HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Friday, 31 Jul 1992 12:02:39 CDT
From: <U17868@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject:    what does a catalytic converter do ?

I have an audi 5000 s and I have problem with the catalytic converter. I want t
o know what exactly a catalytic converter do? I have some starting problem al
so. If I leave the switch on and start after few minutes it would start. But if
 I turn on the switch and start the car immediately it wouldn't start. Could th
is be because of catalytic converter. Also, I have to keep the fresh air on whi
le driving . If I turn the air off the car gets so overheated that the coolant
starts leaking from one of the hose. Can anybody tell me how much does catalyti
c converter cost for audi 5000 s . Is it possible to repair it.
Thanks

Sikander
u17868@uicvm.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Inline fuel filters
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 15:06:00 +0000


> I am going to replace the fuel filter on my Lotus soon.


Big enough to cope with the fuel flow.

Clear plastic body, so you can see any grot collected, and you can
see if the fuel is flowing.

Attached firmly to heat-resistant tubing, so it doesn't leak & catch
fire like the Escort I saw last week.


The big blue tin-can CAV filters are bulky overkill on a road car.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 16:05:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Altitude effects on ignition timing
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, wcr@unislc.uucp (William Rankin) writes:

>I seem to recall that on non-computer controlled (mid 70s) cars that
>the ignition timing should be adjusted for altitude. Anybody able to
>verify this and if so, what is the adjustment ( degrees + or - per 1000')
>The GM factory shop manuals don't say anything about altitude adjustments.
>Just so I dont misunderstand, advance is more deg before TDC and retard
>is less deg before TDC, true? The factory setting is 20 deg BTDC.
>Since this car is already equipped with high-altitude emissions, perhaps
>they already factored in an altitude advance into this number.
>Any comments welcome.

As I recall, the rule of thumb is 1 degree of added advance per 1000 feet
of altitude.  But since the car in question already has high-altitude
emissions, this is probably already factored in.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bench@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (daniel.benscher)
Subject: Used car recommendations sought
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 18:41:30 GMT
Keywords: used

Hi all- 

I am interested in buying a used car (86 or newer, not too many miles) 
for $3500 or less.  I was thinking of some of the imports (Sentra, 
Mazda 323, Corolla, Golf, etc).  It should basically be an "econo-box" 
with A/C, front wheel drive maybe, and 4 doors preferably.  

Any recommendations for reliable such models? Any to definitely avoid?
Thanks in advance.

Dan Benscher
bud@hotld.att.com
From: mdrayton@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Mike Drayton)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 20:52:55 GMT
Subject: Re: JC Whitney in Chicago ?
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) writes:

>I will be in Chicago sometime soon, and I think JC Whitney is located
>in Chicago.
>I am thinking of checking out their store, if they have one for
>walk in customers.  anybody knows their location in chicago ?
----------
They used to be located on Archer Ave., maybe 4 or 5 miles southwest
of downtown, not far from I-55 (the Stevenson Expressway).  J.C
Whitney is the same as Warshawsky, the Whitney name being easier for
Middle America to remember and pronounce, Warshawsky being more
natural for Chicagoans.  They used to publish catalogs under both names.

I recommend looking up both names in the phone book once you get to
Chi-town, and giving them a call to find out their current location
and whether they serve walk-in customers.  I have not been there for 
20 years.

Mike Drayton
mdrayton@sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: Autolite PowerSeal wires not recommended
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:28:08 GMT

In article <1992Jul27.152650.15354@kronos.arc.nasa.gov>, chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry) writes:

[most of the story about Autolite PowerSeal wires deleted]
> 
> But in the process of removing two of the plug wires, I tore two of
> the boots, one completely separating.  The wire inside the completely
> broken one had obvious signs of overheating at the termination.  It
> appears this wire had never made a good connection, and a year of use
> had caused the insulation and the boot to become brittle.  I suspect
> that the plastic used in the boots does not stand up well to high
> temperatures, and the temperatures behind a V-6 in the Taurus must get
> pretty fierce.  But that does not excuse bad terminations right out of
> the box.  So much for lifetime guarantees.

It may have been bad out of the box, but it may also have been bad
installation that damage the wire/terminal contact.

The brittle boot condition as you descibe it sounds more like arcing
related ozone induced deterioration.  Though heat certainly
contributes to the problem.

-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: basiji@milton.u.washington.edu (David Basiji)
Subject: Re: J B Weld?
Keywords: J B Weld
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 04:25:47 GMT


I cracked an oil filter housing on my SAAB while up in the Sierra.

Don't ask why.

I got some JB, tightened up the oil-cooler flare fittings to spread the 
crack open, applied JB like holy water and backed the flare nut out to 
close the crack.  I put a 100W light bulb on it so it would cure in
the 20 degree evening air and went to bed.  

I tightened the flare nut and drove the six hours home.  It stood up
beautifully, without dripping at all.  It worked so well that I didn't 
bother to buy a new fitting for several months.

Dave
-- 
David Basiji 
"C neophyte, Bioengineering Grad Student, Internet Personality"

email: basiji@u.washington.edu          
NeXTmail: basiji@larry.pathology.washington.edu

		"Whining is just anger coming out of a very small hole."
            --Stuart Smalley
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kolbjc@infonode.ingr.com (Chris Kolb)
Subject: 5th gear in SE Sentra
Keywords: sucks!!
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 11:52:15 GMT



I have a friend with a 92 Nissan Sentra SE with some transmission
trouble. He has taken it to the shop for the second time because
it keeps popping out of 5th gear. Anyone out there seen this in 
an other Sentra's?? He's about ready to get rid of it!

KOLB


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 09:16:29 GMT

behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna) writes:
: In article <1992Jul22.073213.4161@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
: >IMHO, the best way to clean the carbon off is to take a nice, long drive in
: >the country, preferably along winding, scenic roads.  After a few hundred
: >miles, you should notice the improvement.  I don't think injector cleaner
: >would do anything for you; I don't know of anything to pour in the tank that
: >will clean the carbon off.  It's either burn it away through driving, or
: >mechanically remove it.
: 
: 	You're forgetting the old "pour water in the intake" trick.  A small
: stream and go enough on the throttle to keep the engine running and you'll
: clean those cylinders right out.
: 
Chris,

Thanks!  I had never heard of this method, perhaps because I've always been a...
shall we say..."enthusiastic" driver, so I hadn't run into the problem
directly myself.  

Speaking of water injection, what would that do for me on a turbocharged,
intercooled car?  Does the H2O raise the effective compression, or cool
the incoming air (as the intercooler does), or what?  I'm getting 175hp
out of my car now (stock), would H2O injection be worth the effort?
(I know that SAAB sells them as an optional accessory, or at least used to).

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike Suter)
Subject: Re: Redline MTL
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:29:25 GMT


>I am thinking about putting Redline MTL (manual transmission lubricant) in the 
>gearbox of my 1985 Toyota MR2. 

I just added Redline's other transmission lubricant (MT-90) to my car.
It did smoothen the shifting, especially high-speed shifting, which is
one of the things I wanted to improve.

>Redline makes another gearlube which meets GL-5 and GL-6 specs and 
>the Redline literature would seem to indicate that this lube provides the best 
>protection and anti-wear characteristics.  The MTL meets GL-4 specs only a 
>seems formulated to help the synchronizers with "friction enhancers".  My 
>question is, would a friction enhancer also be a wear enhancer?  I know that 
>the synchros need some friction to work but what are the drawbacks of this 
>increased friction?  My owners manual recommends GL-4 or GL-5 spec gearlube, 
>what does GL-4, GL-5, and GL-6 mean?  Does GL-6 supercede GL-5 and GL-4 or 
>would a GL-6 lubricant not be recommended where GL-4 is required?

I just battled all of this a few weeks ago (when I added MT-90).
If I got the story straight, GL-6, etc, do NOT supercede GL-4.  GL-4
is (mainly) meant for manual transmissions.  GL-5 and 6 are made for
differentials.  The extra additives in GL-5 and 6 could corrode the
synchros in a manual transmission that is expecting GL-4.

To get the definative answer, call Redline, ask for their techie-
guy (I think his name is Ken), and give him your car make/model/year.

And, look in your owner's manual for the proper weight (so you can
choose between MTL and MT-90).

>So, aside 
>from helping the synchros, how good of a lubricant is MTL?

From my (limited thus far!) experience, I would say it is very good.

>Also, I have heard 
>very good thing about Mobil's synthetic gear lube.  Does anybody have 
>experience with it?  Does it smooth the shifts as well as MTL?

I have heard that Mobile's synthetic gear lube has some problems
with the synchros.  I have been told to stick with Redline if using
synthetic gear lube.  Its not something that has to be changed
often, so you might as well get the best, right?

Good luck

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
From: agrawal@lipari.usc.edu (Amitabh Agrawal)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Should I go to a mechanic?
Date: 26 Jul 1992 12:58:31 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: rec
NNTP-Posting-Host: lipari.usc.edu


Hi, 

My friend has a 91 Toyota Corolla which has developed this problem.
When the door is closed there is a rubber lining which helps in making
the seal. Once he accidently developed a crack (cut) in this lining.
This causes a problem in the sound insulation and therefore needs to
be fixed. I thought that just putting some tape on the lining might be
a better (more cost effective) soln than replacing the lining. What do
you guys think? What sort of tape should he use?

Thanks in advance

Amit Agrawal

PS: The cross section of the lining looks like the figure shown below
     
    <  > 
     \/

AA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Problems with a Mazda MX6
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 22:29:02 +0000


>         A friend's 1988 Mazda MX6-GT (58,000 miles) recnetly developed a
> highway speed shimmy.  When he took it to the dealer he was told that it
> needed a new CV joint (sorry, don't know which side) and a new steering
> rack.  Total cost, with labor, will be $1530.45 ($388.30 for CV joint and
> $1142.15 for steering rack).


Yet again, I'm staggered by the prices you guys in the US are charged
for simple repair work.

60K ?  I'm not surprised that either a CV joint or the steering rack
has problems. What I would *demand* to know from the dealer is
exactly what the fault on the rack is, why the price is so high, and
what the options for a reconditioned rack are.

Broadly speaking, there are 3 things that are likely to go wrong on a
steering rack; the end bearings failing, the pinion being out of
adjustment, and the rack bushes (that the rack slides in) being worn.
All of these are easily reconditioned, with a few pounds worth of
parts and some time. Destroying the rack needs severe accident
damage, or long term wear of the gear teeth, beyond the limits of
adjustment. After a mere 60K, this would have needed the rack to have
been lubricated with grinding paste ! This is *possible*, if a rack
gaiter has been split for a long time.

Over a thousand dollars for a steering rack is insane. What were
the quotes from other garages ? (You *did* get other quotes, didn't
you ?) I also hope you had tyres balanced & shock absorbers checked,
as soon as you noticed the shimmy.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Relay
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 15:06:00 +0000


> What's a fuel pump relay, and what exactly is its
> function?

I assume you have a car with a carburettor & an electric fuel pump.
The fuel pump takes a fair few amps of current, so it could burn the
contacts of a small switch if wired in directly. A relay is a little
box with a solenoid & a switch in it; run a small current through the
solenoid, the solenoid pulls the switch over, the switch controls a
much bigger current. Modern cars have loads of relays in them; horn,
headlamps, heated rear window, air conditioning and of course, the
fuel pump.

The ignition switch is capable of switching the load of a fuel pump,
and in the UK it usually does so without a relay. In the US however,
I understand you have a safety regulation which is intended to make
the fuel pump stop after a crash. The fuel pump power is controlled
by the engine oil pressure, so that if the engine is stopped by a
crash (and the oil is no longer being pumped), it also cuts the off
fuel pump. To pump fuel to start the car, before the engine is
turning over, there is also a connection to the starter switch.
Because the oil pressure switch can only handle a small current, a
relay is used.


Some fuel injected cars have extra pumps, and all sorts of other
weird stuff too. They may differ from this.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zm@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (Zafer Mehmood)
Subject: Re: miata conversion
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 21:56:19 GMT

Theres's a company called Mazdatrix that has put a rx7 engine in
an Miata. I am not sure if they used the Miata trans or the rx7 trans.
I read this in any article in Popular Mechanics (or was it Road & Track)
about 2 or 3 months ago. They gave quite a bit of the details involved
in modifying the engine bay to fit the larger engine together with their
impressions of the modified car's performance. Apparently, Mazdatrix
does these and other Mazda conversions for a living.

Zafer
From: crash@hal.com (Chris Craddock)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CAGS on corvette LT1
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:06:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HaL Computer Systems
NNTP-Posting-Host: sydney.hal.com

In article <1992Jul30.212708.17328@leland.Stanford.EDU>, tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
|> my friend just bought a corvette LT1.
|> he hates the CAGS and wonders if there's a way to disconnect it.
|> as it is right now, it's easier to just let the engine rev up until
|> the CAGS won't activate than to be forced into a 1-4 shift.
|> so, does anybody know about how to do this?  i'm sure somebody
|> has done this before.  yeah, i know, warranty.  never mind the
|> warranty.  how do you disconnect the CAGS?
|> -teddy

According to R&T, back when CAGS first appeared, there is a wire
which your friendly Chevy dealer will point out to you. Of course,
he would never touch the wire because it might alter the emmissions
performance of your new Chevrolet vehicle - but nuthin can stop you
from unplugging/cutting it yourself later.

:O)

Ah bureaucracy - doncha just love rules?
-- 
"That's the problem with nature, something's always stinging you
 or oozing mucous all over you. Let's go and watch TV"  - Calvin

crash@hal.com   		HaL Computer Systems Inc.
(408) 379-7000 x1163		1315 Dell Ave. Campbell CA 95008
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: grinding gears when revving engine at high speed
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 10:13:58 GMT

love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer) writes:
: In article <1992Jul29.102442.21229@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
: 
: I didn't get the model of Tom Reingolds car but I can say the following
: about SAAB:
: 
: The 900 (and its ancestor 99/90) is legendary here in Sweden for its
: weak gearbox (and especially the second gear). It's the first thing
: we check when we buy a used SAAB.
: Check the synch rings, and if they seem to be okay, get a new gearbox.
: 
: The 9000 appearantly have no such problems at all. 
: 
: (If you want to drive old swedish cars without any problems, buy something
: from the Volvo PV, Duett, Amazon, 14*, 16*, 24* or 26* series. They last 
: forever.)
: 
: Love Feuer
: love@lk.se 


Well, actually, the problem IS with a 9000.

The first 5-speed trannys did have a problem, especially with 2nd gear, but
that was corrected after a year or so.  (on the 99/900 line, that is).

I will concede some Volvos may last longer, but the SAAB is sure a hell
of a lot more fun to drive!  I think one of the reasons for Volvo's
longevity reputation is the fact that they are, GENERALLY SPEAKING, severly
underpowered.

Flame away!

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: carl@genie.slhs.udel.edu (Carl Devore)
Subject: Re: ++WHAT ARE BEST OILS FOR CAR/BIKE??++
Keywords: clogged oil filter
Organization: UDel, School of Life & Health Sciences
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 10:02:46 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.064326.3695@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>If the filter is clogged with crap, the oil bypasses it, and then, NO, you
>don't use a filter.
I thought that if the oil filter clogs, the oil stops flowing all together.  Is
this correct?

carl@genie.slhs.udel.edu   Newark, DE, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: 1975 Dodge Monico 400ci fouling plugs
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 21:02:42 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Take a look at the intake manifold. Does one side of the carb feed the center
4 cylinders and the other feed the outer 4? A dual-plane intake with a 4BBL
will divide them in some way and this is a possibility. If this is the case
then your excessive richness may due to a mixture error in one side of the
carb. Check the idle mixture screws. In many cases these are really adjusting
the amount of air allowed in at idle and if they are obstructed then you 
will have one side rich. The engine may still idle (rough) and run OK but
you will see the symptoms you describe - soot and fouling - especially if
you idle a lot.

 Some carb designs (like the Q-jet) appear to take idle air from outside.
The air is drawn from slots in the underside of the idle mixture screw
hole, past the spring and taper into the air passage. This small intake slot
is easy to get plugged up especially if your engine is covered with grime.
If things are very nasty then it's a good idea to remove as much crud by
hand as possible, picking it out from the underside of the carb base by hand.
You don't want to just go spraying carb cleaner at it if that might help more
crud migrate into the innards.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: cse@INEL.GOV (Chris Erwin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Shop Manual Advice: 88-Mercury Tracer
Date: 24 Jul 92 17:37:19 GMT
Organization: Idaho National Engineering Laboratory, Idaho Falls, Idaho

In article <5400.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
|> 
|> -> In the past I've bought the Ford Shop Manual for a Fiesta and I was
|> -> very disappointed.  The factory manual seemed to be just a list of
|> -> procedures ( if this is wrong do this ...) without any decent
|> -> explanation of the workings of the various systems of the car.
|> 
|>  Sounds entirely reasonable to me.  Ford Shop Manuals are written for
|> Ford dealer mechanics, who presumably know how things work.  Not that
|> they care; most of them get paid on commission, so they want to fix the
|> sucker as fast as they can and move on to the next one.  "How it works"
|> is extraneous information.
|>         

Not to overly plug any product, but I have become a great believer in
Haynes shop manuals.  They're British, which can make them a little hard
to follow if you're not big on the Queen's English (Would you please pass
the Sump Fixing Screws :-), but they're all based on a complete teardown
and rebuild, and are full of detailed diagrams and photographs, including
WIRING DIAGRAMS!!!!!  They do a reasonable job of describing the function
of each system, and have a very nice fault/diagnosis section in each chapter.

I have owned a Ford Fiesta and the Haynes manual for that car was superb. 
They are usually available at independent autoparts stores (not Checker/
Autoworks/Shucks) and import specialty parts shops in the U.S.  They're 
available for *most* makes and models this side of 1975, but don't get you're
hope up on mid 70's detroit clones (flame away).

They're worth it for the wiring diagrams alone, IMHO.

-Chris
========== long legal disclaimer follows, press n to skip ===========

Neither the United States Government or the Idaho National Engineering
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