HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: QUESTION: Color films
Date: 27 Sep 1992 02:47:08 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


If you are shooting at ISO 100 and want a good color film, and you are
shooting either 35mm or 120 try Fuji Reala, but make sure that whoever
processes it knows what they are doing.  Another very nice film with
color rendition *close* to the luminosity and saturation of
color slide film is Fujicolor NSP ISO 160..also available in 4x5 as well
as 35mm and 120..I have been testing it lately and my 4x5 contact
prints are very nice indeed.
If you are looking for a fast film in 35mm or 120, try Fujicolor NHG ISO 400,
it is very fine grained and has excellent flesh tones and seems to
have good epo

exposure latitude.


Brian

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: vhs6r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Victor Hsiao-yu Shao)
Subject: QUESTION: Color films
Keywords: film
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 17:06:47 GMT

I'm a black and white photographer and I almost exclusively use T-max 100
for everything... so when it comes to color films, I'm at a lost.  Which 
one is better?  People keep telling me that Fuji (super-HG?) is better 
than Gold or Gold Plus, is that true?  What is the difference between
gold and gold plus?  Some input is much appreciated.

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: smustopo@nyx.cs.du.edu (sofjan mustopoh)
Subject: Re: Bullets through balloons
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 03:47:28 GMT

In article <brein-021092093731@128.149.100.150> brein@gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov 
Barry Rein) writes:
>I have a Canon A-1, and a Speedlite 199A flash.
>
>As the question implies, I am interested in taking photos of high-speed
>phenomena like liquids dripping, hammers smashing light-bulbs, etcetera.
>
>I understand the technique involves opening the shutter in a dark place,
>then firing the flash at the exact moment your balloon bursts.
>
>I further understand that a good way of triggering the flash is with a
>microphone circuit.
>
>My questions are:
>
>1. What is the duration of a standard camera flash, such as the one I ha
e?
>2. Is this fast enough for short-lived phenomena?
>3. If not, what sort of strobe should I look for?
>4. Does anyone have information on sound-triggered flash circuits,
>particularly  
>   schematics. Or commercially available units?
>
>Thank you very much.
>
>Please reply to rec.photo, or directly to the address below.
>
>******************************************
>*       Barry Rein                       *
>*       brein@dsfvax.jpl.nasa.gov        *
>******************************************
>*       No clever comment.               *
>******************************************


  
   Usually you set the flash power setting to the lowest possible
   like 1/8, 1/16 or even 1/32 if you can .
   i don't have the exact duration time of the flash but if you try
   you will find out at which flash power setting , is enought.
   enought flash power and flash duration. 

     I have two schematic and pcb layout for the trigering device
   both can be set with delay . and can be triger by sound and
   blocking of light beam. I'll try to find it first 
   it is some where in my collection of schematic. 
   i'll try to post if i can't i'll tell you how to get a copty 

   P.s I use Minolta 8000i and 5200i . and set the flash to 1/16
       and set the aperture acording to the distance between 
       flash and the subject. shuter speed is B , in darkened room


   Muskie
   " Hang on i'll dig into my book case"
   UK07802@mik.uky.edu
   smustopo@nyx.cs.du.edu
   71054,2723  compuserve
From: sh2u+@andrew.cmu.edu (Scott T. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: EOS 850
Date: 30 Sep 92 20:15:18 GMT
Organization: Fifth yr. senior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I'm thinking of selling my EOS 850 w/ 35-80 Sigma len & Quantary
professional flash (A-TTL, zoom head, full power or 1/3 power, rotates
sideways and verticals)

I want to get EOS 630 or higher. Anyone want to sell, buy, or trade?

By the way, it's in excellent condition.
From: eugene@briar.lle.rochester.edu (Eugene Kowaluk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon N90
Date: 30 Sep 92 16:24:45 GMT
Organization: UofR Laboratory for Laser Energetics


Christoph Ditzen writes:
> Yesterday I happened to be at a local Ritz Camera. I asked them about the
> N90. They didn't know it's features, but had a price. They will be selling
> it for $899. So mail-order it'll probably run around $650-$700. Also, they
> said that the N90 is replacing the F3, which will be discontinued. From the
> description, the N90 didn't exactly sound like a F3 to me, but what the heck.

A local store here is selling it for $789.

Using the camera, I was surprised at how loud it was, just like the F2.  It
felt more a weapon than a new plastic camera.  I was very happy to see that
the viewfinder displays an enhanced image of the shutter speeds and f stops.

But too late, after 15 years with Nikon I switched to Canon last month.


eugene kowaluk
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpehko@cs.joensuu.fi (Juha Pehkonen)
Subject: Re: How do you focus in the dark?
Organization: University of Joensuu
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 11:16:59 GMT

ralph@mendel.berkeley.edu ( Ralph Peteranderl ) writes:
>You should try red light (You can get red filters for some flash lights,
>they should be sufficient).  Many nocturnal animals can't see red light,
>so it makes a great (well,  not all that great - humans have a hard time 
>seeing, too) focusing aid.  I hope this helps with spiders,  too.  I know

Well, if this is true, then why not use the flashlight's red focus light
(or whatever it's called). I can easily focus in total darkness with that.

Juha Pehkonen
jpehko@cs.joensuu.fi

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: DH02000 <DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca>
Subject: Re: Popluar Photography (was does Popular Photography really pro
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 13:47:30 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.230718.29537@indetech.com> alix@indetech.com (Alexandria North) writes:
>By the way, I was wondering if anyone on the net has ever received their
>free Nikon magazine sample issue for sending in their warranty/reg cards
>and filling out the questionnaire. I did this for my Nikon 8008s back in
>April, but I've never seen a Nikon magazine...

Good question!  That reminds me, I'd sent in my warranty card in June
and am yet to see the Nikon magazine :-<  I did receive a catalog
from Nikon offering to sell video cassettes on how to use the equipment
tho' !!!

-Tamal Ghosh

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: erothman@cs.cornell.edu (Ernest E. Rothman)
Subject: Zeiss-Ikon Contessa repair
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:15:49 GMT

Dear USENETers: 
 
I have a Zeiss Ikon Contessa (folding 35 mm rangefinder with Tessar 45 mm f/2.8
lens) dating from about 1952. I have taken hundreds (perhaps thousands) of 
photographs with it over the years. I recently discovered that the shutter
does not work in the slower speeds (1/10 and below). I would like to get it
repaired. The camera is in otherwise excellent condition (clean, light meter
works, lens is spotless and has produced excellent images - even by 
today's standards, no dents or scratchs anywhere. Okay, my Nikon 8008s can
probably outperform it in many ways, but I still love to use my Contessa.
BTW, the shutter is a syncro-compur shutter.
 
A local camera dealer/repair shop (Village Camera Shop in 
Seneca Falls, NY said that he could fix it for $75 unless it needs a part 
that he cannot get (in which case he would charge $25 just for looking it 
over). Professional Camera in NYC said that they could do it for $125. 
They could probably fix it, but it seems a bit too expensive.
 
Yesterday, I called ZV-Service in North Carolina (advertized in 
Shutterbug mag). The guy I spoke to said that he would need to see the 
camera, but these things usually run between 60 and 90 dollars (including
cleaning, lubrication, adjustments, (routine servicing), and a 6 month 
guarantee on their work). 
(ZV-Service claims to specialize in repair of Zeiss and Voigtlander cameras.)
 
My questions are: 
 
1) has anyone used ZV-service in NC before? If so, what for and more 
   importantly do you have any complaints about the service or quality
   of work? 
 
2) can you recommend some other place? 
 
3) What is the best way to send my camera there? UPS or insured mail, other? 
 
4) How much do you think something like this should cost (if you've had 
   a similar job done for your camera)?
 
 
I would greatly appreciate any advice you can give me (either by posting 
to USENET or by direct e-mail to erothman@cs.cornell.edu)
 
Thanks,
Ernest E. Rothman
From: IO92112@MAINE.MAINE.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Experience with Canon EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM
Date: 6 Oct 92 02:50:37 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System
Supersedes: <92279.203505IO92112@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>


In article <19920ct5.201357.5558@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com
(Robert. M. Atkins) writes:

>unless my memory is fading (which it might be), I thought that the EF75-300
>had a ROTATING zoom control, not a push-pull control (like the 100-300L)
>Given this, it is hard to see how the zoom would slide in the vertical
>position. The push-pull zooms (from most lens makers) are prone to this
>"zoom creep" effect, but I've never seen it in lens which zooms via a
>rotating ring. Maybe the "gearing" on these zooms is now so low that creep
>is possible. If you say it is there, then I believe you.

You are right. The Canon EF 75-300mm is the rotating ring zoom unlike
EF 100-300mm USM with push/pull ring. However, the zoom rings in both
zoom so loose that whenever the lenses are in verticle position the
zoom rings slide down. I own a EF 100-300 USM. Before I bought this
lens, I went to photo shop to play both lenses. Both of them have the
loose ring problem. I thought the lenses I played in the store were
defect and wear down. But the saleperson picked up the lens from other
packages, all of them were the same. Although I am not really satified with
the zoom ring, I got the EF 100-300mm USM through mail-orderfrom B&Hanyway
because of its fast and quiet focus, and good optical quality.
I personally don't own a EF 75-300mm zoom. From my limited experience
in the photo store, the zoom ring DO slide down when the lens are in
verticle position. Maybe other 75-300mm owner can share their experiences.

> ==============================================================
> Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
> ===============================================================

G a r r y -
Internet: io92112@maine.maine.edu
Bitnet:   io92112@maine.bitnet
Voice:    1-207-581-3795
Fax:      1-207-866-2614
From: ez006212@hamlet.ucdavis.edu ( )
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: QUESTION: Color films
Keywords: film
Date: 1 Oct 92 05:13:52 GMT
Organization: Computing Services, UC Davis

In article <1992Sep26.170647.16418@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> vhs6r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Victor Hsiao-yu Shao) writes:
>I'm a black and white photographer and I almost exclusively use T-max 100
>for everything... so when it comes to color films, I'm at a lost.  Which 
>one is better?  People keep telling me that Fuji (super-HG?) is better 
>than Gold or Gold Plus, is that true?  What is the difference between
>gold and gold plus?  Some input is much appreciated.

Selecting your processing lab is just as important as selecting the film.

I've shot with Reala & SRG160, which are supposed to be higher-end amateur
print films but the results were bad (icky colors).  I blame the labs.
I haven't reprinted the negatives at a pro lab so I can't say 100% that it
was the lab's fault, but most likely it was.

I like Super HG/HR & Gold (both in 100 speed).  Don't like 200 that much.
I doubt I'd like 400 & above.
From: petsch@sylt.informatik.uni-kl.de (Petsch Wolfram - PA Meybrink)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: B&W-Slides
Keywords: Slides B&W Developing
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:05:18 GMT
Organization: University of Kaiserslautern, W-Germany

Hi!
I developed an Ilford Delta 400 for B&W-Slides with the Tetenal
B&W-Slide-Kit. For the first developing there were no time given for
this Film. So I tried 18min for 800 ASA exposed Film. The Results were
too dark, but sharp and with a fine Grain. 

I have 3 Films left from a holidatrip to Mexico. 1 APX100 an 2 HP5+.
I have the times for the APX100 and HP5+, but I used the HP5+ at
800ASA. The first developing time for the HP5+ at 400ASA is 18min. How
long do I have to develope the Film at 800ASA?

Second question: Is it possible to use normal Developers like Ilford
LC29 or Rodinal ... for the first developing and homemade chemicals
for the rest of the processing. 

regards Wolfram Petsch


-- 
petsch@sylt.informatik.uni-kl.de (Wolfram Petsch)
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Zoom Lenses and Telescopes
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:22:40 GMT
Organization: University of Chicago

I was recently looking at the latest Sears Catalogue (Wishbook) and saw a bunch of 
Sears Brand zoom lenses
they are selling at reasonable costs (from $75 to $175).  These prices seemed a lot lower than
namebrand ones.  Is it a good idea to buy lenses from Sears?

Also, and I'm not sure where I saw this one but there was in some catalogue, an ad for telescopes
that basically fit onto a camera as lenses.  Does that mean one could take pictures of the moon and 
Saturn with it?  That would be great if true.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: edmtl@alf.uib.no (Thor Legvold)
Subject: Advice for foto vacation in Egypt wanted.
Organization: University of Bergen, Norway
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 14:28:08 GMT

Hi gang!

Well, I ordered my winter vacation today - I'm off to a week in
Cairo (Egypt). I was in Tunisia 2 years ago - but with a 35mm 
system which has been sold.

Since I've newly entered the world of Medium format, I would like to make
the pictures from this trip as good as possible.  So I'm soliciting
advice.  No, not the 'be creative' kind - I _have_ been photographing
for some years now - I think I can manage that end of things ;-)

What I'm thinking of is: practical advice from those who've been there 
before, film/equipment suggestions, etc.

I got rid of all my 'old' equipment and bought a Bronica with a PS110mm
macro, WL finder and magazine at the end of last year.  I'm still learning
new ways to use it (paperweight ;-), and hope some of you MF'ers can 
help out :-)

I'm thinking of loaning or renting extra lenses and magazines, but which
ones I'm not too sure - want a balance between carriability and useability.
I was thinking a 40mm and a 250mm should be OK. 

Well - enough talk.  Thanks for the help!
P.S. Please e-mail replies!

Regards,
Thor
edmtl@alf.uib.no
edmtl@fiol.uib.no (NeXTmail)
Legvold@edb.uib.no
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Thank You
Date: 24 Sep 92 15:48:07 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

I want to tell everyone THANKS A LOT for replying to my recent test, both
by email & publically.

        Bob Batson
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: volunteers
Date: 26 Sep 92 19:32:18 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

Ah! The volunteers! They've made me extremely popular on my block,
and the block is getting more floriferous as the years pass!

I had a Verbena bonariensis volunteer in my yard, now I have dozens,
and have given away many, many more! Their tall spikyness is great in a
mixed bouquet. 

Let's see: Shasta-type daisies all over the place, feverfew, the
black-eyed susans (I love all the variations in color), Lychnis
coronaria (campion), Stachys byzantina (Lamb's ears), so much 
Nigella that I send folks home with a stem or two, Hollyhocks.

Got a Salpiglossis volunteer, that was exciting, and the "Orange
Bedder" Cheiranthus. Rather distressed by the Yarrows popping
up in the bare spot in the lawn. I tossed out some "Meadow Foam"
seeds (Limnanthes douglasii?) a few years ago, so far it has
been reseeding splendidly. It's the variety with the yellow center,
so cheery I wish it would last longer each spring.

Found some very-maroon pincushions growing by the railroad tracks, and
brought home the seeds to grow and interbreed with the other
volunteers. Pried a grass seedling (the very large, red-leaved
ornamental) out of a crack in the sidewalk next to a yard where the
owners seemed to have drastically reduced their care. It's doing very
well, and I'm looking forward to more volunteers to share.  Helped
myself to a seedhead of a delightfully double Rudbeckia not far from
there, want to see if the doubleness might spread.  Even got a Leonotis
leonaris going the same way.  I'm a shameless thief, somewhat, but I
never take it all, and I give a lot away!

Best find, just today! A corkscrew rush seedling, growing my the
overflow drain from my pondlet!

Worst: the former inhabitants must have had some ornamental Oxalis. One
of them has "escaped".  Nearly impossible to eradicate, and now it's
spread to my neighbors strawberries! Seems to harbor a bright-orange
fungus, and it has dozens of tiny bulblets every time you let it grow 2
or 3 leaves! At first, I let it flower, charming pale pink. No more!
Organization: Psychology, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 13:01:41 -0400 
From: Alice R Siegler <as4r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Pruning Raspberry Bushes
	<1992Sep29.190457.14486@cs.rochester.edu>
Distribution: usa

Many rasberry bushes produce rasberries twice a year - once in the
spring and once in the fall.  Usually one crop is bigger than the other,
but it's nice to have two crops.  If you cut down all your rasberry
stalks, you may just have the fall crop - that's what happened when we
did it.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: tmcintyr@nyx.cs.du.edu ()
Subject: Seed viability
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 92 11:26:43 GMT


Just joined this group so bear with me if this is a redundant ?...
I have a packet of tobacco seeds of the nicotiana glauca varity, a
tree-like perennial,
and the seeds must be 3 t0 4 years old now...I do intend to try 
germination next spring, but would like to know if there is any
hope after such a long wait?
From: cf549@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jim Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: ficus plants
Date: 5 Oct 1992 02:10:18 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


My sister in law recently moved to another state. She gave me a very healthy
ficus tree. In a short few months, it has become a half naked mess. I happened to see this listing and thought someone out there might have some suggestions.
If this is not the appropriate place for a posting of this nature, please feel
free to forget you saw it. Thanks.

Jim Baker    San Antonio
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Thug repellant
Date: 18 Sep 92 14:13:30 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes:

 > Besides video cameras and lawsuits, you might try a fence
 > of Rosa Multiflora.  This grows to an impenetrable fence
 > in a few years or less.  Some states (West Virginia comes 
 > to mind) prohibit its import however so make sure you
 > can bring it into California..........................

                              [TEXT DELETED]

You do NOT want to plant any multiflora rose. It can very easily take over
most, if not all, your garden & lawn. Eradicatting this pest is next to
impossible. It's been declared a noxious weed in the state of Kansas.

		Bob Batson
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: charlie@lindy.Stanford.EDU (Charlie Channel)
Subject: Help:  Lemon Leaves Turning Yellow
Organization: Stanford U
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:53:31 GMT

I planted a lemon tree, a little one, about 2 years ago.  I think it's
a Meyer lemon tree (?).  It finally started producing nice lemons,
however they don't seem to be turning yellow.  Also, the leaves are
turning yellow.  We fed the thing.  Anybody know what's up and what
should I do?

C
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Hawaiian wood rose--sources desired.
From: strauss@uncavx.unca.edu
Date: 30 Sep 92 08:44:00 -0500
Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville
Nntp-Posting-User: strauss

Many year ago, in Binghamton, NY, I saw a wonderful house plant. The common
name was Hawaiian Wood Rose, and it is a memeber of the morning glory family
(Ipomaceae?).  At any rate, I'd love to find a source, in the US, if possible,
for this plant. I think that Thompson & Morgan used to offer seeds for it.
Any leads would be appreciated.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++           Bob Strauss            ++
++         Ramsey Library           ++
++          UNC-Asheville           ++
++       Asheville, NC 28804        ++
++       Strauss@UNCA.bitnet        ++
++     Strauss@uncavx.unca.edu      ++ 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kk@mcnc.org (Krzysztof A. Kozminski)
Subject: Orange roots - what tree has such ?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 02:20:46 GMT

While digging in various places around the perimeter of my house, I
invariably find some bright orange roots and am curious what tree they
might belong to.  The color does not seem to depend on the root
thickness: whether it is a 1-inch or 0.5mm diameter it is orange.  The
roots to extend waaay beyond the drip lines of any trees.  Gentle
excavations in the trunk vicinities of assorted trees failed to
identify the owner of the roots (hmm, maybe it is the house itself that
sprouted them ?-)

The trees nearest to the root finding sites are mostly sweetgums and
tulip poplars, some kind of a birch (river birch ?), mulberry (?) and
an unidentified cypress-like thing.  They all seem to be large enough
to send the roots to the distance of 40-50 feet.

Does any of the above sound likely to be the culprit of the orange
underground mess?

KK
-- 
"Limit congressmen to two terms.  One in office.  One in jail."
From: lamunyj@jacobs.CS.ORST.EDU (James Lamunyon)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mushroom growing kits/spawn sources
Date: 28 Sep 92 00:52:34 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Outreach Services - Oregon State University


     Someone this past week posted a request for mushroom growing sources.
I have a friend that's into fungi so I asked him and he gave me this
source:

	Fungi Perfecti
	P.O. Box 7634
	Olympia, WA 98507

	Phone: (206)-426-9292
	Fax:   (206)-426-9377

      The brochure I saw of my freind's listed about 20 different variaties
including shiitake, enokitaki and reishi mushrooms.  Both kits and/or spawn
are available.  As I do not myself grow mushrooms I can not give any
guidance, but the brochure also indicates books, supplies and advice are
available from these folks.

	
	-James LaMunyon
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pineapple...  Kay, are you reading this thread?
Date: 25 Sep 92 03:06:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

The technique I have been shown at >1 Japanese veggie market was
to pull on one of the innermost, top leaves, if it pulls out, it's
ripe. That plus the smell. Don't know if it works with fruits still
on the plant, but has good success with picking good 'uns at the
store.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens