HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jeh@cmkrnl.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Class-A-Stasis, FAQ?
Date: 6 Jan 93 22:34:26 PST
Organization: Kernel Mode Consulting, San Diego, CA

In article <1i8j3vINN66f@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>,
 co940@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Nicholas E. Damato) writes:
> 
> Hello, I don't know if this is an FAQ or not, however I thought
> i'd ask it anyways.
> I understand the basic principle behind class A, AB, A/AB etc.
> but i was recently auditioning a threshold amp on a pair of
> Thiel speakers. I was asking about the usual specs and the     
> salseman said that threshold uses class-A-Stasis Amplification
> with "Absolute-Zero" Dynamic headroom. What's the deal here?

Marketing hype.  

Which is not to say that Threshold doesn't build great amplifiers.  They 
DO build great amplifiers.  It's sad to see them stooping to this level
of marketing.  Reminds me of Carver's "magnetic field amplifier", "sonic
holography", etc.  

``class-A-Stasis Amplification with "Absolute-Zero" Dynamic headroom'' might
actually refer to something unique to the products in question -- just as
Carver's terms do -- but there shouldn't be any need to obfuscate matters with
doubletalk. 

	--- Jamie Hanrahan, Kernel Mode Consulting, San Diego CA
drivers, internals, networks, applications, and training for VMS and Windows-NT
uucp 'g' protocol guru and release coordinator, VMSnet (DECUS uucp) W.G., and 
Chair, Programming and Internals Working Group, U.S. DECUS VMS Systems SIG 
Internet:  jeh@cmkrnl.com, hanrahan@eisner.decus.org, or jeh@crash.cts.com
Uucp:  ...{crash,eisner,uunet}!cmkrnl!jeh
From: bk781@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Scott Boesken)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: For Sale Dynaco ST70 & PAT 4
Date: 7 Jan 1993 08:08:51 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu



For Sale: Dynaco ST70 & PAT 4.
The ST70 is a tube power amp rated at 35 watts per channel into 8 ohms.
Has 4- 8- 16 ohm speaker taps.
Intermodulation Distortion at 35 watts (normally about .5%)
comes with assembly / operation manual.

The PAT 4 is a transistorized pre amp that will compliment the ST70.
The PAT 4 has the usual input/ output jacks.  Tape, tuner, phono, spare etc.
It also has 4 A.C. outlets to power other equipment.

Both units are in very good- ready to go condition.
  $300.00 dollars includes shipping, or best offer!
  Scott Boesken/ home ph. 216-779-9626 or E-Mail.
From: lstowell@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Question about using 6 ohm speakers with 8 ohm only receiver
Date: 12 Jan 93 00:47:04 GMT
Reply-To: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation

In article <79616@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt5708a@prism.gatech.EDU (Preston Hunt) writes:
>After shopping around for new speakers, I am more confused than ever
>about impedances of stereo equipment.  The speaker terminals on the
>back of my receiver carry the admonishment "Impedance: Use 8-16 Ohms."
>Many of the speakers that I am thinking about buying are 6 ohms, and I
>want to be sure it is okay to use them.
>
    Post the make and model number and I'm sure someone can tell you
    whether or not it would be a good idea.

>I realize that V=IR, and by reducing the resistance by one-fourth, the
>receiver must generate 4/3 more current to achieve the same voltage.
>This could potentially overheat the receiver.
>
   Or trip protection circuits at HIGH volume.  Speaker impedance is
   NOT a single number...it varies all over the place during the
   bandwidth...             

   If you have the manual, see if it even gives a 4 ohm output.  If
   it is at least equal to the 8 ohm power, it might work...if it is
   150% or more of the 8 ohm power, I can't imagine why the notice.
   I don't know of any modern receivers which define 8/16 ohm only
   operation....so you may be looking at an antique which wouldn't
   like your 6 ohm speakers much...and which may sound horrid if
   they are ported, passive radiator, or other vented type design.

>So, why do speaker manufacturers make lower impedance speakers?  Do I
>need to worry about getting only 8 ohm speakers for my receiver, or
>will using 6 ohms be okay?
>
   Far too dependent on the individual speaker/receiver combination.
   Simple rules blow things.  

   Manufacturer's have been known to use a lower impedance to suck
   more power out of amplifier's capable of driving a lower
   impedance.  

   However, some manufacturer's are more interested in audio quality
   than a mythical number.   And SOME of the more exotic audiophile
   speakers have impedances under an ohm...many of them are 4 ohm,
   with an odd unit at 6 ohms.  But another manufacturer with
   EXACTLY the same speaker (your 6 ohm) unit might just rate it at
   8 ohms....due to the nature of impedance curves.  Your
   manufacturer is just saying that the minimal impedance is more
   than 4 ohms, but it does fall to less than 8 ohms somewhere in
   the audio band.  

    
From: allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:31:59 GMT
Subject: Re: How can different digital cables sound different?
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.audio

DPierce@world.std.com (Richard D Pierce) writes:
>In article <C0DCtn.4vL@CAM.ORG> pascal@CAM.ORG (Pascal Gosselin) writes:
>>
>>Rise and fall times have to do with TRANSISTORS, NOT CABLES!!!!
>>
>
>Nonsense, rise and fall times are related directly to bandwidth, no matter
>how that bandwidth is achieved. For example, take a signal that has
>precisely 0 rise and fall times, then stuff it through a simple RC filter
>of, say, 50 ohms series and 100 pF parallel capacitance, then tell me you
>see 0 rise and fall times on the outout.

Richard, you forgot inductance...

Practical values of cable bandwidth are such that they can be neglected.
I don't know the actual values for the cable used for audio stuff, but
we don't have any trouble doing precise measurements of 50 ps rise and
fall times with some $30 cable we use around here. Sure, our $30 cable
is better than any glitzy $300 audio cable, but I'm sure that standard
audio cable has adequate bandwidth.

>>If you stay within the specs of the respective lan's topology, you
>>should be getting error-free transmissions 99.99999% of the time. Collisions
>>are another story, and aren't effected by cabling (I have installed my
>>fair share of LANs). 
>>
>
>Take it from someone who is heavily involved in the design of a
>professional digital audio editing workstation. An error-free rate of
>99.99999% implies a sample error once every 10 million samples which, at
>44.1 kHz sample rate stereo implies a wrong sample once every 113 seconds.
>If we delivered our product with that kind of error rate, the customers
>would have every right to reject the product. Say the one sample you got
>wrong has the most significant bit flipped, the means you'll get a one
>sample polarity reversal. That will manifest itself as quite and audible
>click.
>
>The only figure that is acceptable to our customer base is an error free
>rate of precisely 100.000000000000%. nothing less is acceptable. We've
>spent literally tens of thousands of hours making sure the system achieves
>and maintains that spec.

No digital electronic system can achieve prefectly error-free operation
due to the metastability problem. Would you like some references on this
subject? It's quite a fascinating problem. (When it was first presented
to me in college, I ignored it thinking it was a philosophical mental
exercise.. it's not. It's a real concern for HP's event counter
designers and is also very important for computer engineers who must
share a resource between two asynchronous demands. There's piles and
piles of literature on this subject.)

You can certainly achieve very low error rates. It shouldn't be too hard
to achieve audibly error-free error rates. Even with crap cables.

Allan
From: u2zj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Stanton)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: ps audio preamp forsale
Date: 6 Jan 93 12:34:07 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

** $440 **
PS Audio 6.1 preamp.  AS NEW CONDITION:  no dings, dents or
scratches.  Used with a surge protector.  Original boxes, papers.
Less than 1 year old, transferrable 3 year warranty.

Paraphrasing from the owner's manual:
PS Audio's best line level preamplifier yet.  Features normal (active),
Straightwire (passive) and Bypass (tape loops and balance control
switched out) modes, fast high current, low output impedance circuit
design.  Line level inputs include CD, PHONO, TUNER, TAPE 1, TAPE 2.
2 sets of amplifier outs to accomodate biamping.

Slim and black with gold touch sensitive switches.
(Has that highendyetminimalist look.)

Copy of owner's manual available via email to those seriously
interested.

-Stanton Loh

u2zj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
u2zj@crnlvax5.BITNET
stanton@chemres.tn.cornell.edu
(607) 277-8000 day
(607) 277-0781 night
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: qchorn@mtu.edu (Horn)
Subject: Re: ARE 100-110 MINUTE TAPES BAD?
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:46:56 GMT


From what I have read and been told by some people who really know
there stuff, cassette tapes up to 110 minutes use the exact same thickness
tape.  Apparently they shorten the leader and reduce the size of the spool 
in order to make room for more tape.  This does not apply to 120 minute tapes
however.


Quinn C. Horn
Michigan Technological University
From: shetline@bbn.com (Kerry Shetline)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: CD anti-skip buffer (Was: Re: Stereo Review's critical judgement)
Date: 7 Jan 93 23:09:46 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio
Organization: BBN
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

In article <3340369@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk
Lindstrom) wrote:
> 2)  Those that believe bits r bits are naive.

Those that conveniently forget that the 'bits r bits' argument naturally
includes the parts of digital technology that are there to insure bit
integrity (i.e. not in badly designed equipment) are being (perhaps
deliberately) obtuse. If you still think that some subtlety can sneak
through a correctly decoded bitstream, past all of the Schmitt triggers and
clocked buffers, without (as is intended) crushing any impudent bits hopes
of being slightly different from its Boolean brethren, then you are the one
being naive.

So try and cope with the full 'bits r bits' argument, not some silly parody
of it, and see if you've still got something useful to say.

-Kerry
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: rg4590@meibm10.cen.uiuc.edu (Ryan Martin Grant)
Subject: Re: Headphone Reccomendations
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 02:07:35 GMT

Thanks to everyone who posted.  I've already got the headphones now,
but I relied heavily on the recommendations.  Sony appears to have discontinued
the MDR-V6, and replaced it with the MDR-V600 which I've heard is heavier
and doesn't look like it folds up.  I also heard from a questionable source
that the new ones definitley don't sound as good.  Anyway I went out and found 
a leftover pair of V6's and like them very much.

I was sort of pressed for time returning to college, and didn't get to hear the AKG or Senheiser models, but I think given my needs, it sounded like the Sony's
filled them best.

Once again, Thanks Everybody!
- Ryan Grant
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: gre253@mis.csiro.au (Steven Green (+61 6 276 6813))
Subject: Rotel 855 CD and 5523 op amp.
Organization: CSIRO ITS
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 05:48:30 GMT

During my (brief) xmas break I got totally bored and as soon as the local
newsagent opened I bought lots of glossy hi-fi magazines and pigged out for
days!

In one, "Hi-Fi World" ( I think ) there was an article about "improving the
sound of your CD player". The guys main point was that most CDs use crappy
5523 op-amps in their analogue stages so the sound is not as good as it could
otherwise be. His recomendation (no surprise here) was to send him your CD
player and AUS$300 and all would be fixed.

At the end of the article he included a list of "know offenders" with this
5523 chip in them, and that he knew how to "fix". On this list was the
Rotel RCD 855.

What I would like to know is:

a) Is this guy for real ?

b) If so, has anybody had this operation performed on their Rotel 855 ?

I'm very fond of my Rotel and wouldn't want it tampered with unless I was
300% sure it was going to improve the sound quality.

-- 
* Steve Green     *  "Hey Rocky, watch me pull a rabbit outa my hat!"    *
* Comms Group     *  "That trick never works"                            *
* ITS Branch      *  "Nothin' up my sleeve - PRESTO"                     *
* CSIRO Australia *  "No doubt about it - I gotta get another hat"       *
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: worley@a.cs.okstate.edu (WORLEY LAWRENCE JA)
Subject: Re: Sliding Door Speaker Installation
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 04:24:17 GMT

From article <Greg_Kaisen.5.726350640@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU>, by Greg_Kaisen@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU (Greg Kaisen):
> I need some help in the form of a creative solution for installing 
> speakers (subwoofers in my case to avoid having to use a box or tube) in the 
> sliding side door of my '92 minivan.  I can't see using conventional speaker 
> wire for this, as the travel of the door will eventually wear out the 
> speaker wire.  What I envision is some sort of contact that engages as the 
> door is shut.  I imagine this contact would have to be weatherproof as well 
> as very durable.  Can anyone imagine this working? Can you think of a 
> connector suitable for this?  I think if I do pull this off, my only concern 
> would be the load on the amp; as the door is opened, there will be no load 
> on the outputs, would this cause any harm?
> 
> - Thanks for any suggestions

Many vans use a connector like you describe to turn the courtesy light on/off
in the passenger compartment.  Your van may have one on it.  While it would
be pure luck if another one could be mounted, and still make sufficient contact
to work, you may be able to use one for a speaker.  While the sound quality
could suffer as a result of this mediocre connection, it is a better 
alternative IMHO than running a speaker wire that would eventually wear out.

-Jason Worley
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 04:37:16 CST
From: Noel B. Lorenzana <U38134@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: For sale: Pain generator!!!!!!!!!

Made by maxiguard of america and when installed in the car will
blow you away with 130db. Although it won't make your ears bleed,
I wouldn't reccomend prolonged listing cuz it could cause severe
ear damage. Asking price $20 obo. These have never been used.


BTW, does anyone else just get so frustrated with all of this car
audio nonsense (no offense to anyone)???

Thanks,
Noel
U38134@UICVM.UIC.EDU
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:59:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Am I going deaf?
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

/ hpcc01:rec.audio.car / kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom) /  2:59 pm  Jan  8, 1993 /
Get a RadioShack Sound Pressure Level Meter RIGHT NOW!  If you think you
are going deaf, the $30 is a TRIVIAL investment.  It comes with
scales that tell what levels of music are safe to listen to for a
given period of time.  Use it.  If you can't figure out how to use it
after reading the instructions, email or call me and I will help you.

Kirk out
----------
From: hm002b@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (PRIMUS SUCKS!)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: to amp or not to amp?
Date: 6 Jan 93 21:17:01 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

In article <1ifcoaINNnie@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> elef@smarmy.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>thanks for all the info on detachable faceplate technology - i've 
>decided to buy the pioneer DEH680 in-dash CD unit.  now i find (bear
>with me if this sounds like nonsense, i'm one of the Stereo Impaired)
>that this player has a built-in 2 channel amp, but the car i'm putting
>it into is equipped with 4 speakers.  according to the people at circuit
>city (surprisingly low bullshit level, it SEEMS) i can either do the
>factory-correct install and buy an external amp to enable me to use
>all 4 speakers, or they can do some fancy wiring footwork and wire
>the stereo to 4 speakers.  in this case, i'd lose the functionality of 
>either the fader or balance control (i can do without the balance 
>and not lose any sleep over it).  i'm wondering what the catch is - 
>what else would i be losing by not adding the external amp?  i'd prefer
>not to spend the money for the extra amp if i don't have to, and i'm
>not a huge audiophile, i'm not going to be anal about having perfect
>sound in my economy car!
>
>responses in non-EE terms appreciated,
>
>elef
>

I have a Pioneer DEH-750 (pretty old) in my 1992 Honda Accord EX. I just
jumpered the front and rear speakers on each side (Left and right) so that I
could get by with the 2 channel amp. I lost the fader control but I still
have balance control. Overall the system still is a HUGE improvment over the
stock head unit and it was very cheap. It works like a charm! Just make sure
that you do not mess up the impedence and screw up the amp. 
PS
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mdl@cypress.com (Matt Landrum)
Subject: Re: Pioneer CD-changer has trouble in cold weather
Organization: Cypress Semiconductor Southeast Design Center
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:47:33 GMT

In article <C0nIs7.2sr@acsu.buffalo.edu> kist@acsu.buffalo.edu (james e kist) writes:


   In article <MDL.93Jan9172528@ak.cypress.com> mdl@cypress.com (Matt Landrum) writes:
   >I have a Pioneer 6-CD changer in my trunk.  The first
   >Winter I had it, it worked fine.  Now it has trouble
   >tracking on cold days.  Could it just be dirty?  I've
   >tried changing cartridges, cleaning the CD's etc.
   >Any ideas?  The people who installed it seemed to
   >be rather clueless on what might be causing it.

   On a cold winter's day, when I bring my CD's in from my car to my home
   Pioneer CD changer, the home CD changer has trouble tracking because the
   CD's get "fogged up" from changing temperature so quickly (much like
   eyeglasses get "fogged up"). Do you have heat in your trunk? This could be
   causing the problem.

Well, I've got 3 amps, but I never used to have this problem (at least
not the first year).  Still, this sounds possible.  I guess I could try
moving the changer away from the amps.  The guy that did the install
made it look so pretty though!
--


Matt Landrum, CAD Engineer      | e-mail: mdl@cypress.com
Cypress Southeast Design Center | office: (601) 324-4609, FAX - 4614
1 Research Blvd, Suite 200      | "You can get what you want if you
Starkville, MS  39759           | know how to find it." -- Tower of Power
From: vincent@garnet.berkeley.edu (Vincent J. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: For Sale RMX-2 Sony controller
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:56:45 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

FOR SALE :
Sony RMX-2 sony controller. This is a preamp unit that will make
a car cd changer work. The Sony's of course. It's brand new. 
Asking $85. Call 510-841-4942 if interested or mail me. For faster 
response call me. Thanks.
From: hm002b@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (PRIMUS SUCKS!)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Overheating CDs
Date: 7 Jan 93 03:52:52 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

In article <26130136@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom) writes:
>Could this overheating be due to the installer messing up the heater ducts
>or something or is it due to overheating amplifiers in the head units?  I've
>had NO problems with overheating, but then again I'm running an outboard
>amp so the player doesn't have to push alot of current.
>
>Kirk out
I am using a Pioneer DEH-750 in my Honda Accord. I use the internal amp to
power 4 speakers (it is only a 2 channel amp). I have never had my CD's get
remotly hot. They are not even warm when I remove them. 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: Greg_Kaisen@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU (Greg Kaisen)
Subject: Sliding Door Speaker Installation
Organization: Yale University
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:04:00 GMT

I need some help in the form of a creative solution for installing 
speakers (subwoofers in my case to avoid having to use a box or tube) in the 
sliding side door of my '92 minivan.  I can't see using conventional speaker 
wire for this, as the travel of the door will eventually wear out the 
speaker wire.  What I envision is some sort of contact that engages as the 
door is shut.  I imagine this contact would have to be weatherproof as well 
as very durable.  Can anyone imagine this working? Can you think of a 
connector suitable for this?  I think if I do pull this off, my only concern 
would be the load on the amp; as the door is opened, there will be no load 
on the outputs, would this cause any harm?

- Thanks for any suggestions
From: wbg@festival.ed.ac.uk (W Geake)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Car Alarms
Date: 12 Jan 93 12:16:11 GMT

brian@navaho.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) writes:

[excellent feature of Brian's alarm #1-6 deleted]

>7.  Power door locks.  There are relays on board to control factory or
>after marker power door locks.  My old Viper had this.  The new feature
>is that the locks are also tied to the ignition key.  When you turn the
>key to the "on" or "running" position, it locks the door locks.  When you
>turn the key to "off" the alarm unlocks the locks.  This is a nice safety
>feature.

No it isn't, IMHO.  If you crash, the locked doors may prevent a rescue
crew or other Samaritan from reaching you.  Imagine it... rear end
shunt, tank ruptured, fuel all around waiting to blow and heroic attempt
at rescue fails because the (undamaged) door is firmly locked and
there's no time to smash the window.  I never drive with doors locked,
although locking when at rest in a dangerous neighbourhood might be
justified.

I would defeat this option, if I were lucky enough to have a car
valuable enough to warrant such an alarm (and the readies for the
alarm... my stereo still has a large knob at each end).

Safe driving,
Bill @ Edinburgh Univ., Scotland.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: 00124961@ysub.ysu.edu
Subject: Re: My Maxima's Bose Radio doesn't work! (but the tape still does)
Organization: Youngstown State University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 13:14:01 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.034027.1203@Princeton.EDU>
bromwich@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Adam Todd Bromwich) writes:
 
>
>This is the second time my radio has gone on the fritz.  It's a 1989
>Bose stereo that came with my Nissan Maxima SE.  I believe it's made by
>Clarion.  The first time it broke, it was my fault..I was playing with
>the CD port wires.  But it was repaired (for $150!).  However, all of a
>sudden I try to turn on the radio and nothing happens.  But the tape
>works fine!
>
>If anyone can help me, please send me email at:
>bromwich@phoenix.princeton.edu
>
>Also does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram for the radio?
>
>Thanks
>
This may be purely a coincidence, but I have a Clarion car stereo that does
almost the same thing.  It's about that old, too.  The cassette player works
beautifully, but I have problems with the radio going on the blink.  There is
one difference in our problems, though.  In my stereo, it's only the FM band
that is effected, not the AM.  If there is anybody out there that could give
me some insight as to what the |@#$ is wrong, I would greatly appreciate it.
I am completely baffled.
 
post here or e-mail to 00124961@ysub.ysu.edu (Chris Kuner)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Re: Sliding Door Speaker Installation
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:39:06 GMT

Our '89 Voyager minivan has power door locks, including the one on the 
sliding door.  Power connection to that door is made though two "button" 
connectors on the door jamb.  Very heavy duty and would do the job nicely 
but would not be an easy install.  Check out any van with power locking in 
the sliding door.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car