HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: EOS A2E/5 CF16 ?
Date: 12 Jan 93 13:31:41 GMT

In <1993Jan12.080937@lprhp3.epfl.ch> dex@lprhp3.epfl.ch (Christian Decurnex) writes:

>Hello the net,

>Could some explain how the cuztomized function CF16 work on the new
>EOS5/A2E ?

>From the manual, when CF16 is enabled, it suppress the automatic
>reduction of the flash.
>what does it mean ? how and when does this automatic reduction work ?
>			  
I don'thave an A2E (or manual for that matter), but I'll give it a try...

When the ambient brightness goes above EV10 (ISO 100), Canon decides
that you're in a bright environment and that all you want is *fill*
flash.  So, between EV10 and EV13, there is a gradual reduction in
flash output to achieve the "fill" effect.  At EV13 and above, the
flash reduction is at -1.5 stops.

I think this feature is thrown in so that one does not have to "second
guess" the camera and figure out where it is on the flash programme
curve.  Nice touch for those who like "hands on" photography!

Get a "Speedlite Reference Guide".  It's all covered there.

ACS

-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: Larry.Borden@f19.n116.z1.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: VIEW CAMARA
X-Sender: newtout 0.06 Jan  3 1993
Date: 05 Jan 93 00:56:08

I've always wanted to own and use a 4x5 or 8x10 view camara. I know that they 
are heavy and cumbersome, but the idea of carefully considering a scene or
person and capturing that scene is this large format holds a zen-like quality 
for me. Perhaps it is the sense that "it" needs to be released to place the
camara just "so" and to release the shutter just "when". I own seveal 35mm
camaras and I would give them all up to have back the Hasse. I had to sell 12 
years ago. 

Can anyone suggest a good quality 4x5 and/or 8x10 which is at once portable
and of excellent quality. Swings and tilts front and rear preferred, but not
the only factor. I would like to transport this equipment to remote locations 
via backpack and return with studio quality images of life, people, and
places. Any help you can offer is appreciated.

Lawrence Borden

--- TMail v1.31
From: allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 02:53:27 GMT
Subject: Re: Edwal TG7
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Jay.Mason@f100.n3609.z1.fidonet.org writes:

>    I am looking for any input from people who have used Edwal TG7 with
>    Ilford  B&W films. And also if it is true that I can use the time
>allotment for say tmax 100 for hp5 at iso 100 . Or were can i find out
> what the times should be?

Warning about Edwal FG-7: The times printed on the back of the bottle
may not be correct. Using the recommended time of 7 minutes at 1:15 and
68'F with Ilford FP4, I got really thin negatives. Even the printed
frame numbers were thin.

In the class I've been taking, we use 9 minutes at 70'F. This seems to
work ok in my home darkroom, but it's still a little on the thin side.

A guy at the camera store said that all the numbers on the bottle are low
by about 20%. If anything, I'd say more like 30%.

Part of my problem was also that I had just gotten the Patterson tanks
and was using the rotation agitation instead of the standard inversion
technique which seems to work much better.

Allan
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: llemmerm@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Lloyd Lemmermann)
Subject: free magazines!
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 20:45:59 GMT

Keywords:

Before I add to our nation's landfill woes, I thought I'd see if I can give 
away (for the price of postage) a collection of Photomethods.  The bunch of 
100+ mags dates from about '79 through '89, with gaps here and there.

If you're not familiar with Photomethods, it's a trade-journal type magazine 
that deals with photography applied to industry.  It's not a collector's dream.
I understand it now goes by the name of Photo Electronic Imaging.

Please E-mail your responses.  As they say- this offer won't last long.  Nor 
will our landfill space, especially if no one wants these.  But don't feel 
guilty...:*)

Lloyd Lemmermann
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 5 Jan 93 15:28:12 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <TIM.93Jan4123851@nijinsky.ipac.caltech.edu> tim@nijinsky.ipac.caltech.edu (Tim Conrow) writes:
>In <C00D8z.Mw3@jrd.dec.com> diamond@jit533.jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond) writes:
>
>>In article <1992Dec28.164753.21867@research.nj.nec.com> lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Duan-Shin Lee) writes:
>
>>>I think the screen with MF aid that you talk about is the microprism screen. 
>>>Can you point out some evidence that this screen messes up the metering
>>>system?
>
>>On an F-801, none that I know of.  On an F-801s, the manual says that the
>>microprism screen for F-801 can be used in F-801s but that spot metering is
>>no longer usable.  I don't know how badly it messes up spot metering.  I wish
>>I could get microprism around the center spot rather than in it, and also
>>have the grid outside of that.  Where oh where are the third parties....
>
>The micro-prism focussing aid certainly DOES mess up spot metering on the
>8008s. I know this by experimentation with my own equipment. there is also
>a warning to this affect in the manual. I am not aware of any problems
>with other metering modes.
>

I don't know much about interchangeable screens or Nikons in general (I'm a
Canon man), but I would imagine that the amount of "messing up" caused by
the microprism screen on the spot metering would be constant.  All you would
need to do is take some test slides with lots of bracketing, figure out how
much more or less exposure you need from what the meter tells you, and just
apply that correction each time.  Or am I missing something?

>-- Tim

Mike

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bob@hpwin052.uksr.hp.com (Bob Easton)
Subject: Re: OTF Metering Inaccuracies
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 10:05:23 GMT
Organization: the HP UK Response Centre
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Mike Coren (mikec@spider.co.uk) wrote:
| 
| 
| As an aside to some recent discussions here about off-the-film (OTF) metering,
| which I think grew out of the Canon vs. Nikon debate, there was a small blurb
| about OTF metering in a supplement to the January '93 issue of "Photo Answers"
..
| Unfortunately, the guy writing this article (Ron Spillman) didn't think anyone
| might be interested in how much correction is needed for these films.  I guess
| you're on your own!

Ahah, so that's where Ron Spillman went! His column (3 pages each week)
in Amateur Photographer was a mine of information, so I was rather
dissapointed when it disappeared after Xmas. It says something that AP
has had to use a panel of around 8 experts to replace him! (But no, I
won't be switching to Photo Answers :^)

Bob

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Bogen dollies
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:27:21 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.021924.24663@walter.bellcore.com>, hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:
> Does anybody in the net own any of the Bogen dollies?   From the tripod
> literature, there are five models.  They all seem to have a 3/8" tripod
> screw.   Do you think that your Bogen dolly is sturdy enough to hold a total 
> of 20 lbs weight (a head and a camera) securely?   Does it vibrate if you
> push down the center?   Any caveats?
> 

Don't own one (yet ) but have looked at the dolly for the 58 ( TriArt ). Solid
as a rock, but easier to move :-) iff you remember to unlock the wheels.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (User Chen)
Subject: Help: Leica camera
Organization: Clemson University, Clemson SC
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 03:44:14 GMT

I just collected one Leica M2 and three lenses but I don't have Leica
handbook with me.  I don't know any history of these equipments.
Does anybody on the net can tell me about the history of these Leica
equipments.

Leica body M2: serial #116498X
Leica 50mm sumicron f:2, serial #218272X
Leica 35mm summicron f:2, serial #222298X
Leica 135mm Elmarit f:2.8, serial #228897X

I appreciate anyone who can give me the information.

Thank you all.

Eric
From: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Problem with Canon FTb Frame Counter
Date: 10 Jan 93 13:48:16 GMT
Reply-To: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

In article <1993Jan10.000450.7497@cs.UAlberta.CA>, rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel) writes:
>
>I just noticed that my FTb has stopped reseting the frame counter correctly.
> Instead of going down to -2 (or so), it sets to only 22 when I pop the
> back open.  It has just started with this behaviour. I have also found that
> if I keep winding, the counterwill get to 38 and stay there.
>
>Now, I suppose I could count in my head, but:	1) is it a problem to fix?
>2) will I damage something by winding past the 38?

In response to 1) it may be caused by a bit of dirt or it could be something
mechanical causing the frame counter dial to stop on its return resetting
action. If it is cleaning only then this should be easily done by almost any
competent repair outfit. If it is mechanically jammed at 22 or the counter
mechanism is broken somehow, then repair will be a bit more tricky since parts
for this camera are possibly no longer available.

As for 2) you will not damage anything by winding "past" 38. In fact, most
counters stop counting at about this frame number by design.

andy


     .....                                                               \
.....|   |..                                                              \
            | Andrew Davidhazy, RIT, High Speed Photography Lab.           \
            :____________________________________________________ |'''''''\ \
            : IN%"andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu"    fax 716-475-5804  |......./ /
____________:                                                              /
                                                                          /
                                                                         /
From: akoticha@rnd.GBA.NYU.EDU (Apoorva Koticha)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Learning photography -- Advice wanted
Keywords: Advice wanted
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:24:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NYU Stern School of Business


I know some basics about photography, but need to learn much more.
Where/How should I go about doing this?  Is there an FAQ?

I have read a few basic books on photography, and have been regularly
subscribing to/read Popular Photography for the last 2.5 years.  I
need some teaching/lectures, a decent amount of assignments, and a
hell-of-a-lot of feedback/critiques (preferably harsh ones).

Possibilities include learn-at-home mail-order courses (Pop.
Photography had a review of the New York Inst. of Photo.), or
attending some classes.  

a)  Which is better (in terms of cost, learning, effectiveness, etc.)?

b)  What are good mail-order courses?

c)  What are good classroom courses in the new york city area?

I'm currently a grad. student at New York University, and have still
to investigate if there's anyhting on campus.

Thanx in advance
Apoorva

Follow-up to rec.photo, or email to:

akoticha@rnd.stern.nyu.edu

If there is interest, I shall summarize.
From: blue@sequent.com (Gil Delavous)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 4 Jan 93 09:58:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1993Jan4.095853.1306
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

In article <1992Dec28.164753.21867@research.nj.nec.com> lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Duan-Shin Lee) writes:
>>>>>What you want is a *real* focusing screen with a split prism or microprism
>>>>Yup.  I wonder where the third-party screens are for F-801s too.
>>>Actually, in the deepest, darkest catacombs of Nikon, there is a small
>>>set of screens with manual focusing aids for F-801s.  Alas, those
>>>screens mess up the exposure system.
> 
>>A small set of screens with exactly one element :-(  Yes, I agree with you,
>>and still wonder where the theird-party screens are.
> 
>I think the screen with MF aid that you talk about is the microprism screen. 
>Can you point out some evidence that this screen messes up the metering
>system?  According to the Nikon Handbook published by HP publisher,
>there are three screens available to the 8008.  The reason that there
>are only three screens available to the 8008 is because the light meter
>resides in the viewfinder and the focusing screens will affect the
>light meters.  The F3 has much more screens available, because the
>meter resides at the bottom of the camera.  The F4 has a lot of
>screens available, because there is an adjustment available in the finder
>(at least the standard finder).  I suppose that three screens available
>to the 8008 should give very close exposure results (at least my 2020 does).
>
>-- 
>Duan-Shin Lee
>C & C Research Lab, NEC USA
>Tel:(609)951-2456
>lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com

Don't want to flame but why do you compare an old camera with a brand new one?
I've seen at least 50 articles of this subject... I would rather compare the 10swith the N8008s (but I'm sure that was done hundred of times) and compare the
N90 with the EOS A2 instead!

Gil.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel)
Subject: Elan Grips
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 08:42:47 GMT


I'm posting this for a friend with an EOS Elan...

Are there any grips made for the camera which do
 not block the tripod mount?  (The one he has does,
 which is a sad thing.)

Thanks.


Rodney Gitzel
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: artc@iplmail.orl.mmc.com (Art Chang)
Subject: HELP-> taking double picture w/ Nikon
Organization: MMC
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 21:21:07 GMT


I have a Nikon N6006, and I would like to know
if it is possible to take double image on the 
same picture????


thanks
Art
From: milan@italia.boeing.com (Milan Richter)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Advice sought on 35mm slide projectors
Date: 7 Jan 93 00:34:06 GMT
Organization: Boeing Computer Services

Before Christmas I posted the following request, but got no answers.
Maybe it was bad time to ask. So here it is again, with additional
questions.

I am planning to buy a 35mm slide projector, and would like to ask for 

1. opinions about the usefulness of different features
2. recommendations for particular makes/models

I need something in the "middle of the road", not a cheap stuff but also
not a high-end professional equipment. It's for home use. I think I
should have an autofocus and perhaps a remote control (wire is fine).

I looked at the KODAK carousel projectors (4200, 4400, 4600, 5600) and
was somewhat put off by the esthetics of their appearance. Then I saw
briefly one Reflecta projector, that looked better. Finally I inspected
the Leica P150, which I liked most and the price seemed reasonable --
$299. Looks, however, can be deceiving. The salesperson claimed that
Leica has the best lens of them all. Any comments?

With respect to these choices, I'd also like to know what people think
about straight trays vs. carousels. If it is not too expensive, I'd like
to store the slides in the trays. What are the cost and space
considerations?

Please reply directly if you have suggestions. Many thanks for help!

-- Milan Richter, Seattle
From: moody@e4.ius.cs.cmu.edu (James Moody)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Question from a Non-Shutterbug
Date: 4 Jan 93 14:46:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C0C3pv.42F.2
Reply-To: moody@cs.cmu.edu
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center

Shutterbug?  Heck, I don't even qualify as a novice.

I have camera body for which I would like to buy a lens (it originally 
came with a fixed-focus lens set at about a foot).  The camera is about
10 years old, and is a Konika FT-1 with motor.  Could someone recommend
a reasonable general-purpose lens for this camera?  Assume it will be
used by a tourist for taking pictures of people standing in front of 
things.

I'd also appreciate pointers to good mail-order sources.

Hey, and while I have your ear, do you know of any good mail-order 
soruces for videotape and camcorder supplies (Panasonic batteries, for 
example)?

I don't usually read this newsgroup, but I will monitor it until this 
thread dies out, so direct e-mail isn't necessary.

Thanks.
-- 
James E. Moody Jr.	The Robotics Institute		(412) 268-2847
			Carnegie Mellon (University)	      CMU-BUGS
			Schenley Park
moody@cs.cmu.edu	Pittsburgh, PA 15213
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mac@mercury.Harris-ATD.com (Mike McDonald)
Subject: Re: Kodak RFS 2035 Film Scanner - Is it good?  Is $7194 a good price?
Organization: Advanced Technology Dept, Harris Corp, Melbourne, FL
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:25:44 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.201006.23162@odin.corp.sgi.com>, bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers) writes:

|> 
|> Bob ---
|> 
|> Welcome to 1993...
|> 
|> A new law went into effect this year...  If you ship to/from CA & most other
|> states, sales taxes will be charged at the rate of the receiving state.
|> 
|> No more free tax ride.
|> 
|> --- hans

  Who's law? I haven't heard of any new federal law dealing with this. In fact,
the federal courts this fall ruled that states can NOT force out of state
companies to collect sales tax for them. (Florida had a cow!) Now, you as a good
citizen, we've always suppose to have been paying the tax to your local collector
on our own. We've all been doing that, right?

  If you have any specifics on how this has changed, I'd be interested in know
more. (I'm thinking of buying a PC soon. Mail order of course.)

  Mike McDonald				Advanced Technology Dept.	
					Harris Corp.
  Email: mac@trantor.harris-atd.com	M.S. 16-1912
  Voice: (407) 727-5060			P.O. Box 37
  Fax:   (407) 729-3363			Melbourne, Florida 32902
From: russell@Apple.COM (Russell Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: "Pro" film vs. Kodacolor - que pasa?
Date: 7 Jan 93 16:45:39 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <1993Jan5.175014.47@pasadena-dc.bofa.com> robertson@pasadena-dc.bofa.com writes:
>I usually shoot Kodacolor Gold or Fuji Reala in my old Bronica.  What
>frustrates me is the results I get when I try to photograph sunsets or
>twilight.  Seems like the film doesn't have the range of whatever they use in
>those Nikon ads - sky is real light and stuff below the horizon is too dark.

Pay your lab to dodge and burn to get the range that's on the negative
to fit better onto the paper. Better yet in this kind of situation, use
a split ND filter. This is a filter that's clear over 1/3 to 1/2 its area,
and is a neutral density filter over the other 1/3 - 1/2. Versions are
available with a sharp transition or a gradual one, and with 1-3 stops
of neutral density. They are available in screw mounts (so your dividing
line must be near the middle) or for Cokin - style systems (which let you
put the split anywhere). Such filters are especially useful for
sunsets and landscapes at high altitudes taken during magic hours
(just after sunrise or before sunset).  

The photos you see in magazines were probably taken with Kodachrome 25 or
64, Velvia, or Fujichrome 50 or 100 slide film. These films have much less
tonal range than Kodacolor. The photographer probably used a split ND
filter or flash fill.
-- 
Russell Williams
Not speaking for Apple Computer
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sue-d@nwu.edu (SUE DAKIMOWICZ)
Subject: Black and White Photography - Can I do it?
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Northwestern Univ.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:41:56 GMT

First of all I would like to thank all of you who responded to my question
awhile back about the difference between the Canon Rebel and the Canon
Rebel II.

I did finally purchase  the Rebel II and I love it!!!!!!  I took it on my
honeymoon to St. Croix and the pictures are fabulous!!!

Well now, let me get back to my question.  I love black and white
photography (nature scenes and old buildings).  I'd love to try it.  Is all
I have to do it insert a roll of B&W and start snapping away then take it
to Walgreens for developing?  (yes I am an amatuer)  Should I get a
polarizing filter?

Im not interested in taking people pictures and I dont want to take a class
(yet).  I just want to know if it will work.

Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance  -  Sue

sue-d@nwu.edu
Northwestern University
Mechanical Engineering Department
Evanston, IL  60208
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Fluorescent safelights (was: constructing small darkrooms)
Date: 4 Jan 93 20:23:08 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Daniel Burstein writes:

>my notes:  Once upon a time there was a safelight based on LOW pressure
>sodium lighting.  The advantage of lp sodium is that it is monochromatic,
>at (i think...) 590 nm wavelngth, or a solid orange.

And that time is now!  It's called the "Thomas Duplex Safelight".  They're
tres expensive.  ~$200 list price and $182.50 in the May '92 Adorama ad.
They're also incredibly bright.  I have one in my 9x11 darkroom.  They're the
type that have "shutters" on the top which can be opened and closed by 
pulling on a chain.  With the shutters wide open I can easily read very fine
print by its light.

It appears to be less safe for variable contrast papers than for graded
papers.  I've tested it with Ilford Multigrade paper in Dektol 1:2, using
the standard technique of pre-fogging the paper to just below the level where a
visible gray is seen.  I found that with the shutters wide open it fogged
the paper in ~1-2 minutes.  I've found that with the shutters just barely open
I can expose my paper to it for 8 minutes safely.  Even at this level, it's
bright enough to read large print by.  I usually close the shutters all the
way while dodging/burning both to make it easier to see what I'm doing and
also to prevent fogging when doing complicated "recipes".

Even though I don't use the safelight to its full potential I'm still happy
with it as I don't have to mess with multiple safelights hanging from the
ceiling.  But I wouldn't have bought it had I not found one used in Shutterbug
for ~1/2 price.  Pity the poor seller.  He didn't package it properly and
it arrived with the bulb broken.  That's the most expensive part of the
lamp and he had to replace it nearly the price that I paid him.

Barry
--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp. | "It's much easier to go to exotic places and | 
| bjs@uts.ccc.amdahl.com      |  capture spectacular scenes than to take a   |
|                             |  spectacular picture of a really boring      |
|                             |  green pepper". - Anthony Tse                |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well. (I.e.  My statments are mine, not Amdahl's.)           |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo