HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: gti headlight
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:40:44 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University

In article <1992Nov10.023942.3738@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>	Since we are on the subject of headlights, what kinds of upgrades are

>Christos.

I guess since I'm ranting about aux lighting, I might as well chip in.

Options:

1. replacement of normal lights
2. separate fog lamps
3. separate driving lamps

1. Before 198X headlamps were pretty cheesy and a GOOD replacement
headlamp could make a great difference.  The main difference is not in
wattage since they are restricted by wiring to 55/65w hi/lo.
Primarily the difference was in using a whiter light bulb (quartz
glass for heat, iodine gas to prevent blackening).  Seondarily and
very important with the greater light is careful optic design.
Instead of just a random scattering of light as was used in the
pre-80s, the better lamps had sharply controlled beams that put light
down on the road from 0 to 200ft but never above waist height.  My
favorite pattern was the Cibie "Z" beam that had a pattern like:

                    __________________
	           /
         _________/

and would light the right side very nicely.

I believe that if replacement lights are available for your car, they
would make an improvement IF YOU GET GOOD LAMPS.  Cheap lamps do not
do a good job of controlling the light.  I give recommendations for
Marchal, Cibie, Hella.  Cibie is my personal favorite.  I don't like
Wagner.  Replacements are generally available for 7" hi/lo round, 7"
(?) hi/lo rectangular, 5 1/4 hi and lo separate (4 lamp system).

Installation is with a screwdriver.  No wiring mods needed and unless
you go with super wattage bulbs, no relay is needed.  Aim carefully.
If you drive past the cement NJ barriers, you'll notice that perfectly
aimed lights will show low beams parallel to their tops.

2. Fog lamps provide a diffuse light down LOW to light the road.  If
you mount them right, they get broken by stones.  If you mount them so
they don't get broken they're too high.  (I'm being cynical).  They
come in amber (yellow) but that might get you into trouble in the
states.

Many people like to use them as cornering lamps since they throw to
the sides quite well.  Many people also just like to have them on
cause they're cool.

Installation requires switches and relays and probably holes into the
bumper or else special brackets.

3. Driving lights throw a bright beam deep into outerspace.  Thank god
they can be turned off every once in a while.  If you want to drive
fast at night then these are a must.  Distances of 1/2mi or better are
possible.  Useful for spotting reflective lettering on the back of
most police cars.  Put lots of wattage into these guys and mount them
as high as possible.  In my Lotus, I wanted to put them on top of my
roof, but it would look like Mickey Mouse.  Plus they would have
melted the roof.

Installation is similar to fog lamps.

/andy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: paquetis@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Paquette Isabelle)
Subject: argument on when to change gears on VR6...
Organization: Universite de Montreal
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 23:51:49 GMT

Hi, all...

I'm having this ongoing "argument" with a friend of mine...who has a
2-month old Pearl Burgundy Corrado VR6...as if this weren't enough,
although the initial 1.5k are done, she still hesitates to bring
RPM's above 3500, and even 3000...this motor (I would thionk)
should just THRIVE on added rpm's? (within reas. limits of course...)

Which brings me to my question, when should gears be changed, or is it
just a questio of taste? I thought excessively low rpm's (below 3000)
tended to soil (soot up?) the motor.

Anybody has opinions on this?

Isabelle
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Will I have problems with my 6-volt in the cold?
Date: 9 Nov 92 14:44:05 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <BxGBy5.4qJ@ucunix.san.uc.edu>, dillongm@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Johnny Monocrome) writes:
> In article <1992Nov9.052212.647@unvax.union.edu> lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange) writes:
>>Does any one know what kind of problems I can expect with a six-volt system during this coming winter.  I assume that I'll have some difficulty starting, does anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with that?  The car must be parked outside, unfortunately, so it will be nearly constantly freezing, sometimes sub-zero.  Would a reflective space-blanket in the engine compartment while parked help?  Thanks in advance.  Just e-mail, unless you think it would be of use to the whole group.  -Josh
>>
>>-- 
>>Josh LaGrange                  *                    
>>Email: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu*                                               Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
>>My views may not represent the *
>>views of the Union College     * 
> 
> Do please post it for I am wondering the same thing myself.
> 
> Thanks
> Guy Dillon  
> dillongm@ucunix.san.uc.edu
> 

The general method is to remove the battery and put a trickle charger on it to
keep it fully charged.  You may have trouble finding a charger like that one
for a six-volt battery.  Barring that idea, you may just want to go outside
every couple of days and start it and let it run for a minute to charge back
up.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: brake interchange
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:29:13 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.170507.17067@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:

>how much load is on the wheels thus adjusting braking. My assumption (which
>may be false) is that disks will provide more braking for the same pressure
>than drums, thus possibly leading into lockup.

Disks require MORE _force_ than drums.  However, since force = piston
area X pressure, the difference might already have been designed into
the piston sizes.




Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)
Subject: Re: Final about Re: Importing
Date: 09 Nov 92 16:46:36 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Summary: incr(cost); decr(value);


[much previous stuff deleted]

There was an interesting report in the paper recently stating that the
average purchase price of a new car as a percentage of the average
family's annual income has doubled in the past 10 years. The article
(it was either in the L.A. Times or the S.J. Mercury News) attributed
the increase to an increase in the number of standard gadgets on new
cars, as well as higher costs for safety gadgets (e.g. air bags).

Which all fits in very well with the current discussion - does all the
new high-tech 4 cam computer-controlled technology make vehicles that
get from Point A to Point B any better? Do all the safety features accomplish
anything that a reasonably skilled reasonably responsible driver in a
well-maintained vehicle couldn't do on his/her own?

I happen to enjoy the primal driving experience of older air-cooled VWs.
They get me from point A to point B economically, and for a fraction
of the cost of a new car. I can't ask for much more.

...laura
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (It's not what you got, it's what you give)
Subject: Re: Lead Additive
Summary: Valves  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 6 Nov 92 03:46:58 GMT

In article <5NOV199209210261@cc.utah.edu>, mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory)                writes...
>   Now that the government has taken out the lead of the gas in all of the 
>nation's gas It leaves us early ('67 bug) air-cooled VW's out in the cold.  I 
>was wondering about the lead substitute that is out on the market right now.

RedLine (I think that is the name) is the best.

>How good is it for my engine?  If I don't put it in, what am I doing to my 
>engine?  What was the purpose for the lead anyways?

Although I have heard some spokesmen say that your car doesn't need it,
I've talked to some very experienced back-yard mechanics who say that 
you need it for the valves. If you dont' use it for a long enough time
(several thousand miles) your valves will burn up. I tend to believe
people that work on cars rather then spokesmen myself (I own a '70 bug)
IMHO. Besides, it doesn't cost that much anyway. A half-pint with every
fill-up will do it. 
> 
>Michael Beck
>Michael.Beck@m.cc.utah.edu  
> 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WE'RE ONLY HERE BECAUSE WE'RE NOT ALL HERE)
Subject: Re: Smogging a Bug
Summary: First born 
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 13 Nov 92 04:48:14 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.193727.1555@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com                                   writes...
> 
>>Title says it all.   Anybody have any information of
>>smogging a Bug?    Say a 1966.
> 
>I reckon it depends on the state/county the car is registered in.  If the
>bug were in AZ, all you need to smog it is to show the title.  Older cars
>are exempt :)

I have a 71' bug and am in California. I needed to get a smog check, but
passed without even getting a tune-up :^)
> 
>If the bug is in California, I think you have to post a $20,000 smog 
>bond, agree to deliver over your first child to the state, apply an 
>air pump and catalytic converter, convert to hydrogen, and a nuetrino
>fired bi-phasic mono-stabilator bypass valve... or something like that.
> 
Or something like that.
> 
>shade@chdasic.sps.mot.com                        \/
>602-821-4096                                    \/\/...its not a car

						A car would run properly.
Garrett@Ingres.com
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Date: 11 Nov 1992 19:45:27 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

In <9363TB3w164w@cellar.org>
   blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:

> . . . how did you get H4's to fit

The car in question is an '83 Rabbit GTI, it is rallyed off-road.
I remove the extra lights if/when I need to use it as a backup car.

For on-road stuff, 50/100w H4s are just fine.

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com            my opinions, mine mine mine
From: UD180274@NDSUVM1.BITNET (Roger A. Huggins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Castrol Syntec & Mobil 1 Question
Date: 3 Nov 92 21:43:43 GMT
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computer Network

I am trying to decide between Mobil-1 (5W30) and the new Castrol
Syntec (5W50) for the winter in my '79 Rabbit (176k miles, original
engine.)  I need the low viscosity so the car will start when it's
-40 degrees, but I'm concerned with the high temp viscosity.  I
have used Mobil-1 in the past with no complaints, but have had
absolutely no experience with the new Castrol.

Has anyone had any experience with the Castrol Syntec?  All
comments and suggestions greatfully received!  Thank you!

Roger
From: tbs2x@Virginia.EDU ("Todd Brendan Schaffranek")
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Random Engine Cut Out
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:28:59 GMT
Organization: University of Virginia

I had the same problem in my 1981 Rabbit.  The culprit ended up
being a short in the fuse panel that would only break contact
on occasion.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: danix@panix.com (Dan Simoes)
Subject: Test post - please ignore
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:40:28 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC


This is a test post from panix.com.

WANTED: one 1993 Volkswagen Jetta GLX, black, for free :-)
or will trade well-kept 86 Jetta GLI...

| Dan |

-- 
----
Dan Simoes                                       Voice: 914.747.2900 x415
danix@panix.com or
dans@danix.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: Re: gti headlight
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 07:34:00 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.023942.3738@wuecl.wustl.edu>, christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes...
>	Since we are on the subject of headlights, what kinds of upgrades are
>available for stock headlights? I saw H1 and H4 lights being sold with pretty
>high wattages (80/100 and 90/130W) from J.C.Whitney (Autotech has them too
>but they are about $10 more expensive). I think these are bolt on headlights
>so are easy to install. The stock headlights really stink (35/55W?) and
>I am wondering what the options for an upgrade are.
> 
>	Can someone please give us a roundoff of options, difficulty to install and
>legality of aftermarket headlights? Thanks!

Direct replacement European lenses are available for the 7" round, 4x6 
rectangle, and 200mm rectangle lights.  They bolt in and can be equipped with
any wattage H4 or H1 bulbs.  European 'aero-lens' lights (A2 Jetta/Golf/GTi)
are also available, but they are more expensive.  None of these lights are
legal for road-use in the United States, but it will depend on how stringent
your local laws are as to whether or not you can get away with it.  The 
improvement in lighting is dramatic, to say the least, but you need to be
responsible when upgrading.  Make sure your headlights are properly adjusted
and don't use the 80/100 H4's on the street -- they are just too bright.

True European conversions are also available for the Scirocco I and II, 
and for A2 GTi owners you can convert to the Euro 16V setup (looks like the
late model GTi) but these conversions are expensiv; $289 and $389 respectively.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ericd@synoptics.com (Eric Davis)
Subject: VW service in San Jose, Ca area?
Reply-To: ericd@synoptics.com
Organization: Synoptics Inc. Santa Clara, California.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:58:57 GMT


I am looking for a VW dealer for service on my car in the San Jose area. 

I am interested if you have had any good OR bad experiences with any particular 
dealer in the area.

Thanks
Eric Davis
ericd@synoptics.com
From: squiec@vccnw14.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: argument on when to change gears on VR6...
Date: 13 Nov 92 00:29:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: rpi.rfr1tka
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY

In article <1992Nov12.235149.10460@cc.umontreal.ca> paquetis@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Paquette Isabelle) writes:
>Hi, all...
>
>I'm having this ongoing "argument" with a friend of mine...who has a
>2-month old Pearl Burgundy Corrado VR6...as if this weren't enough,
>although the initial 1.5k are done, she still hesitates to bring
>RPM's above 3500, and even 3000...this motor (I would thionk)
>should just THRIVE on added rpm's? (within reas. limits of course...)
>
>Which brings me to my question, when should gears be changed, or is it
>just a questio of taste? I thought excessively low rpm's (below 3000)
>tended to soil (soot up?) the motor.
>
>Anybody has opinions on this?
>
>Isabelle
  As a general rule you always DOWNSHIFT below 2000rpm. As far as UPSHIFTING it depends on how you want to drive. I think the VR6 redline is @8000. When you
 are stoplighting (trying to go REAL fast) the optimal shift point is about 
 200-300 rpm before the redline. If you just want to sport it every day then
 you should shift between 4000 and 5500 rpm (the torque peak). THe manual
 undoubtedly recommends shifting around 3500 rpm when you want to cruise in
 economy mode. You will also alter your shift points depending on the gear
 you're in. At lower gears people usually shift at a higher rpm.
 DON'T FLAME ME IF I DIDN'T GET THE REDLINE OR TORQUE PEAK RPM RIGHT.
 IT'S CLOSE ENOUGH TO ANSWER HER QUESTION........
p.s. A motor should always be maxxed once in a while, it cleans it up &out
 and keeps it from become a cop car motor( always idling and burning up...)

HOPE THIS HELPS>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jah@slc.slac.stanford.edu
Subject: RE: Wiper problems on 86 Golf GTi
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:18:50 GMT

In artilcle 1992Nov5.104501.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu>
Kevin writes
 
>I am wondering if it is possible to replace one of the spindles on the
>windshield wiper mechanism of an 86 Golf.  Only one wiper is screwed up
>and the spindle needs to be replaced. I would rather not have to replace
>the entire unit but I guess it can be done.   Just in case I am not coming
>across correctly, I am speaking about the shaft that the wiper bolts onto.
>The splines on this are stripped and the wiper arm moves freely.  Having
>only one moving wiper kinda sucks. Rain-X does help though. I just have
>to keep the speed up above 35mph.  I doubt the 'X' is gonna do much
>for snow though.
> 
>Kevin

I too came across this problem in my '86 GTI twice.
Two years ago, when my left wiper started to go, I started tightening the bolt
untill it did no more good. At which point I decided that I needed a new spindle
. However the only spindle stocked by the dealership (maybe yours is different)
was one which required special crimping tools to install. The original spindle
was bolted on, but the newer/current ones are press-fit into the support. Well
I decided to drill out the holes neccessary in the new spindle and mount it
anyway. This was far too dificult for such a "simple" job. A year and a half
later I discovered the same thing happening to my right wiper, I then discovered
that this was a problem recognised by VW and they have redesigned the wiper arms
with smaller holes, apparently this has eliminated the need for splined shafts.
And LO! It works! I bought the new arm which was comprable in price to the
spindle and a lot easier to install. I havn't tested it against heavy snow, but
it has held up in HIGH wind, and mud, so I think it will do the job. Best `o
luck.

************************************************************************
*              /|\|/|\               ROAD-KILL DEGRADES TRACTION       *
*          \\  \|/|\|/  //       _____________________________________ *
*           \==/|\|/|\==/        |Josh Hadler                        | *
*       /====  \|/|\|/   ==/-\   |Accelerator Operations             | *
*      //====  /|\|/|\   ==\-/   |Stanford Linear Accelerator Center | *
*      /    /==\|/|\|/==\        |                                   | *
*          //  /|\|/|\  \\       |jah@slc.slac.stanford.edu          | *
*              \|/|\|/           |hadler@slacvm.bitnet               | *
*              /|\|/|\           |___________________________________| *
*                                                                      *
*   Anything expressed in the above is the opinion of the idiot that   *
*   wrote it... ME. And any problem you may have with that is yours    *
*   and yours alone.                                                   *
*   My employers, Stanford University, The Department of Energy,       *
*   and HEPAP do not neccessarilly share the same views as I do.       *
************************************************************************
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: Re: 13 inch snows on Corrado
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 05:32:00 GMT

In article <dchill.721074667@cansqnt>, dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill) writes...
>Hi,  does anyone know is 13x5 inch rims will fit on a 90 Corrado.
>I had them on my 87 GTI before it was misappropriated.  I know the
>bolt pattern is the same, what I am concerned with is the size
>of the front disks fitting inside the 13" rim.  Any help would
>be appreciated.  My snows are Hakkipelita (sp?) and in great shape
>still, I would hate to spend $1000 dollars on new snows and rims.

Absolutely not.  The Corrado has 13" discs in the front, requiring the use
of at least a 15" wheel.  Sorry.  You might be able to find some cheap 
steel wheels that will fit for use with snow tires, but they will still 
have to be 15" with the correct offset and bolt pattern.


--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jrtrint@srv.PacBell.COM (John Trinterud)
Subject: **** 1981 Rabbit and 1969 Bug for sale in Napa California ****
Keywords: 1981 rabbit, 1969 bug
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 20:19:24 GMT


Posted for my son - please call him directly.

Two Volkswagens for sale in Napa (Greater SF Bay Area, California)

1)	1981 Rabbit 2 door
	Body and Interior good
	2 - 1.6 liter engines
	2 - 4 speed tranmissions
	new exhaust

	$ 1000.00 or best offer

2)	1969 Bug
	Lowered front
	New carb/plugs/ignition system
	Grant wheel
	engine brace
	6 chrome rims
	New battery
	Body good
	Not smogged

	$ 600.00 firm

Both cars sold for cash only, as is, where is...

Call John Trinterud Jr - 707.257.2104 mornings around 10 AM or late
afternoons. I have no other info then what you see here, so call
John directly please.

John T - Sr
-- 
jrtrint@srv.PacBell.COM		"...Face down in the value-added stream..."

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Corrado fog lights
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1992 22:29:50 GMT

Has anyone replaced the clear dummy fog light lenses in their Corrado VR6
with real foglights?  If you have, I'd like to buy those old dummy lenses
from you!  Please respond by email...

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Euro Lights
Date: 11 Nov 92 13:53:23 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih) writes:

> 
>      Where can I get a pair of euro style lights for my 86 Scirocco?


APS - 1-800-423-3623

Or get the FAQ, or get the FAQ out! :)

--
Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker
    68' Cougar XR-7, 89' VW Golf, 74' Honda CL360t, Vextrex Unit Lover
Legal for off-road use only, which may never be used on a highway....
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 00:01:23 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.153729.11629@linus.mitre.org>, rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau) writes:
|> In article <921109.110252.amiller@almaden.ibm.com> amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) writes:
|> >Right now I limit myself to 100w/150w H4s in my main headlights and
|> >130w in my fog lamps.  When I add Rallye-2000 cornering lights with
|> >130w  bulbs my voltmeter starts reading below 12V.  By the way, there
|> >are 100w/170w H4 bulbs and 160w H1/H3 bulbs available - you'll need
|> >10g direct wiring with relays unless you want to burn up your dashboard.
|> 
|> What kind of lens are you using with the 100w/150w?  I have always
|> wondered how much power I can use with the large Hella rectangular
|> lenses.  Right now, I am using 80w/100w (with relays, of course), but
|> I wouldn't mind 100/150 or 100/170, since I do most of my driving at
|> night.

Have you guys considered the possibility of becoming sterile?

Sorry, it's Friday :-)

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw