HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cartwright@tgv.com (Denise V. Cartwright)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: bridal veils
Keywords: yards of stuff
Date: 22 Jul 92 06:39:00 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona MIS Department - Mosaic Group
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41
X-Lunar-Date: 5 days, 10 hours, 50 minutes since the full moon


I just recently tackled this particular project.  I got two patterns- one
McCall's, the other Vogue.  They gave lots of useful advice.  

I bought most of my stuff at Britex in SF.  The lace selection alone was worth
the trip up there- they also had all the forms you could possibly imagine and
the staff (at least in the lace section) were extremely helpful. There is
practically everything you could possibly put on a veil available there. 

I also bought a glue gun (horrors!). It's a small one-- and with some practise
I managed a nice neat line- the pearl edging on the veil looks great! (Pats
self on back.) I had originally thought I would use my serger to just edge the
veil- however I got talked into pearl edging- and it looks a lot nicer.

Other piddly odds and ends came from my local Beverly Fabrics. 

The best booklet on making a veil, though, came from G Street Fabrics back in
Maryland- where this whole event is actually taking place. It was free and if
you write, and provide a stamped, etc envelope, they just might send you a
copy.  It was really the most useful source for deciding what length to choose.

Have fun.

-Denise
==========================================================================
I don't work for TGV.  They're nice folks and gave me this account, so
every now and then I make them a cheesecake.  It seems to work.
========================================================================== 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Subject: Help in getting alt.fashion
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 13:45:57 GMT

Please help.

I have a guest account here so have a somewhat tenuous situation.  I tried 
to ask the system administration to get alt.fashion but was told it would 
be added sort of automatically.  I hasn't yet and I'm getting tired of 
waiting and I can't even post to alt.fashion; my listserver won't let me.  
I'd really like to read this group!  Is there someone willing to forward it 
to me?  Or can I 'subscribe'?  How does one do that anyway?

Thanks for any help.

--Jill Miller
--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    |
From: burd@pilot.njin.net (Barry Burd)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: vintage-clothing
Keywords: vintage-clothing
Date: 24 Jul 92 02:59:29 GMT
Distribution: nj
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


I've inherited several boxes of womens' clothing - mostly from the
40's, 50's and 60's.  I'm not a collector of such things myself so I
don't know what to do with them.  Some of them are just
ordinary clothes but many of the items are nice dress clothes.  Any
suggestions?  I live in Morris County, New Jersey.

Please reply to bburd@tarzan.drew.edu or to bburd@drew.bitnet.

Thank you.
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2273 rec.crafts.textiles:1407
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: help: kinsale cloak
From: thompson@gumby.mgi.com
Date: 28 Jul 92 09:17:52 CDT
Organization: Management Graphics, Inc.


Ok once again I am back asking for help with a cloak pattern.

I have order and received the Kinsale cloak pattern for Folkwear.
This is for my son, the pattern looks great except for the hood.
The hood appears to be a little to ruffly for him on the drawing.
Has anyone who has made this cloak motified the hood?  How did you
do it?  He wants a hood on the cloak.  Or does the hood not look
as feminine when complete, Wesley is thirteen years old so this
feminine/masculine stuff is fairly important to him, he wants a
cloak like a wizard would wear.

thanks in advance
maggie
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Sewing machine reviews
Date: 28 Jul 92 18:00:36 GMT

The Autumn 1992 issue of "Quick and Easy Quilting" has the first in a
series of articles reviewing new sewing machines, in search of the
"Quilter's Dream Machine". The first review covers the Viking #1
Husqvarna. The author is Starr Luteri.  Later articles will cover
the Pfaff 1475CD, Elna, New Home, Bernina, and Singer. To obtain a 
copy, contact House of White Birches, Quick and Easy Quilting,
P.O. Box 11302, Des Moines, IA 50340-1302 (a full year subscription
costs only $9.95). Since the magazine is published only four times
a year, it may take more than a year to cover all these machines! 

--marina

To paraphrase the article's main points:

1. "For the most part, I liked the Sewing Advisor, which is sort of
a computerized teacher built into the machine which regulates the
tension and offers suggestions for which pressure foot, pressure level
and needle is appropriate for the type of fabric and stitch being used.

Problems came up when I set stitch length and needle positions to suit my
piecing only to have the computer switch back everything each time I turned
my head! The easiest solution was to program my choices of needle positions
and stitch length into the computer memory. Then whenever I was ready to 
do piecing, I could punch up that memory and the machine was ready to go.

2. The biggest promotional feature of the Viking is the mult-directional
feed which enables side-to-side and diagonal stitching. However, this is
not useful for machine quilting as the stitches are as tight as satin
stitches. 

3. Freehand quilting is a delight. I did not need the special foot, but by
simply reducing the presser foot pressure, I could guide the basted quilt
under the needle in all directions and the tension remained perfect. Even
wihtout the even-feed attachment, virtually no puckering occurred with
cross-hatch quilting.

4. For applique, the satin stitch could have been more even at the edges,
but the ease of tapering in and out of corners was outstanding. The 
hemstitching for invisible applique required more effort, the bobbin thread
insisted on popping up to the top until the needle thread tension was
reduced to nearly as low as it would go.

5. The best feature of the Viking was the manufacturer's support. Of all
the companies, the people at Viking have made the best effort to be
 helpful. The local dealer also went out of her way to help me.

6.Nice features:  A lighted display warned me when the bobbin thread was
about to run out. There are two lights, one over the main body of the 
machine and one directly over the needle. Three thread cutters hold
thread ends out of your way, avoiding tangles. Different presser feet
snap on and off without needing to fiddle with screws. The cords store
away right inside the foot control, which then hangs on a nifty hook
at the back of the machine for storage.
 
7. To sum up, the Viking is a simple-to-use, well-designed, quality 
machine, but it isn't the quilter's dream machine yet.
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: kduling@whocares.nmsu.edu (Kevin J. Duling)
Subject: Existing Cross-Stitch Software
Organization: New Mexico State University
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 04:51:48 GMT

There are already several existing cross-stitch programs. I have two
shareware programs. One is very good and I've paid the registration
fee the other I'm not very fond of and will probably be getting rid of
it unless I can make it work better than it seems to. There are also
several companies that offer photo to cross chart transilation and
provide dmc, anchor colors and even complete kits. The chart
transilation is about 19-25 dollars. Maybe this will help the person
who want to turn a photo into cross-stitch. Good Luck! If you need
more info I'm glad to help.
 
                         -Kathleen Duling
-- 
 -=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-=*=-
Kevin J. Duling                     UNIX                       kduling@nmsu.edu
New Mexico State University        VM/CMS               oprkjd@nmsuvm1.nmsu.edu
Computer Center/Small Systems       VMS                   CC4831@helen.nmsu.edu
From: jlecher@pbs.org
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Computer Altered Patterns
Date: 20 Jul 92 21:18:34 GMT
Organization: PBS:Public Broadcasting Service, Alexandria, VA

In article <TIGGER.92Jul16223557@satyr.Sylvan.COM>, tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan) writes:
> In article <1992Jul14.152631.1944@primerd.prime.com> annet@hob6.prime.com (Anne Tormo) writes:
>
> Good idea, I trace my patterns (with my daughter's crayons) onto DoSew
> (much like cheap interfacing). That leaves the original intact if I
> need to use another size....

On the same idea, I use the white tissue paper that can be bought for a
song at the 'after-Christmas' sales. I have a whole drawer full.
Of course, you have to tape several pieces together for a big pattern
piece, an inconvenience. I use it mostly for tracing baby clothes
patterns. 

>
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: chantal@osf.org ()
Subject: lining topology
Originator: chantal@next12
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 18:43:21 GMT

Here's something that fascinates me: how can you most efficiently
invert a lining that you've sewed on?

I sewed a sleeveless dress with a half-lining (no front or back
seam).  I put the lining and the dress right sides together
and stitched at the neck and armholes.  Then I tried to turn
it inside out by pulling the whole dress through the shoulder
strap.  It didn't work.  

I had to take out all the stitches in one of the shoulders to
invert it, then stitch it all back together again.

Does anyone understand this problem in topological terms?  Did
I have a closed torus?  Did I have an inside and an outside at
all?  I'm confused.

Also, in practical terms, is there an easier way to do this?

Chantal
chantal@osf.org


-- 
--------------------------------------------
Chantal Eide (chantal@osf.org)
--------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,alt.fashion
From: aatresa@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (Teresa Kline)
Subject: Re: Kurdish Pants
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Yeah, *right* !
Date: 31 Jul 1992 08:11 EST  

In article <1992Jul30.233135.1227@vlsisj.uucp>, joannl@vlsisj.uucp (Joann Loos) writes...
>Folkwear has a pattern that has Indian and Middle Eastern
>style pants in it.  
> 

Do you have an address or phone number for Folkwear??

-- Teresa

		Life -- just for the FUN of it!!!!
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: American flag quilt
Date: 27 Jul 92 18:28:41 GMT

> If I were to do a quilt, should the stripes be one piece, or several 
>squares? How best could the heart be done? How about the quilting part? >And
>backing? One color or reversible?
>
>Basically, has anyone ever crocheted or quilted the American Flag?

Even if you have never quilted, this should be quite simple. Decide on
the size you want the flag to be, and figure out how wide to cut the
stripes. It would be easiest to cut each stripe from one piece of fabric
in the appropriate color. Cut the star area in one large piece , too. Sew
all the stripes together and then applique the heart onto the star block.

For the backing, maybe one of the new flag prints would work. There are
several variations, some with just stars and some with stars and stripes
together. They are hand-dyed and fairly expensive but I picked some up
for half price at an after-the-fourth of July sale. 

You could probably quilt just along the seams fo the stripes, depending
on how wide they are you could add more rows of quilting down the
middle of the stripes, too. In the plain area around the heart, you
could quilt some stars, or just a simple grid pattern. (Straight lines
are much easier if you prefer to machine quilt.) 

Sounds like a fun idea, let us know how it works out!

--marina
From: kale@usc.edu (Nitin Kale)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: need basic sewing machine
Date: 22 Jul 1992 14:53:33 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu


hi, 

i am shopping around these days to buy a basic sewing machine.  i need it to 
build kites so one with just a basic straight stitch would do. i dont need 
any frills !! 
	could any one suggest a portable, <$150, sewing machine(walking foot?) ? which
is a good place to buy them ? mail order companies ? 

i would appreciate any suggestions, comments etc.

thanx

nitin
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2230 rec.crafts.textiles:1364
From: bell@pooh.cs.unc.edu (Andrew Bell)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: ordering fabric
Date: 21 Jul 92 17:05:26 GMT
Followup-To: alt.sewing
Distribution: na
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill

Hi there!  I now have my White Serger 734DW which I can't wait to
use.  In addition, I may have a new job soon which requires me to
wear serious work clothes, no more sweats and jeans.  :-(

Anyway, my question is this:  I currently get fabric samples from
Fashion Fabrics but am not crazy about their selection.  Do any of
you get fabric samples that are nice -- ie:  microfibers, rayon,
nice polyesters, wools, etc. and are reasonably priced?  If so,
could you please email me their name/number and tell me what their
specialty is.

Thanks,

Leslie Bell
bell@cs.unc.edu
(on vacation from 7/26 until 8/7, so I won't be able to reply
thanks during that time)

Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: motto@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (mary.rita.otto)
Subject: Re: Help with cross stitch/DMC
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 15:34:38 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.170501.2435@vuse.vanderbilt.edu> laura@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Laura M. Edwards) writes:
>Could someone help me out?  I used to have the list of DMC clors
>that run, but I can't seem to find it, now that I really need it.
>Also, is the recipe to set the colors something along the lines of
>1 cup hot water, 1/4 teaspoon salt, soak ten minutes, rinse and dry?
>
>Much appreciated!
>
>
>More questions:  what is blending filament, and where do you find it?

Blending filament is a thin metalic fiber used in embroidery or cross-stitch
to provide sparkling highlights to a piece of work.  It can be a lot of fun.
One of the major manufacturers is Kreinek, which, I believe, is actually
located in TN.  However, since you have also asked about obtaining linen
I would like to give you a more comprehensive answer.  Phase I:  Check
you yellow pages under "Needlework" and call some of the shops listed.
Craft store chains usually do not carry the range of even weave fabrics
available, discouraging stitchers who are disappointed to see only white or
natural (brownish) linen in at most one or two thread counts.  You need
to find a specialty store that will have bolts of linen in a wide range
of colors and thread counts, as well as fabrics like Jobelan and Lugana.
Phase II:  If you can't get what you want from the local merchants, then
I recommend Mary Jane's Cross and Stitch at 1-800-334-6819 to get a catalog
for $7.25 (via UPS) with a $5 off on $25 coupon.  This is no ordinary
catalog.  This is a looseleaf notebook filled with pictures of every pattern
book, gadget and framing item you could ever imagine.  And, it includes
little swatches of the fabrics available.  Furthermore, I think her prices
are very reasonable.  And she sends out updates of the catalog and sale
flyers.  Just the thing if you want something hard to find.

Good luck and happy stitching.

Mary Otto
>
>If you want to work on linen, is there a specific type to use?  I'd like
>to try it, but I haven't found any yet here, other than bolts at the fabric
>store.
>
>Thanks again!   
>
>Laura
>laura@vuse.vanderbilt.edu
>


Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: laura@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Laura M. Edwards)
Subject: Help with cross stitch/DMC
Originator: laura@space2
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 17:05:01 GMT

Could someone help me out?  I used to have the list of DMC clors
that run, but I can't seem to find it, now that I really need it.
Also, is the recipe to set the colors something along the lines of
1 cup hot water, 1/4 teaspoon salt, soak ten minutes, rinse and dry?

Much appreciated!


More questions:  what is blending filament, and where do you find it?

If you want to work on linen, is there a specific type to use?  I'd like
to try it, but I haven't found any yet here, other than bolts at the fabric
store.

Thanks again!   

Laura
laura@vuse.vanderbilt.edu

Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: mon@cray.com (Muriel Nelson)
Subject: Re: lining topology
Date: 23 Jul 92 17:33:21 CDT

In article <1992Jul21.184321.7964@osf.org> chantal@osf.org () writes:
>Here's something that fascinates me: how can you most efficiently
>invert a lining that you've sewed on?
>
>I sewed a sleeveless dress with a half-lining (no front or back
>seam).  I put the lining and the dress right sides together
>and stitched at the neck and armholes.  Then I tried to turn
>it inside out by pulling the whole dress through the shoulder
>strap.  It didn't work.  
>
>I had to take out all the stitches in one of the shoulders to
>invert it, then stitch it all back together again.
>
>Does anyone understand this problem in topological terms?  Did
>I have a closed torus?  Did I have an inside and an outside at
>all?  I'm confused.
>
>Also, in practical terms, is there an easier way to do this?
>
OK, since nobody else seems to want this one, I'll take a
stab at it.  I used to have to teach people how to sew the
armholes of a lined, insulated vest, wherein the edges were
stitched together except for a small opening along the lower
back edge.  The collar had already been sandwiched in between 
the lining and the shell.  I never had to describe this in 
words, without being able to show someone.  

The garment is inside-out and the neck edge is attatched.
Place the wrong sides of the underarm together, then turn
just the edges so that the right sides face each other. 
Grab them from underneath, reaching up between the wrong
sides of the lining and the shell.

Secure them with a safety pin if you like.  Make sure the 
side seams match.  Pull the pinched-together right sides 
towards the inside of the garment so that you can begin 
the seam.  We didn't use pins, but I think it should be 
possible to safety-pin the upper sleeve edges at the shoulder 
seams together before beginning too.  I'm not sure whether 
this will make the operation more awkward or not.  If you're 
doing it right, this will be _very_ awkward, with only a small 
section of your seam lying flat before you at any given time.  
If it feels like an unnatural act, you're probably doing it 
right. 

When you've sewn both sleeve edges together, the result
will look impossible until you turn it.  Eventually,
we started applying the collar as the last step, and
lived happily ever after.

muriel
standard disclaimer
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson)
Subject: Re: Necessity is ...
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 20:08:09 GMT

In article <Brtw28.2st@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ccuppern@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Cyndi Cuppernell) writes:
>cfeem@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Eleanor Midkiff) writes:
>
>>Thanks to Jan and others for the bowtie idea.  My son is 6'3",
>lifts
>>weights, and has a terrible time tying his only bowtie
>(store-bought)
>>because his neck is so big.  So do bowtie patterns come in sizes? 
>Does
>>anyone have any idea how long a bowtie should be for *large* men?
>


When I started making bowties and cummberbunds for my husband to 
 match the shoes and purses I made for evening wear I used a pattern
 for both the bowtie and cummberbund.  Now I only use the pattern
 for the cummberbund.  My husband wanted the bow part larger than it
 was.  Rather than alter the pattern I took an old tie apart to see
 how it was made.  Much to my surprise it was just a square piece of
 material gathered in the middle, held together by a ring of the same
 fabric.

 I don't know if I can do this or not but I'll try:

       A-------------    Make square as shown on left. 6"x6" finished
	|     |     |    Make strap 1"x 20" tube from same material 
	|     |	    |	 Make ring from tube 
	|     |     |	 Ring opening should be about 1-1 1/4" diameter
	|     |     |	 Bring A & B together to pull thru ring. 
       B-------------	 Center ring- Fan out outer edge to form bow
			 The tighter the ring the better.
			 (Napkin ring effect)
			 Finish ends of tube add hook or velcro slip
			 thru ring at back.
			 
My husbanc gets the right size bow and neck length everytime as well as
match accessories to my dress, shoes and purse.

Good luck,

If this sounds like something that would work but you can't figure out my
instructions, let me know your address and I'll make up a little sample and
send it to.

F [:)

 .
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,alt.fashion
From: joannl@vlsisj.uucp (Joann Loos)
Subject: Re: Kurdish Pants
Reply-To: joannl@vlsisj.uucp (Joann Loos)
Organization: Compass Design Automation/VLSI Technology, Inc. (San Jose)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 23:31:35 GMT

Folkwear has a pattern that has Indian and Middle Eastern
style pants in it.  

  joannl@compass-da.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: annet@hob6.prime.com (Anne Tormo)
Subject: Last posting (for awhile anyway)
Organization: Prime Computer
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 13:45:43 GMT


This group has been an inspiration -- providing new ideas, new techniques,
and consequently renewed energy in my sewing.  Thanks to all!

The cpu-design group at Prime Computer has ceased-to-be and so I
shall be searching for new challenges and making new opportunities
for awhile -- and happily spending some time with my guys!

Anne
From: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Old World Santa
Date: 27 Jul 92 18:21:58 GMT

>Does anyone know of a good pattern for making the "Old World Santa's"
>I am an experienced sewer but working with fur etc will be trickey.  I
>am looking for the most detailed pattern.  Also, if anyone knows where I
>can buy real porcelin for the head, hands and feet that would be helpful.

Cross Stitch and Country Crafts sells a nice pattern for about $5. You
can also buy the kit with hands, head and feet, but I don't think it
is porcelain, it's some kind of plastic-compound that looks like 
porcelain.

The price in my latest catalog for the kit is about $18. That does 
not include the fake fur, etc, just the pattern and body parts. They have
an #800 number but I don't have it here with me, I can look it up if
you need it.

--marina

Newsgroups: alt.gopher