HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: weber carb?
Date: 15 Sep 92 19:41:55 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


I've only had one experience with Bosch fuel injection, the AFC unit
on my '77 bus and I can't wait to replace it with a Weber.  The engine
quit on me last winter (on a COLD day) and after two weeks without
being able to figure out why it wouldn't run, had it towed to the
dealer who found ($250 worth of labor later) a short in the FI wiring
harness.  So my main reason for wanting a carb?  To get rid of 75% of
the wires in the engine compartment.  I'll take a mechanical device
over an electronic one any day in my vehicle.  Probably why I drive
air cooled volksies.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mooresm@infonode.ingr.com (S. Mark Moore)
Subject: Re: Two Weird VWs---Help!
Organization: Intergraph Repair Depot, Huntsville, AL
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 02:54:39 GMT

In article <92253.141959IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET> IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET writes:
>are fine. Have had brakes bled and that didn't help. One mechanic
>says it's master cylinder replacement time. Another tells me he can
>adjust them and I'll be fine, for $15.00. (Very tempting to take the
>$15 job and run, but very safe?)
If the pedal feels spongey(sp?) after pumped up, air in the lines.
If the pedal leaks down while your foot is on it, master cylinder time.
If none of the above, go for the adjustment.

>
>paying attention, it shudders itself out of gear. Mechanic #1 tells me that
>the "tranny mounts are loose." The shuddering is ONLY from a stop in first
>gear, so this one I doubt. Mechanic #2 tells me that I need a $300 clutch
>job. Mechanic #3 tells me that he can do an adjustment on the tube that
>the clutch  cable passes thru for $30. Another temptation.
Mechanic #3 sounds like a person to do business with.  I would put my money
there.

>As for the BUS..... only 20,000 miles on rebuilt engine. New starter. New
>battery. However, after driving from Phoenix to Tucson, the red light kept
>going on. Stopped, a nervous wreck, checked the oil, had a COke, and drove
>on again. Red light goes back off. Goes on. Goes off. On the way back from
>Tucson to Phoenix, begins lurching, but only at speed limit. Slowing down
>stops lurching. Could this be caused by the minor valve adjustment
>the kid I bought it from says it needs?   Moot point at the moment,
Yes, possibly. All in the same neighboorhood is valve clearance, condition
of the points, gap of the points, and distributor timing.  Also could
cause the following.

>since it now does not start. Ever since that monsoon rain the other
>weekend. Turns over, sounds fine, just doesn't kick in. I'm assuming this
>is just another one of those dumb Volks. things like moisture in the
>distributor cap.
>
>Jo Namio
s. mark


-- 
S. Mark Moore		(205) 730-5515
mooresm@infonode.ingr.com
!uunet!ingr.com!b25!iptrad!mark
From: GARN@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (GARY NIEMI)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: chop top baja
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:32:11 GMT
 <1992Sep12.165343.2745@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

I once put a covertible baja body onto a sedan pan.  I got seasick driving
the thing, it flexed so much.  Better think of a way to reinforce the
pan before chopping the top off.
-Gary Niemi
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Please recommend a good body shop in St. Louis
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Distribution: stl
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:02:20 GMT

	I need to get the driver side door aligned in my 84 GLI. Has
anybody had any good experiences with any body shops in the St. Louis
are? Please let me know what you recommend ASAP! Having to lift the
door to close it is not only an inconvenience, but it breaks my heart!
	Thanks!!

Christos.
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Fuel injectors
Date: 15 Sep 1992 20:25:00 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep15.152808.22839@ncsu.edu>, javiegas@grad04.math.ncsu.edu (James A. Viegas) writes...
> 
>I have an '87 GTi with 90,000K.  I would like to clean the injectors but don't
>have the proper tool (wrench) to remove it.  Does anyone know where I can get
>this wrench (as described in the Bentley manual).  The VW dealership doesn't 
>sell these tools and the local Bosche dealer wont sell me one (doesn't have one
>to sell).


The tool you need is manufactured by Schley Products... #83400 CIS injector
puller.  It is really nothing more than a pry-bar that holds on to the 
injector and allows you to put leverage on it.  I have one and it makes the
job much easier.  It sells for about $6.00 and is available through 
techtonics, autotech, etc. and directly from Schley.

Schley Products Inc.
5350 E. Hunter Ave.
Anaheim Hills, CA  92807-2053

I have their catalog around here someplace with the phone number in it,
so if anybody needs it let me know and I will dig it up.  The tool is
also available from techtonics, 503/843-2700.

Before you pull the injectors, run to your VW dealer and get a set of (4)
injector o-rings and insulators.  They will want something ridiculous like
$1.60/ea for the o-rings and about $4.00 for the insulators, but you should
replace them all.  (BTW, techtonics sells them cheaper!)  You will need
a large hex-head allen wrench to remove the insulators, and the size 
varies from car to car.  Put some anti-seize on the threads of the new ones,
screw them in while the o-rings are soaking in gasoline.  Put it all back
together and you're set!  

By the way... the injector o-rings are a common cause of small vacuum leaks,
so if you are having idle problems, check them out.  It's also a good time
to check your injectors for the proper spray pattern, especially when nearing
100k miles.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
From: amber@crhc.uiuc.edu (Amber Roy Chowdhury)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Buying an old VW Rabbit
Date: 6 Sep 1992 14:19:14 -0500
Organization: Center for Reliable and High-Performance Computing, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
NNTP-Posting-Host: sirius.crhc.uiuc.edu

borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:

>In rec.autos.vw, eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred) writes:

Just to let you know, I bought the car which was the subject of the original 
post.

>>Replacing the clutch is difficult==expensive, so make sure to add this to
>>the purchase cost of the car, unless you are able to convince yourself that
>>the clutch is ok and it's only the adjustment.  Ditto with the CV joint--
>>I believe new ones cost about $60 at a discount, and if you have it replaced
>>the total bill will be $150-$200.  If one CV joint is bad, probably all
>>need to be repacked and have the boots replaced.

The clutch turned out to be OK. I only needed to adjust the free play.

>On only a very few cars is replacing the clutch more easy (as Saab 99 for
>example).  And there are a lot on which it is more difficult.  I did the
>job on Saturday.

>Is the CV joint bad, or is boot just split?  The mileage is too low for the
>CV joints to be going bad.  While the wheel drive shaft is out of the car,
>it is easy to repack the both CV joints on that shaft.  I wouldn't worry
>about the other one a lot.

The CV joint was OK as well. It was just the rubber boot which needed to be 
replaced.

A new question for those with the knowledge or the time to answer:

A couple of days after buying the car, I noticed a small sticker inside the
driver's side door frame which said something to the effect that the odometer
had been turned to 0 on the car. The mileage from which it had been turned to 0
and the date had been washed out. There was also a warning on the sticker that
federal law prohibited its removal from the car. This would explain the low
miles (56K in 11 years) on the car.

I got a mechanic's opinion on the engine condition and according to him the engine
does not appear to have much more than 50K on it.

I would like to know how I could find out the actual miles on the car. 
(I don't know if the title deed would have this info since I got it from a dealer
and the dealer sent the deed to the credit union financing the car).I could, of
course, go to the credit union and take a look at the deed.

I would also like to know under what circumstances turning the odometer back is legal.
The car works just fine, but I bought it under the impression that it had 56K on it
and not 56K+some unknown quantity. Is the dealer responsible for letting the buyer 
know the actual miles on the car, or at least the fact that the odometer had been turned
back? In particular, can he be sued for fraud?

Thanks for any comments.

Amber

-- 
	Amber Roy Chowdhury           	|  	"I believe that a college should
	5-114 CSL, Univ. of Illinois    |	 be concerned with ideas ... not
	Urbana IL 61801			|	 just your ideas, or my ideas... 
	(217)-244-7168			|        but all ideas" - James Thurber
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Subject: A2 struts in A1 cars? and other strut questions.
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 18:16:19 GMT


Would a strut assembly from an A2 car (Golf) fit on an A1 body (Rabbit)?
I need to change the front shocks/struts and possibly the springs on my
Rabbit, and I thought one cheap way of doing it would be getting a pair off
a low-milage wrecked Golf.  

I'd like to get the etire strut assembly, if possible, because I don't want to
deal with spring compressors.  But if that turns out to be unfeasible, what
brand of new struts should I get?  How do I tell if I need to replace the
springs too?  Right now a small pot-hole or a speed-bump can force the springs
all the way up (= clunk), and the car excessively leans to the side even on
low-speed turns.  I'm not thinking of getting the fancy (and hard) Neuspeed,
Bilstein etc. parts -- just regular springs and shocks.

Thanks.

-Mucit
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: berlage@gmd.de (Thomas Berlage)
Subject: Re: 1.9L ekodiesel
Organization: GMD, Sankt Augustin, Germany
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 06:17:39 GMT

In <1992Sep01.163033.16936@wes.on.ca> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:

>>>	1.9L ekodiesel 	    75 hp @ 4200 rpm	150 Nm @ 2400 rpm

>Another interesting diesel is Audi's direct injection diesel; it produces
>good performance, but I don't have any solid information on it.  Jan?  Eliot?
>Anyone else?

Nobody answered, so I will summarize the information I have collected. I only
have information about the German market.

Audi currently produces two direct injection diesels:

Audi 80 TDI:
4cyl 1.9l 90hp/4000rpm 182Nm/2300rpm

Audi 100 TDI:
5cyl 2.5l 115hp/4000rpm 265Nm/2250rpm

Both have turbo, intercooler, catalytic converter, exhaust return (right word?)
all electronically controlled. Both comply with the German "Toepfer-Norm" of
less than 0.08g particles per km.

The 1.9l engine is about as fast as the 2.0 90hp base engine. The 2.5l engine
in the Audi 100 is faster than the 2.0 115hp engine because of better torque.
Because of direct injection, the fuel efficiency is extremely good. The 1.9l
engine uses 20-30% LESS fuel than the 75hp ecodiesel. Tests indicate around
6l diesel per 100km, and down to 3.5l can be achieved for constant speeds.
That's for a car with a weight of 1270kg without extras.

The 2.5l engine is considerably more expensive than the 1.9l engine, because
it uses motor mounts with electronically controlled damping and a two-phase
extra-high-pressure injection process. It is reported to be more quiet,
although the 1.9 recently got an extra motor encapsulation. Tests also
mention a noticeable increase in torque above 2000rpm, while the 1.9's torque
curve is more even.

The 1.9l engine is actually designed in Wolfsburg by VW. It is rumoured to be
available in the Passat and Golf/Vento in the next year, probably when VW is
able to keep up with the demand (delivery time currently is twice as long as
for other models). The price in Germany is about 10% higher for the 1.9TDI
than for the base engine. 

Thomas Berlage (berlage@gmd.de)
GMD (German National Research Center for Computer Science)
P.O. Box 1316, 5205 Sankt Augustin 1, Germany
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov (mike)
Subject: Re: chop top baja
Organization: Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Company
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 16:53:43 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.213555.13719@schbbs.mot.com> RXJF20@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Douglas Shade) writes:
>I want to cut the top off my baja, but am concerned with the
>pan flexing...
>
>Anyone out there with some experience in this major mod?  Any
>proven ideas for making the pan more rigid? Cheaply?

For what it's worth, when I vacationed down in Cozumel I saw bunches
of Mexican VW bugs, all with the tops cut off for rental to the tourists.
I didn't see any reinforcement of the chassis, and they sure looked like
they were originally sedans.  Of course, only the tourists drove them,
so maybe it didn't matter ;-).  I imagine a Baja bug has more stringent
strength requirements.

Mike
 
-- 
******************************** mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov *****
* Michael L. Ross/C33 | Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Co.   *
* Robotics Department | 2400 Nasa Rd. 1, Houston, TX 77062    *
*(713)333-7094 voice,(713)333-7201 fax*************************
From: justin@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (Justin Davila)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: HELP!! Life-or-death dilemma concerning fate of Sq'back!
Date: 10 Sep 92 00:51:29 GMT
Organization: Cybernet BBS, Boca Raton, Florida


        Ladies and gentlemen, I am quite suddenly faced with a most 
solemn decision.  It is my practice to take my VW to the shop for a 
"professional" tune up about one time in four.  My mechanic, a quite 
trustworthy fellow, has informed me that my Type III has a loose 
cylinder.  The only way to find out if it's repairable at all is to open 
her up (read:$350) and he gives me a 50/50 chance of her being repairable 
after she's opened up.  I know he loves VWs, and I wish he seemed more 
optomistic.  He started talking about a Duster station wagon of his that 
he could set me up with, but I told him I needed some time.  At least I 
think it was a Duster; I was overcome with grief.  I am a most poor 
college student, and we might as well be talking about my entire life 
savings here.  I'm completely distraught.

        I call upon you fellow brotherhood members for advice.  Please 
contact me as soon as possible, as the matter is rather pressing.  And
please save condolences until after the fact.  Thank you, kind people.

Justin.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: weber carb?
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 16:52:57 GMT

Just curious, why would anyone want to replace a Bosch fuel-injection system with
a carbureator made by anybody?   I have had nothing but excellent performance and
zero maintenance from my K-Ketronic equipped VW's (3 in all).  Every carbureated
vehicle I have owned in the past (notice I said "past") was a real pain to keep tuned
and repaired.

Please enlighten me.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Re: rabbit doesn't know when to stop
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 22:25:43 GMT


Dieseling can be caused by a few things - one is by having a very high
compression ratio (1:22) and using this smelly, slimey fuel.  Hopefully
this isn't your problem because it's very hard to get rid of....:-)

Another cause can be carbon build up in the cylinders.  How hard do you
drive the car?  If not that hard, this is a good possibility.  There might
be some fuel additives that help get rid of the carbon, or you could try
a few tanks fulls of some super octane fuel (more resistent to burning)
and get the tach up into the 5-6k rpm range more often.

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: CV joints 
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 16:54:36 GMT

I agree with the Dan's on CV joints.  

Locally I get two boots done for about $80/axle at an independent VW shop.  This guy is
really good and very responsive.   As far as failure following a torn boot, it doesn't
happen instantly, but waiting for more than 1000 miles is asking for trouble.  I did, it went.

An interesting thing happened on our '79 Rabbit when my son was driving.  He said "Dad, I see
this big cloud of white smoke going out behind, but only when I'm going over 45 mph!   It
doesn't smoke below 45 mph no matter how I accelerate."   The diagnosis --- the boot on the
inboard CV joint on the passenger side had just split and it was throwing the grease onto the
exhaust manifold when the car reached 45 mph.  

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Curt.Miller@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Curt Miller)
Subject: weber carb?
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 01:58:36 GMT

	I have a 1980 Plymouth Horizon TC3 with the VW 1.7 engine
and am looking to improve the performance.  I am looking at putting
the webber downdraft carb on that is sold through Red Lion as a 
carb-manifold set.  I was wondering if anyone has had any experience 
with this setup.  I was also debating putting on a header that is 
available through J.C. Wittney.  If anyone has any comments on 
these components please mail me.

					UCSKJM@UCS.UWPLATT.EDU
					UCSKJM@UWPLATT.BITNET
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: bhala@cs.utexas.edu (Bhalchandra Ghatate)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: OXYS Light still on
Date: 10 Sep 1992 12:56:47 -0500
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
NNTP-Posting-Host: tokio.cs.utexas.edu


	I posted a couple of days ago about the
OXYs light which has lit up.  Got a lot of replies
telling me to reset it and how to.
	I tried to reset it but it doen't go off.
This is just about 12000 miles after it was last
fully serviced.
	Can there be any other reason for the light 
to go on and do I need to worry about it.

Thanks for the help in advance.
bhala

bhala@cs.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Subject: Re: Battery/Charging System Problems?
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 15 Sep 92 06:58:17 CDT

In article <5535@dove.nist.gov> keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
>
>This morning when i went out to start my car it wouldn't start.  I got in
>and the dome light was brown, and the radio would not come on.  Then at lunch
>time (the same day) i went out to the car and the same conditions existed 
>except the interior light was a little brighter.  Each time (this morning and
>at lunch time) i was able to start the car immediately after connecting the 
>jumper cables to another car battery.  This problem happened once about a month
>ago with the same results, although until today the problem hadn't reoccured.
>
>
>Any ideas what might be happening?
>

   The first thing to determine is, battery dead or alternator not charging.
       1. Give your battery a nice slow charge. The Bentley manual has values
       for voltage, measure across the terminals with a volt-meter. As I 
       remember 12.5 or over indicates good. Next check the specific gravity
       of the battery. If that all turns out good go to step 2.

       2. Turn on the car, the battery should be charged. measure the voltage
       between the terminals of the battery. If it shows between 13.2 and 13.9
       you are charging and I am lost. If it is showing less than 13.2 you have]
       an alternator problem. Do not just assume you have to replace the alt.
       On the back of the alternator is the voltage regulator. It is held in
       place by two phillips screws. Remove it, be careful when you remove the
       back screw, there is a strap onder the screw that sometimes breaks. 
       If the ground strap is fractured or broken reinforce and resolder. Check
       the brushes, if memory serves me corrctly there should be at least 5 mm
       left, 20 mm is new.Also check that you are getting battery voltage to
       the exciter, there is a skinney blue(I think) wire that runs from your
       battery to the alt. there is a diode inline that dometimes goes funky,
       check it with a voltmeter.    
   Since your problem is intermitant, tighten all fasteners. Remove the battery
   cables, clean with a wire brush and coat with a suitable conductive anti-
   oxidant.

I know more but don't have my reference library.

Robert
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: 1971 VW distributor
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 03:48:04 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <2111@deadmin.ucsd.edu>, zirk@celece.ucsd.edu (Karin Zirk) writes:
> I have a 1971 VW Van with a bug engine
> 1600 bored to 1776  (new engine - hasn't
> even been started yet).  I currently
> have a combination distributor (mechanical/vacuum).
> 
> Everyone keeps telling me
> to get a straight mechanical 09 distributor.
> 
> I'm looking for opinions. Yes/No and why or why

Well, the best reason I can think of is that a 1776 will not run well unless
you use dual carbs (or a big single).  So, if you use dual carbs, there will be
no easy way to get sufficient vacuum to operate the distributer.  Besides, the
009 distributer will give better performance.

> not.  Also, will I still be able to get
> my car smogged with the 09?

Not if your laws require original equipment.  This really stinks, since a 1776
with dual Kadrons will give better performance AND better mileage (when tuned
right).

> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Karin

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: brophy@med.unc.edu (J. Jon Brophy)
Subject: Saw the eurovan.. question on design
Originator: brophy@jasper
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 19:33:50 GMT


I saw the Eurovan yesterday at the local dealer.  After going over
it lightly, the questions I have are the need for reflective insulation
along the firewall of the engine compartment.  Are the tolerances going
to hold up as this beast ages?  By that I am asking if the heat
dissipation ofthe engine is really going to affect the car after a few
years.

Also the rear bumper seems low to the ground.  Great for lifting things
in and out... awful for a rear tap from some other driver or a
backup type accident.....

Other than that I can't wait to hear about handling...
at 20K it better stack up well....

JJB