HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Honeywell Electronic Thermostat
Date: 3 Jan 93 18:09:24 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <C0ACqo.2HM@boi.hp.com>, dougl@mail.boi.hp.com (Doug Leno) writes:
> Chronotherm III is the  correct name, referring to a family of 'stats with
> Adaptive Intelligent Recovery (AIR).  There are three models and many 
> variations within each model.  These stats are also referred to as the
> "8600" family, because the model numbers are 8600, 8602, and 8621.
> 
> :  b) What did you pay for it, and where?
> 
> They are available only through authorized Heating/AC contractors, hence the
> "Trade Line" designation.  For single stage equipment, expect to pay
> (over-the-counter) around $150 for the 8600 or as high as $200 for an 8621.
> ... However, you should be able to find one [contractor]
> willingto sell the stat to you over-the-counter (no installation).

I, and several other people I know, have purchased them from plumbing
and heating supply stores, with no trouble, winks, etc.  I think I paid
~$25 less than you indicate, 1.5 years ago.

The kicker is that the installation instructions are not ``consumer-
friendly''.  That is, you're not going to find handy, step-by-step
instructions on how to figure out which wire goes where.  You're going
to have to rely on some circuit diagrams, and maybe some common sense.
My brother-not-quite-(yet?)-in-law ran into trouble installing one;
however, Honeywell's customer service line was very helpful, and talked
him through the proper setup.  In general, the simpler your situation
(i.e., heat only, no AC, no zone relays), the easier time you'll have.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: stern@nsinic.gsfc.nasa.gov (Pi R squared, Nooo! Pie are round. Cornbread are square)
Subject: Re: Whole house humidifier
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Science Internet Network Information Center
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 17:24:00 GMT

When we had our heating/ac system replaced, I decided not to pay an extra $400.
for a humidifier.  Previously, we had the squirrel cage type which seemed a bit
of a Rube-Goldberg design to me.  After shopping around, I settled on a spray-
type humidifier. My decision was based partly on the new furnace configuration
which left no horizontal ductwork easily accesible.  The new humidifier cost
$40-60 at the time (I forget which) and appealed to me for its simple elegance.
Basically, a 1/4" hdpe feed tube installs on the watermain with a saddle valve.
The unit requires only two small holes to be cut into a vertical section of
ductwork plus 4 mounting-screw holes.  A sensor detects the presence of heat,
expands and triggers a microswitch. The microswitch turns on an indicator light
and a solenoid that controls water flow thru a misting fixture.  There is a
sensitivity control. This really only controls the temperature the device
activates, not the water flow (my only complaint).  To deal with "hard water"
a filter can be added (and refilled via mail order) at the end of the water-
feed.  I believe I got my $60. worth...


Dave Stern

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
         NASA Science Internet  Routing Center Manager            Hughes STX
                         301-286-6079
 DECnet-   NSINIC::STERN                        Code 933   Bldg 28 Rm W291
 INTERNET- STERN@NSINIC.GSFC.NASA.GOV           Goddard Space Flight Center
 BITnet-   STERN@DFTBIT                         Greenbelt, MD 20771
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: jdschnitzer@mv.com (Jeff Schnitzer)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: x10 interface for Macintosh
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 11:09:31 EST
Reply-To: jdschnitzer@schmac.mv.com
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v4


In article <1992Dec22.170739.5122@novell.com> (misc.consumers.house), bradley@novell.com (Brad Soe) writes:
  >
  >  1) How do I get up to date software. Is there a way I can upgrade or buy 
  >  software for it? 
  >
They used to run their own forum on GEnie, but due to low volume it
was merged into GEnie's HOSB (Home Office / Small Business) forum.
Software is available for download from there.  It is copyrighted.
I don't know if it is available on other services or on one of the
FTP archive sites.  You might contact the X-10 folk directly.  The
contact info I have is:
   X-10 (USA) Inc.
   185a LeGrand Ave.
   Northvale, NJ 07647
   800-526-0027       [sorry non-USA readers, I don't have non-800 number]

  >  2) If I want to use the new DIN plug, do I just need a simple adapter cable
  >  that goes from DB-9 to the new DIN? 
  >
Yes.  That's all I use.

  >  3) I was originally planning on purchasing a Mac+ or SE cheap and buy the
  >  module to run x10, but I have a PB 160 and would like to use that instead.
  >  It is running system 7.1. Is this possible.
  > 
I can't confirm 7.1 compatibility but it should work.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
--  Jeff Schnitzer         |  Internet: jdschnitzer@schmac.mv.com     --
--  9 Brook Drive          |            jdschnitzer@uscore.mv.com     --
--  Hudson, NH 03051-5103  |  GEnie:    JDSCHNITZER (checked weekly)  --
--   ->-> CARPE DIEM <-<-  |  Voice:    (603) 880-9121                --
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: douglis@chimay.MITL.COM (Fred Douglis)
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Organization: /u/douglis/.organization
Date: 23 Dec 92 11:03:48


[Sorry if you see this twice, but I believe my previous posting lacked
a "distribution" field.  Thanks, gnus.]

>>>>>(Masoud Majidi) said:

    Masoud> I just called the toll free number of IRS (800) 829-1040
    Masoud> and was told the following:

    Masoud> For conventional mortgages if you have paid the points out
    Masoud> of your pocket (I didn't know that there was another way
    Masoud> of paying anything) if you use the house as your primary
    Masoud> residence and if your income is below $102,xxx then the
    Masoud> points are fully duductible in the year purchase was made.

Just to elaborate on this:

I was concerned by this comment since it was the first I heard of a
limit on the deductibility, so I too called IRS.  The explanation I
heard was that the points may be fully deductible, but your income
affects how much of your total deductions you can actually use.  The
more you earn over the $102K threshold, the more they chip away at
deductions.
--
Fred Douglis
Matsushita Information Technology Laboratory  | Email: douglis@mitl.com
182 Nassau Street			      | Phone: +1 609 497-4600
Princeton, NJ 08542 USA 		      | Fax:   +1 609 497-4013
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kovalsky@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov (Debbie Kovalsky)
Subject: Re: Help! Quick! The Appliance Gods are Retaliating Against Me!
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 21:15:00 GMT

..
>Upon opening my freezer this morning to get some ice, I discovered that
>things weren't as cold as they should be.  The ice had started to melt,
>and my hamburgers and hot dogs were getting mushy.  I checked the
>refrigerator compartment next, and things in there didn't seem very
>cold either.  I'm sure the doors to both compartments were closed, the
>temperature settings are OK, and we didn't have a power failure last
>night.  My refrigerator/freezer is a GE and not even 5 years old.
> 
>Before I call a repairperson, is there anything I can do myself to
>diagnose and fix the problem?

Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago, my dad who KNOWS EVERYTHING 
told me what to do.  Apparently, at some time the freezer had been 
left open and then shut.  Well in that process some ice had melted and 
then refroze over the fan.  So the cool air was not circulating 
through the freezer.  I defrosted the freezer, wiped it dry and turned 
it back on.  Of course Dad was right, as always and now my freezer 
works again.  I hope that is your problem, cuz it didn't cost me a 
cent!  You can speed up the defrosting process by using a blow dryer 
to melt the ice (mine was in the garage, so it was going to take a 
while).  If that doesn't work, call thje repairperson, or my Dad.

Debbie Kovalsky
kovalsky@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mechanical Setback Thermostats
Date: 25 Dec 1992 00:10:54 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

Park a small lamp under the t-stat. Turn it on with a dumb timer.
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
From: bradley@novell.com (Brad Soe)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: x10 interface for Macintosh
Date: 22 Dec 92 17:07:39 GMT
Organization: Novell Inc., San Jose, Califonia

In article <0105013D.lp2571@schmac.mv.com> jdschnitzer@schmac.mv.com writes:
>
>In article <1992Dec21.235052.21360@novell.com> (misc.consumers.house), bradley@novell.com (Brad Soe) writes:
>  >  I saw this item at a junk surplus store and on the package it states that 
>  >  it is for a Mac 512K. 
>  >
>The serial port connector is the old DB-9 rather than the newer mini-DIN.
>You'll need an adapter cable.  The latest software for the Mac X-10
>interface I know of is version 2.2, you might need to upgrade though
>if I recall I had no trouble going from a MacPlus to a IIsi then a
>Quadra 950 (now System 7.0.1 dot).

Lots of people sent e-mail about this item. It this seems like the one
you are talking about. I did not think that there were others available.
All I know is that it is made by BSR, it says on the package that it is 
for the Mac 512K and that it will control you can control your x10 modules
from it. I do not know if it has the software. I do not know much more. I
will go back to the store and look at it. 

My questions are:

1) How do I get up to date software. Is there a way I can upgrade or buy 
software for it? 

2) If I want to use the new DIN plug, do I just need a simple adapter cable
that goes from DB-9 to the new DIN? 

3) I was originally planning on purchasing a Mac+ or SE cheap and buy the
module to run x10, but I have a PB 160 and would like to use that instead.
It is running system 7.1. Is this possible. 


Thanks
Brad

Brad Soe
bradley@novell.com
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: OILFIRED HOT WATER HEATER
Keywords: WATER HEATER, FURNACE SAFETY
Date: 23 Dec 92 19:26:54 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <dhancock.10.724701828@UPEI.CA> dhancock@UPEI.CA (David Hancock) writes:
>
>
>I purchased an older house 6 months ago. In order to get House Insurance
>a safety inspector was dispatched check out my dwelling. His report has 
>indicated that my John Wood oil fired hot water heater has been installed 
>on a wooden plywood floor. 

Buy a batt of fiberglass.  Lay it out single thickness on the floor to
be covered ( say a 3' sqare section ).  Go down to the local lumber
place and order a piece of bluestone 3' sqare and two inches thick.
Put the bluestone on the fiberglass.  Trim fiberglass to fit.

Self leveling, self forming, sound and vibration absorbant.

Place water heater on bluestone.

Done.
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: blown-in cellulose and recessed lights
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 18:20:55 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:

> To insulate my 1700 sq-ft attic to R-30, I can buy fiberglass batts for
> about $600 or cellulose for the same plus/minus small change.  However,
> the pros can do it for me for $500 for batts or $400 for cellulose (I got
> 5 bids).  I'm inclined towards the cellulose; in fact, before the ceiling
> was drywalled I installed air vent chutes where I have intake vents.
> 
> However, one problem with cellulose that I haven't solved yet is what
> to do about my recessed lights and attic scuttle hole.  I have recessed
> lights in my 3 walk-in closets (code requirements could only be met by
> using 'em), 2 bathrooms, and over the kitchen sink.  I checked the info
> that came with the lights and they want insulation backed away by 3 inches.
> 
> I asked one installer what they do and he said, "Oh, the guys just brush
> the cellulose back away from the lights."  Sounds quick, dirty, and slapdash
> to me.  Are there better ways?  Could I erect some kind of barrier so that
> the full depth of cellulose could be had right up to the 3" demarcation?  Thx

Get some Sonotube concrete forms that are 6" larger in diameter than 
your fixtures, cut off sections long enough to extend a few inches 
above the projected level of insulation, and cover one end with 
newspaper. Place one piece over each light fixture, have the insulation
blown in, then pull off the newspaper. No worries about insulation
falling onto the fixture, or worrying about the crew "brushing it 
away". It's also fairly cheap. You could also use single wall stovepipe,
or even a piece of sheet metal bent in a circle. Just be sure to 
pull the newspaper afterwards....

With blown-in insulation, it's also a good idea to make sure it's
applied evenly. Someone I worked with had his house done, and
there was a nice 24" thick layer of insulation--around the access
hatch. The rest of the attic had 10" or so; TVA (the local power
provider, who was financing this) made the company come back.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (scott.d.brenner)
Subject: Help! Quick! The Appliance Gods are Retaliating Against Me!
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 12:32:20 GMT

Upon opening my freezer this morning to get some ice, I discovered that
things weren't as cold as they should be.  The ice had started to melt,
and my hamburgers and hot dogs were getting mushy.  I checked the
refrigerator compartment next, and things in there didn't seem very
cold either.  I'm sure the doors to both compartments were closed, the
temperature settings are OK, and we didn't have a power failure last
night.  My refrigerator/freezer is a GE and not even 5 years old.

Before I call a repairperson, is there anything I can do myself to
diagnose and fix the problem?  I believe the reason this happened is
that I fixed my washing machine a few weeks ago for about $7.00.  A
clamp holding a gasket had broken, spilling water all over the place.
I was very pleased with myself when I found the problem and was able
to fix it by putting on a new clamp.  Now the appliance gods are 
getting even.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Please respond directly by 
email because I might not be able to read this group until next week.

a T d H v A a N n K c S e

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Scott D. Brenner
AT&T Consumer Communications Services
Basking Ridge, NJ
sbrenner@attmail.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fanning@NMC.ED.RAY.COM (Robert Fanning)
Subject: Kitchen remodeling tips needed
Reply-To: fanning@iatc.ed.ray.com
Organization: Equipment Division, Raytheon Company
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 19:03:44 GMT



  I'm about to remodel the kitchen in my 1895 New England Colonial.

  I'm removing a non-load bearing wall, installing new cabinets, sink,
  dishwasher, garbage disposal, counter top, and floor.  I'll also 
  be changing around the lighting, skim coating the old horse hair
  plaster, and putting up wall board in a previously unfinished 
  addition.

  With all this rather 'large' work to do, I'm worried I'm going
  to miss some finer details so:

  1. What little things, that might be easily overlooked, should
     I consider adding to my design?

  2. A kitchen designer who I talked with said her services were
     free if I buy cabinets from her (she sells Quacker Made) but
     would cost me $500 if I wanted to take her designs to another
     supplier.  Does $500 sound reasonable?

  3. I'm going to be stripping paint from 4 window frames.  The paint
     probably had lead in it and there are two coats.  But I have no 
     kids, so...

      What is the general wisdom on heat guns vs chemicals.  Most of
      the surfaces are flat (un-sculpted) pine.  After stripping the
      old paint, I will paint again.  Why? Because when I painted over
      the trim in my living room it looked really bad - drips and
      sags every where - yes I sanded first, and I used Pratt & Lambert
      paint.

  Thanks for the help!
  Rob Fanning
  fanning@iatc.ed.ray.com
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Mechanical Setback Thermostats
Date: 24 Dec 1992 01:45:35 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: grissom.larc.nasa.gov

I've been looking for a mechanical setback thermostat for the last few
days, and not having any luck.  So far I have found a Robertshaw model
which has to be special-ordered, and doesn't look terribly impressive,
either.

I have seen the older Honeywell Chronotherm models, but my local Honeywell
dealer has never heard of them... he wants to sell me a Chronotherm III
digital model.

I don't want any digital equipment; because of the high RF level around
the place at times I tend to destroy microelectronics that aren't well
protected.  I just want a nice, simple mechanically timed thermostat.
Is that too much to ask for.

The current thermostat was installed along with the current furnace and
air conditioner (believe it or not!) in 1958, and it's getting a bit
nonlinear across its range.  I want something else that will last as long.
--scott
From: brian@ucsd.edu (Brian Kantor)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Date: 31 Dec 1992 14:19:28 GMT
Organization: The Avant-Garde of the Now, Ltd.
NNTP-Posting-Host: ucsd.edu

The idea is to reduce the amount of current through the "neutral" wire.
If the loads (current drawn) by the two sides (phases) of the panel are
about equal, the neutral will be carrying only the difference, and
you'll be better off.
	- Brian
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes)
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Organization: Manes and Associates, NYC
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 06:24:04 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]

Fred Christiansen (fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com) wrote:
: What does "balancing" a power panel mean?  Why is it necessary?  How
: is it typically accomplished?  Yes, I know I can ask my electrician,
: but the Net often has many gems of wisdom which I would not get from
: a non-talkative tradesman.  Thx.

Two legs of 110 VAC reside in your breaker box.  A 220V breaker would
attach to both of them (110V + 110V = 220V).  Your 110V breakers would
attach to one or the other of these legs.  Balancing the panel means
not having, for instance, a 110V/20 amp wall heater and a 10 amp
refrigerator and a 15 amp freezer and all your kitchen outlets on
the same 110V leg inside the panel because, eventually, the heater
and the fridge and the freezer will all be running at the same time
(drawing peak 45 amps) and you will turn on your microwave and blow
out one side of your main breaker, bringing half the house into
darkness.  You want to distribute the household load evenly between
each leg of 110v.

-- 
Stephen Manes					   manes@magpie.nycenet.edu
Manes and Associates/Commontech-NoHo		   New York, NY, USA  =o&>o

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Relining your flue.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 01:34:04 GMT

wnk@aquifer.geology.uiuc.edu (Walter Kreiling) writes:
: 
: We had the chimney sweep out last week to clean the flue and inspect it.
: He confirmed what the inspector (who inspected the house before we
: closed on it, which was 1 year ago) told us, that is that the flue coming
: from the furnace and the water heater needed to be relined.  They gave
: me an estimate of ~$1900.00 for the job.  It seems that the liner that's
: in there is as old as the house (68 yrs) and consists of glazed clay tiles 
: which are cracked and caving in.  The old tiles are 9 inches accross, and
: the chimney sweep determined that the new flue liner would only need to
: be 5 inches accross.  Their method consists of inserting a seamless stainless
: steel insert and then pouring a mortar compound around it to insulate and
: hold it in place.  This seems like it will last a long time but is also
: expensive.  I also talked to a furnace repair person who has another way
: of doing it, which is using a flexible aluminium flue which just hangs in
: the chimney and is suspended from the top, this method would only cost
: about $600.00.  My question, has anyone had their flue relined and if so
: which method did you use and how is it holding up?

Depends on how fancy a job you want. The furnace shop job will work fine
for many years.  If you decide to go for the fancy mortared construction,
I would get several estimates, and I would not get them from chimney sweeps.
Get them from heating contractors.

Bill
From: sasmyc@firefly.unx.sas.com (Mark Craver)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Streamline refinancing for an FHA loan
Date: 21 Dec 92 20:00:35 GMT
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Originator: sasmyc@firefly.unx.sas.com


I have an FHA loan.  At the time I bought the house, that's all I 
could qualify for.  I tried to refinance with a conventional loan, 
but I don't yet have the equity for that.  A couple of weeks ago,
I got a letter in the mail from some loan agency that does this
streamline FHA refinancing.  Basically it sounded like they simply
changed the interest rate for $175, and the escrows and everything
else stayed intact.  There were no appraisals, inspections, title
fees, etc.  It really sounded like this was a great deal.  The 
problem is that I lost the company's name and 800 number.  Has anyone
had any experience with this, or more importantly, could someone
provide me with the name and phone number?  Many thanks in advance!
                                     
-- 
*****************************************************************
* Only one man ever understood me. . .     Mark W. Craver       *
*         and he didn't understand me!     SAS Institute, Inc.  *
* - Philosopher George Wilhelm Hegel       Cary,  N. C.         *
*****************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house