HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: HOW TO AVOID HITTING THE WALL IN GARAGE
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 06:12:53 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Ehsan Kalami (ehsan@attila.weitek.COM) wrote:
: 
: hi, I am sure a lot of people have a similar problem. Where can one buy
: blocks of cement/concrete so that we know how far to drive a car into
: garage. similar to one found in parking lots?

Pretty interesting at all the tennis ball entries.  As for myself, our
garage was equipped with a concrete stop just like the one found in 
parking lots and by code it was secured to the floor with bolts.  I'm not
sure where the builder got it but many times I just come flying into the
garage, and abruptly park the car against the block.  No gentle, time-
consuming parking maneuvers.  Heck, I just ram the sucker, shut the 
engine off, set the emergency brake and I'm outta there!  I bet I can 
park and get out of the rig in 1/5th the time it takes to position against
a "tennis ball".  

In all seriousness, I would call a paving outfit.  They would know where
to go in your area.  Otherwise, dress up in black and go on a midnight
cruise for a 5-finger discount...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar)
Subject: Re: GM Problems (was Re: saturn/OLDs speculation)
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 16:16:49 GMT

> cid@athena.mit.edu (Derek H Cedillo) writes:

>It's almost a sacrilidge to take the vette and camero
                                                ^^^^^^
>from chevy.  (well the camero is being phased out anyway
                        ^^^^^^

Damned it, for the last time, its is spelled

CAMARO   

with an A!

C-A-M-A-R-O   

-- 
|       Michael G. Mshar        | My Life-Long Goal: To keep common sense    |
|   mmshar@mn.ecn.purdue.edu    | alive and keep the idiots from taking over.|
|  mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu   |     \\President, Nice Guys Anonymous//     |
|____>>> United States Steel, Mechanical Engineer, Technical Services <<<____|
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: wilsont@rahul.net (Timothy Wilson)
Subject: NOx, hydrogen, and zero emmissions
Organization: a2i network
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 02:47:52 GMT

First off, NOx is produced whenever there is combustion of any sort in 
our atmosphere.

You _do_not_ need to inject water into the cylinder... thats an old 1960-1970
kludge to stop the engine from having the explosion in the intake tubes.
it does nothing for emmisions, it saves the intake system if you are using
something as stupid as a carbuerator. 

Emmission control is through the fuel/air ratio. The ratio is so extreme, 
( i forget which way) that there is a serious power loss.

The japanese have a Z running on LH2, they inject it straight into the cylinder
no need to heat it.

Zero Emmisions: Its just that... ZERO. a zero emmission vehicle does not 
have a tail pipe!
I thought this was really stupid, but its true. (or so i was told by my
energy professor)

So unless the laws change, H2 has a slim future in CA. (where zero emmisions 
started anywayas)

The last point, IC engines are a bad idea. Try a fuel cell. No NOx..
you only get water vapor. 

UTC has a fuel cell that weighs 90kg, but puts out 300kw. (400hp)
the draw back is that it costs 1/2 million dollars. :(

What do you expect for platinum and gold covered nodes.


Timothy "I wrote a 15 page paper on it" Wilson.



-- 
Timothy Wilson <wilsont@rahul.net>
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: troyf@microware.com (Troy Frericks)
Subject: Re: Raising the limit
Organization: Microware Systems Corp., Des Moines, Iowa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 20:04:38 GMT

In article <Af2nRGe00YUoEW3FRe@andrew.cmu.edu> Jyri Virkki <jyri+@CMU.EDU> writes:
>jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes:
>> 
>> 
>> The new econoboxes are certainly getting better, though, and there
>> never was a problem with the midsized cars.  100mph is too high for
>> most of the econoboxes though -- many of them can't even maintain
>> 85mph.
>
>Well I guess it depends on what cars you classify in the category. But
>at least of the cars I've been in and/or driven, I've never seen any
>that couldn't maintain a cruising speed of 85mph. And not many would
>have trouble maintaining 100mph either. Specifically, I could
>guarantee that a 89 Civic DX (automatic, even!) will have no
>difficulty keeping 110mph. A 91 323 (base model) will not have any
>difficulty maintaining 100mph. Heck, even a base model 86 Civic will
>do 90mph for hours. So I'm not exactly sure which are those cars that
>cannot cruise at 85mph. Maybe Yugos, never had a chance to drive one
>of those :-)
>
>
>Jyri J. Virkki | DoD#561 | jyri+@cmu.edu | Carnegie Mellon University | MSINI
>jyri@[rummat3|rmece02].upr.clu.edu       | Use finger to obtain PGP public key


I think that we are missing the point.  I think that most people will aggree, and
infact there is research that shows that most speedlimits are 10-15 m/h lower
than what most people consider 'safe and reasonable'.  It intuitively follows
that if the old 85% rule were used to set speed limits, then most speed limits
would raise 10-15 mp/h.  This would mean interstate speed limits set at
75 m/h (which my father used to drive [legally], in the days before radial tires, 
anti-lock breaks, independent suspention, air bags, even seat belts).  Please
keep in mind, when the national speedlimit raised from 55 m/h to 65 m/h, we
saw a DROP in highway fatilities.

Granted that statistics, being what they are, don't really show much.  The
point is that speed limits should be set by engineers, not politicians.
Engineers have efficiency and saftey in mind [safe and reasonable!].
Politicians reason that lower speedlimits result in more tickets, which 
results in cash flow (and they have the backing of insurance companies that 
use the ticket as an excuse to raise rates).

-
Troy Frericks                      Internet: troyf@MICROWARE.COM
Microware Systems Corporation          UUCP: uunet!mcrware!troyf
1900 NW 114th St                      Phone: (515)224-1929
Des Moines, IA 50325-7077               Fax: (515)224-1352
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Help! Ford service disaster!!!
Date: 19 Nov 92 19:02:51
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: zug.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: greg@cherokee.b23b.ingr.com's message of Wed, 18 Nov 1992 12:41:22 GMT


In article <1992Nov18.124122.2342@infonode.ingr.com> greg@cherokee.b23b.ingr.com (Greg Moritz) writes:

   > Then if I didn't get satisfaction I would call the regional Ford office.  

   They'll be sure to send you some nice form letters ...

Wow!  You got form letters.  That's better than I ever got.

   > Next I would call the national headquarters and talk to Ford's national 
   > customer service hotline.  

   Nah, they'll just give you the number of the regional Ford office 
   mentioned above ...

Or, after you've called six times, tell you that the zone office
manager will call you (he didn't).

--

      -- Philip Greenspun

-------------------------------------------------------------
MIT Department of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science
545 Technology Square, Rm 433, Cambridge, MA 02139
(617) 253-8574
Newsgroups: rec.autos

In rec.autos, crpresto@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Charlie Preston) writes:

| In article <1ejmb4INNl2l@travis.csd.harris.com> kbeal@amber (Ken Beal) writes:
| >Charlie Preston (crpresto@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu) wrote:
| >:      BTW I do *not* want air bags in my vehicles!
| >
| >	Why not?  I agree with your discussion of collision avoidance, but
| >I'd want as many backup systems keeping me alive as possible.
| >
| IMHO devices that make people 'feel safe' (large bumpers, steel beams in
| doors, safety glass, padded dash, etc.) contribute to the number of
| incompetent people who operate motorized vehicles.  Have you ever met someone
| who refused to drive or ride in a particular car because s/he didn't 'feel
| safe'?  (Often the excuse is the car doesn't have enough metal.)  I believe
| that if people associated a greater risk of serious injury or fatality with
| driving there would be better drivers, fewer drivers and a lot fewer
| collisions.

I used to wonder why people bought Volvos, until I tried a 244.  You sit high
up (or somehow, you feel higher), the car feels *solid*, you get the
impression (maybe real) that there is a lot of metal protecting you from the
world.  Then, the reputation precedes it (here, the joke is "Looks like a
tank, feels like a tank, drives like a tank, it *IS* a tank!").

I suspect this feeling of safety translates into a feeling of invulnerability.
Maybe that's why on this net, we have the stereotypical description of a 
Volvo driver who is an absolute danger to all around.

Now for more bad news.  SAAB is now advertised with "Contrary to public
perception, Sweden's safest car is the SAAB, voted by Folksam (sp?), Sweden's
largest auto insurance agent......".  Guess this means that y'all have to
watch out for SAABs too.


Ooh.  Getting warm.  Asbestos suit on!

lawrence

|      The term moral hazard is sometimes used in the insurance industry to
| describe a particular behavior in humans:  if a person perceives that risk of
| loss is redused, then s/he will accept more risk or participate in riskier
| activities.
|      I don't care to pay for a lot of 'safety equipment' on a vehicle which
| does nothing to improve or assist my driving.  On my car it is just extra
| baggage.
| -- 
| Chas                         DoD #7769
|
| "Oh, how can you be in two places at once when you're not anywhere at all?"
|                                                - Firesign Theatre
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jmr@nobska.er.usgs.gov (Jim Robb)
Subject: Fix rear-window defroster?
Organization: U.S.Geological Survey
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 15:06:41 GMT

	Anybody know how to fix a scratch across one
of the glued-on bands of a rear-window defroster?  Are there
known techniques or kits?  (I can speculate about a razor blade,
foil, and glue, and I'm curious if anybody's been successful at it.)

			Jim

--
    		Jim Robb 		jmr@nobska.er.usgs.gov	
		US Geological Survey 	(508) 457-2297
		Quissett Campus
		Woods Hole, MA 02543
From: frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:10:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Leather Seats
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos

    * I don't know, maybe the sun in Arizona
    *is different to the sun in MD.  I doubt it though.

The difference is the humidity.  The high humidity in Maryland cuts the
intensity of the sunlight quite a bit.  In a dry climate the sunlight
is much more intense.  Also the temperatures is Arizona get at least
10 and likely 20 degrees hotter.

Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard             (707) 794-4168 work, (707) 538-3693 home
1212 Valley House Drive     (707) 794-3844 fax, IT175, XT350, Seca 750
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG, LAW, AMA, Dod #7566, I'm the NRA.
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade)
Subject: Re: HOW TO AVOID HITTING THE WALL IN GARAGE
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 22:04:14 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.133533.10526@acd4.acd.com> jwg@sedv1.acd.com ( Jim Grey) writes:
>In article <1992Nov19.020843.4524@attila.weitek.COM> ehsan@attila.UUCP () writes:
>>
>>hi, I am sure a lot of people have a similar problem. Where can one buy
>>blocks of cement/concrete so that we know how far to drive a car into
>>garage. similar to one found in parking lots?
>>thanks.
>
>
>There are other ways to avoid smacking into the back wall of your garage:
> 
>1.  Attach an old tire to the back wall.  When you bump up against it, stop.
> 
hmm, should this tire be h-rated?  what size should it be?

>2.  Hang a tennis ball from a long string, at about the place where your
>    windshield should be when the car is where you want it.  When your
>    windshield hits the tennis ball, stop.
i'd use wilson number 8s!
> 
>3.  Paint a mark on the left or right wall of the garage at about the place
>    your body is in the car when the car is where you want it.  When you
>    drive in and are lined up with the mark, stop.
> 
note: this only works if you sit in the same place every time you drive your car!


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mjarvi@vipunen.hut.fi (Mikko I J{rvi)
Subject: Re: Stick VS Auto.
Keywords: HOW STUPID CAN A MAN BE
Reply-To: mjarvi@vipunen.hut.fi (Mikko I J{rvi)
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 13:17:19 GMT


> mjarvi@vipunen.hut.fi (Mikko I J{rvi) writes:

>    If a completely normal human doesnt learn how to drive whit stick in
> 15 min. he/she is an IDIOT. So what is the problem in US of A ??
> 
> P.S Am I the only one who is annoyed from the lack of engine brakeing while
>     driveing automatic?

Well, did you ever try using the D2 and D1 positions on an automatic?? It
                       ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
  Isnt that then like driveing whit manual?     


-- 
!  Mikko J{rvi             !    " This signature is protected by         !
!  Matkamiehnpolku 2 B 12  !                       SMITH & WESSON "      ! 
!  00320 HELSINKI          !    " Skodalla meni hyvin, mutta menk||n"    !  
!  FINLAND                 !                       HELKAMA-AUTO          !     
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jjt@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (john.j.tabone)
Subject: Re: the Best Fuel Additives!
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs - Allentown, PA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:42:55 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.043334.13891@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Clarkkent) writes:
>A while ago I read about some of what are generally accepted to be 
>the best fuel injector cleaner additives.  I believe
>one was Red Line's fuel injector cleaner.  It's kind of expensive(~4$),
>I was wondering if some neteran could email or post what the other(s)
>are.  Thanks,
>
>Adam
>
>awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
>
Adam,

I've been using the Chevron fuel injection cleaner with Techtron. I have a 1990
Subaru Legacy w/22K miles and I add a bottle to an almost empty tank of gas 
every oil change. I've also read in car magazines that the Techtron additive is
very good. I can't remember all the details, but I think the cheaper fuel 
injection cleaners are actually detrimental to the rubber parts in the
injection system.

The Techtron additive is also quite pricey ($5.49), however I think it's worth
the price. My car runs flawlessly even after 22K miles. My neighbor bought her
Legacy 2 days after me, which I drove recently. She never added fuel injection
cleaner to her gas and now is experiencing hesitation, hard starting, etc.
There's only 17K on her car.

I hope this was a help to you, Adam. Happy driving!

John
From: clev@lager.cisco.com (Robert Clevenger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Mazda MPV
Date: 19 Nov 92 13:49:42
Organization: cisco Systems
Distribution: rec
NNTP-Posting-Host: lager.cisco.com


I am thinking of buying a Mazda MPV minivan and would be interested in
comments about the vehicle:

* driving and handling (including in snow)
* durability and quality
* maintainability (ease of, cost)
* customer satisfaction
* ability to pull trailer at ~3000 lbs. (power, handling, braking)
* general comments

Please respond to me directly as I don't normally monitor these
newsgroups.  Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

-
clev@cisco.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: iscstk@nuscc.nus.sg (Siew Teng Kean)
Subject: Re: Slick 50 in aluminum engine?
Organization: National University of Singapore
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:13:27 GMT

In article <1ea3fpINNpp0@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan) writes:
>
>In a previous article, rteasdal@polyslo.csc.calpoly.edu (Rusty) says:
>
>>	My '91 Nissan NX 2000 (greatly beloved) is now in the low
>>twenties on accumulated mileage, and the engine seems to have broken
                                                  ^^^^^
>>in quite nicely. 

How can I tell if an engine is broken in nicely?

>I have added Slick 50 to my '92 Sentra SE-R when it was at 7,000miles and I
>thought that the engine was broken in already.  Does that mean that i had
>added Slick 50 too soon and therefore will prevent any further breaking in?
>I thought that the manual suggested that the engine would be broken in at 1,00miles.

I have had a new Sentra for 2 weeks now, and I intend to treat the car the best
I can, and keep it running for years (at the prices we have to pay for cars
here in Singapore, I have maximum incentive to keep it running forever. Imagine
paying US$46,000 for a Sentra!).  I don't go above 50mph, don't rev above 
3000rpm, and try not to crash the brakes (I'm extremely motivated to break-in 
the engine well, as you can see).

But, it's frustrating. I don't know how long I can keep to my self-imposed
limits before I go insane. Rusty's question is also mine: when can I consider an
engine broken in? Is it broken in 80% after 1000 miles, 90% after 10K, 99%
after 20K miles? Also, what are the effects of not breaking in an engine
properly? Can I expect a X% drop in engine life and fuel economy? 
Enquiring minds want to know.

Teng-Kean
-- 
Teng-Kean Siew                   Dept. of Information Systems & Computer Science
siewtk@@iscs.nus.sg              National University of Singapore
iscstk@nuscc.nus.sg              Lower Kent Ridge Road, Singapore 0511.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: WHAT IS A MITSUBISHI EXPORT ?????????
From: thomas@datamark.co.nz (Thomas Beagle)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 22:45:31 GMT
Organization: Datamark International Ltd.

In article <1992Nov20.145323.9027@ac.dal.ca> roneill@ac.dal.ca writes:
>Could someone please tell me or describe to me what a
>Mitsubishi Export is?

From your descripion it would be what in New Zealand is called the
Cahariot and in Australia, the Nimbus.

In body style they are between a Toyota Previa and a stationwagon.

I haven't driven one myself but they are quite popular here and have
had good reviews in the various car magazines.

It sounds like it would suit your needs fairly well.
-- 
    Thomas Beagle | thomas@datamark.co.nz           Work: 64 4 233 8186
Datamark Intl Ltd | thomas@cavebbs.welly.gen.nz     Home: 64 4 499 3832
 Technical Writer |   Be kind to me, I think I'm suffering from angst.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Tips on Driving a Manual
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 19:55:43 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Zakir H. Sahul (sahul@loading-zone.Stanford.EDU) wrote:
: In particular, I would like to know what I can do to make my driving more fun?
: (I drive a 5-spd Toyota Tercel, ie., no horsepower)

Some of the most fun I've had was abusing my wife's Toyota Tercel.  Just
keep the rev's up, watch out of cops and big trucks, but don't try to take
corners too fast (the tires on my wife's were pretty narrow and rolled under
quite easily).  I had a blow out on the freeway once and it was remarkably
well mannered getting it stopped.  

Paste some flashy graphics on the side and you'll feel like you've just
gained 50 hp!

Enjoy.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Uninsured Motorist Insurance
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 23:26:21 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.155219.21639@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu>, crpresto@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Charlie Preston) writes:

|> I don't know how it applies to no-fault states but uninsured/underinsured
|> motorist coverage is one of the best insurance bargains.  Compared to other
|> types of vehicle insurance it is cheap.
|>      Suppose you have a collision which is some other person's fault and his/
|> her insurance will pay up to $20k for your medical expenses.  Suppose those
|> expenses are $50k+.  You might find a lawyer willing to sue the person to
|> cover your medical expenses in excess of the $20k but you are not likely to
|> collect unless the person is very rich.  If you have uninsured/underinsured
|> motorist coverage for $100k your insurance will cover your medical expenses
|> up to $100k which are not covered by the other person's insurance.

One word of warning here about Uninsured/Underinsured Motorist coverage.  Both
my sons had wrecks involving hit-and-run drivers.  One was minor (<$500 damage)
and they found the guy, who eventually paid.  The other was serious (>$8000 in
medical and a totalled car) and they never found the other driver.  

Uninsured/Underinsured only pays if the other driver can be found or there are
witnesses to the fact that there was another driver.  Otherwise the insurance
company may deem it a "phantom driver" and exclude coverage.  In this case my 
Medical coverage paid out $5000.  Also, in cases of hit-and-run your car's damage
cannot be covered by the Uninsured/Underinsured but must be covered by your
Collision Coverage.   Simply put these Uninsured/Underinsured coverages are 
totally worthless against hit-and-runs.

As a result, I now carry collision on my older cars at a high deductible ($500)
to cover replacement and maintain at least $5000-10000 for medical coverage.


Mark
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Consumer Reports
Date: 23 Nov 92 22:04:45 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Distribution: usa

Here's a critique about Consumer Reports that I found in rec.photo. It's
relevance to rec.autos extends to the point that hobbyists involved
in other disciplines also question CR's competence and qualifications
for evaluating products in those other areas.

Why does CR waste paper and ink rating such things as tomato ketchup? I
can summarize it in one sentence. If you like a brand's flavor, buy it.
So one anonymous evaluator thought the color was not rosy red like the
others. So what?

>Article <1992Nov17.154623.44888@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu>,(Christopher Gunn) wrote:
>
>>Do people with real knowledge of cameras think _CU_ does a good job?

No.

Well, maybe a little:

Years ago, CU compared professional 35mm SLR systems (in this case, the
Canon F-1 vs Nikon F2 and lenses).

Their conclusion? The Canon system couldn't be considered to be a "real"
fully-pro system, since it didn't offer as many fisheye lenses as did
Nikon.

This, of course, would have also downgraded Leica for the same reason.

When comparing bicycles, in the same vein, they marked down ones whose
brakes could be adjusted so that you could lock up the rear or front
wheels by squeezing the brake levers hard enough.  Note that brakes
adusted so that they *can't* be locked up are far less safe than the
alternate. (How do you ensure that the wheels will almost-but-not-quite
lock up at all speed/weight/road surface conditions?)

You *can* get good information from them, on things like soap and cereal.

You can also get good information from their camera/bicycle/othertechnicalthing
tests, but once past quantifiable items like price, weight, number of lenses in
the system, you're on your own.


--
-------------------------------------------------------
| Some things are too important not to give away      |
| to everybody else and have none left for yourself.  |
-------------------------------------------------------


JSLee
Newsgroups: rec.autos,misc.consumers.house