HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jal41820@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Smiley)
Subject: Re: The Makeup of A Snake's Housing...
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 22:38:06 GMT

pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander) writes:
:)And heat loss; all the warm air goes stright up through those terrible nose
:)abrading commercial screen wire tops.  

:)Aquariums larger than a 20 gallon long aquarium are getting too tall, too 
:)narrow, and too breakable.  I don't know how the prices compare.  IMHO, if 
:)you want a cage with more than 3 square feet of floor, you don't want an 
:)aquarium.  You want a wooden or fiberglass cage.

Of course, turning the aquarium on its side solves both of these problems.
There are hinged screens available to cover various sized aquariums that are
turned over on its side.

-- 
        Josh Laff              #     #      
email to: smiley@uiuc.edu     _       _     Hello! I am a signature virus!  
      (217) 384-6249         |#\_____/#|    Join the fun and copy mo*#(*&^!>.
                              \#######/     
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: s0499528@let.rug.nl (R. Dijkhuis)
Subject: Re: Gratuitous Kills
Organization: Faculteit der Letteren, Rijksuniversiteit Groningen, NL
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 12:51:13 GMT

In article <=xfrb1#@lynx.unm.edu> smeagol@carina.unm.edu (Karl P.) writes:
>From: smeagol@carina.unm.edu (Karl P.)
>Subject: Gratuitous Kills
>Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 01:15:16 GMT
>
>      Anyone know why a full grown bullsnake might make a gratuitous kill?
> I fed him a large mouse which he had some difficulty killing.  He never
> actually got a good bite in, instead he pinned down and crushed it.  Then
> he never went back to it.  
>      Curious.
>
>      Any ideas of why he may have done this or what it might mean?
>
>
>						---Reverend Smeagol--

A friend of mine who has a rat snake has seen his snake do this. His 
explanation, as I recall, was that the snake wasn't actually hungry, but 
because the mouse was moving around the terrarium and got in the snake's 
way, the snake killed it out of pure annoyance.

This snake also had this thing about white mice, BTW. He just didn't want to 
eat them. Has anybody got any idea why?

Reinder
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Cage flooring
Date: 29 Dec 92 09:06:45 GMT
Organization: Department of Music, UCDavis


 I use Astroturf and "cage carpets" (made by ZooMed) on my corn snake
now... The problems I have with these are:
 
  1. Astroturf "sheds" around the edges. I bet these bits of plastic
 are probably not the best for a snake to ingest either.

  2. A pain in the tush to clean. I have to do mine by hand, since 
 neither are recomended for machine washing. 

  3. Non-absorbent. When my python urinates, she urinates a LOT. If
   I'm not around to notice, she has to basically sit in her own pee
   for hours. This, IMHO, is gross.

  4. For under-cage heaters, poor heat-dispersal. The snake almost
   might as well sit on the bare hot glass. 

 I heard the same story about a snake eating a towel. I bet same snake
 might eat astroturf if it had mouse/rat smell that thickly on it. The
 thing is, to not give the snake food-scented products. And towels can
 be picked up fairly cheap at a discount store or even a secondhand
 store. I got mine for free when my sister unloaded a bunch on us.

 -Otter not Nathan still


Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: marianne@stevie.bsd.uchicago.edu (Marianne Guntow)
Subject: Seeking Michael Herman
Reply-To: marianne@stevie.bsd.uchicago.edu (Marianne Guntow)
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 22:20:57 GMT

Sorry about this...

Mail to your return address bounced...

>    ----- Transcript of session follows -----
> 550 <mikeh@bunt.valhalla>... Host unknown: Address family not supported  
> by protocol family

Please e-mail me again...
______________________________________________________________________
Marianne Guntow          		      gun6@midway.uchicago.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Leapard geckoes
X-Xxdate: Tue, 29 Dec 92 20:23:25 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16
Organization: NCSA
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 20:28:53 GMT
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7660FDDC70114C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>



Howdy,

I've had a female Leopard gecko for 18 months now.  She is healthy and
sheds normally.  When shedding, she always eats her skin.  I feed her
pinkies and crickets.

Recently, I bought her a companion.  It is a juvenile (male?).  I keep
the juvenile in a smaller aquarium inside a larger aquarium with the
female.  The juvenile has gone through two shed cycles so far, and each
time he has had troubles.  First, he does not eat his skin.  He simply
loses it in sheets as he rubs next to bark and rocks in the tank.  I am
concerned about him because it seems that he has trouble getting the skin
off and that he does not eat it as he sheds.

Could this be a sign of a vitamin deficiency?  He only eats crickets at
this time as pinkies are too large for him.  I have tried keeping his
tank a bit more humid, and I soak him to help with the skin.  However,
I'd like to address the problem and not merely the symptoms.

I'd appreciate any help and advice.

Many thanks, igor

_____
NCSA-UIUC,  e:igorl@uiuc.edu,  p:(217) 244-5606
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: simonb@extro.ucc.su.OZ.AU (Simon Blomberg)
Subject: Re: Red Eyed Tree Frogs
Organization: Sydney University Computing Service, Sydney, NSW, Australia
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 23:49:37 GMT

tenny@euclid.uucp (Nathan Tenny) writes:

>In article <725515631.AA00000@therose.pdx.com> Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Jack Honeycutt) writes:
>>Anyone working with Red Eyed Tree Frogs out there?

>Not yet, but I'd like to know all about those who are.

>I'd like to get a tree frog project going eventually, but not until I'm a
>little more stably settled (read: out of school) and have a little more time
>and money (read: out of school).  Besides, I want to be *real* sure I know
>what I'm doing with amphibians before messing with uncommon species---so
>it's leopard frogs and White's for a few years yet.

>How is the status of captive husbandry of red-eyes?  I've seen them on the
>Glades list, but the text implied they were wild-caught.  (For that matter,
>how are they doing in the wild?)

>	NT

Forgive my ignorance, but _what_ are red-eyed tree frogs (Genus, species:
Family) ? rec.pets.herp is an international community y'know! :-)

Simon.


-- 
Simon Blomberg                                   simonb@extro.ucc.su.OZ.AU
School of Biol. Sciences, A08
University of Sydney           We demand the right to stop to look even at
NSW   2006  Australia          lizards, who are nobody's property. -JBS Haldane 
From: ruska@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Dave Ruska)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 21:23:09 GMT
Subject: Re: The Makeup of A Snake's Housing...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp

In rec.pets.herp, aad@siemens.com (Anthony Datri) writes:

....

> >I also would recommend wood cages, and line then with plastic bathroom panel.
> 
> Sound advice no doubt, but the biggest single feature of glass aquaria is
> availability.

Agreed. For anything that fits in a 55 gallon or smaller tank, an aquarium
is the easiest solution (and possibly the cheapest if you include your time
in building your own cage). For animals needing space larger than a 55
gallon tank, it probably is best to custom build a wood cage. As mentioned
by others, big tanks tend to be too skinny (front to back) and too high
They are also hard to maintain decent air tempuratures at night.

Unless you're a good wood worker, a glass aqaurium problably makes a
better looking display setup.

For larger number of reptiles custom built wall units probably make the
best long term solution. And while you are at it you might as well
add a separate reptile room onto your house....


Dave   (daver@hpgrrd.gr.hp.com)
A dozen aquariums, a bunch of cages, and a lot of mouths to feed....

From: Dave.Hunter@f3.n243.z1.fidonet.org (Dave Hunter)
Sender: fredmail@helldisk.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Iguana info.....
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 11:27:22 -0500

 > 1)  How long should a UV emitting light be on each day?

I leave mine on for 8 - 10 hours a day. My ig has the run of the room
so he can come and go from the light as he sees fit.

 > 2)  Is there any detriment to hand feeding?

None that I know of. As long as your ig eats enough it doesn't matter
if its in a bowl or from your hand.

 > 3)  Ed seems to be a pretty picky eater

Don't even offer your ig food that does not meet the minimum nutritional
requirements. Doing so defeats the whole purpose of feeding it. Ig's are
stupid animals, they may not initially like what they are being offered,
but they will eat when they get hungry enough. A variety of wholesome food
will ensure that your ig does not become "bored" with your peace offerings.

Rgds.

 * Origin: Hawaiian Shirts 'R Us (1:243/3)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: weiner@bnlls1.nsls.bnl.gov (Gary Weiner)
Subject: Re: Gratuitous Kills
Keywords: This article printed on 100% recycled electrons
Organization: Brookhaven National Laboratory, Upton, NY 11973
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 21:35:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec23.170436.9401@Csli.Stanford.EDU> kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut) writes:
>In article <s0499528.48.0@let.rug.nl> s0499528@let.rug.nl (R.
>"Amsterdamned" Dijkhuis) writes:

>>This snake also had this thing about white mice, BTW. He just didn't want to 
>>eat them. Has anybody got any idea why?

	Beacause brown mice are more nutritious?





Gary J. Weiner  | Brookhaven National Laboratories  | "The killer awoke 
PO BOX 715      | National Synchrotron Light Source |  before dawn...
Upton,NY 11973  |    weiner@bnlls1.nsls.bnl.gov     |  he put his boots on..."
From: milligan@carson.u.washington.edu (Paula Milligan)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: Featherstonehaugh: the ballistic bunny
Date: 31 Dec 1992 00:47:57 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu
Summary: Getting Bunny to accept petting

In article <1992Dec30.195603.29673@cas.org> jac54@cas.org () writes:
>
>	Yet more bunny stories.  Featherstonehaugh is our house
>	rabbit, he's just under 4 years old and has very high
>	petting requirements.  Usually he avoids me, because I am
>	the one who does nasty things like medicate and trim
>	nails and hold him at the vets, and prefers to go to my wife
>	to have his forehead rubbed.
>	start nuzzling up to my unshod feet, which is quite pleasnt,
>	but he will not let me rub his forehead.  If I ignore him,
>	he nips the offending foot, if I try to pet him, he scoots off.
>	Does anyone have an explanation for this, or is it just the
>	old "I'm a bunny, you can't win" ?
>
>	Alec
>

When I am trying to accustom a shy bunny to petting (shy for whatever
reason), I use a sort of sign language, accompanied by the word (posed
in the form of a question), "Pets?" meaning, "would you like some      
pets?"  What I have found is that they seem to be rather threatened
(sometimes) by a hand swooping down over their heads.  My Betsy, who
must have had a terrible life before I got her, is still skittish
if I don't ask her first.  I put my hand on the floor _near_ her nose,
with my forefinger extended, as though I were pointing up and slightly    
tilted toward her, then I say, "pets?" and she runs over and lowers 
her head so I can pet her.  I think if you try this a few times, he 
will be curious about what it is you are doing, and if you keep your
finger near the floor while you stroke his nose, he will begin to  
understand that you aren't going to grab him and take him to the
vet, or do those other horrid things he doesn't like.  As long as
you never use that method to grab him, I think he will begin to 
trust you.  

I learned that, BTW, from the local HRS bunny foster mom.  She used
that method to begin a line of communication with a rescue rabbit
the previous owners had named "Rotten."  She discovered that the 
rabbit was deaf, and as soon as this method of communication was
introduced to her, she went from being a frightened, growling,
clawing bunny to a very loving one.  Sandi renamed her "Phyllis."
From: cn573@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ray Henry)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: The 12 Ferrets of Christmas
Date: 26 Dec 1992 05:54:56 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


This is a revised Christmas Carol which was begun and never
finished. I give you the first five days here. After that, you
are on your own.  :)

On the first day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
a ferret in a pine tree.

On the second day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
two ferret kisses
and a ferret in a pine tree.

On the third day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
three ferret chuckles
two ferret kisses
and a ferret in a pine tree.

On the fourth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
four dug up houseplants
          .
          .
and a ferret in a pine tree.

On the fifth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
five ferret piles
          .
          .
and a ferret in a pine tree.

On the sixth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me
??????

Ray
-- 
Ray Henry   cn573@cleveland.freenet.edu

Sometimes with Bill Shankster in piggyback.  :)
From: njl@drutx.ATT.COM (LaRocheNJ)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: Bunny Theories
Summary: Be very patient
Date: 28 Dec 92 18:57:11 GMT
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO

In article <1gqj42INNhhm@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, dugan@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Robert Francis Dugan) writes:
> 
> Well I am about typed out!  We have one big problem right now.  Ricochet and
> Marylin don't get along very well.  We adopted Rick about 2 years ago... and
> we got Marylin this past August.  Rick doesn't like Marylin at all... he 
> attacks her whenever they are both out of their cages.
> 
> As a result, we don't let them out together... it's a vicious circle.
> Any suggestions on how to get these two flop-monsters to be buddies?

You're dealing with a territorial male who is very unhappy about having
his space invaded by an outsider.  If possible (and it probably isn't),
move them to a neutral space and proceed as explained below.  If it isn't
possible, proceed as explained below, but be willing to spend more time.

Put their cages close to each other, but not so close that they can do
damage to each other.

Let them out one at a time as you are doing.

Be VERY, VERY patient.  They may someday decide to lie next to each other
in their respective cages.  At this point, move the cages close to each
other so they can touch noses through the wire.  After they have done
this without fighting for several weeks, hold Marilyn when Rick is out
and let him investigate her if he wants, but don't let her loose until
you've done this for several weeks without Rick trying to attack her in
your arms.

At that point, give Marilyn a little space near her cage, but remain with
her and don't let her leave that space.  Let Rick enter the space if he
wants to.  If there is any indication that either is thinking about
fighting, put her back in her cage, and wait until they're nosing each
other through the cages again before repeating this last step.

If and when they can tolerate each other in the small space in front of
Marilyn's cage, increase the size of the space gradually.

Don't give up.  It took my male mini-lop over a year to accept a female
Holland lop, but I was fortunate in that the female (Kirby) was much
faster than Sterling and could leave him exhausted if he chased her, so I
was able to let the two out together.  Sterling would give up the
indignity of chasing her without ever coming near, and would lie down in
the middle of the family room and glare at her.  She would wisely keep
her distance (it started at about 20 feet) but every day, she moved about
1/2-inch closer--I kid you not!--and one day, after she had crept up on
him this way to within a few inches, he reached out and began grooming
her.  A few days later, they moved into his cage.  Today, they are
inseparable.

So be patient and maybe one day...  After all, one thing in your favor is
that bunnies hate being alone.  They are incredibly social creatures and
even a cast out will remain as close to a warren as he safely can, just
for the nearness of other rabbits.

Good luck and let us know how you progress.

Nancy LaRoche (HRS)
att!drutx!njl
From: dugan@wpi.WPI.EDU (Robert Francis Dugan)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: bunnies
Date: 23 Dec 1992 23:03:20 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu

Mary C. Krembs
(Bob's finace who is telneting into his account through many machines)

Newsgroups: rec.pets,rec.pets.dogs
From: julieann@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com (Julieann Fitchwell)
Subject: Boston Terrier Stud
Organization: CMHC Systems
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 02:47:00 GMT

Whoops. I obviously did not provide enough info when I posted a request for
a Boston stud.

As I mentioned, I want to breed my 3 year old in the spring. I described her as
pet quality because she has no proven show experience or champion lineage. I
own both her sire and dam and they are both healthy, well-tempered dogs. 

While they have not been judged in obedience or other competition I am confident
that they are good pets and good examples of the breed.  All three (and all
the other puppies produced by the sire and dam) dogs fit well within the AKC 
guidelines in all aspects.

I want to breed her because I still have a substantial amount of interest in
puppies from people who were too late to get a puppy the last time -- 3 years
ago! (I also would like another Boston but don't tell my husband :*)) I also
have my vet's support on breeding her.

A few of you pretty much pointed out that if I knew what I was doing (as a
breeder) I certainly wouldn't be _posting_ for a stud. Well, let me set your
mind(s) at ease, I meant to use the response received as a starting point, not
as a closed set of options. Also, I have not been able to get involved in a
Boston Terrier club here in central ohio. I'd appreciate any info on that if
you have it too. My main hobby is horses - riding not breeding so you'll have
to excuse me (please) if I am not *up* on my doggy ediquette.

Hope this clears things up a little at least. 

JulieAnn 


-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
|                 JulieAnn C. Fitchwell                  |
| CMHC Systems, Inc. 5500 Frantz Road Dublin, Ohio 43017 |
|             INTERNET: julieann@cmhcsys.com             |
From: wd5j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: Papaya tablets for bun.
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:50:18 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <22962@drutx.ATT.COM>,
njl@drutx.ATT.COM (LaRocheNJ) writes: 
> In article <1992Dec18.202356.3261@news.cs.indiana.edu>, alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu (Amy Young Leith) writes:
>> 
>> Well, I went down to GNC in the mall, and bought some.  This was the
>> only place I could find them.  Here's what the bottle has to day:
>> 
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> These tablets are made from ripe papaya melon and papaya enzyme-papain
>> (protein digesting enzyme from papaya), protease (protein digesting
>> enzyme) and alpha-amylase (starch digesting enzyme...
>> Someone please tell me these are the right ones.
> 
> 
> Yep!  This ===>>> alpha-amylase (starch digesting enzyme
> is what you want to see.
>        
>> I paid $20 for two 600 tablet bottles.  They are supposed to be $20
>> for one bottle...
> 
> Yeah, expensive, aren't they.  But your bun is worth it.
> 
>> How many should I give him per day?  
> 
> For a dwarf, one a day; a mid-size bunny, two a day; a giant, three or
> four.  When rabbit is molting, double it.
> 
> Nancy LaRoche (HRS)
> att!drutx!njl

Nancy, or anyone else who knows--is "mylase" another (wrong) way of
saying "amylase"?  I got the CVS brand of papaya tabs last night, with
papain and mylase, though I forgot the mg conc. of each.  Please let
me know.  Also, why is amylase the preferred enzyme?  For the mucus
binding the hairballs (is that what I've read?)?  Thanks for your
reply.

Ilana Reisner
Maccabee's vet.
Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: "Amy Young Leith" <alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: Funny bunnies
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:53:56 -0500

In article <1992Dec23.211722.9925@ee.ubc.ca> jmorriso@ee.ubc.ca (John Paul Morrison) writes:
>He was exploring the apartment, and he ran in and out of the bedrooms etc.
>Then he discovered what a DOOR was. One bedroom door was closed, and bunny
>was running down the hall, full speed, cornered left and WHAM!, he bonked
>himself on the door. We cracked up at this slapstick (poor bunny...)
>
>Well, now he knows what doors are.

Dink has this problem with PEOPLE.  They move so damn often...  He has
a favorite track around the house, which is into the bedroom, around
the waterbed, back into the living room, around the christmas tree,
across the couch, and then back around the corner into the bedroom.
When he rounds this corner coming out of the bedroom, he frequently
slams right into ME walking somewhere else.  He's going like a bat out
of hell, and just BONKS into my leg, and then bounces off, shakes his
head, and takes off again. 

amy
-- 
alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu for personal mail
			    All business mail to alyoung@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Dislcaimer:I only speak for myself.  Anyone who thinks differently is a fool.
			(This means NOT my employer!!)
From: faith@amiganet.chi.il.us (Fred Drummand)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: My Ferret
Date: 24 Dec 92 00:35:07 CST
Organization: Amiga Network Information Systems



I Have Some Questions For Other Ferret Owners.

1) I Am Having a terrible time getting her to be litter trained any tips?

        I Noticed someone answerung this for someone else, but didnt get
        the full effect. Please repsond.  She Goes in all corners, and other
        misc. places.  Please Help.  Any and all clues will Be Appreciated     
   Greatly.

2) She Loves Any Cereal That is in Milk.

3) BTW - Her Name Is Booga (accasionally nicknamed Stinky)

4) When I Take her in the car, she hides under neith the seat. I Take it she is
scared.  Any Way I Can "Car Train" her?

5) Is It Harmful to them to take them out in cold weather? I Live in Chicago,
and love to take her out in the summer, but she doesnt see the sun during the
winter?!

6) She hates Baths!  Any Way to make her like them More? Cold Water? Hot?
hehe..I Have been using Luke warm-Cold water.  

Please Respond.  Any Responses in Mail Will Be appreaciated For i will get them
faster, I DOnt check the posts as often!

Thnaks

Fred Drummand
Collumbia College
Graphic Arts Major
Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: BIOSEE@UKCC.UKY.EDU (Stephanie Edelmann)
Subject: mouse question
Organization: University of Kentucky
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 18:13:31 GMT

I want to give my daughter a mouse for Christmas (from my own breeding
stock).  She wants a black mouse and that is fine. However, it seems to me
that the red-eyed mice are *much* calmer than their black-eyed siblings.
Is that generally true, or am I just imagining things?
 
Stephanie