HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: djones@iex.iex.com
Subject: Sterling Spitfire
Organization: IEX Corporation Inc.
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 18:26:55 GMT

Has anyone had any experience with the Sterling Spitfire. I expect that
like most Sterling kits, it is a builders kit (ie LOTSA wood). But
does it fly well. They claim a 64" wing span, and requirement of a
.35 to .60 engine. How about a 48 Surpass? Good enough? How scale is it? Anyway
Omni models is having a close out sale and are offering the 
kit for $49.99. Though I am up to my eyeballs in building projects
(a Flair Magnatillia, a Flair Pupeteer, a Flair SE5a and a scratch
build Fokker D-VIII) the price makes it an interesting proposition.

Thanks in advance!

Doug
-------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)612-2600 ext: 325
                                   |    djones@iex.iex.com
                                   |    uunet!iex!djones
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: frank@evax2.engr.arizona.edu (Frank Manning)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: MonoKote/SuperMonoKote (was FliteKote<=>MonoKote?)
Date: 3 Jan 93 22:40:54 GMT
Reply-To: frank@evax2.engr.arizona.edu
Distribution: world,local
Organization: University of Arizona, College of Engineering and Mines, Tucson

In article <C0Ar19.JB3@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
(Iskandar Taib) writes:
>
>In article <swhite.725657520@convex.com>, swhite@convex.com (Steve Whiteside)
>wrote:
>>
>>  Q) What is the difference between MonoKote and SuperMonoKote?
>
>I believe Monokote was the original covering way back in time. I seem
>to recall someone telling me that the adhesive was pressure-sensitive,
>i.e. it was more like FasCal and not an iron-on.

I remember trying out the original Monokote when it first came out back in
the mid-to-late sixties. Boy oh boy was I disappointed.

It was somewhat pressure-sensitive, but it was indeed iron-on, and you
could use it directly over sheeted surfaces. However, what the ads and
modeling press tended to gloss over was you couldn't use it to cover an
open-framework unless you first used Silkspan or something. In other words,
the Monokote went on top of conventional covering.

I found this out the hard way. This is one thing that peeved me about the
model press at the time -- presenting an overly-rosy picture of the
product. Only in the fine print -- if at all -- did it mention the
open-framework restriction.

-- Frank Manning                                   --
-- College of Engineering and Mines                --
-- Civil Engineering 100, University of Arizona    --
-- Tucson, AZ  85721  frank@evax2.engr.arizona.edu --
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Quiet combat?
Organization: Indiana University
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1992 19:31:10 GMT

In article <LARRY.92Dec25074349@peak.psl.nmsu.edu> larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way) writes:

>I've read some recent posts about FAI rule changes and, in particular, 
>silencers on combat engines.

>My interest was tweaked a bit. I've often wondered about the future of 
>mufflers and CL combat. What's really going on in development in this area? 
>And how do the real combat fliers feel about it? 

Most combat fliers I talked to are against it unless someone finds a way 
to make a non-breakable, disposable muffler that doesn't cost very much. 
Also, a way has to be found to attach it to existing engines without much
modification and weight.

The big difference between Combat and other forms of model aviation is 
that the planes are expected to hit each other and Terra Firma rather
regularly. The good thing is our motors (the expensive part of the air-
plane) are pretty good at surviving mishaps such as these (though not 
100% of the time!). Most feel that the addition of a muffler will not 
only cause weight problems (Fast Combat planes weigh about 18-21 oz, so 
a 3 oz muffler is quite an addition) but will be costly in a crash. 
Aside from losing the muffler the engine it is attached to might break.








-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Sterling Spitfire
Date: 31 Dec 1992 19:30:22 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: bs464@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Duncan R. McCoy)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, djones@iex.iex.com () says:

>Has anyone had any experience with the Sterling Spitfire. I expect that
>like most Sterling kits, it is a builders kit (ie LOTSA wood). But
>does it fly well. They claim a 64" wing span, and requirement of a
>.35 to .60 engine. How about a 48 Surpass? Good enough? How scale is it? Anyway
>Omni models is having a close out sale and are offering the 
>kit for $49.99. Though I am up to my eyeballs in building projects
>(a Flair Magnatillia, a Flair Pupeteer, a Flair SE5a and a scratch
>build Fokker D-VIII) the price makes it an interesting proposition.
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Doug
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
>     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
>       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)612-2600 ext: 325
>                                   |    djones@iex.iex.com
>                                   |    uunet!iex!djones
Doug-

I haven't seen a Sterling Spitfire, but have seen several other Sterling
fun-scale airplanes. They tend to be on the heavy side with planked
fuse and stout construction. I would think the OS .48 Surpass would be
a little weak for this airplane. 63" warbird on the heavy side says
to me "strong 2-stroke .60" or "4-stroke .70-.80". You could probably
get it to fly with the .48, but I doubt if you'd be happy with the
performance.

Duncan R. McCoy
Boulder City, NV

-- 
Duncan R. McCoy
Boulder City, NV
bs464@cleveland.freenet.edu
---------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: swhite@convex.com (Steve Whiteside)
Subject: FliteKote<=>MonoKote?
Summary: GentleLady covering. Use what I have in hand?
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 19:32:00 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Keywords: Glider,Covering
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I have just finished up the framework on my GentleLady. I started 
looking into covering materials and realized I had some FliteKote
left over from another project.  The GentleLady instruction sheet
recommends SuperMonoKote as a covering material. 

1) Is FliteKote and MonoKote about the same when it comes to shrink
ability and weight?

2) I haven't seen any SuperMonoKote around. Is this something that
went the way of the dodo bird? Is MonoKote really SuperMonoKote in
disguise?


Any other recommendations about covering the 'Lady?

                |  The Gentle Lady is almost finished!     
\             __|__             /   It's my first RC plane.
 \______________|______________/    I can't wait to fly it!
                O
Steven Whiteside








Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: MonoKote/SuperMonoKote (was FliteKote<=>MonoKote?)
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 21:15:09 GMT

In article <1784@necis.UUCP> rbono@necis.UUCP (Rich) writes:
>In article <swhite.725657520@convex.com>, swhite@convex.com (Steve Whiteside) wrote:

>  Q) What is the difference between MonoKote and SuperMonoKote?

>  I have a few rolls of each, and I can't really tell any difference in them.
>Is this just a marketing term?  Maybe they changed the name at one point and
>I have some 'old' rolls?  Or is it that some colors are called 'Super' and
>others are simply the 'regular' stuff?

I believe Monokote was the original covering way back in time. I seem
to recall someone telling me that the adhesive was pressure-sensitive,
i.e. it was more like FasCal and not an iron-on.

Super Monokote was the improved product that came out some time after-
wards. 

Perhaps the name reverted to Monokote after Great Planes bought out 
Top Flite. (Speculation here - I've never bought full rolls of the stuff
so I don't know for sure). 



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: rbono@necis.UUCP (Rich)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Questions about batteries & mufflers.
Date: 31 Dec 92 21:11:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: still seeking it

In article <C04rCB.2K2@csn.org>, eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik) wrote:
> Happy New Year!
> 
> First let me say thanks to everyone in this newsgroup. I have always
> received quality answers to my questions. So, here are a couple more
> questions:
> 
> 1) I need a second battery pack for my Airtronics receiver. I was thinking
>    I could save a few bucks by buying a battery pack and connector and
>    making one. The question is, the Airtronics Rx battery pack is 500 mAh
>    and the Tower packs are 600 mAh. Is this difference harmful?
> 
 I'll take a stab at explaining this one:

  First, the mAh ratting of a battery is basically the amount of current the
battery can supply for one hour.  So a 500 mAh battery can supply 500 mA for
one hour (or 0.5 amps for one hour.  One milli-Ampere is 0.001 Ampere).  A
600 mAh battery should be able to supply 600 mA for one hour.  This is an
increase in capacity of about 20 percent.
  Assume that you can get about ten 15 minute flights from your current 500 mAh
battery.  This would indicate that your flight pack (receiver plus servo's)
draws about 50 mA.  500 / 10 = 50.

  So, a 600 mAh pack should provide:

        600 / 50 = 12

 about 12 flights.

  So, the 600 mAh pack has the capacity to provide more power, or the same
power over a longer period of time.

  I hope this helps (and that I didn't make any mathmatical errors)!


> 2) I have an old K&B 40 Torpedo. It runs great and is in great shape. I want
>    to put it on my CGM Eagle II. Unfortunately, the Torpedo is from the days
>    before mufflers. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket muffler? 
>    Hopefully one that will extend outside the engine compartment?
> 

  Sorry, I can't help with this one!


 Rich
-- 
 /**************************************************************************\
 * Rich Bono                     IMRICH         UUCP:rbono@necis.ma.nec.com * 
 * (508) 635-6300                 NM1D          AMPR: nm1d@nm1d.nh.usa.noam * 
 \**************************************************************************/
From: linkosal@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Tapio Linkosalo)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Flight Simulators & ducted fans
Date: 21 Dec 92 10:19:55 GMT
Organization: University of Helsinki
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


 I just saw the DB:s flight simulator a week ago. It was
superb! Much better than I thought it would be. Should be very
useful for a casual flier like me.

Where would be the cheapest place to buy it? American Hobby
Center sells it for about $110, or program only for $40. Any
place cheaper? Also, as mailing to Europe is quite expensive,
I could just buy the program, and build the controller from an
old 4-channel transmitter (I mean, are the pots in Tx equal to
PC-joysticks?)

Does Midwest still make DF-unit for .049? At what price? Or
does someone have drawings for such unit?

-Tapio Linkosalo-
univ. of Helsinki, Finland
internet: linkosalo@cc.helsinki.fi
From: ed@kronos.com (Ed Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: First Trainer Questions
Date: 21 Dec 92 19:31:05 GMT
Organization: Kronos Inc. / Waltham, MA
Disclaimer: This posting is a personal opinion and not that of Kronos Inc.

Opinion seems pretty much split on the OS-40 FP ($70) vs. OS-46 SF ($140)
for a first .40 size trainer plane.  I suggest the OS-40 FP.  This engine
is plenty strong enough for a .40 size trainer, and is 1/2 the price.

Please consider that your first plane will crash.  The engine is going to
eat dirt.  Why risk a nice engine on it?  Your trainer plane and engine are
for learning how to fly.  Included in this is learning how to set the fuel
mixture on the engine.  Many beginners run their engines too lean and wreck
them.  Why risk a nice engine?  

-Ed
From: john.jackson@synapse.org (John Jackson) 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: LOOKING FOR SILVER SEVEN
Date: 30 Dec 92 07:50:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: SYNAPSE BBS - GATINEAU, QUEBEC - 819-561-4321
Reply-To: john.jackson@synapse.org (John Jackson) 

I have an Ace Silver Seven Transmitter with Plastic Gimbals.  I would 
like to upgrade to metal gimbals.

Therefore, I am looking to purchase a used Silver Seven transmitter 
with metal gimbals (two stick).  Frequency or condition of batteries 
unimportant.  Cheap!

---
 . RoseReader 1.70 P002739: Psychoceramics: The study of crackpots.
From: lew@4ccvw101.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Parts wanted for 1966 Fox 40BB restoration
Date: 23 Dec 92 17:42:03 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw101.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <1992Dec23.235208.1@wombat.newcastle.edu.au> asrgf@wombat.newcastle.edu.au writes:
>
> I have most of an old Fox 40BB ("Golden forty") dating from the mid 60's.
>This motor was incredibly powerful in it's day and I used it in a series of
>very fast open combat models. Over the years I have "lost" the piston and
>liner, con rod and "wrist pin". I am interested in restoring this motor.
>My question is this, are these parts likely to be still available? I understand
>that Duke Fox died recently. From what I have been told he was the type of
>person who would have been interested in helping achieve this restoration. Has
>Fox Engines changed? Does anyone know their address or fax number? Please post
>any replies.

Here is the address and phone number for Fox Mfg.

Fox Mfg.
5305 Towson Ave.
Fort Smith, Arkansa 72901
Phone: (501) 646-1656

You may want to see if they have parts for this motor. I would be very 
surprise if they even stock parts that far back. What would be helpful
if you have part numbers for the items needed to restore the motor back
to working order. 

I am curious about the construction of this motor since I don't believe
I ever seen one of these. I have a Fox Stunt .40 from the late 60's to
early 70's vintage. I am wondering if it stunt well for CL. I have seen
these motors in swap meets and in an older hobby shop but I have never
seen a ball bearing .40 from that era or before. 

There will be an International Model Show in Pasadena, Calif. in mid
January. In this show is a swap meet section where vendors and collectors
sell antique and uncommon motors from here and abroad. There may be 
parts available for your .40BB. If you are interested, I can spread
the word to some of the engine collectors in my club.


Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com
From: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Light Covering...
Date: 24 Dec 92 07:05:49 GMT
Organization: Rhein-Neckar-Informationsdienst Viernheim

dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch) writes:

>Does anyone have any experience building very light HL gliders?
>(6 oz. RC)

No, sorry.

>I was wondering what kind of covering material to use?  I realize
>that Monokote is too heavy.  I have used some stuff called
>Flite Cote.  It was light, but not very strong.

>Would tissue and dope be advised?  Any other advice?

No !! Don't use tissue like silk or nylon if you'd like to get a light
covering. It needs vast amounts of paint to get enough tension and
that will make the covering much heavier than any film covering.

Your only chance is to find a light film. I usually use Solarfilm by
robbe for such purposes. But I think that it's too expensive when it
reached USA....

Bye,
  Torsten.

-- 
  +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
  |   Torsten Leibold, Konrad-Adenauer-Allee 105, 6806 Viernheim, Germany   |
  |  UUCP: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org    ..!unido!orfeo!rnihd!rnivh!torsten  |
  +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mark@alf.cooper.edu (Mark_Balch)
Subject: Charging Individual NiCd's
Keywords: charge nicd
Organization: The Cooper Union ( NY, NY )
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 15:45:55 GMT

I'm on my way to my first RC airplane flight in May when the next semester
is over - my PT40 is taking shape rather nicely and the vacation gives me
much more time to build than I had during the last semester.  I'd like to
use my own NiCd packs for flying and here's what I'm looking to for peak
performance: 4 individual AA size NiCd's that are individually connected to
a 9 pin D-sub connector.  This will allow me to treat each cell individually
for charging/maintenance purposes and I can also gang them together as a
pack for flying.

If I don't care about quick charging, say a charge time of 10-20 hours,
how much current should I give to each NiCd and at what voltages can
I expect each NiCd to be at before and after charging?  Remember, I'm
talking about one NiCd now, not any combination of more than one.  If I
provide this trickle charge to the NiCd, can it overcharge?  Do I have 
to deep discharge each NiCd cell before such a charge - or can I just 
charge it no matter what it's current charge already is?  (Would it hurt
to put a full NiCd under a 10 hour trickle charge?)

I will appreciate any help from those who have worked with NiCd charging.

Thanks!
Mark Balch
mark@green.cooper.edu (during school - after Jan 18th)
mark@alf.cooper.edu (during holiday - before Jan 18th)

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: petera@bcars630.UUCP (Peter Ashwood-Smith)
Subject: Re: DECATHLON
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 13:57:00 GMT

In article <jrp.724915085@wombaj.kowari.cpsg.com.au>, jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman) writes:
|> Hi there,
|> One observation that should be added about decathlons is that they do not 
|> recover from spins well - that is they have to be flown out, they wont recover
|> with just neutralization of controls - you need to give opposite rudder etc
|> to get them out. This is true of full size as well as models I am told.
|> I once saw a guy bury two in one day (neither of them his own) despite being
|> told about this attribute  in advance!
|> jp

   Come on now, what is so special about a Decatholon? Even a pattern plane does not normally need to be flown out of a spin it is typically enough to relax controls and the spin stops and a slow spiral results. My guess is that the guys that are piling in Decatholons would also pile in a Cub. Besides the Decatholon has some dehedral does it not?

   Peter
From: chenq@hal.COM (QiFan Chen)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Glue selection
Date: 29 Dec 92 21:07:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HaL Computer Systems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hal2001.hal.com

I am just wondering if wood glues used by carpenters  
sold in hardware shops can be used on RC planes. Can 
they take engine's vibrations? Are they less stronger
than CA or Epoxy? 

I do want to build RC planes and prefer not to take 
CA/Epoxy fumes.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: eeak@teal.csn.org (Ed Krejcik)
Subject: Questions about batteries & mufflers.
Keywords: Rx batteries, muffler
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 15:36:11 GMT

Happy New Year!

First let me say thanks to everyone in this newsgroup. I have always
received quality answers to my questions. So, here are a couple more
questions:

1) I need a second battery pack for my Airtronics receiver. I was thinking
   I could save a few bucks by buying a battery pack and connector and
   making one. The question is, the Airtronics Rx battery pack is 500 mAh
   and the Tower packs are 600 mAh. Is this difference harmful?

2) I have an old K&B 40 Torpedo. It runs great and is in great shape. I want
   to put it on my CGM Eagle II. Unfortunately, the Torpedo is from the days
   before mufflers. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket muffler? 
   Hopefully one that will extend outside the engine compartment?

Thanks in advance!
-- 
*** Ed Krejcik                  +--------------------------------------+  *** 
*** Precision Visuals, Inc.     | "Don`t be outraged, be outrageous!!" |  *** 
*** Boulder, CO                 +--------------------------------------+  ***
*** 303/530-9000      Email to: eeak@pvi.com          Disclaimer: mine... ***
From: lew@4ccvw16.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: rumor: Lubbock may NOT be 93 Nats site..
Date: 24 Dec 92 00:32:44 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw16.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

ILLINOIS!!! Tell me it ain't so Larry! Tell me it ain't so!

Well, I better go check this out!


Merry Christmas guys! It's been a pleasure netting with you guys. See you next
year and happy flying!


Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: MonoKote/SuperMonoKote (was FliteKote<=>MonoKote?)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 12:15:04 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

I'm not exactly sure of the answer, but maybe I can shed some light...

>  Q) What is the difference between MonoKote and SuperMonoKote?

 > I have a few rolls of each, and I can't really tell any difference in them.
>Is this just a marketing term?  Maybe they changed the name at one point and
>I have some 'old' rolls?  Or is it that some colors are called 'Super' and
>others are simply the 'regular' stuff?

Some years ago, Top Flite had the original Monokote, and improved it,
renaming it Super Monokote.  This remained the same for at least 10
years.  Last year, Great Planes bought out Top Flite, and in the process
has been revamping several lines of products, including the covering.

When they created a new look for the advertisements and the insert
for the package, I believe they took off the 'Super' to be in line
with what most people know it as - "MonoKote".  Would someone out
there actualy like to venture a call to Great Planes and check this
out??? :-)

   -swb-   (Steve Bixby - sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Thursday, 31 Dec 1992 12:25:29 MST
From: <ICJPS@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject:    Great Planes P-51 & 4-stroke

I'm building my first warbird, a Great Planes P-51.  I have built the wing
with retracts.
I was wondering if anyone else in the group had built this kit with
retracts, and what engine you used?  Comments on 48 Surpass vs. 70
Surpass vs. 2-stroke (ST 45K) would be appreciated.


Thanks!