HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

The truth is that new three phase motors are lower-priced than
single phase motors of equal power.  They are simpler, since
they don't need a start winding with its cetrifugal switch and capacitor.
The they use less copper and iron too.  Check out the price of a Unisaw with
5 HP motor, three phase versus single phase.  The three phase unit is
about $100 less, and lighter.   

On the used market, there is a tremendous oversupply of three phase units.
This crushes prices.  You can of course swap motors in some cases.  The
savings is usually eaten up by the cost of the new single-phase motors
and conversion labor.  Most dealers know this, and price accordingly.

The first poster had it right, it is relatively easy to come up with a cheap
three phase converter.  Once started, a three phase motor will run on single
phase power and generate a pseudo third phase (90 degrees shifted, 160 VAC)
on its third winding.  All other three-phase motors running in the system
will contribute also, so if you sequence the startup, the already running
motors can help start others of higher power. 

SUMMARY
The main advantage of using three-phase power is abilty to buy cheap used
industrial grade machines.  There are several ways to power them, with 
different conversion losses.  The best way to go is with utility company
three-phase, the second best is a real rotary converter (motor/generator 
on a single shaft, 97% efficient).  The third best is the pseudo three-phase
kludge described above.  You sacrifice power output (only 80-90% of rated
power).  The least effective is to simply run off single phase, with the
starting circuit described in an earlier post.  You can only expect to get
66% of rated power, due to motor copper wiring limitations.
Your 5 HP Unisaw would only see 3.3 HP.  Sill a hell of a saw!

From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:18:35 GMT
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:

> Don't forget that Forstner lived before Electric drills.   The bit is
> perfectly well adapted to slow speed drilling using a brace and Forstner
> bit.   I would hate to try to do an angled hole this way,  but I'd
> be willing to try a 2" or 3" hole this way.  I'd practice on scraps
> a lot though!

	Don't forget, there were drill dresses long before electric
motors...........

						-Shaw
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: plim@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu (plim)
Subject: How to bleach wood?
Organization: NYU Medical Center, New York, NY 10016, USA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:27:03 GMT

We have laborously finished stripping old varnish from our kitchen cabinets.
We like the look of the stripped wood so much that we'd like to preserve it 
that way. Unfortunately, varnish would make the wood appear darker again.

I've heard of Wood Bleach but haven't been able to find any at the local
Pergament store.  Is there such a thing? If so, what is a good brand, how 
do I use it and where can I buy it?

Thanks in advance
Peggy Lim
Network Systems Specialist 
NYU Medical Libray
(212) 263-6990
plim@med.nyu.edu
From: milts@mse.cse.ogi.edu (Milt Scholl)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 23 Jan 93 00:22:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: ogicse.48991
Organization: Oregon Graduate Institute, Material Science & Engineering

I just finished a twin sized bed for my youngest child - made of white
oak for the legs, headboard, and footboard, and a maple support bar
structure for the futon which goes on top.  Plans from nowhere but
my owh head.

I'm now starting (having obtained adequate permission from the SO,
ruler of the household, universe, etc ;-) on a pair of tall 
skinny cabinets to hold compact disks.  They'll by 6 feet tall, 1
foot wide and 8 inches deep.  Sand in the base will stablize them
and at the top will be a light shining thourgh multiple 1/4 inch
glass bars.  Again, plans from nowhere but my own head.  Oh yeah,
the sides will be figured maple, trim will be ash and a bit of
walnut, back and shelves will be maple.  Doors will be glass or
frames with tight caning.

milt scholl
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:44:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: rpi.dxp3g9k
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY

In article <1k3hn9INN1sr@CS.UTK.EDU> hethmon@hydra2a.cs.utk.edu (PAUL HETHMON) writes:
>|> 
>|> DELTA has come up with a solution to the switch, a solution to their
>|> safety guard, and several other solutions.  The brochure I saw shows
>|> that they are now producing a safety guard which is attached to the right
>|> side of the table (assuming that you are facing the saw).  This safety
>|> guard is a tubular affair which extends up in the air and across the
>|> table to reach and cover the blade.  It is advertised to be used with
>|> the dado and other blades without having to be removed.  It has anti-kick
>|> back devices which if they must be removed may be stored in the "arm" which
>|> reaches across the table from right to center.  The "arm" has a place for
>|> a lamp attachment and last but not least...the arm has the switch in 
>|> it! 
>
>Do you have a model number or name for this item?
>

Is this the "Uniguard" that is mentioned in many mail order catalogues?

Eric?

ps. Any Delta cabinet saw owners out there care to comment on why they
bought the cabinet saw rather than the contractor's saw?  Reasons
other than "more power" and my own "gut feeling" are of particular
interest.


-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: djt@perkin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RE: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 22 Jan 1993 18:43 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: perkin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

I tend to make small stuff - it is all I can fit in what with trying to 
finish my thesis in a reasonable time and all. Lately I've been making 
cribbage boards (two techniques of possible interest follow). Soon I'll 
be starting on hammered dulcimers (I'm supposed to build one for a friend,
but I think I'll make 3).

The cribbage boards have LOTS of holes in them. My "jig" to locate the 
holes is made with my computer. I wrote a program to generate the coor-
dinates of the holes, and plot them out full sized on a laser printer.
The paper can then be rubber-cemented to the wood, and a drill press used
to drill the holes. I've found that with a little patience, and a nice
pointy brad-point bit, it is difficult to detect any irregularities in the
drilled pattern.

The second idea I had was for decorations on projects (probably most useful
on small projects, but who knows?). As it turns out, standard 14-guage 
wire fits snugly into 1/16th-inch holes. I use sterling silver wire "dots"
to mark out the cribbage board scoring tracks, and occasional other accents.
You just snip off short pieces of wire (brass, silver, copper, etc.) with
a wire-cutter, and use them like brads in pre-drilled holes.

Feel free to use/modify these ideas as suits you, I make no claim to them
(isn't that, after all, exactly what this news group is all about?).

					Good Luck - Dave.
	(in case my .sig STILL doesn't work) djt@deimos.caltech.edu
From: BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU (Wile E. Coyote)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Date: 26 Jan 93 13:59:54 GMT
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Greetings!

Steve Garcia writes:

>I don't recall the exact minimum thickness of the Delta portable. It is not,
>however, a problem.  I use a carrier board to increase the effective thickness
>to something easily handled by the planer. (Lay workpiece on top of a larger
>flat piece of wood and run both through the planer together.)  I was worried
>at first about the safety of such an operation, but a shop teacher is the one
>who demonstrated it to me and says safety is not a problem with it.  I do make
>it habit to stand to one side, however, and I try to use a carrier board that
>does not have an extremely smooth face.
>
>>I failed to point out that even with the carrier board, I've never tried
>>to go below about 3/16".  Sorry about that.
>>

I've gone as thin as 1/16" with a carrier board.  I usually send the piece
through stuck to a piece of 3/4" MDF or particle board with double sided
carpet tape (the thin plastic stuff).  It can be a little tricky removing the
thin stock from the carrier board though.  The tape holds almost too well.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: sgarcia@cisco.com (Steven Garcia)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Date: 22 Jan 1993 18:38:04 GMT
Organization: cisco Systems, Incorporated
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: lager.cisco.com

In article <79SD02rC33BD01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, jaz00@diag.amdahl.com (Joe Zuk) writes:
|>                                                                            
|> What is the thinnest wood you can make with a portable planer? (1/8, 1/2)  
|> Where I buy my wood they will only go down to 1/2, they say there planner  
|> will just eat up anything smaller.                                         

I don't recall the exact minimum thickness of the Delta portable.
It is not, however, a problem.  I use a carrier board to increase
the effective thickness to something easily handled by the planer.
(Lay workpiece on top of a larger flat piece of wood and run both
through the planer together.)  I was worried at first about the safety
of such an operation, but a shop teacher is the one who demonstrated it
to me and says safety is not a problem with it.  I do make it habit to
stand to one side, however, and I try to use a carrier board that does
not have an extremely smooth face.

|> Why does the Mikia (sp) cost so much more than the Delta?                  

Makita?  This does not address the cost difference.  You've probably
noticed a major design difference between the Makita and Delta, but
in case you haven't ...  The Makita's cutter head is fixed in place
and the lower bed is raised/lowered to set thickness.  On the Delta,
the lower bed is fixed and the cutter head is raised/lowered.  I'm sure
each has its advantages.  Just be aware of this difference if you have
a preference for design versus the other.

Steve Garcia
     <sgarcia@cisco.com>

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: frank@austin.ibm.com (F. Karner)
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Originator: frank@karner.austin.ibm.com
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:45:43 GMT
Organization: IBM Advanced Workstation Division


In article <C19K8w.444@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>, eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish) writes:
> In article <C17zDM.Mux@hfglobe.intel.com> gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson) writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
> >going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both 
> >handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.
> I've got a small Makita driver/drill (6010 I think) and the larger
> 9.6v 6095dw. The 9.6 job will drive screws into just about anything.
> I've used even the small one drive threaded masonry screws through
> 2x4's into cinderblock with no problem. Unless you're really dealing
> with some unbelievable tasks, I imagine the 9.6 would be more than
> satisfactory - especially with torque adjustments. 
> 
I used to be of the same opinion, until I got my hands on a Ryobi 220. 
This beast is so powerful and easy to handle that it has become
something of a prize possession.  BTW, mine came with extra battery and
a flashlight, in addition to a very fast charger and a hard plastic
case.   What a buy!

As far as sheer torque and charge duration, I have not seen anything
that even comes close.  I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned this
model before.
-- 

         DISCLAIMER: The opinions expressed in this posting are mine
            solely and do not represent my employer in any way.
       F. A. Karner AIX Technical Support | karner@austin.vnet.ibm.com
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Finish question
Date: 25 Jan 93 17:00:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.
Originator: davek@puma

I was wondering what kinds of woods they use in Finland...

No, just kidding.  Seriously, I am in the midst of refinishing a
mahogany veneer table I fished out of the garbage, and will soon
be finishing an oak blanket chest I'm making.  For both of these,
I would like to simultae the finish on some "antique" dressers I
have.  On both of these, it seems all the color is contained in
the finish itself, rather than the wood being stained then a few
coats of clear finish applied.  I would like to know, should anyone
reading this know and be willing to share the information, what
can be used to produce this type of finish.  Can I just buy some
regular Minwax stain and mix it in with some clear varnish?  Or
are there special coloring agents used for this purpose?

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord)
Subject: Re: New Workbench (was Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....)
Organization: BNR, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 15:42:59 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.221406.15837@bmerh85.bnr.ca> mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord) writes:
...
>To all of that I added the novel "twin screw" end vice from Vertias, with a
>large maple jaw drilled for dogs on the sides and top, matching those on the
>main benchtop.  This vice uses a pair of 1.25" acme thread screws, with small

Ooops.. error.. 1.125" acme threads.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: hardwood floor repair
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 23:13:35 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.214628.7848@usl.edu> kdk4166@usl.edu (Knierim Kathleen D) writes:

>Now for another wood floor question:  I've read repeatedly that refinishing a
>small area rather than a whole room doesn't work if the finish is polyurethane.
>What happens if one tries sanding and refinishing a small area?  In the middle
>of my den there is an area with warped boards due to a leaking canteen sitting
>on the floor for a few hours :(.  Is the only way to fix this to have the entire
>room sanded and refinished?  It was already sanded once just before I moved in, 
>and not having any subfloor I don't really want to sand more wood off the floor
>than necessary.

You really don't have anything to lose by trying it. I have had fair
success with a technique of applying a layer or two of thin varnish and
"feathering" it into the old, unsanded area. I sometimes use what's called
a "dry brush" technique for the actual feathering; sometimes I use a paper
towel. I use this mainly for varnishing the areas in moulding that get
sanded when I fill nail holes.

If the boards have cupped or raised up, you might want to wait a while.
The water heater blew in my parents house one year, soaking and expanding 
the oak flooring in the hall outside its cubbyhole. It took over a year,
but the boards gradually flattened back out.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | You can't find the answers in the bottom of a
George Patterson -  | whiskey glass, but if you look hard enough, you'll
                    | forget the questions.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:56:41 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Removing stuck router bits

Greetings!

Larry McGuire writes:

>Does anyone have any tips for easily removing stuck router bits from
>the collet?  I seem to remember this discussed in some magazine
>before but I can't recall what the advice was.  Is there some type
>of product used to grab onto the shaft so that I don't have to tap the
>side of those expensive little buggers?

I usually just wrap a big wad of paper towel around the cutter to protect my
fingers and to help get a good grip.  This usually allows me to pull it out by
hand.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 08:20:35 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Anyone cut metal with a circular saw?

I've used a circle saw with a mettle cutting (abrasive) blade to cut
through 3/8 cast iron (plung cutting a square hole into an old table saw
top).

It worked far better than I had hoped. Slower than cutting wood; but,
infinatle faster than a hack saw.

I've also used one to cut a leaf spring in half length wise, I got the spring
to hot and dammaged the temper; but, the cut it self was good.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Re: Table saw surface protection
Date: 28 Jan 93 14:33:22 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In article 14340025@pollux.svale.hp.com, rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr) writes:
:^O___I have tried both Dri-cote (sp?) and Tre-wax.  I much prefer the wax and
:^O___it is only about $4 for a near lifetime supply vs. $8-10 for a little
:^O___bottle of Dri-cote.  One man's opinion; but that's why they make them
:^O___both, so you can buy the one you like and the world will be that
:^O___much closer to utopia.

Try Top-Cote, rather than Dri-cote and I think you'll be pleased as it lasts longer and does not contaminate your wood with wax.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord)
Subject: Re: workbench height
Organization: BNR, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 15:04:53 GMT

In article <1k46ggINNe2d@early-bird.think.com> steveo@think.com (stephen anthony) writes:
>
>In thinking about the design of a workbench for myself, I quickly decided 
>on the width and length. However, the height dimension seems a little 
>more difficult to figure out. I thought I'd see what net.wisdom had to
>offer for ideas.
>
>I'm 6'2", and plan to use the bench primarily for hand tool work. Planing,
>shooting, dovetailing, etc. I will probably be doing some router work
>also. So, what height is appropriate? I believe (I don't have the plans
>in front of me) that Frid's bench is 33" high. I think (but am not sure)
>that this would be too low. Would 35" be more appropriate? 34"? Other?

I have read from two independant sources that ergonomic studies on this topic
indicate that for average male height of 5'9" - 6'0", a bench height of 36"
is considered best for general hand tool use.  Add 8-10" if exclusively used
for wood carving or engraving.

As you are 6'2", assuming average arm/leg/torso proportions, a bench height of
perhaps 38" - 39" might work nicely.  

The idea is to avoid having to constantly bend deeply forward (and off-balance)
to operate a hand plane/chisel on a piece placed on top of the workbench.
You could try to work this out for your own specific proportions by standing
upright, and holding a hand plane such that your forearm is just below 
horizontal, with your elbow tucked in to your torso.  I would then allow an
inch or two for the workpiece projection above the benchtop, and then figure
out the bench height from that.  

Perhaps a better strategy would be to:

	(1) read up on ergonomics first-hand, rather than relying on my
	faulty memory or general net-(un)conciousness,

or even better:

	(2) constuct your workbench base in such a way that it can be 
	shortened by 6" or so if need be, and then deliberately aim high
	on the first pass.  The bench I constructed using the Veritas plans
	uses a rigid, yet dissassemble-able base design for this purpose
	(I am average proportions, 5'9" tall, and my bench top is 35.5" high).
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 25 Jan 93 18:49:15 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino

This thread is still alive, I think because people are still interested in
industrial grade tools at bargain prices.  It's certainly a buyer-beware story.

An earlier post asked about swapping motors on older bandsaws.  Sometimes
its not possible, because the motors were custom for the saw.  Many were 
direct drive, and literally bolt onto the saw body.  If you aren't sure,
don't take a risk on a big three phase unit.  There is usually a reason they
are very cheap.  Besides, the single phase units are out there by the
dozens.  

I mentioned one source, Hall Machinery in San Jose, 408-453-8005.  Kirk 
Hall always has several single phase and three phase big (20-36 inch)
band saws available (and miscellaneous big table saws too).

Another source is Puget Sound Machinery.  They advertise in the classified
section of Fine Woodworking and make better sense if you are in the Seattle
area.  Check the yellow pages in you area, shipping is a cost factor on
this big stuff.
From: biggersc@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Incra Jig 
Date: 24 Jan 93 17:24:55 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

I just purchased several parts to the standard (not Pro) Incra Jig
apparatus.  Has anyone had any luck with it?  I have had some success
with small boxes, etc.  Would like to hear from someone who has 
tried it!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
From: <RSASMC@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:16:35 EST
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company

A second nit. Plexiglas is the correct tradename, not Plexiglass. As my
company owns this tradename, I felt compelled to correct this. Thanks. I now
feel better.

*** Matt Cairns ***

Rohm and Haas Co.
Spring House, PA
From: fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:29:54 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

In article <1993Jan25.010230.1862@intellistor.com>, grun@intellistor.com (Pau

I just finished making some shaker coat racks.  I am and have been for
serveral months now, working on a chest of drawers similar to the
chest Norm made on the NYW.  When I am finished I am going to build
a table for my computer.

  =====================================================================
  + Rudy Fichtenbaum        +  Internet Fichtenbaum@Desire.Wright.edu +
  + Department of Economics +  Bitnet   Fichtenbaum@WSU.Bitnet        +
  + Wright State University +  Telephone 513-873-3070/3071            +
  + Dayton, OH 45435        +                                         +
  =====================================================================
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