HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Harry.Johnson@launchpad.unc.edu (Harry Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mopar 360 V-8 question
Date: 21 Dec 92 17:01:31 GMT
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service


I recently bought a very large vehicle equipped with the Chrysler 360 V-8. 
My 1-ton Tradesman van doesn't have much original about it, but the engine
and transmission are strong and (so far) dependable. 

I kind of have the willies about driving the van at highway speeds,
though.  I don't know what a reasonable top running speed for prolonged
(120 miles or more) trips is and don't want to wear out the engine really
fast.  I have rather arbitrarily set a limit for myself of 2700-2800 rpm
for continuous freeway driving.

Do you think that this is a reasonable speed at which to run this engine? 
Am I underestimating the durability of the engine at high speeds (i.e.,
could I run at 3500 rpm without problems)?  Am I really saving any wear
and tear with this sort of limit?  The engine has good oil pressure and I
tuned it up immediately after buying it, and I'm not worried about
overloading the cooling system or knocking/pinging problems. 

On a more general front, what is the best speed at which to run an engine
so that it lasts the longest possible?  50% of redline?  Idle?  By lasting
the longest, I don't mean time-wise but rather number of rotations of
crankshaft before some sort of rod/crank/valvetrain failure.  (If running
my engine at higher speeds causes it to fail after 10^8 rotations rather
than 10^9 at some lower speed, I would rather run it at the lower speed
since I could drive farther, albeit slower, at the lower speed.  However,
if the reverse were true, I'd really be a dope to drive slower while
wearing out my engine faster.)

Harry
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Replacing Ford Tempo Side
Date: 21 Dec 92 23:35:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Subject: Replacing Ford Tempo Side mirror
  >>>Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 17:59:11 GMT


AC>>>I have a '84 Ford Tempo (4 Doors).  The driver side mirror broke.
  >>>It is the type that mounted from inside the door.  Local body shops
  >>>won't touch it.  The Ford Dealer wants $80 for it.  I figure a
  >>>replacement is only $10.  $70 for labor (and the knowledge) seems
  >>>a ripoff to me.  Is it hard to open the door to replace the mirror
  >>>myself?  Can anyone tell me how?  Thanks in advance.

AC>>>[This is the first time I post at rec.auto.tech.  If this is not the
  >>>right group for the question, please send Email about the right group
  >>>to post.  Thanks.]
You posted in the right place!
The xpense is in the part itself! Its not cheap. The labor is only a
half hour. This is the mirror thats mounted like it supports the window,
right?
                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                     
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Moisture
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 15:37:00 EST

In article <Dec21.005807.26476@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> spatton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Samuel Patton) writes:
>I have a 78 Trans Am with a pontiac 400 and Borg Warner T-10 four speed
>installed.
>
>Lately I have noticed that on the drivers side exhaust ( its dual exhaust )
>alot of water vapor comes out of the tailpipe while noe is coming out of
>the exhaust from the other head...
>
>What could be causing this??? Is my head gasket going bad and leaking coolant
>into the combustion chamber?
>
>I have noticed that the operating temp. has been running higher than normal
> and went and bought a thermostat today but didn't yet put it in.
>( normal op. temp. =180F, running at about 210-220F after driving for a while
>  which really concerns me... )
>
>Any and all help will be appreciated...

   Sounds like you hit it right on the head. (no pun!)  I'd do a
compression test on that side, and you'll probably find a low
cylinder.
   At least you can get away from the in-laws for christmas! 8->

>God, I really don't want to replace a head gasket!

   Life sucks, eh?  Might just be a intake gasket.  I'm not a real
pontiac expert, but I've had it happen on a few Olds 350's.
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>|   Sam Patton -=> spatton@lamar.colostate.edu                               |
>|   1978 Pontiac Trans Am - 400 / 4-speed       | Cross Country Tour 1992/93 |
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------

________________________________________________________________________
\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
\                                                                      /
/ The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- \
\______________________________________________________________________/    
    

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Subject: flywheel batteries as
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 22 Dec 92 20:18:59 EST


carl@SOL1.GPS.CALTECH.EDU (Carl J Lydick) writes:

CJ>That's right.  And the flywheel's going to release as much energy as would a
CJ>couple of gallons of gasoline.  But the flywheel's going to release it in the
CJ>space of a second.

I'm not all that technically educated, so please clear something up for
me:

Everyone seems to be saying that the release of energy would be
vitually instantaneous; and this instant release of energy would
result in an explosion.

When a flywheel is spinning, the largest amount of motion is in the
same direction as the casing of flywheel. If the flywheel were to
suddenly turn into "fluff", wouldn't the fluff continue to spin (or
more accurately race around the inside of the housing) for some time
within the housing and gradually lose it's energy (and velocity) to
friction in heating up the housing?

I don't see why any feasible casing for the flywheel wouldn't be
reasonably polished so that there would be a relatively small amount of
friction when contact arises. 

Wouldn't this tend to spread the energy release over a larger period
of time? If so, wouldn't this reduce the possibility of an explosion
and perhaps result in the unit gradually (relatively speaking!)
melting down without an explosion?

Am I missing something obvious?

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.25 #350  I'm SO confused...
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: markm@triton.unm.edu ()
Subject: Re: Bent engine mounts in a jeep Wrangler???
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 92 01:08:10 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Summary:  Bent?  My ass!  Betcha their broken!
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Dec23.203626.28497@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
>My friend jumped his new Jeep (Wrangler) for a few feet. later he 
>noticed that the shifter was moved to the right.  Nothing feels out of 
>alignment, but the suspects that the engine mounts were bent on impact.  
>Actually, the engine fan was hitting the plastc shroud around the 
>radiator right after his jump.  We thought the differential hit the 
>plastic from below, butnow he thinks it is related to the problem with 
>the shifter.  Any experiences on how violent jumps can affect Jeep 
>Wranglers (1.8l 4cyl engine and 31" tires on stock suspension).
>
>I hope he is wrong, oterwise I'll never buy a Jeep.
>
>Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
>Microcomputer Information Center      | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
>Madison Academic Computing Center     | 608-263-7744
>1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 | 

....Ok, OK - which one of you smart guys thought this stunt possible
without a little breakage?

Pete, stock motor mounts are simply hard rubber that is more or less
glued onto metal fittings that mate at the block and chassis.  "Jumping"
**any** vehicle with stock mounts is extremely risky - the mounts are
designed to hold the motor in place while you accelerate, and absorb the
vibration of the engine.  Dropping a vehicle off of a jack is enough
to simply shear the mount instantly.

Incidently, the transmission mount is usually constructed in the same 
fashion.  ***Danger Will Robinson, Danger! *** when you break the motor
mounts and/or the transmission mounts, lots of nifty things like trashing
the clutch, transmission and the 4wdr transfer case are all possible, and
will likely occur in short order if you lug the thing.

For anyone who wants to play "The Dukes Of Hazard" in their vehicle, realize
that those stunt guys trashed practically every vehicle you saw careening
through the air.  You can beef up your suspension and frame, install
solid steel motor mounts and transmission mounts, and do all that wonderful
stuff, but you will still incur damage each and every time you "jump".  

Hint:  if you wanna fly, rent a plane.  Leave your wheels hugging mother
earth.  Its a lot cheaper!

Mark F. Mitcham
MARKM@TRITON.UNM.EDU

	"OK, so who's the U-Boat Commander?"
	   - Risky Business...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Carr-C10973@email.comm.mot.com (Eric Carr)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Moisture
Organization: Motorola LMPS Engineering
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 13:15:42 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech

In article <Dec21.005807.26476@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU>,
spatton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Samuel Patton) wrote:
> 
> I have a 78 Trans Am with a pontiac 400 and Borg Warner T-10 four speed
> installed.
> 
> Lately I have noticed that on the drivers side exhaust ( its dual exhaust )
> alot of water vapor comes out of the tailpipe while noe is coming out of
> the exhaust from the other head...
> 
> What could be causing this??? Is my head gasket going bad and leaking coolant
> into the combustion chamber?
> 
> I have noticed that the operating temp. has been running higher than normal
> and went and bought a thermostat today but didn't yet put it in.
> ( normal op. temp. =180F, running at about 210-220F after driving for a while
>   which really concerns me... )
> 
> Any and all help will be appreciated...
> 
> My plans for tomorrow are to install the new thermostat and then make sure
> that the coolant is full to the proper amount.  If it then starts to do this
> fade toward a higher temp. as I drive it for a while... What does that indicate?
> 
> God, I really don't want to replace a head gasket!
> 
> Sam


I would tend to agree more with what Jonathan Skean wrote.  Heat riser
valves are known to rust into a certain setting (open or closed) and have
to be removed and cleaned.  His suggestion shows how to do it.

As for a blown head gasket, yeah - you'll get some moisture in the exhaust
from it but usually the engine runs noticably worse if this is the
condition.  It's normal for moisture to be in exhaust, especially when the
engine and exhaust aren't up to running temperature yet (mufflers mainly
fail from rusting inside out).  A compression check should give you an idea
if you're up to specs, and a vacuum gauge will help determine if there are
any other problems.
                             

                         _________                                       
               ________ /  '67   /_________
              /    Caprice Sport Coupe    /         
             /      396cid     365hp     / See the USA in an old Chevrolet 
                                                                           
                    
            /________   USA-1  _________/         
                    /_________/
                                      
                                             
                                              
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: STUCK CARB, AIRBORNE! Wheel Came Off...
Keywords: My Brother Told Me To Post This
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 21:18:54 GMT

In <1992Dec21.225136.9133@cbfsb.cb.att.com> zm@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (Zafer Mehmood) writes:

>In article <1g04jtINN3k2@roche.csl.sri.com> lbrown@cisco.com (Lawrence Brown) writes:
>>
>>I was late for work, barreling down a country road at around 60mph.
>>About a 1/4 mile from the highway the road goes over a steep blind hill.
>>
>>I'm driving a '69 Chevy Impala, 350engine with 4-barrel carb, Auto, Power
>>Steering...  
>	[stuff deleted]
>> I floor the pedal. The 4-barrel carb opens wide and the engine roars. I start 
>>to let off the gas about halfway up the hill and discover the throttle
>>is stuck wide open.
>>
>>Now, in hindsight the smart thing would have been to just turn off the engine.
>>(Ever try to steer a Chevy with the power steering turned off? Right.)

But unless you shift to neutral, the engine would still be turning over
and so would the power steering pump. BTW, yes I have and its sort of
like leading an elephant around.

>>
>> [story about using brakes to stop car and breaking axle deleted]
>>
>	Whenever I read stories about runaway cars with stuck throttle 
>plate/cable or cruise mechanisms, I wonder why the transmission cannot 
>be shifted into neutral to disengage the engine from the drive-train.
>Yes, the engine can over-rev causing damage but that's a cheap price
>to pay compared to the risk of collision and bodily injury. In a couple
>of automatics that I've tried, I was able to shift into neutral even while
>accelerating. Manual transmissions, on the other hand won't shift into
>neutral while accelerating (at least not easily), but then you can use
>the clutch to disengage the engine from the transmission.

You can do a lot of unique things if you think of it in time. A friend
came over the top of a local hill one day only to see a train going
over the crossing below. Hit the brakes and they failed, so he threw
the auto tranny into reverse and hit the gas. Stopped the car, saved
his life, blew the tranny. He thought it was a good deal.

>Aside from the driver panicking and not having the presence of mind,
>is there a reason why this can not be done? Am I missing something?

>Zafer

Bob.
From: jskean@unlinfo.unl.edu (jonathan skean)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Before Buying Japanese.
Date: 31 Dec 1992 09:57:19 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: all
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo.unl.edu

esprit@netcom.com (Alan F. Perry) writes:

>And before you buy an American car, watch the movie "Tucker".  Or, look at 
>the Big Three's reaction to the oil embargo in the 70s.

You thought "Tucker" was a documentary?  The Japanese determination
to dominate by means of economic war is too serious to take lightly.
The difficulty of distiguishing entertainment from reality is a problem 
for me, too, but I'm working on it.
--
Jonathan Skean                     usenet: JSKEAN@UNL.EDU
502 Hamilton Hall                  bitnet: JSKEAN%UNL.EDU@UNLVAX1
University of Nebraska              voice: (402)472-2684
Lincoln, NE 68588-0304   USA          fax: (402)472-9402
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help with engine diag
Date: 21 Dec 92 23:35:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:09:06 GMT


J(>>>I had a '87 2.2 turbo also but the only thing I ever needed to do to that
  >>>was give it a complete tune-up (cap, wires, plugs, rotor, filters etc...)
  >>>at 50,000 miles.  At 60,000 miles the turbo started to make a faint noise
  >>>and I off loaded the car at 70,000 miles.  I often wondered what would hap
  >>>when turbo bearings go out.  Perhaps the midrange response would be the
  >>>first to go.

J(>>>Any net advice on a turbo going out?

if your lucky the bearing will sieze and the turbo will just quit
turning, and you just loose the boost. If your real lucky you blow a
seal and start seeing smoke and using oil all a sudden and then you take
it in to the garage for that problem(then they tell the turbos gone).
Worse case scenario is when the the turbo losses oil on the hwy and
wears the bearing out causing the vanes to wobble, hit the case,
disentagrate, and all that metal goes INTO THE ENGINE, then you blow the
engine!
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                       
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: esprit@netcom.com (Alan F. Perry)
Subject: Re: Before Buying Japanese.
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 04:16:12 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.175438.18370@ll.mit.edu> psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders) writes:
>
>Before buying a new Japanese car please read:
>
>	JAPANYES, (2nd edition)
> 
>monu6.cc.monash.edu.au. The most recent version is in pub/nihongo.
>
>	(ftp site)

And before you buy an American car, watch the movie "Tucker".  Or, look at 
the Big Three's reaction to the oil embargo in the 70s.



-- 
-----------------------------------+----------------------------------------
Alan F. Perry                      | "e-mail is wrecking my life"
esprit@netcom.com        (home)    |            - some random person 
allan@hakkinen.lynx.com  (work)    |              standing in San Francisco
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lungtt@gus.ecn.purdue.edu (Terence T. Lung)
Subject: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 01:59:26 GMT

A recent San Jose Mercury News article mentioned the complaints
of motorists about an especially oxygenated gasoline that's
being pumped everywhere in California.  Their MPGs have gone down
anywhere from 5 to 25 [!]%.  Taxi companies are complaining.  

The idea was supposed to lower pollution.  It sounds to me like
a ploy that results in 5 to 25% more gasoline burned per mile.

Where else is this happening?  The paper vaguely mentions 35
other places across the country but does not say where.
What times of the year is this stuff being introduced?
just winter time?

I wonder if I got suckered by this stuff this last time that
I strangely ran out of gas [not fun] around 410 instead of my usual
500+ miles between refuelings.[in a happy '88 Ford Escort]

out in Indiana,
Terence
From: hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi (Henri R Helanto)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: All-Wheel Drive/4x4 Questions.
Date: 27 Dec 92 04:41:06 GMT
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland

In <3984.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:

> They *are* wonderful.  Ask anyone with a Jensen FF!
>
> "I'd like a small late-1960s British sedan with the engine compartment
>crammed full of 440-4BBL Chrysler wedge, please.  Add the Torqueflite,
>air conditioning, Dunlop Maxaret antiskid, and Ferguson full time four
>wheel drive.  Uh... yeah, I'll take the leather interior too.  Can you
>have it delivered?"

> Like the Maserati Biturbo or Yenko Nova, the Jensen FF is one of those
>cars that simply look so *ordinary*...


	HOLD IT!! You mean there's a 440cid Mopar-powered AWD 
	British car with a pile of luxury options? WOW!

	...Now, if you have any information about production
	numbers, books about that car (hmm, was Jensen Interceptor
	a coupe?) or _anything_ , please let me know.

	Just got interested... ;-)

-Henri
-- 
Henri Helanto - SysOp
hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi m40176m@puukko.hut.fi
Call MyBBS (+358-0-485067/485068/485968/485918/488139, 24h) !
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: TX_WAYNE@rrivax.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Johnson)
Subject: Re: Cummins
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20
Organization: Robarts Research Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 15:59:30 GMT

In <3983.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us writes:

> 
> -> 1.  Lack of innovation.  20 years later, nothing has changed.
> ...
> -> their downside.  And while the Chrysler small block V8 may suffer
> -> from legitimate innovation complaints, this would seem to have little
> 
>  What's to innovate?  Chrysler got it right the first time.  They
> changed to roller lifters about the same time Ford and Chevy did, but
> they already had a good rod ratio (Ford missed by a mile), appropriately
> sized bearings (took Chevy two tries for that), Chrysler was first to
> put electronic ignition as standard, etc.  According to (ahem) Consumer
> Reports, the 318 has fewer in-warranty service problems than the 302
> Ford or small Chevy.  The 3.9 V6 variant ain't bad, either.
> 

I think the biggest reason for the popular complaint that the Chrysler V8
is lacking in innovation was the absence of multi-port fuel injection, the
most "visible" modern engine feature you see when you pop the hood.

Chrysler finally addressed this last year with a redesign of the 318 and
360 which included multi-port injection and new heads and exhaust manifolds
(+ serpentine accessory belt and numerous other changes).  The changes put
the 318 up to 230hp and 280lbs/ft of torque. The 360 (which I'm not sure is
available yet) is up to 325 lbs/ft of torque.  So I see no cause for anyone
to blame Chrysler for lack of innovation on these engines today, either.

Sadly, the only problem with these motors is that the only new Mopars that
use them are trucks and (I think) Jeeps.  Aaannd the MP-EFI system won't
bolt directly onto your earlier 318/340/360 which rules it out for hot-rod
applications.  

Wayne Johnson

< Wayne Johnson                         The John P. Robarts Research Institute >
< Database Programmer                   Clinical Trials Resources Group        >
< "w.johnson@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca"           London, Ontario, Canada                >
<        Disclaimer: "Nope.  Wasn't Me.  I never said any such thing."         >
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike@fuego.viewlogic.com (Mike Ethier)
Subject: How to clean aluminum engine (Quad 4) ? 
Originator: mike@fuego
Organization: Viewlogic Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 14:55:15 GMT



I want to clean the engine in my Grand Am, but it has a Quad 4 in
it and many parts are aluminum. I tried water, but that was a 
mistake. A powdery substance developed all over the engine. Can
someone suggest proven method(s)/product(s) to stop this powdery
build up and get the engine squeaky clean ?  -Thanks
From: kenter@head-cfa.harvard.edu (Almus Kenter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Hypoid/nonHypoid gear lubes...
Date: 28 Dec 92 16:48:26 GMT
Organization: Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory, Cambridge, MA,  USA



It is time to change my transmission oil in my 1973 BMW 2002.
The manual specifies explicitly that only Non-hypoid gear lube should
be used in the transmission. I have been to a couple of car parts
stores none of which had non-hypoid gear lube.

I have not yet tried the dealer yet....

As far as I understand hypoid gear lube does not thin out as much as non-hypoid
oil.  I am also interested in using a synthetic oil as well.. Does anyone 
have a recommendation for a product or source for non-Hypoid gear lube
(preferably synthetic) ??
  

	Thanks in advance
					----Almus
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech