HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Aluminum Pots: good or bad
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 13:17:43 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1993Jan20.112024.17587@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), (David Ingham) writes:
) What's the story on Aluminum pots to boil your wort? If they are bad, why? 

It depends on the type.  I use a commercial grade pot of about 36
quarts capacity.  I think you would be hard pressed to find a better
vessel for brewing 5 gallon batches of all-grain beer.  Here's why:

(1) Aluminum conducts heat far better than stainless steel.  There
are no scorch rings on the bottom or sides of the pot, ever, even
after boiling a barleywine for 5 hours.  Cleanup involves a sponge and 
hot water.

(2) Aluminum conducts heat far better than stainless steel.  Thus
the rapid color changes from contact with hot spots in stainless steel
pans are eliminated.  You can brew a pale beer and still have a nice
1 hour boil.

The pot is made of thick aluminum (about the thickness of Calphalon),
and is a dull silvery color.  I acquired it from my mother, who was
in the restaurant going-out-of-business a while ago, so I have no
idea how much one of these would cost.  ($200 new?  $50 at an auction?)
It's imprinted "Commercial Aluminum Cookware, Toledo Ohio" and has an
NSF Testing Laboratory stamp on it.  I have never had any weird flavors,
etc., as a result of using this fine, fine, pot.

I keep hoping that someone who knows a little about food and metallurgy
will post some information about aluminum alloys and cookware in general,
as well as the food contact/cookware certification process. All I know about 
aluminum is that it is almost always alloyed with *something*.

================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
From: amazon@sgi.com (Stormwind)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Aeration
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:40:47 GMT
Organization: X Industries, Heavy Weapons R&D

(Steven M. Anastasi) writes:
>Oxygen is needed for the yeast to respirate.  The oxygen should be added
>when the wort is less than 85F or at least not hot.  Splashing or
>introducing oxygen when the wort is hot is referred to as
>hot-side aeration and is claimed to cause a darkening of the beer
>and a cardboard taste.
>
>It is not important if the yeast is added before or after aeration as
>long as too much time does not elapsed (for other reasons such as
>bacterial infection).

my previous four batches, after pouring
the hot wort into the cold water in 
the bucket, i placed the lid and vaporlock
on and let it cool overnight.  the next
morning, i carefully removed the vaporlock,
poured the yeast in through the itty bitty
hole, put the vaporlock back, and by the
time i came home it was bubbling away madly.  
i have not noticed any problems with getting
the yeast started with this technique, nor
any peculiar problems with taste in four
different batches.

however, i am now the happy owner of a 
wort chiller.  my current technique is 
to cool the wort down immediately after
boiling, then pour it into the water 
in the bucket.  then i throw in the yeast,
and seal the lid and have the vaporlock
in place.  if i'm not mistaken, the pouring
action from adding the wort to the water
should be sufficient to aerate the wort.
it remains to be tasted as to any flavor
differences this introduces.

			stormwind

			hell's amazon
From: ddjohnson@galaxy.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Aluminum Pots: good or bad
Date: 24 Jan 93 00:41:33 -0800
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

In article <1993Jan20.112024.17587@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, (David Ingham) writes:
> What's the story on Aluminum pots to boil your wort? If they are bad, why? 
> 

OK, its time I told this story. I was recently "invited" to a 
sales/dinner party where the salesperson was espousing the 
benefits of his cookware and stated that the gases comming off 
aluminium cookware were enough to kill a small bird.

I took particular interest in this statement, as I'm involved in 
the air quality field and one of my areas of responsibility just
happens to be an aluminium smelter. So, I ask, "just what are 
these gases that can kill this small bird?".

His response: "I don't know, sir, but our head office in the 
States (USA; I live in Canada) assures me that they are enough to 
kill a small bird".

Pretty scary stuff -  I wonder if they factored out the burner on 
high? Next time I visit the smelter (or cook) I'll keep my head 
down looking for all those small birds underfoot :-)

DDJ
-------------------------------------------------------------
Doug Johnson			"To live is to hope."
Smithers, British Columbia	 Cambodian proverb
CANADA				
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: What is chang ? 
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 12:58:10 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.183740.6718@novell.com>
 dheckman@novell.com (Diane Heckman) writes:

>Whilst in Sikkim (once a princely kingdom, now an occupied
>state in India wedged between Nepal and Bhutan, south of Tibet),
>I was given a drink called "chang".  According to the Lonely 
>Planet guidebook, chang is a lightly alcoholic drink made by 
>pouring boiling water through fermented millet.
>
>Personally, I wouldn't know a millet if I tripped over one.  The 
>stuff in the "mug" (a hollowed out section of bamboo) looked like 
>maroon pellets the size of mustard seeds with the husks cracked.

Millet is a grain, much as wheat or barley are grains.
  
>Is it possible to make "beer" in this fashion?  What was it that I 
>was drinking so willingly?

It wouldn't be too far off to consider this a primitive beer.  The millet is 
left to soak to encourage some sort of germination activity similar to 
malting.  It then ferments from wild yeasts in the air.  It is weak because 
it is hard to get all the starches to convert to sugar without controlled 
malting and then mashing.

>I thought I'd post to this group rather than alt.beer since the
>level of knowledge seems higher over here.....

Which means someone who knows more will probably correct me or add a little.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: st1xe@rosie.uh.edu (Brown, Derek S)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: time
Date: 28 Jan 1993 13:40 CST
Organization: University of Houston
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: rosie.uh.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Its safe to leave the must in the secondary fermenter as long as no sediment
is left on the bottom for an extended period of time. (your definition of
extended).  What can happen is if the must is left on the sediment too long,
the sediment, which is basically dead yeast cells and other organic stuff,
will begin to decompose.  The result can be a foul (not fowl) order and/or
taste in your finished product.

As far as letting something age in the secondary fermenter, it is ok.  I
once siphoned my cleared elderberry wine off the sediment into another
bottle and let it sit there for 5 months.  The result was some wonderful
elderberry wine.  After adding in 1 1/2 years of bottle aging, the finished
product was superb.  Another good note is that extra time in another
secondary fermenter will allow any excess fermentation to occur, as well as
clearing, of your finished product.  If your finished product is too acidic,
then letting it age in a large bottle will give you a more consistent
product, rather then letting several bottles age at different rates (which
does occur).

Derek


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: HELP!!! Wort seems dark for a light syrup.
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:54:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan24.162236.19182@cs.uwp.edu>
 shaub@cs.uwp.edu (Jeffery Shaub) writes:

>Except my wort sure seems dark.  I'm using 2 3lb cans of John Bull hopped
>"light" malt syrup, but the wort looks like a dark beer.  Will this
>lighten up during ferment or am I gonna have a heavy beer?

It looks darker in the fermenter than it will look in your glass.  Still, 
you are going to end up with a darker colored beer than you might expect 
from exposure to US megabrews.  But remember that color has nothing to do 
with "heavy"ness.  

>Also, I'm using EDME dry yeast and the package says ferment at 65/75 deg.
>My basement only maintains a solid 60/62 deg.  Can I move the wort down
>there now that ferment has started or will this low temperature ruin the
>wort??

I don't know about EDME, but most ale yeasts seem to work OK at that temp, 
though not great.  I have settled on fermenting a few days in a warmer room 
and then racking to a secondary which stays in the 50-60F basement until I 
bottle.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:8609 alt.beer:8635
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 20:20:00 CST
From: alan parman <U30585@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject:    To Scoop or Not to Scoop

The book I have on beer brewing recommends scooping off the 'foam' from the
top of the wort in the primary fermentation.  It claims that much of the
very bitter oils from the hops is carried in this foam and that unless you
do this you will get very bitter beer.  The book's suggested alternative is to
use less hops initially.  Other people have told me that the recipies in this
book call for much more hops than they usually use, and that they never scoop.
Most recipies, even light ales, call for 2 ozs. of hops, and some strong stouts
as much as six ozs.

Which method do you in netland use?  Do you add more hops and scoop?   Add less
hops and don't scoop?   Other combinations?

Does scooping remove other wanted stuff?  I am really interested in getting a
strong hops 'nose' to the beer i.e. very aromatic, but not real bitter.  Is dry
hopping the answer?

For a typical ale, say two cans extract in 5 gallons water, how much hops do
you usually use and do you scoop?

Next question: I found a bag of grain at my local brewshop labeled
 'caramel 20'.  Is this the same as crystal malt?  What is the significance
of the '20'.  It tasted slightly sweet like some stuff labled crystal malt
and seemed to still contain the husks.

Thanks in advance for your replies.  You may e-mail to me if you want to save
bandwidth.

AP [:{)
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.brewing:8610 alt.beer:8636
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
Subject: Re: To Scoop or Not to Scoop
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:26:07 GMT
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University

In article <93026.202000U30585@uicvm.uic.edu> alan parman <U30585@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:

>do this you will get very bitter beer.  The book's suggested alternative is to
>use less hops initially.  Other people have told me that the recipies in this
>book call for much more hops than they usually use, and that they never scoop.
>Most recipies, even light ales, call for 2 ozs. of hops, and some strong stouts
>as much as six ozs.
>
>Which method do you in netland use?  Do you add more hops and scoop?   Add less
>hops and don't scoop?   Other combinations?

  Don't scoop, don't put more than 1 oz of bittering hops (for a regular
  brew). Do rack to secondary as soon as feasible, typically 2 days.

>
>Does scooping remove other wanted stuff?  I am really interested in getting a
>strong hops 'nose' to the beer i.e. very aromatic, but not real bitter.  Is dry
>hopping the answer?
  Yes, dry hopping is the answer. You can add some at the very end of the boil,
  and later in the secondary.

>For a typical ale, say two cans extract in 5 gallons water, how much hops do
>you usually use and do you scoop?
  1 oz or less for bittering, 1 oz or less for flavor and aroma (medium
  alpha hops: Hallertau, Goldings, Cascades, etc)





Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: zulauf@orbit.Colorado.EDU (Mike Zulauf)
Subject: wort chiller questions
Originator: zulauf@orbit
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 21:55:10 GMT

Howdy All!
     I have a few questions regarding wort-chillers.  I am interested
in making my own chiller.  The type I have decided on is a copper coil
immersed in an ice-water bath.  The reason for this style is the desire
to conserve water (Colorado being a fairly arid state.)
     I am curious if anyone else uses this type of chiller.  If so, how
well does it work?  How long does it take to chill 5 gallons of wort to
a reasonable temperature?  How much ice is required?  What length of
what diameter tubing was used?
     Anything else I should know before leaping in and just making the
thing?  Enquiring minds want to know!

Thanks for any and all replies,
                                Mike Zulauf
                                zulauf@orbit.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cobb@athena.cs.uga.edu (Jason Cobb)
Subject: Cleaning you bucket
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:47:51 GMT

What is the best way to clean your large 6-gal bucket for homebrew.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Plain Old Apple Juice Concentrate?
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 20:47:33 GMT

Colette:

As long as the juice has no preservative (beware of potassium sorbate)
you should have no problem.  Not all juices will necessarily produce a
good product when fermented, so you might be advised to make a few small
test batches to be sure that the blend of apples used for a particular
juice yields a palatable cider.  They don't have to be completely finished;
if the initial fermentation is strong you should be able to get a good
idea of what taste to expect after a month or so (if it tastes OK at
that point - after most of the sugar is gone - you can expect the cider
to be reasonably well balanced).  After you've selected the juice you
are going to use (I've wanted to try the Loblaw's president's
choice Cox Orange Pippin), all you need to do is add yeast (assuming
you want ale strength cider - apple juice usually has an O.G. of 1.050
or so).  Picking yeast is a trickier business.

Suggestions for unattenuative yeasts:  Wyeast European Ale 
                                       Red Star Epernay II


For dry cider: standard ale yeast
               champagne yeast

Whatever yeast you choose, I suggest you prepare a starter either using
malt extract (unhopped) or apple juice with yeast nutrient.  
Also, try to ferment at a cool temp. to avoid off flavours and prevent an
overly vigorous primary fermentation from scrubbing all the apple aroma out
with the CO2.  

Hope this helps, and good luck with the feast
Rick C.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Adam Edwards)
Subject: Re: Year end report
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 10:35:20 GMT

The 2% decline in total beer sales last year is indeed saddening, but
bearable considering the small increase of late.  BUT DON'T WORRY, 
this figure will increase signifigantly starting Sunday(my 21st
birthday  :) :) :) :)

		Adam
awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Re: REQ: Wheat beer recipe/help wanted
Organization: TECHbooks --- Public Access UNIX --- (503) 220-0636
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:16:21 GMT

ijn@bnr.co.uk (Ian Normington) writes:


>Hello,

>	I had my first wheat beer this weekend, a Dunkelweizen(sp?) from
>	the Munich area I think. I really enjoyed it and would like to
>	have a go at brewing my own. So far I've only done extract and
>	partial mash recipes, so I'm hoping that the process isn't to
>	much different.

>	Any advice will be gratefully received.
>	
>	Thanks,
>		Ian

The best possible advice is to find a copy of Eric Warner's book, German
Wheat Beer, just published by the Association of Brewers, in Boulder,
Colorado, USA.  This is part of their series of book on various
beerstyles and is one of the two or three best in the series.  An
excellent survey of the style, with very specific and detailed
information about producing weizenbiers.  Eric has a degree from
Weihenstephan (or however it's spelled!) in Germany and practical
experience in German breweries.  Not to mention he took first place this
year in the category at the AHA national competition -- with one of the
most wonderful beers it's ever been my pleasure to drink (I was a judge
on that panel).  He _definitely_ knows what he's writing about.

--Jeff Frane

-- 
gummitch@techbook.COM  Public Access UNIX at (503) 220-0636 (1200/2400)
From: devine@olympus.CS.Berkeley.EDU (Bob Devine)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: using steel cut oats in stout
Date: 22 Jan 1993 23:22:04 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: olympus.cs.berkeley.edu
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

schaker@centauri.unm.edu (Stefan Yen Chakerian) writes:
: elwin@gamma.DOMAIN.NOT.SET (Lawrence E. Brown) writes:
: >Just what the hell are "stell cut oats" and where do you get
: >them.
: They are available at "natural food" stores, usually in the bulk
: section.  They're real cheap, too.  Basically, the oats are chopped
: up into little bits.

Steel cut oats are whole kernel oats that are, as Stefan said,
just chopped up.  This is in contrast to "regular" oats that
are hot-rolled.  To roll oats it is necessary for the miller to
make the kernel pliable so they usually heat or steam the oats.
If the grain were not treated, the rollers would produce flour.

The result is that the starch in rolled oats is ready for use
while the cut oats must be soaked and gelantized.  To prepare
cuts oats, you basically cook it on the stove-top to form that
glue-y mess that you eat for breakfast.

Bob Devine
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: ancient beer
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:04:42 GMT

In article <1k1es3INNmaj@hp-col.col.hp.com>
 rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) writes:

>NOT!  You must have heard this from a friend of a friend (etc.)!  The 
>results were quite drinkable.  And it wasn't a group of paleontologists and
>archaelolgists, either.  It was Fritz Maytag of Anchor Brewing Company
>and Solomon H. Katz, a bioanthropologist at The University Museum,
>University of Pennsylvania.

Well, although I didn't taste it personally, I heard several first-hand 
reports.  They basically said the brew was drinkable, but not particularly 
tasty or enjoyable, and neither of them would really want to drink any more.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc)
Subject: ancient beer
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:36:12 GMT

Just saw a news blurb that says 3 U of Pennsylvania archaeological
chemists discovered beer residue in jars in Iran and Iraq that are over 
5,000 years old.

Tom

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rob@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (Robert J Cuthbertson)
Subject: Re: Netnews Administration Must Be Hard
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:36:26 GMT

Joesph N. Hall (joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us) writes:
+------
|First, it was:
|> From: mlh10@hohnbrew.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Michael Hohnbaum)
|
|And then, just a few articles later:
|> Reply-To: elwin@gamma.DOMAIN.NOT.SET (Lawrence E. Brown)
|
|What's the world coming to, anyway?  Should we establish a scholarship
|fund so that we can send copies of the proper O'Reilly books to these
|sites?
|
|================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
|uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
|2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
|Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
|redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
+------

Only one problem -- we'll never know where these sites are!

--Rob Cuthbertson, rob@rintintin.Colorado.EDU
ps: Joseph, does the copyright notice include permission to trim off the .sig?
From: arthur@sgi.com (Arthur Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: how to add body?
Date: 23 Jan 93 00:49:41 GMT
Reply-To: arthur@chiba (Arthur Evans)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

In article <1993Jan20.190540.9623@sco.com> stewarte@sco.COM (nothing a bullet in the belly couldn't cure) writes:
>
>Joan of Arc was burned for claiming that pepke@scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke) said:
>>Here are some things which can increase the perception or body; they may 
>>be used separately or in combination.
>>
>>1) Use all malt extract and no corn sugar or sucrose.
>>2) Use small quantities of specialty grains in the boil (< 1 lb).
>>3) Use larger quantities of specialty grains (1-3 lb) and do a partial mash.
>>4) Add maltodextrine or lactose.
>
>I'm curious about 2&3 here.  Is it really necessary to do a partial mash
>if you're using a pound or more of specialty grains?  My first two batches
>have used 1.5 and 2 pounds of specialty grains, respectively, and based
>on before-and-after tasting of the grains most of the sugars seemed to
>have been extracted (less than scientific, I know).  What's the advantage 
>of mashing specialty grains?

I think it depends somewhat on the specialty grain involved.
In crystal malt, the starches are already converted to sugars, 
so you don't really need to do a mash.  And if you're just adding
a half pound or pound of a roasted malt, you're not so much interested
in extracting fermentables as you are in extracting flavor.  After
all, there's not much in the way of fermentables left in chocolate
malt or black malt.

However, if you're adding several pounds of munich malt (frinstance)
it should be contributing a significant amount of sugar--so you'll probably 
want to mash it, so that you don't waste all that potential sugar. 

OK
arthur
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing