HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: roy@alanine.phri.nyu.edu (Roy Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:51:31 GMT
Organization: Public Health Research Institute (New York)

tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:
> Well, '82 and later VW diesels have fast-glow plugs.

	I would be very surprised to find any pre-82s with the original
plugs and relay (the engine may last forever, but the glowplugs don't).
Since most replacement plug-and-relay sets are the new fast-cycle kind, I
would assume that most, if not all, pre-82s have the fast-cycle plugs in
them by now.

	BTW, as I found out one winter, if your plugs are working but your
relay is not, all you need do is jumper from the + terminal of your battery
to the glow plug bus (the easiest way is to clip onto the nub of the
right-most (#1? #4?) plug) for a few seconds, then have somebody crank the
engine.  The only thing to be careful us that you don't miss the plug and
hit the engine block with the jumper cable.

	Not something you want to do all the time, but it'll get you going
so you can drive to the store to buy a new relay.
-- 
roy@wombat.phri.nyu.edu (Roy Smith)
Public Health Research Institute
455 First Avenue, New York, NY 10016, USA
"This never happened to Bart Simpson."
From: xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com (P.Mann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vanagon tire replacement
Date: 21 Aug 92 02:24:12 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: chevron

A number of E-mail messages asked me to summarize the responses to 
my request for tire information for a Westfalia van.  The short answer
is that the conversion increases the weight of the vehicle to the
point where normal passenger tire load ranges are exceeded, leading
to poor handling, low durability, and dangerous driving.  The consensus
was that light truck tires are the way to go.  They have reinforced
sidewalls to handle the extra weight.  I purchased a set of Michelins
@ $95 per mounted and balanced.

BTW, the problem I ran into seems to be due to tire manufacturers not
differentiating between normal vanagons and Westfalias.  The tires
originally recommended to me would have been fine on the standard model,
and the dealer didn't know the difference.
-- 
Parker Mann                    xepama@usmi02.midland.chevron.com
 
"Keep those cards and letters."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: JWEST@r3vm.dsd.trw.com (Judson West)
Subject: Re: Moving to California.
Organization: TRW Electronic Systems Group
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 21:16:39 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.222052.26529@blaze.cs.jhu.edu>
alvear@panini.cs.jhu.edu (Domingo Bruno Alvear) writes:
 
>I am moving to California in a month and want to bring my 1987 16V VW Scirocco
>with me, but I am worried about "California Emissions" standards.
>
>Could some kind soul tell me what it will take to get my car under specs?
>
>  ( some stuff deleted)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Dom (alvear@cs.jhu.edu)
>
>
When I moved here 10 years ago, they cleared my 49-state '79 Rabbit with no
modifications. I suspect that they either know that it is a 49-state model
or will only hold cars to the 49-state levels. BTW my 49-state '80 Olds
passed with no problems either.
 
Judson West
From: klein@napali.Eng.Sun.COM (Mike Klein)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Engine jerking problem
Date: 14 Aug 1992 06:32:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mountain View, CA
Distribution: world
Reply-To: klein@napali.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: napali

In article 27086@oracle.us.oracle.com, jpau@oracle.com (Jeffrey Pau) writes:
>Hi, I have an 87 VW GTI, for the last few months, it has developed a problem that I
>can't identified.  Everytime when I give the engine some mild sudden gas, the whole
>car jerks on me.  The more sudden gas I give/stop giving, the more jerking motion I feel.
>For everyday driving, it becomes very annoying and I can feel the jerking motion (from
>the engine bay) through my steering wheel everytime I change gear.  Talking to many
>mechanics, they all thought that was caused by a worn engine mount.  So I changed both 
>the front and right rear engine mounts (they both looked good, but I replaced them 
>anyway), without any improvments, I desperately need some good suggestions.  
>
>Has any GOLF/GTI owners experienced similar problem?  My car has 83,000 miles on it.

I have an '85 GLI and get something like this.  It started recently,
and only happens when the gas tank is nearly empty (like, 2-4 gallons
left).  Also the fuel pump makes noise at this level.  Haven't tried to
trace it further.  It feels like the engine momentarily cuts out on
me.  Could be a tank of bad gas sometime in the past.
---

Mike Klein		{wherever}!sun!klein || mike.klein@Eng.Sun.COM
Sun Microsystems, Inc.	Mountain View, CA

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kjberte@cray.com (Kurt Bertelsen)
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Reply-To: kjberte@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:52:19 CDT

In article 17983@erenj.com, bdboyle@erenj.com (Bryan D. Boyle) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.170909.12764@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>  
>>Anyone else have any long-lived diesels out there?
>>
>1980 Diesel Rabbit #1 (callaway turbo conversion) 235,000
>1980 Diesel Rabbit #2 (ex-wife got it...at last count) 350,000
>1984 Diesel Rabbit #3 240,000 (wrecked on slippery road on way to
>airport)
>1988 Golf 145,000 

A little longer life yet...


1980 Audi 5000 diesel 390,043 + 3 years of driving with broken odometer
                     (the VDO cracked wheel problem, but to lazy to fix)


But, then I have an extra cylinder :-)


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kurt Bertelsen                  I am Connor MacLeod of the Clan MacLeod.
kjberte@cray.com                I was born in 1518 in the village of 
DoD# 0538                         Glenfinin on the shores of Loch Shere.
86 Miniceptor                   And...I am IMMORTAL.   - Highlander

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kincer@owgvm6.vnet.ibm.com (Mike Kincer)
Subject: Callaway Turbo on Scirocco
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 15:07:56 GMT
Reply-To: kincer@owgvm6.vnet.ibm.com (Mike Kincer)
Organization: IBM FSC Owego

I'm looking at an 83 Scirocco with a nice Callaway turbo upgrade.
The only problem is that it's not running right, so I have my doubts
about buying it.  One of the major problems I see is that the owner
knows nothing about cars and has taken it to highly incapable mechanics.
Right now, it has low compression on #1 and blows blue smoke out the
PVC valve.  Incapables so far have replaced the head gasket (right one?),
planed the head, put the timing belt on one notch wrong (dont know advanced
or retarded) and screwed around with everything else before finding the
belt wrong.  Could this have caused a valve seat to burn (my prediction
why blowing blue smoke & low compression).
Does anybody have experience with Callaway and/or own
one like this?  I'd like to get user input before calling Callaway.

Mike                              __  __o         / "Everythin's IMHO,
Kincer@owgvm6.vnet.ibm.com       __   \<,        /    irrespective of my
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~    ______()/ ()______/      employer's"
From: kenter@head-cfa.harvard.edu (Almus Kenter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: in the market for used jetta..rfi
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:04:06 GMT
Organization: Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory, Cambridge, MA,  USA



	I am looking to buy a used jetta. I commute ~100miles rt
each day and as such will be putting on lots of miles.  What specific
problems should I be aware of in these cars? Any year better than the
other? Are GLI's worth the extra bucks? (both initially and in maintainence).
What mileage should I expect given the particular year/model of car.
Are they good in the snow??? What are street prices for 1988,89,90..
vehicles? Thanks in Advance...

				-Almus
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: AR.PBC@forsythe.stanford.edu (Paul Chock)
Subject: '80 VANAGON 4SALE - ,000
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 15:59:31 GMT

There seems to be some folks looking for this kind of "volks", so
here is my offering:

   ********* '80 Vanagon ************************
   - 7 passenger
   - @ 104k miles
   - A/C that needs a new pulley
   - factory auxlliary gas fired heater, which wasn't operational
      when we got the van 7 yrs ago, but all parts appear to be
      there
   - engine got a new top end (new factory head assemblies,
      cylinders/pistons) @ 65k miles

   *****************  $2,000  *******************

   I live in Redwood City, Calif., which is about 30 miles south
   of San Francisco.



   You can contact me at:
      ar.pbc@forsythe.Stanford.edu
      weekdays: (415)723-2812
      otherwise: (415)368-2293



To:  AR.PBC(Paul.Chock)
From: bdboyle@maverick1.erenj.com (Bryan D. Boyle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Jetta side vent window
Date: 13 Aug 92 12:49:59 GMT
Reply-To: bdboyle@maverick1.erenj.com (Bryan D. Boyle)
Organization: Exxon Research & Engineering


Of course, you can go to your local dealer and purchase a new vent 
window where the hinge is >screwed< into the window to completely 
solve the problem-i think the cost is in the $100. per side (note
why I braketed the word on the second line...;-) good luck- BTW, 
Loc-tite makes a good glass adhesive that seems to be stronger than
regular mirror-attach stuff.  It is in a red tube, and really works
better than the stuff they sell for mirrors...have used it in my airplane,
too, and it seems to work well...  

Bryan D. Boyle     | Opinions are mine, not Exxon's....
Exxon Research and |
Engineering Co.    | Be Alert.  The world needs more lerts...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: M13204@mwvm.mitre.org
Subject: Eroding heads
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 12:31:13 GMT

Along with my two VWs ('67 Bug, '82 Jetta), I own a Alfa Spider which has
aluminum heads as my Jetta.  In one of my Alfa parts catalog they sell
something called a 'Mag Plug'.  Here is their blurb:
 
    Prevent erosion of your aluminum cylinder head by using our Mag Plug.
    Electrolysis in the cooling system removes metal from the aluminum
    head and block, resulting in the deterioration of your expensive
    engine components.  Let the Mag Plug erode instead of your cylinder
    head.  Mag Plug is a sacrificial magnesium anode that inhibits the
    electrolysis process.  Our Mag Plug replaces the coolant drain plug
    in Alfa V6 blocks or a head plug in Alfa 4cylinder cars.  Replace
    once a year.
 
The price is $19.50 a piece.  I found one person who has used them and said
that after a year of use, the plug looked dark but seemed unaffected by its
stay in the engine.  I thought that it would be pitted and disfigured.
I haven't seen anything so far in Alfa literature about using phosphate-free
anti-freeze to prevent the electrolysis of the head.
 
I wonder if there is such a product for the VW aluminum engines.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Great Canadian Bug Show: Toronto, Aug 23
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 13:00:55 GMT

Is anyone planning to go?  In case you didn't know about it, here are some
details:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Volkswagen Canada presents the...

			Second Annual
		    -----------------------
		    GREAT CANADIAN BUG SHOW
		    -----------------------
		    Toronto, Ontario, Canada

		    Sunday, August 23, 1992 
    VW Canada Head Office -- 1940 Eglinton Ave. E., Scarborough
      Gates open at 8:00 am -- Registration closes at 11:00 am

Featuring...	* Beetles to EuroVans
		* Air and water cooled VWs * Vintage to wild show cars
		* Vintage video show * Obsolete part sales
		* Come see the old * Come see the new
		* Boutique items
		* Over 40 classes in all

Plus much more!	* Spectators FREE!
		* Parking FREE!
		* Many trophies
		* Events and food all day
		* Show exhibitor registration $15.00 at the door

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you're thinking of going, let me know!  You can also get info by calling
1-800-263-9507 (at least in Canada, but maybe US as well).  And I can give
directions for those not familiar with the Toronto area...

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: XOS light & needed 1.6l turbo diesel engine
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:09:49 GMT

> I boldly asserted:
>>
>>The counter for the OXS light isn't even under the dash!  This guy is
>>lying through his teeth.

But brophy@med.unc.edu (J. Jon Brophy) said:

>I hd a 83 GTI and the oxy switch was indeed in the dash...

Well, maybe I was wrong... I had an '84 GTi a few years ago, and I
thought that's where it was.  Maybe I'm confusing it with the EGR
counter on the '77 Rabbit... or the OXS counter on the '84 Audi Coupe...

Bewildered,
-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Cupholders in an Audi!!
Keywords: Audi 100CS quattro wagon
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 08:27:50 GMT

Visited my local Audi dealer (Lasher Sacramento) to see what was
new, and to my great surprise, they had a 100CS quattro wagon, and
a bigger surprise, CUP HOLDERS!

Yes, for the American market, and for those who buy the wagons
(read: family types) they put the cup holder in the center console,
next to the hand brake. In other 100s, it is only a blank space.

I remember reading in one of the car magazines that Audi was
working on cup holders for the American market.

By the way, they still have a 1991 200 turbo quattro- they've even
advertised it for $10,000 below sticker, and no one has bought it!!
Boy, I'd trade in my turbo in a minute if I could swing the
financing.

Also seen, the 90CS quattro with the same V6 engine of the larger
100 models.

They still have an S4. (salivate, pant, pant)


-- 
#############################################################
# Scaramento Public Access UNIX     sactoh0.SAC.CA.US       #  
#  (916) 649-0161, 722-6516 & 722-5068    E-Mail & USENET   #
################## default .signature file ##################
From: mwsn_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Matthew Weasner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Thanks.
Date: 13 Aug 92 23:41:18 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

Just a quick thanks to all who responded to my latest Bug problem, (the one
about it dying when I came to rest) it was the carb. Or the automatic choke,
to be precise. I disarmed the sucker, per the Idiot Manual and voila, no 
more stalling! Sure starts like shit now though, oh well, I have a auto to 
manual choke conversion kit coming in the mail, hope it works!
thanks again to all who replied.
outta here...
matt

68 Bug. (no more flames though! on the car that is :-))
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Brake Adjustments on Bug
Date: 17 Aug 92 14:56:26 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Aug17.135408.20324@cci632.cci.com>, lmm@cci632.cci.com (Lance Michel) writes:
> 
> I'm having trouble finding the right adjustment on my 73 Beetle drum brakes.
> The shoes have about 5mm of lining left, and the Drums look plenty thick 
> enough.  I'm tightening the star adjusters as far as they will go, and then
> backing them off about a half turn.  Is that too much?
> After backed off, the wheels rotate with enough resistance to stop them after
> about two revolutions. 
> 
> After adjusting, the pedal travels much too far before the brakes kick in.
> I have to really crush the pedal before any decent braking occures.
> 
You are backing off 'way too much.  Tighten the star adjusters until 
the wheel *doesn't turn* then back off *2 teeth*.  If the wheel still 
drags at some points as it turns around your drums are out of round so 
get them turned.

This is harder to do on the rear wheels because of the inertia of the 
rear axle and transaxle gears, so do the fronts first and get the hang 
of it, then do the rears.  Your pedal should start braking much 
higher.  If this still doesn't do it, you may have brake shoes that 
are badly worn in spots, or broken return springs, or a bum master 
cylinder.  All of these are relatively easy to repair/replace.


Electric Monk                 (Bruce Gaede)
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
From: alvear@whatever.cs.jhu.edu (Domingo Bruno Alvear)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: I hate idiot lights.  (Or how do I add real guages!)
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:31:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: blaze.1992Aug21.163144.19123
Distribution: usa
Organization: Johns Hopkins Computer Science Department, Baltimore, MD

Hello all.  More questions about my 1987 VW Scricco 16V.

Is it possible to remove the ashtray (I don't smoke) and replace the new
hole with some real gauges?  Something like a voltmeter and maybe oil
pressure?

D'you know d'you know.  ;-)

Dom
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Must I use Autobahn Brand Anti_Freeze?
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 15 Aug 92 14:44:44 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <1992Aug12.185305.26418@news.columbia.edu> baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg) writes:
>
>	Aluminum + Phosphate = Aluminum Phosphate = Dissolved Cylinder head!
>
>	Make sure that the antifreeze says in it "safe for aluminum heads"
>
>	Bruce
>

But Prestone does contain Phosphates *and* claims to be safe
for aluminum. Some kind of buffering?

Jan
-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
From: gmeg@harvey (Guy Megson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '83 Golf- Electric problem?
Date: 20 Aug 92 10:54:24 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3


   Hello ,

   I have a 1983 1300cc Golf CL which has developed a strange problem;

   If I use the radio with the engine switched off and then attempt to
   start the car it takes a realy long time and lot of effort to start 
   (almost as if the battery were drained). Also the other day a drove
   the car home from work, stopped in the driveway, switched the engine 
   off but left the side lights on (won`t let me have the heads on without 
   the engine running), when I restarted it was OK but would not idle. 
   Everytime I released the accelerator pedel the car cut out.
  
   I have checked out a the battery (Heavy Duty maint free) and thats OK.

   Has anybody out there come across a similar symptom and know a cure?
   Thank you in advance for any inforamtion you can provide,

   Guy.
 
   --------------------------------------------------------------------
   Mid Range Systems Division / Unix Systems Integration Group /
   Integrated Desktop Centre /  Desktop Computing.

   ICL (MRSD) UK Ltd.
   ____________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: How easy to replace push tubes on 78 bus with pancake engine?
Keywords: 78 bus pancake
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:55:29 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.024425.19808@cs.umb.edu> mike@ra.cs.umb.edu (Michael J. Thibodeau) writes:
>I have a 78 bus with the last of the aircooled engines. My problem is that it
>has a nasty habit of leaking oil at both ends of most of the push tubes. My
>question is how easy is it to replace these, and can I use the 2-piece
>expandable push tubes? 
>
>-mike

It's reasonably easy, though messy.  You have to unscrew/remove/bend
the sheet metal to get access, and remove the rocker covers, rocker arms,
and push rods.  Then theoretically the tubes can be pulled out through
the cylinder heads.  However, if they've been in for a long while, they
will be stubborn.  If you don't mind the expense (about $6/tube) it
is far easier to just mutilate the old tubes with vice grips to remove
them (crush the tube with the vice grips and then twist).  Take care
not to get gunk in the lifter bores (clean that area before hand).

BTW you can also replace any bad lifters at the same time.  

2 more things:  the Vanagon used virtually the same air-cooled engine
(different heads) until '83, and my '80 Vanagon hasn't have troubles
with leaking pushrod tubes.

	- Dan

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gibbemeyer@cntrol.enet.dec.com (Alan Gibbemeyer)
Subject: Transmission problem on 91 GTI
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: 19 AUG 92 11:20:13


I'm experiencing a problem with my transmission where every
morning the transmission will grind on the first few first to
second shifts.  This problem seems to get worse when the car
has been sitting longer.  I have a self-adjusting clutch and
the clutch seems to be in adjustment.  When I shift it seems
like very little pressure is needed right before it grinds;
where the tranny usually holds in between and feels more notchy.

Could it be that my tranny is low on oil? I have had a new
clutch put in (under warranty bad clutch disc) and this problem
has been occuring ever since the replacement.  I seem to remember
the car grinding into second on the first shifts when it was very cold
out (<30 deg F) but never when it was 70 deg.

Any ideas to what could be the cause of this problem?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated,
Alan Gibbemeyer
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rjones@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Ronald Jones)
Subject: Re: Callaway Turbo on Scirocco
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:18:38 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.150756.29583@watson.ibm.com> kincer@owgvm6.vnet.ibm.com (Mike Kincer) writes:
>I'm looking at an 83 Scirocco with a nice Callaway turbo upgrade.
>The only problem is that it's not running right, so I have my doubts
>about buying it. owner
>
Does anybody have experience with Callaway and/or own
>one like this?  I'd like to get user input before calling Callaway.

I've got an 83 GTi with a Callaway turbo package and have had no significant
problems after 105,000 miles. One thing to watch for are the state of the
turbo inlet and discharge hoses. These must be replaced periodically as
the rubber deteriorates. You can buy the stuff (larger heater hose) at
NAPA or from Callaway. If these hoses are loose it can cause drivability
problems especially at idle.

Check the exhaust for smoke. A sure sign of bad turbo bearings. I would
be concerned if it hasn't been maintained by the owner. These cars do
take some TLC and dsensitivity to what can cause problems e.g. avoiding
heat soak by not turning the motor off right after some heavy driving.


I would also worry if they have raised the compression significantly by
planing the head. You don't want increased compression with a turbo. Is
the turbo intercooled or does it use water injection (a pain). DOes it
have the microfueller (better performance).

BTW Callaway sold the VW turbo stuff to a CA company. I don't know
the address. DOes anyone?

-- 
 < Ron Jones                   |    E-mail:       rj+@osu.edu   > 
 < The Ohio State University   |    Office:      (614) 292-1665 >
 < 338 West Tenth Avenue       |    FAX:(9-5PM)  (614) 292-7151 > 
 < Columbus, Ohio 43210        |        "eschew obfuscation"    >      
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 02:35:49 PDT
Subject: Wanted 1980-84 air cooled Vanagon
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

  this post is for a friend. He's looking for a 1980-84 Vanagon. 
We're located in Corvallis Or. and he'd be interested in something in 
Oregon, Washington, and Northern California. 
   Wants an air cooled Vanagon only. 
  
   If you've got a "good one" for sale. please respond to:
   stan_lake@hp6400.desk.hp.com
  thanks. 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw