HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hwt@bwdlh490.BNR.CA (Henry Troup)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Problems with Plaster
Date: 13 Apr 92 13:20:49 GMT
Reply-To: Henry.Troup@BNR.CA
Distribution: na
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Canada

In article <ktv85qINNmh4@news.bbn.com>, mjensen@BBN.COM (Martin Jensen) writes:

|>    Someone  suggested using joint compound, but I would wonder about its
|>    viability over such large areas.  At this stage I would  welcome  any
|>    suggestions or alternatives.

a.k.a drywall mud?  I'd use it.  I had to apply a lot of mud to a wall
where the previous paint had been appplied over unprimed drywall mud. 
It's easy to sand but should be primed before painting or papering.  Use
a plasterers float or a very wide plastic knife; the wider the better
for large areas.
                            
  Henry Troup - HWT@BNR.CA (Canada) - BNR owns but does not share my opinions
!erutangis ruoy otni suriv erutangis siht ypoc ot nevird ylsuoicsnocbus era uoY
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:6147 rec.pets.cats:4687
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Wednesday, 8 Apr 1992 15:39:18 MST
From: Allen French <ICSAFF@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.pets.cats
Subject:    Alarm systems and cats

I just had my post-burglary :-( alarm system installed, but I don't see
how I can leave the motion detector on since I have a cat that does get
up on things high enough to set off the alarm. They pointed the detector
to catch things waist-high, but the beam naturally gets lower the further
it gets from the detector. I can't afford to have contacts on ALL the
windows, so the motion detector is an important element in the system.

There is supposed to be something called a "pet lens" which the security
firm didn't have. Does it reflect/disperse the beams to restrict coverage?
Can anything be done manually to restrict its coverage, such as covering
the lower part of the lens with an opaque or translucent material?

I will do some experimenting, but I could benefit from some net wisdom or
experience in these matters. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Allen French
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:6226 rec.pets.cats:4781
From: maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.pets.cats
Subject: Re: Alarm systems and cats
Date: 11 Apr 92 17:13:23 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens


	My parents put an alarm system in their house and had the
motion detecor set at about shoulder height.  They don't normally
leave the detector on when they go out but when they do it's never
been tripped.  Their cats don't jump too much but one is fed on the
cradenza (sp) in the hallway and is often found snoozing there, and
that doesn't trip it.  I would see if they can adjust yours higher.  I
doubt any criminal will crawl away with your tv :)

Joan

-- 
J. C. Maxfield				maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu
DISCLAIMER:  I don't speak for the University, but they often speak for me!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gdw@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (gordon.d.woods)
Subject: Re: Aluminium Wiring
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 13:27:37 GMT

From article <1992Mar24.180644.29640@linus.mitre.org>, by mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley):
> 2.  The code does not demand that any modifications be made to an 
> installation with aluminum wiring, however, they recommend:
>          a. pigtail copper wire to the ends of the aluminum wire and make 
> connections to outlets, switches, fixtures, etc in this manner,
>          b. insure that all switch and outlets are of the AL/CU type.  
The fact that code does not demand modifications does not make it safe.
I know of NO code items that are NOT grandfathered.
> 
> 3.  Aluminum wire expands and contracts at a greater rate than copper.   
> Therefore, it is possible for terminal connections made with aluminum 
> wiring to work themselves loose over time, hence an increase in contact 
> resistance, arcing, and ultimate burning thru of the wire.  I had this occur a few times in my house and it happened in neighbors houses.  The interesting 
> thing  is that it only occurred with the non AL/CU type devices.  In any 
> event, it is advisable that you check all outlet connections once a year 
> to insure that they are tight and the ends of the aluminum wire have not 
> suffered any damage from excessive heat or arcing.  In one case the arcing 
> was so severe that the terminal post actually separated from the 
> receptacle housing.
> 
> The bottom line: aluminum wire installations are safe if done properly, 
> and, aluminum wire installations require maintenance that is unnecessary 
> with copper wire installations.  I would not dismiss a house because it 
> had aluminum wire, but I would have an electrical inspector check out the 
> installation.  Since the house you mentioned was built before 1974, it is 
> very possible that you still have old devices not certified as AL/CU.   BTW they cost about 3-4 times as much as the straight copper devices.  I heard estimates from other homeowners of $2500 to pigtail all devices in a 4 bdrm, 2.5 bath house.
> 
Anyone who propagates this myth of tightening screws once a year
should be taken out an shot. In general, this makes the problems
MUCH WORSE because you're constantly disturbing the connections.
$2500 sounds rather pricey. I had all my devices done with Copalum
connectors for $10/device; there where about 100 devices. As many
on the net will probably assure you, the county inspector is one
of the worst places to get good information; especialy as regards
safety.
From: moulton@cs.utk.edu (Steve Moulton)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: The Smoking Refrigerator
Date: 17 Apr 92 00:31:58 GMT
Organization: Barking Dog Systems, Unpleasant Odor Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: blitzen.cs.utk.edu

In article <1992Apr16.230234.4928@news.eng.convex.com> oppedahl@convex.COM (Doug Oppedahl) writes:
>
>Every time I open the refrigerator in the place I recently rented, it
>smells as if the refrigerator has been smoking cigarettes while I had my
>back turned.    [some text omitted]
>Is the odor "stuck" in the plastic parts inside the frig, or somewhere
>else?  (The outside of the refrigerator doesn't smell bad.)

Probably.  Plastic does like to soak up odors.  The best odor-killer
that I know of is a ammonia-water solution (ya know, like about 10%
ammonia).  Wipe down all plastic surfaces,  leave the fridge closed
for an hour or so (since the smell has probably got into all of the
inside air paths), and then let it air a while before restarting it.
Wearing gloves while it wiping down would probably be a good idea. 

Of course you know this, but DON'T mix ammonia with bleach!

I use a cup of ammonia in the laundry (again, no bleach) to cut odors
in nastoid clothes, too.  Be careful - ammonia will take the press out
of permanent press.

Let us know how it works out.

-- 
Steve Moulton (moulton@cs.utk.edu) | I've always been more comfortable sinking 
University of Tennessee, Knoxville | while clutching a good theory than swim-
Department of Computer Science     | ming with an ugly fact.  - David Mamet
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wreck@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com (R. Cage)
Subject: Re: Need Recomendations for Electric Lawnmower
Summary: Lawn Boy
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 17:54:48 GMT

My family has had two Lawn Boy electrics in two households.
Aside from having a switch and a pigtail cord go bad on one,
they have both performed flawlessly for many years.  They
can either bag or mulch.  Switching takes about 2 minutes.
-- 
Russ Cage              wreck@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com  russ%rsi@sharkey.cc.umich.edu
  *  When Ford pays me for my opinions, THEN they can call them theirs. *

                           _Bad_ cop.  No donut.
From: lcrowley@sandia.UUCP (Linda Crowley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Retaining Wall in Yard
Date: 15 Apr 92 15:04:33 GMT
Organization: Sandia Natl Labs, Div. 9226


I have seen a couple of retaining walls built out of something called
Keystone.  They are beautiful - after I saw one for the first time, I
wanted to put in a retaining wall somewhere just because I was so
impressed with how they looked.  The walls are made of individual blocks,
with each block being about 16 inches long, 12 inches high, and 24 inches
deep.  (These are innacurate measurements - the last time I saw a block
up close was about a year ago and I can't remember exactly what it looked
like.)  When the wall is finished, the visible side has a kind of
bulbous look, with each block sticking out and rounded.  The two walls
I've seen made out of it were both red clay-colored - I don't know if
you can get it in other colors.

I think the way you install them is to stack them up, then insert reebar 
down thru the backs of them, then backfill.  The one person I talked to 
that had actually installed them said it took lots of muscle but was relatively
easy, definitely a do-it-yourselfer job.

You may be able to find out more about these blocks from a brick company
or some other place specializing in masonry blocks.  I don't think they
are a local product here in New Mexico, but maybe I'm wrong.

   - linda

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Linda Crowley, Albuquerque, NM
uucp:      ...{ucbvax | gatech}!unmvax!sandia!lcrowley
InterNet:  unmvax.unm.edu!sandia!lcrowley  OR  sandia!lcrowley@unmvax.unm.edu
From: freds@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Fred Saavedra)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:31:09 GMT
Subject: Need Surveyor, in CA.
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house



Hi ,

I need to have a lot survey done before our local planning department
will approve my room additions. 

Q1:  Do you know of a good surveyor that does work in Belmont California?

Q2:  Does anyone know what or how a surveyor charges?

Thx,


 ------------------------------------------------------------
| Fred Saavedra                   Hewlett-Packard Company    | 
| freds@hpprsd1.mayfield.hp.com                              |
| freds@15.3.33.115               Mountain View, CA          |
 ------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: GA.MCL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Mark C. Lawrence)
Subject: Re: GFI question
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 01:23:13 GMT

In article <1992Apr09.143601.2042@fincomp.raidernet.com>,
root@fincomp.raidernet.com (Neal McClain) writes:
>ronnie@cisco.com (Ronnie B. Kon) writes:
>>Remember that a GFI recepticle protects all recepticles further on the
>>circuit as well as itself.
>
>It does?  Are you sure?  Somehow, this doesn't seem right to me.

Most GFI receptacles have provision for wiring additional outlets
to the "protected" side of the GFI.  These "downstream" outlets are
protected, because the current they draw passes thru the GFI's
unbalance sensor, and they will be disconnected when the GFI trips.
Outlets between the breaker and the GFI outlet will not be protected.
From: dvw@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (diane.v.wilkerson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: $5k break for first-time buyers - what's the story?
Date: 17 Apr 92 19:18:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Apr17.164145.22892@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> pjs@euclid.jpl.nasa.gov writes:
>I'm about to close (yay!) on my first place and I still don't
>know what the story is on this $5k break that Bush announced
>in January.  Last I heard they were arguing whether or not he
>meant a credit or a deduction.  A friend of mine thought that
>Congress had thrown the idea out altogether.
>
>I'd like to know so I can estimate my withholdings...
>
>-- 
>This is news.  This is your       |    Peter Scott, NASA/JPL/Caltech
>brain on news.  Any questions?    |    (pjs@euclid.jpl.nasa.gov)


"Announce" is a relative term.  It was part of Bush's State of the Union
address.  However, when the budget was sent to Congress, the tax credit
was no where to be found.  Last I read, he's still in favor of the credit
for first-time purchases on both new and existing homes.
"Congress" (you know, that body controlled by those wicked Democrats,
actually the budget committee) wants the tax credit only on newly constructed 
homes.  However, neither side has officially put it in their budget proposal, 
and even though I started on my buying process hoping for the credit, I'll 
never see it in my lifetime.

It was a nice idea.
-- 
Diane Wilkerson    | 
AT&T Bell Labs     | Honk if you hate all of the presidential candidates...
..!att!cbnewsh!dvw | 
(908) 615-2704     |
From: lenny@bmerh174.BNR.CA (Len DePalma)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Alarm systems and cats
Date: 11 Apr 92 18:36:17 GMT
Reply-To: lenny@bnr.ca
Organization: BNR Ottawa, Fiber Systems Development

FYI, we don't have an alarm system... but when we inquired at
a local company and mentioned we have a pet dog the reply was
to use a sensor on every exterior door *and* a glass breaking
sensor in place of the motion detector.  Hence, all paths
of entry would raise an alarm - ie: a forced door or broken
window, but at a cheaper cost than having a sensor on every
door *and* window.

Maybe those of you with pets could check out this alternative 
instead of the motion detector.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
INTERNET: lenny@bnr.ca       Any opinions expressed above are mine.
From: jerryc@Athena.dal.fsd.mot.com (Jerry Culp)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Which first - replacement windows or furnace?
Date: 16 Apr 92 20:32:45 GMT
Organization: Motorola Field Service Division - NTSC, Dallas TX.

In article <21150@venera.isi.edu> jlacoss@paddington.isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss) writes:
>
> Windows first.
>
> If they leak, it doesn't matter how good the furnace is.
>
> If your windows are tight, you'll be in better shape than you are
>now. (Certainly no worse off!)
>
>	Jeff
 I would get the furnace first if you wont have enough money after you buy
the windows to replace the furnace in case it breaks. In my case I bought 
a larger furnace/air conditioner than the house came with. The windows 
are still drafty, but in December (the month I use the most gas) my gas
bill was 50.00 compared to 116.00 from the year before.
 The other thing is, if your windows break you can cover them with plastic
or plywood. If your furnace dies and cant be fixed, then your going to have
one cold house. Get the furnace.
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jerry Culp   Motorola Computers       |   My employer disavows all knowledge 
National Technical Support Center     |   of any opinions expressed by me
                                      |   on this or any subject.
From: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com (Gantt Edmiston)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Real Estate Lawyers
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:29:05 GMT
Reply-To: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Originator: sasbge@ant.unx.sas.com
X-Bytes: 303

In article <92104.171816SAUDA@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, SAUDA@MAINE.MAINE.EDU writes:
>Does anyone have any tips as to what to look for when trying to
>line up a lawyer to assist in buying a house?  (To deal with
>purchase agreements, titles, etc.)
>
>M

A fully charged cattle prod might come in handy! =-)

G
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: thomson@hub.toronto.edu (Brian Thomson)
Subject: Re: GFI question
Organization: University of Toronto
Date: 13 Apr 92 15:02:01 GMT

Chris Lewis has a 99.99% reliability rating, but I believe a couple of
his recent contributions contained elements from the 0.01% pool ...

In article <3383@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) w
rites:
>In most cases, the only practical solution for Chris is to install
>a (very expensive) dual GFI breaker.
>
>The other alternative is to rewire the split near the sink to be a single
>GFI outlet.  I think the CEC would permit that if he otherwise met code
>for split receptacle counts.

After researching this for my own counter, where I put 3 duplex outlets,
I am quite certain that the CEC would not permit this.
All kitchen counter outlets *must* be split, even extra ones, and they
each *must* be on their own dedicated paired circuits.

In article <3391@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>In article <1992Apr10.12099b@f8.n154.z1.fidonet.org> jack@myamiga.mixcom.com (Jack Decker) writes:
>|Failing that, my other question would be whether putting two standard GFI
>|receptacles side by side in a duplex outlet box would satisfy the code, if each
>|receptacle were fed from opposite sides of the 220 volt circuit.  In other
>|words, on the left hand side you'd have one GFI with two outlets fed from Black
>|and White, and on the right hand side you'd have another GFI fed from Red and
>|White (with the white common to both receptacles).
>
>The neutral would have to "Y" on the *line* side (input) of the GFI, not the
>load (output/GFI protected) side.  So "common neutral" is misleading.
>
>|In my mind, this would be
>|the same as two split receptacles except the "split" would be between left and
>|right instead of top and bottom.  I suppose the code wouldn't allow anything
>|THAT sensible!
>
>There's a good chance that they would permit this.  A little unusual,
>but okay.

Sorry, Chris, I don't think they would.
The whole idea of the split receptacles is that you should have each
individual outlet on its own 15A circuit, so you can plug in the kettle
and the toaster oven and the iron and whatever else (all typically
12A appliances), all at the same time, in any available counter outlets.
This GFI receptacle scheme has four outlets on two circuits, and would
not meet those goals.

GFIing the counter is a darn good idea, but with the current Canadian
code there seems to be only one way to do it, and at $150 or more 
per split receptacle it is just too expensive to be practical.

Things could be worse, though.  I was talking to a spa salesman at the
Home Show yesterday, and he told me their product requires a 50A dual
GFI breaker, which sets you back on the order of $400CDN.  Ouch!
-- 
		    Brian Thomson,	    CSRI Univ. of Toronto
		    utcsri!uthub!thomson, thomson@hub.toronto.edu
From: ken@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com (Ken Bronstein)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 18:19:41 GMT
Subject: Refinishing Bathtubs??
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I am considering having an old bathtub refinished.  I would love to
hear from anybody who has had this done.  I saw a refinished bathtub
at a home show that looked great!  Does this stuff last?  I want to 
turn an old powder blue tub into white.

The work I saw was done by Bathcrest in Eugene, OR. using
Glazecote (TM), is a synthetic porcelin product which uses
chemical bonding.


Thanks,

   Ken Bronstein
   Corvallis, OR. 97330
   (503) 750-4133
From: rwojcik@atc.boeing.com (Richard Wojcik)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: dumping a broker
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:27:56 GMT
Distribution: misc
Organization: Boeing Computer Services Advanced Technology Center

In article <JACK.92Apr2084502@au-bon-pain.lcs.mit.edu> jack@au-bon-pain.lcs.mit.edu (Jack Costanza) writes:
>He said,"If we raise the commission we can work on the greed of the brokers. "
>He went on to explain that brokers will show the house that puts more dollars
>in their pocket. Also I have not heard from him since I signed the modified 
>contract, which was a month ago. Thanks for the pointer on performance items,
>I will inspect my contract tonight. 

That would seem logical, but buyers are the ones who need the most motivation.
If your house is priced right, it will sell itself.  Remember that agents pull
up lists of all the houses in a specific price range that fit their buyer's
criteria.  They aren't going to refuse to show your house just because your
commission is the standard one.  I suspect that your listing agent high-balled
you on the price and is just waiting for you to soften your asking price a
little.  He'll probably pay you a visit to point out that your house would get
more action if you lowered the price.  Not his fault--blame the market.  ;-)
The real action takes place towards the end of the listing period--when the
agent realizes that you might list with someone else if he doesn't get off his
duff.  That's when they hustle to hold open houses.

-- 
    Rick Wojcik   (rwojcik@atc.boeing.com)   Seattle, WA
From: dauphin@adobe.com (Kimberly Dauphin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Vinyl Flooring vs. Appliances
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:10:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

I'm planning to put down a new vinyl floor (Armstrong brand)
in my kitchen.  I've been told that I should not move appliances
back onto the new floor for 3 days, to avoid tearing or
"denting" it.

I know I'm going to have to move my refrigerator *out* of the kitchen
(to the dining room?) in order to put in the new floor.

So here's a stupid question:  Do I just leave my refrigerator 
in the dining room for 3 days?  (In other words, is there any
truth to the "3 day" rule for new vinyl floors vs. appliances?)

My brother-in-law ignored this rule (or never heard of it in the
first place) and moved his refrigerator back in the same night
he put in the new floor. His new floor looked fine 4.5 years later,
even when we moved the frig out and inspected the floor.

Any advice or comments will be appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
-- 
_____________________________________________________

Kimberly Dauphin	Adobe Systems Incorporated
dauphin@adobe.com	Mountain View, CA
From: rav@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (reinaldo.a.valenzuela)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Lowering garage to basement level and finishing upper level.
Summary: Excavating 3-4 ft under garage, extending fundation??
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:37:58 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


I would like to lower the garage floor down to the basement floor level.
Thus, I can buiild a floor at the house ground floor level and
turn the space above into a dramatic great room. This would involve:

 - Remove exixting garage doors.
 - Jacking-up the garage (so that fundation wall can be rebuilt/extended)
 - Breaking up the existing garage floor slab and about 1/2 of the driveway.
 - Excavating the garage floor 3-4 ft. 
 - Regrading the driveway so it is 4 ft lower at the garage end.
 - Wreking existing fundation walls around the garage perimeter
   (or extending down exixting walls??)
 - Re-building new, higher garage fundation walls
 - Pouring a new garage cement slab (now at the basement floor level)
 - Installing columns/girder/ floor joists/decking/flooring 
    to create the garage ceiling and great room floor.
 - Re-install garage doors at the new level.
 - Close-up are occupied by old garage doors
 - Extend siding on the sides and over location of old doors.


Is this totallt crazy?

Would it be cheaper to wreck the existing garage/fundation/slab
and start from scratch?

Approx. how much many can I expect to pay?

Does it make sense for me to act as general
contractor??

Any advice, suggestions, horror stories, etc.
appreciated!!

R. A. Valenzuela
rav@hoh-1.att.com
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 16:21:58 GMT
Subject: Re: Drought-resistant groundcover
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server