HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: spencer@med.umich.edu (Spencer W. Thomas)
Subject: Re: bottle fillers
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 15:17:56 EST
Organization: University of Michigan
	<1993Jan6.192150.778@miki.pictel.com>

I have a "pressure valve filler" in Charlie Hamilton's terminology.
I've never had it "piss beer all over the kitchen".  The
disadvantages:
1. You get some splashing (and hence unwanted aeration) when the flow
   starts.  I'm using SmartCaps to try to counteract for this (and any
   other accidental aeration during the bottling prcess).
2. If you bump the end against something, beer flows out (maybe this
   is what he meant by "pissing...").

Advantages:
A. It's cheap.
B. You don't have to hold it while the bottle is filling.
C. You can "top off" your headspace by gently pushing the tip against
   the inside neck of the bottle.  I routinely leave a .5" headspace
   this way.

--
=Spencer W. Thomas 		|  Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704
   "Genome Informatician"	|  Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109
Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu	|  313-747-2778, FAX 313-764-4133
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Please explain hot and cold break to me.
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:27:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9508
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1993Jan8.192927.11653@kpc.com> atl@suzuki.kpc.com (Drew Lynch) writes:
>What are hot and cold break?  When do they happen? How do you tell if
>you "got a good one"? How do you "get a good one"?

The hot break is stuff that precipitates out during the boil.
The cold break is stuff that precipitates out when the wort is cooled.

I believe the hot break is caused by proteins being "denatured" (i.e.
hydrolyzed, i.e. cooked).  When that happens they become insoluble in
water.

As I recall, the cold break is caused by longer-chain protiens reacting with
phenolic compounds (tannins) from the grain husks to form some insoluble
stuff.

I may have scrambled those explanations up a little bit -- I don't have any
references availiable right here & now...

Hot and cold break are forces for good in the world, because they are the
precipitation of undesirable stuff out of your beer.  For instance, the same
kind of reaction that takes place in the cold break will otherwise take
place in the finished beer, resulting in chill haze.  (Does anybody know of
any other examples?)

You get a good hot break by means of a vigorous, rolling boil.  You get a
good cold break by using a wort-chiller.

Mucho del "trub" (junk settling out in the fermenter, but not the yeast) is
a sign that you "got a good one".
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Trisodiumphosphate (TSP)
Organization: Lachman Technology, Incorporated, Naperville, IL
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:56:21 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.130213.25459@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> dab@donner.cc.bellcore.com (ballard,david a) writes:
>In article <HAK-110193161757@fp1-cc-21.uoregon.edu> HAK@oregon.uoregon.edu writes:
>> >Is this the same TSP that painters use (ie. can I buy the stuff at the
>> >hardware store?) 
>> 
>> 
>
>
>tsp is great stuff.  i get it at the home depot in one-pound boxes 
>for less that two bucks per box.  i keep a big (32 gal?) garbage can 

Be forewarned, however.  There is a brand-name cleaning product called
"TSP" that contains _no_ phosphates.  So read the label.

Also, wear rubber gloves when working with the stuff.


-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              Lachman Technology, Incorporated
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
 __       There's nothing quite like the pitter-patter of little feet,
 \/                   followed by the words "Daddy!  Yay!"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: malodah@srv.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl)
Subject: Re: Microbrew?
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 20:48:25 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.134801.20289@Rapnet.Sanders.Lockheed.Com> fbruno@ysw526 (F. Bruno) writes:
>Can anyone tell me what is needed to start up a microbrewery, i.e.
>permits, taxes, whatever.

Please don't think I'm just "blowing you off", but this is a subject
that's really too big for a Usenet posting.  If you're seriously thinking
about doing this, and all those folks who said "you really should open
your own brewery" after tasting your homebrew are actually willing to
risk their own money in such a venture, then by all means sign up for
the course Dr. Michael Lewis gives a couple times a year on the subject,
through the U. C. Davis (California) Extension.  It's not cheap, but a
_lot_ cheaper than going broke in a flawed brewpub or microbrewery.  Many
have, including Lewis.  In addition to all the usual "challenges" that
face anyone starting up a business, there are a wide range of things that
are specific to a new brewery.  Learn all you can before you leap.



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: Larry.Lund@p12.f79.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Larry Lund)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: KETTLE MASHING
Date: 7 Jan 93 10:59:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.726468321.AA00000

To: arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM
 JS> This article was rejected by Zymurgy's editorial department
 JS> for some obscure reason, so I will post it here.

 JS>  
 JS>                            KETTLE MASHING
 JS>  
 JS>                           By Jack Schmidling
 JS>  
 JS>  Mashing and sparging in plastic buckets of one form or 


Jack, just a quick thanks for the time and effort you took to post this. I for
one appreciate and am adding it to my mash.txt file I am saving. Again thanks
8-)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: drumm@cnsvax.uwec.edu (Danny)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: a tad bit of cooking oil
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:46:07 -0600
Organization: University of Wisconsin Eau Claire



I think I have just a pinch of oil in my just bottled beer.
also, I must have lost a lot of my priming sugar along the way
because I get almost no fiz (and the oil must have what little 
head there would have been.)

Is there anything I can do?


Thanks much,

-- Danny
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (Me!! Ted.)
Subject: Source:  Where to get a large kettle?
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:02:59 GMT




	Where can one get a large enough kettle to brew a 5 gallon
batch of mead/brew?  I have tried local stores.  I have seen a
few 23 quart kettles and pots around my little city.  However,
that only leaves about 3/4 of a gallon of safety.  (5.75 gal cap.).
	What is a safe size kettle for a 5 gallon batch?  Should
I go ahead and fork over $30 for a 23 gal. Stainless kettle?  Or,
hold out and try to find a canning kettle?  (And,where does one
aquire one in a reasonable amount of time (2-3 weeks)?

Thanks

Ted




-- 
         Swallowing your pride rarely leads to indigestion.
         A hard thing about business is minding your own!
-trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu   &    trwagner@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu-
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: zamick@brushfire.rutgers.edu (Jonny the Z)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Kegging More and More
Date: 7 Jan 93 18:02:05 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Minimal

Ok.. called BCI talked a bit, and here are some prices for ya'all.

We put together a good basic package for kegging:
1 10lb CO2 cannister -reconditioned
1 5gal keg (pin or ball) with pull ring pressure valve -reconditioned
2 disconnects w/ barb fittings
1 2gauge HP regulator- NEW (supposedly :)
10ft Tubing
1 Single lead premix faucet

What is the price? $111.80    <--- No tax
UPS shipping is averaged to about $10-11
Kegs and Cannisters are guarenteed for 90days

Kegs are available in 3, 5, and 10 gal sizes
Cannisters can also be purchased in 5lb sizes for a savings of one
dollar.

One option for purchase is: a Y adaptor to attach 2 kegs. A Y-adaptor
costs 10.95

The $111.80 price tag doesn't include any reduction of costs as a
package, so feel free to pick and choose what you want. Its a toll
free number so its not even your dime :) I would have had them bump
the price down by 5 or 10 bucks but considering how low the costs
started I think they were giving us a pretty hot reduction to start
with.

One thing, they don't take credit cards so either they want a check
mailed or they can ship it COD which includes a $4 surcharge.

The phone number is: 800- 284-9410

------------------------

Breakdown of costs:

5 gal keg- 26.50	5lb CO2- 33.50		10lb CO2- 34.50
disconnects- 3.20/each	Regulator- 36.50	Y-adaptor- 10.95
Single tap- 4.40	Tubing .35/foot

----------------------

This is by far the least expensive place I found (with much help from
the net). However most everything is reconditioned and since some
people would prefer new items I'm going to keep doing a little
searching for the least expensive shining new package I can put
together.

(Me I'm going for reconditioned myself, student funds y'know.)

Jonathan Zamick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: My second batch - maybe
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:06:59 GMT

In article <4JAN199308390457@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov>
 focbjel@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (CHRIS BJELICA) writes:

>I think I may have "killed" my yeast before letting the wort
>cool down on my secon batch - a dark ale.  After I mixed
>the hot wort with the cold water, it was at about 84 degrees.
>I let it sit in my 63 degree basement for 2 hours, then I
>pitched my yeast.

Why do you think you killed your yeast?  What did you do to it?

>Anyway, this is day 3 without any activity in my air lock.

Not a good sign.

>Now that it has cooled down, should I pick up another package of
>yeast on the way home and toss it in?  Maybe make a yeast starter?
>and what will the "dead" yeast do to my brew?

The dead yeast shouldn't do anything to harm your brew.  Let's just hope 
that any contamination of the yeast is also dead.  

Basically, since homebrewers can't operate in a sterile environment, we have 
to simply overcome any possible infections with judicial sanitization and 
using plenty of the good yeast so it takes over before anything else does.  
So hurry up and add a lot of good yeast.

Another tip is to make sure your yeast is working well and doesn't smell 
infected before putting it in your beer.

>Or should I dump it and chaulk this one up to experience.  (I
>can't relax, I have to worry).

If it doesn't smell bad already or taste really sour or somesuch, it is 
quite likely salvageable.  Go for it!

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Racking to a secondary
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:07:11 GMT

In article <C0G4B2.Gs0@world.std.com>
 econrad@world.std.com (Cromwell) writes:

>What are the benefits of racking an ale or stout to a secondary carboy 
>before bottling?

OK, here are the benefits *I* get from racking to secondary.

1) I can wait an extra week or month before bottling and not worry, since 
   the beer is not sitting on all that trub in the primary.

2) It allows for more settling before the beer goes into the bottle, easily 
   ending up with much less bottle sediment.

3) It frees up my primary fermenter (7 gallon) for another brewing session a 
   few days later.

Seems like you don't need any of these except possibly #2.  But with a 
stout, who is going to notice if some sediment from the bottle gets in the 
glass?


John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: dark beer
Date: 8 Jan 1993 17:33:09 GMT
Organization: where?
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

> You will probably get some really good answers to your questions, but I will
> post mine anyway.  I too enjoy dark beers.  Lately I have been taken by oatmeal
> stouts.  The color (and possibly richness) seems to come from the black malt, 
> chocolate malt, and roasted barley that I put in.
>  
> Now if I can figure out why my pale ale is so dark when I only used chrystal malt
> (40 degrees L) and some light dry malt extract.

Probably because of excessive heat in your boil, causing
caramelization.  A good, rolling boil is necessary for good
hop utilization, but don't overdo it.  Also, you may be boiling
it too long - extracts need about 60 minutes.  If you are boiling
longer this may be the cause.

Rick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: julie@eddie.jpl.nasa.gov (Julie Kangas)
Subject: Re: weizen yeast=Delbruckii
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Pasadena, CA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:29:44 GMT

In article <binkley.726866225@beagle> binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley) writes:
>Jim's article was indeed an eye-opener.
>
>I've been using the Wyeast Bavarian strain with mixed results.
>
>Actually, the most weizen-like, estery beer I've made was
>an accident; I was trying to make a Belgian style Wit, using
>the Wyeast Belgian strain, but fermented too warm.  Had the last
>bottle last night, and throughout it's life it tasted more and
>more like a Bavarian Weizen.
>
>This may be a good alternative to the mixed cerevisea/delbruekii
>culture, for those of us who don't have access to the Weihestephan
>strains.

My first batch (I'm only on my second one now) was a wheat beer
with the Wyeast Bavarian strain.  I was very disappointed at
first.  I mean, the beer tasted great and everybody loved it,
but it lacked the clovey taste.  That was four months ago, and
the few bottles I have left are developing more of a spicey
"bite" to them.  I would have like for that spice taste to
be there at the start though.  (It's still not real apparent.)
What temperature did you ferment at?

I heard that MeV had a pure delbruekii strain.  Does anyone know
about this or tried it?  I'm not sure if I can get it for my next 
wheat beer batch, but I'd like to look into it.

Julie
DISCLAIMER:  All opinions here belong to my cat and no one else
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: re: weizen yeast=Delbruckii
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 23:16:43 GMT

From article <busch.726791924@news.gsfc.nasa.gov>, by busch@daacdev1.stx.com:
> 
> I have brewed numerous Bavarian HefeWeizens and WeizenBocks using a 
> SINGLE CELL CULTURE of Weinhenstephan Weizen yeast and can attest to 
> the ability of a single cell culture to produce both the Banana ester
> and the phenols that are so important to the style.  Also note that
> Eric Warner won the AHA nationals last year with a Weizen produced from
> a culture of a bottle of Moy Weizen, dosed with a lager strain for 
> bottle conditioning.
> 
> Jim Busch
> 

Thanks for the information, Jim.  I have a copy of one of your postings
a few months back (either here or on the HBD) where you recommend using
the Weihenstephan yeast.  Unfortunately, it was unavailable when I lasted
brewed a weizen and I had to settle for the Wyeast strain.  The result
was a very bland, American wheat style beer with very little cloviness.
I recommended trying the Chimay yeast sediment because that was the
yeast Harry Clayton of the Underground Brewers used to ferment the weizen
that won the 1992 AHA "Weiss is Nice" Club Only Competition.  I have no
idea if it is a single strain of S. Cerevesiae though.

Scott
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: weizen yeast=Delbruckii
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 12 Jan 93 19:17:05 GMT

Jim's article was indeed an eye-opener.

I've been using the Wyeast Bavarian strain with mixed results.

Actually, the most weizen-like, estery beer I've made was
an accident; I was trying to make a Belgian style Wit, using
the Wyeast Belgian strain, but fermented too warm.  Had the last
bottle last night, and throughout it's life it tasted more and
more like a Bavarian Weizen.

This may be a good alternative to the mixed cerevisea/delbruekii
culture, for those of us who don't have access to the Weihestephan
strains.

Jon Binkley


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: wolo@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Greg Wolodkin)
Subject: Leaving trub in the brewpot
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:55:41 GMT

The "racking to secondary" topic has progressed into a discussion
on the various places where one can leave the trub -- an interesting
thread.  When it comes to leaving the hot (and cold, if you're using
an immersion chiller as I do) break in the brewpot, though, how does
the rest of the net deal with whole hops?  Seems to me there's a 
conflict -- do I leave the trub behind or do I sparge the hops in 
order to extract the malt sugars they hold?  

Thus far I've been sparging the hops with about a half-gallon of cold
brewing water (and leaving nothing in the brewpot), pitching, waiting 
for the trub to settle (4-6 hours), and racking into primary.  I'd be 
interested to hear of other methods that have or haven't worked well.

Gak! Arf! Gob!
Greg
From: amazon@sgi.com (Stormwind)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: "Green" Beer
Date: 11 Jan 93 14:56:30 GMT
Organization: X Industries, Heavy Weapons R&D

(John DeCarlo) writes:
>I brewed a recent batch of beer using Hallertauer hops.  My local homebrew
>shop carried these hops compressed into nuggets about 1 1/2 in. in diameter
>and about 1/2 to 3/4 in. thick.  

these are the same type of hops that
i've used.

>I used one of Papazian's recipes which
>called for 3 to 3 1/2 oz. of Hallertauer for boiling (45 min) and 1/2 oz. 
>for finishing (additional 5 min of boiling), and 6 lbs. of light dry malt 
>extract, and lager yeast.  

which recipe was this?

>I also tasted 
>some of the beer and it tasted rather "green".  Now, will this 
>"greenishness" subside after I prime (I plan to prime with malt) or will I 
>be stuck with 5 gal. of beer that taste like lawn clippings?  

it should age out after you've bottled
it and let it sit for a while.  i used
the hallertauer hops in one of my recent
batches (it was either the aussie lager,
or the who's in the garden grand cru,
maybe both) and noticed that all of them
aged out very nicely.  

on the other hand, i was not particularly
pleased with the aussie lager, as it would
appear to be the most boring brew i've 
created so far.  zero character, as compared
to the honey beers i've been making.

			stormwind

			hell's amazon
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: us279764@mmm.serc.3m.com (Philip . Miller)
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Organization: 3M Company
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 17:47:26 GMT

 I remember reading a post from Jack in the HBD a while back that
 basically said "Everybody seems to use the picnic cooler mash method
 because that's what Papazian advocates in his book".  Since I was
 thinking of getting into all grain at the time, I actually reread the
 chapter on mashing in TNCJOHB to check it out.  Jack's most recent
 posting contains a statement in a similar vein in his first paragraph
 which jogged my memory.

 To wit:  Although Papazian MENTIONS picnic cooler mashing (and has a
 picture of one in his book) he actually advocates mashing in a kettle.
 Papazian (and Miller, for that matter) cite the lack of ease of raising
 the mash temperature in the cooler as its major draw back.  Papazian
 then goes on (in quite some depth) to describe step infusion mashing
 (or kettle mashing ala Jack) and describes how to make the Zapap lauter
 tun.

 So, Jack your rather pointed barb at Papazian's book missed the mark
 completely.  You really ought to read it sometime.

 Now you'll have to come up with a different conspiracy theory to
 explain why so many homebrewers mash in picnic coolers.  I'll give you
 a hint:  Gott and Igloo are puppet corporations of the Trilateral
 Commission and the Free Masons.  I'd tell you more, but I'm late for a
 secret meeting with my cell from the Bavarian Illuminati.

 Phil
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Make you go blind? (was: Re: homebrew cop tv)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 12:23:07 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1993Jan6.170720.27250@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral) writes:
) In article <1993Jan6.123356.2320@eng.ufl.edu> fortner@hal.eng.ufl.edu (Dave Fortner) writes:
) >The problem that you have is that distillation can create Isopropyl 
) >alcohol if there is any woody type material in the mash. I suspect that
) >if you distill a mash which has the grain husks in it, you will get
) >the Isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Drinking IPA can cause blindness and/or death.a
) >Another name for IPA is Rubbing Alcohol.
)
) I believe you get methanol, not isopropyl.  Methanol is otherwise known as
) wood alcohol. FYI, rubbing alcohol is not another name for isopropyl.  Rubbing
) alcohol is usually 70%ipa/30%water.  Another name for isopropyl is propanol.

You don't get methanol from fermenting beer!  Does the phrase "destructive
distillation of wood" ring a bell anywhere?

Isopropanol is also known as 2-propanol.  Isopropanol is not particularly
poisonous.  The label says "severe gastric disturbances."  You throw
up, you need your stomach pumped, etc.  Kitty Dukakis made out OK
after she took a draught of it.  I don't think its LD50 is all
that much different than that of ethanol, and it might actually be
less.  After all, several hundred ml of ethanol can be lethal.

Methanol IS poisonous, and will cause blindness, death, etc.  In the
days before crack, folks used to drink Sterno.  Thus there's quite
a bit of data on the effects of methanol on the human body.  I believe
that methanol has irreversible cumulative effects ....

On to distilling.  Can someone out there explain the adsorptive mechanism
of activated charcoal to me?  I've never understood how it works.

================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.
From: davidp@snoopy.ds.boeing.com (David P. Peden)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Beer at Sporting Events ...
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:25:29 GMT
Organization: Avionics Integration, Boeing Defense & Space, Seattle


Since we seem to be talking about alot of unrelated topics besides brewing.
I just finished purchasing season tickets for the Seattle Mariners Baseball
games with a group of people, and was thinking back to the best part
of the 1992 season. The Kingdome serves Redhook ESB (Redhook Microbrewry)
along with about 8 different Bud,Miller,Micholob,Ranier...
I was wondering if any of the other major Sporting Stadiums had good 
beer on tap... 

+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   David Peden                    at davidp@woodstock.ds.boeing.com |
|   Boeing Defense & Space Group                                     |
|   Seattle,WA                        Tail Hook Ale Brewing Co.  :)  | 
+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing