HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Built-in steering lock on an old bike?
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:11:51 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

I was at the local tip (rubbish dumb) the other day and found an old
bike frame that intregued me.  I couldn't determine make or model,  but
it had the following features:

The forks were made of two seperate tubes each,  joined at the crown and 
the other end;
The brakes were similar to cantilevers only involved a few more pulleys;
And most interesting was the steering lock built into the frame.  This was
like having a small film cannister welded at the join between the down tube
and the headset tube (wrong term I know).

Do any netters know about such steering locks?

Jonathan.
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Tuesday, 29 Sep 1992 09:14:59 EST
From: <FDHEIENO@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Phil Wood BB, how good are they?

Before I drop $90 on a Phil Wood BB I'd like a few opinions pro or con.  Are
they just easier to service or smoother than the garden variety BB?  I don't
 the extra work of repacking but would happily upgrade for a lower friction
factor.  My current BB is a shitmano (sorry) 600.
Thanks for the input!

Dennis Weeks
dfw@physics.ucf.edu
University of Central FL
Orlando, Fl
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: goelz@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu (christopher k goelz)
Subject: Re: Cateye Micro average speed algorithm?
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 04:33:02 GMT

>[anecdotes of weird behavior from Cateye Micro average speed numbers]
>
>Although I can't remember any specifics right now, I too have noticed
>oddities like this from the average speed numbers.

On occasion I have noticed that the Cateye makes one of these unusual
fluctuations before I press the stop button.  In this case, the average
speed shown will be inaccurate.  If you cycle through all the functions
and back to average speed, the computer will recalculate the average
speed and it will be correct.

--
Chris Goelz
The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio
goelz@cis.ohio-state.edu

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: Anti-lock brakes
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 20:16:39 GMT

In article <BvJ7wH.F35@news.cso.uiuc.edu> jdg41088@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Pickaxe) writes:
>Would anti-lock brakes be possible on a bike? I know it wouldn't work in the
>same way as a car, but what about a mechanical system that would apply less
>pressure as the wheel slowed down. that way if a wheel is about to skid, the
>brake would release just enough pressure to allow it to keep turning.

When was the last time you locked up your brakes? The only times I have done
it were either in the rain or on oily surfaces.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: Bladed spokes
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 02:49:35 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.013058.6999@news.unomaha.edu> kkrueger@cwis.unomaha.edu (Kurt Krueger) writes:
>
>I don't think a person can tell if they do make a difference.  If you're
>riding into a headwind at 32 kph with oval spokes, can you tell if you are
>getting a, say, 0.3 kph boost from the spokes?  No, you only know that you
>are riding at 32 kph.  Theoretically bladed spokes do make a bit of a
>difference because round spokes are responsible for a large part of the
>bike's aerodynamic drag.  Remember that Laurent Fignon lost a Tour de
>France by 8 seconds.  You never know when that extra aero advantage will
>pay off.
>
I was just reading back through some previous posts and find that
rounds spoke add about 4 grams of drag at 25 mph while bladed spokes
add a mere 3.4 grams.

If you are a profrssional rider a couple of seconds in 40 Km makes a difference.
But if you are a recreational rider, saving 10 seconds in a days ride is
a preposterous way to spend $100.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: aviechec@dante.nmsu.edu (Alex Viechec)
Subject: Overheating brake pads
Organization: New Mexico State University, Las Cruces, NM
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 22:46:31 GMT

Is this possible?  What happens if you do this, and how much braking would
it take?  Just wondering because at the bottom of one particular decent
that I ride quite often, I can't even touch my rims they get so hot.  I 
would hate to have my brake pads to turn into a bubbling blob on a hairy
decent with a non-small dropoff on one side :)

Big Al
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: newman@otto.ycc.yale.edu (Andrew Newman)
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Organization: Yale University
Date: 29 Sep 92 12:34:20 GMT

drela@athena.mit.edu (Mark Drela) writes:

>In article <6405@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP>, jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:
>|> Dear Rec.Bicycles.Tech:
>|> 
>|> I would like some advice on chains.  Specifically, how long can one
>|> usually use the same chain?  I just read a post that said 2000 miles, but
>|> mine seem to wear out in around 500 or 600 miles.  My bike is not indexed,
>|> and is just a simple 10-speed .

>500 miles seems awful short for chain life.  Are you by any chance oiling it
>frequently on the bike when it's dirty?   This is BAD NEWS for chain life, 
>as Jobst Brandt pointed out a while back.  I know.  After I stopped oiling
>dirty chains, my chain life increased at least 5x.  BTW, I use Hyperglide
>and Sedisport chains.  I don't know about "approved Schwinn chains".

Ok...we've seen quite a bit on this topic over the last few months so I'm
sure many of you are rolling your eyes given that the subject has come up
once more.  Perhaps the problem is that a good number of people seem to
offer "partial" advice regarding chain maintenance.  This leads to more
and more questions.  In the r.b faq, there is a complete description
by Jobst regarding chain cleaning and lubrication.  This article convinced
me that the only way to get a chain *really* clean was to remove it and
soak it in solvent.  Fine.  I've recently taken to purchasing synthetic
oils to lubricate my chain.  (Pedros and Finish Line Century).  These
manufacturers insist that the correct way to use their product is to
clean the chain with *WATER* only.  Whaddaya do?  Do I soak my chain in
water?  I doubt that this would have the cleansing properties of a solvent
soak.  My ritual thus far has been to use water and toothbrushes to
get most of the grit off.  I then relube with one of the aforementioned
products.  Thus far (one season) I haven't had any significant chain wear
that I would call unusual.

Perhaps it would be useful for those with more experience than me to
post *complete* specs on their chain maint. ritual(s).  Include the
frequency and type of maintenance.  The solvent (if any) used, the method(s),
lubrication types etc...

If you wish to share this information but (in your wisdom) believe that
it would be an unwarranted waste of net-bandwidth, mail the information
to me and I promise I'll summarize to the net.


*  ===\  |===|  ===\  *========================================================
*  |       |    |  |  *                 -Andrew Newman                        *
*  |==|    |    |==/  *                  C&IS Systems Technology & Planning   *
*     |    |    |     *                  Yale University                      *
*  \===    |    |     *                  (newman-andy@yale.edu)               *
*---------------------*========================================================
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: cathyf@is.rice.edu (Catherine Anne Foulston)
Subject: Re: Why no cantilevers on racing bikes?
Organization: Rice University
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 05:29:55 GMT

In article <6459@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> broadley@lrdc5 (Bill Broadley) writes:

>>Caliper brakes are much simpler to adjust than cantilever
>>brakes. This is most likely the most important reason. Centering
>>a caliper brake takes a couple of seconds with a cone wrench,

I dunno if I was doing it wrong, or if it was just that I had cheap
brakes.  I find my cantilevers much easier to adjust than the
sidepulls I once had.  True, it took about two seconds to center the
sidepull.  Then when you used it, it pulled to the side (well what did
I expect from a sidepull) and stuck that way, with one pad dragging
on the rim.  If I tightened the bolt enough to prevent that, you
couldn't operate the brake.  It seemed to me that there must be a
better way to do the mounting that would prevent this, and perhaps
this is the case with brakes that cost as much as the bike I had the
sidepulls on.  Anyway that wasn't really what I was going to post
about...

>Also don't need silly
>little guides on the brake shoes to help the tire past.

Never having raced or even had good brakes that come with those
guides, I was really wondering about this.  I couldn't figure out what
those little things were for.  I guessed to guide the tire in, but
most of the brakes I'd seen these on had quick-releases which I would
have though would make the guides unnecessary (otherwise having a
quick-release seems sort of pointless).  I thought of posting here but
decided to ask at the bike shop instead.  I was told that the qr is
perfectly adequate for most people, but some hardcore racers don't
want to have to take the extra seconds to use the qr -- they want to
slam the wheel in and out without the qr and for that they need the
little guides.

Like I said, I wouldn't know.  Opinions?

	Cathy
-- 
Cathy Foulston + Rice University + Network & Systems Support + cathyf@rice.edu
From: Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Date: 28 Sep 92 12:44:50 GMT
 <1992Sep27.031420.10955@dartvax.dartmouth.edu>  
 <1992Sep27.101617.1383@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

In article <1992Sep27.101617.1383@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu>
webel@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu writes:

> what is the big deal about 3500 km, that can be well under a year's 
> worth of riding.  I would probably replace the chain at that point, 
> but a freewheel should hold up longer than 3500km, unless you mountain 
> bikers really do thrash equipment that bad.  I'm a roadie, so if I am 
> of base I am sorry.  Replacing the chain frequently is more important 
> because a worn chain will wear out freewheels and chainrings faster, 
> or at least that is what I am told.
> 
> baird
> webel@guvax.georgetown.edu

I've never had a hyperglide cassette hold up for that many miles/km
without losing the crispness of the shifts.  I do think we can assume
that we mountain bikers thrash our stuff a little more than the road
bikers.  With that in mind, it is a good idea to hold onto your old
cassettes for comparison as dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no said so.

If it is generally accepted within the mountain biking community to
change your chain and freewheel every year (depending on mileage-of
course) then maybe the road bikers should do the same.  Road bikers
cover much more mileage although that mileage might be less straining
on the equiptment.  All in all, if you have properly adjusted
derailleurs and you do not have shifts as crisp as before, you can
blame the chain and cassette.

gen.kanai@dartmouth.edu
From: bcripe@hpcvusc (Brian E. Cripe)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Bianchi MTBs
Date: 2 Oct 92 20:29:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvusn.1992Oct2.202951.11954
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

> If anyone owns a Bianchi MTB (especially the Peregrine), I'd love to
> hear some comments.  Also, if anyonw knows of Bianchi MTB dealer
> within a 100 miles of Boston, I'd like to hear about it.

My neighbor had a Bianchi Grizzly that was ~5 years old.  This summer
he cracked the frame.  Bianchi wanted to give him a replacement frame
of comparable quality to his old one, but he held out for a new
Grizzly frame (which is now much nicer -- Tange Prestige tubing I
think).  After many phone calls Bianchi finally caved him and gave him
the new Grizzly frame he wanted.

I thought it spoke well of Bianchi's customer service.  

	Brian Cripe
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: side by side tandem
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 01:14:38 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.090242.55631@qut.edu.au>
heard@qut.edu.au writes:
 
>In article <dangold1.717528039@vincent1.iastate.edu>, dangold1@iastate.edu
>(Daniel M Goldman) writes:
>> I am not an engineer, folks, but perhaps some of you will
>> comment.
>> You've read about side-by-sides before, but this might be
>> new.
>>
>>    I propose that two totally independent bicycles could be made
>> so that they can be linked together, with certain bracket or clamp
>> members built or desiged in.
>>
>
>Interesting idea, but may I make a comment which is not
>totally facetious: it wouldn't be a tandem.
>
>The word "tandem" comes from a pun. It is the Latin
>word for "at length" in a chronological sense, applied
>as a pun originally to the arrangement of two horses
>pulling a carriage one behind the other (as opposed to
>the more normal side by side arrangement). Later the
>word was applied to bicycles for two riders, one behind
>the other.
>
>I can't work out an equivalent pun for the side by side
>arrangement.
>
>There is a magnificent side by side bicycle in the
>Science Museum in London. It was called a "double
>jumper", because the two riders had to jump on it
>simultaneously. The museum notes say that such bikes
>were the inspiration for the song "Daisy, Daisy"
>
>Take care -- and good luck with your project.
>Ronno
 
I have heard such "side by sides" called "Sociables" and have seen
reproductions of some old advertisements calling them such.
From: drela@athena.mit.edu (Mark Drela)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Date: 29 Sep 92 00:59:24 GMT
Article-I.D.: athena.1992Sep29.005924.11448
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology

In article <6405@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP>, jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:
|> Dear Rec.Bicycles.Tech:
|> 
|> 	I would like some advice on chains.  Specifically, how long can one
|> usually use the same chain?  I just read a post that said 2000 miles, but mine
|> seem to wear out in around 500 or 600 miles.  My bike is not indexed, and is 
|> just a simple 10-speed.  

500 miles seems awful short for chain life.  Are you by any chance oiling it
frequently on the bike when it's dirty?   This is BAD NEWS for chain life, 
as Jobst Brandt pointed out a while back.  I know.  After I stopped oiling
dirty chains, my chain life increased at least 5x.  BTW, I use Hyperglide
and Sedisport chains.  I don't know about "approved Schwinn chains".

                   Mark Drela
             _______________________________
    o/LO  .' 
     O  .'  Gravity-Powered Technologies Lab 
      .'  MIT Aero-Astro Department  33-214
     '
From: RADDAMSW@LIVERPOOL.AC.UK
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: : Do frames wear out?
Date: 29 Sep 92 10:40:29 GMT
 <g9sn#7q.tomk@netcom.com> <MARKT.92Sep25105854@wundt.harlqn.co.uk>
 <1992Sep25.131555.11288@geovision.gvc.com>
Organization: University of Liverpool

In article <1992Sep25.131555.11288@geovision.gvc.com>, pt@geovision.gvc.com
(Paul Tomblin) says:
>
>markt@harlqn.co.uk (Mark Tillotson) writes:
>
>>I suspect pros change their frames to avoid them failing from fatigue
>>at a critical moment...  I was lucky when my front forks sheared on
>
>And I suspect pros change their frames so that they will be seen on this
>years model of their sponsor's bike.  One frequent form of sponsorship
>(especially for amateurs) is "All the equipment you can eat" - ie. here's 10
>different frames - make sure you're seen using as many of these as you can
>fit in.  I'm sure the pros get a similar deal, plus money.
>

I just read an interview with Stephen Roche, who was asked tis very question
about bikes from sponsors. Apparently he gets a new one every January, and then
it is changed (he doesn't get to keep them) before every major Tour he competes
in, so he said he gets upwards of four or five new bikes a year.

If only someone could give me one of his 'old' ones. Where do they all go if
he can't keep them ?

Steve JW.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: Anti-lock brakes
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 11:50:14 GMT

In article <BvJ7wH.F35@news.cso.uiuc.edu> jdg41088@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Pickaxe) writes:
>Would anti-lock brakes be possible on a bike? I know it wouldn't work in the
>same way as a car, but what about a mechanical system that would apply less
>pressure as the wheel slowed down. that way if a wheel is about to skid, the
>brake would release just enough pressure to allow it to keep turning.

  Its been done.  You have an almost normal rear brake that is hooked to your
one brake lever.  The difference is that the brake and be pulled by the wheel
due to drag-rotation.  The wheel-pulling-the-brake in turn pulls on the front
brake.  Then all you have to do is get the front/rear braking curves setup
so that your rear will lock first.  Or you could figure out a similar
type of mechanism for the front that releases but it would not be very good
because you don't actually need a locked wheel to loose control.  Under hard
braking you have a slip between the wheel and ground (ie wheel speed < ground
speed but wheel_speed != 0); and you can still have a rotating wheel that
looses contact enough to put you out of control.
  If I remember correctly the first Porshe with ABS that was crashed left
something like 200' of spin/slip (not skid) marks.  Unfortunately a bike
rider will have a hard time staying upright under such conditions esp. in
winter riding where any slip of the front will put you down.
  - Eric 

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: aberigan@nde.unl.edu (A. Berigan)
Subject: Bottle cages -- anyone else not use them?
Organization: Ord High School, Ord, NE
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 20:26:34 GMT

Is there anyone other than me out there that doesn't like bottle cages?

I've tried two different types of cages.  One got mangled in my pedals,
and the other I ended up using to help keep my U-lock in place (flying
out).  For me, they just don't hold enough for me to bother.  I prefer
those containers you can get at a Kwik Shop or Pump & Pantry or other
similar location that provide refills of beverages.

I found something called a "Car Window Mug Holder" which worked nicely.
Made of plastic, it has an adjustable diameter and an opening for a mug
handle in the front of it.  First I had one mounted on the front of the
bike at the handlebars.  Then I went with installing one on either side
of my carry rack on the back of the bike.  Then I got two 46oz
containers, added a little friction tape on each, as well as on the
holders, a couple tie-downs, and I could ride and have 92oz of water or
whatever available.

Now that I found some containers which have large tops and bottoms, but
a narrow neck, I don't need to worry about the mug holders breaking on
me (gone through 4 already).  Two tie-downs each, and I can carry those
2 32oz containers with only slightly denting the containers.

Has anyone else out there created similar devices?

--   o
    /\_
---P\--~\_
P")=/-'_(`)__
~~~~~~~~~~~~~aberigan@nde.unl.edu (Greg Berigan)
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: how to patch a tube--cheap
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:45:22 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <1992Oct3.200159.4178@netcom.com>, tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H.
Kunich) wrote:

> What's wrong with the patch kits you can buy in any bicycle shop for
> $2.00? After you use up the present kit you can use the box indefinitely
> by buying new patches and the little glue capsules that have one flat's
> worth of glue in them. Since every capsule is opened fresh they never dry
> up.

Cool!  Where do you get those glue capsules?

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: troc@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (John A Savage)
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Summary: advantages etc 
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 17:30:54 GMT

I would just like to point out that when McCarthy won the worlds, he was
riding against a bike designed for Chris Broadman, not the guy ( I forget
his name) who rode the bike. Chris Broadman won the olympics.......

Whilst all this aero gear won't make a normal rider win all, It does give
certain pros the advantage they need to win. On a normal tt course, aero
bars give 2-3 mph better average speed. The advantages of aero wheels can
bee measured in a few seconds over a 50 mile tt. If you add up all the
time saved, using everything avaliable (helmet, skinsuit, areo wheels/frame
.titanium etc) will give perhaps a minute. If you are up with the best, then
its worth it, otherwise, just pose............

have a happy time on yer bike,


John

PS the opinions expressed here were just that!
From: eugene@ksr.com (Eugene Yi-jen Pan)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Helmets - keeping a cool head
Date: 2 Oct 92 10:09:14 EDT
	<1992Sep28.235812.19456@leland.Stanford.EDU>
	<casseres-011092155203@missmolly.apple.com>
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Distribution: na
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA
In-reply-to: casseres@apple.com's message of 1 Oct 92 18:58:21 EDT

In article <casseres-011092155203@missmolly.apple.com> casseres@apple.com (David Casseres) writes:
> AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> The color of a helmet affects the absorption and emission of radiant energy
> *at the surface of the helmet*.  Nowhere else.  Now, between the surface of
> the helmet and the surface of your head is an inch to an inch and a half of
> expanded polystyrene foam.  How much heat do you think the foam conducts? 
> Do any of you guys seriously think the absorption and emission at the
> helmet surface can possibly make *any* detectable difference to the
> wearer's head???
> 
> The whole issue of helmets making your head hot is bogus anyway, in my
> opinion.  There have been tests measuring the temperature of a rider's
> scalp with and without a helmet, and finding no significant difference.
> 

I keep hearing this same old statistic, but it just can't be true.  I was
wearing a helmet at night (no sun radiation), and I was sweating profusely.  I
removed my helmet and I was not sweating prufusely.  I define profusely as
faster than evaporation.  With the helmet on, sweat was constantly running in my
eyes.  Without a helmet, I never even noticed how much I was sweating.  

The bottom line is the ambient temperature or whatever they are measuring might
be very similar helmeted and not helmeted, but in reality there is a huge
difference in overall comfort.