HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Black Walnut
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 15:04:42 GMT

In article <18k8lpINNnes@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ag423@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Frank Fijalkovich) writes:
>
>A friend of mine has a black walnut tree in his back yard that he
>wants removed. Does anyone know if tree is worth anything and
>who would be interested in buying it ? It is about 2 to 2.5 feet
>in diameter. Thanks in advance for any info.

Properly dried walnut currently sells for upwards of $6.50 / board foot.
If the trunk is straight for more than about twenty feet, and the tree
is easily accessible, it's worth probably about 10% of that to a logger.
Check the yellow pages for "hardwoods" under "Lumber" and try to work
backwards through the supply chain to locate a logger or sawmill that's
interested.

If you decide to have it cut up, be aware that most mills require that
each each log be at least 14' long (this varies with the type of equipment).
If the trunk is straight, branch free for at least this distance, and
sound, it should probably be "plainsawn" (also called "rolling the log").
This will give you the most clear lumber. If the tree has defects, it
should be "flitch cut" (also called "through and through"). A walnut
this size is too small for quarter-sawing (most walnuts are). Have it
cut oversize - walnut is notoriously difficult to dry, and you'll need
the extra for planing it down to size.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If train stations are where trains stop, 
                    | what are work stations?
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: banks@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Mike Banks)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 22:22:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Squaring Up Stock
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:

> In article <88060@netnews.upenn.edu> meiting@gradient.cis.upenn.edu (Mei-Ting Lu) writes:
> >
> >Could somebody out there give me some hints on squaring up stock.
> >I have a router, 4 inch portable Sears jointer, and power planer.
> >My problem is this:  by jointing or planing an edge, I can get
> >the edge to be straight, but it is not guaranteed that the
> >two cross edges will be parallel.  If I had a table saw, I guess
> >I could plane one side, and then cut the opposite side with the planed
> >side up against the fence.  But without a table saw, are there any
> >good techniques for squaring up stock?  I'm trying to square up
> >random-width/random-length stock.  
> 
> I assume you have some type of saw. If you have a hand saw, use a square
> that you know to be accurate to draw a line and use the saw to cut the
> board off a little long. Use the square again to draw a line the proper
> distance away from the end for the base of your router. Then clamp a board
> down along this line as a guide for the router and use the router to clean
> up the edge.
> 
> If you have a circular saw, use the square to draw a line the proper
> distance away from the point at which you wish to cut. Then clamp a guide
> board down to the line as a guide for your circular saw and use the saw.
> 
> If you don't have *any* kind of saw, I suppose you *could* use the
> router to cut through the board, but I'd say at that point that you
> really ought to go spend some money.

For all the (non-power) hand tool advocates, how is this done 
using *only* hand tools?

mike.
---
Michael Banks
Hewlett-Packard                              banks@hpfcla.fc.hp.com
User Interface Technology Division         banks@hpspline.fc.hp.com
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Summary: plywood & secondary wood
Summary: a
Keywords: plwood, secondary wood
Date: 15 Sep 92 17:40:02 GMT
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology

I just wanted to post the concensus from my requests for information.  Thanks to
all who sent e-mail, I got lots of great tips.

The first question was what to use for "secondary" wood on a hard wood hutch. (ie
wood that doesn't show in the finished project).  The majority of people suggested
poplar, which is almost as cheap, or cheaper than pine, and much more stable.
That's a great idea that I hadn't thought of.


The second question was about using hardwood plywood for large projects.  Almost
everyone thought it was a good idea for the obvious advantages of strength and
stability of plywood.  Most felt that by using high quality plywood, it could look
as good as a solid wood project.


Thanks again for the very helpful advice.


ak       
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Plans/kits for cider press?
Date: 8 Sep 92 03:44:20 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <busey.715909316@milton> busey@milton.u.washington.edu (Thomas Busey) writes:
>I'm looking for plans or an inexpensive kit for a simple table-top cider press.
>The basic premise looks simple enough, I think I just need the plans, and a 
>source for the specialty hardware.  This must have been covered by some 
>magazine somewhere, but I haven't seen an article.  I did notice an ad for
>plans in the back of Harrowsmith.

I've seen a plan for a ~100lb capacity press.  It had no "specialty" parts.  Just
lumber (frame made out of 4x4s), canvas, big bolts, and a 2 ton hydraulic
automotive "bottle" jack.  You'd probably also need two small steel plates (ie:
4x4x1/4").  Looked like you could build it for about $50 if you had to buy
everything.  If you really insisted on a screw type version, you could probably
convert this plan and use a woodworking vise kit, but it'd cost more.

The plan was distributed, I believe, by the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture,
but it was noted as having been developed at a University in the States.
Delaware maybe?  It was designed for small home-producers.  Your ag extension
agent may be able to track it down for you.

Tho, this thing is a bit bigger than a table-top unit.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Organization: Graduate School of Industrial Administr., Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: Tue,  8 Sep 1992 09:26:35 -0400 
From: Pamela Snyder <ps3x+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: ceramic tile

I am a completely amateur, learn as you go handyperson. I want to join
wood trim to ceramic tile in my bathroom. Can anyone tell me if that is
possible and what kind of adhesive do I use?


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jjoslin@kingcong.UWaterloo.ca (Jeff Joslin)
Subject: Re: Polyurethane advice for hot dry climate?
Organization: University of Waterloo
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 00:15:19 GMT

gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten) writes:
>
>It seems quite interesting that several regular posters have had problems
>with bubbles, while others of us have had no problems with them.  Perhaps 
>we should look further into the bubbles business.   

I'd read that there is a defoaming agent available to add to water-based 
finishes, but I've never been able to find it in stores.  But in the 
August 1991 issue of Fine Woodworking, I found the following in an 
ariticle by Chris A. Minick on "Water-Base Finishes":

	One of the most common and annoying problems that occurs 
	while applying water-base finishes is foaming and bubbling,
	especially if you use a brush.  The foaming is caused by 
	soap-like materials (surfactants and leveling agents) that
	keep the resin in emulsion and help the finish flow out.
	I've found that I can eliminate the problem most of the 
	time by adding a "defoamer" in the form of about 1 oz. of
	mineral spirits to a gallon of finish.  Mineral spirits
	seems to decrease the final finish's gloss a bit, but 
	this is barely detectable.  Chicago, Ill., woodworker John
	Kriegshauser discovered that he could use 1 oz. of half-
	and-half (cream and milk) to a gallon of finish as a defoamer.
	Although this may seem a little unconventional, the chemical 
	structure of milk fat is very similar to some commercially
	made defoamers.  I've tried half-and-half and it worked
	amazingly well and didn't change the finish's final gloss.

I haven't tried this, but I will the next time I use a water-based finish.

Jeff

-- 
Jeff Joslin                            University of Waterloo grad student

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: Safely cutting off small pieces on a table saw?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Distribution: na
Date: 14 Sep 92 12:39:18

In article <1992Sep14.133745.13170@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery) writes:

   I occasionally use my table saw to cut off small pieces, such as
   cutting off short segments of thin dowels or cutting out the waste
   piece while making lap joints in small pieces.  Frequently, the
   cut off piece catches in the blade and is shot across the room,
   and while it isn't big enough or fast enough to do major damage, it's
   still scary and inconvenient if that is the piece you were trying
   to use (like a short dowel segment).  I could use a hand saw for
   these cuts, but the table saw is neater and more accurate, and I'd
   like to be able to make cuts like this without firing bullets
   across my shop.  Any suggestions?

A good method,  which I believe I learned from NYW,  is to clamp a 
stop block to the fence,  in front of the blade and use this to 
position the stock before the cut.  The stop block stops well
before the begining of the blade and this prevents a very
dangerous (and almost certain) kickback.  My old method was just to 
mark the work and cut.  The important thing is not to use the 
fence to measure a cross-cut ever.

	blade	fence
		||
	|	||
	|	||
	|	||
		||
-------------___||
       work ||  ||<--- stop block
-------------|__||
  mitre         ||
  gauge


--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier)
Subject: Re: Squaring Up Stock
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 16:48:20 GMT
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

banks@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Mike Banks) writes:
: In rec.woodworking, patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
: 
: > If you have a circular saw, use the square to draw a line the proper
: > distance away from the point at which you wish to cut. Then clamp a guide
: > board down to the line as a guide for your circular saw and use the saw.
: > 
: > If you don't have *any* kind of saw, I suppose you *could* use the
: > router to cut through the board, but I'd say at that point that you
: > really ought to go spend some money.
: 
: For all the (non-power) hand tool advocates, how is this done 
: using *only* hand tools?
: 

With a hand plane! It will take you less time to do it by hand tools
than it will to set up everything for the power tools. Stanley makes
a plane specifically for squaring up an edge. I think the number is 787 - 
someone help me out here. Woodcraft carries it, and from what I remember
it's reasonably priced. It's a metal bodied plane.

MMF
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 14 Sep 1992 11:10:20 CDT
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Which side gets the cleaner cut?
              11 Sep 1992 18:51:09 GMT from <billn@HPCVAAC.CV.HP.COM>

On Fri, 11 Sep 1992 18:51:09 GMT bill nelson said:
>JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
>: On Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:25:47 GMT david.boyle said:
>: >I have some bi-fold closet doors to put up which need to be trimmed less
>than
>: >1" to better accommodate the rug.  I was planning on trimming the bottom of
>: >the doors on a RAS.  What type of blade should I be using for a "clean" cut?
>: >Should I place the finish side up or down when cutting?  Any other ideas to
>: >keep the door from splintering etc?  Thanks in advance.........Dave
>:
>: I'd temporarily tack a strip of 1/4" plywood to both sides of the line to be
>: cut and set the opposite end of the door with a 1/4" spacer to keep the door
>: nice and flat during the cut
>
>I am not sure what you are proposing. The best ways are to 1) scribe the
>cutting line with a very sharp knife, to a depth of about 1/16 inch. Then
>make your cut just "slightly" to the scrap side of this line. The other
>way is to tape the line and cut through the tape - this minimizes chipping.
>
>This should be a rip cut that you will be making. There should be minimal
>chipping - no matter whether you use one of the above methods, or not.
>A good combination blade should work fine. From my experience, carbide
>blades do not seem to cut as cleanly as a well sharpened steel blade. I
>am not too sure why that is the case, maybe I have never been able to get
>a well sharpened carbide blade.
>
>On a radial-arm saw - the work goes face (finish side) up. Any chipping
>should then be confined to the back side.
>
>Bill

Bill,
To clarify, I was recommending the same procedure you recommended with
tape only using scrap 1/4" plywood in place of the tape.  I have alot of 1/4"
around (trimmings from cabinet backs) and this seems to be the best use for it.
By the way, to give credit where credit is due I believe George Patterson(?)
also recommended using tape over the cut line....sounds good to me.

Jeff Roberts jroberts@utdallas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: herman@tellabs.com (Dale Herman)
Subject: Workbench Plans Wanted
Originator: herman@sunk15
Organization: Tellabs, Inc., Lisle, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 13:10:54 GMT

I am looking for books or magazine articles that have detailed (dimensioned
drawings and materials lists) plans for woodworking workbenches. Please email
all responses. I'll post a summary of all the information I receive.

Thanks,

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Dale E. Herman				     herman@tellabs.com
Tellabs Operations, Inc., Lisle, Il.	     ->insert witty quote here<-
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
-- 
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Dale E. Herman				     herman@tellab1.tellabs.com
Tellabs Operations, Inc., Lisle, Il.	     ->insert witty quote here<-
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Subject: Addresses...
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 17:08:14 GMT


Does anybody have the corporate addresses for :

  Grizzly 
  Delta
  Powermatic
  Porter Cable
  Makita
  Milwaukee
  Bosch
  Black & Decker

I am going to write to them and try to sell them on the
idea of trading cards for their tools too...


Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:17:39 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Table Saw Kickback

How high was your blade.  Recently on this net there were several
comments about how high the blade should be set when cutting with a
table saw.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: taylort@happy.rtp.dg.com (Tad Taylor - SQA Security Poobah)
Subject: Turning trees into boards (Was Re: Black Walnut)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 92 16:07:49 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, RTP, NC.

In article <DRAND.92Sep9111411@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
>In article <18k8lpINNnes@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ag423@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Frank Fijalkovich) writes:
>
>   A friend of mine has a black walnut tree in his back yard that he
>   wants removed. Does anyone know if tree is worth anything and
>   who would be interested in buying it ? It is about 2 to 2.5 feet
>   in diameter. Thanks in advance for any info.
>

In a similar vein, I have a few trees to take down at my house
and I'm interested in methods of turning them into usable lumber,
without spending a fortune.  Does anyone have experience with any of
the various methods in the <$500 range?  Those that come to mind are:

  o  Chain saw attachments.  These are relatively cheap, on the order
     of $150, but I don't know how well they work.  I already have the
     chainsaw.

  o  Something called "Ripsaz" or similar.  It's basically a bandsaw
     you move on rails.  This looks promising and I'm waiting for
     information from the manufacturer.  Don't know what it costs and
     if it fits in my price range.

  o  Anything else?

I suggest sending e-mail to me and I'll summarize for the net.

Tad Taylor

/* Tad Taylor                          |      919-248-6374                   */
/* Data General Corporation            |      taylort@dg-rtp.dg.com          */
/* 62 T.W. Alexander Dr.               |      FAX: 919-248-5942              */
/* Research Triangle Park, NC 27709    |(ceo) tad_taylor@dgc.ceo.rtp.dg.com  */


/* Tad Taylor                          |      919-248-6374                   */
/* Data General Corporation            |      taylort@dg-rtp.dg.com          */
/* 62 T.W. Alexander Dr.               |      FAX: 919-248-5942              */
/* Research Triangle Park, NC 27709    |(ceo) tad_taylor@dgc.ceo.rtp.dg.com  */
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (david.boyle)
Subject:  Which side gets the cleaner cut?             
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:25:47 GMT

I have some bi-fold closet doors to put up which need to be trimmed less than
1" to better accommodate the rug.  I was planning on trimming the bottom of
the doors on a RAS.  What type of blade should I be using for a "clean" cut?
Should I place the finish side up or down when cutting?  Any other ideas to
keep the door from splintering etc?  Thanks in advance.........Dave
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Pine weight
Date: 6 Sep 92 17:41:11 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1992Sep5.104824.17370@ucunix.san.uc.edu> peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson) writes:

>Southern yellow pine:
>
>   15% moisture 35.7 > 43.9 #/ft^3
>    8% moisture 34.6 > 42.6 #/ft^3
>
>   1k board ft @ 15% -- 2180 > 2680 #'s (dressed)

Much thanks. This is exactly what I need!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bosch Router
Keywords: router table 1613evs
Date: 9 Sep 92 13:06:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: clpd.1992Sep9.130657.3942
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division

I have been looking at the new Bosch 1613EVS 2 hp plunge router for
use primarily in a router table. The micro adjustment control seems
like an excellent choice for use under a router table. I spoke to my
local woodworking tool dealer about my concerns of mounting a plunge
router upside down in a table and he said that the micro adjustment
control helps to aleviate these problems.
	Has anybody out there used this router in a router table with
success? Do you think that the 2hp model is enough power for most all
routing jobs including the new vertivle panel raising bits? I am
looking for the best router to fit into a custom router table and am
having troubles finding the best one for the job. Could the Bosch
1613evs be it?????

John
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: armstrng@cs.dal.ca (Stan Armstrong)
Subject: Why use anything but a butt joint?
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 14:04:24 GMT

I understand about the mechanical strengths of various interlocking joints.
I understand about the increased glue surface areas of various joints.

However, modern glues are "stronger than the wood."

Why use anything but a butt joint?

Does the answer lie in the word "stronger"? Are the glues stronger under
tension but not under sheer, or something like that?

Does the answer lie in differences in the strength of the wood? It is much
easier to fracture along the grain than across the grain.

Does the answer lie in changes in glue strength with age?

I know that end-grain to long-grain glue joints are weak. But I have in mind
other kinds of "butt" joints, that is, joints with no mechanical support.
Most people agree that edge glued joints have no need of mechanical
strengthening or increased glue surface. What about a lap joint where no
cuts have been used--just cross two sticks and glue them surface to
surface at the crossing?

As a corollary to my question: Are there other traditional joints, besides,
dowelled edge joints, which have been obsoleted by modern glues?
-- 
Stan Armstrong. Religious Studies Dept, Saint Mary's University, Halifax, N.S.
Armstrong@husky1.stmarys.ca | att!clyde!watmath!water!dalcs!armstrng
From: meiting@gradient.cis.upenn.edu (Mei-Ting Lu)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Squaring Up Stock
Date: 6 Sep 92 13:07:43 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


Could somebody out there give me some hints on squaring up stock.
I have a router, 4 inch portable Sears jointer, and power planer.
My problem is this:  by jointing or planing an edge, I can get
the edge to be straight, but it is not guaranteed that the
two cross edges will be parallel.  If I had a table saw, I guess
I could plane one side, and then cut the opposite side with the planed
side up against the fence.  But without a table saw, are there any
good techniques for squaring up stock?  I'm trying to square up
random-width/random-length stock.  

Thanks for the help,

-Meiting Lu
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Date: 8 Sep 92 23:16:48 GMT
Organization: A.I. Chem Lab, University of Arizona

In article <Flatline.0kag@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca> Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline) writes:
>I'd like to be a molding nerd but I can't find Real Molding planes. Has 
>anyone ever made a pair of molding or raised panel planes?
>
>-- Via DLG Pro v0.992

FWW had some articles on how to make your own molding planes.   I have made
three special purpose molding, and 4 bench planes.   I was taught how to
make bench planes by chisling, and not by the laminate method.

These things are not dead simple to make,  but are more fiddly than
difficult.   Paticence, and attention to detail at each step of the way
is what is needed.

I wish I could figure out how to make tapered plane irons.  Now that my
shop is back together,  I am getting serious about making my "WOW" bench
plane with carved and inlayed details.

Tom
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking