HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rwu@ismdqa.intel.com (Ronnie Wu )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Vega fence
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:29:39 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Intel Corp.


	I bought the Vega fence system for my Sears table saw from a local
tool store this weekend. The installation and tuning took about one hour.
Everything went well except I need to enlarge few mounting holes on the
table saw and drill one hole in the rear rail. The 2 mounting holes on the 
Sears table saw is 16.5" apart, the fence rail is setup for 16". The front
rail has enough adjustment that I didn't need to drill any new holes. 
	Another modification is if you still want to use the spliter/blade
guard, you need to cut out a notch to accommodate the wider rear rail.

	I also looked the Biesemeyer when I was in the store, some how I
found moving the fence is much difficult and sloppier. Maybe its because
of being a display model. Vega has the micro adjust that Biesemeyer does
not have. The rails on the Biesemeyer has bunch pre-drilled holes to fit
most table saws, not like Vega which has 2 holes on the rear rail and 2 
brackets to hold the front rail. 

	Let me know if you need more details.

Ron
rwu@mattec.intel.com  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu (Kurt Baudendistel)
Subject: How to Finish Food-Contacting Surfaces?
Originator: baud@kepler.eedsp.gatech.edu
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 20:08:25 GMT

I need info on how to finish surfaces in the kitchen. Practical 
experience has taught me that ...

  1. Unfinished is good for some things (pizza peel).
  2. Cutting boards should be finished with just mineral oil.  
  3. There is a special ``salad bowl finish'' sold. 
     How does it work?

But what about other surfaces, like the inside of a veggie bin 
(potatoes and onions)? Can I finish the outside and just leave the
inside unfinished? Won't that look funny? Should the inside be
finished with a hard surface to be easier to clean?

I would :-) think that pine (often used for kitchen furniture) needs 
staining to look good, but it also needs poly to protect the soft wood
from dents and grease spatters. How does this jive with finishing the
inside?

-- 
Kurt Baudendistel ---                                           --- GRA
Georgia Tech, School of Electrical Engineering, Atlanta, GA  30332-0250
internet: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu              uucp: gatech!gt-eedsp!baud
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga)
Subject: Bookcase backing designs (Summary)
Reply-To: jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga)
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix, Sacramento, Ca.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 01:55:32 GMT

Thanks to those who responded to my question about bookcase
backings.  The overall concensus was to use something more
than veneer only.  Over time, the weight of the bookcase
may start to weigh heavily on the veneer.

The other suggestion is to glue veneer to 1/4" plywood.  This
would prevent the weight of the bookcase from ruining the
case.  

It appears that the best situation is to spring for the 1/4"
veneer plywood.  Although I hate to waste one side, I guess
it's probably the best solution.

Thanks again to all who responded.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------
- jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US    What else can I say?             -
-------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mckim@sdd.hp.com (Jim McKim)
Subject: Re: Designing bookcases.
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1992 21:51:21 GMT

In article <1992Apr7.015439.5342@sactoh0.sac.ca.us> jhp@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US (Jim H. Puga) writes:
>
>I was thinking of using quarter-inch veneer plywood but I don't
>want to pay for having both sides finished.  I haven't been able
>to locate plywood with veneer on one side.  Does such a thing
>exist.
>

I can buy birch, oak, and mahogany plywood at the local home centers
(Home Depot and Home Club) that have a lower grade back. The 1/4" 
stuff has luann (Philippine mahogany) backs; the 3/4" ply has a lower
grade version of the face veneer. Both are considerably cheaper than
plywood with both faces with grade A2. I don't know about the plywood
with other species of face veneer like you would find in a wood outlet.

Another option is doing your own veneering - applying the veneer of your
choice to a lower cost plywood. The plywood would still need a smooth
face to get a good veneering job. Veneers and tools are available from
a number of mailorder outlets.

>The other method is applying the veneer directly to the back of
>the bookcase.  The veneer would be the only backing and am wondering
>if this would be strong enough to work.
>

You mean just a layer of thin (~1/32") veneer joined directly to the rear
edges of the shelves and uprights? Uh-uh. No way, Jose. The back of the
case serves as a shear panel and is the only thing keeping the case from
racking. You can do anything *you* want, but *I* would never build a
piece of casework of such flimsy construction.


--
Jim McKim
Hewlett-Packard Co., San Diego Technical Graphics Division
Internet : mckim@sdd.hp.com 

Don't you just hate that feeling you get when you realize you have just
made a mistake but it is too late ...? Where's that board stretcher when
I need it?
From: buffum@sw.stratus.com (Jeff Buffum)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How old is good!
Date: 6 Apr 92 16:04:10 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.

Several postings to this list have said that the old Craftsmen table saws were
much better made than the one's today.  In one posting today, a person was
talking about a 15 year old craftsmen.  That would make it circa 1977 which is
certainly after Craftsman switched to Taiwan.  So the question of the month is:

When did Craftsman stopping making good table saws?
-- 
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Jeffrey Buffum                  Phone:    (508) 490-6822            |
| Stratus Computer                Internet: buffum@vos.stratus.com    |
| Marlboro, MA 01752              Fax:      508-624-7488              |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 16:36:24 GMT


I recently made a bookcase that, when finished, looked like a
good piece of work with dadoed shelf notches but actually
required nothing more than a saw and screws.  The trick is a
variation on the "cleat" design: make your cleats out of 3/8"
or 1/2" plywood, and have them as tall as the space between
shelves.  The sides of the bookcase are 3/8" plywood, so that
the total side thickness is 3/8 side + 3/8 cleat = 3/4".  This
is heavier than many people make their bookcases, but I load
mine so heavily that anything smaller gets ugly fast.  (I add
at least 12 feet of shelving a year, so this is an evolving
design that has progressed with my library.)

The back of the bookcase is 1/4" plywood.  You can either
screw the back directly to the back of the shelves for
stiffness, or add a horizontal cleat under each shelf.  This
makes a bookcase strong enough to climb on when you don't have
a library ladder handy.

My usual construction technique is screw & glue.  On my latest
bookcase I used some leftover construction adhesive and 1/2"
galvanized decking screws because I had them around.  I
sand the front, paint the whole thing with white enamel, then
put moldings on the front if I'm feeling decorative instead of
utilitarian.

The following is obviously not to scale.  Each ply of the side
is 3/8, the shelves are 3/4" spanning 36", and I usually make
shelf heights of 12" on heavy bookcases.  

 +-+-+                      +-+-+
 | | |                      | | |
 | +--------------------------+ |
 | +--------------------------+ |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | +--------------------------+ |
 | +--------------------------+ |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | +--------------------------+ |
 | +--------------------------+ |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | +--------------------------+ |
 | +--------------------------+ |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 | | |                      | | |
 +---+                      +---+
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Good stores or other WW attractions in SF Bay area (?)
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:52:47 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <3760@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU>, esr@perseus.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Edwin S. Russell) writes:
|> In article <1992Apr15.145647.5509@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com>  
|> wentzel@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Kevin Wentzel) writes:
|> > Southern Lumber, San Jose, Alma St. and Montery Highway.
|> 
|> I think Southern Lumber is the place that did our back fence a few years  
|> ago and is no longer in business.  Maybe somebody else can confirm.

Southern Lumber is still in full operation and doesn't "do fences". 
Their selection of exotic hardwoods is truly impressive and high quality.
However, they're rather expensive.  

I believe the original poster mentioned visiting the SF/Berkeley area.
If so, I'd recommend McBeath Hardwoods on Ashby (I think) in Berkeley.  
Amazing array of exotics. Speaking of pricey, a sales person there told
me they pride themselves of being the most expensive in the country.  
They had some great african rosewood plywood for $600.00 a sheet....

-joel
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: withrow@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (JAMES WITHROW)
Subject: Re: Sears router problem--Am I alone?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: na
Date:  9 Apr 1992 15:14 EST  

In article <Apr.9.13.17.50.1992.25660@dartagnan.rutgers.edu>, lfischer@dartagnan.rutgers.edu (Lfischer) writes...
>
>Wait, I have the 1 horse router and I experience the same thing!!
>inability and feeble-mindedness that is...
> 
>Larry Fischer

I had a job 10 years ago making picnic tables.  All the wood had the edges 
rounded over so we used it alot.  The owner liked SEARS equipment.  We would 
destroy a SEARS router once a month.  Those routers were used after 1 month,
(about 10 hours of running).  I probably have 40 hours on my current non 
SEARS router and it is still working great.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Withrow                         |  If it can't be done, why does you  
NASA LeRC  MS: 333/2                |  boss make you do it anyway?
21000 Brookpark Rd.                 |
Cleveland OH  44135                 |   I can't spell and I don't care!
(216) 433-8315                      |     withrow@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: hjeat@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (Jerry Eaton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sliding table refit...
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:21:27 GMT
Organization: Chevron Exploration & Production Services, Houston, TX.

In article <1992Apr9.121626.22583@HQ.Ileaf.COM> richer@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Al Richer) writes:
>
> Last weekend, I had the pleasure of inheriting a Sears 10", belt-driven
>tablesaw built when Sears built good tools. As I presently own a radial-arm
>saw, I really don't have a place in my shop for both. I was wondering if
>anyone had seen (or heard of) an aftermarket sliding table like the ones
>presently available on the new Ryobi precision cutting system.
>
> Yes, I am aware I can build a sliding table cover from plywood and lock
>it into the table slots, but I'd prefer something a little more permanent..
>
>Also, does anyone have any recommendations for a good aftermarket blade guard?
>the idiot who owned this saw before (my brother.. 8*)  ) took off the blade
>guard and threw it away, and I don't think Sears is going to have parts in
>stock for this old codger...
>

As recently as last year I was able to get parts for a circa 1968 Craftsman
saw. IMO, it's definitely worth checking with the local Sears special order
desk. All you need is the model number of the saw. You just might find the
blade guard is available.
-- 
           Jerry Eaton
  hjeat@usho29.hou281.chevron.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wartik@software.org (Steve Wartik)
Subject: Seek Advice on Gluing Mortise & Tenon Joints
Organization: Software Productivity Consortium, Herndon, Virginia
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 13:25:43 GMT

Well, I have just about finished my first project that uses mortise and tenon
joinery.  (First joint: ~4 hours; now down to ~0.5 hours per joint; not bad,
but a ways to go... but I digress.)  This may seem like an obvious question,
but what suggestions can anyone give me on the gluing stage?  Do I glue both
the mortise and tenon?  Is it necessary to glue the other faces as well?
Any hints on how I tell what the right amount of glue is?

				Thanks,

					-- Steve Wartik
					   wartik@software.org
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:3059 misc.consumers.house:6208
From: staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Picket Fence
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:00:54 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Eastman Kodak

>>I need to put in a picket fence and I'd like to solicit opinions on
>>what to use for posts.  I'd prefer wood, but I was wondering about
>>the durability of using the metal posts (like the ones used for chain
>>link fences).  The fence will be for the front yard, so I want it to look 
>>nice.  The neighborhood is so-so, so it doesn't have to be fantastic. I was 
>>thinking of using all cedar and painting it.  (My neighbor wants all chain-
>>link and I am trying to avoid this.)

There's products on the market now which are vinyl (or something similar).
Not vinyl-coated, but color-impregnated all-vinyl, formed to look like posts,
rails, gazebos, you name it!  Now I wouldn't claim that this stuff is as
aesthetically pleasing as wood up close, but to extend your half-metal
half-wood idea, what about vinyl posts and wood rails and pickets?  I
imagine the vinyl would last forever in the ground, and would hardly be
noticed (especially from the picket side).

I think most of the larger landscaping or lawn/garden places handle this
stuff.

>>My questions are:
>>	1.  If I use the wood posts, is there something I can treat
>>	them with to help prevent termite/weather destruction?
>>	How long can I expect them to last?
>
>Use either pressure treated douglas fir or redwood.  The opinion I heard
>most frequently when I was a (novice) carpenter was that the strength 
>of the pressure treated was reduced to just about that of redwood.  
>Redwood is probably more rot resistant and definately is not chemically
>treated, if that is a concern.

Although my parent's redwood posts had some damage at about 18 years, and
were replaced at 25 (in spite of adequate drainage, etc.)

>>	oil-based may crack and discolor in the sun.  The water-base had
>>	the potential to peel though.  What results have you had?  Will
>>	either work well on the metal posts (if I go that way)?

Most of the metal posts you can buy are galvanized or aluminum, and you'll
have a tough time getting paint to stick to them.  Even with non-galvanized
steel, you probably won't be able to use the same paint as the wood portion,
which sounds like a maintance headache to me.  (the vinyl posts would never
need painting, though I don't know what range of colors they come in.  White
at least).

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Good luck at finding any-one to respond to your request. I also posted to this
group a while back looking for any information on scroll saw patterns and saw
my post slowly die of old age. If you get any other postings besides mine you
should count your blessings. 
 
 


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Re: What to look for when buying a used Table Saw?
Reply-To: jims@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 92 20:13:58 GMT

In article <ktp9hgINNilb@news.bbn.com>, tlaughli@star-trek.bbn.com (Tom Laughlin) writes:
|> 
|> I'm going to look at used tablesaws this evening.
|> I have a Craftsman TS  with a cast aluminum surface that is not exactly true.
|> One of my options to correct this problem is to buy a used saw.
|> (I can't afford to purchase a new saw)
|> I'm also considering having the surface machined.
|> 
|> One saw is a 15 year old Craftsman, Cast iron top, 1 HP motor, 2 rip 2 crosscut
|> and 1 dado blade, mitre gauge, fence (I don't know the model) ~$200.00
|> 
|> The other saw is a old Delta model # 34-300, cast iron top, 2.5 HP motor,
|> fence, mitre gauge,  ~$300.00
|> 
|> The saw I have know is a direct drive and I think these are both belt
|> drive saws.  I've noticed that most of the higher priced saws have
|> belts.  What are some of the pros and cons of Direct Drive and Belt Drive
|> saws?
|> 
|> Well anyway I have a check list of things to check for on these used saws.
|> 
|> Depth of Cut:
|> Fence at both ends 90 degrees to table:
|> Ability to adjust fence with ease parallel to blade:
|> A truly flat surface:
|> Extentions - Steel, Aluminum, Iron:
|> With blade fully raised 90 degrees on both sides:
|> Amount of rust:
|> Saw Documents:
|> Blade to mitre guide:
|> Functionality and performance:
|> 
|> Am I missing anything?  
|> I'm taking 2 squares, 1 blade, calipers, 1" oak board, 2 straight edges.
|> 
|> Thanks Tom Laughlin (tlaughli@mystery.bbn.com)

Tom, I think that you should add wear and tear to your list.
I read an article just recently, the magazine title
escapes me (possibly Woodcuts), where they talked about buying a used
table saw.  The guy bought a used Delta UniSaw and had to put a few
hundred $'s into it to get it working properly.   They also mentioned
that if a shop is selling the machine, there's a good chance its near
the end of it's life, barring a major overhaul ($$$$). 

Let me know if you want me to dig up the article a forward you a copy.

-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dust Collector Static?
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:11:12 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati


Static problems in a dust collector can be very real, but
solution is quite simple -- in theory.  Raise the relative
humidity to 35 or 40%, this will dramatically reduce static
production.  It works in computer rooms.  When we were try
to reduce a similar problem in our plastics shop, our resident
ME walked in and said raise humidity -- of course he's right!  Actually
doing it may be more or less difficult depending of specific
circumstances.  But, it does work!



+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: wojcik@crl.dec.com (Ted Wojcik)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sharpening Plane Irons
Keywords: plane iron, sharpening
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:53:55 GMT
Reply-To: wojcik@crl.dec.com
Organization: DEC Cambridge Research Lab

In article <19286@sybase.sybase.com>, hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen) writes:
> 
> 
> That is, the corners are a bit curved.  This is not a huge affect, but it is
> noticable.  At first I though, "Great, I've ruined the edge and now I'll
> have to re-grind it."  But I installed it in the plane and started using
> it a bit to test out the edge. It cuts incredibly well; ultra thin strips of
> wood peel off like the layers of an onion, just beautiful.  Pushing the
> plane felt like I was pushing clay. 
> 
> Comments anyone?
> 
> 	Howard
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>   Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
>   hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
>   Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406 

An instructor in handtool woodworking I once had taught me to knock the corners off
the plane blades with a couple of swipes on the fine stone once sharpening was done.
He said that it was necessary to keep the plane from leaving gouges in the work
when flattening a large area.  I've always done this and had good success.

I'm not sure if that's what you're seeing the results of or something more pronounced.

/Ted
--
Standard Disclaimer:

    The opinions expressed above are those of the author and do not
    represent the official views of  Digital Equipment Corporation.

Ted Wojcik, Systems Manager (wojcik@crl.dec.com)
Digital Equipment Corporation, Cambridge Research Lab
1 Kendall Sq. Bldg. 700 Flr. 2 Cambridge, MA, 02139, USA
(617)621-6652
From: flato@icefloe.dartmouth.edu (Gregory M Flato)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What about Built-in Bookcases
Date: 17 Apr 92 13:56:12 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

news@walter.bellcore.com writes:

>I don't really want to build a series of independent pieces and tie
>them together.  I want the wall (about 10 ft long) to be one large
>bookcase.  The problem I'm worried about is if I have a common vertical
>piece between two compartments, the dados let into the piece will
>leave too little material for comfort.  I.e.:

>      |      |
>      |vert. |
>      |piece |
>---------  ---------
> shelf  |  |  shelf
>        |* |               * Is this too thin?
>---------  ---------
>      |      |
>      |      |
>      |      |

You might consider using adjustable shelf hardware, either the metal strips
with square hole in them which you mount in a shallow vertical dado (small
metal clips fit these holes and support the shelf), or my preference, the
small metal or plastic 'pegs' that fit in a series of holes drilled into the 
vertical piece. As I see it, there are two advantages, you don't weaken the
vertical piece and the shelves are adjustable. The disadvantage may be that
you don't like the way it looks. If you go this route, you would probably have
to use plywood backing for the unit because the shelves do not provide any
strength to the structure. Many of the Kitchen cabinet books describe this
method of shelf building in some detail.
	Cheers,
		Greg