HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Radiant barrier roof decking
Date: 21 Aug 92 19:35:43 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: OSF Research Institute

In article <2283@devnull.mpd.tandem.com> jeffj@falcon.mpd.tandem.com (Jeff Jones) writes:

   I have heard that radiant barrier roof decking (e.g. Kool-ply) does a good
   job of lowering the temperature of the attic spaces below it.  I recently
   had a builder warn me that although it will reduce heat in the attic, it
   raises the temperature of the roofing above it and may significantly reduce
   shingle life.  Does anyone know if this is true?

Yes, it seems to be the consensus that roof shingles should be kept as
cool as possible, ideally by venting the roof from underneath.  But
certainly you should never put any kind of insulation directly below
the roof without leaving some air space.  There are some plastic
`troughs' made for installation between the roof and insulation for
precisely this purpose.

	-s
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Subject: Re: Shooting wild pigs
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 00:35:35 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.205854.13580@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> 21329KAD@MSU (Kim Dyer) writes:
>>>> will assure you that if you discharge a firearm in order to shoot the
>>>> pig he will arrest you.
>
><<<long and detailed description of  Fish and Game hunting regulations
>deleted for brevitity>>>
>
>I suspect that the problem the original poster would have with the law
>isn't with the FIsh and Game people, but rather with the local government
>which probably has laws against discharging a firearm within city
>limits.  

The original poster specifically stated 'in the unincorporated county'
and county sheriff.  They don't live in the city ... they are in the county.

>Perhaps if he went after the beastie with a bow (not something
>*I* would want to do) he would be within the law.

I'd rather not try bow hunting a pig ... It does work, but you have
to be good at it (and good at fast re-nocking of arrows!)  
-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
From: susanw@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Susan Wechsler)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 23:23:40 GMT
Subject: Need Info on Compact Fluorescents
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I am looking to eventually replace my incandescent bulbs with compact
fluorescents.  But, I do not care for the typically 'stark' light one
gets from fluorescent light.  I am looking for information comparing
compact fluorescents available from the various vendors, and rating them
according to how well they duplicate the color and warmth of 
incandescent bulbs.  I welcome information from personal experience and
experimentation, as well as any pointers to an existing FAQ string on
the subject.  I remember seeing a fairly lengthy discussion of this awhile
back, but unfortunately I didn't archive it since it didn't seem relevant
at the time.  Thanks for any help I can get.

--Susan
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:14:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Flourescent bulbs in standard fixtures
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I can't recommend any off-brands, but the OSRAM units are comparable
to the GEs in price.  IMHO they have a nice color, and warm up
a little quicker.  I also have a couple of the GE 7 watt bulbs in
my bathroom.  They have the sole advantage of fitting in my
bathroom light fixture (though it's a very tight fit).  Most people
would find the 14W light a bit too dim, though I prefer not to
take too close a look at my face in the morning.  :-)

Other CFs:  National/Panasonic.  The 1991 versions use a conventional
starter and magnetic ballast.  They are literally a conventional
fluorescent design in a smaller package.  Note that they generate a
lot of heat.  OTOH, the glass capsule looks just good enough to replace
a decorative bulb.  I don't know if they've changed.

Lights of America makes CF (oops; Compact Fluorescent) units, though I
have no first hand experience with them.  Word on the net has been
favorable.

Given my druthers, I'll use OSRAM where they fit, and for applications
where you can take advantage of the CF nature.  You should not turn them
on and off quickly, so they aren't ideal for a closet that gets used
for seconds.  OTOH, they would be ideal for that stairwell light that
requires a 20' ladder to replace the bulb.  (Restrictions on CFs are
pretty much across the board; I *suspect* the situation is worse for
the magnetic balast units and better for the electronic units such
as GE and OSRAM.  Don't know for sure.)

Pete Brooks
From: mcnamara@vixvax.mgi.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Installing hardwood floors
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:28:44 CDT
Organization: Management Graphics, Inc.

	Due to the allergies of my infant daughter (eczema and asthma) I
am planning to have hardwood floors installed in my house.  Since the
existing carpeting is laid over a plywood base, I assume that the installers
will have to alter that base (secure, level, etc.).  Is there a right and
a wrong way to do this?  Another question is whether or not anyone has
successfully installed used flooring.  I understand that used flooring needs
to be sanded down to remove the finish (and even the edges).  Will this
put more junk in the air (from the used finish) than going with new flooring?
Finally, has anyone used Livos products for finishing flooring?  How did
it work, and what kind of wood was it used on?

						Curt

****************************************************************************
Curt McNamara	(mcnamara@mgi.com)	|"The present would be full of all
Mgmt. Graphics, Inc.			|possible futures, if the past had
1401 E. 79th St.			|not already projected a pattern
Mpls., MN    55425			|upon it."  Andre Gide
****************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: toddi@mav.com (Todd Inch)
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Organization: Maverick International Inc.
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 19:41:08 GMT

In article <1992Aug15.204131.1158@henson.cc.wwu.edu>
n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio) writes:
>Followups directed to talk.politics.guns, as the topic demands.

[Doesn't appear to exist, maybe just our site?]

>>Lastly, if someone broke into my home I would shoot to kill.  This is
>>my home you are speaking of and no one has a right to enter it unless
>>I invite them.  I'm not assuming anything.  If they choose to breakin
>>obiviously they KNOW they are not welcome and are going to do something
>>illegal.

Please put a sign on your front door stating "Trespassers will be
Shot", so the firemen (or myself) can let you burn up one evening
instead of trying to save you and getting ourselves killed in the
process.

I once accidentally walked into a mobile home in a trailer park which I
thought was my sister-in-laws.  Honest mistake - they really looked the
same, especially at night.  Family inside was different though.  :-)

Also, under the right circumstances, such as someone being 
electrocuted on the front lawn in the kiddie pool, I might run inside
your house without knocking in order to disconnect the power.

You have explained why I no longer stop to help people alongside the
road (who are not in immediate peril) - nowdays you have to worry about
the paranoid as well as the criminals.

If you KNOW the trespasser is a criminal with intent to harm, I guess
that's a different story, but how can you tell?

No intention to flame - just some things to think about.  I wish guns
weren't fatal so you could shoot first and ask questions later - although
I guess that depends on your aim :-).

[Flakey newsfeed likes to cut out after I've posted.  Send mail if you
really want me to read something.  Thanks.]
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway)
Subject: ADVICE NEEDED: Redwood deck maintenance
Summary: Sap cleaning and preservative?
Reply-To: wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway)
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 19:07:53 GMT

I have recently acquired a house with several redwood decks underneath
pine trees.  A very nice place, but the decks are COVERED with pine
tree droppings and apparently have never been treated with anything
other than rain water.

First, does anybody have any advice on how to get the sap off?
Second, how about recommendations for a wood preservative, if any?  Or
is it best to leave redwood untreated?  The place is a half mile from
the ocean, by the way, and is nine years old.

Thanks much for any and all advice!

    Wayne Hathaway               domain: wayne@Ultra.COM
    Ultra Network Technologies     uucp: ...!ames!ultra!wayne
    101 Daggett Drive             phone: 408-922-0100 x132
    San Jose, CA 95134              FAX: 408-433-9287
From: jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shooting wild pigs
Date: 14 Aug 92 16:08:48 GMT
Organization: Center for Environmental and Regulatory Information Systems, Purdue University

From article <1992Aug14.003535.10232@michael.apple.com>, by ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith):
> In article <1992Aug13.205854.13580@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> 21329KAD@MSU (Kim Dyer) writes:
>>>>> will assure you that if you discharge a firearm in order to shoot the
>>>>> pig he will arrest you.
>>
>><<<long and detailed description of  Fish and Game hunting regulations
>>deleted for brevitity>>>
>>
>>I suspect that the problem the original poster would have with the law
>>isn't with the FIsh and Game people, but rather with the local government
>>which probably has laws against discharging a firearm within city
>>limits.  
> 
> The original poster specifically stated 'in the unincorporated county'
> and county sheriff.  They don't live in the city ... they are in the county.
> 
>>Perhaps if he went after the beastie with a bow (not something
>>*I* would want to do) he would be within the law.
> 
> I'd rather not try bow hunting a pig ... It does work, but you have
> to be good at it (and good at fast re-nocking of arrows!)  
>

Hmmm, would a crossbow be legal?
-- 
"Land of song, said the warrior bard,           Jim Heath
Though all the world betrays thee.
One sword, at least, thy rights shall guard, (The Minstrel Boy)
One faithful harp will praise thee."         (Thomas Moore)
From: n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 23 Aug 92 00:44:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: henson.1992Aug23.004434.27620
Organization: Western Washington University

toddi@mav.com (Todd Inch) writes:

>In article <1992Aug15.204131.1158@henson.cc.wwu.edu>
>n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio) writes:

>>Followups directed to talk.politics.guns, as the topic demands.

>[Doesn't appear to exist, maybe just our site?]

	Ask your system admin.  Many choose to block groups not 
specifically asked for.

>>>Lastly, if someone broke into my home I would shoot to kill.  This is
>>>my home you are speaking of and no one has a right to enter it unless
>>>I invite them.  I'm not assuming anything.  If they choose to breakin
>>>obiviously they KNOW they are not welcome and are going to do something
>>>illegal.

Wrong person, I didn't write that.  Please get the atribs. right.  

JD
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: william.zwicky@cray.com (Bill Zwicky)
Subject: Heat Pumps
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Cray Research
Date: 21 Aug 92 13:41:32 CDT

I'm considering installing a central air conditioner in my
house and ran across something called an "Air Source Heat Pump"
that would provide cool air in the summer and provide most of the
heat in the winter (when it gets real cold, my gas furnace takes over).
Has anyone had any experiences with heat pumps?  Are they cost 
effective/efficient?

Thanks,

Bill Zwicky
Cray Research

"He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep
 to gain what he cannot lose"   --- Jim Elliot
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: LVDUANE@SCIVAX.LERC.NASA.GOV (Duane Beach)
Subject: Re: Flourescent bulbs in standard fixtures
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 16:15:27 GMT

I started this thread, so now I'll let you know how it came out.  I
originally purchased a GE fluorescent bulb and requested info on other,
perhaps lower priced, bulbs.  In the meantime I've learned to hate the 1
minute lag to full light intensity and color quality of the GE units.

The net responded with a majority endorsement of Lights of America (LOA)
brand compact fluorescents.  I found a Cleveland vendor (Handy Andy) which
stocked LOA, GE, and Panasonic and proceeded to line them up side by side
in their respective fixtures for comparison (I included an incandescent,
too).

Brand       Price     Time to full intensity   Color
====================================================
GE           $22      about a minute	          blue-green  
                                               (better than standard shop 
	                                              lights, though)

Panasonic    $21      about 30 seconds         Same as GE

LOA          $15      nearly instantaneous     same as incandescent


The LOA unit wins hands down.  PLUS.. yuou replace only the bulb when it
burns out;  The ballast stays.  (Unfortunately Handy Andy doesn't stock the
replacement bulbs yet.)  The LOA's base is slightly wider than either the
GE or Panasonic units, but the LOA is also about an inch shorter overall. 
The LOAs also come with a lamp shade adapter to address any problems the
wide base might create.

Thanks for the recommendations!

BTW
I also learned to spell Fluorescent. :)  (see subject header)

Duane Beach
LVDUANE@SCIVAX.LERC.NASA.GOV
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jdg@devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Jim Griggers)
Subject: Re: Need advice on replacing plastic gutters
Organization: none
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 03:06:28 GMT

In article <1992Aug15.192440.26256@wuecl.wustl.edu> jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen) writes:
>I've finally decided to replace the plastic gutter on the front of my
>house (it leaks bad, both behind it and at the joints, and the
>downspout is too small).  I was hoping some of you could give me
>advice/opinions on installing new gutters.
>
>1.  Type: apparently, the only gutters one can buy at the hardware
>store are aluminum or plastic (the rest of my house has galvanized),
>so I was going to go with the aluminum.  Anyone have any other
>options?
>
I just got through pulling down aluminum gutters and replaced them with
vinyl gutters.  The old aluminum gutters always leaked, no matter what
I tried to seal them with.  The vinyl gutters have a silicone foam seal
that looks like it will not leak.  They have been up for several months
and so far, so good.  The vinyl gutters were quite a bit more expensive
than the equivalent aluminum ones.  The vinyl gutters are not glued but
simply snap into the connectors.

I installed about 300 feet of aluminum guttering on my mom's house about
2 years ago.  Almost every seam leaks now, in spite of using the correct
sealant.  I also tried silicone sealant on my aluminum gutters, but they
leaked within a few months.

>2.  Hanging method: from what I gather, there are basically two ways
>to hang the gutter: [.....]

The vinyl gutters used a bracket that could be adjusted to most any angle
of the fascia board.  My house has fascia boards that are not vertical.
The old aluminum gutters had to have a spacer strip on the bottom to make
the gutters mount vertical.  The spikes used were always pulling out.
I attached the vinyl brackets with screws.

>
>3.  fascia board: does anyone know what kind of wood this should be?
>Pine?  Redwood?  I may have to replace a section.
>
Mine is cedar, which matches my house's siding.  Try matching the fascia
board you are replacing.

>John A. Breen                   |
>jab3@cec1.wustl.edu             | This space unintentionally left blank


     Jim Griggers                   * * *
     jdg@devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM   * *
     408 Timber Ridge Dr.             *
     West Columbia, SC 29169
From: malladi@shanti1.Eng.Sun.COM (Deviprasad Malladi)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Green Tree group for Home insurance - READ THIS
Date: 19 Aug 92 15:17:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: shanti1


 This is available only in PA,MD,DE and NJ. They are planning on coming
 to rest of the country in the 90's.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jmcging@ssa.gov (John McGing)
Subject: Slow Drains
Summary: Easy slow drain fixes?
Keywords: drain plumbing fix
Reply-To: jmcging@oss724.ssa.gov
Organization: Social Security Administration
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:06:56 GMT

Just bought a new house.  It's 23 years old, and was a good deal :)

However, the old owners raised 5 girls in the house <yikes!> and the
2 bathroom (bathtub/shower) drains are slow.  Not clogged, but slower
than they should be.

I'd like to avoid plumbers, and am interested in "chemical" ways of
cleaning out the pipes.  What I'm looking for are recommendations on
products that would help unclog a slow drain.

If I get good e-mail replies, I'l post a synopsis on what I get!

Thanks!

John 
n
-- 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
John McGing                My opinions are my own......
jmcging@oss724.ssa.gov       no one else wants them....
From: dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek)
Subject: Re: Masking tape residue
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 16:17:49 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Aug16.002517.3220@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca>, akarpowicz@mta.ca (Adam Karpowicz) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug14.183239.24056@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
|> >Ok, so paint me foolish.  When redoing my living room, I covered the
|> >floor with pastic tarp and used masking tape to tape it to the hardwood
|> >floor.  The redo took longer than originally anticipated (so what else
|> >is new ;-).  When I finally finished and pulled up the plastic, the masking
|> >tape stuck to the floor, and left a lot of sticky residue.
|> >
|> >My question is: is there anything short of tons of elbow grease and soapy
|> >water that can get this gunk off without destroying the floor's finish?
|> >The floor is stained oak with a light poly coat.
|> >
|> 
|> Try to rub some ordinary vegetable oil on it and wipe off. If that will
|> not work, wipe off with some paint thinner, but watch the poly finish!!
|> Good luck
|> Adam
|> 

You might try Murphy's Oil Soap, it's a good cleaner for wood and won't hurt
the finish.

-Mike

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: duggan@cc.gatech.edu (Rick Duggan)
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Organization: College of Computing
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 19:11:33 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.163045.374@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>I think it would be sad for someone to spend time in prison for kiiling
>a theif.

I agree with the discussion about not depriving a ``thief'' of
his (or her) rights to a fair trial.  However, the main point is that at
2:00 in the morning, I know nothing about the motive of the invader
in my home.  It is merely prudent to worst-case the scenario and
assume you (and/or your family) are going to be harmed.  Yes, 
it would be sad to kill a thief (and if I *knew* he were only 
going to take my TV, I wouldn't shoot to kill).  But the point is 
that I don't *know* that.

-rick

"Random acts of violence just don't do it for me anymore.  Call it 
 maturity.  Bang!  Bang!  Heh, heh." - Cactus Jack WCW Saturday Night 07/04/92
Rick Duggan | duggan@cc.gatech.edu | CS1410 TA - Section A
Office Hours (CC 103): Tue 1:30-3:00 Thu 1:30-2:30
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: heflin@rtsg.mot.com (Suzanne Stratton Heflin)
Subject: Re: Replacing windows. Which type?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:12:23 GMT

jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:

>I'm looking into replacing the windows in a house I am remodeling.
>I've had two estimates with one place telling me aluminum windows
>are fine and the other telling me to go with vinyl.

>My question is, which is better, vinyl or aluminum?

We are currently building a house, and my builder (and others I have
spoken with) say that aluminum clad wood windows are the best.  He doesn't
like vinyl at all.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: harrism@aquila.rtp.dg.com (Mike Harris)
Subject: Re: New California Earthquake Insurance
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 12:55:51 GMT
Distribution: ca
Reply-To: harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC
Keywords: Earthquake Insurance

In article <l92s0mINNf8a@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, srivatsa@karna.Eng.Sun.COM (Chakra Srivatsa) writes:
|> It's that time of the year again, to renew my homeowner's insurance.
|> There's this new wrinkle that the State of California has thrown in,
|> in it's infinite wisdom:  CA provides mandatory quake insurance of
|> upto $15K, with a variable deductible, for about $60 in premium.

	Sounds like a poorly disguised tax rather than insurance. But then, 
	your state needs the money, so be a good citizen and bend over...

	Or leave!
|> 
|> I already have 100K of quake insurance with a 5% deductible, with
|> State Farm (have to check if I have the code upgrade rider!).
|> 
|> Can anyone answer these questions!
|> 
|> 1) Can I use the $15K of CA's coverage to pay State Farm's deductible?
	Sure - if both are primary insurance policies.
|> 2) Who pays what first?  State Farm says that these are 2 separate
|>    policies, and that one doesn't affect the other. Huh?
	Who ever you choose if both are primary policies.
|> 3) If I have a 15K loss, how do I split the claims?
	Probably best to not split it. In fact, filing against CA is
	probably your only chance to get something back from them.
|> 4) Can I ignore CA's insurance (I don't want IOUs :-)
	From what I've heard, civil disobedience is the only way to do so.
|> 5) The SF agent suggested raising my SF policy to $150K with a 10%
|>    deductible, so that the $15K deductible would be covered by CA.  Seems
|>    a bit much to me.
	Sounds like a way to sell more insurance as your SF deductible
	is *already* covered by CA.
From: lturvy@emdeng.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Larry.Turvy)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Masonite, what is it?
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:43:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NCR, E&M Dayton

I will soon be moving to the Atlanta, Ga area (Gwinnett Cnty)
and recently took a house hunting trip.  I noticed that the
most popular building material for new homes, without question,
was masonite.  This material is not popular where I currently
live.

What is this material?  How often does it need painting?
What is its life expectancy?  It seemed to me that pressure
washing was popular.  Any comments?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house