HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Re: Chainsaw mills
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:44:12 GMT

   A little off the topic, but perhaps helpful.

   I recently bought a chainsaw sharpener that's as close to idiot-proof
as anything I've ever seen.  It is made by a company called "Gamn" and
consists of an elongated "U" shaped casting that clamps onto the bar.  It
has a tooth used to align the blade to a pair of angled cutting slots.
The angled slots (holes) accept a cutting burr with a crank handle.  The
burrs come in several sizes to fit different sized chains.  The holes are
machined at the proper angle to sharpen the alternate tooth bevels.

   There is also a gauge to set the height of the rakers.

   The unit is entirely human powered.  It took me about 30 minutes to 
sharpen my chain.  I think I could cut that in half, now that I know what
I'm doing.

   It costs about $45, and comes with one burr.  The burr sizes are the
same as the file size you woule use to hand sharpen.  You can supposedly
read a number off the chain to cross-ref to this.  Get the right size burr,
extra burrs are $20 ea.  Their number is 800-457-3392 (812-867-6469 in 
Indiana, any trees there?  :).

   Not affiliated, just thrilled that my Stihl cuts like new.

-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 Moto and I disclaim       	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 everything in this post.	*
*********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Extension Table Laminate
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 22 Jan 93 12:09:44

In article <1993Jan22.070228.26196@newsgate.sps.mot.com> talent@merak.chdasic.sps.mot.com (Steve Talent) writes:

   A co-worker told me he called Biesemeyer and found out they use a
   laminate called NeverMar (or something like that). He also found
   a local shop that would sell him this material (walk-in, cash only).

Nevamar is a brand of High Pressure Laminate (HPL), like Formica or
Wilsonart.  There are some minor differences in the mechanical
properties of laminate among manufacturers, but I doubt they are
significant when building an extension table.  If you are worried
about them wearing through, buy thicker grades; manufacturer shouldn't
matter, so get whatever's cheap.

	-s
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Date: 22 Jan 93 19:30:07 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 01GTTEXMFH54001ARS@LIFE.UAMS.EDU, BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU (Wile E. Coyote) writes:


>1) Get a drill that comes with two batteries, or figure on buying an extra.
>   It's really exasperating when you run out of juice in the middle of a job.
>   Also, many drills come with 'quick chargers' and will charge a battery in
>   as little as an hour.
>
I have a 12v Panasonic with 15 minute charger, and (for my use anyway) I find
this to be a good alternative to two batteries.  If you are in the middle of
driving the last screw or two, a couple minutes juice will suffice to get you
through, then take 15 minutes admiring what you've done so far while the 
battery fully charges.  Works for me ... your milage may vary!

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: ROUTER TABLES
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
	<1993Jan27.161559.14666@hpcvca.cv.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 17:05:52 GMT

>>>>> On Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:15:59 GMT, billy@hpcvcee.cv.hp.com (Bill Young) said:

Bill> My only piece of advice is to avoid plunge routers.  I am using
Bill> a large Porter Cable plunge router (3.25HP, variable speed, 1/2"
Bill> collet) as both my freehand and table mounted router.  It works
Bill> great freehand, but fine tuning bit height while table mounted
Bill> is even more of a pain than I thought it would be.  I needed the
Bill> plunge action for other things, but it sure wasn't designed for
Bill> table-mounted operation.

What you might want to look into is a plunge router attachment which
the Woodworker's Store puts out to make this easier.  It is a
extension tube and large wingnut affair which puts the height
adjustment knob above the level of the top of the router, or in the
table, below it.  It allows very easy adjustment when a plunge router
is mounted under the table.  I have not used it myself, just watched
someone use one.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mad@cs.wm.edu (Michael A. Dritschel)
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Organization: College of William & Mary, founded 1693
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 23:32:41 GMT

Jay Keller writes:
>Speaking of Forstner bits, did anyone catch the big wooden fitted box of
>them that Norm used this week?  He pulled out a 2-incher from a case that
>held an enviable collection.  He was making the holes for the 2" dowel
>holding together the halves of the turned posts on a bed.

Not having a television, I can't tell you what Norm has, but I have a
box of Freud Forstner bits that range from 1/4" to 2 1/4", and it
comes in a wooden box.  I got them from Tarheel Filing, which others
have mentioned here.  But even though they had the best prices, they
weren't cheap (it was a while back, so I can only guess, but I think
it was in the $150--$200 range for the set).  I've used them
successfully with a hand drill, but you have to be a little careful if
you value your wrists.  I have a Bosch Mighty Midget drill, and with
one of the larger bits, if it catches it can feel like its going to
twist your hand off.

-- 
Michael A. Dritschel          mad@cs.wm.edu

Department of Mathematics
The College of William and Mary
From: jseymour@medar.com (James Seymour)
Subject: Bench-Dog Shapes
Organization: Medar, Inc.     Farmington Hills, MI
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:28:19 GMT
Summary: Square vs. Round - which is better?
Keywords: bench, dog

Being quite new to woodworking, I've got lots of questions.
Most of them (i.e.: regarding tool selection) I want to
think on a bit before posting.  If for no other reason than
I'm not sure exactly where I'm heading with this hobby yet.
This one's easy tho, as I figure on needing these almost no
matter what.  So...

What are the comparative advantages/disadvantages between
square and round bench-dogs?  (Specifically, the bench-dog
holes.)


Jim "hopes he hasn't started a religious war" Seymour

-- 
Jim Seymour				| Medar, Inc.
...uunet!medar!jseymour			| 38700 Grand River Ave.
jseymour@medar.com			| Farmington Hills, MI. 48335
CIS: 72730,1166  GEnie: jseymour	| FAX: (313)477-8897
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ell@linus.mitre.org (Edward L. Lafferty)
Subject: Re: Small drum sanders
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:36:51 GMT

In article <eStoller@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu.8@UIUC> eStoller@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu@UIUC (E.W. Stoller) writes:

   Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Path: linus.mitre.org!linus!alliant!psinntp!psinntp!nstn.ns.ca!news.cs.indiana.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!stollere1.agn.uiuc.edu!eStoller@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu
   From: eStoller@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu@UIUC (E.W. Stoller)
   Summary: Need information on use and performance of drum sanders
   Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner)
   Organization: Department of Agronomy
   Distribution: rec.woodworking
   Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:49:15 GMT
   Lines: 22

   I am looking at purchasing a small drum-type sander for my shop. I am a 
   serious woodworker in my spare time and wouldn't use one full time.  I am 
   considering the Grizzly 24" double drum type, as it is within the price 
   range of woodworkers like myself, and looks like a good tool for the money.  
   Also under consideration would be the Grizzly (also Sunhill and others) 15" 
   model, which they say can sand boards up to 29" wide, the Woodmaster, the 
   Performax single and dual drum models, and perhaps others in equivalent 
   price ranges.

   Sometimes the woodworking magazines will do a story comparing different 
   brands of a tool, but I haven't seen anything on these kinds of drum sanders 
   yet.  I haven't seen this topic discussed on this network either, so I am 
   throwing this out for comments so we can get some user input on these types 
   of sanders.

   Specifically, what kind of job do they do?  How successfully can a person so 
   some sand planning?  How good of job do they do in finish sanding?  How 
   difficult is it to change sandpaper?  Is there any trouble with snipe?  How 
   easy is it to adjust thickness accurately?  What size dust collector do you 
   need? Is it well designed to do the job and make necessary adjustments?  etc.

   Your comments will be appreciated.  Thanks.  

I have the Performax. Started with the RAS attachment. I found out
quickly that the power feed is essential. There is almost no way to
prevent gouging the surface if your hand feed slips (which it almost
always does).  Then I found that changing over from saw blade to
sander was a real pain (this thing is heavy!!) so I got the stand and
attached a motor. The tool works fine an you get a nice surface but
you really should intend to buy the whole thing ($1000 approx.) I have
no comparisons to other equipment. Use a standard shop vac but I
intend to attach it to my dust collection system soon.

--
Regards,
Ed Lafferty

----------------------------------->>
External:                           Internal Mail addresses at MITRE: 
ell@mitre.org			ell@Ed   (Unix mail)



			        				                           
				                                      


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Wiring TS.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:10:07 GMT

keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith) writes:
: 
: During the setup of my Table Saw(haven't finished yet), I've been watching the
: wiring discussions with some interest, but not much attention to detail.  I
: found the motor to be 1.5 HP and 17.2 amps @ 110V.  Now I don't know much about
: the subject of house wiring, and was wondering if some kind soul could clue me
: in.  I seem to recal that somewhere in normal 110V house wiring there is a 15 amp
: component(fuse or outlet).  This probably means I should rewire for 220V and run
: a line into my garage from the clothes dryer.  Is this reasonable?  Or, am I 
: mistaken and can run the saw from a standard receptacle?  Also note the outlet
: is at the farthest point from the breaker box in my house.

You probably do not want to run it from a circuit that has a 15 amp breaker.
However, the circuit in the garage could be 20 amp (or even higher). You will
have to check it at your circuit breaker box. 

Even if the circuit is not 20 amp or more, you still do not have to pull
in a 220 Volt circuit. You can install a 20 or 30 amp 110 volt circuit.
The only disadvantage is that the wire cost will be higher - as you will
have to use a larger gauge of wire (probably about 10 or 8) depending on
the length of run from the distribution box to the new outlet.

Bill
From: smedley@newton.ccs.tuns.ca (Prof. Trevor Smedley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Books on Routers and Table Saws ... should be Radial Arm Saws
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:39:07 GMT
Organization: Technical University of Nova Scotia, Halifax, N.S.

Sorry about the mix-up in the subject on that last article, but posting
news is far from a simple task here -- reading it is easy, but our unix
machine with the news on it won't take postings from my Mac...

Trevor Smedley - smedley@tuns.ca
Technical University of Nova Scotia
From: ksuiter@acpub.duke.edu (Karl A. Suiter)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:15:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: Duke University

In article <1993Jan27.162021.18885@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David
Kosenko) wrote:
> 
> coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
> >
> >I bought a jointer before I owned a planer.  Then I had to buy the planer to 
> >make
> >up for the thickness differences created with the jointer... So much for the 
> >cheap route...
> 
> I don't understand - how does jointing affect the thickness of the wood?  Or
> were you using the jointer to face plane?
> 
> Dave

Dave,

  I took a woodworking course at North Carolina State University and they
showed us the technique of using the jointer to thickness plane boards over
3 feet in length.  They had a 12" power jointer and I saw quite a few
people using the jointer instead of one of the thickness planers.  It's not
a technique that I personally use or endorse, but this seems to be a valid
method for thicknessing boards.

                                                                 Karl

---

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
| Karl A. Suiter, Duke University, Zoology Dept., Durham, NC   27706    |
|=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=|
| Voice: (919) 684-2251      |   INTERNET:  ksuiter@acpub.duke.edu      |
| FAX:   (919) 684-6168      |   COMPUSERV: 72701,3543@compserv.com     |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Subject: cupula summary
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 16:04:40 GMT


Here is a summary of places to get cupulas and windvanes.
I have called each one and requested a catalog.



Crosswinds Gallery, Rhode Island
I got their 800 number from 800-555-1212.  Of course, I forgot
where I wrote it down.  You can call 800-555-1212 if you need it.

Randall Brothers, Atlanta GA
(404) 892-6666

The Renovators Supply, Millers Falls, MA
800-659-2211 orders
800-659-3211 customer service


Thanks to all those who responded...

Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:16:44 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Resurfacing Plane Soles

Greetings!

I've got an old 24" Record jointer plane that I'd like to tune up and get back
into good service.  On my other, shorter planes, I've reground the soles to
get them dead flat and smooth by clamping wet-or-dry sandpaper to the bed of
my jointer and using that as a grinding surface.  However, with the 24" plane,
I'm concerned that this method is not going to be as accurate (or feasible)
and accuracy with this plane is actually more of a concern than with my other
planes.  Does anyone have any experience with regrinding long plane soles like
this?  Will machine shops do this sort of thing?  I suppose I could go and get
a nice long, thick piece of glass to use as a grinding surface, and some sort
of abrasive.  I'm not really sure what kind of abrasive to use though, and I'm
concerned that the abrasive will eat into the glass faster than into the plane
sole.

Any tried and true suggestions appreciated.

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Name your favorite blade
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:01:21 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 4987@ttinews.tti.com, bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas) writes:
>I was actually intending to get the Freud but needed the blade in a hurry
>(like today) and the only one available locally was a Pirahna.  The cuts
>on my table saw (with the 50 combo) are smooth as glass so I have no
>complaints, perhaps I just got lucky.
>

I think you got lucky.  I already had this blade when I bought my contractor's
saw, so I thought I was fixed up.  Wrong.  I was most disappointed in the 
quality of the cut.  I eventually bought a Forrest and the delight in the
quality is finally obscuring the pain of the price (like childbirth?  :-)

I am considering sending the Piranha to Forrest to be sharpened.  (May not be
worth the cost?)

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
From: jrdailey@cbnewse.cb.att.com (j.rex.dailey)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tool steel brad point drills? Where?
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:31:14 GMT
Organization: AT&T

From article <5650086@hplsla.hp.com>, by tomb@hplsla.hp.com (Tom Bruhns):
> Can anyone recommend a brand or supplier of brad point drills made
> of decent quality tool steel?  I'd like something that doesn't
> loose its edge on the first buried woodscrew it hits; I'd guess
> the way it's ground it might not do a good job cutting through
> things like that, but on the other hand, having a bit ruined isn't
> too nice.  If I have to, I'll just grind a good bit to a brad point,
> but getting it right won't be easy with the tools I have.
> 
> 
I have the Shopsmith High Speed Steel brad point drill bit set and I
LOVE them.

Rex Dailey
jrdailey @ cbnewse.cb.att.com
From: ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 21 Jan 1993 14:13:54 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

rlz@svl.cdc.com (Robert L Zalusky) writes:

[text deleted]

>I applaud the show for showing whats out there. How many times
>have you wondered about some new gadget but would rather see it demonstrated?
>Mail order catalogs are nice but 2 dimensional. 

>Now if there is some other project or innovation you would like to see
>write him not us.

>Personally, I would want to see the tool girl and how he keeps the 
>cobwebs out after the sawdust gets everywhere and ...
>--
>The opinions expressed are my own.  Computing Devices International(CDI)
>is not responsible or knowledgable about them.

>Bob Zalusky
>Internet:               rlz@svl.cdc.com
>Phone:                  (408) 496-4374
>Fax:                    (408) 496-4106

What is a tool girl?

Debbie Deutsch
From: au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 25 Jan 1993 18:36:12 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: au363@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ken Sussmann)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, biggersc@memstvx1.memst.edu () says:

>In article <1993Jan25.145201.7504@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, corwin@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (carl.w.smedberg) writes:
>> In article <1993Jan22.225302.26714@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com>, kam@apollo.HP.COM (Keith Marchington) writes:
>>> In article <1993Jan22.204107.16467@cbnews.cb.att.com>, jrm@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.r.miller) writes:
>>> |> > 
>>> |> As a followup, does any know the differances between Delta's Contractor's
>>> |> saw, cabinet saw and Unisaw? The cabinet saw looks a lot like a Unisaw --
>>> |> I just wonder if it is the same inside.
>>> |> 
>>> |> 			John Miller
>>> 
>>> 
>>> One poster mentioned, but I have not confirmed it, that the Cabinet
>>> saw is a contractor saw mechanism (trunions, arbor, single belt drive)
>>> in a "Unisaw -like box."  And it has a 2hp 220v motor.
>>> 
>>> Keith Marchington
>> 
>> 
>> So is the tilting arbor saw really just a contractors saw mounted
>> on a box with cast iron table extensions? The only difference
>> in the motor is the size and voltage requirements?
>> 
>> Thanks
>
>>>>Yes, John, I can help a little.  The contractor saw is belt driven with
>>>>the motor sticking out the back. The weight of the motor is resting on
>>>>the belt to give it tension.
>>>>
>>>>The unisaw which I assume is the top of Delta's line is a direct drive
>>>>(not belt driven) with an enclosed cabinet below the saw.  The other 
>>>>saw which Delta puts out has a "Unisaw-like box" is like the Unisaw
>>>>but with less "horses"...also, Delta puts out a "Unisaw-like box" with
>>>>a tilting arbor saw.
>
>>>>Most people who have the UNISAW by Delta are very proud of their  
>>>>possession!  I feel good to have the contractor's saw by Delta.  The
>>>>cost differential is a factor in my selection!
>>>>
>>>>The newest model of the Delta Contractor's Saw has a very good fence....
>>>>much better than it had before.  It is a positive smooth locking fence.
>>>>The drawback which is a pesky problem with the Contractor's Saw is the
>>>>"hidden switch"....I almost feel that Delta was trying to keep the 
>>>>user from finding the switch.  This feature can be dangerous when trying
>>>>to hold down a board and turn the switch off at the same time!
>>>>
>>>>If you would like I can get the model numbers and prices for you later 
>>>>in the week.
>>>>
>>>>"We" people from Tennessee are very proud of Delta and Delta products!
>>>>
>>>>    <grin>
>
>
>

Just to clarify, the UniSaw is the top of the line 10" tilting arbor
saw. Delta also makes larger saws and saws with two blades to eliminate
chipout on the back side of the cut (I forget what type of saw this is
called but it is shown in the Delta Industrial catalog). The UniSaw is
a belt driven saw with three belts. I believe all of the higher
horsepower saws are belt driven.

Ken
From: jaz00@diag.amdahl.com (Joe Zuk)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planer Questions
Date: 22 Jan 93 13:48:34 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Cupertino, CA

I am think about buying a planer sometime this year. I have a few          
questions that I can not seam to find a sales man that can answer them.      
Hopfully someone in net land can.                                          
                                                                           
What is the thinnest wood you can make with a portable planer? (1/8, 1/2)  
Where I buy my wood they will only go down to 1/2, they say there planner  
will just eat up anything smaller.                                         
                                                                           
Why does the Mikia (sp) cost so much more than the Delta?                  
                                                                           
Does anyone have a jig that would set the wood on its side so that you     
could use it as a joiner?                                                                           
Thanks,                                                                    
Joe


A
A
Joe
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:10116 rec.crafts.metalworking:422