HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tih@barsoom.nhh.no (Tom Ivar Helbekkmo)
Subject: Small 4-cycle recommendations?
Organization: Norwegian School of Economics
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:55:04 GMT

I'd like to move from R/C gliders to powered planes, as this will make
it much more convenient for me to fly -- there's plenty of sites around
here where I can fly powered, while it's nearly impossible to find a
good slope most of the time...  I want a 4-cycle because it's quieter,
and I want a small one (just about as small as possible, actually),
because I'd like to start out using it to power a light trainer, and
then progress to more "lively" small models later.  Probably, something
that'll be able to replace a glow motor of around .15 to .25 would be
great -- then I'd start out by slightly overpowering a light trainer
to allow for the greater weight of the engine.  (Seeing as I'll be
scratch-building these models, mostly from M.A.N. plans, I'd think
this would be simple.)

Any recommendations of what to get -- or what to avoid?  Or, for that
matter, comments on the feasibility of my strategy?  :-)

-tih
--
Tom Ivar Helbekkmo, NHH, Bergen, Norway.  Telephone: +47-5-959205
Postmaster for domain nhh.no.   Internet mail: tih@barsoom.nhh.no
From: earl@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 10 Sep 92 08:49 CDT
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Airtronics / Futaba
Message-ID: <1195667306@trsvax>
Nf-ID: #R:bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu:8763:trsvax:1195667306:000:2692
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!earl    Sep 10 08:49:00 1992



/* ---------- "Airtronics / Futaba" ---------- */
Hello Net...
Problem:
My mother-in-law hates me.  I got my father-in-law interested in RC.  He now 
has a PT-40, Sturdy Birdie, and a Super Box Fly 40.
The problem is that he now has more planes than me.  :-(
--------------------------------------------------------
Question:
So, when my father-in-law made his order at Tower, they were out of Futaba 
Conquests.  He bought an Airtronics 4ch w/ trainer switch.  Does anyone know if
I can attach my Futaba training cable to my Futaba Conquest and his Airtronics 
radio???  I doubt it, but I though I'd ask...
Quesion #2:
He also has a spare Futaba s148 servo that he would like to use with his 
Airtronics radio.  All he needs to do is solder on a servo connector, but the 
Airtronics servo connector has the following scheme:
Airtronics:                                         Futaba:
             ---------black              black-------------
to connector ---------black              red--------------- to servo
             ---------black w/ red       white-------------
How do these connect?
Thanks
Matt
======================================================================
Matthew D. Marks                   ||   " In the race for quality,
Mechanical Engineering Department  ||     there is no finish line. "
The Ohio State University          ||
e-mail: marks.23@osu.edu           ||              - David T. Kearns
======================================================================
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Airtronics:   Black ----------  Signal --------  white    :Futaba
	      Black ----------  Ground --------  Black    
	      Black/Red ------  Power  --------  Red

   Basically, just reconnect the wires like so and your in business.
Airtronics uses a three wire ribbon cable for their cable, jsut be sure you
don't criss-cross the wires, unless it's intentional. The figure above assumes
your taking the Futaba wires and matching them up to the Airtronics wires, they
don't correcspond to the pinouts on the Futaba servo connector. If you look at
it you'll notice that basically, the power and ground wires are reversed between
the two systems.

***********************************************************************


<This information is provided by an individual and is not nor should be
 construed  as  being  provided  by  Radio  Shack or Tandy Corp.  Radio
 Shack/Tandy Corp has no obligation to support the information provided
 in  any way. > 
						
						Earl W. Bollinger
						@ <trsvax!earl>


"You were in the Clone Wars!", said Luke excitedly.
"Yes", replied Obi Wan, "I was a DOS programmer. But that was before the dark
 times, before OS2."
From: gt9351c@prism.gatech.EDU (God is Real)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Electric Flight
Date: 8 Sep 92 01:08:14 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <92248.124609IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU writes:
>
>    I was wondering if the electric helicopters are any good.
>I have RC cars, and in the quest for something different I came
>across and became interested in electric helicopters.  I would
>like to stay away from glow power because of the expense, smell,
>noise, etc.  Any feedback on electric helis would be greatly
>appreciated.

	I have been flying the Kalt Whisper for 6 months... my first bird..
  it is the best electric you can get today... very stable and sturdy...
  I've tuned it up so that it can fly over 10 minutes per pack..9.6v 1100mah
  I was crazy ... i didn't have an instructor... in 2 weeks... i was doing
  forward flight... i did have any rc experience eiterh... but if you have 
  any other questions... i here. :)
chow

-- 
David Chow  =)    I don't know half of you half as well as I should like and,
                  I like less than half of you half as well as you deserve.
Time flies like an arrow...				- Tolkien
Fruit flies like bananas...       Internet: gt9351c@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: GP CAP 21 queries
Date: 6 Sep 92 07:53:33 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi there
If anybody out there has any experience of either of the Great Planes CAP 21s
(.40 and .60 size), I am interested in your balancing and flying impressions.
I just got my .40 size in the air - to get anywhere near balance on the mark 
took 10 oz of lead in the front edge of the cowl, AND a 4.5oz brass prop nut!
Before that it balanced about 1.75" behind the mark!!! I have a YS 45 with pipe
, 14oz tank, battery under the tank, servoabout 3/4 forn part of wing saddle.
I have heard some guys say the 60 size is VERY twitchy until the CG is about 
1/2" in front of the mark.
Also, on the ailerons - one guy built his with the tip plates and blades as per
plans, and it was VERY twitchy in roll (unstable apparently), and it was planted
when it snapped out on approach. I built mine without the tip plates , as I 
could not see them surviving much hangar rash, and its roll behaviour is quite
ok at the spec throws - ie it does what its told, and is stable.
any comments??
jp
From: rbs@cyclops.micr.Virginia.EDU (Robert B. Sisk)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Scale rocket competition
Date: 15 Sep 92 13:48:28 GMT
Organization: University of Virginia

In article <1992Sep14.130610.14782@med.umich.edu> Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu (A. Roger Wilfong) writes:

STUFF DELETED

>BTW - Speaking of SNOAR NEWS, did Matt get an issue out intime for NARAM this
>year?

I thought Matt had stopped publishing SNOAR NEWS about a year ago?

Bob
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert B. Sisk  PhD			Internet: rbs@virginia.edu
NAR #53448				UUCP:     uunet!virginia!rbs
TRIPOLI #1583                           CIS:      71501.1651@CompuServe.COM
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: snouty@cix.compulink.co.uk (Phil South)
Subject: Exporting rocket motors
Reply-To: snouty@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 22:10:00 +0000

In the UK it's only possible to buy Estes motors over the counter in
model stores. Does anyone know of a reason why motors can't be bought 
from the US to the UK by mail order?

I have bought some rockets from the US, I own a number of Apogee
models, but they were marked "model hobby rocket product - inert" on
the mailer. Does this mean you can't export rocket propellant from
the US?

regards

Phil


 ============================================================
 Phil South                  | aka. "Snouty"
 FONE: +44 373 836889        | Freelance Writer
 snouty@compulink.co.uk      |===============================
 uad1135@dircon.com.UUCP     | No job too big, no FEE too big
 ============================================================

Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Astrocam 110 Film
Keywords: 400 speed 110 film still being produced?
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:02:54 GMT

In article <561@rml.UUCP> jack@rml.UUCP (jack hagerty) writes:

>Even if it did disappear, I wouldn't sweat it. I've had good luck flying 
>my Astrocam using 200 ASA film made by 3M (sold through K-Mart and other
>"house" brands). I just put the instructions "Please push one stop, camera 
>was set to 400" on the envelope and it's worked every time.

Hmmm 

How much extra do they charge for pushing? 

Theres also the Polaroid one-film-for-all-occasions film. I've
seen it sold pretty cheap at the local Big Lots, even at Kroger.
I believe you can shoot it anywhere form ASA 100-400 and it'll 
come out OK. You can even mix speeds on the roll.




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Astro-(disposable)-cam
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 06:32:02 GMT

shoppa@erin.caltech.edu (TIM SHOPPA) writes:
: 
: My current plan is to attach some sort of spring or battery-powered mechanism
: to the takeup spool, then clamp the shutter button down.  As the film
: is dragged across the little sprocket, the shutter will fire once each frame.
: As has been pointed out, the film will continue to move while the shutter
: is open, adding some blur to the picture.  If this is severe enough, I suppose
: I'll figure out how to stop the film while the shutter is open.  I'm not

Use some sort of reciprocating lever/cam to wind the film. Have the cam
trip the shutter when it reaches the end of a stroke. That way, the film
will not be moving.

I guarantee that you do not want any film motion - it is far worse than
camera motion.

: sure, but I believe the original packaging that came with my disposables
: said the shutter speed was 1/250th, but I'm not absolutely sure about this
: figure.  Of course, the slower the shutter speed, the less motion blur you'll
: get in the picture, whether from rocket movement or film movement.

Wrong - the faster the shutter speed, the less the blur. 

Bill

Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Ignition Systems
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 05:22:06 GMT

In article <6175@transfer.stratus.com| cdt@sw.stratus.com (C. D. Tavares) writes:
|In article <sedj0c600WB98vRmpk@andrew.cmu.edu|, lc2b+@andrew.cmu.edu (Lawrence Curcio) writes:
|| I was recently shocked to discover that several lines of guitar
|| amplifiers still use tubes exclusively. Hard to believe...
|
|No, no, not really.  The popular wisdom among musicians was that solid
|state amplifiers lacked the "warmth" and depth of tube-type amplifiers.
|Similar to the modern "CD vs. vinyl" debate.  Especially on the amps
|for low-side music such as basses or organ pedals.  Some ten years ago,
|I went shopping for such an amp.  None of the solid state amps in the
|same price range as the old Fender bass amp had any low end at all.

Well, apparently, tubes have a more "linear" behaviour when used as 
amplifiers. The gates (where you apply the signal) have very high 
impedances, unlike the base of a trasistor. Even an op amp, when set
up as a linear amp, has relatively low impedance, due to the bypass
resistor. 


|Has nothing to do with rockets.  I don't even know where to set the
|followups to, because I don't do any music newsgroups...!

Heh.. One of the more endearing qualities of the net are these little
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: rafferty@dish.jpl.nasa.gov (mike rafferty)
Subject: WANTED: PD Altitude Calc Pgm
Organization: Jet Propulsion Lab
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 00:29:14 GMT

Does anyone on the net know of any public domain HPR altitude calc.
programs available via FTP ?         

--
Michael H. Rafferty             | rafferty@dish.jpl.nasa.gov  
Jet Propulsion Laboratory       | Voice: (818) 306-6390      
4800 Oak Grove Dr, M/S 525-3681 | Fax:   (818) 306-6969     
Pasadena, Ca. 91109             |
From: paul@taniwha.UUCP (Paul Campbell)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: HPR motor hooks (was Re: Estes composites, etc...)
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:03:05 GMT
Organization: Taniwha Systems Design

In article <BtyI5y.C9H@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> jsivier@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Jonathon Sivier ) writes:

>   On this subject, does anyone have any suggestions/recomendations for systems
>to provide positive retention of the motor in the motor mount.  Something like
>the motor hooks used in 18 and 24mm motor mounts, only larger.  Are such things
>available or do you have to roll your own.  Every time I tape a reloadable in

I went to my local hardware store and bought one of those things that are
used for adding blind screws to walls without studs (there's a proper name
for these things but I forget what it is - I use the smallest ones available 
they are about 3/16 in dia and 1 inch long), you drill a hole in the end of
your rocket (this method kind of assumes that you have a plywood motor mount)
push in the blind bolt and tighten it, then loosen it and bolt on a hook made
out of piano wire to hold in your motor. The nice thing about this is that
you can retrofit this into an existing rocket.

On bigger rockets I build a couple of large bolts into the back of my rocket,
I use a large washer and a nut or two to hold the casing in.

	Paul

-- 
Paul Campbell    UUCP: ..!mtxinu!taniwha!paul     AppleLink: CAMPBELL.P

       "Most American's day to day experience of 'Family Values' is found in
	brightly colored fliers from such organisations as Target and K-Mart."
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: lhawkins@olaf.wellesley.edu (Lee Hawkins)
Subject: Re: Estes rumors
Organization: Wellesley College
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1992 00:31:25 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.181255.21708@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> rjungcla@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (R. M. Jungclas) writes:
>Recently heard some rumors on the 1993 Estes line that I'll pass
>along:
>
>
>    1.  Look for the Maxi Butes to return.  Maxi V-2, Maxi Honest John
>	and Maxi Pershing 1A.

Great!

>
>    2.  Look for the 1/100 Saturn 1B to be discontinued!

Aww Sh*t.

>
>    3.  Don't look for the large Saturn 1B that has been displayed at
>	a couple of manufactures shows (RCTHA '91,'90) and flown at the
>	last NARAM.   Estes has determined that it is too costly to
>	produce.

Just _how_ large is it?

>
>    4.  Look for the entire current Skill 1 kits, including old time
>	favorites, Big Bertha and Alphas, to be discontinued.  (My guess
>	is these will be replace with more E2X kits)

Well, although I have only one data point, it appears some of these kits
are being 'reassigned' to the Beta series.  I noticed that the last
shipment of Ninjas (an ex-Level 1) that the local hobby store got in were
in the Beta series packaging with a slightly new paint scheme.

Cheers,
--Lee
>
>
>R. Michael Jungclas                    UUCP:      att!ihlpb!rjungcla 
>AT&T Bell Labs - Naperville, IL.       Internet:  rjungcla@ihlpb.att.com


________________________________________________________________________________
R. Lee Hawkins					 lhawkins@annie.wellesley.edu
Department of Astronomy				 lhawkins@lucy.wellesley.edu
Whitin Observatory
Wellesley College                                   Ph. 617-283-2708
Wellesley, MA 02181                                 FAX 617-283-3642
________________________________________________________________________________
From: bo@hpfcmgw.FC.HP.COM (Bo Viger)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 20:29:20 GMT
Subject: Re: RE: RMS engines
Organization: HP Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets

|barrett@add.itg.ti.com writes:
|
|bo@hpfcmgw.FC.HP.COM (Bo Viger) writes:
                       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|
|[stuff deleted about losing reloadable motors]
|
|>> Yep, I get really bummed when I lose a RMS casing.  I lost two in
|>> one day once, and it really hurt.  The main thing is that even if you
|>> have more rockets, you may not be able to continue launching without
|>> your motors

Well, actually, no, I didn't (write it or lose 'em). While I've lost a rocket
with a G-80 expendable, I've never lost an RMS. I may have re-sent the
above as part of a previous posting I was commenting on, however.

|jsivier@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Jonathon Sivier ) writes:
|
|[Stuff deleted about motor clips and damaged falling motors}
|
|>> Some folks have already posted various methods.  I drill two holes in
|>> the aft casing and use steel wire to attach the engine to the aft
|>> bulkhead.  If you plan ahead, then you can add t-nuts to the
|>> aft bulkhead when your building the model, else you have to use
|>> threaded WOOD screw eyes and make sure they are epoxied in real good.
|
|Stu Barrett  TRA#1277  NAR# 4341

I use allen head hobby screws (black, avail. at most hobby stores) and either
t-nuts or threaded brass inserts. The former works well in all applications,
but especially in near-minimum diameter rockets.  I used these in a THOY
Wasp, which is 1.5" diameter w/ 29mm mount. That makes the centering rings 
less than 1/4" wide (from center hole to outside edge), which is too narrow
to use a threaded brass insert in. To make the t-nuts work, I ground away the
extra flange on opposite sides, drilled the appropriate holes in the centering
ring, and epoxyed them (2) into position (from the inside!) 180 degrees apart.

For the clamps, instead of using spring steel (best, IF you've got a Drummel
tool to work it), I used spring wire of which one end is wound 3-4 times around
the allen wrench that works with the screw you're about to use (then the screw
will pass perfectly thru the "cylinder" made by the wire), and the other
end has a "hook" bent into it that wraps around the bottom edge of the rear
(rms) bulkhead. Works great and beats the hell outta friction fitting!

Bo Viger
Tripoli #1864
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Tracking powder
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:54:47 GMT

barrett@add.itg.ti.com writes:
:   Has anyone figured out a way to put tracking powder (i.e.  carpenters
: chalk) in a rocket and not get it all over everything?  I currently use
: the procedure of just dumping 1/2 cup or so in the body tube so that it
: comes out when the chute ejects.  It stains the chute, and the outside
: of the rocket on occasion.  It is impossible to remove.
: 
:   I have been thinking of putting it into a plastic bag, but I want the
: contents to pour out at ejection and not have a bag full of powder
: falling down.
: 
:   I could get real complicated and make a separate chamber and use a
: timer/pryo-device to eject it.  But I would like to keep it simple (and
: clean!).
: 
: Any ideas?

I just wrap it in a few turns of tissue paper and place it on top of
the parachute. 

You can remove the residue with a vacuum cleaner - cut down the suction
so you don't damage the rocket. If the rocket is painted, the powder should
simply wipe off - it should not stain it.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Competition Motors in Europe
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 15:57:37 GMT

In article <Btvu0G.LAr@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:

>would go on to become top engineers. The modellers were given 
>enough materials to build motors, etc. while they were in 
>school.

I did mean "model AIRPLANE motors" for the above.

It seems that there _is_ (or was) a Soviet Estes. I went and re-read 
an article  written by Dan Rutherford (a famous Combat flier) about
his trip to (then) Leningrad maybe a year and a half ago. He visited 
a modelling school and found that modelling supplies were rationed
out to the students who participated in the hobby. He described 
rocket motors that were available to the school as (readily admitted)
copies of Estes designs. 

It was interesting in that while the Soviet state encouraged modelling
and competition to the point of financing trips and providing materials,
the competitors weren't actually professionals in the sense of getting
paid to make and fly models.






-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: rjungcla@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (R. M. Jungclas)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Estes rumors
Date: 14 Sep 92 18:12:55 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs - Naperville, IL.

Recently heard some rumors on the 1993 Estes line that I'll pass
along:


    1.  Look for the Maxi Butes to return.  Maxi V-2, Maxi Honest John
	and Maxi Pershing 1A.

    2.  Look for the 1/100 Saturn 1B to be discontinued!

    3.  Don't look for the large Saturn 1B that has been displayed at
	a couple of manufactures shows (RCTHA '91,'90) and flown at the
	last NARAM.   Estes has determined that it is too costly to
	produce.

    4.  Look for the entire current Skill 1 kits, including old time
	favorites, Big Bertha and Alphas, to be discontinued.  (My guess
	is these will be replace with more E2X kits)


R. Michael Jungclas                    UUCP:      att!ihlpb!rjungcla 
AT&T Bell Labs - Naperville, IL.       Internet:  rjungcla@ihlpb.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
From: wayne@uva386.schools.virginia.edu (Tony Wayne)
Subject: Kite physics Needed
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network (Charlottesville)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 92 02:33:24 GMT

I'm looking for some
good sources that can describe some of the physics in kite
flying.  A lot of what I know comes from remedial introductions
with a _little- math and a _few_ concepts sprinkled with
applying some physics.  I'm looking for more
so I can possible write a Kite CAD & flight simulator.  Any
suggestions?
-Tony
From: cdt@sw.stratus.com (C. D. Tavares)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Subject: Re: Competition Motors in Europe
Date: 8 Sep 92 17:31:38 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.

In article <Bu7to1.KH7@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:

> It was interesting in that while the Soviet state encouraged modelling
> and competition to the point of financing trips and providing materials,
> the competitors weren't actually professionals in the sense of getting
> paid to make and fly models.

It's not clear what "getting paid" means in a Socialist country.  For 
example, in Bulgaria, many of their top modelers received commissions in
the military, with minimal assigned duties other than modeling.
-- 

cdt@pdp.sw.stratus.com      --If you believe that I speak for my company,
OR cdt@vos.stratus.com        write today for my special Investors' Packet...
Organization: Doctoral student, Urban and Public Affairs, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
Date: Tue,  8 Sep 1992 12:25:20 -0400 
From: Lawrence Curcio <lc2b+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: 3-Observer Tracking (Long)

My tracking tests were limited by field dimensions available in
Pitsburgh, I'm afraid. This problem is likely common - all the more
reason for finding a non-optical method. 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets