HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fitchitt@wam.umd.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: what's a good car?
Date: 25 Aug 92 17:46:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: wam.1992Aug25.174619.8640
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

In article <78226@ut-emx.uucp> baylor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Baylor) writes:
>
>	My wife and i are thinking of buying a new car and wonder what's
>good to install in?
>	We are cheap and are therefore looking at a base eclipse, integra
>or maybe a saturn, accord or sentra.

Talk about being into car-audio! Buying the car based on the audio! A
little backwards but.....
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: RE: CENTER CHANNELS
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 18:58:18 GMT

In article <1435.72.uupcb@cutting.hou.tx.us>, erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) writes:

[Accord install stuff deleted (but helpful!)]

|> Just sum the L and R channels to get the center channel (I
|> think?).  Or you can get one of those Center channel units that does
|> everything for you.

  I thought you would only want the center channel to produce material
that is IN BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT CHANNELS. Is this not so? It seems that
this would put out from the center the stuff that is in the center of
the stereo image of the recording. If you put out a mono "sum" of the
left and right, what does that do to the stereo imaging? Seems like it
would get narrower!
  What units are available for center channel processing? Not head units
since I already have one - I was thinking about a processor that could
be fed by my elec. Xover and then fed to an amp to drive the center
channel.... anything out there?

|> Erich Lim

-- Tim
From: v523d85n@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Robert C Maggio)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Mail-order numbers....
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:10:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Aug31.175401.6106@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, mf@dancer.uucp (24241-fusco) writes...
> 
>Anyone have the numbers for some decent car audio mail-order
>places (e.g., WDS, Illinois Audio)?
not too sound like a smart ass, but i usually use 1 800 555 1212 (free 800 
number info.) right before i call wds, i cant ever remember the number either.
Organization: Junior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 20:14:40 -0400 
From: Amit Likhyani <al1x+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: NY mail order(last post)

I was reading my Stereo Review and could not help but notice the ads in
the back.  How are all of these mail order places?  

6th avenue Electronics
BJ Audio

and others.  I know someone else asked this, so I am sorry to waste
bandwidth.  Someone can point me to a FAQ if necessary.
From: collin@angelo.amd.com (Collin K. Ong)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Big tubes
Date: 28 Aug 92 01:22:30 GMT
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.

Anyone have any ideas as to where I could get large (15") diameter tubes with
thick walls that are made out of cardboard or wood, etc?  I want to use it
to make a sub with 10" driver and port on the same end surface.

Thanks.
collin@brahms.amd.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jkonecn@andy.bgsu.edu (Joe Konecny)
Subject: Chevy truck stereos
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 00:01:01 GMT

That was me who originally asked about the Chevy truck stereos.  I cross-posted
into rec.autos.tech and stopped reading there after a while because I saw no res-ponse.  Thanks for bringing the answer over here, I missed your name but it
was appreciated.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: conn@crchh76.bnr.ca (Bill Conn)
Subject: BMW CD-Changer Compatability?
Organization: Bell Northern Research, Richardson, TX
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 23:09:57 GMT

Which CD-Changers are compatible with the CD-Ready BMW Tuner?

I believe the Pioneer is compatible, but the cable has to be
re-wired somehow. Can anyone tell me the pin-outs and how
they should be connected?
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Connections: Head Units -> Amps ?
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:34:47 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

Can someone tell me, is it really necessary to purchase those
expensive RCA phono plugs?  I need at least 16ft of length for my 
car, for four head unit outputs.  For Pheonix Gold, StreetWires
Monster Cable etc., this would cost at least $80.

Couldn't I use Radio Shack brand cable & RCA jacks, and make my own
custom length cable?  If i took this route, should the cable be
2-conductor?

Is there any audible difference between the high priced shielded cable 
and a Radio Shack or some other inexpensive brand?


I am running out of money fast.


Thanks
                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              

                            lb.'n till it Hz
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: PARTICLE BOARD AND PLYWOO
Date: 31 Aug 92 14:53:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

-> I know to use Particle board (Thanks net). I went to a hardware store
-> the other day and they only carry 5/8" and 3/4". That's a little to
-> thick for me. Does it come any smaller like 3/8"? I will look again
-> Monday.
->
-> When I put the speakers (12") in the particle board should I put a
-> sealent around it? What kind? Or would the screws be alright?

  The kind of wood also depends on the size of your box.  I prefer using
Fiberboard becuase it's a little lighter and it's denser than plain
particle board.  But, it costs twice the price of a plain particle
board.k

  When you mount your 12" driver, you should use some kind of sealent.
I use foam weather-stripping.  I use 3/8" and apply it between the wood
and the woofer and it works fine and no air escapes.


Erich Lim
From: keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Buying Car Stereo
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:39:26 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1992Aug27.102322@is.morgan.com> scairns@is.morgan.com (Scott Cairns) writes:
>
>We are in the process of purchasing a new car and as I've had three
>new cars over the past 10 years, I've never been satisfied with the
>sound of the factory installed systems.
>
>What I want in a third-party system is the ability to:
>
>(1) Play single CDs (a changer is not necessary).
>(2) Play cassettes.
>
>Are there combo units that do both (and of course include the AM/FM
>radio as well)?  If so, recommendations?  



I have not listened to it, but on Tuesday is was in a Car Audio Shop, and
they had a Pioneer unit which was a double DIN tuner/CD/and Cassette.  The
face folded down, and you can insert a cassette.  It had a large LCD display
and many buttons.  Sorry but i don't know the model number, or the price
but it had a sign above it which read "NEW".`
                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              

                            lb.'n till it Hz
                        
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: lcc@kepler.unh.edu (Layton C Cote)
Subject: Anyone done a new Vette install?
Organization: University of New Hampshire  -  Durham, NH
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 03:23:59 GMT

Hello,
Has anyone worked on installing a system in a new body style vette (84-90)?
Specifically replacingthe stock delco-bose system, and adding rear
subs?   

Also, has anyone installed an alarm system w/auto door lock/ trunk pop/ etc
in one?  

If so, pleaaaase lemme know!

thanks

Layton    lcc@kepler.unh.edu
From: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM (John Fox - SunExpress IR)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Taurus upgrade
Date: 27 Aug 92 20:55:32 GMT
Reply-To: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hooksett.east.sun.com

I have a 91 SHO which came with the premium sound system (electric
windows also) It's adequate, but I'm used to something a little nicer.
I also have an old set of ads 320i's collecting dust which I'd consider
installing if:

o  I know in advance the door work will be relatively simple.
o  The outboard tweeters look somewhat inconspicuous.
o  I won't be screaming for power (I can live with what exists today).

Stage 2 would probably entail an new head unit, changer, amps and a
sub. Has anyone gone this route with a Taurus, and would care to comment
on how the installation went? Any gotchas?

Thanks in advance,
John
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: kevin@iisat.alt.ns.ca (Kevin Davies)
Subject: Re: Sony CD Changers and skipping
Organization: Public Access UNIX
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 22:34:49 GMT

In article <78592@ut-emx.uucp>, lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick) writes:
> In article <1992Aug26.211528.26285@lsil.com> mitch@lsil.com writes:
> 
> >I think he was feeding you a line of s**t.  I have one in my full-sized
> >Chevy 4x4 pickup and my Sony has NEVER skipped, ever in the year that I`ve
> >been using it.  That includes some off-road, many railroad crossings, considerable
> >dips and potholes, and probably most impressively, speedbumps.
> >
> >Mine is mounted behind the seat (effectively in the middle of the vehicle) and
> 
> Well, actually, mounting midway between the wheels dies make a pretty
> big difference from mounting in the trunk.  Midways between the axles
> has the result that the vertical movement of the CD changer is the
> _average_ of the vertical movement of the axles, while in the trunk
> the movement is more like the average of 1.5*rear axle and -2.5 front
> axle due to the "lever" effect of the trunk overhang.  The
> accelerations from hitting a speedbump or pothole would probably skip
> any CD player made if it's mounted in the trunk and the impact is at
> >5-10mph, while I have to doubt if yours will EVER skip, for any
> reason.
> 
> I've been thinking of mounting a changer in the dead space under the
> right front seat partly for this very reason (also because it's quite
> invisible to thieves checking out the car! anyone got any experience
> with hidden antennas?) ... any suggestions/drawbacks out there?
> 

I've recently had a Sony CD changer installed, in the trunk (strapped
to the top of the trunk beside the speakers), and it hasn't skipped
yet (300 model).  As it happens, the position is along the axle line
of the rear, but due to short wheel base, doesn't make a lot of
difference where it is.

I know someone that tested a pair of changers on rough roads
without skipping (on New Brunswick roads in Canada --- I use the
word 'roads' lightly).

What's this with 'hidden antennas' ?  Are you looking at FM broadcasted
changers ?   Most cars these days have antennas.

-- 
Kevin Davies		Public Access Unix
Internet:  kevin@iisat.alt.ns.ca
UUCP	:  dalcs!iisat!kevin
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jch@sumac27.cray.com (J.C. Hamlin)
Subject: Re: Buying Car Stereo
Originator: jch@sumac27
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:02:48 CDT


In article <1992Aug27.102322@is.morgan.com>, scairns@is.morgan.com (Scott Cairns) writes:
> 
> What I want in a third-party system is the ability to:
> 
> (1) Play single CDs (a changer is not necessary).
> (2) Play cassettes.
> 
> Are there combo units that do both (and of course include the AM/FM
> radio as well)?  If so, recommendations?  

There are some double-DIN units made by Pioneer and JVC that do this. 
Also you can get a Sony CD player and the half-DIN cassette player 
combo to it also.  Sorry I don't have the model numbers handy, but if 
you e-mail me I'll do some more research for you.

> Finally, what if any advice do netters have for dealing with the 
> problem of factory-installed sound systems?  I don't want it but it
> seems I still have to pay for it.  

Again, another FAQ...

Q: If I'm purchasing a new car, what can I do if I don't the factory audio 
   system?
A: The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) passed a law mandating that you can 
   refuse the entire factory audio system, *and* get the full MSRP credited 
   towards your purchase -- even if it means they have to de-install it.  It 
   also mandates that there has to be a wiring connector for the radio in 
   place -- even if the car isn't equipted with one.  (this FAQA is incomplete,
   it needs specifics... coming soon).

Again, if you (or anyone else) is interested I'll do some research and give 
you more information.

J.C. Hamlin
Automotive Sound & Security by Hamlin
jch@Cray.COM
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Particle Board and Plywood
Date: 30 Aug 92 15:25:21 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.


	I know to use Particle board (Thanks net). I went to a hardware
store the other day and they only carry 5/8" and 3/4". That's a little
to thick for me. Does it come any smaller like 3/8"? I will look again
Monday.

	When I put the speakers (12") in the particle board should I put
a sealent around it? What kind? Or would the screws be alright?

	One more question....

	If I was to build a box, would it be alright to have the woofer
side particle board and the other sides Plywood?


					Thanks for all your help,

-- 
       		          ___     _      Buy USA products, It's YOUR job.
MADE		  |   |  \   \   / \
       IN	  |   |    \    /---\	 	Christopher J. Massa
	    THE   |___|  ___/  /     \   	cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Sony CD Changers and skipping
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:28:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: ut-emx.78592
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <1992Aug26.211528.26285@lsil.com> mitch@lsil.com writes:

>I think he was feeding you a line of s**t.  I have one in my full-sized
>Chevy 4x4 pickup and my Sony has NEVER skipped, ever in the year that I`ve
>been using it.  That includes some off-road, many railroad crossings, considerable
>dips and potholes, and probably most impressively, speedbumps.
>
>Mine is mounted behind the seat (effectively in the middle of the vehicle) and
>not in the trunk so I'm not sure if this has much to do with it.  The big
>test is going over speedbumps and mine works fine.

Well, actually, mounting midway between the wheels dies make a pretty
big difference from mounting in the trunk.  Midways between the axles
has the result that the vertical movement of the CD changer is the
_average_ of the vertical movement of the axles, while in the trunk
the movement is more like the average of 1.5*rear axle and -2.5 front
axle due to the "lever" effect of the trunk overhang.  The
accelerations from hitting a speedbump or pothole would probably skip
any CD player made if it's mounted in the trunk and the impact is at
>5-10mph, while I have to doubt if yours will EVER skip, for any
reason.

I've been thinking of mounting a changer in the dead space under the
right front seat partly for this very reason (also because it's quite
invisible to thieves checking out the car! anyone got any experience
with hidden antennas?) ... any suggestions/drawbacks out there?

-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
Organization: Freshman, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 14:28:11 -0400 
From: Jeremy Matthew Toeman <jt3h+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: SONY CD CHANGERS AND SKIP
Distribution: world

Kenwood? Are you NUTS?? I think that Kenwood and JVC are the two companies
I avoid like the PLAGUE when it comes to CD technology. Sony's ten-disc CD
changer skips IF ITS NOT MOUNTED PROPERLY! Otherwise, its just fine!! I
have the CDX-5080 (pull-out 1-disc CD player) and it only skips on
SERIOUSLY shitty roads, or if I am playing around a BIT too much, otherwise
its GREAT!

I will never, ever abandon Sony when it comes to CDs.


---

Jeremy Toeman
412-268-4199     (anytime)



                 " Scobell --  We're not 'Schlag!! "

















The message ended a while ago, this is just my signature. Have a nice day!
From: lstowell@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Lexus SC300
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:48:45 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <Sep04.041225.14115@engr.washington.edu> eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>
>Are car stereo power ratings measured under the same set of conditions
>as home audio?  i.e. X watts RMS from 20 to 20KHz with no more than
>rated THD. 
    Nope, most aren't.  And that would be watts RMS into X ohms from
    20-20K at x% THD.  And to be real accurate you'd have to note
    the supply (i.e. battery) voltage.


>If not, are they measured under some common set of
>conditions?  e.g. external power supply with infinite power, X watts
>at 1KHz, 100% THD measured just before transistors vaporize.  :-) :-)
>
    If that.  Some are peak power, some are at 5% THD, and some are
    just fantasy.   

>If there are no standards, then power figures are almost completely
>meaningless, at least as far as I understand the concepts.  It would be
>just like saying my car can get 100 mpg.... downhill.
>
    You can get a clue by looking at the fusing for the power
    amps...   an amp with a 1 ampere power fuse is going to have a bit of
    difficulty pumping out more than about 13 watts total power at
    ANY distortion level.   
>
>eliot
From: Mike Stukalin
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Buying Car Stereo
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:32:00 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company, Rochester NY
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

>           
>Q: If I'm purchasing a new car, what can I do if I don't the factory audio 
>   system?
>A: The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) passed a law mandating that you can 
>   refuse the entire factory audio system, *and* get the full MSRP credited 
>   towards your purchase -- even if it means they have to de-install it.  It 
>   also mandates that there has to be a wiring connector for the radio in 
>   place -- even if the car isn't equipted with one.  (this FAQA is incomplete,
>   it needs specifics... coming soon).
> 
>Again, if you (or anyone else) is interested I'll do some research and give 
>you more information.
> 
>J.C. Hamlin
>Automotive Sound & Security by Hamlin
>jch@Cray.COM

The problem is, that Japanese seem to say that the factory units on more 
expencive cars are FREE. They just come with the car, they have no MSRP.
Witness most Lexii, Infinities, MAzda 626's, Honda Accordion LX's and so on.
Another brilliant way to squeeze the customer is beautifully executed in
new Mazda 929. The damn stereo is CURVED. Try to take it out and fit any
regular flat-faced unit in there. Good luck.
The bottom line though is this. It seems that the quality of factory head
units went up dramatically in the past 3-4 years. My main quabbles with
factory systems are the following: Shitty speakers (paper cones usually),
no RCA outs for outboard amps, lack of bells and whistles on most standard
units. The latter doesn't bug me. The speakers are usually easy (albait
expencive) to change. The lack of RCA's is bad, because you can't put a sub
in the car, but could be rectified by opening the unit up, I think. Also, 
if you pay extra for radios, they are not cheap. But man, if it comes free,
I guess it's OK. Honda puts descent Alpines in, Mazda does Clarion/Bose,
Bose for Nissan, Blaupunkt for BMW, often JVC in VW and so on. Plus, if we're
to trust the advertizing, the sound is SPECIFICALLY EQUILIZED for each 
different model (aka Ford JBL Premium). And I'll take the Nakamichi in Lexus
any day over my Concord/Yamaha/Kicker/Alpine setup. (I'd also probably take
Lexus over my Toyota, but that's another story) And I think when you purchase
that Nak as an option, it's still cheaper than aftermarket Nak. Is it as good?
I think so.
So, choices, choices. It's true, that dealer must remove radio upon your 
request, if the radio is a separate option. Moreover, they just usually give
you the credit and leave the radio in. But not in the above mentioned cars.
For me the point is mute anyway, since buying a brand-new car is against my
deepest believes :-). And used car comes with whatever it comes with, waking
up a tinkerer in me, allowing me to start building from (almost) scratch.
Mike.S
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jonul@microsoft.com (Jon Ulrigg)
Subject: Car audio Equipment
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:32:19 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Distribution: usa

It's an audio sale, below are the following equipment, all in excellent
condition, reason for selling this is to free up money for a new computer


Alpine 7915  Cd/Tuner

Rockford Fosgate Punch 75,   $250
This is a 2-channel amp that can be bridged to one channel

A/D/S PQ-8  $120
This is a 4-channel amp(I believe around 20 watts/channel), I don't
believe that it can be bridged, but it is stable to 2 ohms.

Audio Control 2XS $85
This is a two way electronic crossover.  I have two plug in modules for
it, one will make the crossover point 100hz, the other 450hz

Street Wires Power Distribution block and Fuse Panel  $75
Gold distribution block and fuse panel takes a large gauge wire input
and splits it into four outputs after the fuses.

Street Wires Gold Plated Battery Terminals $25
Pretty self descriptive

Street Wires 4 guage power cable best offer
This is a length of 4 guage that runs the length of a Scirocco
Paid $4/foot for it, best offer(within reason) takes it.

Kicker C-10 $80
10" woofer that prefers to be in a sealed enclosure.  

Soundstream interconnects if your interested.

Please mail me direct at jonul@microsoft.com.  I used to have time to read
this group(how I miss that), but can rarely get up here anymore.

Thanks
Jon
-- 
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|expressed by me and anyone using this account-  NOT!!  |
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