HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Mike Hughes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Crankshaft pulley
Date: 14 Aug 92 05:34:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maryland


Other methods might include:

	Fill the number 1 cylinder with ~1/4 cup oil @ 10deg ATDC, then put 
spark plug back in.

	Stop the fly wheel from turning by wedging something in the starter
teeth.

	Get a tall narrow pole, and with the breaker-bar on the nut, 
stick the pole down the spark plug hole and use a ramming action to push
the piston down.  You might want to wrap some electrical tape on the tip
of the pole so you don't scratch the piston.

	Brace the breaker-bar as before, roll the car down a nice hill
with the clutch in and the stick in reverse, then pop the clutch at the
moment of peak velocity.

	Using a large hammer and cold chisel, remove the bolt by striking
the corner of your left toe.

	Secure the breaker bar to the car as usual.  Using a hairspray 
bottle, introduce a combustable mixture into the spark plug hole.
Quickly replace the spark plug, connect the plug wire, and hook the primary
side of the ignition up to the wall outlet.

Sorry, but it's been so long since I posted I got a little silly-Mike

:Suicidal Tendencies=====> He's a carrier of death a stork in reverse,        :
: =8^) Mike Hughes  =8^( : he blesses you with sickness cause love is a curse.:
:Mail---floyd@eng.umd.edu: The arsenic in your Koolaid, the bomb in your mail,:
:Voice--(301) 340-0922   : he disappears in motion but leaves a bloody trail. :
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
Subject: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 14:16:44 GMT

I have a 90 Escort GT and along with every other problem I have had with
the car it now has started idleing? around 1600-1800 rpms when the car is
very well warmed up. You have to be sitting at a stop in netrual with your
foot off the clutch, if it clutch is engaged the idle drops to normal.

So far the dealer has replaced the throttle sensor and that made no difference
they suggested the oxygen sensor and 
I replaced that and that made no difference.

The dealer has had the car for as long as I can afford to leave it with them
and they just want to replace parts randomly until they can hit the right one
I can't afford that. I did get my $130.00 back when it continued racing after
the throttle sensor was replaced..


Help......

Thanks
From: markr@eye.com (Mark Reichert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: BMW Brake Caliper Leak
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 20:54:03 GMT
Organization: 3D/EYE, Inc.  Ithaca, NY

[I tried to reply by mail - that failed. This is semi-generic bmw tech
 info anyways, so I hope no one minds.]


	You might try one of the following places for the caliper seal:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------	
Greenfield Imported Auto Parts	Greenfield, MA	413-774-2819
Bavarian Auto Service		Newmarket, NH	800-535-2002
Bimmer Parts			Potsburg, PA	215-326-3502
Noble Foreign Auto Parts	Bayside, NY	718-423-5557	(info)
						800-327-6302	(orders)
Miller & Knorburn		Durham, NC	919-596-9309
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------	

	Also Roundel, the BMW car club of america magazine, carries lots
	of advertisers. Let me know if you'd like membership info. I think
	it's only $30/year - well worth it.

	There is a bmw mailing list that gets some good 2002 traffic.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
# to post to the list
alias	bmw		bmw@balltown.cma.com
# to subscribe, etc...
alias	bmw-request	bmw-request@balltown.cma.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mark Reichert
markr@eye.com
607-257-1381

ps. I also have a '76 2002.
From: enns@waterloo.hp.com (Roger Enns)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subaru billows white smoke...
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:22:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: waterloo.Bt8D21.D2B
Organization: HP Panacom Div Waterloo ON Canada
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL5

Regarding your Subaru, you mentioned that it seemed low on
compression?  What makes you suspect this?  If this is true, then
the previous response is most likely the answer.  However...
I had a 1985 Subaru GL-10 that had a problem with leaky intake
manifold gaskets.  When the gasket between the manifold and the
cylinder head fails, it allows coolant to flow from the system in
to the engine.  The coolant flows continuously through passages
in the manifold to prevent icing.
What I suspect is this:  gasket fails and allows some coolant to
flow into the intake ports on engine.  Engine starts, sputters
and stalls as it gags on the initial dose of coolant.  Subsequent
restarting allows you to run the engine, although coolant is
being constantly injested by the engine, creating the white
smoke.
Take a look on your engine, to see if you can see any moist areas
around where the intake manifold meets the cylinder head.  If so,
then this is your problem.  I had to do the replacement twice on
my car.  The parts cost a total of about $3.00.  The dealer
quoted me $200.00 to do the job, as there is a fair bit of
labour.
If after inspection, you find that the above mentioned problem
exists, and want to fix it yourself, send me e-mail and I'll try
to be of more help.

Good Luck,
Roger Enns


--
Roger Enns (enns@waterloo.hp.com) Panacom Automation Division, HP
C-GIIV Dragonfly, 1979 RX7 13B, 1985 Colt, 1984 Interceptor 500
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 23:45:25 GMT

Re: Spark plug wire help

I meant no distributor...  not alternator.  I'm just a bundle of laughs
today...

--Tom--
From: rog@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Roger Haaheim)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subaru billows white smoke...
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:48:50 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA

"White smoke" can be steam which would mean that the seal
(head gasket) between the water jacket and cylinder has
been breeched.  Have you been using a lot of water lately?
Is it rusty?  Are you rich?:^(
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Removing headrests
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:33:00 GMT


	"Can anybody tell me how to do that on my near-basemodel '87 Celebrity
2.8? Wagon?"

From the shop manual, p. 9A-12 (how come you don't have one?):

1. Raise head restraint to full-up position.

2. Insert lock release tool (ah, there's always a tool, isn't there) down front
surface of head restraint post until it stops.  Push the head restraint and
tool fully downward at the same time, then lift restraint out of the seatback.

3. To install head restraint, insert post into guide and push downward to
full-down position.  Check that lock sptring engages and prevents head
restraint from being removed.

About this tool, they say, "To remove single-post head restraints, use head
restraint lock releasing tool BT-7933 or fabricate one from 0.4 mm (1/64")
flexible steel strap (Fig. 23).  The flat surface of this tool will release
tthe spring lock tab."

Fig. 23 shows a rectangular strip 6" long and 1 1/16" wide.  One end is curled
270 degrees into a handle.  The other end has its corners cut off diagonally
starting 3/8" from the end, tapering to a width of 5/8" at the very end.

By the way, I take back everything nice I said about the 2.8L MFI.  The "V-6
from Hell" left me stranded in a parking lot yesterday (ironically, as I was
leaving a parts store getting a part to fix my wife's car).  Cranked, wouldn't
start, no codes set.  Since it's under 50K miles, I had it towed to a nearby
Chevy dealer.  It should be covered under the emissions warranty.  We'll see.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:11539 rec.motorcycles:28312
From: davet@loowit.wr.tek.com (Dave Tharp CDS)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Coil impedance ?
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:29:29 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Tektronix - Colorado Data Systems, Englewood, CO

In article <1992Aug21.172655.5614@PA.dec.com> skk@gsg.pa.dec.com (Stuart Kreitman) writes:
>My question relates to a BMW motorcycle's electronic ignition system.
>
    (BMW ignition stuff deleted)

   There are various dual-plug ignition setups for various BMW models.
Dyna makes .7 ohm ignition coils that are meant to be wired in series
("6 volt coils") and 1.5 ohm coils ("12 volt coils") that are meant to
be wired between battery and ground.  The .7 ohm coils are used when
points or a single ignition pickup (Dyna or stock BMW) is used with the
amplifier box (it contains a transistorized amplifier, not a
transformer).  These systems fire all four spark plugs at the same time.
Since one  or the other of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke at the
time, the extra sparks are wasted on exhaust gases.
   The other setup (Dyna III) uses a dual ignition pickup and an
amplifier box that contains _two_ amplifiers.  This system drives 1.5
ohm coils alternately, firing only the cylinder that needs it.
   They Dyna III is not available for later model R-bikes that have
factory electronic ignition.  If you own a '81 or later, you're stuck
firing all four plugs at once, using the stock BMW ignition pickup, and
the single channel amplifier box.
   Stock BMW ignitions use two six-volt car type coils, which can be 
directly replaced with Bosch blue 6-volt Volkswagen coils.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Dave Tharp                      | DoD #0751   | "You can't wear out       |
| davet@loowit.WR.TEK.COM         | MRA #151    |   an Indian Scout,        |
| '88 K75S  '48 Indian Chief      | AHRMA #751  |  Or its brother the Chief.|
| '75 R90S(#151) '68 CB450(#751)  | AMA #524737 |  They're built like rocks |
| '65 R50/2/Velorex  '57 NSU Max  |             |   to take the knocks,     |
|       1938 BMW R12              | (Compulsive | It's the Harleys that     |
| My employer has no idea.        |   Joiner)   |   give you grief."        |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: quad4 head
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:19:00 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network


bad news:  my 89 grand am with quad4(36k miles) starts running rough and 
blowing white smoke out the exhaust and coolant light comes on.  take to
dealer...head cracked or warped or gasket ruined.  car is 3 months out of
warranty.

good news:  pontiac decides to do work as warranty since my car was barely
out of warranty with low mileage and they have had quad4 engines do this.
apparently the cooling channels in the head allow airpockets to form and 
hot spots develope which cause trouble over time.  anyway...at least i only
eat the $100 deduct and that is all.

anyone else have head trouble with the quad4?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Stuck oil plug,and easyouts-problems
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 17:49:29 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <BsvAB9.387@brunel.ac.uk>, Peter.Hammond@brunel.ac.uk (Peter D Hammond) writes:
|> eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
|> : In article <memo.566193@cix.compulink.co.uk>, dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths) writes:
|> : |> > For extra credit:  how do you think they made tubes of tungsten, 6" long by
|> : |> > 1/8" diameter (and bigger sizes)?
|> : |> 
|> : |> Same way you make most tungsten parts - powder sintering. Take a
|> : |> handful of powdered tungsten, pour it into a heated die & compress it
|> : |> *hard*.
|> : Nope.
|> 
|> Why do you say they were not made by a powder metal route? 

Because the guy who worked for that company told me that they made them by
taking rod of tungsten about 3/4" in diameter by 6" long, drilling a hole
lengthwise through it with a diamond drill, filling the hole with a brass
rod, heating it, hammering it out until it was very long and skinny, cutting
it into rods of the appropriate length, and melting the brass out.  Of course
that was quite some time back, so I suppose by now they may use this powdered
metal business that's been described here.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, I love you.  But I love Mommy more because you're a little bit silly."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe)
Subject: Re: rear-end bearings
Reply-To: jimo@navaho.UUCP (25656-o'keefe,james j)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 19:02:21 GMT

In article <16846A62E.R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu> R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu writes:
>
>     I hope I don't insult anyone anyone by posting this - I'm not
>sure if it's come up or not yet.
> 
>      GM uses 2 *different* styles of rear axels.  On one type
>by removing 4  bolts inside the brake backing plate you can remove
>the axel shaft.  The bearings are pressed onto the axel shaft.  Then
>you can trot up to your favorite parts store and have them press
>new bearings onto your shafts.  Thease are the *easy* ones to
>replace.  I've seen more than on person pull 'em in the store
>parking lot, have the new ones pressed on, then reinstall the shaft
>and drive home - job done.
> 
> 
>     The second type is a little more difficult.  You must remove the
>cover from the differential and pull the "C" clips that hold the
>axel shafts in.  On this type the bearings are pressed into the
>axel tube and you need a special puller to yank them out and then
>a tool to install the replacements.  This is not a hard job, either,
>put a little more involved due to the necessary partial dissasembly
>of the differential and the need for some not-so-common tools for the
>bearing replacement.
> 
>    Hope this clears the air a little
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Bob Martel               |
>bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
>R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu  |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
>                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob,

Thanks for clearing that up.  I have the second type with the "C" clips.
Do you think I may need an axle-puller tool to remove the axle?

-- Jim
From: rqerce@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (david ercegovic)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need GM Kelsey Hayes Antilock Brake Insight
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:43:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I believe I am experiencing a failure on the Rear Wheel Antilock
brake system on my 90 Full Size Chevy Blazer.  There is some ~10%
braking action on the rear.  When I jack up the back and take the 
engine 300 RPM off idle you cannot stop the rear wheels from spinning
with the hydraulic system, though the emergency brake will stop them.

There are no brake warning lights on, I dumped the brake computer
memory and no error codes have been set.  I bled the system.

I checked the pressures in the system under the following conditions
and pressing real hard on the brake pedal.  When I measured the pressure
I disconnected all the stuff downstream of the place I made the 
measurement.  I find it hard to believe that 800 psi is really reaching the 
rear wheels when the system is plumbed up.

                                        no vacuum assist   with vacuum

output of master cyl for rear              300 psi            1300 psi

output of proportioning valve              300 psi             800 psi

output of rear wheel antilock
brake valve manifold*                      300 psi            ~800 psi

*conditions were with the brake computer disconnected.

The rears wont brake though under any conditions.  I have tried with the
brake computer electrically disconnected from the valve manifold, 
and with it connected.

If anyone can provide some in depth insight I would shure appreciate it.  
Also if anyone understands the specifics of how the Kelsey Hayes dump 
valve and isolation valve works hydraulically I would appreciate that.

Sincerely,  Dave      Phone 216.433.2558

..Standard Disclaimer   ...I Know 'Nuttin!   ...<><
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Tire speed ratings ?
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
     <1992Aug14.191908.9154@mcs.anl.gov> <1992Aug14.194008.292@ziff.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 16:19:01 GMT

Re: Tire speed ratings ?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gwb@philabs.philips.com (Gert Bruning)
Subject: '87 GN Exhaust system question
Summary: New long case Walker Super Dynomax Mufflers
Keywords: Long Case Mufflers
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff Manor, NY.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 12:03:00 GMT

Recently I read about the new long case super turbo dynomax mufflers, which,
with some work, can be installed in the GN. The advantage over the 14"
long mufflers of the same line is supposed to be noise reduction. Is there
anybody who has tried these on an '87 GN (with catalytic converter) and
stock headers? 

Also I noticed that there are now low restriction catalytic converters in
the market ( I think also by Walker). Their case seems much shorter than
the stock converter. Will these new converters really do an equal or better
job in knocking down emissions?

Gert
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Clutch problem
Date: 19 Aug 92 07:13:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: mr.1992Aug19.071353.20266
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


One possible problem, which I've run into, is that the air bubbles can travel 
back up the lines between pumps.  This means you can pump forever, but won't
get anything done, as the bubbles will stay there.

My method is to use a valve-stem from an old bicicle tyre, and a modified cap
for the clutch master cylinder.  I fill the resevoir, open the bleed valve
(with hose on it into a cup to collect the old gunk), and pump with a bicicle
tyre pump.  This way, you keep the new fluid flowing, and don't give the bubbles
a chance to 'float' back up the lines.

I wouldn't reccomend a compressor, as 100psi of air might make it go a bit 
quicker than you want......

Good luck.  It's not too tricky, and it beats tying to find another person
to help.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Synthoil - better than Mobil 1???
Date: 17 Aug 92 14:55:54 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

I saw a story on a car show on TV praising Synthoil 100 as the ultimate 
motor oil.  It sounded like a paid commercial to me, and I don't really 
buy their claim that it's safe to use for 50,000 miles without changes 
(I change my Mobil 1 every 3000 miles).  Does anyone have more info on 
this Synthoil?  They were talking about polymer additives and other 
strange things.
Thanks
Peter

_____________________________________________________________________
Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
Micro-Information Center              | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
Madison Academic Computing Center     | 608-263-7744
1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 | 
______________________________________|______________________________
From: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: For sale: New Oil filter relocating kit for Ford/Chrysler $20
Date: 23 Aug 92 16:12:09 GMT
Organization: UCSB Physics Department


Oil Filter Relocation Kit for sale
 - new, unused
 - includes all required hardware (except oil filter)
 - uses 3/4-16 thread spin-on filter (such as Fram PH-8A or HP1)
 - Fits:
      Ford '57-'88 6 cyl 
      Ford '57-'88 V8
      Ford 2.0L and 2.3L
      Chrysler 2.2L
      Chrysler 6 cyl and V8 w/ disposable filters thru '88

  I paid $40 and would like to get $20 + shipping for it


                      +-----------------------------------+                    
                      |         Charles R. Meyer          |                    
                      |                                   |                    
                      | Internet: crmeyer@voodoo.ucsb.edu |                    
                      | Bitnet:   crmeyer@voodoo          |                    
                      | HEPnet:   voodoo::crmeyer         |                    
                      +-----------------------------------+                    

From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Spark plug wire help
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 22:32:49 -0500

 DT> And of course you could have a Model-T, without a generator or 
 DT> alternator,
 DT> but it does have spark plug wires, and a battery to run the ignition.

Didn't the Model-T have magneto ignition?



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 08:05:57 GMT


>>I personally feel that he is trying to 'improve' the Mona Lisa with
>>a crayon, however.

>Ya, I bet everyone who has sat on the side of the road while the Lucas,
>Prince of Darkness, lights forgot to suck darkness and the ignition forgot
>what it was supposed to do because the piece of garbage bag wiretie
>some "Fine British Craftsman" used to make the connection rusted in two,
>would have other terms for this "masterpiece" than Mona Lisa.  Anyone who
>has viewed a Triumph crankshaft, a device that markedly resembles a 
>large gutter nail forged with loving care using a 10 pound sledge hammer,
>would concur.

Guys,
	As the "guilty party" re V-8's in Jaguars, let me just say that the 
motivations behind folk in this part of the world (S.A.) to doing such 
engine transplants are two-fold: (1) The price of Jaguar spares locally is 
exhorbitant compared with those for the V-8.  (2)  Despite what seems to be 
the popular image that US automotive manufacturing is source of junk, when 
rebuilding this engine using US sourced components the quality and attention 
to detail is bloody marvellous -- especially when compared with that knocked 
together by Fine British Craftsmen (tm).   E.g compare a set of ignition 
points for a 4.2l Jaguar distributor (good 'ol Joe Lucas!!) with Echelin's 
for a Chevvy V-8.
BTW, the Jag in question has to WORK for a living 7 days a week, and since 
the V-8 transplant has FINALLY done so.  The initial motivation was because 
the Jag engine needed rebuilding and a costing of the parts compared with 
the V-8 route showed it to be uneconomic -- the reliability, power and 
better fuel consumption benefits of the V-8 became apparent as a pleasant 
surprise once the car was put back into service.  
As a car-rebuilder hobbiest, however, I have to agree that taking a sound 
and original car and hacking it around with all sorts of mods and 
conversions is *personally* distasteful  --- Street rods based on a 
perfectly sound orignal car make me want to puke!!

Cheers,
Keith "please-pass-me-a-1/2"-lime-green-Colleen" Coman