HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bkottmann@falcon.aamrl.wpafb.af.mil (Brett Kottmann)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Anyone have a problem with Huntington Mort. and late fees?
Date: 11 Jan 93 13:41:06 EST
Organization: Logicon Technical Services, Inc.

	I recieved my mortgage payment back on the 7th of January, with a note
saying I had forgot to sign the check (which I had).

	The problem?

	I mailed it to Huntington on the 23rd of December.  I've noticed that
Huntington has been mailing their payment notices later and later in the month. 
We recieved November's notice 3 days before it was "due".  However, we had a
couple of extra envelopes from when we first started so we've always been able
to mail it in 7 days before it is due, to avoid such problems.

        Has anyone else had this kind of problem with Huntington?  It seems
they're trying to get late fees out of us.

        The unsigned check is our fault, no doubt about that.  However, they
should have notified me before the 1st of the month and definately before the
7th of January.  It wouldn't be such a concern if the other horror stories
about Huntington and slimy fee tactics hadn't been posted here :).

        Hopefully they'll sell our mortgage soon.
                                       
Brett
-- 
"The opinions and views expressed here are strictly my own and do not 
necessarily reflect the official position of either the U.S. Air Force 
or its contractors."
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,news.answers
From: house-archive@jester.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: misc.consumers.house FAQ (frequently asked questions)
Supersedes: <posting_724827605@dg-rtp.dg.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 12:48:49 GMT
Expires: 1 Feb 1993 12:48:39 GMT
Reply-To: house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation. RTP, NC.
Followup-To: poster

Archive-name: house-faq
Last-Modified: Wed Apr 22 10:30:32 EDT 1992

Welcome to misc.consumers.house.  Many of the questions that come up here,
quite possibly including yours, have been covered before.
A collection of discussions on various topics is available from the 
misc.consumers.house archive server.  To learn about the archive server, send
an empty piece of mail to:
	house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
(You should be able to just reply to this posting.)

If for some reason you have problems, send mail the address that you get by
substituting 'admin' for 'archive' in the above address.  (Why do I state
this in such an odd way, rather than just writing out the address?  I'm
tired of people carelessly sending mail to the wrong place!)
If you have to send mail to 'admin', be sure to include every conceivable
piece of information that I might need to reply to you, up to and including
a phone number where you will accept collect calls.  If the daemon can't
figure out how to get mail back to you, I probably won't be able to, either.

Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
From: sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com (Jim Sturges)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: HEPA Air Filtration Systems [?]
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:39:16 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Loral Defense Systems - Arizona

My wife's allergist recently recommended that we purchase HEPA
air filtration systems to reduce the sub-micrometer particles
which [Dr thinks] are causing her problems. He recommends a
system manufactured by NSA which uses a 3M Filtrete medium 
in addition to NSA's "proprietary" medium.

1. Any experts with comments?
2. Any users with comments?

Thanks.




 ************************************************************************

Jim Sturges                                       MS 8612
602 925-7204                                Loral Defense Systems --
Arizona
602 925-6988 Fax                         P.O. Box 85
sturges@master.lds-az.loral.com    1300 S. Litchfield Rd.
CIS: 72470,3117                             Goodyear-Avondale, AZ  85338
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gcm@fns-nc1.fns.com (Grover McCoury)
Subject: Re: CREDIT REPORTS:  They don't know the diff. between Jr. and Sr.?
Organization: Fujitsu Network Switching
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 21:23:45 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.143345.3219@ns.network.com> guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea) writes:
>This has happened to me before; 7 years ago when I applied for a mortgage on 
>the home we are in now...  The local place that handles our credit ratings in
>the Twin Cities of Minnesota does NOT make allowances for the difference 
>between a Jr. and Sr.!  I am fortunate that my dad (Sr.) has good credit since
>our stuff gets mixed together - on purpose!  I asked the mortgage co. that I am
>working with now to make sure my name on the credit application had "Jr." on the
>end and the person told me that it didn't make a difference because there isn't
>any spot for it?!  She put it on at my insistance but sure enough when I
>received my copy, all my past credit was mixed with my dad's.  we "both" have
>good credit but it is still a bit annoying.
>
>Has anyone had this problem in their state?  IS there a way to fix this???

This happens to me also. I am the III and I get credit info associated with my
dad(Jr.). Fortunately, he has good credit(;-}) and it is not a problem but I
presume I could get his entries removed from my report by writing the agency.
Anybody have any experience associated with this type of problem?

Enquiring minds want to know...

/**********************************************************************
  Grover C. McCoury III
  @ Fujitsu Network Switching Of America, Inc.
    4403 Bland Road
    Raleigh,    NC   27609
  audio:      919-790-3111
  electronic: gcm%fns-nc1.fns.com@fai
***********************************************************************/
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: buck@granite.ma30.bull.com (Ken Buck)
Subject: Re: CREDIT REPORTS: They don't know the diff. between Jr. and Sr.?
Organization: Bull HN Informations Systems Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date:  4 Jan 93 16:32:03 GMT

guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea) writes:

> The local place that handles our credit ratings in the Twin Cities of
> Minnesota does NOT make allowances for the difference between a Jr.
> and Sr.!
>Has anyone had this problem in their state?  IS there a way to fix this???

wait a minute!
what about different unrelated people with the _same names_ (regardless
of any Jr. and Sr. suffixes)?  do they assume there will only be one
"John Smith" in the whole state?!  something sounds a little strange here.
maybe you're just dealing with a *really* rinky-dink credit bureau?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.legal
From: whs70@dancer.cc.bellcore.com (sohl,william h)
Subject: Re: Zoning Question
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 14:53:27 GMT

In article <mr.726552682@ogre> mr@ogre.cica.indiana.edu (Michael Regoli) writes:
>I live in a subdivision that has about two dozen lots.  We're all
>zoned 'agriculture' (the land used to be a vineyard).
>
>I recieved a certified letter today from our realtor (who is the
>seller's agent for the subdivision) letting us know that he is
>requesting an amendment to the zoning maps to rezone from agriculture
>to residential the entire subdivision (supposedly to allow less
>stringent setback reqirements and to be consistent with the
>subdivision's covenants).
>
>Should we be concerned about this? He informed us of the hearing time,
>place, etc.  What would this mean for us?  We've already built and met
>every requirement of the covenants and restrictions...  I see this as
>somehow benefiting the owner of the subdivision (who has about 12-18
>more lots to sell) and certainly not us.

The change may will not affect your lot now, but the change may allow
you to construct any additions, out buildings, garage, shed, etc
closer to the property line than you are now allowed to do.  Check also
to see if the change in zoning decreases the minimum lot size.  If
that's the case, then you may find new homes in the neighborhood
are being built on smaller lots than yours, thus the density is
increased (instead of 12-18 lots, the owner may be able to create
more lots that the 12-18 he now has remaining)
and the character of the neighborhood may be significantly
different.

>Can our taxes increase due to a reclassification in zoning?  

That's not likely.

>(I'm not too aware of the zoning regulations, so excuse the ignorance.
>I do know that zoning is a key element in dictating what one can do
>with their property, but still, this whole thing has me suspicious.)

Most people find the entore area of zoning and building
requirements to be a vast unknown.  I'm reasonably familiar with 
much of it because I'm an elected official (councilman) in the
township of Mount Olive where I live.  All changes to zoning
is done by passing an ordinance change which must be approved by
the town council, so I've had several occasions to get iinvolved
with zoning in the past 5 years.

As to being suspicious, that's good.  If I where you, I'd go
talk to the township zoning officier and ask for a copy of
the entire proposed zoning change and have him/her explain
what the impacts might be.

Good luck,

Standard Disclaimer- Any opinions, etc. are mine and NOT my employer's.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Sohl (K2UNK) BELLCORE (Bell Communications Research, Inc.)
Morristown, NJ             email via UUCP      bcr!cc!whs70
201-829-2879 Weekdays      email via Internet  whs70@cc.bellcore.com
From: del@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (denise.e.long)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Security Systems: Do I need to wire windows on 2nd Floor?
Keywords: Security system, alarm systems, burgler alarms, home security
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:19:16 GMT
Organization: AT&T

When we built our house, we had the usual openings wired on the downstairs,
and the 2 windows on the upper floor that could be easily reached from
the porch roof.  We then had the company put a trap (basically a 
pressure sensitive mat) under the carpet on the stair landing so that
it would trip the alarm (when armed) if someone came in an upstairs window
and tried to come downtairs.

The only minor drawback is that you have to remember to bypass the
trap when you arm the system at night, to save the police from 
coming to your house because you went downstairs for a drink of 
water in the middle of the night!

Denise Long
AT&T Bell Laboratories
Columbus, OH
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: vonzelow@adobe.com (Jon von Zelowitz)
Subject: Re: Patching Ceiling Plaster Cracks
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 06:24:06 GMT

In article <jeffz-301292135153@tuolumne.cray.com> jeffz@cray.com (Jeff Zais) writes:
>
>I'm about to paint the parlor ceiling in my 100-year old Victorian. 
>There are some minor cracks in the lath and plaster that I'm going
>to patch before painting.  Any suggestions on how to proceed?
>[...]Some of the books I've read suggest enlarging a crack into a 
>dovetail shape so that they'll hold the patching compound better.  

You can patch (and keep patching), or you can sheetrock over it and
get no more cracks. If you haven't sheetrocked before, there's some
learning involved there too, and you may not want to make a
(presumably) high ceiling your first sheetrock project! Neither of
these alternatives is much fun; consider getting used to the cracks. :-)

If you patch, enlarge the crack until you reach the point where the
plaster is adhering decently. Clean up the edges with a utility knife.
Brush out the dust. Spray the area with water to help your Fixall
adhere. Dab in Fixall somewhat BELOW the level of the surface,
beveling the edges up toward the surface. Let that dry. Then mud over
it, and feather it like a sheetrock joint.

If you choose sheetrock (which I do now, having tried both
alternatives), use 1/4 inch. Locate and mark the joists. Have some
extra friends and ladders to help you lift the sheets. Some people
recommend a sheetrock 'jack' which lifts the sheets up for you. I will
unquestionably try to find one of these next time.

   Jon von Zelowitz   vonzelow@mv.us.adobe.com   ...uunet!adobe!vonzelow
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: Archer Gravely <gravely@unca.edu>
Subject: Re: bathroom fan summary
Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:01:05 GMT

My thinking is that brand name is not important in selecting a
bathroom fan.  What matters is noise level and power to remove
air.  There are two measurements for each of these usually
printed on the outside of the box.  "Sones" are a measure of
noise and I believe anything rated 2.2 or less is considered to be
quiet.   Many of the bathroom fans in stock at places like Lowes
have sone measurements of 3.5.  The second measure is CFM or
"Cubic Feet Per Minute" and this tells you if the fan is powerful
enough for the square footage of your bathroom.  There are quidelines as
to what CFM for a given amount of square feet but
I don't have them in my head.

One piece of advice is to shop at stores that specialize in light
fixtures as they typically have a wider selection of bathroom
fans than might be found at your typical home center.   

Archer Gravely
UNC Asheville
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: yue@merlin.dev.cdx.mot.com (Yue L. Chen)
Subject: Broken dishwasher
Originator: yue@scratchy.dev.cdx.mot.com
Keywords: dishwasher
Organization: Motorola Codex, Canton, MA
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:55:43 GMT


My dishwasher is broken -- the water doesn't come into the 
washing chamber when I turned it on, although I hear a lot of noise.  
I've looked in public libraries and bookstores for a repair handbook, 
but to no avail.

Could anyone point me to the right direction?
This might be interesting to other news readers, as I've seen
at least one similarly broken dishwasher in another household.

Thanks in advance!

Yue L. Chen
-- 

                        Yue L. Chen, x7468
From: alanj@endeavor18.tek.com (Alan Jeddeloh)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Renovating a 100 yr old home, what's involved?
Date: 11 Jan 93 21:40:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.

In article <51sI024Q31Je01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> rwc70@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Robert W Creasy) writes:
>Hello all,
>  I have questions for anyone who has renovated a home that is older than
>60 years of age.  My situation is as follows.  My wife and I are looking
>into purchasing a house that is approx 100 yrs old in the San Jose Ca area
>and are trying to determine what we may be getting ourselves into.
>...
>
>- What potential electrical problems might I face?  The existing system
>  has exposed cloth insulated wiring strung between porcelin posts.  How
>  many amps are these systems typically able to handle?  Because the house
>  has a full basement I would be able to rewire the house fairly easily if
>  necessary.

This is called "knob and tube" wiring.  The wires are #14 guage and are rated
for 15 amps, possibly 20 amps in some situations.  The key point about the
rating for 20 amps is that the wires are in free air, and thus can dissipate
more heat than 14 gauge cable.

Knob & tube is still legal per the NEC, for existing dwellings.  It may not
be used for new installations, but it does not have to be ripped out.  Assuming
the insulation is sound and there are no dangers that the wiring will be
damaged, it is safe.

Additions to a dwelling containing knob & tube wiring must be made according to
current code.

>...
>
>- Are windows that are stuck closed a real problem to get working again?
>  I know some windows would require replacement of the entire unit.  Some
>  may just need a new window frame built or lots of scraping/planing.

Double-hung windows (the kind that have two sashes that slide up and down)
can be renovated fairly easily, or, if the sashes are beyond repair (dry rot,
etc.) the sashes can be replaced without replacing the window frames and
disurbing the inside or outside walls.

--
    Alan Jeddeloh      W:(503) 685-2991  H:(503) 292-9740
    Tektronix, Inc.; D/S 60-850; PO Box 1000; Wilsonville, OR 97070
    Alan.Jeddeloh@tek.com 
    You can put the children to bed, but you can't make them sleep!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: faunt@netcom.Netcom.COM (Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604)
Subject: Re: Tying 2 Switches to Common Load?
Organization: at home, in Oakland
	<1993Jan5.230331.8188@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
	<1993Jan6.175650.24515@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM>
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:27:34 GMT

Two timers would do the right thing, in parallel.  I suggested that
he check with his local inspector.  If he still wants to put two
switches in parallel, and his inspector won't buy it, then he should
install it with three-way switches, then rewire in parallel after the
inspector leaves.  The installed wiring is the same, it's just a
matter of how it's hooked up.
I'm not familiar enough with the code to know if it's prohibited, or
not.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: CNTS12@email.mot.com (Mike Stevens)
Subject: Corn Stoves
Organization: Motorola CSE
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 11:30:49 GMT

I am in the market for a corn stove and have found two manufacturers as of 
this writing.

Dove Energy Products, Inc.

The Earth Stove Company

Has anyone had experience with either company and or with corn stoves in 
general.

I currently have a fireplace that I am considering installing a corn burning 
fireplace insert stove.

For folks who are unfamilar with corn stoves, they are a device which will 
allow you to burn dry shelled corn-(13-15% dry).  Where I live corn is 
cheap and readily available.


All information would be greatly appreciated.



Thanx,


Mike
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Mike Stevens                         | Internet: cnts12@email.comm.mot.com |
| Motorola Central Systems Engineering | Voice:    708-576-8249              |
| 1301 E. Algonquin Road-IL02 RM 0436  | FAX:      708-576-5640              |
| Schaumburg, Illinois  60196  USA     |                                     |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
    >> Disclaimer-Opinions expressed are those of the sender NOT MOTOROLA<<
From: augi@cbmvax.commodore.com (Joe Augenbraun)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Date: 9 Jan 93 13:10:31 GMT
Reply-To: augi@cbmvax.commodore.com (Joe Augenbraun)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1993Jan7.162000.8433@cs.wayne.edu> mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu writes:
> By
> continuously leveraging yourself into larger, more expensive houses every few years,
> you maintain a low real payment (since most of the payment is interest and therefore
> a tax deduction), you get the utility of the house to boot, and when you retire 
> you can cash in tax free. 

Oh, I wish it were so!

This worked great when houses were appreciating 10-15% a year, but in the
current climate where appreciation is not happening, trying to own a house
for just a few years can be quite expensive.  A house is far from a no-load
investment; buying and selling a house costs about 15% of the purchase price.
If a house appreciates by 10% a year, this is recovered in just two years.
If there is no appreciation, you can be waiting a long time for the tax
benefits to add up to this much money.

Demographics and expected interest rates suggest that at least for the next
few years houses in most parts of the country will not appreciate at 10-15%
per year.  That means that the afformentioned strategy will not be valid over
the next few years.

							Joe

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the sort of thing that people who like this sort of thing really like
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Joe "Augi" Augenbraun                   ucp: {uunet|ihnp4|rutgers}!cbmvax!augi
System Engineering                     	arpa: cbmvax!augi@uunet.uu.net
Commodore Business Machines		Phone: 215-431-9332 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bobpassl@boi.hp.com (Bob Passell)
Subject: Re: How to go low?
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:23:41 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I decided to go low and get it over with (I hope). Thanks
for all the advice. If you're moving to Boise and looking
for a bargain, let me know :-< 


Bp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: peterson@CS.ColoState.EDU (james peterson)
Subject: Re: When does it make sense to reduce the
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 19:44:46 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Colorado State University, Computer Science Department

In article <1993Jan6.191958.6899@cs.wayne.edu> mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu writes:
>
>Those who had low 4 and 5% mortgages they bought in the 50s
>and 60s profitied from the Carter era high inflation rates. 

A minor quibble.  Is this the result of a selective memory that forgot the
inflation of the Nixon/Ford era????? Have we forgotten wage and price
controls, and the WIN program?  But then again, what is 8 years compared to
4.......?



-- 
james lee peterson				peterson@CS.ColoState.edu
dept. of computer science                       
colorado state university		"Some ignorance is invincible."
ft. collins, colorado  (voice:303/491-7137; fax:303/491-6639)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: perley@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (Don Perley)
Subject: Re: BTU content of various fuels?
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Distribution: misc
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:32:02 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.165943.28947@sco.com> rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman) writes:
>
>I am trying to find out what the BTU and therm contents of a gallon of 
>natural gas and a gallon of liquid propane is.


Liquid propane has 93,000 btu/gallon.  I have never seen natural gas
sold by the gallon.  It has 100,000 BTU/therm (by definition), which is
also about 100 cubic feet.


-don perley


-- 
perley@balltown.cma.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: barrett@forge.gatech.edu (James Barrett)
Subject: Noise on phone line when using modem
Organization: Georgia Tech College of Computing
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:30:55 GMT

Ever since the cable guy came over and hooked up the cable (it
was already installed, he just hooked it up), I've been having
problems with line noise on my modem.  Any ideas why and what 
I should do about it?

Thanks
-------------------OS/2 v2.0 -- Why settle for anything less?-----------------
James C. Barrett (barrett@cc.gatech.edu)| Atlanta Braves - 1991 and 1992   
Georgia Tech College of Computing       |    World Outdoor Baseball Champs!!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house