HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: vincent@kittyhawk.ecn.uoknor.edu (Vincent Stemen)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: 66 Ambasador Coupe
Date: 27 Jul 92 23:56:24 GMT
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, University of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA


I am posting this for a friend.  Please respond via one of the
addresses in the sig because I don't usually read this news group.


    I have a question for you antique car buffs.
I own a 1966 AMC Ambasador coupe 2 door that is in very good 
condition and I have been trying to find any info I can on it
or on finding parts for it.  Everyone I have talked to thinks
that it is a 4 door and says it is worth only a couple hundred 
dollars until I mention it is a 2 door coupe then they say they 
have never heard of a Ambasador coupe before.  Is there anybody 
that can help me in anyway?  I would be very appreciative.
                          

                                   Thank You 
                                   David S. Baxter

----------------- 
Vincent Stemen
vincent@kittyhawk.ecn.uoknor.edu  (temporary)
               or
/pn=vince.stemen/prmd=faa.mail/@sprint.com   

-- 
Vincent Stemen
vincent@kittyhawk.ecn.uoknor.edu  (temporary)
               or
/pn=vince.stemen/prmd=faa.mail/@sprint.com   
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley)
Subject: Hot-Rod list access
Keywords: HOT-ROD!
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 13:26:50 GMT

A while back after an  unsuccesful attempt at getting a hot rodding news group
created, a mailing list was created to serve those who supported this idea.
I belive that it is run by John de Armond.  If John or anyone associated with
this list reads this post, please contact me with the latest information about
how to subscribe.  I have tried to send e-mail to the subscribe request
mailer several times but it always gets bounced back.  Thanks in advance for
any help anyone can offer on this.

*****************************************************************************
*   Dwight Brantley    *  Failure Analysis & Reliability Dept.              *
*  Intergraph, Corp.   *  Reply To: brantley@falab1.b21.ingr.com            *
*   Huntsville, AL     *  Voice: 205-730-4456  Cad Conference: 205-730-5824 *
*****************************************************************************



Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: ajmiller@orion.fccc.edu
Subject: re: mopar list
Originator: operman@orion
Organization: Fox Chase Cancer Center
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 15:08:18 GMT


Hi there,

   What mopar mailing list is available. Being an owner of 3 mopar muscle cars
I'd like to find out about this if possible....

                                  Thanks and take care...

                                       A.J.
From: Gudmundsen@a1.relay.upenn.edu (Tom Gudmundsen)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: 66 Nova SS A/C
Date: 31 Jul 92 14:48:09 GMT
Organization: Computing Resource Center

I am looking for an original air conditioner for a 66 Nova SS.
I am restoring the Nova and would like to add Air to it. I know I'm looking for 
a needle in a haystack, but I thought maybe I'll get lucky.

please E-mail suggestions to me.

Gudmundsen@a1.relay.upenn.edu

Thank You
Tom G.
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Studebaker meet in Nashville (7/26->8/1)
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:00:51 GMT
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Well, it looks like I will be making it up to the National Studebaker meet
in Nashville next week after all.  The car will not be there and I'll only
be there for one day (Monday) to hit the swap meet and meet some other
owners and take some video.

Anyone else out there going to stop by?

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car
From: SDDASCOMB@poppy.ucdavis.edu (STEVEN D. DASCOMB)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Info on 1960 Chevy Trucks
Date: 27 Jul 92 19:17:30 GMT
Organization: University of California, Davis
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20


I recently got a '60 Chevy truck to restore and I need:
  1. Info on any good mail order parts houses.
  2. Manuals
  3. Info on any good books that have I.D. info on older Chevy Pick-ups
  4. Any problems with '60 283 V8's?
  5. Any other help.

Steve Dascomb, UC Davis  California
From: chapman@cs.cornell.edu (Richard Chapman)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: vacuum wiper rebuld kit source
Date: 22 Jul 92 16:41:10 GMT
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853

PRO Antique Auto Parts, Windsor Locks, CT offers rebuild kits for
Trico vacuum-powered windshield wiper motors. Cost is about $60, I
think. They also stock some NOS Trico motors ($180), as well as an
electric motor with the same geometry as the Trico motor ($80). I
don't have the address with me, but they advertise in Hemmings Motor
News -- I got it from the 'N cars -- books, parts, services' section or
whatever it's called, in April.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: sclever@nmt.edu (Shawn Clever)
Subject: AJ Miller Where are you?
Keywords: mopar mailing list
Organization: New Mexico Tech
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 01:28:42 GMT


AJ---

Jarvis and I can't find your correct mailing address.  The one listed in 
alt.autos.antique must have had a typo because it all bounced.

Email your correct add. to jarvis@casbah.acns.nwu.edu to get on the list.

Ps.  When you do, tell us about your awesome 3 mopars!




Lizardman.

(Shawn Clever, a '69 Charger 440 dude)




Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: vcook@sierra.com (Victor Cook)
Subject: Re: TIG welding
Organization: Sierra Geophysics Inc.,  Kirkland, Wa
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 18:19:26 GMT

I have a TIG welder that I use for welding mild steel, chrome moly
and aluminum. It has both AC and DC settings as well as a high
frequency circuit. I use the DC settings and a 2% thoriated tungsten
tip for steel and chrome moly. High frequency AC and a pure tungsten
electrode work best for aluminum. Argon works well as a general 
purpose inert gas for all my welding.

Before I bought this machine (a Miller), I used a Lincoln unit for a
while that was actually intended for stick welding. It had a DC 
setting already, so to adapt it, I needed only to purchase an air
cooled TIG torch (~ $125) and an owner size argon bottle from the
local welding supply.      

Setup is a snap. You merely plug the TIG torch into the welder in
place of the conventional electrode holder and hook up the gas line
to the argon regulator. Did I mention a regulator..? Sorry, one more
piece to buy to complete the package.

What you can weld sort of depends on the box you use. Some welders
have different plugs that only allow for maybe a half dozen heat
range selections. Others have a dial with a dozen or so settings.
The best units have a crank thats infinitely adjustable. 22 gauge
sheetmetal can be welded with 20-25 amps on my machine. Anything
more can cause holes to burn thru. I use 1/16" 4130 moly wire for
steel, but silicon bronze can also be used which welds very much
like a gas braze weld.

I also use a 3/32" tungsten electrode (sometimes 1/16" for really
thin or fine welding) and a 3/8" ceramic cup. Cups come in all size
diameters and lengths depending on what size electrode you use and
what the logistics of the weld are. The welding supply can advise 
you on what general purpose setup is best for you.


-- 
 
\\\\\\\\                            Sierra Geophysics, Inc.      >>
     >>>>   \/ | <   < () () |<     vcook@sierra.COM   -or-  ====>>>>
////////                            uunet!sgihbtn!vcook          >>
From: bryan@elara.mitre.org (Bryan Blackwell)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: My anemic vacuum-powered windshield wipers...
Date: 21 Jul 92 12:06:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: linus.1992Jul21.120604.25462
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA 01730

Depending on how stock you want the car to stay - I assume so, since you want to keep the vacuum wipers - this may not be what you want, but another possibility is a vacuum resevoir.  It's basically a can with one-way valves in it so that there's vacuum available for accessories (mainly brakes) on cars which don't have a lot of vacuum at idle.  You can get one at a speed shop or other high-po parts supplier.  High performance engines typically don't have a lot of vacuum, so this is a fairly common item; Mo




roso makes a nice looking one, you could even build your own pretty easily.
From: dbg@slacvm.slac.stanford.edu (David Gustavson)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Interest in '66 Valiant?
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:22:58 GMT
Followup-To: alt.autos.antique
Organization: SLAC

I've been driving a 66 Plymouth Valiant for years, has 185k on it.
I'm thinking of getting something newer, wonder if this car has any 
particular value to collectors and if so how one finds them. 
It's the 273 V8, air, auto, ps.

--------------------------------------------------------------
-- David B. Gustavson, Computation Research Group, SLAC, POB 4349 MS 88,
    Stanford, CA 94309   tel (415)926-2863  fax (415)961-3530
-- What the world needs next is a Scalable Coherent Interface!
-- Any opinions expressed are mine and not necessarily those
   of the Stanford Linear Accelerator Center, the University, or the DOE.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: whs70@dancer.uucp (22501-sohl)
Subject: Re: british car question
Reply-To: whs70@dancer.UUCP ()
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 02:30:24 GMT
Keywords: british car mailing list

In article <1992Jul30.202813.23965@athena.mit.edu> jory@athena.mit.edu (Jory Bell) writes:
>I am looking for the address for the British Car Mailing list.
>I saw it listed in a FAQ somewherre a while back, but I neglected
>to record it.
>Can anyone help me? Thanks.
>
>		Jory Bell
>


You can send a request to the mailing list using the following:

hoosier.utah.edu!british-cars

To be added to the list, I believe you send to:

hoosier.utah.edu!british-cars-request


Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: jsamuels@lawlab_2.vill.edu (Jeffrey Samuelson)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: <None>
Date: 31 Jul 92 13:36:28 GMT
Organization: Villanova University Law School

In article <1992Jul31.063229.1@ntc02.tele.nokia.fi> jukorhonen@ntc02.tele.nokia.fi writes:

>Hello !

>I am looking for Opel GT, a german "sports" car. I'm trying to find such car
>and bring in Finland, when age of car goes over 25 years.After that you don't
>need to pay so many taxes of it. First model is 1968, but only 500 has built.
>In 1969 amount is 30000. So if you know cars or information, please let me
>know.


>I'm also interesting any places where I can find spare parts (new or used)
>Opel Kadett LS Coupe 1500 S '68 and Opel Kadett L Rallye 1100 SR '67.

>Thanks, Jukka

>                                            
If you are willing to travel to the U.K. you might try getting a hold of
a copy of Classic & Sportscar.  It is issued every month and often lists
the odd Opel or two..



                                                     Jeffrey
From: pvr@wang.com (Peter Reilley)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: MIG Welders... Why not TIG?
Date: 21 Jul 92 21:20:49 GMT
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA

garnett@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (Roger Garnett) writes:

>The ARC add-on TIG's I've seen require a 250 Amp DC ARC welder.
>I've got a decent Lincoln AC/DC 225, which wasn't exactly cheap, and
>still misses the required current.

	250 Amps? Way overkill, I rarely use over 100 Amps.

> TIG adapters can cost more than cheap
>MIG setups. 

	Maybe in some cases, but a cheap TIG has got to be cheaper
than a cheap MIG.    A TIG has a simpler torch.   There is
no wire feeder with TIG.   You only have to buy a few rods
of welding material not a whole spool.

>There's a hi-frequency unit (for starting), plus a
>gas tank & regulator.

	Both required for MIG.

> Any "better" TIG setup will also have a foot
>control pedal, and a water cooled torch.

	Some sort of switch is a big help.   Water cooling would
be required for heavy continuous work.   Both true of MIG.

> I have yet to see any acceptable
>TIG setups that are cheaper than reasonable MIGs, altho there are
>now complete units for under $1000. BTW, I think Sears lists the Lincoln
>TIG add-on unit, for anyone interested.

	The TIG unit that I bought from Sears 4 years ago was not Lincoln,
but I don't have the manufacturer info in front of me.

>   ________
>  /___  _  \        Roger Garnett              (Roger_Garnett@cornell.edu)
> /|   ||  \ \       Agricultural Economics   | South Lansing Centre For 
>| |___||  _  |      3 Warren Hall            | Wayward Sports Cars
>| | \  |   | |      Cornell University       | (Lansing, NY)
> \|  \ |__/ /       Ithaca, N.Y. 14853       | (607) 533-7735
>  \________/        (607) 255-2522           | Safety Fast!
-- 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Peter Reilley ..... pvr@wiis.wang.com ..... KA1LAT <<<<<<<<<<<<<
                     Well, that about says it.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson)
Subject: '52 Kaiser for sale -- some damage
Summary: A tornado made it unrestored but drivable
Keywords: Kaiser, original, damaged
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 05:59:36 GMT

	Here's the story: my grandfather was the original owner of a
'52 Kaiser.  Over the years, we restored it to stock condition, right
down to the spark plug boots.  Even the radio worked!  Anyway, prior to
the first coat of paint over the primer a tornado went through Council
Bluffs and felled a tree on it, and drove a branch through it.  Summary:

	Stock everything, minus interior.  The interior was restored to
spec by a local shop.  We took off the ornaments and primered the body,
then a tornado came through.  There's a 6" hole in the driver's side front
door (4-door sedan), but no harm to the fender or quarter panel.  The
roof was caved in and the front and rear glass destroyed.  We did manage
to pound out the roof, but the glass is still gone.  That's about it, really.
The car is easily restorable for somebody with another door or who is willing
to bondo up the hole, but we're both just sick from the damage.  I'm in
college and he's 75, so restoring it isn't in the near future.

	It's stored under a tarp, and still runs.  It runs pretty good,
to be honest.  If you are serious about wanting one, e-mail me and I'll
take some Polaroids of it under sunlight (you can specify the shots)
and Snail-mail them to you.  You will have to arrange driving/trailering
it from Council Bluffs, Iowa.  Newer tires will help in a long drive (the
ones on there now are fairly old and I wouldn't trust them).  We have
some extra parts, including block crank, cam, rear passenger door,
radiator, instruments, and some misc stuff lying about.  Paint is your
problem -- this is primered, but not ready anymore.

	Three-on-the-tree, electric overdrive, carbeurated Continental
flathead 6, six-volt electrics, most driveline parts overhauled and
running fine.  There are some cracks on the steering wheel.  I haven't
seen the thing in a year, but we're both thinking of selling it, hence
my post.  Book value for restored is about $5000, so what's it worth?

	If you're serious, mail me and I'll talk to Grampa about it
and send you some pictures.

<Dan Sorenson, DoD #1066 |"There'll be angels on Ariels in leather>
<z1dan@exnet.iastate.edu | and chrome, Ridin' down from heaven    >
<viking@iastate.edu      | just to carry me home." -- R. Thompson >
< ISU thinks I need more education, which they provide for a fee. >

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: what welder to use for exhaust
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 18:39:55 GMT


I'm planning on welding up some custom exhaust pipes and all the recent
talk about MIG and TIG has me wondering which I should use.  I'm hoping
to use stainless pipes and welding on flanges where the pipes bolt up
to the muffler on one end and the manifold on the other.  Is this
something that should be TIG'ed or is MIG okay?

BTW, this is for my '77 VW microbus and the pipes will be replacing
the heat exchangers.

Thanks for any info!
Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: cdenzler@sierra.com (Chris Denzler)
Subject: Info wanted on light rolling chassis
Organization: Sierra Geophysics Inc.,  Kirkland, Wa
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:13:21 GMT

 I am looking for info and ideas for a light rolling chassis.  It must be
rear wheel drive, probably engine in front.  I have a wadded Kawasaki 1300
6 cylinder (thanks to my brother) motorcycle and am considering mounting
the engine in a light sports car of some kind.  It looks like it should be
pretty simple, a driveshaft and engine mounts would be the only major
fabbing.  I have heard of a car called the Berkeley (sp?) that is pretty
light, if one could be found.  I think they were chain drive, though.  This
engine is shaft drive.  It would be nice to find a chassis that parts were
somewhat obtainable for, and around $1000 or less.
Any Ideas?
                        Advance thanks,
                                         - Chris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris Denzler           WMRRA #5    1980 CX500         1991 Ducati 851
cdenzler@sierra.com  1981 KZ1300   1978 Italjet RX50     1985 RZ-350 
"I'm smiling because I have absolutely no idea what's going on."
From: stratton@cwis.unomaha.edu (Dan Stratton)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: RE: 60's-70's.nostalgia
Date: 24 Jul 92 21:42:07 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha

>>the  "Green hornets" car
 
>Based on a Lincoln
 
It was a Chrysler Imperial customized (Kustomized) by George Barris
I believe Barris also built the Monkee-mobile. I know that he built
the original Bat mobile from a Ford show car from the 50's, the Futura,
if I remember correctly. There were a few fiberglass copies (2-3?) of
the Batmobile also made for backups, shows, ect.
 
Dan Stratton
 
PS. My difficulty in posting this reply shows I know more about 60's
cars than operating computers...too bad my work is in the computer field
;>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: doug@DSG.Tandem.COM (Doug Bering)
Subject: Re: MIG Welders... Why not TIG?
Organization: Tandem Computers Inc., Cupertino CA
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1992 21:43:53 GMT

MIG welders are typically used for production where you wish to do a
lot of welding fast.  You can lay down continuous metal without having
to stop and put in another stick electrode every few inches.  Almost
all automatic welding is done with MIG.

TIG, on the other hand, is much more "artzy".  You can do very high
precision work on exotic materials.  Just like at a bicycle frame some
time for a look at TIG welds.  TIG uses an air cooled (up to around
140 amps) or water cooled (higher) electrode holder that also focuses
the gas to provide an inert atmosphere around the melt zone.  The 
tungsten electrode is called non-consumable, because it does not melt
and is not consumed (except when you stick it to your weld and then have
to regrind it to the point or ball end it needs).

TIG on most metals uses DC electrode negative to create the arc.  Then
you feed an uncoated rod (usually 36" long) to act as the filler metal.
There is a heat-dip-move motion you develop that gives the final weld
the characteristic ripple that is so appealing.  In reality, you are
creating a series of overlapping spot welds that give the penetration,
strength and appearance you want.

To use TIG on metals like aluminum and magnesium you need a high freq.
AC mode of operation.  This makes it relatively easy to get good welds
in what is traditionally a hard metal to work with.

There are a lot of combination MIG/TIG welding outfits available, but
they cost a fair amount (typically upwards of $1000).  There are DC
converters that let you take your standard AC welder and make it DC.
There are adapters that let you hook a TIG torch to these and there
are even foot pedal operated gas flow and current control switches so
you can get the high control that you need for TIG.

I just finished a course in MIG & TIG (more precisely called Gas Metal
Arc Welding - GMAW & Gas Tungsten Arc Welding - GTAW) where we got to
use a wide variety of gear on a wide variety of materials.  In my own
personal opinion, I'll take TIG over MIG for most work.  Yes, it is
slower than MIG, but the good looks and the satisfaction you get from
doing it is worth it.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: Lee H Page Jr <lpage@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 1948 Willys
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:38:29 GMT

I have a 1948 Willys pickup truck with a small dump bed on it.  It has the
original flat head four cylinder engine and would make a great street rod.  
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: nick@aimed.uucp (Nick Pemberton)
Subject: Questions about evaluating a 1964 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III
Organization: Amaron Canada, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 92 20:47:17 GMT

Greetings. 

My father owns a 1964 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III. He bought the car new in
1964. He has now decided that he would like to sell the car, and has asked us
all for our input on what it might be worth (and also what someone might be
willing to pay, which may be quite different). Let me describe it and its
use over the years a bit.

The car is what I, in my ignorance, would haved called a class 'B' car: It
is in excellant mechanical condition: It has recently had new brakes, a new
clutch, and various other smaller mechanical upgrades. In every year that it
has been on the road, it has never broken down (which I'm told is amazing
for this car). It has never been driven in winter, nor has it been stored at
temparatures below 40 (F). When my brother and I got it out of storage this
year, the car started on the first crank. In short, mechanically it is a 
great car.

However, the body is not as good. But it isn't bad either. There are no major
rust spots. The chrome is all fine, although it is a bit blotchy in some
spots. The underside still has the original paint on it, as does the engine.
It has got a hole in the right rear fender, where it was hit by a motor cycle
at the ripe old age of 2. And the body paint is appalling - faded and patchy.
It was (and still is, I suppose) british racing green. It had a new softtop
roof on it about 10 years ago, but the rear plastic window has of course
become useless. It is apparently quite rare in that it has a cherry wood dash,
and the original rear view mirrors mounted right up on the front near the
headlights, much like the older healeys. It also has the smaller rear
indicators.

It was used by my father from 1964 to 1972. He put about 30,000 miles on it.
He then put it on blocks for ten years, until I got it out in 1982. I drove
it in the summers from 1982 to 1987. My brother did likewise until 1990. It
has been stored since, and now has about 42,000 miles on it.

So what should we do about evaluating its worth? We have never joined any
clubs, or done any thing with the car other then drive it. I never really knew
what the car was when I was growing up - It was just the Healey, so I had no
idea if it was a special car or not. Since my brother and I have moved away,
and my father has no interest in it anymore, it is time for it to find a 
new home, but we want it to go to the right person for a fair price.

Any thoughts on how we should proceed? Who we should contact?

Thanks in advance,

Nick
-- 
Nick Pemberton           nick@aimed.uucp          Voice: (416) 690-0647 
Amaron Canada      uunet.ca!seachg.ca!aimed!nick    Fax: (416) 690-0840
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique