HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: reg@dptg.att.com (51351[efw]-Regina Mackiewicz(MT4799)1374MT)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Cantelope question
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:30:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T BL Middletown/Lincroft NJ USA

this is the first year i'm growing cantelopes. question: how many
fruit do i allow on each vine?  right now i see one or two just starting
to grow, the others are still in the flower stage. there are MANY flowers
so what's good way to handle this?  i don't want a lot of tiny cantelopes
but then again i don't want one or two basketball sized ones either.

any suggestions??
thanks in advance
reg
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Subject: The Burrowers
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:19:08 GMT


How can I tell if the creature suddenly leaving perfect round 2-3" holes at
the edge of the flowerbed is a mole or a gopher, and what damage do they do
to what and how do you get rid of them if you should? Thank you.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Subject: Gelder Rose Mystery Solved!!
Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 19:42:41 GMT


	In an earlier posting I had asked for the ID of plants
called "gelder roses" that T. Jefferson planted at Monticello.
Via E-mail and the net I have learned that this term referred
to a plant that is not a rose at all, but a viburnum.  Today
I received a copy of THOMAS JEFFERSON'S FLOWER GARDEN AT
MONTTICELLO and found the answer to the last part of the
puuzzle, the reason why they were called "gelder" It turns out
that the specific variety Jefferson planted was Viburnum opulus
var. sterile.  The plants literally were "geldings," incapable of
producing fertile seed.

	As Inspector Clouseau said, "The mystery is sol-ved!"

J. Del Col
-- 
Jeff Del Col      *       "I'm never lonely,...living in my heavily      
A-B College       *   populated solitude, a harum-scarum of infinity        
Philippi, WV      *   and eternity, and Infinity and Eternity seem to          
                  *   take a liking to the likes of me." Bohumil Hrabal.
From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Subject: Pitcher Plants-Tropical and Otherwise
Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 12:07:47 GMT


	The tropical pitcher plant genera are Nepenthes and Heliamphora.
Nepenthes occur in Southeastern Asia, though one well known species, N.
Khasiana, occurs in India.  Heliamphora species occur in South America.

There is also the odd little pitcher plant Cephalotus folicularis that
is native to Australia- though I'm not sure its environment could be
described as tropical.

	The North American pitcher plants belong to the genus Sarracenia.
S. purpurea has been introduced to several European locations as well as
into the British Isles and Ireland.  The plant Mark has is S. purpurea, 
a native North American species.

J. Del Col
-- 
Jeff Del Col      *       "I'm never lonely,...living in my heavily      
A-B College       *   populated solitude, a harum-scarum of infinity        
Philippi, WV      *   and eternity, and Infinity and Eternity seem to          
                  *   take a liking to the likes of me." Bohumil Hrabal.       
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bab@icd.ab.com (Brian A. Batke)
Subject: Improving clay soil
Organization: Allen-Bradley Co., Highland Heights, OH
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 12:08:42 GMT


I'm looking for advice on how to improve our clay soil to make
it suitable for annual/perennial/shrub beds and a vegetable garden.

I've read in this newsgroup that ground fir bark is ideal.
Unfortunately, none of the garden or landscape suppliers in
the area (greater Cleveland) have even heard of it. Is this
something that's just available out west? The local suppliers
all say to use peat moss, which I don't think will help the 
drainage problem.

So what can we do? We're thinking maybe we can add a mixture of
sand and peat moss. Any other ideas? 

Thanks,

 - Brian


-----------
Brian Batke
bab@icd.ab.com
Allen-Bradley Co., Highland Hts, Ohio
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: umak@atar.epps.kodak.com (Uma Krishnan)
Subject: Lawn seed/fertilizer that is child safe and repells insects
Reply-To: umak@atar.Atex.Kodak.COM
Organization: Atex Publishing Systems, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 06:47:37 GMT

I would like to put lawn seeds/fertilzer that is child safe and at the
same time repells insects. 

I would like to hear what is the net wisdom on that - Does one such exist ?

Also I would like to get some general tips on lawn maintenance. The house
that we are moving into has lawn but is by no means designer's. I would
not like to till and re-seed, because I do not wish to distrub existing
vegetation. So that possibility is ruled out. So that implies that I can
only improve my existing lawn.

Thanks a million in advance

Uma Krishnan

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan)
Subject: how much sun does "fairy rose" really need?
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 17:28:25 GMT
Distribution: ny
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

I have read ads for them stating "blooms on the north
side of your house where nothing else will".  They would
look nice in my yard, in a spot which gets 3 hours of
direct sun and the rest light shade.  Growing there now
are hostas, astilbes and some day lilies.
Has anybody
tried them in such locations?  Also, what is a good
spacing for them?  Chris Sundaresan 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fr@compu.com (Fred Rump from home)
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetles everywhere
Organization: CompuData Inc.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 16:44:31 GMT

vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers) writes:


>     Fred, strangely, I`ve noticed that not all marigolds are attacked.  It
>seems to be that they attack the large yellow marigold hybrids but not the
>little run-of-the-mill marigolds.  Perhaps the large ones lack a deterrent,
>or possess an attractant.  This may only be coincidental to my yard.  I hand
>pick them.  They may largely appear in cycles.  Perhaps you could plant some-
>thing sacrificial near the marigolds.

Damn! You're right. I didn't think anything of it but now that you mention it 
I have no problem with the low bushy and orangy marigolds but those tall 
yellow ones - wow, they love them.

Someone here suggested I move my traps further away from the scene but it's 
been raining and the beetles don't seem to be around the last few days. I 
either got them all or they invade by flight squadron.

I have three traps now and two are half full. I wonder what I should do with 
them - the trash?

Fred 
-- 
W. Fred Rump 	office:	   fred@COMPU.COM     'mans feet have grown/so big 
26 Warren St.   home: fred@icdi10.compu.com  that he/forgets his littleness'
Beverly, NJ. 08010                          		Don Marquis 
609-386-6846    bang:uunet!cdin-1!icdi10!fr   
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Re: Marigolds
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:10:32 GMT

     The little old-fashioned marigolds are reputed to do that, and I have
no reason to detract from that, but the large, tall marigolds DRAW 
Japanese Beetles and aphids.

Vince Summers
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
From: kcrady@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Kirk Crady)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: reel-type mowers
Date: 29 Jul 92 16:00:55 GMT
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory


	The reel-type mower I bought several weeks ago was manufactured
by American Mower Company. I got it from a local hardware store for $120.
Plow and Hearth shows one in their catalog for $119. 
	Reel-type mowers have apparently gotten considerably lighter than
their now-antique predecessors, according to old-timers I've talked to. 
Its so much easier to push this around than my old 21" power mower, that 
it hardly feels like I'm mowing at all. You're not pushing around the power
source, either, you ARE the power source. 
	As to how much longer to expect to spend mowing, the one I got
has roughly a 17" cutting swath. That's roughly 80% as wide as a 21". 
If you assume all other factors such as walking speed being equal, I guess
you'd cut about 80% as fast as your power mower.
	The manual I have recommends lubricating the reel and gears every
couple of weeks with something like WD-40. Other than hosing it down after
each use, that's all I've done to it. My manual also claims that I can
expect to re-sharpen the blades about every two years. Well that seems a
little unlikely to me, but then I've never used one of these things before.
It certainly still cuts as well as it did three weeks ago. At any rate, 
the main cutting mechanism is the horizontal bar underneath the mower and 
between the wheels, which the rotating reel sweeps the grass past in a 
scissoring action. This is supposed to be healthier on the grass as it 
produces a clipped end rather than a shredded one.
	From what I saw in the instructions, sharpening appears to be a
process of reassembling the mower so that the reel runs backward past
the cutting bar. I think you need some lapping compound for this, but
other than that, it looks like you just push it around for a little while
and it hones itself. Guess I'll know better the first time I try this :-).
	Its less noisy than a power mower - sounds like a half dozen pairs
of hedge clipping scissors going at once, there are no fumes, and
maintenance is lighter. One drawback I've noticed is that if your lawn is
anything less than homogenous grass, the cut may be a little ragged. Taller
weeds, such as wild onions or plantain spikes tend to just get bent over
without being cut. Also, if you pick up a stick, the whole thing jams to 
an immediate halt, and you risk dulling the blade.

Well, that's my 'reel review'. Hope it helps.

Kirk

kcrady@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Susan J Saari <saari@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Ameriflora
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 18:37:29 GMT


Since I live in Columbus, I decided to take advantage of having
Ameriflora here. I have a season pass and and have been to it about
8 times, the latest of which was last Sunday. I love it! It is just
as wonderful now as it was when it opened. Every time I go I see 
something different. This past time I wandered upon the Germany
garden which had a section of the "wall" recently taken down with
the reunification of Germany. It was very strange to touch it.

My parents came out from the east coast to see Ameriflora, because I
told them it's something one shouldn't miss. They really enjoyed it.

As you probably have heard we've had almost a foot of rain in July
(yes, a FOOT). The flowers have come through it all amazingly well.
There have been many new plantings throughout the spring and summer.
Each garden has been sponsored by an organization or company. Each
have done an amazing job maintaining their respective plots. I have
my favorite gardens which I go see every time. They include: the Aids
Living Quilt, Victory Garden, Australia, Japan, Mexico, the Scotts
Grass displays, the Old World Rose Garden, and the Disney topiaries.

Don't miss the exhibits, "I Love this Land," and "Seeds of Change."
The first one shows the beauty and diversity of our part of the 
country (they call it the heartland of the America); and the second
one talks about the results of the coming together of the two 
ancient cultures that resulted from Columbus visit in 1492 and
those explorers who followed him. It is sponsored by the Smithsonian
as part of their exhibit of the same name in Washinton D.C.

The entertainment is real Americana. Sunday we saw street performers
(some theatre including people walking by and pulled into the show,
a juggler, a mime artist), Irish traditional dancing, cloggers and
square dancers, marching band, hoola dancing, African singing, 
puppetiers, jazz. We were just walking by and caught some of these
performances.

There is wheelchair access to everything. There is lots of kids-
oriented stuff that I didn't even describe. There are senior citizen
discounts too. Children get in free until the end of July.

If it's raining, don't stay away. I've been in the rain and it was
neat then too. There are lots of little nooks you can step into to
get out of the rain, and the new conservatory is wonderful. They 
have special lectures every day. Finally, I just love America's
Backyard, where there are loads of exhibits with gardening hints.

In short, come on down. If you get here early, you can park in Wolfe
Park right next door to Ameriflora. Get off 71 going east on Broad
and you'll go right to it.

I'd be glad to answer questions if I can. Just email me.

Sue


PS If you stop at a Kroger on the way to buy your tickets, you can get
a couple bucks off the gate price.
From: emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Arnold's pet squirrels
Date: 28 Jul 92 15:49:39 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<1992Jul27.150051.11193@cis.ohio-state.edu>
Reply-To: emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH
Keywords: 

In article <1992Jul27.150051.11193@cis.ohio-state.edu>
amz@iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu (Arnold M Zwicky) writes:
>
>i think jacques will rather take to the idea of training
>the squirrels to do tricks.  has anyone succeeded in getting
>them to do anything beyond sitting up and begging?  can
>you get two or more squirrels coordinated?  i'm reasonably
>familiar with dog training and horse training (and with
>being trained by a cat), but rodents are new territory.

        You can train them to jump for food, to scurry up your
        pant/skirt leg to get the food from your pocket (be 
        careful!), and to knock on the door!

        My step-father has two squirrels (Charlie and Charlotte)
        who are trained.  They love him so much that they literally
        follow him around the backyear/garden like puppies or
        geese after their mother!  And then they flop down 
        beside him when he sits down and squash themselves out
        like squirrels in flight to relax.  Very funny.

                        *          -head
                     ********           - arms
                        *
                        *          -body
                     ********           - legs
                        "
                        "
                        "          -tail

        EM
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister)
Subject: Re: Wabbits
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 31 Jul 92 13:24:12 CDT

In article <1992Jul27.140918.21851@samba.oit.unc.edu> frosty@med.unc.edu (Steve Loechel) writes:
>I put out
>the Havahart trap, and baited it with muffins, since we had a
>muffin surplus at the time. Each night I would catch a cat, and
>not the same cat either. I got tired of catching cats instead of
>the possum, so I eventually gave up. Why are cats so attracted to
>muffins? Do muffins awaken some ancestral muffin-hunting memories?
>
>--Frosty

I know this is off the subject, but I'm so amazed I have to respond.  Our
cats (four of them) are very good about staying out of the wastepaper
baskets UNLESS there's a muffin paper cup in the trash.  Then forget it!
They'll root until they find it, then leave little shards of it all over
the room.  And I thought that ours just had a sweet tooth (each) or
something!

Jill McAllister
(jill@cray.com)
From: chrisda@jacobs.CS.ORST.EDU (David Christensen)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: earwigs
Date: 27 Jul 92 21:57:20 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Outreach Services - Oregon State University

In article <92207.124636IO11438@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> IO11438@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Just Suppose or Juxtapose) writes:
>  I just trimmed 6"-12" up my tomato plants to remove and prevent more
>  early blight. I startled a couple dozen earwigs that I watched scurry
>  under my black plastic mulcher. Seems like an ideal place to raise them:
>   dark and damp.  So how DO I keep them under control?  I would prefer an
>   organic method if possible.
>
>    All help will be appreciated.
>
>               Bud
>
Ignore them.  I use this method and I've never lost a tomato plant to them.

(Seriously, why do you NEED to control them?  Are they eating your plants, or
are they just hanging out?  I think earwigs just are scavengers, aren't they?)

David Christensen
chrisda@jacobs.cs.orst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: SUSAN.A..BOHN@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Susan Bohn")
Subject: Shallots - Recipe
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs
Date: 21 Jul 92 10:49:18 EST

One of my favorite uses for shallots is as a confit to accompany meats (this
is really great with a pork tenderloin):

     Peel a goodly number of shallots (whatever you have on hand or can
     afford).  Place in a small saucepan (like 3-4" across) with some water
     (this is one of those intuitive recipes!).  Enough water to make 1/4 -
     1/2" in the pan.  Simmer very very slowly until the shallots can be
     mashed with a fork.  Add a little salt and/or sugar to taste.  Final
     consistency should be a little thicker than applesauce, and not runny
     at all.  Also great if you substitute white wine for the water!

Confits can be made with onions, garlic, beets, carrots, etc.  The best ones
seem to be made from vegetables that caramelize somewhat so that you can play
the sweet flavor against the flavors of the meat and meat juices.

I used to wonder about the fabulous little dibs and dabs of things you get as
accompaniments in French restaurants.  Did a little research, and discovered
confits, and how easy they are to make.

Susan
From: tony@scotty.dccs.upenn.edu (Anthony Olejnik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: testing soil type
Date: 23 Jul 92 11:39:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In "The Chemical Free Lawn" by Warren Schultz there`s a section (pg 3) on
how to judge the relative amounts of sand, loam, and clay in your soil.

Basically, you place some dry soil in a glass jar, fill with water, shake,
and then let it settle for 24 hours.  After that time, the different soil
types will have settled into layers (with sand on the bottom, silt in the
middle, and clay on top).  By determining the percentage of each individual
layer (with respect to the total amount in the jar), you`re supposed to be
able to see the composition of your soil.

Well, I just tried this the other day. And either this method doesn't work
or I have 100% of the same type of soil (since the book didn`t clearly
indicate how to distinguish one layer from the next in this example).

The extra water I used to fill the jar certainly `rose' to the top, but the
rest of the contents all look the same.

QUESTIONS:  Has anyone tried this method?
	    Does it work?
	    I waited 24 hours, should I wait longer?
            Do I have only a single soil type?
            If so, what type (sand, silt, clay)?
           
also,
	    what`s the difference between loam and silt?

Thanks in adance.

--tony

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: seeley@cerl.uiuc.edu (Joseph Seeley)
Subject: Re: tomatillos
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 13:05:09 GMT

The responses I got from this newsgroup said to harvest them when the
papery husk around them splits, when they turn yellow, or when they fall
to the ground.

I also received some recipes which I can send you.  Send request by e-mail.

Joseph Seeley	| seeley@cerl.uiuc.edu
		| seeley / cca / cerl
From: jmh@CRITTER.PRIME.COM (Jeanne Heim x5638)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: rec-gardens
Date: 27 Jul 92 13:18:42 GMT


Hi,
 
I would like some insight into growing plumeria plants as an indoor
plant in northeastern MA. I have 3 cuttings that are about 1 year old. They
each have 6-10 leaves that look very healthy. I have not gotten any flowers
as of yet. When can I expect them to bloom and what must I do to obtain this?
any information about these plants would be very helpful. please respond by 
email as I do not frequent this newsgroup very often. THANKS 8^)
 
Jeanne
From: ericr@vcd.hp.com (Eric Ross)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Rototillers
Date: 28 Jul 92 15:05:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: vcd.Bs3twy.CtB
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

I use a Troybilt (4 hp) tiller on my 20x40 garden and it has saved me
many hours.  It also can till 8-10 inches with no difficulty.  I started
from a grassy field so the tiller was especially useful for me.  The Troybilt
is not fancy but it is built like a tank and has performed well for the last
couple of seasons.

--
Eric Ross
CIM Engineering, 
Hewlett Packard, Vancouver Division
Internet:    ericr@vcd.hp.com
HPDesk:      Eric Ross /HP5400/AL
From: darsie@eecs.ucdavis.edu (Richard Darsie)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pumpkins
Date: 29 Jul 92 17:32:52 GMT
Organization: University of California, Davis

Greetings all gardeners!

We have a pumpkin plant in our garden which is rapidly taking
over the yard. This thing is amazing! It already has two
pumpkins the size of basketballs. They're a nice orange color.
My question is, should we pick them now or just let them sit
on the vine till October? There are at least 4 other younger
ones coming along. Will the pumpkins just keep getting bigger
as long as they're on the vine or do they actually stop growing
at some point?  Sorry if this is a FAQ.  

Please e-mail responses as I do not read this group regularly.

Thanks in advance,

Richard
From: johanes@newton.ce.nd.edu (Johanes Suhardjo)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Cactus mail order dealer?
Keywords: Cactus, mail order
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:40:44 GMT
Reply-To: suhardjo@ndcvx.cc.nd.edu
Organization: Civil Engineering Notre Dame

Hi,
Can somebody give me the address of a cactus mail order dealer?
Thanks in advance.

-- 

 Johanes Suhardjo	suhardjo@ndcvx.cc.nd.edu    johanes@certb.ce.nd.edu  
 ____________________________________________________________________________
|		       University of Notre Dame				     |
| Civil Engineering and Geological Sciences	(219) 239-7297               |
| Office of University Computing		(219) ???-????               |
| P.O. Box 825, Notre Dame, IN 46556            (219) 277-3745		     | 
 ____________________________________________________________________________
From: kleinj@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: BUNNIES in garden
Date: 21 Jul 92 23:02:06 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

I'm an organic gardener with bunnies in the backyard.  Those cute little
rascals started eating my soy beans, so I caged those rows in chicken wire. 
Apparently, they're not fond of green beans, tomatoes, zucchini, squash, or
broccoli nearby--at least not yet.  They seem to be nibbling at some carrot
plants I allowed to go to seed.

I realize I could live trap them if I really wanted to get rid of them, but I'd
rather not.  Instead, I keep sending my cats out to chase them to let them know
who's territory this is.

Should I be worrying about any other "real" damage to my garden, flowering
shrubs (ex. Rose of Sharon), or other plants?  Am I going to be sorry next
year if and when they multiply that I didn't get rid of Momma and babies this
year?

Jeanne Klein
Creature-lover
Newsgroups: rec.gardens