HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sala8864@hgc.edu (gustavo salas)
Subject: Re: Cambridge.
Organization: The Hartford Graduate Center
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 03:55:48 GMT

In article <14AUG92.16134336.0033@vmxa.polymtl.ca> DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca (DH02000) writes:
>In article <1992Aug13.211408.24283@en.ecn.purdue.edu> cmcdowel@en.ecn.purdue.edu (Charles E. McDowell) writes:
>>I am posting this message as a warning to anyone who is considering ordering
>>any photo supplies through a place called Cambridge Camera in New York.
>>Without going into detail, these guys are extreme sleazballs.  Their ads appear
>
>How appropriately said!  I must describe my experience too.  I wanted
>I wanted to buy a Nikon F4s and Nikkor lenses, SB-24, filters, etc.
>I looked thru Pop. Photo and Cambridge caught my attentionb'cos their
>ad was the first and big (so I assumed it was a big store) and they
>actually had letters from 2 or 3 "happy" customers (oh yeah!).  And
>their prices seemed to be the lowest. So I called them up.  Actually
>I had called 2 or 3 other places but no one had everything in stock, but
>these guys had everything in stock and promised to ship it out
>in 8-9 days!  I must add here that the guys weren't anywhere near
>polite.  They had a distinct "East-European" accent and so I reasoned
			       =============

As a matter of fact, they are Jewish(You know, the Jewish people in NYC
wearing this small, round hat(?)). No offense against Jewish people.

>The same afternoon, I placed my order with B+H.  I got everything

Yes, that is the place I purchase eqipments for my cameras myself, too.
Their price is not that great or anything, at least they are honest and
very fast!!!!
From: alexm@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu (Alex Milshteyn)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: ++> CLEANING A LENS/FILTER - HOW ?   <++
Date: 16 Aug 92 16:22:19 GMT
Organization: Mass General Hospital NMR Imaging Center


Hello, honorable netters.
The subject says it all:

I had to take some shots on the water.  After that (the prints came out great, BTW) I have some circulear spots on my UV filter.  Probably just water.  What is
the most efficient and safe way to clean it (the filter), both/ether commercial
and/or home remedies?.

Am I glad I used a filter! in the worst case scenario it is only $14.00 vs
$350.00.

Respectfully,
AlexM
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks)
Subject: Re: B+W Fiber vs. RC paper
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 15:05:47 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <223@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
>sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks) writes:
>:
>: Some claim that FB paper is more archival than RC, but from what I have
>: read this is no longer true in general.
>
>Maybe I have been out of print making for too long -- are they saying a
>RC print lasts over 100 years, like a fiber-based one does?  Last I was
>aware (and that was over 10 years ago) RC prints had a life expectancy of
>about 10 years.  Have they improved that much?

Well I have plenty of 10 year old RC prints that disprove the 10 year
life expectancy.  I also have some from high school that are almost 20
years old that show no degradation as far as I can see.  I don't know
what current life expectancy is, but my information is mostly from an
article in Camera and Darkroom by A. Blaker within the last year.  I
think he stated that life expectancy is the same for RC and FB papers.
He claimed his information was from Kodak and other manufacturers and
maybe some independent researchers.  I'll try to remember to look up the
article for more details.

John Sparks
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Subject: Re: overexposed prints - camara or processing???
Originator: asanders@sparta
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 22:30:28 GMT

| If you really want to see how your camera performs, put some 
| slide film in it.
			-Gary Snow

Something you can do with your color negs, since you have them,
is to ask a pro lab to make a color contact sheet. Chances are
that your negs are well exposed, but it's almost impossible to
tell what's going on from looking at cheap machine prints.

						-Alan


From: daved@hplsla.hp.com (Dave Dintenfass)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:54:15 GMT
Subject: Re: Lens lube wanted
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

I read one of Romney's books about ten years back and it had
quite a few helpful hints.  He recommended "Gunslick" (sold
at sporting goods stores) for lubricating the focusing helix
in lenses.  I managed to find a small tube of it and it works very 
well for this application.  As you've discovered, standard grease
is too stiff.  "Gunslick" is a thin, dark grease that I suspect
contains graphite.

The synthetic watch oil is expensive but well worth it.  It is the
*only* type of oil you should ever use in shutters.  I've used
it for ten years now and I haven't gone through a bottle yet
(you only use just a trace of it so it lasts loooooong time).

If you live near a large metropolitan area, you can go to a 
clock/watch supply house and find the same oil but it's probably
not much cheaper there.

Good luck in your camera repair.  If you stick to the larger
cameras and shutters, camera repair is surprisingly easy (but
it does take a steady hand and some patience).

Have fun. 

Dave Dintenfass
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks)
Subject: Re: B+W Fiber vs. RC paper
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:57:48 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Aug12.180510.14541@javelin.sim.es.com> rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs) writes:
>Has anyone seen any published accelerated aging tests which compare RC and
>FB papers?  I personally have seen color film and paper age and fade, but
>I have never seen a problem with a properly processed B&W RC print.  
>Granted, there are differences in the appearance of RC and FB papers, and
>one is free to choose on that basis.  At the risk of starting a religious
>flame-war, I think that the "non-archival-ness" of RC paper is mostly
>prejudice and folklore.  Differing opinions are welcome.

Well I looked up my reference again last night.  It is from the Nov.  91
issue of Camera and Darkroom.  The author refers to a paper published in
the Journal of Applied Photographic Engineering "To RC or Not to RC" by
Timothy Parsons of Kodak Summer 79.  This paper published the results of
simulated 100 year aging tests of RC and FB papers.  The article I read
didn't quote the earlier article but stated that in Parsons tests RC papers
actually came off better than FB papers throughout the testing (both light
and dark tests).  In particulary, after simulated 100 years the FB papers
showed some cracking of the emulsion probably due to repeated swelling and 
shrinking of the underlying paper from humidity changes.  The RC papers
did not show any cracking of the emulsion or base since the plastic coating
shields the paper base from humidity changes.

The only claim against RC papers that the Camera and Darkroom article said
had any provable basis was yellowing in some cases with developer incorporated
RC papers.  The author sent some of these samples to Ilford (it was on an
earlier version of Multigrade II or III that was developer incorporated).
Ilford responded that the yellowing was due to migration of dry developer
through the polyethelene coating that later yellowed and could not be
removed by washing or bleaching due to the waterproof polyethelene.  The
yellow color showed more through the back of the print than through the 
front.  Kodak claims to have come up with something to solve this problem,
but the author was still skeptical (and why worry since non-developer 
incorporated RC papers are widely available and work just as good if not
better when tray developing anyway).

With non-developer incorporated RC papers, all data that the author
could find indicated that RC papers have comparable if not longer life 
expectancies than FB papers.

John Sparks
From: sjm1@eng.cam.ac.uk (Stephen Mounsey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Airshows
Date: 13 Aug 92 09:30:38 GMT
Organization: cam.eng

mcfearin@convex.com (Lee Mcfearin) writes:

>Jay Lorenzana <U40348@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:

>>Dear Experts,
>I'm not an Expert, but here goes anyways.

>>I just got my pictures (airshow) back and I'm a bit dissapointed.  I
>>thought I new what I was doing but...

>>Turns out the planes were still underexposed and blurred.  I knew
>>I was taking a chance at 1/500 and I thought my panning improved--mistake.
>The polarizer could have cut out light from the planes since reflections
>from metallic surfaces tend to be polarized.  Your polarizer may have
>added to the underexposure.

Nope. Reflections from metallic surfaces are _not_ polarized. Reflections
from non-metallic surfaces are, the extent depending on the reflection
angle (maximum is at the "Brewster angle"). Hence why a polarizer is great
for improving the clarity of ponds and rivers....

                          -Stephen.
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Processor recommendation needed
Date: 12 Aug 92 23:51:25 GMT
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA


In article <1992Aug12.194809.29303@pixel.kodak.com>, berry@ssd.kodak.com
(Mike Berry) writes:

|> and is looking for a print processor.  He has narrowed the choice down
|> to a Jobo CP31  and Durst Printo mudular system.   Does anybody
|> have any info on these two processors and recommendations on which
|> one would be a good buy???   [...]

I don't know much about the CP31, but I have a Printo.  It works very
well, it's quiet, and I like it.  One of the nice thing about it, in my
opinion, is that it's modular.  That means that not only do you get to
choose how many baths there are, but you can store it in parts, rather
than trying to find space for a monster.

One of the problems with it is that the gears are plastic, and the exit
rollers are very soft rubber and tend to stick together as they dry
after use.  If you start the machine without loosening them, the torque
of the motor can break a tooth of one of the gears.  The solution is to
store the machine with something non-sticky between the exit rollers.
If they do get stuck, you can usually just grab them and twist, and
they'll break loose.  The internal rollers are harder rubber, and they
don't have this problem.  (I have no first-hand knowledge of other
machines, but I wouldn't be surprised if the CP31 or other RT machines
have similar problems.)

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: large format, zone system, hat hair and other silliness
Date: 19 Aug 92 22:34:15 GMT
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

In article <1992Aug19.151926.26298@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com>, kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com (Ken J. McFadden) writes:
|>Actually, 1 exposure rolls may make some of the fans of large format and the
|>zone system jealous.  Using the single exposure rolls would be more convenient
|>than those nasty large format film holders with the ability to push or pull
|>process individual frames.  And you have the added benefit that 35mm doesn't
|>promote hat hair.  8^)
Well...to be truely equal, we'd have to be able to glue two of the "35mm sheet
film retainers" back to back (or top to bottom).  And 35mm is not always a
"safe bet" for those of us with more pronounced probosci, there is the
embarrassment of "Camera Nose".  This is the bain of 35mm users who are forced
to press their nose against the back of the camera in order to use a viewfinder
with more readouts than a F-14 cockpit.  In addition there is the "odd" way
things look in a 35mm slr viewfinder: erect and non-reversed!  How can one
possible hope to use their more creative right brain with that kind of view? 
I'll take hat hair any day!
;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)} ;'{)}
jimf
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: media permanence (was Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes)
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:27:34 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <1992Aug19.155539.17331@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.180346.10845@talon.ucs.orst.edu> monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson) writes:
>>
>>Of course, the fine B&W prints originally being discussed can sit
>>indefinitely, unattended, without need for investment in new equipment,
>>and still be ready for immediate viewing anytime in the future.
>
>Hold it, are you trying to tell me that a B&W PRINT can out live its digital
>counter-part?  I don't think so.

An archivally processed B&W print ought to be good for a few centuries.
That may or may not be true of a Photo-CD. You pays your money and you takes
your chances.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bbaskett@post.RoyalRoads.ca (Bill Baskett)
Subject: Re: Racial remarks (was: Cambridge)
Organization: Royal Roads Military College, Victoria, B.C.
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:41:23 GMT


In article <1992Aug18.161110.15502@fig.citib.com>, glp@fig.citib.com (Greg Parkinson) writes:
|> 
|> In article <1992Aug17.210235.16930@adobe.com>, usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) writes:
|> |> | As a matter of fact, they are Jewish...
|> |> 
|> |> 		-Gustavo Salas
|> |> 
|> |> There are scum-bags as well as honorable people in every culture.
|> |> To deliberately point out the nationality or religion of a
|> |> particular scum-bag is, in my opinion, racially motivated and
|> |> should have no place in civilized discussion.
|> 
|> I'd like to assume that this comment was in response to
|> someone mentioning the "eastern european" accent.
|> 
|> Almost *all* the photo stores in NYC are owned and
|> run by Jews, often Hassidim.  I think there is a cultural
|> element in what some people perceive as rudeness, but
|> it's important to point out that all the people who have
|> waited on me at B&H have been Hassidim and they have been
|> helpful and friendly.
|> -- 
|> Greg Parkinson                  Phone: 212-657-7814  Fax: 212-825-8607
|> Citibank,111 Wall Street        E-Mail: glp@fig.citib.com
|> New York, New York  10043
|> The opinions expressed are my own and not those of the big 'ol bank.

Would it be asking too much for this discussion to be taken into another
group or off-line before it becomes an electronic fist-fight?  In it's 
current context it has very little to do with rec.photo. 

My apologies, in advance, to the group if this request makes matters worse.
-- 
Bill Baskett, Network Manager       vx: 604 363-4635 fx: 604 363-4513
Royal Roads Military College        em: BBaskett@post.RoyalRoads.ca
Victoria, B.C.                      "this space for hire"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yen@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Tony Yen)
Subject: Canon New F-1, how long will Canon still support?
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 21:33:59 GMT

I recently bought a Canon New F-1 demo at a local camera show. The reason
I bought it: it just looks a lot more solid than the new EOS bodies and 
it serves all my needs except lacking mirror lock-up. My question is:
how long will Canon still make this camera and its associated FD lenses?

-Tony Yen
From: elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: E-6 processing, various labs
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:05:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

I notice that some labs charge more to develop E-6 than others.  is there a 
reason for this?  one hour photo drive up charges $3 while a local pro lab
charges $7.50.  what are some of the things I should watch out for when using
a lower cost lab, in terms of observing the quality of the processed slides?

eugene
From: hegarty@caradhras.bernina.ethz.ch (Christopher Hegarty)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo contest: $100 prize
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:16:36 GMT
Organization: /usr/err/psim/hegarty/.organization



I want to leave a camera in my car so that if I am involved in a car
accident I can take some photos of the accident scene, which may be
helpful if any legal problems arise.

One problem is that inside my car tends to get very hot in
summer; I'm concerned about film lifetime.  Can anyone tell me 
how often I might need to replace the film, or recommend film with a
relatively long lifetime under these conditions?

Thanks

Chris Hegarty (hegarty@iis.ethz.ch)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Considering Canon EOS Elan - solicit comments
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 17:25:16 GMT

In article <1qf-5t-@engin.umich.edu>, brucew@tiber.engin.umich.edu (Bruce Hugh Wilson) writes:
...
> A quick thought, the lens she showed, a Canon 35-80mm F4-5.6 doesn't seem
> to flexible - F5.6 is not much of a depth-of-field.  Is there better stuff
> out there, or are most AF lenses limited in terms of small f-stops, and I'd
> perhaps be better of sticking w/manual focus?

Any EF lens will do. All the way up to a 50mm f1 or a 600mm f4 or if you insist
on zooms, the 28-80 f2.8-4 L. Just make sure you are sitting down when they tell
you the price!! The 35-80 is a real bottom line cheepie. You would be lots
better off with the good old 50mm f1.8. If you can, get the older one with
the focus scale, not the II. The 35-135 USM is another good all rounder is you
insist on a zoom.

~Paul
From: tomrice@netcom.com (Tom R. Rice)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Leitz Valoy - Value?
Date: 22 Aug 92 00:38:28 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

I certainly wouldn't trash it.  If you can't use it or find
some deserving photog who can, then you should look for a 
collector of Leica stuff.  Out here in Calif., they have pretty 
well snapped up all the old Leica screw-mount stuff, making it
hard on those of us who still take pix with old cameras!

I'd bet that you can get some bucks for it if you look around.

trr
-- 
"Start off every day with a smile and get it over with."  --W.C.Fields
Tom R. Rice   WB6BYH                   Holler Observatory - 
tomrice@netcom.com                     Longitude:  121 d  30 m  20 s W 
CIS: 71160,1122                        Latitude:    37 d  25 m  10 s N
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Document copying
Date: 23 Aug 92 04:32:24 GMT
Organization: Curtin University of Technology

In article <1992Aug22.040444.8072@news.columbia.edu>, gmw1@cunixa.cc.columbia.edu (Gabe M Wiener) writes:
> G'day folks.  Can anyone make some recommendations on methodology for
> document copying?
> 
This will still be a problem photographing them.
> There are a number of turn-of-the-century volumes of which I need access
> to excerpts.  Unfortunately they're way too fragile to press down onto a
> xerox machine.  The paper is aging rapidly and isn't likely to last too
> much longer.
> 
You should ring around and talk to profesional paper conservators fast.
Also a list of what is involved, as you may have unique items in there.

> I figured that since the archive in which these documents are stored is
> *way* short of funds and has no money to get these things filmed, I'd
> take some photographs of the stuff I need, and as much else as I can,
> if only so that these manuals will be available in some form in the years
> to come.
See if the people involved can spring for film ect, or they may be able to
get it for you at a discount.

> 
> Now for the question....what's the best way of doing this?  I've got
> 35mm and 6x7 equipment, but have never done any document copying.  Is
> there a recommended film for this purpose?  (We're talking plain text,
> and maybe some line-art illustrations...no color)   And after the stuff
> is on film, is there a recommended *paper* for printing document copies?
> 
> I remember hearing about "document copying films" but have never used
> them.  Are there such things?  What sort of lighting is best?  
> I assume that the copy-stand approach would be essential.  Any advice on
> *placing* the material on the stand so that a) the best lighting can be
> achieved, and b) as little strain as possible is done to the binding?
> 
> Any help in this area would be *most* appreciated....
> 

Get and read Kodak's "Copying and Duplicating in B&W and Color" M-1. Also
their book on restoring and conservation. Them remember the golden rule

If in doubt, do NOTHING. Also remember, that excerpts are not a lot of use.
A complete copy on film is FAR more valuable.

~Paul
From: tls@panix.com (Thor Lancelot Simon)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: media permanence (was Re: photo-developing, specifically nudes)
Date: 20 Aug 92 07:56:05 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <1992Aug19.213832.25543@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>In article <1992Aug19.182734.871@craycos.com> sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug19.155539.17331@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>>>
>>>Hold it, are you trying to tell me that a B&W PRINT can out live its digital
>>>counter-part?  I don't think so.
>>
>>An archivally processed B&W print ought to be good for a few centuries.
>>That may or may not be true of a Photo-CD. You pays your money and you takes
>>your chances.
>
>What kind of process is that, "archivally processed B&W print", and what does
>it do to help an image retain its ORIGINAL likeness?

This is really getting silly.  Just do a completely ordinary B&W print on
fiber base paper, process as normal, tone slightly in selenium toner if you
wish (this is not essential), use fixer remover (hypo-clear or various other
brand names), and be sure to wash well.  If you use FB paper, and fixer remover,
the odds are that your B&W prints are already "archivally processed".  It's not
exactly rocket science!  ORIGINAL likeness?  What are you getting at here?  Am
I to assume that in 300 years, my portrait work will all suddenly turn into
fashion layouts?

-- 
Thor Lancelot Simon	 tls@panix.COM
  "Oh, you have wounded me!  I have very few prejudices, actually.  The
biggest problem is that I am intolerant of fools.  That is why I have
such a low tolerance level for Libertarians."  -- Jim McMaster
Newsgroups: rec.photo