HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hall@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Michael Hall)
Subject: Geckos
Organization: NASA/ARC Information Sciences Division
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 22:21:22 GMT

Can anyone recommend a tropical gecko to keep in a 30 gallon tall
terrarium with two very large tropical treefrogs?  I need a gecko that
likes temperatures from 60-88 with medium humidity, and that won't inflict
wounds on the frogs, and that won't lose its tail or its life when the
treefrogs pounce on it.

Leopard geckos are out, because they are desert dwellers.  Tokay geckos
and Egyptian geckos are out, because they some of the most vicious animals
on earth.

Any suggestions?

Or would this be like mixing monitors and iguanas?  Should I just forget
about it?

-- 
Michael Hall            \ "Advantage is irrelevant.
NASA Ames Research Center\  Countermeasures are futile."
hall@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov \  -Borg card counter
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Baby Corn Snakes
Keywords: Corn Snake, Feeding
Date: 1 Sep 92 07:41:57 GMT
Organization: Bohemian Inebriation Association


  I had one that was stubborn about eating. I bought a Tupperware container,
small size (about 1 quart) and punched holes in the lid, and put damp peat
moss and vermiculite in it, and kept it warm (96-98 or so) and would give
tiny tiny pinkies, leave them in there overnight and leave the cage totally
undisturbed. That seemed to work pretty well.
	Basically, keep em warm (the Corn Snake book reccomends, I think,
98 degrees or so for babies) and let them have a place to hide, but not
such a large cage that they don't encounter their food. Also, if you 
are offering dead pinkies, cut a hole in the skull so there is a blood-
scent to attract the snake.
 That's what worked for mine, anyway.

 -otter
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Fogging the house
Date: 1 Sep 92 07:51:24 GMT
Organization: Bohemian Inebriation Association
Originator: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu


  Fogging the house: we had a bad flea problem so I bought D-Con foggers, 
packed up the snakes in snake bags and took them out for a vacation
for a few hours, then came back. They are fine. I did not fog them. Do
not worry, Debra. :)

 Mites: I have washed the snake numerous times and cleaned out her entire
cage with a mild bleach solution, but I still think there may be some 
there. They sell a thing to get rid of bird mites (for canaries, budgies,
etc) which is like a round disk thing that hooks onto the outside of
a wire cage. It says it contains some chemical which escapes me now,
very long, starts with a "P"...  would this work? Would it hurt the snake?
It seems that if it wouldn't bother a canary, it shouldn't hurt a python,
but I certainly don't know for sure and I'm hesitant. Someone reccomended
Shell No-Pest strips, but I haven't been able to find these.
 
 Ideas?

 _otter


Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: sclever@nmt.edu (Shawn Clever)
Subject: Zero--Where are you?
Organization: New Mexico Tech
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 01:25:39 GMT

Where is the man who calls himself Zero???


Shawn Clever

.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler)
Subject: Indigo snakes and filters
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 20:12:01 GMT

I was at the zoo the other day and I saw some snakes labelled
Indigo snakes. They were really really black - totally black.

They sort of looked like big black worms. They reminded me of 
ratsnakes with no color.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone knew what they were? Any info?

Also, my lizard, a savannah, always shits in his water-bowl, and
I was wondering if there was any sort of filter set-up I might
use instead of changing his water and sterilizing the bowl by hand.

Perhaps I could set up a bowl with an aquarium filter somehow?

Any suggestion?

Tim
From: dancer@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Mites!
Date: 1 Sep 92 03:29:59 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

About a year ago my Mithras (a burmese) got mites. I ended up going to see
a vet who gave Mithy an injection and then asked to see her/him again in a 
week for another injection. Sorry, I forget what it was.

I also put a no pest strip out on top of the wire cage-top.

In article <1992Aug30.061915.9547@reed.edu>, mojo@reed.edu (a 1928 steel National) writes:
> 
> Of course, mites can't swim too well, so you might just submerge the snake
> (allow a little room to breathe; all the mites will travel to the head, where
> they can hopefully be washed off) in a light Betadine solution.

On the other hand, they hide VERY VERY well under the snakes scales. I'd give
Mithras a bath and sit for an hour gently scraping my fingernail along the
mite-bumps (ie where they were hiding) to squoosh them out and then kill them.
NOT a fun process, for either of us. 

Go see the vet, it may cost more, but the snakes life _is_ at risk, mites can
kill if they get too bad.

---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---*---
Dream Dancer                               dancer@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
aka                                        dancer@acm.rpi.edu
Martha Underwood                             Four cats and a
                                             burmese python
From: wrfisher@cats.ucsc.edu (William Robert Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Indigo snakes and filters
Date: 27 Aug 1992 06:23:16 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu


[ stuff deleted]

On the subject of Sail fins

>Well, I'm not sure exactly what an aquarium filter does.  Does it sterilize
>the water? That's bascially what I'm looking for - something to sterilize
>and filter the water he drinks from. I figure yes, I change the water, but
>sometimes I'm not home for hours after he shits in the bowl, and I'm wondering
>whether he might be spectacularly dumb enough to drink out of it.
>
>He's dumb enough to pull all kinds of stunts... I don't trust him with this
>either.

Me too, I'm not sure.  Having a warm bowl of infested water does not
sound like a good idea.  No matter how often I check, the water is
dirty.  I was planning on converting an Entertainment center into a cage.
This would be about 4' long, 3' high, and 15" deep.  And have a ten gallon
aquarium for its water pleasures.  I will be using a "whisper" power filter.
It hangs on the side of the aquarium, sucks water up through a charcoal 
activated cartridge.  I am sure dyrvm (said lizard) could not get into it,
besides, it uses a magnet to drive it.  I've used this filter many times in
fish tanks and trust it to keep the water clean.  I was also thinking about
adding a few catfish and algae eaters, as Dyrvm shows no interest in eating
fish.  

Any comments/suggestions for both cage or sail fin would be appreciated. 
(Especially info on sail fins, he was an unexpected gift, making it
 lizard # 12.  So I do kind of know something about herps)

>On another sad note, I still can handle him much. In fact, he tried to bite me
the other day... sigh. It seems he gets more skittish the longer I have him. He's been really bad since I moved into my new apartment. Perhaps he is unsettled
>by the new surroundings.

How big or old is he?  I should I get worried my sweet baby lizard is going
to grow up to be the Hydrosaurus amboinensis of death?
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: ftit@engin.umich.edu (Sergej Roytman)
Subject: Re: Rabbit Raising (Was: Re: Growing Ball Python)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 13:27:24 EDT
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor

In article <1992Aug26.164212.21806@Csli.Stanford.EDU> kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut) writes:
|In article <119310012@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave
|"New Wave Dave" Ruska) writes:
|>
|>  [pretty good snipping, huh?]
|
|         Anyway, I don't want to turn this into
|rec.pets.rabbit.raising, but if anyone has some tips/comments about
|rabbit raising, please feel free to e-mail me...
|Thanks
|

Why don't you post to rec.pets.fuzzy?  At the least you should get
an interesting response!

|/'''   Kyle Wohlmut    -  'Heute back ich, morgen brau ich, und       

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
|  ftit@engin.umich.edu   |   "... a stainless steel rat in the       |
|    (Sergej Roytman)     |  ferroconcrete wainscoting of Internet"   |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Say no to four-line .sigs.
From: tracer@milton.u.washington.edu (David Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Mites!
Date: 1 Sep 92 20:46:24 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

This mite question seems to come up every few weeks, and I've posted this
before, but here I go again...

One of the best ways to get rid of snake mites is to use a product sold
commercially as "Neguvon."  It should be available at farm supply/feed
stores or in any case they should be able to order it.  It is generally
used by farmers to get rid of mite & fly problems on livestock.  The
active ingredient in it is "Chlorvos" which is related to and as potent as
the main ingedient in no-pest strips (dichlorvos) but its toxicity is
much lower.  Basically, it is diluted in water according to the
instructions and after removing the herp's water dish, the entire cage
(with the animal still in it) is sprayed down.  I have not yet heard of
any negative experiences with Neguvon - just a lot of happy herp owners
and a lot of dead mites.  
Hope this helps.
David
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: UV light subsistitutes (help)
Date: 26 Aug 92 19:04:48 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

According to everything I have heard and read, my Sailfin requires UV 
light.  What are some signs I should look for incase he is not getting
enough?  What are the health risks involved for the guy if he doesn't
get enough?   

Jon
 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: Rabbit Raising (Was: Re: Growing Ball Python)
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 18:44:16 GMT

kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut) writes:
>  I'm considering going into
>breeding rabbits, but I really -don't- want to get to the point where
>I'm spending more time taking care of the snake's food then the snake
>itself!  Well, before the year is out I may get there (then I'll have
>this vast rabbit supply, so then there will be nothing stopping me
>from getting another Burmese, and then I might as well breed them...
>uh...).  Anyway, I don't want to turn this into
>rec.pets.rabbit.raising, but if anyone has some tips/comments about
>rabbit raising, please feel free to e-mail me...

Guess I'll post this rather than e-mail in case there's more interest
in it than just Kyle (der Kerl der backen, brauen usw. liebt...)

Breeding any small fuzzies is trivial.  Get a male, get a female; have
two cages for them.  Cage should include food dish, watering bottle
and a house of some kind (depending on critter).  Put male and female
together.  When female is plump, remove male to other cage.  When
babies are the right size, "harvest" them.  Repeat until new adults
are needed.

Barron's has good books on any small fuzzy culture including rabbits.
The books cost all of $5 and are worth every penny.  If you have
uptight neighbors you'd better check out the local zoning regulations
for pets.  You may not be allowed to raise rabbits, or there may be
restrictions.  If your neighbors are ok, they probably won't care
regardless of what the regulations are.  If you run a clean operation,
nobody should care at all unless you have a neighbor who hates you and
will do anything to make trouble (like a guy at work who raises
rabbits).
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: New family member
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 04:08:28 GMT

larry@angel.UUCP (Larry Tenbush) writes:

>Last night we had a herp society meeting and the speaker HAD a
>Rhacodactylus trachyrhynchus, well he made a bad mistake he sold
>the little guy to me for 65.00.  Now all I need to do is find a 
>book on him, I have the breeding of geckos book but it only has
>the R. chahoua.  Does any one know of a book?

I finally got around to looking up this beastie in some of my books.
I have the gecko book you refer to and was amazed at the photo of the
R. chahoua - it looks like part of the branch it's on.  How similar
does your lizard look to that one?  I haven't found any other photos
of any other Rhacodactylus species.

Anyway, from my monster Illustrated Atlas of Reptiles etc..., the
entry on R. is as follows:

Genus of the Gekkoniadae.  New Caledonia.  6 species in forests.  From
about 20 to 35 cm.  Strongly built, stout.  Head of most species with
enlarged, very shiny granular scales anteriorly.  Tail relatively
short, used as a prehensile organ and with adhesive pads under the
tip; unusual skin folds across the base.  Fingers and toes webbed.
5-mm-wide skin folds on the head and sides of body.  Mainly shades of
brown with variable markings.  Juveniles often very dark, the adults
sometimes olive-green.  Physiological color chanes possible.

Nocturnal, arboreal geckos that generally hide in hollow trees and
behind tree bark, although they are sometimes seen sunning themselves
during the early morning hours.  Primarily herbivorous, feeding on
Freycinetia fruit.  In captivity they will often accept bananas, also
some arthropods and pink mice.  Mainly egg-layers, but at least R.
trachyrhynchus is ovoviviparous.  A diverse vocal repertoire.  Rarely
kept in terrariums, but should do well in captivity.  Day temperatures
25 to 28 C., not much below 20C at night.

R. trachyrhynchus BOCAGE, 1873.  30 cm.  Enlarged, shiny scales on
front of head.  Tail folds less conspicuous than in R. auriculatus, R.
leachianus.  Ovoviviparous.

-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: tmason@ccscola.Columbia.NCR.COM (Tim Mason)
Subject: Baby Corn Snakes
Summary: How long without eating
Keywords: Corn Snake, Feeding
Organization: NCR Corp, CCSD, Columbia, SC
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:55:47 GMT

I got a couple of hatchling Corn Snakes (Elaphe gutatta) two weeks ago.
Neither will eat.  I got them from two different sources.  Both claimed they
were feeding on pinkies. Well... not for me.  I have them in a temp. 
gradient from 88 F to 76 F.  

When should I attempt force-feeding?  Should I try to catch some anoles to
try?

If you've had similar experiences (and solved them), please tell me what you
did.  I've force fed a snake successfully before, but it was much bigger than
these young corns.  I feel it would be a last resort with snakes this small.
-- 
---------------------------
Tim Mason
Tim.Mason@ccscola.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
From: ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave Ruska)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 17:23:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Growing Ball Python
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp

In rec.pets.herp, kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut) writes:

> In article <119310011@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave
> "I've never met Rula Lenska" Ruska) writes:
> [stuff deleted]
> >...
> >With any luck I'll be able to cross scent another gerbil onto rats.
> >I really don't want to buy gerbils at $4 a swallow from here on out....
> >
> 
> Huh!  Try $10 a swallow for rabbits, if you're -lucky- enough to find
> even that!  There's a farm supply place in Redwood City that the owner
> will occasionally slip me a rabbit for $10 or under, but the going
> rate for bunnies is $19.99.  Sorry, Fafi, but at that price, you can
> wait a few more days... *sigh*

I was getting bunnies for about $10 a piece as well until I stumbled across
a boy and his dad at the local farm supply store. The boy raises rabbits
for spending money. They gave me their number and said to drop by their
farm in a week when their next batch would be weaned. When I went to the
farm the boy said he was "asking" $2 a piece. Sounded like he would
even settle for less! I gave him $11 for 5 bunnies - he was happy, I was
happy, and we both looked forward to repeat business.

If you can't find a local rabbit breeder, consider raising your own.
A cage, a pair of rabbits, and some food (at $7 per 50lbs) would pay
for itself in a hurry at $10 a bunny.

- dave
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Violence in FL???
From: ppugliese@pimacc.pima.edu
Date: 2 Sep 92 02:43:00 -0700

Well the network news showed some clips of people looting & others pro-
tecting the property with various weapons so the *was* something going
on. Definitely not on the scale of the LA imbroglio though.

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: debra@solbourne.com (Debra Frances)
Subject: Re:Iguana for sale
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc.
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:08:46 GMT

A while back, someone had an iguana for sale, and was going to mail a photo
to my friend Jeff in Boulder.  He never got the photo, and lost your phone
number.  Would you email back to me?  Thanks.
                   Debra
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: seedman@iastate.edu (John D Turnipseed)
Subject: Re: iguanas and savannahs together
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:53:19 GMT


	My first response would be "don't do it"  Interaction between the 
two might or might not be a problem, but caging them together is.  First of 
all, they come from completely different climates.  The Savannahs prefer a 
hot, dry climate (95+ floor temperature and extreme low humidity.).  That 
would probably be bad for your Iguana who is from a more tropical climate.

	Also, young Savannah monitors, in Africa, spend most of there time in 
the trees.  They are very adept at climbing.  The difference in size is a
factor.  Savannahs grow quickly in the first year.  I bought a 4 inch long 
savannah in May of last year, he is now over 2ft long and eats rats.  Aside 
from rodents, when a monitor is hungry, he will eat anything, including other 
lizards, even other monitors.  
	
	I have seen posts recently about how iguanas can become territorial.
Monitor lizards seem to be similar.  


Disclaimer :  I have not kept these two types of lizards together, this 
	could depend on the lizard's personalities.  I'm just pointing out 
	the potential problems I see, as requested.


				-=- Seedman

-- BTW: Personally, I'd get the monitor, and lose the Iguana. 

 

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: oaf@serverx.osf.org (Oded Feingold)
Subject: Re: transporting snakes across country...
Summary: Like, no prob
Keywords: cardboard pillowcase styrofoam tape ...
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 23:50:43 GMT

>	Supposedly .. snakes don't survive being X-rayed.
	
Yes they do, in my experience.  Maybe 30 snakes shipped.

Mr. Donoghue, I suggest you ship your snakes air freight: bite the
bullet and pay the tab.  If the snakes aren't worth it to you, sell
them.

Northwest, USair, United, and Delta all take herps, and I've never 
had trouble with American's cargo people either.
    In particular, AA's specs for nonvenomous snakes:
    (American Airlines cargo: 800-227-4622)...
	maybe $56.00 for a 10-lb box
	Snakes must be in cloth sacks tied with an overhand knot.
	Adequate ventilation must be provided.
	Ship in an inner container of wood or plastic, with an outer 
		container of wood or cardboard.
		...
	UA has similar rules.  Cheaper too for nonvenomous ($32.00
		for 10 lbs.)  [UA cargo:  800-631-1500]
	Plan on dropping the snakes off maybe 2 hours ahead of time.
	You can pick them up maybe an hour after your plane lands.


Use a styrofoam box inside a cardboard box:  No heating materials or
anything fancy.

0.  Contact your favorite carrier for direct info.

1.  Label the box	LIVE HARMLESS REPTILES
			   KEEP BOX UPRIGHT
		 NO HEAT, NO COLD, NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT

2.  Poke maybe 12 airholes through both boxes (nested) with a pencil.
	It may be easier to poke from the inside outward.

3.  Water the snakes day or two ahead of time.  A good way to get them
	to drink is dropping them in the tub...

4.  Lay down a folded towel or several thicknesses of absorbent paper
	in the box.

5.  Put the snakes in pillow cases.  Pad them from each other with
	cardboard dividers (not airtight).

6.  Close the box with packing tape.  Chip it.

Cheers,

Oded Feingold  oaf@osf.org     Contractor at  Open Software Foundation
OSF:   11 Cambridge Center     Cambridge,  Ma. 02142    (617) 621-7265
Home:  408 Broadway            Somerville, Ma. 02145    (617) 776-1225
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: debra@solbourne.com (Debra Frances)
Subject: Re: Rough (?) green snake inquiry <again>... te deum
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:39:35 GMT

Rough green snakes often come in highly parasitized.  Any stress at all often
is too much for them to cope with under those conditions....
                       DEBRA
From: 71162.3470@CompuServe.COM ("Peter P. Donohue")
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: transporting snakes across country...
Date: 1 Sep 92 03:23:07 GMT


    I am going to need to transport my snakes across the country in a
few weeks.  I called up American Airlines and they said they only carry
certain animals (mostly the cute, fuzzy types), of which snakes weren't
on the list.  I am now running through other options for transporting
them.  I'd be interested in hearing of any comments on these options. 
Please email replies (I don't have a regular way of reading Usenet
articles).
   To start, I am bringing 8 snakes with me.  They range in size from a
pair of newborns to about 4'.  Unfortunately, there is a couple of kings
in the group, so I need to use a few separate containers.  I do have
snake bags that could be used.  I also have a box made for shipping live
animals that would help control the temperature, and can include those
small chemical heating packets (often sold as hand warmers that you put
inside your glove).

Options:
   1) shipping them air frieght - positives: I know it can be done- the
wholesalers all use this method.  Negative: expensive ($40+-) and
requires someone to be at both the origin and destination airports.
   2) sneaking them on as carry-on luggage.  Positive: they stay with
me, no questions about care.  negatives: may get caught, have to go
through x-ray
   3) packing them well and checking them in the hold.  Positive: go
with me, no timing problems.  Negative: who knows what goes on in
luggage compartment (may go through scanners, may get crushed, may not
be temperature controlled, etc.)
   4) carry them with me when I drive accross the country.  Positive: no
charges at all.  Negative: I'm planning on taking about 2 weeks - that's
a long time for them to be in transit.  Temp may vary greatly, etc.

   Well, any ideas on which is the best one to use?  The flight would be
this weekend, or the drive a couple of weeks after that.

					Pete
From: vmh@vmh.Eng.Sun.COM (Valerie Haecky)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Chinese box turtle anyone (or other box turtles)
Date: 31 Aug 92 18:20:09 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: vmh

Yesterday, at the BAARS BAzaar, I acquired a Chinese
Box turtle. I have read devVosjoli's booklet, and
as most of you know, this is not my first turtle,
but my first box turtle. 

I am interested in hearing, what indoor setups other
people use, especially what substrates.

I am currently using newspaper, which is hygenic, but
not ideal. 

I am also looking for a way, to only change the substrate
every two days instead of twice a day as I do now.

Anyone used Peat Moss ?


Valerie


--
                 __                               
     _______    /*_>-<       Valerie Haecky           _ ^---^ 
 ___/ _____ \__/ /           vmh@vmh.sun.com         <_|-----)> 
<____/     \____/                                       v---v 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp