HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jwilson@chopin.udel.edu (James Wilson)
Subject: Re: Books!
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 04:46:31 GMT


If I had to pick just one iris book, it would be this one:
_The World of Irises_, edited by Bee Warburton, asst. ed. Melba Hamblen,
published by The American Iris Society, 1978, 519 pages, 32 color
plates, 219 b/w photos, 46 illustrations, ISBN 0-9601242-1-7 
Does indeed cover the world (up to 1978), well-researched, good sections 
on bearded iris development. about $15

Another good one is _IRIS_, by Fritz Ko"hlein, Timber Press, 1987,
370 pages, 210 color photos, 48 line drawings, ISBN 0-88192-049-5.
Somewhat more European perspective and discusses and pictures some
species and varieties that are less commonly grown here. about $35

_The Louisiana Iris_, edited by Marie Caillet and Joseph K.
Mertzweiller, pub. by the Society for Louisiana Irises, 1988,
233 pages, 93 color photos, 23 b/w photos, 16 illus., ISBN
0-914641-09-3.  Beautiful and well-done book on the topic, maybe
the best of the iris specialty books. about $23

_The Japanese Iris_, edited by Currier McEwen for The Society for
Japanese Irises, 1990, similar and also very good. about $25

_Siberian Irises_, edited by Currier McEwen for The Society for 
Siberian Irises, 1981, 74 pages, 9 color plates, is softback and more
a handbook than a book, but good as that. about $7

All of these and more (some aimed at beginners, some more toward
botanical illustration and photography) are sold by a place called
Ibis Books, 13235 Hwy 234, Gold Hill, OR 97525 (503) 855-1480, or
at least they were a year ago.  Their brochure lists lots of other
specialized horticultural books that I haven't seen elsewhere.

Most can also be obtained through the American Iris Society, which
also publishes series of checklists, updated from time to time.  These
are a reference to the many registered varieties.
-- 

Jim Wilson                             jwilson@brahms.udel.edu
Instructional Technology Center	       (302) 831-1291
University of Delaware                 Newark, Delaware   19716
From: bryant@neural.Kodak.COM (Steve Bryant)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Wanted - The Perfect Tree
Date: 14 Oct 92 11:53:03 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

I have a spot for a tree in my back yard and I want the perfect
tree to put there. The tree has to have most(if not all) of the 
following characteristics:
   
   * Flowers other than white in spring.
   * Interesting Fall colors, red or yellow.
   * Mature height less than 40 ft.
   * Interesting  bark/structure for winter viewing.
   * Hardy in Zone 6 ( a must).
   * Quick growing desirable.
   * Something interesting to look at for every season.

I'd like to here from some of you on what trees you think
come close to my perfect tree and what are your criteria
for the perfect tree.
From: mturner@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Mark Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Help wanted - Ways to kill blackberries
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:20:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: henson.1992Oct15.202051.16490
Organization: Western Washington University

jacobson@ogicse.ogi.edu (Chris Jacobson) writes:

 >I'm a proud owner of nearly 1/2 an acre of blackberries on a
 >occasionally steep lot. The lot doesn't have suitable access
 >for a cat so I'm thinking of an initial chemical attack followed
 >by much brush chipping.  I've heard that better chemicals than
 >round-up exist for berry vines.  Anyone know more on this?
 >Do the vines go through chipper/shredders OK?

We have successfully used Ortho "Brush Killer" painted directly on the
stems of the nasty brambles.  Cut them off near the ground and use an old
paintbrush to apply the stuff.  With a half acre, it could get tedious,
but you should only have to do it once.

Regarding shredding, blackberries go through our aging Monkey Wards gas
shredder just fine.  Just wear heavy gloves and watch out for flailing
branches thrashing around to hit you in the upper body :)

 >I have also been told that fall is a particularly good time to
 >apply chemicals as the "nutrients are being moved to the roots"...
 >any confirmation?

Don't know on this one.

-- Mark Turner
mturner@henson.cc.wwu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gwv@helium.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Subject: Re: Forcing oak acorns to germinate
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 9 Oct 92 15:40:08 CDT

My previous text about some plants requiring refrigerator
temperatures for stratification/dormancy is correct but probably
not relevant to the acorn problem.  Mr Heim reported in his text
that acorns which had NOT been chilled germinated and I missed
that in my response.  Several other correspondents  in this
group have also reported success with germinating newly fallen acorns
immediately.   I apologise for a response which was off target.
From: emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hyperaccumulators?
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:29:15 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<1992Oct6.205925.7361@iscsvax.uni.edu>
Reply-To: emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: na
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH
Keywords: 

In article <1992Oct6.205925.7361@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
writes:
>In article <1992Oct6.231520.20515@cs.rochester.edu>, dietz@cs.rochester.edu
(Paul Dietz) writes:
>> 
>> I just was reading a bit about some plants that are
>> "hyperaccumulators": they concentrate normally toxic metals in their
>> tissue to an amazing extent (for example, plants that grow on soils
>> derived from ultramafic rocks that concentrate nickel in their leaves
>> to > 3% of their dry weight).  Are there any plants normally grown in
>> gardens that are hyperaccumulators?
>
>To the best of my knowledge, no.  Though you will see such things as
>lead accumulating in root crops like carrots.
>
        [etc]



        I read something about Jimsonweed.

        About a month ago, in the Wall Street Journal, page 1

        Apparently, it hyperaccumulates toxic nuclear (now THAT's
        redundant) wastes...and thrives!!!!


        Elizabeth
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dgg@llcn2.jhuapl.edu (Dave Gawron)
Subject: Re: Magnetically Treated Water
Organization: Johns Hopkins University
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 92 17:55:45 GMT

In <Bvv40G.9H3@andy.bgsu.edu> graue@andy.bgsu.edu (Louis Graue) writes:

>If you'd like to grow brilliant blossoms; vibrant foliage; plus, green lawns;
>luscious fruit, put magnets on your pipes.  Magnetic fields separate water
>molecules, reducing surface tension and suspending minerals allowing water 
>to flow freely.  The water penetrates more effectively, and reaches roots 
>more quickly; evaporation is minimized.

>I read this in a suppliment to my local newspaper and just wondered if any
>of you in netland had any experience with this.

Biomagnetics.  I once had an article about biomagnetics which described the
effect of magnetism on plants and their water.  Sent out for additional info
and received a bunch of stuff and an order form for obtaining books on
Biomagnetics.  I think the places was called the "Albert Davis Lab", and the
address was somewhere in Florida.  That's the limit of my experience and
memory.

-Dave-
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Custard Apple-Annona cherimolia
Date: 15 Oct 92 18:04:51 GMT
Organization: noitazinagrO

In article <10292288.10889.14161@kcbbs.gen.nz> 
Pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) writes:
>I have just been given a lovely ripe custard apple by a friend who has 
>another friend that has a tree of them. I didn't realise they were able 
>to be grown in New Zealand (Auckland) and am thrilled to find they are. 

Hmm, are they? I'm assuming you have A.cherimoya which is a SubTropical small
tree that probably grows to perfection in San Diego County, California. Summers
should be in the 70's oF and some winter chill, ~50 hours at 45-32oF, is 
required. They only take 29, 28 oF or so and usually require hand pollination
to set fruit. There are different Annonas for the lowland tropics. There is
a member of this family from the temperate central US, the paw paw or
Indiana banana, Asimina trilobata or something like that. If you can get Ortho's
Guide to Citrus and SubTropicals, it's one of their better products.

>I have kept the large seeds and was wondering if anyone knows if they 
>can be grown from seed?

Sure, why not?

>If so, will it come true to type

Unlikely, but there is not a lot of genetic variability, so result will
probably be acceptable. It's cheaper to grow from seed, if winter survival is
an issue, you can select for that trait fairly easily.

>or will it 
>need to be grafted onto rootstock and if so what sort of stock?

If you don't like the fruit a seedling produces but the plant survives the
climate well, you can graft the top over to a better selection. In the 
distant past in the US, it was common practice to start an apple orchard from
seed and to graft the better selections onto the rootstocks of the ones that
didn't produce good fruit, that's a cheap way to select for fruit that matches
your local climate and soil, but does take a while.

>If it 
>doesn't grow true to type is it worth trying to grow anyway, whether 
>I get fruit or not? Please answer in this newsgroup but it you MUST 
>email me please don't quote!

Sure, it's always worth trying. With a seed, the investment is very low and
who knows, you may discover Dawn's Pippen Cherimoya.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Chimeric hyacinths?
Date: 12 Oct 92 18:10:28 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <Bw0s1D.2Lr@inews.Intel.COM>, pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey) writes:
> In article <1992Oct6.211803.7364@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>>Someplace over the weekend I *think* I read about cutting two hyacinth
>>bulbs in half (say an incipient pink and a blue flowered bulb each) and 
>>then swapping halves and binding the two halves together.  This was 
>>supposed to produce a chimeric inflorescence.   Any one try this?  Or
>>should I just be asking my department head for a _long vacation_ to
>>recuperate from my fever????
> 
> Is that a true chimera or is that just a graft? Chimera means that genetic
> material is transmitted across the graft, right? It's just one of the many
> things that can foul up grafts. You think you are cloning, but you're not.
> I'll have to try it out, seems like a simple experiment. Get two bulbs of
> near identical size and make a clean cut with a very sharp knife and match
> up the graft and bind with rubber bands. Hmm, then there are the variables,
> like pre or post chill.

Since the stuff I read that weekend was with a 105oF temp, I'm really
not sure _if_ I read it, let alone exact contents.  However, the 
description I _think_ I remember sounded like a graft chimera, with 
partial migration of cells across the wound.

Anyhow, thought I'd wait till the hyacinths went on sale, then do a bit
of experimenting.

Kay
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:7273 misc.consumers.house:13290
From: vo@microunity.com (Tom Vo)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Seeking recommendation for a landscaper
Date: 8 Oct 92 22:01:40 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: MicroUnity Systems Engineering, Inc.


My wife has been reminding me that the jungle we're been calling our backyard
is well into its 2nd year of existence since we bought the place .  So I'm here
asking you to recommend a landscaper/gardener/handyman to :

	* Put in a new border and ~ 700 sq ft of lawn
	* Add a few steps of stair to our existing deck .

We pretty much know what we want to do so most of the work is doing it .
We would prefer someone who has already done this kind of work for before and
can show us some of his/her previous work .

Thanks in advance .

I live in South Fremont  if that matters .


--
     Tom Vo       vo@microunity.com       (408) 734-8100
Newsgroups:  rec.gardens
From: jessup@dot.cs.colorado.edu (Elizabeth Jessup)
Subject: Brown Blue Spruce
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 19:34:10 GMT

In my backyard, I have a beautiful Colorado blue spruce.  It's
about 30 feet tall.  I noticed recently that the ends (outer most
6 inches or so) of many of the branches have turned brown and dry.  
Is this normal?  (I just moved in to the house last April, and the
tree's been its regular blue all over until now.)

Thanks for your help.
Liz
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Wanted - The Perfect Tree
Date: 14 Oct 92 23:25:43 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

bryant@neural.Kodak.COM (Steve Bryant) writes:
about his specimen tree criteria:
>    * Quick growing desirable.

Um, well, I'd think twice on that one, since fast growth is correlated
with weak wood.  But then, I live in an area with lots of wind and 
ice damage, so maybe I'm overly sensitive to that.

Kay
From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: help my poor redbuds
Date: 16 Oct 92 13:28:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: ucunix.Bw7uqz.CL5
Organization: University of Cincinnati


>klier@iscsvax.uni.edu responded to me:
>
>>> Are your neighbor's trees under a streetlight and yours not?  If so,
>>> you've got your answer.
>
>no such luck.  neighbors on both sides of us and 2 across the street
>all have redbuds and mine are the only ones turning yellow and none
>of us have a streetlight nearby.  would an iron supplement be the
>right direction to head in?  i know that was what my local plant dude
>suggested when my pine was turning brown.
>

I think, what Kay has been suggesting is that micro climates/environments
can cause big differences, even with a few feet.  For example, if you
have a N/S house and a wind out of the SW, the wind speed @ the SE
corner  will be faster than the wind while 3 or 4 feet north of the corner
it will be less.  The same can be said for such things as soil type,
moisture, depth, etc., etc., etc.,........  It is the various combinations
of such factors that make gardening a headache or a challange.

In my case, my neighbors' redbubs are all yellow but they get full sun,
mine is between two tall houses under a black walnut and is green.
When enough of the walnuts leaves have gone it will get enough light
to turn it yellow (about 3or 4 days now).

PS our ~2 week old fall color has been very brillant so far this
year (tonite we first freeze).


+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|  peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu      	 In real life: John M. Peterson  |
|                                                                        |
|  College of Design Architecture Art & Planning                         |
|  University of Cincinnati           45221-0016           513-556-1207  |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Intensive Urban Garden
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:24:22 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <1ajmaeINNnk5@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano) writes:
> 
>    I am doing a writing project on intensive gardening for 
>  food production only, organic methods.
>  I am wondering if there is a club or association which
>  focusses on backyard food production methods.

During the 70's, a group called "Ecology Action" did a lot of
research, and there was a book called "How to Grow More Vegetables
Than You Thought Possible on Less Land Than You Can Imagine" or
something like that, by John Jeavons. I think the book is still
available. I don't know if the group is still around, they used
to be on El Camino Real in Palo Alto or Menlo Park, CA.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking
From: Pat.Churchill@bbs.actrix.gen.nz
Subject: Re: how to store dried tomatoes
Organization: Actrix Information Exchange
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 04:37:10 GMT

In article <1992Oct15.113945.18202@rchland.ibm.com> smithlm@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Lisa Smith) writes:
> After reading all the posts about sun-dried tomatoes, I decided to try it myself.  I know people said to store them in the fridge, but how long will they keep there?  If I don't plan on using some for several months, will they last, or should I freeze them or something?  Also, I saw several posts in which people covered the tomatoes with oil and herbs to store them--is this really necessary?  I'd rather not do this unless I have to.  (I think of how much oil I'd have to use to cover them, and I feel my v




ei
> 
> 
> 
> ns clogging up!)
> 
> Thanks for any hints!
> 
> Lisa

The commercially sun-dried tomatoes I have are a softish, slightly
chewy consistency - a bit like dried apricots.  I keep them in a
sealed jar on a door-shelf in my refrigerator.  Hasve done so for
several months.  There has been no deterioration at all.

-- 
| The floggings will continue until morale improves
| Pat.Churchill@bbs.actrix.gen.nz (Pat Churchill, Wellington, New Zealand)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: dmiles@carson.u.washington.edu (David Miles)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Apple tree question
Date: 16 Oct 92 23:37:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Oct16.233758.8423
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Washington

It's worthwhile to do a little research on what apple trees are best for your
area and what you want them for.  Your state extension agent, a garden book for
your area, neighbors with good trees are good places to check.  I'm in Seattle
and about 10 years ago I picked Tydeman's Red and am happy with it.  It's
strictly for eating, comes off the tree very sweet, then loses sweetness and
crispness.  I actually like having "worms" in the apples because the apples
with worms ripen sooner.  Since some apples don't have worms I get to pick
over a longer period of time.

David Miles  dmiles@u.washington.edu  (in Seattle)
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Chimeric hyacinths?
Date: 12 Oct 92 17:46:24 GMT
Organization: noitazinagrO

In article <1992Oct6.211803.7364@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>Someplace over the weekend I *think* I read about cutting two hyacinth
>bulbs in half (say an incipient pink and a blue flowered bulb each) and 
>then swapping halves and binding the two halves together.  This was 
>supposed to produce a chimeric inflorescence.   Any one try this?  Or
>should I just be asking my department head for a _long vacation_ to
>recuperate from my fever????

Is that a true chimera or is that just a graft? Chimera means that genetic
material is transmitted across the graft, right? It's just one of the many
things that can foul up grafts. You think you are cloning, but you're not.
I'll have to try it out, seems like a simple experiment. Get two bulbs of
near identical size and make a clean cut with a very sharp knife and match
up the graft and bind with rubber bands. Hmm, then there are the variables,
like pre or post chill.
From: newton@convex.com (Vicki Newton)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: help my poor redbuds
Date: 13 Oct 92 18:15:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.1992Oct13.181534.16329
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

i have three beautiful redbuds sitting out in front of my house.
i eagerly anticipate every spring when i know i'll see them in
all their glory.  anyway, right now their leaves are turning all
golden.  not falling off, just turning golden.  the redbuds my
neighbors all have (we have quite a street come april) still have
green leaves.  something is definitely up with mine.  could it be
an iron problem?  anything else?  i need to get these guys healthy
again!!!

thanks,
veek
From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Sick Radermachera
Date: 8 Oct 92 11:27:04 GMT
Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand

In article <1686B9F51.M21208@mwvm.mitre.org> M21208@mwvm.mitre.org writes:
>I've got a radermachera in my office which used to be doing just great.  Over
>the last couple of months, the leaves have been turning yellow and branches
>have been dropping off starting at the bottom of the plant.  Anybody have any
>ideas on what I'm doing wrong?  (I had it for six months before this started
>happening, so I don't *think* I've got the watering wrong, but maybe...)

  Here's a couple of thoughts - perhaps the change of season means less light
  therefore the tree'll tend to get spindly.  
  Plan B - they're trees - perhaps it's trying to achieve maximum size =:).

  Try pinching out the growing tips to encourage bushiness.  How tall is this
  sucker already?  I've seen 'em about 2-3 metres tall.  With a bit of care
  you could have a really racey, elegant tree.  

  PS - you could learn to love standard trees - Ficus benj (weeping figs)
  make neato standard trees.

--                                                . 
                                   ,' ,,'',''',,  )\   '',' ',,,''   ,,  
 ............................................,,,,/,,\,          ,     
 great whites need loving too!      '',,,''  , ' '  ',,,''  , ' '
 lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz    lynx@amigans.gen.nz
From: heim@vms.macc.wisc.edu (JOHN HEIM	)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Forcing oak acorns to germinate
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:27:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: macc.1992Oct9.184257.2154
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

In article <1992Oct9.171912.7165@bradley.bradley.edu>, larry@bradley.bradley.edu (L. D. Stratton) writes...

>   It is best to 'winterize' your acorns first.  You can accomplish this
>   quite easily by putting the acorns in a baggie tightly sealed and
>   pop it in the freezer for 6-8 weeks.  Then pull them out and plant
>   them, still frozen, in rich loam and about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) deep.
>   Set this in a cool but sunny location, water just to keep the soil
>   moist but not wet.  You should see growth in about 4 weeks.

Does this work?  Have you tried it, personally?  I'm just curious 
because I've been trying to get a oak tree to grow in my yard for 
about 1 year.  Last year I got a bunch of acorns, split 'em up, and 
tried different things with each group.

I put 10-15 acorns in the freezer in a tupperware container.  Planted some 
about 2 months later, some about 3 months later.  Not one sprouted.  

Some I planted immediately at various depths (1 inch to right on the 
surface of the dirt) in a container in my basement.  About 1/2 of them 
sprouted.  I managed to keep them alive in my living room for about 3 
months but they died before spring came.  The leaves turned brown 
starting at the edges.

Another group of acorns I stored in the basement for about 3 months.  
I got about 10% germination from those.  These began to show the same 
symptoms as the ones that I'd lost earlier so I put them outside - 
probably too early - and they died too.

I'd try again this year but I haven't been able to find any acorns 
yet.  

PS. The family priest says the way to start them outdoors is to press 
them into the surface of the ground and cover them with a tin can with 
a hole punched in the top.  I haven't tried this.  (Yep, that's right. 
I don't believe advice given to me by the family priest. :-)  )

JGH