HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke) writes:
>The order of sentences in the following article was rearanged ...
>
>In article <1jptotINNcls@cronkite.cisco.com>, echi@cisco.com (Eric P. Chi) writes:
>|> I plan to setup some equipments to build some bookshelf kind thing
>|> for my study room and garage. I am wondering whether I should buy a table
>|> saw or radial saw? Or do I really need those fancy equipments? 
>|> Also if is there brand/model you can recommend? My budget is ~$500.
>
>Your budget of $500 is too low to invest in a table saw at this time.  If
>you are just starting out, you need other basic tools that you won't be
>able to purchase if you buy an 'ok' saw.

   Oops!  I have to disagree with this.  You can probably pick up an old
   Sears Craftsman saw for $100 - $150.   Check the want-ads.  

   Also, $300 will buy you a taiwanese knock off of the smaller delta 
   saws.   You might also consider a bench-top saw.  My uncle bought a
   new "Master Machinery" bench top a couple of years ago for around 
   $150 and has made some very nice furniture with it.

>
>I wouldn't get ANYTHING until I bought "Safety Glasses" AND hearing 
>protection.  Yes, you can't DO or BUILD anything with them, but they can
>save your sight or hearing ( circular saws are loud ).

   Yes.
>
>Buy a cordless drill (Panasonic, Bosch etc.) for about $130-150.  This
>should be able to run slowly so that you can also use it to drive screws.
>There are driver bits available that will let you use deck or drywall
>screws such as are commonly available in hardware stores.  It will also
>be useful for drilling holes .... And you DO NOT NEED a gigantic 150
>piece machinist combination drill bit kit.  Buy the bits as you need
>them, but get 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 inch bits to start.  Ask here for model types
>that people like ( I have a drywall screw gun, and a plug-in drill ).
 
   Actually, I would not buy a cordless first, but rather, a corded drill.
   They come in very handy, and you can get them cheap.

   Also, look in the newspaper for your local flea markets.  Here in the
   Silicon Valley, there is an excellent flea market in San Jose every 
   week, and the first Saturday of every month De Anza College in Cupertino
   holds a big flea market, and there are always lots of hand tool and
   smaller power tools for sale.   I have gottem Makita Driver Drills 
   (cordless) etc., for 10 - 20 % what you would pay retail.
   

As you can tell from my message, I think you should seriously explore 
the used tool market, as you can get quite a bit for your money.

Later, when you begin to define the limits of your equipment, and IF your
interest in woodworking expands, you can sell and trade up to newer or
better equipment, without losing a lot of money.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 11:08:33 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills

Greetings!

Greg T. writes:

>I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
>going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both
>handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.

Hmm...I think the wisdom of going to 12v is an increase in torque, if I recall
correctly.  However, I recently purchased a 9.6v Bosch which will drive a 3"
drywall screw into a treated 2x4.  I don't know how _many_ it will drive
before having to recharge or switch batteries, but this was actually one of
the first things I did with it.  If you're really into 12v, though, they can
be had (Skil makes one) for prices comparable to many 9.6v drills.  Other
things to consider:

1) Get a drill that comes with two batteries, or figure on buying an extra.
   It's really exasperating when you run out of juice in the middle of a job.
   Also, many drills come with 'quick chargers' and will charge a battery in
   as little as an hour.

2) Get a drill with a clutch if you're going to be driving screws at all.
   Most cordless models come with one, but not all do (Black and Decker's come
   to mind, but I could be mistaken about this).

3) You may want to make sure your drill is variable speed rather than multiple
   speed.  Many of the Makitas, for example, simply offer two speeds rather
   than two speed  _ranges_.  While this isn't a particularly sticky point
   with a lot of folks, some people like the extra control.

Hope this helps!

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: grina@news.fai.com (Peter Grina)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Power Hand-Planer Question (naive alert!)
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:17:42 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu America, Inc.


Does anyone have any comments regarding hand-held planers (or is it "planes"?)
that are powered with .4 or .5 hp motors?  The Sears prices range from
about $70 to $150, and the regular old-fashioned(?) planes can easily surpass
those prices.  What are the limits and capabilities of these hand-held power
planers?  

Since the cutting action appears to be very similar to the jointers, can a
hand-held power plane (fastened to a table) serve as a poor man's jointer?


				Pete Grina
From: norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drafting software for the shop
Date: 28 Jan 93 16:13:24 GMT
Distribution: usa

I have to go with Autosketch as well.  Autocad is just way to involved for
the quick drawings I need for projects.  Haven't tried Turbo Cad,  but the
price is right (Got a letter just yesterday offering TC for 39.95).  Can't
find the darn thing now,  if I do I'll post the phone # and maybe anyone
who wants the package can call and get the deal.

Norm
*******************************************************************************
norm@oliveb.OLIVETTI.COM

                 "Watch this space." -- Acme Advertising
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Anyone cut metal with a circular saw?
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:55:51 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <14340021@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com> keith@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Keith Millar) writes:
>I have this great idea that I can put a particle metal cutting blade in my 
>circular saw and cut metal pipe and box steel  and sheet steel ( <= 1/4 inch )
>
I have cut hundreds of linear feet of mild steel with my Skil 77.  I
have used up tens of blades, and learned a few things.  First, it is
possible, but I would want the highest quality saw you can afford.
You want no plastic anywhere!  The 'sparks' coming off the blade are
nearly white hot iron -- something like 2500K.  

Next, you really want to spend as much on safety equipment as you do
on the saw and blades.  Pretend you are welding inside some very loud
place.  I wear cuffless pants, leather boots, sometimes a pocketless apron, 
good leather gloves, a hat, a heavy coat, safety glasses, and my shooting ear
muffs.  Stay away from anything flammable, like grass, sawdust, oil, 
paper, and flammable fluids.  Keep a fire extinguisher handy.  What is 
cut inevitably is very hot and very sharp.

As for what its like to cut, I can cut steel roofing like it is 1/4"
plywood.  2 x 1/2 stock and 1 1/2 pipe is like a 2 x 4.  Hard 1/2 plate is
harder than 2 1/2 hard white oak, but is cuttable.  

I know I am working the saw too hard when the bevel drive becomes too
hot to hold for more than 15 seconds.   

Incedentally, I have switched to ATF in my 77 for cutting at temps
around 0 F.  As ATF is used in many modern manual transmissions as the
gear lube, I feel it is suitable.  If anybody has any FACTS about the
suitablity of ATF in this sitaution, please post.  I will likely
switch back to Skil Worm Drive Lube in the spring.  Anybody know what
is in SWDL?  It is like paste at 0 F.


-- 
	 Frank Evan Perdicaro 				Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cabinet Making Schools
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:05:48 GMT
Reply-To: pinn@cpqhou.se.hou.compaq.com
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation

In article <1993Jan25.080426.18613@nas.nasa.gov>, rangwal@wk56.nas.nasa.gov (Akil A. Rangwalla) writes:
|> In article <1993Jan19.134529.6503@shearson.com> bprisco@shearson.com writes:
|> >How do you go about finding schools that offer carpentry
|> >and/or cabinet making?
|> >
|> >I have checked the continuing education classes offered by
|> >the local high schools and came up with nothing.
|> >
|> >I'm looking for schools that are located in the Long
|> >Island area of New York.
|> >
|> >Many thanks in advance.
|> >
|> >Bobby Prisco
|> >bprisco@shearson.com
|> >
|> 
|> I have a similar request as above.  I'm looking for schools in
|> the Bay area.  If anyone knows of one, either post or email to
|> me.  Thanks.
|> 
|> Akil.
|> 
|> 
Try the classified section in magazines such as Fine WoodWorking, Woodshop News
or American Woodworker.  They often run ads for schools and clinics

Steve
From: rlz@svl.cdc.com (Robert L Zalusky)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 21 Jan 93 19:22:51 GMT

ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch) writes:

>>Personally, I would want to see the tool girl and how he keeps the 
>>cobwebs out after the sawdust gets everywhere and ...

>What is a tool girl?

>Debbie Deutsch

I didn't intend to be sexist just humorous and was making an
offhand comparison to Home Improvement and all "those calendars".
--
The opinions expressed are my own.  Computing Devices International(CDI)
is not responsible or knowledgable about them.

Bob Zalusky
Internet:               rlz@svl.cdc.com
Phone:                  (408) 496-4374
Fax:                    (408) 496-4106
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jrm@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.r.miller)
Subject: Re: Panel Saw
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:55:39 GMT

In article <b0Dk02Nz32Uz01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, jaz00@diag.amdahl.com (Joe Zuk) writes:
> After spending alot of extra time doing bad cuts on plywood I am looking   
> for a panel saw. I saw in the February issue of Wood that Penn State       
> Industries has something that will do the job. From the picture it looks   
> like you clamp you circular saw in to a tray and the tray rides on an      
> 'L' fence.  You clamp the 'L' Fence on to the board that you are cutting.  
> It comes with two fences (64 in and 108 in). The cost is $89 plus $10      
> for UPS.                                                                   
>                                                                            
> What I'd like to know is:                                                  
> Has anyone used one of these?                                              
> Is it worth $89?                                                           
> Has anyone ordered anything from Penn State? Has anyone had problems with  
> this outfit?                                                               
>                                                                           
> Thanks,                                                                    
> Joe

Joe, and others. I bought the Penn State rig last December because I needed
a poor man's panel saw for a kitchen cabinet job. Much to my delight, the
product does exactly as they claim. It is well built, sturdy and performs
well. The only drawback is the setup time. You have to place the angle iron
(actually ALUM) on the plywood and clamp it down. A real panel saw would be
faster. I bought a zillion tooth carbide blade for my saw and I get nice,
straight clean cuts in my Oak veener plywood - first time, everytime.

I have no relationship with Penn State beyond that of a satisfied customer.
They are good people to work with and have always given me a lot of attention.



				John Miller
				Columbus, OH
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: hardwood floor repair
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 02:07:00 GMT

In article <C1A178.G92@ra.nrl.navy.mil> <Healy@space50.nrl.navy.mil> writes:
>In article <1993Jan22.010500.17955@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
>> 
>> Now put the tongue of the new board in place, and drop the other end down.
>> You might want to glue this board in; otherwise, use finishing nails,
>> countersink them, and fill the holes.
>> 
>> Before cutting, make *absolutely sure* that there is a subfloor (cause
>> that's all that will hold this thing together. One of my rooms is carpeted
>> because there's a broken board in the middle and there's no subfloor.
>> 
>
>Why is subflooring necessary?  Can't one nail it to the joists like
>the original board?  Basically I don't see the difference between 
>the original board and the replacement except the latter is missing
>the bottom of the groove, and it doesn't seem like subflooring would
>make any difference.  Or am I missing something?

The tongue & groove method locks one board to another to form a basically
solid mass. One board cannot bend without its neighbors also bending. Now,
if you remove the bottom piece of the groove in the new board, there's
nothing below the tongue in the old one next to it to keep it from moving
downwards - except the subfloor. If you don't have a subfloor, 3/4 inch
oak can bend as much as 1/8" in between 16" joists with a small man (me,
for example) on it. A heavy person can crack it. And, believe me, 1/8"
is enough to make you very nervous about stepping there.

If you want to see how this feels, take a piece of 1xwhatever and lay it
across two 2xwhatevers and step on it.

Anyway, it shouldn't be a problem. The only place I have seen flooring
put down without a subfloor is attic or dormer bedrooms.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Alpha test version - Too buggy to be released.
                    | Beta test version - Still too buggy to be released.
George Patterson -  | Release 1.0 - Alternate pronunciation of beta
                    |   test version.
                    |                            The Dumpty Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: fresh spalded sugar maple -- turn green, or dry first??
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 02:30:05 GMT

In article <C1E241.GDq@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
bruce@uxc.cso.uiuc.edu (Bruce Krueger) writes:
 
>ok, the postings on lathes and the extensive speculation re the unknown
>shoulda-been-maple got me to wondrin'...
>
>I've got a pile (rough guess, 5-800 lbs.) of five green sections of a
 
>                               I'm wondering whether to let the wood
>dry first (for how many years/decades), and if so, should I paint/wax/
>varnish the ends to prevent, or at least retard, checking, or isn't this
>as much of a problem with sugar maple sections as it would be with some
>of the other hardwoods I have experience with (oak, hickory,...)??
>
I got some green locust when the Valentines ice storm a couple
of years back claimed a neighbor's tree.  I turned about a dozen
10-12" blanks immediately and saved several 6' long logs for later.
I'm no expert on the lathe, and my taste runs toward the clunky...
my bowls had wall thicknesses of about 1/2".  Two years later, they
are no longer round.  A few months ago, I chopped one of my logs
into blanks and found them riddled with very fine cracks.  Five
tries on the lathe and nothing to show for it but shavings and
shattered, partially turned bowls.  If it was me, I would turn
them green.
 
..Richard E+17
From: richard@tis.com (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Clamps for a workbench
Date: 25 Jan 1993 17:55:43 GMT
Organization: Trusted Information Systems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: sol.tis.com

In article <C1F5tp.3CD@world.std.com> rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:
>In article <WOODWORK%93012509522987@IPFWVM.BITNET> Bob Pelcovits
><PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>
>>What kind of clamps do people recommend for clamping large pieces to a
>>workbench so that the long side is free for sanding or shaping?  I know
>>about the "double" clamps that hold a workpiece and clamp to the bench,
>>but they will grab the long side of a rectangular piece. I want, for
>>example, to be able to rout a rabbet on the long side and have the edge
>>guide of my router ride along unobstructed. Thanks,
>
>     I use one of two methods for this.  Most typically, I use one of the
>foam pads.  Most times, this holds the wood sufficiently for work with a
>router, sander, etc.  If I need a firmer grip, I use the bench dogs.
>
>

	I find that a simple "C" clamp works just fine... One end is
clamped where it meets the bench, the other end is held by the fence of
my RAS (backs up against it), but you could certainly just clamp both ends.
Just remember to put a piece of scrap between the top side of the clamp
and the work, or you'll end up with an "O" shaped spot where the clamp
bites down... I use just this setup to belt-sand, rout, etc...

	Bad ascii picture: (top view)


					ffffffffffffffffffff
               ----------------------------------
               |                                |
               |                                |
               |                                |
               |C                               |
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbC................................|bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
              C|                                | 
               |                                |
               ----------------------------------

	Where "f" is the fence of my RAS,
	"b" is the edge of the bench,
	"C" is the C clamp, at an angle...



-----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
 Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
 LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
 It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
 richard@tis.com				those of my company...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sniping thread, please???
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:54:25 GMT
Reply-To: boykin@gte.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: GTE Laboratories

In article <HOLLEN.93Jan18075054@peg.megatek.UUCP>, hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
|> Well, as invariably happens, just when I think I don't need some
|> thread, a couple of weeks later, I do.  I just bought a thickness
|> planer and now I need the thread which explains how to minimize
|> sniping.  I have adjusted in/outfeed tables very carefully and the
|> cutterhead height from left to right and all that, but still get about
|> 2 1/2" of snipe on the end of a 2' board (the only size I had
|> available to try to plane).

Relatively speaking, I think adjustment of the in/out-feed tables is a
small part of end-snipe.  Sniping occurs at the beginning or end of a
board when the board is not being controlled by the rollers before &
after the cutter head.  For the planer you have, with relatively small
in/out-feed tables, almost any size board will snipe unless you use use
additional supports.

I have a Grizzly 15" planer with fairly large tables (about 2' of support
on each end).  I've played around and don't get any sniping for boards
that stay completely on the table (roughly 2' long).  Anything past that
and you need to be careful and add extra supports.

Making sure those extra supports are level is harder than keeping the
planer's tables level, but well worth every minute it takes (unless you
like loosing  the first/last foot of every board you plane!)

jb
From: pileiro@SATURN.GLASSBORO.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: ROUTER TABLES
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:59:19 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU


        I am presently considering building a router table for my small shop.
I will be using it for general routing and shaping as well as raised panels for
cabinet work.  Has anybody had good results with any particular make or model
of router.  I want one that it variable speed and of course can handle some
heavy duty use.

                                Thanks,

                                Frank Pileiro
pileiro@saturn.glassboro.edu
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 17:38:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

/ hpcc01:rec.woodworking / biggersc@memstvx1.memst.edu / 10:42 pm  Jan 25, 1993 /
>
>The extension cord wire sounds inexpensive and may be the best answer,
>but DELTA has come up with a solution, also!  I think it is new, at least
>I had not seen it before in DELTA's catalog, etc.
>
>DELTA has come up with a solution to the switch, a solution to their
>safety guard, and several other solutions.  The brochure I saw shows
>that they are now producing a safety guard which is attached to the right

   This is the "Uniguard".

   It is a nice solution.   

   I think the cost is in the hundreds, as in at least 1 and maybe 
   several.
From: edman@cgl.ucsf.edu (Jeff Edman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Pipe clamp pipe summary?
Date: 28 Jan 93 19:30:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Univ. of Calif. San Francisco
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A78D74F70A010E76@edman-mac1.ucsf.edu>
X-Xxdate: Thu, 28 Jan 93 11:33:11 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13

I recall seeing a discussion (or several) on the use of black  vs
galvanized vs aluminum
3/4" pipe for clamps. After pricing black pipe last weekend ($10/5 ft;
threaded), I concluded
that there must be something cheaper.

Does anyone have or wish to summarize the pipe clamp pipe discussion?

Thanks.
From: stuarts@jeeves.ucdavis.edu (Stuart Staniford-Chen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Date: 22 Jan 93 19:32:06 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1993Jan19.194623.25188@kodak.kodak.com>  
kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:
> 
> 
> Anyone ever used a forstner bit in a hand held electric drill?
> What were the results like? 
> 
> I need to drill a 1 3/8" hole for a clock movement (a mini clock
> from Clockit).  I am willing to spend $20 for a forstner bit
> but not $300 for a drill press.  If I buy the bit, will it even
> be useable?
> 
> Dave KRoth
> kroth@kodak.com

I've used a 1" Forstner bit in a regular 3/8" electric drill on a number  
of occasions.  It works ok.  You have to press pretty hard to get it to  
cut, but it leaves a smooth hole.  I haven't had noticeable problems with  
the bit wandering, but my drill has one of those little spirit levels on  
it and I make some effort to keep the cut going straight with that.  I  
would guess that with a 1 3/8" bit it will work, but you had best be  
prepared to clamp the work to a low surface and lean on the drill pretty  
hard.  May not be good for the drill's bearings.  If you have a hand-brace  
that will likely work a lot better.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stuart Staniford-Chen		:  stuarts@jeeves.ucdavis.edu
Department of Physics		:  NeXT-Mail cheerfully accepted.
UC Davis, CA 95616, USA.	:  regular email is fine too.