HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: More on 3-phase power
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<Jul.24.14.16.48.1992.27570@pilot.njin.net>
	<1992Jul27.163432.6302@microsoft.com>
Date: 28 Jul 92 14:09:40

In article <1992Jul27.163432.6302@microsoft.com> stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:

   In article <Jul.24.14.16.48.1992.27570@pilot.njin.net>, ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
   > > If you turn off the converter when the current is crossing zero, then
   > > there should not be a significant transient introduced into the supply
   > > side.  A proper SCR or TRIAC controller would do that automatically.
   > 
   > Proper or not, a SCR or TRIAC can't shut off excpet at zero.

   OK, what's a SCR and a TRIAC?  What do the acronyms stand for, and 
   what electrical behavior do they exhibit? (I'm trying to get an 
   understanding of why one of these is benficial.)  Also, how are
   they wired into the 3-phase circuit?  Are they rated, like most
   other components, to handle 220V?

The following is simplified to save bandwidth (and my time :).

An SCR is a Silicon Controled Rectifier.  It is a diode that may be
turned on (but not off) by the application of a control signal.  Since
the diode,  when used with AC,  will turn itself off,  the control
signal can be used to adjust how much power is passed.  

A TRIAC, which doesn't stand for anything I remember, is essentially a
two way SCR.  I seem to remember TRIAC as the name given by the
inventing company.  Like an SCR, you turn it on with the control
signal, unlike an SCR, it works in both directions.

SCRs aren't used so much anymore for power control in favor of
TRIACs.  SCRs are still used for things like crowbar circuits which
prevent overcurrent and overvoltage conditions in power supplies.

SCRs and TRIACs are rated both in breakdown voltage (as with a 
diode) and in watts or KVA for power handling.

If you're interested I'd recommend a beginner's electronics book.  
If you haven't had basic physics,  and really understand electricity,
then I'd start with a basic electricity book.





--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: router vs shaper
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 23:39:29 GMT

This comes under the heading of "You probably know it already". But.

With all the discussion of routers versus shapers for raised panel work,
I'd like to point out the fact that simple raised panels can be easily cut
on either a radial arm saw or a table saw. By simple, I mean straight sided
angles here.

          __
         /  |
        /   |
       /    |
     _/     |
    |       |
    |       |
    |_      |
      \     |
       \    |
        \   |
         \__|

Making a plywood jig is recommended for doing this on table saws. You
say you want ogee cuts? Oh - never mind.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Better" is the enemy of "Good enough".
                    |                     Russian proverb.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Sleigh bed or pencil post bed plans wanted
Date: 28 Jul 92 13:04:50 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <1992Jul27.131315.18654@bmerh85.bnr.ca> mccormic@bnr.ca (Shawn McCormick) writes:
>The title says it all. I'm looking into building my own
>bed, either of the sleigh bed type or the pencil post type,

Ok, I give up.  Whats a sleigh bed?





-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Original_To:  JNET%"WOODWORK@IPFWVM"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 22 Jul 1992 09:38:00 EST
From:         PINKERRA@SNYCANVA.BITNET
Subject:      GRIZZLEY SATISFACTION

This  AM I've got fifty-nine messages ---I'm at # 28 and I guess before
I just delete all "WW" messages I'll make these comments:
I purchased from Grizzly a 16" bandsaw, a 10 " table saw, a drill press
a 6" jointer, a 1 1/2 hp shaper and a 12" planer.  Some of the tools
were a pita to put togather but not something an average person
couldn't do.   There service department were very helpful when
I had to call them on one occasion.   While there are better tools
on the market than EVERY ONE OF MINE, THERE ARE NO BETTER TOOLS
FOR THE MONEY!!!   If you are a user of Grizzly tools, I am
quite interested in what you have to say (GOOD OR BAD) but for
the life of me, I don't see how you can evaluate a tool unless you
have had experience with it.   Is it because some of you are in
academia that you still believe if you read it, it's true?   PLEASE,
give us a break!!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Subject: re:Grizzly Tale
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 18:25:46 GMT



                       Subject:                               Time:3:45
PM
  OFFICE MEMO          Posting 1
Date:7/27/92
This is in reply to 13949 Re: A Grizzly tale
=======================================================
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (Gary Preckshot)
>Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Distribution: 
Subject: Re: A Grizzly tale
Organization: LLNL

In article <110525@muvms3.bitnet>, rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM) writes:
> 
> My $.02 worth:
> 
> The guy's first letter to Grizzly was informative, but the second one
> wasn't. Sounds like he got a little miffed when Mr. Grizzly declined
> to implement the suggested changes in the way his business is
operated.
>
Not miffed, disappointed that he didn't discuss anything.
 
> It's easy to sit back and give merchants tips on how to improve their
> business, but, ultimately, it's up to the merchant whether or not
> these tips be actually put into practice, is it not?
> 
Absolutely.  Then it's up to the informed woodworker to buy it or not.
Is it not?

> The question is, do I (Mr. Consumer) want to pay someone at Grizzly
> to do some further fitting up of the machine I'm buying, or would I
> rather do those things myself and keep the money in my own pocket?
> 
> That's a question I should address to *myself*, not to Mr. Grizzly.
> 
Right!  And I wouldn't dream of trying to answer that question for you.


> I appreciate the information in the first letter, and, yes, it read
> quite well also. But I must take acception to being junked in, as
> a "net.user," on some individual's hate-mail campaign, as in the
second
> one.
> 
Perhaps you should re-read my posting very carefully.  I never suggested
that I knew what the netters' personal opinions were nor did I suggest
that they do anything but inform Mr. Grizzly of their, not my, opinions.
Also, I don't think there's anything in my postings that even suggests
hate-mail.  That's your interpretation.

> Once again, just my $.02.
> 
Let me give you a vote of confidence.  I think your opinions are worth
more than $.02.  $0.29 to be exact.

> 
> -- 
>       "Were his solid black square paintings really,
>       as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
>       compositions devoid of external references and
>       meanings?" ***********************************
> 
>
Why don't you send Mr. Grizzly a solid black letter?
 =========================================================
 posted on behalf of Gary Preskshot
-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Compressors & Air Tool opinions?
Date: 21 Jul 92 15:15:45 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

The Sanborne is made in Minnesota (or Wisconsin).  I can't remember.
I busted the valve on mine (no fault of theirs), and their customer
service wsa very helpful in locating a replacement (they found a
distributor locally that had them in stock.  Mine's a 1HP 2 gallon
one from price club.  I've been real happy with it.

-Ron
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
X-VMS-Cc: DSROBERTS
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 22 Jul 1992 13:21:35 -0800
Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECKMAN.COM
From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
Subject:      Re: rust prevention & cutting lattice
X-To:         WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU

>What kind of lubricant or light oil should I apply to my garden tools and saws,
>to keep them from rusting after use?  Should I use WD-40, or would a spray
>bottle with a light vegetable oil inside do the trick?

WD-40 works well for me.

>Also, does anyone have any hints for cutting wooden lattice to fit along the
>bottom of a deck--I'm afraid to use my circular saw, because of the nails in
>the lattice.  Should I just use a crosscut handsaw?

I use my circular saw.  Since it's not one of my "fine" woodworking tools, I'm
not overly concerned about the life and tuning of the blades, and the nails are
small and don't seem to cause real problems anyway.  I've been using the same
blade I used for lattice on the patio cover I'm now building, and it still
seems fine.

Don
From: cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Andrew M. Cohill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Corian tops for router tables
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:46:05 GMT
Organization: Fire in the Mountain

I have not had much luck finding cheap Corian cutouts.  One cabinet
dealer just laughed when I asked about them;  he said everybody that
worked there took them home to make cutting boards and such.  Another
dealer wanted to charge me the same per sq.ft. price as the whole
sheets, which made a 24"x28" piece cost some $60 or so.  I have settled
for plain laminate cutouts, which one dealer gives me for free, just to
get rid of them.


-- 
|          ...we have to look for routes of power our teachers never       
|              imagined, or were encouraged to avoid.   T. Pynchon          
|                    
|Andrew Cohill        cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu            VPI&SU
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Tablesawn Dovetails (was: Handcutting Dovetails)
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:09:41 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Tom Perigrin writes
{a good tablesaw method}

A variant of this method was written by Mark Duginske for FWW mag several 
years ago. The article, with photos and diagrams, is included in the softcover 
books "FWW on Joinery" and "FWW on Boxes, Carcase, and Drawers."

Mark's method uses spacer blocks to acheive predictable fits and 
interchangeability of tail and pin boards (it's also faster for a production 
run). He had a blade reground so that the kerf bottom is flat when tilted 
to the tail angle, making chisel cleanup somewhat easier.

Also in one of these books is an article by Tage Frid on cutting through 
dovetails with a bandsaw.

Both methods can produce narrower tails (1/8" or less) than router techniques, 
yielding a more delicate look.


- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat)
Subject: Instructions?
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, VA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 11:29:25 GMT

I was at Colonial Williamsburg yesterday, in the newly-expanded
Rockefeller Folk Art Museum.  There was an amusing "Hipponocerous"
sculpture, part Hippo, part Rhino, carged out of a walnut log by a folk
artist whose name, blush, I don't remember.  A guided tour came through
and the guide waxed poetic about the sculpture.  Then a kid asked:
Kid:	-How did he know how to make it?
Guide:	-What do you mean?
K:	-Where did he get the instructions?
G:	-He didn't have any instructions.
K:	-Then how did he know what to do?

(Etc. for a few more rounds.)
-- 
--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
  The more viruses you get exposed to, the better your immune system becomes.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 27 Jul 1992 09:21:16 GMT
From:         Pete Gifford <PGIFFORD@ALLEGVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Don't Lose Your Chuckey (was Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?)
              25 Jul 1992 15:30:13 GMT from <baud@KEPLER.EEDSP.GATECH.EDU>

On Sat, 25 Jul 1992 15:30:13 GMT Kurt Baudendistel said:
>In article <1992Jul23.205940.29019@news.arc.nasa.gov> doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov
>(David Doshay) writes:
>>I space out and put the key down "somewhere."
>
>Don't ever lose your checkey! Buy my new ``never-lose-it'' system!
>
>Just take a piece of duct tape, double it over the cord of your
>drill, and put the handle of the key in between the two sticky parts
>before you push them all the way together! No ascii graphics needed for
>this one!
>--
>Kurt Baudendistel ---                                           --- GRA
>Georgia Tech, School of Electrical Engineering, Atlanta, GA  30332-0250
>internet: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu              uucp: gatech!gt-eedsp!baud

For my drill press chuck key (which was forever crawling under things)
I have a long bright orange shoe lace tied between the chuck and the
wire running from the motor to the switch.  Now I can always find it,
even if I have to dig it out from under a pile of stuff.

Pete Gifford
pgifford@allegvm
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: baud@kepler.eedsp.gatech.edu (Kurt Baudendistel)
Subject: Don't Lose Your Chuckey (was Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?)
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 15:30:13 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.205940.29019@news.arc.nasa.gov> doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay) writes:
>I space out and put the key down "somewhere."

Don't ever lose your checkey! Buy my new ``never-lose-it'' system!

Just take a piece of duct tape, double it over the cord of your
drill, and put the handle of the key in between the two sticky parts
before you push them all the way together! No ascii graphics needed for
this one!
-- 
Kurt Baudendistel ---                                           --- GRA
Georgia Tech, School of Electrical Engineering, Atlanta, GA  30332-0250
internet: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu              uucp: gatech!gt-eedsp!baud
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 25 Jul 1992 21:01:00 CDT
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods

On Fri, 24 Jul 1992, Vance Morrison <morrison@DANTE.CS.UIUC.EDU>
writes:
>
> In article <92205.164804DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
> >I was wondering if anyone else has this problem.  Whenever I rip hardwoods
> >against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut.
> >.......
> >I would welcome any advice.
> >
>
> A dull blade of course could be the problem.   Assuming this is not
> the case, you should make sure that the fence is truely parallel to
> the blade and that you have a good true edge on the wood that is
> against the fence.  (As you push the wood through, take a glance at
> the fence every now and then, if you notice the wood is not flush
> against the fence, the wood is probably warped).  Either of these
> problems will cause the wood to rub against the blade, causing the
> burn marks.
>
> Vance

I'd ditto this and just add that 90% of the time, it's been an obvious sign to
me that I need to pull the blade off and sharpen it.  It's almost always
cleared up the burning immediately.

---Charlie
From: jwas_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Jason Wasson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Fixing a Lamp, suggested sources please
Date: 27 Jul 92 16:44:41 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

I would like to fix an old lamp that I found.  The lamp is a real beauty
but it doesn't work.  I think the switches needs to be replaced and the
wiring re-done.  I say this because when I turned plugged in the lamp
the first time it crackeled until I unplugged the cord and the switches 
wont turn.  I was looking in around for some books to use and one that
seems really appropriate is *Time Life's Home Repair Book*, does anybody
have any thoughts about this book or anyother book that I could use as a
guide to fixing the lamp?


						Thanks,
						Jason Wasson
					jwas_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
-- 
					Jason Wasson
					jwas_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wiring riddle
Date: 23 Jul 92 21:22:28 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <WOODWORK%92072307214979@IPFWVM.BITNET> JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET writes:
>Today's riddle:

>        two-way      four-way     two-way
>        switch 1     switch 2     switch 3
>         |   |        |   |        |   |         Kitchen Light
>
>          On           On           On                Off
>          Off          On           On                Off
>          On           Off          On                Off
>          On           On           Off               Off
>          Off          Off          On                On   *
>          On           Off          Off               On   *
>          Off          On           Off               Off
>          Off          Off          Off               Off
>
>The two-way switches work with the four-way switch in the "off" position, but
>not with the four-way switch in the "on" position.  I suspect the four-way
>switch is simply broken, but was wondering if a wiring problem might exist
>instead.  

First of all, what you have are two three-way switches (sw 1 & sw3) and a
four way switch.  Secondly, none of these switches have an "on" or "off"
direction, so it would be better to say up and down.  The cause of your 
problem could be either a broken four way switch or a miswired four way 
switch.  The easiest way to test for both problems is with a voltmeter.

Make sure the circuit breaker is off! Even if the lights are not on,
the four-way switch has power coming to it.

The four way switch is a double pole, double throw switch.  It has four
contacts, two for the wires from sw1 (call them A&B) and two for the
wires from sw2 (C&D).  In the up position, A and C are connected,
and B and D are connected.  In the down position, A and D are connected,
and B and C are conected.

i.e.

        --------A--C-------
                   
sw1                             sw3
        --------B--D-------
               sw2 up

	--------A  C-------
		 \/
sw1		 /\             sw3
	--------B  D-------
               sw2 down

If the wires at A and D were swapped, say, then the switch would behave just 
like your description. 

Some 4-way switches have positions A&B on one side of the switch and C&D on
the other.  Other mfrs put A&B on top, C&D on the bottom.  If you are used
to one arrangement, it is pretty easy to wire a 4-way switch incorrectly.

Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kosicki@ratchet.Prime.COM (Bernie Kosicki)
Subject: Re:      Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Reply-To: kosicki@ratchet.Prime.COM (Bernie Kosicki)
Organization: Prime Computer R&D
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 12:12:07 GMT

Bill,

I purchased the Makita 9.6V cordless in December wiht the keyless chuck.
I have had no slippage at all, and find that it is MUCH quicker to
change bits.  Especially handy when I was screwing down some decking for
a pool deck, and I kept switching between the phillps bit, and an
auto-countersink drill bit.

Good luck,

Bernie Kosicki
kosicki@s35.Prime.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: porcelli@trabs.serum.kodak.com (Rocco Porcelli (x69853))
Subject: Re: Grizzly question answered, thanks.
Reply-To: porcelli@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 11:41:59 GMT

billq@fnal.gov (William R. Quayle) writes:


>I've just persuaded our newserver administrator to carry rec.wood, and
>as such, missed what must have been a pretty lively discussion on
>Grizzly.  My dad is in the market for a table saw, and just got a
>flyer advertizing 355$ for the 10 inch model.  I'm really interrested
>if someone could send a quick summary on what gives with Grizzly.
>IMHO, I'd prefer buying USMADE, but that's pretty well imposible these
>days

I believe I receivied this information from a sales person at a local tool store.  Almost every 10 in. contractors style saw is made in the same Tiawaneese factory by a company called Rexon.  This includes the Powermatic Artisan and Delta.  I doubt if you can find a saw at this level that is actually made in the US.  I own the Grizzly and have been very happy with it.  I had no problems putting it together and everything was pretty well adjusted right out of the box.  


Rocco Porcellio
porcellio@serum.clpd.kodak.com


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billq@fnal.gov (William R. Quayle)
Subject: Tool storage, Unisaw prices
Reply-To: billq@pogo.fnal.gov
Organization: Very little
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 17:17:24 GMT

Sorry for the varied subjects in a single post.

Regarding tool storage:

The situation is this; the only place <my wife will let me> I have for
a shop is in our garage.  It's damp.  I've got *lots* of very old tools
(my father, grandfather, and gr.grandfather were all woodworkers).  I
don't want to see my tools degrade due to the weather, but also don't
want to destroy their value by applying "a good layer of goo" (goo being
grease, oil, whatever).  What to do?  I figgure I'd need about 50 lbs.
of silica gel to do the job on the moisture:-(  Then there's the changes
in weather.  It does get a might cool here in Winter (Chicago).  Any
suggestions on protecting wood and metal planes, primitive hand tools,
saws, etc?? BTW, I do use these, so I'd like to be able to keep them in
the shop and use them without doing summersaults first.

Second question - Unisaw...

Earlier I had asked (Bennet, thanks) for info on the Grizzly tale.  Well,
after much thought and discussion, I've decided to go for broke (literally),
and buy a Delta Unisaw.  Now this saw will be in dad's shop (mom lets him
have his in the basement:-),  and dad lives up near the big puddle
(Ishpeming Michigan, on the south shore of Lake Superior).  There's not
a Delta dealer for miles, so I'm going to have the thing delivered
to his door, hauled to the basement, and set up for him.  (I do have a
couple of friends willing to unload it and set it up.)  Dad does a lot
of work with cherry, walnut, maple, and oak; mostly things like desks,
china hutches, beds, etc... -no heavy construction type stuff, most of his
stock is less than 8' length, and typically 6/4 (maybe occasionally some
heavier, though).

Questions:

1)  Regarding the saw:
  a) what fence do you have, and why?
  b) Would you rather have a different one?
    i) Which?
  c) What is the recommended motor size...
    i) for 120 VAC?
   ii) for 220 VAC?
  d) Do you have the extension table?
	e) I haven't explored all the options yet, are there any in particular
     you'd recommend? <-(cheeze I hate that word, I feel like Dan in a
                         spelling bee!;-)

2) Regarding where to buy:
  a) What's the best price you've seen on it?
  b) Can I get this thing with shipping included?
  c) How has the company you've delt with deal with problems?
  d) Comments, please:


Please respond via email.  If I get enough replies, I'll summarize and
post.

Thanks much,
billq
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking