HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: new fish
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 21:52:12 GMT

In article <1992Aug24.163117.12382@cs.mun.ca> sarah1@garfield.cs.mun.ca (Sarah Vanasse) writes:
>I desperately need help in choosing the proper fish to add to my 20 gal. tank.
  I heartily recommend putting angel fishes in with african cichlids.
JUST KIDDING!
  If you really like nice, easy to keep fish, you can keep a couple
of schools of 6 or more fish. Try neon tetras, rasboras (one of my
faves), zebra danios, cherry barbs (much nicer than tigers). It is
really too bad you are having trouble keeping tigers, they are very
pretty. I keep 3 of 'em with neons, zebras, and rasboras for about
a year now. No problem at all. Hope this helps!
************************************************************************
"Would you believe it if you     |             MY KARMA
saw it with your own eyes?"      |           JUST RAN OVER
   Asked the woman               |            YOUR DOGMA
"That depends"                   |               -Dolly Rosicrution-
    Replied I                    |	
***********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: A Goldfish Story [or Ignorance is Bliss?] and GIFs?
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 23:11:12 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <26107@dog.ee.lbl.gov> TWChan@lbl.gov (Terry Chan) writes:
>In light of some of the talk on goldfish, it reminded me of how my
>father kept goldfish 17 years ago and was a wonder (at least to me) 
>of how robust they can be.
>...

Common single tailed goldfish with slender bodies such as comets are
quite hardy.

Fancy goldfish are much less hardy.  Both types can live to be about
20 years old but 8 is much more common.  Most die much sooner from
poor living conditions and poor care.  Over feeding is a common cause
of death.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com
From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re:  Painted Glass Fish
Date: 13 Sep 92 12:29:13 GMT
Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand

In article <BuECIK.B9L@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>wong@fraser.sfu.ca (Sam S. Wong) writes:
>>Anyhow, since there is no law against selling Painted Glass fish, I don't
>>think anyone has the right to harass pet shops that sell them. 
>
>Well, *I* wouldn't harrass them, but I think everybody has the right to protest
>any legal action (like selling painted glass fish) that they find objectionable.
>This might include boycott, picketting, or other peaceful demonstration.

  I'm quite a fan of "girlcotting" - i.e. positively buying products, services,
  or from a shop that does deserve approval, and telling them why, and then
  telling my friends what, where and why.  To my utter amazement the McDonalds
  I visited out of town the other day has made no provision for recycling.

  I quietly mentioned McD's in my home town has arranged such things.
  While I don't doubt they're well aware of that, if I don't tell them that's
  what I expect from a responsible, long-term thinking company then they don't
  know what standards I, as a consumer, expect.

  On a more aquatic base, I buy from a fish shop out of town simply because
  their fish are well looked after - in fact it's difficult to tell the 
  "For Sale" fish from the owner's private collection which are also there
  on display.  It's about an hours drive each way.  Never seen a painted
  Glass Fish there ever...   =:)
--                                                . 
                                   ,' ,,'',''',,  )\   '',' ',,,''   ,,  
 ............................................,,,,/,,\,          ,     
 great whites need loving too!      '',,,''  , ' '  ',,,''  ,
 lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz    lynx@amigans.gen.nz
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7335 alt.aquaria:4977
From: hort@ui2.ems.cdc.com (Mark Hortman)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R]   Lights
Date: 14 Sep 92 19:25:20 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Empros Systems International, a division of Control Data

Well my $.02 is that I just moved to MN, and have called every where in the
Twin Cities looking for VHO lights.  Most places have never heard of them
and the rest say nope we don't carry those,  So I decided to call some
mail order places, called all 4 in the FAQ and none of them have any, so
I guess I will have to go buy a FAMA or something and mail order some!

Are these lights that unpopular?
Or did I just move here at a bad time?
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F]  New Plant Tank, suggestions?
Date: 10 Sep 92 04:13:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology


  I am working on plans for a 75 gallon plant tank and would like to run
it by the net before I actually decide on the specifics.

Proposed Tank:
   75g Oceanic Glass tank, no "hood"
   DIY W/D with 4 gallons of bio media, plus carbon/peat/whatever  
   4X40 watt flour lights, includes 2 Vitalites, 1 GroLux, and 1 Triton
   2 or 3 75 watt(?)  Incand grow lights (for spot lighting and Swords)
   Laterite gravel supplements, 4 inches of gravel 
   4 to 6 Keyhole Cichlids
   small school of tetras
   small school of "corys" 

I have a few questions, first being CO2 injections.  Exactly how necessary
is this with the above fish, and decent flow rate through the W/D (400gph?),
and hard/alkaline tap water (ph 7.8, pretty hard water)?  

Second question, carbon/peat/whatever.  I think I will need to use peat
to keep the pH down, but I want it to stay at about 7.0.  Is peat the
easiest way to do it?  What forms of chemical filtration should I use?

Third question, filtration.  If I already have the W/D, will it hurt to use
it?  


Thank you very much for any help.

Jon  




Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Subject: Re: Electric  cats?
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Reply-To: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 15:54:45 GMT

In article 14882@cbnewsh.cb.att.com, shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine) writes:
>In article mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman) writes:
>>And even for me, a known aficianado of fish that are less than 
>> glamorous-looking
>>(still working on that tank of black-chinned tilapias, albino 
>> cynolebias whitei
>>and aphyosemion franzwerneri) they're just a bit *too* ugly to consider for
>>a tank. Brown cigars with beady little eyes that are dangerous. Uggh.
>
>Why does the term "butt-ugly" leap to mind?
>
>:-)
>
>-- 
>Steve Shine
>AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
>att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
>My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.

All right! We have a thread on the UGLIEST FISH CONTEST! My vote goes for the
South American killifish Cynolebias Wolterstorfii! It looks like it needs a 
serious coat of Retin-A on its body. Uggh, only a mother (or Mr. Wolterstorf)
could love the fish. It's eggs are more expensive than caviar -- for only $8, I know
a guy in Czechoslovakia who would be glad to sell you the living eggs. :-)

KC
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F][P] Any plants in a true Amazonian tank?
Date: 11 Sep 92 21:46:27 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky) writes:
>I wonder what vegie
>eating fish feed on during non-flood periods when they can't get into
>the flooded forest to graze on plants 'n stuff.

Large herbivorous fish eat fruit and leaves that fall in or brush in from 
the tree branches.  Small haracins are primarily omnivores, insectivores
and carnivors, so they live on insects and insect larvae as well as whatever
they happen to catch.  Killies live in the shallow, still waters and eat bugs,
micro-crustacians and worms.  Corys eat insect larvae and micro-crustacians
and occasional worms.  

The well-known herbivores like small plecos and Co. live in shallow streams
where there is a lot of algae encrusting the rocks and their larger brethern
gnaw on immersed roots and the like in the deeper waters.
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold)
Subject: Re: [F]  New Plant Tank, suggestions?
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 19:46:48 GMT

In article <67926@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards ) writes:
>
>  I am working on plans for a 75 gallon plant tank and would like to run
>it by the net before I actually decide on the specifics.
>
>Third question, filtration.  If I already have the W/D, will it hurt to use
>it?  

I saw a couple of responses to this, and thought I'd add my $0.02.
The "trickle" part of the wet/dry will probably dissipate CO2,
though there's some question about how much as compared to other
water movement in the tank.  Add to this the fact that a heavily
planted tank probably won't need much additional bio-filtration
anyway (assuming your stocking rate is low enough, which it needs
to be to keep the algae down).  Combined, there doesn't seem
to be much point in a "trickle" filter.  _But_, sumps are
pretty useful beasts...they keep the water level in the tank
constant, provide a place for fans if you want to cool the
tank, etc.  In addition, I used to have trouble with surface
scum in my plant tank, which a wet/dry surface skimmer eliminates
nicely.

So..in brief..keep the wet/dry, but get rid of the trickle part:
pipe the water straight into the sump.  That gives you, IMHO,
all the benefits and minimizes the most obvious disadvantage
(CO2 dissipation).


-- 

James Harold                 "There is always an easy solution to
harold@wam.umd.edu            every human problem -- neat, plausible,
                              and wrong."    --  H. L. Mencken
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: More licensing Q's
From: satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 8 Sep 92 14:22:48 -0500
Distribution: usa
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

In article <1992Sep8.102803.27220@cbnews.cb.att.com>, wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett) writes:
>     In article <1992Sep7.132040.12609@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>,
>     satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu writes:
>     > ...
>     > I have another question....  What do ya'll think about having some
>     > type of certification?  I mean, we make one and try to get it to fly,
>     > so to speak.
> 
>     Hmmm.  Do you mean a standards group that hands out recommendations,
>     sorta' like CONSUMER REPORTS?  If so, then sure, go for it.  But if you
>     mean something like trying to get a congress-critter to introduce
>     legislation of some sort, then I cannot support the idea.
> 
>        IF
>           Information is distributed and compliance is voluntary
>        THEN
>           proceed;
>        IF
>           Any level of government or the legal system is involved
>        THEN
>           exit immediately;
> 
>     Just my two cents' worth ...   -- Keith

Yeah, I agree.  I was thinking of something along the lines of a voluntary
oragnization.  Kin of like what Kodak did w/ "The Times of Your Life" 
Campaign.  If you see the sticker in the shop's window, then you know that they
follow certain criteria -- that's the only way to get the sticker and you get
checked on everything so often.......

What would be the qualifications that should be included in such an idea?


-- 
Anne Kaelber satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Miami University
Oxford, Ohio
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shane@psych.psy.uq.oz.au (Shane Brown)
Subject: Re: Licensing/Certification
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: University of Queensland. Oz.
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 02:52:22 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.174930.12553@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>,
satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu wrote:
> 

<snippety>

>    
>       The reason I am concerned, is that two months ago, I walked
>  into a store and decided that I was finally ready to set up a
>  tank.  Knowing nothing about fish, I asked for a 10 -gallon set
>  up and three days later had a tank of fish.  How do I, the
>  unsuspecting, naive consumer, know if their fish are 1) healthy,
>  and 2) ???? What tells me that I can trust these people?  How can
>  they (the dealers) know if the fish they recieve are healthy and
>  etc.?  

G'Day Anne,
Unfortunately, only your satisfaction with a particular stores' 
fish, products, service or advice over a decent period of time will
tell you whether your trust is misplaced or not. Arming yourself
with knowledge gleaned from this newsgroup, books, magazines or
fish clubs is probably the best thing you can do.

>   
>      I'd like to do a 55 gallon set-up with irredescent sharks,
>  bala sharks, columbian sharks, black ghosts, angel fish, and
>  pictus cats.  But, are they telling me the right things, for the
>  safety of my fish --and me?  Or are they telling me what it takes
>  to get the sale?  Those sharks start at $4 here.  That's the most
>  expensive one in my little tank (no big loss?).  But, to fill a
>  tank with $4 to $8 fish, I'd like to be able to trust someone to
>  know what they're doing.
>
   
I'm not familiar with the trade names "Irridescent" or "Columbian",
with regards to so called fresh water sharks. I have a red-tailed
shark and a rainbow (or red-fin) shark in a 55 gallon (200 litre) tank.
Sorry, but my reference is at home, so no species names as yet. 
I will have to get rid of one of these dudes real soon. The slightly
smaller red-tailed shark is chased mercilessly by the rainbow shark,
to the point where it is unable to feed. This is in a tank with many 
rocks, plants, pieces of driftwood, and other fish. Rainbow sharks 
become aggressive toward other rainbow sharks as they mature, and
I guess that my red-tailed shark is just too similar in appearance
to escape the rainbow sharks' wrath.
      Interestingly, I originally wanted to buy a rainbow shark and
a silver shark (bala shark), but the guy in the fish shop thought
that the silver shark would victimize the other eventually, given
it's potential to get BIG. He suggested a red-tailed shark
as an alternative to the silver shark, saying that he had kept
this combination without problems. I'm not saying that he fibbed, but
my experience didn't correspond well with his. Anyway I paid my
money, and I took my chance 8).

Cheers , Shane.

~--------  (o  ) (o  )      ( o ) ( o )      (  o) (  o)  -------~
 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: thester@nyx.cs.du.edu (Uncle Fester)
Subject: Re: What about Ammonia-Rid Bags (was Re: Activated Carbon
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 92 00:25:57 GMT


The only reason that I can think of that supports the use of activated
carbon, is if you have your aquarium in an area where cigarets are smoked.
Second hand smoke is definitely NOT good for fish.

Uncle Fester

--
:  Master,                        :       Uncle Fester       : Printed  :
:    Me and Rex took the kar      :   thester@nyx.cs.du.edu  : on 100%  :
:    to town. Stay home. Stay!    :         -or try-         :recyclable:
:       Ha ha ha ha.   The dog.   :    T.HESTER4 on GEnie    : phosphor :
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: Does grounding the sump work?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 16:18:06 GMT

sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu writes:
>In article <1992Sep8.222609.8559@cs.ucla.edu>, jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg) writes:
>> I'm a little confused.  Why isn't the voltage at or near 0 volts?  I am 
>> assuming you have an electrode that is directly wired to the ground screw
>> in your outlet.
>I guess my explanation was poor.  The voltage measured in each case done by
>putting a volt meter in the circut between the electrode and the ground screw. 
>this in effect measured the voltage traveling between the tank/sump and the
>ground via the electrode.  Hope this clarifies things.

Actually, you have reasserted what you said before, and I am still a little 
confused.  This is what I understand you to be saying:

You have an electrode in your water connected directly to a ground screw.  
Thus, there is a direct wire connection between your electrode and ground 
(very low resistance).  Now, you take a voltmeter, and place one probe on the 
electrode in the water, and the other proble on the ground screw.  Then you
measure more than 70 volts.  

If my understanding is correct, then you apparently have a problem.  It looks
like your grounding electrode isn't doing anything.  Are you measuring DC
voltage?  You should be measuring AC voltage.  

Anyway, if your grounding circuit is working properly, it would have
to be conducting a hell of a lot of current to maintain more than 70 volts
of potential over a low resistance circuit such as a wire....

-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Painted Glass Fish
From: satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 7 Sep 92 13:27:13 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

Here's something to make you all groan....

I stopped in a store to let them know I was checking to see if they were
*STILL* selling the Painted Glass fish.  They were.  So, I asked for the
address of their boss.  They are a franchise.

This person told me that 1) they *AREN'T* being injected with the dye, they are
painted.  And 2) that if I really wanted to get something done I was in the
wrong place, I should go to the wholesalers.  I asked who their wholesaler was
-- she didn't know.


She said that whether or not they quit selling them, there wuld still be
dealers.  I wasn't very good in economics, but supply and demand says that if
demand goes down, the supply will, too.


Comments?

-- 
Anne Kaelber satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Miami University
Oxford, Ohio
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Scats, Chemi-Pure, Reeforms, Plants
Organization: BNR, Inc. Research Triangle Park, NC
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 20:57:56 GMT

In article <1992Sep15.170229.20018@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:

>1. Can anyone tell me about Scats?  Can they live in a community tank?  Can
>they live with angelfish?  Do they get large?

Scats are brackish water fish.  You probably don't want to mix them with 
angelfish.

>2. I notice that the label on Chemi-Pure (filter media) tells about how
>well it keeps the pH neutral.  What do people do if they use Chemi-Pure
>but don't want the pH at 7.0?  Can it be used at other pH's?

I generally avoid chemicals, and I don't know anything about Chemi=Pure,
but if they tell you it keeps the pH neutral, they are probably using 
chemicals to stabilize pH at 7.0.

>3. Anyone have those "Reeforms" artifical corals?  Do they look nice and
>work well in a tank?

Don't know.

>4. Anyone have any tips for making plastic plants look more lifelike?
>(I know you'll say get live plants, but I'm curious if there are tricks
>for making the plastic one look more natural.)

I am amazed that the pet trade has not come up with better fake
plants.  Seems like there could be a good market.  I don't know about
making them look lifelike, but there are many well-known tricks to
aquarium decor.  Photography books are a good source.  The "triangle
of points of interest" theme used in photography works very well in
aquariums.  The basic idea is that there should be three main points
of interest with contrasting color/shape/texture, placed "carefully
carelessly" in the tank.

>
>Thanks, Cliff


-- 
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Not a spelling flame, was Re: Does grounding the sump work?
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 16:51:26 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.215051.11654@daffy.cs.wisc.edu>, rader@ssec.wisc.edu (Steve Rader) writes:

|> Dustin (laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu) wrote in 
|> <1992Jan24.195242.9269@cco.caltech.edu> that Albert Thiel claims that
|> grade 316 stainless steal will also work... I'll wager that Theil wrote
|> ....                ^^^^^                                   ^^^^^

Hmm, that misspelling must have been a Freudian slip.

Kevin Sullivan
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Lateral Line Erosion & Grounding
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 16:17:42 GMT

Greg Osterhout (oste@crchh79.BNR.CA) wrote:
: I have seen a new product in FAMA by Sandpoint that is supposed to ground
: the tank and cure Lateral Line erosion.  The product is called
: Sandpoints Solution Ground and the cost is ~$45.  Has anyone heard anything
: about this product?  It has a titanium tip to prevent metal corrosion.  But
: it seems to me that a bacterial slime would cover the tip and prevent the
: ground from working.  Any opinions on this.

I would think that bacterial slime would make a fine conductor.
Also, I would look into finding my own bit of salt-water-resistant
metal, and making my own ground - $45 sounds like a lot of dough
for a bit of metal and some wire, but what do I know?

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Automated water changes
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:11:24 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <23116@sybase.sybase.com> holly@sybase.com (Innocent Bystander) writes:


>I've never understood architects.  It should be obvious to everyone that
>each room in a house needs a drain and a water source.  
>Oh well.

Along with air and CO2 outlets, a computer bus, and speakers.

At least they include the electric outlets.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7311 alt.aquaria:4967
From: simone@visix.com (potatohead)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Activated Carbon (was Re: Cannister Filter Question ?????????????????)
Date: 10 Sep 92 15:03:11 GMT
Reply-To: simone@visix.com (potatohead)
Organization: Visix Software, Reston, Virginia

|> In article <1992Sep3.160309.23369@cs.ucla.edu> frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
|> ...
|> We have about 10 aquaria, none of which have activated carbon in
|> them.  Whatever else can be said about activated carbon, it is
|> not a "must" for a freshwater aquarium.
|> 

	it can be useful for removing medication from a tank...no?!
	-simone
From: gentner@wiesental.Eng.Sun.COM (Don Gentner)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Raccoon visitors
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:18:23 GMT
Reply-To: gentner@wiesental.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: wiesental

I have a small outdoor pool with some goldfish and a koi.  Recently some raccoons
have acquired a taste for the fish in my pond.  I currently have the pond covered
with hardware cloth, but that looks ugly and ruins my interaction with the fish.
Any ideas for how to keep the raccoons at bay short of termination with extreme
prejudice?

Thanks.
Don Gentner
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria