HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gksp@sun.com (Scott Pett - Solaris Trainer)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: PCM or not PCM, HAM or not HAM...
Date: 20 Jan 1993 11:41:05 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: gksp@sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: thunderbird.uk.sun.com

> >Splash my boots another Britt......

An interesting expression.

> Yes there are a few us listening in.

Regards,
Scott

Schluter Junior 50 heli-crasher extrordinaire

> Sun Microsystems Scotland BV.
> Linlithgow
> 




Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: jrp@kowari.cpsg.com.au (John Pitman)
Subject: tachometers
Organization: Computer Power Software Group Pty Ltd
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 02:57:10 GMT

Hi
hers my 2c worth - all the tachs I've seen read 3000 (2 blade setting) from
a flouro light - 50cycle AC * 60 secs = 3000/min. IN 60 cycle territory you
would get 3600.
jp
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Futaba 9301 Servos
From: SRINGROS@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 07:55:31 PST
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

>9301 servos which are listed as "surface type" in the Futaba
>by a R/C car enthusiast that the only difference is the 9301
>is waterproof.  Any other differences that would make them
>a poor choice for a plane?
 
I would think that made them a good choice - but there is a lot of
water around here.
 
Scott
 
Scott Ringrose
Printing and Presentation Services
B C  Sytems Corporation, (604)389-3729 BCSC01(MVS)=SC32169
BCSC02(VM)=SRINGROS INTERNET=SRINGROS@BCSC02.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: teemu@krkmoon.krk.fi (Teemu Hakala)
Subject: Re: THE END OF R/C MODELING
Organization: Radio Club of Kauniainen (OH2NRG)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 15:35:25 GMT

   The plan puts mobile transmitters only 2.5Khz off of our channels!
   I doubt that it would be safe to trust even the best of narrow band
   receivers to reject a multiple time more powerful signal that close.

 This is the situation here (in Finland). We have some channels in the 27MHz
band and some other hobbyist action in between. No, not hams, people who buy
a transceiver and start to speak, no certification needed. As you might guess
the selectivity of their output is not good, we who use 27MHz band suffer 
from strange misactions of our cars (35MHz saved for flying and 40MHz rare).
 DO SOMETHING SO THAT THIS WOULD NOT BE REALITY FOR YOU THERE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!




--
Teemu Hakala     |     E-Mail to :     | 'So, there is no need to do any
Kasavuorentie 9B | teemu@krksun.krk.fi |  homework, mom, if there is no school'
02700 Kauniainen | Teemu.Hakala@krk.fi |   -- Calvin
From: gwp@dithots.Gwinnett.COM (George W. Pogue (Bill ))
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Altering the timing on stock motors
Date: 26 Jan 93 13:06:17 GMT
Reply-To: gwp@dithots.Gwinnett.COM
Organization: Deep In The Heart Of The South!

I'll answer what I can:

Jay Lorenzana <U40348@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:

> Kyosho 24 degree stock motor.
> 
> What are the pros and cons of changing the timing on such motors?
Pros: You'll get higher RPMs
Cons: It'll run hotter, you'll lose power

> 
> Will the motors life degrade?
Almost definitely... depending on the maintenance you perform on the
motor after each run.

> 
> How much faster can it go?
This is a variable placed on the motor itself. I have not owned the 24
degree but have got several other Kyosho motors. If I adjust their timing
and I usually get around 4-7 thousand more RPM... but it wears 'em out.

> Does it increase torque or increase RPM (or both)?
> 
Less torque and higher RPM.  From my understanding on this it is a tradeoff
that the manufacturer takes into consideration when they set the timing 
on a motor. The optimal setting is most often exactly where it is when you
get it. However, if your into high speed races where you've got nice smooth
turns with little loss of speed... go for the high RPMs. If you've got a lot
of slowing and turning to do, you need more torque. 

> How much work is involved in changing the timing?
On my motors, to adjust the timing is to loosen two screws and turn the
bell housing. Simple. But don't overturn it.

> 
> An aside:  Does motors have the same charactoristics in forward and
> reverse?  How much percent decrease is there in reverse compared to
> forward (if any)?

Depends on the motor. I would say that there is no difference (although I've
never reversed a motor myself) theoretically... but there probably is a 
difference simply from the point that the motor was designed and made to
run forward vs reverse. If it didn't matter, would they make motors 
specifically to run in reverse?

bill


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Buy & Sell American When Possible!  <->  All Standard Disclaimers Do Apply!
 gwp@dithots.Gwinnett.COM  (George W. Pogue  (Bill ))
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kai Daumiller" <UB5U@DKAUNI2.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Who knows the slopegliders STRYKER  SHOGUN ?
Date: 22 Jan 1993 17:48:31 +0100
Organization: University of Karlsruhe, Germany
Distribution: world

I am thinking about buying a small slopeglider.
At a show I have seen two kits (I don't know the manufacturer):
Stryker (a bit like a fighter) and Shogun (very futuristic),
both with styro/balsa wings and plastic fuselage.
At the show they claimed that the fuselage is indestructible.
Who has knows about them, has flown them and so on...

Kai


**********************************************************************
*    Kai Daumiller                ub5u@ibm3090.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de   *
*    Universitaet Karlsruhe       ub5u@dkauni2.bitnet                *
*    7500 Karlsruhe               S=ub5u;OU=ibm3090;OU=rz;           *
*    Germany                      P=uni-karlsruhe;A=dbp;C=de         *
**********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: how do I tune a 12lw
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:58:49 GMT
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Organization: rutgers university

I recently sold my rc 10 and got a new  rc 12lw

 This being my first pan car with a T plate ( ran a Lynx II), I have no
idea how to tune it. I'm running the tires in the box but have a set of
green dots I plan to put on when the old ones are shot.  

     I understand the concept of increasing spring rate on the rear to get
over steer, etc.

     My first problem is over steer. I've made the car as soft as possible
in the rear. The shock spring is loose, I'm using the thin T plate and the
damper disk springs are a loose as they can go. I also have a wing on the
body.
     The car still oversteers.

     My question is about the effect of the tweek screws and the damper
disks.

     I would appreciate it if some one who owns one could give me a rough
idea of how they set the car up. ie -whats your front caster, 
                               -the spring on the shock is it all the way
up, 1/2 way or completely tightened, 
                               -the dampening discs are both the top and
bottom springs equidistant or  did you tighten one up more than the other
                               - the tweek screws, are they  as loose as
possible or semi tight.


        any help would be greatly appreciated

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)
Subject: Re: Wind Speed Gauge
Organization: University of Helsinki
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 08:59:43 GMT

Joe Fenech (frankfx@volkswagon.EBay.Sun.COM) wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Who can tell me where to get a hand held wind speed
> detector. I have seen a few on the slopes, but have
> not been able to find out where they come from.
> 
> Tx
> 
> Joe 

Swatch, the big swiss watch-maker (big in Europe, anyway.
Makes those cheap plastic watches in color) has a new digital
wind speed meter. It fits your palm, has a small propeller
(10mm in diameter) and a LCD display. Quite expensive,
unfortunately. (around $100 here in Finland,if I recall right.
I may try to find out more, if you are interested).

-Tapio Linkosalo-
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: dlou@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Aristocraft 1991?
Date: 22 Jan 93 03:30:03 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of California, San Diego


I have an Aristo-Craft Hi-Tec Challenger 620 radio (6 channel) I
bought 6 or 7 years ago.  The reason I bought it was because it
is an FM radio and the advertisements all said it had a "1991 dual conversion
receiver" i.e. it was supposed to be 1991 compliant.

I remember something somewhere that somewhere between 1985 and 1991
the FCC changed the spec and the Gold Sticker was introduced.
Is my radio system still up to date?  Does anyone know where 
in San Diego (La Jolla) or LosAltos/MountainView/Sunnyvale I can take
my radio to get checked and/or re-tuned.

Thanks.

-- 
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
Organization: Senior, Mechanical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 22:52:33 -0500 
From: Michael Oliver Muller <mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Dead battery?

Hello everyone-
    I have a Futaba 6 channel FM transmitter, two years old. It has been
lying idle for the winter, and now that weather is (well, hopefully!)
getting warmer again, I brought it out of its slumber...
    My question: The battery was very low, and so I plugged the unit and
the transmitter battery pack into the factory supplied recharger
overnight. Ofter about 24 hours of recharging, the voltage on the
transmitter pack read at about 5.6 V, according to my Tower Hobbies
voltmeter (top of the "green" scale). However, the transmitter pack read
at only 9.5 V, which is rather low (the low end of the "green" scale).
Also, the voltmeter on the transmitter read only about 80%. When the
unit was new, the voltmeter read above 11 V, and the scale on the
transmitter read above 100%.
    Is my batter dead? Can I fix it? Or should I just get a new battery.
Is this the expected life?(two years)?

Any opinions welcome,
   Mike Muller,
   mm7q@andrew.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Tachometers 
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:07:08 GMT

In article <C1E7t9.G82@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
|>
|>I'm not an expert on flourescant lights, (or much else really) :-) but they
|>run via some really high voltage gizmo which makes the gas in the tube 
|>flouresce constantly....
|
|Hmmm
|
|I think this is backwards. The filament of an incandescent lamp 
|doesn't have enough time to cool down enough between cycles, so
|it should glow steadily. 

Well, it seems to glow pretty steadily, except that it does flicker
enough to show 3600 rpm on my Royal Tach.

|A fluorescent lamp, however, relies on
|the flow of electrons through a mercury vapor through the tube,
|and this can respond faster to the cycles of AC. 

Yes, a florescent light has noticable pulses.  Hold up your hand
against a florescent light, looking at it through your fingers.  Wave
your hand frantically.  Now, apologise to the person who thought you
were being over friendly.  You may have noticed, though, before you
embarrassed yourself, that you see a bunch of finger images.  That's
the light pulses.

|Whether they flash 60x per second or 120x per second I don't know.

You can see 60 cycles/second as a noticeable flicker.  120 is high enough
that your persistance of vision makes it look steady.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Transmitter/Receiver Mods
Date: 22 Jan 93 11:45:12 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................


In article 3zr@inews.Intel.COM, dbraun@cad636.intel.com (Doug Braun ) writes:
>
>--
>
>I have a 4-channel Futaba FM system, and I was thinking of getting
>a plane (Sig Samuri glider) that needs elevon mixing.
>
>Does anyone make a little black box that goes in the plane
>to do the mixing electronically? 

ACE makes a little box called a Cristy mixer that will do elevon mixing. I think
it costs about 20 or 30 bucks.
From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu  (Roger Wilfong)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Vacuum bagging
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993  13:13 edt
Organization: UofM Hospitals
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: robin.hosp.med.umich.edu
X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0

In Article <1993Jan22.164650.18525@klaava.Helsinki.FI> "linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)" says:
> >
> > I am ignorant of the specifics of vacuum bagging.  I assume it involves 
> > placing a casting of fiberglass lay-up into a bag and sucking the air out -
> > along with air bubbles in the resin.  But what is the set up?
> >  
> > Are there any good overview, how-to and build-your-own articles on the topic?
> >  
> > - Roger
> 
> Don'k know about books...
> 
> Just take a used fridge, cut & unscrew off the compressor (you
> ...
> [deleted stuff]
> ...
> AND FIRE. But it works, and is cheap.
 
Thanks for the info on the compressor.  It contained some stuff I hadn't 
though of.  But I was really more interested in the bag than the compressor. 
 
Do you just use a plain old polyethelyne (sp?) bag (like a garbage bag) and 
hook it to the vacuum side of the compressor?  
 
Do you need to do anything to avoid sucking the resin into the compressor?
 
- Roger
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 09:35:16 EST
From: <TWA101@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: HydraDrive/Stealth

You're correct, I believe Thorp makes the part(s) necessary to run Losi's
Hydra-drive on a Stealth.  I race Losi, and Losi only.  I have an RC10 with
a stealth, and the ultimate transmission WOULD be the combination of the
two.  The Hydra drive works in conjunction with the slipper.  It is an
enclosed unit filled with a thick oil in witch a fan shaped impeller spins.
It works on the basis of fluid resistance.  It allows the slipper to be
loosly adjusted and still have superior control over varying track
conditions.  It takes the rear-end slide out of jumps, let me explain.  When
you jump, the wheels are going the same rate as when you left the ground.
When you land, the car has slowed, but the wheels arestill going at the same
rate as when you left.  (Experienced drivers can control this tho) When the
car lands, the car basically "fishtails" the back end begins to slide from
one side to the other.  The H.D.  dampens this effect, allowing a straighter
take off after the jump.  It also helps on the rough parts of the track,
bumps and banked turns.  Losi is on the cutting edge of RC technology, but
look for Associated's new truck coming out soon.  It's supposed to be a
killer.

***********************
* Rich Fair           *
* Losi---#1           *
* Reach me at         *
* TWA101@psuvm.psu.edu*
***********************
Organization: Sponsored account, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:59:20 -0500 
From: Chris Beasley <cb1p+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Tachometers
	<1993Jan19.202525.20305@rtsg.mot.com>

Actually, regarding calibrating to an electric light wouldn't that be
1800 rpm for a two blade prop or 1200 for a three blader?

Also, you would need a fluorescent light or some other light that
flickers more than an incandescent light.

Just a thought...
b
From: dankari@cats.ucsc.edu (Martin Eric Bogomolni)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: EMERGENCY SALE!   72 HOURS only!
Date: 27 Jan 1993 23:46:06 GMT
Organization: University of California, Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: si.ucsc.edu
Keywords: sale heli rc


Hello all you enthusiasts!  I have an EMERGENCY sale!  

Very soon I sahll be leaving for australia, and as we
all know, money is IMPORTANT.  So, now, just a short
while before my departure, I am selling some of my RC
equipment to pay for travel expenses!

(I can't belive I'm doing this....)

The following all for $350-400 bucks.

Whisper RC helicopter, fully outfitted, with a new pair
of balanced blades ready to go.  6 channel fully prop
jr radio with mixing and 1991 legal reciver.  Extra 
servos, exta battery pack.  Adjustable charger, 2 batt
packs.

		AND..........

A second whisper, incomplete, for parts.


Sorry, no piecemeal, no parts, no dickering.  Its crazy
enough as is.  I'll even throw in random stuff lying about
like another electric motor, loose cells, and parts.

If you want it, call me @ 408-475-5895 or email me ----
Dankari@cats.ucsc.edu   ... Getting into a heli was never
this easy, and never will be again.


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- |--\                              Bringer of doom, and you shall BOW to me! |
- |  |                              ||||  Dankari@cats.ucsc.edu -- *(8-> |||| |
- |--/ ANKARI!!!!                   The few, the PROUD, the totally INSANE!!! |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)
Subject: Re: Vacuum bagging
Organization: University of Helsinki
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 16:46:50 GMT

> I am ignorant of the specifics of vacuum bagging.  I assume it involves 
> placing a casting of fiberglass lay-up into a bag and sucking the air out -
> along with air bubbles in the resin.  But what is the set up?
>  
> Are there any good overview, how-to and build-your-own articles on the topic?
>  
> - Roger

Don'k know about books...

Just take a used fridge, cut & unscrew off the compressor (you
might go to ask some place where they handle 'problem'-waste,
as you propably dont want to let the CFC out to atmosfere
(sp?). The compressor is a black thing about the size of a
football. By its side it has a small box, which is the switch
to turn the compressor off and on. The AC cabel runs into the
box, as well as a cable from a thermostat. Opening the box,
you should find three pins goind into the compressor itself.
Remove all exceccive, and connect the AC cable to these three
pins. One is ground, and the other two are the power leads.

Plug in, and go to change the fuse :-)

Seriously, there are not very many ways to connect the leads,
so trial and error -method and a box of fuses should work. BUT
BE VERY CAREFUL, AND ONCE YOU GET THE COMPRESSOR RUNNING,
CHECK THAT IT IS GROUNDED, IE. HAS NO VOLTAGE. NO PLAYING WITH
AC!

If you get the comp running, it chould suck from one tube and
blow from the other. Now just connect the vacuum bag to the
sucking tube. You can check the amount of pressure by checking
how much air the comp blows from the tube. One comp can only
suck to about 0.5 atm, so you can let it run until it blows no
air out. At this point STOP THE COMP, as it heats up rapidly
if no air flows through it. But be prepared to start it again
with 15 to 30 min intervals, depending on how tight the vac.
bag is.

Further improvements could be a vacuum tank (from truck
brake-air bottle), a pressure meter, and even a
pressure-activated on-off switch.

Last word of warning: NEVER LET THIS KIND OF COMPRESSOR RUN
WITHOUT OBSERVATION, AS IT MIGHT EASILY CAUSE ELECTRIC SHORTS
AND FIRE. But it works, and is cheap.

-Tapio Linkosalo-
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (Chris Kaiser)
Subject: Re: Transmitter/Receiver Mods
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 04:33:23 GMT

In article <C1F9Lq.1t9@hpchase.rose.hp.com>, jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Steve Jahr) writes:
> Doug Braun (dbraun@cad636.intel.com) wrote:
> : 
> : --
> : 
> : I have a 4-channel Futaba FM system, and I was thinking of getting
> : a plane (Sig Samuri glider) that needs elevon mixing.
> : 
> : Does anyone make a little black box that goes in the plane
> : to do the mixing electronically?  Otherwise, has anyone ever
> : heard of a modifiecation to the transmitter to hard-wire
> : it to do the mixing?  How about a mod to add more channels?
> : I would assume the chip in the transmitter that does all the work
> : has the capability of doing more than 4 channels, and you
> : could wire in pots or switches to some unused inputs to
> : get more channels.
> 
> As has been posted...
> 
>     You could use the ACE Christy electronic mixer.
>     You could use a mechanical mixer (sliding tray or DuBro).
>     You could use the RCD "MOM" (Master Onboard Mixer).

Scratch that mechanical mixer... the Samuri is a 2-channel model
that uses wingerons, i.e. both whole wings rotate independently to
provide roll control and together to give pitch control (requires
strong ball-raced servos...). There isn't enough room in the fuse
to add a mechanical mixer (unless you're extremely clever), and
with the wing twist setup you don't want ***ANY*** slop in the
linkages.

> As to mixing... it is probably possible.  The biggest difficulty
> would be creating two "inverse" signals to drive the alternate
> ailerons.  Once this is accomplished, then mixing the elevator
> signal onto these signals is probably fairly simple.  To provide
> fuel for thought... I'll repost something I wrote up a while back
> on adding channels to a Tx.  The main relevance to this discussion
> is basic control stick circuitry.

   ... good stuff on adding channels deleted ...

The way to do this in the Tx is to add the aileron and elevator
channels together for one servo, and subtract them for the other
- then use servo reversing if necessary to get the right actions.
Building an "adder" and "sutracter" is not hard if you have some
basic electronic knowledge. The subtractor is the trickier of the
two as you need to set up a reference voltage equal to that of
the control stick when it's at neutral. Somebody posted a Tx V-tail
mixer quite a while ago that used this principle (same circuit, just
different channels mixed). If that person is still on the net perhaps
they could repost the circuit. Failing that, and if there is interest,
I could post my circuit. However I must point out that I didn't get
around to building it (not because I didn't think it would it work,
but because I ended up using my computer radio for that model instead).


Chris Kaiser

Postgrad, Elec. Eng. Dept.
University of Canterbury
Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu  (Roger Wilfong)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Vacuum bagging
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993  10:21 edt
Organization: UofM Hospitals
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: robin.hosp.med.umich.edu
X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0

In Article <1993Jan21.064651.17639@klaava.Helsinki.FI> "linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)" says:
> If this vacuum resservoir is a bottle you suck vacuum into,
> it's very useful. I've built my vacuum bagging system from a
> used fridge compressor and a pressurized brake-air bottle from
> a truck, and the bottle makes all the difference. The pump
> does not have to suck all the time, even if you had a tiny
> leak in the vacuum bag.
> 
> Tapio Linkosalo
> 
> 
I am ignorant of the specifics of vacuum bagging.  I assume it involves 
placing a casting of fiberglass lay-up into a bag and sucking the air out -
along with air bubbles in the resin.  But what is the set up?
 
Are there any good overview, how-to and build-your-own articles on the topic?
 
- Roger