HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jacobson5821@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: RE: Gripmaster Finger Exerciser
Date: 22 Jan 93 10:18:57 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Concerning the Gripmaster.  Does anyone out there think it has helped them
become less fatiqued on a climb?  I have thought about getting one, but doubt
that there's enough resistance to it.  I would like to hear replies.
                                Paul Jacobson
P.S.  I believe that they are made with different tensions.  With this in mind,
the "fretmaster" would more than likely be quite abit easier (to increase
speed) than one built for rock climbers.
From: fuhrmann@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Robert Fuhrmann)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Need suggestions on purchasing head-lamps
Date: 27 Jan 93 02:25:37 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server


sounds like you're referring to a Petzl. my friend loves his and
i'm ready to buy one myself. beware--it's not cheap.

robert (fuhr@hpocbw1.sj.hp.com)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: jeffw@or.credence.com (Jeff Winslow)
Subject: Re: Smelly Shoes
Organization: Credence Systems Corp. Beaverton, OR
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 01:08:51 GMT

In article <YfLOEXO00iV204gVpb@andrew.cmu.edu> Mark Jakubowycz <mj00+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>
>Last month there was a posing about how to keep climbing shoes from
>smelling. I don't recall seing an answer. Anyone have any ideas? 

This is a good use for old and damaged sling material. You just stuff their
noses full of it.

Sorry - it's 5PM and Friday.

					Jeff Winslow
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: bclegg@actrix.gen.nz (Bob Clegg)
Subject: Chest Harness
Organization: Actrix Information Exchange
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 11:05:15 GMT

Took a fall the other day, when the rope took up my bottom half
stopped but my top half kept going sideways, result: A crushed,
compressed? rib. Wouldn't have happened if I had been wearing a
chest harness. 
When I get back into action I am thinking of wearing one as i can't
think of any other way i could have prevented it. I haven't got the
instincts of a cat so that i don't always fall correctly.
Anybody had similiar experiences?
Yeh, Yeh, I know, you don't fall right? :-)
From: godfrey@rtf.bt.co.uk (Andrew Godfrey)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing Giffs - Sorry
Date: 21 Jan 93 18:18:41 GMT
Distribution: uk
Organization: BT Customer Systems, Brighton, UK

I know that this has been asked many times before but could some one point
me in the direction of/send me some climbing giffs.

Thanks
Andy..

-- 
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Andrew Godfrey, BT Customer Systems, Brighton, UK.          godfrey@rtf.bt.co.uk
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: shyen@bnl.gov (Sharon Yen)
Subject: climbing GIF/bitmap files
Reply-To: shyen@bnl.gov
Organization: Brookhaven National Laboratory
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 18:05:29 GMT

Hi!

I was wondering if any of you climbers out there who happen
to have or know where I can get a GIF or bitmap file with
some nice rock climbing scene in it.  I like to display such
GIF on my computer screen background via xloadimage or xsetroot
commands.  Tell me the ftp site or e-mail (uuencode) the 
files.  

Thanks in advance.

Sharon Yen (yen@bnl.gov or shyen@bnl.gov)



Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: Michael.Matti@launchpad.unc.edu (Michael Matti)
Subject: 4th Annual Dixie Rock Sport Climbing Competition
Summary: Be there or be square.
Keywords: NC, Competition, Dixie, Sport
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:02:27 GMT

ANNOUNCEMENT
 
What:        Fourth Annual Dixie Rock Sport Climbing Competition
When:        February 27, 1993
Where:       Chapel Hill Community Center
             120 South Estes Drive
             Chapel Hill, NC  27514
Phone:       (919) 968-2784
Cost:        $26.50  ($22 for Orange county residents)  Includes T-shirt.
Limit:       135 competitors.  Move fast.
 
DETAILS
 
Best to register in advance.  On-site registration will be held at the
Chapel Hill Community Center on South Estes Drive from 7:00 a.m. to
7:45 a.m., depending on availability of spaces.  If you are hoping to
register on-site at least call on Friday, February 26 to see if any
spaces are still available.
 
There will be three divisions - Recreational, Intermediate and
Competitive.  Competitors will be asked asked their expertise at
registration, then notified of their division on the day of the event. 
Prizes to 1st, 2nd and 3rd place men and women in each division. 
Additional prizes to 1st and 2nd place men and women in age
categories.  There will also be door prizes and a raffle.
 
All climbs will be top-roped.  All competitors may attempt all six
open qualification routes.  Competitors' scores will be determined by
their combined scores on those routes; division finalists will have to
on-site new routes in the evening.
 
Free camping in the Community Center on Friday and Saturday, February
26 & 27.  Free showers and parking.
 
For a registration form or more information call the Chapel Hill Parks
and Recreation Department at (919) 968-2784.  When you return the
registration (with payment) you'll get a packet including a map,
restaurant and lodging info, rules and regulations, etc.  Cheques will
be returned if the competition is full.
 
Finally, as a personal aside, I participated in last year's event and
had a blast.  The wide open qualifying routes at various levels of
difficulty means that even us hacks can stay engaged for the day. 
Highly recommended, especially if you're in the southeast.
 
_____________________________________________________________________
michael    .    matti    @    bbs    .    oit    .    unc    .    edu
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Ice Accident in NE
Date: 22 Jan 1993 20:24:59 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com
Keywords: Accident

Interesting item on morning new this AM.

To paraphrase:

"A 35 year old ice climber was rescued at dawn today (1/22/93) in Huntington Ravine on Mt Washington. He had fallen approximately 40 feet at about 1:30 AM and dangled on his rope until rescuers could reach him several hours later.

His injuries included a broken nose, a broken finger, and exposure."

Now that's an ALPINE START on Mt. Washington!!

CB
From: lkampf@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: AAC?
Date: 21 Jan 93 22:23:50 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

Does anyone have the address of, or info pertaining to, the AAC? If so,
please Email me, Thanks
                             LKAMPF@desire.wright.edu
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Need suggestions on purchasing head-lam
Date: 27 Jan 1993 19:25:04 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com

If you do lots of cold WX stuff, consider getting a lamp that can use a lithium battery. I've got a IME headlamp which accepts 1 lithium cell or 4 AA alkalines. (You do need to change the bulb according to the cell you use.) The going rate for lithium cell is about $20.)

But in really cold WX, I find that the lithium cells burns alot longer than alkalines -- a nice feature if you get caught doing a prolonged descent (or approach) in dark. For camping, etc, I suppose it does not make much difference.

CB
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andrew Michael Woodward)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Is Climbing An Individual Sport?
Date: 25 Jan 93 13:34:02 GMT
Organization: University of Wales, Aberystwyth


NO

Maybe I missed the point of this, coming in on it halfway, but I have always
found climbers see themselves as individualists. They are, in fact, no more
so than any other group, bank clerks included. This observation is not
grade specific - in fact often the hardest climbers, having the most ego
invested, can least afford individuality..
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: tovey@mullauna.cs.mu.OZ.AU (Gadget)
Subject: Re: Glue on holds...
Organization: Computer Science, University of Melbourne, Australia
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 05:54:27 GMT

47.366::opland@fishery.honeywell.com writes:

>> From: mc7z+@andrew.cmu.edu (Michael Minhall Chang)
>> Subject: Glue on holds.
>> Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
>>
>> Anyone,
>>
>> I am interested in putting up artificial holds on a wall, but the only
>> walls around are made from sandstone blocks.  Will pc-7 impregnate the
>> sandstone or will it just pull it off?

>This is a hard call to make. When we were gluing holds on concrete, we
>sometimes lost holds when the actual concrete pulled away from the aggregate.

On a nearby wall, holds are glued onto concrete. The wall is overhanging
at about 30-35 degrees (very steep). The glue itself is very strong, but
the surface of the concrete does pull away from time to time. As a result
all of the holds are now bolted as well. The bolts aren't super tight,
but at least they avoid a nasty fall when the glue/concrete breaks.

gadget
Matt Tovey             |  Commpower Engineering | tovey@mullauna.cs.mu.OZ.AU
Voice: 61-3-419-4716   |  Melbourne,            | "Tomorrow's ideas on
Fax:   61-3-419-4716   |  Australia.            |       yesterday's technology"
Hone:  61-3-417-6528   |                        |
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: saari@cray.com (Amy Saari)
Subject: Re: Welcome to Russia,Elbrus from the North, wild nature
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 23 Jan 93 15:57:00 CST

In article <199301211657.AA23531@newcom.kiae.su> mike@skfgvc.pyatigorsk.su writes:
>
>                       Welcome to Russia!
[stuff deleted]
>                     PROGRAMME OF THE ASCENT
>   Day 1:  Arrival to the Mineralny Vody's   airport.   30-minute
>           bus-ride   to   the   neighbouring   spa   Pyatigorsk.
>           Accommodation in the best-quality sanitariums.
                                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

climbers should fit right in...

as
-- 
==============================================================================
 Amy Saari                                amy.saari@cray.com
 Cray Research, Inc.                        (612) 683-5739  
 Eagan, MN  55121                    never spit on your belayer...
From: john@aquarius.unm.edu (John Prentice)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: AAC climbing insurance?
Date: 21 Jan 1993 18:04:05 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Physics & Astro, University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: aquarius.unm.edu

Last year, the American Alpine Club arranged for members to have climbing 
insurance through the Carl Weil Insurance agency in Kiowa, CO.  There was
some basic coverage that came with your membership, and then you could
pay for extra coverage of specific trips.  I just sent these guys a check
to cover an upcoming trip, only to find that the number the AAC gave me
for them is no longer in service.  There appears to be no Carl Weil
Insurance even operating in that region of Colorado anymore.  Anyone
know what is going on with the AAC insurance program?

Thanks!

John
-- 
Dr. John K. Prentice                      
Quetzal Computational Associates    
3200 Carlisle N.E., Albuquerque, NM   87110-1664  USA
Phone: 505-889-4543  E-mail: quetzal@aip.org -or- jkprent@cs.sandia.gov
From: coomer@ocf.berkeley.edu (Eric Coomer)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Yosemite in March
Date: 28 Jan 1993 17:25:33 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: hailstorm.berkeley.edu

I'm new to the west coast and I have a few questions about
yosemite.  I'm trying to work out a trip there during the 
week of March 22.  I'd like to know if the weather will be 
very conducive to climbing or if it will still be a bit cold.
I'd also like any info on camping(CHEAP!) in the valley at that
time of year.  You know basics like how crowded, how cold, 
recommended routes that time of year.

Thanks,

Eric
From: elmar@ocf.berkeley.edu (Elmar Stefke)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: CRAGMONT BOLTING
Date: 27 Jan 1993 18:40:44 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
Distribution: ba
NNTP-Posting-Host: earthquake.berkeley.edu

I recently checked out Cragmont (Berkeley) after a period of not climbing
there, and to my horror found that the easy climbs on the East side had
bolted toprope anchors.  Does anybody know who is responsible for this
absolute bullshit???  These bolts are more then an eyesore, they are comletely
UNNECESSARY!  People have been toproping and bouldering/soloing at Cragmont
since the 1930's without resorting to the use of bolts (except for early aid
routes).  The East side routes have multiple possibilities for natural anchors
(slinging trees, exposed roots, and rocks) in addition to providing a crack
for pro on the left side of the face.  I can't imagine why there should be
bolts.  They are more convenient (speak faster), but does that make them  
in anyway necessary?  Did somebody live out their first practice bolt
fantasy?  Are they safer (not with all the other anchors available)?
Elmar Stefke

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: Rob_Prior@mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Prior)
Subject: Climbing in Kansas
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 07:24:12 GMT

I know, I know... Kansas isn't the most mountainous part of the U.S., but I
didn't pick the destination...

I was wondering if there is anything in Witchita Kansas that is taller than a
cornstalk that's worth climbing... I'll be there in May for about 2 weeks and
will probably have some time on my hands...

E-Mail would be nice, or just reply here.

Thanks in advance,
Rob

--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rob Prior - President, Still Animation Logo Design, Burnaby, BC, CANADA!!!
email: a634@mindlink.uucp   |
snail: 4874 Greentree Place |     This space intentionally left blank
       Burnaby, BC, V5G 3V5 |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Wanted: Ice gear
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:32:26 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Gear wanted....

From my previous post, one might infer that I am in the market for
some new ice gear. One might be right. (A new right shoulder too,
but I guess that's out of the question). I need a pick/hammer and
a pick/adze. Short tools for climbing only. I am also interested in
picking up a pair of step-in crampons that will fit a (US) 8 1/2
Koflach boot.
I'm a little strapped for cash right now, but I am also a little short
on serviceable equipment :-)
If anyone has anything that might be suitable that they want to sell,
please mail me.

bobs@biocat.ncdmf.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: mueller@isi.ethz.ch (Daniel Mueller)
Subject: Re: South of France 
Organization: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH), Zurich, CH
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Distribution: w
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 08:09:19 GMT

Erich Ruetsche (eru@watson.ibm.com) wrote:
: Buoux: the camping place is right in the city of Apt. In the 'Camping Municipal' 

I heard that the camping place in Apt is closed this year during winter
(I don't know exactly how long).

Other very large climbing areas besides Buoux and Verdon are Monaco and 
St.Jeannet (behind Nice). There are many small but very fine areas
almost everywhere where you find a "falaise" not more than ten minutes
walking from the next road...

Dani 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: ejensen@alchemy.chem.utoronto.ca (Erik Jensen)
Subject: Re: rappel accidents
Organization: University of Toronto Chemistry Department
 I seem to recall that one of the pioneers of rock climbing in Squamish
 (the Grand Wall, Slab Alley and others) died from rapping off the end 
 of a rope in Yosemite not so many years later. His name escapes me, but
 there is a memorial to him on the Apron in Squamish at the top of the 
 North Apron.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:04:10 GMT
From: sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Partners wanted: Denver area
Date: 24 Jan 93 13:58:31 MDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Utah State University

Partners wanted:
        Indoor walls now,
        Real rocks when the weather gets better,
        Denver area.
As I've mentioned before, my SO is in Denver for a while :-(. She mentioned
recently that she still hasn't met any climbers through her work/study. 
She is interested in getting back into it in the gyms for a couple of months
and getting out reasonably frequently spring/summer. If anyone is interested
in meeting with her, email me and I will pass on a phone #. She intends going
to paradise gym next sunday (Jan 31?). She doesn't like the cold too much,
and *hates* ice climbing.
         Thanks if anyone is interested,
Bob.
(hopefully distribution limited post!)
bobs@biocat.ncdmf.usu.edu
From: mcrk@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Matt McCormick)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: high end climbing shoes
Date: 27 Jan 93 17:07:28 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

I have been thinking about a new pair of climbing shoes.  One can never have
enough shoes afterall.  I am looking for a pair of very sensitive slipper
like shoes that will be effective on very steep routes and roof routes.
Something that will let me get my toes dug into holds.  So I am thinking
that the 5.10 UFOs are a good choice.  I have known a lot of people who rave
about them for precisely these applications.  I guess a lot of climbiners
are going to Boreals these days too, but I don't know much about their
shoes.  5.10 does not have the best quality or the most durable shoe around
but their rubber is obviously very good and I think that their shoe designs
are very good.  It is too bad they can't improve their quality control.  It
is amazing to me that a $130 pair of shoes will really last no more than a
season or two of hard climbing.  So what are people's ideas about shoes of
this sort?
 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: jahn@guinness.Idbsu.EDU (Greg Jahn)
Subject: Re: Rename rec.climbing to rec.outdoors.climbing
Reply-To: jahn@guinness.idbsu.edu
Organization: BSU - Data Center
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 21:41:07 GMT


I agree with the comment I read stating something to the effect
that this is a solution looking for a problem.

But it gets me in the mood ... I suggest we break the group up
into rec.lycra.climbing, and rec.nolycra.climbing, with 
potentially a rec.nolycra.nochalk.climbing group.

post to news.groups???? But, I don't read news.groups
--
Greg Jahn Boise State Univ.| "Spoils of war are spoils of war,
/ jahn@guinness.idbsu.edu /|  says junk man, owner of the junk. 
/ dosjahn@idbsu.bitnet    /|  Grafitti man's got something to
/ (208)385-3891.thephone  /|  say. "   - John Trudell

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: Is Climbing An Individual Sport?
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 18:21:05 GMT

In article <1993Jan15.162029.16986@mcnc.org> ekp@mcnc.org (Edward Pavelchek) writes:
>In article <1993Jan15.073816.27555@pdxsq1.nerco.com> ledererc@pdxsq1.nerco.com (Corey Lederer (6471) ) writes:
>>Is climbing an individual sport with you against yourself, or is it a team
>>sport with you and your partner in a tandem effort to help each other reach
>>the top?
>
>
>It depends. A day sport cragging is pretty much all for myself, and
>against my companions.  An all day (or my only multi-day) climb is team
>all the way.  Aint this normal?

  To be competetive with your companions is understandable, but
I don't think it is preferable (at least for me). Then someone
has to "lose". If I want that, I'll play tennis or something. No 
doubt some of you think this is because I must "lose" at climbing
alot to feel this way. This is not true. I just feel that the most
important thing for me in climbing is to have fun. Without that
I would stop doing it.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: Is Climbing An Individual Sport?
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 22:49:58 GMT

In article <30169@optima.cs.arizona.edu> evans@cs.arizona.edu
(Richard C. Evans) writes:
>>A person climbs a 5.11 crack.
	Example case from the early 70s shortened.

>This is going to sound like a lecture by the Archangel Royal Robbins.
>It seems
>to me that if a person puts in a reasonable 5.11 lead (with pro), then that is
>what the route is.  By nailing or bolting, this elegant lead is minimmized and
>spoiled.  Best to leave it as a most-worthy goal for a later time.

Fine.  That's the Joe Brown argument ("Better we raise our skill than
lower the climb"), and I am for it.  But that assumes communication either
via word of mouth or something like a guide book.  People have nailed and
bolted routes post-facto simply because of not knowing, but another voice
(I'll take a devil's advocate position) would say: Hey!  What ever happened
to the "Freedom" of the so called hills?  Any person should be allowed to
do just what EVER they choose.  Who gives a care and who says so for a
piece of rock?  After all in the words of some: bolts are better than
placed pro [remember: I'm the devil in this one, I will assume you have
seen this in earlier posts or published articles], of in the case of
free climbing blank faces and performing chipping and bolting: These blank
faces are just diamonds in the rough.  After all "a National Park is a People's
Park" there are too many regulations, laws and restrictions in the world,
and your losing your right to add protection in the form of pins or bolts
is just government intrusion in private lives.  If a guy does a free-solo,
first ascent, then does that mean all subsequent ascents have to be
free-solo first ascents?  A slew of Fairview dome routes at high standard
are this way.  Does the Devil care to bolt these say in the name of safety?
Not on your life.

Nothing personal, it's just that the regular devils' have posted any of this
yet.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Resident Cynic, Rock of Ages Home for Retired Hackers
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
Second Favorite email message: Returned mail: Cannot send message for 3 days
A Ref: Mathematics and Plausible Reasoning, vol. 1, G. Polya
From: rigg@valeron.che.wisc.edu (Tim Rigg)
Subject: Rename rec.climbing to rec.outdoors.climbing
Organization: University of Wisconsin-Madison, Chemical Engineering
Date: 25 Jan 93 11:38:17

Recently, an official RFD (Request For Discussion) was posted to
several group suggesting that several groups be moved to the
rec.outdoors. hierarchy which currently contains just
rec.outdoors.fishing.

If you have any comments about renaming this group, please post them
to news.groups.  Followups to this group and email will not be
considered.  The guidelines state that the official discussion must
take place in news.groups.

tim
--
    ...  Then they came for me,
	   and by that time there was no one
	     left to speak up for me. (Rev. Martin Niemoller, 1945)