HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Need Plywood Source 3/16-1/4"
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:14:51 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Sep9.125909.7055@engage.pko.dec.com> muldoon@books.enet.dec.com (Steve Muldoon - Correspondent-at-large) writes:
>
>In article <65528@cup.portal.com>, JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeff - Griffin) writes...
>>Can anyone recommend a source for multi_ply 3/16 or 1/4" plywood?
>> 
>>Hardwood on both sides is preferred but hardwood on one side w/Poplar on the
>>other is acceptable.
>> 
>>I'd like these in 4x4' panels (though 2x4' would suffice).
>> 
>>Sources in MA, RI, CT preferred but Mail_order houses would be considered.
>> 
>>Thanks,   Jeff Griffin
>
>         A quick look at the Boston Yellow Pages (1989) yields
>      15 entries under "Plywood and Veneers". Boulter Plywood
>      in Somerville, MA is a retail dealer specializing in
>      plywood -(617) 666-1340.
>
There is a place in Woburn called Atlantic Plywood.  I have dealt with
them, and they seem ok.  They will have what you want.  They only sell
to the trade; this can be a problem.   617 933 3830

Summerville Lumber can be pretty good with plywood if you can find the
right guy.  Try to go in on a weekday morning.

F
i
l
l
e
r
F
i
l
l
e
r
F
i
l
l
e
r
F
i
l
l
e
r
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: brett@dvorak.amd.com (Brett Stewart)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Safety Catches for Frameless Construction
Date: 14 Sep 92 14:07:04 GMT
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.; Austin, Texas

I am looking for some 'kiddie catches' - those little clips that
keep your inquisitive toddler from getting into nasty stuff in your
bathroom and kitchen cabinets.

One can find these things in almost any hardware or home center
store in the land, but usually, the ones for sale are for
(in the U.S.A.) traditional face frame construction cabinets.  I am
something of a pioneer, it seems, because I built all my kitchen and
bathroom cabinets on the European 'frameless' 32mm system (which others
have done) and THEN had kids.  Now, I cant find catches for my cabinets
anywhere.  (I am reminded of the joke about the guy who child-proofed his
house, but they STILL got in!)   BTW - I really liked this system once
I understood it, and I like the functional hardware available for it too.

Back to the point.  There is only 1/2" between the drawer sides and
the carcase, and the drawers stack tightly together, about 1/16"
spacing from one to the other.  It will not work to latch the 
drawer from above, since the only thing to latch to is another
drawer.  It seems to me they must latch to the side, which means all
the parts of the safety latch and all the range of motion when it
operates must fit in a space 1/2" high (or wide, depending on your
frame of reference.)

I can't be the first guy with this particular problem, so there must
be somebody somewhere who has made these catches.  Any email pointers
to sources would be greatly appreciated.  If there is interest I will
post a summary.  Thanks in advance.
-- 
Brett Stewart
Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.           +1 512 462 5101 FAX
5900 E. Ben White Blvd MS526           +1 512 462 4336 Telephone
Austin, Texas 78741      USA           Brett.Stewart@AMD.com
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sun, 6 Sep 1992 17:25:40 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      PREVENT RUSTING

While reading some of the comments about tools kept in a garage I
occurred to me that some people keep a piece of camphor, available from
a pharmacy, in their tool box and under covered machines to prevent
rust.  Does it work?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Wish I had Black Lacquer ... !
Keywords: black paint
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 13:27:17 GMT

In article <183495@pyramid.pyramid.com>, dlee@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (David Lee) writes:
|> I have a chest of drawers that I wanted to convert from a white paint finish
|> to a high gloss black finish.  Since black lacquer is no longer available,
|> I need some alternative like acrylic, enamel, wood-based expoxy, or ???
|> 
|> Has anyone tried something that gives a smooth finish from an air driven
|> spray gun?  Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

David, about a year ago I sprayed a small project using Hydrocoat Black topcoat.  This is a water based product available in gloss formulation.  I would suggest that if you wish to try it to use their black sanding sealer as well.  You can buy this product from Highland Hardware in Atlanta.

G'luck - Steve
From: sjackson@medicus.com (Steve Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Painted wood sticking together
Date: 4 Sep 92 20:50:35 GMT
Organization: Medicus Systems Corporation, Alameda, California


> I am planning to paint a project that I am nearly finised with, but I'm
> worried about pieces sticking together.  In earlier projects that I
> have painted, pieces tend to stick together weeks after having painted
> them.  It seems that the paint hasn't fully cured for quite some time
> (months perhaps).  I have been using latex based paint.  Is there a
> paint that will cure quicker thus preventing my pieces from sticking
> together after final assembly?  I have several wood hinges that will
> need to pivot freely, there will be painted wood rubbing painted wood
> on a screw pivot.

I would suggest using oil based paint instead.  Oil will cure to a hard film,
while latex will always remain flexible (usually an advantage when painting a
house; here, and when painting double hung windows, a disadvantage).
Specifically latex has a tendancy to block (stick), which is what you found
out.  Some brands of latex are better at not blocking than others (Consumer
Reports had an article on paints some time ago and covered this very subject).

Different types (enamel, flat, semi-gloss, gloss) might be different, too.

Think about it this way.  Latex gloves remain flexible.  Oil varnishes
get a nice hard finish.  The stuff in gloves is assuredly different from
latex paint, but you get the idea.


Steve Jackson
sjackson@medicus.com
From: smp@cathedral.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Does a router fence has to extend all the way beyond the bit?
Date: 4 Sep 92 21:50:54 GMT


	I am having this question and thought if the fellow netters can shed 
some light on it.

	I have always seen the router table fences extend from an edge to edge
of the table, clamped at the two ends.  If I use a smaller fence (extending
only a couple of inches beyond the bit but all the way behind the bit, do I
sacrifice precision/safety?.  If there is no loss in precision or safety, I can
use a smaller fence for a larger table surface to handle bigger boards.

	As a corollary: Is most of the fence beyond the bit rather redundant
and exists only for the clamping convenience?

	All comments and suggestions in this matter are highly appreciated

	Thanks in advance

--
Shailesh Potnis, Associate	|Concurrent Engineering Research
Member of Technical Staff	|Center, West Virginia University
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 5 Sep 1992 17:38:11 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Advice about workshop tools

I live in Marquette Mi and people up here who heat their garage
experience increased corrosion during the winter with their cars.
Secondly, I keep my Delta table saw in the garage and the other machines
in my basement.  During the winter I use the saw very often in my cold
garage and it works fine.  My main concern is wearing heavy clothes
during the winter and being extra cautious that something does not get
caught in the saw.  I read in one of the woodworking magazines that cold
weather is hard on the mechanical parts of woodworking machines,
especially when they are initially turned on.  Also, I work with oak and
cherry mainly and keep all of my wood in the basement where it is dry
and carry pieces into the garage as necessary for sawing.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: table saws
Originator: eap@dean2
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:12:56 GMT

I've been reading this group for about a month and have found
some useful advice. Specifically, many netters have recommended
the Delta 10" contractor's table saw. I went out to see about
one and found a Ryobi sitting next to it at my local Home Depot.
It has some seemingly nice features and is about the same price.
I was wondering if anyone has any experience/wisdom regarding
how they might compare in quality?

Thanks, Ed Parrish.
From: holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Safely cutting off small pieces on a table saw? (+handsaw hint)
Keywords: kickback
Date: 14 Sep 92 21:52:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: College of Oceanography, Oregon State Univ

In article <1992Sep14.133745.13170@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:
>...  Frequently, the
>cut off piece catches in the blade and is shot across the room,
>and while it isn't big enough or fast enough to do major damage, ...

Hah!  Try catching one in the eye some time.  Or have a guest walk in to
your shop at the wrong time.  Or be making japanese screens with
ricepaper covering and see what it does to the paper!
Watching people use saws like that (throwing off pieces) scares the
heck out of me!

>...  I could use a hand saw for
>these cuts, but the table saw is neater and more accurate, ...


Accuracy and speed with a hand saw come with time.  You must make
yourself use it many times before the proficiency arises.  Personally, I
can whip out a lap, or a tenon just as fast with a hand saw as with a
table saw.  A hint on making cleaner cuts, I always use a metal edge and
an Xacto knife to mark lines, then use the knife to cut out a notch like
this...

          keeper     waste end
_________________   ___________
                 | /           |
	             |/            |
                               | 
                               | 
_______________________________|

Then, saw in the notch.  Since you sever the grain at the surface with
the knife, you get a very clean edge.

Also, I might add, get a good hand saw.  I use japanese pull saws and
can get very clean, fast, and accurate cuts.  It's quite possible to cut
off a 1/32" from a piece if it's too long.  If I need to trim any less,
I shave off the end grain with a good sharp chisel.

P.S.  I do have a table saw, so I'm not a total hand tool freak.  Just a
molding nerd.

			  |   ||        Tim Holt / Marine Technician / RV Wecoma
+--==o_____+-/|--+||        College of Oceanography / Oregon State
_____|  R/V WECOMA  ~-----/ Corvallis, OR USA, 97331-5503	(503)737-4447
+------------------------'  holtt@oce.orst.edu	
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <UKA004@ukcc.uky.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 14 Sep 1992 13:27:21 EDT
From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Squaring Up Stock
              12 Sep 1992 07:53:02 GMT from <billn@HPCVAAC.CV.HP.COM>

A marking gauge helps too.
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: joining edges of wood
Date: 11 Sep 92 20:13:49 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:

> I agree with the second part of this statement, but I've never heard anyone
> say that dowels or biscuits reduce the strength of a joint. Can you provide a
> reference for this?

I don't have any references handy; I've read a lot of books.  :)    However, I
think the reason for dowels and other such things weakening a joint is that
they form "stress concentration points", making such points experience higher
stress than would a simple joint.  The different expansion and contraction
rates of the foreign object can also initiate failure.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Sep 1992 13:45:20 EST
From:         "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Sewing table plans

Furniture Designs Inclist
1827 Elmdale Ave
Glenview IL  60025
(708) 657 7526

For $3.00 US they will mail you a catalog of ~200 plans for furniture.

I just received their catalog and it has a bunch of neat stuff in it.  They
claim to use "full-size plans for fine furniture".  I have not purchased any
plans (yet) but they have a sewing machine cabinet (#192, $13.50 +$3 shipping).

The write up states that it has a 13"wide x 14.25" high x 17.375" deep storage
area for the sewing maching.  The top folds out to provide a 20"x78" work area.
The sewing machine sits in a well to make its arm flush with the top.
Overall dim is 20"x39"x30" (closed) with a pedistal cabinet/drawer on the side
and a center drawer.

Note that they offer a free catalog with an order.

If anyone has delt with these folks can you let us know what you think of the
plans they provide?

Larry Rondot
Rondot@IPFWVM.Bitnet      - or -     Rondot@SMTPLINK.IPFW.Indiana.EDU
From: esr@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Edwin S. Russell)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Blurfl?
Date: 15 Sep 92 17:28:10 GMT

In article <92258.14573634HLEFG@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>  
34HLEFG@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU (Mark Strandskov) writes:
> From FAQ lists...
> 
> >4). Should I buy a Sears blurfl?
> >      ...
> >5). Should I buy a Taiwanese clone blurfl?
> 
> Where did the term blurfl come from?  

An attempt to describe the sound made by a person seeing cheap equipment?   
Somewhat akin to the French word "beurk" :-).
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Brass Dip Cleaners
From: carvalho@tribiet.maintech.com (joe carvalho)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 92 22:10:04 PDT
Organization: Tribiet: A city much like hell.

jocon@tribiet.maintech.com (Joe Connors) writes:

>         I have a great deal of brass hardware from furniture
> pieces that is coated with tarnish and grime. As the pieces are
> intricate, and it would be tedious cleaning and polishing all the
> detail areas, I am looking for a dip that will do the work for
> me. I would appreciate any leads or products or chemical
> solutions you might know of. Thanks!
> ================================================================

Hi Joe,
After playing around the old pyrotechnic lab...I've found a lemon dipped 
in vinegar and salt works pretty well for eating up tarnish on brass. 
Works well on the inside of a burned coffee pot, too.

ThanX.

Joe Carvalho
Beacher Tool & Die...A Hughe Jorgen Company
1106 2nd Street, Suite 316
Encinitas, CA. 92024
From: scottb@vcd.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Blurfl
Date: 15 Sep 92 17:35:57 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.1 PL6]

All we have to do is use gradeschool english to examine this word.  Blurfl has
three parts: the prefix bl, which comes from the root word Blue; the root ur,
found in words such as urine and Robert Urich, means waste product; and the
suffix fl means to sail though the air such as fly or fling.  Putting it all
together, blurfl means a blue object used to fling waste product though the
air.  In early years, this term specifically related to Ryobi or Makita tools.
Currently, blurfl means any tool used to create sawdust!

Scott
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Jointer Recommendations
Date: 15 Sep 92 13:20:56 GMT
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs

On the subject of 6 inch jointers under $500, I've had a Jet 6" jointer for
about 2 years and have not had any problems with it.  On the plus side the
adjustable outfeed table, is in my opinion, a "must".  I allows you to adjust
snipe on the tail end of the piece without having to reset the height of the
blades like the Delta 6".  The only feture I wish it had was an enclosed base
for better dust collection possiblities.  The new Jet jointers now have an
enclosed base, but mine is the earlier model with the open stand.  Does anyone
know if Jet will sell me just the enclosed base????
Regards,   Steve Bussell
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAD for home PC?
Date: 15 Sep 92 20:26:05 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <627257@bailey.UUCP>, ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey) writes:
> 
[stuff deleted]

> What about Generic Cad?
> 

I've had Generic CAD for about 7 years, back when they were inexpensive
and a great value.  They may still be, but I haven't got an update
for about 2 years, or about 1 year after AutoCad bought them out.  My
impression was the AutoCad bought them because they were too much competition,
cheap, useful, and more bang for the buck.  Since then, price increases
have decreased the value-for-money, but it may still be a good deal.  Generic
CAD does automatic dimensioning, lots of layers, snaps and fillets, and
there is a 3D version (although you really also want the 2D too).

Assuming you really want to complete a drawing this year, you should also
have at least a 25 MHz 486 (you *NEED* floating point, don't even think
about it without it), at least a good 24 pin printer, a mouse, and a
plotter is optional but very nice.

> 
> Autocad may be the best, but I can't afford that.  I need value!
> 

Well, you are getting AutoCad with Generic whether you like it or not.

G.
From: pmg@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Paul M. Gaston)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: WANT TO BUY WOODWORKING TOOLS FOR NEW SHOP
Date: 7 Sep 92 01:00:39 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Virginia

I am building a new woodworking shop in Charlottesville VA, and I 
need to buy the following stuff:

	1) Miscelaneous Hand Tools
	2) Small Power Tools
	3) Air Compressor
	4) Shop Carts
	5) 10" Powermatic Table Saw
	6) Saw Blades 
	7) Router and Shaper Cutters 
	8) Clamps 

It would be best to call me (Blaise Gaston) at (804) 973-1289.  
Or you can send Email to this account (pmg@virginia.edu), which
is my father's.  I don't read this newsgroup, so don't bother 
posting.

Thanks much,

Blaise Gaston
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: Using a timber drill
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 19:58:09 GMT

In article <266@talgras.UUCP>, david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes) writes:

>             My friend is a hand tool nut.  He wants to do this whole
> project by hand.  For drilling the 2in wide holes through these 6in wide
> oak timbers (to start the mortises), my friend presented me with a 
> timber drill.  I was a little sceptical.  It looked like a lot of work.  
> However, we gave it a try.  I was truely impressed.  

> However, this morning I can hardly move my arms.  We only drilled 6 holes,
> and we have 5 zillion to go.  So, I am back to wondering if there isn't a
> better way to do this.  Any sudjestions?  

If it has to be a handtool then what you have is probably your best choice.
I had to drill 120 holes through 8" oak timbers.  I used a Milwaukee right
angle drill (250 rpm) fitted with a 1 7/8" self feeding spur bit (similar
to a forstner bit).  The bit had to be sharpened about every 10-15 holes 
and the feed screw was replaced twice but it cut nice holes and tracked
straight.  Even a large drill can be run on a very small generator.  I have
been told that all the Milwaukees are DC motors and can be run off a car
battery but I have no idea if it is true or how to do it.

Good luck.

			-Pete-


* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov (William J. Bene)
Subject: Aniline Dyes
Reply-To: wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov (William J. Bene)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 11:40:53 GMT

Does anyone have any experience using aniline dyes?  I have seen some 
projects that were made of different kinds and sizes of wood laminated 
together with the larger pieces separated with brightly colored dyed vaneers.  
Are aniline dyes difficult to work with?  The vaneers are 1/32 and 1/16 inch 
thick and the dye has penetrated through the whole thickness of it.  What 
process is used to dye wood all the way through?  Can it be done at home?

The price of the dyes in WoodCrafters mag is $7.25 per ounce in powder form 
(do they come in other forms?).  Are there cheaper sources?   Are dyed 
vaneers available from suppliers?  Any help would be appreciated.

==========================================
William J. Bene
Computer Sciences Corp
wjb@cscsun2.larc.nasa.gov


From: rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 20:36:10 GMT
Subject: Re: Smoothing edges from a table saw cut(HOW?)
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I use a plywood blade for cutting plywood and get as good an edge on
this stuff as it's worth.  If you want a good edge on plywood, cut a
thin strip of real wood (1/8" to 3/16" thick) the same width as the
thickness of the plywood and glue and clamp it to the edge, then sand
when the glue is dry.  You will avoid splittering the stuff and get a
superior edge.  I use this technique all the time when using vaneer
plywoods for large, exposed-edge surfaces.  If you want it for a table
top, make the glue-on piece even thicker (1 1/2" - 2") and you'll get a
nice effect.  You can also make it wider to give you a lip on the edge
of the surface.

	    _____________________________________
	    | |-------------------------------
	    | |-------------------------------
	    | |-------------------------------
	    | |-------------------------------
	    |_|__________________________________

	    ________________________________________
	    |       |-------------------------------
	    |       |-------------------------------
	    |       |-------------------------------
	    |       |-------------------------------
	    |       |
	    |       |
	    |       |
	    |       |
	    |_______|


Rob