HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bboerner@novell.com (Brendan B. Boerner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Honda Civic dies suddenly when starting
Keywords: Honda Civic die start
Date: 10 Nov 92 17:08:43 GMT
Reply-To: bboerner@novell.com (Brendan B. Boerner)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Novell, Inc. --Austin

Hello,

I've got an '89 Honda Civic LX which this weekend started doing
something odd - when starting it, it'll catch, run for a second or so
and then immediately die.  It doesn't chug, chug, chug, and then die,
it just dies, sort of like if I were spraying Starting fluid in there
- as soon as it burns the bit you sprayed in there, and it isn't
getting gas or whatever, it just dies.

Anyway, it hasn't been doing it consistently although each time it's
happened, it's been sitting for sometime (overnight for instance).
Otherwise it seems fine - I drove back from Dallas to Austin Sunday
night with no problems.

Any ideas?

If no ideas, any ideas on how to handle this with the dealer or other
mechanic?  Should I wait until it happens every morning before taking
it in?

Thanks,
Brendan
-- 
Brendan B. Boerner		Phone: 512/346-8380
Internet: bboerner@novell.com	MHS: bboerner@novell
Please use ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ if replying by mail exterior to Novell.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: Re: Bleed Brakes After Changing Pads?
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:20:38 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.122018.1@vax.sonoma.edu>, butler@vax.sonoma.edu writes:
> 
> I've always got away with not having to bleed the brake system after
> changing brake pads.  Is this a bad idea?  Anyone have any comments
> or info on this matter?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
  Most manufactures recomend changing the fluid every 2 years. Once a year
is better, I been going every 6-9 months or when ever the fluid turns from
clear to dark honey colored. This is not big deal with a vacumn bleeder.
It takes twenty minutes and one bottle to do this myself. I use Castrol
LMA fluid which I was informed is much more sensitive to water contamination
than regular dot-3. 

Kris

"My Datsun Roadster is a beater because that's the way I drive"

> -Bob      (butler@sonoma.edu)
> 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fwk@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (f.w.kerfoot..iii)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:57:55 GMT

From article <1992Nov11.163853.10343@infonode.ingr.com>, by lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel):
> In article <5889@airs.com>, andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans) writes:
> |> I need a tool that will allow me to bleed my brakes without an
> |> assistant to pump the brake pedal.  In my car's Haynes manual they
> 
> I've had good luck using plain ole gravity.  Remove the filler cap, and
> open the nipples.  I do one at a time.  This can take a while.  If you
> have the brakes apart, squeeze the calipers/pistons all the way in to
> force most of the fluid out of the cylinder.  Make sure that the resevoir
> is never allowed to empty.  After all the brakes are bled, pump the
> brake pedal to refill the cylinders after installing the pads/shoes and
> drums/rotors (again make sure that the resevoir doesn't empty).

A variation on this that works faster and in some cases makes the 
difference between working and not working is to apply some additional
air pressure to the top of the reservoir. In my case I obtained an
extra cap for the brake reservoir, and installed a tire valve in it
(I used the "mag wheel" type, to make installation easy). I then
bought a "clamp on" type air chuck which holds itself to the tire
valve. I apply about 20 PSI (using my shop air compressor)
to the top of the reservoir. Then just go to each valve and open it,
one at a time. The only danger, as Les mentions, is draining the
reservoir of fluid, which can happen relatively quickly.

Many variations are possible. If you can't get a spare reservoir cap,
you could fabricate a sheet metal plate and a rubber gasket (old
inner tube) with a tire valve in it, and clamp it to the top of the
reservoir. If you don't have an air compressor, some people have
used the spare tire as an air supply (there is no air flow other
than leakage). Refill the spare at the gas station after you are
done. You could use other ways to hook your air supply up to the
reservoir cap other than a tire valve. DON'T use more than 20-30 psi
or you will make a big mess.

Have fun-

Frank Kerfoot
fwk@hogpa.att.com
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 1986 Grand Am Steering Ha
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:59:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

   !@#story.  Anybody got any ideas? solutions? suggestions?

DDM!@#                            william c devine ii
   !@#reply to:
   !@#          Devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu

Rack and pinion unit going bad...


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
     
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?
Date: 11 Nov 92 00:33:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxJ08E.JDC
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Michael T. Chaffee) says:
>>
>>Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>>>
>>>What are hydraulic valve adjuster in a DOHC engine?
>>
>>In any engine that has them, the hydraulic adjusters reside at some point in
>>the linkage between cam and valve.  The adjusters are basically little
>>cylinders containing little pistons that are expanded by engine oil pressure.
>>As the valve train and valve seats wear, the adjusters expand or contract
>>to compensate for this wear and keep the valve clearances at the proper level.
>>
>>Advantages:     Zero Maintenance
>>                Silence
>>
>>Disadvantage:   Silence

>What makes them silent?  Whats wrong with silence?  Perhaps you were referring
>to the sound of a high revving DOHC engine?

Not necessarily; I still think the sound of my low-revving ohv MG engine is
pretty damn spiffy, ditto for the SOHC BMW inline-sixes.  Actually, a lot of
the pleasant valve train sound comes from the chain in the OHC engine, but you
do lose some nice sounds with hydraulic adjustors.

>Do hydraulic valve adjusters provide any other function?  I have heard of
>hydraulic lifters in OHV engines that allow the engine to use a hotter cam
>but still maintain decent low rpm drive-ability.

I don't believe they affect the actual valve behavior at all, but I could be
wrong.

>Are hydraulic valve adjusters the same as hydraulic lash adjuster?

Exactly.

>Lastly, what alternatives are there to hydraulic valve adjusters?

There are a few alternatives.  The most popular approach on OHV engines and
others that use rocker arms is a screw-type (manual) adjustment.  On BMW
engines and possibly some others, adjustment is done by rotating an eccentric
lobe that changes the tension (?) of the valve train for each valve.  On some
engines (The only ones I *KNOW* use this are some old Alfas), the owner/main-
tainer must place little metal shims between the cam follower and the valves.
Right now the hydraulic adjustors are the most popular because they are the
only type that doesn't require periodic manual adjustment.

An additional question that I have:  Does anyone know how the valves were ad-
justed on the old desmedromic valves?  I can't even remember who used this des-
ign, but I imagine that adjustment must have been a bitch!
-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Saab: shocks and squealing brakes
Date: 11 Nov 92 22:55:36 GMT
Distribution: usa

>Brian J. Young (bjy@med.unc.edu) wrote:

>: I am in the market for shocks for my 1987 Saab 900.  The car is mainly
>: used as a commuter and on trips so exotic performance shocks are not
>: necessary.  Anyone have any suggestions?

hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>As far as shocks, I would reccomend that you get OEM, as the suspension
>was tuned for them.  I think SAAB gets them from Sachs, so you could check
>into them.  You say you don't want firm shocks, so Koni's & Bilsteins are out.

There's a cheaper alternative - KYB shocks.  I installed four of them
on my '85 900 turbo several months ago, and I'm pleased with them.
The ride is pretty compliant over small pavement variations, but they
seem to firm up when hitting large bumps and pushing the handling.  I
paid $39 each for them, and I believe the OEM shocks are $80 apiece
(this was DEALER COST, not retail!).

For what it's worth, my local mechanic buddy says he has put them in
many different cars, including Cadillacs, and he claims that they're
the "best shock on the market."  They have a lifetime warranty, too.
-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
From: stnd@bohr.physics.purdue.edu (Scott N. Dickson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:17:45 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Physics Department

>|In article <Bx91Ev.91p.1@cs.cmu.edu>
>|rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
>|   On an automatic car, can one shift into drive while the car is
>|   moving?  Would it damage the transmission?
>|
>|You would really kill your transmission if, when shifting from drive
>|to neutral, you overshot neutral and hit reverse!


My sister did that to my car.  I almost killed her!
I almost always shift into neutral coasting up to a stop because the
engine pulls hard enough to require a fair deal of pedal pressure to
bring the car to a complete stop.  She had never driven the car before
and had seen me slip it into neutral and thought she'd do it.  Crunch!
Came to a complete stop from about 20 mph, killing the engine in the
process.  I've had the car out a few times since then, and it seems to
be ok.  I guess you either break it or you don't, but nothing in between.
Just my little story, worth what you paid for it....

  
Organization: Sophomore, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 21:15:52 -0500 
From: Stephen James Kendrish <sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Tire Balance

This summer, I removed the paint from my aluminum wheels and to do this,
I had to remove the lead weights that were put on when the tires were
balanced.  I was wondering if tires actually have to be balanced and
what happens if they remain without the weights.  I've also wondered
where the balancing weights are placed on the very expensive wheels?  On
the inside maybe?

Thanks

Steve
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Freon detector - info wan
Date: 9 Nov 92 16:26:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


ZZ!@#Hello,
  !@#I saw a compact Freon detector using
  !@#by a AC technician, it is quite neat
  !@#and powered by battery.
  !@#I wonder if it is available on the
  !@#market for the common users.
  !@#any info will be very much appreciated.

ZZ!@#Thanks in advance!

Absolutely! J.C. Whitney carries 'em. And I believe your CarQuest dealer
carries them too.
                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
                                                             
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: yogi@coombs.anu.edu.au (Michael Hanslip)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Date: 6 Nov 92 14:46:42 GMT
Organization: Australian National University
NNTP-Posting-Host: 150.203.76.2

merchant@cbnews.cb.att.com (shahrukh.s.merchant) writes:

>I have heard two schools of thought on whether tires should be rotated:

>   1. Front to Back only, so tires that start out on one side (left or
>      right) always stay there, or:
>   2. Front to back as well as diagonally, so that a tire ends up in all
>      4 positions eventually.

>(Forget about the complication of a spare, for the moment.)

>This is for a sub-compact front-wheel drive (Toyota Tercel) with all-
>weather radials.

>What is the wisdom of the net?

My understanding on this comes from working in a tire shop and some racing
experiences too. Some tires (mostly really high performance) are unidirectional
and thus cannot be switched from side to side. Others are asymmetric and
cannot be rotated without following the manufacturers directions.
Most however are free. I believe that early radials had big problems with
having their direction changed (ie, lefts to right), but that now this is
not a consideration.
Some people I have spoken to about this claim to have had vibration problems
from switching sides with tires, but personally I have never had any problems.
I always keep tires in pairs and rotate sets.
Thus rears become fronts and fronts rears. Or lefts become rights and rights 
lefts. Or both, left front to right rear, right rear to left front. And when I 
worked in the tire shop, I also rotated the tire on the rim, so that the inside
became the outside. This allowed for much longer life of tires with the outer
edge worn off due to hard cornering, but gave some problems with vibrations and
strange resulting wear.
I would suggest that for a Tercel, front to back is enough, and easy to do.
The rears should greatly outlast the fronts, so you could do like my sister
and use two sets of fronts and one set of rears in the same amount of time
and no rotation, or like me and rotate quite frequently and get perhaps 10%
more distance out of the 4 than the much simpler 'no rotation' method allows
for.
If any wear shows up on one set of tires (left or front), rotate them off that 
side/end.

Michael Hanslip..
--
Michael Hanslip
yogi@coombs.anu.edu.au  -  mdh410@csc.anu.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Sudden and Drastic Drop in Gas Mileage
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 20:23:18 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Maybe "winter blend" gasoline really bites it?

 Is your heat stove working/connected?
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 19:22:33 GMT

In article <BxJ08E.JDC@news.cso.uiuc.edu> mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!) writes:
>Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>
>>mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Michael T. Chaffee) says:
>>>
>>>Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>>>>
>>Lastly, what alternatives are there to hydraulic valve adjusters?
>
>There are a few alternatives.  The most popular approach on OHV engines and
>others that use rocker arms is a screw-type (manual) adjustment.  On BMW
>engines and possibly some others, adjustment is done by rotating an eccentric
>lobe that changes the tension (?) of the valve train for each valve.  On some
>engines (The only ones I *KNOW* use this are some old Alfas), the owner/main-
>tainer must place little metal shims between the cam follower and the valves.
>Right now the hydraulic adjustors are the most popular because they are the
>only type that doesn't require periodic manual adjustment.
>
>An additional question that I have:  Does anyone know how the valves were ad-
>justed on the old desmedromic valves?  I can't even remember who used this des-
>ign, but I imagine that adjustment must have been a bitch!

1. BMW 4s (2002 vintage) used an eccentric washer that could be
turned to adjust the GAP.  The washer was clamped into the rocker arm
and bore directly onto the valve stem

2. Alfa 4's, VW solid lifter 4's, Lotus 1600 Big Valve 4's and a
multitude of others use bucket tappet which are little buckets
inverted over the valve stem.  The cam lobe bears on the "bottom" of
the bucket.  Adjustment is by shims, often UNDERNEATH the bucket
requiring cam removal for access (on a 4 cam Maseratti, you don't
want to know what a valve adjustment costs).  In the VW they very
considerately put the shims on top, thank you.  Bucket tappets are
preferred because they have minimal wear and require minimal
adjustment.

I think that the minus side of hydraulic tappets USED to be float at
high RPMs, i.e. they don't follow the cam as well as they should
because of oil cavitation or whatever.  This problem seems to have
been solved or minimized in modern engines, otherwise you wouldn't
see as many people (and mfgers) willing to put up with valve
adjustment on 4v heads.

-andy


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: avila@btree.uucp (Jose Avila)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 16:54:07 GMT
Organization: Brooktree Corporation
Subject: Fuel Gauge Problems in an 82 Ford Escort
Distribution: na

I recently bought an 82 Ford Escort with various minor problems. One of
these problems is that the fuel gauge does not work correctly. If the
tank is full, the gauge works. But once you get to half a tank, the
gauge moves right down to empty. Since I just bought this car, I have no
idea how far I can go on one tank (I dont want to find out the hard
way). Does anyone have any advice as to what I can do to fix this
problem?




=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
|    _/_/_/_/  _/_/   _/_/_/_/  |   Joe Avila                |
|         _/ _/   _/ _/         |   Brooktree Corporation    |
|        _/ _/   _/ _/_/_/      |   San Diego, CA            |
|  _/   _/ _/   _/ _/           |   USA                      |
|  _/_/_/   _/_/  _/_/_/_/      |   ucsd!btree!avila         |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
| Disclaimer:   The opinions expressed in this article do    |
|               necessarily reflect those of the author      |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-- 


=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
|    _/_/_/_/  _/_/   _/_/_/_/  |   Joe Avila                |
From: ldillard@digi.lonestar.org (Tom Dillard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: cleaning chrome wheels
Date: 10 Nov 92 18:47:07 GMT
Organization: DSC Communications Corp, Plano, TX

I have a set of Cragar SS 15" wheels off of my full-size Chevy PU.
I would like to know the best way to clean the light rust off that
has developed on them.  Will WD-40 and extra-fine steel wool do it
or will this hurt the chrome too much?

Thanks for any advice.
-TD
-- 
====================================================================
 L.T. Dillard III                        ldillard@digi.lonestar.org
 DSC Communications Corporation
 1000 Coit Rd, MS 120, Plano Tx 75075
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sdb@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu (Scott D. Berry)
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: Florida State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 13:57:58 GMT

In article <1992Nov3.121946.1072@newstand.syr.edu> ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
>Here in New York, there has been some new scramble about
>"oxygenated fuels" meant for reduction in emisssions.  
>According to news sources and the local gas stations, 
>they basically are adding ethanol to the gas.  
>  Now, try this:
>
>   1.  Fuels with increased amounts of alcohol will have 
>less enegry per unit.  Therefore, the driver will see a 
>reduction in power and/or gas mileage.  So, while we 
>are techincally reducing emissions, the cars are emitting
>out more total volume of emissions due to a greater volume 
>of fuel burned.  
>       Does this really make sense?  It's just like 
>the '70s all over again; crappy MPG, no power, low
>mileage all in the name of emissions.

My info is from a report on "All Things Considered" which is 
apparently more detailed than your info.  MPG changes should be
around 3% or so, for newer cars.  For cars older than ~15 years,
MPG should actually increase.  The reduction in emissions is
greater than this, so the effect is a real change for the better,
as far as total emissions.
>  
>   2.  Why are gas prices going up?  The gas companies say 
>that it is due to the increased cost of "oxygenated fuels".
>Last time I checked, alcohol was cheaper than hydorcarbon
>fuels.  Anyone want to verify this?

You are wrong -- alcohol is more expensive than the gas.
Remember the actual cost of the gasoline is NOT the ~$1.20
you pay for it at the station.  My memory tells me that the
actual cost (out of the refinery) is closer to $.60-$.80/gal.
(or even less, since there are typically $.30 in taxes).
>
>Acutally, my car runs better on cheap-o hightest, you know, 
>the stuff that smells like a can of starting fluid.  IT's a 
>'71 Olds Cutlass with a 350.  

You might gain here.

>  What I'm really trying to say is that it's a load of BS to
>be charging more for a new form of gasoline that costs less 
>to produce than its previous form, and then to basically 
>act like they have some wonderful new formula fuel that will
>reduce emissions.  Come on folks, I've used a mixture of 
>50/50 isopropyl alcohol/gas to fool emissions tests.
>Nothing new here.......
>
You are mistaken because you do not have the facts.
How much more are the costs?  (My impression is that the increase is
~$.05/gal.)  Are you accounting for the benefits such as cleaner air
and its effect on the general public health?

>-->Bob
> ----->ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu
>
>
>

Scott D. Berry    Assistant Professor of Physics    Florida State University
315 Keen Bldg, B-159, Tallahassee, FL 32306-3016    (904) 644-1218
INTERNET:   berry@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu    BITNET:   berry@fsu
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Digital Instrument Cluste
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:59:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

SEM!@#        I have an 86' Z-24 (Yes, with the infamous 2.8L :)).
   !@#Recently, for the past 2 weeks, I've been having a problem with
   the digit !@#instrament cluster fading in and out in intensity -
   (from normal to compl !@#gone).  I was wondering if anyone else has
   had simalar problems with digi !@#guages.

SEM!@#Steve McCorry  (mccorry@cn.ecn.purdue.edu)
Sure...check the dimmer control on the light switch..that is what
controls the instrument lights intensity..just tap lightly on it and see
if display flickers...
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
  
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:05:48 GMT
Subject: Re: Suspension Queerness in '81 Civic
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

peterco@eff.org (Peter Cohen) asks in <1992Nov11.030647.28627@eff.org>:

> My Civic got into an accident this past summer, and the suspension has
> been riding really rough since then..........Could this be a tie
> rod problem?

Well, yes it could, but after an accident it could be a whole lot more besides.
Have your alignment checked, a full four wheel alignment is more expensive but
should be worth it in your case - it's cheaper than new tires anyway.  You
might also car to check wheel balance in case you bent one in the accident (you
don't mention the severity of the accident, but I guess you lived to tell the
tale ;-))

Hope this helps some (These two cents worth are my very own)
Cheers,
Steve.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech