HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: msm@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (Mitch S. Mohlman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: REQUEST: Info 4runner Explorer
Date: 7 Jan 93 22:38:54 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Chevron Oil Field Research, La Habra, CA.

In article <1992Dec31.172017.7591@informix.com> duncan@informix.com (Duncan Moore) writes:
>deleted stuff
>....
>opinions on the vehicles, and what you feel the invoice price (or
>what you paid..) for the vehicle.               ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                                                       |
There is a book called the "Kelly Book Book  <---------+
for New Cars".  This is not the small used car book, but a 5x8 size guide that details
the invoice price of all cars/trucks sold in the U.S.A.  The Credit Union I belong
to keeps the latest edition on hand, and I am sure you can get it at most libraries.
I found out about it last year when I was shopping around for a mini-van.

As for getting the best price, don't deal with the salesmen.  Go straight to the
fleet manager.  When we decided on the Toyota Previa, my wife started calling
all the dealers in our area asking the fleet managers (over the phone) how
much over invoice they charge (the margin). Some charge a percent (like 10%, or 12%),
and others a set dollar amount.  With the Kelly Blue Book info we could simply ask
the fleet manager what an option cost, and bingo it would be the same.

As for which vehicle to buy (Ford Explorer, or Toyota 4Runner):  I truely
believe that Ford, as well as the other two, have seen the light, and are
starting to make quality products.  I don't know if they have reached the
level of Toyota, or say Honda, but they are headed in the right direction.
Between my wife and I we have owned five Toyotas and nothing else.  Currently
we have a 1990 XtraCab v6 4x, and a 1992 Previa.  Prior to the Previa we
had a 1986 4Runner that we put 80K (totally trouble free) miles on and sold 
for nearly high blue book.  And prior to that we both Corollas (78, 79) which
we both put 120K trouble free miles.  The Explorer likely has more horse power, 
but I am certain the Toyota will out live it, and sell it when that time comes.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ralf@iqsc.COM (Ralf)
Subject: Re: Nissan Maxima Transmission
Organization: IQ Software Corp.
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1993 20:29:16 GMT

  I have an 89 Stanza with a 4 SP O/D tranny. I am not sure if ut is the
same one in the 87-88 Stanza, its Nissan none the less. I have not
experienced that problem. No matter what the car always shifts up and
down smoothly, even when its cold.....just FYI....maybe they fixed it in
1989!
Ralf
From: hamilton@eng.umd.edu (Andrew W. Hamilton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Can't set timing with 87 octane
Date: 6 Jan 93 03:14:58 GMT
Organization: Project GLUE, University of Maryland, College Park

Ever since I got my car four years ago ('78 Buick LeSabre) I've been
using 92 or 93 octane gas.  A couple weeks ago, however, I decided to
try the cheap stuff (87 octane).  The engine started to ping and
knock violently, so I retarded the timing a few degrees (no timing
light, just touch and go).  Well, the knocking and pinging went away,
but now the car misses and backfires during acceleration.  I can't
seem to find a good midpoint where it is advanced enough to
avoid backfiring, but retarded enough to avoid knocking.  Am I missing
something here, or should I just go back to using the expensive gas?

Andrew
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: 55 Chevy - No reverse
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 17:42:42 GMT

In article <pjay.328b@terapin.com> pjay@terapin.com (Paul Arnold) writes:
>I have a 55 Chevy car.  It's a Bel Air with a stock 235 engine, and a
>powerglide transmission.
>
>Until the other day, this car ran perfect.   I had come home from the store,
>and put the car into reverse to back it into place, and the car went nowhere.
>I can put the transmission INTO reverse, but it just doesn't move (engage?)  It
>as though it's still in neutral.  The car runs fine in drive (hi and low), and
>shifts just fine.
>So,  my question is, what could possibly be wrong with the transmission? 
>Anyone out there with ANY ideas?
>
>  --Paul   (pjay@terapin.com)

sounds like you lost your transmission - it can be rebuilt (which is
cheaper than replacing it) - 55 chevs are popular so you may be able
to find someone who works on them - good luck

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Subject: Re: Diagnostics
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:46:54 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.030047.9111@cerberus.bhpese.oz.au>, david@cerberus.bhpese.oz.au (David Masters) writes:
> What is this OTC4000 you mention? Sounds good. What can it do?
> 
Although I'm not familiar with all the things the Snap on version can do, I
can't see that any of the scan tools would be much different. The OTC 4000 is a
handheld scanner that plugs into the diagnostic link port on your vehicle. It
is made by the Owatonna Tool Company in Owatonna, Minnesota, USA. The scanner
basically monitors the diagnostic link and displays the values of the engine
parameters. It monitors all parameters and displays 4 on it's display. It also
has a recording capability so you can record the data stream and play it back
at a later date. It also has the capability to be connected to a VT100 type
monitor and then all data can be displayed at the same time. I believe there is
also a s/w module for this that includes the "Pathfinder" s/w that will help
you diagnose a problem. I'm not real familiar with that portion of it. I own a
OTC 2000 and find it quite handy for diagnostics. I also find it especially
useful to use the record function when Drag racing my '86 GN. I can then make a
run and afterwards play it back and see if I have enough fuel, or any knock
retard, etc.

Ron
mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:03:20 GMT

Yes, tri-chlor is a relative of carbon tetrachloride but is MUCH less toxic.
This stuff is available at your local building supply store.  I think
the brand is Parks and they call it carbo-trichlor.  However, a chemical supply
or inductrial supply shop would be MUCH cheaper for larger quantities.

Any shop in your area that does soldering on a large scale will probably have
a tri-chlor degreaser as it nicely dissolves the rosin flux used to clean the
metals.  They could provide to you their source.  The little can of the stuff
from Home Depot would let you test.  I use it for most everything as it doesn't
eat most of the plastics that lacquor thinner does.  But TEST FIRST.  Lucas uses
some very cheap plastics.  But hey, I don't have to tell you this.  This is SOL
land...

Enjoy,

Rick

------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /
My opinions are my own, until they're worth something, at
which point they become the property of my employer...
------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: erik@peewee.nwc.navy.mil (Erik van Bronkhorst       Code 3814                               Phone 939-1421)
Subject: Re: sugar in gas?
Organization: NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV, China Lake
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:16:37 GMT

In article <31710b47@ofa123.fidonet.org> Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org writes:
> ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu 
>   (Richard Banks)
> 
> > In a previous article, sherod@newton.Colorado.EDU (Scott Herod) says:
>
> >>I was wondering if there is some way to test for sugar/honey in the fuel 
> >>tank.  It's a long story involving a dog, a stereo, and the phone company
> >>but I am afraid I may now have some strange substances in the fuel
>
> > I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to hear about this one.
> > If it's nothing to private please post the story to talk.bizarre.
>
>   Please tell me if I'm wrong, but the impression I got after 
>taking the chem class that all mech engineering students have to 
>take is that sugar doesn't dissolve in gasoline.  I even tried it 
>at home and the sugar just sat at the bottom of the beaker.
>
>   
>
>... Larry.Mc.Donald, N6ZMB, Fullerton, California!  <cough, cough>
>___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.10
>
>--- Maximus 2.01wb


Indeed, if granulated (table) sugar is used, it will simply clog the
line and filter.  Sugar does not dissolve in gas very well.  Powdered
sugar might be capable of damaging an auto engine if someone was evil
enough to try it.  Things that make the fuel burn much too hot such as
napthalene moth balls dissolve readily...

-- 
Erik van Bronkhorst KC6UUT DoD#4342585443 AMA#[classified]
"Truth is false and logic lost, now the fourth dimension is crossed..."
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AC Delco oil filters?
Date: 1 Jan 93 20:15:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

   >>>Subject: Re: AC Delco oil filters? >>>Message-ID:
   <43559@gremlin.nrtc.northrop.com> >>>Date: 31 Dec 92 04:20:22 GMT
   >>>Sender: news@gremlin.nrtc.northrop.com >>>Reply-To:
   jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee)


   >>>>
   >>>> I bought a PF13 because the K-Mart book had the wrong filter listed for
   >>>>my '90 LeBaron GT with the 3 liter V6 (they listed the same filter that
   >>>>4 uses). It looks like it will fit, it is the same size as the FRAM PH16
   >>>>that I ordinarily use, although the AC box says it crosses to FRAM PH396

JL<>>>AC is the only filter I use, and that's on my GM, Toyota and Suzuki cars.
   >>>My friends use AC on their Jeep. FRAM is the one I stay away from.
   >>>They seem to be more cheaply built that AC-Delco ones. That's my opinion
   >>>after having used both.

JL<>>>Filters as it turns out are quite interchangable, and I have seen the
   >>>same part number crossing problems you describe. For example, a AC
   >>>PF53 on the AC box will cross to a FRAM PH-xx, but on the PH-xx box,
   >>>the cross comes back to a PF54. Then GM changed the spec on the Geo
   >>>Tracker from PF54 to PF1245. So we have PF53==PF54==PF1245.

    ( rest deleted )

One other thing to consider... If you do not use the number filter that
the filter maker shows for the car they WILL NOT WARRANTY any failures
that result from a filter problem...such as a tear or grove in the
gasket that causes the car to loose all its oil...that has happened
BTW...Standard oil change on a older Lincoln...no leaks when it left
shop..10 miles away while on frwy customer observes thjat oil suddenly
comes on..by the time he gets off the frwy the engine is making terrible
noise...after phone call etc. we tow car to out shop and check it
out...oil all underneath car but no sign of where from... fill engine
with oil, start car and observe oil SQUIRTING  between filter and block.
Remove filter and find that it  the gasket NEATLY CRACKED! Call filter
manufacturer and they send a rep over. He checks car, takes the filter.
3 days later they ADMIT to a faulty gasket and pay for all necessary
repairs. ( short block ) about $1500..Included with the papers of the
settlement was a copy of there warranty...and it spelled out quite
clearly that this type of incident is only covered when proper filter
application is used.
                                                  Soap box off!
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                             
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: bob@beamlab.ps.uci.edu (bob prohaska)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
Date: 4 Jan 93 08:07:54 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: physics department

In article <4201.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
(Dave Williams) wrote:

>  I'm now the happy owner of a solvent tank.  My wife picked it up at a


> before I put it into use.  The question is, what do I put in it?  It


At the risk of provoking a torrent of bad jokes, has anybody considered
using the stuff sold for lighting barbecues?  It has a reasonable flash
point, dosen't smell too bad, and can't be highly toxic (I hope!).

It's also rather easy to get although the average package size is no bigger
than a half gallon.  Probably a phone call to a local refiner will locate
a source at bulk prices.

I've used small amounts for cleanup solvent, and it seems to work fine.

Any experiences with parts dissolving or the like?

bob
From: clone@west.darkside.com (Clone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: shocking car
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:34:50 GMT
Organization: The Dark Side of the Moon +1 408 245 SPAM

My car sometimes shocks me when I get out of it. How can I prevent 
this(other than not getting out)?
From: dlu@tfm.com (Doug Urner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Quartz Headlight Conversions
Date: 7 Jan 93 06:35:04 GMT
Organization: tfm Associates, Ltd.

I want to replace the sealed beam (US style) headlights on my 1970
SAAB 95 with replaceable bulb (European style) quartz headlights.  Does
anybody have recommendations about what brand to buy?  Or best of all
can anyone point me at a source for the headlights that were used in
the European cars -- especially the later (1971 on) ones that had wipers
for the headlights?  Used is ok.

Thanks lots, Doug
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: will@wixer.cactus.org (Bill Staniewicz)
Subject: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Organization: Real/Time Communications
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 23:34:42 GMT

I was just watching C-span today and they featured a
soviet engine company on the Moscow Evening News.

They produce air-cooled diesel engines that are claimed
to out perform the liquid cooled variety and can operate
at extremely high and low temperatures. Also, they are
supposed to be cheaper.

Did anyone see this program and have any comments to these
claims? Also, would anyone know the name of this company
and some information about the engines?

-- 
Bill
will@wixer.cactus.org
From: an078@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Carter E. Bing)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford Tempo (Heater Problem)
Date: 8 Jan 1993 13:01:26 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: an078@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Carter E. Bing)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu



	Greetings,

	I have a 85 Ford Tempo and the heater is dead. The car has a new
engine and the heater core is new. I took it to a local Ford dealer in
my area and seem to think that the problem is with the engine head not
allowing to the water to circulate to the the heater core. For a mere
1000 K they can put a new head on my engine and they think that will
solve the problem. 

	After talking with a friend or two they seem to think, like I
do, that the dealer is trying to stick one in me. Their reasoning is
that if the water wasn`t circulating through my engine then the car
would run hot which is far from the case. I was wondering if anyone on
the net has run into a similar problem and if they could recommend a
solution.


		Thanks,

		Carter


-- 
                      
	"The noblest of pursuits can hardly be thought much by men whose
	 own way of life run counter to it."
				Socrates from The Republic of Plato
From: zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com (Mike Zintel)
Subject: Re: Madness due to carb backf
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:04:04 GMT

In article <10598.77.uupcb@cutting.hou.tx.us> ken.akridge@cutting.hou.tx.us (Ken Akridge)  writes:
>     I had the same symptoms on my 1979 Scout.  But after a while,
>the backfire symptoms changed.  The electonic module inside the
>distributor died.  After replacement, the engine would run smoothly
>for a few months.  The SECOND time this happened was when I started
>looking for a replacement distributor. 

I am currently on my second control module of my second distributer.
I think I get the message now. Thanks.








-- 

Mike Zintel		zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com
Motorola Mobile Data
Bothell, WA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alavigne@bmerh930.bnr.ca (Andrew Lavigne)
Subject: Steering wheel angle
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Distribution: na
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:49:48


I have a 1989 Civic Si.  I brought my car for a D.O.T inspection at Canadian
Tire (kinda like a K-Mart or Sears quick stop auto place) which I needed to
transfer my car into my name from a lease company.

After taking possession of my car, I soon noticed that when the car is
travelling in a straight line, the steering wheel is no longer 'straight'.
The steering wheel was *perfectly* 'straight' earlier when I had driven the
car to the garage parking lot for the inspection.

Upon talking to the service guy afterwards, he said that only an alignment
could have changed the steering wheel angle.  Perhaps.  Whatever the reason,
the steering wheel angle has definitely changed.

Anyone out there know if it is possible to have the steering wheel angle
changed without an alignment??  The car still tracks perfectly; it doesn't
pull off to the side.

Thanks,
Andrew
alavigne@bnr.ca
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: overheating Ford Van
Date: 6 Jan 93 09:27:32 GMT
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa

>and the thermostat.  After putting everything back together, when heating up, 
>the temperature gauge kept going up into the overheat region.  I discovered mix
>coming from the overflow hose, so figured I would replace the radiator cover as
>well. 

> After all this, the temp. gauge now goes up almost to the overheat
>region when warming up, then slowly drops to midrange, then back up, etc.  

	The above is a classic sign that the thermostat has been installed
upside - down!!!

Keith
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"If we pay dogfood salespeople more than we   :  Dept of Management
 do teachers, we should not be surprised if   :  Rhodes University
 our dogs eat like kids, and our kids end     :  Grahamstown, 6140
 up reading like dogs."                       :  Rep of South Africa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: browncd@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Carlton D Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GM ECM Serial Data
Date: 9 Jan 1993 01:07:38 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department at Rose-Hulman
Reply-To: browncd@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Carlton D Brown)
NNTP-Posting-Host: o233-05.nextwork.rose-hulman.edu

Attention people.

I have been fiddling with the ECM ALDL serial output on my 1987 Fiero GT.   
I want to find a way to read data from in into a computer.  (So far I can  
only get a readout with p's and x's.)  I have modified the signal output  
voltage to match the required input by my computer.  Also, I have been  
able to determine that the data rate is 2400 baud (with aid from an  
oscilloscope).  Can someone tell me how many start bits, stop bits, and  
whatever the signal coming from the car has?  (Any other information on  
this signal would also be appreciated.)  Who can I contact to find out how  
to decode the signal?  Is 2400 baud correct?  I want to build a digital  
dashboard for my car, and I think that accessing the ALDL port would cut  
expenses quite a bit.  Any help is good help.

                                  - Carl
From: shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu (David S. Shy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Aerostar Air Problem -------------
Date: 6 Jan 1993 00:44:38 GMT
Organization: U.C. Berkeley Open Computing Facility
NNTP-Posting-Host: maelstrom.berkeley.edu


My dad's having a problem which is driving him nuts.  We have
a '90 Ford Aerostar (extended length) w/ high-capacity air conditioner 
& the 4.0L V6.  The problem is that the air conditioner keeps on
dying.  It has been recharged a number of time times and we are pretty
sure that there are no leaks.  There would be cold air coming out
for a while after the new charges (at least 60% of the time), but 
it would last no more than a week.  Another scenerio is that the air
would warm up after about 30 min. of operation and won't blow
cold air until about 3 hrs later.  (It just switches between these
two scenerios...)

For a while we thoguht it was a leak, but many people have taken a look at it
and told us that it was fine.  Then we figure that it might be somethign
w/ the switches... if there is a recall or soemthign (we haven't
heard anythign from Ford about this) we would really appreciate
the info or unless someone who has dealt w/ this problem before
can provide some advice.  Any comments will be appreciated!
Thanks in advance.

david shy
shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: ++Where can I find NADA books?++
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 9 Jan 93 21:00:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I would like to find where I can purchase NADA books for my interest
-> in used cars.  Do you know where I can find them?

G.K. Publishing                 N.A.D.A. Blue Book              04/92
5904 Janet
Taylor MI 48180
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Adiabatic engines (was Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines)
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 9 Jan 93 21:14:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Quite a few years ago there was a feature in Popular Science about a
-> gasoline adiabatic engine that Smokey Yunick invented.  It was a

 I never could figure out how he kept it from detonating its guts out
after preheating the intake charge; his explanations of how it worked
didn't make sense, and the couple of journalists who drove the converted
car said it was a dog, quite different from Yunick's claims.

 In my humble opinion, it was a hoax.  Yunick has heavy credentials, but
I flat don't beleive the engine ever worked as he claimed.  Evidently
none of the carmakers who sniffed around it believed it either, or it
failed to perform as advertised when tested.
                       
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech