HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: joes@telxon.uucp (Joe Staudt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Stupid Headlight question
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:47:49 GMT
Reply-To: joes@telxon.UUCP (Joe Staudt)
Organization: Telxon Corporation, Akron Ohio (NNTP with a :-)

In article <3970039@hpsad.sad.hp.com> ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund) 
writes:
>... Usually replacing the bulb is all that's required.  Of
>course the dealers aren't giving away the headlights on the new cars!!  One
>effect of the new stream-lined halogen headlights is that they tend to cost
>several times what the old round sealed beam lights used to cost.  

BZZT! Wrong!

I didn't see the original post, but I assume the question had something to do
with replacing a burned-out headlight.  The "new stream-lined halogen 
headlights" Gary refers to are actually only headlight covers, or lenses, just
like on your taillights.  This cover CAN be expensive to replace, but you only
need to replace it if it gets broken.  The actual headlight bulb INSIDE the
cover costs about the same as a comparable sealed-beam headlight.

Joe


Joseph Staudt, Telxon Corp. | ...!uunet!telxon!joes || joes%telxon@uunet.uu.net
P.O. Box 5582               | In the force if Yoda is so strong, construct a
Akron, OH  44334-0582       |     sentence with words in the proper order then
(216) 867-3700 x3522        |     why can't he?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Economics&OldVolvos
From: derek@fivegl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 92 22:35:00 GMT
Reply-To: derek@fivegl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Organization: Task Management Ltd, Auckland, New Zealand

In article <62640040@col.hp.com> ppa@col.hp.com (Paul Austgen) writes:
>                          ....then it could easily go another
>100,000 miles.  I drive all my Volvos at least this far....

I read an article about an American who had driven his Volvo from new to 
over 1,000,000 miles!. it was one of those old Volvo sports cars ( can't
remember the name P### I think.)  Original engine and everything. I believe 
Volvo gave him a brand new Volvo. I might have the article at home if 
anyones interested.

Derek "I don't drive a Volvo, but I don't forget to indicate when I do" Tearne

-- 
Derek Tearne      derek@fivegl.co.nz | If yo
  rek      l   .nz                   | yo
New Zea
and while he wasn't looking the .sig eaters were busy at work
From: stecz@hotwheel.Eng.Sun.COM (John Steczkowski [CONTRACTOR])
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: VW tire lift....
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:33:57 GMT
Reply-To: stecz@hotwheel.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hotwheel

In article pauly@netcom.com, pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune) writes:
> Actually, in my experience, the problem with Rabbits and such is that they have
> exceptionally good grip.  This in itself is not a problem, but but there is so
> much body roll, that while the suspension is doing its job, the rest of the
> car is leaning incredibly hard, thereby pulling the inside tire.  Given the
> amount of force pulling the car, the suspension tends to let go all at once,
> when the absolute limit is reached.  This is when you have to start worrying
> about rolling...

Sort of.....

Actually a stiffly sprung Rabbit will do the same thing, it just won't lift the
wheel as high.  My Shelby GLHS (kissing cousing to a Rabbit) would lift the
inside rear tire, even though it was very stiffly sprung, had stiff shocks (Koni)
and stiff anti-roll bars. The reason it would lift the rear wheel, is that if you
put a lot of roll stiffness in front, the inside front wheel will tend to lift
(not necessarily off the
ground), this will allow it to spin if you give it power.  If you put the roll
stiffness in back, the car stays flat, but not as much weight will be transfered
to the outside front tire, and the inside front tire will have more traction,
so you can accelerate out of a corner better.  The rear roll stiffness causes the
inside rear tire to lift, it doesn't mean the car is ready to flip over.

Most performance oriented front wheel drive cars will lift the inside rear on hard
cornering.  I used to use it as a tool, if I heard the rear wheel hit the ground
several times in a corner, or very early in a corner, I knew I wasn't driving 
smoothly.

John
---
  John Steczkowski                            stecz@pencom.com
        65mph: it's not a good idea, it just the law.
From: bourman@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Bob Bourman)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 21:15:40 GMT
Subject: Re: SQUEAKING STEERING WHEEL
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

/ hpcc01:rec.autos.tech / ah881@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joyce Brabner) /  9:58 pm  Apr  8, 1992 /

>The steering wheel on our 85 Toyota Tercel (automatic) now
>squeaks, when we make turns.  This might be something we'll
>have to ask a mechanic to check out.  Is this a well-known sign
>of serious trouble that should be dealt with right away, or can
>it wait until the next tune-up?  I'm pretty sure it's the steering 
>wheel itself, not a sound from the wheels or tires.  

>E-mail advice, please!
-- 



	More times than not it's the commutator ring that is squeaking,
	usually due to the lack of lubricant.

	On some cars you can take the steering wheel off and apply some
	lube on the ring. Other cars you may be able to take the cowling
	off the back of the steering wheel and get to the ring from there.

	My Taurus (88) and my friends 86 did the squeak. He was able to take
	the wheel off, I was not and had to use method #2...

	BOBB


----------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: So what is octane, anyway?
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 17:08:34 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 How about a list of organic compounds readily available, their octane number
and vapor pressures, and energy content by volume? And a formula for the
octane of mixtures of dissimilar compounds given the individual octane?
It didn't look to me like it was a linear thing from the previous article.

 Yeah I'm too lazy to try and buy the books (whatever they are) blah blah.

--
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: rdg@world.std.com (Richard D Goldstein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fake car alarms?
Date: 14 Apr 92 12:42:54 GMT
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

mpv@ecl.psu.edu (Mike Rivkind) writes:

>Can fake car alarms be purchased?

>I've that only about 5% of the cars that have a blinking light in the dash
>(which suggests a car alarm) will emit a siren when the bumper is kicked very
>hard.  This makes me think that those cars do not have a real car alarm.

HEY!  Are you the guy who has been going around kicking my car?!!

Yes, I DO have an alarm connected to my blinking red light.  It just does
not have a Motion Detector.  It Does have an electrical system sensor &
a sub-audible pressure sensor to detect very low frequency noises.

So if you want to kick something, go over to a new car lot and kick the
tires!  (Show's 'em how smart you are ?;^)

Rich G.
-- 
Richard D. Goldstein
Schiller & Kusmer
Patent Attorneys At Law
(617) 227-5454 Telephone
From: bill@hood.Berkeley.EDU (Bill Norcott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Dealer Service Dept part switching
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:01:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: tandem.1992Apr16.170124.11742
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

This is a really terrible experience.  I hope you have contacted the Ford regional office
besides just your dealer.  It is definitely parts switching if you can establish that all the 
engine parts originally came from the same batch, i.e. there should not have been parts
from 5/88 in with 3/89.  I can't imagine why they would switch parts like that unless
it was the following (and they were crooks): they decided that improper oil change
voided the engine warrantee, and they wanted to make the engine look more damaged
than it actually is so they could soak you for a major rebuild at your expense.

You did not say when the oil was last changed or by whom.  An oil filter gasket is an
integral part of the filter, i.e., it's not that kind of thing where somebody could intall
the filter with two gaskets.   What probably happened is that when the old filter was
removed some of the gasket stuck to the engine block and whoever installed the new
filter did not scrape off all the old one -- you have to do this.  Seems to me this was the
cause of the engine failure.  If it was the dealer who changed your oil then they are 
responsible for the engine damage.  If not you would probably have to go after whoever
did the bad oil change, not the dealer or Ford. 

The flat rate system used by all the manufacturers for warrantee work limits the labor
time they will get paid by the factory to do a repair.  This encourages part replacement
under warrantee instead of diagnosis, since it is much quicker to just change a part than
to figure out the cause of problem.   This does not mean that the mechanics are bozos
who don't know how to diagnose a problem -- they don't do it because they are not
getting paid to do it.  (They may or may not be bozos as well).  If you can show that the
recommended procedure included changing the filter as well and they didn't do that,
they share the blamed even if somebody else screwed up installing the filter (i.e.,
it would have come to their attention before the real damage was done).  You or your
lawyer should look at the Ford service manual to see if they should have changed the
filter instead of just add oil.

I am very sorry this happened to you.

---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott                    	GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue  	PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014           	EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
From: chucks@banana.ithaca.ny.us (Chuck Schultz)
Subject: Re: Rolling a car, general questions
Organization: The Twisted Banana BBS, Ithaca NY (US)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 03:22:02 GMT

rlatham@fwhnm1d.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com (Max Headroom) writes:

> 
> I have a few questions about rolling a car.  Is it possible
> to tell at what point a car will start sliding when going 
> around a corner, before it happens?
> And what is the possibility of rolling a car in a corner?
> What do I need to watch for in order NOT TO ?
> Any advice as to how to tell the limit of a curve, like
> how much over the posted speed is generally safe?
> 
> 
> Russ Latham (rlatham@mailbox.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com)
>              (latham@motcid.rtsg.mot.com)
> 
The safest way to learn the limits of car control is to find out
who holds autocross events in your area, and join in!  You'll
find out just what your car can do, and you may get the
temptation out of your system, knowing you can really thrash the
car, safely, next weekend, instead of on the on-ramp.


Chuck Schultz (chucks@banana.ithaca.ny.us)     via:  The Twisted Banana BBS
PO Box 482    (607-387-3610)                                   607-273-3233
Ovid NY   14521                    N2PUA                          Ithaca NY
===========================================================================
Happy motoring!                                             Happy modeming!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
             It's not my fault!  I'm a driver, not a mechanic.
===========================================================================
From: tran@aio.jsc.nasa.gov (JQ)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Restore engine compression
Date: 9 Apr 1992 18:41:54 GMT
Organization: nasa-jsc

Excuse me if this is a FAQ.  I'd like to know if car engine oil
additives really work as claimed.  Some of these off-the-shelf oil
are claimed to "restore engine compression to original level", "stop oil
burn", "stop engine  wear", etc.  My car does have very low
compression in cylinder #6, and I am tempted to pour lots of
restore-engine-compression-oil in.
JQ
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 05:03:44 PDT
Subject: Re: loss of power, etc.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

since you seem to be having a loss of power especially climbing hills
i'd check to see if the egr valve is staying open all the time. its 
supposed to close when under excelleration and not open at all until
the engine has come up to temp.   i hope this helps. mike nason

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5689 rec.autos.driving:2298
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Rolling a Civic..
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:56:59 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.driving
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies

[i'm setting the followup-to field to slide this over to rec.autos.driving,
as the topic is heading that way -- rpw]

In article <7jnjaj=.pauly@netcom.com> pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune) writes:
>  Other cars, like Rabbits, are more
>prone to rolling the car.  In fact, you often see Rabbits, GTIs, and 2002s
>lifting the inner rear wheel when cornering excessively hard...

`excessively hard'?

lifting inside wheels can happen when you are at the limit; i've lifted
the inside _front_ on my Alfa sedan on occasion at lime rock.  lifting inside
rears is commonly seen at autocrosses on VW Rabbits and GTIs of various
sorts; in fact, i'd argue that all the really fast drivers of these
cars in stock form lift the inside rears if they are at all competitive.

are you sure that 2002 lifted the inside _rear_?  i'd expect a front engine,
rwd car to lift the inside _front_, not the inside _rear_.

if you are regularly lifting an inside tire, then that is a message
telling you that you might wish to consider increasing roll stiffness
at the other end of the car (which may or may not be legal in a `stock'
class, depending on where you compete.)

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Are '83 Subaru brake discs removable?
Date: 8 Apr 92 13:03:34 EDT
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA
In-reply-to: franz@cs.washington.edu's message of 7 Apr 92 22:03:29 EDT

In article <1992Apr8.020329.29097@beaver.cs.washington.edu> franz@cs.washington.edu (Franz G. Amador) writes:


>   Does anybody know if the front brake rotors of an '83 Subaru GL wagon
>   can be removed for resurfacing?  _How_to_Keep_Your_Subaru_Alive_ says
>   they can, a local respected tire/brake/alignment shop says they can't.
   <stuff deleted>

    I would bet that these rotors are like the ones on my 1982 Nissan
    Sentra. They are mounted in such a way, that they have to be pressed
    off the hub. I was able to remove one of mine with a slap hammer puller,
    but the other would not come off. And it was nearly impossible to get
    the one that came off, back on! What I ended up doing was removing the
    entire strut assembly (disconnect from lower control arm, steering 
    knuckle, and shock tower) and carrying the whole thing into the machine
    shop. The machinist did not seem surprised, and mentioned that he got
    a lot of rotors in like that. He could mount the whole assembly in the
    lathe. When I could not get the other rotor back on, I ended up removing
    that side also, and having the machine shop press the rotor,hub,bearing 
    assembly back together for me. I still refer to this as the brake job
    from hell!  The machinist mentioned that the dealer's had a special 
    brake lathe which would turn the rotors while still on the car, and
    that it was very expensive. And before the "replace the pads before 
    the rotors get scored" flames start, I was not the owner of the car
    when the pads wore out. As a matter of fact, it was the fact that 
    the car needed a brake job which allowed me to buy it for $0.40 (that's
    right, forty cents) when it had 165,000 miles on it. Now has over 
    180,000 and going strong! Even the A/C works! (Hell, for 40 cents, it
    better :-))

>   Obviously, given enough work, they must come off somehow.  How else
>   could you replace them?  Is there some sort of labor threshold
>   beyond which a shop will say they can't do it?

--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune)
Subject: Holley Power Valves 
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 08:23:20 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: usa

Actually, the problem you had with your new power valve was the opposite of
what you thought.  Power valves are held closed by vacuum, and when vacuum
drops below a certain point (i.e., a large demand is put on the engine), the
spring will force the valve open.  Therefore, if you had a very heavy spring,
you would get MORE fuel flow earlier, as opposed to less.  The bog you felt
when the car "fell flat on its face" was probably an over-rich condition...

By the way, you cannot just get the springs for power valves.  They are indeed
color coded (although sometimes the colors are hard to distinguish), but the
opening point is what you are most concerned with.  Generally, they can open
anywhere from 2.5 Hg (very late, light spring) to 10.5 Hg (very early, heavy
spring).  Best results for most cars are obtained with either a 6.5 or 8.5
power valve...

-- 
-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]
From: stecz@hotwheel.Eng.Sun.COM (John Steczkowski [CONTRACTOR])
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Are '83 Subaru brake discs removable?
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:24:15 GMT
Reply-To: stecz@hotwheel.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hotwheel

In article 29097@beaver.cs.washington.edu, franz@cs.washington.edu (Franz G. Amador) writes:
> Does anybody know if the front brake rotors of an '83 Subaru GL wagon
> can be removed for resurfacing?  _How_to_Keep_Your_Subaru_Alive_ says
> they can, a local respected tire/brake/alignment shop says they can't.
> The guy at the shop said, "A front brake job costs x, but, oops, your
> car is a special case.  We can't take the rotors off, so we have to
> machine them on the car, which means the job costs 4x [or something
> like that]."
> 
> Obviously, given enough work, they must come off somehow.  How else
> could you replace them?  Is there some sort of labor threshold
> beyond which a shop will say they can't do it?

What they probably means is that they don't just float on the hubs.  On my RX-7,
You have to remove the bearings, etc, to get the rotors off.  On my Shelby GLHS,
you just remove the wheel, hit the rotor with a mallet, and the disks come off of
the studs.

---
  John Steczkowski                            stecz@pencom.com
        65mph: it's not a good idea, it just the law.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Subject: Re: Engine Temp Quickly "Surges" Up & Down
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 17:57:54 GMT


   Yes, as a matter of fact the gas gage did go up yesterday when it took
place again. So what is the most likely cause? Is there such thing as a
gage voltage regulator, or is this the voltage regulator for the alternator?
-- 
    __ This ISN'T about lazy Americans. This ISN'T about being uncompetitive.
 __/// This ISN'T about Japan bashing.          This ISN'T EVEN about racism.
 \XX/  THIS *IS* ABOUT OPEN MARKETS AND JAPAN DOESN'T HAVE ONE!  BOTTOM LINE!
       The Cryptozoology Information Network  Want on our Email mailing list?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: st1el@rosie.uh.edu (Jensen, Douglas J.)
Subject: Re: Weber 32/36 DFV question
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords: weber carb
Organization: University of Houston
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 02:00:00 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.135944.5001@keps.kodak.com>, pz@keps.kodak.com (Paul Czarnecki) writes...
>I need to rebuild the carb on my 1973 vw micro bus.  It does NOT have
>the original dual carbs on it.  They were replaced by the previous
>owner with a single Weber.  The number on the base of the weber is
>32/36 DFV, next to these numbers are 23-A 7B.  My local Very Good
>Parts Store (No Airfresheners) doesn't list this model in their
>catalogs.  They did find a 32/36 DFEV and 32/36 DFAV. 
> 
>How can I tell which one I have or if either of this will work?

The difference is that you most likely have the manual choke version.  The
DFAV is a water-heated choke, and DFEV is electrically heated.

The rebuild kit for the DFEV will probably be the closest to what you need.

[posted to net 'cause I hit "f" not "R"]

> 
>Please respond via email, I'll let the net know the answer when I find
>out.  (This has been posted to rec.autos.tech as well as rec.autos.vw,
>If you insist on following up, I have redirected followups to
>rec.autos.tech since it likely isn't vw specific.)
> 
>Thanks.
> 
>					pZ
>					pz@keps.kodak.com

---Doug
From: PAH112@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Rings->Can you just replace w/o reboring?+Bearings.
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:20:35 GMT
Organization: Penn State University

I have a simple question.  Can I just replace the rings on my car w/o reboring
the cylinders?  I guess I would have to de-glaze them though.


Can you just replace crankshaft+con.rod bearings w/o regrinding the crank?

*******************************************************************************
* Peter Howard                *  " If the speed limit is 55 mph, why does my  *
* DoD# 0924                   *    does my speedometer go to 160 ? "          *
* 1985 Ninja 600              *************************************************
* EMAIL: PAH112@PSUVM.PSU.EDU *  " Slower traffic keep right."                *
*******************************************************************************
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford 150 Blues
Date: 15 Apr 92 14:17:56 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

If after you get done checking out the hydraulic system and the problem
still exists, I would guess the next thing to check is the pressure plate.
Sounds like either a rivet came loose that holds the spring fingers in
place or the spring fingers (or disc) were not tempered correctly and
have yielded in time.  Both of these problems are common to clutches from
any vehicle line.  I have a buddy that had a retaining rivet break on his
1979 F-150 at 140K miles, he took the clutch/pressure plate set in, compared
it to new (the original was thicker than a new one), reattached the spring
disc assembly, put it all back into the truck and away he went.  I think he's
past 180K miles and still going...

Is this a 4X4?  You'll have to pull the transfer case, too, if it is. 

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech