HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fitchitt@wam.umd.edu ()
Subject: Re: dead battery needed to pushstart
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 18:29:09 GMT

In article <77494@ut-emx.uucp> lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick) writes:
>In article <BsMFH6.K5E@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com> tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:

[stories and warnings deleted]

Since we are all telling stories....

I once ran a 200SX for two weeks with a "dead" battery (ie it wouldn't hold a
charge to save my life) Anyway, I was going home in a couple weeks when it
started to die where there was a good condition die-hard sitting around.

Push Parellel parking is indeed an art....

The area around where I was living was urban city and flat. It was NOT fun
running the car to 10mph and jumping in....

Even on the way to the battery I had to stop at a rest stop for gas... you
guessed it... Pushed my way out of the rest stop...

Must say, I probably built up my legs pretty good those two weeks.

A few years before that I had a  Volarie (plymoth) that had been in an
accident, it 270'd into a pole, hit right in front of the front right wheel.

Pushed the battery mount in about 8 inches... It worked ok after that, just
had this neat "bite" out of it... until it would decide to "explode"

All this smoke would come out of the engine bay, the smell of burnt wire and
ozone would be all overy^g`;u6l3#v, and of course the power steering and the
VERY neccessary power brakes (in face all power systems) would be out.

Turns out the hood had rumpled enough combined with the new battery position
for the hood to come down on both of the battery leads... All I ever did was
get a jump for about 4 of these "explosions" until I figured it out...

It was pretty scary when it happened once on I-95 going about 80 (flow of
traffic around there) and all systems shut down... this fool next to me paced
my as I'm ineffectually hitting the horn (no sound :(  ) and gestulating and
screaming widly for him to get the hell out of the way so I could pull over

I have no idea what the hell he was doing, but I couldn't brake enough to get
behind him.. .I finally just pulled over and let him decide why they hell he
was going 50 in the right lane and if I hit him, it was better than the guys
going 80 coming up on me... I have a feeling he saw all the smoke come out
of the engine bay and was trying to see if I was going to catch fire or
something.

Anyway, I came to rest behind a semi inbetween an exit and 95, he had
been given a truck with a stuck guage and empty tank....

I found out that trucks can give cars jump-starts (I had cables with me of
course) and I called his company to bring him gas for him...

By this time, enough lead had melted onto the hood for me to notice something

I was only 16 at the time, and completely car ignorant. That thing held up
to some vicious beatings. I can't belive it completely discharged that many
times and kept working (it was a die-hard battery too)

Since then, I always stick with Die-Hard batterys, if they went throught
that...

BTW The 200SX's battery had come with it, I think it was OE.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu)
Subject: Re: wattage
Reply-To: cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu)
Organization: NCAR / Scientific Computing Division, Boulder CO.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 14:50:42 GMT

In article <5443@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com>, simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
> In article <1992Aug11.154208.15915@ncar.ucar.edu>, cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cris Hannu) writes:
> > In article <kelley.713508186@cwis>, kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley) writes:
> > > okay, here is what i think to be a stupic question...but I need an
> > > answer...i was in an auto part store looking for driving lights...and I
> > > saw that they sold different wattage bulbs for the lights..all I need to
> > > know, what is the wattage of a normal hallogen head light...that way I
> > > know what driving lights to get...
> > > 
> > 55 watts is the *legal* maximum for street use.
> 
> Correct answer, but this is not the question that Sean asked.

  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ yes, this goes for halogen also (dual filament bulbs)
> 
> Old car headlights are 55 watts, the halogen ones are 35 watts. Both produce

  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ he specified halogen.              ^^^^^^^^ you can get
  halogen bulbs (like mine) as 85/115's (for my Hella z-beams) not just 35's, 
  hence (I assume) Seans question about the wattage.

> roughly the same amount of light, although the halogen lamp produces whiter
> light. Any law that regulates light output by wattage is simply stupid.

  I agree ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  Cris
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Subject: 1992 Toyota Corolla starting problem
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 08:04:34 GMT

Had an interesting experience recently.   Do a lot of business travel using 
hire cars, usual unit is a 1300 or 1600 Toyota Corolla manual with 12 valve 
engine.  No smog control devices and open road speed limit in S.A. is 
(officially 120 kph -- +\- 75 mph).
	Drove for about 500 km (300 miles) cruising at average 130kph (say 
80-85 mph), no stress no fuss with plenty of comparable cars whizzing past 
doing 140 kph or more.  Unit was new with under 18,000 km on the clock.  
Pulled in to fill up and wet the wall.  Engine was switched off for maybe 
ten minutes.   Got in and cranked engine.   Engine span and span but wouldn'
t start.   Tried all the recommended "hot start" routines listed in the 
driver's handbook.  Even had the bloody thing pushed to try and get it 
going.   Only after about 20 minutes: during which time found phone book and 
tried to get hire company on 0800 number -- one last try and "bingo" the 
engine fired.  Proceeded on my way at average speed of 120 kph with no 
further trouble.
	Another instance was back in 1988 when the 12 valve 1300 
Toyota Corrolla first came out.  I was in a real hurry and was low flying at 
around 85 - 90mph.   After travelling about 130 miles, the engine started 
cutting out and dying.  Would start again with no problem, back up to speed, 
then cutting out again.  Eventually, settled on a cruising speed of 110 - 
120 kph (68 - 75 mph) with no evidence of this problem reoccurring.   (Got 
to nearest hire car depot and switched units!!)

Questions:
1.
What are the most likely causes?   I stress that these were not old clunkers 
and were in good 6-month old shape.  Also the build quality of Toyotas in S.
A. is Very Good.   
2.
I have heard a rumour that the multi-valve Toyota engines are very hard on 
their spark plugs.   If this is true, could these problems be attributable 
to the plugs overheating?   But then again, by S.A. standards the speeds I 
was travelling at are quite normal (even conservative) for long distance 
motoring -- 140 -150 kph being quite common speeds for 1600cc engined cars.

Any comments/reactions.....?

Cheers,

Keith Coman
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fitchitt@wam.umd.edu ()
Subject: Re: Gas driers - which ones are bad?
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 20:24:15 GMT

In article <31160127@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, arup+@cs.cmu.edu (Arup Mukherjee) writes:
>
>>I remember reading (several months back) in this newsgroup that
>>certain types of gas line driers could be harmful to the fuel system 
>>because they contain some chemical that attacks rubber. It was also 
>>mentioned that other products that use some other chemical are safe. 
>>I was hoping that someone could remind me what the two chemicals in question
>>are.
>
>Many gas line drier products are just plain methanol, which can attact
>rubber and even metal.  The better products (though less frequently found)
>are isopropyl alcohol.  This stuff is more benign, and and carry more water
>as well.  It also is a good fuel injector cleaner

Rubbing Alcohol?

Would just putting some of that stuff in a car work to carry the water out?

Or at least a brand taht is 100% isoproply... seems pretty funny...
>
>Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
>"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
>                                       -G.K. Chesterton
>
From: dxs@evolving.com (Dan Stanger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: rodding a radiator
Date: 18 Aug 92 18:46:13 GMT
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.

has anyone ever rodded a radiator.  the radiator on my 56 chevy is
clogged and it needs to be cleaned.  i have heard that flushing and
cleaning with ultrasound can make it leak.  any truth to this rumor.
any info would be appreciated.
thanks
dxs@evolving.com
From: kts@beach.csulb.edu (Ken Sumida)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Richmond 6 speed gearbox
Date: 21 Aug 92 04:46:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cal State Long Beach

Hi everyone,

I jus received my copy of HOTROD magazine and inside there is an aticle about
the new Richmond 6 speed manual transmission coming out soon.  Does anyone out
there in NET have more informations about this gearbox?  The article states
that it is similar to the DNE 4+1 (Richmond bought he DNE) if the price is
right, I would like to put it in my '76 2Dr Nova with mouse engine (that's 350
cu Chevy V8 for those don't know the hotrod lingo).  Currently my car has CM
TH-350 auto tranny and I really like to convert it into a manual.  As far as I
know, DNE 4+1 will fit (with slight mod) but how about this 6 speed?  Can it
withstand the torque of V8 with nitro?  Any Info would be appreciated.

E-Mail is kts@beach.csulb.edu
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gas driers - which ones are bad?
Date: 18 Aug 92 22:59:23 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <Bt3vID.1Hp.1@cs.cmu.edu>, arup+@cs.cmu.edu (Arup Mukherjee) writes:
> 
> Hi,
> 	I remember reading (several months back) in this newsgroup that
> certain types of gas line driers could be harmful to the fuel system 
> because they contain some chemical that attacks rubber. It was also 
> mentioned that other products that use some other chemical are safe. 
> I was hoping that someone could remind me what the two chemicals in question
> are.

Here is some guidelines to start with.  Perhaps John De Armond
(jgd@dixie.comz) can varify/add to this.  He done some testing on the
effects on fuel injectors, etc..

For gas-line dryers:
OK = Isopropyl alcohol.
Avoid = ethanol and methanol.

The non-dryer type stuff for cleaning fuel systems:
OK = Naphtha, Toluene, Xylene, various ethers, 
Should be OK = Aromatic solvents, petroleum distilates.
               (This stuff could be many things but the families
                should be OK.)
Avoid? = Acetone, MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone.  (I'm not sure on this.)

Perhaps add this to the FAQ list.

> Also, on a separate note - can water in the gas cause pinging? (No, my car
> isn't pinging but...) I noticed that one of the brands of "dry gas" I looked
> at claimed to stop pinging...
No.  It stops pinging by slightly raising the octane rating with one
of it's additives or cleaning deposits off of various parts.

-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jack@eecs.nwu.edu (Kuo-Feng Liao)
Subject: a question about tires...
Keywords: tires...
Organization: EECS Department, Northwestern University
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:28:30 GMT

Sorry if this question is in FAQ (I coudln't find my copy of it).

I replaced four new tires for my Chevy Impala.  I remembered that the garage 
people told me the tires are rated "traction--A; temperature--A".   I just found 
that on the side of tire, it shows "traction--A; temperature--B", I asked the 
garage.  They said it's rare that passenger car use both rating A tires (high 
oerformance tires); which means the tire I have now is good enough.  (and it
shows "threadwear--420", is that good ?)   It's 205/75R from General, and costs 
$60 each (not including balancing).  Is the price reasonable ? 

Thank you !!


-- 
Kuo-Feng Liao
Northwestern University, Dept. of EECS
jack@eecs.nwu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 00:47:52 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand
Keywords: Collectors, Modifiers, & Pin Heads

In article <aNsmPB2w164w@cruiser.uucp> bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard) writes:
>brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>
>> In article <4808@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert) 
>> >In article <1992Aug12.063427.9552@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mf
>
>stuff deleted to save bandwidth...
>
>A point everyone seems to have missed is that for each car modified,
>the value of the unmodified cars increase.

Ditto for every car which crashes amd burns.

I would rather the value of my car stayed the same than have it increased
by either of these causes.

Mind you if it is not too badly crashed the availability of spare parts 
increases...

-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand --
From: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM (John Fox - SunExpress IR)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:21:29 GMT
Reply-To: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hooksett.east.sun.com

In article l956j6INN5o@male.EBay.Sun.COM, jimj@cleanplate.EBay.Sun.COM (James D. Jones) writes:
> In article <1992Aug19.161102.2821@morrow.stanford.edu> charlie@leland.Stanford.EDU (Charlie Channel, Jr.) writes:
> >
> >Ted is correct.  I onced owned a '65 Plymouth Valiant with a slant 6.
> >Virtually indestructable.  Witness the day my wife drove the thing
> >without water in the radiator, pulled into a gas station, turned off
> >the engine and then attempted to put water in the radiator.  The only
> >thing that cracked was the cast iron housing that attaches to the
> >block that covers the thermostat.  
> 
> A friend of mine had a Plymouth wagon with the same
> engine, same vintage. It was reliable, but the radiator was leaky.  
> More than once we pulled into gas stations on long road trips with the
> radiator bone dry.   He'd hose down the engine (tremendous clouds of
> steam), wait a minute, fill the radiator, and off we'd go.  Took two
> accidents to kill that car, and even then another '60s Plymouth owner avidly 
> scooped up the remains from him at a pretty respectable price.


I'll add my slant six story....
I had a 67 Dart which was a first car for myself and 2 older sisters.
The thing ran like a top. One day, leaving high school I'm about 20 miles
into a little excursion with a few buddies when I notice the temp gauge
a little high. We pull over and pop the hood. Something doesn't look right.
I see too much daylight. Ah, of course, the radiator is gone! No problem,
of course. Drive it home, then to the junkyard, then back home to pop
it in. A couple hours later, we're back on the road. The Dart took it all
in stride.

John
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gill@eagle (Warren Gill)
Subject: Re: quad4 head
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Organization: Sangamon State University
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 21:33:02 GMT

  My Olds H.O. Quad 4 has 52k with no problems yet;  I'd like to know more
about any problems - I sure hope mine doesn't develop any!

--
      ______                                                               
      )     (   Greetings from the Land of Lincoln                         
     /       |  Sangamon State University, Springfield, IL                 
    (        |                                                             
     \_  *   |                                                             
       \     |  Warren Gill, Microcomputer Software Specialist             
       /    /   Internet:  Gill@Eagle.Sangamon.edu                         
        \/\/                                                               
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: agwiii@fang.att.com (Grayson Walker (660-7949)(12/92))
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Organization: AT&T Tax Systems Development, Maitland FL
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 17:44:15 GMT

For easy access, it is hard to beat the Triumph TR 2,3,4 line.
Easy to reach the mechanical bits and not much need to reach them
very often. Even the body panels come off with just a screw-driver.
(The engine was, after all, taken from the Standard Tractor.)
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 tr3 no engine go jap
Date: 13 Aug 92 17:27:38 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org writes:

re: TR-somethingorother

>   Again, try talking to someone who owns one with the original 
>engine. Remember, this car is 35 years old, and most like it have 
>the original engines in them. Don't sound all that unreliable to 
>me...

I heard that the reason british sports cars have two seats is so the 
full time mechanic will have a place to sit between repairs.  Sounds
credible to me.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: babineau@spxtech.qc.ca (Andre Babineau)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help for My '85 Colt Turbo
Date: 14 Aug 92 15:31:24 GMT
Organization: Securiplex Technologies Inc., Montreal, Canada
X-Bytes: 1014

From article <1992Aug12.155833.7672@lucid.com>, by keith@lucid.com (Keith Thesing):
> My '85 Colt Turbo has 145,000 miles on it.  It runs great when
> cold but as soon as it warms up all the way it starts to buck a
> bit and then if you kill the engine and let it sit, forget it,
> the thing won't even start.  I think that it is getting fuel
> cause I can smell the stuff as I'm trying to start it up.  My
> feeling is that it's some type of ignition problem.  Anyway I've
> had it to 2 shops, including the dealer and they can't figure
> this thing out.  $400 later I have no solution.  Got any ideas?
> 
> Keith-

For me it looks like you got a vapor lock problem. I had a similar
problem on my '82 scirocco and I got it fixed by installing a
new pressure regulator. Another problem could be a small gas leak
from your injector that grows when the engine gets warmer and warmer.

Good luck.

Andre Babineau,                 Securiplex Technologies Inc.
babineau@spxtech.qc.ca          Montreal, Quebec   CANADA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 18:16:11 GMT

>
>>I'm starting a new survey.
>>
>>What makes and models of cars are - in your opinion - best designed
>>in the sense of:
>>
>>   a). Easy routine maintenance...
>>   b). Easy repair...
>>
>>...at home (i.e. without a hoist and fancy tools)?
>>
>>I'll post the summary. Hope to hear from you all home mechanics.

I'd vote for FORD trucks first, then Chevy trucks.  (the full size
ones)
From: tom_santos@taligent.com (Tom Santos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Date: 19 Aug 92 16:45:13 GMT
     <31160128@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> <1992Aug18.220346.1276@gasco.com>
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1

Re: Spark plug wire help

In article <1992Aug18.220346.1276@gasco.com> Eric Hutchinson x1589,
eeh@gasco.uucp writes:
>No plug wires. Hmmmmm, just what powers this thing.  This might have an
affect
>on performance. 
 
My computer directly sends signals to the coils... no distributor.  Just
a few small-gauge wires coming from the coils.  Freaked me out when I
found out.

--Tom--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: paul@xcluud.sccsi.com (Paul Hutmacher)
Subject: Re: Locks for doors without locks.
Organization: Greater Montrose UFO Appreciation Society & Data Haven
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 02:12:36 GMT

In article <BtC4F4.z1@news.larc.nasa.gov> DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox) writes:
>1988 Jeep Wrangler Soft Top . . . No factory installed locks.
>
>Last night some &$*(^*&%&^ got into my Jeep and rifled through my center 
>console and glove box.

Nice people eh?  I've had that happen before.  I lost a vanity mirror on the
passenger visor and a flashlight from the console.

>BTW . . . I know that once I put locks on the doors, the next &$*(^*&%&^ 
>might just cut the roof.  Also, an alarm might solve my problems but I'm 
>still interested in stopping the small time &$*(^*&%&^ who just break into 
>anything unlocked.

I think any locks on a rag top are a big mistake.  I solved my problem
(sorta) buy buying an alarm with one of those doppler radar thingies that
detect an intrusion.  I guess they're the same as the motion detectors that
turn security lights on and off.  I also lock my center console and have a
slide out radio.  If I leave my Jeep parked for more than a day or so I usually
take everything out of it to make sure.

Get one of the good aftermarket locking consoles and an alarm if you wish.
Door locks on soft tops are just asking for trouble.

-- 
"There is nothing to history.  No progress,          | Paul Hutmacher 
 no justice. There is nothing but random horror."    | Houston, Texas
"Jupiter" in _The Difference Engine_ Gibson/Sterling | paul@xcluud.sccsi.com
From: jbc@linus.mitre.org (John B. Campbell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Natural Gas Power - Good or Bad???
Date: 20 Aug 92 16:54:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA


In article <1992Aug19.224922.8658@gasco.com> eeh@gasco.uucp writes:

[.....] answering an original posting inquiring about powering with
natural gas . . . . 

>   > My father has been eagerly looking into buying a new diesel pickup (probably
>   > a 1-ton extended cab for pulling a 5th wheel trailer), but keeps delaying
>   > because each maker seems to keep coming out with a "better" diesel engine.
>   > 
>   > Now he has heard that Chevy is coming out with a Natural Gas truck, and
>   > he is very interested in it.  Being ignorant to this technology, we'd 
>   > sure like to hear about all the plusses and minuses.
>   > 
>
>
>   Not being a garage jockey I can only answer based on what I've heard around
>   our office.  In answer to your questions:
>
>   1)  It should be cheaper simply because natural gas is a less expensive fuel.
>       Mileage is about the same per gallon but the fuel cost less per gallon.

[....]

Natural gas is cheaper partly because at the present time, it is not
burdened with the automotive fuel taxes that enrich the coffers of
both
Federal and State highway trust funds.  When the politicians notice
that fact they will be quick to tax natural gas fuel, and make
it illegal to use untaxed fuel in a vehicle, the same as
they make it illegal to use heating fuel in your diesel
powered vehicle.


--
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