From: dpeders1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Daniel Pedersen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Bike Painting??
Date: 21 May 92 17:35:40 GMT
Reply-To: dpeders1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Daniel Pedersen)
Distribution: na
Organization: Swarthmore College

ccoprbm@prism.gatech.EDU (bruce mccullough) writes:
> I have a bike
> and would like to paint it yellow.
> If you have done this project or know how then e-mail me and help me out
> with this. I want to do this on my own and not take it any where( kinda
> a personal thing, even though I have the money). I thought it would help me
> to learn more about bicycles and the sport in general. Dave have you got any
> thoughts on this? Thanks!

In order to repair some rust spots on our car, i went to the car paint
supply store, and they sold me a disposable airbrush thingy.  It's a glass
jar with a screw top which attaches to a charged spray cannister (that's the
best description you'll get out of me).  You pour the paint into the
glass jar, hook on the sprayer and spray the paint onto the
car/bike/whatever.  cheaper than buying an entire airbrush setup.  It has a
limited number of charges though.  Check at your local auto paints supply
store.

-->Daniel Pedersen  -  Keren's Daddy		(215)543-8961
	dpeders1@cc.swarthmore.edu	pedersen@engin.swarthmore.edu
======================================================================
Highway sign on I-10, AZ: "Federal Prison - Do Not Pick Up Hitch-Hikers"
	50 yards later: "Campground	Next Right"
"Why do you kill people?"   -   "I am a terminator."  [Terminator 2]




In article <1991Apr1.002603.12556@oakhill.sps.mot.com>
joeh@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Joe Hollinger) writes: 
>
>
>Okay, I'll bet this question has been asked before, but ...
>
>What is the deal with painting aluminum frames, specifically
>Cannondales? Has anyone done this? What are the procedures for
>stripping, priming, painting? Are there any good references for this?
>Thanks. 

I learned to paint airplanes in the Navy and quickly applied this
knowledge to bicycling.  I don't know of any references, but the guys
at your local auto parts store might be helpful.  A good paint job is 
rather complex and requires a lot of tools that the average person 
doesn't have.  But if you have a compressor and a clean place to paint,
then you might give it a try.  Also check state regulations,  In some
states painting in anyplace other than a licensed booth is illegal.
first strip with a good aircraft type stripper, zip strip will not
remove polyurethane factory coats very well.  I use PPG Aircraft
stripper.  An aluminum frame will then have to chemically treated with
Alodine !! IF YOU SKIP THIS STEP THE PAINT WILL FALL OFF IN A WEEK !!
if you don't believe me, TRY IT!!!   After this apply a coat or two 
of primer.  Then apply the color coat.  Next come the decorative colors.
Then a few coats of clear.  If you have stickers that are compatible with
your paint system ( won't peel or melt ) then they can be applied UNDER
the clear coat for a really smooth look.  
That's about it.  A good gun to use for bicycles is a Binks 115.
I use all PPG Deltron products.  This is a polurethane paint.  I don't 
reccomend laquer because it is not durable and fades quickly.  All of
the above products are considered hazardous material and should be disposed 
of properly.  Also they are EXTREMELY dangerous, A respirator should
be worn at all times.  DO NOT use a particle filter mask.

Also polyurethane paint cures because of a chemical reaction with 
the catalyst.  It does not need to baked.  This accelerates the 
drying, but does not make it any better.

For steel a different metal prep is used, but the rest is the same.

Neons and other fancy colors may require a basecoat and multiple
applications of color coat.

DuPont is OK paint too, but I don't care for their enviromental 
attitude, so I don't use it!!

Painting is fairly complicated and can be dangerous, so I don't reccomend
it unless you have the proper equipment and training.

Any question??  give me a holler.

.sig

Article: 20336 of rec.bicycles
From: android@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Andy Wilks)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: How to prep frame for new paint job (exhaustive)
Summary: How to paint a bike in 10 easy(?) steps
Date: 9 Apr 91 23:16:17 GMT
Reply-To: android@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Andy Wilks)

In article <4863@dirac.physics.purdue.edu>
war@maxwell.physics.purdue.edu (Warren D. Murphy) writes: 
>In article <10835@uwm.edu>, zark@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Steven M Kosloske)
writes: 

>> I have an old (6 years old) Raleigh bike frame I would like to
>>strip and put together a new paint job on.  The bike has a few decals
>>on it, which will have to come off with the paint.  My question is,
>>what is the best/easiest way to get the frame prep'd for painting?  I
>>believe that it has to be stripped to bare metal to paint, correct?
>>Would having it dipped somewhere to have it stripped all at once be a
>>good idea?  
>> 
>>Steve Kosloske

>Well, you might get good success with having the frame dipped, but
>I'm  not sure that the solution would take the decals off.  This might
>lead the  shop you're having do the job to charge you extra.
>Sandblasting has always  worked well for me, just be sure that a fine
>grade of sand is used.   
>     But, here's a summary of the general procedure.
>
>1.  strip the frame of ALL components.  This includes chainstay guards and 
>	all the headset races 
>2.  degrease the frame thoroughly.  Get every nook & cranny using a
>       toothbrush 
>
>3.  sandblast the frame completely.  A trick that helps this is to 
>       rough the surface with coarse sandpaper.  This will give the
>       sand a start on  removing the paint, and tears the decals up a
>       bit which helps the  sand immensely in removing them.
>
>4.  degrease the frame again.  
>
>5.  Have the alignment checked and the frame re-aligned if necessary.
>
>6.  if you had number 5 done, degrease the frame again.  This should
>       be the final degreasing, so if you didn't have #5 done, do
>       this for #4.  Use denatured alcohol as your last cleaning
>       solution, then use the recommended thinner for the paint
>       you'll be spraying as a final prep solution.  Use a lint-free
>       cloth for this, and do it in the area you'll be spraying in. 
>
>7.  now you're ready to spray.  I would strongly recommend that you
>       get some pipes, tubes, or anything cylindrical to practice on
>       before you try  to spray your frame.
>
>     As far as the painting itself goes, I posted on this a little
>while ago, so it should still be easily accessible.  Clear coat is,
>IMNSHO, an option.  It protects paint and decals, but makes touch-up
>work harder.   
>

The above is fairly good advice but goes a little overboard on the
degreasing!! 

You might find the following more practical:

1:  As above, take the bike completely apart.

2:  Apply a good quality aircraft grade stripper such as Klean Strip (PPG)
    don't worry about the stickers, they'll start to peel at the edges and 
    will scrape right off.  ( USE CAREFULLY - VERY STRONG STUFF )  You might
    have to do this twice.  Don't use OLD stripper, a chemical reaction can
    cause hydrogen embritlement in certain grades of steel.  Rinse well with
    water to remove strippr.  Lightly brush away any remaining paint flakes
    around lugs or fittings with a brass bristle brush.  OR GLASS bead blast
    away the remaining paint.  ( there won't be much. )  Sand blasting is 
    pretty harsh for road grade lightweight tubing.  (IMHO!!)

3:  Now is the time to get that alignment or new braze-ons!!

4:  This step is VERY IMPORTANT so pay attention.  If it isa steel frame
    use Metalprep(DX-579) to chemically prepare the surface for primer.
    If it is aluminum then use Alumiprep(DX-533) or Alodine to prep the
    bare metal.  If you skip this step on steel, well, you will get a 
    mediocre adhesion ( will chip easily ) if you skip this step on
    aluminum watch out!!  Paint will chip and flake away in weeks.  (
    No, I didn't  try it,  But we saw samples in Paint and Final
    Finish School in the Navy ) 

5:  Now you can degrease!! Use something like 'Acryli-Clean'(DX-330)
    wax and grease remover.  Alchohol is OK, but it will not dissolve
    some types of grease very well.

6:  Now it's time to prime.  I use DP-40 Epoxy Primer.  Light Gray or
    grey-green works best.  You can use a sealer over this but this is
    not %100 necessary.  

7:  Apply the topcoat.  I use and reccomend Deltron Acrylic Polyurethane.
    Acrylic lacquer is OK but not as durable unless clearcoated with a 
    Urethane.  A good gun for painting bikes is a Binks 115.  It is an
    auto touch-up gun and is nice and small.  

8:  Apply the clearcoat.  This is require for some finishes and not for
    others.  Most fancy stuff (pearls, neons, candy, etc...) require this.
    Plain colors do not, but it will enhance the appearance (assuming
    you've done a GREAT job thus far) and make the difference between
    a good looking bike and a GREAT looking bike.  If decal are being
    replaced they can (* sometimes *) be put on before the clear
    coats.  This is very nice, because you can build it up to where
    they are smooth to the touch.  

   You will have to experiment on spare tubes with spare decals to check.
   Don't try w/o doing this as some decals will wrinkle melt or dissolve!!

9:  Let dry for 72 hrs.  Polyurethane cures by a chemical reaction so 
    baking is not neccesary.  It only speeds up the reaction and does
    not add to durability.  

10:  Put it back together and ride all around town so all of your friends
     can say "WOW! is that a new Topolini??"


************************* SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ***************************

ALL material used for painting are poisonous and hazardous.  ALWAYS wear
a respirator (NOT a dust mask) with an organic vapors catridge.  NIOSH
approved.  A forced air system is a must for painting cars but A touch-up
gun does not create as much overspray, o a respirator is PROBABLY OK.
Wear your respirator at all times while stripping, prepping, mixing and 
painting.  When you are done painting, don't remove your mask and gawk
at the lovely job you have done.  Come bak later.  The solvents are 
evaporating and the air is very toxic right now!!

TRY VERY hard to find someone to let you paint in their booth.  This is 
best for the enviroment :-) and will also keep away dust and float stuff.

Follow all of the instructions on the cans.  Waiting times for second coats
and topcoats ARE important for a quality finish.  

Follow all of the rest of the safety precautions on the cans and in the 
FREE literature the friendly(?) gentlemen at the auto-parts store will
give you.  They will also help you select the right clear coats etc... 
that you need to do the job right.

If you *don't* follow the instructions and die, don't send me e-mail
complaining or flaming...  (Ladies and Gentlemen, these are trained 
professionals, don't attempt this at home!!!  (Unless you've really
got a good idea you can handle it SAFELY.)

Good Luck,

Andy Wilks android@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Article 39045 of rec.bicycles:
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles