HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos

I know of one person that is insured through Nationwide and they have had
some interesting complaints.  For every accident that was "the other person's
fault", Nationwide did not go after the other insurance carrier but instead
fixed the car and raised the premium.  Seems the adjuster just didn't want to
go out of their way to do any work!

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu (Karl Nordstrom)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: early GM large disp fwd cars
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:33:17 GMT
Organization: Penn State University

>no transaxle. Long(itudinally) mounted engine w/standard GM automatic
>attached;
>the power (was) fed back (to the) front via two shafts running along the
>engine to joints up front. big mess.

Awh, their part way to being a awd car.  I guess that they don't have
a tunnel to the rear axial large enough for a drive shaft.

With two shafts from the trany to the front axial I would guess that they
had equal length front drive shafts.  That would account for the lack of
torque steer.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune)
Subject: Re: Help in Car Repair 
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 92 03:15:09 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

As far as damage from the timing chain goes, it depends.  What can happen is
the valves can hit the top of the piston (presumably when you tried starting
it), which can bend the valves.  Some cars have enough valve-to-piston
clearance, though, where you don't have to worry about it.  The best thing
to do is have someone pressurize each of the cylinders with both valves
closed (you hope), and see if you have any leaks.  If you do, depending on
where the air is leaking to, you've probably bent a valve.  If not, then
all you need to do is replace the timing chain (part costs about $15 - note:
don't skip on cheap stuff here.  Buy a Goodyear, Gates, Lazorlite, Beck/
Arnley, or other reputable brand).  Timing BELT, that is.  Anyway, the labor
may kill you, though...

-- 
-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]
From: cspas151@eursus (P.W. Wijsman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: The stats on the new BMW 318is
Summary: Some numbers on the 318is coupe
Keywords: BMW, 318is
Date: 10 Apr 92 09:21:34 GMT
Organization: Erasmus Universiteit Rotterdam
Originator: news@mailgate.eur.nl

BMW Coupe technical specifications
==================================

Someone asked about the new BMW 318is coupe, here are the figures.
I have added figures on the 320i and 325i coupe models to compare
with the 318is.

                     318is              320i                325i
# cilinders/capacity 4/1796 cm^3        6/1991 cm^3         6/2494 cm^3
power at 1/min       103 kW/140 hp/6000 110 kW/150 hp/5900  141 kW/192 hp/5900
topspeed             213 km/h           214 km/h (214 km/h) 233 km/h (231 km/h)
0-100 km/h           10,2s              10,0s (11,0s)       8,0s (9,0s)

Figures between brackets() are for automatic transmission.

The 318is (note: 318i*s*, not the 318i) is only available as a coupe, and
has no option for an automatic transmission.
(that's the "s" standing for sport.)

Regards,

Pieter
cspas151@sus.eur.nl
--
____________________________________________________________________________
  Pieter W. Wijsman --- Come On, Make My Day --- email: cspas151@sus.eur.nl
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Experience purchasing 1992 VW GTI 16v (long)
Organization: University of Louisville
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 18:44:00 GMT

In article <ku8mjuINN15j@news.bbn.com>, jhamill@bbn.com (John Hamill) writes:
> American Buick. I dare anyone to try to figure out the heating controls
> in a Porsche 911 without reading the manual twice!
> 
> jh
> 

Heh, I had trouble figuring out what the little handle between the two front
seats was in a 74 911.  And it was not the E-Brake.
 
After that, I decided to wipe the window off instead of attempting to get the
defroster on.
 
Kevin

BTW: I would still take a german car over anything else.
From: bill@Celestial.COM (Bill Campbell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Fabulous New RX7
Date: 10 Apr 92 15:38:50 GMT
Organization: Celestial Software, Mercer Island, WA

In <180952@pyramid.pyramid.com> lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell) writes:

:In article <1992Mar26.180732.9937@eff.org> peterco@eff.org (Peter A. Cohen) writes:
:>last 14 years, as well.  Still, I think it's lost something in the
:>translation- the RX-7 has gone from an affordable, fun car to drive to a
:>high-bred racing vehicle more on par with a Porsche or a 300ZX. 
:    
:    And of course the 300ZX started as an inexpensive sports car as
:    well...and if you go back FAR enough, so did the Porsche ( a
:    hopped up VW in the early days...)

Don't forget the Datsun 2000 roadster.  It sold for $2,995 in the
late '60s, ran C Production, and would whip the average Porsche
Carerra at the race track (well maybe not Bruce Jennings at
Marlboro :-).

Bill
-- 
INTERNET:  bill@Celestial.COM   Bill Campbell; Celestial Software
UUCP:   ...!thebes!camco!bill   6641 East Mercer Way
             uunet!camco!bill   Mercer Island, WA 98040; (206) 947-5591
SPEED COSTS MONEY -- HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO?
Xref: sparky rec.autos:11425 rec.autos.tech:5859
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Car Wax Recomme./ Warning!! Do not....
Date: 15 Apr 92 03:56:36 GMT
Distribution: dal
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

In <92105.112428PAH112@psuvm.psu.edu> <PAH112@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>Hi,

>I have had EXCELLENT results with Turtle Wax with Teflon (liquid, not paste).
>This stuff goes on easy, and comes of easy.  Just use a THIN coating, not a
>thick one.  The wax repells dirt, salt, water.  You should see the beads on my
>hood when it rains!

>Remember, DO NOT apply/remove with a circular motion, as this will cause the
>dreaded swirl mark syndrome.  A straight back and forth motion is more approp-
>riate.


>*******************************************************************************
>* Peter Howard                *  " If the speed limit is 55 mph, why does my  *
>* DoD# 0924                   *    does my speedometer go to 160 ? "          *
>* 1985 Ninja 600              *************************************************
>* EMAIL: PAH112@PSUVM.PSU.EDU *  " Slower traffic keep right."                *
>*******************************************************************************
Same here, I love turtle wax. Use Black Chrome by turtle wax for the 
black rubber bumpers it is 1000 better than armor all.
ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.motorcycles,rec.bicycles
From: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: Crossposting
Reply-To: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Organization: Minimal.
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 02:02:55 GMT

In article <15377@drutx.ATT.COM> brucer@drutx.ATT.COM (RobinsonB) writes:
[A posting which captures much of the spirit of wheeled travel, sadly
deleted to save space.  What a stirring dialog...]

>Last night I spent three hours under "Mustard" trying to change the
>goddamned headlights.  "Mustard" is what my neighbor Bill has nicknamed
>my 240Z (it's painted baby-shit yellow).  Bill, with whom r.m. readers
>are familiar as one of the neighbors who vastly enjoys standing around
>giving advice, drinking my beer, and watching me bash my knuckles and
>listening to me curse the various basket-case vehicles that I afflict
>upon myself.  As he did last night, while I attempted to cram both my
>arms, several tools, and half my body into the space between the tire
>and the inside of the wheel well, trying for an hour to unscrew one
>single screw.  And at the end of all this, the headlight still didn't
>work. "@#$%^&*(&^%$#^_)#&^%)((^%#" was my general opinion on the
>situation.

I said that the 240Z was easy to work on.  Believe me, for most things
it is.  But I forgot about this.

I have *never* seen a car that is as difficult to change headlights on
as the first-generation Datsun Z-car.  Like you, I spent a couple of
hours on it.  And that was for *one* headlight.  I didn't even bother
with the other one.  The result is that I have one halogen and one
regular headlight.  The glass on the halogen is broken, but as it has
a sealed bulb, it's still going.  Thank God (those who know me will
realize the significance of that simple statement, inasmuch as I
have no religious beliefs at all).

There's *got* to be a trick to it.  Anyone have any bright ideas on
this?

>So, with the august wisdom of one as long in the tooth as I,
>I've replaced the opportunity for self-abuse through maintenance
>of an old British motorcycle with the opportunity for self-abuse through
>maintenance of and even older Japanese sports-car.  And instead of
>writing endlessly tedious monologues about lying on my back on a
>cold concrete floor while Norton drips hot oil in my face, and
>posting them to rec.motorcycles, said same monologues will cause
>the denizens of rec.autos to run screaming for cover, crying
>"Oh God, not another 'brucer' posting."

Sounds to me like rec.autos is going to get a *lot* more interesting.

Welcome to the newsgroup!

>The question burning in my mind is:
>
>	"should I cross-post to rec.motorcycles?"

Inasmuch as you're probably used to incurring the wrath of the net.gods
in that newsgroup, it probably doesn't matter.  :-)

>     ^ .................. the edited "brucer" (DoD #0002)


		Kevin Brown (kevin@taronga.taronga.com)

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rbm1@troy.uucp (21114-marcus)
Subject: caravan, voyager
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: USA
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 19:19:15 GMT
Keywords: caravan, voyager

I am thinking of buying a new Caravan or Voyager with a 3.3 l engine and
4-speed automatic transmission with overdrive. Apparently I need this
engine and transmission in order to get anti-lock brakes.

Consumers Reports as well as a few local friends advise caution because
of problems seen with this transmission in 1989-90 (-91?) models. The 
sales personnel say that the problem has been solved (naturally!) in 
the 91-92 models, and perhaps they are right.

Does anyone have any relevant experience? I would be grateful for any useful
input.
From: granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org (Grant Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Best Dashboard; Most quiet ride; Nominations?
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:25:04 GMT
Organization: People-Net [pnet51], Minneapolis, MN.

mwbg9715@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Mark Wayne Blunier) writes:
>tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>
>>In article <3793@wet.UUCP> butch@wet.UUCP (Butch Katigbak) writes:
>>>
>>>I am changing my car and would appreciate recommendations from the net
>>>on which cars excite them most in terms of 
>>>
>>>Dashboard Design and a quiet ride.
>
>>dashboard design?
>
>
>>is this a joke?

Having a dashboard preference is not a joke, really. Take the Dodge Raider for
instance, the dash design on it is terrible. Having a radio on the floor like
that is a hassle. The most ideal location is just above where your arm might
be if you were shifting with the transmission (auto or manual if it is console
mounted. The location of the stereo on Pre 1991 Chrysler minivans is also bad.
Square gauges are nasty as well IMHO, (ie: many old American cars (Mopar in
particular)). 

Some favorite layouts of mine: >1989 Maxima SE (with black/white), Nissan
300ZX, etc (most of the Nissan's follow the same layout). >1990 Acura Integra,
MY ALLTIME favorite is the Eclipse/Talon/Laser's.

Just my $.02 on the subject.

Disclaimer, never looked at dashes in Mercedes or BMW, so I can't judge on
those.

UUCP: crash!orbit!pnet51!granteri
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Mike Hughes)
Subject: Re: spark plugs
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 19:27:42 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland

	I heard an interesting 'rumor' a while back...A mechanic I worked with
said that the thread pitch on spark plugs is slightly different between brands.
He cautioned me to NEVER put a different brand than the OEM provides in al-
uminum heads because when the threads mesh, the different pattern 'flexes'(sp?)
the threads in the head.  Over time, using variously pitched spark plugs, the
metal fatigues and strips.  

	I have NO reason to believe the above rumor, but if anyone has heard
anything similar, I would definitely like to hear more...-Mike

:Suicidal Tendencies=====> He's a carrier of death a stork in reverse,        :
: =8^) Mike Hughes  =8^( : he blesses you with sickness cause love is a curse.:
:Mail---floyd@eng.umd.edu: The arsenic in your Koolaid, the bomb in your mail,:
:Voice--(301) 340-0922   : he disappears in motion but leaves a bloody trail. :
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.vw
From: andy@balr.com (Andrew Little)
Subject: Re: The GODs are telling you something (Was: Re: Common electrical problem
Organization: BALR Corporation, Oak Brook, Illinois.
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 14:45:00 GMT

In article <1992Apr11.181119.20107@uwm.edu> greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis) writes:
>In article <1992Apr9.003349.9382@rdr.com> randy%rdr.com@uu.psi.com (Randy Tidd) writes:
>>filter), every time I get out of the car, I get a static shock.  It only  
>>happens when my feet are grounded (i.e. on the ground) and I touch a metal  

>YES! This ***DOES*** happen to someone else! I have this same problem in
>my folks 85 Sierra wagon. Noone else does. I do ***EVERY*** time I drive

I have this problem as well in my wife's car (not VW).  I am now very
used to holding on to a metal part of the door when I step out.  This
way the contact to ground is thru my foot - no sparks.  Don't laugh, I
have seen a spark at night in my garage.

I have been tempted to drop a length of wire from the frame to the
road to keep the car grounded, but my wife thinks I'm crazy.

Andy
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Engine Braking - what causes it?
Date: 13 Apr 92 15:54:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: nosc.5342
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <1992Apr10.151054.1291@berlioz.nsc.com> alan@lancaster.nsc.com (The Hepburn) writes:

>In article <5411@otc.otca.oz>, elson@otc.otca.oz.au (Elson Markwick) writes:

>|> I can't imagine that pulling air past a closed throttle plate would be the cause
>|> of engine braking...  After all, the throttle plate would have to be able to
>|> resist quite a vacuum, which would make it pretty tough to open when you wanted
>|> to give it a boot-full.  Try an experiment - prop open the throttle butterfly
>|> with something (take the spring off if you have to), and try to turn the engine
>|> by hand.  I'll bet you it's just as tough with the butterfly open as with it 
>|> closed. (BTW, if you're going to try this, make *sure* your ignition is off :-)
 
Here's a 'better' experiment -- descend a grade and switch ignition off,
observe rate of descent with throttle closed and then repeat with throttle
open...  You *will* find that engine-braking *vanishes* or decreases
*significantly* with throttle open vs closed...

I say this is better because it addresses the point in question -- cranking has
little to do with running as far as  operating conditions in the cylinders that
affect crank-rotation are concerned...

 
>This sure is a frustrating thread.  It's such a simple concept yet people insist
>on making it difficult.  Let's look at the mechanics of each of the 4 strokes in

There is a piece of aftermarket equipment called a 'Jacob Engine Brake' which
is installed on some large Diesels which *actually* allows
'compression-braking'.  This devices opens the exhaust valve at TDC such that
essentially *none* of the work expended in compression is returned on the
stroke from TDC to BDC.  An engine so-equipped is the only case anything that
can be refered to as compression-braking is occurring.

This is in addition to, and distinctly different from the exhaust brake already
mentioned (butterfly in the exhaust system)...

Walt K.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: cmfb@cray.com (Chris Bone)
Subject: Saab mail-list
Keywords: Saab, mail-list
Organization: Cray Research Inc
Distribution: usa
Date: 8 Apr 92 10:39:51 CDT

If anyone is receiving the Saab mail-list (SAAB.novellpm@sjfsmtp.novell.com)
could you let me know if it has had any activity during the last couple of
weeks? I have sent several subscription requests but have yet to receive
anything back,
Thanks!
-- 
           __
          /  ) /             
         /    /_  __  o _
        (__/ / /_/ (_/_/_)_
Xref: sparky rec.autos:11010 rec.autos.vw:2290
From: jhamill@bbn.com (John Hamill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Experience purchasing 1992 VW GTI 16v (long)
Date: 9 Apr 1992 14:53:50 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman Inc., Cambridge MA
Reply-To: jhamill@spcink.bbn.com (John Hamill)
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

In article <1992Apr5.232338.25432@rdr.com> randy%rdr.com@uu.psi.com (Randy Tidd) writes:
>Ok now the fun starts.
>The same speaker started getting intermittent bursts of static, and the  
>car pulled to the left slightly on the highway.  Also the coolant idiot  
>light flickerd once or twice (4-5 seconds) when the car was started cold.   
>for the alignment, they didn't notice anything except that the tire  
>pressures were off (28, 30, 35, and 40 psi) and fixed that.  They also  

	Sometimes the VW factory alignment is not that great to start
with either. My neighbor bought a 16v Scirocco new in 1989 (paid
about $18k and got ripped off bad - these cars were nice but way over-
priced) and the front tires were shot in 8k miles from poor alignment.

>Here we are on 4-5 and guess what -- the coolant light flickers once or  
>twice after the car is started cold.  I am reluctant to even mention it to  
>the dealer or god knows what they'll "fix" this time.
>1) What is causing the coolant light to flicker?  The handbook says it  
>indicated the "coolant temperature/level".  If the light flashes, is it  
>too cold?  Too hot?  Too low?  Too high?

	This part blows me away. The manual states that the coolant light
is supposed to flicker on start up to verify that it is working. Why
did the poster think something was bad, and why did the dealer replace 
the head gasket? It doesn't make sense. At least the dealer should know
better. I'm assuming that the flicker is only on start up and not while
the car is running (5 seconds or so after ignition on the light should stop
flickering). If the light does flicker it means the car is overheating,
but there is no way in hell you can be overheated after the engine has
been on for 5 seconds. When in doubt read the owners manual carefully!
German cars tend to need to be understood better than the average
American Buick. I dare anyone to try to figure out the heating controls
in a Porsche 911 without reading the manual twice!

jh

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: csilva@maestro.mitre.org 
Subject: Re: Wasted on Women???
Reply-To: csilva@maestro.mitre.org 
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean, Va
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1992 13:45:08 GMT

Gordon, Gordon, Gordon......

Get a clue, Get a life!!!  Try and get out more often.

Try and watch the comedy channel so you know how to spot humor!

good luck...

-- 
****************
los
****************
From: bspahh@gdr.bath.ac.uk (Andrew Henry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Emission control was Re: American engines oversized,underpowered ?
Date: 17 Apr 92 10:05:33 GMT
Organization: School of Biological Sciences, University of Bath, UK

In article <1992Apr16.214341.24239@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> cmj@horus.cem.msu.EDU (Chris Jenkins|xxxxxx) writes:

>One of the more interesting and even astonishing things I discovered was
>that, ca. 1985, while the US had been using auto catalytic converters for
>years, European countries were only THEN beginning to mandate their use
>according to some long, drawn-out plan.  Even more interesting is that 
>the UK actually fought AGAINST this legislation.  With as much of an
>environmental mess as the world is in (especially in Europe where it's so
>dense), I could hardly believe that anyone in the EC would fight this.
>Even France was hard to win over.  I guess if accolades should be awarded,
>they should go to the Germans, for trying to get the ball rolling.

I must admit that I'm not completely won over by catalytic converters.
When these emission regulations were introduced, they were set at such
a level that a catalyst was the only solution.  However you then lost
the chance of running a lean burn engine, for fear of contaminating
the catalyst.  The fuel efficiency of a lean burn engine was significantly
improved, with the probability of steadily improving the emissions in time.
I'd be the first to admit that some of our car makers weren't exactly
quick to produce clean engines, when they didn't have to.

I'm also a little wary of being more "green" by fitting my car with
a variety of rare metal catalysts.  Where do these come from, and am 
I just transferring my environmental problems to somewhere else?

			Andrew  Henry
Sempre  Gilles					bspahh@gdr.bath.ac.uk
From: matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: How's that new Duster?
Date: 9 Apr 92 16:28:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: progress.1992Apr9.162857.21641
Organization: Progress Software Corp.


  About the "new" Duster.

  I new it would happen.  First Chevy brought back the "Nova"...

  The original Nova was great.  Nice bug V* that just woudn't die.  I figured
they brought the name back because it had such a great rep.


  Now the Duster and Plymouth.  Sounds like the same thing.

  Ah, my old Duster.  Slant 6, went for over 200K miles.  Those things just will
not die.  (It did have that blind spot though...)

  I cannot help but wonder if the American car manufacturers have yet to wake
up and smell the coffee and realize they cannot live on their old reputations.

  Naahh.

-Matth


--
          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)
From: granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org (Grant Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Experiences with Armor-All
Date: 10 Apr 92 21:25:01 GMT
Organization: People-Net [pnet51], Minneapolis, MN.


Actually, I have had two cars with Eagle GTs on them. On this first car, I
never used Armor All on the tires what so ever. Even at 96,000 miles (YES,
Good Year Eagle GTs lasted for 96,000 miles and had GOOD tread left on them)
they were still quite black on the sides. The second car had Eagle GTs as well
 and I used Armor All on them. After about 8-10 applications, the tires looked
brown after about 3 days. And before the car went, the sidewalls WERE
cracking. BTW, the cars were 1985 and 1989 LeBaron GTS Turbos. My current car,
a 1991 Nissan Sentra has Dunlops on it, and I use NoTouch. I applied it Sunday
of this week, it has rained twice and snowed once and they still repel water
very well and look shiny and black. Although not like they did on Sunday.
Armor All would have worn out after the first rain. 

On the net awhile back, someone recommended mixing glycerin and isopropyl
alcohol together and spraying it on tires. Haven't tried it personally.

For my interior, I use ClearGuard. It lasts a heck of a lot longer, and
doesn't leave the oily residue like Armor All and doesn't have the reeking
stench that AA leaves behind for about 3 months.

Just my $0.02. Again, kudos to Goodyear on those tires.

UUCP: crash!orbit!pnet51!granteri
Newsgroups: rec.autos