HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ren@Turing.ORG (Karen Prestemon)
Subject: where to find clock parts?
Organization: The Turing Project, Public Access Internet Host
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 20:07:55 GMT


I don't want to make clocks from scratch, but I am interested in putting
together wall clocks using already-made mechanisms, and designing the
faces myself.  Anyone know of a catalog or store (in the DC area) that 
would sell the pieces?

--Karen P.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Silver solder removing
Organization: Random, at best
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:55:45 GMT


   Oh hey!  A new newsgroup!  Can I be the first poster?

   Here's a little trick: To remove silver solder when you can't
produce enough heat (or when heating the object too high will cause
problems), add regular tin-lead or lead-free solder to the bond.  The
tin-lead solder will alloy with the silver solder and the melting
temperature of the entire mass will be much lower than that of silver
solder alone.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: wwebster@bnr.ca (Bill Webster)
Subject: Need book on different metals
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:39:39 GMT

Ah.  Just the new newsgroup I've been waiting for.
I'm looking for a book(s) that describe the different 
metal characteristics.  I know there are lots of
different types of aluminum, brass, copper, steel, etc.
I'd like to find a book which lists the metal numbers,
like T6062 (or whatever) and give a description of
its attributes.

Does any such book(s) exist?

I fly the gas powered model airplanes and make various
parts for the motors.  But since I don't know what types
of metal I should be using for example the piston,
I simply buy an existing piston and modify it.  But
I can't always get what I need this way.  Even if I
do find out the metal type to use, where would I get
some of the exotic materials?

Any help would be most appreciated.


Bill Webster (WWEBSTER@BNR.CA)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: caastanl@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Alan Stanley)
Subject: Re: Oriental Gong from Sheet Steel
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:44:17 GMT


I'm going to try this again, the Newsreader program here eats paragraphs. 
This is what I tried to enter for the last message.  Wish me luck.

I've never had to make a gong, but I regularly make smaller items of the        
shape you describe, so the principles should be the same.  Work slowly and      
carefully.  When the edges start to scallop a bit you can work them back        
down, upsetting the steel a bit as you go.  Its the same technique,             
essentially as shrinking a steel wagon tire.  A lot of books recommend          
pounding the steel down over (or into) a wooden mold, but I prefer working
 into sand and dressing the edges on my anvil.                                             

You may have to periodically anneal the metal, but with mild steel this         
usually isn't much of an issue.  When your gong is finished you'd probably      
get a better tone if you heated the whole thing up to a dull cherry red and     
quenched it in water.  You don't get a lot of hardening from mild steel, but    
you get enough to change the tone.  I make hundreds of ringing triangles        
every year and I find I get a much cleaner tone by heating all the corners      
and quenching.  (I bend them cold so the process isn't automatically part of    
the fabrication process.)
                                                       


Let us all know how your project turns out.                                     

Alan Stanley, Queens County Blacksmith Shop

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: chuckh@apex.com (Chuck Huffington)
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Keywords: tin, copper, brass, pan
Organization: Apex Computer Company
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 18:25:41 GMT

In article <C03Gps.M2r@world.std.com> moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) writes:
>There is a chemical available at electronics stores intended to plate copper
>printed circuit boards with tin.  Should work with a pan.
>
>-Mike
>

I would be very careful of this.  It's more likely that it tins the board.
Which is coating it with solder.  A lead/tin plate is not desirable
for a pan.
From: vporguen@unlinfo.unl.edu (victor porguen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: A lathe question for wily old machinists
Date: 2 Jan 1993 05:02:57 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo.unl.edu
Keywords: lathe, machinist

donp@mail.boi.hp.com (Don Peterson) writes:


>I have a 12" Clausing lathe that I've used over the last 20 years
>as a hobbyist machinist.  The lathe's bed is worn near the
>headstock and thus the cutting tool can dip 0.003 inches or so, so
>I wind up with a slightly convex surface when I try to turn a
>perfect cylinder (the tailstock is properly adjusted).

After 20 yaers of use, it would be worn.

>Is there any expedient way to effectively get rid of this wear
>_without_ grinding or scraping the ways?  I'm looking for a trick
>that a busy machine shop would use when they couldn't afford the
>time to scrape or grind the ways.


No. If the bedways are worn, they must be remachined.   Small high 
spots, etc. can be "scraped" but major wear of the kind you describe
require disassembly, remachining and reassembly/realignment.

A "busy machine shop" keeps its machines in good shape by inspecting 
and servicing them as necessary, or it runs the risk of soon becoming
a non-busy machine shop... <g>
From: purtilo@cs.umd.edu (Jim Purtilo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cheap source for Air hardening tool steel
Date: 22 Dec 92 01:56:33 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <BzMu0K.Kzz@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu writes:
>I need a source for 7/8" air hardening tool steel.
>The best price I've found is about $60/3' lengths,
>which is _way_ too expensive.
>
>Any suggestions?

You don't give width -- but that cost sounds like a bargin compared to the
cost for 7/8" x 7/8" x 36" air hardening stock found in my '89 MSC catalog,
which would be like $82.  Dunno what is the current going rate there, but
they are at 800 645 7270.
From: vporguen@unlinfo.unl.edu (victor porguen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Question about this Newsgroup
Date: 31 Dec 1992 03:45:22 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo.unl.edu

Hi - just a quick question: how long has this newsgroup
been in existence? I only started to get it a few days
ago and am wondering - is it a new newsgroup?

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: How to tin-coat a Copper or Brass pan
Keywords: tin, copper, brass, pan
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 22:49:04 GMT

There is a chemical available at electronics stores intended to plate copper
printed circuit boards with tin.  Should work with a pan.

-Mike

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: cheech@med.unc.edu (cheech@ocean.med.unc.edu (Greg Young))
Subject: Re: Cheap source for Air hardening tool steel
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 22:06:19 GMT

In article <BzoH8r.2M6@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu writes:
>
>	Could you get me a phone number for KBC? I tried to send
>	email but it bounced. If ayone else knows of places in the chicago area
>	that would have that kind of stuff, I'm dying to know. Most
>	of the places one finds in the yellow pages are not really
>	oriented to machine shop supply. 

For the Chicago area, try McMaster-Carr.  Their sales desk is
(312) 833-0300.  I've always had good service, they have no minimum
order, and ship instantly.  Most orders arrive in two days.  Their
snail address is:

McMaster-Carr
P.O. Box 4355
Chicago, IL 60680-4355

They list oil-hardening 7/8" drill rod at $21.05/3', water-hardening
at $14.05.  They don't list air-hardening rounds, but my catalog is
a couple of years old so you might ask. 

Greg


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: stuartf@sequent.com (Stuart Friedberg)
Subject: Re: Parts for Sherline Lathe
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 01:50:10 GMT

In article <92364.191549JCEHC@CUNYVM.BITNET> <JCEHC@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
> I have a miniature Sherline lathe, that I bought second hand.  I
> would like to use it more except it needs some part. [...] Does
> anybody know of any parts suppliers for this Sherline metal cutting
> lathe? [...] an upgrade kit enabling the lathe to cut screw threads.
> This is something else I would like to get

I am about to post a message about some favorite mail order suppliers
of mine.  Blue Ridge Machinery is one, and they have parts and
accessories for Sherline, and Emco Maier Unimats of various sizes.

Watch for the message.

Stu Friedberg (stuartf@sequent.com)
From: markf@cs.tamu.edu (Mark A Fleming)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Parts for Sherline Lathe
Date: 30 Dec 1992 22:25:29 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department, Texas A&M University
NNTP-Posting-Host: neuron.tamu.edu

Try writing or calling the manufacturer directly.  They can send you a free
catalog of parts and accessories.  Their address is

	Sherline Products Inc.
	170 Navajo Street
	San Marcos CA 92069

	FAX (619) 744-1574
	(619) 744-3674 (Inside Calif)
	(800) 541-0735

BTW, I started out with a 5" Enco, and though small machines are limited,
they really encourage careful setup and work habits.

maf
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ibe@world.std.com (ira b ekhaus)
Subject: information on watch making
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 04:44:55 GMT

hi,

Does anyone have any sources of  information for the art (science?) of 
watchmaking?
Especially mechanism  design and  a description of the various tools
and their uses.

thanks,
ira
ibe@world.std.com
From: brindley@maxwell.ECE.ORST.EDU (Mike Brindley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: American Society for Metals address/phone number?
Keywords: handbooks, metals, address
Date: 30 Dec 92 07:23:51 GMT
Organization: Society for Putting Things on Top of Other Things
NNTP-Posting-Host: maxwell.ece.orst.edu
Originator: brindley@maxwell.ECE.ORST.EDU

Does anyone have an address and/or phone number for the American
Society for Metals?  They are the publishers of the 'Metals Handbook'
series.  


-- 
--> Mike Brindley
    brindley@ece.orst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini)
Subject: Re: Cheap source for Air hardening tool steel
Reply-To: cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:24:59 GMT

In article <BzMu0K.Kzz@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini) writes:
>I need a source for 7/8" air hardening tool steel.
>The best price I've found is about $60/3' lengths,
>which is _way_ too expensive.
>

	ok, let me try this one again, with a little more information:
	I don't know what grade of tool steel I need, I was told
	that 'air hardened tool steel' was what I needed for the task.
	I'm trying to build some swaging dies that need to be able
	to swage antimoinal lead, ~25Brinell. I 've been told that the
	static pressures are about 50Kpsi. The other detail I omitted
	is that what I need is 7/8" _round_ stock. 

-Chris
*1110 W. Green/Urbana IL 61801/217-333-0505/cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu 
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.metalworking:74 rec.crafts.misc:946
From: forbesm@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (Mark Forbes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Stained Glass
Date: 25 Dec 92 00:07:59 GMT
Organization: OSU CS Outreach Services, Corvallis, Oregon
NNTP-Posting-Host: atlantis.cs.orst.edu

Try a stained glass shop. We have two, even here in tiny little
Corvallis, Oregon. There are also mail order places that you
can get stuff from, but I don't have the names handy, since
everything I need is right down the street.
Mark G. Forbes | forbesm@atlantis.cs.orst.edu
Corvallis, OR  | 503 757 8416 work phone    | Hardware R & D
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Subject: Re: Tip for a tight fit
Organization: Random, at best
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 23:09:28 GMT

jonesm@nic.cerf.net (Matthew Jones) writes:
>
>In the current project: the connecting rod fits too tight on the crankshaft.
>So I was looking for a way to grind the two parts to a better fit. 
>I found "valve grinding compound". The stuff works great really fast though.
>I think it would be too course for a cylinder, though.
>Available at auto parts and hardware stores $2-3.

   I hope you're grinding the connecting rod and not the crankshaft :-).
BTW, are you sure you have the right cap for the rod?  They fit really
tightly if you accidentally switch two caps.

   I spun a couple bearings on my jeep, which tore up both the crank
and the rods.  The machinist explained to me that the connecting rods
and caps wear lengthwise, not round.  He machined the faces down a
little, then machined the rod end and cap round again.  That was many
thousand miles ago.


   (Isn't it amazing how much more traffic a newsgroup gets when it
gets out of the 'trial' heirarchy?)

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.crafts.misc
From: dsoconne@quads.uchicago.edu (Daniel S OConnell)
Subject: Stained Glass
Reply-To: dsoconne@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 01:40:53 GMT

I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get a book (or periodical
for that matter) on making stained glass.

I've checked in a few art stores and a few `mainstream' bookstores
but have been unable to find anything or anyone who knows anything
about this.

I'm interesting in making some stained glass and don't really 
know anything. I understand there is some place where one can
`do' stained glass in the Chicago suburbs, but that's about
it.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Daniel O'Connell
<dsoconne@midway.uchicago.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann)
Subject: Re: Silver solder removing
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Date: 22 Dec 92 07:29:36 GMT

okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick) writes:

>   Here's a little trick: To remove silver solder when you can't
>produce enough heat (or when heating the object too high will cause
>problems), add regular tin-lead or lead-free solder to the bond.  The
>tin-lead solder will alloy with the silver solder and the melting
>temperature of the entire mass will be much lower than that of silver
>solder alone
.
Here's something else - to remove soft solder from a piece (I make gold
and silver jewelry) you can just dip the whole piece in muriatic acid.
If anyone knows of a solution that will remove hard solder, I would love
to hear about it.  I hate to junk a piece because of a crummy solder
job.

Samantha (I use someone else's account) 
.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: caastanl@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Alan Stanley)
Subject: Power Hammers
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:05:23 GMT

   
   
   
I have a 50 lb Canadian Giant power hammer, which is an exact replica of the
ubiquitous Little Giant. The clutch is covered with what looks to be a
heavily tarred canvas belt, which is slowly wearing away to nothing.  It's
an arrangment I have never seen before and may have been jury rigged by one
of its many previous owners.

What I need to know is this - Is this a standard arrangement and how is the
belting secured to the metal underneath.  There are what appear to be the
heads of several copper rivets protruding through the worn belting, but
these on their own would not be enough to properly secure the canvas.  If
anyone has any experience with this type of clutch I'd be intereseted in any
insights they might have.

By way of a complete change of topic, I'd also like to know if anyone has
any reliable sources of blacksmithing supplies other than Centaur Forge. 
Centaur has pretty good inventory but their prices are high and they seem to
cater more to farriers than  strict blacksmiths.



Alan Stanley,  Queens County Blacksmith Shop

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: John E Salter <salter@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Catalog for motors, gears, pulleys
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 23:19:27 GMT
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11]


What is a source for ordering motors, gears and pulley's?

Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: rogerm@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE (Roger Mitchell)
Subject: Re: Watch making
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 16:10:46 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking published a very good training
manual and Henry B Fried published the Watch Repairer's Manual which also
goes into good detail on the subject. New tools are very expensive but
you can purchase used tools sometimes from retiring watchmakers or 
jewelers that are going out of business for a reasonable price. I don't
know if he is still in business, but I purchased most of my tools used
at a watchmakers supply in Boston called Henry Kamlot in the Jewelers 
Building.

				Roger Mitchell
				Amateur Watch Maker and Collector
				Master Mechanic: Ft. Collins Municipal Railway
From: jonesm@nic.cerf.net (Matthew Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need book on different metals
Date: 23 Dec 1992 16:10:01 GMT
Organization: CERFnet Dial n' CERF Customer Group
NNTP-Posting-Host: nic.cerf.net

In article <1992Dec22.203015.19688@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU> jmorton@euler.Berkeley.EDU (John Morton) writes:
>In article <wwebster-221292123630@47.220.4.59> wwebster@bnr.ca (Bill Webster) writes:
>
>For publications which take the slant of doing it at home, look for
>British books and pamphlets, e.g. MAP (Model & Allied Publications).
>
>John Morton					University of California
>jmorton@euler.berkeley.edu			Mechanical Engineering
>{decvax,cbosgd}!ucbvax!euler!jmorton		Machine Shop

I've heard of this place, and would like to get their catalog,
do you have their address.

Matthew Jones
jonesm@cerf.net


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: akarpowicz@mta.ca (Adam Karpowicz)
Subject: Re: Green copper
Reply-To: akarpowicz@mta.ca
Organization: Mount Allison U, Sackville, N.B. Canada 
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1992 13:32:48 GMT

In article <1992Dec24.032431.4609@u.washington.edu>, whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
>In article <1hal1oINNgur@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> Eric Kasten writes:
>>Ok, here's a question for you folks.  Sometimes on copper metal	
>>sculptures you'll find a finish which is sort of a rough green
>>substance (maybe somesort of copper oxide?)  
>

The copper metal sculptures are actually cast bronze (mainly copper+
tin,etc). In a book "The colouring, bronzing and patination of metals"
by Richard Hughes and Michael Rowe, published by Crafts Council, 1982,
U.K.(ISBN 0 903798 60 3), one of the recipes for cast bronze patination
is:
make a solution ofcopper nitrate+water+ammoni0.880 + aceti?)+acetic
acid(6%sol)+ammonium chlori in 1:1:4:4:1 proportions by weig and
dab on with a soft cloth over a period of five days, rubbing with a
dry cloth after each application to remove loose deposits. This gives
a green patina.
The book emphasizes thorough cleaning/sanding/degreasing before patination.

Never tried it, hope it helps

Adam
From: hes@ncsu.edu (Henry E. Schaffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: a machinist's joke
Date: 2 Jan 93 01:59:31 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University
Originator: hes@sparcler.cc.ncsu.edu

Found in rec.humor.funny:
|Message-ID: <S4cf.6b09@looking.on.ca>
|From: druid@inuxy.att.com
|Subject: MIL-specs
|Keywords: smirk

A friend introduced me to the spec he tells his machine shop to use:

   MIL-TD41 (make it like the f*&%ing drawing for once).

--

--henry schaffer  n c state univ
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ara@wam.umd.edu (Ford Prefect)
Subject: Whats better for making blades ?
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 15:35:53 GMT

First I would like to thank all those that replied to my questions
about firepots and what to make a cheap forge out of (all the replys were
regarding the later I still dont know what the firepot does :-)

anyway, a few recomended I go the Gas forge way.  Let me explain what Im doing
and perhaps you can tell me what is the way to go.  Im totaly new to forges,
so far I have been working metals cold, I make Medieval helmets from viking
helmets to full fledged 14th century Great Helms.  This stuff is actualy used
by my weird associates (errhhrrmmm).  So lately, I decided to make more
complicated stuff like pieces of armour and maybe even actual swords and
spear heads, etc etc.  The armour requires constant anealing and weapons
ofcourse require heat.  A propane torch workd for small pieces of armour
(very small pieces btw) and its useless for any type of blade except for
small 1 or 2 inch stuff.

So the question is, as the title states, which is better for blades,
coal or gas, which is cheaper to maintain, and keep refuled, which is safer,
I dont think the neighbors will appreciate the beauty of an exploding gas
tank as much as I will. Does coal smell too much at first ?

-ara
"I saw a forge once, at a farm, it was 5 feet in diameter."

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: cstone@nodecg.ncc.telecomwa.oz.au (Charlie Stone 4915162)
Subject: Re: Need book on different metals
Organization: Network Computer Centre, Telecom, Perth
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 04:45:16 GMT

In article <wwebster-221292123630@47.220.4.59> wwebster@bnr.ca (Bill Webster) writes:
>I'm looking for a book(s) that describe the different 
>metal characteristics.  I know there are lots of
>different types of aluminum, brass, copper, steel, etc.
>I'd like to find a book which lists the metal numbers,
>like T6062 (or whatever) and give a description of
>its attributes.


>I fly the gas powered model airplanes and make various
>parts for the motors.  But since I don't know what types
>of metal I should be using for example the piston,
>I simply buy an existing piston and modify it.  But
>I can't always get what I need this way.  Even if I
>do find out the metal type to use, where would I get
>some of the exotic materials?

Great !!  Someone interested in I/C engine building.  You might be able 
to find books like `Metals in the Service of Man' that talk about the
different metals in a general sort of way, but for specialist alloy codes
you would be better off with data sheets from the manufacturers.  That will
tell you about the composition of the alloys, but probably wont tell you
if the material is suited for the application that you have in mind, like
pistons for glow motors etc.  There is a specialist publication printed
in the US called `Strictly IC' and is all about home building of 
Internal Combustion engines.  I haven't seen a copy myself and cant 
quote an address.  Perhaps someone on the net can give details.

As for piston materials, generally if the engine has a steel liner, the
piston is made of cast iron.  If it is an alloy piston in a steel liner
(probably ringed) then something like Y alloy is used.  If it is AAC
or ABC there are special alloys made by the German company Mahle (SP?).
I have the alloy numbers at home for the Mahle alloys used for AAC and 
could post or Email it if needed.

There are other points to know here too like about bore tapers (to
use or not to use) and honing or lapping cylinders.

For conrods in Model aircraft engines use 2024 or 7075 (better). These 
alloy numbers are the standard code used by US aluminium manufacturers.

I would think that you might get a fairly fast response to your
questions by just posing them to the net as you have done here.

Are there any other builders/modifiers of model aircraft engines
out there?  Lets hear from you.

Charlie Stone.
(Control line nut and retired Glider pilot)
cstone@nodecg.ncc.telecomwa.oz.au