HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dwsmall@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Reparing a rear Defroster in a RX7
Date: 25 Jan 93 06:45:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: miavx1.1993Jan25.114556.15256
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

> 	One of the contacts on the rear defroster has come off. How does
> one go about reconnecting it. 
> 
> 
> Michael

What ever you do don't try resolering it.  You will take a chance of
shatering your rear window.  Just clean up the spot that the contact
came off with a little sandle paper, be careful not to scratch the glass.
Then use a little expoxy and glue the tab back on.  Don't allow the epoxy to 
squish out around the edges anymore than you can help.  After the epoxy
has dried get a rear window defroster repair kit, the kind with the 
copper colored paint.  Sand down the contact area and the wide side bar
of the grid that you glued it to to ensure good contact.  Paint the
area liberally with the grid repair paint and let it dry.  You may
have to run the paint down the grid an inch or so to be sure you get 
good contact. And be sure to sand the surface before you paint it, but
don't sand trough the grid.  This even works on GS and GSL models with
rear wipers. (the grid is used as a ground to allow the wiper to return
to the rest position).  I've fixed several Rx-7's of mine and friends
this way.  They all lasted until the cars were sold or some cluts yanked 
it off again.

-- 
*******************************************************************************
* Derek "Enzo" Small                   [san.dwsmall]@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu    *
*                                      Miami University, Oxford, Ohio 45056   *
*******************************************************************************
*                                                                             *
*   Long live Enzo Ferrari  !!!!!!!!                                          *
*                                                                             *
*   May his legacy nor his cars ever collect dust.                            *
*                                                                             *
*******************************************************************************
From: orr@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Ken Orr)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Date: 27 Jan 93 02:11:18 GMT
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center

In article <1993Jan26.074048.23365@news.unomaha.edu> mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
>> 	A friend hof mine has a Plymouth RS/Turbo (The same type of car as  
>> Eagle Talon Tsi and Mitsbishi Eclipse). He drove the car so hard that it  
>> reached its 60K line within 2.5 years. He was wondering whether he should  
>> go ahead and replace the timing belt as recommended in the operation  
>> manual, or wait as long as possible ?. He was so reluctant to do so  
>> because  the dealer warned him to prepare for a two days job to get that  
>> done. Consider the $54/hr cost of labor, that's going to be a Big charge.
>
>When (or if) it goes bad, replace it then.  It is a BIG chore, especially on
>front (or all)  wheel drive cars like this.  Most belts will live WELL beyond
>the 100k mark.  Mostly the belt fails because of the rubber decaying, not
>because of excessive miles.  If he is really worried about becoming stranded
>some day, then have him change it.  Otherwise, keep your money.
>
>Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
>

     The above is a terrible idea :-( When or if the timing belts breaks on
 the Diamond stars it can do terrible things to the engine, bent valves,
 damaged pistons etc. There has been alot of talk latley on the talon list 
 about this and it seems quite a few people have had timing belt related
 problems with thier cars. You can pay now or possibly pay a *WHOLE LOT $$*
 later. I'd change it as required in the owners manual and I check mine fairly
 regular (at each oil change). It may be cheaper to have an independant shop 
 do it rather than a dealer.  
  

     "86 Ninja 600R"                               K.O.
  "DOD #306 AMA #615088"                       T.I. Dallas Tx.
    "Eclipse GS Turbo"                      Orr@epcot.spdc.ti.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharam@ole.cdac.com (Sean Namazi)
Subject: Chevy Celebrity idling problems
Organization: Cascade Design Automation, Bellevue, WA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:20:41 GMT

Hi there,

The problem occurs on a daily basis. It goes to about 2500 rpm, stays there, and then slowly
comes down to normal (~850).  When it gets back to 850rpm or so, the "Service Engine" light
comes on for a few seconds and then goes off.  I should add that this happens even on high
speeds.  That is, when doing 60mph, you let your foot off the gas, then car doesn't slow
down immediately.  So, any pointers ?

Thank you all.




-- 
Sean Namazi                     | UUCP:      ...!uunet!ole!sharam
Cascade Design Automation Corp. | Internet:  sharam@ole.cdac.com
3650 131st Ave SE, Suite 650    | 
Bellevue, WA  98006             |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kokerj@vccnw07.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling engines, Eclipse timing belts (was: ... Timing Belts after 60K miles??)
Reply-To: kokerj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 13:30:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.124555.19462@linus.mitre.org>, rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau) writes:
|> In rec.autos.tech kokerj@rpi.edu wrote:
|> >In article <1993Jan26.074048.23365@news.unomaha.edu>, mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:

|> >Is this engine freewheeling?
|> 
|> No.  It is not freewheeling, just like the majority of the 4v/cyl
|> engines out there today.  The valves WILL hit the pistons.  By the
|> way... why are most 2v/cyl engines freewheeling and most 4v not?  The
|> Eclipse Turbo has a low compression (7.5:1).  It seems to me
|> compression ratio would be more of a factor than the number of valves.
 
|> > I assume that is a 16v and probably not, especially
|> >since it is made in Japan.
|> 
|> Oh really?  You mean the few 4v/cyl engines made in the US and Europe
|> are freewheeling?  I know VW's are not.  What about the Daytona IROC,
|> Northstar V8, ZR-1 engine and the new Mark VIII engines?  Are all of
|> those freewheeling.  (Oops!  forgot the Quad 4 and the 3.5 on the LH).

No, I didn't say that at all. In fact, I didn't even mention US made
cars. I based my above statement on a previous thread that
mentioned that most Japanese cars are not freewheeling. Honda's 
especially. This statement has since been challenged by another 
poster. I'm sure that there are more qualified people to resolve
this discussion than I. You're quite right about the vw 16v. But the 
belt is pretty easy to change on those.

|> The opinions stated above are not necessarily my employer's.
|> ----------------------------------------------------------------
|> Roberto L. Landrau    KC1YP    landrau@mitre.org  rll@linus.mitre.org
|> The MITRE Corporation  Bedford, MA 01730          rll@linus.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: General Carburetor Questions
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:42:17 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1993Jan27.074009.29553@cs.umb.edu> dd@terminus.cs.umb.edu (Dave Dunbrack) writes:

>than the rest of GM (olds had trips, as did caddy, and I think buick did
>as well but I'd have to check that one), The fact is that factory 4v carbs 

 The 425 engines had a 3x2 option but it went away with the advent of the 400
and 430 big blocks which had Q-jets in '67.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jin@spdcc.com (Jerry Natowitz)
Subject: Castrol Syntec???
Organization: Guest of Stephen Dyer Consulting
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 00:48:10 GMT

One month ago, falling for the ad campaigns (and Castrol's good ratings
in Consumer Reports), I bought 5 quarts and an oil filter and changed
my oil to Syntec.  As an aside, which may be relevent, the oil filter
had a bad gasket and leaked about a quart before I got another.

Now, barely 5 weeks later, the oil is filthy black.  I usually never see
the oil so dark, I change it when it is dark brown, about 2, 1500 mile
months.

I have three theories:

1) The bad oil filter allowed enough air to mix with the oil to degrade it.

2) Syntec is so good it is disolving 8 years / 125K miles of Camry sludge
   that has been accumulating in my engine.

3) Syntec is expensive crap.

Anyone care to comment?
-- 
     Jerry Natowitz
     Guest user on:
ARPA jin@ursa-major.spdcc.com
UUCP {ima,harvard,rayssd,linus,m2c}!spdcc!jin
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Frozen locks and doors
From: celliot@ocvaxc.cc.oberlin.edu
Date: 27 Jan 93 08:45:51 EDT
Organization: Oberlin College

To all auto techies:

I have just discovered this news.group and will be grateful for a solution

I have a 1984 Buick Century-T Type (4 door) and have had problems all winter
with freezing locks and freezing doors...

This is my first winter in the North where it stays cold (below freezing)
and I have not figured out what to do to keep this problem from happening.

I usually end up using deicer to unfreeze the locks and it sometimes works
on the door... Put usually I pull on the doors until I can break the hold.

Only once have I been forced to use warm water to loosen the door...

Anyone got a suggestion for me.... I realize that the ideal suggestion
is to put the car in a garage but this winter that is not possible...

Thanks
Elliot Jolesh
Oberlin, Ohio


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.radio.amateur.misc
From: sommerfeld@apollo.hp.com (Bill Sommerfeld)
Subject: Re: Taking apart interior trim of '88 Nova for a UHF/VHF ham antenna..
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:25:34 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard

Well, it turned out (after a call to a local auto repair shop) that
the '88 nova does use spring clips to keep the trim in place.

The appropriate thing to was to insert a flat-head screwdriver under
the edge of the trim, slide it from side to side until it hit
something, pry up gently, and repeat until all the clips were free.

Now to find space underneath for the cable..

				- Bill / N1FHN






Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: paint touch-up
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:40:44 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: rutgers university


    I have a small chip on my car and was wondering if it's better to get
it fixed at a shop or do it myself.

    If I do it myself is there anything I should look out for or any
special techniques?
      

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eric@eeco.cba.ufl.edu (Eric E.C. Olson)
Subject: URGENT Camaro info needed (1974 w/ 455cu in)
Organization: College of Business, University of Florida
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:25:17 GMT


I'm going to look at a 1974 Camaro tomorrow.  I talked to the guy who's 
selling it on the phone (only info I have right now), and am going to look 
at it tomorrow.  I'd like some opinions from the list before I go look at 
this puppy.

The car originally had a 6-cylinder engine.  The seller has installed a 
455cid Pontiac engine & TH400 tranny.  He said it's still got the original 
10 bolt rear end.  Allegedly good interior, new carpet.  Good body - he did 
some rust repair on it (rear passenger quarter panel).  It's in primer right 
now, and he's going to shoot the color coat on Saturday.

He's asking $900 obo... said it'd be $900 firm after he shoots the color.

What do you think?

I lust for a big block...  but can the rear handle it, or should I start 
looking for another rear NOW?  Which rear do I want?

What should I *really* be careful for on this beastie?  I don't want to be 
blinded by the rat motor and miss some major faults.  Where are the big 
rust problem areas on Camaros?  (I screwed-up once already on a '70 Stang 
that got my heart racing faster than my brain, and don't want to repeat that 
scene!)

Oh yeah, and any gotchas with regard to the 455 Pontiac?

Thanks in advance!

Eric Olson
Univ. of Florida
Organization: Electrical & Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:46:11 -0500 
From: Christopher Bradley Devlin <cd1i+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: CRX Lost MPG

Have a 91 CRX w/35K miles, lost 4-6 MPG suddenly and has not returned
after all relatively simple work done. i.e. plugs, air filter, etc.  Any
help appreciated.

Please respond to this account

Thank you in advance

Charlie

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: Natural Gas for Auto fuel.
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:35:58 GMT

johns@tfs.com  writes:
> One thing I haven't heard about using Natural Gas is anything negative.
Two words:  Accident, boom!
 
Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: RHK765@paccvm.corp.mot.com (B.M. Kwong)
Subject: cab forward design
Organization: Motorola
Date: 27 Jan 1993 13:58:11 HKT

Can anyone tell me what really is cab forward design and what is the
merit of using it?  I read it in a mag's ad. on a Chrysler car called
Dodge Intrepid.  It says that it is a revolution in architecture design
and I don't see any difference with this car except a windshield with
a smaller angle.
From: rwinham@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: MG carb question
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:05:49 -0400
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <hellmann.728021357@sycamore.cs.scarolina.edu>, hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann) writes:
> 
> I am about to come into possession of a 1974 MGB.  I understand they
> have some sort of dual side draft carb on them.  Can anyone give me an
> opinion on how hard these are to tune to each other?  I can rebuild any
> Holley you put in front of me, but I was sort of intimidated by this MG
> carb. 
Don't be. British carbs are generally dead simple, being the same design
as many motorcycles have. Unless I'm mistaken, your carbs will have an 
oil-damped dashpot on top, with a screw-off cap. This oil acts as a
damper for a combination throttle slide and jet needle that responds 
automatically to the vacuum in the carb throat. The throttle is 'downwind'
of this slide/needle arrangement, and does nothing but restrict air flow
as needed. I've never tuned dual SU's, but I can tell you that if they're
like the one on my Mini, there's an adjustment on the underside for the
needle jet, to raise and lower it in relation to the needle. This will set
your overall mixture. The only other adjustment to be made is to synchronize
the throttle valves so they are letting the same amount of air past...for 
this you will need an airflow measuring device, called a Uni-syn, which 
costs about $20. from a performance auto shop. Follow the instructions that
come with it, and adjust your throttle linkages accordingly.
If you can lay your hands on a manual, it'll help a lot to illustrate how
they work. Oh, and make sure the oil levels in the dashpots are correct
before you start. Good luck!

                                          Rus.
From: hamilton@eng.umd.edu (Andrew W. Hamilton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: windshield wipers
Date: 26 Jan 1993 02:12:24 GMT
Organization: Project GLUE, University of Maryland, College Park
NNTP-Posting-Host: bree.eng.umd.edu

yuri@amath.washington.edu (Yuri Yulaev) writes:
> 	I need new wipers : my old ones too noisy and not very efficient
> during good rain.
> 	Yuri Yulaev
> 	6553, 38th ave NE
> 	Seattle, WA 98115
> 	h:(206)-524-9547, 524-2806

Yeah, and I could use a new alternator...  :)

Andrew
From: john
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oxygenated gas
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:24:57 GMT
Organization: U of G in A

Sorry to be bringing up an old subject, but I'm new to the net and
I missed all but the very end of the conversation.  About all I've 
been able to piece together is that oxygenated gas is seasonal, it
causes poor gas mileage, and it produces less harmful emissions.  
I was wondering if somebody could answer a few questions about it.

   1) When/how long is it used in what parts of the country?

   2) On the average, how much does it reduce emissions?  Is
      this enough to counteract the increased fuel usage caused
      by poor mileage?

   3) Do the magnetic "power booster" things that clip on to
      fuel lines work as well with oxygenated gas?  (I can't
      recall any brand names of these products, but basically
      what they do is restore some positve charge to fuel.
      Apparently negatively charged fuel is safer to transport.)

Please don't "flame" me.  Like I said, I'm new to the net, and like
most new people I don't really know what I'm talking about.

Thanks,
 john
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: Inspection info requested
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 07:56:16 GMT

In article <1jmu56INNm58@bigboote.WPI.EDU> damong@vole.WPI.EDU (Damon'Fiat'Gentile) writes:
>Hi all I was wondering what it took for a car to pass emissions requirements
>in Mass or New Hampshire.   The car I have in mind is a 74 ( no clean air
>needed in Mass, don't know about NH.)   It has a catalytic converter with 
>over 100k on the converter, so Im pretty sure that it is toast. ( supposed 
>to be renewed/refilled every 25k )   But the main thing that I'd like to 
>know is how loud can loud be ?  Is this just an opinnon of the grease jockey
>trying to get another $15 out of me ?  Is it written anywhere, and where could
>I try to find it ?    

I don't know what your state/local standards are, but I think the
max for new vehicles is 80 decibels (not sure which scale thats weighted on)
at 30 feet on each side of the vehicle at WOT.



-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/
From: yuri@amath.washington.edu (Yuri Yulaev)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: windshield wipers
Date: 25 Jan 1993 03:30:50 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Applied Mathematics, Seattle
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: seattle.amath.washington.edu

	I need new wipers : my old ones too noisy and not very efficient
during good rain.
	Yuri Yulaev
	6553, 38th ave NE
	Seattle, WA 98115
	h:(206)-524-9547, 524-2806
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: Olds 455 swapping and stuff
Keywords: Oldsmobile, 455, engine swaps
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 06:00:11 GMT

In article <gzk3nzf@rpi.edu> stiegg@aix.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler) writes:
>
>
>I'm looking for swap info on Olds 455 blocks.  Basically I'm wondering if the
>block is physically similar to Pontiac and Buick 455 blocks...ie to the
>engine mounts line up and are the width/head clearances similar?

  All three of them are different...

>Obviously I have one of the beasts and no decent car to put it in (along with
>a TH400) and I'm trying to look at options...decent Old's seem scarce around
>here...one other thing someone told me that I found a bit odd is they say
>the Olds 455 block is the same size as the 350 block?!?!?! This sounds a bit
>far fetched but is it true?  Anyone have any experience swapping Olds 350 and
>455 blocks?

 They are the same except for the bore and deck height.  Engine mounts and
tranny bolts pattern are the same.  Accessory brackets may require slight
modification because of the difference in deck height.

-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ewampler@megatest.com (Eric Wampler)
Subject: Re: Please help my Blazer!
Organization: Megatest Corporation
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 23:47:22 GMT


Does your Blazer have an electric fuel pump?  The pump in my '88 Honda
Accord had similar intermittant problems which culminated in my leaving
it with my mechanic for almost a week before it failed for him.  Once it 
failed, his diagnosis was easy.  The tow truck operator had an aerosol
can of some fuel substitute that he sprayed into the carb. throat to convince
himself that it wasn't the battery (ie.  the engine fired and ran fine
as long as he sprayed this stuff down the carb, but died when he stopped).
I've seen similar products in auto-parts stores -- this could narrow 
down your diagnosis.  

Good Luck!

	- Eric W.
-- 

	{sun,decwrl,fortune,pyramid}!megatest!ewampler
Organization: Senior, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 13:57:44 -0500 
From: J Roland Defilippi <jd1y+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Poor Economy--318 Mopar

I am looking for suggestions for solutions to poor economy in an 87
Dodge Diplomat 318 2bbl.  I recently had teh engine put in while I was
travelling after the 318 4bbl split its crank doing 90mph down I-10.
I wouldn't be so upset except that I was 1000 miles from home and a
police engine should be able to take cruising speeds like that.  At
any rate, the engine is a 1983 with 80,k mi, and a Holly Economaster
Lean Burn carb.  The ignition system has been converted back to
breaker points after the computer started acting up.  Currently
the car gets 12-13mpg highway, less in the city.  The 4bbl motor
got15-16mpg highway.  The cat converters have 150,k mi on them,
but in a recent emissions test the results were 0.13% CO, 61 PPM HC.
Any serious suggestions would be appreciated.  Past 318's that I have owned
have gotten up to 24 mpg.  I would expect at least 18-20 out of this one.

Thanks for your time

--Roland

jd1y+@andrew.cmu.edu
From: slhmz@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Pontiac Sunbird Problem *SOLVED*  ReCall
Date: 21 Jan 93 01:56:39 MDT
Organization: Utah State University


Well, finally, after 250+ posts of Pontiac Subird questions, the problem
has FINALLY been solved:

For those of you who can't remeber, the car had no power, stalled frequently,
and gave off strange smelling fumes.

Lots of people suggested a blocked catalytic converter, or a blown head
gasket, but they were wrong.

Here is a list off all that was wrong:

   1.  Bad Oxygen sensor
   2.  Bad Fuel Pump
   3.  Bad CCC System (Computer Command Control)
   
Total cost...   $690.00

Note that it didn't cost me a dime.  Warranty covered the CCC (5 year/50,000)
and the dealer paid for the fuel pump and oxygen sensor.

Also, if you own a 1987 Pontiac Sunbird, you should take it to your nearest
Pontiac dealer and get you fuel line replaced.

There is a recall on the Sunbird dealing with the fuel line and they will
fix it for free.

--
Travis Carter