HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Router tables
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:47:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.
Originator: davek@puma

I've got a Craftsman router table (the medium-priced one) that works ok,
but that I'm not thrilled with ("why Sears?" you ask?  The only router I
had at the time was a Craftsman on extended loan from my Dad, and I needed
a quick and easy way to cut panel channels on small rail and style cabinet
doors I was building, and $60 or so for the said table seemed the cheapest
solution at the time).  My major complaint is that the fence bolts down
to the table w/o and sort of miter guide, which means a lot of fooling
around in order to get it square and straight to the bit.  It would have
been much nicer if it had two channels perpendicular to the direction of
feed, with two miter bars on the base of the fence, so that it would
stay square once aligned.

Anyway, I was curious as to whether or not anyone has a miter table that
they are happy with, relative to the above.  I'm not talking about units
like the Delta router/crafter, but rather units that take a hand-held
router.  Or does everyone pretty much make their own router tables?

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Making wooden blinds
Date: 12 Jan 93 19:38:59 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Lukas Wood Shop


In article FM7@hfglobe.intel.com, gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson) writes:
~~~~~
~~~~~
~~~~~I am thinking about making wooden blinds.  Has
~~~~~anyone tried something along these lines?  I have
~~~~~questions on what is the best wood to use.  One
~~~~~suggestion was basswood.  Basswood seems to have
~~~~~low density and I know that is a good chioce for 
~~~~~carving.  What other woods should I consider? 


I have seen louvered doors made with poplar, cherry and teak.  Poplar is inexpensive and fairly easy to work although it does sometimes have a greenish tint to it.  Cherry is also easy to work due to its fine grain structure but is more expensive. The teak was used mainly in boating applications.  It machines quite well but is abrasive and expensive.


~~~~~As far as machining,  I am thinking of setting up a 
~~~~~double blade arrangement on my tablesaw with a 1/4"
~~~~~spacer between the blades.  Since I will be ripping
~~~~~a lot of material the double blade will save me time.

If I'm perceiving this right, you want to make two pieces with one pass through the saw.  I think you might have some trouble with kick-back with the piece that goes between the blades.


~~~~~For finishing the blinds I would either belt sand
~~~~~or run them through my thickness planer.  Any thoughts
~~~~~on this? 

Personally, I would use a thickness sanding set-up that employs a drum-sander mounted in a drill-press.  The workpiece is run between the drum and a fence which is set the proper distance away from the drum.  (Of course I am assuming that since you have a thickness planer, you would also have a drill press!!)  You could probably rig something up with a belt sander as well.  


~~~~~
~~~~~
~~~~~
~~~~~-- 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tomj@monster.apd.saic.com (Tom Johnson)
Subject: Oldham saw blades
Organization: SAIC, Reston, VA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:25:58 GMT

My local distributor just called and told me that the Freud LU84 blade
I ordered is on back order, and he wanted to substitute an Oldham
teflon-coated 50-tooth combination blade for the same price. He said the 
Oldham is a better-quality blade.

It's the first time I'd heard of Oldham.  Anyone know if these blades
are any good?  
-- 
******************************************************************
*   Tom Johnson            |   Every tool is a hammer, except a  *
*   (703)318-4562          |   chisel.  It's a screwdriver.      *
******************************************************************
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Vmsmail-To: SMTP%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 4 Jan 1993 13:50:53 -0700
From:         BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG
Subject:      Re: DeWalt Biscuit Joiner = ELU Biscuit Joiner?

I just returned from Woodworkers supply where I noticed the ELU joiner referred
to. It couught my attention because it did not have the arc cutting mechanism
that I had been exposed to in reviews about biscuit joiners. In fact it did
look much like the Dewalt except for the yollow color. Now, the Dewalt is rated
very high for the flexibility of it's fence system and I confess I did not
look that closely. When you receive the Elu, if you are not satisfied
Woodworkers has always been good about returns.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: Auto-transformer
Keywords: universal auto-transformer
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:59:49 GMT

In article <1993Jan05.201918.22792@microsoft.com> stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
>
>I recently came across an old auto-transformer in my pile of strange
>left-overs.  I started wondering if I could use it as a variable speed
>control on tools with universal motors (like my drill, router, sabre saw,
>etc.)
>
>This thing accepts 120V current and outputs anywhere from 0 - 120 V
>current.  If I use it to control a universal motor, will it hurt the
>motor?

No; it's fine as long as it will output enough amps.  Check the rating.
Otherwise you'll burn out the autotransformer.

>  Will it also work to control inductance motors?

No.




-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Date: 06 Jan 93 21:32:37 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Summary: Costco

In article <1993Jan5.164020.7672@tessi.com>, allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren) writes:
> berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) writes:
> 
> 
> >    For comparison, Woodworker's Supply sells the 36in
> >clamp for $25, and the mini-clamps for $14 each.
> 
> >Size   price    item #
> 
> >6in   $10.99   04489-1WJA
> >12     13.99   04490-0WJA
> >18     14.99   04491-1WJA
> >24     16.99   04492-2WJA
> >36     18.99   04493-1WJA
> >6in mini-bar clamp (set of 2)  $14.69  (item #01034-6WJA)
> 
> >Harbor Freight:  (800) 423-2567


For those that live near a Costco store, I've found these clamps at $24.99
for a pair of the 24" clamps and (I think) 	$14.99 for a pair of
the 12" clamps.  This beats even the Harbor Freight price, but you have 
to pay sales tax (if applicable.)

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 11 Jan 93 21:50:19 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.

In article <1993Jan8.215346.10378@mlb.semi.harris.com>, luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni) writes:
> In article <1993Jan8.182410.5082@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
> >
> >This reminds me of something.  I saw that AMT has a squiblet flurbigator
> >for $250.  This seems like a ridiculously low price, so I wanted to know
> >if anyone has used it?  It may have a plastic flywheel, so I am a little
> >concerned.  The Delta flurbigator is obviously the best, but how often
> >does one use a flurbigator anyway?
> Well I use mine all the time.  I would spend the extra bucks to get a
> quality flurbigator since it will probably outlast you, but if you
> get a Sears flurbigator you will end up buying 5 or 6 in the next 20 to 40
> years.  Just make sure you get one with an induction motor.  They are 
> much quieter.  You could get a cheap blivot maker since no one makes 
> blivots anymore anyway.  
> 
> 




I've been busy converting my European flurbigator to three phase power.
I've pretty much got it working now, it was just a matter of determining
the right capacitance value.  Lucky thing too, because I've been wanting
to do some fine woodworking for years now and the only tool I have is a
Boy Scout pocketknife.  It took me three years just to plane and joint 
the tree down to the proper 2x4 dimension (of course, not all this time
was wasted -- alot of that the tree was drying out properly.)

I really wish Norm would show other uses for my pocketknife -- I'd like to
be able to re-create Noah's ark (lifesize).  I bet Noah didn't have 25
different Delta tools to choose from when he did that!!


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:39:59 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Radial Arm Saw Alignment

>Posted on 11 Jan 1993 at 22:09:17 by Joe Zuk
>
>a problem with my sears. I know my first problem is owning a sears.
>Anyway when I do a cross cut on a large board, say 8-12 in. I end up
>with a small back cut at the end of the board. I looks like the back
>side of the blade jumps over to the left and cuts the board. Like
>this:
>
>                     |
>                     |
>                    |
>            ---------
>                      back cut
>
>I tried using diffenet blade thinking that the blade was binding, but
>no joy there. I also made sure that the blade was square to the fence
>and it is. What should I check next.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Joe

Over the last few days, a thread on the list had addressed radial saw
alignment - check it out.  My guess it that you have not adjusted your
saw to the end point of play.  When cutting, the blade tends to force
the motor clockwise and the arm to the right.  At the end of the cut
the motor and arm return to their wonted positions - hence the 'back cut' that
you describe.  I can think of two remedies: adjust all of the settings on
your saw to the end point of play (see Jon Eakes' book), or make your cross-
cuts in two stages: a rough cut that leaves a kerf width or less of waste,
and a final cut to your exact line.

Jim Morgan
Brown University
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rich@troll1.msfc.nasa.gov (Rich Krum)
Subject: Re: Ryobi Rolling Table Saw
Reply-To: rich@troll1.msfc.nasa.gov
Organization: Boeing Computer Support Services
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:49:56 GMT

BTW, tried e-mail, it bounced big time!  so, a post:

(Kurt, I cannot even finger from here!!)

Keywords: In article 21308@cbnewsm.cb.att.com, kak@durante.att.com (Kurt Kanaskie) writes:
>Hello,
>
>I am in the market for a 10-12" table saw. I have narrowed my search
>down to AMT, Delta and Ryobi. I have seen the discussions regarding 
>the quality of AMT tools. Although the AMT table saw looks alot like
>the Delta, I think Delta has better qaulity. Costs more though.

>Does anyone have any experience with or recommendations for the
>Ryobi 10" rolling table saw?
>
PRO:

I have one.  I like the set-up time (short) the repeatability, and
the small size.  It was reasonably (?) priced, and occupies little space.
It appears to be accurate enough for trim, small projects, and the stuff
I do.  (I also have a Sears (gasp) Radial arm saw, 1973 vintage for other
stuff.)  I also tend to collect special tools a la Norm, but that's another
story (I love air nailers!).

CON:

It has a small motor, very noisy.  I had to add a 2" PVC pipe sleeve inside
the dust bag connector to make sure dust would flow into the bag freely.  Some
of the plastic parts are small, but I am very careful not to force things.
The stand could be higher.  Accessories are a bit hard to find so far.  Dust
collection could be better, but is about what I expected.  So far, I like it.

I would love a BIG Delta, too, but my oldest is in college--as is most of
my bank account!  Some day----

--Rich



---
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"My opinions are my own, and my employer (Boeing Computer Support Services)
 denies any responsibility for me, all opinions in general, and anything 
 I may say, do, or be otherwise associated with outside of work for them.
 -- Use at your own risk, your mileage may vary, no news is good news."

 E-MAIL REPLY TO:  rich@troll1.msfc.nasa.gov     PLEASE KEEP IT "G" RATED
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@manhattan.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: Stile and rail bits for routers
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:16:12 GMT

In article <C0G2Aq.C1B@world.std.com> rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:
>In article <1993Jan6.080636.5373@netcom.com> micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
>writes:
>
>>I have seen stile and rail bits advertised for routers
>>in FW.  Do these things do the job for cabinet
>>work?  I realize that the raised panel bit won't 
>>work well unless I could slow my router down.  I suppose
>>that I will do the panels on the table saw.  I sure
>
>     I know one other option for doing stiles and rails is a molding head
>cutter on a table saw.  I would be very interested in the nets view on the
>advantages and disadvantages of each.

I use a moulding head cutter on my Radial Arm Saw with some Craftsman
rail and stile cutters.  The arbor of the saw gets swung to the
vertical position so the cutter spins parallel to the table.  I think
the RAS is better than the table saw for this application because you
run the stock flat against the table (you do have to rig a special
fence w/ cutout though).  

The molding head cutter is a little scary at first.  With proper
safety and respect though, it does a good job.  I do wish the tongue
and groove were a little deeper.  There's not really enough room for
the just-in-case nail or screw that I like to reinforce things with.

Once I get a chance to build my router table, I think I'd favor
that.  A router table/shaper does seem safer.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: rcsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:29:11 GMT
Reply-To: rcsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Smith)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Div Detachment, Annapolis, Code 2711,NSWC

In rec.woodworking, coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin) writes:
>There is something about this 3 phase stuff that I just haven't
>come to terms with......
>
>The thee phases are all 120 degrees out of phase. No problem.
>
>But now I want to run a 3 phase motor on a single phase. I fully
>understand how the the capacitor starts the 3rd leg to kick the
>motor initially, but I don't understand how this thing works very
>well at all, given that you are connecting two wires that are 180
>degrees out of phase, not 120.  Since the two wires you power the
>convert with are 180, and you pass them straight through to the load,
>how do you get true 3 phase?

I'm not familiar with the exact circuit that you're using, but my guess
is that you're not getting true 3 phase to the motor. In order to get
three phase from single phase, you would need,as you noted, a capacitor
to provide the appropriate (120 degrees) phase shift.  Unfortunately
the phase shift will also be affected by the load impedance, and as
you load up the motor the angle will change.

Rather than to through all that, let me propose an alternative.  General
Electric has come out with 1/2 and 1 hp motors which are direct replacements
for air conditioner blower motors.   These replacement motors are brushless
(permanent magnet) motors with electronics built in to the housing to
convert 120/240 volt single phase to 3 phase variable frequency which
drives the motor at variable speed.  While I referred to this as a brushless
dc motor, it in reality looks like a 3 phase synchronous machine.  I
don't know whether GE is going to make these available only to OEM's
or to the public in general. However, I thought that this might be of
interest.  (I have no connection with GE, only an interested reader
of their press releases.)
				       Bob Smith
From: ljm3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JAMES A. MC LENNAN)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Chess table design
Date: 8 Jan 93 13:57:50 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <1993Jan6.230837.808@pixel.kodak.com>, john@ektools.kodak.com
(John H . Hall) writes:

>I'm trying to design a chess table.  I plan to do the table in maple,
>with a maple and walnut chessboard on the top.  The table top will
>consist of the chessboard, framed by a 1/4" walnut strip, and then
>by 5" of maple, mitered at the corners.  ASCII approximation:

 rest deleted...

I made such a table, with a design similar to your #2. Checkerboard is 2"
squares of maple and walnut, surrounded by 2" walnut frame (mitered at
corners). Surrounding the board is a mitered cherry frame about 8" wide, with
2" walnut frame around the whole top. The board and outer frame were made
separately, all splined.  The board is set into the frame on a rabbet. Legs
and apron are walnut. I was very pleased with the result, but since completion
(last summer) there has been some shrinkage so a slight crack has developed
between the board and the frame along one side of the board. Also if you run
your finger over it you can feel the joints in the checkerboard; I don't
understand this because the splines should hold the squares pretty tightly.
Maybe there's some warping going on. The hardest part was getting good mitres
in the cherry frame, then gluing the four pieces which were fairly bulky. I
wouldn't go with veneer- I did a veneer checkerboard once and didn't like it.
-- 
Al McLennan
From: meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J. Meltsner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Encyclopedia of Wood short review
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:43:35 GMT
Reply-To: meltsner@crd.ge.com
Organization: GE Research and Development Center



For my birthday, I just received a copy of the _Encyclopedia of Wood_.
It's published by Sterling, softbound, costs $21.95 (although I did
see it listed in the Woodworker's Book Club ad at 10.98 for new member
signups 800-937-0963), and is a reprint of the well-regarded Forest
Products Laboratory _Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material_,
1987 ed.

It's a lot of fun for the engineer/woodworker/nerd (like me) and comes
with copious tables and charts on mechanical properties,
machineability, fire resistance, structural formulas, etc.  It was the
sort of book, for example, that would have been handy to rate the
deflection of book shelves when made from different materials at
different thicknesses and different spans.  (If you understand
materials science, you'd even check the figure showing time-dependent
deflection of loaded beams to see whether your shelves might creep.)
Or if you'd like to know the relative resistance to shear in nailed
joints vs. screws.  People who actually know what they're doing
probably don't need this book, but I appreciate the chance to run a
few numbers before I start a big project.

There are also chapters on wood species, construction techniques,
applications,etc.  It seems like nearly all wood-related information
is either in the book or listed in the bibliography.

The closest competitor to this book is probably _Understanding Wood_
by Hoadley, although it is more of a tutorial.  I suspect your choice
will depend on your education and personal temperament.

If it ever gets revised, it should probably add sections on renewable
woods and on toxic/allergic reactions to wood (two topics of recent
interest).

Fun reading, especially when stuck in bed with strep.

===============================================================================
Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391
GE Research and Development Center  | Fax:  (518) 387-6474
P.O. Box 8, Room KWD270		    | Nothing I say should be attributed
Schenectady, NY 12301               | to my employer, and probably vice-versa
"It's probable, just not very likely." -- Fire Maidens From Outer Space.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Original_To:  JNET%"woodwork@ipfwvm"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 11 Jan 1993 11:30:00 EST
From:         PINKERRA@SNYCANVA.BITNET
Subject:      help !!

Could anyone out there help me?  I would like to know if there is
an Americam manufacturer of shaper cutters that you would reccommend.
If not, then perhaps a reliable other.   Also, as I live in the northern
area (today it's 0)  my shop is heated only on the weekends and I wonder
if I can leave my batteries for my new Makita drill(9.6) keyless in the
cold shop.   It often goes below zero-- will that hurt the batteries??

Thank in advance;
Bob Pinkerton
Canton New York
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi planer
Date: 11 Jan 93 22:24:06 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Tony Berke  writes:
>
>I owned a Ryobi AP-10 until recently, and thought it was pretty nice.  The 
>blades
>are easy to change and adjust, it leaves a nice finish, and it's cheap.  My 
>only
>beef (and this seems to be true of all planers, at least the portables) is that
>you need to adjust it very carefully to avoid end-snipe, and even then, the 
>only
>real way to totally avoid it is to run each piece of stock butted up against 
>the
>end of the previous piece -- which is fine, until you've planed every board 
within
>reach, chopped up your workbench and made it thinner, run your cat through 
>the thing,
>etc.

How about cutting your boards a little extra long, then just trimming off the
sniped part? Do you usually cut to finished length, then plane? 

Dave

-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Re: Stile and rail bits for routers
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 07:37:01 GMT

rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford) writes:

>In article <1993Jan6.080636.5373@netcom.com> micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
>writes:

>>I have seen stile and rail bits advertised for routers
>>in FW.  Do these things do the job for cabinet
>>work?  I realize that the raised panel bit won't 
>>work well unless I could slow my router down.  I suppose
>>that I will do the panels on the table saw.  I sure
>>would like to do something nice to the stiles and rails
>>and these bit sets might be the ticket.

>     I know one other option for doing stiles and rails is a molding head
>cutter on a table saw.  I would be very interested in the nets view on the
>advantages and disadvantages of each.

Is it possible to cut raised panels with these "molding" heads as well?
I am definitely interested in this approach.  

My new Delta TS comes tomorrow... oh goody!

Michelle



>-- 
>Ralph Clifford
>rdc@world.std.com (Internet)

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager living
in silicon valley.  If you know of an opportunity, please
let me know!


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking