HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Does Minolta X-700 allow shutter priority auto mode
Keywords: Minolta, camera
Date: 15 Dec 92 20:49:33 GMT
Organization: Tandem Computers (MPD) Austin, TX

In article <fourie.27@odie.ee.wits.ac.za> fourie@odie.ee.wits.ac.za (Andre Fourie) writes:
>I have purchased a 2nd hand Minolta X-700 camera. The camera seems to 
>support only aperture priority "A" and program "P" modes as well as a manual 
>mode. Somebody told me that the camera can be used in shutter priority mode 
>as well. Since the aperture is controlled by the camera in the program mode 
>this appears to be feasible. Does anybody have more information on this. I 
>shall also appreciate any other useful information on this model of camera.
>


	The X-700 does NOT have shutter priority. However, when the camera
    is in Program mode, the camera will select the highest shutter speed
    possible, given aperture and light.

	I had two of these cameas before coverting to AF, and was quite
    happy with them. One of the nice things is the little window above the
    lens mount so you can see what aperture the lens is set. Also, the
    on-off switch is very positive, and not as accident prone as the
    X-7A (European model of the X-370) was.

	Down side is that the camera uses the dreaded silver-oxide button
    batteries. However, I must admit that it is pretty easy on them.



								Bruce



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Bruce Burden            bruceb@mpd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Photo CD Resolution 
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 21:39:53 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu writes:

>Here's another resolution question.  Suppose I'm going to publish a 
>book and I do all of the layout on my PC.  If I use Photo CD for my 
>pictures instead of my original Kodachrome slides, will I notice any 
>difference in the image quality?

Depends on what screen frequency you select for your halftones.  My 
rule of thumb is the graphic image should have about twice the pixels
per inch as the lines per inch in the half-tone.  For example,
I use 300 dpi scans for my standard 150 lpi halftones in my magazine.
Even fine art halftones are rarely more than 250 lpi so 500 dpi 
images should do it.  Note that the DPI referred to is the scanned
dpi.  If you electronically enlarge the image, the dpi goes down, 
of course.

BTW, I just got some literature from Iterated Systems, the guys over
in Norcross, GA who are doing the fantastic image compression using
fractal technology.  Their new product is said to remove pixelation
and restore detail to electronically enlarged images.  Again using
fractal technology.  I'm going to go over there after Christmas
and see if the actual results are as good as the brochure pictures.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: thomas@bnr.ca (Thomas S. Pangborn)
Subject: Olympus IS-3 DLX - Information
Keywords: Olympus IS-3 DLX 
Organization: BNR
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 20:09:26 GMT

Does any one have any performance information on the new Olympus IS-3 DLX?  I currently have an Olympus IS-1 and would like to know how much better is the new IS-3 DLX than the older version.

Thanks,

Thomas S. Pangborn
==================
thomas@bnr.ca
------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: duli@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Li Du)
Subject: Re: HELP: history of Nikkormat FS (not FTn, FT, EL, etc)
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 21:41:51 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.04534726> ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (Eric Chen) writes:
>Recently, I got a chance to collect two near mint condition Nikkormat FS
>(both made in 1974).  I have check over some literature but can not
>found anything about this model. [ ...... ]
>Is the model rare or prominent?  How much should I price?
>
	Nikkormat FS is the simplified version of Nikkormat FT. It's FT
minus exposure meter and mirror lock-up. So an FS should worth less than
an FT, I'd say 20% less. Nikkormat FS was introduced in 1965, and was only
produced for about six years. It was not a popular camera, any other cameras
in the Nikkormat line were superior. It may be rare, but it is definitely 
not a collector's item.

---------------------------------
 Li Du | duli@prony.colorado.edu
---------------------------------
From: mcbzzs@nuscc.nus.sg (Zhao Zhuoshen (Mr))
Subject: reasonable price for Nikon 8008s
Organization: National University of Singapore
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 09:01:11 GMT

Dear netter,
I am going to buy a Nikon 8008s with Nikon AF 28mm-85mm lens before
X-mas. Is there anyone can tell me the reasonable price for this set.
Thank you in advance.
Jackson
mcbzzs@nuscc.nus.sg

From: feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 00:52:18 GMT
Subject: Re: Olympus Stylus Recommendations
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

I am a serious B&W photog., and I use the Stylus as back-up, just for
B&W. I have no direct comparisons to help with, but I have been very happy
with the lens performance. I shoot T-max 400 in it and exposure is still
well controlled for example, in deep forest on overcast day. Shutter speed
is pretty slow under those conditions. 

I don't know how many flash modes you need, but the stylus has 4 if you count
"off" which is an important one to me.

My only complaint is that the camera is so small and light that it is tough
for me to hold it steady in low light.

I get very acceptable 8x10 prints using the above film, and I consider myself
hard to please.

Perhaps you can run a roll through the Stylus and the T4 at a camera store
and compare for yourself. Lots of stores will cooperate this way.

The lens design on the Stylus is supposed to be on the order of what you
find on the old Rollei Xenar. That was not a bad performer either. Perhaps
someone could varify or talk further about lens performance. I read that
somewhere and forget the source.

The Stylus goes for about $120 in the stores around silicon valley. I do
not know how much of a value that is compared to the T4 but its worth a look.

Bob
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon EM - what's that button do?
Date: 20 Dec 92 16:32:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.24456
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill NJ

In article <75768@apple.apple.COM> erc@Apple.COM (Ed Carp) writes:

> First, I assume there isn't a way to put this camera in manual mode - it's
> apeture-priority, camera selects the shutter speed, right?

Correct.

> OK - there is
> a small silver button on the front of the camera, just beneath the film rewind
> knob - what's it for?  It seems to drop the shutter speed 2 stops, so I assume
> it's for backlit metering compensation.

Yes -- but it's 1.5 stops.

> Is the metering center-weighted
> averaging, or full averaging over the entire frame?

Center-weighted averaging.

> Second, there is a lever just to the left of the lens (facing the camera),
> about 1.5 inches below the shutter release.  I thought this was perhaps a
> depth-of-field previewer, or a self-timer, but I can't get it to budge.
> What's the trick, and what's it for?

It's a self-timer lever.  If you can't move it, that may mean you're trying
to press it in toward the camera body as you're moving it.  The shape of
the lever makes it easy to do this.  If you look closely, you'll see a little
pin coming out of the camera body that nestles in a depression in the back
of the lever -- you have to move the lever carefully sideways so that the
pin doesn't dig in.
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: NGFZH@livid.uib.no
Subject: Battery problem with EOS-10
Organization: University of Bergen
Date: 14 Dec 1992 18:35:38 EMT


I have a problem with EOS-10. When I just bought the camera, batteries
run out very quit, no mater how many films I took even only 4-5. I
always locked the camera after using. Afterwards, I have to unload the
battery after use, then it lasts as long as it's expected. Is this problem
common with EOS-10 or just something wrong with my camera?
common with ESO-10 or just something wrong with my camera?

ZH
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Dye Transfers
Date: 13 Dec 1992 02:35:11 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Dye transfer is considered to be the ultimate in color print
production.  It accomplished by making color separated films
called matrices which are then used to transfer the image to fibre
dye transfer paper through the use of dyes of cyan, yellow and
magenta.

It is an exacting process, and Kodak publishes a booklet, publication
number E-80 Kodak Dye Transfer Process.

It is sort of like four color lithography in principle, but the result
is extremely rich and the dyes are very stable.

brian
From: dykema@bvc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: COLOR LASER PHOTOCOPIES
Date: 18 Dec 92 10:21:36 CST
Organization: Buena Vista College, Storm Lake, IA

I am a painter, (landscape, not houses), and have done work in oil on 
primes watercolor paper.  I'm wondering if anyone on the net can geve me 
information on how I might be able to make a sort of "limited edition" full 
color, high resolution, color laser photocopy on something like Arches 
coldpress paper in a 22"x30" format.  I know that I could have cibachromes 
done, or send them off to a printer for a color sep. and then have it 
printed like so many alleged limited editions, but I don't want to get into 
that game at all.  Just curious about the technology out there.  Any names, 
addresses and phone numbers?  

Dennis L. Dykema
Prof. in Art
Buena Vista College
Storm Lake, IA  50588

IN%"dykema@bvc.edu"
From: gray@cac.washington.edu (Terry Gray)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Olympus Stylus Recommendations
Keywords: Olympus
Date: 17 Dec 92 02:45:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Dec17.024508.13803
Organization: UW Networks and Distributed Computing

In article <1992Dec16.072737.17055@hemlock.cray.com> n3022@cray.com writes:
>I am thinking of getting a point-and-shoot instamatic-type
>35mm camera.  The one I really like is the Olympus Stylus.
>It is pocket size, has built in flash, auto-everything (focus,
>exposure, advance, and rewind), red-eye reduction system,
>and the list goes on.
>
>My goal is to have a camera that I can bring with to places where a
>35mm SLR would be too conspicuous.  Also, I want the camera to easily
>fit in my pocket.
>
>Does anyone have any experience positive or negative with
>the Olympus Stylus?

Jim,
I have several friends who have the Stylus, and are very pleased with it.
When I made the decision a couple of months ago, I opted for the Yashica T4.
It has a faster shutter, more AF zones, more flash modes, and some have
said a noticeably sharper lens (I've not done any direct comparisons.)

Subsequently I noticed that Consumer Reports made the T4 their top pick, for
whatever that's worth.  Anyway, I'm very pleased with the T4 and would 
encourage you to take a look at it as well, even though it is slightly
uglier than the Stylus.  (They are about the same size, though.)


--
Terry Gray
 University of Washington
  gray@cac.washington.edu
From: browner@rm1.interlan.com (Michael Browner)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Does Minolta X-700 allow shutter priority auto mode
Keywords: Minolta, camera
Date: 17 Dec 92 14:10:10 GMT
Organization: Racal-Milgo, Sunrise, Florida

In article <fourie.27@odie.ee.wits.ac.za>, fourie@odie.ee.wits.ac.za (Andre Fourie) writes:
|> I have purchased a 2nd hand Minolta X-700 camera. The camera seems to 
|> support only aperture priority "A" and program "P" modes as well as a manual 
|> mode. Somebody told me that the camera can be used in shutter priority mode 
|> as well. Since the aperture is controlled by the camera in the program mode 
|> this appears to be feasible. Does anybody have more information on this. I 
|> shall also appreciate any other useful information on this model of camera.
|> 
|> Andre Fourie

There is no S priority mode.  You can marginally fool the camera in P mode
by setting the aperature to a larger opening the program mode will only
opearate between that selection and the largest.  For example on the 
50mm f1.7 if you set the aperature to f11 then the program mode can only
select aperatures between f11 and f1.7 as well as the corresponding speeds.

Also the little P light will blink when you set it to a larger aperature.

Michael B.
-- 
Michael Browner     		browner@sun1.interlan.com or
(305) 846-6848                  browner@rd1.interlan.com
Racal-Milgo, MS E-112, 
P.O.Box 407044, Ft Lauderdale, FL 33340
From: volker@nsc.nsc.com (Volker Soffel)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Lithiums vs. alkalines (was Re: was going to get 8008s but EOS 10s recommended)
Date: 18 Dec 92 23:59:45 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor, Santa Clara

In article <1992Dec17.222710.8812@adobe.com> asanders@adobe.com (Alan Sanders) writes:
>
>This is certainly a possibility, but I remember that Canon's own
>promotional literature claimed about *half* the number of rolls for 
>a 630 using lithiums as Nikon claimed for an 8008 using AA's. And
>I remember thinking to myself: if the lithium battery costs four 
>times as much and lasts half as long, that makes battery expenses
>EIGHT TIMES higher for the 630. Choosing a camera because it's

You are comparing apples with oranges. 
How long a given battery lasts is a function of a.) capacity and b.) current
draw by a load attached to the battery (in this case the camera). 
If you would use a Lithium and Alkaline with a.) the same capacity and b.)
the same voltage and you would c.) attach the SAME load to each of them, you 
would find out that the Lithium lasts much longer.

If a camera using Lithiums dies sooner as one using Alkaline there can only
be two reasons:

1.) the camera with the Lithiums has a higher current consumption (maybe
    because it has a built in flash or maybe the designers slept ;-) )
2.) The Lithium used in this camera is physically much smaller and lighter 
    and has as
    such a smaller CAPACITY rating than the AAs used in another camera.

Apart from that,  I agree that it is nonsense to design cameras with built
in flash using  Lithiums (not because Lithiums die sooner, but because
if the camera uses AA you can use RECHARGEABLE NICAD batteries).
-- 
Volker Soffel			National Semiconductor Corporation
volker@nsc.nsc.com		Embedded Control Division Applications
(408) 721-4360			Santa Clara, CA95052
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: stchang@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steve Chang)
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Keywords: HELP
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 18:30:57 GMT


     I was a high school photographer for both the paper and
yearbook my senior year and I encountered the same problem.  First
I tried that expensive T-max 3200 but the results were simply
unacceptable.       What I did to solve this problem was to simply
shoot flash and T-max 400.  I shoot five indoor sports last year
and the only one that wouldn't let me shoot flash was swimming.  If
you have a good flash with a zoom head and 400 speed film you
should get forty to fifty feet of flash range.  It helps to have as
high a flash synch as possibly but 90 or 125 will stop action
surprisingly well.

          best of luck to you

          Gabe
          gmccarty@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu

            
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: peterwu@microsoft.com (Peter Wu)
Subject: improvise view finder magnifier?
Date: 12 Dec 92 07:35:07 GMT
Organization: mc
Distribution: usa

I have a view finder magnifier for my EOS 10s, but it's only 2X. I need
a higher magnification (and a wider field please) one. Since Canon
doesn't make any other ones, I wonder how I can improvise one.

I have no background in optics. I just look thru the 2X magnifier and
it seems to have the effect of a telescope. So I grab a 8X binocular
and put it over the view finder. It almost work, except I can't put in
into focus.

Any ideas?
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: Re: How to test paper developer
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 02:35:04 GMT

erc@unislc.uucp (Ed Carp) writes:

>DORAN TJ - BIOLOGY (tjdoran@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca) wrote:

>: I (an amateur) tend to develop only a few prints at a time. I hate to dump
>: developer after only a little use. Trouble is, the (Perrier) bottle I store
>: my developer in has such a narrow neck that I have to use a funnel and it
>: gets *seriously* aerated.
>: 
>: I know chemical bottles are cheap, but I have better things to spend my money
>: on (tuition, rent etc.). Will this aeration greatly affect my developer?

>Yes.  Are you starting with powdered developer, like Dektol, or a liquid
>concentrate?  *Mix* only as much as you will need, print with it, then *please*
>toss it.  If you try and store it and reuse it later, I promise you that you
>will be disappointed with the results.  Also, keep track of the number of
>prints you make with such a small amount of developer, and mix up a fresh
>batch when the developer limit is reached, even if you can't tell a difference.
>If you keep printing, you *will*. :(
>  
>Oh, as to your original question, yes, aeration will affect your developer.
>I used to print in stretches for two or three days at a time.  I found that
>after 24 hours of sitting, Dektol would be greatly weakened - the highlights
>would be consistently blocked, and Zone X blacks would look more like Zone
>VII grays. :(

>If you want to try it, go get another tray the same size as your developer
>tray, and stack the two, with the developer still in the tray.  This will
>tend to prevent your developer from oxidizing, at least for a while.  Sure
>makes it last longer than if it's exposed to the air.
>-- 
>Ed Carp			erc@apple.com, erc@saturn.upl.com	801/538-0177

>Who and what would you be if you went beyond your deepest fears?
Another trick, if you want to use already mixed developer in the
tray for more than a day, is to float Saran wrap on top of the
developer (and the fixer too). This will extend the developer life
to about 2 days.
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yu@cvdv72.mayo.edu ()
Subject: Re: Phantom lights-pse explain
Reply-To: syu@mayo.edu
Organization: Mayo Clinic, Rochester, MN
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 15:56:04 GMT


--You did not mention the exposure time or whether you were using flash.
If you were using flash and a long exposure, then the flash would have
frozen the objects to give them sharp images and the motion of the camera
would give you light streaks.

It is just guess.

*******************************************************************************
Shu-Hon Yu                                   Internet: syu@mayo.edu
Mayo Clinic                                  Voice: (507) 255-6664
200 First Street SW                          FAX: (507) 255-5484
Mail Stop 2D-336 STM            
Rochester, MN  55905            
*******************************************************************************
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Astro-photography (sort of)
Date: 13 Dec 1992 02:21:21 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Hi Laura:

As you probably know the earth's motion will blur the stars after a short
time with a stationary camera exposure, so unless you want star trails
you will have to mount your camera on an equitorially mounted
telescope or similar platform.

If you want to record star trails you can do an interesting exercise which
is to point the camera at the north star, open the shutter for at least 15 minutes, and
you will get concentric star trails.

As far as film is concerned, since star light is relatively faint, you should
use a film around ISO 400 or faster.  You have to bracket exposures.
With 400 ISO film try exposures from a couple of minutes up to 1/2 hour 
or more.

An excellent book on the subject is Astrophotography, the FX system by 
Barry Gordon...any decent astronomical supplier should have it or be able to get
it.  It will tell you all you need to know.

Brian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mac@mercury.Harris-ATD.com (Mike McDonald)
Subject: RA-4 in a tray?
Organization: Advanced Technology Dept, Harris Corp, Melbourne, FL
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 21:42:24 GMT


  Has anyone tried doing RA print developement in a tray? Seems like that's what
our print processor essentially does.

  Mike McDonald				Advanced Technology Dept.	
					Harris Corp.
  Email: mac@trantor.harris-atd.com	M.S. 16-1912
  Voice: (407) 727-5060			P.O. Box 37
  Fax:   (407) 729-3363			Melbourne, Florida 32902
From: atomas@geloser.login.qc.ca (J-F Bissonnette)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Date: 16 Dec 92 06:09:01 GMT
Organization: Gentleman Loser System, Montreal/Qc/Cdn

Well it happends in National parks, but beleive me it happends
in town too!  I've been doing some weddings this summer and 
beleive me that you will find those kind of people there.  AS
a good exemple, when I was preparing to make a very important
shot (the rings), two of those weekend photgraphers got RIGHT
in front of me... you can imagine my reaction.  The good thing
was that my clients told me not to be gentle with those if they 
realy are in the way... I let you guess the rest!  The rest of
the wedding went quite good, even if some of the P&S owners 
realy dislike me!  

This is a common problem and if some of you get married some day,
be sure to tell every one around to stay away from the photographer
you will avoid unplesant surprises and make the photographer's job
a lot easyier... the results are gonna be just better and it's his
job anyway!...

J.F.

--
atomas@geloser.login.qc.ca
Gentleman Loser System -- Montreal, Qc, Canada
Newsgroups: rec.photo