HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: External Pump Transfers TOO much heat. (M)
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:46:38 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.182918.15040@attain.icd.teradyne.com> brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter) writes:
>>
>I bought an IWAKI (30rlxt) which I have just installed so it's too early
>to comment on heat yet.  
>
>The IWAKI does move more water that the quietone but not a lot more
>I will meaasure this when I get time. 
>
>On this issue of noise however both the quiet one and the IWAKI 
>have no chance of being heard over the rest of the noise.
>
>For those who are thinking of adding a sump or TF/sump which
>I think is a good idea be warned that the prefilter gurgling
>and the sump bubbleing are loud even with noise mitigation.

I have no appreciable noise for either.  The prefilter is in the trickle
filter and has a cover.  This cuts >75% of the noise out.  As for the
sump I set it up so that the chamber where the water drips in is
isolated and makes no noise.

	|	|		|
	|_______|<- Drip Plate	|
Bio-    |	|		|
Media ->|	|		|
	|-------|---------------| <- water level
	|    |  |^ |		|
	|    |___| |		|==> water out to pump
	|	   |		|
	------------------------

I pump air in to the Bio Media so there is plenty of 02 available to the
helpful criters that reside there.

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Small Reef Tanks
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:58:47 GMT
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN

thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong) writes:

: >I would like to hear from anyone out there with *small* reef tanks.
: >(small means <=20 gallons)  The latest(?) AFM has an article by Tullock
: >about small reef tanks that is quite interesting.  He recommends (as
: >an example) a 20g, 40 watts of light (actinic/ultralume), and a skimmer,
: >after that he states that hammer coral, elegance, and tridacnas should do
: >OK in it.  He also _recommended_ a Skilter.....  

: My reef tank is 20gal.  I don't think 40 watts of light is nearly enough
: to keep corals.  Although it may be enough to keep live rocks and
: macroalgaes.

This may not necessarily be true.  Corals with purple, red, yellow and 
orange do not need the bright intense light because generally they are
deep living or cave dwelling species.  This is not to say that they do
not appreciate the extra light I just don't think they absolutely have
to have it....
--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: dawn@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Dawn Owens-Nicholson)
Subject: Re: Okay, I'm really serious now!
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 02:23:22 GMT

re; plants in small aquaria, I have a homade 13 gal I have a lot of
hygrofilia, not sure on spelling, and some crypts, and amazon swords,
I also have some of the hygrofilia in a betta bowl, You just can't kill
the stuff, unless you have some silver dollars, they just munch the
heck out of it.

John H Owens, posting from my daughter,s account.
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 18:16:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Fish people
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers) writes:

    Of course the above applies to "Dupla" tank types as well, eh?  (you
    know who you are)

Huh?  What?  

    I won't even mention discus keepers.

Aaaaww, gee whiz.

-------
George
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com
Subject: Air Pump				
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 13:52:19 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

I've had an small air pump for a year, and now its getting quite buzzy.	
Do people usually try to have them repaired, or do they chuck them
out and buy a new one?

Is there much difference between air pumps?  What's recommened for both
small and heavy-duty pumps?  THanks
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Shutting Cannister Filter off when Feeding
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:51:02 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

Do most people shut their cannister filters off when feeding
so that the food doesnt get sloshed around and sucked into the
filter before the fish get a chance to feed?  I'd think that
decreasing the turbulence also makes feeding easier and insures
that the food is eaten before it is pushed all around the tank
making it dirtier.
 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: Summertime overheating
X-Xxdate: Thu, 13 Aug 92 22:06:20 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7
Organization: NCSA
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 21:12:50 GMT

In article <63917@cup.portal.com> Patrick L Faith, PLai@cup.portal.com
writes:
>Well its getting perty hot around hera (California) and I decided
>to save some money by running my lights at night (when it is cooler),
>so my cooler won't have to run all day long.  For people without
>coolers that are having overheating problems, running the lights
>at night instead of thru the day should drop the temperature atleast
>a few degrees. (not sure what this would do to you reef spawners).
>
>PLai
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6511 alt.aquaria:4611
From: ACH2@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Okay, I'm really serious now!
Date: 16 Aug 92 15:52:35 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Penn State University

In article <1992Aug13.232415.12858@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>,
lkern@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Leesa J Kern) says:
>
>What kind of plants would work in a small freshwater tank?  I know this
>question has been asked alot recently, but I either miss responses, or I see
>him after seeing what kind of set up the original poster had to see if it's
>similar.  So sorry for the repeat.
>
     I presently have a 10g tank lit by a 15 watt fluorescent bulb
in which Java Moss and Java fern is growing. The  Moss is fairly
stringy stuff, but it grows easily, and when stretched out across
the tank it makes a nice green background. It is also supposed to
be a great place for tetras and barbs to lay their eggs, but tell
my tetras that.
     The fern is growing OK, but slowly in this low-light situation.
It is best when tied to driftwood (loosely) with nylon thread, as
it eventually attatches it's roots to the wood.
     One advantage to these two plants also is that they don't want/need
their roots buried, so a thick layer of gravel is unnecessary. One
disadvantage is that fish stores rarely seem to carry it, despite the
fact that this grows so easily (esp. in the hard alkaline water I have).
Makes more sense to them to sell non-aquatic dracaena and "pine plants"
that eventually die and dissolve necessitating repeat business (sure).
Anyway, I got the stuff from Delaware Aquatics (see add in FAMA),
you'll probably spend more money on Postage and Handling than on these
inexpensive plants.

>Anyway, as I said it's a cheapy 10 gal. (cheap boyfriend), which has a heater,
>air pump, and Aqua Clear Mini filter.  Current fish population is one neon
>tetra,  3 White Cloud Mountain minnows, and a sucking loach (which does a less
>than admirable job on the algae).  What I'd like eventually is 6 Neons and 6
>WCM Minnows,and another sucking loach to keep the current one company.
>
I'm not sure what the "sucking loach" is, but i'd think an Otocinclus
or two would be great in this tank. The oto is like a smaller Chinese
algae eater with a flatter head and a dark stripe along it's side.
     Another unrequested suggestion: attach the air pump to a
sponge filter (like tetra Billi filter) and hide it in the corner
for additional bio filtration.

Alan Hutson
ach2@psuvm.psu.edu
From: nick@icad.com (Nick Caruso)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Question about continuous, gradual water changes.
Date: 12 Aug 92 23:26:47 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: ICAD Inc., Cambridge, MA


Suppose my town water supply has only chlorine in it, and not
chloramine.  If I have a 29 gallon FW tank (which I do) and I want to
gradually change all of the water over the course of a week, the
amount works out to about 0.65 liters/hour or 10.9 ml/minute.

0) Is this sort of gradual water change good for my fish?  I would of
course clean the gravel regularly.  

1) How can I decide if it's ok to run plain tap water into the tank at
that rate?  At what rate does chlorine diffuse out of water, given
that the water's agitated and filtered??

2) Supposing it isn't, is simple aeration (i.e. a spray device above a
collecting tank, with some sort of ventilation) a practical way to
remove chlorine at these flow rates?

Replies via email, please- my site doesn't keep rec. newsgroups very
long, and we often lose traffic due to lack of disk space, so I would
likely miss many of your replies.

  thanks!
--
  --nicholas caruso                   nick@icad.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: magnum 350
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:18:05 GMT
Distribution: sci.aquaria alt.aquaria
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1992Aug13.151656.16017@convex.com> brohard@convex.com (James Brohard) writes:


>    I considering buying the magnum 350. Does anyone have this model, and
>can tell be of any problems, or their satisfaction level of this model?
>I have had a 330 for about 5 years, but the motor gave out a couple of
>weeks ago. I've looked at the 350, and it has many improvements over the
>330, which is a plus, but I need feed back from users.


>                         Thanks, James Brohard

I've had the Magnum 220 for about a year. I think the 350 just has
a bigger impeller, but the same design.

I have no complaints - it does what it claims and is absolutely
silent.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dbailey@bcarh673.bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey)
Subject: Re:  Snails, Particle Board Stands, Underground Filters		
Reply-To: dbailey@bcarh673.bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 17:04:19 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.131817.27642@watson.ibm.com>, cliff@watson.ibm.com writes:
|> I came across a nice fishtank stand for a 110 gallon tank that was
|> made of that compressed particle board.  The fish store sells it.
|> Shall I assume that the particle board can really withstand the
|> weight?	

Particle board is strong, but not very resistant to water damage.
I've build a number of stands for my own use and for the use of
friends.  I haven't and wouldn't built any out of particle board.

Doug Bailey
From: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Gary R Pimm)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Algae bloom from trace elements
Date: 18 Aug 92 02:15:52 GMT
Reply-To: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <CMM.0.90.2.713924614.jrk@division.cs.columbia.edu> jrk@division.cs.columbia.edu (John R. Kender) writes:
>Anyone else ever get a really wretched bloom of hair algae (the
>absolute worst kind, impossible to remove even mechanically, that even
>snails won't touch) after adding trace elements? 
>
>John


Just for grins, what kind of trace elements were you using and what
concentration did you work up to when the bloom took off.


gary
`
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ferrer@rtsg.mot.com (Arnold S. Ferrer)
Subject: [F][W] Heater,themometer, and lighting questions.
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:05:38 GMT

I know this kind of question has been asked before, but...
1) How many watts does a heater have to be for a 30 gallon tank?
   In the FAQ, it states 2.5 watts per gallon. So for a 30 that
   would be 75 watts. But in a book that I have it says 10 watts
   per 1.25 gallons, making it 240 watts for a 30 gallon. Well,
   which on is it 75 or ~240?
2) Which brand heater is good? Visi-Therm, Hagen, Otto, Supreme?
   Are these okay to get? Which one do you suggest and why?
3) Which type and brand of thermometer is the best to get for
   the aquarium?
4) I'd like to put 2 24" 20 watt flourescent tubes on top of my
   freshwater tank. Lets say I just have the lights, what else do
   I need to put the whole thing together? The hood that came with
   the 30 gallon tank only had room for 1 tube. It was one of those
   full hoods from Perfecto.

 Thanks,
  Arnold S. Ferrer
  ferrer@rtsg.mot.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: brianm@sco.com (Brian Moffet)
Subject: Re: Tiger barbs and bettas (was Re: Beginners tank..?)
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1992 15:11:54 GMT

oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>elster@cs.cornell.edu (Anne C. Elster) writes:
>>tiger barbs can be very agressive --  especially if only
>>1-3 fish are kept. I became the (un)fortunate owner of a pair...
>On the other hand, there are few more impressive sights than a school of
>tiger barbs.  By the time they get over 2 inches their black stripes are
>jet black, the fins are crimson red and the bodies are bright golden.  A

Hmm, I currently have a 10 gallon aquarium, with only 4 fish in it,
2 tiger barbs, a rainbow shark, and I assume a chinese algae eater.
I don't have any problems with the tiger barbs being too aggressive.

I can think of a couple of possible reasons:

1) the rainbow shark is fairly aggressive and chases the barbs around
    (1st fish for the tank, over 4 years old, and about 5 inches long)

2) the algae eater will hide in places the barbs can't get him, he
    is also fairly fast.

3) too little room to become territorial and aggressive?

I can imagine a school of these fish would be great, as it is right
now, my tank if an interesting mixture of orange, red, black and 
mud brown... :-)

brian moffet
--
"Face it, Chuck.  Taken as an aggregate, the human race is a stupid, sorry lot."
                           -- Jonathan Quist

brianm@sco.com  or uunet!sco!brianm                    Speaking for Myself
From: SAHRABI@auvm.american.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Diagnosis Requested
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:42:57 GMT
Organization: The American University - University Computing Center

A friend of mine has a 10g tank full of Guppies and snails and some
plants.  Recently however a few worm-like things have appeared in the
tank which we do not recognize.  They are about 3-4 milimeters long with
teeny, minute white heads.  They glide on the glass.  Are these things
harmful?  Should she be concerned?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Regards,
Sajjad Ahrabi
From: NETOPRDP@ncsuvm.cc.ncsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: afe for Freshwater tanks?
Date: 21 Aug 92 14:19:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: ncsuvm.1684A912B.NETOPRDP
Organization: North Carolina State University

Its a shame the same rules don't apply to small third world countries,but
if it did,where would all you self-righteous assholes buy the coral for your
tanks???????The fish shops in my area have large selectionson stock.Just a
thought......
david
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Jesus Christ!
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:06:44 GMT
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA

In article <71327@apple.Apple.COM> scott@Apple.COM (scott douglass) writes:
>Misc.fish here is getting to be as high volume as misc.kids!  I can't

What is misc.fish?  Is this another group I don`t get, is it new?

Brian
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Subject: Re: Snails, Particle Board Stands, Underground Filters		
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 16:21:03 GMT

In article cliff@watson.ibm.com writes:
>I came across a nice fishtank stand for a 110 gallon tank that was
>made of that compressed particle board.  The fish store sells it.
>Shall I assume that the particle board can really withstand the
>weight?	

There are several "densities" of particle board, some of which are
pretty darn strong.  If you've ever seen what happens to particle
board when it gets wet (which is fairly probable around an aquarium),
you'll understand why many people frown upon using particle board
stands.

>Again the fish store guy tells me I should have both a cannister filter
>AND an underground filter for a 110 gallon tank.  I believe from what
>people have said here that an underground filter is not necessary if
>you have a powerful cannister filter.

Did the FSG say WHY?  Unless you're willing to clean the substrate 
over a UGF religiously, a UGF can cause water quality problems as
the detritus/mulm/excrement gets trapped in the gravel.  As should 
be covered in the FAQ, canister and UGF filters have somewhat different 
functions. It's even possible that you need no filter at all, if you 
rig up some kind of continuous water change system like alice!jj et al 
have done.  Please don't think there's just one single "correct" way 
to keep a given type of fish.  I'll let the discus breeders tell you 
what they've had success with.
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 16:46:37 GMT
Subject: Re: External Pump Transfers TOO much heat. (M)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

In rec.aquaria, rivan@bnr.ca (Robert Ivan) writes:

    is 3 times.  How big is your tank ?   if its too small you wont
    be able to dissipate the heat of the pump.  Also I suspect that
    you have to throttle the quite one pump quite a bit.  Just curious.

When you throttle down a pump like a Quiet One, it actually draws less
current and doesn't generate as much heat.  Of course, we keep our discus
tanks at 82 F, so heat is no problem with us. 

------
George
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: goo@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (frank.m.macauda)
Subject: [F] Red Lobster
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Keywords: need info
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 18:32:54 GMT


 I was wondering if anyone on the net can give me some
information on a creature I saw today at a local fish     
store. They had it labelled as a fresh water Red Lobster.
It was about 6 inches long with a mottled red shell.

 Would this beast be compatible with some small African
cichlids? Where does it come from? What environmental
and dietary requirements does it have? I want one but
not at the expense of disrupting my current population
or risking it's life and $9.99.

Thanks,
Frank Macauda

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: tech@cs.ucf.edu (Tony Travaglini)
Subject: Re: Novaqua and phosphates
Organization: University of Central Florida, Orlando
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:02:21 GMT

In article <youshen.713647979@sfu.ca> youshen@fraser.sfu.ca (You-Sheng Kang) writes:
>This is regarding a thread that a netter posted a while ago in sci.aquaria.
>I was wondering is anyone could confirm this. The poster said that using
>Novaqua in the recomended dosage could lead to an increase in phosphates.
>
>By the way, I am going to use this in a freshwater aquarium.
>
>thanks,
>youshen@sfu.ca

That was me. If I may, I'll self-confirm. Testing is pretty simple;
Get some tap-water, check for phosphates, use recommended dose of
novaqua, check for phosphates. Dump novaqua and use something else.

Tony Travaglini
tech@cs.ucf.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jamesb (James Bahn)
Subject: Re: Cannister Filters
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:37:52 GMT


In article <1992Aug17.134718.19011@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>I finally got a Fluval 403 for a 110-gallon tank, primarily because it allowed
>the tank to get close to the wall in the back.
>valves supplied tend to break with extended use.  So my question is:
>How do you change the media if you don't use the cutoff valves if you don't
>want water on your floor.  The fish store owner tells me that rather than
>use the valves he pulls the tubes right out of the fishtank every time he
>wants to change media.  This, however seems inconvenient, particuarly if your
>tank back is close to the wall.  Any tips?

Definitely the best way to go.  Alternatively, you could get a couple
Ehiem hose clamps and disconnect the hoses from the input and output
tubes.  Use the Eheims because the hoses will leak otherwise, and the
Eheims are high quality stainless steel.  Regarding the stray bar, if
you think it's ugly (I don't) and you have enough movement at the
surface of your water without it, take it off.  I use it, and installed
it under the surface with the jets angled up a few degrees.  That way,
it's not noisy and it still moves alot of surface water.
From: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Gary R Pimm)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fluval Filters
Date: 14 Aug 92 02:12:44 GMT
Reply-To: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <3V0ePB1w164w@saviour.UUCP> sf@saviour.UUCP (Sam howard     ) writes:
>
>right now, I am running two Wisper 3 power filters, but those darn
>fish are going to run me broke just changing the filter pads!!!

>Sam.
>

We have a whisper 3 and a trickle filter on my wifes 55 gallon central american
cichlid tank. The whisper needs to be cleaned about every three days. What we
do is to blast the dirt off the pads with our shower massage thingy set for max
massage. The kind with a hose (think of the mess if you tried to just hold the 
pad up to the shower head :-) ). We have been using the same pads for almost six
months now. Also the shower massage is great for rincing off various aquarium
related hardware.

gary
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fish people
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:12:08 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Yep, it's a disease.  One thing I like about this hobby is the variety of folks 
involved.  Go to a fish club and you'll find medical doctors chatting with car
mechanics and both are sprouting scientific names or chemical formulas.  While
the doctor may be able to afford the latest in expensive German gadgets, it will
not make her/him a better aquarium keeper.  Most of the die hard club members are
just normal folk.  However...

One trait I've noticed in the more fanatical folks is a tollerance for slime and other
yechy things.  Its not everybody who releshes feeding black worms infested with
leaches to their fish!  I had a friend over who was horrified when I said that bucket
of decaying mess she inquired about was for growing mosquetoes.  "What!  Oh, gross".
And there are some folks which do not understand culling a batch of fry.  "You use
them as FOOD!".

            mark


In article <1992Aug12.054640.24103@Veritas.COM>, oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
> 
> elster@cs.cornell.edu (Anne C. Elster) writes:
> >1) Fish bowls -- 	- usually with gold fish 
> >2) Small FW tanks --	- popular among people that like animals,
> >3) Large FW tanks 		- As above -- especially popular among young
> >4) Marine  -- 		- professionals with strong "stick-to-it" traits
> 
> You are forgetting people with lots of tanks of all sizes, from 8 oz fry 
> bowls and plastic shoeboxes up to whatever will fit, people who dedicate 
> a room or a large closet or an entire garage or even an entire basement
> to rows and rows of tanks.  These people are mostly either marginally or 
> completely insane.  I know this from experience.
> -- 
> "... i heard the droning / in the shrine
> 	     of the sea-monkey / palace of the brine ..." -- Pixies.
> Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
> VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
> 
> 
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1992 18:38:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Tanks and Filters
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO