HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Subject: Re: [M] metal halide $$$
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 17:55:11 GMT

    In article <1993Jan7.165110.13527@vaxeline.ftp.com>,
    colt@vaxeline.ftp.com (Colt Forsythe) writes:
    > Recently, I was pricing metal halide systems. The bulbs were
    > expensive ($65) but within my budget. However, the hood systems
    > were very expensive ($265 for one pendent setup). Why are they
    > so expensive and are there any alternatives?

    While running errands this morning, I happened to see an electrical
    supply and lighting store.  Just for grins, I stopped in and asked about
    MH stuff.  They had no 5500K bulbs, but a 175W ballast (bare, with
    mounting brackets) was $63, and a socket was $9.  You'd have to supply
    an enclosure for the ballast, some cable, and whatever box/reflector
    you wanted for the bulb.  BTW, this was in no way a discount place.
    You could probably find better prices by shopping around.

    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1993, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: Sparky
Subject: Re: OUTDOOR PONDS
Summary: Re: OUTDOOR PONDS
Organization: None
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:37:59 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.004451.26930@rigel.econ.uga.edu>
hughes@dogwood.botany.uga.edu (Wayne Hughes) writes:
>
>  This autumn we decided to get rid of that sloping, shifting gravel
>  expanse we call a driveway, and began terracing it, converting it
>  into a water garden area.
[stuff deleted]
>  The problem is wild animals.  We're already in the Georgia
>  county with the highest population of deer, and the property
>  is isolated to boot.
[stuff deleted]
>  Wayne
>
We have considered a pond, too.  In our neighborhood roams
a large raccoon or raccoons.  We've been told that it would
be pointless to create a fish pond, as the 'coons will
simply eat the fish!

Is there any truth to this?

--Sparky
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Green Water (was Re: Forget hatching brine shrimp).
Date: 4 Jan 93 23:10:51 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: gvgdsd.gvg.tek.com

In article <1993Jan4.080658.1869@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com 
(Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>You know how now and then people post here, complaining about 
>green water?
>Do whatever they do to get the green water and feed that to 
>your daphnia.
>Unfortunately, I am utterly unable to force a green water bloom 
>in any of my tanks...

Only last night I was thinking someone must have a good recipe for
algae infested water, all my tanks are crystal clear (well maybe not
crystal....). Seems that as a kid my pet goldfish tank would turn
green all by itself. I also had to pull 'miles' of Elodea Densa out, too!

Recently I've even tried culturing the thick green 'slime' that collects 
on the underside of the light.

Anyone know the secret to truely green 'soup'??

++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Green Water (was Re: Forget hatching brine shrimp).
Date: 5 Jan 1993 05:23:10 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard) writes:
> Anyone know the secret to truely green 'soup'??

I have one tank that has been produced green water for over two
years running.  

	10 gallon tank no hood or light.
	Sponge filter.
	No gravel.
	Drift wood for pleco to munch/rest on.
	Fish: 1 pleco, several plattys, several snails.
	Heater set to about 78 to prevent the daily temp flux small.

The tank is in front of a south facing window with the drapes open
most of the time.  I let gunk build up in the bottom and do not
worry about nitrate levels.

Although the water in this tank is pea green there is little if any
algea on the walls thanks to the fish.  A similar tank with fish that
do not clean the walls is covered with a nasty/nice coat of green
slime.  Both tanks produce duck weed in profusion.  

So my guess is that if you give a tank lots of lite, keep the glass
clean and the bottom covered with fish do do the water will turn
green.

The pleco get regular vegi feedings.  The plattys get flakes.
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 20:07:09 GMT
Subject: Re: Keeping plants alive.... how?!?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria

In alt.aquaria, bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar) writes:

    I, too, use the AP laterite plugs.  Some time ago, I saw some catalog
    that advertized laterite by the pound, real cheap - at about $8.
    Anyone know where I can get some?  I am planning to set up a 75 or 100
    gallon plant tank soon.

Beware, or at least be careful, of cheap laterite.  Folks have reported 
that it will cloud the water for hours/days/ever depending on the filter
used.  

We have used Dupla laterite balls ("Duplarit K") with great success in 
tanks with UGFs.  They do not dissolve, disperse or disintegrate, at 
least in our experience.  We have also used laterite powder ("Duplarit 
G") in the lower third of the substrate in out non-UGF tanks.  When we 
uproot plants, the laterite "cloud" settles within minutes. 

Is it worth the price?  Try the cheap stuff, then decide :-).  Dupla is 
available from Daleco, (219) 747-7376. 

-------
George
From: philt@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (philip.tomaskovic)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Skilter restart problem
Date: 4 Jan 93 21:37:15 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T


Has anyone else had problems with a Supreme Skilter restarting after
a power outage? 

Mine would not restart after unplugging it and then plugging it back in.
The impeller will turn, but not fast enough to start the syphon intake.
I cleaned off the impeller and the well of the motor, but it doesn't seem
to help.

Is it possible that the motor has weakened somehow and needs replacement?
I bought it when they first came out a year or 2 ago. Or would the
impeller be the more guilty suspect?

Thanks
Phil
From: montana@pinetree.org (David Wong)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Nords
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 09:07:07 EST
Organization: Gordon's Pinetree * Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Are there any contact here for the Quebec Nordiques?
 
Now that Sakic is out of the line up for three months (eye injury)
         Sundin out for 3 or four days   (seperated shoulder?
         Duchesne out for a day (Concussion) 

 Will Ricci step out and prove that he can be a franchise player.  Will 
Scott Pearson live up to his 1st round potential the same goes for Scott 
Young!  How will the Quebec do in the face of more BAD LUCK!!
 
We shall see tonight when they play against the much improve Islanders!

--
  Internet: montana@pinetree.org (David Wong)
  UUCP: pinetree!montana
  Gordon's Pinetree -- Ottawa, ON, Canada -- +1 613 526 0702 -- v.32bis/v.42bis

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: OUTDOOR PONDS
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:54:35 GMT
Summary: Boating supply

In article <1993Jan3.183433.22271@cbnews.cb.att.com> wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett) writes:
>
>
>
>    Something I've thought about for a while is fiberglass.  In my youth, I
>    worked in an art store.  The owner had carved a rather large statue, and
>    wanted to reproduce it.  We painted the statue with a rubber compound.
>    Then, we built up a 1/4"-thick layer of fiberglass on it by using lots
>    of strips of fiberglass mat held together by liberal brushings of resin.
>    When dried, the 'glass mold was cut into fourths.  When the mold was
>    reassembled in a frame, the rubber liner was inserted, and the whole
>    thing was filled with plaster to make a copy of the statue.
>
>    I don't know where to get the matting and resin, but it seems to me that
>    this would make a good, tough base for a pond, especially if lined with
>    rubber compound or plastic sheet.  One of these days I'll start looking

Boating supply stores sell fiberglas resin and the matting material.
I've used a product called 'Boat Armor' with some success. It's somewhat
unpleasant to work with (use in a ventilated area) and better to work
with when the air temp stays above 50.

I know a fellow that's built large wooden boxes out of marine plywood,
and lined them with just the boat armor stuff (I think he used the paper-coated
plywood.) He then buried those - voila, instant smallish (4x8) ponds.

Pre-formed fiberglas ponds are available.. I imagine they're not that
big (the one's I've seen at pet shops are pretty small.)
>    in art stores for the ingredients.
>
>    Any comments?
>
>    -- Keith
>
>-- 
>    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1993, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
>    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
>    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
>    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'


-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6533 rec.aquaria:9988
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Marineland Penguin Powerheads
Date: 13 Jan 93 01:43:57 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

It's official:

The Marineland Penguin 550, 660, and 1140 are not adjustable.  Perhaps the next
model will be.

				-Matt
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Nords
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 09:07:34 GMT

In article <C0Hn68.LMC@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:
>>>>Are there any contact here for the Quebec Nordiques?
>>>Are they fresh water or marine Nords?
>>Probably marine Nords since they come from Quebec.
>   Do they do well in reef tanks??

Probably not -- must be too warm for them.  Now, if you have a cold water
marine tank....
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Forget hatching brine shrimp, new question.
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 18:23:33 GMT

Oleg Kiselev (oleg@netcom.com) wrote:
: 
: You know how now and then people post here, complaining about green water?
: Do whatever they do to get the green water and feed that to your daphnia.
: Unfortunately, I am utterly unable to force a green water bloom in any of 
: my tanks...

If you are willing to spend $10 on an attempt (and have a tank
available) - get a feeder goldfish, put it into an unfiltered
tank that gets lots of indirect sunlight, and order a greenwater
culture from the back of FAMA.  I know, it hurts to pay for
something that so many people get for free, but if you really
want it...

Caveat - I have seen a goldfish/greenwater setup in action, and
know that it can be viable for years with little attention paid
to it, but I've never done it myself.

As for the daphnia question, if you don't need them in large
quantities, they can be raised in any fishtank.  Drop in a
snail or two (I have a ramshorn), make sure it is a fairly well-lit
tank (you want algae on the walls), and it would hurt to have
a largish fish in the tank (you want the fish to be too large to be
real intersted in the daphnia).  I have such a tank (except
that it has about a dozen fry in it now, that are surviving my
neglect thanks to the daphnia they share the tank with) (actually,
it was about two dozen fry a couple of months ago, but survival
of the fittest and all that) (Epiplatys chaperi, if it matters).

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: kjw1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (kenneth.j.wagner)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: [F] sexing p. zebra
Date: 12 Jan 93 01:20:39 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T



I would like to try to get some red zebra (pseudotropheus zebra) 
to breed but am having trouble determining how to sex them.  Most
of the confusion has to do with zebra that are orange in color.
In "The Cichlid Aquarium", Loiselle shows an orange specimen that 
has well defined egg spots on its anal fin and identifies it as a 
male.  The female shown is much more red and has very faint 
egg spots.  In "Aquarium Atlas", Baensch states that females are
orange to red.  Both identify the powder blue morph as a male.

So, it seems to me that the orange zebra can be either male or
female and that the presence/absence of egg spots on the anal fin
should be used to determine the sex.  Is this true?  Will the 
presence/absence of eggs spots be a good indicator in specimen 
that are not sexually mature or do the spots only develop when the 
fish reaches maturity?  Also, I've never seen a really red, red
zebra (like the one in Loiselle's book) in local stores, just the
orange and powder blue.  Anybody out there ever see a truly red
zebra?

I currently have two zebra in my tank.  One is orange with about
four eggs spots on its anal fin and the other is albino.  I'm
guessing the orange one is a male but I'm not sure about the 
albino.  The albino doesn't have any egg spots.  This would imply
that it is a female but it may also be due to the lack of color.
The orange one chases the albino a lot which would indicate that
he is asserting his dominance over another male (or would he chase
a female in the same manner?).

Thanks for the help.

Ken
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Tiny-FAQ for alt.binaries.pictures
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:32:57 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.011412.21306@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:
>In article <1993Jan6.080349.12384@zooid.guild.org> Lynda Fincham <gaea@zooid.guild.org> writes:
>>To save a picture from a *.binaries group using TRN (or RN), just use "s" or
>>"w", TRN will automatically append new files on the end. Once you've got all
>>the pieces in one file, remove all the headers and gunk at the top (including
>>description) so it's one big binary file. Then type "uudecode filename" where
>
>How does one edit a binary file?
>
   You don't.  An uuencoded file is ASCII, the whole point of
uuencoding.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Alligator Gars...
Date: 4 Jan 93 14:42:20 GMT
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation



	I picked up a 7" long alligator gar the other day for my 125 gallon
	tank...

	I assumed there would be more info on him in my EXOTIC TROPICAL
	FISH manual... or in my BAENSCH book (sp?).  But, there isn't.

	Does/has anyone kept Alligator Gar's before?  Anyone have any tips
	or useful information for me.

	Thanks (in advance).

	Mike
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: vkoser@niblick.ecn.purdue.edu (Vincent R Koser)
Subject: Help
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:49:01 GMT

I recently moved my 20G reeef tank up to a 56G column tank, it has a wet
dry with a 15G sump and a countercurrent protein skimmer, 2 24" actinic
and 2 24" full spectrum bulbs.  Current inhabitants mushroom coral, Zenia
coral, Sunflower coral, Pecculla clown, Coral Banded Shrimp, Coral Beuty,
Mandarin Goby(alive for 6 Mos. wow), and about 70 lbs of plant rock, live
rock, tufla rock mix.

My question: I added a new fish blue spotted box fish, What does it eat?
		any special concerns?

	     Sunflower coral is also new, How much light does it like
		should I be adding any suppliments to the tank now
		like calcium.  

Any replys would be greatly appreciated
Also can anyone suggest a good book on live coral care.

Thanks in advance, reply here or to personal account.


*******************************************************************************
**  |\  /^^^^^^^^\    Just another Fish * *                                  **
**  | \/        O \   in the sea !!!!!! * *   vkoser@niblick.cc purdue.edu   **
**  | /\       ___/                     * *                                  **
**  |/  \________/                      * *                                  **
*******************************************************************************
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Re: Nords
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:44:38 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.090734.16762@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>>>Probably marine Nords since they come from Quebec.
>>   Do they do well in reef tanks??

Probably not, unless they are Arctic-Nords.  Check your map!

-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6429 rec.aquaria:9837
From: tnnguyen@marcus.cs.umn.edu (Trung N. Nguyen)
Subject: Re: Nords
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 02:08:08 GMT

In article <1993Jan06.121722.3686@Veritas.COM> oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>montana@pinetree.org (David Wong) writes:
>>Are there any contact here for the Quebec Nordiques?
>
>Are they fresh water or marine Nords?
>-- 
>Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.
>
>Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
>VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg

Probably marine Nords since they come from Quebec.

------------------------------------------------------------------
! Email:                              Phone:                     !
!   tnnguyen@cs.umn.edu                 (612) 623-3913  (Home)   !
!   tnnguyen@cdr.lter.umn.edu           (612) 625-7930  (Work)   !
!                                       (612) 624-7807  (Office) !
------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Subject: Re: Goldfish woes (LONG)
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:42:31 GMT



	I don't see anything wrong w/ your setup...  You might want to
	lessen the amount of water you change.  Maybe 20% every two weeks.

	Is your water supply highly chlorinated?  That can cause a lot of
	stress which might lead to disease.  A lot of diseases can lurk in
	your tank without hte fish getting sick, until something stresses
	them out and weakens them.  Just like we always have some kind of
	cold virus or something in us, but we don't get sick until we get
	over tired and stressed...

	1)  I doubt your powerheads are the culprits, but if you want, you 
	    can regulate the flow so it isn't as intense.

	2)  What you are feeding them sounds O.K. to me.  Are you varying
	    their diet?  Varying the diet will help keep them healthier.

	3)  Using the magnum as a diatom filter certainly couldn't hurt!
    	    It will remove a lot of unseen nasties.  But if the water 
	    smells clean and looks clean, it probably IS clean.

	4)  The temperature is probably fine.  Do they seem to be gasping
       	    for air at all?  I'm sure they aren't with those two powerheads
	    churning up the water.

	5)  In all honesty, I don't know what range of pH goldfish prefer.
	    But I doubt that one of 7.4 would cause any serious stress.
	    But... you could try adding a pH buffer and bring it down to
	    neutral... (7.0 to 7.2).
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6455 rec.aquaria:9870 sci.aquaria:1839
From: ck983@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Robert J. Cardinali)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Lighting
Date: 7 Jan 1993 11:59:02 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ck983@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Robert J. Cardinali)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan) says:

>I have a 27 gal marine aquarium.  Currently it is being illuminated by
>a single 24", 20W corallife 50% actinic/50% daylight with reflector.  I feel
>this is too low and am planning to move up to a double light fixture (20W blue
>and the 20W corallife).
>
>The tank has corals and other inverts.  Is my choice of double fixture and 
>light adequate?
>
>
>
>Darin Cowan - cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org - I'm really me!
>
>

In my 29 gallon salt tank, I use one Grow-Lux 20 watt, and two Sylvania
soft-white bulbs.  I had bad luck with the actinic, actually...my hair
algae went wild, and all of my calurpa died off rapidly.  I returned to
the Grow-Lux, and everything normalized in about 2 months.  I agree that
you definitely need more light for any anenome/plant activity.  Once upon
a time, I had three soft whites burning on this tank, but over time found
that two were adequate in conjunction with the Gro-Lux.  Hope this helps.
-- 
Bob Cardinali
ck983@cleveland.freenet.edu


Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6522 rec.aquaria:9966
From: dxf6@po.CWRU.Edu (Dean Fear)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Poor Man's Canister Filter
Date: 12 Jan 1993 15:42:45 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: dxf6@po.CWRU.Edu (Dean Fear)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu



Hear is an idea I have been thinking about for a while.  (A very similar
one was provided in the Dec TFH)  It is pretty simple:

Take 2 Aquaclear filter.  Operate one as a mechanical/ chemical
filtration as you would normally.  Take the other and make it
function solely as a biologic filter.  This is done by attaching a
small sponge filter to the intake tube.  (I saw one well suited for
this in Tropical Fish Hobbyist magazine.  It is called the Filter
Max pre filter, available mail order from Daleco Master Breeders
(219) 747-7376 for 6 or 7 dollars.)  The filter box is then filled
with biofilter medium.  You would rinse the sponge on a regular
basis but never change the bio media.   

I quesstimate the size of the filters together should equal the
output of a regular filter ie if you were going to use a Aquaclear
400 use two Aquaclears 200's or a 100 and 300. 

This system provides the same volume of contact with filter medias as a
canister filter but with a much greater tank turnover.  For example,
in the case of a 29 gallon I would use two Aquaclear mini's set up
as described. This set up would cost you about $30 mail order.  I
figure it would work as well as a Hagen Biolife wet/dry 35 which cost
about $80 mail order.

What do you guys think?


                                      Dean
				dxf6@po.cwru.edu

Disclaimer: Products and sources described are used for illustrative
purposes only.  They are not intended to be endorsements.  
 
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria