HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: eriseman@dw3f.ess.harris.com (Eric Riseman)
Subject: Outboard Cuddy's
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 12:29:19 GMT
Reply-To: eriseman@dw3f.ess.harris.com (Eric Riseman)
Organization: Harris GISD

I'm looking to purchase a used 21'-23' cuddy outboard.  Primary uses for
the boat will be diving
and fishing in the Atlantic (3x/Mo).  Can anyone recommend a brand
(ie:Searay) that is reasonable
in cost, in addition to being well made?  What is a fair price to pay
for such a "sea" worthy boat?
Is there a specific length and power requirement that I should look for?
How much bargaining
goes on in the purchase of a Used Boat (I've noticed that many boat
owners seem to have an 
inflated opinion as to what there boat is worth - especially boats that
are 4 or 5 years old  or
older!) ?  Is there a rule of thumb for a "fair" offer on a used boat
(other than what the market
will bear!) ?  Which type of  boat  is more likely to be a used lemon
(if that's a possibility), an 
I/O or an Outboard (and why)?

Thanks in advance -
From: ATLEM@ASUACAD.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: wood floor info wanted
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:25:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: ASUACAD.92283.092548ATLEM
Organization: Arizona State University

I am preparing to make a solid 3/8 inch teak floor cover to
apply to a plywood subfloor for a 30' cruiser. I have made
a floor (or sole? is it called?) with veneered plywood but
 this time we want solid wood. I am a furniture maker so I
understand the expansion and contraction properties of the
wood. I am just not sure how to accomodate them on a boat.

I am considering using strips about 2 to 3 inches wide and
adhearing them to the existing subfloor. I don't know what
adhesive to use, whether I should use a compressable filler
(caulk) between the strips, or buttthe strips up tight to
each other, whether to varnish the strips before laying
them down to the subfloor, etc.

Has anyone seen how this is done or have any sources of
information?

Thanks
Lauren
From: johnn@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (John Nicol)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:24:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Catalina 30 (WAS: Request for advice ... Cruising sailboats)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.boats

In rec.boats, stefan@helios.physics.utoronto.ca (Stefan Mochnacki) writes:

>   I also would be interested to hear what I should be looking for when 
>   viewing Catalina 30's .... is the mast (compression post) step in the
>   keel often rotten? Is osmosis common (I am looking at boats in the 1978-
>   1980 range)?

	I have a 1982 Catalina 30 that I keep in Tacoma, WA.  I find it 
	very easy to work on and to get parts for.  My bigest problem has
	been with the engine!  It is a fresh water cooled Universal 
	diesel.  After dumping a lot of money into it it finally froze up
	with rust.  It cost my ~$6,000 (US) to replace the engine with
	one with a sealed cooling system an a heat exchanger.
From: zba@altair.selu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Bareboating
Date: 12 Oct 92 10:36:07 -0600
Organization: Southeastern Louisiana University

In June of this year I rented a 45' catalina out of the British V.I.
The trip was a lot of fun but next time I would like to get a boat
from another location.  Has anyone ever bare-boated from another location
such as Bahamas or Belize?

Any suggestions welcome!

Brian Acosta
Systems Programmer
Southeastern LA University
(504) 549-3643
Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: dingy bottoms
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:16:10 GMT

>
>>Is there anything good (and legal) to apply to the bottoms of dingys
 
>              The detergent would be gone before he got to the start
>line. Although one does hear this from time to time ....
>
Ok, I am ready to show my ignorance.  I can imagine how something like
detergent would help break the film of water sticking to the hull
(real scientific, huh?) and thereby drag along less water.  But if the
only problem with detergent (for NON-racers) is that it washes off too
fast, why not try one of the following:
 
1.  Drip detergent into the water just in front of the bow.  Based on
my (recent) experiments in the bathtub, this might leave a film of detergent
on the surface of the water long enough for the boat to sail over it and
get some benifit.
 
2.  "Wax" the bottom of the boat with bar soap.  Watching how long it takes
a soap encrusted soapdish to soak clean, such a waxing may last well beyond
the starting line.  I know (from gardening) that detergent and soap
are not the same thing.  But would it matter for this application?
From: karina@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Karina Haavik)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: repost request
Date: 15 Oct 92 03:51:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Hi all.  Sorry to be a pain, but I lost the description of the "hunter's"
bend.  Could someone possibly repost it or email it to me?

Thank you very much.  And thanks to all for advice on wooden boat finishes.

Karina

***************************************************************************
Karina Haavik    Comet #2970
It looks like a boat.  It leaks like a boat.  It must be a boat.
From: bsmith@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Brian Smith)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:58:59 GMT
Subject: Re: ??Evening El Toro races in South Bay??
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.boats

Do they still hold the Bullship regatta?

Brian (just wondering)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: will@wixer.cactus.org (Bill Staniewicz)
Subject: Arctic Odyssey
Organization: Real/Time Communications
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 92 16:20:07 GMT

Last night the 'Discovery Channel' broadcast "Arctic
Odyessy" (an episode of 'Challenge').
This program featured the work of Ragnar Thorseth,
an explorer who sailed to the high Artic
to observe the activity of polar bears.
He used a 58' vessel for this purpose that had been
designed intially for _hunting_ polar bears. 

Did anyone else see this program and could identify
the designation or type of that vessel? They spent
alot of time in the program looking at polar bear stuff,
but didnt really get into the design or layout of the
vessel. Does anyone know about it? I think it was
manufactured or at least based out of Norway.

Thank you.
-- 
Bill
will@wixer.cactus.org

Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: blake@wk60.nas.nasa.gov (Matthew W. Blake)
Subject: Beneteau Oceanis 350
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 16:04:36 GMT


I've posted a few questions before regarding boats I may purchase, 
we've narrowed it down for nearly a year and think we've homed in
on one in particular.  I'd like any advice you've got on the following:

Beneteau Oceanis 350
1988 model, 34' length, 11 foot beam, 10,500 lb. displacement

I sail in the San Francisco bay and will eventually do some coastal 
cruising.  My family consists of a wife, 13 yr old daughter (and usually
a friend) and our 40 pound Catahoula hound dog.  We will use the boat
for day and weekend sails (cruising style), some beer can races, and
as a second home in South Beach San Francisco as we live in the suburbs.
I may put the boat in a local charter operation to defer some of the
costs.

Is this boat a good choice for my situation?

Comments on this particular Beneteau?
	- pointing ability, following seas handling, etc?
	- racing capability?
	- problems in constuction or design?
	- other?

Comments on Beneteau in general?


Thanks,

Matt 
blake@nas.nasa.gov
From: zielke@FOZZIE.NRL.NAVY.MIL (David Zielke)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: GPS
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:59:28 GMT
Distribution: na

I also understand that one can get the corrections after the fact if you
take a few numbers and then want to know where you were LATER...

David
Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: dfpedro@nv2.uswnvg.com (Donn F. Pedro)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Sailing into a slip
Date: 12 Oct 92 16:51:33 GMT
Organization: I don't speak for them anyway.

In article <1992Oct6.002003.21395@hpcvca.cv.hp.com> donr@hpcvcdo.cv.hp.com (Don Reid) writes:
>: At least this is my experience.  I'd be interested in hearing about
>: how *you* handle docking.
>
>I have a Day Sailer (17' 600LB) which I sail into a dock all the time.

When I owned the San Juan (21 foot, @2,500 lbs) I would sail in and
out of my favorite dock/launching facility on a regular basis.  I never
attempted it when it was crowded, but figured it would be a good skill to
have should the need ever arise.  I always got a lot of comments from 
spectators about either, the size or my reproductive anatomy, or my brains
when I did this.  Either comment, though entertaining, was irrellevant.
It is a skill, like any other.

Like having a contingency to handle a car with no brakes, learning to 
handle your small-to-medium sloop under sail only is a damn good idea.
It will probobly come in handy with the new Force 5, which has no
motor.  Had I always used the motor on the Opalko, I would have a lot
or relearning to do right now.

Don't knock the skill, just the foolish use of it.




     Donn Pedro ....................................dfpedro@uswnvg.com

		     There are no ordinary moments.
From: Paul.Saltzman@f764.n153.z1.ship.wimsey.bc.ca (Paul Saltzman)
Sender: UUCP@ship.wimsey.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: nav lights aloft sailbts
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 07:57:00 -0800

in a message from John Wexler re: lights atop of the mast. one reason
why i would'nt put one there is. Changing a bulb is climbing the mast
or stepping it both of which are a lot of work for a little job. My last
boat was a cape dory typhoon, i had the running light placed on the
cabin sole and even with the genny held tight hauled they were visable.
so i adopted the adage, the less aloft the less aloft for me... keep in
touch.

 * OLX 2.2 * Proofread carefully to see if you any words out.
From: bennett@erich.triumf.ca (P.Bennett)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re:    what is colregs?
Date: 14 Oct 1992 16:08 PDT
Organization: TRIUMF: Tri-University Meson Facility
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: erich.triumf.ca
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In article <92288.122504ATLEM@ASUACAD.BITNET>, <ATLEM@ASUACAD.BITNET> writes...
>That is the question? I see many  references to Colregs in this
>group. I can see it involves rules and regualtions. Is it
> group like USYR or a book or a short word for a long title?

"Colregs" is short for "Collision Regulations", which in turn is short for 
"The International Regulation for the Prevention of Collision at Sea".

As the name implies, these regulations are established by internationl
agreement.  Each country adopts the international regs, probably with local
modifications.  Canada had a special variation for use in the Great Lakes,, and
I suppose the US did too.

In Canada, a booklet containing the ColRegs is available from most marine chart
dealers - I expect this would apply elsewhere, too.

Peter Bennett VE7CEI                | Vessels shall be deemed to be in sight
Internet: bennett@erich.triumf.ca   | of one another only when one can be
Bitnet:   bennett@triumfer          | observed visually from the other
TRIUMF, Vancouver, B.C., Canada     |                          ColRegs 3(k)
From: bartley@spss.com (Dennis Bartley)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Polyesther leisure chutes
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:18:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: spss.1992Oct7.181819.4105
Organization: SPSS Inc.

bloxham@geophysics.harvard.edu writes:

>Now that's strange, because I've heard an almost identical anecdote
>from Key West from my sailmaker but with a few differences. First, in
>the version I heard it was a Taylor 42, second, it was a nylon 0.6 oz
>chute, and third it did blow apart, but not until near the end of the
>leg when they broached. And they put up the 0.6 by accident because the
>owner had stuffed it in the wrong bag.
>>
>Jeremy

Lest anybody get the wrong idea, Jeremys Taylor 42 was from New
England with Doyle sails. My Taylor 40 is named V-Max, from Chicago
and uses North.
From: jeffh@nonsuch.EBay.Sun.COM (Jeff Huntington)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Knot/Log Meters and Speed
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:58:13 GMT
Reply-To: jeffh@nonsuch.EBay.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: nonsuch.ebay.sun.com


After all of these years, I have finally installed a "real" know/log meter
on my boat.  Now I have a problem that I never anticipated; the meter seems
to read faster on starboard tack than it does on port tack.  I thought at 
first that I was doing something wrong (sail trim, steering, who knows what) 
on port tack that was making me slower, and I am still not absolutely sure that 
this is not the case.  (This is on a new boat, so I am still
learning how to drive it.)   However, it seems to be consistent, and the speed
difference varies with speed.  At around six knots (port of starboard you ask)  :-)
the starboard tack is about a full knot faster.  Since the knot/log is mounted
on the starboard side of the keel, the best explanation I can offer is that as 
a result of the boat heeling, the water is flowing faster along one side than
the other.   I know this is true at the water level, but never expected it at
the top of the keel.  Anyone else ever experience this?  

Let me give you some details on where the transducer is mounted.  It is mounted
on a relatively flat spot on the bottom of the hull about in line with the leading
edge of the bottom of the keel.  This puts it about a foot or two aft of where the 
leading edge of the keel attaches to the bottom of the hull.  The transducer is 
perhaps a foot away from the keel.  This is nearly two feet below the waterline.

Anyone have any ideas on how I might compensate for this.  Seems like a know 
difference can make a big difference in DR position over a several hour period.
Yes, I know that current differneces can (are, around here) much greater than
that.  Still, I would like to be as accurate as possible.  The reason I went 
with a knot/log meter this time is that I wanted to be more accurate than my old
knot stick and judging the speed of the water going by the boat.

Jeff Huntington
From: rlm@sei.cmu.edu (Richard Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: dingy bottoms
Date: 16 Oct 92 17:01:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: sei.1992Oct16.170149.5515
Organization: The Software Engineering Institute


In article <1992Oct16.153303.6489@spss.com>, bartley@spss.com (Dennis Bartley) writes:
|> (Brian Smith) writes:
|> >
|> >I read once, somewhere, that a boat will go faster through warm water
|> >than it will through cold water (don't remember the physics--may have
|> >been something to do with bouyancy).  Whenever any male member of my
|> >crew needed to pee, I used to send him up forward to do it over the
|> >bow, thus gaining and edge on the competition....
|> >
|> >B.S! (what do you mean, I just made that up?) 
|> 
|> Seems to me that putting someone up on the bow would slow the boat
|> down much more than anything a little warm water might help?

...not to mention, when did they ever learn about certain things one does not
do into the wind, or even nearly so?
Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: larry@pdn.paradyne.com (Larry Swift)
Subject: Re: Lake Powell
Organization: AT&T Paradyne, Largo, Florida
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 11:59:09 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.102314.59562@cc.usu.edu> hal@kaos.declab.usu.edu (000200 Lynch) writes:
>In article <6140075@hplsla.hp.com>, thatchh@hplsla.hp.com (Thatch Harvey) writes:
>|>groceries, you will have to carry all your provisions with you.
>
>A bit of an exageration.  Access to the lake by road is done at Wahweap
>...
>is ~six hours from Salt Lake City, ~two hours from Saint George, and less
>than one hour from Paige Az. each of which have an airport and shopping.

Actually, Paige is only about 10 minutes away.  A small city
but with all the amenities.

Larry Swift                     larry@pdn.paradyne.com
AT&T Paradyne, LG-132           Phone: (813) 530-8605
8545 - 126th Avenue, North
Largo, FL, 34649-2826           She's old and she's creaky, but she holds!

Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: gerard@progress.COM (Gerard Bras)
Subject: Re: What makes a boat a better pointer ??
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:46:59 GMT

tarkkone@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Lauri Tarkkonen) writes:

... regarding 48kts. with reefed main

>I had torn my jib and taken it down, and because I was singlehanded
>I did not bother to hoist any other foresail. So the only sail I had
>was the once reefed main. I was considerin to take in another reef,
>but on the run the apparent wind is not that bad, and had only less
>than 10 nautical miles to my destination, where I could drop the main
>in the lee of a high island, I continued as it was.

>It is pity that when the weather would carry you to new speed records, 
>you start to think how to reduce the sail and how to get into some 
>shelter. :-).

Well at least the ten miles went by quick.  My hat is off to you!

cheers,
gerard
From: will@ogre.cica.indiana.edu (William Sadler)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: Rigging Lasers and Bytes
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:35:47 GMT
Organization: Indiana University

In <3060045@otter.hpl.hp.com> cgr@otter.hpl.hp.com (Chris Romans) writes:

>In rec.boats, mike@mote.Berkeley.EDU (Mike Friedrich) writes:

>> Our sailing club just got 2 Bytes, which are very similar to the Laser, but
>> smaller and more maneuverable.  In either of these boats, what's the best
>> way to rig it?  I do it by rigging the spars and sail, including the boom,
>> on the dock and then pushing the whole thing into the hull.  Others first
>> push the mast with sail into the hull, then connect the boom, but I find it
>> difficult to tighten the outhaul with the sail whipping around in the wind.


>I sail a laser and always put the mast in the boat first before
>connecting the boom. When it's windy, force 5+, it's enough of a problem
>just getting the mast in without having the sail and boom rigged adding
>to the windage. As for tightening the outhaul, tie the outhaul to the
>eye on the end of the boom, then feed it through the sail and then back
>through the eye before leading it to the cleat which gives you extra
>purchase, and you should have no problem tightening it. You may have a
>problem feeding the outhaul through the sail if it's windy and the
>sail's blowing around but just grab the sail and tuck it under your arm
>while you connect the outhaul. 

I find trying to get the boom on in a lot of wind to be a problem  since
the dang thing keeps wanting to come off of the gooseneck.  Taping the
boom to the gooseneck not only keeps the boom from falling off, but
it also keeps the cunningham from getting stuck between the boom and
the mast.

An alternative way to rig your outhaul is this:  tie a loop just big enough to
fit around the end of the boom at the end of the line.  Lead the other end
through the sail grommet and then through the eye on the end of the boom and
up to the cleat (and then tie a bowline, go around the mast, tie another
bowline, etc. for extra purchase).  You can put the loop around the back of the
boom to hold the sail on the boom.  Tape this to make sure it won't come
off.  This keeps the friction in the eye on the boom down since there is
only one piece of line going through it, and it makes the sail easier
to release in a situation where you need to disconnect the outhaul
quickly.

BTW,  there is a mailing list for laser sailors.  The address is
laser@cica.cica.indiana.edu.  Just send me a mail message and I
can sign you up.

Will

--
***************************************************************************
*   _______________\|/_      Will Sadler     will@cica.indiana.edu        * 
*   Laser 44888    /|\                       sadler@iubacs.bitnet         *     
***************************************************************************
From: dorl@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Michael (NMI) Dorl)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: topside leaks
Date: 13 Oct 92 11:34:38 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

I've had some topside leaks around various fittings
such as stanchion posts and through deck chain plates. 
The boat has an interesting design.  The toe rail
collects all of the topside runoff and channels it aft
where it runs over the plates surrounding the through
deck chain plates and then over the base of the aft
most stanchion base before being channeled over board. 
I'm considering epoxying something to the deck at
these points to raise the the bases of these fixtures
above (say 0.5 inches) the deck.  The idea being to
make some islands in the runoff river on which to mount
the stanchions and chain plate surrounds.  Has anyone
done anything like this?  If so, what kind of material
is good (should be something resistant to sunlight and
weathering and also with good epoxy bonding
characteristics)? 

Also, what are folks opinions on best caulk (brand 
name) to use between stainless steel and fiber glass
for stanchion bases?

The boat also has jib sheet turning block tracks bolted
to the deck.  These are flush mounted.  Would it be a 
good idea to raise them off the deck a bit to allow 
water to escape under them?  If so, what should be used 
for shims?

Replies by email please.

Michael Dorl              (608) 262-0466  fax (608) 262-4679
dorl@vms.macc.wisc.edu    MACC / University of Wisconsin - Madison
dorl@wiscmacc.bitnet      1210 W. Dayton St. / Madison, WI 53706
From: bsmith@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Brian Smith)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 19:09:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Sailing into a slip
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.boats

In rec.boats, henry@convex.com (Lee Henry) writes:

    By the way how do you slow down when you have to sail down wind into
    your slip and you have a pretty good breeze pushing you along?  My slip
    is just about even with the end of the gas dock so I don't think I could
    use my anchor to back myself into the slip due to the traffic.

Trail a bucket over the stern

Brian (no smiley intended)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
From: ecf_stbo@jhuvms.hcf.jhu.edu (Heaven fits sky so ride them!)
Subject: Re: Knot/Log Meters and Speed
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: The Johns Hopkins University - HCF
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 14:30:00 GMT

In article <1bkf05INN5s@male.EBay.Sun.COM>, jeffh@nonsuch.EBay.Sun.COM writes...
>Since the knot/log is mounted
>on the starboard side of the keel, the best explanation I can offer is that as 
>a result of the boat heeling, the water is flowing faster along one side than
>the other.   

That seems to me like a really bad place to put the knotmeter. The keel will
be generating lift, so the windward side should always have faster flow than
the leeward (opposite of the sails). Can you remount it away from the keel?
The boat I race on has the knotmeter about 4 feet aft of where stem
meets waterline, on the starboard side. There doesn't seem to be any of the
effect you're getting, but starboard tack is about .2 - .3 kts. SLOWER. We
attribute this to the heel bringing the transducer up into more turbulent water
on starboard.

Tom O'Toole - ecf_stbo@jhuvms.hcf.jhu.edu - JHUVMS system programmer 
Homewood Computing Facilities, Johns Hopkins University, Balto. Md. 21218 
>Here comes a jet ski.
>weuh weeuhh weeuhh weeuhh WEEUHH WEEUHH WEEUHH WEEUHH weeuhh weeuhh weeuhh weuh
From: dsm12@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Daniel S McGehee)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: GPS
Keywords: Happy
Date: 12 Oct 92 18:56:58 GMT
Reply-To: dsm12@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Daniel S McGehee)
Organization: Columbia University

In article <1992Oct5.131830.15064@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> keith@iscp.Bellcore.COM (Keith Hawkins) writes:

<messages deleted>

I am interested in collecting some user feedback on GPS's.  If you
have one and/or have experience using one I would appreciate an E-mail
description of the model, and it's features, advantages, why you chose it,
etc.  I will post assembled responses on the net.  
		Many, many thanks,
					Dan McGehee
					dsm12@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu
From: Paul.Saltzman@f764.n153.z1.ship.wimsey.bc.ca (Paul Saltzman)
Sender: UUCP@ship.wimsey.bc.ca