HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ari@viipuri.nersc.gov (Ari Ollikainen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: 27 Aug 92 00:49:39 GMT
Organization: National Energy Research Supercomputer Center, Livermore CA

In article <1992Aug23.223151.1256@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> bj251@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Peter E. Dinin) writes:
>And there will be another VW diesel available soon in north america.  The
>new Vanagon (or whatever they are calling it) was shown at the Cleveland
>Auto Show this year with a diesel engine.  However, they said that there were
>no plan to make that engine available in the US, but it would be available
>in Canada.  So, if you want one .....

Did you happen to get any specs on the Diesel EuroVan? HP/Torque, fuel
consumption, that sort of thing?

I noticed in one of the car mags (MotorTrend, I think) that Chrysler was
selling, in Italy,  a TurboDiesel version of the Caravan which outperforms the 
2.5l US spec 4 cylinder!  No plans for a US version have been announced.

I don't see why a TurboDiesel EuroVan couldn't get fuel consuption 
in the high 20ies...

Speaking of the EuroVan, I still wonder what bonehead thought that windows
in the passenger compartment that open are unnecessary with the dual A/C...
EXCEPT in the MV!

Ari Ollikainen
(former) VW fan


Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:4898 rec.autos:20814
From: bragg@pecan.cns.udel.edu (Aquatic Joe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Info needed on VW EuroVan
Keywords: Van...slow
Date: 27 Aug 92 05:59:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Green Circle Of Vengence

In article <1992Aug26.232551.1149@ibmpa.awdpa.ibm.com> chesky@squirrel.austin.ibm.com (Bill Chesky) writes:

>One of the vans that they are looking at is the VW EuroVan (EuroSport???).
>They can't find much information on it since it hasn't been sold yet in
>the US.  They are very leary about buying a VW van since we had lots of trouble
>w/ our VW Vanagon a few years back.  You were lucky to reach 65 mph in that
>thing going down a hill w/ a tail wind.  Plus the dashboard layout was 
>really hokey - nobody, not even the dealership, could figure out how the
>airflow controls worked.  And worst of all the engine seized up - twice!

	I haven't heard much about it, but I think it was Car&Driver, had and
article about the old micro-buses.  They had a little side bar about the new
Euro-Van.
	What they basically said is that it is the biggest and slowest mini-van
on the market(when it get here).
	I would be inclined to believe that it is slow (in the case of your
Vangon, especially with special lift equipment.
	But it is roomy and that's probably the main consideration to you.
	Hope this is of help...
-- 
Adam Bragg                  |Tick: Hand Grenade Man? What are your super-powers?
bragg@freezer.cns.udel.edu  | HGM: Super powers? Bah!  Who needs 'em? I've got a
darkwing@ravel.udel.edu     |      HAND GRENADE!
                          SPOON!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lytle@noao.edu (Dyer Lytle  CCS)
Subject: How do I quiet my air-cooled VW engine?
Organization: National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, USA
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 15:33:08 GMT





Greetings,

This is directed to air-cooled VW owners.

A few weeks ago I purchased my first air-cooled VW, a 1972 campmobile.
I have noticed that the engine noise is louder than I am used to and
am wondering what I can to to quiet it.

There is an access hole inside the vehicle over the engine (home-made
by the looks of it) that was covered by a large piece of plywood (also
home-made).  It was fairly noisey this way and when I took out the
plywood was VERY noisy.  I went down to Home Depot and bought a one-inch
thick piece of poly-urathane (sp?) foam insulation.  This I cut up and
put it down over the engine shelf and on the front of the engine shelf.
The noise is reduced about as much as with the plywood.

A book I have on customizing vans says that having spray foam insulation
applied to the interior is really good for deadening noise.  Has anybody
tried this?   The quote I got was $200 to foam the entire interior.

I also think I will have to get some sort of metal plate to cover the
engine access hole with a gasket to seal around the edge to keep out both
noise and engine fumes.

Is there any other way to keep these air-cooled engines quiet?  Is there
something that can be done to the engine itself?  I'm running Mobil 1
15w-50 oil, would straight 30w be quieter?  I adjusted the valves so I
assume tappet noise is at a minimum (but I can still hear them).  I have
the stock exhaust system.

I wonder about engine and transmission mounts also.  If these are going bad
do they cause much more interior noise from the engine/transaxle?

Thanks for any information or help!

 -Dyer


-- 
Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136
Internet: lytle@noao.edu        SPAN: NOAO::LYTLE (NOAO=5355)
From: RXM108@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Front End Chatter Solved...
Date: 30 Aug 92 05:12:14 GMT
Organization: Penn State University

How many of you have ever beat your head against the wall while trying
to diagnose a chattering noise that sounds just like a broken suspension
part?  Well, take my advice and check your "Anti-Rattle Brake Springs"
first... These seemingly insignificant spacers make the difference
between a soild sounding suspension and one that sounds as if it will
fall apart at any minute.  I saw posts about similar problems here on
the net awhile back and sure enough, this was my problem.
A quick way to check if it is the brake springs making the noise, drive
along a bumpy road with and without the brakes applied.  If the noise
goes away once the brakes are applied, chances are it's the springs.
Also, if you are missing a spring or two, thouroughly check the brake
pads for damage.  Without those springs in place, the excessive rattling
can easily chip of pieces of the pad.  One last note, when you go to
your dealer to pick up a new spring, make sure you know exactly which
one (eg:top left) is missing... they are not all interchangeable....
Hope this helps!
+----------------------------------------------------------+
|Roderick Murchison, Jr.      Population Research Institute|
|office: (814) 863-8321       Penn State University        |
|fax:    (814) 863-8342       rxm108@psuvm.psu.edu         |
|home:   (814) 867-1999       murchiso@darwin.psu.edu      |
|       "Friends don't let friends use WordPerfect"        |
+----------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: Re: Shocks for Bus - no KYB's?
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 15:49:07 GMT


Bob asks me-
>I'm curious about the statement that KYB's should not be used on the front
>of a VW Microbus.

Purely word of mouth.  Or actually word of net ;-)  A while ago the
question of bus shocks came up and someone told me that KYB gassers
on the front of his bus made the ride a little too harsh for his butt
on normal roads so he put regular stock Boge's up front and KYBs in
back.  Which is what I'm in the process of doing.  I've already
put the stock jobbers up front and like the ride just fine.  Still need
the backs though as what's on there are both leaking and not offering
much support whatsoever.

Seems to me the earlier discussion revolved around the question of
sailing in the wind- that KYB's helped to keep you on the straight and
narrow due to their stiffness.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: I HATE MY DODGE
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 05:47:49 GMT

In article <UedDsxO00WBLI3o5wo@andrew.cmu.edu> Janviere S Thuman <jt3u+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>At 12,000 miles (while still under warranty) my brakes began to pulse
>violently. I realize that normal wear and tear on a car happens, but at
>12,000 miles, no brakes should go bad! I didn't complain. I had the
>rotors turned and pads replaced etc, but began to experience the EXACT
>same thing in less than 5,000 miles. I am not an erratic driver. I live
>on the Eastern Shore of Maryland where it is FLAT and rural. To this
>day, the car is still in almost perfect condition (garage kept, cleaned,
>maintained, etc) (And I have a Jeep that I drive when the weather is
>bad) 

Again another disk-brake problem.
As I have said before, disk brakes are for the birds!

> I will never ever never ever buy another Chrysler. If not for the
>quality of their products, for the inability of the company to help me.
>. . a consumer. (I'm young too! I plan to buy many cars in the future!)

I drive a 27 year old Dodge (1965).  
I wouldn't trade it in for any 'modern' car because of it's trouble-free
operation, or ease of fixing, or low cost of repairs.
There once was a time when automakers and dealerships didn't rely on
super-expensive 'check-ups', or didn't rely on expensive parts that
failed just past the warrantee, or fell outside the warrantee.

As for your brake problem, warped rotors are part of the design of
disk brakes; no-one builds a trouble-free disk brake (they will all
need resurfacing, and even if they don't your friendly neighborhood
midas or whomever will resurface them anyways, making them needlessly
thinner and even more prone to warping).

Say hello to 'modern' technology, and modern revenue generating methods...
Xref: sparky rec.autos:20788 rec.autos.driving:5149 rec.autos.tech:11773
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations for Mini Van
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:41:51 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

cessna@kn5f.jsc.nasa.gov (Mark Taylor Evert) writes:

> > Took a trip to Minnisota with my son and pregnant wife
> > in a Jeep Cherokee w/o a/c. I am now in the market for
> > a mini van with dual a/c. Any recommendations?
> > 
> > Thanks in advance, J. Don
> 
> Mercury is coming out with a new minivan which is a joint project with 
> Nissan called the Villager.  It will be built by Mercury and sold by both 
> Mercury and Nissan.   It's been getting rave reviews in many auto 
> publications.  It sounds like it is worth checking out.   I drive an 
> Aerostar, and have been satisfied with it also although the design 
> isbecoming somewhat dated.

Yea!  This is great!  I could get this mini-van, break out some old Disco 
records, and be 'The Villager People'.

Oh.. I kill me...

----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68 Cougar XR-7, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CL360Twin, Ti/99/4a, Vextrex, Timex
From: cha@csgo.usc.edu (Seungho Cha)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: HONDA CIVIC BASHING C
Date: 31 Aug 1992 14:56:44 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: csgo.usc.edu

erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim)  writes:
>ignorant).  Honda's are EXPENSIVE, a top of the line CIVIC costs
>$16,000!!  That's ridiculous and they always advertise them for $11,000.
> Yeah, no power anything, no A/C, no radio, etc.  Top of the line Accord
>costs $20,000 loaded, Prelude costs $24,000 (Si 4ws loaded), top of the

I don't know about Civic, Prelude or Integra.  But I know about Accord,
as an owner of 2 Accords.

**** Who told you that top of the line Accord is $20,000? ****

92 Accord EX 4 dr. 5 spd. can be bought at $17,000 including TAX, LICENCE, mat,
rear mud guard, other misc. processing fees.  I mean the DRIVE OUT price.
( California sales tax is 8.25 % !! )
92 Accord LX 4 dr. 5 spd. can be bought below $14,900 including the same thing
above ---> I bought it at that price.  You can get a better deal.

Automatic trans costs you 630 more, 2 dr costs you 160 less.  It's a little 
more expensive than usual American cars, but IT'S NOT EXPENSIVE considering
its quality, refinement, etc.

- Seungho


Xref: sparky rec.autos:21250 rec.autos.tech:12086 rec.autos.sport:9497 rec.autos.driving:5237 alt.autos.antique:1639 news.answers:2737
From: paschall@utdallas.edu (Dwayne Paschall)
Subject: Re: front disc brake question
Reply-To: $USER@utdallas.edu
Organization: The University of Texas at Dallas
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:13:03 GMT

Actually, the service shop that recommended turning the rotors probably 
isn't too far off. It is a good idea ANY time you change brake pads to 
either turn or REPLACE the rotors. For example, Honda and BMW have rotors 
which are really too thin to turn. If you take too much metal off, the 
rotors become dangerously thin. BMW also BALANCES their rotors. You can 
actually see where some small amounts of metal have been removed from the 
edges of the rotors.

With your Taurus, I'd go ahead and let the shop turn the rotors. Just to 
be safe.

Best wishes,
Dwayne Paschall
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
  //\    //\\\                 M3    "The ULTIMATE Driving Machine"
 //  \  //  \\\                M5          paschall@utdallas.edu
//    \//    \\\otor Sport     M7             dp85bmw@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: aalis@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu (Al Bundy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: HONDA CIVIC awesomeness CONTINUES
Date: 31 Aug 92 19:03:39 GMT
Organization: San Francisco State University

Steve Elias wrote:
.....
> the 92 Civic is bigger than the 87 Accord!

Just a nit pick here, but at 171 something inch length, the 92
Civic is SHORTER than 87 Accord which is 178 something inch.
On the other hand, the Civic wheelbase at 103,1 inch is LONGER
than the Accord at 102 something inch.

Maybe the 92 Civic is BIGGER than the 81 - 85 Accord.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: bowers@rigel.dfrf.nasa.gov (Al Bowers)
Subject: Re: Honda Civic Bashing continues...
Organization: NASA Dryden, Edwards, Cal.
	<1992Aug24.032212.280@midway.uchicago.edu>
	<1992Aug24.072039.4731@news.cs.indiana.edu> <2A9D619F.5962@ics.uci.edu>
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:26:41 GMT

In article <2A9D619F.5962@ics.uci.edu> craigm@chateau-rouge.ics.uci.edu (Craig MacFarlane) writes:

>In article <1992Aug24.072039.4731@news.cs.indiana.edu> "Amy Young Leith" <alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu> writes:
>>In article <1992Aug24.032212.280@midway.uchicago.edu> epc1@midway.uchicago.edu writes:

>>Hey, if you're going to buy a "MX6 or a Probe or a Talon or a Miate
>>or... you get the idea" why not spend just a few thousand more and get
>>a BMW or a Lotus or a... well, you get the idea.

>I just test drove a 1992 BMW 318i this morning and found it to be a
>nice car but excessively noisy.  There was an annoying amount of wind
>noise on the driver's side just above the outside mirror.

Drive another one.  Did you look at the rubber door seal there?  Was
it okay?  Or was it missing/torn/damaged?

>For 24,000 dollars, I expect dead silence in the
>interior.

You sound as though what you really want is a Cadillac or a Buick.
Anything european will probably not suit you (short of a Rolls or
maybe a Jag).  The idea with most _sporting_ vehicles is that you are
a participant the the _sport_ of driving.  And that means wind noise
and motor noise and feel in the steering, etc.

>I own an 1988 Honda Civic.  First impression of the BMW?  It's not
>twice as good as my civic, yet it's twice the price.

You obviously have not priced the current line of Civics with
equivalent options...

--
"Time is simply the illusion of the passing of history, and history is
simply the illusion of the passing of time..."
                                -The Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy
Iaido   Takamine   Hobie   Rossignol   Alfa GTV6  Ducati MHR(DOD #900)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: kcreta@sedona.intel.com (Kenneth Creta)
Subject: Bugs
Originator: kcreta@sedona
Reply-To: kcreta@sedona.intel.com
Organization: Intel Corporation, ASIC in the Desert
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 22:17:55 GMT


Hi,

	How can I remove the bug guts I get all over the front of my BLACK
	car?  I try and dodge those little guys but I'd swear some were on
	a suicide mission :)

	Seriously, the window is no problem but how do I remove the bugs
	without damaging the paint and/or finish on the car?

						Thx,
							Ken

P.S.  I'm sorry if this is a repost but I don't know if the previous one
      made it. 
From: Don.Chick@f2010.n391.z1.FidoNet.Org (Don Chick)
Sender: UUCP@p0.f1060.n391.z1.FidoNet.Org
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: RE: LOCKING LUG NUTS & BROKEN KEY
Date: 26 Aug 92 22:44:30 EST


 > Any other ways prevent wheel theft?

Shotgun....

 * Origin: The Coop:ARK tradition since '87 501-273-CHIC (1:391/2010)
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Dura-Lube BEATS Slick 50 and ALL others???
Date: 1 Sep 1992 15:17:19 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


   Has anybody seen this new half hour commerical in which this Dura-Lube is
put through all kinds of grinding tests in front of race car engine builders
and such? They test it against Slick 50, Mobile 1, and several other motor
oils, all of which fail in a big way compared to this product. They do various
grind/friction tests and even run a racing engine with no oil in it. Just
curious if any true comparisons have been down to see who is the real winner.
-- 
"A large creature about 7 1/2 to 8 foot tall. It was greyish black in color,
and as it went away from me I seen the backside of it walking as a man would
walk on it's hind legs."- Former Sheriff Oliver Potter, Vancouver, Washington
The Cryptozoology Information Network. Want on our Email mailing list? Amiga!
From: Sherman@128.147.155.27 (Sherman Uitzetter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Good Mercedes Mechanic in Pittsburgh?
Date: 27 Aug 92 16:56:42 GMT
Organization: Pittsburgh NMRI
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3
X-Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 12:59:57 GMT



    Hi,

    I recently purchased a 1984 Mercedes 190E from
my step-mother.  I'm looking for a good Mercedes
mechanic in the Pittsburgh area (before I really need
one).  So far I've only gone to the local dealer
(Wetzel Motorworks) for an oil change and PA inspection;
they seem ok but I felt like just another wallet to
them.  I'm hoping to find a smaller place that takes
pride in their work.

    Also, I've decided I can do my own oil changes
from now on and I'd like a book that specifically
details repair and maintenance for 190E's.  I bought
Chilton's Mercedes book but it's too general. They
often forget that the reader may own a 190E, and
leave out details about it.


    If you (YES, YOU!) know of a good Mercedes mechanic
in the Pittsburgh area, or where I can get a repair/
maintenance manual for my 1984 190E please e-mail me.


Thanks in advance for info,
-Sherman.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    WOW! WHAT A SIG!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: cnsg0407@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (CMOS)
Subject: Any info/opinions on GMC Sonoma or Dodge Dakota pickups?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 16:43:46 GMT

I just read an interesting article on the Dodge Dakota pickup with the
new "magnum" 318 V8.  It was as fast as a Mustang GT.

I've been thinking about buying a pickup truck (actually my wife wants one),
and the Dakota and GMC's Sonoma look decent.  Does anybody have any info or 
opinions about either of these trucks?  if anybody owns either one, could
you tell me what you think about it?

Thanks in advance!

-Carl Samos
 cnsg0407@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Paint question
Summary: Good paint care
Keywords: fresh paint
Date: 27 Aug 92 02:57:07 GMT
Reply-To: behanna@syl.nj.nec.com
Followup-To: rec.autos
Distribution: na
Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc.


	I just had the bed of my S-10 repainted under warranty (the original
paint had been peeling off from day one).  How long should I wait for the paint
to cure before doing the following:

	1) Laying my heavy rubber mat back down.

	2) Washing

	3) Waxing

	4) Hauling stuff.

	I want to take care of the paint as best as I can while still using
the truck for its intended purpose (hauling stuff, notably, a Harley).

Thanks to those who answer informatively,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114   1983 Harley-Davidson FXWG Wide Glide (She lives!)
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	   (I need another bike for this space!)

Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC agree with any of this anyway?
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen)
Subject: Re: Honda Civic Bashing continues...
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 20:59:44 GMT

In article <7740214@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> rjs@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bob Schneider) writes:
>mikeq@aspen.CNA.TEK.COM (Mike Quigley) writes:
>
>>I have a VX that gets an honest 55 mpg and cost me less than 9 k (through
>>an auto broker). Top that, Detroit!
>>
>>Mike
> 
>	The Geo Metro XFI is still the winner in the highest EPA city and
>	highway MPG figures. It is higher than the VX. Since Geo is sold
>	by GM, in a sense, Detroit did "top that" and has for several
>	years.

It not a clear victory since GM has a wimpy tiny motor in the Metro
while the Civic has a much higher horsepower engine. The difference
in mileage is so slim, that I'd rather have the horesepower.

john


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
John Nielsen   MAGNUS Consultant            ______   ______   __  __	
"I can't compete with you physically,      /\  __ \ /\  ___\ /\ \/\ \
and you're no match for my brains."   	   \ \ \/\ \\ \___  \\ \ \_\ \
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: STONE DING ON ROOF
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:42:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

-> this past weekend while driving, a stone or some other object hit the
-> roof of my car (it may have been from the overpass which I had just
-> driven under).  Anyway, there is a small ding, and I don't even think
-> there is more then a tiny dent.  I am more worried about rust then
-> anything else, so I would like to touch it up.
->
-> The car paint is a flint black metallic on a 91 Integra, so if anyone
-> has touched up a similar paint, I'd appreciate the advice.  If the
-> advice is go to such-and-such, that would be helpful too.  Thanks
-> much.

  Oh man, sorry to hear that..  Integras are really easy to dent up, I
should know, I have a 91 Integra.  If it's REALLY bothering you that
bad, you should go to the body shop to get it fixed..  But it's going to
cost you about $300 at least.  Otherwise if you don't care, just leave
it alone.  I wouldn't put touch-up paint, as the touch-up paint is a
different color from what's on your car and it will probably look even
worse!  Ughh!  Well, hope you don't get anymore dings!

  Erich Lim   Internet add:   erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us
From: mark.nickel@canrem.com (mark nickel)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: honda civic bashing
Date: 2 Sep 92 00:45:16 GMT
Reply-To: "mark nickel" <mark.nickel@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems

-> En, my man, I hope you realize that these are 17,000 CANADIAN dollars
-> that he's talking about. You see, that makes the VX less expensive
-> than most of the cars in the list.

Excuse me,

To add even more strength to your arguement the 1992 Civic VX sells for
around $12,000 CDN not $17,000.

-> To makes things fair, I'll say that my '92 Civic SI has been
-> problem-free since I bought it in January. I really enjoy the car,

I'm glad to here it I just bought one on Saturday.  Can't wait to get
it.

Mark
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos