HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale Delta V question
Date: 17 Nov 92 12:44:32 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, vvkmj@sven.lerc.nasa.gov (Keith Jackson) writes:
>build it up.  The guys at the shop don't know what to do with the
>little pulley wheel just above where the brakes will go.

Take it off and use a regular cable cable stop in the back.  The front
may be a little trickier.  If you do want to set it up with the "Force
40" braking, you'll need a piece from Cannondale that clamps the end
of the wire from one cantilever (over the pulley) to the end of the
housing that goes toward the other cantilever...forget that, you'll
have to find one of these to see how its done.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney)
Subject: Re: CHANGING TO STI??????
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 02:44:46 GMT

naru@eng.umd.edu (Naruhisa Takashima) writes:
: Also, looking
: at the catalog for '93 Cannondales, the 105 STI will have 8spd cassetes.
: So looks like, even though you might have 105, you'll still need 
: new cassetes and derailer.

While you _may_ need a new freewheel/cassette and/or a new derailleur, I
would not bet on it.  I am currently using Ultegra STI shifters with an
officially approved Ultegra rear derailleur, a Campy Super Record front
derailleur, 7-speed Sachs Aris, 8-speed Dura-Ace cassette, and 7-speed
Suntour AP+ freewheels (on different wheels, naturally).  The shifting
is fine on all these freewheels, although I will admit that it is
crispest on the Dura-Ace.  Both the Sachs and Suntour freewheels index
properly for me with the STI.  The Super Record front derailleur works
fine as long as the cable is clamped on the "wrong" side of the clamping
bolt (this increases the derailleur's movement for a give amount of
cable travel).

I would start by buying the shifters and trying them with your current
105 derailleurs and cogs.  I suspect they'll work fine.  If you have
problems, start with the rear derailleur.  Since it indexes on the Sachs
and Suntour, I've got to believe it'll work with the 105 cassette.

Harry Phinney   harry@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
From: bobf@drutx.ATT.COM (FormhalsR)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Summary: REAL (TM) CYCLISTS
Date: 19 Nov 92 18:41:01 GMT
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO

> In article <Bxw0GK.G2z@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
> (Terry Thiel) writes:
> 
>    My borthers new Colango (The $1200 one with Dura-Ace STI) has no pump
>    peg.  How do people secure pumps to their road bikes so they don't


HMMMMM,  perhaps this is a REAL (TM) BIKE that is to be ridden by
a REAL (TM) CYCLIST?  And as any of us wannabes knows, REAL CYCLISTS
don't need pumps, prefering to blow up their tires to a perfect
120 lbs. with one-two breaths from the mouth.

BTW small punctures would naturally be plugged by a small strategically
incorporated bit of spit, sort of natural Slime :-)

Bob F,  Denver, CO
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper)
Subject: Re: chain pins
Organization: University of Waterloo Math Faculty Computing Facility, Ontario.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 14:37:14 GMT

In article <1eekejINN9fm@master.cs.rose-hulman.edu> fleminpm@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Paul M Fleming) writes:
>
>	The guy is for real.. I used to work at a bicycle shop and the  
>Shimano chains do require new pins EVERYTIME.. It is possible to get away  
>without a new one each time but it isn't recommended. The hyperglide  
>system is pretty high tech stuff and the spacing of the chain and  
>sprockets is very important. Therefore, to reduce the possibility of error  
>Shimano made it factory procedure to replace the entire pin each time one  
>is removed.
>		Paul

So, what wonderful advances bicycle technology has made.  Have we now
traded cotter pins (anybody remember them?) for non-reusable chain
pins?

Adrian.
arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: Michel Goudeseune <marcelg@zooid.guild.org>
Subject: Re: Glasses mounted rear-view
Organization: ZOOiD BBS
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 02:26:39 GMT

dkw@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (David Wittenberg) writes:
>
>I prefer the helment mounted version, but they seem to only be
>available for the left side (for riding on the right.)  When I've been
>in places where they ride on the left, I've used a glasses mount,
>which works pretty well.

The Third Eye Pro helmet-mounted mirror can be adjusted for use on either side
of the helmet.  The main ball joint is glued to the helmet (no velcro), and
the forward ball joint is turned slightly depending on how the "shaft" is
oriented.  It can also be taken apart completely for servicing, and to
re-tighten the ball joints.

Michel
marcelg@zooid.guild.org
From: SteveSgt@cup.portal.com (Steven Eugene Sergeant)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Hub Generator Sources?
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 10:35:55 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

For over fifteen years I have heard rumors of integrated hub-generators
for bicycles.  I have never seen such a thing but I would really be
enthusiastic about applying such a thing to a HBL system for and HPV
design I'm working on.

Does anyone know of a current source for such a thing.  Are they presently
being manufactured anywhere in the world?

[Please respond in netnews, or to the E-Mail address below.]

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Steve Sergeant            Internet:  SteveSgt@torrent.sj.ca.us
3266 Tulipwood Ln.           Radio:  KC6ZKT [@N0ARY.#NOCAL.US.NA]
San Jose, CA  95132          GEnie:  STEVSERGEANT
(408) 945-0395                 FAX:  (408) 945-0543
Audio Engineering, Music, Macintosh, Bicycles, Backcountry, Japan
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: alanf@cs.monash.edu.au (Alan Grant Finlay)
Subject: Re: Out of Control Front wheel
Organization: Computer Science, Monash University, Australia
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 01:24:57 GMT

oscar@crackle.Berkeley.EDU (Oscar DeMartino) writes:

>A question of balance --

>I have a touring bike that is about 10 years old.  I have never
>been able to ride it with no hands.  I remove my hands from the
>bar and the front wheel starts to wobble.  The faster I am going
>it takes to get out of control but never more than 30-40 yards,
>3-4 seconds.

>Any thoughts why the wobble - and any solutions????????????

I was just about to ask a similar quesion myself.  In my case the
wobble builds up slowly, but only when coasting and at >15mph with
no hands.

It seems to me this must be a case of incipient "wheel shimmy".
If this is the case then it is cause for concern since it could happen
even without the damping effect of hands on the handlebars, and cause
a spill.

Wheel shimmy is generally due to:
1) Unbalanced load, especially on front wheel paniers.
2) Unbalanced spoke tension and/or misaligned wheel.
3) Loose headset bearings.
4) Loose wheel bearings.
5) Hub axle not aligned properly - very rare - hub manufacturing defect.
6) Misaligned frame, especially bent front forks as this is more likely than
   other frame damage.

My question is, is there a speed above which all bikes are likely to develop
such resonances with no hands on the handlebars?

,-------Alan Finlay, email: alanf@bruce.cs.monash.edu.au, phone: (03)565-5225.
|	Victorian Centre for Image Processing and Graphics,
|	Monash University, CLAYTON 3168, Australia.
|
`-------(Premature optimisation is the root of all evil.)
From: jmyers@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM (Jonathan E Myers)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Halogen vs Incandescent & Gates Cyclon batteries
Date: 20 Nov 92 17:45:58 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Nov19.220935.11513@den.mmc.com> sims@possum.den.mmc.com (John Sims) writes:
>For my homebrew setup, I used a Sylvania _plastic_ halogen car
>leadlight, which has a high beam of 35 watts and a low beam with
>somewhat fewer watts.  

What is the model or Part number of this Sylvania halogen light?  How long does 
your light/battery combination last?  

I am about to upgrade to a higher power batter and would be interested in more
light power also.  I have a 35W  glass light that is not halogen that I was going
to use, but plastic would be much better.
Thanks.

			Jon Myers
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: geoffo@spectrum.cs.unsw.oz.au (Geoff Oakley)
Subject: Re: Trailer with infant and toddler
Organization: none
	<1992Nov11.140055.15315@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 04:24:17 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.134521.12093@waikato.ac.nz>, waldrond@waikato.ac.nz writes...

   Has anyone successfully hauled 2 children in a Burley trailer when the
   younger one is only 3 months old?   We have a 3 month old and a 2 year old
   and I'm looking for a way to put them in there, so that they'll both
   be comfortable. When we had only one 3 month old, we just put her in the
   car safety seat and strapped the car safety seat inside the trailer. 
   There isn't enough room for the car safety seat and the 2 year old in the
   trailer. The 3 month old can't sit up by herself, so she needs some
   support.  What's the solution?


In article <1992Nov11.140055.15315@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com> fike@chezp.enet.dec.com  writes:

	   Leave her with a sitter. Seriously, there's little or no suspension
   or shock absorbing capability in a trailer and a baby that young doesn't have
   the muscle needed to hold their head/neck properly to absorb minor road impact,
   so unless you're talking about a slooowwww easy ride around the block, Leave
   the child home until she's at least toddling age (1yr +). A mind is a terrible
   thing to waste (or knock the hell out of!).


I think that is a bit extreme.  Sure, take it easy, but if the child
is uncomfortable, they will let you know.

Our daughter is 6 months.  At 3 months I tried her in a child-seat on
my rear rack.  She could not support herself, and was mostly held up
by the safety harness.  Our first ride was very traumatic (for me),
the slightest bump had her crying even though I was riding very
slowly.

About 6 weeks later (4.5 months) we tried again.  Since then, she has
been fine, up to an hour at a stretch, on bitumen and on dirt (taken
gently).  She mostly goes to sleep after about 15 minutes.

geoff o
--

	       geoffo@cse.unsw.edu.au
Geoff Oakley:  CS & E, UNSW, PO Box 1, Kensington, NSW 2033, Australia
	       Phone: +61 2 697 4043	Fax: +61 2 313 7987
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: javier@cs.toronto.edu (Javier Pinto)
Subject: 126mm --> 130mm
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:03:57 GMT


A couple of times the topic of modifying a road frame to take 130mm hubs
instead of 126 has been discussed. Needless to say, at the time I did not
pay attention to the discussion. Now, I am considering doing the same thing
to my SL frame. Did anybody make a summary of that discussion? If so, i'd
like to get a copy. 

Anyways, i'd like to know if there are any disadvantages to using 130mm
wheels in a 126mm frame by just pushing the wheel in.

Thanks.


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: coleman@rocky.cs.ucla.edu (Mike Coleman)
Subject: Re: Spokes Breaking on Rear MTB Wheel
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 15:37:55 GMT

gustilo@pop-server.upenn.edu writes about rear wheel spokes breaking.


I had this problem, too, on my "city" bike.  My wheel was not noticeably out
of true, but I suppose that uneven tension could be part of the problem.  I
weigh about 225, which could also be it.  In any case, I solved the problem by
buying a 40-spoke touring wheel from Nashbar.  I don't know whether Nashbar
wheels are supposed to be any good, but they're a hell of a lot better than
the original wheels.  No problems since.

Mike

-- 
--Mike Coleman (coleman@cs.ucla.edu), Lord High Executioner of Anhedonia-----
      Living in LA is like getting a chest X-ray every day of your life.
From: kcary@pepvax.pepperdine.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Trailer with infant and toddler
Date: 23 Nov 1992 15:21:20 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

In article <1992Nov11.134521.12093@waikato.ac.nz> , waldrond@waikato.ac.nz
writes:
>Has anyone successfully hauled 2 children in a Burley trailer when the
>...[can't fit the car seat]
>trailer. The 3 month old can't sit up by herself, so she needs some
>support.  What's the solution?
>
We didn't want to put our daughter on the bike 'til she was six months.
However, the seat/rack by Rhode Gear, which reclines, might be suitable for
your infant -- if you can stomach the cash, and the idea of baby on a
tippable surface (we couldn't hack the latter, tho' we ride in quiet
neighborhood, and on protected lanes/paths; the $ were a stretch but worth
it). Then your 2 year old can have the trailer by him/her-self. My wife
takes the baby on the seat now, while I pull the 5 & 3 year olds in the
trailer. [Our car was sick last week, and Cary, who is 5' 9-1/2",
cheerfully pulled the trailer and the baby in the seat 1.5mi RT every day
to take eldest to kindergarten bus-stop; I'm thinking of putting a trophy
in her Christmas stocking].

If you want to take another tack, and you have the cover for the burley,
you might do what my brother-in-law did. Fix up the back of the trailer
(where you'd put the groceries) so that the baby cannot slip under the
seat, and pad all sides are with lots of blankets. Wait or walk the baby
'til asleep, and lay baby in the nest in the back of the trailer. Put on
the screen cover over the back and top, then wheel off to the path. Baby
should sleep quite a while due to the motion. Someone then rides behind to
watch baby.

Kim Cary Systems Support Coordinator kcary@sun.pepperdine.edu kcary@PEPVAX
Grad School of Education & Psychology - Pepperdine University (iMho only!)
" I never met an L.E.D. I didn't like. "
From: paul@frcs.Alt.ZA (Paul Nash)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Date: 21 Nov 92 07:29:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: frcs.1992Nov21.072916.761
Organization: Free Range Computer Systems CC

Thus spake tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel):

> My borthers new Colango (The $1200 one with Dura-Ace STI) has no pump peg.
> How do people secure pumps to their road bikes so they don't rattle?  

This doesn't really answer the question, but I have just the right space
next to the seat-tube of my mountain bike, between chainstay and seatstay,
to fit in a Mt Zefal Plus.  My wife's bike has a lower bottom bracket, so 
she can sneak in a Double-Shot.  Maybe you can do something similar on the
Colango.
 
 ---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---=---
 Paul Nash                                         paul@frcs.Alt.ZA
 Box 12475, Onderstepoort, 0110 South Africa         +27-12-5611879

 "Standards are great -- everyone should have one" (Kent Landfield)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: todd@cleo.abt.com (Todd Nix)
Subject: Re: road bike gearing
Keywords: gears, ratios, road bikes
Organization: Alternative Broadcast Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:45:40 GMT

In <1992Nov23.151645.17084@b15.ingr.com> dvr@doofus.b15.ingr.com (Village Idiot) writes:
>The Schwinn has a 52-40 chainring set and 28-14 freewheels with a
>Suntour Cyclone derailleur.
>The Raleigh has a 52-40 chainring set and 28-13 freewheels with a
>Shimano 600 derailleur.

What you describe are already considered pretty low gears for a road bike.
Freewheels and cassettes usually don't go higher than 30 teeth, and thats
usually only found on MTBs. If you really want some lower gears you'll
probably have to add a third chainring. This may require a change in your
rear derailleur and will almost definitely require a change in the front.

-- 
Todd Nix                                                           todd@abt.com
 Movement1981-1982Power,Corruption,andLiesLowLifeBrotherhoodSubstanceTechnique
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad)
Subject: Re: better cantelever braking
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:57:35 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.204659.16744@eng.umd.edu> gsurbeck@eng.umd.edu (Gregory D. Surbeck) writes:
>Scott SE cantilever are supposed to be able to stop a single bike so
>quickly that they can throw new riders.

I'm a little confused, I have standard DX brakes and find all this 
talk about "braking power" strange.  I've never had a problem with
locking up either tire (I haven't tried to lock the front on pavement)
but even hanging off the back it's easy to lock the rear.  Are there
other people like me who need better traction to use the brakes they
have or do everyones tires stick like glue. If everybody sticks
then what kind of tires do you use, I need some.
scot
From: tdsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Timothy Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Spoke lub defies laws of physics
Date: 18 Nov 92 17:27:48 GMT
Reply-To: tdsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Timothy Smith)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, JONQC@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
>>> Around the mid 80's, DT spoke packaging suddenly began specifying
>>> not to use petroleum based products on their spoke threads and
>>> that's why I switched.

>It beats me why DT made that recommendation but I just figured that
>since they made the spokes, they must know what they're talking about.
>Does anybody else remember seeing this message...

    No, but I can guess why they put it on their packages. Petroleum
based products are harmful to rubber and latex.  Perhaps they were trying
to avoid legal/goodwill/credibility problems asociated with advocating/
allowing/not-disallowing the use of petroleum products near tires and 
tubes (esp. latex tubes).

    I can't imagine they were actually claiming that petroleum products
damaged their spokes. Oils and greases are common preservatives for
metal parts.

Tim Smith
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd)
Subject: Re: Out of Control Front wheel
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 01:51:10 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.160749.22456@msc.cornell.edu> tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402) writes:
>From article <alanf.721963497@bruce.cs.monash.edu.au>, by alanf@cs.monash.edu.au (Alan Grant Finlay):
>> My question is, is there a speed above which all bikes are likely to develop
>[stuff about causes of shimmy...]
>
>> such resonances with no hands on the handlebars?
>> 
>I don't think so; at least, not until you get to unreasonable speeds.  Mine
>is a bit squirrelly and difficult to ride no hands <12 mph, but gets more 
>and more stable as the speed builds up (as you might expect from the
>increased angular momentum.)  The fastest I've seen on my computer riding
>no-hands was 38 mph (don't ask me what I was doing at the time) and it
>was rock-solid.  I've taken it to >50 (with hands near brakes!) and it
>felt even more stable.
>
>A touring bike with touring wheels and tires should be even more stable at
>speed.  Maybe you should have your frame alignment checked.
>
>Dave

A bike with a straight frame and form won't shimmy at high speeds;  in fact,
it will be more stable.  This is because of the "trail" (I don't want to
try and word it out), but it works like castored wheels.  On a shopping cart
(at least the ones you never get that don't have any bum wheels), when you
push it forward all the wheels turn (you know how they turn...)

At any rate, my road bike was fine until I sucked a stick into the front wheel
and when it jammed my momentum bent my fork back about an inch (I didn't crash
and didn't realize the damage until a couple days later when the wheel hit
my foot when I was making a U-turn and I almost fell over).

Today, after finishing a sprint in a workout at about 35mph, I sat up and
it shimmied like an SOB...  I don't think I'll try that again until I get the
fork replaced, it's a wee bit scary.

Bill


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: gsurbeck@eng.umd.edu (Gregory D. Surbeck)
Subject: Re: better cantelever braking
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 20:46:59 GMT
Organization: Project GLUE, University of Maryland, College Park

Scott SE cantilever are supposed to be able to stop a single bike so
quickly that they can throw new riders.
From: ward@stokes.ae.utexas.edu (Steve Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Suspension Debate
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:41:40 GMT
Distribution: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: CFD Lab, Dept ASE-EM, University of Texas at Austin

I'd like to invite participation in a forum for discussion on
suspension systems for mountain bikes.  Topics to be covered should
include brand names, technology (elastomer/oil/spring), weight, cost,
rider's weight, (perceived) skill, typical terrain (include
size/spacing of rocks/logs/whatever, soft/hard pack).

I ask for this forum because talking to local bike shops gets me
different asnwers depending on what they sell.  If a pro/con
discussion could occur, it seems like there would be some
benefit gained for all.

Steve Ward
ward@cfdlab.ae.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: 97994779@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
Subject: Re: Cannondale Crit Frame
Organization: SYSTEMS & COMPUTING
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 23:15:27 PST

In article <92317.173320CTB103@psuvm.psu.edu>
CTB103@psuvm.psu.edu (Chad Burkins) writes:
 
>Hey riders,
>   I'm conidering buying a Cannondale Crit Bike, but I would like
>to do a good bit of long distance road riding with it.
>I found a real good deal on the crit bike, but am I going to be
>crying in pain after 100 miles ?  What kind of difference in
>frame stiffness is there between the crit and a normal road bike ?
 
the big difference between the road and crit models is the geometry. The crit
model has a shorter wheelbase wich makes for a much more responsive ride. the
more laidback angles of the road model (I say that jokingly though this is a
Cannondale we're talking about) give amore leisurely ride, absorbing more of
the bumps. It all depends on the softness of rear is what I am trying to tell
you.
 
Pat!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Colnago double down tube bike.
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:37:18 GMT

adr5@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Alex D Rodriguez) writes:
>>My brother just bought a new Colnago from a bike shop in Chicago.  It's one
>>of those with the double down tube.  He got it for $1200 with Dura-Ace STI
>>and the new SPD clipless pedals (Dura-Ace).  Anybody know anything about this
>>bike?  Apparently the shop is desperate for cash, they've marked all their
>>bikes way down.
>>-Terry
>Do you have a phone nuamber and address for this bike shop and do you 
>know if they do mail order?

The name of the shop is Cycle Smithy, they're in the 312 area code in Chicago,
I don't know the number but you can get it by calling information at 1-312-555-
1212.  I don't know if they do mail order but they sound pretty desperate for
cash so maybe so.  I'd imagine you would have to pay shipping but it's not
that expensive to ship bikes UPS.
-Terry
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Saturday, 21 Nov 1992 14:32:09 EST
From: <IO21145@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: K H S ?

  I would like to hear any comments on K H S mountain bikes -
how they stand in the light of TREK, CANNONDALE etc.  - any
technical info would be especially helpful to me - and how
do the prices compare (LIST).

                             SEND THEM DIRECTLY!
                                           thanks...
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech