HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jleung@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (A St. Xavier alum)
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 03:51:20 GMT

In article <By0yx6.E0v@news.cso.uiuc.edu> mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!) writes:
>svissa@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Sirish Vissa) writes:
>
>>In article <Mf37Jey00VI=423EY3@andrew.cmu.edu> Paul M Taylor <pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>>{ stuff deleted }
>>>Yep.  It's called most any automatic.  The Jag uses a GM TH-400 
>>>last time I checked.  Later models have the 4L80, a HD, OD version
>>>of the regular 400.  Also shift kits set to street-strip will overide
>>>the default upshift.
>>>
>>Sorry Paul,
>>   Just could not resist.
>>  Last time I checked, Ford owned Jaguar....
>>    What would a GM transmission be doing in a Ford car.....
>>just my $.02 worth.
>>                  sirish
>
>I can't say for sure whether or not you're right, but it wouldn't surprise
>me in the least.  The issue of small-volume specialty cars is a very different
>case from most.  On the XJS, Ford may have found that the money it saved by
>not retooling and redesigning the drivetrain made up for the indignity of
>having a GM transmission.  Besides, car companies can be very friendly and
>businesslike.  Look at the Mercedes 500E.  That car's more than half built by
>Porsche!
>
>Wasn't there a car in the '60s (I want to say the Cobra but i know that's not
>it) that was owned by Chrysler but had a Ford engine or vice versa?
>Enlighten me, anyone, please (As I'm sure you will :)
>
I beleive that this was the Sunbeam Tiger, I think.

>
>Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
>mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
>Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
>Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Underdrive pullys - Any experiences?
Date: 15 Nov 92 22:50:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: ra.1992Nov15.225017.25666
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <97675@netnews.upenn.edu> jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines) writes:
>
>	From what I have been told and read, a supercharger 'only'
>takes about 25 hp to be turned so it would seem unlikely that reducing the
>other accersories would give you that much hp - I'd agree more with the
>5-10 hp figures.

To crank out 10psi of boost at 5500 rpm on a 350 cid engine, a roots type
supercharger draws around 75hp (according to the guy who designed the blower
I used). But I was using the overdrive crankpulley from hades (11 inch).

-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: globay@emr1.emr.ca (George Lobay)
Subject: Mail-Order Parts
Keywords: Sardines, Soya Oil, Bread, mmmmm...
Organization: Energy, Mines, and Resources, Ottawa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 03:03:37 GMT

	Anyone have any recommendations for a mail-order
	auto parts outfit that sells to Canadian customers?
	J.C. Whitney doesn't, at least when I last asked
	them.  I'm getting so tired of paying list prices st
	the local auto parts stores.



-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------
George Lobay          "From there to here, from here to there,
globay@emr1.emr.ca     funny things are everywhere." --Dr. Seuss
-----------------------------------------------------------------
From: exulox@exu.ericsson.se (Lasse Ohlsson, T/TDT, 1129)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 1985 VOLVO HEATER FAN REPLACEMENT
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:57:03 GMT
Reply-To: exulox@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

I did this on my fathers -74 144
It's a helluva job. However, I decided right away that the car wasn't
worth a new fan so I took the motor apart, cleaned it up, put in new
(whatever you call those pieces of carbon), sanded the copper-thingies
that those carbon thingies touch (Gimme a break - English is my second
language) and lubricated the bearings with silicone grease.  The fan
worked flawlessly for the 6 years he had the car after that.

I think people often put in new motors when the old ones could easily
and cheaply be repaired. Unless the bearings are completely worn out
or the windings burned, fixin' a motor is an easy job.
---

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Lasse Ohlsson         Ericsson Network Systems Inc.         (EXU Dallas) |
| E-mail: exulox@exu.ericsson.se          Internet Z-car club member # 48  |
| My company does not trust me to have my own disclaimer... So I won't.    | 
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: johnw@tekgen.bv.tek.com (John Winkelman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Quattro Club?
Keywords: Audi Quattro
Date: 18 Nov 92 19:59:09 GMT
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.

Can anyone give me a pointer (name/address/phone#) to a club devoted
to Audi Quattros, or to Audis in general?

Thanks.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rzottola@umassmed.UMMED.EDU (Ralph Zottola)
Subject: Headlight Problems
Organization: University of Massachusetts Medical Center, Worcester
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 23:37:33 GMT

I have a 1987 Chyrsler LeBaron Coupe with a rather strange headlight problem.
It is a 4 headlight system with the following symptoms:

			   left			   right
	switch		low	high		high	low
	low beams	off*	 -		 -	on
	high beams	on	 on		 on	off*

The lamps are ok (and I did try replacements).  The headlight covers do go up.
The grounds are attached.  I don't know where to look!  There is a time delay
circuit (shuts lights off 30 sec after engine) which still works.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
--ralph
-- 
Ralph J. Zottola			Graduate Student
UMMC/Prog. Mol. Med.			Voice: (508)856-6881
373 Plantation St.			Fax:   (508)856-4289
Worcester, MA 01605			Internet: rzottola@umassmed.ummed.edu
From: lkinsell@unix2.tcd.ie (Liam Kinsella)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 505
Date: 18 Nov 92 11:27:40 GMT
Organization: Trinity College, Dublin

I am currently trying to do up a 1982 Peugeot 505sr 2 litre automatic
and have run into a few problems.
The advance/retard pipe on the distributor had worn away and so had
the air pipe to the carb. These were replaced but the timing is still
out. The distributor has to be adjusted to the left past the proper
position in order to get the engine firing properly. 
The timing chain is loose and rattles at low revs.
The rev counter does not work all the time, only the odd time when you
start the engine.
The sunroof will not open. There is a grinding noise from the motor when
I try to open it. The cable itself is not too worn and all the nuts are
tight.
The screws on the rear brake drum caps are seized and I can`t get them
off.

Any help in over coming these problems would be greatly appreciated.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15588 rec.autos.driving:6706 rec.autos:27131
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Merkur XR4Ti
Date: 18 Nov 92 11:11:38
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
	<92322.114146U59985@uicvm.uic.edu>
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: zug.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: U59985@uicvm.uic.edu's message of 17 Nov 92 17:41:46 GMT


In article <92322.114146U59985@uicvm.uic.edu> U59985@uicvm.uic.edu writes:


   What I really want to write is this: I am really getting sick and tired of havi
   ng to deal with Ford dealers. I think they are, as a whole, some of the worst s
   ervice dealers in the world.

In my experience, they are much better people that Ford's zone office
and headquarters.  The fish rots from the head down.

   I bought their ESP Total Plan with Maintenance and Wear.     So I have a 6 year
    60,000 mile "bumper-to-bumper" warranty on my car. It turns out that the warra
   nty isn't really "bumper-to-bumper". I discovered that spark plug wire aren't c
   overed, light bulbs aren't covered, certain parts of the brakes aren't covered.
   Now I took my car in because I was having loss of power when I accelerate. I ca
   n see the tach revving and the turbo needle moving, but I'm not going anywhere
   fast. I thought it was a transmission problem. It wasn't. I turned out that it
   was a problem with the air flow meter. Great fine. Warranty covers that. It als
   o just so happens (by coincidence?) that the dealership finds out that I need n
   ew spark plug wires. Something I didn't tell them to check and I probably don't
   want replaced, at least not by them. Total cost $225. This includes a $65 fee f
   or running diagnostics on my car to find out what the real problem was. And I a
   m supposed to have a ESP TOTAL warranty. What a joke!

Write a demand letter, and then sue.  This spark plug problem is
obviously a design flaw and the car is defective under your state's
implied warranty of merchantability.  It doesn't matter what they say
they can exclude.

   Btw, does anyone out there know the address of Ford's Consumer Complaints depar
   tment? I think I'll write them a letter or two as well as a letter or two to th
   e Lincoln Mercury Division complaints department and the Better Business Bureau
    of the state of Illinois.

Call the Lincoln Commitment (there's an oxymoron that I've found) at
(800) 521-4140 and they will give you the runaround.  Still, you can
say that you've called.

Just write to this guy:

Philip E. Benton, Jr.
President
Ford Motor Company
World Headquarters
The American Road
Dearborn, MI 48121

He gets paid a couple of mil a year and should be able to answer your
letter (although he never answered any of mine).

--

      -- Philip Greenspun

-------------------------------------------------------------
MIT Department of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science
545 Technology Square, Rm 433, Cambridge, MA 02139
(617) 253-8574
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.cruz)
Subject: Runs with constant peddle pumping.HELP
Organization: AT&T
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 04:28:43 GMT
Keywords: chevy v-6

The car is a 1981 Chevy Monto Carlo with 3.8 liter V-6 Chevy
engine. The car has a 2 barrell carburator.

A person needs to constantly pump the gas during startup just to
keep the car running. Let your foot off the peddle and the car
dies.

Gas is going through fuel lines.

Can it be the carb or computer? These new cars are headaches!

Thanks for any info.

++++
TONY
++++
ajc@hlwpd.att.com
From: QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: what does catalytic convertor do?
Date: 18 Nov 92 17:03:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: psuvm.92323.120331QXF1
Organization: Penn State University

Hi, could anyone tell me what does catalytic convertor take care of?  Is it
CO or NO or hydrocarbon?

Thanks in advance.

Ching
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: maessm@jec314.its.rpi.edu (Mathieu J. Maessen)
Subject: Citation trouble
Reply-To: maessm@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 22:03:02 GMT

I have a 1981 Chevy Citation with an auto transmission, a 151 four cylinder
engine, and a Rochester electronically-controlled carburetor.  Recently, when
the car is warm and idling with the transmission in gear (like at a stoplight), the idle has become rather rough abnd the "CHECK ENGINE" light has come on.  When I shift the transmission into neutral or rev the engine, the light goes out after a few seconds.  

The code coming back from the ECM is 34, which according to the Chilton's manual, means "MAP sensor output low."

any ideas?
------
Mathieu J. Maessen   N2NJZ		
"W2SZ/1 - #1 in the ARRL Septmeber VHF contest - again!"
(c) 1992 Fake-sig Co. (Inc.)
From: woodson@dewey.soe.berkeley.edu (Charles Woodson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Overhaul of 300D Diesel
Keywords: Mercedes, Benz, 300D, Diesel, Compression
Date: 18 Nov 92 23:47:14 GMT
Organization: University of California
NNTP-Posting-Host: dewey.soe.berkeley.edu

My 300D Benz is very hard to start.  The mechanic says the compression
is down to about 200 across the set and an engine overhaul is what
I need.  He says it will cost $4000 to $5000.  (I can't complain,
I have done nothing but normal maintenance for the last 300,000 miles.)
Otherwise the car is sound.  I love the way it drives.
Does anyone know any alternatives?

(1) Are there any tricks one can use to get another few months
from the engine?

(2) Any chance of a person doing something like this on their own?

(3) Engine swap seems to be around $6000.

(4) Any advice?
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15503 rec.autos.driving:6675 rec.autos:26948
From: tcora@PICA.ARMY.MIL (Tom Coradeschi <tcora>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving,rec.autos
Subject: Merkur XR4Ti
Date: 16 Nov 92 16:42:22 GMT
Organization: Electric Armts Div, US Army ARDEC, Picatinny Arsenal, NJ

I've been looking for a new car (La Bomba has got to go). Has anyone owned
an XR4Ti? I've looked at and driven an '87. Overall, my impressions weren't
bad, handling and braking-wise. However, the thing ran like crap (bucked
and spat) under hard acceleration. I told the owner to get it tuned up and
call me back. He's asking $3200 and the car has 85k miles on it. Comments
via email, please. I'll summarize.
-- 
 
                tom coradeschi    <+>    tcora@pica.army.mil
                            Loud Pipes Suck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan)
Subject: Re: Ford 400cid carburetor questions?
Keywords: carburetor, stall, hesitation
Organization: NASA Ames Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:38:49 GMT

jbothwel@brtph375.bnr.ca (James Bothwell P920) writes:

>I have a 1976 Ford LTD with a 400 cid engine.  The car ocassionaly stalls
>when turning right.  This car has always had a hesitation problem when
>turning to the right.

Recommend increasing the float level.


-- 

	Jeff Mulligan (jbm@vision.arc.nasa.gov)
	NASA/Ames Research Ctr., MS 262-2, Moffett Field CA, 94035-1000
	(415) 604-3745
From: clift@ml.csiro.au (Steve Clift)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Bosch LE-2 Jetronic schematics?
Date: 16 Nov 92 01:21:45 GMT
Organization: CSIRO Marine Laboratories, Hobart
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

I have an LE-2 unit which has a fault - engine fires but won't run.
When set up in a test rig which simulates the engine sensors, the thing
works fine - identical to a known good unit.

Does anyone have, or know where I can get, a schematic for this thing
so I have a chance of figuring out what is wrong with it?  Bosch are
not exactly forthcoming - surprise, surprise!  I can figure out what
some parts of the circuit are doing, but there are other sections I'm
not clear on.  With a schematic, I should be several orders of
magnitude better off.  There are a few Bosch proprietary components on
the circuit card, plus a bunch of standard ICs etc.  If the problem is
one of the standard bits, it should be fixable.

I started tracing out the schematic myself, but the circuit is complex
and the construction technique (single-sided board with tracks that
wander everywhere, plus a zillion links on the component side) makes it
a fairly brain-damaging exercise.

Any clues?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Clift				   Email: clift@ml.csiro.au
CSIRO Division of Oceanography		   Phone: +61-02-20-6243
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia		   Fax:   +61-02-24-0530
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: splitfire revisited
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 07:36:15 GMT


Sorry guys, I know everyone has talked this one to death in the past,
unfortunately I didn't pay much attention.

I walked into the local Pep Boys auto store today, and discovered they
had the "amazing" new SplitFire plugs.  The brochures they had scattered 
around show a whole series of photographs of a "regular" plug firing 
versus a splitfire firing on the same ignition system.  Had to admit,
the splitfire had this impressive blue ball of a spark on it. 

Question is, does it really make a difference?  Anyone have experience
with these?  They're not exactly cheap (going for $5.92 PER PLUG, vs.
$1.99 for platinums, and $1 for regular plugs).  Is it worth it, or is it 
a scam?  Are there better things to spend the $20 on, say on a high quality set
of plug wires?

Alex
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: phil@mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com (Phil English)
Subject: HELP: DIESEL PERFORMANCE
Keywords: HELP: DIESEL PERFRMNC
Organization: Lockheed Santa Cruz, CA.
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 92 00:11:52 GMT

I own a 1986 Ford F-250 diesel. Over the last 8 months the fuel mileage has 
dropped from 19 mpg to 12 mpg. Other than mileage, I have noticed no other 
change in performance. Power is good. It runs smoothly. It does not 
overheat. There are no stange noises beyond the norm. I do not smell 
fuel any time nor anywhere. None of the 4WD drive train gets hot (manual 
xmission, xfer case, bearings, u-joints, hubs, etc.) It does not seem to 
require more throttle to cruise than normal. The exhaust does not run fuel 
rich (black)! THERE ARE NO LEAKS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM! All the lines are dry, 
no dripping anywhere, positively. It has new fuel and air filters (no 
affect).

I changed the fuel return tubing and TEE o-rings due to leaks about 8 
months ago. Had to disconnect the fuel lines at the injectors. I was 
meticulously clean about the work, reassembeled all and torqued. I don't 
understand how that may have affected the mileage, I don't think it did.

SO! here I sit. The truck shows 78K on the odo, all mine. 

Please if you have a clue as to what little bugger is pestering me I will 
greatly appreciate the info.

The only reason for flogging a diesel in the first place is mileage.

Please E-Mail any response, Thanks, Phil E.
From: bboerner@novell.com (Brendan B. Boerner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Honda Civic dies suddenly when starting
Keywords: Honda Civic die start
Date: 16 Nov 92 15:32:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Novell, Inc. --Austin

In article <1992Nov10.170843.18313@novell.com> bboerner@novell.com (I) writes:
>I've got an '89 Honda Civic LX which this weekend started doing
>something odd - when starting it, it'll catch, run for a second or so
>and then immediately die.  It doesn't chug, chug, chug, and then die,
>it just dies, sort of like if I were spraying Starting fluid in there
>- as soon as it burns the bit you sprayed in there, and it isn't
>getting gas or whatever, it just dies.
>
>Anyway, it hasn't been doing it consistently although each time it's
>happened, it's been sitting for sometime (overnight for instance).
>Otherwise it seems fine - I drove back from Dallas to Austin Sunday
>night with no problems.

I got two responses.

<michal@GS58.SP.CS.CMU.EDU> (Michal)

pointed out that the same thing happened to his 79 and 80 Hondas.  He
mentioned that his owner's manual sez that you should crank it a few
seconds after it catches when it's cold.

and <steve@acuson.com> (Steve Benelisha)

thought that if the car is fuel injected (it is), then it might be the
fuel pump - the seal in his failed, causing fuel leak into the pump's
motor.  He went to some lengths to verify that it was in fact the pump
before parting with his $200.  He mentioned that the Honda dealer had
"never, never heard of such a problem before".


I hadn't re-checked the owner's manual since it had _always_ started on
the first try since I've owned the car (except when the battery dies,
say, that's another story.  I've had two Honda batteries - each one has
died at about 19 months.  Is this a normal life expectancy for a
battery?).  Anyway, what I now do is hold the accelerator down half-way
(per my manual) and crank about a second or two after it catches (per
Michal's advice).  Works great.  Another thing is that I was reading
that the newer so-called "re-forumlated" gasolines could make the car
harder to start when it's cold - I seem to recall that there was
supposed to be a big switch over about two or three weeks ago, so that
coinciding with it finally getting cold could be why this problem has
now appeared.

Anyway, thanks for the info.

Brendan
-- 
Brendan B. Boerner		Phone: 512/346-8380
Internet: bboerner@novell.com	MHS: bboerner@novell
Please use ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ if replying by mail exterior to Novell.
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Caravan wheel bearings rusty & dirty
Date: 17 Nov 92 21:14:17 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On Tue, 17 Nov 92 00:22:11 GMT, eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) wrote:

>I just removed the rear brake drums on the '92 Dodge Grand Caravan that I 
>bought used (with 26K miles, it was a rental).  This is 2-wheel (front) drive
>without anti-lock brakes.

>In one I find a bit of surface rust on the spindle between the inner and outer
>bearing races; the bearing areas (as best I can see without really cleaning
>anything) all look fine.

>In the other, the grease is all crudded up with dirt and things like the
>bearing cage and inside of the dust cap are rusted.  Foo.

>I'm a little mystified as to how this happened; this should all be sealed up,
>right?  I can take it all apart and clean it and put it back together, but
>how do I prevent a repeat?  I guess I should replace the inner (rubber) seal
>because it might have leaked.  There doesn't appear to *be* an outer seal --
>just a metal cap.  The corresponding metal cap on my Honda has an O-ring; this
>is just metal on metal.

We used to see this a lot on boat trailers.  What happened there is:

  The bearings and hub are warm from being run on the highway.  The trailer
  is backed into water over the hubs.  The water cools the hubs.  This creates
  a low-pressure area inside the hub.  Water gets sucked in through the seal.

It seems plausible that the rear wheels of your van may have been submerged
at some point in its rental history.  (My wife submerged the wheels of
our Stanza the other day.)  On boat trailers, we use "Bearing Buddies (tm)"
which maintain a positive pressure inside the hub.  Note that the seals
on most hubs seem to be designed so that they will retain a high internal
pressure, but don't seem to work well when the external pressure is high.

As far as the metal cap, that's the way every American car (and most boat
trailers) that I've seen is set up.  Come to think of it, I don't
think my old VW's had anything else there either.  I was kind of suprised
the first time I pulled the hub cover on a Honda and found an 'O' ring
there.  Nice touch, but I don't believe I've ever suffered from its lack
on my other vehicles.

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: krishna@watson.ibm.com (Arvind Krishna 8-863-7965)
Subject: Brakes with noise
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 16:13:28 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Keywords: Brakes, Toyota, Camry


I have a 1991 Toyota Camry with 4-wheel disc brakes. For a couple 
of weeks, the brakes have been squealing on application, but the 
sound goes away when the brakes are reasonably warmed up -- such
as in stop and go traffic. There seems to be no correlation with
rain, temperature, etc. 

I took it in to the dealer, they cleaned, inspected, etc.
and said "some sound is normal".  The car has 15,000 miles on it,
and the brake pads are metallic. 

Any suggestions?

--Arvind