HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune)
Subject: Re: spark plugs
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 92 03:19:30 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

I think you'll find that most spark plugs will perform about the same for any
given application, assuming the motor to be in good working order.  There is
little (certainly no appreciable) power to be gained by changing spark plugs
unless you're using the wrong ones in the first place.  From experience, I'd
say NGK or NipponDenso make the best plugs for Hondas in the standard
category.  If you're looking for a "premium" plug, Bosch Platinums should
last a bit longer, as should Champion H.O.T. (High Output Technology) and
Splitfire plugs.  Note though that these plugs can cost as much as 5X a
regular plug.  In general, I'd advise staying away from Champion's standard
plugs, as well as ACs if your engine is burning oil...

-- 
-Paul Yoshimune [pauly@netcom.com]
From: dean@cbmvax.commodore.com (Jeff Dean - LSI Test)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Electric pump oil remover
Date: 13 Apr 92 11:53:29 GMT
Reply-To: dean@cbmvax.commodore.com (Jeff Dean - LSI Test)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1992Apr11.215614.5456@news.Hawaii.Edu> yee@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Jonathan Yee) writes:
>Hi, I recently saw an ad for an electric pump that sucks out the oil from
>a car.  The advantages are supposed to be that the whole process is neat
>and one doesn't need to slide under the car or turn a wrench..
>The way it works is that an inlet tube is put into the dipstick hole, and
>the outlet tube is put into some other waste container.  Turn on the pump,
>and, there you have it -- in 5 minutes -- a car ready for fresh oil input.
>The cost of the gadget is $19.95, mail order.  Anybody with experiences or
>comments about it they'd like to post on this, new invention, I think?

No, a car ready for fresh oil already has a fresh oil filter installed.
That little pump won't make changing the filter any cleaner, and in some 
cases you'll still need to crawl under the vehicle to swap filters anyway.

jd
-- 
==============================================================================
|   |\ /|                                               Commodore Technology |
|   'O O`   Jeffrey Dean                                   1200 Wilson Drive |
|   > v <   VLSI Test and Design Assurance            West Chester, PA 19380 |
|     ^                                            dean@cbmvax.commodore.com |
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson)
Subject: Re: Two questions about tires...
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 23:00:06 GMT

jcyuhn@brchh467.bnr.ca (James Yuhn) writes:
>Miata>Dunlop D60-M2's

>Taurus>Either drive it like it was meant to be driven (HARDER)
	or decrease the negative camber.[wasn't that simple?]

> BTW, I can recommend to all the SHO owners out there, don't go
> to 225 section tires - it seems to accentuate the wear problem.
> Also, the steering is heavier, and the car has less of a sense
> of "straight ahead."
>
  the brake threshold is higher, the lateral acceleration is greater,
  and i'm don't think that toeing out the front tires will help a bit.

  Give me a break!

  >DAVE (johnson@WRS.COM)
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Monday, 13 Apr 1992 18:21:20 EDT
From: David Tascarella <DST1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Passing cars on the right...why?
Distribution: usa
 <1992Apr13.082231.29757@leland.Stanford.EDU>

In article <1992Apr13.082231.29757@leland.Stanford.EDU>,
tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) says:
>
>
>might also be because there was somebody in the right lane behind them.
>that way, the car behind is blocking the line of sight to your car
>in that lane.  makes it harder for a cop get behind you and clock you.
>of course, she can just pace you in another lane, but this way she
>can't use her radar unless she gets right behind you.
>presumably, you'll spot her maneuvering to get behind you...
>
>i have to admit that i have passed on the right just for this
>reason.  i've also moved further to the right just after passing
>somebody so that there will be a car immediately behind me and
>blocking the line of sight from behind.  it worked for me last year.
>i was doing 80 and had a car fairly close behind me.
>in my mirror, i saw a cop suddenly appear in the left lane (he had
>probably just gotten on) and close rapidly.  i had time to get legal
>before he came alongside.  he took off after somebody else in the
>left lane, up ahead.  if i'd been cruising in the left lane,
>i would've been a goner.
>
>for me, it's not driving in the right lane... it's making sure
>there's somebody "safe" fairly close behind you, if possible.
>i do try not to pass on the right, but i also like my license
>and i drive fast.


Now, i usually dont reply to such articles he way that I am about to, but this
is something that really p*sses me off when I am on the interstates.   People t
hat pass on the right are dangerous!   In many states, it is illegal to pass on
the right.   The primary reason why is because of the huge blind spot to the ri
ght rear of every driver.   Also, many cars do not have passenger side sideview
mirrors.  Thus making the blind spot worse.

In addition, the right lane is for SLOWER moving traffic. By continually passin
g on the right, you are going to have to weave in and out of the slower traffic
, thus setting up an even more dangerous scenario. I dont know how many miles o
n the intersates some of you travel, but I know that most of the accidents that
 I have actually seen (not from the right lane) were because some idiot was tra
veling about 20 mph faster in the right lane and drove up on someone as they we
re moving from a left lane to the right lane.  Have you ever noticed that most
accidents on the interstate involve the right rear quarter of at least one of t
he cars???

OK, I know that there are a number of left lane junkies out there that never
leave that lane.  In those instances, I usually just flick up my highbeams once
 or twice to get their attention and they usually move over.  ONly in a rare in
stance do I pass on ther right after a car just will not move over and only whe
n I can put at least ten feet between our cars from side to side..

Just a major gripe on my part....                    Dave
From: carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Japan could be skirting $30 billon in U.S. taxes annually
Date: 17 Apr 92 18:07:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cayman Systems Inc., Cambridge, MA
In-reply-to: lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com's message of 17 Apr 92 01:26:39 GMT


>   I suspect the American businessmen are just jealous because they
>   haven't figured out how to do this yet!

Oh, they've figured it out alright, they're just po'd because someone
ELSE has figured out THEIR scams and is using them too!	

-Carl-
--
From: aqn@tivoli.UUCP (Andy Nguyen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Don't buy japanese(WHY?)
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:18:41 GMT
Reply-To: aqn@tivoli.UUCP (Andy Nguyen)
Distribution: na
Organization: Tivoli Systems Inc., Austin, TX

+You guys are still using _MANUFACTURERS_ data for power.  What makes
+you think that 1 hp on _Honda's_ dyno will exactly equal 1 hp on
+_Chyrsler's_?  Do you think that the guys who stick those numbers on
+the ads really tell the truth?

garyh@sco.COM (< Gary H >) writes:
+Good point, but we need something to go on....

matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper) writes:
+  Not such a good point.  1HP == 1HP.  It's a standard measurement, just like
+a foot or a volt is.

  No.  A good point!  |-)  1 HP at the crankshaft is _not_ equivalent to 1 HP
  at the crankshaft _with_ accessories (alternator, A/C, etc...) attached
  which is not equivalent to 1 HP at the rear wheel.  Furthermo', a "regular"
  (SAE? ISO?) hp is not the same as a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards?) hp.

-- 
Andy Nguyen / Team Paranoid
(212) 267-7722				...!uunet!tivoli!aqn  OR  aqn@tivoli.com
From: henry@netlink.cts.com (Henry Sevilla)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Sprockets' alignment
Date: 12 Apr 92 05:40:43 GMT
Organization: NetLink Online Communications, San Diego CA

mdrayton@hpmwtd.HP.COM (Mike Drayton) writes:
> ----------
> What this procedure is about is ensuring that the crank, valves, and
> distributor are all thinking about the same thing at the same time.
> 

[Much deleted] Thanks for that info.

> If, as you say, the distributor comes out 180 out from where
> you think it should be, perhaps it's going to fire cylinder #6,
> which you said is also at TDC.  Check the distributor rotor position
> to see which spark plug will get the juice.  Whichever one it is,
> those valves must be closed, and the compression stroke must just 
> have been completed.
> 

   Well, since my chain was loose, as well as the distributor sprocket, it'd 
probably be hard to tell what cylinder it would be  firing on once I aligned 
it.  It seems from what you say though, that I could safely seal up my 
engine, timing chain/sprockets aligned to 1st cylinder TDC and play around 
with the distributor after the engine is closed up? I assume I would
have to pull it out of the engine and re-mesh its gear properly. That leads 
me to my final question then...How do I do that? :) 
  The chilton's manual has a section for installation of dist w/timing 
lost.. is that what is needed here?

      -Henry

--                    
INTERNET:  henry@netlink.cts.com (Henry Sevilla)
UUCP:   ...!nosc!ryptyde!netlink!henry
NetLink Online Communications * Public Access in San Diego, CA (619) 435-6181
From: my@laverde.nsc.com (Mike Yip)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Cars under $10000 - recomendations?
Keywords: Nissan Sentra
Date: 14 Apr 92 03:05:15 GMT
Reply-To: my@laverde.nsc.com
Organization: National Semiconductor Corp.

In article 4966@cs.mcgill.ca, tinyguy@cs.mcgill.ca () writes:
>What would be a good car to buy for the first time buyer?
>Something relatively cheap, say, under $10,000US or $12,000CA ?

I would highly recommend the Nissan Sentra.  It is pretty cheap and
VERY RELIABLE.  I bought a Sentra 88, didn't know much about maintance
and didn't spend more on maintance.  It is running very very well.

I would also recommend the Saturn SL1.  The SL2 is more than 10000.

>   - Reliability for the next four years.
The Sentra is very reliable.

>   - Resale value in four years.
Not as high as, say, Honda Civic.

>   - Fuel Economy.
Very good.  But not as good as the new Civic.

>   - Reasonable performance.
Excellent performance (for the money).

>   - Parts/repair cost.
Don't know.  Didn't need to repair the car yet.

>   - Lotsa features.
Not much features.  It is a basic car.  
If you buy the Saturn, you will get a cheap radio.  ;-)


>Any comments from the following choices?
>
>   - Chevrolet Cavalier.
>   - Ford Escort/Mercury Tracer.
>   - Honda Civic.
Excellent car, but more expensive.  It also has driver side
air bag as standard.

>   - Hyundai Elantra.
Very good car.  But you can get better for the money.

>   - Hyundai Excel.
Don't buy it.  It has no power at all.

>   - Nissan Sentra.
Excellent car.

>   - Saturn Sedan.(SL1/SL2?)
Pastic body panel.  And supposed to be very reliable also.

>   - Toyota Corolla.
Good car for the money.

>   - Toyota Tercel.
Don't buy it.  It has the worse performance.  And it is way 
too small.  ;-)


I would say narrow down the choices to Sentra, Civic, Saturn and Corolla.




---
| Michael Yip			Email: my@berlioz.nsc.com
| National Semiconductor Corp	Voice: (408) 721-5148
| 
| Of course, this is my own opinion!
From: gregb@netlink.cts.com (Greg Beron)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Recall notice - heaters
Date: 15 Apr 92 23:21:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: netlink.wePaJB1w164w
Organization: NetLink Online Communications, San Diego CA

Did anyone see the report on Good Morning America (I thinnk) on a recall
on cars having problems with heater cores exploding?  I missed it, but
am very interested in knowing what manufacturers were mentioned.
-Greg

--                    
INTERNET:  gregb@netlink.cts.com (Greg Beron)
UUCP:   ...!nosc!ryptyde!netlink!gregb
NetLink Online Communications * Public Access in San Diego, CA (619) 435-6181
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: Re: Common electrical problem
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: dal
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 14:56:59 GMT

In <1992Apr9.003349.9382@rdr.com> randy%rdr.com@uu.psi.com (Randy Tidd) writes:

>In article <17739@oasys.dt.navy.mil> lung@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Terence Lung)  
>writes:
>> If your wall electrical outlet doesn't provide, what can be wrong?
>> 
>> ok. ok.  this has next to nothing to do with autos!  but the 
>> mentality requires the same.  what do we say about a new newsgroup...
>> rec.homes.repair?????

>Okay, speaking of bizarre electrical things... on my new GTI (yes I'm the  
>one that posted a few days ago about the coolant light and stuck oil  
>filter), every time I get out of the car, I get a static shock.  It only  
>happens when my feet are grounded (i.e. on the ground) and I touch a metal  
>part of the car, and only immediately after I get out.  It gets worse the  
>longer I drive!  I get some real doozies when I drive even 10 or 15 miles  
>across town to get to the office.  It's gotten to the point where I'm  
>always sure to touch the car with a clothed part of my body to decrease  
>the pain of the shock.

>Okay.  What's up?

>Randy
>randy@rdr.com

Yeah, its like a ghost!!! Its there for 2 weeks and then it goes away for a
couple of months, then it comes back again. One day I decided to take a look
on how strong the ghost was. I kept reducing the distance between the handle
and my finger and when I was about 1.5 cm away from the handle, I SAW IT. It
was blue, and zig-zagy like a lighting flash. (It hurt too) Now the zapping
ghost went to haunt someone else, (you I guess). 
	Seriously? I don't know what causes it, but I just sit it out for
those couple of weeks. At least you know you are not alone being haunted by
the VW zapping ghost.

Andy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: <<< Mustang Powered Miata >>>
Reply-To: kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown)
Organization: Minimal.
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 03:38:05 GMT

In article <73691@netnews.upenn.edu> jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines) writes:
>In article <1992Apr10.062833.17928@menudo.uh.edu> kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown) writes:
>
>>I've heard you can rent Ferraris and the like for on the order of $150 per
>>day.  I don't know if that fee covers insurance or not.  If it does, it
>>would *definitely* be worth the money just to have the experience.
>
>	I've seen them for around $450 but never as low as $150 (I'd
>have rented it in a second).  Even the Corvettes (the 'even' has nothing 
>to do with the performance of the Corvette (no flames pleaee) but
>has to do with its price in comparison to the Ferraris) and Mustang
>convertibles I've seen for rent were $150 to $300 a day (I used to
>have a Conv. Mustang GT ('87), I'd have rented it for $150 a day - would
>have covered the payments pretty quick).

Even $450 or so would be worth it, just for the experience.  To do it once.

>>they're using (admittedly, there are few things they could do better, e.g.
>>the body flex and 4-wheel disc brakes.  But as I said, the former is easily
>>fixable with inexpensive subframe connectors, and rear disc brake kits *are*
>>available.  The most important feature that's missing on the current
>>Mustang is anti-lock brakes, which requires discs on all four corners).
>>
>Actually, not all ABS systems require four-wheel disc brakes.  The lower
>cost GM system (the NEW Bonneville, even in the SSEi form has drum rears)
>and the systems used on most trucks work with drum brakes.  I think the
>system used on the new Cavaliers has rear drums?  What about the new 
>Honda Civic system - do they use rear drums, I can't remember.  I always 
>wondered why Ford didn't just take the anti-lock rear brakes
>from the 'F' series trucks and put it on the Mustang (I probably
>would complain about that two, the poor rear-only ABS systems are a pain
>when autocrossing, rear end doesn't react like you want it to).

I have to wonder whether or not anyone has come out with a good aftermarket
ABS system for the Mustangs, preferably one that can be used with either
the rear drums or aftermarket rear discs.  I'm aware of some "ABS" systems
that simply pulse the entire brake system when you mash on the brakes
hard enough, but that kind of system is obviously inferior to the more
advanced ABS systems that deal with each wheel independently.  It's the
latter type that I'm interested in.

>Jason R. Haines		     University of Pennsylvania (SEAS & Wharton)


		Kevin Brown (kevin@taronga.taronga.com)
From: lharris@hubcap.clemson.edu (Larry Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: <<< Mustang Powered Miata >>>
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:13:25 GMT
Organization: Clemson University

dcg@mogun.UUCP (David Gunsul) writes:

>> it's *impossible* to be "wrong" about what a sports car is.  It's a subjective
>> thing (IMHO, of course).

>Hmmm, you may have a point there.

>That is a possible explanation for some of the American cars going bad as well.
>People now-a-days just don't get into taking care of their cars like they did
>a few years back so they run like crap.
>It's a shame there used to be a time when the car was thought of as a friend and
>not just another machine.

>Sometimes I think people don't give enough credit to the Mustangs and Camaros,
>everyones always pushing for improvement and don't get me wrong I like improvement
>too but these cars are old "warriors" of the drag-strip that have survived the
>toughest test of anything, time and have come out with dignity.

>                       David Gunsul 

I think that this is one of the best posts I've see you write.  As a
Mustang owner myself, I have to agree.  No Japanese manufacturer has
even attempted to make a car comprable to the Mustang's style, which I
guess is very distinctly american.  It is a car that is far from
perfection, but in a way, that's half the fun.  There's nothing quite
like experiencing tire smoking power on overstear!!!  Sure its not to
practicle... but fun... hell yeah!!  To bad I can't affoard to buy new
tires every month.  The Mustang also leaves plenty of room for the shade
tree mechanic to make his own improvements, something those sealed
engine Japanese cars don't offer (I'm not really critisizing them for
it, though).

-- 
-Larry Harris-                |  '86 Mustang lx 5.0 notchback
lharris@hubcap.clemson.edu    |  Meyer's Tow'd Dune Buggy
lharris@clemson.bitnet        |  OS-9, a leaner meaner UNIX
Clemson Computer Engineering  |  RUSH, YES, R.E.M, The Who
From: alan@lancaster.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Engine Braking - what causes it?
Date: 17 Apr 92 15:23:26 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

In article <181111@pyramid.pyramid.com>, lstowell@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Lon Stowell) writes:
|> >
|>      If the throttle is closed, the downward moving piston IS NOT
|>      providing "power" or "energy" to the system other than the tiny
|>      amount of compressed air left above the piston after the valves
|>      all close...

Boy do I feel silly... All these years I thought the valves closed PRIOR to the
compression stroke.



-- 
Alan Hepburn           "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain
National Semiconductor       a little temporary safety deserve neither
Santa Clara, Ca              liberty nor safety."
alan@berlioz.nsc.com                              Benjamin Franklin
From: M20051@mwvm.mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Honda Prelude Manual
Date: 17 Apr 92 12:48:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: mwvm.167CC7C00.M20051
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102


 
In article <5649@stl.co.uk>
cjc@bnr.co.uk (C.Chambers) writes:
 
>
>I am looking for a Honda Prelude manual, Year 1987. Haynes do not seem to print
>one in England. All I can get hold of is a garage manual at about $45. Does any
>one know of anything else on the market.
>
>Thanks in advance.
 
You can get it from
Helm, Inc
Publications Division
P.O. Box 07280
Detroit, MI  48207
Toll Free 800-782-4356 (for credit card orders only)
or        313-883-1430  (if you can't use the 800 toll free number)
 
1987 Prelude
Service manual, form number 61SB004, cost $42
Elec Trouble-Shooting, form number 61SB004EL, cost $25.50
Owners Manual, form number 31SB0640, cost $10.50
Owners Manual, form number 31SF0620, cost $10.50  (for 2.0 liter engine)
 
They also add a handling charge of $3.50 per order and list a
Canadian postage charge of $6.50. I don't know how they handle postage
to Great Britain. The price list I have says it expired in Jan 92, so
the prices might be a little higher now.
 
Bruce Carlson
carlson@mitre.org
From: blanch@hpcupt1.cup.hp.com (David Blanchard)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 00:16:56 GMT
Subject: 911 Porsche For Sale
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.autos

For Sale:

1971 911E Porsche

This car is a good autox/project car. It is functional and reasonably
priced. It is not a perfect car. It is, after all, 20 years old. 911E
types have good performance and are not as tweeky as 911S types of
similar vintage.

I have never seen this car, although the lady that owns has been
telling me about ever since she bought it.

2.2 liter - Mechanical Fuel Injection
Miles: 120,000 Rebuilt in German shop @ 97k
Color: Ice Blue, not original, in fair condition
Rust Free underneath, but some small rust at bottom of drivers door.
     Small (2") crease in LR fender & RR Bumper slightly bent
Interior worn
R Heat Exchanger needs work
Trans synchros good, but clutch chatters
Has had considerable suspension work in past 9k miles:
    Ball Joints
    Tie Rods
    R Control Arm
    Alignment
    Front Struts (original hydropneumatic(?) replaced with normal
       mechanical)
    New Front steel calipers (Comes with a set of S calipers that need
      to have the pistons rebuilt
    New Master cylinder
    Tuneup
    Momo Steering Wheel
    Chain Tensioners
Wheels/Tires: 14x5.5 alloys with BFG R1 205/60

Dwight Mitchell has intimate knowledge of this car and would be
willing to give a synopsis to an interested person. Dwight is a 
national champion autocrosser who has a well respected Porsche
repair shop in Sacramento.

Asking price: $8000

Contact:
        Nikki Duncan
        c/o River City Nursing
        3353 Bradshaw Rd. #209
        Sacramento, CA  95827
        (916) 361-7096
Xref: sparky rec.autos:10768 rec.autos.vw:2183