HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 17:40:36 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

 
 Article 7975 (15 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
 From: us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller)
 
 >But seriously, Jack, why DO you think so many homebrewers 
 mash in picnic coolers?  You used to claim it was because of 
 Papazian's influence.  What are your thoughts now?
 
 I have already expressed my thoughts, you just ignored them.  
 Change the word "mash" to sparge and you get the point.
 
 >>The fundamental advantage over Papazian's approach is that 
 he drops the ball after mashing.
 
 >I assure you, the chapter on all grain brewing doesn't end 
 after the mash out.
 
 I didn't say it ended.  Dropping the ball implies that he 
 made bad use of the rest of the chapter.
 
 >And I stand by my first posting:  You really ought to read 
 TCNJOHB. 
 
 I would be happy to review it if you would be so kind as to 
 send me a copy.
 
 >Kind of like reading _The Catcher in the Rye_ in high 
 school.  ;-)
 
 I am no longer in high school and have the option of reading 
 for pleasure and ony that which I choose.  I have NOT chosen 
 not to read Papazians' book, I have simply chosen not to pay 
 for it.
 
 >From: walker@main.mndly.umn.edu (TIM WALKER)
 
 >>You don't seem to have a very good handle on things.  The 
 reason ones sends articles to editors is because they like 
 to edit out things they do not like and they usually do not 
 like most of what people send in.
 
 >>In this case, they decided to review the EASYMASHER as a 
 new product instead of running the article.  Their reasoning 
 for doing this is what is obscure not their reason for not 
 running the article.
 
 >Well, being both an editor and a writer, I *do* think I 
 have a handle on these things. In my profession, we draw a 
 very distinct line between the advertisements in a 
 publication and the articles in that publication.
 Regardless of the merits of your article, the paragraph 
 pitching your kit should not have appeared in your piece, 
 because it was a not-so-subtle way of soliciting people to 
 buy your product. If I were an editor at Zymurgy and had 
 recieved your submission, I still might have run your 
 article, but only without the offending paragraph.
 
 I was about to challenge you skill as an editor but now I 
 will just challenge your common sense.
 
 If one sentance (not paragraph) in an otherwise interesting 
 and appropriate article is objectionable, the editor's 
 function is simply to "edit" it out.
 
 You are making a mountain out of a molehill.
 
 js
From: laberge@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: bottle fillers
Date: 5 Jan 93 22:56:06 CST
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

I am looking for a bottle filler, and would like some information on
what's out there.  I've seen a few advertised, but I would prefer
some objective opinions.
Tim LaBerge
Dept. of Mathematics
Kansas University
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Making hop pellets from fresh hops?
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:36:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9514
Distribution: na
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1993Jan11.130802.27272@ultb.isc.rit.edu> jdc3538@ultb.rit.edu () writes:
>
>How are hops pellets made from fresh hops?  Are there any
>advantages to pellets over plain fresh hops?

The whole hops go into a machine called a hammer-mill, which crushes
the hop flowers and smushes them into pellets.

You might think that because hop pellets are "processed", they are not
as fresh as whole hop flowers.  In fact, the opposite is generally
true.  In the pellets, there is less surface area per unit weight of
hops that is exposed to oxygen than with the whole flowers, so they
take longer to stale (oxidize).  

Hop pellets disintegrate into powder when they hit the boiling wort.
Because of this, you supposedly get about a 10%-20% increase in hop
utilization (which is not necessarily good or bad -- you can always
compensate either way by using more or less hops).  Also, I have read
that for some reason (which I can't recall now) you are supposed to
limit the boiling time of pellets to 30 minutes (i.e. if boiling for 1
hr, wait 30 minutes before throwing in the hops).

Also because pellet hops turn into a fine mush, the resulting sediment
is virtually impossible to remove from the wort.  All you can do is
wait for it to settle out in the fermenter, which seems to take
forever with this stuff.  For that reason, I am currently not using
any pellet hops.  But some people really like them.  I think it's just
a matter of personal preference.
From: davel@ampex.com (Dave Larkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Brewstore?
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:00:10 GMT
Organization: Ampex Corporation, Redwood City CA

If someone wanted to set up a brewstore, how would the question of suppliers
be handled? Unlike many stores, (certainly not all) brewstores inventories
come from a very diverse international source. Must the store owner make
contact with each and every malt producer in Aus, England, Germany etc.etc.
or are there wholesalers to the homebrewing industry? As this is a possibility
for my future, any leads or suggestions would be appreciated.

		thanks	davel.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper)
Subject: Re: Our image as brewers
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:20:03 GMT

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:


>Folks, I am concerned about the image that we project to new readers
>of r.c.b and the Digest.

>As devotees of this noble passion, we naturally want to inspire those who
>are new to brewing, and to imbue them with our enthusiasm for this most
>salutary of crafts.  Unfortunately, I am afraid we may fall short of
>this aim.

>Yes, I'm talking about the fact that two of the regular posters to
>these forums have the usernames "gak" and "arf".  Are these the words
>that we want others to associate with homebrewing and homebrewed beer?
>I am sure you will agree that they aren't very appealing.  "Hey,
>would you like to try some of my homebrew?..."  "Gak!! Arf!"

>Who knows how many times a reader might be exposed to these words in just
>a single issue of the HBD?  All the worse if they don't actually read
>the 'From:' header fields, because then these unwholesome sounds
>are transmitted *subliminally*.  And who knows how many other crude
>and obnoxious usernames have escaped my notice?

>Just something to think about.

>Happy brewing!
>- --mark


  You know, I think people new to brewing would be more inclined to stay away
from the group because of the every-so-often high noise or flame level than
someones userid.

  Hell, does anybody know anyone who actually takes userid's *this* serious?

  Besides, a poster who doesn't read the From: line would probably just assume
that Arf and Gak are the posters initials.  Think I'm kidding?  I know 
these are wrong, but would work:  Alfred R. Finnigan and George A Kennedy.

  Lighten up and HAHB.

-Matth

--
          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)  

     Starve a lawyer!  Boycott Sam Adams and Jim Koch's BS legal tactics!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: My first batch - ready to bottle?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:02:18 GMT

In article <1i0f4vINN6ik@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>
 cr829@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chris G. Bjelica) writes:


>So far, I've been very careful about sanitation (sterilization)
>Can I remove the fermentation lock and _POUR_ the beer out
>of the carboy for S.G. readings without worring about con-
>tamination?

Sounds precarious to me.  One slip and out it all goes.  One fairly easy way 
it to get a turkey baster and use it to suck out a sample.

>How long should I wait for the beer to clear out.  Mr. Pap(etc)
>says the beer can sit in an "active fermentation lock" for
>a month without affecting the flavor.  I've also heard that 
>excess time will allow for the spent yeast to add "off" flavors
>to the beer.

If you are only using a primary fermenter, I wouldn't bother trying to let 
the beer clear.  I would only do this after having racked to a secondary 
fermenter.  Just go ahead and bottle when fermentation has completed.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: warren@athena.cs.uga.edu (Timothy Warren)
Subject: Help!!! First Batch
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:05:07 GMT

This is my first batch, Indian Pale Ale from a kit.  It has been six days and
there is no bubbleing from the blow off tube.  Is there anything wrong?



________________________________________________________________________________

warren@athena.cs.uga.edu 

________________________________________________________________________________ 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: drw@blink.att.com (Doug Woolley(x2405))
Subject: Re: hops
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 23:02:21 GMT
Keywords: hops

blyler@tecsun1.tec.army.mil (Todd Blyler) writes:

>I would like to try to grow some hops this spring. Not really 
>for brewing but for the fun of it. ( of course I might try a
>batch with them). Any info on where to get the rhizomes (sp?)
>or cuttings to get started ???

I got some rhizomes from a place near Pittburgh, PA
I recall its on Babcock Blvd, but I don't remember the
name.  For $15 they send two cuttings and had a wide
selection, but order early (Feb or so).

Doug Woolley
From: wkdodds@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (Walter K Dodds)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: water
Date: 8 Jan 1993 09:37:22 -0600
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: matt.ksu.ksu.edu
Keywords: water, hardness

redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc) writes:

>Can anyone help me out with some water questions?

>The following information is available about my local water supply:

>Phosphate:  .3ppm
>Chlorine:   .3ppm
>Ammonia:    .5ppm
>Flouride   1.0ppm
>Alkalinity 274ppm
>pH         7.4
>Iron        .3ppm
>Hardness   360ppm

>They were not able to tell me the breakdown of the Hardness, but they
>thought that it was mostly Calcium.  Does this sound correct?  Our
>water comes from an underground "river" which is an old (ice age) gravel
>river bed through which water seeps.  I have noticed that when left to 
>stand, a white, flaky precipitate is noticable in the water. Is this an
>indication of excess Ca?  360ppm seems awfully high.  Would it be a good
>idea to boil this water before brewing to lower the hardness?  I usually
>don't have to add gypsum to the mash, but I have to add a lot (1+ tsp/gal.)
>to my sparge water to get a pH of 5.7.  I have read that adding too much
>gypsum can be deleterious.  My beers seem to come out fine, but if I can
>make an improvement, why not?

>Any help would be appreciated.
>Tom




My guess is that the precipitate is the iron as it becomes oxidized.
The iron won't hurt and probably the precip will be filtered by the mash.
Isn't the problem with excess gypsum related to excess sulfate?
It is the excess carbonate that makes it hard to bring down the pH.

Walter Dodds    (wkdodds @ ksuvm.ksu.edu)




D
T
v
n
l
m
S
R
Q
P

D
B
A
it won't hurt you and probably filters out in the mash.  


my quess is that the 
>P.S. I have read the water sections in Miller and Papazian.
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Mead
Date: 4 Jan 93 11:06:59 CST
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

I'd like to try my hand at a mead this month and I'm looking for suggestions. 
I've been given a recipe for a straight mead that has won competitions.  It was
originally made in one gallon batches but I'm going to increase that to five
gallons.  Then I'm going to use 5, or so, 1 gallon cider jugs as secondaries
and let them sit for a year or so.  

Next, has anyone ever had the Polish wine mead Staropolski?  What I'd like to
do is duplicate this, if I can.  It's got a very strong taste of honey and
raisins.  My family and I really enjoy it but it's difficult to find.   It's
relatively cheap when I do find it, but finding it can be difficult.  Making it
would be so much nicer.

Now, does anyone have any ideas how to turn a regular honey/water/yeast mead
into this stuff?  Since I'll be splitting the batch up into five secondaries
anyway, perhaps I could just add stuff to them?  It will even give me an
opportunity experiment.  But if any experienced meaders have suggestions, I'm
certainly willing to hear them.  

I won't be brewing it until January 27, so there is a little time.

Mike Wilson
brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: Racking to Secondary
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:26:02 GMT

From article <726512417.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP>, by Polly.Goldman@p2.f615.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Polly Goldman):
> One suggestion for those of you who aren't sure that there's any point to
> racking to a secondary fermenter----
> 
> Taste your trub when you finally do get your beer off it.
> 
> If you like the taste of it, then you probably don't need to worry about its
> flavor transferring to your beer.  
> 
> I thought it was one of the nastiest substances I have tasted.

Yeah, but the trub is a main ingredient in the famous vegemite sandwiches,
so maybe our Australian collegues prefer not to rack ;-)  Over the holidays
I also discovered that autolyzed yeast is used in making the little
canned Vienna sausages.  I think I'll pass on those also.

Scott
From: Larry.Lund@p12.f79.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Larry Lund)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: KETTLE MASHING
Date: 9 Jan 93 01:56:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.726658441.AA00000

To: spencer@med.umich.edu

 SWT> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

 SWT> In article <walker.37@main.mndly.umn.edu>
 SWT> walker@main.mndly.umn.edu (TIM WALKER) writes:
>>> All the parts are available at a good hardware store.  For 
>>> those not inclined to hunt down the parts, a complete kit is 
>>> available from the author.

> Regardless of the merits of your article, the paragraph pitching your kit 
> should not have appeared in your piece, because it was a not-so-subtle way 
> of soliciting people to buy your product. If I were an editor at 
> Zymurgy and had recieved your submission, I still might have run your 
> article, but only without the offending paragraph. 

 SWT> Seems to me I've seen articles in Zymurgy (and other
 SWT> publications such as Popular Electronics) with exactly this
 SWT> sort of thing.  I'm going to stick my neck out, because I
 SWT> don't have the article in front of me, but I think that the
 SWT> RIMS article in this years gadget issue had an offer, by the
 SWT> author, to supply (at least) certain obscure parts. 

 SWT> I, for one (as a reader), usually consider such an offer a
 SWT> service to the reader, as long as the author is not making
 SWT> an obscene profit.  He has, after all, gone to the trouble

Hi Spencer, I was reading the same messages you were and was thinking the same
thing. I didn't post a message to this effect like you but like you I agree. I
appreciate this kind of thing. To often an author tells of a wonderful way to
do something only to leave the reader try and guess where to start. I'm sure a
lot have given up out of frustration. Good message. 8-)


Larry
N7LBP @ W0RLI.or
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: a tad bit of cooking oil
Date: 12 Jan 93 02:07:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9518
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1993Jan11.164607.3072@cnsvax.uwec.edu> drumm@cnsvax.uwec.edu (Danny) writes:
>
>
>I think I have just a pinch of oil in my just bottled beer.

Well, don't leave us in suspense...how did the cooking oil get into
your beer!?! :-)

>also, I must have lost a lot of my priming sugar along the way
>because I get almost no fiz (and the oil must have what little 
>head there would have been.)
>
>Is there anything I can do?

The only thing I can think of is...

You could it as a sign that it is your destiny to start kegging your
beer.  You could pour all the bottles into a keg and artificially
carbonate.
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: bottle fillers
Date: 8 Jan 93 20:11:21 GMT
Organization: Lachman Technology, Incorporated, Naperville, IL

In article <1993Jan6.192150.778@miki.pictel.com> hamilton@miki.pictel.com (Charlie Hamilton) writes:
>1) Spring valve filler - This works by sticking a plastic gizmo with a spring
>   valve on the end of a hard plastic tube. The beer flows when the valve is
>   pressed against the bottom of the bottle. The drawback is that you need
>   to hold onto the thing to keep the valve open. Also, there is a bit of
>   splashing when the valve first opens, and there is no beer in the bottle.

I just regulate the flow slowly until there is a bit of beer in the bottom.
That, and view it as providing some O2 to go with the priming sugar.

>   Another drawback is that you can't fill the bottle beyond a certain level,
>   which may leave too much air in the headspace.

I view it as: "You're guaranteed to leave the same headspace in every bottle."
If you think you need less headspace, you could possibly fit some sort of
extension to the valve actuator...


-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              Lachman Technology, Incorporated
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
 __       There's nothing quite like the pitter-patter of little feet,
 \/                   followed by the words "Daddy!  Yay!"
From: davehyde@tecnet1.jcte.jcs.mil
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Kegged!
Date: 4 Jan 1993 08:17:46 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu


Well, I finally got all my keg stuff straightened out.  I kegged 5 gal of
raspberry lager on thursday, and tapped it on Sat.  Wow.  I don't wanna go back

to bottles again.  Thanks to all (all 3 of you) who responded, the advice was
right on.

Dave Hyde
davehyde@tecnet1.jcte.jcs.mil
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Help!!! First Batch
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:33:40 GMT

In article <C0oxoK.FIA@athena.cs.uga.edu>
 warren@athena.cs.uga.edu (Timothy Warren) writes:

> This is my first batch, Indian Pale Ale from a kit.  It has been six days 
>and there is no bubbleing from the blow off tube.  Is there anything wrong?

Could be.  Has it finished fermenting?  What process did you use, what 
ingredients, and what equipment?  Not all blow-off tube setups will clearly 
bubble (unlike an airlock, for instance).

If your yeast was dead (did you check it first?), then you need to pitch 
more live yeast and hopefully no nasty organisms are living in your wort.

Could be all is fine, though, and your setup just didn't bubble because it 
couldn't.


John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: C.V.Copas@lut.ac.uk
Subject: Re: Activated Charcoal (was: Make you go blind.)
Reply-To: C.V.Copas@lut.ac.uk (Conn Copas)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 19:52:35 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.191539.1@vaxb.acs.unt.edu> atkinson@vaxb.acs.unt.edu writes:
>As far as how it works, let me start by giving you a few terms.
>Please forgive me; I am an academician - no this won't be on the
>test :()
>
>The activated carbon is the "adsorbent".
>The compound being removed by the activated carbon is the
>"adsorbate".
>The liquid carrying the compound is the "solvent".
>(stuff deleted)
>It is purely a physical attraction that causes the adsorbate to
>attach to the absorbent.
>
May I humbly suggest that you didn't really respond to the intent of the
original question, which is something like this - Carbon filters are normally
used for removing organic (that is, relatively uncharged) compounds from
liquids. This incidentally suggests that electrical factors must be important,
otherwise the filter would not be selective. Now, in a mixture of water,
ethanol, higher alcohols, and possibly methanol, why does the activated carbon
take out the nasties only? Enquiring minds want to know. Is fusel oil, for
example, less polar than ethanol? Or does molecular weight have something to do
with it?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: exploding bucket
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:49:05 GMT

In article <dhoward.1@oregon.uoregon.edu>
 dhoward@oregon.uoregon.edu (Don Howard) writes:

>Hello... I'm still a relative amateur at this stuff.  My seventh batch,
>extract, a SN Celebration Ale copy, popped the top of my plastic bucket
>some time last night.

>Anyway, I wasn't willing to give up because the aroma and taste was VERY
>promising, so I cleaned it up as best I could and resealed.  Questions -
>has anyone experienced as exploding bucket before and had the beer survive?
>Any guess at the probabilities of infection?  Is it OK to worry?

I will guess that this happened within a day or two of pitching the yeast.  
Some recipes with some yeasts are just more active than others.  It *is* 
possible for high kraeusen to explode out of a 6.5 gallon plastic bucket.  
Since people often have no problems with fermenting in an open container 
during this stage, you should probably experience no infection or other 
problem due to the lid popping off.

In this case, you really *can* relax.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral)
Subject: Re: Trisodiumphosphate (TSP)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:52:30 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA

I don't think TSP is any good at sanitizing.  It is an excellent cleaner 
though.  If I remember correctly, Miller recommends chlorinated TSP as a 
cleaner to beat all (TSP with bleach), but stick with the bleach solution
for sanitizing.  TSP from the hardware store is just fine.

Joe.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: eel@ravel.udel.edu (Eric Lowenthal)
Subject: Re: Fuller ESB taste-alike?
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:39:31 GMT

Summary: What about London Pride Recipe
Expires: 
Followup-To: eel@ravel.udel.edu
Distribution: 
Organization: University of Delaware
Keywords: 

In article <1993Jan11.215821.18884@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jay Marshall) writes:
>Does anyone out there have a recipe for something that would
>approximate a Fuller ESB taste?
>-- 
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Jay Marshall                       
>marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov    
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>(standard disclaimer)
>

Any tastealike recipes for Fuller's new offering: Fuller's London Pride?
I would prefer an extract recipe

Thanks,
EEL

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdc3538@ultb.isc.rit.edu (J.D. Cronin)
Subject: Making hop pellets from fresh hops?
Originator: jdc3538@ultb
Reply-To: jdc3538@ultb.rit.edu ()
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:08:02 GMT


How are hops pellets made from fresh hops?  Are there any
advantages to pellets over plain fresh hops?

Thanks...Jim
From: jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Cornelius kegs - preparation?
Date: 7 Jan 93 12:22:09 MST

I plan on kegging with a Cornelius keg in the future and was fortunate to
have 3 kegs given to me. They have not been used for any beer kegging yet.

What needs to be done to them to get ready?  What needs to be replaced (if
anything) to set it up? etc.  etc.  etc.

Thanks for any help
Jim      jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing