HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: Re: How to get trees to start with
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 15:07:24 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk) writes:
>How do you check the roots?  I'd expect to get thrown out of the
>nursery if I pulled a plant out of its pot to inspect it.
>
  Usually you can put your hand flat on the surface of the soil, turn the
  pot upside down, and the whole thing will slide right out of the nursery
  pot.  I guess you should ask before you do this, unless nobody's around
  in which case I would probably just do it.       

>What's this? (re air layering)
>
  Many trees respond well to air layering.  Basically, it consists of cutting
  off a ring of bark about an inch wide around the base of a tree limb.  You
  soak sphagnum moss in b1 solution (superthrive), and pack it around the tree
  wrapped in (someone help me out here)  cheese cloth or plastic (?).  Oh, it
  probably also wouldn't hurt to powder the ring with rootone or some sort of
  rooting fungicide.  You keep watering it with b1 solution and eventually
  roots will grow through the peat moss.  Finally, you cut the limb off right
  below where you layered it and plant it.  

  This is a quick way to get a fairly mature looking tree in a short amount
  of time.  I've never done it.  Would like to, but don't have any trees I 
  can experiment on.  I'm sure someone will correct me if I've omitted or
  erroneously stated something.

Xref: sparky alt.bonsai:166 rec.gardens:7300
From: randy@Oswego.EDU (Randy Fromm)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai,rec.gardens
Subject: Winter "storage"
Summary: suggestions?
Date: 10 Oct 92 00:43:09 GMT
Reply-To: randy@oswego.Oswego.EDU (Randy Fromm)
Organization: Instructional Computing Center, SUNY at Oswego, Oswego, NY

Winter is fast approaching here in upstate New York and the time for 
bringing in the bonsai is upon me... I'm looking for suggestions as
to how to prevent mealy bug infestations of my conifers (mugo pines,
mostly) and suggestions as to how to prevent the "death" of the mosses
I've worked so hard to nurture through the heat of summer...

Additionally, we have *EXTREMELY* hard water here... over the course of
the winter I have seen a yellowy, crusty substance build up on the soil
surface.  I presume this is a mineral from the water.  Anyone aware of 
any harmful effects?

Thanks (in advance) for any info...

Randy Fromm
randy@oswego.oswego.edu
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: indoor bonsai  (Serissa)
From: keith@intaud.usu.edu (Keith Sedgwick)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 14:34:29 GMT
Organization: Utah State University (USU)

In article <BvMr5v.5su@cmptrc.lonestar.org> andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart) writes:

>Hi Tippi...  I have a story to share about _my_ Serissa which, 
>(besides showing what a bonehead I am) will serve as a cautionary tale
>for others.

>According to Tomlinson's book, these trees should be kept at 54 DEGREES
>AND ABOVE!!  Folks, that's not very cold.  

(Part deleted)

>Moral of the story:  If you've got Serissa, they should probably be inside
>by now.  Can anyone suggest some therapeutic care, if it's not too late?

(Part deleted)

>If anyone has suggestions for my sick Serissa, PLEASE HELP!

	Whenever I have a sick tree I visit the local dry cleaners and get 
one of the thin plastic garment bags they put over newly cleaned clothes.  
I water the sick tree very well and put the plastic bag over the tree, pot 
and all.  This plastic is very thin and usually won't bend or harm the 
small branches on the tree.  
	
	I then move the tree to a warm shady place, if it is cold outside I 
move it inside.  It gets very humid and warm inside the bag and seems to 
take a lot of stress off the tree.  I've saved two of my trees that I 
thought were goners, a Buttonwood and a Texas Ebony.  

	You might want to give this method a try.  It has worked very well 
for me.  Good Luck.  It is always *very* sad to loose a tree }8-(.

						Keith
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: pmalenfa@kitkat.webo.dg.com (Paul Malenfant)
Subject: Fertilzer: PETERS 20-20-20
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 17:40:29 GMT
Reply-To: pmalenfa@kitkat.webo.dg.com (Paul Malenfant)
Organization: Data General Corporation, Westboro, MA

I have always used a specialized bonsai food for my trees, but I just
bought some Peters 20-20-20 food.

My question:  how much should I mix with water?

My understanding is to dilute it to half the recommended strength, but
there is a chart of strengths that span a wide range (for climate,
indoors/outdoors, etc).  Which should I use?  Which do you use?


-- 

Paul Malenfant
pmalenfa @ kitkat.webo.dg.com (508-870-6460)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: Re: alt.bonsai FAQ updates
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 06:26:42 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

jamiller@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
>
>           ...although Japan borrows things from almost everywhere it
>makes it Japanese in the act of assimilating it.  So bonsai is still a
>Japanese art for in that sense.  What do you think...
>
>James Miller


I think you're right.  Just as we "Americanize" things _we_ assimilate.
Say, I could open up a chain of "bonsai boutiques"...  MacBonsai!  ;^)

Seriously, I have thought that it would be a natural to have a combination
high-class chinese restaurant and bonsai gift shop.  Really nice atmosphere
with bonsai in little alcoves...  I even have a name picked out for it:
"Garden of Dreams".  Does anyone know how to translate that into mandarin?

sheshe.
From: robohen@ocf.berkeley.edu (Henry Robertson)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: This netter wants mail
Date: 12 Oct 1992 02:28:43 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigbang.berkeley.edu

rchill01@uctvax.ucat.ac.za of South Africa is prevented from reading politically
dangerous bonsai newsgroups.  He kindly requests some of you bonsai netters to
become penpals with him.

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: bwalther@alfred.carleton.ca (Bill Walther)
Subject: Re: Canadian bonsai
Keywords: Great White North juniper snow ice cold
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 12:04:07 GMT

In <1992Oct6.120644.17941@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> varmart@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Reji Martin) writes:


>	By the way is "The North Bonsai" store still going in Ottawa? It
>	used to be down on Bank St. by Sunnyside Ave.


No, it went under. As far as I know we have no specialized bonsai shop
here in what's left of the nation's capital.  Perhaps the art is too
contemplative for the bureauctatic mind? ;-)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: jwcoll01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Bonsai Destruction
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 16:54:35 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

I was in my local bonsai store recently talking with the owner about
his tree sources.  He told me that most of the trees he buys are from
"farms" in Florida.  However, Hurricane Andrew, he said, has totally
wiped out several of these farms.  Has anyone else heard these tails
of destruction?  Will this destruction cause an increase in bonsai 
prices on in the eastern U.S.?

Joel Collins
Experimental Psychology
University of Louisville
Louisville, Kentucky

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: dave@alex.com (Dave Quinn)
Subject: Re: Help!!!
Organization: Alex Technolgies Ltd
Distribution: alt
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:38:45 GMT

In article <1992Oct13.205340.21638@news2.cis.umn.edu>, rna@crystal.med.umn.edu (Ryan Alexander (BMEC)) writes:
|> 	It's been looking a little bad for a while now.  A few of the newer
|> sprouts seem to hav died, and a number of the branches are brown at the very
|> tips.  I'm worried, and I don't have a lot of knowledge on the subject.
|> 
|> 	I've been keeping the plant in direct sunlight (south facing window)
|> and indoors.  We're approaching winter here, and I'm not sure if the tree is
|> simply doing something seasonal or if it's something else.  I've also never
|> given it any fertilizer (I'm not sure what to use, or how much.)
|> 	The pot my tree is in is about 2-3 inches deep, maybe 6 inches wide 
|> and about four inches long.  I've trimmed some of the branches that looked dead

The problem is almost certainly due to lack of fertilizer. Being in such small 
pots means that bonsai need to be fed regularly (we are talking every week or
two during the spring/summer). 

To help the plant as quickly as possible you could try some sort of foliar 
feed because this would be absorbed more quickly than via the roots. It won't 
need to be fed very often over the winter once it is health again.

I am a bit surprised that it is at all healthy indoors as Junipers are usually
outdoor trees - but if it has been there for 6 months then that is unlikely
to be the current problem. 

Good luck,

Dave
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai,rec.gardens
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: Re: SOFTENED water
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:21:15 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

Maybe they already had fungus or rot before you got them?
I've had that happen.
   
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: janet@ntmtv.bnr.ca (Janet Jakstys)
Subject: Re: juniper bonsai tree
Organization: Northern Telecom Inc, Mountain View, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:11:50 GMT

In article <a3lp92k@lynx.unm.edu>, mulberry@triton.unm.edu () writes:
|> 
|> I have a juniper tree that I have been watering it as per
|> instructions.  However, it looks as if it is drying up and
|> turning brown.  The tree does not look diseased.  It may 
|> need fertilization.
|> 
|> Can anybody tell me what kind of fertilizer I may need,
|> and how much of it I should use?
|> 

Bill:

I also have a juniper whos foliage near the bases of branches
turns brown periodically, but the ends of the branches are still green.  I
don't know if you have the same symptoms or not, but IMHO, I think
this is normal growth pattern.  I water him every other day; he gets
morning sun and then shade the rest of the day; I've been using a general purpose liquid plant food about once per month.  He seems to grow well
under these conditions.  When he gets brown foliage, I just try to
keep it pinched back.

How do I know it's a boy juniper?  I just know!  :)  

Regards,
Janet
***************************************************************************
Janet Jakstys         UUCP:{ames,pyramid!amdahl,hplabs}!ntmtv!janet
Northern Telecom      INTERNET:ntmtv!janet@ames.arc.nasa.gov
Mtn. View, CA.

"Don't just prune...BONSAI!"
***************************************************************************

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: edmtl@alf.uib.no (Thor Legvold)
Subject: Re: sending plants via email
Organization: University of Bergen, Norway
Distribution: alt.bonsai
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 12:49:38 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.204654.17045@cs.odu.edu> kants_g@isis.cs.odu.edu (George Kantsios) writes:
>This morning I was cutting back an olive tree I have and
>thought of how nice it would be if there was a way to
>email the cuttings to people interested in starting their
>own olive tree.  But since I can't ``email'' the cuttings, how
>about (US) mailling the trees from cuttings?

Good idea.  With a few reservations...

>
>I find that olive trees are quite impossible to kill, and starting
>a new tree is as simple as taking a cutting and putting it into
>a cup of water.
>
>I would like to be able to send a message saying I have started
>10 new trees, who wants them, but then I would have to take
>into account shipping, and packaging the trees.  Can packages be
>sent such that the recipient pays the postage?  And can anyone
>think of a very inexpensive method that anybody could use to
>package small trees?  This  could be an interesting method of
>acquiring/swapping some trees.
>
>I have a small collection of trees, but I think that starting
>plants from some of the cuttings, and giving someone a tree is
>much better than throwing out the cuttings.
>
>Anybody have anything to say about, or add to this?

As a matter of fact, yes.

Please follow postal regulations for sending of living material
(and seeds) - most are quite strict to prevent spreading of
diseases and insects.

I beleive California had a _major_ problem some years ago with 
'fruit-flys' because of imported fruit/plants.

Most countries strictly regulate (or prohibit) sending of such
material.  Here (Norway) it is illeagle to bring in plants, seeds, meat,
etc.  I would have liked to order some Bonsai from Bonsai Centrum
Heidelberg, but it isn't allowed - and I think you should think
of the reason the regualations are made - to protect the native
plant/animal life.

Not to spoil your good idea, or anything - just have a little
common sence :-)


>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>If you only have a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail. (Maslow)
>
>                     ______                         ___
>                    /    __|                         |
>                   /  \ /                            |
>                      | |                            |
>                      | |                            |
>                      | |                            |
>                      | |                            |
>                      | |
>                      | |                   George Kantsios (kants_g@cs.odu.edu)
>                      | |		    Dept. of Computer Science
>                      ---		    Old Dominion University, Norfolk VA	
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Regards,
Thor

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: bartlone@gemed (Michel Bartolone)
Subject: Junipers and 'stuff'
Followup-To: alt.bonsai
Reply-To: "bartlone@gemed.ge.com"
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Milwaukee,  WI
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 16:03:01 GMT


<mulberry@triton.unm.edu> writes 
>I have a juniper tree that I have been watering it as per
>instructions.  However, it looks as if it is drying up and
>turning brown. 

So..I'm not the only one...if my first three don't show any signs
of recovering by this weekend, I think I'll send them to the
mulch pile! My three all exhibited the same thing! I tried extra
light (gro-lux), misting, letting the water stand, some one
just recently told me that junipers like higher acidity soil..they
are not showing any signs of life...my forth juniper is also
drying out...the soil is kept damp or watered as soon as it
feels "dry" (but not DRY), I mist it twice a day. I water it with
cold tap water that has been allowed to stand for at least 24 hours,
and lately more like more than 48 hours. The forth juniper is
a juniperis chinensis procumbins nana...it is still green, but
the needles have gotten dry...so have the 'young green branches'.
  
On the brighter side, my boxwood is showing signs of wanting to live.
It has put out 6 new shoots in the last week...I'm thinking
of drop kicking the junipers and driving to the nearest shop that
might have a serissa or 4...
                                                 Mike

--
--
How can I? Why should I? I don't want to!
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: varmart@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Reji Martin)
Subject: Re: Planting an oak acorn?
Summary: planting a seed
Keywords: acorns, oak, planting acorns
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 13:19:44 GMT



	When an acorn falls from the oak tree does it really
	know which way is up?


	A friend of mine collected several hand fulls of oaks 
	one fall and buried them in the ground without regard
	to whether they were up nor down and now has a very
	healthy forest of oak trees. I plan to visit him soon
	to get the 4 trees he promised me. The Provincial tree
	of Prince Edward Island is the oak.




     The     O
     Wheel  /-
     Brat  ( )\_	varmart@atlas.cs.upei.ca

      Reji Martin, Prince Edward Island, Canada
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Planting an oak acorn?
From: Blackbub@sonoma.edu (Barry Blackburn)
Date: 8 Oct 92 15:31:58 PDT
Organization: Sonoma State University

Does anyone out there know how an oak acorn should be oriented when it is 
planted?  Intuitively I want to plant the end with the point in the downward 
position.  Also I live in northern California (coldest temp 20 degrees) and 
was wondering whether to plant my Californian Coast Live Oak acorns now or
wait until early spring?

Barry Blackburn										Wherever you go there you are - Buckaroo Banzai
blackbub@sonoma.edu

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: natalie@Chaos.mcs.kent.edu (Tim Sorenson)
Subject: Re: Junipers and 'stuff'
Organization: Kent State University
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:01:33 GMT

I lost several types of juniper<sp> when I first started and I did find
a way around it.  I began by letting them establish themselves far better 
than any other variety of tree and then 'bringing' it back to proper size
latter. 

tim

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Subject: Cheap bonsai & greeting from newbie
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 13:30:22 GMT


Hi bonsai-ers:

I've been lurking for a while and decided to "come out",

I've been interested in bonsai for many years but had been turned off by 
the pamphlets from the Brooklyn Botanical Garden.  They made it sound too 
archane and difficult.  Recently (last spring), I found a book in the 
library with very clear instructions.  I'd give you the title and author, 
but, while I copied a couple of page, none of them has the title on it!  
Some of the more unusual varieties they illustrated (along with the 
traditional pine, juniper, etc.) were cotoneaster, barberry, lilac, and 
virginia creeper (Parthenocisus cinquefolia).  I was inspired to try some 
non-traditional plants, myself.

Anyway, what I did to start was to dig up a rooted branch-tip of forsythia 
and a seedling (well about 5-years old) yew from the woods behind my house.  
The birds have been 'planting' yews back there for years with no results, 
but apparently, about 5 years ago the conditions were right and a lot of 
them 'took' because there are several there now, all the same relative 
size.  I don't want them there, so I picked the best for my bonsai. This 
past summer, I also dug up and potted five tiny red maple seedlings.

The yew is getting accustomed to being in a (large for the time being) pot.  
The maples are in a plastic deli tray until next spring, but I've been 
having fun with the forsythia.

Forsythia is not, of course, a traditional bonsai plant, but it is very 
hardy and grows fairly fast and has small leaves so I thought it would be a 
good one to try out my (non)skill on.  This had to be a very lowbudget 
trial and I am a rank amateur so it seemed ideal.

It was.  I snipped off leaves and tied down branches to make the graceful 
curves which full-grown forsythia branches have and wired (with twisties) 
and generally had a great time.  It not only still lives, but it even looks 
kind of good!  What fun!  I shall certainly move up to the more challenging 
species, the yew and the maples.

Well, that's probably more than enough for now.  I just wanted to point out 
that one can practice the skills for bonsai without spending a lot of 
money and messing up a good bonsai that someone else made.

--Jill

--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    | 

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: jwcoll01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: altificial lighting
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 13:55:53 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <2619@tredysvr.Tredydev.Unisys.COM>, mdobbins@tredysvr.Tredydev.Unisys.COM (Michael Dobbins) writes:
> In article <BvEvH6.G3n@cmptrc.lonestar.org> andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart) writes:
>>  It's been a while, but back in my younger days I had some experience
>>  with artificial lighting... not for bonsai, but <ahem> different story.
>>  You might want to see if you can find some VHO (very high output) or 
>>  SHO (super high output) flourescent fixtures and gro-bulbs.  They are 
>>  more expensive (unless you luck onto some as I did) and they do consume
>>  more wattage, but they will put out _significantly_ more lumens of light.
>>
>>  They're hard to find.  Might check a specialty lighting store.  They may
>>  even have some leftovers they will sell cheap.
> 
> VHO and other lights are commonly used in marine aquariums. Check out
> aquarium equipment suppliers and mail-order places.

I happen to be into both bonsai and marine aquariums  (It gets expensive
quick!)  I recently bought a "full spectrum" flourescent bulb for my tank.  It
is 24 inches long and cost about $25.  It's very bright and illuminates my tank
very well; I'm sure it would be enough for several trees.  One question though, 
will these lights cause furniture (such as a couch) or carpet to fade?

Joel Collins
Graduate Student
Experimental Psychology
University of Louisville
Louisville, Kentucky

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: dan@jake.cc.wayne.edu (Daniel Cwiertniewicz)
Subject: Re: thx for the bonsai listserv info...
Organization: Wayne State University, Detroit MI U.S.A
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:43:42 GMT

In article <Bvt4FF.F4H@cmptrc.lonestar.org>, andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart) writes:
|> Oh, by the way Kevin.  Thanks for that bonsai listserver info you sent me.
|> I have successfully subscribed and am receiving stuff.
|> 
|> Do most of you alt.bonsai'rs know about this?  There is a bonsai list server
|> available from Wayne.edu (?????).   I don't have the info in front of me.
|> 
|> 

Hi, I setup the listserv at Wayne State.  To subscribe just send a mail message to
LISTSERV@CMS.CC.WAYNE.EDU, as the text of the message include the following:

SUB BONSAI Your Full Name

Just substitute your name for Your Full Name.  I hope to add a bidirectional gateway
between news and the LISTSERV sometime in the near future (2 to 3 months).

-- 
Daniel Cwiertniewicz, Systems Analyst, C&IT, WSU, (313)-577-0787  
Let's talk Bonsai !
Bonsai@cms.cc.wayne.edu            
LISTSERV@cms.cc.wayne.edu  (To subscribe)                                  
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: bartlone@gemed (Michel Bartolone)
Subject: McBonsai!
Followup-To: alt.bonsai
Reply-To: "bartlone@gemed.ge.com"
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Milwaukee,  WI
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 18:50:19 GMT


<andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)> writes...

>I think you're right.  Just as we "Americanize" things _we_ assimilate.
>Say, I could open up a chain of "bonsai boutiques"...  MacBonsai!  ;^)

>Seriously, I have thought that it would be a natural to have a combination
>high-class chinese restaurant and bonsai gift shop.  Really nice atmosphere
>with bonsai in little alcoves...  I even have a name picked out for it:
>"Garden of Dreams".  Does anyone know how to translate that into mandarin?

>sheshe.

Not the craziest idea I've ever heard of..I have concidered (If I could get
past some of my current "problems") seeing if some of the local Chinese
restaurants would be interested in buying, displaying, selling, etc some
bonsai. MOST Americans (at  least the ones around this place) don't realize
that Japan and China are really not 'separate states in the same country'
so they would probably NOT recognize the cultural 'mismatch'. The ONLY
reason I wouldn't try it in a local Japanese restaurant is that there are
only about three (well known anyway) in the area..two hibachi places,
and the third MAY be a sushi place! But I could walk to three Chinese
places and if I wanted to drive I could get to ten places within 5 minutes!
                                                 Mike
ps: I have a friend who speaks Mandarin..fluently (she grew up there!)
and she says..Garden of Dreams = Meng Yuan.
 
--
##############################################################
## bartlone@last.med.ge.com 08:00-17:00 Mon-Fri my opinions ##
## are given to me by my boss...after that they are mine... ##
## .....except when my wife decides otherwise...            ##
##############################################################

Newsgroups: alt.bonsai