HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Water stained pine
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:52:42 GMT

In article <1icg46INNe6m@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> thompson@woolly.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith B. Thompson - SMCC) writes:
>this before, put a couple of coats of primer on
>then the finish coat but the stain, over time,
>works it's way through... any suggestions, short
>of replacing the frame!
Try pigmented shellac. Most paint stores should stock it.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Subject: Thank you Jim Roche
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:39:40 GMT


Seeing the FAQ's coming through last week made me
think that would like to thank Jim Roche for what,
I believe, are the best and most valuable FAQ's on
the net.

Thank you, Jim, and please keep it up!


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: msieweke@hayes.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: If you were going to start a small wood shop...?
Date: 11 Jan 93 14:17:47 EDT
Organization: Hayes Microcomputer Products, Norcross, GA

If you are going so far as cutting your own lumber, I recommend the Wood
Miser bandsaw mill.  My dad has one and it's a great little piece of
engineering.  But you will also want a kiln.  Wood dries at a rate of
about 1 inch per year in the air, and you probably don't want to wait 
that long.  A solar kiln can do a very nice job.

-- 
Mike Sieweke                            ...!uunet!hayes!msieweke
Hayes Microcomputer Products            msieweke@hayes.com
Norcross, Georgia                       hayes!msieweke@relay1.uu.net
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 7 Jan 1993 13:53:43 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Grizzly jointer pickup

Two months to the day after ordering, my Grizzly 6" jointer has arrived at
the local terminal, where the dispatcher has almost conviced me its easier
to pick it up than to arrange to meet the truck at home.

Grizzly jointer owners: am I making a big mistake? He says two boxes, total
weight 240 pounds. Doesn't *sound* too bad. BTW, I've got a 4-door sedan.

- Bill Alexander
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chinn@rosencrantz.osf.org (David Chinn)
Subject: Re: Simple problem, solution needed
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:49:11 GMT

In article <C0IsAC.3p2@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
>In building toys and small gadgets, I'm often faced with the following
>problem:
>  
>  What is the best way to make a clean, perpendicular crosscut in
>  a piece of molding or other wood considerably smaller than a 2x4?

I've not had good success making a cut good enough to join without
some sort of re-work.  For me it's always a matter of getting it as
close as possible, and then tuning with a block plane, or belt sander,
or just sand paper.

If youre talking something the size of the 1" dowel or less, 
I'd use a bandsaw, a mitre saw, or a japanese pull saw, and 
work the edge with sandpaper or a belt sander.

If the size is closer to a 1X3 or 1X2, I'd use the same saws, but
re-do the edges with a stationary belt sander or disk sander, or 
a handplane.

					david chinn
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Where to mail order tools?
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:08:19 GMT

In article <james.726648677@wrs.com> james@wrs.com writes:
>OK, I've got the list of phone numbers and addresses for mail order
>tool sellers, but I have no idea what the reputation on any of them is.
>Are there particuarly good places to shop, or places to beware of?
>My experience with mail ordering equipment has been with camera 
>places, which vary widely in quality, from really good down to totally
>sleazy.  I'm assuming that the same thing exists in the discount
>mail order tool business, and I'd really like to avoid the sleazes.

I've had very, very good success with Tools on Sale, in Minn.
I've purchased a Delta Contrator's saw, 12" thickness planer,
Bosch 1615evs router, and a Delta combination sander from them. The
stuff all arrived when promised, in good shape, and I was able to get
the best price as well. There no: 1-800-328-0457. I have no
relationships with this vendor - am just extremely please with their
service.
-- 
Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
is posted in many store windows.
Standard Disclaimer, of course.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:38:03 -0700
From:         BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG
Subject:      Re: Fine woodworking wants in....

I know I'm kind of far away, but N.M. Technet does offer dial in access to the
internet for it's general subscribers. 800 service is available from anywhere
in North America. For info he can write to:
 New Mexico Technet
 4100 Osuna N.E.
Albuquerque, N.M. 87109

or drop me a line at "Boulan@Technet.NM.Org"

Subscription rates run $50.00 a year and $.62 per min.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:57:35 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Push Sticks (was Re: WARNING (response to...))

Greetings!

Mike Lacy writes:

>....Various people relate their table saw accidents......
>
>I appreciate reading the accident stories---really, one can never be
>reminded too often.  I'm struck, though, that no one has mentioned
>using push sticks as a preventive measure.  Push sticks are easy
>to make from scrap, are relatively easy to use, and will eliminate
>essentially all hand-blade accidents.  Given this, I'm surprised
>I rarely see anyone on rec.ww mentioning using them.  What don't
>you non-pushers :-)  like about sticks?
>  As a regular 'pusher,' I subjectively feel less in control with sticks,
>but I always tell myself that fingers are more important than a
>sense of control.   Any thoughts?

I _always_ use one, save for crosscutting.  I have also begun to use them on
the jointer as well (when face-planing) in addition to those hand-held pad
things (what are those called, anyway!).  I usually make a nice, big, thick
one out of two pieces of 3/4 plywood laminated together.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: wagner@mala.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to apply laminate adhesive in winter
Date: 12 Jan 93 09:29:06 -0700
Organization: Malaspina College

In article <C0potr.G3E@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu>, smp@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis) writes:
> I would like to know if there is a way to apply laminate adhesive in winter.  
> The adhesive is flammable and warns to extinguish all flames including a pilot
> light.  My shop shares the heating with rest of the house and I do not want
> to freeze it's incumbents.  Is there any way around extinguishing the furnace
> and pilot and applying the adhesive
> 
> 	All comments and suggestions are highly appreciated.
> 
> 	Thanks in advance
> 
> 	Shailesh
> -- 
> Shailesh Potnis, Associate	|Concurrent Engineering Research
> Member of Technical Staff	|Center, West Virginia University

I know this is not a solution to your question, but it is an example of what
can happen.  A friend of mine was doing his van conversion in the winter and
in order to warm the place up he turned on ALL his propane appliances.

He got a bout 1 square foot started then the whole shebang went cabang.

Talk about lucky, I guess the air to fumes mix wasn't just right and }i a 
little like a dynamite explosion he was inside the confined area so all he
would up with was a singed beard, no eaybrows and a real funny afro cut.

Still had to put out the stuff that was on the wall, it was burning pretty 
good after he got out

73, Tom

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: AMT tools?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:33:21 GMT

Tom Perigrin writes
> I bought a 12" AMT bench mount drill press.  It turned out to be too small,
> so I sold it to a freind and bought a 16.5" Delta Floor mount (last week!).
> 
> The AMT looks a LOT like the Delta (Taiwan probably used a Delta as the
> model for the castings). {...}

The Delta 16.5" is also a Taiwanese built saw. The AMT might even be made
in the same factory.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re: Power Switch on RAS ???
Summary: 
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:22:26 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

The little red lever on the squiblet flurbigator near the 
gearbox switches it from random order to fixed drive...
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
________________________________________________________
                     ____  
     ^      |\   || |_  _| |\    /|      ^      ||
    /^\     | \  ||   ||   | \  / |     /^\     ||
   // \\    ||\\ ||   ||   ||\\//||    // \\    ||
  //___\\   || \\||   ||   || \/ ||   //___\\   ||
 //_____\\  ||  \ |  _||_  ||    ||  //_____\\  ||_____
//       \\ ||   \| |____| ||    || //       \\ |______|
________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jweiss@paintbrush.cgd.ucar.edu (Jeffrey Weiss)
Subject: Re: Transferring chip carving designs to wood
Organization: Climate and Global Dynamics Division/NCAR, Boulder, CO
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:52:55 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.165329.11269@wuecl.wustl.edu> jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen) writes:

>I've been doing a little chip carving lately.  To me, the most tedious
>part of the project is transferring the design to the wood 

>If anyone has any improvements to this technique, I'd like to hear
>them. 
>-- 
>John A. Breen                   |
>jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank

You may be interested in a method my wife uses to transfer photocopies
to fabric and paper.  I don't know how well it will work with wood,
however.  Lay the photocopy (the original laser print may also work)
face down on the wood and brush solvent over the photocopy.  The
solvent dissolves the ink which is then tranfered to the material
below.  Also, the image comes out reversed so you will have to deal
with that.

--
Jeff
jweiss@ncar.ucar.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Pipe Clamp Pipes
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 19:35:47 GMT

In <1ipuolINN49f@iskut.ucs.ubc.ca> daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet) writes:

>|> In article <mlh1-080193095904@132.197.9.231>, mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney) writes:

>|> >Does anyone have any experience cutting their own threads in 3/4" black
>|> >iron pipe for pipe clamps? Places around town want $2.00 per end for pipe
>|> >not purchased at their store. 
>|> 

>And remember that for bar clamps, you only need one end to be threaded.
>$2.00 x 6 = $12.00

Here's a nice trick:  Get *both* ends of the pipes threaded, and buy a couple
of the appropriately sized couplings.  Voila, instantly extensible pipe clamps.
I happened onto this brainstorm after having bought pipes for two, 4 foot
clamps.  Sure enough, one day I needed an 8 foot clamp.  A simple coupling
did the job. 

-Paul
grun@intellistor.com
-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 10 Jan 93 01:13:12 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <93Jan8.161533cst.15559@utdallas.edu> JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
> Well times are a chang'in even for the Amish.  I was watching a PBS show on
> the Amish, traditional, pious, as you would expect, except......for........
> that.....pneumatic butterfly sander with half inch air supply hose he was
> using to sand that beautiful china cabinet with!  Hey, competition
> was getting tuff.

My wife, who's spent some time in Lincoln bed-and-breakfasting with the Amish
was a bit surprised - "Sure it wasn't a Mennonite?"  The "Old Amish" wouldn't
be building things with power tools.  Most of them have the husbands operating
the farm, and the wife doing quilts and other small craft objects for sale
along with their market garden.

Male woodworking is *usually* limited to the husband building birdfeeders or other
small items for sale after coming in from the farm.  Most Amish furniture is fairly
rough, and relatively little of it for sale.  The Mennonites are far more into
fine woodworking than the Amish.

>                 Or my Grandparent-in-laws who live in Lancaster PA who
> were telling us about an Amish aquaintance who decided a phone was a necessary
> evil......so she put it in the barn!  Everything is O.K now.  I wonder who
> she talks to with it?

This is clearly Amish.  A Mennonite will have power and phones.  Real Amish
will never have power in the home.  The phone in the barn makes perfect sense.
Back a few dozens of years, the US Govt. mandated that milk producers
MUST refrigerate the milk.  At the time, some substantial number of Amish
left Lincoln (and other nearby areas) and came up to Ontario in the St. Jacobs,
Guelph, Kitchener-Waterloo area to escape being forced into using refrigeration.

In some cases, the remaining Amish got power to their barns or milk sheds
strictly for refrigeration.  Others figured that they could compromise
by using propane refrigeration for short periods during the day.  Phones also
became fairly necessary for the dairy business (and often for those Amish
supplementing their income with bed-and-breakfast - needing a way to do their
reservations...).  One of the people my wife stayed with had their phone on a
pole in the yard.

Oh, and yeah, the Amish migrating to Ontario didn't have long before they were
forced to refrigerate milk too.

While the Amish have reluctantly accepted certain bits of modern life, it's
only where their livelyhood is clearly threatened if they don't.  Traditional
Amish still resist "forbidden" technology in their homes and elsewhere as
possible, and are sometimes quite ingenious about doing so.  But it doesn't
stop them from using more modern techniques where they don't run afoul of
their beliefs.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sesv@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (steven.e.sommars)
Subject: Comments on fold-up outfeed tables for Table Saws
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 04:13:44 GMT
Keywords: outfeed table


I'm interested in adding a fold-up outfeed table to
a Unisaw.   I know about the roller-based HTC models,
the laminated table listed in Trendlines, and the sketch
in Scott Landis' ``The Workshop Book''.  I'd like
to hear:
	- opinions on rollers versus a laminated outfeed table.
	- other commercial models.
	- magazine/book articles/reviews.

Please email comments, and I'll summarize.

	Steve Sommars
	Steven.Sommars@att.com
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 22:31:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

There is an even cheaper source for clamps:  Chinese clones of
the light-duty bar clamps made by Adjustable Clamp (their 37XX series).
Since I need lots of clamps I was thinking of making some.  But in
my wanderings to the San Jose Flea Market, I found several dealers
with these.  They go for $2.50 for the 6" to $5.00 for the 36" ones.
I can't really afford to make them at these prices.
From: brooksby@brigham.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Glen W Brooksby)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mason/Sullivan Clocks?
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:09:06 GMT
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center

In article <WOODWORK%93010510591374@IPFWVM.BITNET>, UNCDWC@UNCVM1.OIT.UNC.EDU (Doug Cutler) writes:
|> On Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:33:59 GMT Glen W Brooksby said:
|> >I soon found out that Mason/Sullivan has been acquired by WoodCraft.
|> >Apparently the acquisition in not yet complete and in the mean
|> >time they aren't able to sell me any plans.

|>    Are they still at the same phone number??

I called the 800 # for Mason/Sullivan and got a recording which gave me
the 800 # for Woodcraft who proceeded to tell me nothing was currently
available. I then used the direct customer service # listed in 'Frequently
requested rec.woodworking addresses (last updated 12/4/92)' and I talked
to a woman who reiterated that M/S has been sold and she could do nothing
for me. She informed me that Woodcraft would be coming out with a catalog
around March showing what they were going to continue to sell.

|>  Having also assembled some Bartley kits...

Can you give me an address for "Bartley"?  I've not heard of them and don't see them
listed in the 'Frequently requested rec.woodworking addresses (last updated 12/4/92)'.
Do they sell just plans as well as kits?

Thanks!

Glen B.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Subject: Re: "Bargent" Hand Planes
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 14:28:35 GMT

In a posting from Joe Christian, he was asking about hand planes with the
"Bargent" name.  I believe the correct manufacturer is SARGENT.  I don't know
much about the history of this maufacturer, but I have seen listings in Antique
and Used Tools lists for these planes.  Some are quite rare and pricey.  If you
can make out the number of the plane you might be able to get an approx.
value. In a Nov. 1992 list there is a Sargent #708 for $129.50 and a #710 for
$119.50.

Good luck, Steve Bussell (P.S. Hand Plane using and collecting can be
addicting).
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: squiblet flurbigator
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:05:37 GMT
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


I>It seems to me that the flywheel should be made out of cold rolled
>bolognium (UNS No. B94104 with a Brinell hardness of 75).
>This is an extremely versatile material.

Actually, any flubigator worth its salt has the flywheel made of
unobtanium.

But naturally, there are very few of these around.......



chip
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 7 Jan 1993 11:33:37 PST
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Re: DeWalt biscuit jointer, first look, question.
              Jan 6, 93 2:08 pm

      I have also purchased the DeWalt BJ and think that it is well made.
      My BJ also exhibits the noise described in this thread.  I noticied on
      a NYW that Norm's ELU also made the noise and I at least am
      comfortable with the explanation that it's a function of design and
      not a defect.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 11:30:26 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Push Sticks (was Re: WARNING (response to...))
              6 Jan 1993 09:57:08 -0600 from <mglacy@LAMAR.COLOSTATE.EDU>

On Wed, 6 Jan 1993 09:57:08 -0600 <mglacy@LAMAR.COLOSTATE.EDU> said:
>....Various people relate their table saw accidents.......
>
>I appreciate reading the accident stories---really, one can never be
>reminded too often.  I'm struck, though, that no one has mentioned
>using push sticks as a preventive measure..

<stuff deleted>

I regularily use push stick(s), they live next to the TS..

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALL
From: ges@hpcndsst.CND.HP.COM (~Gary Stearns)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:04:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Eye protection
Organization: HP Network and System Management Division
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking



>This made me wonder:  For (extremely) myopic woodworkers, are
>safety glasses better than goggles over glasses?  I, for one, hate
>goggles; they tend to fog and gather dust, and overall tend to obscure
>my vision badly.  I always wear them, but I wonder if there's anything
>better.
>
>Has anyone out there used prescription safety glasses?  Are they any
>better?  Do they come with some sort of snap-on side guards to protect
>the sides?

I am extremely myopic (-9 diopters) and have a pair of prescription 
safety glasses.  Safety glasses are thicker in the center and the minimum
lens diameters for safety frames are larger than available in conventional
styles.  These factors can result in much thicker edges and spherical and
chomatic abberations in peripheral vision for severely myopic folks.  

I prefer to wear contacts (soft) and standard issue polycarbonate safety 
glasses unless it's extremely dusty.  I have never found goggles that I
like.  Most fog or scratch easily.  If, you don't wear contacts, you may
want to consider a pair of safety glasses in addition to standard glasses so
you don't have the side effects all the time.  

Good luck!

Gary Stearns
Fort Collins, CO   

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork)
Subject: Re: Grizzly jointer pickup
Reply-To: jon@unislc.UUCP (Jon Bork,PLS2,5508,,)
Organization: Unisys, Salt Lake City
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:44:46 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%93010714033740@IPFWVM.BITNET> Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET> writes:
>Two months to the day after ordering, my Grizzly 6" jointer has arrived at
>the local terminal, where the dispatcher has almost conviced me its easier
>to pick it up than to arrange to meet the truck at home.
>
>Grizzly jointer owners: am I making a big mistake? He says two boxes, total
>weight 240 pounds. Doesn't *sound* too bad. BTW, I've got a 4-door sedan.
>

Santa just brought me one for Christmas, I had them deliver it to
my house since I was worried about the weight too. It turns out
that 240 lbs is not that bad for two people to lift, but the 
box that holds the jointer and fence is pretty big. Unless
you can put your back seat down, you may not have room in 
your trunk for it. It would fit in the back of a small pickup
just fine.

All of the weight is in the one box, the other is just
sheet metal for the stand.

I say 240 lbs. isn't bad, but then I can move a 80 lbs sack of
cement without much trouble either. Remember you are only
lifting it to waist high into the car. 

I'd still have them deliver it to my garage. The driver and I
slid it out of the back of the tractor/trailer and I just dragged
it into the garage. If you pick it up, you will need a friend.

-- 

Jon Bork
Phone: (801) 594-5508	Fax: (801) 594-6708	OFIS:	JEB1/CORP
internet: jon@unislc.slc.unisys.com  -or- unislc!jon
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking