HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: forbesm@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (Mark Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mercedes Vapor Lock (Not So Mysterious)
Date: 22 Jul 92 17:11:52 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Outreach Services - Oregon State University

The Mercedes vapor lock problem is solved! And the winner is.......





The Electric Fuel Pump!     (muted applause)



After much fiddling, I installed a $25 electric fuel pump, capped off
both sides of the mechanical pump and disconnected the fuel return 
line. Result is no more stalling, consistent high-temperature operation, and
slightly better gas mileage. (??) The last could just be a fluke.

I realize that the 'proper' solution was to stay with OE carbs; but they're
*expensive* to replace, and the old ones were far beyond worn out. The
Webers get me better performance than the originals at a half the price.

Thanks to all who provided opinions and experience.

Mark G. Forbes | forbesm@atlantis.cs.orst.edu
Corvallis, OR  | 503 757 8416 work phone    | Hardware R & D
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: CAGS on corvette LT1
Summary: they hated it too
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 22:20:39 GMT

In article <1992Jul30.212708.17328@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>my friend just bought a corvette LT1.
>he hates the CAGS and wonders if there's a way to disconnect it.

Well, whatever he does, he'd BETTER NOT disconnect the red wire going from
the transmission to the tranny wiring harness. Car and Driver (R&T? MT?)
said not to do this a long time ago. I forget which issue.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
Not one of the "PC" weenies.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562)
Subject: How to use blue silicone RTV
Organization: ARCO Oil and Gas Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 18:13:37 GMT

I have a water pump in my car which just started leaking.  I fugured that the
gasket was worn out, and, upon opening it up, discovered that it was.  It had
completely hardned and was brittle enough so it did not seal.  I was advised
to build a new gasket out of blue RTV.  The instructions on the blister pack
were clear and explicit.  I laid down a 1/8" bead and screwed the bolts back in.
The instructions said do not torque the housing down far enough so that the
RTV is squeezed out.  It also said that retorquing is unnecessary.  I followed
these instructions and it appears to leak still.  This is unfortunate, as it
took me hours to get to the pump and it is all together now.  I checked some
of the easily accessible bolts, and discovered that they were loose.  Why, then
did the instructions say that retorque was unnecessary?  It appears that I 
should have given the bolts another twist after the sealant was dry.  Am I
misinterpreting the instructions, or what?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schere@vccsouth26.its.rpi.edu (Edward David Schernau)
Subject: Radio Interference and spark plug wires
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 13:58:08 GMT

One of the things that people seem to have missed re: this subject
is the radio interfernece.  I'm not ttoo worried about voltage
drops or anything.  I'm looking for something that will fill the X-band
with radio interference for about 1/2 mile around my car.  Also
the K band, maybe even Ka.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Ed                            Ash nazg durbatuluk, ash nazg gimbatul,
schere@rpi.edu                Ash nazg thrakatuluk, ag burzum-ishi krimpatul!
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DIY compression meter
Date: 29 Jul 92 15:39:31 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering


:Say,
:for instance, you have a 2 litre, 4 cyl. engine, with a 10:1 compression
:ratio.  Each cyl. has 500cc displacement at BDC, and 50cc volume at
:TDC.  if you add, say, 10cc worth of tubing capacity, you have an error
:of 20%.  (No flames if I got the math wrong, it's 05:16 and I haven't slept
:in 30 hours).


well, if the tdc volume is 50cc and the cylinder displacement is 500cc
then the bdc volume is 550cc so the compression is 550:50, or 11:1
[56cc's at the top gives you 10:1]

if you add 10cc the the apparent compression is 560:60 or 9.3:1,
however if that 10cc is in the form of the long tube and your measurement
is made by quickly cranking the engine there will be a dynamic effect
and your measuremant will be even lower..


--
-george            george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
From: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: checking spark
Date: 21 Jul 1992 21:56:17 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: repare.ebay.sun.com

What is the best way (safest as well) to check for spark if one does
not have a timing light?  I just want to verify I have spark coming
from my distributor.  

Thanks
From: speednut@csource.oz.au (mark jose)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 92 15:49:17 +1000
Reply-To: speednut@csource.oz.au
Organization: Unique Computing Pty Ltd, Melbourne, Australia

Original Message Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
From: mack@isl.Stanford.EDU (mack)
 
 
> nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall) writes:
> >eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
> >>mack@isl.Stanford.EDU (mack) writes:
> >>
> >>>I need some net.advice for replacing the timing belt on my Nissan
> >>>Sentra 85. The original belt worked for 102K miles before it gave in,
> >>>and the car died on me last Friday. I had it towed home (God bless
> >
> >   [ ... stuff deleted to save bandwidth ... ]
> >
> >>Buy a new engine. If your timing belt came off while the engine was revving,
> >>it is gone. Broken and bent valves, cracked pistons and a damaged head. :-(
> >
> >  Well, don't buy a new engine before getting the old one checked
> >  out :-)  You may have lucked out.  But Eur is more than likely
> >  correct - a busted timing belt while driving at 60 MPH or so is
> >  more than likely gonna cause a lot of internal damage.
>
 
I drive a '80 Cortina TE (American's may not know this car - the Brits
certainly would), and had the drive belt give way while doing 4000 RPM
on the way to work. Apart from the instantaneous spinning of the motor I
had no problems. I can't understand how such a problem would occur
because the instant the belt snaps the valves stay where they are and
the pistons can't reach up that far to smack them. It could only be if
the high revs after the belt has broken cause a valve stem to shear.
 
If there wasn't some sort of clearance, what would happen when the timing
was out????????
 
> Actually the engine died on me when I was about to accelerate from a
> stop sign. My spped never got to 5 mph. I don't know if that changes
> anything!?  :-)
 
Probably not but boy is not it a pain when it happens??
 
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Proud owner of a 1972 Ford XA Fairmont - 167 MPH of rev-limited thrills!!
The World's Fastest Four Door Production Sedan!   ** Carn the Hawks **
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

.........................................................
mark jose
speednut@csource.oz.au  Unique Computing Pty Ltd, Melbourne, Australia
The opinions expressed above are that of the author only.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 15:06:00 +0000


> I drive a '80 Cortina TE (American's may not know this car - the Brits
> certainly would), and had the drive belt give way while doing 4000 RPM
> on the way to work.

Ha !  Show me a Brit who *doesn't* know what a Cortina is 8-)

First time I ever drove at over 100, I took the crankshaft centre
bearing out on my parent's Cortina - had to fix it quick, before they
got back on Monday !   (OK, so it's hardly Ferris Bueller)


> I can't understand how such a problem would occur
> because the instant the belt snaps the valves stay where they are and
> the pistons can't reach up that far to smack them.

Exactly - but the *camshaft* will also stay where it is, and will
probably be holding a valve or two in the open position. If they're
open, then the pistons might get close enough to hit them.


> If there wasn't some sort of clearance, what would happen when the timing
> was out????????

You can't turn the engine over to start it (or when you hand-turn it,
after assembling it).

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos,rec.autos.sport,alt.autos.antique
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: GOODGUYS Northwest Get-Together in Salem, OR
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 20:50:06 GMT

'm heading out for Salem for the Get-Together - weather look's good - 
lots of cars - lots of merchants/manufacturer's reps - music - a
good time for all this weekend - at the Oregon State Fair grounds
in Salem, OR

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yp@cbnews.cb.att.com (yagnesh.pathak)
Subject: VAN CUSTOMIZING
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 17:04:09 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: curtains do-it-yourself

 I am thinking of putting curtains in my Dodge minivan. Getting it done outside 
could cost around $400.00 and it doesn't seem like much hard work. 

Have people put curtain in their minivans? I would appreciate if folks can 
share info as to what is involved, would just a metal drill, screws, curtain 
rods and fabric is all one needs, can it be done over a week end and other 
related info. 

I cannot read this newsgroup(or others) frequently so please respond to me 
directly and will be happy to post it if there is enough interest.


Thanks

Yagnesh Pathak
yp@cbosgd.att.com
From: mjk@icf.hrb.com (Michael J. Kelley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Camry
Date: 27 Jul 92 09:01:49 GMT
Organization: HRB Systems, Inc.

In article <eur.711812403@dutncp8>, eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
> In <1992Jul20.183632.12829@EE.Stanford.EDU> mack@isl.Stanford.EDU (mack) writes:
> 
>>I need some net.advice for replacing the timing belt on my Nissan
>>Sentra 85. The original belt worked for 102K miles before it gave in,
>>and the car died on me last Friday. I had it towed home (God bless
>>AAA). How easy/difficult a task is it to replace the belt? I am not a
>>very good mechanic, but I do most of my car's maintenance by myself.
>>Any tips I should know?
> 
> Buy a new engine. If your timing belt came off while the engine was revving,
> it is gone. Broken and bent valves, cracked pistons and a damaged head. :-(
              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I was driving my Toyota Camry when my timimg belt went and there was no engine
damage. It cost me $400. to get the belt replaced, but the car runs fine.



                                                              Mike Kelley
                                                              HRB Systems
                                                              St. College, Pa.

###############################################################################

###############################################################################
From: jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Date: 30 Jul 92 01:02:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NASA Ames Research Center


I'll second the claim that the GT designation originally implied
a fixed roof (not necessarily a "hardtop" convertible in the sense of
no B pillar).  This I first learned from reading, but there are
examples:

MGB	roadster
MGBGT	hardtop version

Shelby Daytona	- gt version of the cobra

-- 

	Jeff Mulligan (jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov)
	NASA/Ames Research Ctr., Mail Stop 262-2, Moffett Field CA, 94035
	(415) 604-3745
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Spark plug wires and radio interference
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 04:20:57 -0500

 RK> One of the main reasons that resistance wires are used, is they are 
 RK> very
 RK> helpful in creating a more consistant spark.  It is true that the
 RK> radio interference is greatly redused by using resistance in the
 RK> secondary ignition (spark plug) wires, but as early as 1960 even
 RK> Volkswagen used solid core copper wires with a screw on resistor at the
 RK> spark plug connection.  This was done to up the required voltage for 
 RK> arc
 RK> over.  This tends to make the spark more reliable by delaying the
 RK> start of the spark until higher voltages are present.  Less misfires 
 RK> are
 RK> the result.

Sorry to have to disagree with you; but my understanding is that the function of
resistance in the HT wires or connectors is to reduce the _current_, not the
_voltage_.

The Bosch Technical Instruction on Battery Ignition Systems lists the following
factors determining the requirement for firing voltage in Kettering ignition
systems:

1) Spark plug gap
2) Condition of electrodes
3) Shape of electodes
4) Electrode material
5) Polarity of center electrode
6) Temperature at the electrodes and in the combustion chamber
7) Composition of mixture
8) Compression of mixture.

Series resistance is not a factor provided it is low in relation to the spark
plug gap and other resistive factors.

The Bosch Technical Instruction goes on to say, "All electrical systems must be
provided with all necessary interference suppression devices so that outside the
vehicle interference-free radio reception is guaranteed. Since 1958 all German
automobile manufacturers have equipped the vehicles they produce with long-range
interference suppression equipment." " The most effective devices for
suppressing interference are ohmic resistors, capacitors, inductors (chokes),
and grounded cable shielding."



 RK> 
 RK> Spark ignition in a Otto cycle engine is high probability rather than a
 RK> certainty even when all components are in excellent condition.
 RK> -- 
 RK> Rick Kirchhof   Austin, Texas                   | Experience is what 
 RK> you
 RK> Domain: rick@posms.cactus.org                   | get when you don't
 RK> Bang path: ...!cs.utexas.edu!peyote!posms!rick  | get what you want.    
 RK>         
 RK> =======================================================================
 RK> ====
 RK> 
 RK> ---
 RK>  * Origin: The Black Cat's Usenet <=> Fidonet Gateway (1:109/401.0)
 RK>  PATH: 109/401 40
From: sew@philabs.philips.com (Scott E. Wakeman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: dash fix
Date: 31 Jul 92 17:58:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, New York



 NW>         I have an older mercedes that is developing a crack in it's
 NW>         vinyl dash. It's quite small at present and I would like to
 NW>         keep it that way. Any suggestions on how to curtail it's
 NW>         progress would be greatly appreciated.

Probably it's dark blue or black. This is very common, and I don't know anything
you can do about it other than cover the dash whenever your car is parked in the
sunlight.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Depending on how big the crack is, there are a couple things you can do.
 
   First thing , stop the direction of the crack in both directions.
To do this, you have to drill a hole at each end of the crack, make it
slightly larger than the width of the crack. This will stop the crack,
for now anyways, but you have to do the next step. 
Second, use a dash repair kit to fill the crack. If it is a small crack,
just this step might do the trick.

 The best way to prevent this is to keep the dash lubricated with 
something like Armor-All or similiar product. Especially during the
summer months. A sunshield isn't enough because the interior still gets
hot and dry, even if a window is cracked open.


     -scott  (sew@philabs.philips.com)



    
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 22:57:02 GMT
Subject: Re: head gasket on a taurus
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths) writes:

>In-Reply-To:  prmx@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
>
>> I am about to replace the head gasket on my '86 Ford Taurus 2.5L engine.
>> My question is: Torque the gasket once, or should I slack the bolts at some
>> interval, then re-torque them.
>
>
>Probably neither !
>
>I don't know that engine, but you seem to have a misunderstanding
>about re-torqueing head bolts. It's normal practice to re-torque
>after about 500 miles, but this just involves tightening the bolts up
>further, *not* slackening them first.

My Robert Bentley (VW) manual is explict about this, saying that the head
bolts need to be broken loose with about 1/8 turn backwards, before
retorqueing them.

Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: rrosen@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Randy Rosenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Left turn light acting verrry strange -- help!
Keywords: hazard lights, turn signals
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:20:33 GMT
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com


I would just change the bulbs and install a heavy-duty flasher relay.
I know that the bulbs may not be the problem, if they are, swapping
them out for new ones will only cost about $3 and take about 1/2 hour 
of your time.

I had a similar problem when I hooked-up a trailer for the first time
to my '90 S10 Blazer, yet the problem affected both right and left
turn signals.  It seamed that the standard flasher relay was not 
sufficient to handle the extra load required to operate the turn signals
on the trailer.  After explaining this problem to the U-Haul people,
they recommended swapping in a "Heavy-Duty" flasher relay.  I did.
It cost about $3 to $4 (it was cheap), and it worked.

Anyway, that's what I would do.

Good luck,
Randy

In article <1992Jul26.194547.16242@col.hp.com>, bae@hplsdll.col.hp.com (Bruce Erickson) writes:
|> Oh gurus of the auto electrical world -- please help me!
|> 
|> I have an 86 S10 Blazer that just started having the following problem:
|> 
|>    When the lights are on (either parking lights or headlights), the
|>    left turn light indicator (on the dash board) comes on and the
|>    left turn lights (front & back both) don't come on (they should!).
|> 
|>    When I push on the left-turn signal, they flash (but a little faster
|>    than normal).
|> 
|>    When the parking lights are off, the signals & indicator behave
|>    normally.
|> 
|>    For further enjoyment, if the parking lights are on, and I press
|>    the hazard button, all lights flash normally -- *except* the left
|>    turn lights which flash "on" when the other lights flash "off" and
|>    visa versa!  The hazard lights work normally when the parking lights
|>    are off.
|> 
|> Anybody have a hint as to the problem?
|> 
|>                   Thanks a lot!
|>                   - Bruce Erickson
|>                   bae@col.hp.com

--
        -m-------  Randy Rosenberg                  rrosen@pyramid.com
      ---mmm-----  Pyramid Technology Corporation   Voice:  415/335-8736
    -----mmmmm---  1295 Charleston Road  MV1-2-73   FAX:    415/986-8084
  -------mmmmmmm-  Mountain View, CA  94039         AMA# 643875
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How to use blue silicone RTV
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:32:27 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562) writes:
>I have a water pump in my car which just started leaking.  I fugured that the
>to build a new gasket out of blue RTV.  The instructions on the blister pack
>were clear and explicit.  I laid down a 1/8" bead and screwed the bolts back in
>.
>The instructions said do not torque the housing down far enough so that the
>RTV is squeezed out.  It also said that retorquing is unnecessary.  I followed
>these instructions and it appears to leak still.  This is unfortunate, as it

I usually let the blue goo set for 20 min before installing the part.
This allows a skin to form and keeps the goop from oozing out.

This works for me.

Good luck,

Brian
From: splee@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Seng-Poh Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: How to remove white haze from clear coat?
Date: 23 Jul 92 05:40:16 GMT
Reply-To: splee@gnu.ai.mit.edu
Organization: Free Software Foundation

I have this problem with a white haze on my clear coat paint. I've
buffed it with canuaba wax, and it looks good for a while, but after
the wax dries out a bit, the white haze comes back. How do I get rid
of it? More buffing?

Thanks

--
Seng-Poh Lee    <splee@gnu.ai.mit.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Rodney Weir <rjw@softserver.canberra.edu.au>
Subject: Torque, Horsepower and Brake Horsepower
Organization: University of canberra
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 05:50:56 GMT

Can someone please explain the differences between torque, horsepower and
brake horsepower.  I know this has been covered before but I have never
really seen a clear, understandable explanation.  Also, what does a
torque curve represent and which is best.