HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stand@austin.ibm.com (Stan Douglas)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: F4 Fan Jet Model -- Thorpe kit
Date: 5 Nov 92 14:48:32 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin
Originator: stand@stand.austin.ibm.com


I have acquired a model of an F4 that is about 70% complete.  It will
require some rework on my part, like replacing hinges, fiberglassing
some of the stress points & etc.  What I need is to find a copy of the
plans for it.  It is a Thorpe kit from England.  It is balsa and made
for a 40 size engine.

Can anyone help?  I would settle for a phone number or address of the
Thorpe Co.

Thanks,

     Stan Douglas

     Austin Radio Control Association (ARCA)
     stand.austin.ibm.com
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Attaching Plastic Windows
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 10:44:48 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

>I'm finally to the point of "gluing" the plastic windows onto
>my Goldberg Cub and am looking for some hints on how to do this
>without making a mess of it.  I know you can't use CA because the
>fumes make the plastic milky (learned the hard way).
>
>I'd really like to do a "professional" job, especially on the front
>window where the plastic has to attach to the outside of the cabin.
>
>How do you do it???  What kind of glue/epoxy/contact cement?

Believe it or not, I get my fastest/easiest/usually-the-best results
with CA.  The trick is to wick very small amounts of thin glue along the
edges.  You must let the glue dry when there's very little of it to prevent
the 'milking' of the plastic.  A very good fit of the plastic is important.

What causes the milking, is when large amounts of glue start to cure 
quickly, and emits noxious fumes...  Sort of like sympathetic detonation 
(I think this is the correct phrase), the glue in large quantities starts
to cure and the heating catalytic action helps the surrounding glue cure
also, and it literally goes up in smoke.  But if you use small amounts,
it doesn't smoke much if at all.  Putting the canopy/plastic windows on
this way takes more than a couple of minutes, but the results are
pretty d**n good, and strong to boot.

Otherwise, there's a glue called RC-56 that's designed for gluing plastic
to wood or plastic to plastic.  I've never used it, but it's similar to
a phenolic glue (elmers,etc), and takes a couple of hours to dry - you need
to have your plastic held down firmly into place, or it won't work very
good.

>Thanks in advance,

Good luck!
  -swb-  (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Steve Jahr)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:30:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Four Wheel Drive
Organization: Old Programmers Home
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

Ok... the question is "in a 4WD, how does having an unmatched ratio
between front and rear alter the power output through the front/rear?"

It all boils down to the fact that *no* tire is 100% efficient, it is
always slipping to some degree.  Now we are used to the idea of the
tire slipping to the side and in fact we use this slip affect to tune
the under/over steer characteristics.  But in fact the tire also slips
to the front/rear as well.  This is how we can alter the under/over
steer with the "throttle".

So to look at an example... let's say that the front/rear ratio is
1.1.  This means that the rear is trying to move 1.1 units to every
1 unit moved by the front.  Clearly the operative word here is "trying"
since we know the frame and suspension is just not going to allow the
rear to overtake the front.  So there is going to be some built-in
slip going on.  Exactly where and how much will depend on traction
at the front vs. rear which in turn depends on things like tire size
(width) and weight loading.  But to simplify things let's assume that
the slip is split evenly front to rear.  So when the rear tries to
move 1.1 units it really only gets to move 1.05 units and thus has
a .05 unit slip backwards.  Likewise the front tries to move 1.00
units and gets moved 1.05 and thus has a .05 slip forwards.  Note
that the slip vectors oppose and balance each other.

Now lets apply some acceleration (we *are* racing after all (: )...
now all tires have a backwards slip due to the acceleration.  But
the rears have a *higher* slip because they started with backwards
slip while the fronts have a *lower* because their forward slip offset
and canceled some of the backwards slip.

As to what benefits can be derived from all this... I leave that to
the individual tuners.  After all figuring this stuff out is how
races are won.

Steve Jahr
jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole)
Subject: Attaching Plastic Windows
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:15:16 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Reply-To: mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com
Organization: Harris Semiconductor

I'm finally to the point of "gluing" the plastic windows onto
my Goldberg Cub and am looking for some hints on how to do this
without making a mess of it.  I know you can't use CA because the
fumes make the plastic milky (learned the hard way).

I'd really like to do a "professional" job, especially on the front
window where the plastic has to attach to the outside of the cabin.

How do you do it???  What kind of glue/epoxy/contact cement?


Thanks in advance,

Mark.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 03:51:34 EST
From: Sean Costella <SPC1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Need an engine.

A friend of mine who, (*gasp*) doesn't have internet access is looking for
a good engine, so, if any of you happen to have one and are looking to sell
it, let me know.

Engines:

OS Surpass FS-120 4-stroke
        or
Y-S 120 AC 4-stroke
        or
any 4-stroke, but the other two are preferred.



                                              Keep 'em in the air,
                                                           Shroom

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: fiberglass/composite construction info wanted
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 16:42:32 GMT

I'm a complete ignoramus about composite construction techniques, but I
want to learn. I've been looking at Higley's "There Are No Secrets" and
"Master Modelling" books, which seem to be an excellent source of basic
information about construction in general.

Can anyone recommend other good sources of information about this subject?
I'm soliciting references, advice, FAQ sheets, etc.

If items aren't too massive, consider posting to this group. I suspect
there are other readers like myself who could benefit.

Thanking you in advance,

Larry Cunningham
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                    | Larry E. Cunningham          |   
             ____                   | %Physical Science Laboratory |  _~~_
   |        | ___\          /~~~|   | New Mexico State University  | (O)(-)
  _:_______|/'(..)`\_______/  | |   | Las Cruces, NM USA 88003     |  /..\
 <_|``````  \__~~__/  USAF ___|_|   | larry@psl.nmsu.edu           |   ==
   :\_____(=========,(*),--\__|_/   |----------------------------------------
   |       \       /---'            |"Yeh, Buddy..                   
            | (*) /  Mustangs       | I've got your COMPUTER!        
            |____/   Forever        | Right HERE!!"           (computer THIS!)
____________________________________|________________________________________
Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, and all mine, not PSLs and not NMSUs..
Do NOT use the term FAT around me. I'm NOT fat. I'm gravitationally challenged.
From: U40348@uicvm.uic.edu (Jay Lorenzana)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Help on motors and speed controllers
Date: 6 Nov 92 06:26:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: uicvm.92311.002649U40348
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago

Dear Netters:

I am trying to drive a basic rc electric motor,
Kyosho 24 degree timing, 27 turn motor.

First of all:

Is this some kind of stepper motor?

How much countinous current can this motor take (aprox.)?

What is the 24 degree timing specification?

Do I have to be concerned with timing when designing
a speed controller?

I want to make someting SIMPLE, can I just use a variable
resistor for a speed controller?  Note, effeciancy is NOT
important.

Why are some speed controllers rated at 100+ amps continous?
I can't imagine an 8.4V Nicad package delivering this kind
of power.  I can see that 100+ amps can be present when the
motor is turned on and off.  What am I overlooking?

What does freq. have to do with speed controllers?  Do they
convert the 8.4vdc to xxx volt ac?  Therefore, can I drive
this motor with a direct dc source or must I convert?


Thanks for any help you can provide.  I am in a strange
university contest and am supplied with this motor.

-Jay
         Univeristy of Illinois
               at Chicago

                                   Internet: U40348@uicvm.uic.edu
                                   Bitnet  : U40348@uicvm.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: moskowit@panix.com (Len Moskowitz)
Subject: Re: fiberglass/composite construction info wanted
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:44:58 GMT
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <LARRY.92Nov12094232@peak.psl.nmsu.edu>
larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
writes:

>I'm a complete ignoramus about composite construction techniques, but I
>want to learn. I've been looking at Higley's "There Are No Secrets" and
>"Master Modelling" books, which seem to be an excellent source of basic
>information about construction in general.
>
>Can anyone recommend other good sources of information about this subject?
>I'm soliciting references, advice, FAQ sheets, etc.


There's a magazine for builders of full-sized (real!) airplanes called
"Kitplanes."  They regularly have features on composite building
techniques.  They also have ads from businesses that specialize in
selling composite products; they also sell how-to books.

Also try your local marine supply shop.  Boats are probably the
largest market for composite materials.


-- 
Len Moskowitz
moskowit@panix.com
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: What radio to get? (After 20 year absence)
Date: 5 Nov 92 08:21:22 CST
Distribution: na
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <1992Nov2.144112.25797@bnr.ca>, petera@bcars630.UUCP (Peter Ashwood-Smith) writes:
> |> It is amazing what the top of the line radios can do.  There was a 
> |> posting here
> |> about a year ago listing all of the features of a new such radio.
> |> 
>    I own a new Futaba SUPER 7 heli radio. I bought the heli 
> version because it comes with better servos and a higher 
> capacity battery pack and is supposed to be able to do all the 
>going to have the most fun with these kind of radios. Regular sport flyers 
>with perhaps flaps and retracts are not going to require most of the 
>features. Some of the features are actually not really a good idea 
> to use, for example control throws should be adjusted mechanically and 
> not digitally since you wind up using less than the servo's full 
> throw and hence get more slop and less leverage. The mixing is also 
> rather bizare because you never know what order things are mixed in. 
> This means that combining several things together is almost impossible. 
> I guess that if they had designed it with functions describing an 
> output they would have confused most of the potential customers but I for 
> one would have loved something like: 
>    
>     Ch1 = Ch7 ? .45*Ch6 : .95*ch6

Actually, I find most of the features on the Super 7 quite useful.  The 
electronic mixing is great for removing control surface coupling, and 
makes slow rolls and point rolls and knife edge flight a hell of a lot 
easier.  I just mix in some opposite aileron on the rudder to eliminate 
roll coupling.  I also just mix in some elevator to eliminate pitch 
coupling with the rudder.  Using Futaba lingo, the rudder is the Master 
channel and the aileron would be the slave channel - master tells the 
slave what to do and not vice versa.  Electronic trim setting is also 
a nice feature.  Before flying, my mechanical trim switches are always 
put back where I know they should be - right in the middle in the detent. 
As far as control throws, electronic adjustment allows you the luxury of 
having more throw in one direction than the other, and you can change 
things around easily at the field to see if you like more or less throw, 
exponential etc.
From: i001444@disc.dla.mil (james ogorek)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Radio Selection
Date: 6 Nov 92 14:23:46 GMT
Organization: Defense Industrial Supply Center, Philadelphia, Pa

Response to Ralph Finch request for Radio selection.

First off, If you have not contacted a local club or hobby shop
do so. They can be the best source of information as to what is popular
if any frequency is having problems from interference (might make ham  
frequency more attractive), what channels are heavily used, etc..

Most advertised brands today are good, some are more price oriented than
others. The most popular brands here in the Philadelphia area are Futaba
and Airtronics. Few Ace, World Expert, Tower and Hobby Shack private Labels.

When asked by new students in my club, I recommend 4 channel dual rate at a
minimum, with trainer cord capabilities (another good reason to contact local
club). If your interest is strong in returning to this great hobby, go for 
6 channel, never know when you might need bells and whistles. Won't get into
FM vs PCM depends on your $ investment.

Lastly welcome back.



Jim
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: davidla@ecs.comm.mot.com (David Lau)
Subject: U.S. Aircore Planes???
Organization: Motorola Inc.
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 15:03:58 GMT


	At the Chicago R/C Model show last weekend, I saw the line of planes 
by U.S. Aircore.  They have an interesting design, they're made of a 
corrugated plastic-like material, which you just fold and glue together.
They all have an interchangeable power module which holds your engine 
(40 size) and radio gear, and can be used in any of the U.S. Aircore planes.  
They also sell a set of floats which can be used on any of their planes.

The planes are supposed to be able to handle a lot of abuse, and from the
video I saw, they seem comparable to the Sturdy-bird and Duraplane, only a
lot more attractive.  They currently have a Bipe, sports plane, trainer, 
and a few others.  They're pretty reasonable priced through mail order
( $60 - $100 U.S.)

Does anyone have any experience with, or has heard anything about these
planes, all of my information comes from the manufacturer.  Specifically
I would like to know if they are as tough as they say, and how well they
fly (especially the trainer).


--------------
David Lau
davidla@ecs.comm.mot.com
Software Engineer, Independent Test Team
Motorola Inc. (Schaumburg, IL)
From: jbayer@ispi.COM (Jonathan Bayer)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Help, broken transmitter for Clover Turbo DiamondBack 49.860 Mhz
Date: 6 Nov 92 13:28:32 GMT
Organization: Intelligent Software Products, Inc.

mike@ra.cs.umb.edu (Michael J. Thibodeau) writes:

>If any one has a product made by Clover Toys Inc., specifically the turbo
>DiamondBack white 49.860MHz Could you please send me the 800 number for the
>service department so I can order a new transmitter.

Call 1-800-555-1212 for information.  If you know where it may be located
(state, etc) it would help.



>Thanks I am going crazy because where I work there is a wonderfully long hallway
>that is perfect for RC races.

Good Luck


JB
-- 
Jonathan Bayer		Intelligent Software Products, Inc.
(908) 248-1853		37 Winthrop Rd. 
jbayer@ispi.COM		Edison, NJ   08817
From: chrisd@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Chris Douglas)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 19:16:12 GMT
Subject: RC Stuff FOR SALE
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc


             All of the following is located in the
	     South SF Bay Area

FOR SALE:

Planes:
   60 size sport pattern plane.  Trike gear, fixed.  This
       plane is a modified Hammer 40.                       $60.00
   
   Falcon 56 trainer.  40 sized.  Built but never flown.    $60.00

   Fly Baby electric.  2 wings, stock and a modified one.   $30.00

   Ace Mach None.  Includes cox .049 engine.                $40.00

   Phantom kit.  This is not a jet.  It is a kit that can
       be built into a number of different planes.            
       Requires 40-60 engine                                $35.00

Engines:

   Fox 74 ring.  Only about 5 hours of run time.  Has 2
       mufflers (stock and incowel) and a perry pump.       $100.00

   Fox 25.  2 mufflers, stock and custom. execelent shape    $25.00

Motor:

   Hyperthrust .075 with gear reduction system.  has 3
       different gear ratios.                               $50.00

Car:  

   Bolink Elimator sport. New ball bearing in the rear, 
       new balls in the diff, new thrus bearing.  
       in great shape                                       $50.00
       with futaba magnum sport radio and futaba esc       $150.00

Contact chris douglas
day 408-447-2848
eve 408-249-4127

       
							    
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil)
Subject: Re: Winter Flying
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 92 23:50:32 GMT

The winters here in Ottawa are quite severe, so I know a little about winter
flying. I've flown both power and electric, and even caught some thermals
when it was -17C out! My hints are:

 - Charge your rx/tx packs before you go. They will be OK - just don't take
   10 flights like you would in the summer. This is no problem since for
   some reason, the colder it is the shorter your flying session will be!
 - Under about -10C (14F) expect to begin having difficulty keeping the
   engine running, especially at idle (doing stall turns, etc). It depends on
   your particular setup, but the power planes I have flown in the cold start
   having problems anywhere between -10C and -15C. The best solution I have
   found is on-board glow. This has worked much better than different heat
   plugs, higher nitro, and pure synthetic fuel which which I tried with no
   noticeable effect.
 - Mixture setting is different. The needle must be turned out slightly
   (richer) since air is thicker. At the same time you want to have a lean
   idle to keep the heat up.
 - Keep some WD-40 handy to help start those glow engines. You may even have
   to hand-flip if your field battery doesn't like the cold.
 - Use a transmitter muff! There's no excuse for needless suffering. In a
   pinch, a spare coat worn backwards might work. When closing the muff,
   KEEP YOUR THUMB ON THE THROTTLE so that the plane does not take off
   without you (part of the muff can knock the throttle).
 - When flying electric, keep the motor battery packs inside your coat and
   only take them out when you need them. Expect shorter flight times,
   especially if your pack is old. Snow is much more slippery than grass, so
   leave lots of sliding room for your landing. Plug up those forward air
   vents! I was too lazy once and had snow rammed throughout the fuselage of
   my electric glider (Elektro Uhu). Cooling is no problem.

That's all I can think of. I personally like winter flying alot. You have
endless, flat runways for low, low, "touch the ground" high speed passes;
there are no bugs; you don't have to wipe off your plane at the field since
the exhaust residue (and your Windex) is frozen solid; there is no chance
of getting a sunburn; and the frequency board is surprisingly empty!

So go for it. Skis are much easier to mount than floats, and you'll have
a sense of accomplishment that you couldn't get any other way.

Max
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" Peter Gabriel
From: robertw@informix.com (Robert Weinberg)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Aileron/Elevator mixers?
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:50:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: informix.1992Nov9.155002.14346
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

I'd like an electronic setup for aileron/elevator mixing, and there seem to be
2 solutions - either a new radio that has these features, or a box
that I can buy from Tower that mixes on the plane (at about $32).

Is there a fairly inexpensive 4-channel radio that includes mixing?
Is there a build-it-yourself solution to on-board mixing (cheap)? I want
to do it electronically, not mechanically. Maybe there is even a way to add the  
capability to my Futaba Attack-4 radio?

Thanks for any suggestions!

Rob
From: fisher@kay.enet.dec.com (kay::fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: re: flight simulator
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:17:14 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
X-Posted-Via: NEWS-NOTES gateway (a hack!)

>   <<< Note 304.3 by ::Dan Nebres "nebres@iftccu.boeing.com (Dan Nebres)" >>>
>                         -< Re: Heli flight simulator >-
,..
>This is probably the heli simulator - Areochopper by Ambrosia.  I am
>doing some beta testing on the PC model.  It's pretty nice since
>almost all the variables can be programmed in (ie. wind, pitch, transmitter
>gliches, etc.)  The transmitter is not a real helicopter transmitter, but
>it is made by Futaba and does look and feel like the real thing.  
>Ambrosia has had other models out for the Apple and the Amegia.  This is
>also an Airplane/glider simulator too.
>
>dan
>
>nebres@iftccu.boeing.com

Here is some wishful thinking.
Does the glider simulator have a winch?

Wouldn't you love to hold down the space bar and then watching the
wings bend.  Hold too long and POW!

Try zooms.

Adjust tow hook position and see how different the launch is.
Experiment with different amounts of trailing edge camber on each launch.

With a good winch simulation I could probably figure out what I keep doing
wrong without it costing a weeks repair time.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: What's World Scale Racing?
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:28:10 GMT

Does anyone know what MRC's World Scale Racing is?  I saw an ad for it on the
back cover of the October '92 issue of Radio Control Car Action.  E-mail or 
post.  Thanks, Dave.
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Winter Flying
Date: 11 Nov 92 16:36:22 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................

Slap some floats on and give it a try.  It's lot's of fun.  I use lighter fluid
(naptha) to help start a cold engine.  Squirt a little in the carb, prop it by hand
a couple of times, put the glow driver on and hit it with a starter.  I've done
this with both 2 strokes and 4 strokes.