HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bob@netxcom.netx.com (Robert Thralls)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE:RE: CAR PAINT/SPRAY QUERIES
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:50:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NetExpress Inc., Vienna, VA, USA



> On a related note, assuming a car has no major rust,
> suppose I want to repaint it just to change the color
> or make it look better.  Is it necessary to sand down
> to the metal and start over?  I've heard that no paint job
> is as durable as the original one, so I'd prefer to
> paint over the old paint rather than to remove it.
> Is this possible?  If so, what are the trade-offs?

Subject: Over spraying for a nice paint job?

Another related paint question, what are the things that should be
done inorder to change the color of a vehicle properly?
What kinds of paint are better than others and/or how much should
I expect to pay to get a decent job? Are there risks of bleed through, etc.
How does one paint the inside of doors without making a mess?
How does one hold a crocodile without getting bit? How much prep work should
one do (or when to stop) in order to achieve the optimum results in final 
finish? What is the all the hubub about in polyurethane paint and *WHY* does
everyone want over 1500 dollars to paint with it?

Any answers in the above catagory will be greatly appreciated. It seems that
there is a *WIDE* variety to choose from. So far, I have not found any shop
that will quote me anything consistent with other shops. I have a 
BRONZE 79 320i, and I want it British Racing Green - I have been quoted 
everything from 399 to 2500. Nothing seems to make sense anymore, 
I just want a beautiful paint job, not a headache.

Thanx,
bob.
From: martin@NREL.ColoState.EDU (Martin Fowler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: slightly larger tires on 4WD?
Date: 13 Apr 92 23:22:10 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Natural Resource Ecology Lab, Colo. State Univ.

I'm thinking of buying some fractional increase in ground clearance and
possibly some extra load carrying ability* for my '86 Land Cruiser by 
going to a slightly taller tire.  Unfortunately, my current tire size
(LT235 75R15) is the largest recommended for my 6" wheels.  Before I
invest in new wheels, what are the disadvantages (other than odometer/
speedometer) of going to a larger tire/wheel.  I'm only interested in
the next size up, 30 X 9.50, so probably only need a 6.5" wheel.  Any
reason I should get a wider wheel for that tire size?

*For the extra load carrying capacity, I'm planning on adding a
leaf to my spring sets.  These are real leaves that insert in the middle
of the originals, not the kind that clamp to the bottom.  Any comments
on this addition?

-Martin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Subject: Re: Braking: Use brakes or transmission ?
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 16:56:13 GMT

bill@hood.Berkeley.EDU (Bill Norcott) writes:
>The only time you should use a lower gear
>and engine braking is on a steep hill, and that's for safety reasons.

... and in snow or other slippery conditions to keep the wheels from
locking up when breaking.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
From: fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: rolling a car
Date: 6 Apr 92 20:09:06 GMT
Organization: AT&T

From my observations, it is difficult or impossible to roll most
street cars by sliding them sideways. Exceptions include:

-Suzuki Samari's (as previously noted), some Jeeps, and other 
exceptionally high and narrow cars

-anything which can "trip" the car as it slides- candidates might be
curbs, anything soft which could build up in front of the wheels,
such as sand, grass, dirt, etc. As another poster noted, if you
get a tire off of the rim, the rim can do an exceptionally good job of
piling up dirt, etc. and tripping the car.

If you watch autocrosses, showroom stock racing, etc, you will see
a wide range of relatively typical street cars doing a lot of sliding
sideways (including spins, etc) without tipping over. This includes
ordinary street sedans (i.e. relatively tall) on pseudo-race tires
like A008RS or Comp T/A R1. Just remember that that the probability of
remaining upright while sliding sideways goes way down if you run
out of smooth, hard surface (e.g. asphault).

Frank Kerfoot
fwk\@homxc.att.com
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5485 rec.autos.sport:3129 rec.autos.driving:2175
From: nigel@rs733.GSFC.NASA.Gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Racial Discrimination at Mitsubishi
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:59:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: rs733.NIGEL.92Apr6175940
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, Md, USA


I normally wouldn't follow up on this sort of post since it sort of
speaks for itself...but having just come from my Mitsubishi dealer
(and getting excellent service) I feel somewhat obligated to point out
that not all Mitsubishi dealers are the same kind of scum that seems
to exist in Nashua (in case new car buyers get the impression that
this is typical of Mitsu service).

Fact is the dealer I go to isn't the one that sold me my car (thier
primary competitor did) and I've had some warranty work done
there...some of which was iffy as to whether or not it was still
covered.  They never bat an eye and simply did the work and billed me
zip.

If you live in DC and own a Mitsu I suggest going to Tischer (Laurel).
They seem to do better warranty work than Rockville (where I bought my
car) but I think that Rockville has more technical depth.  Could
explain why Rockville tends to fix problems while Tischer swaps out
parts for new ones.  No complaints here...I prefer a new part over one
that has failed before and repaired.  

Nigel Tzeng




--
Nigel Tzeng
.sig under construction
From: alan@lancaster.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM TH350 Trans. questions/problems
Keywords: Firebird, identification, swaps.
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:27:18 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

In article <1992Apr7.160725.24726@cbnewsd.cb.att.com>, krc@cbnewsd.cb.att.com 
(kenton.cabiness) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> I am very mechanically inclined, so, Is a TH350 trans rebuild feasable
|> to try at home with "normal" (or a few specialized) tools?
|> 
|> 

I've never done a TH350 but I have worked on several TH400's through the years.
In my opinion they are easier to rebuild than an engine.  Just take care while
disassembling so that you see how everything fits together.  If you have the
tools for engine disassembly/assembly, then you've got what you need for transmission
work.  You should be able to replace all the soft parts, clutch packs, etc for
about $200 by looking for a transmission parts shop.  Don't go to AAMCO!

Good luck!


-- 
Alan Hepburn           "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain
National Semiconductor       a little temporary safety deserve neither
Santa Clara, Ca              liberty nor safety."
alan@berlioz.nsc.com                              Benjamin Franklin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dsr@chickpea.mitre.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
	<1992Apr8.170232.21534@pictel.com>
	<1992Apr10.151114.378@watdragon.waterloo.edu>
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 17:37:38 GMT

In article <1992Apr10.151114.378@watdragon.waterloo.edu> gtong@dahlia.waterloo.edu (Gordon Tong) writes:

   I've found that by using higher octane fuel, I can advance my timing and produce
   better power. Besides, before I switched to using high octance gasoline, my car
   would knock excessively. Also, high octance gasoline also sometimes come 
   additives which clean the engine. 

1)  If your engine was knocking then you need the higher octane fuel.

2)  Many brands of gasoline now come with detergents in every grade. 
A little shopping can find these.  The additives don't so much clean
the engine as prevent deposits on the injectors and intake valves.



--
Douglas S. Rand 
Internet:   <dsrand@mitre.org>
Snail:	    MITRE, Burlington Road, Bedford, MA 
Disclaimer: MITRE might agree with me - then again...
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rab2f@fulton.seas.Virginia.EDU (Roger A. Burnett)
Subject: Mustang mailing list
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1992 16:39:54 GMT

     Is there a mailing list for older Mustangs?  I think that
mustangs@hpda.cup.hp.com is for late model Mustangs.   

                           Roger Burnett
                           rab2f@fulton.seas.virginia.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: HKS Turbo Kits
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 07:39:45 GMT

In article <frank.02ow@terapin.com> frank@terapin.com (Chun Li) writes:
>I have heard from my friend that HKS now makes Turbo systems for CRX/Civic Si
>that will push the engine to about 200hp AND California legal.  Is this true?
>
>Is it good to put 200hp on the front wheel?  I think the highest output front
>wheel drive car is Tarus SHO at 220hp.  Hum... last summer when I went back to
>Taiwan, I saw some 1.6L V-TECH turbo screamers that do 200+hp... nice!!
>
>Frank M. Lin    UCB Xtention    (APSUL) Capsule
>      Frank/RYU/Frank/Ken SF2CE  #1@ASUC

the taurus SHO used to be the most powerful FWD car.
then came the dodge spirit, with a DOHC 16v turbo at 224 bhp.
now it's the cadillac allante, with the *290* bhp northstar 32v V-8.
and the mag said it didn't have much torque steer, either.
0-60 of 6.7 seconds... with an automatic and 3800 lbs of weight.

i remember the good old days when they said 200 bhp was the
upper limit for FWD cars...
-teddy

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 20:08:40 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.110517.7908@ohm.york.ac.uk> u8acb@ohm.york.ac.uk (Alex Barclay) writes:
>In <5312@nosc.NOSC.MIL> koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>
>
>>this *is* rec.autos.TECH and that technical and technological correctness is
>>appropriate here.  
>
>At the risk of starting another flame war I would like to agree that
>technical correctness is important on this group. For the non TECHnical
>questions and answers then how about rec.autos.
>
>BTW Does anyone know of a book something along the lines of "INTERNAL
>COMBUSTION ENGINES MADE QUITE TOUGH WITH ALL THE MATHS" well perhaps not
>that strong but certainly not a Kevin soups up his Mk 1 Escort by buying
>bits off the shelf type book. No offence to Mk 1 Escort engine tuners
>who know what they're doing here ;-)
>
>			Alex.


See if you can get a hold of COMBUSTION ENGINE PROCESSES (don't recall the
author).  The one we had in the Bell Labs library was something like the 26th
edition (first edition came out in something like 1916).  It had a terrific
section on engine knock (including high-speed photos taken in some lab in the
early 1930s and swirl-head piston design for virtually knock-free engines),
manifold design equations, carburetor design, turbine design, etc.  I suppose
it had enough integro-differential equations to keep you happy...

I sure wish we still had it...

Bohdan Bodnar
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jhc@iris.uucp (James H. Coombs)
Subject: Re: Rolling a car, general questions
Reply-To: jhc@iris.UUCP (James H. Coombs)
Organization: IRIS - Brown University
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 16:54:42 GMT

In article <TYNOR.92Apr13180038@hydra.gatech.edu> tynor@hydra.gatech.edu (STEVE TYNOR) writes:
>In article <1992Apr13.195928.12344@fwhnm02.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com> rlatham@fwhnm1d.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com (Max Headroom) writes:

>| Any advice as to how to tell the limit of a curve, like
>| how much over the posted speed is generally safe?

>The public highways are the wrong place to experiment with the limits of

I have to agree.  You may be within the limits of the curve and your
vehicle at twice the posted speed limit, but you will have problems
when you catch up to someone who is going only 30-35.  There is also
the chance of unexpected road debris.  I hit a can of oil once (not the
can itself, but the oil that was spilled next to it).  I was going
about 5 miles an hour on a motorcycle but still could not keep my rear
end from spinning around.  I have also hit sand in a curve, which is
common in the early Spring in the northeast.  --Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schere@aix.rpi.edu (Edward David Schernau)
Subject: Re: Fuel octane versus power
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 18:19:50 GMT


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: Photo-Radar in New Jersey - Call your representatives TODAY!!!
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 22:04:31 GMT

In article <1992Apr16.175546.25677@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> whs70@dancer.UUCP () writes:
>The state police have made their big announcement about the beginning
>of PhotoRadar being used in NJ.
[stuff slashed]
>Think about it: Your son/daughter (or maybe your spouse or friend)
>is driving a car registered in your name and drives through a photoradar
>site.  A ticket is issued to YOU, for which YOU must pay and YOU
>get points on YOUR license as well as higher insurance costs.
>Of course you could always "rat" on the other person.  Boy, doesn't this
>sound like the good old USSR and/or Nazi Germany?

It takes a little more than driving through a radar site.  You have to
be driving faster than the law allows.  Maybe it will make you think
twice about loaning your car to an irresponsible driver.  

>Also, if NJ does this, how soon will it be before your state adds
>photoradar to its list of anti-motorist techniques?

If it is speed limits that you are opposed to, then say so.  It doesn't
make sense to make a law, but not allow for its inforcement.

>
>Standard Disclaimer- Any opinions, etc. are mine and NOT my employer's.
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Bill Sohl (K2UNK) BELLCORE (Bell Communications Research, Inc.)
>Morristown, NJ             email via UUCP      bcr!dancer!whs70
>201-829-2879 Weekdays      email via Internet  whs70@dancer.cc.bellcore.com

Albrecht Jander

PS. Get a VW bug.  Then you will have less problems with speeding tickets.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wednesday, 8 Apr 1992 13:03:58 EDT
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HKS Turbo Kits

koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) says:

>recalling 500cid Eldorados and 455cid Toronados...  i don't buy any such
>accusation of 200hp being a limit for front-drive...

What transaxils where used in those autos?  Are they used in any other
cars?
From: ericy@crchh435.bnr.ca (Eric Youngblood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Car Paint/Spray Queries.
Keywords: paint finish removal
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:52:38 GMT
Reply-To: ericy@crchh435.bnr.ca (Eric Youngblood)

In article <1992Apr6.015403.30243@ccad.uiowa.edu>, laughlin@ccad.uiowa.edu (John Laughlin) writes:
|> In article <13401@suns1.crosfield.co.uk> tad@crosfield.co.uk (tom drynda) writes:
|> >Hi,
|> >	My car was stolen a while back. The thieves had attempted
|> >to disguise it by spraying it matt black (it was white !).
|> >
|> >	What I would like to do now is to remove that top layer
|> >of paint and perhaps respray the car. I would like to do it
|> >myself to save money.
|> 
|> Try using rubbing compound and a buffing attachment for your drill.
				

Ouch!

You should probably not attempt rubbing compound & a drill w/ buffing wheel.
There are a few reasons:
				
  1. Not all paints are meant to be buffed 
       Acrylic Lacquer : should be color sanded & buffed
       Acrylic enamel  : can be color sanded & buffed
  2. You should never attempt to buff (or sand) any car paint finish before
     removing *ALL* the wax and silicone. The reason is that any buffing/sanding
     will drive the wax/silicone into the pigment and produce poor results.
  3. Always use a random orbital polisher when buffing to reduce swirl marks.
	
You *might* be able to save the original paint but it may be more trouble than
its worth. 
First thing is to scrub down the car with soap & water. Then apply a good quality
silocone/wax remover (3M makes one) following the instructions.
If your original paint was acrylic lacquer or some type of baked enamel with a
hardener you are in luck. Using a hand sanding block, 600 grit wet/dry automotive
sanding paper (used wet), and *LOTS* of fresh running water you will have to 
sand through the black paint. The water will wash away the residue and lubricate
the surface. I suspect the black paint will come off fairly easily as the thieves
probably painted over your car's wax job. When you can see your original finish
coming through use more silicone/wax remover to get rid of the wax job. 
Continue this until all the black paint is removed. The surface will be matte
dull and will be ready for polishing or repainting if you choose.

(IMPORTANT : Get a book on surface preparation, it will instruct you on the
             proper way to sand to avoid scratches)
 
Which option you choose (repaint or polishing) will not affect the fact that
you have to sand the existing surface. So, sand it and hope the original paint
is buffable, but if not you're ready to paint. Either way you win.

Good Luck!

Ericy
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What the $#&! is with the oil??
Date: 8 Apr 92 22:29:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

One year ago I posted this:

When I had to change the valve cover gasket I noticed quite a bit of sludge
inside. Any idea what couses it? (Cold temp and Short trips???) Is there a 
way to get it out of the whole system? Like on oil additive?? I do change
the oil regularly.

All I got is this (from a local):

>One mechanic with whom I did the work on my car said that this is due to
>short distance trips without worming up the car. Since I bought the car
>used, it is possible that the previous owner did this. When I changed the
>gasket, I removed as much of it as possible. When I drive the car, I try 
>to warm it up first (I live in Halifax, N.S.). So the temperatures here
>get below freezing most nights. I have not checked for the sludge since.

Now I'm posting this:

I looked on my dip stick and it looked like I need to add oil. So I open up
the cap, look at it and say a few nasty words. The cap was all white on the
inside! I look through the hole and see it all over inside. The white stuff
is a dirty milky color, Very light gray. It feels like oil. i.e. It is NOT
in clumps or like jello. 

1) What the &%$# is that stuff? Any specific type of sludge?
2) What made it appear? Do I heave a leak somewhere and some stuff is reacting
	with it?
3) How do you get rid of it? Any engine cleaners out there? 
4) Should I use a different type of oil? How do I make sure it does not 
	appear again?

Note: I did not find any loss of power or performance.

Thank you for ANY suggestions!!

ANdy
-- 
ANdy ***********************************************************************
     ___                     "Igoddago, Takideezy & Guluk"        
    /...\___           gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca     goaway@ac.dal.ca
   |-O----O->
From: jcyuhn@brchh467.bnr.ca (James Yuhn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Redline vs. Amsoil in SHO transaxle
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:13:10 GMT
Reply-To: jcyuhn@brchh467.bnr.ca (James Yuhn)

In article <6APR92.10083050@retina.waisman.wisc.edu>, stanford@retina.waisman.wisc.edu writes:
|> 
|>         I have been trying, unsuccessfully, to find a local source for
|> Redline MTL to put in the transaxle of my SHO.  In the past, I have noticed
|> that Amsoil is mentioned sporadically as another replacement lubricant
|> in the SHO.  This I can find locally.
|>         Should anyone have experience with Amsoil in the SHO, or information
|> concerning this application, I would very much appreciate it if you would
|> pass it along.  E.g., the relative merits of Redline vs. Amsoil, whether
|> a specific type of Amsoil needs to be used, etc.  Please E-mail to the
|> following address if you feel that the information is not of sufficient
|> interest to post to the net.  Thanks in advance.
|> 
|>                                         Larry Stanford
|>                                         STAINFORD@WAISMAN.WISC.EDU

   Larry,
  
      Sorry to be posting this, but I don't have email at this time. 

      I've been running Amsoil synthetic ATF in my SHO for about 5K miles
      now. I have had no problems at all, and shifting is much improved.
      I ran Mobil synthetic ATF for about 25K miles prior to the Amsoil.
      Both substantially improve shift quality, though I think the 
      Amsoil is a bit better than the Mobil. 
  
      I recall one poster describing an episode where the Amsoil in 
      his SHO crept up the speedometer drive and ended up dripping into
      the drivers' footwell. I have had no such problems. If I had to
      guess, I'd say this problem would be caused by overfilling the 
      transaxle.

      I have no technical information on Amsoil vs. Redline.

      Your application requires Amsoil synthetic universal ATF.
   
      My summary - go for the Amsoil. Any difference between it and 
      Redline would likely be incremental.
  
      Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: coleman@riemann.gsfc.nasa.gov ()
Subject: RE: catalytic catastrophe on Miata (FIXED!)
Organization: NASA Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt MD
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 14:05:43 GMT

For those who read my post yesterday concerning my dead cat.
on my miata, I owe it to Mazda to post this update. 

Mazda is going to give me a new cat. and also pay the labor
as a "good will gesture."

Greg C.

Greg Coleman/Cray Research
c/o NASA GSFC/301-286-2333
coleman@eastrg2.cray.com
From: pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu (Paul M Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mobil 1 change intervals
Date: 6 Apr 92 21:46:01 GMT
	<1992Apr5.184100.9430@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>
Organization: Freshman, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

>I have used mobil 1 in cars for years.  In the past I changed the oil
>about once every 25 to 30,000 miles.  I have not had any enagine problems
>on the cars doing so.  The oil does get dirty.  Note, If the oil does
>not get dirty, it is not doing its job.  The cars have mostly highway miles
>on them.  If I were to do more in town driving, and short trips I would
>change it more often.
> 
Mark
I think your putting a great investment at considerable risk in using
oil for that long.  That oil has a tendency to turn to sludge and gum up
internal parts (like oil pumps)if it is not changed properly(including
the filter).  Oil and filters are not that expensive.  Look at it this
way you can pay a little now or a lot later.