HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: [F] [M] killifish, 10 gallon salt tanks (bad idea?)
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 17:37:40 GMT

Michael A. Lucas (lucas@spot.Colorado.EDU) wrote:
: I have this very old (10 years) book on killifish.  These are some of
: the coollest looking freshwater fish I've ever seen.  I've never seen
: any like this at any pet store and I was wondering:
: 1.  Any good mail order places to get the fi or their eggs?

There are very few commercial establishments involved with killies.
However, there is the AKA (Amer. Killifish Assoc.), as well as
numerous affiliate clubs.  There's a fair chance that you can get
a killi-person here on the net to send you eggs (not me, at the
moment), or you can purchase fish or eggs via the AKA Buiness Newsletter.

: 2.  Why are they so rare in the pet stores?

Well, there are a lot of killies that are difficult to keep in large
numbers.  In many species, the males are very aggressive, both to
each other and to similar-sized fish.  Many species demand live food.
Finally, many species of killi are quite shy, and will not swim
around a display tank encouraging people to buy them.  In our recent
tank-reduction program, we (my wife and I) have had to make hard
decisions on what species to hang onto, based on who would not demand
their own tank and who'd be willing to survive on flakes for extended
periods of time.

: 3.  Do they ever really get to look as good as they did in these pictures
:     or was that just some freak mutated fish that the snapped a photo of?

No, that's the real McCoy - there are many phenomenally beautiful species
of killi.

: 4.  The book talked about some killifish association or something like that,
:     is it still around?  Address?

An address... yes, they have an address, but I don't have it with me.
Oleg, you around?
 
: AND, I have an extra 10 gallon tank.  I thought it might be neat to set it
: up as a salt tank for an octopus or something like that.  All the pet 
: store people say that it is a bad idea to set up a 10 gallon as a salt
: tank and then convieniently started showing me thier wonderful selection
: of 20 and 30 gallon tanks which WEREN'T to small for salt.  Maybe I'm
: being too cynical but I'd like to get some advice on this from someone
: who knows about this, and ISN't trying to sell me anything.

Marine fish are accustomed to *very* stable environments - they don't
do real well with fluctuating temperatures, high nitrate levels or
ammonia/nitrite spikes, all of which are more likely in a smaller
tank.  Also, one would only be able to keep a small number of small
fish/invertebrates in such a small tank - most hobbyists don't have
the self control to limit their livestock purchases.  However, if
you think you have the ability to maintain the tank, go for it.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: baskin@watson.ibm.com
Subject: Re: [F] Black Ghost Knife
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:11:27 GMT
News-Software: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.16 by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers
Reply-To: baskin@watson.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In <1993Jan24.032553.15169@socrates.umd.edu> rocky@socrates.umd.edu (Rocky Giannini) writes:
>Help!
>
>I purchased a black ghost knife a week ago, and I don't think
>that he's doing very well.  He's swimming *sideways*, much to
>my distress.  The water in the tank tests okay, and all the
>other fish are fine.  I have yet to see him eat, although
>I've been offering bloodworms, brine shrimp and flakes.  He
>does, however come out of his tube, and nose around in the gravel.
>I saw him suck up a couple tubifex (I tried feeding those, too)
>but I'm not sure if they were actually ingested, or just spit
>out when I wasn't looking.  One interesting aside, one of
>the people at the store I purchased the knife from said
>to feed it guppies, which I thought was odd, cos' the knife
>has a teeny tiny mouth.  Any info would be greatly appreciated
>because it really is a cool fish, and I'd be kinda bummed if
>it died. Thanks in advance!
>

My black ghost is one of my favorite fish.  It swims sideways, 
backwards, horizontal, vertical, whatever.  It feeds mostly from my 
hand, and plays with my fingers.  I keep it in my discus tank; it 
squabbles with them during meals, but otherwise they leave each other 
alone.  I also used to have swordtails and platies in there.  But 
when the ghost got bigger, she began snacking on them at night. 
(Mostly, ghosts are nocturnal.)  There is still one male swordtail 
there; how he avoids being eaten I don't know.

Make sure the ghost has some kind of cave.  Mine prefers lock-rocks. 
Any sort of tube would be fine.  Fish stores sell "Ghost houses", 
which are clear tubes.  Since the ghosts are nearly blind, they don't 
apparently notice that it's clear. Ghosts have a sharp sense of smell,
plus an electric sense; they are related to the electric eels.

You might try feeding at night.  Make the room almost pitch dark, and 
throw in a catfish pellet.  Mine sleeps during the day, but comes out 
when I start feeding.

Mat Baskin       baskin@watson.ibm.com
From: wallace@yngstr.enet.dec.com (Ray Wallace)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: [M] Fast mouth on a Damsel - problem?
Date: 24 Jan 93 23:29:11 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


I have a four stripe Damsel which is acting strangely. He opens and closes his
mouth and gills rapidly and continuously. He is also staying against the
bottom side of a shelf. We have only had him for about two weeks but he was
fine (seemed normal) up until yesterday. He doesn't seem to be eating much (if
at all). Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be? Or is this normal
behavior for a four stripe Damsel?

It is a 20 gallon (marine) tank. The ammonia and nitrites are 0, ph is 8.3,
nitrates are 2.5ppm. The other occupants of the tank (yellow tang, blue devil,
yellow tail damsel, 2 clowns, atlantic anemone, 2 turbo snails) all seem
normal and healthy.

  Thanks,
---
Ray Wallace		
		(INTERNET,UUCP) wallace@oldtmr.enet.dec.com
		(UUCP)		...!decwrl!oldtmr.enet!wallace
		(INTERNET)	wallace%oldtmr.enet@decwrl.dec.com
---
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dbsgrm@Arco.COM (Gary R Meyers(214)754-4191)
Subject: (F) Severums in a community tank
Organization: ARCO Oil and Gas Company
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:11:12 GMT

In regards to keeping 1 severum in a community tank--

Around Thanksgiving, I purchased a used 40gal long tank-Cycled it with a couple
of Gouramis, then populated it. I wanted some "interesting and colorful" freshwater
fish. I suppose I asked too many questions, or else I got what the fish guy
thought I deserved. At any rate, I started with a Green Severum, about 3.5 inches,
what was called a Silver Dollar (I was later told it was a Red Hook), 2 Pearlscale Angels, a couple of Clown Loaches, and a "Parrot" fish (Cross between a Gold Severum and a Red Terror, I believe). These were not all put in at the same time, by the way. I would move Rocks around when I added fish.

After doing some more reading, and talking to lots of others about these fish,
("Wow, Agressive Tank" was heard quite often), and having the Red Hook and the 
Severum work pretty hard on the Angels, I took the Red Hook back. My wife insisted. She would sit at the tank and YELL at the Red Hook to leave the other fish
alone.       

The Severum, at this point was hiding a bit, and the Parrot was pretty docile.
The Severum quickly became the dominant fish. He/She kept everyone moving around
quite a lot. 

I put a couple more Clown Loaches and a Pictus Cat in just after Christmas, and the Severum was agressive enough that my wife started yelling at him, too. Back he went

So... A single Severum is still fairly agressive. Pretty territorial, also. Neat fish, but........
-- 
*    Gary Meyers        dbsgrm@Arco.COM
*  ARCO Exploration & 
*  Production Technology 
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6696 rec.aquaria:10292
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (All)  New African set-up.
Date: 22 Jan 93 14:25:16 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu wrote:
> : I.e.	how to set up caves for an electric-blue haplochromis-sized fish.
> : 	the best type of filtration for this sort of set-up.
> : 	best rocks/gravel to use
> : 	et cetera
> 
> I use crushed coral as a substrate for my UGF. It helps keep the water nice
> and hard.

Would dolomite keep the water quite as hard?  I would like to have a black
substrate, so dolomite, it think, would be better for me.  If dolomite is no
good, is it possible to get black crushed coral?

> I have a layer of window screen sanwiched in the middle of the gravel so the
> fish can't dig all the way down to the filter plate. Mbuna are the worst 
> diggers but even haps and peacocks will dig. If I had it to do over again I
> would use a layer of eggcrate over the UGF instead as suggested by another
> netter (Shine?). Then you can still vacuum all the gravel over the UGF and 
> not just the top layer as in my current setup. Someday I'm going to change
> over to eggcrate (and won't that be fun!).

Where would I go to find this egg-crate stuff?  I've seen it and know what it
is, but hav never seen a 'sheet' of it for sale.  Also, I have about 25lbs of
plain gravel in my 30gal right now and am planning on adding another 25lbs. 
Would gathering as much plain gravel as possible out, layingdown the egg-crate
(if I could find it) as close to the UGF plate as possible, then replaceing all
the normal gravel and adding 25lbs of crushed coral be a good idea?

> In one tank I use lava rock and it looks fine. In another tank the rock is
> around 80% flattish river rocks and it looks better. Casual unbiased observers
> seem to prefer the river rock from an aesthetic point of view.

So just go for 'normalish' looking rocks?  Did you gather yours froma river, or
buy them?  Where?

> I basically fill the tank with rock leaving enough space around the front and
> side glass so that I can clean it. Think about leaving some 'channels' in the
> stack of rocks such that you can reach as much substrate as possible for 
> gravel cleaning purposes.

Did you use aquarium sealant to glue your rocks together as I heard suggested
to keep tyhe rocks from falling down when the fish sart undermining in the
gravel?  Would you recommend this?  One way or another, I think I'll probably
build the rock formation right on the egg-crate, at least before the first time
I tear the tank down.

Any general criticism of my ideas?  My ears are open.   :)

				-Matt
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6719 rec.aquaria:10337
From: jps@bio4.acpub.duke.edu (John P. Sullivan)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: What light can fish see/not see?
Date: 23 Jan 93 15:17:30 GMT
Reply-To: jps@bio4.acpub.duke.edu (John P. Sullivan)
Followup-To: alt.aquaria


	Which part of our visible spectrum freshwater fishes are least 
sensitive to is a question that interests me as well.  I would like to do
night-time observations of nocturnal South American knife fishes without
disturbing them.  

	They do react to even dim red light. I have heard that blue light
works better than red, and I plan to try this.  Does anyone have experience
with blue vs. red light?

	John Sullivan
	Duke University
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: troj@cwis.unomaha.edu (Kevin Trojanowski)
Subject: Re: Catfish in the African tank?
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 22:06:59 GMT

01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:

>Also I have 4 catfishes right now which I would like to keep in the Africans'
>tank.  I have two large (all are 2+ inches) Brochis splendens, and one large
>Corydoras agassizi, and one large Corydoras trilineatus.

>I've researched the two Corydoras species and am fairly sure they can adapt to
>the African's water-hardness, but am not sure of the Brochis species, does
>anyone have any experience to substantiate one way or another?

Yes, the Corydoras will survive in the tank, but since it's not their
native environment, they won't thrive.  Rather than Corydoras, I'd
suggest Synondontis cats -- certain species are native to the rift lakes,
and thus will do quite well in an African tank.  Other species of Synondontis
are native to the African rivers, and thus would do better with African
riverine cichlids.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-                                   "She had what it took: great hair, a      -
- Kevin Trojanowski                  profound understanding of strategic lip  -
- Internet: troj@cwis.unomaha.edu    gloss, the intelligence to understand    -
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- US Snail: 1905 Thurston Ave, #8    deadness which meant she didn't care."   -
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Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: (M) How often to change water?
Keywords: changing water
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 00:15:11 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.204520.16032@sfu.ca> windels@lemon.csil.sfu.ca (Karla Jane Windels) writes:
>How often should water in a marine aquarium be changed and what amount each
>time?
>
>We have recently converted one tank over to salt water and were told
>by the fish store who sold us the new supplies that the water did not
>need to be changed as often as with fresh.  They recommended: once after
>the first month, then once a year after that.  But I've also heard other
>answers.  The books we have don't seem to cover this.

There certainly is no simply answer to this question.  However, I would
say that unless you have a very good algae filtration system or a very
good denitrator going you will have to do more water changes than once
per year!

I think the rule of thumb is roughly 20-30% a month or 5-10%/week.  It
all depends on your tank load and what kind of system you have running.
If you just are keeping fish, then the need to keep water levels very 
pristine is much lower than if you keep a reef tank.

>
>Tank Description:
>  - 72 gal.
>  - UGF w/ two powerheads
>  - protein skimmer

What kind of protein skimmer?


>  - canister filter w/ chemi-pure

I think the bulk of experience has been against chemi-pure in a marine
tank.  Plain non-phosphate releasing high quality GAC is probably
just as good and will probably be cheaper as well.

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student 		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6710 rec.aquaria:10325
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Severums in a community tank
Date: 22 Jan 93 20:49:57 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

(Gary R Meyers(214)754-4191) writes:
> In regards to keeping 1 severum in a community tank--
> 
> Around Thanksgiving, I purchased a used 40gal long tank-Cycled it with a couple
> of Gouramis, then populated it. I wanted some "interesting and colorful" freshwater
> fish. I suppose I asked too many questions, or else I got what the fish guy
> thought I deserved. At any rate, I started with a Green Severum, about 3.5 inches,
> what was called a Silver Dollar (I was later told it was a Red Hook), 2 Pearlscale Angels, a couple of Clown Loaches, and a "Parrot" fish (Cross between a Gold Severum and a Red Terror, I believe). These were not all put in at the same time, by the way. I would move Rocks around when I added fish.
> 
> After doing some more reading, and talking to lots of others about these fish,
> ("Wow, Agressive Tank" was heard quite often), and having the Red Hook and
> the  Severum work pretty hard on the Angels, I took the Red Hook back. My
> wife insisted. She would sit at the tank and YELL at the Red Hook to leave
> the other fish alone.       
> 
> The Severum, at this point was hiding a bit, and the Parrot was pretty docile.
> The Severum quickly became the dominant fish. He/She kept everyone moving around
> quite a lot. 
> 
> I put a couple more Clown Loaches and a Pictus Cat in just after Christmas,
> and the Severum was agressive enough that my wife started yelling at him,
> too. Back he went
> 
> So... A single Severum is still fairly agressive. Pretty territorial, also.
> Neat fish, but........

I think severums are out of the question until I have a tank that I can make
compatible with them.  For now it looks like it's goping to be African
Cichlids.
         			-Matt
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6774 rec.aquaria:10404
From: larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com (Larisa Stephan)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: (All) How much fish should beg
Keywords: feeding, begging, mollies
Date: 25 Jan 93 21:51:11 GMT
Expires: 28 Feb 93 11:59:00 GMT
Reply-To: larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Hughes Aircraft ADS/EOS Electronics Lab

Howdy, all.
I have two silver mollies in a "five gallon" (really holds more like three
gallons) hex tank which I set up about a week ago.  Now that they've gotten
accustomed to the arrangements, they will beg for food every time they see
a human in front of their tank.
If I put in a pinch of food, they will eat it all up expeditiously, even if
I just gave them one an hour before.  I have yet to see flake food go uneaten
by these two!

The question: how much should I be feeding them?  I wonder if one or both
could be pregnant, in which case I don't want to starve her, but I also don't
want to fatten them overly.  (I don't know how to sex mollies, so I can't
even say if there's a potential for either to be pregnant.)  Whaddya say?

Follow-ups default to rec.aquaria.

-- Larisa
larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Black gravel / gravel sources
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:14:00 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: BNR


(My aplolgies if this is a duplicate post, but I got an error on the first
try indicating that it did not get out).

A while back there was some discussion on gravel sources. Of particular
interest to me was the source for black gravel.  Well, I am finally getting
around to setting up my 90 gal that has been gathering dust waiting for a
stand, and called the manufacturer that was given for the "black gravel". 
They told me that the closest distributor to me is in Tennessee (I'm in
central NC) but to just call around and ask for "coal slag" since that is
what their product is. 

Now "coal slag" doesn't sound like something that I want to put in my tank!
 As far as I can tell from Websters, "slag" sounds like either the trash
from some melting operation or maybe some kind of lava (the latter of which
might be OK?).

Does anyone know exactly what this stuff is and if it will be suitable in
the tank (fresh water).  And along the same line, unless someone can
convince me otherwise I guess I will pursue the standard sandblasting sand
route.  As I recall the net.wisdom calls for #3 sand.  Anything else I
should know or is sandblasting sand all the same (surely not)?  I do not
plan on any type of undergravel filter and hope to grow LOTS of plants.

Thanks in advance
dam 


PS

Say, how about a FAQ on inexpensive supply sources?  Gravel, wide spectrum
lighting, ballasts, rocks, driftwood, DIY filters, stands, skimmers, etc.;
the kinds of things the fish stores (including mail order) rob you for!



==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: uchtlds@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Subject: mail order fish??
Reply-To: uchtlds@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 20:07:11 GMT

I live in Bozeman, Montana and I wouldn't call it the fish capitol of the
world!!  The pet shops here are certainly far below average and VERY EXPENSIVE.
The quality of the fish is seriously suspect and you always have to assume that
the fish are diseased and quarantine any new purchases.  It is the only
drawback to living in the "wild west".

I have seen discus breeders that will ship fist to you AND guarantee the fish
for 30 days after they arrive (unlike the 24hr to 3 day guarantee from the pet
stores in town!).  

Are there any mail order houses that will sell, and deliver, fish?  I know of 6
aquarists in Bozeman that would really like to find a better place to buy fish.

Fed-up in Montana, 

Derek Sheehan
Organization: Mythos/Xcalbrin Inc.
X-School: Penn State University
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:56:12 EST
From: Mythos / Xcalbrin <JKK103@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Why did my pl*co die?

I had a similar experience with a pleco dying that I had bought to put in my
swordtail tank.  I was unsure as to whether it would be ok in the brackish
conditions, especially after reading numerous posts and articles about them
being salt intollerant.  But, was stupid and believed the fish shop owner.
Well, after 3 days or so, the said pleco was dead.  And of course no more
going to that store.  If you have that much salt in the tank, you might want
to look for non-pleco algae eaters to stock it.  On that subject, what are
good algae eaters for brackish or fairly heavy salted fresh water tanks?  I
think I heard of somehting called a blackfin shark (dont know if that's
right).  All of you more experienced netters please advise.
                                                           Thanks,
                                                                   Joe Krug
From: bforsberg@tdkt.kksys.com (Brian Forsberg)
Sender: FredGate@tdkt.kksys.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Reverse flow w/550?
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 22:08:36 -0600

This Might Be a Good Idea, but do you have anything else moving the surface
water it will be OK,but if not, I suggest only one or you may cause oxygen
depletion.
From: gs320005@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: [F] (F)Sharks !!! ???
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:43:21 EST
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

HELLO,

I know a person that has 4 Red Tail Sharks and 3 Rainbow Sharks in a 20 long.
They are about 3 years old and 4" - 5" and he would like some more information
on them.

What should the water conditions be in order to get them to spawn?
What is the best type of food to condition them with?
Do they need a swing in temp to get them ready to spawn?

Thanks,

Neal Benson
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria