From: jld@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Deeney)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Bomb Proofing XRs
Date: 14 Aug 92 20:24:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpfcso.124510107
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA

dunne@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Dunne) writes: 
>     Can you zip-tie the clutch cable out of the way of tree branches
>     etc., or would this cause too much binding?  Or are these unusual
>     circumstances that cased the breakages?  I don't suppose bark
>     busters would help any...

The exposed part of the clutch cable is where it loops down beside the
engine, just before it attaches to a bracket that is a cast portion of the
left engine sidecover.  It's very susceptible to hanging on branches. 

I'm told that Scott Summers routes his clutch cable along the frame
down-tube.  Since  this is right inbetween the exhaust pipes (and the 
frame carries hot oil) I can't imagine that clutch cable longevity is 
spectacular.  It may also require a longer cable.  I'll fiddle with
this in the off-season. I plan on wrapping the cable with some type of
heat-shielding material.  

mcclend@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Mike McClendon) writes: 
>me their minimum shop fee of $15 for the job.  I had them weld on a thick,
>solid chunk of metal, which I drilled out for the cable -- just drilled a
>hole, but didn't file thru trying to match the original design so I have to
>thread the cable thru the hole rather than slipping it in from the side.

Good design. For anyone with an XR600 with the original bracket
still intact, I'd recommend having the open side of the C-bracket welded
shut.  This will make the bracket at least 2x stronger.  The down side is
that you have to remove the little rubber accordian from the cable, thread 
the cable thru the hole, and replace the accordian, when you want to remove 
the cable.  I'd much rather do this in the comfort of my garage with a cold 
beer beside me, than be stuck on a trail somewhere with no clutch, just as 
it's starting to rain,  lightening is exploding the trees around you,  it's
getting dark, and the howling wolfs are prowling meanacingly through the dark 
timber.  

>The repair is *much* stronger than the original, but I'm a little concerned
>about what might break now if the cable hangs really hard again.  Next time,
>I might just make a simple bracket that is held by a bolt on the cover, but
>isn't part of the cover.

I thought about this too.  I'm building a small steel bracket that mounts
on one of the sidecover bolts.  Since  most of the original bracket is
still intact, I can rely on it for some of the longitudinal support.
Flight testing will be tomorrow.  

As extra security, I have run a safety wire from the clutch cable, about 4
inches in front of the mounting bracket, down to the case protectors.  This
will offer extra support if the cable is caught from below by a stick, like
mine was.  

Does anyone have other tips on bomb proofing XR's?  (They're darn
close already).  Here are some of my thoughts: 

  I'd like to  add a metal support for the rear chain guide.  I'm paranoid 
  of hanging on rocks since I broke one a few years ago.  I'd like 
  a titanium plate for stiffness and lightweight.  Anyone have one of these
  or know who offers them? 

  I was a skeptic about Alumite handlebars, but they really hold up well.
  The soft steel bars are fairly easy to straighten, but they also bend far
  too easily.  I slightly tweaked the Alumites in a hard crash, but so far
  they've more than paid for the cost of the cheap steel replacements that
  I would have had to buy. 

  Barkbusters and Acerbis hand protectors were one of the best investments 
  I've made.  Say goodbye to torn grips and broken levers (not to mention 
  bloodied fingers).  You'll have to chop 2" off the bottom of the hand 
  protectors to keep them from whacking you in the knees. 

  I tend to wear the right engine sidecover where the ankle of my boot rubs.
  The combination of water, dirt, heat, and magnesium, makes them ripe for
  corrosion.  On my last XR, I had worn past the bottom of the recessed Honda
  lettering.  On this bike, I RTV'd a small aluminum plate over the wear
  spot.  When it wears out, I'll just slap on another one.  

  Always run heavy duty inner tubes and replace them every year or two.  
  Closely inspect the tube whenever you have it out.  Watch for seams that 
  are wearing.  Also check the washer around the valve stem for corrosion.  

  The magazine testers for the XR felt that the tubular aluminum case
  protectors were adequate.  I don't believe them.  If you ride in lots
  of rocks, you'll want more protection.  I've been on rides when XRs have
  had to be towed out because of an unexpected oil loss.  Especially exposed, 
  is the vast expanse of cases inbetween the lower frame rails.  I installed 
  an Acerbis skid plate and used a hole-saw to ventilate the front portion 
  for better cooling. 

Time to ride. 

-Jeff Deeney-  KotD #0000  DoD#0498    NCTR    '88 XR600-Shamu   
jld@hpfcla.fc.hp.com       AMA#540813  COHVCO  '81 CB750F-Llamaha 
We don't stop riding because we get old, we get old because we stop riding.
From: jld@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Deeney)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 15:05:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: MX racing question
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA