HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: SmartLevel (need info)
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: world,local
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 23:05:01 GMT

David Doshay writes
> I have one and it does what it is supposed to do, if you reset it
> when needed. Resetting can be done 2 ways, fast (which is) or
> really fancy (which takes less than 5 minutes).
> 
> There are 2 versions, one with a fixed 2 foot length and another
> that can be put into bars up to --long-
> 
> The one that goes into many bars cost more and has 0.1 deg accuracy
> the other 0.2 deg.

Some other comments:

The 0.1 and 0.2 degree specs refer to the readout when away from plumb.
At plumb (vertical or horizontal) I believe both units are better than
0.1 degrees, accuracy-wise.

The rails for the module have a triangular cross-section. This means its
sides aren't parallel, so it's hard to hold it up against a wall with
one hand, for instance, while marking a line with the other. I believe
the fixed unit has more typical parallel sides.

There have been two kinds of rails. Both kinds are primarily aluminum, one
is filled with teak, the other with plastic. Not seeing the teak advertised
much anymore, I believe it's not being made anymore. The plastic is lighter,
and has little tabs that snap out of the slanted sides to make holding the
rail against a wall is easier - at least if the wall isn't just studs.

The removeable module can be used as a torpedo level, but the bottom and top
of the module aren't flat. I've been meaning to build a tiny rail to hold
it for use as a torpedo level. Since you calibrate the unit in the rail, you
can build your own rails without sacrificing accuracy.

If you have a level table you can use it to verify angles you cut on your 
tablesaw/RAS (cut a wedge, place it on the level table, then place the level
on the wedge).

Overall, I'm pleased with it. Having different readings (like angle, pitch,
percent of slope, etc.) directly displayed could be a distinct advantage
at times. Being able to recalibrate it quickly on-site is also nice. I don't
like the triangular rails, and you can't read the thing with polarized
sunglasses on.

Tools on Sale and Tool Crib of the North sell them at good prices.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Monday, 28 Dec 1992 16:07:50 EST
From: <WWARD@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: routers vs plunge routers

Would someone please tell me the difference between a router
and a plunge router? Will a plunge router do things that
a regular router won't? Thanks for your help.
Wally
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Moulders, shapers, routers
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 18:15:52 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%92122214253870@IPFWVM.BITNET> Carty ELlis <CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET> writes:
>What is the actual definition on the differences between moulders, shapers
>and routers?  Curiosity killed the cat is the biggest reason for this question,
>but I am also building a porch (to be screend in - no half-walls or glass)
>and I am trying to see if it is cheaper to make my own tounge and groove
>flooring (14 feet by 18 feet) or get it pre-done?  In chasing this I ran
>into what is difference between the three devices?  I have a handheld router,
>but I also have a Shopsmith 510 that I could get a moulder or shaper for.
>Or even a router chuck for the Drill press.
>

A moulder is a machine very similar to a planer but the knives are
shaped to cut moulding.  Most moulders have the arbor horizontal.  It
is supported at both ends.  Some moulders have multiple arbors so
moulding could be cut in one pass.

A shaper is a machine with a single vertical shaft that is supported
only at the bottom.  Some cutters are designed to cut wood parallel to
the shaft while others cut wood perpendicular to the shaft.  It is a
more flexible machine than a moulder but does not cut moldings as
easily. 

A router is a machine that can be mounted under a table.  When in this
position it can take router bits and roughly approximate a shaper.  As
expected, table-mounted routers are not very easily adjusted, nor do
they do as much as shapers.  They also don't do what they do as well
as a shaper.  Routers are designed as hand-held devices.

Barry


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Rebuilding table saw - advice sought
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 14:07:13 GMT

I'm in the process of rebuiling a 20 year old Craftsman 10-in table saw.  This
saw sat out in the yard without a cover for several years before I rescued it.
I've long since fixed most of the problems with surface rust and all, but since
I moved recently, I decided to get into the guts and get it into tip-top shape.
The first thing I decided to do is replace the arbor bearings.  The threads on
the end of the arbor are pretty badly worn, but I think I'd rather stay away
from a new part there - I've not heard good things about parts made overseas ...

Anyway, I've done the arbor, and got a set of those turned steel pulleys and such,
now I'm pulling varous other parts and working on them, like the rods that adjust
the blade hight and tilt.  All is going well, but I have one big question:

Is it a good idea to remove the trundles and the arbor carriage completely from the
table top?  Will re-aligning this be a major hassle for a basicly inexperienced
bloke like myself, or is it mostly a matter of fine adjustment (which I have done
before)?

I know some of you out there I have rebuilt these things before, so I'm hoping
someone who has actually DONE this can reply.

Thanks,
Walt


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: HELP: Looking for info on exotic hardwoods (mail order woes)
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:22:37 GMT


Yesterday I heard about a place near here whose contact/supplier is
the guy who guided jaques cousteou down the amazon. Lots of different
kinds of exotic SA hardwoods, boards two feet wide, clear and nice
as you could want.

That's what I heard, anyway. I'm going there today, I'll let you know.

-Mike
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Changing belts on a Uni-saw ?
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:42:23 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.164500.3919@mlb.semi.harris.com>, tgillesp@sloth.mlb.semi.harris.com (Tom Gillespie) writes:
|> I purchased a used Rockwell (now Delta) Uni-Saw last year :-).
|> Works great; better than I dreamed.  But I have one problem.
|> Does anyone know the proper procedure of how to change the "V" belts on this
|> saw?  It has three.  They are hard to reach through the motor opening
|> below the motor, and hard to reach throuh the blade opening in the top.
|> 
|> I have no manual (I suppose I could order one from Delta, but I
|> decided to take the cheapo approach first and beg, especially since they
|> charged me $12.00 for a threaded knob last time !)
|> 
|
Tom:
It's a b***h to change the belts.  Delta has sent me several manuals for
used equipment that I have bought at no charge, give them a call.
To change the belts you will (of course) have to loosen the motor and tighten
with the belts slack.  I found getting the used belts off the arbor side
to be the most difficult (probably should have cut them off!) because
the belts had flattened in use and did not have enoght clearance between the
arbor and the saw castings.  The new belts went on with no problem at all.

Steve
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:08:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)  writes:

I wrote:
>
>> Of course, before I TOUCH that curly maple with my scraper, I have sanded
>> it down smooth with at LEAST a 200 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander.
>> Then, I take my scraper and hone a dead flat, straight edge, and touch it
>> with the burnisher with just one or to complete strokes.
>
>Doesn't the scraper edge dull quickly?  I thought that it was quite difficult
>to get all the particles of abrasive grit off the wood after sanding.

   Yeah, it probablly does.  So what?    I just put a new edge on.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 09:35:03 GMT

In article <=5r206a@rpi.edu> ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:

>
>I guess the bottom line is:  I can't see any mechanical reason for the
>pull vs. push argument, but safety-wise they (the manufacturers) like
>you to use the pull method.
>
	The first contact of the saw with the wood in pull-cutting
is DOWNWARD and TOWARD the backboard.  The first contact of the saw
with the wood in push-cutting is UPWARD.

	Pulling the wood up off the table is a no-no; this means
that one should prefer, for the sake of keeping the wood stationary,
the pull-cutting method.  It makes little difference for thin
stock, but for a thick board (compared to the blade's radius)
the effect should be quite noticeable.

	John Whitmore


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 09:14:28 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: How to fill holes for new lockset?

Bondow (auto boddy filler) works well in big voids and large gaps because
it doesn't shrink. It's very strong and very hard (for a filler) and sticks
to wood very well.

                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevej@boi.hp.com (Steve Johnson)
Subject: INCA 10 inch band saw
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 20:54:10 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

I am interested in hearing from owners of the INCA band saw. After hearing the
rave reviews posted here and in several mags, I ordered one as a Christmas 
present. So far I am underwhelmed, but I must say that I have only made a few
trial cuts. Specifically:

The person who took my order by phone did not speak very good english

The saw was dumped in my driveway Christmas eve. I still do not know who
delivered it. (Santa??)

The box was damaged

The manual sucks! This is the most expensive tool I have ordered and the manual
is thinner than any I have purchased.

The "bonus plans for a sturdy mounting stand" turned out to be a bad photocopy
of a plan for a 24" high sttol written in german.

I did not get the fence micro-adjuster or the cool blocks I was supposed to get.

The "balance a nickel on on edge on the table while running" test seems like
a joke. 

Will someone who has this saw please reassure me!!
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Happy New Year
Date: 1 Jan 1993 05:58:46 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Happy new year to all. A special thanks for all the people that make
reading this Newsgroup a real joy throughout the year.
Have a safe, happy, productive year making all that sawdust.

Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: 3 phase question
Date: 23 Dec 92 17:47:51 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: 3 phase


As some may remember, I am (still) in the process of building
a 3-phase converter.   I've finally gotten to the point where 
everything is in a metal box and wired together, but when I 
try kick starting the rotor moter's spindle up to speed and hitting
the (single-phase) power, the rotor locks and just humms.

I know this motor is good because it was tested when I bought it.
COuld I not have enough capacitance in the circuit??  Right now I 
have 24 mfd for a 15 HP rotor.  Should the capacitance be in the
circuit upstream or downstream from the motor, or doesn't it matter?

Thanks for any help.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chambles@whale.st.usm.edu (John William Chambless)
Subject: FTP site
Originator: chambles@whale.st.usm.edu
Organization: University of Southern Mississippi
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 03:41:35 GMT

I had gotten an address for woodworking textfile archives,
but seem to have lost it. Could anyone send me the address
of an ftp site that has rec.woodworking?

thanx.....


-- 
* Billy Chambless   University of Southern Mississippi, USA 
*   chambles@whale.st.usm.edu
*
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cabinet saws... what are they?
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:09:32 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 29874@microsoft.com, ericb@microsoft.com (Eric Brown) writes:
>Michelle Stone writes:
>|What is the main difference between your garden variety 
>|table saw and a cabinet saw?
>
>A cabinet saw is a specific type of table saw with the following
>defining characteristic: the motor hangs more or less below the arbor
>rather than behind it and is thus mostly enlosed by the cabinet/base.
>The cabinet/base is a floor standing unit that is totally enclosed,
>although there is sometimes an opening in the side that exposes the
>fan end of the motor, I presume for cooling.  You can usually get a
>cover for this opening so that the blade, motor, and mechanism is
>completely enclosed.  This facilitates the use of a dust collector
>to remove the generated dust.  In fact, most cabinet saws have a
>4" dust collector duct built into the cabinet near the bottom.
>
>Cabinet saws are usually heavier and more powerful than the
>typical bench style (e.g. contractor's) table saw, with several
>drive belts instead of one.  The castings that support the motor and
>arbor are much heavier as are the arbor and its bearings.
>

I thought the major difference is that cabinet saws support the arbor 
assembly by attaching it to the base of the saw, and the table bolts 
on top.  As opposed to a contractor's saw where the arbor assembly
is attached to and is supported by the table. 

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Robert J. Brown)
Subject: Spending too much time in the shop!!
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: brown@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF
Distribution:  world
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 17:55:09 GMT

  Seasons greetings to everyone who participates in this fine news group!!
Last night I found myself in the shop (nothing unusual there!) wrapping
Christmas gifts on my workbench. After 2 or 3 packages had been completed,
it occured to mee that I wasn't using scissors to cut the wrapping paper!
No, I was doing it with a 24" carpenter's square and a razor knife!!

  The next thing you know, I'll be cutting ribbon on the power miter box!:^)

   ____________________________________________________________
  /\                                                           \____
 /\\\  Robert J. Brown                       Bitnet:BROWN@IUCF  \   \
 \\\\\   Indiana University                     _____________    \   \
  \\\\\____  Cyclotron Facility                 \           /\    \   \
   \\\/   /\    Phone: (812)855-9365             \_________/\\\    \   \
    \/___/\\\_____________________________________\ MERRY  \\\\\____\   \
         \\\/               ____                  /   XMAS  \\\/    /____\
          \/________________\ \/_________________/     &HNY  \/__________/


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU" "Multiple recipients
          of list WOODWORK"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 11:26:04 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: refinishing kitchen cabinets

My Girl friend (Kathy) has just had her Kitchen cabinets
professionally refinished and new doors hung. The job turned out
beautifully. I don't have the full run down yet; but, here's what I've
found out so far:

   The Refinisher used an industrial water based, paste consistency
   stripper and very little sanding. He has offered to recommend a
   consumer equivalent (more on chemicals and brand names in a later
   posting).

   Because the cabinets (ash ply and hard woods) were 20 years old and
   had been covered with a dark stain they would not strip to as light
   a color as the new doors. After striping the Refinisher stained the
   cabinets honey oak  and then stained the new (lighter colored wood)
   doors to match.

   The finish appears to be a polyurethane of some kind and since he
   used an HVLP sprayer to apply it and it dried very quickly I would
   guess it's water based.

   The old cabinets refinished beautifully. I'm looking to redo my own
   kitchen and seeing how well Kathy's turned out and how the pro's
   did hers, has seriously increased my confidence that I can handle this
   project.


                         Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: steveh@psg.com (Steve Hampson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 24 Dec 92 07:19:30 GMT
Organization: Pacific Systems Group, Portland Oregon US
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
: 
: As some may remember, I am (still) in the process of building
: a 3-phase converter.   I've finally gotten to the point where 
: everything is in a metal box and wired together, but when I 
: try kick starting the rotor moter's spindle up to speed and hitting
: the (single-phase) power, the rotor locks and just humms.
: 
: I know this motor is good because it was tested when I bought it.
: COuld I not have enough capacitance in the circuit??  Right now I 
: have 24 mfd for a 15 HP rotor.  Should the capacitance be in the
: circuit upstream or downstream from the motor, or doesn't it matter?
: 
: Thanks for any help.

I used the rule of thumb of 75-100 mfd per hp.  It sounds like you are
using the 15 HP motor as an idler to generate the third leg to your
machine.  You will not need to kick start it if you are using
capacitors to temporarily generate the third leg for the idler, but
you should switch the capacitors out of the circuit when the idler
starts.  Home Shop Machinist magazine had a very nice circuit a few
years ago to do exactly this.  I build this circuit a year ago and
so far it has run my 2 hp bandsaw and 2 hp grinder without problems.

A 15 hp idler will start up to a 10 hp 3 phase motor (again a rule of
thumb).  I hope your circuit is prepared to handle at least 40 amps.
Unless you are planning to run a big lathe or air compressor or many
machines at once, I suspect you could use a much smaller idler motor.

-- 
Steve Hampson                       steveh@m2xenix.psg.com
17624 Schalit Way                   home (503) 636-6966
Lake Oswego, OR  97035              work (503) 222-9571
USA
From: richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Drying wet wood without cracking, HOW?
Date: 30 Dec 92 17:49:28 GMT
Reply-To: richard@TIS.COM
Organization: Trusted Information Systems



	Hi there folks! :)

	I'm sure this is an easy question for y'all...

	I live in the woods, and have a lathe, and have found that I can
find some absolutely beautiful wood just rummaging about my yard. At any
rate, the wood is always wet, having been rotting away under the leaves
with fungus and bugs and such. In addition there are lots of knots, the
more the better. (The type of wood you're told *never* to put on a lathe,
although it's kinda fun when the worms come zinging out while you're turning.)

	At any rate, after having turned the wood wet, (it's soo much softer
and easier. Dogwood turns into a *rock* when it dries.) I stand the work on
the bench to dry for a week or so. But it inevitably forms cracks and splits
which I'd rather not have. So the question is: Is there any quick and easy
way to dry the stuff without having it split? Is there something I can do,
build, buy, cheaply?

	Thanks. Your help is greatly appreciated...


					Richard H. Clark



-----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
 Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
 LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
 It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
 richard@tis.com				those of my company...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Sears bandsaw <<help>>
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 15:41:42 GMT

In article <1992Dec26.054658.23529@ra.msstate.edu>, chambles@whale.st.usm.edu (John William Chambless) writes:
|> I have a Sears 12" bandsaw ( a hand-me-down from my Dad ) that I'm
|> preparing to tune up for general shop use. I hope I can get it
|> working well enough to resaw some 4" oak that I have...
|> 
|> Has anybody had good luck using this saw for heavy resawing?
|> What about the controversial 1/4" bimetal blade?
|> 
|> Advice on bandsaws seems contradictory; everybody has their
|> special blade theory.
|> 
|> Also, I'd like to hear from anyone who has built the Gilliom
|> 18" bandsaw kit, and from users of the Grizzly 18" bandsaw.
|> 
|> -- 
|> * Billy Chambless   University of Southern Mississippi, USA 
|> *   chambles@whale.st.usm.edu
|> *    

Bill, I used the same Sears saw for many years with great success (it
did what I needed!)  The best blade I would for this saw was the
"WOOD SLICER" from Highlands Hardware in Atlanta.  The saw itself
had presented me with some resawing problems until I started using
that blade.

The second part of your question on 18" bandsaws.  I moved from
the Sears to an 18" Grizzly, to this day I do not know where I
made the biggest mistake, buying the Sears or the Grizzly.  The
saw has been awful.  I have replaced the blade guides with Carter
roller guides, that has helped some but in general it still leaves
much to be desired.  I find when using blades 3/4" and larger that
once tensioned properly the blade wants to come off.  After much
realignment and adjustment the only problem I can determine is that
at higher tensions the casting or the wheels flex.  

If I were doing it again I would look for a used Cresent or buy a
new MiniMax.

Just an opinion and experience - Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jeb26@cas.org (Jim Bossenbroek)
Subject: Pressure treated plywood
Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 15:27:36 GMT

I discovered this group a few months ago and have enjoyed it ever since.  I'm 
especially impressed with the congeniality of the group and lack of flames.

It appears that my next project is to provide a basketball hoop and backboard
for #2 daughter.  Is 3/4" pressure treated plywood an appropriate choice for the
backboard?  Should the edges be treated in any special way to accommodate the
weather?  I have in mind that the plywood should be allowed to weather for a 
period of weeks/months before painting.  Correct?  Those with experience please
share your insights.  thanks jb

-- 
...........................................................................
Jim Bossenbroek         jeb26@cas.org         VOICE:  (614) 447-3838 X 2650
Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus OH         FAX:  (614) 447-3713
...........................................................................
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking