HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4? (rounding it afterwards)
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:39:06 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre

In article <1992Oct6.022902.6699@u.washington.edu>, whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
|> 
|> 	I think the consensus is to laminate; I should add that 
|> making a half-round arch is achieved with applied force ONLY at
|> the ends (other clamp points should have no applied stress, or
|> the curve will be noncircular).  Some kind of rope clamp,
|> with spacers that get replaced one-at-a-time with new boards, will
|> do the trick.
|> 

I'm not sure I understand what you propose to do, but recalling my undergrad classes in mechanics of
material, you can't produce a circular arc by applying forces at both ends. Actually I think your 
suggestion is to apply a "pure bending moment" (sorry for the jargon), which would produce
something close to a third-order curve. I think the only way to obtain a perfect circular shape is to use
a jig.

BTW, to bend a 4" round beam with a modulus of elasticity of 1Mpsi (that seems to be a good estimate
for green SOFTWOOD) by supporting it at both ends and applying a force in the middle (three-point
bending), you need a load that is close to 9 TONS. Laminating really seems the way to go.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: saksa@col.hp.com (Tom Saksa)
Subject: Re: Dangers of sawdust + electric heat.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 23:32:35 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <5598@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com>
simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
  
>I'm going to add some electric heat to my shop soon and I was wondering if
>anyone has heard of any dangers of using forced air electric heaters in an
>environment with sawdust. These heaters have heating coils that glow red when
>in use and I'm worried about sucking airborne dust over those coils.

A friend of mine had one in his shop for a while.  I don't know
about safety, but the thing always smelled like something was
burning inside it.  It may have been a bad unit, but I think that
the sawdust that was blown into the element was causing the smell.
I found it quite annoying and had concerns about safety, so I never
tried one myself.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Subject: Re: Makita TableSaw
Reply-To: thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:33:17 GMT


Regarding a question about a folding table for the Makita 8.25...

I have the one marketed by Makita, though there are no visible diferences
between this and the one marketed under the name Rousseau.  They both
run about $200.  I got mine from Tar Heel Filing because it was local, 
but I assume you can get them from other sources.

Would I recommend it?  Well, that depends.  If you own a benchtop tablesaw
already and you need to move it around alot, then it might be a good idea.
It gives you a much better fence (IMHO), and more rip capacity.  But it
also makes the setup top heavy, and at every jobsite I will anchor it
somehow, especially if cutting sheet goods.

If one is just starting out, for the price of the Makita, and the table
($270 + $200) you are withing $100 of the Delta Contractors saw which
would probably be a better all around tool.

Scot Thomas  thomas@bae.ncsu.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Envelope-to: WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 28 Sep 1992 08:54:00 PST
From:         "LARRY NELSON,
              PLU INST. RESEARCH & PLANNING" <NELSON_L@PLU.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: How do I discourage woodpeckers?

>Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:59:21 GMT
>From: "(warren.a.montgomery)" <warren@CBNEWSH.CB.ATT.COM>
>Subject: How do I discourage woodpeckers?
>
>My mother recently moved into a new condo with wooden trim made
>from rough sawn lumber (cedar, I think), that has either been
>stained with a heavy stain or painted with thin paint.
>Unfortunately, the neighborhood woodpeckers have taken an
>irresistable liking to one post on her porch (actually it's just
>trim over a metal pole, so it's not a structural problem).

        I have experienced this problem with rentals which I
used to own.  There, they attacked the beveled siding in the
gable ends of the units and pecked 2" diam. holes clear through
so they could get into the attic insulaton to build a nest.
Discouraging them is very difficult.  The only method which
worked effectively was using a 22 caliber rifle loaded with
tiny "shot shells" (very tiny birdshot with a limited range).
I finally succeeded (after having warned all tenants) in picking
one off the gable end of the building.  Unfortunately, this
effective (if you're patient enough) solution is practical
and safe in only a limited number of settings.  There are
companies which sell various kinds of spiked deflectors, noise
devices, etc. which are used in commercial settings to scare
away swallows, pigeons, etc.  But they simply cause the birds
to move on to another location and are only practical for
certain applications.  I finally gave up damage repair
(after having my new work pecked apart the following year)
and just began to cover the damage with sheet metal as
best I could.
        Good luck.
                Larry W. Nelson, Pacific Lutheran University
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Date: 5 Oct 1992 19:09:51 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin

First of all, you need to find a source of *green* white oak.   Steaming dries
wood.  You must start with green. 

Secondly, you will need to buy more pieces than you actually want.  Checking
of steam bent pieces is a problem, and some of them may go bad on you.  
Make sure the pieces you have have *no* anomolies in them  They must be
clear from end to end with nice straight grain.

Thirdly, you will need a block and tackle to bend the piece around the form

Fourthly, you will want about 5 people handy when you go to do this.  Use 
real thick gloves.

also, keep the piece wet while it cools.  If you don't it will check to 
pieces when it dries.


The best way to make the beam round is to do it by hand.  Buy a spokeshave
and start practicing.

The key is to start with an octagonal, then go to 16 sides, then 32, 64, etc.

Don't go right to the round or you will be very sorry.

Hope this helps.


chip

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Dust Collection Systems
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 18:21:24 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.163457.22861@dsg.tandem.com>, doug@DSG.Tandem.COM (Doug Bering) writes:
|> Over the last several months there have been discussions on shop vacuums, non-US made tools, and a host of other topics.  I've heard dust collectors mentioned a number of times, but with no real recommendations as to what's good, what's bad, who makes goo|> d ones, who doesn't, etc.
|> 
|> Well, I'm seriously looking for a dust collector for my shop and I'd like to hear what people recommend.  I followed the thread on home-made ones a few weeks ago with much interest.  For those of you with home-made units, what have you got and if you had |> it to do over again, what would you change?  For those of you with purchased systems, what do you like and dislike about your setup?  Is there a significant difference between US made collection systems and non-US systems?
|> Who's a good source for these systems and would you recommend buying from them?
|> 
|> I apologize if this has all been done before, but it ain't in the FAQ and I know there are some good (strong?) opinions out there.


Doug, I have used both in the past and am firmly convinced that as a general purpose "tool" a dust collector cannot be beat.  Of all my woodworking acquaintances no one has identified anything wrong with the imported machines.

A last note and that on capacity.  I have a Jet 610 cfm unit which for me is to small, had I to do it over again I would purchase a 2HP unit with a capacity of at least 1100cfm.

Hope this helps - 
Steve
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Subject: (no subject given)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:20:59 CDT
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
              29 Sep 1992 11:34:57 EDT from <KYL125@URIACC.URI.EDU>

On Tue, 29 Sep 1992 11:34:57 EDT Steven Gomes said:
>Howdy folks,
>
>I'm in the initial stage of designing a log home and I'm interested in reading
> just about anything on the subject that I can get my hands on.  So, if you kno
>w of any materials that you think might be helpful I'd appreciate it if you'd d
>rop me a line.
>
>Also, any information on designing/building Edwardian/Victorian furniture would
> be welcomed as well.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve

I've seem them build a log cabin on "Hometime" (PBS) home show which is
produced in Minnesota.  This thing was nicceee.  I'd bet your local PBS
station could give you info on it.

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 5 Oct 1992 13:25:12 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Yep, wood does move!

OK, I'm convinced: wood moves. After a humid summer, the joints on my pine
toybox that looked so good last December now look like a high school project.
Specifically, the top rails expanded about 1/8" and no longer meet the stiles
flush at the corners; in fact the tenons, which are exposed, are popping out
of the slots in the stiles. And the breadboard edge is now well short on either
end. The good news, I guess, is that nothing split. But I'm getting nervous
about the heap o' kitchen cabinets I'm about to start building. I'd like them
to look decent 12 monthes out of the year.

Why don't I see this happening on commercial cabinets? Is pine so much
more susceptible to expansion than hardwoods? Or is there another secret?
BTW, I used liquid hide glue, which is supposed to have less creep than
yellow or white glue, and 3 thin coats of poly (which I thought would keep
out the moisture - ha-ha).

*****************************************************
* Bill Alexander                                    *
* Nathan Kline Institute for Psychiatric Research   *
* Orangeburg, NY                 ALEX@NKI.BITNET    *
*****************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jlehtimaki@tnclus.tele.nokia.fi
Subject: Curving tools
Organization: Nokia Telecommunications.
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 11:47:56 GMT

Does anyone know the address (FAX) of the manufactor
of the German made "DASTRA" curving tools?

I've been told they are the best you can get. Do you agree?

Thanks.
-- 
Jukka Lehtim{ki
NOKIA TELECOMMUNICATIONS  NCS/TAMPERE  phone: +358 31 2407376
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: cgf@cray.com (Charles Fradella)
Subject: Re: Delta 12" Planer
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: 2 Oct 92 11:22:11 CDT


Yes.  I have a Delta 12" Planer and so far I like it very well.  It
is not a heavy duty design, therefore be aware that it was not designed
to plane thousands of board feet of Oak.

It did work properly right out of the box, and does a real good job.

Chuck Fradella (cgf@cray.com)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: mail order saw problems
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 15:03:21 GMT

In <1992Oct5.185337.13861@ichips.intel.com> pmeyer@.intel.com (Paul Meyer) writes:


>	I just wanted to relate a little tale about Williams Tool &
>Hardware Supply.  I have to say to begin, they have good prices and I
.
.
.
>9/14/92
>	I ordered a Delta Tilting Arbor Saw (220v, 2hp, one up from the
>contractor's saw) from Williams.  They had the best price I found, $870,
>with Jetlock fence.
.
.
.
>	I just place an order with WoodWorker's Supply in New Mexico.
>It's $70 more, and no free dado blade, but they have 9 in stock and
>they'll ship (to ground) in 3-4 days.  
>-- 
>Paul Meyer

Just two comments.  I ordered such a saw from Woodworker's Supply last
winter.  It came by common carrier exactly when they said it would.  
They did not have the best advertised price, but when I spoke to them
they willingly met the best advertised price (which happened to be
from Tarheel Filing).  It was definitely worth the call...
Second, last winter I spent some time on the phone ordering catalogs from
a number of different companies.  Williams (as well as Whole Earth Access
and others) was one of the ones that did not choose to grace me with a
copy of their catalog.  Mighty hard to order if you don't know what they
have.  I figured if they couldn't get it together to send me a catalog
that they probably couldn't get together to ship an order to me.

Just my experiences...
Paul
grun@intellistor.com

-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: sjc@cs.purdue.EDU (Steve Chapin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: mail order saw problems
Date: 5 Oct 92 20:16:58 GMT
	<1992Oct5.195019.29102@cbnewse.cb.att.com>
Distribution: na
Organization: Department of Computer Science, Purdue University

}} In article <1992Oct5.195019.29102@cbnewse.cb.att.com> parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) writes:
}} 
}} In article <1992Oct5.185337.13861@ichips.intel.com>,
}} pmeyer@.intel.com (Paul Meyer) wrote about a problem
}} with Williams Tool & Hardware Supply.
}} 
}} Thanks for the  posting.   I  have  ordered  several  items  from
}} Williams  without  problems,  but  I  do  recall seeing one other
}} complaint about them claiming an item was in stock  when  it  was
}} not.

I had horrendous problems with Williams two years ago when I bought my
Bosch 1611EVS router.  The claimed the item was in/had been
shipped/was due in in two days.  The funny thing was that I got a
different excuse each time I called (kind of like rolling dice to
determine the excuse).

When they finally shipped my router (several months late), they still
didn't ship the edge guide.  I cancelled the remainder of my order and
have refused to deal with them since.

}} Hope they "educate" the salesman who caused you  the  problem  so
}} *I* don't get stuck with him should I order from Williams again.

Make it simple:  write them a letter explaining why you won't buy from
them, and then take your business elsewhere.  Their prices aren't the
best, anyway, so there's no point in paying extra money for bad
service.

}} BTW, I had similar problems with getting a Porter Cable RO sander
}} from  an  abrasives  company  in PA (something with Quaker in the
}} name) and an equalizer from DAK.  They both claimed goods were in
}} stock when they were not, causing a delay in shipping.

Unfortunately, questionable ethics have become the norm in the
mail-order business.  Now, when I find a company with good service, I
throw them extra business, even if their prices are a little higher.

sjc@cs.purdue.edu               Steve Chapin           Today's Grammar Lesson:
       "If you loose your arrow, you're likely to lose it in the weeds,"
                       was often heard in days of yore.

             If I don't want it in my back yard, I don't want it.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery)
Subject: How do I discourage woodpeckers?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:59:21 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: woodpeckers, rough-sawn lumber

My mother recently moved into a new condo with wooden trim made
from rough sawn lumber (cedar, I think), that has either been
stained with a heavy stain or painted with thin paint.
Unfortunately, the neighborhood woodpeckers have taken an
irresistable liking to one post on her porch (actually it's just
trim over a metal pole, so it's not a structural problem).  Some
of the other owners report similar but lesser pecking problems,
but most of the trim on the units that appears identical is being
ignored.  

Woodpeckers usually only attack wood with insects, but this stuff
looks quite sound.  All I can think of is that it is something
about the particular kind of wood or the finish that is attracting
them.  What's the best way to discourage the birds?  If I succeed in
discouraging pecking of the post, do I run the risk of getting
them interested in the rest of the trim, which would be even more
difficult to repair or replace?  Any suggestions would be
appreciated.

-- 

	Warren Montgomery
	att!iexist!warren
From: simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Dangers of sawdust + electric heat.
Keywords: Heating coil, sawdust
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:34:37 GMT
Organization: Boeing Defense and Space Group, Seattle WA

I'm going to add some electric heat to my shop soon and I was wondering if
anyone has heard of any dangers of using forced air electric heaters in an
environment with sawdust. These heaters have heating coils that glow red when
in use and I'm worried about sucking airborne dust over those coils.

I don't have a dust collector yet, but plan on getting one. The heaters will
also intake and exhaust towards the floor which is concrete (but sometimes
concrete with a nice layer of wood chips). Anyone out there with experience
in this or heard of any local building code restrictions?

	Thanks,
		Mark on
		simnet@ssc-bee.boeing.com
From: JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (JEFF ROBERTS)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:08:07 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
              2 Oct 1992 11:31:48 -0500 from <holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU>

On Fri, 2 Oct 1992 11:31:48 -0500 Tim Holt said:
>In article <dnsurber.718036807@node_26400> dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov
>(Douglas N. Surber) writes:
>>
>>I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long...
>
If this is the second time you've seen my reply sorry....a few system problem
today.  I would do a layout of the above on paper, lay the pattern out on the
bench, then begin cutting pieces of wood that best cover the pattern and
provide a glueing surface to the next nearest neighboring piece of wood.
You could then transfer the layout lines to the wood and cut this monster out
on a band saw.  I saw Norm use this technique on a mirror he was building with
a curved top.

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown)
Subject: Re: shaper question
Date: 30 Sep 92 20:58:20 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp

In article  mikey@smartstar.com writes:
|
|  I have a simple question, thats been bugging me for several weeks now.  7
|years ago I bought a DELTA LD (light duty) shaper with a 1/2 spindle.  I also
|bought a stile and rail set and raised panel cutter.  The raised cutter is the
|same as the Freud UC 210, actually I think it is the Freud but I am at work and
|cant check, it does not have 4 wings like the new ones.  Anyway on to my
|question.  The raised panel cutter came with 1/2 inch bushings and I used 
|it A LOT in the past and did not use it for the last 2 years until a couple of 
|weeks ago and now I have to use it some more.  And I am scared of it, whenever I
|think of those 3 large carbide wings spinning around at 9000 RPM on that little
|tiny spindle.  Is it really OK to use that cutter on this shaper or have I been
|lucky it didn't break and cut me in half.  I know it came with the bushing 
|which is why I started using it and I did use a lot in the past but now I 
|guess I am older and more careful, I tend to use my shaper a lot for small work
|and dont have a problem with that, its just this cutter and my next project 
|that bothers me.  Any info would be greatly appreciated.
|
|	mike
|
|	mikey@smartstar.com

While I have never used a shaper this small before, there are a couple of
general rules to follow to enhance the safety of the operation.
1) Place the cutter as low on the spindle as possible; this minimizes the
   bending forces on the spindle.  If possible, don't use any spindle spacers
   below the cutter.
2) If the table has a large enough spindle opening, set up the cutterhead
   to cut from below rather than from above the work.  That way much of the
   cutterhead is below the table surface, so if it should come loose, you
   gain some protection from the table itself.  You are also much less likely
   to put a hand into the cutter while feeding the work.  (I had a cutterhead
   come apart on me once (it was my fault, I forgot to tighten the nut) and
   the table stopped the knives from coming completely out of the cutterhead.)
3) Place a hefty chunk of lumber (e.g. a 4x12 a foot or two long) on the table
   between yourself and the cutter while starting the shaper.  While this may
   not be as important for one piece cutterheads, it is a very good idea if
   you are using custom-ground loose knives.  Things are most likely to come
   apart during the startup when the rotational momentum builds very quickly.

If you were already practicing the above, then the only other thing I could
think of would be to try to get a different pulley set to slow the spindle
down (I don't know if this is practical with the 1/2" Delta).

-- 
    Eric
               Microsoft Systems, Advanced Systems Development
            {sun, uw-beaver, apple, uunet, fluke}!microsoft!ericb 
                       internet: ericb@microsoft.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong)
Subject: Shop vacs
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:19:32 GMT

My Craftsman shop vac has burned out after 20 years of yeomans duty.

What has your experience been with shop vacs? I use mine for general
service and dust collection from my RAS and router.

What should I look for? What should I avoid?

My wife is intersted in one that will double as a wet carpet cleaner.
Does anyone have experience with these. Sears makes at least one.
So does Shop vac.
-- 
Stan Armstrong. Religious Studies Dept, Saint Mary's University, Halifax, N.S.
Armstrong@husky1.stmarys.ca | att!clyde!watmath!water!dalcs!armstrng
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking