HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 04:13:09 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <l14m0br@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>
>>: I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
>>: I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
>>: train in it...
 
>>Keep in mind that some collecter in the future is going to curse you eternally
>>if you do anything to structurally modify the car, so that the original, PROPER,
>>engine cannot be put back in.
>
>>If you don't want to deal with the Lucas electricals and the crappiness of the
>>engine in general, perhaps you should just drive a Toyota or Nissan.
>
>>I personally feel that he is trying to 'improve' the Mona Lisa with
>>a crayon, however.
>
>Ya, I bet everyone who has sat on the side of the road while the Lucas,
>Prince of Darkness, lights forgot to suck darkness and the ignition forgot
>what it was supposed to do because the piece of garbage bag wiretie
>some "Fine British Craftsman" used to make the connection rusted in two,
>would have other terms for this "masterpiece" than Mona Lisa.  

So we have both sides of the coin.  If you stay original you have a 1950's
car which has been driven,  possibly quite heavily, for nearly 40 years.
Of course it is going to be unreliable,  rusty, tired etc.  
But if you get the 'Tractor' engine professionally reconditioned it will run 
for another 40 years.  Will the Jap engine do the same.  Do you think the
engine block will last anything like 40 years,  let alone the engine control
chips.  The car was simple and reliable when new and can be again.

The decision you are faced with is whether to suffer all those things and 
strive to return this car to it's original condition,  with all the 
faults therein and have a collectible and valuable veteran car which will
increase in value and look really good on those classic car rallies.  
Or
Do you replace the engine with a new Jap engine,  hey lets change the shocks
maybe lower the front a bit and put some really BIG wheels on the back.  Some
shiny pipes along the side....


Which gives you a greater feeling of awe when you look at it.  A model 'T'
Ford with original seats, original tyes,  wheels and engine,  lovingly 
restored and gleaming under the layers of wax.
Or
A brightly painted, hotted up 'T' bucket with wide wheels and chrome and 
enourmous carbs and gleaming under the layers of wax.

There is precious little middle ground.  If you like the looks but can't 
hack the effort of restoration buy a Toyota powered replica and sell the 
car to an enthusiast.  Ditto if you can't hack the effort of ruin^h^h^h^h
turning it into a Hot Rod then sell it to someone who can.

If you put the Jap angine in it may look right but it won't _sound_ right.

Or you could buy a Toyota for driving to work and use the TR at the weekends 
when it doesn't matter if it breaks down.  That is all part of the pleasure 
of owning a classic car after all.

Derek "Just my 2 cents worth" Tearne

-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand --
From: met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tire speed ratings ?
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:43:01 GMT
Organization: Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff AZ

In article <moseley.50.713750852@u.washington.edu> moseley@u.washington.edu (Steve L. Moseley) writes:
>GT+4 P205/55VR16. Have they stopped putting the "V" on the tire size? What I 
>as well. Can I assume that the tire I got is actually V rated even though 
>the  "V" is not in the size designation on the tire?

NO, Do NOT assume this. An 'R' rated tire is the lowest rated tire they
make and a 'V' rated tire is one of the top. The speed and traction
rates are DRASTICALLY different. Use of these dis-similar tires on your
vehicle can and probably will cause a disasterous and possibly fatal
accident.
Verify the rating via the Tire Rack AND another Goodyear distributor.

>__________________________________________________________________________

***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto 
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1965 "A" code Mustang
***************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu (Eric Hvozda)
Subject: Re: Color Match - Bullsh*t
Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 14:25:57 GMT

In article <fagundes.713633188@vincent1.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:
>  I recently tried this color match crap on my 76 Mavery and the front of
                                                ~~~~~~~~~
>my car now looks like trash!  Appearently this stuff does not work at all
>with somekinds of paint.  

I thought that ColorMatch was only for Clear Coat finishes only...?
-- 
Ack!                             esh101@psuvm.psu.edu             ESH101@PSUVM
hvozda@vivaldi.psu.edu           hvozda@wilbur.psu.edu            DoD #0217
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: peter@access.digex.com (peter baltimore)
Subject: Brake pedal -'92 Lincoln -Strange Noise When Starting Off
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 14:41:34 GMT
From: ingram@sequent.com (Bill Ingram)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Bridgestone Tires
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:26:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug12.172621.2491
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.


 I am trying to find a matching Bridgestone tire for my "new"
 spare so I can put both on the vehicles rear axle. The tire is
 approx. 5 yrs old, so I don't know if this tire is still made. If 
 not then something very comparable in the Bridgestone line, if 
 known. Heres the specs: mdl SF-407 size 185X70HR 13. 
 Is there a 1-800 # for Bridgestone?
 Any help is appreciated.

 Bill
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:38:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> My advice is to evaluate the car and set some objectives for it. If
-> it can readily be restored to fine, original condition, I would
-> install an original engine. But if the body and interior are pretty
-> well clapped out, I would install a Jap engine.

 Maybe he just wants something more powerful, cheaper, and with parts
obtainable at the corner parts place instead of FedEx from a Triumph
specialist, and he doesn't care much for originality.

 The engine in my Spitfire well and truly sucked.  And then the
crankshaft broke in half (two pieces, right in the middle).  I bought a
Cortina 1600 and four speed to replace it with, but got smart and sold
the car before I went any further.
                                   
From: divitt@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Divitt)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1992 21:18:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Acura Integra clutch questions
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

/ hpcc01:rec.autos.tech / iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early) /  7:40 am  Aug 10, 1992 /
In article <39670085@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> divitt@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Divitt) writes:
>
[stuff deleted]

>>    P.S. I don't "ride" the clutch and try not to "lug" the engine too much,
>>	 but I find that you need to spin a least 2-2.5k RPM from a stop to
>>	 keep from stalling the engine (ie. seems to have a light flywheel).
>>

>WHAT!, 2000 rpm?  No wonder you're eating clutches.  Only racing clutches with
>really tight springs can withstand that.  Better look to your engine to find
>out where your power is.

>Steve
>----------

  Steve,
	I guess I meant about 2k, "at least" is misleading.  BUT, you obviously
	don't have or haven't driven a pre-90 Integra.  The engine has almost
	NO low-end torque and needs to be spun a little to get the thing to
	move from a stop.  Another poster stated that 1.5k should be enough,
	and he is right in most cases, but just "blipping" the RPM to 1 or
	1.2k or so WILL stall the engine and leave you in the middle of the
	intersection at a green light restarting the car.  BTW, I have been
	driving manual transmission cars for 12 years and I know how to let
	out the clutch.  I think i'll have to look into adjusting the clutch
	more often, but still it shouldn't have gone out a 41k.  Just goes to
	show, maybe Acura's are not God's gift to Man and EVERY car has a 
	weakness or two.  That should get some flames burnin' ;-)

Mark
**************************************************************
     Yo Ho Ho Ho,
       	          A Pirate's Life for Me
divitt@hpcc01.corp.hp.com  
**************************************************************
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 20:36:11 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com> writes:

> Ooops.  My car doesn't have spark plug wires... no alternator.  My
> mixture is still rich though.
> 
> --Tom--

 HUH ?? What charges you're battery, magic ???



*****************************************************************
* Bob Lombard ||  bdl@cruiser.uucp  || 418 Village Center Drive *
*             ||                    || Encinitas, Ca. 92024     *
*  |~~|_                                                        *
*  |    :           "If it ain't green and it ain't old,        *
*  '0-0-''..../\..   .. it ain't my truck                       *
*****************************************************************
From: ecrjbruce@economics.adelaide.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Turbocharger Rebuild
Date: 20 Aug 92 11:24:12 GMT
Organization: Economics, University of Adelaide

In article <1992Aug17.023456.9980@augean.eleceng.adelaide.edu.AU>, abeaumon@augean.eleceng.adelaide.edu.AU (Andrew Beaumont-Smith) writes:
> Can anyone who has experience with turbocharger rebuilds give me some help.
> I am putting a Garrett (AirResearch) T2 unit on a 1600 Fiat motor, i
> bought a second hand turbo which appears in good condition except the 
> shaft has 25 thou play in it. I have read the book by McInnes (?sp) on
> turbocharging (HP books) which says 4 thou is normal for floating bearings.

Don't worry too much about this, seems  OK from what I can recall.

> All other parts (housings, impellers, wastegate, actuator) appear good.
> I spoke to a shop who deals in them, this is what he said:
> 1) Rebuild kits are available (at $200) - includes bearings and seals
>    but they are a recent addition and are generally not 100% successful.

If you are a patient type and don't rush the job there should be no problem.

> 2) Buy a new guts - cost $800.
> 3) Buy a good second hand unit $450. (how good??)
> What is wrong with rebuild kits? if the shaft is ok, is it a simple job to
> replace bearings and seals?. Is any special equipment required ?

Nothing wrong with the kits, just a challenge to actually put everything in the
right spot.

> Any special things i should look for when i 
> disassemble it? Is $200 reasonable for bearings + seals?
> thanks, andrew

Andrew,
       the most important thing you can do is take the unit casing and other
parts  to Parafield Airport  and get them to crack test it.  Having had a turbo
lose it on me during a particularly strenuous time trial I can guarantee itis
money well spent.


regs

Rob

regs

Rob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: robc@Newbridge.COM (Rob Craig)
Subject: Repairs To My Car (newbie)
Organization: Newbridge Networks Corporation
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 23:26:41 GMT

Hi,

Faced with a repair bill for about four hundred bucks I figured
perhaps it was time to start doing things for myself.  The two
current problems with my car are:

1) The timing belt is toast.
     - how hard would it be for a newbie (to home car repair) to
       fix this?
     - I understand that I'd have to remove enough to reach the
       timing belt
     - I've got to install a new one in the right position
     - and I've got to use a timing (strobe) light on it
     - if this is something I can do myself, where would I look for
       details?  (I've got a Chilton's(sp?) manual for my car, an
       84 Acadian, but it assumes more background knowledge than I
       possess)

2) The rad is toast.
     - this seems like something I should be able to do myself
     - I just get another one (used/reconditioned), rip off the
       hoses, and put them on the new one?
     - again, where do I go for more detailed info?

Any help would be appreciated.

Rob.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 20:53:26 GMT


All together now:

EEC-IV!! EEC-IV!! EEC-IV!! EEC-IV!! 

There is nothing you can do about it. The computer cannot handle the car's
wearing past certain points, and goes brain-dead. How's your mileage?

	-Kenny

p.s. - sure, this sounds like ranting, but name *one* person who has success-
  fully been able to *keep* the idle in an EEC-IV car steady once it starts
  screwing up. Every sensor under my hood's been changed trying (thank God 
  for junkyards & wholesale houses).
-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
Not one of the "PC" weenies.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Help for My '85 Colt Turbo
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 17:40:04 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Good cold starting and poor hot starting often means an excessively rich
mixture at idle or part throttle. If you smell gas then suspect a leak
somewhere. Some carbs have construction which is prone to leaking from
the bowl to the intake. If the choke doesn't open properly from gum or
a messed up mechanism, that will also hurt.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pod@suite.sw.oz.au (Paul O'Donnell)
Subject: Mobil 1 false advertising case.
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd
Date: 20 Aug 92 04:15:06 GMT

A few weeks ago I posted an article that appeared in "The Australian"
regarding Castrol taking Mobil to the Advertising Standards Council
over advertising claims about Mobil 1.

Mobil won.  Here are some selected quotes from todays "The Australian".

The executive director of the ASC, Mr Colin Harcourt, said that Mobil
had done a better job of p[roving its claims than Castrol had done
of disproving tham.

"Mobil did a pretty good job substantiating its claim with a wealth of
serious material." he said.

This is believed to include test data on a BMW 325i which revealed
engine wear within the manufacturers tolerances after running for
320,000km using Mobil 1 synthetic oil.

The comapny also claimed that the catalytic converters were still
effective after 320,000km and that emissions were within new car
limits.

-- 
Paul O'Donnell                           |So Avon, what does it feel like
pod@softway.sw.oz.au                     |to be a god?" (Blake)
Softway Pty Ltd                          |
Phone: +61 2 698-2322 Fax: +61 2 699-9174|"I would think you'd know." (Avon)
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Clocks anyone?
Date: 12 Aug 92 22:43:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Aug12.224304.14958
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Aug12.170242.17824@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>In article <h645788@pro-haven.cts.com> shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
>>I noticed today that the factory clock in my truck started working again, for
>>the thirty millionth time...  It seems that every Chevy truck factory clock
>>will run for about the first 25K miles, then it'll quit for several months,
>>and then work for a few weeks, then quit, etc etc ad infinitum.  
>>
>
>Take the clock to a competent watch/clock repair shop and have it cleaned and
>oiled. (Don't do it yourself - the oils they use are far better refined than
>what you can buy at the hardware store, so to avoid future gumming up.)

	I was under the impession that it was not a "gumming" problem,
but an electrical contact.  The old mechanical (pre-quartz) units use
an electrically wound spring to run the clock...when the spring unwinds
enough, an electrical contact is made which winds the spring back up.
Over the years the contact corrodes, and becomes unreliable (tap on 
the clock or hit a bump to get it going again).  Just clean up the
contacts and it should be as good as new (or if it is a borg unit,
replace it with the quartz guts from Whitney).


--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Coolant DIsposal
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:35:18 GMT
Organization: Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff AZ

I did a little checking around here and found that a local truck stop
employes an anti-freeze recylcing program and will accept your used 
coolant. Check your phone book for truck stops as these are the most
likely candidates for waste disposal.

***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto 
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1965 "A" code Mustang
***************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eeh@gasco.uucp (Eric Hutchinson x1589)
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Organization: Northwest Natural Gas, Portland, OR
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 22:03:46 GMT

In article <Bt5L2A.Dop@taligent.com>, Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com> writes:
> Ooops.  My car doesn't have spark plug wires... no alternator.  My
> mixture is still rich though.
> 
> --Tom--

No plug wires. Hmmmmm, just what powers this thing.  This might have an affect
on performance. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: woods@sab46.larc.nasa.gov (Peter Woods)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 15:26:53 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.063427.9552@mr.med.ge.com>, hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
|> saundersb@gtephx.UUCP (Bary Saunders) writes:
|> : I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
|> : I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
|> : train in it...
|> : Has anyone out there done this?
|> : I have heard nothing but bad things about the
|> : original english tractor motor.
|> : I love the lines of the car, but I'd like it to be reliable.

STOP!  DON'T DO IT!  MISTAKE!  YOU'RE GONNA REGRET IT!

Why do you want to ruin a 'semi'-perfect car?  Take it from a guy who owns a
'62 TR3B.  It's not quite the same as your 3A, but close enough.  I drive mine 
everyday during the summer, rain or shine.  (Of course, sometimes I get wet.)
The ol' tractor engine is the most reliable part of the car.  It has plenty of 
power for such a little car and is fairly efficient.  My car just had its 30th 
birthday, and I still get 28+ mpg.

|> Keep in mind that some collecter in the future is going to curse you eternally
|> if you do anything to structurally modify the car, so that the original, PROPER,
|> engine cannot be put back in.

Damn straight!

|> If you don't want to deal with the Lucas electricals and the crappiness of the
|> engine in general, perhaps you should just drive a Toyota or Nissan.

He almost has a point here.  Neglecting the part about the crappy engine, he's 
right on track about the electric.  Rewire the car correctly you've got one of 
most reliable cars around.

|> Sorry, just that it's a sore spot with me.  Having to undo what some hack has
|> done to a collectable car is a real pain in the ass.

Just remember, any car that's still on the road after 30+ years doesn't sound to
unreliable.  


Peter J. Woods      
--------------
The preceding text is purely imaginary.  Please rotate your terminal by 90 degrees
and reread the message.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Anti-theft immobilisers
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:33:47 +0000


> >Anyone have any comments on these things ? Reliability, cost,
> >quality of fitting work, ease of bypassing them, etc.
> >I'm particularly interested in UK makes, like VECTA & Foxguard.
> 
> I have experience of two alarm systems in the UK, Sonic and AutoBlock.

No !

VECTA is an immobiliser, it *isn't* an alarm. I'm specifically
looking for comments on dedicated immobilisers, and particularly the
VECTA.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: cold start probs with Injection
Keywords: bposch
Date: 19 Aug 92 01:40:44 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

Hi there,
I have rover 3500 v8 with bosch (labelled lucas) injection. It is hard to start
cold - I have to turn it over once, then pump throttle about 20-30 times with a
1 sec pause between (injectors get pulsed) to start it each morning. there is a 
thing called a thermotime switch which controls the cold start injector. it
starts at about 50 ohm, and at 0C is supposed to take 8-12 secs to warm up (via
12volts on a heater) during which time it drives the cold start injector. the
injector is ok - it sprays when I put 12v on it. the thermotime reads 50 ohm
cold. one of the leads has only about .12 V on it - this seems low to me, but
possibly correct. BTW , once it fires up cold, the idle is about normal - 1200
initially slowly coming down to 600 when half warm, with little or no stumbling
on acceleration, so once going the mixture seems to be rich enough.
Can anyone shed any light on this - am I up for a new black box, thermotime
switch or what? I have tried several spare (ie 2nd hand) thermotimes with no
change.
BTW, when car was newish, I complained of stumbles cold, and dealer said he
had a factory mod which (in his words) put a resistor somewhere to increase
the richness cold - problem went away. where would this have been ??? anywhere
I can get at??
thanks for any help offered.
jp