HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: Good hardy plants...
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 14:42:02 GMT

There've been about 3 articles in this thread so far recommending plants,
including
	ambullia
	aponogeton
	echinodorus
	vallisneria
	rotala
	cryptocoryne

and some others. Personally, after numerous attempts, in strong light/weak light
rich substrate/poor substrates hard water/soft water liquid fertilizers/no
fertilizers, I've only been able to *melt* the aforementioned plants. What
this implies to me is that if you're not *lucky*, you'll choose the wrong
plants. If you use CO2 injection, I believe the universe of plant success
widens, but jeez, you shouldn't have to invest in so much technology, hassle
and expense just to grow goddamn plants. Further, one should be able to
grow plants and keep enough fish where the fish are the centerpiece and the
plants the accents and not suffer the depradations of algae infestations.
Also, to me, a beautiful planted tank with everything thriving (like,
say Vinny K's former tank or George Booth's spectacular tanks) are, to me,
well, beautiful and boring. Is it exciting to watch a plant grow? At some
level, yes, but personally I enjoy watching my killies flare, my cichlids
herd fry around their tanks, my catfish raid cichlid spawns, etc. Also,
don't believe anything plant growers tell you - it's always easy for *them*,
especially they want to sell you something.

I guess where I'm headed is to say that I'm sort of down on live plants as
an accent in a tank because it just doesn't work if you don't like algae. Rocks
and driftwood look fine.
I have grown java moss and java fern (and again, I can grow both but have
seen other tanks with what to me are staggering amounts of the same, go figure)
in dark tanks where the purpose of the plants is give the fish aplace to hide
and maybe spawn. Beyond that, don't bother to try unless you're willing to
increase your fish tending chores dramatically and suffer much frustration
until you find the magic plants that like your water (and *everyone's* is
different.)

Matt
Member, Aquatic Gardener's Association (finally :-)
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: nagel@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Kurt Nagel)
Subject: Skilter 250
Summary: More info
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 05:45:14 GMT

As a follow up to prior discussions of the skilter 250.

	I followed the suggestion to plug the air intake for the skimmer and
install a micro-diffuser.  I used a coralife limewood diffuser by running the
line to the bottom of the cylinder and into one of the small openings.  Of 
course this requires a spare air source.

The result:

	Major increase in efficiency.  The increase in quantity and decrease
	in size of the bubbles makes a world of difference.  NOTE: a "fine"
	mist glass air stone was in-effective, stick with limewood.

	Major decrease in noise.  Using the air intake, the skilter was REALLY
	noisy.  Now I can't even hear it.

If you are using a skilter or considering one (the price is right!!!) be sure
to perform this slight modification.

Kurt
nagel@fido.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: bhaskar@brtph598.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Tetracycline
Organization: BNR, Inc. Research Triangle Park, NC
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 02:03:54 GMT

In article <1992Nov08.093441.157789@zeus.calpoly.edu> jmartine@zeus.calpoly.edu (Joe Martinez) writes:

[re using prescription tetracycline instead of the fish-store equivalent]

>Fish store: 12 capsules (I think) for $2.50
>Pharmacy  : 100 capsules for $4.50

The stuff you get from the pharmacy is probably better.  At least, you
know it is still potent.  Many of the fish store medications don't
have expiry dates on them.  The down side is that you need a prescription 
to get tetracycline from the pharmacy.

-Shaji

-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5667 rec.aquaria:8651
From: tnnguyen@tera.cs.umn.edu (Trung N. Nguyen)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: [F] Plants and fish poop
Summary: Getting rid of poops and other junk in a tank with plant
Keywords: Poop, Plants
Date: 5 Nov 92 19:27:33 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.

Does anybody have a tank with both fishes and lots of plant?  I have a
20H tank with some plants and about 10 fishes with an AquaClear 200.
I have noticed that fishes' poop and other junk (dead leaves, etc.)
tend to get stuck in the plants.  The filter does not seem to be able to
pick these up.  Also I notice that the plants have a thin layer of green stringy
algae on them (hornworts do not have much, mostly on bigger leaves plants).
I think these algae help in making the junk stick onto the plants.  Anyway,
the plants look pretty dirty from all this.  Yesterday, I have to remove
all the hornwort and wash them and shake all the plants so that the junk
get off.  Does anyone have this problem?  Is there a way to solve this?
So far, I have tried to pills of bacteria to get rid of sludge.  Doesn't
look like they are doing their jobs.

				Trung
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Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5730 rec.aquaria:8746 sci.aquaria:1626
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: new alt.cichlid newsgroup
Date: 10 Nov 92 02:30:10 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Followup-To: poster
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

APARKER@MAINE.MAINE.EDU writes:
>Howdy fish folks! I've recently posted a suggestion on alt.config
>there be established a cichlid-specific newsgroup alt.cichlid, for

The answer is: please don't.  There is no demostrable need for such a
group.  The existing *.aquaria hierarchy easily accomodates the
cichlidiot subjects.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: lamprologus leleupi
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 09:43:14 GMT

In article <LJLyTB3w165w@netlink.cts.com> holyholy@netlink.cts.com (Jeffrey Tang) writes:
>guessing that feeder guppies & worms would be okay, but would a 
>l.leleupi accept anything that is not live food? i kinda feel bad for 

Try thinly sliced and de-gristled beef heart, worms, brine shrimp, grass
shrimp and various prepared foods.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: knapp@seq.uncwil.edu (Michael Knapp)
Subject: Re: lamprologus leleupi
Organization: Univ. of North Carolina @ Wilmington
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 02:18:45 GMT

I feed my leleupi flake, live brine, and formula II frozen food.
I was told that they prefer green (veg.) type foods the best.
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: lamprologus leleupi
From: holyholy@netlink.cts.com (Jeffrey Tang)
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 92 22:36:32 PST
Organization: NetLink Online Communications, San Diego CA

Greetings everyone.  i am thinking about getting a lamprologus leleupi 
for a new 26-gallon tank but dont know for sure what they eat. i am 
guessing that feeder guppies & worms would be okay, but would a 
l.leleupi accept anything that is not live food? i kinda feel bad for 
the feeders. =( I would love it if someone'd tell me a little about what 
they feed their l. leleupi. Thanks very much.

--                    
INTERNET:  holyholy@netlink.cts.com (Jeffrey Tang)
UUCP:   ...!ryptyde!netlink!holyholy
NetLink Online Communications * Public Access in San Diego, CA (619) 453-1115
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: (F) Chemicals, Plants, Fertilizer and Fish
Keywords: tap water
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 21:38:21 GMT

In <5749@tivoli.UUCP> steveb@tivoli.UUCP (Steve Benz) writes:

[...]

-->I use plant-tabs religiously.  I've had zero success with liquid fertilizer,
-->and I'm not especially keen to try them out, since with the tablets I don't
-->have to bother with taking the carbon out of my filters.  I've also added
-->some stuff which I can't name...  Amazonian river clay?  You put in about
-->a cubic inch of this goop every six months to a year, it turns your water
-->brown for a day, and the plants do well from that day forward.

Sounds like laterite.

As for the plant-tabs, etc., it seems to me that everyone's case is unique.
Each has to find out what works best with the combination of light,
nutrients, temperature, etc., that are available in the aquarium.

-->Then there's a lesson which took a long time to sink in -- Pleco's eat
-->leaves.  However, I'm not sure what sort of suckerfish doesn't.  In my
-->smaller tank where the plants are doing well, I have an oteocinclus (sp?)
-->however since I got him somebody decided to eat some of the small runners
-->growing from some species of grass whos name escapes me at the moment...
-->The oteocinclus is my most likely suspect at the moment, tho I also have
-->festivums, angel fish, and a pair of cory cats in the tank.  Does anybody
-->out there have any recommendations?

I don't think otocinclus eat plants, but Pekoltia and Plecos scrap
the leaves, especially amazon swords.

I find that angel fish love to nibble on tiny plants. The will
rip up new shoots, or eat the tips of growing plants.

-->My most pressing concern, and the thing that strikes me as most different
-->between Otto's experience and mine is that plants bought from stores
-->are almost always in bad condition...  In fact, they seem to arrive at
-->the stores in bad condition and then proceed downhill from there.
-->I make it a policy to be extremely selective and try and buy the day
-->after the store's shipment arrives.  Possibly my problem is my choice
-->of fish stores...  Or is there some other secret I'm missing?

Hmm, most of the store around here get the plants in great shape,
but if they stay around for a week they look battered. Usually
they only buy enough plants to last for a week or so, since they
rarely have proper lighting, etc. to keep them in good shape.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: tnnguyen@tera.cs.umn.edu (Trung N. Nguyen)
Subject: Re: (F) Chemicals, Plants, Fertilizer and Fish
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 17:27:35 GMT

In article <92311.105900JAL127@psuvm.psu.edu> <JAL127@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>I would say that your pleco is not the one eating your youngshoots,but it is th
>e festivim(s). when i used to keep them my heavily planted 29gal. tank, i would
> come in to find them taking small bites from the newgrouth of some of plants.
> In my experience i have never seen my plecos eat any plant except algae.
>

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Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5774 rec.aquaria:8822
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Closed brain corals
Date: 12 Nov 92 22:07:46 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <tom.721594974@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu> tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
-> I was wondering....  Does anyone who has closed brain or moon corals
-> under metal halide lighting notice that the coral closes down to the
-> point that you can see the skeletal rock during daylight periods?  I
-> have a friend that says his opens up to the point that he can see lots
-> of the tentacles, but as soon as daylight, actinic light or MH light
-> hit the tank it closes down.  Is this normal behavior for these types
-> of corals?  Thanks.

 These corals will open their polyps at night and extend tentacles out in 
search of food. That is normal behavior. Most non-fleshy stony corals ex-
tend their tentacles during the night. The polyps fold over or close during
daylight hours. This allows the symbiotic algaes to receive light.
 You should see the outer membrane during the day which is stretched out
covering the coral skeleton. If parts of the skeleton are visible (ie -
white calcium structure) than the coral has receded a little. You should
watch the tentacles at night and guard against any coral to coral battles
due to tentacle touching. 
 My red Favites sp. receded in one spot where an Euphyllia ancora stinging
tentacle touched it. The F. sp. was moved away and has completely recovered.
The E. ancora is still extending 4 inch stinging tentacles in the area which
previously contained the F. sp.. 

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
From: babak@NOC.Vitalink.COM (Babak Roushanaee)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Angel fish and tanks for sale
Keywords: ANGEL FISH TANKS FILTERS HEATERS
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:06:21 GMT
Organization: Vitalink Communications Corporation, US


		ANGEL FISH, TANKS, HEATERS AND FILTERS FOR SALE

I have 3 10G, 2 20G, 1 5G and 1 55G tanks plus several high quality 
submersible heaters and internal and external filters that are currently 
extra and I woudls like to get rid off for very reasonable prices.
I also have hundreds of home bred BLACK LACE and GOLD VEIL ANGEL FISH 
that are very healty and heck of a lot cheaper than pet stores.
All to be picked up at my house in Fremont, CA.
 
I can be reached at:

	babak (510) 505-9562 H
	      (510) 440-2426 W
	babak@noc.vitalink.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Subject: Re: Closed brain corals
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 13 Nov 1992 09:34 EDT  

In article <tom.721594974@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu>, tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes...
> 
> 
>I was wondering....  Does anyone who has closed brain or moon corals
>under metal halide lighting notice that the coral closes down to the
>point that you can see the skeletal rock during daylight periods?  I
>have a friend that says his opens up to the point that he can see lots
>of the tentacles, but as soon as daylight, actinic light or MH light
>hit the tank it closes down.  Is this normal behavior for these types
>of corals?  Thanks.
> 
>--tom@ecn.purdue.edu
>--
>The advertisement is the most truthful part of a newspaper
>		-- Thomas Jefferson

They close up sometimes during the day to the point where you can see the
shape of the underlying skeletal base.  You should not actually see the
skeleton unless the organism has an injury.  BTW these corals are capable
of eating quite a lot of small shrimp and what not.  Try feeding them mysis
shrimp at night after the lights are out.  The coral will love you for it.

Greg
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:5660 rec.aquaria:8645
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Long trails of fish p**p.
From: Sleight of Hans <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 09:46:39 EST
Organization: Penn State University

I have been maintaining fresh and marine tanks for a number of years now,
and there one thing I have never been able to figure out.

In some of my freshwater tanks, my fishies trail long (VERY LONG - Up to 8")
pieces of fish poop.  It happens most commonly with my Pl*co's, but I've seen
it in my Swordtail breeding tank and most recently in a 19g with 2 Red-capped
Orandas.  The fishies are all extremely healthy otherwise, with long, full
fins, they are very active and alert, and seem extremely happy.  The trails
do not seem to bother them, and are easily handled by the filtration in my
tanks.

I am feeding a mixed diet of flakes (pellets for the Orandas) and dried
tubifex worms.  There is also a good algae growth for them to graze on, which
they do.

Any ideas as to what causes them?  They don't seem to be a problem, but are
not exactly aesthetically pleasing...

Thanks!

| O |                                                                   | O |
|   | Hans C. Masing          "By all means marry: If you get a good    |   |
| O | HCM100 @ PSUVM.psu.edu   wife, you'll become happy; if you get    | O |
|   | HCM100 @ CBA1.psu.edu    a bad one, you'll become a philosopher." |   |
| O | Penn State MIS Dept.                           - Socrates         | O |
|   |                                                                   |   |
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: lamprologus leleupi
Keywords: FART
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 22:15:31 GMT

In article <1992Oct28.122313.11123@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>
>Is this a somewhat homogenous fart general behavior/coloration?
>
>			-Matt

  Well, people I know think that This sort of behavior
is something to be avoided.
From: maddox@spectrx.saigon.com (Otto Maddox)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Betta breeding
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:18:27 GMT
Organization: SPECTROX SYSTEMS (408)252-1005 Silicon Valley, Ca

I used to breed Bettas in a 10 gallon tank.  I used an Aquaclear Mini for 
filtration.  I used a tank divider and kept the female on one side and the male 
on the other.  I put the filter on the side with the female to let the male 
build his bubbles.  I put the female in with the male.. when they were done I 
put the female back in her side and waited.  When the fish were free swimming 
(little buggers) I took the male out and put him in a bowl of his own.  I had 
to keep the temperature at 82 degrees.. that's what they liked..  I put bubble 
in with the fry once they were swimming around and when the males start to 
fight you have to get 20 or 30 small fish bowls and jars to keep them in.
 
It was as easy as that.. really.. I only filled the tank three quarters full 
and didn't use any gravel.  The cold air would kill the fry I was told and I 
noticed it was easier for the male to pick up eggs if they were on the bare 
bottom of the tank.


Charles Durand - (Otto Maddox) +1 415 969 1634
maddox@spectrx.saigon.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: forman@fraser.sfu.ca (Pamela Catherine Forman)
Subject: Re: Uh...  Hi!
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 22:04:20 GMT

Uh...  Hi!  to you too.

I can't remember all the details of my tank set up but I did
get bettas to spawn and had some of the little critters swimmin
around!  As I had an Aquaclear in the tank I was worried about
the effects of the waterflow on the bubble nests.  It was suggested
that I take a styrofoam cup and cut the rim off (about 1 inch of
rim or so) and float it in the tank.  The male will build his nest
in this cosy, undisturbed area.  Worked like a dream!  Also, don't 
forget to put a piece of nylon stocking over the intake to the
filter and to turn it down as low as it will go.

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: bhaskar@bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Tetracycline
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, RTP
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:17:34 GMT

In article <1992Nov8.102939.549@netcom.com>, oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:

|> It's illegal to use prescription drugs in any ways that are not in
|> accordance with the prescription.  The Big Brother worries that you will
|> harm yourself, y'know.

There are pluses and minuses to using prescription drugs for fishies.
The plus side is that you can get new drugs that are more effective.
The down side is that the more you use a drug, even if you are careful
to use it according to instructions, the more likely it is that you
will create a resistant strain.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:42:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Good hardy plants...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Amonia Problem
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 05:50:12 GMT

In article <Nov.8.21.36.17.1992.2887@remus.rutgers.edu> bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:
>Got a problem with amonia in my tank.  Just added CopperSafe to cure some ick.
>Could that affect the reading of the amonia?  It is a 55 gallon with an UGF,
>Eheim 55 gallon and a Whisper 4 with a chemi-pure and ammo-carb....how can
>there be amonia with that much filtration.

CopperSafe in sufficient amounts will kill the bio filter.  That will
cause ammonia build up due to the fish wastes and due to the
decomposition of the now dead bacterial colony that used to convert the
ammonia into much less hazardous nitrates.  Ammocarb that has been in the
tank for a sufficient length of time gets clogged by bacteria and will
nolonger act as chemical filtration.

Your UGF, Eheim and Whisper are now ammonia sources, pumping it into
the tank.

What can you do at this point?  Not much.  You will have to do a
complete water change, carefully wash (and may be bleach) the reusable
media, deep-vacuum several times or better replace the gravel, and
cycle your tank all over again.

Or at least that's my take on the problem.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: davep@paladin.corp.sgi.com (David Packer)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: [M] Cloudy Water...
Date: 9 Nov 92 17:33:26 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: paladin.corp.sgi.com

Hi All,

I have a strange problem. I started a marine aquarium
about (2) months back. I have been learning a lot about
what marine aquariums need and all. On my tank I have the
following:

1 - 40 gal. tank
    w/ bio-filter bed (2) power-heads

1 - 303 Fluval filter ceramic/charcoal/sponge(??)

My total load is now (4) fish maroon clown/foxface/powder blue tang
	and a bursa trigger.

Now the problem:

About (7) days ago, I started noticing little black dots on my
powder blue tang about 4. The next day there were about 3x as many
so I took out the charcoal and added (3) tablets of MAREX. Then I
left the lights out for (2) days. On the (4)th day I turned on the
lights to see what had happened.  The black spots were gone (good)
and the fish seemed pretty happy. Now the wierd stuff:

I then noticed all the algae in the tank had died off, and that there
where hundreds (literally) of these little copepods about 1mm or smaller
on the sides of the tank. Seemingly eating away at the algae. The next
day there were 1/4 as many. and yesterday there were barely any at all.

Everything now seems fine except (1) thing. I have this white cloudiness
to my tank. It started about (2) days ago. Last night I added some
bright and clear. Thinking it may be phosphates. It cleared the tank,
but this morning I looked in the tank and it is cloudy again??? any
ideas of how to get rid of this??

Dave
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria