HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bae@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher)
Subject: Re: Hand-powered chipper/shredder?
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:16:48 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.183331.19175@edsi.plexus.COM> gcs@edsi.plexus.COM (Greg C. Steiner) writes:
>
>Is there such a device as a hand-powered chipper/shredder?  I 
>don't have $200 to spend on a 3hp electrical one.  I also prefer 
>to use elbow-grease to get my yard work done.  
>I'm not looking to chop logs...just leaves, grass and a few 
>branches that get trimmed each year.

I saw one recently at a yard sale, but didn't buy it because it was
alleged to "need alignment and sharpening", and would have been awfully
heavy and awkward to lug home on foot.  I don't know if they are still
made, but I recall seeing ads for them in back issues of gardening
magazines.  They were sold mail order and were not particularly cheap.
They also look pretty awkward to use - the top of the hopper is very 
high.  If you are tall enough to comfortably feed stuff into it, you
would probably get a sore back from bending over to crank it.  I also
think it would have to be really sharp and well-aligned to grind up
anything woodier than tomato plants, or very thin twigs.

If you just have leaves and grass, mix them together to make a compost 
pile.  Cut up the branches and put them on the bottom for aeration.
The wood will take longer to break down, but the leaves and grass will
make compost in weeks to months, depending on temperature and rainfall.

Beverly Erlebacher
Toronto, Ontario Canada
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kenr@bridge.cc.rochester.edu (Kenneth C. Rich)
Subject: Re: Tree eradication?
Summary: copper
Organization: me of Rochester (Rochester, NY)
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 12:17:36 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.001050.1427@delfin.com> mr@delfin.com (Mark Rosenberg) writes:
>klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>
>I'm wondering if there is a way to poison its root system. Suppose you
>were to drill a hole in its trunk and "intravenously" feed it Roundup

Akk! Roundup!?  (ok calm down ken....)

get a copper nail, or piece of copper rod, or _probably a penny would work,
pound into the tree.  the sap reacts with the copper and the oxide
kills the tree.

--
-ken rich                 ...zounds...                 kenr@cc.rochester.edu
From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: horseradish
Date: 13 Nov 92 19:57:35 GMT
Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department

I think horseradish must be one of those plants that in some locales
turns into a rampant weed and in other places struggles along.  I have
heard that horseradish can be QUITE invasive, but you'd never know it from 
my garden.  Here on my "homestead" in ol' La-La Land it has stayed the
same size for about 5 years, putting out green leaves part of the year, 
then dying back to the roots for a few months.  It may have gotten slightly
bigger, but has not spread in any outrageous way the way my horehound
has done, or those horrid wild passionfruit weeds (P. caerulia).

I could not tell from the email address where the person lived who had
difficulty growing horse radish.  Is Cray located in California?  Maybe
horseradish needs more winterchilling, or more humidity, to thrive and
spread.  I don't know how to prepare it. I planted my own as a curiosity.
Frankly I can't stand the taste of the stuff.  I believe roots are simply
dug up and grated and mixed with vinegar.  I once knew a Polish women who
mixed horseradish with shredded beets to make a condiment that was semi-
bearable over beef and pork.
From: marks@skat.usc.edu (Louise Marks)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pepper Plants
Date: 11 Nov 1992 10:06:54 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: skat.usc.edu

butler@vax.sonoma.edu writes:

>I've let my summer garden go for this year, but the pepper plants are
>still flowering and producing peppers.  My questions are: How long do
>these things live?  Will they make it through a Bay Area winter (mild - 
>usually only a few days a year drop below freezing)?  Will they 
>become less producitve as they get older?  Should I just dig them 
>up and start over in spring?

>Thanks for any info or comments on this matter.
>-Bob (butler@sonoma.edu)


My mother kept (effortlessly: mild winters here, too) last summer's
pepper plants going and this year they produced like crazy; the
peppers were also much bigger than last year.  After seeing how well
hers did, I'm keeping mine going too.  Definitely try it!

--Louise


-- 
  /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
  / Louise Marks                          Internet: marks@skat.usc.edu    /
  / University of Southern California     BITNET:   marks@uscvm           /
  /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Weeping Willow
Date: 11 Nov 92 14:47:52 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Sharon, when I was about 4, my folks sawed a branch off the neighbor's
weeping willow, pounded the cut end into the ground, and gave it a bucket
of water.  5 years later we had a climbable 15 ft tree, and 10 years 
after planting it was about a 30 ft. tree.   The one thing you need to 
bear in mind is that weeping willows are not terribly long-lived trees, 
and the twigs can make a terrible mess on the ground-- so I hope you won't 
have to mow in the vicinity of the tree often.

Basically, all you need to get a weeping willow going is to not actively
try to kill it.  A little 10-10-10 fertilizer may help some at first,
but you really don't need it.

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Subject: Re: COMPOSTING AT -13 DEGREES C-HOW
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:24:24 GMT

In <4NOV92.18551440@sklib.usask.ca> borsa@sklib.usask.ca writes:

>I started composting this summer and everything worked well. I have a
>nice pile to add to my flower beds.  I would like to continue thru the
>winter but how does this work in a Zone 2 where the average winter temp
>hovers around -13 degrees celcius?  Ever since Oct, temps have hovered
>around the -2 at night...+2 to +8 during the day and has nowhere to go
>but lower, nothings composting anymore, or if it is it's working VERY
>slowwly.  How do we keep it looking from looking like a frozen garbage dump
>in the middle of winter, the ground will be too frozen to cover my peels,
>egg shells, etc. let alone turn it once in a while.  How do you people
>do it?  Suggest away.  I don't think I could bear dumping all those goodies
>back into the city garbage system just because of winter!

I personally keep dumping things on my frozen heap (I live just south
of Ottawa).  Once I hit December, I don't even try to turn it and
fiddle with it like I do in the summer.  However, come spring, all of
a sudden the heap thaws out completely, and shrinks to about half the
winter volume.

In other words, I gave up on trying to beat mother nature.

HOWEVER, I have hear of people who take it very seriously, and,
therefore, want to SEE results year round.  Of the people I've heard 
discuss this, the most common suggestions I recall were:

* try to insulate the pile (increases the need for turning or aerating
by some means).  For example, stack bales of hay around it.

* make sure you have a good lid to keep some heat in and excess snow
out

* preferably your composter should be at least 3 feet in every
dimension (I think 4 feet is the maximum)

Good Luck, and let us know your results and any new tips in the spring.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rct@fulcrum.co.uk (Richard Taylor)
Subject: Re: Bee List (For ? Moroney at dec.com)
Organization: Fulcrum Communications
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 09:36:10 GMT

>Bees - any group or mail lists?
>-----------------------------
>
Here is the information on a bee list. Thanks to the people who replied - 


From: Kathie Hodge <kathie_hodge@qmrelay.mail.cornell.edu>

Apparently there's a list on bees and bee biology called Bee-L. I think it's
based in Albany, New York State.  If you'd like to try it out, send e-mail
containing only the message:

Subscribe BEE-L Your Name

to: listserv@ALBNYVM1

(that's a bitnet address)  They'll send confirmation of your subscription, info
on listservers, and info on how to get copies of past discussion (archives). 
I'm not familiar with this group, I just happened to see it in a list of
listserv groups shortly after reading your request in rec.gardens.  Good Luck!

PS
--
For ?.Moroney - 
Couldn't get through to you at the address -
    'moroney@ramblr.enet.dec.com'
to email you the details.


Regards,
============================================================================
Richard Taylor DoD #981 (rct@fulcrum.co.uk)              Heard on Radio 4:-
"One of the first signs of the male menopause is buying a Harley Davidson."
============================================================================
Fulcrum Communications Ltd., Fordrough Lane, Birmingham, B9 5LD, ENGLAND.
From: jca@druwa.ATT.COM (Jill C. Arnson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Chippers,Shredders, Lawn Vacs
Date: 12 Nov 92 20:45:07 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Nov10.231408.8486@fns-nc1.fns.com>,  writes:
> any experience with this device in particular and Troy-Bilt equipment in       
> general?  I would appreciate all comments pro and con.  The unit also comes
> in a self-propelled version and a push version.  I would like the self propelled
> version but can't justify the additional price.  How pushable is the other
> version?  My yard has a moderate slope.
> 
> We are also considering a shredder with vacuum hose by MTD.  It isn't pushable
> so you have to bring the leaves to it.  Does anyone have experience with this?
> Paul Holzworth
> fns-nc1!hph@mcnc.org

	This mail kept bouncing when I attempted to reply to the
poster. fns-nc1 is not a valid address. 

	I have the 3 HP Troy-Bilt chipper shredder.  I am VERY happy with what
it does.  Just did my fall yard cleanup last weekend.  Reduced a huge mound of
debris to a compostable amount.  It does weigh over 100 lbs. so it is not very
movable.  The discharge shute shoots things out at a high speed so I do it up
against the garage wall to contain it more.  They do sell a bag attachment,
but I don't think I'll get it, a tarp works just as well and you can keep an
eye on the discharge chute easily to keep it from getting clogged.


jill c. arnson		AT&T Bell Labs, Denver; (303)538-4800
jca@druwa.att.com or att!drutx!druwa!jca
*** "When you climb high, remember that the beauty you see is only an
illusion created by G-d to keep your sanity."


--
jill c. arnson		AT&T Bell Labs, Denver; (303)538-4800
jca@druwa.att.com or att!drutx!druwa!jca
*** "When you climb high, remember that the beauty you see is only an
illusion created by G-d to keep your sanity."
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tree eradication?
Date: 13 Nov 92 14:46:25 -0600
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Nov13.121736.11515@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>, kenr@bridge.cc.rochester.edu (Kenneth C. Rich) writes:
> get a copper nail, or piece of copper rod, or _probably a penny would work,
> pound into the tree.  the sap reacts with the copper and the oxide
> kills the tree.

I prefer not to use this method because copper salts can be quite toxic
for soil algae.  We're just learning some of the functions of algae in soil
like nitrogen balance.

Kay
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tree eradication?
Date: 11 Nov 92 11:53:00 -0600
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Nov11.001050.1427@delfin.com>, mr@delfin.com (Mark Rosenberg) writes:
> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
> : Just keep up the mowing.  As soon as you find a new sprout, remove it.
> : Eventually you'll exhaust the food reserves in the roots.
> : 
> : Alternatively, you can apply one of the glyphosate preparations like
> : Roundup to the leaves.  That's a quick-decomposition herbicide that's
> : one of the least toxic to non-plants, and you can just sponge it on
> : the leaves so you aren't poisoning everything else.

> I'm wondering if there is a way to poison its root system. Suppose you
> were to drill a hole in its trunk and "intravenously" feed it Roundup
> or some other toxin. Would the tree's circulatory system pump the
> poison throughout its root system?

One of the other herbicides like Tordon might work this way-- but I refuse
to use Tordon-- it's too toxic for me (yes, I know Nature Conservancy uses
it occasionally, but I don't).  Glyphosate screws up photosynthesis, and
needs to be applied to green tissue.  If the stems are young enough, there
might be enough green cambium available to kill with glyphosate, but I
wouldn't count on it.

Actually, another technique that works well on suckering plants like
aspen is to simply strip about 1 or 2" wide bands of bark from EACH
stem (main and all the suckers).  The plant will continue to grow--
it can get water and photosynthetic reserves from the roots -- but can't
translocate this year's sugars to the roots for storage.  So the roots
starve, and the entire plant dies.  With trees that sucker or clone
freely, though, cutting the tops once just encourages more sucker formation.
You either have to keep at it with mowing every month or 6 weeks, or you
have to strip the bark, or you have to use an herbicide...

I usually use a utility knife to cut a ring around the tree through the
bark, then a slot screwdriver to pop that ring of bark off.  Takes about
a minute to ring a tree that way.

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kay@zen.uta.edu
Subject: care-free garden
Organization: Univ. Texas at Arlington, Arlington, Texas
Distribution: rec
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 04:43:53 GMT


We are planning to make a care-free garden for a new house.
The backyard (facing west) and the frontyard are about
1,200 sq.ft. each. We are thinking of a patio style
backyard with paved surface by brick or concrete so that no
lawn mowing in hot Texas summer is necessary. Any
suggestion ? Are there any alternatives for lawn?

Thank you.

Kay Sekio
From: ljane@devnull.mpd.tandem.com (Linda Cast)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Eleagnus?
Date: 5 Nov 92 22:10:12 GMT
Reply-To: ljane@devnull.mpd.tandem.com (Linda Cast)
Distribution: austin
Organization: Tandem Computers; Austin TX
Originator: ljane@ocean


 Someone on this or another group mentioned eleagnus as being a fragrant
 shrub, tho not a particularly handsome one. None of my many garden books
 list this plant - can anyone tell me more about it? Does it have a
 different latin name?

 Thanks,
 Linda

-- 
Linda Cast             ljane@mpd.tandem.com
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RFI:Selective herbicide for bermunda grass
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:51:27 GMT
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory


  Need a herbicide that will inhibit the growth of bermuda grass but that
zoyisa is tolerant to.

Kris
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: fw@ramirez.Princeton.EDU ()
Subject: Camellia scions
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:56:19 GMT

This is the first message I've ever posted...I wonder if somebody can 
help me with a gardening question?
My problem:
I have recently become addicted to camellias, which I grow on an enclosed 
porch.  I have a catalog from Nuccio's Nursery in California,
in which they offer for sale not only camellia plants, but also (and 
irresistably inexpensively) camellia scions.   I am sorely tempted to buy   
some of the scions, but I'm not really sure what they ARE....are they 
cuttings? And how does one propagate from scions? In the catalog, they
say "each scion will have one growth bud, but most ...will have 2 or 3 
graftable buds".  Does this mean that you have to have some kind of root 
stock to graft them onto? 
Any advice  will be most greatly appreciated ...Thanks!
Frances White
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: donath@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (Matt Donath)
Subject: Re: hedgeapples
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 22:24:59 GMT
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA

From article <1992Nov10.190713.14394@colorado.edu>, by jessup@dot.cs.colorado.edu (Elizabeth Jessup):
> Are hedgeapples the same thing as Osage oranges?
I have been told that they are the same.

>  I once saw a home 
> decorating magazine that effused over the decorating value of a "well-placed
> basket of Osage oranges".  Hard to imagine.
> 
Well, if you like green brainy looking things.  I rather like them, but I
agree with your comment.
From: jewett@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Bob Jewett)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 01:55:44 GMT
Subject: Re: fungus gnats again (sorry)
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

> > Right now, my venus flytrap has fungus gnats _real_bad_, but just
> > ignores them.  Stupid flytrap.

> Fungus gnats are too small to trip the trigger hairs in Venus flytrap.
> The amount of nutrition the plant would get from the insect is less than
> what it costs the plant to close the trap (and traps will only close
> about 3 x).

Also, if the insect is small enough to escape between the fingers of the
trap, (ants, gnats?), the trap will reopen without going into its firmly
shut digesting state.  This also allows the trap to recover from random
tripping.  The trap will close and digest about three times, but will
close and quickly reopen more times.

>>is there a carnivorous plant which would take care of the little
>>*%#&@s ?

Maybe a sundew like Drosera capensis?  Easy to grow from seed.

Bob
From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Horse-radish (plant from hell)
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:18:59 GMT
Organization: Carleton University

In <1992Nov12.092837.1@tesla.njit.edu> sjo2693@tesla.njit.edu writes:

>Anyone out there have any experience with growing horse-radish...how
>deep do you plant the root...what does it look like when it's growing
>when do you harvest?????Any info would be helpful..

I have not grown horse-radish, but I know two different growers who
have.  They both shudder at the mention of growing it.  

It seems it has a deep, strong root system that is difficult to
eliminate.  One of these growers required hours to try and eradicate
the spreading menace from his garden, and he wasn't completely
successful.  It took a couple years to get rid of it, after the
initial planting.  

One suggestion I heard was to sink a tub, or other confining device,
into the garden in order to contain the roots.

On the positive side, I think it is supposed to repel potato beetles.

bye
From: mr@delfin.com (Mark Rosenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tree eradication?
Date: 11 Nov 92 00:10:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: delfin.1992Nov11.001050.1427
Distribution: usa
Organization: Delfin Systems, Sunnyvale, CA.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
: In article <1dccsnINN3i4@morrow.stanford.edu>, AS.JMW@forsythe.stanford.edu (JILL M WOODS) writes:
: > In article <lfj6goINN8ki@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu>,
: > langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes:
: >>simple mowing takes care of ailanthus around here;
: >>birds seem to be the real vectors
: > 
: > I have tried this.  The plant does not die or go away, it just sends
: > up two starts to replace the one mowed down.
: 
: Just keep up the mowing.  As soon as you find a new sprout, remove it.
: Eventually you'll exhaust the food reserves in the roots.
: 
: Alternatively, you can apply one of the glyphosate preparations like
: Roundup to the leaves.  That's a quick-decomposition herbicide that's
: one of the least toxic to non-plants, and you can just sponge it on
: the leaves so you aren't poisoning everything else.
: 

I suspect that I will soon have a more than academic interest in this
problem. We've got a huge ailanthus and many mature suckers. It currently
is by the road and is only doing a little damage to our driveway but
I notice suckers starting to come up near our garage.

I'm wondering if there is a way to poison its root system. Suppose you
were to drill a hole in its trunk and "intravenously" feed it Roundup
or some other toxin. Would the tree's circulatory system pump the
poison throughout its root system?

--
Mark Rosenberg
internet:mark@delfin.com
phone: (408) 562-1126	fax: (408) 748-1140
snail: Delfin Systems, 3000 Patrick Henry Drive, Santa Clara, CA 95054-1814
From: butler@vax.sonoma.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pepper Plants
Date: 5 Nov 92 23:03:24 GMT
Organization: Sonoma State University

I've let my summer garden go for this year, but the pepper plants are
still flowering and producing peppers.  My questions are: How long do
these things live?  Will they make it through a Bay Area winter (mild - 
usually only a few days a year drop below freezing)?  Will they 
become less producitve as they get older?  Should I just dig them 
up and start over in spring?

Thanks for any info or comments on this matter.
-Bob (butler@sonoma.edu)
From: leone@wpi.WPI.EDU (Dave Leone)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Tulips
Summary: Tulips
Date: 10 Nov 92 23:20:15 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu

Salutations...

Can anybody tell me how tulips keep their species from extinction (how
do they reproduce)?  I couldn't find another group more qualified to
answer my question, aside from maybe rec.sport.pro-wrestling.  Do the
things pollenate, spontaneously generate or ...?

Please e-mail responses to:
leone@wpi.wpi.edu
or if you want to irritate somebody:
jmcginni@cs.ulowell.edu
				I don't usually read this newsgroup.

Have a day.
From: kyle@cgsvax.claremont.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Need Garlic Advice
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:24:12 GMT
Organization: The Claremont Graduate School

Hey folks,

	This may seem like a dumb question, but I ask dumb questions 
all the time.  I love garlic and usually buy a lot when it's on sale.  
Some times some of the cloves in my refridgerator start to sprout.  I 
took a couple of these and put them in an outside pot.  They've 
sprouted to about 7 inches and with multiple sprouts.  My problem is 
that I have never grown garlic and I don't know when they will be 
ready to harvest or if there is something special I need to know about 
caring and harvesting them.  Any advice would be apreciated.

Thanks,
Kyle Stephens
Kyle@cgsvax.claremont.edu
From: ewg@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Ethan Gannett)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 18:38:52 GMT
Subject: Re: greenhouses
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA