HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd)
Subject: Re: Wheel Failure/Crash/Warranty Question
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 02:45:39 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.231957.5034@u.washington.edu> mattf@cac.washington.edu (Matthew Freedman) writes:
>This weekend I was riding down a short drop (maybe 8 to 10 feet), a
>somewhat steep and rocky descent, but not at all difficult or tricky,
>at moderate speed, when suddenly I was flying over the handlebars.
>After taking a hard fall on my elbow, I saw that my front wheel was
>potato chipped. Since I didn't feel any loss of control before I was
>in the air, I am assuming that what happened was that the wheel
>failed, got caught in the brakes, and stopped, sending me over the
>top. 
>
>This is a new (about a month) 92 Cannondale Delta V 1500 (XT
>components, front-shock). I can't remember exactly what the rim is. My
>question is, is this "acceptable" behavior for a wheel? I.e. do I have
>a reasonable case for getting the wheel rebuilt under the warranty? Or
>is it, "your crash, your fault". I am pretty sure that I only crashed
>because the rim failed, and I don't think I was subjecting it to
>unreasonable stress, especially since it had a suspension to soak up
>impacts. Could the wheel have been built badly? If so, is there any
>way to tell?
>
>I haven't gone into the bike shop yet.
>
>	-- Matt
>
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
>= Matthew M. Freedman                                                 =
>= U. of Washington Information Systems       mattf@cac.washington.edu =
>= 4545 15th Ave. NE; 4th Floor               (206) 543-5593           =
>= Seattle, WA  98105                                                  =
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

I think you're outta luck.  What probably happened is you gave the wheel a
side load, which will screw ya fast since they're not at all strong in that
respect.  Funny, I chipped a wheel at the Washington State MTB Championships
a couple of months ago... only about an hour from Seattle.  Is it something 
about that area that eats front wheels?

Bill
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Chargers for HBL's
Date: 17 Nov 92 20:07:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

Hello!
	I am in the process of building a home-brew lighting system (HBL), and
I have everything that I need except the charger.  I have considered the option
of building my own, but I'm not much of an E.E. so I don't want to try it.
Can anybody suggest a cheap battery charger?  My battery is a 12 volt, 3 amp-
hour battery.  I'd like to stay around or under $20.  Thanks!
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!           			   "Why am I so late?  It took me 
					    25 minutes to decide which bike
					    to ride!" 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dkw@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (David Wittenberg)
Subject: Re: Human Powered Vehicles
Keywords: human power, hpv
Organization: Brandeis University Computer Science
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 18:30:10 GMT

In article <1ecpmnINNgho@gambier.rick.cs.ubc.ca>, t4d192@rick.cs.ubc.ca (Bruce Paul Dow) writes:
|> I understand that there is a mailng list for those interested in human powered 
|> vehicles. I would be very grateful if someone would email me on how to 
|> subscribe to this list.
|> 

requests to hpv-request@sonoma.edu
messages to hpv@sonoma.edu

It sometimes takes a few days to get added to the list.

--David Wittenberg
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: dmoore@hardy.u.washington.edu (David Moore)
Subject: Re: How to secure pump to frame?
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 00:48:07 GMT


In article <Bxw0GK.G2z@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
> My borthers new Colango (The $1200 one with Dura-Ace STI) has no pump peg.
> How do people secure pumps to their road bikes so they don't rattle?  I assumed
> people use those velcro thingies but wanted other ides since it seems like
> they would rattle.
> -Terry
> 

I'm afraid I just don't follow all of this stuff about pump pegs and straps,
though there have been some rather clever ideas mentioned.  I haven't used
a pump peg, or any other attachment, for years.  There is such a thing as
a Silca frame-fit pump isn't there?  Mine has never rattled or fallen off
by itself.  It also happens to be a fine pump, which can be fitted with a 
campy steel or plastic head if you need the logo.

David Moore
dmoore@u.washington.edu
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: CFV: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 17 Nov 92 10:14:41 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

This is a Call For Votes (CFV) on creation of the unmoderated newsgroup
rec.crafts.metalworking.  The charter is reproduced below.

To vote FOR the creation of this new newsgroup, send mail to
metalyes@corral.uwyo.edu.  To vote AGAINST the creation of this group,
send mail to metalno@corral.uwyo.edu.  Please send votes *only* to one
of these two addresses, otherwise it will not count.  Do not post your
vote, or send it to my personal mailbox.  The content of the e-mail
ballot is not important, just the address it is sent to.

The voting period will last until 23:59:59 MST, 14-DEC-1992.  Votes
*received* after that date cannot be counted.

Charter
-------

Proposed Charter -- REC.CRAFTS.METALWORKING

The USENET newsgroup, rec.crafts.metalworking, is a newsgroup which discusses
various aspects of working with metal, such as (but not limited to):

  machining, as on a lathe, milling machine, grinder, etc.;
  numerical control of such machines;
  welding, whether by gas, arc, mig, tig, thermite, or other methods;
  Metal joining, whether welding, brazing, soldering, riveting,
    screwing, folding, etc.  (this section was added during the discussion)
  casting various metals by various methods;
  hardening/tempering various metals;
  blacksmithing/forging;
  spinning and hammer work;
  sheet metal work;
  jewelry-making;
  purchasing and/or reconditioning metalworking tools and machinery;
  interesting projects;
  books on metal technologies and history;

Example areas of interest:

  knife/sword making;
  automotive repair;
  steam engine (model/scale, though full-sized discussions are welcome!);
  art work, such as bronze castings and sculptures;
  gunsmithing;
  toolmaking, such as for woodworking, further metalworking, etc.;

While the bulk of the discussion will probably be directed towards
small-scale "home" shops, industrial/production discussions are also
quite welcome.
-- 
Jim Kirkpatrick
jimkirk@corral.uwyo.edu
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23655 rec.bicycles.soc:1009
From: plutchak@pilsner.geo.brown.edu (Joel Plutchak)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.soc
Subject: Re: Peds on Boston Bike Path (was: Motorcyclist Hits Bicyclist...)
Date: 16 Nov 1992 16:01:28 GMT
Organization: Brown University Planetary Geology
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: pilsner.geo.brown.edu

In article <Jym.15Nov1992.0035@naughty-peahen> Jym Dyer <jym@mica.berkeley.edu> writes:
>=o= On mixed use paths, the proper behavior of pedestrians
>is to keep to the right, single file, keeping an eye out for
>others with faster means of transportation, and stepping off
>of the path when those others come by.

   On the East Bay bike path here in RI, signs tell pedestrians
to walk on the left, facing bike traffic.  I would prefer them
to do it that way (if they feel they have to walk on the bike
path at all), since it makes it easier for them to see me in
order to step off the path.  Of course, they don't, so I just
avoid the "bike" path entirely.
--
Joel Plutchak, Research Programmer/Analyst
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23673 rec.bicycles.soc:1072
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.soc
Subject: Re: A win for the ticketing movement
Date: 24 Nov 92 17:02:50 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

In article <2931625091.0.p00004@psilink.com>, p00004@psilink.com (Michael Smith) writes:
>>DATE:   23 Nov 92 05:33:42 GMT
>>FROM:   Kentaro Nakamichi <k3amichi@student.business.uwo.ca>
>>
>>We had a major bike accident outside the city of London, Ontario 2 
>>weekends ago which involved an inattentive driver running through 13 
>>guys, killing 1 and sending 6 to the hospital.  The police have now 
>>decided that they will charge the cyclists for riding two abreast
> [....]
>>The driver, who claims that he never 
>>saw any of the 20 cyclists because he was looking at a barn to the side 
>>of the road will not be charged at all.

The F-----G BASTARDS!  Geez this stuff pisses me off.  I still feel guilty
when I have to take a car instead of ride somewhere.

Why don't we ticket the farmer for placing his barn in a distracting place?

We have a political party here called the McGillicuddy Serious Party,  with
several hundred members who all stand for parliament and generally have a
high profile with their television friendly antics.

Their policy is generally along the lines of doing away with technology
and reverting the country back to feudalism and pasturalism.  Last election
they covered all the tricky problems like the ozone hole,  local unemployment,
road deaths and even the great helmet debate by advocating a complete ban on
cars. Sounds good to me.

Jonathan.

Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23661 rec.juggling:2900
From: david_buseck@qm.sri.com (David Buseck)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.juggling
Subject: buying a unicycle
Date: 18 Nov 92 17:01:59 GMT
Organization: SRI

I need to get a new unicycle after the pedal on my old one sheared off. I
would like to get information about good or bad brands, or any other one-
wheeled wisdom you can share.  Thanks.

David Buseck (415) 859-4714
Xref: sparky rec.auto:7 dc.forsale:2849
From: craigs@pyrdc.UUCP (Craig Shipley)
Newsgroups: rec.auto,dc.forsale
Subject: Magazines for sale
Keywords: Hot Rod Car Craft
Date: 22 Nov 92 15:30:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp. Annapolis Junction, MD

Hello,

  Sorry (to those of you on rec.auto) if this is not the proper place
to post this, but...

  I am selling off my old collection of automotive magazines. They consist
of various hot-rodding magazines from about 1974 until about 1989. The 
collection is probably not complete (I think I let my subscription lapse
a couple of times) but is reasonably so. Include is HOT ROD, CAR CRAFT
POPULAR HOT RODDING and (maybe) ROD & CUSTOM. There are several other
auto-related magazines include in the mix, titles unknown.

 I am not looking to make a fortune off of this sale. I just don't want
these magazines to hit the trash heap. Any reasonable offer will be 
considered. You pick 'em up or pay for shipping. Or something can be worked
out. Thanks!



Regards,

Craig Shipley

      -m------- Craig Shipley	aka: craigs@pyrdc.va.pyramid.com
    ---mmm----- Pyramid Technology Corporation 
  -----mmmmm--- 10010 Junction Dr. Suite 112
-------mmmmmmm- Annapolis Junction, MD 20701   	 (301) 725-5705

  Opinions expressed here, if any, are my own and not Pyramid's.

-- 

Regards,

Craig Shipley

      -m------- Craig Shipley	aka: craigs@pyrdc.va.pyramid.com
    ---mmm----- Pyramid Technology Corporation 
  -----mmmmm--- 10010 Junction Dr. Suite 112
-------mmmmmmm- Annapolis Junction, MD 20701   	 (301) 725-5705

  Opinions expressed here, if any, are my own and not Pyramid's.

Newsgroups: rec.auto,rec.autos
From: cs911390@ariel.yorku.ca (MARCO S MARINI)
Subject: for sale
Originator: cs911390@g08.ariel.yorku.ca
Organization: York University, Toronto, Canada
Distribution: york
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 16:05:47 GMT


For Sale: 1990 VW CORRADO, black, black leather int., heated seats, ABS,
          BBS RF rims, new tires, Sony pull out, 9 speakers (I added two
          Pioneer 6x9's), Clifford alarm with remote door locks, 72,500kms,
          extended warranty. Hate to part with but MUST SELL! Car is in
          mint condition. Asking $16,900.
          If interested reply by e-mail or call (416)660-3850 evenings.


For Sale: 1972 Alfa Romeo Spyder, completely restored 1 year ago. Has a
          very solid 1750cc engine with dual Weber carbs, new work includes:
          red paint, black custom top, black leather interior, black carpeting,
          Pirelli P-500's , original Alfa aluminum rims, and many engine parts.
          All bills.
          A real eye-catcher!           
          Hate to part with but MUST SELL! Asking $7,900.
          If interested reply by e-mail or call (416)660-3850 evenings.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: What is the advantage of "worm drive"?  (was Re: Circular Saw recom)
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 20:39:23 GMT

>>>>> On 13 Nov 92 17:20:49 GMT, aqn@tivoli.UUCP (Andy Nguyen) said:

Andy> I know what a worm drive is, but what is a worm drive on a circular saw?
Andy> What are its advantages?  Does it only save pushing the saw by hand?

Other people have answered "what", let me address advantages.  I am
referrfing to the "Skil Professional Worm Drive Saw" obtainable in
discount hardware/lumber stores for about $130.  Until a professional
fencing company came to work at my house, I had only used the standard
circular saw.  When I went to use his wormdrive (I was working on the
project as semi-skilled laborer and job boss) I had previously thought
it would take gorilla arms to use it, however, the weight of the saw
was on the wood being cut.  With respect to being able to follow a
drawn line, it is FAR superior to a circular saw. For a right hander,
the motor is not between you and the line, the line is visible closest
to you.  On the Skil (the Makita is a little different), there are two
notches, rather than just scored lines, which represent the kerf
edges.  These V notches are very easy to keep the line centered on.
Also, the wormdrive has a bit more horsepower, making the cutting
easier in general.  I was really impressed by the additional amount of
control the handle placement and V notch imparted.  Even though I have
a perfectly good circular saw, I am going to replace it with a
wormdrive.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
From: weissborn@JAS.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: question about hide-glue
Date: 19 Nov 92 14:27:56 GMT
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas

I would like to use hide-glue in more of my veneering but I am
a little confused as to whether I have to throw-away the glue
when I am done or if I can store it for use at a later date.

I don't do a lot of veneering(mostly repairs/replacements) so
it could get very expensive if I have to keep tossing the stuff.

thanks in advance
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Date: 18 Nov 92 21:34:28 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems

I'm sure you've seen the ones that fit into the miter slot,  I feel they work 
better as a tight strong featherboard.   Never used the holddown, seems kind of
cheesy to me, better spend the money on a "real" fence mounted type.  
   But this type of featherboard is only good if there is at least an inch or two
between the board side and the miter slot.   The magnetic ones have a real advantage 
here since they can be put anywhere on the table (almost).   Usually if i have to
rip a wide board, i allow some extra and make a second very accurate cut to clean up
the edges,  so my featherboards (one leading, other trailing) are always very close to the blades.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Mark W. Dubin
Subject: Antiqueing Brass
Originator: dubin@spot.Colorado.EDU
Keywords: brass
Reply-To: dubin@spot.colorado.edu
Organization: Univ. of Colorado-Boulder
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:38:40 GMT


Someone recently asked how to make new brass look old.  Constantine's,
the large woodworker store in NYC lists a small bottle of liquid stuff
made just for this purpose.  And, it's not expensive.  They are mail
order.

--the ol' professor
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scotto@ipars.cts.com (Scott O'Connell)
Subject: 115-piece drill set
Organization: Spectrum Data Services - Carlsbad, CA
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 20:18:27 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


I'm looking for a 115-piece drill bit set and am confused about the different
imported sets.  I've seen the following:

	China			$34
	Taiwan			$73
	Vermont American	$214
	Hansen			$275

I have no problem purchasing the Hansen if they'r really worth it.  I would
be using these bits in steel, aluminum, plastic and wood.  I want something
that will last.

Anyone have good information on these or other ideas?  Thanks in advance!

-- 

Scott O'Connell - N6ZEK                UUCP: {nosc, ucsd}!crash!ipars!scotto
Spectrum Data Services                 ARPA: crash!ipars!scotto@nosc.mil
Carlsbad, CA                           INET: scotto@ipars.cts.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Router Table Inquiries
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:03:31 GMT

Bob Haar writes
> I am not sure about the mortising table design Stan was discussing,
> but I built one from the WoodSMith plans. In this one, you
> don't plunge the router, you move the wood. 

This is what the original poster wanted to avoid. 

If I recall correctly, the Woodsmith design is a variant of Spielman's 
design, with the router mounted horizontally on a vertically swinging 
board. This *is* what Stan was talking about, I believe.


> The big advantage of this setup is that the work piece is resting flat
> on a table surface. This makes it much easier to control. And you can
> clamp temporary guides pieces to the table to act as stops.

The big disadvantages are:
 1) You have to pivot the wood into the bit. For deep mortises that aren't
    very long, this is tricky.

 2) If the mortises are deep you need multiple passes. A plunge router is
    the fastest and easiest way to make mulitple passes on multiple cuts 
    and still end up with the same depth on all the mortises. You could
    mount a plunge router to the swinging board, which is what Stan 
    recommended, but you'd end up using the plunge feature only as a means 
    to reset bit depth. You'd still end up swinging the wood into the 
    spinning bit.

 3) As for stop blocks, if the piece being mortised is longer than your 
    router table, where do you put the other stop? I recently cut mortises 
    for a crib, where the pieces being cut were over 4' long. Is your router 
    table big enough? Mine isn't.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Opinions are mine alone.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Using half of blade stabilizer: didn't work for me
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 00:38:55 GMT

In <wood.721585470@geode1> wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood) writes:

>   I recently bought a pair of the tablesaw blade stabilizers from Freud.
>On attempting to use them, I found that the thickness of the stabilizer
>moved my blade over to interfere with the table insert.  Remembering that
>someone on the net had this problem and proposed using only the outer 
>stabilizer, I removed the inner one and ripped a trial board with a
>Freud rip blade.  

I bought a Forrest blade stabilizer just a couple of days ago.  It was
expensive ($26 for a 6" stabilizer) but the reason I chose it was because
you only use _one_.  I was worried about the table insert clearance problem
too.  It's nothing but a heavy, flat disc with a hole in the middle.
Haven't used it yet, so I can't say if it'll help any...

>   I was extremely dissatisfied with the sawmarks on the cut, and started 
> ....
>

>   I wanted to point out this potential problem, and see if anyone has
>further observations on this experience.  Also, I'm considering buying
>a couple of those plastic inserts: has anyone tried them?

Not yet, but I'm thinking about it.  Looking forward to hearing what
people have to say about them...

-Paul
grun@intellistor.com


-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: larryh@cabezon.uucp (Larry Huntley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: BIG lathes?
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:12:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: cabezon.1992Nov23.211215.2977
Organization: Logic Modeling Corporation of Beaverton Oregon


    Could someone please point me towards construction plans or details
    for construction of a lathe for large (long) workpieces?  I need to
    turn some porch posts and the work will be 6X6 or 8X8 (inches) by
    8 to 10 feet long.

    I can recall discussions where 2X12s are used for the rails, but I
    can't find any other details.

    Any and all help and suggestions will be appreciated.

    (Yes, it might be possible to turn these in sections.)

    Thanks,

    - Larry Huntley
-- 
         (larryh@lmc.com)         | I'm going to the love-in to sit
     Logic Modeling Corporation   |    and play my bongos in the dirt.
          Beaverton,  OR          |        - "Flower Punk", Frank Zappa
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:10:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Planing glued-up boards
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET> writes:
>
>I remember an author in FWW a while back (don't remember the issue) describing
>his method for flattening glued-up panels: he builds them in 12"-wide sections
>and runs them through his planer before gluing up the sections to each other.
>Won't this trash the knives? (Or is it worth it to have a nice, flat tabletop.)
>----------

    I have put some glued-up panels through my planer.  It didn't hurt the
    steel knives, as far as I can tell.  I went on to plane a lot of other
    lumber.

    Why would glue hurt the knives?

    I have found that paint dulls them, apparently because the pigment
    is gritty.  Also, I have planed down used deckwood, and the knives
    get dull a little more quickly because of the tiny amount of embedded
    grit in the old wood.   
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 17 Nov 1992 16:48:22 EST
Comments:     Converted from PROFS to RFC822 format by PUMP V2.2X
From:         George <GDEROUSI@ONONDAGA.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Upstate NY Sawmilling?

The person looking for the portable sawmill in upstate New York may want to
contact Bill Church in Caughdenoy. His phone # 676-3402. He owns such a
machine and may be able to help.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking