HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Sriram Sankar)
Subject: How anti-lock brakes work (may start an interesting discussion)
Originator: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 18:35:31 GMT


I recently browsed through the discussion on wanting to disable anti-lock brakes, but
did not pay as much attention as I should have.  But then I got thinking about how
anti-lock brakes really work, and realized I have this whole bunch of questions.

I'll use my car as an example - a Saab.  Its got anti-lock brakes, I believe on all
four wheels.  Its got three hydraulic circuits - one for each front wheel and one for
the rear wheels.  The anti-lock brake algorithm gets input on the speed of each wheel
about 12 times per second and uses this information to determine if a wheel is skidding.
At some opportune moment (don't know exactly when), it decides to start pumping the
brakes on the wheel that is skidding.  Now suppose one of the rear wheels is skidding,
say I'd driving on an icy road and one rear wheel is on ice and I apply the brakes.  So
that wheel skids.  Suppose the computer decides to pump the brakes on that wheel.  How
does this affect the braking of the other rear wheel which is on the same hydraulic
circuit? (and possibly on asphalt, so far from skidding).

So now I have the following questions:

1. At what point does the brake pumping start?
2. Can the pumping be isolated to just one wheel and leave the braking effect on other
   wheels as is even if they are on the same hydraulic circuit?

Now lets go to another car, say an Accord EX, Civic EX, Integra GS, etc. that have anti-
lock brakes.  Some of these cars have drum brakes on the rear wheels, some have all four
disk brakes.

So questions:

3. Do drum brakes have the anti-lock feature?
4. Do cars differ in the number of wheels on which anti-lock is supported?

Suppose these cars have only two hydraulic circuits and the answer to question 2 above
is NO.  Suppose one hydraulic circuit controls the front right and the rear left wheels
while the other controls the front left and rear right wheels (like many cars do).
Which leads to a question:

5. How many hydraulic circuits do these mid-range cars have?

To continue, suppose one of these cars is driving on an icy road and its right wheels go
into the shoulder which is icy, and the brakes are applied.  Both the right wheels skid
and the other two wheels are still firmly gripped in asphalt.  What if the right wheel
brakes are pumped by the anti-locking feature?  This effectively causes all four wheel
brakes to be pumped (note I assumed answer to 2 was NO).  My guess is that this will
severely decrease the braking effect as compared to not pumping the brakes at all.

6. Do you believe this?

So in conclusion, I hope experts in this area start posting informative messages!

Sriram.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Help: 454 harmonic balancer
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:18:38 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Jeff Brown (jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com) wrote:
:    I have a 78 Suburban with a 454 engine that has it harmonic balancer 
:    all screwed up. Is the harmonic balancer two pieces with some kind of
:    rubber in between? Mine has the outer ring bouncing around on the inner,

Yes.  Pretty unusual to have the thing come apart.  

:    making lots of clanging sounds. I think i lost the rubber inbetween the
:    two. 
:    Is this difficult to replace? Lots of pullies need to come off and maybe 
:    the radiator. 

Depending on your access.  You will have to take off the pulley set on the
front of the balancer as a minimum, then remove the main bolt on the
balancer.  This is done using a breaker bar with the crank immobilized, Take
precautions on both removal and installation of your new one safety wise
to avoid injuring yourself should something slip or break.  Be sure to 
torque it correctly when you are done, they are deadly items should they
come off while the engine is running.  If memory serves me then the 
harmonic balancer is torqued to 330 ft-lbs or better.  Consult your
shop manual to be sure.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: wilkens%nmr@venus.ycc.yale.edu (Ken Wilkens)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Old cars, emissions, engine size and carb tuning...
Date: 18 Nov 92 12:59:07 GMT
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2

Well on the subject of fuel injection add on kits there is one being made
which is real nice by DFI ( Digitial Fuel Injection ) which is now a
division of Echlin. You get from them a computer (which can be programmed
for all sorts of parameters from a PC Laptop) and the wiring harness. You
go out and buy a TPI manifold and injectors and othe bits needed. (DFI
also has new castings of the intake if you want one) The system is nice
and I have seen it used on 300+ HP engines. If there is alot of interest
in this I will get the Mfg address and/or phone number and post it here.

Ken
From: troy@sequent.com (Troy Wecker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GEAR LUBE (WAS GL-4 QUESTION)
Date: 17 Nov 92 18:38:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Nov17.183823.22800
Distribution: na
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.



Finally I can answer a question instead of ask one :-).  Here is the
description for gear oils from  Automotive Engineering Magazine (SAE),
August 1985, p62.  There was also a chart showing the viscosity
comparison between SAE Viscosity and SAE "Gear" Viscosity.

SAE Viscosity   SAE "Gear" Viscosity
-------------   --------------------
 40-50              90
 30                 85
 20                 80
 10                 75

Note:  Values above are approx.  I didn't want to draw the scales.


                API Service Classifications
                ===========================

Classification          Type                    Typical Application
--------------          ----                    -------------------

     GL-1        Straight Mineral oil           Automotive manual
                                                transmissions

     GL-2        Usually contains fatty         Worm gear drives.
                 materials                      Industrial gear oils

     GL-3        Contain mild EP additives      Manual transmissions
                                                and spiral bevel
                                                final drives (GL-3 not
                                                widely used).

     GL-4        Equivalent to obsolete MIL-    Manual transmissions,
                 -L-2105 Specs.  Usually        spiral bevel and
                 satisfied by 50% GL-5          hypoid gears where
                 additive level.                moderate service
                                                prevails.

     GL-5        Equivalent to present MIL-     Used for Moderate and
                 -L-2105C specs. Primary        severe service in
                 field service recommendation   hypoid and all other
                 of most passenger car and      types of gears.  Also
                 truck builders worldwide.      may be used in manual
                                                transmissions.

     GL-6        Technically obsolete.          Typically recommended
                 Same as Ford M2C105A           in service conditions
                 (Still in use for Ford         where more antiscoring
                 light trucks)                  protection than
                                                provided by GL-5 lube
                                                is required.



Troy Wecker
troy@sequent.com
Sequent Computer Systems
Beaverton, OR
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Stalling problem.
Date: 16 Nov 92 13:49:58 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


    My wifes car has just started to have a problem. It has a GM 2.2 L
4 cylinder with throttle body F/I.
    What is happening is that the car sometimes stalls when you put
it into drive or reverse. It seems to happen even when the engine has
been warmed up for a few minutes. It is not just when the car has been
standing overnight. It happened when we were out at the stores after
only standing for an hour or so.
    The car starts fine and there seems to be no problem with driveability.
It feels like the cold idle speed may be a bit slow but I am not sure since
I don't have a tach.
    Does this TBI have a seperate injector for cold starts? Has anyone got 
any ideas? The problem is not bad yet but it sure is irritating.

                                Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Ken Wilkens <wilkens%nmr@venus.ycc.yale.edu>
Subject: Re: Sub-frame connectors
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 12:19:53 GMT

Alston Eng. located in uptate NY someplace has them along with full roll
cages and such. The subfram connectors are the same as a camaro so one
from either car would fit!

Ken
From: cwb@world.std.com (charlie w billings)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: BMW Prob
Keywords: BMW
Date: 17 Nov 92 21:43:11 GMT
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA


Has anyone had problems with the ZF 4 speed automatic transmission used in the 
BMW 735iL (89 model year) ?

The 735iL has an electronic shift control that can be set in one of three modes
"E","S", and "M". The default is "E". The "E" stands for economy, it allows the
car to shift into over-drive. When cursing between 55 and 70 at a low
(2100) rpm the car begins shifting between 4 and 3 in a 4-3-4 pattern producing
a vibration in read end (no pun intented). The other modes are fine. 

I had my mechanic drive the car and he said it might be a CV-Joint problem. He
claims that CV-Joint amplifies the shifting.

If anyone has any info please reply to kosma@opl.com
From: stecz@pencom.com (John Steczkowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Higher wattage headlight bulbs
Date: 20 Nov 92 15:31:47 GMT
Reply-To: stecz@pencom.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pencom Software


I found an ad in SportsCar magazine for brighter headlight bulbs for American  
style flush headlamps (not H4s).  They are something like 60 watt low beam and  
80 watt high beam.  To go with those, do I need to install relays?  or will a  
typical car's eletrical system handle the increased current draw?  Does anyone  
know of a place to get relays/plugs etc, to allow the relays to plug in between  
the existing headlight plug and bulb?

--
  John Steczkowski                        stecz@pencom.com
              Life without risk is Disneyland
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: More on anti-lock brakes
Date: 20 Nov 92 10:29:49
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
	<93669@rphroy.ph.gmr.com>
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: winnie-the-pooh.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com's message of 19 Nov 92 19:35:38 GMT

Yes, I realized all of your points.  I know that the brake isn't
simply released (bad choice of words) but pulsed.  I realize that
you'll get better traction than lock-up.  (I'm not THAT stupid,
honest!)

My point was that it could be better to pulse a wheel on the opposite
side too so that the side with traction doesn't have too much more
than the side with poor traction.  If the forces on the two sides are
too unbalanced, I'd think you could pull or even spin.
--

                                Lee Hetherington
                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: clift@ml.csiro.au (Steve Clift)
Subject: Bosch LE-2 Jetronic schematics?
Organization: CSIRO Marine Laboratories, Hobart
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 22:35:37 GMT


sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley) writes in <2030063@otter.hpl.hp.com>:

| clift@ml.csiro.au (Steve Clift) asks in <1992Nov16.012145.27581@ml.csiro.au>:
|
| > I have an LE-2 unit which has a fault.........Does anyone have, or know wher
e
| > I can get, a schematic for this thing Bosch are not exactly forthcoming -
|
| I had the same trouble trying to get a cct dig - I'm sorry to say I still
| don't have one.  However, the most useful book I found was
|
| _Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management_,
| Charles O. Probst, SAE
| Robert Bentley, Publishers
| ISBN 0-8376-0300-5
|
| which says everything the official Bosch books say that I've seen, plus a few
| useful comments.  I hope this helps you and others, please post if you find
| more.

Thanks - I'll try to unearth a copy.  I received, and replied to, email
from someone who offered to scan and mail me a schematic if he had one,
but no further response yet ....  (Waiting hopefully, John!)

| > When set up in a test rig which simulates the engine sensors, the thing
| > works fine - identical to a known good unit.
|
| Did I read this right?  Surely then it is a sensor/injector electrical
| fault.......

It's more subtle than that.  This unit runs OK in a test rig I made up
(a function generator to simulate the ignition pulses and three pots to
simulate the air sensor and thermistors), producing identical injector
timing to good unit.  Put it in a vehicle (*any* vehicle) and the
engine will fire but not run.  It's probably something simple (most of
the thing is evidently working correctly), but without a schematic to
work with, I haven't made much progress.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Clift				   Email: clift@ml.csiro.au
CSIRO Division of Oceanography		   Phone: +61-02-20-6243
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia		   Fax:   +61-02-24-0530
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: More on anti-lock brakes
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:42:34
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: winnie-the-pooh.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU's message of Tue, 17 Nov 1992 21:47:04 GMT

This may be stupid but that never stopped me...

Maybe 3 and 4 circuit ABS systems are not necessarily better.  Let's
say your front right tire starts slipping and ABS releases the brake
on it.  If ONLY that brake is released, wouldn't your car want to pull
to left?  If you also released the left rear, perhaps the pulling
would be minimized since each side of the car now has one brake
applied.  Just a thought.
--

                                Lee Hetherington
                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu
From: hxie@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Hong Liang Xie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: "Fasten Belts" light
Date: 23 Nov 92 17:31:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

The "Fasten Belts" light in my Cutlass Ciera
turns on sometimes even though all the (front)
safe belts are fasten.  A couple of times
it becomes on during local driving. 

Does anyone know if this indicates other problems
than safe belts? 

Thanks a lot.

-Hong
  

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: What's the scoop on putting mothballs in your tank?
Organization: (this space for rent)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 14:43:42 GMT

I know that this topic had floated around when there was some talk about
emmissions and stuff, and someone said that there are 3 kinds of mothballs,
but only one kind is the right kind to put in your tank.

What does it do to the gas?  Increase the octane rating?  On a whim I bought
a package of mothballs (each about .75" diam), and the active ingredient is
Naphthalene (99.75%) and perfume (.25%).  Are these the right kind?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Subaru question
From: ai257@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda L. McConnell)
Date: 15 Nov 1992 15:13:58 GMT
Reply-To: ai257@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda L. McConnell)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Hi -

Have an intermittent problem with my 1987 Subaru GL.  It has
103K on it and we've taken good care of it, with regular oil
changes, etc.  In the past couple of months, it's started
doing something odd, but only once in a while.  This usually
happens in the first ten minutes or so of driving.  The car
doesn't want to accelerate from a stop.  The engine doesn't
stumble or anything, it's like it's not accepting the gas
when I try to accelerate.  It has never stalled.  We had a
trusted mechanic friend come over and look at it.  He drove
it but of course it didn't duplicate for him.  He didn't
see anything obvious except that there was some dirt in
the distributor cap which he scraped out.  He suggested I
get a new cap, rotor, and a new fuel filter.  The fuel filter
was last replaced at 85K.  He's going to install the new parts
for me.  He also said that he can see that the timing's off a
little, but he doesn't have the equipment to set it; I'm going
to have to take it to the dealer.  Anyway, if these fixes don't
work, do any of you have any idea what to try next?

Thanks -

Linda
--
"A kindly tongue is the lodestone of the hearts of men."
                                  --Baha'u'llah
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jmr@nobska.er.usgs.gov (Jim Robb)
Subject: Fix rear-window defroster?
Organization: U.S.Geological Survey
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 15:14:31 GMT


	Anybody know how to fix a scratch across one
of the glued-on bands of a rear-window defroster?  Are there
known techniques or kits?  (I can speculate about a razor blade,
foil, and glue, and I'm curious if anybody's been successful at it.)

			Jim

--
    		Jim Robb 		jmr@nobska.er.usgs.gov	
		US Geological Survey 	(508) 457-2297
		Quissett Campus
		Woods Hole, MA 02543


--
    		Jim Robb 		jmr@nobska.er.usgs.gov	
		US Geological Survey 	(508) 457-2297
		Quissett Campus
		Woods Hole, MA 02543
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: rabbits@carson.u.washington.edu (Adolf Maas)
Subject: Re: remove inside rear-view mirror - HOW?
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:22:27 GMT

>>>How do I remove the old mirror without breaking the windshield?  Is
>>>there something that will dissolve the old epoxy but not the glass?
>
>>super glue remover, maybe..dunno..never tried it..just thought i'd offer.
>>or maybe fingernail polish remover..never tried that either...
>>-- 
>Here's my ill-informed but likely useful advice:
>
>	Try chromic acid.  A solution of potassium dichromate in
>18M sulfuric acid (which yields chromic acid) works wonders for
>removing organic materials from glass.  There's just one major
>drawback: this about as serious as oxidizing acids get.

I don't have a clue what to use, But I would not use chromic acid.  Way
too nasty, way too toxic.  It'll eat through almost any gloves except
nitrile (and maybe them, too).  Frankly, I'd call Novus or a comparable
auto glass repair house and ask them- they do it all the time.  Although I
think MEK or superglue remover might work- I don't think that kind of glue
is an epoxy.

Good luck, and let us know what works-
				Rabbits
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CFV: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 17 Nov 92 10:11:44 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

This is a Call For Votes (CFV) on creation of the unmoderated newsgroup
rec.crafts.metalworking.  The charter is reproduced below.

To vote FOR the creation of this new newsgroup, send mail to
metalyes@corral.uwyo.edu.  To vote AGAINST the creation of this group,
send mail to metalno@corral.uwyo.edu.  Please send votes *only* to one
of these two addresses, otherwise it will not count.  Do not post your
vote, or send it to my personal mailbox.  The content of the e-mail
ballot is not important, just the address it is sent to.

The voting period will last until 23:59:59 MST, 14-DEC-1992.  Votes
*received* after that date cannot be counted.

Charter
-------

Proposed Charter -- REC.CRAFTS.METALWORKING

The USENET newsgroup, rec.crafts.metalworking, is a newsgroup which discusses
various aspects of working with metal, such as (but not limited to):

  machining, as on a lathe, milling machine, grinder, etc.;
  numerical control of such machines;
  welding, whether by gas, arc, mig, tig, thermite, or other methods;
  Metal joining, whether welding, brazing, soldering, riveting,
    screwing, folding, etc.  (this section was added during the discussion)
  casting various metals by various methods;
  hardening/tempering various metals;
  blacksmithing/forging;
  spinning and hammer work;
  sheet metal work;
  jewelry-making;
  purchasing and/or reconditioning metalworking tools and machinery;
  interesting projects;
  books on metal technologies and history;

Example areas of interest:

  knife/sword making;
  automotive repair;
  steam engine (model/scale, though full-sized discussions are welcome!);
  art work, such as bronze castings and sculptures;
  gunsmithing;
  toolmaking, such as for woodworking, further metalworking, etc.;

While the bulk of the discussion will probably be directed towards
small-scale "home" shops, industrial/production discussions are also
quite welcome.
-- 
Jim Kirkpatrick
jimkirk@corral.uwyo.edu
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: *** WHERE AM I ****
Date: 23 Nov 92 22:15:16 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.



Is this the right newsgroup for conversions?  I just bought a Pontiac 
Sunbird (not a firebird) with a Chevy short 400, Edelbroch carb & intake, 
and am looking for other possible "enhancements".

Also if there are persons familiar with the 350 Turbo xmisson (I'm pretty 
sure it's not a 400, there is scant room anyway)...

Lastly, what is some good reading material on customizing/rebuilding the 
electronics.  This car was really stripped when the conversion was done: no 
heat, no horn, no wipers, no coil-jump on start.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 PEROT IN '96!

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    exuptr@ZGNews.Lonestar.Org  <SLOW!>
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 06:47:19 GMT
Subject: Mech ABS retrofit (ABS-TRAX)
Organization: HP Singapore