HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: read/new
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 17:14:13 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.044855.13185@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>Recently, I saw that someone had posted a price for a "good" electronic balast
>in the neighborhood of $150.   !!$150??   This doesn't include fixtures,
>reflectors, hood, bulbs, nothin'!  Just the dang balast!
>
>Does this mean that to get a decent light set-up w/one bulb and a no-cost
>home-made-outa-scrap-stuff hood would run in the neighborhood of $200+?????
>
>That's insane!?!?!  Can a ballast REALLY be WORTH (emphasis here) $150?

	I bought a top of the line Advance MarkV Electronic Integrated
Circuit Ballast for $40.  It drives 2 22" 40W compact flourescent tubes.
The MarkVs are electronic ballass that run at 20 kHz like the IceCap,
and the Integrated Circuit part monitor the line voltage so it can
have a constant light output even during brown out.  I saw a MarkV
VHO ballast in FAMA ads a year ago.  If I were to buy a electronic
VHO ballast, that's what I would buy.  Advance's been in the ballast
business for a long time, they know how to make ballast w/o all
the little problems that people seems to be running into with
the "new generation" ballast.  From what I read, you can get the
"60%" increase in output with the Advance VHO ballast too, just plug
in a HO bulb :).

-Anthony
From: drchambe@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Dennis Chamberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: medication & Filters (was: Blue-green 'algae' are DEAD!)
Keywords: Erythromycin
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:50:44 GMT
Reply-To: drchambe@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Dennis Chamberlin)
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Dec17.204438.13387@en.ecn.purdue.edu> wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:
>In article <1992Dec16.215206.10496@bagend.uucp>, jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley) writes:
>> 
>> Okay, cringe away.  I meant what I said to be very general except
>> for my specific claim that Mardel is guilty of false advertising.
>> 
>> nitrite off the scale.  I have advised three people recently that
>> have ignored my warnings against doing this.  *ALL* of the fish
>> died.
>> 
>  After using the product
>for the indicated 5 days, the only change in my ammonia and nitrite tests
>was a very, very small increase in nitrite, maybe up to .08 ppm at the most.
>Ammonia levels did not test any higher.  I dont wish to dispute Jan, and
>for all I know the addition of Maracyn in all of her (his?) friends tanks really

I too feel Mardel is deceptive in their package claim. I lost several
fish after a five-day treatment, and found very high ammonia in the water.

My fish advisor has recommended a more elaborate treatment procedure that may
help limit the damage. I have never used Mardel medications again, but it
seems to work with other products.

1. Stop chemical filtration (remove carbon).
2. Treat every other day for five days (or per package directions.)
3. 50% water change
4. Add Shieldex
5. Start chemical filtration.

With some medications, you can insert step 1a: Wait three days, and repeat
step 1. if necessary before continuing to step 2.

She (a fish store owner with degree in biology) explains that the theory is
to build the medication to effective levels slowly enough to avoid additional
stress on the fish. Then steps 3,4, and 5 act to quickly and drastically
drop the concentration to limit damage to the good-guy bacteria and minimize
the opportunity for development of resistant strains. (Shieldex removes medication.)

She claims that good-guy bacteria can often be medicated for up to two weeks
before losing ground on the ammonia, but I begin ammonia testing the first 
week. She also says that Tanksafe (another Mardel product) is effective in
assisting a damaged filter. However, I don't know how it works.

I can't really vouch for the validity of this, other than to say it sounds
sensible and seems to work for me.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: greene@hubble.ifa.hawaii.edu (Tom Greene)
Subject: Re: Advice on (M) predator tank sought.
Organization: Institute for Astronomy, Hawaii
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 03:26:57 GMT

in my opinion, a puffer, 2 lionfish, a moray eel, AND a trigger all 
in a 55-gallon tank is overstocking.  I've heard that niger triggers are
mellow as far as triggers go, but i know from experience that keeping 
ANYTHING in my 55 with the undulated trigger i had was impossible.  The 
puffers feed very slowly; they may have a hard time getting enough to 
eat if you keep them with more agressive feeders like the triggers.  

mostly my opinion
deb
  

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: [M] Ozone in da Skimmer...
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 19:25:06 GMT

In article <BzF2B5.23p7@austin.ibm.com> steve@coho.austin.ibm.com (sTeVeN CaLlAhAn) writes:
>Yesterday I bought a protein skimmer for my 29 gallon saltwater tank.
>I really didn't need it since my trickle filter does a great job on
>its own.  However, since I have heard soooo many great things about
>a skimmer....  It seems to do great, already I've collect alot of 
>scum from my tank (hopefully I won't have to clean it as often too).

A protein skimmer works entirely differently than a trickle filter. 
Having a TF makes it in fact a good idea to have a skimmer, so that you
remove some of the organics before they get oxidized to nitrates in the
tower.  Just look at all that scum and think that before it was floating
around in your tank!


>
>My question is about ozone machines you can buy that will attach to
>your skimmer.  You can get these things for about $150 and you can
>adjust them for the amount of ozone that they release. 
>
>Are these things worth it?  I don't have a problem with parasites, but
>if the ozone will help reduce the proteins then maybe I want it.  Is
>there any problem with them in a reef tank?  Do they make a 
>{significant, so so, minor} difference?

This is an area of debate, but from my personal experience I get less
foam production when I turn on my ozonizer.  I run a oceanic model 6
skimmer (venturi) and get good foam normally.  When I turn on the ozone
(at low levels) the foam production goes WAY down and changes color. 
Makes since since the organics are being burned up by the ozone instead
of getting skimmed out.  However, the reason I bought mine, the supposed
increase in skimmer effeciency with an ozonizer, never materialized and
so mine sits in the off position about 99% of the time.

Use the money to get an RO unit, 10x more benefits.


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt)
Subject: Re: Skimmer-only tanks (Was: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?)
Organization: OptImage Interactive Services Co., L.P.
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 22:12:24 GMT

In article <tom.724341954@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu>, tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
|> fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith) writes:
|> 
|> walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt) writes...
|> 
|> tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
|> 
|> : >|> tank), a *good* efficient protein skimmer and lots of high quality live
|> : >|> rock.  
|> 
|> : >	Does this really work for other people? I tried to set up a 60G
|> 
|> Trust me.  It works very well!
|> 
|> : What Kind of skimmer did you have?  A skimmer only setup works
|> : extremely well for reef tanks.  How big was your skimmer? 
|> 
|> Greg makes a good point here.  If your skimmer is not large enough you
|> may not have good results.  Also, did you have the suggested 2lbs of
|> coralline/live rock per gallon of water?  If not, you probably were
|> not getting the amount of nitrifying bacteria you need.  IMO, any short
|> cuts in the basic idea of this method could lead to unsuccessful
|> results.
|> 
|> --tom
|> --
|> 	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu
|>  Bradley's Bromide:
|>  	If computers get too powerful, we can organize them into a
|>  	committee -- that will do them in.


	Well, I tried to follow all the "rules" of this method as I understand
them:

	1. 140-160 lbs rock for 60G tank.
	2. VERY light bio-load, none added till rock had cured for 4-6wks
	3. Largish skimmer (26" or 27", 3" dia. home-build job.)
	   (How ARE you supposed to size a skimmer for a tank, anyway? I figure
that since it takes a while to produce any meaningful amount of smelly gunk, it
must be keeping up with the waste it's supposed to remove. If I adjust for any
more output, I get clear water.)

	The only thing I can think of that might be hurting me is that I don't
think the rock I got is of more than "medium" quality. It's Florida rock, and
some of it isn't very porous, so I loaded up with more than I might have used
otherwise.

	Regardless, my tank looks SO much happier since I added a canister. And
when I get around to building that venturi skimmer, I'm hoping for another
marked increase in water quality.

-- 
Walter Hunt					walter@optimla.optimage.com
OptImage Interactive Services Company, L.P.	walter@optimla.aimla.com
11040 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite #300		netcom!optimla!walter
Los Angeles, Ca. 90025				(310) 445-5718
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Subject: Re: Skimmer-only tanks (Was: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 16 Dec 1992 13:40 EDT  

> Alex Parker (aparker@maine.maine.edu) wrote

>>
>** On this topic, can anyone specifically recommend a good brand/model
> of venturi skimmer for this sort of application??  I may set up such a
> tank, and it seems that primary reliance on protein skimming would
> demand a top-notch skimmer.
> BTW, all ten or so people who posted a RE: to this article reposted the
> whole *&^%^ thing.  Let's all work to save bandwidth!! :)
> 

Tunze makes a good venturi skimmer.  Most mass produced skimmers are too
small for a big tank.  How is that for generalizations.  You can make your
own if you feel so inclined.  

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: faith@wam.umd.edu (Jerome Smith)
Subject: Re: Rubber Eel, Spotted puffer questions
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:14:03 GMT

In article <1992Dec6.000409.29460@netcom.com> bruce@netcom.com (Bruce V. Schwartz) writes:
>Hello aquarians!

>I was told by the pet
>shop that rubber eels eat algae, but I haven't seen the one I bought eat
>anything.  Any information about this critter would be useful, I haven't
>been able to find anything about him in any books.

I have two and they are scavengers. I have never seen mine eat anything like
algae. I feed mine shimp from the store, worms, steak, ect... they love it.
I don't know about that algae stuff.

>
>5 neon tetras
>5 red eyed tetras
>2 serpae tetras
>2 red platys
>1 loach (not sure what kind, its not a clown...it has fine black/tan stripes)
>2 algae eaters
>and
>a spotted puffer
>
>I pulled the spotted puffer out the community tank after he ate a neon and
>killed an algae eater.  Is there any hope of reforming the spotted puffer?
>He gets quite agressive at mealtime, and after eating an earthwork will go
>after anything that moves!
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>Bruce Schwartz
>bruce@netcom.com

Those puffer are semi aggressive fish. I also know that they will put in their
mouths what will fit in them.  I don't think you can tame them either. Good
luck to you.         Jerome!

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: [F] New tank recommendations!
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 20:42:12 GMT

Paul Stafford (pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com) wrote:
:     where	what					how many   
: 
:    upper: 	zebra danio ( Brachydanio rerio) 	6
: 		marbeled hachetfish(carnegia strigata)	3

Just so you know, the z. danios will not limit themselves to
the upper levels - they will be all over the tank.  Fun, active
fish, but you might want to get more than 6.

: 
:    middle:	cardinal tetras (para.. axelrodi)	12
: 		rams(micro.. ramirezi)			3
: 	 or	kribensis(pelviachromis pulcher)	3

For a first tank experience, you might prefer kribs - cheaper
and hardier, with equally interesting behavior.  Get 2 fems
and 1 male - the fems will be the ones with rosy bellies (there
are other secondary sexual characteristics, but that is the
easiest).
 
:    lower:	kuhli loaches(acanthopthalmus kuhli)	3
: 		plecos					2

I'd just get one pleco - they are not social animals, and a
40g tank isn't too big for even the smaller species (unless you
are talking about otocinclus, which are very small).

: 		clown loaches(botia macracantha)	3
: 
:  so- what schedule would be good? also, would it be best to acquire all of
:  each at once ( i.e. all 12 tetras )at the same time?

It is definitely best to get all of a species at a time.  I'd start
off with the z. danios, as they are the cheapest *and* the hardiest
fish on your list.  You might also want to choose either kuhli or
clown loaches - not that they wouldn't necessarily get along, but both
are shoaling species would prefer more of their own kind.
 
:  also, I haven't gotten any chemistry test kits yet- any recommendations?

Definite ammonia and nitrite.  If you plan on playing with the
water chemistry (softeners, acidifying with peat, etc.) then
you should get hardness and pH kits, too.

:  One last thing- no plants yet- I'd enjoy recommendations there, too.

The plants depend very much on what your water chemistry is going
to look like.  Floating water sprite *loves* soft acidic water -
we've sold a lot of it at fish meetings.  For harder water, java
moss, java fern and giant hygrofilia are my current impossible-to-
kill favorites (we've got both softwater and hardwater tanks).

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: $40 pH meters, Do they work.
Date: 12 Dec 92 12:28:03 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter) writes:
>I am interested in buying a pH meter and see a number for sale at 
>around $40-$50 dollars.  I am wondering if any of you own one of these

The cheaper (costing and looking) ones are not exactly wonderful.
After about a year they start floating wildly regardless of
calibration.  I had to give up using my pHep-1 after about a year and a
battery change or 2.  Even while "alive", it was too slow and too
tempetrature sensitive.

My new toy is a Cole-Parmer pH probe with 3-point auto-calibration
(4.0, 7.0 and 10.0), water-tight push buttons for on/off, hold and
calibration, automatic temperature compensation and a more convenient
battery case.  It cost me $60 + shipping from Cole-Parmer
(1-800-323-4340).  So far I like it.


-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
From: obrien@bu-bio.bu.edu (Todd O'Brien)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Help!  Lighting Question!  [F]
Date: 17 Dec 92 17:40:02 GMT
Organization: Biology Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA


HELP!  I just set up a new aquarium, a 20 gallon long.  It currently has a
20 watts "generic" flourescent that came with the hood.

My question is:

1)  Will the "generic" light (20 watts) be enough for the plants to at least
	survive for the next four weeks?

2)  OR, exactly HOW MUCH BETTER is a 20 watt Vita-Lite?


Vita light is the only "special" brand I can get at the moment.  

The light bulb is 24" long (on a 30" tank).  It is only 12" from the bottom of
the tank.  I thought the "generic" would be enough, and I don't want to buy
a "stronger" source until I return from X-mas (and *I* am taking care of the
tank, not my room mate).

WILL A VITA-LITE MAKE THAT MUCH OF A DIFFERENCE?

Please respond by e-mail.  I might not have time to read the postings because I 
am in finals week.

Thank you for any help you can offer.

* Todd *


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dphantom@triton.unm.edu (darlene an  92sep02 lawry)
Subject: Re: Arowana
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 01:09:30 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <1992Dec9.222835.29653@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu> tcwang@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Tom C Wang) writes:
>I've been keeping an arrowana(I'm not sure what variety, with orange on
>its tail) for the past year and it's about a foot long.  It's in a pretty
>simple tank set up, with an UGF w/power head, and an outside filter, in a
>60 gal tank.  I haven't had any problems, except that the arrowana eats
>alot and I have to vacuum the gravel quite frequently.
>I'm considering adding some plants, and other "decorative" pieces, to
>recreate its natural habitat.  If anyone can recommend a book, or have
>any suggestions, it would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>

Can't help you too much with the decorative end of it, but a foot long
arrowana in a 60 gal tank?  Consider yourself lucky your tank is still
intact, from what I understand about them.  I'd put lotsa plants and
obsticles in there to help dicourage it from racing across the tank,
and you might seriously consider cutting back on how much  you feed
him...he's really too big for your tank as it is.  They don't need as
much food as you think.

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9542 sci.aquaria:1783
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: ballasts (was Re: newsgroups)
Date: 17 Dec 92 01:05:14 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: gvgdsd.gvg.tek.com

In article <1992Dec14.200334.27927@bagend.uucp> jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley) writes:
>>How did this get the subject: newsgroups?

If I recall correctly, here is the answer:
> John Opsomer
> (yes, I know, this is the same as the previous posting, but I screwed up the
> "subject" in the previous one, so I figured nobody would read it)

To add to your request for price/brand name info:
>>Brand names, guys, I want brand names!   Good and bad ones, please.
>>Where have you found a $10 electronic ballast?  Cheapest ones around
>>here seem to be $20 and up.

Let try for a definition of 'electronic' ballast first. I've found
the 'lights of America' shoplight to be a passive LC resonant circuit, 
with conventional trigger starter. When I read 'electronic'on the box
I thought it would be solid state using a triac or mosfet device to 
switch the lamp on and off rapidly. 

Anyone openned the package for an 'Icecap' or other true electronic 
ballast??

++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 15:46:59 GMT
Keywords: snails fresh help

>>>2) Boil your gravel. Be aware you will also kill your good bacteria therfore
>>>you will need to reintroduce fish slowly. This method does not
>>>always get rid of the snails. But it may be worth a try.
>>
>>Never tried boiling, but I've washed the gravel with diluted chlorox and
>>it sure killed everything.  Duh.  Be sure to rinse very thoroughly and use 
>>sodium thiosulfate afterwards.  You can also try alum.
> 
>If your suggesting he use chlorox in his tank may I suggest you pay for

I was following-up to your valid recommendation #2 (boiling).  I would no
more put chlorox or alum in an "active" tank than you would boil the
same active tank.  Chlorox will kill everything, but it is easily
neutralized.  Why would I want to pay for anybody's new fish?

>>4) Some folks on the net have reported success with snail-eating fish, such
>>as clown loaches (botia macracantha, I think).  
> 
>Oh yes rumor has it clown loaches work fine. That hasn't been my experience.
>YMMV.

Absolutely.  That's why this forum exists.  I personally don't see how
they could eat ALL of the offending snails, but I can see how they'd reduce
the population to an "acceptable" level.  As you noted, YMMV.  What works
for me and thee may not fly for others.

>Maybe you'd like to mention one constructive one then.

I would consider both cleaning the tank and equipment with a dilute chlorox
solution (if you're going to start from scratch), and introducing 
snail-munching fish (so you don't have to tear the whole tank down) as valid 
recommendations.  I also consider your first 3 recommendations as valid.  I 
did not say otherwise.  I merely added my $.02 in, just as you've done above 
per my #4 (clown loach) above.
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt)
Subject: Re: Skimmer-only tanks (Was: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?)
Organization: OptImage Interactive Services Co., L.P.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:31:27 GMT

In article <1gksh6INNahi@hayaku.protocol.zycad.com>, dominick@protocol.zycad.com (Dom Paniscotti) writes:

|> BTW, I wouldn't use Chemi-Pure in your reef tank since in leaches phosphates
|> into your water (that's what I've heard anyway). 
|> 
|> -- 
|> Dom Paniscotti                  internet: dominick@protocol.zycad.com
|> Protocol, a Division of ZYCAD   phone:    (201) 347-7900            
|> 500 International Drive         fax:      (201) 347-0303        
|> Mt. Olive, NJ 07828


	Is this really true? I've noticed more algae cropping back up lately and
hadn't really figured out what had changed to encourage it.


-- 
Walter Hunt					walter@optimla.optimage.com
OptImage Interactive Services Company, L.P.	walter@optimla.aimla.com
11040 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite #300		netcom!optimla!walter
Los Angeles, Ca. 90025				(310) 445-5718
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:29:02 GMT


>Because if you put diluted chlorox in a tank I proport that tank will
>be nothing but trouble as far as keeping fish alive. In twenty five
>years of keeping fish. Working at wholesalers and retail, breeding just
>about any fish thats breedable in a tank I have to say this sounds
>ludicrous. I don't claim to know it all but has anybody else ever treated
>their tanks with diluted chlorox???????????

I don't believe Mr. Shine suggested putting ANY Chlorox directly into the tank.

He suggested taking the gravel OUT of the tank, treating it, then replacing it.
And, as I mentioned in another note, I too use Chlorox from time to time and
have suffered no losses...  You simply have to use common sense and allow
the (gravel in this case) to dry out and allow the chlorox to neutralize
naturally...

>Is there an exceptable level of pond snails in a tank? Not in one of my tanks.
>One pond snail will get you a thousand.

Some people don't mind them... more natural, and all.  The problem with some
snails is that their larvae are parasitic... that can definitely be a bummer.

But, if the snails and their larvae don't harm the fish, why not just keep their
numbers down, and enjoy the added, natural effect...?

Mike