HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

>   1) Will I cause more severe problems letting them run the car with
>      the EGR system disabled?

Probably not, my 260Z went for several years with a bad EGR valve, ( they only
test CO and HC here ).  The car ran fine.
	
>   2) Without the EGR, are CO and hydrocarbons affected or is it just
>      NOx that goes up?

Mostly NOx, but the mixture will be richer without the exhaust gas.

>   3) Could it have a plugged catalytic converter which is forcing
>      more exhuast back through the valve than the engine is carbureted
>      for?
	
Probably not, you'd notice major power loss, even with the EGR unplugged.

>   4) Could it be just a carburetor problem?

Yes, or a vacuum leak.  Also make sure all the controls, electrical and vacuum
are connected correctly and functional.  My Z had a bad relay so it got EGR 
while cold which caused symptoms similar to yours.

Greg Hughes	gmh@fc.hp.com
From: garyg@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Gary Gitzen)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 02:17:40 GMT
Subject: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Hi,

Does anyone know of a mail_order source for 90/130W H4 headlight bulbs?
The brightest I can find locally or mail_order are 80/100W, and I'd really
like to have the extra wattage.

Thanks for any help.

Gary <garyg@cup.hp.com> San Jose, CA
From: paul@alantec.com (G. Paul Ziemba)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Symtoms: vibrations on accel, decel = bad driveshaft?
Date: 12 Jan 93 22:46:39 GMT

geoffs@eecs270.engin.umich.edu (Geoffrey M Silverton) writes:

>My car seems to vibrate badly when accelerating and decelerating
>at speeds over 25MPH.  Especially decelerating.  It vibrates in 
>normal driving at speeds 25...65 MPH and at 80+ MPH.  Shifting into 
>neutral (at highway speed) and varying engine speed does not change 
>the vibrations.

Could this be a bad universal joint?

 ~!paul
-- 
Paul Ziemba  paul@alantec.com	alantec!paul  408.955.9000 x227

"The first TV I ever owned...I threw from a third story window at a burglar"
 - sjackson@parc.xerox.com
From: vlj@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Victor Johnson)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 20:10:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Slick 50
Organization: Dances with Hawks
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

>Stephen Early writes:

>>SEBASTIAN writes:
>>Has anyone ever used SLICK 50 ? 
>>If so, does it do what the bottle says it should do?
> 
> Your question has been debated at great length here so I'll summarize and 
> hopefully prevent you from having to follow a month long thread.
> 
> 1.  Many people feel S50 works because their gas milege went up or their
>     vehicle has better acceleration or their vehicle starts easier.

  Placebo effect.

> 2.  Many people feel S50 does nothing good or bad but is simply a waste of 
>     money.

  Read the August 1991 issue of Road Rider (Motorcycle Consumer News)
  article called "Snake Oil".

> 3.  Many people feel S50 harms the vehicle by blocking oil passages, oil
>     filters or some other undesireable effect.
> 
> SUMMARY
> 
>     No one has yet supplied any documentation that S50 does damage.

  Again, read the RR article.

>
>     Some have supplied documentation that S50 does work.

  Odd.  The RR guys couldn't find ANY.

>     Some have argued quite convincingly that S50 cannot work.
> 
> OPINION
> 
>     As a former S50 user I wouldn't spend the money.  Instead, just change
>     your oil at regular intervals and perform regular maintenence.
> 
> Steve

  I share Steve's opinion.  The most effective lubrication job S50 does
  is sliding $$s out of your pocket and not much more.

  Cheers,
  Victor "Dances with Hydrodynamics" Johnson
  ------------------------------------------

From: david@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 04 Jan 93 19:02 CST
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 3rd time's a charm!
Message-ID: <107200004@trsvax>
Nf-ID: #N:trsvax:107200004:000:460
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!david    Jan  4 19:02:00 1993


      It was in one of those hotrod magazines that I ran across a short 
      blurb about grate kits from GM. Apparently one can purchase a 
      turn-key kit (from GM) that will allow you to upgrade your 85-89
      Camero V-6 to an emission legal 350 LT-1! It seemed to include
      everything down to the exhaust hangers.
	 1. Does this exist?
	 2. Does anybody buy it?
	 3. I forgot


	 Ya'll be good!                    DISCLAIMER:
					     I forgot!

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17400 rec.autos:30930 rec.autos.driving:7410 rec.autos.sport:13243
From: george@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu (George Jefferson -Bassani)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos.sport
Subject: Re: Stock Cars
Date: 4 Jan 93 22:32:25 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Laboratory for Research on the Structure of Matter, University of Pennsylvania

:I want to drive stockcar but I don't
:know how to get in it. 

usually, the doors are welded shut, so you have to climb through
the window.

-- 
george     --    george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
From: mikes@tellabs.com (Michael D. Schwartz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tires: BFGoodrich vs. Goodyear
Date: 7 Jan 93 18:50:08 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle,IL

In article <1993Jan5.160238.25695@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> Al Mark <amark@inst-sun1.jpl.nasa.gov> writes:
>Don't fall into the trap of looking for tires with higher treadwear
>ratings.  These ratings are determined by the tire manufacturer....there
>are no comparitive standards in the tire industry.  Generally, the tire
>manufacturer is honest, however treadwear is related to
>"softness/hardness" of the tire.....i.e., the lower the rating the
>"softer" the rubber compund.  The "softer" the tire, the more adhesion. 

The above warnings notwithstanding, I am very happy with the 225/60R15 BFG
Comp T/A VR4's that I put on my 1990 SHO. They are very capable of keeping
up with the power and handling stresses of the SHO and my driving.

The GT+4's on the 1991 SHO have a unidirectional tread pattern and are 16"
tires, but here are my impressions. The BFGs are quieter, better riding, and
have better traction in the rain and snow than the GT+4's that originally came
on my car. A friend here is also very happy with a set of Yokohama AVS U+4
215/65R15 on his '90. I don't know of anyone who has gotten new tires on a '91
yet. Given my experience with the BFGs, I would recommend them to anyone
looking to replace the Goodyears that are original equipment on the SHO.
-- 
-

------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Schwartz     **    
Tellabs, Inc.     **   
Lisle, IL         **  
------------------------------------------------------------------
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Wheel Bearings
Date: 8 Jan 93 13:59:49 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


    I just replaced the wheel bearing assembly on my '90 Cavalier. My son 
hit the curb and bent the rim and wrecked the bearing giving me the
dubious opportunity to find out that you don't just replace the bearing
but the complete hub unit ($114 Cdn inc. tax :-(). Two of my manuals
give instructions on replacing the bearing unit and everything went fine
until I tried to replace the seal and o-ring in the steering knuckle.
This seal pushes in from the back of the knuckle but the end of the drive
shaft is projecting through the knuckle effectively stopping me from 
slipping the seal into the back. I can't move the drive shaft back far
enough to allow access to the rear of the steering knuckle without removing
the knuckle itself.
    Am I missing something? I don't want to have this expensive bearing
unit fail because of corrosion because I didn't replace a cheap seal.

                                 Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:35:47 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.233442.7561@wixer.cactus.org> will@wixer.cactus.org (Bill Staniewicz) writes:

>I was just watching C-span today and they featured a
>soviet engine company on the Moscow Evening News.

>They produce air-cooled diesel engines that are claimed
>to out perform the liquid cooled variety and can operate
>at extremely high and low temperatures. Also, they are
>supposed to be cheaper.

>Did anyone see this program and have any comments to these
>claims? Also, would anyone know the name of this company
>and some information about the engines?

didn't see the program... but doesn't sound like anything new...  the U.S.
imported Soviet-made farm tractors (Belarus) powered by air-cooled Diesels back
in the early 1970s...  also, a little earlier, Deutz tractor were imported from
W. Germany -- these were powered by an aircooled Diesel that used *no*
headgasket which bears a *striking* outward resemblance to the Belarus engine.
I don't know for certain whether Belarus purchased Deutz engines, however.  But
in the time that has elapsed, the Soviets *certainly* could have tooled-up and
be building copies of the Deutz engine, anyway.

Actually, aircooling of a Diesel makes sense... a properly designed Diesel will
reject very little waste heat compared to a gas-pig (lower internal losses due
to lower piston speed, etc...).

Walt K.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: spowers@spdg.com (Steve Powers)
Subject: Re: Advice needed on P'up purchase
Organization: Stratos Product Development Group (Seattle)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 19:08:11 GMT

In article <a502hqh@rpi.edu> root@june.cmp.rpi.edu (J.R. Ordon) writes:
>I'm looking to replace my old,old pickup ('74 dodge W200 318V8)
>with a newer one.
>
>My needs are: 
>
>               1. towing capacity for 2200lbs ('18 skiboat)
>               2. extended Cab (jump seats for kiddies)
>               3. Good MPG
>
>               4WD would be nice but NOT neccessary
>
> [ lines deleted ]
>
>Ideally, I'd like these with a V6, but If I had to get a 4cyl, which
>pickup/engine combo would be best for trailer towing???
>

Based upon 1 and 3 above, forget the 4 cylinder engine. Firstly, the mileage
isn't any worse on my '88 Ranger 4WD with a 6 cylinder engine than it ever
was with my '86 Ranger 4WD with the 4 cylinder engine. In fact, the mileage
is generally better with the 6 cylinder engine where I travel (the mountains).

Pulling a load put more strain on the engine, a bigger one will take it better
and should last longer than a smaller one. You will be pushing the pedal further
to the floor for a 4 cyl motor than a 6 cyl one.

If you end up with an automatic, you should install a transmission cooler if
one does not exist already. Again, it will protect your equipment. The stick
version should be okay as is if you are easy on the clutch.

your mileage may vary

- steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: murray_t@wizard.colorado.edu
Subject: Rust Neutralizer?
Organization: UMS
Date: 11 JAN 93 12:38:44 MST

I have some rust on my '62 Studebaker Lark that I need to deal with and
I'd like comments on some of the rust neutralizing products on the market.
These products chemically alter the rust into a sandable/paintable compound.
Has anyone had any experience with this?  Are some brands better that others?
Where can these products be purchased?

Thanks,

Todd Murray
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: RFI: Regappable Platinium Plugs
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:05:58 GMT


I have not had MANY experiences, but with the 231ci in my Regal, I
took them out at the 15k interval and they were just as worn as the factory
plugs.  I noticed no improvement in behavior at all, but no decline
in performance either.

If its worth noting, my motorcycle had a fouling problem, and when I
tried a Bosch Platinum, it actually fouled out very much sooner than
the Champions I usually use.

So basically, I don't believe in them.
I have never seen a plug last 60k ----in an older carbuerated car.

-steve
-- 
"If I wanted your criticism....it was in my former life."
Steven J Orlin                   /\  /\  /\  /\  /\  /\
sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu/  \/  \/  \/  \/  \/  \
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: parson@coulomb.pcc.oz.au (Brenda Parsons)
Subject: Mitsubishi Pajero
Organization: Prospect Electricity
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 04:40:25 GMT

Sorry if this is the wrong group, but we've only got a small
selection of rec.autos.*

We're looking to buy a 92/93 Pajero, and there are
3 additional packages which can be added:

1) Deluxe - sunroof, powerwindows etc
2) Performance - variable shocks, rear differential etc
3) ABS Brakes

All three packages are separately priced, but the salesman tell
us that to get the Performance Package you must also have
the ABS package. 

Is this true?
Why would they price things separately if you can't buy them
separately.  It's not like a Japanese manufacturer to do that?

Are we being scammed?  The ABS is 2x the price of the performance
package.

-- 
% Brenda Parsons                  
% Currently at Prospect Electricity
% 10 Smith Street, Parramatta 2150, Australia
% +61 2 635 0300              e-mail:   parson@coulomb.pcc.oz.au
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tire noise
Date: 6 Jan 1993 00:41:45 GMT
Organization: clearer than blir
NNTP-Posting-Host: stalfos.engr.washington.edu

In article <C0EH7v.App@trc.amoco.com> zrol01@trc.amoco.com writes:
>Do any of you out there in rec.autos.tech-land know of a 
>cheaper, quiet tire?  My XJ-S has 235-60SR15's on it and they 
>are LOUD.  As I can't hear or feel that big silky smooth V12 
>and wind noise is minimal, I would surely like to put a 
>quieter tire for the car.  Advice???

Do XJS's come with 236/60-15 as standard?  sounds awfully wide to me.
if not, i suggest you switch to the (presumably) smaller size the
maker used.. that should cut down noise some.

i've seen XJ6's shod with Pirelli P5's, but looking at the tire rack
ad, they don't look cheap.  there are a new wave of tires called
"touring" tires which i think will suit the jag's character.  most
well known is the goodyear eagle GA, which is standard equipment on
many cars, including the fanatically silent Lexii.  the GA is widely
publicized as being designed for good ride and quietness in mind, but
my experiences in them is somewhat mixed.  on the ls400 i thought they
roared a little too noticeably.  they were silent on the audi 100.
there is also another goodyear ga, the invicta ga, which i think
has noticeably inferior grip to the eagle ga,  but is somewhat 
cheaper.  

another tire that in this category is the dunlop D80V4 and i think
that the bridegestone turanza is another.

good luck, and let us know what happens.


eliot

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: marcus@vestek.com (Mark Stephen)
Subject: Speedo Cable and Timing Light Question
Organization: Vestek Systems, San Francisco
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 18:23:15 GMT

     I have two questions I was hoping to get some opinions
on. First of all, I just put a new speedometer cable in my 
Accord, and it makes a 'whirring' noise over 40 mph where the
cable connects to the speedometer. I was wondering if I should
put some oil or grease in the cable, or some other trick.

     Also, I came accross a timimg light at a yard sale, but 
don't know how to hook it up. It has 2 wires with clips (one red
and one black) and also two wires with what look like ends that 
fit onto the top of spark plugs.

     Any info grately appreciated, Marcus
From: orscholz@immd4.informatik.uni-erlangen.de (Oliver Scholz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: C3 ECM schematics available somewhere?
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 12:51:14 GMT
Organization: CSD., University of Erlangen
NNTP-Posting-Host: faui43.informatik.uni-erlangen.de
Summary: GM C3 2.8PFI ECM schematics available somewhere?

I was wondering if the schematics for GM's C3 2.8PFI ECM's
are available somewhere?
Does anybody know where to get one or even have one?

Thanks,

-Oliver
---
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oliver Scholz                                                         DG4NEM
Graduate Student of Computer Sciences at the University of Erlangen, Germany
"You're killing me, Peg!"  "Oh, shut up, Al, like I care..." 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ahusain@comm1 (Asad Husain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Leaking brake fluid.  How to find leak.
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:31:13 GMT
Organization: UMAB

Hi there.

I seem to have a leak in my brake system.  Every 2 weeks I have to fill up 
my master cylinder with brake fluid.  What can I do to find where the leak 
is.   I have tried to look for obvious leaks but can't find any.

Asad Husain.
ahusain@isnov.ab.umd.edu.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17616 rec.autos:31361
From: lstowell@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Suction cup slide hammer ?
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:09:21 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation

In article <1993Jan8.125456.1@ducvax.auburn.edu> auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu writes:
>I have a large (~10"x20") dent in the lower panel behind the door of my
>car.  The paint is not scratched or cracked, and there are no sharp 
>creases.  I think that it would pop out OK, but I can't get to the back
>of it.  I know that there are slide hammers that screw into the sheet
>metal to pull it out, but that requires repairing the hole and painting.
>It seems that I have seen a suction cup type of device to pull out dents,
>but I can't locate one in an ad or catalog now that I need it.  Am I
>just imagining that there is such a thing?  If not, does anyone know
>of a mail-order source?
>
    Computer room floor tile pullers.  A bit of water or even better
    glycerin or light oil helps seal it to the metal. Even has a
    trigger release to let go of the vacuum when you are thru.  

    The body shop pullers look suspiciously like the single-cup
    floor pullers to me.

    Slip your datacenter folks a suitable bribe.....

    I've heard of plumber's friends, but don't think they have the
    suction...
From: drew@bnr.co.uk (Scooby Doo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 85 Honda Accord LX
Date: 11 Jan 1993 13:32:09 GMT
Organization: BNR Europe, New Southgate, London.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bnsgs211.bnr.co.uk
Keywords: car, honda, auto

In article <dmartin.726097550@femto.engr.mun.ca> dmartin@pico.engr.mun.ca (Dan Martin) writes:
>
>Does anyone know the book value on a 85 Honda Accord LX, standard, with
>166000 kms.  I checked almost every book store in my area but couldn't 
>find the "black book" anywhere.  I am thinking about buying it for
>$1800.  Is there problems with old accords that I should look out for?

	I wouldn't spend $1800 on a book if I where you. ;-)

>Thanks in advance.
>
>Dan
>email:dmartin@pico.engr.mun.ca
>

Drew

-- 

Pretty damn silly place to leave a signature...
From: louislam@iastate.edu (Louis C Lam)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: sugar in gas?
Date: 8 Jan 93 23:28:39 GMT
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA

>Indeed, if granulated (table) sugar is used, it will simply clog the
>line and filter.  Sugar does not dissolve in gas very well.  Powdered
>sugar might be capable of damaging an auto engine if someone was evil
>enough to try it.  Things that make the fuel burn much too hot such as
>napthalene moth balls dissolve readily...

One of my friends told me that his friend's Corrado was damaged in this way.
Someone poured some sugar and salt (!!) into the fuel tank... The mechanic
said he found a lot of impurities in the cylinders, and the engine was 
completely damaged.

Louis
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jjolly@jjolly.b24a.ingr.com (Jack G. Jolly)
Subject: Gas-resistant adhesive
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:47:11 GMT

I bought a locking gas cap for my '72 vette  a while back.  On the underside
it has a rubber gasket which came off within about 3 weeks.  I tried to stick
it back on with a variety of adhesives w/o luck - any suggestions for a "rubber
to metal" adhesive that can withstand gas vapors??

JJ
--

  ^^^^^^^^^          Jack Jolly  @  jjolly@jjolly.b24a.ingr.com
 (| 0   - |)
  |   *   |             Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville AL
  \_______/                AEC Project Management Support



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: Re: ** Alternative Fuel Injectors for 300ZX's **
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:27:39 GMT

In article <2B48AB05.2806@deneva.sdd.trw.com>, flower@donald.etdesg.trw.com (Rick Flower) writes:
> I've got a 1984 300ZX Turbo (VG-30ET engine) that I'd like to change an 
> injector on.  I've found a supplier for an aftermarket part, but only IF I can
> get the CFM rating for the original equipment.  If I were to buy a new 
> injector from Nissan, they want $120/ea.  However, I can buy an aftermarket 
> device for about half that price (depending on whether or not I find the CFM 
> rating..)
> 
> I've called Nissan Consumer Affairs and they could only give me the "leak-down
> rating" which doesn't do me any good...  Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has
> this type of information for the BLACK series of injectors that Nissan sells.
> If anyone has this information, please reply via e-mail and if there is 
> sufficient interest, I will post a summary on the net..
> 
> Any information is appreciated!
> 
> Thanks for your time...
> 
> -- Rick
> (REFdude)
> -- 
> +---------------------+-------------------------------------------------------+
> |      Available      | Internet Addr: flower@donald.etdesg.TRW.COM or        |
> |      for Lease      |                rickf@theweav.cts.com                  |
> +---------------------+-------------------------------------------------------+

Check out Marren motor sports in Derby Ct Phone 203-732-4565.

These guys specialize in mainly Toyota parts, but offer a fuel injector
reconditioning/matching program

Kris
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subject: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Date: 10 Jan 93 03:50:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: heartlan.9301101550.AA06603
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> -> "Adiabatic" is the correct term.  It refers to a thermodynamic
> -> assumption that the heat engine process has no external transfer of
> -> heat.  It is not really achieved in a real system, but
> -> efficiency is gained if heat losses to a cooling system are
> -> minimized.
> 
>  I guess I'm a little more stringent than you are.  So instead of
> rejecting the heat to the radiator, it joins with what's going out the
> exhaust pipe.  Big deal.
 
You are technically correct about the definition of "adiabatic" 
but you are incorrect if you think that because heat is still 
rejected through the exhaust that the concept of a "near 
adiabatic" engine is not a "big deal." 
 
The point is that even though some heat is going to always be 
rejected through the exhaust in an Otto cycle (you need to reject 
heat to a colder sink for any heat engine to work), by reducing 
the heat that is being wasted by conduction through the cylinder 
walls and head into the cooling system, the overall cycle 
efficiency will improve.  
 
Of course, if you still believe you are correct, then perhaps you 
might want to write a letter to the various engine manufacturers 
who are spending $millions to find ways to reduce the heat 
transfer to the cooling system (such as ceramic coatings on 
pistons and heads).  Obviously it is no big deal and they are 
wasting their money.  They may be very greatful to you for your 
help.  :-) 
 

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17558 rec.autos:31232