HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: puddle problems
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:22:48 GMT

aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
> someone posted before, and said that you can take your car in, and VW should
> put their splash guard on for free..they know that all of them should have
> come with one, i guess.  I dunno if that dude is still reading or not..

I think I'm that dude -- I got a free shield installed by VW Canada on my
1990 Golf GTI 16V.  I don't know whether it'd be free if you're out of
warranty, bu it won't hurt to ask!

Incidentally, neither our '86 Golf GTI nor '89 Jetta Flair suffered much
from this dreaded Puddle Syndrome ...  :)

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Switch on brake pedal w/ chain to clutch???
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 23:38:49 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.042655.12074@wuecl.wustl.edu>, anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander) writes:
|> I have a 82 (Air cooled) Vanagon with a "feature" that I can't explain.
|> On the stem of the brake pedal there is a round thing with a lever on 
|> it.  Tied to the lever is a chain (like the ones they use to tie pens
|> to banks so you don't steal them after you sign your check) which runs
|> down to the floor, around a guide and to the clutch pedal.  The net 
|> effect being that if you step on either the brake or the clutch, the
|> lever moves.  Also on the dohickie there are a wire and a hose which
|> run off into the floor.  
|> 
|> What the heck is this for.  Neither Bentley or Haynes mention it, and
|> it doesn't seem to make any difference if I have it connected or not.
|> 

Someone had installed a Dana aftermarket cruise control on your car at
one time.  The chain acts as an electrical disconnect signal if either
the clutch or brake are pressed. And the same switch assembly vents any
vacuum that might still remain in the throttle servo.

Check to see if there is a throttle servo in your engine bay.  It will be
a round cylindrical unit (about 3" round and 4-5 inches long).  The system
may not be working or was removed before you bought the car.

Mark
Organization: Doctoral student, Industrial Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 12:29:21 -0500 
From: Doug vanderVeen <dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Air FAQ - Call for Papers

Knowledge is like manure; you have to spread it around if it's going to
do any good. (Now, who said that?)

I've grown tired of a lack of FAQ for air-cooled VW's.  Therefore, I
will make one.  Please send me your submissions on questions that seem
to come up around here.  I will edit them together by subject, and post
the answeres by subject as they appear complete.  After any comments
have been made and any corrections made I will assemble the various
answers into a FAQ.

Initial Requests: (These are just what I could think of.  Please add
anything important.)

Can I use unleaded gas?
My heat doesn't work, what do I do now?
Where do I get parts?

Hmm, seems like I can only think of recent questions.  Help me out here
by sending me your answers.

Doug van der Veen
dv0o@andrew.cmu.edu
(602)253-0501
2506 N. 9th St
Phoenix, AZ 85006
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Supertrapp Exhausts
Date: 19 Dec 92 19:10:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO

In article <1992Dec17.193814.32042@watson.ibm.com> mag@minnie.nic.kingston.ibm.com (mag@minnie.nic.kingston.ibm.com) writes:
>I've used both the Gillette and the Leistritz.   The  Gillette is by far the best.  It is a little
>quieter than the Leistritz, and performs significantly better and lasts longer to boot.  
>You can run a 8V almost all the way to redline without running out of juice.  The down-side is 
>that the Gillette is almost twice as much money.  The Gillette is, however, a stainless steel exhaust
> system and the Leistritz is not. 
>
>
>M. Gray

	Has anyone tried the Techtonics exhaust? How does it compare with the two above?

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Ed Reddy)
Subject: Re: puddle problems
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 13:43:23 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.215546.26983@athena.mit.edu> janson@athena.mit.edu () writes:
>vw gurus:
>
>i've had something strange happen during the last few days if
>inclement (!!) weather up here in boston.
>
>when i've driven through puddle, i've been very careful recently
>to minimize splashing since it (i think) makes my steering belt
>squeal.
>in the last few days yet another thing has appeared, that causes
>me greater worries: both the battery and the oxs lights glow.
>they don't come on full. they just glow a bit and then fade out
>after a few seconds or as soon as i accelerate.
>
>does this indicate failing insulation somewhere? it's an 86 golf
>with about 80K. 
>anyone know what's going on here.
>
>james.
A 86 Golf has power steering?
 
Huh?
 
I bet it isn't your 'steering belt' thats squeeling. It's your altenator
belt. Oxs & Battery light glowing? Altenator altenator altenator....
 
Get it checked out, and check that belt. It might be a simple belt
replacement.
|------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Ed Redddy				"To get back on your feet  |
| ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca              just miss two car payments"|
| Memorial University			    - Anonymous            |
| of Newfoundland      						   |
|------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pz@keps.kodak.com (Paul Czarnecki)
Subject: Re: Supertrapp Exhausts
Organization: Kodak Electronic Printing Systems
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 12:09:35 GMT

In article <BzDK8H.JDx@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>If you are going to use them for an everyday muffler they SUCK!!! I
>had to use my 84 DSP Rabbit GTI for a few weeks [...]
>they are LOUD!!! If you drive the car for more than 30 minutes
>at a time they are PAINFULL!

Well Ric, to be fair to Supertrapp, not all installations are that
loud.  Do you remember the event at Bayside a couple of years ago when
we measured the sound level?  Your car was one of the loudest ones at
the event, including all the Prepared and Modified car. (For non
autocrossers read this as Real Race Cars (tm)) I've heard a lot of
other Supertrapps and none has been as loud as yours.  There must be
something about your installation that makes the Supertrapp so loud in
your application.   

					pZ
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Two Newsgroups or One?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 14:04:57 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.022246.11721@wes.on.ca>, tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
>
>I still can't believe that we can't just live together in one group!
>


I agree with Tom here. Obviously there are a couple of people out there 
who agree too...I've noticed a fairly elegant solution popping up here
lately ... somebody is placing a "[A]" before air-cooled articles. So
why not keep the list dealing with ALL VWs and just take the extra
time when we post to place [A] before aircooled stuff and [W]
when we post watercooled stuff?

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)
Subject: Re: 68 Beetle questions
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:32:17 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Summary: Aerodynamics!

In article <Bz3srw.KB@dcs.ed.ac.uk> bwm@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Bruce Miller) writes:
>In article <1992Dec9.151654.4505@novatel.cuc.ab.ca>, rfarrow@novatel.cuc.ab.ca (Ron Farrow) writes:
>> 
>> 	2-I need to either raise the backend or lower the front-
>> 	  end to level this '68 Beetle.  Any ideas that are fairly
>> 	  easy and inexpensive.
>> 
>> I'd appreciate any comments anyone would have.
>  
>    The bug should be level anyway so check suspention all round for 
>wear.

Be careful to raise/lower both ends of the car the same amount -
the nose-high stance of later Beetles is to improve their aerodynamic
stability at high speeds. The problem is that the center of lift is
toward the rear, and at high speeds (>70 mph) the rear wheels start
getting pretty light. Too high (>110 mph), they take right off, the
car swaps ends, and splat! Scrap metal replaces your pretty Bug.

Road racing Beetles often have big whale-tail spoilers to counteract this...

...laura.
From: morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton)
Subject: Re: Oil change interval was:Re: Passat?
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Univ. of Western Ontario, London, Canada
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 22:36:58 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.144843.25011@daffy.cs.wisc.edu> stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson) writes:
>Just a general question here.  I was always led to believe that a reasonable oil
>change interval was every 3000 mi.  Isn't 12000 km (7500 mi) expecting a little
>much out of you oil?  Otherwise have I been wasting a lot of oil, and thereby
>creating unneccesary amounts of used oil?  Comments? 

Yes, 5000 km (3000 miles) is the recommended oil change interval, regardless
of what the owner's manual says. I do change the oil every 5000 km, but what I
was replying to in the original post was the question of maintenance costs --
the scheduled oil-change interval is 12 000 km.

This scheduled service also includes minor checks, adjustments if necessary.

-- Brent
morton@artifis.gaul.csd.uwo.ca

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: puddle problems
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 23:04:30 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.215546.26983@athena.mit.edu>, janson@athena.mit.edu () writes:
>vw gurus:
>
>i've had something strange happen during the last few days if
>inclement (!!) weather up here in boston.
>
>when i've driven through puddle, i've been very careful recently
>to minimize splashing since it (i think) makes my steering belt
>squeal.
>in the last few days yet another thing has appeared, that causes
>me greater worries: both the battery and the oxs lights glow.
>they don't come on full. they just glow a bit and then fade out
>after a few seconds or as soon as i accelerate.
>
>does this indicate failing insulation somewhere? it's an 86 golf
>with about 80K. 
>anyone know what's going on here.
>
>james.
This is really common especially if you have A/C. The water gets into
the A/C clutch and also in the pulley. The A/C belt actually drives
the water pump from the crank pulley. The alternator gets driven
from the water pump pulley. When you go thru a puddle, the belts
slip, the alternator "stalls"...your ALT light comes on. The 
OXY light comes on because its designed to come on whenever
the alt light comes on as a way of letting you know the oxy
light works when you first turn on the ign. key.

Ric Golen

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Parking Brake
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 14:30:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.212035.47852@watson.ibm.com>, tomevans@ralvmm.vnet.ibm.com (tomevans@ralvmm.vnet.ibm.com) writes:
>Help!,
>My parking brake broke, refuses to lock, I think I broke a spring or something
>inside  (the button doesn't feel right), I pulled off the plastic cover, but	
>couldn't figure out how to take apart the handle portion. Has anyone any helpful
>hints?? If its easy, I'll give it a try, else probably add to list for VW dealer
>when I take my 87 golf for the heater core recall. 
Your emergency brake handle has a toothed ratchet arrangement which slides
into the top of the chasis hump. Inside the handle is a toothed finger,
which sits inside of a thin metal rod. This rod is curved at one
end to accept the top of the finger, the other end of the rod
is attached to the button at the end of the handle. If you yank too
hard on the handle, then the  finger pops off of the end of the
rod. To fix this you need to loosten up the adjusting nuts, assuming
you have already taken off the cover. Then pop off the balance bar which the 
emergency brake cables attach thru. This will free up the emergency brake
handle.

At the back of the emergency brake handle is a pivot pin with a clip
on one side. Remove the clip, and slide the pin out, thus freeing
the handle. Lift the handle up and out. Flip the handle on its
back, and rotate the finger so that the teeth face the back of the
handle. Push in the button so that the rod is pushed back. Engage
the top of the finger into the curved part of the rod. Now flip
the handle over, push the button in, hold it, and put the
handle back in its original place, and put in the pin. drop
the handle, release the button and it will engage the teeth
on the chasis piece. Put all of the stuff back together.


>BTW, for the recall, what
>expenses if any do I pay for (i.e labor?), and is there a time limit on the 	
>recall? I got the initial letter notifying me of the recall but never got the 
>follow up letter to tell me when parts would be available.
>Thanks for any info...
>-- 
>Tom Evans  TCP/IP Development
>TOMEVANS@RALVMM.VNET.IBM.COM; (919) 254-4097
All of the parts/labor/coolant is free!

Ric
From: dennis@ka.novell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re : How to stop oil in air filter (was K&N ...
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:59:59 GMT
Reply-To: dennis@ka.novell.com ()
Distribution: usa
Organization: Novell, Inc., San Jose, Ca

This thread was discussing how to stop the crankcase fumes/oil from
getting into the air filter. On my 84 gas Rabbit, the crankcase ventilation is
set up such that air goes FROM the air filter towards the valve cover.
This is because the PCV sucks more gas than the engine can generate in
oil vapour and blow-by losses and any input air must be clean, so it
comes from the clean side of the air filter. 

When my PCV got blocked up, I got oil and stuff in the air filter. I
just poked the PCV clean with a bit of wire.


The human mind ordinarily operates at only ten percent of its capacity
-- the rest is overhead for the operating system.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Supertrapp Exhausts
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:04:51 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.120935.20985@keps.kodak.com>, pz@keps.kodak.com (Paul Czarnecki) writes:
>In article <BzDK8H.JDx@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>>If you are going to use them for an everyday muffler they SUCK!!! I
>>had to use my 84 DSP Rabbit GTI for a few weeks [...]
>>they are LOUD!!! If you drive the car for more than 30 minutes
>>at a time they are PAINFULL!
>
>Well Ric, to be fair to Supertrapp, not all installations are that
>loud.  Do you remember the event at Bayside a couple of years ago when
>we measured the sound level?  Your car was one of the loudest ones at
>the event, including all the Prepared and Modified car. (For non
>autocrossers read this as Real Race Cars (tm)) I've heard a lot of
>other Supertrapps and none has been as loud as yours.  There must be
>something about your installation that makes the Supertrapp so loud in
>your application.   
>
>				pZ

You are right to an extent Paul, it WAS very loud because I ran it
without all of the baffles, just straight open!  When I ran it on
the street I put in 6 or 7 baffles (any less it would not
go past 4,500 prm, and any more would be a bit "conspicuous").

Even with the six baffles in there it was loud in the car, There 
was that low base noise on acceleration, and the constant humm
at cruise. Maybe its me, after all I drove a Thing for 10
years as a daily driver (74-84), I hate driving a car other than in competition which i
that is somewhat quiet. The Thing had NO sound proofing, talk about
noise!!

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bmesande@nyx.cs.du.edu (Ben Mesander)
Subject: Re: Help on '66 1300 beetle engine needed
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Keywords: 12V, 6V, Carbs
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 19:10:46 GMT


I thought the only difference between 12 and 6 volt carbs was the choke,
which can be swapped with one of the appropriate voltage, or disconnected
entirely.

--Ben
From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: need recommend for SF bay area engine rebuild
Date: 15 Dec 1992 16:04:05 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

I've got to get my VW engine rebuilt for my '65 bus.  I don't
want to do it myself again, I'd prefer to pull the engine out,
pull the carb and shrouding off it and take it somewhere to trade
in or be rebuilt.  Can you recommend places that are good and
inexpensive in the SF bay area.  I have ads from VW trends for
rebuilt engines, but I think this route might be less expensive.

Mike

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward)
Subject: Re: ONE GROUP
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 15:20:25 GMT

ghee@vision.larc.nasa.gov (Terry A. Ghee) writes:

>>Not many words required, I favor keeping this one group.
>>
>>
>>-- 
>>                          Dave Schrader
>>                          schrader@eai.iastate.edu


>Ditto.

>T.A. Ghee

I'll throw in my Ditto, too.



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris T. Ward  DoD#0710   "Don't take life too seriously, you can never come
                           out of it alive."  -?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Subject: Re: Help on '66 1300 beetle engine needed
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 13:35:31 GMT

In article <Bz403J.I76@news.udel.edu>, bew@brahms.udel.edu (Ben Williams) writes:

[Previous discussion re oil additives, etc. deleted]


> That is excellant!  I had never considered that all you need is to replace
> the valves!  Now where are these available?  Does this mean if I say, would
> order new heads from J.C.Whitney (this unfortunately is the only source I
> know of for getting VW parts besides local stores and junkyards), they would
> be set to use unleaded gas?  Well I would think they would since leaded gas
> is awfully rare anymore.  What exactly is the diffence in the valves and
> guides for unleaded gas?  I could understand maybe the way the valves and
> valve seats were cut, but the valve guides?
> 
> Could someone list some good sources of VW parts?

I would *never* trust JCW to supply the correct valves and guides.  
Try to locate a machine shop that does VW work.  This is 
becomeing *very* difficult, but the machinist should have access to 
the correct valves and guides to properly rebuild your heads.  The 
valve guides are (I think) silicon bronze and are self-lubricating, 
taking the place of metallic lead formed during combustion which used 
to lubricate the old style guides (cast iron?).  The newer valves are 
also some material which is compatible (also the valve seats?).  

Mail order parts are a hassle, but if you can't find a parts shop or 
VW repair shop where you are that's your only choice.  Gene Berg in 
probably the best in quality and completely reliable, but also the 
highest price.  If you can't find an East coast parts mail order, try 
Archway Import Auto Parts in St. Louis.  (314) 638-7700.  They are 
closed Monday, open Tuesday-Sunday except for 13:00-13:30 CST.  They 
are somewhat slow to get parts in, but they run their own machine shop 
and I have found their work to be reliable.  Their machinist is well 
aware of the unleaded gas issue, but mention it anyway.  Also, when 
calling about ordering have the part numbers stamped on *each* of your 
heads, including all appended letters and extra stampings.  Jim is 
very knowledgeable and will do his best to help you over the phone.  
Be prepared for paying $$$ for freight on the heads and shipping back 
the cores.  

I would urge you to find some East coast VW club.  They will know of 
the reliable parts houses and machinists in your area.

--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: vijay@controls.ccd.harris.com (Vijay Ruhela)
Subject: Jetta cooling fan. Need fana and tips on changing.
Organization: Harris Controls and Composition
Distribution: fl
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 18:11:16 GMT

HI VWers:

I have this '87 Jetta GL and its fan bearing seems to be making
some noise. I think it is going to give way sometime soon.
Where can I get a cheap replacement from and how difficult is it
to change. (looking at it, it seems pretty straight forward but
is it going to be tricky ?)

I am also looking for a couple of spare body parts(a front left turn
indicator and a rear door lock knob).

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Vijay
(vijay@ccd.harris.com)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson)
Subject: Oil change interval was:Re: Passat?
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Madison -- Computer Sciences Dept.
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 14:48:43 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.063218.28184@julian.uwo.ca> morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton) writes:
>In article <1992Dec17.134847.26178@bmerh85.bnr.ca> seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour) writes:
>>I am considering buying a '91 passat GL.  Does anyone have anythig particularly good or bad to say about passats.  I am a bit concerned about maintenance costs and about the cam chain. 
>
>I've posted -- more than once -- nothing but praises for my 1991 GL, currently
>with 39 000 km. Major services occur every 24 000 km; so far I've only had one,
>but I recall the cost as being $150-200. Oil-change and related maintenance
>is (by the book) every 12 000 km; the 36 000 service cost under $30. I've found

Just a general question here.  I was always led to believe that a reasonable oil
change interval was every 3000 mi.  Isn't 12000 km (7500 mi) expecting a little
much out of you oil?  Otherwise have I been wasting a lot of oil, and thereby
creating unneccesary amounts of used oil?  Comments? 
Thanks,
Phil
stephens@erciris122.me.wisc.edu

[rest of the previous post deleted]
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Opinions on 72 Bug Fate, please
Date: 11 Dec 92 20:31:21 GMT
Organization: Naval Underwater Sound Center, New London CT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

Regarding the 72 Bug...

The opinion of the response so far is that the biggest problem is the front end
frame.  I agree, even though at the moment it is holding together with 2" angle
iron welded on each side.  It still rattles like crazy, though.  I was told by
the mechanic that the 'tunnel' was not broken.  I don't think it's as bad as
maybe I made it sound.

I don't know if I actually took the body off, exactly what I would find.  Is it
likely to be repairable?  It not what's the chance that I could get a new
frame?  Are there places that sell used or new frame/pans?

A couple of more questions:

What's the recommended type of oil? 10w30 or 10w40?  Should the oil be checked
while the engine is cold, or hot?  The oil seems to read lower after it's been
running...

Jim.

Jim Baranski, Vax Systems | It's Not Easy Keeping Vaxen Working ...  Underwater!
Analyst, Naval Underwater | BARANSKI@VEAMF1.NUSC.NAVY.MIL 203-440-6510, 889-4968
Systems Ctr, New London CT| Be: Thoughtfull, Honest, Yourself, Happy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw