HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley)
Subject: 12 point bolt heads on Ford
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:19:37 GMT


What kind of tool is used on what appears to be a 12-point bolt head?
I ran into this on my 83' Mustang while trying to remove the drive shaft
so that I can replace the clutch.  These are the 4 bolts which connect the 
drive shaft and universal joints to the differential drive flange.  The
bolts resemble an inside-out Torx configuration except that they have
12 points instead of six.  I thought that a 12-point socket might do the
trick, but it seems that this would require a 15/32, 12-point socket which
I have not been able to find.  The Ford dealer was absolutly no help either.
They said "Yep, takes a special tool.  Don't know what you call it or where
you could get one though".  Any clues on this would be greatly appreciated.
My Mustang aint goin nowhere till I solve this!

Thanks,

      ******************************************************************
      *   Dwight Brantley    *   Failure Analysis & Reliability Dept.  *
      *  Intergraph, Corp.   *  Reply To: brantley@falab1.b21.ingr.com *
      *   Huntsville, AL     *           Voice: 205-730-4456           *
      ******************************************************************
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Friday, 28 Aug 1992 11:03:56 EST
From: <MREED@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
 <1684E9450.R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu> <17e9cnINNgii@smli.Eng.Sun.COM>

I'm not sure what the problem is, but GM doesn't seem to be interested
in fixing the problem. I have a '89 Olds Cutlass Supreme w/2.8l V6
54k miles. The valve covers are secured by 4 torque drive bolts.
The thing leaks oil around the valve covers like nothing I've ever
seen and I don't even want think of changing the gaskets myself.
If there is an easy way of doing it, or changing the rear spark
plugs I'd really appreciate the info. So far I haven't been able
to locate a maintenance and repair manual for it.
                                                      Mike
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Subject: Re: dirty spark plugs
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 14:05:32 GMT


Another thing to check out are the emissions.  In NH, the cars are smog tested
every year and I try to preserve the printouts.  If you see sudden increase in
the numbers, you have a cause to be concerned about.  Normally, a well tuned
Honda will pass the emission with plenty of room to spare, so you need to watch
the trend.

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:57:18 GMT
Subject: Re: How to bypass cylinder hear temp. sensor?  (81' 200SX)
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

This sounds vaguely like a problem I've been involved with recently.  The 
specific engines are quite different but the sensor may have similar effects
on the two systems.  My shop has been trying to get a Jaguar 4-cam V-12 to
run smoothly and we found that the temperature sensor was dead.  Consequently,
the computer went to its default value and the injection mixture went to its
maximum rich setting.  This is the normal setting when the engine is starting
out cold.  It is supposed to lean it out after the engine warms up.  This 
wasn't happening and it may effect your engine the same way.  If your system
needs to see that signal to know that the engine is warm, it may cause it
to also run extremely rich.

Is there a place on the engine where the sensor can be installed?  If so,   
that probably would be the best solution.  Check the coolant flow path in
the old engine and see if you can compare it to the new engine.  Then 
try to find a comparable place to install it.

Good Luck,
       Gary




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Trouble starting 1984 Mercedes 190E
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 06:27:13 GMT

Sherman Uitzetter (Sherman@128.147.155.27) wrote:
: 
: 
: 
:   I recently purchased a 1984 Mercedes 190E (from a relative)
: and its started having problems starting and idling.  Most
: of the time it starts up and runs great but occasionally it
: starts and dies, starts and dies, starts and dies ... about,
: say, ten times and when it finally does get going the idle
: is too low to keep it running so I have to drive with both
: feet.  Anybody have any hints or clues?
: 
: 
: Thanks alot in advance,
: -Sherman.

You don't mention if it's gasoline or deisel, but if it's a gasoline engine,
I'd look for air leaks in the ducting between the air flow sensor and the
intake manifold.  Any air leaking in would not be measured by the flow sensor,
so you would be running very lean.  The air sensor, if I guess correctly,
would be above the canister for the air filter on your car.  (assuming Bosch
CIS injection, or LH-jetronic)

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Aug 92 15:41:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059



-> I'll say it again.  IMHO, if you can't put up with what you percieve
-> to be deficiencies of a vehicle's ORIGINAL equipment, perhaps that
-> vehicle is something you would be better off admiring from afar,
-> rather than something you should cobble up for your own selfish
-> purposes.

 Selfish purposes, eh?  I've never heard it put quite that way before.

 There are very few automobiles that couldn't use a boost in the
handling or horsepower department.  Just because the factory did it one
way, doesn't mean it can't be improved.
                                                           
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cavalier Brake Problem and Question
Date: 2 Sep 92 14:26:00 GMT

Gee, 20,000 mi. (~30K km.) sounds kind of early to be getting warped rotors.
Even my '88 Celebrity, which eats rotors for lunch, went 24K on its first set.
At that point they were deemed too rusted to turn.  However, the letter you got
from GM sounds bogus to me.  Although the conditions they cite (infrequent use,
etc.) will promote rust, rust is not a cause of rotor warpage.  We're talking
rust on the vents, by the way, not rust on the braking surface.  To state that
"disc brake pulsation can be largely due to ... rust or corrsion build-up" is
just plain wrong.  Any rust that forms on the braking surface gets rubbed off
pretty fast (like in a couple of good stops).  My rotors were nice and shiny on
the outside, and totally rotted out on the inside.  Any remaining pulsation is
due to something else.

I think the main cause of warpage is over-torqued lug nuts.  On the rare
occasions when I have to put my car in someone else's hands (like for an
inspection), I *insist* they use a torque wrench and not an impact wrench on
the wheels.  Remember, it doesn't take much to cause that pedal pulsation.
Your rotors don't have to look like shriveled up pancakes to be warped.  The
limit on lateral runout for my rotors is only 0.00005".  Lug nut torque is
considered important enough to even be in the owner's manual nowadays (well, in
mine anyway).

I've also adopted a procedure of stopping 20 ft. or so short after high speed
stops (like expressway exits with a light at the end of the ramp).  I then
slowly roll up the rest of the way, on the theory that I'm distributing the
accumulated heat instead of letting the hot pads rest on a single spot on the
rotors.  Don't know if that really helps - we'll see how long my new set lasts.

Let us know how you make out.  I'd be surprised if you get anything out of GM
on this one.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
From: M21605@mwvm.mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: VW Jetta clutch adjustment
Date: 26 Aug 92 14:46:55 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102


   A friend asked me to adjust the clutch on his 86 Jetta, but it has a mechani
sm like no other I have ever seen.  Instead of the expected nylon thumbscrew
there is contraption with ball bearings in it, but no sign of any threaded
adjustment.  I have looked at other Jettas, but none have this arrangement.
Can anyone shed some light on this?  My reputation as a mechanic is on the
line.  In fiddling with the thing it seems to have loosened so now the clutch
won't disengage at all.  Thanks, Lee
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Early/Classic car parts?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 20:41:48 GMT

In article <mrmike.714938849@geta> mrmike@geta.life.uiuc.edu (Mike McCaughey) writes:
>Anyone know of a good source for early/classic car parts?
>I'm looking for seal kits, brake parts, ignition parts, etc
>for late 40's Chevy. Are there places that specialize in
>parts for older model cars?
>

Drop by a decent newsstand and pick up a copy of Hemming's Motor News. They
have tons of places advertising parts for these cars. 
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Battery Technology for EVs
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 08:51:01 -0500

 JD> Before ordering, you should know that there are alkali metal compounds
 JD> of EDTA.  You really need to know whether the magic battery goop is 
 JD> pure EDT acid or one of these compounds.  The compounds are lots 
 JD> cheaper
 JD> so there is financial incentive too.

Thanks for the info. I _assume_ it's the pure acid form; don't think I want to
add alkali metal compounds to a lead-acid battery.

I would still like to hear from someone who has actually used this stuff in
their car battery.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM (Matt Rein #3)
Subject: chev htr fan
To: rec.autos.tech
Posted-Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 12: 06:31 cdt
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:06:31 GMT
Received-Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 12: 06:43 CDT

> 
>      have a 1977 chevwith heater fan problems....fan won't run....
> same problem from a month or so ago...haven't been able to get at it
> due to reassignment at work.
> 
> have looke dta assy and how do i remove the knob ends from the heater
> control levers.......no set screws used....are these a press fit type?
> 
> where u have to try to pull them off the ends of the control levers??
> or i should say try to work them off.....with out the knob end being
> removed u won't be able to pull the panel face plate off to be able to
> get at the fan switch......last info i rec'd told me fan switch
> is a good source of the troubleand min cost to replace, if u can get
> off the panel i guess.
> I plan to jump the power lead to the switch to each of the fan motor
> leads once i can get in there..
> Many thanks for any info 
> Ben
> 
Behind the dash is the last place I would look.  Stuff back there is
usually pretty foolproof unless you messed something up when you tried
to pull the dash apart.
Look at the fuse first.  Also there is a big (20 amp) inline fuse behind
the dist. along the firewall.  For the high-speed position on the switch.
I have replaced more than one of these fuses.  Sometimes the wire even
gets fried.
If both fuses check out, check for voltage at the fan.  I would bet
the fan motor (about $20) dies on that car before the fan switch.
The only two fan switches I ever replaced were on a '70 Malibu and my
own '71 Monte.  (Both were the same part number and different from the
one on a '77 Chev.)

                                       _                
Matt Rein                             / )/              / /
CFS/MO                               /  /_  _       _  / / _
Coon Rapids, MN                     (__/ /_(/_|\_|_(/_/_/_(/__ BY CHEVROLET
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andersen@me.udel.edu (Stephen Andersen)
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Organization: Department of Mechanical Engineering/University of Delaware
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 15:57:47 GMT

In article <2840016@iftccu.boeing.com> bressler@iftccu.boeing.com (Rick Bressler) writes:
>Well, I've got 4 cars, a couple of which are more or less 'show' cars.
>They quite often will sit for several weeks at a time, and only my 
>every day driver gets any real miles.  Now, if you want to believe 
>the Slick 50 adds, :-) after a period of time most of the oil film 
>is off of the moving parts.  (Actually, I think this is around two 
>weeks, and is the only part of the Slick-50 advertising that I 
>personally believe.)  In this case a pre-oiler makes good sense.  I have
>many 1000's of dollars in those motors...

Dunno about Slick 50 and other products helping this, as I
wouldn't use them for other reasons, however there is a way
to get/maintain an oil film on parts that are not in motion...

The newer synthetic oil formulations which are Ester-based
(Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline) will do just that.  The esters
will maintain a film for an indefinite period without any dynamic
motion.  Regular dinosaur oils will eventually lose their film
under static conditions.  Granted, the few microns of film that
will be left by the synthetics may be small, however typically
the surface asperities that the oil is keeping out of contact
are likewise very small...


Steve





-- 
 Steve Andersen  DoD #0239                               andersen@me.udel.edu
 (302) 324-0888                                     andersen@zr1.ccm.udel.edu
 1992 Ducati 907 I.E.                                      1987 Yamaha SRX250
 "Life is simply a consequence of the complexities of carbon chemistry..."
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Date: 28 Aug 92 18:44:47 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID

Steel stud stuck in aluminum.  This is pretty unfortunate...

Next, I would make a drilling jig out of steel (this is a fixture to hold
a drill on-center, file the end of the stud flat (if you can), fasten the
jig onto the workpiece solidly, CAREFULLY put a drilled hole down the
center of the stud.  Start small and work up to the size of the largest
EZ-out that will fit into the stud.  Using a QUALITY EZ-out try removing
the stud.  Chances are, it will come out.  It may also bring all of your
aluminum threads with it.  If that happens, you will have to tap the hole
for a Helicoil and use one of those patches.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:29:41 EDT
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: dirty spark plugs

I got some problem with my 82 Civic. The car runs well but the spark plug of
4th cylinder gets dirty really quickly. The new plug got black and greasy only
after 10 days when it was put on. I checked the compression, all cylinders were
good, about 200 psi. Spark plug cable was also checked, no breakage was found.
Could someone kindly give me some suggestions to fix this problem?
Thanks in advance.
From: mmeeker@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Michael A Meeker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 87 Grand Am backfiring
Date: 1 Sep 92 23:11:34 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The Ohio State University

Hi, 
     I have a question I hope someone can answer.  I have an '87 Pontiac
Grand Am with the 4 Tech engine.  Recently I have noticed that upon 
deceleration I get a backfiring noise that sounds more like a problem
with a hole in the exhaust system.  I checked over the exhaust, muffler, 
and manifold and it all seems to be in good shape.  Also it only does
this when the car is warm, it is quiet when I start the car up and for
the first 10 to 15 minutes of driving.  Does anyone know what this could
be, or what I can do to stop it?
     A friend of mine also had a problem similar to this in an '86
Grand Am.  She said that eventually it blew a hole in her exhaust and
when she took it to her mechanic he said something about a bad module.
Can anyone shed some light on this.  Is this a problem with the Grand 
Am's?

Thanks

Mike

-- 
Michael Allen Meeker              \ O. \   'The best work is done in defiance
The Ohio State University          \ S. \    of management.'    -Bob Woodward
Email Meeker.7@osu.edu              \ U. \___________________________________
CoB CSC (614) 292-1741 Fax 292-1651  \______________ Go Bucks ! _____________
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ljkong@undergrad.math.waterloo.edu (Lennard J. Kong)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 04:32:47 GMT

  You can try drilling a hole in the stud then using a left handed tap, to 
screw into it then keep on turning to eventually bring it out. The hardest part 
is probably being able to drill the hole, I recommend first using a very small
bit to make an indentation so that the larger bit will not move around. Yhe above method is proabably the best but requires a lot. Good luck.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Lennard J. Kong               |  Emancipate yourself from mental slavery
 ljkong@descartes.waterloo.edu |                                  - Bob Marley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley)
Subject: Re: 12 point bolt head on Ford
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 19:08:04 GMT

Thanks for all the speedy replies to my question.  I went back to Sears
at lunch and sure enough found a 12 point metric socket that should fit.
I've just never seen a bolt with 12 points on it before, but I usually
only work on cars that are pre-1980 vintage.  Now I remember why! 

      ******************************************************************
      *   Dwight Brantley    *   Failure Analysis & Reliability Dept.  *
      *  Intergraph, Corp.   *  Reply To: brantley@falab1.b21.ingr.com *
      *   Huntsville, AL     *           Voice: 205-730-4456           *
      ******************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: larrigan@eeserv.ee.umanitoba.ca (John Larrigan)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 19:00:34 GMT

tzing@nyx.cs.du.edu (Tom Zing) writes:


>I have a broken exhaust manifold stud frozen in my aluminium head.  The
>stud piece is about an inch long.  I have tryed liquid wrench and some 
>vibration to try and loosen it.  Does any one know how to remove it ?
>Thanks
>Tom Z

There are special stud removing tools.  Sears Craftsman has one and I'm
sure Snap-on does also.  I goes on a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar and
uses a seraited cam to grip the stud.  

John L.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dscott@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Doug Scott)
Subject: Re: CV joints
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 23:55:14 GMT

In <1992Sep1.100414.5782@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>Han Lin Goh (hgoh@oac.hsc.uth.tmc.edu) wrote:
>: How can you tell when CV joints are worn and need to be replaced?
>: My Datsun 210's front right suspension makes noise when taking bumps.
>: How much does it cost in general?
>: Are CV joints the same as ball joints?

>It sounds like you have ball joint problems, rather than CV problems.

>The ball joints form the (almost) vertical axis around which your wheel
>assembly rotates while steering.  To check if they are shot, jack that
>corner of the car up, grasp the tire firmly, and try to find where there
>is freeplay.  There should be none.  If it moves when you jerk on the top,
>the top one's bad.  If it moves from side to side (rotationally), then the
>tie-rod end is bad.  Bottom is similar to top, but lower :)

>CV joints, on the other hand, can be thought of as more-or-less a universal
>joint.  They are on the driveshafts.  If you have a worn one, it'll probably
>sound like a helecopter is on top of your car, mostly when turning.

>If you're hearing klunks while going over bumps, I'd bet on a ball joint, 
>and I've replaced lowers to uppers in about a 4:1 ratio.

>Have fun!
>--

>Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
>SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
uuuhhhh, just a little question.

I know datsun 310's were rear wheel drive so it
uuuuhhhh, just a minute here guys..

I thought 210's were rear wheel drive ( thought, not known! )

in that case, I gotta think there are no CV's up front
and probably just Univ.Joints along the drive shaft. no?

Just a quick thought. Please correct my incorrectness if
indeed it is an incorrect.

_____________________________________________________________
The prerson responsible for something bad happening is 
normally an irresponsible person. So how can they be
RESPONSIBLE? I want to know.
_____________________________________________________________
would only wemm local that 210's were also read wheel
>hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Subject: Re: spark plug nightmare & warning.....
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:03:56 GMT

In article <BtuwM8.6o6@acsu.buffalo.edu>, v087mxgb@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson) writes:
[test deleted]
> 
> I added some silver solder to plug what I thought was a small
> imperceptible radiator leak.OOPS!!! This *welded* the #2
> spark plug into the Al head - broke in half at the threads.

I don't understand!  What did you silver solder? Where?
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech