HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: hi-tech aeration
Date: 18 Aug 92 23:28:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: hacgate.22944
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs


I'm planning to make a wort aerator by attachching an in-line bacteria
grade air filter to an acquarium pump outlet.  my question is,
when should i begin and end my aeration?

my best guess is to begin aeration right after pitching yeast,
and continue until the first signs of fermentation begin???
--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: shirley@fdr.jsc.nasa.gov (Bill Shirley [CSC])
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Brew pots from Kegs.
Date: 13 Aug 1992 15:33:40 GMT
Organization: Software Technology Branch - NASA/JSC
Originator: shirley@fdr


In article <18033@polstra.UUCP>, larryba@polstra.UUCP (Larry Barello) writes:
> In article <22703@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> Aaron Birenboim writes:
> >...
> >> - how do i cut it? Do it myself? Welder for hire?
> >
> >If you want to cut your own, go to a local equipment rental
> >(like zodiac here which rents everything from fertilizer spreaders,
> >roto-tillers, fork-lifts, saws to...)  I'm not sure what kind of
> >saw you want, but just tell them you wish to cut some stainless.
> >They'll rent you the appropriate saw.  plan on buying 4 or 5 blades to
> >do the job though.
> 
> I purchased some bi-metal plastic cutting blades for my variable speed
> jig-saw.  One blade cut the top off a standard size miller keg (SS) and
> was still cutting strong at the end.  I just kept the speed down, the 
> pressure up and some WD-40 on the blade and it worked like a charm.  It
> took 30min to take the top off.  Stainless Steel is very tough stuff.
> -- 
> Larry Barello			uunet!polstra!larryba

I heard that stainless has very bad heat distribution problems, and
that (the expensive) stainless steel pots have some kind of alloy
bonded to the bottom of the pot to aid in heat distribution.

Do you attatch something to the bottom of the kegs?
Do you set in on an aluminum plate?
Do you pound copper to the bottom of the keg?
Do you just count on your MegaBunsenBurner (TM) to do the job?

or
Do you have some other method for improving heat transfer efficiency?

-- 
Bill Shirley		| Not only are the Republicans coming to town, but the
shirley@fdr.jsc.nasa.gov| local Fun Police are cracking down on victimless 
			| crime.  Houston has become a scary place to live.

This is actually my employer's opinion, and you should persecute THEM. ;-)
-- 
Bill Shirley		| Not only are the Republicans coming to town, but the
shirley@fdr.jsc.nasa.gov| local Fun Police are cracking down on victimless 
			| crime.  Houston has become a scary place to live.
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: RE:Full Moon Porter
Date: 14 Aug 92 11:41:02 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

in:
Group: rec.crafts.brewing, Item 5235  
Subject: Full-Moon Porter (13 August)
From: Dino_P._Chiesa@transarc.com, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Writes:
"I used Charlie's "step infusion" for the specialty grains, 125 deg. F
(20 mins), 135 (15 mins), 155 (20 mins), and 170 (15 mins).  I did a
mini-sparged with 170 degree water and a strainer."

If you only have dark grains why are you trying to mash them?  You needn't
be worrying about all this temp control, unless you have grains containing
enzyme.  You need to add Pale malt to get enzyme activity to perform a mash
or add enzyme direclty.  You'll still get all the color and flavor out of 
those dark grains if you just steep them in hot water (below boiling) then
strain them out before you add extract and boil.  

Additionally,  if you are going to add any grains-  be sure to include 
crystal malt.  It will add a lot of body and head retention you might
miss out on with an extract (it has always been my favorite specialty 
grain-  just try munching on some and you'll see what I mean!)

        next step-    a true half mash, then a full mash and
                voila!  All Grain Brew!                               
_____________________________________________________________________
                                J. Wyllie (The Coyote)
                                SLK6P@cc.usu.edu

"As long as he's got 8 fingers and 8 toes, he's alright by me."  H.J.S.
_______________________________________________________________________
From: comfrank@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Frank Tutzauer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Federal law on green glass (was Re: Source of Bottles)
Summary: Not
Date: 14 Aug 92 04:27:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Aug12.144938.3776@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>, 
klett@ghill.enet.dec.com (Michael Klett) writes...
> 
>As an aside...
>someone mentioned an interesting Federal law.
>It seems that imported beers in standard shaped bottles must be green glass.
>It seems that the Domestic Beer Industry convinced Congress that the American
>consumer was so stupid that they needed a simple way to distinguish between
>domestic and imported brew.  It seems to me that they lobbied for this just
>so that imported beer would light struck on the shelf causing the Domestic
>beer to taste better and hence, purchased more often.  Does anyone know
>more about this?


Mike, this can't be true.  First, what is "standard shaped"?  Long
necks, Miller-shaped, what?  Second, think of all the imports that
are in other-than-green:  Labatt's (brown), Sam Smith's (clear), Brand 
(opaque white), Corona (clear), Bass (brown), etc. etc.

Still, it's about the kind of stupid law the feds (or many 
state legislatures or municipalities) would pass.  :-(

--frank
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Questions about mead/wining
Date: 17 Aug 92 14:37:10 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <betel.713826693@camelot> betel@camelot.bradley.edu (Robert Crawford) writes:
>	In case your worried, a pack of (dry) wine yeast, an airlock,
>and a rubber stopper for the fermenter should cost a total of about
>three bucks.
>	The rubber stopper should have a hole in it (to insert the
>airlock), and a number 8 or 8 1/2 will fit nicely into the jug.

  The "apple juice" type gallon jugs seem to come in two sizes.
The "wide mouth" is about 8 or 8.5, the narrower mouth ones
are around 6 or 6.5.  Compare your jug to others around to
determine if you have "wide mouth" or "narrow mouth".


--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rich@progress.COM (Rich Lenihan)
Subject: Re: Beer Expiration
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 14:39:30 GMT

hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:

>How long does a bottled chilled batch of homebrew last?

Until you drink it.  ;-)

No, really.  What do you mean by "bottle chilled"?  If you mean "bottled
beer, kept cool", then anywhere from three months to 3 years, depending
on yeast, gravity, sanitation, oxidation and thirst.

-Rich



--
Rich Lenihan                 UUCP: mit-eddie!progress!rich
Progress Software Corp.      Internet: rich@progress.com
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: GLASS CARBOYS
Date: 14 Aug 92 21:09:36 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Aug14.145028.8406@midway.uchicago.edu> hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:
>I'm planning on starting brewing sometime in Sept due to temperature issues
>(I don't want anything to go wrong for my first ever batch!).  Currently 
>I am in the process of picking up the equipment.  I have been in touch
>with Brewin Beer in Chicago and they sent me their price list.  Overall it
>looks good.  However I think that the fermenter is plastic.  I really do not
>want a plastic fermenter (after having read all about the sanitation issues).
>Are glass carboys easily available.  From the pictures in Papazians book
>they look like bottled water bottles.  A plastic fermenter costs about
>$15.  What would a reasonable price be for a glass one?  Are they easily 
>available?  Can anyone give me a phone # of a place that carries glass
>carboys?  Or can one pick one up from a hardware store or something?
>Thanks
Try anyplace that sells bottled water (food coops etc) for about
$10 you get the carboy.  Some places are  only carrying plastics.

note: I still use a plastic fermenter as my primary then rack
into a glass carboy secondary.

Jeff Copeland
Atmospheric Science
Colorado State University
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Re: EBEWS (Exploding Bottle Early Warning Syste
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:03:24 GMT

   A friend and I both use the two-handled capper (THC).  Although
these THCs appear almost identical, and are made by the same company,
his has plastic jaws, mine has adjustable metal ones.

   The plastic-jawed THC has problems with bottles whose rims have
a rounded profile, but works fine for bottles with a sharp lip.
My metal-jawed THC works with both bottle types.  Neither of us
have had sealing problems, although I'm sure he would if he didn't
purge his stock of the rounded bottles.

   Note that we've seen both bottle styles from a common manufacturer
on many occasions.

-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 I said it, not Moto:      	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 They think I'm working!	*
*********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: EBEWS (Exploding Bottle Early Warning S
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 22:44:17 GMT

In article 23542@midway.uchicago.edu, rm34@quads.uchicago.edu (Robert James Mohammed Monk) writes:
>In article <BszKIE.53M@wrs.com> gak@wrs.com writes:
>>My bottle collection is large enough now that
>>I simply discard bottles with short collars.
>
>I've noticed this as well.  Rather than toss all of those perfectly good 
>bottles, though, I've found that if you rotate the bottle 90 degrees and re-cap
>(give the cap a second squeeze) it works just fine.

For some reason that doesn't work for me.  Every brewery's different, I suppose.

>The way I see it, if you can afford to throw away bottles, it's evidence that
>you're not brewing enough!

Nah...in my case, it's evidence that my apartment is Way Too Small, and
if I didn't get rid of them, I'd be up to my friggin armpits in
bottles!

I'd give them to a brewer-in-need, but I don't have them anymore.  (The
bottles, not my friggin armpits.)

However, I will offer six champagne bottles (empty) to any nearby
brewer who can use them.  (I can't.)

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch micht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: r.c.b.CLASSIFIED SECTION
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 14:36:16 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

jkdickin@yoho.uwaterloo.ca (John K. Dickinson) writes:
: In article <1992Aug12.053858.7689@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:
: >
: > 
: >                rec.crafts.brewing-forsale
: ....
: ....
: > I would insist on only the following restrictions:
: > 
: >   The same item shall not be offered or requested more than   
: >  once in a 30 day period.  
: > 
: >   All entries should be limited to 5 lines per sender.
: 				^^^^^^^^^^^^^
: 		How about 5 lines per item? Especially if the seller has
: unusual items (requiring a description) or so many items that it doesn't
: fit in five lines. I would want a description of an Item I was considering
: buying. But that is my taste and this is up to you as you said:

My idea was to consider it more like an ad.  You pay by the inch or word and arefforced to be concise.  You only put in enough to get people to ask for more 
information via another midium.  

Reading detaild descriptions and prices would get too tedius and be a waste
of bandwidth on the public network.  Here is an example:

Super Deal on Canned Wxtract,  Name Brands, $5 per can.
For details, arf@super.deal.com

It can be that simple.               

js

: > I do not believe this would violate net.etiquette nor do I 
: > think any vote or consensus is required because I have to do 
: > all the work.
: ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
: 
: 	Just 2 cents worth.
:
From: "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: yeast culturing
Date: 14 Aug 92 09:25:51 EST
Reply-To: "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


Has anyone tried "The Yeast Culture Kit Company" products? They seem
to offer quite a few strains of both lager and ale yeast and I was
wondering how they compared to Wyeast products. 

It would seem to me that streaking a decent selection of Wyeast would
give similar results, are these guys doing something different? 

By the way, is there a "copyright" on yeast strains? Sounds silly but
what prevents me from recultivating my favorite Wyeast and selling
gobs of it to everyone I know up here in Canada, at half the price??
The problem seem to me to be isolating strains with desirable qualities,
propogating more cultures from these strains would be the easy part.

I hope the Wyeast thugs don't come break my legs now that I've mentioned 
this....

....GA 
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #11377  Brewer fails CRC - More bottles than caps
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Subject: Re: no Labels
Reply-To: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Organization: E 4th St Home For The Overeducated Underemployed - Chicago Div.
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:20:40 GMT

>>) A good soak in very hot water (soap?  eh...)  and scrape them with a cheap
>>) knife.

The *easiest* way I've found is 10 minutes in hot water and a piece of
steel wool.  Boiling is a pain, knives are dangerous...
								reb
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Low O.G. - what's a brewmeister to do?
Keywords: DME dumb
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:51:08 GMT
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO

In article <mcnally.714261222@wsl.pa.dec.com> mcnally@wsl.dec.com (Mike McNally) writes:
>mal@genrad.com (Mike A. Long) writes:
>>OK, I'll admit it.   Whenever I brew, I follow the recipe to the letter.
>>But when I take my S.G. for the original gravity, I usually get a VERY
>>low reading.
>...
>>To give you an indication, my brew's recipe called for an SG of 1.042, and
>>I am reading 1.020...
>
>If you're extract-brewing, I suggest you make sure that you're really
>following the recipe; it'd be hard to wind up that far off.
>
>If you're mashing, then it looks to me like there's a problem with
>that process.  You could have crushing problems, temperature problems,
>pH problems, equipment problems, or process problems.  Perhaps you 
>could post more details.

There is also the following possibilities:

The hydrometer, even though it reads accurately at 1.000, may be faulty.

Bubbles clinging to it would cause it to float higher, giving a higher than
expected reading (obviously that's not the problem).

The hydrometer should be read at the bottom of the meniscus.  If read at the
top of the meniscus, the reading would be slightly lower than expected but
not 22 points!

Temperature adjustments need to be made (I believe they are typically
baselined at 60F) but this should only amount to a few points.

If the wort is not mixed quite well (settling begins immediately) when the
sample is drawn off, the reading could be way off.  I've done this myself and
found huge errors.

Good Luck,
Norm
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 12:29:58 EDT
From: <SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: labels...

In article <1992Aug12.154540.28480@athena.mit.edu>, bfbrown@athena.mit.edu
(Brian F. Brown) says:
>
>I was just wondering how difficult it is to make and apply your own
>labels to bottles...  I'm not really fond of writing codes on caps
>to remember which bottle is which brew, and I think having a label
>adds a certain sophistication to your homebrew...  any thoughts???
>
>-BB

Well, Since I sterilize my bottles in the dishwasher, I'd have to get those
labels off of the bottles every time I refilled them.  Major pain in the butt.

                      -Stephen
From: "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: murph's shit came in!
Date: 14 Aug 92 09:25:51 EST
Reply-To: "glenn anderson" <glenn.anderson@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


BM>What am I going to do with the opened, half-empty can?  6.6 pounds of
BM>this syrup CAN'T make 5 gallons of good beer, right?  Can it be stored

You may want to try freezing it in an ice cube tray
 and use chunks for a starter with your first batch of liquid yeast.

You seem to have exactly what you need to become a sucessfull brewer, a
good attitude! I enjoyed you chronology of events and descriptions, 
being in your rookie batch is awkward when dealing with those that
have experiance, I know, but you handle yourself well.

Using ALL 10oz of those Cascades will probably lock you mouth in the
puckered position. May want to cut back to 1.5 oz


Good luck.........GA
---
  DeLuxe 1.21 #11377  Brewer fails CRC - More bottles than caps
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mrbill@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Bowen)
Subject: Re: Removing labels from commercial bottles
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 16:42:49 GMT

In article <1992Aug11.201246.22607@news.nd.edu> ulick@chopin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>
>Experience makes me dubious.  While I didn't try overnight with sodium
 carbonate...
>Admitedly, I didn`t try what you propose, and perhaps it's worth trying...

Ulick, given your remarks above, I have just one question for you:
What experience?!

Cheers, 

Bill
mrbill@leland.stanford.edu
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Grains - after mashing, then what?
Keywords: malt, grain, cooking
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:39:02 GMT
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA

In article <1992Aug18.030147.10322@ddsw1.mcs.com>
 arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:

>In article <4243@wet.UUCP> sbeitzel@wet.UUCP (Stephen Beitzel) writes:
>>The next batch I made when I was prepared, and I tried turning the
>>grain into bread, but wound up with a very flavorless breadstuff
>>that went uneaten and got turned into compost.
>>
>>So, what do you all do with your spent grain?

>Make bread of course.  You just need a workable recipe.  Try this:

>3 cups spent grain (wet)

[stuff deleted]

Of course, when using spent grain you have to be wary of any hard kernels 
left.  People have cracked their teeth on these.  Presumably a good milling 
job will take care of this, but it might still be worth turning the grain 
into flour before cooking with it.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: nielsen@mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com (John Nielsen)
Subject: Re: Exploding carboys ?????
Organization: LMSC Santa Cruz
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 16:43:39 GMT

In article <1992Aug13.201852.28800@awdprime.austin.ibm.com> bj@artie.austin.ibm.com (Bjarne 'BJ' Hansen) writes:

>After brewing two batches in a plastic bin, I have decided to buy
>a glass carboy.
>I just received a porter kit from 'Great Fermentations', and the 
>instructions says NOT to single-stage ferment in a glass carboy,
>and they know of more than 10 exploding glass carboys.
>I've read Papazian, and, there is a picture of a glass carboy with
>a hose for the foam, so what's the deal ????

>Any comments on one-stage vs. two-stage vs. brewcap welcome (please
>remember: Make beer, not war :-) )

>Cheers
>Bjarne 'BJ' Hansen
>Car freak and home brewer
>All opinions are mine. All models over 18. Your mileage may wary.
>Batteries not included. Void were prohibited.


Personally, I always do my primary fermentation in 7 gal glass carboys with 
a blow-off tube into a small bucket of clorox/water solution.  The I.D. of 
the  tube is 3/8" to help prevent plugging, then after primary I transfer 
to a 5-gal glass carboy with an air lock bubbler for secondary. This has 
always worked with no problems on even the most violent of ferments, a 
barley wine, with foam being pushed out the blow-off tube.

Hope this helps.

HOPPY BREWING

	JOHN 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Canadian Flamewar  (was: Canadian pissw
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 18:12:40 GMT

Holy cow.  I never thought I'd have more
than one entry in my r.c.b kill file.

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing