HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: nbrotz@poplar15 (Norb Brotz)
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:48:09 CDT

mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
: |> In the Hayes auto A/C book I picked up to learn this stuff implies
: |> using the gage pressure scale for reference (or I should say
: |> does not mention using the R12 scale. 
: 
: I concur with James Swonger's comments on A/C gage pressures and diagnosis.  The inner
: R12 scale can also be used for a quick charge check.  That scale basically indicates the
: temperature of R12 that would give that pressure reading.  
: 
: In the early morning a car usually has had time to cool down to ambient temperature overnight
: and it is not yet being heated up by the sun.  Threfore the ambient temperature is usually the
: same as the temperature of the A/C system.  If you connect the gage at this time, the inner R12
: reading should match the ambient temperature if your have a sufficient charge.  
: 
: If the indicated R12 temperature is less, you are undercharged.  If the indicated R12
: temperature is more, you are overcharged.  Rather simple and you don't have to deal  with
: those higher running pressures.  This method is not precise (doesn't actually tell how much
: freon to add/subtract) but is the next best thing to watching a sight glass for bubbles.
: 
: regards, Mark    (mark@wdc.sps.mot.com)  Tempe, AZ
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Subject: Re: RFD: rec.autos.antique
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd
Date: 14 Sep 92 06:03:27 GMT

In <715917106.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:

> GS> Some months ago, I created alt.autos.antique.  There seems to have been
> GS> ...
> GS> on the creation of rec.autos.antique.

>I vote in favor.

And I.


regards,
-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevette Head Repairs
Date: 15 Sep 92 17:52:06 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <1992Sep13.175023.9586@emr1.emr.ca>
globay@emr1.emr.ca (George Lobay) writes:

>
>The cam on my wife's '86 Chevette is in dire need of replacement.
>Assuming that more or less the same amount of money is involved in
>each case, which avenue would be the easiest:
>
>1 - Get a used replacement head from the auto wrecker and replace
>    the whole head; or
>
>2 - Get a replacement camshaft and replace just it.
>
>I'll do whichever is easier.  Anybody got any practical experience on this?
>I forgot to mention I'd do all this myself - always have.
>
    On the Chevette engine the head bolts go thru the cam carrier and the head
into the block.  In other words, the  Re the cam carrier, you've also removed t
he head bolts (10 of them I believe).  I've always done the job thouroughly and
 reground the valves since I was that far along.  I suppose you could cheat and
 just R & R thwe cam, but be aware of the following;  Inspect the cam followere
s carefully, technically, you should replace them with the cam.  Would you ever
 use used lifters on a new cam??  Use the proper anarobic (sp?) sealer between
the head & cam carrier.  The carrier is aluminum w/ no bearings.  They are not
ed for wear @ the cam journals (poor maintenance/ hi miles engines).  Mic the I
D.s to make sure.  Average timing belt life is approx 60k, you may as well rep
lace it while you're at it.  Oh yeah, use lots of assembly lube on cam & follow
ers.  Spence.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 15:02:56 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <1992Sep9.173828@krusher.UCSD.Edu>, dlou@KRUSHER.UCSD.EDU|>  writes

stuff deleted...
 
|> 
|> I think the point to be made is that it what you start with is very
|> important.  A big block pickup will take to modification much better
|> than say a Honda Civic.  The former because it was built for heavy
|> duty applications and probably has lots of room in its performance
|> envelope while the latter is probably already pushed to the limit and
|> would require beefing up of many major components as well as carving
|> out space for new peices.
|> 
|> -- 
|> Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
|> dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
|> [backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
|> dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.

Ok, how about adding a turbo or supercharger to small block, HO engines.  These
include the GM 4.6L (ala GMC cyclone), 5.0L HO V8s, 5.7L HO V8s.  Are these
engines included in the easier to modify catagory  i.e. able to take
modification better ?

How about buying a smaller GMC pickup w/4.6L V6 and adding a turbo (poor man's
cyclone)?  Just a thought...

-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender)
Subject: Re: Valve covers & Mobil 1
Organization: Evans & Sutherland
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 15:03:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.215049.9473@gtephx.UUCP>, rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski) writes:
|> Just wanted to post some info about what I found changing the valve
|> cover gasket this weekend (I only did one so far).  Don't read anything
|> more into this than what I write!  Questions always excepted.
|> 
|> <text deleted with references to Mobil-1>
|> 
|> Overall, the engine was clean, absolutely no sludge.  I'll test some
|> solvents on this varnish like coating.
|> 
|> But a clean engine is not the only requirement for an oil.  I did no
|> measurements of engine wear.  I also just went to a 6 month oil change
|> interval, having changed the oil last month.
|> -- 

I recently had a similar experience.  A few weeks ago, I changed a
leaky oil-pan gasket on my Oldsmobile (3.0l V6 with 118,000 miles).
I have been using Mobil-1 in this engine ever since about 30,000 miles.
What I expected to see was the gray silly-putty like sludge in the deep
recesses of the oil pan, but to my surprise there was absolutely no
film or sludge present... just a faint carmel-colored varnish.
Moreover, inspection of the bottom-end revealed no measurable wear.

I do not know if this is a testimony of Mobil-1 oil, the effectiveness
of the oil-pump/filter, or this engine's longevity; but the combination
appears to leave good results.
-- 
Steve Bender
Evans & Sutherland
(801) 582-5847
Salt Lake City, UT 84108

sbender@dsd.es.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: donald@sq.sq.com (Donald Teed)
Subject: Re: Toyota Oil Filters Vs. The Others
Organization: SoftQuad Inc., Toronto, Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 15:48:52 GMT

>In article <PFZuqB4w165w@toz.buffalo.ny.us> augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger) writes:
>>     Toyata tells me that only genuine Toyata Oil filters have a 
>>mechanism inside them that preventsall the oil from draining into the oil 
>>pan. This they claim, helps reduce engine wear on start-ups. I was 

I have a Mazda B2200 pickup and I have been told the same thing about
the Mazda oil filters.  A couple of times I have had my oil changed
in a quick lube type of shop, and they installed a 'Fram' or whatever
equivalent.  I do notice a longer delay before my oil warning
light goes out when starting, when the non-mechanical oil filter
is in place.  As these people marketing the 'Dynalube' and other products
claim that so much of the engine wear occurs during this critical
point of start up, perhaps this type of oil filter is a good idea.
The speed of my dashboard light going out has convinced me that
there is a difference, and the cost (for me) is not much different.

--Donald Teed
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Date: 10 Sep 92 08:55:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: mr.1992Sep10.085532.25158
Distribution: rec.autos, rec.autos.tech, rec.autos.sport
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Michael George Buening (mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu) wrote:
: 
: I have always been under the impression that a supercharger worked
: over a wider rpm range as opposed to the turbocharger that only
: gives boost at higher rpm's.  I too would like more info on these
: systems so I'll keep an I out for this thread.
: 
: 		--Michael Buening
: 		internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
: 

It depends on how the engineers want the turbo to behave.  Some turbos
are set up to give a real peak-y response, and some are set up for a nice,
broad torque band.  SAAB were the first to put a practical turbo in 
production cars (1977), before this they were used for only the high-end
boost you mention.

A turbo has lag when you stomp on the trottle, but this is a minor inconvenience.  
The biggest benefit of a turbo over a supercharger is that the turbo only 
wastes fuel when turbo-stomping, where the supercharger gives uniformly
crappy mileage.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 07:40:30 GMT

Scott Fisher (scott@psy.uwa.oz.au) wrote:
: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
: 
: 
: >-> Joy is a Jaguar XJ-6 with a flat battery,
: 
: > What shape *should* it be?
: 
: For the lack of a smiley...is it possible that the US uses a different
: term for a battery that has no energy left inside it?...Ahhh...how about
: "dead" battery? :-)
: 
: For those of you who are interested in the differences between UK/OZ
: terms and US ones (relevant to cars) get a Haynes manual and look in the
: back, they have a glossary of common terms.  
: 
Yeesh.  I'd like to apologize for the blatant clue-lessness of my fellow
USA'n.  How embarassing.

: Joy is a Jaguar XJ-6 with a dead battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiggggggggggggh!  You changed it!  Leave it the way
it was, it has a certai charm to it.  I can sympathize, BTW.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Sriram Sankar)
Subject: Saab bulletin board
Originator: sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:27:09 GMT


I've heard mention of a Saab bulletin board.  How does one get
on it?

Thanks,

Sriram.
sankar@cs.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: c.CRepin@ic.ac.UK (Olivier M.J. Crepin-Leblond, Olivier M.J. Crepin-Leblond)
Subject: Wax used in car thermostats (ones used in radiators)
Organization: The Ohio State University Department of Computer and Information Science
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 15:01:44 GMT

Could someone out there tell me if the wax used in car thermostats
(the types used with cars hacing radiators) is TOXIC when heated,
or burned.

Please answer at my email address, on the signature line.
Cheers,

O.


-- 
Olivier M.J. Crepin-Leblond, Digital Comms. Section, Elec. Eng. Department
 Imperial College of Science, Technology and Medicine, London SW7 2BT, UK
      Internet/Bitnet: <ocl@cc.ic.ac.uk> - Janet: <ocl@uk.ac.ic.cc>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 4 Sep 92 12:59:30 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <collin.715546285@angelo> collin@angelo.amd.com (Collin K. Ong) writes:
>little_re@lrc.edu writes:
>
>>    Allright, so what is the best way to deter a thief??  I've considered
>

Ok, here are my simpleminded thoughts. 
A thief can do two things: 
- Steal stuff out of your car or from your car
  on the spot (usually restricted to smaller stuff like stereo
  systems, luggage, rims, etc) or 
- Steal the entire car.

"Facts":
- If they want to steal your car or what's in it, they will
- They are *usually* in a big rush 
- They want to be as unnoticed as possible

Given that, what can we do:

- Make it difficult to steal anything.

Here are some of the solution towards this:
- Wheel locks (at ~200-400$ rim-wheel combination not a bad idea)
- Alarm with ignition kill. Not fool proof, but a good deterrent
  Or if you just park in a bad area 1-2 yearly => just
  take out the FI fuse or relay. Unless they tow the car or
  have that part, the car will NOT move.
  Make it clear that there is an alarm, but not which (blinking
  light, though that has lost some effectiveness as well)
- Hide stuff (radio, luggage, though pull out radios are usually
  left in the car ==> not very effective anymore).
- Get a "coded" radio. May lose some of its effectiveness as well
  as people figure out how to override that.
- Car Cover with lock (said to be surprisingly effective)
  Thief can't "glance in" and be inconspicuous ==> bulky cover
  is a bitch to take off, potentially setting of the alarm.
- LoJack vehicle recovery or equivalent.
- The club? Minor deterrent. May help a little.
- Garage your 10k$? 20k$? More$? car at home, instead of the ~1k$ junk 
  in the garage you should have thrown out years ago.
- Park intelligently: visible, turn the wheels so they can't tow it
  easily w/o undoing the lock, use the parking brake & leave it
  in gear/Park, etc.

Jan
-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744)
Subject: Re: 1988 Toyota PU 4 cylinder EFI oil leak
Organization:  University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center
Date: 13 SEP 92 17:00:30    

In article <1992Sep11.233339.12276@seanews.akita.com>, finneyk@seanews.akita.com (Ken Finney) writes...

> 
>My wife's 1988 Toyota PU with the 4 cylinder EFI engine appears to
>be leaking oil from the from of the block (definitely not the valve
>cover or the oil pan).  What are the possibilities (camshaft thrust
>bearing cover plate, an alternator or PS pump mounting bracket bolt
>that goes into an oil passage, etc), and is one of these more
>likely than another?

I am having the same problem with my 1986 4Runner!  I found out that in 
90% of the cases it is the crankshaft seal (yes1), where a rubber lip 
actually can wear a grove into the metal. The mechanic I bought my 
4Runner from told me that there is a kit available to fix this problem 
without having to replace the crankshaft.  The John Muir Idiot Book 
("How to keep your Toyota Pickup Alive" - don't have it? get it!) talks 
about this problem and describes the procedure to replace the seal.  
Happy Toy-fixin...

Peter

_______________________________________________________________________
Peter Burke                           | PBURKE@MACC.WISC.EDU 
Microcomputer Information Center      | PBURKE@Wiscmacc.BitNet
Madison Academic Computing Center     |
1210 W. Dayton St., Madison, WI 53706 | "The best way to accellerate a 
608-263-7744                          |  Macintosh Plus is at 9.8m/s^2"
______________________________________|________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,misc.consumers
From: lenny@icus.ICUS.COM (Lenny Tropiano)
Subject: Rain-X leaving cruddy film on windows?
Followup-To: poster
Organization: ICUS Software Systems, Austin, Texas
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 22:02:09 GMT

I just applied some Rain-X to my windows, and it seems after a day or
two a dry-film of some sort appeared on the windows, side windows and
the sunroof.  Has anyone else had this experience?  

-L.

-- 
| Lenny Tropiano           ICUS Software Systems        lenny@icus.ICUS.COM |
|               ...!{ames,cs.utexas.edu,pacbell}!icus!lenny                 |
+---------------- 14300 Tandem Blvd #222, Austin, TX 78728 -----------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith)
Subject: Re: RFD: rec.autos.antique
Organization: The John P. Robarts Research Institute, London, Ontario
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 03:00:51 GMT

In article <715917106.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>
> GS> Some months ago, I created alt.autos.antique.  There seems to have been
> GS> sufficient traffic in that newsgroup to justify a discussion and vote
> GS> on the creation of rec.autos.antique.
>
>I vote in favor.
I also vote for the new group.
Does anyone have any idea as to how much of a potential increase in
net.audience comes with moving a group from (in this case) alt to rec?
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: supercharged vehicle
Date: 14 Sep 92 18:48:03 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <n097bt@ofa123.fidonet.org> Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org writes:
>seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu  
>   (Sean Reifschneider) sez:
>
> > Since a Turbo runs off of the  exhaust, it's esentially running off of
> > waste energy.  It costs nothing, but takes a while for it to come
>
>   I've seen a lot of people here say that turbos are using 'free
>energy'. Where is the turbo getting this 'free energy'? Turbos use 
>about the same amount of energy as a supercharger (depending on the 

Okok!  If I see this point brought up once more, I think I'm going to barf.
I put 'ESENTIALLY' in there because I was thinking of the backpressure,
but didn't feel I should mention it in such a brief overview.  Ok?  :)
>
> > An engine driven supercharger is driven by the engine, hence
> > it's always online.  
>
>A turbo is driven by the engine and is always on line.

Sorry.  Turbos aren't 'online' until there's enough pressure from the
exhaust gasses to get them spinning up at 100KRPM or so.  That's why
there's turbolag.

> > There is no supercharger lag like there is turbo lag.
> > But it's always drawing power from the engine, and so it 
> > uses up more gas.  
>
> It tends to use up more gas because it is insensitive to engine 
>loading. Turbos use up more gas than normally-aspirated engines also.

Ah.  Thank you for re-stating what I had just said.  :)

>compressor would 'kick' back in and refill the tank. This gave about 
>15 seconds of boost to the engine with about 10kg extra weight added 
>to the car . 

Most people didn't like the idea of having a tank filled with high
pressure air around when they got into an accident, and I don't blame
them.  Neat concept, though...  :)

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 14:50:38 GMT

dlou@WORF.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou) writes:
>LoJack sounds interesting if you live in Boston or LA (I think LA
>was the second city to use it).

LoJack is done on a statewide basis.  There are about half a dozen
states that are LoJack-recovery-equipped (I can get the list, accurate
as of last December, if anyone is interested).  In the northeast US
Massachusetts is the only state where LoJack recovery is possible.
(It also is the state that most needs it.)

>You buy a system that they install and won't tell you where it is.
>When you car is stolen, you call LoJack, they enable the transmitter
>they mounted in your car and the police find it using a direction
>finder.

You actually call the state police and sign a form.  LoJack isn't
involved in recovery at all (I learned this after some six months of
owning the system -- it's not widely mentioned in their documentation
although the wallet card is quite explicit about it).

>I think the record for recover is 20 minutes;  must have been one
>really surprised theif!

It's less than that.  Average recovery time is less than an hour and
very few LoJack-equipped cars are not recovered.  I suspect that the
recovery time figures neglect the time required to get the police to
show up and for you to fill out and sign the form.

The only real problem with LoJack is it requires you to notice that
your car is gone.  If it is stolen from work at 10am and you come out
at 5pm and notice it's gone, the thief has a seven-hour head start on
you.  Surprisingly this doesn't seem to make a big difference in the
real world.

>I've heard other companies selling similar stuff.  I think you can buy
>a system (Audiovox?) that consists of a GPS (Global Positioning Satellite)
>receiver hooked up to a voice synthesizer hooked up to your cellular phone.
>Call your car and ask it where it is!

I'm not sure of the name of this system either, but it's far superior
to the LoJack system.  It's also two to three times as expensive
(circa $1,500).  If the alarm is not disarmed before starting the car
you are asked to enter the disarm code.  If you don't do that in some
amount of time the alarm calls the alarm company and the alarm company
calls back and asks you to identify yourself.  If you do not the alarm
company uses the GPS positioning stuff to determine where your car is
(down to less than a city block) and notifies the police.  The car can
also be disabled remotely to aid in apprehending the thief.  I'm told
that in test runs the system was amazingly effective.

This particular system sounds wonderful but I have some problems with
it.  First, disconnecting the car phone's antenna disables most of the
system (it can't communicate with the base).  This is possible with
just a pair of wire-cutters even before entering the car.  Second, it
costs about a tenth of the average new car sale price.  If you have a
'Benz it's probably worth it, but it's overkill for most of us.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: esprit@netcom.com (Alan F. Perry)
Subject: Wanted: Books about engines
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 92 17:59:45 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 


OK, does anyone know of any good books that explain how engines work and
how to maximize performance and all that stuff.  I am trying to understand
things like what makes one sets of cams better than another, the differences
between having displacement that more bore than stroke and visa versa, porting
a head and all sorts of other things.

Thanks.

alan
From: danapple@vicor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:17:43 GMT


> seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:
> In article <1992Sep8.161221.28786@athena.cs.uga.edu> dug@athena.cs.uga.edu (D
> ouglas Brown) writes:

> Since a Turbo runs off of the exhaust, it's esentially running off of waste
> energy.

Not entirely true.  That pressure is created by the pistons pushing
the exhaust gasses out of the cylinders.  So having more backpressure
is going to cause more resistance to the motion of the pistons on the
exhaust stroke.

Unless, of course, the turbo runs off the *heat* of the exhaust.  Does
it?

> I always
> thought they should use a clutch on it so that when you don't want it on,
> it isn't.  Otjust have the clutch engage when the throttle is open a
> cartain percent...

> Would an electronic clutch work for this?

Max, as in Mad Max, had a clutch on his supercharger.  The first
generation MR2 used a magnet clutch to allow the drive to choose
whether the supercharger was in use or not.  I *assume* this magnet
clutch was just a heavier duty version of an A/C compressor clutch.

(Yes, fiction and fact flow together in mind to form a continuum of
experiences.)

> Sean

Daniel I. Applebaum  |  danapple@vicor.com  |  1986 Celica Supra "NVR DNF"
    "When the car is airborne nothing works, the brakes don't work,
     steering doesn't work, the gas pedal doesn't work, nothing works !!"
                            --- Gerry Brinkman "Principles of Rallying" #2
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech