HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Ceiling Fan Recommendations Wanted
Date: 9 Nov 92 17:53:24 GMT
Organization: St. Mary's College of Maryland
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d10
X-XXMessage-ID: <A7241EBEA10301D2@williams.smcm.edu>
X-XXDate: Mon, 9 Nov 92 18:57:18 GMT

I have some apparently old, certainly squeaky, ceiling fans that came
with the house and that I might want to replace.  Can people recommend
brands of ceiling fans that are noted for long life and high
efficiency? I use them in the summer for cooling and in the winter to
distribute the heat from my wood stove. 

 We're  kind of in the sticks here, and it would be really helpful if
recommenders could suggest where the good brands can be bought,
especially by mail order.
 ___________________________________
William E. Williams, bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu
Divison of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
St. Mary's College of Maryland
St. Mary's City, MD 20686
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: randyw@iplmail.orl.mmc.com (Randy Walker)
Subject: Re: soundproofing rooms
Organization: Martin Marietta
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 13:53:47 GMT


 From an engineering view, the keys to soundproofing are mechanical isolation,
 using high density barriers and making the area air-tight.

 First make the area air-tight with weather-stripping, caulk, etc. around all
 openings such as doors and windows.

 Also isolate the vibrations caused by the stereo by installing a carpet over
 a thick pad. 

 If that doesn't solve the problem, make high density barriers by installing
 soundboard or other heavy coverings on walls, ceiling, and doors. A solid-core 
 door should be used.


 Randy Walker
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: toddi@mav.com (Todd Inch)
Subject: Re: Locksets - brand recommendations
Organization: Maverick International Inc.
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 92 21:10:45 GMT

In article <1992Oct29.040228.9400@medtron.medtronic.com> bb11807@medtronic.COM (Brian A. Blow) writes:
>Dan Kerl (kerl@cmack.b11.ingr.com) wrote:
>: Does anyone have any experiences with different brands of locksets in terms of
>: price, ease of operation, and durability? 

I do some locksmithing as a "hobbyist" - for my workplace, church,
friends & family, etc.  IMHO, here's the ranking for quality:

Schlage - Best
Weiser
Kwikset
Weslock
Yale    - Worst

Schlage USED to be very good, now they are only about as good as Weiser
or maybe Kwikset.  I'm told they used to be family owned but were sold
a few years back and the quality of their new product lines (primarily
residential type knobs) has suffered.  After taking them apart I agree.
 One nice feature about their cheap key-in-knob (entry) locksets is
that the keyhole can be made upright without disassembling the knob -
i.e. installed on a left hand or right hand door with the key notches
pointing up regardless.  They also fit both common backsets without
changing the latch, although most other  cheapos do this too.  One big
advantage - you can get almost any type of lock with a
schlage-compatible keyway (e.g. padlocks, cabinet bolt locks,
deadbolts, commercial quality, etc.).

Weslock uses very few different cut heights, therefore have
fewer unique keys and easier to pick.

I haven't seen Weiser around for a few years, Kwikset seems to be most
popular around here.

I have very little experience with Yale - I had always assumed they
were decent quality, but recently bought a new one (both deadbolt and
key-in-knob) and was quite disappointed.  First off, the "hills"
between cuts on the key were too high and sharp, which was dangerous
and you had to really push/pull to get the key in/out of the lock. 
Then after about a week, the key-in-knob fell apart.

Nowdays, I usually buy the cheapie "house brand" models if I don't need
to key to an existing key system.  These seem to be moderate quality
and once I was quite impressed that they had taken the best features
from several different brands and combined them into a decent and very
low-priced lock. I needed to key it to an existing lock and key and it
was the most serviceable residential lock I'd ever worked on.  The
"house brand" locks usually have keys compatible with one of the major
brands, so they can be keyed alike if you select them carefully.

The latest newcomer appears to be Master, which formerly only made
padlocks. Master makes good quality padlocks but they also sell some
real cheapies  (fortunately the cheapies LOOK like cheapies), and I
would expect decent  key-in-knob locksets from them, but don't really
know.

Feel free to E-mail me specific locksmithing questions.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Subject: Re: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 01:12:05 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.175741.1035@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM> davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord) writes:
=Here are some quotes from the "Disclosure Regarding Real Estate Agency
=Relationships" printed by the California Association of Realtors(R):
=
="		BUYER'S AGENT
="
="A selling agent can, with a Buyer's consent, agree to act as agent for
="the Buyer only. In these situations, the agent is not the Seller's
="agent even if by agreement the agent may receive compensation for services
="rendered, either in full or in part from the seller.
=
=(Followed by a list of the agent's obligations to the Buyer and to
=the Buyer and Seller)

That's what buyers agency means, all right. But what you have below is
called "dual agency". It occurs (in NJ) if an agent is a buyer's agent
for a client, yet works for the broker that listed the property in
question. It's a very confusing situation and one that should be
avoided, if possible.

=....
="		AGENT REPRESENTING BOTH BUYER AND SELLER
=....
="In representing both Seller and Buyer, the agent may not without the
="express permission of the respective party, disclose to the other party
="that the Seller will accept a price less than the listing price or that
="the Buyer will pay a price greater than the price offered.
=
=The copy I am looking at indicates that my listing agent was acting
=for "the Seller exclusively" and the selling agent was acting for
="the Buyer exclusively".

That means that the selling agent and the buyer had signed a contract
to that effect, and that the selling agent was to be considered a
buyer's agent.

=I would recomend (at least for Californians) that you ask to see this
=disclosure up front (usually you only see it as part of making or receiving
=an offer) and ask your agent exactly what it means.

In NJ, I believe that state law (but it may only be the county board of
realtors) requires that disclosure at the earliest opportunity. That is,
if you meet an agent for the first time and are house-hunting, that
agent is supposed to ask if you would like buyer's agent representation
or traditional "representation."
From: cnrdean@toxic (Sam Scalise)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Foundation Concrete Erosion
Date: 9 Nov 1992 19:49:58 GMT
Organization: U.C. College of Natural Resources
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: cnrdean@toxic.Berkeley.EDU
NNTP-Posting-Host: toxic.berkeley.edu


We have a 70-year old house with a basement.  A white-ish dust tends to
build up on the foundation, and when I sweep it off, the foundation
tends to "erode" a little bit.  Not enough to weaken the
foundation.  But, considering that we use the basement as living space,
it is not very desirable.

I suppose it is a result of water on the outside of the wall somehow
leaching through the foundation.  But, we are on the top of a hill, so
the only water is from irrigating the lawn, which we try not to
over-do.

In any case, I don't have the resources to dig up around the house and
put in a better drainage system or seal the foundation from the
outside.

I'm thinking about painting on some sort of sealant on the inside of
the foundation.  Anybody have suggestions for products?  Is my
foundation going to fall apart.  Any other comments or suggestions?

Thanks.
Sam
From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: OK to pound nails into concrete blocks?
Date: 6 Nov 92 13:25:39 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

I have cement blocks for my basement wall, and would like to hang things
from the wall.  Is there a certain kind of nail that can be used on walls
like this?  Is it better to pound nails into the joints- where the mortar is-
or into the blocks themselves?   If nails are not recommened, is there some
kind of bolt that can be used>

	Dave
From: chana@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (chana.nasamran)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: How to get rid of fireplace smoke smell? (Re: cleaning up fire place)
Date: 12 Nov 92 22:08:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

Is it normal to have smoke smell from a fireplace
even 2-3 days after a fire?  Last winter, I lit a fire 
in my fireplace for the 1st time and I didn't have this
problem.  Now, 3 days after my second use of the fireplace,
smoke smell still remains.  

By the way, I removed ashes and my fireplace and chimney are clean.
This time I added some wood to the "dura-flame" log.
It was wood for fireplace but I don't know what kind.
Is there any problem with the fireplace?
Should I avoid some kind of wood for fireplace?
Thank you in advance for any info./tips/hints.
-- 

--Chana.
cn@alux2.att.com
From: exubak@exu.ericsson.se (Becky Keifer)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Removing oil from driveway
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:58:40 GMT
Reply-To: exubak@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.



In article 92Nov8094610@trub.crd.ge.com, perley@trub.crd.ge.com (Donald P Perley) writes:
>In article <barrett.721082726@cc.gatech.edu> barrett@terminus.gatech.edu (James Barrett) writes:
>
>
>   tenants evidently had a problem with oil leaks in their car, because
>   there is quite a bit of oil at the top of the driveway.  Is there
>   any way to remove this or at least help stop it from being dragged into
>
We had the same problem and used Muric Acid (the acid that is used for pool maintenance).  We had some at  the
house to prepare some pave stones for sealing.  You need to be careful using it...wear gloves and try not to splash.
It worked very well.  We have a concrete drive and I do not know how it would work on asphalt.

Be sure to rinse the drive well with water afterwards.

          /Becky
From: dbj+@cs.cmu.edu (David B Johnson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Installing garage door openers
Date: 11 Nov 92 03:31:35 GMT
Distribution: world,local
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University, School of Computer Science

In article <1992Nov10.142254.195@inet.d48.lilly.com> Chad Miller <chad@lilly.com> writes:
>I'm trying (emphasize trying) to install a Genie 9550 1/2 hp 
>garage door opener.  I got to the part about mounting it at
>least 2 1/2 inches higher than the top of the tracks the door
>rolls on.  The spring for the door is about 2 1/2 inches higher
>than the track and then there is about a 1/2 inch between the
>top of the spring and the ceiling.  So, no room for the mounting
>bracket or the screw housing.
>
>ceiling ------------------------------
>  1/2 inch        |  ....  |
>spring  ((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))
>                  |  ````  |
>  2 inches        |        |
>                  ----------
>tracks  ===                        ===
>        ==                          ==
>        =                            =
>
>The manual explicitly says to place the thing at least 2 1/2 
>inches above the tracks.  What can I do?

What an interesting coincidence -- I've got this same kind of garage
door opener sitting on the floor here waiting for me to install it :-).
Since I haven't installed mine yet, the best answer I can give you is to
call Genie at 1-800-OK-GENIE, as it says all over the box and on the
cover of the manual for installation questions.

--
David B. Johnson                    School of Computer Science
E-mail: dbj@cs.cmu.edu              Carnegie Mellon University
Phone: (412) 268-7399               5000 Forbes Avenue
Fax: (412) 681-5739                 Pittsburgh, PA  15213-3891
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: OK to pound nails into concrete blocks?
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<1992Nov9.150707.17153@microware.com> <11102@rls.UUCP>
Date: 12 Nov 92 11:22:36

In article <11102@rls.UUCP> randy@rls.UUCP (randall l. smith) writes:

   All the recommendations I've seen are fine but I didn't see anyone address
   your question regarding pounding nails into the joints or block. 

   Always pound or screw into the joints.  Putting anything into the block
   invites cracking and eventual disintegration of the block.

?!  Putting anything into the joints invites quick pullout, especially
in old mortar.  You should not, however, "pound nails" into block.
The best solution is drilling holes and using either plugs (lead or
plastic) or concrete screws.

	-s
From: stever@meaddata.com (Steve Rothenberg)
Subject: Loose Floorboards
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:38:20 GMT
Distribution: usa

Our house has some loose floorboards upstairs (creeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek).
we are getting new carpeting, so I will be able to identify which
ones are the culprit. 
Question: how should I go about the fix?
	  1. nails and glue
          2. screws and glue
 	  3. just screws
 
 I was thinking about #2, but any suggestions, types of screws and
 glue, I would appreciate it.
 You can e-mail me directly, and I can sum it up an d post for everyone.
 
-- 
Steve Rothenberg              GO BROWNS                    FOR SALE: 
Mead Data Central             GO CAVS     _____     __o    '51 BOWMAN MANTLE
stever@meaddata.com           GO INDIANS ----      -\<,    INQUIRE WITHIN
stevermeaddata@uunet.uu.net             -----   ( )/ ( )  
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Subject: Re: Legal Advise on Double Escrow Accounts Please
Reply-To: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 18:42:06 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.005639.28710@kpc.com> kevinn@kpc.com (Kevin Nguyen) writes:
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>There months ago I deposited $3000.00 into the Escrow account for the house I wanted to buy.  However, the loan did not approve by the leander due to my credit history.  The sellers sold this house to another buyer and it schedules to close next week.  Ho
>wever, the sellers still hold my $3000.00 in the Escrow account and the Escrow account due to close next week.  Is this legal?  What should I do in this case?  How do I get my money back.


This advice may only apply to California:

You shouldn't have much trouble eventually getting your money back.
They can't cancel the escrow until you sign cancellation papers
and they can't sell to someone else until escrow is cancelled, so
just don't sign cancellation until they agree to return your deposit.

They could try to fight you over it but they have no chance of
winning since your offer almost certainly is contingent on your
getting a loan. Talk to your agent. Hopefully he is not also the
listing agent. If he is, you may want to talk to the escrow agent
personally.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Toilet leak...
From: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA (Bob Erkamp)
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:35:12 MDT
Reply-To: erkamp@JANUS.ARC.AB.CA
Organization: Alberta Research Council

In article <5000093@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com>, hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss) writes:
>Hi,
>  I have a toilet that leaks CLEAN water onto the floor after flushing.
>  The water collects in front and definitely is clean so I assume there
>  is a crack in the toilet along the path the water takes going from
>  the tank to the bowl. Is this repairable? Is there a simple sealer
>  that can stop the leak? Also, what is the average price of a new
>  toilet these days (ie. is the ROI on repairing worth the price of
>  a new, more efficient toilet)? 
>  I know that I'll have do some work with the toilet... Is it really
>  as easy at it looks?: 
>  -empty out water completely
>  -disconnect water line
>  -disconnect tank from bowl

I suspect this is where your problem is. There is a seal here that may need to 
be replaced.

Bob
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: better mouse trap needed
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 16:29:35 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.193930.9381@b11.b11.ingr.com> billj@b11.ingr.com (Bill Johnson) writes:
>
>I experienced a minor mouse problem last winter.  I let Orkin handle the
>problem.  They sprayed a white powder chemical into the areas we suspected the
>mouse to be travelling.  Apparently, mice clean themselves much like a cat does.
>When the mice lick the powder off their feet and ingest it, the chemical causes
>the mice to bleed internally.  This makes them thirsty, and they leave their
>hiding place in search of water.  By the time they reach the water, they are
>dead.  I found my two mice near the air conditioning condensation drain a few
>days after the chemial was applied.  This checmical breaks down in a very short 
>time, so there is no long-term danger to the residents of the home.  Of course,
>if you have mice problems again later, they'd have to come and spray again...

Forget Orkin and head for the grocery store and pick up some "Red Devil"
lye. Spread it out in the mouse or rat runs. Works like a charm, if you
don't have desireable little beasties who might tangle with it. Did Orkin
tell you what they used? I suspect it's lye.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If it were not possible to allow a little energetic
George Patterson -  | discussion between opposing factions, there would
                    | be no market for tire irons or band-aids.
                    |                             Sam Venable
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux)
Subject: Re: House Flies
Reply-To: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 13:42:31 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.203718.29625@Princeton.EDU>, bill@soil.Princeton.EDU 
(Bill Wichser) writes:

>We just purchased a house in central NJ which we are in the process of
>painting inside (among other things!).  When we put the heat on, flies come out
>from everywhere!  There must be 12 to 20 flies per room.

>Does anyone know where they are coming from?  We do not see any as long as the
>house is cold.  The house has been empty now for 2 weeks and yet they are still
>here.  Is there a way we can be assured of ridding the house of these things?

Do you have a fireplace or wood stove?  If you do, do you also store wood in
the house for more than a day (in other words, not burn the same day what you
bring in)?  If you're doing this, you may well be bringing in wood that's
hosting fly larvae which is hatching in the comfort of your home.

Katie
From: cori@carrera.wvus.org (Corinne Gregory)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: SEARS Consumer Relations Problems
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 92 17:44:55 PST
Organization: Private System

> >> > >Sears needs a major cleanup of their management, like a long-term
> >> > >
> >> > I have had plenty of hard times with Sears, and I am still young.
> >> > Chief example is a VCR my father in law bought for my wife.  Try to
> >> > get it cleaned under the extended warrentee? Ha!  I could have done it
> >> > faster and better and cheaper by going to local night classes and
> >> > earning a degree.
> 
> Home Depot, no Builder's Square).  So Sears is often one of only a few
> alternatives when it comes to appliances and tools.  Recently, I
> bought a Sears sump pump, which I then installed by myself.
> Unfortunately, I couldn't adjust the float switch to a reasonable
> setting.  At its best setting, the thing would turn on when there was
> already three inches of water in the basement.  I phoned Sears' 800
> service number (obtainable from the operators at their 800
> catalog number).  Sears arranged to have a serviceman come to my house
> to fix or replace the unit.  (Remember, I live in the boonies.)  The
> guy showed-up, determined that the float switch was indeed faulty and
> ordered a new one for me, all at no charge to me.  

You're altogether lucky.  We wasted 1 1/2 hours of our lives trying to
exchange a vacuum cleaner that came with no hardware to assemble it
with.  The appliance was purchased on-sale at a SEARS in one part of
town, and the next day we tried to return it in another store.  The
clerk tried to insist 1) that we couldn't have possibly bought it
at SEARS (even though we had the receipt), and 2) when that didn't work
we were told that we had to pay the difference in price between what
we paid, and the current price of the vacuum (it wasn't on sale at
THIS SEARS, I guess).  Anyway, we were just about ready to ask for
a manager, when the clerk capitulated.  We got an exchange vacuum,
and now we know why we don't shop at the store "Where America likes
to Flop."

- Corinne Gregory
  at home...


Corinne Gregory (cori@carrera.wvus.org)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rusty@nssdc.gsfc.nasa.gov (Kenneth Hall)
Subject: Re: How to get rid of fireplace smoke smell? (Re: cleaning up fire place)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:02:00 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.220859.19844@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, chana@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (chana.nasamran) writes...
>Is it normal to have smoke smell from a fireplace
>even 2-3 days after a fire?  Last winter, I lit a fire 
>in my fireplace for the 1st time and I didn't have this
>problem.  Now, 3 days after my second use of the fireplace,
>smoke smell still remains.  
> 
>By the way, I removed ashes and my fireplace and chimney are clean.
>This time I added some wood to the "dura-flame" log.
>It was wood for fireplace but I don't know what kind.
>Is there any problem with the fireplace?
>Should I avoid some kind of wood for fireplace?
>Thank you in advance for any info./tips/hints.
>-- 
> 
>--Chana.
>cn@alux2.att.com

I am not sure about the type of wood that is best to avoid for 
fireplaces but I can give a tip for getting rid of the smokey smell in 
the house.  One tip that I heard of a long time ago that people have 
used in homes that are smoke damaged is to set out a bowl full of 
fresh coffee ground in the affected area.  The coffee is a very 
absorbant material and will help to reduce/eliminate the odors from 
the smoke.  

Rusty