HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: feeding times (was: New Puppy - Need Advice!!)
Date: 31 Aug 92 15:51:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: moe.17tf5mINNdl7
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: ralph.eece.ksu.edu

bws20@duts.ccc.amdahl.com (Brian W Simmons) writes:

[Feed at specific times and pick it up discussion deleted]

>I suppose this would be true for some individual dogs, IF you left out
>massive quantities of food.  If you just leave out enough for one meal
> and let the dog eat when it feels like it, then your scenario simply
>cannot happen.  PArticualarly for breeds susceptible to bloat, providing
>one meal a day is not a wise idea.  Our 93 lb dog gets about 7 cups of
>dry food per day, half in the moring and half in the evening.  

Unless this dog is a puppy 7 cups is a *lot* of food for one day.  My
87 lb Rottweiler is eating about 3 cups / day of Lamb and Rice Max
with two large milkbones.  He is in very good shape.  I have a friend
who feeds her Danes about 5 - 7 cups per day of Max depending on their
age and activity level.  They range from about 110 lbs to 130 lbs.

I feed my adults 2 meals / day, and my puppies 3 meals per day.  If
they don't eat what is put in front of them, it is taken away and they
get it back the next meal.  Since I feed multiple dogs inside, this
allows me to make certain how much and how quickly each dog eats.  If
I have normally good eater who picks at his food, I begin to watch
closely for other signs of problems.  Usually, it is nothing serious,
but once in a while I have detected some problem earlier than I would
have otherwise.  Also, eating regularly helps in housebreaking.  My 6
month old is now trained to the point that he has two bowel movements
per day.  One at about 7:00 AM (on our morning walk) and one at about
8:30 PM (our evening walk.)

If you have a "normal" eater or one who is not overly picky, they
should eat all you put down in front of them.  If they are leaving
food, they may be overfed.  A good rule of thumb is to feed them 2/3
of what they would eat if fed by free choice.  Obviously, this does
not apply to dogs that are working very hard every day.  They may need
all the calories you can get into them.  

A regular feeding and elimination schedule is especially useful if you
travel with your dogs.  This can save you lots of hassle as you go
down the road with your canine friends.

--
Terry Hull  -  terry@eece.ksu.edu
Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering, Kansas State University
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: toolan@scivax.stsci.edu
Subject: Re: Breed recommendation for new dog owner
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:44:41 GMT

In article <BtM519.Gyx@mail.boi.hp.com>, Judy Conrad <judy@hpbsrl.boi.hp.com> 
writes:

> Hi,
> 
>   I am trying to help a friend pick a dog and would like some help.
> 
>   The important info:
> 
>     -  Her husband has had dogs but she has not, I think that this will
>         be her dog.
>     -  She wants a big dog, prefers if it didn't shed.
>     -  This will be a house dog (so low activity indoors).  They do have
>         a fenced yard.
> 
>   I was thinking about a Giant Schnauzer or Standard Poodle.  What's the
> thought of the net about these breeds?  Any suggestions for others?  
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> Judy Conrad
> judy@hpbsrl.hp.com


	I can make a suggestion for another breed--a Greyhound--specifically
a retired racer.  They are large dogs height-wise, though not necessarily
weight-wise.  They are extremely short-haired, and a weekly brushing will keep
shedding well under control.  Most are very laid back (total couch potatoes if
you let them on the furniture), so they're ideal house dogs.  We only have a
four foot fence and an average size yard and it seems to suit our two Grey-
hounds just fine.  Neither has ever made an attempt to jump the fence.

	Adopting a racer would probably get you a 2 - 5 year old dog of your
choice of sex or color(s).  The dog would already be leash and crate trained,
but would need to be taught how to go up and down steps.  Greyhounds are gentle,
sensitive, affectionate, intelligent, and excellent with children.  They
deserve a fate better than the sometimes brutal death that awaits many of them
after their racing days are done (see the article in the August issue of 
Reader's Digest for more detail).

	There are rescue groups nationwide trying to find homes for as many 
Greyhounds as possible.  If you'd like more information, please let me know.
I can probably provide a phone number for the rescue group nearest you (but I
can't vouch for the accuracy of the number--the contact people do change from
time to time).  There is a virus hitting many Greyhound tracks now which has
resulted in quarantine in some places, but I am sure that once the quarantine
is lifted there will again be thousands of dogs available.

				Sharon Toolan
				Baltimore, MD
				toolan@stsci.edu
				"Mom" to Amber and Topaz, retired racers

				Make a fast friend--adopt a Greyhound!
From: martin@biostat.washington.edu (Don Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Hunting Abilities: Lab's
Date: 28 Aug 92 18:57:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Biostatistics, School of Public Health, Univ. of Wash.


Well, there seems to be great enthusiesm for changing the AKC
requirements and I hate to dampen the joy but...

Has anyone looked at:

1. The number of titles awarded relative to the number of
dogs regestered? Typically there are about 150-225 championships
awarded per year for breeds that are not rare. I am under the
impression that tracking , field trial awards etc are rarer.

I don't have the regestration numbers handy but there are 
probably well over 20 000 labs regestered each year. After a few 
years you would find the regestered dogs on the verge of
extinction. 

No it is not going to be practical to get the number of awards large
enough to get an adequate gene pool for breeding.

2. Look at the awards listed for sie and dam. In confirmation
champions about 25% don't have a champion at all.

3. Remember that you need a big enough gene pool to maintain
a healthy breed. The pool is already small enough to cause
many problems for a number of breeds.

Given the above, I suspect that the AKC won't ignore the 
suggestion. They will circulate it for laughs. 

Sorry Gang

Don Martin
Widdershins Old English Sheepdogs
From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Subject: Re: SHOCK COLLARS (go ahead flame ME!!)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Reply-To: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Organization: ICS Dept., UC Irvine
Date: 26 Aug 92 20:42:19 GMT

In <1992Aug26.181922.26572@newshost.lanl.gov> crs@beta.lanl.gov (Charlie Sorsby) writes:

>Before I begin, I will say that I don't own a "shock collar" nor have
>I ever used one.  It is not, however, because I believe, as you
>seem to, that they are instruments of torture; it is because I
>can't afford one.

Just throwing in some information into the fray: as far as I know,
shock-collars are the single most effective way to snake-proof dogs...
Extremely useful, that, especially out west here.

--Cindy
--
Cindy Tittle Moore

Terrell's Chocolate Deduction--Hershe (Labrador Retriever)

The rec.pets.dogs FAQ -- all eight parts -- is available via ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/*.  There
is a mail server, email me for details.

In loving memory of Betsy: 4-10-92 to 8-19-92...
From: geschwent@vax.muskingum.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: New Puppy - Need Advice!!
Date: 3 Sep 92 00:49:31 -0600
Organization: Muskingum College

In article <1992Sep2.222510.28178@newshost.lanl.gov>, srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee) writes:
> In article <12710@almond.rl.ac.uk> ines@inf.rl.ac.uk (Ines Day) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug26.224604.13772@gateway.ssf-sys.DHL.COM> cmoussav@ssf-sys.DHL.COM (Carla Moussavi) writes:

CMOUSSAV, congratulations on the new puppy and trying to do the best for it.

Steve, thanks for the post. It was helpful and balanced.

Ines, having a :-/ day?

-- 
P.K.
Geschwent@vax.muskingum.edu
From: toolan@scivax.stsci.edu
Subject: Re: miniature greyhounds
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 13:42:43 GMT

In article <1992Sep02.193139.27836@ecst.csuchico.edu>, 
rgoldstone@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU (Robin, Girl Wonder) writes:

> At lunchtime today I was walking across campus when I saw the neatest dog!
> A crowd of people had gathered to watch this tiny little dog, running 
> FAST FAST FAST around the lawn.  The dog was a miniature greyhound.  He was
> so neat looking!  The owner told me his breed, but I didn't get a chance
> to ask her any more questions.  Can someone tell me about this breed?  Are
> they rare?  I have never seen a discussion of them here before.  Do they
> race these dogs like they race the big ones?  If so, is ther a rescue
> organization for them?  I'd love to have one of these dogs!
> 
> Any info is appreciated.
> -Robin
> ***********************************************************************
> Robin Goldstone, Systems Software Specialist
> California State University, Chico  Computing Services
> rgoldstone@oavax.csuchico.edu


	I'm certain the dog you saw was an Italian Greyhound.  To my knowledge,
they have all the great characteristics of their larger cousins, except for 
their larger size.  I do not believe that they are raced.  I've only seen one, 
and that was in May at MD GPA's annual Greyhound Reunion.  There was a woman 
there with a full-size ex-racer AND an Italian Greyhound.  The contrast alone 
created quite a stir.  There was an article in the paper about them some time 
ago that I know I kept.  If I can find it again, I'll post the general breed 
information it contained.

		*	*	*	*	*
				*
	Sharon Toolan		*	My opinions are mine alone;
	toolan@stsci		*	no one else would want them.
				*
		*	*	*	*	*

		Make a fast friend--adopt a Greyhound!

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: rmmchlsk@leland.Stanford.EDU (robert michalski)
Subject: Re: Dogs are lovely aren't they? (Twain quotation)
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 15:18:27 GMT

"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. 
This is the principal difference between a dog and a man."

-- Mark Twain
   _Pudd'nhead Wilson's Calendar_


Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Hunting ability in Labradors
Reply-To: jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 18:25:24 GMT

In article <2A9BBA3C.4012@ics.uci.edu>, tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
writes:
>In <1684F9491.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu> X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes) 
writes:
>>Actually, I think the "best" solution would be for the AKC to not
>>register pups born to a sire and dam that do not have their titles.
>>
>>My sample requirement for Labs:
>>   a JH
>>   1/3 of the points required for a CH
>>   CGC award
>
>How about health certificates as well?  EG, labs would also have the
>OFA and CERF or Wind-Morgan numbers.
                 ^^^^^^^^^^^
What is a Wind-Morgan #?

BTW, you folks have made an interesting point. Certainly when I looked
for my pup, I tried to stick with pedigrees with lots of titles (and
*not* just Ch's, also field and obedience titles). I failed miserably
(fell in love and just had to have him :+( - some people should just
not be allowed to visit puppies) but *next time* I'll be more 
careful and get a dog with a more rounded pedigree.

>>PS:  wouldn't this also take a big chunk out of the puppy mill
>>     problem too?)
>
>I would think so!
>
>>But, since the AKC makes it's money by registering litters and dogs,
>>I just don't see this happening anytime soon.

I don't know much about the UKC but aren't they mainly a working
registree? How do they ensure that registered dogs are functional?
Anyone have a clue?

>No, I think that would be the biggest problem.  The breed clubs might
>go for it, though.  And it sounds to me there are a lot of breeders
>who try to do this in the first place.  The problem is to get ALL the
>breeders to do so...                                          ^^^

Good luck - you should see the pet section of our local paper - filled
with ads for labs. A friend who breeds labs will often call these
people (to see what the lines are) and says few even have heard of
OFA or CERF :+(


********************************************************
* jane jackson and murphy b. lab, Am/Can CD, CGC, TDI  *
* jkjncs@ritvax.isc.rit.edu                            *
*                                                      *
* standard disclaimer applies...                       *
********************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Person in flux)
Subject: Re: How do you teach a dog to STAY?
Reply-To: kls4344@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 11:30:38 GMT

In article <Btunnv.98r@hsi.com>, hecht@hsi.com (Alice Hecht) writes:

>I have a 4 month old Boxer and would like to teach him how to stay. 

Why not combine the sit/stay with feeding times?  At each meal, command your
boxer to sit, then tell him to stay (put your palm in front of his snout to
give him a visual cue), then put the food dish down (you may have to grab his
collar and reinforce the sit/stay the first few times you try this) and wait a
few seconds.  Then say "Okay!" or some other release command for him to eat his
food.  

Katie
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Any good Newf books?
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:21:41 GMT
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <31AUG92.13413210.0178@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA> LS45@UNB.CA (LS45)
writes:
>We gaot a puppy from the pound, Newfoundland and maybe something else.  So
>now we find that we need some Newf books, and were wondering what
>everyone recommended.

Aren't you glad you asked? LOTS of Newf lovers on the network. Here are some
good breed reference books, listed in order of my personal preference. A great
source of canine books in general, and breed books from all over the world in
particular, is Direct Book Service, a mail-order company specializing in
canine books. Located in Wenatchee, Washington, their toll-free number is
800-776-2665.

My Newf favorites are 
The Newfoundland, JoAnn Riley & Betty McDonnell, 1985, Denlinger Publishers,
$29.95
This Is The Newfoundland, edited by Kitty Drury, 1978, TFH, $19.96

The New Complete Newfoundland,  Margaret Chern, 1975, Howell Books, $21.95

If you only buy one book, buy the Riley/McDonnell book. Also, consider buying
(or renting if your local library carries it) the AKC video of the
Newfoundland standard. Produced a few years ago, the video features dogs that
are still being shown, or are the parents of dogs competing and producing
puppies today. The video can SHOW you (not just tell you) what a Newfoundland
should look like..and why, using examples from today's breeding programs. Of
course, individual dogs are not identified, but "correct" and "faulty"
appearance, structure, & movement is identified. Correct Newfy temperament & a
brief history of the breed is also covered. A great resource tool for Newf
owners, and prospective owners. Order from the AKC or from the mail-order
folks above at $35/copy.

If you decide to really "get into" Newfs, I can give you the address of the
Newfoundland Dog Club of Canada - an active group  always welcoming fellow
Newf lovers. You can learn about water rescue training, carting,
freight-hauling, back-backing, etc with your Newf. 

Of course, the Newf folks on the network are always happy to answer any
questions about Newfs - any time, any where!
********************************************
Marget Johnson  
--
From: williamsk@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Desperately seeking a major)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: IAMS dog food
Date: 4 Sep 92 07:22:52 EST

In article <1992Sep3.162805.15036@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, smm1@troy.uucp (22142-michelson) writes:
> In article <1992Sep2.184445.18385@linus.mitre.org> bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith) writes:
>>another dog.  These days, our 8 month old puppy has always been on
>>Purina Puppy Chow, and does very good, except that his stools are a
>>little soft.  We tried IAMS, but he wouldn't touch it.  So we tried
Did you get the Purina Puppy Chow that is milk-coated?  They make another
puppy chow that has no milk coating on it.  My husky had the same problem
and the vet recommended that we switch to the non-milk-coated PPC.

All that aside, I would probably not raise my puppy on PPC.  Instead I would
switch the puppy to Lamb and Rice.  See if he likes that!

Kim
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: hecht@hsi.com (Alice Hecht)
Subject: How do you teach a dog to STAY?
Organization: 3M Health Information Systems, Wallingford, CT
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 13:19:06 GMT

Hi!
I have a 4 month old Boxer and would like to teach him how to stay.  He's
getting pretty good at sitting when I tell him to.  We're still working on
laying down and coming.  But I don't know how to go about telling him to
stay. Any ideas?

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: betsy@rainbow.uchicago.edu (Betsy Weatherhead)
Subject: Humane societies out there?
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 21:21:07 GMT


I'm interested in the existence and practices of humane societies/
animal shelters.  I am very impressed with the humane society that I
volunteer for, West Suburban Humane Society, just west of Chicago.
They are a no-kill shelter that looks after the medical, physical and
emotional needs of its animals.  Furthermore, they are very careful
about screening prospective adopters--with special requirements for
puppies, etc.  Before volunteering, I assumed it would be depressing
to work there.  Because the place is so dedicated to the animals, I
have found it very uplifting--especially in this world of so many
horror stories involving animals.  Fund raising seems to be a
perennial problem.  I'm wondering what other groups do.  I read
recently that there are only about 60 no-kill shelters in the country. 
Could this be true?  I'm surprised at how small this number is.  

Anyone who knows of a no-kill shelter, could you let me know it's
name, address and phone number?  If you have had any experience with a
shelter--good or bad--I'd like to hear your impressions.  And anyone
who has never volunteered at an animal shelter, give it a try!  It
can be a wonderful experience for any animal lover.  At the end of
the day you really feel like you've done something good.
-- 
                              O             betsy@rainbow.uchicago.edu
_          __                  \            
  \      /    \       -- >      O           E. C. Weatherhead
   \ __ /      \ __ /          /            5734 S. Ellis  Chicago, 60637
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Setter Questions?
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:44:05 GMT
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <seaGiyK00YV784dFZn@andrew.cmu.edu> sk2i+@andrew.cmu.edu (Steve
Klim) writes:
>         I have a few questions about a setter I had seen a few years ago.
>The setter seemed to have all the marking and traits of an Irish Setter
>with the exception he was black. ...................................

Steve: Most likely you saw a Gordon Setter, a black with tan markings setter
about the same size as an Irish (A Flat-Coated Retriver is all black, but
smaller than the Irish or Gordon). Males measure 24 to 27" at the shoulder and
weigh up to 80 lbs. Females are 23 to 26" at the shoulder and are
proportionatley smaller. Most pure-bred "pet" puppies from reputable breders
are priced in the $400- $800 price range. Gordon puppies should be in there 
somewhere.

To find Gordon breeders in your area, contact the Gordon Setter Club of
America, c/o Ms. Phyllis Tew, Secretary
7707 S. Rosemary Way, Ennglewood, CO 80112.

Good luck.................
Marget Johnson
--
From: trimpe_b@wums.wustl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: RE: Puppy ID collars
Date: 27 AUG 92 12:16:08 GMT
Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER
NNTP-Posting-Host: msnews.wustl.edu

In a previous article, michaelc@oz.plymouth.edu (Mike Clark) wrote:
>We are expecting a litter of little germans here on September 16th (YAY)
>and I remember back about 10 years ago when I had my last litter, I
>had trouble keeping track of who's puppy was who's etc...I have heard
>about some little ID collars you can buy, they come in different
>colors or something so you can mark the pups and keep track of
>them...However, I have not been able to locate any through my catalogs
>or any pet stores...Anyone have any ideas???
> 
>Thanks!
>Mike




	Another idea I've heard that I think is better.. is to paint
or rather polish one toenail of each pup when they are chosen and keep 
a record that way.  Those collars fall off(they did when we picked out
our pup) and are not always trustworthy.
Bev





Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jpk@Ingres.COM (Jon Krueger)
Subject: Re: SHOCK COLLARS (go ahead flame ME!!)
Reply-To: jpk@Ingres.COM (Jon Krueger)
Organization: Ingres Division, ASK Computer Systems.
Date: 2 Sep 92 02:50:37 GMT

Anne Beck writes:
> May patience stand you in good stead when your dog leaps the fence,
> runs into a car, and is smashed in the road.

Ah, but the consequences of not training are not at issue here.
No one has suggested neglecting training.  It has been claimed
(correctly) that patience is one component of good training.

> You obviously have dealt only with "amenable" dogs.

All we have to do is define "amenable" dogs as those who were
given good training, and the facts agree with you.

> if your dog ignores your voice JUST ONCE, you've taught him that
> he can win.  Bad news, that.

Correct.

But again, no one has suggested that.

You seem to think "patience" means "putting up with poor
behavior".

No one has suggested that either.

-- Jon

Jon Krueger  jpk@ingres.com  
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes)
Subject: Re: feeding times (was: New Puppy - Need Advice!!)
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 16:30:07 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.150222.29708@news.vanderbilt.edu>
vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu (VU Science Library) writes:
 
>
>>>   In our case, I leave
>>>   food and water for her at all times, again since we're not home during
>>>   the day.
>>
>>Water, yes.  Food, no.  Only put down the amount of food that the pup
>>will consume in 1 sitting, and take the remainder away.
>
>Why do you think this is so important?
 
For the same reason that it's not good for people to eat several dozen
times a day, they get fat.  At least that's the reasoning behind
following what people have been telling me for centuries.
 
      ----------------------------------------------
Chris Barnes            |
x005cb@tamvm1.tamu.edu  |  Only 5 more days until the start of
(409) 846-3273 (home)   |           hunting season (in Texas)
(409) 845-8454 (work)   |
From: donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Don Montgomery)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:10:34 GMT
Subject: Invisible Urine Spots Revealed!
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs

We had a hellova time potty-training our little Cocker.  She does fine
now, but during her training session, she left dribbles and puddles in
and on the carpet.  

The smell is strong enough that we can smell the urine trapped in the
carpet after the house has been closed up over a weekend.

Last night, I went thru the house with an ultra-violet light and lo
and behold, you could see every place poochie had had an "accident".
It was *amazing*!

My question to the net - without spending a fortune replacing the car-
pet, how do I get rid of the old urine spots?  I hear that there's some
kind of enzyme-based cleaner available, but how expensive is it to do
a carpet of some 1000 square feet? ...and does it work on old spots? 
There are so many places that I may as well do the entire carpet en masse.

Ideas, anyone?

Don Montgomery, Santa Rosa, CA
donrm@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com