HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: seove@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (ERIC OVERTON)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: pumps in homemade wet-dry filters?
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:02:00 GMT
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I use a 801 powerhead also for my DIY wet/dry.
It works fine.

Eric
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4637 rec.aquaria:6576 sci.aquaria:1232
From: sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: [M][R] Questions about trace elements
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:51:25 GMT
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

Now that my live rock is in place and I am starting to populate my reef,
I have some questions about trace elements.

I've done some reading on the subject, but I value the personal experiences
of other reef owners.

I do frequent (10%/wk) H2O changes with Hawaiian Marine salt and add buffer
and calcium supplement. Does this provide the required replenishments that
are needed or do I need to add supplements?

What other trace?? elements have been found to stimulate growth and better
the overall reef environments for both hard and soft corals? ie. strotium, 
molbdenum, iodine, others?

			Which are necessary?
			What are some possible side effects?
			What doses are used?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

			Thanks,
                                Carl
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4568 rec.aquaria:6431
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Earthworms
Date: 13 Aug 92 05:06:55 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell) writes:
>What are your opinions on the subject.

Grow your own.  That way you will be certain that there are no pesticides
or other toxins in them.
-- 
"... i heard the droning / in the shrine
	     of the sea-monkey / palace of the brine ..." -- Pixies.
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell)
Subject: Earthworms 
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 20:30:29 GMT

  Just soliciting a discussion on feeding earth worms to your fish.

I have a few cichlids who love them. Every now and then I put some
in the fridge, in a container filled with grass. After a couple of
days thier system is all cleared out and the dirt cleaned off. A
quick rinse and it's feeding time. It is amazing how they fight
over them. Nothing like watching a couple of Jewels playing Tug-o-War
with a worm :-). Blah Blah Blah..... 

What are your opinions on the subject.

--
David M. Russell, Mechanical Eng. Dept.
Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676
(315) 268-9806 
russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: fvr@broom.bae.bellcore.com (Frank Ricciardi)
Subject: Re: Nitrates - How long for filter to work?
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 17:04:24 GMT


	Typically UGF's cause nitrates to go up and stay up. They are dirt 
magnets and unless you keep them clean, forget it. I had one and ripped it out
&* replaced it w/ a Wet Dry. 
	
	All you can do is large scale (40%-60%)  water changes until it goes 
down, but it won't stay there.


Frank



In article <16067@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu>, putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu) writes:
|> Well, I just found this group and am quite impressed with the amount
|> of know-how that seems to be in it. OK experts, here is an easy one
|> that I would appreciate:
|> 
|> I've got a 40 gallon marine tank with an UG filter (three lift tubes,
|> decent but not great air pump) and a fairly light fish population:
|> 4 Damsels (~1.5 inches each)
|> 1 Sailfin Tang (small one)
|> 1 Cleaner Wrasse (3.5 inches)
|> 1 Royal Gramma (2.5 inches)
|> 1 Small Hermit Crab
|> 
|> The tank has had fish in it for something like 45 days, and recently
|> the nitrates have been going up and up. Since I plan on getting
|> a larger marine tank eventually, I decided to get a Fluval 303 for this
|> tank, and later perhaps use it the a larger one. It's been running for
|> about two days now, and I have the following in the cartridges:
|> Bottom: 1/2 X-Nitrate (nitrate removing stuff (resin?))
|>           (Because of the nitrate levels)
|>         1/2 X-Phosphate (phosphate removing stuff (resin?)) 
|>           (Guy in store said phosphate contributed to rapid brown
|>            algae growth I am seeing)
|>         Each in separate nylon stocking
|> Center: About 1" of activated carbon
|>         In nylon stocking
|> Top: Fluval Foam Filter.
|> 
|> About how long does it take for the X-Nitrate to lower my nitrate
|> levels? It is up to around 120 (!) - the fish don't seem stressed,
|> but the hermit crab seems out of sorts, and I would like to get an
|> Anemone some day. I am running the filter at about 1/3 maximum flow
|> (the manual said slower flow -> better filtration). So, to get to
|> the point, does this setup seem 'right'? Should I turn up the filter?
|> Use less X-Nitrate/X-Phospate (the bottom cartridge is full between
|> the two of them)? Any and all recommendations, tips, etc., would be
|> really helpful, I've read the FAQ's, I've read the book by Moe &
|> a couple of others, so no RTFMs, unless I missed something!
|> Thanks!
|> 
|> | David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu            |
|> | Senior Undergraduate              | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine) |
|> | Computer Science and Psychology   |       Aiuto! Sono caduto e        |
|> | University of California at Davis |         non posso alzarmi!        |

-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
"If you got to it and didn't do it, may you never get to it, and do it again"


Frank V. Ricciardi

fvr@bae.bellcore.com

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Why not glass? (Was Re: Light Hoods)
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 04:43:09 GMT

Albrecht Jander (anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu) wrote:
: In article <1992Aug12.062214.9349@mr.med.ge.com> bednarek@bonfire (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
: >harlow@waikato.ac.nz writes:
: >: I've finally getting things worked out for my first tank. I've decided on a 35
: >: gallon tank with a Fluval 203 filter (BTW, out of curiousity, how much is this
: >: mail order from the States?). But the sticking point is lighting, or more
: >: particularly a light hood. I can't find a aesthetically pleasing one--the best
: >: I've seen are plastic manufactured by Marin--and since I'm not too fond of
: >: artificial wood grain it looks like my only option. So what does everybody
: >: use? Have you made your own? If so, how?
: >: 
: >: Thanks for your time,
: >: 
: >: Stephen
: >Steve
: >I built up several hoods for 30 and 55 gallon tanks using hardwoods (oak, and
: >walnut) for the frame and visable parts.  For the interior lighting I used
: >commercially available lighting fixtures available at the local hardware 
: >store.  Total costs were under $1.00 US per gallon tank size.  Also I strongly
: >advise a piece of plexiglass (not window glass) between the lights and the
:                                ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
: Why not?
 
I do not know how true it is but I had been told that glass has certain 
light filtering properties especially in the ultra violet end of the light
spectrum.  All my tanks have live plants and a minimum of daylight, therfore
I did not want to loose any more ultra violet light than was absolutly 
necessary.  

I am not an optics expert but maybe there are some out there that could
confirm or deny the "old wives tale" that prompted me to plexiglass.  I 
know construction would be much simpler with glass and would appreciate
some comments on this from experts.
: 
: Albrecht
: 
: >water.
: >Good Luck
: >Dennis
: >
: >--
: >
: >  
: >###############################################################################
: >### What were the Raven's last imortal words????????????????????????????????###
: >###############################################################################
: >   Please note that any comments are not my employeers or even mine at times.
: >
: 
: 
: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
:                         Peltier was a cool dude!!

--

  
###############################################################################
### What were the Raven's last imortal words????????????????????????????????###
###############################################################################
   Please note that any comments are not my employeers or even mine at times.
From: cole@csuvax1.csu.murdoch.edu.au (Peter Cole)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: HELP bloated guppies
Summary: HELP WANTED : what is causing guppies to bloat
Date: 23 Aug 92 07:06:36 GMT
Organization: Murdoch University

I have recently encountered a serious problem in my tank. The guppies,
M & F are dying from an unknown cause.

Symptoms : The M fish are wasting away before they pass away.

           The F fish are becoming bloated, there bodies appear to be filled
	   with a clear fluid. The 'chest; just below the mouth, has a distinct
           pinky-red appearance. These fish at first appear to be uneffected by
           the condition, however, they later go off their food and normally snuff
           it within about three-four weeks.

I have tried treating the tank with anti pathogen and fungal chemicals but to no avail.

Can somebody out there give me an idea to what I have living in the tank with my
fish, and if possible, a treatment to solve it.

p.s.  I had two common angel fish in the tank recently, both contracted what looked to
be a cotton type fungas. one died within 5 days the other lasted months but 
started getting holes in the base of its top fin (the body not the actual fin).
I put it down a few days ago as its condition was deteriating and it was obviously
distressed. Could this be related to the guppy condition ?

 many thanks peter cole. email to cole@csuvax1.csu.murdoch.edu.au
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4614 rec.aquaria:6517
From: montjoy@thor.ece.uc.edu (Robert Montjoy)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Water Quality and City Water
Keywords: ph, water
Date: 17 Aug 92 01:31:44 GMT
Organization: University of Cincinnati, ECE Dept


Hi..

Here is is my Tank setup:

	10-Gallon Tank
	15-Watt fluorescent light
	AquaClear 150
	UGF(which I am doing away with).
	No live plants.(Not yet anyhow).
	25-percent partial water changes done weekly.
	PH 7.2( down from a high of 7.6 just a couple of weeks ago).
	Water Hard
	Ammonia  - 0
	Nitrates -  do not have a test kit yet, going to get one though.
	Fish	3-Long Blue Fin Danios
		2-Long Fin Zebra Danios
		2-Golden Tetras
		  May get a couple more Tetras and/or a scavenger(Cory).
	

I have just a couple of questions:

1) What to do with a Hard alkaline City Water?

   PH 7.5(out of the tap). 
   Don't know the exact hardness but the water does leave
   the dreaded white crusts everywhere it evaporates. 

   The water is drawn from "deep artesian wells" , if that makes a
   difference.

   I am trying to setup a community tank. Soft water slightly acidic
   to neutral.


2) Should I use a mixture of distilled water and City water? The distilled
   water I have tested has a PH around 6 - 6.2. 

3) I would like to replace the decorative gravel with something more
   appropriate. Any suggestions?

4) Finally, I have a sick Danio(has been for 3-Weeks). It is constantly
   laying on the bottom. It scratches itself(head mostly). Also, it
   swims with its body arched. Also, it appears that it is not eating. 
   We have treated the tank with Coppersafe and Maracyn II, but it did 
   not work.

Thanks.

-- 
Rob Montjoy                   		- Rob.Montjoy@UC.Edu
Computer Engineer    	      		- montjoy@ucbeh.BITNET
University of Cincinnati      		- montjoy@babbage.ece.uc.edu
Electrical and Computer Engineering	- uunet!uceng!rmontjoy

-- Standards are illusions of many faces.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell, CAD Lab,268-3997,265-1000)
Subject: Re: EARTHWORMS
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 17:07:31 GMT

From article <2015.402.uupcb@matrix.sbs.com>, by janet.rawlins@matrix.sbs.com (Janet Rawlins) :
> -> I have a few cichlids who love them. Every now and then I put some in
> -> the fridge, in a container filled with grass. After a couple of days
> -> thier system is all cleared out and the dirt cleaned off. A quick
> -> rinse and it's feeding time. It is amazing how they fight
> 
> Gee, I hadn't thought about cleaning out their digestive tracts before
> feeding them to my oscars.  I just dig them up, rinse off a little of
> the dirt, chop them in half and toss them into the tank.  Then I sit
> back and watch the feeding frenzy.  :-)
>    Is there a good reason I don't know about, for purging the soil out
> of their systems?  I'm sure wild fish out in the pond don't get
> "purified" worms, so why should it matter for aquarium fish?
> 
> Janet
>                                        
    There might be better reasons but I do that just because its
cleaner. I figure there is no need to put unwanted dirt in my tank.
I doubt the fish care, but it helps keep my tank cleaner.
--
David M. Russell, Mechanical Eng. Dept.
Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676
(315) 268-9806 
russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Subject: Bubble and Elegans Coral Reproduction
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords:  coral reproduction
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 19 Aug 1992 09:51 EDT  

    This morning I noticed a small, .75 inch diameter whitish green mass on
the bottom of my 135 gallon reef tank.  Upon closer examination I was able to
identify it as a small bubble coral.  It has a small mouth  at its center and
it does not appear to have a calcareous base.  A long time ago a piece of a
larger bubble coral started to elongate past the end of the coral base.  After
a month or so the extended piece fell off and down into the rock work of the
tank.  That piece became attached to a piece of dead organ pipe coral and
continued to live for over a year.  Since then I had purchased a hard plate
like coral and placed it in such a manner that it blocked most to all of the
light reaching the small bubble coral.  About a month or so ago I noticed that
the small bubble coral was no longer in its original position.  Perhaps the
coral I noticed this morning was the piece that attached to the dead organ pipe
coral and decided that it should seek a better home or perhaps or perhaps, less
likely, one of the larger bubble corals in the tank released another baby.
(Surely I would have noticed it). 

    I wonder how much current there is in the natural environment of bubble
corals?  If there were a lot, surely this means of reproduction wouldn't work,
since the coral would not be able to attach to the substrate without being
blown away. 

    If I can find the baby bubble when I get home after work today, I will try
to isolate it in a plastic mesh structure with a small rock inside for it to
attach to.  I have used this method somewhat successfully for small pieces of
xenia. 

    On another note the second baby from one of my elegans coral which
propagated twice in the same manner is doing fine.  It has a calcareous base
which it formed while still attached to the parent.  The elegans has not
attached to the rock work yet.  The first baby fell down in the rock work never
to be heard from again. 


Greg Smith
From: frazier@maxwell (Greg Frazier)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Plant recommendations
Date: 13 Aug 92 16:51:32 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

denise@pprg.eece.unm.edu (Denise J. Richards) writes:
: I have a 55 gallon aquarium set up. Water is acidic, 6.2,  temp is at 
: 86 to 88 degrees fahrenheit. Filtration is Whisper 2 external power
: filter and and RUGF run by aqua clear 402 power heads (one of which
: died last night. I don't think it started up correctly after a water
: change.). Lighting is with Triton bulbs.  Tank occupants are:

I have tanks somewhat similar to this.  The only plants doing
well are water sprite and duckweed (both floating).  Crypts are
hanging on (Crypt. wendtii), and when I moved some giant hygro
in, it did miserably.  The java fern which did great in hard
water looks like it might be slowly dying, or it might be
slowly growing...

--


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: bmb@bluemoon.rn.com (Bryan Bankhead)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Micro Reefs
Date: 11 Aug 92 18:35:24 GMT
Organization: Blue Moon BBS ((614) 868-998[024])

I am interested in setting up a VERY tiny reef tank.  I would be VERY 
interested in hearing about anybody who has set up such a tank.  I 
consider Tiny to be 20 gal. or less. Include info about filters, lighting, 
livestock etc.  Who knows a
I may make a post if I get enough replies.

 This is from
     bmb@bluemoon.rn.com
who doesn't have his (or her) own obnoxious signature yet
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4628 rec.aquaria:6548
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Kalkwasser (Kent Marine)
Date: 17 Aug 92 20:12:54 GMT
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN


Does anyone who uses kalkwasser experience a ph fluctuation?  I just
bought some Kent kalkwasser to try and a friend warned me against it
because of ph fluctuation.  Opinions?
--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4642 rec.aquaria:6592
From: lancej@forestlawn.Eng.Sun.COM (Lance)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Ideas/help
Date: 14 Aug 1992 20:37:27 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: lancej@forestlawn.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: forestlawn


Early in my fishkeeping, I purchased feeder goldfish that managed to avoid
being dinner :-).  Now, I want to build an outdoor `pond' for them on my
deck.  What I envision is a three story waterfall affect with a large pool at
the bottom for the fish.  I have a magnum 350 to power the falls, and filter
the water.  What I need are construction tips/ideas.  Materials safe to use,
materials to steer away from etc.  Any ideas, tips or caveats would be greatly
appreciated.

particulars on the location is sunnyvale CA.  Fairly mild most of the time
with occasional bouts of serious heat and cold.  What precautions will I
need to take with temperature extremes and goldfish?  Chillers are out of the
question, but heaters are an option.

Any information cheerfully accepted.

thanks
Me
aka
Lance



Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4655 sci.aquaria:1244 rec.aquaria:6640
From: ahughes@arch386.hyperdesk.com (Arch Hughes)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: [M] Crushed Coral Stores Nitrates?
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:02:00 GMT
Reply-To: arch@hyperdesk.com
Organization: HyperDesk Corporation

In an e-mail conversation with Dave Carr [carr@acsu.buffalo.edu] he
mentioned that his past readings told him that crushed coral acts as a
buffer or bank for nitrates.  If, say, nitrates are running 20 ppm and
through better management the nitrates are reduced, Dave's theory
would mean that the crushed coral would begin releasing the nitrates
and keep the level high for some period after the original source was
gone.

Does anyone have any information on the correctness of the "crushed
coral banks nitrates" theory?

Thanks

-- 
o o|  Arch Hughes, HyperDesk Corp.        Phone   508-366-5050 x103
o o|  Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr.       Fax     508-898-3841
---+  Westboro, MA   01581                E-Mail  arch@hyperdesk.com
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Anemone Question #99
Date: 13 Aug 92 21:40:26 GMT
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department

You might want to lose the Heniochus.  Although it is just hearsay, I've heard
that butterflies are definitely not anemone-compatible.  Apparently, they
tend to pick at the anemone with they're long beaks, and gradually damage
the anemone beyond repair.   Just a thought.  

Remember that butterflies live on coral, and quite likely are not as susceptible
to coral/anemone venoms as other fish.

I've had a bubble anemone for about 8 months now.  I don't believe the
nitrates have ever been below 50ppm (tetra test kit).  It thrived at first,
then gradually lost most of its zooanthellae, but still looked and acted alive
and well.  Then I added a lot more light, and it is recovering most of its
color.  I don't believe that nitrates, alone, are as damaging to anemones
as has been reported here.

What are the dying symptoms of your anemone?


-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: timv@apollo.HP.COM ()
Subject: Survey Results
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 16:50:56 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Chelmsford, MA


I seem to have stopped getting survey mail, so I am posting the results.
One interesting note is that a very small percentage of fish people's
spouses are in Catagory 1 (hates it). I assume this is because if a 
potential fish person mentions starting, they are discouraged, or they
started and were nagged into giving it up. 

39 people resonded

7% were females

Catagories

1. 3% (hates it)
2. 18% (tolerates it)
3. 54% (mildly interested)
4. 28% (another fish person)

The other suprise was the large number of spouses in cat. 4, you lucky
folks!

Tim Vandawalker
HP Chelmsford
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:4631 rec.aquaria:6561
From: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Gary R Pimm)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: pumps in homemade wet-dry filters?
Date: 18 Aug 92 04:59:14 GMT
Reply-To: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Aug15.153028.1@pomona.claremont.edu> efang@pomona.claremont.edu writes:
>
>I've a question for those who have built a wet dry without using a standard
>water pump; just powerheads or something like that...
>
>What kind of pump did you use?
>How well does it work? How much impaired is it in its function?
>What would you reccommend?
>
>Thanks, Eric Fang

On the wet dry that is on my wifes central american cichild tank we are 
using a maxijet 1000. It seems to work fine. The maxijet lifts the water 4'
and delivers 95 gallons per hour. 

The practical limit for the maxijet 1000 is right around 4'. Any more than
this and they start to buzz. Mine starts buzzing when the sump is low. 

At one point we wanted more flow so we tried runing two pumps side by side.
The draw back was that both pumps would buzz. What was hapening was both 
pumps saw a little more than 4' head. Next we tried running the pumps in
series (output of the first pump conected to the input of the second pump.
With this setup we got almost double the flow (180gph) and the buzzing
problem went away. With the pumps in series each pump efectivly sees 1/2
the total head.

The maxijets that we are using have all been reliable.
Curently we have 3. One in the wet dry, one in a custom canister system
and one as the circulator pump in our hot tub. Really. The pump died in the 
hot tub and I needed a quick fix. Moves just enough water to keep it hot.

At just $15.00 I think the maxijet 1000 is a good deal.

gary 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria