HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frazier@oahu.cs.ucla.edu (Greg Frazier)
Subject: Re: About Brine Shrimp
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 16:43:36 GMT

<SRK8@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>Could anyone give me the details involving the hatching of brine shrimp. The lo
>cal pet shop people told me that it was a real pain to do so, but I have also r
>ead in many magazines that it is pretty easy and straightforward.

Oleg already mentioned that the pet shop lied.  So, how to hatch
brine shrimp egg.  First, you buy the eggs.  Oleg doesn't like
pet shops, but until you are a big-time fish breeder you have
no use for a 1# can of eggs.  Go to the pet store and buy a small
vial of eggs for ~$1.50.  They'll last you a while.  Now get
yourself a clear 1 litre soda bottle, an air pump and some salt
(I use rock salt "for making ice cream").  Fill the bottle just
past its shoulder's with aged fresh water.  Put 1/2 capful of eggs
into the bottle (make sure you don't get any moisture in the
vial or you will ruin the rest of your eggs).  Put 1 T salt into
the bottle.  Put an airline into the bottle and bubble away (no
airstone needed).  Oh, and put a 60W light next to the bottle -
that's important.  In 18-24 hrs the eggs will hatch.  No, pull
the airline out of the bottle and let it sit for 10 min.  The
egg shells will float to the top, the unhatched eggs will sink
to the bottom, and you'll have hundreds of nauplii swimming
around, esp. in the lower half.  Syphon them out with an airline -
be careful to not syphon from the bottom or you'll get all of
the unhatched eggs, and try not to syphon all of the water out,
or you'll get the egg shells.  Ooops - when you were getting
the eggs, you also purchased a brine shrimp net, and while you
were syphoning, you were filtering the water through the brine
shrimp net, catching all of the nauplii.  You also saved 2
or 3 cups of the brine to keep the nauplii in.  Now, you invert
the net into the brine, and there you have shrimp nauplii to
feed to your fish.
-- 


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: SMTP@UMCVMB.MISSOURI.EDU
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Undeliverable Mail
Date: 13 Apr 92 20:35:34 GMT


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X-Resent-Date:  Mon, 13 Apr 92 15:34:19 CDT
X-Resent-From:  Phil Leith <CCPHIL@UMCVMB.missouri.edu>
X-Resent-To:    Aquarium Discussion List <rec-aquaria@ucbvax.berkeley.edu>,
              Aquarium Science List <sci-aquaria@ucbvax.berkeley.edu>,
              Aquarium Discussion Group <alt-aquaria@ucbvax.berkely.edu>
Date:         Mon, 13 Apr 92 15:09:47 CDT
From:         Phil Leith <CCPHIL@UMCVMB.missouri.edu>
Subject:      (f) Aqua-Tronics Soft 'n' Clear
To:           Aquarium Discussion Group <rec.aquaria@UCBVAX.BERKELEY.EDU>

We here in Columbia, MO have the hardest water... *IN THE WORLD*!!!!!!
Well, maybe not, but it's off the scale.  I have angels, and (with the
exception of the two my brother gave me recently) they seem happy.  I
know they like soft water, so I bought this additive called "Soft'n'Clear".
It's a green liquid, and causes a milky precipitate when added to our
liquid limestone.  It takes much more of the liquid than the directions
indicate to lower the hardness to acceptable levels (under 10 ppm, preferably
around 4 or 5, I think).  The water will remain cloudy for a few days (I
don't do diatom filtering except at vaccuum time) and it's kind of an
undesirable side effect.

Has anyone seen/used this stuff?  Anybody know what it is?  What by-products
it produces?  Whether it's desirable to add the stuff or just let the fish
swim in 20+ ppm water?  Would I do just as well or better to soak peat in
a plastic trash can on the porch?

!~~~~~~~~o~~~~~/~~~~~~~ Phil Leith, Meteorologist & Tropical Fish Hobbyist~~~~!
!        o    / \                                                             !
!         o /    \   /                                                        !
!          <  )   =-{         Bitnet     : CCPHIL@UMCVMB.BITNET               !
!           \    /   \        Internet   : CCPHIL@UMCVMB.MISSOURI.EDU         !
!             \ /                                                             !
!______________\______________________________________________________________!
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3004 rec.aquaria:3793
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Friday, 10 Apr 1992 11:47:09 EDT
From: <GRI101@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: help!...goldfish in fishbowl

I bought a couple of small (1 inch long) goldfish which I plan to keep
in a 1/2 gallon glass bowl. I have some gravel at the bottom. At present
I have not fixed any filtering system or water aerating system.
  Since it is my first experience with fish, I' having serious doubts
as to what I'm doing is right. Could someone in netland help me with my
queries.
  * do i need to install an aerating system. i dont intend on putting
    more than two goldfish in the bowl.
  * how often should i feed the fish
  * how often should i change the water
  * i bought some "ammonia chlorine eliminator". I add a couple of drops
    every day. is it ok.
  * the water seems to get dirty very very fast. It turns murky in a few
    hours time. So I replace half of it with fresh water Three times a day.
    Also the goldfish come to the water surface and seem to stick there
    head almost out of water and breath there. but when i add fresh water
    they swim near the bottom for a few hours. Could this be because the
    oxygen in the water gets depleted fast and then the fish try to breath
    near the surface where oxygen conc. may be higher. what can i do to
    remedy the situation.

    thanks a lot.
                 gurmeet
                 singh@shiva.psu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: debra@solbourne.com (Debra Frances)
Subject: Re: Arrowanas
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc.
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 22:20:04 GMT

Anyone know anything about Australian or Asian Arrowanas?  anything about
breeding  them?
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3055 sci.aquaria:813 rec.aquaria:3868
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Reef & Breeders News Journal - call for papers
Date: 13 Apr 92 20:57:03 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Distribution: world
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood


 A newsjournal sounds like a great idea. It could be used as a forum for
putting together all the short messages about breeding that appear on the
net. Also articles could be drafted for the journal. Breeders are gathering
volumes of research and we need a forum for dispersing this info. I wouldnt
mind drafting articles or providing news tidbits for the journal if they
would be desired. My time constraints forbid me from possibly being the
tropical editor. Perhaps someone who plans on getting into tropical breed-
ing later would like to be an editor now. This would provide them with
information they could find very valuable in the future.
 If the interest is thier, send out info on article lengths and article
themes and this breeder will possibly try to draft something that would
fit into the journal.

 Steve Tyree - Practicing Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: filfeit@hydrogen.Tymnet.COM (Concert Data Manager)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Feeding plecotemus
Date: 7 Apr 92 21:10:03 GMT
Reply-To: filfeit@hydrogen.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Usually, I just feed mine flakes.  They don't seem to mind; I put some into the
filter flow to force them to the bottom.

The other best food for plecos is green squash.  It floats, so I slice & boil them
for about 5 minutes.  Make sure you remove the rind after the food is gone.

BTW, I've bred five generations of bristle-nose plecos, and raised all of the babies
on squash, switching to flakes when they're about 4 cm long.  The only problem I've
ever had was pH: gets too low, and they go rather quickly, starting with the youngest.

--fil (shipwrecked and comatose)

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: About Brine Shrimp
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 10:30:40 GMT

In article <92101.223155SRK8@psuvm.psu.edu> <SRK8@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>Could anyone give me the details involving the hatching of brine shrimp. The lo
>cal pet shop people told me that it was a real pain to do so, 

They lied to you.

>r >ead in many magazines that it is pretty easy and straightforward.

It is.

>Also, where c >an I get these eggs ?

Most pet shops sell them at astronomically high prices.  You can also buy
them mail order for reasonable money -- usually $12-20 for a 1 lb can.
Look on the back pages for AFM and FAMA for ads.

Brine shrimp eggs are very tough and if you keep them in the freezer, they
will last for many years.  

Did you also want to know how to hatch them?
-- 
Oleg Kiselev, at home			....use the header to find the path
From: scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M)Spawning of Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi
Date: 6 Apr 92 17:50:14 GMT
Reply-To: scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA
Keywords: reef breeding stony corals marine

>
>For those of you with access to an academic library, you may find the 
>following references useful:
>
>
>Babcock, R.C. & A.J. Heyward 1986.  Larval development of certain gamete 
>spawning scleractinian corals. Coral Reefs 5:111-116.
>
>
>Wallace, C.C., Babcock, R.C., Harrison, P.L., Oliver, J.K. & 
>Willis, B.L. (1986). Sex on 
>the reef: mass spawning of corals.  Oceanus 29(2):38-42.
>
> Harrison, P.L., Babcock, R.C., Bull, G.D., Oliver, J.K., Wallace, C.C. 
>& Willis, B.L. 
>(1983).  Mass spawning in tropical reef corals.  Science 223:1186-1189.
>
>Willis, B.L., Babcock, R.C., Harrison, P.L., 
>Oliver, J.K. & Wallace, C.C.  (1985).  
>Patterns in the mass spawning of corals on the Great Barrier Reef 
>from 1981 to 
>1984. Proc. 5th Int. Coral Reef Congr. 4:343-348.
>
>Babcock, R.C., Bull, G.D., Harrison, P.L., Heyward, A.J., 
>Oliver, J.K., Wallace, C.C. 
>& Willis, B.L. (1986).  Synchronous spawnings of 105 scleractinian 
>species on the 
>Great Barrier Reef.  Marine Biology 75:379-394.
>
>Hope this helps ......
>
>Don't get discouraged .... as far as I can tell, the amateur aquarist
>are way ahead of us marine biologists in keeping corals going in 
>closed circuit aquaria.  I'm still trying to figure out why we
>don't have better success with our big 2.5 megaliter job here...
>
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>   Jamie Oliver				Managing Australia's Great Barrier Reef

I think I'm speaking for most of the reef keepers on the net that
your information is invaluable. We greatly appreciate your help
and insight. 

		Thanks 
		Scott Schaeffer
		scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com

Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3023 rec.aquaria:3813
From: gdrew@cs.umd.edu (Greg Drew)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: help!...goldfish in fishbowl
Date: 11 Apr 92 20:25:00 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <92101.114709GRI101@psuvm.psu.edu> GRI101@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>I bought a couple of small (1 inch long) goldfish which I plan to keep
>in a 1/2 gallon glass bowl. I have some gravel at the bottom. At present
Several other people here have already given you good advice, so I will add
only one thing.  When you go out looking for a good aquarium book, I would
recommend "You and Your Aquarium" by Dick Mills.  I picked up a copy in a
discount bookstore for about $12 or less (and since I loaned it to my girlfriend
8 months ago, I have not seen it :-) ).  You will find it informative, and 
enjoyable.  Good Luck!
					-- GDD
PS  Take whatever the guys at the pet shop say with a grain of salt unless you
can find someone who is both very knowledgable and who cares more about the
health of your fish than his profit.  I have lost both fish and money by
taking what I was told on blind faith instead of at least checking it with at
least one book.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greg Drew                          | Watch for coming attractions 
gdrew@trellis.cs.umd.edu           |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jamesb (James Bahn)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Help with Geophagus? (F)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 19:38:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.


I just moved my 7" Geophagus Daemon and my 5" Geophagus Surinamensis
from the 29 gallon they were sharing with a 5" Pike, 2x6" Severums,
and a 6" Pleco...into....a 50 gallon.  The only other fish in the 50
are 3 Black Skirt Tetras and 3 White Clouds.

I'm running a Fluval 203 and a Penguin 300 on the 50.  Using normal
coated gravel, temp around 78 degress, ammonia and nitrite undetectable,
although cycling isn't complete.  Water is medium hard (tap water)
with a near 7.0 pH.  The water was slightly softer and lower in pH (6.8)
in the 29.

OK, here are the problems...The Daemon found a hiding place and doesn't
move.  He just floats.  That's the good news.  The Surinamensis just
sits on the bottom, except when he comes up and acts like he's coughing.
And he's lost color.  Maybe he's got gravel stuck somewhere?

The only food either will even look at is earthworm, and even then,
there's no eagerness to eat.

These are truly my favorite fish; I bought the 50 so they'd be
happier (I'll eventually move the small fish out and the other
big fish in).  Any ideas?

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (D Keith Higgs)
Subject: Re: BABY CONVICTS
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 09:48:14 GMT

I just couldn't resest this one:

In article <1992Apr13.211044.1012@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> lso@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu writes
:
+How do I take care of baby Convicts?
+I have both eggs and very young fry from different parents in a 45 gal
+community tank.

Paint several verticaal black bars on the tank!?  ;-)
-- 
D. Keith Higgs     The Ohio State University    Rm. 040-N Main Library
DATA+@osu.edu      University Libraries         1858 Neil Avenue
dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu                Columbus, Ohio  43210
--------------------------------------------------phone--(614)292-6314--
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3012 rec.aquaria:3807
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: help!...goldfish in fishbowl
Date: 10 Apr 92 22:04:45 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Paul gave good advice.  For such a small space, concider switching fish
to a male Beta.  They don't get big, they don't eat 'n poop a lot and they
have good personalities!

           mark

In article <92101.114709GRI101@psuvm.psu.edu>, GRI101@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
> 
> I bought a couple of small (1 inch long) goldfish which I plan to keep
> in a 1/2 gallon glass bowl. I have some gravel at the bottom. At present
> I have not fixed any filtering system or water aerating system.
>   Since it is my first experience with fish, I' having serious doubts
> as to what I'm doing is right. Could someone in netland help me with my
> queries.
>   * do i need to install an aerating system. i dont intend on putting
>     more than two goldfish in the bowl.
>   * how often should i feed the fish
>   * how often should i change the water
>   * i bought some "ammonia chlorine eliminator". I add a couple of drops
>     every day. is it ok.
>   * the water seems to get dirty very very fast. It turns murky in a few
>     hours time. So I replace half of it with fresh water Three times a day.
>     Also the goldfish come to the water surface and seem to stick there
>     head almost out of water and breath there. but when i add fresh water
>     they swim near the bottom for a few hours. Could this be because the
>     oxygen in the water gets depleted fast and then the fish try to breath
>     near the surface where oxygen conc. may be higher. what can i do to
>     remedy the situation.
> 
>     thanks a lot.
>                  gurmeet
>                  singh@shiva.psu.edu
> 
> 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu
Subject: help cont.
Reply-To: xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 22:46:46 GMT

the message in the post 'help' is not mine-it was posted for someone else
whose system wasnt posting. please send all mail to the sig. befor mine as
i dont know how to forward to this person and dont even knopw if i can.
or beter yet post it for everyone to read.  thank you.

ELF-KIN	"into this house where born, into this world where thrown
		 like a dog with out a bone,an acter out alown..."
				->Jim Morrison;The Doors: Riders on the Storm
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu (John W. Bowden)
Subject: Re: Help with Geophagus? (F)
Originator: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Reply-To: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 00:39:12 GMT

From article <23690@scorn.sco.COM>, by jamesb (James Bahn):
> 
> I just moved my 7" Geophagus Daemon and my 5" Geophagus Surinamensis
> from the 29 gallon they were sharing with a 5" Pike, 2x6" Severums,
> and a 6" Pleco...into....a 50 gallon.  The only other fish in the 50
> are 3 Black Skirt Tetras and 3 White Clouds.
> 
> I'm running a Fluval 203 and a Penguin 300 on the 50.  Using normal
> coated gravel, temp around 78 degress, ammonia and nitrite undetectable,
> although cycling isn't complete.  Water is medium hard (tap water)
> with a near 7.0 pH.  The water was slightly softer and lower in pH (6.8)
> in the 29.

Geophagus daemon!  You should have gotten more than one!  If yours actually
is a daemon you have a very hard to find species that is notorious for
dying under the best of care.  These fish are soft-water fish with a very
low tolerance for metabolites in the water.  IMHO a 50gal is just barely
large enough for one of them while trying to maintain water-quality.  Another
point is that 78F may be way to cool for them.  Gernerally with northern
species of Geophagus you want the temp in the mid to upper 80's.  It sounds
like your pH is ok at neutral or slightly below.

> 
> OK, here are the problems...The Daemon found a hiding place and doesn't
> move.  He just floats.  That's the good news.  The Surinamensis just
> sits on the bottom, except when he comes up and acts like he's coughing.
> And he's lost color.  Maybe he's got gravel stuck somewhere?

These fish should both be boisterous and avid eaters.  I suspect that
the water-quality (read "NITRATES") is at an unacceptable level.  The cool 
temp may also be causing distress.  With your set-up I'd recommend 50% water-changes 
2-3 tiems per week, as a minimum.
> 
> The only food either will even look at is earthworm, and even then,
> there's no eagerness to eat.
> 
> These are truly my favorite fish; I bought the 50 so they'd be
> happier (I'll eventually move the small fish out and the other
> big fish in).  Any ideas?
> 

Get a bigger tank.......barring that, increase the temp and really
get aggressive with water-changes.  If you do not have an RO unit
maybe there is some way that you can get soft-water cheap....maybe not.
Both your Geophagus are soft-water species that come from water with
near 0 hardness.  I know that there are softener pillows that you can
buy but I have no experience with them.

Good Luck,
John
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Monday, 13 Apr 1992 18:14:40 EDT
From: <SRK8@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Brine Shrip Ans + A Few More Q.

Hi, I had asked previously about Brine shrimps, and I got quite a few replies.
I am posting that stuff for every ones benefit.    Brinw shrimp eggs are best s
tored in a dry place, where they can last for an awful lot of time. Freezers ar
e a good place to keep them. To hatch them we can use anywhere from 2-8 tsp of
salt per gallon. They hatch faster in less saline water, but last longer in the
 more saline one. A better choice than just "salt" would be to use commercial s
ea water or use 1 tsp of epson salts for every 4 tsp of rock salt. Soak the egg
s for an hour in fresh water before using them -- that makes them hatch faster
and more numerous. The water MUST be alkaline, so if the water is < 8pH, add
1/4 tsp of baking soda per 1 tsp of salt. With very vigorous aeration the hatch
es are fairly good. .......  Thanks a million to Oleg Kiselev.... All of the ab
ove said is his.
                 Temperature range of ( 24 to 27 degrees c). Time : 24 to 48 ho
urs. It seems that the higher one goes up the temp. range the faster they hatch
. To seperate shells from the shrimps :  Shine a light at one side of the jar a
nd it seems that the shrimp will move towards the light and the shells float to
 the top. I got this info from SAUNDERS ( I THINK ) and also the pet shop.
         I never did this shining light thing. When I saw that I had enough shr
imps hatched I just switched of teh aeration and waited for them to sette, the
shells ( most of them ) were at the top. I was surprised that it took me even l
ess than 20 hours to hatch most of the eggs.  I would appreciate any more insig
ht into this seperation business.   I would also like to know for how much time
they can be kept alive, so that I can feed the babies little by little.

          Once again thankx a lot to everyone who helped me out. Aquaria sure
 as hell is interesting.                  Marco Polo.
From: greg@enterprise.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Greg George  Area SSE - Midwest Area)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) Reef Crystals
Keywords: (M) Salt Mix
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:09:29 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: "Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, CA."
NNTP-Posting-Host: enterprise.central.sun.com

In article <14APR199212250169@rigel.tamu.edu>, kbm8572@rigel.tamu.edu (BRYAN MILLIGAN) writes:
|> In article <1992Apr13.190507.7113@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, mdc@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (barbara.guerin) writes...
|> > 
|> >Is the phosphate problem true with Reef Crystals??
|> >I was thinking of switching brands and trying Reef Crystals.
|> > 
|> 

I don't think that your phosphate problem is with Reef Crystals. I
throughly test my water at least twice a week for many different
problems, including phosphates. My phosphate level has been near
zero, and the algae growth in the tank has been light.

I used to use Instant Ocean, but had problems with low carbonate hardness.
Now using Reef Crystals, my carbonate hardness is ~ 9 kH and my fish
seem to be happy. Perhaps there is something else wrong with your tank?

greg
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 18:55:55 GMT
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Thoughts ....
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO