HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: slane@cfa.harvard.edu (Patrick Slane)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Carpenter ants
Date: 31 Jul 92 17:32:18 GMT
Organization: Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory, Cambridge, MA,  USA

From article <1992Jul28.005816.14395@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, by patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie):
> In article <1992Jul27.150434.17935@calvin.edu> () writes:
>>We have been (mis)treated by Orkin for the past year for carpenter ants.  
>>The cost was over $600 for the year.  Can I do the squirting of chemicals
>>myself?  Do I really need to worry much about carpenter ant damage?  I did
>>discover a nest myself which precipitated my inquiries.  I read that these ants
>>don't eat wood, but just tunnel in it (contrary to what the Orkin guy said).
>>I would appreciate any advice on this problem.
> 
> That seems high. I hired one of our local exterminators for my treatment
> last year, and he charged less than $400.
> 

After finding a huge nest of carpenter ants while replacing some bad siding
yesterday, I blasted the ants with an ant spray from the local hardware
store - it took care of them in short order. This morning, I had an 
exterminator come in to treat the rest of the house (I actually think I
got the only nest, but after the sight of zillions of those creatures 
scurrying around, carrying tons of eggs, well I wanted to be sure...).
He charged $155 and gave a 1 year guarantee.

> 
> Like you, I've heard that they only tunnel in wood, but they have a fair
> reproductive rate and can do a lot of damage if undetected. They don't
> destroy stuff as fast as termites, by any means.
> 

From the looks of the wood where the nest was, they may not *eat* the wood
but the tunnels sure destroyed it. I definitely have to replace several
studs. In fact, if anyone out there has words of wisdom for replacing
the structural framing around a patio door, pass them this way...


..........................................................................
						"Images of broken light
Pat Slane					 Which dance before me
Harvard-Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics	  like a million eyes
slane@cfa.harvard.edu				 They call me on and on
						 Across the Universe"
..........................................................................
From: scholl@uvmark.uucp (Kathryn Scholl)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Round tile cut with no wet saw?
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:14:01 GMT
Organization: Vmark Software, Inc.


I'm attempting my second tile job.  The first was my kitchen, which
had quite a few nips & scores, and turned out great.  (Thanks to
various advice from co-workers and netters!)

Now, I'm doing my entryway and would like to get some first-hand
experience with big curves.  Four of the 12 x 12 "marble-ized" tiles
will be up against the first step of a staircase, which is a wide curve.

I don't have a wet saw, which I've heard doesn't do curves anyway.
So, I have a couple of options to try to get the decent curve with
a somewhat clean look, given my template:

   1.  Straight-score from point A to B, where each is the beginning
         end end of the curve on the tile, respectively.
       Score the actual curve with a hand-scorer, (following against
         a paint can or something) and cover with tape.
       On the reverse side, drill holes along the curve.
       Nip out the curve with a hand nipper, working my way up to
         the drilled holes.
       File down to smooth out curve with a masonary file of some sort.

   2.  Rent some sort of mitre or jig saw, with a masonary blade.
       Tape the curve on the glazed side, and saw away on the reverse side,
         as the tile is mounted up on something.

What is "the norm" when it comes to cutting out big curves on tile?
I have ALOT of patience (like tile-nipping patience) since I always
want my project to look as best as possible.  I know that the grout
can hide alot of the rough look of the nips, but if anyone has any
other suggestions, I'd really appreciate it!

Also, is a 1/16" grout line alright for my 12 x 12 tiles, or should
I go to a 1/8"?  I want it to look as much like marble, so I thought
the thinner grout lines would look best, but I don't want to jeopardize
them cracking.  Maybe I could add more silicon "milk" to my grout
mixture?

Thanks!
Kathryn

-- 
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Kathryn Scholl  ** Above text reflects opinions of the author, not VMark **
 Vmark Software, Inc., 30 Speen Street, Framingham, MA  01701, USA
 Internet: uvmark!scholl@merk.com, UUCP: uunet!merk.com!uvmark!scholl
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:9944 misc.invest.real-estate:358
From: jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate
Subject: Re: building a house
Date: 29 Jul 92 14:06:29 GMT
Reply-To: jeff@fang.clearpoint.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: /home/jeff/.organization

On 27 Jul 92 20:14:12 GMT, mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan) said:
D> Are there any books or magazine articles that discuss in detail on how
D> to build your own house ?  What is the best real-estate magazine ?

Home Time did a series on how to be your own prime contractor.  It
looked pretty thorough on TV and they usually add more  stuff in the
tapes.  You should be able to pick up the tapes at most home centers.

I have a friend who was his own prime contractor twice.  He saved a
lot of  money, but it was a lot of work.  I think that he had an
easier time the second time because of the recession.  More
contractors were hungrier for the work :).
--

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Jeff Griglack             |"Hey, you talking to me or are you just practicing|
|jeff@claw.clearpoint.com  | for one of those performances you do?"           |
|jeff@fang.clearpoint.com  |                          -- Lori Anderson        |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Moving a power panel
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 92 16:56:12 GMT

In article <3637@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>In article <Brt4qG.1AM@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com> wreck@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com (R. Cage) writes:
>|fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>|: I'd like to understand what the options are for the following situation:
>: 
>|:                       |-----------|--------------------------|
>|:                       |           |                          |
>|:                       |  future   |  house to be built       |
>|:                       |  garage   |  starting in 2 weeks     |
>|: ......................|...maybe..X|                          |
>|:                       |  in 2-3   |-------------|            |
>|:                       |   years   |             |            |
>|:                       |-----------|             |------------|
>
>|Why not this?
>
>|                       |-----------|--------------------------|
>|                       |           |                          |
>|                       |  future   |  house to be built       |
>|                       |  garage   |  starting in 2 weeks     |
>| ------------------    |   maybe   |                          |
>|                   |   |  in 2-3   |-X-----------|            |
>|                   |   |   years   | |           |            |
>|                   |   |-----------| |           |------------|
>|		   -------------------
>
>|Is there a problem with planning ahead?

>An even better suggestion for Fred - ask your electrical utility.
>Only your electrical utility knows for sure...

In his original posting Fred said that the utility company gave him no
choice. If I understood him correctly, they are going to put the meter
at location X in the top sketch and there isn't anything he can do about
it.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: henley@rtsg.mot.com (Aaron Henley)
Subject: Re: How do I get rid of Box Elder Beatles?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 12:01:14 GMT

jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack) writes:

>They are harmless to humans, living on the leaves of the Box Elder
>Maple tree (also known as an Ash Maple, there is a 70 ft. one in my
>front yard).  They nest in the cracks in the bark of trees or just
>about anywhere that is similar (they seem to like some rotting
>landscape timber in my front yard and the cedar shakes on my detached
>garage).  Ortho Seven in supposed to kill them.

I don't know that there is a way to get at there nest.  I've got a new
house with no trees (just grass).  Around October last year our house
and most of our neighbors had these things crawling all over their & our
siding.

We simply kill the ones on sight with a soap and water spray which will
do the job.  As I have small kids I don't like messin with the heavey duty
chemicals either.

Hope this helps.
-- 
Aaron Henley, Motorola Inc.        UUNET:uunet!motcid!henley
Cellular Infrastructure Division    UUCP:henley@mot.com
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What about alarm systems (was Burglars and dogs)
Date: 30 Jul 92 16:20:28 GMT
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 21693@hubcap.clemson.edu, hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:
>andy@SAIL.Stanford.EDU (Andy Freeman) writes:
>  
>  *And, what does that buy you?  You know that he's there; now what?
>  
>Sadly, this is all a dog will do for you some of the time (probably, 
>the most important times). 

All of which, unless you have Van Gogh's hanging in your foyer, is
rather beside the point.  The purpose of locks and cameras and dogs and
alarms, in short, all security, is not to alert you to the presence of
a thief.  It is not to catch the thief.  It is not to identify him, or
inflict injury upon him.

The purpose of home security is TO MAKE YOUR NEIGHBOR'S HOUSE A MORE
ATTRACTIVE TARGET THAN YOURS.  Dogs do this.  So do snakes.  So do
alarms, and cameras (functional or not), and "NRA Expert Marksman"
stickers in the window.  Digital keypads with flashing LEDs (functional
or not) help.  Neighborhood watch signs help (active programs are even
better).  Motion- or heat-activated floodlights are inexpensive, and
effective.  So is an answering machine WITHOUT a "we're not here"
message.

I just don't believe the vast majority of thieves out there are as
spohisticated as many people assume (or as the $2000, $150/month alarm
system salesmen would have you believe).  There are a very few, very
professional burglers.  There are thousands of crack-heads looking for
a VCR to hawk for $10.  The only way to stop the real pros is with
armed guards.  You can stop the idiots by bolting the doors and locking
all downstairs windows.  For the range of thieves in between, install a
little equipment and a lot of common sense.

One final note:  PLEASE, only buy a dog if you are a dog lover.  A dog
is a stupid investment solely for security, and the animal deserves
better than to be considered another intrusion detection system.  If
you buy a dog because you *want* one, and you're willing to spend the
time and effort that commitment, IMHO, demands, to train it, the
security comes for free.  If not, a motion detector triggering an
amplified tape recording of dogs is much cheaper, much kinder, easier
to housebreak, and very nearly as effective.


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Moving a power panel
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 23:48:36 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.203014.1800@col.hp.com> cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best) writes:
>Only one thought - why can't you put the meter where the line goes underground
>(i.e. at the street)?  Then could you leave the entrance panel where it is?

Whether this is legal or not - In general try to put the meter as close
to the biggest electrical appliance in the house (or vice-versa). You
always get a current drop (read "wasted power") due to the resistance in
the power cables. If this occurs between the street and the meter, the
power company pays for it (and spreads it around in their prices). If
it occurs after the meter, you pay for it.

In the posted situation, I'd plan on putting the garage somewhere else.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Better" is the enemy of "Good enough".
                    |                     Russian proverb.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: d3a132@pnl.gov (Carl P Baker)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Metal roofs
Date: 24 Jul 92 16:19:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: oracle.1992Jul24.161916.10352
Reply-To: d3a132@pnl.gov
Organization: Battelle Pacific Northwest Laboratories

In article 5198@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com, marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks) writes:
>
>In article <1992Jul23.194828.2875@stsci.edu>, davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg) writes...
>>1. What are the advantages and disadvantages of metal roofs?
>Very noisy when it rains (or hails).
But they shed snow really well (I think that is why they are
often seen on mountain cabins).  I suspect that if your attic
is well insulated, you don't notice the noise too much (speculation).

Carl P Baker
cp_baker@pnl.gov
509-375-2724

Disclaimer: Any opinions expressed here are not necessarily
those of anyone in particular. Further, my employer is not
responsible for any opinions herein, or for any...(humorous
slam of employer deleted in the interests of)...
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cleaning old water lines
Date: 29 Jul 92 04:35:37 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <zwlmy-p@lynx.unm.edu> pkrause@triton.unm.edu (Paul Krause CIRT) writes:
>I own a house built in the late 50's with iron pipe and built over a 
>slab.  (typical for much of albuquerque).  I am beginning to get significant
>pressure loss inside the house.  When the front sprinklers run there is
>little pressure at the kitchen sink for example.  Any suggestions for 
>dealing with this short of digging under the house and replacing all the 
>pipe.  I guess I am hoping for something like Roto-rooter for water
>lines.

Has this actually changed noticably over time, or has this always been
the case?  In-ground sprinklers take a *lot* of water, and tend
to reduce pressure everywhere else.  Most houses aren't designed to
have the plumbing to provide full pressure to more than one fixture
simultaneously.  Especially not properly installed sprinkler systems.

Or could this be a reduction in water pressure in Albuquerque?

There really isn't a lot you can do to remove iron scale from pipes.
Part of the problem is that the scale indicates that the pipe is somewhat
weakened.  Physically scraping the insides (presuming that you could
do it at all) is just as likely to puncture the pipe.

If you dug out access to the pipe near the street, and then set
up a closed loop and pumped weak acid, you could probably remove
the crud.  At the same time, you'd probably eat out the pipe walls.

A water softener would also probably tend to clean out the pipes downstream
of it, but again, with significant rust deposits, this is also likely
to finish the job of eating holes in the pipe.

Iron pipe has a distinct lifetime.  Apartment buildings in Toronto
with iron pipe from the 50's are having to go thru the expensive
job of replacing it all.

Your best bet is to keep your fingers crossed that it doesn't
rupture, and set up a savings fund for replacing it with copper
or plastic.  You could probably reroute it to avoid most of the
slab, and just abandon the old iron pipe.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: "J. Kubley" <kubley@kubley.opt.indiana.edu>
Subject: DIY drywall installation ..
Reply-To: kubley@kubley.opt.indiana.edu
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 19:06:27 GMT

Having installed drywall several times during my lifetime I have not found it
to be any more difficult than any other construction practice.  The times I
have seen a poor job result have inevitably caused by the DIY'er trying to
work at the same speed that a pro achieves (never possible), doing too few
cover coats, (3 is the absolute minimum), using the wrong tools (blades too
small for the task), or failing to remove debris and/or drips and splatters
from previous coats.

Drywall is like any other trade; it takes years to become truly proficient at
it.  Pros use tools and tricks that DIY'ers have no business trying.  The best
advice a DIY'er can use on drywall is to take your time and spend the money
on the right tools!  Don't try using a 6" taping knife for your finish coat;
it'll *never* work!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
  internet:  kubley@kubley.opt.indiana.edu      AMPRNET:   [44.48.0.1]
    OR       kubley@ucs.indiana.edu             ka9fjs@ka9fjs.ampr.org
  bitnet:    kubley@iubacs                      Home BBS:  K9IU

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: How do I sand inside of corners?
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 15:48:35 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.143548.19255@macc.wisc.edu> nmrdb@vms.macc.wisc.edu (BEVERLY SEAVEY) writes:
>I'm trying to refinish window frames. How do I sand in the elbows/corners?
>Is there something like a wire brush that will get in there? Wrapping
>sand paper around something narrow is the best I have come up with,
>and it's not very good.

Almost enough to make you call that window salesperson, ain't it?

I use a utility knife. I use it sideways in a scraping motion to get
as much as I can with that. I then finish off with medium garnet paper,
folded over once for stiffness. I sand with the folded edge.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If train stations are where trains stop, 
                    | what are work stations?
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: r1156c@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Michael R. Dow)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Tile or Linoleum?
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:31:20 GMT
Reply-To: r1156c@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Michael R. Dow)
Organization: David Mitchell & Associates - Austin


    I've decided to tile the bathroom floors (and possibly tile/re-tile the 
walls) in my recently-purchased house.  The floors are currently a 'brick 
look-alike' linoleum of poor quality which both my wife and I hate. (Not to 
mention we hate the brown carpet that is throughout the house, too).

	Anyway, the kitchen and entry-way floors are the same linoleum as above.  
We are going to replace it in any event, but I don't know which would be the 
best to use: Tile or Linoleum?

	I'm aware of cost differential, and I'd go for a premium grade linoleum 
if that eventually becomes the choice...

	Ideas?  Suggestions?

Michael R. Dow
From: erwinrd@sumax.seattleu.edu (Richard D. Erwin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Earthquakes and Bookshelves
Date: 24 Jul 92 03:01:40 GMT
Organization: Seattle University, Seattle WA

This is mostly for you folks in California...

Finally deciding to listen to the premonitions of The Big One hitting Western 
Washington one fine day, I've decided to start earthquake-proofing my house as
best I can.  

Any general tips on the topic are appreciated, but one nagging problem is that
of books.  My wife and I have a huge pile of them, and also have the shelves  
that go with having lots of them.  They're primarily of the "oak warehouse"
variety, about six feet tall and 10 inches wide.

My best guess is to use butterfly bolts and an L-shaped backet with holes on
both sides.  Bolt one to the side, and the other to the inside back of the
bookshelf, simultaneously going through the wall on the second.  

Anyone who has better ideas than mine are welcome to email to my address.

Thanks in Advance,
Rich Erwin
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Seeking Advice: Fleas!!!
Date: 21 Jul 92 11:42:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: terminat.1992Jul21.114215.13040
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research

In article <4545@balrog.ctron.com> tavares@ctron.com writes:
>The problem is that fleas lay eggs. Most bombs and such do not
>kill the eggs. 

Bombs don't KILL the eggs, but if you buy a bomb with "Precor" (also known
as methoprene), it will deal with the problem.  The Precor is an insect growth
regulator that stops the larval fleas from ever becoming adults, and they
eventually die without ever biting anything.

The other thing about getting rid of fleas is vacuum vacuum vacuum.  Floors,
furniture, etc, etc (and make sure that the fleas can't just come right back
out of the vacuum -- remove the bag (outdoors) and seal it into a plastic
garbage bag, or something of the sort).
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg)
Subject: Re: Lead Based Paints
Reply-To: davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg)
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 19:15:07 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.175840.446@cs.ucla.edu>, waldorf@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jerry Waldorf) writes:

|>How does one tell if the paint on the house is lead based?

There are 2 ways.  You can send teaspoon-sized samples of the paint in your house to
a lab that checks for lead paint.  They will tell you if it is above the safe limits.  Alternatively,
some labs send people to your house with an X-ray machine and they will determine the 
amount of lead in your wall paint, trim paint, etc.  The first method is more accurate, but more
costly (at $25-50/sample, the cost adds up quickly).  Neither method will tell you if the outer
coat is lead paint.  If you do not plan any construction, the outer coat is all that counts.

There is a product that is great for lead abatement called "Peel Away 1."  It was rated as the
best paint stripper by Consumer Reports Magazine.  They did not comment on its lead abatement
qualities, however.  You can call Dumond Chemical at (212)869-6350 for more information.
Be careful to follow the directions!

|>At what time was lead removed from paints used on houses?

I believe that they haven't used lead paint in the last 30 years.  However, I read that
it could have been used as recent as 1978.

David
From: rbg@otter.hpl.hp.com (Roger Gimson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Washing machines
Date: 31 Jul 92 17:11:37 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.

Thanks to those people who sent me email.

We are now aware of the low rating given White Westinghouse for reliability
by Consumers' Reports - that at least crosses them off our list of potential
machines.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house