HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hrt@utne.aosg.gsf.dec.com (Henry R. Tumblin AOSG)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Fire Place Mantel.
Date: 17 Dec 92 14:14:35 GMT
Reply-To: hrt@aosg.gsf.dec.com
Organization: AOSG

If you're looking for ideas, see if you have a local wrecking company. They will
salvage mantles and other architectural woodwork and sell it back to you. Most
are willing to haggle on the price.

/Henry
--
Henry R. Tumblin                        OSF/1 AXP
enet: hrt@aosg.gsf.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke)
Subject: Re: Aging Cherry and finishes
Organization: University of Central Florida
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 14:28:27 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.232704.29079@intellistor.com> grun@intellistor.com (Paul  
Grun) writes:
> Anyway, does the type of finish used
> affect the natural aging of cherry?  As I understand it,
> cherry will continue to age and deepen in color for some time
> after the piece is finished, right?  I can clearly imagine this
> happening with an oil finish, but does it also occur if the
> finish is laquer?  What about poly?  Wiping varnish?  Water
> based finish?  

I finished some cherry bedroom pieces with Carver Tripp
water-based poly about 4 months ago.  They are in a bedroom
but get indirect sunlight in the morning.  They seem to be
darkening - my wife notices it more than I do.  The darkening
of cherry is supposed to be due to light, not oxidation, so 
I decided to try the poly since I like its immunity to spills
and water stains etc.  No stain just poly.

Check back in a year for a further report.

--
Thomas Clarke
Institute for Simulation and Training, University of Central FL
12424 Research Parkway, Suite 300, Orlando, FL 32826
(407)658-5030, FAX: (407)658-5059, clarke@acme.ucf.edu
From: John.Polhemus@p909.f70.n109.z1.fidonet.org (John Polhemus)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Scroll Sawing
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:21:59 -0500

Sorry I have not replied to your NetMail yet. 

As soon as I get my orders out and some time to download the instructions for
using the gateway I'll get back to you. 

Later, JP
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Subject: Beginner Question on Planing
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 08:30:33 GMT

I only have one plane, it's a little Stanley block plane (I think) with
about a 2" wide blade.  After reading this newsgroup for the past several
weeks, I figured that my plane wasn't really the best, so I started sharpening
it.  My stones are all pretty crummy, too, so I used 400 and 600 wet/dry paper
on a sheet of glass, with oil.  I ground the sole of the plane flat(ter), ditto
the back of the blade.  Then I went to work on the edge, and I think I did
reasonably well for a no-jig sharpening job (I ordered the Veritas jig last
night from Woodcraft, so I should be able to get it really good with that).

The plane now works very much better than it did, I get a full-width curl the
length of the board.  I've been making some new bathroom cabinets
so I am putting it to good use.

Finally, my question:  What is the proper technique for planing a board that
is wider than the blade of the plane?  I tried a few methods, with some
success, but I assume that there is a standard "right way" to do it (unless
the "right way" is not to do it at all, just buy a bigger plane, which at the
moment I can't do).

Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, California

badboy@netcom.com



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Piano kits & CD scratches
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 18:01:08 GMT

asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:

>Gee, sort of like the question, "I'm building a full size replica of the
>Great Pyramid, are there any kits available?"  Sorry, as a strictly amateur
>woodworker, and a slightly less amateur musician, I couldn't resist.  I 
>admire the ambition, but I'm still laughing all over my office at the
>image of the UPS delivery guy trying to get that 1200 pound piece of 
>cast iron into your mailbox when he delivers your piano kit.
>  
>Oh, and about the CD scratch--if a guy can afford a CD player in his car,
>can't he afford a new CD?  I'm sorry, I'm sorry, I'm still laughing at
>the piano kit, I sincerely wish the piano builder the best of luck.
>Wait until my woodworking club hears about this one...

Ok, OK,!  I said in my original post that I didn't know *anything* about piano
making.  Obviously, I have never looked inside of one to see the 1200 pound cast
iron thing or the strings that are holding "20 tons" of force.  I thought it was a
much simpler device, and I never realized there was major engineering involved.  I
have received numerous messages about the folly of this pursuit, although many
people have been encouraging, nonetheless.  Some of the better proposals:

Buy a used, trashed piano and build the new piano around the old parts.
Build a dulcimer instead
Just buy a used piano, they are cheap
Refinish/partially rebuild an old piano

Many people pointed out that piano tuning is not a trivial thing, and requires
special tools and skills.  Also, some pointed out that you should never buy a used
piano without getting it checked out by a piano technician.  I think this is really
good advice.  

Thanks for cluing me in, and special thanks to those who actually gave me
encouragement for what is probably a foolish endeavour.  You will be glad to know
that I have decided to make a wooden tuba instead. :)

ak


-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"There are also persistant rumors that IBM will soon offer a hard-disk drive, 
an expensive accessory that only a businessman would want..."
--- Popular Computing, December 1981
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center
Date: Tuesday, 15 Dec 1992 13:17:18 EST
From: <EMDJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: CMT VS. FREUD Router Bits

Does anybody happen to know anything about these CMT router bits ?  Are they
any good? And how do they compare to Freud Bits?
Thanks in advance.
Daniel Schlissel
From: sak@geosc.psu.edu (Sridhar Anandakrishnan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: general finishing info -- FAQ??
Date: 16 Dec 92 15:32:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: igloo.SAK.92Dec16103241
Distribution: usa
Organization: Geosciences Dept., Penn State Univ., University Park, PA, USA

Hi, this is probably a FAQ, but I can't seem to find it there, so here
I go.

I just built a maple dining room table -- my first big project, and
the only one that must stand any abuse.  I am sanding it now, and
realize that I will have to decide on a finish soon!

I was considering just putting on 3 coats of polyurethane (Carver
Tripp or Minwax is what I see in my hardware store), but some people
think that would impart too "hard" and "soulless" a look to the wood.
They think some oil should go on first.  It is bewildering the variety
and range of finish products out there.  

I want something that won't cover up the maple color (it is a
beautiful small-pore white), but will enhance the grain _a little_.
And be protective.

Any help will be much appreciated.  The library here has books mainly
from the 60's and 70'sand I can't seem to find a mapping from what
they talk about to what is in the hardware stores!

I will summarize to the net.

Sridhar. (sak@essc.psu.edu)
From: dricejb@drilex.dri.mgh.com (Craig Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Date: 19 Dec 92 15:28:24 GMT
Organization: DRI/McGraw-Hill, Lexington, MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

One other note in the scraping vs sanding/work-ethic debate:

Only the finest work of 300 years ago survives.  Most of the utilitarian stuff
was thrown out.
-- 
Craig Jackson -- cjackson@mgh.com (Straight Internet)
dricejb@drilex.dri.mgh.com (uucp-forwarded)
{bbn,alliant,redsox}!drilex!{dricej,dricejb}
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: porcelli@trabs.serum.kodak.com (Rocco Porcelli (x69853))
Subject: Re: WoodSmith dovetail jig
Reply-To: porcelli@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Clinical Diagnostics Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 14:56:40 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.204430.7453@b11.b11.ingr.com>, jazz@jazz.b11.ingr.com (Jeff Roberts) writes:
|> I'm considering ordering issue #58 of WoodSmith and building their
|> dovetail jig, mostly because people here said they liked it and it's
|> a cheap way to go.  But first I'm trying to add up the cost.  I called
|> WoodSmith and asked about the cost of the hardware kit ($34.95) but
|> the lady I spoke with couldn't tell me if I would also need to buy a
|> bushing for my router.
|> 
|> Could some kind soul with issue #58 tell me if I need a bushing to go
|> with my 1/2" dovetail and what size they specify if so?

>Jeff,
>As requested, per Woodsmith #58:
>You will need to get your own 7/8" outside diameter guide bushing to fit
>your router.  Start with a dealer who carries accessories for your router.
>If no luck, a universal bushing set is available from: Woodcraft Supply Corp,
>800-225-1153, "Router Guide Bushing Set", with universal base plate, Order
>No. 11V12. (Note that above info is from a 4 year old Woodsmith.)

>More Woodsmith kit price info:
>kit #58E	Dovetail Jig Parts Kit			$34.95
		(All hardware needed including template)
>kit #58F	Dovetail Jig Parts and Wood Kit		$54.95
		(kit 58E plus all the wood (hard maple) needed
>kit #58G	Dovetail Template			$24.95
		(Just the plastic "comb" template)
>kit #58H	1/2" (1/4" shank) carbide dovetail bit	$15.75

>Looks like you could do the whole thing for less than $75.00.
>That's a far cry less than the cost of Porter Cable's or Leigh's jig.

>Note that it will only cut half-blind dovetails.

>If you build it, please let me know how it turns out (building problems,
>use, etc.).

>If anyone has built and used one, please let me know what you think.
>It would be perfect if someone has USED both the Woodsmith jig and
>either the Porter-Cable Omni-jig or the Leigh and could compare results.


>Steve Garcia
>     (415) 688-7642)
>     <sgarcia@cisco.com>


Steve,

I built this jig a couple of years ago.  I had a guy in the machine shop at work mill up the comb for me out of lexan.  The jig sat around my basement for awhile because the 1/4" collet on my PC router wouldn't hold the dovetail bit.  I finally bought a new collet (this one is a 2 slot collet as opposed to the original 1 slot collet).  I was building cupboards for my new kitchen and decided to dovetail all the drawers.  I spent some time getting the jig set up accurately and I ended up getting great result





s.  I can't imagine any bought jig doing any better on half blind dovetails.  I wouldn't attempt to make the comb myself but the rest of the jig is pretty easy to make.  If you don't have a bandsaw it might be difficult to make the locking cams.

If you have any specific questions or want more information about it post or e-mail me.

Rocco Porcellio
Eastman Kodak Co.
Rochester, NY


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <UKA004@ukcc.uky.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Dec 1992 10:31:37 EST
From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Router to rough turn chair legs
              11 Dec 1992 00:16:55 GMT from <gcohen@MAILER.CC.FSU.EDU>

Watch it when you reverse the lathe.  There have been some major
injuries from chucks, etc. coming off the spindle.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: Anyone ever use Watco finishes?
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 14:05:57 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.180026.11206@ils.nwu.edu> knyal@ils.nwu.edu (Jarrett Knyal) writes:
>I just ordered some Watco finish from McFeeley's.  Has anyone ever used this
>stuff?  Is it any good?  They pretty much tell you how to use it right in the
>catalog but if anyone can offer any additional tips, that would be great. 
>Thanks. 

     I just used Watco's Danish oil (Clear) on a walnut table.  I am very
pleased with the results.  The oil highlights the wood, rather than cover
it up.  It did change the color of the wood slightly, from a chocolate
brown to a slightly warmer brown.  The grain highlights are spectacular,
on the other hand.  Additionally, the table feels like wood, not plastic.

    The application of the oil was easy and almost fool-proof.  I sanded
the surface through a variety of grits to 600.  I then rubbed the table
with 0000 steelwool.  I applied the oil with a brush, let it sit for about
1/2 hour applying more wherever it soaked in, then rubbed it off with a
rag.  I reapplied a coat the next day and rubbed it in with more 0000
steelwool.  After allowing it 3 days to fully dry, I applied a furniture
paste wax.  Unlike other treatments I have used, the oil did not raise the
grain of the wood when applied.

     Watco's is now my finish of choice.

-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: RipCuts w/Radial Arm: finally, great results
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 13:24:07 GMT

rec.ww'ers,

Well, after b*tching about the innacuracy of my circular saw and
difficulties of ripping sheet goods with my RAS, I went a little nuts
and built an extension table and fence from a 4x8 sheet and some 8'
scraps of particle board.  The fence is clamped in the usual place on
the saw table and the table is screwed to it (I also built some simple
work supports that I am using as extension table legs).

The results have been amazing!  I can now rip plywood sheets (did 2
passes on a 2x8 half sheet, by myself, for two 11.75" wide strips
(+scrap)) with an accuracy I never dreamed of.  When I compared it to
the original mill cut edge, I could only detect the slightest bit of
wander (maybe a gradual 1/64 - 1/32) accross an 8' rip!  I think if I
tuned the saw a little more (this could go on forever) I could
probably even get better.

Maybe those with table saws & super-fences can do better, but boy, am I
psyched!  When I fanally settle on a permanent spot for my RAS, I'm
definitely going to provide plenty of clearance on both sides and make
this extension deal permanent ( maybe with a drop leaf thing in the
fron to cut down the width when not in use ).

I'll still be buying a table saw eventually though.  There is still
the limit of 24" or so on the rip width :^<.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chambles@whale.st.usm.edu ( Billy  Chambless)
Subject: Rust prevention
Originator: chambles@whale.st.usm.edu
Organization: University of Southern Mississippi
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 01:23:57 GMT


My shop is in a separate building in my backyard, with no
heat and not a whole lot of weatherproofing. I live in an
area of high humidity, and my tools are plagued with rust.
Are there any secrets to keeping the rust to a minimum?
-- 
* Billy Chambless   University of Southern Mississippi, USA 
*   chambles@whale.st.usm.edu
*    
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 18 Dec 1992 11:17:45 EST
Comments:     Converted from PROFS to RFC822 format by PUMP V2.2
From:         Bill McGeehan <IRMTAQA2@SIVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Power Miter Box Safety Warning

From: Bill McGeehan
  This weekend, while using my Craftsman power miter box, I was
showered with a spray of metal. It seems that when I moved it to
the 45 degree angle I needed, the fence didn't move enough to clear
the blade. When I looked further, there was a chunk of wood that
had fallen through the table from the previous cut. This didn't
allow the table and its associated fence to swivel all the way, and
when the blade was lowered, it just sliced the edge of the fence.
Fortunately, I wasn't injured.
  I'd like this to serve as a safety warning to everyone, but also
to get some opinions. Should a product be able to function this
way? It seems negligent in that the pointer showed I was locked in
at 45 degrees, and the table did swivel (partially, enough that the
blade didn't hit the table, thank goodness!). My blade is, of
course, ruined. Would I have any chance if I asked Sears to replace
it? Please don't tell me not to buy Sears, I bought this saw before
I subscribed to this discussion group. Bill McGeehan, Smithsonian Institution

Bill McGeehan, Smithsonian Institution
OIRM Computer Security Manager
Internet: IRMTAQA2@SIVM.SI.EDU
Bitnet:   IRMTAQA2@SIVM       Voice: (202) 633-9035
From: davallen@vms.macc.wisc.edu
Subject: Re: Repair of Countertop
Organization:  University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center
Distribution:  usa
Date: 14 DEC 92 11:14:13    

In article <1992Dec11.230830.7423@iitmax.iit.edu>, SULLRON@MINNA.IIT.EDU (USERS) writes...

>I have just completed sinking a 2' x 3' maple breadboard in 
>my counter.  Upon cleanup of the tools and equipment
>I dropped my drill and chipped the plastic laminate counter top.
>Does anyone have any suggestions for filling in the hole?
>It's about .25" in diameter, I have the pieces, but they don't
>fit really well.  The top is off white with a light gold mottled
>pattern on it.
> 
>thanks for the help!
> 
This reminds me of one of my classic DUMB BLUNDERS - I ran a couple of screws
up thru the NEW countertop I was putting in.  ANyway, I "fixed" it by VERY
CAREFULLY drilling a 1/2" hole over the defect with a brad point bit, and 
then using a 1/2" plug cutter to cut a matching plug out of some scrap of 
the same countertop material.  The trick is to get the hole and the plug to
come out the same thickness, and of course to match the pattern, but if you
jump those two hurdles OK, it looks ALMOST as good as new...

	Dave Allen
	Space Science & Engr Ctr.
	UW-Madison
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Re: Piano kit
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 09:52:35 GMT

lillie@anchor.comm.mot.com (Ross Lillie) writes:

>A piano kit?  As suggested, watch the want adds.  Now a Harpsichord... that's a
>different story, what with the elimination of 700lbs+ of cast iron :-).  Good
>period plans of harpsichords are available, although I can't remember the source.
>I seem to remember adds in appearing in Scientific American, now and then.

When I was in high school, two of my class mates were working on 
harpsichord kits.  They turned out really nice too!

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager.  If  you know
of an opportunity, please let me know!
From: carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointer vs Planer
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:27:37 EST

Becky,

I agree with previous posts that a Jointer would be more useful than a
planner.  I have both, and the only reason I have a planner is that I
purchase wood thru an Amish sawmill and need to surface the boards to the
desired thickness.  As for a jointer, I'd look into the Ryobi.  Its received
glowing reviews from the various wood rags, is portable and variable speed.
Best of all, it should'nt set you back as much as a stationary unit.

Good luck!

Dave

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Subject: Re: Impact of our hobby on "the pros" (WAS: Re: Jointer vs Planer)
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 21:34:28 GMT

: >But their claim is that everything I make myself is potentially money out
: >of their pockets. From my point of view, if I didn't make it
: >myself as a hobby, I probably wouldn't buy it from them anyway!

Some unions take the same attitude, and do everything they can to
discourage DIY work.  Of course, their argument is that only a trained
professional knows the Code, etc.  And admittedly, DIY'ers can really
screw things up (I have numerous examples left behind by the previous
owner of my home).

We have a culture of self-reliance in this country.  Many other cultures
frown upon the "moneyed classes" doing manual labor.  In other words, if
you can possibly afford to pay someone else, then you had better do so.
Friends who have lived in Mexico have told me that it really riled up
the hired help if they did _anything_ around the house.  That included
running their own bath water, hanging up a shirt or fixing themselves a
sandwich.

Flame away, folks.  ;>
-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
From: fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: problem with planer
Date: 16 Dec 92 09:51:09 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

Several weeks ago I posted a note explaining that I was having a
problem with my Delta portable planer.  It was planing boards more
on one side then the other.  Several of you suggested that the
planer head or cutter head was out of alignment with the table.
I brought the planer to an authorized service center since it was
still under warranty.  Apparently, fixing this problem is not a 
simple adjustment.  The service center called Delta and with no
questions asked they have replaced my old planer with a brand new
planer.  Thanks to everyone on the net for your suggestions.

On another subject, I am thinking about purchasing the PC router
table.  Does anyone in netland have any experience with this router
table or have any opinions about the table.

Rudy Fichtenbaum
Fichtenbaum@Desire.wright.edu

I am a great believer in luck.  The harder I work the more of it I have.

                    Thomas Jefferson

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: CMT VS. FREUD Router Bits
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 01:25:48 GMT

In article <92350.131718EMDJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET>, <EMDJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
|> Does anybody happen to know anything about these CMT router bits ?  Are they
|> any good? And how do they compare to Freud Bits?
|> Thanks in advance.
|> Daniel Schlissel

Daniel I recently received a set of CMT bits and with limited use cannot
be fully objective.  I do not have any Frued bits, but I have many
Amana and Bosch bits.  The cuttings action and cut surfaces of the CMT bits
are every bit (ha ha) as good the Amana and Bosch.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: Opinions on various Table Saws
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 13:18:45 GMT

In article <4068@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>In article <18045@bcars664.bnr.ca> rossane@bcarhc0.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Steve Rossanese) writes:
>
>>     I would like to purchase a decent table saw and not have
>>to get a second mortgage on my house. I know that the DELTA
>>UNISAW is the saw of choice, but up here in Ottawa that saw is
>>a rather large $2000. Although I don't want price to be the only
>>factor in my decision, it will come into play.
>
>A *lot* of people have Contractors saws.
>
>You should go visit Busy Bee (Innes & St. Laurent) and Legere

Yup.  I bought a Rexon contractors saw (real 1.5hp) and am very happy
with it so far.  Everything was perfectly aligned out of the box (maybe
I am just lucky??).  Runout on the arbour was less than 2/1000.  The
fence is of the garden variety not so good type, but for all the work
that I do, I don't mind a little extra time to set it up properly.  If
it becomes a problem, I will replace it with something better.  My next
step would be a used 10" cabinet saw.

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9