From: eugene@amelia.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: [l/m 6/22/92] References (7/28) XYZ
Followup-To: poster
Organization: NAS Program, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 11:35:10 GMT
Reply-To: eugene@amelia.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)

Panel 7 -- References

TABLE OF CONTENTS of this chain:

7/ References
8/ 
9/ 
10/
11/ 
12/ 
13/ 
14/ In memoriam
15/
16/
17/ 
18/ 
19/ 
20/ 
21/ Climbing glossary
22/ 
23/ 
24/ 
25/ 
26/ 
27/ 
28/ 
1/ DISCLAIMER
2/ Previous topics
3/ 
4/ 
5/ 
6/ 

REFERENCES

This is not intended as a comprehensive list.
What do you want?  Hand holding in the wilderness?  Part of the
adventure is in the the self-discovery.  This is just a start.

Try a library.

For instance, climbing and backpacking is the 796.5[012] section (Dewey)
or the G 505-510 and GV 190-200 in the Library of Congress section (how do 
I know that? I've spent a lot of time there).  You can find other topics in 
similar areas.  Are you familiar with Books-in-Print?
Just look.
You can't learn all wisdom from a book, but think of a book
as containing the "syntax" of wisdom.  In the past, none of these books
existed, so their contents get better thru time.

BOOKS, Dave Roberts published a fine review of beginning mountaineering
books in the 1971 Ascent.  While those books were obviously dated, the
qualities of the review (all bad) were good.  Roberts characterized
"Nine Deadly Sins:"
	Sin of anachronism
	Sin of atavism
	Sin of provincialism
	Sin of over-specificity
	Sin of technique for it's own sake
	Sin of equipment freaking
	Sin of dullness
	Sin of moral didacticism
	Sin of ignorance
Considering these when getting ANY book.

How-to-get started


Climbing Rock

%A Royal Robbins
%T Basic Rockcraft
%I La Siesta Press
%C Glendale, CA
%D 1971
%X Enjoyable illustrations by the late Sheridan Anderson.

%A Royal Robbins
%T Advanced Rockcraft
%I La Siesta Press
%C Glendale, CA
%D 1973
%X Concise. Not as good as Basic Rockcraft.  Includes a story: Fantasia, which
is a popular account of Robbins and Ken Wilson (the editor of Mountain
magazine) climbing the route of the same name at Lover's Leap (interesting
route 1 5.9 move, requiring good route finding skills).

%A Mike Loughman
%T Learning to Rock Climb
%I Sierra Club Books
%C San Francisco, CA
%D 1978

%A Yvon Chouinard
%T Climbing Ice
%I Sierra Club Books
%C San Francisco, CA
%D 1978
%X A glossy table top book.  Very good book.

%A John Long
%T How to Rock Climb!
%I Chockstone Press
%C Evergreen, CO
%D 1989

%A J. Lowe
%T The Ice Experience
%D 1979?

%A Bill March
%T Modern Snow and Ice Technique
%X This and March's other book on rope work are real gems: small and concise.
Problems: written by an Englishman and their techniques vary a bit from the US.
%X dated.
Mr. March has just died at age 48 of a heart attack.

General Mountaineering

%A Don Grayand, ed.
%T Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills, 5 ed.
%I The Mountaineers
%C Seattle
%D 1991
%X Brown cover.
%X editions very important.
%X Fun illustrations by Bob Cram.
This book is regarded as a Bible in some circles.  Weighs as much as a good
sized one, too.  It takes a somewhat religious attitude to what it written
as the word for the Mountaineer's climbing class.

%A Andy Selters
%T Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue
%I The Mountaineers
%C Seattle
%D 1990

%A James Wilkerson, M.D. Ed.
%T Medicine for Mountaineering, 3rd ed.
%I The Mountaineers
%C Seattle
%D 1985
%X TAKE A FIRST AID CLASS.

%A James A. Wilkerson, MD Ed.
%A Cameron C. Bangs, MD
%A John S. Hayward, PhD
%T Hypothermia, Frostbite and Other Cold Injuries
%I The Mountaineers
%C Seattle
%D 1986

%A Peter Steele
%T Far From Help!  Backcountry Medical Care
%I Cloudcap
%C Box 27344, Seattle, 1991
%X similar to "Medical handbook for mountaineers" published by Constable in UK.

Any winter travel -- any person who ignores this critical subject deserves
to become loam.

%A Ron Perla
%A Martinelli
%T Avalanche Handbook
%I USDA
%X This is as detailed as it gets.
%X Inexpensive.

%A Ed LaChapelle
%T ABC of Avalanche Safety, 2nd ed.[?]
%I The Mountaineers
%C Seattle, WA
%D 1985, 1978, 1961
%X $5.95

Some notoriously BAD books as well: Books to avoid:
Books by Bridge, Casewit, Ullman, Bastille, Kingsley.
Avoid wasting your time, but they offer opportunities to critique.
Anything authored by Curtis Casewit.
James Ramsey Ullman (was said, "He's in the penality box") Ullman
clearly wrote the the best known, most popular works pre-1970.
Ullman was invited on the '63 Everest expedition as a token gesture
to raise funds from a publishing company:
The Age of Mountaineering, Americans on Everest, The White Tower (bad),
Straight Up (John Harlin, II)
Avoid the Icecraft book by Norman Kingsley.
Some works by Jeremy Bernstein.  His writing is fair.

Dave Roberts also reviewed the basic form of all climbing
autobiographies.  They largely all read the same.  To quote Roberts in
the 1974 Ascent:
  Alas, no mountain climber has yet written a good autobiography. ...
Climbing autobiographies are written, usually by men (and an occasional
woman) who are still in the thick of it, ... In short, too close to their
subject to see it well.  Another basic flaw stems from the form which every
autobiographer seems to chose whether out of habit, imitation, or simple
laziness.  Namely, a chronological recipe of major climbs and
expeditions.  V.S. Pritchett, the Engish writer who waited until his
late 60's to to begin his own autobiography, warned in a lecture once that
"chronology is the death of a vast amount of autobiography."  The writer,
he argued, ought to view what he is doing as "conducting a search," not
"traipsing down chronology." ...
  So impersonal, in fact, are most climbing autobiographies, that one could
well paste together from them a kind of Standard Life, and thus do away
with the need for writing any further ones: Start with the Anemic Childhood...
Proceed with Early Poverty and Crazy Stunts.  ...Interrupted by --
First Encounter with Death...
  Fame.  (At last.)  And with it, the first strange tones of public modesty.
Fused with the discovery of an inner invincibility. ...
Somewhere about here, life intrudes in the form of Marriage -- to a 
hitherto-unmentioned, henceforth hazy female. ...
  On to other things.  There are, alas, too few new worlds to conquer, and
fame and marriage have taken their toll.  The climber does well to undergo,
at this point, a Deeper Experience in the mountains....
  And at last, a Summing Up?

So cynical?  So bad?  Roberts takes six pages and makes a very strong case.
His arguments touch every major climbing book to that point, and these
generalize to all subsequent books.  He regards Patey's and Menlove Edward's
book "Samson" as perhaps the two best books written.  The latter is
heavy stuff (very much like Alan Turing).  Anyways, we'll say no more
and let you discover the above for yourself (as it should be in a wilderness).

A.   Expedition Books

%A Maurice Herzog
%T Annapurna
%D 1952 (originallly)
%X The account of the first ascent of an 8,000 meter peak. Interesting
accounts of equipment breaking down, Lionel Terray on horse back, etc.
See Bonnington: Annapurna South Face.  This text has inspired many
climbers into the first, and is cited frequently as a hallmark in
climbing literature.

%A Christian Bonnington
%T Annapurna South Face
%D 1971
%X An account of the first ascent of a major Himalayan big wall (siege tactics)
[1970].  This book unfortunately overshadows the climb by Messner of the Rupal
Face of Nanga Parbat during the same year (16,000 feet high versus 12,000
for Annapurna), because the English book is more easily available.
This books offers interesting technological contrasts to Herzog's
first expedition to the same peak: Bic lighters to matches, tape recorders
to paper diaries, extensive jumaring to and fixed rope.  Herzog should be
read before this book.

Also by C. B. (numerous others, he's trying to make a living)
%T Everest: the Hard Way

%A Thomas F. Hornbein
%T Everest the West Ridge
%I Sierra Club Books
%C San Francisco, CA
%D 1965 (original printing)
%X A stimulating account of the 1963 American (first) Everest expedition.
What's good about this book is that it comes across with a complete
expedition dynamic: not all things are peachy keen.  "Don't go on
trips with sociologists and psychologists..."  Includes the bivy at 28,000
feet.

%A Arthur Davidson
%T Minus 148
%D 1968
%X Gripping first winter ascent of McKinley (Denali).
Author has a new book on Exxon Valdez.
%X Account of the first winter ascent of Mt. McKinley (Denali) during the
winter of 1967.  The title of the book derives of the lowest number typically
published in wind chill charts.  During the descent and subsequent rescue
a C-130 flew next to the summit and was standing still at over 100 MPH.
Riveting account of expedition, snow cave, igloo living.

%A Howard Snyder
%T The Hall of the Mountain King
%X One account of the largest fatality disaster on Denali (summer 1967).
Should be read with a rebuttal piece by Wilcox (the expedition leader).
Brad Washburn sides with this author.

%A Joe Wilcox
%T White Winds
%X Leader of an ill-fated expedition where 7 of 12 people died.
Should be read with Snyder's account (Snyder's book came out first).

%A Arlene Blum
%T Annapurna, a Woman's Place
%I Sierra Club Books?
%C San Francisco, CA
%D 1978

%A Herman Buhl
%T Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
%T Lonely Challenge (special English version)
%X The original: hold snow balls in his hand to toughen them.  Buhl was
extremely poor: first climbing was done in socks, then ski boots
before first 

B.   Fiction
  .1   Novel

%A Jeff Long
%T Angels of Light
%I Sierra Club Books
%X Modern climbing tale based on an actual event in Yosemite.
Long is perhaps the premier write of climbing fiction.  The story
concerns the events surrounding the crash of a pot-filled plane
and the killing off of Yosemite climbers.

%A James Salter
%T Solo Faces
%I Harper & Row
%D 1988

  .2   Noveletta
  .3   articles

C.   (Auto)Biographies

%A Lionel Terray
%T Conquistors of the Useless

%A Chris Bonnington
%T I Chose to Climb
numerous other books

%A Heinrich Harrer
%T The White Spider (Die Weisse Spinne)
%D 1930's
%X History of the climbing on the Eiger nordwand.


C.a  Anthologies

%A Tom Patey
%T One Man's Mountain
%X A collection of short stories, songs, etc. published posthumously by Tom's
wife.  Includes such classics as The Art of Climbing Down Gracefully,
A Short Walk with Whillians, his guide to climbing
terminology (e.g. solo: one man falling alone, roped party: several men
falling together), and his well known songs.  Possibly some of the best
contemptorary climbing humor.

%A David Roberts
%T Mtn. of My Fear
%X About the second ascent of Mt. Huntington in Alaska and the
first ascent of its West face.
%XI enjoyed the author's honesty and introspection in the "Mountain
of My Fear", the story of a light expedition up a rib on Mt. Deborah
in the late sixties. The story reads well and caused me to reflect
and compare to some of my own rambles. More than a mountain
adventure, it conveyed a loss of innocence without a loss of love
for the mountains.

%A David Roberts
%T Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative
%X About the unsuccessful attempt by Roberts and Don Jensen (Jensen pack
and the Jensen Bombshelter Tent) to climb Mt. Debroah in Alaska.  Interesting
introspective reading.

%A David Roberts
%T Great Expedition Hoaxes

%A David Roberts
%T Moments of Doubt
%I The Mountaineers
%C Seattle, WA
%D 1986
%X Anthology of short non-fiction articles.
%X Roberts made part of his living (after leaving mathematics)
by outdoor instruction and as an English prof in the NE.  During this
time he wrote for Outside Magazine.  This volume is a collection of
Outside articles and other works.  The title derives from a very
powerful article about the loss of two very close friends
(one in Boulder and the other in Alaska [Huntington]).  The chapters
"Rafting by the BBC" and "Burnout in the Maze" [for any outdoor ed
types] were pleasant surprises.  Unfortunately, some of Robert's most
important and controversial articles on "The Failure" of American
women's expeditions are included.  Other subjects include people:
Messner, Roskelly, and others.  A cute article on bouldering.

%A R. Messner
%T The Seventh Grade
%X An unfortunately poor translation predicting his flash ascent
of Hidden Peak with Peter Habeler in super-Alpine style (3 days).
Includes 10 hour Eiger Ascent (just happened during the filming
of Eiger Sanction), Les Doites NE face 8.5 hours, and Rupal flank
of Nanga Parbat.  Has numerous other books on fast ascents
of Everest, K2, and more general interest.
The first man to climb all 8K meter peaks.

%A G. Rebuffat: Any book (Starlight and Storm, Mt. Blanc, etc.)
Picture books:
Anything by Gaston Rebuffat (almost)

Bonatti's new book on the Chamonix area

%A Felice Benuzzi
%T No Picnic on Mt. Kenya
%X The real account of two Italian POWs during WWII who escaped after
fashioning climbing gear from kitchen utensils.  They got up the
3rd summit.  All the more interesting because it happened.

%A ?
%T High in the Cold Thin Air
%X Hillary returned to winter in the Himalaya in 1961-62 (first time)
and his party did the first (illegal) ascent of Ama Dablam as well as
important physiology research.

I'm leaving out numerous other good account like the first K2 ascent,
the G IV ascent by Bonnatti, and Cho Oyu.  I've just run out of time.

D. Guide Books

%A Allen Steck
%A Steve Roper
%T Fifty Classic Climbs
%I Sierra Club Books
%X Also known as Fifty Crowded Climbs.  Thank god they didn't put
all my favorite climbs inside.

Guidebooks have several problems.  Rarely do writers have competition for
geographic areas, but notable are the words of
Fred Beckey.

Avoid the 1974 edition (Gray) of the Climbers Guide to the High Sierra
(edited by Smateko).

%A F. Beckey -- Several

%A P. Ament -- High Over Boulder [reading, better guides exist]

Regional Books

%A F. Beckey
%T Challenge of the N. Cascades

%A Dee Molenaar
%T Challenge of Rainier
%I The Mountaineers
%C Seattle, WA
%D 1987

L.   Humor

%A Warren Harding
%T Downward Bound
%X Essential guide to BAT: Basically Absurd technology.

%A W. E. Bowman
%T The Ascent of Rumdoodle
%X The classic expedition spoof.  Recently reprinted.

%A Whippersnaith
%T The Night Climbers of Cambridge
%X Older style humor.  I wish I could find a copy of this book.
I borrowed a copy from a friend who was editor of the Cambridge
Mountaineering Journal.  Humorous building climbing like early
Monty Python.

%A Joe Kelsey
%T The Climbing Cartoons of Sheridan Anderson

%A Peter Steele
%T Doctor on Everest
%I Hodder & Stoughton
%D 1972
%X It's an account of being the doctor on the 1971 Everest
expedition.  It was an international expedition that attempted
both the West Ridge, and the South West Face, and unfortunately
ended in acrimony.  Anyway, I think it's a good book, partly
because it's a lot more human than the "Hard men, hanging by a
hair of Nanga Parbat" of Chris Bonnington et al.

%A Don Whillans did an autobiography which would probably be good, and
as well, Dougal Haston wrote a novel, "Calculated Risk" I think,
but I don't think it was too good (he had a bit part in the
"Eiger Sanction").

%A Chris Jones
%T Climbing in North America
%I Univ. of CA Press.
%C Berkeley, CA
%D 1976
%X A good history.  Has taken some criticism, but many areas are minor.

Various older works by James Ramsey Ullman.

%A Dudley Chelton
%A Bob Godfrey
%T Climb
%X Bob Godfrey committed suicide in 1990 after learning he had a
debilitating disease.  He is survived by his wife and child.
%X Climbing in Colorado.  Interesting (How did they photograph that
angle shots).

%A Ken Wilson
%T Hard Rock
%T Classic Rock
%T Classic Ice
%X Climbing in England

%A Ken Wilson, ed.
%T Games Climbers Play
%X A collection of important articles named after the extremely important work
by Lito Tejades-Flores (Seven games: bouldering, crags, .* , alpine,
expedition).  I would never be forgiven if I didn't mention this collection.

Several books by Galen Rowell
%T The Vertical World of Yosemite
Numerous books to support Galen Rowell's living: In the Throne Room
of the Gods (not bad, but accused of Whitaker bashing), Yosemite,
Mountain Light, etc.

%A Richard Mitchell
%Z OSU
%T The Mountain Experience:
Psychology and Sociology of Adventure
%I Univ. of Chicago Press
%C Chicago, IL
%D 1983

Caving:
_On Rope_
by Allen Padgett and Bruce Smith
available at the 
National Speleological Society 
Dept. 19
Cave Avenue
Huntsville, AL 35810
(205) 852-1300
or from 
Speleobooks 
PO Box 10
Schoharie, NY 12157
(518) 295-7978

Equipment may be ordered from (among a number of other places, including REI):
Bob & Bob
PO Box 441-N
Lewisburg, WV 24901
(304) 772-5049

_The Caves Beyond_, Lawrence and Brucker, Zephyrus Press (may be out of print)
The Floyd Collins Crystal Cave Expedition in the 1950's.

_The Longest Cave_, Brucker and Watson, Knopf, 1976
The exploration of Flint Ridge after the above expedition, and its connection
to Mammoth Cave in 1972.  

_Carlsbad, Caves and a Camera_, Nymeyer, Zephyrus Press, 1978
Early (1930-1940) explorations and early cave photos by the author and his
friends.  Very nice book--give you the flavor of what it must have been like
back then to go caving when the sport/hobby/science was in its infancy.

Well, here's a few reviews, just be careful with that axe, Eugene...

Pat O'Connell
NSS 13878RL


Lastly:

  "Real Programmers don't play tennis, or any sport that requires you to
  change clothes.  Mountain climbing is OK, and real programmers always
  wear their climbing boots to work in case a mountain should suddenly
  spring up in the middle of a machine room."

from: "Real programmers don't write specs" in
%A George S. Almasi
%A Allan Gottlieb
%T Highly Parallel Computing
%I Benjamin/Cummings division of Addison Wesley Inc.
%D 1989
%K ISBN # 0-8053-0177-1, book, text, Ultracomputer, grecommended,
%$ $36.95
%X This is a kinda neat book.  There are special net
antecdotes which makes this interesting.
What does this have to do with parallel computing?  Everything.  Get the
book to find out why.

<END CONSTRUCTION ZONE>

Sources: [try local stores, else:]
Michael Chessler Books, Denver, CO
(800) 654-8502
The Mountaineers, Seattle, WA
(800) 553-4453
Sierra Club Books/Random House
(212) 872-8076


"Mountaineering" by C.T. Dent with contributions from some of the
     prominent climbers of the time (Conway, Freshfield,...);
"Mountaineering" by Dent is a delightful "how-to" book of
mountaineering written around 1890. It is interesting from
an historical perspective, but what sets it apart is the
author's sage sense of humor. The humor brought to me a sense
of the author's accumulated experience and wisdom; "here's
how to do it----and here's what really happens when you try."

"Images De L'Himalaya" by J. Escarra and V. Sella;     
"Images De L'Himalaya" is a photo album of Vitorio Sella's photos
from an early attempt/recon of K2 (1910?). The book itself is
not very good since its paper is poor. However, the photos
are great and on large, coffee table size, pages. What I really
like is Sella's photography (black and white, of course) and
this is the only book I've seen that has them in large images.

"Mount Analogue" by Rene Daumal;
"Mount Analogue: A Novel of Symbolically Authentic Non-Euclidean
Adventures in Mountain Climbing" is an unfinished story translated
from French. Daumal died(1944) before completing the work. The 
translation loses some of the original's effects, but for those who 
don't know french the english translation is still good. What's there 
is short and odd, being an exercise in perspectives and a general 
commentary on human values. The story is cut short right when the 
ascent part commences. This is unfortunate, but, in a way, adds 
another perspective to the story.

"The Throne Of the Gods" by A. Heim and A. Gansser
"The Throne Of the Gods: An Account Of The First Swiss Expedition
To the Himalaya" was originally published in german (I think) and
is a paragon of documentation for an exploratory expedition. This
account is both a reference work and an adventure, perhaps the last
(1939) of a genre. 

Including "A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush", by Eric Newby (try to find the
version with pictures).

H.W. Tilman, _Snow on the Equator_, _The Ascent of Nanda Devi_
    (The first covers many improbable adventures in colonial Africa, including
     early ascents of Mt Kenya and the Ruwenzori.)
Tenzing Norqay, _Tiger of the Snows_ (autobiography of one of the great ones)

Try Glenn Randall's book Breaking Point (Chockstone Press) for a nice
description of a desperate climb on the south face of Mt. Hunter.  
Randall, Peter Metcalf and Pete Athens ended up taking 13 days but
only planned on 6.  Hmmm... sounded like they were mighty desperate
and hungry by the end of the 13th day.


Other hyperclassics include:

_The Hard Years_, Joe Brown

	The definitive chronicle of the greatest age of British rock
	climbing.

_Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia_, John Cleare

	Outstanding photographs of then-desperates in Snowdonia. These
	pictures were taken very deliberately, usually from rappel. 
	The earliest example of "modern" climbing photography, such as
	is practiced today by Brian Bailey, Uli Weissmeir, etc.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Geoffrey Winthrop Young's classic
_On High Hills_ (if I remember the title correctly). It has the
wonderful description of Franz Lachmatter ascending, apparently
by friction, a vertical patch that "if there were any rugosities
at all, they consisted merely of variations in the pressure of the 
air" (quote from memory).

Sacred Summits   		by Peter Boardman
The Shining Mountain    	 "
Thin Air   			by Greg Child
A Walk in the Sky  		by Nick Clinch
K2: Triumph and Tragedy 	by Jim Curran
Summit Fever  			by Greig Andrew
Annapurna	 		by Maurice Herzog
K2: The Savage Mountain 	by Charles Houston
All Fourteen Eight Thousanders  by Reinhold Messner
In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods		by Galen Rowell
Savage Arena			by Joe Tasker
Lonely Victory			by Peter Habeler
White Limbo			by Lincoln Hall
The Crystal Horizon		by Reinhold Messner
Everest: The Kangshung Face	by Steven Venables
Everest: The Testing Place	by John West
Touching the Void		by Joe Simpson
Breaking Point 			by Glenn Randall
Everest, The Hard Way		by Chris Bonington
The Boldest Dream		by Rick Ridgeway
The Last Step			by Rick Ridgeway
Storm and Sorrow		by Robert Craig

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