HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Subject: Re: Electrostatic Air filters. Do they work?
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
Organization: BNR
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:35:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.004516.17088@scic.intel.com>, venkat@scic.intel.com
(Venkat Iyer) wrote:
> 
> I saw some electrostatic air filters recently which claim
> to use some material which builds up electrostatic charge 
> from the air flow; and this charge filters out the dust,
> pollen etc.  
> Do these work well?  The ones I saw whistle when the dust
> reaches a certain point and then they can be cleaned and
> reused.  Can these filters be cleaned adequately?
> 
> Since these filters cost 50X the regular fiberglass filters,
> I am wondering if it is worth getting.
> 
> Please reply by e-mail since I don't read this newsgroup often.
> 
> 
> -- 
>       Venkat  Iyer - SCIC - Intel Corporation        


Please post responses on this one (or copy me!).  I broke down and bouught
them after being told my kids have some alergies aggravated by dust.  I
found some a lot cheaper than those advertised on the radio (Paul Harvey
etc. for the low low price of $60 if you mention the advertisement).  The
ones I got were more like $25 although some assembly was required (one
filter is sold to fit all sizes, so you have to cut and assemble it
according to the size you need).  Quite a savings for the 3 that I needed
for my house.

Which brings up my question.  Are they all the same (as I suspect)?  As far
as I can tell, they all use multiple layers of foam that develop static
charges as the air moves across them. 

As for me, the dust seems to be way down in the house, based entirely on
the rate at which it accumulates on the furniture.  Alergies seem better
too although it could be any of a number of other things to account for
that.

dam
==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: HELP! electrical problem
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 23:59:46 GMT

In article <BIRCSAK.93Jan25165914@cmpass.mps.mlo.dec.com> bircsak@cmpass.mps.mlo.dec.com (John Bircsak) writes:
>
>Yesterday evening we noticed that the lights were periodically
>flickering.  Not on and off, but a single slight dim/return to full
>every once in a while.  Went to check the fuse box, and when I walked
>into the garage immediately noticed a burned/electrical smell (like
>when a fuse blows).  None of the fuses were blown, however.  I looked
>around in the attic for gnawed on wiring but found none.

Run, do not walk, back to that fuse box and remove every fuse one at a
time. If you pull one and nothing goes out, call an electrician.

If that tests out ok, remove the box cover and check the size of the wires
connected to each fuse (if you can). If you have any Romex cable in the
house, it will have the wire size stamped on the sheath (eg. 14/2). If you
find one, you can "eyeball" the gauge of the others.

You should not use a fuse higher than 15 amp with 14 gauge wire. You
shouldn't use a fuse higher than 20 amp with 12 gauge (the next larger
size). A 30 amp fuse whould only be used on 10 gauge or larger wire. If
any circuit has oversize fuses in it, replace them with the correct
size. If this causes fuses to blow, you indeed have too much on one
circuit.

If the fuses in your box are different colors (green, blue, etc.), then
they're probably "Fusstat" fuses. These almost certainly are the correct
size. If the fuses are glass, former owners may have "upgraded". If this
is the case, you're playing with fire - literally.

The last thing I can think of is to check the condition of the service
cable. It's bound to be old if you have a fuse box. Visually inspect
the insulation for cracks or rot. Check especially where it comes into
the house. Sounds to me like it's time to replace the service and box.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | You can't find the answers in the bottom of a
George Patterson -  | whiskey glass, but if you look hard enough, you'll
                    | forget the questions.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Bogus Pest Control Inspection
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 09:46:47 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

keith@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Keith Richards) writes:

> The damage is primarily from dry rot.  However the inspector that came
> in low claims the damage is all "superficial" and the guy that came in
> high (Clark Pest Control of Burlingame, CA) claims it is structural.
> Incidently a structural engineer came to the house and sided with the
> low inspector.  The high inspector had wild estimates for repair costs
> as well.  For instance he had a major bullet of $28,000 for replacing
> timbers in the basement.  The low inspector put in perspective by
> saying "... OK, let's give him $3000 for materials (plenty) and say
> he charges $500 labor per day (a lot).  That means he plans to spend
> 50 days doing work in our basement!!  Pretty outrageous.
> Unfortunately we are simply screwed by this crook.  Their appears to
> be no good solution.  He wins, we loose.  All I can say is it is a
> good thing I am a nonviolent individual.

Get yet another inspection, and if it comes in close to the low
one, file suit (or at the very least, complaints with the BBB and
whatever agency licenses the clown) to get it corrected.

Good luck...

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Sensing that remote pump motor is running
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 14:45:44 GMT

   My parents have a lifting station installed in their septic tank to raise
effulents to the level of the city sewers.  They have had some large
fluctuations in their electric bill lately, and suspect that the pump
may be the culprit.

   They would like a means to alert them that the pump is running.  The
circuit supplying the pump is accessible from the main distribution panel
in their home.  The pump is 110V, about 1/2 or 3/4 hp.  Basically I'm
looking for a simple way to turn on a light (flashlight buld or bigger)
when there is current flowing in the pump circuit.  Obviously something
that will not damage the pump, nor disable it if the detector fails.

   The local rep. from the power company suggest wiring a standard light
bulb in series.  My Dad wasn't sure it even worked, and I told him to
disconnect it, because I felt that the voltage drop might damage the
pump.  I've thought of a mini-transformer, a couple of power diodes pointing
in opposite directions (dropping about 1/2 V AC), a power transistor, etc.

   Any other ideas?  I'm an EE, but my parents live about 250 miles away,
so I'd like to keep the solution simple.  TIA.
-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 Moto and I disclaim       	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 everything in this post.	*
*********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird)
Subject: Re: Power and current
Keywords: Power and current
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: 24 Jan 93 14:53:57 GMT

clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:

>In article <laird.727847558@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu> laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird) writes:
>>Thus, current is found by dividing watts (VA) by voltage.  In this case,
>>850VA/110A=7.7A.

Great.  I write down all of my units and still screw them up.  Yes, that's
110_Volts_.  I definitely agree with the following, too, but was trying to
simply use the numbers given.

>Or 850/120=7A (120 is the nominal no-load voltage on a "110V circuit", or
>maybe even 850/125.  Remember that the voltage can vary by up to about 10%,
>so the plate rating should be relative to the highest permissible voltage
>on the line.  That being said, I'd personally call this 10A for circuit
>planning purposes.

>>No need to worry about start-up or overload surges either...

>Actually, there are start-up surges with resistive heating elements.
>Most resistive loads (lamps and heaters) exhibit a positive
>temperature:resistance coefficient.  That is, as the temperature goes
>up, the resistance goes up too.  The surge wouldn't be that large,
>not like a motor with startup surges of a factor of 3 or more, or
>an incandescent bulb where surge is probably on the order of a factor
>of 1.5 to 2.  But 30% isn't unreasonable - I wouldn't put a fast-blo
>8A fuse in series with that appliance...

Wow!  Good point!  I hadn't thought of that - and I've even used this
property in some designs.

This is why I post things like this - thanks for catching the errors!

Bottom line, though, is to think of it as a 10A device unless really
trying to calculate exactly (for private electric generation purposes).

--kyler
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dannyb@panix.com (Daniel Burstein)
Subject: Re: HELP! electrical problem
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 07:41:45 GMT

(tried emailing directly and something went wrong -out there-...)

From MAILER-DAEMON@sun.panix.com  Ukn Jan 27 00:14:35 1993
Received: by sun.Panix.Com id AA20717
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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 00:13:57 -0500
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON>
Message-Id: <199301270513.AA20717@sun.Panix.Com>
To: dannyb
Cc: Postmaster
Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 23:02:17 -0500
From: Daniel Burstein <dannyb>
Message-Id: <199301260402.AA10123@sun.Panix.Com>
To: bircsak@cmpass.mps.mlo.dec.com
Subject: Re: HELP! electrical problem
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house you write:


>Yesterday evening we noticed that the lights were periodically
>flickering.  Not on and off, but a single slight dim/return to full
>every once in a while.  Went to check the fuse box, and when I walked
>into the garage immediately noticed a burned/electrical smell (like
>when a fuse blows).  None of the fuses were blown, however.  I looked
>around in the attic for gnawed on wiring but found none.

>We have been so far unable to reproduce this or figure out what
>happened.  (And we no longer remember exactly what combination of
>lights/appliances was on at the time).

>Any hints? Is this an almost-blown fuse?  I suspect at least one of
>our circuits to have to much on it.  What should I look for?  Any
>hints at all would be greatly appreciated...

this is a symptom of a loose wire, usually near the circuit breaker/fuse
panel.  What happens is as follows:
  
   If there is a fairly heavy load on the circuit and the wiring isn't
100% clamped down properly (i.e. original messup or wear and tear), it
will start to warm up.  this causes expansion, which leads to wire "creep"
(the wire under the screw expands, has no room to do so, and part of it
slips away).

  Next step:  load cuts down when you turn off a few appliances.  the wire
cools off and shrinks, so there is now some spacing between the wire and
the screw.

Next time current starts flowing you get arcs, and even more heating, plus
some pitting, etc.

So, to check this out, look very closely at the wires leading away from
the fuses.  check them for any looseness or pitting.

Oh, one more common possibnilty:  there was arcing between the fuse base
and the circuit panel.  to check this out, CAREFULLY unscrew the fuses,
inspect their bottoms, and look (VERY, VERY, carefully) at the point of
contact in the socket.

----------

there are lots of other possibilites, but these are probably the two most
common.

dannyb@panix.com


m
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: deans@netcom.com (Dean Samos)
Subject: Termites - how to get rid of
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 19:46:59 GMT

We have noticed that we have dry wood termite residue on a windowsil
of our house, along with evidence of previous damage in the hardwood
floors.  We had a couple of termite companies come out, and they both
recommend tenting and fumigating the entire house.

Does anyone know of any less radical solution that is effective in
ridding a house, or a portion of a house, of termites?

Also, what about the safety of the stuff they use to fumigate with?
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Electrostatic air filter source
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:00:33 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: BNR

I have had several requests as to where I bought electrostatic air filters
for around $25.

I bought my electrostatic air filters at a "Home Quarters" store.  
The one I bought required assembly as the components are (I 
assume) large enough to fit any size.  The frame is adjustable and 
you cut the filter materials to fit.

I have not seen this particular one elsewhere, the other sources I 
have seen have been $50 and up.  This includes "The Whistler" that 
someone mentioned ($49 at Builders Square).  I have also heard 
them advertised on at least two radio shows for the "low low price 
of $59 which is $20 off the normal price since you are dealing 
directly with the manufacturer.  Just mention to them that you 
heard it on this show."  Not an exact quote, but pretty close.  
One of the shows is Paul Harvey.

I think I still have one of the boxes if someone would like me to 
see if I can figure out the manufacturer.


==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bradley@mdd.comm.mot.com (Michael Bradley)
Subject: Re: What to caulk chimney flashing with?
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 00:36:04 GMT

In article <18143@umd5.umd.edu> bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams) writes:
>We have a few leaks around the metal flashing that joins our old brick
>chimney to the roof.  What's the best goop for re-caulking this kind of
>thing?  Silicone?  Roofing "tar" from the hardware store?  Some archane
>commercial stuff?  Any suggestions would be welcome.
>___________________________________
>William E. Williams, bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu
>Divison of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
>St. Mary's College of Maryland
>St. Mary's City, MD 20686

My personal favorite is spray autobody undercoating from your
local auto shop. Seals well and does not dry out rapidly.
And it doesnt get black sticky uyk on hands, tools, cloths etc 
the way toofing tar does.
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Buying a FSO?
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:27:00 GMT
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 22753@tessi.com, allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren) writes:
>
>	#3:  You as the buyer, making sure you aren't paying too much
>	     for a home.  A realtor can usually tell you pretty clearly
>	     if the house is overpriced for the area.

This is often true, but as always, be aware that the (traditional)
realtor is legally, morally, and ethically bound the the seller to get
the highest possible price for the property.  The realtor is paid a %
of the sale price, so it is in his own personal interest to sell the
house for the highest possible price.  Even a house your realtor tells
you is not overpriced may well be.  Check sales of like houses in the
area on your own.

>As far as the rest goes, a home inspection, roof inspection, etc. will
>still be the same for you as the potential buyer, and could actually be
>more beneficial going through the homeowner in that the homeowner *might*
>have money available that normally would be locked in to paying a
>realtor with.

The seller *will* have more money available that would otherwise go to
a realtor.  I would suggest a different strategy, negotiate for half
the would-be commission in further price reduction.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: battan@sequent.com (Jim Battan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: magnetic latch no longer magnetic
Date: 26 Jan 93 06:37:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1993Jan26.063722.9361
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

My shower door has two magnetic strips, one on the stop and one on
the door, each as tall as the door.  These come together when the
door is closed so that it sticks closed.  But over the last two
weeks the magnets have gradually lost their attraction for one
another and now they no longer latch on to each other, causing the
door to move freely.

I didn't know it was possible for magnets to lose their personality
like this.  Does anyone know causes/cures?  Please e-mail me and
I'll summarize in a couple of weeks.

-- 
Jim Battan - Sequent Computer Systems, Beaverton, OR
battan@sequent.com or uunet!sequent!battan
+1 503 578 5129
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:17262 misc.kids:33198
From: kellihmt@daisymae.crd.ge.com (Margaret T Kelliher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.kids
Subject: Re: Hot water too hot
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:38:04 GMT
Reply-To: kellihmt@daisymae.crd.ge.com (Margaret T Kelliher)
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center

I don't remember the name for this device; maybe someone else does.
There's a thingamajig you can put in the spout of your bathtub (and your
sinks) which will  shut off the water flow if the temperature exceeds the
given threshold.  We have one on the bathtub and it works very well
(sometimes too well for an adult who *wants* a hot bath!  We took
it off the shower faucet for that very reason, in fact.)

We received it as part of a safety program run by the county.  If 
noone recognizes my description, and I can find the box, I will
followup with the name of this thing.

Good luck,
Margaret Kelliher
kellihmt@crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: perley@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (Don Perley)
Subject: Re: glass vs. acrylic glazing
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 14:55:20 GMT

In article <1jlb1uINNhvi@ua.d.umn.edu> dcole@ua.d.umn.edu (david cole) writes:
>
>OK OK.  Various objections have been raised to screwing acrylic on the
>outside.  On to plan "B":
>
>would much prefer a single sheet.  Then I could hold the thing in place with
>the turning butterfly gizmos mentioned in another post and which I now
>remember :)  

If you can't use the butterfly gizmos directly on the plastic (need an oblong
hole?) there is another way to avoid wearing out your woodscrew holes.
You can get metal inserts that screw into a hole in the wood and themselves
have a machine threaded hole. Then you can insert and remove screws to
your heart's delight without wearing out the threads.  If you drill
holes in the plastic slightly oversize, that will allow for some
thermal expansion.

-don perley



-- 
perley@balltown.cma.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.kids
From: ed@odi.com (Ed Schwalenberg)
Subject: Re: Hot water too hot
Organization: Object Design, Inc.
  <JEFF.COOK.93Jan21165137@pigpen.FtCollinsCO.NCR.COM> <74269@cup.portal.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 16:36:16 GMT

In article <74269@cup.portal.com> Renee@cup.portal.com (Renee Linda Roberts) writes:
  Tell the landlord (or property cooperative leaders) to turn it down! It
  wastes energy, especially if it is over 140 degrees. Turning it down to
  120 will make it so it will take more than 5 minutes to sustain a burn,
  thereby also saving them from potential liability claims (If the energy
  idea doesn't work, the legal usually does).

The state/county/city/town health code may specify a minimum temperature;
dishwashers in the units may also require a minimum.
From: bradley@mdd.comm.mot.com (Michael Bradley)
Subject: Re: What to caulk chimney flashing with?
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 00:40:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.003604.20138@mdd.comm.mot.com> bradley@mdd.comm.mot.com (Michael Bradley) writes:
>In article <18143@umd5.umd.edu> bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams) writes:
>>We have a few leaks around the metal flashing that joins our old brick
>>chimney to the roof.  What's the best goop for re-caulking this kind of
>>thing?  Silicone?  Roofing "tar" from the hardware store?  Some archane
>>commercial stuff?  Any suggestions would be welcome.
>>___________________________________
>>William E. Williams, bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu
>>Divison of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
>>St. Mary's College of Maryland
>>St. Mary's City, MD 20686
>
>My personal favorite is spray autobody undercoating from your
>local auto shop. Seals well and does not dry out rapidly.
>And it doesnt get black sticky uyk on hands, tools, cloths etc 
>the way toofing tar does.
         ^^^^^^^
Also "roofing" 8-]
>
>


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: btwomey@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (William J. Twomey)
Subject: Re: Proper location of cold air returns
Organization: Attack Tribble Training
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 21:27:10 GMT

In article <30219@oasys.dt.navy.mil> peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson) writes:
>The question is that the cold air returns for both levels are
>located close the ceilings.  The heating vents are located on the
>walls about one foot from the floor.  From what I've seen before
>the cold air returns are mounted low to return the cold air which
>should be below the hot air.
>
>I'm thinking of installing the a return vent lower to the floor
>on both floors.  

I believe that the returns for heating are supposed to be high.
The furnace then heats the warmer air hotter than it would heat the
colder air.  Same thing with cooling, the returns are low so the
the AC cools the cold air colder than it would cool hot air.

So naturally you would ask, does heating the hotter air do a better
job than heating the cooler air?  I dunno.  But in a cool room,
I would rather sit near a warmer vent than a tepid one.
Same thinking during the cooling season.

The vents and returns returns seem to be located at opposites when
there are no other considerations made.

Bill Twomey
-- 
bt@violin.att.com
908 615 4162
From: keith@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Keith Richards)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:15:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Bogus Pest Control Inspection
Organization: HP Response Center Lab