HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: wanted '66 dodge b-body parts
Date: 14 Aug 92 19:58:30 GMT
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory

I'm need parts for 1966 dodge coronet 500 & charger. Front sheet metal,
bumpers, fuel tank, grille & exterior trim ...  I need lots of little stuff to.
Will consider parts from b-body cousin cars 65-67. Thanxs



                                                   Kris
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
Date: 12 Aug 92 16:57:26 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1992Aug12.144838.1666@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
> Referring to the issue of painting over brass, I had asked about that before
> Has anyone tried plastic filler over lead? It's looking like I'll be adding
>some serious weight if I lead the area completely. My main interest is in 

If you're adding that much weight, you're using too lead. All fillers are
supposed to be kept pretty thin - 1/4" or so maximum thickness. Otherwise,
it gets too heavy, and will start to fall off from the road vibration. 
Otherwise, the underlying metal needs to be straightened some more. 
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:08:50 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Aug12.165726.17731@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>If you're adding that much weight, you're using too lead. All fillers are
>supposed to be kept pretty thin - 1/4" or so maximum thickness. Otherwise,
>it gets too heavy, and will start to fall off from the road vibration. 
>Otherwise, the underlying metal needs to be straightened some more. 

 Therein lies the problem. The panel is sort of inaccessible; there's the 
inner skin in the way making it impossible to swing a hammer. I have gone as
far as I can by heating and prying but the seam crease is about 1/2" below
the finish plane. I don't like the idea of drilling and pulling every two
inches and then having to repair -that- as well...

 So anyway, what about 1/4" of lead and 1/4" of plastic?
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: Douglas.R.Beekman@dartmouth.edu (Douglas R. Beekman)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Cletrac
Date: 13 Aug 92 00:58:28 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

In the latest issue of Gas Engine Magazine which I just recieved today,
there is a Cletrac Crawler, model BGSH for sale for $950. I suggest
getting the latest copy and then subscribing to the magazine because it
has some very helpful information. I own a Cletrac AG6 but am afraid I
have only limited information on their history.
-Doug
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: marvin@netcom.com (Marvin Carlberg)
Subject: faq?  How to keep whitewall tires white?
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 04:16:08 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

I put a set of Denman 560x15 whitewalls on my '57 VW bug about a year ago,
and they will not stay white.  A couple of sources have recommended Comet
cleanser, which I have tried a few times, was a lot of work, and still
left them a mild dingy brown.  I've been warned against the miracle 
whitewall bleaches cause they can do bad things to the tires long-term.
 
Is this the standard behavior and maintenance for whitewalls?  I drive the
car once or twice a month and it is garaged the rest of the time, but I live
in Los Angeles - is the smog getting to the tires?  What can I do to keep
them from turning brown so frequently?
 
Thanks for the help, sorry if this is a faq.
 
  -Marvin Carlberg
   marvin@netcom.com

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: rxkgre@minyos.xx.rmit.oz.au (Geof Evans)
Subject: Re: Flathead V8 temperature
Organization: RMIT Computer Centre, Melbourne Australia.
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 18:21:29 EST

glb@s1.gov (Gary L. Berry) writes:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> outline of flathead worry deleted <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

>temperature that his engine reaches.  At operating range it sits at 200
>degrees with a 4lb pressure cap.  It's a 100hp/239ci flathead engine,
                 >>>>>>>>>>>    <<<<>>>>   <<<<<<<<<<<
>engine.  All my chevys tend to run between 160 and 190 depending on the
>thermostat, and I feel that his ford should do the same.  Anyway, just

<<<<* Due to the design of the exhaust porting (thru' the water jacket !) on
      the venerable flatmotor they will always run a little warmer than any
      street mouse. 200 degrees is about right (and makes good HP) but no
      it doesn't give you a big margin. Try running a 7lb. radiator cap with
      a half gallon of coolent ("anti-freeze") in there. It will still boil off
      a fair amount so mount a catch bottle at the end of the overflow tube
      to catch it with at fuel stops. Make sure the tube end is well under the
      level of any overflow (like *real* close to the bottom 8->...). When he
      has the time (not to mention the folding stuff) maybe you could try some
      aluminium heads (4 times cast iron heat dissapation...& some xtra ponies)
      and dual pipes which will combine to further your high temp. margin by          about 12-15 degrees and gain you  about 25 horses. The absolute fix
      with a stock radiator is to braze off the filler neck (factory brazed)
      and braze on the neck from a no-loss radiator and run the overflow to a 
      sealed overflow tank. If every separate component (hoses,clamps too) is 
      shipshape then you will have few if any problems...even across the desert.      Look after that flathead and it WILL look after you...or your brother.

________________________________________________________________________________********  I got the pedal to the metal & my mind is in overdrive  **************
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-- 
  ___________________________________________________________________  
|| Geof Evans                 | DOMAIN: rxkgre@minyos.xx.rmit.oz.au  ||
|| Melbourne,Australia 3000   | Tel: +61 3 663 3663		     ||
||   If they *really* wanna know...tell 'em that God was drunk.      ||
||___________________________________________________________________||
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Flathead V8 temperature
From: fuchs@local.host
Date: 18 Aug 92 15:30:59 -0600
Reply-To: fuchs@local.host
Organization: Organization, City, State, etc.


Its also possible that the temperature gauge is not accurate.  You can check
that by using a candy therometer in the radiator.  There are 2 sending units
one on each head and one of them could be bad.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM (Matt Rein #3)
Subject: faq?  How to keep whitewall tires white?
To: alt.autos.antique
Posted-Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 07: 19:16 cdt
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 12:19:16 GMT
Received-Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 07: 19:22 CDT

> 
> I put a set of Denman 560x15 whitewalls on my '57 VW bug about a year ago,
> and they will not stay white.  A couple of sources have recommended Comet
> cleanser, which I have tried a few times, was a lot of work, and still
> left them a mild dingy brown.  I've been warned against the miracle 
> whitewall bleaches cause they can do bad things to the tires long-term.
>
  
I've used Bleach White for the last 5 years or so.  I have never noticed
any long-term "bad things" happen to any tire I've used it on.

> Is this the standard behavior and maintenance for whitewalls?  I drive the
> car once or twice a month and it is garaged the rest of the time, but I live
> in Los Angeles - is the smog getting to the tires?  What can I do to keep
> them from turning brown so frequently?
>

I beleive it is standard "maintenance" for whitewalls to turn yellow.  There
is no smog where I live and my tires need it once a month.
 
> Thanks for the help, sorry if this is a faq.
>  
>   -Marvin Carlberg
>    marvin@netcom.com
> 

Matt Rein                              _                
mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM            / )/              / /
Honeywell CFS/MO                     /  /_  _       _  / / _
Coon Rapids, MN                     (__/ /_(/_|\_|_(/_/_/_(/__ BY CHEVEROLET


Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: rex@eng.umd.edu (Rex Root)
Subject: Re: Flathead V8 temperature
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 16:47:48 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Maryland, College Park

In article <glb.714093407@s1.gov> glb@s1.gov (Gary L. Berry) writes:
>
>	I have a brother-in-law that is heading to LA from Bay Area in
>his 1949 Ford Tudor next weekend, and he is kind of worried about the
>temperature that his engine reaches.  At operating range it sits at 200
>degrees with a 4lb pressure cap.  It's a 100hp/239ci flathead engine,
>and he believes it's the original one.  Anyway, it doesn't look like
>this gives him a real cushion against hot weather (>100's) that we've
>been experiencing.  So, does anyone know if this is normal for this
>engine.  All my chevys tend to run between 160 and 190 depending on the
>thermostat, and I feel that his ford should do the same.  Anyway, just
>wondering if there is an answer out there.  Thanks in advance...
>
It's quit possible that one of the thermostats (the 239 flathead has two)
is not opening correctly causing the overall temperature to be high .. 
Although 200 degrees is not alarmingly high , it certainly could become
an issue driving in >100 degree temps  ........ 

Maybe replacing the thermostats with new 180 degree ones will solve the problem.


   - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
   Rex L. Root, Jr. (rex@eng.umd.edu)
   Manager, Facilities & Operations
   College of Engineering Computer Facility
   University of Maryland
   College Park, Maryland  20742
   Voice: (301) 405-3688
   FAX: (301) 314-9281
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:27:12 GMT

In article <thos.713658248@suite.sw.oz.au> thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen) writes:
>>I then tried a different approach.
>>I bought galvanized sheet metal and then rivited in into place. Then on
>>top of than I applied the firberglass bodywork.
>
>Arrrghgh. No. This is not the way to repair a car. If riveting was
>OK then the manufacturers would do it that way. Most cars today are
>built with a unibody (monocoque) bodyshell. If parts of this are
>weakened by riveting (however it is done) metal into place, then the
>strength of the whole is seriously reduced.
>The only way to get the same strength as the original panel is to weld.

I disagree.  Automakers spot-weld the larger pieces together, because
this is a clamping and bonding in one action (no holes to drill, etc).
Even professional auto-body shops don't mig weld replacement sheet-metal
along their entire length, only in spots.  In my case (the lower-rear
quarters) the structure of this part (down the lower-side and then up on
the inside to meet the trunk floor) does not lend itself to welding in
general.  With a rivit every 2" the resulting repair job is strong enough
(this isin't a structural part.  Door skins and small outer fender skin
areas don't contribute much to strength anyway).  The strength in flat
or curved body areas comes from stretching those areas, and in that case
the rivits would be in shear.

Riveting is good enough for airplanes.  

>It doesn't matter how it is done, the only way to ensure longevity
>of bodywork is to prep it properly, treat it properly afterwards, and
>clean it up every year. I'd allow maybe a weekend every year to strip
>off the old rustproofing and stone-chip compound, steam clean everything,
>de-rust anything that went rusty, and then goop it up again. One weekend
>a year is not that much to spend if it gives you a car with a much longer
>life.  It would probably be best to do this immediately that winter is 
>over and the salt etc. has been washed off the roads.

There are some areas of a car that conspicuously avoid rust, and some that
don't.  The best repair job involves correcting for the source of the rust
(ie maybe sealing the rear window better, drilling drain holes, installing
a trunk heater to prevent dew from condensing, etc).  I don't relish the
thought of grinding away maybe 1/8 " or 1/4" of hand-finished fiberglass 
nd get down to the metal and start the job over again.
From: jhenders@jonh.wimsey.bc.ca (John Henders)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Organization:  One of these days for sure
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
	<thos.713658248@suite.sw.oz.au>
	<1992Aug13.152712.23399@julian.uwo.ca>
	<1992Aug13.180911.22418@mlb.semi.harris.com>
Reply-To: jhenders@jonh.wimsey.bc.ca
X-Software: HERMES GUS 1.03 Rev. Apr 14 1992
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 14:37:46 -0700

In <1992Aug13.180911.22418@mlb.semi.harris.com>, James W. Swonger writes:

	<< Stuff about not using galvanised steel and rivits deleted >>

	According to what I've read, zinc actually attracts rust from 
the surrounding steel, so a good repair with galvanised steels 
should be as good as you can get, outside of galvanizing a welded
steel area. 
	There are cold galvanising coatings available. I know when I worked 
in the steel industry, one contract we had to ship a sawmill to South 
America required that all the steel be sandblasted and sprayed with a 
zinc-epoxy coating that was 98% zinc. I've seen spray cans of what looks
like a similar paint, Has anyone had any longterm experience with this 
stuff?

-- 
jhenders@jonh.wimsey.bc.ca
From: hlauria@infoserv.com (harvey lauria 121 walti st #4 santa cruz ca 95060 4084263093)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: ALLEN BAR 84 AUTO ENGINE ANALYZER FOR SALE
Keywords: Engine-Gas Analyzer
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 20:57:03 PDT
Distribution: world
Organization: biochemical consultant

r \user\hlauria\sea
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: rcg1597@zeus.tamu.edu (GUYNN, RICHARD CARL)
Subject: Re: MGB Trouble
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:34:00 GMT

>am very careful not to accelerate too quickly, the engine hesitates for
>a moment before "catching" and running normally. The car has a 1799cc
>stock engine which has been equipped with an aftermarket Weber
>down-draft.I have a set of jets for the carb, but either the mixture is
>not the problem or I just havn't found the right combination. Also, the
>vaccuum advance seems to be working properly. Can anyone give me any
>suggestion?

	Are you absolutely sure that the vacuum advance is working correctly?  
Are sure what you have seen as far as advance is not the mechanicla advance?  It 
is my undersstanding (I was just reading an article on intakes for British cars 
-- mg in particular last month) that when you install carbeuretors like webers, 
instead of the normal demand-type SU carbuerettors, then you lose oyur ability 
to have a vacuum advance and the distributor must be re-curved to compensate.  
If you want, I'll go look through the article again.  It appeared in the last 
issue of MG magazine, written by a guy named Marc Sayer.  I've spoken with him 
before and he is very good with all things mechanical.

-Rick
***************************************************************************
*Rick Guynn -MG driver wanna-be.  *  MGA 1600 MkII                        *
*RCG1597@zeus.tamu.edu            *  Rebuild (complete) to be finished ?? *
*Texas A&M University             *                                       *
*Keeper of the eternal octagon    *                                       *
* a.k.a. The marque symbol that   *                                       *
*        refuses to die.          *                                       *
***************************************************************************
From: SDDASCOMB@UCDAVIS.EDU (Steve Dascomb)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Magazine Ads
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:43:43 GMT
Organization: U.C.Davis
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7
X-XXDate: Mon, 17 Aug 92 12:45:06 GMT

What's a good magazine to find old advertisements for 55-65 trucks.
Somebody had posted this earlier and I forgot the name. Some farm
journal I think.       Thanks, Steve Dascomb, SDDASCOMB@UCDAVIS.EDU
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: 1968 Camaro/1964 chevelle info.
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 12:08:03 GMT


In the process of restoring a 1968 Camaro, I am looking for a
1968 Chevy 327 engine to be as close to new as possible, so
if anyone has a old 1968/327 block they want to sell, let me
know.


Also, the engine that came out of the car (with extensive
research) was taken out of a 1964 1/2 chevelle.  It is a small
block (2hundred and somthing) with all new accesories to match
the 1964 1/2 car (Power steering, starter, altenator, etc..)
so, if you need a 1964 1/2 block, I am looking to sell it.

Thanks.

Marc.
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
Date: 12 Aug 92 22:24:08 GMT
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd

In <1992Aug12.010438.21525@julian.uwo.ca> wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:

>very dark when it dries.  $30 or so a gallon).  On top of all that
>was Duraglass bodywork.  Inside of 4 years, all the metal had rusted away
>or was very weak.

Obviously moisture or salt etc was getting in from somewhere. Unless
the metal you attached it to had some rust left in.

>I then tried a different approach.
>I bought galvanized sheet metal and then rivited in into place. Then on
>top of than I applied the firberglass bodywork.
>Three years later, I need to go over some surface rust that's coming through,
>but the galvinized metal is still in great shape.

Arrrghgh. No. This is not the way to repair a car. If riveting was
OK then the manufacturers would do it that way. Most cars today are
built with a unibody (monocoque) bodyshell. If parts of this are
weakened by riveting (however it is done) metal into place, then the
strength of the whole is seriously reduced.
The only way to get the same strength as the original panel is to weld.

>last for maybe 6 or 7 years.  Even with MIG welding, there's no really
>good metal prep or treatment or covering that will stand up to trapped
>water or acids etc.  Try riviting a few pieces of galvinized steel.
>It's soo much easier that all the clamps and stuff you need with oxy-
>acetelene braise welding...

It doesn't matter how it is done, the only way to ensure longevity
of bodywork is to prep it properly, treat it properly afterwards, and
clean it up every year. I'd allow maybe a weekend every year to strip
off the old rustproofing and stone-chip compound, steam clean everything,
de-rust anything that went rusty, and then goop it up again. One weekend
a year is not that much to spend if it gives you a car with a much longer
life.  It would probably be best to do this immediately that winter is 
over and the salt etc. has been washed off the roads.

If you do this, then it won't matter how you fix your car, it will last.


regards,
-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Carpet replacement sources wanted
Date: 12 Aug 92 23:38:35 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA

In article <1992Aug6.181514.26420@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, cobarruvias@asd2.jsc.nasa.gov writes:
|> I am replacing the carpet in my 81 camaro. Anyone know of a quality source of
|> purchasing one? Anyone have experience with JCWhitney's carpets and cushions? 

You might try GM.  Guaranteed to be "correct", might be a little more expensive but
it WILL fit.

--- hans
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Brazing up sheet metal
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:09:11 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 I could've been painting now if I had gone and done pop rivets, fiberglass
and plastic. Thing is, where I live you can't get a permanent, as in 
bury-me-in-my-car permanent repairs that way. It's just too humid, and woe
to the sap who goes to the beach often. The area I sanded to do lead on
Tuesday night was thoroughly rusted again on Wednesday - in my garage!.
Got to move quick once you expose the steel. 

 Pop rivets are great for planes which are all aluminum anyway. However planes
also have rivets every inch or so, and won't rust at all. I admit it's 
possible to do a good-looking repair this way but I have enough doubts about
the permanence of it to do it the hard way. In fact there's a row of rivet
heads showing on the inside of the quarter I've not gotten to yet. There's
also a bunch of rust coming out from under the Bondo neardy.

 As to taking the practices of body shops as guidance, I'd watch them paint
but most of their techniques are going to be tailored to making mo money
mo money, churning late model ding and crash repairs through for the
insurance money. No benefit to them for doing a job the long way. There
are only a few places that are dedicated to the craft, and these do seem
to MIG-weld panels in and use lead, at least in trouble spots.

 I suppose I'll end up using some plastic after all, as a surfacer over a rust-
proof substrate.

 As an aside, I did a little experiment with trying to hot-dip-galvanize steel
last night using some zinc strip I had. Results were not very satisfying. The
zinc required near red heat to flow well and did not adhere as I had hoped;
it stuck somewhat but could be peeled off with a knife. So it looks like
electrogalv is the way to go. That is more tedious but at least it lays down
a tight layer. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique