HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: otto@meaddata.com (Otto Burgess)
Subject: New idea in B&W film development?
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 21:29:25 GMT

Just an idea I would like some feedback on.  I was looking over an Edmond Scientific catalog the other day, and found ultrasonic cleaning devices.  These are the tank like units they use to clean fine parts in a cleaning solution.  They work by sending sound waves in the 40-50Kz range into the solution, causing a scrubbing action on whatever is in the tank (stainless steel).

Some of these units are large enough for 4x5 film, without getting too expensive.  Would anyone think that these units can be used to process B&W?  Has anyone out there tried it?  I know that some people use constant rotary action to process film, sould the scrubbing action be any different?

Thanks for any postings in advance.

Otto.
-- 
|Otto Burgess
|(513) 865 - 1024    
|Mead Data Central   
|P.O. Box 933        
|Dayton, Ohio  45401 
| 
|otto@meaddata.com
From: mike@ravel.udel.edu (Michael James Porter)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Darkroom Equipment (Enlarger) for sale
Keywords: Photography,Darkroom,Enlarger
Date: 9 Apr 92 20:21:14 GMT
Organization: University of Delaware


Darkroom Equipment for sale:

- Beseler 45MX-II Enlarger and base (Black, motorized).
- Philips PCS 150 Additive Color Head (Includes voltage stabilizer and
  solid state timer).
- Rodenstock Omegaron 3.5,f=50mm enlarger lens.
- 35mm carrier, 4x5" glassless and glassed carriers.
- GraLab Model 300 60 minute timer.
- 8 x 10" darkroom light.
- Small darkroom light.
- 2 all steel 35mm 2 reel tanks.
- 1 steel tank, platic lid, 35mm 3 reel tank.
- 1 steel tank, plastic lid, 35mm 2 reel tank.
- 1 Patterson plastic tank, 35mm 2 reel tank (missing small cap).
- 6 steel 35mm reels.
- 1 steel 2.25" reel.
- 2 8x10" paper safes.
- 1 8x10" 35mm contact print easel.
- 1 8x10" combo easel.
- 1 5x7" adjustable easel.
- Several trays.

$825 for all listed.  Make an offer on any individual items.  Call
(302) 737-0684 and leave a message if no answer or respond via mail
to mike.porter@mvs.udel.edu.

The enlarger is pretty big to ship.  However, I could arrange to get
it to most places on the East Coast...I would just sort of vacation
there to make the trip worthwhile.  Naturally, I would need to be sure
you were serious! (I'm in Newark Delaware - about 30 miles south of
Phillie, and 2.5 hours south of New York).

I have the original information on the PCS-150.  I can photocopy and
FAX if you are seriously interested.

Due to various circumstances (like no room to build a darkroom in
our new house), I'm not going to be able to use this equipment.  I
bought it with the intention of making a darkroom when we bought a
house, but it just didn't work out that way.

Mike
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Day for night/ night photography
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:16:24 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

In rec.photo, kabir@kabir.Eng.Sun.COM (Ihtisham Kabir) writes:
>I heard someone mention the application of "day for night",
>a technique used in movies, to night photography. Apparently
>the result is that one gets photographs that look almost
>like they were exposed during the day, but have a strange
>look to them.

This has been done, and is still taught in some film schools.  The technique
is not as popular now due to the development of fast films, more
powerful HMI lights, and sensitive video cameras - so night-for-night 
is what results.

The day-for-night technique uses the sun as a rimlight, similar to the
effect one would see in night-for-night shots, to create an illusion
that the actors are being illuminated by moonlight or practicals (lamps,
streetlights, headlights, or any light source that is part of the scene).

Day-for-night also involves the use of a blue filter (a # 80 would work)
plus closing down at least 3 stops.  Obviously, the printer would have
to be aware of what you are trying to do, lest he mistake this for an
accidental underexposure.

   /|/| /||)|/  /~_/\| |\|)[~|)/~_  |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/~||\|\  \_/\/|_|/|)[_|\\_/  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
Xref: sparky rec.photo:7099 rec.backcountry:3229
From: mikem@ex.heurikon.com (Mike Mayer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: Backpacking camera
Date: 13 Apr 92 15:01:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: heurikon.1413
Reply-To: mikem@ex.heurikon.com (Mike Mayer)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Heurikon Corporation, Madison, WI

#In article <1992Mar31.172323.2691@rtsg.mot.com>, sagerian@delphinium.UUCP (Steve M. Sagerian) writes...
#>Hello backpackers,
#>Does anyone know of a 35mm SLR camera that has interchangeable lens and is 
#>designed to be light weight for backpacking?  
#> 
#>Thanks...Stever
#

Well, I have used my Canon AE-1 and F-1, one or the other or both.  Any
35mm SLR is light enough to backpack, in my opinion.  It just depends
on how far you want to go. :-)  I also carried my Bogen tripod and
several lenses from 20mm to 200mm, extension tubes, filters, etc.
It just depends on how much photography you want to do.  On the
last trip I went on I went by myself so the fact that I was loaded
down and couldn't go very far didn't matter as much.
--
Mike Mayer                                             mikem@heurikon.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Subject: Re: immaturity on rec.photo
Originator: asanders@sparta
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 22:13:47 GMT

I agree with Carl and Barry. Regular rec.photo contributors are an
unusually knowledgeable and courteous group, and it's quite surprising
to hear all this *static* coming over the airwaves. I've just tuned 
it out, like hitting the "mute" button when the commercials come on,
but it would be nice if these folks would take their argument over
to alt.flame or some such.
				-Alan
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: portrait lenses / soft focus?
Date: 17 Apr 92 17:03:18 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

In rec.photo, ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
>You can buy "diffusing" or "soft focus" filters which will give you some
>degree of soft focus, or you can try stretching some fine gauze across your
>lens. You can also get some degree of soft focus during printing by using
>similar techniques.

The use of diffusing elements in photography or printing and the use
of soft focus lenses (like the Imagon) are widely used in pro photography.
Many home-made diffusers work pretty well, too (e.g. worn-out stockings).

But so-called "soft-focus" portraits also require the proper lighting.
The lighting should compliment the effect you're trying to achieve with
optical diffusion.

I recommend soft natual light (north side of a building) or well-diffused
artificial light, such as one would get from an umbrella or soft box.
A relatively low lighting ratio is also appropriate.

The final step happens in the lab.  Often, negative or print retouching
is used for the finished product, to lighten unsightly blemishes or
wrinkles.
   /|/| /||)|/  /~_/\| |\|)[~|)/~_  |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/~||\|\  \_/\/|_|/|)[_|\\_/  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
From: rtsmohd@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 20000
Date: 8 Apr 92 14:27:58 GMT
Organization: Memphis State University



CAN ANYONE HELP ME !!!

	
	I've a Yashica Samurai X4.0 camera (compact 35mm auto-focus SLR
camera). This camera uses one half of the standard 35mm frame (17*24mm) 
i.e I can take 24 frames on a roll of 12-exposure film. The problem is
that not all minilabs are equipped to print half-frame 35mm film.

My questions are:  What should I do if there's no minilab in my area 
		   that can print half-frame 35mm film ?
		:  Do I have to rewind the film after I've used only 
		   half of the roll of the film ?



***Thanks in advance.
From: kbb0@harvey.gte.com (Kevin Burke)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Leica service in Boston area: a follow-up...
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:34:50 GMT
Distribution: \usa

Several weeks ago I posted a question about good Leica service in the
Boston area. *ALL* the responses recommended S.K.Grimes (adjunct to E.P.
Levine's) as the place to go. Apparently, a Leica rep visiting this area
also recommended Grimes as a good place for screw-mount stuff.

I tried to reply to all responses but if I missed anyone, thank you!
I'll be trying Grimes on some of my M stuff and will report the results.

- Kevin  (kbb0@harvey.gte.com)
From: collier@lacerta.unm.edu (Michael Collier)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: computer "darkroom"
Date: 16 Apr 92 21:22:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.cb1jnl
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque


i am trying to get a handle on the hardware technology available for
computer processing of photographic materials, and i was wondering
if anyone could tell me about slide scanners and printers. at the
low end for a scanner, there seems to be the MicroTek ScanMaker 1850S.
anything in the same order of magnitude in terms of price that could
do up to a 6x7, or even larger? how about slide printers in this order
of magnitude in terms of price (again, 6x7 or larger would be nice)? any
suggestions would be appreciated. thanks.
-- 
Michael H. Collier        INET: collier@ariel.unm.edu   BITNET: COLLIER@UNMB
1160 Don Pasqual NW; Los Lunas, NM 87031; (505) 865 8770
"She was a blonde. The kind of blonde that would make a bishop kick in
	a stained glass window". - Raymond Chandler
From: astro@iris1.oceanroutes.ns.ca (ASTRO)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: mechanical cameras
Date: 8 Apr 92 02:27:09 GMT
Organization: NSTN Network Operations Centre, Nova Scotia, Canada

j_feldman@blkice.enet.dec.com ( ) writes:
B
>|>the help and info.

>a1.  Check shutterbug (available at larger newstands), you should have NO
>trouble finding old OM1's in excellent or better condition.  Del's comes to
>mind as does KEH.  With 50mm lens, shouldn't be more than $160.  Probably some
>old Nikons out there too, but I'm not sure what models have mechanical
>shutters.  Del's is a Nikon dealer and I would expect they could tell you.

>B2.  I'm sure someone will correct me, but I think the only all mechancial
>(except the meter) 35mm SLR camera left in production, is the Pentax K1000.

>jimf

The older Nikons (F, F-2) are terrific, tough and reasonably priced in decent
shape.

Nikon still makes a manual model...the FM I believe, and can be bought
for around $400.00 US (te latest model is the FM-2N).

brian
From: smss@nansen.ecs.soton.ac.uk (Syed-Mustaffa SMS)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: F4s amd N8008 (F801 for all the world)
Date: 10 Apr 92 14:02:52 GMT
Distribution: rec.photo
Organization: University of Southmapton, UK

What the F801(s) has that the F4s doesn't :
   1. the ability to vary the timer between 1s to 30s;
   2. when used in manual or speed priority (without MF21 for the F801(s)
      and without MF23 for the F4s) the speed can be adjusted to up to 30
      seconds using the dial.   The speed knob on the F4 doesn't go up to
      as slow as that.

===========================================================================
Salleh Syed-Mustaffa
Department of Electronics and Computer Science
Mountbatten Building
University of Southampton
Highfield
Southampton SO9 5NH
England
e-mail : smss@ecs.soton.ac.uk
phone  : +44 703 59 3122
fax    : +44 703 59 3045
===========================================================================
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Amateur film processing (NOW tabletop procs).
Date: 9 Apr 92 03:49:25 GMT
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA


In article <1992Apr8.053523.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu>,
amolitor@eagle.wesleyan.edu writes:
|> In article <1992Apr7.210042.5948@unx.sas.com>,
|>     sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com (Steve Holzworth) writes:
|> 
|> > [regarding Durst Printo]
|> >
|> > Minor bitches:
|> > 
|> > The drive gears are all plastic (nylon?).
|> > ...
|> > I have had ONE misfeed, which also resulted in a gear break.
|> > ... This isn't covered under warranty
|> > either, so I had to pay for this one ($6.25).
|>
|> 	Perhaps this is why they're nylon? Cheapcheap, and perhaps
|> metal would break too..

Cheapcheap is important in a product like this -- there are lots of
other options if you want an expensive processor!

I can see two problems with metal, though.  One is that they would be
noisy (the Printo is deliciously quiet as-is).  The other is that
materials for use around the chemistry we're talking about have to be
carefully chosen.  The acids and corrosives are might strong in some
cases, and metals like "ordinary" stainless steel still don't get the
job done.  It's a lot harder to machine stainless steel, which adds to
the cost considerably, especially when compared to plastic.

Besides, if the gears don't give, the torque of stuck rollers is sent
all the way back to the motor, which would probably burn out, and I'd
rather replace a $6 gear than find out how much they'd have to charge
for a new motor.

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mandayrv@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Ramanand V. Mandayam)
Subject: Enlarger, heat absorbing glass.
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 00:44:56 GMT

Hi folks,

I recently purchased a used b&w enlarger (the Omega B22 XL). Among the many
accessories that I got along with it, there is a heat absorbing glass. I did
read somewhere -- I am not sure when and how long ago -- that these pieces
of glass are recommended for long exposures so that the film does not buckle
under prolonged heating.

My question is: Is heating really such a serious problem and is this the
most recommended way of suppressing the heating. 

If yes, can somebody enlighten me where to place this piece  of glass. Alas,
the glass is not an original equipment supplied by the manufacturer (OMEGA) 
but was purchased separately. Hence, the users manual for the enlarger does
not have any descriptions on how to use those glasses.

Thanks.


ramanand@pumpkin.ece.uc.edu
-- 
  mandayrv@ucunix.san.uc.edu
Organization: Ryerson Polytechnical Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Monday, 6 Apr 1992 17:37:26 EST
From: <MECE5475@RyeVm.Ryerson.Ca>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject:    disc cameras

Anyone know where one can get a disc camera and for how much?  Does anyone know
the features of these things?

Thanks in advance.

Kevin.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ilsa@netcom.com (Ilsa VanHook)
Subject: Minolta SLR info wanted (non-maxxum)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 19:07:52 GMT
Organization: Shonen Knife Fan Club

I have a couple of SRTs, and am shopping for another camera
body.  Can anyone point me at a summary of features for minolta
SLRs, especially the X-models (XD-, XE-, etc.)?  Opinions and
rants about different models would also be appreciated.

So far, I'm sort of tempted to get either an SRT-202, because i 
know it will do what i want, or an XK, because i vaguely remember
that they look neat...on the other hand, a new X-700 body is only
$180 or so from B&H, but i don't know how obnoxious the auto-
exposure system might be.  Assuming it *is* AE, that is...
From: monson@caviar.ECE.ORST.EDU (Tyrus Monson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Filters for View Cameras
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:36:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: talon.1992Apr9.193652.8676
Organization: Oregon State University, Corvallis

In article <12069@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu> dykes@gcox.ucdavis.edu (Jim Dykes) writes:
>
>  I have a question for the view camera users on the net.  What type of
>filters do you use and how do you attach them?
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>
 (stuff deleted)
>Jim Dykes
>jedykes@ucdavis.edu

 For the long exposures you mention, try taping the filter in front
 of the lens as an inexpensive make-do technique.
 You mentioned that you were thinking of buying gels.
 There are polyester filters on the market that serve as less expensive
 substitutes for gels. They work for me.
 There are a variety of other approaches that can cost a lot more 
 money. For example, you can buy the numbered "series" filters, then
 buy a threaded holder for each lens. Also, there are filter holders 
 on the market designed to support gels over a lens. The cheapest I've
 seen uses a spring-action to clamp the holder around the lens.
 It is too small for the larger view camera lenses, though.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ong@a.cs.okstate.edu (ONG ENG TENG)
Subject: Re: Tamron 35-105 F2.8 AF
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 04:21:36 GMT

From article <1992Apr14.184721.1470@adobe.com>, by usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS):
> | I do considerable studio flashwork and really do not like guessing 
> | at the Fstop.
> 		  -Becker
> 
> The N8008s gives a continuous readout of the *actual* aperture,
> taking into account lens extension as well as the variable aperture
> of the 35-105/3.5-4.5. And isn't it true that lens extension needs
> to be considered even when using a lens with a constant maximum
> aperture? My 60/2.8 AF Micro loses 1-1/3 stops in going from
> infinity to close focus.

I wonder the camera indication loss of aperture is via the lens CPU
telling the camera or it is actual measurement by the camera?  Somebody
mentioned that Sigma lenses fooled the camera into thinking that it is
4.0 when it is really 5.6 (or 6.2) in order to make the camera do AF.
From: jay@intermec.com (Jay Schlegel x6878)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: questions on slide lab quality
Date: 8 Apr 92 15:55:15 GMT
Reply-To: jay@intermec.com (Jay Schlegel x6878)
Organization: Intermec Corporation, Everett WA

In article <1992Apr2.200215.2510@berlioz.nsc.com> elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau) writes:
>
>Now the second question.  When I send in my slide for a type R print, say at
>the Slideprinter, can I expect the print to look EXACTLY like the slide? or
>should I expect increased contrast, reduced details in highlights/shadows ... ?
>Worse yet, will any compensation I add to the exposure be un-done as in many
>cases with prints from negs?
>
>eugene

  You *will* see increased contrast on the prints.  Of the 6 or so enlargements
I recently had done by SlidePrinter this proved problematic on only one (which
just happened to be the only 16*24) which I felt was underexposed.  I called them
and they graciously agreed to redo the print and politely requested that I always
include directions on how I wanted a slide printed (e.g. "expose to just before
highlights burn out").  I hope they don't raise their prices out of popularity!
This is a nice outfit.

BTW:  I'm very pleased with the overall quality of their work, especially the prints
I had done on polyester base "display" paper.  Only the one print was exposed 
differently than I would have hoped and this was a tough one... a mass of white
snow geese against a steely blue sky shot on velvia.   The print yielded a much
darker grayish hue as opposed to a bluer/brighter sky on the slide.  Actually
the jury is still out on whether they can print this to my liking, it may just be
that the contrast of the paper will be prevent adequately brightening the sky
without totally burning out the white geese.


-- 
-*jay  Jay Schlegel --> Intermec Corp., Everett Wa.
						     fluke!
	jay@intermec.com      OR  -->	    uunet!pilchuck!intermec!jay
From: lkoh@oak.math.ucla.edu (Liang Koh)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: buying used Nikon lenses
Date: 15 Apr 92 21:34:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department


I would like to buy a used Nikon 105mm f1.8 or a 135mm f2 lens. please
email me if you have an offer.
From: jpatters@willamette.edu (Jane Patterson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: looking for Imogen Cunningham
Date: 17 Apr 92 00:47:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: willamet.1992Apr17.004710.3379
Organization: Willamette University, Salem, OR


	 My first real interest in photgraphy was sparked by a book I found on
some dusty back shelf in my school library. It was a collection of the work
of Imogen Cunningham, and it was simply called Photographs, if memory serves.
I have been looking madly for this book ever since, and I would appreciate it
if anyone could point me to a place where I could buy it - I think it was
published by the seattle art museum? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jayn
(jpatters@willamette.edu)
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Joshua Tree NM. Need info on photo experiences
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:36:11 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau) writes:
: In article <1992Apr6.213138.3748@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
: >It is possible I may get out to Joshua Tree National Monument
: 
: Don't just go there for the bighorn.  The Cholla (spelling ???) cactus is
: beautiful and is about as tall as we are.  It's not a one-piece cactus but a 
: "tree" with cacti "branches".

I have been away from the desert for a while, but I seem to remember that a
common name for these is "Jumping Cholla" (I don't know the correct spelling
either!).  They have a "habit" of "jumping" onto things that walk underneath
them.  (Actually, what happens is that the "branches" break off due to
vibration or something of a passing animal.  Just one of nature's little
techniques for making a plant mobile.)

One of these followed me home from one desert trip.  Fortunately for me, it
jumped onto my shoe! ;-)

Sorry if this got a little off the subject of photography, but I thought you
deserved a warning.  Remember, the trick to getting the needles out of you
is to twirl them out -- don't pull straight.

- Jay Ts