HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Judson West <jwest@r3vm.dsd.trw.com>
Subject: Re: What's up with that...
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A76F4A72750149F5@jwest.dsd.trw.com>
X-Xxdate: Tue, 5 Jan 93 22:23:46 GMT
Organization: TRW Space & Electronics Group
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 22:23:50 GMT

In article <2884203EC400.2.0@sscl.uwo.ca> , 2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca
writes:
>I've had my jetta for a while, an now, in the style of Cliff Claven I 
>ask...
>
>
>Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?  What's up
with 
>that?  While I enjoy being able to sing to the radio all of the way
up the 
>front steps and into my house, I hate coming out to the car in the
morning 
>to find that the tape has auto-reversed itself for twelve hours.
>

Though there are many fine responses to this question, no one has
offered an explanation. Until now..... I'm sure it has always been
that way since the first air-cooled models hit the streets. And to be
sure, not a dime or mark was spent unless it had to be. Since it costs
more money to have an ACC portion to the ignition switch, they didn't
make it as long as all you had to do is wire the radio to a constantly
hot source. Tradition explains the rest. VW is not a company that
follows the pack.

>
>The light in my trunk... what's up with it?  At first I didn't even
think 
>that there was a light.  Then I found the light and thought the bulb
was 
>burned out so I tested the bulb.  The bulb worked and I was really
confused 
>but luckily, keeping the radio lesson in mind I decided to try
something 
>really stupid... sure enough it worked.  The trunk light only works
while 
>the headlights are on.  Terrific thinking that you only need a light
when it 
>is dark (so the headlights) but who leaves their lights on as the get
stuff 
>out of the trunk.  Even stupider is the fact that whenever the lights
are on 
>the light in the trunk is on, regardless of whether the trunk is open
or 
>not.  Crazy.

The trunk light in my '90 Passat and '91 Vanagon work regardless of
the mode of the headlights.

As long as we're on the subject.... '91 Vanagon in 49 states and '90
Vanagon in California. What's up with that?? Several dealers said that
it had something to do with the emissions requirements for '91 cars in
California. VW would not modify the engine to meet the requirements
for '91 cars in California so they marketed it as a '90. Anyone
confirm this?

Thanks.
---------------------------
Judson West
Section Head
IBM Operating Systems
TRW Space & Electronics Group
---------------------------
From: scm80@diag.amdahl.com (Steve Meyer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Need Bug mechanic in San Francisco
Keywords: air bug beetle
Date: 8 Jan 93 23:14:17 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation

I need help!  Could someone please recommend a good air-cooled VW
mechanic in or around San Francisco.  My Bug and I would greatly
appreciate it.

Thanks,
Steve
From: eellis@cse.lbl.gov (Eric Ellis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] Poor fuel mileage
Date: 13 Jan 1993 03:50:29 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
Reply-To: eellis@cse.lbl.gov (Eric Ellis)
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.112.59

Hello.  I have a 1980 Rabbit convertible (1.6 fuel injection with Oxygen
sensor).  Recently I have been getting about 20 MPG highway which is 
quite a drop in gas mileage.  I was told that it might be the 
oxygen sensor, but I think it could also be that the mixture has
slipped somehow.  I have the Bentley manual which explains how to
test to determine what's causing the problem, but unfortunately, I
don't have a handy exhaust analyzer.  Does anyone know of any
other methods to determine if the OXS is bad or what could be
causing my fuel problems?  BTW the car has 183,000 miles on it and
I'm not sure when or if the OXS sensor was last changed.  Also, if
it is indeed the sensor, just replacing it myself would be cheaper
than any estimate I could get for diagnosing the problem.

A related question about the new oxygenated gas:  this may have been
discussed already, but I am curious as to how the gas cuts down on
CO emissions.  According to my manual, the oxygen sensor regulates
CO level and keeps it withing a narrow range by adjusting the fuel
mixture to compensate for changes.  If this is true, how can the 
CO level be reduced?  Is the oxygen sensor being tricked?

Eric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS)
Subject: Re: Need Bug mechanic in San Francisco
Summary: My experience  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: air bug beetle
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:55:13 GMT

In article <27Jn027k31BW01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, scm80@diag.amdahl.com (Steve Meyer)                         writes...
>I need help!  Could someone please recommend a good air-cooled VW
>mechanic in or around San Francisco.  My Bug and I would greatly
>appreciate it.

I've tried a few places in in and around the City, and I can tell you that
most places are experienced with air-cooled Vdubs (you probably have noticed
the large quantity of them around). The best places I've seen are Tassi's
in Colma, and the Bug and Hare, downtown. Both places are busy, but they
both seem to know what they are doing.
	Although I've heard that there are good places in Berkeley, I've 
been ripped off by a few there. So be carefull. The best advice I can give
is to learn how to work on it yourself.
> 
>Thanks,
>Steve

-Garrett
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: vasu@owlnet.rice.edu (Srinivas Veerapaneni)
Subject: Re: 84 Rabbit:vibrates&smokes:Epilogue
Organization: Rice University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:54:46 GMT

Sometime ago i have posted that my 84 Rabbit L(2dr, hatch back, gas, ~93k miles)
used tovibrate at about 60 mph and also, would smoke a LOT whenever i start the car.
it does not smoke while driving. several people have given suggestions and
i guess i got the problem fixed. here is what happened:

1. the vibrations disappeared almost completely when i got the wheels balanced.

2. regarding the smoke, the mechanic suggested that it would be very expensive
to fix it and advised me to let it burn oil. his diagnosis, as some netters
suggested, was that  either the valve seals or oil seals leak when the engine
is off and when i start the car, the oil that has leaked onto the piston head
burns and after that the pressure inside would prevent any further oil leak.
his opinion was that it is not worth changing these seals.

he checked the compression and found that one cylinder is bad (~80 psi).
the rest 3 were kicking fine (~120-125psi). so i suggested that he do the
valve adjustment. i bought this car 2 months ago and i don't know when the cylinders
were adjusted last. i thoght it could be a tight cylinder. but unfortunately
that was not the case. the compression remained the same even after the
valve adjustment.  but something else happened. my car stopped (!!)
smoking after that. i don't know what helped. was it valve adjustment or something
else the mechanic fiddled with while doing the compression test and valve 
adjustment? anyway, i am happy that it does not smoke anymore. previously, it used
to be quite embarassing whenever i start the car in a parking lot.

the problem with one bad cylinder is not that bad. it is quite tolerable. :-))
			**********

now i have some questions:

1. what do you think of these engine additives, esp. slick50 and engine flushes?
2. i have been thinking of shifting to valvoline 20w/50 engine oil (race car formula)
the price is almost same as 10w/40. is it o.k? (i live in houston and very
very rarely does it freeze here. the lowest T will be about 40 degrees F)
3. can i drive reasonably long distances with only 3 good cylinders?
-- 
vasu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: huff@hercules.rtp.dg.com (Jerry Huff)
Subject: Re: Changing the brake fluid....?
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 16:07:06 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC


As I understand it, brake fluid can absorb moisture overtime and gum up the caliper thus causing the piston in the caliper to stick and that's bad.  It happened on my 85 Golf after five years of non-brake fluid changing service.  I would recommend doing it at least every three years.

Jerry Huff
huff@dg-rtp.dg.com
From: envrej@epb10.lbl.gov (Richard Jansky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Change Coolant in Vanagon
Date: 6 Jan 1993 17:51:06 GMT
Organization: lbl
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.12.122


One and a half years ago I got my engine rebuilt. Over the holidays I
replaced the thermostat and lost thereby about 1.5 gallons of coolant.
The owner's as well as the factory manual say the coolant must be
*phosphate-free*. I called up the shop. They know about it, use normal
coolant with phosphate and say it doesn't matter.

a) Is the shop's answer true?

b) Is there any trick to drain and refill the engine with correct coolant?
   The shop claims one has to have the equipment.

Thanks in advance for your response

Richard

-- 
.----------------------------------------------------------------------.
. Richard Jansky                            INTERNET  rejansky@lbl.gov .
. Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory              Phone     (510) 486-4081   .
. Energy Performance of Buildings Group     FAX       (510) 486-6658   .
. MS 90-3074                                                           .
. Berkeley, CA 94720                                                   .
.----------------------------------------------------------------------.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS)
Subject: Re: [A] '71 Super has CO trouble
Summary: heater blows Carbon Monoxide
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: Grommets, engine compartment seal, pre-heated air hose
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 4 Jan 93 22:39:10 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.182324.5034@zia.aoc.nrao.edu>, troberts@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Timothy Roberts)                 writes...
>Hey, Folks!
>	I have the joy of breathing Carbon Monoxide everytime I drive
>my '71 Super Bug.  My heater boxes are brand new.  My engine is

>Questions:
>1) The pre-heated air hose slips onto the oil-bath air cleaner
>housing, goes through the tin rear engine cover and goes WHERE?  I
>can't find a place to attach the other end.

A mechanic told me its goes to something called the "oven." I have no 
idea what it is, and how it works, because I am missing mine as well.

>-Tim
>
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:42:58 GMT
Organization: Lanman Hill, Norwich CT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

Now that We've gone through the Air Vs Water War, 
let me open up another can of worms....

How do people feel about Carburators vs. Fuel Injection?  I'm trying to make an
informed decision on the merits and flaws of each...

As I understand it, FI is (or can be) more efficient, stays in tune, and is
generally dependable in new cars...

But in old VWs the FI parts are $$$ and the parts can't be repaired, they have
to be replaced...

All the blasted wires and sensors seem like a lot of things to go wrong...

Can a Carb - Engine be tuned up to match a FI engine?

Which is better, High Tech, or Low Tech?

Jim Baranski
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill)
Subject: Re: Learn to properly use your brakes (LOOOONG)
Organization: Telecom Australia Research Laboratories
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 06:52:25 GMT

In article <C0M7Ex.JsD@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>
>On to the argument that there is no harm to the engine/drivetrain
>by downshifting to augment braking. If you believe this, I have
>some waterfront property in Florida I want to sell you. The
>engine/drivetrain is designed to transmit energy from the motor
>thru the transmission and out to the wheels. When you downshift,
>you are transmitting power in the reverse..from the wheels to the
>transmission to the engine. You are applying forces in a
>direction not generally intended by the designers of the car. 

How do you know that it wasn't intended?  For example, as far as I know, both
faces of gear teeth have the same properties.  Assuming this is the case, you
are actually making use of the gear teeth faces during engine braking that
otherwise get little use.

>Furthermore as you downshift, the engine is not under load, and
>this is harmful to the engine. How you ask? Try this experiment.
>Park your car, put it in neutral, then run the engine at, say
>5,000 or 6,000 RPM. Hold the pedal down and stay at that speed.
>Guess how long your engine will last. This demonstration, albeit
>a bit extreme, is similar to what happens to your engine when you
>downshift. The engine is not under load, yet is turning at a
>rapid rate.

Your explanation is not complete.

As I see it, most people would agree that engine braking is appropriate for
long duration braking such as down hills.  The argument then, is what is the
appropriate break-even point beyond which engine braking is appropriate and
below which engine braking is not appropriate.  This would require some
calculation to get a justifiable answer.

Chris O'Neill
Telecom Australia Research Labs
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: '74 Super...Valves
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 14:54:31 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <MfGQy4O00iV382KYIS@andrew.cmu.edu>, db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Douglas S. Brashear) writes:

> do the points too; how many people out there think I should adjust the
> valves too?
> 
> STIPULATION: before you give me a 'yes, do the valves' answer, you have
> to have done it before yourself...successfully.  I have the "Idiot Book"
> and Mr. Muir makes it sound so easy...it also sounds like a major
> bonding event with your car.  

Yes, do the valves! The car will drive better, more powerfully (such as it is),
and last longer(a tight valve is a soon-to-be-burned valve).  There is a lot of
flat (low, round, whatever) at the bottom of the cam lobes, so turning the
engine is not as exact of a science as I had originally thought.  However,
adjusting the tappet clearance is.  If you don't do a great job adjusting your
points, then consider buying a set of GO-NO GO feeler gauges.  Adjust all
valves to .006" on your 1600.  Some people say to adjust the #3 exhaust valve
.002" more to .008".  However, .006 is already .002 more than the .004 that VW
used to specify.  Bentley (the official VW service manual) says .006 for all
valves on all 1600's.  

> 
> I'm probably gonna take it for the emissions test again after I get the
> points in and the carb adjusted...if it doesn't pass I'm probably going
> to have a go at the valves...

WHOA!!! Adjusting valves should be done BEFORE you adjust the carb.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |                               |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   IBM-  It may be slow, but   |
|           University of Louisville          |    at least it's expensive.   |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: 2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca
Subject: What's up with that...
Organization: Department of Economics
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 04:18:14 GMT
Summary: a bunch of vw beefs


I've had my jetta for a while, an now, in the style of Cliff Claven I 
ask...


Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?  What's up with 
that?  While I enjoy being able to sing to the radio all of the way up the 
front steps and into my house, I hate coming out to the car in the morning 
to find that the tape has auto-reversed itself for twelve hours.


The light in my trunk... what's up with it?  At first I didn't even think 
that there was a light.  Then I found the light and thought the bulb was 
burned out so I tested the bulb.  The bulb worked and I was really confused 
but luckily, keeping the radio lesson in mind I decided to try something 
really stupid... sure enough it worked.  The trunk light only works while 
the headlights are on.  Terrific thinking that you only need a light when it 
is dark (so the headlights) but who leaves their lights on as the get stuff 
out of the trunk.  Even stupider is the fact that whenever the lights are on 
the light in the trunk is on, regardless of whether the trunk is open or 
not.  Crazy.


But not quite as crazy as the gear shift.  Reverse... what's up with that?  
What is wrong with the standard five-speed pattern that the rest of the 
world uses.  Do people like having their shifters move up and down?  It 
should be listed as a theft deterrent device because no crook could ever 
back the car up.


Hey, don't get me wrong... I love my car - but, I will never understand the 
logic behind these items.  What do you think?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Learn to properly use your brakes (LOOOONG)
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:20:03 GMT

In article <21+3laj@rpi.edu>, kirchner@unix.cie.rpi.edu (Eric Kirchner) writes:
>
>We have this thing in New England called bad weather; snow ,ice, etc
>I have heard that it does exist elsewhere. ;-)  Anyway, it has this
>extreme effect on threshold braking, or any kind of braking for 
>that matter.  It can be a game; you brake, you lose.  I consider it
>one more good reason to learn how to properly use your brakes, and
>how not to.  It is also a good reason to know how to downshift smooth,
>and efficiently in sometimes rather intense situations.
>
>Eric.
Gee, the last time I looked at a map, Massachusetts was in New England. Thats
where I do the majority of my driving. Let's see...I've used threshold braking
on Newfound Lake, NH ice racing with the BMW Club, I've used it while rallying
in the snow during NER's Snow & Ice (hint...hint) rally...I'm sorry but
I don't think you know what "intense situations" are...never once used the
"downshifting" technique to help slow down...I've been guilty of yanking
up the emergency brake on the GTI a few times on snow, dirt, and ice
to induce a "bootleg" turn or two....I'll stick by my guns...learn to
use your brakes...

Ric


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov (Mike Ross)
Subject: Re: [A] brakes suck in my '63
Organization: Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Company
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:16:02 GMT

[ problem with locking brakes ]

I have seen the front brakes locked up on my '65 Bug, and it turned
out to be the front flex lines.  They had swollen up internally until 
they were blocked off.  I cut them through, and still only got a small
drop of fluid to come out the cut end, even standing on the brakes!
I replaced them, and all problems were gone.  These hoses had caused
multiple problems, from brakes not responding to staying on after
releasing.  I believe the lines were original, so over 25 years
old.  I could not even *see* the hole in the cut end of the hose.

I replaced all the hoses on my '65 and my '67 after seeing this.

FWIW, -mike

-- 
******************************** mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov *****
* Michael L. Ross/C33 | Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Co.   *
* Robotics Department | 2400 Nasa Rd. 1, Houston, TX 77062    *
*(713)333-7094 voice,(713)333-7201 fax**********boring, eh?****
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rauletta@sitevax.gmu.edu (R. J. Auletta)
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Organization: Electrical and Computer Engineering
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 19:23:46 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.173928.27480@csi.jpl.nasa.gov> eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred) writes:

>I disagree.  You can fix FI by replacing components.  You can also diagnose

>In contrast, you really can't do much to a carburettor which has gone bad
>
>>>Which is better, High Tech, or Low Tech?


More like Tech versus Magic.

-RjAuletta

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK)
Subject: Re: Need Bug mechanic in San Francisco
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: air bug beetle
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
Date:  8 Jan 1993 19:54 MST  

In article <27Jn027k31BW01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, scm80@diag.amdahl.com (Steve Meyer) writes...
{I need help!  Could someone please recommend a good air-cooled VW
{mechanic in or around San Francisco.  My Bug and I would greatly
{appreciate it.
{ 
{Thanks,
{Steve
   You might go to DONSCO on Holly in Burlingame.  They can reccomend a good 
place.  They gave me a good recommend.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: 85 GLI-Platinum Plugs?
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:08:03 GMT

In article <29415@oasys.dt.navy.mil> odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:
>I just recently replaced regular Bosch WD7DC plugs with Bosch
>Platinum Plugs-On the box it reads "If you don't immediately
>notice the difference in these plugs, we'll buy them from you"
>
>"Supposedly"the best --cooler-hotter etc.-under all conditions.
>
>The "old" plugs had been in for around 16K, and the car just
>starting running a little rough.
>
>The difference was noticeable-but my question is for anybody
>out there in netland-
>
>Are platinum plugs really any better than the regular copper plugs,
>and why?  The prices are almost the same--$13.26 for four for the
>platinum.
>
>I've heard so much talk about the pros and cons of platinum plugs-
>some say don't use them, others say there is very little difference,
>I've never heard anyone brag about platinum plugs.
>
>What do you think?
>
>Bern O'Dell--

I ran the platinums in my 87 Vanagon for 20kmiles and was happy.  I just put
in the Bosch three conductor and it runs slightly better.  Bosch claims not
only longer life for the platinums, but also a larger temperature range for
correct operation.  ALthough its supposedly their best, most folks I've talked with prefer the 3 conductor.

Jason (jdouglas@mitre.org)

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: anh@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (christopher.j.hapeman)
Subject: Re: [W] Corrado Spoiler (A Fix)
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:17:49 GMT


First, sorry about the [A] in the subject line last
time.

I called Nuespeed and they have a 'high speed spoiler'
relay that you can purchase for $99.95.  A bit steep 
if you ask me, maybe I'll go without the spoiler and 
simply remove the relay, at least it would be cheaper.
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '74 Super...Carb Adj.
Summary: Yo!
Date: 7 Jan 93 01:09:48 GMT
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1

In article <UfGm2pq00Uh_A2b5Vt@andrew.cmu.edu>, db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Douglas S. Brashear)                  writes...
>Thanks to everyone who answered my valve question...yes, I'm gonna do it!
>Okay, this is the last question!
>On my carb, there are basically 3 adjustment screws (34-pict-3...I think)
> 
>1-idle adjustment screw
>2-bypass screw (large)
>3-mixture adj screw
> 
>my question- if I turn the mixture adj. screw counterclockwise, does
>that add more oxygen (less gas) or vice versa.

Vice versa. Counterclockwise (out) will make it more rich. That is
if a 74' carb isn't significantly different than earlier years.
> 
>what does the bypass screw do?

It adds more of both. Air and gas. You want to start your adjustments
with the mixture screw.
> 
>Thanks much in advance!
>-DOUG
>db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw