HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Suggestion on prop for ASP .75 ?
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:07:11 GMT
Organization: Rhein-Neckar-Informationsdienst Viernheim

$stevee@sasb.byu.edu (Stephen Eldredge) writes:

>  I am interested about your 
>model though.  I have been toying with the idea of buying the Dynaflite 
>Mustang .60.  After having built one what do you think?  Would you consider 
>doing a construction review of it for us?  It's been quite a while since we 
>have seen anything really interesting lately in this group.  (I know, its 
>different for others but hey...) In particular I'm interested in the 
>configuration of the airframe.  Is it fairly accurate in scale details?  
>Flaps? Retracts? How does it build up?  Would it be possible to mount the 
>engine at an angle so that the head doesn't ruin the profile lines?  Info on 
>this kind of stuff would be great.

I'm almost about to finish the plane. So far, I'd say I'd buy it
again, although the wood quality is not the best (the exactness of the
die-cut parts also).
The kit is quite cheap and there's much work to do until you are able
to take a lokk on the raw frame. But actually that's what I wanted.
The can be completed buy any advanced builder who has already finished
some kits without worrying too much about the building instructions
(cause Dynaflite doesn't provide many :-).

I already considered writing a construction report, and sure I'll do
it (it's just that I have not so much time lately, but you'll get it).

No, the airframe is not scale at all. It has a flat bottom airfoil
with a very strong ( <- is that right ?) thickness. The thickness
decreases rapidly from the center to the tips. But this will make the
plane quite stable I guess. There's no room for flaps unless you are
willing to split the ailerons. Also, it would be quite challenging to
install retractable gear. It is intended to mount the usual steel gear
on a maple block which is connected to 3 ribs.
The plans suggest holding the wing with rubber bands (my o my), which
I do not appreciate. I installed my own construction which includes
two 6mm nylon screws holding the wing (that was not too difficult to
cope with). Ah, BTW 6mm are about 1/4".

Yes, you could install the engine upside down, so the head won't ruin
the outline, but it would make handling more complicated (the plans
doesn't mention that either) and so I installed the usual way, I won't
see much of it in the air anyway ...

>Good luck on your first flights.  (Be interested in those stories too)

ok, I'll post that too, also that will take some more time I guess.
The weather here's really unfriendly in winter.

So watch out for the construction report...

Bye,
  Torsten.

-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|       Torsten Leibold, Hard- und Software, Viernheim, West Germany.         |
|   UUCP: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org  ..!unido!cat!orfeo!rnihd!rnivh!torsten   |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:4561 pa.wanted:174
From: dsprouse@n3igw.pgh.pa.us (Dan Sprouse)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,pa.wanted
Subject: Speed Controler wanted
Keywords: RC-10
Date: 10 Nov 92 01:26:07 GMT
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Organization: Sprouse Consulting, Oakmont, Pa.


	I just bought an RC-10, but I need a Speed Controler.  I am looking
for Tekin but will consider anything. If you have one your looking to get
off your shelf, E-mail the below account.
				
						Thanks in advance
						   Dan Sprouse
==============================================================================
                           Daniel P. Sprouse
  __________          Lower Valley Ambulance Service       -----|-----
  | L.V.A.S.|_o_        Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania        *>=====[_]L) 
  |   151   |---\_                EMT                        --"-"--  
  =(*)-------(*)-'   Internet dsprouse@n3igw.pgh.pa.us                   
==============================================================================
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Use RC 56 for canopies
Date: 12 Nov 92 16:54:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.BxM4BF.Hu9
Organization: Indiana University

In article <1992Nov11.143225.410@tellab5.tellabs.com> fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne) writes:

>Bizarre name, but great stuff. ZADG is clear, much like a super
>thick plastic model cement and it sticks where you put it so be 
>careful on drips and runs. You can use very little (I run a small
>bead on the edge of the canopy) glue to hold the canopy down.

Does it dissolve foam? Just curious.. might be just the thing for
plastic bladder compartments.








-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne)
Subject: Re: Use RC 56 for canopies
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle, IL
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 14:32:25 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.042235.17163@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> fisher@kay.enet.dec.com (kay::fisher) writes:
>><<< Note 313.0 by ::Mark W. Poole "mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole)" >>>
>>                         -< Attaching Plastic Windows >-
>>
>>I'm finally to the point of "gluing" the plastic windows onto
>>my Goldberg Cub and am looking for some hints on how to do this
>>without making a mess of it.  I know you can't use CA because the
>>fumes make the plastic milky (learned the hard way).
>>
>>I'd really like to do a "professional" job, especially on the front
>>window where the plastic has to attach to the outside of the cabin.
>>
>>How do you do it???  What kind of glue/epoxy/contact cement?
>>
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>
>>Mark.
>
>RC 56.
>
>Is is a white glue available at all good hobby shops.
>It dries clear and has some flex when cured.
>But try to only get it where it belongs - clear will still
>look bad if you get a finger in it and touch the center of the 
>canopy.
>

I used to use RC 56 until I discovered ZAP's Zap-A-Dap-Goo.
Bizarre name, but great stuff. ZADG is clear, much like a super
thick plastic model cement and it sticks where you put it so be 
careful on drips and runs. You can use very little (I run a small
bead on the edge of the canopy) glue to hold the canopy down.

The main reason I switched was that RC 56 starts out with the
consistency of ELMERS glue and takes a long time to setup. This
means you will need some way of holding the canopy down until
it dries. ZADG holds upon contact.

Disadvantages to ZADG:  It will dissolve RIT Dye.
			It appears to be acetone based so it may
			be incompatible with some plastic.
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             
 F-14             |    _    |             | Jeffrey M. Fayne                
   Tomcat         |  /^ ^\  |             | Tellabs, Inc.   Lisle, IL  60532    
      ____________|_(  .  )_|____________ | 708-512-7726    FAX:708-852-7346
           --*/--|_| (___) |_|--\*--      | fayne@tellabs.com 
              *       O O       *     fjs | #include<StdDisclaimer.h>
_____________________________________________________________________________
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Fox vs Supertigre, which do'ya like?
Date: Mon,  9 Nov 92 08:05:57 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa


Hey, guys... I'd like an opinion or two....

I'm planning to pick up a .75 sized two stroke, and I'm not sure which
of the two available engines I would prefer.. Fox .74 or Supertigre S75,
ringed.

Have any of you had experience with both?

Quality - Fox used to be kinda 'sleazy' looking/lasting, have they improved
enough to compare with Supertigre?

Weight - Fox is built like a bomb shelter, but is it heavier or lighter
than the Supertigre?

Power - I know Fox'es are pretty kick-ass in the torque department, but
is it more powerful than the Supertigre?

Carb - my experience with the Supertigre carburetor is less than savory, for
an old S29.  Is the larger carb better, less leak-prone, etc?  My friend
has had a couple of Fox 45's, and really liked the Mark X carbs on them,
so I'm inclined to like those.

Durability - shouldn't be a problem for either....

I want to put the engine in a CG Chipmunk, at first, then an older-version
Top Flite Corsair, later...  So I like the swing type muffler of the
SuperTigre - I can point it down and keep it mostly cowled for the Corsair.
Is something similar available for the Fox?

Cost:  about $115 for the Fox, $180 for Supertigre.  Obviously, if the Fox
is reasonable, I'd prefer saving $70-some $$.

Ok, guys - I know you're all very opinionated, lemme have it!  ;-)

  -swb-  (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: sringrose@galaxy.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Aileron/Elevator mixers?
Date: 12 Nov 92 14:33:18 -0800
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

like an electronic setup for aileron/elevator mixing, and there seem to be

> 
 Rob, I have to ask - why would you mix aileron/elevator?



Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: teemu@krkmoon.krk.fi (Teemu Hakala)
Subject: Re: Recovering nicads
Organization: Radio Club of Kauniainen (OH2NRG)
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 14:53:28 GMT


   Hi Everyone,
   I remember reading an article about recovering damaged nicads, but have lost
   that article. It mentioned batteries that have actually had their polarity  
   reversed.
   Well, 	I just smashed my Ridge Runt (not TOO bad) today due to battery 
   failure. Could someone please mail me that article if they saved it. (Mail
   since we are not receiving news right now... don't even know if this will
   make it out! ).

   Thanks Bunches


 I being also interested in any info about damaging/repairing/loading/so on
nicad cells (or the whole packs) at a time. Planning to build a "realgood"
nicad charger, which should be automatic (loading voltage based) and maybe
even pulsed, but haven't got any scientific info about the cells themselves.

 Thanks------)


--
Teemu Hakala     |     E-Mail to :     | These opinions are mine, and so are
Kasavuorentie 9B | teemu@krksun.krk.fi | all those *ing mistakes. Do NOT think
02700 Kauniainen | Teemu.Hakala@krk.fi | abt. Radio Club when I make a mistake
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: careyb@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Brian Carey 283-4181)
Subject: RE - Mail order adresses
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:24:10 GMT

Capstone Hobbies
562 W. Schrock Road
Westerville, Oh, 43081
1-800-593-5250
1-614-899-6313

Discount Hobby Center
P.O.Box 370
Utica, NY 13503
513-733-3741

Hobby Land
343 Lincolnway West
South Bend, Indiana 46601
1-800-225-6509

Hobby Lobby
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Bentwood, Tn 37027
1-800 Don't have one.
(615)373-1444 non toll free order line
(615)377-6948 FAX order line

INDY R/C Sales INC.
10620 North College Ave.
Indianapolis, Indiana 46280
1-800-338-4639
(317)846-0766 customer service

Midwest Products CO., INC
400 S. Indiana St.
P.O. Box 564 Hobart, In. 46342
(219)942-1134
(219)947-2347 FAX line

Nationwide Hobbies
979 Kettle Creek Rd.
Eagan MN 55123
1-800-945-2121
(612)688-7885 non toll free order line

Tower Hobbies
PO Box 9078,
Champaign, Illinois 61826-9078
1-800-637-4989 orders only
1-800-637-6050 order assistance
(217)356-6608  FAX order line
(217)398-3636  non toll free order line
From: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Ultracote/Oracover PLUS
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:16:03 GMT
Organization: Rhein-Neckar-Informationsdienst Viernheim

chad@rtoeu.enet.dec.com (Chad Leigh) writes:

>Anybody out there using Goldberg UltraCote PLUS (or in Germany the Oracover PLUS, which I here is where Goldberg imports it from)?  This is the new self-stick heat shrinkable film.  I;d like to use it on sheeted wings and in general (on everything).  Coments?  Need a review or two before I commit :-)

Yep, I used on my first plane.
This thing is quite heavy so I changed to the normal Oracover which
is almost as easy to trade with. The self-sticking feature makes it a
little difficult to use on large surfaces, like wings. I'd prefer
it for covering feathers and that stuff, and stay on the normal
Oracover for the wings (would be good for the weight either).

It shrinks like the usual Oracover and all in all it's a quite fine
cover if you think of my suggestions above.

Bye,
  Torsten.

-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|       Torsten Leibold, Hard- und Software, Viernheim, West Germany.         |
|   UUCP: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org  ..!unido!cat!orfeo!rnihd!rnivh!torsten   |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: dave@bclwn.wn.bcl.co.nz (Dave Green)
Subject: Re: neat helicopter modification
Organization: Business Computers Ltd, Wellington, New Zealand
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 01:30:31 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz) writes:
: Bob Sims is the guy who mounted the servo at the tail. He had to hang
: his pipe out the front to counterbalance it. Putting it under the horiz
: fin puts in the thre tail boom strike zone. Many are mounting the servo
: on the boom just behind the frames. Dwight Schilling reports this works
: as well as the tail mounted unit.
: 
re frame/tail boom mount ... how so ?  

Presumably the linkage to the tail is thru the normal wire_in_tube arrangement,
so this setup will reduce the linkage length by say 8" or so. Is there really a 
noticeable difference in handling ?


-- 
    _     _
 / /_) / /   / /  / Dave Green <dave@bcl.co.nz>
/ /_) / /_  / /_ /  Ph: +64 (4) 801-6716  Fax: +64 (4) 385-2752
Business Computers Ltd, Box 3236, Wellington 6000, NEW ZEALAND.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ch@eiaut2.tuwien.ac.at (Christian Kral)
Subject: does KYOSHO germany have internet?
Organization: Technical University Vienna, AUSTRIA
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 12:38:56 GMT

Does anyone know an internet address of the KYOSHO company? I would
prefer the german address. 
I sent them my CONCEPT30 a couple of  m o n t h s  ago and as often I
call they just tell me they are not finished yet, or: "I don't know, the
one who knows is not here.". With the time it is getting expensive to
call from Austria to Germany, so I would like to try it this way.

Thanks in advance,

Christian.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: duncan@nevada.edu (DUNCAN R MCCOY)
Subject: Re: Attaching Plastic Windows
Organization: University of Nevada System Computing Services
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 22:25:25 GMT

A good product for gluing plastic windows and canopies is "RC-56".
RC-56 is a water-based latex cement. It looks like Elmer's, white
when wet, but dries clear overnight. No fumes, no fogging.

Duncan McCoy
Boulder City, NV
duncan@helios.nevada.edu
From: lewis@pax.usc.edu (tony lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: neat helicopter modification
Date: 8 Nov 1992 15:31:06 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: pax.usc.edu


> He had rigged up a way to attach a servo to his vertical tail fin!
>Tail-pitch control was done using that servo.  That allowed him to
>get rid of the long wire running back along the tail boom that normally
>controls tail rotor pitch.

I was involved in a project to put a helicopter under computer control.
I was experiencing alot of trouble with the tail rotor pitch control.
It was due to the hysterisis caused by  Kyosho's silly long pushrod design.
I hit upon the same solution; placing a servo on the tail fin, only i 
used the horizontal tail fin. THis will reduce the moment caused 
by have a servo so far away from the CG (as in a vertical tail fin mounting)
What I did was  to cut out a piece of plywood about 6" long and 2.125" wide.
I mounted the servo in the plywood and the plywood under the horizontal
tail fin using the existing mounting screws. I then used a short pushrod.

The response was much much crisper, and I could easily place the helicopters
YAW under computer control. I think Kyosho should make this a permanant 
modification.

Disclaimer: This is something that I am doing in a research environment.
If you choose to make this modification, and something happens to the craft
as a result, I won't be held responsible.:-)

Tony Lewis
USC Robotics Lab
lewis@mensa.usc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Subject: Giezendanner Electric Retracts
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: global
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 13:46:17 GMT

I am in search of information and/or a source for obtaining Giezendanner 
Electric Retracts.  I did see them advertised somewhere in the last year 
but I dont remember where.

If anyone in netland has information regarding these retracts, please 
e-mail the information to me.

I appreciate your responses.  Thank-you.

Michael A. McEvilley
mmcevill@mitre.org
From: teemu@krkmoon.krk.fi (Teemu Hakala)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Help on motors and speed controllers
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:08:38 GMT
Organization: Radio Club of Kauniainen (OH2NRG)


   Dear Netters:

   I am trying to drive a basic rc electric motor,
   Kyosho 24 degree timing, 27 turn motor.

   First of all:

   Is this some kind of stepper motor?

   How much countinous current can this motor take (aprox.)?

   What is the 24 degree timing specification?

   Do I have to be concerned with timing when designing
   a speed controller?

   I want to make someting SIMPLE, can I just use a variable
   resistor for a speed controller?  Note, effeciancy is NOT
   important.

   Why are some speed controllers rated at 100+ amps continous?
   I can't imagine an 8.4V Nicad package delivering this kind
   of power.  I can see that 100+ amps can be present when the
   motor is turned on and off.  What am I overlooking?

   What does freq. have to do with speed controllers?  Do they
   convert the 8.4vdc to xxx volt ac?  Therefore, can I drive
   this motor with a direct dc source or must I convert?


   Thanks for any help you can provide.  I am in a strange
   university contest and am supplied with this motor.

   -Jay
	    Univeristy of Illinois
		  at Chicago

				      Internet: U40348@uicvm.uic.edu
				      Bitnet  : U40348@uicvm.bitnet

 Well, the motors generally used in almost any RC application are just regular
DC motors, with some interesting extras required by the racers (changeable
coals (?) and adjustable timing for example). You can drive it by DC or 
pulsed DC (from some electronic speed controllers), but from AC, I don't know
how it will turn, but it's almost impossible to break them without load, so
you may try AC. Overvoltage may burn them totally, the resistance being so
small, the currents are really enormous, and nicads can produce almost infinite
currents (their self resistance is veeeeery small). So if a esc (el speed
controller) is rated at 100amp cont, it is NOT overkill, if the wheels of a
car are jammed, the motor draws short circuit currents through it.
 You can use pot (well, at least if you make one yourself, those wattages 
surely burn any pot you have (assuming you are a normal el-hobbyist, not a 
power plant manager :). I say that you should use a simple transistor bridge
and a pot for the bases, of course, for one-direction-only you will do with
only one (be sure to have big heat sink).
 The frequency has to do with esc's, they generally pulse the power, and at
low frequencys the motor may miss some of it, but at, say, 1kHz it is enough
continous. You don't have to think this very much, if you want a simple way
to control the motors.

 well, hope you got it, I wouldn't from that mess...

--
Teemu Hakala     |     E-Mail to :     | These opinions are mine, and so are
Kasavuorentie 9B | teemu@krksun.krk.fi | all those *ing mistakes. Do NOT think
02700 Kauniainen | Teemu.Hakala@krk.fi | abt. Radio Club when I make a mistake
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: djones@iex.iex.com
Subject: Re: Fox vs Supertigre, which do'ya like?
Organization: IEX Corporation Inc.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 00:45:16 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.234921.2975@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> vkochend@nyx.cs.du.edu
(vance kochenderfer) writes:
>
>     Well, the guys out at my field don't like Fox engines.  They really
>don't like Fox engines.  I haven't heard a whole lot about Supertigre,
>but what I have heard is generally positive.  I'd say it's probably a
>good idea to spend the extra $70 and save yourself the hassle.  But that's
>just me.
>
There are several Fox's at our field and people seem pretty positive about
them. I own a ST 40 and like it. It has been pretty reliable at least for the
last 3 years. I will probably try a Fox in the near future. I like the prince
and the fact that they are made in America!

Doug
-------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)612-2600 ext: 325
                                   |    djones@iex.iex.com
                                   |    uunet!iex!djones
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Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mikey@hpcuhe.cup.hp.com (Michael Manlove)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Attaching Plastic Windows
Date: 10 Nov 92 17:37:45 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino

mwp@ms9.mis.semi.harris.com (Mark W. Poole) writes:

> 
> [about gluing plastic windows]
> 
> How do you do it???  What kind of glue/epoxy/contact cement?
> 
I used RC-56 to glue a plastic canopy to a wooden frame on my Mini Racer 
(slope glider).  The stuff looks sort of like Elmer's, but it's thinner.
It seemed to hold just fine (even when I did a Figure-9 into the hill) and
didn't fog or craze the plastic.  It dries clear, which makes things easier.
I found it in a hobby shop; I'm pretty sure you can mail order it from Hobby
Lobby or Tower if you can't get it locally.


> Mark.
> 
mikey  (Mike Manlove)   (mikey@cup.hp.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc