HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: iron on appliques
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:25:27 GMT

In article <4947@rosie.NeXT.COM> szakhour@next.com (Sharon Zakhour) writes:
>as well.)  Wonder Under is TERRIFIC for doing appliques as you described, but  
>it should always be permanently attached to the fabric with sewing -- it is 
not 
>meant to permanently bond the applique to the fabric. 

I just saw an ad for some stuff called "Heatnbond", it is sold as
a permanent fusible that is meant for this type of work, when the
applique is not stitched down. I have also had problems with
WonderUnder peeling up, so I think I'll try Heatnbond next time.

--marina
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: anne@dolores.Stanford.EDU (Anne Paulson)
Subject: Re: crotch length adjustments
Organization: Stanford University
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:28:27

In article <1992Sep2.164301.8700@newstand.syr.edu> jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed) writes:

   Greetings. I'm trying to come up with a pants pattern (simple, elastic waist
   for now) that fits, and both i have tried so far are too short from crotch
   to waist. I have a third pattern, supposed to be adjustable for small, med.
   and large hips, short, med. tall height, and none of the crotch lengths 
   are right. Would one of  you please tell me where to add depth to the 
   pattern so I can get sufficient crotch-to-waist length, front and back?
   Also, please note if I add same in front and back, or what. 

There is no simple answer.  Here is the complicated answer:

It depends on your shape.  If you're tall, or just long from waist to
crotch, you can add on both parts about halfway from waist to crotch.
If you have a large or low behind, you add to the back, scooping the
back crotch lower.  If you have a tummy, you add to the front.  If
your inner thighs are heavy, you add to the inseam in front or back or
both, depending on where it's needed.  You may need to make several of
these alterations.  

Also note what should be obvious, but wasn't to me:  When you get your
pants or skirt ready for the waistband or elastic, don't just put the
elastic where the pattern says.  Instead, put the pants (or skirt) on,
tie a piece of elastic around your waist, and mark where the elastic
hits the pattern.  This is where the bottom (or some say the middle)
of the waistband goes.

Pants fitting is tough.  I
highly recommend the McCall's Palmer-Pletsch pants fitting pattern
(4764).  If you follow the instructions, you end up with a pattern for
pants that fit.  The fitting pattern is of course a simple, fitted
pants pattern, but  to turn it into an elastic-waist pattern is a
simple matter of not sewing the darts and putting elastic on the top.

-- Anne
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson)
Subject: Re: How to sew with metallic thread
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 17:02:29 GMT

In article <9209042013.AA09109@marny.Corp.Sun.COM> Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume) writes:
>I decided to wind some DMC metallic thread onto a bobbin
>and try one of my sewing machine's fancy embroidery stitches
>on a crazy quilting project last night. Luckily I tried the
>stitches out on a scrap of fabric, because it turned out that
>there was no way I could get that thread to work! I used regular
>sewing thread in the needle, so the right side of my work was
>down. The tangles that resulted didn't even look like a sewing
>machine had done them! I tried every combination of thread and 
>bobbin tension I could think of, then gave up and used regular thread
>in the bobbin (the machine worked fine then).
>
I share your frustration.  The metallic thread always looks so pretty
at the store or on a sample.  But when I get it home . . . .

Anyway, I have a Pfaff and what they suggested I do is loosen the bobbin
case screw.  Since I use a lot of different weight threads I took their
suggested to buy a second bobbin case and have it set for metallic and 
heavier threads.  This way I don't have to adjust the screw all the time.

>So, has anyone managed to do machine embroidery with metallic thread
>successfully? How? Should I have threaded it through the needle instead
>of the bobbin? Was the thread I used too heavy (it seems about like button-
>hole twist)? I was using four layers of fabric, so I didn't try any
>stabilizer, would that help? It seemed as if the bobbin thread didn't
>even interlock with the top thread most of the time. I tried a less
>complicated pattern, and the effect was slightly better, but the top thread
>still showed on the right side. So it seems like a tension problem, 
>perhaps the metallic thread is a lot less stretchy than regular thread,
>but how do I deal with that? 
>
>Discouraged,
>
>--marina

However, my above solution maynot work for you.  So, I'm going to take
your question to the lady that teaches machine embroidery where I bought
my machine.  It may be a while before I get a response from her.  But
as soon as I do I'll post it.

Don't stay discouraged.  I'm sure there's an answer somewhere out there.
We just have to wait for the person who has it to post it! !  I hope they
post it soon.  I have lots of thread that I bought at the Creative 
Festivals craft show last year and the year before, because the vendor
"ASSURED ME, IT WOULD WORK".  Anyway, that's another story.

Good luck -

Fran Peterson 
fran@Cadence.Com

F [:)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: sgcclmj@citec.oz.au (Liz Jones)
Subject: cross stich and PCs
Organization: CITEC
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 06:34:11 GMT


     Hi from downunder!

     Being fairly interested in all manner of craft and sewing, etc..
       as well as computers (!)
     I thought this might be a good spot to ask if there is anyone out there
     who knows where I could get a PC cross-stitch design program.

     Mail-ordering is kinda okay, but I'd prefer to be able to ftp it...
     I've looked on a number of sites for share-ware/public domain stuff,
      but haven't yet found one!

     I'd appreciate any help - there seems to be a distinct lack of programs
     of this sort in Australia, but I've heard of them and others elsewhere.


     Thanks in advance!
    
     Elizabeth           Practicing Computer Bomber.
     sgcclmj@citec.oz.au
From: tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Washing velvet
Date: 7 Sep 92 07:05:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sylvan Associates

In article <Btz4q9.CCn@acsu.buffalo.edu> gorman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Anne-Marie K. Gorman) writes:

   So now I'm getting a little more ambitious, and I'm thinking of making 
   velvet dresses for Christmas and first birthday (December 15th).  
   So-Fro has velvet on sale, but it's marked Dry Clean Only.  I'm not
   going to dry clean baby clothes!  Is it possible to wash it?  One of
   the velvets is 100% rayon and teh other is 70% acetate/30% nylon.

Not the rayon or nylon velvets. They will lose a lot of the fuzz and
likely get all wrinkly/crumply.

Look for 100% cotton velveteen or better yet for comfortable kid's
clothes, use VELOUR (usually available in a 80% cotton blend). Not
robe velour, but velour that looks like velvet. It washes like a
dream, and since it's a knit, it has a bit of give, too. Velour is my
favorite fabric for making kid's clothing out of. It's great for
dresses, long sleeve shirts, coveralls, and sweat-like outfits (only
it makes them all soft and much more dressy looking).
-- 

Tigger (Grace Sylvan)                Mom of Katherine Yelena, 8/8/89 &
tigger@satyr.sylvan.com              Robin Gregory born 2/28/92

 "It seems to me that our large goal is to find the ways to help our
 children become humane and strong."
 
              - Dr Haim Ginott quoted by Adele Faber & Elaine Mazlish
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2674 rec.crafts.textiles:1616
From: rrah@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Runa Rahman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: What about pattern addicts?  (and I'm back - for the moment)
Date: 11 Sep 92 19:51:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

Well, I'm back - I don't know whether temporarily or permanently (why do
they torture me with uncertainty?), but I'll enjoy it while I can!

All this talk about addiction - I have one for patterns.  I've accumulated
50+ patterns in four years, plus several Burda magazines full of patterns
and one book with patterns to be enlarged.  I have a few pattern drafting
books, too.

I've been pretty good recently about completing projects (I've been making
about 1 item of clothing every two weeks since the beginning of the summer),
but the pattern acquisition rate far exceeds the project completion rate
at any point of time!

I'm sure others have MANY more patterns than me, but it seems a lot when
you don't use them as fast as you get them!  I probably would get more if
I could afford it (sometimes being poor prevents things from getting out
of hand...;).

I can't get over the woman I read about in Threads (maybe a letter, maybe
not) who has 1000+ (maybe closer to 2000?) patterns...!  What's probably
going to happen in my case is when I reach a certain limit, I will purge
my collection - I'm VERY good at getting rid of things which have no
present or future value, thank God. 

Runa

P.S.  Thanks, Nancy Reynolds, for keeping me informed about the newsgroup
      during my (brief) absence :)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: lmurray@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu (Laura Murray)
Subject: RE:  Giving handmade gifts to friends
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 19:54:21 GMT


Just had to respond to all this.  First, I was amazed that this seems to be such
a universal experience - giving handmade gifts to non-family members and
finding them unappreciated.

My *grandmother*, of all people, told me this back in the '60's when she
was teaching me how to embroider and sew.  "Don't ever give your handwork
to someone out of the family", she'd say, "they just don't ever appreciate
it."  Basically, I've followed her advice because on the rare occassions when
I would make something for a friend I would soon find out she was right.  I
think that it's just that non-crafters really have no idea how much time it
takes to make even the simplest gifts.

Second, I do have to also agree with Mary Shafer, who wrote that often people
don't display gifts because of taste differences and that really, once a gift
is given away, you have no say over what the receiver should do with it.  My
*father* always told me this.  So with all this advice in my head I basically
make things only for family, and no matter what I give, I realize it's up to
the receiver to decide what to do with it.  I've sometimes felt funny at
baby and wedding showers when so many others were giving handmade gifts to
our mutual friend, but I've found my grandmother was right and I just stick
to that.


Laura Murray
University of Denver
Math/Computer Science
lmurray@m.cs.du.edu

 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: lcornell@milton.u.washington.edu (Linda Cornell)
Subject: Re: Keeping stuff we make (was Fabricholics Anonymous) vs. giving away/     
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 22:40:52 GMT


Well, I unfortunately usually have a long list of people waiting on me to
do things, so the stuff I give away tends to be stuff that was asked for,
(begged, pleaded and patiently waited for) and it tends to be used to death
(usually wild clothing for my niece and nephews, and tons of costumes).

I am getting a little better at doing things for myself too....I try to
make sure that at on an average at least one out of four projects is for
me, my "spousal unit" ;), or my house!  I'm not always successful (it's so
hard to tell an eager appreciative child to wait), but I'm getting better!

Linda
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: dorothy@cvedc.prime.com (Dorothy Robinson)
Subject: making underwire bras
Organization: Computervision R&D, Beaverton OR
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 23:11:08 GMT

I'm in the process of teaching myself how to make bras.  This is motivated
by exasperation with storebought ones.  They fit miserably, ride up in back,
and produce a conical shape that I dislike.  Or at least, any one bra does
at least one of the above.

For my first experiment, I took store-bought bras and copied the best
features of each into a new one.  My first try was more or less a
success and my second one a one failure.  I think I'm rediscovering a lot
of priciples unnecessarily.  Surely the foundation-garment industry has
some information that isn't handed down orally and/or a jealously guarded
secret!  The local libraries are unhelpful, though.

Also I'm puzzled by how they specify sizes - ie, what are the
standard dimensions for a 36B underwire?  How is the depth of the cup
determined?  (Cubic centimeters?  Nah!)  I'm beginning to suspect that the
reason I have so much trouble with fitting is that I'm an A or B depth and
a D width.  When you think about it, surely breasts are more variable than
feet!

Does anyone know anything about this arcane art, or have a pointer to a
source of information?

===========================================================================
Dorothy Mokuren Robinson                           dorothy@cvedc.prime.com
     whose opinions are not those of...
Computervision             
14952 NW Greenbrier Parkway, Beaverton, Oregon 97006   Phone (503)690-7861
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: xxmills@alliant1.lerc.nasa.gov (Christine Mills)
Subject: Re: Making puffed sleeves puff....
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 14:28:29 GMT

>>  I am having a problem getting puffed sleeves to puff.  I've
>>  used the heavier weight interfacing cut just like the pattern
>>  calls for but my sleeves droop.  The fabric is lightweight cotton
>......
>
>I use a kind of stupid combination of nylon netting and interfacing.
>It isn't art, but it does get a nice puff.
>
>Cut 4 quarter moon shaped pieces of interfacing to make two "shoulder
>extensions"; these are sewn into the shoulder seam and provide the
>horizontal aspect of the puff. 
(stuff deleted)

I use a similar technique, using only interfacing.  The main trick is
to do as stated above.  Cut the interfacing as an extension and sew 
it into the sleeve seam at the shoulder, extending out into the sleve.
Here's my version.

Cut a half moon shaped piece of interfacing.  Cut it from notch 
to notch (you know, the little "notches" that mark the front of
the sleeve seam and the back of the sleeve seam.  Usually one 'notch'
for the front, two 'notches' for the back).  Now, take that half moon
and run gathering stitches along the seam line.  Gather to 
whatever size puff you want.  The half moon can be adjusted in size, 
as well as by how much you gather it.  You may have to play around
a bit to get just the right size.  I did.  Anyway, that's my
contribution.  Good luck.  I love puffy sleeve blouses and dresses
too.  So glad their in 'fashion' right now.

Christine Mills
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: giving handmade gifts
Date: 11 Sep 92 22:28:30 GMT

>If you give me
>something that needs more care than I'm willing to give, tough.  I
>don't care how much time and effort you lavished over it, it'll hang
>in my closet for a while and then ... off to "New to You".

I guess I am amazed to find that someone would not feel that a
hand knitted sweater was worth sending to the dry cleaners
rather than throwing it in the washing machine! I always
include "care instructions" with my gifts if they require anything
out of the ordinary, and never give a baby quilt or children's
clothes that can't be machine washed and dried. 

I try to take my friend's decorating style
and clothing tastes into consideration, altho it's always possible
to guess wrong, I suppose. Wouldn't it be kinder to ask the person
if they'd like the handmade gift back, before you chuck it in the 
trash or give it to charity??? 

The one thing I will do from now on,
is ask if the person likes this particular project before I start it.
At least that will give them a chance to veto the colors, etc. before
I put any time into it. One thing about making gifts, I only make
things I enjoy making, so in a way I have received some satisfaction
from the gift before we even give it. The person who always buys gifts
will never know the true meaning of "it is as much fun to give as it
is to receive".

> I do sometimes make something on speculation and then
>ask the intended recipient if they'd like it but I never wrap
>something up and thrust it on them, expecting gratitude.

I have given my friend other handmade gifts which she did thank me
for, and displayed in her home, and she has frequently told
me she loves handmade things. These are not the signals to send out 
if she doesn't really want to get handmade gifts! And she makes homemade
jam and gives that for gifts, and tells me how cheap it is, she was able
to spend only $1.50 per person last year at Christmas. This gives her
great satisfaction, evidently, but seems to reinforce her belief that
people only give handmade gifts to save money.

> If you can't accept
>the possibility of your work being unappreciated, don't give it away
>unless you _know_ (perhaps by asking before you start) that the
>recipient wants it.

I don't think we are saying we expect undying gratitude, just
a little consideration for our feelings. After all, what if someone BUYS
you a gift that you don't like? Don't we all have an Aunt Ethel who gives
us a hideous ornament for the mantel, and whenever she comes to visit
we dash to put it out so she can see it is appreciated? Which is more
important, my decorating scheme or Aunt Ethel's feelings? I think that
is why we are upset, when we realize a friend puts their own convenience
over our feelings, or doesn't realize that our feelings might be hurt at
all. It's hard to accept thoughtlessness from those we call "best friend". 

--marina
From: tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Weight of Petit Bateau Rib Knits
Date: 12 Sep 92 07:56:58 GMT
Distribution: alt
Organization: Sylvan Associates

Well, since the latest Hanna Andersson catalog lists the weights for
their various fabrics, I decided to do an actual comparison with the
Petit Bateau rib knits that I got from Sew Natural and the Hanna rib
knit.

I weighed two different pieces of different dimensions, did the math
and found out that a 36x36 inch square of the Petit Bateau rib knit
after washing was 5.7 - 5.9 ounces. The Hanna rib knit is 5 oz, which
I'd guess they weighed before washing, those cottons do shrink. So the
Petit Bateau knit is the same weight (I don't think it's actually
heavier, I've fondled our Hannas and the Petit Bateau shirts I've made
repeatedly, and I don't feel a difference).

And the heavy interlock Hanna uses is 9 oz, and I bought 10 oz
interlock (available in only a few colors each season) from Sewing
Sampler (not cheap, but cheaper than buying clothing from Hanna's
catalog).

I'm *excited*, now all I need to do is get some sewing done, and give
some stuff to my mil to do for me!
-- 

Tigger (Grace Sylvan)                Mom of Katherine Yelena, 8/8/89 &
tigger@satyr.sylvan.com              Robin Gregory born 2/28/92

 "It seems to me that our large goal is to find the ways to help our
 children become humane and strong."
 
              - Dr Haim Ginott quoted by Adele Faber & Elaine Mazlish
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: giving handmade gifts
Date: 11 Sep 92 21:31:18 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <SHAFER.92Sep11175356@ra.dfrf.nasa.gov>, shafer@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov (Mary Shafer) writes:
> On 11 Sep 92 22:28:30 GMT, Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume) said:
> 
> MS> I don't think we are saying we expect undying gratitude, just
> MS> a little consideration for our feelings. After all, what if someone BUYS
> MS> you a gift that you don't like? Don't we all have an Aunt Ethel who gives
> MS> us a hideous ornament for the mantel, and whenever she comes to visit
> MS> we dash to put it out so she can see it is appreciated? Which is more
> MS> important, my decorating scheme or Aunt Ethel's feelings? 
> 
> I've sent things my mother-in-law gave me to the thrift store.  You
> think I'm going to worry about Aunt Ethel?  My taste in how I'm going
> to furnish my home and how I'm going to dress is a lot more important
> to me than appeasing some gift giver.

I've just had to cope with a sort of opposite problem.  Made my mom a
needlepoint pillow years ago to coordinate with her living room.  She's
finally redecorated, and that pillow has the WRONG!!!! colors.  She was
so afraid she'd hurt my feelings that the pillow was _still_ on the
couch (erp!). I had to argue to get it relegated to the cedar chest for
"some other time". 

Kay Klier
From: ctopp@cup.portal.com (Carol F Topp)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Goodwill stores as a source - was Fabriholics Anon
Date: Wed,  9 Sep 92 09:55:33 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
  <1992Sep2.172933.14719@adobe.com> <1992Sep3.204945.24142@StarConn.com>
  <1992Sep8.224909.24436@Cadence.COM>

Fran Peterson told us about the find of an ultrasuede skirt at goodwill.
I've never actually done it, but I've heard that goodwill type stores
can be a good source for ribbing. The selection of cuffs and collars
in good shape can be much greater than the selection of material at most
fabric stores.

Carol
From: lcatlett@milton.u.washington.edu (Lynn Catlett)
Subject: Re: Goodwill stores as a source - was Fabriholics Anon
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 23:56:07 GMT

oyez! oyez!!  When I moved cross-country I
brought what-fit-in-the-car:  ONE box of
clothes, ONE box of books, ... and ONE box
of wool skirts (etc) from the secondhands
that were someday going to become a quilt...
Those skirts had made that trip before!  
They were getting to like it and demanding
to sit in the front seat!  I had to do it, 
Judge--I donated them to someone who would
REALLY MAKE A QUILT!  (that'll learn 'em)

Now I have room for all my embroidery stuff
and costumes and weaving things....

In the words of the great Toad of Toad Hall:
Boop! Boop!!

(can I go home now?)
Lynnnnnnnnn
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: How to sew with metallic thread
Date: 5 Sep 92 23:27:10 GMT
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133

Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume) writes:

>I decided to wind some DMC metallic thread onto a bobbin
>and try one of my sewing machine's fancy embroidery stitches
> ...

>So, has anyone managed to do machine embroidery with metallic thread
>successfully? How? 

Metallic thread works best for me as the top thread, not in the bobbin. 
Try using a 90/14 stretch needle, and a little Sewers Aid on the spool of
thread. You shouldn't need stabilizer unless you'd also need it for
sewing the same stitch on the same fabrics with ordinary thread.

Sally Holmes
sallyh@starconn.com