HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 93 07:23:32 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
Distribution: usa

carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl) writes:


>>I can understand the balancing part, in fact I'm going to take a look to
>>see if I require some modifications myself, BUT how can you bring half
>>your house into darkness?  I only have 1 main breaker at the top of the box.
>>Do you mean that the unbalanced side will trip all breakers on that side?

>Most of these "Main Breakers" have both side tied together (with a
>little bar going across both breakers) so if one "half" trips, they
>both trip.  I've never seen "half" of a house going out.

By Code, the breakers must be interconnected so that both trip when one
does.  One-legging is not an issue with code-compliant installations.
Older installations that have main fuses DO have a concern.

Of much greater concern is the possibility of the neutral opening.
Neutrals tend to get treated with less 'respect' by electricians.
Just cram that "ground" wire in there any old where.  If the neutral
does open, the side with the lowest current draw will have the 
most voltage across it.  Things tend to get damaged pretty quickly.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Dish washers available that run on 120Volts????
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 10:20:55 GMT

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
: In article <1992Dec26.003602.26877@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
: 
: >Nope. Additions to the panel would have to meet current code. Dishwashers
: >are not that old. If my reading of the code is correct, to install a
: >220v dishwasher onto a system that uses fuses, a person would have to use
: >a 220v fuse, or install a subpanel with a 220v breaker.
: 
: We had a dishwasher in my house since the early 50s - in short, they *are*
: that old. Also - as far as I know, there's no such thing as a "220 volt fuse".
: You drive a 220 volt appliance with two standard fuses. Any ganging of the
: two is accomplished by the fuse box, not the fuse.

Yep - it would be two fuses - one in each hot lead. Sorry, I should have been
more explicit. As you state, they would be ganged at the fusebox.

Bill
From: jdschnitzer@mv.com (Jeff Schnitzer)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: x10 interface for Macintosh
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 08:56:07 EST
Reply-To: jdschnitzer@schmac.mv.com
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v4


In article <1992Dec21.235052.21360@novell.com> (misc.consumers.house), bradley@novell.com (Brad Soe) writes:
  >  I saw this item at a junk surplus store and on the package it states that 
  >  it is for a Mac 512K. 
  >
The serial port connector is the old DB-9 rather than the newer mini-DIN.
You'll need an adapter cable.  The latest software for the Mac X-10
interface I know of is version 2.2, you might need to upgrade though
if I recall I had no trouble going from a MacPlus to a IIsi then a
Quadra 950 (now System 7.0.1 dot).

------------------------------------------------------------------------
--  Jeff Schnitzer         |  Internet: jdschnitzer@schmac.mv.com     --
--  9 Brook Drive          |            jdschnitzer@uscore.mv.com     --
--  Hudson, NH 03051-5103  |  GEnie:    JDSCHNITZER (checked weekly)  --
--   ->-> CARPE DIEM <-<-  |  Voice:    (603) 880-9121                --
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dcole@ua.d.umn.edu (david cole)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Zoned heat
Date: 24 Dec 1992 07:55:47 -0600
Organization: University of Minnesota, Duluth
NNTP-Posting-Host: ua.d.umn.edu

In article <1992Dec21.104535.1@tesla.njit.edu> sjo2693@tesla.njit.edu writes:
>Is it possible to have zoned heat with a one pipe steam system,if so
>what must be done to achieve this?


You can have zoned heat with any type of system.  

Steam heat in a multistory building is not likely a good candidate, however,
because if the zoning is intended to such that each floor is a zone, the
pipes are probably not set up for that (vertical risers serve all floors, so
you can't easily send steam to one floor without sending it to all).  

The ease of modifying a system depends on how it is originally piped up.  My
house has two steam loops; one serves the north side of the house (all
floors), the other, no surprise, the south side.  It would be possible to put
a valve in either of the loops and shut it off.

On the other hand, I just shut off the radiators in rooms I am not using.
One of the advantages of steam heat is that radiators can be shut off
COMPLETELY, whereas in a water system you run the risk (real, as a colleague
can atest) of a radiator freezing and cracking, dumping water all over
creation.  It is no doubt possible to automate the valves on each radiator,
but I have never seen the motorized valves to do this (please let me know if
you have!)

This idea occurred to me: put a small cheap solenoid valve on the air vent of
the radiator.  If air can't get out of the radiator when steam comes up, it
will not heat up (much).  The valves could be low voltage and wiring run down
the steam pipes, or they could be controlled by X-10 (and ultimately the
computer interface or a timer).  I have seen valves in surplus catalogs that
might work for around $5.  Best if they have the 1/8 inch pipe fittings that
would allow a direct fit to the radiator.  


Cheers,

Dave
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: james@wrs.com (James Moore)
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Reply-To: james@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 20:04:34 GMT

majidi@rwja.umdnj.edu (Masoud Majidi) writes:

>I just bought a house and was wondering if the points that I paid on my
>mortgage are tax-deductible. I asked my lawyer but he wasn't sure.

Your accountant should be able to tell you.  If not, the toll-free
information number for the IRS is 800-829-1040.  There's a booklet 
available that explains how home ownership affects your taxes.

(As far as I know, the answer is that "points" are in fact considered
interest on the mortgage, and are tax deductable if it's a mortgage on
your primary residence.  But don't rely on my tax advice when you can 
get advice from people who know what they're talking about.)

-- 
James Moore                            /|\                        james@wrs.com
Wind River Systems                     \|/                  Alameda, California
	 "Half of what he said meant something else, and the other half
			  didn't mean anything at all"
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Re: Insulation cutting tool?
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 16:57:00 GMT

In article <1hnrc6INNal0@usenet.pa.dec.com> skk@gsg.pa.dec.com (Stuart
Kreitman) writes:
>What's a good,cheap tool for cutting insulation?

In article <1992Dec29.131127.23572@nrtpa038.bnr.ca> Sparky responds:
>I use a razor knife -- not scraper, but knife ($3.00).  Turn the insulation 
>paper-side up on a scrap board.  Compress the insulation as you cut it.

Having just insulated all exterior walls and a bunch of interior walls
for my new DIY house, I can concur with the razor/utility knife
recommendation.  However, I found that the kraft facing tore when I
cut R-19 batts face up.  So, I cut 'em face down, fuzz up on a scrap
board; worked 1st cut, every cut, no problem.

FYI, some folk have recommend a ginsu knife instead of a utility knife.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: high-density insulation?
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:07:34 GMT

Typical fiberglass batt insulation for 2x4 walls is R-11 and for 2x6 walls
R-19.  I noticed on the bags of pink stuff which I recently bought and
installed that the dimensions indicated a height ("loft," if you wish)
greater than actual wall depth (3.5" and 5.5", respectively).  There have
been discussions in this newsgroup in the past as to whether you actually
get R-11 or R-19 once the batts get squashed in by sheathing/drywall
(altho I do not recall the final concensus, if any).

Which leads me to two questions:
1) I noticed R-13 insulation for 2x4 walls.  Is the +2 increment in R factor
   actually realized?  If so, anyone know what's different about 'em?
2) CertainTeed claims they have R-15 for 2x4 walls and R-21 for 2x6 walls
   via "High Density" insulation.  Anyone have experience with these?
   Do they work?  Is the cost increase linear to the R-factor increase?

I note that CertainTeed has R-30 and R-38 "HighDensity" batts with less
loft than others, permitting an air space in cathedral ceiling applications.
I also note that they have "sound control" insulation.  I wonder if this
is *really* different that std stuff, or if it is just a rename gimmick so
they can improve their margin.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
From: sjo2693@tesla.njit.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Zoned heat
Date: 21 Dec 92 15:45:35 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology

Is it possible to have zoned heat with a one pipe steam system,if so
what must be done to achieve this?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: douglis@chimay.MITL.COM (Fred Douglis)
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Organization: /u/douglis/.organization
Date: 23 Dec 92 10:59:16
Comments: Hyperbole mail buttons accepted, v3.06.

>>>>> On 23 Dec 92 14:18:05 GMT, majidi@yoko.rutgers.edu (Masoud Majidi) said:

    Masoud> I just called the toll free number of IRS (800) 829-1040
    Masoud> and was told the following:

    Masoud> For conventional mortgages if you have paid the points out
    Masoud> of your pocket (I didn't know that there was another way
    Masoud> of paying anything) if you use the house as your primary
    Masoud> residence and if your income is below $102,xxx then the
    Masoud> points are fully duductible in the year purchase was made.

Just to elaborate on this:

I was concerned by this comment since it was the first I heard of a
limit on the deductibility, so I too called IRS.  The explanation I
heard was that the points may be fully deductible, but your income
affects how much of your total deductions you can actually use.  The
more you earn over the $102K threshold, the more they chip away at
deductions.
--
Fred Douglis
Matsushita Information Technology Laboratory  | Email: douglis@mitl.com
182 Nassau Street			      | Phone: +1 609 497-4600
Princeton, NJ 08542 USA 		      | Fax:   +1 609 497-4013
From: tdelahunty@gems.vcu.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas Logs (Was Re: Maybe you can get FREE gas logs!) 
Date: 27 Dec 92 22:53:16 -0400
Organization: Medical College of Virginia




 
 
 
        Hello!  
 
        I am in the process of purchasing a pellet-fired fireplace insert 
        for my 3 year old wood frame construction 3200 Sq. Ft. two-story 
        home.
 
        My questions and concerns include:
 
               1. What type of inspection and preparation of the existing 
        fireplace is warranted?  We have burned about 20 fires per winter 
        over the last 3 years and have done no maintenance to the chimney 
        so far.
 
               2. How significant is the Carbon Monoxide risk from this 
        type of stove, and what needs to be done to eliminate it?
 
               3. Should I have the exhaust pipe taken up the full height 
        of the chimney, or just a few feet past the damper and sealed 
        around it at damper level, as the installer suggests?
 
               Overall, I have been impressed with the efficiency and 
        apparent safety of pellet stoves, but maybe I have been taken in by 
        advertising!
 



               Any comments and discussion will be appreciated!
 
                                     T.Delahunty
> Yes.   If Sparky has cracks in the flue he should have them
> repaired before burning anything in the fireplace. Not only
> will a breach in the integrity of the flue lining cause heat
> to escape, but also carbon monoxide and other toxic and/or
> dangerous gases will escape into the living area. At least I'd
> buy one of those CO monitors seen on TV (looks like a fuzzy
> button, changes color when exposed to CO) and put it in rooms
> adjacent to the chimney. 
> I'm a professional firefighter, so believe me when I say this
> is a serious problem. 
> (BTW, creosote doesn't build up in cracks, it sort of condenses
> on the walls of the chimney. It does leak out the cracks, tho.)
> 
> -- 
>         Ed Shanks      af905@yfn.ysu.edu
> "Whattaya mean I'll be cut off in 5 minutes? I just got started!"
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 93 23:28:55 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

jeffj@panix.com (Jeff Jonas) writes:

>2 phases are delivered to your house.  If they're 120 degrees
>out of phase, you get 208 volts across the lines.
>If they're 180 degrees out of phase, you get 240 volts across
>the lines.  This matters only if you have some non-120 volt circuits
>for large appliances (such as electrical clothes dryers).

Two phase power is NOT delivered to a residence.  Ever.
Two phase, requiring 4 wires, is obsolete and has been for 50 years.
Bringing three phase power into this discussion only clouds the issue.
120/208 3 phase, 4 wire is only seen in residential and very large
residenses requiring more than about 10 tons of AC and is irrelevant to
the question ask.  (To clairify that issue now that it has been
brought up, the service is named what it is because there is 120 volts
phase to ground and 208 volts phase to phase in a star-connected,
grounded common power feed situation)  The power delivered to ordinary
residental and small business service is single phase, 120/240 volt,
center tapped to ground service.

>In the worst case, you're placing your power demand on one output of
>the transformer feeding your house instead of spreading it to
>two outputs.  It's this stressing of the utility's equipment
>that the electric company dislikes.

Not particularly.  The transformer is sized according to the number of
residences connected.  Each residence is nominally worth 48 KVA and
that is what the transformer is sized for.  As long as neither leg
exceeds its rated current, the transformer could care less.  The issues
are, as I noted in my previous post, how the neutral wire is handled.
It is frequently relatively carelessly terminated and sometimes smaller
than the main legs.  Current in this neutral should be minimized.

john
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: pj04781@austin.lockheed.com (pj04781)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: I was dive bombed by a bat!
Date: 23 Dec 92 04:19:52 GMT
Organization: "Lockheed Austin Division, 6800 Burleson Rd, Austin, TX 78744

In article <1992Dec17.234448.2382@advtech.uswest.com> jsims@uswest.com (John Sims) writes:
>
>Peacefully sitting in my family room last night my head was suddenly buzzed
>by a brown flying creature.  At first I thought it was a bird, but then I
>realized that this is December in Colorado and there are no birds.
>
>Anyway if there are any net.bat.experts out there, I'm wondering:

< questions deleted >

>5) Any other info on bats that might be interesting or relevant.
>
>thanks,
>John Sims

I'm not a bat expert, but bats are harmless. They eat many times their 
weight in flying insects each night. It is odd for them to be out in 
cold weather as they are warm-blooded creatures that usually hibernate
or migrate for the winter, depending on the species. For more information
on bats and their role in the ecosystem, you can write:

   Bat Conservation International
   P.O. Box 162603
   Austin, TX 78716-2603  U.S.A

They have some interesting and informative literature and pointers to
other reference materials for those who want it.

Cheers,
frank
-- 
Frank G. Smith	( frank@austin.lockheed.com ) *Help eradicate multi-line sigs*
From: jdavidso@teknowledge.com (Jim Davidson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Help! Quick! The Appliance Gods are Retaliating Against Me!
Date: 29 Dec 92 16:02:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: /home/users/jdavidso/.organization
In-reply-to: sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com's message of 29 Dec 92 07:32:20 EST

In article <1992Dec29.123220.5933@cbfsb.cb.att.com> sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (scott.d.brenner) writes:

> Upon opening my freezer this morning to get some ice, I discovered that
> things weren't as cold as they should be.  The ice had started to melt,
> and my hamburgers and hot dogs were getting mushy.  I checked the
> refrigerator compartment next, and things in there didn't seem very
> cold either.  I'm sure the doors to both compartments were closed, the
> temperature settings are OK, and we didn't have a power failure last
> night.  My refrigerator/freezer is a GE and not even 5 years old.

You may be in luck.  The symptoms sound like a failed compressor; at least,
those are the symptoms we had with our ~5-yr old GE when the compressor went.
Apparently there was a general problem with that particular compressor.

I say you may be in luck, because GE replaces them for free for any units that
are within the 5-year warranty period, which was true in our case (barely).
In our case, the service man didn't even do any trouble-shooting; as
soon as we described the problem, he replace the compressor, and all was well.

I've heard that they offer a reduced rate for new compressors on units that
are out of warranty, but I've never had to check that out.

Anyway, you can call one of the GE numbers (e.g., the GE Answer Center,
or 1-800-GE-CARES), and talk to them about it.  Note that you have them
send a service person out, and it's not a covered problem, you'll
end up paying.  GE service people aren't especially cheap; in this case,
it's probably worth it.

-Jim
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Relining your flue.
Keywords: chimney flue furnace
Date: 23 Dec 92 19:31:21 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <wnk.724716684@aquifer.geology.uiuc.edu> wnk@aquifer.geology.uiuc.edu (Walter Kreiling) writes:
>
>We had the chimney sweep out last week to clean the flue and inspect it.
>He confirmed what the inspector (who inspected the house before we
>closed on it, which was 1 year ago) told us, that is that the flue coming
>from the furnace and the water heater needed to be relined.  They gave
>me an estimate of ~$1900.00 for the job.  

I stopped reading right there.

My father just had this done two weeks ago.
Prices.

Aluminum liner, installed $300
stainless liner, installed $400
tile liner, installed $500

He did one in al and one in tile.

You can also get a formed fiberglass-concrete, and a ss box section
liner.  I got an estimate for box formed 316 0.060 stainless for my hose.
Ten dollars a foot.

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rel@bonedust.id.macsch.com (Rob Lentz)
Subject: FOR SALE - SALTILLO TILE
Reply-To: rel@macsch.com
Organization: MSC
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 17:57:08 GMT

   SALTILLO TILE FOR SALE

     Primo Saltillo tile
   950 tiles 11-1/2"x11-1/2", $1.45 each
  1200 tiles  8-1/2"x 8-1/2", $ .85 each

  These are the highest quality Saltillo tiles made.  They are the ones
  with the round edges.  The tiles are new and in excellent condition.
  I purchased them to install for a friend, and the deal on his house
  fell through.  I will sell all or part.

  Typical installation of these tiles (interior or exterior) should cost
  approx. $2.50 per square foot, so for around $4.00 to $4.25 per square
  foot total,  you can have a beautiful and very durable floor or patio.

  I am in the Los Angeles area, and will deliver these for gas expense.
  Please e-mail me if interested, or if you have any questions.

*************************************************************************
 Rob Lentz                      
 rel@bonedust.id.macsch.com
*************************************************************************

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: Sparky
Subject: Re: Insulation cutting tool?
Summary: Re: Insulation cutting tool?
Organization: None
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 13:11:27 GMT

In article <1hnrc6INNal0@usenet.pa.dec.com> skk@gsg.pa.dec.com (Stuart
Kreitman) writes:
>
>What's a good,cheap tool for cutting insulation?

I use a razor knife -- not scraper, but knife ($3.00).  Turn the insulation 
paper-side up on a scrap board.  Compress the insulation as you cut it.

--Sparky


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house