HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: paulm@storcon (Paul Moreau)
Subject: Re: YS .61 Longstroke Eats Bearings
Organization: Storage Concepts, Inc.
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 13:17:26 GMT


In article <1992Sep8.164603.2285@inland.com>, pasmith@inland.com writes:
|> I'm seeking information from flyers using YS .61 longstroke engines. Two of the
|> pattern flyers in my club have YS .61 longstrokes in their Summit III pattern
|> planes. They have gone through 5 sets of bearings between them this season 
|> alone. 
|> 
|> Lean runs aren't a problem. We fly together all the time and are careful in
|> avoiding overly lean settings. All of us use fuel with castor/synthetic mix,
|> 10% or 15% nitro. We have tried Powermaster, Byron, Omega. I don't think fuel
|> is the problem. I haven't had any problem with my O.S. .61 nor has one of the
|> other guys who's second pattern plane has an O.S. .61 longstroke pumper. We
|> both went 3 seasons before needing to change bearings on the O.S.'s. 
|> 
|> Note that both of the YS engines are the early models with the smaller rear 
|> bearing.

  Aha, there it is.   We had many bearings go with the early .61 long strokes
  but since the new square head long came out I've haven't heard of one eating
  one up for no reason yet.   We did have one go, but found out later that the
  guy never used any afterrun (Synthetic!) oil.  I have  one of the early .60
  short stokes and it ate it's bearings also.   I got it used from a guy who
  said he always :^) used afterrun oil but I don't know about that, I've seen
  some of his other engines.   I use Klots KL-100 oil which is a synthetic
  with 20% caster.   I believe this is the same oil that Power Master uses in
  thier fuel.

|> 
|> My questions to other netters: 
|> - Are any others having problems with YS .61 long
|>   strokes eating bearings? 
|> - Has anybody solved this problem? 
|> - Is this a problem with the later models which have a larger bearing?
|> 
|> Thanks for any info.
|> -- 
|> Todd A. Smith            | Internet:   pasmith@inland.com
|> Inland Steel Co.         | 
|> Operating Technology Dept| CompuServe: 72557,3713
|> East Chicago, IN 46312   | America On Line: ToddS4

-- 
          _____________________________________________________________
          -                *                      _______   _~;       -
          -            Paul Moreau               |       =_= /        -
          -    Sr. Diagnostics Software Eng.     \   USA    /         -
          -         Irvine, California      --->  *-_  ___ /          -
          -     UUCP: ..!uunet!storcon!paulm         \/   \\          -
          _____________________________________________________________
From: moskowit@panix.com (Len Moskowitz)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Hobby Shack Birdie .40
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:02:08 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <1992Sep14.184651.16410@nevada.edu> duncan@nevada.edu
(DUNCAN MCCOY) writes:

>Your question about how to get into a flat spin: some airplanes will
>do it and some won't. I've got a Midwest Hots that will. With lots of
>altitude, lay the airplane on it's back, point the nose up a bit and
>reduce power to induce a stall. As stall occurs, throw controls for an
>inverted snap and simultaneously add about 3/4 throttle. The plane should
>go into an inverted spin. As it does, slowly return toward neutral
>aileron and the spin should flatten out. You may need to reverse aileron
>and rudder and add some power to leave the flat spin. Note of caution -
>some airplanes won't recover from a flat spin. A friend's Christen Eagle
>died that way last summer.

It also helps to move the CG rearwards.

-- 
Len Moskowitz
moskowit@panix.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: allan@vicorp.com (Allan Krantz)
Subject: novak t4
Organization: V. I. Corporation, Northampton, Massachusetts
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 20:29:50 GMT



  My novak t4 speed controller just bit the dust.  Is it worth it
 sending this in to get fixed?  Can i fix it?

  It runs my motor at full speed all the time.  When I first turn
 it on, it will work ok for about three seconds.  After that it's
 full speed.  None of the normal adjustments will change it.  If I
 change the servo reverseing switch for the throttle, i can pull
 the throttle all the way and the motor will stop.  As i let go
 on the throttle, approaching the normal neutral area, the motor
 speeds up.  It seems this speed controller will still control
 the speed but it is now so out of whack that the normal adjustments
 won't allow normal use.

    Should i toss this away or try and get it fixed?


 allan@vicorp.com
From: lew@4ccvw15.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: GP CAP 21 queries
Date: 8 Sep 92 19:58:12 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw15.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <1992Sep6.075333.6887@bohra.cpg.oz.au> jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman) writes:
>Hi there
>If anybody out there has any experience of either of the Great Planes CAP 21s
>(.40 and .60 size), I am interested in your balancing and flying impressions.
>I just got my .40 size in the air - to get anywhere near balance on the mark 
>took 10 oz of lead in the front edge of the cowl, AND a 4.5oz brass prop nut!
>Before that it balanced about 1.75" behind the mark!!! I have a YS 45 with pipe
>, 14oz tank, battery under the tank, servoabout 3/4 forn part of wing saddle.
>I have heard some guys say the 60 size is VERY twitchy until the CG is about 
>1/2" in front of the mark.
>Also, on the ailerons - one guy built his with the tip plates and blades as per
>plans, and it was VERY twitchy in roll (unstable apparently), and it was planted
>when it snapped out on approach. I built mine without the tip plates , as I 
>could not see them surviving much hangar rash, and its roll behaviour is quite
>ok at the spec throws - ie it does what its told, and is stable.
>any comments??
>jp

I have a .40 version with a Fox .45, Tatone Pitts muffler, and CB alumninum 
spinner. I knew mine would come out tail heavy if I used the stock wood for
the stab, elevator, and rudder assembly so I replaced most of it with lighter 
wood. I went even further and cut lightening holes in the elevator and rudder. 
The result of all this work was no nose/tail weight was needed. The plane came
out a little over 5 lb and balanced a hair behind the suggested CG point. It 
flies very well and very steady but can be very twitchy if dual rates
are turned off. I went ahead and sealed the ailerons which helped alot in
maintaining roll tracking and stability. I feel that dual rates are a must
for this airplane if you want to wring it out. The plane like to land quite
hot and any attempt to fly it too slowly on landing approach may result in
a snap. That happened to me once which resulted in some serious structural
repair.

Building the CAP was a pain. I wish GP would have engineered the kit better.


Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com
From: trljim@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (JIM SONNENMEIER)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: WANTED - Winch
Date: 9 Sep 92 21:42:00 GMT
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <fogarty-090992105902@126.10.4.104>, fogarty@erenj.com (Ben Fogarty) writes...
>My son has progressed in flying to the point he could use a winch to launch
>his FUN and MERLIN. I think it would be good for him to practice launches
>on a winch since they are used in contest flying. I am looking for a
>reasonably priced winch (used is ok) with which we can practice and play. I
>am willing to repair minor problems to save some money. Even suggestions
>for a new unit would be appreciated
> 
>Ben Fogarty - Analyst
>ER&E
>Computing and Telecom Support Division
>fogarty@erenj.com

Rahm commercial winches are supposed to be good. All of the winches in our 
club are either from older (out of business) manufactures, or homebuilt 
(varying in quality from plywood boxed ones, to ultra megabucks F3B winches
) or like mine, put together from some (expensive) avialable parts.

Wayne Fredette in the Chicago Illinois area (don't have number handy) has 
drums and winch frames.  If you can do the work yourself or con someone 
into doing it for you cheaply, I'd build one. There has been articles over 
the years, in RCM, Model Builder and the like about building winches. My 
first one was a scratchbuilt .. I had a guy weld a motor mount and the I 
built the rest from angle iron and wood. It worked. <shrug>

used ones are hard to come by but thats the other option.

I know is not alot of info but I'm encouraging you :)

Jim
From: robertw@informix.com (Robert Weinberg)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Dave Brown Flight Simulator
Date: 8 Sep 92 21:46:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Sep08.132540.10100@syscon.rn.com> miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)  
writes:
> >I have the dave brown airplane flight simulator and have grown tired of it.
> 
> If you have the PC version you should just upgrade ($25) to the new
> version which includes both and has much better(EGA) grahpics.


Hmmm, is there a Macintosh version of same?

--
+================================+================================+
|         Rob Weinberg           |  Workstation publications tech |
|   Email : robertw@informix.com |        Graphic designer        |
|   Voice : 415-926-6754         |     <imagine your ad here>     |
+================================+================================+
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: RE: Hobby Shack Birdie .40
From: $stevee@sasb.byu.edu (Stephen Eldredge)
Date: 11 Sep 92 10:49:47 -0700

	My brother bought and put together the sister kit to the Birdie .
40, the Birdie .10 size.  Wood quality was equally good, however 
there were a few parts of the wrong size. (ie: bottom nose sheet was 1/4" 
instead of 1/8") BTW we like the thick sheeting better after sanding.  Power 
is an OS/10 fp.  He built it in two weekends, first flight to be Saturday.  
It would be interesting to compare notes on the two.

Steve Eldredge
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Dogbones vs Slider Shafts
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 10:18:30 GMT

I like dogbones... They taste better

Paal


Paal-sb@hsr.no
Gasheads unite.
Serpent Sprint (and a lot of electric shit)
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Subject: Re: Beginner seeks recommendations: 2m sailplane/radio
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 19:23:04 GMT

billh@bleep.com (Bill Hassell) writes:
: In article <1992Sep07.061045.13626@ecst.csuchico.edu>, rferrel@ecst.csuchico.edu (Robert Douglas Ferrell) writes:
: > Hello, RCers-
: >         I'm a greenhorn who recently got hooked on RC soaring.  I've always
: > been intrigued by RC flying, but never had the time or money (or an
: > instructor) to get involved.  Well, now I have some of each....
: 
: I have had good success with an Oly 650. It was a good kit, easy to build,
: a good flyer and very forgiving of hard landings. Just my $.02.
: 
The "Gnome" from Midway Models is reported to be a good kit.  I believe
it includes material for spoilers.  Another one to consider would be the
"Chuperosa 2M" from Culpepper Models.  It's quite a bit more
sophisticated, having ailerons.  I recently completed the hand launch
Chup with ailerons.  I'm still a novice, and was worried that it would
be "twitchy," but I'm quite pleased with the way it handles.  I had no
trouble flying it in a 20mph breeze last weekend.  Drop the nose and it
goes.  The 2-meter version is essentially the same plane with tiplets
added to extend the wing.  The Chup has sheeted foam wings, and it's a
tough little plane.  Culpepper puts together an excellent kit.  Be
warned that it requires micro servos and a small (250mah) battery pack.
A Futaba full-size receiver will just _barely_ fit.
-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
From: duncan@nevada.edu (DUNCAN MCCOY)
Subject: Re: Hobby Shack Birdie .40
Organization: University of Nevada System Computing Services
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:46:51 GMT

Chris - 

Your question about how to get into a flat spin: some airplanes will
do it and some won't. I've got a Midwest Hots that will. With lots of
altitude, lay the airplane on it's back, point the nose up a bit and
reduce power to induce a stall. As stall occurs, throw controls for an
inverted snap and simultaneously add about 3/4 throttle. The plane should
go into an inverted spin. As it does, slowly return toward neutral
aileron and the spin should flatten out. You may need to reverse aileron
and rudder and add some power to leave the flat spin. Note of caution -
some airplanes won't recover from a flat spin. A friend's Christen Eagle
died that way last summer.

Vertical with a Birdie 40: Mine weighs 5.5 lbs, has a Magnum Pro .45
that is swinging a 10 X 8 APC prop. Vertical performance is limited
only by the hair on your chest. The engine is VERY strong, the design
of the plane is pretty clean, aerodynamically - there's not a lot of
drag - is is quite quick at full throttle.


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Subject: Re: AM vs FM AGAIN? - Have Mercy
Organization: Syscon Corporate Headquarters - South Bend, IN USA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 14:43:22 GMT

paulm@storcon (Paul Moreau) writes:

>   Thank you for clearing that up for me.  I stand corrected.

>   BTW:  PCM can use either FM or AM modulation.   Both AM and the standard FM
>         use PPM.   Pulse Code Modulation and Pulse Proportional Modulation.
>         (or is that Pulse Position Modulation)?
While the Japenese refer to it as Pulse Position Modulation I think it is
really Pulse Witdh Modulation.

>         Most PCM's use FM signal modulation be cause of the inherent noise
>         immunity.   If it used AM and was in a noisy environment then it
>         would spend more time in failsafe or hold than operating.
>-- 
Also I think you would need more signal conditioning of the modulation
signal to prevent RF harmonics if you used PCM/AM.


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil)
Subject: RE: Hobby Shack Birdie .40
Reply-To: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 21:16:59 GMT

In article <190a6qINN4ha@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy) writes:
> snaps... Solid knife edge...
> Inverted...
> slightly better outside snap than inside...
> inside snap at top of loop...
> inverted flat spin...

Duncan, I really think you could be a little more adventurous on the first
flights of an airplane. I mean, wring it out just a little on that test
flight!  :-) :-) :-)

Max
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" Peter Gabriel
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Information Wanted on Very Miniature RC Planes, Cars and Boats
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 15:27:24 GMT

In article <3SEP199220374340@rosie.uh.edu> st1ec@rosie.uh.edu (Tse, Oliver) writes:
>In article <k9ln42=.noring@netcom.com>, noring@netcom.com (Jon Noring) writes...
>I've seen pictures of 1/144 scale R/C torpedo boats used in warship combat.
>They even fire pellets!  In that case, I've also seen a 1/144 scale submarine
>(about a foot long) that dove dynamically and fired pellets as well.  Someone
>also told me that you can convert the Lindberg 1/350 Bismarck into R/C.
>I even think that it was a subject of an SSM article.  Anyway, all of these
>are electric powerplants.


I think someone is doing some serious leg-pulling here 9-)

I remember flying my 2-meter and these teenagers come along and one
of them says.."Oh thats nothing. Mine has little machine guns on it 
that kick up a bunch of dirt when you fire them..."








-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: john@kennel.FIDONET.ORG (John Hamilton)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: r/c car kits for sale
Date: 7 Sep 92 00:34:14 GMT
Organization: Fido's Kennel, Cupertino CA

Hello All!

I have new r/c car stuff I'd like to sell.

Associated RC12LW    $100
Associated RC10L     $100 (graphite)
Losi LX-T            $125

I will ship COD CASH, no shipping charge for USA destination. These are
new kits, still in shrink wrap. They are left over from the store after it
was closed. Buy them before the urge to build them myself overcomes me. :-)

John

--- GoldED 2.40.P0720+
--  
John Hamilton                  uucp: uts.amdahl.com!kennel!john
DoD #0327   ToT #11            internet: john@f8.n143.z1.fidonet.org
ZX-11 From Hell.               arpa: john@kennel.FIDONET.ORG
She said, "Its either me or that ZX-11!" Too bad, I'll miss her.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: RE: Hobby Shack Birdie .40
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Date: 14 Sep 92 21:35:08 +1200
Distribution: world
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand

In article <190a6qINN4ha@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy) writes:
> Thanks, Steve. I flew me Birdie 40 for the first time this morning. It's
> going to be a really fine airplane. Took 2 clicks of down and 2 clicks of
> right trim for straight and level.

Ah, the sign of someone who builds straight and true.

> The plane is a very smooth flier, at
> recommended aileron throws the roll rate is a bit slow, so I upped it.
> You can't have a fast aileron rate and good snaps, though. The trick for
> getting it both ways is to set your low rate at about 75% and use low
> rate ailerons and high rate elevator for snaps.

Actually the trick is to use a FF7 or similar computer set with a snap-roll
switch - you just programme the required amount of elevator, rudder and aileron.

What effect does too much aileron have on a snap roll? I've always just used
full elevator, rudder and aileron with good results, although the model will also
snap (just) on rudder and elevator only.

> Solid knife edge requires
> about 3/4" rudder throw. Inverted required only a little down elevator
> that the plane flies as well inverted as upright. This plane seems to
> do a slightly better outside snap than inside. It does really well with
> an inside snap at the top of the loop. Haven't been able to do an 
> inverted flat spin yet. It tries to stay flat but drops out into an
> axial spin. Oh well, a little more tinkering with the CG.

So how do you get into (and then out of :-) a flat spin? Normal spins are no problem,
although my model won't spin inverted at all - ends up in a slow spiral mush (not
even worth calling a dive). I presume the first step is to move the CG back and then
start by entering a normal spin, however what control inputs do you give to develop
the spin into a flat spin?

> Basically, this is a really good airplane. It flies well and there were
> no surprises the first time out. The final config is with a Magnum Pro
> .45, APC 10 X 7, and Futaba 6NFK radio.
> 
> Recommended - a great $50 airplane.

If this is the plane I'm thinking of, it's sort of a cross between an aerobatic
slope soarer and a pattern ship - very clean design with long moment arms which
should groove really well. However these models seem to me to be quite large for
the engine size (I think the Birdie 10 is over 50" wingspan, I'm not sure about
the Birdie 40), what is the vertical performance like?


Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steinar Berg)
Subject: Quads vs singles
Organization: Rogaland University Centre
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 10:21:26 GMT

I think that everybody should run 15X7 rotors, that sounds better.

Paal

Paal-sb@hsr.no
Gasheads unite.
Serpent Sprint (and a lot of electric shit)
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Standard RC Servo Data
Date: 8 Sep 92 14:11:53 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.models.rc, miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz) writes:
>5 volts on the red, gnd on the black or brown, 5v pulse of 1-2mS on
>the third wire with about 20mS between pulses. 1.5mS is center.

Oops- I think Mike is right. I had said 0.5-1.5ms.  Sorry.

DaveP
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paulm@paulsun (Paul Moreau)
Subject: Re: Airtronics / Futaba
Organization: Storage Concepts, Inc.
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 13:56:25 GMT


In article <9209081551.AA08763@bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, mmarks@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Matthew D Marks) writes:
|> Hello Net...
|> 
|> Problem:
|> My mother-in-law hates me.  I got my father-in-law interested in RC.  He now 
|> has a PT-40, Sturdy Birdie, and a Super Box Fly 40.
|> 
|> The problem is that he now has more planes than me.  :-(
|> --------------------------------------------------------
|> 
|> Question:
|> So, when my father-in-law made his order at Tower, they were out of Futaba 
|> Conquests.  He bought an Airtronics 4ch w/ trainer switch.  Does anyone know if
|> I can attach my Futaba training cable to my Futaba Conquest and his Airtronics 
|> radio???  I doubt it, but I though I'd ask...
|> 
|> Quesion #2:
|> He also has a spare Futaba s148 servo that he would like to use with his 
|> Airtronics radio.  All he needs to do is solder on a servo connector, but the 
|> Airtronics servo connector has the following scheme:
|> 
|> Airtronics:                                         Futaba:
|>              ---------black              black-------------
|> to connector ---------black              red--------------- to servo
|>              ---------black w/ red       white-------------
|> 
|> How do these connect?
|>

   Reverse the black w/ red and the black wire next to it.
 
|> Thanks
|> Matt
|> --
|> ======================================================================
|> Matthew D. Marks                   ||   " In the race for quality,
|> Mechanical Engineering Department  ||     there is no finish line. "
|> The Ohio State University          ||
|> e-mail: marks.23@osu.edu           ||              - David T. Kearns
|> ======================================================================

-- 
          _____________________________________________________________
          -                *                      _______   _~;       -
          -            Paul Moreau               |       =_= /        -
          -    Sr. Diagnostics Software Eng.     \   USA    /         -
          -         Irvine, California      --->  *-_  ___ /          -
          -     UUCP: ..!uunet!storcon!paulm         \/   \\          -
          _____________________________________________________________
From: jorgense@plains.NoDak.edu (Lee A. Jorgensen)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Information Wanted on Very Miniature RC Planes, Cars and Boats
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:43:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: plains.20214
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

The smallest commercial RC Cars are 1:52 scale.  About $100 US for 
Everything (including car, charger, and radio, plus extras).

Sorry, I forget who makes/distrubutes it right now.

-Lee.

-- 
Lee Jorgensen             Internet: jorgense@plains.NoDak.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------
  This .signature is now fixed according to FCC standards,
 internet rules and regulations, and my personal preference.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc