HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hemenway@ll.mit.edu
Subject: Re: 195-60 HR-14s on an '84 GTI???
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 12:52:30 GMT

Earlier I wrote:
>In article <1992Sep14.162150.9291@ll.mit.edu> hemenway@ll.mit.edu writes:
>>I have an '84 GTI with tires on their way out.
>>I have stock (14") rims and would like to bump
>>the tires to 195-60s (from 185-60s).  
>>
>>Have you seen it done? 
>>How is the wheelwell clearance?  
>>If OK, are snow cables a no-no?
>>If not OK, how are 195-55s?

You replied:

>I have 195-60's on my 84.  

Is it a GTI?  If not then the bump to 195-60s would make
a huge difference indeed.

>The car feels much more firmly planted
>to the pavement, and I believe that the improved grip makes up
>for the tradeoffs of slight speedo error, and theoretically slower
>accelleration (not noticeable). The steering effort is higher and
>can be a bitch in tight parking drama's, but it makes up for it
>on the freeway where the increased effort is welcome.

Have you noticed any increase in mileage? Shaw's and Mayzurk's
good comments aside, one might expect a 5% decrease in rpms
to maintain a given speed by using a larger 195-60 tire.
One might argue that most resistance at speed comes from
aerodynamic effects which must be overcome regardless.

>There is plenty of clearance in the wheelwells, and living in the
>Bay Area I rarely have need for chains.  

Chains will not fit even the standard tires with severe risk
to the wheelwells.  I have used cables in the Sierras for 5
years without problems on 185-60/14s

>Volney Spalding			  "My HOVERCRAFT is FULL of EELS"
>vol@northbeach.Corp.Sun.COM	   

-Roe.  <hemenway@ll.mit.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rmarshal@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Rick Marshall)
Subject: diesel hard start
Summary: > 5 seconds and getting worse
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:18:14 GMT


Until a couple months ago, my Jetta diesel started within 1 second of
turning the ignition key.  Since that time it has taken progressively
longer to get it to start, regardless of whether the engine is hot or
cold, although about half the time it may still start quickly.

Additional symptoms that may be significant: 

  1) My mileage, which over 10 years has run 54-56 MPG in the summer, has
     been hovering under 50 this year.  The engine has 140K miles on it.

  2) When idling at a stoplight facing uphill, the engine has begun
     to show signs similar to fuel starvation.

  3) Fuel filter was replaced 6 months (6K miles) ago.

  4) I am uncertain of oil pressure.

Although this has not caused problems yet, it's clearly not right.
And when cold weather hits, it needs to start quick or I'm out of
battery power!

Any ideas?

Thanks.

====
Rick

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Glenn Stauffer <stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu>
Subject: Re: FOX89 Radio Problems
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6D75141C101433A@mac8.beardsley.swarthmore.edu>
X-Xxdate: Sat, 12 Sep 92 12:48:17 GMT
Organization: Swarthmore College Computing Center
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 11:48:47 GMT

In article <1992Sep12.055229.8620@r-node.gts.org> Ivan Vojvodic,
ivan@r-node.gts.org writes:
>Recently I've noticed a strange behaviour of my 89 FOX radio-cassete
>player.  Namely, radio section sometimes loses its output [i.e.
>frequency is displayed, but nothing is being heard], and it goes
>like that in an on-off mode [i.e. you hear it, than you don't].
>Casette player is working, so, I assume, it is not a power
>[electrical] problem.
>
>Anyone with a similar experience?  Can I do anything to prevent
>this?  If this is a known failure, maybe you can share with me
>and other netters whether it is worth to repair it, or is it
>better to buy a new one...
>

I have an '87 Fox with almost exactly the same problem.  My radio lost FM 
reception about 2 years ago.  It started gradually with the FM sound 
dropping out after the radio was on for a while.  In the past year, FM 
reception is gone altogether - though I do see stations in the display
(only 
presets work - scan freezes on the displayed station).  I still get AM 
and the tape player works.

One thing I noticed when attempting to remove my radio is a sticker on 
the bottom that says "Refurbished" and has some VW part numbers on it.  I 
haven't pursued the issue of why I had a refurbished radio on a new car.  
Either that's the way it was shipped or a scum dealer swapped it.  Look 
at yours - I'd be very interested if you also had a refurbished radio.

STAUFFER
From: dali@milton.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: My Squareback isn't holding a charge!
Date: 7 Sep 92 18:48:24 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Sep6.143231.9291@bsu-ucs.uucp> 01ksdavis@bsu-ucs.uucp writes:
>
>	Help!  My Type 3 Squareback won't hold a charge!
>
>
>	So far, this I have done:
>
>
>		put in a new generator.
>
>		put in spark plug cables.
>
>		and checked the fan belt.
>
>		Everything seems to be in order.  The official service manual
>suggests I check terminal 50 of the solenoid and also check the regulator.
>
>
>	Anybody else have any bright ideas?  It would be so nice if I can drive
>anywhere I want to again without worrying about jumper cables, or whoever is
>going to give me my next jump.
>
>
>	Thanks in advance.
>
>
>		Kyle

Most likely I would say that your battery is old, or there is a short
somewhere in the wiring draining your battery while the car sits.  Also,
your voltage regulator could be the problem, not shutting off the
battery when your generator should be running the car while driving.
I bought a new battery and heard a clicking noise coming from the
back seat and it turned out that the voltage regulator was dying.  It
is a royal pain in the butt to remove, the screws were in tight, but
the part only costs $28.
 
Good luck, let us know what it was.
 
David
'70 Squareback

P.S.  Hope you don't have fuel injection.  If so you would fry your 
black box upon jumpstarting your Type III...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: Re: Battery/Charging System Problems?
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-11988]: invader.navo.navy.mil
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 13:23:53 GMT

In article <5535@dove.nist.gov>, keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
|> 
|> This morning when i went out to start my car it wouldn't start.  I got in
|> and the dome light was brown, and the radio would not come on.  Then at lunch
|> time (the same day) i went out to the car and the same conditions existed 
|> except the interior light was a little brighter.  Each time (this morning and
|> at lunch time) i was able to start the car immediately after connecting the 
|> jumper cables to another car battery.  This problem happened once about a month
|> ago with the same results, although until today the problem hadn't reoccured.
|> 
|> Any ideas what might be happening?
|> 
|> BTW, i have checked all the accessories, (i.e., lights etc.) to make sure
|> that nothing was left in the on position.

Check the interior trunk light to make sure it is going off.  You have
a GLI, so you should certainly have the trunk light.  The switch on
mine apparently came out of adjustment and the light was remaining on,
draining my battery every night.  I sheepishly admit that it took me
more than a couple of days to figure it out.  Oh, and when you jump
in the trunk and have your friend close it on you, make sure that the
keys aren't in your pocket.  But that's another story....... ;-)

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Snow tires for Corrado
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 15 Sep 92 08:34:02 PDT
Distribution: na
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <Sep14.191259.22534@engr.washington.edu> eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>
>I am soliciting recommendations for studdable snow tires for the
>Corrado.  Over here in the northwest, the winters tend to be mild, so
>we have a lot of ice to deal with.  The ultra-low profile dimensions
>of Corrado tires is proving to be difficult.  Looking at Tire Rack
>listings, there's nothing that will fit the Corrado that can be
>studded.  Has anybody found anything?  Also info on sources of steel
>wheels would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>eliot

Studded tires are a bit out of style, and illegal in many
states. 
Try looking at Hakaapelitas (sp? Finish), I think they
are made for studs.
I think 14" rims will fit. WolfSport may cary the 14" steel rims.
-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
From: hemenway@ll.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 195-60 HR-14s on an '84 GTI???
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:21:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory

I have an '84 GTI with tires on their way out.
I have stock (14") rims and would like to bump
the tires to 195-60s (from 185-60s).  

Have you seen it done? 
How is the wheelwell clearance?  
If OK, are snow cables a no-no?
If not OK, how are 195-55s?

Thanks for your response.

-Roe.  <hemenway@ll.mit.edu>
From: cl128219@ulkyvx.louisville.edu (Nik Shaw)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Question on 914 frame repair
Date: 8 Sep 92 04:11:14 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Sep1.162108.19603@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov>, bdimond@osprey.lerc.nasa.gov (Bob Dimond) writes:
> 	1.  Floors (can repair myself)

  I used to have a '71 914, and the floor under the seats was giving way.  I
saw some ads for new flooring in Tweeks right before I sold it.  Sounds like a
cut and dry job.  Good luck!
 
> 	2.  The framing for the passangers side control arm spindle (below
> 	    the battery tray) needs repair and anyone familiar with this will
> 	    know there is not alot of metal to weld to.  What I want to know is 
> 	    this:
> 
> 		a.  Anyone else have this problem on a 914?
 
  Fortunatly, no.  Mine was in very good shape as it had been sitting for a
long time.  But there was sand in the engine from where the body was
sand-blasted.  Ouch!

> 		d.  Would welding a bar between the bottom of the two rear
> 		    Struts provide enough structural support? (Yes, I know it
> 		    would negate the independent rear supension).

  This does not sound like a smart thing to do.  The best way, I would think,
is to locate a junk and cut out the part you need.  Be very carful, that
suspension stuff is VERY sensitive.  

> Any help I can get will receive my deepest gratitude, and remember:
> "Yes, of course its for sale".

  DON'T SELL!!!  You will regret it!  I do...(snif)...my babys gone... :(
  But, I do have a new toy to play with: '83 GTI 
					--> Runs Better : Handles Worse <--
-- 
 ______________________________________________________________________________
| Only //    | Let BASIC live!! | \ \ \    |                                   |
|     //     `-----[ NOT! ]-----'  o o     |  Nik Shaw --> CL128219@ULKYVM     |
| \\ //                             U      |    '71 914 ---> '83 GTI           |
|  \X/ AMIGA, makes it possible!  \___/ VW |-----------------------------------'
`------------------------------------------'                                    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Glenn Stauffer <stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu>
Subject: Re: opinions on a '89 Fox GL
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A6D4AB2F7201433A@mac8.beardsley.swarthmore.edu>
X-Xxdate: Thu, 10 Sep 92 12:35:11 GMT
Organization: Swarthmore College Computing Center
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 11:35:44 GMT

In article <1323@bridge2.NSD.3Com.COM> Michael Throm, mtt@ESD.3Com.COM
writes:
> The only question I have is whether I will have to replace the timing
belt
> soon or is this just a problem with other VW's?
>

I replaced mine at 60k partly as a precaution and partly on the advice of 
a mechanic friend.  It's a toothed rubber belt so 60k is about the norm.  
One thing I've heard is that this engine will survive if the belt breaks.

As for the Fox in general:

I have a very early '87 that now has 130k on it.  To date, service hasn't 
been a huge problem - wear and tear stuff:

- new water pump
- new alternator
- new exhaust from the converter back
- new rear shocks (the front ones could stand replacement)
- the outer CV boots ripped on both sides (a full axle from a 3rd party 
was cheaper than the joint from VW: $135 vs $175)

Alot of the suspension repair items can be attributed to frequent trips
in the 
backcountry.

All in all, it is a serviceable vehicle - my intent is to keep it until I 
hit 300k or 10 years or a very major repair item.

The negative experiences that I've had are:
- parts prices can be steep
- the paint (Red) went to hell in a hurry despite frequent waxes
- the radio died after 3 years (now it is AM only - oh Joy!)
- it is a bit slow
- a real non-descript vehicle

Would I buy another?  Hmmmm...  Nah, I'm buying an old LandRover next - 
but that's just me.  If I had an urge to buy a new car, a Fox wouldn't be 
bad - too bad they dumped the wagon.

STAUFFER
From: msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Good Home needs Cat
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:00:49 GMT
Reply-To: Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu>
Organization: University of Rochester Department of Electrical Engineering

I need a new catastrophic converter for my '87 GTI 16V; the original one
broke apart about five or ten miles ago, judging from the sudden change in
exhaust note, the extreme lack of power at the top end, and the rattling
noise that seems to be coming from inside the converter housing.

I believe in '87 the emissions control warranty was only 50,000 miles -- I
think it's 100,000 miles now, which is a bummer since the car has 99,876
right now.

Anyway, anyone know what the laws are regarding used cats?  I'm in New York
State; I assume they vary by state.  Wolf Sport says they can sell me a used
one, but they don't have any in stock; a new one from the aftermarket is
$365; the dealer will get me a VW version for $450.

What should I do?  I'd like to spend as little as possible, and most likely
I won't be keeping the car for another 100K miles, so I'd be willing to take
a used one if it's legal.  Anyone know of good sources for cheap, or used,
cats?  Is there any good reason not to get an aftermarket cat?  Can I feel
secure that it will pass inspection?

Thanks for any suggestions...
-- 
Mark Sirota - Department of Electrical Engineering Systems Staff
University of Rochester, Rochester NY
 Internet: msirota@ee.rochester.edu
 UUCP:     rutgers!rochester!ur-valhalla!msirota
From: gerrit@laosinh.stgt.sub.org (Gerrit Heitsch)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Broken Reverse Light Switch
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 12:34:58 MET
Distribution: world
Organization: Lao-Sinh project (private UUCP site)

In article <hersh.715965893@xenon.lcs.mit.edu>, Jay Hersh writes:

> A while back folks helped me locate my reverse light switch, which
> did not seem to be working properly. I removed it, operated it
> manually to determine if the switch was functioning, cleaned it and
> re-installed it, at which point it worked fine.
I had the same problem a year ago. The switch refused to work if
installed, but worked fine if removed an tested.
Another way to get the installed switch working was to touch it.
I think the (internal) contacts of the switch have been worn out.

> Does anyone know enough about this part to confirm this?? I don't want
> to go off and buy and install a part Iwon't be able to return only to
> find Iwas barking up a wrong tree...
If the reverse lights do not work, try to hit the switch lightly, if
they work then, you have the same problem I had.
I bought a new switch and after installing it all works fine.

> Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Prost!

Gerrit

-- 
         Gerrit Heitsch  Moenchweg 16  7038 Holzgerlingen  Germany
  Logical adresses: UUCP: gerrit@laosinh.stgt.sub.org FIDO: (2:247/706.9)
                 If you are from outer space, please use:
  universe!local-cluster!milkyway!solarsystem!terra!europe!laosinh!gerrit
From: zirk@celece.ucsd.edu (Karin Zirk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 1971 VW distributor
Date: 15 Sep 92 21:34:54 GMT

I have a 1971 VW Van with a bug engine
1600 bored to 1776  (new engine - hasn't
even been started yet).  I currently
have a combination distributor (mechanical/vacuum).

Everyone keeps telling me
to get a straight mechanical 09 distributor.

I'm looking for opinions. Yes/No and why or why
not.  Also, will I still be able to get
my car smogged with the 09?

Thanks in advance.

Karin

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: randy@rdr.com (Randy Tidd)
Subject: Seeking Neuspeed chip
Reply-To: randy@rdr.com (Randy Tidd)
Organization: RDR, Inc.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 02:00:05 GMT


I'm looking for an upgrade chip for my 1992 VW GTI 16v.  I called about a  
bazillion places and finally got the local number for Autotech, who sells  
upgrade chips for $275.00.  I heard from a multitude of sources that  
Neuspeed "P-Chips" are superior, but I can't find a Neuspeed number  
anywhere, and nobody I called has heard of them nor knows the number.  Can  
someone help me out?

Thanks


Randy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: daniel@nstn.ns.ca (Daniel MacKay)
Subject: Re: Two Weird VWs---Help!
Organization: NSTN Network Operations Centre, Nova Scotia, Canada
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 09:37:09 GMT

>In article <92253.141959IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET>, <IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET>Jo Namio (The Hippie) writes:
> are fine. Have had brakes bled and that didn't help. One mechanic
> says it's master cylinder replacement time. Another tells me he can
> adjust them and I'll be fine, for $15.00. (Very tempting to take the
> $15 job and run, but very safe?)

The latter is very likely the problem.  When were the brakes last adjusted?
It probably has nothing to do with bleeding; *the* symptom, the only one,
for which bleeding is required is spongy brakes.  Long pedal travel with
firm brakes at the bottom of the pedal travel indicates out-of-adjustment.

> Second Beetle problem, when starting from a stop, in first gear only, unless
> clutch pedal is released very carefully, there is a shudder. Most of the time,

Could be a number of things; in my last two aircooleds, this was the most
obvious symptom that the front (FRONT is FRONT) main engine bearing was on
its way out.

-dan
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: Re: OXYS light on < 12000 miles
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 19:14:00 GMT

In article <lapm7aINN4q4@tokio.cs.utexas.edu>, bhala@cs.utexas.edu (Bhalchandra Ghatate) writes...
> 
>	The Oxygen sensor light in my GTI (86) has come on
>even though I replaced it at the 90,000 miles service and now
>the odometer is at only 101500 miles.
> 
>	Can there be any other reason for it to turn on.  If
>so what do I need to do.  Hope it's not too expensive ... :-).


The OXS light comes on automatically every 30k, regardless of whether
or not the oxygen sensor has been changed -- it's designed to serve as
a reminder.  At your last service they replaced the sensor but forgot to
reset the switch.   It's not too difficult -- inside the engine compartment,
on the left (drivers) side of the car near the firewall, you will find a 
small black box with two speedometer cables connected to it and a small button
marked OXS.  Find something long enough to reach the box, such as a long, thin
screwdriver, and push the button until you hear it click.  Start the car and
make sure the light goes out.  If it does, you're good for another 30k.
If you had your car serviced at a reputable shop (such as a dealer), then you
could probably take it back and tell them that they forgot to reset the
thing.  It might be a waste of your time and trouble, however, and it's 
certainly not too difficult to do it yourself.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: 195-60 HR-14s on an '84 GTI???
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 22:45:51 GMT

In article <1992Sep15.125230.24955@ll.mit.edu>, hemenway@ll.mit.edu writes:
|> >I have 195-60's on my 84.  
|> 
|> Is it a GTI?  If not then the bump to 195-60s would make
|> a huge difference indeed.

There is not much difference between the Rabbit and GTi suspension geometry.
Granted the GTi has shorter/stiffer springs, but these do not really affect
the clearance that much.  The real difference is the wider rims (6" versus
5.5") which add 1/4 to both sides of the wheel centerline.

|> Have you noticed any increase in mileage? Shaw's and Mayzurk's
|> good comments aside, one might expect a 5% decrease in rpms
|> to maintain a given speed by using a larger 195-60 tire.
|> One might argue that most resistance at speed comes from
|> aerodynamic effects which must be overcome regardless.

The net effect of going from 185-60 to 195-60 will only cause a 2% drop
in RPM to maintain the same true speed.  But your speedo will read 2%
slow, so this will be hard to notice.  You will get an apparent loss
of mileage of about 2%, since your odo will also being reading short.
In the real world the mileage will be effectively unchanged.

|> >There is plenty of clearance in the wheelwells, and living in......

Clearance to wheelwells is not the problem!  The real problem is clearance
to the strut housing and spring perch in the front or to the springs themselves
in the rear.  If you peer under the car and look at the space between the widest
part of your tires and the strut housing, you will see what I mean.  The problem
can be even worse if you adjust your camber for more negative settings (I run
a -2 degrees on the front).  

|> Chains will not fit even the standard tires with severe risk
|> to the wheelwells.  I have used cables in the Sierras for 5
|> years without problems on 185-60/14s

Simplest way to check is to put your cables on and measure the clearance to the
strut housing and spring perch on the front.  (I doubt you put them on the
rears ??)  If you have at least 0.5 inch of clearance with the cables stretched
out, you might be OK.  195-60's will add about 0.2 inch inside, outside, and
the radius over your 185-60's.  

Somehow I don't think you got the point of my earlier message:  don't look
solely at tire body size look at tread width and compound for more traction.
You may find a better tire in the 185-60's than you have now. 

What brand/model of tire have you been running on?   And are you using stock
rims?

Mark  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw