HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sysnet@wombat.newcastle.edu.au (David Morrison)
Subject: Tyre pressure vs circumference vs speedo accuracy!
Organization: University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:33:13 GMT

I have observed that my speedo (and odometer) are wrong by about 3%.  I 
normally keep the tyres 3-4 psi greater than recommended (for good reasons)
and wondered whether this may have explained the error. 

To test this theory, I decided to measure the "rolling circumference" of a 
tyre.  I put a mark on the tyre and a corresponding mark on the ground. I then
rolled the car backwards until the tyre mark was again on the ground, making 
sure that the tyre had moved exactly one revolution. Measuring the distance 
was straighforward although exacting, to measure the corresponding parts of 
the marks.

I then reduced the pressure and repeated the exercise.

The results:

For a cold 175/70 (from memory) tyre on 13 inch rims at 33 psi, I measured 68
7/8 inches.  At 29 psi, I measured 68 3/4 inches. 

This is a total difference of only 1/8 inch, about 0.2%.  It in no way 
explains the error in the speedo.

Some questions:

1. Is there a theoretical method of determining the circumference for a given 
tyre pressure?  Or at least the difference in circumference for a difference 
in pressure?

2. Is there a flaw in my method?  I wondered whether the tyre's natural
stiffness due to being cold (15 degrees C) might have prevented the 
circumference changing much with the change of pressure.  Would I have been 
better to do it while the tyre was hot?

3. Any other thoughts?
-- 
David Morrison, Manager, Networks and Comms, Uni of Newcastle, Australia
sysnet@cc.newcastle.edu.au or (VAX PSI) psi%0505249626002::sysnet
Phone: +61 49 215397
Organization: Masters student, Information Networking Institute, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 12:45:18 -0400 
From: Yi Sun <ys0n+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Help, Peugeot stalling problem

I have a '84 Peugeot 505GL, inline 4, auto.  The car has trouble in
starting.  I have to rev the engine at high rpm for a minute or so
before I can start to drive.  Otherwise it will stall.  The problem
seems to be weather sensitive.  The warmer the temperature, the longer I
have to keep reving the engine.

Initially I thought the idle speed might be too low(900, this is normal
rpm as I checked owner's manual),  so I changed rpm to 1200 and the
problem seems to go away, but only temporarily.  so I adjust idle to
1500 and again, it worked fine for a week then the problem merges again.

Now, when I start the car up, the idle is at 1000.  I will rev the
engine at about 3000 for a minute or two.  When the idle speed reaches
1500, I start to drive.  Otherwise, when I stop for lights the car will
stall.

I had the car in repair shop for several times.  The problem still
persists.  A major tune-up did not seem to help either.

Any help is appreciated.

Also, is it normal to have idle at 1500 at park position, and only 950
at drive position?

Is there any place I can get a repair manual?

thanx, yi
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fratus@niaid.nih.gov (john fratus)
Subject: Re: '89 TOYOTA TOILET with carb problem
Keywords: toyota carb stall
Organization: National Institutes of Health
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 02:37:19 GMT

dcb0@gte.com (Daniel Bazinet) writes:


>	Hi,
>	  Anyone encounter a toyota tercel with a severe hesitation
>	problem from a cold start, even on temperate days?  It
>	disappears after about 10 minutes of drivng.  Mileage is 35
>	mpg, and acceleration is good after initial 10 minutes.
>	I suspect a bad O-ring on Acc. pump.  Anybody got experience 
>	with this carb / rebuilding ?
>					Thanks,
>					   Dan

Yeah, my '87 does the same thing. I've been told that gunk builds up on the
valves in the Tercel Engine and causes this problem. Since I know nothing
about engines, I can't say whether this makes any sense at all.

Anyone else?
--
John Fratus   (john@niaid.nih.gov)
From: c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mysterious Sunbird Problem...Advice?
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:32:26 GMT
Organization: Delco Electronics Corp.

In article <BtLHFK.1CD@acsu.buffalo.edu> v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson) writes:
>My problem was a shorted hot lead wire to the coil, when the car 
>was leaning just right at about the right speed the wire would
>swing around and short out, cutting the ignition for a split
>second...took *forever* to figure out...I fairly certain thats
>your problem.

Back maybe 10 years agi, we had this in my wife's 1974 Oldsmobile
Delta 88... It was giving us problems due to a broken contact there
also.

Finally, a fellow driving a pickup truck stopped behind us when
we were unable to start, listened in for like 5 seconds, immediately
went for the hood, took off the coil connector (which was broken and
made intermediate contact), told us the address of the nearest 
parts store, part name/number and price, and went on his way. 

He was right. The car was fine after that. 

Spiros




-- 
Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Technology, Delco Electronics       striantafyll@kosds1.gm.hac.com
GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:11809 rec.autos:20877
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Fuel Separator
Date: 27 Aug 92 16:11:03 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering


:The inventor is currently testing it on his 2.6l 4cyl Mitsubishi Magna (Sigma)
:and claims 50% less fuel consumption.
            ^^^
you had me going for a second.  Why cant these types learn to make up
more realistic claims?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Paint Overspray Removal
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 14:44:58 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Steel wool or a soft scrub sponge (the ones with the nylon scrubber
bottom) may do the job. Neither will scratch glass -if- there is no
grit around. However they will drag existing grit around.

 Paint remover will, well, remove paint. More than desired if you're
unlucky. Wiping it onto the glass with a paper towel and then using the
soft scrub sponge may be the best combo.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: scott@psy.uwa.oz.au (Scott Fisher)
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Organization: University of Western Australia
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 01:48:50 GMT

ingram@sequent.com (Bill Ingram) writes:

> John, the chief of police for the Portland Or. police  department
> did tell me to get a Club after the recent thieft and recovery of
> my 1978 "beater" Toyota Corolla Wagon w/411k miles on it. 
> The kids used a blank key to unlock the door and start the car.
> The plastic steering wheel has a metal internal frame in it.
> When recovered, the blank key was still in the ignition! 
> The police chief said that 99% of all Japanese cars older than 1980
> that are stolen are recovered, and that the club would stop close
> to 100% of these from being stolen in the first place.
> Logic?
> Bill

One thing I suppose in favour of CLUB like devices is that many offer
a $500-1000 rebate/payment of excess etc if your car is stolen with 
one fitted.  If you really don't want your car (stolen by driving
away), make sure it's locked, has a club on the wheel, a high
quality alarm that disables the car, is is not parked in a bad place and you 
have the lead from the coil in your back pocket, and is filthy dirty with
mud and other crud all over it :-).

That's about all you can do. 
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [scott@psy.uwa.oz.au]  PH: Aus [61] Perth (09) Local (380 3272).                
                                                             _--_|\       N
Department of Psychology                                    /      \    W + E
University of Western Australia.                 Perth -->  *_.--._/      S
Nedlands, 6009.  PERTH, W.A.                                      v       

Joy is a Jaguar XJ-6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: xxj8754@ultb.isc.rit.edu (X.X. Jin )
Subject: EFFECT OF Timing Belt CHANGE ?!
Followup-To: rec.autos rec.autos.tech
Summary: advice, timing belt after effect
Originator: xxj8754@ultb
Keywords: advice, timing belt after effect
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: rec.autos rec.autos.tech
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:26:29 GMT

	I just had the timing belt changed for my 86 Chevy Nova at
an authorized Chevrolet dealer. It has around 100,000 miles on it.
But after that, I experienced something unusual:

	When the car goes around 15-40 mph, the engine temperature
meter rises very quickly to be almost above horizontal.(It was
almost twice as much as before the timing belt change). Meanwhile,
the engine becomes quite loud, I can even hear the noisy sound of
belt(I dunno if it is the timing belt). When the car was at
55mph, the temperature will drop to normal.

	I talked to the dealer afterwards. He said he can check it
@ $42/hr. if something else besides the timing belt is going
wrong.-- toooo expensive for me :)

	CAN SOMEONE WHO CHANGED THE TIMING BELT (OR WHO KNOWS ABOUT
THIS) TELL ME if this may be caused by the wrong timing, or
whatever? If so, I will let the dealer fix it, since it has already
cost me around $200.

	Thanx in advance.

-- Xia
xxj3910@cs.rit.edu
(716)273-0236
Rochester, NY
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End)
Subject: Re: Clutch adjustment
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 05:12:42 GMT

I has the opposite problem, and have heard a rumor that an adjustment
can be done instead of replacing a clutch when it begins to back off a
considerable distance before engaging. Any truth to this or does it
belong in one of the alt.folklore newsgroups ?

Thanks much
E-mail me:

Jim
jgraham@sunflower.bio.indiana.edu  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: CV joints
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 10:04:14 GMT

Han Lin Goh (hgoh@oac.hsc.uth.tmc.edu) wrote:
: How can you tell when CV joints are worn and need to be replaced?
: My Datsun 210's front right suspension makes noise when taking bumps.
: How much does it cost in general?
: Are CV joints the same as ball joints?

It sounds like you have ball joint problems, rather than CV problems.

The ball joints form the (almost) vertical axis around which your wheel
assembly rotates while steering.  To check if they are shot, jack that
corner of the car up, grasp the tire firmly, and try to find where there
is freeplay.  There should be none.  If it moves when you jerk on the top,
the top one's bad.  If it moves from side to side (rotationally), then the
tie-rod end is bad.  Bottom is similar to top, but lower :)

CV joints, on the other hand, can be thought of as more-or-less a universal
joint.  They are on the driveshafts.  If you have a worn one, it'll probably
sound like a helecopter is on top of your car, mostly when turning.

If you're hearing klunks while going over bumps, I'd bet on a ball joint, 
and I've replaced lowers to uppers in about a 4:1 ratio.

Have fun!
--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Can oxygen gauge meter fuel pressure?
Date: 31 Aug 92 12:21:31 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <31160133@hpspkla.spk.hp.com>
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:

>
>The question is:  Is there any problem using an oxygen gauge to measure
>the pressure of diesel fuel?  Also, on the face of the gauge is  the
>statement, "Use no oil."  Does this refer to the gears, pivots, etc.
>inside the gauge, that you should not oil it?  Or does it mean that you
>should not use the gauge to meter the pressure of oil (due to material
>limitations).
>
What they are implying is don't use oil in the gauge if it is to be used with b
ottled Oxygen.  When Oxygen and a Hydrocarbon (oil) get together, you have an e
xplosion.  The gauge you have probably came off of a regulator used on an O2 bo
ttle.  This is one reason why regulator threads are different for various appl
ications.  The wrong regulator on a bottle of O2 and there's a good chanse you
won't be on the Net again! For your application, it should work fine.  Remembe
r that oil under that high of pressure can also be dangerous.  Good luck, Spenc
er
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: miles@ms.uky.edu (Stephen D. Grant)
Subject: 84 BMW 318i Fuse Box
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 00:42:43 GMT
Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences

I just recently purchased an 84 318i. Unfortunately, I don't have an owner's
manual. I'm planning on ordering one from the Local BMW dealership.
In the meantime, can anyone tell me what fuses do what?

Any help would be useful. When I got the car, the speedometer wasn't working.
I noticed it go up to 20 once, and hasn't worked since. I'm hoping that it
is either a blown fuse or a minor electrical problem. The previous owner
may have disconnected a wire when he removed his stereo system.

Once again, thanks for any ideas.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: help! no heat in 1986 nova?
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 13:13:50 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <16857192E.TDOPER35@ysub.ysu.edu> TDOPER35@ysub.ysu.edu (Dogger) writes:
>I have no heat in my 86 nova. i have changed thermostat, flushed system and
>changed radiator cap. what else can i do?thanks.
> 
(1) See if the heater hoses are still there or if somebody bypassed them.
    Reconnect the hot water supply and find out that the heater core was
    leaking.

(2) See if there is a vacuum valve in the heater lines. See if it is 
    getting vacuum when you select heat.



-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Oil smoke on startup
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 06:52:19 GMT

steven.t.heinsius (stevenh@cbnewsk.cb.att.com) wrote:
: its time for valve guide seals.
: get your spring compressor and some compressed air
: and away you go.
: 
: not to bad a job.
: Steve
: ps don't let the garage sell you a new motor--if you change
: your oil you will be fine with just the seals.kk

Or, if you don't have compressed air, nice soft rope can be put in through
the spark-plug hole, and compressed with the piston.  Does just as good
of a job, and you don't have to worry about losing air pressure & dropping
a valve.

Once you get the valve covers off, it's about a 15 minute job.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com


From: frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 05:30:38 GMT
Subject: Re: dirty spark plugs
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


*I got some problem with my 82 Civic. The car runs well but the spark plug of
*4th cylinder gets dirty really quickly. The new plug got black and greasy only
*after 10 days when it was put on. I checked the compression, all cylinders were
*good, about 200 psi. Spark plug cable was also checked, no breakage was found.

Does the car burn any oil?  If so the valve guide seal could be bad.
You say that the plug wire was checked?  How so?  Did you use an ohm 
meter?  Resistor wires should be about 5000 ohms / foot.   You can
get a cheap multi meter from Radio Shack.  If you don't have and can't
borrow one I recommend getting one.

Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard   
1212 Valley House Drive     (707) 794-4168 work  (707) 538-3693 home
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG Seca 750 XT350 IT175 DoD#7566 I'm the NRA.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: louise@cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy)
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs??
Reply-To: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy) 
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology 
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:26:20 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.032653.553@posms.cactus.org> rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof) writes:
>In article <fagundes.715201152@pv1649.vincent.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:
>>  Is there a way to clean spark plugs??  My plugs are getting some crap
>>all over then about every 3 months;  this is probably because my car
>>is also leaking a LOT of oil :(
>>[.....]
>
>Yes, but it requires a spark plug sandblaster, compressed air, and the
>plug must have the center electrode filed flat, and regapped.

What sort of file should be used?



-- Louise Penberthy

Louise Penberthy                |  "Remember:  friendship is sweeter even
College of Computing/ Georgia   |   than love, and a damn sight less
Tech/ Atlanta, GA 30332         |   chancey."
louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu     |        -- Leonard, "Pajama Tops"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Production Delay (Was: Re: reliable cars
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 21:55:32 -0500

 DT> >Don't forget the hard starting in winter as you sit there shivering
 DT> >while the glow plugs make enough heat to get the thing going... :-(
 DT> 
 DT> Well, yes you do have to wait 5 to 10 seconds, but then it will start
 DT> immediately and run.  It seems a lot of folks with gas cars need to
 DT> crank and fiddle with the accelerator for as much or more time to get
 DT> things going in cold weather.

The problems related to starting Diesels in cold weather are not related to time
required to bring the glow plugs up to operating temperature (which generally
must be done for cold starts in summer as well as winter). One problem is that
the current draw of the glow plugs combined with increased starter current draw
due to high engine compression necessitate a much more powerful (larger and more
$) battery than needed for a gas car. Also, the higher jell point of the fuel,
exacerbated by typical diesel fuel contaminants, make starting at very low
temperatures very marginal.

One advantage of the Diesel in extreme low temperature environments is that once
you get it started, it is feasible to let it run all night long (assuming
adequate security and compliant neighbors!).
From: adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP (Adam Mottershead)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ooops.
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 92 19:12:38 EDT
News-Software: FSUUCP 1.2 R4
X-Mailer: DigiQR 5.38b
Reply-To: adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP (Adam Mottershead)
Distribution: world
Organization: The All Ter Nah Tive Un Der Groend

Forgive my intermixing of postings.  My machine has gone totally whacko!

--
Adam Mottershead                      |
39 Havelock Drive                     |
Brampton, Ontario                     |             adammot@ltrnativ.UUCP
Canada, L6W 4K8                       |
+1 416 454 8597                       |
                                                                          --
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: GM truck radios
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:39:04 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.211451.4058@gtephx.UUCP>, georgej@gtephx.UUCP (Jefferson George) writes:
> 
>>Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
>>Subject: Chevy truck stereo
>>Keywords: chevy
>>Message-ID: <BsyEvn.ss@andy.bgsu.edu>
>>Date: 14 Aug 92 03:26:10 GMT
>>Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.
>>Lines: 7
> 
>>A friend of mine was at a car show a while back and he has a buddy who owns a 91or 92 Chevy truck.
>>  This guy stopped by who told them that he could make his 
>>stereo sound louder for five bucks (factory, digital, cassette).  They said
>>cool and he got in.  He pressed several buttons got out and wouldn't tell them  what he did but 
> the stereo was louder now at full volume.  Does anyone know 
>>what kind of trick he used?  I would love to know it.   
>>       Please E-MAIL me if you know what to do!   Thanks,
>                                                        Joe
> 
> here is the info!.  I have been told that this no longer works on 92 models
> 
> OR 1987+ GM trucks
> 
> 
> To turn on the amplifier
> ------------------------
>    1) turn on the radio
>    2) push the FADE-button arrow pointing DOWN and hold it
>    3) push the VOLUME-button on the LEFT side (decrease volume)
>    4) when this is done, an LD will light up above the word STEREO
> 
> To turn on Dolby Noise Reduction
> --------------------------------
>    1) turn on the radio
>    2) push the FADE-button arrow pointing UP and hold it
>    3) push the VOLUME-button on the RIGHT side (increase volume)
>    4) when this is done, DNR will appear below the word STEREO
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jefferson George                                    
> AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona 
> Inet: gtephx!georgej@enuucp.eas.asu.edu   
> UUCP: {ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!georgej 
I tried this on my '91 K1500 last night. It didn't work. But this didn't
surprise me. The truck has an equalizer and tape player though too.
From: shaig@Think.COM (Shai Guday)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: OIL: SYNTH -> NATURAL
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:12:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: early-bi.1888unINNgfa
Distribution: world
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.think.com

I was told that it is not "healthy" to switch from a synthetic
engine oil to a non-synthetic one. Is there any basis for this
claim or is this just a legend propogated by the synthetic oil
delaers?