HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: where@maple.circa.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Splitting this Group
Date: 15 Dec 92 13:04:11 GMT
Reply-To: where@maple.circa.ufl.edu
Organization: University of Florida - CIRCA

WHY WHY WHY????   Why would you want to split this group? I've owned a 
Air-Cooled VW for over 5 years, I've owned a H2O pumper for almost 2 now.
I Enjoy Reading All This Stuff!!!  Alot of the stuff I learned how to fix
on my Beetle has been helpful on my A-1 Scirocco. If you look at the
swing axle Bug, then at the FWD Scirocco, a CV job looks like a CV job.
If you Look at tightening the AC belt on the Scirocco, it looks like
tightening the fan belt on the Bug, you just have the Alt pulley in the
way (but it comes off!!) A sway bar installation on the rear of my Bug
is just like the installation of an aftermarket sway bar to my Scirocco.
    So, to those of you who want to split this group, I have only this to
say:  You could learn alot from a H2O Pumper, just as I did from my Air-
Cooled!!   
   P.S. If you think that the H2O pumpers are posting more, its just because
we have H2O to worry about and you can just think of it the way I know you
already do: (Water? Heck, We never have to check our Water!!!! :)
    WHERE@Maple.Circa.Ufl.Edu
       Fahrvergnugen= Driving 80+ mph in a VW
   Whether Air or H2O, It's still A VW!!!!!!!
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: tires
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:36:54 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum) writes:

> I had Michelin MXL as OEM on my 85 Jetta, 175/70-13. The were great in
> snow and dry, but awful in wet as you note. I now have Pirelli p500
> all-season, h-rated, m+s tires, which are good everywhere. They should be
> replacing the obsolescent p77 as their all-weather tire. Many of the fashiona
> 
> -TC


I agree, I too have a set of P500's (front two tires only.. for now..).  They 
seem to handle great in the wet.  Good and sticky when dry...

     Dan Reed - blu@cellar.org - AutoCAD Geek -Industrial Music Lover
      68'Cougar, 89'VW Golf, 74'Honda Cb360, 89'Rollerblade Zetras'
  "Anyone can get a gun Otis. You can make a phone call and get a gun."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Supertrapp Exhausts
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:07:27 GMT

Brad Sheridan asks for recommendations regarding exhausts and especially
Supertrapps. Supertrapps are GREAT for road racing and autocrossing,
you can fine tune your exhaust to move the torque and power bands
up and down the rev range...they run about $90 each.

If you are going to use them for an everyday muffler they SUCK!!! I
had to use my 84 DSP Rabbit GTI for a few weeks while the 86 was
in the shop to repair damage from a red-light runner. The 84 was
registered so I could get it to and from events, and it was
fortunatley available as a 3rd car. To make a long story short,
they are LOUD!!! If you drive the car for more than 30 minutes
at a time they are PAINFULL!

If you are looking for a performance exhaust with a good balance
for street and autox, etc, try Gilette (I have over 120k miles
on my GTI system) or Liestritz (spelling?).

Ric Golen
From: paul@hsh.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 71' beetle questions
Date: 17 Dec 92 22:27:41 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1992Dec15.050911.25757@pony.Ingres.COM>, garrett@Ingres.COM (REACH OUT AND GREP SOMEONE) writes:
> 
> 	I was wondering if there was any difference in size
> of front fenders for a  '71 Super Beetle and a regular beetle. I'm
> planning on changing fenders, but I don't want to spend my money and
> time messing with the wrong sized fender in a junk-yard. Does anyone
> know? Thanks in advance.

Sorry, but while you can swap any standard Beetle front fenders (even a 66 
and a 70 are close), you can't swap a standard for a Super.  The difference 
is in the front:  standard fenders flare outward, away from the car (they 
follow the front skirt pattern).  Supers, however, curve back under the car.

------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ 

Paul Havemann, VP        HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 | 1-800-UPDATES
Internet: paul@hsh.com   Compuserve: 70410,3507  America On-Line: HSH Assoc
  ...Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the company...
From: dgren@omar.WPI.EDU (David Gerard Grenache)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Oil Pressure Light
Date: 17 Dec 1992 15:44:55 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: omar.wpi.edu

Driving around today, the oil pressure light on my '88 Golf would
go on for a second or two and then go off.  I checked the oil
immediately and there was plenty.  Also, there were none of the
usual noises associated with a loss of oil pressure.

I should add that the weather here in the Northeast has been
terrible...lots of snow and now rain; and that my car was
stuck in a snowbank for 4 days.  I am thinking that the problem
is due to a faulty and/or wet pressure sensor and wire.  Does
this sound reasonable?  Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Until later.

--David
From: mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW problem..
Date: 12 Dec 1992 13:42:36 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu


Hi, quick question.. just today my car started making the wiedest noise.
I have a 16v GTI, and when my engine is running, the is a buzzing sound
coming from under the car on the right mid-rear section (near the back
right tire). when the car is off, and I turn the key to the on position
(without cranking the engine), it buzzes for a second then stops
is this the alternator? It used to make a little noise before when I
turned hte key, but not, the buzzing is much louder.. anything I can do?
thanx for help.
From: calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Any good books?
Date: 13 Dec 92 21:39:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Dec13.213911.1095
Organization: University of Washington


     Hi folks,

     I have a 16V Scirocco, and I am looking for some good books on how to
     repair and do maintenance...

     Right now I have the book by Bently.. Since I've never held a wrench
     before, are there any good books for "idiots" like me?  :)  I know
     there's something like that for car-cooled cars.... I was wondering
     if there's anything for the water-cooled cars.

     Thanks.

               -kent
From: cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] Beetle does Herbie impression - update
Keywords: Help!
Date: 17 Dec 92 12:29:05 GMT
Reply-To: cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Nottingham University


Many thanks to everyone who've given me plenty of advice about my Beetle
blaring its horn and flashing its lights when it wants - I'm still trying
things, but haven't had too much time to work on it yet - I'll post the
definitive answer when I finally get it sorted out - however.....

At the same time I'm trying to improve the cosmetic appearance of the car,
and to that end bought some new wing-mount complete indicator housings
(for my '72 1300), thinking even *I* could manage to fit these things!

Needless to say I'm having problems - first off I was only really looking to
replace the chrome covers, but since the package was the whole lot including
the rubber seal I thought it would a bonus to replace the split perished one
on mine with the new one.

So I took the old one off, put the new one on, with much difficulty as the tube
taking the wires from inside the car boot area to the indicator was smaller
than the original (which required a lot of pulling and tugging of the wires
to which I'd attached some string to aid pulling it through), connected the
wires in the right places (I'd made notes beforehand!), and without fixing
the assembly back to the wing tested it out.

At this point it worked, but the indicator flash rate was twice that of
previously - I noted you also get this if a bulb has gone, but in this case
both front and rear lamps were flashing merrily away.  What then totally
threw me was the fact that the indicators on the other side would also flash
too fast - and I hadn't touched them!

I couldn't work it out, so decided that it was something I could live with
until I got it sorted, so I screwed the thing down on the wing, and then
did a final check on it - now nothing, although the rear lamp flashed at the
normal rate but at a much reduced intensity - if left on long enough it even
blew out the fuse!  I reasoned, and subsequently tested, that it was
the fact that the retaining screw which was in contact with the lamp assembly
and the car body that was the cause of the fuse blowing - I've managed to rig
up a temporary solution by fitting a rubber washer to the screw which seems
to keep it sufficiently away, and also allow the indicators to work (at their
new fast rate), but it's obviously not the solution.

I really don't understand that much about car electrics, and trying to make
it up as you go along by trying to relate a schematic to reality is just
getting me nowhere!

Can anyone come up with an indication of what's going on here and what I
should look for in order to fix it?

Many (more!) thanks,  
                        Marlon
------------
Marlon Cole                  email:  cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk or
Systems Programmer                   cczcole@uk.ac.nott.unicorn depending.....
Cripps Computing Centre
University of Nottingham
NOTTINGHAM. NG7 2RD
England
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: vw oil filter
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 03:06:38 GMT

In article <1goc9qINNa8g@aludra.usc.edu>, mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows) writes:
>went to get my oil filter changed today at a gas station and the guy told
>me that my car (92 GTI) is one of two cars (integra v6) that needs a
>special oil filter (one with a check valve or something).. also
>costing TEN bux more.. is this true? bullshit? maybe true? well,
>I got it anyway.
>
>
Yeah...and I have some waterfront property I want to sell you!!!

I think we had this discussion before on the net...use VW or
MANN oil filters....buy some, carry them in your car, when you
go to the local garage to have your oil changed have him use
it. I know mechanics like to use their own parts..after all
they are entitled to make a profit, so offer him a couple
of bucks to use yours....it works out in the long run!

Ric



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bobp@apollo.HP.COM (Bob Plencner)
Subject: Re: [A] Mid Engine Buggy
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:38:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Chelmsford, MA


In article <1992Dec11.171014.28276@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com (Douglas Shade) writes:
|> When building a mid engine rail (turning the motor and trans backward),
|> does the motor rotate backwards?  Are there major mods to the tranny?
|> (Like reverse or straight cut gears?)  Mostly just curious, no real
|> plans to do this.
|> 
|> ---
|> shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com                        \/
|> 602-821-4096                                    \/\/...its not a car 
|> 
|> 


  If never had my nose inside of a bug transaxle, but
from what I've heard, there's only one gear that needs
to be changed around to get it to run backwards.  This
is how the Formula Vee guys run with the engine forward
of the transaxle.  Though I drive SCCA FV, I've never 
had the need to pull my transaxle apart, and therefore
can't give you any specifics. It can be done, and quite
easily from what I understand.

-Bob

********************************************************************************
*  Bob Plencner             (603) 772-1500 x3889        bobp@apollo.hp.com     *
*  Hewlett-Packard (ECMO)   Exeter, NH     03833        NARRC -  FV - #15      *
********************************************************************************
From: IADLRC@ASUACAD.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Replacement of rubber manifold seals - 68 bus
Date: 17 Dec 92 17:10:54 GMT
Organization: Arizona State University

Help,
I need to know how difficult it is to replace the black rubber intake
manifold boots/seals on a friends '68 bus.  I know I need to pull the
engine, but after that, how difficult is the job.  Please E-Mail, and post
to the group if you feel it is appropriate.  Thanks in advance for ANY help!
Larry Carlson
From: bugman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Matthew Ethan Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: (Air) Acceleration in spurts
Date: 14 Dec 1992 23:08:39 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

In article <1992Dec11.070146.10333@unvax.union.edu> lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange) writes:
>My '63 is accelerating (at times) in spurts.  The wires all look good, 
>plugs aren't too bad.  When it's doing this, if I give the engine more gas,
>the problem usually ends.  Problem cylinder?  Fuel line?  Any ideas on a
>good product to clear the fuel line?  Maybe I'll just do a complete tune-up,
>but I'd rather figure out what the problem is.  Notice the mention of "Air" in
>my subject?  

try checking the fuel filter.  there is also a screen in the bottom
of the fuel tank that may be plugged.  The carb may also be
very dirty and need a rebuild/cleaning. if the car hasn`t had a tune
up in a while, invest the thirty bucks in new ignition parts...BOSCH...
and don`t forget to adjust the valves.
  to clean the fuel line, just blow through it.  my friend had a
  bus that had the same intermittant acceleration problem.  it turned
  out that a plug wire was sometimes not working.  A new set of BOSCH
  wires cleard the problem.
From: mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: catalytic converters..
Date: 20 Dec 1992 01:39:55 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu


quick question... a friend of mine has a 90 GTI, and is moving to Canada.
He wants to know if there will be any problems if he simply removes his
catalytic converter, and replaces it with a pipe. Is it that simple, or
must other adjustments be done?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bossoj@aix.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini)
Subject: Re: Rabbit Speedo & Jetta Tranny & horn
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 04:08:57 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.234605.28023@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:

[stuff deleted]

>You can also check the speedo by driving it with a reversible drill.  The 
>indicated speed will be 60 times the RPM rated on your drill all divided by
>the number appearing at the bottom of the speedo face. (60*RPM/NUMBER) which
>will be about 46 mph for a 1200 rpm drill.
>
>Mark

Will this formula work with non-VDO (i.e. non VW/Audi) speedos?
Also, are most VW/Audi speedos interchangeable??

I currently do not have access to any other VW/Audi speedos beside my own one
to answer this question myself!!

Thanks!

Joe (bossoj@rpi.edu)
From: bew@brahms.udel.edu (Ben Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help on '66 1300 beetle engine needed
Summary: compression test results
Date: 11 Dec 92 19:14:05 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bz403J.I76
Organization: University of Delaware

In article <1992Dec10.110607.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
; 
; Also, the tach may be set for 8 cylinders? Then the reading would only be half
; of the correct value.
; 

Fred was exactly right about the tach being set to 8 cylinders and me not
doing the conversion.  My VW bug is now set to idle at 1700 rpm.  Talk about
idiots...

In article <1992Dec10.071852.1@bb1t.monsanto.com>, bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:

; These two are probably related.  You may have an intermittent misfire in 
; either #3 or #4 cylinder.  Do you notice a lot of black deposits on 
; one of these spark plugs?  This is often as simple as a new 
; distributor cap and rotor and new plug wires.

Those spark plugs actually turned out looking rather well.  Plug #1 was very
sooty.

; Regarding the oil additives for using lead-free gas:  I used them for 
; some time and I think they added to plug fouling.  The solution is to 
; get the correct valves and valve guides into the heads for unleaded 
; gas.  They are available and should be the only type installed if your 
; machinist is honest.
;
; --Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

That is excellant!  I had never considered that all you need is to replace
the valves!  Now where are these available?  Does this mean if I say, would
order new heads from J.C.Whitney (this unfortunately is the only source I
know of for getting VW parts besides local stores and junkyards), they would
be set to use unleaded gas?  Well I would think they would since leaded gas
is awfully rare anymore.  What exactly is the diffence in the valves and
guides for unleaded gas?  I could understand maybe the way the valves and
valve seats were cut, but the valve guides?

Could someone list some good sources of VW parts?


Here are the results of compression checks of my cylinders (dead cold,
unfortunately) if anyone is interested:

#1:  125psi ;  #2:  115psi ;  #3:  100psi ;  #4:  125psi

Ben.

-- 
Ben Williams
bew@brahms.udel.edu

               What we got here is a failure to communicate... 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson)
Subject: Renewing pushrod tubes in a 77 bus engine
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Madison -- Computer Sciences Dept.
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 02:16:43 GMT

Hi all-
As I have mentioned before, I have recently acquired a 77 camper.  Most of the 
problems have been fixed, but I have one remaining one that I want to fix soon.
After the engine has run, as it is cooling down, I get little puddles of oil on
either side of the engine.  Futher looking has convinced me that the leaks are
at the point where one or more of the push rod tubes meet the heads (I have
ruled out the valve cover gaskets already)  According to the Haynes manual, I
can replace these with some kind of 'telescoping' tubes.  Any experience with 
this?  In any case, can anyone recommend a way to stop the leak that does not
involve pulling the engine?
Thanks,
Phil
From: ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: vw oil filter
Date: 18 Dec 92 14:55:05 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL


Hey folks,

More on filters - I've stuck with Bosch (but MANN also).
Anyway I just changed it this weekend and I had the filter off
and got the new Bosch out - said hey different color (now black
not gray) and put it on.  That's when I saw the numbers were
different.  Called the parts guy and Bosch just redesigned then, 
thus the new numbers.  Just so you don't freak out like I did
(I started thinking I either had the wrong filter on before or
did now - and it was Sunday so I had to wait to call the guy).
Oh, one of the things he said they did was re-do the check valve.

    

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris T. Ward  DoD#0710   "Don't take life too seriously, you can never come
                           out of it alive."  -?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] Wiper/Washer 1990 VW Fox Help!
Date: 17 Dec 92 16:29:48 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

Our Fox (a very dependable and reliable car) seems to be having
a little trouble.  The wiper/washer switch seems to be working
intermitently.

In the Fox as well as in my Jetta, when you pull the wiper/washer
switch/control toward you, the wipers are supposed start, and fluid
is supposed to spray on the windshield.  On our Fox, this only works
sometimes.

Using the Bently manual for the Fox, i completed the test for the 
switch, but everything checks out.  Yet, the wiper/washer function
still only operates intermitently.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what i might check next?  Anyone
experienced a similar problem?

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
From: todd@zbt.sw.stratus.com (Todd Joseph)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Audi Heater core help...
Date: 18 Dec 1992 20:37:01 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Software Engineering
NNTP-Posting-Host: zbt.sw.stratus.com
Keywords: hearter core, replaced, problem


I just replaced the heater core on my 1985 Audi 5000S, thanks to
a lot of help from Mike Sylvester.  Thanks Mike!

I get air coming out of all the vents at all the right settings, but I
cannot get heat.  The hoses going into the heater core are warm, so
warm coolant is making it's way in there.  Could I have assembled the
heater box wrong?  If I assembled it wrong, would I get air blowing
out in all the right places?  Is it possible that I missed a plug
somewhere?

Thanks for any help.  

-Todd

-- 
===========================================================
Todd Joseph			todd@stratus.com
Stratus Computer
55 Fairbanks Blvd.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Splitting this Group
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:59:31 GMT

A few days ago someone asked about how to fix a problem on their bus.
I, a H2O VW owner responded from my past experience with air-cooled
VW's (8 in all).  The result:

> Thanks for the advise- I did not pull the engine and I was able to complete
> the job in two hours.  Best thing, I saved $120!
> 
> Larry Carlson - ASU West Administrative Affairs, 0551, 543-3252

If some of you purest air-cooled people want to go off on your own,
you just may cut yourself off from some of the information you really
need.  Then again, some people would rather learn things the hard way.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih)
Subject: Re: vw oil filter
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:36:44 GMT

blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:

>Bullshit.  Go back and kill the guy.  Most *good* filters (Fram, and Mann) 
>have this "check valve" built in.  K-mart sells Frams for about $4.
>
>All cars *should* have a filter this good on them.

     Are you sure Fram has the check valve built in?  How come when I read
     in the FAQ, it said that Fram does not have it?

          -kent

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw