HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:11:58 EDT
From:         CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET
Subject:      Baby furniture plans

Well, my daughter will soon be kept up all night with those tender sounds
SHE used to make - justice prevails - but anyways - I would like to
make a changing table for her to use with the little one - only plans I
have been able to find are for a chest of drawers where the top drawer
becomes a changing table, and a plywood box that hangs on a wall.  Has
anyone run across a plan to produce a changing table as simple as the $90
dollar job sold by Penny's, Sears, etc.?  Just looking for a flat surface
with some storage underneath it.  (Hmmm.. sounds like a large rock with a
rabbit warren under it.....).    Thanks.

***********************************************************************
Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
Administrative Computing       *
State University of New York   *
College at Brockport           *
***********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:08:40 GMT

From article <4320118@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, by gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz):
> 
> 2.  cause:  Utter stupidity only.
> 
>   I had just installed a new dado blade in my tablesaw, and made a new
>   wood insert for the blade.  To cut the slot in my wood insert, I was
>   holding the insert with one hand and raising the blade up through the 
>   insert with the other.   The CORRECT way to do this is to put the rip
>   fence over the new insert, not hold it with your hand.
> 
Dados always scare the crap out of me, even though I use mine quite
a bit. The rip fence is a good idea. I've always just clamped a
2x4 to the table on top of the insert.  That way, if anything happens
only the 2x4 gets cut.

I spent some time wondering about the safe way to make a cut
when the cut is too small for the guard and the fence. My Delta
guard requires that my Biesemeyer fence can't be set less than 
3/4" from the blade. I was cutting a featherboard with 1/8" 
feathers.

I went ahead and removed the guard, carefully made each cut
with no problems, but my goal is to do as much as I can with
the safety guards in place.

-- 

Jon Bork
Phone: (801) 594-5508	Fax: (801) 594-6708	OFIS:	JEB1/CORP
internet: jon@unislc.slc.unisys.com  -or- unislc!jon
From: mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wagner FineCoat sprayer
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:27:58 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: GTE Laboratories

Does anyone have experience spraying Carver Tripp water-based polyurethanes
(gloss) using the FineCoat HVLP sprayer? I am building new oak cabinets for
my kitchen. After sanding and dust removal, I applied 2 coats of Tripp's
water-based sanding sealer with a sponge brush and lightly sanded. I am now
'practicing' my spray technique on some oak panels I prepared. The finish
is slightly stippled and looks slightly matted but still glossy (tghe
effect is not unpleasing though). I suspect that my flow is too low or I'm
too far away from the work but when I move closer or crank up the flow I
get a lot of runs. Any advice/comments appreciated.


thanks,
michael
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 1993 09:23:03 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Mail Order Wood (ARGH!)

Greetings!

Karl Thoennes writes:

>Remember my order for exotic wood from Berea Hardwoods in Ohio?
>They cashed my check in early November, and here it is '93 and I
>still haven't received it.  Every time I call, it's coming, it's coming...
>The Anchorage Fur Rendezvous Woodworking Show is next month, and there's
>no way now that I'll finish my entry in time.
>
>Before I waste another $100, has anyone had any experience with M.L. Condon
>in New York?  At least in NY I can ask my father to go bang on thier shop
>doors if they don't send my order.

No experience with M.L. Condon, but you really ought to talk to your local
post office about what to do about Berea not filling your order, or contact
the attorney general's office in your state or in Ohio.  Explain your
situation to either, and I bet you get some results.  Let me know what
happens.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: wthomas@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Thomas)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:46:12 GMT
Reply-To: wthomas@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Thomas)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

bought one two years ago.  Assembly was fairly easy but the electrical
wiring instructions were vague and almost nonexistent. Fortunately,

I have done some wiring in the Navy, so not a big deal to figure it
o
out. While testing my wiring prior to hooking up to power, I
found that the hot wire was shorted to THE CASE of the jointer!.
The electrical box had been damaged some where along the line. A quick
trip to the Home Depot got me one of those plastic wiring boxes
with which I fixed up the mess.

After plugging in and running the jointer I found that as a jointer,
it performed very well.  The vertical aligment of the knives was
perfect.  When I decided to try rabbetting, I was disappointed.
The horizontal alignment of the knives was about 1mm off toward the

fence. As I passed the board through the blades, the rabbet cut would
not be aligned with the table. DISAPPOINTING!
So much for my two cents worth.
bill thomas
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tomj@monster.apd.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Re: squiblet flurbigator
Organization: SAIC, Reston, VA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:34:12 GMT


In article 11693@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com, kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) writes:
>I don't know...  Once you get a squiblet flurbigator and start using it you'll wonder 
>how you ever got along without it.  If you buy the AMT, you'll wish you would have
>spent the extra dollars for the Delta, especially when you have to replace its plastic
>flywheel regularly (Can't beat that Delta cast platinum-rhodium flywheel!!!)

For those of you who prefer manually-powered tools, Bridge City
has a troglot flurbigator modeled after the Stanley #369b.

The only drawback is that the handle is made of Venezuelan brogldabingo
wood, which is virtually extinct.  Last year, poachers stripped
a chunk of rainforest the size of Montana to find 3 trees (enough for
9 troglots).
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf,D,6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:22:45 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

>This is clearly Amish.  A Mennonite will have power and phones.  Real Amish
>will never have power in the home.

There was an article in FW a few years ago, and as I recall the Amish did not object
to electricity; they objected to being connected to other people via the power lines.
The article showed several shops which got around the problem using motor-generators
and gas-engine compressors.

JK
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Old Finishes/Refinishing
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:35:26 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.213840.29179@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>My question is: is anyone familiar with the type of finish used on such
>pieces back then?  The finish on the good leaves is very smooth, so I'm
>not sure that it would be shellac (the shellaced pieces I've seen have never
>been so smooth).  Since it is chipping off, I don't think it would be any sort
>of oil.  Would a clear or lightly tinted lacquer behave like this?  I'd
If it is shellac, it will be soluble in alcohol. try a little on a Q-tip
and see what happens. Ditto for lacquer and lacquer thinner.
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:14:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Paul's accidents are still yet to happen to me.  What I really wanted to post
about was bad practices on Norm's show.  He always starts with a sermon about
shop safety, then never uses any of his own advice (except for safety glasses).
Blade guards are missing, kickback pawls are missing, he gets his hands over 
the cutter when dadoing or jointing.  I always feel the hair on my neck rise
as I watch him.  But the guy still has ten fingers.  I guess he's lucky. 

The other thing that bothered me was his choice of joints for the pieces
he makes.  He makes a big deal sometimes of allowing for wood movement, then in
the same piece he uses long cross-grain joints where they won't be seen.
For example, he makes a "Shaker" blanket chest top with a breadboard edge
that is pinned with a dowel in the center and has floating dowels at edges.
That's fine.  But I'll bet some Shakers were rolling in their graves when they
saw him glue a plywood dust panel to rabbets in the sides, then glue a cross-
grain cleat below to keep the drawer level.  It's bound to split the sides.

Sometimes I think his whole show is a put-on, including the safety tips.
The funniest line for me was his comment on a dual spiral staircase in
a Shaker hall that was built "without laser levels or sliding compound miter
saw ...", totally deadpan.  

Incidentally, I went to Hancock Shaker Village just to see some Shaker 
buildings and furniture last summer.  They were amazing builders, and used
all hand tools.  Now I think they were a practical lot, and would have
adopted power tools gladly, but they had a sense for good joinery that
NORM TOTALLY LACKS!!  Their joints are precise but allow for wood movement,
so they are tight after 100 years.  

I am certainly no woodworking expert, but I have seen some bad joints fail
in pieces that I have repaired.  It proved to me how important thinking about
wood movement is in furniture design.  I will probably watch Norm's show
again, but it's beginning to get to me like the sound of chalk sqeaking
across a chalkboard.  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kam@hpcvxkm.cv.hp.com (Keith Marchington)
Subject: Re: If you were going to start a small wood shop...?
Reply-To: kam@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com
Organization: UTD-CV Corvallis, OR
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 22:53:21 GMT


In article <9301061816.AA04854@TIS.COM>, richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark)
writes:
|> 
|> 	table saw, band saw, scroll saw, radial arm saw, table router,
|> lathe(s) (especially the type that automatically make copies), planer,
|> chain saw, joiner, lumber mill (the small kind that makes planks from a
|> tree, don't know really what its name is), drill press, hand drills, hand
|> router, lots of different clamps, stationary belt and disk sanders, belt
|> sander, finish sander,...
|> 
|> 	What would be missing? What else would help speed things up while
|> still keeping the end product mostly hand crafted? What tools would help put
|> a few nice finishing touches on the end product?

Power Mitre box!


Keith
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Norm replaces his wheelbarrow
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 07:20:45 GMT

I just finished watching NYW (I seldom miss it).  Norm replaced
his $39 contractors wheelbarrow with a solid oak project.  Is
this guy insane?  I can imagine a bill of over $100 for just
the materials.  And then let it get rained on.  Oh well.

He used his favorite OBO plywood with a paper coating for 
the bottom of the barrow container.  How do you finish
that stuff so that it doesn't self destruct?

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager living
in silicon valley.  If you know of an opportunity, please
let me know!
From: lendy@tivoli.UUCP (Lendy Dunaway)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Eagle Tools ???
Date: 7 Jan 93 22:33:55 GMT
Reply-To: lendy@tivoli.UUCP (Lendy Dunaway)
Distribution: na
Organization: Tivoli Systems Inc., Austin, TX

Hi! I'm new to this group and have enjoyed reading it for the past
several weeks. 

I've been talking to Jesse Barragan at Eagle Tools/Injecta Machinery
over the phone concerning the purchase of several stationary tools.
I have been pleased and impressed with his service and knowledge. In
fact I'm planning on flying to Pasadena for a mini vacation and to
finish up my purchase plans with Jesse. Before I go though I'd like
to know what others who have delt with this company have to say. I'm
planning on spending a good bit of money and don't want to make a
mistake that could be avoided. I've decided on the Inca 12" table saw
and the Inca planner/jointer. I'm crossed between the Inca 20" band
saw and the MiniMax 18" band saw. I also plan on shopping for a lathe,
belt/disc and/or edge sander and dust collector. I have been told that
all the tools at Eagle Tools are set up and can be demonstrated. Also
I was told that I would have a 30 day home trial period of any purchase.
Eagle Tools seems to have a large selection of high quality tools as well
as a strong commitment to quality and customer satisfaction. But what do
I know, I haven't bought anything yet.

Anyway, what I'd really like to know from people that have delt with
Eagle/Injecta Tool is: Am I getting a accurate impression of this dealer?
What kind of service have you received? Also since I'm going to be in the
Pasadena area are there other places I should visit? And finally I'd be
interested in any comments and/or recommendations of the tools I've mentioned.

Thanks for help
Lendy

lendy@tivoli.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: DeWalt Biscuit Joiner = ELU Biscuit Joiner?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<145002@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV>
Date: 5 Jan 93 10:54:33

In article <145002@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> spelce@trinity.llnl.gov (    Tom Spelce              ) writes:

   THE LATEST ELU AND DEWALT BISCUIT JOINERS ARE THE SAME UNITS SAVE
   FOR COLOR. ELU NOW HAS TWO JOINERS -- THE PREVIOUS ARC STYLE PLUNGE
   UNIT AND THE NEWER STRIGHT AHEAD PLUNGE. THE PRICE FOR THE NEW UNIT
   IS ABOUT 15 DOLLARS LOWER THAN THE ORIGINAL. THE ELU IS READILY AVAILABLE
   IN THE SF BAY AREA.

First:  :) please stop shouting :)

Second:  It isn't suprising.  As far as I knew ELU had always
been a B&D brand.  Not too suprising that they shared designs
on the biscuit joiner.

Doug
--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jp@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (John Pierce)
Subject: Re: Where to shop in Atlanta?
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 13:15:30 GMT
Organization: the Atlanta Technology Center
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

Michael Covington (mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu) wrote:
> Where are the good places to buy woodworking tools, furniture-grade
> wood, hardware, accessories, etc., in the Atlanta area?
> 

Highland Hardware, on Highland at Virginia.  Take Ponce de Leon and turn
North at the big, brown, brick church with brown stained-glass windows
(Druid Hills Baptist?).

> If I were to spend a Saturday looking around interesting stores in 
> Atlanta, where should I go?
> 

My wife has to drag me out of Highland.  She says it's disgusting to see
a grown man drool on the floor.  But then, I say "If I had this, I could
make you a _______."  Works every time.  The catch is, I actually have to 
make it in a reasonable amount of time! :*)

> -- 
> :-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
> :-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
> :-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
> :-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sfk@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (Steve Katz)
Subject: Scrapers - want more info
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:34:57 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard NARC Atlanta
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

I have been reading this news group for a while now and find it very
interesting.  I especially appreciate the helpful and friendly nature
of it (as opposed to many of the groups that thrive on flame wars).
Thanks to all posters for the useful information.

I was particularly interested in the recent discussions of scrapers.
After reading so many wonderful things, I set out to buy one.  As it
turns out, I have only found one store in all of Atlanta, GA that 
carries them, and they only hand two.  I bought one and took it home
to try it.  The scraper I bought appears to be a 2.5" x 4" piece of
spring steel.  I tried using it by dragging it across several pieces
of scrap wood I had laying around (oak, poplar, pine and mohogany).

I was not very successful in doing anything but getting a little bit
of saw (scraper?) dust.

So, now for my (ignorant?) questions:  How does one use a scraper?  Does
it need to be sharpened?  Are there tricks to this?  What angle should
I hold the scraper at?  The scraper I purchased was only $6.50.  Is this
a reasonable price?  Is there something else that is also called a scraper?

Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve Katz

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: iainw@bnr.ca (Iain Woolf)
Subject: Fine cutting (scrolling without a scrolling saw)?
Reply-To: iainw@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 14:52:14 GMT

Does anyone have any ideas on "cutting out" in fine detail - eg. to
cut a handwritten word or signature out of 3/4" thick walnut. The cuts
would have to be very precise as I want to fill the space left with
translucent resin (and then shine a lamp through it). I plan to make
the letters about 1/8" thick and about 1" high. I thought of using a
jig saw to get the rough shape and then a small file to get into the
nooks and crannies, but haven't had a practise at it yet.

(This is for a car dashboard.)

Any ideas/comments gratefully received. Post or e-mail is fine.

Cheers,

          Iain.



-- 

 Iain Woolf,                      | My opinions are just that - MINE!
 BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK   |
 (0628) 794537 ||  esn 590-4537   | iainw@bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: davidb@hpmcaa.mcm.hp.com.mcm.hp.com (David Burton)
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Organization: HP Cardiology Business Unit - McMinnville, OR
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 16:36:42 GMT

G. Paul Houtz (gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com) wrote:
: an625@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Kryl Logan) writes:
: 
: 
: >                           Do you have any personal experience that you
: >can share concerning a defective product that you had to return to
: >Grizzly, or are you just repeating something you heard somewhere else?

	I bought a Grizzly 16" bandsaw and 3hp table saw.  I saw the table 
	saw by getting a referal from Grizzly for someone in my area who
	had bought one.

	The band saw seems OK with the exception of the stand which seems to
	be more like a spring which amplifies vibration.  I'll need to 
	build a new stand eventually.

	The table saw is quite good now that I've spent about 2-3 days
	'tuning' it up.  I re-worked the fence mechanism for more accuraccy,
	which I am now quite happy with.  I beefed up the motor mount by
	adding a bolt which there was a position for but no tapped hole in 
	the casting yet and replacing the pivot shaft with another bolt.

	I had to have Grizzly repair 2 items on the table saw.  The first
	was the arbor elevation lock mechanism which was Al and softer than
	the brass 'bullets' which expand against it to lock handle rotation.
	They replaced it with a cast iron identical part.  The second item
	was the arbor pulley which is pressed on.  Mine was too loose and
	began to knock.  I sent the arbor yolk assembly back and they tapped
	the pulley and put in set screws.

	Both of these repairs where completely paid by Grizzly, even my UPS
	costs.  Advise and the repairs were done courteously and promptly.
	Less than a week from the time I sent the parts off until they were
	back in my hands.  

	The table saw also required better lubrication off all moving joints
	after which the controls are very smooth.

	I you don't want to do this much work to tune a table saw maybe you
	should get a Powermatic for twice the price.  The Grizzly was $900.00
	delivered to Oregon. (They have a good sale every summer).  After my
	work I feel my Grizzly is comparable to the Powermatic a friend of
        mine has.  This same friend bought the Grizzly 2HP dust collector and
	seemed favorably impressed.

	David Burton
: 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Circular saw (Followup to: Simple problem, answer needed)
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 22:06:48 GMT

Thanks to all who answered my recent question about how to make really
clean, perpendicular cuts in small stock.  "Miter box" was the winning
option.  I haven't gotten around to getting one yet.

However, last night my ancient Black & Decker circular saw bit the dust
(I set out to fix a minor electrical problem and found lots of deter-
iorating insulation, not to mention deteriorating bearings, and gave it
a decent burial).  Today I got a new Skil 5350 (2.3 HP, ball bearings on
both ends of the axle).

Great difference!  The new saw does not vibrate at all when cutting.
It moves very smoothly, and that really helps.  With a carbide blade,
I can get splinter-free cuts even in plywood, even without using masking
tape or other protective measures.

Also, this one ejects its sawdust straight down rather than into
my face!

I'm *not* very experienced in using a circular saw, and didn't know
what I was missing.

Comments anyone?
-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 7 Jan 1993 13:27:58 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Central Vacuum for the Workshop?

I wouldn't use a 4" to 2" adaptor at all. No mater where you put it
your just asking for a pluged pipe.

If I had to use a 4 to 2 adaptor I'd put it in an easy place to get to
so I could clean it out when it got cloged.

I've had supprisingly good luck with a shop vac (7 amp) and a 2" hose for
dust extraction in my shop; but, if youv'e got the bucks a real dust
extractor is the way to go.

                        Ron Tye ( all opinions my own)