HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dclayton@bnr.ca (Don Clayton)
Subject: Re: Pontiac Fiero problems?
Keywords: Fiero, problems
Reply-To: dclayton@bnr.ca (Don Clayton)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 13:42:32 GMT

In article <1992Oct4.193618.13440@cs.sfu.ca>, ammann@cs.sfu.ca (Ammann Manuel) writes:
|> I've been offered two Pontiac Fieros.
|> 
|> 84 4cyl., loaded, emergency brake broken, 102,000km
|> for about Can$2500
|> 
|> 87 4cyl, 5speed, NOT loaded, some scratches,
|> 109,000km for about Can$3000
|> 
|> Both cars have no obvious other problems than the
|> ones mentioned above.
|> The prices look ok to me. Other opinions?
|> 
|> NOW:
|> How good are Fieros mechanically? Are they 
|> high-maintenance cars? Not reliable?
|> What are typical problems?
|> 
|> Would be great to find out about these things
|> before buying one. Your  help is appreciated.

I had a 1984 SE and in three years I replaced 3 Alternators, a Started, a clutch,
a transmission, and an oxigenator (sp?) (to my suprise - NON of it was covered by
the warrantee).  I also had 3 of my body panels *snap* in low impact collisions and
GM actually used bondo to fix one (that was the final straw).  I would highly
recomend staying as far away from Pointiac, and Fieros as possible.  GM stopped
selling them because they were crap, didn't hold their value (I paid $15,000 for
mine new and it was written off at $4800 two years latter, and I was lucky as
the street value was $3500) and so many of them were written off in low impact
collisions (like mine) that the insurrance companies wouldn't touch them.

Total, unbelievable CRAP!

Don Clayton
a.k.a. Rear-Adm. Maverick, DM of the Drow
My brain, my thoughts, my words.
If I had a million dollars, I'd buy you a K-car (a nice reliant automobile),
From: sly9y@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: About my clutch?
Date: 2 Oct 92 11:24:34 MDT
Followup-To: rec.autos
Organization: Utah State University

In article <j1moody-300992031848@lafmacconsultant.lafortune.lab.nd.edu>, j1moody@darwin.cc.nd.edu (Humpty Dumpty) writes:
> I'm worried about the clutch in my 1983 Nissan Sentra.
> The pedal pushes easily to the floor. It's hard to get it into reverse.
> And now I seem to be having a loss in power. It just doesn't have
> the pick-up it had several months ago.I push on the gas, the engine
> roars like it's supposed to, but the car doesn't move like it is supposed
> to. It's almost as if I'm driving on ice. 
> Is this my clutch? Do I need a fly-wheel adjustment?
> How much should this cost?
> Thank you much.

Your clutch is gone.  Take it to a reputable tranny shop, and have them put in
new parts.  They cost more, but it is well worth it.  I have had rebuilt parts 
last less than one year,  then you have to go in a do it all over again.
Hopefully, you wont have to pay more than $500 dollars, but that is just a 
ballpark estimate.  Call the shops in town and see

Pete
sly9y@cc.usu.edu
> 
> Joe
>
From: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: flat engines
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:12:47 GMT
Reply-To: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Organization: UniSQL, Inc., Austin, Texas, USA

In article <Oct06.055649.20215@engr.washington.edu> eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>disappear.  Horizontally opposed engines are the best kind to have, whether
>they number 2 cylinders, 4, 6 or even 12; but they are very expensive.."

	Why?




Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: djs1539@cc.utah.edu (SEGAL, DAVID JAY)
Subject: New camshaft = new lifters?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
Date: 26 Sep 1992 19:49 MST  

This article was probably generated by a buggy news reader.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jbn@photon.com (Joe Naiman)
Subject: Re: Ticket for running stop sign
Organization: Photon Research Associates, Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 15:53:40 GMT

I got a warning a couple of years ago for a rolling stop.  Since the
police officer claimed that I didn't stop, I told the truth when I said
that I did stop, and he gave me the benefit of the doubt.  (He also told
me that the residents of that neighborhood wanted the police to enforce
such things, so if you're ever in San Diego, try to avoid the Bird Rock
area of La Jolla.)

Had I been ticketed, I would have challenged the law itself in court.
Since the basis of upholding a law as consitutional is that it derives
a public benefit, I would have claimed that the rolling stop law provides
no public benefit, since failure to yield laws, etc., are already in
effect in case someone was coming the other way (it was about 11:00 p.m.).

I also would have pointed out the negative side of such a law - the wear
and tear on brakes, which is a safety hazard.  I would have addressed the
closest precendent, the acceptance of the baseball balk rule (which requires
the pitcher to come to a complete stop), noting that the purpose of the
balk rule was to prevent deception whereas nobody is deceived by a rolling
stop.

I would have concluded by comparing the rolling stop with the right turn
on red, asking the judge to declare the rolling stop law unconstitutional
and making the rolling stop the turn on red of the 90's.

Whether this would have worked, I couldn't tell you.  But if I ever get a
ticket for a rolling stop, this is my plan of action.

Joe Naiman

Xref: sparky rec.autos:23280 rec.autos.tech:13513
From: msh8@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Mukul Sharma)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: newsgroup for 4x4 trucks?
Date: 4 Oct 92 20:55:39 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Info on '92 Honda Civic DX requested 
Summary: 
Expires: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)
Keywords:

Dear Fellow Netters:
	
I am interested in buying a '92 Honda Civic DX and would like to
get your input on the following:

	(1) any potential problems with this car (CR says it is extremely
reliable), and 
	
	(2) correct price for a basic 4DR w/ automatic transmission
(I have been quoted a price of $11,840).
	
	Thanks in advance!
						-mukul
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
	QOD: I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure. :-)
				
				Mukul Sharma
				Internet: msh8@troi.cc.rochester.edu
				Bitnet: msh8%troi.cc.rochester.edu@uorvm
From: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: sho limits
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:46:34 GMT
Reply-To: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Organization: UniSQL, Inc., Austin, Texas, USA

In article <1992Oct5.162339.21757@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
>|> > of course, when you get off the pedal it switches to severe oversteer.
>|> Well, this isn't the car's fault per se, any FWD car will do this.
>ANY car will do this with improper tire inflation.

	Great Ghu.

	The tires were fine.  

	*ANY* FWD car won't do this.  For instance, that thrice-damned
Saab I used to own would docilely come back on line if it started to plow
in a corner and you lifted gently.  

	It's my point that the SHO is trickier at the limits than one might
expect.  It progresses through mild understeer to pretty neutral to sudden
fatal understeer and when the front tires hook back up they grab much harder
than you think they will, leading to sudden fatal _over_steer.  I suspect this
is more a factor of the 60/40 weight distribution than of which wheels are 
driven.

>Get a grip folks!

	Sorry, my tires must be underinflated.
								wr
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: 6310550@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: stainproofing seats & carpeting ?
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 21:52:03 GMT


I just bought a 1993 Caravan & would like to stainproof the seats
and carpeting to protect them from my two kids.  Does anybody have
any recommendations ?  The dealer was pushing stuff they put on
but was charging $500 !!!!  Has anybody tried the spray on scotch-
guard ?  How well does it hold up ?

Thanks,

Deb
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: brad@buck.viewlogic.com (Bradford Kellogg)
Subject: Theft prevention (was Re: taking fuses out)
Originator: brad@buck
Organization: Viewlogic Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 17:27:08 GMT


In article <1992Oct1.192033.14322@wam.umd.edu>, jailbird@next03wor.wam.umd.edu (serial killer) writes:
|> 
|> Hey guys anybody ever take a fuse out to protect someone from stealing  
|> your car.  I was thniking if there's a fuel pump fuse I can take it out 
|> when I get out of my car and then put it back when I want to drive.
|> I figure if anyone steals the car they wont get very far since the only  
|> fuel they'll be able to use is in the fuel line.  It seems that this is  
|> the cheapest way to do it without installing an alarm.
|> Any suggestions?

There are several things you can do that will prevent the car from
running. Taking the fuse for the fuel pump would, as you say, prevent
the rascals from getting very far if anywhere, assumimg you have an 
electric fuel pump. Taking the fuse for the fuel injection system (if you 
are not carbureted) would prevent the car from starting at all. Or you could 
take the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. On modern cars with 
distributorless ignitions, there are equivalent acts of sabotage you can do.

More convenient, but requiring a little work would be to install one or
more ignition or battery kill switches. If you installed a battery cutoff
switch, everything would be dead, which may or may not be a problem
depending on installed accessories. A switch on the wire that carries
power to the solenoid would be effective, particularly if you combined
it with a switch on the line which feeds power to the coil, to prevent
push starting.

If you do install switches, put them where they can't be seen.

Better yet, you could try the James Bond technique, where simply
attempting to get in causes the car to explode.

Cheers
From: achin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Augustine C Chin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Honda Civic
Date: 6 Oct 92 20:02:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: magnus.CMM.0.90.4.718401739.achin
Organization: The Ohio State University


Hi,

	Thank you all for replying my question about the 92 and 93 Civic.

	However, a lot of people complained about clutch problems, brake
problems and the dash board shivering too much, even when the car only had a
few thousand miles on it.

	I would appreicate it if anyone has any comments about that.

	Thanks in advance.

Augustine
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: cinnes@gucis.cit.gu.edu.au (Christopher Innes)
Subject: Re: Horsepower
Organization: Griffith University, Brisbane, Australia.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 06:03:31 GMT

hacksaw@cellar.org (Hacksaw) writes:


>   How does one go about figuring out how much horsepower his engine can 
>deliver? I have checked a number of refrence manuals, and they seem to have 
>just about everything on the engine except its horsepower. You think this 
>would be one of the most important things.
> 
>   Generally speaking, how much HP will an 8-cyl. 301 and and 8-cyl 350 
>offer? And a big-block 440(A friend has one of those in a his '74 Buick. It 
>really moves!)?

>   And, while I got you reading this... I've noticed that some of the newer 
>4-cyl. engines offer considerably more power and acceleration than those made 
>just a few years ago. Now-a-days you hardly ever see a new car equipped with 
>an 8-cyl, not even the mini-vans. And 4-cyl. in a pick-up?! Gimme a break. 
>For some reason, I can't imagine that, no matter how advanced, a 4-cyl. 
>engine offering more power/acceleration wise than a 6 or 8. Everything gets 
>smaller... looks like engines are no different.


>------
>hacksaw@cellar.org (Hacksaw)
>The Cellar BBS - (215) 654-9184

I know little about such things, but I can tell you that at it's 
simplest, Horsepower (or just power, remember that power is usually
measured in kWs outside of the US) = Torque multiplied by the number
of revs the engine is doing.  

Bigger, 6 and 8 cylinder engines, especially older engines, develop
more torque than smaller, 4 cylinder engines at the lower rev range.
At higher revs, these engines lose torque, however.                

Smaller, 4 cylinder engines generally reach their peak torque in the 
higher part of the rev range, but have less torque in the lower revs.

Bigger engines generally rev slower than smaller engines, i.e. they take
longer to reach their peak revs.

Also to be taken into account is the technologies of the engine.     
Older design engines (Pushrod cams, cast alloy construction etc.) generally have
a lower peak rpm number, and rev slower, than more modern engines
(OHCs, alloy construction, etc.).  More than two valves per cylinder
will increase the torque at the higher rev range, but will not have
as much effect (or even a detrimental!) effect at the lower rev range.
Ditto for turbochargers.

Thus, late model 4-cyl engines may develop peak power which is comparable
to that of some older design 6s and V8s, but you'll have to rev them
pretty hard to get this power.  
at the lower rev range, and will thus be easier to drive, last longer
and will also enable them to outperform the smaller engines when 
accelerating from low revs or going up hills (when you lose revs).

Hope this has been of some help.

(Disclaimer)
I know that this statement is probably full of gross inaccuracies and
simplicities, but like I said, by knowledge of such things is only
very humble.

Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: ammann@cs.sfu.ca (Ammann Manuel)
Subject: Pontiac Fiero problems?
Keywords: Fiero, problems
Organization: CSS, Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 19:36:18 GMT

I've been offered two Pontiac Fieros.

84 4cyl., loaded, emergency brake broken, 102,000km
for about Can$2500

87 4cyl, 5speed, NOT loaded, some scratches,
109,000km for about Can$3000

Both cars have no obvious other problems than the
ones mentioned above.
The prices look ok to me. Other opinions?

NOW:
How good are Fieros mechanically? Are they 
high-maintenance cars? Not reliable?
What are typical problems?

Would be great to find out about these things
before buying one. Your  help is appreciated.

Manuel

Since I have no idea
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: wrenches
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 92 01:15:15 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <Sep25.000242.41282@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> conser@CS.ColoState.EDU (glenn eldon conser) writes:
>In article <18505.2ac1a68e@ecs.umass.edu> sylveste@ecs.umass.edu writes:
> 
>>> Proper wheel nut torque should be set with a hand torque wrench.  Any
>>> outfit that only uses an impact wrench should be avoided like the plague.
> 
>>   Obviously you have never used an impact wrench. 
>>  
>>  mike sylvester 
>
>I don't understand what this has to do with anything.  I suppose you are 
>good enough with an impact to evenly and accurately torque down all 20
>lugs on an average car??  I doubt it.

I think the poster was referring to Impact wrenches tearing the heads of 
nuts in one hydraulic poof.  Impact wrenches are used for removing bolts
or screws which are frozen in place.  You get a hammer and hit the end 
of the wrench,  this gives a sharp high torque shock to the nut and, in the 
hands of an expert (not me), frees the bolt/screw without taking the head off.
There are hydraulic equivalents.  

These are obviously innapropriate for doing up nuts.  The hydraulic 
wrenches used at most tyre shops and garages can be used effectively but 
they can very easily strip threads if used wrongly of if unexpectedly set
to tighten when the mechanic is about to untighten a bolt.

My car has wheel nuts which should be torqued to 55 pound foot.  They show
definate wear through the years of prior abuse.

>If you go to any REPUTABLE tire and wheel specialty shop, you will find nothing
>but torque wrenches and speeder wrenches, NO impacts.


-- 
Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand -- 
Some of the more aware dinosaurs were worried about the environmental
consequences of an accident with the new Iridium enriched fusion reactor.  
"If it goes off only the cockroaches and mammals will survive..." they said.
From: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Saab 900i Problems?
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:25:23 GMT
Reply-To: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Organization: UniSQL, Inc., Austin, Texas, USA

In article <3360187@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> zampicem@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mike Zampiceni) writes:
>I've found SAABs to be quirky, rewarding cars to drive that require a
>considerable amount of maintenance. They tend to have a harsher ride,
>particularly the turbos, but are great road cars that are safe and 
>can carry a lot of stuff.

	Make that "really outrageous amounts of unexpected replacements
and rebuilds to every system in the car after sudden total failure" instead
of "considerable amounts" and I'd agree with everything you said.




Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mbs@allegra.att.com (Mani B. Srivastava)
Subject: Cold Idling Problem Due to Damp Weather
Keywords: Cold Idling, Damp Weather
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill, NJ
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 17:15:20 GMT

Since moving to damp, humid New Jersey from sunny San Francisco
Bay Area, my 1984 Nissan Sentra (45K miles, AT) has developed
a weird problem that I have been unable to get fixed after
two visits to the mechanic. I was looking for any pointers as
to what the problem could be.

One day after I drove in the rain it developed the problem that
it would not idle when cold - I have to keep press the gas pedal
pressed until it warmed up ... otherwise the engine would run very 
rough or just die. Parking the car for more than a couple of hours
means going through this process all over again. The problem seems
to be particularly bad on damp and humid days. The first visit to
mechanic proved fruitless - they couldn't re-create the problem and
the car ran fine for the next 3-4 sunny days. Then another rainy day
- and the problem reappeared. This time I took it to a different 
mechanic who also could not consistently re-create the problem, but
found some carbon/corrosion in the distributor rotor. Replacing
the distributor cap and the fuel filter seemed to fix the
problem, and the car ran fine for 3 weeks in all sort of weather.
Then 2-3 days back after another drive in misty/rainy weather the
cold idling problem just reappeared.

I would appreciate any pointers as to what could be causing the
problem. I am particuarly stumped by the fact that the rainy/damp
triggers the problem. In case it matters, I have recently been
using the car much more intensively than I used to (< 2K mile/yr for
the past 2 years in CA to about 800 mile/month for the past 2 months
in NJ). I never had the cold-idling problem before, although I did
need to warm-up the engine in cold weather to prevent stalling.

Thanks for any tips,

Mani

===========================================================
post : AT&T Bell Laboratories
       600 Mountain Avenue, Murray Hill, NJ 07974-0636
email: mbs@research.att.com
phone: (908)-582-7766 (W)        (201)-301-2093 (H)
===========================================================
From: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: less than a taurus
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:56:02 GMT
Reply-To: wrat@rambler.UUCP (wharfie)
Organization: UniSQL, Inc., Austin, Texas, USA

In article <25925@oasys.dt.navy.mil> bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense) writes:
>Subaru makes a full time 4WD which I believe comes in at around $17k,
>which is less than your Taurus, I think. 

	Got my SHO for 15.5.   16.5 from the dealer + 1,000 rebate from Ford.

	I almost didn't buy it 'cause it's got *front* *wheel* *drive*, an'
ever'one knows that *front* *wheel* *drive* is for morons and idjits and, like,
really sucks, but I thought the power seats were neat so I took it home.

									wr


Newsgroups: rec.autos.sport
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: F1/CART safety (Re: Mansell goes to Indycars)
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 16:37:20 GMT

In article <lcevqfINNl77@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> chrisp@regenmeister.Sun.COM (Chris Prael) writes:
>You must have missed something.  It has been more than 5 years since the
>Formula 1 regulation permitted the driver's feet to be forward of the
>centerline of the front wheels.  CART/USAC rules still permit the
>driver's feet to be a significant distance forward of the front wheel
>centerline.

i was under the impression that this was changed in indycars about
3 years ago, and that the current rule was comparable to the current
F1 rule.  can someone (hopefully with access to an actual rulebook)
please shed some light on this for us?  i know that the foot box rules
for indycars will be radically revised for 1993 in light of the piquet
accident ...

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.sport
From: torda@igc.ethz.ch (Andrew Torda)
Subject: Re: Re: RE Desmo Debut
Organization: Computational Chemistry, ETH, Zuerich
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 12:40:55 GMT

In article <78560019@teecs.UUCP> smithr@teecs.UUCP (Robert Smith) writes:
[.. desmo valve  stuff...]

>I hate it when this happens, sorry! As I was saying Ducati solved the
>precision machining problem by a neat trick; they had the valves
>close to 0.012 inches of the valeve seat and let the compression seat
>the valve. Unfortunately the racing program was terminated when sales
>had expanded sufficiently.

Where did their fastest engines redline ?

One thing that always struck me about Ducati's in the '80's was
they had this funky desmo valve gear which should avoid valve
bounce at a gillion rpm. At the same time, they were long stroke
low revving engines which were far more likely to drop a big end
before they even approached revs where valve bounce was an
issue. This is all assuming that their electrics managed to last
that long.
I think in other fields, this would be described as an
unbalanced product - one part will work up to some high spec,
but some other part will be the bottleneck long before.
This was how I always viewed Ducati motor engineering.
-Andrew
-- 

Andrew Torda, Computational Chemistry, ETH, Zurich, torda@igc.ethz.ch
Newsgroups: rec.autos.sport
From: alan@ernest.dseg.ti.com (Alan Edmonds)
Subject: Re: Patrese's comments, possible spoiler
Organization: Texas Instruments, Inc. - Plano, Tx
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:00:51 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.125300.25726@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> dwood@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Deron A Wood) writes:
>
>Since no one else has commented, did anyone else hear Patrese's comment that 
>Berger's move was "the work of a killer".   Pretty strong words but not 
>completely unjustified.  Berger had to have known that Patrese was there trying
>to get the tow, he should have waved Patrese past.  What happened was a very 
>scary moment that I am glad no one was hurt or killed.

I also noticed Patrese was very upset.  He has been interviewed many times
and has fairly good English (for a non-native speaker).  However, when
talking to Andrew "excuse me while I push my way in here" Marriot, he
was VERY Italian.  He had just finished an interview with the Italian
press; that might explain it.  I vote for his pulse rate being the 
major factor.


-- 
Alan Edmonds                                     Texas Instruments, Inc.
I don't speak for TI; TI doesn't speak for me    M/S 8513
Work phone: (214)575-6427                        6620 Chase Oaks Blvd.
Email: alan@ernest.dseg.ti.com                   Plano, Texas  75023
Newsgroups: rec.autos.sport