HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: becker@edwards-vax.af.mil
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Need help writting nasty letter
Date: 17 Aug 92 21:28:45 GMT
Organization: IFAST - EDWARDS Air Force Base

From: amiranda@ariel.aero.org (Ann Miranda)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 23:21:39 GMT writes.....

>    Hi all,
>  
>  	Well, the subject sort of says it.  Let me explain:
>  
>  	Recently my husband & I bought a female mini dachshund from 
> a local breeder.  (not an official breeder, just someone from the 
> newspaper who breeds dogs -- ie. part-time job, or hobby or whatever 
> you call them).
>  	"Shelby", our baby, is AKC registered, and one of the many 
> reasons we got her was to provide an "outlet" for our overly studly, 
> horney male, AKC registered, beautiful, mini doxie. 
>	 Anyhow, it turns out that  Shelby has mange, a skin disease
> which is caused by microscopic critters (parasitic mites).  
>  	We first noticed the mange actually when we got her, as a small 
> scratch looking patch on her forehead.  But, we assumed it was just 
> a scratch.  A month later, when a bulge appeared in the same spot, 
>and kept growing, we became suspicious, and took her to the vet to 
> have it checked.  He took a skin scraping and saw the mites and lots 
> of eggs on her skin.  The vet told us that mange is passed from the 

stuff deleted...

Why you got your puppy is your business.  I don't think that a nasty letter
is necessary.  It could be that these breeders have no idea their bitch has
mange.  Hopefully they have enough umm, heck I can't think of the word I want
to use, but enough smarts to quit breeding their dog, and  if not hopefully
they will at  least notify potential buyers of the problem.

stuff deleted.....
  
>   	So, that brings me to the subject line.  I feel the need to 
> write the breeder and express my anger and disgust.  I don't expect 
> anything from her, but I think she should not be breeding that 
> particular dog, and trying to get the money out of the pups that 
> she is getting. (it seemed pricey to me, anyway ).
>  	Does anyone have any ideas, comments, concerns, flames, 
> whatever else that could help me? I'd appreciate `em!
>  
>  					Thanks,
>  						Ann
>  

Go ahead and write the letter, but be nice.  Give them the benefit of a 
doubt first.  Good Luck!
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: oneill@mailhost.aa.cad.slb.com (Patrick G. O'Neill)
Subject: Re: Scaredy cat dog
Organization: Schlumberger CAD/CAM; Ann Arbor, Michigan (USA)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:46:28 GMT

In article <1992Aug11.085918.1@opal.tufts.edu> gbelli@opal.tufts.edu writes:
>My beagle and I just moved to a new apartment.  It has a fenced in back yard,
>which was one of the deciding factors for taking the apartment.  I had visions
>of Spenser scampering down the stairs (2 flights), doing his business, and 
>coming back upstairs.  The fly in the ointment--he's afraid to go down the 
>stairs.  He wants to (the yard looks mighty appealing to him), but I think
>the steepness of the stairs frightens him.  Does anyone have any suggestions
>as to how I can get him to go down the stairs?  I don't want to traumatize 
>him,  but we'd both enjoy it if he could use the yard.  Thanks for your 
>suggestions.
>Gretchen Belli
>
>PS  He's too heavy for me to carry.

  I have a 10 week old Lab (Bonnie) that just this week made her first 
trip up and then down the stairs.  She didn't have any problem going up 
but was very scared to take the first step coming down.

  What we did was to have Bonnie at the foot of the stairs and I would
go up just a few steps and sit down.  She would follow me up the few
steps.  Then I would go down 1 step and sit.  She felt safe being next to 
me so she came down the 1 step to be close.  Repeated this for the last
two steps.  After doing this a couple times, she soon felt comfortable
coming down two then three steps at a time to get to me.  Of course, Lots
and Lots of praise on each accomplishment along the way.

  We did this same thing over a few days, each time starting out a little
higher up the steps.  When we reached the top she was still a little scared
to take the first step, but once she did the rest was easy for her.  She's
a real pro at it now...


/Patrick
From: pmck@ebony.lle.rochester.edu (Patrick McKenty)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Introducing a new baby to the dog
Date: 19 Aug 92 22:04:19 GMT
Reply-To: pmck@ebony.lle.rochester.edu (Patrick McKenty)
Organization: UofR Laboratory for Laser Energetics

a friend of ours just brought a new one home from the hospital and she suggests
that the mother of the baby come into the house first and greet the dog WITHOUT
the baby then have the father bring in the baby and introduce it to the dog.
we are expecting soon (mid-september) and we were going to try this procedure.
if anyone has advice on this i would also like to hear it.

thanks in advance
pat
From: daveb@pogo.wv.tek.com (Dave Butler)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Cockers & Hunting (Re: looking for new dog suggestions)
Date: 19 Aug 92 16:34:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: pogo.13384
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Wilsonville,  OR.

I find this topic (hunting vs pet Cocker Spaniels) of some interest, and
thought some in this group would be interested in some information I've
garnered.  Recently when I was involved in a discussion about this aspect of
Cockers, I called Ray Caulkin, who is an official for AKC field trials in the
Portland Or.  area.  It should be pointed out that he is not only a field
trial official and a respected breeder of hunting dogs, and he is also a very 
respected vet (if you wish to call him, his number is 503-682-3737).  He 
agreed that hunting Cockers were extremely rare in the Northwest, and also 
nation wide.  He also pointed out something else: about three years ago the 
AKC gave the American Cocker clubs an ultimatum that either they started 
breeding Cockers for hunting, or Cockers would be taken out of the hunting 
category.  He said that some Cockers were making a comeback, but that there 
were still very few organizations testing Cockers at this time.  The great 
majority of Cockers are still in no way raised for hunting.  He also had some 
personal complaints about Cockers, and and feature which have arisen because 
they have been bred for the most part by ring breeders (eg: they have been 
raised for coat and long ears rather than disposition and hunting skills, to 
the detriment of the latter). 

He also pointed out another hunting breed that was severly damaged by the show
ring, that being the Irish Setter (the hunting line of Irish setters is one of
my favorite dogs).  My opinion is that when form is emphasised over function,
function tends to suffer. 
 
				Later,

				Dave Butler

    Why does this magnificent applied science, which saves work and makes 
    life easier, bring us so little happiness? The simple answer runs:
    Because we have not yet learned to make sensible use of it.
				Albert Einstein
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: crs@beta.lanl.gov (Charlie Sorsby)
Subject: Re: Data on Doberman health problems
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 14:01:36 GMT

In article <16841C5DC.N51LS801@ncsuvm.cc.ncsu.edu> N51LS801@ncsuvm.cc.ncsu.edu writes:
=  
= Response from Janet L. Fisher, DVM, Biological Defects/Medical
= Registry, DPCA:
=  
= (1)  VWD close to 60%-70% are affected or are carriers. Hip
= dysplasia - less than 1%. Thyroid - probably close to 60%-70% -
  ^^^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^

This is interesting in that the CHD statistic quoted here differs
from that published by OFA by nearly an order of magnitude ("less
than 1%" as opposed to 8.1%)[1].

While I would not expect the statistics from the two sources to
agree perfectly, I'm surprised that there is such a disparity.  My
view has been that the OFA data represent more or less of a lower
bound on incidence.  (My reasoning is that radiographs are likely
to be submitted to OFA only when there is a reasonable chance that
the animal will be certified nondysplastic--why waste the effort
and money if you already know that it is dysplastic?  Thus the
incidence in the breed population at large is likely to be
greater.)

I would be interested in information or theories that would explain
this significant disparity in published rates of incidence.

[1]  E. A. Corley, D.V.M., PhD. Dipl. ACVR, and G. G. Keller, D.V.M.
<Hip Dysplasia -- A Guide for Dog Breeders and Owners>, 2nd Edition,
Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, 1989.  (pp 16, 19)


-- 
Best,

Charlie "Older than dirt" Sorsby				"I'm the NRA!"
	  crs@lanl.gov
From: terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Crate training forever?
Date: 17 Aug 1992 15:27:13 GMT
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: ralph.eece.ksu.edu

jkearns@ssd.intel.com (Jerry Kearns) writes:

>I have a question regarding crate training philosophy: 

>Once a puppy is crate-trained, can the crate ever be removed, or is itt
>supposed to ALWAYS stay in the crate when the owner is not at home?  
>My wife and I are gone a good portion of the day, and having a dog spend 
>2/3 of its life in a crate even after it's trained seems cruel.

My 4 year old Rott is crate trained, and he frequently goes into his
crate and curls up on the rug in there to sleep.  He also loves
sleeping on his cedar stuffed pillow in the living room and usually 
he will wonder from one sleeping spot to another during the day.  We
leave the door open on the create so he can come and go as he chooses.
Except for traveling in the van locked in his crate, he has probably
not been confined in his crate for a total of 8 hours in the past year.
--
Terry Hull  -  terry@eece.ksu.edu
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering, Kansas State University
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Subject: Re: dog digs holes
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 21:12:56 GMT

Robin, please, please don't punish your dog after the fact.  If you
don't catch him at something, you can't punish him.  Dogs can read
their owners like you wouldn't believe.  It's our responsibility to
try to read them as well as they read us.  You really don't know if
your dog knows he's been bad or is picking up something in your body
language that scares him, hence the submissive behavior.  

I agree with a previous poster who said to pick up the Monks of New
Skete book, "How to be Your Dog's Best Friend."  It has wonderful
advice on corrections and discipline.  Also, in the August edition of
Dog Fancy is an article entitled "No Dig!"  It might be worth reading
as well.

I do disagree a little with some of the people who don't correct their
digging dogs.  The side effects of digging can be dangerous for a dog.
Many plants are toxic to pets and some are so potent as to be fatal if
ingested (tulip bulbs).  Ingestion of bird droppings can cause
seizures, coma or death to some dogs.  

I think that many would agree that there are three basic steps to
teaching your dog what's acceptable and what's not:  

1.  Correction -- when caught in the act, followed by praise for 
    stopping bad behavior.

2.  Teaching -- what is acceptable (consistent correction and praise)

3.  Prevention -- removing the opportunity for misbehavior.

You may have to make your yard off limits until you dog has learned
that digging is not acceptable.  You can also create "setups" so that
your dog is tempted to misbehave -- then you can correct him in the
act.  This is the  only way your dog will learn you don't want him to
dig.  Correcting him after the fact only makes him nervous.  Is the
nice mom coming home or is the mean mom coming home.

schalene


Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: AS.RAF@forsythe.stanford.edu (Rebecca Fenton)
Subject: Re: Followup to 'looking for a place'
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:38:12 GMT

     It's nice to hear about another responsible pet owner (not that
all or even most people are not).  I always carry a pocket sized
scooper and plastic bags when I take my dogs for a walk.

     One of my "Pet" peeves are the people who let their dogs run
loose and then don't clean up after them, especially when they go on
the sidewalk.

     An amusing note:  My 21 mo. old Dobie, Surfer Bob, will not
poop out of his yard (if he can help it).  He'll hold it, even when
we go camping.  When he has to go, he looks so sad (I guess he
thinks he did something wrong).


   Becky - Mom of Harley (kid), Kalien (dog), Surfer Bob (dog #2)
           & Angel T Cat...

********************************************************************
disclaimer:  My opnions are my own, unless they are patentable or
copyrightable.  Then they are the property of my employer.  :-)
********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Subject: Re: LIFE magazine and Puppy Mills
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Reply-To: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Organization: ICS Dept., UC Irvine
Date: 14 Aug 92 16:44:15 GMT

In <1992Aug14.141907.6484@cbnewsk.cb.att.com> king@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (joyce.l.king) writes:

>In article <BsyGpK.FAr@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>, hoff@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Wildfire) writes:
>> Kimberly Laird <U30993@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
>>
>> >don't buy from pet stores, please.....
>>
>> This reminds me of a question....Here in Champaign, there is a petstore
>> that claims it does not buy puppys from mills, and they have posted petitions
>> for people to sign to stop puppy mills.  To what extent is this sort of
>> thing a marketing ploy, and how much is legit?  I like to stop in and
>> look, although it will be quite a while before I can buy a dog.  (I have to

>The Pass Pets store at Castleton Mall (Indy) had the same thing..."We don't
>buy from puppy mills" and "Sign our petition to stamp out puppy mills."
>So I asked to see the places of origin of their puppies.  EVERY SINGLE
>PUPPY came from Missouri, Kansas, or South Dakota.  I don't know about
>South Dakota, but I know that Missouri and Kansas have always been hotbeds
>of puppy mills.  I don't mean to accuse anyone on the net of living in a
>backward state, but that was the situation in the past.  Humane laws were
>very lax.

The best "petstore" I've seen with respect to this is one that has all
those petitions, etc, and NO animals.  Instead, she had a whole
bulletin board full of local breeder listings & descriptions.  She
also had some good material on how to select a breeder.  Now, *thats*
the kind of petstore I like to support.

I don't think that any petstore, no matter how well meaning, can have
dogs or cats on the property for sale.  Even if they *did* come from
non-puppy-mill sources, the plain fact is that they provide a REALLY
POOR environment for the puppy/kitten no matter how you slice the
salami.  A cage, by itself?  Sometimes in a pen where kids can poke at
it?  No personal attention except maybe a few minutes a day? Uh, huh.

--Cindy
--
Cindy Tittle Moore -- Terrell's Chocolate Deduction (chocolate labrador bitch)

The rec.pets.dogs FAQ -- all eight parts -- is available via ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/*.  There
is a mail server, email me for details.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,rec.pets.cats
From: schalene@sequent.com (Schalene Dagutis)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Dog Functionality (was Re: looking for new dog suggestions)
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:35:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug12.153540.26835
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

This is in response to Chris' views that people should only get dogs
if they plan on using them for the purpose for which they were bred.
I'm sorry I didn't keep the post....

Chris, I understand your position and even support it to a degree; and
I think you should have the right to post your opinions on the net.
If we all agreed about everything, this would be a pretty boring
place; and no one would learn anything.  Sometimes opinions different
from our own cause us to think, re-examine, re-evaluate, or re-verify
our original positions.

I even understood your math when you were illustrating how your lab
that you use for retrieving is becoming devalued because many breeders
aren't breeding for that trait anymore....pretty amazing since I'm a
sales type.

But I'm not sure you considered supply and demand.  My brother bought
a lab 7 years ago.....fabulous pedigree, sire was a North Carolina
field champion, etc.  He spent $2,000 for this dog.  The average lab
pup costs a great deal less, I imagine.  So I don't understand how
your lab is being devalued.  If anything labs that retain their basic
instincts and are bred to others the do as well become more valuable.

Don't *hurt* me too badly in your response....My husband and I bought
a dog that was bred to be a companion dog....and we want him for just
that purpose.  

By the way, to whoever wrote that companion dogs are all toys....this
is not the case.  Many can be found in the non-sporting class.  And
they're not all under 10 pounds.

schalene
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Breeding For Sound Hips
Date: 20 Aug 92 12:04:40 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<1992Aug13.184628.12684@mailhost.aa.cad.slb.com>
<1992Aug13.234419.4460@newshost.lanl.gov> <2drp026T1ei701@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>
<19382@drutx.ATT.COM> <2A9128C3.24375@ics.uci.edu> <46575@shamash.cdc.com>
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <46575@shamash.cdc.com> smp@aquarius1.Berkeley.EDU (Susan M
Painter) writes:
..................... Why not test for hips before breeding?  Am I missing
>something when I believe that poor hips are not just a gamble but careful
>breeding can produce healthy dogs with good hips.

Nope, you're not missing something. Not screening breeding stock for genetic
defects (hips, elbows, eyes, hearts, etc) is indeed irresponsible breeding 
practice. However, like most things in life, even "careful" breeding of
can, and unfortunately frequently does, produce puppies with congenital
problems such as hip dysplasia. So SOME breeders (I like to believe a very
few) have decided that breeding is a crap shoot at best, so why waste time and
money screening for problems? Of course, this defeatist attitude does nothing
but perpetuate problems in certain breeds, but some people will only bet on a
sure thing. 
So, if you are buying a puppy, support the breeders that are trying their
damnest to eliminate health problems from your breed. They may not be
successful, but at least they are trying!
*********************************************************************
Marget Johnson, Windwagon Newfoundlands, Tipp City OH

-- 

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Subject: Re: Enviromental and Genetic Factors on HD (was Re: Scaredy cat dog)
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 14:43:15 GMT

In article <2A918806.28761@ics.uci.edu>
     tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore) writes:
 
>In <46575@shamash.cdc.com> smp@aquarius1.Berkeley.EDU (Susan M Painter) writes:
>
>>I am bothered by some breeders who seem to believe that even though it is
>>hereditary, since environmental factors can minimize hip displaysia, they
>>don't seem to bother testing for it and aren't breeding only those dogs that
>>have solid hips.
>
>Agreed!  However, *if* a dog already has HD, it is useful to know that
>some enviromental factors can be used to help the dog be more
>comfortable.  However, whether or not that dog then displays overt
>symptoms, it should not be bred.
 
Just to add an example of what Cindy is talking about, dogs that are
overwieght will develop more problems from HD than those that are fit
and trim.  Just because a dog is confirmed to have HD does not mean
that it cannot live a useful and productive life (and even a long one).
It just means that:
1 - you will have to be attentive to deal with the dog's condition and
    help reduce the environmental factors that can exasserbate the
    problem.
2 - you should not breed the dog/bitch.  Even slight cases of HD are
    unacceptable to pass on.
 
 
>>Why not test for hips before breeding?  Am I missing
>>something when I believe that poor hips are not just a gamble but
>>careful breeding can produce healthy dogs with good hips.
>
>It is a little more complex than that.  If you concentrate that much
>on the hips, you may find yourself with PRA problems or heart
>problems, or ... etc ...  The trick is to minimize everything that you
>can.  Focusing on any particular problem can just mean that another
>problem crops right up.  A very good study (written in Swedish,
>unfortunately), tried to breed just for great hips and wound up with
>mental problems.  They're now breeding for great hips and no mental
>problems (and succeeding, though it's taking more generations (not
>surprising) to acheive their goal).
 
Cindy makes a good point.  The study I saw (in Wash. state, I believe)
tried breeding Labs for perfect hips.  Unforanetly, they developed
such bad overbites and underbites, that they had trouble eating
past about 7 years old (among other problems).
 
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 14 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
From: terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Dogs Sleep how long...on the average per day?
Date: 14 Aug 1992 17:31:27 GMT
Organization: Kansas State University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: ralph.eece.ksu.edu

pyron@skndiv.dseg.ti.com (Dillon Pyron) writes:
>In article <1992Aug14.031506.15011@news.Hawaii.Edu>, bill@gaza.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (William J. King) writes:
>>
>>o	Any estimates on how long a dog sleeps each day?
>>	thanx
>>	wm

>According to my wife, almost as long as I sleep.  Seriously, I suspect that my
>nine-year old pups sleep about 16 hours a day.  But they are ready to go at the
>drop of a hat, the jangle of a leash or the shake of a tidbit box.

My dogs sleep about 12 - 14 hours / day normally.  They will also cut
their sleep back to about 8 or 9 hours / day if there is something
going on they do not want to miss.  When my Rott puppy was little (8
weeks) he slept over 18 hours / day, so their sleep time will vary
throughout their lives.  The jangle of a lead, or a "Out-side?" will
have them at the door impatiently waiting for me in less than 5
seconds.  

--
Terry Hull  -  terry@eece.ksu.edu
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering, Kansas State University
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: pdaunno@Ingres.COM (Paul Daunno, Premium Support)
Subject: WWKC, Is it real?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: world wide kennel club
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 21 Aug 92 11:29:16 GMT

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of the WWKC (World Wide Kennel Club).
If so, is it legitimate, reliable, etc.?   We called the AKC and the person
we spoke to had heard of it but was unsure as to its charter, etc.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul Daunno
Ingres, An ASK Company
Xref: sparky rec.pets.dogs:10031 alt.fan.warlord:5682 talk.bizarre:27104 alt.religion.kibology:3582
From: notbiff@captain.warlord.butt.cheese.org (NOTBIFF)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,alt.fan.warlord,talk.bizarre,alt.religion.kibology
Subject: Re: Wondering
Date: 23 Aug 92 03:21:48 GMT
Followup-To: alt.smouldering.dog.zone,misc.test,alt.newbie,rec.pets.dogs
Organization: CWML

bibby@heroes.UUCP (Big Bob) writes:

>      What is the best flea and tick shampoo for a black lab?

WHILE WE'RE ON THE SUBJECT, CAN SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO SPAY MY
DOG?  I WANT TO DO IT MYSELF AND SAVE MONEY ON THE RIDICULOUS VET
BILLS.

ALSO CAN YOU TELL ME HOW TO TELL WHETHER MY DOG IS A BOY OR A GIRL?  I
THINK THAT MIGHT BE IMPORTANT BEFORE I BEGIN.

THANKS.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs