HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rlatham@fwhnm02.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com (Mr. Ed)
Subject: Re: Honda factory radio comments? Problems?
Organization: File Cabinet
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 20:19:47 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.163422.9869@b11.ingr.com> gary@rocker.b11.ingr.com writes:
>
>	I have recently purchased a used 1987 Civic, and one of the things
>	I LOVED about the car was the fact that the tape deck sounded awesome
>	(for a factory stereo).  A friend of mine had stated that he had
>	heard that Alpine makes the tape players for Honda (but you can
>	take that with a grain of salt).

When I took the car back to the dealership for the bad radio problem
and a cruise control problem, the service rep told me that Alpine
does make some of the units, along with Clarion and some other
manufacturer.  So maybe it just depends on what batch of radios 
they are installing at the moment, or maybe it has to do with
the type of radio.

>
>	HOWEVER, as it would turn out, the day after I bought the car
>	the tape deck started flaking out on me.  I would stick a tape
>	in, and the deck would barf it back out (maybe it doesn't like my
>	music :-).  I figured out a way to make it stay:
>
>	   Push the eject button while you are inserting the tape, and
>	   generally it will accept it.
>
>	Now, I realize that my experience is proabably not the norm, and
>	it *is* with a 5 year-old car, but I thought you might find it
>	interesting.

So how does the radio sound, compared to the tape?

When I took my car in, the service person said they have a test
tape they use for testing the sound quality.  I told him the
tape player sounded great, and that the problem was in the radio.
He said they would look into it, but they couldn't do much in
the way of testing. 
When I went back to pick the car up, he said there was definately
a noticeable difference, and that "the setting for the radio was
different than the setting for the tape player".  I have no idea
what he was talking about, but he said they adjusted it.  My only
guess is that they adjusted some type of internal tuning trim,
because the reception seems to be slightly better now.

Anyway, after listening to the radio again, and comparing it
to the tape player, it still doesn't have the same quality.  So I'm going
to take it back in when I have some time, and request that they
install a completely new radio in the car.

Russ Latham (rlatham@mailbox.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com)





Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ehawrysh@bmers217.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Gold vs Tin RCAs/Solid vs Stranded  
Keywords: RCA, amp wires
Organization: bnr
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 13:40:03 GMT

I'm about to install a system into my car (finally) but have a few
economic vs performance questions.

1) I'm building my own line-level cables. I've got the cable, but I can't
decide on whether to buy gold-plated or tin RCA connectors. Is it 
worth the additional cost? I need 10 pairs and can get 6 pair of tin for
the price of 1 pair of gold. (ie CAN$2.50 for 3pr vs CAN$5.00 for 1pr).
BTW, all components have gold-plated connectors.

2) I'm also looking for power wires to my amps. One amp is a HiFonics
Cupid and the other a Sony XM-3040 4ch. For my application, 10 ga is
adequate, but does it matter whether I get solid core or stranded wires?
I realize that stranded would have an advantage if we're talking AC, but
since it's a DC voltage, would there be a difference? 10 ga solid is easy
enough to bend, takes up less space than the stranded, and is cheaper
to buy, so I'm leaning toward the solid.

Your help is much appreciated. Please respond to the net because I
don't have email priviledges.

Evan
 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: HAMILTON@daq.semi.harris.com (Fred Hamilton)
Subject: Re: Problems with custom inst., '91 Civic
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 21:56:49 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Data Acquisition Products, Santa Clara CA

In <1992Apr16.191758.22351@dale.ksc.nasa.gov> sdavis@laforge.ksc.nasa.gov writes:
 
>   Also, although the bass response is pretty decent while listening to the  
> radio, it drops severely when I pop in a tape.  This is true whether the tape  
> is prerecorded or one that I have recorded at home...

I ran into a problem similar to this a few years ago with a Proton car 
receiver.  The radio was fine but the bass response basically disappeared 
when I played a tape.  What had happened was that the connection between the
tape head ground and the amplifier (all this is inside the receiver) had 
opened up, so I effectively was getting a pure Left-Right signal, which
wiped out the bass (since it's usually in the center channel), as well as 
most vocals.  I opened the unit up, resoldered the coax ground to the tape
head, and the problem went away.

Another possibility is that one of the connections to the tapehead is out of
phase.  At low frequencies, this would have a similar effect to what I just
described.  You can check for this by flipping the phase (+ and - leads) of one
channel only.  If the radio now has weak bass, and the cassette has good bass,
then there is something wrong with the receiver, probably a flipped connection
at the tape head.

Good luck!

-Fred
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:2059 rec.autos:11630
From: mail_cheongi@uqvax.cc.uq.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Honda factory radio comments
Date: 17 Apr 92 16:31:49 AEST
Organization: University Of Queensland

(I am learning how to use this horrible EDT editor on VAX via modem on a
laptop in Australia, so excuse please excuse me if this news item looks sad.)


The most likely and easiest to fix problem affecting a radio but not a cassette

Honda antennae are known to die, due to corrosion or (more often) getting
hooked on trees when driving in reverse. (Such is life when your antenna is
shaped like a fish-hook barb.

Replacing an antenna is a ten minute job on a 1984-1987 Civic. (If you need to
know how to do it yourself, mail me.)

If a new antenna doesn't fix a radio problem, then its easiest to leave the
diagnosis to someone who knows electronics, or get a new radio.

Ian Cheong
President
Honda Car Owner's Association of Queensland, Australia
internet: i.cheong@cc.uq.edu.au (I think!)
deck is an antenna related problem.

Organization: Sophomore, Math/Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 22:38:45 -0400 
From: "Robert W. Igo" <ri09+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: How much do you REALLY know? :-)

I should be too embarassed to say this, but I got a 40.  That's why I subscribe
to this group :).  Anyway, could one of you audio geniuses at least post
what they answered to the questions that they know they got right?  That would
seem to be the easiest way to construct a list of answers.

What's the answer to that ground one (the one where one of the answers is
It's a very good ground)

--Bob
\begindata{text,17073508}
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"Make it sew." --Captain Jean-Luc Picard | "I'm very dangerous when I don't

"It ACTUALLY worked...."                 | know what I'm doing...."

--Colin Baker as Dr. Who                 | --Tom Baker as Dr. Who

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Like I've always said: There's nothing an agnostic can't do if he really 

doesn't know whether he believes in anything or not." --Monty Python


[*************************I.......G.......O*******************************]}

\enddata{text,17073508}
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: biancol@bullet.ecf.toronto.edu (BIANCOLIN  FABIO S)
Subject: Blade Amplifiers?
Summary:  Does the DSP cause trouble? 
Organization: University of Toronto, Engineering Computing Facility
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 20:04:32 GMT

  Hello all, 
    I remember there being a recent discussion on Blade Amplifiers around
here, so while i was at the most recent IASCA sanctioned event, i picked 
up some literature on Blade amps.  It was slightly technical and they
describe how their amps work to accomodate musical transients and 
do not overly waste power. 
  
   It said something like this:
  
   There are 2 types of amps currently on the market.  1) Amplifiers which
whose power supplies are always at full power (ie. ready to produce the 
loudest sound that the amp is rated for), and 2) amps whose power supplies 
change with the music (and whose reproduction lags behind).
  
  Drawbacks are 1) too much power consumption, and 2) inaccurate sound
reproduction.
  
   So, along comes Blade.  What they (claim to) do is process the sound 
as it comes into the amplifier, and delay it so the power supply can 
adjust accordingly, and then reproduce the required sound.  So, the power supply
is always operating near maximum efficiency, and this means
less heat sink, accurate sound, and basically the "Next generation of 
amplifiers".  
    Now when i read this, i thought it was a neat idea, and if it truly works,
its a great idea.  However, Does this mean that your entire system MUST
consist of Blade amps to sound proper?  (because if there is a delay in 
the low end reproduction, and none in the high end, ????????)
  
    So, could someone who knows, please tell me how exactly one is supposed
to integrate Blade amplifiers into an audio system? 
  
  Thanks, Fabio

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: feit@ERA.COM (Mark Feit)
Subject: Stereo Space in a LeBaron?
Organization: Engineering Research Associates, Vienna, VA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 15:17:09 GMT

Does anybody know how deep the stereo cavity (the one just below the
air conditioner controls) is on a '91 Chrysler LeBaron?

And as a followup, how do you get the front piece of the dash off?

						- Mark

 ................................. .................................
: Mark A. Feit, Software Engineer : Internet: feit@era.com          :
: Engineering Research Associates : USENET: ...!uunet!era!feit      :
 ................................. .................................
 "Software development is 10% science, 25% ingenuity and 65% getting
	       the ingenuity to work with the science."
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: eag9s@hagar2.acc.Virginia.EDU (Edward A. Gianos)
Subject:  Equalization and Signal Processors 
Reply-To: eag9s@hagar2.acc.Virginia.EDU (Edward A. Gianos)
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: uva
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 16:38:15 GMT


I have been looking at adding a good equalizer to my current system,
and have been wondering what kind of success/failure stories people
have with different types.

I have seen the (infamous) AudioControl EQT.  1/3 octave, 1 channel.
Is it really necessary to have 30 bands on a graphic equalizer to
get sufficient (excellent?) control over the freq response?
What about the Sony XE-700 10 band dash equalizer?  I think Alpine
makes a similar product.
What would be the big advantages to the parametric equalizers, such
as the 3401 by Alpine?  Is 7 bands parametric good?

I think I need to get something good, I was just wondering what
experiences people on the net have had.  Lets get a good chat
going here......

On a slighly related note, what experiences have y'all had with
the AudioControl Epicenter?  To my understanding, it recreates
fundamental bass frequencies at the preamp level from the overtones
in the source signal.  

Thanks all,

Ed Gianos
eag9s@virginia.edu

(Soon to be B.S. Engineer!)
From: mvanmeet@ub.d.umn.edu (Michiel van Meeteren)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: How much do you REALLY know? :-)
Date: 6 Apr 92 19:51:59 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota, Duluth. Information Services.

In article <1992Mar31.060336.16017@rice.edu> frank@owlnet.rice.edu (Franklin Tae-Sung Kang) writes:
>I've uploaded a test that sees how much you know about being an 
>installer.  The program asks you up to 60 questions about basic

[portion deleted for brevity]

>I got 200/240 points.  Let me know how you guys do.
>
>Frank

I got 199 out of 240, with no serious errors.  That test was pretty tough,
but what does the knowledge of the Torx screw in a dashboard have to do with
the knowledge of installation?

BTW, how do you get the correct answers for each question?  I would be
interested in the correct answers to some of those questions.


Pretty tough though, although some of those questions were knowledge that
every EE must have.

Later,
-- 
(~)/~)/~)  o  /    __  | I cant figure it out, when it said <HIT ANY KEY>, 
 /  /  /  /  /_/  /__) | and I hit <SHIFT>, nothing happened.  Then I hit
/  /  (__/__/  \_/\__/ | <CAPS LOCK>, and still nothing happened!!               
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jch@teak.Cray.COM (J.C. Hamlin)
Subject: Re: That Installers test......
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: 6 Apr 92 11:53:26 CDT

In article <1992Apr4.042550.7175@helios.physics.utoronto.ca>, biancol@bullet.ecf.toronto.edu (BIANCOLIN  FABIO S) writes:
>   Hello there,
>     this is addressed to the person who uploaded the tdr installers test
> to the ftp site.  Do you have the correct answers on hand?  Could you
> upload them to the same ftp site?  The reason is simple, i didn't do as
> well as i thought i might (alot of GM related and poorly worded questions)
> and i was wondering if i might learn something from my somewhat humbling
> experience.  Thanks, Fabio

Fabio (and the rest of you who have been caught in this trap),

   The correct answers aren't provided for a reason.  Did you read the 
README file?  The entire installer's package is sold for about $300, which 
contains all of the correct answers.  The "test" (not the package) is freely 
distributed as advertising for their installer's package.  This particular 
form of advertising is very effective, sort of a bait and swallow tactic.  
You get a taste of what it was like, but they leave you hanging wanting more.
So.... you go out and buy it.

   Too bad most of us don't have that kind of money to spend on some cheap 
QuickBasic program with a lot of good information in it.

   I suppose I could create a test in the "spirit" of the TDR test with 
correct answers.  However, I don't have a lot of time right now, but I'll 
let you know when I get enough together to consider it a test.

J.C. Hamlin
jch@Cray.COM

P.S.  I got a 220.  I think there are some very poorly worded questions 
      and/or answers in that test.  And the GM specific is plain stupid 
      without a Ford/Crysler/Honda/Nissan/Toyota/etc specific sections.
From: zzzk@nyssa.CS.ORST.EDU (Ken Eshelby)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Pioneer - Supertuner IV - Is it really better?
Summary: guess!
Date: 8 Apr 92 07:38:06 GMT
Organization: Oregon State University, Computer Science Dept


  Has anyone tried out Pioneer's upper end CD or CD/Changer decks?  Mainly I waswondering how much greater the "8 dbf" - Crutchfield mono sensitivity was than
  the usual 12 dbf.  Since this is the only way I know how to rate tuner
  sections (given that the info is accurate) - barring taking it out for my own
  test, I was quite impressed by that number.  It blows away most home units!

  There must be somebody (s) out there with impressions, so what do YOU think?


  thank you

-ken
From: igoujarrodjo@bvc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: A 4th order Bandpass Question...combination?
Date: 13 Apr 92 20:19:19 CDT
Organization: Buena Vista College, Storm Lake, IA

Thanks to JC and Brian (especially JC ;-), I now have enough formulas for sub
enclosures to seriously destroy one's sanity...
and I have yet another question concerning fourth order bandpass enclosures.  


What I would like to do (if possible) is combine the ported parts of two fourth
order bandpass enclosures, so that the two drivers have separate sealed
chambers and a common ported chamber, like so:
	 ____________________________    _______________________________
	|		   |        |    |        |		  	| 
	|		   |        |    |	  |		  	|
	|		  /|        |    |	  |\			|
	|		 / |			  | \			|
	|	       -   |			  |   -			|
	|	      |	   |			  |    |		|
	|	       -   | 			  |   -			|
	|		 \ |			  | /			|
	|		  \|			  |/			|
	|		   |			  |			|
	|__________________|______________________|_____________________|


The question is:     What how should the volume and port size be figured for
		     the center chamber?  Should the volume and port size
		     be doubled, or what?

Any help is greatly appreciated...

Jarrod Igou
igoujarrodjo@bvc.edu


P.S.  Just ask me about the formulas JC sent me....
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: harner@sunwhere.dab.ge.com (Keith Harner)
Subject: Re: power antennae
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 04:52:33 GMT
Organization: General Electric SCSD, Daytona Beach FL

In article <702869936.10206.0@unix7.andrew.cmu.edu> ri09+@andrew.cmu.edu (Robert W. Igo) writes:
#Hi again.  My car radio doesn't tend to pick up lots of stations very well
#(I should clarify that I live in hilly areas-- Pittsburgh) and I wondered
#about getting a power antenna to replace the one currently on my car
#(82 Honda Accord).  Any suggestions?

Wonder no more.. Yes you can get a power antenna for your Honda. And  
you have permission to do so. First check your antenna trimmer before
wasting large amounts of cash on a power (active) antenna. Most of the
times that I have known people to buy these things they simply ended
up overloading the front end of the tuner in question.
I beleve that your car has a fender mount antenna, yes?
Examine it, it's 10 years old and the portion of the antenna under
fender is exposed to all the crap and road salt thrown up by
the right front tire. If it looks badly oxidized replace it with a new one.
Much cheaper than a power antenna. (I am assuming you meant amplified
antenna not power as in up and down.)

--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|Keith Harner                                   |harner@civax.DAB.GE.COM     |
|General Electric Simulation and Control Systems|harner@sunny.DAB.GE.COM     |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@navaho.ugrad.ee.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: Speaker Connections
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 19:23:42 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.030702.1573@scott.skidmore.edu>, jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser) writes:
|> There are a couple of ways to check which wire is which, the most
|> obvious is the use of a continuety (sp?) meter.  However, the easiest
|> way that will not require uninstallation of speakers is this...
|> 	Grab a friend whose sole job will be to identify if a speaker
|> cone moves out or in on your command.  Grab a pair of wires that are
|> ready to be connected to the radio.  Touch one wire to the (+)
|> terminal of a D cell battery and the other to the (-) side.  If the
|> speaker cone moves outward, the wire connected to (+) is (+) and the
|> other is (-).  If the cone moves in, the wire connected to the (+)
|> battery terminal is (-) and the other is (+).  Of course, if nothing
|> happens, then the two wires you are testing are not connected to the
|> speaker.
|> 	Best of luck!
|> 				- Jason Reiser
|>  
|>  
|>   /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
|>   \                                                           /
|>   / Jason Reiser  Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 \
|>   \            E-Mail at jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu            /
|>   /                    Or Call 518-581-7079                    \
|>   \                                                            /
|>    \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
|>                                                                 


This method is used by a lot of amateur car stereo installers.  
Unfortunately, you can do a lot of damage to the computer system in
your car if you touch the wrong wire.  In newer cars which have 
computer equipment strewn throughout them, you can do some very expensive
damage by putting voltage on a lead that goes to a computer.  In fact,
even using an ohm-meter you can damage computer equipment, because an
ohm-meter puts out voltage as well.  The safest way to check, is to use
a voltmeter on any wire you think might be a speaker wire.  If it is a 
speaker wire, then when the car is on (or off) there will be no voltage
present.  If there is voltage on the wire, then you don't have the right 
wire.  


                       Brian L. Gentry
                 (brian@sioux.ugrad.ee.ufl.edu)
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 05:51:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Voltage converter
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

   I have a 6 volts VW car radio which I would like to run on my new
12 volt battery car.  I want to build a 'voltage converter' that would allow
me to play this radio.  I have looked around for books, but have not found
any yet.  So if anyone know s  some hints please email to me.  I appreciate
your help a lot.
----------

Check your engineering library for a National or Fairchild Linear Products
Data Book.  They sell many regulators that will work if you don't draw much
power.  Schematics are provided and the parts are inexpensive.

Kirk out
From: brian@pawnee.ugrad.ee.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: 6th Order Band-Pass?
Keywords: subwoofers, 6th order, Band-Pass
Date: 12 Apr 92 22:41:13 GMT
Organization: UF EE Department (student)

In article <1992Apr7.132046.3616@iscsvax.uni.edu>, olberdin9578@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
|> 
|>     A friend of mine made a sub box for me and I think he called it a 6th order
|> band-pass.  It's got a 10 inch Boston Acoustics driver and I run it with an
|> Alpine 3522 bridged to 80 watts (I think).  It sound good running off my Delco
|> cassette, but I was just wondering exactly what I have.  Anyone know?  He
|> said that the left chamber had to be exactly 2/3 of the total and the right
|> exactly 1/3.  The ports are 1" and 4", but I can't remember how long they are.
|> 
|> 
|>    ----------------------------------
|>    |                    |           |
|>    |                   /|           |
|>    |                 /  |   /    \  |
|>    |      ( )       |   |  (      ) |
|>    |                 \  |   \    /  |
|>    |                   \|           |
|>    |                    |           |
|>    ----------------------------------
|> 
|>                                              Thanks for any info.
|> 
|>                                              David Olberding
|>                                              olberdin9578@iscsvax.uni.edu


The 1/3 and 2/3 spec is something that Rockford Fosgate teaches their 
installers.  They use this for 4th order bandpass enclosures and 6th 
order bandpass enclosures.  Unfortunately, it doesn't work for all cases.
I guess they made a few enclosures and decided that they sounded "ok" with
the 1/3 to 2/3 volume ratios.  I have designed many 4th order bandpass
enclosures, and very few of them had this volume ratio.  BTW, what you
have above is a 6th order bandpass enclosure.

                       Brian L. Gentry
               (brian@sioux.ugrad.ee.ufl.edu)
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:1947 sci.electronics:8228
From: nguye978@Armstrong.EDU (Nguyen)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,sci.electronics
Subject: Voltage converter
Date: 9 Apr 92 03:33:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Armstrong State College, Savannah, GA


  
   I have a 6 volts VW car radio which I would like to run on my new
12 volt battery car.  I want to build a 'voltage converter' that would allow
me to play this radio.  I have looked around for books, but have not found
any yet.  So if anyone know s  some hints please email to me.  I appreciate
your help a lot.

  my email address is  nguye978@pirates.armstrong.edu


-- 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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