HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cris@cm.deakin.OZ.AU (Christopher Welsh)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Wanted U.S. Prices for Pentax Z10 w/28-80 FA; Z1 w/28-105 FA
Date: 23 Jan 1993 12:10:33 GMT
Organization: Deakin University, Geelong, Australia
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: gollum.cm.deakin.edu.au


My friend is going over to the U.S. and wants to know a few prices.

The Pentax Z10 with 28-80 FA lens (Power Zoom) is worth $700.00 Australian.

THe Pentax Z1 with 28-105 FA Lens (Power Zoom) is worth $1600.00 Aust.

He tells me these items may be called something slightly different in the
U.S., so I wont be suprised if you don't recall the models listed. But if
anyone has a copy of some net reviews, and it is not too much trouble, could
you email me a copy.

regards
Christopher W



--
Deakin University          			Chris Welsh
Department of Computing and Maths		cris@aragorn.cm.deakin.oz.au
----------------------------------
Everybody has enormous potential........ if only you could see what I can see.
From: finn@isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How dangerous are developer chemicals?
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:49:39 GMT
Reply-To: finn@dalek.isi.edu (Greg Finn)
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <EXJTMM.93Jan26103926@ida28.tts.lth.se> exjtmm@tts.lth.se (Thommy M. Malmstr|m) writes:

>The problem with darkroom chemicals is mostly when you throw it out in
>the sink. It's a lot of harmful toxic silver (and maybe selenium) and
>other toxic solutions that is flushed straight to the environment.

	I suggest that you check out Kodak's publications concerning
photographic effluent re: silver ion discharge, and Eaton's book on
photographic chemistry, among others.  Concerning elemental silver's
toxicity, it is served on Moghul-style Indian food in foil form and it
is indeed a quite edible part of the dish...although I hear of nil
nutritive value.

	From what I have read, the toxic silver ion discharge from
photograpic effluent is largely a myth.  First, the silver is
primarily complexed.  Second the particular silver ions produced in
solution which are not complexed are not particularly toxic to the
microorganisms used in sewage treatment.  For example, a home B&W
darkroom is not considered a threat to a septic tank.

	But don't take my word for it.  Please go read about it, and
if someone out there who is an expert on silver photographic effluent
knows differently, please speak up.  I do not want to misinform anyone
about this.
--
Gregory Finn	(310) 822-1511
Information Sciences Institute, Marina Del Rey, CA 90292
From: feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:20:50 GMT
Subject: Paper Pre-Soak?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

     Would pre-soaking B&W fiber paper in water just before development
reduce the amount of chemicals absorbed? Is it worth it?

Bob
From: laurap@neuro.duke.edu (Laura Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: TMax and D76
Keywords: developer
Date: 27 Jan 93 18:12:25 GMT

Yes, it's me again with ANOTHER TMax question!

TMax developer is rather expensive, and I was hoping to use D76 when I run out
of what I have now...I've used D76 before, but not with TMax. Any comments? 
I've heard that TMax grain is mushy when developed with TMax developer (I
haven't noticed anything so far); does D76 make for tighter grain?

email, please, to laurap@neuro.duke.edu

thanks!
laura
From: dong@umiacs.umd.edu (Dong Chen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Question about N90s and F4s
Date: 25 Jan 93 08:43:29 GMT
Organization: UMIACS, University of Maryland, College Park, MD 20742

Hello,

Could somebody compare how much is the diff. between N90s and F4s ?

Also, what's the cheapest price should I expect for a new F4s ?

Thanks,
From: IO80861@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Damon Kiesow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Plastic Canon
Date: 23 Jan 93 17:46:15 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System

Just a question, asuming many of those out there with the intense
dislike of "plastic" are Nikon owners. Exactly how "solid" do
many of the mid-range Nikons "feel". I have used them (4004-8008)
only very infrequently, but compared to the F4, they seemed pretty
flimsy also, more so toward the bottom of the line, though I admit.
I have heard complaints from a happy F3 user that even the 8008 wasn't
up to his durability "standards." Of course  he is from New York and
may use the F3 as a weapon on occasion :)

Damon Kiesow / IO80861@Maine / 71131,1635 / 207-581-3059
**A happy EOS1 user who does wish the AE2 "felt" more like the EOS630**
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: keithh@bnr.ca (Keith Hanlan)
Subject: Minolta 7xi (was Re: Minolta Maxxum 5400i flash)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:43:52 GMT

In article <katan.16.727623422@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca> katan@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca (Kim A. Tan) writes:
>In article <1993Jan20.191420.29629@convex.com> finger@convex.com (Jay Finger) writes:
>
>>I've got a new 7xi, and I need a flash for it.  Has anybody out there had
>>any experiences with Minolta's 5400i flash?  Good, bad, etc?  In short, 
>>is it worth a hoot?
>
>Good to hear someone is using Minolta Maxxum 7xi. I am thinking of buying 
>one myself. By the way, do you have any comments about your new 7xi? I would 
>like to know before I go out and buy one. Thanks.

I traded up my 7000i for a 7xi and am quite happy with it. Perhaps the
single greatest improvement that is noticed immediately is the
brightness of the view-finder. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere
else but it was the first thing I noticed. I wear glasses and even
with my eye held away from the glass, I can easily read the
view-finder panel information and judge contrast.

One of the major reasons I bought the camera was the hope that its
ergonomics would be better than the 7000i. I really hated using my
left hand to manipulate the Func and Mode buttons on the left side of
the top. This concern has been answered successfully but I wish that
the display panel contained as much information as the viewfinder. The
grip-start and eye-start is pretty fancy but I'd rather have it off
most of the time.

I've only used it for a few rolls of film so far and haven't seen the
results yet. Tonight, my brother is delivering a 3500xi flash and
hand-strap to go with it. I'm looking forward to trying this stuff out
in Rome and Alaska later this spring.

Any questions, drop me a line,
Keith Hanlan  KeithH@bnr.ca  Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada 613-765-4645
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Moon Illusion (Lunar magnification)
Date: 24 Jan 1993 12:07:14 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


The interesting thing about this question, of course, is that for all intents
and purposes the moon is at a constant distance from the viewer.  IN fact,
if you isolate the moon from the horizon even while it is at the horizon
it will look basically the same size as in the zenith.

The explanation I have read most often is simply that at the horizon there
are other objects which provide a comparison of size with the moon, while
up in the sky there is only the moon surrounded by a huge, overpowering
object (the heavens).

Then there is also some atmospheric effects of scattering light and
since the atmosphere is thicker at ground level there is more
diffusion and hence the image may be a bit more spread out.

If you hold up your thumb at arms length you will block out the moon
with the last joint on you thumb, and the same relationship occurs
no matter where the moon is in the sky.

brian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: kristine@neopath.wa.com (Kristine Kaleszewski)
Subject: Re: How Autofocus works?
Organization: NeoPath
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 23:39:53 GMT

I found out that you have to be careful which is meant by autofocus.  
Some cameras are intelligent and figure out exactly what you
want to focus on.  Other cameras actaully one, two or three ranges
and it picks ones of them.  This means what you really wanted to focus
on may be blurry.  I don't remember which brands are which because it's
been a while since I shopped around, but I just had to ask.

Kristine
kristine@neopath.wa.com
From: chopin@twics.co.jp
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Minolta XE-7 databack sought
Date: 27 Jan 93 18:50:02 GMT
Organization: TWICS, Tokyo, Japan

I'm looking for a used databack for my Minolta XE-7.  Does anyone have one to
sell, or know of a good source?
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: The much requested film list
Date: 24 Jan 93 21:28:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: qiclab.1993Jan24.212830.24777
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.

See the January 1993 issue of Peterson's Photographic.  There is a
very nice 15 page article on all films available for 35mm work,
color and B&W.  I can't say whether they really found ALL the 
possible films...but they do cover over 100 different ones, in depth
with good useful info on each one.

On each film they try and give information on type of film, speed,
exposure time rating, processing, grain, resolving power and available
film lengths.  They also have a paragraph on each film with description
of it's intended use, and overall quality.  

Well worth getting the magazine just for this article.

-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
From: mic@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Marc Clarke)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 18:45:57 GMT
Subject: Re: When does price beat out the best choice for you?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Ft. Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Get what you will be satisfied with, lest you be dissatisfied with
what you got.  

I have both an 80-200 (Rokkor/Leitz) and a 60-300 (Tamron SP) for my
battered old Minolta.  I use the 80-200 much more since it is faster.
I carry the 60-300 when I can only carry one lense due to weight and I
know I will have to deal with a wide range of focal lenghs.  I also
compromise and carry faster film for the wider range, slower lense.

I own lenses in both the focal ranges you are speaking of.

I find the fast 80-200 to be a very general purpose lense.  I carry it
with a 24mm and consider myself well equipped for any situation or
shot.  Hiking, scenics, bicycling, touristing, whatever.

The 60-300 I would use for bright sunlight and rapidly changing
framing.  Can you say, "football game shot from the sidelines?"  I
knew you could.  :-)  With a motor and on a tall, sturdy monopod (Bogen
3231) it is hard to beat (unless, of course, I had one with a faster
f/ stop...).  But then, I am already shooting ISO 400 or faster (much
faster) to stop the action in the sports event and help mitigate lense
shake.

My advice?  Go with the faster 80-200.  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Film Reccomendations Summary
Date: 23 Jan 93 17:39:09 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

agosta@mred.llnl.gov (Keith Agosta) quoted an anonymous recommendation:
> You didn't mention what format you're using so I'll assume that it's 35mm.
> In thinking of doing b/w landscapes it's important to remember that Ansel
> used mainly an 8x10 view camera.  His smallest format for landscape was the
> 6x6 Hasselblad.  So sharpness and lack of grain will be very important in
> choice of film for using in a 35mm camera.  There are really only 2 choices:
> Tmax 100 and Agfapan 25.

Also Kodak Technical Pan and Ilford Pan F Plus - Ilford are claiming
that the latter is the finest-grained film now available.

But, if you know how to use the effect, grainy landscapes can be just as
interesting as those shot on these films.  Kodak Recording Film 2475 and
Konica Infrared 750nm come to mind.  (Expensive, though).

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wday@vaxb.acs.unt.edu
Subject: F3 + Access for sale
Organization: University of North Texas
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:42:15 GMT

 Nikon F3 and accessories for sale:
 ----------------------------------------------------------------
 F3 with Brightscreen "K" screen (circle/microprism) 
         and DE-2 finder (excellent condition/no brassing!)  $500
   * AS-4 hot shoe adapter for F3                            $ 20
 MD-4 Motor drive for F3  (excellent condition/no brassing)  $200
   * MC-4 remote cord for MD-4                               $ 20
 
 Nikkor 18mm  F4.0 this one has a ding in the front elem. doesn't
         appear to affect the image at all                   $250
 Nikkor 50mm  F1.4 AIS (excellent)                           $150
 Nikkor 100mm F2.8 Series E (excellent)                      $100
 
 Nikon SB-16a TTL Flash unit (excellent condition)
   with Lumiquest Ultrasoft Bounce/Diffuser                  $175
   * AS-11 adapter - mount SB-16 on tripod/light stand       $ 20
 Quantum Battery 1 with adapter for SB-16 (Ex condx)         $165
 
 Cokin "A" (3"x3") filter set with 46 & 52mm adapters and holder:
        Diffuser 1 (A083)
        Diffuser 2 (A084)         all filters/holders in
        Pastel 1   (A086)         good-to-excellent condx
        3.5 Polarizing (B160)     includes lens shade/cover
        Skylight   (A230)
        10-filter empty plastic case    _as a set only_      $ 40
 
 Hoya Set/3 55mm closeup filters (+1 +2 +3) & 52:55 adapter  $ 25
 
 Domke 2"wide no-slip Grey camera strap (good condx)         $ 20
 Domke F1x large camera bag. Sand colored 
        with 4-lens insert holder                            $ 80
 ----------------------------------------------------------------
       Sell all or parts - discounts for multiple items!
 ----------------------------------------------------------------
 Personal checks OK - take 10 days after receipt to clear. 
 Money order / certified check - no clearance
 Fort Worth / Dallas area? We can arrange to demo everything!
 7 day (after you receive it) return priveledge, excluding shpg.
 
 Questions?  email me @  CompuServe: 76703,376
                         Internet:   WDay@unt.edu   
                            or       76703.376@CompuServe.Com
             or phone @  (817) 232-0206
 ----------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Canon EOS A2
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:50:55 GMT

In <1993Jan26.154040.14626@cbfsb.cb.att.com> rsojka@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.e.sojka) writes:

>I'm considering the purchase of a Canon EOS A2. Does anyone have any opinions
>on this camera? What is a good price? What are the good points and
>disadvantages? Batteries etc.. Any opionions would be appreciated.
>Thanks in advance.

Overall, I like the camera.  I'm sure the Canon brochure details all of
the advantages, so I'll just mention a few that stand out to me:
- QCD
- VG10
- quiet operation
- spotmetering
- 5 focusing sensors with cross sensor in the middle
- 5-segment OTF metering coupled to AF sensor
- flash exp. comp. usable with any flash
- interchangeable screens

Some disadvantages:
- uses lithium batteries (and it's pretty hungry)
- no external power booster available
- can't shoot IR film
- no focusing screens with manual focusing aids
    (maybe Beattie will do something)
- selecting AF point may be a bit unintuitive at first
- flash sync could be faster
- doesn't have the nice manual exposure scale of the EOS 5

>Bob

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: reuber@cdv.eri.harvard.edu (Kent Reuber)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Maxxum 5xi Expansion Cards
Date: 26 Jan 93 01:25:28 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Schepens Eye Research Institute

In article <1993Jan23.025300.3367@netcom.com>, bcherkas@netcom.com (Brian
Cherkas) wrote:
> 
> I have a question for you 5xi owners and others. I am getting
> back into photography after a lapse of many years. I purchased
> a new 5xi recently and wonder if the expansion cards are worth
> having. I know most of the things the expansion cards do can
> be done manually, but being more on the novice side would they
> be worth it? I'm interested more in the special application
> cards rather than the feature cards. Thanks.
> 

I keep the auto-bracketing card in my 7xi all the time. That way, I can hit
the card button to turn it on, click the shutter and I get my bracketing
quickly. (Especially since the 7xi shoots at ~4 fps.) Minolta now has a
bracket 2 card that apparently does flash and non-flash bracketing as well.
They brought this out with the 9xi, so make sure that it's compatible with
the 5xi before you buy. 

I also own the multi-spot metering card and the multiple exposure card, but
I must admit that I don't use them.

One card I'm thinking about is the Custom xi. I'd like to change the system
so that the film tip is left exposed on rewind. I'd also like the default
flash setting to be OFF rather than automatic. I find the flash often pops
up when I don't really want it.

Kent Reuber
reuber@cdv.eri.harvard.edu
reuber@world.std.com
From: dykema@bvc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: CANON F-1 QUESTION
Date: 27 Jan 93 17:09:12 CST
Organization: Buena Vista College, Storm Lake, IA

Here's an incident which happened to me a few weeks ago.  I had just loaded 
a new roll of film in my Canon F-1.  It has an AE finder and I had the 
thing set on aperture priority mode,  that is auto shutter.  I closed the 
back of the camera and fired the shutter with the lense cap on.  Naturally 
the shutter stays open for a long time, so in order to get things going I 
switched the shutter speed dial off auto to 1000th/sec.  The shutter closed 
and I advanced the film and fired the shutter again.  Nothing happened.  I 
tried everything, new battery, different shutter speeds, back to auto, 
everything!!!  Finally I remember that the camera has a feature which will 
fire the shutter at 125th/sec if there is no battery power.  So I take the 
battery out and sure enough the shutter fires.  (By now I've taken the film 
out)  Put the battery in, nothing!  Take it out, it works!  About the third 
time everything returns to normal, even with the old battery!!!  Evidently 
when I switched the shutter dial off the auto setting while the shutter was 
open did something.  I just don't know what.  I'd done it before without 
incident, but I'm sure not going to do it again unless I know what 
happened.  I've shot several rolls of film through the camera since without 
incident.  Any Canon techies out there???

Dennis Dykema
IN%"DYKEMA@BVC.edu"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: parker@ultra.Kodak.COM (Martin Parker)
Subject: Re: Canon Remote Control RC-1 (for Elan, 10s, etc.) Question
Keywords: Canon question
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 14:13:02 GMT

In article <9214@lee.SEAS.UCLA.EDU> jcchang@paragon.icsl.ucla.edu (James Chang) writes:
>Does anyone know the signal format of Canon remote control RC-1 (for Elan,
>10s, etc.)? I'd like to make one if possible. I know I can buy one for $20,
>and I probably can't make it any cheaper, but I am still interested in
>knowing. If anyone has made one, could you also send me the schematics?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>James

I am interested in this too. I'd like to add a timer, use different
batteries, etc. 

Thanks,

Mart

parker@kodak.com
--
___________________________

Martin A. Parker
Eastman Kodak Company                     
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: glenm@bnr.ca (Glen Martin)
Subject: 4x5: View vs. Field?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 13:28:37 GMT

I've been thinking about picking up a 4x5 view or field camera. I've
been thinking about a field, because I like to shoot occasionally
outdoors, which often means a bit of a hike. However, I expect that
most of my use would be in the studio.

Now, some field cameras seem to have reasonably full movements. Notable
here would be the Zone VI. The place where they would seem to lack
would be that the movements aren't geared, there aren't scales, etc.
So my question is: how important are these gears and scales and so
forth to the studio photographer? Can a field camera effectively do
double duty?

Please email responses, and I'll summarize. The expiry at this site is
a little short ...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Glen Martin   B4/3fg+k+s+(+)mr   Ottawa, Ontario, Canada     glenm@bnr.ca
"You don't need to be afraid of us, but it just might be your daughter on
our bus." -- 'New Kid on the Block' by BareNaked Ladies
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: GeraldR@sunfish.ratsys.com (Gerald Ruderman)
Subject: Re: "All Rights Reserved" ????
Organization: Rational Systems, Inc.
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 00:55:20 GMT

In article <sfLLDhy00Uh_E2m0Yb@andrew.cmu.edu> "Frank A. Reynolds" <fr0c+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:

>Is the term that I see under some copyright notices "All Rights
>Reserved" just redundant, or a leftover practice of from pre 1976
>copyright law?  I can find information on the use of it. 

My recollection from over ten years ago when I had to worry about this was 
that "All Rights Reserved" helped (or was required for protection) in some 
countries. Here my memory gets weaker - Pan American Copyright Convention 
versus the other one (Basel?).

Gerald Ruderman                                   geraldr@ratsys.com
From: rwyble@schunix.uucp (Richard J. Wyble)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Lecia abbrevation
Date: 24 Jan 93 17:33:29 GMT
Distribution: rec.photo
Organization: SCHUNIX Public Access Unix for Worcester County, MA, USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

d88micla@odalix.ida.liu.se (Michael Larsson) writes:
: I recently bought myself an old Leica M4. Does anyone know what the 
: abbrevation on top "DBP" stands for? Just curious.

Deutsches Bundesrepublik Patent

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 rwyble@schunix.uucp                         Richard J. Wyble
 schunix!rwyble@transfer.stratus.com         Worcester, Massachusetts
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Subject: Re: Rolleiflex 2.8 GX
Organization: Bellcore
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 04:11:25 GMT

Olivier Byrde (byrde@imhfhp16.epfl.ch) wrote:
: Hi,
: 
: I have a chance to buy an old Rolleiflex 2.8 GX, ...
: Its lens is a Planar 80 'made by Rollei', but is it better or poorer than
: the one made by Zeiss for Hasselblad ? In any case, what is the difference ?

A crude cutaway view drawn by Rollei shows only four-element design of
this Planar 80 lens.   Can anybody who owns a real owner's manual confirm
this?  If it is only a four-element design, you may want to be reminded that
all other SLR lenses of standard focal length are mostly of six-element 
design.

	Hugh
From: hamm@haggis.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Technidol LC vs Technidol Liquid - What's the Diff.?
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:39:11 GMT
Reply-To: hamm@haggis.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland


	The Kodak 800 number is very user friendly in my experience,
	so call them about the Technidol LC aet for 120 film, and
	get the answers you desire.
--
  Craig Hamm, Memorial University,|   
  Newfoundland, Ocean Acoustics   |
  Canada                          |
  ________________________________|