HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Subject: Re: Wall o' Water, again
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:16:14 CST


      I'll just add my 2c worth.   I suspect the 
optimal method to advance your planting date would
be to heat the soil with clear plastic (Not the wall)
and then at planting time plant in warm soil with
the "wall" around the plant.   Clear plastic is more
effective at heating moist soil if it is a little
dirty so the plastic itself gets heated some by t he
sun thus reducing condensation and increasing the
amount of sun that hits the soil.  I have
the entire first 8" of my soil at 60-70F by
the first days of April using this method wheras
bare soil is in the low 50s.    I am going to
try "walls" for the first time this year.

I found clear plastic tents to be very effective at speeding
up peppers and eggplant.  I planted under the tents in
Mid April, about three weeks before I would plant outside.
They grew well, bloomed and set fruit by late May.  (So did
the crabgrass except for the setting fruit part).  Tomatoes
I grew this way grew larger but were floppy and weak and did not set
fruit until I took the covers off.  I suspect it got
too warm under there during our cool cloudy May and they
needed more light.   Outdoor planted plants set first last
year.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: larry@bradley.bradley.edu (L. D. Stratton)
Subject: Re: If you could only plant one thing
Organization: Bradley University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 21:05:33 GMT

In <1993Jan21.183939.7941@mcc.com> breland@cobweb.mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) writes:

>In article 1jmob5INN27u@CS.UTK.EDU, langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes:
>>a contributor asks an easy question:
>>>If you happened to live in a virtual-zone 4 place, with cruddy soil
>>>(but willing to amend it to some degree) with sunny and shady parts,
>>>what would you grow?
>  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>> Why...peppers of course!  ;)

>The question sounded to me like an inquiry of personal preference, not
>like a test with a right or wrong answer...I'm curious as to what other
>folks feel they absolutely can't live without, so how about it?

   Azaleas, azaleas and more azaleas.  Did I mention azaleas?

   Oh, and also azaleas.   (Ever get the feeling I should live in the
                            mid south?)

   A solid zone 5.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Bob Klebba <nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
     <1993Jan22.121150.10097@iscsvax.uni.edu> <C19yK8.z1@cup.hp.com>
     <C1B4o6.7yp@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 03:47:28 GMT

In article <psmith.727641803@cunews> Peter Smith,
psmith@alfred.carleton.ca writes:
>Someone posted a message about edible flowers sometime ago.
>Unfortunately, I didn't think I was interested at the time, but have
>since changed my mind.

I spice up my green salads in the summer with a bunch of different
flowers:
	anise hyssop
	hyssop
	borage
	monarda
	chives
	garlic chives
	mint
The anise hyssop adds the most flavor and blooms for a long time.

Bob Klebba
Madison, Wisconsin, USDA zone 4
Inet: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu
"Feed the soil, not the plant"
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: brandon@caldonia.nlm.nih.gov (Brandon Brylawski)
Subject: Need Info On Artificial Ponds
Organization: National Library of Medicine
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 17:38:44 GMT

Hello, can anyone answer some questions about menmade ponds? I am considering a plan
for my backyard that includes an 8' pond with a small waterfall. I would like if
possible to keep koi or another suitable fish. In this regard:

1. Should the pond be in sun or shade, and what differences will it make? I understand
that water plants do best in sun, and many fish like water plants. Any thoughts?

2. What fish do well in small manmade ponds? What maintenance do they require for
best health, and how often must they be fed?

3. Are there any special caveats to installation and maintenance the I should know 
about?

Thanks,
Brandon Brylawski
From: jewett@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Bob Jewett)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Guide to Scented Geraniums?
Date: 25 Jan 93 19:30:48 GMT
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA

> I'm looking for a guide to the identification of Scented Geraniums species
> and varieties.  Does anyone know of a guidebook along these lines?

From a previous posting:

> I just wanted to second the request for anyone who has
> it to share any information (books, nurseries, etc.)

Some info from 'The Complete Geranium (Cultivation, Cooking and Crafts)',
Susan Conder, Clarkson N. Potter Inc. publishers, distributed by Crown
Publishers, Inc., 1992, ISBN 0-517-58883-8, US$18 list price:

Scented-Leaved Geraniums:

   Rose scent
       P. 'Attar of Roses'
       P. capitatum
       P. graveolens (mint flavoured)
       'Grey Lady Plymouth'
       'Lady Plymouth'
       'Lady Scarborough'
       'Little Gem'
       'Queen of Roses'
       P. radens
       'Rober's Lemon Rose'

    Ginger scent
       'Torento'

    Lemon scent
       P. crispum major
       P. crispum minor
       P. crispum 'Variegatum'
       'Lemon Fancy'
       'Mabel Grey' (mint falvoured)
       'Pink Champagne'

    Lime scent
       P. x nervosum

    Apple scent
       P. odoratissimum

    Orange scent
       P. 'American Prince of Orange'
       P. 'Prince of Orange'

    Spicy scent
       P. fragile
       P. x fragrans
       P. x fragrans 'Variegatum'
	  ('Creamy Nutmeg', Snowy Nutmeg')
       'Lady Mary'
       P. trifolium

    Coconut scent
       P. grossularioides

    Mint scent
       'Joy Lucille'
       P. tomentosum (mint flavoured)

[The author points out that one plant may smell differently to different
noses.]

There is a list of five clubs and societies, including:

  International Geranium Society
  Mrs. Robin Schultz
  4610 Druid Street
  Los Angeles, CA, USA  90032

Among the fourteen nurseries listed are these in North America:

  Logee's Greenhouse, Danielson CT, 203-774-8038
  Fischer Geraniums, Homestead FL, 305-245-9464
  Shady Hill, Batavia IL, 708-879-5665
  Davidson-Wilson Greenhouses, Crawfordsville, IN, 317-364-0556
  Cook's Geranium Nursery, Lyons KA, 316-257-5033
  Oglevee, Ltd., Connellsville PA, 412-628-8360
  Colonial Florists, Ltd., St. Catherine's, Ontario L2MIM4, 416-934-3196

Bob Jewett
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Re: If you could only plant one thing this spr
Reply-To: clarke@acheron.UUCP
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 13:59:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.173147.7652@telerama.pgh.pa.us>, kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Kristen McQuillin) writes:
|> Not me, I'd plant thyme. I love the scent and use it in food, soap,
|> and other herbal things. If I could plant two things, the second would
|> be lavender.

Yes, but she's going to be busy from May on .... (baby's due).  I said to
plant a no-work cover crop that will improve her soil while she takes care
of her other crop 8-).  Essentially, plant alfalfa and hire someone to
till it under at the end of the season.  That'll add a lot of nitrogen and
organic stuff to the soil so she'll be able to plant other things next year
when the baby is bigger.

Inside container plants (thai peppers!) are another option.
From: jimm@salmon.hi.com (Jim McGrath)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Seeds of Change
Date: 21 Jan 1993 16:33:07 -0000
Organization: Hitachi Computer Products, OSSD division
NNTP-Posting-Host: salmon.hi.com

In article <15719@cis.rand.org> Rodger_Madison@rand.ORG (Rodger Madison) writes:
>Yesterday I received a seed catalog titled "Seeds of Change".  They sell heirloom
>and other seeds and in several philisophical articals in the catalog emphasize
>the wisdom of genetic diversity in the seed business.  Does anybody know anything
>about this outfit?  The address on the catalog is in Sante Fe. 
> 
>     Rodger


They had a booth at the New England Flower Show last year and I bought
several packets of seed from them.  The seeds germinated as they
should.  I noticed that they were selling seeds for P. Somniferum; the
only place I've seen them for sale in the US.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Organization: AT&T
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 03:10:30 GMT

Another edible flower:
artichoke

Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Color Combinations and Plants
Date: 21 Jan 93 23:51:55 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <1993Jan16.171638.12396@news.uiowa.edu> yeutter@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (Marguerite Yeutter) writes:
>I am going for a white and pastel pink, soft yellow, and light
>blue color scheme this year.

Here in North Oakland, alyssum self seeds like crazy, so it must
be easy. And I'm about to declare the 'Persian Jewels' Nigellas
a weed, too! How did they get into the cactus garden, eh?


I thought 'feverfew' was Chrysanthemum parthenium??? It also pops
up everywhere!

I've found ageratums easy to start from seed, never tried your
choice species though.

>
>What color combinations do you guys like in your yards and
>what plants do you use?  Do you take into account things
>like the "background color" of your house or whatever, or
>do you just plant what you like cuz you like it?  

Let's see: a purple-white-yellow bed; an orange-yellow-coral bed,
and one mostly pink.  I just put several red plants together
against a white shed, I hope it looks striking. And I do have one
small patch of purple + red (softened by some alyssum, but then
isn't everything around here?) Then, there's the all-mixed up beds!
Gertrude Jekyll might not plant red Cannas next to Coreopsis, but
they do cheer up a foggy August gloom.

Since a lot of the plants are perennials rather than annuals, I 
don't get switch color schemes yearly.

I know of one house, white with purple and blue trim, the front
yard full of purple + blue blooms. Pretty classy act.

>And do a lot of you grow from seed, or cruise the nurseries
>and KMart trusting them to have what you want?

I cruise, and buy on impulse! Then, later, I see the seeds in
a catalog, and it says "easy to grow from seed" and I wish I
weren't so impulsive! I did start a lot of things from seed, though,
when I first bought my house, I had to control my impulses much
more sharply then!

>Just wondering about what other gardeners do....
>
>Marguerite Yeutter
>yeutter@cs.uiowa.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Bob Klebba <nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Need Help on Peony Tree....
Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 03:50:54 GMT

In article <28135@sybase.sybase.com> Karen Paulsell, karenp@sybase.com
writes:
>A couple of branches of my plant have started to block the
>sidewalk, so if anyone has hints on propagating from cuttings, I'd
>love to know when and how.

Tree peony scions are grafted onto herbaceous peony roots.  I don't think
you can root the woody stems alone.

Bob Klebba
Madison, Wisconsin, USDA zone 4
Inet: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu
"Feed the soil, not the plant"
From: mcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Marc Gabriel)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: LymeNet subscriptions
Date: 25 Jan 93 22:06:42 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


   I submitted the following announcement a few days ago to this board.
Unfortunately, due to technical difficulties, some subscription requests
submitted on Sat. (1-23) and Sun. (1-24) were not processed.  If you
subscribed and did *not* receive confirmation of your subscription from the
list server, please re-subscribe.
   Sorry for the problems.
   The first issue of the LymeNet Newsletter will appear later this week.
   Here is the original announcement...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Introducing...

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Americans contracted this dangerous disease.  If left untreated, LD can cause
permanent nerve, musculoskeletal and cardiac damage.

Unfortunately, many in the medical and political arenas have not given this
epidemic much thought.  Self appointed experts in the academic community have
declared that LD can always be cured with short courses of simple antibiotics.
However, as the number of cases rise, doctors on the front lines are
discovering that LD is more serious that previously suspected, requiring longer
treatment therapies and more complex combinations of medicines.  The battle
lines have been drawn.

And the battles continue at LD conferences, and in the various State
legislatures where insurance companies, terrified at the high cost of LD, are
attempting to short change patients.  Estimates show that the average cost of
treatment for chronic LD patients ranges from $60,000 to $100,000 per patient.

MAILING LIST:
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INTERESTED INDIVIDUALS INCLUDE:
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Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: Looking for a Rose
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Distribution: ba
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 00:50:17 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.191542.2564@thirdi.uucp> diane@thirdi.UUCP (Diane Butler) writes:
>
>In article <1jmpbuINN9s4@morrow.stanford.edu> HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu
>(Sara MacGilvra) writes:
>...
>>Could anyone guide me as to where to find a hybrid (I think) rose
>>named Whisky Mac.
>
>I'd check Yamagami's on Saratoga-Sunnyvale Road in San Jose (or it might
>still be DeAnza Boulevard in Cupertino at that point).  They have a great
>rose selection.  If they don't have it, I'd check Wayside Gardens.  I'm
>almost positive Wayside carries it.

I think I saw some at Wegman's Nursery in Redwood City.  Give them and
Roger Reynolds (Menlo Park) a call--they have lots of roses now.
Wayside does have Whisky Mac.


-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Looking for Heliotropium seeds
Date: 25 Jan 93 14:02:10 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

IEE470@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Eric Beenfeldt) writes:

 >      Does anybody know what seed company sells Heliotropium arborescens
 >  seeds.

        J.L. HUDSON, SEEDSMAN                   [CAT - $1]
        P.O. Box 1058
        Redwood City, CA  94064
        U.S.A.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Giovanni Resta <resta@iei.pi.cnr.it>
Subject: Re: Lot's of Questions
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A789719FBD010377@mac-resta.iei.pi.cnr.it>
Organization: IEI-CNR Italy
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 09:25:23 GMT
X-Xxdate: Mon, 25 Jan 93 10:29:51 GMT
X-Posted-From: mac-resta.iei.pi.cnr.it
NNTP-Posting-Host: sol.ctr.columbia.edu

In article <1993Jan22.161728.1569@news.mentorg.com> Richard Reid,
rreid@rreid.mentorg.com writes:
>			Whats a Calerodendrum? Is it posionist? 

I may be wrong, but I think the genus Calerodendrum does not exist.
Can it be Calodendrum (Rutaceae) or Clerodendrum (Verbenaceae) ?

Giovanni
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,bionet.plants
From: nanders@plains.NoDak.edu (Noel Anderson)
Subject: Re: Seed germination for tropical plants
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:48:44 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

In article <1993Jan25.141952.1094@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> abl9y@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Andrew B. Lederman) writes:
>I recently acquired some tropical seeds (dwarf banana, bird of paradise,
>passion flower) and need some advice on how to get them started.  The problem 
>is that they require germination tempereatures between 80 - 90 degrees.
>
>How can I provide adequate temperatures and humidity etc. in my cold apartment?
>I figure I could make some sort of mini greenhouse with an aquarium, but I don't
>know the best way to keep the temperature up.

You can purchase heating pads from garden seed companies.  A cheaper alternative
is hog heating pads from farm suppliers, but that may not be an option in
your area.  I just payed $50 for two 36"*12" pads from Kane Manufacturing in
Des Moines, IA.  You also need a way to vary the temperature such as with
a dimmer switch for lights (another ~$15).

Many people just set seed trays on the pads.  This spring I plan to put my
trays in aluminum water pans which then sit on the mats.  I'm hoping for
better heat distribution and humidity with that scheme.



-- 
Noel W. Anderson                   nanders@plains.nodak.edu (Internet)
Asst Prof, Computer Engineering         "I speak for myself, not NDSU"
EE Dept, North Dakota State University         nanders@plains (BITNET)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gere@umunhum.stanford.edu (Susan Gere)
Subject: Re: Looking for a Rose
Summary: anyone for a late Pickering order?
Organization: DSO, Stanford University
Distribution: su
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 23:47:57 GMT

(Sara MacGilvra) inquires:
>>
>>Could anyone guide me as to where to find a hybrid (I think) rose
>>named Whisky Mac.

and rcooke@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU replies:
>
>This rose can be ordered from:  Pickering Nurseries, Inc.


...a very timely question, since there is one rose I must have from
Pickering, but they have a three-plant minimum, so...

=== does anyone wish to unite orders for shipping purposes? ===

I think plants are 8.50 plus 1.40 UPS and an extra $8 if order
is under 5 plants, or something to that effect.

(I guess the dollars are USD and they use the diff as exchange tax.)

R.S.V.P., if you are interested.


	P.S. I am advised that bare-root should really by in by the 
end of this month - though I intend to stubbornly maintain that the
weather is making a virtual earlier-season equivalent.
From: judy@nepac.ucsd.edu (jgaukel)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Help!  They've got me by the roots!
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:00:30 GMT
Organization: scripps inst. of oceanography
NNTP-Posting-Host: alfa.ucsd.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A78B0293B4081B32@alfa.ucsd.edu>
X-XXDate: Tue, 26 Jan 93 15:00:35 GMT


Ok folks,  I'm quite a beginner at this, but a year ago I planted a
wonderful herb
garden that was very useful... being a neophyte, I didn't put down any
"barriers" between
plants... well, I had to go away for 3 months, and nobody
looked after those herbs, and it is - well, just this side of disaster.

So I want to re-do the herb garden, and would like suggestions such as,
-  How the HECK do I get those old herbs out?  They are REALLY dug in,
not to mention
      all inter-grown to each other.  
-  What kind of dividers do you recommend?  Redwood?  Cedar?  How deep do
they have
     to go?
-  Any no-no's as far as one herb living next door to another?
-  Are herbs hard on the soil - do I need to do something once I start
with a clean
     slate again?
-  Is there any way to "save" and transplant parts of the existing tangle?

Thanks!  (heeeellllp!!!!)  I didn't know roots could BE that strong!!!
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: T3Q9 <T3Q9@UNB.CA>
Subject: Another question about seeds (and plants too).
Organization: The University of New Brunswick
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 06:13:13 GMT

Does anyone know if there would be any restrictions for moving seeds and
plants from Canada to the U.S.?  I may be moving South this Spring.
Thanks in advance.
- Adrian Lau.
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hippeastrum seeds
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:38:34 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <1j4fu5INN5rd@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bp816@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Krivis) writes:
>
>Does anyone know of a source for species Hippeastrum (or other
>amaryllids) seeds or bulblets? I want to enlarge my collection.
>
>Thanx

I was just looking up most of the 'bulb' entries in Barbara Barton's
"Gardening by Mail" (wonderful resource!) and found this:

Pine Heights Hursery
Pepper Street
Everton Hills, Australia 4053
(07) 353-2761
Donald and Marina Rix

Bulbs
An Australian source of spring- and summer-blooming bulbs: alliums,
crinums, gingers, haemanthus, hymenocallis, kaempferia, moraea,
sprekelia, velthemia, watsonia and many more. Also specialize in
species and hybrid hippeastrum (amaryllis), both bulbs and seeds.
Brief plant descriptions.

Catalog: $1 (US bills) OV bn/cn

(the abbreviations: OV ships overseas to US; bn/cn means listed
by botanical, then common name.)

There's no listing for Hippeastrum in the Plant Source Index,
but under Amaryllis:

Amaryllis, Inc, LA
Bio-Quest International, CA
The Daffodil Mart, VA
Peter De Jager Bulb Co, MA
Butch Gardens, NJ
Gladside Gardens, MA
Kell's Plant World, CA
Messelaar Bulb Co, MA
Quality Dutch Bulbs, NJ
Van Bourgondien Bros NY
Van Engelen, CT
From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne)
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Apple Trees
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:43:36 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.090842.4145@walter.cray.com> shelby@oxygen.cray.com (Shelby Anderson) writes:
>My BH and I inherited two apple trees when we moved into our house and
>have absolutely no idea how to take care of them. (Calling us "novice"
>gardeners is being polite!) The trees seem to be healthy and produced a lot
>of fruit last fall, but most of it was inedible due to some sort of 
>insect problem.
>
>Can anyone help us out? What should we do so we will be able to take full
>advantage of this wonderful resource? (We live in the Baltimore area, BTW.) 
>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
The #1 thing to do to apple trees is prune them so that sunlight can penetrate
to the interior and shaded sides of the tree.  If you look at commercial 
orchards you will see that all their apples are severely pruned on the sun-side
and some growers even use spreaders in the middle of the trees, forcing the
trees to grow into two separate halves.

As to bugs, sigh.  The only thing I've ever found that can even slow down
the bugs is Ortho Home Orchard Spray.  Of course, after you spray, the birds
will leave, which lets more bugs in, which means more spraying, etc.  I also
have young children who love to climb apple trees, and dogs who love to eat
the fallen apples, so I can never bring myself to use the stuff.  I've had
all sorts of advice on weird organic things that will supposedly keep the
bugs off, but my bugs laugh at 'em (and me).  

---Bill VanHorne