HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Flushing before dot-5
Date: 6 Nov 92 14:31:23 GMT
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research

When changing to dot-5 brake fluid, is there another chemical 
to flush/clean the system or should one 'bleed' the dot-3 stuff 
out?

rick
------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /

Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance 
to persons living or dead is just luck. May cause drowsiness. 
Alcohol may intensify this effect. Pay no attention to the 
man behind the curtain. 
------------------------------------------------------------
From: berger@atropa (Mike Berger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: "official" shop manuals vs. Chilton's
Date: 10 Nov 92 04:14:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: ux1.BxHFrq.It7
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

ldillard@digi.lonestar.org (Tom Dillard) writes:
>I have the shop manual for my '87 Ford Taurus.  I have compared a Chilton's
>manual with it and noticed the Chilton's had some of the _exact_ same 
>diagrams as was in Ford's.  They were arranged differently.  As it turned
>out the Chilton's manual was set up for doing a particular job.  With the
>Ford, you would have to flip back and forth to a couple of differnt sections.

>In the end, though, I think you get more information with the factory book.
*----
A LOT more in my experience.  And where there are changes in production,
they are generally noted in the factory manual and not mentioned at all
in the third-party manuals.  One advantage of the third-party manuals is
that they often explain how to do a particular job using standard tools,
while the factory shop manual may refer to manufacturer-specific special
tools.  But the diagnostics in my Ford Aerostar shop manual, for example,
are far more detailed than those in the third party editions.  And every
detail, from the cruise control to the seat belt warning buzzer, is
covered.  The third party manuals tend to concentrate on engine and
drive train components that are common to more than one model.
--
	Mike Berger
	Internet    berger@atropa.stat.uiuc.edu
From: cs101ta3@dcl-nxt21.cso.uiuc.edu (Robert Gjertsen)
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 89 Ford Taurus chronic stalling problem
Date: 11 Nov 92 15:20:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.

In article <1992Nov11.044445.29082@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar) writes:
>In article <Nov10.211038.76057@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> bh437292@lance.colostate.edu writes:
>>I have an 89 3.0 V6 Ford Taurus, and I am wondering
>>if other owners out there have had a similar experience.
>>The car starts fine, but it has a stalling problem that no one
>>seems to be able to diagnose.  I did a complete tune up, then
>
>etc...
>
>>When the technicians hooked it up to the diagnostic machine
>>all fuel pressure coming out of the fuel pump tested fine,
>>but the buzz coming out of there was a little louder than ususal.
>>Everything in the car tests at the regular settings, because
>>when I go to the shop, I cannot recreate the conditions under
>>which my car fails and the mechanics say they cannot help on
>>intermittent problems unless the problem manifests itself when
>>they are testing it.
>>My questions are, what is the best way to diagnose such an intermittent
>>problem, and if it is not possible to diagnose it for sure has
>>anyone else had a similar experience (especially on a Taurus),
>>and is it a good idea to go ahead and replace the fuel pump
>>and take a risk that the problem would be solved (keep in mind
>>that that gamble is going to be costly) ???
>>
>>Thanks for all your opinions,
>>
>>Basil 
>>
>
>
>For 1992(?) Ford has a data capture tool which plugs into the computer.  During
>driving, when the driver experiences "the problem," he/she activates the tool
>and it captures sensor readings, computer outputs, etc.  The stored data is
>then used by an expert system to diagnose the problem.
>
>I have no experience with this system -- I only saw a demo tape of it.  At
>least one dealer in my area shelled out kilodollars to purchase this system.
>
>Bohdan Bodnar
>

   Yep the only problem is that it has limited inputs. Make sure that that 
techy sets it up to monitor on the fuel flow and injector duration. they can
then calculate the actual amount of fuel going through each injector. Then
they will probably confirm injector vapor lock and replace your injectors
with the longer ones that don't do this. If your dealer does not have this
STAR tester go to another dealership. They are not serious about fixing
customer problems. Also make sure they have SBD (service bay diagnostics)
to properly decode the information and get the appropriate bulletins which
are stored online for the diagnosis phase.

Robert 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliezer@leland.Stanford.EDU (David Eliezer)
Subject: Accord crankshaft pulley
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 06:28:06 GMT

Newsgroups: etc.tech.autos
Subject: Accord cranckshaft pulley
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Distribution: usa
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Keywords: 

This is a call for help from anyone who might be knowledgeable
about 1980 honda accords with A/C and power steering.  Recently
my water pump died. I loosened all the bolts holding it on, only
to discover that the pump has a piece  which sticks under the timing
chain cover, and is held in place by a gasket.  I can't remove it
without taking the timing chain cover off.  To do this, I need to
remove the crankshaft pulley.  Since I have A/C and power steering,
the pulley is a triple pulley type, and there is *no* cutout in the
pulley, which means I can't hold it in place while cranking on the
bolt which holds it on .  Can anyone recommend a way to get
this thing off with the engine still in the car?  Is there any way
to keep the crankshaft from turning while I torque the bolt? using
the breaks or putting it in gear doesn't seem to do it, as there is
alot of give when I turn the bolt (anyone know why this is?).  Any
help would be greatly appreciated.

Send replies to eliezer@bogart.stanford.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Subject: Re: Sudden and Drastic Drop in Gas Mileage
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 11:31:07 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

In article <97166@netnews.upenn.edu> george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:
>i know the experts will disagree, but i have seen a dramatic
>decrease in milage since the nov.1 switch to gasahol.
>I noticed the milage change _before_ i realised they switched

I have a friend who is a Chem E specalizing in petrol, and he says that it
really screws mileage as well.  Can't remember the exact reasons, though.
Part of is that the car isn't tuned as well for the gasahol, and doesn't
run as well with it.

He recommends getting the car re-timed for whatever gas you're using, though.

Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Add new Horn/Toyota truck
Date: 10 Nov 92 01:04:11 GMT
Reply-To: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: badseed.eng.sun.com

Hey Folks,

I've been getting really fed up with the horn in my truck which makes the
standard(please, you're anoying me) sound.  So, I decided to replace it with
a non-obnoxious but louder horn.  So I take out the old one, and just to test
it out I put a piece of wire in each of the plugs for the old horn and attatch
them to the new horn(temp test). I hit the horn and everything sounds ok.  So,
I go about wiring the thing in, and when I hook up the final wire, it gives a
spark and a little pop. I blew the fuse.  So, I replaced the fuse and tried
again.  Blew it again. So, not remembering much from that one class in EE 
from colledge, I gave up.   Could someone help me out here.  How should I
wire this thing in?  

Thanks much,
Keith

P.S.  When I tested the horn out I swapped wires between the terminals to see
if there was a difference, and there was none.
From: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: cleaning/painting steel wheels
Date: 9 Nov 1992 18:40:43 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


I bought a set of used steel wheels for mounting snow tires.
I want to get suggestions from the net as to how I can
clean and paint the wheels.

will wire brushing it then spraying a can of steel wheels color
spray paint be sufficient ?

thanks in advance
jerry

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: maika@bnr.ca (Jan Maika)
Subject: GM FWD Power Steering Racks
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 13:52:33 GMT

I have seem several articles complaining about GM power steering in their
front wheel drives so I thought I would comment I my experiences. I own
a 1983 OLDs Fierenza "J" car. During the first six months of owning this
vehicle I had major power steering leaks. It turned out the the seals were
bad in the rack and pinion power steering and the entire unit had to be
replaced. By the time I had 90 Kms (55 Kmiles) I had the famous GM tight
steering in the morning. The indication that something was seriously 
wrong was that the power steering fluid suffered from the "Black Plague" 
and the power steering pump squealed for 10-20 seconds after the 
car was started. Being out of warranty I didn't do anything until my wife
had a minor biff as a result of the steering. At this point I was forced to 
get a used unit from the bone-yard for $150 rather than pay $450 for a new one.
This unit was installed in 1989 and still appears to be OK. I check regularly
for the "Black Plague" and have not seen it. After contacting GM and complaining
that bad power steering racks were a safety related item I was told that they
did have a hidden warranty on them. If I would have complained louder that
the first replacement unit was bad at 55 Kmiles I could have got another one
out of them. In Canada there is a 80 Km/50Kmile hidden warranty on these racks.

The only thing that will fix a bad GM rack is to replace it. My understanding
of the problem is that the rubber "O" rings break down causing the alumium
piston to seize up inside the rack bore, hence the "Black Plague" is actually
broken down "O" ring circulating in the fluid.

Maybe some of those GM guys who frequent rec.autos.tech can comment on this 
common GM problem. This problem is known to haunt GM front wheel drive cars
from 1982 to at least 1987.

Jan S. Maika                                   Bell-Northern Research
BITNET:    maika@bnr.ca                        VOICE:  (613) 763-7769
UUCP:      uunet!bnrgate!bcars438!maika        FAX:    (613) 763-2626
LAND:      P.O. Box 3511, Station C, Ottawa, Canada, K1Y 4H7
From: paul@sdd.hp.com (Paul K Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 13 Nov 92 19:02:48 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Corporate Engineering
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

<Excuse me, but I own a '72, and they have very little smog equipment. I think
<that you may be refering to the '73, which was the first year to use emmision
<control carbs, and EGR. 
<
<Yes, I am biased toward the '72, but the above statements are correct, and most
<of the books that I have read on the history of the Z indicate that the '72 was/is the best of the early Zs.
<
I agree.  Earlier I pointed out the '73, but I was mistaken, I meant the
'72.

paul
From: rhorner@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Robert Horner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help with rough idle
Date: 10 Nov 1992 17:15:34 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

I am having a problem with my '88 Toyota Corolla (2-barrel carb, 4-cylinder,
California emission controls).

Here are the symptoms:
    The engine runs fine at fast idle. When it warms up and the choke
    valve opens, the engine drops into a VERY rough idle. If I take off
    the air cleaner while this is happening, I can hear a loud misfiring
    sound out of the carb throat. Running up the RPM makes the problem go
    away.
    When I'm driving, the engine has virtually no power at low RPM. If
    I'm driving at 50-60 mph in 4th or 5th gear the engine shakes and
    surges badly unless I downshift to get the RPMs up.

What I've tried:
    The spark plugs and ignition wires are fine. The fuel pump seems to be
    okay. I've applied vacuum directly to the EGR valve and the engine
    didn't die but it sure complained. I can hear a sound like a vacuum leak
    coming from the vicinity of the carb but I can't localize it. I've
    shot carb cleaner down the carb throat. I can't get to the fuel cut
    solenoid without taking off the carb and I don't really want to do that
    unless I have no other choice.

Any suggestions? I've never worked on a car that had so many emission controls
and I sure hate doing it. Please e-mail any responses. Thanks for your help.

Robert
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Saturn Polymer Side Panels - How tough ??
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1992 13:23:31 -0500

 > I am considering buying a Saturn SL2. It will be my first
 > car and what
 > worries me is it's having polymer side panels. I had been
 > to a dealership
 
 
The saturn is a fine car--be sure to get abs...
 
 > last week and the salesman kicked the punched the side
 > panels to show how
 > tough they were :-) But does anybody know how they performed
 > in impact
 > tests ? One possible problem is that with metal body cars
 > even if the car
 > is dented, it can still be driven around and aesthetics
 > apart, this is not
 > a big issue really. But with a polymer body, will the side
 > panels have to
 > be replaced in case of any accidents ? It seems to be an
 > expensive solution.
 > Is any one aware of the insurance companies reaction to
 > replacing the entire
 > saide panel ? I'll appreciate any quick responses on this
 > as I am considering
 
Most people demand that their new cars be fixed after minor dents. 
 that costs mucho bucks.  Saturns do not dent.  Minor events will  
have no effect upon the body panels of the car so...less damage, 
lower claims, lower rates.  The car has a full steel space frame, 
so it is as safe as any japanese car in a accident, but a vw would 
be safer...GM has about 10 years experience with space frames and 
panels, and som japanese are copying as well...honda crx I think 
for one...The saturn is truly a good car.  If the modern body 
construction bothers you too much good cars in the same class with 
archaic body construction include the escort, the tracer, the nissan 
sentra, the corolla, the geo, and believe it or not in real world 
terms in dc at least you can get a taurus with power everything, 
abs, dual air bags and stereo for 13,999.99.
 
btw...the saturn is the 3rd highest rated car in terms of customer 
satisfaction...lexus-#1, mercedes benz#2, saturn #3.  Think there 
is some reason for that??  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Oil Filter valve (was:Dodge Caravan engine noise)
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 06:32:03 GMT

david.boyle (dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com) wrote:
: > First, get rid of the cheap oil filter without a anti drain-back valve.
: > Pay the bucks & buy OEM or better.  Most likely, the oil is all draining out of
: > the filter overnight, and the pump has to fill it back up before starting on the 
: > engine.
: 
: I have been buying Purolator, and Frams filters on sale for the last year
: or two.  How can I tell if these filters have an anti drain-back valve?
: Do the filters with this valve specifically say so on the package? Thanks.
: 								Dave

A friend of mine bought a bunch of filters from different makers a few years
ago.  AT THAT TIME, there was NO anti drain-back valve in a FRAM.  In fact,
they look distinctly cheaply made.  It might not be a bad idea to cut open
an old one (Yes, messy, but informative) and let us know.  From what he found,
the OEM filters were, as a rule, better constructed and looked to have better
elements.

I really have a problem understanding why someone would use a filter that 
costs $2.50 and wonder about it, when you can buy the manufacturer's for
$4.00 - $5.00???

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 14:34:50 EST
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?

What are hydraulic valve adjuster in a DOHC engine?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Stiff Clutch Pedal Problem
Keywords: Honda Civic 84, Stiff Clutch Pedal
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:08:11 GMT

In article <1992Nov4.204625.12752@ncsu.edu> aras@eceris.ece.ncsu.edu (Caglan M. Aras) writes:
>Hi,
>
>I have a 1984 Honda Civic Hatchback with a five speed manual stick. I
>had my clutch pad, and main bearing replaced about 2000miles ago, the
>cable was not changed. The car itself is at 100K at this moment. Before
>I had this done, the clutch had become VERY stiff. It was so hard to
>press that the assembly holding the pedals was bent.
>
>
>Is there anyone who can offer some wisdom? Will replacing or greasing
>the clutch cable solve this? 
>
Yep. That fixed the same problem on my '81.

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: Norbert.E.Nez@dartmouth.edu (Norbert E. Nez)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Nissan 200sx battery warning problem
Date: 12 Nov 92 21:35:40 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

Hi,
  I have a 1980 200sx, 2.0 liter, FI.  I have a problem with the little
dash multi-warning gizmo.  It keeps flashing that I need to check my
battery fluid level and I can't make it stop.  The thing is, there is
some sort of electrical connection to a floater that sits on one of the
refill cells on the battery.  As the fluid level goes down, I think the
floater is supposed to move down and act as a potentiometer for the
electrical connector, so when the floater reaches a certain resistance
level, it activates the signal to flash the dash warning.  Of course
that's only speculation since the damn floater thing is missing!  I got
the car with the thing already missing and a different type of battery
had been installed in place of the old one and there is now only an
exposed lead where the floater thing was supposed to be.  I've checked
the thing with a voltmeter and sure enough there is some slight current
running through it and I've bought a small potentiometer and hooked it
between ground and the current and tried all sorts of settings with
little luck.  I may need an exact value for the resistance.
Or maybe I'm totally wrong and it doesn't work that way at all.  So if
anyone has any sort of knowledge on the matter, PLEASE respond cause
I've grown tired of the steady flashing on my dash!
   I don't normally have time to read all posts to this newsgroup so
would you please E-MAIL all responses to :
metal@Dartmouth.edu

THANKS!
  --Rob

-------------------
| NO SIG REQUIRED |
-------------------
Organization: Doctoral student, History, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Mon,  9 Nov 1992 21:11:22 -0500 
From: "Daniel U. Holbrook" <dh3q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Taurus engine out of control

Hello - 

I have a peculiar problem, or rather my car does.  It is a 1986 Taurus,
with the 2.5 l 4-cylinder engine.  It has about 110,000 miles on it now,
and despite the bad rep this drivetrain has, has been a really good car.
 Now, the problem:

Recently (last few months now), without warning, and according to no
particular pattern, the engine will rev itself up to 4000 rpm or so and
stay there.  Sometimes it does this on starting, whether warm or cold,
sometimes (thankfully less often) when underway.  Sometimes turning it
off and restarting cures it, sometimes not.  It is not the cruise
control, and I have checked all vacuum hoses, sensor wires, and checked
for air leaks in the intake system.  The local Ford service guy told me
that they had a problem like this some time ago with this engine, and
that the problem was some multiple relay box that sits on top of the
radiator. I checked it, and there was nothing outwardly wrong, like
loose connections.  He explained nothing further, other than suggesting
that I bring it in for a test of the ECU.  My questions:

Does anyone have any other ideas?  My impression is if it is something
electrical, like a relay, wouldn't it be unlikely to be an intermittent
problem?  Sometimes the car goes weeks without acting up.  Maybe an
exorcist would help?  Just another case of the innate perversity of
inanimate objects?

Thanks,

Dan

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Toyota bulb-out warning light
Summary: Tail light warning on all the time
Keywords: Toyota warning lights
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 16:52:21 GMT

Our great new news reader has twice omitted the contents of my
posting: Let's give it one more try...

A friend has an '87 Camry Deluxe. The warning light which means a tail
light is bad now comes on, even when the tail lights aren't turned on,
the bulbs are OK, and the ground circuit is good. (I had him check the
voltage from the ground side of the bulbs to chassis with the lights
on and it was essentially zero.)
Before I dig into this,
(a) Is this a common problem with a well known fix?
(b) If not, are there at least suggestions as to where to start?
(c) Even if net.wisdom doesn't know how to fix it, is there any reason
to fear this is the first sign of a worse problem? E.g. are these
lights run by a computer system which, if it fails completely, can
take out the instruments too? (If not, he is willing to live with the
traditional fix of black tape over the offending warning light :^)
Thanks,
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech