HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mt10265@medtronic.COM (Mike Tollinger)
Subject: Craftsman / Ryobi Random Orbital Sander
Reply-To: mt10265@medtronic.COM
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:37:26 GMT

Last week, Craftsman started offering the new 4.5" Ryobi orbital sander
under the Craftsman name.  But, there is one difference. (besides the color, 
which is the Craftsman black) The Craftsman sander doesn't use Velcro disks, 
it needs the standard sticky disks.  Now here's the problem.  
The folks at Sears insist on telling you that you can use the Ryobi disks.  
That is, until you show them the Velcro.  Then, they don't know where to 
get the disks or even when they might start stocking them. I'm not trying 
to bash Sears, because I really liked the sander.  That is, until I ran 
out of sand paper. (They include 3 disks with the sander)

Does anyone out there know where I might find 4.5" - 8 hole, sticky disks.

Regards,
   Mike Tollinger
   m.tollinger@medtronic.com
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planing thin strips
Date: 14 Aug 92 12:10:49 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Labs

In article 11910@microsoft.com, stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
|>Every so often, I've read about methods for planing thin strips of
|>wood (like from 1/4 inch to 1/16" in thickness).  But I've never
|>had to do it myself, until now.  I'd like to hear suggestions from
|>everyone who's successfully done this as to what's the best method.
|>Unless I hear otherwise, I think attaching the strips to a wooden
|>sled and running the whole thing through the planer is the way to
|>go, but what do you use to attach the strips to the sled?  It's
|>got to be flat, strong, and easily disconnected.

Two-sided tape - specifically, the kind that is made for holding
down rugs. I find that the cloth based varieties clean up better
than the paper based ones.

This stuff is useful in all kinds of shop applications where you want
to temporarily attach a work piece to a fixture.




---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: games@max.u.washington.edu
Subject: Re: An UnGrizzly Tale, and too tall stuff
Organization: 
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:49:21 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.234310.23644@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
> In article <1992Aug12.134917.1@max.u.washington.edu> games@max.u.washington.edu writes:
> 
>>I notice that there is only a 10" discrepancy between the unit, and the 
>>ceiling.  Will it not fit between the joists? (Typically 12" tall, and 16"
>>on center?) 
> 
> Before anyone knocks holes in ceilings checking on this, I worked in
> construction trades for nearly 15 years and I've never seen a house with
> 1x12 joists. I have seen several go up with 1x10s for the ground floor,
> but 1x8s are much more commonly used. Both my house and my brother's
> house here in NJ have 1x8 joists for the ground floor, and (in mine)
> the second floor. Other houses I've worked on were in the Southeast U.S.
> 
> Perhaps things are different out west?
> 
Obviously, depends upon when the house was built, who designed it, what was
available, what kind of span th eroom has, etc...  My garage was done with
2x10 (really 1.5x9), and the rest of the basement is 2x12 (really 1.5x11).

If you have a stairway to the basement, with a few measurements, you ought
to be able to figure out what was used.

Like I said though, even if this gives you enough room, you are limited 
as to orientation of the tool (I.E.  ALONG the line of the joists).

And tipping a big heavy beast into place might be fun to watch.  (LOTS
and LOTS of pie eating heavy grunt type movers)

			John.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 19:28:56 GMT


In article <17103@ulysses.att.com>, smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:
|> In article <wood.714160523@geode1>, wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood) writes:
|> >  So, what are you supposed to do where you're wiring with Romex, and come to a
|> > spot where the wiring will be exposed?  I think it's against code to switch to
|> > rigid conduit and pull the romex through.  Are you supposed to put in a box
|> > and switch to individual wires?  Sounds like a pain...
|> 
|> The NEC specifically permits lengths of conduit to be used to
|> protect or support Romex.  See 300-15(b), Exception No. 1.  (Note
|> that a fitting to protect the cable against abrasion is required.)
|> Indeed, to pass Romex through a floor, conduit is required.
|> 
|> I thought I'd once seen something limiting the length of such conduits
|> unless the circuit is derated.  But I couldn't find anything in a
|> quick search tonight.
|> 
|> 
|> 		--Steve Bellovin

Yes, they make a fitting that looks like a thin wall straight coupling but
has a romex compression clamp on the other end. Does that make sense?

          pipe - set screw + romex fitting - romex

Piece of cake. Nifty when protecting outdoor wiring between house and ground.
I have to look into the derating for my garage application and also check
to see if I can get the above transition fitting with a tandom romex clamp for
3/4" thin wall. I will be running 12/3 to the outlets (to have 220 available)
and will also need a return. That makes six conductors and two grounds. 
certainly can't get that into one 1/2" thin wall pipe, but will 3/4 be enough?
I'll have to check the pipe tables. I think one 3/4" will be easier than running
two 1/2" pipes, but if a tandom 3/4" romex/thin wall conversion fitting
is not avalable then two 1/2" pipes will have to be used. Any comment Steve?

Many of the 
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
From: billq@fnal.gov (William R. Quayle)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: repairing a caned chair
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:32:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: linac.3TLO=L_5A
Reply-To: billq@pogo.fnal.gov
Organization: Independant Consultant

In article <01GNOR7V29R88Y4X94@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>, DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM (Don Roberts) writes:
|> >Can anyone offer advice on what might be done to fix up an old caned chair?
|> ...etc

|> I'm faced with a similar problem.  I have some caned seats that have holes in
|> them, but I haven't been able to come up with a way to get the old cane out.
|> It seems to be glued in and so far I've not been able to find a solvent that
|> works, or a  method for getting the beading out.  Any suggestions?  Trend-lines
|> sells caning of the right type for a reasonable price, if I can just get the
|> old out.
|> 

While I haven't done it myself, dad used a chisle of the appropriate width, and
*very* carefully walked the old spline out.  I've got a little pamphlet on
recaning chairs, and they suggest the same method.  I haven't got the pamphlet
with me right now, but will find it tonight, and check with the group tomorrow.

-billq
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Power tool prices increasing?
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:23:26 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.
Originator: davek@puma

Leafing through the latest issue of U.S. News and World Report, I found
an article on import duties.  Above a photo of a Makita router is the
text:

POWER TOOLS
Black & Decker and other American tool makers
have asked the government to impose dumping
fees on certain categories of Japanese hand
power tools destined for America.
Import duty: Pending

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J Meltsner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Unfinished Chair Frames (was Chair Designs)
Date: 13 Aug 92 20:23:26 GMT
Reply-To: meltsner@crd.ge.com
Organization: GE Research and Development Center


In article <114644@muvms3.bitnet>, rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM) writes:
|>From: rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM)
|>Subject: Re: Unfinished Chair Frames (was Chair Designs)
|>Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 13:20:03 GMT+5:00
|>Organization: Marshall University
|>
|>In article <1992Aug11.170722.18981@cs.cmu.edu>, neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus) writes:
|>> Along these lines....
|>> 
|>> I'm making dining room tables (large ones), in
|>> the mission style in red oak.   I'm not yet set
|>> up for chair production in my shop and would like
|>> to offer customers chairs in the same style.  
|>>  I'm **not** looking for Queen Anne, Chippendale,
|>> etc.  It must be a straight-line simple design,
|>> ala Mission, Shaker, possibly HeppleWhite....
|>
|>Sounds like you need to check out Stickley. Gustav Stickley.
|>He was a furniture designer back in the early portion of this
|>century who, like the Shakers, et al--only moreso--led a sort
|>of revolt against the ornate styles that had been prevalent up
|>to that time. The most expository statement I can make about
|>Stickly is that he made no attempt to disguise the fact that 
|>his furniture creations were constructed from plane flat boards.
|> 
|>You should be able to find the big book about him and his work
|>at the public library, or at a bookstore that has a good assortment
|>of woodworking selections. The book has many detailed measured
|>drawings. Stickley worked in quartersawn oak. The book is called
|>THE FURNITURE OF GUSTAV STICKLEY (i think :-).

Stickley's heirs/creditors (he went out of business at one point) are
still in business and make Mission Oak (and now cherry) furniture that
claims to be the same as the original.  In a couple of cases, the
catalog details joints that were upgraded, but you can't call the
pieces reproductions since they never stopped making them.  Since you
were asking for sources of built chairs, you should realize the
Stickley chairs cost about $500 and up at retail.

Hope Farm, a local furniture discounter, has some nice Vermont-made
Shaker and Mission-style furniture, including chairs.  I don't know
who they buy from; a long distance call to (518) 877-8330 and you
could ask.  I have no idea whether the manufacturer would cut a deal
to sell you unfinished frames.

Shaker and Mission pieces are incredibly popular right now, according
to various furniture salesmen -- they're well on their way to becoming
as over-popular as Danish Modern.

===============================================================================
Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391
GE Research and Development Center  | Fax:  (518) 387-7495
P.O. Box 8, Room K1/MB207	    | Nothing I say should be attributed
Schenectady, NY 12301               | to my employer, and probably vice-versa
================ Materials and Manufacturing, World O' Stuff ==================
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Re: Exposed wiring and the NEC.
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:55:23 GMT

   So, what are you supposed to do where you're wiring with Romex, and come to a
spot where the wiring will be exposed?  I think it's against code to switch to
rigid conduit and pull the romex through.  Are you supposed to put in a box and
switch to individual wires?  Sounds like a pain...

-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 I said it, not Moto:      	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 They think I'm working!	*
*********************************************************************************
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:21:53 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Cabinet scraper advice?
              17 Aug 1992 17:31:30 GMT from <john@SSD.KODAK.COM>

On Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:31:30 GMT John Hall said:
>Last weekend I bought a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper at a flea market.
>
  I have an old Record equivalent ....

>1. The blade has no burr on it.  Should it?  Is it done the same way as
>on a hand scraper: file, stone, (consolidate?), burnish?
>
>2. The long edges of the blade are not square to the faces as on a hand
>scraper, but have been ground to about a 30 degree angle from the face.
>Is this correct?
>
  Yes, may specs. said 45 but I guess either will do however you should
turn a burr on this edge.
>3. One of the long edges of the blade appears to have once been grooved
>or serrated in some way.  Why?
  This is to put a "toothed" surface in wood faces before glueing, there
was a certain amount of disscussion on this list a few weeks ago about
this practice.
>
>4. There are two thumbscrews that secure the blade and a third one that
>bows it.  This acts as a depth-of-cut control, right?
   Your are right, back the third one out, push across work, give screw
about 1/4 turn, repeat till you get desired cut.
>
>5. Any tips on style? Is it better to pull or push?  How does one make
>this tool do its best work?
   I normally push because it seems to be less subject to "chatter" on
uneven grain but pulling works also.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Polymerized Tung Oil
Keywords: tung oil, finishing, welles
Date: 21 Aug 92 05:35:34 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Aug20.165652.2693@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>I recently read about Sutherland Welles' polymerized tung oil in an old copy of
>Woodsmith (1984).  I called the toll-free number, and it looks like they are still
>there, although all I got was an answering machine.  From reading the article, it
>sounds like a really interesting finish.  Does anyone have any more information
>about this, or has anyone ever used it.

Also known as "Tung Oil Varnish".  There are many manufacturers.  In fact,
unless specifically described as "pure tung", any tung oil finish is
probably "polymerized tung".

It is somewhat more glossy than pure tung, and dries pretty quickly.
Ie: you can recoat in a few hours instead of a day or two with pure
tung.  There are additives on the market to adjust the gloss.

It is more compatible with other finishes (eg: topcoats of polyurethane)
than pure tung.

It is harder than pure tung, but softer than polyurethane.

Lee Valley carries both pure and polymerized, along with a selection
of additives.  Garret Wade probably does too.

I use both.  I tend to use the pure tung where I'm trying really hard
for the best looking finish I can get and am willing to spend more
time on it, or I want a non-toxic finish.

Polyermized tung is for items that get a little more rough usage, and
toxicity isn't a concern.

It's probably best to think of polymerized tung as a mixture of tung
oil and polyurethane.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: A fire safety reminder
Summary: don't forget the oily rags...
Keywords: rags, oily, fire safety
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:50:06 GMT
Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

I assume most of us know the danger of oily rags but I was just
reminded how easy it is to forget: I was darned lucky my house didn't
burn up last night. Since I know that I know better and I don't think
that I am THAT much more forgetful than others I thought I would post
a reminder...

My daughter and I were using Watco oils on some miniature parquet
flooring pieces for a doll house. We had been blotting the many
hundred pieces with paper towels. I put all of those into a big bucket
and meant to cover them with water, but it got late and ...

This morning I went to the shop to see how the pieces were looking,
and as soon as I opened the door I was assaulted by acrid fumes
burning my eyes and nose. The used towels were hot, charred, and
beginning to emit significant amounts of smoke, but had not yet
triggered the smoke alarm. If I hadn't gone to the shop but had just
left the house empty... As it was I first dumped the towels onto the
concrete floor to let them cool off and then put them back in the
bucket and took them to where I could fill the bucket with water.

Remember the problem with oily rags is not just that they are
flammable and could be easily ignited, but that they can ignite them
selves in what is called spontaneous combustion! How that process goes
has been discussed at length here before and I won't use more
bandwidth discussing it, but please do remember to treat those rags
properly!

Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mikel@yesac.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Mike.Leonard)
Subject: Help with molding ideas
Originator: mikel@yesac.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Organization: NCR Corp
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 13:37:48 GMT

My wife and I are restoring a home that was built in the early 1920's
and want to have more than the standard crown molding in the living room
and chair rail in the dining room. We were hoping to build more elaborate
chair and crown moldings from multiple standard moldings.

We went to the local library last night expecting to find a book with 
built-up molding ideas, but found nothing. Can anyone help? 

thanks mike
mike.leonard@ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
-- 
 * Michael Leonard                 *    mike.leonard@ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM *
 * Systems Architecture            *    ..!ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM!m.leonard *
 * NCR Corporation Columbia, SC    *         (803) 791-6602             * 
 ************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover)
Subject: Re: Reproduction of letters (was: Grizzly etc.)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 12:25:58 GMT
Distribution: usa, na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Aug17.051841.10961@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>, tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
|> 
|> Funny, our University aheld a day long seminar on Patents, Copyrights,
|> and Inventions, in which they assured us that anything we send out
|> WITHOUT "(C) Copyring Date Whom" is in the public domain and fair
|> game.

That was the old copyright law.  Current US copyright law allows
the copyright notice to be placed on the text up to five years
after the initial distribution.

Anyway, this is pretty far from woodworking.  How about if we
drop it (after me, of course :-)).

roger
From: davei@comp.lancs.ac.uk (Mr D Ingles)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Emperor Clock Kits - any experiences?
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:15:13 GMT
Organization: Department of Computing at Lancaster University, UK.

In article <1992Aug18.122306.10795@walter.cray.com> jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais) writes:
>I'm getting serious about purchasing a grandfather clock kit from the 
>Emperor Clock Company catalog.  Does anyone out there have any 
>experience with these kits (or other clock kits from other makers)?

I am interested in such kits etc as well. Does anyone know of any good 
catalogues for this type of hobby ?

Davei
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 13 Aug 1992 16:20:42 GMT
From:         PGIFFORD@ALLEGVM.BITNET
Subject:      Re: HELP! Can't find replacement belt for sander

>In article <1992Aug13.151854.18815@stortek.com>, bernie_marasco@stortek.com
>(bernie marasco) writes:
>> I inherited a "Power House" hand belt sander Model #72110 from my father.
>> It must be atleast 25 years old and I can't seem to find any replacement
>> belts for it (4" X 21 3/4").  Does anyone out in net land know of where
>> I might find a replacement belt?
>>
>Try a place called suprisingly enough  "THE SANDING CATALOG"
>	1-800-822-0000
>
>They have a wide vareity of good quality belts, and will custom make
>belts as well.
>
>The other thing to try is with the local yellow pages looking up
>abrasives.  You will find places that will custom make belts, but be prepared
>to buy in quantity of about 25 belts per grit that you want per order.
>
>(I have bought from the sanding catalog, and have been generally happy with
>the service.  Not thrilled, just happy)
>
>			John.
>
Ditto for Industrial Abrasives in Reading, PA.  Nice place to drop in when
your wife wants to cruise the outlet stores.  Also have an 800 number, good
selection good service.  No connections other than both being from Reading.

Pete Gifford
pgifford@allegvm.bitnet
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: drill press
Date: 14 Aug 92 19:59:49 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Distribution: usa, na
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <1992Aug10.184156.26781@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>
>I'm interested in hearing what people have to say about the Delta "radial arm"
>drill press.
>

An easier solution is to get a drill press that you can turn the head on.
Mine has two bolts at that loosen and then the top part of the drill press
will rotate on the shaft.

I have seen bench model drill presses done this way to work on tall stuff.
Be sure to attach the bottom to the bench, and make sure that your bench
is heavy enough not to tip over.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Sawblade Stabilizers
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 23:09:32 GMT

Richard Martin writes
> I too am interested in learning if sawblade stabilizers can be used on an 
> older 10" craftsman tablesaw.  Can the inner piece that seems to be pressed 
> onto the arbor be removed.  If not, then using the stabilizers move the blade
> over too much and interferes with the table insert.

Here's a couple of solutions:
1) Use a homemade table insert. By custom making an insert you can often reduce  
chip out of the cut. It's easy to do - thickness plane a piece of wood to the  
proper thickness, trace the outline using the original insert as a guide, then  
cut it out with a jig/band/coping saw. Lower the blade all the way, attach the  
insert (fasten it down!), turn on the saw and raise the blade slowly. 

2) Get the Forrest stabilizer instead of the Freud or DML jobs. The Forrest  
stabilizer is a single plate that goes on the outside of the blade, so it  
doesn't move the blade over.

Note that I haven't used any of the stabilizers, so can't speak for how well  
they work, especially in comparison to each other.

Also note that even if you can remove the inner flange, replacing it with a  
stabilizer may not be a good thing to do.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com