HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Marc Gabriel)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: New listserv group - LymeNet
Date: 23 Jan 93 22:52:45 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Introducing...

******************************************************************************
*                The Lyme Disease Electronic Mail Network                    *
*                               LymeNet                                      *
******************************************************************************

Lyme Disease is now the fastest growing infectious disease in the United
States.  In 10 short years, this little known bacterial infection has claimed
half a million victims and the number of new patients continues to spiral
upward with no relief in sight.  It is estimated that in 1991, 100,000
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permanent nerve, musculoskeletal and cardiac damage.

Unfortunately, many in the medical and political arenas have not given this
epidemic much thought.  Self appointed experts in the academic community have
declared that LD can always be cured with short courses of simple antibiotics.
However, as the number of cases rise, doctors on the front lines are
discovering that LD is more serious that previously suspected, requiring longer
treatment therapies and more complex combinations of medicines.  The battle
lines have been drawn.

And the battles continue at LD conferences, and in the various State
legislatures where insurance companies, terrified at the high cost of LD, are
attempting to short change patients.  Estimates show that the average cost of
treatment for chronic LD patients ranges from $60,000 to $100,000 per patient.

MAILING LIST:
To keep up with the latest developments, including new treatment protocols,
research news and political events, we introduce the Lyme Disease Electronic
Mail Network.  LymeNet, in association with the Lyme Disease Network of New
Jersey, Inc., with provide you with a periodic newsletter with the latest
information.  All you need is an Internet- accessible e-mail address.

INTERESTED INDIVIDUALS INCLUDE:
      * LD patients
      * Friends or family of LD patients, who may wish to forward the
        newsletter to an LD patient
      * Interested members of the medical community
      * Interested members of the press


To subscribe, send a memo to Internet address  listserv@Lehigh.EDU
In the body type:

subscribe LymeNet-L <Your Real Name>

Please send problem reports to mcg2@Lehigh.EDU.
From: mlb@st-andrews.ac.uk (Mark Begbie)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Getting over the edge safely
Date: 25 Jan 93 19:38:59 GMT
Organization: St. Andrews University, Scotland.

Starting an abseil with the anchors below the top of a crag scares
the proverbials out of mee too, and I have been climbing for seven
years, so still a beginner as well.

The only way I have found is to jump off the top of the crag, with the
descender clipped in and ready to go!  No but seriously, I just clip in
to the descender, take in all the slack, and down climb the last few moves
until I am slightly below the abseil anchor.  Form then on it is just 
averagely scary.

By the way is anyone else haunted by the same thing as me.  Namely when 
you say you are a climber someone always says, "Oh you're a climber, can
you take me abseiling?". Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Mark Begbie.
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: N. Face of Gothics
Date: 22 Jan 1993 20:18:02 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com
Keywords: Gothics

Anyone "out there" got some first hand info on the Dougal WInter Route on the N. face of Gothics in the Adirondacks?

I'd like to hear about the approach as well as the climb itself.

Also, what's the descent like and how much backtracking/bushwhacking does it require to get back to the previous night's bivvy?

I'm thinking of doing it next month (Feb). How long does it usually take to come into condx?
From: wilsonrc@vax1.bham.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Gripmaster Finger Exerciser
Date: 27 Jan 93 11:28:50 GMT
Organization: University of Birmingham
NNTP-Posting-Host: vax1.bham.ac.uk


> Finger exerciser
> ----------------
> 

The Gripmaster is available from Snow and Rock, Birmingham.
It retails for just under a tenner, and they do mail order!

Richard 

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU (wayne trzyna)
Subject: Re: Oh Gross! Injury analysis
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:58:23 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Computer Science Department

In article <1993Jan21.162940.63011@cc.usu.edu> sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair) writes:
>Regarding recent ice climbing mishap.....
...
>So, why after five days is my
>bicep black with bruising while the deltoid only has minor yellow
>discoloration with no visible discoloration at the site of the impact
>(which is still the center of any residual pain).

Because you didn't set the belay in a good spot, perhaps?

-- 

-Wayne Trzyna
 trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: peapud@marcus.its.rpi.edu (Diane Hope Peapus)
Subject: >>grip master and old tennis balls
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 14:56:12 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.085515.11401@aber.ac.uk> azw@aber.ac.uk (Andrew Michael Woodward) writes:
>An article on training devices in Climbing a feew months back reckoned that 
>finger exercisers were good for helping injuries to heal, but useless for
>strength training.

	For a recent shoulder injury a physical therapist told me to 
squeeze an old tennis ball.  I think they're cheaper than Gripmaster(TM).

				:)
From: YAN PLATONOV <yan@smphys.nsk.su>
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: competitions in summer
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 11:06:00 +0700
Distribution: world
Organization: Physiology (Gid:smphys.nsk.su)
Reply-To: yan@smphys.nsk.su

Hi All!

--- GEcho/beta
 * Origin: BRI'92 (2:5000/16)

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: kjl@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (K J Leiden)
Subject: Re: Injuries (was Bull Fighting)
Organization: Lockheed
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 16:48:19 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.221612.24457@nas.nasa.gov> eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya) writes:
>
>I have had more trouble with skiing injuries than all of climbing.
>The velocity has something to do with it.

Or maybe you should try climbing something more difficult than 4th class
Sierra rubble.  People get hurt all the time pushing their limits on
hard free climbs (non-sportdoggie)

Velocity has nothing to do with it.  Its the sudden deceleration that hurts.

Climb On,


-- 
Ken Leiden
Sunnyvale, CA
kjl@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com
From: jacobson5821@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: climbing ropes
Date: 22 Jan 93 10:25:48 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Does anyone have any advice one getting a rope.  I plan on getting an 11 mm,
but would like to hear from people on there experieces with their ropes.  I
have a 10.5mm New England Maxim now and love it, but it has a few on the outer
sheath strands cut on it.  No, I can't see the core.  Is my rope still ok for   
TR.  Ok that wasn't a good question for people who can't even see my rope.
                                Thanks, 
                                        Paul
P.S. Email me at Jacobson5821@iscsvax.uni.edu

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: randrew@teton.UVic.CA (Rex  Andrew)
Subject: rappel accidents
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 21:34:22 GMT

I'm looking for a bit of (probably meaningless) trivia. Somewhere sometime
I read something to the effect that a lot of famous climbers have died in
rappel accidents (implying, I guess, that, having ascended a hard route, they
became inattentive on the descent, or that more generally, being veterens 
of hard bold ascents, they became careless in something as straightforward (!)
as setting rappels anchors, etc.)

Now clearly I don't want arguments on what a "famous climber" is! At the
time this was written, I suspect the author was referring to climbers a
few decades ago who honed their skills on local mountains and then went 
off to do big things in the Alps, Himalayas, etc.

I don't remember where I came across this assertion, and, notwithstanding 
the annual list of misfortunes in Accidents in N.A.Mountaineering, I can 
only think of Tom Patey as a possible example. Can anybody suggest others?

Rex
From: amlf@ukc.ac.uk (A.M.L.Fowler)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Gripmaster Finger Exerciser
Date: 21 Jan 93 14:03:54 GMT
Organization: Computing Lab, University of Kent at Canterbury, UK.


Finger exerciser
----------------

I've seen an advert in an American magazine for a finger exerciser
called a "GRIPMASTER".  It's a squeezy thing you hold in your hand
but it has separate springs for each finger.  

I think it's made by the "IMC Products Corps", who are based in
New York, but I want to know how to get one in the UK.

Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Aliy
From: nage@ellis.uchicago.edu (Rufus Nagel)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Reno Indoor Climbing Gyms
Date: 25 Jan 93 22:59:04 GMT
Reply-To: nage@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations


	I will be in Reno for a week, and I wonder if there is an indoor wall 
in the area. I have got to get my climbing fix.
repoly-to: nage@midway.uchicago.edu
From: elmar@ocf.berkeley.edu (Elmar Stefke)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: MORE CRAGMONT BOLTING
Date: 28 Jan 1993 20:49:22 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: ba
NNTP-Posting-Host: earthquake.berkeley.edu

It has been pointed out by a couple of people (John, Bruce) that bolting
at Cragmont may actually be a beneficial thing for various reasons:
1.  Environmental concerns: a close inspection of the trees used for
toproping will reveal that there has been no damage whatsoever (I was
up there last weekend), no broken off branches, no abraided bark, and
no uprooting.  I would call that a pretty good record considering that
the place has been in use since the 1930's.  For those who are still 
concerned there is the option of slinging a rock (right side) or placing
one or more pieces in a crack (left side).
2.  Traffic/Beginners:  I have never seen or heard of anybody intentionally
or unintentionally messing up somebody elses set-up.  It is true that there
is alot of traffic up on the rocks, especially during the summer, but the
majority of people take good care not to step on slings etc.  As for that
remaining minority of clumsy oafs, who may step on your slings, they'll
always exist, bolted or not.  Instead of stepping on your slings, they may
now drop biners etc. on your head while setting up on the bolts.

I must say outright that I do not endorse the use of bolts, although my
hypocritical self often wishes for ten more of those things on a runout route
or poor belay station or to avoid that 5th class exposed descent....
Hey maybe I'll even put up a bolt route myself someday, the point is that
these bolts are not necessary as evidenced by a long history of low
environmental impact and a good safety record (has anybody ever died at
Cragmont?).
John does present a good point on the bolting war, since I am definitely
in favor of pulling them, as are other people on the net.  Let's hope
that sooner or later the person responsible gets the message, runs out of
money and/or bolts, moves to France etc...
Speaking of bolting at Indian Rock, it is definitely the other evil.  I've
taken about a year to get psyched enough to do the center overhang in the
pit and now do it as a routine problem on the traverse.  It always amazes me to see
people set up a rope there, when they don't even have the physical strength
to do the problem.  There is so much other stuff to do, why turn a 20'
boulder problem into a 20' toprope.  The bolts there only encourage people
to set up.  I fell into that trap once when I started out and even though
I made it I regret it to this day.  It's like doing a hard lead with a bolt
every four feet: are you really climbing????
-Elmar Stefke
From: deaton@saturn.sdsu.edu (Ed Deaton)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Guide for climbing near Chamonix
Date: 21 Jan 1993 00:05:14 GMT
Organization: San Diego State University, College of Sciences
NNTP-Posting-Host: saturn.sdsu.edu
Summary: How to contact a guide?
Keywords: Guide, Chamonix, Mt. Blanc
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

My son requests that I try to find out how he can contact a climbing
guide in or near Chamonix.  He wants to climb Mt. Blanc and possibly some
other peaks in the region without contracting with an expensive
commercial company here in the United States.  I will forward any suggestions
you might have.  Thank you.

Ed Deaton
From: sari@ncd.com (Sari Lynn Goldbaum)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Jewelry Glue
Date: 27 Jan 93 00:19:54 GMT
Organization: NCD

I have several pins from which the backs have come off.  One is made of plasticized paper, the other of some kind of polymer resin.  Can anyone recommend a glue to use to put them back together?  The original glue was thick enough to fill in holes on the finding - unlike, say, crazy glue.  Suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

				- Sari Lynn Goldbaum

				  sari@ncd.com
From: JBrandt@AAA.Uoregon.EDU (Pegasus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Tablet/Card weaving
Followup-To: rec.crafts.misc
Date: 27 Jan 1993 16:22:40 GMT
Organization: The Polyhedron Group
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: fp1-dialin-2.uoregon.edu


Peter Collingwood's book .The Techniques of Tablet Weaving. Watson-Guptill,
1982
the bible of card weaving.  It has been out of print for some time now as
those of you who were serching for a copy already know. The University of
Washington Press is looking at the idea of reprinting it. If you think its
a good idea to please write to:
	     Marilyn Trueblood, Editor
	     University of Washington Press
	     Box 50096
	     Seattle, WA 98145-5096
Bibliographic information follows:
	     Author: Peter Collingwood
	     Title: The Techniques of Tablet Weaving
	     Pub: Watson-Guptill, 1982
	     ISBN: 0823052559

Pegasus
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: youngberg_michael@tandem.com (Mike Youngberg)
Subject: Glassblowing info wanted
Followup-To: rec.crafts.misc
Organization: Tandem Computers
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 19:35:42 GMT

I'm looking for information on glass blowing.
How to get started?  Where to purchase tools and materials?
Useful books, techniques, hints?

Any information at all would be useful.

-thanks, mike

youngberg_michael@tandem.com
From: ath@linkoping.trab.se (Anders Thulin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: leather working
Keywords: leather, bookbinding
Date: 27 Jan 93 07:14:48 GMT
Organization: Telia Research AB, Teknikringen 2B, S-583 30 Linkoping, Sweden

In article <1993Jan24.203222.26003@samba.oit.unc.edu> fladd@ils.unc.edu (Darlene H. Fladager) writes:
>
>I seek advice/information from anyone out there with experience in book
>binding and leather -- I'm rebinding a civil war biography and I'd like
>to put some ensignia on the spine (this will be a 1 quarter leather
>binding)?  Should I soak/wet the leather first?

It will help, yes. But since you're asking, better read up on gold and
blind tooling in some decent book on bookbinding. That will tell you
most of what you need to know.

If you're going to use some heat-setting metal foils, you don't really
need it - it won't look good whatever you do.

Before you try it on the book, experiment on scrap leather. It can be
very difficult to retouch stampwork, especially if the tools were too
hot.

>Will that damage the leather?

Not if done the right way. You'll need to oil the leather afterwards
anyway.

>Should I carve out the design I want or should I stamp it?

Depends on which you know best. Stamping is the tradional way, but it
can be a bit tricky, unless you know the leather you're working with,
and the tool you're going to use.

Carving is slightly unorthodox - but if it done well, no-one will
complain. 

Don't use a method you're not familiar with. 

>Where can I get leather stamps that are reasonably priced?

Don't know about this. The only place I know is at auctions or
directly from a bookbinder who want's to get rid of some old tools.

New tools are expensive.

>Also, does anyone out there know of a leather supply company which
>carries 'archival quality' leather for bookbinding?  I currently
>deal with BookMakers in Maryland, but there stock is on the pricey
>side.

Those I know are in England or Denmark, so I doubt that I can be of
any help here.

I'm not certain what you mean by Archival Quality. Any PIRA-marked
leather should do well. I've been using second grade oasis -- the only
drawback is that there are some holes in it. But for half or quarter
bindings it's OK.

-- 
Anders Thulin        ath@linkoping.trab.se        013-23 55 32
Telia Research AB, Teknikringen 2B, S-583 30 Linkoping, Sweden
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: leather working
Keywords: leather, bookbinding
Date: 25 Jan 93 15:55:24 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <1993Jan24.203222.26003@samba.oit.unc.edu> fladd@ils.unc.edu (Darlene H. Fladager) writes:
>
>binding)?  Should I soak/wet the leather first?  Will that damage the
>leather?  Should I carve out the design I want or should I stamp it?
>Where can I get leather stamps that are reasonably priced?

If you are going to stamp the leather then you wet it first.  It may darken
the leather a little, but not very much.  Make sure that you but some extra
leather to practice on.
>
>Also, does anyone out there know of a leather supply company which
>carries 'archival quality' leather for bookbinding?  I currently
>deal with BookMakers in Maryland, but there stock is on the pricey
>side.

Try Tandy Leather.  There is a store in most major cities.  They are
not the cheapest, but if you are new at leather working they are really
good about steering you in the right direction.  They may have vidios on
book binding.



good luck


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: maridai@ecs.comm.mot.com (Marida Ignacio)
Subject: Rub-on stickers/transfers?
Organization: trunking_fixed
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:38:10 GMT


Hello!
I'm not sure what it is really called but I am
looking for those rub-on type stickers/transfers.
Y'know, instead of those type with sticky backings
that you peel-off from the base.  It is the one
which the front is stuck to the base(?) paper
(like iron-on transfer picture).  To transfer
it to some surface, you have to position it
to that surface and rub the front until the
picture is transferred.  I hope I am making
this clear instead of obscuring it some more.
I've look in some crafts stores' sticker stands
and I do not like the 'pictures' they have and
most stickers they carry are peel-off and stick
type or letters and numbers transfers.  Does anyone 
know of a store that concentrates on transfers like this? 
particularly small stuff of about 1/2" x 1/2" 
pictures.  I am mostly interested in victorian 
type (roses, ribbons, cherubs, etc.) pictures that 
small.

Otherwise, does anybody know a way of making(?)
an ordinary picture (say, photo-copy) become
like these rub-on transfer/sticker - the household
method (in contrary to the industrial)?  This way,
I can just draw and color the picture the way
I want it and change it into the rub-on transfer
for multiple-copies and transfers.

I'd appreciate any help you can offer.  Thanks!

-Marida (maridai@ecs.comm.mot.com)
 Another quest for the impossible...maybe not quite.
 


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: maridai@ecs.comm.mot.com (Marida Ignacio)
Subject: Re: leather working
Organization: trunking_fixed
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:02:53 GMT
Keywords: leather, bookbinding

Free catalog and lots of nice leather, stamping tools, kits,
books, the works!:

TANDY LEATHER CO.
P.O. Box 791
Forth Worth, TX 76101
(817)244-6404

Soaking shouldn't ruin the leather.  In fact, that is
what they advise during stamping - I wouldn't call it
simply dampening; it's more like soaking.

Hope this helps.

-Marida









Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: uudot@godot.lerc.nasa.gov (Dot Carney)
Subject: Papermaking supplies?
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:48:49 GMT


Please advise me on how to select scrap paper suitable
for recycling as homemade paper.  

Also, some of the nicest scrap paper available to me
has lots of ink on it ... will the ink be a problem?

My paper production will be small scale and simple.
I'll be using a kitchen blender to make the pulp;
then will be forming the paper in a small screen box.

Email replies to:  uudot@godot.lerc.nasa.gov   Thanks.

--
-----------------------------------------------------
DOT CARNEY                  uudot@godot.lerc.nasa.gov
NASA/Lewis Research Center        voice:(216)433-8261
Cleveland, OH   "My opinions ... not CSD's or NASA's"
-----------------------------------------------------
From: Orakel@sarpih.no (Jens Kr. Kirkeb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: CERAMICS DECALS?
Date: 21 Jan 93 12:33:22 GMT
Organization: stfold Ingenirhyskole

In article <93011.192947U58100@uicvm.uic.edu> Laura Boutwell <U58100@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
>I've seen a process for applying what looks to me to be a Xerox transfer
>to a piece *before* it is glazed, such that you can get a fairly detailed
>image under transparent glaze with a lot of fiedelity...does anyone know
>what this is and how to do it?
>Thanks, Laura Bootsy Boutwell
>U58100@UICVM.BITNET
>u58100@UICVM.BITNE

In Greece, one uses (Stearin?) =melted candles on the ware to keep the 
glaze from sticking to the pot.  I have seen thos done fairly elegantly, 
involving several firings with different glazes.  Detail is remarkable

RR
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: gary@bigcat.bellcore.com (Gary Truax)
Subject: Candle Supplies
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 14:11:27 GMT

I've done some candlemaking off and on for a few years. Usually just the
regular molds and colors. I've always used paraffin wax with no additives.
In some more interesting types of candles I want to make (hurricanes,
sand molds, etc.) they suggest using different waxes with different 
melting/boiling temperatures, using stearic acid and dyes for candles.
The craft stores in my area (central NJ) seem to have a very small section 
for candle supplies and usually only carry molds, wicks and colored waxes. I'm
looking for any information on where to get the stuff I need. 
(stores/catalogs/etc) Any help is appreciated. 

Gary Truax (gary@bigcat.bellcore.com)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc