HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: '84 MB 190E Oil Pressure?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:45:31 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.162606.7966@henson.cc.wwu.edu> n8743722@henson.cc.wwu.edu (delorm david) writes:
>henryng@tellabs.com (Henry Ng) writes:
>
>>In article <17710@pitt.UUCP> sherman@michael.nmr.upmc.edu (Sherman Uitzetter) writes:
>>>
>>>   I have a newly acquired 1984 Mercedes 190E and a small
>>>(I hope) question.  After the engine warms up and the
>>>idle speed returns to normal the oil pressure drops when
>>>idling.  The pressure increases again immediately when
>>>the rpm gets to about 900.
>
>>I drive an 86 Vette which has the same scenario. When the car is fully
>>warm, sitting in traffic at idle. The oil pressure meter drops as well.
>>I saw it went down to as low as 23 psi and when you accelerate, it goes
>>back up.
>
>Sounds to me like what is happening in these cases is that the oil pump
>is unable to provide enough volume at idle to keep the presure up.  When
>RPM increase pump volume goes up and presure stabilizes.  I think this

Hold on. Think about it a second. The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft
in some fashion, often times off the distributor. That means the speed of
the oil pump will vary with the engine rpms. When it's idling, the pump's
turning slowly, so it doesn't have much output. So the pressure drops. It
rises with rpm until it reaches a given pressure, when a relief valve opens
to limit the pressure. So, pressure fluctuations are normal.

When an engine is worn, the pressure will drop to nearly zero at idle. But
a 23 psi at idle, and 40-60 pounds at speed is the sign of a very healthy
engine.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Cummins
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 23:19:01 GMT

In article <BzH0zJ.2rL@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:

>From: jskean@unlinfo.unl.edu (jonathan skean)

	I wrote:
>>>> . . .  359cid of Cummins produces 400lb-ft of
>>>> torque at 1700rpm, pulls 11,400lbs of trailer *and* delivers 20mpg.

>>    I'll give you "pulls trailer" *OR* "20mpg".  "And"?  Very doubtful.

ummm, you'd best be careful what you doubt... running empty on the Governor
Thomas E. Dewey Thruway (I-90) in NY, at 2000rpm (equates to just about 70mph)
I get just under 28mpg in a 1990 Cummins-powered Dodge W350 (1-ton, 4x4).
Given a steady-state cruise, 20mpg loaded is a conservative estimate.  H*ll, in
*city* driving I never get less than 19mpg.  Face it, the Cummins-powered Dodge
is simply the *ultimate* load-hauler...  In NY, people routinely pull 20000lb
'hotshot' trailers and get 15+mpg while doing so with Cummins-powered Dodges. 

>People pulling 10k pound 5th wheel trailers get 15MPG.  Running
>65 empty you can get 24 MPG.  Interpolate as seems appropriate.

actually, with 3.55:1 rearend, I get closer to 28... :-)

>>>	Aren't diesel engines more durable than gas engines?   

>>    The Cummins/Dodge is great if you can afford it.

'if you can afford it'?!?!?  I paid 18500 for mine *delivered* in Sep 1989.
there are suckers out there that pay several thousand more than that for a
pissant little TOYota something-or-other...  *plus* the Cummins-powered Dodge
will have three times the lifespan while doing three times the work (okay,
'kneejerk' capabilities exageration... but, you can't get a better work-truck
*at any price*).

>Recent comparison:

>1992 Ford F150 4X4, 302 V8, 5-spd, fully loaded: $19.2k

an F150 is pretty pissant, btw...
especially with a 302 gas-pig

>1992 Dodge W250 4X4, Cummins, 5-spd, fully loaded: $21.0k
>(both plus tax & registration)

>The Dodge Cummins 4X4 option costs about $4-5K, but that also includes:
>- a heavier duty transmission
>- upgrade of both differentials 
>- front sway bar

mine didn't... I'm _bummed_

>- engine heater
>- a cooling package which exceeds on all counts the "towing package"
>- Michelin XCH4 load range E tires (5)
   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
in upstate NY, these have got to be the worst tires... <25000miles life *and*
poor traction...

Cummins delivers --

>-mileage twice that of a gas engine with similar specs (the truck 454)
>-700+ miles of range
>-great low end torque
>-well behaved at high altitide
>
>Dan Hepner

Walt K.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Timing Belt on Civic Si.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 14:31:34 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

Greetings,

Does anyone know how much damage will be inflicted if the timing belt breaks
on an 87 Honda Civic Si while the car is running at speed (55mph)?  I know
that some cars will have severe damage (Porsche 944's) but others will not.
 
Anyone an authority on this issue? 

Kevin 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kevin Jones                                   KPJONE01@ULKYVX.CT.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Lab Supervisor                                KPJONE01@ULKYVX.LOUISVILLE.EDU
Computing and Telecommunications              PHONE:  502-588-6303
University of Louisville, KY                  FAX:    502-588-0150

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: tranny problems
Date: 15 Dec 92 00:08:06 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <1992Dec14.204622.7212@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
>Subject: Re: tranny problems
>Date: 14 Dec 92 20:46:22 GMT


> A disconnected vacuum modulator line seems to act to make upshifts happen
>sooner, though that goes against logic. I know I've had lines come off and
>the trans would basically shift right away, so I'd be in third by 20MPH.
>Reconnecting it made things shift later.

> GM TH400 automatics have used electrical kickdowns since the late '60s at
>least. There is no kickdown linkage, just a switch on the gas pedal.

Is it always on the gas pedal?  Is there another way to do this?  I have
a conversion that is running a Turbo 400 and I'm pretty sure there is no
kickdown at all.  Sometimes the vacuum will cause a down shift, but not 
really very often

>-- 
>##########################################################################
>#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
>#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
>#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
 ----------------------!!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!-------------------
 ObQuotes:
 "Igornance and prejudice, confident their ways are best..."
 "Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand..."

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    Visit the SOUNDING BOARD BBS 214-596-2915, a Wildcat! BBS
From: avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Leaking seals in master cylinder - easy solution?
Date: 15 Dec 92 00:01:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu

In my Ford, *very* slow and smooth braking triggers the
"brake failure" alarm, while a good kick doesn't and even 
restores the system to normal. Apparently, it is a leaking
rubber seal in the master cylinder.  Does anyone know about 
any stuff I can add to the brake fluid to soften the seals 
and stop the leak?
I used such thing for power steering, and it helped.

-- 
Tony Konashenok   avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu   (510)843-5632 (home)
University of California, Berkeley                 (510)642-5831 (office)

Strauss research group, Latimer Hall, UC Berkeley, Berkeley CA 94720, U.S.A.
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Extending engine life--Block heaters (was Re: Oil Priming System)
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:16:37 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <1gl1flINN8gd@fmsrl5.srl.ford.com> tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
>From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
>Subject: Re: Extending engine life--Block heaters (was Re: Oil Priming System)
>Date: 15 Dec 92 16:34:56 GMT

>Dylan McNamee (dylan@cs.washington.edu) wrote:
>: 
>: The first simpler solution I can think of is to add an engine-block heater, 
>: and to always use it when it's really cold.  Apparently most engine wear
>: happens during cold starts, and the wear is worse the colder it gets.

>My boss swears by these.  He has his hooked up to a timer on the
>electrical outlet, so it only heats up the engine for two hours
>before he leaves for work.  His calculations indicate that
>during the winter, fuel economy savings alone more than pay for
>the electricity.  Plus, he gets improved engine life, instant
>heating and defrosting, easier starting, and fewer exhaust
>emissions.

>I'm convinced.  Now I need to install electricity in my garage!

>Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>

I'm always afraid one of these will malfunction and set fire to the oil on 
my block.
 ----------------------!!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!-------------------
 ObQuotes:
 "Igornance and prejudice, confident their ways are best..."
 "Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand..."

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    Visit the SOUNDING BOARD BBS 214-596-2915, a Wildcat! BBS
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Distributer Swapping...
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Dec 92 13:22:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Does anyone know if a small block HEI distributer will fit in a big
-> block?

 They are identical and interchangeable.
                                                                                                   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Subject: Re: Electromotive Inc.: STAY AWAY
Keywords: Engine management
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:47:41 GMT

In article <94_ra+#@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
>
>>Maybe I am out of line.  But I spent $1100 for a product that did not
>>work, the manufacturer gave no useful assistance in getting it to work,
>>and they wouldn't take the product back, and feel that I owe them
>>something in return.
>
>I can understand that feeling.  I just don't think it is 100% fair to
>brand the whole product line because of one bad experience.  *WOW*,
>$1100 for just the ignition?  They nicked you full retail at least.
>*WOW*
>
>John

No, it isn't fair, but it made me feel a little bit better.
They did give us a discount on the price of the hardware, but charged
us full price for their ridiculous software license fee.


-- 
-=<   Jon Lusky ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu   >=-- 
   \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
    \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
     \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
      \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi (Henri R Helanto)
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Date: 17 Dec 92 02:54:38 GMT

In <2335@shaman.wv.tek.com> harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer) writes:

>Given that those who vote with their tool kits, or wallets, have pulled 
>more Jag engines and replaced them with chev, suggests that Jag V12 
>powered Corvettes are a distinct rarity.

	The big problems with Jag V12 are:
	1. Non-existent reliability. My mother has had a XJS V12 for
	   18 months now and they have already changed the whole
	   ignition system and most of the fuel injection system.
	   TWICE!  (isn't really a problem with old Jags without
	   computer or EFI).
	2. Absence of _good_ tune-up parts. There isn't factory
	   made cylinder heads (well, outrageously expensive
	   XJR-S Cosworth heads), decent intake plenum, complete
	   bolt-on blower kits, headers or just about anything.

	...But I still love that V12 and asking Vette drivers
	where they have lost four cylinders... ;-)
	(Yep, my mother bitches me about it all the time :-( ).

-Henri
-- 
Henri Helanto - SysOp
hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi m40176m@puukko.hut.fi
Call MyBBS (+358-0-485067/485068/485968/485918/488139, 24h) !
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Subject: Re: '84 MB 190E Oil Pressure?
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 20:48:31 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.162606.7966@henson.cc.wwu.edu> n8743722@henson.cc.wwu.edu (delorm david) writes:
>henryng@tellabs.com (Henry Ng) writes:
>
>>In article <17710@pitt.UUCP> sherman@michael.nmr.upmc.edu (Sherman Uitzetter) writes:
>>>
>>>   I have a newly acquired 1984 Mercedes 190E and a small
>>>(I hope) question.  After the engine warms up and the
>>>idle speed returns to normal the oil pressure drops when
>>>idling.  The pressure increases again immediately when
>>>the rpm gets to about 900.

This is totally normal, all cars do this, they are supposed to do this,
don't worry about it unless it gets really low.  See your owners manual
for the proper operating range.  

>>I drive an 86 Vette which has the same scenario. When the car is fully
>>warm, sitting in traffic at idle. The oil pressure meter drops as well.
>>I saw it went down to as low as 23 psi and when you accelerate, it goes
>>back up.

23psi at idle is fine for a smallblock chevy.  23psi at 5000rpm is not.

>Sounds to me like what is happening in these cases is that the oil pump
>is unable to provide enough volume at idle to keep the presure up.  When
>RPM increase pump volume goes up and presure stabilizes.  I think this
>can be in part due to wear.  For example as the main and connecting rod

Oil pressure increasing as engine RPM increases (up to a certain RPM
where the pressure gets to a preset limit) means that the oil pump is
working just fine.  Major engine wear (in the case of small block chevies,
most likely the cam bearings) will show up as very low idle oil pressure.
23 psi at idle is fine for almost any "stock" engine, tho.


-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: 79 Fairmont s/w - can bushings/ball joints be replaced?
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 19:40:50 EST

In article <168B9D0EB.DHBHM@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu> DHBHM@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu (Bruce H. McIntosh) writes:
>I have a 79 Fairmont wagon with >153,000 miles on it (miraculous, huh? :-) )
>The ball joints and most of the suspension bushings have had it.  Both the
>local Ford extortionist, er, dealer :-) and the Chilton and Haines fix-it
>books say that the ball joints and bushings cannot be replaced; the entire
>lower arm assembly must be replaced.  However, the chaps down at Pep Boys
>tell me that the bushings and ball joints *can* be replaced, and that they
>stock said items.  What's the real scoop here?  Can they be replaced or not?
>If so, what out-of-the-ordinary tools will I need?  (I'd imagine a press of
>some kind, and maybe a slide hammer to get the old ones out of the arms.)
>
   I've R&R's ball joints on a 79 Mustang (same thing...), and I have 
also pulled the arm to change the springs.  Therefore, the answer is
yes, you can do both.   
   The ball joint is not the bad one to replace; the arm does not need
removal. The bushings are, however alot of time and work to change 
unless you have access to a press.  

   Are you SURE the bushings are shot?  The Mustang I did the springs
on had like ~160k miles, mostly city, mostly abuse.  The bushings were
replaced with poly (don't do this... they squeak like a bitch!) for
better performance, but the old rubber ones were fine.

> 
>On a related issue, is it a better idea to rebuild or replace the rear brake
>cylinders?  Just curious on this one.

  I usualally just go buy the rebuild kit if I have the time/will to 
rebuild the little suckers.  Usually, however, the price difference
for kit and for a rebuilt cylinder is only like 5 bucks.  Might as 
well just buy the rebuilts.
 
>Bruce H. McIntosh    brucem@neufhou.mail.ufl.edu            Jesus has risen!
>                     bhm@cis.ufl.edu
>                     dhbhm@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu
> UF Housing user support on IBM Aggravation System/400 :-)
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>OBSOLETE (n.) - dependable, reliable, inexpensive and readily available
>Support trailing-edge technology!

________________________________________________________________________
\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
\                                                                      /
/ The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- \
\______________________________________________________________________/    
    

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: brake bleeding tools from JC Whitney
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 20:33:03 GMT

In article <9212082230.AA26298@magnusug.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Steven J Orlin <sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> writes:
>In article <1992Dec8.210202.18536@adobe.com> you write:
>>I saw that JC Whitney sells brake bleeding tools. Are these
>>reasonable quality? I haven't seen such tools in the local
>>Grand Auto/Kragen stores although I haven't really looked
>>that hard. I hate those places because things are hard to
>>find and just paying for your purchase takes too long.
>>Mail order looks pretty attractive for this reason.
>>
>>--
>>My opinions are my own.
>>
>
>I have been pleased with many things I have bought from JC Whitney; however,
>I would never buy tools from them----unless they were a 'one use in a lifetime'
>tool and I couldn't find it any where else.
>
>Besides, look at the prices in JC Whitney, and then go look in a store.
>somethings wrong here.


	It helps to be in chicago and be able to visit their store.
Their tools, like their parts, are a crapshoot at best.  Although
their catalogs don't mention it, their suspension stuff is AADCO
($18 for a sway bar link kit that comes with rubber and urethane bushings,
pre-load springs and two different sized rods!), they sell the Weber
32/36 downdraft carb as a "progressive two barrel", even Kaimae Air dams.
As far as tools go, a friend of mine bought a beautiful pair of safety
wire pliars for $26 (same manufacturer as some catalog tool places
sell for $60).

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Weird problem.  Need doctors advice!
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:14:19 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

slhmz@cc.usu.edu wrote:
: I have a Fuel Injected '87 Pontiac and am having a very strange problem.
: On cold cold mornings (-30 to 20 F) my cars starts up beautifully.  If
: I start going, it slips into gear seemlessly and takes off wonderfully.
: 
: Now, as soon as the engine warms up to "normal running temperature" I
: get extremely poor preformance and frequent stalling.

Very interesting problem, especially if your computer is active and 
operational.  It sounds like when your computer goes into closed-loop
mode, then that's when your performance goes out the window.  I would
guess something with your air-mass sensing and fuel delivery but your
computer should pick up a problem there and turn on your CHECK ENGINE
light.  Keep us posted if you figure it out!

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Subject: Re: tranny problems
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 00:31:08 GMT

In article <101777@netnews.upenn.edu> george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:
>
>gm stopped using cables in ~1974 ( anyone know why?, i like'd 'em )
>This car will have a vacuum operated kick down, but i dont see
>why a problem with that would cause early upshifting.
>--
>  /   george jefferson
>\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu

On which transmissions?  The trans in my sister's 82 Cutlass (260V8, no idea
which tranny) had a TV (throttle valve) cable, the 85 Vette 700R4 in my lab
has a TV cable, the 91 truck 4L60 has a TV cable, too.  A TV cable that is too
loose (but not disconnected) will cause early upshifting.  However, a broken
TV cable will cause late, hard shifts (to prevent transmission damage).
The TV cable is easy to adjust, but I don't remember the exact procedure
(see you favorite chiltons, haynes, etc).

-- 
-=<   Jon Lusky ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu   >=-- 
   \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
    \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
     \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
      \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:16952 sci.electronics:21212 sci.energy:6282
From: sreeb@crash.cts.com (Ed Beers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.electronics,sci.energy
Subject: Re: Flywheel batteries as EV power source
Date: 20 Dec 92 05:23:39 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services (crash, ctsnet), El Cajon, CA

I'm surprised to hear that flywheels are being used as a primary energy
storage medium.  I thought that they were being considered to meet peak
demand in systems using a small engine/generator or, which sounded most
usefull to me, to store energy in an electric vehicle which is recovered
using regenerative braking.

Either of these uses would require a much smaller flywheel.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech