HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Adding engine to Ridge Runt
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:06:44 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.170730.4461@dvs.com> brooks@dvs.com (Walter Brooks) writes:

|I was thinking of a Cox Black Widow ('cause I like the name) but beyond
|that I'm not use what to use. What kind (size) of prop should I use?
|
|The Ridge Runt has the following characteristics (from box cover):
|	Weight: 22oz (I've got 2oz of lead in the nose)
|	Span:	50in
|	Radio:	2 channel (aileron and elevator)
|	Config:	T-tail with high wing

I would think 22 oz and 50 inches is a bit much for a reed-valve
.049.  At the least, I would think you might want a TD.  A better
idea would be to try a Cox .09 instead.  That would use a 7x4 prop
or so.  An .049 uses a 6x3 or 6x4 or thereabouts.

If you go with the larger motor, you might want to consider three
channels, to give you throttle control (and use an RC 09, like the
Enya Pet).  Consider beefing up the nose quite a bit, using balsa 
doublers (soaks up vibration better than ply).  And watch out for 
the tail to shake apart from the extreme turbulence off the 
spinning prop, that isn't experienced in a glider.  You might want 
to add a bit of fuselage bracing just fore of the rudder, and some 
extra bracing at the rudder/stab interface.

Also, watch out if it comes out much heavier than 22 ounces, as 
the wings may not be strong enough to withstand the extra weight 
at high G's.  

Good luck with your project.

			Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Transmitter/Receiver Mods
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 10:44:03 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
  <1993Jan22.134412.1975@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu>

>>>I have a 4-channel Futaba FM system, and I was thinking of getting
>>>a plane (Sig Samuri glider) that needs elevon mixing.
>>>
>>>Does anyone make a little black box that goes in the plane
>>>to do the mixing electronically? 
>>
>>ACE makes a little box called a Cristy mixer that will do elevon mixing. I th
i
>nk

>    ...and it reduces the available throw on each servo by 50%.

And it still doesn't let you modify your differential throws on the elevons
for clean rolling motion; you'd have to do it manually.

Personally, I think a computer radio is essential for (relatively) exotic
control surface planes, like the Samurai.  Without it, you spend many hours
mechanically adjusting wheel/horn angles to get a 'correct' flight path.
IE, on the Samurai:  If your setup with a mechanically controlled differential
does barrel-type rolls when you crank the ailerons only over, you'll have
to fiddle endlessly with the mech differential.  With a computer radio,
you can do it electronically, and practically adjust it as you fly; or
at least, have it set up and flying well within a couple of hours.

Besides, to us techno-geeks, computerized equipment is a must. :)

  -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Organization: Senior, Mechanical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 10:40:14 -0500 
From: Michael Oliver Muller <mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Connecting pushrods to servos
	<97027@rphroy.ph.gmr.com>

>Anybody make 2-56 rod with a left hand thread? I've never seen it.

I suppose you could turn your own threads.... Kinda neat idea!

Mike Muller,
mm7q@andrew.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: djohnson@cs.ulowell.edu (Daniel T. Johnson)
Subject: Re: HydraDrive/Stealth
Originator: djohnson@bigmax.ulowell.edu
Organization: U. Mass. at Lowell
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 21:49:31 GMT


They have a good article on the hydra in r/c car action. I forgot which issue though it explanes how the hydra drive works and all that stuff.
-- 
                 
                      The Best Programmer in My Mind
			Daniel T. Johnson, Phd.
ps. It could happen.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: plb@dcdwest.uucp (Phil Blais)
Subject: Re: Connecting pushrods to servos
Organization: ITT Aerospace/Communications Division - West
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 16:48:34 GMT

In article <96800@rphroy.ph.gmr.com> pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com writes:
>
>In article F7M@csn.org, eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik) writes:
>>Another from my list of questions:
>
>>I use the EZ connectors on my Gentle Lady, and they are great.
>>They make it very easy for trimming. My friend says that they
>>will be too unreliable in a power plane due to the vibration.
>>
>>
>>QUESTION:
>>Can I use the EZ connectors, or will they fail due to vibration?
>>They are my first choice.
>
>I prefer to use adjustable clevises on both ends of a pushrod. 
                                        ^^^^^^^^^

I assume you use a lock nut on atleast one end to prevent the pushrod
from lengthening or shortening due to vibration? Not a flame, just wanna
be sure the neophytes don't get the wrong impression.
-- 
=========================================================================
phil blais  N6KXD AMA 12662      ITT    Aerospace Communications Division
dcdwest!plb@ucsd.edu           DEFENSE    10060 Carroll Canyon Road
 (619) 578-3080					San Diego, CA 92131
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Tachometers
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:55:14 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................


In article 24776@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM, lew@4ccvw46.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew) writes:
>In article <C10wo1.4ov@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
>>I am at the point of ordering my tach. The two possibilities are the 
>>Royal analog tach from America Hobby Center and the Tower Hobbies digi-
>>tal tach. They both cost around $30-35. 

>that switch from off-2 blade-3 blade. It measures to the nearest 100
>RPM. The unit has a photo cell that senses the number of times light
>is intererupted by the prop. How accurate it is, I don't know. It does
>respond fairly quick though.


You can test the accuracy (at least at one point) by pointing it at an electric
light where you get 3600 rpm.  

PS.  I was able to tach an electric airplane
indoors by shining a flashlight through the prop at the tach.
From: dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Wanted COX .049 or .020
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:48:32 GMT
Organization: SDRC

I missed out on the earlier post for a couple .049s and .020s for sale.
I wasn't the early bird.  And I don't have any .10s to trade.

But, I'm interested in buying some old Cox engines.  I didn't save mine
from when I was a kid.  So if anyone out there has some old ones 
sitting is a box in their garage, let me know.  I just want to
play around and put one on an old slope glider.

				Thanks,

				Mike

******************************************************************************
  Mike Welch                 * "Gun laws go against Darwin's Theory.
  SDRC                       *  Let stupid people kill each other."
  2000 Eastman Drive         * 
  Milford, Ohio 45150        * "Governments should not mandate the
  Tel: (513) 576-2514        *  use of safety belts.  Let Natural
  Email: Mike.Welch@sdrc.com *  Selection work."  - me
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: brooks@dvs.com (Walter Brooks)
Subject: Adding engine to Ridge Runt
Organization: Digital Video Systems
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 17:07:30 GMT

I was thinking of starting to get into gas powered flight, and one of the
cheapest and easiest ways, I thought, would be to put a small gas engine
on my Ridge Runt slope glider.

Has anyone ever done this?

I was thinking of a Cox Black Widow ('cause I like the name) but beyond
that I'm not use what to use. What kind (size) of prop should I use?

The Ridge Runt has the following characteristics (from box cover):
	Weight: 22oz (I've got 2oz of lead in the nose)
	Span:	50in
	Radio:	2 channel (aileron and elevator)
	Config:	T-tail with high wing

Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks a bunch!
-- 

Walter Brooks                _/_/_/  _/   _/ _/_/_/    Digital Video Systems
Phone: 416/299-6888 x394    _/   _/  _/  _/ _/           
Fax:   416/299-7145        _/   _/   _/ _/   _/_/        A subsidiary of
email: brooks@dvs.com     _/   _/    _/_/      _/          Scientific-
                         _/_/_/      _/   _/_/_/            Atlanta
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk (Bob day)
Subject: Re: Tachometers 
Distribution: world
Organization: Harrier Softnet Ltd
Reply-To: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk
X-Mailer: Simple NEWS 1.90 (ka9q DIS 1.19)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 16:10:56 +0000


>Actually, regarding calibrating to an electric light wouldn't that be
>1800 rpm for a two blade prop or 1200 for a three blader?
>
>Also, you would need a fluorescent light or some other light that
>flickers more than an incandescent light.
>
>Just a thought...

>Wrrooonnngggggggg... An incandescant lamp running on 50 Hz mains actually
flashes 100 times/sec. The sine-wave goes both posative and negative peaks
in ecah cycle, ie 100 flashes/sec. Multilpy by 60, gives 6000 flashes per
minute.. So on the two blade setting it should read 300 ( 3000rpm ) and on 
three blade 200...

I guess your side of the pond where you run at 60Hz it would read 360 and 240.

I'm not an expert on flourescant lights, (or much else really) :-) but they
run via some really high voltage gizmo which makes the gas in the tube 
flouresce constantly....
>

cheers 

bob

Harrier Softnet Ltd    tel +44-734-731181              I'd rather be playing
Ivanhoe Rd             fax +44-734-734546              with my chopper
Finchampstead          email bob@harrier.demon.co.uk     O  / __________
Berkshire                                               -|-<>     /\======O
RG11 4QQ                                               _/ \_    __\/__
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Tachometers 
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 16:28:46 GMT

In article <C1F6oC.18I@hpchase.rose.hp.com> jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Steve Jahr) writes:
>Iskandar Taib (ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu) wrote:
>: Hmmm
>: 
>: I think this is backwards. The filament of an incandescent lamp 
>: doesn't have enough time to cool down enough between cycles, so
>: it should glow steadily. A fluorescent lamp, however, relies on
>: the flow of electrons through a mercury vapor through the tube,
>: and this can respond faster to the cycles of AC. 
>: 
>: Whether they flash 60x per second or 120x per second I don't know.
>
>Ok... I've got one and I've tried it.  In TFM the calibration mode is
>claimed to work on incandescent lights.  But it works on both types equally
>well.  The way I figure, it is a pretty sensitive bugger.  But then
>I suppose it has to be to "see" the prop without any backlighting or
>anything.

I just remembered that in my photography days it was emphasized that
one should use a shutter speed of 1/30 sec or less (i.e. 1/15, 1/8 
etc.) when shooting under fluorescent lights because it flashes and 
at a faster shutter speed you might miss a flash. I had a picture 
I took of a fluorescent light where I intentionally moved the camera-
you could see 4-5 distinct images of the fluorescent light tube.

The funniest mistake (not a typo) I've ever seen in a newspaper had
to do with fluorescent light ballasts, which according to the Indiana
Daily Student, were the "weights used to hold down lights on campus".
Got a free CD off that too.. sent it in to Robert Conrad's Weekend 
Radio from Cleveland - they have a "media faux pas" contest every week.




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Battery Discharge Circuit For Tx/Rx
Date: 27 Jan 93 08:09:09 CST
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <C16Csu.3LG@news.rich.bnr.ca>, martyg@bnr.ca (Martin Gallant) writes:
> I have just become the owner of a (new) Futaba 4-channel FM transmitter
> and corresponding receiver.  This is my first R/C radio set.  I would
> like to cycle both battery packs a couple of times before their first
> flight, to get an estimate of their capacity.
> 
> I have also been told this is a good idea for new NiCd's anyway.
> Opinions?
> 
> I need an inexpensive method to discharge the packs, ie. simple resistor
> and miniature light bulb method.  Can anyone supply a schematic and a
> parts list?  Is there an archive for this sort of information?
> 

Your transmitter may have a diode in the charging circuit to 
prevent cycling thru the charge jack.  In this case, you have to 
remove the battery pack.  Hook up an ESV, if no voltage is 
measured, you have a diode.  A real cheap cycling method is to 
charge up your system for 14 hrs using the standard wall charger, 
and then turn your transmitter and receiver on, and operate 
the sticks while you sit and watch TV.  You should do this for 
about 90 minutes for the standard discharge.  This also burns 
in your servos, so you find out if there is a problem before 
you fly the plane.  Repeat the procedure a few times and you 
should be confident about your battery capacity and radio 
/ servo reliability.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: t130397@lehtori.cc.tut.fi (Tuomainen Juha)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: SG's Swedish importer
Date: 22 Jan 1993 10:32:33 +0200
Organization: Tampere University of Technology, Computing Centre
Distribution: eunet
NNTP-Posting-Host: cc.tut.fi

I would need some replacement parts for my old SG Tiger 4WD RC car but I have
not been able to buy them here in Finland. Does somebody know the name and the
address of the company that imports SG cars in Sweden?? 



Juha Tuomainen
t130397@cc.tut.fi

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Subject: Re: Airtronics Infinity 600, 660, and Vision
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 22:04:07 GMT

In article <1993Jan28.022847.16554@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu>, hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto) writes:
> In article <1k6tvfINN2li@shelley.u.washington.edu>, rael@carson.u.washington.edu (Russ Light) writes:
> 
> >I would also be interested in anyone who has had experience with the Legend.
> >My plane is about 90% done.  The wing servos recommended are the new ones
> >from Airtronics (I forget number at this writing).  These are expensive and
> >I don't see any mail order house offering them with a package radio. Any
> >advice? Thanks ahead of time.
> 
>     Ooh, a Legend, I'm very jealous (no smileys intended, I'm dead serious). 

They are certainly very nice aircraft. Two people I fly with have Legends
and they perform very well - they love being stood on a wingtip in tight
thermal turns and have a good speed range. One of the guys even does quite
well in F3B with his (looses out a bit in speed thou - he thinks it should
be capable of about 30 sec's while the fastest guy around here now does
23 sec's).

>     Back to the jealousy part. I'm *dying* to build a Legend, but my wallet
>     won't allow. According to Jack Albrecht (the customer services fellow
>     at Airtronics) you don't *have* to use the 94141 servos in the wing of
>     your Legend, but it works a lot cleaner. The kits comes with cutouts on
>     the plans that fit the '141s like a glove. You're on your own if you try
>     a servo without the (unique) side mount system on the 94141. Because the
>     Legend is a "flap dragger" servos with metal gears are considered a "must"
>     by all the guys who write in the magazines. You also want a servo with no
>     more weight than necessary since each wing gets two of them puppies.

Both of the Legends here are controlled via Futaba FF7's, which
is the most popular radio around these here parts... This radio
is quite suitable for sailplanes like the Legend, however it does
have limitations on the mixing - particularly if you want
continuously variable camber (flap and ailerons down) and also
crow braking (flap down, ailerons up). If anyone can do both
on an FF7 I'd love to hear from you...

These Legends use Futaba servo's all round with no problems,
although I'm not sure how much work it took to mount them.
Metal gear servo's are certainly recommended for the flaps
(it's quite easy to forget to retract them before touchdown...).
I can't remember what the Futaba servo number is that we use,
but it's their metal geared mini servo. Futaba now have a metal
geared micro servo out, which would probably do the job on the
ailerons and possibly the flaps also.

Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: Re: Help with release agents needed
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 23:01:00 GMT

>>>>> On 25 Jan 93 18:09:06 GMT, cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters) said:
Colin> Can anyone talk to me about release agents?

Colin> I have made a polyester mould that came off its wooden plug very
Colin> easily however I can't seem to stop epoxy mouldings sticking to
Colin> the polyester mould very badly (I trashed one part of the mould 
Colin> at the first attempt!).

Colin> I have tried:

Colin> 1/. Bees Wax rubbed on and polished off - six "coats"!

Colin> 2/. A silicon spray used to lubricate windsurfer dagger boards.
Colin>     (Yes I know about painting problems later with silicon).

Colin> Both looked OK before lay up (nice shine) but in both cases the 
Colin> epoxy stuck to the polyester mould better than it did to the kevlar
Colin> cloth!

Colin> When applying wax should it be left to form a kind of solid cost
Colin> or polished off like on car bodywork? I find most of it seems to
Colin> comes off as a white powder when I polish it even gently. Should 
Colin> the mould have the shine taken off first before starting with the
Colin> wax? Mine has a high gloss finish.

Colin> Ta

For parting wax, try carnuba paste wax. Three very thin coats are required
on a new mold. Also use polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) release film, which
can be sprayed or sponged on, to provide a smooth glassy film. PVA should
be applied over the parting wax. It is water soluble for easy release.

There are also spray release agents available. 

Check with Fibre Glast Corporation, phone number 1-800-821-3283, for a
catalog with further information.

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
Tularosa: tullies, roses, lava, white sands, and home of THEM! (atomic ants).
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: lesnyd@monsanto.com (Larry E. Snyder)
Subject: Re: Connecting pushrods to servos
Organization: DSC
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 13:47:48 GMT

In article <C189q0.F7M@csn.org>, eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik) writes:
> 
> 
> QUESTION:
> Can I use the EZ connectors, or will they fail due to vibration?
> They are my first choice.
> 
I would NOT recommend using EZ connectors on anything but throttle. If that
little setscrew gets even a little loose on the elevator, you'r dead meat.
Just not worth it. I don't see where soldering quick links to the pushrod
would be any better than Z-bends. Solder joints can fail, but Z-bends are
rock solid. I vote for Z-bends.

Larry
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: tachometers 
Distribution: world
Organization: Harrier Softnet Ltd
Reply-To: bob@harrier.demon.co.uk
X-Mailer: Simple NEWS 1.90 (ka9q DIS 1.19)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:22:04 +0000

>Hmmm
>
>I think this is backwards. The filament of an incandescent lamp 
>doesn't have enough time to cool down enough between cycles, so
>it should glow steadily. A fluorescent lamp, however, relies on
>the flow of electrons through a mercury vapor through the tube,
>and this can respond faster to the cycles of AC. 
>
>Whether they flash 60x per second or 120x per second I don't know.
>


 Ok the proof of the pudding is in the amount of brandy poured it at
 mixing time...... 

 Ok I pointed my (tacho) at a filament lamp and it reads 3000 on 2 blade.
 
 I then went out to the kitchen and did something I've never done before, 
 pointed it a a flourescent light, it read 30000, that means that the
 flourescant is flashing at 10 TIMES THE RATE OF AN INCANDESCANT BULB. I
 KNEW there was some magic going on in there...-- 


Only joking it read 3000. I guess that makes it an honorable draw....:-)

cheers

bob

Harrier Softnet Ltd    tel +44-734-731181              I'd rather be playing
Ivanhoe Rd             fax +44-734-734546              with my chopper
Finchampstead          email bob@harrier.demon.co.uk     O  / __________
Berkshire                                               -|-<>     /\======O
RG11 4QQ                                               _/ \_    __\/__
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: georgep@emr1.emr.ca (George Pachulski)
Subject: Re: House of Balsa P-51D Mustang ???
Organization: Energy, Mines, and Resources, Ottawa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:54:03 GMT

 Hi I have built the HoB Mustang and T-6. I have flowen the T-6 and am 
waiting for the day when I'm brave enough or have time enough to fly the 
Hob mustang.  The T-6 is powered by a KB .20 with 4 chanel Futaba Am radio

So far I like the T-6 as a plane. I'm more of a beginner but this was not 
my first aircraft.  I found the constrution of the Hob mustang more challenging
than the T-6 I supose the flight characteristics will be the same.  Don't 
now how the .20 will work inverted but I'll find out when I move it to the 
Mustang someday.


B
B
B
A
A
A
A
Hope that's some help.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU
Subject: Re: Do most servos input a "pulse width modulated" sig?
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:18:06 GMT

Almost all servos now on the market are three wire types using a
positive and negative (+5volts & Ground) and signal wires.
The servo will respond to a Positive on pulse between .9 and 1.9 msec
in duration. The off time is usually not critical as long as its around
2.5 msec or so.   The signal will look something like this:
     +5 Volt               ___         ___
      0 Volt      ________|   |_______|   |_________
I hope this
I hope this diagram shows up all right!
The servo will normally center at about 1.5 msec for Futaba and J.R.
and 1.4 msec for older Kraft radios. (Kraft Sport Series centered at
1.9 msec).  How many of you remember Kraft radios?
 
Hope this helps.
Kraig Krumm (AMA59622)
The University of Akron
Electronic Systems
From: chaffin@sab45.larc.nasa.gov (Mark Chaffin)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Tachometers
Date: 26 Jan 1993 01:23:51 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: sab45.larc.nasa.gov

Well, I just put my mechanical tach up against the light bulb and 
it read zero.  :)
Didn't Royal used to sell a couple versions of mechanical tachs a 
few years ago.  Brave souls.
-- 
/-\|/-\|/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/-\/-\|/
|            ____       _         Man plays only when he is in             -
\         | __\_\_o____/_|        the full sense of the word a             \
-         <[___\_\_-----<         man, and he is only wholly man           |
/         |  o'                   when he is playing.                      /
|                                       -Friedrich Schiller                \
\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|\-/|
                     MARTHAS OVER MISSOULA!!!