HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
Subject: Re: Another dryer venting question
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:47:03 GMT
Reply-To: ahill@boi.hp.com
Organization: LaserJets by Bill & Dave
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

packer@amarna.gsfc.nasa.gov (Charles Packer) writes:
> Is there any reason not to vent a dryer into the furnace flue,
> that is, the chimney?
>
Well, the risks associated with blowing lint into something with a large
open flame would be enough to turn me off to the idea.  Getting proper
airflow for the furnace would be more of a problem.  You'd also need a good
flapper valve to keep CO from the furnace from flowing back through the dryer
into your house.  I wouldn't be surprised if this is against code.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Attaching Stud Wall to Concrete
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 16:13:52 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.153208.14687@src.honeywell.com> hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk) writes:
>Note:  I've cut the cross-post to rec.woodworking, since it's tough to see
>how this is applicable.

True.

>I don't think we're talking about the same things here.  I think the things
>you're describing, George, are lead anchors (which for the most part are no
>longer made of lead).  

Nope. I'm talking about something that looks like a bolt with no head. It's
made of steel, is threaded on one end, and has a cone shaped taper cut in
the other end. There's a steel split collar wrapped around the cone which
is the same diameter as the rest of the shaft, but has two bumps formed in
it. The cone shaped end is driven into a hole in the concrete. When driving
in, the collar slides up into the narrow part of the cone and compresses
slightly, so the entire unit is the same diameter. Once you start tightening
the nut, the shaft begins to pull out of the hole, the collar stays put,
and the cone acts as a wedge to expand the collar and lock it in place.

We used large ones to bolt down braces for concrete forms. Unlike plastic
or lead screw anchors, they're extremely strong and resistant to shear
forces (which is why we used them for form braces). They're very usefull
in applications in which the item you're bolting down might have to be
removed for repair (for example, bolting machinery to a concrete floor).
I'm putting up a deck soon, and I intend to use these to bolt the stairway
footer down to my concrete slab. Home Depot sells them.

I mentioned them in my reply because that's what I'd use if I owned a
hammer drill and didn't own a powder activated nail driver. Since I have
one of the Remington stud guns, I'd use that in this case.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | He who is not a revolutionary at 16 has no heart.
                    | He who is a revolutionary at 60 has no head.
                    |                          Lord Chesterfield
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Oil-heat questions from new homeowner
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 92 19:23:00 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran) writes:
> [ ..... ]  The oval-shaped oil tank is in the
> basement, stands about 5' tall and is on short legs.  Anyone know how many
> gallons this thing holds?

One dimension doesn't tell much. Presuming it's a flat-sided oval, 
measure the height of the flat side, the length, the thickness, and
apply the following formula:

 ( 3.14 * thickness + flat_height * thickness ) * length / 244 

(all measurements in inches) and you'll have the approximate capacity
in gallons.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: More on Vynil Siding
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix, An Intergraph Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 17:53:27 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.155538.22672@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
|> In article <30SEP199217394941@watson.bms.com> ram@watson.bms.com (Gena Ram) writes:
|> 
|> >............................................  Where can I purchase 
|> >the material (I have never seen it for sale in a home improvement store)?
|> 
|> Home Depot sells it. The local branch doesn't stock much, so I assume you
|> would have to order the amount you'd need. They have several styles and
|> about seven colors available. They also stock a vinyl siding shingle that's
|> a dead ringer for the hard asbestos shingles commonly used in this area in
|> the 50s.

We got hit with a major hail storm here about 1.5 years ago.  The masonite
siding on my house took no damage.  A whole condo complex about a half mile
away had severe damage to the vinyl siding - it looked like someone had
just finished up with some war games.

Just something to consider.

I don't know of any aluminum sided houses around, but I would think that
stuff would dent up.

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Intergraph Corporation
Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537

There are three kinds of people in the world:
Those who can count, and those who can't.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Table Legs
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 15:41:33 GMT

A while back someone posted a request for suggestions for building a
laundry table. Among the suggestions were several recommendations for
putting legs on doors, countertop sections, plywood, etc. The pressing
question then became - where to get the legs.

Got the latest Woodworker's Supply catalogue yesterday. They sell the
tubular metal legs which fold up. The price for a pair is $19.80. The
shipping is another $4.55, and Wyoming, North Carolina, and New Mexico
residents must add tax.

The order line is 1-800-645-9292. Address -

  Woodworker's Supply, Inc.
  1108 North Glenn Road
  Casper, Wyoming 82601

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you take a dog which is starving and feed him
George Patterson -  | and make him prosperous, that dog will not bite
                    | you. This is the primary difference between a dog
                    | and a man.             Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Another dryer venting question
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 18:35:35 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

packer@amarna.gsfc.nasa.gov (Charles Packer) writes:

> Is there any reason not to vent a dryer into the furnace flue,
> that is, the chimney?

Yes:

  1) It's a code violation.
  2) It'll allow flue gasses to be blown into your dryer.
  3) It'll cause your furnace to rust *real* quick.
  4) It's a fire hazard.

Gary Heston, at home...
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: kamdar@granite.ma30.bull.com (Jayesh Kamdar)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Reception of my B&W TV !!
Date: 6 Oct 92 12:17:17 GMT
Organization: Bull HN Information Systems Inc.
Originator: kamdar@granite.ma30.bull.com


Hi Folks,

I need some suggestion about reception of my black and white TV.
I get really good reception on almost all VHF channels and very 
bad reception on all UHF channels !!! Should I change the UHF 
antenna ? Any other suggestions ? 

Please e-mail me your answer. Thanks for your help in advance.

Jayesh

-- 
=        In FORTRAN, God is REAL, unless defined as an INTEGER       =
= ------------------------------------------------------------------ =
= Jayesh Kamdar		      Bull World Wide Inforation System Inc. =
= J.Kamdar@ma30.bull.com      Ph. (508)294-2906   FAX: (508)294-3807 =
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Storing Firewood (Oak)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 23:02:32 GMT

In article <81190@ut-emx.uucp> rajiv@bongo.cc.utexas.edu (Rajiv Arora) writes:

>A friend told me the procedure was to build a sort of platform of wood planks
>(sorry for the nontechnical language--I can't tell a 2x4 from a 4x4!) on cinder
>blocks, stack the wood on the platform, and cover with transparent plastic
>(polythene?). Is this the correct procedure?

Well, that's a pretty good start. Termites live in the ground and can't stand
much daylight, so the cinder blocks help keep them out of your wood. The
problem is, they may build mud tunnels on the sides or inside the holes
of those cinder blocks. If you can lay your hands on some scrap metal and
cover the top of the blocks with that, that will do the trick.

You may want to use two pieces of pipe about 3" or 4" diameter instead of
wood planks. This might be cheaper.

Oh, one more thing. When you go to burn it, throw out any rotten pieces (you
won't get many with oak). They don't burn real well and sometimes carpenter
ants get in them.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Zero Defects": The result of shutting down a
                    |    production line.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Subject: Re: IN-LINE WATER HEATERS
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 19:13:30 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.171031.16708@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM> davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord) writes:
>In article <1992Sep28.152457.9048@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>>In article <horwath.717449276@geode11> horwath@rtsg.mot.com (George Horwath) writes:
>>>If inline heaters are soooooooo good, why aren't they used in commercial
>>>situations? In health clubs with many showers in the locker room, they
>>>just use a much larger tank than for a home.
>>
>
>Actually in-line water heaters have a really bad reputation in this
>country. Reliability has been a big problem (corosion and hard-water
>deposits) and alot more maintanance can be required. Also many people
>who've tried them complain that they don't maintain a steady temperature.
>
>While they've been used in Europe for many years, many
>people I know who've travelled through Europe say the state of plumbing
>there is appalling.

I've used in-line water heaters when showering abroad, and I wouldn't 
trade my tank for a truck load of the things.  Sure, you get unlimited
hot water -- as long as you only use a trickle of it.  Otherwise, you
get alternately boiled and frozen.  Not my idea of a good shower.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Square-D electrical panel
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 21:37:41 GMT

In article <BvID4J.6L7@world.std.com> edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) writes:

>I have been told that aluminum wire needs to be retightened every few years,
>otherwise oxide buildup can lead to bad connections and a fire hazard.
>Has this problem been eliminated with new hardware?

Although that was the case with small wire (such as that used for
convenience outlet circuits), I was told that this has never been true
of the large cables. One electrician I worked with in the early 70s used
aluminum for 2/0 or larger and copper for anything else. My latest info
is about 15 years old, though.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: timlee@public.btr.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Pool Maintenance
Date: 26 Sep 92 17:16:21 GMT
Reply-To: timlee@btr.com (Timothy J. Lee)
Distribution: usa

How much time and money does a backyard pool cost to maintain?
Please e-mail.  Thanks.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Timothy J. Lee                 timlee@btr.com  ...!decwrl!btr!timlee
This message comes with no warranty, not even an implied warranty of
fitness for any particular purpose.
From: tavares@danville (Jack Tavares)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas piping question
Date: 30 Sep 92 17:22:29 GMT
Reply-To: tavares@ctron.com

Russ Lown (russ@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM) wrote:
: >Hi,
: >
: >I want to install an extension of gas pipe to my new gas
: >clothes dryer, and was wondering where I could get some
: >do-it-yourself information on it.  A book or videotape would
: >be great.  None of the DIY books I looked into had it.  Maybe
: >it is not considered a DIY job?  It is just a few feet from
: >the 1" gas pipe to my appliance.
: >
: >Vallath Nandakumar
: 
: Me too, please.
: 
: 
: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
: ~ Russ Lown, Response Center Lab       |                                     ~
: ~ Hewlett-Packard  MS 37MA  /__  ___   |   "Between two evils,               ~
: ~ 100 Mayfield Ave.        /  / /__/   |       I always choose the one       ~
: ~ Mt. View, CA 94043 USA       /       |          I've never tried before."  ~
: ~ E-mail: russ@hpkslx.mayfield.hp.com  |                                     ~
: ~ Phone : (415) 691-3421               |                                     ~
: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In most places it is not a DIY job.
It needs to be inspected by a licensed plumber/gas line installer.
You can doit yourself, but not legally in most places.

If a location allows you to do it yourself,
then you must still get it inspected, and most
plumbers wont inspect DIT jobs


Jack Tavares	(603) 332-9400 x 1463 (603) 332-1019 (FAX)
Cabletron 	PO Box 5005 Rochester, NH 03867-0505
Disclaimer: Cabletron could care less!
From: foley@meteor.wisc.edu (Jonathan Foley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: siding options?
Date: 28 Sep 92 17:13:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: meteor.1992Sep28.171309.2653
Reply-To: foley@meteor.wisc.edu
Organization: Center for Climatic Research, Univ. Wisconsin

Hello!  My wife and I are living in a very old wooden house (it was built in
the 1870s).  Paint does not last very long on this beast.  It was painted every
8 years or so for the last 30 years without much luck.  Paint just seems to
peel right off the sucker.   We don't want to do this.  So, we are considering 
the options for various kinds of siding and such.  

We would like to know what we could do.  We aren't too keen on the idea of
just putting up the normal vinyl siding (or aluminum), but it seems to be
the most cost-effective means to cover the house.  However, would it be 
possible to just put new wooden clapboards up instead?  What about the
cost difference?  We are very new at this sort of thing, so please explain
what you mean.  By the way, the house is a three story.  In addition, there
are some areas of the house that are covered with 'scallops' rather than the
regular clapboards.  We would love to keep them (or something like it).

Any suggestions would be appreciated!  Email would be fine, or else post
your responses here - they may be of general interest.  Thanks!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Jon Foley                                    | email:  foley@meteor.wisc.edu |
Center for Climatic Research and              -------------------------------  
Department of Atmospheric & Oceanic Sciences                                 |
University of Wisconsin               ---------------------------------------
1225 West Dayton Street              | These views are my own and do reflect |
Madison, WI  53706 - United States   | those of the University of Wisconsin  |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: akarpowicz@mta.ca (Adam Karpowicz)
Subject: prehung doors
Reply-To: akarpowicz@mta.ca
Organization: Mount Allison U, Sackville, N.B. Canada 
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 15:48:48 GMT


Hello there,

I want to replace my entrance doors with pre-hung ones (mainly to avoid
all that business with hinges - I had bad experience with this).
Is it difficult?  How is it done? It is an old house, the opening may
be somewhat non-standard.
I prefer the looks of wooden doors - is there an advantage of using steel?
If I had wooden ones, I would rather not paint, only clear-coat. What is
the best exterior varnish?

Thanks in advance

Adam
From: exuclh@exu.ericsson.se (Calvin L. Hall, x 6521, s034)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Chipper/Shreader recommendations sought
Date: 25 Sep 92 19:55:58 GMT
Reply-To: exuclh@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson in North America.
              The opinions expressed are strictly those of the user and
              not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article 24048@viewlogic.com, mike@fuego.viewlogic.com (Mike Ethier) writes:
> 
> 
> 
> >Much of my cleanup will involve chipping of dead branches, so 
> >chipping performance is important. I find it interesting that units
> >are sold by yard size as if a 1/2 plot couldn't produce branches as 
> >big and tough to chip as 50 acres plots. Are 5 HP machines enough, or
> >are the 8 HP jobs worth the extra bucks?
> 
> 
>  I bought a Kemp Rancher 8 HP last year. So far, we have used it to clean up a
>  160ft by 250ft HEAVILY wooded area. I have put small trees (trunk) into it
>  about 3" in diameter and about 10 ft long, with no problem. I like to use it in
>  the fall when all the leaves are off the trees (here in Mass). When I bought it
>  I wasn't sure about which engine to get, the 5 HP or the 8 HP. I would 
>  definitely get the 8 HP now that I have one. Also, other types like Troy Built,
>  Sears, and such have only 2 wheels on them. This is bad since you have to 
>  pull this heavy 8 HP machine around. Try doing it on a less than smooth surface.
>  My kemp has four wheels and we use a small Sears tractor to tow it around.
>  Easy. As far as getting electic start, I'm glad I didn't. My machine starts in
>  1 or 2 pulls. When I bought it I got a cover for it (like $70 or $80). It fits
>  the machine well, and I figured $70 is worth covering a $2000 machine, since
>  I don't have a shelter for it. We have put probably between 50 and 100 hours on
>  it, nothing has failed on it, and all we have done is changed the oil and kept it
>  clean. Another plus is the large piles of wood chips I get which can be useful.
>  I would recommend the Kemp 8 HP with no-electic start. It costs more than others,
>  but it is well build, seems to be quite reliable, and will eat everything you 
>  feed it (within reason of course).
> 
>                                    -Mike
> 



Mike, I'm interested in a chipper/shredder. I have fourteen
large trees that I trim each winter. What type of cost 
justification did you go through in deciding to buy. Will
it ever pay for itself?

Thanks, Calvin
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kam@hpcvxkm.cv.hp.com (Keith Marchington)
Subject: Brrrr...Pellet stoves anyone?
Keywords: stoves, pellet
Reply-To: kam@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com
Organization: UTD-CV Corvallis, OR
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:36:34 GMT

Well, it's getting to be that time of year.  There's a nip in the air
and the furnace is going on in the morning.  Time to start thinking
about alternatives.  (Why is it we always wait until it's cold to
start thinking about these things?)

So my wife and I, who have had woodstoves in the past, but now have
just a cheesy zero clearance fireplace, are thinking PELLET STOVE.
But frankly, we don't know much at all about them.  So I turn to the
collective net.wisdom and solicit from you ideas, reviews, and
opinions about pellet stoves/inserts.  

Come forth with information, oh net.pellet_stove.gods.  Enlighten me
and other curious seekers of pellet stove knowledge an lore. :-)


Keith Marchington
email:	kam@cv.hp.com
From: cthorne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Charles E Thorne)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas piping question
Date: 29 Sep 92 19:08:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Ohio State University

In article <DRAND.92Sep29112532@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:
>In article <12625@sail.LABS.TEK.COM> vallath@vishnu.foo.tek.com (Vallath Nandakumar ) writes:

>   I want to install an extension of gas pipe to my new gas
>   clothes dryer, and was wondering where I could get some
>   do-it-yourself information on it.  A book or videotape would
>   be great.  None of the DIY books I looked into had it.  Maybe
>   it is not considered a DIY job?  It is just a few feet from
>   the 1" gas pipe to my appliance.

>IMO,  it's not a sensible DIY job.  Hire a plumber.  Remember that
>screwing up gas can lead to your house exploding.  Screwing up
>water is pretty benign as are most electrical mistakes.

That's generally true from a legal point as well.  Changing water lines
locally is not considered to be "plumbing", whereas changing sewer lines
or gas lines is and requires a licensed plumber.  Locally you can get a
home owner's permit to work on your own home and the plumbing inspector
will check to make sure you do it properly.

Charlie
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Safety in my home (was: Killing Burglars)
From: byron@homer.hsc.ucalgary.ca (Byron Draudson)
Date: 25 Sep 92 15:30:25 MDT
Reply-To: byron@yogi.hsc.ucalgary.ca
Distribution: world
Organization: Radiology, Foothills Hospital

In article <1992Sep18.180533.28603@adobe.com>, dauphin@adobe.com (Kimberly Dauphin) writes:
> Charles van Duren writes:
> 
> >I'm not sorry if I offended people here. When I think of my home, I
> >consider it to be the _last_ place where I need to be paranoid about
> >my physical safety. And I am _not_ deluding myself into thinking that
> >I am safe when I am not.
> 
> In April, my home was burglarized.  This, by itself, is not such
> a big deal, except for the following facts:
> 	1) I live in a nice neighborhood that's considered safe;
> 	2) We were home at the time;
> 	3) We were AWAKE in the next room at the time.
> 
> [deleted...]
> 
> Either Alberta is a paradise of safety, or you're living in a 
> dream.
> -- 
> _____________________________________________________
> 
> Kimberly Dauphin	  Adobe Systems Incorporated
> dauphin@mv.us.adobe.com	  Mountain View, CA

Well, Alberta is NOT a paradise of safety.  About a week ago, a
40 year old doctor/husband/father of four was fatally stabbed as
he struggled with a 21 year old burglar at 4 am in his mid-upper
class home near the university.  Makes you _really_ wonder just
how safe you are in your own home...

-- byron
________________________________________________________________________
Byron Draudson, Systems Manager               byron@yogi.hsc.ucalgary.ca
Radiology, Foothills Hospital, Calgary, Alberta, Canada   (403) 670-2442