HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pisarevsky@b56vxg.kodak.com (Arkady Pisarevsky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Paint Touch-up
Date: 28 Sep 92 13:44:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Big Yellow Box
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Hello out there in Net-Land. I hope somebody have succesfully accomplished 
what I am trying to do and can offer me some advice. 

Back in august I found some paint bubbles on a quarter panel of my Suburban.
After discovering that they were filled with water and there was some rust 
I've decided to sand that spot down and repaint it. Seems easy, right.

Well, I sanded about 6" by 4" area down to bare metal and discovered tiny
rusty pits. They were deep enough that I did not want to take off metal to 
level them. I went to the store and picked up a bottle of Permatex Extend. 
Now, this stuff was supposed to neutralize rust, and you could paint over 
it. Great. I sprayed it on and let it sit overnight. Next day I came back 
to find tiny drops of liquid formed over every spot where there was a rusty 
pit. The rest of the area has turned from shiny metal to black as it was 
supposed to.

I sanded it all back down and put Permatex on again. Same result. 
I called their '800' number and all they could tell me was that I must 
have some contamination in there that is reacting with their product. 
Not very helpful.

Next I tried Naval Jelly. Put it on, give it five minutes or so, wash it 
down, let it dry, repeat two more times and primer. Folowing day the rust 
is coming through the primer. 

Before I resort to a professional paint shop, can anybody recommend a proven 
way to repaint a small area of rust. It doesn't have to be pretty, I just 
don't want it to rust. 

Either e-mail or post. I'll summarize if there is enough interest.
**-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-**
**   Disclaimer:  Eastman Kodak Co. does not support all of my views.    **
**   EMAIL:  pisarevs@kodak.com                                          **
**-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-**
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: Touch-up paint
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1992 19:21:10 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.232747.13148@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu>, ejhupper@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Eric Huppertz) writes:
|> 
|> Well, I got the touch-up paint from the dealer, then it
|> occurred to me that I had no idea what kind of prep was
|> needed.  I assume that I need to strip the wax before
|> I apply the paint (no rust except in one or two marks).
|> The yokel at the parts counter scratched his head for
|> a long time, and then guessed that I should try some
|> household solvent... Needless to say, I do NOT trust
|> this guy.  So I natually turn to the expertise on the
|> net, which so far has not let me down:
|> 
|> 1:  What do I use to strip the wax off my car without
|> damage to the paint?
|> 

Most (if not all) paint manufactures make a "Wax and Silicone" remover that is
specifically made to be used when prepping a surface for paint.  You can find it
near the auto body care products in a *large* auto parts store or paint store.

|> 2:  What do I do about the couple chip marks with a
|> little rust? (if anything)
|> 

Rust is pain. If not properly treated it *will* return.  I am not an expert but
you must remove *all* the rust down to shiney metal. Treat the bare metal with
a chemical rust inhibitor. Apply your sealer and primer and finish normally.

|> 3:  Any further advice about touching up?

Is this touch up paint brush or aerosol ?

I have seen brush types used to 'fill' in scratches and the excess is removed
with a razor blade.  

Good Luck,
$0.02
Ericy


|> 
|> As always, thanks very much in advance!
|> 
|> -Eric
|> (c)1992 Wild Bill's Flea Market and Entropy Regulation
|> -- 

Xref: sparky rec.autos:23450 misc.consumers:17497 misc.kids:25335 va.general:106
From: djm48887@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Daniel J. Moisson)
Subject: Engine additives....which is best?  Slick 50,...
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 04:03:24 GMT

    I have been seeing many more engine additives other than 
Slick 50 now a days.  I was wondering if anyone has heard which one
is really the best.  I just saw some add on TV about DuraLube that
looked very convincing.  I think I have seen one from STP too?
Help!!  I need advice before I throw $25 in 1 quart of something!



Xref: sparky rec.autos:22992 rec.autos.driving:5741
From: gggj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.driving
Subject: DRIVER/AUTO INTERIOR SURVEY!! (plz read!)
Date: 30 Sep 92 00:45:15 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

I am conducting a study here at Cornell University on the design of automobile
interiors, especially those directly effecting the driver.  I'd appreciate your
input on the following questions via E-Mail, it would be really helpful.  At
the end of the semester I will have a paper, which I would be glad to post here
for anyone interested.  Here is the information I need about your
car(s)...please tell me about any cars you use often.

1. Make, model, year, style, class of car
2. Tell me about the seating.  Is it comfortable?  Can you adjust it easily? 
Is it comfortable on both short and long trips?
3. Your height, weight, age and sex. (optional)
4. Are the displays clear and easy to read?  Is there anything particularly
hard or easy to read?  Weird placement of certain instruments?
5. Are controls easy to reach?  Easy to tell what they do?  Do you hit some of
them by accident?  Do you have to take your eyes way off the road to adjust
some things (such as the radio?)?
6. Any other gripes, complaints, or praise about the interior of your car, or
what you want in a car interior, especially regarding teh controls and
displays.

THANKS!  I really appreciate this.  No need to # the questions, just write a
few paragraphs if possible.  Or a few lines.  If I get a lot of responses, I
won't be able to thank each of you individually, so in advance, thanks!

Scott Mandell
607-256-4217  (feel free to call to discuss)
GGGJ@CRNLVAX5.CIT.CORNELL.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Probe / Mercury Capri / Ford Capri - Which?
From: richardk@sdl.mdcbbs.com
Date: 5 Oct 92 09:02:58 BST
 <1992Oct2.152110.1204@rtsg.mot.com> <1992Oct4.232255.18081@koko.csustan.edu>
Distribution: world
Organization: Shape Data  (A division of EDS Ltd) - Cambridge,UK
Nntp-Posting-User: goldsmith

In article <1992Oct4.232255.18081@koko.csustan.edu>, james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy) writes:
> In article <1992Oct2.152110.1204@rtsg.mot.com> pacyga@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Pacyga) writes:
>>In article <1992Oct1.140507.19527@hasler.ascom.ch> kevinh@hslrswi.hasler.ascom.ch writes:
>>>
>>>In article <1992Oct1.103509.1@sdl.mdcbbs.com>, richardk@sdl.mdcbbs.com writes:
>>>|> Greetings car enthusiasts!
>>>|> 
>>>|> There I was, reading my car magazine last night, and it mentioned the release
 
> There is no way any peice of junk Mazda/Ford collaboration is going to live
> up to the German Ford Capri. This car is pure gusto. Sadly the ones
> that came to the U.S. never really got the powerful engines that would have
> made the mustang look like the slug that it has been since '73. The German
> Ford Capri remained in production all the way to '86 and in its final
> form had a high comression CIS injected 3000cc V6 with around 155 hp.
> There was also a tuned version available called the Tickford Capri with 200hp
> 
> --

This is not entirly true! The 3.0 V6 version was superseeded long before '86
with a much more powerful 2.8i version. This had uprated suspension and all
those nasty trimmings you'd expect to see on a cheap car with a big engine (eg
skirts, air dam, huge spoiler...). Yeah the German Capri was fast, but it
handled like sh** and has developed a reputation that most car manufacturers
cringe from. (Hence the doubts about renaming the Ford Probe the Ford Capri
over here in Europe).
  
-- 
Richard King (Technical Support Engineer)         Shape Data (A Division of EDS)
 Internet: richardk@sdl.mdcbbs.com                    46 Regent Street
     UUCP: {uunet,decwrl,att}!sdl.mdcbbs.com!richardk     Cambridge CB2 1DB
    Voice: +44 223 316673 ext. 219                             United Kingdom
      Fax: +44 223 316931          

Usual disclaimer: These are my opinions and probably not those of the company.
                  Therefore please ignore any dubious comments!
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Re: taking fuses out
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 23:17:37 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

>Hey guys anybody ever take a fuse out to protect someone from stealing  
>your car.  I was thniking if there's a fuel pump fuse I can take it out 
>when I get out of my car and then put it back when I want to drive.
>I figure if anyone steals the car they wont get very far since the only  
>fuel they'll be able to use is in the fuel line.  It seems that this is  
>the cheapest way to do it without installing an alarm.
>Any suggestions?

It wouldn't foil serious thieves who probably are already aware of this
potential deterrent, since they may have a pocketfull of fuses and intimate
knowledge of the car's electrical system already. Besides, wouldn't they just
pull a fuse from something else (like the radio or wipers, etc) and plug it
into the missing one? How about the rumors that running the fuel system dry
on an injected car makes it a real bitch to get restarted later (purging all
the air from the lines,etc). How about all the excess wear on the fuseholder
I'd opt for a secret switch somewhere which kills the current to the
electronic ignition and/or fuel injector brain box in line AFTER the fuse.
How about a timer circuit also so that if the secret switch isn't flipped
the engine would be allowed to be run for about 2 minutes? That would let
the thief get down the road just a little ways so the police can actually
prove he was a car thief. I've heard urban rumors about car theives that were
unable to start the car they were trying to steal due to a silent alarm
disabling the starter/ignition/fuel system after breaking a window/the steering
column/etc. and if the thief gets caught, the police cannot charge him with
stealing, only breaking in and vandalizing. Some insurance policies may not
cover "vandalism" damages, only "damages caused during theft" and since the
car never left where it was parked, the insurance company says it wasn't
stolen. One of my vehicle's policies specifically excludes damages due to
vandalism and the agent says additional coverage for that is $400 per year
extra. Considering that the liability+collision+comprehensive(excluding the
vandalism, of course)+theft premiums are $850/year, I cannot afford that extra
coverage. However in light of the general idea, it certainly would be
unnerving to the thief to think he just pulled off a slick job only to find the
car stalled a few blocks away and he cannot figure out how to restart it 
within the few seconds he'll need to complete a clean getaway. Stalled cars
in the middle of busy streets or intersections tend to get a lot of unwanted
attention, especially in a big city.

<--------------------------------------------------------------------->
< Neal Howard                         | '91 Harley Sportster XLH-1200 >
< email: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org     | DoD # 686                     >
< CompuTrac, Inc. (Richardson, TX)    | '69 Cougar XR7-GT390          >
<--------------------------------------------------------------------->
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: djm48887@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Daniel J. Moisson)
Subject: GM Credit Card
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 04:07:17 GMT

I just got a letter back from GM's bank and I was not approved to
get the MasterCard although I was Pre-Approved!!!!  They said I
don't make enough $ being a student!  Way to go GM!  I was just
trying to help our countries automakers by using their card.  Now
I am glad I got rid of that GM car!!
From: pete@introl.com (Pete Ikusz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Chevy Kicks Fords Ass Again!
Date: 6 Oct 92 23:34:52 GMT
Organization: Introl Corp.
NNTP-Posting-Host: introl.introl.com

In article <1992Oct4.155205.29593@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> mperlman@nyx.cs.du.edu (Marshal "Airborne" Perlman) writes:
>Both are nice cars...for some reason the Firebird looks nicer then the Camaro
><the Camaro has GEO STORM headlights!>...but both having 5.7L V8s, who
>cares! I'd take either one.
>Look what ford did..they took their mustang and rehashed it yet again...the
>"Cobra"...ya reet!
>GO GM!

Get a life. We don't need this bullshit again.
I would rather have someone buy a new Mustang or a Camaro over a new
foreign car any day.

FYI: If you didn't know, (you probably did but are just being one sided)
	the new Mustang is one year away. The current Cobra model was
	done so Ford could keep the cobra name, and they increased the HP
	on the engine to the upper 200's.

PS: I also like the look of the new Firebird.
-Pete
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------
Pete Ikusz	Introl Corporation	pete@introl.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Lugging an engine?
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 16:57:05 GMT

In article 6230@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com, shultz_ed@macmail1.rtsg.mot.com () writes:
>I was listening to an auto talk show one time and they have a "question of the
>week" which people try to answer before the next week's show when they reveal
>the correct answer.  The question that I heard was:  Why is lugging an engine
>bad for the engine?  I was not around to hear the answer to this question so I
>was wondering if anyone knows the answer.  From what I gathered from the
>conversation, lugging an engine applies to manual transmission cars and means
>to drive the car in a higher gear than "recommended" for a given speed.  Does
>anyone know exactly what lugging the engine is (i.e. in terms of rpm) and why
>is this bad for the engine?

  Lugging an engine refers to driving while revving below 1000 Rpm.
This puts too much stress on the main bearings, and can bust them
up if you lug(slave) your engine frequently. Lugging will most definitely
wear the bearings more than not lugging.

Andy.

PLEASE IGNORE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.
From: tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Date: 29 Sep 92 15:05:06 GMT
Reply-To: tpickett@auspex.com (Tom Pickett)
Organization: Auspex Systems, Inc.  Engineering

In article <1992Sep28.233537.24208@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, 
newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.cruz) writes:
> Handling might be the other factor. FWD handles better in the snow because
> of the weight from the engine and transaxle on the front end. RWD seem to
> handle badly in the snow because of less weight in the trunk area.
> RWD usual have one turning power wheel (posi has two). FWD has two turning
> wheels.

It's been my experience that well-designed FWD handles quite well as does
well-designed RWD.  i have owned both.  My Scirocco (1978) handled 
very nicely and was pretty much neutral up to the limit (at which point
it did understeer), and the SHO has been noted by more than one magazine
as not handling at all like a FWD car.  The SHO has a fairly good
dose of trailing throttle oversteer and adding power in a corner can
easily invoke oversteer in the car.  The limits are so high, though that
I don't know how much understeer would appear past the limit.

My 1983 Accord is a typical FWD, though, it understeers in a big way.
My wife did manage to spin it on a freeway in a rainstorm once though,
something I have tried to do intentionally, but was unsuccessful at
accomplishing.

The Accord has been up in the Snow in the Sierra many times and I have
yet to have any trouble with it on ice or snow.  I'm careful though.


Tom Pickett 
tpickett@auspex.com
SHO  GOZE
From: ujmli@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Civic SI clutch chatter
Date: 28 Sep 92 11:41:35 -0600
Distribution: usa
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <Bv4BEz.3J9@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, mem28103@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Marc E. Munoz ) writes:
> I have a 1990 Honda Civic HB std (no frills here) and I have both problems.
> The chatter started around 6000 miles, and the warping occurred about the same
> time.  I had the warping fixed when the rotors were turned (around 20k) but
> a hint of warping came back about 6k later.  I had the clutch checked and they ssaid it was fine. (hmmm...)
> 
> I have also noticed that the chatter is more severe when the car is cold.  The cchatter seems to go away if I wash the underside of the car with a      
> high-pressure washer.  Right now I'm at 30k and the chatter gets annoying and
> kinda embarrassing when I'm w/ friends (esp the ones who can drive stick).
> 
> If you anyone knows more please post.
> 
> 			-Marc
> 
My '92 Civic also does the chattering, but only when its cold. Its been doing
it since 3k. I haven't gotton it checked out yet at the dealer. Need to take
it there when i get a chance.

Jason
From: martimer@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Jonathan Peter Sawitsky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Classic 'Tangs
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:25:34 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu

In article <BvI0rt.n4G@apollo.hp.com> heff@apollo.hp.com  writes:
>
>
>I'm thinking about buying a classic Mustang, but I'm hardly an
>expert or mechanic (although I have been learning to wrench a
>bit since buying my bike).  What type of questions should I be 
>asking about '66-'68 Mustangs to attempt to find one that will run?
>
>Should I wad this idea into a little ball and throw it into the
>circular file?  Or should I just learn how to repair and rebuild
>engines first?  Is it a _really_ stupid idea to buy one of these
>as winter's approaching?  Or is there rust-proofing that will 
>protect a rust-free body from the salt?
>
	I have a '66 Mustang. i bought it from the second owner my freshman
year in high school. There are many books on the market that have to do with 
purchasing one, but I have a few suggestions anyway. First, find out how many 
owners, and what modifications they have made to the car. Ideally, you'd like 
very few owners, and virtually no modifications, unless it is documented and 
was done by a pro mechanic. You can't trust other people. Other things you needto check for are rust in the cowl area (not fun to fix) matching transmissions
and engines, and accident damage.
	There is no better way (for me at least) to learn how to do something 
than by doing it. If this will not be your primary mode of transportation, I 
suggest buying one, and working on it at your leisure. You learn a hell of a 
lot that way. Buying old used engines is an option, but it only increases your cost. As for rust proofing, you can buy aftermarket rust-proofing and apply it 
easily yourself. If you have any motor skill at all, this shouldn't be a 
problem. Any reasonably intelligent person with mechanical ability can rebuild a car. And for the Mustang, there are tons of parts wharehouses and support 
lit.  Good luck.
			Jonathan Sawitsky
			martimer@wpi.wpi.edu
>>Jeff Oesterle
>
>'82 Yamaha Vision 550
>================
>"No, I don't know that atheists should be considered as citizens, 
>nor should they be considered patriots.  This is one nation under God."
>                                         - George Bush
><choke> <cough> Say WHAT?!?!?!?
>================
>
>(Disclaim, disclaim, disclaim.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: harihara@methacrylate.ecn.purdue.edu (Deepak Hariharan)
Subject: 87-89 Mercedes 300 series
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 13:13:35 GMT

I was thinking of buying a 2-3 year old Mercedes 300 series
sometime next year.  I was wondering if some one could give
me the approximate price range for the car.  Sorry I dont
have the blue book to check the prices.  Well if I cant
afford that, Saturn is always there to fall back on

Thanks

Deepak
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: amin@doomsday.micro.umn.edu (Amin Kassem)
Subject: Re: Jeep mailing list?
Organization: University of Minnesota
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:44:07 GMT

rhorwell@crab.etwork-a (Roland Faragher-Horwell,crab) writes:
: Is there a Jeep mailing list?
: 
: Roland 
: rhorwell@atc.boeing.com

Ditto.

amin@rsvl.unisys.com

Than ks.
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Whats a Geo Metro (explained)
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:59:37 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

Geo Metros
^^^^^^^^^^ - Please Explain This!

A Geo, is a car comany here in the states, that sells several small, crummy, 
magot shit box cars under the Chevy name.  The cars are made by Isusu, 
Toyota, and Diahatsu (sp?).  All sold under the Geo name.  One such car, the 
Geo Metro, is a small, 4 person car.  The car, is *Very* small, and sports (I 
think) a 3 cyl. engine, and gets 56Mpg.  Needless to say, this car, does not 
have that much power...

----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68 Cougar XR-7, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CL360Twin, Ti/99/4a, Vextrex, Timex
From: jpd3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JEFFERY PAUL DILLMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Classic 'Tangs
Date: 5 Oct 92 23:06:46 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <BvI0rt.n4G@apollo.hp.com>, heff@apollo.hp.com writes:
>
>
>I'm thinking about buying a classic Mustang, but I'm hardly an
>expert or mechanic (although I have been learning to wrench a
>bit since buying my bike).  What type of questions should I be
>asking about '66-'68 Mustangs to attempt to find one that will run?
>
>Should I wad this idea into a little ball and throw it into the
>circular file?  Or should I just learn how to repair and rebuild
>engines first?  Is it a _really_ stupid idea to buy one of these
>as winter's approaching?  Or is there rust-proofing that will
>protect a rust-free body from the salt?
>
>

    My advice:  Check the frame and floorpans for rust!!!!  Of course, check
the rest of the car while your at it.  I own a 1969 Mach 1, that looked good
when I bought it, but when I got it home, I looked at what should have been a
frame.  I ended up putting new front and rear frames, floor pans, fenders,
quarters, a door, etc.  It was lots of fun, although it cost quite a bit, too.
After 2 years of work, I finally completed it.

    I rebuilt the 351 Windsor engine myself (I sent it out to be cooked and
cleaned and bored).  The assembly isn't too difficult, with the right tools.
I suggest buying a "How to Rebuild Your Small (or Big) Block Ford" type of
book.

    Almost all parts are available for the early Mustangs through mail-order
places at reasonable prices.  Most advertise in the Ford and Mustang magazines.

-Jeff