HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mojo@reed.edu (Treacle, mostly.)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Help!  My frogs have outgrown comets!
Date: 6 Oct 92 23:17:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: reed.1992Oct6.231713.21208
Organization: every place is the same every place is the same


I'm posting here, rather than rec.pets.herp, because the frogs in question
are aquatic and this is an aquarium sort of problem...

I have two juvenile Surinam toads, which are eating about 50 comets a week
between them (they'd probably eat more if I supplied them) and only
half-grown.  What do you feed something that outgrows comets?  (They seem to
want live food, or I'd use mice---but they usually wait for something to
swim by their faces to grab it.)

Thanks

	NT
-- 
/^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^\
| It's worse than that,  {      Nathan Tenny      }  Acme Hedgehog Inserters  |
| it's physics, Jim!     {        mojo@reed.edu   }  Implementation Director  |
\^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^/
From: shazam@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Live plants - What kind!? *smile*
Date: 26 Sep 92 07:13:07 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

What I would suggest is to do like I did.  Go out and buy a 
book that has real pictures of plants and tells you about each one.
I have a Simon adn Schuster book that has plants, tropical fish, salt-
water fish and gold fish in it, and I love it.

The book gives you a lot of plants to look at and I had a real good idea
of what I wanted when I went in.  I also sought the help of my
local Fish store owner.  I have 6 live plants in my 20gal long and
I will be adding more.  What I have looks great and I am very satisfied
with them.  I have two banana plants, some floating plant, two 
kinds of lilies (not the floating kind, the kind you actually plant, 
they have red/pink leave, gorgeous), and a nice plant that is supposed
to be perfect for a tropical aquarium.  I am sorry to say that I 
can;t get my hadn on my book so I will have to repost the name
of this plant....I do not knwo the common name for it.

I purposely chose plants that would have no or little maintanence.
So far, the banana plants have lost a few leaves and that is it.
The lilies and the plant IO cannot remember what is is, have only been
in for a few days. 

You should watch the ones that shed though.  Some people may like
them and their mess...not me *smile*

Good luck, if I can help further, let me know *smile*

Suzanne
From: terry@gtm-inc.com (Terry Gerritsen)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Wet/Dry
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 06:08:27 EDT
Reply-To: terry@gtm-inc.com (Terry Gerritsen)
Distribution: na
Organization: G.T.M. Incorporated, Kingston, ON (613) 546-3078
Content-Type: Text

jon@apollo.mcl.bdm.com (Jon Humphreys) writes:

> Does anyone know anything about the Biolife 55 Wet/Dry filter?  It's a contai
> trickle filter that sits inside the aquarium.  Does it work?
> 
> I have the Biolife 35 Wet/Dry Filter and I think it is the best thing 
since slice bread.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Terry Gerritsen         |  G.T.M. Incorporated              (613) 384 0162
terry@gtm-inc.com       |  Kingston, Ontario           Fax: (613) 389 4594
                      "Transportation is our business"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7761 sci.aquaria:1408
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Definite Gorgonian sp. Spawning !(was Re: Possible Gor...)
Keywords: reef breeding octocorals soft gorgonian planula
Date: 3 Oct 92 22:03:33 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood


  It appears that the release of slime ropes from this particular
 Gorgonian sp. is a precursor to the main event. Coral egg release.
 This morning at 10:30 am about 50 eggs were being released from
 about 5% of the polyps. This could have been the end of a mid-night
 spawn or the start of the main spawn. Eggs are creamy white orange
 and aproximately 520 microns in diameter. Only 10 were collected 
 and transferred into a 2 gallon bowl for development purposes. It
 looks like some are dividing and becomming less spherical.
  The event was video taped and pictures were taken. Just good enough
 for verification. After the egg release this morning, more slime 
 ropes were released. I am hoping that the main spawning has yet to
 happen but I could have missed most of the eggs. Some polyps held
 up to 5 eggs in their tentacles. The strong water current would
 eventually pull the eggs out of the polyp tentacles. The eggs were 
 covered with a slimy substance that held them to the polyp a little. 
  One other note. Last night two branches were cut for fragmentation
 purposes. There were getting to long. This probably did not stimulate
 the spawning since the slime ropes had been released the day before.
 Neither of the two fragments were observed to release eggs but this
 event could have been missed. Note - this coral had only been in my 
 reef for 5 days before spawning. The artificial moon was full when 
 coral was installed. Moon is on a 30 day cycle. Water temps 78.3 mor-
 ning 79.4 at end of metal halide cycles (degrees F). According to the
 dealer coral originated from a location 20 degress south of the equa-
 tor.
 ps - Another spawn picture to post on the spawning wall :>

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Dynamic Aquaria by W.H. Adey
Date: 3 Oct 92 19:08:57 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

In article <Flatline.0m0u@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca> Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline) writes:
>I seem to be under the impression that Mr. Adey was rapidly discounted by
>the industry in general and by people on the net. Am I right? If so, why?

	I for one don't believe in algea scrubber.  As for why, some of us
get to see his algea scrubber in action (Museun of Natural History in
DC) and it's not a pretty sight.  If my tank look anything near as bad
as his, I would have quite the hobby long ago.  However, do keep in mind
that I don't think he is interest in a good looking tank, he's more
interested in a scientific research on ecosystem.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: Laterite -- Overdose?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: rec
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 21:48:42 GMT


My hornwort was looking brown, and someone suggested iron.  So I bought
some laterite, and didn't follow the directions on the label.  It said
to push a piece into the gravel near the roots of the plant.  I thought
, well, why not just put it under the filterplate of the RFUGF.  So, in
less than 3 minutes my tank looks like mud.

Is this dangerous to the fish? -- Do I need to put them in a different
tank (not that I am sure that I can get them out when I can't see more
than 1/2 inch into water.)  Will the opacity go away shortly, or ever?
Is there anything I should do other than daily 25% water changes?

Thanks for any replies --

Frank Fujita
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ig30@vaxb.acs.unt.edu
Subject: How to culture Daphnia?
Organization: University of North Texas
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:21:32 GMT

Could someone let me know how best(the easiest way) to culture Daphnia. In a
recent FAMA I saw Daphnia Magna cultures for sale - are these a large sized
Daphnia? I am looking for this or any other easy live food to culture for my
1.5 inch Julies.

Thanks

Ruvan Nanayakkara
IG30@VAXB.ACS.UNT.EDU

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: 33-G FILTRATION
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 15:26:05 GMT

In article <15913@mindlink.bc.ca> Alan_Schianni@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Schianni)  
writes:
> working fine.  Could I use this Mini system in my 33-g tank or will
> that expose me to problems?  If not, could anyone recommend what
> type of filtration systems I could purchase?

I used an Aquaclear Mini on a 35 gallon tank for almost a year and was 
happy with its performance.  It generated enough current to keep the 
tank relatively clean.
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
0_/                       
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: New tank and fish deaths
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1992 17:51:02 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I just set up a new 110 gallon tank, let the water sit for a few days,
added some ammonia/chlorine/chloromine remover, bought 2 kissing gouramis,
2 swordfish, and 4 beuen aires tetras, and put them in the tank.
I also added some Cycle.
For the past 2 days, the gouramis have just hidden behind a rock for the most part,
both swordfish died, but the tetras seem to be doing OK.  
Is this common for a new tank?  Should the gouramis just hide out until they die,
and the swordfish die so quickly?  Water temp near 80. pH near 7.5 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: hagens@ans.net (Robert Hagens)
Subject: good marine stores
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 14:52:09 GMT
Distribution: virginia
Organization: Advanced Network & Services


Anyone have recommendations on good stores for equipment/marine fish in the
northern virginia area?

Rob Hagens
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Single Species Tanks
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 02:38:20 GMT

In article <1992Oct04.212721.123993@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>rather have a large tank filled with 100's of red swordtail fish, or 100's
>of tiger barbs?  Thanks.

Tiger barbs.  Swordtails do not school, barbs do.  If the tank is long
enough so when the school is at one end of the tank, there are very few fish
at the other end, you will get a very nice effect.

Other reasons:
 - tiger barbs get to be 2.5" long or so, while swordtails get to be 5-6"
 - swordtails are primarily the dwellers of the upper waters of the tank,
   while the barbs are the mid-water fish.  If they are the only tankl
   residents, the barbs will fill the tank better than the swords
 - tiger barbs are prettier and livelier.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Which to believe
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 20:11:15 GMT

cliff (cliff@watson.ibm.com) wrote:
: I have one of those heaters which has a particular temperature value you
: can set.  I set it to 75.  The LCD stick-on thermometer on the outside
: of the tank reads 80.  Which of the two readings would be closer to the
: truth?  

Neither.  The temp settings on heaters are *always* off one way
or the other, and those LCD thermometers are completely useless.
Yes, I own some, too.  The only thing to do is to buy a real
thermometer.  If you find them to be too ugly, don't leave it
in your tank - whenever you want to know the temp, drop the
thermometer in and wait a few minutes.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Mixing Swordtails and tiger barbs
Date: 6 Oct 92 05:42:02 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct05.164848.27598@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>I have a nice swordtail fish with delicate fins.  If I were to ad
>a school of tiger barbs to the tank, should I assume that the swordtail's
>fins would be torn to shreds?

YES.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: drake@Autodesk.COM (Dan Drake)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Periodic partial water changes
Date: 28 Sep 92 17:22:48 GMT
Organization: Autodesk Inc., Sausalito CA, USA

jle@cfm.brown.edu (Jon Elion) writes:
[ With respect to use of untreated tap water ]
> Also, chlorine content may vary from one community
> to another.
> 
It sure does.  The other day I called the local water district's lab to
ask about chlorine levels, and the answer was that the treatment plant
adds 1.2 (I think) parts per million, but by the time the water gets to
the tap, it comes out anywhere from 0 to 0.2 ppm or so.

So you may be getting no chlorine at all; it depends where you are on
the piping, not just on the community.

By the way, this kind of variation may be the reason why water
districts, including the local one, are going over to chloramine.  That
stuff is stable, and there won't be so much variation.  And anyone who's
using untreated water after experimenting and finding that it works OK
had better be ready for trouble the day the water purification plant
turns on the ammonia tap.

--
Dan Drake
drake@Autodesk.com
From: putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Zebra Danio pregnant or?
Date: 30 Sep 92 06:13:12 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of California, Davis

Help! My apartment-mates FW 10 tank has a Danio in it that is, to be
conservative, swollen to twice its old size. Maybe 3*. The entire
abdominal cavity looks more like a small lego block than a nice
streamlined fish. This state has developed over the last four weeks or
so, and I wonder what is causing it? There are two other zebra danios
in the tank, so I suspect that this fish is pregnant (are Danios
livebearers?) or ready to spawn (if not). Is there some FW disease
that could be causing this? The skin on the poor thing seems stretched
to the limit and just today a couple of open spots appeared. I suspect
the other danios (they harry the first a bit) but am still worried.
What do the FW experts recommend? I know most of this is basic
knowledge but I am a saltwater type and don't feel like buying a bunch
of books about FW fish for this one problem. My roomates are entirely
clueless, and I feel a bit sorry for the fish, so please, any info
would be helpful.

Here is a summary of my questions (it is rather late at night, so the
above paragraph may be a bit, or a lot, hard to comprehend):

1) What is the gestation period of the Zebra Danio?
2) Any particular environmental conditions necessary to make it spawn
(ie, will it just die if the temperature is too high, water too hard,
etc.?)
3) Should I treat a pregnant (if it is) danio with anti-biotics for a
couple of small open wounds?
4) If so, what is a good anti-biotic to use in a FW community tank
with the following, keeping in mind that a hospital tank is not
available for my roomies tank:
   1 flounder
   1 bumblebee goby
   3 zebra danios
   1 neon tetra
   1 clown loach
   2 harlequin rasboras
   1 small clam.
5) What other causes for this huge swelling of the abdomen are there?
The fish has no swimming problems and otherwise behaves normally.

Thanks for any help!

| David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu              |
| Senior Undergraduate              | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine)   |
| Computer Science and Psychology   |      Money? Who needs money?        |
| University of California at Davis |          I've got fish!             |
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7767 alt.aquaria:5177
From: rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au (Robert Bennetts.)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: [M] Help!!! Chromis Tail disappears
Date: 4 Oct 92 12:26:06 GMT
Followup-To: poster


	Help...

	My Blue/Green Chromis has a problem. It's tail seems to have been eaten or is rotting away, or something, it does not appear to be being harrased or beaten up by any of the other fish, so I suspect it could be some sort of fin rot or something.
	Could anyone help with this problem, tell me what it is or how to cure it, the fish does not actually appear stressed at all, it is just missing it's tail.
	Thanks very much in advance...

	Ross Bennetts...

		rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au
From: Alan_Schianni@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Schianni)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: 33-G FILTRATION
Date: 2 Oct 92 18:31:59 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

Hi.  I have a 33-g tank that I started on Tuesday September 29.  So
far I placed a 150-watt heater and now I'm considering a filtration
device.  On my older tank - a 10-g having one medium size piranha,
I use an "AquaClear" MINI power filter.  It says it is for
aquariums up to 20U.S. gallons but that it pumps 100-g per hour. I've been
operating this machine on "low-speed" and it seems to be
working fine.  Could I use this Mini system in my 33-g tank or will
that expose me to problems?  If not, could anyone recommend what
type of filtration systems I could purchase?

Thankyou,
From: snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com (Cindy Camp)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Tiger Barbs
Date: 6 Oct 92 18:16:43 GMT
Organization: Denver, Colorado
Originator: snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com

Another quick question concerning my mom's 10 gallon.

She has this tiger barb that seems to have lost his sense of direction.
He swims with his mouth pointed to the bottom of the tank.  He has
been like this for a while I guess.  She just purchased a couple more,
and one of them has started to do the same thing.

I checked the pH - around 7, nitrates and ammonia were acceptable,
I tried to check the hardness but it was a brand new test kit, and
I think it was bogus, wouldn't give any indication of the hardness.

So...I am kind of new at diagnosing fish, and nothing that I have
read gives me any indication of what the problem is...any ideas?

Thanks!


-- 
 Cindy Camp - Usual disclaimers apply   |  Just waiting for a good quote
 Martin Marietta  (303)977-9804 	|  or lyric right now.
 snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com  or	|  
 cnewell@azum.den.mmc.com		|  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: markham@brtph600.bnr.ca (Andrew Markham P205)
Subject: Converting from marine to reef?  Help!!!
Organization: Bell Northern Research Inc.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 17:29:09 GMT

I have two tanks, a 55-gallon and a 29-gallon, set up as marine tanks.

The 55 has an undergravel filter powered by a 1140 Penguin power head 
and a 550 Penguin power head with about 1-2" of crushed coral as 
substrate.  It also has a Whisper 5 (the big one) hanging off the back 
that contains both standard filter media and bio-balls.

The 29 has an undergravel filter powered by a Whisper 700 and Whisper 
600.  It also has a Fluval Skilter hanging off the back that contains 
both the standard filter media as well as bio-balls.

Before yesterday, the 55 contained a 4" panther grouper, while the 29
contained a scooter blenny and royal gamma.  I have decided to break 
down the 29-gallon and convert the 55 (hopefully) into a reef tank 
containing live rock and inverts (and a hand full of small fish).

I took the panther grouper back to the store and am going to move the 
blenny and gamma over to the 55 tank.  I'll probably add one or two 
more 'little' fish or crabs to the 55 for the next couple of months 
since I plan on building a small wet-dry and purchase some lights.  
The Skilter will also be taken from the 29 and put on the 55 (mainly 
for the skimmer functionality).

I have the following questions...

1)  I am currenly using Instant Ocean from Aquarium Systems as my salt 
    source, and am wondering if I should switch to Reef Crystals (also 
    from Aquarium Systems)?  If so, can I just start using Reef Crystals 
    when I do my water changes, or do I have to start from scratch?  
    Because if I have to start from scratch, then I'm not going to 
    change...

2)  Should I keep the current substrate and just build the reef on top
    of it, or should I plan on removing the substrate (including UGF
    and power heads) and replacing it with sand?  Another possibility
    would be to remove the UGF and just leave a small covering of 
    crushed coral (I'm worried about taking out all of the bacteria
    that has formed on the coral over the past 4-5 months)?  What about
    leaving only 1/2" - 1" of substrate and UGF to help with the 
    water flow?

3)  Since it is pretty likely that I will build my own wet-dry 
    (hopefully in one of my spare 10 gallon tanks), what filtration
    can I then take out?  

4)  With regards to the light thing.  I currently have two Triton bulbs
    in a standard hood setup on the 55.  I have an additional standard
    hood setup (from a spare 55 in the garage) that I could put lights
    in and put on the reef tank.  Would that be a good idea?  Or should
    I purchase other lighting apparatus?  If so, could I have some
    recommendations?


Thanx for any and all help, and I'm sure you'll be hearing from me again!!!

-- 
Andrew W. Markham (markham@bnr.ca)
Bell Northern Research, Inc.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: [F] Build to house KOI and Goldfish? (Long)
Originator: howardr@hplsdum.col.hp.com
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 01:38:52 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

I am thinking about constructing a building to house our goldfish and KOI 
collection.  We rent but the owners will allow us to build a tempory building 
that we will take with when we move.  

There are several reasons for building the structure.

Winter
   Provide a cool, stable enviornment to overwinter the fish.  I do not need 
   to maintain a fixed temperature, but changes have to be gradual.

   The temperature can vary a lot in our location.  I need a way to
   moderate the temperature changes.  I may need to keep the water cool
   during a midwinter warm spell, and keep it from freezing during a 
   cold snap.  The building will contain at least 1000 US gallons of
   water which should help moderate temperature changes.  Our summer
   temperatures seldom exceed the low 90's but January temperatures
   can range from about 10 below to 70 above.  

Summer
   Provide an adjustable amount of sunlight.
   Protect the fish from preditors.
   Allow insects in.

We have space to build an eighteen foot square structure.  I am thinking
about a post and beam structure (bolted together, no floor) with flat 
insulated pannels for the walls and roof.  I do not see the structure of 
the building as a problem but the solor heating and insulating is.  It
would be easy for me to build a box (building) but I am not sure how to
get it to perform the heating and insulating tasks properly esp with all
the moisture generated by the water contained within.  One approach would
be to over engineer it with lots of extra insulation and solar heating
capacity but that would eat up a lot of time and money I would rather
nod spend if I do not have too.

I would like to keep the design as low tech as possible (KISS).

I intend to do my homework and contact the local ag collage as well
as several US gov department etc but:

Does anyone have any pratical experiance regarding such a building.

I would like to get it right the first time and if possible keep the cost 
under 2K.



-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: [M]Nest?
X-Xxdate: Mon, 28 Sep 92 23:36:59 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d11
Organization: NCSA
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 22:39:04 GMT
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6ECF33BD60114C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>

Hello,

I bought a Long Tentacled anemone about a month ago.  She still has not
attached, but has been fairly confined to a space between two rocks. 
Last night, she moved a bit, and I noticed a mucoid layer where her foot
used to be.  It looks kind of like a tarantula nest.

Does anyone know what this may be?  The current in that area is pretty
good, so, I do not think it is detritus.

Igor
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7786 alt.aquaria:5186