HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Mike Hughes)
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 15:30:22 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland
Distribution: usa


	GM has a load-spreader kit available for leaky small block chevys,
and I bet that it can be put on a 2.8 valve cover as well.

The kit (P/N 14085816) contains:

4	1.25" X .25" X 20 tpi studs with star-shaped heads
4	"                   " nuts with built-in washers
4	5" Spreaders-steel bars bent so the tips touch the cover first

	The studs should be Loc-Tite'ed into the head.  I would recommend
a GM cork gasket be used, and if desired, one could put GMS (silicone-like
sealant) on the valve cover side, and grease on the head side to facilitate
easy removal and reusability of the gasket.

	Obviously, the above kit is for one valve cover, and I think they
cost me ~ $5.00 (probably 7-8 bucks retail).

	I'll go and check to see if it will fit a '81 2.8L Chev...

	Well, because the bolts are closer together on this motor, I think
I'd cut 1" off the tips of the spreaders so the force is distributed more
evenly.

	Yee-Haw, Mike


:Suicidal Tendencies=====> He's a carrier of death a stork in reverse,        :
: =8^) Mike Hughes  =8^( : he blesses you with sickness cause love is a curse.:
:Mail---floyd@eng.umd.edu: The arsenic in your Koolaid, the bomb in your mail,:
:Voice--(301) 340-0922   : he disappears in motion but leaves a bloody trail. :
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Large Drop in Oil Pressure on Decelleration
Date: 21 Aug 92 22:13:20 GMT
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division

In article <BtC9xr.81H@acsu.buffalo.edu>, bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP) writes:
> I have an 1988 Pontiac Grand Am.  A problem I have been having is that
> everytime I decellerate my oil pressure drops drastically.  If I have to
> brake hard, the severe condition warning light kicks on.
> 
> The oil level seems to be correct and the gauage cluster seems to be in
> correct working form.  I have theorized a possible problem with the
> oil pump.  Has anyone else had any of the same problems?
> 

There's always a drop in oil pressure when you let off on the gas.
However, if it drops low enough to turn on the oil idiot light,
then you may need/want a new oil pump.

 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *  Sure to get `Flamed' if I didn't cross all my i's and dot all my t's ;-)
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 2nd Attempt: Which gas driers harm the fuel system?
Date: 19 Aug 92 05:20:15 GMT
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies

In article <Bt6vG2.4yv.1@cs.cmu.edu> arup+@cs.cmu.edu (Arup Mukherjee) writes:
>This is my second attempt at finding the answer to my question. I didn't
>get any replies to my first post. Surely SOMEONE out there must remember
>which chemical it is that is sometimes used in gas line driers and is 
>harmful to rubber? My original post follows; I think that the two chemicals
>in question may be methanol and isopropanol, but even if they are, I don't
>know which is the bad one.

methanol is nasty, ethanol is marginally acceptable; isopropanol,
petroleum distallates, and napatha are all ok.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: Peter.Hammond@brunel.ac.uk (Peter D Hammond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Again: VW Carb.
Date: 13 Aug 92 14:10:07 GMT
Organization: Brunel University, Uxbridge, UK
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

Ian.Miller@p0.f140.n772.z3.fido.nacjack.gen.nz (Ian Miller) writes:
: Peter, you said:
: PDH>Help: Somebody out there must know somthing about Solex carbs.
: Scuse me, have you tried cleaning or changing the fuel filter. Sounds
: like it's suffering from intermittent fuel starvation at idle. What
: happens when you accelerate?

I'll give it a try. I'll try just about anything ;-).
It accelerates OK, but a bit sluggish. Misfires a bit when cruising,
though. 

Cant help you with your throttle, I'm afraid. I think the postage from here
might be a bit much.,..


-- 
BFN, Pete.

 Dept. Materials Technology | Disclaimer: SERC pay me | You sometimes have to  
 Brunel University          | to report my opinions,  |    listen to
 Uxbridge                   | not for theirs or the   | A lot of useless talk.
 Middx, UB8 3PH, UK.        | the university's.       |         N. Peart. (RUSH)
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 1987-1991 CAMRYS may lock you in the car
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 03:16:38 -0500

 >
 > I have ordered the 1992 XLE V6 so I am not worried. The
 > 1992 is a redesigned
 > car (and shares the same engine and body as its more expensive
well you decided to buy the toyota?? well best of luck with it!! 
I am cureous though--why did you decide to buy the toyo over the 
taurus you were also thinking about?



From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 19:04:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Ford power locks
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech



	Try checking your fuses you probably blew one or two.

		chris wiles

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.physics
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Subject: Re: Need Formula For Tire Friction
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd
Date: 21 Aug 92 02:48:36 GMT
Keywords: differential, transaxle, limited-slip

>In article <1992Aug15.200403.18303@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> richard welty 
>(welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM) replies to:
>>article <h85mx6k.westes@netcom.com> Will Estes westes@netcom.com writing:
>>>I recently had a bad experience with a small "toy" spare tire
>>>on my Honda Prelude.  After driving on it at 50 mph for only
>>>10 miles it heated up almost to the point where it was
>>>smoking.
>>
>>
>>you need to know the characteristics of the tire compound,
>>the weight/load on the tire from the car (and its operation),
>>the inflation of the tires, and so forth.
>>
>>trust the speed rating, and keep your tires properly inflated.


Richard has said on the most important thing here - the heat
a tyre generates is dependent on the inflation, and the speed it
rotates. As the heat comes (almost purely) from the flexing
sidewall, the more it flexes (lower inflation pressure/load) or the
more often it flexes (higher rotational speed), the more heat is
generated. Heat is what kills tyres. The old habit of taking air 
out of tyres before going on the highway always makes me cringe.

Now, 'space saver' spare tyres are often meant to be inflated
to abnormal levels so they can be used on a car that normally
needs a tyre of twice the size. This inflation allows less flex
than a tyre of that size would normally have. Even so, with a 
smaller tread and carcase, the ultimate heat absorbency is lowered.
Ergo, you can't drive on one of these tyres fast for any length
of time. Check the car's manual for inflation pressures and 
recommended maximum speeds.

regards,

-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
From: siegman@SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU ("Anthony E. Siegman")
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electrical Question: Multiple Batteries?
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:25:15 GMT

Anyone out there with experience on using, and recharging, multiple
batteries in a vehicle?

My son is a small contractor, one of whose vehicles is a big old parts
van.  The van gets driven to a job site, then sits immobile for 3
weeks, holding job supplies and a communications radio for the job
crew which is left on 8 hours/day.  This is too much for the regular
battery; after 3 weeks it's dead.

Proposal: Install a heavy-duty (marine?) battery for the radio, plus
an AB switch.  Drive to the site on the regular battery, then switch
to the heavy-duty backup.  When it's time to drive home, switch back
to the regular battery, start the truck, and drive home.  Recharge the
heavy-duty battery either with a 110 V trickle charger at home, or by
switching back to it after the engine is started.

Any pitfalls in this? Will the truck's regular alternator and voltage
regular (12 V) be able to charge the heavy-duty battery also without
damage?  Are there other ways to do this?

(We already know that just paralleling two batteries is a bad idea.)

Responses best to siegman@sierra.stanford.edu, alternatively to
rw.aap.stanford on Bitnet.
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Keywords: Electrical terror
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 20:18:41 PDT
Distribution: world
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths) writes:

> In-Reply-To:  jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
> 
> > plan to replace all that fine Lucas electrical hardware with something
> > that actually knows how to get 'trons from here to there and back.
> 
> 
> Just what don't you guys like about Lucas kit ?  Is there something
> in particular that has offended you, or is it just because they
> aren't made in the US of A ?
> 

 Someone once told me that the definition of *TERROR* was sitting in
the Space Shuttle during launch, and suddenly seeing an ID plate that
said "Electrical System by Lucas...." Aieeeeee.

:-)

> OK, so I completely rewired my SO's Triumph Herald a while back.
> Just don't ask about Rover Sterling heated rear window relays  8-)
> 
>           Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk

For the record.. I had to completely re-wire my '72 Landcruiser to..




*****************************************************************
* Bob Lombard ||  bdl@cruiser.uucp  || 418 Village Center Drive *
*             ||                    || Encinitas, Ca. 92024     *
*  |~~|_                                                        *
*  |    :           "If it ain't green and it ain't old,        *
*  '0-0-''..../\..   .. it ain't my truck                       *
*****************************************************************
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SENTRA Wipers, help...
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 03:12:59 -0500

 >
 > The wipers and the windshield washer on my 85 Sentra died.
 >  The
 > technician at a local workshop disconnected the wiper motor.
 >  He then
 > connected a probe (tester?  Its other end was connected
 > to the
 > battery) for a second or less to the different wires in
 > the cable
 > which was originally connected to the motor.  He then rejoined
 > the
 > cable to the motor and the wipers worked!  I was pretty
 > happy about
 > the quick fix.
 >
 > According to him the intermittent wipers on the car use
 > some kind of
 > relay and that relay was not working properly.  According
 > to him, the
 > wipers might not work the next time I turn them on or they
 > might work
 > properly for years.
 >
 > Later that day, as I was going home, the wipers (and the
 > washer - as I
 > later discovered) suddenly died - after running for about
 > 10 minutes.
 > :-(   So, I think, I should replace the relay.
 >
 > Now my questions are : Is his diagnosis about the relay
 > correct?
 > If it is correct then where is it located and how
 > can one replace it and how much does it cost?
 >
 > Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
 >
 
HEY!!!
it sounds like you found a skilled and honest tech who tried to save 
you some money and do a quick fix.  I think you should go back to 
him and let him earn some money.  While I KNOW where the relay is 
I decline to disclose the information.  Automotive pros have bills 
to pay just like you do.  


From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 23:21:43 -0500

 CA> Just what don't you guys like about Lucas kit ?  Is there something
 CA> in particular that has offended you, or is it just because they
 CA> aren't made in the US of A ?

I think much of their bad reputation was earned from the early electric fuel
pumps, then reinforced by the XK-E starters.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koch@rtsg.mot.com (Clifton Koch)
Subject: GM 2.8L V6 -> 4.3L V6 swap help
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 19:59:45 GMT


  I have a GMC S-15 pickup with a 2.8L V6 that I'm contemplating an engine
swap in.  I want a little more performance out of it, but it doesn't have
to be a race truck.  A V-8 is tempting, but I'm afraid it will hurt the rear/
front weight ratio too much (especially after putting in the bigger transmission
to take the abuse), and it'll be impossible to get to move in the winter.

  I know where I can get a 4.3L V6 fairly cheap, but I know little about the
engine (I'm a Ford guy, as far as engines go).  The engine is an '82.  Does 
anyone know:

  What sort of engine mounts are needed for this model?

  Is it of similar design to the current (vortec) 4.3L V6?

  What type of transmissions can it mate up to (my S-15 is an auto currently)?

  Is this thing a lot heavier than the 2.8L?


  If it turns out the engine is a dog, and isn't a good choice, any other good
ideas anyone?  I'm pretty much determined to either swap engines, or try to
build up the 2.8 already in there a bit to make it a bit more drivable (the
engine currently in there *is* really a dog).

  Thanks in advance.

Cliff
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Cliff Koch
    Motorola Cellular Infrastructure Division
.. [uunet | mcdchg | gatech]!motcid!koch
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15
Date: 17 Aug 92 03:52:16 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <1992Aug14.103223.2686@kth.se> love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer) writes:
>I spoke to an friend of fmine, who used to do development for Pirelli 
>in the seventies, about low-profile tyres.
>
>He warned me about increased stress on the wheel-bearings if you change to
>205's. Since the wheels stick out further from the car any force
>on the outer end of the wheel will have a much higher impact on the bearings 
>than it would have if you drove around with thinner wheels.
>
>Nobody else have repeated this warning though, so I don't know how serious
>it is. One should be able to calculate the difference in stress on the bearings
>given all the data about the bearings and tyres.

I have heard this warning related to Landrovers and other off road vehicles.
People who fit them with wide tyres are putting extra stress on the wheel
bearings etc.  This is even more important if the vehicle is to be used off 
road where there will be greater stresses placed on the wheels. 

-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand --
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:32:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> Even easier is the same car with an inline 6. I've owned a '55 Chevy
-> w/ a V8 and currently own one with a 6. Piece of cake. You've got all
-> that room

 Try a '60 Bel Air.  It's even wiiiider than a '55!

 The 235 in mine is rated at 100hp and 200 ft-lbs, but those must be
pre-smog industrial-size jumbo horses.  After all the racing machinery
I've owned, I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit I'm impressed at the way
the sucker moves.  It'll just ooze up grades my other "more powerful"
cars have to downshift for.  Too much trouble to shift from light to
light?  Just leave it in second or high and pull away, no sweat.
From: Peter.Hammond@brunel.ac.uk (Peter D Hammond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Stuck oil plug,and easyouts-problems
Date: 14 Aug 92 09:49:32 GMT
Organization: Brunel University, Uxbridge, UK
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
: In article <BsvAB9.387@brunel.ac.uk>, Peter.Hammond@brunel.ac.uk (Peter D Hammond) writes:
: |> eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
: |> : In article <memo.566193@cix.compulink.co.uk>, dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths) writes:
: |> : |> > For extra credit:  how do you think they made tubes of tungsten, 6" long by
: |> : Nope.
: |> 
: |> Why do you say they were not made by a powder metal route? 
: 
: Because the guy who worked for that company told me that they made them by
<stuff deleted>

Well, I stand corrected. Sounds pretty impressive to me! Thanks for the
update. Like you say, they may be made by PM now.


-- 
BFN, Pete.

 Dept. Materials Technology | Disclaimer: SERC pay me | You sometimes have to  
 Brunel University          | to report my opinions,  |    listen to
 Uxbridge                   | not for theirs or the   | A lot of useless talk.
 Middx, UB8 3PH, UK.        | the university's.       |         N. Peart. (RUSH)
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Date: 17 Aug 92 23:21:56 GMT
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.

In article <1992Aug17.141644.26469@unvax.union.edu>, romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski) writes:
|> I have a 90 Escort GT and along with every other problem I have had with
|> the car it now has started idleing? around 1600-1800 rpms when the car is

<stuff deleted>

|> The dealer has had the car for as long as I can afford to leave it with them
|> and they just want to replace parts randomly until they can hit the right one
|> I can't afford that. I did get my $130.00 back when it continued racing after
|> the throttle sensor was replaced..

First of all, let me remind EVERYONE that the entire fuel injection
and emissions control system on EVERY car is warranted by the
manufacturer for 5 years or 50,000 miles.  This include TPS, O2 sensor
or just about anything they have to change to get the idle speed and
emissions into spec.  I assume you have less than 50,000 miles on the
car?  	If you need more information call the EPA in Washington, DC at
202-260-2090.  The dealer has no business charging you anything to fix
an emissions related problem, which includes idle speed problems.  I
hope you kept your receipts, you should go back and get refunded
anything you paid to have this gear fixed.  I think the only
exceptions to the warranty are spark plugs and the muffler (which can
rust/wear out early) The easiest way to force the issue is to take the
car to a garage for an emissions inspection, which you will fail.

Two things you should keep in mind are, 1) they are not all like that
although it is a common problem, and 2) a human being made it so a 
human being can fix it (you just have to locate the right human).

As stupid as the EEC-IV is, it will still spill out trouble codes 
with this kind of problem, so instead of 11 (normal) it will emit
13 (idle speed) or some such.

Also call Ford at 1-800-392-3673 and have your vehicle ID # ready,
there may be an emissions recall on the car.  Don't expect the dealer
to volunteer this kind of information, but Ford will tell you about
the recall then the dealer must honor it.
From: feats@vtvm1.cc.vt.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota Camry Timing Belt
Date: 19 Aug 92 10:50:18 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA

I have a 1986 Camry that had 90K miles when the belt did break.  All
that happened was that the engine quit running.  We had it towed to a
dealer and they replaced the belt.  I can't remember how much it cost
but it was more than $50.  Anyway, we now have 106K miles and she's
still running well! 

Does anyone know where to get replacement carpets for the 86 Camry?  I
called the dealer and they wanted over $600 for new carpets which is
TOTALLY ridiculous!!!
From: rtoth@athos.rutgers.edu (Robert Toth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Brakes Question
Date: 18 Aug 92 22:20:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

On a Chrysler the easiest way to do that is to unscrew the caps on the
master cylinder and compress the piston into the caliper with a huge
'C' clamp and a small piece of wood so you don't damage the piston.
This is the way I've been doing it on my calipers and it works pretty
good.  It might be a little messy with the brake fluid comming out but
you can drain some of fluid out of the master cylinder and then refill
after you are done.  Hope this helps out.

...rob
-- 

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
|                                    |Rutgers University                |
|  rtoth@dartagnan.rutgers.edu       |Laboratory for Computer           |
|  rtoth@cs.rutgers.edu              |Science Research                  |
|	                             |Telecommunications Technician     |
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|                                    |Busch Campus                      |
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|      90 DAYTONA ES V6              |                                  |
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|____________________________________|__________________________________|
From: bpita@ctp.com (Bob Pitas)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '87 GN Exhaust system question
Keywords: Long Case Mufflers
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:51:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: ctp.1992Aug19.125107.3394
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cambridge Technology Partners

In article <1992Aug13.120300.11043@philabs.philips.com> gwb@philabs.philips.com (Gert Bruning) writes:
>Recently I read about the new long case super turbo dynomax mufflers, which,
>with some work, can be installed in the GN. The advantage over the 14"
>long mufflers of the same line is supposed to be noise reduction. Is there
>anybody who has tried these on an '87 GN (with catalytic converter) and
>stock headers? 
>
>Also I noticed that there are now low restriction catalytic converters in
>the market ( I think also by Walker). Their case seems much shorter than
>the stock converter. Will these new converters really do an equal or better
>job in knocking down emissions?
        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>Gert
>

Here in Mass, the emissions test doesn't test for particulates.  Cats don't
do much more than reduce particulates by burning them more and reducing
nitrates or some-such.  If the cats are CARB approved, then they're legal
to put on the car, but I wouldn't expect your GN to pass emissions tests
any easier!
BTW, I highly recommend the Dynomax ST.  I've got 17734s on my mustang with
a 2 1/2" exhaust and it made a HUGE difference in HP...  (Lost some torque
though...)  I think they sound awesome, too.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
        ___          
       / _ \                 '85 Mustang GT                        Bob Pitas
      /    /USH              14.13 @ 99.8                      bpita@ctp.com
     / /| \                  Up at NED, Epping, NH           (Cambridge, MA)

"If you go fast enough, driving in traffic is like driving in a parking lot"
Disclaimer: These opinions are mine, obviously, since they end with my .sig!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tom_santos@taligent.com (Tom Santos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Date: 17 Aug 92 17:16:56 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1

Also... my fuel mixture seems to be a bit rich.  I can smell fuel in my
exhaust.

--Tom--