HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Serpae Tetra beating the tar out of goldfish!?
Date: 2 Sep 92 08:22:55 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

<HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>Thoughts on the matter:  are two too few?  (read that fast!)  Do they
>need a school so that they can beat each other and not the goldfish?

If you have a school of them, the whole school will be harrassing the 
goldfish.

>Could this be a territorial display?  

No, just a violent display of offended aesthetic sensibilities.  Given 
my attitude toward "fancy" goldfish, I can't blame the serpae for taking 
offense.

For what it's worth, deep-bodied Hyphessobricons are very aggressive and 
H. serpae are among the most pugnatious of the group.
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mar@athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein)
Subject: Re: ??? Beginner questions ???
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:44:12 GMT

While it is possible to be successful with a tank like you have, it
is very difficult.  Especially if this is your first saltwater tank,
you are likely to have problems.  I'd suggest that you start by doing
a lot of reading, and then reconsider keeping livestock in such a
small tank.

Salt water tanks are more delicate than freshwater because you have
another variable to worry about: the salinity.  This will change as
water evaporates and you add makeup water.  Also, the oceans are much
more stable than bodies of freshwater, so marine life is less tolerant
of change.  A large aquarium (say 30 gallons or more) is a much more
stable environment than small tanks.  While people occasionally do
10 gallon marine tanks, a 5 gallon tank is particularly difficult.

You mention an American and an African clownfish.  All clownfish come
from the Pacific, so an African variety is rather hard to believe.
Some species of clownfish are more delicate than others and some grow
larger.  In a tank that small, I'd probably keep percula clowns, which
are fairly hardy if they survive transportation and acclimation.

Clownfish don't like all anemones.  In particular, Pacific clownfish
do not like Atlantic anemones.  The less expensive anemones sold in 
the U.S. are Condylactis from the Carribean and the clownfish will ignore
these.  The "Long tentacled anemone" (Heteractis Malu) and various
carpet anemones are most popular with clownfish.

Most anemones require a lot of bright light to survive.  Symbiotic alge
live within their tissues and the anemone will die if these do not florish.
The Carribean anemones will do better on low light, but will still fare
poorly.  Normally I'd suggest several actinic and wide spectrum florescent
tubes at a minimum to expect the anemone to survive more than a few months.
However on a tank that small, you will have difficulty finding appropriate
lighting.  If you can put the tank in front of a window where it gets
several hours of direct sunlight a day, that may be sufficient.

I've tried to answer your questions, but I still think the best thing
would be not to even try keeping such a tank.  You will likely doom a
number of creatures to their deaths.  Do some reading to learn more about
what you want to keep, and start with a setup that will give you some chance
of success.
					-Mark
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Lighting: Why spend big $?
Date: 31 Aug 92 19:43:08 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <vnrao.715199561@teja.cs.ucf.edu> vnrao@teja.cs.ucf.edu (Nageshwara Rao Vempaty) writes:
> If you are willing to experiment, get a 300W quartz halogen, 75 W Mercury 
>Vapor/Sodium vapor (and may be one 48" triton though not really necessary) 
>and go for an open top if possible.  This MH + MV combo will provide Xtra high 
>watts and  has enough spikes all over the spectrum. Should cost you <$50.
>I use a 300W QH + a 48" generic fluorescent and my plants love it. Not to 
>mention that it throws deep shadows and illuminates the whole room.

I have always been under the impression that Quartz Halogen lights
are not Metal Halides.  Metal Halides are usually huge egg-shaped
bulbs that screw into sockets and have all kinds of neat little envelopes
and wires inside of them.  If I am wrong, please tell me where you got
a 300W MH for under $50.  
>
>VNRao

Jon  
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6844 alt.aquaria:4761
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Date: 27 Aug 92 14:14:11 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Double UPS!  By "grow up" I ment learn more about the hobby and all the
neat and different things one can do.  Sorry.

                 mark

In article <BtLy2r.n2w@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
> 
> mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
> >They either get out of the hobby or "grow up" and move on to
> >something better.
> 
> What type of plants do you suggest I keep with my goldfish?  Or should I
> "grow up" or should I get out of the hobby?
> 
> Frank Fujita
> 
> 
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7001 alt.aquaria:4841
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Improving Captive Reef Base Rock
Keywords: reef marine coralline live rock
Date: 2 Sep 92 01:20:34 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Sep1.183013.26818@minnow.sp.unisys.com> ron@minnow.UUCP (Ron Burns) writes:
>
>A FAMA issue early the year (Jan,Feb,Mar or so) featured a tank set up with
>the suspended egg crate. You may want to look for that. 

 You are the second one to mention the FAMA article. I have paged through
the issues I have from that time frame and can not locate the article.
Perhaps its in one of the few issues I am missing. I have received some
real good mail on this thread and will put together a collection of the
messages tomorow. One of the letters I received asked if this could be
done.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (General Protection Fault)
Subject: Re: need fish ideas
Organization: is the refuge of the unimaginative!
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 02:00:20 GMT


In article <1992Aug27.210542.29237@athena.mit.edu> annied@athena.mit.edu (Anne
Dudfield) writes:
+Hi!  I recently started a 10 gallon tank, and I've had 5 tiger barbs living in
 it
+for over a month, and they're all healthy and happy.  I think it's time to get
+some more fish, and I need suggestions as to what kind to get.  Any ideas?

I wouldn't recommend much more than those 5 barbs (which are probably pretty 
active).  You might like a Clown Plecostomus or another small suckermouth type 
fish though.  Any pleco- other than a clown will probably get to be too big
for your tank too fast for you to enjoy it.

+
+Also, how important is an air pump?  The pet store person didn't recommend one
,
+and my fish have been doing fine without it.
+
You can get more details from the monthly FAQ postings but...
if your filter pump is sufficient for your tank it should provide enough 
circulation and surface tension disruption to aerate the tank.  I run a 30g [F]
on a little Fluval canister and a power head.  Either the power head or the 
Fluval alone would be more than adequate though.  An air pump is (to me) just a
noisy way to circulate water.

Keith.
-- 
D.K.Higgs  DATA+@osu.edu  a.k.a  dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu _____   __o
Ohio State University Libraries, Acquisitions Department      -------    -\<,
Continuation Acquisition Division                              ------ ( )/ ( )
~~(614)292-6314~~~~~~fax(614)292-2015~~~~~~~~~~\_________/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: daveo@omews18.intel.com (David O'Brien)
Subject: Re: Drip plate blues and other questions
Organization: Intel Corp., Hillsboro, Oregon
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 03:26:26 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.110332.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> jmb14@jaguar.uofs.edu writes:
>I've finally gone big time and bought a wet/dry for $200 for my 55 (M) set up.
>The problem is that it has a drip plate not a spinner bar and I don't seem to 
>be getting even coverage of my sump.  A good lot of the water goes throught the
>middle of the drip plate and never makes it to the edges, subsequently the 2
>outermost rings of the DLS don't get wet.  What do I do?  I've got the thing
>pretty level and I tried making the holes in the center of the plate smaller
>and this has helped somewhat- anyway, the fish seem happy.


Get a square of panplex, I think, tank divider and put it on top of your
drip plate.  You'll have to play with how big a square to use.  Start
large and then cut down.  

The tank divider is mostly plastic, with a few holes.  I've see a number
of drip plate designs that use this for the center difuse.


-- 
Dave O'Brien  (daveo@ichips.intel.com)

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jamescho@leland.Stanford.EDU (James Cho)
Subject: re: [M] Live Rock and White scum
Keywords: live rock mail order
Organization: CIS, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 23:00:07 GMT

> From: ron@minnow.sp.unisys.com (Ron Burns)
>
> Several people seem to have mentioned a white, mold-like scum coating
> in their tanks soon after adding live rock.  Anyone care to try to explain
> this?

i just read about this in john tullock's book.  (i forgot the title.)  he
says that it is some sort of bacteria.

jamescho
__________________________________________________________________________
James S. H. Cho h: (415) 326-4657 o: 725-3649 o _   _ _  _   _  _   /   _
Center for Integrated Systems, Elec. Eng.    / /_\ /\/\ /_\ /_ /   / \ / \
CIS-038, MC-4070, Stanford, CA 94301     \__/ /  //   / \_  _/ \_//  / \_/
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron)
Subject: Water changes
Organization: Motorola CSE
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 20:38:14 GMT

Has anyone had any experience with the "PYTHON" water changer?  
I'm thinking of getting one and would appreciate any advice.
Thanks
Glenn
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Glenn Gawron                          | Internet: ggawron@comm.mot.com|
|Motorola Central Systems Engineering  |    X.400: C10836@email.mot.com|
|1301 E. Algonquin Road - IL02 Rm 0436 |    Voice: (708) 538-3756      |
|Schaumburg, Illinois. 60196 USA       |      Fax: (708) 576-5640      |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: schwarz@esrican.uucp (Mr.Coach)
Subject: [M] Phosphate Test Kit.  Suggestions?
Reply-To: bschwarz@esri.com
Organization: ESRI Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 14:06:45 GMT

Thanks to all who have responded to my previous
postings.  I am yet another person who has gained 
from the net.

I'd like to purchase a phosphate test kit.  I don't 
want to spend an exorbitant am't but I'd like something 
I can eventually use for a reef setup.  
Any suggestions?

I'd also like to purchase a phosphate remover.
Again, any suggestions?

I have already purchased test kits from Marine Enterprises
for PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.  The Nitrate kit 
doesn't state which it tests Nitrate or Nitrogen-Nitrate.  
I read in Thiel or Moe that most are Nitrogen-Nitrate.  It 
was about CAN $15.  Is it safe to assume Nitrogen-Nitrate?

Thanks, 

Brian
-- 
_|_| Environmental Systems Research Institute, CANADA     
_|_|                                
      If E-mailing please use -->    bschwarz@esri.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rivan@bnr.ca (Robert Ivan)
Subject: a marroon clown with a twist
Reply-To: rivan@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 19:58:02 GMT


  I just bought a maroon clown that i've never seen before
and I wonder if anyone knows what they are, where thery're
from and any other details that I might need to know in keeping them alive.

  Its a maroon clown ( more of a rose color ) with three wide white
bands.  heres the differance : the white bands have a yellow buttercup
band inside of them.   

  The guy who runs the shop went nuts and got 6 of them ( i got 2 )
but doesn't know much else. 
 Any help would be appreciated.

Rob


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: ** Does sealant contaminate water? **
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 17:25:28 GMT

Jay Lorenzana (U40348@uicvm.uic.edu) wrote:
: Dear Netters,
: 
: I have a 30 gallon salt tank with 8 fish.  I have a leak I want
: to seal up with the typical aquarium sealer.  Can I seal the
: leak without harming the water/fish?  My worry is that this
: sealant mentions that acetic acid is apparent while it
: cures.
: I don't want to drain the tank and fish for I have no place
: to put them, and it's too much trouble.  I want to drain the
: tank half way, do the repairs, then refill the tank after a day.
: 
: Any problems with this?  Thanks for any help.

Your posting is a bit confusing.  When you drain the tank half
way, is the leak above the water line?  If so, you are fine.
Drop the water level, re-seal the tank, and then keep the water
level down for at least 24 hrs.  The sealant will cure in that
time period.  I do not know if your filtration system will
work with the water level that low, or how your fish will do
w/out filtration for 24 hours, but unless you have someplace
else to put your fish, you really have no options.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: [F] [Plants] Wanted - hard-water plant list
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 21:09:10 GMT

I'm thinking of setting up some Tanganyikan tanks
and I was wondering if anyone could tell me the sort of
plants that would be typical on the rocky shores in this
area? Is there a book that deals with this area? My
own books are very sketchy about that.

A browse through some plant books looking for plants
that like both hard water and come from Africa didn't
yield much - maybe some Crypt. species.

Failing this, can anyone recommend plants they've had
success in growing in hard water?

My own guesses would be Egeria densa, crypts, anubias,
ambulia, some nymphaea, Java moss and Java fern.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Hurricane Andrews Damage
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 05:14:20 GMT

I wonder about all the tropical fish farms in Florida.  We might be in for
a scant winter as far as plants and Florida raised tropicals are concerned
and that may lead into higher prices on the remainder of live-stock.  Old
economics of supply and demand.


--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Subject: Atlantis in Los Gatos
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Distribution: ca
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:51:17 GMT

I am posting this to Ca only since I can't figure
out how to post it to only the bay area.

I drove to Los Gatos yesterday since I haven't been
to Atlantis in several weeks.  I found that the
place had burnt down.

Anyone knows what happened and when it happened?  It
seem a little strange that a fish store catches fire.

/tom
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R]  Reef aquarium lighting...  Ultralux 6500
Date: 3 Sep 92 17:42:48 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Sep2.213052.14309@minnow.sp.unisys.com> ron@minnow.UUCP (Ron Burns) writes:
>	4. The 6500 K's are so superior that when the guy who owns Hamilton's
>		saw them demo'ed, he sent a cashier's check for 100 bulbs.

 What makes this one bulb superior in spectrum quality to the Metal Halide
and Actinic combination ?

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell)
Subject: Re: Doctor X Pet Center
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 17:57:58 GMT

From article <1992Sep4.143017.350@wam.umd.edu>, by harold@wam.umd.edu (James B. Harold):
> In article <1992Sep4.053055.196018@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> tes0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (THOMAS EDWIN SCHMIDLIN) writes:
> <...nasty (and IMHO typical) description of a Doctor pet store deleted...>
>>
>>It is truly a shame that stores such as this are allowed to exist.  Perhaps
>>the SPCA should get involved, because cruelty is exactly what is going on.
> 
> Didn't Doctor get in trouble with the SPCA a few years ago?  One of
> those mall pet store chains did.  Of course, that was for dogs
> and cats, I believe.  Not fish.  Now, before I make any rude
> remarks about people caring a lot more about cruelty to "cute"
> animals then to animals in general, can anybody tell me if the
> SPCA or other agencies has ever come down on a store like this
> for its treatment of fish, newts, frogs or other non-furry
> critters?

  What about the idea of injecting fish with dyes, which obviously
increases the mortality rate, if not only because of the stress..
> 
> -- 
> 
> James Harold                 "There is always an easy solution to
> harold@wam.umd.edu            every human problem -- neat, plausible,
>                               and wrong."    --  H. L. Mencken 
--
David M. Russell, Mechanical Eng. Dept.
Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676
(315) 268-9806 
russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (chris burns)
Subject: Re: Suggestions for a Long, Short Tank
Followup-To: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 16:19:48 GMT

In article <1992Aug29.050331.13286@Veritas.COM>, oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg
Kiselev) wrote:
> 
> russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell) writes:
> >for fish. My first thought was White Cload Mountain fish. The ones
> >As I understand it they come from small streams. A good choice?
> 
> Nope.  They are a cold-water fish.  Unless your house is always under 68F,
> I would suggest a different species.  Try something tropical.
> -- 

Yes, White Clouds are cold water fish, but they do just fine at tropical
temperatures (eg. 80F).  Not only do they do fine, they spawn at high temps
too.
In my experience anyway.

Chris
From: satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Licensing/Certification
Date: 3 Sep 92 22:49:30 GMT
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

In article <1992Aug30.235027.12427@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>, satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu writes:
> I'd like to know if there are any programs for licensing dealers
> and breeders of salt and/or fresh water fish. If so, how do I get
> in touch with these people?  If not, what would you include in
> this type of program?  Is this a bad idea?  Why? 
>  
> I called a pet store that sells fish and simply asked if he would
> buy zebra danio fry.  He said yes, at 1" and for 10 cents a
> piece.  That's it.  No questions asked.  Over the phone....
>  
>     The reason I am concerned, is that two months ago, I walked
> into a store and decided that I was finally ready to set up a
> tank.  Knowing nothing about fish, I asked for a 10 -gallon set
> up and three days later had a tank of fish.  How do I, the
> unsuspecting, naive consumer, know if their fish are 1) healthy,
> and 2) ???? What tells me that I can trust these people?  How can
> they (the dealers) know if the fish they recieve are healthy and
> etc.?  
>  
>     I'd like to do a 55 gallon set-up with irredescent sharks,
> bala sharks, columbian sharks, black ghosts, angel fish, and
> pictus cats.  But, are they telling me the right things, for the
> safety of my fish --and me?  Or are they telling me what it takes
> to get the sale?  Those sharks start at $4 here.  That's the most
> expensive one in my little tank (no big loss?).  But, to fill a
> tank with $4 to $8 fish, I'd like to be able to trust someone to
> know what they're doing.
>  
>  
> Thanks in advance,
OB>  
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> Anne Kaelber  (SATILLEY@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu)
> Miami University
> Oxford, OH   (not in Florida, Thank you. :)  )

Forgive me if I speak out of line here, but, has anybody seen this?  If it's a
bad idea -- tell me so I can quit expecting to see someone that cared enough to
let me know that I *AM* wasting my time.......


-- 
Anne Kaelber satilley@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Miami University
Oxford, Ohio
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] [Plants] Wanted - hard-water plant list
Date: 4 Sep 92 02:26:52 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
>The larger Vals did well in our Tang. tank with very >hard water.

Giant Brazilian vallisnaria did phenomenally well for me in Los Angeles
tap water, which is rather hard to begin with, when they were exposed to 
full direct sunlight (right in the south-facing window).  I had a terrible
filamentous algae problem, though...
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6806 alt.aquaria:4734
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Hurricane Andrews Damage
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:40:55 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Aug26.142224.7830@ttsi.lonestar.org> hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop) writes:

>This is due to hurricanes generally are surface and atmospheric phemon. and
>sub-surface structures will not be subject to 140+ MPH winds and wind driven
>debris. The above surface damage is unbelievable.

 I have researched a few scientific journals dealing with hurricane damage
and it can be quite extensive due to the very strong wave action and water
currents. It can take 7 or more years for damaged reefs to start to recover
with extensive juvenile growth. One news flash on CNN did state that a reef
in the key largo area received most of the hurricane damage. This news state-
ment seemed odd to me. Maybe they meant that a reef took most of the wave
damage and kept the waves from reaching shore. Obviously the wind damage
must have been low there.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria