HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: swk@tylos.East.Sun.COM (Steve Klosterman - Sun BOS Hardware)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: fixer-upper advice
Date: 23 Jul 1992 16:16:13 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Billerica MA
Reply-To: swk@east.sun.com (Steve Klosterman - Sun BOS Hardware)
NNTP-Posting-Host: tylos.east.sun.com


OK, what about financing renovations, rehabs, etc?  How
do you work that into things?  From our inspection, it
appears to not be in as 'bad' as shape as my initial
impression.  

We went through the house with a contractor who says that
the house is very sound, no structural problems and mostly
cosmetic things.  The roof is recent.  Some water stains on
the top floor appear to be at least 15 years old, so the
roof probably fixed that.  It appears that some work was
done about 10 years ago to replace a porch, some windows
and one of the gutters.

The current asking price for the place is $170,000 (there
have been *no* offers at that price).  We estimate that,
in pristine condition, it'll be worth $210-220,000 in that
neigherhood if we did all the fixes.  The seller is motivated
to sell.

The below estimates assume, initially, that we do very little
of the work ourselves.  I prefer working backwards, though,
towards what is possible for us to do.

Thanks,
Steve

Estimate these fixes to make it very excellent:
	Minor outside molding/framing	$300-1000
	Two places roof facia broke	$200-400
	Some new gutters		$500
	Minor walkway, porch repair	$500-1000
	Kitchen				$25,000 (1-50k of course!)
	Put in 1/2 bath of 1st floor	$5000
	Upgrade 2nd floor batch		$7500
	Replace some storm windows	$3500 (high)
	Fix remaining windows		$2000
	Drapes/blinds for 20 windows	$2000
	Rugs for dining room/living	$2500
	Repair ceilings in 3 rooms	$300-500
	3-4 ornamental light fixtures	$700
	Finish floors ($1/sq ft)	$1200-1500 
	Paint all rooms			$800-1000
	Fireplace grout, fixing		$500
	Complete insulation (??)	$1500-2000
	New Hot Water Heater		$600-900
	Replace 6 basement windows	$900
	New electrical (60-200 amp)	$1200-1300
	New wiring, add many outlets	$1500-2000
	Some new plumbing		$1000 
	replace furnace with gas
		3-zone baseboard 	$10000-12000
	paint/redo some shingles	$2000			
					-----------
					$71,200-75,500

Things that *have* to be done to make it livable:
	Kitchen				$25,000 (1-50k of course!)
	Put in 1/2 bath of 1st floor	$5000
	Upgrade 2nd floor batch		$7500
	Replace some storm windows	$3500 (high)
	Drapes/blinds for 10 windows	$1000
	Rug for dining room		$1000
	Repair ceilings in 3 rooms	$300-500
	Paint all rooms			$800-1000
	3-4 ornamental light fixtures	$700
	Complete insulation (??)	$1500-2000
	New Hot Water Heater		$600-900
	New electrical (60-200 amp)	$1200-1300
	New wiring, add many outlets	$1500-2000
					----------
					$49,800-51100


Assuming we'd want to finance the renovation costs (since
we don't the 	
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cthorne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Charles E Thorne)
Subject: Re: What is a wrap-around mortgage?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 19:05:31 GMT

In article <LOWRY.92Jul27101524@rotor.watson.ibm.com> lowry@watson.ibm.com (Andy Lowry) writes:
>Can somebody describe what a "wrap-around mortgage" is?  The co-op I'm
>looking at apparently took one of these from (or at least with the
>help of) the sponsor on the building when it converted.  If somebody
>could explain what this means in terms of who now owes money to whom,
>and what happened to the original building, etc., I'd appreciate it.

A wrap-around mortgage is similar in effect to a loan assumption.  It is
usually used for large or commercial properties which have a large loan
which doesn't need to be paid off on sale.  Instead of the seller taking
back a second mortgage--they issue a new "wrap-around" mortgage.

Example:  Say property at one time sold for $1 million with a $800 thousand
mortgage.  Now it is resold for $1.5 million with a $1.2 wraparound.  The
new owners pay the $1.2 mortgage--the original owner--now seller--continues
to pay on the $800 thousand mortgage.  It gives more control to the seller
than a second mortgage (with the possibility of retaining the lower interest
rate of the original mortgage).

Charlie


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: saseph@hal.unx.sas.com (Ed Hughes)
Subject: Re: How do I get rid of Box Elder Beatles?
Originator: saseph@hal.unx.sas.com
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 19:22:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.


In article <JEFF.92Jul20142824@claw.clearpoint.com>, jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack) writes:
>
>For the past two years my neighbors and I have been having problems
>with Box Elder Beatles (also called Strawberry Beatles).  
                ^^^^^^^
>Can anybody recomend a solution other
>than taking down the tree (yes, I am considering that extreme an
>action despite the fact that it is a nice tree).

Just marry one of them off to Yoko.  That's worked in the past...
-- 
Ed Hughes, SAS Institute  | "I'm human; now shut up and pass the salt!"
Cary, NC                  | --Crow, "Rocketship X-M," MST3000
                          |
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson)
Subject: Re: Fabric covered wall question
Organization: TECHbooks of Beaverton Oregon - Public Access Unix
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 23:37:33 GMT

ac55@vaxb.acs.unt.edu (Cathy Hardy, University of North Texas) writes:

>Has anyone any experience with covering a wall with fabric?
>How did/do you handle the seams between fabric?



There is a Quik Trak(tm) wall system that would be helpful if you
want to have upholstered walls.  With that system, you attach plastic
tracks to the wall to make frames that the fabric will go into.
Staple batting to the wall inside the frames.  Then, cut the fabric
panels and snap them into the tracks.  The Quik Trak stuff can be
purchased at fabric stores or you could try contacting the company.
If you need the address or phone number, I can look it up for you. 
 
If you just want to attach fabric to the wall, without batting, you
can use liquid starch to put the fabric on.  When you're tired of
it, just pull the fabric off and wash the wall. 
 
Both of these methods are covered in a book called _Creative Serging
for the Home_ by Black & Wisner.  (I'm not associated with anyone or
anything mentioned here.)
-- 
Carolyn Peterson          
carolp@techbook.COM  
(No affiliation with Techbooks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: HELP with The World's Dirtiest Jenn-Air!
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 12:36:02 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <DRAND.92Jul21140357@spinner.osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
|> In article <14h5ruINNlpi@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher) writes:
|> 
|>    In article 2393@ultra.com, wayne@ultra.com (Wayne Hathaway) writes:
|> 
|>    >If nothing else, how about recommendations for a good degreaser?  :-(
|> 
|>    Simple Green.  Used full strength, it cuts grease pretty well.  It
|>    won't eat through your skin or asphyxiate you, and it's biodegradable
|>    and environmentally friendly.
|> 
|> I like Simple Green.  Another option if the grease is really 
|> heavy is Lestoil or some other Pine Oil based cleaner.  These 
|> do a superb job on grease.
|> 
|> BTW,  Simple Green is available in gallon containers.  Definitely
|> worthwhile at $7 a gallon.

I've never used simple green, so I can't compare, but I swear by tri-sodium
phosphate (TSP).  Buy it in the paint department.  It will make grease wink
out of existence, soften paint, and etch aluminum (if you let it sit there 
for a long time).  Use it with consideration, but in places where a little 
over-cleaning won't show, or on steel or chrome, it's fantastic.  It's a 
powder, mix it with water.  I've had it on my skin a lot, it's not bad.  
No fumes.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, did you know that super banana squash is a vampire?  And he drinks
blood from cactuses?"  -- Tommy, age 3.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: miker@esr.hp.com (Mike Ryan)
Subject: replacing wood stove w/ gas
Reply-To: miker@c4450u01.esr.hp.com
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Burlington
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 16:27:17 GMT

Can I put one of those wall furnaces or space heaters (gas) in place 
of where I had my wood stove? The wood stove vented into the chimney
into a chamber separate from the fireplace upstairs.

--
Mike Ryan @ Hewlett Packard Co.   Internet:  miker@c4450u01.esr.hp.com
Burlington                        Phone:     (617) 221-5213
29 Burlington Mall Road           HP Telnet: 221-5213
Burlington, MA 01803              HP DESK:   Mike_Ryan@hpatc1.desk.hp.com  
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:9989 misc.taxes:2834
From: thang@electron.amd.com (Thang Tran)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.taxes
Subject: What is tax-deductible in closing cost.
Keywords: tax-deductible, closing cost
Date: 29 Jul 92 20:14:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Austin TX.

Is there any part of closing cost tax-deductible?

If I pay some points to lower the interest rate, can the point-paid be
deductible from income tax in the next year or amortize over the next
30 years?



-- 
--
Thang Tran  |  Advanced Processor Development      |  thang@positron.amd.com
            |  Advanced Micro Devices, Austin, TX  |  (512) 462-5880
From: crowley@zax.teraida.UUCP (Chris Crowley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: fixer-upper advice
Date: 23 Jul 92 12:37:38 GMT
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA

In article <1992Jul22.144929.19192@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com writes:
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>                    |            - The 90/90 Rule -
>George Patterson -  | The first 90% of the work takes 10% of the time.
>                    | The last 10% of the work takes the remaining 90%
>                    |   of the time.
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------

I have heard the 90/90 rule expressed differently (for software engineering,
but it applies here as well):
 		The first 90% of the work takes 90% of the time.
                The last 10% of the work takes the OTHER 90% of
		the time.

Chris Crowley
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Geothermal heatpump
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 13:57:11 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Jul27.160826.14429@CERIS.Purdue.EDU>, jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath) writes:
|> From article <1992Jul27.042152.20503@dg-rtp.dg.com>, by eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot):
|> > Everybody I've spoken to here (in NC) who has or had a heat pump didn't like
|> > it.  They said it blew barely-warm air, which made it feel drafty.  I would
|> > definitely choose gas over a heat pump.
|> >
|> 
|> Did you know anyone who tried one of those "geothermal" heatpumps
|> where the input (and output?) for the pump is buried below the
|> frostline?  I have heard that they are much better. 

No, as far as I know these weren't geothermal.  For whatever reason, those
don't seem to be used around here.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, did you know that super banana squash is a vampire?  And he drinks
blood from cactuses?"  -- Tommy, age 3.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: Metal roofs
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 20:45:26 GMT

davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg) writes:


 * 1. What are the advantages and disadvantages of metal roofs?

advantages: If you have one of the good kinds (terne, standing seam is the kind
I have) it is beautiful and long lasting.

disadvantages: In this area of the country it is hard to get
``prefered rate'' insurance with a metal roof (maybe because all the metal
roofed houses around here are old farm houses with cheap BS V-crimp.)

-Mike
From: ajg@controls.ccd.harris.com (Arnold Goldberg)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: To close or not to close on a new house with a leak!
Date: 24 Jul 92 15:18:19 GMT
Organization: Harris Controls and Compositions

>>>>> On 23 Jul 92 02:08:09 GMT, mariou@astro.astro.ufl.edu (STG colleague) said:

	STG> Would you people out there close on the house (we had this house
	STG> built hiring an architect etc.)?  My common sense tells me no
	STG> My husband believes that we should perhaps and have faith on the
	STG> buildier that he will find the problem but I believe this is naive.

You've got to be kidding me.  Don't Pay this Guy!!!
 Just read some of the horror stories in misc.consumers 
and your husband will see the light real fast...

arnold
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arnold Goldberg                            Email:  ajg@ccd.harris.com
Phone: (407)242-5051                       Snail:  Harris Corporation
Fax  : (407)242-4262                               407 John Rodes Blvd.
                                                   Melbourne, FL 32905

The opinions expressed are my own and do not in any way represent Harris 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ed@introl.introl.com (Ed Zhong)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Questions on rental properties???
Date: 21 Jul 92 21:54:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: introl.1992Jul21.215401.16243
Organization: Introl Corp.

First I like to thank for the replies of my previous question about 
how to offer on a house.

I want to start something by myself and still keep my full time job,
the first thing popped out in my mind is to buy a rental property. I
will buy a 4-family house with positive cash flow. However, I have never
owned house nor manage a building before, so I don't know what is the 
potential problems I will have to face, please feel free to comment 
on anything which is related.(especially form landlords and ex-landlords)

I will buy a cheaper house which might need some work to realize the cash 
flow. I am ready to put money and time on it.  I don't know what location 
I want my house to be yet. I have to alternatives, either close to a 
university or a resident area (but not in downtown area). I think that it is 
easier to rent around universities, but the tenents are not stable... 
usually students move every year... and sometimes they demage
the house; in a resident area, the tenents usually live there for several
years, but may be it is hard  for me to find a renter. 

Please tell me that how taugh to be a landlord.


--ed
-- 
-------------			-----------------
||	Ed Zhong 		||	I make my money work for me.
||	ed@introl.com		||	I work to make my money work for me.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: HELP with The World's Dirtiest Jenn-Air!
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Distribution: usa
Date: 22 Jul 92 11:52:20

In article <1874@coyote.UUCP> drake@drake.almaden.ibm.com (Sam Drake) writes:

   Consider ... if the fan takes 99% of the grease that comes off of
   grilling burgers and gets it into the jar, there's still 1% of the
   grease floating around in the air in your house. ...take the grills
   and rocks and heating elements and THROW THEM AWAY...

I am no great admirer of the down-draft vent system, but even updraft
venting will let _some_ cooking grease escape to the rest of the
kitchen.  Saute'ing, stir-frying, and deep-frying also put goodly
amounts of grease into the air.

   Sticking to the wallpaper.  The drapes.  The carpet.  Yeech.  

Which is why I don't believe in `open-plan kitchens'.  Kitchens should
be easy to clean: no wallpaper (well maybe the vinyl stuff if you like
that), no drapes (OK, OK, so you want some cute lace curtains on the
windows; just make sure they are easy to take off and throw in the
washing machine), no carpet.

Of course, if you really want to avoid grease in the air, you can
stick to boiling and steaming.  But you still need a vent for the
steam, heat, combustion gasses (if gas range), and odors.

	-s
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: Questions on remodeling ideas.
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: usa
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:29:37

In article <1992Jul31.150621.3493@sactoh0.sac.ca.us> jhp@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Jim H. Puga) writes:

   I want to upgrade the electrical panel to about 150 or 200 amps.
   Does this present a problem for a DYI or should I leave this to an
   electrician?

For the cost (around $750 in the US)  I left it to an 
electrician.  Unless you're coming into this already knowing
the NEC for residential buildings fairly well, and practiced
at wiring,  you might well spend a couple of days doing this.  
The electrician will do it all in a few hours,  knows all the
relevant code (including all those obscure little details about
service entrance requirements,  meter placement,  and 
drop placement).  

Don't get me wrong,  you definitely can do this yourself,  just
remember that the lights go out when the power is off.  My 
electrician came with a generator.


--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jthomas@brtph98.bnr.ca (James Thomas P215)
Subject: Hot Tub / Deck Experiences
Organization: BNR, Inc. Research Triangle Park, NC
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 21:57:27 GMT


   We are going to be buying a house soon and we are planning
to add a hot tub to whatever house we buy.  I would appreciate
hearing of experiences others have had in buying or maintaining
hot tubs.  Which features are not worth paying for, and which
are must-haves?  Please don't waste time replying through e-mail,
as I am inaccessible.  Post your responses.

    Also, if anyone in the RTP area is listening, which local
dealers are good/bad ?
From: garyp@gvls2.gvl.unisys.com (Gary Palangian)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Air Compressor Recommendations Wanted
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:34:10 GMT
Organization: Unisys Defense Systems, Great Valley Labs, Paoli, Pa

Hey Now Everyone,

     After 15 years of dreaming about it, I'm finally ready to purchase
an Air Compressor.  I've been looking into them a little bit, and I think
I've got a preliminary set of wants:

   o  Electric (110v or 220v OK)
   o  Enough power to drive the majority of pneumatic tools.  I figure
      about 10 scfm at 90 psi should be adequate.  This will probably in
      the 5 horsepower range.
   o  A 20-25 gallon tank.
   o  Single stage should be O.K.  THe cost of dual stage compressors scares
      me.


I was looking at Craftsman, but after the trashing they got for gas powered
weedeaters I thought I should actively seek recommendations.

I will be using the compressor (initially) for sand blasting, painting (furniture,
interiors, exteriors.. not cars), powerwashing, and grinding/polishing.  

Advice of what to look for, costs and benefits, and brand/model recommendations
will be appreciated.  I'll post a summary if there is interest.

Also, it occurred to me that perhaps this is not the best place to
post this request... advice on where to post would be welcome.
From: pkrause@triton.unm.edu (Paul Krause CIRT)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Cleaning old water lines
Date: 27 Jul 92 15:11:15 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

I own a house built in the late 50's with iron pipe and built over a 
slab.  (typical for much of albuquerque).  I am beginning to get significant
pressure loss inside the house.  When the front sprinklers run there is
little pressure at the kitchen sink for example.  Any suggestions for 
dealing with this short of digging under the house and replacing all the 
pipe.  I guess I am hoping for something like Roto-rooter for water
lines.

Paul
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Raccoons - how can I convince them to leave?
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 15:14:24 GMT
Keywords: kinder, gentler

In article <29JUL199208521399@utkvx2.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:
>In article <1992Jul28.205110.10552@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu>, dab@brunnhilde.chm.msu.edu (David A. Bennett) writes...
>>There's a raccoon in the crawl space under my porch.  What can I do to
>>non-violently evict it?

 <good advice on trapping removed>

>....................................... take him somewhere far
>away from civilization, and open the trap (he'll run away from 
>you, don't worry).  

Check the State game & fish laws before doing this. Here in New Jersey
it's illegal to release an animal into the wild without prior permission.
Contact the local game & fish commission. They'll probably either say ok,
tell you where to take it, or take the animal themselves.

>I'm not sure of any way to "scare" him off.  It's probably fear that
>is keeping him under there (your dog barking whenever he shows hisface!)

Coon hunting is popular where I grew up. It's probably not fear keeping
him under there; he's just set up housekeeping. Coons usually aren't
scared of much. If this one is full grown, he's certainly not scared of
a dog. A big racoon can kill most dogs very easily. Some of them develop
a taste for it and go after dogs. If they can coerce the dogs into chasing
them into deep water, they can kill a pack of hounds.

Keep the dog away from the coon.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: On Buying a Trailer/Mobile Home
Date: 31 Jul 1992 14:40:41 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 12430@tc.fluke.COM, article@tc.fluke.COM (John F. Berkey) writes:
>> 
>I disagree with this statement, mobile homes do not have to meet the same codes
>that a house must meet, 

I'm curious, from which codes are they exempt?  The wiring, insulation,
access, etc. all apply.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 14:20:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Round tile cut with no wet saw?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house



	I just used a hack saw with a tile cutting blade, it's
a carbide round blade, and then smooth it out with a belt sander.
perfect for doing curves.

	good luck

chris wiles

Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:9681 rec.woodworking:5044