HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: skelly@coral.bucknell.edu (Kelly Sean David)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: caged vs. loose bearings
Keywords: headset, bottom bracket
Date: 6 Oct 92 06:04:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: coral.1as6cvINNauk
Organization: Bucknell University, Lewisburg, PA, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: coral.bucknell.edu

In article <1992Oct6.040751.25849@leland.Stanford.EDU> sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov) writes:
>The other day in the library I was reading a bicycle repair book
>about overhauling the headset (my mountain bike needs its headset
>and bottom bracket overhauled now).  The book  said that when
>overhauling the headset, replace caged bearings with loose ones
>so you get 2 more in there.  I'm wondering if it really is a good
>idea and if it really makes a difference.
From a resistance and wear-and-tear viewpoint I would say yes.  Increasing
the number if bearings in the headset will make turning the handlebars
easier (though probably not noticeably).  Also, increasing the number of
bearings will cut down on wear-and-tear inside the headset because of the
increased contact area between the bearings and the headset.  ie.  Increased
surface area = less pressure per unit contact area = less wear on the headset.
I think this alone would make it worthwhile-- parts would wear out less quickly
.  Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on this.
>
>Sean
>
-Sean Kelly
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: polly@leland.Stanford.EDU (polly siegel)
Subject: Re: Strange groupo discovered, seeking info...
Keywords: groupo, components
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 16:30:57 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.193058.542@doug.cae.wisc.edu> brianh@hprisc-29.cae.wisc.edu (Brian Huilman) writes:

>on the downtube.  This bike had a groupo I've never heard of:  "Zeus"  The
>bike had Zeus brakes, quick release skewars, cranks, chainrings (with 2mm dia.
>holes all around the circumfrence, just below the teeth.  obviously for weight,
>but still strange...), hubs, headset, derailures (sp?), EVERYTHING was made
>by Zeus!  Upon closer inspection, I found Zeus was manufactured in Spain.  Who
>ever owned the bike had smarts enough to have Mavic rims and Vittoria Kevlar
>clinchers so I'm assuming they know something of cycling.  The bike had a very
>European racing geometry.
>
>	My question:  does anybody know anything about Zeus components?

Zeus components, as you noted, were manufactured in Spain.  My recollection
is that they were designed as a campy knock-off and were pretty good quality.
My brother had some Zeus components on his bike in the mid-70's, but I haven't
seen anything by them in quite some time so I don't know if they're still
around.

- polly

--------
Polly Siegel
Stanford University
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mcgrant@rascals.stanford.edu (Michael C. Grant)
Subject: Re: Helmets - keeping a cool head
Organization: Information Systems Laboratory, Stanford University
Date: 28 Sep 92 18:54:50

In article <12800@cis.rand.org> Rodger_Madison@rand.ORG (Rodger Madison) writes:

   I suspect the reason the original post suggested a
   matte black helment was the this is a more
   efficient radiator of heat than white (a closer
   approximation to an ideal black body).

It seems absurd to suggest that the head eliminates anything more than
a negligible portion of its heat through radiation. We're not THAT hot.
Black-body radiation is simply not an issue.
(But I should be careful not to attribute that assertion to Mr. Madison
since he's paraphrasing the original post).

Of course, radiation does heat UP our heads, but the sun is quite a bit
better at that then our heads are.

Let's concentrate on convection and conduction (and physiological
responses) to explain how the wind, ambient air temperature, blood
vessels, and sweat glands cool us down. After all, these surely account
for all noticeable temperature changes in our body.

Mike
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Date: 2 Oct 92 02:16:49 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University

josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam) wrote:
 
> As for cog wear and shifting, my commuting/touring cogs are 
> almost a year old and have barely-noticeable wear after around 
> 7,000 miles.  Perhaps Shimano's 1-year guideline is aimed more 
> at selling freewheels than at smooth shifting?  

I seem to wear out a couple or three sprockets on a cassette each year on
my Mt Bike -- the two I must use the most and sometimes another.  I don't
run my chains beyond the 1% (1/8" 'stretch') limit.  Any decent shop should
be able to get replacement sprockets for you, if they don't have them in
stock.  Replacing sprockets in this way considerably extends the life of a
cassette (I would guess by a factor of 3 or 4 times.)

How do I tell they are worn?  A new chain will skip on a worn sprocket.

--
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+12
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com (Bob Geer)
Subject: Re: freewheel vices
Reply-To: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:34:03 GMT

ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House) writes:
>Our Workmate isn't strong enough as a vice to hold a freewheel vice firmly
>enough to resist the force needed to unscrew that cog.

All the SunTour 6-spd freewheels I used prior to this year I was able
to remove with the remover tool & a moderate-sized crescent wrench
(adjustable spanner), by holding it vertically against the floor &
throwing my strength & weight (270#) into it.  On some I didn't even
need to use the quick release skewer to hold the tool onto the
freewheel body.

My C-Record 8-spd freehub cog bolt comes right off with the remover
tool & a chain whip.

However, with two of those damned Sachs-Maillard Aris freewheels, I've
drug a really heavy bench vice that was mounted to a huge, very heavy,
but wheeled combination tool box & work bench across the floor.  They
seat much tighter than the SunTours.  Cheaper threading, maybe?

-- 
<> Bob `Bear' Geer | bgeer@beorn.sim.es.com                        |_______| <>
<>      lift-holic |  (this *often* works)        _O_    |___O___| | |_O_| | <>
<> Salt Lake City, | speaking only for myself, |_|_|_|_| | `'|`' |     |     <>
<>          Ootah  | one of my many tricks     |  / \  |    / \       / \    <>
From: dlp@zule.Eng.Sun.COM (Dan Pritchett - SunSoft Engineer)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Freewheel Woes
Date: 2 Oct 1992 17:42:02 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: zule

I am seeking advice on some problems I'm having with my freewheel. The
bike is a Ryan Vanguard long wheelbase recumbent. The bike has a
Suntour XC-Pro rear derailler and I'm using a Sedisport chain. The
freewheel is a 7-speed unit.

The first freewheel was an Suntour Alpha that lasted 1200 miles before
shifting became very rough. The freewheel and chain were replaced and
the shifting returned to normal. This new freewheel was also a Suntour
Alpha. Last night the freewheel began binding and had pretty much
seized by the time I got it to the shop. This freewheel has 1800 miles
on it.

The last time I replaced the freewheel, I discussed putting a better
model on the bike. I ride the bike 3,000+ miles/year and would rather
not replace freewheel and chain twice/year. The shop owner told me
that the durability of a freewheel is limited by the durability of the
sprockets and all Suntour freewheels use the same hardness sprockets.
The price difference is for the freewheel mechanism.

My questions are:

#1 - Is this assement of freewheels correct? Is the driving factor
on freewheel cost the internals and the gears are the same?

#2 - Is wearing out a freewheel every 1000-1500 miles considered
normal?

#3 - Should I look at a different vendor for my next freewheel, like
Sachs-Maillard or just move up the line in Suntour?

Please respond via email as I haven't had time to keep up with this
group lately.

Thanks in advance
Dan Pritchett

-- 
Thanks

Dan Pritchett               | ARPA/Internet: dlp@zule.Eng.Sun.COM
SunSoft Desktop Prod. Tools | GEnie: D.PRITCHET3
                            | Packet: KM6PR@N0ARY.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NA
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I may make you feel, but I can't make you think.
                 Ian Anderson
                   (from Thick as a Brick)
From: uphhsbt@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Suspension forks and front-end geometry
Date: 1 Oct 92 16:22:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: Msu.009616F3.80A417A0
Reply-To: uphhsbt@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University

In article <1992Sep30.192441.8979@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com>, caseb@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes:
>How significant is the effect of a suspension fork 
>on the front-end geometry of a bike that originally had a 
>rigid fork?  Is the steering noticeably slower? Which 
>brands have the least effect?
>
>Brian Case 
If you get Velo News, the last issue had a list (fairly comprehensive) of all
the major suspension forks.  Typically the "top end" forks like Rock Shox and 
Manitou's are the shortest and will affect the geometry of the bike the least.
How much it affects the geometry depends on the length of your rigid fork.
If you don't have or can't find Velo News, e-mail me and I can send you a 
summary of the article.

Brett Taylor
uphhsbt.hylite.oscs.montana.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle)
Subject: More noisy brakes
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:32:43 GMT

I have a Mongoose Alta, purchased this year.  Brakes were noisy from day 1.
Took it back to the shop, the mechanic told me that the original shoes were 
alittle hard so he put on softer shoes.  OK, I have no problem with that part.
The problem returned in about 3 weeks (only another 30 miles or so).  The bike
has a total of 150 miles on it.  Has been ridden on half street, half trails.
I ride it alittle hard, but don't feel I come anywhere near the abuse point.

Now the questions.  How can I quiet it down?  Do the original brakes (I think
they are performance) have a problem with quality?  Should I try a new and
better set of shoes?  Finally, when looking at the cantaliver brake, how is
a toe in adjustment made?  Thanks in advance.
							Dave

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: djconnel@leland.Stanford.EDU (Daniel Connelly)
Subject: Chain Stretch (Re: Waxing or Oiling or Discarding a chain?)
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 14:35:23 GMT

In article <5337@gold.gvg.tek.com> jimd@pequod.gvg.tek.com (Jim Delwiche) writes:

>The main point is that the chain is the cheapest piece of the
>drivetrain, and really should be considered a disposable item.  If you
>feel sensitive about the waste then by all means recycle it.  If you
>run a stretched chain, you will wear your chainrings and freewheel
>more rapidly, until they are also disposable.  It's kind of a no-win
>situation, until someone comes up with a shaft drive bike, with a real
>transmission.

Really, everything is disposable in the end; it is just a matter
of maximizing lifetime.  I just maintained that getting the most
out of a chain was worth a few minutes spent in a periodic cleaning.
Stretch is another issue, of course.


>
>P.S. I noticed a clever do-dad in one of the cycling rags recently.
>It's basically a bar with a hole in one end, and set of holes in the
>other end.  You hold it up to the chain (still on the bike) and place
>a rivet in the hole.  Now by examining which hole lines up with a
>rivet on the other end, you can estimate chain stretch.
>
>Probably costs a fortune.


The bike already has a built-in ruler for chain stretch -- the chain
rings.  With the taut chain around the big ring, just compare the
contact point at the top with the contact point at the bottom.  Given
the number of teeth in contact the net "phase shift" in contact point
yields the fractional chain stretch in a straightforward fashion.

Dan



-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shiba@riffnique.csd.sgi.com (Richard Shiba)
Subject: Re: Leverless quick-release
Organization:  Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 22:36:07 GMT

In <BvEGt6.93n@math.uwaterloo.ca> arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper) writes:

>Has any manufacturer ever produced leverless quick-release hubs?  I
>envision something into which you insert a separate lever, possibly
>even an appropriate sized hex-key, to activate the cam mechanism,
>removing it after the wheel is on the bike.  This might be useful for
>mountain bikes, and possibly for track bikes, although nuts and
>wrenches really do work quite well, and not much more slowly.

	There's a company that makes something like this they call
	Mudslingers.  It's basically a skewer (or seat binder)
	that has a little hex shaped stub that sticks out of the end
	the skewer, where the QR lever usually is.  Along with this  
	you get a little ratchet with a hex shaped hole at its head.  
	Obviously, to work this thing, you push the ratchet onto the 
	stub on the end of the axle or seat bolt, and loosen (or tighten).
	The ratchet is pretty cool here, is more convenient than a hex
	key would be.  The advantages (as claimed by the manufacturer)
	are lightweight (no lever) and theft resistance.  A neat little
	addition to this system is that they give you a few little
	'bits' that fit into the end of the ratchet.  I recall there
	were allen head bits and possibly screwdriver bits (not 
	positive about the screwdriver).  This converts the tool into
	a little ratcheting allen wrench (or screwdriver).  Kinda cool.
	They come in all kinds of anodized colors (the wrench matches too)
	and made of either CrMo or Ti.  The CrMo claims to be lighter
	than standard Ti skewers due to the lack of a lever...the set
	(wrench, f/r skeweres, seat binder, bits, CrMo version) is
	selling for about $110 here in N. Ca.      

		-rich

   

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: side by side tandem
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 01:27:41 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.090242.55631@qut.edu.au>
heard@qut.edu.au writes:
 
>In article <dangold1.717528039@vincent1.iastate.edu>, dangold1@iastate.edu
>(Daniel M Goldman) writes:
>> I am not an engineer, folks, but perhaps some of you will
>> comment.
>> You've read about side-by-sides before, but this might be
>> new.
>>
>>    I propose that two totally independent bicycles could be made
>> so that they can be linked together, with certain bracket or clamp
>> members built or desiged in.
>>
>
>Interesting idea, but may I make a comment which is not
>totally facetious: it wouldn't be a tandem.
>
Admittedly, such a bike would not satisfy Webster's definition of
"tandem bicycle" precisely because the riders are not "one after or
behind the other."
 
But, under "tandem (n)" Webster includes "a group of two or more
arranged one behind the other OR USED OR ACTING IN CONJUCTION."
So, even though the machine descibed above is not a tandem bicycle
(in fact, it wouldn't even qualify as a BIcycle), it would be a tandem.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: akkana@netcom.com (Akkana Peck)
Subject: Re: What's the theory behind Force 40 brakes?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 04:39:23 GMT

When I upgraded to my Cannondale, I was really looking forward to the
Force 40 brakes.  After a few months of living with them, I'm not that
convinced that they're an improvement -- they seem to create more
problems (like the cable housing dragging on the pulley, and the cable
junction piece catching in the tire tread) than they solve (standard
DX brakes work very well as is, IMHO, even for my weak hands).

However, anyone interested in Force 40 should know that Cannondale has a
new upgrade kit out to upgrade to the new Force 40-Plus system (which
uses a machined lever that's very difficult to describe -- go to a
Cannondale dealer and look at one of the new bikes -- but which seems to
work much better than the old brass pulleys).  The kit part number is
ACOMA (apparently because the machined levers are shaped like commas)
and costs $19.95 to do both ends of the bike (includes everything, but
you will have to cut your cable housings and spend some time adjusting).

I bought the ACOMA kit the day after I found out about it, and expect
that it will solve most of the problems with the old Force 40's (once I
manage to get it adjusted properly).

	...Akkana			akkana@netcom.com
From: jlacoss@isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Radial vs. crossed spoke lacing
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:40:44 GMT
Reply-To: jlacoss@paddington.isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Distribution: rec
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <GREG.92Sep25153347@organia.sce.carleton.ca> greg@organia.sce.carleton.ca (Greg Franks) writes:
>In article <PATRICK.92Sep25102854@casbs.Stanford.EDU> patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Goebel) writes:
>
>   From: patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Goebel)
>   (5) Which gives a more comfortable ride:  radial or crossed?
>
>5) the same.

 Ya gotta be kidding. Radial wheels have close to zero "give" and so
provide the harshest ride.

 I've had a radial front for 16 years. In the good old days, before
slick bikes were trendy, bike shop staff would always shudder when
they saw the thing. One guy called it a "bone crusher." 

 On the other hand, I wouldn't trade it - cross-spoked front wheels
feel mushy to me now.

	Jeff
From: alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Broken rear dropout
Date: 5 Oct 92 20:13:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: genghis.1992Oct5.201325.15477
Organization: Borland International
Originator: alexande@genghis.borland.com

In article <1992Oct5.173129.2765@genghis.borland.com> I wrote:
>The right rear dropout (Campy) on my 18-year old frame broke last week.

I have been informed by a frame builder that this can happen if you
let a broken rear axle go too long.  When my frame broke, I noticed
that the rear axle was also broken, but I had thought that the frame
breaking was the cause, not the effect.  I guess the moral is to
remove and check the wheels once a week.

Fortunately, the repair is fairly inexpensive (about 1/20 the price
of an equivalent new frame).
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chain Cleaners
Date: 1 Oct 92 23:03:26 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <00961563.16AED2E0@FHYDRA.FYSEL.UNIT.NO>,
dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no (Joern Yngve Dahl-Stamnes) wrote:
> 
> Thus spoke the keyboard of casseres@apple.com (David Casseres):
> >
> > [text deleted]
> >I've thought about a different approach: take the chain off, put it in a
> >sealed unbreakable container with (non-flammable) solvent, and stick the
> >container in the trunk of the family car.  Put another chain on the bike
> >while the one in the trunk gets clean from the vibrations and sloshes of
> >being driven around in the car.
> 
> What about finding a sealed unbreakable bottle that fits in the water
> bottle cage. Then you could put a new chain on your MTB and the the old
> on with you when out riding the worst trail you can find. Much better
> than riding a car just to clean your chain ;-)

Yes!  One friend already called me a motorhead for suggesting use of a car
to clean bike chains.  This is good.  In fact with most solvents you could
just use an old water bottle, and I bet you don't even have to have a
(shudder) MTB.  The vibration from riding ordinary pavement on skinny tires
ought to do it.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
From: fike@chezp.enet.dec.com (Mike Fike, Augusta, Maine)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Bianchi MTBs
Date: 2 Oct 92 21:13:09 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


> 
>If anyone owns a Bianchi MTB (especially the Peregrine), I'd love to
>hear some comments.  Also, if anyonw knows of Bianchi MTB dealer
>within a 100 miles of Boston, I'd like to hear about it.


	Try Gulliver's Bike Shop in Ellsworth Maine; Yeah, I know it's out of
the way, but they do stock them (along with OFFROAD, KHS, Fugi and a few
others) AND it's just a few miles from Bar Harbor- So you can pick up a bike
(or rent one if you can't find exactly what you want to buy) and go riding
in Acadia National Park on 50+ of the nicest groomed carriage trails (bikes,
hikers, and horses ONLY) with some truly scenic beauty. Make a weekend of it.
It's only 3 1/2 hours from Beantown.
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: side by side tandem
Date: 2 Oct 92 15:49:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: blue.6708
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <5343@gold.gvg.tek.com> brucer@gold.gvg.tek.com (Bruce Rayner) writes:
>
>Here's another variation I would love to build.  Space the bikes
>correctly, add some guide rollers, and this "side by side" would roll
>down any number of unused (hopefully) railroad tracks in the country.
>And what a smooth ride. Has anyone tried that? I'd be interested in 
>the details.
>
>I can see the warning stickers on such a contraption: 
>CAUTION: Avoid long tunnels and narrow one track bridges.
>Practice jumping off device at a moment's notice.  Beware of
>tracks that appear to be shiny and well used."
>
>BR
	I've heard of this before.  About 12 years ago (when I was 10) I used
to get a subscription to National Geographic's WORLD magazine.  There was an
article about a man who took those old, cruiser-type bicycles and adapted them
for railway travel.  They weren't tandems, but the idea is the same.
	He built telescoping outriggers that rode on the opposite rail, and
a small guide wheel set that consisted of 4 small polyurethane (I think) wheels
that folded out in front of the front wheel and directed it, providing for 
hands-free riding.  The clever thing about all of this was that everything
folded up against the bike and it could also be ridden normally.  It seems 
interesting from a "gadget" standpoint, but I think I would get bored riding
like that for any length of time.
	They did state in the magazine that his setup was only intended for use
on abandonded railways.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!                                     "A bonafide BIKAHOLIC, and DAMN
                                             proud of it!"    
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
--
From: TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Waxing or Oiling a chain?
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:15:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: SLACVM.92276.111529TOM
 <1992Sep27.124120.6479@leland.Stanford.EDU> <5337@gold.gvg.tek.com>
 <73006@apple.Apple.COM>
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

A good solution may be a enclosed chain, this way you can keep the chain
clean and lubed.  Life of the chain may be the life of the bike?