HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: wiring a 6-volt flasher
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1992 09:34:44 -0500

 RF> I tried putting the power on the `X' pin and the light on the `L' pin,
 RF> with no luck.  I've also tried a dozen variations, all without getting
 RF> the light to flash.  Questions:
 RF> 
 RF>    1.  How do I wire this as the equivalent of a two-wire flasher?
 RF>        If, as I expect, the `P' pin is for a pilot light, what size
 RF>        resistor can I substitute?

Just a guess: "P" stands for "Power" (+6v from ignition lead), "X" stands for
turn signal switch, and "B" is an extra lead for the signal lamp on vehicles
that don't have separate left/right pilot lamps.

 RF>    2.  Could my experimenting have `cooked' the flasher?

Doubtful. But it could have been defective from the start.

 RF>    3.  Would a 12-volt 2-wire flasher work on a 6-volt system?

Possibly. But even if you could find one that works on reverse polarity, the
flash rate would drop substantially.
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: TH700R4 questions
Date: 16 Oct 92 13:58:24 GMT

I have been thinking about installing a TH700R4 in my 82 Cutlass
Supreme.  I am wondering if anybody can add some facts to my data
base.

I know I need to move the tranny support, and get a new drive shaft.
I know that I need to get the 6.2L diesel control module for the TH700
lockup, and I know that I need to wire the braking unlock as shown in
Hot Rod a while back.  I also know I need to buy the BOP to Chevy
tranny kit from TCI.  Yeah, and my shifter will not read correctly.

Should I install the high speed no kickdown spool valve if I install
my kickdown cable?

If I do not install the kickdown cable, will there be any problems?
Currently, I have a TH350 with the kickdown disconnected on purpose --
I like it that way and want the TH700 to be similar.  

Any thoughts about speedometer drives?

Any TH700 lore or references would be welcome.

Please do not tell me about the TH200R4 -- it will not stand up to the
torque I am making.
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: brein@gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Barry S. Rein)
Subject: Logic module repair
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 00:16:34 GMT

I have a 1987 Plymouth Sundance, 2.2 l turbo.

Now that the cylinder head has been replaced I am still having a problem
with an intermittent stall. Once in a while when the car is warm it will
miss, cough and sputter, then stall.  This can happen while driving or
idling.  After a minute it will usually start and run reasonably well until
the next time.

My mechanic has traced the problem to a loose connection inside (he says)
the logic module.  Apparently he drove the car around with a laptop
computer hooked up to the car.  When it stalled the error code pointed to a
loss of the ground signal to the logic module, at least that's what he
said.

He also said that his computer was cleared out by this fault.  Normally it
is supposed to store the last 50 error codes.

Has anyone experienced this problem?  Is there any chance of rummaging
around inside the module and fixing it myself?  Or, failing that, can I
spend less than $350 by buying a rebuilt or used logic module?

******************************************************************************
*                               Barry Rein                                 
 *
*                        brein@dsfvax.jpl.nasa.gov                         
 *
******************************************************************************
*                              No clever comment.                          
 * 
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 16:41:28 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.181050.14845@cabot.balltown.cma.COM>, welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:

[ O2 sensor longevity discussion deleted]
 
|> a car with a bad o2 sensor will tend to run rather badly; you can check
|> if the o2 sensor is the problem by disconnecting the sensor wire and
|> grounding the wire going to the ECU, which will cause the motor to run
|> full rich.  the motor should run better immediately, but will probably
|> fail to pass any emissions testing with the sensor wire crowbarred like
|> this.  leaving the ECU wire hanging unconnected will make the motor run
|> full lean; this is not recommended.
|> 

[O2 sensor failure discussion deleted]
 
|> richard
|> -- 
|> richard welty                            518-393-7228
|> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
|>   ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
|>     -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck


Sometime back there was discussion on how to use a universal three-wire O2
sensor as exhaust gas analyzer.  I have a CO analyzer and would like to be 
able to measure O2 output as well.  

The above post infers that a O2 sensor outputs low voltage readings when it
detects lean engine exhaust (lots of free O2) and that grounding the ECU input
(forcing it to 0 volts) tells the computer to richen the mixture.

I have done some bench testing on a three-wire universal O2 sensor (trying to
figure how it works without any datasheet)  The results *seem* to agree with
the earlier post but I have a couple questions:

Conditions : Bench test (in air)
                               
   A small fan simulating an exhaust(air) flow causes the sensor to output about
   0.20 to 0.25 volts indicating lean. (seems logical to me)

   Shutting off the fan caused the voltage output to increase to about 0.9 volts.
   Q1:Why would flow rate affect output? 
   Q2:Does the sensor *need* a steady flow of gases to sample correctly?


Any info appreciated...

Thanks,

Ericy
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: WATER Injection Any Users ?!
Keywords: injection, engines, cars
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:42:05 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <4127@sicsun.epfl.ch> boutzev@lcaohp1.epfl.ch writes:
>Time ago while I had enoughfree time to run trough the news
>I wondered whatever became of the water injection and 
>you folks from the net provided me with your 
>impressions. Thanks a lot because this urged me into a great
>decision:
>	-I'm about to build one.....
>
>There are at least some details I'll like to know from the ones
>using this trick on their cars and here I go:
>
>-What are the advantages of the water injection ?
>-Does the water injection harm the engine even if all parameters are set OK ?
>-Did the milleage increase ? Or decrease ?
>-What's about the emissions ?
>
>Any other comments are welcome BECAUSE I've already ordered the
>injectors, pump and other hardware and I'm currently working
>on the control unit.
>Live testings are intended before the end of the year and this is about the
>non-return point beyond which I can either obtain some 
>extras or screw up my engine....
>I'm planning to run some tests on a 80cc 4-stroke Briggs&Stratton petrol
>engine currently fitted on a generator. 
>The success of these tests will condition the final implementation on my 
>LandCruiser (Diesel, 4.0L TurboCharged).
>
>Thanks in advance !

The main purpose of water injection is to allow high compression engines to
run on lower quality fuel with less detonation. Your B&S engine ain't got
enough compression to waste time testing water injection upon. Your diesel
engine MUST have detonation to run (that's what ignites the diesel in the first
place). An ideal engine to experiment with water injection is one of the old
high compression muscle cars from the late 60's like a small block Chevy with
12.5:1 compression ratio. For an engine with water injection, you must change
the oil more often since all the blowby gases past the piston rings contain
so much more water vapor(obviously) and will contaminate the oil faster.
Benefits include very clean piston tops, combustion chambers/valves since the
hefty load of steam produced in the cylinders blasts them clean constantly.
You'll likely get worse gas mileage since the water will remove some heat from
the combustion process and more fuel will need to be burned to get the same 
amount of heat produced to keep the power output of the engine the same as
it was before. I do not know how it will affect emissions. Another thought
for a good test engine would be a late model turbo or supercharged engine 
with high boost pressure since they detonate like crazy on poor gas too.

=============================================================================
Neal Howard (neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org)        CompuTrac, Inc. (Richardson,TX)
DoD #686   '91 XLH-1200      '70 Kawasaki G4-100cc    '69 Cougar XR7-GT390
=============================================================================
From: vwp@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (mark.a.skala)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AIR COOLED
Date: 7 Oct 92 16:34:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsk.1992Oct7.163458.20082
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <81i0RB1w164w@admiral.uucp> serpent@admiral.uucp (Eric Lanier) writes:
>  Greets, does this group reach anybody in Germany?  I'm looking for info
>about high performance products for VW type-4 engines to mainly go into a
>Beetle.
> 
> Eric
>
>--
>serpent%admiral.uucp@yale.edu (Eric Lanier) <yale!admiral!serpent>
>The Admiral's Public UNIX - Greenwich, CT - System Administrator: Doug Fields
>(HST/V32) (203)661-2873 -- (PEP/V32) -1279 -- (V32) -0450 -- (V29/MNP6) -2967
>>FREE!< Unix shell accounts, Usenet access, and Internet-style mail available

Look in any issue of 'Hot VW's' and whatever the current name is for the
'VW, Porsche, etc' magazines.  You will find numerous vendors for type IV
parts.  Type IV engines also went into Porsche 914's.

Mark A. Skala                            "Please conserve paper; write on
vwp@cbnewsk.att.com                       all six sides before recycling."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 20:34:34 GMT

In article <BvvHJJ.9qK@ssesco.com> elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist) writes:
>
>I'm wondering if I can disconnect the sensor and fake a nominal Vout
>using a battery and a couple resistors (or a pot)...  If they have a 0v
>to 1v range, can I feed .5v say, into the computer in place of the O2 sensor
>and see if the idle behaves differently (better maybe) ?  Or is the output

Wouldn't feeding the ECU 0.5V fool it into believing the mixture is
optimum already, which might not be the case? I believe Richard's
suggestion of grounding the wire is probably a more stable test.

>It would be nice to diagnosis the O2 sensor as bad before trying to pull 
>it out...

You can hook a voltmeter to its output and observe how fast it reacts
when hot. Should fluctuate between 0.4 to 0.7 V at a fairly brisk
rate. Introduce unmeasured air into the system by pulling the dipstick
or the oil filler cap, and see if the voltage drops immediately. Sluggish,
or no response, should be fairly indicative of a non-functioning sensor.

-h
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: over charging battery
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:35:30 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.034258.15175@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon) writes:
>In article <1992Oct12.062637.14627@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu>
>shinh@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu (Shinjiro Hirose) writes:
>
>> So, does anyone know
>> if my voltage regulator can be stuck in the "on" position?
Yes. It's very  possible.
>> The one time I've dealt with voltage regulators, they didn't
>> let enough charge through.  Can they fail in the opposite manner?
>
>Well, it is not really an on/off thing.  A voltage regulator simply
>dissipates power stemming from voltage over a specified limit.  It
>
Not exactly. The regulator controls the alternator output by controlling
the field current via addition/subtraction of resistance in the circuit.
It doesn't ditch excess power generated - it controls how much power is
generated, so as to avoid generating excess power.

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu (Paul M Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Holley/Prob Fixed!!!!
Date: 13 Oct 92 02:24:59 GMT
Organization: Sophomore, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

The bozo who rebuilt it put the gasket on upside down.  It was blocking
the hole for the fuelto go to the primaries.  No wonder why the guy said
the carb wasn't running right for his set up.  
Paul
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 05:33:40 PDT
Subject: Re: General question re: old Ford trucks ('70-79)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


   Well I can't answer all your questions but, I would mention that the 
F150 designation didn't come about until about '76 or so. By then they 
were "Unleaded". 
   Also, they built heavy 1/2 ton pick-ups before they went to the 
F150 designation.  One thing you need to look at is which engine you
want to run. Ford ran the 360 cid thru about 76 in the 4x4's and ran
360's,302's,390's, and 351's in the 2 wheel drives and in about 76/78
added the 460, 351m,400c etc...
   After about 73 most of the engines had induction hardened valve seats
to make up for the loss in lead in the fuel. It is to keep the valve seats
from wearing out. 
   If your looking for a F150 4x4 anything around a 77 with a 4 sp and 
part time xfer case would be a good choice.
                Mike Nason

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Subject: The hand brake is not tightened.
Organization: Red Bank, NJ
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 00:11:48 GMT

My car was towed during my recent visit to NYC.   It is a long story
of an innocent man.   The hand brake was engaged while it was being 
towed.  After the incidence, I noticed that the hand brake was not 
working properly.   The car still rolled although I pulled the lever 
as hard as I could.   So I tightened the adjusting nut (by the lever) 
which pulls up the wired core in the cable.  Well, that did not help.
I asked myself, "Did the towing make the brake shoes worn out?"
So I opened the drum to check that out.   The leverage inside the drum was
moving as my wife was pulling the brake lever, but it was apparently not
enough to stop the car rolling.  Brake shoes were still pretty thick,
and were usable as I had them replaced a year ago.  And it is less than
10kmiles since I replaced the shoes.

Is there any way to tighten the hand brake?   My car is '86 mazda 323.
I need to have my car inspected in a week.  Yeah.  NJ inspects all cars
once a year.   BTW, I had the same problem last year.   But at that time, 
changing the brake shoes solved the problem.

Many thanks in advance.

	Hugh

PS: BTW, I successfully changed the front disc pads with the help of net
friends who suggested using a C-clamp.  Thank you, guys.
From: rom@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Rommy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 85 Dodge Aries/Trouble at Idle
Date: 13 Oct 1992 20:03:46 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: rom@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

As the title line states my 85 Aries will run very rough as I slow down to a
stop.  The car is running fine at other speeds but will seem to start to 
misfire & eventually die if I don't stomp on the pedal a little, then it kicks

By the way the air tube which runs from the catalytic conv. up into the engine
compartment has a hole in it at the outlet of the converter but the car ran
without the idling problem for about a year. (Yea I know, but I just figured it
was a small leak in the exhaust pipe.)  However I did buy a replacement tube
from the dealership yesterday & plan on installing it in a few days.
Back to the point, if anyone know why the car may be running (or not running) at
idle please enligthen me.  Once again I am confused because it only does this 
at idle.

Thanks

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: Acvice on Ford 460V8
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 20:15:21 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.170707.24081@unislc.uucp>, wcr@unislc.uucp (William Rankin) writes:
> 
> I am currently buying a 81 Ford van-type motorhome with a 460CID
> (I think) V8.  Does anyone have any experience with this engine and
> the transmission used on these? Is there anything I should be
> alerted to as far as weeknesses or early failures in the power train.
> Any comments are welcome.
Apropos of nothing, I bought a 1978 Ford Station wagon as a used car
some years ago, and kept it for many years.  I guess I did not even realize
it had that huge gas guzzler in it (but I needed a wagon at the time,
and surprisingly there was not much on the market).
That car always seemed underpowered to me, considering my previous wagon
had a 361.  I never did find out if it was the transmission that was
causing the power loss.

Related subject:  In my '78 at least, there was a single obscure point of
electrical grounding for the entire ignition system.  It is a bolt
connection inside the distributor.  If you have trouble, the first thing
you should do is make sure that the connection is clean and tight.

Another crazy trouble, which only my wife had, was an intermittent
ignition.  That was caused by the accelerator pedal partially slicing
the insulation on a group of wires going thru the firewall.

The last time I needed work on that car, I could not get service at any Ford
dealer.  They simply do not keep their manuals past 10 years. 

I am no great mechanic, but it is surprising what one picks up over the
years.  If you do purchase the beast, feel free to communicate.
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Spark plug specs and old cars
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 09:55:08 -0500

 DH> From: harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling)
 DH> 
 DH> I was always under the impression that the heat range was at least
 DH> related to the length of the plug; i.e., how far into the heads they
 DH> extend.  Given the 14's I took out of my car and the 18's I bought to
 DH> replace them to prevent fouling (all other digits being equal), the
 DH> 18's had visibly more length to the threaded section.  This makes
 DH> sense, as putting the plug further into the cylinder will cause it to
 DH> pick up more heat.

Assuming that the original 14s were correct for your car, you should remove the
18s IMMEDIATELY. Using a plug that has a longer threaded portion than your
cylinder head is designed for will ensure, as a minumum, that you will in time
be unable to remove the plugs, due to accumulated deposits in the exposed
threads.

Hotter plugs typically have a longer insulator nose, which can only be seen by
looking inside the metal shell of the plug.
From: cgreen@acsu.buffalo.edu (Charles W Green)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gold Spark Plugs/
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:42:21 GMT
Organization: UB




In article <4170090@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> you write:
>In rec.autos.tech, awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (ClarkKent) writes:
>
>>  We've hear about Bosch Platinum plugs-
>>  I was looking at a auto parts store's sales brochure and
>>  saw Champion Gold plugs.  I sure they're not solid gold, nor that
>>  much more expensive than platinum.  Gold's a great conductor, right?
>>  Any thoughts on these?
>
>Actually gold is *relatively* a poor conductor. 
>
>Here a list of some conductors:
>
>  Material		Resistivity, ohm/centimeter
>
>    Aluminum		  2.83x10^-6
>    Carbon		  3.50x10^-3
>    Copper,(pure)	  1.70x10^-6
>    Gold		  2.44x10^-6
>    Platium		  1.00x10^-5
>    Silver		  1.63x10^-6
>
>Note: The smaller the number, the better the conductor; therefore Silver
>      is the best conductor in the list, and Carbon is the least.  However,
>      Gold is better than Platium.  The main advantage of Gold is that
>      it doesn't tarnish.  Not sure what that buys you, when it comes to
>      sparkplugs.  
>
>Anybody ever seen silver plugs?
>
>>  Adam Edwards
>
>Larry Ferreira









Bosch Makes a Silver plug and it is the ONLY type I use in my Merkur XR4Ti
In my case this has been the only plug that can withstand the boost this 
car produces...I do have some modest mods to the engine, but nothing 
outragous,,,,
The Plugs are expensive.I pay 6-7 bucks a piece but nothing I've tried
works as well under sustained boost as these plugs...


Charlie
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bote@access.digex.com (John Boteler)
Subject: Tires scrape curb--trouble?
Organization: Express Access Public Access UNIX, Greenbelt, Maryland USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 07:49:16 GMT


In a fit of stupidity, I scraped my right front tire
against the concrete curb in front of my house at
about 10 MPH.

My inspection revealed that the sidewall has a small
V-shaped piece of rubber about 0.75 inch on each side
cut into the sidewall.

When I flipped this little flap of rubber up, I could
see the outer layer of belts.

Have I screwed up a perfectly good Michelin? Or is
it possible to get safe life out of it?

-- 

bote@access.digex.com (John Boteler)
From: J.R. Pych
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Sudden loss of power to guages
Summary: Guages quit while driving
Date: 12 Oct 92 17:27:52 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.
Originator: jrp7260@hertz.njit.edu

Greetings fellow netters.

While driving down the highway this afternoon, I glanced at my dashboard
and was surprised to see my gas and coolant guages had quit (they were in
the position they normally are after turning off the ignition).

While I was wondering what could have happened, they suddenly came back
on line (like they do when I turn the ignition on).  This happened several
more times before I arrived at my destination.  A couple of times I tapped
on the plastic cover and they came back on, but I don't know if the tapping
actually caused they to come back on.

The car is a 1988 Nissan Sentra two door sedan.  Never had any electrical
problems before.  Any advice/suggestions as to how I can find the
short/loose connection/whatever before I go tearing the dash apart?

Thanks in advance.

Jeff
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13962 rec.autos:23911
From: jayg@wpi.WPI.EDU (Jay Giurleo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Ford Escort Problems
Date: 13 Oct 92 19:09:21 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu

Hello everyone,

 I own a 1986 Ford Escort.  I was speaking with a mechanic today who
mentioned that at around 60K miles, bad (terminal) things might
start happening to my engine.  Specifically, he mentioned a chronic
problem with timing belts.  Can someone comment on this for me? If this
truly is a problem, what's the best method for fixing it?

 Thanks very much,

  Jay



-- 
                                  
     Jay Giurleo - jayg@wpi.wpi.edu - WPI Box 2080 - Worcester, MA 01609