HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: prasad@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov
Subject: Extra Large Washer & Dryer recommendation needed !
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:53:00 GMT


I am wondering if any has product reviews/experience of Extra Large
Washer & Dryer, can you please email me one.

Thanks in advance.

erabelli
erabelli@killians.gsfc.nasa.gov
From: jfarran@rtfm.acs.uci.edu (Joseph Farran)
Subject: Re: Realtor sales commiss
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 25 Jan 93 19:38:16 GMT
Distribution: misc

In article <C14sHq.E8t@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:
>
>Realtors don't like low value properties.  If this is really a $100k
>property, you can probably do better.  If it's a $10k property, 10%
>is on the low side.  I've paid $1000 on a sale which netted me $1000,
>and didn't gripe a bit.

We sold our 1 acre parcel some years ago by owner and saved lots of
$money$ on Realtors commission.   

Just get a nice big sign and post it on the lot :-)

Joseph

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dunne@math.okstate.edu (Ed Dunne)
Subject: Re: Power and current
Keywords: Power and current
Organization: Oklahoma State University, Math Department
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 16:47:05 GMT

clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:

>>>If I have an appliance with a heating element rated at 850 watts, how
>>>much current (in amps) is it going to draw in a standard 110V circuit?

...

>We'll presume, for the moment, that the "appliance" contains only
>the heating element, and not additional circuitry that draws a lot of
>power.     

... TRUE 

>>So...this is one of the few instances where Watts are equivalent to
>>Volt-Amps (VA).

... 

>>Thus, current is found by dividing watts (VA) by voltage.  In this case,
>>850VA/110A=7.7A.

>Or 850/120=7A (120 is the nominal no-load voltage on a "110V circuit", or
>maybe even 850/125.  Remember that the voltage can vary by up to about 10%,
>so the plate rating should be relative to the highest permissible voltage
>on the line.  That being said, I'd personally call this 10A for circuit
>planning purposes.

>>No need to worry about start-up or overload surges either...

>Actually, there are start-up surges with resistive heating elements.
>Most resistive loads (lamps and heaters) exhibit a positive
>temperature:resistance coefficient.  That is, as the temperature goes
>up, the resistance goes up too.  The surge wouldn't be that large,
>not like a motor with startup surges of a factor of 3 or more, or
>an incandescent bulb where surge is probably on the order of a factor
>of 1.5 to 2.  But 30% isn't unreasonable - I wouldn't put a fast-blo
>8A fuse in series with that appliance...
>-- 


The appliance that I originally wrote about is an old Italian
coffee-maker.  So the load _is_ purely resistive. The switches on the
machine needed replacing after many years of service. I had gone to
Radio Shack and bought the small switches with the highest amp-rating
they had on hand, figuring that that would be good enough (6 amps).  After
blowing the switches and the fuses twice, I tried looking through my
old physics books to find the critical formula.  There was lots on
Maxwell's equations and other swell stuff, but not what I wanted. 
Since the circuit has a 15 amp fuse in it and at the time of the
second blow the only other item on the circuit was a light with two 75
Watt bulbs, I do believe that there is a significant start-up surge.
However, the fuse and switch blew when I turned on the machine when it
was still slightly warm.  Hmmm.

Thanks to everyone who replied.  I have now found 10 amp switches that
are working fine -- so far. 

EGD
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 00:46:58 GMT
Keywords: Cat, Bird, Pounce, Kill

In article <maoh.727643621@phyast.nhn.uoknor.edu> maoh@phyast.nhn.uoknor.edu (Maureen O'Halloran) writes:

>My dog totally ignores birds although he goes nuts over squirrels.
>("If I keep dancing around under the tree barking, one of thems BOUND
>to fall down sooner or later") Birds on the other hand are totally
>boring. His ancestory is a total mystery but apparently doesn't
>include bird-dog.  There are lots of birds at my feeder, including
>eating off the ground, they just fly off momentarily if he wanders too
>close.

Try a terrier. My Scottie also finds birds totally uninteresting. He also
ignores squirrels - *rats* can take five years off his age, though.

You may have trouble keeping a terrier inside, though. Some of them
eventually learn a little French.:-)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I was told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life
                    | to be as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bobw@procase.com (Bob Weissman)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Water leaking from TOP of water heater
Date: 26 Jan 93 01:49:40 GMT
Reply-To: bobw@procase.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Procase Corporation, San Jose, CA, USA

My 40g natural gas water heater has suddenly developed a very
small leak from its top.

Where the white (fiberglass?) part meets the grey metal round
"lid" part, I have a very slow water leak.  Like one drop every
few seconds.  It drips down the front of the water heater.

There is no obvious (to me) fix for this; everything seems tight.

Anyone out there have an idea what this is and how to fix it?
Or do I have to bite the bullet and call a plumber?

Thanks!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kgeib@truckee.qualcomm.com (Ken Geib)
Subject: Re: Dispute with Home Owners Assn - Advice Sought
Organization: Qualcomm, Inc., San Diego, CA
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 01:32:27 GMT

bsardis@netcom.com (Barry Sardis) writes:

>I own a condo. I engaged a mangement company to locate a tenant.
>This is the same company that manages the complex for the HOA. The
>tenants have a dog and they keep it chained on the patio.

>Some residents complained about the dog. The HOA CC&Rs do not allow
>pets in the complex. There are lots of cats in the complex, roaming
>free.

>I have had conversations with the management company on the situation.
>There have been some discussions and compromises. The management
>company sends threatening letters and fines my account. I wrote a
>letter asking for a dialog, but the next letter was more of the same
>without even an acknowledgement of my letter.

>I intend to speak directly to the board. There are numerous other
>violations of the CC&Rs evident in the complex. I am not normally
>one who makes waves.                                                     
Definitely talk to the board.  They are the ones ultimately responsible
for the management company, but don't expect a lot of give.  You did
accept the CC&Rs when you purchased the place.  There may be other 
violations in the complex, but no one's complaining about them and from
my experience, action doesn't ever really take place unless someone
complains (as in your case with the dog).
 
One option you haven't mentioned is trying to change the CC&Rs.

>What I want to know is do I have any legal recourse to get them to 
>stop the harrassment? Can I take them to small claims court?
When considering legal action, keep in mind that you are a member of the
HOA and, in a sense, you'd be taking yourself to court.  You and the rest
of the HOA end up paying the legal costs in higher HOA dues.

----------
Ken Geib
From: judson@watserv.ucr.edu (Mike Judson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Power and current
Date: 26 Jan 93 01:39:08 GMT
Reply-To: judson@watserv.ucr.edu

In article <C1Bq16.2EA@math.okstate.edu> dunne@math.okstate.edu (Ed Dunne)  
writes:
> If I have an appliance with a heating element rated at 850 watts, how
> much current (in amps) is it going to draw in a standard 110V circuit?


P*V=I
thus,
(110 V) * (.850 Kw) = 93.5 A

--
You know what would make a good story?  Something about a clown 
who makes people happy, but inside he's real sad.  Also, he has 
severe diarrhea.

                         Jack Handy

judson@watserv.ucr.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hbb@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (harlan.b.braude)
Subject: Re: Breaker won't reset
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 13:39:18 GMT

In article <C19ozw.4yr@srgenprp.sr.hp.com> , brett@sr.hp.com writes:
>[...]
>The problem is that I can't get the breaker to reset.  The lever moves,
but
>it won't 'click' off or back on.  It just stays in the tripped state.
>
There are some breakers that need to be pressed <OFF> in order to reset
them; when the breaker trips, it goes to a special overload position.
On such breakers, this behavior is different than when one manually
turns them off.
-- 
Harlan B. Braude
hbb@karin.att.com
From: pauld@cs.washington.edu (Paul Barton-Davis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: leaking self-built window, ideas sought ...
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:23:22 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Precipitating Pendulums Postal Party Poopers


        I just finished building 2 casement windows.
        The one that gets the most exposure to the rain
        is leaking from penetration of the bottom-most
        seal.
       
        The windows are 1/2" insulated glass installed with
        1/8" glazing tape against the outer stop *only*.
        This was modelled on detailed inspection (perhaps
        not detailed enough) of numerous commercial
        window units.
       
       
       
     glazing --+| |
       tape    || | <---- glass sealed unit
               v| |			   
               	| |			   
  outer       +|| |+-+			   
  stop --->  /||+-+| |  <---- inner stop   
            / +------+			   
          -+   	     |			   
          |	     |
          |    sash  |
          |	      
        	      
       
        I'm coming to the conclusion that I did something
        wrong, and that perhaps I:
       
        	- should have compressed the glazing tape more
        	- should have put tape on both sides
        	- should have used putty or similar on the
        	     underside of the glass
       
        The next ones I build will use RCT's window gaskets,
        but in the meantime, does anyone have any ideas
        why the seal might be leaking ?
       
        I will probably put in a thin caulk top bead to try
        and solve the problem, unless I remove the glass
        and install a glazing gasket instead.
       
-- thanks
-- paul
-- 
hybrid rather than pure; compromising rather than clean;    | Militant Agnostic
distorted rather than straightforward; ambiguous rather than| I Don't Know
articulated; both-and rather than either-or; the difficult  |   and You Don't
unity of inclusion rather than the easy unity of exclusion. |   Know Either
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 19:56:12 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

save@cpva.saic.com writes:

> (James Barrett) writes:
> > I've got a twist on the problem with a neighbor's cat (I don't know 
> > which one).  The cat walks all over our cars leaving nice dirty 
> > paw-prints.  It's been awfully muddy in these parts lately and it's
> > driving me up the wall!  Is there anything I could line the driveway 
> > with just to discourage the cat from crossing where the cars are?
> 
> I'll bet the majority of paw prints are across your hood. If so, the cats 
> aren't taking a shortcut, they're taking a nap on the warm hood after you 
> come home in the evening.  Nice and toasty up there on a cold winters night. 

Well, the cats that were living across from me certainly weren't
taking a nap; they'd hop up on the louvers, usually on the right
side, use them as stairs to get to the roof, slide down the 
windshield, stroll along the hood, and hop off the nose. In the
summertime. Usually right after I'd wash the car, of course.

Fortunantly, they're no longer around, and the owner has moved
as well. (No, I didn't do them in; I did, however, find one of
her cats in one of my back yards, dead and stiff. Bagged it for
her, and loaned a pick and shovel so she could bury it.)

I realize cats have an exploring nature, but I just don't see what
is that interesting about an '81 RX-7...

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: mcnally@wsl.dec.com (Mike McNally)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Date: 26 Jan 1993 00:47:45 GMT
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: venice.pa.dec.com

System Janitor (-Mike) asks about the consequences of his cat
on another's property:

> do you shoot him before or after you see if I can/will keep
> him away?

Personally, I don't think I'd shoot at all (it'd mean going out
and buying a pellet gun), but that doesn't mean I wouldn't attempt
to fix the problem.  If the cat repeatedly shows up on my property,
causing what I consider to be damage, and though I've tried to get
the owner to keep the cat away it still comes around, I'd file
suit in small claims court.  I figure aiming at the cat owner's
pocketbook would be more effective than aiming at the cat's butt.

Note that I really, really like cats.  I have three.  They never
go outside, or at least not without me or my wife in hot pursuit.


--
==============y=o=u='=r=e===a=l=l===s=t=e=a=m=e=d===u=p===j=o=e================
   Mike +   Software +   Digital Equipment +   Western Software +      mcnally@
McNally +    Laborer +         Corporation +         Laboratory +   wsl.dec.com
===============================================================================
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: No Hot Water!
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 22:29:36 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
Distribution: na

lsnow@ncrclm.ClemsonSC.NCR.COM (Linda Snow) writes:

In article <1993Jan19.012921.122@sco.com> rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman) writes:
>>>We just completed a new home of 5000 square feet. Only 2 adults (and a
>                                  ^^^^

>Good God!  How many rooms does that represent and what are you going
>to do with all of them?  I consider my house roomy and yours is >2 1/2
>times the size of mine!


Well I have a home with that much space, counting my finished basement office
and it is PACKED.  Indeed, I also rent a mini-warehouse, soon to be moved
to a barn we're about to have built.  My wife and I each have two major
hobbies/avocations and we've collected almost 20 years' worth of stuff.
That eats room pretty fast.  I couldn't imagine going back to a smaller
place.

Just the two of us,
John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 17:10:17 GMT
Subject: plumbing question
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Well, here's a plimbing question:

Mu kid's nursery school has a drinking fountain attached to the 
cold water inlet pipe that feeds the sink. I've looked at it
briefly and saw the inlet pipe split into 2 pipes with 1 for the
sink and the other for the fountain. There appears to be some kind
of in-line something in the fountain's pipe. There is plenty of
pressure coming out of the sink's pipe, but the fountain is down
to a trickle. The custodian evidently looked at it and tried to
ream out any obstruction to no avail (there wasn't an obstruction).
Anyone know what that in-line part is? Is it for back-pressure or
something like that? How do I test it?

Thanks,
Howard Moss
hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 05:43:02 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

brett@sr.hp.com () writes:

>Brad Rullman (brad@ssd.intel.com) wrote:
>> I have a problem:  a neighborhood cat likes to hang around under the  ...
>>
>> Is there some kind of repellant I can use on the ground under the
>> cedar tree to discourage this kind of anti-social activity?  

>A dog?
>A .22?
>A few rat-traps?

You mean you weren't serious?  

Works for me.  

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Deer in the yard
Organization: Lachman Technology, Incorporated, Naperville, IL
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 21:53:25 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.201751.3344@eplrx7.es.duPont.com> walker@eplrx7.es.duPont.com (Scott Walker) writes:
>My father lives backed up to some woods and has seen many bushes eaten
>to the nubbins by deer.
...
>...  As food becomes scarcer, they get bolder and will routinely
>feed on his bushes even after being scared away.
>    We'd really like to know of any methods which have succeeded!

Venison chilli?
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              Lachman Technology, Incorporated
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
 __       There's nothing quite like the pitter-patter of little feet,
 \/                   followed by the words "Daddy!  Yay!"
From: champlin@pa.dec.com (Virgil Champlin)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: leaking self-built window, ideas sought ...
Date: 27 Jan 93 14:18:18
Organization: DEC Network Systems Laboratory
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: virgil.pa.dec.com
In-reply-to: pauld@cs.washington.edu's message of 26 Jan 93 23:23:22 GMT

I have had pretty good luck following advice in Rob Thallon's and
Charlie Wing's books on site built windows and skylights.  I've never
had leaks and this includes a pair of site built skylights that have had
up to 30" of rain in a month.  Two conventions I use are: 1. Glass to
wood contact should be avoided so use glazing tape on both sides.  2.
Caulk over the glazing tape on the outside with a compatible caulk.  I
use a product called Silglaze (Dow or GE) that I get from my local glass
shop but only because it is guaranteed compatible with the outer seal
on insulated units I buy there.  You should really ask yourself.  Please
let me know if you need references for the two books.  -virgil

--
    Virgil Champlin			champlin@pa.dec.com
					Palo Alto, CA
	I like satire.  I'm just not very good at it.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: Pine Floors
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:22:31 GMT

rickt@rmtc.paramax.com (Rick Thompson [RMTC/ISP]) writes:

>doesn't a good polyurithane (sp?) provide a hard surface?  At least it should
>protect the floors from being scratched.

Nope. Whatever you coat it with won't make any difference at all when
your aunt comes over and stomps around all day in her high heels... oak
won't dent and pine will. 

This was recently illustrated to me when I was in a Charleston SC bar which
had a coffee room sticking off to one side. The bar's floor was made from
beautiful old growth straight grain heart pine remilled from old beams 
(you'll not find harder pine floors). The coffee room's floors were made 
from bullsh*t red oak from Home Depot (or wherever). The floors were put
down at the same time. These floors are smack dab next to each other and
it is easy to see that the pine floor has suffered *much* more wear than
the oak floor, which seemed unmarred.

You'll be hard pressed to find nice heart pine floors for much less
than $3.00-$5.00 a board foot (if you know where, tell me :-), probably
more. You can get BS red oak from Home Depot for less than $3.00.

-Mike
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: Electrical wiring-- 'Sharing' a 220V circuit
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 23:41:36 GMT

In article <Jan20.163026.48896@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU () writes:
>I'm putting a 5kw 220 electric resistance heater in my garage.  It 
>must live on a 30A circuit.  This will leave considerable excess
>ampacity over the rated load + 25% required (to my understanding)
>by the NEC.  I'd like to run some lighting (say 200W max) at 110V
>on one side of the 220 circuit. (This would enable me to keep the other
>circuit in the garage as a power-tools-only circuit.)

>Would this be safe and acceptable?

Run the 240V feed to a subpanel in the garage.  Run the heater off of one
240V breaker and the lights off a second circuit in the subpanel.  You may
want to consider a heaver feed than 30A so you can add more circuits in the
future if you desire.

-Mike
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: brett@sr.hp.com ()
Subject: Breaker won't reset
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:07:06 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.1]

Last night we had the breaker on the dish-washer/disposal circuit trip.
At least I assume it tripped.  We tried to turn on the disposal and
nothing happened.  After checking inside, I checked the breakers and found
that one tripped.

I don't know why it tripped either.  There was no unusual load (the disposal
wan't clogged or jammed).

The problem is that I can't get the breaker to reset.  The lever moves, but
it won't 'click' off or back on.  It just stays in the tripped state.

So, do I need to replace the breaker?  Do they tend to die in this way (the
house is about 10 years old)?  Is there something else I can do or something
simple (ie obvious) I missed?

Thanks.

--

							Brett Carver
							(707) 577-4344
							brett@sr.hp.com

PS: why can't this type of thing wait until AFTER we've moved out
   (which will happen in a week or two)?  
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gfadel@eng.clemson.edu (George Fadel)
Subject: Re: AutoDesk Landscaping Computer Program
Reply-To: gfadel@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:32:59 GMT

A friend of mine got Landcadd and Autocad and used them in his landscaping business.

I helped him install the programs, and they were impressive.  I do recommend them
(no affiliation to autodesk or to Landcadd developpers), however, if I remember
well, the cost is in the order of thousands, not $79.  

---

Georges M. Fadel 
Mechanical Engineering Department
Clemson University


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house