HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Doug.Hemken@launchpad.unc.edu (Doug Hemken)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: new bonehead topic
Date: 6 Jan 93 23:53:01 GMT
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service

In article <1993Jan6.193753.29638@nas.nasa.gov> eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya) writes:
>>>Topic: Is climbing becoming overrun with boneheads
>
>Climbing is what climbers do.
>

That pretty much some it up!  Unfortunately, not all people who climb do
what I do.  Those people who climb for reasons for which I have no respect
are first class boneheads.

And the world is overrun with boneheads.


-=> Doug Hemken
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: davin@hardy.u.washington.edu (David Veale)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Belaying
Date: 8 Jan 1993 23:51:31 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: hardy.u.washington.edu

bhilden@bigriver.Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Hildenbrand) writes:

>In article <1ikh0pINNqep@bmsrs.usc.edu> degennar@bmsrs.usc.edu (Ray) writes:
>>I
>>>I guess I'm still searching for the perfect belay appliance.
>>
>>Try an ATC (bu Black Diamond)

>Which were recently recalled by Black Diamond due to burring of the
>metal which may cause rope damage during use.

>Bruce
This rumor came up a little while ago, and a few people called Bd and
found it to be nothing more than a rumor, or at least that's what I gathered.
I've had no problems with mine, and it has no burs.
From: L.Dekker@cs.ucl.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: London Climbing Walls
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:52:18 GMT

Chris, 

There are three different climbing walls in London (there might 
be a few more) that I use, depending on how I feel.
The biggest, and the best in most ways, where the largest 
number of serious climbers hang out is: 

           North London Rescue Commando (!) 
           Cordova Road (off Grove Road)
           Mile End 
           London

A smaller place, but with a highish competition wall is at: 

           Sobell Centre 
           Isledon Road (I think)
           Holloway/Finsbury Park

And there's a really small wall, but good in its own way (more
authentically rock-like, and with some good overhangs) at:

           Crystal Palace Sports Complex

Have a good visit!

                 Laura
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: nancy@wilbur.coyote.trw.com (Nancy Jensen)
Subject: Re: All you wanted to know about Jtree but forgot to ASk
Organization: TRW Inc., Redondo Beach, CA
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:34:24 GMT

brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky) writes:


> Last fall I posted a question asking about routes to 10d at Jtree. With
>all the recent requests I decided to post the list. The following people
>contributed to the list, Ron Olsen, Dave Noir, Steve Waltman, Ray
>somewhere in Colorado, and Me. 

>Food place not to be missed Edchadas Mexican in 29 palms. There ia also a movie

It's actually in Yucca Valley.  Great place.

>	The rock climbing shop in 29 Palms has good prices and is worth a

Try Nomad Ventures, in the town of Joshua Tree, right at the turn-off to
the monument.

>[lots of excellent route recommendations deleted]

-Nancy
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: what mits are good?
Date: 5 Jan 1993 21:52:19 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com

David,

I just bought a pair of Ragged Mountain GoreTex overmits (similar to Climb High) and used them ice climbing this past weekend. It was quite cold in NH so I had dachsteins under them.

The mits provided a fairly good feel when gripping ice tools. I did remove the foam fingertip pieces in each to improve my dexterity when placing and removing (not dropping!) ice screws.

They cost $47 and were on a 20% off sale so I paid about $37 for them at the Ragged Mountain Shop. All in all, I give em 7 out of 10 rating for functionality.

However, I have a rule that says never pay more for a pair of overmittens, gaiters, etc. than you do for an ice tool, So I'm a bit biased I guess.


Chris Brown
From: stanford@aster (Adam Stanford)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Belaying
Date: 9 Jan 1993 00:14:17 GMT
Organization: /etc/organization
NNTP-Posting-Host: aster.berkeley.edu

I have had no problems with my ATC either.


Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: gnray@world.std.com (Garry N Ray)
Subject: Re: TCU's vs. Friends
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:53:30 GMT

Also, there are "tri-cam UNITS" and Lowe Tricams. TCUs like Metolius are
like Friends but have three cams instead of four. You know what Tricams are.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: plim@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu (plim)
Subject: Where is the climbing wall in NYC?
Organization: NYU Medical Center, New York, NY 10016, USA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 19:33:03 GMT

Where is the climbing wall in NYC?
Xref: sparky rec.climbing:5141 rec.backcountry:10028
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Distribution: world
From: Terry_D._Meyer@tcs.las-vegas.nv.us
Organization: Cyber Sanctum
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1993 11:24:45 PST
Subject: Ouray,CO Ice Climbing

I'm going to a Vertical Ice and Snow Gully Rescue Seminar in Ouray in February
and I'd appreciate any suggestions on the area.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: colby@oahu.cs.ucla.edu (Kenneth Colby)
Subject: WARNING!  Stress fractures in CAMELOTS
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 93 02:41:17 GMT

I have a double set of CAMELOTS and have been using them for 2-3 years.

One day, at the base of a cliomb in J-Tree, it was pointed out to me

  THAT THERE ARE CRACKS IN THE ALLOY SLEEVES HOLDING THE LOAD-BEARING
  WIRES!!?!!

  The sleeves in question are between the inner an outer cams of the 
  device.

  The stress fractures occur parallel to the cams, and emanate from
  the hole where the load-bearing wire comes through.  I have three
  cams (out of four) that have this problem.  Frankly, this
  condition scares the shit out of me.  The cracks vary in length,
  but some are almost to the outer edge of the sleeve.

  A friend of mine, who works for one of the big mail-order
  climbing outfitters, called Black Diamond and talked to a rep.

  His response concerns me!  He says that "this problem is known,
  and is not a cause for concern, because the fractures (cracks)
  do not occur along the load bearing axis of the device".
  (not a direct quote, but gets to the point of the matter).

  This I cannot believe, If a big fall were to occur (sorry lots of
  definitions of what a big fall is!) then it is conceivable that
  the alloy sleeve will part and allow the load-bearing wire
  to go through, causing ... well you know... (know I don't want to
  know).

  Please, comments from people who have experienced this problem,
  and people who are those geniuses  that understand the physics
  of the matter and can explain it to us who are not!

  Pete Colby  (simple AI programmer and wannabe climber)
  colby@cs.ucla.edu


Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: sean@Wolf.Ocean.Dal.Ca (Sean Willett)
Subject: Re: Belaying
Organization: Dalhousie University
Distribution: w
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:52:01 GMT

In article <C0Ew6D.I3s.2@cs.cmu.edu> cline+@cs.cmu.edu (Kenneth Cline) writes:
>
>has the advantage of keeping rope/grip in locked off position most of
>the time.
>

There is a problem with keeping a belay in a locked-off position. It makes
it impossible to provide a dynamic belay (letting some rope slip through
to catch a fall slowly).  In this modern day of unbreakable ropes most climbers
pay no attention to dynamic belays, but they should. Totally static belays,
as result from a locked-off belay plate or a Petzl Gri-Gri, put enormous force
on protection anchors during leader falls.  Any theoretical treatise on
belaying and the resulting forces concludes that belays should always be
dynamic.

If you think this is an academic question, pick up any issue of Accidents
in North American Mountaineering and see how many accidents are the result of
failed protection.  Many of these have been linked to static belays.

Ed Leeper has done much research on this problem and is a strong proponent
of dynamic belays.  I was very impressed that he actually took out an ad
in Climbing (or Rock and Ice?) a couple months ago stating that he would
not guaranty any of his gear if it was used with a Gri-Gri.

Of course dynamic belays are not important in toproping and rarely important
in sport climbing with fat bolt pro and clearly dropping a falling climber is
the greater of two evils. For this reason, beginners are not or should not be
bothered with learning dynamic belaying.  But in belaying a leader using
gear, some thought should be given to a dynamic belay.

From: scochran@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Steve Cochran)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:45:41 GMT
Subject: Re: what mits are good?
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing

/ hpmwgip2:rec.climbing / davin@hardy.u.washington.edu (David Veale) /  7:35 pm  Jan  4, 1993 /

I have a pair of the Climb High overmits and would recommend them to anyone.
I had one experience in which I was on a glacier for several days during
an ice climbing course.  During the first 3 days, it rained about 70% of the
time.  The only moisture entering the glove was due to repeated hand removal
(bare hands would get wet and then would transfer moisture to the glove 
interior).  Me and one of my classmates had the Climb Highs and managed to
keep our hands pretty dry.  Everyone else's gloves got soaked enough to
complain out loud.

SC


Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: Barry Norval Campbell <NorvalC@QUCDN.QueensU.CA>
Subject: Climbing in Costa Rica
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A76DACA164015ACE@earl-mac206.biol.queensu.ca>
X-Xxdate: Mon, 4 Jan 93 13:58:09 GMT
Organization: Molecular Ecology Laboratory, Queen's University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 13:56:46 GMT

I am going to south west Costa Rica in February of 1993 and have heard
that there is climbing in Chirripo National Park.  Does anyone have more
information about climbing in that area of Costa Rica?  (ie.  areas,
routes, rating, etc.)  Even third hand information would be useful. 
Thanks in advance.

Barry Campbell
Queens University in Kingston
Email:  Norvalc@QUCDN.QueensU.CA
From: 47.366::opland@fishery.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Info on Mountaineering Boots.
Date: 12 Jan 1993 16:51:53 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

I am interested in getting more alpine in my climbing endeavors to 
compliment my rock climbing. Due to the marked lack of snow in the
Phoenix area (northern Arizona nonwithstanding), equipment (information
and gear) for snow and ice climbing is hard to come by in the local
shops.

I would be interested in hearing information/opinions/experiences
concerning leather vs. plastic mountaineering boots...as well as
maybe pros and cons of different models of boots.

Thanks in advance.

Greg O.

p.s. my e-mail is trashed at the moment so please post replies.
From: runnels@ut-emx.uucp (Scott Runnels)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Info. requested on climbing in Peru
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:49:51 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin; Austin, Texas


     I am planning on going to Peru to climb Huascaren,
Alpamayo, and Huandoy in June/July of this year and am looking
for information on routes, who the best porters (or companies
for hiring porters) are, and whether the political situation
in the Cordillera Blanca is stable.  I'd also welcome
information on food for expeditions (whether to take it from
the states or buy it in Peru) and what are good climbing
guidebooks for the area.  If you have any info on
climbing/trekking in the Cordillera Blanca region of Peru,
please respond.  Thanks
From: stephen@physics1 (Stephen Ross )
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Gaithersburg, Maryland and the number 666
Date: 7 Jan 1993 18:03:13 GMT
Organization: /etc/organization
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: physics1.berkeley.edu


Greetings!

I have recently received a job offer from NIST in Gaithersburg, Maryland,
and am very tempted by the science. However, as this group will 
understand, am a bit worried about climbing. Well, more than a bit 
worried. 

Just how ugly is this? Am I going to be staring at my porta-ledge with 
tears in my eyes every night, setting it up in the tree out in the back
yard? How far is the New River Gorge? 

In addition, just how much of a suburban hell is Gaithersburg? Do I have to 
go a the mall to buy everything?

Tell, tell!

Stephen







Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU (wayne trzyna)
Subject: Re: new topic
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 21:08:01 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Computer Science Department

In article <1993Jan6.193753.29638@nas.nasa.gov> eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya) writes:
>
>Daring?  Glamorous thrill seeking?
>I got into climbing precisely because it lacked "image."

There's a tourist brochure in Ouray, refering to ice climbers as "zany
adventurers."  Now there's an image.  How about "hungry, freezing,
exhausted adventurers?"  Or driving back to Denver at 4:00am: "zombie
adventurers?"  Or just plain "idiots:" that's a popular image, especially
applied to the unfortunates who injure or kill themselves.

>What differs right now is that people are kinda fed up with their lives
>and some of them wish to take an avocation and turn it into a vocation

... or their vacation into a vocation.

>Climbing is what climbers do.

I do it 'cause I'm bored.

...not to mention, I'm no good at golf.


-- 

-Wayne Trzyna
 trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: gnray@world.std.com (Garry N Ray)
Subject: Re: what mits are good?
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:50:10 GMT

I have Climb High, and they seem pretty durable, with good gripping.
Before buying, try them on (as with any other overmitts) with the full
ensemble of liner gloves and mittens. The Climb High shells seem to run a
bit on the small side. 

Additional tip - just bought a bag of a dozen vinyl work gloves at the local
K-Mart for $2.49 for use as vapor barrier liners. Another alternative for
VBL is diswashing gloves. They're more durable.
From: jthoj@lhdsy2.lahabra.chevron.com (Chris J. Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: London climbing wall?
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:03:28 GMT

I'm travelling to London, England for a week or two at the end of the
month. I'm hoping to get my climbing fix somehow, despite being
stuck in the Marble Arch area (W1). Can anyone tell me please if
there are any climbing walls nearby (or even "far"-by!)? If the rash
of climbing walls that has hit the States hasn't hit reached UK yet I
guess I'll have to settle for buidering in the rain in a pair of
soggy wool socks!

Thanks in advance,
      Chris

*****************************************************************************
*   Chris Thompson               Chevron Oil Field Research Co.             *
*   tel (310) 694-9139           1300 S Beach Blvd. La Habra, California    *
*   fax       694-7063     Mail:   P.O. Box 446, La Habra, CA 90633-0446    *
*   e-mail:  jthoj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com                               *
*****************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: sean@Wolf.Ocean.Dal.Ca (Sean Willett)
Subject: Re: Belaying
Organization: Dalhousie University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:05:37 GMT

There are two hand sequences commonly used in belaying: the "hand slide"
and the "hand walk". The hand slide involves bring the ropes together,
holding both ropes in the guiding hand and sliding the brake hand back towards
the belay device. Assuming a right handed belay, the hand walk involves moving
the left hand to the braking side (right) of the belay, holding the braking
rope while the right hand comes off the rope and moves over the left to grab
the rope closer in.  This presumably is what Ken refers to as "switching hands".

I would be surprised to hear that any organization has endorsed one method
over the other, since, since unlike testing gear, belaying is highly dependent
on the individual and both techniques are safe if done properly.

The Ontario Rock Climbing Association, which tests techniques and recommends
standards finds both acceptable, although they note that there is more
potential for error with the hand walk. They recommend the hand slide for
teaching beginners, and having done some teaching, I concur. Beginners tend to
get confused more easily with the hand walk.
From: lkampf@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: re:sport climbing
Date: 8 Jan 93 15:03:26 EST
Organization:  Wright State University 

You mean climbing is a sport!!??
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Climbing trip to somewhere warm?
Date: 11 Jan 1993 17:05:27 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com

Jeff,

I'd suggest you go to Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands ASAP. Head for an area called "The Baths." Great bouldering (5.3-510) and tropical weather. An old Patagonia catalog cover photo shows Lynn Hill bouldering in a bathing suit in the tropics -- it was shot at The Baths in VG.

An added advantage . . . some of best snorkling in the Virgins.

Send me a post card.
CB
From: maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu (Mark Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing in eastern Germany
Date: 11 Jan 93 23:20:45 GMT

Can anyone out there give an update to the state of climbing
in eastern Germany?  Back when there was a DDR, the climbing
in Dresden was legendary for sustained difficulty and long, long
runouts.  

Have the rules banning metallic protection been removed?
Is everything getting bolted out?  Thanks,

--maarrrk
From: 47.366::opland@fishery.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Test Post
Date: 12 Jan 1993 12:02:36 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Sorry about the wasted space...just
checking out if I can post to rec.climbing
or not...

G.
From: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM (Chris Brown - SunSelect Operations)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: munros over Christmas
Date: 6 Jan 1993 14:34:26 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: islesboro.east.sun.com

John,

Been hearing bad things over here about the oil spill on your N. coast. Sounds all too familiar -- a beautiful natural area, an accident that "could not" happen, an industry clean up effort that was totally inadequate.

One side effect of our Alaska spill, however, was that it provided employment for some area climbers. The bloody oil company hired them to scrub oil off rocks along the shore of Prince William Sound and to gather dead wildlife. A hell of a way to make a living, eh?

 Good luck (and shoot the captain),

Chris Brown

From: jaym@hplsla.hp.com (Jay Miazga)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:25:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Belaying
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.climbing

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
The hand sliding method seems to be a holdover from the days of the
body belay.  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


It may also come from the use of Munter hitches.  This is
another case where parallel ropes isn't a large concern
because the Munter's ability to brake isn't terribly dependent
on the angle the rope leaves the device at.

This is the reason the Mountaineers teach and use the Munter
hitch in their Basic Climbing classes.  They teach hand sliding
and insist that the braking hand never leave the rope.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Subject: Re: star, sun, and/or moon sliver molds
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 19:23:43 GMT

cordova@univrs.rdd.lmsc.lockheed.com (Cordova) writes:

>Hi, I'm trying to find a star, a sun and sliver of the moon molds for
>a handmade paper project I have planned. 
>Does anyone have an idea of where I might find such things? I'm looking for
>molds that are less than a foot in diameter. So far I've only found a
>man-in-the-moon cake mold at a local kitchen supply place.

What you describe certainly sounds like a cake mould. Most kitchen shops
only keep popular moulds. I suggest you look in the Yellow Pages under
"Cake Decoration Instruction and Supplies". They usually keep more
unusual shapes - may even hire them out.

Sally 

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.photo
From: yu@cvdv72.mayo.edu ()
Subject: Re: X-Large photo folders / organizers
Reply-To: syu@mayo.edu
Organization: Mayo Clinic, Rochester, MN
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 15:22:11 GMT


--
In article <1993Jan4.110344.11230@news.cs.indiana.edu>, "angela allen" <angie@cs.indiana.edu> writes:
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc,rec.photo
From: "angela allen" <angie@cs.indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: X-Large photo folders / organizers
Organization: Computer Science, Indiana University
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 11:03:35 -0500

veatch@cs.toronto.edu ("Tim Veatch") writes:

>I've been looking out for some large photo folders
>for putting my photos in.  I don't want the the photo sheets that
>have the pockets for the various sizes of pictures.
>I want to be able to arrange the pictures and other misc stuff
>however I like.  I think they call these sheets "magnetic" sheets,
>for whatever reason, I don't know.  (They have a sticky surface
>to attach the picture to and a clear plastic that goes on top)

  I think what you have in mind are photo albums or scrapbooks by Webway.
They are expandable albums and you can get *PRESS-N-STICK* filler sheets
for them.  They are somewhat pricey though.  Albums cost upwards of $25
and fillers sheets >$11 for a pack of 5.  If you cannot find them locally,
you can write to:
                   The Holes-Webway Co
                   Box 767, Dept CS
                   St. Cloud, MN 56302


*******************************************************************************
Shu-Hon Yu                                   Internet: syu@mayo.edu
Mayo Clinic                                  Voice: (507) 255-6664
200 First Street SW                          FAX: (507) 255-5484
Mail Stop 2D-336 STM            
Rochester, MN  55905            
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: stavros@agora.rain.com (Steve Culliton)
Subject: Re: bubbles in candels
Organization: Open Communications Forum
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 22:03:03 GMT

In article <19549.2b4d7847@ecs.umass.edu> bozek@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>We have been making pyramids and tetrahedrals using sheet
>metal molds. they are comming out well but they have lots
>of bubbles. My best guess is that the wax has impurities
>in it?
>Wax temperature could be a problem (no themometer) but
>even letting the wax heat up for a Long time still
>results in bubbles.

Stop being so cheap, and get a candy thermometer.  Don't pour the wax so hot.
If one of the bubbles you are complaining about is that cavity you get in the
center, you have to poke down through it with a narrow tool, and pour more wax
into it.  TTFN




>
>Does anyone know how to make candels with out bubbles?
>
>thanks
>David 
>
>bozek@umaecs.edu