HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: collins@AuE.com (THEGR81)
Subject: Tank Voltages
Organization: /maddog/users/collins/.organization
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 01:08:00 GMT
Distribution: rec.aquaria
X-Posted-From: einstein-bb.aue.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: sol.ctr.columbia.edu




I recently measured the voltage in my fish
tank by placing the positive terminal of my
voltmeter in the water and grounding the other
terminal.  I measured a whopping 50 volts. When I
lift the power cords off the back of the tank the
voltage drops down to a nice 1-2 volts. 

Has anybody heard anything on this subject or know
where I might find some good reading material on it?

Thanks.

      _______
     /       |
====/        |==============================================================
|  /         |  Christopher A. Collins      Email: collins@aue.com         |
|  /         |  Design Engineer             Phone: (601) 932-7620          |
|  \ Jackson |  Advanced Microelectronics          extension 102           |
|   |  *     |  1080 River Oaks Drive         Fax: (601) 932-7621          |  
|   /        |  Suite A250                                                 |   
|  /         |  Jackson, MS  39208-8824                                    |
==/______    |==============================================================
        /    |
        \____|


--
=======================================================
   It's easier to get forgiveness for being wrong
   than forgiveness for being right.
=======================================================
socrates (a.k.a. Robert Miller)         ITD/AuE     
work (601)-325-8159                     1 Research BLVD.
@corona.itd.msstate.edu (130.18.8.160)  Starkville,Ms
                                        39759
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: aad@siemens.com (Anthony Datri)
Subject: Re: Advice about adding a Black Ghost
Organization: Siemens Corporate Research, Princeton (Plainsboro), NJ
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 23:43:16 GMT

>Do black ghosts do well in commnunity tanks?  I went to 4 different pet 
>stores and two said that they do well in community tanks and two said 
>they would eat everything except the angels and Head and Tail lights.

I can't speculate on how friendly they are, but be sure to give them a cozy
place to hide.
-- 

======================================================================8--<
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Subject: Re: Recommendation on cold water fish
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 22:14:18 GMT


>Dear Class Dinosauria,
>
>First of all, pleeeasssee insert newlines in your future postings.
>Thank you.  Second, when you make a statement like "I wouldn't blah
>blah blah..." it would be helpful to the readers if you can back it up
>with facts. Why wouldn't you put White Cloud Minnows in a 2.5 gallon

First of all, I don't particularly appreciate your tone of voice. (or fingers).
If you can't respond in a relatively pleasant manner, please don't respond at
all.  The editor I use automatically wraps the lines on MY screen... and when
I view it with XRN, it, again, wraps the text appropriately.  So, the text
I enter looks fine to me, and reads fine to me...

You're right, I should have written more...

I wouldn't because I am under the impression that white clouds are relatively
sensitive fish that require a good deal of oxygen and very clean water.  The
smaller a system is, the more difficult it is to maintain this type of 
environment especially for sensitive fish.  Goldfish, too, require special
conditions and are not at all suited for small environments.  Do you disagree
with me so far?  I'm not saying it isn't possible to keep them in a small
environment, but it is more difficult and the water quality must (should) be
watched very closely.

I choose labyrinth fish over non-lab fish because they have an additional
breathing mechanism, and are also more capable of handling (in general) poor
water conditions because they hail from mucky, acidic, stagnant waters, for the
most part.

I hope I have presented enough information for those of you who were confounded
by my previous reply.

Mike
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Subject: (F)(M) 55g tank for sale
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 14:31:04 GMT


Hey Everybody!

My wife came through for me--she gave me money for X-mas to buy a
75g oceanic set-up.  However, it's dependent on selling my 55g
set-up.  I live in Minneapolis, Minnesota--if anyone around here
is interested please e-mail me and I'll give you the details...

Thanks!

------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9654 alt.aquaria:6300
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F)Wal-mart fish....
Date: 21 Dec 92 22:15:18 GMT
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Geez! WAL-MART sells everything, huh?  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Subject: (M) Skilters on a 75g tank
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 15:30:44 GMT


Hi Everyone:

Some people have been very helpful with their advice but I just
thought I would get as many opinions as I can on this question!

I'm planning on switching to a 75g fish-only marine tank.  I was
going to run 2 Penguin 1140's with RFUGF and 2 Magnums for surface
agitation and filtration.  

I have a Skilter 250 and was planning on using that as well (and
possibly adding another).  Some people have indicated that 
there will not be adequate protein skimming with this set-up. 
Does anybody out there have a set-up similar to this?  I have
gotten the impression from a local fish store that protein
skimming isn't as important for a fish-only tank as it is for
an invertebrate tank.  From the net replies I've been getting
this doesn't seem to be the case...

Oh yeah--The Skilter I have running on my 55g marine tank (fish
only) rarely gets over 1/2 full in 3-4 weeks time.  Is this becasue
I have low protein levels or just because the Skilter can't remove
what's in there?

Thanks for your help...
------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: frogs
Date: 2 Jan 93 01:33:15 GMT
Reply-To: Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey)
X-Posting-Software: UniBoard 1.10a S/N 202921

Here is an information message. I left a message some time ago asking about
removing my african fromgs when they get too big, so that they don't eat my
other fish. Many people wrote back to me saying that they will not. Only one
person warned me about them eating my other fish. This person is right, but
I wanted a little more info. You see, I had frogs before (only 1 inch long)
and they ate 10 neons in a day. So I got rid of them, and then bought really
small ones. So I am safe for a while.
 What I would like to know, is, since they are African frogs, I was
wondering if they can be put with African Cichlids? One person wrote back
and said no, but I know if they get big, I think I can. My incle has african
frogs that are 4.5 inches long (yes, that is right, even though someone here
told me they only get 1 inch long). Thanks for any help.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: High nitrates [M][FILTRATION]
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:51:55 GMT

In article <1ha2jjINNnrl@hayaku.protocol.zycad.com> dominick@protocol.zycad.com writes:
>
>|> First, change as much of the water as you can.  Changing 20% only reduces the
>|> nitrate by 20%.  Change 99% if you can.
>|> 
>I hope you're kidding about the 99% change.  I wouldn't go any further than
>50% (and that's if you're really in trouble).  Changing 25% every other day
>for about a week will drop your nitrates significantly given that the water 
>you're adding has 0 ppm nitates. Once you're nitrates drop, 10% changes 
>weekly should keep it down. 
>
>I just didn't want any novices doing 99% water changes, and then wondering why
>all their fish/inverts were dead within a week do their biological filter
>bed going south :-).

I would disagree.  Although it is clearly an exageration to say 99%
water change, serial changes of smaller amounts does not make as much
of an impact on nitrate levels (serial dilutions as the series progresses.
 Do the math if you want...<G>).  If your goal is to keep nutrient levels
under control and you method is to do water changes, you will be more
successful doing monthly 40% water changes than weekly 10%.

However, if you want to keep a steady supply of the good stuff coming in,
then more frequent changes are beneficial.

Also, of course, if you are doing larger changes (>20%) then it is much,
more important to match salinity, temperature and pH so as not to cause
a huge fluctuation in the tank.
 
There was a very good article on this sometime last year in AFM.  I 
don't remember when (it may have even been the year before), but the
article dealt with dilution effects on medications and nutrient levels
with various water changing strategies.  It's all pretty basic math,
but he made it very clear.

Cheers,
Paul "Surgery final in 2 hours" Prior




-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student - Surgery Rotation		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Ramirez Dwarf Cichlid Questions
Date: 30 Dec 92 19:55:01 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <1992Dec30.150846.27191@news.clarkson.edu> russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell) writes:
>From article <1992Dec29.165935.12758@ttsi.lonestar.org>, by hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop):
>> I have recently become interested in Cichlidae, specifically the Ramirez Dwarf
>> Apistogramma ramirezi as listed in my Simon & Schuster's Guide to Freshwater and 
>> Marine Aquarium Fishes. In Barron's it lists this fish as
>> Ramirez's cichlid, Ram or butterfly cichlid, Papiliochromis ramirezi.
>
>> Which is true name? Or are there several varities of this type of cichlid?
>
>According to Dr. Loiselle's _The_Cichlid_Aquarium_ (1985) the nam is,
>Papliochromis ramirezi.
>

Well I have found some of these "ramirezi" at a local store, Aqua-Pets
in Dallas. The fish-person said these were "Blue Rams" and on the
tanks they were listed as Ramirez, so I guess that's that.

Thanks for the response's, I'm going by tonight to pick up 2 or 3. 
I'll post the results after I've had them awhile.

BTW - any Dallas-ites reading this I was impressed by the quality and
selection of the fish and supplies in Aqua-Pets. It is at Coit and Spring
Valley.

Happy New Year.

Go Blue in the Rose Bowl!!

+--------------------------------------+
|Huett Bishop                          |
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|
|Dallas, TX                            |
|                                      |
|Go Cowboys!!                          |
|                                      |
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |
+--------------------------------------+
From: "jeffrey silverstein" <jeffrey.silverstein@execnet.com>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: reverse osmosis
Date: 28 Dec 92 03:35:09 EST
Reply-To: "jeffrey silverstein" <jeffrey.silverstein@execnet.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Executive Networks Information


Does anyone have specific suggestions/expreiences with reverse osmosis
units that would suggest that some are superior to others?  Specifc
information would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jeffrey.Silverstein@execnet.com

Jeff Silverstein
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #11649  A waist is a terrible thing to find!
--
Executive Network Information System  (914) 667-4567
International ILink Host
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: sdebol@htlv.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Organization: University of Minnesota
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 18:25:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec23.134902.27650@cbfsb.cb.att.com> jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (james.j.dutton) writes:
>In article <1992Dec19.055922.27580@news2.cis.umn.edu> sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson)) writes:
>>>
>>>>Why, why its unnatural. I suggest if you don't want to stress the fish
>>>>stay away from chlorox.
>>>
>>Just to be obnoxious here folks...  Bleach (or hypochlorous acid)
>>is hardly "unnatural"--whatever that means.  A number of different
>>organisms (including humans...) have cells which generate HOCl
>>as an antimicrobial agent--is that "natural" enough for you?
> 
>NO.
>
>OK everybody use bleach. I apologize. I'm ludicrous.
>If I kept an open mind in 25 years of keeping fish I wouldn't have any
>live ones. I've learned something.
> 
I wasn't commenting on the use of bleach in a fishtank--one
way or the other.  I was simply responding to the statement
of bleach being "unnatural".

------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bbs.mirage@tsoft.net (Jerry Lee)
Subject: FAQ post request
Organization: The TSoft BBS and Public Access Unix, +1 415 969 8238
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 19:34:07 GMT

Could someone send me the FAQ for this forum or post it publicly? 
My address is jele@eis.calstate.edu

one more question.. What's the deal with the Pl*co stuff.. why is it such 
a bad word?  eheh =)  Just wondering.. All flames returned to sender.

Computer and Video Imaging (Animation included) major at
Cogswell Polytechnical College.
EMAIL: jele@eis.calstate.edu
Internet: bbs.mirage@tsoft.sf-bay.org
UUCP    : ...apple!tsoft!bbs.mirage
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9771 sci.aquaria:1819 alt.aquaria:6362
From: dl@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: [m] latin names required
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 06:45:13 GMT
Reply-To: dl@cerianthus.pinetree.org
Followup-To: poster
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario


 Could someone e-mail the latin names for "bristle worms" and "mantis shrimp"
to me please?

 Thanks in advance.

-pdc

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: davids@shell.portal.com (David - Schenfeld)
Subject: Help with mystery disease
Organization: Portal Communications Company
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 01:38:09 GMT

Hello, 

This is my first posting here.  I have a problem, hopefully someone can help.

30 gallon fresh water tank
PH 6.5
Temp 82
Soft Water
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrate 0ppm

1 Discus
1 Cory
1 Pleco
2 Pearl Gouramis
1 Honey Gourami

Female pearl has white spots approx .25-.5 cm in size on tail and on top fin
between the body and the fin.  Some also scattered on the body, they seem
to be spreading.

None of the fish show other signs of being ill, other than increased shyness
and fear.

Discus chases pearls often.  Could it possibly be a result of biting?

Any suggestions or opinions welcome :-)

Thank you.
-David Schenfeld
davids@shell.portal.com or dave@phantom.com


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: seove@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (ERIC OVERTON)
Subject: Care for Red Devils?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: 23 Dec 1992 11:40 EDT  


How do you care for Red Devils?  Is the Red Devil and
the Frontosa Cichlid the same fish?

Thanks.

Eric
From: dsavard@col.hp.com (Don Savard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] Upgrading a 10 gal. to 30-40 gal. (Long Post)
Date: 22 Dec 1992 00:00:53 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: fajita19.cs.itc.hp.com

Hi fellow aquarists :-)

As the header states, I'm thinking of upgrading my 10 gal freshwater to a 
30-40 gal fresh. After the larger tank is set-up, established and occupied
by the 10's current residents, I'm going to try to keep the 10 as a hospital
tank for quarantine purposes until the larger tank is fully occupied 
(but not overcrowded).

A little history :

The 10 has been running since the first week of September. It's current
happy residents are 6 White Clouds, 2 Green Cories, & a male Betta. Plants 
include Red & Green Ludwigia, Elodea Densas, and Hornwort. The plants are 
happy too, Elodeas are sprouting big-time, Ludwigias are slowly growing, and 
the Hornwort's growing like dandelions. It's filtered with a Whisper 1 filter
which I plan to transfer to the larger tank.

Here's the plan:

The fish place I frequent will sell me the tank, I'll get a 10-15% discount
on the add-ons, and a fish club membership that entitles me to a 10-15%
discount on fish for a year. (Sounds like it could be a good deal).

I plan on getting a small sponge filter for the 10 gal, which will stay as 
the primary filter for the hospital tank. I'll be running the 2 filters for a
couple of weeks to establish the sponge filter before taking the Whisper out
and into the new tank. I'll also be taking out 80% of the gravel in the 10 &
adding it to the gravel in the larger tank. How long would it take to cycle the
sponge filter and the new tank this way? Anyone try this before? Complications?
Better ideas? Post or e-mail me directly (dsavard@cs.its.hp.com), whichever is
convenient. I'll try to summarize responses.

Thanks in advance for the advice.


Don
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] a few questions...
Date: 21 Dec 1992 17:32:56 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

I agree with what Pete has stated in that the mechanical filter should be
first.  I would like to add that many multi stage filters sold today have (1)
mechanical stages that allow some solids to pass through and (2) bio filters
that catch some of the solids passed by the mechanical stage.  Because of
this you will need to clean both the machanical and the bio stages of these
filters.  

To some extent you can conclude that many multi stage filters are a waste
of time and money.  If both/all stages act as mechanical-bio filters then
why bother with different types of media for the bio section.  You may as
well just toss in another sponge and, as pointed out by Pete, alternate 
cleaning them.  In general if any mechanical media is followed by a
sponge just forget the mechanical media and let the sponge do the job
of both since it will in any case.  This in fact may be a preferable setup
in that sponge will not be allowed to collect small amounts of solids over
a long period of time and then drop the pH when you least suspect it (after
all it looks clean, is not blocked. and is protected by that mechanical
filter).

If you use bio media (method) that will not trap/collect solids you will 
never have to clean it.  In this case the multi stage concept works and
the advantage is that you never have to disrupt the bacteria in the bio
stage.

(and backing off just a bit)
Some filters such as good trickle filters fall somewhat short of ideal
but are quite usable with infrequent bio media cleaning.  

Chemical filtration aimed at products that are normaly handled by the
bio filter may be disruptive to the bio filter.  

pete@introl.com (Pete Ikusz) writes:
>...
> They also contend that the noodles were put at the lowest level to act as a
> coarse mechanical filtering stage. However, they act more as a bio filtering stage.
> And that bio filtering should be done after mechanical filtering has been
> done. (IE: there is no reason to put them there. It only makes cleaning
> more difficult.)
> 
> If I go by what I see, then their methodology looks 100% correct, at least all
> their fish seem happy. (I have seen 10 out of the 60 different tanks that they
> care for.)
> 
> Any netters have different or similar opinions?
> 
> -Pete
> -- 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Pete Ikusz	Introl Corporation	pete@introl.com
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bbs.mirage@tsoft.net (Jerry Lee)
Subject: Advice about adding a Black Ghost
Organization: The TSoft BBS and Public Access Unix, +1 415 969 8238
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 01:02:14 GMT

Do black ghosts do well in commnunity tanks?  I went to 4 different pet 
stores and two said that they do well in community tanks and two said 
they would eat everything except the angels and Head and Tail lights.

I have 6 neons, 1 black shark, 2 glass fish, 2 bandit cats, 2 angels, 2 
female mollies, 1 khuli loach, and 1 large claw crab.

All of these are in a 36 gallon tank with 1 powerhead and a regular 
bubble uplift and an external Metaframe filter (do they still make 
these!?).

Also.. Do you guys think crab meat or the yellow stuff from crabs is too 
fattening for tropicals? 

Computer and Video Imaging (Animation included) major at
Cogswell Polytechnical College.
EMAIL: jele@eis.calstate.edu
Internet: bbs.mirage@tsoft.sf-bay.org
UUCP    : ...apple!tsoft!bbs.mirage
From: s0k5099@zeus.tamu.edu (KHAN, SHAHRIAR)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Complete beginner has dying fish
Date: 27 Dec 1992 01:00 CST
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: zeus.tamu.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

	Almost all  my fish are dying from a furry white growth all over their
bodies. I am clueless.

-Lost.
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Goldfish Resistant Plants - Live [F]
Keywords: Eat, eat, eat ...
Date: 22 Dec 92 21:13:41 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1992Dec22.163141.8402@ultb.isc.rit.edu> mdh0957@ultb.isc.rit.edu (M.D. Haupert) writes:

-->Has anyone found a plant that fancy goldfish won't strip down?  I've
-->got about 6 medium to large ( 6" max ) ryokin and orlanda that are
-->WELL fed, yet eat anything not bolted down.  Any sugestions?  They
-->absolutely love sword plants and hygrophilia.
-->mdmh von rit ( reality is what you make it )

Try Elodea canadiensis and related plants. They have fairly tough
leaves.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Help with mystery disease
Date: 29 Dec 1992 18:17:41 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

That fish is probably the most stressed out, stressed out=disease.
Ich, Velvet, Fungus?

Ich looks like grains of salt, but very fine.  Velvet has a flat
appearance, sort of greyish, & spreads.  Fungus usually, but not
always, appears more wooly & swollen.  Check with a reputable
local fish dealer about medications.  

All the discus I've seen, were usually kept species tanks.  Dunno
about the mix you've got.

[Howard's Wife Deb]
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria