HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: john@cirrus.com (John Wishneusky)
Subject: Re: Upstate NY Sawmilling?
Summary: Lumber from logs
Organization: Cirrus Logic Inc.  Fremont, California
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 01:57:43 GMT

In article <1992Nov13.201718.19510@schbbs.mot.com> RYLV80@waccvm.corp.mot.com (William Mohrman) writes:
>
> Chris Writes:
> Saturday my neighbor revealed to me that he is sitting on some
> black walnut logs.  He did this by asking if he could borrow my
> woodsplitter to turn it into firewood.  When I got done howling,
> I asked for details.  It's cut into short lengths (3 to 6 feet)
> for easy handling, and has been air drying for at least 2 years
> The logs are 16 to 30 inches in diameter.  He says he called some
> local sawmills, but no one wanted to buy it from him.  He's agreed
> to give me a large portion of it, >if< I can get it sawn into
> lumber.  My question is this: is there anyone in the upstate NY
> (Rochester/Syracuse) area with a portable sawmill (compensation
> provided in the form of walnut lumber)?  Or does anyone know of
> a mill in the area who would cut this up for us?
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>Chris,
>Before you spend a lot of time and energy, you better check out
>the logs closer.  Green logs that are not cut into lumber quickly
>usually split and check making them good firewood.  This is even
>more true when the ends are not sealed after the tree is fallen.
>The logs start drying out from the ends and put tremendous
>stresses that cause checking.  Too bad you did'nt get a shot at
>them two years ago.
>This may be why the sawmills are not interested in the logs.
>On the other hand, they may be great.  Stranger things have
>happened....

You might also consider "Woodright Shop" techniques, particularly given
the short lengths.  I've watched Roy split a log into timbers (and
experimented with the method a bit myself) using a sledge, iron wedges
and "gluts".  The iron wedges are used into the end grain to start the
split.  Lightly pound a wedge in all along the desired split line to
establish the plane you want split.  Start several wedges along this
line, not driving any one in too far without bringing along the others
to get it to split where you want it.  If you really drive one in
first, the split is likely to runout in a different direction from the
one you want.  Once the wedges are all well in, the gluts come into
play.  They're just large wooden wedges you drive in from opposite
sides of the log, cross-grain, to continue to open up the split.  Three
or four gluts will do the job.  Make them from small log sections or
firewood splits.  Either bandsawing the wedge taper or cutting it with
a hatchet.  Depending on how straight your grain is, the splitting is
fairly easy.  You can quickly divide the walnut logs into walnut
billets for further resawing, adzing, bowl turning, etc.

Once you've divided the log down into more manageable sections, a froe
is very effective for further controlled splitting.

John
From: dmills@accvio.intel.com (Dave Mills)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planting exotic hardwoods
Date: 16 Nov 92 19:15:00 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

I've been thinking it'd be nice to try to plant some trees which "produce"
exotic hardwoods.  I live in Sacramento, which is more and more like a desert
every year, somewhat like I'd assume Africa is.  Has anyone tried planting 
things like Rosewood, Cocobola, etc, (sorry if I've picked all the wrong
examples here, but you know what I mean), and if so, where did you get the
trees, and what kind of luck did you have?

I'm not really interested in the more common hardwoods we see around here
(oak, maple, sycamore...).

Thanks, Dave
-----------------
David Mills
Intel Corporation
dmills@intel.com
From: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Source for mirrors
Date: 20 Nov 92 18:41:00 GMT
Reply-To: paul.burnett@pcs.sj.ca.us (Paul Burnett)
Organization: PCS-BBS - San Jose, CA - 408-270-4085

TO: harold.klee@synapse.org (Harold Klee)

HK>One of the things I would like to try to
  >build is a kaleidoscope, since I also collect them.  However, I am
  >having a tough time finding first surface mirrors.

At the slight angle of reflection of a kaleidoscope, consider using
highly polished sheet metal of some sort - it has the added advantage of
being unbreakable.

---
 . QMPro 1.0 41-8688 . ...from San Jose, CA
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Shaper cutter companies
Date: 18 Nov 92 01:46:49 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Followup-To: Re: shaper cutter companies
Organization: Sun Microsystems

The companies that i know of that have lots of shaper bits are:
 
     AmMax Tool Co.           (Taiwan imports)
        800-782-6629
        619-271-9950 (ca)

     Ballew Saw & Tool        (at least 50 pages of every type
        800-288-7483            fast and friendly)
        417-865-7511 (mo)

     Woodworkers Supply       
        800-645-9292
 
     Grizzly Imports 
        (call 800 info)
             
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <UKA004@ukcc.uky.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 23 Nov 1992 08:48:42 EST
From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
Subject:      Re: 115-piece drill set
              21 Nov 1992 20:18:27 GMT from <scotto@IPARS.CTS.COM>

Go with the HANSEN if you do not have a problem with the price.  I don't
have a complete set of them but as I replace one of another brand that
is what I am buying.  I have even found a few good used ones at our
local flea market and at auctions.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:40:17 GMT

sesv@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (steven.e.sommars) writes:

: >	   board right at the saw blade. BUT, when the cut finishes the
: >	   spring action pushes the off-cut into the blade.  This means
: >	   you place the holder farther back
: 
: You want to force the wood against the fence and down, never
: into the blade.  Featherboards should end in front
: of the sawblade.  Some other types of hold-downs can be placed 
: between the sawblade and the fence.

Correct. If you want a featherboard after the blade (to keep the work
piece against the fence better), then you need to be making a cut that
is less than the blade kerf thick. That way, there is no waste stock
to get in the way.

Since I have a highly smooth and waxed table top, it is easy for me to
let the board wander away from the fence. With a sharp blade, I do not
even notice, until too late. The second featherboard - behind the blade
on finish cuts - eliminates this problem.

Bill

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (Mark Hampton - "Animal")
Subject: Re: Tools Made in America
Summary: 
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:27:34 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

I have bought a collection of tools from AMT that are made in Pennsylvania. (Their drill press is made in Taiwan). I am happy with the 14" bandsaw and the Cast Iron Lathe. I can get you more info if you need it.

From: gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 18:45:37 GMT
Subject: Re: problem with planer
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu writes:
>
>I have a 12" Delta portable planer.  I was planing some stock when
>I noticed that one edge was thinner than the other.  I have reset
>the knives but am still having a problem.  When I feed a narrow piece
>of stock through the planer on the right hand side the planer
>doesn't remove any material but when I feed it through on the left
>hand side it does remove material.  I also tried drawing a line with
>a pencil on a wide board and when I feed it through the planer it
>removes the line on the left but not on the right.  I have spent the
>last two hours trying to reset the knives but apparently to no avail.
>Could there be anything else wrong with the planer?  Or am I just
>having a problem setting the knives straight?  I am using the guide
>that came with the planer to try and set the knives.  Can anyone
>help?
>----------

   1.  Call Delta's Service line:
 
         901 363-2843  or 901 363-3826 

       You will probably have to wait as they are usually quite busy.
       They give very reliable information regarding Delta tools.


   2.  I have had no such problem with my planer.  It sounds like you have
       either a defect or a MAJOR misadjustment in the cutting cylinder 
       itself.   Probably the blades are set pefectly in relation to the
       cylinder, but the cylinder is skewed in relation to the bottom
       platform.   Either something broke, or there is something that can
       be re-adjusted.   At any rate, it sounds like you are in for some
       major dissassembly.   I have had mine apart, it is not too hard
       to do, but I can't remember exactly how the cutting head mates to
       the guide rails.   Take it apart, and you will likely find out.


   3.  The other ugly possibility is that somehow the whole casing has gotten
       damaged.   Did you drop it, or hit it with anything?  
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 02:37:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Roy Underhill is a good turner.  Norm ain't.
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

rainer@spot.Colorado.EDU (Rainer Malzbender) writes:
>In article <4320061@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>   Norm is not the craftsman that Roy is, but he gets things done.  Nice
>>   plans, sometimes, and good tips on construction.   But when it comes to
>>   fine woodworking, Roy is your man.  
>
>Not! I've never seen either Norm or Roy (especially not Roy!) build anything
>that even remotely would qualify for a Fine Woodworking cover. We need a
>new show by someone who's not addicted to Shaker furniture or to the "gotta
>start by mining the ore if you want to make a table" school of woodworking.
>----------

   Mostly I agree.  It would be nice to see more practical stuff.  I, 
   personally, cannot stand adirondak chairs or shaker furniture.

   I am building kitchen cabinets at the moment, and intend to go on to 
   windows, doors (as in fielded panel entry doors), and maybe tables and
   entertainment centers, etc.

   On the other hand, Fine Woodworking has it's share of shaker furniture.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Reliant Tools info
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 13:33:52 GMT

In article <98002@netnews.upenn.edu> dembrows@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Barry Dembrowski) writes:
>
>		I'm looking for information on Reliant Tools. I received
>   their catalogue recently and I was wondering if anyone has good or bad
>   news about their quality, prices, or customer service.


The Reliant machines are the same Taiwanese tools as are sold under
many other names.  I have the Reliant 1HP dust collector, which works
well, and is identical to the Jet (and others).  I also have a Reliant
bench 13" drill press, which is the same as many others (although in
this case, it is far more massive than the Delta 12" for about $30
less).  The Reliant 6" jointer and 10" table saw are also the same as
the Jet jointer and table saw.  The quality is good, but they are
Taiwanese tools, and like almost all Taiwanese tools, the crates don't
get opened until you get it home.  One thing I liked about the Reliant
line that made me willing to buy them is that the store (Woodworker's
Warehouse) is local and I could easily return it if there was anything
wrong.

Barry


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: equacken@encore.com (Eric E. Quackenbush)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Reliant Tools info
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:37:18 GMT

bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith) writes:

>In article <98002@netnews.upenn.edu> dembrows@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Barry Dembrowski) writes:


>The Reliant machines are the same Taiwanese tools as are sold under
>many other names.  I have the Reliant 1HP dust collector, which works
>well, and is identical to the Jet (and others).                       

Not necessarily true.  I have an aquaintance that is an importer of some
of the Taiwanese tools and here is what he has told me.

The same factories make many differant brand names but they are not all
made to the same specifications.  For example:  The run out of and arbor
might be aggreed apon as x amount of millemeters while another company
doesn't have as high a requirement or don't specify any at all.  This 
goes for most all of the components including table flatness and motor
design.  So what happens is you get two, three or more differant brands
that all look exactly alike but the quality might be drastically differant.

I'm not saying Reliant tools are any better or worse than Jet or any
other Taiwanese.  This is just food for thought.

>Barry

Eric

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: slover@sugaree.megatek.com (Steve Slover)
Subject: Thin Hardwood Source
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 21:14:52 GMT


I am trying to find a source for thin hardwood.  I am looking for stuff
from 1/16" to 1/2" thick.  Does anyone know of a good place with low
prices either mail order or near San Diego?  It would be used to build
small boxes, possibly a sewing box and maybe even a briefcase.

Posting answers is ok but email is better since our News system is flaky.

Thanks.

Steve


--
Steve Slover
{ucsd,uunet}!megatek!slover
(619) 455-5590
From: sjc@cs.purdue.edu (Steve Chapin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Cradle Plans
Date: 15 Nov 1992 21:33:39 -0500
Organization: Department of Computer Sciences, Purdue University
	<1992Nov15.232724.17198@wuecl.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bredbeddle.cs.purdue.edu
In-reply-to: dls@wuee1.wustl.edu's message of Sun, 15 Nov 1992 23:27:24 GMT


See Woodsmith:

Volume 8
        Issue 48, Baby Cradle
                "We considered two things with this design.
                First, the woodworker who makes it may live far
                away.  Second, babies grow up fast.  So the
                cradle knocks down for shipping, or until the
                next baby." (hardware kit available)

sjc@cs.purdue.edu               Steve Chapin           Today's Grammar Lesson:
       "If you loose your arrow, you're likely to lose it in the weeds,"
                       was often heard in days of yore.

        "...the probability of a puttering nutcase slaving alone in his
         workshop actually developing fundamentally new technology is
                     practically nil..."  -- John DeArmond
From: leut@elc11.icase.edu (Scott T. Leutenegger)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Glue up mistake
Date: 16 Nov 1992 15:03:34 GMT
Organization: ICASE/NASA Langley
NNTP-Posting-Host: elc11.icase.edu


First thanks to all for your helpful suggestions.  I think I mailed
a response thanking each of you who sent me email, but if I missed you
before, thanks!

Okay, the major suggestions for fixing the mistake where:

1) To take apart a glue joint use vinegar, acetone, or alcohol as a solvent.

2) Cut out the panel from the inside of the chest, flip the panel over,
   and hold the panel in place with small strips of wood, similar to
   how you put glass into cabinet doors.

3) Flip the panels on both ends so it is symetrical.


What I did:

  I tried to take apart a test joint with vinegar, no luck.  
  It could be that I did not soak it enough, I just kept pouring it over
  the joint every 5 minutes.  

  By this time more than a week had passed and I got philosophical (lazy?).
  I decided to just leave it as is.  I figure there are enough mistakes
  in that blanket chest that there is no reason I should pick this
  mistake out as the one to fix.  Besides, I am NOT a paid professional,
  I am doing this to have fun and have the pleasure of saying, "I made
  that."  Sort of like I do when I look at my new son :)

  Anyways, this whole process is a learning process, and that backwards
  panel will serve as a reminder for me.  Besides which, I would rather
  move forward on new projects rather than fix old mistakes.

  A final rationalization, New Mexican artisians always make one part
  of the art slightly different to make it unique.  (Many midwestern
  quilters do this too.)  Hence, my blanket chest is not a mistake,
  it is just me subconciously making it unique!

Thanks for your suggestions, sorry I can not tell you whether acetone
or alcohol take apart elmers wood-working glue, but with a new job
and a new baby I find little time in my shop.  

---Scott

P.S.  Bordern does not have an 800 number and I did not bother to find
there phone number since by then I decided to live with the mistake.


-- 
Scott T. Leutenegger                       Phone:  804-864-8003
Mail Stop 132c                             FAX:    804-864-6134
NASA Langley Research Center
Hampton, VA 23681-0001                     email:  leut@icase.edu
From: hosken@spss.com (Bill Hosken)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planing glued-up boards
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:40:59 GMT
Organization: SPSS, Inc.

In article <4320060@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
> Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET> writes:
> >
> >I remember an author in FWW a while back (don't remember the issue) describing
> >his method for flattening glued-up panels: he builds them in 12"-wide sections
> >and runs them through his planer before gluing up the sections to each other.
> >Won't this trash the knives? (Or is it worth it to have a nice, flat tabletop.)
> >----------
> 
>     I have put some glued-up panels through my planer.  It didn't hurt the
>     steel knives, as far as I can tell.  I went on to plane a lot of other
>     lumber.
> 
>     Why would glue hurt the knives?
> 

The glue line causes a hot spot in one part of the blade.  How hot will vary
alot, but it can burn a nick into the blade so that subsequent boards will
show a slightly raised line.  In routers this will affect highspeed steel but
probably not carbide.  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jp@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (John Pierce)
Subject: Re: Scraping/Burnishing versus Sanding
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 14:12:01 GMT
Organization: the Atlanta Technology Center

In <1992Nov19.034409.26400@cbnewse.cb.att.com> jrdailey@cbnewse.cb.att.com (j.rex.dailey) writes:

>The last thing Frank Klausz does to the piece of walnut is to sand it
>BECAUSE (using his words) "the wood will accept the stain or finish more
>evenly on a freshly sanded surface".  While the scraped surface looks
>great, the sanded wood pores are not burnished and are more open.  So they 
>will more uniformly take the stain or finish being supplied.

>Rex Dailey
>jrdailey @ cbnewse.cb.att.com

Thanks, Rex.  I could not remember exactly what he said, since I keep my
copy of the video at the Public Library ;-).  That's what I was trying
to say, but from a "personal enlightenment" viewpoint.

My point in putting out the post is that the experts often mention something
in an offhand way that those of us who are coming up the learning curve don't
fully grasp.  Then as we experiment, the understanding comes.  I, for one,
would like to understand *why* I do something, rather then just slavishly
following rules.  After I understand *why*, I will be happy to resort to
rule-following.

The piece of info I missed every time I watched the video is why a scraper
cuts and burnishes and the causal relationship to what you do later.
The burnishing aspect was there, but is not as obvious as the cutting part.
What got me thinking about it was the previous notes string.  Then I
I just HAD to experiment to see what it was all about.  Now I'm satisfied
(until I think about it some more !-)).

I agree with Bob Flexner:  I enjoy this hobby because it gives me a chance
to think, to learn, and to enjoy.

John Pierce
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dls@wuee1.wustl.edu (Donald L. Snyder)
Subject: planer/jointer blade adjustment
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:43:53 GMT

My Delta 12" planer and 6" jointer are well overdue for blade
replacement.  I see several options for approaching the task and
am interested in learning about the experiences others have had.
 Here are the choices I've identified so far.  Maybe others can
be suggested.

1.  Use the trial and error adjustment procedures in the manuals
supplied with the machines.  Maybe this isn't too bad, I don't
know.  My reading of the sales brochures and articles below lead
me to believe that this is tedious and not too accurate.

2.  Magnaset.  These are widely advertised devices that use
magnets on a pair of arms at each end of the blade to hold the
blades in place while set screws are tightened.  Sounds
straightforward, but the cost is high.  Really high since
separate Magnasets are required for the planer and jointer.  My
just received catalog from Woodworker's Supply has these listed
at $71.95 for the planer and $41.50 for the jointer (assuming
steel and not carbide blades).  Each is a substantial fraction
of the cost of the planer or jointer itself.

3.  Dial indicators.  The use of  these for setting planer and
jointer blades is described in issues #70 (I haven't seen this
yet) and #87 of FWW.  This seems attractive because one dial
indicator can evidently be used for setting the blades of both
machines and can be useful for other purposes too.  I don't know
the cost of a dial indicator of the type used in the FWW
article, which includes an electromagnet to hold it in place.



4.  Knife Alignment Sensor.  This is advertised on page 5 of the
Dec. 92 issue of FWW.  The literature sent to me by Chesapeake
Enterprises, who sell the device, shows that it senses
electrical conductivity via sensors held in place by magnets --
you raise the blade until contact is made and a light flashes
and then you set the screws to hold the blade.  Unlike the
Magnaset, this has is a configuration with one arm that extends
over the blade, so separate measurements would seem to be needed
at each end of the blade being set.  I haven't used this
contraption, but my guess is that some repetition must be
necessary, with the device being moved from one end of the blade
to the other until the blade is set as desired.  Seems like a
reasonable idea, and the single device can be used for both the
planer and jointer.  But it's expensive at $99.95.





Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tatem@tralfamadore.csc.ti.com (Joe Tatem)
Subject: Re: help, glue up mistake
Organization: Texas Instruments
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 18:10:20 GMT

One more data point. In the latest Workbench (says Jan 1993 on the cover, just got it this
week), Bob Flexner mentions that acetone can be used as a solvent for white and yellow glue.


						Joe Tatem
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking