HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: apj@beldin.sun.ac.za (Andries Dippenaar)
Subject: Re: 16V golf gti mk3 gets bashed by CAR
Organization: University of Stellenbosch
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 08:04:47 GMT

Tom Haapanen (tomh@wes.on.ca) wrote:
: Or maybe VWoA will come to their senses and bring in a full model selection.
: In Canada we will have:
: 
: 	Golf CL		2dr, 4dr	1.8 gas, 1.9 turbodiesel
: 	Golf GL		2dr, 4dr	2.0 gas, 1.9 turbodiesel
: 	Golf GTI	2dr		2.0 gas
: 	Golf VR6	2dr		2.8 gas

Here in South Africa we have the following range:
        Golf GS   1.6
        Golf GSX  1.8
        Golf GSX  1.8 (3spd automatic)
        Golf GTS  1.8
        Golf GTi  2.0 8v
and coming in April '93, the Golf GTi VR6.

Andries
***********************************************************************
*       /|~~\ * APJ Dippenaar        * "If you wanna make the world a *
*     /__|__/ * apj@beldin.sun.ac.za *  better place, take a look at  *
*   /    |    * Univ of Stellenbosch *  yourself and make a change."  *
* /   \__|    * South Africa         *             -- Michael Jackson *
***********************************************************************
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: * Tranny grind turned to  broken GTi*
Date: 15 Nov 1992 18:37:11 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo) says:

>
>   HELP HELP HELP. I have a 90 GTi with 38k and it's broke. I wrote earlier
>about grinding in the tranny 1-2 shift. Well, to day something went
>drasticlly wrong.
>
>      MY GTI IS DEAD. Earlier, I had the pinion pop off and grind up the
>tranny. No problem, VW gave me a new 1st,2nd gears plus synchro and
>hardware free. 
>
>     Didn't stop grinding so I called the VWOA number and they suggested it
>might be normal. I thought it was normal based on what everyone on the
>board has told me. So, I just didn't pay it much attention. I even put the
>redline fluid on order.
>
>    Then, this morning I get a call from my brother ( I loaned him my car).
> The car has quit. Second gear will not engage. The car shutters on
>acceleration in all gears and all gears with grinding noises. The grinding
>noise is less pronounce in the lower gears( 1st quitest-5th loudest) The
>clutch engages but makes a tumping noise .  plus the idle lumpy.
>       Sounds like the clutch is a goner or at least a bearing or something
>       I was thinking it could be the tranny but am not sure.
>
>       I need some help on this and fast
>
>James Mielo

take it back to VW, bitch, bitch, bithc more! tell them that you called
and that you were told that the noize was normal..even if the thing is
no longer under the warrentee(you didn't say what kind the new stuff
came with), but you DID DO SOMETHING while it was still under warantee,
they may do something about it..they did for me....then they tried to 
charge me for a clutch, after the one that got burned up was BRAND NEW!!
mind you, we wrote the dealer a nice, neat letter, telling them that
they could take a camshaft and shove it up their ....well..or VWoA was gonna
refund the cash we paid for the clutch change when it was THEIR fault it
was gone..we promptly were refunded 200 of the 300 bucks...so..it wasn't 
perfect..but bitching, even though the car was no longer under warantee,
did get the job done..they changed the bad seal on their rebuilt tranny
for free, and changed the oil soaked clutch (also their fault do to the
missing seal on the tranny!) for 100bucks...coulda been better, but woulda
been much worse if i'd tried to screw with it myself..woulda cost about
as much after chasing parts and down time, not to mention lack of 
facilities!..well...that is my suggestion, good luck with it!
DREW
-- 
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??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntax
Date: 16 Nov 1992 22:38:34 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, jpau@oracle.com (Jeffrey Pau) says:

>How often should I change oil if Syntax is used?
>Suggestions are appriciated!
>

around every 3k miles, no longer than 5k.
(info spouted by some other poster somewhere, and, i think, a good
insurance policy!..but up to you..this is my suggestion that you asked
for...others may have other recommendations, and good reasons for them..
but, the arguement there was that the viscosity breakdown was not a 
problem, but, as with any oil, the detergents will collect grungies,
and so you still need to change the oil every 3-5k to get rid of these
crudolies, even though the oil may be good for 100k, it will still get
contaminated.)
good luck
DREW
-- 
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?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK)
Subject: Re: Help! Put oil in a Bug, and it disappears!
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
Date: 20 Nov 1992 19:16 MST  

In article <1ejqfaINN7lu@agate.berkeley.edu>, map@violet.berkeley.edu (Pollen Lab;103 ESB;38108;;NZ29) writes...
{In article <20NOV199213163645@cc.utah.edu> mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK) writes:
{>In article <1992Nov20.170103.11314@nntp.nta.no>, BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes...
{ 
{>{I've been putting a *lot* of oil into it recently, like a quart every fill up!
{>{Yet it only smokes a little only when it starts up, and it isn't leaking.
{>{ 
{>{Where could the oil be going? The front seal was just replaced, and I've heard
{>{that oil can leak into the clutch housing...
{>
{>I had that happen to me a couple of years ago in '71 Super Beetle.  One sure 
{>way to tell if the oil is going into the clutch housing is if the clutch is 
{>slipping at high rpm's going up a hill.
{ 
{That's happening to my '69 Bug right now, which is one reason why I'm not
{driving up to the Sierra to enjoy the snow this weekend.  But I'd like to
{raise one small issue: the oil's *got* to get out sooner or later!!  Once
{oil sprays all over the clutch, it should drip out at the front of the engine.
{     (... the other reason I'm not driving the car right now--embarassing
{pools of oil wherever I park...:-)
{ 
{Eric Edlund
{U.C.Berkeley Geography
{eric@pollen1.berkeley.edu
  Your point is valid, but the way that I found out that I had the problem was 
not only the slipping clutch, but the fact that oil was leaking from the wrong 
areas, namely the front of the engine, not the rear where it normally would.  
Also you have to figure that it takes a lot of oil to fill up the clutch 
housing and flood the clutch and then come out of the housing in sufficient 
quantities that one would notice it leaking.  One would notice the engine using 
immense amounts of oil.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Michael Beck                    \        Sex is a three-letter word that 
 Michael.Beck@M.CC.UTAH.EDU        \    needs some old fashioned four letter
 MGB5528@CC.UTAH.EDU                 \  words to fully express its meaning.
 University of Utah                    \
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: 01ksdavis@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu (Rebel without a clue.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Eurovan pricing, other info?
Date: 23 Nov 92 03:44:45 GMT
Organization: The Corporation.


	Does anybody out there know what VW are going to charge for their new
minivans?  My parents are interested in buying one.

	Also, what would be involved with importing a new Minivan Westphalia
from Europe (I understand that the camper minivans are not going to be sold in
the USA for some reason-is VW trying to alienate the deadhead crowd?)

	Any info greatly appreciated.

-- 

 ______________________________________________________________________________
|Kyle S. Davis
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Date: 16 Nov 1992 22:02:14 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) says:

>Running the fan all the time would lengthen the time it takes
>for your engine to reach normal operating temperature - during
>this time your performance will suffer and you'll pollute more.

ok boyz and girlz..not to argue either view point, as i find this
to be fairly informative, and i have my opinions, but no specific
reazonz for what i do..so..i want a question answered...see..i
would argue (if i were arguing) that what brother miller has said
above is not true, as this is what the thermostat controlls...
if the water is being coooled too much by a constanty running fan,
the thermostat does not open as much....this is why trucks, and 
various other vehicles of even today that have the fan attached
directly to the crank manage to still warm up,etc...like i said,
though, i am not sure that this is how a thermostat works...can
anyone help me here?(sorry A. Miller, but i just have to ask this
but do not wish to dispute what you have said, so please, not to
take this as a personal flame!)
thanx one and all!
DREW
[rest of it deleted]
-- 
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?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@jec325.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:02:30 GMT

In article <1e96t4INN7kq@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>
>In a previous article, squiec@jec321.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) says:
>
>>In article <1e4te6INN58m@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>>
>>>In a previous article, ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Edward Reddy  MI) says:
>>>
>>>>Experiences? Well, let me begin. First to go on my 85 JettaGL was a
>>>
>>>>summer. Then 2 solid lifters had to be replaced. The timing belt
>>>                ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~HUH???..didn't they go hydraulic in 85???
>>>
>>>>this spring. She needs 4 more solid lifters, Flywheel, and someone to
>>>                          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>>again..i thought they went hydraulic..or are you saying that the once
>>>hyds are now solid?..just curious..
>>>
>>>>Sound pesimistic? Nope. I love my car. It handles like a dream. Smooth
>>>whew!!..had me worried!
>>>
>>>DREW
>>>-- 
>>>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>>>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>>>?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
>>  Once again the Drew-Meister is right. After 84' All the lifters are hyd.       on Jettas and Golfs.(Not sure about Scir's or Cabs) you can tell this
>>  by the engine code and Bentley manual(also buy oil pump pressure but
>>  that's another story)
>>  Hizzah Hizzah Drew.
>>  PLEASE ATTEMPT TO BE ACCURATE WHEN EXPLAINING THINGS< OTHERWISE YOU
>>  SOUND LIKE A GENERAL MOTORS MECHANIC( Zing!!!! ).
>> -Craig
>is that last bit(in caps) meant for me? tell me what was unclear, and i
>will try to do bbetter..thanx for telling us how to find out!
>DREW
 Not refering to you, friend. Just that people who post don't always have
 their info right. And once again for those who can't pay attention.
 A2 Jettas are all HYDRAULIC...........No If's ands or Buts about it.
 If a mechanic charges you for a lifter adjustment, then grab a heavy object
  and slug him with it, then get back your $$$, then find a new mechanic...


>-- 
>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
>?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Subject: corrado speedo error
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:51:42 EST


dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill) writes:

DH> I am experiencing
DH>a 15Km/h error at 100km/h. Any ideas would be welcome.

I don't have any solutions for you ing fixing the error; but I ca
tell you how to tell EXACTLY the speed youare going.

On Hwy 401 and 400 you will occasionally see little yellow triangles
that police in airplanes use to time your speeds. (There are some
heading 401 east towards Oshawa from Toronto). These triangles are
exactly 1/2 of a Kilometer apart. If you have a stopwatch, set your
speed on the cruise control and time how long it takes to go through
the triangles. 

1800 divides by either the time or the speed will give you the
other.. so if you are aiming for 120 KMpH you should be getting 15
seconds per 1/2 klick.

Hope this helps...

(BTW, I think that you've either called or been up at the
dealership [York VW] .. if you are up there again pop in and say
hello!) 

Tom Neumann
---
  DeLuxe 1.25 #350  I sell Volkswagens.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: sjohnson@frx193.intel.com (Steve Johnson - IMD ~)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Thermostatic Control Cable - '70 Bug
Date: 18 Nov 92 18:12:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: INTEL Corporation, Folsom, CA

In article <13920014@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> you write:
>The son of my SO has just acquired a '70 bug.  In attempting to get it smogged
>it was found that the Thermostatic Air Cleaner control cable was missing.
>The thing passed all smog tests except for the disconnected cable.
>He got one from San Jose, CA for $40!!!! Looks like a bike brake cable.
>I see where it connects to the flapper on the air cleaner, but I cant find
>where is connects on the other end.  I assume that it is somewhere on the 
>manifold to get some temp sensing. Can someone be specific as to where
>it connects to.  I assume the looped end snapps on to the flapper. THanks
>
>

First off, I can't believe you failed smog because of this item.  Personally,
I would just go to another garage to get it smogged.

All this wire does is open or close the main air intake of the carburetor air 
filter housing allowing warm air generated by the engine to be sucked into the
carburertor when the engine is still warming up. The valve allows normal ambient
air in after the car has warmed up.  The valve is controlled by this wire (the one
you replaced) which is attached to an armature on the back of the fan shroud (The 
armature also controls the amount of fresh air being blown by the engine for cooling
during warmup and normal engine operating temperature) which is pushed up or down by 
an accordian type thermostat which is just below the push- rod tubes on the passenger 
side of the engine.

I suppose there is a spec that explains how to set this wire so that the valve
closes during warm-up and is open after warm-up.  I would tie it off such that
when the car is warmed up, that it is wide open to allow ambient air in only.

Hope this helps

Steven
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: I now own a VW. How do I drive it?????
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 15:38:53 GMT

In article <102279@bu.edu> bikdoc@bu.edu (Sanford Whitehouse) writes:
>            How high do I go on the RPM's.  For the most part
> I'm an aggressive responsible driver.  Do high RPM's wear VW's
> out?  What will make Campy (named after campignolo bike parts)
> happy?

It's sorta common sense, but no body mentioned holding the revs down until 
the engine is fully warm (of course, common sense is not always right).  When its cold, the internal engine tolerances are going to be somewhat greater, the oil won't be flowing as well, etc.  Add to this the fact (?) that bearing loads are rpm dependent, and it makes sense to take it easy until warm.  Personally, I limit the revs on my Audi to about 3 grand until the temp guage is half way to it's normal operating position, and to 4000 until its all the way.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: teek@flight.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 20:23:01 GMT


Speed governors:

BMW only does it on the 3 series... not on the faster (more expensive)
cars.  Hmmm.... r they trying to protect the poor people from
themselves?!


-- 
Teek (Prateek Dwivedi)                  teek@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca
Research Assistant                      pdwivedi@systems.watstar.uwaterloo.ca
Flight Control Systems Group            (519)885-1211 x5314     Voice
University of Waterloo, Canada          (519)746-3077           Fax
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Edward Reddy  MI)
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 20:55:25 GMT

In article <1epjnsINNja9@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>nope..sorry. The also do it on the 750il's, and the 850i. Not sure
>about the others, but i KNOW they do it on these two, and can probably
>find the article on the 850.
>DREW

Well, in CARandDRIVER, the top speeds of the 318 is 119mph.
325i - 128mph.
525i - 128mph.
535i - 148mph.
735i - 140mph.
750i - 158mph.
850i - 156mph.
M5   - 156mph.
 
Does a car that can go 156mph have a govener? Think about that one...
 
140mph is really fast. A Corvette ZR-1 is 171mph - also extremley fast.
 
I don't know, but when I was in germany, even doing 125mph was plenty
speed. But 140 in a Golf? Eeeek. Do I even want to be in a Golf VR6
doing 140mph? Hmmmm. I doubt that the vehicle is governed. The Corrado
VR6 does 140mph quite well, but I would have to assume its .32 drag
coefficient(sp) would eventually stop it somewhere. The Golf is lighter,
but has more drag. 140mph would seem a logical speed for a 172(is that
correct?) HP engine.
From: eliot@engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 16V golf gti mk3 gets bashed by CAR
Date: 19 Nov 92 17:31:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: engr.Nov19.172832.18342
Organization: University of Washington


i received the december issue of CAR yesterday and on the cover in big font:
"golf loses its balls".  yow!!  it was compared to a citroen ZX and a honda
civic VTi (not available here).  the civic won the comparison because it was
the most fun car, even if the gti had better chassis.  i will post more
details later today.

anyway, the new gti 16v has a 2 liter engine pumping out 150bhp and a much
flatter torque curve than the previous iteration.  i guess that's the reason
for the delay.  i think that for the US, the 8V GTI III will have a very
short life and will in the future have the 16V unit in it.

eliot
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: AUDI 5000S Help
Date: 18 Nov 92 11:27:41 GMT

In article <6632@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca>, awelker@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca (Andrew Welker) writes:
> Hello all, I hope you can be of some help! Well, the MacPherson struts are starting
> to give out on my '84 Audi 5000S. My mechanic (whom I trust) said the new inserts
> are $140 Can each and suggested that aftermarket replacement would be cheaper and
> last longer. What would you recommend as replacements? What kind of cost can I expect?
> Is my mechanic right? Thanks in advance!
> 
> Andrew Welker
> 
> 


Both KYB and Boge make gas charged replacement cartriges which
I have had good luck with for less than half of what you have
quoted.

                                    Mike sylvester  Umass
                                    sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
From: drparul@phazer.ksu.ksu.edu (TRANSCEND  G O D)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: needs help....fifth gear jumps back to neutral after changing clutch
Date: 16 Nov 92 07:36:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: phazer.1e8t8hINNbjr
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: phazer.ksu.ksu.edu


 i have problems with my vw rabbit gti enginer
 it has 5 speed
 i replace the cluth adn pressure plate assembly last week
 after these changes it started ...
 
 needs help ....any answer



 shri j kotdawala
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: Re: 16V conversion
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords: Like....tumblers?????
Organization: Texas A&M University
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 06:33:00 GMT

In article <ggr19bb@rpi.edu>, squiec@vccnw14.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier) writes...
> 
>   Hey there folks.... I've been trying to get this thing up for a while and
> I keep getting lazy. I need the help of a semi-guru of H2O VW's.
> I have a 83 Cabrio(Rabbit Convertible, but whats the difference?) and I
> want to swap engines for a 16V out of a '87 GTI. I got the engine for almost 
> nothing( with close-ratio gearbox) and the full wiring harness and assorted
> FI pieces. I have a few questions that I'm unclear on:
>   1)What should or can I use for exhaust. I was thinking of using a Scirocco
>      16V manifold and downpipe and hooking it into my TT 2" exhaust. Are
>      the exhaust manifolds for the Scir16V and Golf/Jetta16V the same?
>      Cuz I got the one from the GTI...

You should use the exhaust from the 16V Scirocco, which is also an A1 car
like your Cab.  The A2 (Golf/GTi) manifold simply will not fit.  Techtonics
can surely supply you with everything from the manifold back.

>   2)Will my bunny 5-speed linkage work with the close ratio box??

Yes, no problems.

>   3)What engine mounts do I use..the ones from a 16VScirocco???

Again, since the Scirocco is an A1 car, you need to use these mounts.  

>   4)Exactly how do I hook the KE-Jetronic FI into my rabbit chassis/harness.
>     Will I need the transfer pump or not? 
>     If you have GOOD info on the connections/hook-ups I need to make then
>     either e-mail them direct or e-mail me your address and I'll send a 
>     SASE for the info (like printed pages, diagrams, etc.)

By far, the most difficult question.  Merging the two wiring harnesses will
be the most complicated task, sure to cause you more grief than anything
else in this project.  I don't have any specific answers, but talk to the
guys at New Dimensions, as they are familiar with the A1/16v swap.

>   5) I dont have a prob with the reversed inlet action between the two 
>      systems, I'm just gonna modify the placement of the battery,Shield
>     washer res., and FI airbox. 
>   6)How easy is it to change the flanges inthe close ratio (100mm) box
>     with the normal(90mm) ones in my bunny, I don't want new axles.
>     Will I need any special tools??

It's not too hard.  I have done it but I don't remember what exactly it
entailed.  Make sure you get new seals from the dealer, and follow Bentley.

You should have a lot of fun with your new motor in this car... but don't
forget the chassis reinforcements, especially in a Cabriolet.  If you find
a 16V Scirocco, GET THE LOWER STRESS BAR!  Nobody ever bothers with these
at most salvage yards, and it can be had for about $20.  

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cadyj@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: 46mm wrench for nut
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 18:32:23 GMT




    You can go to a bicycle shop and get a 46mm headset wrench.  It is
kind of thin(5mm) but it might work. It only cost about $10.  Call ahead
first, not all shops have it in stock.


joe cady
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw