HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: webel@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Date: 27 Sep 92 10:16:17 -0400
Distribution: world
Organization: Georgetown University

In article <1992Sep27.031420.10955@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>, Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai) writes:
> In article <ahlwqA2HBh104h@contempt.brisnet.org.au>
> rob@contempt.brisnet.org.au (Rob Amos) writes:
> 
>> due to Killer Chain
>> Suck Crunchings) but am still on original rear cluster.  I have covered
>> approx 3,500 km on it.
>> 
>> What's the opinion on replacing it?  Should I buy a new one? 
> 
> 
> What?!?!?!!?  Shimano and many others reccomend you change both
> freewheel and chain every year!  3500 km!  Crisp shifts?  No way with a
> freewheel with 3500 kms on it!


what is the big deal about 3500 km, that can be well under a year's 
worth of riding.  I would probably replace the chain at that point, 
but a freewheel should hold up longer than 3500km, unless you mountain 
bikers really do thrash equipment that bad.  I'm a roadie, so if I am 
of base I am sorry.  Replacing the chain frequently is more important 
because a worn chain will wear out freewheels and chainrings faster, 
or at least that is what I am told.

baird
webel@guvax.georgetown.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com (Bob Geer)
Subject: Re: Wheels
Reply-To: bgeer@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:25:28 GMT

naru@eng.umd.edu (Naruhisa Takashima) writes:
>I have a '92 Cannondale R400 w/ Wolber rims and Michelin Select tires (700x23c).

Which model Wolber rims?

I have a wheelset w/ C-Record 7-spd freewheel hubs, Wolber Profil TX
aero cross-section clincher rims, 14 ga. spokes, & mounted with
Continental Super Sport Ultras that I run at 130psi on a real stiff
road bike.  I have ridden them since 1989, I weigh 270#, & I ride
hills on roads with rough pavement.  I have only had to re-true after
spokes have loosened up, & that happened with only 3 spokes on the
rear rim the first season I rode them.  Otherwise, they have been
bulletproof.

I also built my own C-Record 8-spd freehub - Wolber Profil TX rim -
14-guage spoke wheelset last spring & they have similarly been
bulletproof, remarkable reliability since they were the first wheels
I've built.

As I described above, my rims are the aero cross-section, & Wolber
makes other rim designs which I haven't used.  I have used Mavic MA-40
square-section rims & had a little more problem keeping them true, but
for my weight that would be expected.  Ultimately, the MA-40 rear rim
developed cracks, a common problem with this rim used under a heavy or
especially energetic rider.  However, I never had to re-true the
MA-40's after every ride -- I had to re-true them, but not that often.

So, I believe you shouldn't have to re-true after every ride.  I
suspect the spokes aren't sufficiently tight, but Jobst or a good
wheelbuilder (not just any mechanic) would be a better source of info
on that.  You may want to read Jobst's book, The Bicycle Wheel,
available at most good bike shops.

Hope this helps, Bob
-- 
<> Bob `Bear' Geer | bgeer@beorn.sim.es.com                        |_______| <>
<>      lift-holic |  (this *often* works)        _O_    |___O___| | |_O_| | <>
<> Salt Lake City, | speaking only for myself, |_|_|_|_| | `'|`' |     |     <>
<>          Ootah  | one of my many tricks     |  / \  |    / \       / \    <>
From: dobrien@sybase.com (Dave O'Brien)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Recumbent bike
Date: 2 Oct 92 02:20:05 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1

In article <1992Sep15.201308.11541@rucs2.sunlab.cs.runet.edu> James
Gillespie, jamesg@rucs2.sunlab.cs.runet.edu writes:
>It is a long wheelbase model with the crank behind the front wheel.  The 
>steering is above the seat, connected to a normal looking front fork. 
It is
>a light aqua green bike constructed of round tubes of varing diameter. 
The
>seat reminds me of a normal chair, with the base not quite as long, to
make
>pedaling easier.  The seat clamps to the frame by a bracket on its
underside,
>and has two adjustable bars attached to the back of the seat to adjust
the 
>angle.  Although I didn't count the gears, I believe it to be an 18
speed, with
>the shifters on the ends of the handlebars.  If it matters, to the
rider, the
>chain would be on the right side of the frame.  I couldn't find any
indication
>as to who the maker was, so I hope this helps.

From the literature I've been looking at, it sounds like you have either
a Rans or a Easy Racer recumbent there, unless of course it's a home-brew
machine. A new Rans goes for $1000 U.S, and an Easy Race is about $1500,
so the $500 sounds good depending on the bike's condition. Hope this helps
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Strange groupo discovered, seeking info...
Date: 1 Oct 1992 10:59:46 -0500
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu
Summary: Rapidly vanishing past
Keywords: Huret TA Stronglight Zeus

In <1992Oct1.071634.15919@reed.edu>
   tboyd@reed.edu (Toby Boyd) writes:

> Hello, All-
>   Does anyone know if there is a source (other than garage sales and
> auctions) for European components from the 60s and 70s?

Visit the Wheelsmith bicycle shop in Palo Alto, California.  They have
a display case with 50s and 60s European bicycling equipment and
souvenirs.

If you want to buy Huret, TA, Stronglight or Zeus equipment, give
Cyclo-Pedia a call.  They're at 800 678-1021 (Michigan.)

cheers,
Alex Miller
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
From: william@castle.ed.ac.uk (William Warburton)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Date: 6 Oct 92 14:24:48 GMT
Reply-To: W.Warburton@ed.ac.uk
Organization: Edinburgh University Computing Service

In article <93240001@otter.hpl.hp.com>, slo@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Loughran) writes:
|> 
|> I dont know if its actually legal lighting here in Britain as it isn't
|> mounted to the bike itself, but I've never had any problems.

 I believe that both this and LED taillights are technically illegal
in Britain, however I would be surprised if you were troubled using
them. There are a significant number of bicycle riders (I won't call
them cyclists) who don't bother with fiddling details like lights
anyway and even they are only rarely challenged.

	W.

+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov)
Subject: caged vs. loose bearings
Keywords: headset, bottom bracket
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 04:07:51 GMT

The other day in the library I was reading a bicycle repair book
about overhauling the headset (my mountain bike needs its headset
and bottom bracket overhauled now).  The book  said that when
overhauling the headset, replace caged bearings with loose ones
so you get 2 more in there.  I'm wondering if it really is a good
idea and if it really makes a difference.  Also, the book didn`t
mention this with respect to the bottom bracket.  Is it a good 
idea for the bottom bracket too, or not?  Thanks in advance.

Sean


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: treitel@gracie.IntelliCorp.COM (Richard Treitel)
Subject: Re: Helmets - keeping a cool head
Date: 2 Oct 92 21:30:08 GMT
Organization: IntelliCorp Inc.

In article <casseres-011092155203@missmolly.apple.com>, casseres@apple.com (David Casseres) writes:
|> There have been tests measuring the temperature of a rider's
|> scalp with and without a helmet, and finding no significant difference.

These tests measure the result of the competition between the insulating
effect of the helmet and the reaction of the body's own cooling system to
the increase in *internal* temperature.  If sweat is evaporating like crazy
and the scalp is at the same temperature as before, that tells us something!
I back the guy who said last week that heating isn't a bad problem if you
take care to hydrate your body.
					- Richard

P.S. were the sensors under an air vent or under a helmet pad?

From: eugene@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Eugene Taskovich)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 01:24:13 GMT
Subject: Re: Helmets - keeping a cool head
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

In rec.bicycles.tech, dgrove@axion.bt.co.uk (David Grove) writes:


> Silver or white??

> The heat that is "baking the brain" is being generated INSIDE the helmet
> and not being allowed to escape. It is not coming from the outside (unless
> you're cycling in ambient temperatures exceeding 97(?)F - not very likely
> once you've taken wind factors into account :-))

> Anyway, surely it'd be better to paint the helmet matt black, thus increasing
> the amount of heat it radiates. Unfortunately, the gains from this will
> probably be quite minimal, especially when you consider the extra insulation
> provided by a layer of paint.


Black and other dark colors reflect less light than lighter colors.  The 
energy from the light which is not reflected is absorbed by the colored 
object.  This energy is converted into heat which has to be re-radiated back
out of the object if you want to keep it cool.  So if the helmet is black
or dark colored, the air flowing past it has to cool the helmet besides
your head.  Therefore the amount of cooling effect the air has on your
head is lessened by a greater amount than if you had a light colored 
helmet.  Flat black would be worse than a glossy black.  How significant 
the difference in color is, I do not know.  A black car tends
to be harder to keep cooler than a light colored car.  Solar panels for
heating water which flows through them are black because they will absorb
more energy than other colors.

But I would guess the main cooling effect, by a great margin, is the air
flowing through the helmet cooling your head. 


Eugene Taskovich
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Strange groupo discovered, seeking info...
Keywords: groupo, components
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:38:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

brianh@hprisc-29.cae.wisc.edu (Brian Huilman) writes:
>bike had Zeus brakes, quick release skewars, cranks, chainrings (with 2mm dia.
>holes all around the circumfrence, just below the teeth.  obviously for weight,
>by Zeus!  Upon closer inspection, I found Zeus was manufactured in Spain.  Who
>ever owned the bike had smarts enough to have Mavic rims and Vittoria Kevlar
>clinchers so I'm assuming they know something of cycling.  The bike had a very
>European racing geometry.
>	My question:  does anybody know anything about Zeus components?
All I know is that Zeus was a Spanish component manufacturer that is now out
of business.
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rpcfod@worldbank.org (Robert Patt-Corner)
Subject: Re: Clipless pedals 
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: The World Bank
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 12:52:41 GMT

In article <Bvo6MD.DtL@visix.com>, ken@visix.com (Ken Mayer) wrote:

> Now if I can only get the hang of releasing the cleat when I throw a
> chain. ( I look like that guy from Laugh In -- you know the one on the
> tricycle... )
> 

Right!  I took my big shakedown on my Look's last weekend, and after the
obligatory 3 or 4 falls (peoples' faces just freeze when you calmly
announce "darn, I'm going to fall now ... and do ...) I found out a couple
of things about my Look's at least.  Don't know if they apply to Time ...

1.	Adjusting the cleats "toe-in" to make heel-out release easier works. 
But the pedals are asymmetric (duh ...) ... one has to toe out and the
other in.

2.	No matter what the brochure says, the easiest release is to move the
heel *inward* at the top of the stroke.  Smooth and reliable.  Even after
adjusting the cleats to make the easiest outward release.

3.	Heel-in doesn't work at all in mid-pedal position and works badly with
pedal down.

4. The big discovery for me is that heel-out release works best with a
motion that pushes the foot *forward* and heel-out.  I was intuitively
pulling my foot back and heel-out, which doesn't work for me at all.  The
forward motion makes all the difference.  This seems to be the best release
I've found for the pedal-down position.

For what it's worth ...
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper)
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: University of Waterloo Math Faculty Computing Facility, Ontario.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 15:55:03 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.200454.26966@walter.bellcore.com> kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner) writes:
>In article <1992Oct2.182653.29153@netcom.com>, tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
>
>|> If you're a pro rider you need every advantage. If you are a recreational
>|> rider and buy this stuff, you'll just have your doors blown off by some
>|> 17 year old kid on a box stock Trek 1400.
>|> 
>
>And perhaps I would have my doors blown off by the same kid even worse without
>the stuff.  Please make some sense.
>
But if you use all the most expensive equipment and get your doors
blown off by the kid you look a lot sillier.  Must be a pretty
expensive aerodynamic bicycle that has doors, by-the-way.

Adrian.
arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Why no cantilevers on racing bikes?
From: rabbi@kiwi.gen.nz (Rabbi Bajzheet)
Date: 26 Sep 92 15:08:08 GMT
Organization: Household UNIX, Auckland, New Zealand
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
: >rabbi@kiwi.gen.nz (Rabbi Bajzheet):
: >> Why do racing bicycles never have cantilever brakes?
: 
: Theories:
: 
: Sidepull brakes that must span a large tire and fenders are heavier
: and more flexible than short-reach sidepulls that merely need to span a
: small tire.
: 
: Somebody has suggested to me that cantilevers have more aerodynamic
: drag than sidepulls.  If that is the case, the right question is Why
: don't race bikes all use Magura hydraulic brakes with hidden mountings?
: 
: 		;-D on  ( Well.... why not? )  Pardo

Since I posted my original message, a couple of possibilities have occured to
me:

1. Since sidepulls aren't mounted of braze on bosses, maybe they're
easier/cheaper to replace if the brake gets bent in a crash. I don't know if
it's the case now, but back in the pre-aero & PowerBars days, most components
of a racing bike (e.g. gear levers) were clipped on, rather than mounted on
braze on bosses, for this reason.

2. Tradition (this is my bet :-)

Still doesn't really make sense, though. I mean, if even technofreaks (aka
`racers not afraid to embrace new technology -  e.g. Lemond) haven't used
anthing other than stock Dura Ace or Campag Deltas, then what's going on?

It's a dark and mysterious world we live in.

--
Rabbi Bajzheet - The Hooded Oesophagus  __o `God needs food, badly!'
Usenet: rabbi@crfm.gen.nz              _`\<,_   - Freidrich Neitzsche
Snail: 12 St Aun n St, Devonport, AK (_)/ (_) Voice: +64 09 445-1186
From: Andrew_L_Chu@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Specialized Allez Pro...
Date: Sat,  3 Oct 92 09:16:33 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)


>In my jaded old age, I'm certain that Specialized must be cutting
>corners somewhere or else everyone would be selling 105 equipped bikes
>for $550.  Any clues or is this bike everything that Specialized
>claims it is?  What sort of frame quality is the Allez Pro since that
>seems like the only place where someone could cut corners since the
>bike is all 105.

Shimano is coming out with a 8-speed STI 105 gruppo next year, so old 105
stuff will be selling for cheap. As for the frame, the Allez pro is made 
by Giant and is comparable to other frames in this price range.

Andrew Chu
Andrew_L_Chu@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Mark Hickey)
Subject: Re: 4 Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: Motorola
Date: 6 Oct 1992 09:11:54 CDT

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
In article <BvoCty.C6K@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry
Thiel) writes:
>>
>>But what happens if you're riding a door?  Does your aerodynamic equipent get
>>blown off?

>Who is it? Trimble? I believe so -- he makes a bike that very closely
>resembles a door with wheels and it is a triathlete flyer. :-)

Not only that, but I believe it has a compartment integral in the
"body" of the frame accessed by.... you guessed it.... a DOOR!
(although I would like to see the rider who could pass one of those
two wheeled rockets fast enough to blow it off!)

Mark (on your left) Hickey
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: E5EM <E5EM@UNB.CA>
Subject: Delta Brakes
Organization: The University of New Brunswick
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 01:44:35 GMT

I'm new to this system so I'm not sure if this question has been
asked before. Have any of you ever had problems with the cable
slipping out of your Campy Delta brakes? Whenever I squeeze the
brake lever very hard the cable tends to pull out a slight bit,
which allows the brake lever to touch my handlebar, which means I
fail bike inspection at the local races! So far the only time it
happens is when the lever is pulled quite hard, but I'm afraid that
someday the cable might pull right out while I'm riding.


     Kevin Besner University of New Brunswick

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Removing Chain-links to reduce slack?
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:44:24 +1200
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

I've got a pretty old bike with Shimano 600 componentry,  and know that
the chain's pretty overdue for replacement.  However, that's going to cost
me far more than I can afford,  esp if I need a new set of chainrings (the
derailleaur's a newy, so that's o.k.).  
Any advice on taking out a link or two to reduce the slack in the meantime?
I've heard of this being done before,  so would be interested to hear of
anything relevent...

Thanks in advance,

Jonathan.
From: paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Date: 4 Oct 92 00:58:51 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC

In <1992Oct3.200159.4178@netcom.com> tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:


>> The container has to seal well so the rubber cement I put in it doesn't dry
>>out like the glue in every patch kit I bought in the last 2 years.

>What's wrong with the patch kits you can buy in any bicycle shop for
>$2.00? After you use up the present kit you can use the box indefinitely
>by buying new patches and the little glue capsules that have one flat's
>worth of glue in them. Since every capsule is opened fresh they never dry
>up.

 I guess I don't get flats that often. When I do (every 4 months aprox), those
damn little tubes are hard as rocks. At first they seem to have glue in them
because a gentle press exhibits some give. This is a sick bit of ironic humor
as the tube indents not because of soft glue, but because of the air space
created when the damn glue dried out!!!@!

 _Real_ rubber cement stays liquid when kept in a tiffany egg or similar
container, and if it gets a little too thick a bit of thinner revives it.

-- 
*******************************************************************
paul@panix.com                                    COMPULITE GRAPHICS
Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation
********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: alexande@genghis.borland.com (Mark Alexander)
Subject: Broken rear dropout
Originator: alexande@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 17:31:29 GMT


The right rear dropout (Campy) on my 18-year old frame broke last week.
It cracked just where the dropout enters the chainstay, so the part
that I think of as the solder tab (don't know the technical term) is
still brazed solidly in the chainstay.  The bike has been in nearly
continual use over its lifetime, but has not been abused (no touring,
and only a little racing early in its life).

Is a broken dropout a rare occurrence?  I have heard of failed braze
joints, but not this.
From: denish@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Denis Heselov)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 21:09:37 GMT
Subject: Chipping Paint
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

I have a couple of bare spots where the paint has chipped away on my steel 
frame. I'm not sure what type of paint I can us to cover these spots. I don't
want to use anything that would have an adverse reaction with the existing
paint. Have any ideas.

Thanks very much.

Denis Heselov
From: jbr1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Jarryl B. Ritchie)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Date: 28 Sep 92 14:02:45 GMT
Organization: Mississippi State University

There are two ways to work a chain and.

1.  Replace the chain every 2000 miles or when it is really stetched out bad.
    Continue this until the new chain skips on the old freewheel.  This is
    the time to get a new freewheel or cog set.

2.  Ride the chain and freewheel for as long as they work properly.  They
    will wear together and should operate correctly, although not as new.
    Ride them until they wear out and then replace both of them.  This
    is the method that I have used in the past and it works fairly well
    on both my road bike and my mountian bike/commuter bike.  My road bike
    has about 2 1/2 seasons on its chain and cog set (Ultegra) and still
    works fine with roughly 12,000 to 15,000 miles on it.  Mountian Bike 
    has fewer miles (maybe 5,000), but lots of mud, and grit.

Take your choice.  If you are racing and need to be able to use two 
rear wheels, ala wheel pit changes, option #1 is probably best to
insure chain compatability with both cog sets.

jay
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: cs4ec3at@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (Kerr         P)
Subject: For Sale
Organization: Department of Computer Science, McMaster University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:30:01 GMT


I have the following stuff to get rid of:

LOOK Carbopro pedals -- never used; they came on a new bike I bought but I
			use other pedals.   $150.00

Racing Wheels -- only ever raced on, never crashed ~500km on 'em.
		 Shimano sante hubs, Wolber TX profil rims, bladed spokes
		 32 hole, 12-18 straight 7sp cassette.   $250.00.

Training Wheels -- never crashed, only ~1500km on 'em. 
		 Shimano 105 hubs, Matrix rims, 32 hole, 13-24 7sp cassette.
		 $150.00

Piggy-back windtrainer -- used one winter, good shape.   $100.00

Reason for selling?  The pedals I don't need, I now have a better set of
racing wheels, the training wheels are the ones sold with the TREK 2100.
My 2100 is now retired to a touring frame, with touring wheels to match.
The trainer is going 'cause my girlfriend has one (better).

All prices are negotiable to a degree, so no crazy offers please....

Thanks,
Richard B. c/o P. Kerr -- cs4ec3at@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca

p.s. all prices are in Canadian dollars.



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: junger@rsg1.er.usgs.gov (John Unger)
Subject: Re: Reynolds 531 sticker replacement
Organization: U.S. Geological Survey, Reston VA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 12:52:42 GMT

I went through this process recently; my advice is to save your 
overseas postage.  In March I sent an airmail letter to Reynolds
in England telling them that I wanted to repaint a bike made from
their tubes and asking them for a suitable "Reynold's 531" decal. 
I gave them the manufacturer's name, bike's serial
number, and all sorts of other details. LAST WEEK I finally got
a reply (I had given up hope completely of ever hearing from
them at that point).  They sent me a sticker that just said 
something like "refurbished frame made of Reynolds tubing" and
a letter that stated that becauses of "abuses in the past" that
they couldn't give me a sticker that said "531 butted tubes"
like my old one. They also told me that they no longer had stickers
for 531 forks. I decided that I wouldn't bother putting their
compromise decal on my bike.

YMMV

    cheers -- John Unger
              junger@mtn.er.usgs.gov

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech