From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [A] brakes suck in my '63
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 00:39:54 GMT

In article <1993Jan1.232422.8228@unvax.union.edu>, lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (purplehaze) writes:
>My brakes, in my '63 Bug, don't work.  At all.  Once, weeks ago, I bled them 
>and they magically returned, I figured "No problem, just air in the lines."
>Today they failed and I bled them (in a parking lot in 15 degree F weather),
>but absolutely no improvement.  I suspect the master-cylinder, which I hope
>I can replace myself, does anybody have any ideas on how to pinpoint what else
>the problem could be?  Should I go nuts and replace the wheel cylinders, too?
>I want to do this quickly, and w/out my mechanic's help.
>Thanks in advance.
>
>-- 
>Josh LaGrange                  *                    
>lagrangj@unvax.union.edu       *           (cute stuff deleted  
>Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
>The views that I express are shared by very few responsible people.
It sounds like your master is shot....but check to see the level
of your fluid in your reservoir. If it is low, I would suggest
you lift up the floor mats on the driver's side and see if
your brake line to the rear brakes is still intact.

Old bugs had a nasty habit of having the rear brake line corrode
inside the car, the brake fluid would then escape and collect
on the floor, under the floor mats, never to be seen again (
unless you lifted up the mats).

If the line is intact, then the problem is with the master. I would
suggest that you remove the gas tank before redoing the master.
I have always found it easer on early bugs to pop out the 
tank and work on all of the fittings, especially the one for
the right front brake, from above. The tank should take about
5 or 10 minutes to remove.

As far as replacing the wheel cylinders goes...my own personal
bias says if you are going to do a job do it right! Unless you
only have enough money for the master, get yourself the
new wheel cylinders, as well as shoes, and springs. This way
you have a new brake system.

Some people may recommend just buying rebuild kits for all of
your brake hydraulics. When rebuilding these parts, sometimes
they work.....sometimes they don't. One of the keys to 
"successful" brake hydraulic rebuilding is to make sure you
hone out all of the bores in the master and wheel cylinders.
This provides a nice, new surface for the seals to seat in. However,
you are also increasing the diameter of the bores, and the seals
are designed only to fit the standard, non honed, bores.

This gives a weaker seal, in that the surfaces of the seals are
positioned at a greater angle than intended, thereby reducing
their tollerance to the system pressures. Also, if the surfaces
get pitted again, the seals, already weakened by the increased
bore diameter, will have an even higher potential for failure.

I know that this view is possibly contrary to some people's
views regarding doing brakes. But, there are certain things
I don't like doing part-way...tires, shocks, brakes, oil
and filters, tune-up parts.

Ric



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