HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: lapping
Date: 12 Jan 93 15:43:03 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

In article <63330@mimsy.umd.edu>, purtilo@cs.umd.edu (Jim Purtilo) writes:
> 
> Let's talk "lapping".....

(stuff deleted for brevity)

Another firearms area where lapping is done, is to lap bolt faces to match
the chamber, supposedly resulting in smoother operation, and perhaps
evening out the forces on the lugs (though if they were that far mismatched
in the first place, mere lapping may not help).

In the few contexts where I have heard the term, the definition seems to
vary, but generally refers to very fine grinding or polising of parts,
sometimes together (such as bolt lugs in the chamber), or sometimes
apart (such as lapping a cutting tool on a very fine grinding wheel, such as
a blank metal wheel with diamond dust suspended in water).

Didn't Porsche lap the cylinder heads to the block, avoiding the need
for a head gasket?

From Webster's:

"to dress, smooth, or polish (as a metal surface) to a high degree of
refinement or accuracy"

"to work two surfaces together with or without abrasives until a very close
fit is produced"

"a smoothing and polising tool ..."

I'm sure others can add some more to this discussion!

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: Collet Holder Dimensions?
Followup-To: poster
Originator: neidorff@makore.uicc.com
Keywords: 5C Collet Lathe 
Organization: Unitrode Integrated Circuits Corp., Merrimack, NH
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:19:28 GMT


I want to make a 5C Collet nosepiece for my lathe.  I have some
old 5C Collets and know that the lathe nosepiece is large enough
to take them.

Does any kind soul have a drawing of the dimensions of a nosepiece
which holds 5C collets correctly?  Specifically, I am interested in
the inside diameter, taper, size and location of the locating pin, etc.

Alternately, does anyone know where to buy this sort of thing cheap?

Thanks for any advice, direction, references, etc.

-- 
Bob Neidorff; Unitrode I. C. Corp.  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-424-2410
Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-424-3460
From: earl@phred.UUCP (choo choo earl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: plating
Keywords: plating
Date: 5 Jan 93 15:24:26 GMT
Organization: Physio Control Corp., Seattle WA

Hi there.
I need a method of plating a small reflector for a lamp.  The reflector is 
made of brass, and I would like to plate it with silver, tin, or nickel to 
make it "shiny" again.  Most of the electroplating soultions I have read 
about contain cyanide, which I am reluctant to use in my shop.  One method 
I tried was to imerse it in used photographic fixer.  Ion replacement causes 
the brass to become silver plated, but it doesn't cover very well. I checked 
out some of the local plating companies, but their minimum charge makes it 
not worthwhile.  
I've seen these "plating kits" from some places, but the results I've seen 
have not been too good.  Anyway, If you have some good ideas, let me know.  
I may end up with a standard cyanide electroplating bath anyway, but it 
might be fun to try something else.
earl@phred.uucp

-- 
DIG A DUCK DIG A DUCK DIG A GEODUCK DIG A DUCK DIG A GEODUCK DIG A DUCK A DAY
earl@phred      Physio Control Corp.   Redmond Wa   (206)867-4255
I find when I work on the computer too long I have this uncontrolable
urge to eat Twinkies, drink Coke, and wear funny sandals.
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Carbide Grades
Date: 8 Jan 93 17:09:44 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

(our news feed site crashed a disk drive, so this may not have gone
out; let's try it again!)

I note that there are many grades of (tungsten?) carbide cutting tools, such
as C2 for cast iron, and C6 for steel.  I was wondering just what the
difference is in the grades.  Is it the formulation of the carbide itself,
or is it just the degree of finishing of the cutting edge?

For example, if I want to get a set of lathe bits, should I really get
a set of C2 and C6 (say), or will C6 do everything a C2 will do?  There
seems to be little or no price advantage, which makes me think there is
some important fundamental difference between the grades and not just how
long they spent on the grinder.

Jim Kirkpatrick
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Some Interesting Books
Date: 12 Jan 93 15:31:18 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

In article <93011.194143JCEHC@CUNYVM.BITNET>, JCEHC@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
> 
>     Some books I haven't seen mentioned yet are the series written by
> Guy Lautard: "The Machinist's Bedside Reader"  and "The Machinist's
> Second Bedside Reader".  Lautard has also written a number of other
> books target specifically towards the hobby machinest and to a lesser
> extent towards gunsmiths.  He has even written a novel for machinists.
> I bought "Tha Machinist's Bedside Reader" several years ago after
> reading a raving review in "Rifle" magazine.  Recently I ordered the
> sequel.

I have heard of these books, but until now had not heard anything
about them.  I'm glad you are pleased, but it's still not clear
what the books are about.  Are these books (primarily the bedside
readers) that contain projects, or general instructional tips, or
are the bedside readers in fact the novel?

I'd like to include these in the FAQ, but hate to say "everybody should
read them but I don't know what they are"! :-)

Jim
From: arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Thread Tapping Gizzmos
Date: 4 Jan 93 05:25:30 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

I am in the market for a drill press tapping attachment for small
screws up to 1/4 - 20.  The only thing I come up with is a $170
gizzmo and an even more expensive one in the McMaster Carr catalog.  Surly there is something less expensive out there.

I found that a cheapo screwdriver adapter works ok for small threats but
I have wrecked three of them on 1/4 threads in aluminum.

Anyone got any ideas?

js
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oil/Water/Air hardening tool steel
Date: 5 Jan 93 09:11:08 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

In article <C0CzoK.8rE@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, cbl@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (Chris Luchini) writes:
> I'm trying to make a swaging die to expand bullets. 

Have you tried contacting Corbin or RCBS to see if they either have one
the right size in stock, or might make one for you?  I have heard that
RCBS will happily make all sorts of oddball sizing dies, so I wonder if
either company would tackle a swaging die of non-standard size.  The cost
might be a bit more than normal, and of course it kills the do-it-yourself
nature of such a project, but the results might be just what you need.

As for getting the right size after hardening, you'll probably have
to grind it, as few tools can nicely cut hardened steel.  An idea here
might be to mount a Dremel tool on a lathe's compound rest, with a grinding
tool in the chuck.  Use it like a normal cutting tool, but only for very
light "cuts", checking size frequently.  Also, cover as much of the lathe
as you can with plastic sheet, especially the ways, as the griding wheel
dust can cause all manner of long-term problems for the machine.  I have
never actually tried this, so let me know if it works :-).

Also, I'm not sure if you want the die to be fully hardened or just
case-hardened; it sounds like you've already done some research on that.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Brass Casting 
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 15:47:13 GMT

>>>>> On Wed, 6 Jan 1993 22:22:43 GMT, xdepec@chevy.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (preston e chaney jr) said:

preston> I am now wondering if I can cast brass ( at 1700+ deg.) into
preston> a plaster mold.

I have read the other replies, and agree that it would be good to heat
the mold to drive out water and pour while hot.  I would, however,
suggest that you use Cristobalite (sp?) which is used by jeweler's for
lost wax casting.  It is a special type of plaster-like mud which is
designed specifically to be heated very hot an retain its shape and
resist any sort of degradation or explosion.  In lost wax casting, the
wax is burned out in an oven by bringing the mold up to temperature
100 degrees an hour until it is up around 1200.  Then the silver or
gold is heated and poured int.  You probably will not need all that
heat for a belt buckle since it does not need to go down tiny sprues
to fill a mold cavity, but slowly heating up to the limit of your
household oven would not hurt at all.


-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: hard silver brazing stainless steel+brass (Q)
Summary: advice and comments invited
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 20:39:09 GMT


After years of making mobiles out of brass rod and sheet, using hard
silver brazing, I'm starting to use thin stainless steel rod.

My procedure has always been to run boiling water over the join to get the
flux off while it's still hot, then sand or brush to bare metal.

I'm looking for warnings and advice -- will I have more corrosion problems
with stainless+brass? Any  other worries anyone can forewarn me of?
(My work goes outdoors, freestanding or more often hanging, so will weather).

It seems apparent I need a whole separate set of pliers and files -- the
stainless eats'em up fast and gouges them so I won't use'em on soft metal
again.  Are there hand tools strong enough to nip through and file stainless
steel, that anyone can recommend?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Fuels for brazing (was: Firepot on a forge (coal/gas/charcoal))
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 01:44:40 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.220208.18352@sequent.com>
stuartf@sequent.com (Stuart Friedberg) writes:
 
>In article <74160001@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams) writes:
>>I have around for heaters anyway.  I have seen MAPP gas talked about for
>>brazing -- any experience to share??
>
>I use a MAPP/air torch (uses disposable tanks like a propane torch)
>and I judge it acceptable but marginal and inefficient for brazing.
 
..snip...
>
>I'd like very much to hear more about acetylene/air and other
>setups that can heat larger masses for brazing.  Is there
>such a thing as a propane/forced-air or MAPP/forced-air torch?
>
I have MAPP/oxygen.  Fine for brazing up to about 20 gauge tubing
(as in bicycle frame repair).  Terrible on 1/8" stock or anything
heavier.  But it provides a much finer and hotter flame than straight
MAPP.
 
..Richard E+17
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welding aluminmum bellhousing
Date: 7 Jan 1993 22:29:02 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu
Summary: consider soldering, instead

In article <-9yrwrc@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:

>The most complicated part is that Honda is famous for using magnesium and/or
>zinc in their die casting alloy.  The magnesium alloy can be welded
>but a backing shielding gas must be used to prevent combustion.  If 
>zinc is involved, welding is almost impossible.

	I have used some aluminum solders that work just fine with
zinc or other metals; if you don't need high operating
temperatures or great strength, an aluminum solder might be your best
patching material (and it doesn't require any fancy welding
gear, just propane/air and maybe some fluoride-type flux).

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: Re: Propane torch recommendations (silver soldering)
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 93 22:36:06 GMT

>
>I'm switching my little rig to propane-oxygen, and maybe will back down to
>propane-compressed-air when the oxy runs out.
>

MAPP gas is a lot hotter.

-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Chime tube lengths
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 01:21:18 GMT

>
>My conclusion from all of this is that unless you really know your material,
>you can't really get away from having to tune these things by hand.  To
>illustrate, I once spent most of an afternoon going through boxes of bronze
>cowbells, all cast from the same mold.  It was easier to construct second
>and third intervals than it was to find two bells that were in unison.
>
Roy Underhill says this about tuning bottles: "Bottles ring like
bells when you strike them and, true enough, cheap bottles sound
like cheap bells. ... I recommend a Mouton Cadet or any of the '76
Burgundies.  Once you have the bottles you will of course need to
tune them.  The more liquid there is in the bottle, the lower the
tone. ...   If you are starting with full wine bottles, begin with
the lowest note and drink just enough to set it right.  Go to the
next highest and drink down to tune it up.  You should be hearing
beautiful music by the time you finish." (from The Woodwright's
Work Book, 1986, p. 155)
 
I wonder how Norm would approach such a project?
 
..Richard E+17
From: stuartf@sequent.com (Stuart Friedberg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Fuels for brazing (was: Firepot on a forge (coal/gas/charcoal))
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:02:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1993Jan8.220208.18352
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <74160001@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams) writes:
>I have around for heaters anyway.  I have seen MAPP gas talked about for
>brazing -- any experience to share??

I use a MAPP/air torch (uses disposable tanks like a propane torch)
and I judge it acceptable but marginal and inefficient for brazing.
Let me give you some data points:

22 gauge iron wire:
  brazes easily in a small flame, melts rapidly and burns the iron
  if you don't use a little caution.

Socket onto the face of a 1/4" x 3/4" x 7" bar:
  took over 5 minutes in a firebrick "cave" to come up to
  heat.  actual brazing takes less than a minute once at heat.

1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angle iron:
  at the upper limit of practical brazing.  requires 10 - 20 MINUTES
  per joint, in a firebrick "cave" to get things to where the brazing
  rod flows freely.

1/4" sq x 6" onto 2" OD x 6":
  doesn't get hot enough to SOFT solder. (!!!)

I buy a standard brazing rod that flows freely at an orange heat.
No dull red or cherry red produces an adequate joint.  The
*temperature* of the MAPP/air flame is plenty hot enough to braze.
The *heat output* is marginal for any joint involving enough metal
to be called structural.  Simply put, the MAPP/air torch can't pump
heat into a mass of metal much faster than the mass can conduct
the metal away.  That's why a firebrick "cave" can make the difference
between success and failure, reducing the loss of radiated heat.

Therefore, you can't go by the "burns at 2700 degrees" information
on MAPP and Polyprop containers.  It's true, but it's not the
only thing that's important.

I'd like very much to hear more about acetylene/air and other
setups that can heat larger masses for brazing.  Is there
such a thing as a propane/forced-air or MAPP/forced-air torch?

Stu Friedberg (stuartf@sequent.com)

ps: I haven't forgotten the rest of the mail order postings.  Give me time. :-)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re: Sigh.  What have I done now? (Re: Questi
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:51:21 GMT

In article 145003@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV, gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
>In article <1993Jan04.184704.3772@i88.isc.com>, jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>> [ stuff deleted ... ]
>
>No, you didn't.  If you want to call yourself a craftsman, that's ok by
>me.  However, if you want to call us all craftsman, that's not ok.  And
>

Before going further, let me state clearly, that I am in no way implying that
Mr. Preckshot is a crafstman ... :-)

>
>Please don't regard this as an insult, but if you call yourself a craftsman,
>you are saying that you have "manual skills but no higher competence."  If
>this doesn't suit you, then maybe you are now more than a craftsman. 
>
> [ more stuff deleted ... ]
>
> ...  A craftsman learns his craft by rote and most never advance
>even beyond journeyman.  The exceptional ones become something more, but
>that hardly changes the meaning of the word.

Gary,  I'm not sure I agree with your definition.  I'll grant you that something
that qualifies as a "craft" involves a certain amount of manual technique, which
must be practised and perfected, usually through repetition.  I'll also grant that
to earn the "title" craftsman, one need do little more than aquire the level of
skill, knowledge, and ability typically associated with the term.  What I don't
agree with is the idea that the term in any way limits a person's level of
experience, nor the idea that any other title automatically assumes that
craftsmanship has been attained, and therefore denotes a higher level of
knowledge and skill.  There are scientists and engineers who *know* much more about
metal and metal working than a craftsman, but do not posses the skills needed to
be a craftsman, just as many craftsmen do not posses their level of knowledge.  If
such a scientist or engineer were to develop the skill of a craftsman, it would be
entirely appropriate to describe him as such in reference to those skills.
Historically, it may be true that (at least in European society) those who became
craftsmen typically pursued their education no further, and that engineers were
often first given a chance to develop a craftsman's skills, as background before
studying further to earn their distictive degrees, thus resulting in the notion
that an engineer was a craftsman and more - but that is rarely true today, at
least for most engineers.

In any event, time will only tell, but I would bet a dollar that the volume of
traffic found in this group will, in the long run, be devoted more to the craft
of metal working, than to the science of metalurgy or some branch of engineering.

>
> [ more stuff deleted ... ]
>
>Now come on!  I haven't flaming you nor am I trying to flame you ...
>
> [ rest deleted ]

Me neither!  Just another point of view!

Walt
From: cyberman@exucom.com (Stephen R. Phillips)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Copper plating
Date: 4 Jan 93 00:18:43 GMT
Organization: ExuCom Multimedia Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]


I was attempting to copper plate soft soldered material with copper
using copper sulfate a copper anode and a the object as the cathode.

The result was a black sooty substance instead of Cu!  

1:	I was using electronics solder 60/40 (or is it 40/60?)
2:	I used tap water to mix the CuSo4 solution.  
3:	I am using a variable current at 30 volts.
4:	I have no clue to EXACTLY what I'm doing.

HELP!

Cyberman
-- 
This is my sig file!
Read rec.games.programer!
From: vporguen@unlinfo.unl.edu (victor porguen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Propane torch recommendations (silver soldering)
Date: 6 Jan 1993 03:49:19 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo.unl.edu

jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:

> I recommend you hit the local pawn shops and see if anybody has a plumber's
>torch outfit - a small acetylene bottle, a gauge and torch. I got one for 
>$60 and that wasn't a fabulous deal. No O2, just acetylene/air, but hot 
>enough for brazing, silver soldering, etc. and quite a bit hotter than 
>propane/air.
>-- 

I second that. Those small acetylene/air torches are superb, 
inexpensive and quite controllable. The acetylene tanks are
refillable. Originally, they are intended for sweat-soldering
copper tubing such as used in bulding water pipes, etc., because
copper conducts heat away so well that other torches never get
to heat the pipe up sufficiently. 

I've used those torches for brazing steel with conventional
bronze rods. They would be more than enough for silver soldering,
and the flame can be regulated quite well.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ndmead%gr.cs.utah.edu@cs.utah.edu (Nathan Mead)
Subject: Re: Propane torch recommendations (silver soldering)
Date: 6 Jan 93 14:28:47 MST
Organization: University of Utah
Distribution: usa

In article <1icqdaINNdrj@tamsun.tamu.edu>, markf@cs.tamu.edu (Mark A Fleming) writes:
|>      I'd like to get into silver soldering in a bigger way, so I'm looking to
|> replace the little bottle torch I've been using.  In a back section of Kozo
|> Hiraoka's "Building the Shay" is a picture of the torch he uses.  It has a
|> range of tip sizes and uses a standard 20lb LP tank for fuel.  I'd like
|> something that can put out a fair amount of heat, since I'll be building
|> boilers for two 1/2" scale locos in the near future.  Any suggestions as to
|> torch brand or supplier?

I have a "Victor Turbo Torch" that I am very happy with and have used primarly for silver soldering of copper pipe ( I gave up lead soldering of copper pipe long ago).  It has a quick connect built in the handle that allows very rapid switching of tips and a on/off valve in the handle that can be locked.  Any single-stage pressure regulator works fine as the pressure drop in both LP and acetylene bottles is typicaly very slow and fuel pressure is not that critical. The LP tips I have used throw a flame tha


t is shorter and "fatter" than the typical air-acetylene torches and Victor claims their tips are hotter that the competition.  All these features are very desirable for plumbing applications where you are constantly restarting the torch and working close to wood which is prefered left un-combusted.  The locking fule valve is very nice when dragging the torch around under a house. The "fatter" flame also seems easer to spread the heat with. The disadvantages with the Victor torch are that they are a little


 pricey ( tips around $50 and handle $70 last time I checked) and the flame size can only be adjusted by changing the regulator pressure at the fuel bottle.  I have not found the restriction on flame size adjustment to be a problem and really like the flame shape.  Check it out, in my area Victor is carried in most of the welding supply stores and hotter air-acetylene tips for the same handle are avaliable for future needs.

Nathan Mead
Center for Engineering Design
University of Utah


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com>
Subject: Re: Al and Steel : some questions
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:13:43 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink-DOS (3.3)

In the Thomas Register there are many companies listed that make 
foil-steel  that might serve your purpose.


Gary
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking