HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [A] spark plug inserts: what's the best kind ?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 17:36:05 GMT

In article <C010FK.2vA@inews.Intel.COM>, crichmon@sedona.intel.com (Chris Richmond) writes:
>
>In article <jgladu-291292080539@128.249.27.63>, jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu)) writes:
>> In article <29DEC199200245147@venus.tamu.edu>, mthomas@venus.tamu.edu (Mark
>> Thomas) wrote:
>> 
>> [lots of good advice deleted]
>> 
>> > If you're sure you don't want to remove the heads, after tapping
>> > and reaming the hole and again after installing the inserts,
>> > crank the engine for a while with the coil-distributer cable
>> > disconnected and with the spark plug out, to try to blow out any
>> > metal particles from the cylinder.
>
>I had a spark plug insert installed in my old 40hp motor one time.  I the
>town I grew up in, was this older german guy that worked on VWs.  What he
>did was cover the tap in axle grease before tapping.  That way, the grease
>would catch all the metal chips.  Any grease left in the cylinder would be
>burned out.  As a  side note, in the carb, is an exposed U shaped tube where
>the accelerator pump sprays gas down the throat.  Well, this thing 'fell out'
>in my sisters bug, and my solution was to remove the engine and head to remove
>it.  When I told Tony, he said that the tube was soft copper or brass and I
>should have just rev'd the motor with the thing inside and let the motor chew
>it up and send it out the exhaust.  I never really liked that piece of advice
>much.  I really miss having Tony around.  He was one of those mechanics that
>would let you watch, teach you stuff, do minor things for nothing, etc.

Chris,

The old man was right. The same thing happened to me and my 67 Ghia.
A few years later I had to rebuild the motor, and there were a few
dings in the head and the piston where the accellerator pump tube
bumped around.

Ric


>
>Chris
>-- 
> Chris Richmond         |     Internet: crichmon@sedona.intel.com
> Intel, Corp. C3-21     |     Phone: (602)-554-8827
> 5000 W. Chandler Blvd. |     This crazy is a world place. 
> Chandler, AZ  85226    |     My think losing I'm mind.
> 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tjong@nynexst.com (Jung Tjong)
Subject: How is 84 Vanagon ?
Reply-To: tjong@nynexst.com
Organization: NYNEX Science & Technology, Inc
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 00:24:08 GMT

A friend of mine just bought an 84 Vanagon GL w/ a 2.0 liter water-cooled engine,
semi-camper edition.  He'd like to hear any comments (good or bad) about the car.  

Thanks in advance,

Jung
NYNEX Science & Technology Inc
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [W] Snow tires vs. All-season radials
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 20:14:03 GMT

In article <ILH.92Dec23152308@polar.lcs.mit.edu>, ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:

>Sure, a good winter tire will maximize your performance in snow.  The
>trouble is, in many parts of the country (ie., Boston), most of the
>winter actually has clear roads.  I don't believe a winter (snow) tire
>will maximize performance on clear winter roads.  I would tend to
>think that an all-season tire would perform better.  Is that true?  By
>choosing a winter (snow) tire, you're sacrificing performance during
>most of the winter and gaining performance when it is actually snowy
>and slushy.  I don't think it is as cut-and-dry as you make it sound.
>It really depends on how often the roads are clear.
>
>On clear winter roads (cold, say 15 degrees F) would an all-season
>outperform a summer tire due to softer compound?
>
>--
>
>                              
Lee, I live 50 miles south of Boston on the seacoast, and yes, we
don't have much snow on the ground. But when we do, its nice to
know that I can get in and drive without having to worry. As far
as handling, I drive on Hakkapelittas, and their charicteristics
are as close as one can get for an all-season tire on the dry, as
they have a nice compound. They are also great for rallying.

As far as dry weather, I will stick with Bridgestone RE71s during
the rest of the year.

Ric

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS)
Subject: Re: '72 vw beetle info needed...
Summary: Info  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 29 Dec 92 02:24:49 GMT

In article <1992Dec24.005802.158@midway.uchicago.edu>, newark@befvax.uchicago.edu                                  writes...
>I just acquired (by accident) a '72 vw bug (along with my '64 corvair convert, 
>this means I'll never have to buy anti-freeze again) and I had a few questions

I have a 71' bug and I assume that these things are the same.

>2) the car seems to have a rear window defroster, but I can't seem to find 
>   the switch for it... does anyone know anthing about these?  Is it an 
>   aftermarket product or were they an option and does anyone know how 
>   to use it?

Look under the dashboard around your left knee. There should be a switch
there (thisw doesn't mean it will work).
> 
>3) there is a little red light/button next to the fan switch which lights 
>   up when pressed.  It is marked with a letter B.... The light goes out 
>   when it is released... what is this for?  I've pressed it and nothing 
>   seems to have happened.

I believe that it is a battery tester.
> 
>4) the car handles very badly at 50+ mph.  It rattles something terrible and
>   is very hard to keep from drifting around...Is this just how they handle
>   or will it clear up when I get new tires and a front end alignment and 
>   possibly new struts?

Mine rattles alot eventhough its alignment is fine. It shouldn't drift
though.
> 
>5) how do you use the windshield wiper fluid?  I know about the hose to the
>   spare tire (what a great idea) but where is the button for it.  My wind-
>   shield wiper knob is missing the center and I assume you probably pressed
>   it to activate the fluid... Is this right?

That's it. When working, you depress the center of the wiper knob for fluid.
> 
>Thanks in Advance
>Tom Newark
> 
>#@ Tom Newark    System Manager/Programmer                             @#
>@# Department of Molecular Genetics and Cell Biology                   #@
>#@ University of Chicago  --  newark@befvax.uchicago.edu               @#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gjh@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Galen J. Hekhuis)
Subject: Re: Brake question
Keywords: 71' super beetle
Organization: University of Virginia Health Sciences Center
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 04:33:45 GMT

In article <1992Dec31.041027.22331@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> fod@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov (Frank O'Donnell) writes:
}garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) writes:
}
}>	I have what should be a simple question <heh>. What exactly
}>does it mean when you have to pump your brakes twice to get them to work
}>properly? BTW, this question is in reference to drum brakes. 
}
}Usually it means either the brake fluid is low and
}you should top up the reservoir; or there is air in the
}system and you should bleed the brakes.  If this doesn't
}fix it, there may be a weak spring in the master cylinder,
}and the master cylinder should be rebuilt or replaced.

In my experience the exact symptoms you describe are more
indicative of brake adjustment than anything else.  If you
get a hard pedal after two pumps you probably need a brake
adjustment rather badly.  You won't feel a low reservoir in
your pedal -- unless it is real low, out, to be precise.
I doubt bleeding the brakes would help, and I doubt that
you have a problem with the master cylinder.  

--
       hang gliding mailing list: hang-gliding-request@virginia.edu 
     Galen Hekhuis  UVa Health Sci Ctr (804)982-1646 gjh@virginia.edu
                  Illiterate?  Write for FREE help...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@eastrg2.cray.com (Robert James Dilmore)
Subject: Re: [W] Installing an Oil Pressure Gauge on a 16v engine
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 30 Dec 92 09:04:55 CST

In article <7716@dove.nist.gov>, keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
|> 
|> Hi,
|> 
|> Has anyone out there installed a VDO (electrical) Oil Pressure gauge/
|> sender on a VW 16v engine, while retaining the idiot light/buzzer?
|> 
|>  
|> On most water cooled VW's one of the switches (low pressure)
|> is located high on the engine block, while the other switch (high
|> pressure) is mounted on on the oil filter flange.
|> 
|> On 16v engines both oil pressure switches are located on the oil filter
|> flange.  My question is, which switch do i replace? How can i tell which
|> is the "high pressure" and which is the "low pressure"? Does it matter?
|> 
|> Thanks,
|> 
|>                                                   .  
    Hello Larry,

     The brown one is the 0.3 bar (4.4 psi) switch
     The white one is the 1.8 bar (26. psi) switch

    The brown one should be closer to the engine block.


Robert Dilmore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: [W] 1992 Golfs seem too high revving!  Why?
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 22:14:14 GMT

>>> On both Golfs, when running at about 60 MPH, the engine is doing about
>>> 3,000 RPM.  

eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
> i think that the lowering of the final drive ratio did not happen at the
> same time as the power increase.. so if i'm not mistaken there is a
> one or two year model range where the golfs had high gearing and peaky
> engines.

The gearing was changed for the 1990 model year.  My 1989 Jetta drove like
a slug, thanks to a peaky engine (with poor bottom-end torque) and tall
gearing.  My sister-in-law's 1990 model drives much better, despite an
identical engine.

> i much prefer the low gearing, btw.  makes the car more fun, if less
> quiet.

I'd love to have the same 1st through 4th gears but with a tall 5th for
extended cruising at 140 km/h ...  :)  That 16V exhaust gets LOUD on the
highway!

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: wolfsond@cse.fau.edu (Dan MC^2 Wolfson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '91 Passat Front End Problem
Date: 26 Dec 92 05:38:56 GMT
Organization: Florida Atlantic University, Boca Raton, FL, USA

In article <jhughes.4@rosebud.ub.com> jhughes@rosebud.ub.com (Jeff Hughes) writes:
>I have a question for any Passat owners.  I have a 1991 Passat and my 
>steering column seems to make a "clunking noise" when I back out of a 
>driveway or turn slowly through a parking lot.  I have had the car to 2 
>different dealerships at least 5 times and they can't find the problem.  Has 
>anyone had a similar problem?  If so, what was the resolution?  The car 
>seems to work fine otherwise.


Same problem on my Scirocco.  I think it may be the lower stress bar in my
case though... 

Anyone?

-- 
Dan Wolfson (wolfsond@cse.fau.edu)

"We'll always be remembered..... We'll always be dismembered."
						--Front 242
From: michaelb@compnews.co.uk (Michael Burton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 5 Pot engine
Date: 30 Dec 92 14:55:45 GMT
Organization: Computer Newspaper Services, Howden, UK.
NNTP-Posting-Host: annatto.compnews.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

Having read about the bullet proof 5 cylinder engine that Audi produce, I must 
say that my Audi Coupe 2ltr had done nearly 110000 miles and it is still as sweet as a nut.
I do give it some hammer, but it has a fully VAG service history, and I always 
let it warm up before giving it any hammer.
It should be good for at least 200000 miles, most likely more, but I will not 
have the car then as I am saving up for a Audi Coupe Quattro Turbo. 
The turbo coupe is the closest relative to the Audi rally car of the past which
is the one which produced over 600 bhp out of a 2.2 ltr engine.
I just cant wait.

--
          Buy an AUDI.......you know it makes sense!!!!!
	  There is NO COMPROMISE!!! (Well maybe a BMW)!
	  From Michael Burton.      (AN AUDI OWNERR
	  E-mail michaelb@compnews.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mag@minnie.nic.kingston.ibm.com (Michael Gray)
Subject: Re: [w] Dashboard Lights
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 13:42:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: IBM Corp., Kingston NY

OOps!!! Just noticed, that I mis-read you note a little.  The prior post was for an '84 GTI.

For your cars, it's very similar.

You'll still need to remove the bezel.. 

The screws are located behind the headlamp switch and behind the dummy switches to the right
of the instrument panel.  There are also three screws behind the heater control unit and two more
above the instrument panel.

You'll also have to disconnect all the switches.

Everything else is pretty much the same.

Sorry....
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [W] Snow tires vs. All-season radials
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:57:12 GMT

In article <Dec22.215347.21128@engr.washington.edu>, eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:

Lots of stuff deleted......


>i recently drove a 92 golf that had continental all-seasons.  even
>drove it in the snow.  it was quite good, but it is no snow tire.  i
>still prefer to have separate sets of snows and summer tires because i
>think that all-seasons are too much of a compromise.
>
>

All season tires are for what I would consider the 80th percentile
of drivers...all they want to do is put gas in....turn the key
and drive off...maybe change the oil once or twice a year. As 
Elliot said, they are too much of a compromise.

The demands of a tire for summer use are different than those
for snow use. Just one for instance, the rubber is softer on
most snows vs summer tires, ok...two for instances, look at
the tread blocks on a snow vs. the tread patern on a summer
tire. With an all season tire you get a mediocre tire for
summer driving and a mediocre tire for winter.

I admit, I am looking for 100% performance from my tires, maximum
grip and traction in the summer as well as winter...you can't get
that from an all season tire.

If you are looking for a real good winter tire try the Nokia
Hakkapelittas.

Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Mike.Oniffrey@launchpad.unc.edu (Mike Oniffrey)
Subject: Re: Help needed with my 72 camper van
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 06:51:33 GMT

In article <9212290103.AA28559@hood.pcx.ncd.com> jcb@hood (Jim Becker) writes:

	Subject: Help needed with my 72 camper van

[Quoting article from Diane]

	...Anyway, we pull  up  to  a  gas  station, fill  up  (5  minutes  max,
	everything turned off), get in, and the car doesn't  start.   The  oil
	and   gen  lights  come  on,  but  the  starter  motor  doesn't  turn.
	Doesn't  click  or  cluck  or anything.  Complete silence...
	Back home, we successfully restarted the  car  10  minutes  after
	stopping it.   What happened here?  Any hints?

[Jim writes]

	...when you are on a long trip the engine/transmission/starter get
	hot to the point where the starter will not function until it cools
	down.

	the solution is a new starter!


In Muir's <Idiot> repair guide, he mentions that as starters age, they
will build up internal corrosion which make them progressively less
cooperative, when voltage is applied, to turning over an engine.  One
short-term solution is to crawl under the vehicle with a BEEG mallet and
give the starter housing a good whack.  This will shake loose a lot of the
corrosion, and will buy you another 200-300 miles.  Muir goes on to say
that if you are too lazy or broke to do a starter swap, you can get away
with this technique for quite a while. 

I coaxed thousands of extra miles out of the starters on my 77 bus and 80
Vanagon with this method...

onif

Onif of UNC-TV, Research Triangle Park, NC, USA, can be reached at:
mike.oniffrey@launchpad.unc.edu
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '89 Audi Quattro price needed
Date: 28 Dec 1992 21:51:07 GMT
Organization: clearer than blir
NNTP-Posting-Host: stalfos.engr.washington.edu

In article <1992Dec28.144320.3107@peanut> jimk@bvc.edu writes:
>What is a reasonable price to pay for an '89 Audi Quattro 4-dr, w/41,000 
>miles, leather seats, sunroof. 

you have to be more specific.  from your description it can be any one
of 4 different models with very different prices and very different
specifications.  there is 80 (but i doubt these come with leather
seats), 90,100,200 quattro models.

1989 200Q models go for about $16K around here and IMO the best value
for money car in that range.


eliot
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (John F Nielsen)
Subject: Re: toyota trucks
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 21:46:49 GMT


The only way to seriously compare prices is to check Invoice prices.
Those prices on the sticker are totally bogus. 

I really doubt they sell for that much.

john
-- 
John Nielsen   MAGNUS Consultant            ______   ______   __  __	
jnielsen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu         /\  __ \ /\  ___\ /\ \/\ \
                                           \ \ \/\ \\ \___  \\ \ \_\ \
  Back off man, I'm a Scientist!            \ \_____\\/\_____\\ \_____\
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: For the Record: Audi versus the press
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: na 
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:24:48 GMT

In <1992Dec23.005107.12170@adobe.com> ayers@adobe.com (Robert Ayers) writes:

>For the record: the reason that the Audi's experienced "sudden
>acceleration" was that the drivers shifted the auto into drive 
>while holding down the accelerator with their right foot.

>After much media attention, that was the official verdict of the 
>NHSA (or whatever the acronym is for the US gvmt agency).

>Sixty Minutes lied about the Audi.  They put on deliberately faked 
>"test" footage.  In fact, they got caught.  But so what?  Sixty
>Minutes is produced by the ABC *entertainment* division.  What

Gee, you mean CBS sold 60 Minutes?

>counts are ratings.  The "expose" got them the ratings.  They
>also created the great Alar scare; that got them good ratings too.

>"Believe nothing of what you read and only half of what you see"
>Mark Twain

>Bob

Bob
From: cscc1s@menudo.uh.edu (Arthur K. S. Yeo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: LH test-drive results (by a buyer)
Date: 30 Dec 92 01:12:29 GMT
Organization: /refritos/cscc1s/.organization
NNTP-Posting-Host: menudo.uh.edu
In-reply-to: esl_manager@gimme.uh.edu's message of 29 Dec 1992 22:29:56 GMT


BTW, Robert B. Reiche is not the future Secretary of Commerce but the future
Secretary of Labor. Just thought you might want to know.

--
Concerned.
From: dmatthews@uap.umd.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: CAMRY V6 performance numbers
Date: 23 Dec 92 13:51:19 GMT
Reply-To: dmatthews@uap.umd.edu
Distribution: usa
Organization: IPST, U. of Maryland, College Park

In article <1992Dec22.213742.29821@devildog.att.com>, root@acpy01.att.com (System Administrator(CXNIXCN1)) writes:
>Here is my story.
>I am looking for a solid car with some "sport sedan" characteristics.
>
>The requirements are:
>1. Reliability (got to get to work every day)
>2. 6 cyl
>3. Comfort (good front seats)
>4. Solid construction (assembly quality)
>5. Price ( around $20.000)
>
>So far CAMRY LE V6 looks like the best value for the money.

...

How about the new Chrysler Corp. LH cars, Dodge Intrepid, Eagle Vision,
Chrysler Concorde?


Dr. David L. Matthews, IPST, Univ. of Maryland, College Park MD 20742-2431 
Telephone  (301)405-4830	Internet   dmatthews@uap.umd.edu
FAX 	   (301)314-9363	NSI/SPAN   UMDUAP::DMATTHEWS
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: Do SPOILERS Really Work???
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: world 
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:42:52 GMT

In <1h4gu1INN1it@armory.centerline.com> jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost) writes:

>choy@skorpio.usask.ca (I am a terminator.) writes:
>>In article <1992Dec13.225328.14446@nntp.hut.fi>, k33074s@kaira.hut.fi (Micke Bergman) writes:
>>What do spoilers do to fuel economy? On my flight simulator, I can put on
>>spoilers to slow my plane down. I expect dragging a spoiler around would
>>slow a car down.

>On a plane spoilers are used to increase drag and lift dramatically.
				^^^^^^^^^	   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sorry to be picky, but on aircraft spoilers decrease lift dramatically.
If you would like a demonstration fly Swissair's 747 flight into
Geneva (I wondered how he was going to get that big momma into that
airport). Spoilers are used inflight to 'dramatically' drop a planes
altitude without changing its attitude. Sure was a neat bit of flying!

>This is very useful both for slowing down and for operating at low
>velocities -- desirable capabilities in an airplane.

>On a car spoilers have two possible purposes (other than aesthetics):
>1) Break up airflow around the back of the car to reduce drag and
>possibly to reduce high-speed lift; and 2) provide downforce (similar
>to what they do in a plane but to a much smaller degree).

>From talk on this group I suspect that most cars' spoilers are used to
>break up airflow rather than to provide downforce.  They usually
>aren't big enough to have much of an effect on downforce.

>The goal of the spoiler in each case is different so you get different
>results.

>jim frost
>jimf@centerline.com

Bob
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: GM Radios (was Re: Review 92-93 grand-am)
Date: 21 Dec 1992 18:37:44 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

jwg@sedv1.acd.com ( Jim Grey) writes:
>In article <mills.724838065@dialup.athena.lkg.dec.com> mills@athena.lkg.dec.com (George Mills) writes:
><lots of deletia>
>>Stock AM/FM cassette very cheap option and really sounds great for stock radio.
[...]
>>    It took a month to figure out how to get the GM radio to scan
>>    (Push seek up and down at same time, NOT in OWNERS MANUAL).

>I was disappointed that I had what I thought was only four AM and four FM
>presets.  Then my friend explained to me that his Grand Am owner's manual
>explained that pressing any two neighboring buttons at the same time was a
>preset as well.  So I actually have *seven* presets.  My owner's manual
>says nothing about it.

My owner's manual doesn't mention that there two "FM" bands selectable
with the AM/FM button -- giving you twelve FM presets rather than six.
It was also very confusing the first time I hit the AM/FM selector by
mistake, switching from FM1 (where I have the buttons set to local
stations) to FM2 (which are all unset).

I have to agree that the Delco AM/FM cassette that I have was a good
deal.  It sounds nice and gets great FM reception besides being a
low-theft item.  The only major complaint I have with it is that the
clock looses about a minute a month.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos