HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria


Which iron supplement and how much do you use John?  I used to have Caulerpa
and it all died.  It's symptoms were the same as described in this base note.
I tried an iron supplement but was probably too timid with it.  I was afraid
it would cause problems for the other inhabitants in the tank, especially
invertebrates.  I now have one candy shrimp, one strawberry crab, a percula
clown, and three blue tangs.  I would like to have some macro algae in the 
tank.  Unfortunately I think the Tangs would do major damage to them.  If,
however I get enough algae it might be able to keep ahead of the fish.  Does
this sound stupid?  If so, I'll forget about it.

Sylvia
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: CITES fish <F>
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 22:48:13 GMT

In article <1992Oct25.020759.1712@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>In article <1992Oct25.002415.2813@cis.uab.edu> sloan@cis.uab.edu (Kenneth Sloan) writes:
>>it doesn't say what to do with your >over-6" individuals. 
>
>Let them grow to their full size and in 10-15 years you can start
>harvesting caviar from them, if there are any females.  They are also
>quite delicious if properly smoked.
>-- 
>Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path


  Yes, Oleg, but where can you find a rolling paper large enough
to roll one in? Sorry, but after your "fresh or salt water mouse"
post, I couldn't stop myself!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mriehle@nyx.cs.du.edu (Michael Riehle)
Subject: Re: What type of cichlid?
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 01:48:12 GMT


Andrew,

   _Pseudotropheus acci_ is a mouthbrooding mbuna.  My male is around 6",
females around 5".  The yellow in the fins tends to be more intense when
they are breeding.  The blue in the body should be quite intense in a
healthy specimen.

   Water quality: pH 7.8 - 8.0+, temperature 78-80 degrees.

   A book on cichlids from Lake Malawi would be most helpful to you.  Ad
Koning's _Cichlid Fishes of Lake Malawi_ comes to mind, but it's
expensive; $90 plus.

- mcr@unison.com

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel)
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish When On Vacation
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 06:01:41 GMT

harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold) writes:

>In article <1992Nov11.051021.12489@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel) writes:
>>	There is an excellant article in this months Freshwater and Marine
>>Aquarium magazine concerning vacations.  Basically, fish are very hardy and
>>can survive just fine WITHOUT food for a few weeks.  Actually the article 
>>indicates that there is a large amount of available food in a well established
>>aquarium anyway. <...> 
> 
>Thought I'd mention that sometimes the "available food" takes the form
>of other fish  :-(.  Each time I've left my Africans for more then
>a few days and the feeder has broken, I've ended up with fewer fish
>on my return... I still believe that they _could_ have gone
>a week without food:  unfortunately, they chose another option.

No argument here.  I suggest reading this article since in addition to the
suggestions I posted, it also mentions that you might want to separate some 
fish if possible :-> (among other valuable suggestions - check it out)  You
may want to consider separation even if you buy a feeder in case of failure.
(it has been known to happen :-()
Kurt
nagel@fido.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: [M] Caulerpa Problems
Keywords: Caulerpa Algae
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:43:33 GMT

In article <2AF8378F.26643@news.service.uci.edu> jward@hydra.acs.uci.edu (John Ward) writes:
>Your fish or inverts may be molesting your algae.

	What??? I gotton rid of all my macro algae because they molest my
inverts.  Once the caulerpa put its root or runner or whatever you want
to call them on a piece of hard coral, chances are, you're going to
get a dead spot.  Or they get on a polyp rock and root theyselves on the
rock and lift the whole colony off the rock.  Real pest.

-Anthony

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: killing with kindness
Followup-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Keywords: who was original poster
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:22:31 GMT

Please help!
I had sent a response to the original poster
of the article killing with kindness?  He replied
to me via email, but his reply to me was lost.
If the original author reads this or is someone 
else still has the post could they give me his
email address.  Thanks


David Clay Patton                                  patton@phy.uab.edu
Physics Department
University of Alabama at Birmingham
Birmingham, Al 35294




Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: |F| Chalky water due to something! Help!
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 16:49:07 GMT

assana (assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM) wrote:
: Hi All. I'm so deparate for your help!
: 
: Here's the situation:
: 
: About a 5 weeks ago, I got, what I thought to be, a bacteria bloom. 
: The water is chalky/cloudy/hazey/kind'a foggy.

: fishstores told me my problem was excessive phosphate in the water, and 
: that it won't hurt the fish
: 
: The fish didn't seem to mind it till today. Just now, I had a fatality among 
: the guppies: he was fine till all of a sudden dropped dead! And the rest of 
: them don't look too happy.

: p.s. If it helps, I have a bunch of cardinal tetras, 3 mono, 2 clown loaches,
: 	  a sword tail a few guppies.

I would guess, given that you have excessive phosphates, that it is
an algae bloom, rather than bacteria.  Especially since you indicate
that the cloudiness corresponds to the amount of light the tank has
gotten.  I would also guess that it has nothing to do with your
guppy's death.  This is a bit of a generalization, but cardinal
tetras are generally more delicate than guppies ('though fancy
guppies aren't all that hardy) - if the problem was your water
conditions, I'd expect to see the c. tetras suffering first.  I'd
guess that your guppy died of some other cause.  How's that for
comforting? :-)

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: jj@alice.att.com (jj, curmudgeon and all-around grouch)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Killing with Kindness
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:41:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.24157
Reply-To: jj@alice.UUCP (jj, curmudgeon and all-around grouch)
Organization: NJ State Home for Bewildered Terminals

In article <1992Nov10.183554.12361@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>In <1992Nov10.143420.120703@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>
>-->I have a 110 gallon freshwater tropical tank and have been doing
>-->20% water changes every week.  Someone told me that I should stop
>-->immeditately as I was overdoing it and could harm the fish.  Any tips?
>
>That's utter nonsense. I do 30% changes a week on a 100g (at least I
>try to, I've been lazy lately).
I've got to agree.

I do a 72 gallon/day change on my 125 (said change is automated), a
48 gallon/day change on my 30L with a breeding pair of discus, and
a 24 gallon/day change on my 20L holding tank.

I have non-chlorinated well water of a consistancy that I can add to
my tanks without treatment, fortunately.
-- 
Extremism *Copyright alice!jj 1992, all rights reserved, except transmission
   in the    *by USENET and like facilities granted.      Said permission is
  defense of     *granted only for complete copies that include this notice.
 liberty is no vice.  *Use on pay-for-read services specifically disallowed.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Subject: (m) help hair algea!?!?!
Reply-To: "larry wheatley" <larry.wheatley@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 8 Nov 92 20:07:08 EST

Hi All,
        Well I was happy when me tank finished cycling about a week
ago, but now I have this HUGE HAIR ALGEA(green) problem.
It is on everything, everwhere and everone.

Will this ugly green stuff die off one day or will I have to get a
tang or two to keep it in line?

Will it run out of what it feeds on?
I have the biggest problem on top near the MH 175's my photoperiod
is 1 hour of 03 actinics and then 10 hours of MH and 2 other full 
spectrum bulds.

Need help soon as some has grown to about 10".
looks bad and is choking the little rock anemones that are the 
only thinks I have right now.

HELP HELP HELP?
I knew I cursed myself when I posted on Halloween....Damn it!
Thanx

Larry Wheatley
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #4132  I tried the rest but bought the best!!!!
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Fish still sick
Date: 12 Nov 92 03:30:27 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota


First let me thank everyone who has sent me E-mail trying to help
with my sick fish.  I posted about two weeks ago describing a
butterfly that I thought had ich.  He had (has) three spots--one
on his tail fin and one on each tip of his pectoral fins.  I fed
medicated flakes for 10 days (the max. recommended dose) and things
never changed.  A few days ago he had about three more spots and
I thought it was the beginning of an "outbreak".  I held off 
medicating the tank and the next day there were only the three
original spots again.  It's been that way for the last few days
now.  

One person in particular has e-mailed me a couple of times and
thinks the problem is viral as opposed to parasitic--mainly because
the infection has not really progressed to covering the fish (as
well as the other fish in the tank) over this period of time.  I
haven't really heard much about viral diseases in fish and am
curious about them.  Anyway, I have to go to Chicago this weekend
so I hate to medicate the tank before I leave.  Any more advice
or ideas out there?  The fish is still acting fine and eating
great.

One other miscellaneous point.  This disease got me to wondering
about the ubiquity of parasites, etc.  After all these are marine
fish swimming in fresh water that has had a sea mix added to it.
What is the source of the parasites, etc.  Are they ultimately
brought in during the capture of the fish and then propagated in
store tanks?  I guess that would make the most sense.  Just
wondering...

Thanks again for your help.

------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Oceanic tanks?  ID, please..
Date: 6 Nov 92 16:03:30 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <1992Nov5.213713.11541@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>> I like the quality of the Oceanic tank and hoods. They seemed like they used
>>better material and workmanship on their tanks and stands.
>
>
>Per chance, could you give me an close estimate of how thick the glass is?
>
>I mean, I don't have a Cheezy Brand tanks to sit next to my tank to compare...:)
>                                      
>
>				          -Matt

I would guess 3/16" to 3/8" or 4.76mm to 7.78mm and mine has an Oceanic Logo on the
bottom right (facing the tank) corner.


+--------------------------------------+
|Huett Bishop                          |
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|
|Dallas, TX                            |
|                                      |
|Go Cowboys!!                          |
|                                      |
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |
+--------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: abilenko@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Arkady Bilenko)
Subject: Re: Guppies
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:01:35 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.235535.19396@cs.ucla.edu> frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
>idbremne (idbremne@thunder.LakeheadU.Ca) wrote:
>: I am interrested in collecting recipies for making guppies
>: 
>: BREED LIKE THERE IS NO TOMORROW!!!!!!!
>
>That's easy - feed them good food, and make sure there are
>places for the fish to hide.  The A1-best food that I have
>encountered for making fish breed is <African> red worms.
>They are smaller cousins of the more familiar earthworms.
>You'd have to break them up for guppies, but a big breeding
>female should be able to handle 1/4 worm.  I would guess
>that mosquito larvae would also make your guppies sing.
>Oh, and keep the water clean.  They like that.  Also, you
>can try newly hatched brine shimp.  Both adults and fry
>would dig that.
>Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier

Up until recently, I had a single 30G tank with yellow-snakeskin guppies, which have successfully spawned (how couldn't they?) several times.   However, even
though my tank has a fare amount of driftwood & plants, most fry still fell
victims to their parents.  I bought one of those breeding traps which so many
authors I have read are against because they make the mother nervous.  However, that's true only for the first time.  
The first time I put a ready-to-give-birth female in that trap, she really 
freaked and started thrashing around.  First couple of days, she wouldn't
accept food, but ate quite readily after giving birth.  Forseeing that, I put
a snail on the bottom of the trap before putting the female in there, so that
the food wouldn't rot.  The same thing pretty much happened to all of my female
guppies the first time they experienced "the trap." 
The second time, though, they behaved much better (no trashing and accepting 
food right away).  So, a piece of advice: the first time you use a trap, put
the female in there several days before birth so that she may get used to it.
Hope this helps.
	Arkady
P.S.  BTW, recently I aquired a 10G tank where my females deliver now.  Lots
of artificial plants help most of the fry survive.
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING! THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING!!!!!
Date: 6 Nov 92 21:26:15 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <7965@transfer.stratus.com> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>
>To replenish the now vacated 1 gallon hex, I bought a pair of small Tiger  
>Barbs. I may later move them to the 29 gallon tank but I have heard that they  
>are agressive little guys. Any comments on that?
>


Yes. Don't. The Tigers will de-fin your betta in a matter of minutes! In my old
tank setup my male looked like a plucked chicken after the barbs got him.
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Friday, 6 Nov 1992 19:36:36 EST
From: <APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) prolific Kribensis's .. need advice

In article <HEMSTREE.92Nov5123830@lamar.lamar.acns.colostate.edu>,
hemstree@lamar.acns.colostate.edu (Charles Hemstreet) says:
>
>I have two vats (18 gal. rubbermaid rough totes) of 100 Kribensis
>each.  They are about six weeks old and I am using the vats to size
>them for sale.  I expect I will get another couple of vats and
>
>BTW: all these fish + two parents were in a 10 gallon tank.  As soon
>as I moved the fry, the parents started their mating ritual again and
>I expect to have a new batch of fry within a couple of weeks.
>
** Congratulations on successful cichlid breeding.  Before you go
investing a lot of $$ and time in raising Kribensis, I'd consult
your local fish stores concerning how many of them they might be
willing to purchase and at what price.  These fish are commercially
produced on an immense scale, and so might be difficult to get rid
of in quantity.  You might be better off applying your cichlid raising
efforts to something more exotic.  Good luck!!
Alex Parker (aparker@maine.maine.edu)
From: bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Molting of a Blue Crayfish.
Date: 13 Nov 92 12:36:44 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

My lobster (crayfish) seems to have molted...except it looked like he shedded his big claws.  Is this normal?
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Suggestions for New Life Forms?
Date: 10 Nov 92 17:36:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <27328@oasys.dt.navy.mil> kilpat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Andrew Kilpatrick) writes:
>I currently have a 20H tank with a pleco some neon and
>longfin tetras, two cory cats and some mollies in it.
>I have had a couple of different plants in it but they
>didn't make it ( problem I am not to worried about,
>probably light).
>
>Anyway, what I am interested in is putting something
>interesting, different, not a fish in my tank.  I have
>tried an underwater frog.  But he "went away".  Specu-
>lation is either he was eaten by the Striped Rapheal
>Catfish I had at the time or another fish, or he broke
>out.
>
>ANY suggestions would be appreciated.


I personally like clown and kuhli loaches.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8752 alt.aquaria:5737
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: new alt.cichlid newsgroup
Summary: Creating another aquaria group
Keywords: new group, cichlid
Date: 9 Nov 92 14:18:13 GMT
Reply-To: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.


In article 15825@vax5.cit.cornell.edu, awhj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Fredericks) writes:
>In article <92311.220427APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>,
>APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU writes: 
>> Howdy fish folks! I've recently posted a suggestion on alt.config
>> there be established a cichlid-specific newsgroup alt.cichlid, for
>> the purpose of hobby, icthyological, and conservation discussion
>> and interaction.  If you'd like to see such a group established, you
>> could post your feelings on alt.config.  Thanks,
>> Alex Parker (aparker@maine.maine.edu)
>
>   While I hate to see good newsgroups turn into newsgroups about newsgroups,
>I'll post once anyway.  I see no advantage of adding a new cichlid group.  I
>usually read all cichlid-related articles in the *.aquaria groups and I find
>it works quite well the way it is.  It seems that three groups is enough.
>I vote we quit talking about newsgroups and resume the discussions on fish,
>aquariums, plants, technology, inverts, etc.
>
>   - Tom Fredericks


Same here, if you really want to talk about cichlid-related stuff exclusively,
why not maintain a CICHLID EMAIL LIST and people than are interested can
subscribe to it.... much like the killifish email list. I HATE to see a
news group for a particular species, fresh/saltwater, etc....


	-- KC Wong
From: kwalker@optima.UUCP (Kenneth Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish When On Vacation
Date: 11 Nov 92 22:19:49 GMT

If you buy a automatic fish feeder, it is best to get one that feeds
premeasured amounts of food. The cheap ones that release "some amount
of food" twice a day are bad! I use Double "A" Brand that I mail ordered
from Daleco. They contain 14 feedings and can be set for 1 to 4 feedings
per day. I have 4 of them and they have always worked well.

  Ken Walker  kwalker@cs.arizona.edu   uunet!arizona!kwalker
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Algae Control
Date: 11 Nov 92 03:05:19 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

vpo@tos50.teradata.com () writes:
>leave my 40watt Vitalite on over nite to keep the real plants >happy.

Don't leave the light on all day and you will have less or no algae.
The "real" plants don't need more than 10-11 hrs of light if they are
tropical and 12-14 hrs if they are from temperate zones and rely on the
longer day to tell them that it's summer.

>like Otocinclus and bush-nose/bristle-nose pleco. What are the
>common names for these guys?

Those are the common names.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
From: rbrown@bbn.com (Ralph Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Avoiding loss of siphon in U tubes
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:43:26 GMT
Reply-To: rbrown@bbn.com
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: archive.bbn.com

A while ago someone asked about getting rid of air bubbles in U tubes -
his was from his house to his garage! I have a similar problem although
in a much smaller tube (tank to prefilter box).

The issue is that very small bubbles tend to collect in the top of the
tube and eventually add up to enough to break the siphon.

To fix this, I ran a piece of airline up inside the U tube to the top,
the other end I lead down to my filter and put a check valve on it.
Then I started a siphon in the airline. What happens is that the airline
fills with water, drawing off a small part of the flow in the U tube.
When bubbles start to form, they are also picked up by the airline, but
because there's a few feet of water in the tube and the bore of the tube
is so small, it doesn't break the airline siphon. The air is swept down
and out. The more head you've got the better, but it works fine with
4' (tank top to sump bottom). You need at least 2 to overcome the
resistance of the check valve.

To avoid draining the U tube when the tank flow is shut off you need
a valve or something to stop the airline flow. I just fold the airline
to crimp it and hold it shut with a 2" piece of 1/2" pvc pipe - just
stick the crimped tube into the pipe.

The actual constuction is slightly more complex to ensure that the
airline stays in place. I drilled the bottom of the U tube and ran the
airline through it. You could also drill the top of the U tube and
cement an airline connector in place (I did the first time). The problem
is that it's pretty thin stock and easily cracked, also it's a joint at
a low pressure point which will zap the siphon if it leaks.

Ralph
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: FISH DISEASE
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:25:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: transfer.1dme05INNgge
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com

In article <9211091732.AA11135@emoryu1.cc.emory.edu> wparson@unix.cc.emory.edu  
(William A. Parsons) writes:
> Hey Everybody,
> 	I'm having problems with my 55 gallon freshwater tank and I was
> wondering if anyone might have some helpful info.
> 	Here is the problem:

<<<<<<<<<<<<< STUFF DELETED >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

> Please email the response to me rather than to the newsgroup.

I would like to see the responses to this. It sounds interesting. Any chance of  
this????
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria