HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dschneid@jacquard.ece.wisc.edu (Dan Schneidewend)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Can you flood a fuel injected car??
Date: 8 Apr 92 16:03:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: doug.1992Apr8.110321.3698
Distribution: rec
Organization: /usr/local/lib/organization

In article <1992Apr7.163632.21536@b23a.ingr.com> bishop@b23a.ingr.com (David Bishop) writes:
>
>I am the owner of an 86' Mazda 626-GT (turbo) This car has been
>a great one for me as I have had very few problems with it. 
>I have a problem that has developed recently that is, to say the
>least, annoying.  
>
> When I start the car when the engine is cold, I usually just
>turn the key, without pressing the gas pedal, and the car starts
>just like a properly tuned car should. However, lately I have 
>done the same as always, cranking the car without first touching the gas,
>and if the engine doesn't catch in the first 5-10 seconds, it just
>won't crank at all.It turns over but it just won't crank. I have to wait
>approx. 30 min. before I can get the thing to start. Now if I tap
>the gas when I first crank it, it starts ok. 
>
> My question is, shouldn't a car crank without touching the gas?
> ( if it's properly tuned of course)
>Secondly, it seems like the engine is flooded but how can that be if
>I don't touch the gas when I first crank the car? If the engine is flooded,
>why does it not crank when I hold the pedal to the floor like a carburated
>engine would?
>I guess I'm not sure about the differences between starting a car
> with a carb or one that's fuel-injected.
>
>Any bright ideas are most appreciated. Thanx

Most fuel injected cars have a staring routine that is open loop.
The amount of fuel injected is usually just a fuction of engine
temp and ambient conditions.  The computer can control the amount
of air with the idle control valve.  Things should be set so that
the car starts without using the throttle.  Using the throttle
can result in a lean mixture very high reving and is not recommend by
most manufactures (check your owners manual).

There are a number of things which could cause the problem your
described among these are : dirty injectors, bad sensors, incorrect
fuel pressure, poor compression, bad starter, poor spark....

The ECU (electronic control unit) can detect most other possible
problems and would light the engine idiot light.


Of the problems listed above, the most likely are (in order)
injectors, sensors, spark.  A bottle of injector cleaner is
a quick and cheap first thing to try.  You can check the spark
system just like you would on a carburated car.  If this doesn't
help, you might want to take your car into someplace that has
a diagnosis computer. 

Dan
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 8 Apr 92 11:25:53 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon) writes:
>Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?

NONE if your car does not NEED higher octane.  Higher octane will deter
pre-ignition "pinging" in cars with higher comp ratios. If your car
does not show any prob's with reg 87, 92 won't help you. Octane is NOT
a measure of stored energy in the fuel. It is a measure of the propensity
of the fuek to ignite before the spark zaps it.

Brian
From: carlos@athertn.Atherton.COM (Carlos Chang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: electrical problem, can't figure out why!
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:17:36 GMT
Organization: Atherton Technology, Sunnyvale, CA


OK! I've got a 72' Jeep Commando.  Very simple under the hood.  

Symptoms:

At night, lights on or heater is on, the alternator light glows a bit.  

If I put it in reverse, (backuplight come on) the alt.light glows a bit more.

The idle is not steady (exhaust leak in manifold?)  RRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrRRRRr..etc.The glowing alt.light goes up and down with the idle.

If I rev the motor, the alt.light does NOT dim as I would expect!

In the DAYTIME, I cannot see the glow because it's not bright enough!  I turn
everything on and I still can't see it.  At night, you definitely can!  Minor
drain or elec.problem?

You know how the alt.light goes on when you first start the motor, this shows
up plain as daylight during daylight hours.  No weak light here!

I've taken it in to the local Montgomery ward auto shop.  They said the alter-
nator and battery checked out fine.  ( I replaced the alt. a week before)
Yipee!!  They can't tell me much else since they haven't seen the sun shine
for a while. ("take it to an electrical shop...")

What other electrical problems could it be?


I know, I should buy an ammeter!  Better yet, a law should be passed that all
cars should come with a full set of VDO gages!


	thanks,


	Carlos
	carlos@atherton.com
From: markj@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Mark R Jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Question on Small block parts swap ..
Date: 6 Apr 92 18:31:39 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Apr5.232554.1@fennel.cc.uwa.oz.au> j_zrinski@fennel.cc.uwa.oz.au writes:
>
>Anybody out there know if Chevy 327 power pack heads will run on a 350
>block,,,,,,,would this bring the comp up too high or are there any other
>problems asociated, the 350 block i want too use has 9:1 pistons and the 
>engine will go into a Landcrusier so it can`t be too wild, but lots of 
>torque would be nice, also the motor will run LPG.
>
>Justin...

Power pack heads were used in the 60's on various motors. Although they came 
with small or larger 1.94 valves they all had 64cc chambers. This may
cause a problem with compression depending on the type of pistons you
have. If you have flat tops you might count on 10-11:1 compression. I'm
too lazy to do the math so I'll leave it up to you. How does LPG deal
with high compression compared to gas? BTW, personaly I would opt for a
72cc or 76cc chamber head on the 350 with flat top pistons. Hope it
works.
  _________________________________   _____________________________________
 /         _______________         \ /  OLD CHEVYS NEVER DIE, THEY JUST GO \
|        //~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\\  |     |             R A C I N G !!            |
|      / /_________________\ \|     |   OLD JAPANESE CARS NEVER DIE, THEY   |
|  -------------------------------  |    JUST TURN BACK INTO BEER CANS!!    |
|  / O O O -----Chevy----- O O O \  |_______________________________________|
| (_______________________________) | MARK JENSEN           (503) 627-3115  |
| (_______________________________) | TEKTRONIX METROLOGY LAB.              |
|  |\ _________________________ /|  | BEAVERTON, OREGON        MS. 39-732   | 
|  |      |`V'  `---'  `V'|      |  |        markj@tekig5.PEN.TEK.COM       |
 \_|______|_______________|______|_/ \_____________________________________/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
From: sunil@tcom.stc.co.uk (Sunil Nagpal)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Fuel octane, Carbon, pinging, etc
Date: 10 Apr 92 07:53:04 GMT
Reply-To: sunil@tcom.stc.co.uk (Sunil Nagpal)
Organization: STC Telecomms, New Southgate, London, N11 1HB


All this talk on high octane and stuff has prompted me to ask the nets
advice on my VW Scirroco GTI.  

The problem is pinking (pinging ??), on acceleration.  This
only occurrs after the car has reached normal operating temperature.

I took the car to get tuned, and the mechanic told me that the tuning
was already spot on, and reckoned that I had excessive carbon build up 
in the head.

Anyway, I've got a few questions about this:-

1) Is bad gas a cause of carbon build up
2) Can I get rid of the carbon without pulling the head,
(I've heard of a product called Redex over here in the UK, anyone used
it ?)
3) Is switching to a higher octane gas, (I'm currently using
Superplus unleaded 97 octane) likely to cure the pinging ?

As always, thanks for any help.

	Sunil

-- 
"I used to be indecisive but         | Sunil Nagpal <sunil@tcom.stc.co.uk> 
now I'm not so sure..." 	     | Dept 30770 BNR Europe, 
            Matt Johnson             | Oakleigh Rd South, London N11 1HB,  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aq637@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John J. Lopez)
Subject: Suspension knock
Reply-To: aq637@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John J. Lopez)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 05:37:41 GMT


There is a Chevrolet compact car that my friends own.  Everytime they
stop and take off again, it makes a knock somewhere in the passanger
rear wheel.

Can anyone help?
-- 
John Lopez   646-3251        |  'Somtimes, it makes sense
C-119 Garcia Hall            |   to think--sometimes.'
New Mexico State University  |       --Guenter Habdank
Las Cruces, NM  88003        |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 01:31:55 GMT

koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:

>In article <gt2t7th@rpi.edu> stiegg@aix02.ecs.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler) writes:

>>And I suppose you refer to detonation as Thermal Preignition of Combustables
>>many of us here don't want a college symposium here...there is a differnce,
>>most of us are practical, not theoretical.

>well, if i did, i would be incorrect since detonation and preignition are
>distinctly different phenomena.  seems like an appropriate time to recall that
>this *is* rec.autos.TECH and that technical and technological correctness is
>appropriate here.  

Yes but is anal retentiveness?
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Flammable refrigerants (was Re: Freon Freeze!)
Date: 9 Apr 92 00:38:50 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker) writes:

>jh26@prism.gatech.EDU (Jay Harrell) writes:


>>I would say that LPG in an A/C would be dangerous because you are piping
>>it through the inside of the car.  If a leak develops, you could fill
>>the interior of the car with flamable gas fairly quickly.

>Don't many of us have essentially an unlimited supply of
>natural gas piped inside our homes?  If that's safe what's
>so bad about a little LPG in an AC line?   Besides, some of that 
>noxious aroma added to natural gas could also be added to the 
>LPG refrigerant to act as a warning in the unlikely event of a 
>leak inside the car.

Not only that but EXISTING refrigerant, R-12, mixed with oil and vented
through a leak-type opening is very flammable, as much so as LPG/oil.
George and I have both set up experiments to demonstrate this effect.
George has made a video.

What really blows me away is peoples' inability to assess the risks
proportionally.  Some freak at the thought of a quantity of flammable
gas roughly equivalent to that contained in a butane camp stove, sealed
inside a rugged hermetic system while thinking nothing of the 10-20 gallons
of highly flammable fuel in the rear of the car.  Said fuel is transported
to the engine by rubber/metal tubing that runs the lenght of the car.  
Not only is there more of the gasoline on board, gasoline has a much
wider range of flammability than LPG.  

What really, really blows me away is many/most of these same people
will think nothing of transporting a cylinder of propane torch fuel
in the passenger compartment nor will they think anything of transporting
a can of gasoline for the lawnmower inside the car.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC        | What's the difference between Jane Fonda
Rapid Deployment System, Inc. | and Bill Clinton?  Hanoi Jane went to 
Marietta, Ga                  | Viet Nam.              
jgd@dixie.com                 | Need public access in Atl?  Write me.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: 1989 Jeep Wrangler Carb Problem
Followup-To: lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu
Organization: MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 05:18:03 GMT

I have an 89 Jeep Wrangler with a feedback carburated 4.2l (258cid)
inline 6.  For some time, it has problem with stalling under braking
and rearward acceleration.  A good carb rebuild @ 19,000 miles solved
the problem until almost 30,000 miles.  A quick carb rebuild at 35,000
didn't have any results (quick meaning I didn't soak the carb and
didn't blow out the passages with compressed air.. just spary carb cleaner
and new gaskets, accel pump, needle, etc.).  Anyway, I've just
bumped my idle up to 1,400 and learned to live with the annoying rpm
drop under braking.  But, now that the weather has warmed up and I'm
using the AC, its stalling again.  I decided to get hi-tech and see
what my O2 sensor was saying.  With everything up to operating temp,
my radio shack DVM (the one with the big flip up display) says
that the O2 sensor voltage at idle is somewhere between -150 and -220
millivolts at idle.  I'd never a negative voltage from an oxygen sensor
at operating temp before...  Note, my DVM is spliced in, the O2 sensor
is still hooked to the feedback controller.   Funny thing I noticed was that
as soon as I cut off the ignition switch was that the reading on my DVM
instantly jumped to 75 millivolts and stayed pretty close to 75 millivolts
for the couple of minute I watched it.  FYI, my DVM reading for an almost
steady-state wide open throttle condtion was around 650 millivolts.
Just the see what would happen, I tried grounding the O2 sensor (with it
still connected to the computer), and noticed no difference in idle speed
or roughness.  
 
 Anyone have any ideas on why I get ~-200 millivolt readings from my sensor?
 
 Anyone want to speculate on whats wrong with the carb itself?
 
 Anyone wanna tell me how to fix it?  ($220 for a DGV conversion kit
is the best idea I've come up with...)


From: stevew@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Steve Waite)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 14:39:41 GMT
Subject: Re: Gets hot and dies...
Organization: HP Network Measurements Div, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

The fact that it knocks under light loads and then suddenly quits when hot,
makes it sound as if the engine is severely overheating.  As the cylinders
get very hot you experience the knocking and then,  just before meltdown,
the fuel system vapor locks and the engine quits.  I'd check the radiator
and water pump.  You may want to try some kind of cooling system flush.

Steve

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Problem with rebuilt Holly 390cfm. 4 barrel - help Hot Rodders
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 18:36:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Apr12.115140.906@desire.wright.edu> dhoward@desire.wright.edu (sparky-desire) writes:
>
>holley's have in their primary bowl a gadget called a power valve.
>it senses the intake vacume, and when the demand is there, it will
>open up, thereby bi-passing the main jets.  when you re-build your
>holley, the kit comes with a new power valve.  it happened to me
>once that the spring in the new power valve was heavier than the
>old one, and my intake vacume wasn't strong enough to actuate it.
>the result was that the car "fell on it's face" whenever i stepped
>on it.  i put the old power valve back in, and the problem went
>away.
>the power valves come with a variety of spring tensions.  all the
>springs are color coded.  you should check this.  i think that you
>can get a power valve spring kit from holley if you cannot get hold
>of the old power valve any more.  then it's a matter of trial and
>error to get the right tensioned spring.
>
 The power valve should open as vacuum drops. The valves are sold by the 
crack vacuum level. The speed shop near me has a wall display with a whole
bunch of them, implication here being that they get swapped around a lot.

 The Holley book recommends that if the jets are changed then the power valve
channel restrictors (not the power valve itself) be changed to compensate.
However this is not easy (to do or to get the parts) according to said book.

 If you stay bogged for a while, until RPMs come up, then the power valve 
is a likely culprit. If the bog is only during the pedal event, and power
returns even though the RPMs do not move up much, then the accelerator pump
is more likely. The power valve is more of a steady state mixture adjuster 
while the accelerator pump deals with the transients.
--
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jeff@crash.cts.com (Jeff Makey)
Subject: 1034 vs. 1157
Organization: Future Procrastinators of America
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1992 04:52:50 GMT

What's the difference between a 1034 and a 1157 stop/tail bulb?
(Anyone who even *thinks* of saying "123" will receive 50,000 volts
through their keyboard.)

                            :: Jeff Makey

Department of Tautological Pleonasms and Superfluous Redundancies Department
    Domain: jeff@crash.cts.com    UUCP: nosc!crash!jeff
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bmahler@javelin.sim.es.com (Brian Mahler)
Subject: Gas vs propane
Keywords: propane
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 19:55:31 GMT

What are the pro's and con's of propane verses gasoline.

	Is you miles per gal increased?
	Is the life of the engin increased?
	Is it cheaper?
	What are the draw backs?


If it matters, the vehicle I'm considering converting is a 
'90 Ford Club Wagon, 1 ton, 351 fuel enjected,
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sturner@ultrix.ramapo.edu (Steven A. Turner)
Subject: Mystery Oil
Organization: Columbia University Center for Telecommunications Research
Summary: Marvels Mystery Oil
Distribution: rec
Keywords: Oil
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 04:18:39 GMT


Deos anybody know if Mr. Marvels mystery oil is any good?

sturner@ultrix.ramapo.edu
From: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM (Dennis Henderson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Max. cruising speed in small car
Date: 14 Apr 92 19:38:10 GMT
Reply-To: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: oversteer

>I have recently been driving longer distances than usual and been cruising
>at about 70mph.  The engine was revving just under 4000rpm.  Is this too
>high a crusising speed for the poor little 3-cylinder engine?

The harder you work any engine the sooner you will need a valve job.  This has 
been my experience.  Higher loads on the engine (high speeds or lots of acceleration) 
cause the head to run warm and eventually burn the valves faster than someone who 
takes the 55mph speed limit as an absolute maximum.  

I just plan on a valve job ~125K and then the engine runs almost like new for 
another 25 to 50K miles.

..Dennis Henderson
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Date: 8 Apr 92 12:51:43 GMT
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <92099.084312JBEST@ESOC.BITNET> JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon) writes:
>Does anyone out there know how a change in octane rating affects power?
>AND BEFORE YOU LEAP IN and say higher octane - more power, what I'd like
>to know is whether there's a fixed relation between octane and power.
>F'rinstance if you bump up the octane by x% how can you calculate the
>percentage change in power?

simplest explanation --

higher octane fuel contains *less* energy per unit volume than does lower
octane fuel.  less energy per unit volume implies that ALL ELSE EQUAL less
power will be produced by the engine running on high octane than running on low
octane.  this assumes that the engine management computer system doesn't
compensate for fuel octane, by the way...

walt k.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill) writes:

>   I was driving down the highway the other day with the engine temp right
>where it should be in the middle of the temp gage. Suddenly the engine temp
>climbed to the max level within a few seconds, stayed there for about two
>minutes, and then slowly went back into the normal range. Is this a bad
>gage or is something else wrong? Also, I changed the thermostat about four
>months ago.
>
>   Tom
>
> This is an 83 2.3 liter Ford engine.

Next time this happens, check the fuel gauge also.  If it moves up suddenly
like the temp gauge, then the problem is probably a bad gauge power voltage
regulator, or possibly a bad ground on the instrument panel.

If the fuel gauge is OK, then either the temperature sensor under the hood
is bad, or the wire to the temperature sensor is getting grounded at some
point where the insulation is missing.

If your coolant level is OK, I can't think of anything that will make the
temperature go up that fast.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 15:12:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Braking: Use brakes or transmission ?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Downshifting to brake a car does put extra wear on the transmission and
drive train, but is useful in certain situations, such as performance
driving and driving in the mountains (where you could overheat you brakes
if not careful).

What I usually do is leave the car in whatever gear I am in at the time,
and begin braking.  When the engine rpm has dropped (due the the car
slowing down) to just above idle, I push in the clutch pedal.

This way, you do get some engine braking with very little extra wear
on the engine and drive train.

In cases where I am going around a corner and need to downshift, I will
use the above technique until I am just above the speed at which I will
take the corner.  I then downshift to the gear I want to use in the corner,
let out the clutch, and use the combination of engine braking and brakes
to get me to my cornering speed.

For example, I need to turn off a 45 mph road to get home.  Before the
corner, I will let off the throttle and begin braking.  I haven't depressed
the clutch pedal yet, and I am still in 4th gear.  I will slow to 20-25 mph,
and downshift to second at this point (still braking all the while).  After
I down shift, I let out the clutch, and use the engine and brakes to get me
to 15 mph for the corner.

I think this is a reasonable use of engine braking.  I am not making any
shifts I would not have to make in any case.  I am not reving the engine
to speeds beyond what I use during acceleration normally, so I don't believe
that I am putting undo wear on anything (the car has 138,000 miles, so I
guess it agrees).


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton