HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fhage@virga.rap.ucar.edu (Frank Hage)
Subject: Gentle Lady building
Reply-To: fhage@virga.rap.ucar.edu (Frank Hage)
Organization: Research Applications Program/NCAR, Boulder, CO
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 21:47:35 GMT


I've built a Gentle Lady and two Electras (an electric version of the
GL) and by far the most vunerable structure on the plane is the
elevator and the fuselage directly underneath it. I've laminated cross
wise grain balsa (to the stock pieces) on the inside of the empenage to
improve strength. The wing on the GL is plenty strong if it's built
correctly. Make sure to wet the gluing surfaces of the plywood dihedral
braces completely with glue and then *clamp* them to the spars while
they dry. Adding shear webbing between the spar tops and the leading
edge sheeting definitely helps stiffen the wing, but is probably not
necessary unless you want to use a winch to do zoom lanches. (which the
GL is *not* designed for!) I've used my stock GL on heavy duty hi-starts,
for slope soaring, and cart-wheeled it on crashes without breaking the
wing. It's the tail hitting rocks, and clumps of grass when landing
that has done the most damage. I prefer to catch the GL by hand, if I
can, rather than risk the tail. My planes always seem to find the
rocks on the landing field. It ain't called Boulder for nuthin, 'round
here! :-)

-Frank Hage. National Center for Atmospheric Research. Boulder, Colorado.
From: nebres@iftccu.boeing.com (Dan Nebres)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Conversion of radio to RS232
Date: 18 Nov 92 16:22:27 GMT
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane Group

/ iftccu:rec.models.rc / sysrick@noao.edu (Rick McGonegal) /  6:53 am  Nov 17, 1992 /
In article <1992Nov17.080934.32734@kronos.com> ed@kronos.com (Ed Baker) writes:
>In article <1992Nov16.192827.6372@samba.oit.unc.edu> tracton@radonc.unc.edu
> (Gregg Tracton) writes:
>>
>>Model Netters,
>>
>>Does anybody know how to convert a Futaba Attack-4 radio so that it
>>outputs RS232 in place of it's radio signal?
>
>RS232 describes the physical method of sending digital data over a serial
>communications line; it does not prescribe the actual information being
>sent/received.  Questions of baud rate, character length, parity,
>character set, etc. must be addressed.  Then the format of the data must
>be described.
>
>The radio outputs a variable resistance for each of it's channels.  This
>value must be measured and converted to digital format for transmission
>on the RS232 line.  A circuit could be built to accomplish this, but the
>interface requirements would have to be documented.
>
>>Then, I could use it with a flight simulator.
>
>If so, then you need to know the baud rate and protocol for the particular
>software package.

Although a relatively expensive way to do it the AeroChopper flight simulation
program includes a modified Futaba radio and interfaces to the computer through RS-232.

FWIW

rick
----------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507))
Subject: Radio Selection (really!)
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:29:12 GMT

Not to change the engine discussion which is starting under the Radio
Selection thread, but :-)...  

I  was an RC flyer up until about 13 years ago (my, how time flies!).  In 
brief spare moments between my job, my thesis and my kid (who's not yet 
old enough to get into it :-), I consider picking it up again.  I have a
Kraft 5-channel radio.  I watched the radio selection discussion, and didn't
see Kraft mentioned.  Seemed like they were one of the popular choices back
when I was still active.  Have they gone out of business or otherwise fallen
into disfavor?

Ken
---
staffan@serum.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: nave@jato.jpl.nasa.gov (Joe Nave)
Subject: Airtronics Equipment
Keywords: $ALE, $ALE, $ALE 
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Distribution: misc.forsale,rec.models.rc
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:00:37 GMT


In an effort to migrate all my planes to a single system (a Vision), I am 
selling the following in almost NEW condition:

	1 Airtronics 6ch. TX Vanguard System (Gold Stickered)
          PCM/FM selectable (w/rechargable battery)
	  Channel 21

	1 Airtronics 6ch. Dual Conversion Receiver
	  Channel 21

	3 Standard Size Airtronics servos

	4 New AA rechargable cells (so you can make your own RX pack)

	1 Airtronics charger (for RX & TX)


All above is for sale for $170 OBO.  I pay the shipping.
(I am open to negotiations.... :-)


Please send e-mail to: nave@jato.jpl.nasa.gov if you are interested.

-- 
Joachim Nave			nave@jato.jpl.nasa.gov
Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Pasadena, California
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Realistic P-40 Kit
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 09:18:09 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

>I am looking for a realistic kit for a P-40 preferred size 60
>I have looked through the Royal and the other big names and 
>cannot find any kits that are not foam -- which I do not want.
>If any of you know where I can find a wood kit for a P-40
>would you please contact me -- Tim Kelley -- kelley@sanddunes.scd.ucar.edu

Top Flite makes a P-40 Warhawk kit, all wood.  Takes a strong 60 to
fly it.

Great Planes bought out Top Flite recently.  To date, they have updated the
F4U Corsair and P51D Mustang kits in an impressive manner - greatly reduced
the time and effort to build, as well as improving the realism and strength
to boot.   So... maybe it might be worth the wait to see if Top Flite
will revamp the P-40 kit as well.  You could give Great Planes or Top Flite
a call....

For the record, the older kits are not too bad.  The wood is a little 
bit on the average size, and it's fairly complex, but still a builders
model.  And, they'll be cheaper now if you're willing to put up with the
"older design" bugaboo.

  -swb-  (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch (Peter Nyffeler ,x4399)
Subject: Re: Carnard style plans avialable???
Reply-To: peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch
Organization: ETH-Zuerich, Physical-Chemistry-Lab. - Switzerland
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:20:00 GMT

I found some plans of scale Canards in the Planbook from VHT (Germany) and MRA (France)

from VHT:
	Vari Viggen, WS 1.05m, 6.5ccm		plan # MT748
	Quickie, M1:2, WS 2.6m, 30-35ccm	plan # MT908
	Varieze, WS 0.94m, 0.8-1.7ccm		plan # MT0062	(origin USA)
	Saab Viggen, WS 1.09m, 6.5ccm impeller	plan # MT0031	(origin UK)

from MRA a interesting free fligth model 
	Curtiss Ascender, WS 1m			plan # 321

here the adresses:

        VTH
        Verlag fuer Technik und Handwerk GmbH
        Postfach 1128
        D-7570 Baden-Baden 1
        Germany
        Fax ++49 7221 21 07 52
	-->Plan Book DM 12.80 (airmail DM 14.80) VISA or MasterCard accepted.
        
        Model Reduit d'Avion
        12 rue Mulet
        F-69001 Lyon
        France
        Tel ++33 78 27 30 51

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                  __________
Peter Nyffeler                                   / ___  ___ \
ETH-Zuerich, Physical-Chemistry-Lab.            /     \/     \ 
Switzerland                                     |  ___  ___  | Soaring
e-mail:peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch                     |     \/     | Club
fax: ..41 1 252 34 02                           |  ___  ___  | Zuerich 
tel: ..41 1 256 43 99                           \     \/     /  
                                                 \__________/ 
                                             + Control-line modell enthusiast
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: Re: Another Fiberglassing Question....
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
	<1992Nov17.152802.26427@rtsg.mot.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 16:41:55 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.152802.26427@rtsg.mot.com> svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda) writes:

   In article <1992Nov16.162843.26528@informix.com> robertw@informix.com (Robert Weinberg) writes:
   |
   |How do you make the fiberglass lay down nice and tight while the epoxy sets up?

   Use polyester resin instead?

			   Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL

To get epoxy to work better, try warming it up with a heat gun. As it gets
thinner, it will penetrate the cloth much better. The heat will also tend
to speed up curing. (Using "fast" epoxy is almost a guarantee of difficulty.)

Still, epoxy wants to be a little too stiff and sticky to work as nicely
as polyester resin. Also, laminating resin is more adhesive than the
finishing resin.

Good luck.

L.
.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: liggio@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Vincent J. Liggio)
Subject: Re: Another Fiberglassing Question....
Reply-To: liggio@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Vincent J. Liggio)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 15:55:43 GMT

I agree with the 3M-77 spray adhesive method, but one thing that I haven't
seen mentioned is thinning the epoxy before applying it.  To do this mix
about a 1:1 ratio of isopropyl alcohol with your epoxy, and then brush it
on with a disposable brush.  Thinning the epoxy allows it to penetrate the
3M stuff and get absorbed by the balsa a little.  CA is bad for this if you
build foam core wings.  The glass requires a little more work to get a
smooth finish because the epoxy doesn't smooth out the surface with a layer
of epoxy as much (don't sand the bare glass!).  You also do not have to
remove excess epoxy.  Use a grain filler such as HobbyPoxy's H90 (?) Grain
Filler, and then sand.  This reduces the amount of glass that gets sanded
to a minimum, and produces a great finish with little effort.  Then paint
with your favorite epoxy paint (or other preferred method).

As for corners, the 3M adhesive allows you to get them with a lot less
headache.  Try not to place the cloth in multiple strips.  Try instead to
cut the glass from the top into wedges so that they come together when you
go around the corner.  This retains more of the fiber strands.

When I glassed my 1/5 Scale Rutan Long-EZ Canard Pusher, I had to glass the
whole body _and_ wings.  The wing is an eight piece foam core/balsa sheeted
wing (with winglets), and I glassed it using two layers of 2oz glass on the
inner wing and two layers of 3/4 oz glass on the outer wing.  Make sure you
overlap any places of intersecting glass by about 1".  The body was also
glassed with one layer 3/4 oz glass.  All this sounds like it would make
the plane like lead, but the wing is supprising light.  It has a 64.5"
wingspan, and winglets, and it weighs less than my trainer's 60"
spar-construction wing.  And is about 10x stronger (well, I wouldn't stand
on it, but it is strong).  Not only that but it has a much nicer and more
durable finish (about 15 layers of Hobby Poxy White and Gloss coat (sounds
like a lot but they were very, very thin, misty wet coats)).  It took a lot
of work (about 650 hours, about 1/3 the time to build the real plane!), but
it was worth it, and I would do it again.  Well worth the effort. 


Vince
Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:4695 rec.models.rockets:3030 rec.models.scale:438 rec.models.railroad:2380
From: mhart@blackjack.dt.navy.mil (Michael Hart)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,rec.models.rockets,rec.models.scale,rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: tall tales and war stories
Date: 20 Nov 92 01:15:40 GMT
Followup-To: rec.models.rc

In <BxzB95.1Jw@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:

>OK people...

>What are the best rumors/tall tales/stories you've heard? They
>can be true, untrue or unconfirmed - most of these would probably 
>involve the proverbial "heckuva deal".

Don't you know what the warning signs of a war story are?  They always
start with "And this ain't no shi*", or "And there I was".

I have two.

The first is the "heckuva deal", and it happened right here on 
r.m.rc.  'Bout two years ago, I was advertising looking for a
plane to buy in Florida around Christmas.  We always go down and 
spend a week or so with my in-laws and visit my parents.

Anyway, gentleman writes back, he's got an Avistar ARF for sale, 
and some other odds and ends.  Seems like a good deal, so I send my
father-in-law to consummate the deal - $100 for the plane and 
I think an OS40FP.

A couple of days later, my father in law calls, says he's got a whole
bunch of stuff for me.  The guy tells him, "What the hell, I don't 
have the time/interest to continue the hobby, I'll dump everything I
have to ya for $100."

Net result: 
	1 completed field box, fair condition
	1 unopened CG flight box
	2 power panels
	new Hobbico 12v battery
	starter
	Royal rechargeable glo-lighter
	4 gals. 10% fuel
	Hobbico Avistar ARF
	pieces of 2 or 3 other planes
	a non-91 futaba 4 channel radio w/ 3 servos
	OS20FP
	OS40FP
	2 x .049's
	2 rolls covering
	some extra pieces

Best $100 I ever spent!


Story 2:
Just when I was learning power, and flying a DuraPlane during
Christmas break in Florida.  I wasn't landing yet, but was flying
around the field after my instructor handed off to me.  He had me
practicing approaches.  At the far edge of the runway, there was 
about 6' of rough stuff (tall grasses) about 6" tall; beyond that 
there was your typical Florida wild stuff, about 6 feet tall.

Pulling up after an approach, I got 'stupid fingers' and lost it.
The DuraPlane rolled over, just about straight down, into the 
tall scrubby stuff.  I was sure it was a goner; in fact, once it
went below the top of the scrub, I was turning to hand the
radio to my instructor while I went to fetch the plane, and
ZOOM! here comes the DuraPlane up out of the grasses!  I was
amazed.  Got it more or less straightened out, and handed off
as soon as I could!

And that ain't no sh**!
--
|   Michael G. Hart                   mhart@blackjack.dt.navy.mil    |
|--------------------------------------------------------------------|
|     You think _I_ speak for the government or the navy?  HAH!      |
| Aviation, computers, quality improvement, Northern Exposure, money |
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: A Fiberglassing Question....
Date: 15 Nov 92 20:31:42 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.models.rc, billg@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Bill Gingras) writes:
    (covered H glider w/F'glass cloth & minimal resin)
>
>Does applying another layer of epoxy and sanding to fill in the weave
>result in a stronger structure or does it result in a slightly heavier
>structure that looks nicer but isn't any stronger?
>
    Any additional epoxy adds no strength, only weight (and smoothness,
for reduced drag).  The purpose of the resin is to glue the glass fibers
together, so they won't slip relative to each other.

-DaveP
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: chapin@ssvax.gte.com (Barry Chapin)
Subject: Boston area R/C car racing?
Organization: GTE/SCSD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 01:32:42 GMT

Hi,

I jumped right into R/C car modeling, buying/building a Kyosho
Outlaw Rampage .12 OS CZR powered GAS engine truck.

Personally, I 
thought building the car was much more fun than running it, though
I can't wait for snow/ice to come.  It is an easy way to meet
women in the Boston Commons though, better than any dog.

Are there any tracks in Massachussetts / New England (I live in Boston)
that run/race this type of vehicle?  I guess it would have to be
outdoors due to gas fumes.  

My brother, who lives in Upsatate New York (Rochester) would also
like info on tracks/events in that area.  He's totally into these
things.  He modified the hell out of the engine, and the 2WD truck
(Same model as mine) pushes 50 MPH.  He's got a bunch of other
trucks too, one hits around 80MPH, I think with a .21 OS and a
suppercharger.

Also, for the flyers out there:  I really enjoyed building the truck.
Staying up till 3-4am some nights, having to work the next day.
I would like to get into flying now, am want a real chalenge.  
Preferably above a starter plane.  In reality, tell me if I'm in
left field, I would love to build a helicopter, but have heard
flying these beasts is out of control.  I was told when I bought
the gas truck that it was advanced for a starter vehicle, but
had no problems with it.  Is it totally of of reason to look
into building a helicopter?  I have quite a basement / toolset /
and mechanical design / physics background.  What are prices
for heli kits?  I would also be interested in building it, and
maybe selling it after its built, although I would enjoy a crack
at flying (crashing?) it, but would not enjoy the expensive loss.

Are the majority of the pilots out there also REAL airplane/heli
pilots?  How similar to a real helicopter doe the R/C fly (ie:
are all the same flight controls present, or are the R/C's 
greatly simplified.  You are welcome to flame me for my ignorance
in this area as I say I want to build one/fly it.  Comments
welcome.

-Barry Chapin
Engineer / Systems Administrator
GTE Governmemt Systems.
Waltham, MA.  02154

-I am who I am, as well as my opinions-


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: moskowit@panix.com (Len Moskowitz)
Subject: Re: Another Fiberglassing Question....
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:47:23 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC


David Svoboda writes:

>|How do you make the fiberglass lay down nice and tight while the epoxy
>|sets up?
>
>Use polyester resin instead?

If you're going to use polyester, please wear eye protection.  One drop
of the catalyst in your eye will permanently blin you and redyce your
eye to a hard brown mass.

To make the fiberglass lay down tight, cover it with a layer of Saran
wrap (or any plastic food wrap) and smooth it down.  The epoxy does not
stick to it so you can remove it after the epoxy sets up.

-- 
Len Moskowitz
moskowit@panix.com
From: bdm@druwa.ATT.COM (Brian Millham)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Batteries Dump - Strange.
Date: 17 Nov 92 18:34:09 GMT

in article <1992Nov16.140934.12440@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse) says:

> I went racing in the 1/10 scale off-road electric 2WD Mod Buggy class
> this weekend for about the 8th time at my favorite track.  I have raced
> there several weekends where I had recorded the motor, gears, and battery 
> that I used to finish a race.  This weekend, for all 3 qualifiers and a main,
> I could not finish a race without dumping, eventhough I was using the
> same setups that had worked before.  I would dump slightly after 3 minutes
> on a relatively fast, non-twisty course, at that.  The only new element
> at this race was that instead of peak charging by watching a DVM, I used

You can't really go on past experience at the same track.  Did they
water the track more than normal?  Had the track been dragged, so that
it had a looser surface than normal?  A wide open course will kill
batteries quicker than a twisty track.  As long as the batteries were
warm when you took them off the charger, then it doesn't sound like
you are having problems with false peaks.

Did you try a smaller pinion or larger spur gear?
--
Brian Millham     |Kitty      |Fletch |Dragon's Lair |Kick Man |New World
AT&T Bell Labs    |Ferrah     |Buddy  |Space Ace     |Sinistar |High Speed
Denver, Co.       |Dr. Pepper |       |              |         |
bdm@druwa.att.com |(ferrets)  |(cats) |(laser disc)  |(video)  |(pinball)
From: mikey@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com (Michael Manlove)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 17:19:19 GMT
Subject: Re: A Fiberglassing Question....
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

billg@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Bill Gingras) writes:

>
> Does applying another layer of epoxy and sanding to fill in the weave
> result in a stronger structure or does it result in a slightly heavier
> structure that looks nicer but isn't any stronger?
>
Everything I've read indicates that the strength of fiberglass comes from
the glass itself, not the resin (whether epoxy or poly).  The resin is only
there to hold the glass in position.  Once the glass is firmly attached to
the structure, filling in the weave would just add weight.


>  Bill G
>
mikey  (Mike Manlove)  (mikey@cup.hp.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: Jim Cook <J.Cook@ENS.Prime.COM>
Subject: Epoxy Sensitization?
Reply-To: <J.Cook@ENS.Prime.COM>
Organization: Prime Computer, Inc.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 22:11:50 GMT

In another thread on epoxy vs. fiberglassing, in article
<1992Nov19.164506.26095@rtsg.mot.com> svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
writes:
...
>And while polyester smells bad, it does not induce a damaging sensitization
>(allergy) like epoxy does over time. 

Okay, call me curious, what is the sensitization we are talking about here?
And why is it "dangerous"?

What I really care about is how likely I am to become sensitized.  That would
make modeling the pits!

Thanks,
Jim

Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:4668 misc.forsale:31502 ny.forsale:1963 ont.forsale:1268
From: v129raaq@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Richard T Ciesla)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,misc.forsale,sunyab.forsale,ny.forsale,ont.forsale
Subject: R/C CARS AND EQUIPMENT FOR SALE (even lower prices!)
Date: 19 Nov 92 06:31:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I have the following for sale: Best offer by Tues, Dec. 1, 1992 takes it!

ASSOCIATED 12LW GRAPHITE - 1/12th scale on-road car w/graphite chassis,
                           Nissan GTP body, stock motor, Futaba S132H
                           high-speed mini steering servo, various 48
                           pitch gears, three Panasonic P-170 1700 SCR
                           4-cell battery packs, turnbuckle steering rods.
     Asking $150 plus shipping or best offer.
            ^^^^

ASSOCIATED RC10L - 1/10th scale on-road, fibreglass chassis, stock motor,
                   Futaba S148 steering servo, 4-40 turnbuckle steering
                   rods, Holeshot motor heatsink, three Sanyo 1400 SCR
                   290+ 6-cell battery packs (configured for oval racing),
                   Chevy Lumina body, various 48-pitch gears.
     Asking $150 plus shipping or best offer.
            ^^^^

Misc. R/C Car Equipment

Futaba Magnum Jr. - Pistol grip transmitter w/tx/rx crystal set, includes a
                    Tekin mini-receiver, but no servos.
                    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Tekin 408s Electronic Speed Controller

Protech 701 Nicad charger, AC/DC, adjustable amperage w/ammeter, mechanical
        timer removed, but it still works using the 'voltage' charging method,
        I'M INCLUDING A POCKET-SIZED DIGITAL VOLTMETER WITH IT!

SPECIAL DEAL!!!

Take the Radio, receiver, ESC, charger, and voltmeter for $100 plus shipping!
                                                          ^^^^
(sorry, i can't sell any of these items separately)

MORE SPECIAL DEALS!

Take either car with the above package for $225 plus shipping, or make an offer.
                                           ^^^^
Take both cars (without the radio, etc.) for $275 plus shipping or B/O.

And finally, you can have both cars and everything else for a total of 
$350 plus shipping!!!!!                  
^^^^

Remember, all prices negotiable!!!!!

Best offer by Dec. 1 takes it!!!

Thanks,

Rich
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc