HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: boing@mcl.ucsb.edu (Geff Hanoian)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Buying a crossover, how to choose?
Date: 21 Nov 92 19:29:14 GMT


	As far as looking for a crossover you really need to decide 
	what speakers you are going to run and what there crossover 
	frequency needs to be.  I didn't decide on the speakers first and
	I ended up blowing my tweeters.  I have the Sony XEC-1000 which
	I really like and is really clean (no hiss) but it's draw back
	is the amount of frequencies.  For the Tweets I have 2.4k, 3.5k,
	5k, 7k.   And it's also set at 12db/oct.  Now .. providing you
	buy speakers thar work with that .. I'd go for this crossover.  
	If you don't have speakers  that work with it (.ie. my AVI 
	tweeters) you are going to have to incorrectly set the Xover
	freq.  I have mine set at 5k and it sounds ok.  I'm currently
	looking for some new separtes.


	boing

In <6994@dove.nist.gov> keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:


>I know that i need a crossover.  I have a basic understanding of
>what crossovers do, but i am not sure how to determine what kind of
>crossover i need, for my application.  So, tell me what to buy!

>My head unit has four RCA outputs.
>I have one 4 channel amp, and a 2 channel which will be bridged to
>1 channel.  I have two sets of components.  A set for the front, and
>a set for the rear.  Each has a pair of passive crossovers, however, the
>crossover only "serves" the tweeter (the mid driver operates full range).
>I have a single dual voice coil sub in a ported enclosure.

>I would like to limit the frequencies channeled to each of the mid bass
>drivers.  I would like to limit the frequencies channeled to the sub.

>I am interested in a unit which can be trunk mounted. I would like to
>retain the ability to fade from front to rear.

>Basically, i want a good quality active crossover, but i don't want to 
>buy more than is necessary.

>	-	What kind of crossover do i need? 
>	-	2 way, 3 way?
>	-	which is better 6db,12db,18db or 24db/octave?
>	-	continously variable, plug-in modules?

>I've looked at an Audio Control 2XS $115, 4XS $199, and PPI FRX 322 $250.
>For some reason that i don't understand there seems to be many more 2 way
>crossovers available than 3 way, even in the higher price range.


>E-mail or post.

>Thanks,

>Larry
--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|             DISCLAIMER!!!!!!  The opinions I express are my own.         |
|  Nakamichi, Precision Power, AVI SOUND, and Monster Cable Speaker Wire.  |
|        boing@mcl.mcl.ucsb.edu   FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS USE MACS!      |
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gilchr@ee.ualberta.ca (Andrew Gilchrist)
Subject: Re: Passive X-Over Chart Repost...
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 22:28:35 GMT

ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh) writes:

>re: tables of L and C values...

>What I question about this is how many speakers have an impedance = DC resistance
>at the xover point? Granted the impedance varies a little between identical speakers
>but it's better to measure the impedance at the xover point so you have a better
>idea as to whether that 4 ohm speaker is really 2 or 10 ohms where you want it 
>crossed. The manufacturer/distributor can provide you with this info if you don't
>have the equipment to test it out.

True.
It gets very messy when you want to take all these things into account.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
From: psionic@wam.umd.edu (Sixth Plane of Hell)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 20:57:19 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.052253.6048@u.washington.edu> miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
>
>  Anyone have any particularly nasty things to do to the bastards 
>whose car alarms start screaming a 1:00 am and never shut up?
>(I expect something good from you a.t people)
>scot


Ok well if the alarm is annoying you I suggest you get a small pair of
tree pruners and place them in your hand. 

Second you approach the offending vehicle and crawl underneath with the 
pruners. 

Third take said pruners and cut the positive line on the battery cable.

The alarm should now be silent.


Now for my last 2 cents before this subject dies.

On the subject of false alarms. What it boils down to is the equipment and 
the installation. If you use cheap equipment you get cheap results. There
are many "professional" alarm systems that are cheap and false quite a bit.
If you see cars that have these alarms and you know they are falsing make
a mental note of it and don't buy those systems. .

Also the installation is important. Many times faulty adjustment on the
shock sensors creates false alarms. What people don't realize is that you
don't need to set these devices so that if you touch the car they
activate. This is useless because you get an alarm that falses during
rainstorms and when people walk by. In other words you get the boy
who cries wolf. These sensors are designed to detect hard shocks to the car's
body and glass. They are not made to detect when your car is lightly hit with 
a car door in a parking lot, or when somoeone leans on your car. If you car
alarm can detect these things you will get false alarms.

To whoever recommended pager systems. You are right. The only person who
cares about a car alarm going off is the owner of the vehicle!! The sound
of the alarm is to potentially bring attention to the vechicle and scare
off the offender. Generally though people will not call the police for you.
In my car I have an audible and silent alarm. So I get the best of both worlds
I usually recommend that most other people do the same..

psionic@wam.umd.edu


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: Alpine 7802
Organization: UMCC
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 19:26:16 GMT

Hi.  A Friend of mine is looking at the Alpine 7802 indash CD unit.
What are your opinions of this?  Shes not worried about expansion,
So im just curious about performance of the unit itself.
All comments welcome.  Post or email.
Thanks
-Robb

-- 
/~~~~~~///~|~~~~~~~~~* 5.0 Ford Mustang II *~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
\  \\\///  |  Stillwater Design-Pioneer-Infinity   |                         /
/   \XX/   |   Aiwa-Cerwin Vega!-Sherwood-Technics | robb@141.211.206.16    /
\__Amiga!__|_______________________________________|_______________________/
From: ah532@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike Gleba)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Sound/Alarm System For An Astro Van?
Date: 21 Nov 1992 05:26:07 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ah532@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike Gleba)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu

I have a really nice astro van and plan to deck it out as much as
possible, but spending as little as possible. Right now I only have a
rockwood 100 watt amp, and 2 Pyramid 6x9's. A knowledgable guy told me
to get a Clarion Pullout CD player, and an MTX 10" kicker, or 2 10"
Rockford Fosgate 10". What do you all think? Also, I need an alarm, as
cheap as can be, that will just keep thieves away from my system. Thanks

-Mike

-- 
Bodybuilders and Volleyball Players Will Rule The World

Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,misc.forsale
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 11:33:39 -0500 
From: Carey Alan Baird <cb4f+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: <CAR AMPLIFIER FOR SALE>

I have a Pyramid Gold Series amplifier that I bought early this summer,
and I need to sell it, because I have too many bills to pay.
Specs.-

-100 watts X 4 channels at 4 ohm
-Bridgeable to 200 watts x 2 channels
-2ohm stable
-switchable subwoofer outs on all channels

I'm going home on tuesday and I can get it then or I can find out more info.
It has not been used much at all for once I installed it my truck broke
down and I haven't had the money to fix it.

I paid over $250, but I'll take $200 for it.

                                       thank you,
                                       Carey A. Baird




Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Crossovers in series
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:35:33 GMT

I currently have a two-way crossover splitting my front channel between
5 1/4"s in the doors and 3 1/2"s on the dash.  The signal is crossed at
2.5kHz.  I'd like to filter below 200Hz on the woofers as well, and have
two 200uF caps which could accomplish that task.  My question is this:
will putting these two passive crossovers essentially in series with
one another do any strange, undesirable things to my signal?

Thanks,

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
   Jensen - Polk - Sansui - Proton    | of the establishment..."
 Sony - StreetWires - Sanyo - Sennet  |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
From: jeh@cmkrnl.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Sony Changer Compatibility
Date: 20 Nov 92 18:28:14 PST
Organization: Kernel Mode Consulting, San Diego, CA

In article <1992Nov19.232152.7001@wdl.loral.com>, trw@spl1.spl.loral.com 
(Tim R Witort) writes:
> In article <CMM.0.90.4.722179090.clane@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, clane@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (bored-out-of-my-skull) writes:
> |> So Sony isnt making the changers that will work with the XR series anymore?
> |> 
> |> I was just going to ask that,  [expletive]!  I suppose when I graduate and get a
> |> real car i will have to buy another stereo...........

Do I detect crocodile tears here?  "Oh, drat, I'll just HAVE to get another
[better, more features, more reliable, ...] stereo."

>    Good point.  Are the new "U" serires Sony CD changers 
> compatible with their controllers that control the older
> "X" series?  I wouldn't expect all of the nifty new features
> of the "U" series to work, but would the standard old 
> features work?  I have the Sony car DAT deck which can
> control an "X" series CD changer - but will it control the
> new "U" series?

I don't want to say "definitely not" -- it's a little bit difficult to prove
that the necessary adapter doesn't exist and will never exist -- but I think
it's pretty unlikely:  The connectors don't match.  Worse, the functions of
the pins in the connector don't match.  Not anywhere close, in fact.

The old "X" series have an cable with about a dozen pins in the connector.  I
got a look at the connector for the U-series changer (a Dow Stereo sales droid 
tried to sell me one to go with my XR-7280).  The connector looks similar from
a distance, but close up it appeared that there were just two (2) pins!  

I'm not sure how they're multiplexing two channels of audio plus control
signals to and from the changer PLUS power on two wires (plus the shield)... I
suppose that using "phantom power" techniques and putting the control signals
on carriers above the audio band would do it.  Heck, the audio could be riding
on a carrier for that matter -- Sony has chips to encode stereo audio on a 200
kHz or so carrier and to decode it back again; these are used in their infrared
headphones.  They could be doing the same thing here, just eliminating the IR
part. 

However it works, it's surely a different signalling scheme than the X series
uses, so forget about hooking one to the other with a simple cable adapter. 

Of course I could be wrong.  Don't rush out and buy a new head unit on my 
advice alone!  I suppose the best thing to do would be to call Sony and ask
them if an adapter is available.  Let us know what you find out. 

	--- Jamie Hanrahan, Kernel Mode Consulting, San Diego CA
Internet:  jeh@cmkrnl.com, hanrahan@eisner.decus.org, or jeh@crash.cts.com
Uucp:  ...{crash,eisner,uunet}!cmkrnl!jeh
Organization: Sophomore, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 13:17:33 -0500 
From: Stephen James Kendrish <sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Do those CD players skip? Are they any good?
	<1992Nov18.170500@usho21.hou281.chevron.com>

I have a Pioneer Premeir DEH M-77 in my late model Trans Am and it works
very well.  It seems like you have to hit the bumps and pot holes just
right in order to make it skip.  I actually tried to make it skip one
day while driving and it was pretty hard.  My suspension is also set up
pretty stiff.  I can make it skip if I take my fist and hit the center
console where the radio is but I have to hit it pretty hard.  I guess I
can speak for all the Pioneer CD head units (or at least high end units)
when I say they don't skip that often.  I paid $550 for my head unit
with wireless remote and detachable face.  It's similar to the 880 but
the M-77 has 4 x 30, high-power and subwoofer crossover built in. 
Retail was $800.  If you've got the cash, go with a high end Pioneer.  I
hope I've helped.

Steve
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: HIFONICS
Date: 23 Nov 92 17:55:58 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

HI,

I am just trying to get an idea on what the reputation of
Hi-Fonics is..  How would it compare to other brands?

A friend just bought the 400W Hifonics for what I would
consider cheap for a 400W amp, and the amp itself seemed kinda
small.  It sounded OK in the car, but that it not a real
good judgement for how accurate the specs are.

MArc
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:4858 alt.locksmithing:1998 alt.tasteless:12534
From: miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,alt.locksmithing,alt.tasteless
Subject: Re: Car alarms
Date: 16 Nov 92 05:22:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Nov16.052253.6048
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle


  Anyone have any particularly nasty things to do to the bastards 
whose car alarms start screaming a 1:00 am and never shut up?
(I expect something good from you a.t people)
scot
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: danclark@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov (Resident MacWizard 26/140 286-4405)
Subject: Re: Car alarms
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords: auto car alarm
Organization: NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 19:37:00 GMT

>A friend of mine has an excalibur alarm and it has started doing the same
>thing...3 chirps when it arms...we checked thoroughly and there are NO
>open circuits......go figure

I have called Excalibur for a few problems, and they are more than 
willing to assist with troubleshooting.  Their number is 

 404-942-9876

Hope you are able to fix your problems. 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: dap3257@zeus.tamu.edu (DON PERLICK)
Subject: Re: Decreasing Volume in Sub-box
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 20:42:00 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.161033.22844@kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca>, demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine) writes...
>Finally, if you haven't, I strongly recommend checking the tuning of your
>box after you're finished fooling with the size.  Being even a few hertz
>off in the tuning can seriously change the system's response.
> 
>If anyone doesn't know how to check the tuning, I'll post the method.
> 
	Could you go ahead and post how to test the tuning?  I'd imagine
it'd require a signal generator or test CD and ???

Thanks,
Don

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bublitz@mdd.comm.mot.com (Martin Bublitz)
Subject: Soundstream MC245
Keywords: amp
Organization: Motorola - Mobile Data Division; Richmond, BC
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 16:56:03 GMT

Is anyone running or have some experience with the Soundstream MC245 
amplifier?  I've seen it in a few stores up here in Vancouver and have been
nothing but impressed with it. 

At the moment, I'm running a pair of MB Quart 5 1/4" coaxials up front
with a pair of MB Quart 6 1/2" coaxials and two Kicker C-12's in the rear
of my CRX.  Except I'm running them all with three separate amps.  I'd
like to be able to consolidate all three together into one amp and the
Soundstream looks good.  Any opinions?`

Thanks.

Martin
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: HIFONICS
Date: 23 Nov 92 19:47:18 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.

In article <1992Nov23.175558.12206@cbfsb.cb.att.com> mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy) writes:
>HI,
>
>I am just trying to get an idea on what the reputation of
>Hi-Fonics is..  How would it compare to other brands?
>
>A friend just bought the 400W Hifonics for what I would
>consider cheap for a 400W amp, and the amp itself seemed kinda
>small.  It sounded OK in the car, but that it not a real
>good judgement for how accurate the specs are.
>
>MArc



	Are you referring to the Boltar?

	I have that amp useing 2 twelves in stereo.

	Of course if in activly crossed over at 120 Hz.

	I didn't have any problems with it except when I first installed
it I ran out of 10 AWG wire so I used 14 AWG for ground. After an hour
of bass it clipped but now that I have 10 AWG going in and 10 AWG going
out it works fine, it gets hot of course (not that hot) but it doesn't
clip. And I didn't hook up a fan.

	It doesn't  have a fuse so you have to get an wire (10 or 8 AWG)
with an inline fuse. I have it connected directly to the battery.

	So if your friend is happy with it, thats good because it is a
very good amp, IMHO. It is 2 ohm stable.

	Another reason why I bought it is because HiFonics is located
two towns away from me, so if anything goes wrong I don't have to ship
it all over the country.


					I hope this has made you feel
better,

-- 
M A D E   .   . .---. .---.    \  Buy U.S.A. products,  /    xxxxx ==========
  I N     |   |  \    |___|    <     It's YOUR job.     >    xxxxx ========== 
 T H E    |   |    \  |   |    <  Christopher J. Massa  >    ================
-------   `---' `---' '   `    / cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu \    ================
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Alarm for carjacking
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 13:49:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University
NNTP-Posting-Host: b64746.student.cwru.edu

In article <1687@rwja.umdnj.edu> holowczk@rwja.umdnj.edu (Richard Holowczak) writes:
>    One thing I do is not to pull up close to the car in front of me at red
>    lights.  This way, if someone is approaching your car, you can either
>    pull a U-Turn or drive around the car in front of you to get away.

	I agree. My girl friend does not understand why I scold her for 
pulling right up on the bumper of the car in front at a light, in east 
Cleveland, with the window's open and the stereo cranking. She come's from a 
small town, and no matter how much you try to educate her about the cities, 
she just can't even comprehend that there is a danger.

	Also, if you give yourself room, you may save yourself from a 
"squeeze play" accident. My mother was rear-ended at the lights, and she was 
within a foot of the car in front of her, a new Cadallac. She was "squeezed"
between the two cars. The person that hit here was charged with the accident,
but we had both rear and frontal damage.

	Semi-good news, the poster has been up and running the last 
day or so fine, but my mail deamon is still angry...
From: v523d85n@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Robert C Maggio)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: RE: CAR ALARMS
Date: 17 Nov 92 15:41:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: acsu.BxvA86.F95
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <3653.110.uupcb@cccbbs.UUCP>, rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) writes...
>-> Maybe I am alone in this statement.
>-> I would almost love to see some jerk get his car stolen
>-> when I think of all of the false alarms I have to deal with!!
> 
>I hope you are alone.  Bitch and Moan......Awww!  I don't know about you
>but I have alot to protect in my car and if my alarm goes off once or
>twice a year........tough!  I have 4 different sensors in my car and it
>RARELY ever goes off.  If it does....it is because some ass bumped it or
>something.  So....as you say it.....DEAL WITH IT!
>                Thanx,  Rob Runkle
>P.S.  Lets see if we can make everthing perfectly silent for this guy.


i too have an alarm that is adjusted so that i have few if any falses.
it irritates me that so many people have ploorly adjusted/installed alarms.
every day i hear an alarm going off somewhere near my house.  if the wind is
blowing or there is a lightning storm, there are a few alarms that will be
constantly going off and resetting themselves and going of...etc.  i think that
the owners get tired of turning them off and just let them scream for the 1-2
minutes before they shut off automatically and then go off again.  when a big 
truck goes down the street, it leaves a trail of wailing alarms.
no wonder lpeople ignore a siren when they hear it.  

my alarm has falsed only once to my knowledge (i consider a false to be when 
the alarm triggers for an insignificant reason), this was when an air force 
bomber flew over at low - and i mean low- altitude.  this was when i first 
installed it and was trying to find the proper adjustments for the sensors.
i installed it myself because i do not trust the people you find in most
places to do a good job.  since this time, my alarm has been triggered only
five times, this is in a year and a half of having the alarm:

once some kids hit it with a football
once some one left a dent in the side, probobly from a car door
once when some guy at a car wash tried to get in the wrong car, not a thief
	believe it or not
twice unknown - maybe these were falses

i know this because my alarm signals any time it has been triggered when i 
return to the car.

my point?
since most car alarms are improperly installed or adjusted, the owner is the one
who can be counted on to even notice his or her alarm siren.  those of us with
working alarms should be pissed at these folks with goofball setups because
they decrease the efficiency and effectiveness of our own security systems

rm
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate)
Subject: Re: 1 Farad Capacitor availability
Organization: Cascade Design Automation, Bellevue, WA
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 22:18:33 GMT

In article <26130113@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom) writes:
>}>   Right now i'm looking in the new Pasco Scientific Physics catalog and
>}>they have for sale a 1 farad capacitor for roughly $19.00.
>}>The problem is is that it is a 5 volt and not a 12-20 volt as needed for
>}>automotive use.  Does anybody have any idea how to get a 5volt to work
>}>with 12-15 volts?  If so then these would be a lot cheaper than the
>}>800,000 microfarad that 2000 sells for $125.00...
>}>
>}>                                   William C. Devine, II
>}----------
>}Stack 4 in series and you get a 0.25 Farad capacitor for 4x$19 or $76 that
>}is rated at 20 Volts.  Of course it will take up alot of space.
>}

    I don't think that this is a very good idea. A capacitor is basically
a short circuit for transients. What this means, is that whenever you get
a transient, the four capacitors will have to short through, only if three
of them stay shorted for even a slightly longer time than the other, 
you will have a full 20V across one rated at only 5V. 

    I don't know what the dielectric in them is, but it should be something
like oil, and I wouldn't want that blowing up in my face.

    Think.

    -Shailendra
    ssave@ole.cdac.com

>}I saw an add in some parts mag. for 0.1F 20V caps for $18.95.  I'm
>}thinking this might be a good buy.  Size is 2.5"Dia. x 4"Long.
>}
>}Kirk out
>----------

  
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car