From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re:    Two Weird VWs---Help!
Date: 9 Sep 92 23:25:10 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <92253.141959IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET>, <IDJMW@ASUACAD.BITNET>Jo Namio (The Hippie) writes:
> I am the ecstatic owner of two VWs... one is a '66 Beetle, the other

I'd love to buy the bug...   Oh for the need of money, though.  :-)

> When applying pressure on the brakes, the first application sends the pedal 1/2
> the way down and makes me exceedingly nervous, so I pump it quickly once and
> then apply the brakes as normal. Have had pads, etc. all checked and they
> are fine. Have had brakes bled and that didn't help. One mechanic
> says it's master cylinder replacement time. Another tells me he can
> adjust them and I'll be fine, for $15.00. (Very tempting to take the
> $15 job and run, but very safe?)

First, Have the brakes adjusted.  Bleeding them will do no good unless they are
properly adjusted.  Long pedal travel is usually a symptom of brakes that need
adjusting. 
> 
> Second Beetle problem, when starting from a stop, in first gear only, unless
> clutch pedal is released very carefully, there is a shudder. Most of the time,
> if you're paying attention, it's not a problem. Sometimes, if you AREN't
> paying attention, it shudders itself out of gear. Mechanic #1 tells me that
> the "tranny mounts are loose." The shuddering is ONLY from a stop in first
> gear, so this one I doubt. Mechanic #2 tells me that I need a $300 clutch
> job. Mechanic #3 tells me that he can do an adjustment on the tube that
> the clutch  cable passes thru for $30. Another temptation.

Try adjusting the clutch.  Then go from there.  Clutch shuddering is usually a
symptom of oil on the clutch disc.  (when the clutch pedal freeplay is properly
adjusted.)

> As for the BUS..... only 20,000 miles on rebuilt engine. New starter. New
> battery. However, after driving from Phoenix to Tucson, the red light kept
> going on. Stopped, a nervous wreck, checked the oil, had a COke, and drove
> on again. Red light goes back off. Goes on. Goes off. On the way back from
> Tucson to Phoenix, begins lurching, but only at speed limit. Slowing down
> stops lurching. Could this be caused by the minor valve adjustment
> the kid I bought it from says it needs?   Moot point at the moment,
> since it now does not start. Ever since that monsoon rain the other
> weekend. Turns over, sounds fine, just doesn't kick in. I'm assuming this
> is just another one of those dumb Volks things like moisture in the
> distributor cap.

Since the thing won't start, check the points and the carb settings.  To change
the carb settings, you'll have to set the valves anyway.  Make sure your plugs 
aren't fouled out.  For the red light problem, check the fan belt tension,
reach around and make sure nothing's caught in the fan.  Other overheating
could come from the oil pressure relief valve sticking.

Since I don't know how much you want to do for your Volks yourself, I won't go
into procedures.  None of this is real hard to do or requires anything more
than ordinary tools.  If you want to do more in the way of diagnosing and
treating your ailing Volkswagen, Check into a copy of "How to Keep Your
Volkswagen Alive" by John Muir (Nothing to do with the naturalist by the same
name).  

> 
> whine whine whine
> 
> Jo Namio
> 
> PS) am putting off the psychedelic paint job on the Bus until its RUNNING
GRRRROOOOOOOVVVVYYYYYY!!!!!!

Will you do my '77?

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|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw