From: jeffh@nonsuch.EBay.Sun.COM (Jeff Huntington)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: When to go?
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:11:12 GMT
Reply-To: jeffh@nonsuch.EBay.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: nonsuch.ebay.sun.com

In article 22965@cs.brown.edu, jfh@cs.brown.edu (John F. Hughes) writes:


> OK, I'll bite. What does "polishing" my fuel mean. I've got the "Brasso" and a
> clean rag handy :-)...

I use the term "polish" because that is the term commonly used by people who do 
this commercially.  The latest issue (I beleive) of Cruising World (I think - 
could be Sail) has an article on fuel tanks, and they refer to fuel polishing
as well.  Basically, fuel polishing is pumping fuel from your fuel tank (while the 
tank is being agitated) through a filter and returning it to your tank.  Commercial
fuel polishers pump the fuel into another tank, clean it, and return it to your
tank.  You can accomplish about the same thing by using an electric fuel pump,
a good Racor (or other, if you prefer) fuel filter, a valve, and a return line
to your tank.

Install the electric fuel pump (a big one, not the small transfer pump kind that
sometimes come with the engine) just after your Racor fuel filter.  Just after
the pump, install a selection valve.  A Y valve is all you really need, but if 
you use a four-way valve you get the benefit of the control handle pointing in
the direction of flow.  The inlet to the valve goes to the output of the electric
fuel pump.  One of the valve outlets goes to the normal fuel transfer pump.  The
other outlet goes to the hose you are using to return fuel to the tank.

To "polish" your fuel, select a time when you are sailing (or anchored) in choppy
water (so the fuel in the tank is being agitated).  Put the selection valve in
the position to return the fuel to the tank, and turn on the electric fuel pump.
It will be useful if you have installed a vacumn gague in the system because it
will tell you when the filter is getting clogged, and needs replacing.  If your
fuel is very dirty, it is useful to start with a coarse filter to get out the
big stuff, and then switch to a fine filter to get out the rest.
 



> 
> I assume that the first word here is "sound" rather than "spound," but if not,
> I'd love to know what "spound" means. Also, I had always taken the phrase
> "sounding the tanks" to mean "sticking a long stick into the tank to see
> what's in it" (i.e., how much fuel there is). Since this clearly will not get
> the water and junk out, I'll go ahead an ask---what do *you* do when you
> "sound the tank"?

You assume correctly.  I expect the term sound comes from the use of a long stick
to determine what is in the tank.  However, in this case, a long tube or rigid 
hose is used to draw water from the bottom of the tank.  Most any kind of hand 
pump can be used, but the Jackrabbit pump seems to work really well.  Put the 
tube the whole way to the bottom of the tank and start pumping.  You will be able
to clearly see when you stop getting water and start drawing fuel.


 
> Adjusting the valves sounds like a good idea, and my Westerbeke manual
> recommends that it be done periodically. There's no mention in either the
> owner's manual or the shop manual about re-torqueing the head. 

I don't know what to say about this.  I have seen serious damage done to engines
that had not had their heads torqued.  Water migrates from the water passage to a
cylinder, and it is rebuild time.  I have been surprised how loose the head
boats have been on my engines when I have torqued them (particularly for the 
first time).  If the engine manufacturer does not specify to torque the head,
I guess you don't have to.  On the other hand, while you are in there adjusting
the valves why not check the head torque anyway?  It can't hurt.  Be sure to
back each bolt off a half turn before you torque it in order to get a good reading.

Jeff Huntington
Newsgroups: rec.boats