HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: whs70@dancer.uucp (22501-sohl)
Subject: Re: Jags?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: alt
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 12:42:19 GMT

In article <PVA.92Oct7113956@lesti.hut.fi> pva@lesti.hut.fi (Pekka A Valtonen) writes:
>
>	I was wondering if theres any Jaguar fans reading this group?
>	Or if theres a mailing list for Jaguars or British cars in 
>	general, I would like to join in.
>	I'm particularly interested on Jaguar Mk2, since I'm restoring one.
>	Also interested on specialist Jaguar spares companies in the US.
> These are endless galaxies which are yours.	    ##
> You can journey to infinity through the endless   ##  Pekka Valtonen
> passages of the cosmos. Even better,        	##  pva@vipunen.hut.fi
> this all belongs to you. This is your mind.	    ##  k34403r@taltta.hut.fi

I don't know about a list only for Jaguar, but we do have a british-cars
email list.  The email address is:
                                   
                                    autox.team.net!british-cars

That is an email address in the USA, so you would need to add whatever
is appropriate to direct your request to the USA.

To get on the british-cars email list you should send a request to
join/subscribe to:

      autox.team.net!british-cars-request

I'll also send a copy of your post above to the list maintainer in
case you have trouble getting to it.

Standard Disclaimer- Any opinions, etc. are mine and NOT my employer's.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note - If email replying to me with an automatic addressing process
bounces, manually address the resend using one of the addresses below.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Sohl (K2UNK) BELLCORE (Bell Communications Research, Inc.)
Morristown, NJ             email via UUCP      bcr!dancer!whs70
201-829-2879 Weekdays      email via Internet  whs70@dancer.cc.bellcore.com
From: cobra@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Roland Dudley)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 21:02:14 GMT
Subject: Re: Need Some Corvair Info.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique

In alt.autos.antique, robie@umbc4.umbc.edu (Mr. William Robie; POSI (GRAD)) writes:

> Does anyone happen to have the address and phone number for CORSA (CORvair
> Society of America)?  Any other people on the net who still thumb their


Corvair Society of America
2506 Gross Point Rd.
Evanston, IL 60201 
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden)
Subject: Re: 1956 Mercury Information
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 16:11:31 GMT
Keywords: mercury

In article <hennie.23.0@nuustak.csir.co.za>, hennie@nuustak.csir.co.za (Hennie Rautenbach) writes:
> Hi
> 
> How I wish I could obtain such a book here in South Africa. Prices on 
> classic cars are thumb-sucked here in most cases. I'm a fins and chrome 
> fanatic but these cars (55 to 61) are extremely rare to come by. Only a few 
> US cars were produced locally during that period. The most popular 
> collectors items of that period is most definitely Chevy's, especially the 
> 57 Bel Air and the 59 Bel Air and Impala. 
> 
> What would the value in US $ be of a restored 57 Bel Air Sport Coupe and a 4 
> door with the stovebolt six ? Are they fairly common there ?
> 
> Cars with a high collectors value in South Africa is mainly British 
> Classics, eg. 69 Jenson Interceptor, Aston Martin DB6, etc.
> 
> Maybe we can compare prices accross the globe....
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Hennie Rautenbach

Hennie,

According to the Aug 1992 Old Cars Price Guide the following info is:

1957 Bel Air 2dr HardTop    6      5     4     3     2     1
                           850    2750  4600  9200 16100 23000

1957 4 door sedan *        450    1000  1600  3300  6250  8900
*(deduct 10% for 6cly)

Be interested in knowing how these compare with your local $$.

doug linden
From: bill@ecn.purdue.edu (Bill Drake)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Fender Puzzle
Date: 16 Oct 92 14:43:31 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Purdue

In article <1bk7jaINNkfn@shirley.cs.widener.edu> ware@cs.widener.edu (Mark
Ware) writes:

>The problem:  Which is the better way to proceede?  Should I hang the new
>rust free fenders and try to straighten out the dents, (one fender has a
>rather large dent in it) or cut the rust off the existing ones and graft in
>good metal from the junk fenders? 
>
>This is my first crack at a some resto work, and I dont have any friends with
>experience to draw on so any help/experiences/opinions would be helpful.
>
>-- 
>Mark Ware                          My employer has no idea I have net access.
>ware@cs.widener.edu
>


I'd go for straighting the dents out, much easier and safer. You could end
up two junk sets of fenders the other way.

I would search for some patch panels for your rusted fenders before I cut up
your other pair.


Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

47 Ford Club Coupe////454/AT/3:00////  the "Fat Rat"
69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: US Old Car Study
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:16:56 GMT

Interesting "book review" in this week's issue of Old Car Weekly.
The Office of Technology Assessment, Congress of US has published a
report "Retiring Old Cars: Program to Save Gasoline and Reduce Emissions."
The report can be had for $2.50 from the:


Superintendent of Documents
P.O. Box 371954
Pittsburgh, PA 15250-7954

The author of the review, Mac Spears, did a pretty poor review, which
is mainly due to (in his words) "I haven't gotten beyond the first part
of this impressive costs and benefits study. .....text omitted...... I
don't want to confuse my understanding of the issues with *their* (italics)
facts."    I think he could have been a little more open-minded.

In any case, I am sending off for this document.  I'll give my review of
it later, if anyone is interested.

Mark

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: overland@lonestar.utsa.edu (Michael A. Overland)
Subject: Re: on that 68 continental, no manual, but that 460...
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:06:02 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.165208.26099@athena.mit.edu> kdrolt@athena.mit.edu (Kenneth D Rolt) writes:
>"4v" means 4 venturi. barrel is autospeak for a venturi, so
> 4v carb = 4 barrel carb.
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>	R   2	      Real Monza	     kdrolt@athena.mit.edu
>	|___|					grad student !!
>	|   |	'64 Corvair Convertible      mit ocean engineering
>	1   3					underwater sound
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>

 I never knew that.  I always assumed that a marking like 4-v stood for
four valves pre cyllinder.  You learn something new everyday.
Michael Overland
--
From: crispin@athos.rutgers.edu (Rick Crispin)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: what is the true definition of antique & classic
Date: 14 Oct 92 18:27:06 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


What are the true years for Antique & Classic ????  



-rick
From: sk48+@andrew.cmu.edu (Scott Koltick)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: 63 Lincoln Continentals for sale
Date: 15 Oct 92 23:01:25 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I own three 63 Lincolns.  Two hard tops and a convertible.  The two
hardtops have around 75,000 miles, and are mostly original.  The
covertible only has about 57,000 on the original engine and frame, but
its beat.  About 70% disassembled.  
    The one sedan hardtop, my daily driver before I came to school, runs
good and is the one currently for sale, however, if there is any
interest on the other sedan or the convertible (somebody that feels
really ambitious to tackle a real project) as a pair.  I mention this
because except for a few minor things, the body of the sedan (which is a
southern car and is near perfect) can be mounted on the convertible
(which was and still is a Pittsburgh car, and the body on it isn't worth
anything), along with everything else.  Engine, transmission, frame
(except for a few crossmembers) etc. are interchangeable.
These cars are real beauties.  Power everything and 430's on al three.  
    Anyone interested, or just want to talk about old Lincolns, I know a
lot, but am always in the mood to know more, can call me at (412)
268-4478 (Carnegie Mellon University) or can talk to my Dad, John, where
he cars are kept at (412)833-5795.  
Or you can send me E-mail at sk48@andrew.cmu.edu
Thanks for your interest,

Scott Koltick

"My pappy said son you're gonna drive me to drinkin if you don't stop
drivin that Hot Rod Lincoln."
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Fender Puzzle
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:59:01 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 I'd bang out the dents with the fenders off the car. A body hammer and
a dolly suited to the area you're working will be needed. With care you
can get pretty close to the original lines. If the dent is large but
"soft" (no sharp creases, just bent in), use a sand bag or a pit of loose
sand formed to the panel and pop it with a rubber mallet from the 
backside. With luck you may end up right as it used to be.

 Banging dents is easier than getting rid of rust IMO.

 Then you can clean, prime and paint if you want at your leisure and put
a clean fender on your car with no further activity required.

 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: on that 68 continental, no manual, but that 460...
Date: 15 Oct 92 11:42:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <2928072898@ARTEMIS.cam.nist.gov> miller@FS1.cam.nist.gov (Bruce R. Miller) writes:
>
>In article <1992Oct14.121838.12780@cbnews.cb.att.com>, andrew.d.hay writes:
>> In article <1bfgasINNd3n@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>> "              what exactly is a 460 4-v??? i get the 460=460cid..
>> "but what does the 4-v mean??
>> 
>> 4v is/was a common notation for 4bbl, as in carb throats.
>
>The "v" is short for Venturi; so, like you say, a 4 venturi is a 4
>barrel.
>
>But now that you raise the issue, why is "bbl" short for barrel???
>Sounds like it should be a 4 bubble carb !?!??!
>
Because. That's the  same reason that capacitor under the distributor cap
in a breaker point ignition is still called a "condensor". The electronics
industry stopped using that term in the '20s, and any noise supression
capacitor anywhere else on the car is called a capacitor. Because of
tradition, it takes forever to get rid of an obsolete term.

Of course, sometimes tradition changes. When I sent my wife up to the auto
parts store to buy a new fan belt for her car, they informed her they were
no longer called "fan" belts. Did I want the alternator belt, p/s belt,
a/c belt, air pump belt, or what? Well, the last time I checked the alternator
belt still turned the fan on this car. And that's the belt I wanted.
So, excuuuuuse me!  :-)
 
>And then there's all these Aunt Efi's drivin' round in their
>personallized cars!

"  :-)  "  added here for the humor impaired.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: long distance car buying
Date: 7 Oct 1992 17:59:32 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Howdy all!
I know there was a thread on this a few months ago, but I didn't follow
it since I wasn't in the market at the time.  Anyone care to recap for me?
Specifically, I'd like to know how sales taxes are handled.  I'll be
buying (maybe) said vehicle in New York City and I'd rather not pay their
taxes.  How is this handled?  Also, what about plates?  Are there some
kind of "transit" plates?

As far as the car itself goes, what should one be aware of?  The current
owner is sending pictures.  What else should I ask for?

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique,rec.autos
From: pz@keps.kodak.com (Paul Czarnecki)
Subject: car storage
Followup-To: alt.autos.antique
Organization: Kodak Electronic Printing Systems
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 22:21:50 GMT

I need to store a car outside in both summer and winter.  The car has
been sitting outside now (on asphalt) for about 4 months.  It is not
driven while in storage.  I live in a moderatly rural area of New
Hampshire. Recently I noticed signs of mice inside the car.  This is
not good. 

What are my options?  I could put DeCon or some other chemical mouse
death in the car but I'd rather prevent them from entering in the
first place.  Mice can fit through very small holes so sealing the car
is out of the question.  I vaguely remember reading several years ago
about a product that was essentially a very rugged plastic bag you
would drive the car into, toss in 5-10lbs of silica gel, and then seal
shut with a tie.  Does such a thing exists or am I deluding myself?

For you alt.autos.antiquer's, the car isn't an antique (I park my 54
Ford Customline and my 73 VW bus inside!).  I've recently been
experimenting with the seasonal car approach, I have a summer car
(Honda CRX) and a winter car (Mazda 323).  The Mazda has been sitting
all summer and I plan on using it soon and storing the Honda.  In the
spring the positions would be reversed. 

Any suggestions?  (I've directed followups to alt.antiques.autos.
Please respect this.  And please don't flame me to talking about
non-antiques in alt.autos.anitiques.  If you do, I'll store the 54
Ford in the bag and let the Honda stay indoors! :-)

					pZ
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: milliganc@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: RE: Nash hard to start
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 16:01:47 GMT


You may not want to here/read this.  My father drove a '53 Chevy as his daily 
driver from about 1969 to '85.  After 300,000 miles it developed the same
problem of wich you speak.  What happend was the crankshaft had bent sightly
from fatigue.  Eventualy it burned a main.  I hope this is NOT the problem
with the Nash!
			Happy Motoring,
				Kilroy
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: whs70@dancer.uucp (22501-sohl)
Subject: Re: what is the true definition of antique & classic
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 12:35:12 GMT

In article <Oct.14.14.27.02.1992.9579@athos.rutgers.edu> crispin@athos.rutgers.edu (Rick Crispin) writes:
>
>What are the true years for Antique & Classic ????  

There is NO single, universally accepted answer to your question.

However, generally speaking, ANTIQUE catagorization/label is
acknowledged by the Antique Car Club of America and most individual
states that issue "antique" license plates as being 25 or more years
old.  Again, that is not for every state that issues antique license
plates nor is the AACA the final word for every car club and/or auto
collector/hobbyist.

CLASSIC is a pandora's box of individual views.  Some clubs and
people do not accept that age of a vehicle has anything to do
with being a classic.  For example, the very limited production
Dodge Viper might be thought of as a classic by some folks in just
a couple of years.  The Classic Car Society I believe recognizes individual
models of vehicles that are CHOSEN by some method amongst their membership
etc.  Likewise the Milestone car society does a similar selection.
Bottom line for classic is that there is no age factor that is even
generally viewed by a majority of the car hobby as applying to CLASSIC.
At least one state (Pennsylvania) has a classic license that can be
obtained for a vehicle that is 10 or more years old if it can be shown
that the particular model 
vehicle is no longer in production (eg. Triumph, MG, etc.)

SO.....there is no one answer to your question.

Standard Disclaimer- Any opinions, etc. are mine and NOT my employer's.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note - If email replying to me with an automatic addressing process
bounces, manually address the resend using one of the addresses below.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Sohl (K2UNK) BELLCORE (Bell Communications Research, Inc.)
Morristown, NJ             email via UUCP      bcr!dancer!whs70
201-829-2879 Weekdays      email via Internet  whs70@dancer.cc.bellcore.com

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: JLEHTIMAKI@finabo.abo.fi (Janne Lehtim{ki PAP)
Subject: Re: Please Help
Organization: Abo Akademi University, Finland
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 09:22:05 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.23


In <36410006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> kingsley@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com writes:

>               Please answer these 9 questions and return.
> 
> 1.) Do you think equal rights for men and women is generally a good idea?
> Yes                  [ ]
> Sometimes            [ ]
> No                   [ ]
> Haven't heard enough [ ]
> Other                [ ]



*********STUFF DELETED*********


What is THIS article doing in THIS newsgroup ???????????  PERKELE !!!!
                                                          ^^^^^^^^^^^^

 Janne S. Lehtimaki
 Abo Akademi University              phone : int. +358 21 65*4311  ext. 4625 
 Department of Paper Chemistry       fax   : int. +358 21 516757             
 Porthaninkatu 3                     telex : 62 301 aabib sf                 
 SF-20500 TURKU - FINLAND            e-mail: jlehtimaki@abo.fi (Internet)
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Fender Puzzle
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:58:00 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1bk7jaINNkfn@shirley.cs.widener.edu> ware@cs.widener.edu (Mark Ware) writes:
>I have a 67 Merc Cougar XR7 that I have been working on.  Ive finished with
>the motor so now Im working on the body.  The fenders have 
>rusted out right behind the front wheels.  I managed to scare up two
>fenders from a junk yard, but after stripping them I found that they are
>really dented up.  The fenders on the car are pretty straight with the
>exception of the rust.  
>
>The problem:  Which is the better way to proceede?  Should I hang the new
>rust free fenders and try to straighten out the dents, (one fender has a
>rather large dent in it) or cut the rust off the existing ones and graft in
>good metal from the junk fenders? 
>
>This is my first crack at a some resto work, and I dont have any friends with
>experience to draw on so any help/experiences/opinions would be helpful.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This is a major consideration. I'd suggest finding some experienced help,
to render an opinion, and maybe lend some help, too.

Not having seen the fenders or knowing your level of expertise, I'd start 
with the lesser dented, rust free fender and see if it could be fixed. That
way, if it doesn't work out, you can still cut the bottom off it & fix the
straight, rusty fender, and all you've lost is the time. You could also try
to make (or buy) patch panels from sheet metal for the rusty fenders
using the dented ones as a guide. (you may be able to find some prefabricated
patch panels from a mail order house - check this out as your first
alternative.)

I would proceed with caution on cutting up anything. I would look at both
pairs as potentially irreplaceable, just to keep me from doing something
foolish.

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: tretech@well.sf.ca.us (Tretech Solutions Inc)
Subject: 71 FIREBIRD FOR SALE IN NJ
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 12:06:41 GMT

FORSALE 1971 PONTIAC FIREBIRD
95,000 MILES ON CAR AND ENGINE
350 2-BARREL, FACTORY HURST 3-SPEED (ON FLOOR)
FACTORY GAUGES, RALLY PMD RIMS AND CRAGER SPOKES (ON CAR)
BLUE/BLUE INTERIOR
UNFORTUNATLY ENGINE SEIZED
TRANS. GOOD (REBUILT)
BODY CLEAN AND STRAIGHT EXCEPT REAR QUARTERS
INTERIOR FAIR (DRIVERS SEAT RIPPED)
CAR LOCATED IN MONMOUTH COUNTY NJ
OWNED AND GARAGED SINCE 1972
ASKING $1300
E-MAIL OR CALL (201)666-6836
From: ware@cs.widener.edu (Mark Ware)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Fender Puzzle
Date: 15 Oct 1992 12:51:54 -0400
Organization: Widener University CS Department, Chester PA
NNTP-Posting-Host: shirley.cs.widener.edu

I have a 67 Merc Cougar XR7 that I have been working on.  Ive finished with
the motor so now Im working on the body.  The fenders have 
rusted out right behind the front wheels.  I managed to scare up two
fenders from a junk yard, but after stripping them I found that they are
really dented up.  The fenders on the car are pretty straight with the
exception of the rust.  

The problem:  Which is the better way to proceede?  Should I hang the new
rust free fenders and try to straighten out the dents, (one fender has a
rather large dent in it) or cut the rust off the existing ones and graft in
good metal from the junk fenders? 

This is my first crack at a some resto work, and I dont have any friends with
experience to draw on so any help/experiences/opinions would be helpful.

-- 
Mark Ware                          My employer has no idea I have net access.
ware@cs.widener.edu
From: kbr@cbnews.cb.att.com (kenneth.b.reber)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Old cars and wild goose chases (long)
Date: 16 Oct 92 20:07:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Oct12.121048.24149@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>
>Awhile ago, someone posted a question about the hazards of buying a car long
>distance, to which I replied _never_ spend money on a car you haven't seen.

Following goose chases can many times be disappointing -- but rewards
sometimes can be great!  Following rumors/leads I've acquired a 1929 L29
Cord Cabriolet from a field in North Dakota, an L29 Cord Conv't Sedan and
a custom L29 Cord airport limo from a barn near Jackson Mich. and a 7K
mile 1915 7 pass. Caddy touring from a garage in Grove City OH.

Keep checking those leads!!

(BTW, although the N. Dakota car was in the open for 25 years, rust was hard
to find. It's DRY in N. Dakota.)

Ken