HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 17 Aug 1992 06:59:04 -0800
Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECKMAN.COM
From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
Subject:      Fine WoodWorking Magazine

Well, after all the references here to FWW I thought I'd take a look at it.
Now I know why I haven't.  Here in So. Calif. I have not been able to find a
newstand/magazine rack anywhere that carries it!  If anyone can point me to a
place in no. Orange Cty. that carries it, or a phone number I can call to
subscribe (though I'd like to see a copy or two first), please let me know.

   Don Roberts                   Internet:  don@beckman.com
   Beckman Instruments, Inc.     Phone:     714/961-3029
   2500 Harbor Bl. Mailstop X-12 FAX:       714/961-3351
   Fullerton, CA  92634          Disclaimer:  Blame me, not Beckman.
   People are as happy as they decide to be - A. Lincoln
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planes and recycling wood
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:23:04 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Ray Flanery writes:
>
>Secondly, my 3 year old daughter has taught me a new way to 
>recycle wood shavings. She came out to the garage, saw all the
>shavings on the ground and shouted 'hair' while beginning to
>pick it all up. Turns out my wife had been working on makeing
>cut-out faces and my daughter now uses the wood shavings for 
>textured hair (the fine ones become facial hair)! It was only
>going to be multch anyway.
>

If you are just interested in getting rid of it, you might check around for
a local stable, kennel, or petshop.  All three would have use of shavings
for bedding material.  Unless you produced a whole lot of the stuff, they
probably wouldn't be interested in coming to pick it up, but I'm sure
they wouldn't turn down any that was dropped off.

Lumber mills used to give the stuff away to any takers, though most now-
a-days have realized a lucrative side-business in selling it to the
abovementioned establishments.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 17 Aug 1992 12:01:17 -0800
Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECKMAN.COM
From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
Subject:      Re: repairing a caned chair
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

>Can anyone offer advice on what might be done to fix up an old caned chair?
>I bought a nice old carved wood rocker with a caned back and seat.  The seat
>is shot (two fist-sized holes) but I think the back might be okay with some
>work.  The caning on the chair back is very dry. Is there anything I can
>use to "moisturize" it?

I'm faced with a similar problem.  I have some caned seats that have holes in
them, but I haven't been able to come up with a way to get the old cane out.
It seems to be glued in and so far I've not been able to find a solvent that
works, or a  method for getting the beading out.  Any suggestions?  Trend-lines
sells caning of the right type for a reasonable price, if I can just get the
old out.

   Don Roberts                   Internet:  don@beckman.com
   Beckman Instruments, Inc.     Phone:     714/961-3029
   2500 Harbor Bl. Mailstop X-12 FAX:       714/961-3351
   Fullerton, CA  92634          Disclaimer:  Blame me, not Beckman.
   People are as happy as they decide to be - A. Lincoln
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dmoyer@ccscola.Columbia.NCR.COM (Dan Moyer)
Subject: Re: edging for plywood
Organization: NCR Corp, E&M-Columbia, Columbia, SC
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 16:32:59 GMT

In article <Aug.15.15.43.17.1992.5318@pilot.njin.net> ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
>> I haven't been pleased with my results in placing wood edges around
>> plywood.  
>
>I use the preglued veneer stuff.  It works ok for me.  I use a small
>hand iron (the kind they sell for such purposes) that I got second
>hand for $10.

Adding my $.02...   I've used regular veneer and a hot melt glue product
from a fabric store.  It comes on a roll, looks a bit like gauze bandage.
I don't do sewing, but I guess it's designed to glue fabric together.
Apply it between the plywood edge and strip of veneer and use an iron
to heat the wood and melt the glue.  It worked ok for me, and it was 
cheaper than purchasing preglued veneer.   The drawback is positioning
the three pieces together in a sandwich. 

dmoyer@columbiasc.ncr.com
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Keywords: Finishes, water based, polyurethane, paste filler.
Date: 18 Aug 92 12:28:53 GMT
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Distribution: clpd
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division

In article <1992Aug17.205606.28070@scic.intel.com>, hwilson@scic.intel.com (Howard Wilson) writes:
|> Greetings fellow woodworkers,
|> 
|> I am in the process of building a coffee table and end tables for
|> my family room using red oak.  I am considering trying out one of
|> these newer water based polyurethane top coats (varathane diamond).
|> 
|> Has anyone used these?
|> How do you like them?
|> How is the finish compared to their pertroleum based relatives?  
|> Can they be applied over oil based stains or paste fillers?
|> 
|> On the subject of paste fillers, I was wondering if anyone out 
|> there has experimented with tinting these.  Most of the fillers
|> I have been able to find only come in "natural" and a few pre-
|> tinted colors.  I have used WoodKote brand "natural" before with
|> good results.  I'm curious if anyone out there may have some advice
|> as how to go about tinting this stuff.  All I can tell you is that
|> this product is an isocyanate base and the label states that they
|> can be tinted.  Could "artist oils" be used for this purpose?
|> 
|> Any insight on these subjects would be greatly appreciated, thanks
|> in advance!
|> 
|> 
|> -- 
|> Howard Wilson
|> Intel Corporation		Supercomputer Interconnect Components Group
|> 5200 NE Elam Young Parkway	MS CO5-01     Email: hwilson@scic.intel.com
|> Hillsboro, OR  97124		Phone: 503-531-5056

There was an article printed in the last American Woodworker regarding
wood fillers for open pored woods and specifically addresses using
universal tinting products(?) to darken the filler. I refer you to
this article. If you need more info on specifics, let me know.
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:5607 rec.autos.tech:11210
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: drill press
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: usa, na
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 00:05:47 GMT

David Hoopes writes
> In article <1992Aug10.184156.26781@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu>  
tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
> >
> >I'm interested in hearing what people have to say about the Delta "radial  
arm"
> >drill press.
> >
> An easier solution is to get a drill press that you can turn the head on.
> Mine has two bolts at that loosen and then the top part of the drill press
> will rotate on the shaft.

But, a radial arm drill press also rotates in the XY plane (and so can become  
horizontal).

Finally, the reach of a radial arm drill press is about twice that of regular  
drill presses in the same price range.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey)
Subject: Craftsman BIS-KIT adapter
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: 22 Aug 92 15:53:21 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ben Bailey's Home..Tampa Fl.

I recently purchased the Sears Craftsman BIS-KIT system for my Sears
router.  It cost $37.77 - would have liked a 'real' biscuit cutter,
but.....  Anyway, I'm impressed with the results.  It's well made,
and is easy to use.  I recommend it to anyone who would like an adapter
until life presents you with a 'real' one!  It includes the cutter bit
(their term), and an assortment of #0, #10, #20 biscuits.

Ben
--
Ben Bailey                 ben@bailey.uucp -- bailey!ben@uunet.uu.net
12210 Shady Forest Dr.     ben@bailey.tscs.com
Riverview, Fl. 33569       -- The main thing is to keep the main
813-677-5021                  thing the main thing.  Mainly.
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Face Vise Questions
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:04:28 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated


I'm starting to design a workbench. Yes, I've already consulted Scott Landis' 
"The Workbench Book." It seems to me that the first thing I should do is 
decide/get the vise hardware. Right now I'm looking at face vises. I know of 
the following options:

1) No face vise, just hooks and wedges a la Roubo.
2) Shoulder vise akin to Tage Frid's or Frank Klausz's benches.
3) Standard metal face vise, Record, Paramo, Jorgensen, etc.
4) Veritas Tucker vise (Emmert remake, plus).

I've ruled out #1.

A shoulder vise is great for holding work vertically, but not so great 
otherwise. I think I've ruled out #2, but am open to experiences of those with 
shoulder vices.

The standard metal vise is what most woodworkers choose today. Holding a board 
vertically through the vise (for dovetail cutting, for instance) usually means 
either not clamping tightly, or using a block on the other side, to prevent the 
vise from cocking on the shafts. I've seen the table where the face vise is 
attached to a board that's hinged to the table top, giving some Emmert 
capabilities, and this is somehwat appealing. My idea, however, would be to 
enable the vise to rotate 90 degree about it's shaft axis, so that I could 
clamp a board vertically.

The Jorgensen face vise (4" x 10" face, 12" depth) appears to be a well-built 
vise, perhaps better than the Record 52E. Has anyone compared them? The 
Jorgensen is higher (4" versus 3.5"), but the depth is somewhat less. How well 
does the quick release feature work? Note that I probably won't get much use 
out of the dog on the Jorgensen since I expect to have a tail vise.
 
The Tucker vise is a beauty. However, its price, about $500, is way out of 
line. I don't think I'd much use the ability to swing the jaws up parallel to 
the table, but the twisting action (again for vertical clamping) and the 10 
degree taper clamping ability I'd certainly use.

Comments, and experiences welcome.

TIA
Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A fire safety reminder
Date: 19 Aug 92 14:00:48 GMT
Distribution: na,usa,net
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> P.S. "This is one variation, of many, of a rhetorical question.

Why do people insist on sending rhetorical questions to the net?
From: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Morten Mortise and Tenon Jig
Date: 19 Aug 92 16:28:42 GMT
Reply-To: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: badseed.eng.sun.com

Hello Collectively Wise People,

I was wondering if anyone has experience with the Morten Mortise and Tenon Jig.
I've seen it in action, and it looks like it does a good job. Is this a good
product? I have a Freud FT2000E router and I'd sure like to make some mortise and
tenons with it.  

What do you think?
Keith
P.S. They want $45 in the latest International Tool Corp catalog.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bill@quercus.gsfc.nasa.gov (Bill Kovalick)
Subject: Re: Water based top coats, paste fillers.
Keywords: Finishes, water based, polyurethane, paste filler.
Organization: NASA/GSFC code 923
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 13:14:05 GMT

I've used a water based urethane made by Hydrocote (I think)
and in general, I'm pleased with the results. I apply it
with a foam brush which is recommended for minimizing bubbling.
Bubbling can be a problem with water based finishes "they" 
say. Thus far, I've finished hard maple and white pine - in 
both cases, the urethane imparted a faint whitish tint to the
wood, rather than a yellowish one - typical with oil based
finishes. When dry, the water based finish was quite hard
- i.e., difficult to make dents in the wood with a fingernail.
I guess my main gripe would be the whitish tint: the maple
almost looks like a different type of wood because of this.
The pine has better retained the natural patina and also 
seems to be glossier. Unfortunately, I haven't used it on
oak yet but I plan to in the near future.  As far as clean
up, drying time, and release of noxious fumes, the water 
based urethane gets a double thumbs up. I say give one a try!

Bill Kovalick          bill@quercus.gsfc.nasa.gov
(my ".signature" is currently in the shop for refinishing)
From: jde@nic.cerf.net (Jeff Ellis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Band Saw and wood lathe
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:46:40 GMT
Organization: CERFnet

I have been in the market for a band saw and wood lathe for
home/small shop use, and after reading the stuff here about
Grisley pro/con, I thought I might ask if any of you have
used the following:

Reliant 4-speed 1hp 14"  band saw. it seems to be a 
import clone of the Delta, but at almost half the price.
Its $300 and the Delta is $700 in the same catalog.
Also is the roller bearing tracking system ($45) a good
buy? The catalog says "Perfect tracking with 1/16 & 1/8" 
blades"

I am also looking at a Delta 12" Wood Lathe. This is the 3/5hp
variable speed model. I am planing on doing some spindle turning
but more making plates, bowels, and cups.
This is just for fun and making home use and gift items.

Thanks for your help!
-- 
Jeff Ellis
jde@cerf.net
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cabinet scraper advice?
Date: 18 Aug 92 06:36:00 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

john@ssd.kodak.com (John Hall) writes:

> 1. The blade has no burr on it.  Should it?  Is it done the same way as on a
> hand scraper: file, stone, (consolidate?), burnish?

Yes, but it needs to be done at an angle (I've usually heard 45 degrees).  I've
never used that type of scraper, but I think the blade is usually given a much
heavier burr than is usual for a hand scraper.

> 3. One of the long edges of the blade appears to have once been grooved or
> serrated in some way.  Why?

I think that was used to "rough up" a surface for veneer work with hot hide
glue.  We discussed that technique here a few weeks ago and I think we agreed
that it was a questionable technique.

> 4. There are two thumbscrews that secure the blade and a third one that bows
> it.  This acts as a depth-of-cut control, right?

It might also control the curvature of the cut: for blades of the same depth of
cut in the center, a significantly curved blade will be easier to push.  Think
of scrub planes (curved blade edge) compared to a finishing plane blade.

> 5. Any tips on style? Is it better to pull or push?  How does one make this
> tool do its best work?

I've never used one, but if it's anything like a hand scraper, the best style
is the one that works for you.  Try pushing and pulling, with heavy burrs and
light burrs, different curvatures, etc, on different woods and see the results
of each technique.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
From: faklis@joker.optics.rochester.edu (Dean Faklis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Recommended fillers for oak?
Date: 22 Aug 92 16:54:24 GMT
Reply-To: faklis@joker.optics.rochester.edu (Dean Faklis)
Distribution: na
Organization: The Institute of Optics, University of Rochester


   I'm halfway through putting together a coffee table and I
want to start filling in some of the nicks before I finish
it.
    Off the shelf fillers (from the hardware store) and the 
glue and sawdust combination did not give great results.
    Does anyone have experience, good or bad with the burn in
fill sticks I see in the catalogs? I'm worried that they would
not accept oil finishes so well afterwards.

 Thanks in advance !!!!
Dean Faklis
faklis@joker.optics.rochester.edu
From: martin@biostat.washington.edu (Don Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Unfinished Chair Frames (was Chair Designs)
Date: 13 Aug 92 20:11:25 GMT
Organization: Biostatistics, School of Public Health, Univ. of Wash.

In article <114644@muvms3.bitnet> rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM) writes:
>In article <1992Aug11.170722.18981@cs.cmu.edu>, neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus) writes:
>> Along these lines....
>> 
>> I'm making dining room tables (large ones), in
>

stuff deleted

>drawings. Stickley worked in quartersawn oak. The book is called
>THE FURNITURE OF GUSTAV STICKLEY (i think :-).
>
>--danny
>
This  is a good book. It has a number of plans complete
with cutting lists. The chair on the cover is IMHO Stickley's best.
Plans are included for a similar chair are included with detailed
construction advise. The book is about $35.

The bad news is that it recently went out of print. After much 
looking, I found one still in stock at a bookstore. You may
be able to do the same.

There are several other books including one on biulding craftsman
style furnature. Sorry but I don't have references here.

You might want to look at some modern designs. The Fine Woodworking
photo books can range from inspiration, to awsome via downright funny.

Good luck
Don Martin
From: franklin@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (PAUL FRANKLIN X3364)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Router fence materials and design question...
Date: 15 Aug 92 21:17:15 EST

In article <1992Aug3.162035.1@max.u.washington.edu>, games@max.u.washington.edu writes:
> I am making a fence for a router table, but the router table is really
> the extension table for my table saw.  I have a bisemeyer fence, and I have
> bought a fence body, to which I intend to attach a router type fence.
> The extention table is almost 4 feet across, so the fence will have to be about
> 4' long.
> 
> I have two questions. (And a bad ascii drawing)
> 
> 1:  What material should I make the fence out of. (Machining metal

I like to use baltic birch plywood for fences.  It is more stable than any
solid wood, and because of the large number of plies and lack of internal voids
it machines pretty well.  Of course you have to laminate several lengths to get
the thickness you need.  One disadvantage is that most baltic birch plywood
tends to have a little warp.  I get around that by alternating strips warp up,
warp down when I laminate them, this invariably results in a solid, straight,
fence.  For a machine fence, you are should be more concerned with stability
and rigidity (stiffness) than hardness. It can be a little hard to find, I get
mine though a local cabinet shop, and the woodworkers store sells it in small
pieces.
One more plus, for the fence shape you have in mind, you could fabricate it out
of the correct size pieces and wouldn't have to machine the t-slot.

Paul Franklin
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lester@naomi.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Les Bartel)
Subject: bending wood
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix, An Intergraph Company
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 16:09:53 GMT

What is the best way to bend wood?  I need to make a smooth 90 degree
bend on a piece of wood 1 x 3/8 x 8 (the board is longer than this, but
the bend must occur in 8 inches).  I soaked the wood in water for
about a day and it developed creases in the bend.  Is that long enough
(time wise)?  Would it be a good idea to build a jig that has the
same radius as the bend, and use that as a form?  What kinds of wood
bend the best (I was using white pine)?

Thanks,

 - Les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Dazix, An Intergraph Company	uunet!ingr!b23b!naomi!lester
Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537

Gravity really gets me down.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: trifid@agora.uucp (Roadster Racewerks)
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale: Mr. Grizzly Returns
Organization: Open Communications Forum
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 08:21:00 GMT



I'm afraid no matter how justified you might feel in writing a loooong,
and angry letter to Grizzly, or any other company, in point of fact, their
spokesman has merely told you and the other readers the plain truth.

Companies do not have the right to force their employees to read offensive
mail, nor can most of them afford to respond to every letter they get. Therefore
they *will* set criteria for what they will respond to. Grizzly's criteria
seem to be pretty much the standard for any American business....

Whether you like it or not, if you insist on doing it your own way despite
the guidelines most businesses use, you will just frustrate yourself, and
evetually you will run out of companies you feel you can do business with.

While this may not be "fair", business is not democratic, and is not required
to abide by anyone's definition of "fair" or reasonable except where a statute
has been legislated. Generally, it just does what has been proven to work in
the most cases.

And in most cases, trying to reply to people who seem too angry to reason with
doesn't lead to any useful dialogue...so they don't do it very often.
(You'd probably be amazed at the amount of mail from purely delusional people
the average large corporation gets....complaining about products that don't
exist, or they don't sell. A good friend who works as a receptionist in the
credit dept. of a local bank had a good deal of trouble with a woman who was
very upset that the bank hadn't done anything to return the money she had won
in a lawsuit. Trouble is, she insisted that she was *in* that bank despite all
the signs saying she was in the wrong bank entirely. It became obvious she
thought she could just go into any bank she wanted and collect the "debt". 
[The transaction was of a non-existant type in *any* bank, as well.] When you
are dealing by mail with a company, they have no way to sort out the merely
upset from the habitually abusive. So they don't bother.)

Suze (who has corresponded over many complaints over the years, always 
successfully...)

trifid@agora.rain.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: bending wood
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 06:30:21 GMT

Les Bartel (lester@naomi.NoSubdomain.NoDomain) wrote:
: What is the best way to bend wood?  I need to make a smooth 90 degree
: bend on a piece of wood 1 x 3/8 x 8 (the board is longer than this, but
: the bend must occur in 8 inches).  I soaked the wood in water for
: about a day and it developed creases in the bend.

I have not worked with anything thicker than about 3/16 when trying a tight
bend like 90deg in 8". And even at that I usually soak the wood for about
five days.  If I need a thicker peice I always laminate them together.

  Is that long enough
: (time wise)?  Would it be a good idea to build a jig that has the
: same radius as the bend, and use that as a form?

That depends on how accurate and neat you need the bend.  If it has to stay
at a fixed radius  I would strongly recommend that

  What kinds of wood
: bend the best (I was using white pine)?

My best luck seems to be Ash and again the thicker it is the wider the required
radius is.: 
: Thanks,
: 
:  - Les
:

Tell us what you are using this for, maybe some additional ideas could create
an easier way for you.

Dennis
 
: -- 
: Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
: Dazix, An Intergraph Company	uunet!ingr!b23b!naomi!lester
: Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537
: 
: Gravity really gets me down.

--

  
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### What were the Raven's last imortal words????????????????????????????????###
###############################################################################
   Please note that any comments are not my employeers or even mine at times.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking