HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fhage@virga.rap.ucar.edu (Frank Hage)
Subject: Channel freq's - One handed controls.
Reply-To: fhage@virga.rap.ucar.edu (Frank Hage)
Organization: Research Applications Program/NCAR, Boulder, CO
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 21:09:16 GMT


Sorry, I had massive memory systems failure the other day.

The correct info:

72 MHz - Aircraft channels 11-60
75 MHz - Surface channels 61-90

27 Mhz - General purpose channels A1-A6. (The COX "fail safe" systems use this!)

RE: One handed RC Car controls:

One problem with a foot pedal setup is that both throttle and brake are
controled from one pot, with "neutral" in the middle of the pot's
range (I think?! - I have only aircraft radios!). Netters: Am I right?

There might be a problem with having to hold a pedal exactly half way
down to avoid braking. Using two pedals and two pots (a challenging
exercise in Ohm's law :-) might be more practical.


-Frank Hage. National Center for Atmospheric Research. Boulder, Colorado.
From: harris_r@wfooff.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Spirit of 76 Sail Plane (Review wanted)
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:18:03 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

I anybody know anything about the Spirit of 76 Sail Plane?  This plane is
suppose to be all foam and retailing for $19.00 (Hobby Shack).

Can this plane really fly?  

Ron
From: hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: BS on silicone shock oil and cold Ak. weather
Date: 13 Oct 92 13:17:23 GMT
Reply-To: hutto@smtc.engr.scarolina.edu
Organization: NIST Southeast Manufacturing Technology Center

In article <1992Oct12.203644.1@acad2.alaska.edu>, asdch@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
>Just a report here on that silicone shock oil.  The stuff is great.  Today the
>temp got down to the low 20s and there is about an inch of snow on the ground.
>I had the silicone stuff up front with the regular shock oil in the rear shocks.The claims are true-the silicone oil did not thicken one iota, while the stock
>shock oil thickend to the point of almost making the rear suspension inoperable.I would have tested further but the snow covered my 

    Neat test.  I put a bottle of silicone oil in the freezer once and then
    near the oven while a cake was baking.  There was no difference I could
    tell in the silicone oil between, say, 10F and 100F.  I've never tried
    something like that with the non-silicone oil.  Good data. Thanks.

>4-10 Novak ESC and internal moisture, I believe, shut the thing down.  It usually takes about 24 hours for it to dry and become usable again(hoping to soon get
>the Kysho Vanning running so I don't have to deal with this puny electric thing).  I'll post again on the subject when the weather dips into the sub-zero range.Make that high 20s, not the low 20s-its not winter yet!  Well talk about wheelspin the tires had no bite.  I have yet to drive the gas 4x4 Vanning in the snow, but I'm sure it will tear it up on the snow and ice.  Later, Dave. 
>P.S. Does anyone know if the MIP 4-10 Legend 4x4 setup for the RC10 will work
>on the RC10T, or if they make one exclusively for the truck?

    I don't *know* for sure, but I do know that the Legend will not work
    on an RC10 Team Car if you retrofit the narrow-bulkhead-long-arm front
    end that RPM or whoever makes.  This would make me *think* that the
    truck would be a no-go with the Legend since it has a long-arm front
    end.  As of mid-summer, MIP only had the Legend conversion for the
    RC10 Team Car and the two they were working hard on were for the
    Losi Pro-SE and the Traxxas TRX-1.  They hoped to have the TRX-1 kit
    available in time for Christmas.

-------------------------------
Brent Hutto
hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: rcb@ncsu.edu (Randy Buckland)
Subject: Painting problem.
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 12:26:49 GMT

I had a problem last night with a paint job I was working on and would like
to get opinions on the cause. I have covered the plane with super coverite.
Primed it with a spray primer. Then applied a base color coat of 
red AeroGloss dope. I put some friskit film on a section where I wanted to
have some white trim, cut the design and removed the proper pieces.
I applied the friskit tuesday night and wednesday night I did the painting.
After the paint was reasonably dry, I started removing the friskit.
The trouble is that larg portions of the red coat pealed of also. It
seems to have removed all the dope layers and some of the primer. I can
see the fabric high spots. I think this is one area where I changed 
types of primer between primer coats. Did I get bit by paint incompatability
and the second primer coat never stuck to the first one? Or is friskit 
bad to use on dope?
--
Randy Buckland                               "It's hard to work
North Carolina State University               in a group when you're
randy_buckland@ncsu.edu (919) 515-5491        omnipotent"       -- Q
From: shane@peeker.uucp (Shane R. McCarthy)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: GP Trainer 40 mods
Date: 16 Oct 1992 05:53:25 GMT
Organization: Not an Organization
X-NewsSoftware: GRn 1.16e (7/4/92) by Mike Schwartz & Michael B. Smith


   I will soon be building a Great Planes Trainer 40.  I presently fly a
Telemaster 40 with great success. I bought the Trainer 40 as it has a
symmetrical airfoil and it only cost me 30 dollars.  What I would like to do
is up its performance by making minor modifications.  I know little about
the designing of planes but these are the changes I would like to make.  If
you see any problems with the proposed changes or have other hints please
post.
  The recommended dihedral is 1 1/4" at each wing tip, the wing span is
59".  I would like to bring the dihedral down by at least half to say about
3/4" at each wing tip.  By reducing dihedral, am I just reducing the planes
ability to self center (lack of a better term).
   The nose of the plane is wide open, I would like to build a wrap around
cowl to improve aerodynamics, leaving just the cylinder exposed.
   Looking at the plans I noticed the ailerons and tail feathers to be just
flat surfaces with a rounded trailing edge.  I would like to sand the
trailing edge of the ailerons to match the airfoil of the wing so the
trailing edge of the ailerons would come out to a taper.  I would also like
to add a taper to the rudder and elevator.  Is there a reason why designers
left these surface flat or it just simplifies assembly for the beginner. 

   I am also considering lowering the wing to a shoulder wing design but I am
not sure if this would make much of a difference.

--
Shane McCarthy                  Please forward mail to
Windsor, Ont.                   cs.uwindsor.ca!jabba!peeker!shane
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: occ@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Holtz John F)
Subject: Miss Budwiser tuning tips needed
Originator: occ@rodan.acs.syr.edu
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 14:59:50 EDT

I have built the Miss Budweiser, electric version from MRP.  

  I tried the boat for the first time.  The boat don't stay in the
water.  The front of the boat is not holding to the water at all. The
front bounces left and right.

  Also the turning of the boat is not good.  It will easily turn in a
circle that is only 18 foot in diameter, I tried it in my pool.  The
boat when it does turn is turning too sharp.  I have moved the rod for
steering as close as possible on the servo and the rudder, the problem
still occurs.  When the boat is in a turn it still bounces but is not
even close to flipping over.  The boat is more likely to flip over
when it's at full power on the strait away, in fact almost did.

  I have added one thing to the boat, two water pickups, where the two
X's are and the turning fin is the |. The turning fin and the water
pickup are close, but should not interfere with each other.  The water
is not being picked up because the pickups are not in the water
because the front of the boat is not in the water.

        **         **
       * *         * *
      *  *         *  *
      *  *    *    *  *
      *  *   * *   *  * 
      *  *  *   *  *   *
      **X*  *   *  *X|*
          *       *
          *       *
          *       *
          *       *
          *       *
          *********

  My question is, what do I do to get the boat to hold to the water?
I have heard that the turning fin which is straight should be bent.
The fin is at the angle the that instruction say to, but someone
suggested to bend the fin at the bottom.

  How can I get the boat to hold to the water?

John Holtz
occ@rodan.acs.syr.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Hi-Start
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:46:34 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.213313.7479@col.hp.com> gregt@col.hp.com (Greg Tarcza) writes:
|egdorf@zaphod.lanl.gov (Skip Egdorf) writes:
|> 
|> After you stretch out the rubber tubing (holding onto the glider to
|> keep the Earth from flying away until you are ready,) let go of the
|> sailplane. 
|> 
|     Skip just hit my hot button (no offense, Skip).   NEVER, NEVER just
|let go of your plane when launching on the hi-start!  I haven't been 
|flying very long (2.5 yrs), but I have seem a couple of mangled planes
|as a result of "letting go."

I agree, to a point.  If you want lousy launches, you can usually hold
the airplane completely level and let go.  The rubber pulls hard enough
to quickly give you airspeed enough to start climbing.  But keep that
nose down for a little while!  On the other hand...

|          A major cause of mishaps on a hi-start is a lack of initial 
|     airspeed, usually resulting in a stall, wingover and crash. Always 
|     throw your plane as you would for a hand-launch.  Keep the nose and
|     wings level and use enough muscle to give it more than enough
|     airspeed for flight.   A strong level toss will get you at least 
|     part of the way up.  

...my technique varies somewhat from this.  I throw the glider as if it
were a javelin, at about a 45 to 50 degree up angle.  The difference is, I
THROW it, as bloody hard as I can.  If you start with the nose level,
you are throwing away that first 15 feet of line pull, and that is enough
to lose you 40 feet of launch altitude.  The only minimum requirement is
that you throw it hard enough to immediately be well above stall speed,
but most people can do that.  Beyond that, the harder you can throw, the
higher you will launch.

Now, of course, how hard you throw your glider also depends on how fragile
it is.  You don't want to tear the wings off your Gentle Lady or anything,
but any 100 inch glider can easily take a strong launch.

(I once knew a guy named Chuck Whipple who had a Big League arm.  He used
to throw his Sailaire like a HLG (no highstart), and get two to three turns 
around the field with it.  He once "Chucked" my Sagitta 900, and it 
whistled so loudly with velocity (at a 45 degree up angle!) that I was
sure it was going to rip the wings off.  I got nearly highstart altitude
from that throw, caught a thermal from there and stayed up about 15 minutes.)

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Black Baron Epoxy Paint Questions
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:10:23 GMT

Does it dissolve foam?


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch (Peter Nyffeler ,x4399)
Subject: Re: COX, CO2 or Electrical power? HELP!
Reply-To: peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch
Organization: ETH-Zuerich, Physical-Chemistry-Lab. - Switzerland
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 09:48:39 GMT

I am not an expert for small models, but here what I know about:

Most people do not like the sound of small Motors as the Cox's, due to the high RPM they have.
I have .3ccm Huming Bird which starts well if you feed it with a lot of nitromethan (>15%). 
But the spring is a problem because it bends and touch the prop while running.

The CO2 Motor is very quiet, but the CO2 capsuls are to expensiv (at least in Switzerland).
There is a guy in Germany Klaus Hammerschnitt which is rearly a big expert in CO2.

In Aeromodeller (a english magazine for free-flight and control-line) I saw somme small models
using a KP01a electric unit. It is a complete unit with motor, gear, prop and battery pack
made by Knight & Pridham Ltd. Castle Road, Rowlands Castle, Hampshire. Tel ++44 705 412172

That's all from Peter Nyffeler
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: How fast should I launch my electric glider
Date: 15 Oct 92 15:47:06 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: Skymasters RC of Michigan


One of my students has an Electra with a 3:1 gearbox added to the stock motor
and a Master Airscrew folding
prop (12/8 rather than the 8/4 that the kit comes with).  With that combination the climb out is very secure.  It it quite easy to launch with one hand and then grab
the stick.  It will almost fly right out of your hand.  We get about 5 minutes of
motor run with a six cell pack (sorry don't know the amp hour rating.  I can get it though).

Her husband has a Gentle Lady with a power pod using the same motor without the gearbox and larger prop.  The climbout is much less secure with a much lower climb rate.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: asdch@acad2.alaska.edu
Subject: BS on silicone shock oil and cold Ak. weather
Organization: University of Alaska
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 00:36:44 GMT

Just a report here on that silicone shock oil.  The stuff is great.  Today the
temp got down to the low 20s and there is about an inch of snow on the ground.
I had the silicone stuff up front with the regular shock oil in the rear shocks.The claims are true-the silicone oil did not thicken one iota, while the stock
shock oil thickend to the point of almost making the rear suspension inoperable.I would have tested further but the snow covered my 
4-10 Novak ESC and internal moisture, I believe, shut the thing down.  It usually takes about 24 hours for it to dry and become usable again(hoping to soon get
the Kysho Vanning running so I don't have to deal with this puny electric thing).  I'll post again on the subject when the weather dips into the sub-zero range.Make that high 20s, not the low 20s-its not winter yet!  Well talk about wheelspin the tires had no bite.  I have yet to drive the gas 4x4 Vanning in the snow, but I'm sure it will tear it up on the snow and ice.  Later, Dave. 
P.S. Does anyone know if the MIP 4-10 Legend 4x4 setup for the RC10 will work
on the RC10T, or if they make one exclusively for the truck?

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Subject: Re: Heli-Boy 222 modifications
Organization: Syscon Corporate Headquarters - South Bend, IN USA
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1992 23:00:42 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

You got an oldy there but you can still find parts sometimes. No problem
building your own servo tray. I made one out of PCBD material for my Junior
50.
The new 133 gyro from Futaba is meant for electrics, not sure if there is
a problem using it on glo macines. You pay more for ball bearing gyros
which last a bit longer and having two rates to switch between which is
not a biggy. A gyro is a must have.



?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
! Mike DeMetz                                          -----|-----          !
! Secretary-Michiana R/C Choppers                   *>=====[_]L)            !
!                                                         -'-`-             !
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Fuels-synthetic oils ?
Date: 15 Oct 92 17:24:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.Bw6B0A.Hvy
Organization: Indiana University

In article <etxjema.719070320@kk270> etxjema@kk270.ericsson.se
(ETX-TT-K Andersson Mikael) writes: 
>Hi, 

>I've just bought a new engine (OS32 ABC) and I'm thinking of using
>some synthetic oil.

>In"my shop" in Stockholm they sell fuel containing 95 % methanol and
>5 % of a synthetic oil called Synex.  According to an article that
>I've read somewhere, 5 % of this synthetic oil is enough lubricant.
>This is if you "break in" the engine with this fuel. Now I'm
>wondering, in the instructions that came with the engine, the minimum
>amount of lubricant is 18 % of castor(?) oil, should I use this
>synthetic oil or stick with the usual stuff. A friend of mine runs his
>engines on this fuel with synthetic oil and they seems to run well.
>The great advantage is that his models are not greasy after a flight.
>Is there anyone else that have any experience of synthetic oils.


That seems to be a very small amount of oil. If anything I'd add another 
5% castor to it, the reason being that castor protects against lean runs. 
I use 20% of a castor/synthetic mix in my Combat motors (and 25% nitro). 

Hmmmm...

I have a couple engines I can trash.. anyone know of a similar oil here 
in the states? I've heard of Big Bangers and large (> 1 cu.in.) glows 
running on 10% oil, but not the little jobs.





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: m14494@mwvm.mitre.org (Mike White)
Subject: Glider/Submarine
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 14:02:10 GMT

My Goldberg Electra just went for a swim.  I lost it in the sun for a 
second,
and it ended up in a treetop.  When I shook the tree, it slid off an landed
in a pond.  I got it out before it actually sank, but everything got 
soaked.
It all still seems to work,  but for some reason, the auto-cutoff on the
electric motor doesn't work.  I'm using the Futaba 4NBL-E radio with
the built-in speed controller.  It's supposed to cut off the motor when
the bat voltage gets low, but it doesn't do it anymore.  Any guesses?
It's all dry now, and everything else seems to work ok.  Another 
funny thing is that the motor enable button doesn't work, either.
The motor is not supposed to run until you press a button to enable
it; it's a safety thing.  Now, it starts right up without pressing the 
button.  Thanks for any suggestions.

************************
* These are my opinions only.*
************************
From: mgwheele@author.ecn.purdue.edu (Matthew G Wheeler)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Second plane for an ambitious new pilot
Date: 8 Oct 92 20:11:57 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network


I've been wanting to get into RC planes for years, but I never
had the money or an instructor before.  As a substitute I've spent 
countless hours flying various PC flight simulators.

I bought a Goldberg Falcon III as my first plane about a month ago. I was
so excited that I built it in 8 nights.  It turned out very well I think,
although the color shceme is minimal (to save time).  I've got a .46
OS SF MAX ABC engine and a Futaba FM radio.  I've been flying using a 
buddy cord with an instructor from the local club for the last few weeks.
I'm having a heck of a lot of fun. Yesterday on my 8th flight ever I made my
first landing.   And on the next flight I took off flew around for a while
and landed with no intervention from the instructor. He seems to think 
that I'm progressing fairly quickly.

Anyway, I'm already dreaming of my second plane. Everyone I taked to before 
I bought my first plane told me to get the most stable trainer I could find.  
I didn't take their advice and I don't regret it at all. I don't think a 
trainer would have been nearly as fun as zipping arround the sky with my 
Falcon.

I'm thinking about a tail dragger with a mid or high semi-semetrical wing,
maybe a .60 size engine, maybe flaps.   Something that looks more like
a real plane than the Falcon.  I really liked the quality and completeness
of the Goldberg kit.  Maybe a Cub would be good.  I'd apreciate any 
sugestions, or recomendations for a next kit or for things to be thinking 
about at this point in my learning to fly. I don't want to get into 
something to far above my abilities, but I do want a plane that will 
chalange both my building and flying skills.

Please respond via E-mail.  Thanks a lot.

Matt Wheeler
mgwheele@clausius.ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: davidla@ecs.comm.mot.com (David Lau)
Subject: Flightcraft phone number
Organization: Motorola Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 14:13:56 GMT


	    I have recently purchased a Fightcraft Minute Man (ugly airplane)
and due to circumstances beyond my control (definitely not pilot error)
it crashed into a tree and suffered some damage.  The parts are all 
replaceable through Flightcraft, but all I have is a P.O. Box.  If 
someone could post or mail to me the phone number through which I 
could order the parts, I would be greatly appreciate it.  Better still 
would be the name of a hobby store between the Northwest Chicago suburbs
and Rockford that would carry replacement parts.

							
																																								Thanks in advance.




David Lau
Software Engineer 
Motorola Inc.
Schaumburg, IL
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: seanp@seanp.btv.ibm.com
Subject: FUTABA Micro Servos 
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 92 18:20:24 GMT
News-Software: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.037 by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers
Reply-To: seanp@seanp.btv.ibm.com
Organization: IBM T. J. Watson Research


     I am thinking of getting a smaller glider ( I have a Gentle Lady ) but I will also need some micro
    servos for a Futaba Conquest 4FM.  I've seen the S133 and the S33 Micro servos but don't know
     which is best or even what the difference is.  Any comments?? 


Seanp@seanp.btv.ibm.com
'Watson said think; He didn't say HOW"
From: egdorf@zaphod.lanl.gov (Skip Egdorf)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Hi-Start
Date: 9 Oct 92 18:36:16 GMT
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory

In article <fogarty-081092161306@126.10.4.104> fogarty@erenj.com (Ben Fogarty) writes:

   >   Just purchased a new Hi-start from Northeast Sailplanes.  Looks impressive.  Any hints/tips on using it??

   Put the ground on one end (preferably the rubber end) and hold the ground
   in place with the big nail
   Put the plane on the other end. Walk a while, turn and let go. You'll get
   the hang of it in a while.

It is short, trite explanations like this that hold back those wishing
to advance by asking honest questions. They deserve better, more
complete explanations. After all, we were all beginners once, and in a
sport like this, it's important to get the details right if we want to
get the best performance from our equipment.

The way the high-start works is to use the elasticity of the rubber to
push the Earth away from the sailplane a short way.  The line on the
rubber part is used so that the Earth can be pushed by the rubber
farther away from the sailplane than if just the rubber tubing alone
were used.

After you stretch out the rubber tubing (holding onto the glider to
keep the Earth from flying away until you are ready,) let go of the
sailplane. Notice that the Earth (and you on it) are pushed away from
the sailplane by the elasticity of the rubber tubing.  You can use
your radio to orient the Earth in such a way that the Earth gets
pushed as far away as possible from your sailplane.

Now use your radio to move the Earth around to keep it from running
into your sailplane for as long as possible.

					Skip Egdorf
					hwe@lanl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc