HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jjoslin@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Jeff Joslin)
Subject: PC databases for woodworking
Originator: jjoslin@kingcong.UWaterloo.ca
Keywords: computer,database,PC Index,Woodfind,journals
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:54:14 GMT

There are at least three PC-based programs out there which contain
databases of woodworking magazines.  I'm trying to decide between them,
and I hope that some of you can help.
 
In the October '92 issue of Fine Woodworking, there's an ad on page 3 for
"The PC Index to Fine Woodoworking".  It appears to be an exhaustive
cross-reference of all articles appearing in FWW.  It costs $39.95 US, ppd.
According to the ad, you can add information to the database yourself, or
you can get a complete update at any time for $14.95.  The database also
cross-references Taunton Press books containing reprints from FWW.
 
On page 103 of the same issue of FWW, there are a couple of smaller ads
for similar software.  "Comprehensive woodworking index" references "11
journals, 290 issues, 6500 articles."  Price is $44.95.  "Woodfind
Computer Index" references "388+ issues in 10 leading magazines."  It
costs $49.95.  WCI is briefly reviewed in the August '92 issue of WOOD
magazine.  The review says that WCI indexes every issue of WOOD, Weekend
Woodworking Projects, Fine Woodworking, American Woodworker, Today's
Woodworker, Woodsmith, and Woodwork.  It also indexes 1985-to-present
issues of Woodworker's Journal and Workbench.  (That's only 9 journals,
not 10.  I suspect that ShopNotes, a new journal, is the 10th.)  Updates
are $7.95 per year.  The program is described as "extremely helpful and
user-friendly".
 
Based upon the ads and the review, it sounds like the PC Index is a
computerized compilation of all the FWW year-end indexes, whereas the
Woodfind Computer Index searches by article title or by topic.  This
suggests to me that PC Index is more exhaustive in its coverage of FWW,
but of course that's all it covers; WCI covers 9 other journals as well.
The information on "Comprehensive woodworking index" is minimal.
 
Can any of you shed more light on these (or other) computer databases of
woodworking articles?
 
Jeff
-- 
Jeff Joslin                            University of Waterloo grad student
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help w/ paste wood filler
Date: 31 Aug 92 18:53:16 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

> From time to time, I've been experiencing a problem when using paste wood fille
> r.  The problem is scratching thesurface when removing the filler.

I rarely use wood filler, but when I do the stuff I use is the minwax
two part stuff.  Just as with applying plaster or joint compound keep
your scaping tool (credit card) at a very low angle.
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges.
Date: 27 Aug 92 23:30:09 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:

: It's a good thing I did this because it is very difficult to keep the
: sheet straight while running it against the blade.  I did have some
: "dips" in the cut but I figured that when I routed, that would alleviate
: the problem(Aside from buying the bigger table, how have you folks managed
: to get around the "moving sheet of plywood, while ripping it" problem?).
: As noted in my earlier message, that didn't go to well as the router bit
: chipped out the veneer and did a pretty louse job of routing.  

I use an extension fence on my table saw. I run a good edge of the plywood
along this fence - giving me a straight cut. I also use outfeed rollers to
support the far ends of the plywood.

... 

: BTW, I have the Delta contractor's saw and have another question.  When the
: saw is running, it seems to run smoothly with no problem.  When I turn it
: off, it starts to slow down and everything is ok.  Eventually, something
: appears to get out of balance and the whole saw starts to vibrate.  The
: best comparison I can come up with would be a washer.  When the washer 
: starts its spin cycle, if the clothes are balanced, the washer will come to
: a nice, even stop.  Should the clothes gather on one side while the cycle is
: going, it will start to jump since the tub is out of balance(I hope this
: makes things clearer).  Anyway, is this a problem with my saw(if it is,
: what's wrong and how do I fix it) or is just a quirk of every saw?

Check the arbor on your saw and see if there is a mark on it. The hole in
the blade is, of necessity, slightly oversize. Some saws take this into
consideration for vibration reduction when mounting the blade. If there is
a mark, you want it upward (towards the table surface). You then mount the
blade with the label upright. This is supposed to minimize vibration due
to the oversized mounting hole.  I have not personally noticed any difference,
but that is what the books say to do.

There definitely is something out of balance. I would suggest trying another
blade. If the same thing occurs, then it is probably due to the saw, rather
than the blade.  Make sure that all mounting screws are properly tightened.

If the vibration still occurs, you can try blade stabilizers - such as those
sold by Sears. They will cut, to some extent, blade induced vibration, as 
well as reduce blade whine.

Bill
From: venable@faculty.coe.wvu.wvnet.edu (Wallace Venable)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans for wooden boats
Date: 29 Aug 92 17:26:43 GMT
Organization: WVU College of Engineering

>I'm looking for plans to build wooden canoes and kayaks. 
	If you want to build fine boats, requiring skill, tools, and time, 
get a copy of WOODEN BOATS magazine.  They advertise, and sell, plans, 
books, etc.
	If you want to build a boat and USE it this year, get a copy of "
Dynamite" Payson's books "INSTANT BOATS" or "BUILD THE NEW INSTANT BOATS."
These are published by Internatinal Marine Publishing, and available 
thriough most bookstore's order depts.

>Any experiences?
	I'm building my 5th and 6th "instant" boats this month.
From: jde@esix.everex.com (Jeff Ellis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Incra jigs
Date: 27 Aug 92 22:22:55 GMT
Organization: Esix Computers, Inc
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

I have been thinking about getting a incra jig for my router table,
has anybody used on of these a lot? 
How easy is to do dovetails with it? Is the incra pro a lot better 
than the standard jig? From the ads it seems to be a better buy.

Thanks for the info!
--
Jeff Ellis 					jde@esix.everex.com
Esix Computers, Inc.				jde@evturtle.everex.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: saksa@col.hp.com (Tom Saksa)
Subject: Re: Incra or Leigh?
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 03:14:51 GMT
Distribution: na, world
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
> 
> I've never played with an Incra Jig... I've never even seen one at less than
> 10'.   
> 
> What is it that the Incra Jig really does?   Would I be correct in saying that
> it allows the user to position a fence at 1/32 in increments, with excellent
> repeatability and good linear accuracy?   Could one get the same effect with
> a length of high quality 32 tpi threaded rod, a half nut, some maple boards,
> and the book?
> 
This is very close to what I did.  I built a sliding fence system
that uses threded rod and a crank to do precision work.  I find
it does an excellent poisitioning job.  So good in fact I had to
go out and buy a new blade to take full advantage of it's
capabilities.

The home made approach ended up with a fixture much larger
than the Incra Jig, and I do not see much value in the extra
size.  The nice things about an Incra Jig is that it positions
very well, is highly repeatable, and comes in an efficient easy
to store package. 

Also, in addition to the 1/32 increments, the Incra Jig uses snap
in template strips to help measure most joints.  If you have a home
made fixture you will need to calculate the spacings and count all
the turns of your adjustment screws.  It works, but the Incra Jig
is more user friendly than what I ended up with.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 1 Sep 1992 09:19:25 PDT
From:         BALDWINJ@SJSUVM1.BITNET
Subject:      Help Finding Hardware ?
              31 Aug 1992 19:47:12 GMT from Paul Welch
              <paulw@HPSPDLA.SPD.HP.COM>

From: Jeff Baldwin
San Jose State University, Department of Geology
I would look in the Yellow Pages under "brass" and find a supplier whose specia
lty is brass.  Industrial suppliers are usually willing to deal with the hobbie
st if they know what they want and are willing to pay cash.  Good Luck!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mdc@crux1.cit.cornell.edu (Mark D. Crimmins)
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Organization: Cornell Information Technologies
Date:  2 Sep 92 03:08:13 GMT

tatem@tralfamadore.csc.ti.com (Joe Tatem) writes:


>While we're at it, can anyone described rip-sawn lumber?

>					Joe Tatem
>					tatem@csc.ti.com
Supposing this is serious (which it it probably is and no problem with
that), ripsawn lumber is cut along the grain (down the tree), which
leaves grain lines the length of the board.  Almost all lumber you see
is like this.  An exception would be a slice of tree-trunk, of the
kind they make coffee-tables out of.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.autos.tech
From: zardoz@rx-db (zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com)
Subject: Re: Air Compressor Wisdom
Organization: Intel Development Tools Operation, Hillsboro, OR
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 21:58:39 GMT

Air compressor tips:

Do not use multi-vis oil.  It is too thin at compressor temps and
will pass throught the rings.  Use a straight grade, 30 wt. is good.

When installing a moisture trap, do not mount it right on the tank.
Air needs to cool before moisture can be extracted.  Mount the trap
at least 10 ft. of hose or line away.

Drain tank regularly.  Water will corrode the bottom and eventually
cause rust outs that leak air.  I've seen these fixed with sheet
metal screws but don't recommend it.  Air tanks don't usually explode
but may burst on a seam if overfilled.  Rusted bottoms start leaking
long before they burst.  Look for an ASME label on tank.  This means
it has been constructed to higher strength standards to meet newer
codes.

Insure unloader and check valve operate correctly.  The unloader
releaves the air from the head when the compressor stops while the
check valve keeps the air in the tank after this happens.  Bigger
compressors may have a centrifugal unloader mechanism while smaller
ones use an air valve mounted on the pressure switch.

Check intake valve integrity by removing air filter and holding the
back of your hand near the intake.  Leaking valves will produce a
back blow effect that is obvious.  If the intakes are okay then the
exhaust valve are probably good too but may be carboned up.  Larger
air compressor valves can be renewed by lapping or turning the discs
over.  Springs and seats may need replacing.

Air volume is more important than air pressure for production work.
A typical automotive spray gun may need 7-10 cubic feet per minute
at 100 lbs. pressure measured at the compressor.  Air hose line lose
is about 10 lbs/50 ft. using 3/8" ID hose I think.  Line lose is
significant anyway.  A 2hp compressor will just about do 7cfm@100lbs
and is about minimum for constant air tool use.  Larger compressors
are usually 2 stage and are more efficient.  The 2 stage machines
usually are set to shut off at 175 lb.  The will require regulation.

-- 
Fan mail may be sent to:                 | 
zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com                | 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Incra jigs
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 23:19:31 GMT

Jeff Ellis writes
> I have been thinking about getting a incra jig for my router table,
> has anybody used on of these a lot? 

All the incra-jig does is position a fence in accurate increments of 1/32" from
some initial setting that you make (by eye in their video). Assuming you
haven't changed the inital setting, you can move the fence and reposition it
exactly where it was, for all intents and purposes. Once you reset the jig, 
however, you lose that ability (it's as good as you can recreate the initial 
setting).

If you need positioning in increments that are not sums of 1/32", like 7/64"
for instance, the jig won't help. If you need a range greater than the jig's 
range (16" for the big pro model), you're out of luck (with the standard jig, I 
suppose you could attach multiple jigs end to end to increase this range, but 
it gets expensive and awkward).


> How easy is to do dovetails with it?

What kind of dovetails: Sliding, half-blind, or through? 


> Is the incra pro a lot better than the standard jig? 

It's longer and more rigid, as well as more quickly locked and unlocked. 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: davidr@rookie.cadence.com (Dave Rich; x6337)
Subject: Re: Router Alternative (Was propeller)
Keywords: shaper
Reply-To: davidr@rookie.cadence.com (Dave Rich; x6337)
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:15:24 GMT

I made some simple raised panels with my radial arm saw. The technique
is similar to making a dado. Setup for a RIP cut, then tip the blade
about 15 degrees off parallel.

-- 
____________________________________________________________
Dave Rich	tele 1-508-934-0337 email davidr@cadence.com
Cadence Design,	2 Lowell Research Ctr., Lowell MA 01852-4995
____________________________________________________________
From: jp@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (John Pierce)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 15:17:30 GMT
Subject: Re: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
Organization: the Atlanta Technology Center
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I, too, got the Delta 14" BS.  It is a fine piece of equipment.

Check out the cover of Mark Duginske's Bandsaw Handbook.  That's the old
Delta 14".

Wood magazine also rated the Delta 14" as the Best Buy over $500.  I got mine
for $497.

Be sure to check out thrust bearing adjustment!  The Delta does a MUCH better
job than the import clones I checked.

I don't have enough money to afford mistakes when buying tools, so it makes
sense to pay a little more and get a better buy.


---
	#################ANY#OPINONS#HERE#ARE#MY#OWN####################
				John Pierce
			 Atlanta Technology Center
			  jdp@itpg004.atl.hp.com
			      (404) 850-2492
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:27:15 GMT

Bob Haar writes
> ... If all the curves are convex, you can still "raise" 
> the panel with the vertical bits.

It would be difficult to keep the bit perpendicular to the tangent along the 
curve. For the ogee bit profiles, the more you vary, the worse the result. 
Plus, there's the additional difficulty that the opening in the fence becomes
the means by which depth of cut is controlled. Sounds tricky to me.


> But I think I would do this with the router mounted in the
> mortising table (that I built from the WoodSmith plans) rather than
> in a router table. That way the router, bit, and work piece are
> all horizontal and the workpiece has good support from the table.

But, unless you're willing to cut a recess in the table for the router bit 
you'll end up with the work being sandwiched between the table and the router 
bit, which is potentially more dangerous and error-prone.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 1 Sep 1992 12:38:31 PDT
From:         BALDWINJ@SJSUVM1.BITNET
Subject:      Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
              1 Sep 1992 16:42:19 GMT from "Joe Tatem"
              <tatem@TRALFAMADORE.CSC.TI.COM>

From: Jeff Baldwin
San Jose State University, Department of Geology
What is rip-sawn lumber? Are you asking about riff-sawn lumber (ie. BETWEEN
flat sawn and quarter sawn?
From: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Fine WoodWorking Magazine
Date: 30 Aug 92 15:35:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Web BBS 1-513-436-9011 6 Lines 1200 News groups 50,000 files!
Reply-To: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 

To: rec.woodworking,01GNOGO0UXBY8WW8CG@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM

  .Date:         Mon, 17 Aug 1992 06:59:04 -0800Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECK
  ..COM
  .From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
  .Subject:      Fine WoodWorking Magazine

DR.Well, after all the references here to FWW I thought I'd take a look at it.
  .Now I know why I haven't.  Here in So. Calif. I have not been able to find a
  .newstand/magazine rack anywhere that carries it!  If anyone can point me to a
  .place in no. Orange Cty. that carries it, or a phone number I can call to
  .subscribe (though I'd like to see a copy or two first), please let me know.

The address is:  The Tauton Press
                 Fine Woodworking
                 63 South Main Street
                 P.O. Box 5506
                 Newtown, CT  06470-9971

The magazine is an excellent publication, one I've enjoyed for several
years.  It is published 6 times per year, and a subscription costs about
$29 per year.  If you're interested, there is also an equally excellent
counter publication called Fine Homebuilding - at the same address.

Regards,
Todd

---
 . OLX 2.2 . Telemate - it's better than sex!    (Well...)  ;-)
From: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: 28 Aug 92 19:13:43 GMT
Reply-To: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Organization: Moscom Corp., Pittsford, NY

In article <WOODWORK%92082809092649@IPFWVM.BITNET> RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET (Lawrence E. Rondot) writes:
>Woodcraft has 5 different "Safety-Raiser" panel raising bits in their catalog:
>    Italian Provincial, Aspen Ogee, Chardonay Ogee Bead, Calf. Straight,
>    and New England Cove.

What is different about these bits (as opposed to a regular propellor)?

>Woodcraft can be reached at +1 800 225 1153 (orders)
>                            +1 800 535 4482 (customer service)

Thanks for this.  I was about to ask.
-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Incra or Leigh?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 22:55:00 GMT

Rick Wedge writes
> With all the posts about the Incra jig, I'm wondering if that is the most 
> popular jig out there.  Is anybody using the Leigh dovetail jig?  How does
> it compare to the Incra? 

One difference I've not seen mentioned is that with the Incra jig you're moving 
the workpiece against a stationary router, and with the Leigh jig you're moving 
the router against a stationary workpiece. Hence for really big carcases the 
Leigh jig would be less cumbersome to use (I can't imagine using the Incra 
setup on a dresser side that's 4 feet high by 16" wide, but I can imagine using 
the Leigh on it). On the other hand, for really small pieces the Incra jig may 
be less cumbersome (clamping a very small piece in the Leigh jig can be 
tricky).

If your goal is to make router-cut, through dovetails that look as handcut as  
possible, the Leigh jig is easier to setup. With a board clamped in the Leigh 
jig you can actually "design" your pin/tail spacing using the adjustable 
fingers - the Incra jig takes more calculations in this regard (and, of course, 
the spacings must be in increments of 1/32", probably not a big deal). Varying 
the tail widths (and/or pin widths) helps to make the joint look more handcut. 

Of course, both jigs have the router dovetail bit's shaft diameter as the
lower limit for pin width. You still can't make those narrow 18th century
style through dovetails with any router jig.

Another, perhaps minor, difference for through dovetails is that you have to 
clear out the corners of the pins by hand with the Incra jig; the Leigh jig's 
through dovetails don't necessarily need any additional work.
From: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Fine WoodWorking Magazine
Date: 28 Aug 92 23:02:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Web BBS 1-513-436-9011 6 Lines 1200 News groups 50,000 files!
Reply-To: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 

To: rec.woodworking,01GNOGO0UXBY8WW8CG@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM

  .Date:         Mon, 17 Aug 1992 06:59:04 -0800Reply-To:     don@biivax.dp.BECK
  ..COM
  .From:         Don Roberts <DSROBERTS@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>
  .Subject:      Fine WoodWorking Magazine

DR.Well, after all the references here to FWW I thought I'd take a look at it.
  .Now I know why I haven't.  Here in So. Calif. I have not been able to find a
  .newstand/magazine rack anywhere that carries it!  If anyone can point me to a
  .place in no. Orange Cty. that carries it, or a phone number I can call to
  .subscribe (though I'd like to see a copy or two first), please let me know.

The address is:  The Tauton Press
                 Fine Woodworking
                 63 South Main Street
                 P.O. Box 5506
                 Newtown, CT  06470-9971

The magazine is an excellent publication, one I've enjoyed for several
years.  It is published 6 times per year, and a subscription costs about
$29 per year.  If you're interested, there is also an equally excellent
counter publication called Fine Homebuilding - at the same address.

Regards,
Todd

---
 . OLX 2.2 . Telemate - it's better than sex!    (Well...)  ;-)
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:06:41 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Labs

In article 54741@evolving.com, mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier) writes:
|>Kevin Maciunas writes:
|>
|>	Okay, so a 3.5 inch panel raising bit is dangerous.  What are the alternatives?
|>
|>	I have a new kitchen I want to redo, and thought about the 3.5 in bit
|>	myself.  It give a nicer profile than a table saw.
|>
|>Then Tom Perigrin writes:
|>: 
|>: Three is a new (?) product out called the "vertical panel raising" router bit.
|>: Instead of being 3.5 inches in dia,  it is 1.75 inches long and .75 in dia.
|>: Obviously the surface velocity at the outer edges is much less for this bit.
|>: With the big bit you run the router over the panel vertically, at a 90 deg
|>: angle to the face of the panel.  With the "vertical panel raising" bit, 
|>: you set the router up in a jig horizonatally, and run the panel under the bit.
|>: The axis of the bit is parallel to the face of the panel. You get the 
|>: same profile.   
|>: 
|>: Just proves that there is more than one way to rout a cat !!!
|>
|>So then Mark Frazier adds fuel:
|>
|>	This is only good if your raised panels are all straight. Which mine will
|>	not be. That's why I bought the other type of bit. The guy I'm about to
|>	build kitchen cabinets for wants curved tops on his doors, so you have to
|>	do it with the hand held router.

Not completely. If all the curves are convex, you can still "raise" 
the panel with the vertical bits.

But I think I would do this with the router mounted in the
mortising table (that I built from the WoodSmith plans) rather than
in a router table. That way the router, bit, and work piece are
all horizontal and the workpiece has good support from the table.


---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking