HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wrscott@ee.gatech.edu (Waymond Scott)
Subject: Fuel Pump Problems
Organization: School of Electrical Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 20:08:27 GMT

  I have an ASP 108 with a Tatone Pits muffler on an Ultimate 
biplane. The engine runs very lean because muffler does not produce enough 
back pressure. I can make the engine run correctly by severly restricting 
the outputs of the muffler, but this significantly reduces the power output 
of the engine. I have checked the fuel passages in the carburetor and they 
are clean.  

  In order to solve my fuel pressure problem without losing power, I 
installed a Perry Micro Oscillating pump. The pump does not seem to help at 
all and the adjustment on the pump does not seem to have any affect. To 
check the operation of the pump, I connected it to a second fuel 
tank with the pump on the running moter. It pumped a very small amount of 
fuel. The pump is installed exactly as per the instructions. It is mounted
using the supplied bracket directly on the crankcase, the moter is 
soft mounted, and the fuel tank was pressurized using muffler pressure. 
Does anyone know what is wrong? Does the ASP carburetor require more 
pressure than the pump can deliver? Is the pump defective? How can I tell 
if the pump is defective? 
                                            Waymond Scott
From: WOLPERT@MAINE.MAINE.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Piper Cub model
Date: 20 Aug 92 16:40:24 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System

Greetings.
I am about to undertake scratch-building a 1/5 scale Piper Cub as a
winter project, but before I do, does anyone know where I can obtain
an appropriately sized molded cowl for it?

I heard that Top-Flite used to make a 1/5 scale Cub.  Anyone got a
line on where to look for and old kit?

Finally, I still have not resolved whether or not to build the full
or clipped wing version, but am lening toward the clipped wing Cub
because I expect it'll be a lot more fun to fly.  The plane will be
powered by a Saito 90 twin, and I am a relatively inexperienced
flyer-only soloed a few weeks ago, but an experienced builder.  BTW,
I plan to build from a set of scaled-down Sig 1/4 scale Cub plans.

Thanks for any and all replies.

Seth Wolpert
Eastern Maine R/C Gulls.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: st1ec@rosie.uh.edu (Tse, Oliver)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Scale Ship Modelers: Foreign Magazines
Keywords: magazine,ship, R/C
Date: 12 Aug 92 16:50:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: rosie.12AUG199211503302
Organization: University of Houston
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Due to the lack of magazines for the R/C scale ship modeler here in the U.S.,
I am in need of overseas publishers.  I prefer the text to be in english.  If
there are any of you in Britain, Australia, or any english speaking land who
know of this information please respond.  Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your reply.

Oliver
st1ec@rosie.uh.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Quickie 500 Needs to be REFORMED!!
Organization: Indiana University
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 15:16:00 GMT

In article <ericw.713649487@hobbes| ericw@hobbes.amd.com (Eric Wedaa) writes:
|lew@4ccvt2.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew) writes:

||1.
||2.
||3.
||4.

|1-4 are NOT good ideas!

||5. Put fuel shutoffs of some kind on the engines should a wing 
||depart from the fuselage.
|
|This should be easy enough to do.  (And is a good idea anyways...)
|You could just some sort of cable leading from inside the wing
|or some bolted on part of the wing, to the fuel line.  Then, if the 
|wing pops off, either A) it pulls the fuel line from the engine/gas tank,
|or B) (If your fuel line does not give) keeps the wing semi-attached
|to the fueselage.

||6. Install a drag chute in the fuselage should the wing depart
||from the fuselage.


Here are some other restrictions that might work and not obsolete 
anything:

1) Restrict venturi size. This was done with FAI Combat and caused
   a pretty good slowdown. That class was getting too fast for pilots
   to keep up with. Didn't reduce the carnage though...

2) Legislate a competition prop. Hopefully something large enough 
   to slow things down. The Nelson can't produce power at lower 
   rpm's so they'd have to modify it (eg. lower the exhaust timing)
   with the end result being lower speeds overall.

3) Reduce the amount of nitro allowed in the management-supplied 
   fuel. 

4) Use a metered volume of fuel. Competitors will have the option 
   of running wide open and running out of fuel (resulting in a Zero 
   score) or throttling back and not running out of fuel. Easy to do 
   with a syringe (the officials suck tanks dry before they refill 
   it to avoid people putting pure nitro in the tank before taking 
   it to the filling station). 

They could also just ban the Nelson or have a $150 price cap. The 
problem is that the other engines also have pretty high list prices.





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Subject: Re: Foam Cores
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 19:46:31 GMT

In article <BtAEB2.7v5@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> 
ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
> In article <1992Aug19.181318.29546@linus.mitre.org> mmcevill@mitre.org 
(Michael A. McEvilley) writes:
> >In article <1992Aug18.214800.1782@iex.uucp> djones@iex.iex.com writes:
> 
> >> 3) Using leading and trailing edge 1/16" balsa sheeting with cap 
> >>    strips and then covering with Monokote.
> 
> >Will save some weight, some guys actually cut out the foam between the 
cap 
> >strips resulting in a 'built-up' looking foam wing. Too much cutting 
will sacrifice strength and will require reinforcement of the wing along 
the area where the wing spar would go.  
> 
> Hmmmm...
> 
> How about arranging these cap strips so you have "geodesic 
> ribs"? Once you cut out the foam in between it'll be far 
> stiffer than if you use simply back-to-front capstrips.

Geodesic what!?!?!?!  Had to look that one up (and who said RC was 
non-educational)! 
A diagram of what you are implying would still help.

Actually, what I was referring to when I said "Too much cutting..." was 
cutting out foam between the cap strips within the first 3rd of the wing 
(from the root).  This is where the stresses during high-G maneuvers is 
maximum, and I've seen one guy rip his wings off on two different planes 
because he went to the extreme cutting out foam (trying to save every last 
1/4 ounce of weight).  He finally learned his lesson and now only cuts out 
the foam on the outboard half of the wing.


Michael
From: cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: The end is Ni - USA as well
Date: 14 Aug 92 12:13:01 GMT
Organization: Acorn Computers Ltd, Cambridge, England


I hate to be a doom merchant but I read another
report about the end of the Ni-cad.

This said that by the end of 92 they would be
banned in 10 US states!

I don't think this can be right but there's no smoke
without fire - where did the "10" come from.


 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|            _          | Email: cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters)       |
|    _      \ \         |                                                   |
|   | \______\_\_____   |---------------------------------------------------|
|   |-________--_____\  |                                                   |
|            / /        | Do it by remote control !                         |
|           /_/         |                                                   |
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: tjreynol@zephyr.cair.du.edu (The Jumpin Dude)
Subject: first plane
Organization: University of Denver
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 03:37:15 GMT

well i bought some stuff today, thought i'd tell you about it, and ask
some questions. i've visited several shops around town, and talked to 
a few people, and after consistent recommendations, bought a Royal-Air
40T; i've been working on it for quite a few hours, and i have a couple
impressions - it seems reasonably well made, altho the attention to detail
isn't super, but i guess it's good enough, i can take care of the things 
that seems to me as if they might benfit from bit of attention. one thing
that i'm not sure what to do with - the manual says i might need to enlarge
the holes on the bottom of the wing where the aileron torque rods pass thru,
now one of the rods moves very freely, butone resists a bitand i'm not sure
if it will pose any problem, or what i can really do about it anyway.
it does go thru an adequate range of motion, i just don't know if the servo 
would beunduly strained... any ideas appreciated. and of course i'll chat
with the fellow at CO. Discount Hobbies...

i'm just slightly annoyed that i have to go back for rubber bands to mount
the wing *grumble* i thought i had everyting..

so i also got a Futaba Attack-4 with 3 Futaba and one Royal servo..
and a Super Tigre S 40 K Ring W/M which was 3 steps above the engine 
they advertise in their Kit Package Deal; also epoxy, sandpaper, knife, 
tape, alcohol, waxtex, etc..

well i can't wait to get flying :-) maybe next weekend i'll get out for 
my first lesson; the guy i bought it from instructs, and seems to have
a pretty complete course, but won't charge for more than 12 2-hour 
sessions - if i require more instruction it's free :-)at $5/hr does that
sound like a good deal? he has a complete syllabus that includes some
aerodynamics theory, and whatever else i'll find out. anyway he seemed 
like a good guy.

back to work, 
tim
tjreynol@du.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: re: Looking for KAOS Replacement
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 20:59:40 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.200235.357@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> mangieri@asd2.jsc.nasa.gov writes:
|I just recently totalled a .61 size super KAOS (I won't go into the details).

Please do.  We all learn from mistakes.  I promise to be nice. :-)

| Anyway, I am looking for a reasonable replacement. 

My vote would be for the GP Ultra Sport.  It comes in 40 and 60 sizes,
and is a direct descendant of the Super Kaos (one of my all time faves).

|Here are some of
| the requirements:
|
|1) Aerobatic

Check.  (*Check!*)

|2) Low Wing

Check.

|3) Prefer .40 size

40 or 60.  Check.

|4) Easy/Quick to build (Hobbico AWARFS look good)

Not an ARF, but still a good kit and reasonably quick building.  (keyed
structure, etc.)

|5) NO Foam wings

Check.

|6) Tricycle Landing Gear

Optional on the Ultra Sport.  Check.

|7) Less than $150

The 40 is ~$75.  Check.


	Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: billg@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Bill Gingras)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 20:52:05 GMT
Subject: AM vs FM AGAIN? - Have Mercy
Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc


I know there have been lots of discussions lately on the net concerning
AM versus FM, but the topic has been of no interest to me until now so I
haven't been reading up on it.  Please bear with me when reading this
question for the umpteenth time.

Basically, I've had an Airtronics FM radio system on backorder for about
a month now.  I called Airtronics yesterday and they informed me that
some parts are on backorder and they should get them in another 1 to 1.5
months.  I figure that by the time they get the parts, build the radios,
ship them to Tower, and Tower ships it to me, it will be at least 2 more
months.

Well, Futaba also sells a micro system, but it is AM.  So now the big
question.....

IS AM SO MUCH WORSE THAN FM THAT I SHOULD WAIT TWO AT LEAST TWO MONTHS
FOR THE FM SYSTEM?

I know AM has more of a problem with noise, etc, but has anybody read,
heard, seen anything that would convince me to wait for FM or go with
the AM?

Thanks in advance!!

- Bill G
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Tuned Pipe Questions
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:16:53 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation

In article <Bt8q1t.EpJ@world.std.com> jlw@world.std.com (James L Walker) 
writes:
> I run my Enya .45 CX with a 10x7.  As I understand it this slows the 
engine
> down and reduces prop noise.  At my field we are pretty paranoid about 
> sound, so I would always raise the pitch before the length of the prop.

Either increasing prop diameter while keeping prop pitch constant, or, increasing prop pitch while keeping prop diameter constant increases the loading on the engine and will result in less peak RPM, which translates into slower propellar tip speed which is where a lot of the noise comes from.  So it is not necessary to 'always'increase the pitch before the length to get 
lower peak RPM.

BTW, if you are really interested in minimum noise, try soft-mounting your 
engine as well.  It works!    

BTW-FYI, once an optimum peak RPM/pipe length has been established, as peak RPM increases, pipe length must decrease and vice versa.  When measuring pipe length, measure along the header center-line, not a Point A - Point B straight  line type measurement.

Michael
From: djones@iex.iex.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Foam Cores
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:48:00 GMT
Organization: IEX Corporation Inc.

I am expecting my foam cores from Wing Mfg to show up most any moment. These
cores will form the wing for my Jensen Stick. Having never worked with foam
before I am curious what folks use to cover them. I have considered the
following options:

1) Completely sheeting them with 1/16" balsa and the using Monokote.
2) Completely sheeting them with 1/16" balsa and then glassing and
   painting.
3) Using leading and trailing edge 1/16" balsa sheeting with cap 
   strips and then covering with Monokote.
4) Glassing over the raw cores and then painting.

If I should try glassing (something I have never done before...at least not
like this) what weight of glass? And do I use epoxy thinned or polyester resin?

What are the techniques that have been tried. Please post or send
email and I will post a summary.

Thanks in advance,

Doug
-------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)612-2600 ext: 325
                                   |    djones@iex.iex.com
                                   |    uunet!iex!djones
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Puma engines?
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:27:50 GMT

I was looking in (ack!) RCM at the Target store last night and 
noticed this ad from an outfit called Hobby Club. They carry a 
line of props and engines called (I believe) Puma. 

Anyone know anything about these? They offer the usual .40 and 
.60 R/Cs and the prices are very reasonable. But what really 
perked my interest is that they have a 2.5cc (.15) CL Combat/
FF engine for $50. They also have a 2.5cc diesel for $30.00. 
My guess is that this is a european (Hungarian? Spanish?) out-
fit since the Japanese and Taiwanese wouldn't make competition
.15s....

If I were still flying FAI Combat I'd buy one...





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: otmar@hpcvia.CV.HP.COM (Otmar_Borchard)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 12:53:18 PDT
Subject: Abitar engine questions
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

Hi there!

I was wondering if anyone out there is flying with an Abitar Predator
engine? Well ... I'm not so worried about that, but I would like to know
what you think of the engine. Particularly things like how reliably it
runs, how easy it is to start, ease of maintenance, any comments on
customer service provided by the manufacturer, weight and performance of
your plane.

I'm ready for a new plane. I want to try a four stroke engine and a 
large plane. The Ace Big Bingo with an Abitar 1.20 looks like fun.

Thanks for any comments.

--- Otmar Borchard
    Hewlett-Packard
    Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: Todd O'Connor <todd_oconnor@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Help on Shipping
X-Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 11:38:49 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 18:38:06 GMT


You'll definitely want to check with UPS ahead of time.  They have restrictions on
package weight and size.  I just shipped something today and the weight limit is 87
lbs. and size is determined by a measuring chain they wrap around the box.  If it's
too large I don't think they'll take it.

tc
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: tjreynol@zephyr.cair.du.edu (The Jumpin Dude)
Subject: Re: Instructing (was Re: first plane)
Organization: University of Denver
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 04:31:08 GMT

thanks a bunch to the numerous folks who filled me in :-)
i didn't think twice about paying for instruction, it's nice
to find a group of generous people. i'm a skydiver and i've 
been expected to shell out wads and wads of cash for coaching;
i've been stingy with my money in my sport, and have had to learn
the fine points by myself.

i wish more jumpers were willing to instruct. :-/

anyway, i'll post more as i get flying :-)

tim
From: lew@4ccvw25.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Puma engines?
Date: 17 Aug 92 22:00:48 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw25.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <BsxHME.LoA@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
> <Target Stores, RCM, etc deleted>
>Anyone know anything about these? They offer the usual .40 and 
>.60 R/Cs and the prices are very reasonable. But what really 
>perked my interest is that they have a 2.5cc (.15) CL Combat/
>FF engine for $50. They also have a 2.5cc diesel for $30.00. 
>My guess is that this is a european (Hungarian? Spanish?) out-
>fit since the Japanese and Taiwanese wouldn't make competition
>.15s....
>
>If I were still flying FAI Combat I'd buy one...
>

Wow, if the motors were that cheap, I'll start flying FAI Combat! 8-)


Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com






Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: Todd O'Connor <todd_oconnor@taligent.com>
Subject: 4WD Kyosho Optima Mid For Sale
X-Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 10:10:58 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3
Distribution: ba
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 17:10:15 GMT


The following is a brief description of the package:

          - 4WD Kyosho Optima Mid w/full ball bearings (original box and
instructions too)
          - Fiberglass shock towers and chassis (original aluminum chassis too)
          - Futaba Magnum Junior Radio w/ESC (also have original box)
                     Channels 62, 70, and 84 included
          - Kyosho Lambda Quick Charger, delta peak auto cut-off
          - Pro-Tech AC/DC charger
          - Four (4) 7 cell 1700 SCE packs
          - One (1) 6 cell 1700 SCE pack
          - Three (3) 6 cell 1200 SC packs
          - Lots of tires and rims (some new never used)
          - Four (4) motors
                     Race Prep Modified Eliminator 17 turn
                     Race Prep Modified Eliminator 20 turn
                     Trinity Stock
                     Kyosho OEM motor
          - Extra Motor Brushes
          - Pinions (15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22)
          - Three (3) bodies (2 painted, 1 not)
          - Other misc. parts/nuts/bolts/etc... too numerous to mention

I have raced this car and have TQ'd and won several modified 4WD class races as
well as attended the East Coast Regionals.  The racing body has it's share of
scratches and dings but the other "concourse" body is fresh, never raced.  I have
all kinds of extra parts that I stocked up on just-in-case and have the OEM open
front diff as well as the Kyosho One-Way front diff.  This is a belt driven car and
has been very reliable for me.

Not knowing what the market will bear for a used RC car I'd like to ask for $350
but no resonable offer will be refused.  Contact me via e-mail at
todd_o'connor@taligent.com or at 408-735-1549 (msg).


Thanks...
Todd
todd_o'connor@taligent.com
From: m14494@mwvm.mitre.org (Mike White)
Subject: Re: Some Glider Questions...
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 17:22:35 GMT

Zsolt Frei writes:
> I just decided to get into this hobby starting with some simple gliders.

Consider an electric glider.  I have the Goldberg Electra, and it's great. 
The cost of the kit with motor is less than $50 mailorder, or about $55 
over the counter, and it's a great kit; very easy to build.  Yes, you do 
have to buy a battery and charger (about $50), but with
an ordinary glider, you have to buy a hi-start (also about $50).  The 
electrics
are loads of fun; when there's no lift, you can throttle back to about half
power and just fly around like a power plane. Which brings us to the 
subject
of radios.

If you go into electrics, I recommend the Futaba 4NBLE.  This is a 4
channel AM setup, with an electronic speed controller built right
into the receiver.  The set comes with 2 micro servos that are
ideal for glider use, and it all works like a charm.  This radio costs
a bit more (around $170) but it's well worth it if you get interested
in electrics. You can use an ordinary radio (like the Attack 4), but
at best you'll just have on-off control of the motor with no speed
control.  Another advantage of the 4NBLE is it includes a BEC; the
receiver runs off the motor battery, and a built-in cutoff turns 
off the motor when the batteries are low, but still have enough
juice to run the receiver and servos while you glide in for a landing.
Good luck and happy flying.

************************
* These are my opinions only.*
************************
From: borodin@hope.llumc.edu (Sergi Borodin)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: ESCs - brake transistors - why?
Date: 19 Aug 92 21:37:12 GMT
Organization: LLUMC Radiation Research Lab


 When I was trying to understand (I want to built one) the principles
 of ESCs, I realized that they don't need special (dedicated for this
 purpose) brake transistors. Since the motor is driven by a full bridge
 MOSFET amplifier, this is the matter of control logic how to make the
 motor to stop. Imagine the four switches (A,B,C,D) and the motor (M):
 
    A   B
      M
    C   D
 To turn the motor in one direction we close (let's say) A & D, in 
 opposite - B & C.  
 Obviously, in order to brake we would need to close either A & B or
 C & D. Since the law of the conservation of energy still applies, 
 the current supplied by the motor cannot exceed the current had been
 applied to it by the drivers, e.g A&D or B&C. So transistors cannot
 be damaged (besides the pulse current is much higher). The whole 
 circuit will be much cheaper also.
  I understand that the reason of using brake transistors might be
 outside of technical ideas, and might be dictated by the desirable
 performance. For instance, it could be bad (I don't know) to apply
 full brakes and a small resistor (to acheive lighter braking) might
 be desirable.
 
  So, experts, WHY ???
  
  I was able to locate (DGK) 50 Amps n-channel MOSFETS ($2.50 apiece),
  but I couldn't find p-channels with the same current ratings -
  anybody has the idea?
  
  S.B.