From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Distributor Problem?  Help wanted!
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 12:54:07 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Oct4.091021.1788@ucbeh.san.uc.edu> yuanj@ucbeh.san.uc.edu writes:
>I adjusted the timing with the vacuum hoses (2 of them) disconnected from the
>distributor, according to the Hayes Manual.  It is at 8 degrees before top dead
>point (BTDP).
>
>I then reconnect the vacuum hoses, and check where the timing is.  It it about
>23 degrees BTDP.  I think it is doing something wrong.  When I go uphill after
>a cold start, the car not only pins(sp?), but also stall occasionally.  I
>believe it is the wrong timing that causes trouble.

 This amount of vacuum advance at idle sounds normal to me. However you 
may have other conditions which make this amount of vacuum advance more
than the engine can tolerate when cold. If you absolutely -cannot- make
the engine ping when warm, you are not too lean, and should try working
with the cold-mixture-specific components first - choke profile and fast
idle settings.

 The following are how I set the choke and fast idle. It wouldn't hurt to
see what your book says though.


                         Setting the Choke

(1) Run the engine until fully warmed up.
(2) Shut down, prop the throttle open.
(3) Loosen the choke housing. 
(4) Rotate the housing back and forth, observing the choke butterfly.
    It should move smoothly without jerking or sticking. If not, use
    some graphite lube (Lock-Ease, e.g.). Using carb cleaner may be a
    temporary fix but it is important to get some lubrication into the
    shaft. Otherwise the cleaner may transport the easy stuff out and
    leave the heavier deposits to stick it worse.
(5) Note the maximum open position of the butterfly. Move the housing 
    to where the choke is partially closed, and back off to where the
    choke has just opened fully.
(6) Retighten choke housing.

    This will give you the maximum allowable richness and still have 
    the choke fully open at normal operating temperature. You can 
    experiment with setting the choke to reach full-open earlier,
    stopping when stalling, stumbling or pinging become noticeable.
    Opening sooner will waste less gas. Starting when the engine is
    semi-warm may be better with less than full richness, or not.

                          Setting the Fast Idle 

(1) You should have set the choke up already.
(2) Look for a fast idle specification on the emission control :P 
    sticker or in the manual. Typical is 200-500 above base idle, and
    will do for a guess if no number is found. Automatics can't take too 
    much extra; use the minimum you can get away with.
(3) Find the fast idle cam and lever. It's typically on the opposite end 
    of the throttle shaft from the pedal linkage/cable and attached to
    the choke mechanism by a rod.
(4) Open the throttle a bit and move the choke butterfly to position the 
    fast idle cam to where the fast idle screw (on the lever) is going
    to rest on the first step above the base level. Release the throttle
    and let the lever screw rest on that step.
(5) Fire it up and adjust the fast idle screw to obtain the desired 
    fast idle speed. Blip the throttle. The choke should open back up
    and the engine should return to normal idle. The fast idle screw
    should not quite touch the fast idle cam's base circle. If it does,
    the main idle screw should be adjusted to hold the idle speed and
    the fast idle readjusted.
(6) The fast idle profile relative to choke position is typically 
    adjusted by bending the connecting rod. This sort of adjustment is
    rarely necessary, but if you need a different combination of speed 
    and enrichment, it can be had.

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