HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cole@rtsg.mot.com (Timothy Cole)
Subject: RE: CV joints on 88 Golf
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 01:56:48 GMT

Hello 

Just two weeks ago my outer CV joints (driver side) went out.  
Instead of buying a CV joint and rebuilding it, I bought the 
whole axial assembly.  It was easier and much cheaper as BOTH 
CV joints are included, boots, grease, etc.

The local parts stores around the Milwaukee area were asking $75 
to roughly $100 for 1 CV joint.  Well, one store suggested I buy the
>>whole axial for $112.<< 

For your money you get the inner and outer joints, new boots, and
no mess, etc.

I would be interested to hear what others think about this option.  It
worked for me.

Oh, BTW, be sure to have the 12 point "star tool" to disconect the 
inner portion of the axial.  If you don't have one, take the time
to get it or you WILL have problems.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Hi There. Well, it finally happened. I've started hearing that clicking
noise from the front as I accelerate or decelerate, which gets worse if I'm
turning. From all I've read here, and from the Bentley manual, it looks
like the outer CV joints are gone. Before I attempt to fix the problem, I
have a couple of questions. I'd appreciate any tips, advice, etc. 

1. How complicated an operation is this? Should I schedule a whole day, a
few hours, a few weeks ;-)?
2. While I'm at it, I figure I should replace both sides (should I?).
Should I replace the inner joints too?
3. I'll probably take the inner joints out and examine them. Is that a
lengthy operation?
4. Any special tools that I would need? It looks like only a vise grip
(got it), a soft mallet (got it) and the 12-sided sockets (will get) are
needed (and lots of grease). Anything else?
5. Finally, the car is drivable so far, but until I get around to doing it,
is it a good idea to keep driving?

Thanks. As I said, I'd appreciate any comments, advice, tips, etc.

Take care.

toufic

-- 

	Tim Cole
	Motorola Inc.
	Cellular Infrastructure Group
From: tiok_kl@tac.fi (Kari Leminen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Date: 9 Oct 92 12:05:48 +0300
Organization: City of Tampere

>> In article <18691.2ad2cc73@ecs.umass.edu> sylveste@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>>
>>  I have to admit that I don't know much about Volvo (Audi is my speciality)
>>but Volvo did use an Audi 5 cylinder in one of their models in the early
>>eighties.  I believe that it was the 240.  I have seen one.
>>

          You have seen it right.

>In article <1992Oct7.192627.25045@morrow.stanford.edu>, ari@leland.Stanford.EDU
> (Ari Ollikainen) writes:
> 
> It's true that you saw an engine that *appeared* to *you* like an Audi
> 5cylinder BUT you apparently did not stop to look closely enough to 
> acertain the number of cylinders...That diesel engine in the "early 
> eighties...240.." was the 6cylinder diesel from the VW LT72 I referred
> to in my previous post. 
> 
> How do I know this?
> 
> I *OWNED* a 1982 VOLVO GL DIESEL sedan! 
> 
> Any questions? I *also* owned, for a short time, a Westfalia SvenHedin
> motorhome based on the VW LT72 platform which was *also* powered by the 
> same 6 cylinder diesel engine...
> 
  	
          Yes, I have one question: How is it possible that I've seen
	  hundreds of 5 cylinder DIESEL Volvos (240)? 
	  The 5 cylinder diesel is exactly the same engine than 6 cylinder
	  version ,only one cylinder is missing. 
          That 5 cyl. diesel gave about 65 hp (6 cyl./82hp).


------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
tiok_kl@tac.fi       Department of information technology     
Kari Leminen                      Tampere                    
                                  Finland 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Subject: Re: UPDATE: Squareback isn't holding charge.
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 05:35:28 GMT

My 1970 Squareback had a bum fuel pump relay when I bought it.  There
is a problem between the brain and the relay, so I just wired it in 
to the ignition switch.  Works fine.  

And as far as I know, there is only ONE fuel pump relay.  There is a main
relay under the seat however. 

I had to replace the voltage regulator when i got a new battery.  I 
could hear the old regulator ticking like a clock, not switching
fast enough.  Now whenever I acclerate hard on the freeway I hear
a faint high pitched sound like a dog whistle.

My license-plate light doesn't get any juice.  How do i trace
the circuit?  Any advice?  I don't want to get a ticket.

Thanks,

David

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: esc@ulysses.att.com (E. Steve Crandall)
Subject: Oil Pressure in GTi
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 01:15:29 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill


I had the low pressure light and buzzer come on briefly this morning after
about 1 minute of running.  I immeidately pulled over to check the oil,
which was fine.

The details are:

	83 GTi with 88k miles
	Mobil 1 always used (since 1k miles)
	burns about 1 qt in 2.5k miles when oil and filter are replaced
	Light/buzzer came on around 2k rpm and has not repeated
	Very high humidity

Any ideas?  What is the failure mode of an oil pressure sensor?  

thanks

Steve Crandall
evan.crandall@att.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rweiers@nyx.cs.du.edu (ron weiers)
Subject: re: Diesel +/-
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 14:55:25 GMT



Regarding T. Guptill's posting on Diesel advantages/disadvantages,
I'd summarize it as:
      Diesel's biggest advantage:   low-tech
    Diesel's biggest disadvantage:  low-tech
For me, I like not having all those expensive mystery-boxes underhood.

On the VW 5/6 cyl. Diesel issue, SAE paper 790206, "New 5- and
6-Cylinder VW Diesel Engines for Passenger Cars and Light Duty
Trucks," has Volkswagenwerk AG authors asying "The Diesel engine
line of the VW Group has now been expanded by a 5- 6-cylinder inline
engine...used in the Audi 100 passenger car (5-cylinder version)
and in the VW LT truck line (6-cylinder). In addition, *both*
engines will be used in a passenger car made by some other
European motor vehicle manufacturer." [1979]

I assume the last sentence refers to Volvo, although I had never
heard of a 5-cyl Diesel Volvo. I own a 6-cyl Diesel Volvo (1984)
and have never seen any Volvo references to the 5-cyl., but the
engineer's last sentence in preceding paragraph suggests that
the 5-cyl. may exist, at least in very small numbers.

I'm still looking for the 85/86 2-door Diesel Golf mit sunroof. l
Let me know if you happen to notice one for sale. Thanks.

Ron Weiers       Indiana Univ. of Pa.   netmail  weiers@grove.iup.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)
Subject: Re: what octane rating to use?
Date: 09 Oct 92 15:38:12 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Summary: Follow manufacturer's specs.


Higher octane gas isn't `better' or `higher quality'. It doesn't clean
engine innards any differently than low octane gas.

What it *does* do have a greater resistance to pre-ignition - knocking,
pinging, pinking, whatever you call it. Use what the engine was designed
for. On any VW I've ever seen, there is a sticker by the fuel filler -
my '72 Fastback says 91 octane. Since you can't buy such (leaded) gasoline
anymore in Canada, I run Helga on 92 octane unleaded and pray for the
exhaust valves. She knocked on 87 octane regular, and I didn't want to
derange the fuel injection by playing with the timing.

If you know exactly what you're doing, you can experiment. You'll want to
measure performance and mileage, listen for knocking, keep an eye on your
sparkplugs, and keep your timing light handy.

...laura
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: teek@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 14:33:42 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.191142.25499@morrow.stanford.edu> ari@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ari Ollikainen) writes:
<< lots of stuff deleted >>
>The turbo-charged diesel engine of the 760/740 series cars beginning in 

HEY.... the 740 is a four cylinder, isn't it?

>1984 was the *same* VW 6cylinder engine!
>


-- 
Teek (Prateek Dwivedi)                  teek@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca
Research Assistant                      pdwivedi@systems.watstar.uwaterloo.ca
Flight Control Systems Group            (519)885-1211 x5314     Voice
University of Waterloo, Canada          (519)746-3077           Fax
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tires for GTi
Date: 13 Oct 92 15:54:16 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

In article <98242@bu.edu>, nicos@cs.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos) writes:

|> 
|> My 87 GTi (8V) needs tires. The original size is 185 60 14.
|> 
|> I want to upgrade since the car will be used in drivers education events.
|> (There are other minor modifications being made to the car).
|> 
|> So, does anyone have experience with the following:
|> 195 55 14
|> 205 55 14
|> 
|> Basically I need someone to tell me that the 205/55 14 will
|> fit nicely and will not rub so I can go ahead and buy them!

205/55's will fit on your GTI fine on your stock 14" rims.
They came from the factory with that size for a few years.
But, finding the tires in that size could be a little hard since not
too many manufacturers make that size.

-Jeff

-- 
=========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision Corp, 14 Crosby Dr. MS 5-2, Bedford, MA 01730
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee                       (soon to be CV.Com ??)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tvtjet@eua.ericsson.se (Jorgen Eriksson)
Subject: Q: 4-sp gearbox experts, help !
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 09:52:21 GMT

Help !
This is current status: I have a 4-speed (-77 or later i think) with a limited
slip diffeerential, a very special gear ratio, and final ratio 1:5.08. (For
rally use, for those who wondered) The housing wasn't in a very good shape ie
bad threads, broken here and there, but still working fine. I decided to go for
a new house. After a couple of hours of work (including some grinding on the
new housing to fit first gear, yes it really fits now) it turns out that the
main shaft get stuck in some way. It starts of as an increased friction (
turning the mainshaft by hand) when there is 1/2 inch gap between the two house
parts and gets worse... It can be fully assembled but with a jammed mainshaft.
I can feel a play in the differential, and i think there is play in the
supporting shaft...After a VERY long evening i'm quite desperate, so thanks in
advance, any ideas appreciated.

		Jorgen (Jorgen.Eriksson@eua.ericsson.se)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill)
Subject: Re: Driving Cars to the ground
Organization: Telecom Australia Research Laboratories, Melbourne, Australia
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 07:09:54 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.134815.10537@linus.mitre.org> ptrei@bistromath.mitre.org
(Peter Trei) writes:

>...it just adds up. Look at my case.
>
>Each day I drive 40 miles to work. Going back, I drive 50 (I pick up
>my kid from daycare). That's 90 miles a day, about 3/4 highway (and
>yes, as fast as is prudent: I spend too much of my life in the car
>as it is).
>
>Which is 450 miles a week
>
>49 working weeks a year gives 22050 miles/year for commuting *alone*.
>
>Add in shopping, trips, and running to the quickimart for milk, and you
>get up over 25,000/year very easily. 
>
>1986 VW GTI 156,000 miles. Clutch, fuel pump, water pump, catalytic
>convertor, idle control unit, all replaced once. Brake disks twice,
>new tires every 18-24 months. Fuel tank and heater core replaced under
>recall.
>
>I put about $2500 in repairs into the car each year (I don't have time
>to do them myself). 

What, do you run it without oil!?  Ten cents per mile repair cost is pretty
high.

>If it gets much more, it'll exceed costs on a new
>car, and I'll junk it.

How long before a new car costs the same in repairs?

>Vehicles COULD be made to last 

They are.  The main variable affecting maintainence costs is how much the owner
knows about car maintainence - not whether he actually works on it.  Car
maintainence is costly when people neglect to attend to something until it
becomes much more costly to fix or when they allow themselves to be ripped off
by car repairers.

> - try asking a trucker how many miles
>he expects to get out of a tractor unit.

Chris O'Neill
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: barry@medicus.com (Barry Namm)
Subject: auto stuff for sale.......
Organization: Medicus Clinical Data Systems, Alameda, CA
Distribution: ba
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 20:47:38 GMT


Moving sale:

Mechanic's MAC roll-away tool chest.
	11 draw bottom and 3 draw top.
	MAC's largest size top quality
	1/3 the price at $400 for both.


Mechanics' floor jack
	2 1/2 ton.
	$40 or b/o.



A $1600 VW long block which was put together with the wrong size 
rod bearings.  This is a great deal for anyone rebuilding and
engine.  Rebuild heads, new pistons and cylinders, etc
$35


Mechanic's rolling thingie,  (you know you roll around on it
under your car.)	$8




Contact me at:
		(510) 533-1914 evenings
		(510) 814-8200 x116	days
		or barry@medicus.com


	
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Barry  Namm                                        Medicus Systems Corporation
barry@medicus.com                                        Clinical Data Systems
{uunet,sun!rtech,unisoft}!medicus!barry                    Alameda, California
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Driving Cars to the ground
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:50:13 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory

In article <8OCT199212343313@cc.utah.edu> mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory) writes:
>It seems to me that all of the problems on the cars that are talked about are 
>just driven to the ground.  100k miles and only 4 years old? WOW!  Where do you 
>guys drive?  Across the country every year?  Please for those of you who are 
>about to flame the hell out of me I AM NOT CRITICIZING! I wish that I had the 
>time and the bucks to do the kind of driving you guys do.  But it seems to me 
>that alot of these problems that you talk about arise not from general bad 
>design of the car but pure and simple wear and tear that comes with 100k+ miles 
>of driving the car.
>
I think you missed a decimal point.  My cars are barely broken in at 100k miles:

	'66 Datsun Roadster	150k miles
	'80 Vanagon		155k miles
	'84 Rabbit		170k miles

	- Dan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Subject: Redline number, 2nd try
Reply-To: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Organization: Field Robotics Center, CMU
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:28:48 GMT


Because of the overwhelming response last time (0), I'll try again:
Does anyone have the number for ordering Red Line's product's?  Even
the FAQ list has ??? next to the number.

Thanks.
--
Paul Keller                     paul.keller@frc.ri.cmu.edu
Field Robotics Center           Phone: (412) 268-6563
The Robotics Institute          Fax: (412) 682-1793
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 67 type III carbs
Date: 16 Oct 92 20:18:46 GMT
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California

>>>>> On 15 Oct 92 23:59:54 GMT, erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) said:

Dave> The throttle shafts on my 67 squareback's carburetors are worn
Dave> enough to make it impossible to tune (it is either too rich at
Dave> high rpm or too lean at idle), so I would like to either replace
Dave> the carburetors with new stock replacements (Gene Berg sells a
Dave> kit which consists of Brazilian Solexes which appear to be exact
Dave> copies of the original 32PDSITs including electric idle valve
Dave> and choke), get the throttle shafts rebushed, or replace the
Dave> carburetors with aftermarket units (e.g. Delorto or Weber).  If
Dave> any of you have done this before, I'd like to hear about it.

I replaced my dual 32mm single throat carb setup (stock) with dual
40mm dual throat Weber DCNFs.  The reason I did this was because I
replaced my 1600cc stocker with a 2110cc long stroker and needed the
extra breathing capacity they provided.  They have proved to be quite
a good match with the engine.  

I have a few complaints, but with knowledge of what is going on, I can
live with it.  

In going from 2 barrels to 4 barrels (total) you end up
with each cylinder being serviced by one barrel of one carb and when
you go to use a synchrometer, the little indicator float bobs up and
down an awful lot, so you have to mentally create an average when
synchronizing the carbs.

These carbs seem to be very prone to and sensitive to vacuum leaks
around the base gasket.  Every once in a while, I get backfiring and I
know it is time to replace the carb base gaskets.  Like the time a new
mechanic at the shop could not figure out how to remove the spark
plugs without lifting off the carbs.  Right away, it began backfiring.

Other than that, my gas mileage is at about 17 mpg which seems about
right for the engine I have in it.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain)
Subject: Help! 88 Jetta OVERHEATING!!!
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 18:36:21 GMT

I just bought this 88 Jetta (44,000 miles, great shape).  The temperature gague seems to be going 
to maximum pretty soon and (ofcourse) then the red light in it flashes and it starts to beep. I had it
looked at by a non-VW dude who noted that the fan does not go on until after the engine is off (but 
I believe that is supposed to happen in most vehicles, right?).
Could it be that the (electronic) sensor that switches the fan on at a certain temperature is 
broken?  Either way, has anyone else had this problem?  Is it easily fixed or will I have to go
to a VW dealer ($$)?  Is it the thermostat?

As you can tell I'm el auto ignoramus!  

Oh and one more question: what would you pay for a 1988 Jetta, 44,000 miles, no accidents +
no rust, not dents, auto, air, radio, and runs great (except for the overheating)?  I am curious
as to whether I got a good deal.

Thanks in advance
Sheheryar
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hilaryc@athena.mit.edu (Hilary A Coller)
Subject: advice requested -- racing rabbit engine
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 15:03:35 GMT

hi!

THE CAR
i have a '78 volkswagen rabbit.  it is a gasoline powered, 
fuel injected engine; manual transmission.

THE PROBLEM
the engine races (really!  goes upto 3000-3500 rpm) 
when warm *and* when there is no load on it.  i.e., when 
it is in gear and supplying power to the wheels, 
everything is under control -- when i take my foot off the 
gas pedal, the revs *do* drop, and the car slows down.  
but he moment i press the clutch and disengage, the revs 
go up again.  happens repeatedly.

same thing happens when i come back from a test drive,
shut the engine off and restart the warm engine.  idles at 
about 3000 rpm.

DIAGNOSTICS
figuring that the decel valve must be the culprit, i 
checked it, but it seems fine.  i haven't checked the cold 
start valve (or fifth injector) yet, having decided to seek 
advice for you folks before i spend any more time on it.  i 
did do a visual check of the vaccum lines though, and 
they seem ok.  (not great, but ok).

help!  any ideas?
From: jimk@bvc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Just bought a Scirocco....
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:41:42 CDT
Organization: Buena Vista College, Storm Lake, IA

In article <Bw0wqy.Eu4@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, taw57465@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Nitzer ) writes:
>      Here's another story which proves the reliability
>      of VW engines:   I just bought an '87 Scirocco 
>      with 202,000 miles!!  Wasn't expecting the engine
>      to be in that great of shape.  A compression test was performed
>      and showed that everything was sealing nicely inside.  The car
>      burns no oil and has plenty of power.  The guy that had I bought
>      it from did regular oil changes (every 3k) and regular
>      maintenance.  I was planning on dropping in a new engine...
>      but I guess I'll just keep driving it the way it is!
> 
> 			    ---Amazed--

I owned two Sciroccos, a yellow '75 automatic purchased new and a blue '78 
4-speed purchased w/ 29,000 miles.  I ran the '75 to 129,000 miles with no 
major problem and the 78 to 154,000.  The short block in the '78 leaked oil 
badly and I replaced it w/ a new one at one point.  Now I'd like to find a 
good used early model, but the few I've seen in Iowa are rusty. 

Jim Kennedy, Buena Vista College>
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 67 type III carbs
Date: 15 Oct 92 23:59:54 GMT
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

The throttle shafts on my 67 squareback's carburetors are worn enough
to make it impossible to tune (it is either too rich at high rpm or too
lean at idle), so I would like to either replace the carburetors with
new stock replacements (Gene Berg sells a kit which consists of Brazilian 
Solexes which appear to be exact copies of the original 32PDSITs including
electric idle valve and choke), get the throttle shafts rebushed, or replace
the carburetors with aftermarket units (e.g. Delorto or Weber).  If 
any of you have done this before, I'd like to hear about it.

-Dave Erickson
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Turbo on rabbit.
Date: 8 Oct 92 14:28:40 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

Is is possible to put a turbo from a diesel on a standard rabbit engine?  If
so, what would one have to modify to get it to work correctly?
 
Thanks...
 
Kevin

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kevin Jones                                   KPJONE01@ULKYVX.CT.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Lab Supervisor                                KPJONE01@ULKYVX.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Computing and Telecommunications              PHONE:  502-588-6303
University of Louisville, KY                  FAX:    502-588-0150

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Organization: Sophomore, MCS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 16:11:54 -0400 
From: Eric Meyhofer <em3j+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: VR6
	<1992Oct9.120549.1673@tac.fi>


I will give $3500 for every VR6 anyone can provide.  They must include
the wiring harness.