HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: Headphones
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 22:16:38 GMT

In article <NAN.92Sep11141509@ertou.ucsc.edu>, nan@ertou.ucsc.edu (Nan Ellman) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> One side of my Senheiser hd430 headphones stopped working recently. I
|> checked that it wasn't the cord that was the problem. Since the
|> headphones disconnect easily from the cord and the headset, I am
|> hoping I can just replace the single speaker instead of buying a whole
|> new set. 
|> 
|> Does anyone know if this is possible? Who makes Senheiser headphones?
|> They say they are made in Germany. Is there a US distributor I could
|> deal with? 

   I did just that with my HD424's a few years back. It is quite likely
that your 430's can be repaired by ordering the driver from Sennheiser.
They do have a US branch where you can get the replacement. Don't
recall the address, but you could probably get it by looking for a 
Sennheiser ad in Stereo Review or another audio mag - the phone and/or
address is probably listed in the ad.

|> If replacing the part isn't feasible, can anyone recommend a good set
|> of headphones to replace them?

   Sony MDR V6 have been highly recommended by a lot of people in this
group - including me.

|> Nan Ellman

-- Tim
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: gfl@hera.uucp (22402-lenahan)
Subject: Re: Inverting buffer?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 20:40:55 GMT
Summary: Walt Jung's book
Keywords: inverting buffer

In article <1992Sep10.155759.23054@sei.cmu.edu>, rsd@sei.cmu.edu (Richard S D'Ippolito) writes:
> Burr-Brown book, as it contains serious errors which have tripped up many an
> EE student.  Perhaps others can suggest a saner, more intelligent text which
> has replaced it, thus reassuring me that hope is sometimes rewarded with
> progress.

The BB book IS excellent for applications, but so is Walt Jung's
audio op amp book, published by SAMS.  Cook book circuits, some
logic, a bit dated, but who cares?

Easy to read.

Grant

Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: pcb2@watson.ibm.com (Allegro Users' Account 2)
Subject: Re: How do I clean LPs?
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 12:25:45 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

> 	As long as I am concerned, the best system to clean LP's is the
> Nitty Gritty machine.  It's like a big vacuum for vinyls.  The problem is the
> price.  The best way to use it without paying that price is to find a friend
> who has it, wich I did.  The result is surprizing.
> 
        I've used a VIP 16.5 which has worked well on most albums, but I
  keep running across albums that still crackle alot after multiple cleanings.
       
        Is this the way the album is cut, The material, my cleaning procedures
  or the recording.

  This has happened with new and old records. Cheskys Pertruska which I have
  only played 3 times is full of crackle which I can't seem to remove.
        I dont think another solution would make a big difference, I'm using
  Last. 

  This is the proceedure I usually use.
        Vacume recordings with only light surface dust, by holding the cover
  up, so the vacume brush barley touches the record. I do this cleaning without
  using solution assuming the solution  will only help to  carry surface dust
  down into the groves. 
        If the disk is still noisy or needs a good cleaning then I give it a 
  thorough cleaning with a liquid.


                                               Mike Jackyra 
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: klebl@iis.ethz.ch (Marcel Klebl)
Subject: Sony MD !!! absolutely great
Keywords: Sony, MD, Mini-Disk
Organization: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH), Zurich, CH
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 11:34:57 GMT


Hello,

2 weeks ago, here in Switzerland a audio exhibition took place. 
SONY presented his new SONY Mini-Disk System.

I think it's a really great medium and will also be found in the     
Computer Sector as an storage medium.

On december 1992 there will be 2 machines on the market.

1) only player machine :

   really small, i would say tiny. Looks like the newest design
   of a Walk Man.

   Costs: 800 sFr. (~ 1100 $)

2) player and recorder

   a little bit bigger. The design isn't perfect.

   Costs: 1000 sFr. (~ 1400 $)

   There will be a newer one on the market next year. This one
   looks really great.

Until december 1992 there will be aproximatly 300 titles available
on the market. The price of an MOD-CD (pre recorded) will be as 
the prices of an normal CD.
 
The price of an none recorded MOD-Disk will be about 11 $


I'm really convinced about this system. 
It is small, perfect quality and it will be usable on audio and 
for computer. This is the first system where the audio and the
computer world can be connected on the same system. 

     Ok, hope to have helped you.

              Regards, Cello, writing from Switzerland !!!

O iDen
From: dhukill@esprit.prime.com (Dave Hukill x4056 5-1)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Best type of CD changer?
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:29:06 GMT

IMHO, carousel players are the most reliable. Unless you have a disc changer
in your car, the cartridge type players aren't as reliable. I listened to
alot of different changers before settling on Sony CDP-C87ES. I paid $600 for
it. The 1992 model is CDP-C89ES. You may also want to take a look at the
CDP-C79ES. Basically the same model, minus some bells and whistles.


Dave Hukill <dhukill@esprit.prime.com>
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: root@Ingres.COM (Operator)
Subject: Quality of Speaker Wire Inside your Speakers
Summary: Bad quality wire inside speaker cabinets
Reply-To: mossj@Ingres.COM (Operator)
Organization: Ask Computer Systems Inc., Ingres Division, Alameda CA 94501
Date: 14 Sep 92 14:50:54 GMT



I have wanted to try and upgrade my speakers but as funds are low I thought that I would open up my speaker cabinets (v. carefully!) and see what the cross-over to speaker connection wire looked like. To my horror the wire is just ordinary CRAPPY basic connection wire that one would use for soldering between a switch and printed circuit board in a school science room!  

I have decided to replace all the connectivity wire inside my speakers (MISSION 707's) with some decent speaker inter-connect cable that I have spare - this is actually Van den Hul cable.

Have any of you carried out a similiar exersize?

ALSO, I may by some banana sockets and attach them to the rear of my speakers so that I can convert the connections into bi-wire mode. Have any of you done this and if so what did you do about the cross-over unit?


Thanks in advance of your replies,

Jonathan Moss


Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: friday@netcom.com (Carol Anne Ogdin)
Subject: Help? Isolating Speakers from Neighbor
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 92 20:07:09 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Summary: Fix Problem with Bass through a wall?
Keywords: Speakers, Bass, disturbance, neighbor, wall

My (cordial) neighbor and I are trying to solve a problem:  I
hear HIS bass through our common wall between townhouses.  He
has an off-the-shelf Technics system, running a pair of Technics
speakers about 3 feet high.  He runs the tone controls "flat."
The speakers are about a foot from the wall.

On the other side of the common wall, where I sit at my terminal
I hear the booming bass (probably nice music, but I don't get
any of the mid-range  :-) ).  My ears are probably (through the
wall) about six-eight feet from the speakers.  He's playing the
stuff at what I'd consider "normal" volume (could carry on a
conversation in the same room without shouting).

The bass is driving me nuts.  Got any ideas how to solve the
problem of decoupling?

Here are a couple of ideas we're gonna try, but I'm looking for
more:
  1.  Although both townhouses sit on the same concrete slab,
     we gonna try to "decouple" the speakers from the floor with
     a two-inch thick foam or fiberglas pad.
  2.  The inexpensive Technics speakers have a fiberboard back,
     which I suspect is vibrating with the bass, coupling through
     a foot of air to the wall (and wall acts as a low-pass
     filter).  So, we're gonna tape a 2" thick foam pad to the back
     of the speakers (double-faced tape) to see if it will absorb
     some of the bass.

No, moving is not an option at this time  :-).

I'd appreciate any help you more experienced hands might be able to
offer.  Respond direct, or through the newsgroup.

---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---
    - Friday -                      "Practice random acts of kindness 
      friday@well.sf.ca.us                      and senseless beauty."
      (aka Carol Anne Ogdin@Santa Clara, CA)
-- 
---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---   ---
    - Friday -                      "Practice random acts of kindness 
      friday@well.sf.ca.us                      and senseless beauty."
      (aka Carol Anne Ogdin@Santa Clara, CA)
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 10:50:18 EDT
From: Spaceman Spiff <SXK129@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Stacking audio components

I recently purchased a receiver & a cd player, but am still looking around
for an affordable rack. In the meantime I am thinking of placing the cd player
on top of the receiver (or vice-versa) to make some more place available on
my table (where the two components are currntly placed side by side).
What I want to know is- is it o.k. to place one component on top of the other
or will it affect the cooling in a major way? This will only be for a short
while (2 weeks, tops) until I get a rack.
Even if this is an incredibly newbie question, please don't email flames, since
I'm sincerely asking for advice. Any constructive suggestions will be highly
appreciated.
Thanx in advance,
Sunil
SXK129@PSUVM.PSU.EDU
From: dap3257@zeus.tamu.edu (DON PERLICK)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: What to put in a 92 T-Bird?
Date: 13 Sep 92 16:45:00 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <18tf7mINNbrs@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan) writes...
> 
>In a previous article, cccsims@underdog.ucdavis.edu (Jonathan Sims) says:
> 
>>
>>
>>   I'm looking for repsonses from people that have T-Birds and what they've

>His system is basic, yet covers all the bases quite well. It can play loud
>enough for almost all. It is very smooth, and does not need any kind of 
>eq'ing, or a center stage. However, for a more basic system, one can for-
>go the expensive subwoofer. He plans on adding an alpine CD shuttle in
>about a year. It will be very easy to upgrade and add on to. And, it is
>all stock appearance ( besides the box in the trunk ) He finds that he 
>does not even NEED rear speakers. He's quite happy with it. Note, this
>was self installed with my help. 
>-- 

	I've got a buddy pretending to be putting a system in a Tbird 
(he's been at it for 3-4 months & still only has the wires run and
1/2 of the speakers in).  Can you tell me how you have the speakers
located?  I'd like to help him build a good system (if he ever gets
serious about installing it)

Don
From: collin@angelo.amd.com (Collin K. Ong)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: speaker outputs -> pre-amp inputs
Date: 14 Sep 92 17:09:50 GMT
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.

I've seen this question posted many times on the net but have never seen
it answered, so could somebody please please please answer it??!?

How can you pad down the speaker outputs of a car deck that doesn't have
pre-amp outputs so that they can be patched into the pre-amp inputs
of a separate amp?  Exact circuit diagrams would be nice.

Thanks in advance,

Collin Ong
collin@brahms.amd.com
From: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Using a separate battery:  Perfect Interface or Bat Isolator
Date: 13 Sep 1992 07:51:39 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau) says:
>   fails, I can flip a switch to send current from the motorcycle battery
>   to start the motor....
>
>No need to do this yourself.  All major battery manufacturers now sell
>batteries that do just this.  Just flip a switch at the top of the
>battery to use the backup.  Voila.
>
>   tell me if this is an insane Idea, I was just wondering!
>
>Insane is trying to power your stereo system off photovoltaic cells :)
>

those batteries that have secondary units are very expensive though!!!
-- 
Paul Simundza                  | Cleve.Freenet: ae454@cwru.edu
                               | Compuserve: 71441.217@compuserve.com
                               | CSU(Internet): pauls@madnick.cba.csuohio.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: paulf@halcyon.com (Paul Forgey)
Subject: Re: A FEW THOUGHTS AND QUESTI
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc. (206) 455-3505
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 09:47:19 GMT

rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle)  writes:

> BIancolin,
>        Consider MTX Blue Thunders as a possible sub.  Car Audio(Mar 90)
>raved about the 10" Blue Thunders and everyone that I have heard that
>has heard them loves them.  They are cheap too!!!!

If you don't mind spending the money, take a listen to AVI.  I have a
pair of 10s with a Promoss 50 amp, and WOW!

>        Audio Control is the only way to go with Eq's and other things
>like that.  Wait till you get a chance to read the instruction manual
>and stuff.  It is hilarious.

If you happen to be local, Audio Control has extremely good customer
serive.  I took an Epicenter in for warrenty repair, and they fixed it
in five minuites while I waited!
From: moskowit@tronsbox.xei.com (Len Moskowitz)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: PerfectBox???!!!
Date: 6 Sep 92 01:18:12 GMT
Organization: Xanadu Enterprises Inc.

In article <5452@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> dalst6+@pitt.edu (Diaz A
Luis) writes:

>I have heard some people on this group talking about something called
>perfect box or PERFBOX and I was wondering what it was, if its really worth
>getting and, if it is, where can i get a copy. Thanks

Perfect Box is a shareware program written by Warren Merkel (2815
Newcomb Court, Orlando Florida 32826-3411).  It computes box sizes,
port sizes, expected SPL, power handling, and other key parameters;
all from a driver's T/S parameters.  I recommend it highly.

It's available from the author and also via the Madisound BBS (out in
Madison, Wisconsin).  I've heard it's also available via FTP but don't
know from where.

If you use it and find it useful, please send some money to Warren to
repay him for his considerable effort.

-- 
---

Len Moskowitz
moskowit@tronsbox.xei.com (preferred address)
moskowit@panix.com (alternate address)
From: jch@sumac27.cray.com (J.C. Hamlin)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Using a separate battery:  Perfect Interface or Bat Isolator
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:41:33 GMT
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Originator: jch@sumac27


> In article <1992Sep8.163045.271@bpdsun1.uucp> rmf@bpdsun1.uucp (Rob Finley) writes:
> 
>    Some company made a box called the Perfect Interface.  Others, 
>    (such as Streetwires) make these heatsinked  devices called
>    battery isolators.
> 
>    Anyone melt their car battery with this equipment?

There's been lots of responses to this question so far, but nobody has 
addressed the real problem with battery isolators.  You should definitely 
have this device installed by a certified professional -- here's why:

Robert Lau mentioned that there's a voltage drop across the diodes in the 
isolator -- this is correct.  However, that effects the regulator (the device 
that tells the alternator how much charge the battery needs -- usually internal
to the alternator).  With the voltage drop across the diodes, the regulator 
will not be set at the right voltage to charge the battery to it's peak voltage
of about 12.5V.  Because of the voltage drop across the diodes, the regulator 
will always think the battery is low and continue to charge the battery -- 
resulting in overcharging.  This can quickly ruin a battery; not to mention 
that it's also very dangerous.  I've encountered this problem quite often 
when an unknowning person installed his own two battery system.  Have a 
qualified installer adjust or replace your regulator.

Hope this helps!

J.C. Hamlin
Automotive Sound & Security by Hamlin
jch@Cray.COM
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: tjd28@cas.org ()
Subject: Need Help with system installation in '91 Talon.
Organization: Columbus State Community College, Columbus, Ohio
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 12:41:13 GMT


Howdy.  I am getting ready to install a competition type system in
my '91 Talon and I need some help.  I am thinking of going with either
4 10" or 12" Kicker Subs.  2 6x9's in the factory positions for mid's,
2 5 1/4's in the doors and 2 tweeters in the front window and possibly
a center channel.  Driving the woofers will be 2 punch 45 amps.

I want to go with an isoberic box in the trunk that will look like this...
		   Trunk
		 -------------      w = woofer
		/   w /\ w    \
	       /     /  \      \
	    __/      \  /       \__
	    |       w \/ w        |
	    -----------------------

is this a good idea????

I would really appreciate any suggestions on this idea and especially
on the amps and woofers.


Thanks alot,

Trav
tjd28@cas.org
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: -=-=-=-=- Alternator Overload -=-=-=-=-
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:17:37 GMT

  As a mobile system grows and more amps and components are
added on, eventually, the current draw from the car's 
electrical system might exceed the alternator's output
current. What do most installers do to provide ample current
when doing multi-amp multi-component high-power systems?
Do they have to buy a high output alternator to replace the
vehicle's existing one or is there a simpler solution?

any insight appreciated,

-- Tim
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: wwein@scott.skidmore.edu (warren wein)
Subject: Re: CD Changer Sound Quality
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 19:01:48 GMT


	I just installed Sony's u300rf.  When comparing it to changers
that are directly connected I can tell you that the direct connection
sounds the same.  The rf connection is supposed to not transmit any
music above 16k Hz.  However, that is the limit of what humans are
supposed to be able to hear, so it shouldn't be noticeable.  The only
noticeable disadvantage that I've noticed is that my FM reception is poorer. 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Warren Wein

'83 Audi 5000s: sport sedan from hell!!!
'86 Toyota MR2: a real sports car, fun! fun! and more FUN!
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX: "Atomic M&M"  Is this thing glued to the
                                          road? 	

" Insurance in Brooklyn costs how much ?! "

e-mail: wwein@skidmore.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: paul@eye.com (Paul B. Booth)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Alpine repair ?
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 13:57:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: 3D/EYE, Inc.  Ithaca, NY

Hi-

A month or so ago, the mechanic who was supposed to just replace the timing
belt on the 924 managed to burn out the ignition control electronics.  I'll
probably never know how, because we didn't part on the greatest of terms.
Aaaaanyway, he also managed to partially fry my cassette deck, which is why
I'm posting here.  The deck (an Alpine 7155, mid 80's vintage) seems to have
full mechanical function (i.e., it loads and transports tape, all the lights
light etc) but puts out no audio, either from the cassette or from the tuner.
Also, the led display that shows channel selection is blank.

To all you experts out there, does this sound like just a blown internal fuse,
(do these boxes have a separate fuse for mechanicals and for electronics?) or
does it sound like more serious damage?  Are these things readily repairable,
or am I looking for a new cassette deck?

Thanks for any wisdom

-- 
Paul B. Booth  (paul@eye.com)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D/EYE, Inc., 2359 N. Triphammer Rd., Ithaca, NY  14850    voice: (607)257-1381
                                                             fax: (607)257-7335
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

Boston 757's for sale:

I have a pair of brand new Boston Acoustics 5.25" 2-way speakers 
(model 757) for sale at $120  o.b.o. for the pair. Please let me know if you 
interested. They sound great, but I just want to upgrade to a component 
system.  Thanks.

Farshid
From: dabe@bbn.com (David Abe)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: cd head units
Date: 8 Sep 1992 17:41:06 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc.
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

Does anyone have any experience with mounting a CD head unit verically? I
am especially interested in installing one of the following 3 models:

        PIONEER DEH-680 SONY CDX-5180 Eclipse ECD-410

I am mostly interested in how a vibration dampening mechanism in a head
unit suffers when mounted along the vertical axis.

Thanks

Dave Abe
dabe@bbn.com

***************************************************************************

David S. Abe 	     x-2401 	      page @ 88-401	      office  2/232

***************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: zvona@SAIL.Stanford.EDU (David Chapman)
Subject: Miata: headrest speakers?  watts?  systems?
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Distribution: rec
Date: 10 Sep 92 15:06:07

I recently bought a base Miata (no stereo) and will put a stereo in it
soon.  I have some (probably naive) questions:

There is a provision for headrest speakers in the seat.  Is this a
good idea?  Or am I better off putting more power into door locations?
Or what?  My intuition is that having sound coming from right behind
one's head would be weird, but what do I know.

Roughly how many watts would be good for top-down driving in a small
convertible such as this?  I know that one can go to arbitrarily many,
so I guess this is a pretty subjective question, but any experiences
people have would be useful.  

Also, if anyone has stories to tell about what specific equipment they
put in a Miata and whether they are happy with it, I'd love to hear
them.  Thanks!
--
David Chapman
Teleos Research
576 Middlefield Road
Palo Alto, CA 94301
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: wpg30940@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (WILT)
Subject: Sub Port Sizing ?
Summary: Does diameter of a port matter?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 05:48:48 GMT
Keywords: Sub woofer port

I am currently building a ported enclosure for my Orion XTR 10.
I am wanting to use 1.5" dia. drain pipe for the port, but someone
told me that this would lower the sound quality as compared to using
3" or larger (diameter) ports.  Other people have told me that the
diameter is not that big a deal.  So, does the port diameter change
the sound quality significantly?  (Of course, I know that the lengths
would be different for different diameters of port.)

Two other questions:
-Does the depth of an enclosure matter?  My box will be 5.75" deep while
 the sub will be approx. 4.5" deep.  Is this bad?

-Has anyone else ever ported an Orion XTR 10 with the port tuned to the 
 mid 20's ?  I am considering tuning to 26 Hz so that I get a flatter
 bass response.  If you have, how much wattage is going to it and how
 does it sound as compared to sealed enclosure ?

THANKS !
-- 
                                                                      |
\       / -+- |   --+--  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~  ---+---
 \  |  /   |  |     |           E-MAIL:   w-glick@uiuc.edu            |
  \/ \/   _|_ |__   |    ________________________________________     |
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car