HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: eugene@amelia.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: [l/m 10/13/92] past topics (2/28)			r.cli FAQ
Followup-To: poster
Organization: NAS Program, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 93 12:35:14 GMT
Reply-To: eugene@amelia.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)

Panel 2 -- Past topics

TABLE OF CONTENTS of this chain:

2/ Previous topics
3/ 
4/ 
5/ 
6/ 
7/ References
8/ 
9/ 
10/
11/ 
12/ 
13/ 
14/ In memoriam
15/
16/
17/ 
18/ 
19/ 
20/ 
21/ Climbing glossary
22/ 
23/ 
24/ 
25/ 
26/ 
27/ 
28/ 
1/ DISCLAIMER

Past topics

A summary of topics discussed in this news group since inception.
Most have opinions pro and con, we do not attempt to summarize these here.

Topics: (many topics discussed in other groups instead e.g., r.b.)

Equipment, munge, gear, junk, rangoon, stuff
	(largely seekable in books or vendor literature, at stores, mail order)
Climbing
	Getting started		Beginners
	Protection		ethics
	style			chalk
	bolting			Hang dogging, YoYo-ing,
	red pointing, pink pointing, etc.
	Beta
	Testing, physics, etc.	Ratings, names of climbs,
	'Lycra and wool'	Expeditions
	Ice climbing		knots
	Rapping			Caving
	Internationalism	competitition
	Literature		Ratings, Grades, Classes

Sport climbing
	climbing walls

Locations
	Where?
	Limited trip reports
	Conditions
	Geology
	Routes and route finding

Rescue
	Equipment of 
	Stories, epics, accidents


Usenet: Not for the weak at heart.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: kochte@stsci.edu
Subject: Joshua Tree climbing suggestions
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 15:33:07 GMT

Greetings, Netters,

I've a couple of climbing friends who are getting married in a few months
and want to take their honeymoon out at Joshua Tree, and as they have no
access to the Network (much less email), they asked me to ask you to give
them suggestions of climbs to do out there, and what kind of pro is needed.
They'll probably be climbing between 5.5 to 5.9 lead, 5.10 toprope. I was
out long, long ago, but didn't get enough exposure to the area to point them
much of anywhere except Short Wall (where the only toprope-able 5.10 I am
familiar with is Right V-Crack). Any responses you have for routes and/or
pro I will pass on to them. Thanks!

(and as a friend of mine in Pa says, "May your belayer never sleep!")
Mark

(sorry if this gets double-posted; problems on our end?)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: sutton@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Rich Sutton)
Subject: Re: Joshua Tree climbing suggestions
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 16:55:57 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Dec29.012610.12022@logiconultra.com> john@logiconultra.com (John Martyniak) writes:
>
>One of the best (and only) multi pitch climbs at JT is Walk on the Wild  
>Side.  It is rated at 5.8 (only one 5.8 move), I would say that the  
	/* stuff deleted */

Here's another vote for Walk on the Wild Side. Your friends should also
do the 1st pitch of Solid Gold at the Astrodomes. Beautiful 5.9 face climbing
on little ledges formed by exfoliation. They can finish on My Laundary if
they're not in the mood for the 5.10 pitch.
From: bdw+@cs.cmu.edu (Blake Ward)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Anyone with a fused ankle?
Date: 29 Dec 92 16:32:34 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

I have a fused ankle (the result of shattering the talus bone in my ankle in
a climbing accident) and I'm looking for other climbers, mountaineers,
or outdoor enthusiasts with similar injuries to exchange experiences,
advice, etc.  If you or someone you know has a similar injury, I'd love to
hear from you.
From: degennar@bmsrs.usc.edu (Ray)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Joshua Tree climbing suggestions
Date: 30 Dec 1992 11:12:32 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: bmsrs.usc.edu

If you're going into the Wonderland, do Mental Physics.  It's a primo two
pitch climb.  The first pitch is a really fun fist/hand crack (5.7, maybe
5.8) and the second is bolted face (5.8, maybe a 5.9 section or two).  
The dome is really easy to find, but the way to the base is tricky.  If I
remeber correctly, you have to go past the dome and then come back around
on the other side of the huge, very long boulder.


-- 

Ray (DJ) DeGennaro II
degennar@scf.usc.edu
From: hostetlr@bucknell.edu (Jim Hostetler)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: WINTER IN THE WHITE MTNS.
Followup-To: rec.climbing
Date: 22 Dec 1992 14:00:30 GMT
Organization: Bucknell University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: macl52.bucknell.edu

In article <1992Dec18.152255.24992@inmet.camb.inmet.com>,
daf@riviera.camb.inmet.com (Tony Flanders) wrote:
> 

>
> 
> It is not clear from your posting whether you are looking for hiking,
> climbing, or something in between.  If you have been up Huntington's
> in winter, you are either a competent mountaineer or more than usually
> foolish; if you have done a full Presidential traverse, you are obviously
> tough.  If you want to do more serious climbing, get hold of the Ice
> Climber's Guide to New England, which just came back in print.  If you
> want to do more serious hiking, you are out of luck -- the Presidential
> traverse is by far the longest above-treeline hike east of the Mississippi
> and south of Labrador.  If you just want to see some pretty scenery, I
> have all kinds of other suggestions.

I guess I'm looking for something in between on this trip. I am an
experienced climber (I spent this past May on Denali-- gulp!) but I'm
taking two rock jocks up to give them experience in winter mountaineering.
They see Aconcagua in their future. We will, to some degree make a decision
on how to proceed once we know the conditions at our time of departure and
the weather forecast. Please tell me does the Harvard Hut get crowded?
What's their capacity? I was there in October but no one was around. Also,
I know that in the summer camping is not permitted in Huntington Ravine but
what about in the winter?
> 
> By the way, have you also considered the Adirondacks?  The Range Trail
> rivals the Presidential traverse in scenic beauty, although it is almost
> entirely below treeline.  And the Range Trail in winter would be very
> serious indeed -- *not* to be undertaken without a solid grounding in
> ice climbing.  Also not to be undertaken if you don't enjoy snowshoeing
> up absurdly steep slopes.
> 
The group I reguarly climb with is heading up to the "flowed lands" in the
dacks on the first of February where they will make a bid for the top of
Marcy. Unfortunately, I won't be going along--it's my wife's birthday. Some
women just don't understand...

Thanks for the help.


Jim Hostetler 
HOSTETLR@bucknell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: psp@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (P.S. Powledge)
Subject: Re: Weather at Jtree
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Lincroft, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 01:50:58 GMT
Summary: Ripe FAQ material?

In article <C035AH.Cu4@inews.Intel.COM> brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky) writes:
>        Does anyone know what the weather is going to be this 
>weekend at jtree?

Does anybody else here think that a collection of weather, trail and 
avalanche condition phone numbers for major climbing areas would make
a good FAQ for rec.climbing? I'm willing to compile the list from net
readers, and then forward on to Eugene to add on to the existing FAQs.

You can help me by doing the following:

 - Don't followup this article with just a phone number. >>Send it to me
   directly<< at one of the addresses at the bottom of this posting.

 - Put the words WEATHER INFO (note all caps) in the Subject: line of 
   the email you're sending me.

 - In the body of the message, use the form

State/Province<tab>Nearest Town<tab>Area name and type of information
(eg, "Adirondack trail conditions")<tab>phone number including area code
<carriage return>

   on a line by itself. Using this form will make it much easier for me to
   compile the responses. If you have any additional information, put it
   on separate lines.

Don't send me the Gunks number or the ADK trail condition number; I
already have them. Also, isn't the weather service telnetable with on-line
forecasts? If someone will send along the information for this, I'll 
include it in the FAQ.

-- 
||| Polly Powledge
||| p.s.powledge@att.com			<- unchanged
||| att!pegasus!psp or psp@pegasus.att.com	<- new
From: lkampf@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: new topic
Date: 3 Jan 93 18:14:02 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

top o' the year to all concerned!
Just thought I'd start things off right with a new topic to get the geeks
riled.
Topic: Is climbing becoming overrun with boneheads because it is a very

photogenic sport and is also becoming very fashionable, or is it merely 
expanding in a natural way? (given that a large portion of any society is 
composed of boneheads) Also, I think a question of philosophy is inherent
in this, is man fundamentally good or is man fundamentally evil? (climbers or
boneheads, or both)
                  any  bites?
From: pggreen@juliet.caltech.edu (Green, Peter G.)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Joshua Tree climbing suggestions
Date: 22 Dec 1992 08:54 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: juliet.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

In article <1992Dec22.103307.1@stsci.edu>, kochte@stsci.edu writes...
>them suggestions of climbs to do out there, and what kind of pro is needed.
>They'll probably be climbing between 5.5 to 5.9 lead, 5.10 toprope. I was
Others have posted specific advice lists for JTree in the recent
past.  I would only remark that the new comprehensive guidebook
lists nearly 4000 routes (from 5.1 on up) plus a few hundred
boulder problems.  The index will have at least a hundred routes
at any of the desired grade with star ratings to boot.  Bring a
varied rack to the base of all non-bolted routes and then decide.
I have used everything from tinty nuts to #4 Camalot there.  For
bolted-only routes, bring courage and the ability to run-out great
distances at difficulties lower than the crux move.  Bring warm
and wind-proof clothes just in case.

-Peter Green
pgg@chemsys.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Distribution: world
From: Terry_D._Meyer@tcs.las-vegas.nv.us
Organization: Cyber Sanctum
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 07:04:44 PST
Subject: Red Rock Canyon, NV

Has anyone spent much time in the Red Rock Canyon Area outside of Las Vegas,
NV?
From: brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Weather at Jtree
Date: 30 Dec 92 18:42:17 GMT
Organization: intel corporation



        Does anyone know what the weather is going to be this 
weekend at jtree?

MichaeL
--
Michael Brodesky Internet Mbrodesky@sc9.Intel.com
UUCP : {pur-ee,qanad,oliveb,decwrl,hplabs}!intelca!mipos3!td2cad!brodesky
During the week I climb left to right. On weekends I climb up and down.
Rootbeer^2 = Beer ?             Were all in it together.
From: leo@ai.mit.edu (Leonardo C. Topa)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: finger boards
Date: 24 Dec 92 08:11:00 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: vivaldi.ai.mit.edu

I'm thinking of investing some money in a (possibly used) fingerboard.
Any recommendations? I know those made by Metolius, Lowe, Enterprises
and MacUsic. Any others?
--

Leonardo C. Topa
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Room E25-506
45 Carleton Street
Cambridge, MA 02139

internet: lct@ai.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: tdubois@nis.Naitc.Com (Tom Dubois)
Subject: Climbing in England?
Followup-To: tdubois@nis.naitc.com
Organization: AC Nielsen Co., Bannockburn IL
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 21:36:27 GMT

I just got assigned to an office in High Wycombe and I'm wondering what kind 
of climbing opportunities present themselves in England.  I know some of the 
coast line is quite rocky.  What's a good place for a moderate (US 5.8) climber
to go?  Is the season pretty much over until spring?  I don't want to sound
clueless, but I am.  Any advice would be appreciated.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: john@logiconultra.com (John Martyniak)
Subject: Re: Joshua Tree climbing suggestions
Organization: Logicon_Ultrasystems
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 01:26:10 GMT

In article <1992Dec22.103307.1@stsci.edu> kochte@stsci.edu writes:
>I've a couple of climbing friends who are getting married in a few months
>and want to take their honeymoon out at Joshua Tree, and as they have no
>access to the Network (much less email), they asked me to ask you to give
>them suggestions of climbs to do out there, and what kind of pro is  
needed.
>They'll probably be climbing between 5.5 to 5.9 lead, 5.10 toprope. I was
>out long, long ago, but didn't get enough exposure to the area to point  
them
>much of anywhere except Short Wall (where the only toprope-able 5.10 I am
>familiar with is Right V-Crack). Any responses you have for routes and/or
>pro I will pass on to them. Thanks!

One of the best (and only) multi pitch climbs at JT is Walk on the Wild  
Side.  It is rated at 5.8 (only one 5.8 move), I would say that the  
majority of the climb is 5.6-5.7.  It is all bolted face, except one place  
where it is a good idea to put a medium sized cam, (#2 or #3 camalot, I  
think).  Once you get to the top it has a great view of the valley.  Right  
around it there are some harder, multi pitch climbs as well.  

Also your friends should check out the Wonderland of rocks, there are a  
ton of climbs out there. 

Hope this helps,
John Martyniak
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: WILLS@LSTC2VM.stortek.com (Cheyenne Wills)
Subject: Re: RP's?
Organization: StorageTek SW Engineering
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:10:15 GMT

When ever I've used small RPs (#0s and #1s usually) I've always tried to
get several placements in and then load balance between them (either by
using runners or two seperate ropes).  I've always taken the approach that
"well at least it might slow me down abit" when placing them.
 
As for reusability, it would have to depend on the fall the nut took and
the condition of it afterwards.  As long as the wire doesn't appear damaged
and the nut itself wasn't deformed too much I would probably still use it
(again with the idea that it is just there to slow me down).
 
When placing micro-nuts (either brass, or steel) the things to remember:
 
 o Back it up if possible.  I believe that a #0 RP is rated around 900 lbs
   Figure that just to hold a 150 lb person the placement will be holding
   300 lbs.
 
 o When placing a micro-nut, remember that the rock will probably break
   away first, so watch out for shallow placements or ones that are
   dependant on some small feature in the rock.
 
 o When removing an RP don't bend the wire.  Use a nut-pick and press
   right on the nut itself.  Also if you should take a whipper on a micro-nut
   and the wire bends, don't try to unbend it.  You will only end up
   breaking some of the wire strands.
 
 o Back it up if possible (can't be said enough).  The recent post of
   gear pulling during a fall is always a possiblity.  Best way to safeguard
   is to place more then one piece if there is any doupt that one piece will
   fail.  Also always a good idea to back up a piece right before crux moves
   etc.
 
+---------------------------------------+-------------------------------+
| +-----+                               | Cheyenne Wills                |
| |     |       "From here on up it is  | Storage Technology Corporation|
| |  +--+--+      downhill all the way" | 2270 South 88th St.           |
| |  |  |  |                            | Louisville, Co. 80028-4232    |
| +--+--+  |                            |                               |
|    |     |                            | wills@lstc2vm.stortek.com     |
|    +-----+                            | cheyenne@witsend.stortek.com  |
+---------------------------------------+-------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: sc6933506@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg (CALVIN NG)
Subject: Climbing areas in Thailand South
Organization: Nanyang Technological University - Singapore
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 02:22:53 GMT

I went to Thailand for a climbing trip recently.  The place was fantastic,
there are nice beaches, inviting limestone, topless sun-bathers, delicious
seafood ...etc.

The climbing areas are in south Thailand, near to Phuket.  They are :
1)  Phra Naang Bay in Krabii state.  Access made by boat from Krabii town,
or from Phuket via Phi Phi Island.  There are several locals who climbs, and
will be more than willing to show you around.  The lifestyle is very peacefull
and quiet there.  The people are very friendly.  However, the cost is probably
slightly more expensive than on the mainland.  On the whole, the cost is still
cheap.

2)  Phi Phi Island, south of Phra Naang.  Access from Krabii town or Phuket by
boat.  The cliffs are by the sea too, but most of them are inaccessible at high 
tide, boats are required instead.  The boats used locally is called a
'long-tail', and they can be hired easily at the beach.

There is a guide book by Dominique Pontard (France) about the climbs that
I have mentioned above.  It will be a very great help to have it.


Because the climbing area is so close to the beach, we can enjoy a cooling
swim any time after a climb.  Snorkelling and diving is also a popular sport
here.

Accomodation is in abundant, they are still building more bungalows when I was 
there.  There are many chalets, and bungalows for rental.  The price is rather
inexpensive, and dependent on proximity to beach, and its facility.

Chinese, western and Thai food are available everywhere, at rather reasonable
rates.
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer:  The above is solely my personal opinion, and does not reflect
	the view of my club, school, friends, .......

					    email: SC6933506@NTUVAX.NTU.AC.SG

"Rather fail with Honour than Succeed by fraud"
From: martin_s@sn4608.oldham.gpsemi.com (Martin Shelley)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Scottish Winter Conditions
Keywords: snow
Date: 21 Dec 92 09:50:11 GMT
Distribution: uk
Organization: GEC Plessey Semiconductors

Good morning Britain,

	As I am migrating to Scotland for a week between Christmas and New
	Year (along with the rest of British climbers) I was wondering if 
	anyone could tell me what the conditions are like, particularly
	around the Glen Etive/Rannoch Moor/Glen Coe/Ben Nevis areas.

	Hopefully I'll finally get around to doing Tower Ridge in snow (if
	the Hogmanay celebrations don't prevent me!

	Have a good time all and take care out there,
		Cheers,
			Martin


/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
\               Martin Shelley  - GPS Oldham : Design Services             /
/                 Sun Network : shelley_ma@oldham.gpsemi.com.              \
\                                                                          / 
/       "Damn, who built this mountain anyway..." - Ralph Lindenfield      \
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
From: jdw6970@tamuts.tamu.edu (John David Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: info
Date: 21 Dec 92 19:54:02 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station
NNTP-Posting-Host: tamuts.tamu.edu

I will be in Escondido, CA and the surrounding San Diego area during the first week of January.  I'm interested in doing some climbing.  Any advice on where
to go in the area?  Anyone from the area interested in climbing with me?
I'm interested in top rope areas with 5.10 ratings at the highest.  
Please email me answers by Jan 1.  
email: jdw6970@tamuts.tamu.edu

john williams
From: degennar@bmsrs.usc.edu (Ray)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: TR's @ JTree
Date: 30 Dec 1992 11:52:42 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: bmsrs.usc.edu

I've been climbing for a while, but I've just started collecting gear.  My
rack is:
	8 quickdraws
	4 nuts (1,3,5,6)
	8 free biners
	and tons-o-webbing -- I mean lots

The only climbs in the guide books that are listed as top-ropes are ones that
the top is accessible and can't be lead.  What I'm looking for are climbs
that:
	in the 5.9 to 5.10+ range
	the top is accessable
	is less than a half a pitch
	has either some place to sink the pro I have, or a couple or three
		boulders that I can lasso with the webbing -- You'd be
		supprised at what I've lasso'ed in the past.

I know this will include a number of climbs that are usally lead.  Areas that
I can think of are: Short Wall and Sport Challenge Wall, but there has to be 
more.  

I also have the Sport Climbing guide to JTree, but there aren't a whole lot
of 5.7 to 5.8 climbs.  I don't feel comfortable taking my girlfriend on any
5.9 that is commiting.  She just completed her first 5.9 (short top rope) 
last Sat.  


-- 

Ray (DJ) DeGennaro II
degennar@scf.usc.edu
From: hallinan@minerva.harvard.edu (Peter W. Hallinan)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Ice Condx in NH
Date: 21 Dec 92 20:42:55 GMT
Organization: Harvard Robotics Lab, Harvard University

Chris Brown writes:

   I'm heading up to the White Mountains of NH over the Xmas week. Anyone have some firsthand reports on the ice climbing conditions at the following areas:

   Crawford Notch - Willey, Frankenstien, Avalon, Elephant Head Gully
   Huntington Ravine -

I was at Frankenstein on Sat. The ground was bare; climbs were thin.
Sun I spent at Tuckerman's, which is in great shape and well worth
visiting.  Climb's in Huntington's are supposedly pretty thin (I
didn't check) with hellish approaches. One fellow claimed Pinnacle was
fine. You could certainly try Pinnacle Buttress (a rock climb).
- Peter
--

Peter W. Hallinan			Division of Applied Sciences
hallinan@hrl.harvard.edu		Harvard University
					Cambridge, MA  02138
From: leo@ai.mit.edu (Leonardo C. Topa)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: ON PULL-UPS, TRAINING, AND RELATED THOUGHTS
Date: 24 Dec 92 00:07:48
Organization: MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory
	<1992Dec9.085923.11372@aber.ac.uk> <14008@ecs.soton.ac.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vivaldi.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: tpm@ecs's message of 18 Dec 92 10:42:03 GMT

In article <14008@ecs.soton.ac.uk> tpm@ecs (TP Monks) writes:

   From: tpm@ecs (TP Monks)
   Newsgroups: rec.climbing
   Date: 18 Dec 92 10:42:03 GMT

   azw@aber.ac.uk (Andrew Michael Woodward) writes:

   >>Not only that, in the time I'll spend not trying to do 1 armed pullups 
   >>I can be avoiding the hulking monsters that live, grunt and guff in our 
   >>uni gym and meet some intersting people in the pub.

   >Yeah, you'll also find the hulks cant climb. Muscle bulk is heavy, you need
   >small but efficient muscles. Ever noticed how the Ben Moons of this world look
   >like Somali refugees? It is also very funny to watch these apes being
   >able to do one arms till the cows come home, but not to lockoff properly cos
   >their biceps get in the way and they have forgotten to train for lockoffs.

forgive me for my ignorance, but what is a lock-off?
--

Leonardo C. Topa
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Room E25-506
45 Carleton Street
Cambridge, MA 02139

internet: lct@ai.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing