HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help with Mass Air Flow sensor on GM 2.8l V6('88)
Date: 27 Dec 92 16:43:21 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee)
Distribution: usa

> polychron@bnldag.ags.bnl.gov writes:
>Could somebody help with the following problem?
>Car: '88 Celebrity Wagon, engine 2.8l V6 (the V6 from hell??)
>The "service engine soon" light came on. Read the code stored; it
>was 34 (MAF sensor too high). By the time I got to check it the condition
>no longer existed and "scan tool" reads 5-6 grams per second at idle which
>is normal. Driving is mostly normal but occasionally cuts out momentarily
>and then again it's OK. At idle, some times, it acts as if it is about
>to die and then suddenly the idling becomes smooth again as if the
>computer finally figured out how much gas is actually needed.

	Tap on the MAF sensor. If it causes the idle to go funny, the
sensor is bad. There is an upgrade available that removes the MAF
sensor for the calculation and uses speed density to determine airflow.
See your dealer for more details. It involves removing a relay and
adding a new PROM. The MAFs were a good idea but in the field they
were being contaminated too often even though they were positioned
after the air filter.

JSLee
From: ken.akridge@cutting.hou.tx.us (Ken Akridge) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Madness due to carb backf
Date: 1 Jan 93 00:26:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: ken.akridge@cutting.hou.tx.us (Ken Akridge) 

.MZ> I have a 78 International Scout II with a 345 V8, Holly 2010 carb, and .
.MZ> Prestolite distributor that backfires through the carb when hot. This i.
.MZ> problem that goes away for a while but always returns. Do far I have:  .
.MZ>                                                                        .
.............................................................................

     Simple.  Trash the Prestolite and replace it with one from an
old IH bus (they have the points and condenser distributors).
Just remove the governor first.
     Your Scout will purr like a kitten.

                          Sue
---
 . MegaMail 2.10 #0:
                                                                                                                       
----
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| The Cutting Edge BBS (cutting.hou.tx.us)    A PCBoard 14.5a system  |
| Houston, Texas, USA    +1 713 466 1525          running uuPCB       |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: paul@NeoSoft.com (Paul Hutmacher)
Subject: Re: Bent engine mounts in a jeep Wrangler???
Organization: Greater Montrose UFO Appreciation Society & Data Haven
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 15:00:16 GMT

In article <1992Dec23.203626.28497@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
>Any experiences on how violent jumps can affect Jeep 
>Wranglers (1.8l 4cyl engine and 31" tires on stock suspension).

<snicker>

It beats the shit out of them.  I guess your friend found that out didn't he?
When you try and fly any vehicle on factory suspension you're bound to break
stuff.  Doesn't those 31" tires rub as well?
-- 
Paul Hutmacher     | "These things happen.  One day you run everything
paul@NeoSoft.Com   |  and the next day you run like a dog." -- HST
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden)
Subject: Re: Madness due to carb backfire
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 18:17:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec28.055958.15452@mdd.comm.mot.com>, zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com (Mike Zintel) writes:
> I have a 78 International Scout II with a 345 V8, Holly 2010 carb, and 
> Prestolite distributor that backfires through the carb when hot. This is a
> problem that goes away for a while but always returns. Do far I have:
> 
> 	Rebuilt the heads - compression is OK.
> 	Replaced ALL vacuum hoses - 22" and steady at idle.
> 	Replaced the distributor, wires, coil, and plugs.
> 	Rebuilt the carb twice.
> 	Tried 10 BTDC, 5 BTDC (correct) and TDC timing.
> 	Paid a mechanic to replace the electronic control module in the
> 	new distributor. This seemed to work for three weeks but it could
> 	be a coincidence.
> 
> The result of this is a beautifully working engine except for this !@#~$%^&*
> carb pop. I am running out of ideas (and money). Any suggestions would be
> appreciated.

All the mechanical conditions sounds as though they have been
restored to normal, so I would suspect that the problem is
related to ignition.  I would double check the distributor cap
for any signs of carbon streaks which might indicate high tension
arcing.  Also re-check the routing of the ignition wires so they
are not parallel with each other.  They should be some what 
crisscrossed to eliminate any inductive crossfiring.
From: david@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 03 Jan 93 14:13 CST
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Flywheel batteries as EV power 
Message-ID: <107200001@trsvax>
Nf-ID: #R:adobe.com:5064:trsvax:107200001:000:147
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!david    Jan  3 14:13:00 1993


test, test test test test test test test test test test

Sort of a testy fella, huh?


				       DISCLAIMER:
				       Delete (USE YANK AND PUT)

From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 15:31:38 GMT
Subject: Saab 9000 A/C question
Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Subject: Saab 9000 A/C question

While out driving the other day, I set the climate control
to 70F.  Cold air started blowing into the cabin (outside 
temp was about 55-60F).  Even raising the setting would not
fix the problem, so I shut off the climate control.  Later,
when parking the car, I noticed that the fan continued to 
run (not unusual, right?).  After two hours, I found that the
fan was still running.  It was actually the smaller of the two
electric fans, way up front under the grill and in front of 
both "radiators."  I disconnected this small fan.  The next day,
I was presented with a completely dead battery, which I eventually
traced to a continuous current draw.  I removed the A/C fuse from
the panel, which eliminates the draw.  It sounds to me like I have
a stuck relay in the A/C circuit somewhere.        


Where could this relay be?!  I've looked but can't find it.  All 
help is greatly appreciated----


Paul Welch

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: neal@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Neal Howard)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Engines
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 01:01:03 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

In article <1992Dec18.143800.9476@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>I would recommend changing the timing chain & gears at about 100k if you
>have a nylon tooth gear. Change over to a steel gear, and you'll probably
>never have any more trouble.

Even steel timing gears on an classic designed OHV American V-8 is no guarantee
against breakage or slippage. I once had a catastrophic chain/gear failure in
a Ford 460 that had about 25,000 miles after a major rebuild. The cause: revving
the engine in neutral very high (to make a lot of racket from the pipes to 
impress a girl with my big bad engine) and apparently the valves floated enough
to hit the piston tops and resulted in a busted timing chain, a few teeth
stripped off a solid steel cam gear, a few bent valves, and some small nicks
in the tops of some of the pistons..... and no, a Ford 429/460 isn't a free-
wheeling engine, especially when you have a Sig Erson cam with ~.570 lift and
high compression TRW pistons :-(. The steel sprocket is definitely the way
to go , though.
-- 
=============================================================================
Neal Howard   '91 XLH-1200      DoD #686      CompuTrac, Inc (Richardson, TX)
	      doh #0000001200
         "Let us learn to dream, gentlemen, and then perhaps
          we shall learn the truth." -- August Kekule' (1890)
=============================================================================
From: an1060@anon.penet.fi
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Lincoln Mirror For Sale
Date: 30 Dec 92 21:21:32 GMT
Organization: Anonymous contact service
X-Anonymously-To: rec.autos.tech

X-Anon-To: rec.autos.tech



Hello,

I have a passenger's side view mirror for a 1987 (may fit other years) Lincoln
Continental...

New From Dealer is over $220....  I ask $120 or best offer...

Please Respond to:  mantell@ams.sunysb.edu

Abe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
To find out more about the anon service, send mail to help@anon.penet.fi.
Due to the double-blind system, any replies to this message will be anonymized,
and an anonymous id will be allocated automatically. You have been warned.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: blunt@crlrfr.enet.dec.com (Bob Blunt)
Subject: Re: Light and LOUD... I want aftermarket horns
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: 29 DEC 92 17:01:23    


In article <27244@sybase.sybase.com>, joe@bulldog.sybase.com (Joseph Weinstein)
>The horn on my Mustang is way too anemic. I rate horns into three categories:
.
.
.
>Any suggestions? I'd like them light in weight too, because of where I would 
>mount them.

Briefly, I'm guessing that you'ld like sources?  Try Ford Motorsport, your Ford
dealer, local auto parts houses, (DEFINITELY) Direct Connection has 'em, check
the auto magazines.  If all else fails, look in J.C. Whitney.  I have a set of
horns from some obscure Italian mfg on my Dodge Ramcharger.  They sound very
much like category three.  They (and the other pair that survived two accidents
in my Omni GLH) work well, but can be a little sensitive to cold weather.  They
are usually easy to mount, provided there is some wasted space in the front of
your car.  I STRONGLY recommend that you NOT locate them inside the engine
compartment.  There is too much sound deadening material to get the volume you
want.  Try to find a protected place behind the grille, as far to the front of
the car as possible.  Try to mount the horns themselves to point DOWN (at least
slightly).  The biggest problem is to find a place that the minicompressor is
close to the horns.  The shorter the length of each hose the faster response
you'll get to activating the horn/compressor.

I think that the cost is under $50, but that's from two or more years ago.  You
might also look for suppliers that make those "musical" horns.  Apparently the
"technology" is very similar, in that both use seperate "tuned" horns and those
funky minicompressors.

Bob
From: boutzev@lcaohp2.epfl.ch (Lubomir Boutzev)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Diesels and durability...
Keywords: Diesel, engines, cars, reliability
Date: 21 Dec 92 09:33:49 GMT
Reply-To: boutzev@lcaohp1.epfl.ch
Organization: AI crazed sickos.

Here's my 1 cent contribution to diesel durability.
I'm talking from europe and durability does not have the
same meaning here.
We are knocked out to learn that your cars last more that 
100000 miles with no major troubles. 
Here things are different. A car is considered to be a  junk-yard candidate
when it reaches the 85000 - 100000 kilometers range.
This was the minor introduction to what follows.
When I was a kid my daddy had a 200D Mercedes.
This baby had the OM-615 diesel engine.
Aftrer many years of hard use the engine
died at little more than 500 000 kilometers after chewing out 3 clutches and one gearbox
in it's faitfull life.
The guys at the Mercedes garage said they never seen such a thing happen
before. This was back in the mid 70's. Rest in peace good'ol 615 !
L. Boutzev
From: ljb@parkcity.dr.att.com (BLO54620-BonhamLJ(DR2194)240)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HELP: Identify Alum Con Rod Brand
Date: 30 Dec 92 21:06:08 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.162936.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov>, schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
|> What Brand of Aluminum connecting Rods are these, For a big block chevy. They
|> have the Letters BRC cast into the rod bearing cap.
|> 
|> Kris


Kris,
You're going to hate me for this, but the brand of those rods IS "BRC".
They produce a full line of steel and Aluminum con-rods and some really nice
pistons and cranks too.  I believe they are based in Kalifornia, but I could
be wrong.  You might try calling a few race shops around your area and see
if they know how to get in touch with BRC.

Good luck.

"If your in control, you're going to slow."
			-- Parnelli Jones
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 03:11:45 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.015926.4003@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> lungtt@gus.ecn.purdue.edu (Terence T. Lung) writes:
>The idea was supposed to lower pollution.  It sounds to me like
>a ploy that results in 5 to 25% more gasoline burned per mile.
>
>Where else is this happening?  The paper vaguely mentions 35
>other places across the country but does not say where.
>What times of the year is this stuff being introduced?
>just winter time?

As I have been buying US gas exclusively for the last 5 years, I am also
interested in how gas is being monkey'd with these days.  Today I heard
that 31 states are using ethanol in their gas during the winter months
(it was a TV commercial, I think it was ADM (supermarket to the world 
commercial) they were extolling how their product helps grow corn so
american farmers can become texas oilmen or some such noise).

Also, Ammoco is adversising a "clean" gas, ie extra filtered, so it  
burns cleaner (TV commercial has lots of beakers and flasks with clean
gas and dirty gas in them, etc). Any info if this "clean" gas is easier
on your engine?  Oh yea, this "Clean" gas was clear as water, but here
in Ontario, a jar of gas has a vivid yellow, while Michigan gas has a
reddish color to it.  Is there anything to this coloring?  Can it be
counteracted (ie what can make red colored gas look yellow?)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: apuzzo@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (Tony Apuzzo)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 20:05:34 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.015926.4003@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> lungtt@gus.ecn.purdue.edu (Terence T. Lung) writes:
>A recent San Jose Mercury News article mentioned the complaints
>of motorists about an especially oxygenated gasoline that's
>being pumped everywhere in California.  Their MPGs have gone down
>anywhere from 5 to 25 [!]%.  Taxi companies are complaining.  
>
>The idea was supposed to lower pollution.  It sounds to me like
>a ploy that results in 5 to 25% more gasoline burned per mile.
>
>Where else is this happening?  The paper vaguely mentions 35
>other places across the country but does not say where.
>What times of the year is this stuff being introduced?
>just winter time?
>
>I wonder if I got suckered by this stuff this last time that
>I strangely ran out of gas [not fun] around 410 instead of my usual
>500+ miles between refuelings.[in a happy '88 Ford Escort]
>
>out in Indiana,
>Terence

Here in the wonderfully progressive Denver Metro Area (Home of the soon
to be U.S. Transportation Chief, former Denver Mayor Federico Pena.)
We've been forced to use "oxygenated" fuels for several years.  My 87
Integra drops from 31 to 28 (season averages) immediately when the oxy
fuels go in the tank.

It's too bad that cars that are running well get little benefit from
the fuels.  Poorly tuned old clunkers get better emmissions, but they
still put out more pollution than they would if tuned well and running
on normal gasoline.  Gee, maybe we should legislate properly tuned
cars, rather than wasteful, misguided attacks on the free market.
Oops, that last sentence sounds like a flame, sorry.

-Tony

-- 
*                                                         
* Be a non-conformist like me and don't use a .sig at all.
*                                                         
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: s5ugxk@almserv.uucp (Girish Kumtheker)
Subject: Is water pump going bad at 65K miles in 89 Accord Normal ??
Organization: Fannie Mae
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 18:14:21 GMT



Hi,


My car has been diagnosed with a bad water pump, with estimated
repair cost at $ 350 - $ 400 ( that includes replacing the belts and
timing belt .. they need to come off anyway, so replacing them now saves
labor ).

I have 1989 Honda Accord 4 Dr with 65K miles . My question is
is this a normal thing to happen to lose water pump at this mileage
for Accords ????


Please send E mail to s5ugxk@fnma.com, 



Thanks

Girish Kumthekar
s5ugxk@fnma.com



-- 

Girish Kumthekar		Unix Technical Support

E mail address : girish@fnma.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: world
From: Wayne_Redman@magicbb.uucp
Organization: MAGIC - Macintosh Awareness Group In Canada
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 13:16:15 EST
Subject: 4x4 offroad racing

Anyone know how to build an offroad racer?  4x4 monster truck, got any
blueprints?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mustang GT EPA legal perfromance maximized
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 26 Dec 92 13:22:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


->      The rating of the T-5 depends on the type you get -

 The torque rating on the T5 depends on first gear.  The Chevy S10
pickup is the shortest and weakest, the ones in the Camaro and Mustang
are the tallest and strongest.


->      The Borg-Warner transmission you are reffering to (I think),
-> is called the T-56 and despite the name is a complete redesign of

 No.  You're correct - the 6 speed is a totally different box.  However,
Warner recently introduced a "second generation" T5.


->      Stick with the 5.0 - a lot can be done and remain emmsions
-> legal. Screw the Mustang's flexible chassis - stick the engine in a

 Yeah, but dollar for dollar you'd get more smiles per gallon from a fat
block.  Trust me... ;-)

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================
   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: reid@ucs.indiana.edu (Frank Reid)
Subject: Re: Isuzu oxygen sensor
Summary: switch on back of speedometer turns off light
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 02:39:36 GMT

A few days ago I posted a note asking how to reset 1988 Isuzu 
Trooper oxygen-sensor light, which came on at 90,000.0 miles.

I found it:  It's a slide switch on the backside of the 
speedometer, in lower right corner as seen from the front.  You 
can reach it from the driver's position after you have looked up 
under the instrument panel to see where it is.

Just set it to the opposite position.  Lamp-test function still 
works when you turn the key on.

--

Frank     reid@ucs.indiana.edu
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17172 rec.autos.sport:13201 rec.autos:30581 rec.autos.driving:7333
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos,rec.autos.driving
Distribution: world
From: Wayne_Redman@magicbb.uucp
Organization: MAGIC - Macintosh Awareness Group In Canada
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 13:10:28 EST
Subject: Building Stockcars

I need help buuilding a stock car actually I want to drive stockcar but I don't
know how to get in it.  I would love if Darrel Waltrip or (Richard Petty is my
hero) or Rusty Wallace or somebody would give me the chance to race and turn a
few laps to prove myself worthy.  Anyone out there listening or can help me
out, I don't even have to run laps, I JUST WANT TO LEARN!!!!!!

Thanks.

PS I really don't know ow to use the net but I'm on Magic Systems and can be reached
here.  Oh well I hope someone can figure it out and help me out.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Help!Static Charge Shock--Civic
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 20:16:50 GMT
Distribution: rec
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <92357.121616QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>, <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
|> In article <1992Dec17.170454.16567@vax5.cit.cornell.edu>,
|> derx@vax5.cit.cornell.edu says:
|> >
|> shocked from time. Actually in my country (P.R.China), many buses has a chain
|> beneath the door. Each time when the door opens, that chain drop to the ground
|> simultaneously making sure everything is discharged. On those without this
|> thing, sometimes, not always, the first passenger will take the place of that
|> chain and discharge for everyone behind when his/her foot touch the ground.

There exist strips of conductive rubber you can buy and bolt to the underside
of your car, to dangle down and maintain contact with the ground.  Quieter
than dragging a chain :-)

You may also have seen funny little pieces of wire sticking up out of the
ground about a foot just before toll-taking booths, that scrape gently against
the underside of each car as it goes through.  This is so that the toll-taker 
person doesn't melt down from discharging all those cars.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Ask me about my vow of silence."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: temperature block heater heats block to
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 15:11:52 GMT

In article <92Dec29.025235.19509@acs.ucalgary.ca> tbmorris@acs.ucalgary.ca (Thomas B. Morrison) writes:

>Two questions:
>1) What does the "block heater" heat, engine block, anti-freeze, and so on.
>   I really want to know.

the block, and much of the coolant... a *little* heat might be conducted to the
oil in the sump, but don't count on it...

>2) To what temperature does the block heater heat?  A friend of mine said
>   "To a temperature such that the car can start".  Numbers please.

well, the heater in my Diesel heats the coolant and block to right around 160F,
plenty warm enough for sub-zero starts (-25 to -30 F, around here at times)...
of course, state of tune and general condition of the engine and starting
system have much influence, too...  my 359cid Diesel *will* start unplugged
down to -20F, because I'm meticulous about its condition...

>E-mail or post.  Thanks.  My guess is the engine block is heated to
>the -10 to -15 C range. 

if that's all it's getting to you either need a bigger heater or need to leave
it plugged longer...

Walt K.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jmh@Turing.ORG (Jeffrey M. Hoffmeister)
Subject: Re: Honda/Acura Parts Interchange
Organization: The Turing Project, Public Access Internet Host
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 13:12:32 GMT

In article <19415.2b373754@ecs.umass.edu> grammer@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>Hello all,
>
>I have an '87 Honda Civic CRX, and would like to swap a larger Honda
>engine and transaxle in. A while back, I remember someone telling me 
>that many parts from the Acura Integra ('86-'90) will swap directly
>with the '84-'87 Civics, such as brakes, suspension, and powertrain.
>Can anyone verify this as correct, and have any experience with it?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Wes
>
>

I can't say for sure if the Acura will mount directly into your Honda,	
but you could probably find an engine from a CRX Si that would work.

My experience with Acura cars/parts is that they generally hold there 
value and this could make the purchase of an Acura engine VERY expensive.

Good Luck