HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: marcus@vestek.com (Mark Stephen)
Subject: re: idle problem
Organization: Vestek Systems, San Francisco
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 22:24:04 GMT

     I am sorry to have offended people by posting a question regarding
my Honda in this newsgroup. A couple of time in the past I have posted
in rec.autos.tech and gotton ZERO response. This newsgroup seemed to have 
a higher degree of technical discussion, as well as postings. Perhaps if
I had not mentioned my car was a Honda and said it was a Rabbit instead, 
after all my question was pretty generic. 

     Once again I apologize, but I would have appreciated a little advice,
other than 'this is the wrong newsgroup'.

     Marcus




  

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@eastrg2.cray.com (Robert James Dilmore)
Subject: Re: trusty old jetta needs help....	
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 31 Dec 92 06:29:34 CST


Don't worry about your trusty old Jetta, it's still trusty.  What you are
seeing is a little blow-by plus oil getting thrown around in your valve
cover. This in turn gets blown out of the PCV-like arrangement on the top
of your valve cover. You can install a splash guard inside your valve cover
to prevent this. Check with the dealer for this part. No bravery required
for installation...just patience.

You could install a K&N oil type air filter and then it would be self oiling:)

Robert Dilmore
dilmore@cray.com
In article <1992Dec30.185233.57060@watson.ibm.com>, jennings@tran.fishkill.ibm.com () writes:
|> Hello all!		
|> 
|> My '83 Jetta has an intersesting oil leak. First, about the car. It's
|> got approx 140,000 miles, starts and runs flawlessly, and gets about 35
|> MPG. There is never any smoke in the exhaust (both at startup or during
|> driving), nor is there any oil blown about in the engine compartment.
|> So, here's the problem.
|> 
|> After long highway trips, there is oil dripping from the air pre-heat
|> valve. I took the top of the air filter box off, and the air filter is
|> soaked with oil. The oil must be coming in from one of the breather
|> tubes (I guess?), but I don't know where to begin looking. The car only
|> does this at highway speeds or under heavy loads. On the highway, about
|> 1 qt. of oil per 300 mi. is pumped out. During around town low speed
|> driving, no oil is lost. Oil pressure normally runs 2 bar at idle, 4 bar
|> at highway speed, and the oil temp stays consistantly between 90 and 100 C.
|> 
|> Have any of you folks out there had similar problems?  Any clues where
|> to look first?
|> 
|> Many thanks,	
|> 
|> Bill     wrj@vnet.ibm.com 
|> 	
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ben@nyx.cs.du.edu (Ben En)
Subject: gif of pre-67 vw bus/truck wanted
Summary: don't even think about posting it
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 17:21:04 GMT

  I'd be interested in getting a gif of a 67 or earlier vw bus or truck
by email. If you have one, please send to ben@piglet.cr.usgs.gov - I'm 
looking for some X-windows background wallpaper.

--Ben
ben@piglet.cr.usgs.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andrei@namao.uucp (Andrei Chichak)
Subject: Re: K&N air filter - Quicky question
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 17:19:48 GMT

calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih) writes:

>andrei@namao.uucp (Andrei Chichak) writes:

>>I would suggest the K&N route....BUT....it sounds like you're fixing the
>>symptom.   Might I suggest a can of Forte' oil treatment, it sounds like
>>your rings are gummed up.   Considering that these engines are not known
>>for cylinder wear and they do have forged pistons straight out of the
>>box, I would say the rings are carboned up or you have revved the shit out
>>of the engine for far too many nanoseconds.   Our '83 GTi has ~200,000Km
>>and it is not pampered and it blows no oil.

>     What's so special about K&N filters?  I read in the FAQ that they
>     actually help the performance..... why?

They filter better than paper but flow like there is no filter installed.
For further references see "Tuning the BL A series engine" by Vizard.

Andrei
From: amh2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (ALOIS M. HIMSL)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: RE: Scirocco 16V
Date: 31 Dec 92 16:02:57 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

The things you are wondering about your scirocco are as follows:
1) The air rushing into the gas tank when you remove your cap is normal. I
have experienced it on all the VW's I have ever owned, or driven. I think what
happens is that a vacuum builds up and when you open the cap you are breaking
the vacuum. Think of it as opening up a vacuum sealed jar.
2) The humming noise in the back is probably due to the electronic fuel pump.
Again I have experienced this with other VW's and Porsches and Audi's do the
same thing. That is pretty normal and unless it gets louder don't worry about
it.
3) The excessive heating may be something of concern. If you want a lower temp
you can order a lower temperature thermostat and radiator fan switch from
several VW mail order places like Autotech (in CA) or Rapid Parts in Tallman
NY. The stock thermostats and fan switches are set to operate at 195 degrees
while these I have mentioned operate at 185. If you do not want to go this
route, just replace the thermostat and radiator fan switch. ALso keep a close
eye on the coolant level. That may be the problem. From my VW experience, I
always noticed that a very tiny amount of coolant escapes from the hose coming
out of the overflow. So it is sometimes necessary to top off the coolant on
occasion.
Good luck with the Scirocco!
AL Himsl
Lehigh University
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jtong73@calvin.edu (Joanna Tong)
Subject: Re: catalytic converters..
Organization: Calvin College
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 21:13:07 GMT

In article <l+t2q0=@rpi.edu> scottv@rs6413.ecs.rpi.edu (Vaughan K. Scott) writes:
>mag@minnie.nic.kingston.ibm.com (Michael Gray) writes:
>
>>It's been fairly clearly demonstrated by the performance people like Techtonics, and APS,
>>that removing the cat gains virtually no horsepower on '85 and on models.  However, there are clear
>>gains to be made by replacing the stock exhaust systems (from the cat back) .
>
>>Furthermore, european vehicles without a cat, have another muffler (resonator) located in its
>>place.  This is, I think, because you need a certain amout of back-pressure for the lamda system
>>to work correctly. 
>	I don't think this is true (at least, not universally).  My '76 TR7's
>both have 2 mufflers, no cat (but unleaded head), and twin carbs (absolutely
>no electronic engine management/sensors).  I am pretty sure that the later
>models, with PI (british for fuel injection), also have two mufflers, as well
>as the cat (and they do have lambda sensors).
>	BTW, what-the-hell is a lambda sensor?
>
>>M.Gray
>
>Vaughan Scott
>scottv@rpi.edu

A good book to read regarding the topic of backpressure is by Charles F.
Taylor, Theory of Internal Combustion Engines.  According to him only 
two stroke motors require any backpressure to run correctly.  Four stroke
motors can do with as little backpressure as possible.  About the lambda 
OXS sensor and system working, from what I have read all that is necessary
when it comes to the sensor is an exhaust temperature about 600F to 
start the sensor generating a stable voltage signal corresponding to the
oxygen content of the exhaust.  
     I do have a question about the techtonics performance cat.  Is it 
just a modified stock type cat where they have just ground out the entrance
and exit holes to 2"?

Peter Tong
From: tsh@lesti.hut.fi (Timo Hyv|nen)
Subject: Pictures of Beetle needed
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Date: 22 Dec 92 12:08:21 GMT


Hi

I'm planning to cut the roof off my old Beetle and now I'd need
some kind of pictures of it to plan the whole thing. The best 
alternative would be of course some kind of drawing of the original
cabriolet or some kind of explanation how the roof mechanism works
(I'm planning to build that myself). If someone happens to have 
a 3-D model of the Beetle in some common format (points or so) so 
I could import it to some cad or cam-program, I'd be really happy
to get it.

Oh yes, and I'm talking about electronic pictures.

Any pointers to a place to find such pictures are also appreciated.


Timo



-- 
I					/ tsh@hut.fi   Timo Hyvonen	I
I	You don't exist! Go away!!      / Vuorikatu 22B44 Hki Finland	I
I   					/ +358-0-654 062		I
I					/ +358-49-704 424		I
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Splitting this Group
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:10:24 GMT


So many of the opinions of people against splitting this group go like
this:  "I like to read articles about both, let's not split the
group."  Have any of you thought that you can subscribe to all three
groups (see RFD in news.groups if you don't understand 3)??  Those of
us who don't care to wade through the articles of THE OTHER type, will
merely subscribe to 2 groups, or even just the one group.  Most of you
who are opposed act like you will be forced to choose between one and
the other.  I feel the proposal as formally posted by Keith gives  us
all the best of both worlds.  Keeping the groups together does not
give those of us with single interests any choice by kill files and
those cannot handle all the cases automatically.  This may be
especially important for very small sites who only download the groups
they are interested in.  This will help them with less bandwidth.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "jim hepworth" <jim.hepworth@canrem.com>
Subject: rabbit diesel plug?!
Reply-To: "jim hepworth" <jim.hepworth@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 23 Dec 92 11:36:50 EST

I'm a happy owner of a 84 VW Rabbit deisel. Up until the cooler weather,
starting has never been a problem. Now, with the cooler weather, it's a
little harder. I bought new glowplugs on advice of a friend to change
them every 2 years. Well, I have them but it looks darn difficult to
remove the suckers.  The problem is that the fuel injector is right in
the way. Consulting help from my Chilton's and VW for Dummies books,
they just say remove the plugs without elaborting further. Is it as
difficult as it appears to be to remove these suckers?
---
  SLMR 2.1a  What are you doing?!? The message is over,GO AWAY!
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] winter tires and steelies question
Date: 31 Dec 1992 22:47:02 GMT
Organization: clearer than blir
NNTP-Posting-Host: stalfos.engr.washington.edu

In article <C058AF.Mx0@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>In article <1hvirgINNkjf@uwm.edu>, jeet@point.cs.uwm.edu (Jitendra Kavathekar) writes:

>>I would like some
>>recomendations from vw owners on a cheap set of steel rims and good snow
>>tires for a 92 Jetta gli(16v).

>Get a copy of Road & Track and find the Tire Rack or Tire America ads. They
>sell the steel rims for about $65 each. VW will sell them to you for
>about $115. The rims are OEM rims, in fact the ones I have on the GTI
>have the VW stampings crossed out.

I bought a complete set of Pirelli Winter 210s and a set of OEM 6X15
steel wheels for my G60.  The steel wheels cost $50 each and the
185/55 HR15 Pirellis cost $92.  I got them from Eurotire.  Tire Rack
had the same tires for 3 bucks less, but wanted 10 or 20 bux more
for the wheels.

The Pirelli 210s are very good in the snow, but they are not studdable.
The best thing I like about them is that they are as quiet as a summer
tire on bare pavement.  No humming or groans whatsoever.

The steel wheels are pretty stylish looking for steels, and blend
in very well with the Corrado's styling.

I think that the GLI will take 14 inchers (I've seen one with them)
which will open up a far wider selection of snow tires.  If you stick
to 15, then your selection will be extremely limited.  If you can get
the right size, the Nokia Hakkapellitas (sp?) are reputed to be the
ultimate snow tires.  I couldn't find any to fit the Corrado.


eliot

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: VW on LSD!?!?
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 08:43:50 GMT

In <BzJCCG.HCp@mach1.wlu.ca> shap5535@mach1.wlu.ca (Jason Shapiro u) writes:


>   A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE A3 CHASIS
>   -------------------------------

>  Oh I don't know, I really wanted a VR6 Golf (now that the GTI is all but dead
>(No mention of how in my mind it died in '90 when they went to standard euro
>across the board, achem), but now I guess I'll have to wait for the first 
>person to figure out how to shoehorn a VR6 into an A2 chasis. How about a 
>rewardof a big smiley :-) for the first person to do it??

I guess it'd fit. They (VW) must've tested it in the A2
chassis before the A3 was released. It takes much longer to
develop an engine than to come up with a new model using an
existing engine/drivetrain.

My guess is that there'd be a few engineers at VW with big
smiles on their faces having left a Porsche 944 (or similar)
standing at the lights with a "beat-up old A2 Golf". (Gotta
test the traction control you know!)

Can you imagine it? Porsche owner rushes to the workshop and
complains to the mechanic about poor performance? Couldn't
drag off a Golf CL 1.3 litre? :-)

Merry Xmas.
-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _--_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /      \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.--._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
From: eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] VW Bug survivability in hot climate?
Date: 24 Dec 92 15:00:32 GMT
Organization: College of Business, University of Florida


I live in Florida... mighty hot summers.  A friend of mine used to have a VW 
Bus, and she said that she used to blow head gaskets in summer, and have 
lots of overheating problems.  She didn't have an oil cooler.

Should I worry about this before buying a Bug?  Should I install an oil 
cooler?  Any strong feelings about which one?  or where?

Thanks!

Eric

Oh yeah, any mail order parts houses you particularly like or hate?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: [A&W (root beer?)] Reading Material
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 15:00:16 GMT

Ok, besides rallying, autoxing, driving, fixing, restoring, etc..
I like to read about VWs (got a fairly extensive collection
of Bug and GTI related stuff). During the past few days the
following items of interest have come in:

YOUR CLASSIC magazine from the UK. 12 Pages on the latest "classic"
(declared by them) - MKI Golf GTI (Rabbit GTIs on this side of
the pond). Interesting stuff....probably raise the price of
GTIs over there a few quid!

Interestingly enough there was a few lines about the GTI v GTi
controversy...in short GTi is used in advertising while
GTI is used on the car.


If you are restoring a bug of any year here are a couple of good
books to have:

CAR of the CENTURY (vol 1 - 1930 thru 1960, vol 2 - 1961 thru 1980)
by JT Garwood. Available from Rocky Mountain Motorworks (800)
258-1996. Lists EVERY change to EVERY conceivable part for
each model year. A must for anal retentive restorers who need
to have each and every part correct.

BTW, RMW has a neat 1993 calendar with the photos from the 1953
book...A Week at the Factory - $12.00. Unlike the VW Trends
calendar, there are not tits.

For those restorers who are less anal, there is volume I of
THE BEETLE: CHRONICLE OF THE PEOPLE'S CAR by Etzold. Available
from Classic Motorbooks as well as RMW. Lists the "major" 
changes year by year.

And finally for a classic book...VW Nine Lives Later by Dan
Post, covers VW history from 1930-1965. Still in print and
available from CM or RMW.

Got to run to the garage and fire up the 56!  :-)

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Subject: [A] Wanted: VW Frame/Pan/Floor Compatible with 72 Bug
Organization: Naval Underwater Sound Center, New London CT
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 18:03:20 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

After much consideration, I've decided that I'd like to replace the frame on my
1972 Standard Bug this spring.  

The front end on the frame is badly cracked/rusted/broken, and although it's
been welded and patched together, I'd like to replace it.  Also the floor pans
are badly rusted.  

The rest of the car, engine, transmission, exterior, interior is in pretty good
shape, so I don't want to just junk this bug and get a whole different bug.

So, my questions are:

   Where can I find a frame to replace my cracked one?  Local bug shops? Bone
   Yards? ???

   What should I look for specifically?

   What frames are compatible with a 72 Standard Bug?

   How much would one cost?

   How much would it cost to have someone do the switch for me?

   How hard would it be to do the switch myself?

   Has anyone ever done this; can anyone detail what the major steps would be?

Thanks, Jim Baranski

James Baranski            | It's Not Easy Keeping Vaxen Working ...  Underwater!
Vax Systems Analyst       | BARANSKI@VEAMF1.NUSC.NAVY.MIL 203-440-6510, 889-4968
Lanman Hill, Norwich CT   | Be: Thoughtfull, Honest, Yourself, Happy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tkunnas@phoenix.oulu.fi (Tapani Kunnas)
Subject: Re: Splitting this Group
Organization: University of Oulu, Finland
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 17:41:59 GMT

Please let me tell my humble opinion from cold and dark Finland. I have a 
1970 Beetle. I would like to read this group, but unfortunately I don't
have much time for it. And when I have the time, there are so many articles
that it's practically impossible to pick just the air-cooled ones. So I must
mostly just mark all articles as read and hope to some day have more time
to search through this newsgroup.

The idea of splitting this group sounds great. People who are interested in
only air or water cooled VW's may read just the group they like. And those
lucky people who can afford many VW's and are interested in both groups, have
still the opportunity to read all VW articles.

Thank you.
--
Tapani Kunnas * tkunnas@phoenix.oulu.fi * tkunnas@zombie.oulu.fi
----------------------------------------------------------------
    Phone: (your int. code) +358 - (9)81 - 5561288, 5562298
     Snail mail: Yliopistokatu 24A205, 90570 Oulu, Finland 


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Will camber adjustment affect the toe-in in an Audi 85 5000s?
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 18:07:34 GMT

In article <1hrii3INNl4l@sumax.seattleu.edu>, chan@sumax.seattleu.edu (Anthony K.B. Chan) writes:
|> Will the toe-in be affected if I only adjust the camber only(for an 85 Audi
|> 5000s)? If the answer is 'yes' then why?

Depends on the car.  The older air-cooled Type 1 Bugs and Ghias had the camber adjusted
by either shims (old link pins) or ball joints that were positioned above and below
the steering arm connected to the hweel hub.  Any change in the camber resulted in a
rotation of the wheel roughly near the steering arm so that the distance between the
two steering arms did not change much.

However, on the water-cooled (and Super Beetle with McPherson strut) the camber is
adjusted by an eccentric bolt above the steering arm.  On these cars any change in 
the camber results in the wheel pivoting to/from its contact point on the ground.
This causes the distance between the steering arms to decrease with increasing 
positive camber (top of wheel in).  Since the tie-rods are fixed in length, any
attempt to move the steering arms closer will cause the front of the wheels to turn
inward. Thus, for increasing positive camber you will get more toe-in.

Going from 0 to 2 degrees positive camber on my GTi results in about a 1/2 inch
of added toe-in, which must be taken out.  

If your Audi has the typical McPherson strut suspension with cam bolts above the
steering arms, then you should see a definite affect on toe-in for any significant
change in camber.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kokerj@jec326.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor: Life and Death
Keywords: oxygen sensor, vw
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 17:24:50 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.142058.19560@ll.mit.edu> hemenway@ll.mit.edu writes:
>OK Fahrvergnugern:
>
>What's the real story on the life and death of an
>oxygen sensor?  What happens when they die? Do
>they take other parts of the exhaust system 
>(to hell) with them or do they just produce a rough 
>idle (purgatory it is)?  Does replacing them entail risk of 
>expensive-to-remove broken parts and mangled threads?  
>Finally, where can I mail-order a VW-spec sensor for 
>the fewest $$ if you talk me into replacing it myself?
>My '84 GTI has 97000 miles, is on its first and only 
>oxygen sensor and the car runs just fine.

Replace it. I replaced mine at 93K and it smoothed the idle
right out. I believe that it requires a 22mm wrench and it
comes right out. The new Bosch sensors cost ~$35 from the 
dealer and come with a dab of anti-seize on them. Just
start it in by hand.

Also consider changing your fuel filter if you never have.
(~$25). I did that on a separate occasion and that took care
of rough starts. Total time for both jobs 1 to 1-1/2 hours.
(The latter if you cannot easily get under the car).
Good luck.

--Jim



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: drew@cs.uoguelph.ca (Andrew MacPherson)
Subject: Split or no split?
Organization: University of Guelph
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 01:38:26 GMT
X-Posted-From: drew.cs.uoguelph.ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: sol.ctr.columbia.edu

As an owner of a 74 Super Beetle, an 80 Rabbit LS and a 92 Golf diesel,
I feel compelled to add my voice to the clamour of this newsgroup.  Are
we as VW owners not close enough to family to put up with eachother?
There are a fair number of readers who have stated their desire to read both
air and water articles in one group, and I must agree wholeheartedly.
I think thinks should stay the way they are... for simplicity's sake...
...Drew
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw