HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ehsan@attila.weitek.COM (Ehsan Kalami)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Car hard to start when engine is Hot
Date: 10 Nov 92 22:05:24 GMT
Reply-To: ehsan@attila.UUCP ()
Organization: WEITEK, Sunnyvale CA

Hello everyone, For the past Few months Ihave notice that My Mercury Marquis is becoming
harder to start when engine has been operating for a while. The hotter the engine
the harder it gets to start. I can enventually start the car after a few tries.
I am afraid one of these days (or nights ), it's gonna give up on me.
Has anybody experienced this kind of problem? I appreciate any advice 
you could give me. By the way it's a 1983 model.

thanks much.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Nov 92 10:45:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> The auto may or may not be significant in terms of world wide
-> polution, but anyone who lives in one of Americas big cities knows
-> that auto emissions are a BIG problem.

 Hey, nobody told you to live like 50,000 rats in a 50-rat nest.
                                                                       
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:25:03 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee)

> shahrukh_merchant@att.com writes:
>I have heard two schools of thought on whether tires should be rotated:
>

	The current wisdom is: Don't rotate unless you need it. In other
words, if your tires are wearing correctly, why would you want to change
that condition? Rotation shouldd be to correct irregular wear patterns
which may be inherent to the position the tire is placed. But if no such
irregular pattern exists, there's no need to fix it.

	The stay-on-the-same-side rotation urgency has been reduced from
mandatory to optional. The theory that the belts set in the particular
rotation is disproved because on retreaded radials, where the original
rotation direction is NOT known, no ride quality diminishment could be
found.
JSLee
From: ah157@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Rob Henry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 1984 Chrysler New Yorker ->Electrical Help Needed
Date: 8 Nov 1992 01:05:01 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ah157@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Rob Henry)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu



My New Yorker is eating a battery a night thses days.
When I hook up the cables,the negative one sparks.
I know I have a short but could anyone give me an idea what it may be or 
a way to check the problem out?
Someone told me a light across the battery and take a fuse out,the light gets
brighter when the short is found or
something,I forgot.
Please leave MAIl.All Help is appreciated.
Rob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: removing a glass mount antenna
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:29:58 GMT

In article <1dkmq0INNi4v@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) writes:
|> 
|> Is it still possible to remove a glass mount antenna ? the instructions
|> seems to indicate that once the antenna is sticked on the glass, it is
|> permanent.

I had one of these on a pickup I bought used.  I stuck a bar in the slot
where the antenna used to be (the previous owner removed the antenna from
the bracket), and twisted it off much like you might remove a bolt.

|> 
|> any ideas ?
|> 
|> thanks in advance.
|> 
|> jerry
|> 

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Intergraph Corporation		Huntsville, AL
Electronics Division		(205) 730-8537

To the cat, the experimenter is problematic.
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 10:43:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:

|In article <53110036@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com> leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG) writes:
|>In rec.autos.tech, ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:
|>
|>|In article <Bx91Ev.91p.1@cs.cmu.edu>
|>|rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
|>|   On an automatic car, can one shift into drive while the car is
|>|   moving?  Would it damage the transmission?
|>|
|>|You would really kill your transmission if, when shifting from drive
|>|to neutral, you overshot neutral and hit reverse!
|>
|>That's if you press that little button on the shifter.  On the few times I
|
|>On column shifts, I believe you have to pull/push to go from neutral to
|
|The truth is:
|    1) its not too hard to do; column shifts let you go anywhere once
|you pull, floor shifter buttons only stop you from getting 2-1 instead
|of D.  At least that was the case in my father's '65 442 and my
|mother's 76 Volvo 244.
|
|    2) It only stalls the engine if you happen to get into the
|reverse.  I decided to coast down a hill (yes, its illegal) and after
|I reached 35mph, I went to put it back into D and went to R.  Stalled
|the engine.  At least that was the case in my father's '65 442.
|
|-andy

I'll believe you on point 2.  I don't intend to verify it on my dad's Honda
:-)

lawrence
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electronic ignition?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:06:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I am seriously thinking about buying an older Spitfire. Now, after
-> all the laughter has subsided, I have a few questions.

 I always thought that Michelotti body was gorgeous, myself.  Until you
lifted the fancy tilt front cap and found the thing was powered by
hamsters.


-> I have been advised to replface the stock ignition system with an
-> electronic ignition. Does anyone have experience doing this? what
-> brand/system did you pick, and why?

 It's not a bad idea for any car that has points, but the Triumph is no
worse than any other.  Frankly, I wouldn't worry about it until any
other work the car requires has been done.


-> Does anyone have any particular experience with this car? Anything to
-> look out for, or things that should be replaced prophylactically? I'm
-> looking at MkIII or later.

 The early ones are hard on halfshaft joints.  The later ones are hard
on the rubber drive donuts.  My old '69 had 220,000 miles on it when it
got it, and it was like Frost's One-Hoss Shay - everything was falling
apart at once.


-> Also, I was thinking of replacing the stock dual carbs with a single
-> Weber carb. Any experience doing that?

 There's nothing wrong with the SUs.  They're fine instruments -
constant velocity with infinite mixture adjustment via the sliding
needles.  If you were going for an all-out racing motor, a single Weber
DCOE or Dell'Orto DHLA *might* be worth consideration, but frankly I
think you'd be wasting your money.

 The Spitfire engine is distinctly agricultural - long stroke, small
bearings, small ports and valves, wimpy main caps and rods, etc.  The
transmission ain't so hot either.  If the car develops serious engine or
trans trouble, you might want to consider simply dropping in one of the
newer Japanese twincam fours with a five speed.  I had spec'd out a swap
before some geek knocked on my door and asked if the car was for sale,
then made me an offer I couldn't refuse.
                                                                         
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Sudden and Drastic Drop in Gas Mileage
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1992 00:57:27 GMT

In article <97166@netnews.upenn.edu>, george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:
|> i know the experts will disagree, but i have seen a dramatic
|> decrease in milage since the nov.1 switch to gasahol.
|> I noticed the milage change _before_ i realised they switched
|> the gas, btw.
|> ( '87 fuel injected buick 3.0 )


This has been reported by others, but it is small.  A drop from 30 to 20
mpg is something more drastic or the odo is screwed up.  The other compounding
problem with the switch to MTBE (or alcohol blends) usually occurs in the
winter months when gas mileage tends to go down anyway due to the lower
warmup cycle resulting in richer mixtures and more open-loop control on
electronically controlled engines.

Back when I lived in Indiana my VW's would drop from about 26 to 24 mpg
in town do to this phenomenom, and this was long before the oxygenated
fuels arrived.  I agree that an alcohol blend version of oxygenated fuel
will cause a slight decrease due to the lower specific heat content in most
alcohol blends.

Mark
From: clogan@redorc.chi.il.us (Sigmond Freude)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Underdrive pullys - Any experiences?
Date: 10 Nov 92 03:15:18 GMT
Organization: Red Oracle Bbs/Network

In article <1992Nov4.225800.14648@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu>, hartzfel@cps.msu.edu
(Michael Hartzfeld) writes:
>Hey folks,
>
>Has anybody installed underdrive pullys?  Did they make much of a 
>performance improvement?  Are they worth the hassle?  Are they worth
>the money?  How did your battery life hold up?  I am considering them
>for a weekend-toy kind of car, so daily use would not be a concern.
>Any comments would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>
>Hartz


Underdrive pulleys make a hella lot of difference. I have serpentine underdrive
pulleys that i put on my boss 302 ranger(yes i have a ranger with a 302 in it)
bit thats another story. Anyway underdrive pulleys will increase your horses
about 25-30. You will gain anywhere from .3 to .8 on a quarter mile too. so if
you are thinking of going with them go ahead!!


----
clogan@redorc.chi.il.us
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bryan@elara.mitre.org (Bryan Blackwell)
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?
Organization: Research Computer Facility, MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:25:32 GMT

>What makes them silent?  Whats wrong with silence?

Nothing, really.  some people like to hear the valve noise, much
like some people like the sound of an open exhaust.

>Do hydraulic valve adjusters provide any other function?  I have heard of
hydraulic lifters in OHV engines that allow the engine to use a hotter cam
but still maintain decent low rpm drive-ability.

The lifters you are referring to are made by Rhoads and Crane,  Basically,
they are lifters (sorry, HVA's) that have a high bleed rate at low RPM's.
This reduces the effective duration of the cam, which improves the idle.
I've talked to several people who really like them.

>Are hydraulic valve adjusters the same as hydraulic lash adjuster?

Yup.

>Lastly, what alternatives are there to hydraulic valve adjusters?

Well, most OHC engines use mechanical followers or tappets (more
names for the thingies which ride on the valve).  This is what
makes the distinctive clicking noise of these engines.  There are
other types of valving systems (sleeve, rotary, desmodromic), but
these can't be easily adapted to an existing system.

BTW, I don't really understand the desmodromic system.  Anyone
care to explain?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva)
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:23:19 GMT

In article <Bx75IJ.n3A@mail.boi.hp.com> wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>I think it is more of a safety problem than anything else.

I agree.

>Some states do not allow you to be coasting around in neutral and from an
>emergency maneuver standpoint being in neutral a lot can compromise your
>ability to react quickly.

On an automatic car, can one shift into drive while the car is moving?  Would
it damage the transmission?

Rujith de Silva.
Carnegie Mellon.
From: gavin@aquila.csis.dit.csiro.au (Gavin Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Timing
Date: 12 Nov 92 22:31:32 GMT
Organization: CSIRO Division of Information Technology


Hello,
  Would some kind soul care to explain timing.  More specifically what it means
to advance or retard timing and why timing needs to be advanced at high revs.

				Thanks

For those of us trying to unravel the black box of the not so modern ICE.
-- 
  _--_|\             -|-    Gavin Walker
 /      \             |     
 \_.--.*/ <- Canberra,      Walker@csis.dit.csiro.au
       v     Australia      Phone +61-6-2750964     Fax +61-6-2571052
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ddefend@urbana.mcd.mot.com (Dan Defend)
Subject: heater core leak
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Urbana Design Center
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1992 18:33:04 GMT

I'm getting a strong antifreeze smell when I use the heater (and some smell on
vent) in my '86 Mustang GT.  I assume it's a heater core leak.  I've tried a
couple of different stop leaks with no success (I let the car idle almost an 
hour on the last attempt -- I know that may not be a great thing to do for
other reasons).  Anyone had luck correcting this problem without replacing 
the heater core?

Thanks,
-----
Dan Defend
ddefend@urbana.mcd.mot.com
uiucuxc!udc!ddefend
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Seatbelt failure.
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 06:41:59 GMT

Topher Eliot (eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com) wrote:
: 
: First, does anybody know if I would be able to get Chrysler to fix this for
: free, either out of good will or legal necessity?  The part (a seatbelt
: assembly) would cost about $75 as I recall, and installation would be about
: $40.

As I understand it, automakers are required to fix safety belts for at least
100,000 miles.  I would think that even if this isn't the case, if you make 
a big enough stink they'll do it for you.  Installation, however, you might
have to eat.
: -- 
: Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: conrad@Quotron.COM (Conrad Frank)
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Organization: Quotron System, Inc.
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:40:03 GMT

uznerk@mcl.ucsb.edu (Andrew Krenz) writes:

>In <403@rd1.interlan.com> tavernin@rm1.interlan.com (Victor Tavernini) writes:

>>I'm thinking of buying a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z and was wondering if any
>>specific model/year had any serious problems ... besides rust :-)

>>Thanks,

>>Victor Tavernini
>>Racal-Datacom, Inc.


>I don't own a Z now but I used to.  Anyway, here goes:
>The early 240's were probably the best there ever were.  '70 and '71    
>specifically.  Don't get a '72 because they had a lot more smog equipment
>on them and they're not as powerful.

Excuse me, but I own a '72, and they have very little smog equipment. I think
that you may be refering to the '73, which was the first year to use emmision
control carbs, and EGR. The '74 260Z shares the same equipment as the '73 240Z.
The '72 has an air pump, PCV valve, vapor recovery system, and a deceleration
valve. That is all. The '72 is better than the earlier Z's in that the diff is
shifted further rear-ward, allowing the half-shafts to be straight, reducing
wear on the u-joints.

Yes, I am biased toward the '72, but the above statements are correct, and most
of the books that I have read on the history of the Z indicate that the '72 was/is the best of the early Zs.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gooley@netcom.com (Mark. Gooley)
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 03:56:08 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.233028.23565@cbnewse.cb.att.com> pmwempe@cbnewse.cb.att.com (paul.michael.wempe) writes:
>In article <1992Nov5.135758.20536@mailer.cc.fsu.edu>, sdb@redbeard.physics.fsu.edu (Scott D. Berry) writes:
>> 
>> You are wrong -- alcohol is more expensive than the gas.
>> Remember the actual cost of the gasoline is NOT the ~$1.20
>> you pay for it at the station.  My memory tells me that the
>> actual cost (out of the refinery) is closer to $.60-$.80/gal.
>> (or even less, since there are typically $.30 in taxes).
>
>Here in Illinois some stations sell both the gas+ethanol and
>the 100% gass side by side, and the ethanol blend is usually
>cheaper (and has an equivalent, but usually higher octane rating)
>
>State variation in tax breaks?

Ethanol is very heavily subsidized.

Let me tell you all a little story.  Once upon a time there was a company
called Archer Daniels Midland with a chairman of the board named Dwayne
Andreas.  The company wanted to expand its corn wet-milling operations
in Decatur, Illinois (my hometown) but Mr. Andreas wanted to be sure that
the results of wet-milling would have a steady market.

Fortunately for ADM, Robert Dole of Kansas and various other prominent
lawmakers were (and presumably still are) Mr. Andreas' good friends.
Two kinds of legislation guaranteed that ADM's wet-milling operation
would be profitable: first, tariffs on imported sugar that not only
protect sugar producers in the U. S. from cheap imported sugar, but
drive the price of sugar so high that soft-drink manufacturers use
high-fructose corn syrup (derived from wet-milled corn) in quantity,
and, second, for those times in the winter when there's less demand
for soft drinks and hence for high-fructose corn syrup, huge subsidies
for power ethanol made from grain (such as wet-milled corn).  Hence
ADM's wet-milling plant can keep running at high capacity all year long.

It's just a story.  Perhaps someone here knows the exact truth?

There may also be a state tax break for fuel that's 10% ethanol.

I've seen estimates that claim that power ethanol costs $1.40 to $1.60
a gallon to manufacture.

Mark. (former Illinoisian)
gooley@netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: '83 Volvo diesel. HEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPP......
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:51:30 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: cyf@sequent.com (Cyrus Foughty)

>Symptoms:  Turn key on wait for glowplug light to go out and then try
>to start engine.  It cranks at the normal speed but no ignition.  I
>checked the power strip to all of the glow plugs and the test light is
>alive.  I did not check each individual plug as it is a major pain and
>I checked them a few months ago.  Still even with a few bad glow plugs
>the engine should start.  When I am cranking the engine it doesn't
>even try to start.  Yes, it has fuel in the tank.  I don't know how to
>proceed troubleshooting this any further. What should I do next?

1. Use a tad of starting fluid in the air cleaner (don't try this
   with a turbo).  If it starts and runs ok, you know it's the glow 
   plugs.  If it belches and backfires, but does not run, you are 
   likely not getting any fuel.

2. Injector pumps are not self-priming, and many diesel fuel systems
   can become non-functional when air fills the wrong places.  Try your 
   recommended technique for starting if you run out of fuel.  This will 
   likely involve loosening one or more fuel connections, and cranking 
   until the fuel comes out. It would sound like your engine is not
   getting any fuel; otherwise it might at least belch occasionally
   while cranking.

Actually, diesel engines are easier than gasoline engines to figure
the small stuff out about, because there's so little to go wrong.

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Old cars, emissions, engine size and carb tuning...
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 13 Nov 92 21:26:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->      Recently I saw that Edelbrock in conjunction with Weber
-> have put together a complete fuel injection system for

 Before you lay out your three grand, remember Edelbrock came out with
an electronic fuel injection system back in the '70s.  Two years after
introduction, it was not only discontinued, but warranties were
terminated and no parts, schematics, or anything were available.  Lots
of people got pretty mad over that.
          
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Sudden and Drastic Drop in Gas Mileage
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 00:14:07 GMT

I agree with other poster about checking your speedo/odo.  I have experienced
broken or slipping drive gears in the odo that have trouble whenever the odo
is about to turn thru the xxxxx.9, xxxx9.9, xxx99.9, etc transitions.  Sometimes
it can be heard as a faint click or whir.  Watch the odo (AND THE ROAD!) as it
tries to go thru one of these transitions to see if it is smooth.  Another
problem (with a high mileage car) may be a wore drive gear or pinion in the
transmission feeding the speedo cable.  Might slip a tooth every once in a 
while.  Both these effects will be aggravated by colder weather as that
presents more drag to overcome.

Happy hunting.

Mark
From: young@whizkids (Mark Young)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Putting a 5spd Manual in a `61 Chevy Apache 10
Date: 6 Nov 92 16:34:20 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: General Dynamics, Fort Worth Division


I am interested in putting a 5spd manual transmission in a `61
Chevy Truck.  I currently have a 3spd manual which causes the 
truck to run at high RPM's during highway driving.  I would 
love to convert to a 5spd manual.  I suspect that the 5spd 
manuals that Chevrolet has been putting in there full sized
trucks the last few years might work (with a few mods).  Can
anyone tell me where to start.  How can I determine bolt pattern,
transmission length, etc.  Are there books that might give 
me adequate cross reference data?  Has anyone seen an article 
concerning this mod?

Thanks,

Mark Young
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: TESTING of antifreeze chemical balances?
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 01:13:10 GMT

 What are the paramters to test in ethylene gycol antifreeze? Like Ph what
should it be? and other chemical balances. I've use the same anti freeze in
my 88 toyota pu for 130k. I periodically pull the radiator cap off look for
crud, stick my finger in there and feel for junk. It's clean. I replaced the
water pump at 95k beacuse of a bearing failure and there was no signs of
pitting or that white flower stuff. I top off the resevoir with those
"extend" products about once a year and add a little distilled water. The hoses
are original too and I saturate them a few times a year with silicone, I use
up one spray can each time. I know this goes agianst common wisdom, but
who sets the rules? The chemical companies.

Kris