HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: Pickup truck cover
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 20:40:26 GMT

In article <1689C7044.D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU>, D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar) writes:
|> Has anyone seen or made a flat cover for a pickup truck bed? Not a cap
|> but one that fits inside the top edge of the bed ot rests on top.

yep.

|> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
|> *                                                                       *
|> *  STEVE RIMAR                       INTERNET: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU  *
|> *  INFORMATION SERVICES              BITNET:   D1SAR@AKRONVM            *
|> *  THE UNIVERSITY OF AKRON                                              *
|> *  AKRON, OHIO  44325           "TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING IS WONDERFUL" *
|> *                                                                       *
|> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Oh, you probably want me to describe it too.  I built a frame the size
of my pickup bed out of 1x4's and covered it with a tarp.  The latch
came from my garage door, and works on much the same principle (after
some modification).  The lid hinges on wood blocks in the stake pockets
on the passenger side.  A cord holds the lid (when open) about 15 degrees
past vertical.  If I were to build it again, I would put more thought
in the latch.  It works fine, but there might be a better way.  I can
open the endgate without opening the lid (or undoing any latches).  It's
not completely waterproof, but nearly so.  Total cost in materials: $30.00.

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Intergraph Corporation		Huntsville, AL
Electronics Division		(205) 730-8537

To the cat, the experimenter is problematic.
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:50:48 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


Don't know if someone has said this already but the circular saw of choice among 
carpenters seems to be the skill worm drive.  I have a makita hypolod(?) and can 
attest to the fact that the skil cuts smooth as silk, very well balanced, no vibration.
At Home depot i think it sells for around $130-140.
From: dick.brewster@pcs.sj.ca.us (Dick Brewster) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Acrylic Problem
Date: 8 Nov 92 18:51:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085
Reply-To: dick.brewster@pcs.sj.ca.us (Dick Brewster) 

TO: rhg@psuvm.psu.edu

SU..I finally got around to cutting some 1/4-inch acrylic for cabinet shelves
  ..after a couple of years, but now I find that the paper backing has stuck
  ..fast.  I've tried heating a portion, full-strength detergent, soaking
    ....

I've had some success removing sticky stuff by cooling it.  I don't know of it
will work in your case, but you might try sticking your shelves in a freezer
for a few hours and then try peeling them.

You might also try homebuilt aircraft group, some of those people might have
had to solve the same problem using old plexiglass.  The backing really sticks
to that stuff when it gets old.

              Good Luck

---
 . SLMR 2.1a #320 . Backup not found: (a)bort (r)etry (p)anic
                          
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:29:08 EST
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      chest of drawers

Last winter I made the chest exactly as Norm described execpt fo the
base which I found out had no dimensions in the plans.  Everything
worked fine and to date has held together well.  I used cherry for
everything except the frames which were oak except where they are
exposed in the fromnt.  I did add oak blocks on the inside of the feet
for additional support.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt)
Subject: Does Roy Underhill's Woodrights (wrights?) Show sell tapes?
Organization: College of Oceanography, Oregon State Univ
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:22:50 GMT

Hi:
Subject almost says it all.
I missed his last show where he "chatted" with Toshio Odate.  My wife
saw it and keeps telling me things she saw.  Drives me nuts that I
missed it.  Do they sell tapes of episodes?  She didn't see anything at
the end of the show on our local PBS channel.

              |   ||        Tim Holt / Marine Technician / RV Wecoma
+--==o_____+-/|--+||        College of Oceanography / Oregon State
_____|  R/V WECOMA  ~-----/ Corvallis, OR USA, 97331-5503	(503)737-4447
+------------------------'  holtt@oce.orst.edu
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Scraping versus Sanding
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:24:24 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <5330101@hpindda.cup.hp.com>, gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz) writes:
|> 
|> I would scrape rather than sand.
|> 
|> A good quality steel scraper, properly edged and burnished, will give you a
|> much better surface than sanding.

The context to which Paul wrote the above statement applied to oak, and I 
think I agree.  However, I wish to raise the question whether scraping is
*always* preferable to sanding, particularly in "problem" woods.  

For example, I'm currently working on a project made from very curly maple
(infact it looks like what I've seen described as "quilted maple".)  It's 
very beautiful wood, but very hard to work.  Planing it with an extremely 
sharp plane leaves a very good finish, however, in certain spots on the
"waves" of the grain, where the fibers are essentially end grain, the 
wood tears ever so slightly.  I've had abysmal luck in trying to scrape
it smooth.  The scraper in fact dulls the shine left on the rest of the
wood which had planed well.  I've spent considerable time sharpening and 
burnishing my scrapers, but haven't gotten much of an improvement.

Then I went to an autobody paint house supply house and bought super fine
grits of sand paper from 400 to 2000 grit.  I sanded a section of this 
troublesome wood using increasing grits of sand paper from 220 to 1500.
Using this laborsome technique I was able to achieve a shine on the wood
that approached that left by planing, but even better, the problem spots
on the wood were no longer slightly torn.  

So then what's my problem?  I hate sanding.  Furthermore, even after spending
considerable time with increasing grits, there are still some tenacious deeper
scratches that are still visible left from some of the courser grits.  

So, the question is then, is my scraper technique faulty, or are there indeed
situations where sanding is the only way to get a good finish.

thanks!
-joel
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Acrylic Problem
Date: 8 Nov 92 17:28:00 GMT
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085

TO:         RHG@PSUVM.PSU.EDU


S>I finally got around to cutting some 1/4-inch acrylic for cabinet shelves
 >after a couple of years, but now I find that the paper backing has stuck
 >fast.

S>Anybody had similar experiences?

Yes - throw it away and buy some new stuff.  Sorry.

I don't know if it's an evil capitalist plot to increase acrylic sales,
or just an accident of adhesive chemistry, but that stuff bonds _tight_
after a few years.

---
 . QMPro 1.0 07-2042 . ...from San Jose, CA
                                                                                                                     
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Subject: Re: Acrylic Problem
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 18:23:52 GMT


>
>I finally got around to cutting some 1/4-inch acrylic for cabinet shelves
>after a couple of years, but now I find that the paper backing has stuck
>fast.  I've tried heating a portion, full-strength detergent, soaking
>in the bathtub (the pieces are there now), and scraping with plastic and
>wood.  The scraping works, but slowly, oh how slowly.  And I'm afraid to
>experiments with solvents; I could easily destroy the surface.
>
>Anybody had similar experiences?
>
>Rob

After much trying I have found that turpentine is the ONLY thing that
will do the job.  Wet the surface with turp and keep it wet for about
an hour, by then the glue is soft enough to scrap off.  This is a slow
and messy process but does work. ( No mineral spirits will NOT do the     
same thing.)  Alcohol will do a quicker job BUT, the cooling/shrinking
of the surface causes it to craze -- visably.  Nice affect if you don't
need a clear surface, otherwise go the slow turp route.


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Using half of blade stabilizer: didn't work for me
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 16:24:30 GMT

   I recently bought a pair of the tablesaw blade stabilizers from Freud.
On attempting to use them, I found that the thickness of the stabilizer
moved my blade over to interfere with the table insert.  Remembering that
someone on the net had this problem and proposed using only the outer 
stabilizer, I removed the inner one and ripped a trial board with a
Freud rip blade.  

   I was extremely dissatisfied with the sawmarks on the cut, and started 
checking the overall alignment of the blade with the fence, mitre slots, 
etc. (note: I moved recently). I was astonished to find that the blade was
noticibly concave, apparently from the stabilizer forcing the blade against
the smaller diameter stop on the arbor. I'd ballpark the depth of concavity
at around 1/16"!  I loosened the arbor nut, and the blade straightened 
(whew!).

   I then put both stabilizers back on, and the blade remained straight.
Using a shop-made hardboard insert, I did a test rip, with excellent
results: better cut, smoother feed, and less noise, as compared to cuts
made with no stabilizers.

   I wanted to point out this potential problem, and see if anyone has
further observations on this experience.  Also, I'm considering buying
a couple of those plastic inserts: has anyone tried them?
-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 Moto and I disclaim       	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 everything in this post.	*
*********************************************************************************
From: furr@pilot.njin.net (Grover Furr)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: computer indexes to woodworking mags
Keywords: computer,indexes
Date: 7 Nov 92 02:01:46 GMT
Organization: Montclair State College, Upper Montclair, NJ


I saw the names of two software indexes to Woodworking mags a couple
of months ago, and didn't save them. Could someone please either post
them again or email me the info? If emailed, I'll repost. In either
case, thanks.


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Grover C. Furr

Home: 121 Oakland Terrace               Work: English Department
      Newark, NJ 07106                        Montclair State College
      ARS AA2GP                               Upper Montclair, NJ 07043
email: furr@pilot.njin.net
       furr@apollo.montclair.edu
 
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: sjc@cs.purdue.edu (Steve Chapin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: computer indexes to woodworking mags
Date: 8 Nov 92 17:04:11 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Sciences, Purdue University
NNTP-Posting-Host: bredbeddle.cs.purdue.edu
In-reply-to: furr@pilot.njin.net's message of 7 Nov 92 02:01:46 GMT

}} In article <Nov.6.21.01.46.1992.2027@pilot.njin.net> furr@pilot.njin.net (Grover Furr) writes:
}} 
}} I saw the names of two software indexes to Woodworking mags a couple
}} of months ago, and didn't save them. Could someone please either post
}} them again or email me the info? If emailed, I'll repost. In either
}} case, thanks.

I didn't see this.  If someone does have them, and they're in the
public domain, I'd be interested in adding them to the woodworking
information archive.

sjc@cs.purdue.edu               Steve Chapin           Today's Grammar Lesson:
   Brake your bike before the wall, or you'll break your bike upon the wall!

             "Home is the place where, when you have to go there,
                          They have to take you in."
               			-- Robert Frost, "The Death of the Hired Man"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: M19120@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Repairing Oak Plywood
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:02:06 GMT

I'm building a desk out of oak and oak plywood.  After gluing a 1/4 "
strip of oak to the edge of the plywood, I trimmed the edge with a
router and a straight trim bit with bearing.  This worked well for
most of the edges but on one the router bit removed a small section
of oak veneer exposing the next layer of plywood.
 
What is the best way to repair the damaged area?
 
How can I prevent this from happenning again?
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lfm@pgroup.com (Larry Meadows)
Subject: Re: Circular Saw recommendations
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 05:26:27 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The Portland Group, Portland, OR

In article <1992Nov11.170348.19950@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>Larry Meadows writes
>
>It's called the Exact-T-Guide system. It costs about $200 from mail order
>places such as Woodworker's Supply.
Right, the manufacturer is:
	Exac-T-Guide
	BradPark Industries, Inc.
	91 Niagara St.
	Toronto, Ont., Canada M5V 1C3
	(416) 594-9455, (416) 461-1601
>
>
>But the article wasn't happy with any of the units tested. As I recall,
>the arm of the Exact-T-Guide, since it's only supported at one end, has
>quite a bit of flex in it. I forget the exact amount of play, but it was
>a lot more than the 1/100" the manufacturer claims.

I get the impression that he was quite happy with it:

[ after ignoring the directions and setting up the fence the wrong way,
  he says: ]
"By readjusting the fence as prescribed, I eliminated all of the bow.
The entire setup is a simple procedure that shouldn't take more than about
an hour, including setting the U-channel"

Then, in the conclusion:

"My favorite tool for working with plywood is Exac-T-Guide.  It
produces ripcuts and crosscuts that are more accurate than possible
with my tablesaw and with a lot less stress and strain.  The built-in
carriage locks and accessory stops make it easy to set the saw for
repeat cuts that yield exactly the same size panels...."

He does, however, say that when using a router,
"Both ends of the T-square must be clamped when routing dadoes; otherwise,
there's enough play in the free end of the T-square to allow the dado
to drift off course by 1/8 in."

Overall, however, I'd have to say that the tone of the article is very
positive.  That's why I ordered it (esp. since I don't have room for a
big table saw).

Fine Woodworking, #95, July-August 1992.
-- 
Larry Meadows		The Portland Group
lfm@pgroup.com
From: willo@youcon.Central.Sun.COM (Doug Willoughby  Area SE  - Midwest Area )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shaper Cutter
Date: 13 Nov 92 06:42:49 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems - Southfield, Michigan
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: youcon.central.sun.com


Having just acquired a Delta medium duty shaper,
(my highest recommendations: innovative design and
well manufactured), I'm now in the market for
cutters. I'm accummulating a library of catalogs.
Suggestions on sources?


Doug
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 02:08:52 GMT

Tibor Polgar writes
> In article 19849@adobe.com, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
> >Byrom *was* made in the US (mostly), but they're out of business.
> 
> Really??? 

Really. 

I've had 3 independent confirmations. One from Woodpecker's, a mail order 
outfit that used to sell Byrom bits. One from Woodhaven, another mail order 
outfit that used to sell Byrom bits. The third one was from Eagle America, who 
bought out most of Byrom's remaining inventory and was/is selling it off.
Also note that Woodcraft no longer mentions Byrom in their current catalog.


> I just bought a BYROM bit and talked just few days ago to a factory rep, 
> tho the rep was for American Wood Products I think. 

Let me know if you talk to a Byrom rep.

> So it seems to me that they were
> instead just bought out.

They were what?

Anyway, Woodpecker's said they ran into tax problems and the IRS closed them 
down. I've not had confirmation from another source on this. I've noticed that 
there seems to be a continuing supply of the vertical panel raising bits, which 
were invented by Woodhaven with Byrom having a license to manufacture. I don't 
know who has the license now.


> BTW  i asked the rep about the "made in U.S.A" thing 
> and she was a bit vague about how much "mostly" US made was.

Many Byrom bits were actually stamped "Made in USA" or "Made in Taiwan" on the 
shank.

I found it interesting that Eagle America is located in Chardon, OH, which is 
where Byrom used to be located. Also, many of the dimensions of the Byrom bits 
were identical to Eagle's. But, Eagle won't tell you who makes their bits for 
them. For instance, the only manufacturer of HSS forstner bits is Convaloco, 
which is a US company. Woodcraft sells Convaloco bits. Eagle also sells HSS 
forstner bits in the exact same dimensions as the Convalocos, but Eagle  
wouldn't admit to me on the phone that Convaloco made them for Eagle.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A new toy store!
Date: 5 Nov 92 19:24:11 GMT
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
: Last weekend, Eagle Hardware opened in Anchorage.  Three acres (yes,
: THREE ACRES!) of hardware, wood, and everything else a woodworker
: can dream of...

That's it! Now I can move to Alaska! Denver has been getting a little
crowded lately.....

MMF
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier)
Subject: Re: dust collector or bomb? help
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1992 14:54:29 GMT
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

jssg3464@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (John S. Schmidt) writes:
: I am building a dust collection system in my shop.  I am usine 4" PVC pipe to run the vaccum lines to each piece of equipment.  When I told a friend this he    said "You are building a bomb."  He said that the static electricity would build up in the tube and ignite the dust.  To avoid this he suggested running a bare copper wire the length of the system and connecting it to a ground.  Is this    really a concern? If so, is the copper wire the best solution?  Your advice is  needed.  Thankyou.

He's right. There was an issue of WOOD magazine a couple years ago which went
into great detail on how to correctly build such a system. Plastic ducts
with grounding wires was one solution. The other was metal ducts. I'll look
up the month/issue number for you tonight.

MMF
From: gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help!  Table Saw Top is damaged!
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:16:20 GMT
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA

donne+@pitt.edu (Jeffrey D Donne) writes:
>
>   I know that this is a common question, but I never needed 
>to pay attention until now.  Recently, someone was doing 
>laundry at my house and decided that a convenient place to 
>hang their wet clothes was on the top of my table saw.  
>Needless to say, the top is rusted, badly in places, maybe
>even pitted -- and so now I have to repair it.
>
>   Can anyone suggest first, how to remove the rust, and secondly,
>the preferred method for preserving the top after it is clean.
>I seem to recall some folks suggesting standard car wax for the 
>table top, others suggest spraying it with WD-40.
>
>   Any and all comments are much appreciated!

   The most important thing is to try to preserve the flatness of the 
   top.   Of course, you want wood to move smoothly across the top, but
   keeping it flat is essential to good cuts.

   To remove the rust:   use a wire brush to get up all the loose rust.
   Then, take a sheet of 500 grit sandpaper wrapped around a wood sanding
   block and sand the top down using the longest possible strokes, front
   to back (be sure to use a dust mask).  

   This will remove the minimum amount of metal and will preserve the
   flatness of your saw if it can be preserved.   Do not try to sand out
   small pitted areas, as this will ruin the flat top.    They should not
   interfere with wood movement, remember, they are LOWER than the rest
   of the table.

   Do not use a belt sander on your saw table, you will ruin the flat and
   be dissatisfied with its performance henceforward.

   If it is worth it to you, you can take it to a machine shop, and for about
   $60.00 they will grind it dead flat.   However, you may have problems
   with the blade inserts henceforward.  You can file the tabs down inside
   and this will fix it.

   Good Luck!
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Homebrew Dust Collector
Date: 7 Nov 92 03:31:11 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Nov5.144255.6315@spectrum.xerox.com> chris@xerox.com writes:
|Chris Lewis remarks (re: the Workshop Book's attic fan & furnace filter 
|homebrew dust remover): "It's really only suitable for *large* shops"

|If you select the right sized fan, such a set up can be 'sized' to smaller 
|or larger shops.  F'rinstance, the area of my basement where the shop is 
|roughly 600 square feet with 7 foot ceilings, or 4200 cubic feet.  A small 
|800 cfm attic fan (rather than the monster used in the WSB, what was it, 
|2000 cfm?) in a furnace filter box setup keeps the air pretty clear without 
|causing too much draft.  If you're in a really tight area, you could even
|make one with a few muffin fans.

I haven't seen the WSB's furnace filter arrangement.  I was talking about
the BHG WOOD one (Oct or Nov '92 methinks) which is a box about 2x3x3'
high on casters with an ordinary 1/4HP 600-800 CFM furnace blower.  Which
would seem to me to be in the way most of the time.  The other units
I've seen with the blower mounted on the ceiling make more sense.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Date: 11 Nov 92 23:57:28 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems


In article 19849@adobe.com, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
>Tibor Polgar writes
>> >Right now I have an immediate need for a good set of router bits.
>> 
>> Try BYROM,  or CMT.   Both are US i think. 
>
>Byrom *was* made in the US (mostly), but they're out of business.

Really???   I just bought a BYROM bit and talked just few days ago to a factory rep, 
tho the rep was for American Wood Products I think.   So it seems to me that they were
instead just bought out.   BTW  i asked the rep about the "made in U.S.A" thing 
and she was a bit vague about how much "mostly" US made was.

>Bosch and Freud bits can be gotten from ITC of Florida (800) 338-3384 at
>40% off, which is a good deal.

I too have to plug ITC, they are very fast, helpful and its fun to see what type of
recycled box my bits are going to come in this time.