HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: research@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mike Leavitt)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 29 Dec 92 01:27:27 GMT
Reply-To: research@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mike Leavitt)

In rec.photo, tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:
>In article <1992Dec28.131003.28563@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.ed
>u (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
>>Well, looking at my F1N brochure, I see an FD 20-35/3.5L and an FD
>>28-55/3.5-4.5.  I don't see anything like an FD 24-35.  So go for it! :-)
>
>        Well, I had a FD 24-35L in my hand twice.  Never seen a FD 20-35L.
>I think there is a missprint somewhere.
>
>-Anthony

My "Canon EOS EF Lenses" brochure describes an EF 20-35mm f/2.8L, with an AFD
(Arc Form Drive) actuator, 12 groups, 15 elements, aspherical lens, inner/rear
focus, 6 diaphragm blades, 0.5m minimum focusing distance, 79 cm long, 570 g
mass.  No idea about the price, though.

Mike
From: pdn@fc.hp.com (Paul Nuber)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Info on Elle Photographer Gilles Bensimon
Date: 28 Dec 92 16:21:04 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

The April 1988 issue of American Photographer has an article on him.

--
Paul Nuber
pdn@fc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Co.
Fort Collins, CO
From: honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need help getting dark B&W sky
Date: 23 Dec 92 18:17:17 GMT
Organization: Computer Science, Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec

In article <1gams4INNhcq@gaia.ucs.orst.edu> lantis@math.orst.edu
David,
you write:
>When... 
>you slightly underexpose the shot, the sky will usually keep more
>detail.

Sky?  Detail?  You must mean something else!












Michael


-- 
***************************************************************
honna segel
department of computer science
concordia university  *****************************************
Xref: sparky rec.photo:22854 ba.general:5455
From: pdc@lunch.wpd.sgi.com (Paul Close)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,ba.general,sgi.general
Subject: Re: Where to process my color negative film
Date: 1 Jan 1993 18:51:33 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: ba
Reply-To: pdc@sgi.com (Paul Close)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lunch.wpd.sgi.com
Originator: pdc@lunch.wpd.sgi.com

John Eisenman (jice@echo.asd.sgi.com) writes:
>I would like recommendations for fairly inexpensive but
>reasonable places to have my file developed.  I am not a
>"real" photographer, so I don't need to interact much with
>the lab, but I would like a place that will give me good 
>results and actually checks the results before giving the
>prints to me.

Well, it sounds dumb, but I always get my film developed at Target.  It
takes 2-3 days, but I've never had a problem.  They're reasonably priced,
too (read cheap :-).  You don't get charged for prints that don't turn out,
as you'd expect.  This leads me to believe that somebody, somewhere,
actually checks them out.  The quality of the prints is consistently high
(well, as high as the qulity of the negatives going in :-), and they use
Kodak paper (If you care).

They (well, the labs they send them to, of course) have a wide range of
services, too, like enlargements and double prints, or glossy or matte
finish.  They even develop "panoramic" film....
-- 
Paul Close	     pdc@sgi.com	   ...!{ames, decwrl, uunet}!sgi!pdc

			No fate but what we make
From: intolabb@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Steven Intolubbe)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: T mount adapters
Date: 29 Dec 92 11:54:46 GMT
Reply-To: intolabb@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Steven Intolubbe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


    I have seen various T mount adapters for different bayonet
mounts and I have seen a "universal" adapter that screws on to
something.  What do "universal" T mount adapters adapt.

				       Thanks,
				       Steve
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photographing people; need permission?
Date: 3 Jan 93 20:03:06 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig) writes:
: In article <346@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
: 
: > In the U.S., at least, you would be breaking no laws by doing this (but I
: > hear things are different in Saudia Arabia...).  You have the legal right
: > to photograph anything you have the legal right to see with your own eyes.
: 
: Hogwash!

Perhaps you mean that the topic is open to discussion.

: A photograph is a copy, which means that photographing any copyrighted
: material requires permission from the copyright holder.

By the same token, the image formed on the retina of the viewer, and the
memory of the event also are copies.  One can take the letter of the law
too seriously.

: This applies, among other things, to performances of plays, concerts,
: dance, and so on.

I suppose it is now illegal to take photographs that include any buildings,
because the design (blueprint) is copyrighted? :-)

As far as this is to be taken as a serious legal issue, it is a very hazy
one, that IMO should be discussed in another newsgroup, if at all.
-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 29 Dec 92 10:27:00 GMT

In <C00D8z.Mw3@jrd.dec.com> diamond@jit533.jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond) writes:

>In article <1992Dec28.164753.21867@research.nj.nec.com> lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Duan-Shin Lee) writes:

>>I think the screen with MF aid that you talk about is the microprism screen. 
>>Can you point out some evidence that this screen messes up the metering
>>system?

>On an F-801, none that I know of.  On an F-801s, the manual says that the
>microprism screen for F-801 can be used in F-801s but that spot metering is
>no longer usable.  I don't know how badly it messes up spot metering.  I wish
>I could get microprism around the center spot rather than in it, and also
>have the grid outside of that.  Where oh where are the third parties....

A microprism around a plain matte centre?  Hmmm.  Write Beattie
Interscreens and see if they can do anything for you.  They're the
only 3rd-party maker of screens I've heard of.

I think they make a split prism on matte grid.  That's a screen I think
I could get to like.  (But Beattie screens are pricey...)

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|

Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale
From: ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (Eric Chen)
Subject: >4 Sale: Canon AE1-P bk w/35-105 macro *REPOST*
Organization: Clemson University, Clemson SC
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 16:46:11 GMT

Canon AE-1 Program black body:  
	Shutter: 2-1/1000, Program, Bulb
	ASA setting: 12-3200
	AE lock, Exposure preview switch, depth of field preview bottom
	shutter lock
Canon 35-105mm f:3.5 (min 22) macro FD w/auto mode (shutter speed
	priority), 72mm front
Canon Haze (UV-1) 72mm filter
Canon Polarizer 72mm filter

All of above in near mint condition, all have original manuals,
	will give you one week warranty to let you test it.

Sell for $280 + Shipping before Christmas

Eric (803)6548817 ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: briang@atlastele.com (Brian Godfrey)
Subject: Re: Swelling of wet paper
Organization: Atlas Telecom Inc.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:29:11 GMT

In article <2300088@hpgrla.gr.hp.com> peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff) writes:
>Swelling
>^^^^^^^^    
>
>The swelling of the *gel* increase the light diffusion, and when
>the paper dries (gel dries) and condenses, the exposed bromiedes
>condense -- we get *dry down*.
>
>I've noticed that different papers have considerably different
>swelling and dry-down.  The arista classic I use for Carbro has
>significant swelling and significant drydown, on the order of 20-25% !

   It seems to me that if one were interested in maximizing sharpness of the
   final print, one would print on wet, swelled up paper.  I might try that,
   just for kicks, and see what happens.  I presume I will see an increase
   in contrast as well as sharpness.  Blacker blacks, etc.  (Like when you
   inflate a balloon and write on it, then deflate it.  The writing gets
   real contrasty and black.)  I have a wonderful negative which needs a
   real hard paper to print well.  I think I might try it with this method.

   I don't know anything about Carbro, or Arista papers.  Is Arista Classic
   an ordinary B&W paper?  Does it process normally?  (Dektol, etc.)  Where
   do I get it?  (I don't think I've seen it locally.)  

   If I use a B&W paper like Agfa Brovira or Oriental, etc. will it swell 
   more if I soak it in warm water (not hot enough to remove the emulsion,
   but warmer than my usual 68 degrees?)

   Has anyone tried anything like this and can save me some work if it's a
   stupid idea?  :-)

-- 
--Brian M. Godfrey
  atlastele.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Velvia Reciprocity Info?
Date: 22 Dec 92 04:41:42 GMT

In <12430086@hpmwnpd2.sr.hp.com> allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong) writes:

>Does anyone have information about the reciprocity failure of Fujichrome
>Velvia? I've been able to look up the behavior of Fujichrome 100 and 50
>and for Kodachrome 25 and 64, but can't find it for Velvia. From memory,
>Fujichrome 50 and 100 require +1/2 stop and +5R for 10-100 seconds and
>exposures over 100 seconds are "not recommended" whatever that means. I
>didn't memorize the Kodachrome information because I don't use it as
>often.


Fujichrome Velvia RVP:

Exposure and Colour Balance Corrections for Reciprocity Failures:

+---------------+-------------+------+------+------+-------+-----------------+
|Time (sec.)    | 1/4000 to 1 |  4   |  8   |  16  |  32   |       64        |
|===============|=============|======|======|======|=======|=================|
|Filters        |    None     |  5M  | 7.5M | 10M  | 12.5M | Not Recommended |
|---------------|-------------|------|------|------|-------|-----------------|
|Exposure Comp. |    None     | +1/3 | +1/2 | +2/3 |  +1   | Not Recommended |
+---------------+-------------+------+------+------+-------+-----------------+

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Third Party flash for Minolta
Distribution: usa
Date: 31 Dec 92 10:40:15 GMT

In <Bzz95K.L1o@rice.edu> psv@owlnet.rice.edu (Palathinkara S Vinod) writes:

>Hi,

>Is there any body there who can comment on the
> pros and cons on using a third party flash on cameras.

I don't know the specifics of Minolta, but the modern, dedicated flash
units usually have the following advantages over 3rd party:

-- auto zoom head based on focal length of lens
     (especially handy when used with zoom lenses)
-- auto film speed reading (not too big a deal)
-- flash exposure compensation (most 3rd party flashes don't have 
     the controls/display to handle this)
-- 2nd curtain sync (for proper motion effects)
-- suggested shooting range (under manual mode)
-- manual flash level output (though some 3rd party flashes have this)
-- no spurious AF light (some 3rd party flashes don't understand what
     the signals are exactly, and fire off the AF light whenever any
     bits pass through)

That's all I can think of at the moment.  All these differences are
largely a result of the camera makers not giving away the protocol
specification for the data lines on the shoe.

For me, the big features are flash exposure compensation and 2nd
curtain sync.  Auto zoom is nice too.  So, all you have to do is decide
how much any/all of these differences are worth to you.

ACS

-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mjg@nwu.edu (Michael J Graven)
Subject: Re: Fluorescent safelights (was: constructing small darkrooms)
Originator: mjg@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
Reply-To: mjg@nwu.edu (Michael J Graven)
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 23:11:15 GMT

Daniel Burstein (dannyb@panix.com) writes:

> Once upon a time there was a safelight based on LOW pressure
> sodium lighting.  I don't know if these are still available.  

The Thomas Duplex safelight is certainly still available.  It comes with
a sodium vapor tube and movable vanes in a fixture which you hang
from your darkroom ceiling.  The vanes have dark filtres in them, and by
opening and closing them you can control the amount of illumination in 
the darkroom.  

However, they are somewhat expensive.  Calumet lists the DUB model, the
one for black and white printing, at $214.95.

-- 
-Michael                                        "The ball shall be spherical."
mjg@nwu.edu                        -- NCAA basketball regulations, rule 1.1.14
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fhd@panix.com (Frank Deutschmann)
Subject: Re: Fluorescent safelights (was: constructing small darkrooms)
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 19:50:48 GMT


Delta 1 Photo Equipment Mfg. (10830 Sanden Dr., Dallas, TX 75238-1337
Phone: 214/349-9779) has fluorescent safelights, both for graphics
arts uses and for photo uses.  According to my cat, they are available
18", 24", 48", with 18" costing about $40 for fixture, shield, and
lamp.  Shields alone for 24" seem to be ~$25.

I've never used any of their stuff, though many photo shops are
dealers.  (Somehow got on their mailing list, though...)

-frank

-- 
EMail: fhd@panix.com         |  Do or do not, there is no try.
Phone: 1 - 212 / 765 - 2050  |                                 -- Yoda

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ciofi@pimac2.iet.unipi.it (Carmine Ciofi)
Subject: NIKONOS-5: advice request  
Organization: Dipartimento di Informatica, Universita' di Pisa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 10:49:49 GMT

Hi,
I would like to buy an underwater camera and i was thinking
of a NIKONOS - 5. Is there anyone out there who can give me
any advice about it? In particular I would like to know whether
it is such a good camera as Nikon says.

        Thank you,

             Carmine.
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Vivitar 2x for Hasselblad
Date: 23 Dec 1992 11:41:51 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Mike:

Kenko America Inc offers a range of 2x converters for a variety of
medium format cameras..and I believe it is the same stuff that Vivitar
markets..they can be reached at 714-251-9646 or fax to 714-251-9649

brian
From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Hasselblad: VF pic. area? MO pricing?
Date: 21 Dec 1992 19:27:00 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com

Bill Palmer writes:

>I happened to spend some time looking at a dealer price list with a
>Hasselblad sales manager last weekend.  Two observations:
>
>1) the minimum allowed price for the Classic package was $2295, just
>like you see in everyone's advertisements.

Am I wrong, or didn't some federal agency effectively outlaw vendor-fixed
retail pricing 10 or more years ago?  Can a vendor still dictate what price
a retailer can ask for a consumer item?  

	Dave

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: WD-40 Remover?
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:03:58 GMT

In article <2918@tau-ceti.isc-br.com>, jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey) writes:
> In article <1992Dec16.151119.17167@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:
...
> You are going to have to disassemble it pretty thoroughly, use a
> solvent to get all the crap out of it, and then re-lubricate it.
> I've done similar cleanups on my Stereo Realist and an old Ikonta
> camera I bought for $15.  I used ether to clean out the gunk,
> a can of starting fluid from an auto parts store works just fine.
> Supposedly watch oil is good for oil (I've been using a tube of
> light machine oil that I've had forever), I don't know what you'd
> use for grease on a focusing helicoid.  I've only used the light
> machine oil, and haven't touched the greasy areas (with solvent
> or lube).
> 

You can get watch oils from grade 00 to 5. 4 and 5 are greases, 5 is about
the consistancy of regect tar!! They are fish oil based or synthetic, and
won't migrate. This is vital in optical units.
As to solvent, do you want to die of cancer, or burning. Tri-chlorethylene
or ether/acetone, take your pick.

> WD-40 et al. are DEATH to fine mechanisms, a lesson I learned when
> as a kid I used to fix old mechanical calculators for fun.
> 

You aren't wrong there!! 

BTW, graphite is the lube to use on most shutter blades and diaphrams, not oil.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phan@quine (Phan Huy Lan)
Subject: Looking for a 80-200 Tokina ATX, 2.8
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 06:26:56 GMT

hi, it's me again.
I just realized that the email address on the
article posted wasn't right. So for thoses who
want to sell his Tokina lens to me, please
forward email at phan@info.polymtl.ca .
thanx again.

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: arora@arora.mentorg.com (Arora Amitabh @ PCB x3080)
Subject: WANTED: CANON EOS equipment
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 22:16:49 GMT
Organization: Mentor Graphics Inc.
Keywords: wanted canon eos used equipment
Followup-To: 

I am interested in used Canon EOS camera equipment which is in good shape.
I was planning to go buy EOS630/50mm lens/ 430EZ brand new but it does not 
seem worth it to buy new since technology is changing so fast.  Also, I do
not stress the equipment that much to pay premiums for new technology.  The
equipment of today does not seem to hold value in the long run.

Please send me email or contact me at:

	( Work )   408-451-5586
	( Home )   408-452-0944  ( After 6PM )

It will be nice if you can respond before the end of the year.


Thanks,

-Amitabh
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: WD-40 Remover?
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:20:04 GMT

In article <BzGrKI.Fxz@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk>, jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin) writes:
> jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey) wrote:
>> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:
...
> Wouldn't the safest measure be complete disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning
> in detergent followed by distilled water?
> 

NO. You will have about .5 seconds till the nice clean steel corrodes... And
never let a US cleaner near an old cemented element unless you WANT to re-
center it and re cement the elements.

A tip for working on lenses. Go down to your placky model shop and get a supply
of Humbrol Maskol ( POMEs ) or the Teternal or who ever equivalent. When you
remove a glass, put a thin coat of it on the lens surface first, let dry, then
put a short bit of cotton and a second coat. Use different colour for front
and back! Or use a colour-code scheme or knots to number each lens surface.
This makes reasembly SO much less worrying, and protects the lens surface.
The downer, is if the coatings are stuffed, it can clean them right off.

The 'Right Stuff' to use in cleaning is always a bit of a gamble, unless you
have good tech data on what you are working on. The main thing is to work out
where you DON'T want the stuff, them act acordingly.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: boutwell@beta.tricity.wsu.edu (Scott Boutwell)
Subject: Camera for Collectors
Organization: Washington State University Tri-Cities, Richland
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 02:43:51 GMT

I'm trying to sell a camera for my Grandmother...  It is a bolsey...

I'm sorry if this is not the place to do this and will direct my post
elsewhere if told where to post this.  But here goes anyways...

The camera is a Bolsey Model C Twin Lens Reflex.
It is in good working order

Also we have 2 light meters One that I cannot find any Identification on. 
The other is a Sekonic in a Leather Case.

I would be willing to sell all together for a reasonable offer or trade.
I will be seeking a collector in my area soon but would like to sell them
via the net if I can.  Buyer pays shipping... Make me an offer.

Scott Boutwell
boutwell@beta.tricity.wsu.edu
From: psv@owlnet.rice.edu (Palathinkara S Vinod)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Third Party flash for Minolta
Date: 28 Dec 92 16:15:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rice University

Hi,

Is there any body there who can comment on the
 pros and cons on using a third party flash on cameras.

I am planning to buy a flash for my 7000i.

The flash I am considering are Vivitar 636AF 
 and minolta 5200i.

 Both has zoom, tilt and swivel.  

Vivitar costs only half as much as the minolta one.

Am I missing something?

How is the compatability of 636AF with 7000i?

Is there any other third party flash which is
 equally good?

Thanks
Vinod
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: News on Lithium Rechargeables
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 03:12:56 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.185816.3930@walter.bellcore.com> jchen@ctt.bellcore.com writes:
>Bellcore has developed a longer-lasting battery that can be used to power 
>anything from a notebook computer to an electric car. The new AA-size 
>lithium battery is rechargeable and can last three times longer than 
>common batteries. According to Bellcore, local telephone companies can use 
>the batteries for emergency backup during power outages. 
>-=-=-=-=-=
>
>Obviously, it can be used for cameras too.

	Neat trick.  An 1.5v lithium battery.  Are you sure?  Or is it a
6v AA size battery?

-Anthony
From: rsmith@pearl.tufts.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: "Signature Color" film -- what's the story?
Date: 21 Dec 92 18:47:19 GMT
Organization: Tufts University - Medford, MA

In article <341@metran.UUCP>, jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
> jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:
> : Indeed, this stuff is NOT C-41.
> 
> Really?  What is it then; that is, how does the process differ from
> C-41?  What if I take my Seattle Film Works or Signature film in to
> a C-41 lab for processing?  Do I get an image?  If so, what kind?

The process is called ECN-II (or ECN-2, depending on who's labelling the
film).  I don't know the details of how the chemistry's different from
C-41, except that ECN-II film contains some sort of backing to reduce
light scatter, and if the film's processed as C-41, this backing is
alleged to turn into a goopy, tarry mess, which will ruin the film.
I've never tried it myself, so this is just a report of what I heard
somewhere else (I think a photography magazine report on the film from
some years ago).

					--Rod Smith
					  RSMITH@PEARL.TUFTS.EDU
From: gpalo@digi.lonestar.org (Gerry Palo)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Flash Coverage for Minolta 3200xi
Date: 27 Dec 92 04:49:16 GMT
Organization: DSC Communications Corp, Plano, TX

Thanks for the suggestions.  I can now go ahead and get a  24mm or wider
and then try them out.  I'll let you know if I come up with any interesting
results.

Gerry Palo (73237.2006@compuserve.com