HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:22:18 GMT

fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky) writes:
: In article <1993Jan7.201506.25622@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
: >
: >If you have parallel ground screwdrivers, then the slotted head screws
: >are not bad. I agree that the wedge shaped flat grind screwdrivers are
: >a real pain.
: >
: Bill, try a robertson drive and then come back ant tell us what you
: think.  To anyone who has tried them, there is no comparison.

I have used them. I would rather use any screw that did not have a slotted 
head. However, if you must use one, then it helps tremendously to have a
decent set of screwdrivers.

Bill
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 00:06:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Chinese bar clamps
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

What is it about clamps, anyway?  It seems like you never have enough.
There are still times when I wish I had a few more during glue-up.
These clamps were so cheap I was skeptical, so first I bought just two. 

In light duty use, they worked fine, no slipping.  They bend, just like my
Jorgensen 37XX light bar clamps do.  I use them to hold things in position
during glue-up, with light clamping pressure.  I can only say that I check
each one for slip and have bought about 20 so far, all of which are fine 
for light clamping.  You would be wise to check each one before buying too.

These seem acceptable to me, but I found the pipe clamp clones useless.
For those, get the Jorgensens "Pony" series or other good brand.  

I would also caution against buying ANY edge tool made in mainland China.
The steel is usually no good, and wooden handles break.
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Where's Norm? (in NYC)
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:43:29 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Steven Bellovin writes:
>Sigh.  I just called up WNET -- through the end of February, at least,
>there's no sign of [New Yankee Workshop]  on the schedule.  Doesn't 
>look good...
>
>I have a call in to New Jersey Network (assorted UHF stations around the
>state -- if you hunt around, maybe you can pick one up, or maybe channel
>21).  And maybe I'll have to switch my membership to NJN, if I get the
>right answer...


Steve:

You might also try WNYC, UHF 31.  They are pretty good, carrying TOH and
Hometime, and I believe NYW in the past (I'm in Monmouth, so I probably
have the same reception as you - although I get WNYC via Storer Cable
chan 99, I can get it on my portable with judicious antenna alignment).

A really excellent PBS station is WLIW out of Long Island, as they carry
Woorwright's Shop and that new program (Woodshop or somesuch).  Sadly, I
can't pick them up.  The Connecticut station is pretty good, as is the
Philly one.  If you live in an area with good reception, or have a real
good antenna, you might get one of these, and find Norm lurking around
on weekend afternoons...

BTW, I'm an NJN supporter and I didn't see anything in the January listings.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:39:43 GMT
Subject: Re: More antique planes
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

The value of old planes depends on condition and rarity, and how bad you
want them.  The Stanley 35 is a little smooth plane, value $20-40.  It should
have a handle that is not dinged at the end and its mouth should not have
been opened.  If it of a really early type, it's worth more if in good
condition (Colectors go bonkers for the really old ones in mint condition).

The other plane is likely a KeenCutter K24 jointer.  These are worth a little 
more, depending on condition.  Look for an intact handle, uncracked knob,
unpitted blade and breaker, uncracked body without too wide a mouth.
I bought a fairly ratty K22 last weekend for $30.  The nice thing about
these wood-body jointers is their lighter weight.  Heft a #7 or #8 for a 
while, it can be tiring.  That also makes them steadier, I'm told.  

Two references:
Antique Tools, A Collector's Guide to Value, by Barlow.
Restoring and Using Classic Woodworking Tools, by Michael Dunbar.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brooksby@brigham.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Glen W Brooksby)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Mason/Sullivan Clocks?
Date: 4 Jan 93 15:33:59 GMT
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center

Last week I decided to dust off my tools and attempt another
woodworking project, this time a Mason/Sullivan Clock.  I
soon found out that Mason/Sullivan has been acquired by WoodCraft.
Apparently the acquisition in not yet complete and in the mean
time they aren't able to sell me any plans.

I have 2 questions:

	1.  Does anyone have experience with Mason/Sullivan
	clock kits or plans?  Are they good quality?

	2.  Since I can't buy plans for a while from Mason/Sullivan
	does anyone have a set of plans from them that they are
	willing to part with?  Or can anyone refer me to a good
	source of plans?  I'm looking for small wall clocks like
	the Mason/Sullivan Newbury Wall Clock.  I'm NOT looking for
	floor clocks.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Glen B.
From: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Date: 12 Jan 93 03:42:40 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article 64770035@hpcss01.cup.hp.com, markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams) writes:
>Another option is a carbide coated blade, available from the infamous
>Grizzley Imports and others.  They cost more than bimetal, but are 
>supposedly even better for resawing.
>
>You also need lots of power, and few teeth per inch.  Duginski recommends
>3 TPI on a skip hook raker blade.  Garrett Wade sells them, among others.

I got mine a 1/2 in 3 tooth carbide blade from highland hardware for somewhere 
around $30.   Forgot the exact name of it but it works great on my 16".  The 
Highland Hardware folks are good people to buy from.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Changing table (Re: Baby furniture plans)
Date: 12 Jan 93 23:36:16 GMT
Organization: OSF Research Institute


   I would like to make a changing table... Just looking for a flat
   surface with some storage underneath it....

Before I got more seriously interested in woodworking, I made a simple
changing table which turned out to be VERY practical (although ugly).
The critical design factors were:

1) baby lies front-to-back, not side-to-side (very small people may
   find that this doesn't work for them, though);

2) padded surfaces wherever there's a danger;

3) wipes, diapers, and lotion easy to get at;

4) perfectly stable;

5) easy to clean.

The design was simply a slab of melamine board (easy to clean) with
three vertical walls sticking up from it (attached using glue and
particleboard screws--be sure to drill pilot holes).  The board was
attached to walls on two sides with angle brackets (this makes it
extremely stable), and had one leg in the other corner (cantilevering
would be more elegant, but this way you don't have to depend on the
pull-out strength of your wall attachment points).  I left some space
between the side board and the wall for supplies.  I wrapped the tops
of the walls with foam insulation (the kind you use on hot water
pipes) as padding, and glued it down.  Dimensions were determined by a
pad we got from a baby store (a foam thing with bolsters on three
sides, wrapped in plastic).  Height is very critical.  The top of the
pad should be only an inch or two below the elbow height of the
shortest person who often changes the baby.  This may seem very high,
but it saves a lot of wear and tear on your back!

Note that there are no drawers, etc.  We bought a drawer unit from
Ikea for $20 or so and stuck it underneath.  After all, the changing
table has a relatively short useful lifetime, while drawers are always
useful.

Cost: peanuts.  Difficulty: easy.  Quality: Poor aesthetically, but
excellent functionally.
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 6 Jan 93 22:07:18 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

I wrote..
> In article <STEVEO.93Jan6134048@custard.think.com>, steveo@custard.think.com (stephen anthony) writes:
> > I read in Roger Cliffe's table saw book about a simple jig for ripping
> > narrow widths. Take some scrap 3/4" plywood, make sure the two edges are
> > parallel and make a long notch in one edge. The stock sits in the notch and
> > you push the whole thing thru. Using the jig, the fence stays a few inches
> > away from the guard, allowing it to do it's job.
> > 
> > Crude Ascii:
> > 
> >     s
> >     t   +--------+
> >     o   |        |f
> >     c   |        |e
> >     k   |        |n
> >       +-+        |c
> >       |          |e
> >       +----------+
> 
> There's a variant that's useful -- attach a piece of wood vertically,
> between the notch and the blade.  Voila -- a built-in push handle.

Oops!  I meant between the notch and the fence, of course.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 9 Jan 1993 10:24:12 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Delta Radial Arm Saw Alignment

>Posted on 8 Jan 1993 at 20:09:48 by William Thomas
>
>
>made the unpleasent discovery that radial arm saws don't
>stay in alignment nearly as well as table saws.
>
>I would like to know from the readers an easy way to set the
>vertical aligment of the saw to 90 degrees, especially without
>havingt to remove the blade guard. My problem is that there is
>slopp in the setting before you lock it in place and I would like
>to consistently set it at 90 degrees.
>bill thomas

Follow Jon Eakes' advice: use the end point of play.  That is, adjust the saw
so it cuts at 90 degrees when the motor is turned as far clockwise as possible
with the bevel locator pin engaged but the bevel lock disengaged.  You want
to use the clockwise end of the slop because the saw tends to twist clockwise
when cutting.

Jim Morgan
Brown University
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Robert Mingee <rmingee@convex.COM>
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Originator: rmingee@imagine.convex.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:03:10 GMT
Reply-To: rmingee@convex.COM (Robert Mingee)
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.


Just another data point:

If you're just looking for the 2 pc set of minis, and will have to pay shipping,
(if your order is not > $50) you can get them for only $0.82 more (and that's
with the really high 8.25% sales tax here) at Home Depot.  They also carried
the single larger sizes, but the prices didn't seem as comparable.

-- robert
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Mingee		 |     "The problem with the future is that it keeps
CONVEX Computer Corp.    |	turning into the present"  -- Hobbes
rmingee@convex.com	 |              
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: How to use waterstone?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:54:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <burnard-110193110830@kip-39.taligent.com>, burnard@taligent.com (Dave Burnard) writes:
> Stone Selection: 1000/6000 is quite a jump if you are really going for a
> razor edge. It will take a lot of polishing to get out the scratches left
> by the 1000 grit stone. Unfortunately there aren't many types of stones in
> between.

I seem to recall reading of some technique to let one stone do the
work of two.  If I recall correctly -- and I'm sure someone will tell
me if I don't -- towards the end of the use of each stone, you *don't*
clean the slurry off the surface.  The broken-off pieces of the stone
act as a finer grit, acting as an intermediate stone.
From: rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 01:22:54 GMT
Subject: Re: Comments on fold-up outfeed tables for Table Saws
Organization: Hewlett Packard CPCD, Sunnyvale CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I consider the outfeed table on a table saw to be a necessity.  It is dangerous
to have parts falling off the back uncontrolled as well as damaging to small
pieces of stock hitting the concrete.  I am surprised there is not more talk
about something so useful & basic.

I too have a Unisaw an I built a hinged table made out of plywood and masonite.
The saw is on a homebuilt base with wheels so I could fold the outfeed table
down and move the whole deal around.  The table had some adjustable feet so
to compensate for surfaces which aren't flat.  I am going to build another
table soon which will be mo betta.  Here is what I learned from my first design:
    
       * Use a formica top, it provides a durable and most important, a low
	 friction surface.
       * You have to cut slots in the table to allow for the miter guage
	 bar to extend into the outfeed table as you make a crosscut.
       * Allow for fine adjustment of the table so it can be adjusted to
	 be flat in the same plane as the top of your saw.
       * You may want to allow for a different fence system to be added in
	 the future if you already have not done so.
       * You may want to build the outfeed table in combination with a 
	 side table for a new fence (e.g., Unifence or other).  Maybe
	 make them an integrated unit?



 
 
 Good luck!
 Rob


  
 

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: nickn@eskimo.com (Nick Nussbaum)
Subject: Re: Looking for lettering ideas for a refinishing project.
Organization: >>> Eskimo North (206)-FOR-EVER <<<
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 04:04:25 GMT


More about the colored films...
I'm going to have to give you manufacturer's names from memory alas...
There are three versions that I've seen;
One is relatively small sheets of the material which are supposed to be
used with a small tacking iron like device which provides the heat
for transfer. This is available at large art stores. I think it's being
sold by Letraset.
A second is a special motorized roller heat device. You feed the film
and the copy in together and the heat transfers. I believe this is
marketed by Gestetner. I've seen it at printing/computer trade shows.
The third version uses the copier as the heat source. You take an
already copied sheet and using sticky stuff, place pieces of film over
the areas to be colored. You then feed the whole thing back through the
laser copier which is set to print a blank page. The toner fuser heating
assembly does the trick.
In all of these, a wide variety of colors and metallics are available.
These work on regular black and white xerographic copies. The heat is
picked up by the toner and ignored by the paper and the chemical layer
of the film is transferred over the foil.
I'll try and get some manufacturer's names. The one that uses the copier
is available from some of the mail order companies that specialize in
fancy paper stock for laser printers.
-- 
Nick Nussbaum		nickn@eskimo.com	PO 4738 Seattle,WA 98104
From: bwm@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Bruce Melvin)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 21:04:44 GMT
Subject: Re: dust-collecting sander
Organization: HP Roseville Networks Division
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

If you look back through Consumer Reports you will find that they recently 
(within a year) rated various vibrational sanders.  What you seek may
be there.


From: peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:43:09 GMT
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking



would the kinly soul from the HP Fort Collins plant call/e-mail
back re visiting the Griz 6" Jointer.  Had some phone-mail
problems...
    thanks, Peter
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:05:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I confess to having done the same thing and resolved not to repeat it.
For one thing, the blade is too close to the rip fence and could touch
it.  Use an auxiliary wood fence on the rip fence.  Second, don't trap
the waste between the rip fence and the workpiece.  If it
gets caught, the piece could be launched.  (But if you use a dado blade,
the waste ejected as sawdust, so you can cut with the waste nearer the
auxiliary wooden fence.)

There are several ways to make tenons, of course.  You can choose the one 
you like.  You can use a regular blade, dado set or a router.  To hold the
piece vertical, a tenoning jig is most helpful and easy to build. 
They can either ride on the rip fence or in a slot on the table.  Incidentally,
some people like to make the cheek cut first, and some the shoulder cut first.
You pick.

If you are making a lot of tenons of the same size, consider a dual saw blade
with spacers between the blades the width of the tenon.  Cut both cheeks at 
once.  Use a tenoning jig too.

A dado set will speed things up.  Use it to cut the cheeks all around.  With
most dadoes, you will still have clean up the shoulders with a second set of
cuts.  I'm told you don't have to with the Forrest dado, its cuts flat.  I
would love to have someone confirm this.  The Forrest set is dear ($250), 
while a cheap Sears/Vermont American chipper dado set is under $40.

A router can also be used to make the tenons, and there is a whole new 
class of methods and jigs for this purpose.  A router cuts the shoulders
cleaner, if you get the setup right.  I generally count on a little cleanup
with a shoulder plane or chisel, so using a dado set is OK.

Good Luck!
From: plishka@wurzburg.cs.uofs.edu (Rich Plishka)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: squiblet flurbigator
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:28:29 GMT
Organization: Department of Computing Sciences

In article <1993Jan11.185653.2426@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com>, stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn) writes:
|> I know this is dumb but all I know about these squiblet flurbigator's
|> is that UPS woun't ship them.


NOT TRUE!!  Contact the Specialized Commercial division of UPS (SCUPS).. They may
require packing to include bantium dessicant to stabilize the effect of the
reverse osmosis packing material; but they should be able to ship a flurbigator.

Expect charges to be in the $15-20/cubic diameter range.

rich
From: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to cut a half heart shape?
Date: 9 Jan 93 04:14:47 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article Iu3@plato.ds.boeing.com, simnet@plato.ds.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
                     /    |
> I've never
>seen router bits that cut a heart shape or even a sphere. Anyone have a
>better idea?
>

Router bits spin in circles, so whatever the profile, it will be mirrored on both
sides.  Your heart shape can't be cut by the normal methods for which you have 
already figured out a good solution:

>The only way I've come up with so far is to use a half inch straight bit and
>then a half inch core box (the rounded tip bit) with the stock tilted 60
>degrees in a router table.

Since your ascii graphics could never do the original justice i'm just guessing that
you may have better luck with a "european drawer pull" bit using your stock tilt 
trick.  
The Eagle America catalog has a great picture of this.... Good luck.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ole@delab.sintef.no (Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Simple problem, solution needed
Date: 8 Jan 93 07:49:06 GMT
Organization: SINTEF DELAB, Trondheim, Norway.

What about an electric miter saw? With a good blade you should get a
clean cut. These saws are not terribly expensive. Also, you can cut a
2x4 if you need to. (Depending on the size of the saw, of course) A
RAS could do the job just as well, but is definitely ovekill if you do
not intend to use it for anything else.
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:55:06 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <26330023@hpcvra.cv.hp.com>, johna@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (John Allen) writes:
> 
> Keep these posts coming.  They really help me to maintain caution/fear in
> my shop, especially to not get in a hurry.

Actually, the mantra I repeat to myself while working is "There's always time
to shut the tool off."  My partner, Wonder Woman, agrees.  I note that
you really have to be determined to cut off your fingers when the blade
is not rotating.

Also, the deliberate act of turning off a machine and waiting for rundown
fosters a more deliberate approach to setups.  Some of the accidents reported
were partly caused by shortcuts in setting up restraints or guards.  If you
school yourself to wait, it spills over into planning tool usage because
each cut or usage is terminated by a period of deliberation.  What else can
you do while waiting but think?

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Eye protection
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 00:36:29 GMT

I do not have myopia to your extent, but if you can wear contacts for that
problem, you might want to try grinder's goggles for the eye protection.
Mine have thick round flat safety glass lenses in eyepieces that each
completely surround the eye with a fine wire mesh between the part that holds
the glass and the part that sits on the face. I bought mine at Sears many
years ago. The screen keeps most all of the dust out, but lets sweat out
so fogging is not really a problem. I think that the heat of grinding leads
to grinders sweating more than woodworkers. There are various slimes that one
can put on the glass to prevent fogging if it is still a problem. The glass 
lenses are easily removable for complete cleaning. In many years of being
tossed about, they have never developed a scratch.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU