HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: don@tellabs.com (Donald Leonard)
Subject: 2nd, Beginner help request
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:15:36 GMT

Again... could someone PLEASE post or email me the latest beginners.z file.
I don't have access to any off site servers. I've tried the suggestions 
in brew.faq about email to the appropriate site with HELP as the text. 
Nothing has worked.

If you think of any other files that may be of interest to
me... I'd appriciate you mailing them also.

I've also tried email with help as the text to listserv@sierra.stanford.edu 
and archive-server@wang.com without any luck. Listserv does`ent
seem to be there anymore and I've never gotten any response from
archive-server.
Surely someone has a minute between batches to give me a hand --
I'm getting thirsty just thinking about it!!!

thanks
don

-- 

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Donald T. Leonard	|Honda Sabre	| "Bumpy trails? 
don@tellabs.com		|		|  Don't get mad get rad!"
..!uunet!tellab5!don	|Indy 650	|
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: upfv@pool.sunyit.edu (Paul Vieira)
Subject: Is there utility for spend grains?
Organization: State University of New York -- Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 14:42:09 GMT

	I've been brewing lately with combination dry malt and 
grains. I'm not prepared (no time) to embark on full grain brewing
for a little while at least. I use about 3 - 4 LBS dry with about
2 - 3 LBS grains. I let the grains steep for about 1 - 2 hours and
sparge well. A fellow brewer colleague asked me a question which I'll
pose to the brewer community. I can't seem to find any reference in
Papazian's book. 
	The question is: "is there any advantage/disadvantage in
including the spent bag of grains in the wort during fermentation?".
If I eliminate the sparge and let the cooked grains ferment right
with the rest of the wort, can I capture additional flavor or could
I introduce unwanted characteristics to the wort? 
	When I brew and care to impart a particular flavor to my
beer (cherry, orange, cinnamon stick, various spices, etc.) I
always include it in the ferment (after its been cooked) to
extract the full flavor. I would like to know if grains can be
included in this line of reasoning, since the purpose of my using
partial grains in the process is really to acquire some "grain brew"
characteristics. .

	Comments, anyone? Anyone have experience with this?
Thanx in advance... 

Paul 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 05:51:36 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

This was sent mistakenly by mail to the author and I am reposting it so
please excuse the >>>>>>

 -> Well, now that we seem to have exhausted the fun of beating up on the
-> messenger, be nice to get a discussion going on the subject.  Just for
-> a comparison, I loaded the article into the Compu$serve library and mig
-> as well have been uploaded to the moon.  Not a single comment.  Not eve
-> shot at the messenger.
->
-> Profit motives aside, and there is little indeed the the EASYMASHER, my
-> real motivation is to get people over the hangup of thinking that there
-> is something esoteric and spooky about all grain beer.  I have tried to
-> come up with an approach that is a natural transition from extract and
-> not a bunch of wierd equipment and mysterious processes.
->
-> I am sure extract sources don't much appreciate my crusade but malt
->
-> mill sources probably do.
->
->
js

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: it ain't poison!
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:44:32 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.170411.2642@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
 gburton@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Garland O Burton) writes:

>at 4-7 days after bottling the brew was undercarbonated and sweet.
>
>i brought the bottles out of the too cold basement (53F) and let 'em 
>set at 60-65F for a few days.  
>
>now the carbonation is right, and the taste is somewhat sour, but good.
>
>will the sourness mellow with time, or get worse?  why?

A major problem with this type of interaction is that we don't really know 
what you consider to be sour.  OTOH, I don't know of any reason your recipe 
would have *any* sourness to it except for an infection.  Infections just 
get worse over time, since they are due to a live organism.

>i am the one who mentioned having the 53F basement and had to bring
>the secondary up to the 60-65 degree upstairs to get things happening
>faster.  what if i used lager yeast in my stout?  would it work better at 
>53 degrees?

It sure would.  I don't know if it would taste the way you want, though.
Why not make a dark lager?

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
Subject: Re: Source:  Where to get a large kettle?
Originator: bickham@msc2.msc.cornell.edu
Organization: Cornell-Materials-Science-Center
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 01:15:47 GMT

Also take into account the amount of liquid that boils off.  I need to
start out with 6.25-6.5 gallons of wort to get 5 gallons after boiling
and cooling.  I recommend at least an 8 gallon kettle.

Scott
From: zamick@brushfire.rutgers.edu (Jonny the Z)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Kegging Kit Fiasco :)
Keywords: Not so hot
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:15:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


Ok.... well I admit I made a silly assumption. Given that most
restaurants have a $10 or $15 deposit on their soda kegs I didn't
think it would cost much more for one... Oops

Anyway, this great deal I had found really wasn't. Of course,
everything in it is completely new. It includes tap, fittings, 5gal
keg (nice type with depressure ring), lines, 5lb CO2, and 2gauge high
pressure regulator. Of course, the down side is it costs about $190
for it. I got to go over the prices, he really isn't making that much
off it, guess prices are higher in NJ. 

(Side note... from what people have mailed me... It seems that you
should be careful when places say new Gauges, often these are just
reconditioned gauges with new parts.)

So for a totally new package this might not be bad, especially for NJ
folk who can pick it up and avoid shipping.

Sorry for the let down there.... However

The same guy can provide: Cold Plates with insulation for the tubing
leading to your faucet for $30. (They are currently refitting their
clients with multi valve cold plates, so these single valve which are
great for homebrewers may be just perfect).

(A wierd thought, but you should also be able to use these things as
wort chillers.... hmm)

So perhaps the negotiations weren't a complete loss.

The number for the place is:(908) 753-8880
The name is: Somerset Service Team
and ask for: Michael Curci (Service Manager)

------------------

Ok.. now back to kegging kits. I was sent the name and number of a
place in Tennessee which seems to deal with reconditioned parts and at
a much less expensive price. The number is (800) 284-9410 and the
name of the place is BCI (Bev-Con International). Thanks to both Jay
Marshall and Todd Byler for this info.

Jon Zamick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jchokey@leland.Stanford.EDU (James Alexander Chokey)
Subject: Switching lager and ale yeasts
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 08:56:16 GMT

	This question might be obvious to some but it's not to me.  If you
take a lager recipe and use an ale yeast or vice versa, how different does
the beer come out.  If, for instance, I tried brewing a stout with a lager
yeast or a pilsner with an ale yeast, how different would the final taste
of the beer be.  Obviously, it will still be beer that will probably be
quite tasty.  But would that stout be recognizable as a stout, or what it
seem to be more like a dopplebock or something like that?

	--  Jim C. <jchokey@leland.stanford.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: walker@main.mndly.umn.edu (TIM WALKER)
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Organization: the Minnesota Daily (U of MN Student Newspaper)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 23:03:06 GMT

In article <C0Guw1.CH5@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:

>In article <walker.36@main.mndly.umn.edu> walker@main.mndly.umn.edu (TIM WALKER) writes:
>>In article <C0Fu2I.In7@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>>
>>
>>>This article was rejected by Zymurgy's editorial department for some
>>>obscure reason, so I will post it here.
>>
>>> 
>>>                           KETTLE MASHING
>>> 
>>>                          By Jack Schmidling
>>
>>(Most of article deleted, save for the excerpt below.) 
>>
>>Jack, I think I found the "obscure reason." It's this paragraph you wrote:
>>
>>> 
>>> All the parts are available at a good hardware store.  For 
>>> those not inclined to hunt down the parts, a complete kit is 
>>> available from the author.
>>>
>>
>>Personally, if I were an editor at Zymurgy, I would have run your piece, but 
>>I would have charged you full advertising rates for it. (Tim W.)


>You don't seem to have a very good handle on things.  The reason ones
>sends articles to editors is because they like to edit out things they do
>not like and they usually do not like most of what people send in.

>In this case, they decided to review the EASYMASHER as a new product instead
>of running the article.  Their reasoning for doing this is what is obscure
>not their reason for not running the article.

Well, being both an editor and a writer, I *do* think I have a handle on 
these things. In my profession, we draw a very distinct line between the 
advertisements in a publication and the articles in that publication. 
Regardless of the merits of your article, the paragraph pitching your kit 
should not have appeared in your piece, because it was a not-so-subtle way 
of soliciting people to buy your product. If I were an editor at 
Zymurgy and had recieved your submission, I still might have run your 
article, but only without the offending paragraph. Even so, I would attach a 
disclaimer to it at the top of the article to let readers know that the 
writer has a vested interest in this particular procedure. 

My point is this: advertising simply cannot be allowed to creep into the 
articles in a publication, as the reader must be assured that the content of 
the article is not in any way influenced by any hidden motives of the 
writer, in this case the promotion of a product. (An analogy: Would you 
trust the contents of a newpaper article about a new play in town if the 
author of the newspaper article was also the director of the play?) Without 
this separation of advertising and copy, the credibility of a publication is 
completely destroyed because its readers would have to continually wonder 
whether they are getting the straight dope or not.

Tim
From: hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca (Herb Peyerl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Date: 10 Jan 93 03:59:27 GMT
Organization: "NovAtel Communications Ltd. Calgary, Alberta, Canada"
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

TIM WALKER (walker@main.mndly.umn.edu) wrote:
: In article <C0Fu2I.In7@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:
: Jack, I think I found the "obscure reason." It's this paragraph you wrote:
: > 
: > All the parts are available at a good hardware store.  For 
: > those not inclined to hunt down the parts, a complete kit is 
: > available from the author.
: >
: Personally, if I were an editor at Zymurgy, I would have run your piece, but 
: I would have charged you full advertising rates for it. (Tim W.)

Sorry for picking nits here... If you take a quick peek in the Zymurgy
special issue on Yeast (Vol 12, No. 4) (I'm presuming everyone has this
issue... I consider it extremely valuable) on page 33 you'll see part
of an article written by Paul Farnsworth.  Under the heading "Master
Culture", you'll see a paragraph that starts:

	"You must start with a clean, pure culture of yeast.  You
	can buy these from the author (see address at end of article)."

I remembered having seen something like this in a Special issue before
and it took me a few minutes to find it again, but I knew it was there.
I don't think Jack was out of line for mentioning that he would supply
parts... 

Whatever... Just thought I'd mention it... Personally, I appreciate the
articles Jack writes not because I don't already know how to do the 
things he writes about, but because I'm interested in seeing how other
people brew their beer.  I learned more by watching a fellow club 
member brew an all grain batch than I have by reading ANY of the books
and Special issues... 

In fact, I'd like to see more articles of people describing the equipment 
they use...  I'm just in the process of re-building my brewery from top
down and have picked up a lot of great ideas from these hallowed halls.

Back to your regularly scheduled reading...
-- 
"I was early to finish | hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca <Reply-To>   | I brew |
I was late to start, I | peyerlh@cuugnet.cuug.ab.ca             | there- | 
might be an adult, but | #define JANITOR "Network Administrator"| fore I | 
I'm a minor at heart." |    JANITOR, NovAtel Communications Ltd.|   AM.  |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Cranberry Beer???
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 20:51:31 GMT

In article <1992Dec31.013545.14647@crash>
 jsawyer@crash.cts.com (John Sawyer) writes:

>He wants for his beer to go cranberry.  (Actually, I think his "Total"
>beer--100% of the USRDA of 8 essential vitamins Beer is a better idea).
>The question is:  How/when and how much does one go adding fruit to a 
>brew?  His goal is to add a cranberry bite to something like a light lager.
>	Any ideas and suggestions would be welcome...

Well, after much discussion with other people and lots of experience and 
good theory, last week I would have said:

Dump a bunch of cranberries in the secondary, say 7 lbs. worth and leave 
them there a week or so.

However, I just found some 1-2 year old bottles of my raspberry ale and it 
is still very raspberry in aroma and taste.  How did I add raspberries to 
it?  I froze fresh raspberries overnight and tossed them into the hot wort 
after taking it off the heat, cooled further, then tossed *everything* into 
the primary and racked off the stuff into the secondary a few days later.

My next experiment will be to freeze fresh fruit overnight, then toss into 
the secondary (maybe heating it up a little first), then leave two weeks and 
see what happens.

I don't think the "food processor" or "syrup" approach works as well as 
whole fruit slightly damaged by freezing, but we'll see.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: lsmith@deci.cs.umn.edu (Lance "Squiddie" Smith)
Subject: Re: Beer at Sporting Events ...
Organization: The Little Squids of the Poor
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 02:41:57 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.230219.28143@mmm.serc.3m.com> us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi) writes:
>> 
>> The Kingdome serves Redhook ESB (Redhook Microbrewry)
>> I was wondering if any of the other major Sporting Stadiums had good 
>> beer on tap... 
>
>Oh you know how to hurt a guy.  

Yeah really. Redhook? Gee, I think we have a choice of Landmark, Coors, 
Strohs and Bud. 

>At the metrodome in Mpls:  3.2 Strohs in wax cups for way too much.
>
>aaaaarrrggggggghhhhhhh.  I don't go there to drink.

You couldn't afford to. The only reason to drink at the Dome is a chance to
talk to Wally the Beerman. (I even have his trading card somewhere.)

I wonder if we can convince the St Paul Saints to serve Summit Great Northern
Porter at Municipal Stadium.

---------------------------
 Lance "Cr2O3.2H2O" Smith | "Only as the screams and scratching slowly faded
   (lsmith@cs.umn.edu)    |  did we realize the horrible truth. The peanut had 
   If looks could kill    |  not been dead! We had accidentally vacuum-packed
   they probably will     |  him alive!"   _The Fall of the House of Planter_
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: howland@noc2.arc.nasa.gov (Curt Howland)
Subject: Re: how to age mead & melomels?
Organization: NASA Science Internet Project Office
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 07:43:55 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.160333.2213@advtech.uswest.com>, 
mgooley@advtech.uswest.com (Mark. Gooley) writes:
|> In article <1993Jan2.165550.5811@novatel.cuc.ab.ca> hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca (Herb Peyerl) writes:

|> >O.G was also about 1.080 but F.G. was 1.010... 
|> 
|> Most interesting!  With a cup of lemon juice (reconstituted -- penny-wise,
|> pound-foolish of me) in a 5-gallon batch, I made a batch that went from
|> 1.080 down to 0.997.  A minimalist mead (honey, water, nutrients, yeast)
|> started at 1.105, after 3 weeks was down to 1.070, and is still going
|> slowly.

The reason mead takes so long without adding stuff is 'cause 
honey has few trace elements for the yeast to build on. Adding
the reconstipated just acidized and added some nutrients, just
what the yeasty-beasties need to thrive. My first batch was a
control, just 12lbs honey in ~4.5 gal water, and 2 envelopes of
champagne yeast. Took 2.5 months to clear, but the fg=1.010 and
it's quite tasty if somewhat *young* at the moment. :^>

The next batch will have ginger and lemon in it, I've got to
try it as it seems quite popular.

---
Curt Howland        howland@nsipo.nasa.gov 
NSI Operations Center      NASA Ames
(800) 424-9920
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: yavo@ivy.unisys.com (Steve Yavorski)
Subject: First Batch - I need some advice
Organization: Paramax Systems, Ivyland, PA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 15:51:26 GMT

My first batch has been fermenting for about 4 days now and I have a few
questions.  The hydrometer which came with my kit is not in a Specific
Gravity scale.  It is labeled a "Mash and Brew Tester at 70 degrees" and
has two scales, one labeled a balling scale, and one labeled a percent
scale.  The balling scale runs from 0 at the top to 20 at the bottom.
The percent scale has a W at the top, then a B, then goes from 1/2 % to
10 %. (see diagram)

		0	W
		-	B
		---------	red line (labeled bottle @ red line)
		-	1/2%
		-	-
		5	2%
		-	-
		-	3%
		-	-
		-	4%
		10	-
		-	-
		-	-
		-	-
		-	-
		15	-
		-	-
		-	-
		-	-
		-	10%
		20	

One person I asked said that the balling scale is actually another scale
which I won't try to spell (phonetically bo-may).  I'll call this B.  He
told me the conversion at 60 degrees is this equation.

	S.G. = 140 / (B + 130)

Would anyone on the net know the conversion at 70 degrees?  Does the
percent scale stand for percent alcohol?  Would someone be able to explain
the use of the hydrometer to me in more detail, along with the scaling?

My Original Gravity reading was an 8 on the balling scale at 70 degrees,
which converts to 1.014 S.G. based on the above equation.  Would the
difference of 10 degrees in the conversion make that much difference?

I am making mouton&fouson american light, and I followed the standard
directions with the 3lb can of hopped malt, corn sugar, and yeast.  If
this reading of O.G. is low, was the mixture not Mixed enough?  I was a
little worried about that at the start.  Initial fermenting has seemed
fine, with a good amount of bubbling out the vapor lock.  What would the
effects be of stirring up the solution at this point, or when I go to
take my first final gravity reading?  If I let it settle before I rack
to the priming fermenter, will that be ok?  Also, what are the effects
of the oxygen that gets into the primary fermenter when you take the
gravity readings?

Thanks for any help and net wisdom y'all can provide.

Steve

Stephen Yavorski			internet - yavo@ivy.paramax.com
NEXRAD Integration			phone    - (215) 443 - 7500
Paramax Systems Corporation
Ivyland, Pennsylvania
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi)
Subject: Re: Beer at Sporting Events ...
Organization: 3M - St. Paul, MN  55144-1000 US
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 23:02:19 GMT

> 
> Since we seem to be talking about alot of unrelated topics besides brewing.
> I just finished purchasing season tickets for the Seattle Mariners Baseball
> games with a group of people, and was thinking back to the best part
> of the 1992 season. The Kingdome serves Redhook ESB (Redhook Microbrewry)
> I was wondering if any of the other major Sporting Stadiums had good 
> beer on tap... 

Oh you know how to hurt a guy.  

At the metrodome in Mpls:  3.2 Strohs in wax cups for way too much.

aaaaarrrggggggghhhhhhh.  I don't go there to drink.

but lets move this to alt.beer
-- 
........................................................................
Steve Anastasi	        "Give a man a fish, and you can feed him for
smanastasi@mmm.com       a day.  Teach him to fish and you can tax him!"
St. Paul, Minnesota                 - hey, I wrote it!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rak@moliere.uucp (Robert Kelen)
Subject: Recipe for U FLEKU beer?
Summary: Looking for a recipe for U FLEKU, or U FLEKU-type beer
Keywords: recipe Czechoslovakia (Czech Republic) awesome beer help
Organization: Lilydale DFL Refreshments Committee & Rhythm Section
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:49:16 GMT

Hi.

The best beer I've ever tasted was the unique, yet awesome brew I was
served at the U Fleku brewpub in Prague. I can't really describe it, but
I can surely recommend it. The trip to Prague would be worth it just for
this beer. They don't bottle it, and I've never tasted another like it.

I was just wondering if anyone out there had any clues on how to
recreate it at home.

Thanks much.

-Robert
--
moliere!rak@uunet.uu.net
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: All Grain brew
Date: 5 Jan 93 14:28:57 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <726198371.AA00000@therose.pdx.com>, Larry.Lund@p12.f79.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Larry Lund) writes:
> Hello all!
> I brewed a very simple all grain brew today and having a problem and don't
> know why. I have always been a extract brewer and this was my 1st try. the
> ingrediants are as follows.
> 
> 7lbs of 2row malted barley
> 1 1/2oz of cascade hops.
> 5 gal water
> 1pkg bavarian wyeast
> 
> mashed in with 2 gal water and held at 126 degrees for 30min raised temp to
> 144 degrees held for 30 min then raised to 158 and kept it there for 1 1/2 hr.
> Then I sparged with 160 degree water 3 times then put back in the kettle and
> brought to a boil for 1 hr. Then I added the hops and continued another hr.
> then I slowly poured the wert back thru the spent grains one last time and
> added abt 3 gals of water thru the grains to make a total of 5 gals. But when
> I check the S.G. it was only 1.020 What happened? Where did I go wrong?? Sign
> me perplexed! 8-(
> 
> Larry
> N7LBP @ W0RLI.or


	I myself am a little perplexed by your procedure.  Usually when 
sparging one recirculates the liquid a few times to establish a grain bed, 
then the sparge water is added slowly as liquid is drawn off the bottom.  
Once all the liquid is drained, the grains are discarded, and all the liquid
is boiled.  I am puzzled why you filtered the boiled beer back through the
grains?  Still, 1020 is low.  Did you take the sample from the top of the
carboy?  Was the liquid sufficiently mixed?  Sometimes the heavy sugar-laden
liquid sinks, and the the thinner liquid sits on top, so you don't get an 
acurate reading.  I would re-think the sparge technique for the next batch,
though.


	Ed

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing