HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: checksix@flyboy.EBay.Sun.COM (Al Conte)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: STARTING
Keywords: relax !!!In article <1992Nov09.074952.17392@convex.com> couyant@convex.com (George Couyant) writes:
Date: 10 Nov 92 23:20:01 GMT
Reply-To: checksix@flyboy.EBay.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: flyboy.ebay.sun.com

>No big deal really, but just beware that any 2 stroke oil begins
>breaking down the moment it's mixed with petrol. The longer you
>leave it, the further the break down. 

>  Hey George, could you elaborate on this?  I just burned the premix I had
>sitting in my garage for a few months last weekend and, as far as I can tell, >nothing bad happened.  I even went through some sandy areas that taxed the
>motor a bit.

>  What should I look for?  Gumminess, fouling, seizing?  How does it break
>down?


Look, it takes months and months for the premix to breakdown.
You should spike the gas with some octane booster though.
Gas looses it's octane potential after a few weeks.
This might cause some pinging under load.
On another point, if any gas / premix is left out for long periods of time,
moisture will weasel it's way into the mixture.
The amount that effects performance with a bike is directly related to a specific
bike.
If you store premix for more than a few months, in an airtight container I hope,
just throw in a couple ounces of octane booster into the premix to regain
the nice high octane level required by today's dirt scoots.
Then relax !!!



Al Conte
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: cm403173@longs.LANCE.ColoState.Edu (Christopher Macbeth)
Subject: Keeping an XR 350 Dry?
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1992 01:10:05 GMT
Organization: Colorado State U. Engineering College

I have a 1983 XR 350.  I was wondering if anyone had ideas on how to keep
the bike running well after it gets wet.

If the bike gets a -LITTLE- water on it it runs really lousy.  I do mean
a little water, like going thru a section of runoff water about 1 inch
deep and only 20 yards long.  I've also had it through 1 foot deep water
about 20 yards long and it runs just as poorly, no better, no worse.    
Even if I go through a deep section really fast and take a shower it is
the same reaction as if I just go through a little water.

A common scenario:  Go through some H2O, enough to splash onto my boots,
within 30 sec. the bike is misfiring and backfiring at mid-range.  If I can
get it to rev higher it runs OK, if I stall, I'm screwed.  So when it gets 
wet I have to keep it screaming until it dries (3-10 min.), or have a 
bucking-bronco ride until it dries.

I can't tell if its ignition or fuel. 

The thing that's funny is it acts like an ignition problem at 1/4 to
1/3 throttle, but above that (providing I can get the engine to rev) it runs OK.
I can't tell why it only acts this way at lower revs.

I checked the plug wire since the front wheel sends everything that way
and it seems OK.  I did screw the plug cap onto the wire a little further
but the problem still persists.  Everything else seems to be in order.

I'd appreciate any feedback on this, its a real pain going around every
little puddle I come to. 

Geez, don't tell me my bike is a cat and just
inherantly dispises getting wet; that would be Just Dessert since I'm 
not much of a cat fan.

Thanx.

Chris.

Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: edh@wheeler.unr.edu (Ed Hackett)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: Winter Riding Questions
Date: 12 Nov 92 19:08:54 GMT
Reply-To: edh@wheeler.unr.edu (Ed Hackett)
Organization: Desert Research Institute, University of Nevada

In article <1992Nov9.142841.29479@gandalf.ca> wardman@gandalf.ca (Russel Wardman) writes:
>In <124510145@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> jld@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Deeney) writes:

>>Second question: icing carbs.  I've been told that in really cold and moist
>>conditions, the additional venturi cooling of the carb can lead to major 
>>icing problems.  Some folks told me to wrap the carb in aluminum foil to 
>>direct engine heat onto it.  Myth or truth?  

Actually, carb icing is only a problem when the temperatures are
above freezing.   The problem is caused by liquid water freezing
out in the venturi due to the cooling effect.  If the temperature
is below freezing, the vapor is already frozen, so it passes right
through.  The most common tempreratures for icing are between 70
and 32 degrees F.

The carb on most bikes sits behind the engine, so it should recieve
enough  heat to keep it above freezing.  Carb ice is a funny thing.
Some intake designs ice up much worse than others.  If you have
trouble, like the Weber tuning manual says: the only way to
tell is to "suck it and see". If you do have a problem, a bit of
foil or something to direct more heat may help.

>The best way to eliminate carb icing is to run aviation gas (av gas)
>as it is made to avoid this problem. Mix it 50/50 with your regular gas.

The type of gas has nothing to do with carb icing.  It is liquid
water vapor freezing onto the venturi, mostly just as it narrows
down, before the jets.   The carburators on small aircraft are
located below the engine and receive almost no heat from the
engine.  They are the most likely to ice because of both location
and design.  That's why there is a control for carb heat,
and you use it _anytime_ you are operating the engine at partial
throttle.   I once iced up taxiing from the ramp to the run up
area, on a 70 degree summer morning.  I don't think I ever turned
the carb heat off that day. :-)

Jeff, where's Debbie?  I'm lonely, and Baa Baa just isn't as much
fun.  She doesn't have as many options.


 Ed Hackett   edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu     The Desert Research Institute 
 DoD #0200  WMTC  BMWRA  DIOC             Reno, Nevada   (702) 673-7380   
 KotLS  KtoLE  DotD #0003            I'm not really a chemist, I'm just one of
 900SS  K100RS  501 CAMEL            them motorsickle sonsabitches.  __=o&o>__
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: couyant@convex.com (George Couyant)
Subject: Re: Super Doug's first trophy
Organization: CONVEX Computer Pty Limited, Melbourne, Australia
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1992 07:55:10 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In Article <1defpbINN54h@male.EBay.Sun.COM>, checksix@flyboy.EBay.Sun.COM (Al Conte) writes:

> 
> This one was for the best effort by anyone during the day.
> He called Doug up to the table, the people went nuts cheering for him.
> You should of seen his face when the guy handed him his trophy.
> 
> PS, he slept with the trophy that night!

	Awww geeee...... now I feel all warm and gooey....

	Onyamate!
	George C.

Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com (That's DOCTOR KDX200 to YOU!)
Subject: Re: KDX200 Exhaust hop up - Poor mans Aftermarket silencer
Reply-To: cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:03:53 GMT



>cooper@kdx200.enet.dec.com writes:
>>ditch the airbox lid in favor of a 89KX125 lid...There is 3
>>HP to be had there believe it or not!!
>
>Why not ditch the lid entirely?  I did on my 92 KDX 200 and
>performance is excellent.  I also removed the regulator
>which was mounted on the lid.  That was no problem, because I
>also took the lights off and the regulator was no longer needed.
>If you need to keep the regulatr, just zip tie it to the frame
>or inside the airbox via some holes you drill near the top.
>Don't forget to re-jet!

Why not ditch the lid??  Do you ride near water??  :)

When an RMEC Enduro entry form says "waterproof your bike!"
they mean it.  :)  Right Merf??

The '89 KX125 airlid is a thin chuck of plastic that keeps the 
splashed stuff out.  It doesn't cover the hole much, just kind of 
makes a "lip".  There is a BUNCH of horsepower in yanking the stock 
"snorkel" though!!

>>The stock silencer can be taken apart into three sections:
>
>What year KDX 200?  When I checked out the parts blowup on
>my 92 KDX 200 silencer, I did not see any packing.  A friend
>told me there was no packing in the newer silencers (89-93).
>This is why I've never had mine apart for repacking, which
>I would normally do on a 2-stoke several times a year.

Mine is an '89.  I'm under the impression that besides the addition
of the voltage regulator ('89 and '90 KDX's didn't have 'em and blew 
bulbs at a high rate of speed.  :) the bikes are identical...Now the
'93's have a staggering price tag and upside down forks (big whoopie).

Anyway, My '89 had stuffing in the silencer.  I repacked it regularly,
and it's louder than the S/A Pro that I have on my bike...  The S/A Pro
along with the ProCircuit pipe makes mine a little more "tinny" sounding
though - I guess because the stock pipe is double walled stuff.  The exhaust 
note is definately quieter though.  Cool eh??

>I'm a big fan of quiet bikes.  It's friendlier and more
>acceptable to non-riders, and my ears don't get so tired 8-)

We ALL need to be part of that "Project Stealth" thing.  I agree,
quiet bikes will keep you riding in your favorite places longer.

At any rate, the  modification I posted doesn't increase the noise level, 
it just gives you a little more flow.

Ditch your water-over-flow tank while you workin' on it!

jc
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: couyant@convex.com (George Couyant)
Subject: Re: 4 Stroke Supertrapp question
Organization: CONVEX Computer Pty Limited, Melbourne, Australia
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 11:33:03 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In Article <4164@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>, ames@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Wes Ames) writes:

> I have been considering winter time projects on my 1984 Honda
> XR200.  I have put up with hard starting and a tendency to
> foul plugs for long enough (I've had the bike for two years).

	Fouling plugs on an XR200? Something's not right.

> So, I thought I would go with a better (than stock) air filter,
> and re-jet the carbs (I'm wondering if a previous owner had
> changed jets for power, and created the plug fouling).  

	Good place to start and easy to check if it's not stock.
> 
> Then, a local bike shop suggested the Supertrapp exhaust, and the
> addition of extra plates to become more free-flowing.  The 
> extra plates would require new jets (or it would run lean),	
> but since mine is running rich, I could tune the exhaust much
> easier than changing jets.

	Never seen a Supertrapp on an XR200. Sure it would flow better and
	maybe give you more power, but man, they are too load with a few
	spacers in there.

	First check your jetting and float level. It could simply be a
	high float level causing the "rich" feeling and hard starting.

	A quick and painless way to check the float level is to get a
	clear piece of plastic tubing and shove one end over the float
	bowl drain hole. Bend the tube up to form a "J" so that the top of
	the tube is above the level of the float bowl. Open the drain
	screw and viola! the fuel level in the tube rises to the same
	level as that in the float bowl. Oh yea, make sure the bike's
	level first and don't forget to open the fuel tap.

	Then when all that's fixed, try the exhaust etc. Otherwise you 
	could be just disguising the real problem.

	Supertrapp works well on big bores. BUT to get decent power, you
	need to put plenty of plates in there and they become LOUD. They
	don't work well (too restrictive) when you have try to keep the
	noise down with only a few plates. I think that there are other
	exhausts out there that perform well and are still quiet. I get
	tired of listening to Joe Average complaining about how his
	weekends in the bush are spoiled by the constant vroom vroom in
	the distance.

	Don't mean to sound like a stodgy old fart, but it's important
	(low noise).

	Cheers
	George C.




From: jld@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Deeney)
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 06:47:48 GMT
Subject: Winter Riding Questions
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt

I'd like to compare notes on setting up bikes for winter riding.  I haven't
done a lot in the past, but this year I'm determined to keep riding in
anything less than case-deep snow.  

First question:  studs.  I used hex head sheet metal screws in the past.  
The heads wore down pretty quickly.  Do the special stud-screws wear any
better?  I recall seeing some advertised with hardened heads.  Also, rear
tires tend to throw out screws.  I've been told that a drop of super-glue
on each screw helps this.  Does the glue really work?   Should I put a stud
in every knob that is big enough?  

Second question: icing carbs.  I've been told that in really cold and moist
conditions, the additional venturi cooling of the carb can lead to major 
icing problems.  Some folks told me to wrap the carb in aluminum foil to 
direct engine heat onto it.  Myth or truth?  

Third question:  am I nuts trying to ride a mega-thumper over icy rocks? 

-Jeff Deeney-  KotD #0000  DoD#0498    NCTR    '88 XR600-Shamu   
jld@hpfcpe.fc.hp.com       AMA#540813  COHVCO  '81 CB750F-Llamaha 
We don't stop riding because it gets cold, we get cold because we stop riding.
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: ramz@beta.lanl.gov (Thomas Rick Ramsey)
Subject: Kawasaki 4-stroke info
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 14:05:10 GMT

After I got home last night and looked at the Cycle News article on
the new Kawasaki 4-stroke motorcycles, I was dismayed to discover
that I got most of the numbers wrong in my recent posting.  I checked
with the dealer, and have now determined that we were mixing up the
numbers between the new KLX and the old KLR.  So, now that I have
the article in front of me, here's the information as printed.
Sorry about the confusion  8-)


Model       KLX650R                    KLX650
Type        Off-road                   Street legal
Engine      651cc, liquid cooled,      651cc, liquid cooled,
	    4-stroke single,           4-stroke single,
	    4 valves/cylinder,         4 valves/cylinder,
	    dual stage cam chain,      dual stage cam chain,
	    automatic comp release,    automatic comp release,
	    electrofusion cylinder,
	    light flywheel
Ignition    digital                    ?
Carb        40mm semi-flat slide CVK   40mm semi-flat slide CVK
Starting    leg                        electric w/maintenance-free battery
Frame       perimeter                  perimeter
Forks       fat-top 43mm               fat-top 43mm
Shock       bottom-link Uni-Trak,      bottom-link Uni-Trak
	    nitrogen charged,          ?
	    16-way compression and
	    rebound adjustment
Brakes      disk, front and rear       disk, front and rear
Weight      276 lbs dry                337 lbs dry
Color       lime green                 black
Price       $4500                      $4700

Pictures of the bikes show the following:

KLX650R off-road model - KDX-type headlight/number plate and handguards,
KDX type front and rear fenders, with a small light on the rear,
no tool bag, largish side number plates, exhaust pipe looks stainless
steel with a long muffler, KX-looking gas tank and radiator shrouds,
plastic lower guard on rear disk brake, loong seat.
The bike looks very uncluttered, and it's strange to see a KX-looking
tank/shroud over a skinny 4-stroke pipe; it enhances the clean look
and makes the bike appear slim.
The frame looks black or dark blue, while the plastic looks lime-green.

KLX650 street model - rectangular street headlighy w/small number plate,
mirrors, handguards, high front fender, high back fender with a medium
size tail-light and mud guard/license plate holder attached, no tool
bag but a small aluminum-looking rack is affixed behind the long seat,
rear-set off-road style side number plates, aluminum muffler, metal
gas tank with largish radiator shrouds, frame-mounted passenger pegs.
The frame looks lime-green, while the plastic looks black.
The bike looks much better than the old KLR, but it's not near as nice
looking as it's off-road sibling.  I don't care for black, either.

That's all for now, folks.  I'll have more after seeing the sales
literature at the dealer tomorrow.
-- 
Rick Ramsey  ramz@lanl.gov  Los Alamos, NM  505/662-2447 evenings.
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: baxter@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Baxter)
Subject: Re: moto-workouts
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 21:43:11 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.143330.787@skitzo.dseg.ti.com> frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com writes:
>
>> The only other input I've got is from Mike B. and he makes me sick.  He
>> doesn't go to the gym, doesn't do any aerobic exercises, he just races and
>> occasionally practices.  Yet, he's 125 lbs of twisted steel that can fly.
>> His is from genetics, what do the less genetically gifted larger people do?
>
>  Ok, I'll go one step further..  Mike!  Your'e a freak of nature! :-)
>  We've got to pour more beer into that guy and fatten him up a bit.

You guys will be happy to know that I'm going to start working out again.  My
goals are to make it 1 hour on the stair master and gain whatever amount of 
muscle I can in the time that I'm working out.  I made it to 45 minutes last 
winter.  I just want to stay in shape for the 1993 season coming up.  I find
that I really just get winded.  After I pit and get that short break, I'm 
usually fine for the remainder of the race.  As for muscle I would have to say
that my upper body is definitely the weak link. ( Hey watch it or get roosted!)
I have got to be in shape to compete with those experts or I'm going to get
left in the dust!


_____________________________________________________________________________
DoD #359       Current bike '91  CR250 |         Mike Baxter   
AMA #607249    Current num....061      |              
TCCRA  #761  for 1993                  |      baxter@spdc.ti.com
250cc Expert                           |
Texas Cross-Country racing series      |   Texas Instruments, Dallas Tx.   
50 miles of off-road Hell              |  
_______________________________________|_____________________________________
Disclaimer:  The opinions expressed above are my very own, becuase 
             if they were worth anything TI would patent them.
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: hambel@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (george.a.hambel)
Subject: Re: Novice again
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 13:55:04 GMT

In article  tim@intrepid.gsfc.nasa.gov (Tim Seiss) writes:
>>Orange?  ORANGE?  Were Yamahas ever orange.  Now, _that's_ weird.  I remember
>>yellow YZ's (which evenutally turned white) and White TT's... but no orange.

Don't you think that Yamaha should start making th YZs in yellow and
black again?  It was such a hot bike.  

-----------------------------------------------------
|George A. Hambel		hambel@aloft.att.com|
|AT&T Bell Laboratories		215-439-6050        |
-----------------------------------------------------
From: Joseph.Cascio@kennel.FIDONET.ORG (Joseph Cascio)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: helmet 4 sale
Date: 9 Nov 92 07:58:04 GMT
Organization: Fido's Kennel, Cupertino CA

I have a Beioffee(sp) helmey and misc riding gear for sale. The helmet is like new. Med size NO HARD HITS!  ( Istoped riding because of my arm)
--  
Joseph Cascio
UUCP: uts.amdahl.com!kennel!Joseph.Cascio
INTERNET: Joseph.Cascio@kennel.FIDONET.ORG
"The views expressed above are those of Joseph Cascio only."
From: frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: Oil and clutches
Date: 11 Nov 92 07:57:12 CDT
Organization: Texas Instruments Component Test Facility

In article <1992Nov10.215302.10390@spdc.ti.com>, baxter@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Baxter) writes:
> In article <1992Nov10.082303.795@skitzo.dseg.ti.com> frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com writes:
>>  I plan to race a couple of motos this Sunday with the ATF.  I'll let
>>  you know if I could tell any difference.  Gawd, I hope it doesn't
>>  explode or something!  If I dont place after the hell rides that Andy 
>>  and Mike have put me through, I might just explode. 
> 
> 
> Hell ride, HELL RIDE!  Mark I'll have you know that I am the Master of the
> Nasty Trails from Hell.  Just ask Andy, every time I lead I end up finding the
> worst trails within 100 square miles and then I get the pleasure of having 
> everyone following me complain.  It's not that I do it on purpose, it just ends
> up that way.  

  On the positive side, IMHO its heathy to have someone lead you through 
  things you would normally not do like cross a river, a vertical with
  a lip, do a wilderness double.  Its those who dare us, who infact makes
  us better.  I definately have not been taking enough dares.

> Anyway, good luck this weekend.  I'm sending my bike with Andy 

  Thanx man.  But I'm afraid I'm doomed.  Its a GNC series "Top of Texas".
  race.  I've not yet recovered from the slack time off the bike to do
  such a race.  But hey, I'll probably be the only 125 rider in a pack of 25
  "old men" on 500s.  I can't resist the challenge.  I'm probably going to
  get busted up pretty bad, I can't wait!

> and Todd just in case they break that their $150 isn't wasted. I really wanted
> to go, but my $150 needs to go back into my bike.

  You ought to go along.  When I went to the Tony D. school "there" it was
  pretty informal.  While we were working in groups there were quite a few
  non-students buzzing other portions of the track.  If such conduct is not
  approved you can sneak off to any of the trails or hang out with the pit
  mechanics. 
_________________________________________________________________________
mark frampton....O/30 NOVICE   |    You can ride as long as you are alive,
frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com    |      as long as you can take the pain.
                               |
From: ryang@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu (Robert H. Yang)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: RE: Steering Geometry
Date: 7 Nov 92 16:31:45 -0500
Reply-To: ryang@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Organization:  

Hi,

	I also noticed that the forks had air valves in the top of them.
I was curious to know what the accepted procedure is for setting this up.
Is this like setting preload on a street bike ?

Rob
--
Rob Yang (Pittsburgh, PA, U.S.A) RYANG@DRYCAS.CLUB.CC.CMU.EDU
'92 CBR600F2 (Hon) "It hisses on snakes."   AMA 642916   DoD 0593
'79 XT500 (The Bitch)        '90 Plymouth Laser RS (Sweetie)

From: mcclend@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Mike McClendon)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:49:25 GMT
Subject: Re: CDI problems fixed
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt

"MKE"... don't have the can anymore, so I'm not sure, but it probably was
MEK -- methyl ethyl ketone -- plus other solvents in a mix very much like
paint stripper.  I put the CDI + solvent in a beaker, on a hot plate, and it
took three days for it to work.  About twice a day I'd pull away any loose
material with an X-acto knife and needle nose pliers.  This Honda unit had
very thick, silicone-rubber  like potting plus a rubber-like case, all of 
which very nicely dissolved yet I could still read the numbers on the PC
board and most components.

-- Mike