HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: RYLV80@waccvm.corp.mot.com (William Mohrman)
Subject: Re: ANOTHER Blanket Question
Organization: Motorola
Date: 6 Nov 1992 12:17:26 MST

  I bought my horse Kai a new heavy duty winter blanket. It
  is a Big D brand blanket (size 80).  I tried it on him and
  it fit him in the front (it's a closed front) but his
  butt could have been 3 times the size to fill out the
  back (I should be so lucky when I buy myself jeans!).
  Are Big D blankets typically meant for Quarter Horses or
  do they just run alittle big?  Is it worth trying a 76"
  or 78" ?  I've never had any trouble in buying him~r
  blankets before; I just order a 78" or 80" a I can
  be pretty sure it will fit. Anyone know anythng about
  the Big D blankets I don't?

We have a Big D and it is a great blanket.  To get the
correct size, you need to measure from the center of the
chest, around the horses side, to the center of the tail.
I suspect that either the blanket is too big and you need
a smaller size or your horse is non typical and you need to
try another type of blanket. (Adjustable fitting type)

----------------------------------------------------------
Bill Mohrman
Motorola SPS
Columbus, OH
----------------------------------------------------------
From: deblev@nimoy.ipac.caltech.edu (Debbie Levine)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Full Bridles--A Question
Date: 11 Nov 1992 22:38:45 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology
NNTP-Posting-Host: nimoy.ipac.caltech.edu

In article <1992Nov11.200941.15789@sol.ctr.columbia.edu> lbm@avs.com (Linda B. Merims) writes:
>...
>I'm curious--how many of you dressage folks ride in a full bridle?
>(You know--separate curb and snaffle bits, medium to long shank
>on the curb, two reins, etc.)  If not, why not?  Are there rules
>about bitting and bridles in dressage?
>

Yes!  There are very definite rules about bitting and bridles!
It basically boils down to mandatory use of a plain snaffle at
the lower levels and mandatory use of a double at the upper levels.
There is an overlap at 3rd level (I think, someone correct me if
I am wrong) when the rider has the option of using whichever
bitting they prefer.  By the way, both the bridoon and curb
mouthpieces in a dressage double are genearlly quite thick
and light compared to the saddleseat doubles I have seen, and
the curb shanks are quite short.  Leather curb chains are 
fairly common.

The basic philosophy is supposed to be that a snaffle is the 
appropriate bitting for a horse which is still in the earlier
stages of training, up until the point where a rather high degree
of collection is required.  The horse is supposed to be sufficiently
obedient that the curb is not required for control, but is only added
when a great degree of finesse is required.

What people actually do in training varies, of course.  Some Grand
Prix riders always school in the snaffle and use the double only on
occasion to "sharpen up" between shows.  Other riders use the double
practically from day 1, and I've heard people claim they only hope
the horse "won't figure out there are no brakes" until their lower-level
test is over!  

I, personally, have never shown at a level where a double was required
(or even a allowed!) but I have used one occasionally for schooling.
I've found it to be very useful with horses that we would like
to able to work on a snaffle alone, but which occasionally get 
carried away and ignore the snaffle, during a re-schooling period.
The object there is to be able to go back to the snaffle alone --
the double is only temporary "emergency brakes".  In the same vein,
I've used a double galloping horses which are apt to get very strong
and have experimented with it on horses which get strong jumping.
I feel much more comfortable with a double bridle, where I can
completely seperate the snaffle and curb actions if I want to, or
combine them to whatever degree seems to work, than I do with a pelham
(though some horses seem to like the pelhams just fine!) 
I have to admit that I probably do not know how to use the double
with a great deal of subtlety, as one would for upper level dressage. 
Some day, I hope to!

Debbie
deblev@ipac.caltech.edu
From: deblev@nimoy.ipac.caltech.edu (Debbie Levine)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Pulls like a train!
Date: 9 Nov 1992 23:02:55 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology
NNTP-Posting-Host: nimoy.ipac.caltech.edu

In article <5450087@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> juliec@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Julie Chapman) writes:
>...
> 3. By "big, swinging half halts" I mean that I take the outside rein from
>    light contact to strong contact, then give it back immediately (while
>    keeping leg on).
>
> It's just that he becomes VERY sensitive to the leg after one or two canter
> departs, and then thinks any leg pressure (such as to establish a bend) means
> he should canter, or at least speed up his trot :-). This is what I mean by
> "the longer I ride him, the hotter he gets." - his leg sensitivity increases,
> and he's harder to collect/keep between my leg and hand. He gets very much
> forward of the bridle.

You also said you only ride 2-3 days a week -- what kind of exercise does
Copper get in between?  Have you tried loungeing before you ride?

I wonder from your description if you aren't UNDERriding with your
hand!  You don't want to hang on so tight you get into a pulling
match with him, but you should keep the contact in your half-halt 
until you get a response -- THEN give.  If you are dropping the
intensity of the contact immediately, he may not understand/may
be taking advantage.  He may also be one of these horses that 
goes best on very steady, relatively firm contact.  

What do you do when he speeds up as you ask for a bend?  It is OK to
take a hold of his mouth and tell him that speeding up is not what
you want, while you continue to ask for the bend with your leg. 
Running through your hand is an evasion you should not allow.  If 
you are fairly sure his teeth and back are OK and his equipment
fits right, and you think he is being disobedient, you might want
to consider stopping him in his tracks when he grabs a hold of you.
It isn't pretty or graceful, but you might be able to put a 
permanent stop to the problem in two or three repititions.
However, if his behavior stems from nervousness rather than
boisterousness, this approach is more likely to make him
crazy than better.

You don't want "put him in a box so he's crazy to get out" as one
poster said, but you do need to be firm.  Just make sure you DO relax
when he gives to your hand and softens and slows. 

What happens if you spend your whole ride on a long (not loose)
rein?  What's your warmup routine like?  What happens if you go
back to warmup exercises after cantering?a

Good luck!
Debbie
deblev@ipac.caltech.edu
From: cvadrbha@vmsb.is.csupomona.edu
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Hoof-care-product...
Date: 10 Nov 92 02:16:08 GMT
Organization: California State Polytechnic University, Pomona
Nntp-Posting-User: cvadrbha

Try Absorbine Hoofflex
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: amo@cbnews.cb.att.com (arlene.m.osborne)
Subject: FATT IS GONE
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:56:52 GMT
Keywords: Fjord


Twenty-nine years ago, I bought a Norwegian Fjord pony stallion.
He was 2 years old.  I kept him a stallion and he proved to be a
terrific guy -- always well behaved, never bit or kicked, never
sick a day in his life, although he choked twice.  He never even
dirtied his stall!

Friday, his body sabotaged him when a lipoma strangled his gut,
regretably causing us to mercifully put him to sleep.  He was 31,
just a month short of his 32nd birthday.  He is buried in his paddock
where he liked to stand in the sun and sleep on sunny mornings.
After the burial, my husband nodded acceptance to me if I agreed the
grave looked okay.  I concurred and my Arab gelding (who had been
watching us) gave a loud final whinny to his little friend.  I'd
like to think that where Fatt is now, the food is soft and the mares
are pretty.

Arlene Osborne
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: mary@cairo.watson.ibm.com (Mary McHugh)
Subject: Re: Feeding Old Horses(LONG)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 14:55:07 GMT
Reply-To: mchugh@watson.ibm.com (Mary McHugh)
Organization: IBM TJ Watson Home for Tired Hackers

In article <15240077@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM>, kyle@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Kyle
Karnosh) writes:
|> >weight at an alarming rate.  So..... I wormed him with Ivermectin
(Don't use 
|> >STRONGID-C with MSM)
|>
|> OK, I have to ask. What's the story here? I take it there is some kind
|> of interaction?

I'm posting the reply I sent e-mail to others who asked:

I attended a seminar sponsored by my vet and the Strongid-C people. 
After the Q&A period, I specifically asked my vet if she recommended
Strongid-C for Bub since we would like to make his life as comfortable
and easy as possible. She said that the Strongid-C people just recently
found out that MSM and Strongid-C used together causes a significant
increase in liver enzymes.  While there have been no specific problems
as yet identified, she feels the increase in enzymes is serious/unknown
enough to advise against using them together.  I don't think the
Strongid-C people will tell you not to use them together, only that
there was an increase in the enzymes.  Since the seminar was held late
summer, I don't think they have had enough time to study this further.

Of course, the younger the horse, the more concern there is about the
long-term effects.  In an older horse, it becomes a judgement call
whether the benefits of using both together outweigh the potential for
long term damage (if any).

Also, MSM was the ONLY substance that they have identified so far that
reacts with Strongid-C.

|> 
|> 
|> Glad Bub is doing well:-)
  Thanks....and Bubba thanks you!

Mary McHugh
From: GC.GGG@forsythe.stanford.edu (Gwyn Gordon)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Pulls like a train!
Date: 6 Nov 1992 13:47:33 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <5450086@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com>,
juliec@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Julie Chapman) writes:
>
> Me: 5'8", bodybuilder (so I do NOT lack for strength in any way!), runner,
> etc.
>
> Problem: Copper can get *quite* fresh and strong and forward, such that with
> big, swinging half halts there's still no checking his very fast, forward
> canter. If I could only TELL whether I'm using too much leg, not enough leg,
> too much hand, not enough hand...He will listen and collect nicely at the
> trot, and moves forward beautifully at the walk. But heaven forbid: if we've
> done a lot of transitions or any amount of canter, subsequent canters will
> become *extremely* strong - he charges off from the depart and is hard to
> make round and collected. When he is listening and working round, his mouth
> goos up nicely, and he CAN be very light...about half the time. I spend time
> on lateral work at the trot when he's being very forward. Generally, the
> longer I ride him, the hotter he gets.

I think that if a horse BUILDS throughout the ride, it's usually due
to either: 1) learned nervous tension or 2) something the rider is
doing that is slowly but surely revving the horse up. The fact that
more transitions (tr:  more rider activity) make him worse, and
taking into account your size and strength, this seems to be a
logical conclusion.

It could be that you're just over-riding. You could try
experimenting with the amount of leg it takes to get different
reactions: X=no reaction, X+1=flick of ears, X+2=faster walk,
X+3=slow trot with ears asking, "is this what she wants?"
X+4=definite trot, X+10=bolt into extended trot. This also applies
to hand, because it could be that you can use a LOT less strength
and still get the reaction you want.

Another aspect could be tension within your body, and with a
muscular body this could really affect how your horse goes. I knew
one bodybuilder who has SUCH a strong butt that horses went "YIPE"
nearly out from under her at shows (when she was nervous).  Riding
the canter (and trot) in two-point with soft hands and legs could
give your horse a break from all that strength, and you might see a
different attitude.

As a strong person, you have to learn exactly how much actual
strength you need to use (very little) and how to control your body
with the softness and finesse that will get your horse to be willing
to give in to you.

Good luck!

=gwyn

ps: I think the lateral work when he's high is a good idea, so long
as you're not forcing him into a box that makes him more crazy to
get out and RUN RUN RUN.
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: walkepl@auducadm.duc.auburn.edu (Paula Walker)
Subject: Update on sick horse
Keywords: sick horse
Organization: Auburn University
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:56:06 GMT

Thank you to everyone who posted notes to give me encouragement about
Blazer, my 22 yr. old horse with the nosebleed.  On Tuesday when the vet 
re-endoscoped him, she found a hematoma on his "ethmoid turbinates."  We 
placed him on an antihistimine to try to reduce any irritation to the area. 
Because the vet has not seen a case like Blazer's, they have requested that 
we bring him to the vet school so they can take some pictures of the 
hematoma, x-ray his head, and run some tests---all free of charge to me.  I 
am taking him to the vet school Friday morning and will post the results 
of the tests as soon as I have them.

Paula &
Blazer (Quarter/Saddlebred who couldn't care less that his nose is bleeding--
        just "give me that carrot!")
Warrior (Standardbred and charter member of the Paula Walker Geriatric Horse
         Farm)
From: GC.GGG@forsythe.stanford.edu (Gwyn Gordon)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Wrapping/linaments - do you use them?
Date: 6 Nov 1992 11:06:38 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <1992Nov5.195505.25509@cbfsb.cb.att.com>,
pfau@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (lynn.r.pfau) writes:
>Question for readers:
>
>I'm wondering what people out there do to their horses legs
>after a workout. I recently moved to a new barn - hunter/jumper,

>as well.  I come from the old school, which does a minimum - I like
>to hose legs after a workout, but thats about it.
>Everyone at the new barn is amazed that my horse is so sound
>without all this fuss.
>I am missing something - does this stuff really do something,
>or just make the owner feel better?


This is a good question. Most barns in the U.S. do a lot of
bandaging, linimenting and other such stuff; and sometimes I think
this may be largely due to the desire to do SOMETHING. Braces range
from BlueIce to Bigeloil to Absorbine to Vetrolin baths, with or
without wraps. Some seem to think that wraps have more potential
harm than potential good, eg: cirulatory problems vs. how much
support do they actually give? I personally think that a Vetrolin
bath must feel darned good after a hard workout, plus it is great
for the skin and coat. But the actual muscular/ligament affects?
Opinions vary widely. But it does make sense that after a very hard
workout or event, liniment and wraps could provide comfort and
prevent swelling.

=gwyn

ps: at the racing stable in GB, they never wrapped except actual
injuries (bows, etc.). This includes shipping -- these
million-dollar creatures hauled completely bare!!! My reaction to
this was an unqualified:

   |||||
    0 0
     |
   ( O )

  But I never saw one horse come out of the van with a scratch.


Oh yeah, and about working leg protection:

Some people like polo wraps -- I don't because I think that one
wrong pull could cause serious tendon problems and horses can't say,
"Ouch, this one's too tight." I like splint boots, preferably
leather with buckles and fairly stiff elastic, in front and
bellboots too.  If the horse gets blase' in front, openfronts work
well.  The Halfa- type waffled plastic boots are nice, and easy to
clean, but some of them are UUUU-gly!

So there's my personal preference, worth not even $0.02!!! Looking
forward to hearing others' ideas on liniments and wrapping.
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: 6042230@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: ARAB BLOODLINES (SPANISH)
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 14:13:47 GMT

Sorry, I tried to e-mail this to Denise O'Conner, but couldn't get through, so
I'll have to post.

SEANDERICH: A grey stallion, foaled in Bagdad in 1902. In 1908, he was
purched for Spanish authorities and taken to the Spanish state stud at
Jerez de la Frontera.

URSUS: Foaled in Poland in 1908 at Bialocerkiew Stud and brought to
Spain in 1912. His Sire Dagman Amirch, was bred in the desert and
imported to Poland.

Hope this helps with some of the names on your mares pedigree. I'll have
more to come.

Donna Ferreira

Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: 6175190@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: Re: RFD: rec.equestrian.racing
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 20:34:06 GMT

The question was asked:

>Are there people who would be interested in a news group on horse
>racing?

No doubt there are! IMHO, Horse Racing is often a huge waste of a beautiful
animal which often ruins their health at an early age and can border on
cruelty. Most people interested in Horse Racing are not interested in the
horses for themselves.

In other word, for my part, no thank you.
From: deblev@nimoy.ipac.caltech.edu (Debbie Levine)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: A Question...
Date: 11 Nov 1992 22:14:12 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: nimoy.ipac.caltech.edu

In article <1992Nov11.181518.23838@sequent.com> meganb@sequent.com (Megan Breninger) writes:
>...
>Hank is very smart, and after our first class at a show, he's
>got the "pattern" down...
>
>He's ahead of me...as soon as he hears the mike click, he begins
>to do the next thing in the "pattern".  I try my best to be on
>guard and not let him be ahead of me, but if he does what they
>say to do and does it well, I let it go...
>
>I have 2 choices here...either do a labotamy :*), or put cotton in
>his ears.  I school him at schooling shows, but when I school him
>for something he did right but was just ahead of me on, he get's
>upset like "That's what I did, so why are you mad at me!"  He KNOWS
>when he's done something right, and when he's done something wrong.
>He gets mad when I correct him for doing something he knows he did
>right because he can't understand that, sure it's right, I just didn't
>want you to do it just yet.

Well, I'm sure there are folks out there who will disagree with me
:-), and I'm not too much into the "horse show" thing, but for
what it is worth:

It sounds to me as if the problem is that your horse is not listening
to YOU.  He's paying more attention to the announcer.   Furthermore,
by letting him continue when he's anticipated but done what the
announcer asked, you have TRAINED him to do so!

Sure, you can put cotton in his ears -- but it may not be allowed, and
it won't really fix the problem, which is that you need to re-educate
him so that he understands that what YOU ask for is right and ANYTHING
else is wrong.

If it were my horse and I was trying to fix the problem, I'd plan on
going to a number of schooling shows -- maybe a dozen -- at which I
didn't particularly care about winning anything, and I wouldn't go 
to any shows I DID care about in the mean while.  Then I would go
into the arena and proceed to NOT do what the announcer requests, but 
insist that he do what I ask.  You would want to be careful not to 
obstruct the other riders, of course.  At first he might be puzzled
or upset, but pretty soon he would learn that he gets rewarded for
doing what you ask, and corrected for listening to the announcer.

With a horse like this, you will probably always have to be on guard
to make sure that it's you he's listening to and not anticipating.

Good luck!
Debbie
deblev@ipac.caltech.edu

Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
From: melanie@cayman.amd.com (Melanie Typaldos)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Round pens
Date: 5 Nov 92 15:23:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc., Austin, Texas

I recently bought a house on five acres out in the country.  This
is the first time that I'll be able to have my horses living with
me and I am really looking forward to it!  My question is, I was
thinking of building a round pen for exercising the horses on days
when we can't ride or just taking the edge off of them on their
spunky days.  How big should a round pen be?  I've heard that
60 feet is about right but I'm wondering if a little larger 
wouldn't provide more functionality?  Like maybe I could even 
ride in it a little.  Do I have to put in sand or something as
the substrate?  If so, then do you need a solid board or something
on the bottom to keep the sand in?  How does this affect drainage?

In case it's relevent, I have two horses.  Camp is a 14 year old,
15 hand QH who is riden mostly be my daughter who's 11.  Buzz is
a six year old, 15.3 hand QH that I mostly ride. 

Thanks for your advice!

----Melanie

Melanie (Melanie Typaldos)        melanie@cayman.amd.com  
AMD 29K Systems Engineering
From: dabay@morse.cns.vt.edu (Marian Dabay)
Newsgroups: rec.equestrian
Subject: Re: Feeding old horses
Date: 12 Nov 92 22:00:01 GMT
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA

>I am not connected to the B.T. Crump, but I've obtained the test results and
>spoken with the vet at the lab where the product was developed.  I can
>forwarded or post those results if people want them.
              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ruth,

Please do.  I have an 8 year old mare who is so skinny, I can't stand it.
I've had the vet out several times and she's done blood work, and she
says that the mare is perfectly healthy.  I've tried several different
things to put weight on her, but have had no success.  I read about
Ration Plus in one of the horse magazines, and was very interested.
From you post, it sounds as if this might be something good to try.

Thanks,
Marian Dabay