HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ed@kronos.com (Ed Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: K&B Help Wanted! (Was Re: Radio Selection)
Date: 17 Nov 92 06:41:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Kronos Inc. / Waltham, MA
Disclaimer: This posting is a personal opinion and not that of Kronos Inc.

In article <10328@tetons.idaho.amdahl.com> rbs@sawtooth.idaho.amdahl.com (Bob Smith) writes:
>In article <1992Nov13.230049.26052@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, colangel@norm.JSC.NASA.GOV (Michael Colangelo/MDSSC) writes:
>> 
>> P.S.  What kind of motor are you using?  Personally, I like the O.S. brand - you
>> pay a little more - but they are worth it!!  I'd recommend against buying K&B
>> motors - they suck!  K&B motors always seemed to quit on me at the worst time,
>> OS motors run like a top.
>
>Oh, I wouldn't say they suck!  Inferior, yes, but suck??? :-)  I've owned both,
>and yes, the OS is definitely a better engine, but for about half the price you
>can get a K&B BB engine that runs quite adequately.  For comparison, my K&B .40
>BB turns about 12,000 RPM while my OS .40 SR turns around 13K with the same
>fuel and prop.  I've had about the same amount of trouble with both of them
>stopping in the air, and usually this is the result of not having them correctly
>adjusted.  The OS is a little more forgiving in this regard, but properly
>adjusted the K&B runs just fine.  The OS is also smoother running, but for a 
>modeler on a budget I really see nothing wrong with a K&B BB motor.

I've seen the K&B threads before, but I had never encountered an actual
K&B engine until last week at the flying field.  A new student (1st time)
showed up with a nice Royal 40-T ARF trainer plane w/ KB 40.  I/We told him
that we wouldinstruct himm.

I spent most of the day having him start the engine, and taxi the plane to
the far end of the runway.  I would slowly increase the throttle, and the
engine would die.

I could not get his engine to run right; it would die on the runway every
time.  I finally adapted to the engine characteristics, and we had a great
1st flight!  I had to overcome my insistence that the engine both idle and
run at full speed, with a transition between the two.  A couple of times I
let the engine idle for over a minute, and then pushed the trottle up one
clock only to have it die.  I took that plane out to the far end of the
runway at least 5 times, only to have the engine die there.  Very amusing
to my co-fliers :-).

The engine was very consistent; it died every time.  So, to keep it going,
one had to keep it at very high idle.  It flew just fine, then!

My question is: How do I set this engine so that it both idles and
                transitions to full throttle without quitting?

>(Now the Sportsters, that's a different matter!).

Maybe this engine is one of these.

>They're also made in the USA, for those of you so inclined.
>
>Bob
>
>-- 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Smith       Amdahl Corporation    143 N. 2 E., Rexburg, Idaho 83440
> UUCP:{ames,decwrl,sun,uunet}!amdahl!tetons!rbs           (208) 356-8915
> INTERNET: rbs@idaho.amdahl.com

-Ed!,AP$Z J+X
248
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: pje@meiko.co.uk (Patrick Evans)
Subject: Gyroscopes
Organization: Meiko Ltd. Bristol
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 14:19:30 GMT

Gyroscopes
----------

I am interested in the construction of a small, cheap and light system
to sense and report attitude. 

Gyroscopes ! I thought.

Engineering such a thing myself is rather too challenging a prospect.
Where, I wonder, might one be able to buy one readymade.

I have heard of things called gyros being used in RC helicopters. Does 
anyone know anything about them - what they are used for, what they cost, 
how they work, the form in which their output may be taken ? any
alternative technologies ? 

All input gratefully received.

Patrick Evans,

pje@meiko.co.uk
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Friday, 20 Nov 1992 10:46:48 CST
From: Jay Lorenzana <U40348@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Powering a stock Kyosho motor w/ 12vDC?

Hi all,

I was wondering if you can power a typical stock Kyosho motor
with 12v DC.

Will there be long term damage to the motor?
  I know 12v doesn't burn them out immediately. ;)

What will actually happen?  The .65mm wires can handle well over
  10 amps continous.  So what's the difference with the increasing
  the voltage.., to even 24 volts?


-Thanks for your help.
-Jay
         Univeristy of Illinois
               at Chicago

                                   Internet: U40348@uicvm.uic.edu
                                   Bitnet  : U40348@uicvm.bitnet
From: bcoleman@hayes.com (Bill Coleman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Epoxy Sensitization?
Date: 20 Nov 92 17:04:51 EDT
Organization: Hayes Microcomputer Products, Norcross, GA

In article <1992Nov19.221150.11841@primerd.prime.com>, Jim Cook <J.Cook@ENS.Prime.COM> writes:
> 
> Okay, call me curious, what is the sensitization we are talking about here?
> And why is it "dangerous"?

Like any allergic reaction, you can suffer painful inflammation of the skin,
or muscus membranes.

A friend of mine has been working 8 years on a full-scale composite plane. (A
two-engine Rutan design called a Defiant)

After about a year and a half of working with Saf-T-Poxy, he developed an
acute allergy and had to swear off building for about a year.

Today, whenever we work with the epoxy, we use a special "barrier" hand
cream. I don't know what this stuff is called, but it prevents the epoxy
from sticking to your skin. Later, it washes off with water. 

By keeping the epoxy away from direct contact with the skin and properly
ventilating the work area, he has avoided any recurrance of his allergy.

I recommend you avoid direct contact with any epoxy as much as possible.
Rubber gloves don't work. The epoxy seeps through the gloves, and actually
remains in closer contact with the skin.

Use protective cream on your hands.

-- 
Bill Coleman, AA4LR                ! CIS: 76067,2327    AppleLink: D1958
Principal Software Engineer        ! Packet Radio: AA4LR @ W4QO
Hayes Microcomputer Products, Inc. ! UUCP: uunet!hayes!bcoleman
POB 105203 Atlanta, GA 30348 USA   ! Internet: bcoleman%hayes@uunet.uu.net
Disclaimer: "My employer doesn't pay me to have opinions."
Quote: "The same light shines on vineyards that makes deserts." -Steve Hackett.
From: rbs@sawtooth.idaho.amdahl.com (Bob Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Radio Selection
Date: 16 Nov 92 19:11:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corp., Rexburg, ID

In article <1992Nov13.230049.26052@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, colangel@norm.JSC.NASA.GOV (Michael Colangelo/MDSSC) writes:
> 
> P.S.  What kind of motor are you using?  Personally, I like the O.S. brand - you
> pay a little more - but they are worth it!!  I'd recommend against buying K&B
> motors - they suck!  K&B motors always seemed to quit on me at the worst time,
> OS motors run like a top.

Oh, I wouldn't say they suck!  Inferior, yes, but suck??? :-)  I've owned both,
and yes, the OS is definitely a better engine, but for about half the price you
can get a K&B BB engine that runs quite adequately.  For comparison, my K&B .40
BB turns about 12,000 RPM while my OS .40 SR turns around 13K with the same
fuel and prop.  I've had about the same amount of trouble with both of them
stopping in the air, and usually this is the result of not having them correctly
adjusted.  The OS is a little more forgiving in this regard, but properly
adjusted the K&B runs just fine.  The OS is also smoother running, but for a 
modeler on a budget I really see nothing wrong with a K&B BB motor.
(Now the Sportsters, that's a different matter!).
They're also made in the USA, for those of you so inclined.

Bob

-- 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bob Smith       Amdahl Corporation    143 N. 2 E., Rexburg, Idaho 83440
 UUCP:{ames,decwrl,sun,uunet}!amdahl!tetons!rbs           (208) 356-8915
 INTERNET: rbs@idaho.amdahl.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Beginner
From: dave@bclwn.wn.bcl.co.nz (Dave Green)
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 03:24:45 GMT
Organization: Business Computers Ltd, Wellington, New Zealand
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes:
[...]
: A heli typically takes a lot longer.  Some people will be doing hovering
: practice for 6 months before they progress to moving around (intentionally).
: Personally, I started forward flight preparations after 4 weekends of flying.
: Unfortunately, I crashed and burned, decided to hold off on re-building and
: haven't flown since...  But that's something that will happen, like it or
: not.
: 

.. I'm interested to know if the crash has put you off of flying, Steve.

I use the "pick yourself up, dust yourself (or rather heli) off, and start over"
principle myself.

Granted, it may take a little more than a dusting to get the heli back in the
air ... my Shuttle has had multiple tail booms, fly-bars, skid sets etc (reminds
me of the axe I've had for the last ten years, good as the day I bought it ..
it's only had three new heads and five new handles :-) Anyway, after 12 months
of flying_when_I_can, I'm flying circuits and stall turns and working up to my
first full auto.

Stick with it ...

Dave
-- 
    _     _
 / /_) / /   / /  / Dave Green <dave@bcl.co.nz>
/ /_) / /_  / /_ /  Ph: +64 (4) 801-6716  Fax: +64 (4) 385-2752
Business Computers Ltd, Box 3236, Wellington 6000, NEW ZEALAND.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Subject: Re: Gyroscopes
Organization: Syscon Corporate Headquarters - South Bend, IN USA
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 13:01:57 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Gyros used in helis and planes are rate gyros. They only sense
a change in atitude and output a compesating siganl which is
mixed with the channel it is plugged into(usally rudder).
There is a 3 axis autopilot available, its outputs are still
standard PWM r/c signals for servos. I have seen some kits that
allow things like altitude and airspeed to de superimposed on
a video signal which is transmited.

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: vkochend@nyx.cs.du.edu (vance kochenderfer)
Subject: Re: Conversion of radio to RS232
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 23:14:56 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.192827.6372@samba.oit.unc.edu> tracton@radonc.unc.edu (Gregg Tracton) writes:
>
>Does anybody know how to convert a Futaba Attack-4 radio so that it
>outputs RS232 in place of it's radio signal? Then, I could use it with
>a flight simulator.  Also, I'd like it to be easily reversible back to
>it's regular radio functionality.
>

Well, as mentioned earlier, there are a couple of flight sim packages
that come with a modified radio (basically just potentiometers hooked
up to the appropriate pin in the game port).  I'm surprised that some
enterprising electrical engineer hasn't come out with a black box that
takes input from your receiver (servo jacks) and feeds a signal to
the game port.  That way, you could use your regular radio outfit, and
still be able to use it for flying.

Anyone who does this can cut me in for 10% if they're feeling generous...

Vance Kochenderfer
Virginia Tech                    |  "Get me out of these ropes and into a
vkochend@nyx.cs.du.edu           |   good belt of Scotch"    -Nick Danger
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paulm@rachel.storcon.com (Paul Moreau)
Subject: Re: motor speed controller
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 23:01:21 GMT
Organization: Storage Concepts, Inc.
Keywords: motor, throttle, speed control

In article <haley.722033754@ee.ualberta.ca>, haley@ee.ualberta.ca (Richard Haley) writes:
|> I posted my schematic for a speed conroller
|> but it didn't show up.
|> It can be found by anonymous FTP at haley.ee.ualberta.ca

  Can someone who can ftp this please either post a copy or Email me a
  copy ?   Thanx very much.

-- 
          _____________________________________________________________
          -                *                      _______   _~;       -
          -            Paul Moreau               |       =_= /        -
          -    Sr. Diagnostics Software Eng.     \   USA    /         -
          -         Irvine, California      --->  *-_  ___ /          -
          -     UUCP: ..!uunet!storcon!paulm         \/   \\          -
          _____________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: jimt@carson.u.washington.edu (James Thompson)
Subject: Re: Gyroscopes
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 22:02:37 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.141930.622@meiko.com> pje@meiko.co.uk (Patrick Evans) writes:
>Gyroscopes
>----------
>
>I am interested in the construction of a small, cheap and light system
>to sense and report attitude. 
>
>Gyroscopes ! I thought.
>
>Patrick Evans,

Sorry.  Gyroscopes can detect rotation, but not linear motion.  As such,
they're great for keeping track of the attitude of an aircraft, or turn rates
(which is what they stabilize in helis,) but not for measuring speed or
position.

Jim
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Another Fiberglassing Question....
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 09:56:25 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
  <1992Nov16.162843.26528@informix.com>
  <1992Nov17.152802.26427@rtsg.mot.com> <1992Nov18.002234.2910@sequent.com>

< question, how to get fiberglass to lay down 'round corners>

>One technique I have used is as follows:

>	1) cut fiberglass cloth to approx size
>	2) LIGHTLY spray 3M 77 contact adhesive on fuselage (or other piece).
>	3) stick cloth down carefully.  You will not have another
>	opportunity to move it once it touches the adhesive.
>	4) Adhesive will hold the cloth in place over corners, etc.
> 	5) let dry
>	6) apply thin epoxy or polyester resin, it will soak throught the
>	cloth into the fuselage.

I have a problem with this, personally.....  I like to use the 3M-77 method
for wing center-section glassing, using CA's.  Personally, I believe that
the CA will sufficiently penetrate and possibly even disolve the 3M-77
enough that the glass will bond to the wood sufficiently.

However, when using a thicker-consistency adhesive like epoxy or poly resin,
the 3M-77 glue will serve to prevent the epoxy/resin from penetrating the
wood enough to provide a good bond for the glass cloth.  It becomes more
of a fiberglass sheet contact cemented to the surface - not a fiberglassed
surface.

This is opinion, however - I would love to see more expert commentary on it.

One thing I do know about the 3M-77 method - you MUST use the MINIMAL amount
of spray you can get away with, or strength is sacrificed.

  -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: balay@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (BALAY  ERIC ALEXANDER)
Subject: FOR SALE!!!!!!
Summary: SALE
Keywords: I'm
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 06:13:23 GMT

RC equipment for sale:
 
    - Multiplex 14 channel MC Expert Radio System
 
        14 ch proportional expandable to 64 switched
        PCM/PPM transmission
        unlimited mixing
        ch 52 ultra narrow band (5khz spacing)
        4 bb metal gear servos
        instructions
 
        $350.00  OBO
 
    - Graupner Cherry high performance electric glider
 
        87" wingspan
        with motor
        FAST!
 
        $100.00  OBO
 
    - Supertiger .61 w/ muffler
 
        $60.00  OBO
 
 
        All prices are negotiable.  Feel free to haggle.
 
                          email   balay@ucsu.colorado.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: scott@csnt1.ust.hk (Scott Deerwester)
Subject: Sources for blimps?
Organization: The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology.
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 05:10:38 GMT

I'm looking for a source for balloons out of which I could build an RC
blimp.  I've heard of something called "bombardment balloons" that
were evidently used in WWII to mess up incoming bombers.  Has anyone
seen any of these critters, maybe in an Army surplus store?  I've
sourced places that sell advertising balloons, as well as balloons for
aerial photography.  Both tend to cost around $400 for just the
balloon, which is more than I want to spend to get my feet wet.  I'd
be just as happy with a "used" balloon.  In any case, it'll be
free-flying, in a large semi-indoor area, and should be between 8 and
12 feet long and blimp-shaped.  If I could find out where the blimps
for the Media Lab Vivarium project came from...

			    advTHANKSance!
--
_____________________________________________________________________
 Scott Deerwester                |   The Hong Kong University of
 Internet: scott@uxmail.ust.hk   |     Science and Technology
 Phone:    (852) 358-6985        |  Department of Computer Science
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: hqp@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (hai.quang.pham)
Subject: Learn to fly RC airplane
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 17:31:53 GMT
Keywords: RC for beginners



I would like to write the letter to all beginners in RC airplane.
I have been learning how to fly RC airplane since Mid July 1992 after
joining the RC airplane club. My first two ARF airplanes (Kyosho Cessna
and Royal electric sail plane are too fast for me). I bought a used Dynaflite
Piece O'Cake in September at KRC show in Quakertown,PA. It is a very good 
plane for me. I learned a lot from this plane, unfortunately it is getting
cold, not many instructors show up at the field. Last Saturday, I went to
school and to fly alone. The first flight was very good but the second one
was not. I let the plane fly too far with the wind and I got panic, then I
lost it (out of range). The plane was recovered about 0.8 mile away, It
can not be used anymore,the electronic is ok and fortunately nobody get hurt.
The reason I write this letter to tell everybody who is beginner shoul be
careful and be patience.

-- 
Hai Pham                                aloft!hqp@att.com
AT&T Bell Labs
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse)
Subject: Battery Dump - Solved?
Organization: secure_comm
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 12:39:29 GMT

Hello,

I posted recently about having a race day full of battery dumping;  whereas,
I had not dumped so badly in the past.  This was in the Schumacher CougarII
buggy with various motors and battery packs.  I took the car completely apart
and found two items of note:

1) the inner half of the metal slipper can was very solidly attached to the
   layshaft, so that it was very hard to pull off, and

2) one bearing seal was slightly bent.

I putting the car back together, I also put the black seals on backwards
for reduced drag (much reduced).  The dumping problem seems to have gone
away; however, the minor, yet constant glitching that seems to accomadate 
my p-170 pack persists, so I may have to can them.

This was an exciting weekend since I finally made a non-bottom main, although
I may have been wiser to sandbag the qualifiers in order to win the turkey in
the lower main?

Thanks to those who have responded to the earlier posting.
Have a good day,
Bob Woodhouse
From: jtg0707@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jui Tien)
Subject: Beginner
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 22:27:53 GMT

Hello.
I am an aspiring beginner wishing to get into this hobby. I have a few
questions. Sorry if these are faq's. I just found this net this afternoon.

	1.  Where do I start? Fix wing or helicopter? (I like Helicopters!!!)

	2.  How much does flight instruction cost? 
	
	3.  I am instrument rated (plane). Does that make any difference?
	    I have never flown anything RC before.

	4.  How long does it take for a beginner to progress beyond a trainer
	    to a more aerobatic plane(on average)?

	5.  How much does it cost to join a club?

Thanks in advance.
J.T.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Subject: Electric questions...
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 03:14:42 GMT


Hi all, I've got a few questions related to high-performance electric models.
Another guy and myself are interested in building 7-cell F3E style electric models
using vacuum-bagging techniques. Our problem is that to the best of our knowledge,
nobody in New Zealand has tried this sort of thing so there's no local experience
or knowledge to draw on.

At present I'm flying a fairly standard type of electric glider using an Astro Flight
geared 05 FAI motor. This has a very good climb, however it's nothing like the climb
rates that are apparently obtainable by F3E style models (well over 1000 feet/minute
- my electric climbs about 500 ft/min (measured with altimeter watch) and that's
about 2 to 3 times faster than any other electric I've seen). Is the Astro 05 FAI motor
suitable for 7-cell F3E type models, and if so what sort of prop/current is usable?
I presume direct-drive is the way to go, however what sort of current can these motors
take without damage - my current setup draws around 33 A (static) on 6 cells.
The Astro range of motors are the only high-performance ones available in NZ, hence
we'd like to use these if possible.

Also what types of electric contests are flown overseas? We're in the process of
introducing a basic one into NZ - 3 flights of 7 minutes duration per battery
charge with a landing bonus, timing starts from when the motor is cut. This
contest allows simple models to be competitive, since climb rate is not important,
just total height gain per charge. I believe that the US and UK have competitions
that favour fast-climbing type models, involving some sort of multitask rounds.
Could someone please post or email me a summary of the rules (or even the complete
set:-).

If anyone out there has experience with these type of models, I'd love to hear
from you...

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Wednesday, 18 Nov 1992 11:15:26 EST
From: <IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: FORSALE: Protech #706 AC/DC Digital Charger

Forsale:

      Protech 706 Digital Peak Charger.  Charges 6, 7 or 8 cell packs
to peak.  It has adjustable current and goes to trickle charge
after it peaked.  It has a digital read-out of voltage and current.
It will trickle charge one pack while peaking of trickling another!
This is the best charger that you can buy in its price range (IMHO).
      I bought it about 6 months ago.  I wouldn't be selling it now
but I have moved my interests to 4 cell racing and this charger
is not designed for 4 cell charging.  So now I must sell it.
      I payed about $80 for it.  The cheapest mail order price that
I have seen is about $75.  Since it is like brand new and comes with
its orginal box and instructions, I will sell it for $50 and I will
pay shipping.

     Respond via E-mail.

Aaron Brasslett
University of Maine
io10046@maine.maine.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc