HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Bud's claims to be "naturally carbonate
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:13:51 GMT

In article 26375@cbnewsl.cb.att.com, psrc@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (Paul S. R. Chisholm) writes:
>Y'know, I *swear* I read (some place unreliable, like a Bud label) that
>Spudwiser is kraeusened.  I *know* it doesn't make sense; there'd be
>lil' yeasties in their darn-near-water, and it wouldn't be crystal
>clear.

According to the label, Heileman's Old Style is kraeusened.

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: emeeks@unity.ncsu.edu (Edward Meeks)
Subject: Frozen Cockroach daiquiri!
Organization: North Carolina State University Computing Center
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 19:50:47 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.184651.12958@unixg.ubc.ca> arnett@unixg.ubc.ca (Bill Arnett) writes:
>
>I've also seen a cockroach survive 1 minute on high.  What does this prove?
>Probably nothing, but if an insect can survive apparently unharmed I
>wouldn't trust it to kill microbes.  Of course, it *might* have been
>a healthier cockroach *after* it's dose of radiation..... :-)
>	   
>Bill.
>
>PS: no it wasn't me trying to kill the cockroach.  It was a roommate.  I
>    stuck to simpler and quicker methods.
>

Yeah, dem lil' ba#*!rds are tuff! But I git even widdem. I catch me a
handful and chuck 'em in the blender. Add ice, a shot of Bacardi and
some grape kool-aid, and ya got yuseff a reeel drink!

Note: Don't mircrowave the roaches before pureeing them. It softens the
exoskeleton, so the roaches stick to the blades and will not blend with
the ice.

(Just havin' fun :)

--
Ed
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bottles for newbie
Date: 3 Sep 92 21:14:58 GMT
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

I've used both Heineken and Moosehead and they've served me well.  The only
loss I ever had was a Heineken that broke when it fell from a hight of about 4
feet.  Other than that...

Lately I'm using two liter plastic bottles.  Not wishing to start a flame war,
let me say that, IMHO, they are the best.  They are large, easy to clean, and
you can always tell when they are about done recarbonating.  Besides that, they
can be resealed.  

I dunno, though, I've been told I have peculiar tastes.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Exploding carboys, First batch.
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 04:44:47 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

In article <1992Aug26.143618.342@srg.srg.af.mil> akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp) writes:
>
>
>  While mixing up some 'India Pale Ale' from a box-kit, I added the
>toasted oak chips. These twice clogged the vent tube, shooting
>the stopper out at relativistic velocities, and blasting the room 
>with brown sludge. lost 3/4 gallon to the blow-up, but the rest is doing
>well, I guess.

My advice to beginners is to use the classic plastic primary and move to
a carboy after the big ferment is over.  You could have lost the whole
setup, carboy and all.  The stoppers don't always pop out nicely.

BTW, what on earth are "toasted oak chips"?

js
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: malodah@pbhyf.PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Subject: Re: god please don't flame me...
Reply-To: malodah@PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl)
Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 00:18:32 GMT

In article <wiley.715549240@crooks> wiley@wiley.b11.ingr.com writes:
>Secondly: "A large glass or plastic bottle, usually encased in a
>protective basket or crate..."
>
>So do carboys usually come with crates?  What happens to separate the
>two before the carboy shows up in a homebrew shop?  It sounds like a
>plastic crate would make a full carboy easier and safer to lift.
>Anyone seen such a beast?

Sure!  At my grandfather's house, when I was barely taller than the 
carboy.   He had several, enclosed in wooden crates and corked.  I had
to know what was in them!  My little brother and I worked away at
one cork until we finally got it off, then tipped the carboy to splash
a little out.  Whatever it was, it ate my brother's shoes right off
his feet.  My folks were not pleased ...

-- 
= Martin A. Lodahl    [DoD, AHA, NRA]  Systems Analyst, Pacific*Bell =
= malodah@PacBell.COM		Sacramento, CA, USA     916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!!  8-)} =
From: alh@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Al Hooton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: god please don't flame me...
Date: 1 Sep 92 20:51:39 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Sep1.202606.13997@worldbank.org> aki@atlas.worldbank.org (aki) writes:
>
>I REALLY feel stupid for asking this question but..
>just what _exactly_ is a carboy?  I noticed in
>a previous post that someone mentioned they
>bought a whole bunch of stuff from a local
>homebrew shop for $44 including a carboy and
>I've seen lots of discussions mentioning carboys.
>Is this something I need?  Does it replace
>bottles? Gawd I feel stupid...please don't
>laugh at me..I'm new at all this...:-( ...
>
>-aki

Folks, look what the flaming of the last 6 months has done... some of the
new people are really afraid of posting reasonable questions!  I don't
post too often to this group, but this really made an impact on me.  PLEASE
let's try to keep the signal/noise ration in r.c.b reasonable, and do all
flaming in *private*!  Thanks.

Aki, a carboy (also spelled carbouy sometimes) is large jug with a
narrow neck, usually in the 5 to 7 gallon range.  Heavily built, usually,
they were used several years ago to ship around bottled water, often to
be used in office water coolers.  These days, this water seems to be
shipped around in plastic carboys, not glass.  So, glass ones are difficult to
obtain from the water companies anymore (at least around here).  Your
brewing supply shop will probably carry some, although you'll pay a
premium if you get them there.

I will leave to others the discussion of glass versus plastic, which half
the time turns into a religious war anyway...

Happy Brewing, all...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Led Zepplin didn't write tunes everyone      | Al Hooton, SW engineer ???
  liked - they left that for the Bee Gees!        |     T&M Telecom Products   
                                                  | Tektronix, Inc.          
                                                  | (503) 627-4216 (wk)
  - Wayne Campbell, "Wayne's World"               | (503) 626-6849 (hm)
                                                  | alh@tekig1.pen.tek.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ddt@cbnews.cb.att.com (david.treat)
Subject: Re: wort chilling with ice cold water
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:19:54 GMT
Keywords: wort chilling

In article <4266@wet.UUCP> sbeitzel@wet.UUCP (Stephen Beitzel) writes:
>In article <1992Aug24.203744.22413@terminator.cc.umich.edu> markg@itd.umich.edu writes:
>Is there anything wrong with chilling your wort by combining the hot
>concentrate [by adding very cold water]
>
I've used this method for several batches; it seems to work fine.
Some oxidation probably occurs, but it's better than pouring the
hot wort directly into the cold water in the fermentation vessel.

Dave Treat
From: comfrank@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Frank Tutzauer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: purely esoteric question
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:14:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep2.132036.58580@cc.usu.edu>, slndw@cc.usu.edu writes...
>Fellow fermenters,
> 
>During primary fermentation of darker beers (ales) the water in
>my fermentation lock gets a bit brown.  The beer is not blowing off
>through the lock, but somehow the water takes on a "darkish" color.
>...Anybody else seen this. ...


Once, I brewed a stout and I replaced the blowoff hose with the 
fermentation lock too soon.  I got gunk in it, but still, even 
after it had calmed down and quit blowing through (and after
I had replace the lock with a new one) the water in the lock took
on the same darkish color.  I figured maybe it was still blowing
some, but not enough or not frequently enough that I could see
it.  This is the only time the dark color in the lock has ever
happened to me, however.

who knows....

--frank
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: purely esoteric question
Date: 2 Sep 92 13:20:36 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Fellow fermenters,

During primary fermentation of darker beers (ales) the water in
my fermentation lock gets a bit brown.  The beer is not blowing off
through the lock, but somehow the water takes on a "darkish" color.
This color is from the beer, I assume, and I really don't care if
the water in the fermentation lock is blue or purple or whatever.
However, I was just curious if anyone knows how the color gets there. 
Can color molecules be picked up by the CO2 bubbles and released
in the lock?  Anybody else seen this.  Just another interesting
brewery data point and esoteric inquiry.

brew on!

-toot

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: carruth@mksol.dseg.ti.com (matthew carruth)
Subject: Filters for clairity?
Organization: internet
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 22:22:29 GMT

The wort goes from the primary to the secondary. This step is partially
for the purpose of removing the yeast sediment.  From the secondary it
goes into the bottles.  There is usually some sediment present in the 
bottles, however, after brewing.  Could the wort be filtered, before
or after the secondary to eliminate this problem?  Would the filter remove
all the yeast in soultion?   This seems like a simple procedure, and 
wit disposable filters, would not have any infection
problems.  Is it a good idea?
Keywords: 


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My views are my own and do not reflect those of my employeers....
From: dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Darewood Michael Steinhoff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: correction
Date: 27 Aug 92 02:16:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Originator: dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu


please send all replies to dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

thanks again
mike
-- 
'it's 106 miles  to chicago,we got a full tank of gas,
half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.'
'hit it'
-Jake and Elwood Blues        please send email to dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
From: cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: phosphoric acid infrmation
Date: 1 Sep 92 16:11:39 EDT

I was lucky enough to obtain a product called FSD-34, a 
cleaning agent used by the microbrewery in my town.
It is basically 70% phosphoric acid and isopropyl alchohol.
I used it diluted  1 tsp per three gallons water.
It does not need to be rinsed off, so a lot of labor is saved.
If anyone out there has any information about this pooduct
that I should be aware of, could they please e-mail it to me?
I am just being careful- I have investigated the use
of this somewhat, but it can't hurt to check more.
Thanks in advance-
		Chris
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Sassafras for Root Beer
Date: 4 Sep 92 16:58:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: xenon.hersh.715625910
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall) writes:


>Jack, Jack, Jack.  As I understand it, DDT is still the only sufficiently
>effective mosquito control agent in many parts of the world.  Which
>would you rather the folks in Sri Lanka had: malaria, or soft-shelled
>bird eggs?

>Personally, I'd rather they had a different mosquito control agent.
>But until the ultimate "super guppy" is bred, folks whose lives depend
>on it will continue to use insecticides with harmful side effects.
>Most folks would rather their family members stopped dropping dead
>before tackling more complex environmental issues and/or the preferences
>of American consumers and/or bureaucrats.


I think this is nonsense, in the Midwest, in particular Minnesota (land of 1000
lakes, and many more mosquitos) and in other parts of the country they have
mosquito eradication programs that do not, by law, use DDT.


>Where is it that you, or anyone else, can buy leaded gas now?  I haven't 
>seen it in a couple of years.

Leaded gas is still available in many states. Oregon and Washington, and many, many other Midwest and Western States.


	JaH
--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
From: abirenbo@pollux.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Raspberry beer
Date: 25 Aug 92 15:09:27 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <10409@sun13.scri.fsu.edu> pepke@gw.scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke) writes:
>In article <BtG1qF.MDv@xrtll.uucp> stephane@xrtll.uucp (Stephane 
>Deschenes) writes:
>> Please keep in mind that I am a neophite when it comes to brewing
>> so I may not understand difficult processes.
>
>Well, then this should be a new experience for you!  :-)
>

>You can come not quite as close with a lot less effort by doing a full 
>grain "sour mash." 

you can also do an extract sour "mash".  Just disolve your extract,
lwt cool to about 130F, add about 1/2 lb cracked wheat or barley malt,
cover with saran wrap and wait 24 hours.  then boil as usual but use
very little hops.  see the NEW CJOHB by Papazian for more details.

I have had mixed results with this.  I have found that the desired
Lactobacillus Delbreuckii is lacking in most commercial malts.
they must use some preservative (sulpher???).  A friend of mine
from a farmer's family has made his own malts which sour quite
nicely.  I prefer this over the actual sour mash, since leaving
the full grain in contact with wort for such a long time can produce
off-flavors.  Its a better idea to sour the WORT not GRIST.
Next time, i will grow up a starter culture from the raw malted
wheat, and use only liquid from this to sour the warm wort.

--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: fbruno@rapnet.sanders.lockheed.com (F. Bruno)
Subject: EichenWiezzen and probs
Organization: Sanders Associates
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 12:07:50 GMT

I have just kegged a batch of Frankos Magnificient EichenWeizzen. This
I noticed last night that a strange brown colored(almost green) yeast
seemed to have started... Well actually, I was opening up the carboy
to check the SG readingand noticed a smell from my first batch, that of
rotten eggs. My first batch was ruined, so I panicked and immediately
grabbed my keg, filled it and bumped the pressure up to 30 PSI. The new
"invader" yeast had just started, as there was no off color trub that I
noticed, just the usual off white stuff, with about 30 yeast "clumps"
floating up and down. My only thought is that maybe the alcohol
content killed off the Wyeast and this new strain took over (mutated?)
Well, Heres my recipe:
	Franko's Magnificient Eichenweizzen.
	1 lb lite dry extract
	3.3 kg Ireks wheat extract
	Wyeast 3056 Bavarian Wheat
	1 oz. Hallertauer 7.5 alpha
	1/4 oz Hallertauer 7.5 alpha (finish)
	1 tsp. Irish moss
	1 oz. Oak chips

8/19/92	Boil 1 1/2 gal water
	add 3.3 kg OIreks wheat
	add 1 lb aem dry malt extract
	add 1 oz Hallertauer
	Let boil for 40 minutes
	add 1/2 oz finishing hops
	add 1 oz oak chips
	add 1 tsp irish moss
	Let cool
	add water to bring to 5 gals
	pitch Yeast
	OG 1045
9/1/92	FG 1012

Any comments on the little alien yeasts toward the end?
			-Frank

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: carruth@mksol.dseg.ti.com (matthew carruth)
Subject: what does 1.028 mean?
Organization: internet
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 14:15:49 GMT

I bottled a batch last night.  The final specific gravity was 1.028.  Does that 
mean anything.  I used one "can" of extract, 3 lbs of powdered malt extract,
1oz of finishing hops, an one package of dry yeast.  I added enough distilled
water to make 5 gal.  It has fermented for 5 days.  

Keywords: 


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My views are my own and do not reflect those of my employeers....
From: abirenbo@corvus.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: European Ale (Wyeast 1338) Culture
Date: 1 Sep 92 16:36:58 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <1992Aug31.152855.58536@cc.usu.edu> slk6p@cc.usu.edu writes:

>?  I just cultured the wheat yeast (Williams-  a Wyeast product, but is it
>3056?  I dunno?)   There do seem to be white, and somewhat darker colonies.
>Does anyone know which is which?

i believe that the darker colonies are S. Delbreuckii.

--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
From: adw@cci632.cci.com (Allen Williams (co-op))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: beginner questions on trub, racking, blow-off
Date: 26 Aug 92 13:10:04 GMT
Organization: [Computer Consoles, Inc., Rochester, NY

In article <BtJx8H.HpA@news.dtc.hp.com> peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete) writes:
>I'm a relative beginner, having brewed only 5 batches, all using kits, and
>I'm still in information gathering mode.  Here are my latest questions ...
>
>
>2.  I've read numerous referrals to "blow-off".  Is this the initial, very
>    vigorous phase?  I get the impression people don't use a fermentation
>    lock here.  In fact even though I give generous air space, I've had
>    problems with a clogged fermentation lock which eventually clears and
>    sprays stuff over the walls.  What is used?
>


 Well, I have even fewer batches under my belt than you do, but I learned about
blow off the hard way. Last time I used 2 packages of Whitbred yeast (Lager)
to pitch a standard kit beer, and a few hours later I heard this
"bloook, pfsttppp, errrrrrrn, POP!" sound from the living room. I ran to
see if the Swamp Thing was in my kitchen, but instead I found the underside
of the kitchen table dripping with foam and a mess of wort on top of the
bucket and in the surrounding area. The fermentation lock had clogged and
was lying next to it. Even more foam was starting to billow from the
hole where the fermenter used to be.

 This had never happened to me before, but this was also the first time I
used Whitbred yeast. Previously I used Red Star. When using Red Star the
fermentation lock bubbled but no foam (karausean?) tried to mutate or
escape from the fermenter.

 I put in a blow-off tube as described in Papazian- you put a short peice
of stiff plastic tubing where the fermentation lock goes, and attach the
tubing you use for bottling, with the other end under a body of water.
I used a pot filled with water and a small bit of Kleen Brite for good
measure.

 The water in the pot bubbled strongly overnight. All turned out well,
and the bubbles amused the cat to no end (he had this look on his face
as he stared at the bubbles that seemed to say , "wow, dood, that's a
big FISH in there!").

 The morning after I put the fermentation lock back in and it was business
as usual.


 Good luck!
     
                                                       Derrick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Subject: Re: god please don't flame me...
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 02:50:23 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.001832.29959@pbhyf.PacBell.COM> malodah@PacBell.COM (Martin A. Lodahl) writes:
>In article <wiley.715549240@crooks> wiley@wiley.b11.ingr.com writes:
>>Secondly: "A large glass or plastic bottle, usually encased in a
>>protective basket or crate..."
>>
>>So do carboys usually come with crates?  What happens to separate the
>>two before the carboy shows up in a homebrew shop?  It sounds like a
>>plastic crate would make a full carboy easier and safer to lift.
>>Anyone seen such a beast?
>
>Sure!  At my grandfather's house, when I was barely taller than the 
>carboy.   He had several, enclosed in wooden crates and corked.  I had
>to know what was in them!  My little brother and I worked away at
>one cork until we finally got it off, then tipped the carboy to splash
>a little out.  Whatever it was, it ate my brother's shoes right off
>his feet.  My folks were not pleased ...

I used to think, until I started brewing in fact, that carboys _always_
came encased in a wicker basket with two sturdy handles. Sometimes
progress runs backwards.

Pierre



Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bottles for newbie
Date: 1 Sep 92 21:22:42 GMT
Organization: University of Chicago

In article <1992Sep1.131844.58550@cc.usu.edu>, slndw@cc.usu.edu writes:
 
> Any good, strong bottles will do.  Longneck type returnable bottles are 
> generally the best beer type bottles.  Avoid screw-top and thin glass
> bottles.  My favorite are pint cola bottles (the kind you pay a $.10 deposit
> on.  The quart and/or litre ones are nice, but quite hard to find.  I like
> these because they are STRONG and hold a whole pint, which is enough for 
> two small glasses or one pound glass.  Another idea is sparkling wine bottles.
> These are also very strong.  Check that your capper will cap them, or else
> you can get plastic "corks" and wires for an added touch.  Some people seem
> to like 2 litre plastic bottles, but I have not tried these yet (I don't 
> usually drink soda).
> 
> The returnable coke bottles can be "borrowed" for the deposit...just go
> down to the store and pay 'em for a few.  Also, using larger bottles, there
> are fewer to wash.  Hooray.  Other sources for bottles are bars and resturaunts
> (they won't give you the returnable ones unless you pay their deposit, but 
> they are usually happy to give you all others), parties, or even buy some
> beer that's in good bottles and drink it.  I even resort to dumpster diving
> and I find really good stuff, including nice bottles.  Of course, they will
> need a good washing...  maybe the homebrew store will even sell you some?  You
> will soon find that you find bottles here, there, everywhere.  Then the task is
> to keep the bottles filled.  Of course, soon you will empty some and find
> new bottles, but keep brewing and filling, brewing and filling....
> 
Question:  Are Heinekein and Moosehead bottles okey?  I have a ton of them.
I will admit that they do not seem to be the strongest looking.
A list of beer bottles that are okey would definitely help.
Thanks.