HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: grande@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (brad.l.grande)
Subject: Re: charging lead acid batteries
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:21:39 GMT

In article <falcon.721185100@camelot>, falcon@camelot.bradley.edu (D. Nathan Hood) writes:
> In <9254@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:
> 
> 
> >	I want to buy a 12 volt, 3 amp-hour lead acid battery to use in a 
> >lighting system that I am building.  Following the 1/10th rule, I need to use
> >a charger that delivers 300 milliamps.  I have a wall converter that is rated
> >at 300 milliamps & 12 volts.  Can I use this to charge the battery?  What is 
> >involved with doing this?  Do I have to guess at the charge time, or is there
> >some way that I can calculate this?  Can I use this power source as a trickle
> >charger?  Any info would be helpful, since I will base my battery purchase on
> >this info.  Thanks!
> 
> i hope that you are talking about a wet cell... like the kind used in a
> car... if not unless it is a ni-cad battery you cannot recharge them.  to

Wrong!  These cells can indeed be recharged.  You will find them in UPS systems,
emergency lighting, all the way down to VCR's and rechargeable flashlites.

> recharge a batter you reverse the chemical process that produces the
> current and unfortuantely in a standard dry cell battery a gas is evolved
> in this reverse reaction.  and well as you can imagine the pressure inside
> the battery builds up until you have an explosion and i think the acid is
> sulfuric and fairly concentrated and that stuff has a serious attitude, it

This is true for dry cells, however, a lead acid gell cell has the
characteristic of recombining the hydrogen gas produced within the gell.  Over
charging will produce more gas than can be recombined and the package is vented
to this occurance.  The manufacturer suggests that the cells not be charged in a
closed container.

> D. Nathan Hood, AKA Nathan "Of The" Hood, AKA Brotherhood, AKA  (/   \\ /\\\    

Brad Grande	WB0OYX
Another bike riding beer brewing kite flying amateur radio operator who
	still likes CD's!

AT&T Bell Labs
Naperville Illinausea
PLEASE SEND RESPONSES TO:	grande@iwtil.att.com
att!iwtil!grande
(708)-979-7853
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Wednesday, 4 Nov 1992 21:56:00 CST
From: <U29386@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Derailleur to blame for bad indexing?

I hope i can help you on this one. Although Im not quite sure what you mean
by your diagnosis of "shifting like your cable is stretched out", let me give
you some suggestions on what typically causes indexing failure.  going through
this checklist always works for me.
    1) double check the cable housing and make absolutely certain that it is of
 the COMPRESSIONLESS variety (not like your brake cable housing)
    2) use the cable housing endcaps (silver) if you had to cut the housing
    3) make sure that the cable innerwire is properly clamped at the rear der.
binder bolt...REAL IMPORTANT 'cause there is a "groove" under the pinch bolt
that the innerwire MUST lay in other wise you get an "overshift" symptom.
    4) If you are using Hyper-glide cogs, check the tightness of the locking
ring, these come loose fairly often.
    5) You are using a shimano spaced freewheel are'nt you? Suntour & Shimano
are NOT compatable.
    6) You mentioned that your hanger looks straight but I urge you to examine
it very closely because hanger alignment is critical to proper function.
    7) Short of the obvious checks...stretched chain, too many links, sloppy
derailleur pivot points etc. ...thats all i can think of...hope it helps
  good luck...Kasodrac
From: jv04@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JAMES VOROSMARTI)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: MAVIC equipment demo report
Date: 11 Nov 92 14:32:52 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Last night the materials science (metallurgy to you old folks) department
invited MAtt Bracken, of MAVIC to speak to the students about bicycel
component design and failures.  He is a mechanic and sales rep, so he has seen
a lot of in-service failures.

MAVIC was founded in 1890. it stands for  manufacturer de article velocipede
Idoux et Chanel.  they came out with the first aluminum rim in 1920. and the
first anodized rim in 1971 - the blue one.  matt had a set of wheels built up
with these rims as an antique show-piece.

He also passed around a set of wheels built like Indurian's: radial spoked
front wheel  and rear radial on the left and cross two on the right all with
oval spokes.  Alan pieper mentions these wheel in his Velonews diary of the
tour, and get a pair for himself.  they were pretty, though i am still leery
of riding on a radial wheel, i just need to be more of a consumer - if
Indurain does it, i guess it must be good :-)

he had a rim used by Joh Tomac- a aluminum rim with ceramic braking surface
with a number of spots where the ceramic had flaked off ( hitting too many
rocks there, John!)  Tomac wanted mavic to sponsor him to the tune of $60,000
but they turned him down, but they still give him rims and he still rides them.

Their electronic shifting uses a toggle switch on the handle bars with a nicad
battery in the bars with some computer chips.  Click the toggle one way and it
shifts a gear.  hold it down and it goes the whole way. click it three times
and it shifts three gears.  Matt said he hadn't taked apart the rear
derailleur, so he didn't know exactly how it worked, but there is a small
motor that pulls and pushes a rod to move the jockey wheel back and forth.
the real trick to this arrangment id that the jockey wheel is magnetic and the
derailleur cage has wires in it, so as you ride teh battery recharges! hmm, i
wonder if i can get my lighting system to work like this!

I can't remember all the othe good stuff that Matt talked about, but i am
pretty impressed with all of MAVIC's components, i only wish i could afford
them!

ttfn james
-- 

Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or
prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or
of the press; or the right of the people to peaceably assemble, and to
petition the government for a redress of grievances.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: RONEAL@lexmark.com (Randy O'Neal)
Subject: Re: Bar-end Shifters
X-Disclaimer: These views are the poster's and not necessarily those of Lexmark
Organization: Lexmark International, Lexington, KY
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 16:28:45 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.145220.27198@athena.mit.edu>
aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson) writes:
 
>
>I think we've gone through this discussion earlier, but it wasn't of
>interest to me at the time.  I'm thinking of buying a Specialized Allez
>road bike and having it assembled with bar-end shifters (I think they're
>Shimano Ultegra).  The bike itself is equipped with Shimano RX100
>components.
>
>I'd like to hear any comments regarding the advantages and disadvantages
>of doing this.  The down tube just doesn't seem like the right place
>for shifters.  I've tested a Bridgestone RB-1 with bar-end shifters,
>and really liked it.  Will they work good (or at all?) on a bike with
>RX100 components?  The bicycle dealer says yes, and that they'll
>install them free of charge, except for the difference in cost between
>the parts.
 
Can't speak for the bar end shifters, but a friend of mine has the SunTour
Command Shifters and he's completely sold on them.  I've ridden his bike a
bit and I really like them too.  If you spend lots of time down on the drops
the bar ends may be best.  However, if you spend most of the time on either
the hoods or the vicinity of the hoods, the Command Shifters are dyn-O-mite.
 
 
Randy O'Neal  RONEAL@lexmark.com     Printer Attach Software Development
                                     Lexmark International, Inc.
-- Weinberg's Law --                 Lexington, Ky.
'If builders built buildings like
 programmers wrote programs, then                                     __o
 the first woodpecker that came      "The views above are not those  `\<,
 along would destroy civilization.'   of my employer... just mine."  O/ O
From: choline@otago.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Shimano SPD & Safety
Date: 6 Nov 92 10:22:06 +1300
Organization: University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand

I have had a set of SPDs (XT) for just under a year now. I recently experienced
a great deal of difficulty getting in and out of them, in fact, a few times I
was getting locked in. Upon closer examination I noticed that the part of the
cleat which clicks into the V on the stainless steel plate at the heel of the
pedal was worn to a sharp point. When twisting out of the pedal this sharp
point would dig into the side of the V and make it very difficult to release
out. A quick trip to the bike shop only to discover that a pair of replacement
cleats cost NZ$38 (US$21)-hard to believe the a piece of cast metal can cost so
much. The new cleats have solved the problem and the click-in and release are
once again back to perfect. I would agree with previous comments that SPDs are
one of the most useful upgrades one can make on a mountain-bike. Unfortunately,
as the price of the replacement cleats tells, they are not cheap. I would be
interested to know if anyone else has experienced similar difficulties with
wear of the cleats and difficulties in getting out of the pedals.

Murray S.
From: robj@dcs.qmw.ac.uk (Robert Johnson;Phd)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Help: Clipless pedals/bad knees
Date: 10 Nov 92 14:21:24 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, QMW, University of London

Many thanks to all those folks that replied, I didn't realise that
this was quite such a common problem (I tend to wonder if there are
any cyclists who haven't had such problems judging by the quantity
of the feedback).
The solution which resulted in a 5 hour hassle-free training bash
on Saturday and a race on Sunday was to fiddle repeatedly with
SpuDs and Seatpost through many iterations until I got a
comfortable (slightly toe-in) setup.   The seat ended up around
15mm higher too.

			Cheers, RobJ

--
                         Robert Johnson
Automated Reasoning Group        | email:robj@dcs.qmw.ac.uk
Computer Science Department      | tel. :     071-975-5259
Queen Mary and Westfield College | fax  :     081-980-6533
University of London             |
Mile End Road                    |
London  E1 4NS   U.K.            |
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dai@kevlar.rtp.dg.com (Dave Iwatsuki)
Subject: frozen shocks 
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 18:22:40 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC
Keywords: suspension

 While riding around Mt Snow this weekend (actually, the summit is open 
 for skiing, so the mountain itself is closed to biking),
 my Trek DS2 front shock froze up. It was snowy and about 20 degrees.
 When I got back home, I threw hot water on it to free it up, but things aren't
 back to normal. I seem to be leaking oil, ( damaged seals? ), 
 which indicates disassembly and rebuild (under warranty, I hope).
 Is my diagnosis correct?
 And what can be done to prevent it, or fix it in the field? 
 The only thing I can think of is to add shock boots and carry lock de-icer.
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: SPDs and Snow
Date: 9 Nov 92 16:21:09 GMT
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK

Nope. You could try electrically heating the cleats using a small battery 
tucked down each sock, but it's unlikely to work. I find this problem is due
to snow compacting to ice and freezing the mechanism solid. How about spraying
the pedals with de-icer?

Seriously, I wouldn't be too concerned about having to use clipped pedals in 
the snow. At least you can then use heftier footwear and thicker socks to
stay warm. In my experience, most SPuD footwear has the thermal insulation
properties of a block of steel...

Mike.


--



"Ride and find where all the freedom has gone..."

Michael J. Davis          |   cs92mjd@ac.uk.ex.cen
Dept of Computer Science  |   cs92mjd@cen.ex.uk.ac
University of Exeter      |
UK                        |   #include<disclaimer.std>




   








-- 



"Ride and find where all the freedom has gone..."
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:1951 rec.bicycles.marketplace:1138
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Paramount Series 50
Date: 13 Nov 92 13:21:11 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, fhuang@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (EL FUMON) writes:
>   A friend of mine recently had his bike stolen and is thinking about
>buying a new one. A local bike store is selling Paramount Series 50's
>for $599. Does anybody have any comments on this bike? Any suggestions
>about other bikes in the $600 - $650 price range? Any and all info
>welcome.

If I recall correctly, the Series 50 was second only to the MB-3
in Bicycle Guide's '91 comparison test.  '92 MB-3's are available
here for $750 so I would say the Series 50 is a good deal for $600.

Please continue this thread in .marketplace

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dkw@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (David Wittenberg)
Subject: Re: Glasses mounted rear-view
Organization: Brandeis University Computer Science
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:07:41 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.164505.4064@pegasus.com>, richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) writes:
|> >HE>A few years ago I saw an ad for a cyclist's rear view
|> >HE>mirror which clipped to a glasses frame. I didn't
|> >HE>follow it up at the time, but now some my ride to work
|> >HE>is in heavy traffic and would like to try one. Does
|> >HE>anyone
|> >
|> >HE>1. Have any experience with these?
|> >
|> >I got such a device a year or so back, and used it for perhaps a week.
|> >Don't know if my experiences were typical.
|> >
|> >Problems:  you get a _very_ limited view of the road behind you, and
|> >what you see depends on the angle of your head -- most of the time you
|> >can see nothing in particular.
|> 
|> I got one from Nashbar a couple days ago ($6.95).  I've used it for
|> a couple of hours and don't intend to use it any more.  What a pain.
|> You have to re-aim the mirror by turning your head to just the right
|> angle each time you want a view of what's behind you.

These are typical reactions when you start.  It takes some effort to
learn how to turn your head to scan behind you with the mirror, but
once you get the hang of it, it works very well.  I don't remember how
long it took me to learn, but I remember that it did take several
rides.  Now I wouldn't think of riding without a mirror.

I can see everything behind me, but it does take a concious effort.

I prefer the helment mounted version, but they seem to only be
available for the left side (for riding on the right.)  When I've been
in places where they ride on the left, I've used a glasses mount,
which works pretty well.


--David Wittenberg
From: jv04@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JAMES VOROSMARTI)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: wild rim failure -- drive side \*pushing\* fatigue
Date: 11 Nov 92 14:10:48 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <BxF0u3.Gpu@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, bruce@uxc.cso.uiuc.edu (Bruce Krueger
) writes:
>of them are repeats of probs I've seen before, but I had a couple of guys
>come in with cracks in the sidewall of their rims where nearly every drive
>side 'pushing' spoke was holding it under tension, and I'm frankly baffled
>as to the cause, and possible preventative measures to take in the future.
>
>
>questions:  was the failure due to too much tension?
>            would butted spokes have helped in the latter case, due to
>           their increased elasticity?
>           is this more common with heat-treated/hard anodized rims?
>
>bruce
>
As luck would have it a MAVIC rep gave a talk last night about all of their
goodies and i asked him about the rim failures.  he has seen a number of the
mavic rims fail in a similar manner to the one you describe and said that
there was a batch that were assembled with incorrect ferrules in the rim, so
that the load from teh spoke onteh rim was not distributed correctly.  They
have a good return policy so he said you can return the rims (or just a 2"
section) to them, or go through your bike shop, and they'll send you a new
one.  I'm glad they'll  replace their equipment, but it doens't give me a warm
fuzzy feeling knowing that some rims may fail in this way.

ttfn james
-- 

Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or
prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or
of the press; or the right of the people to peaceably assemble, and to
petition the government for a redress of grievances.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: spokes
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 20:36:10 GMT

In article <1da9u8INN3uc@male.EBay.Sun.COM> npg@manx.EBay.Sun.COM is
wireed: 

>Which is thicker, a 14-gauge or a 15-gauge spoke?  

A 14.

>This is not a trick question.

No, but the answer is.

This is the American (?) Wire Gauge Standard measure.  It is inversely
related to the size of the wire/spoke.  It measures the number of
wires/spokes of a given diameter that will fit through the
standard-measuring-hole.

If more wires/spokes (15) will fit through the hole, then they must be
thinner.  Inversely, 14 in the hole indicates a thicker wire/spoke.

Refer all questions to rec.bicycles. racing.  They need the traffic
and are not accepting information on racers below the age of 25.

-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Stiction in front suspension
Date: 11 Nov 92 10:57:52 GMT
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK


In my experience, the order goes like this (most stiction to least)

Air/oil forks
Elastomer forks
Steerer tube systems

While there are individual differences, in general this is the impression I
have formed. I would speculate that the reason is to do with the fact that
air/oil systems have to have good seals=more friction. Elastomers less so, and
steerer systems tend to have several dozen bearings in there, so virtully
(oops - spelling) no stiction. I have no experience of link type forks such as
AMP, Kona, Lawwill, but I would imagine these to have comparable stiction to 
the steerer type, definitely less than twin-telescopic types.

Mikey D
--




"Ride and find where all the freedom has gone..."

Michael J. Davis          |   cs92mjd@ac.uk.ex.cen
Dept of Computer Science  |   cs92mjd@cen.ex.uk.ac
University of Exeter      |
UK                        |   #include<disclaimer.std>




   








--
From: mpb@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov (Michael Batchelder)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: mounting wheel sensor on cannondale MTB
Date: 13 Nov 92 02:42:27 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, NASA/Caltech

In article <1992Nov8.021733.25737@leland.Stanford.EDU>, tedebear@leland.stanford.edu (Theodore Chen) writes:

|> 
|> much to my annoyance, i've found that the sensor mounting
|> bracket of my new vette C-300 wireless is too small to
|> allow proper mounting on the fork of my cannaondale MTB.
...
|> 
|> thanks.
|> -teddy

Vetta and Cateye bands are interchangeable in most models I know (I'm
not sure about the C-300).  Cateye sells oversized fork bands in
several diameters for @ $5.  Call around and see if anyone has them.
Or, if you want a neat little trick, ask a dealer if he gets bikes
that have the rear reflector strapped to the seatpost.  Some Treks
used to.  The strap was a perfect o/s clamp for sensors (I should
have stocked up on the thingns instead of tossing them--coulda made
a fortune, given the number of people in your boat).

Michael 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: aviator@athena.mit.edu (Joakim Karlsson)
Subject: Bar-end Shifters
Organization: Flight Transportation Associates, Cambridge, MA
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:52:20 GMT

I think we've gone through this discussion earlier, but it wasn't of
interest to me at the time.  I'm thinking of buying a Specialized Allez
road bike and having it assembled with bar-end shifters (I think they're
Shimano Ultegra).  The bike itself is equipped with Shimano RX100
components.

I'd like to hear any comments regarding the advantages and disadvantages
of doing this.  The down tube just doesn't seem like the right place
for shifters.  I've tested a Bridgestone RB-1 with bar-end shifters,
and really liked it.  Will they work good (or at all?) on a bike with
RX100 components?  The bicycle dealer says yes, and that they'll
install them free of charge, except for the difference in cost between
the parts.

Thanks for any advice...Joakim
--
Joakim Karlsson            | aviator@athena.mit.edu
Flying Fanatic in Training | Air: PP-ASEL  CAP: Freedom 107 Mobile  FCC: N1JHW
                 "Oh, I have slipped the surly bonds of earth
                And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings"
From: jgersten@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Jay Gerstenschlager)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Restoration info needed (old shaft driven bike)
Date: 4 Nov 92 23:17:37 GMT
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

Hello,
	   Recently I have had the good fortune to inherit my grandfather's
old shaft-driven bicycle. I think the make is Cleveland.  I am looking
for advice on restoration.  There should be a few good books on this subject
but I have not found them yet.  Also I would like to find out its value.

Thanks,
Jay G. 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: fmathews@norfolk.vak12ed.edu (Frank Matthews)
Subject: Cateye Model HL-500 Mod.
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network (Norfolk)
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 92 22:30:35 GMT

The response to the Cateye Model HL-500 modification has been
overwhelming!  Since there was such a large response from all
over the country (must be alot of you out there riding with
insufficient lighting) I have taken the time to develop a
"professional looking" illustration and step-by-step guide.  It
is now finished and will be printed on a laser printer.  I'll
be running off about 250 copies (152 have been requested to
date) and stuffing the envelopes this weekend.  Thank you for
your patience as some of you have had envelopes sitting in the
box for more than two weeks.  You're gonna love the plan, and
as stated before...YOU WON'T BE DISSAPPOINTED with the results!
If you would still like to request a copy, send your SASE to:

	Frank Matthews
	4260 Meadow Wood Drive
	Chesapeake, VA 23321-4231
	USA (if necessary)

	Thanks again...I've got a new little project still in
the problem solving stage.  Hope to make it available by the
holidays.
		Later...Frank
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.tech