HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: q1hl@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Nameless CS Student)
Subject: Re: Lifting a JEEP Wrangler?
Organization: University of New Brunswick
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 22:00:23 GMT

In article <Bvv7E6.6Dw@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:
>More arched springs will result in more wheel travel, useful when
>traveling over rough terrain.  Spring shackle changes, or adding one 
>block above the spring and below the diff, will all constitute fairly
>inexpensive ways of raising the fender well to clear larger tires.
>On jeeps with the spring below the diff, it is possible to move it
>above.

PLEASE SAY WHERE I CAN GET THIS KIT!  I've been searching *forever*
for a spring mount conversion to put my springs ABOVE the axel, but
most off-road shops just look at me like I've got 2 heads or
something....  I know they exist, but where?  (I have an '88 Jeep
Wrangler/YJ)  Please send MAIL, as the newsgroups sometimes scroll
between reads.

>Add a leaf will increase stiffness as well as provide some lift;
>increased stiffness is not what one needs when traversing rough
>terrain, but may be fine for urban cool.  Stiffer shocks will increase 
>stiffness while not providing lift.  Stiffer shocks are for handling 
>weight, not for lift. 

Well, with a 2" add-a-leaf lift and a Rugged Trail RS5000 shock on
each corner, I can now feel every crack and pebble on the pavement.
Mind you, I can also carry over 1000 lbs of people and equipment
off-road without even *thinking* about ground clearance or bottoming
the shocks. :-)

>Significant lifts require modified steering and driveline parts.

What is significant?  What do the mods entail?  The drive shafts
(front and rear) are both telescoping, and the steering shouldn't
require more than a simple adjustment to re-center the wheels- the
Jeep steering seems *designed* for high-lift use: the wheels are
connected by a tie-rod (which controls toe-in/out), and the wheels
are turned via a "center link" which runs from the right wheel to
the steering arm on the left side of the vehicle.  Raising the Jeep
should involve no more than lengthening the center link to adjust
for the (marginally) greater distance between the right tire and
the steering arm.  6-inches of lift would require less than a
half-inch of adjustment, well within the adjustable range of the
center-link ends.
-- 
Chris.
From: rulon@ibms4.scri.fsu.edu (Phil Rulon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Question
Date: 12 Oct 92 15:21:16 GMT
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

In article <1992Oct06.214032.31252@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:

> The Bosch L-Jetronic systems mainly use air flow to regulate
> the fule flow.  I beileve that the L Jetronic system is the one that I
> was reading about with the aux air valve.  This preforms the same purpose
> as the thermo time switch and extra fule injector because it closes over
> time when it's cold, and due to the extra air flowing, it uses more fule.

The Bosch L and D systems both have a thermo-time switch which determines
whether the cold start injector (valve) opens.  The thermo-time switch 
is a binary logic device. (roughly)

                               sec
                            <15 >15
           eng temp (F)  <60 1   0
                         >60 0   0

It's not quite digital, there's a ramp (higher temperature less time).

  It basically opens the cold start injector for ~15 sec when the engine is
cold.

  The aux. air valve is also found on L and D systems.  It's a fast idle
control.  Bosch should have called it a warmup throttle or something. It 
just lets a little air past the throttle when the engine is cold.  
Most of them are electric, Volvos (early anyway) are mechanical.


Phil Rulon                                   rulon@mailer.scri.fsu.edu
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
Florida State University
Tallahassee                                  audio  (904) 644 7008
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: rebuilding engines
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 9 Oct 92 19:26:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I'm rebuilding my 351M.
...
-> What I would like to do is get 300 hp and 400 lb ft of torque out
-> of.

 Those sound like reasonable figures given the 351M's excellent heads
and rod ratio.  (6.65 inch rods!)


-> thinking is it has to be rebored. so .030 should do it.

 That's right.  Don't bore any more than you have to.


->  I want to keep the stock compression of 8.5:1.

 Shouldn't be any trouble there, either.


-> IS there anything wrong with an Edelbrock performer intake?

 It's a nerdy piece of junk, but you have to take what you can get when
you're dealing with a 351M/400.  Weiand makes some adapters to put a
Cleveland intake on, but the adapters aren't cheap.


-> Holley or
-> Carter 600 or 650 cfm.  What is better dbl pump or vaccum
-> secondaries?

 I'd go with the 650 Carter AFB or its Edelbrock equivalent.  I don't
like the Holleys at all, though you're sure to find many people who
think Holleys are the cat's ass.


-> I was looking at the Crane High Energy Cams.

 Call up Sig Erson's and ask for Steve Danzy.  Tell him what type of
vehicle you're building and he'll recommend a cam.  If they don't have
anything exactly like what you need, they'll grind a custom cam for you.
The 351M is a bit of an oddball, but for cam purposes it's a 351C-2V
with a 3/4 inch longer rod.


-> will i need stronger valve springs?

 Probably.  Short duration, high lift profiles are demanding on springs.
Your cam grinder will recommend the proper spring.  If you're smart,
you'll buy them with the cam - prices don't vary all that much.


-> I'll need headers?  What kind of
-> headers and I was reading that there should be a cross over pipe
-> before the mufflers in a dual exhaust, is this corect?  Also what
-> type of mufflers would you suggest.

 You'll be limited to whatever is available for your chassis.  The stock
exhaust manifolds aren't very restrictive at all, though they have no
tuned effects.  You want the crossover or H-pipe up close to the
header or manifold outlets.  Lots of mufflers shops will argue with you
about the need for putting the pipe on at all.  Every car I've done it
to, it's helped detectably.  Use 2-1/2 or 2-1/4 inch pipe for the
exhaust - the crossover can be 1-7/8 or 1-3/4.  Mufflers come in two
basic types - loud or quiet.  Take your pick.  <grin>


-> Any help or comments, good or bad is appreciated.

 Before you get started, stick your finger in an exhaust port.  Early
351M heads have the same port shape as the 2V Cleveland - a good-sized
hole with a 90 degree bend in it.  Somewhere along the line, some of the
351Ms went to a "potbelly" port with a big water jacket bulge around the
exhaust valve stem.  I can't get my index finger past the potbelly - B&A
Ford has a sectioned potbelly head, and the actual port narrows to about
1-1/4 x 1/2 inches at the narrow part.  If you have a set of those
heads, they're only useful for doorstops.
From: C058SJLX@ubvm.cc.buffalo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Tempo '86 problem
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:57:58 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo


   This car has a EFI system .  Two years ago it had the controler
  computer replaced (the car was recalled by the dealer).
    Now the car has a (I believe) related problem.  When the engine
 is cold the car runs OK.  After driving for about 15-20 minutes,
 when the engine warms-up, the engine runs irregularly and then
 it stalls.  After that I have to restart the engine at every stop.
  If I put the car in N the engine may or may not stall, but as
 soon as I shift to D, the engine stalls.  I have to keep accelerating
 to be able to move.  It seems to me that this problem is definitely
 related to the temperature.
   If I keep the car running the problem  goes worse and worse,
  only when it gets cold works OK.
   I took the car to the shop, they were not able to find the cause.
  The car has brand new gas filter, spark-plugs and cables, and
  distributor cap.
   Also the car has absolutely no power to climb up when the engine
  warms up.
   Could be this problem caused by a non working vane air meter,
 which is a sensor for intake air temperature and flow.???
 
      Any help would be greately appreciated,
 
 
                  Thank you
                                 Eleazar Puente
From: pwu@oreo.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Date: 7 Oct 92 21:27:27 GMT
In-reply-to: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us's message of 6 Oct 92 19:41:00 GMT


    -> Something that has been on my mind is the use of the air pump.
    -> What is it's purpose?
    
     According to GM, it promotes afterburn of unburned hydrocarbons.
    Oddly, the '92 Corvette switched from a standard belt-driven mechanical
    pump to an electric pump.  The air pump only runs for a minute or two,
    and only on cold start.  Apparently it's only for when the engine is in
    cold-start mode and running rich - according to the diagrams, it never
    comes on after startup.  Weird.
                                                                                                                           
I wonder why it is a bad idea to run the engine on the lean side?  Apparently,
this corvette is designed to run at lean side other than on start up.
Therefore, there is always enough oxygen in the exhaust after starting.  

I have seen pulse pumps for injecting air into catalytic converters.  A pulse
pump makes use of the pressure fluctuation in the cat. to draw fresh air.
Does any one know if the pulse pump taxes the engine by changing back
pressure?
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: a wierd Mustang electrical problem: spastic turn signals?
Date: 13 Oct 92 15:12:25 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana


In article <1992Oct12.175500.403@lrc.edu> little_re@lrc.edu writes:
>> My turn signals 'got no rhythm'. They blink, but they are erratic.
>> Within twenty seconds they will be weak and quick then strong but slow.
>> 
>> Any Ideas?
>
>    What year is it??  My '66 had a similar problem.  I finally figured
>out that the fan belt had lost a little tension.  Not enough to squeal,
>but enough so that the turn signals wouldn't get enough energy.  They
>would be fine at normal (driving) speeds, but at slower speeds (about to
>turn) they would slow down and sometimes not even blink.
>    Give that a shot....

...after you've checked the flasher cartridge under the dash. ;-)
From: pwu@doctor-pepper.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Date: 14 Oct 92 22:16:21 GMT
In-reply-to: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com's message of 14 Oct 92 15:09:22 GMT

>>Next time you walk along a railroad track, look at the "joints" between
>>two pieces of track.  Notice that there's a big ground strap connecting
>>the two adjacent rails.  This is, in part, to keep all the track at the

Not really for anti-corrosion.  It is common that the rails are used as
conductors, either for power or for signal.
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: upgrading carb for Pontiac 301 engine
Date: 8 Oct 92 14:57:53 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On 7 Oct 92 18:05:00 GMT, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  wrote:

[ Discussion of installing a 4barrel on a Pontiac 301 deleted. ]

> My advice would be to save your money and start squirreling away funds
>for a 400 or 455.  It'll bolt right in, though you'll need the A/C
>bracket to match the new motor.
>              

And also the radiator.  A friend of mine in UT had a 400 installed in his
'79? Grand Prix to replace a blown 301.  Unfortunately, the guy that installed
it never upgraded the radiator.  There was no way to keep that engine cool
with the existing radiator, and my friend was too broke to get a bigger one.
Also, the new engine was too heavy for the existing front springs.  (The
engine _did_ bolt right in, though.)

And while you're at it, you'd better be sure that the car doesn't have
a TH200 transmission.  That would _never_ handle a 455.

If you're serious about wanting to massively improve the car's
acceleration, by all means, drop in a 455 with a radiator and tranny to
match.  On the other hand, you might find an adequate improvement by
simply installing a 4barrel and maybe lowering the gearing in the rear end.

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
From: pwu@tang.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is the air pump used for?
Date: 11 Oct 92 04:44:59 GMT
In-reply-to: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us's message of 9 Oct 92 08:55:00 GMT


      -> I wonder why it is a bad idea to run the engine on the lean side?
      -> Apparently, this corvette is designed to run at lean side other than
      -> on start up. Therefore, there is always enough oxygen in the exhaust
      -> after starting.
      
       Lean mixtures run hotter and are more prone to detonation.  If you've
      ever played with a two stroke you can see effects of mixture grossly
      exaggerated, at least by four stroke standards.  A two stroke will
      usually continue to increase power as it leans out, right up to the
      point where the engine seizes or burns a hole through the top of the
      piston.
          
It still puzzles me why cars cannot run a little bit lean.  There was an
article on Boston Globe the other day about some invention for lean mixture.
It mentioned mixture of 20:1 but I am not sure what the mixture ratio the
invention used.  The common mixture ratio is some 14.7:1.  According to the
article, lean mixture tends to burn slower.  The invention is about some high
energy ignition system which may be used on conventional cars already on the
road.  The advantages are lower emission and higher fuel economy.
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gold Spark Plugs
Date: 14 Oct 92 20:57:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: mlb.1992Oct14.205721.17940
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

Hooey. Gold plated hooey but hooey nonetheless.

The conductivity of gold does not matter when you have 10K or more of 
resistance in the spark path.

Gold is not as inert as platinum and has a much lower melting point.
Expect it not to last as long as a barrier coating.

Hooey.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eck@cs.uoregon.edu (Eck Doerry)
Subject: Re: Drivetrain Vibration
Organization: University of Oregon
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 19:33:58 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.140149.10604@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>,
jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe) writes:
> 
> 
> Episode 3 of my drivetrain vibration saga.
> 
> ** I'll spare everyone the gory details of what I've tried so far! **

*** Lots of explaination deleted here****
> 
> A possible clue::
> The HELM shop manual indicates the "vibration on Acceleration" could be
> due to "improper front joint alignment".  I think the text is referring
> to the alignment between the trans and the center support bearing.  The
> text say that this alignment can be corrected by "shimming the trans
> mount".  Unfortunately the manual does NOT say what the correct "front
> joint alignment" should be.  Assuming it should be straight on (0
> angle), then the trans is actually too high in relation to the center
> bearing support.  I can't raise the center bearing or lower the
> trans without modifying the trans mount bushing.   
> 
> Question:
> How critical is this alignment?  If it should be dead on, then should I
> trim the trans bushing to lower the trans?
> 
> ANY GM GURUs out there?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your input...
> 
> 

I've seen this a number of times on vehicles that have the long two-piece
drive shafts. Some older Jeeps have two-piece front shafts and many pickup
trucks (and vans, as you know) have them in the back. In my experience, the
HELM manual is on the right track. Let me explain. If you play with it
awhile, you'll notice that a u-joint *changes velocity* as it spins under
ANY condition except a straight-on angle. The more the angle, the more the
velocity change. It is critical for all u-joints in a drive shaft to
undergo this change at the same time. That is, they must all be mounted at
a) no angle at all or b) the same angle as all other u-joints in the shaft.
Think about it like two people doing a three-legged race: works smoothly
only if you're in perfect synch. Now, normally, this is pretty trivial to
achieve with a one-piece shaft: the tranny and differential are pretty
close to the same angle (often perfectly horizontal) and so the u-joint
angles at the ends are the same. Simple geometry. But throw in another
u-joint at the middle at you've got a much trickier equation. To be brief,
here's what you need to work for:
1) Same operating angles for all u-joints. Usually this is achieved by
shimming the center support up or down. Also, many transmission
crossmembers allow for the insertion of shims between x-member and frame.

2) Linear u-joint alignment. I'd be inclined to say you've got this
covered, since you say your second shaft does it too. But just check: if
you're sighting down the drive-shaft end-on, are all the u-joints
aligned?

Check these items out, and I'm sure that you won't have to deal with the
nasty vibration for long. BTW, this sort of thing is generally introduced
when the factory suspension is modified in some way.

Good luck
Eck
From: greenfie@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Steve Greenfield)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Air Compressor Questions
Date: 12 Oct 92 12:57:43 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA

I just bought a Sears/Craftsman air compressor that was 3.5 HP and
had a 25 gallon tank that was rated at 125 PSI.  I think it came
with a 15ft hose which was 1/4" and rated at 200psi, I believe.  I
have never used a compressor before and I have a few questions and
concerns.
 
I am pretty excited about my purchase but I am confused about sizes
of hoses, fittings and tools.  The literature that came with the
compressor does not go into details about what size hoses, fittings
and tools that can or cannot be used, other than the SCFM ratings.
I have a Harbor Freight catalog and all the pneumatic tool ads say
1/4" NPT (?), 3/8" hose size along with the PSI and CFM ratings.
The SEARS tool catalog does not say anything about the NPT and hose
size!  Does anyone know if the tools from Harbor Freight will work
with my new compressor?  Do I need to order fittings and hoses of a
different size?  My guess is that these compressors and tools will
work together in most instances but I have nothing to base this on!
 
The compressor literature did say that you should not use an extension
cord but to use more air hose instead.  I know I need more than 15ft
of hose but I don't know what kind to get!  Any suggestions?  To make
things easier, I would think that swivel connectors and quick coupler
sets would be an advantage.  Any suggestions with this as well?
 
Thanks for any and all help!
 
 
 
Stephen L. Greenfield                     Bitnet:   FEATS@VTVM1
Virginia Polytechnic Institute   ,/\      Internet: feats@vtvm1.cc.vt.edu
Blacksburg, Virginia           ,/   `\/`'\
                           ,/\/          /
                         ,/             <_          ._.
                        /                 `\       / /
             ,/\_     _/'                   `-`-\  |/
          ,/'    `_'_'  *  Blacksburg          \_> '
       ,/'                                    \__>_/\
      +----------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help Me: Synthetics - The Final Word
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:12:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> What is the best oil to run in a high performance engine?

 Fresh, clean oil.  Any reputable brand will do.  Doesn't matter if it's
synthetic, petroleum, or halfbreed.


-> Some definitive feedback would be helpful, preferably from someone
-> who's torn some engines apart and has seen the long term effects of
-> synthetics.

 Over heeeere!  Yup.  And I've seen no detectable difference, assuming
the engine has been properly serviced during its lifetime.  If you're a
goob who never changes his oil synthetic would definitely help, but such
people aren't likely to use synthetics anyway.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chris@ponder.csci.unt.edu (chris gleaves)
Subject: Faulty fuel guage (GMC Jimmy)
Reply-To: chris@unt.edu
Organization: University of North Texas, Denton
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:29:49 GMT


  I have an full-size '83 GMC Jimmy that seems to have a problem with the
fuel guage.  It all started a few months ago when I accidentally screwed
up the printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster.  I replaced
the printed circuit (the replacement was not new), but my fuel guage registers
as if I have about 20 gallons over full.  If you push the needle to empty,
the needle will slowly move toward full, and then right past it until it is
"pegged".  I checked the fuel guage by putting it in a friend's truck, it
works.  I put his in mine, and it acted screwy also. 
 
  I suspect that either the printed circuit replacement is bad, that the float
is stuck, or there are gremlins in my dash. Oh, the fuel guage worked fine
until I screwed up the first printed circuit, and the fuse is fine.

  Has anyone ever heard of anything that might help???

Thanks,
chris
chris@unt.edu

P.S.  This may or may not be related, but my oil pressure guage registers
fine until the truck warms up and then happily descends the scale until it
tells me that I have no oil pressure.  This is one of the main reasons I 
suspect the printed circuit.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13732 rec.autos.sport:11087 rec.autos.driving:5993 rec.autos:23599
From: gggj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos
Subject: Autobahn BBS >> NOW RUNNING!!
Date: 8 Oct 92 10:07:23 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

The Autobahn BBS is NOW RUNNING!

Call now!  607-256-7595 24 hrs for all your automotive interests.

Thats 300 through 14,400 bps.  Check it out.

Scott