HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Forget hatching brine shrimp, new question.
Date: 4 Jan 93 20:35:02 GMT
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Gregory Frazier (frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu) wrote:
: As for the daphnia question, if you don't need them in large
: quantities, they can be raised in any fishtank...
: and it would hurt to have a largish fish in the tank
         not  ^
: (you want the fish to be too large to be real intersted in the daphnia).

Sorry about leaving out the negative...

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: tac@rena.inesc.pt (Telmo A. Carmo)
Subject: little green turtle
Organization: INESC
Distribution: alt.aquaria
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 13:35:11 GMT


Hello

First of all I apologize if this is not the right newsgroup
to ask the following questions.

I have received as a present a little green turtle.

I would like any tips about the cares I should have with her
(how often to change the water, how often to feed her, etc...).

Someone told me that they only live for some months, is this true?

	Thanks for any info.

	Telmo
--
=============================================================================
Telmo Carmo -- tac@inesc.pt           | 'Old programmers never die,
Tel: +351-1-3100085 FAX: 351-1-525843 |  they just branch to another address'
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Tiny-FAQ for alt.binaries.pictures
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 01:14:12 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.080349.12384@zooid.guild.org> Lynda Fincham <gaea@zooid.guild.org> writes:
>
>Well, here's my idea of a basic FAQ for alt.binaries.pictures:

Thanks!

>
>To save a picture from a *.binaries group using TRN (or RN), just use "s" or
>"w", TRN will automatically append new files on the end. Once you've got all
>the pieces in one file, remove all the headers and gunk at the top (including
>description) so it's one big binary file. Then type "uudecode filename" where

How does one edit a binary file?


>filename is the name you gave the binary file. It will unencode itself into
>whatever file the person wanted it to be called. Then you can view it.
>There is another way to get the file back together, you can save each
>individual posting to sequential files, and then run a program called "uucat"
>on them to remove the header, and pipe it to uudecode (ie "uucat picture1
>picture2 picture3 picture4 | uudecode").
>


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student 		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: [M] Lighting
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:30:47 GMT

In article <1ih5u6INNem9@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ck983@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Robert J. Cardinali) writes:
>In a previous article, cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan) says:
>>The tank has corals and other inverts.  Is my choice of double fixture and 
>>light adequate?
>
>In my 29 gallon salt tank, I use one Grow-Lux 20 watt, and two Sylvania
>soft-white bulbs.  I had bad luck with the actinic, actually...my hair
>algae went wild, and all of my calurpa died off rapidly.  I returned to
>the Grow-Lux, and everything normalized in about 2 months.  I agree that
>you definitely need more light for any anenome/plant activity.  Once upon
>a time, I had three soft whites burning on this tank, but over time found
>that two were adequate in conjunction with the Gro-Lux.  Hope this helps.

   Do you have a fish tank or reef tank.  Never heard anyone had
trouble w/ actinic. Actinic in reef is pretty much written in the
Bible.  I am almost certain your algae & calurpa problem is due to
something else other then actinic light.  29g tanks are a pain to light.
I light my 29g reef with 2 HO actinic, and 2 40W compact flourescents,
more then enough.  With odd size tank like that, I will actually
consider using MH, UltraMarine makes a 70W MH.  If I were to do
it over, I probably go with 70W MH, if nothing else, it's a lot cheaper.

-Anthony
From: pls20@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: [M][R] Glass or Plexi Tank for 100+g Reef Setup?
Date: 5 Jan 93 16:41:51 GMT
Reply-To: pls20@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com ()
Distribution: alt
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA


   I've read all the pros and cons on which type of tank is the "best"
for a reef setup, but I'd like some first hand comments, stories,
recommendations. (I've only owned Plexi up 'til now.) Is the extra
sturdiness and scratch resistance of glass worth the extra weight
in the long run?  Would the cutouts in the top of a Plexi tank have
to be enlarged to accomodate HQI lighting? As of now, it looks as if
I'll only have to drill 2 holes in the bottom of the tank to
handle the corner overflow and the water return.
                                                 Thanks for the help,

                                                              Phil
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: question regarding salt H2O
From: surf@netlink.cts.com (Tony Rosa)
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 03:21:12 PST
Organization: NetLink Online Communications, San Diego CA

A question to all you experienced aquarian's.  Here's the problem.  I 
have a saltwater tank.  Since I live here on the west coast I get natural 
filtered sea water.  This works very well but I have to travel 15 miles 
each way to get it.  The problem is not getting the h2o but keeping the 
extra.  I have some frozen in gallon bottles in my freezer.  Can this 
water be stored safetly?  It will just save a couple of trips so I only 
have to go every two water changes instead of every time.  Your thoughts 
and opinions are appreciated. * \
                              * /
tr

--                    
INTERNET:  surf@netlink.cts.com (Tony Rosa)
UUCP:   ...!ryptyde!netlink!surf
NetLink Online Communications * Public Access in San Diego, CA (619) 453-1115
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6526 rec.aquaria:9973 misc.consumers:21874
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Subject: Re: [M][R] Sources for Calcium Supplements
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date:  8 Jan 1993 15:05 EDT  

In article <ANCONA.93Jan7124347@wpi.WPI.EDU>, ancona@wpi.WPI.EDU (James P Ancona) writes...
>A while back there was some discussion here of using Calcium Chloride 
>Dihydrate as a calcium supplement for reef tanks.  I tried calling several
>chemical supply houses in the area, and no one carries it (at least not in
>reagent grade, as was suggested in the articles).  Can anyone suggest a source
>that will deal by mail, and in the quantities (~ 1 kg) a hobbiest might want?
> 
>Thanks!
> 
>--
>Jim Ancona                       |   I used to get disgusted,

 If you lived near me, Cleveland Ohio, I could get you some.  I have 
a lot of it.  Try  Hach Chemical Company at 1 800 227 4224. 

Greg
From: rougier@irit.fr (Rougier)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Books
Date: 6 Jan 93 11:52:44 GMT
Organization: IRIT-UPS, Toulouse FRANCE

orry to waste bandwith, but I couldn't find the 
answer to my question in the faq.
I'm a FAMA subscriber, and I saw ads in Mail order companies, for books
in which I'm very interested. Could someone explain how I can order these books from France ?
In fact, these companies never say what are delivery charges
for foreign countries (I mean other than contiguous US)
I want books about reef tanks, and a good invertebrates manual.
Could you give me your opinion about
which are the best ? You can reply by email
Thanks very much
Vincent Rougier     rougier@irit.fr

*q
:



:q

-- 
__________________________________________
| Vincent Rougier, IRIT Toulouse, France |
------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Subject: Re: Skilter restart problem
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
Date:  6 Jan 93 01:32:18 GMT


thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong) writes:

: >philt@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (philip.tomaskovic) writes:

: >Has anyone else had problems with a Supreme Skilter restarting after
: >a power outage? 


: Mine will almost never start after a brown out.  The propeller has
: to be manually kick started, otherwise it just sits there and hum,
: but doesn't turn.  When it was new it restarted ok, now I avoid
: unplugging it at all cost, even when I'm doing maintenance on it.


If you have a magnet, (algae magnets work well) just take the magnet
and put it next to the motor and move it around a bit.  This usually
starts up a sluggish powerhead I have.

--tom

--
	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu


 Anything that is good and useful is made of chocolate.
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6534 rec.aquaria:9989
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Poor Man's Canister Filter
Date: 13 Jan 93 01:51:37 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> Here is an idea I have been thinking about for a while.  (A very similar
> one was provided in the Dec TFH)  It is pretty simple:
> 
> Take 2 Aquaclear filter.  Operate one as a mechanical/ chemical
> filtration as you would normally.  Take the other and make it
> function solely as a biologic filter.  This is done by attaching a
> small sponge filter to the intake tube.  (I saw one well suited for
> this in Tropical Fish Hobbyist magazine.  It is called the Filter
> Max pre filter, available mail order from Daleco Master Breeders
> (219) 747-7376 for 6 or 7 dollars.)  The filter box is then filled
> with biofilter medium.  You would rinse the sponge on a regular
> basis but never change the bio media.   
> 
> I quesstimate the size of the filters together should equal the
> output of a regular filter ie if you were going to use a Aquaclear
> 400 use two Aquaclears 200's or a 100 and 300. 
> 
> This system provides the same volume of contact with filter medias as a
> canister filter but with a much greater tank turnover.  For example,
> in the case of a 29 gallon I would use two Aquaclear mini's set up
> as described. This set up would cost you about $30 mail order.  I
> figure it would work as well as a Hagen Biolife wet/dry 35 which cost
> about $80 mail order.

The only thing I wonder is, abou the boi-unit/half, I tried to do something
similar with my Dynaflo3 (Almost the same as an Aquaclear/without the removable
media basket) and I used regular aquarium gravel as the prospective bio-media.

The water-current from the impeller ended up making a lot of noise by
constantly swishing the gravel around in the media-box.  And even so, most of
the current would flow up and over most of the gravel, so I don't think most of
the madia had good contact with the water.

Would the unique media basket concentrate enough of the water current to
underneath the madia to avoid the racket of swirling gravel?

				-Matt
From: ssakaki@farad.elee.calpoly.edu (Steven Kenneth Sakaki)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: oscar pigments...
Date: 8 Jan 93 08:21:14 GMT
Organization: Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo


	can anyone tell me why oscars change their pigment intensity...
	is it due to water temperature, light, etc...

	i have a red and a tiger oscar...
	for some reason they're a green-grey...
	at times they are colored an intense black...

	thanks...

	ssakaki@farad.elee.calpoly.edu
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6496 rec.aquaria:9908
From: putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu (David Matthew Putzolu)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Mail order live/base rock experiences
Date: 9 Jan 93 03:14:19 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: The University of California at Davis
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17
X-XXMessage-ID: <A77383028401FD28@lestat.ucdavis.edu>
X-XXDate: Fri, 8 Jan 93 19:14:10 GMT

In article  Dave Sheehy, dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com writes:
>Tom McCain (tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu) wrote:
> 
>> Can anyone tell me of any source that you've had good luck mail
>> ordering reef rock from? 

>I've had good luck with Exotic Aquaria's rock.
I'll second that. I ordered from Exotic Aquaria over three months ago and
the rock I got from them still amazes me. Just today I discovered two sea
urchins & a chiton that I hadn't seen before. The rock is very well
encrusted with corallines, caulerpas, and other sorts of algaes. There
was (and is) a large amount of small livestock. I'd recommend Exotic
Aquaria wholeheartedly.

"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and
 bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against
 tyranny in government." - Thomas Jefferson
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6528 rec.aquaria:9978 sci.aquaria:1865
From: larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com (Larisa Stephan)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Origin of fish diseases
Keywords: where do they come from?
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:39:34 GMT
Reply-To: larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co. ADS/EOS Electronics Lab

Does anyone have a good idea of where fish diseases originate?
Do wild populations suffer from these ailments as do our captive
animals?  Are the spores in our domestic water supply?  Did they
migrate from their natural hosts to captive fish, whereas in
nature they would always attack something else?  Etc., etc.?

This has been bothering me, especially when I collect ocean water
and wonder what I could be pouring in on top of my (one) fish.  I
still put it in raw, however, to help preserve larval animals which
I want to encourage to grow in my tank.

As a side note, what is known about diseases of invertebrates,
especially whether they can contract fish diseases?

-- Larisa
larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com
From: thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Skilter restart problem
Date: 4 Jan 93 23:51:02 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: tyres.asd.sgi.com

In article <1993Jan4.213715.5832@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> philt@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (philip.tomaskovic) writes:
>
>Has anyone else had problems with a Supreme Skilter restarting after
>a power outage? 
>

Mine will almost never start after a brown out.  The propeller has
to be manually kick started, otherwise it just sits there and hum,
but doesn't turn.  When it was new it restarted ok, now I avoid
unplugging it at all cost, even when I'm doing maintenance on it.

On the other hand, I'm very happy with its performance, I posted
the note about adding an airstone and a skimmer overflow drain
over a year ago, but I've stopped bothering with the airstone,
and reverted back to using the venturi, which works well enough,
and is not loud enough to bother me now that I have the tank
in the living room.

/tom
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Different laterite brands (Was: Keeping plants alive.... how?!?)
Date: 5 Jan 93 19:18:00 GMT
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1993Jan5.153436.15221@brtph560.bnr.ca> bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:
[...]
-->I have used AP laterite plugs for well over a year in my 55G tank
-->without having it cloud the water.  I ground up some plugs (20 of
-->them, each about a cubic inch in volume) into the bottom third of the
-->gravel, and occasionally stick some plugs into the gravel.  Even when
-->I expose the laterite plugs while uprooting plants, I can simply
-->vacuum them up.  Whatever is left in suspension clears up in minutes.
-->By the way, the filtration in this tank is provided by a Magnum 220
-->(no micron cartridge) and a small Fluval internal canister.

-->Shaji.
-->-- 
-->++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
-->Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 

I have used AP laterite for over a year in my 100g tank. It is true that
it will cloud the water at first, for several days in my case.
I have a trickle filter and a Magnum 220 on this tank. My wife
placed some in her 27g tank filtered with a powerhead and Tetra
PHAS II sponge filter. It also took a few days to settle there.

After that I never had a problem. Occasionally, I'd uproot a plant
and a streak of red  would follow, but it would soon settle.

The AP plugs are pure laterite clay, clay is made of munite particles -
inevitably it could disperse.

I have used the Duplrit laterite powder in the lower 1/3 substrate of
7 other smallish tanks. There is never any cloudiness from that.

As far as I can tell, there is no essential difference between them
that the plants seem to care about - both work well for me.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Forget hatching brine shrimp, new question.
Date: 5 Jan 93 22:21:02 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
>As for the daphnia question, if you don't need them in large
>quantities, they can be raised in any fishtank.

I have them breeding in fine in "non-crop" quantities in fry cultures
and other containers, but I may not have enough light and/or
fertilizers to generate green water.  I managed to get a 1 gal jar full
of snails to generate some in the summer, but it's been clear for the
last 3 months and it wasn't enough to sustain a healthy crop of daphnia
even at its peak.  My attempts to use yeast in the indoor culture had
almost always resulted in a disaster.  (For the record, I was able to
produce plenty of green water and daphnia outdoors during the summer,
but the height of the sun is nolonger sufficient to keep the water
green or warm enough to let daphnia thrive).

My attempts to force any water to bloom *indoors* have so far failed.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Nords
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:34:56 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.020808.29592@news2.cis.umn.edu> tnnguyen@marcus.cs.umn.edu (Trung N. Nguyen) writes:
>In article <1993Jan06.121722.3686@Veritas.COM> oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>>montana@pinetree.org (David Wong) writes:
>>>Are there any contact here for the Quebec Nordiques?
>>
>>Are they fresh water or marine Nords?
>
>Probably marine Nords since they come from Quebec.

   Do they do well in reef tanks??

-Anthony
From: Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: water change
Date: 9 Jan 93 02:25:38 GMT
Reply-To: Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey)
X-Posting-Software: UniBoard 1.10a S/N 202921

I just wanted to share my experiences. I am not arguing with people's
philosophies about water changing, but I simply do not do it. I have had my
55 gallon tank with non-african cichlids in it. I haven't changes the water
in over 3 years. Casualties: ZERO! I have had my 10 gallon community tank
for about 10 months. No water change. Casualties: ZERO!. My african cichlid
tank is over 2 months old. No water changes, no casualties. ZERO oom ammonia
in all tanks. 7.5 pH in African tank, 7.0 in community, upper 6's in 55
gallon tank. I add about a gallon a month to each tank from evaporation.
From: thompson@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: [ALL] Fishy GIFs....
Date: 6 Jan 93 11:25:24 CST
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

Greetings....
     If anyone has any interesting GIFs of fish, corals, inverts, etc., could
you please E-mail them to me?  I'm mainly interested in Marine GIFs......

Thanks in Advance!

-John

|----------------------------------------------------------------| 
| John S. Thompson         | thompson@ukanvm.cc.ukans.edu        |
| University of Kansas     | thompson@ukanvax.cc.ukans.edu       |
| > They call me SkiBum <  | 32 bit OS/2 2.0 is for you!         |
|----------------------------------------------------------------|


Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: almaguer@swallow.cis.ohio-state.edu (alejandro almaguer)
Subject: NEED tech. info on H. Obliquidan
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 20:37:22 GMT



I need any info or sources that anybody has on Haplochromis Obliquidans.

This is an African Cichlid from Lake Victoria.  I have a male and two females.
One female just produced 22 fry for me a couple of weeks ago and the other
(very young) female is carrying. 

My problem is this... I cannot find any research based info on this species.
The aquarium stores in Columbus, OH say that there is no info in the
form of a book.  

I really need info such as:


	pH
	feeding habits -what kind(s) of food(s)
	spawning habits
	
and anything else that you can assist me with.

Please email any info that you may have available.

This is a DESPARATE PLEA!!!!!!  

Thanks in advance,
Alejandro E. Almaguer

almaguer@cis.ohio-state.edu
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Goldfish woes (LONG)
Date: 8 Jan 1993 16:53:05 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

I would not try to alter the pH. 7.4 is not a bad pH for
goldfish and the attempt to change it and keep it stable
at some other pH may stress the fish.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Subject: Re: Goldfish woes (LONG)
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:44:30 GMT



	One other thing...  you could have some bad chemicals in your water.
	Has anyone been spraying furniture polishes or air fresheners around
	the tank?  Is it tightly sealed?

	Mike
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6466 rec.aquaria:9881
From: ancona@wpi.WPI.EDU (James P Ancona)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: [M][R] Sources for Calcium Supplements
Date: 7 Jan 93 12:43:47
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Worcester, MA 01609-2280
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu

A while back there was some discussion here of using Calcium Chloride 
Dihydrate as a calcium supplement for reef tanks.  I tried calling several
chemical supply houses in the area, and no one carries it (at least not in
reagent grade, as was suggested in the articles).  Can anyone suggest a source
that will deal by mail, and in the quantities (~ 1 kg) a hobbiest might want?

Thanks!

--
Jim Ancona                       |   I used to get disgusted,
ancona@wpi.wpi.edu               |      Now I try to be amused...
Opinions expressed are my own!   |         -- Elvis Costello