HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: More on cichlids [F, duh]
Date: 26 Jan 93 04:42:42 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Killifish Farm on the Hill

ayresr@gtewd.mtv.gsc.gte.com (Rich Ayres) writes:
>Has there been any difinitive answer as to the classification of said fish?

One thing for sure: they are *NOT* Apistogramma.

>I had once seen them listed as Microgeophagus Ramirez (hence Ram?), then
>later as Apistogramma Ramirez, or something like that.  What is now 
>accepted, and is this the same as a 'butterfly cichlid'?

I have seen Microgeophagus ramirezi and Papillochromis ramirezi, with the 
latter being used by more reputable publications.

>How about my Bolivian Rams?  Is Apistogramma Altispinosa correct?  (they're

Not Apistogramma for sure, but definitely altispinosa.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Subject: (M) Racoon Butterfly
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 03:05:31 GMT

Hi everyone:

A few days ago I posted a question on racoon butterflies (how
well do they eat, are they difficult to keep, etc.) and I only
received one reply (thanks again, Bob Staaf).

Surely there must be other netters out there who have or have
had racoon butterflies.  I would really appreciate hearing any
advice on keeping them.

Thanks for your help...

------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dominick@protocol.zycad.com (Dom Paniscotti)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Marine/Freshwater groups
Date: 28 Jan 1993 13:42:06 -0500
Organization: Protocol, a Division of ZYCAD Corporation
Distribution: world
Reply-To: dominick@protocol.zycad.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: hayaku.protocol.zycad.com


I asssume this is a FAQ, but I don't remeber seeing it in the list, 
so here goes.  Is there any reason why this group is not split into two groups
like rec.aquaria.m & rec.aquaria.fw?  I know it would make my life easier to 
only have to read the marine articles.
			-Dom

-- 
-- 
Dom Paniscotti                  internet: dominick@protocol.zycad.com
Protocol, a Division of ZYCAD   phone:    (201) 347-7900            
500 International Drive         fax:      (201) 347-0303        
Mt. Olive, NJ 07828
From: paulc@tsien.Eng.Sun.COM (Paul Tsien)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: * 55 gl. Aquarium w/stand & cannope and more ...*
Date: 27 Jan 1993 22:28:06 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: paulc@tsien.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: tsien

FOR SALE!!  PRICE REDUCED!!
55 gl. Aquarium wet/dry system w/stand & cannope + misc.!

Only one year old!
For salt water or fresh water setup!
Adds life and colors to any room/office!  

55 gl. TRUVU Plexi Aquarium (4'x20"x13") + wet/dry filter + stand & cannope
* Black background with corner pre-filter
* Light and fixture
* TRUVU Wet/Dry filter system with submersible Eheim 1250 pump  
* Beautiful black Oak integrated (wet/dry filter enclosed) 
  stand and cannope        	                              $599

Magnum 350 canister filter (350 gl./hour)		      $ 49
Aquanetics 15IL UV sterilizer (480 gl./hour)                  $ 69
Sander venturi protein skimmer 
  with AquaClear 802 powerhead (400 gl./hour)                 $ 89
Submersible heater, air pump and other misc. items            $ 29

Paid over $2,000 new.  
For complete setup asking $699 or best offer!

Call Paul at 415 336-0815 work
             415 325-8566 home (Palo Alto, CA)


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tan@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (David Tan,Box 219 Baker Lab,54810,2720402)
Subject: [F] Newbie question: red mouth and fins
Originator: tan@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:56:08 GMT

Hi folks,

Here's a sick fish question:  I've got, among other things, a pair of
"bala sharks" (which are about as chondrichthian as the other fish in the
tank,) one of which is swimming a bit listlessly around with its fins tucked
in.  Moreover, there appears to be bleeding around the mouth and tail, as
well as a pale white spot on its side just below the dorsal fin (it's not
ich.)  Its fins are also pale (usually they're glossy with very black 
edges.)

Help!  Does anyone know what this might be, and how I might treat it?
I'm quite fond of this fish.

Thanks in advance,


Dave

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10315 alt.aquaria:6706
From: John Opsomer <jo14@cornell.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Big Move coming up
Date: 22 Jan 1993 20:25:14 GMT
Organization: Cornell University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: cu-dialup-0421.cit.cornell.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7
X-XXDate: Fri, 22 Jan 93 20:29:05 GMT

In article <2838@grivel.une.edu.au> Robert Bennetts.,
rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au writes:
>	Also, when moving, should they be bagged with just air from an air
pump, or 
>should I try to get a small bottle of oxygen.

I don't really have an opinion on much ofhte other stuff you talk about
(except that moving your fish 3-4 times a year is definitely NOT
advisable!), but here's an alternative for your oxygen question.  When I
moved (a 8-hour drive), I bagged the fish and went to my favorite fish
store, and they injected oxygen in the bags for the big trip.  If your
trip is more than a few hours, get oxygen, and try to arrange a deal with
a pet shop.  It's much easier than trying it yourself, even if they
charge you for it.

John Opsomer
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10281 alt.aquaria:6690
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) [F] Severums in a community?
Date: 22 Jan 93 03:21:55 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> I wouldn't consider firemouths to be "relatively peaceful."  Mine have
> been quite aggressive. They were able to hold there own against two
> pairs of breeding convicts. I also would hesitate to consider severums
> as "relatively peaceful" as well.  Although they may not be as
> intolerant as some other cichlids--mine didn't go out of its way to
> harass other fish, being mostly content to be left alone, it didn't
> hesitate to assert itself when another fish came too close. 

By relatively peaceful, I mean relative to Red-devil, Green Terror, Jack
Dempsey, Convict, Dovii.  Although I do admit that, from what I've heard,
Severums are indeed more agressive than I'd thought previously.

> A firemouth would, IMHO, definately be a poor choice for a community
> tank, unless it was a tank of similar sized fish. A firemouth and
> severum could probably co-exist, provided they both had space to
> establish their own territories. I'd strongly advise against an
> angelfish/severum combination as the angelfish will fare badly against
> a severum. I don't know much about a Blue Acara. I think that a
> severum would be fairly aggressive against any other cichlids in the
> same tank. If the other cichlid were about the same size and of a
> similarly moderate-level of aggressiveness *AND* both had space to
> establish their own territories, then they might make a good
> combination. 

I generally assume, when speaking of a community-cichlid tank that this implies
cichlids of ~equal size, based on the fact that around 90% of all cichlids will
eat/pick on anything smaller than they are.  Firemouths, Blue Acaras, and
convicts all get ~ the same size, but the convict -- in my opinion -- is the
one that would be the obvious choice to leave out of the community tank. 
(Unless there is unlimited space:-)

Anywho......   8-)

				-Matt
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: seove@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (ERIC OVERTON)
Subject: Raising Arawanas (sp?).  Help.
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: 22 Jan 1993 14:38 EST  

Need tips on raising an Arawana.  I have a juvenile (about 2").

Thanks.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10280 alt.aquaria:6689
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: cichlids
Date: 22 Jan 93 03:35:22 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> Perhaps you were thinking of Central american cichlids? By and large,
> they tend to be an extremely pugnacious group of fish; for example,
> firemouths, jack dempseys, salvinis, convicts, and texas. 

I just saw a 5 inch Texas cichlid tonight sharing a 55gal with a Red Devil,
some little yellow/violet striped African cichlid, and a couple of other
cichlids, and let me tell you -- that thing was not just defending its
territory in the tank, it was going after the other cichlids all over the tank! 
Those guys are _mean_!  Makes my 6" Oscar look like a neon tetra!   :-)

				-Matt
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: santosa@gwan.esd.sgi.com (Gunawan Ali-Santosa)
Subject: Royal Gramma building nest ?
Reply-To: santosa@gwan.esd.sgi.com (Gunawan Ali-Santosa)
Organization: sgi
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 01:45:34 GMT

We have 135 gallon reef tank here in our building, and
somebody spotted our Royal Gramma picked up plants and
looks like he/she was building nest, it built
it on the back of the tank between rocks, 
the back wall is covered with
rocks. 

We only have 1 Royal Gramma there, so should we
buy 1 more hopefully to get 1 pair ?
Any comments/advice ?

Thanks !!!
From: dmfernan@fajita.engr.ucdavis.edu (David Manuel Fernandez)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (M) Venturi Protien Skimmers
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:40:30 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering - University of California - Davis


Has anyone had any experience with the Seaquest venturi skimmer ?
I bought one last Nov. and it has not produced any brown foam at all.

The tank is 75 gallons with a 20 gallon sump.
It has inverts and fish.
All readings are at 0ppm.
Salinity is 1.022

A prefilter drains into the wet/dry, then a little giant 2MDQ
pumps the water up to the skimmer (it hangs on the back of the tank).

The skimmer makes a lot of bubbles and white froth, but it never 
makes any brown gunk or fills the collecter with anything.

Any suggestions ?

-david
From: gwynne@stein.u.washington.edu (Kristan Geissel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: High pH - Why, why, eternally why?
Date: 21 Jan 1993 23:09:39 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: pnw
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu

Details:	2 Tanks
		10 gals each
		Both being filtered with floss and activated charcoal
		Both with gravel
		Both heated to about 76 degrees
		One with plastic plants
		One without any plants

		Water is drawn from tap
		Chlorinated via setting out and/or dechlorinator drops
		No clue as to nitrite or ammonia level
		Soft H20
		Water changes when I feel guilty (since I feel guilty most
			of the time, the tank with fish gets a third of 
			its water changed about every 3 weeks with 
			serious attempts to clean up crud from bottom.

		One tank with a male betta
		One tank with NO fish	
		
		pH from tap = 7.0 (pale green on the chart)
		pH from BOTH tanks = 8.5 (dark royal blue on the chart)

Question:	Why is pH so high?  My betta is very tolerant
		but I want to get this straightened out before I
		add fish to its tank and get fish for the other tank.

		I thought it was unclean water in the betta's tank
		but there are no fish in the other tank to pollute
		it because the Ph is just as high. 

Any net.wisdom out there?  I have the FAQ on water quality but 
nothing seemed to cover this.

Thanks in advance.

Kristan
gwynne@u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: muleman@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (michael.a.muhlberger)
Subject: Inexpensive Source for Aquaria Supplies
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 00:46:04 GMT

In response to the request for inexpensive
aquaria supplies, try the following:

Mail Order Pet Shop

phone- 1 800 366 7387

This mail order company is manned 24 hours and 
is a supplier of marine and freshwater supplies.

Request the Aquarium supply catalog.

I recently received their catalog, and although I have not
received my first order yet they do have reasonable
prices compared to retail. (wholesale)

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kevin@modcomp.com (Kevin Smith)
Subject: TOP FATHOM protein skimmers?  Anyone have one?  Comments?
Organization: MODCOMP, an AEG company
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 05:55:34 GMT
Summary: Lookin for info.

Anyone have a TOP FATHOM venturi protein skimmer.  I saw them at
a local Salt Water Aquarium show and am wondering if anyone out
there has any comments about them?

--

Kevin Smith                O      |~|  T          uunet!modcomp!glsdev!kevin
MODCOMP, an AEG company   /\_     |_|  I          if (windspeed < 15)
1650 W McNab Road        /\ ;====== |  L              go_diving();
P.O. Box 6099           / / |~~~~~~~l  T          else
Fort Lauderdale,Florida 33340-6099                    go_windsurfing();
From: brucehuy@hardy.u.washington.edu (Want to play CONQUEST?)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Thanks for the Gourami Info.
Date: 28 Jan 1993 00:18:17 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: brucehuy@u.washington.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: hardy.u.washington.edu

Just wanted to say thanks for the breeding info.  Unfortunately, the local 
fish store is temporarily out of water sprite or any other type of 
floating plant.  Guess I'll just have to wait until then.  
Thanks.


Huy Phung
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: A20076@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Dan Whitaker)
Subject: Building aquariums
Organization: Motorola
Date: 21 Jan 1993 11:31:28 MST

I built a 90 gallon aquarium several years ago. I had no idea what
kind or thickness of glass to use so I played it safe and used
half inch plate glass with all the edges sanded smooth.  It ended
up costing me more than I could have bought it for at that time.
It was a good experience though. I would like to attempt it again.
Has anyone any idea about what is the best kind of glass and what
thickness for different dimensions?  Are there other suitable
materials available? How about Plexiglass?
From: jamaro@dante.nmsu.edu (AMARO)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [ALL] Skimmer out of Biologic 402
Date: 27 Jan 93 22:38:46 GMT
Organization: New Mexico State University
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


  HI all
	I was thinking has anyone powered a skimmer with the power head
that is being used in a biologic 402?
		Thanks 
		Jason J. Amaro
email-jamaro@dante.nmsu.edu
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Fight Racism
--------------
From: rick@billnext.tamu.edu (Rick Huff)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Building aquariums
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:53:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: billnext.tamu.edu

..Stuff deleted...

> The basic assembly order was:
> 
> Build the wooden box
> Paint it
> Seal it

..Stuff deleted...

This looks like a great idea.

I am thinking of building or purchasing a 1.5D x 2.0H x 3.5W aquarium to house  
African Cichlids.  Does anybody know what thickness glass to use?  Would 3/8"  
be too thin.  1/2" glass is $112!  Maybe I am too cheap, but this seems like a  
lot of money for just one side of a homebuilt tank. 
--
Rick Huff, Systems Analyst (409) 845-8454 (rick@billnext.tamu.edu)
CSC, Computing Account Services, Texas A&M University
From: vseaman@access.digex.com (Vanya Seaman)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Tilapia: Of any value to aquarists?
Date: 26 Jan 1993 00:01:17 -0500
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: access.digex.com

>Concensus question:  I have a number of medium-sized tilapia.
>Are they of any value?  Shouls I even consider talking to a shop
>about giving them away?  I'm running out of room and I've
>got 1 male and 4 females (Spawn-o-rama), every week or so.


	Tilapia. Yuck-o (I used to eat them, now I have to keep them).
	I work at a pet shop in Virginia (Yes as a fish person),
and a guy walked in and gave us a pair of Tilapia mariae (not knowing
yet the fish laws of the Commonwealth of Virginia), and being a
for-profit organization, we eagerly grabbed them, and they spawned in
the tank they were in together (a 45 G) with no nudge from us.
	Well, to make a short story even shorter, we've got a bunch
tilapia fry that we can't sell, and really can't do much with.

	Value? Sheesh. They're not that great of fish. If I were
you, I'd get rid of them all. They're terrible fish. 

ha ha! I forgot to say that on my first day of work, in front of my
boss, our resident male T. mariae BIT ME! It just jumped out of the
tank and attached itself to my knee for a second... oh well.


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pkostov@whsun1.whoi.edu (Paul Kostovick)
Subject: Stony Coral
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: NOAA-NMFS
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 19:38:14 GMT

Pleast forgive me for my first entry into this newsgroup. I had diffuculty
locating the newuser announcement article.

  I wish to inquire about the necessary nutrient requirements and water
quality to maintain stony corals (emerald).  I am especially interested
in information about the nutrients in the water because I am aware that
if not maintained properly the coral will detach from it's shell.  

  I maintain a 75 gallon marine tank and currently am having great success
with my stony coral.  I keep the fish population down to decrease the 
dispersion of nitrates but regrettably do not know enough about stony corals.
I just want to learn as much as I can from others who currently maintain
corals in their tank. I thank anyone in advance if they may help me in 
any way.  Again I am very sorry about my first posting

Paul Kostovick   pkostov@whsun1.wh.whoi.edu
From: jamaro@dante.nmsu.edu (AMARO)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: test
Date: 27 Jan 93 22:34:51 GMT
Organization: New Mexico State University
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

this is a test
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10335 alt.aquaria:6715
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F]:  Power Filters
Date: 23 Jan 1993 12:14:35 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

vseaman@access.digex.com (Vanya Seaman) writes:
> 	[asking about the aquaclear 300 and the penguin 300 w/bio]
> 
>...
> 	I had a 20 tank with a Penguin 160 biowheel driving it, and
> I added two swordtails for a few days and then stocked it with
> African Clawed Frogs, I've yet to have an ammonia or nitrite spike
> of ANY kind at all. Ammonia and Nitrite levels have been 0 ever
> since day one, and the tank's been running for the last 5 months.
> 	Problem- The penguin doesn't keep the tank as CLEAN
> as the AquaClear.

The Penguine biowheel setup gets my vote.  Without the biowheel this
is a so so filter setup but with the biowheel and media baskets it
gets my vote for several reasons.

Easy to clean: The filter pads are easily removed and rinsed under tap water.
Stable biofilter: Because the bio wheel never needs cleaning.
Media baskets: A easy way to add/remove granular media.

The reason these filters do not do a good job of clearing the water is
the bonded filter floss (blue pad).  When clean this floss allows small
particles to pass through but given time enough solids will lodge in the
pad to reduce the size of the particles that it will pass.  So it is a
trade off between clear water and nitrate levels.

In spite of the above I think that the better bio filtration of the
wheel (true wet/dry action) and the fact that the bio filter never
get disrupted by cleaning more then makes up for the faults of this
filter.  

I have had three 300's with biowheels running for about three weeks.
They seem to drasticly reduce the nitrite spike when cycling tanks
but as normal the sample is small so take it with a little salt.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Subject: Re: What kind of tank sealer?
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: BNR
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:18:38 GMT

In article <hellmann.727977425@sycamore.cs.scarolina.edu>,
hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann) wrote:
> 
> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
> 
> >Hi all,
> 
> >	I am getting ready to seal the office tank and I was wondering if  
> >anyone out there has suggestions on what kind of silicone to use on it. Are  
> >there any brands specifically for aquariums? 
> 
> Scott,
> 
> The cheapest way to do it would be to go to the Wal-mart or K-mart and
> pick up a monster tube of GE silicone.  It says that it is safe for
> aquariums, and best of all, the monster tube only costs about $2.50
> compared to a little tube of special aquarium sealant for 4 or 5.  The
> only thing is that you need a caulk gun, but you can probably buy one
> for about $2 if you don't know someone who has one.
> 
> -Samantha 

That's right Samantha, one word of caution though.  Try to make sure that
it specifically says something about aquarium use. Some sealer is intended
for uses such as bathtup calk and contains fungicides!

dam

==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================
From: jrh@cup.portal.com (John R Hoffman)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M] Questions from a novice
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 12:01:22 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: na

I'm a novice to aquariums and I've got a few questions for the
veterans here.

Two weeks ago I started a 30 gallon salt-water tank.  I've got an
UGF with 2 Perfecto 200-gph power heads, a Whisper 2 filter, and
a 150-watt heater.

I started with 6 damselfish: 2 yellow-tailed blues, 2 dominos
(3 spot), and 2 four-stripes (black tailed).  All are small sized.
The dealer recommended feeding them frozen brine-shrimp, about a
1/2 inch square, once a day.

My intention is to just have fish until I become more experienced
with this.  I'd like to add a tang (yellow or blue), a clown, and
maybe more once the cycle has completed.  So far everything seems
to be going okay.  The water is clear and the fish are eating.

My questions are:

 - Is that enough food for the fish?  Is that once a day feeding
   enough?  They seem to be very hungry at feeding time.

 - Should I be feeding them any other kinds of food?

 - If I have to leave for the weekend, what should I do about feeding them?

 - The dealer recommended 1.020; is that okay or should it be higher?

 - I've got the temperature set to between 76-78; is that okay?

 - With a tang and a clown, would that be too many fish for 30 gallons
   or could I even have more?

 - One of the yellow-tailed blues seems very aggressive.  Is there
   anything I can do about this?  Should I get rid of him?

 - The dealer will do free water tests.  Should I really invest in my
   own testing kit?

Any other recommendations would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

John Hoffman
jrh@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria