Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Snowboarding notes and tune-up questions...
From: hugh@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Hugh Grierson)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 00:20:16 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand
Keywords: edges, waxing

[rec.sport.snowboarding deleted from Newsgroups: header
 as it is not a valid Usenet group]

In article <1992Nov12.174812.8175@seas.gwu.edu> mercier@seas.gwu.edu (Charles Mercier) writes:
>SANDPAPER?!?!?!?!?   NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO-NO!!!  (ow... the pain!!!)
>Charlie's Primary waxing Law:  Sandpaper is BAD!!! (not good.) 
>						{i just made that}

Sandpaper can be used quite effectively for removing excess P-tex, polishing edges,
and base structuring.  All of these things are good, hence I conclude that
sandpaper is good.

>1) Start with the edges: 
>	Start with the edges so that if 'ya scuff the board it'll be easy
>	to fix later.  File the edges at the angles prefered (generic = 90deg.)
>	when you file, go down the board, not up.

Also, you would normally do the base edge first (to make sure that the base is
perfectly flat) , followed by the side, then a light run over the base again.
Detune the tip and tail to taste (at a minimum find the contact point where
the tip/tail starts to rise off the ground, then round off the edge from there).
Finally debur using a stone.  You can use sandpaper for polishing or detuning, but
use a reasonably fine grain (say >300).

>2) Ptex:
>	The trick is to melt the crap without burinig any of it. When ptex 
>	lights, parts of it will start to burn.  It's not really bad,
>	but when it carbonizes it turns black.  So 'till ya get good, all 

Keep the candle very close to the base.  This dissipates some heat into the
base and will help you maintain a small clean blue flame.  A metal scraper
makes a good heat sink when you're looking for the next scratch to fill, and
can also be used for removing any carbon which does accumulate on the candle.

Before waxing you'll have to take down any excess P-tex.  Wait for it to cool,
then use a metal scraper, a body file (vicious but effective) or emery paper
wrapped around a file (try starting with 100 grit, then finish with something
finer).

If you're serious then you can structure your base with sandpaper (after Ptex,
before wax).  Around 100 for very wet snow, 240 for dry, in between for in between.
A couple of passes with the paper wrapped around a file or solid scraper - not too
much or too hard or you'll end up with a concave base and have to file the edges a
little more afterwards.  Finish off with some Swix fibertex or similar to clean
the loose fibers and leave a clean structure.  Note that a stone grinder will give
better results than this, but still its not bad for a home job.

>	Cowabunga Dude,

Uh, yeah.  I must be getting old :-)

-- 
Hugh Grierson          Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand - Software Development Centre
hugh@nezsdc.icl.co.nz                Speaking for myself only.  See figure 1.
    Quote of the decade: "We're not just talking about unpopulated areas
     of the Southern Hemisphere anymore" [Pres. Bush, on the Ozone hole]
From: khe@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Keith Erskine)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 22:37:54 GMT
Subject: Re: more on Dynastar Verticals: popular skis!
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA