HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: milliganc@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: OOPS on RE: skitows & Flat-heads
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 21:23:08 GMT

OOOPS!  I made a boo-boo.  In a previous posting I innnadvertantly wrote that
the first Corvette engine was the Blue Streak Six.  The Blue *Streak* Six was
made by Riley of England.  It used a hemi head(as did the fours) and dual
UNDER-head cams, side draft carbs, etc. etc. blab blab.......  The Corvette
engine was the Blue FLAME Six.  But you all knew that anyway.
                        Happy Motoring,
				KILROY

ps: there was a Riley in the US who made OHV conversions for Model A & B(4
cylender '32) engine.  Curiously, the design of thhe head was VERY similar.
Any old timers know more?
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: jyoung@Cadence.COM (John Young)
Subject: Re: 1978 T/A questions
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:25:58 GMT

limiting factors are the 3.08 std rear
>axle and Goodyear P235 60 R15 STs and intake manifold which favors low end
Yea,I was wondering if I'd see this^.I got a 71 formula 400 bird,
with a 400 tranny,It's fast as f&%k off the line,but could use
more of a freeway gear in it,I mean it still get's on it good
when your doing about 60 or 70,and I can even get 2nd gear
chirps out of it(which is ok for an automatic).
But it ain't going to do no 180mph.
Do either of you got any suggestions for re-gearing it.(labor tricks,
gear size,etc)?
	and remember:I'd rather push a pontiac than drive a ford!

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: feghali@ece.scarolina.edu (Chad Fegali)
Subject: testing
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Distribution: alt
Date: 17 Nov 92 03:15:30 GMT


Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: cs386122@ucs.usl.edu (Mejia Pablo J.)
Subject: Sad story....(sniff)
Organization: Univ. of Southwestern La., Lafayette
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 02:48:21 GMT

  I finally found a buyer for my car...I needed to sell it to pay tuition/
  books/ect for next year because I lost my financial aid.

  1966 Dodge Charger (1st year made)

  Engine:

   383 H.P. (ported Magnum heads put on with thick Felpro gaskets to 
             reduce compression to 9.5 while increasing airflow)
            Crane Stage 2 cam...Edelbrok manifold..Holley 750 vac. sec.
            hp oil pump...8 quart pan...Crane aluminum adjustible valve
            train....stock pistons/rods/crank (why fuck with perfection?)..
            DC springs and retaining gear..MSD ignition in combo with
            home-done elec ingintion conversion....electric fuel pump...
            dual oil filters...lots of other stuff.

   727 Tourqueflite with external filter and HD cooler and special 1st
            gear kit from Hamburger MoParts.

   3.23 posi with DC SuperStock springs.


   Totally restored on inside and outside....unless you raised the hood
   (or jumped on the rear bumper) you would swear it was stock.

   Ran mid 11's

   I got $5500 for it, but now I'm stuck with my pontiac 1000 parts chaser
   (paid $200 for it 2 years ago).

   Snifff....sob sob sob.....





   I WANT MY CAR BACK!!!!!!!!
From: georgek@gvlf1-h.gvl.unisys.com (George Kulp)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Chrysler motor mounts
Date: 19 Nov 92 18:48:12 GMT
Organization: Paramax Systems Corporation, Paoli PA

Keywords: 
I am currently in need of a set of front motor mounts for
my 1964 Chrysler New Yorker, 413 engine.  All the usual parts
houses no longer list these mounts.  The most I have found out
so far is that these mounts are peculiar to 1964 Chryslers only;
they were not used on Plymouths or Dodges.
The mounts attach to the engine with 3 bolts and attach to the
frame by 1 stud which rises vertically from the frame.
Assuming a reasonable price, I would prefer new mounts.
However, used parts in working order certainly better than the
broken mounts I now have.
The other thought that comes to mind is having the mounts
remanufactured; i.e., replacing the rubber bushings.

Any help or other thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks,
George
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: pattons@CS.ColoState.EDU (samuel patton)
Subject: 1978 T/A questions
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 09:27:59 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Computer Science Department

I have a 1978 Trans Am with the W72 Pontiac 400 and M21 tranny.  It is 
relatively stock but does have headers on it already.

Has anyone out there rebuilt a 400 for high performance using unleaded gas?
If so any tips on good books concerning the engine and how to tackle this 
task would be great... 


I also need to rehang the drivers side door since it sags.  How do you go about
doing this???? Is it hard or not... I would like to avoid paying someone to 
do this...


Sam


-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
|  Sam Patton -=>  pattons@beethoven.cs.colostate.edu |                     |
|                  spatton@lamar.colostate.edu        |     Emotion 13      |
|_____________________________________________________|_____________________|
From: 2huxsilent@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: '87 Trans Am Modifications
Date: 23 Nov 92 13:35:11 CST
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services



is the 'gross' rating.  Somewhere in the early 70's the rating system for
motors changed over to the 'net' system.  This is why those 60's muscle cars
seem to have been so much more powerfull than modern sports cars.

The difference between 'gross' and 'net' ratings is in how the engine is
tested.  For a 'gross' rating the engine is tested without any accessories
(i.e. alternator, a/c, etc) or exhaust piping (including the muffler).  For a
'net' rating the engine is tested as it would be in the vehicle with all of
those power sapping accessories running.

Now to get back to subject of '87 T/A mods.  There is an old issue of Hot Rod
that features engine swaps in a variety of vehicles including the F-body.  It
included a list of all the parts required to make a big block fit in the third
generation F-body's.  I can't remember the exact issue right now.  I have the
issue at home and will post the date when I have a chance.

remember
 difference between 'gross' and 'net' was in how the engine was tested. or,
a/c
alternat
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 14:28:04 EST
From: <OJW100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: previous post

please disregard the previous post, sorry
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: 1978 T/A questions
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 20:00:25 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.162558.26608@Cadence.COM>, jyoung@Cadence.COM (John Young) writes:
|> limiting factors are the 3.08 std rear
|> >axle and Goodyear P235 60 R15 STs and intake manifold which favors low end
|> Yea,I was wondering if I'd see this^.I got a 71 formula 400 bird,
|> with a 400 tranny,It's fast as f&%k off the line,but could use
|> more of a freeway gear in it,I mean it still get's on it good
|> when your doing about 60 or 70,and I can even get 2nd gear
|> chirps out of it(which is ok for an automatic).
|> But it ain't going to do no 180mph.
|> Do either of you got any suggestions for re-gearing it.(labor tricks,
|> gear size,etc)?
|> 	and remember:I'd rather push a pontiac than drive a ford!
|> 
Unfortunately, regearing the internals of a TH350 or TH400 is going to be
very expensive custom work. I have read about some methods but they involve
internal welding and special parts. Not a typical DIY garage type job. So
quality control is dependent on the experience of the builder.

I think the best way to get that monster launch yet still retain some sanity
on the highway is by swapping the torque converter.

There were some posts in rec.autos.tech before this group about a unit that
was similar to today's lock-up type units. The diff though was that the stall
speed was switchable from very high to a very low rpm for cruising. But even
that one (from the 1960's vintage) wasnt made for TH350/TH400's

The technology is available and the need is there I suspect somewhere there
is a company that makes such a beast for GM tranny's. 

If I had a manual I'd probably get one of those Nash 5 speeds, that way you
can get the gearing you want with overdrive for cruising.  A three speed 
auto is inherently at a disadvantage at it can only reach the engine's optimal
power output 3 times whereas a 4 speed gets there 4 times and five's get there
a 5th time. But since you can configure the automatic to shift perfectly every
time that helps a little, plus I dont know anybody that can shift a manual in
0.1 secs like automatics can. Typical average driver shifts in about 0.3 sec if
they're good but 0.7 secs if they suck. Guaranteed you wont lose a race because
of a blown shift with an auto.

Since I drive this on the street daily my best bet is to maximize traction
ie.. wider tires with more grip and a positraction rear end, but if I can 
locate a switchable converter I am definitely getting it.


$0.02
Ericy
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: 1978 T/A questions
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:11:17 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Low gear sets are available for TH350 and TH400 trannies. They cost a bit -
about $300 - up, pretty pricey. One thing I've wondered about is whether
there was a range of ratios used and if there are OEM pieces lower than
"standard". My thinking is that truck automatics might be set up with
the lowest 1st gear set. Anybody know?
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
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Organization: Sophomore, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 15:28:09 -0500 
From: Brett Earl Forejt <bf0w+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Torque measurement??????

Okay, here it is. If you are wondering i got these conversion factors
from my hewlett packard calculator.

1 nm    = .737562149277 ft-lb
1 ft-lb = 1.35581794833

These are a tad bit ridiculus on the exactness, but i thought that you
all could just round off to where you like.

B.
From: joes@sw.stratus.com (Joseph Spriano)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: 351Modified in a ford F150
Date: 19 Nov 92 12:17:39 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: billtcat.cac.stratus.com



 Hi I am considering buying a Ford F150 flat bed truck (ie bed rusted long ago)
It is a 79 4x4 with a 351 modified (stock ford). The truck has 150000 on it
The 4x4 is decent w/ manual hubs. Auto trans.  Bucket Seats (after market)
Frame is solid. Minor surface rust on door and roof. Needs tires,front breaks. 

What I want to know what should I look at for engine wear. i am use to the Chvy
305,350 engine and know they run great for many years if maintained well.

Does anyone know about the 351M from ford? and approx how much this truck is
worth. i plan on doing a custom job on it. How hard is it to get parts for this
beast? Is it something commonly found in a junkyard?

Thanx Joe


ps I plan on deciding this weekend so please write soon.
-- 
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Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Torque measurement??????
From: vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu)
Date: 19 Nov 92 03:35:03 PST
Organization: California State University, Lost Angels
Keywords: HELP!

In article <cgranfel.722114754@vipunen.hut.fi> cgranfel@lesti.hut.fi (Peter"Pede" Granfelt) writes:
>Yeah, U guessed it..... I need some help!
>I'm a big fan of American hot rods, but I'm somewhat confused...
>In America power is measured in HP, just like in Europe.
>But when it comes to torque, the problems amass....
>Now my question is: How many newtonmetres (Nm) is one lb-ft??????



   1 N-m = .7375622 lb-ft       |       1 lb-ft = 1.355818 N-m


I *think*. I just worked the conversions out with some silly unix
tools that I had available, to the highest precision I could. Maybe
someone could verify'em? 

And, don't complain about this system, we got it from europe afterall.
It is sort-of a british curse. :) You guys have meters, decimiters,
centimiters, we have pounds, dynes, slugs, feet, and other such
colorful (and very difficult to work with) units. 


-- 
               |
____________  -+-__      ____________ 
\_____     /   |/_ \     \     _____/           Valentin Popescu
 \_____    \_____/  \____/     ____/  vpopesc@{calstatela.edu,csula.bitnet}
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov
Subject: re: Car Storage
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory, Argonne, Illinois
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 15:35:04 GMT

In article <1992Nov14.211516.12061@ultb.isc.rit.edu> scl7375@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:

>I'm interested in how to store a car too, I think that because the winter
>months are coming up, it would be appropriate to post your ideas here...

Well, what I usually do, is a) I make sure it's in a garage
with some sort of cover (blankets work) to keep the dust
and misc. scratches off.  b) I completely change oil, 
c) I fog the engine down - that's where you have the engine
running with the air cleaner off, and proceed to pour a quart
of oil down the carb's throught till it bogs down and dies.
This fills the cylinders with oil, and prevents possible 
corrosion and such.  You need to dump gas down the throught
in the spring when you start it though, and it smokes like
a sonufabitch.

Jim

Organization: Sophomore, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 01:54:32 -0500 
From: Brett Earl Forejt <bf0w+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Building/hopping up my 91 Mustang 5.0 LX

>First off, *great* group !!  I'm kind of a novice in this area and am >excited
>about getting to read & learn from all you experienced folks out there.  I
>recently bought my first muscle car, a '91 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible and I
>now have 'the need for speed' !  There's nothing like being on an open
>stretch
 
>of highway, nothing (or noone) in sight, and opening it up...  At any
rate, >my
 
>first tune-up included adding Spitfire(?) spark plugs, advancing the timing
>(per the tech at Dugan Mustang), and replacing the stock air filter with a
>K&N racing filter (1,000,000 mile warranty - I liked that one!).  I have >been
>told that the 'next' addition I need to do is replacing my mufflers with
>Flowmaster mufflers then replacing my 'cables & pulleys' with the
>non-parasitic
>type pulleys.  As I previously mentioned, I am a novice (software
engineer, >NOT*mechanical* engineer) so any/all input & suggestions will
be >appreciated.
>Thanks !
 
>-Chris
 
>p.s.  I forgot to mention that I have a manual transmission - is there
such >a thing as a "shift kit" for a Mustang ?  Again, thanks !

Well Chris,  keep reading and studying about your mustang, and i suggest
subscribing to a magazine, called "Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords".  It is
the best mustang mag that i have come across, because it seems to be
oriented towards the "Novice" and not the one who knows every spec on
his/her car.

from all that i have read, and read on this board, the pullies on your
car will make at most a minimal improvement, from earlier posts.  There
are serious side effects.  You will get smaller pullies which in effect
will turn all the engine accessories (air pump, condenser, alternator,
water pump, etc)
at a slower rate, which supposedly frees horse power for the road.

Now in regards to a shift kit, yes there is, but it is only for
automatics. Since you have a five-speed, you are set. A shift kit in
effect makes an auto trans shift harder, and faster.

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Welding different metals for headers?
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 20:01:30 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 One potential problem is poor adhesion/penetration to the stainless. The
MIG operates (usually) in the stick-and-break mode, which tends to give a
high deposition rate and low penetration. Stainless may have much different 
characteristics from the adjacent mild steel. I guess you'd have to 
experiment here, see whether you can get good penetration on one without
blowing through the other. An arrangement with the mild steel sleeved over
the stainless should be better than a butt weld. Then almost any amount of
penetration should be good enough.

 The weld will not be corrosion-resistant. I don't think anyone makes
stainless MIG wire, though I've been alleged to have been wrong before.
This is one reason why MIGs are not used to weld stainless - no point 
in using stainless ifthe weld's going to rot.

 If the collector is going to be (semi)permanent, consider having it 
made of stainless too, as well as the reducer and a pipe stub, so the
whole header assembly sleeves into the exhaust. This will eliminate pesky
flange loosening/gasket blowout/exhaust leakage problems. Get the whole thing
TIG'ed up in stainless.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: ausdal@ece.scarolina.edu (Thi Van Ausdal)
Subject: Re: Welding different metals for headers?
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Date: 19 Nov 92 12:56:49 GMT

jmiller@brew.asteroids (Jeff J. Miller) writes:

>I've been planing to make some custom headers using stainless
>pipes going into a regular steel collector.  I plan to use a
>MIG to weld everything together but I wonder what kind of problems
>I might expect by using the two different types of metals.

>Anybody have any experience with this?

>Jeff Miller                 Network Systems Corporation
>Internetwork Group          7600 Boone Avenue North
>jmiller@network.com         Minneapolis MN 55428   (612)424-4888

I welded a bit with a MIG last year at a race car shop (a SMALL race 
car shop you've never heard of) and from what I could gather, you
can weld mild steel on mild steel, you can weld stainless to stainless
but at a higher heat setting.  You can do it fine, but I don't know 
how it'll last.  Is this for the street? Are you going to drag races?
If you're racing, it'll be okay because you'll be tech-ing the car 
every weekend anyway.  It's more of a hassle for a daily commuter
to crawl under and check it periodically.  I recommend practicing on
some scrap tubes of stainless and regular steel, and see what heat 
setting works best.  You ought to do well with it.

What about the flange-to-pipes connection?  If you were going to use
mild steel there too, you're in for more fun.  Of course, if you can 
get stainless tubing, you can find some 3/8" plate to cut a flange 
from, too.  What application is this for?  Headers by Ed (a lot of 
different apps. for Detroit iron; others, too) or Stahl Headers (many
US, imports; top quality stuff) could supply you with a precut flange,
although I don't remember if either have stainless.   

Good luck.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: ausdal@ece.scarolina.edu (Thi Van Ausdal)
Subject: Re: Good performace mods
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Date: 16 Nov 92 01:58:50 GMT

>In article <1dnd7hINNfc9@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, damong@pacman.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile) writes:
>> Hey all, I was wondering if you can help me slect some perfomance mods
>> for my "project". It is a '74 Fiat X1/9 1290 cc, mid engine, rear drive.
>> 
>> I was thinking of perhaps a new camshaft (~$300) or maybe a performace
>> milled head (~$LOT) or maybe even a stroker kit to go to 1.8 (~$1300).
>> Perhaps also a lightened flywheel, or dual carbs (but for hard street
>> driving, would a rejet be better for a dual 32mm Webber ?)
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks all,
>> Damon
>> 

	I like the 1.8 with a cam.  First of all, I'm assuming that you
are going to drive your Italian colt somewhere other than at the Lone Pine
Time Trials or the Chimney Rock Hillclimb. As you may have heard before, 
(sing with me, Detroiters) "There's no substitute for cubic inches", except 
cubic dollars.  Build the 1.8 and while you have everything apart and are 
redoing the valve seats, drop in a hotter cam and springs.  A larger dis-
placement engine will "tame" a cam.  The increased midrange and low-end 
torque makes the car more tractable in the city since you won't have to 
downshift quite as much.  So you'll enjoy your investment every time you
drive the car, not just on twisty roads as you wind the tach past 7000 rpm...

	The milled head (which I assume is a stock head shaved for more 
compression, port and polish, etc.) is more of a high-rpm thing.  Same for
the Weber DCOE's or equivalent I envision when you say dual carbs.  Twin
carbs (from my experience with BMW 2002's, CS's and the like) are great when
they're spot on, eternal PMS when they're not.  If you haven't synchronized,
jetted, and prayed to them correctly when you put them in, you'll curse them
a lot.  But when they're right...

	A lightened flywheel is a neat idea that goes well with other mods.   
By itself, it's an iffy thing as far as I'm concerned.  My little dusty
project (time, such a valuable commodity) is a BMW 2002 with 9.3:1 CR, big
valves, an Iskenderian camshaft and dual valvesprings, big clutch, and 
DCOE's.  The car also has vented 320i brakes, 320i rear drums (soon) and
if I ever hit the lottery I'll put in the OD 5-speed I've got sitting 
around. By the way, suspension and wheel/tire upgrades are suggested with 
serious mods.  The X1/9 has decent brakes for the speeds the stock car sees,
but you can never have too much brake.  
	I found that out coming off turn 4 
at Charlotte Motor Speedway at about 105-110 and braking to make the turn
into the road course in the infield, which is a 55-60 mph turn just past 
the start/stop line.  After a day and a half of fast laps at a drivers'
school I had the thrill of fading my brakes and just driving past the turn.
I could have done without the experience.
	Happy motoring, and let me know what you decide upon...
 
					T. VanAusdal
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 13:52:39 EST
From: <LLB117@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: vette wheels

my dad is after a set of gold-plated stock corvette wheels for his black '87.
i think his best price is 2000 to plate the ones he has or 3000 for a plated se
t. anyone know of a better price? thanks.