HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (Shailendra Save)
Subject: Best Cassette Deck cleaner
Organization: CDAC, WA
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 23:34:33 GMT

 What is the best cassette deck (car deck, since it is impossible to get
at without dismantling half my dashboard) cleaner?  Which have you found
to be the best in terms of use and in terms of results?

Thanks,
Shailendra
ssave@ole.cdac.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Subject: Re: CHRYSLER LH
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 16:05:30 GMT

In article <1992Aug29.234720.5496@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm) writes:

>never go near one when it's open, you may be assaulted by sales
>scum, I looked it over.  Seat covers poorly aligned.  Paint

Thanks. And we think the same of you jerk.

>very poor (orange peel and drips).  Dents in hood trunk and two
>wheels.  Obvious fresh oil leak down to sewer (It rains in Ohio
>a lot lately.)  Distortion in the wind shield, not concealed by
>the smeared sealant from the gasket.  Left rear door not properly
>aligned.

>If this is the "CAR THAT WILL SAVE CHRYSLER" sell your stock
>FAST!!!!!!!!

We have a new Eagle Vision where I work, and while it looks cool from
a distance, as you get nearer, you see just how cheap it really is. I
agree with Jeff, the "scum."



Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: aalis@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu (Al Bundy)
Subject: Re: Solidity = Safety ?
Organization: San Francisco State University
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 21:27:55 GMT

In article <1992Aug29.191209.9277@leland.Stanford.EDU> nathanc@leland.Stanford.EDU (Nathan Chan) writes:
>From reading several auto magazines recently as well as word-of-mouth,
>I'm under the impression that German cars (especially Mercedes) have
>a reputation for solid construction and workmanship. In addition to being
>a virtue in itself, it seems to me that this would imply increased safety
>and survivability in case of an accident. However, crash test data in
>Consumer Reports shows that the Mercedes 190E only offers mediocre
>crash protection in a frontal barrier crash (even with a driver's airbag),
>precisely because the rigid body structure did not crumple much, and
>therefore more of the impact force was transferred to the occupants.
>
>What is the consensus on the net? Is rigid construction a good thing?
>I don't want a tin-can car, but maybe a bank vault isn't that good either.
>Any insights would be appreciated.
>
>Nathan Chan
>(nathanc@leland.stanford.edu)
>

I would prefer a solid car because body solidity will affect the 
overall handling of a car, and therefore improve the passive safety
of the car.
When I go to Auto Shows, I have a habit of slamming the car's door 
to see if it has a satisfying "thunk" when its closed.  At least
this will give me an idea if the structure is solid or not when I 
don't have a chance to test drive it (unless the factory knows
a way to make a tin-can car close its doors with "thunk" which I think
won't happen because they might as well make the whole structure
solid)
BTW, I was surprised that the new Civic has a solid feel when I
closed its door compared to Lexus LS 400's.  Sure, Lexus's doors
are heavier because it is bigger + power everything inside (I think
the leather make them heavier too)  But to me, the doors still sound 
like a Toyota Corolla's when they are closed.
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: THE DOOR HORROR
Date: 3 Sep 92 00:59:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep1.004624.10037@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm) writes...
good suggestion deleted (the former, that is)
> 
>Jeff
>WHO GOT KEYED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

brief grammar version:

friend & I parking @ mall. Huge caddy parked grossly
across 2 spaces (not handicapped either, just a jerk)
we park his GTI in the remainder of one of the spots
fully within the confines of the space.

come out to find this idiot had the nerve to key his
car and rip the molding off it?!?!?!?!?!




st
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: morgan@jts.com (Morgan Jones )
Subject: Re: I love Saturn!
Organization: JTS Computer Systems Ltd.
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 15:19:18 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.210839.26010@fid.morgan.com> joec@fid.morgan.com (Joe Collins) writes:

   [ Stuff about brakes fading and Saturn taking care of customers ]

   This cost me NOTHING although the car was out of action for 2 hours 
   or so. While the car was there, they performed the normal 12000 mile
   service as well (for the usual fee). Lastly, they noticed our passenger 
   side door was damaged and said it would be fixed, for free. They would
   replace it, not repair it, for free.

In what way is your door damaged?  I also have an SC, also with a
damaged door.  There is a small crack on the edge of the door right
where two supporting body panels meet - the dealer (here in Canada)
said that it was due to either a defective door or over tightening of
a bolt at the factory.  He said that the repair would be under the
warranty, but that they would fix the crack with some sort of
injection molding process rather than replace the panel.

I'd like to know if others have had this problem, and if so what the
usual approach to fixing it is.
-- 
Morgan Jones    -    morgan@jts.com
JTS Computer Systems Ltd., Toronto, Canada
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: dclayton@bnr.ca (Don Clayton)
Subject: Re: Strike at Saturn?
Reply-To: dclayton@bnr.ca (Don Clayton)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 12:43:06 GMT

In article <BttMEz.Awx@acsu.buffalo.edu>, v085ns78@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Gregory J Perantoni) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug30.225236.22236@bnr.ca>, dclayton@bnr.ca (Don Clayton) writes...
|> >In article <1992Aug30.221408.6859@leland.Stanford.EDU>, underdog@leland.Stanford.EDU (Dwight Joe) writes:
|> >The cost of an Accord in Canada is about $19,000.  Does this answer your
|> >question?  What's the cost of Canadain beer, beef and lumber in the U.S.
|> >compared to Canada?  I can tell you it's higher (not including tax).
|> 
|> Well, since you asked, in Buffalo one can buy a case of Molson for $10.99
|> US Dollars. In Canada, last I bought a case of Molson it was about $17 US.
|> Granted, its not exactly the same beer, but thanks for telling me its higher. 
|> 
|> I never realized all the implications of the strike at Saturn, which isn't
|> really at Saturn. 
|> 
|> 						Greg

And about $10 of the Canadain price is tax.  I believe about $1 of the U.S.
price is tax, putting it at about $7Canadian and $10U.S.  I believe the rest
of it is import duty.

Don
My brain, my thoughts, my words.
Let's pretend that protestants and catholics are friends.
   Northern Pikes
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jiang@mpr.ca (Jie Cheng Jiang)
Subject: Re: SHO Engine for Probe GT - Why Not?
Organization: MPR Teltech Ltd., Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 21:49:21 GMT

In article <14433@auspex-gw.auspex.com> tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett) writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.174847.9936@mprgate.mpr.ca>, jiang@mprgate.mpr.ca (J.C. 
>Jiang) writes:
>> All of my friends agree 
>> that the free-revving SHO engine is perfect for the Probe. I feel that
>> a Probe SHO should have no trouble beating a 5.0 Mustang in 0-60. Is this
>> realistic? Or am I just day dreaming? 
>
>I wonder how much a Probe weighs.  A SHO engine might be kinda interesting
>in a Probe, depending on the weight.  A Taurus SHO weighs 3400 lbs
>empty i think, and I'm sure the Probe weighs less than that.  I'm
>also certain that a 5.0 litre V-8 out of a Mustang probably
>doesn't weigh any more than a 3.0 litre SHO engine, would
>the V-8 therefore be a better choice?  More HP and more Torque.
>

The Probe GT weighs 600 lbs less than the Taurus SHO, about the same as a 
5.0 Mustang LX. I am pretty sure that the front-wheel-drive Probe would have 
trouble handling the low rpm torque from the 5.0 V-8 in the Mustang. But 
the 3.0L SHO engine has steeper torque curve, which is ideal for fwd.
As a matter of fact, I haven't heard many people complain about torque 
steering in the fwd Taurus SHO.

>What a thought, an Yamaha in a Probe.  It should be called the
>Probe SVO.
>

I like that name! I read in some rag that they are going tossed the Mazda-built
2.5L V-6 in the Probe GT for '94('95?) and put in the wimpy V-6 from the Tempo.
What a shame!

>
>Tom Pickett 
>tpickett@auspex.com
>SHO  GOZE


-- 
------------------------------+-----------------------------------------
J.C. Jiang    	              | Voice: (604) 293-5795
MPR Teltech Ltd.              | Fax:   (604) 293-5787
8999 Nelson Way, Burnaby, BC  | Email: jiang@mprgate.mpr.ca  OR
From: cc@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Chris Cooke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: In Search of Morris Minor
Date: 31 Aug 92 14:14:20 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Edinburgh, Scotland
In-reply-to: ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu's message of 29 Aug 92 23:18:13 GMT

In article <1992Aug29.231813.4434@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> ac579@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G.C.J. Timm) writes:

   If the above post was not a major put on,
   I suggest you seek SERIOUS professional brain care!

   Jeff
   Who cannot understand why anyone would WANT a Morris Minor...

I believe you can still buy them new; some little factory somewhere is
assembling them from its collection of spare parts!  The Morris Minor was
very charming to some people, and also one of the most reliable cars ever
built.  Apparently many of the cars in Sri Lanka today are Morris Minors,
twenty years after they stopped production.  You still see a number of them
about on British roads; they're cult cars, and command high prices for their
age.
--
	-- Chris. 	cc@dcs.ed.ac.uk   (on Janet, cc@uk.ac.ed.dcs)

		
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
Subject: Re: '84 GTi trans in '86
Organization: Software Engineering Institute
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 18:48:19 GMT



	  The '86 uses larger output shafts (axles) than the '84.
	You'll have to use the '84 output shafts with the '84
	transaxle. 


	Craig
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Shocks for Bus - no KYB's?
Date: 27 Aug 92 20:38:30 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On 25 Aug 92 19:53:24 GMT, wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) wrote:

>Hey there all-
>I've been following the thread on the GTI shock question.  Someone not
>too terribly long ago recommended the KYB Gas-adjusts for REAR (though 
>definitely not front) shocks on the microbus.  As I am just about ready
>to make a purchase and do the work, I'd like to know if others can
>support this rumor about KYB's not being well made.  If so, should I
>go with the not-as-stiff stock Boge's or something else altogether?

I used to drive an '81 Toyota Diesel Pickup.  It really rode poorly unless
the shocks were in good shape.  KYB Gas-adjusts were the only ones I found
which didn't fade when warm, did provide sufficient damping, and did last
more than a year.  I didn't try any high-performance (race-car type)
shocks, but among the "street" brands, KYB's were great.  At the time,
though, KYB made two different lines of shocks.  They were distinguished
by the color of the KYB logo.  One had a lifetime warranty and lasted a
long time.  The other had a 1-year warranty and lasted about 25K miles.

I'm curious about the statement that KYB's should not be used on the front
of a VW Microbus.  I drove a '78 Westfalia which had KYB's all around a 
few weeks ago, and I thought it rode and handled really well.  Why would
you not want them on the front?

>Bill
>-- 
>William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
>Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
>MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595

Bob
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bob Rusk			    | An egoless acceptance of stuckness is a
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com	    | key to an understanding of all Quality.
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'. |			   - Robert M. Pirsig
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyw@andy.medesign.caltech.edu (Andy Wells)
Subject: '81 VW Dasher Diesel wagon FOR SALE
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: la
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:09:11 GMT


For Sale--

***1981 VW Dasher Diesel Station Wagon***

--gets 40 miles per gallon

--120K miles, all on the highway

--body in great shape, no rust

--new transmission and clutch

--brakes checked and replaced this year

--new tires last year

Get a great car, perfect for hauling around you and your stuff, for only

$1800

Call Andy at (818)449-7658 (H) or (818)356-4165 (W)
or e-mail to andyw@design.caltech.edu

 
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ingram@sequent.com (Bill Ingram)
Subject: Type 3
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 17:17:33 GMT

 I would like some input on this, for I have to let the
 owner know by tomorrow.
 He has a 1970 Fastback w/auto, dual Webers, and a very straight 
 body. The engine appears OK, not great though. The auto sleeps
 when cold staring out in drive only. If starting out in 1st, no problem,
 I just row it through the gears (3 speed auto). There is NO downshift
 if left in drive (3rd). Any guesses to the automatics problem? Fluid
 looks fine, both color, level and smell. 
 Interior is acceptable. Dash is ragged, windshield cracked. No rust     
 ANYWHERE!
 He's firm on $400. What do you'll say? Can the conversion to 4 sp be
 easily done? I have done it on type 1's, but I have limited knowledge
 of type 3's.
 BTW-no sunroof, but factory (dealer?) Porsche style chrome wheels and
 tight alround suspension. Brakes fine.

 Help, I need a good argument to convince the wife this really is a 
 good buy (I already own 2 71' Supers!)!!

 Thanx-Bill
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Advice on Bugs *Needed*
From: dbmurphy@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 25 Aug 92 14:05:05 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

I'm kinda new to this newsgroup but I have an '88 Jetta GLI that I love and I
have been considering buying and restoring a Bug, so I need some advive on the
best years for them, and average pricing.  I have heard that '67 and '68 are
really good years for the Bug, but I want as much advice as I can get.

Thanx
Darrick Murphy 
Miavx1

DBMURPHY@MIAVX1
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado questions
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 28 Aug 92 09:41:23 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

>In article <1992Aug26.124756.16746@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, anh@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (christopher.j.hapeman) writes:
>|> 
>|> Couple of questions regarding my '90 Corrado:
>|> 
>|> 1.  Occasionally when the rear spoiler retracts it makes a 
>|>     rubbing/sticking type of noise.  Anyone know of a way
>|>     to lubricate it?
>|> 
In article <17146@ulysses.att.com> doug@ulysses.att.com writes:
>Christopher-
>
>In an attempt to answer your questions:
>
>(1) Mine does it too. Sorry, not an answer but at least a little sympathy.


Mine does it too. Fix: Baby it, literally!

Use some Talcum powder around the shafts with the spoiler
fully extracted. 
I asked Jeff the VW mechanic, and he recommended the same, and
noted NOT to use Si spray as it tends to dry out rubber.

Other sources quoted me to use brake fluid, yes, that's right, brake fluid.
I'll stick to baby powder for now.

Jan

PS: Brake fluid eats paint.
PS2: Baby powder used to be predominantly talcum. However check
if that's still so because Talcum naturally occurs with Asbestos
(I know, we are all doomed).
-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: James Gadd <gadd@roses.stanford.edu>
Subject: ** FOR SALE - '68 Squareback **
Organization: Rehabilitation R&D Center Palo Alto VAMC
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a5
Distribution: CA
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 19:31:18 GMT

Very Good Condition  -	New Clutch
			Tires Almost New
			Brakes Good
			Engine Runs Great
			Body Straight
			Interior In Good Shape

Selling because we bought a new car.

Asking $975 or Best Offer.

Call (408)739-9891
Email gadd@roses.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: 12 Volt Conversion DONE!
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 22:39:00 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Aug31.073653.4434@bb1t.monsanto.com>, bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
> Possibly a bus
> generator would be a better idea for a Ghia?  On a bug, the voltage 

What's a bus generator?  I thought they were all the same.  Although some idiot
at a parts store told me something about a bus generator that was about 3/8
inches shorter than a bug generator.  Said that if I was going to put it in a
bus of that age, that I would **NEED** (he was adament) the bus one.  Since I
told hime beforehand that I was putting in a bug motor and a doghouse
fanshroud, I concluded that he was an idiot-child.


> The only other items on the engine are the coil, which is a straight
> replacement, and the carb auto choke.  This is a pricey item, but 

Don't forget the idle cut-out solenoid!!! (If you have one) If you don't put in
a 12V one, your car won't run (but it certainly won't diesel;-)

> On a bus and Ghia you will need a horn relay.  The 12 volt doesn't 

I didn't see a relay for the horn.  I only have one horn, and it seems to be
wired directly.  Where would I find this relay?
...
> replacable.  I put in a manual choke kit since I had the engine out.  
...
> changer device, which is no longer just a resistor but a neat little 
> electronic
> circuit that lowers the voltage and provides you with a speed control. 
>  Mounts
> in the dash in a 1/4" hole.  Be sure the heat sink fins are clear of 
> any wires.
> Wipers still run slow, of course, since the motor still sees 6 volts.

Did you get the manual choke kit and wiper transformer from JC Whitney?
I just know this is going to start another JCW thread, but what quality of
stuff was it?  If not JCW then where did you get it?


Oh, I almost forgot, what about the headlight relay?  I looked at 12V version
of my 6V relay, and they had different numbers of contacts.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: sticking door handles
Date: 25 Aug 92 18:41:55 GMT
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
Distribution: rec
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems

Lately, the outside door handles on my '86 GTI have started to stick.
By this I mean that when I squeeze the trigger, I have to squeeze
*really hard* to get the door latch to release.

I seem to remember something about a VW part that helps...an ideas on
how to fix this before I can't open my door at all?

Thanks in advance!
--

                                Lee Hetherington
                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Subject: Re: Frozen or broken stud removal
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:53:13 GMT


	How's about this:  Take a hacksaw, cut a slot into the top of the stud
(if some is showing) and use a large mechanic's screwdriver to remove it.


Bruce
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Intake manifold fix
Date: 4 Sep 92 10:28:03 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

>  Does anyone know how to replace the rubber seal for the intake manifold
> without making this a major project? Or is there a sutible substitute?
> 	Can anyone understand this description?
> 
> -Garrett

Several air cooled vws have tape over the rubber seal... My bus was no
exception when I bought it.  The vaccuum leak ruins the timing.
It is easy to fix, it takes less than an hour.

First of all loosen the clamps (two on each seal) then remove the nuts where
the manifold connects to the piston heads (where it branches out from the T
curves down and splits in two).  There are two nuts on each side.  Now remove
the four bolts that hold the heat risers on.  These are the narrower pipes that
split from the 'T' before the manifold curves down.  So now you have removed
four nuts and four bolts...  There may be some covers to protect the heat
risers that will come off first, but most older air cooled engines have lost
these long ago.

now they should be loose... swing the carb to one side, slip off the manifold
and do the exchange.

--Tom Coleman
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Subject: Re: sticking door handles
Reply-To: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Organization: Field Robotics Center, CMU
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:55:46 GMT


> 
> Lately, the outside door handles on my '86 GTI have started to stick.
> By this I mean that when I squeeze the trigger, I have to squeeze
> *really hard* to get the door latch to release.


That happened to my driver's door handle a while back.  There is a
plastic piece that slides back and forth when you squeeze the handle,
and that piece was cracked.  So, instead of moving like it should, it
would just flex.  I had to replace the handle.


I lubricated the other ones, and they worked better.  Its possible
that not lubricating often enough means you have to squeeze harder,
increasing the chances of breaking that plastic piece.

Good luck
--
Paul Keller                     paul.keller@frc.ri.cmu.edu
Field Robotics Center           Phone: (412) 268-6563
The Robotics Institute          Fax: (412) 682-1793
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: sticking door handles
Date: 31 Aug 92 14:45:00 GMT
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
Distribution: rec
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
In-reply-to: ilh@lcs.mit.edu's message of 25 Aug 92 18:41:55 GMT

Well, I fixed my door handles this weekend (with the help of Scott
Hinckley's advice):

1) Pry off the black or chrome strip covering the long part of the
   door handle.  Use thin screwdriver or knife to pry off the rear
   end near the lock.

2) Remove the exposed screw at the front of the handle.

3) Open door.

4) Remove the other screw inside the door.

5) Remove the handle, sliding forward slightly and then pulling
   straight out.

6) There is a metal lever exposed inside the door.  You push down on
   it to open the door.  I bent this up a little using needle-nosed
   pliers.  (There are two other levers deeper inside the door having
   to do with the lock.)

7) Grease (waterproof) the lever and the mechanism in the handle to
   reduce needed force in the future so that this may not happen so
   often.  I also greased the latch mechanism.

8) Put door handle back on.

9) Replace two screws.

10) Replace the strip.

In all, took less than five minutes per door.  They're just like new!


--

                                Lee Hetherington
                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu
From: 01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: The best water-cooled VW?
Date: 1 Sep 92 22:59:34 GMT


	For quite a while, I have been an afficiando of air-cooled volkswagens.
I might have to get a new car soon, one that insurance would cover.  

	SO, what do you consider to be the best of the second-generation VWs?
Which are the most affordable in terms of mileage, used cost, upkeep, etc.

	Thanx in advance,


		Kyle
	
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kts@beach.csulb.edu (Ken Sumida)
Subject: Best repair manual for '66 vw bus?
Keywords: vw bus
Organization: Cal State Long Beach
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 07:35:32 GMT

Hi!

Friend of mine just bought '66 vw bus (camper model) and he needs detailed
manual for it.  (shop manuals would be nice)  Where can he get it and how much?

Please email me....  |)

my address is: kts@beach.csulb.edu

Thanks!




Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw