HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jronnau@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: HC-11 BPROT programming
Date: 11 Nov 92 08:07:10 CST
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

I am trying to program the EEPROM on a 68HC11E1.  When I received the
chips I found the block protect register (BPROT) to be 0D.  I am using
the EVB to program the devices.  Is there an easy way of programming 
BPROT using the EVB? or do I have to use some bootloader trick?
thanks
Jim Ronnau
JRONNAU@KUHUB.CC.UKANS.EDU
From: curt@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Curt Welch)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Adding a Second Phone Line
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:59:44 GMT
Reply-To: curt@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Curt Welch)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In sci.electronics, kharstin@MtHolyoke.edu (Ken Harstine) writes:
>By the way 2 line panasonic phones assume that the second line is on the
>yellow and black wires, and so will work with existing single line sockets
>for two line operation.

This isn't just a Panasonic feature.  It's one of the many phone
company standard type of jacks (I don't know who makes up these
standards).  Your normal single line phone jack is called an RJ11C.  It
uses a 6 pin modular connector with RING connected to pin 3 and TIP
connected to pin 4.  The wall phone version of the jack is called an
RJ11W.

If you put a second phone line on the black and yellow lines (pins
2 and 5), then the jack is called an RJ14C.  If you put three lines
on the jack, then it's an RJ25C.

Every two-line phone I've seen supports the RJ14 style jack.

Radio Shack sells a bunch of RJ14 stuff.  For example, they have an 
RJ14 to RJ11 addaptor.  It plugs into an RJ14 jack, and provides
two RJ11 jacks (one for each line) and one RJ14 jack (with both
lines on it.)  If you use one of these, then you don't have to install
a second jack for the second line.  And if your home has all 4 wires
running to all the jacks in the house, then you can use this
type of adaptor to access the second line from any jack without
having to install new jacks.

Also, as long as we are talking about wire.  Every home I've seen
built in the last 20 years has a multiple conductor (something
like 12 wire) cable running between all the phone jacks in the
house.  It starts at the point where the phone lines come from
the phone company (either outside or inside the house) and runs
to each outlet in the home in sequence.

Most homes will only have two of these wires used.  To add a second
line, you just pick two of the wires and use these for the second
line.  Connect them to the new incomming line at the terminal provied
by the phone company, and then go to the wall jack, and connect these
two lines to the screew terminals for the black and yellow wires if you
want to use the RJ14 type jack.  The cable will make a loop at each
outlet.  Don't just cut the new wires and connect them.  Just strip
about 1/2" of insulation off the wire and loop it over the screw lug.
If the wire breaks will you are trying to do this - don't worry - just
twist the ends together and then connect them to the terminal.

Radio Shack (and others) also sells a dual-jack wall plate that works
nicely for two lines.

Curt Welch
From: Ted_Eugene_Viens@cup.portal.com
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: RF leakage from TV cable system
Date: Mon,  9 Nov 92 23:50:59 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

>I have some questions about RF leakage from a cable TV source:
>
>1. Why does the cable company check for RF leakage? Is it merely to see who
>is tapping their signal and not paying for it? Is it a health hazard? Or does
>it cause interference to other TV's?
>
>2. How do they detect leakage? I'm suprised there is enough leakage from
>a leaky system to be detectable. How much stray RF actually comes out of
>the leaks?]
>
>3. What is the best way to reduce RF leaks in a home cable system.
>
>Thanks,
>Hugh
>--
>******************************************************************************
*
>** Hugh L. Eaves                      ** Internet: hleaves@ruby.vcu.edu      *
*
>** Medical College of Virginia        ** Bitnet: hleaves@vcuruby             *
*
>** Department of Human Genetics       ** Voice: (804) 371-8754               *
*
>***************** All non-incendiary communication welcome! ******************
*
>
Cable companies are reluctantly engaging in Cummulative Leakage Index work
because the Federal Aviation Agency forced the FCC to make them do this.
A broad range of Cable TV frequencies are in the Aviation radio bands (over
Two Hundred megahertz of bandwith.)  Particularly Cable Channel 14 which runs
over the Aviation Emergency Beacon frequencies.  The FAA and FCC were prepared
at one time to prohibit cable systems from using these frequencies which would
have reduced the channel capacities of many systems by more than half.  After
protest, they wanted to permit the use of these channels but only at a power
level that would more than double the capital cost of the outside cable plant.
After much more protest, the FCC agreed to permit normal use of these channels
at normal power levels with 12.5 kHz carrier ofsets only if the cable companies
undertook extensive and continuous leakage monitoring.  This must be supported
with daily leakage work logs and a complete system leakage measurment every six
months.  A unique pilot signal is placed on the system near the FM bands and th
e
cable service people now carry specialized signal detectors tuned to their
leakage pilot signal to alert them to leaks and give them a rough measure of th
e
strenght of the leaks.  Much of the Cable industry protest is mindless at best.
An Ideal Cable System would have no leaks.  Every leak repaired improves the
quality of the service delivered to the customers and reduces the co-channel
interference from broadcast stations.  The leakage detectors are inadequate to
monitor any customer usage.  To my knowledge, only the BBC has been using
equipment like this to catch viewers who would not pay their TV tax.  And this
Equipment required a fair amount of LO leakage in the TV sets.  Relax, I do not
expect these techniques to be used by your cable company for at least a year or
two....

Happy cable viewing...  Ted...
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Home Automation
Date: 9 Nov 92 12:46:26 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff

In article 03vu@panam.wimsey.bc.ca, Damian_Wallace@panam.wimsey.bc.ca (Damian Wallace) writes:
|>
|>Does any one know of Mail Order Houses that offer home automation
|>equipment.  If so, please let me know.  
|>

The best one that I have seen is from a company called Home Automation
Laboratories, 5500 Highlans Pkwy, Suite 450, Smyrna, GA 30082,
phone: (404)319-6000, FAX (404) 438-2835.

Their catalog is also a pretty decent primer to the home automation
field.


---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Various national colour code of wires(e.g. earth, neutra
From: MATGBB@LURE.LATROBE.EDU.AU (BYRNES,Graham)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 00:46:00 GMT
Organization: La Trobe University
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

In <wai.721265243@phoenix> wai@socs.uts.edu.au writes:

> Anybody out there can tell me about the colour coding various
> country use for labelling a wire as active or neutral or
> ground.
> 
> I know that green is obviously earth, but I have this
> two extra wire; one of them is white, the other is
> black. Does the white go to the active pin and
> black go to the neutral pin?
> 
> Also, the only thing I know about alternate current is
> that the current flows both way alternatively. Then please
> explain to me why there is a voltage (240 V) between active
> and ground, but nothing between neutral and ground?
> 
> Finally , for U.S.A's electrical plug, which pin is always
> designated as active (the smaller one)? Also, I like to
> find out the info for Australian systems.
> 
> 
> Educate me ( the ignorant sponge)
> 
> My email address is wai@socs.uts.edu.au
> 
> --
> 
> 
> Wai-Yat
> 
First, I'd strongly suggest that until you know some more about AC, that
you DONT TOUCH IT. Just remember, if you make an honest learners mistake,
you might kill someone. Sobering thought, eh?

However, standard Australian colours are:
Earth    Green with yellow stipe,     on old cable green.
Neutral  Blue,                        "   "    "   black
Active   Brown                                     red

The neutral SHOULD be at Earth potential, they are connected together
at the meter, however the active and neutral connections are often
interchanged in domestic wiring. In any case the N may be a couple of
volts up from earth due to current flow and Ohms law. It's best not
to rely on Neutral being near ground.

By the way, does anyone know what is a "normal" amount of mains waveform
deformation? In my house there is a generous amount of 2nd and 3rd harmonics,
and the waveform looks like that from an amp in hard clipping, ie flat tops.
Cheers,
Graham B
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: abond@rvgs.vak12ed.edu (Andrew H. Bond)
Subject: Re: Needed: 9 pin RS232 specs
Organization: Virginia's Public Education Network (Roanoke)
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 92 06:01:29 GMT

	Pin connections for IBM PC AT Serial Port

	PIN		Signal

	1		CD	Carrier detect
	2		RD	Recieve data
	3		TD	Transmit data
	4		DTR	Data terminal ready
	5		SG	Signal Ground
	6		DSR	Data set ready
	7		RTS	Request to send
	8		CTS	Clear to send
	9		RI	Ring indicator
-- 
andrew h bond, 	rvgs	
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: c164-et@po.berkeley.edu (Marco Sebastiani)
Subject: TTL chips and electronic parts for sale
Organization: University of California, at Berkeley
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 04:17:49 GMT

I have some TTL chips and other assorted electronic parts that I want to
sell, and I'll sell them at the prices listed below or make an offer if you
wish.  Most of the TTL chips are 74LS series (low-power Schottky
transistor-transistor logic). Send inquiries via e-mail to
marcoseb@soda.berkeley.edu or c164-et@po.berkeley.edu (the second account
expires after December 1992, so it might be easier just to send mail to the
first one).

Part Description:		  Price per part,
				 in U.S. dollars:	Quantity:	

single pole double throw switch		1.00		2
smart led's (attach 4 wires, and
	it counts from 0 to 15 in
	hexadecimal: uses 5 volt logic)	3.50		2
2 MHz crystal clock			3.75		1
dip switches				1.25		1
momentary push button switches				2
pre-cut wire jumper kits		11.00		2

chips:

'00					0.20		3
'04					0.20		3
'08					0.20		1
'11					0.20		1
'27					0.20		2
'85					0.45		3
'86					0.20		1
'123					0.45		3
'139					1.00		3
'157					0.40		1
'163					0.45		15
'164					0.45		1
'169					0.60		2
'174					0.40		1
'279					0.35		4
'244					0.55		8
'273					0.55		8
'374					0.55		11
'390					10.00		5
'292				 	1.00		4
2114 RAM chips				1.20		2
555 timer				0.30		1
27C64 EPROM chips			4.00		6
assorted capacitors (mostly .01 and	free with large purchase
	.1 microfarad)
assorted resistors (mostly 330 ohms)	free with large purchase
lots of led's				free with large purchase
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: schaerer@isi.ethz.ch (Thomas Schaerer)
Subject: Re: Creating sci.semiconductors
Organization: Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH), Zurich, CH
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 08:36:57 GMT

Peter Nyffeler ,x4399 (peny@ppc.lpc.ethz.ch) wrote:
: Realy a good idea to divide sci.electronics newsgroup into specialized newsgroup.
: 
: I would like to suggest:
: 	sci.electronics.components	(including semiconductors)
: 	sci.electronics.instrumentation	(for measuring- and research-instrumentation)
: 
: Peter Nyffeler
: 	
: 

Very good! And I would like to suggest:
	sci.electronics.applications
	sci.electronics.switched-systems

Greeting  Thomas
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: barr@tramp.Colorado.EDU (BARR DOUG)
Subject: Oscilloscopes
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:15:56 GMT

I have an techtronixs 7904 oscilloscope and have 2 issues.
(I do not have the manual for it,  unfortunately)
1. How do I calibrate it? Both the voltage and time base have "fine tuning"
   adjustments. The scope has a calibrator knob with some ports near it.
2. Lets assume the voltage is NOT calibrated. Can I assume the ratios of
   two voltages are true, calibrated or not. In other words, if
   V1 reads 3V and V2 reads 8V (uncalibrated) can I assume V2 / V1 is the
   ratio of the True voltages?
   I believe I can.
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: msunde01@mik.uky.edu (Mark  Underwood)
Subject: Re: 486 CPU KOOLERS FOR SALE
Reply-To: msunde01@mik.uky.edu
Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 20:08:30 GMT

In article <1992Nov1.142745.9257@news.clarkson.edu>  
faruque@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (Abdullah Faruque,334CH,3752,2654247) writes:
> 
> Do not worry about the weight and torque. I installed one of these
> unit (which I purched from Jeff) in my vertical case. There is no way
> it can fall down or cause any problem. I was also concerned about this
> before buying it , but now I am very happy with this unit. You have to
> first remove the CPU, then put the base over the socket and then put
> back the CPU.  After that install the heatsink and fan unit over the
> CPU by using the clips that connects to the base.  Hope that helps.
> 
> -Faruque
> Email: faruque@sun.soe.clarkson.edu

Remove the CPU??  So much for the warrantee . . ..  Will the mounting  
hardware fit over zero-insertion-force and other "wierd" sockets, such as  
the new one on ZEOS machines that is oversized because it has extra pins  
for the P5 processor (or something they're anticipating as the next  
generation . . .)  ??
--
Mark Underwood
EE Student, University of Kentucky
Lab Assistant, UK Library Microlabs
Internet address:  msunde01@mik.uky.edu

"Cogito, ergo Sum." - Descartes
"Non Cogito - poof!" - Anonymous
From: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Would this blow my light?
Date: 6 Nov 1992 02:53:11 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu



I need some help here.
I have a small light I wish to use that is rated at 12V and
much greater than 500 mW.  

Can I get away with powering it be a 18V line at 500 mW?
Or could this possibly damage it from overheating or even
blow it?


If I can't hook it directly to the 18V line, can I use resistor
before the leads going to the light to reduce the voltage?
If so, what would the approximate value the resistors?

Thanks much.
 -Rich
From: rxy5310@hertz.njit.edu (rolan yang ee stnt)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: People tracker
Date: 6 Nov 92 16:49:50 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.

I threw together a motorized water gun that can rotate on the
3 axis controlled by computer and stepper motors. I'm looking
for an inexpensive way to 'track' people who would walk near it (within 15ft)
possibly using ultrasonics, some photocells, or anything cheap (no radar,
laser phase-shift or anything expensive).
From: rickert@mp.cs.niu.edu (Neil Rickert)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Adding a Second Phone Line
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:34:51 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Northern Illinois University

In article <1992Nov5.191846.199@cbnews.cb.att.com> wrb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wallace.r.blackburn) writes:
>>From article <Bx8C3s.C70@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, by cathy@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Catherine T Vojtas):
>>> I need to install a second line so I can have one for voice, one for data
>>> (can you guess why?)  The installation charge for the labor of putting in
>>> a second phone line is a bit pricey, but the woman at Illinois Bell told 
>>> me that I could do it myself if I knew how...

>>> Any help would be greatly appreciated..

>Check the phone lines in your house - they are most likely 4-wire (red,
>green, black, yellow).  If so, the job is trivial.  This is because you
>only need two lines.  Your original phone line should use red and green.
>You can use black and yellow for your second line.

That was what I thought, too.  So, before the installer arrived, I had
already made sure that the yellow/black was wired up for use on my modem
line.

>The Illinois Bell installer will simply bring the two wires from the second
>line to somewhere inside your house.  You just have to connect them to the
>black and yellow (he/she might go ahead and do it).

In my case, the Illinois Bell installer moved the connection from indoors
to outdoors.  He installed a box just outside, with three line connection
interfaces in it.  Each interface consisted of a 4 terminal wiring block
and a modular jack to disconnect the line.  He also ran 4 wires back
into the house to connect to the original red/green/yellow/black lines.
He connected the original incoming line to the first wiring block, which
he connected to the red/green running back into the house.  He connected
the yellow/black from the house to the second block, and he left the
third wiring block with no connections leading back into the house.

Naturally he connected the second phone line to the third wiring block,
meaning that the second line did not come into the house.  I presume
this was just to make sure that he was not doing any inside wiring for
the new line (I am not paying for their inside wiring service).  Thus
what could have been a 5-minute job took him more than one hour.  Not
a problem - I was not paying for that part of the job (I had the second
line installed during a "free installation" promotion), and moving the
yellow/black pair to the 2nd block was easy enough.

>If you get them backwards, the phone will work, that is you will be able to
>answer an incoming call.  But it won't dial out.  If this happens, just
>switch the two wires around.

Perhaps this depends on the type of telephone.  Many 'phones seem to work
and dial out with either polarity.
From: ebd0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (EDWARD BAYKAR DERVISHIAN)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Very annoying Humm on home stereo
Date: 10 Nov 92 05:41:30 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

I have a REALLY old SCOTT receiver. It works absolutely fine except for one
very annoying problem. It has a constant hum to it. Even when volume is off,
it hums through the speakers. If I shut off the speakers, there's no noise
(obviously). What can I do to get rid of this hum if anything?

     
-- 
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Edward Dervishian - The Eternal Spirit of the Underworld!
PHONE:  1-215-758-1409      * "Either up your nose, or through your
ADDRESS:  Box 0686          *  vein, with nothing to gain except
          Lehigh University *  killing your brain! Freeze!"
          Bethlehem, PA     *
          18015             *
From: adk@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Andrew Kennedy)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Op amp configuration question
Date: 5 Nov 92 10:07:13 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Edinburgh

In article <1992Nov05.043724.130701@zeus.calpoly.edu>, mruddick@joule.elee.calpoly.edu (Michael Ruddick) writes:
> Be careful...you should only have to use one op-amp for what you are doing.
> It sounds like you want the op-amp to amplify your signal as much as
> it can, then pass it to another one that does the same thing.  Op-amps
> don't work like that...just use a standard non-inverting op-amp configuration
> and set your gain...if you set it too high, then the output will just switch
> back and forth between the two supply voltage rails --> high amounts of
> distortion!

yes, but for high frequency, high gain work, you need several low gain devises, as
the bandwidth drops  of at HF, so you only get (eg) x10, so for x200 you need 3 amps

regards
	Andrew

-- 
     /  \  |  |   Andrew Kennedy -  First Year Student -  BSc (hons) AI & CS  
    /    \ |  |   Edinburgh University -  And these are my opinions (c) 1992
   /  /\  \|  |   ----------------------------------------------------------
  |   __   |  |   "Continuity was an AI, and                adk@dcs.ed.ac.uk  
  |__|  |__|__|    AIs did things like that..."       akennedy@nyx.cs.du.edu
From: paula@nlbbs.UUCP (Paula Stockholm)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Cause of failure in keypads?
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 02:38:16 GMT
Reply-To: paula@nlbbs.UUCP
Distribution: world
Organization: The Electronics Workbench


In article <1992Nov11.195357.12489@doug.cae.wisc.edu> siegel@cae.wisc.EDU writes:

 > 
 > 
 > I have a cordless phone on which the buttons no longer
 > work reliably. I took the phone apart and disassembled
 > the keypad unit. . The circuit board traces
 > were dirty, so I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol and
 > figured that would be the end of the problem.
 > Unfortunately it wasn't. So I cleaned it again and 
 > rearranged the buttons, what is the problem?
 > 
  Jeff,

        You're doing just fine. I service cordless phones - the
        proceedure I use is to spray a paper towel with CONTACT CLEANER
        (alcohol has some oils in it) and rub the keys on it. The fact
        that you get several 1's indicates it does work.

        You might test for cracks by powering up the phone while the
        keypad is apart and jumping across the 1s contacts with a
        screwdriver. Keypads aren't too expensive. What brand/model. I
        might have one in stock.

        
           Paula Stockholm              paula@nlbbs.UUCP        
          Cumberland, Maine          !nlbbs!paula@uunet.uu.net  
        
        
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
From: grier@bnr.ca (Brian Grier)
Subject: Re: Radio Transmitter
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1992 13:46:55 GMT

> 
> I need to make a simple radio frequency transmitter with the following
> characteristics: range of a few miles, transmit on a single frequency, 
> energy derived from a button cell, CHEAP.
> 
> Any ideas on how I can build something like that?  Would a simple crystal
> oscillator do?  
> 
> Thanks for your help.  Please email me at gn1@umail.umd.edu

You do not say if this will be a beacon, digital, or voice transmitter.
if all you want is a beacon then it's easy. Digital, and or voice and the
complexity goes up, along with power requirements.

Considering Hams running 0.01 watts can "talk", using morse code, around the
world, range is not a real problem. Receiver sensitivity, and propagation
are your real problems, though if you only care about a couple of miles
both HF and VHF will suffice. I would recommend VHF to make sure your signal
does not propagate around the world.

I would recommend getting a copy of 73 magazine and look for articles on QRP, 
less-than 5 watts, transmitters. Remember if you transmit with 0.1watts or 
more you will need a license.

Brian, WS1S
Bell Northen Research
Research Triangle Park, NC
From: jon@cs.washington.edu (Jon Jacky)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Terminal keyboard keys quit working - any recourse?
Summary: Keys are going dead, one by one - what do I do now?
Keywords: Terminals, keyboards, keys, do-it-yourself
Date: 8 Nov 92 21:59:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: beaver.1992Nov8.215943.3943
Followup-To: jon@radonc.washington.edu
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle

I have a Heathkit H29 terminal I built from a kit eight or nine years ago.
It's been working great all this time, but just recently it has developed
a problem.   The keyboard keys have begun to go dead, one by one.  First
it was the 1/! key - oh well, how often do you need to type "1" or "!" --- but
then the RETURN key failed.   There is nothing intermittent about it; the keys
worked fine and then all of a sudden they stopped - no amount of pounding or
jiggling could make them work again.

Does anyone have any advice for what to do about this  (other than the obvious
advice of getting a new terminal).   I recall a thread a while ago about 
putting things in dishwashers ... 

- Jon Jacky, University of Washington, jon@radonc.washington.edu