HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: U37460@uicvm.uic.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Ballast capacity
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:55:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: uicvm.92280.105554U37460
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago

In article <1as8n6INN27a@uwm.edu>, drallen@convex.csd.uwm.edu (Derek R Allen)
says:
>
>I recently bought a 48" twin bulb flourescent Coralife fixture with
>acrylic lens for my 55 gal tank.  The ballast is made by Coralife and
>has a rating for two 48" 40 watt bulbs.  When I turn this unit on it
>lights up immediately.  I know next to nothing about electricity....
>so here is my question:  Could I replace one of the 40watt tubes with
>a H.O. 65 watt tube.  What would happen?  Would the 65 watt simply fail
>to start?  Or would some disaster be forthcoming???????
>
NO! Do not put HO bulbs on a standard 40 watt ballast, you must get a
ballast with the exact wattage and current(I believe HO is 800ma and
standard is 425ma, VHO=1500ma).  If you did hook up your 40W 425ma ballast
to 65W 800ma bulbs, you would most likely burn out your ballast.
Ethan Haslett
u37460@uicvm.uic.edu
From: schoinas@fox.cs.wisc.edu (Yannis Schoinas)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Pleco's and food
Keywords: dPLECOS
Date: 6 Oct 92 00:26:43 GMT
Organization: U of Wisconsin Madison - Computer Sciences

bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:


>I have a rather large Pleco that I just purchased.  He is about 4-5
>inches long and is in a 20 gallon community tank with about 14 other
>relatively small fish.  The tank is near a window and between the
>sunlight and the hood light...lots of algae grows on one side of the
>tank. 

>The problem is the Pleco eats the algae faster than the algae
>grows...which is good.  I was wondering what I can feed the pleco when
>there is a lack of algae?  I've heard cucumber, but can't get it to
>sink.  I also tried Hilary's algae sinking pellets...excepts the other
>fish seem to get to them first.  Any suggestions?  I will be getting
>3-4 new tanks in a week or two so suggestions can include moving him
>with other types of fish that won't eat the pellets....

Well,

my plecos used to come up in the surface to get the food directly
into their mouth. It took some time to start doing it, though. 

						Yannis.
From: tolosa@vette.ssd.loral.com (Rod Tolosa)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Wanted: Large tank/ Fish for Sale
Date: 1 Oct 92 23:35:45 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Space Systems/Loral


WANTED:  Large Tank, approx 180+ gallons

         Will trade mated-pair of discus
         
FOR SALE:  Baby Discus, $3+
           Angel fish (assorted), 50 cents ea.

PHONE: 415-852-5821, ask for Toshi
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dougo@wam.umd.edu (Douglas Bruce Olson)
Subject: Re: Pleco's and food
Keywords: dPLECOS
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 21:54:53 GMT

>there is a lack of algae?  I've heard cucumber, but can't get it to
>sink.  I also tried Hilary's algae sinking pellets...excepts the other

	To get my cucumbers to sink (for my snails) I get a rock and
take a rubber band and attach the cucumber to the rock with the 
rubber band. Works like a charm. Do this with lettuce also.
	
	

Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5175 rec.aquaria:7764
From: bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Pleco's and food
Keywords: dPLECOS
Date: 3 Oct 92 16:58:34 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


I have a rather large Pleco that I just purchased.  He is about 4-5
inches long and is in a 20 gallon community tank with about 14 other
relatively small fish.  The tank is near a window and between the
sunlight and the hood light...lots of algae grows on one side of the
tank. 

The problem is the Pleco eats the algae faster than the algae
grows...which is good.  I was wondering what I can feed the pleco when
there is a lack of algae?  I've heard cucumber, but can't get it to
sink.  I also tried Hilary's algae sinking pellets...excepts the other
fish seem to get to them first.  Any suggestions?  I will be getting
3-4 new tanks in a week or two so suggestions can include moving him
with other types of fish that won't eat the pellets....
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5123 rec.aquaria:7635
From: trues@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.b.truesdale)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: SW equipment sale
Keywords: Selling SW stuff
Date: 28 Sep 92 19:46:17 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T


                FOR SALE - Salt water aquarium equipment

I am discontinuing my salt water hobby so here is the equipment
that is for sale:

        1 58 Gallon Oceanic stand               $ 80.00
        1 Minireef Wet Dry with auto fill swtch $100.00
        1 Hagan Fluval 403 Filter               $ 75.00
        1 Hawaiian Marine AN8A 8 WT inline UV   $ 60.00
        1 Sanders Redox-Pot-Meter 0-1000mv      $375.00
        2 Sanders Ozoniers Model 100            $110.00 each
        1 Air drier tube with beads             $ 40.00
        2 Tetra Luft Air Pumps                  $ 15.00 each
        2 Ebojager 250W Heaters                 $ 10.00 each
        1 SealTest Multi-kit test set           $ 20.00

Contact: Jim Truesdale  AT&T Bell Labs 708-713-4110
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: mhatz@nyx.cs.du.edu (Mike Hatz)
Subject: Ram Cichlids...
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 01:29:22 GMT

I the group's collective advice and got 4 Ram cichlids for my little 10 gallon
this weekend.  I do have 2 questions though:

1)  What is the most accurate way to sex them?  I am looking at their little
"punk" hairdos and the eye bars.

2)  Any tips to get them to breed?

Thanks!

Mike

Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5149 rec.aquaria:7706 sci.aquaria:1398
From: mancinis@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (steven mancini)
Subject: New Fish and the General Population
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 23:35:50 GMT

Howdy All:

	I just went out and purchased a pair of Fancy Guppies. Well turns
	out the female is pregnant. How do I know this you may be wondering?
	She started popping out little ones 20 minutes after I get her
	home.

	Anyway here's my question:
	
	How long before I should let these tiny buggers out into the
	general population of a 55 gallion tank? Currently we have
	no aggressive fish, but these munchkins are small enough to
	be a mouthful for my Chinese Algae Eater.

	I currently have them in a goldfish bowl. (No filter, a heater
	but practically nothing else.)

	Advice? 
	Suggestions?
							-Steve

-- 

+-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-+
| Steve Mancini (a.k.a. The Minotaur) | mancinis@mentor.cc.purdue.edu   |
|    Grad Student {Dazed & Confused}  | mancinis@vm.cc.purdue.edu       |
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: flow rate of Eheim 1050 pump
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:36:52 GMT
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Joe Mueller (joemu@mentorg.com) wrote:
: I plan to replace my Eheim 1050 hobby pump with
: a canister filter with the same flow rate to add
: chemical filtration to my wet-dry filter.

T H I S   W I L L   N O T   W O R K ! !

Don't do it.  Cannister filters are specifically designed
to operate with no head.  That means that they are not
equipped to lift water, like from a sump to a tank.  They
use a relatively wimpy powerhead, and depend upon having
a syphon on the intake line to maintain their flow.

It should be fairly easy to either put the chemical filtration
in a compartement in your sump or to fashion a reaction chamber
using PVC and a large plastic jar/jug which could be put between
your pump and your tank.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5150 rec.aquaria:7707 sci.aquaria:1399
From: drallen@convex.csd.uwm.edu (Derek R Allen)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: multiple questions
Date: 28 Sep 1992 16:21:09 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.30
Originator: drallen@convex.csd.uwm.edu

I am going to try and enjoy certain economies by posing several questions
in this post at once -- they vary in topic significantly:

	1.	I have started feeding my R. aculeatus (Picasso Trigger)
		feeder guppies -- I select the very smallest for the
		trigger which is about 3" long.  He devours the .75"
		guppies in one bite.  It has occurred to me, however,
		that I may be introducing harmful elements to my 
		55 gal tank.  Is this possible?  Will the trigger be
		just as happy eating a combination of Formula One and
		Prime Reef?   He really seems to enjoy the feeder
		guppies!!

	2.	With the help of an architect, I have plans for putting
		a 90 gal tank in the wall between our dining and family
		rooms -- this will allow viewing from both sides AND
		one end of the aquarium -- three sides of viewing.
		Filtration will occur downstairs in the basement --
		wet/dry, protein skimmer and heating.  This whole project
		which will include built in tv/stereo panel close to the
		tank (about 4' away) was drawn in detail by the
		architect before I showed it to my wife -- well,
		she LIKED it and said we should go ahead and do it!!!
		My question, then, is: has anyone else tried this setup?
		We will have built in cabinets for cleaning access and the
		tank will be about four feet off the ground set flush on
		both sides to the wall.  Lighting will be suspended within
		the wall which will be about 2.2' wide.  Has anyone out
		there tried such a system?  The cost will about
		$1900 and, when we want to sell the house, the
		tank could be removed and replaced with a see-through
		plant area.  Comments?  We will start this in 6 weeks 
		or so!!
		
	Thank you in advance for your advice/suggestions!	
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|            YOUR NAME OR COMPANY LOGO HERE!!!                             |
|                                                                          |
|            Weekly/monthly rates available.                               |
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Pleco's and food
Keywords: dPLECOS
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:57:28 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <Oct.3.12.58.33.1992.21059@remus.rutgers.edu> bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:
>
>I have a rather large Pleco that I just purchased.  He is about 4-5

[.....]

>The problem is the Pleco eats the algae faster than the algae
>grows...which is good.  I was wondering what I can feed the pleco when
>there is a lack of algae?  I've heard cucumber, but can't get it to
>sink.  I also tried Hilary's algae sinking pellets...excepts the other
>fish seem to get to them first.  Any suggestions?  

Brian,

Plecos are vegetarian, and will eat flake food. As they are mostly
nocturnal and the other fish in the tank will not eat in the dark, you
can feed him/her last thing at night.

There are prepared foods that sink, such as TabiMin tablets, that can
also be dropped in the tank after lights out.

Cuccumber or Zucchini will sink if it is nuked in a microwave oven,
then allowed to cool. I have had great sucess with this method except
that the rind will not decompose easily and has to be fished out later.
I plan to remove it first as an experiment.
  
>I will be getting
>3-4 new tanks in a week or two so suggestions can include moving him
>with other types of fish that won't eat the pellets....

3-4 new tanks? What size? You'll be busy setting those up all at once.
Things will go faster if you take water from your existing tank, say,
half from there and half from the tap. If you have sponge filters it
would be smart to move one to the new tank or if you have
box filters with removable floss you can split that in two and 'seed'
the next tank with half.

I would suggest that you store some tap water now, to be used in the
new tanks, so that it ages. An air stone in the aging water helps, too.

BTW, our local ACE hardware store has 18 gallon storage containers on
sale for about $6.50 each, they make a great water aging bin or 
emergency tank.


++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: tpehrson@javelin.sim.es.com (tim clinkenpeel)
Subject: [f] food for rainbow shark?
Reply-To: tpehrson@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:15:59 GMT

i recently added a rainbow shark to my little desk aquarium and have noticed
that he won't eat the flakes or the 'crumbs' i have.  the barb, zebra and
tetras all consume both with fervor.  the rainbow will slurp it up (either)
only to spit it back out.  what do you suggest for this finicky fish?  is it
content munching on the miniscule amounts of algae it can gleen?
-- 
	       there is no religion when a man has  good curry
				       -
      tim clinkenpeel: aberrant analytical skeptical agnostic idealist.
		     -- i exclusively represent myself --
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5148 rec.aquaria:7705 sci.aquaria:1397
From: joshua@Veritas.COM (Joshua Levy)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Pleco's and food
Keywords: dPLECOS
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:39:16 GMT
Organization: VERITAS Software

In article <Oct.3.12.58.33.1992.21059@remus.rutgers.edu> bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:
>I was wondering what I can feed the pleco when
>there is a lack of algae?  I've heard cucumber, but can't get it to
>sink.  I also tried Hilary's algae sinking pellets...excepts the other
>fish seem to get to them first.  

You might try feeding normal food at the same time you put in the sinking
pellets, since the other fish should eat the normal food first, giving
the pl*co time to eat the sinking pellets.

You might also try Hikari's algae wafer food.  I won some in a raffle
a few months ago.  I only have one fish which should eat it (a chinese
algae eater).  I've put in a wafer every few weeks.  My clown loaches
seem to like it, and it disapears in a few hours.  I hope the algae
eater is getting some.

Joshua Levy  (joshua@veritas.com)
From: bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Stingrays
Keywords: Stingray
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:46:33 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

Anyone out there have a freshwater stingray?  I am thinking about getting one
and would like to know what they are compatible with, what they eat, water
conditions etc.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: kimmel@cortex.sai.vtt.fi     (Jyrki Kimmel)
Subject: Re: Pleco's and food
Keywords: dPLECOS
Organization: Technical Research Centre of Finland (VTT/SAI)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 06:34:27 GMT

In article <Oct.3.12.58.33.1992.21059@remus.rutgers.edu> bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:
>
>I have a rather large Pleco that I just purchased.  He is about 4-5
...
>sink.  I also tried Hilary's algae sinking pellets...excepts the other
>fish seem to get to them first.  Any suggestions?  I will be getting
>3-4 new tanks in a week or two so suggestions can include moving him
>with other types of fish that won't eat the pellets....

I have used 'nuked zucchini' with success. I won't name the fish that
likes it so much ;-)...

Instructions: Buy zucchini. Cut a slice about 1/8" thick (a minor
concession to the metric impaired), peel it and microwave it with
a little water for 2 minutes. I may not sink, so squeeze all
remaining bubbles out when you put it in your tank. Be sure it has
cooled enough before you feed the fish! I place mine under
a small rock, same place every time. Don't worry if it seems to
disintegrate. That's only a sign to change the zucchini (in
about 3 days).

Good luck,

Jyrki


-- 
Jyrki Kimmel, VTT Medical Engineering Laboratory kimmel@cortex.sai.vtt.fi
signature in proposal in peer review phase (PPRP). Proposed motto:
"El{m{ on kivaa!" ("Life is fun!")  -Kaisa-Maria, age 3
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Mollies and humane killing
Date: 5 Oct 92 03:44:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct4.221813.2198@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu> shores@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu writes:
>Hello all....
>     --What is their preferred ph?  I know they like hard, alkaline water,
>       but just how alkaline??

Moderately alkaline, up to the full-strength sea water.  If it's between
7.2-8.4 pH, they will not mind.

>     --About salt for the mollies:  I am currently using 1 tsp/gallon of
>       aquarium salt.  Is this too much?  Too little?   Should I be using
>       one of the marine salt preparations instead of plain ol' salt?

Marine salt mix is probably better, but not essential.  1 tsp/gal is OK and
will not kill all your plants.

>     --Lastly, what is the best (i.e. most painless--both for the fish and
>       for me, the soft-hearted aquarist) way to destroy mortally ill or
>       deformed fish?    

Several ways I have read in various books:
 - throw it in boiling water -- instant death
 - put it in a pitcher of water in the refrigerator -- death will be slow
   and painless as the fish slow down and die.  Will not work with some cold
   water fish.
 - put it in a cup of seltzer -- the fish will be anastecised and will die 
   in a few minutes without any pain.

I usually isolate the fish and let them expire (or not) on their own, or
feed them to another animal if they are simply deformed.

>(and what's the best way to get rid of this 
>       stupid kissing gourami that I hate?  would anyone like to have it???)

Try a pet shop -- many will trade your fish for in-store credit.

-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5211 rec.aquaria:7821
From: drallen@convex.csd.uwm.edu (Derek R Allen)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Ballast capacity
Date: 6 Oct 1992 14:43:50 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.30
Originator: drallen@convex.csd.uwm.edu

I recently bought a 48" twin bulb flourescent Coralife fixture with
acrylic lens for my 55 gal tank.  The ballast is made by Coralife and
has a rating for two 48" 40 watt bulbs.  When I turn this unit on it
lights up immediately.  I know next to nothing about electricity....
so here is my question:  Could I replace one of the 40watt tubes with
a H.O. 65 watt tube.  What would happen?  Would the 65 watt simply fail
to start?  Or would some disaster be forthcoming???????

		As usual, thanks in advance.

					
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|            YOUR NAME OR COMPANY LOGO HERE!!!                             |
|                                                                          |
|            Weekly/monthly rates available.                               |
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Salt in Freshwater... How much?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 09:18:28 GMT

In article <1992Oct3.003230.11308@wam.umd.edu> dougo@wam.umd.edu (Douglas Bruce Olson) writes:
>how much per gallon? 

1 tsp per 2-3 gal.  In your case, 1 tsp/5 gal.

-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: patti@hosehead.intel.com (Patti Beadles)
Subject: Re: Acrylic Tanks
Originator: patti@hosehead
Organization: Intel Corporation, Hillsboro, OR
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 20:13:10 GMT

Scratches can be removed from the outside of an acrylic tank using a
scratch removal kit.  These are available from most acrylic shops.  (I
got mine at Tap Plastics.)  It takes a little bit of elbow grease, but
it's not too bad.  Shallow scratches are, obviously, much easier than
deep ones.

For scratches inside the tank, there's a product available called
Micro Mesh.  It's effectively a VERY fine grade of sandpaper, and can
be used underwater.  I know it's available from the manufacturer
(whose name and address I don't have handy), and I've heard rumors
that Clarity Plus also sells it.  Also, I believe I've seen it in a
Tap Plastics catalog.
-- 
Patti Beadles  503/696-4358 | I don't speak for Intel, nor vice-versa.
   patti@hosehead.intel.com |
   75555.767@compuserve.com | Practice random kindness and
or just yell, "Hey, Patti!" |                  senseless acts of beauty.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: paeckman@eos.ncsu.edu (PATRICIA A ECKMAN)
Subject: Killing the "Bad" Bacteria
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:47:07 GMT

How do you kill "bad" bacteria in a FW tank without killing the
"good" bacteria, too?  Over the course of about a month, I have
lost 12 fish to (according to Fish Pros in Raleigh, NC) a bacterial
infection.

30 gal.
honey-red dwarf gouramis
neon tetras
white-lyre tail mollies
cory cats
live and fake plants
established since 1/92

The most recent outbreak has one of the cory cats with ragged looking
fins on top and swimming on its side.  Fish Pros told me to take him
out and put him into a bucket with some yellow stuff they gave me in
the store.  I was to leave him in there with an air stone for an hour,
then return him to the main tank.  The water I used in the bucket came
from the main tank.

I did this the first day, and when I took him out he was bleached white
and not very happy.

The next day, I was told to treat the main tank with 1 tsp. of the same
stuff for 24 hours, and then do a 20% water change.  This killed off 4
neons the next day.  I have done 2 20% changes since, and the neons
left (9) seem ok.

I then put the cory back in the bucket for another dose, and I thought
he was swimming a little better and eating more.  But this morning,
he was laying in a plant.  I went to net him and he swam away, but I
expect he'll be dead when I get home from work.  Poor thing, I don't
know what to do.

How long will this go on?  Till all the fish are dead?  What is this
evil intruder?  It killed the other fish (2 mollies, 2 gouramis, several
tetras) fairly quickly.  The only warning seemed to be lack of appetite 
for a day and then they were dead.  Only a few lasted long enough to
actually look wasted.

Sorry this is so long, but just for completness, I need to fill in the
entire treatments I have done.  The very first sign of trouble was a 
gouramis with a hole in its side.  I used pipzine dissolved in freeze-
dried tubifex for a week, once a day.  I continued to lose fish (about
8) until suddenly, things seemed to stablilize and I stopped the pipzine.

I usually do 25% water changes twice a month, although someone at Fish
Pros said that was too much and I should only do monthly.  

I would really appreciate any comment/suggestions from anyone.
Thanks. -t.-
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria