HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Zapper@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Zapper)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: THE FINAL WORD ON POW
Date: 26 Sep 92 22:14:38 GMT
Organization: The QuBE BBS

In a message dated Sat 25 Sep 92  9:54, Boing@mcl.ucsb.edu (geff Hanoian)
wrote:

 BH>  Now I do agree that
 BH>  using high grade speaker wire isn't going to hurt you, but the
 BH>  power wire ... common man.

  Your not considering the dynamics of the signal here, there is a lot more
to it than you give credit to...

  The power that an amplifier consumes is directly proportional to the
output power it is trying to produce...

  Now think of the output signal, think of an audio signal... the power
changes from very slight during passages to massive surges at drum hits and
whatnots...

  Which means the power drawn by the amp is constantly changing, from very
little up to the maximum level the input voltage can produce...

  Now the resistance of your power cable is inversely proportional to it's
size. And the voltage drop across any resistor is proportional to the
current flowing in it...

  So what happens is that when your amp swings high, and the power demands
are very very high, the amp essentially becomes a low resistance path for
current to flow from it's power input to it's speaker terminals... which
allows a lot of current to flow through the amp, and it's power cable...

  ... with all this current busting it's way through a tiny wire, the wire
will cause a fairly noticable voltage drop, and the amp, and your sound,
will suffer...

  So basically what happens is that when your amps need power most, their
supply voltage will be it's lowest, inhibiting your amps ability to supply
a clean output current...

  Cars that don't have good low resistance power cables and good quality
alternator and battery components sound "squooshy"... dynamic range is
reduced, and as well loud prominent instruments acquire a different timbre
as the tops of the output waveform are rounded from the lack of adequate
power...

  As well, queer things happen, like the indicator lights or even the
dashlights will dance with the music...

  In one of my amps, the front panel light is wired to the same voltage
rail as the amplifier section... which means even will all the proper
wiring the lights still dimmed along with the drums, and I'm sure it cost
me many points... my solution was to power the tiny bulbs from another
power source, but that's irrelevent...

-- Via DLG Pro v0.992

------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Zapper@qube.ocunix.on.ca | "Twenty ****ing five to one...
    University of Ottawa   |  Me gambling days are done...
    Computer Engineering   |  I bet on a horse called a bottle of smoke
       (Trevor Boicey)     |  And my horse won..." - The Pogues
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: Stereo Info.
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 02:52:58 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.000242.133191@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> jcg2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JASON GIRARD) writes:
}    I'm a freshman at Lehigh and I've been into car audio for almost a year
}    now.  My past (and first) system consisted of a Pioneer GM-H100 amp
}    bridged to two Pioneer 10-in. subs in parallel in a homeade enclosure
}    built to spec.; a crutchfield 4x50P amp to two peerless midbass and two

I'm considering buying the 4x50P.  How do you like it? Does anyone else
out here know who makes Crutchfield's amps, or do they actually make
them themselves?

}    Pyle 5-in. mids, and a Jensen A-80 amp to two Targa TW-3 tweeters.  I had

Are you happy with your A-80? I was looking at the Jensen A-8x's, but
wasn't too thrilled with their sensitivity (80-86dB).  Any comments,
anyone?

}    Also, what role does an alternator play in the system?  Will I have to

The alternator is what powers your system when the car is on.  If you're
having problems with lights dimming and whatnot, you may want to consider
getting a higher power alternator.  Most cars come with 60A alternators
(or thereabouts); your system would seem to draw a lot more than that
at full power.

Jeff
--
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From: young@gdfwc3 (Mark Young)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Capacitors & Inductors (where to get them)!
Date: 28 Sep 92 18:19:11 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: General Dynamics, Fort Worth Division



Can anyone recommend a supplier for audio (passive crossover) 
quality caps/inductors?

Thanks,

Mark
From: royd@spider.co.uk (Roy Donaldson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Philips DCD 954 problems.
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:17:52 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK


I've had a Philips DCD 954 in my car for the last three years now and 
am quite happy with it as a bog standard head unit. However recently it's
started to play up and I'd like to try to coerce another few months use
out of it before getting a new deck.

There are currently two problems with it :

1) Pressing the eject button the tape isn't fully ejected every time. I
   think this is due to the spring inside being worn out. Does anyone know
   of a contact in the UK where I can get a spare part for it ? Philips
   dealers have been none too helpful.

2) The main problem : I'm getting break through from the other side of the
   tape in quiet sections of music which is very annoying. This is the one
   that I have no idea how to cure. Is it my head alignment ? How do I go
   about altering it ? And how do I know when it's actually set right ?

Any help would be gratefully appreciated as it's starting to become a pain
now.

Thanks in advance,

Roy.


-- 
---                            
J. Roy Donaldson      |  Spider Systems Ltd.  |      Spider Systems Ltd.,
Software Engineer     |    Internetworking    |      Spider Park, Stanwell St.,
royd@spider.co.uk     |        Group          |      Edinburgh, EH6 5NG.
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Subwoofer box carpeting!
Keywords: sub subwoofer speaker box enclosure carpeting covering rec audio car
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:03:22 GMT
Organization: Chevron


In article <1992Oct02.155302.20850%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu>, you write:
|> Just got done with my first sub enclosure.  Now, my question is,
|> how do you carpet these thing?

 Say, Mike.

 As I too am about to build a box, I (and others) would
 like to hear all about how you built yours.  What speaker
 what specs, what type of box, what Fr, what volume, what
 dimensions, what materials, how much time, costs, etc.

 Please post it.  Inquiring minds want to know.

 Thanks,

 TRAVIS
From: scottk@miller.cs.uwm.edu (Scott Knaffla)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: 91 Talon Installation Questions
Date: 1 Oct 1992 00:34:24 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.9.13
Keywords: installation,question

I have a few installation questions about a 91 Talon, but it applies
to other cars as well.

1.  I know someone must have done it before so I am asking for some
	net.wisdom.  Where do you mount amps in a hatchback type car?
	I was think on the side of the "trunk".  Also the car
	has fold down rear seats so I don't want to mount it 
	in the middle and have the amps get banged up when I
	put something in there.  Has anyone mounted them in
	the engine compartment?  And if so did you have problems
	with heat or the elements getting at you amps?

2. Is there some like Sams Photofacts for car installations
	(i.e. Showing dash board disassemble, speaker mounting)

3.  I would specifically like to talk(e-mail) to anyone willing to give me
	some tips on installation.  (I have installed several head
	units and a entire stereo in a 80 Cutlass, Head unit, EQ, 2 amps
	and 4 speakers.  But I am not a expert and I can always use
	helpful advice)

  Thanks in Advance!

Please e-mail me your responses to one of the addresses given below,
I will post a summary is it's warranted.


-- 

  Scott Knaffla, The University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

	Mail To:  scottk@miller.cs.uwm.edu  or  sk@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: tjd28@cas.org ()
Subject: Punch 45 Max. load rating
Organization: Hapless Hackers Corp.  Columbus, Ohio
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:34:10 GMT

Does anyone know if a Punch 45 is stable at 2 ohms?  If it isn't
what is it stable to?

Thanks,

Trav
tjd28@cas.org
From: nau@ssesco.com (William Nau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: ALPINE SUCKS!! (still)
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:20:10 GMT
Organization: SSESCO

In article <tom.718345028@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu>, tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
|> jl6p+@andrew.cmu.edu (Josh S Linder) writes:
|> 
|> : For
|> : a person that has never had a radio worth more than $100 in any car
|> 
|> : Alpines look neat and do neat stuff
|> : , but their quality has, basically, gone to shit.  Thanks for
|> : the info, though, I'll pass it along.
|> 
|> 
|> Your limited car audio makes you sound contradictory.  Maybe you
|> should purchase some Alpine car audio before you pass anything
|> along . . . .

I like Alpine.  I really do.  A lot of people seem to be having problems
with their equipment.  I believe them.  Why would they lie?  Yet many
self proclaimed experts assume that these people are fools.  I know it's
hard to except, but stereo is a subjective thing and Alpine is not perfect.
Most of Alpines stuff is pretty good, but they do have some problems.
Bring up the fact that they generally make great stuff, rather than
doing the I know more than you crap.
From: demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine)
Subject: Autosound 2000
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:35:17 GMT

  If you're into car audio in any sort of technical sense, (ie: Keith) you may
want to look into a subscription to Autosound 2000 Technical Notes.  I picked
up a subscription and all the back issues for less than $100, and the material
covered is interesting, applicable, and technical.

  Notibly, they deal with a great deal of grounding concerns and solutions, as
well as soundstaging, noise problems, and -get this- a few more 'real' measures
of head units. (NOT how many FM presets it has)

  The magazine is written by Dave Navan-whatever, an EE who writes for CA&E
and CSR as well, and Richard Clark of the Grand National fame.  They do a very
good job of explaining what's up and what's B.S.  However, it is moderately
technical, so I can't recommed it for everyone.

  Anyway, if you're interested, E-mail me, and I'll give you the address and
phone number.  They also sell a lot of cool toys that are very handy for making
really high-quality systems: 800,000mF caps, 12VDC to 12VDC isolated power
supplies, and some strange things called mem-brains... they're expensive and
they're for subwoofers, that's _all_ I know about them.

  - Cal Demaine
     (demaine@bode.ee.ualberta.ca)



Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: robb@engin.umich.edu (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: 2 subs vs. 4
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 20:14:51 GMT

Hi!  After hearing a friends Impackt box (dedicated sub box), I have
decided to make the switch from my full range Kicker SS-10 box (2 10's
2 mids and 2 horns), to a dedicated sub box.  I have a Sherwood BP1240Q
(100x2 into 4 ohms or 200x2 into 2 ohms).  What I want to know is:
Will I do better with:

1:  4 subs (10") wired in parallel (2 per side) to create a 2 ohm load
OR
2:  2 subs (10 or 12") dual voice coil, with the coils wired in parallel
    also creating a 2 ohm load per side.

I would also like recommendations on drivers.  I like Kickers, but do they
make dual voice coil drivers?  How bout Cerwin Vega, I know they have the
12" dual voice coil?  

Anyone wanna buy a SS-10 box, or trade for a couple of good drivers?

Email appreciated
posting fine also

-Robb

-- 
    <<< New .signature under construction >>>

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser)
Subject: Re: Q: Tweeter wiring from CSR..
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 23:13:50 GMT

insomnia@carson.u.washington.edu (Ryan Klemmer) writes:
> gianos@leland.Stanford.EDU (Edward Alexander Gianos) writes:
> 
> >In the latest (Nov/Dec) CSR, about one of the installs, page 42, col3, PP2:
> > 
> >"  Next, the installer replaced the stock 3.5 inch dash speakers with 
> >   Infinity's 1-inch Polycell tweeters.  The tweets fire straight up into
> >   the windshield from a custom 1/4 inch Masonite plate; Barish wired them
> >   out of phase so the reflected sound is in phase when it reaches Fine's
> >   ears.  "
> > 
> >Whoa, I try to understand what I read in the mags, and follow the install
> >(often poorly written) articles, but this paragraph threw me.  Why would
> >someone wire tweeters out of phase?  Isn't the wavelength so small that
> >you could make no determination?   
> >Ed 
> 
> I believe an earlier article explained why this is done (phased and 
> confused?).  Roughly, the tweeters are wired out of phase, so that the
> sound coming from them enters the ear at more or less the same time.
> The reasoning is, being out of phase, one speaker is always one sending
> out its signal behind (180 degrees off that is) the other.  You will 
> still have some phasing problems, but it will sound better (in theory).
> 
> 
> Ryan

Just to add a little clarification as to why this is done...
	Ryan is correct that often tweeters are wired out of phase
with their accompanying mids in order to correct a 180 degree phase
difference.  But when does this apply?  Well, if you use a passive
crossover for your mids and tweeters and it happens to be 12db/octave,
then there will be a 180 degree phase difference.  (at 6db/octave -->
90 degrees out of phase, 18db --> 270 degree out of phase, etc.)  I am
not entirely sure if this also applies to active crossovers, but I
believe it does.  Anyone care to clarify my clarification?

				- Jason
jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu
From: muysvasovic@applelink.apple.com (Jean-Denis Muys-Vasovic)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: A FRENCH LOOKING FOR
Date: 29 Sep 92 16:59:01 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: Apple Computer Europe

In article <1992Sep28.164913.15123@vbohub.vbo.dec.com>,
sabiani@droogs.vbo.dec.com (Stephane SABIANI) wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello Bill,
> 
> Could you please try to fax me your doc ? 
> my number is (33) 93 61 77 91 that's in France.
> 
> Thanks,
> Stephane.

Bill, Stephane,

I am in exactly your situation, Stephane. So far, my understanding is the
following:

I want an in-dash CD/Tuner with removable face. The main issue to care
about is that the tuner must tune by 0.1 MHz increment (FM). However,
almost all tuners sold in the US tune by 0.2 MHz increments, which means we
would not be able to tune in on one station out of two. My research so far
indicates that only Kenwood has a compatible tuner mode!!!

Unfortunately, to my knowledge, Kenwood does NOT sell in-dash CD players
with a removable face: the unit is fully extractible. I don't want that
because it is too heavy and burdensome to carry around.

That leaves me with the only possible option: buy a Kenwood tuner/CASSETTE
deck, with CD changer controls PLUS the CD changer. Kenwood does sell
removable face tuner/CASSETTE decks, I believe. Of course, this raises the
cost significantly.

Another VERY nice would-have feature would be RDS radio. Unfortunately, I
know of NO RDS tuner sold in the US. For the record, RDS is a system in
which every station broadcasts a digital stream of information including
its name and tune-in frequency (and more in the future). Compatible tuners
can follow the station by changing its tune-in frequency when you change
area and the station is now better received an another frequency.

So Bill, can you confirm what I have gathered so far? Do you have any way
as a dealer to get some European version of the Pioneer stuff? For example
the Pioneer DEH-M 980 RDS (sold here for $1100, while the 980 in the US is
$680 list I think!!!).

Other specific questions that I may just throw in while I'm here: I will
most probably install my system myself. As I am not too self-confident, I
am looking for a specific loudspeaker kit for my car. I have a new
Volkswagen Golf (Golf III). The problem is that I have never seen a Golf
III in the US so far. So is it sold in the US? are there loudspeaker kits
available for it in the US? Is it a lot more difficult to install speakers
that don't come from a specific kit?

Anyway, I am interested in any info you may have, eg Kenwood litterature.
My FAX number is (33-1) 47-78-48-30. My phone number is (33-1) 49-01-43-89.
My address is

Jean-Denis Muys-Vasovic
6, Sentier Valette
95100 ARGENTEUIL
FRANCE

Thanks for your help.

Jean-Denis Muys-Vasovic
Apple Computer Europe
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Test Message - Ignore
Date: 5 Oct 92 22:38:06 GMT
Organization: Chevron


  This is a test to see if our net server is still alive.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: bell@asdsun.larc.nasa.gov (John Bell)
Subject: Re: Wood for Subwooferd
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 13:49:18 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.120053.22109@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy) writes:
|> 
|> What kind of wood is best to use for Subwoofers?
|> 
|> I have read a few articles that mentioned different woods, but
|> with verry little explination.
|> 
|> Marc.
|> 

Lots of people use MDF (NOT particle board), as it is very dense and rigid.
I have also seen professional sound reinforcement cabinets built out of
thick birch plywood (I think it's called 16-ply birch or something like that)
about 1 inch thick - sometime they glue two sheets together for a really
heavy-duty application. Birch is expensive though. "Regular" plywood just
isn't rigid enough for a good sub box, at least not if you want it loud.

-----
John Bell
NASA Langley Research Center
bell@haloe.larc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: awakhras@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Amer Wahid Akhras)
Subject: Speakers for Mazda RX-7 
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:07:53 GMT


I am interested in updating my car speakers. I currently own
a Mazda RX-7 convertible. I have gone to many car stereo shops
and have gotten many different suggestions all of which have been very
expensive. Does anyone out there who owns an RX-7 have any suggestions
on types of speakers that will fit in the RX-7. Also, if anyone has
totally changed their system in their RX-7, I would love to know what
they did and how much it cost them. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you very much.

Please e-mail any responses to hwa@fassm.jhuapl.edu. I am posting
this via my brothers account.

Thanks again.

hani w akhras
hwa@fassm.jhuapl.edu

 

From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 18:29:00 GMT
Subject: Re: Update on Reception Problem
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

     It has me kind of puzzled, but I've come to this conclusion:
     Whatever kind of lock this cheap SHARP system has, it must suck.  I know t
Thanks,
Duane Whitlock      DMW122@psuvm.psu.edu
----------

Try changing all ther ceramic capacitors on the PCB or at least check that 
they are well soldered.  Sounds like the capacitor for the filter in the
PLL is not working.

Kirk out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: st1q9@elroy.uh.edu (DELLA M. DEVINE)
Subject: Re: stuffing
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Houston
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 21:51:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep25.195027@usho21.hou281.chevron.com>, hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes...
>In article <Kevin_Bailey-250992144000@msdmac36.msd.anl.gov>, Kevin_Bailey@qmgate.anl.gov (Kevin Bailey) writes:
>|> Ok I'm building a sealed sub box.  It will be about 24x12x6.  Do I stuff it
>|> with polywhateveritis, leave it empty or put just some stuffing in it?
> 
>  I think Polyfill is typically used when you need a box that is
>  bigger than you have space for or you just want a small box.
>  Adding polyfill makes the subwoofer "think" it's in a bigger box.  
> 
>  I don't know how you determine how much polyfill to add.
> 

  To determine how much polyfil to use, you use 1 pound for each
cubic foot of internal enclosure volume you have. For example,
for the 1.2 ft^3 enclosure, you would use 1.2 lbs of polyfil, and
this would make the drivers see, roughly, an increase of 10% internal
volume. so, your drivers would see (with 1.2 lbs of filler) 1.32 ft^3.

> 
>  Hope this helps.  :)

                            me too,
                            william c devine ii
> 
>  TRAVIS
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: qle@eis.CalState.EDU (Quang Le)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: FORSALE: Kenwood KDC-75R CD.  Kenwood KAC-821 AMP
Date: 1 Oct 1992 17:41:46 -0500
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu
X-Unparseable-Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 15:40:32 -0700 (PDT)




FM/AM CD Receiver Kenwood KDC-75R.
Asking $285.00 or best offer.
Feature:
   Pullout chassis.
   1 bit D/A converter.
   Rotary type electronic volume control.
   15X2 maximum power output.
   Quartz PLL synthesized tuner.
   24 channel memory presets.  16FM, 8AM.

Power amplifier kenwood KAC-821.
Asking $220.00 or best offer.
Feature:
   Normal, 140w + 140w max power output at 1k, 4ohm.
   Bridged, 280w.
   Frequency response, 2Hz - 100kHz 
   Sensitivity  Max 0.1V
                Mim 5.0V
   Signal to noise ratio, 105dB
   Input impedance, 10k ohm
   Sub woofer frequency, 30-150Hz (variable)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: "mike frisch" <mike.frisch@canrem.com>
Subject: my install
Reply-To: "mike frisch" <mike.frisch@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 27 Sep 92 19:20:21 EST


     Does anybody know of low-profile 6x9s or something similar?  I need
something between 1.5" and 2.5" deep, but of high quality.  I don't want
to spend immense amounts of money, but I do want quality sound.

     Also, can anybody see a problem with replacing the midrange
speakers found in the dash on an early-80s car with high quality
tweeters?  Will the "grills" (holes to permit passage of sound through
the dash) restrict the sound of the tweeters?

     Has anybody ever done an installation in a pre-'85 Mustang/Capri (I
believe after '85, Ford provided rear speaker mounting locations for a
4"x6" woofer) without using a box in the hatch?  I need the space, so
I'd like to install the speakers along the sides in the back.

     I have no need for subwoofers or whatever.  I just want some good
sounding 6 x 9s (to accompany my current 4" midranges and tweeters
that will be added later) that will be powered by an amp.

     Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.  I've done a couple of
installations before, but in cars where there actually are speaker
mounting locations!

Mike.

+----------------------------------------------------------------+
|  Mike Frisch                  Usenet:  mike.frisch@canrem.com  |
|  Newmarket, Ontario, Canada   Compuserve: 76620,2534           |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

---
  OLX 2.2  Madre que consiente engorda una serpiente.
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Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
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