HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: nick@brimbank.apana.org.au (Nick Langmaid)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Eucalyptus Pods
Date: 30 Sep 92 11:17:55 GMT
Organization: APANA


In article <19qcg6INNk54@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> ppk@East.Sun.COM writes:

 > I love the Eucalyptus trees that one sees around the San Francisco
 > area. The last time I was there, I picked up some pods that were on
 > the ground below a beautiful tree in the Japanese Tea Garden. My
 > question is do these pods germinate?

There was a fine explanation of collecting E. seed in an earlier follow up.
I just wanted to reinforce one point: capsules collected from the ground will
usually have already opened and released their seed.  Generally, this can
be easily seen by inspecting the capsule to see whether it has opened.
As a rule, it's better to pick the capsules from the tree.  

 > Also, since I live in the Boston area, I intend to grow it indoors.

Hope you've got lots of room!  As an aside, there are a few Eucalyptus species 
adapted to very cold climates, which is what I imagine Boston must have.
(Well, it was pretty nippy both times I visited!)  The tree that springs to 
my mind is the "snow gum" E. pauciflora, which is found in the upland regions 
of Victoria.  Don't know how you'd find such a plant in the US, though.

All the best,
Nick.

----
Nick Langmaid

Voice:     +61 3 336 3228
Internet:  nick@brimbank.apana.org.au
From: eaa@doc.ic.ac.uk (Liz Attree)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Advice needed on cold frames, please.
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Date: 2 Oct 92 13:15:11 GMT
Organization: doc, ic
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: smac-eaa.doc.ic.ac.uk



I want to build some sort of small structure in which to over-winter 
seedlings and some tender plants - just really to keep the frost away from
the plants.  Never having done this before, I don't really have any 
idea where to start.  I want to be able to make it very cheaply, and have
at my disposal lots of ordinary house bricks which I thought I could 
loosely build the outside walls with.  (I am only thinking of it being
about 4 foot long and 2 foot wide at most)  But I am not sure what to cover
it with - should it be polythene or glass?  Should the polythene be
clear to allow maximum light?  Should the cover be sloping?  Would this 
be sufficient to protect from frost?  Does it need to be opened during 
not-too-freezing days to allow air in, or could I just forget about it for
the 
whole winter?

Many thanks in advance for any suggestions.


Liz Attree (eaa@doc.ic.ac.uk)
From: louiset@informix.com (Louise Twiggs)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mushroom growing kits/spawn sources
Date: 30 Sep 92 10:43:39 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Sep28.005234.12879@leela.cs.orst.edu> lamunyj@jacobs.CS.ORST.EDU (James Lamunyon) writes:
>
>     Someone this past week posted a request for mushroom growing sources.
>I have a friend that's into fungi so I asked him and he gave me this
>source:
>
>	Fungi Perfecti
>	P.O. Box 7634
>	Olympia, WA 98507
>
>	Phone: (206)-426-9292
>	Fax:   (206)-426-9377
>
>      The brochure I saw of my freind's listed about 20 different variaties
>including shiitake, enokitaki and reishi mushrooms.  Both kits and/or spawn
>are available.  As I do not myself grow mushrooms I can not give any
>guidance, but the brochure also indicates books, supplies and advice are
>available from these folks.
>
>	
>	-James LaMunyon


I recently (bit of an impulse buy) bought a shiitake mushroom growing
kit - however I bought it without reading the instructions - when
I got it home, I had a little perusal, and found that certain types
of mushrooms only grow on hardwoods.  the instructions told me to 
either grow the spores on logs of damp wood - ie oak (there was a list
of woods that were suitable) or on bales of damp straw.  As I have
access to neither of these, I put the kit aside until such a day as I
can afford to move to my mansion in the country where oak forests and
hay fields abound!

Can anyone confirm that such specific growing conditions are required?

Louise Twiggs
Informix Software Ltd (UK)
From: drt2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DONALD R. TRIPPEER)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: indoor gardening
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:06:22 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Can anyone recommend a source of information on indoor gardening?  I am
particularly interested in information on artificial lighting and heat
required to raise plants indoors.


                                        Thanks,




                                        Don
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: When to prune grape vines
Date: 28 Sep 92 23:24:35 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

ann james (morgan) asks:

> I have a grape vine, white "seedful" variety.  My neighbor
> planted it for me about 3 years ago.  This is the first 
> season we have had a crop.  
> My question is when do I prune it and how. 

as a rule of thumb, the best time to prune is late winter/early spring

if you want top-notch grapes and healthy vines, there's really quite
a bit to successful grapevine pruning, and to the intimately related
subject, trellising -- depends too on whether you have a cultivar
better suited to cane or spur pruning

from what you said, yours could be niagara, which usually gets cane
pruning on a kniffen trellis -- professional growers often weigh
cuttings to balance plant vigor against production (can't lay my
hands on the formula right now, but i often cheat anyway and just
leave 12 buds on each of 4 producing canes, plus 2 buds on each of
4 renewal canes)

the less you've overburdened the vines with too much fruit this 
summer (a common mistake), the better they are likely to stand the 
winter and produce well for you next year

as usual, your local extension service should have plenty of
relevant pubs -- read read read :)

-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
From: gwv@helium.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Saving Tomato Plants from Certain Demise?
Date: 5 Oct 92 15:46:26 GMT
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.

In article <ABCRBWK8@cc.swarthmore.edu>, annie@cs.swarthmore.edu (Annie Fetter) writes:
|> Way back in the spring I planted two innocent-looking cherry tomato plants -
|> Sweet 100's, near some of my landlord's prize exotic plants.  Now the tomatoes
|> are about 12 feet in length, and spread all over the place :-)  There are
|> still hundreds of blossoms, and about 70 little greens tomatoes starting to
|> ripen.  My problem is this:  I live outside Philadelphia, and it is starting to
|> get cold at nite - down in the low 40's - and there's a chance of frost soon.
|> Is there any way I can move these plants, or just propogate, or do something
|> so that I don't just have to pull them up and throw them out?  Seems a shame to
|> waste such healthy, productive specimens.  Of course, my landlord agrees with
|> none of this, as he's even allergic to tomatoes....
|> 
|> Thanks for any suggestions!
|> 
|> 	-Annie
|> 
|> 
|> -- 
|>    Annie Fetter, Resident Jock   | '85 FJ1100, '89 Olmo, '88 Schwinn Traveller
|>         The Geometry Forum       |  DoD #0041, AMA #559977, AT&T 215/328 8225
|>      annie@cs.swarthmore.edu     |  "Pantyhose are the feminine equivalent of
|>    afetter1@cc.swarthmore.edu    |  tucking your t-shirt into your underwear."

     You can do several things.

    1.  To save the green fruits pull up the whole plant just before frost
and hang it upside down indoors somewhere.  Fruits will continue to ripen
for about a month if you keep the plant at room temperature (what I do);
probably longer but with more lost to rot if you keep the plant cooler
(60-65; I havent tried this).  If your living space is limited, this 
won't be very practical.

    2.  To save the plant, take cuttings and root them in water or
sand.  When they  root plant them in 6-8" pots and keep them in a sunny
windowsill.  Watch out for spider mites and whiteflies on these plants.
Sweet 100 will get very leggy indoors and it is probably a good idea
to pinch out the growing points from time to time and force bushiness.
East, West or especially SOUTH windows are good for this.

It is a good idea to keep next year's tomato seedlings away from such
overwintered plants.
  
     Spider mites can be controlled by hosing the plants with a stream of
water once a week.  In my experience you can do this outside if
the temperature is over 40 degrees and you limit exposure to less than
ah hour.   I have not figured out how to control whiteflies; yellow
sticky traps are effective but I haven't tried them because I have cats
who would lick them.

     In my opinion it is better to start new cherry tomato plants
from seed in August  for winter tomatoes.  Bush cherry tomatoes and
dwarf patio types such as Burpee Pixie are also better for pots than
a rambling variety like sweet 100.  But I am also trying sweet 100 indoors
this winter because I like the flavor.
From: gooley@netcom.com (Mark. Gooley)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: cold-weather eucalypts
Date: 30 Sep 92 20:59:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1992Sep30.205941.9965
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

Last I saw the Thompson & Morgan catalog they had a big selection of
cold-weather eucalyptus seeds.  Small, shrubby plants with white in
the stems (if memory serves) are the most hardy, supposedly.  -15 F
is about the lower limit of cold-tolerance, and so I decided against
trying to grow them outdoors in central Illinois.  Maybe a shrubby one
with winter mulch about the roots would have made it, though.

I used to grow E. ficifolia from seed bought from Park Seeds.  Bigger
gum trees outgrew pots quickly and (in my case) developed what looked
like tumors just above the soil level.  But E. ficifolia is slow-growing
(realtively) and smallish, and you might be able to keep 'em indoors
for a few years with a little pruning.

Mark., former eucalyptus enthusiast in a small way
gooley@netcom.com
From: moody@e4.ius.cs.cmu.edu (James Moody)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Organic lawn feed and weed control?  Groundcover?
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:44:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.Bvnw22.Etq.1
Reply-To: moody@cs.cmu.edu
Distribution: na
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center

I'd like some recommendations on oranic lawn feed and weed control.  I'd
rather not use the chemical waste-dump shock treatment approach of the 
previous owner.

Also, has anyone had success with using clover as a hill-stablizing 
ground cover?  I need something other than crown vetch (due to my wife's
allergies).

By the by, could someone post or e-mail the phone numbers for Gardens 
Alive! and Johnny's Selected Seeds?  Thanks!

-- 
James E. Moody Jr.	The Robotics Institute		(412) 268-2847
			Carnegie Mellon (University)	      CMU-BUGS
			Schenley Park
moody@cs.cmu.edu	Pittsburgh, PA 15213
From: woodley@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Judy Woodley)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 23:31:26 GMT
Subject: Re: cider press
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

See if there's a wine supply store in your area--you might be able to rent a
press, but I understand they are rather large and you'll need a truck, mini
van, etc. to haul it.

--Judy (I run out of energy by the time the apples come in) Woodley
  
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess)
Subject: Re: drip irrigation from a bucket?
Keywords: water drip irrigation emitters
Organization: SIlma Inc.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 00:37:10 GMT

In <1992Sep28.231906.8462@pony.Ingres.COM> erickson@Ingres.COM (Rod Erickson) writes:

>Any references on a temporary, easy way to irrigate from a container of water?

>I'm moving to a sunny, dry climate (Healdsburg CA), and want to get some vines
>started for visual screening.  When starting out, they'll need water at least
>daily; a drip system would greatly improve their chances of survival.
>The location doesn't permit keeping a hose in place.
>One day's storage capacity is a minimum; 4 days' would greatly expand our
>options.  Water conservation isn't a big issue, since we're on a good well.

>Is there an easy way to feed drip emitters from a container (bucket, barrel)?
>Does this actually work?  (Low/variable pressure, etc).

>(Apologies if this has been discussed recently.
> I'm pretty new to the newsgroup, and none of the FAQ's seem applicable.)

>Thanks for any responses.  I'll summarize email replies.
>-- 
>	Roddy Erickson		(510) 843-6337		erickson@ingres.com		

There is an automatic water valve thats ment to go on a hose and is
battery powered (9V I think). It only draws current when changing state
so battery life is excellent. There may be a minimum pressure for it to
function which may make it useless for your application. 
My back of the envelope calculation says that 1 foot of head
is about 1/3 PSI -- so the tank 30 feet above the plants would give
10 PSI at the plants. 

Where do you get one? I don't remember. Try Peaceful Valley, local
hardware and garden stores or the net!

Also be sure to double check that 1 foot = 1/3 PSI figure :-)

Andy
-- 
==============================================================================
Andrew A. Burgess            aab@cichlid.com              voice (408) 335 4779
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: ants!
Keywords: ants
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 18:59:13 GMT

In article <1992Sep25.133301.27214@spdc.ti.com> drogers@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Daty Rogers) writes:
>In article <lc4nqmINN1fo@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>>can't use the boiling water trick without blanching strawberry roots.  I've
>>sprayed a solution of water, soap, and oil a few times too and that's only a
>>short term help.
>>
>>Any success stories would be greatly appreciated!
>>
>>-Mike
>
>
>    Amdro or Logic, in other words use antbait.
>                                                   Daty
>
I've had success with cinnamon (sp?) - I pour it around whatever I want
to keep the ants out of or away from - I get it bulk from Costco & Price
Club...ants don't like cinnamon....B-)

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: del_col@ab.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: A Little Warning About Rose Hips
Date: 28 Sep 92 13:54:28 GMT
Organization: Alderson-Broaddus College

A little warning about rose hips

If you plan to use rose hips for any kind of food or drink, make sure they
come from roses that were NOT treated with systemic pesticides; otherwise
you could be concentrating and ingesting organo-phosphate poisons.

J. Del Col
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: khare@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (Kathy Hare - DCS)
Subject: DRYING PARSLY
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 06:46:07 GMT

Could anyone tell me the proper way to dry parsley? I have a big bunch 
of it I want to dry for use over the winter. 
 
Thanks Kathy

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Lawrence.London@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Lawrence London)
Subject: Mushroom picking permits available for Olympic National Forest
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 04:30:56 GMT

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST 
1835 Black Lake Blvd. 
SW Olympia, WA 98502-5623
NEWS RELEASE 
September 18, 1992 
For further information: Colleen Adams (206) 956-2406 
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE 

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST HAS PERMITS AVAILABLE FOR MUSHROOM PICKING 

OLYMPIA, WA - If you enjoy hunting for wild
mushrooms this time of year, permits are available from Olympic National
Forest.  Forest Supervisor Ron R.  Humphrey said personal and
commercial-use permits are available at ranger district offices located
around Olympic Peninsula in Hoodsport, Quilcene, Forks, and Quinault. 
According to Humphrey, a permit policy has been in effect since 1989 due
to an increasing demand for large quantities of mushrooms.  "It allows
Forest officials to manage this important natural resource," he said.  A
personal-use permit is free allowing up to 50 pounds per family.  Many
like to preserve mushrooms for later use and the permit allows for greater
quantities to be taken for home consumption.  Commercial-use permits are
required for individuals or groups intending to sell mushrooms and a fee
is charged based upon appraised prices.  For incidental gathering of less
than 20 mushrooms for a meal, a permit is not required.  Humphrey said
failure to have a permit for picking more than 20 mushrooms may result in
a citation.  Chanterelles, morels, matsutake and king boletus are
non-poisonous and the most popular mushrooms sought after on the Olympic. 
"To ensure future crops, pick or cut mushrooms one by one taking care not
to disturb growing sites," Humphrey said.  If you are unsure about
identifying mushrooms for eating, it is strongly recommended that you
refer to a mushroom guide.  Forest Service officials have information
available for the asking when obtaining a permit.  To acquire permits and
information, ranger stations can be contacted weekdays at Hoodsport,
877-5254; Quilcene, 765-3368; Forks, 374-6522; and Quinault, 288-2525. 
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: bj368@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mike E. Romano)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: RE: PROPOSAL: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Date: 29 Sep 1992 07:25:04 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


   I fully support an alt.sustainable.agriculture group and 
I agree that rec.gardening is too broad a discussion area
to necessarily attract postings in sust. agri  etc.

I also agree with the last thread from Australia about perma-
culture.
I have one of the permaculture books by Mollison and I think
the man is a genius.
There are other converging movements within farming and 
gardening toward the point of having a completely organic,
low or no maintenance, food garden.
Truly "Nature's Garden" with a little help from humans.

The reason I would like to see specific newsgroups along
the lines of what Mr. London proposes, is that I think
these areas are urgently in need of research, experimentation
and ...doing...
If there is a way to feed a family of four, say, on 2 acres
of land, feed them well and completely, instead of taking
20 to 50 acres to feed that same number, then we need to
focus this new knowledge of ==advanced farming== and make
it available to the world.
Here in California there has been a great deal of energy
put into intensive gardening combining French intensive
and biodynamic methods among others in Willits, CA by
John Jeavons and others.
Mr. Jeavons has even proposed the amount of land needed
not only to feed a certain size family but also the
precise additional land needed to produce compost, mulch,
green manure, rotation, etc.
I personally believe this whole area has been greatly
ignored or only researched sporadically.
The farm as usually defined is an operation geared to
producing an =income= as soon and as much as possible,
which generally yields a much larger (and often more
wasteful) way of thinking with regard to use of land.

It may even be possible within city areas for households
to produce =most= of the food needed from a very efficient
use of the yard area alone.  This would take a much 
different way of thinking than doing the usual ornamental
landscaping etc...but perhaps with this great recession
upon us, there will be more creative thinking applied 
to this area as well.

-- 
Capt. Kirk: let's head for that planet, third from the sun, it
            looks promising.... |-)
From: yen@stsci.edu (Felix Yen)
Subject: Re: Mushroom growing kits/spawn sources
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 19:18:36 GMT


In the better-late-than-never department:

I copied this information from a newspaper about six months ago, partly
because Mason is the county seat of Ingham county and as a teen I used
to kill time by riding from my house in East Lansing to Mason and back.
Anyway, these people are/were selling morel spawn (I think).

	Morel Mountain
	Mason, MI
	(517) 676 6373


Felix
yen@stsci.edu
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Bulb suggestions
Date: 1 Oct 92 15:26:25 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <1992Sep28.075833.14506@leela.cs.orst.edu> chrisda@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (David Christensen) writes:
>I'm looking for suggestions for bulbs to plant this fall.  I live in mild
>Western Oregon (zone 6) and have some prime space just opened up in a new
>flower bed in the front yard (fairly sunny, well-prepared soil).  

I live in Oakland, CA, and I just went bulb-browsing a few days ago.
Ignoring the tulips, briefly contemplating the daffodils. Oone place
had lots of mini-narcissus, tiny charming things. Very tempting.
But the two places I went didn't have their full stock in yet. I
came home with a few Dutch Iris, and Eranthis (Winter Aconite).

You might check on some things like Freesias, Sparaxis, Ixia,
Tritonia, etc., to see if they'll grow in your climate. Even here,
where they flourish, I don't see a lot of them, except, of course,
the Freesias. (I've collected see from my Freesias, they often
bloom the next year. And it only took 2 years for the seeds I got
from my neighbors Sparaxis to start blooming). Check the Western
Garden book, or other source, some of these are not at all frost-
tolerant.

Grape hyacinths (Muscari) are splendid! My house came with a few
clumps of them in the garden, the usual purple/blue color. There's
a white variety, and several variations on shade and shape.

Also, look at Anemones (wind flowers), I love the bright 'DeCaen'
anemones in red and purple especially. Leucojum is a lovely,
delicate cluster of white bells with a green spot on each petal,
very early. Scillas have blue or purple clusters of bell-shaped
flowers.

Excuse me if I seem to be drooling, I just started flipping through
the Random House "Bulbs" picture book by Phillips and Rix, just to
see if I missed any faves. Oh, what loves pix, what lovely flowers!