HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wood-smithc@vaxb.gbus.virginia.edu (Chrissi Wood-Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Discus Delight and the Turkey Heart Debate
Date: 16 Oct 92 14:50:45 GMT
Organization: Darden Center, University of Virginia

In article <67516@cup.portal.com> PLai@cup.portal.com (Patrick L Faith) writes:
>From: PLai@cup.portal.com (Patrick L Faith)
>Subject: (F) Discus Delight and the Turkey Heart Debate
>Date: Sat, 10 Oct 92 22:09:18 PDT

>Marc Weiss (a major discus seller/breeder) wrote a series of article
>in Aquarium Fish about Discuss.  In one of these articles he wrote:

>  Those who are making these claims have come out with competing
>  turkey heart diets that, for me, are too polluting and fatty to 
>  even consider.

>What I assume he is alluding to is Bay Brans Discus Delight (recommended
I'm curious too. I feed Jack Watley's Discus Food and was going to try 
discus delight , but I'd like to know what I'm giving my "kids".  The Jack 
Watley food has beef heart as #1 ingredient.  I would think that would be 
more fattening? Wouldn't you???
From: jward@hydra.acs.uci.edu (John Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M]Clownfish ID
Date: 16 Oct 92 04:43:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.2ADE487D.8998
Organization: University of California, Irvine

In article <1992Oct15.160756.10673@javelin.sim.es.com> krogers@javelin.sim.es.com writes:
>jjschm@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
>>  I was so intrigued that I'm considering buying the lot
>>(6, 2") and setting up a breeding tank.  If anyone could give me a
>>better background on these fish or any breeding info on them I would
>>appreciate it.
>
[lots useful text on maroon clowns nuked]
>As for breeding - hah.  Yeah, there are a few people who have bred
>these in captivity.  Unless you do some serious research first and
>have gobs of time on your hands plus room for green water, rotifer and
>Artemia culture you can forget it.  Breeding things marine is utterly
>unlike freshwater fish; discus and tetras are trivial compared to even
>the easiest marine fish which are clowns and seahorses.  Just forming
>a pair that will spawn if far from a given.  And getting them to spawn
>is trivial compared to raising the larvae to the juvenile stage.  If
>you want to see what's involved read:
>
>Marine Aquarium Handbook, 2ed, Moe  (new edition just came out)
>
>Reproduction in Reeffishes, Thresher  (out of print, check a library)
>
>Anemonefishes, Allen  (long out of print but a library may have a copy)

Allen's new book on Damsel Fishes covers Anemonefishes and has great
pictures of the different stages of the breeding process.

>Plankton Culture Manual, Hoff & somebody (sold by Florida Aqua Farm)
>
>In addition there are a bunch of scientific marine biology journals
>that are well worth reading.  I don't have a compiled bibliography
>though.  There is the occasional article in the hobby rags.  One came
>out about a year ago from a guy on the Net (Richard Brosseau) who was
>getting some A. ocellaris to juvenile stage on just Artemia nauplii.
>You should check out this article.  It was in FAMA a while back - I
>can't tell you which issue from here at work.

I have been basically following the approach Richard reported in the
articles.  While I have nowhere near commercial success, it has been
successful and satisfying.

>The bottom line is if you aren't seriously dedicated you can forget
>the breeding apsect.  If you are on the lunatic fringe (like I am) you
>go for it.  Be prepared for disappointment after disappointment.

I must qualify in the lunatic fringe too!  Don't expect clowns to spawn
in a community tank and don't expect to rear huge numbers of fry with a
brine shrimp only approach.  If you can handle moderate success with
the down side, go for it!

>-- 
>Keith Rogers
>krogers@javelin.sim.es.com

--
John Ward    UC Irvine, Department of Redundancy Department
email: jward@uci.edu or jward@uci.bitnet
     "Time flies like an eagle.  Fruit flies like a banana."
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rabbits@byron.u.washington.edu (Adolf Maas)
Subject: fishtank for sale
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:28:01 GMT


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Single Species Tanks
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 10:41:10 GMT

In article <1992Oct10.080801.20704@wam.umd.edu> dougo@wam.umd.edu (Douglas Bruce Olson) writes:
>	No! I don't think you understood. It's not the fish as they appear
>in a tank, just that all fish appear better than the ones that you have.

Really?  I have not found it to be true.  The fish I have surpass most
things I see at the stores, even the fish that I am not maintaining with
as much care as I devote to the "interesting" species.   A fish that may
have looked drab in the dealer tank looks vibrant and healthy in my tank.

For instance, I bought a trio of Lemon tetras for my office tank.  They
looked rather drab and simple in the store.  After a few weeks in my tank
they were happy, beautiful looking fish -- their eyes turned red, their fin
margins turned jet black, the bodies turned from frab silver to a shade of
lemon-yellow.  Within months I had tetra fry swimming all over the tank.
Much the same had happened to a bunch of flame tetras I bought a year
earlier -- a drab, faded fish turned into a pretty, colourful prolific
breeder.

>Call it the "I gotta have that new fish" syndrome.

I know that "syndrome" full well.  I keep and breed over 20 species of fish.
However, the "I gotta have" "syndrome" drives me to ward the new, unusual,
more difficult or more rare species, very few of which are better looking
than the easy fish I have had for many years.  

>	I like albinos! I LOVE albinos.

Some people like paintings of Elvis on velvet and think Jerry Lewis is
funny.

>	It's the thought of something you CAN'T have. It just naturally 
>looks better.

You can easily have it if you get yourself a salt water tank.  Whether you
should have them is another matter all together.  I don't think people who
are not planning to breed and re-distribute the fish should be allowed to
have wild-caught fish.  
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Too much of a good thing?
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 12:54:03 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I have a 110 gallon tank with a large bubble disk and a bubble wand in the back.
The tank really gets airated.  Can I be overdoing it?  I wonder if the water
is getting churned around to such a degree that it is stressful to fish.
(I also have a Fluval 403).  A large Whisper filter drives the bubble wand
and disk. Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] What's the black stuff on (plastic) plants?
From: <KJH6@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 13:58:15 EDT
Organization: Penn State University

  At the risk of being buried under "you idiot!" comments, and having not
seen it in the FAQ...

  I have a 10-gallon tank with a variety of small fish in it and a trio of
(very healthy) angels.  It's been running with no problem since March of
this year, but was moved about six weeks ago and has been doing well in its
new location.

  I have a couple of plastic plants in it which seem to get some kind of
brown/black algae on the tips/edges of their leaves after being in the tank
for a month or two.  I usually remove the offending plant and rinse the goo
off of it, which seems to straighten things out for another month or two.
This has gone on since I first got the tank.

  My question is: What is this stuff?  Is it "bad" or just a nusiance?  Is
there anything that would eat this?  I have a Pleco and an "algae eater", but
they both seem to ignore it.

  On another tack, does anyone in net.land have any experience with having
freshwater crabs in their tanks?  Do they attack small fish?  I've also heard
that they like to climb out and go exploring.  I'd be interested to hear
comments on this as well.

  Thanks for your help!

                                            - Ken Hoover
--
ken@psuedvax.psu.edu ken@psuedvax.BITNET kjh6@psuvm.psu.edu kjh62psuvm.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sloan@cis.uab.edu (Kenneth Sloan)
Subject: Re: [F] Plants and UGF questions
Keywords: plants, ugf
Organization: CIS, University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 14:53:20 GMT

In article <1992Oct15.180234.24940@mksol.dseg.ti.com> rloyd@mksol.dseg.ti.com (robert e loyd) writes:
>I looking for information (pro and con) about adding plants to
>a 30 gal. tall aquarium that currently uses a UGF. 


Lots of gravel (say, 3" to 5").

Use small plastic pots.

Leave a few plant-free zones (for example, the front-center) where the
gravel layer is thinner, and do virtually all of your gravle vacuuming
there.  I redistribute the gravel from this area back to the lanted
areas on every water change (suck up with the siphon, with the detritus
removed and the gravel lifted slightly so that you can drop the gravel
back in another area.  Keep the unplanted gravel scrupulously clean, and
don't worry about cleaning the gravel in planted areas.  (hey!  it works
for me...)

Patience.

-- 
Kenneth Sloan                   Computer and Information Sciences
sloan@cis.uab.edu               University of Alabama at Birmingham
(205) 934-2213                  115A Campbell Hall, UAB Station 
(205) 934-5473 FAX              Birmingham, AL 35294-1170
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Time to clean the gravel???
Date: 9 Oct 92 18:43:10 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Patience is the key.  Wait for the nitrites to drop before adding more fish.
And don't add all the ones you want (or can house) at once!  Try purchasing
only one large fish or a small school per week. Ammonia and nitrites are not
the only "fears" in loading a tank too fast.  You don't want a visitation
by every algae in the book and supplying excess nutients (aka more fish)
is a great way to do this.

You can start the plants now.  Hope you have good lighting: at least two
flourescent, full specturum bulbs.  Good luck!

     mark

In article <7104@transfer.stratus.com>, scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
> 
> 
> Well, it's been exactly one month since I set up my 29 gallon tank. The cycling  
         [.....]

 I am getting psyched to go pick out some more fish and start  
> some plants, but want those nitrites to drop first.
> --
> **********************************************************
> Scott Colbath
> Stratus Computer
> Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
> Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
> **********************************************************
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Subject: Re: (F) H2O test kits.
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 14:31:21 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.024802.2471@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu> weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley) writes:
>Hi folks,
>
>	I was wondering what would the net reccomend, in terms
>of a good low cost, fairly comprehensive H20 test kit. 

I kind of like the TetraTest Laborett kit which sells for about US$11
by mail order.  It contains tests for ammonia, nitrite, KH, GH, and
pH.  As I've mentioned in a previous posting, I'm not crazy about the
pH kit, but the rest of the kits seem to be good, and at the price
it's hard to beat.


-- 
rick clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) | Ban Handguns.
           (CIS 70272,3270)            |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph115.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Question about people who have questions about algae problems [F]
Organization: Bell Northern Research Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1992 19:17:00 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.165929.2116@en.ecn.purdue.edu> wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:
>I notice every now and then someone comes out with a post describing some sort
>of algae problem in their freshwater tank.
[deleted stuff...]
>I always respond the same way, "Do you have a pleco?" (curse...ha!).

A plecostomus is not always the answer.  Especially if you have the
suspended algae (pea soup) that the latest poster was complaining
about.

Algae need food and light.  The food source may be a dirty tank, plant
fertilizers you add, or even nutrient-rich water from the tap.  You
need to identify the source and eliminate it.

-Shaji.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7982 alt.aquaria:5330
From: jon@apollo.mcl.bdm.com (Jon Humphreys)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: De-Ionizers needed for saltwater?
Date: 13 Oct 92 18:17:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.lsnpr5f
Organization: BDM International, Inc.

During a recent talk with a local petstore owner who specializes in reeftanks,
the subject of water changes came up.  He adamently assured me that, with a 
reeftank (corals and inverts), water added to replace evaporation HAD to be
run through a deionizer to eliminate metals, silicates, and various trace
elements.  He wanted to sell me one for $200 (I didn't buy it).  This
seems contrary to what Moe said in his Reference, and I can't imagine every
reef tank owner spending $200 on a deionizer.  Are they really needed?
Do those of you who already have or have had reef tanks do anything besides
declorinate your water before adding salt?

Thanks for help!

jon
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: jastewar@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James R Stewart)
Subject: Re: [M] Invert Questions
Summary: Corallimorphs and tubastrea
Keywords: Coralliomorphs
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 18:36:20 GMT

Coralliomorphs are similar to anemones, they have no skeleton like
hard corals.  They need similar habitats to tropical anemones,
good lighting.  They don't really need to be fed, they farm algae,
and grow happily and reproduce on ocassion.  If your tank is moderately
healthy, they will grow very well for you.  Be advised, 'giant' 
mushrooms (what Coralliomorphs are called here) can get big.  I have one 
in my tank that's 18" accross, and has eaten two fish, including one 
lion fish (it almost died, but somehow recovered from the sting.)  
The giant ones are a light blue, and lood pretty darn big in the
store, but once they're in good light and get adjusted, they
spread out and look like a frisbee or a plate.  Ordinary mushrooms
don't get so big, a few inches at the most.  They aren't hostile to other
sessile inverts.  They do have tentacles, white ones that come out
of the central mouth when feeding (once they've caught a fish by englobing
it, the tentacles paralyze.)

Tubastrea is a bit trickier, it needs dark, or very close to it,and
wants to be hand-fed (since it does not photosynthesize.)  I do not
own any, as I don't have the time to feed them daily.  Someone with
more experience with them can tell you more.  To get them to come out
and be fed, take a bit of (frozen, but now thawed) shrimp, hold it in 
front of the polyps and squeeze it.  They'll smell the juice, and probably
come out.  Then, you can feed _each_ polyp a bit 'o meat.

Best of luck.
                                       -James Stewart
                                        Perhaps-soon-to-be
                                        Collenerate-aquaculturist.

-- 
O, I have bought the mansion of a love,
But not possessed it; and though I am sold,
Not yet enjoyed.  So tedious is this day
As is the night before some festival
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 16:48:45 GMT

Darin Cowan (root) (cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org) wrote:
: Jim Pinkelman <James.K.Pinkelman.1@nd.edu> writes:
: 
: > Athough this is not a real acquarium question . . .
: > 
: > Does anyone know what the fastest fish in the ocean is?
: > 
: > Thanks
: 
: I believe that it is the sailfish or the marlin, but I am not certain.
: Apparently they have been clocked at 60 knots.  If I can find the
: reference, I'll post it.

Right you are.  I finally checked _The Living Planet_ as promised -
the sailfish has been clocked at 110 km/h over short stretches
(around 66mph, for us 'Mericans!).  Faster than a cheetah, btw.
Fish in the tuna/marlin family are almost "perfectly" tuned for
fast swimming.  In addition to pointed snouts (which marlins
take to an extreme), the eyes are recessed flat against the head,
there are slots for fins to be recessed into when cruising, and
rough scales just behind the apex of the body act as "spoilers",
creating turbulance behind the fish and reducing drag.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: [f] cycling w/ live r
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 00:45:50 GMT

In article <199212.4149.10270@dosgate> "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com> writes:
>
>Have I missed anything that could help?
YES!
Tagging this posting with M instead of f, because it's a marine posting!

Not trying to be mean here, but this was the first time ever my
kill file was 'duped.'
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Too much of a good thing?  (No. 2)
Date: 13 Oct 92 21:18:44 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

It would be better for the fish to be consistent.  Put the lights
on a timer for about 12 hours a day.  I have a tank that comes on
at 11 in the morning and goes off at 11 that night.  Most common
fish don't really care what the lighting situation is, for plants
it's another story.

   mark


In article <1992Oct13.131554.37754@watson.ibm.com>, cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
> 
> My 110 gallon has 4 bright flourescent lights.  Can such a bright lighting 
> system do "harm" to the fish (community tank).   Is it too bright?
> 
> When I go to work for the day, I leave the lights off.  The tank only 
> gets dim light from a window across the room.  Would it be better
> for the fish if I left 2 of the floursecent lights on all day while
> I was at work, or is the dim light from across the room sufficient?
> Thanks.
> 
> 
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8064 sci.aquaria:1453
From: g580785c@edinboro.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Brine shrimp breeding?
Date: 16 Oct 92 03:17:02 GMT
Organization: Edinboro University of Pennsylvania

If you want a real challenge buy an Oscar and then raise feeder
fish for him.  The best to use for breeding purposes are Guppies
or Black Mollies, they're always breeding.  I had an Oscar, a
Red Tiger Oscar, and I raised him until he was 10 inches long. 
If you've never seen an almost full grown Oscar chase and
swallow a 2 inch gold fish, you're missing out.  I know it
sounds cruel but it is also pretty wild to watch.  Try it out.
                                            
					J.C.
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Date: 16 Oct 92 13:55:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <wong.719201726@sfu.ca> wong@fraser.sfu.ca (Sam S. Wong) writes:
>Keeping on topic with fast fish, what tropical fish do most aquarists have
>most troubles catching with or without hiding areas?
> 
>Out of all the fish I raised, I had lots of problems catching zebra danios
>with one net.
> 
>African chichilds give me the most problems when my tanks are filled with 
Pet peeve - 'cichlids'
>caves.

Africans and caves. Diamond tetras for bare tanks. Even ones that were
kept under 70F for who knows how long are real irritating to try to catch -
they understand up and down, back and forth *no problem.* Every time I've
tried to move those fish I've had to drain the tank way down then net them.
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wong@fraser.sfu.ca (Sam S. Wong)
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 02:15:26 GMT

Keeping on topic with fast fish, what tropical fish do most aquarists have
most troubles catching with or without hiding areas?
 
Out of all the fish I raised, I had lots of problems catching zebra danios
with one net.
 
African chichilds give me the most problems when my tanks are filled with 
caves.
From: Alan_Schianni@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Schianni)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Fish won't eat
Date: 14 Oct 92 04:01:31 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

I just moved my medium sized piranha into a seasoned 33-g tank and it hasn't
eaten in three days.  The ph- level is 6.7, the nitrates are low and there is
no ammonia present.  The move was from a 10-g to 33-g and am wondering if
this is normal and when should I expect him to eat again.  He was a very
hardy eater prior to the move.  Should I be worried?  What can I do?

Thanks,
Alan
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Saturday, 10 Oct 1992 20:30:28 EDT
From: <IO20614@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Time to clean the gravel???

In article <7104@transfer.stratus.com>, scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott
Colbath) says:
>
>Well, it's been exactly one month since I set up my 29 gallon tank. The
>cycling
>





                                          nitrites rise way up to the hazardous
>level on the chart. Does this sound like a normal cycling of a tank? Should I
>clean the gravel and do a 10% or more water change? I am thinking it's about
>time for that. I am getting psyched to go pick out some more fish and start
>some plants, but want those nitrites to drop first.
>--
As a rule, I never change water until NO2- hits zero, reasoning that you don't
grow NO2- consuming bacteria by depriving them of their food; ie changing water
 at this stage will likely slow the cycling process.  I'd imagine that the fish
 you've got in there now will not die (as someone else opined) as long as cycli
ng continues and nitrite eventually zeros (prolonged exposure is what's really
detrimental...)  I'd go slow on the new fish, realizing that your tank will con
tinue to build up a variety of bacterial and algal flora over the next several
months, gradually increasing its ability to absorb and reduce waste.  Clean you
r gravel when you start doing (weekly!) water changes, get a good power filter
if you don't have one, DON'T OVERFEED, and enjoy your fish.
Best of luck!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Tank Decor, was Re: Single Species Tanks
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 05:12:58 GMT

In article <1992Oct13.084823.14519@newstand.syr.edu> jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed) writes:
>graceful goldfish

Yeah.  Right.   And a painting of Elvis on velvet as a background for it
all.  Don't forget the blinking electric lights.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria