HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: king@reasoning.com (Dick King)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: B. Rohloff on Rohloff chains
Date: 24 Dec 92 00:07:55 GMT
Organization: Reasoning Systems, Inc., Palo Alto, CA

In article <4sR891frv4@bi-l003.bi-link.owl.de> H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke) writes:
>
>>I don't believe for a minute that Rohloff bores non round holes
>>in his components nor that he has oriented cam ground pins.
>
>We don't know what 'oriented cam ground pins' are but we bet a
>box of 20 "Paulaner Dunkles Hefe Weissbier" against a bottle of
>original Southern Comfort that all roller plates of all Rohloff
>chains do have non round holes! The exact shape of the holes is
>called trochoide which you can create by deviding a round gateau
>in three parts (of 120 degree) and then moving them a little bit
>away from the center and connecting the circle periphery with
>three tangent lines.
>
> ...
>
>However,the problem with increasing the clearance is that
>    ...
>  - The chain can be twisted excessively around its longitudinal
>    axis causing bad gear shifting qualities.
>
>This is the first point where the construction of the Rohloff
>chain shows substantial advantages.
>The inside of the integral bushings, the 'holes', provide a 120
>degree segment of the same diameter as the pin increasing the
>contact area between pins and integral bushings. Elastic
>deformation is therefore very low.
>In addition, the force per area is reduced, in turn reducing the
>wear of pins and bushings.
>The opposite side of the contact area allows more space of
>clearance than a conventional chain, with the result that the
>chain achieves a side to side flexibility of more than 2 degree
>per link. However, the twist around its longitudinal axis is
>only 90 degrees per meter (79 links).

The slack is still there.  Why doesn't it increase torsional flexibility [bad]
as well as lateral flexibility [good]?

-dk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: david@postman.gr.osf.org (David George)
Subject: Chain Wear
Organization: OSF RI Grenoble
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 11:27:21 GMT


There seem to be regular posts on the subject of chain wear.  Here are my
experiences.  I commute 7 miles a day, with just over a 1000 foot of
climbing on the return.  I do this on an old MTB with a Shimano Exage
chainset (steel chain rings), Shimano 600 rear mech, XT front mech.  This
is summer and winter riding on very dusty roads.  I oil my chain when it gets
brown.  The last chain I had was a SEDIS, which I snapped about 2 months back.
At this point the chain had covered 4000 miles and was totally 'dead' by the
time it broke.  I threw it in the trash and bought a new Shimano chain (annoying
because of that stupid spare pin needed to break and reconnect the chain).

Now I have absolutely no slippage whatsoever, changing is still super smooth,
even with the ancient front and rear Exage indexing levers.  I also figure 4000
miles on the SEDIS (design flaws and all) is pretty good value.

So what are you guys doing to your chains ?  I can only assume that my lack of
oiling helped save my chain from wear.


David.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke)
Organization: Private Site in Berlin
Subject: Re: Sach-Maillard Aris Freewheel 7 spd S
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 93 13:00:00 +0100
X-Mailer: CrossPoint v2.1 R/211
X-Gateway: ZCONNECT UI bi-link.owl.de [RFC/Connect IIIb DOS v0.46]


On 01.01.93, barilj@ERE.UMontreal.CA writes:


 >	I have a Phil Wood hub and i would like to find
 >a freewheel that will be SIS 7 spd compatible.  I already
 >have Shimano 105 shift lever (SIS 7s) and the rear derailleur
 >is a Deore DX.

I would try a Shimano Dura-ace or a Shimano 600 freewheel.


 >	My question is: Is Aris freewheels 7 spd are SIS
 >compatible and are they fit in a 126mm wide dropout ?

Sachs 7speed is spaced 7*5mm. It's not exactly what Shimano does, but might
work.

I don't understand the second part of your question.



Ciao
Hajo

--
Hans-Joachim Zierke  ##  Tel.: +49-30 / 394 8445  ##  Fax: +49-30 / 394 8447
                         h.zierke@bi-link.owl.de
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kc@core.rose.hp.com (Kurt Chan)
Subject: Wheel Wonderings
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 02:18:04 GMT
Organization: HP, Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

I'm getting some new road clinchers for training and a lighter pair for
competition.  I weigh about 150lbs and ride a 55cm frame.  My current
leanings:

              Training             Competition
              --------            -------------
Rims:          Mavic MA2          Mavic Open 4 Argent

Hubs:          DA or Ultegra      Nukeproof
               32/32              32/28
               8spd cassette      8spd cassette

Spokes:        14/15, 3x          15/16, 3x
               front and rear     front and rear

Nipples:       Brass              Alloy

Tires:         Spec Transition    Michelin Supercompe HD
               700x23             700x18


I'm interested in what other netters ride, and also:

- If heavier 14 straight gauge spokes have a strength advantage
  and should be used on the rear wheel instead of 14-15,
 
- If Brass nipples have a strength advantage

- If Mavic Open 4 "Argent" rims are just "silver anodized"

- Anything else in component selection that affects wheel longevity
  and trueness (given the same expert wheelbuilding practices)

If anything, I'd prefer to err on the conservative side for the
training set, since I prefer to spend my time riding rather than
trueing! 


Thanks,

Kurt Chan

       Hewlett-Packard, Information Networks Div   Ph: 916-785-5621  
       8000 Foothills Blvd, MS R5NF               Fax: 916-785-2875  
       Roseville, CA 95747-6588          email: kc@core.rose.hp.com  

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: aluminum vs. carbon fiber
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 01:40:54 GMT

flakebit@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (skully the automaton.) writes:
>may be time to try somthing a little different. I haven't heard anything neg-
>ative about either frame but i have heard that most carbon fiber frames are in-
>destructable by humans. Any sugesstions? Thanks alot.

I don't know where you heard that.  Carbon fiber frames break quite often, bot
road and mountain bike frames.  I can't really see the point of a carbon fiber
mountain bike frame anyway.  None of them are much lighter than steel.
Cannondale 3.0 mtb frames have also had a nasty habit of breaking.  I beleive
the V700 you refer to is a new 'dale frame so I don't know if it's had the
same problem.
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca (Ken Iisaka (the mad pianist))
Subject: Re: Phil Wood hubs
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, University of Ottawa
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 92 07:00:07 GMT

In article <Bzrsy7.L9I@news.water.ca.gov> stevec@water.ca.gov writes:
>
>I don't know about Phil Wood hubs, but usually hub makers do away with QR
>in order to have a solid axle which means more strength.  It also (usually)
>means more weight.

Actually, a solid axle with two nuts and washers is lighter than a hollow axle
with a quick release skewer.  Think about it.  The weight of two nuts and
washers, and the extra grams of the axle is less than the weight of the
QR skewer nut and lever mechanism.  Not a great deal if difference, though.
Just a few grams.

Also, the difference of strength between a hollow axle and a solid axle of
the same material is quite trivial.  The meat in the centre doesn't do too much
in making it more bend-resistant.

-- 
Ken Iisaka               \ NEXT RECITAL  |12:00 pm, Thursday, January 7th, 1993
kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca     \ Produced by |National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa
AI Lab, University of Ottawa \ CBC Stereo|Berg        Sonata, b minor, op. 1
H: +1 613 237 6642 W: 564 8155 \ 103.3 FM|Mussorgsky  Pictures at an Exhibition
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.rides
From: rwoods@nosc.mil (Ronald C. Woods)
Subject: bike helmet
Keywords: bike helmet, bicycles
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego, CA
Distribution: sd
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 16:55:02 GMT



BIKE HELMET - $40.00

Bell Image bicycle helmet, black, size s/m, never used still in box.


Ron Woods
email:  rwoods@nosc.mil
phone:  553-1560 (work)


Xref: sparky rec.auto:15 rec.autos:30465
From: neil@sdf.lonestar.org (Neil Aggarwal)
Newsgroups: rec.auto,alt.auto,rec.autos
Subject: car for sale: 1980 mercedes
Date: 18 Dec 92 06:50:12 GMT
Distribution: dfw
Organization: sdf full-shell Public Access Unix - Dallas, TX - 214/436-3281


 I would like to sell my car.

The specs are:

	1980 Mercedes 240D
	* 4-speed manual transmission
	* diesel fueled
	* AC and Heat
	* 145,000 miles
	* Very well-maintained exterior and leather interior
	* 4 doors
	* new vacuum locking system

  I am asking $7900.00, negotiable.

  If you are interested in finding out more, please call Neil at
      (214) 596-8741.

Thank you.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kopca@mksol.dseg.ti.com (David J Kopca)
Subject: Walker-Turner Jointer Blade Install
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 22:03:12 GMT


I got Porter Cable to agree to install the blades; however,
that is all they agreed to do.  I should be okay from here.

Note:  I brought a new set of Delta jointer blades and 
discovered that 1/8 of an inch had to be ground off the
end (they were too long).

I might get to use the jointer after all!


Thanks,
Dave  (aka. kopca@apo40.dseg.ti.com)



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: coloured stains for kids blocks
Date: 30 Dec 92 18:50:04 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.

In article <WOODWORK%92122922085003@IPFWVM.BITNET>,         T.DUNN@MAILBOX.UQ.OZ.AU writes:
> >How about analine(sp?) dyes?  Anyone every use them on pine?  Safety?
> 
> I just quit from the net (I've resigned!) but I thought I should let you
> know about aniline dyes.  I did my doctorate  on bladder cancer, some of
> the first substances officially recognised as "cancer causing" (c. 1900)
> were the so called "coal-tar" dyes, to which the aniline dyes belong (this
> is assuming that the stuff  you buy is actually "aniline").
> 
> I would highly recommend that you keep this stuff away from kid's toys!  I
> don't know of alternatives, but from a toxicology point of view, plastic
> (or polyurethane) finishes are infinitely safer.
> 

ALthough I won't claim to know anything about the absolute safety of 
any chemical, I think people interested in using analine dyes may 
want to check out the safety issue more carefully than via the net.

In Micheal Dresden (Dredsner??)'s latest book (The Woodfinishing
Book), there is a section on these dyes, and in a sidebar he states 
there is a large misperception about analine vs. analine dyes.  He
claims the analine is used in the manufacture of the dyes, but none
remains in the finished product.  He also claims analine is used in
the manufacture of decafinenated coffee!  SO the dyes may not be as
toxic as you  may think.

P.S.  Over the last two weeks, I have seen dozens of questions here
on the net regarding finishing.  My blanket advice is to buy this
book -- it would have answered virtually all of them.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: darkstar@carson.u.washington.edu (Alden  Hackmann)
Subject: Looking for Total Shop address
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:45:50 GMT

We saw a Total Shop 21" scroll saw at a woodworking show a few months ago.
Unfortunately we don't have their address. Can anyone tell me:

a) The mailing address and/or phone number of Total Shop.

b) If you have experience with the Total Shop scroll saw, I'd like to hear
   about it.  I know there are many review articles, but I prefer real 
   reviews from real people. 

Reply by email please. 

Alden Hackmann 
darkstar@u.washington.edu



Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: combination jointer/thickness-planers
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 17:26:59 GMT

rec.ww'ers,

Happy holidays!  Hope Santa was good to you all.  As one of my gifts
my wife gave me a copy of "The Complete Manual of Woodworking" which,
in my opinion, is an excellent book for beginners and pros interested
in cabinetry and furniture making.  It's full color with ton's of
photos and illustrations.  One excellent section includes information
on different types of wood from pine to cocobola to ebony to rosewood,
all with photos and even finished/unfinished versions.  

It also makes an excellent "coffee table" book.  Appeals to all
levels, etc, etc....

Anyway, to the real point of my post.  I had been involved in some
discussion with Bennett over jointers and have become intrigued with
the Jointer/thicknesser combination.  The above mentioned book had an
excellent section on them and chose a DeWalt DW 1150 combination
thicknesser/jointer/milling machine as an example.  I immediately fell
in love.  Of course it sounds like this machine has been discontinued
since the book was published in 1989, and I am in deep depression over
that fact.

I am therefore looking for opinions/price estimates/sources for
current equivalents (Inca 550, Hitachi, etc).  I'd like something
capable of jointing and thicknessing 8+ inches.  Yes, I've become a
severe, powertool junky and am willing to pay the price (within
reason, say upto ~$1500).  In addition to this I'm probably going to
get a Delta Cabinet saw. (opinions?  now is the time for 'em).

Thanks

Eric.
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 17:49:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


One more note:

I looked at the Ryobi carefully, because of price and features.

The Ryobi has several advantages over other jointers twice the price.

First, that noisey universal motor turns extremely fast, and produces the
best results I have ever seen with a jointer.   I can match the results
with my Jet, but not easily.   The Ryobi seems able to joint even highly
figured woods against the grain without tearout.   Nice.

Second, there is a cutterhead lock that locks the cutter head at
top dead center for blade changes.   This, in combination with the
fact that there are only two blades and they supply an extremely accurate
plastic blade setting guide makes blade changes a snap, and guarantees
very consistent results.

With my Jet, until I discovered ceramic magnets, I was tempted to hire
a machinist to to this job.   Now I use my ceramic magnets, but it is
still difficult to get all the blades set to EXACTLY the same position.

If you buy the Ryobi JP155, you will have a jointer that will give you
extremely good results consistently with minor hassle, and all this for
only $300.00.

The only drawback it had that eliminated it for me was the lack of a 
rabbetting arm.  If they added one, I would have bought it.  I might still
put my Jet up for sale if they do.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: echong@porpoise.ecn.purdue.edu (Edwin Chong)
Subject: Table Saw surface rust
Keywords: Table saw, rust
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 23:18:20 GMT

A question for table saw experts:

I just got a Delta 10" Table saw for Xmas. One of the first things the 
manual says to do is to clean the table top with kerosene, and then
coat it with paste wax. I did so (with turtle wax), and found that
after my first application of the wax, brown streaks began to develop on 
the surface of the table. The brown color stayed even after buffing (some
of the brown stuff rubbed off). I suspect that the brown color is due
to rust, probably caused by moisture in the paste wax application.
BTW, after hand buffing, the surface of the table is now quite
smooth, even though the brown streaks can still be seen.

So here's the question: Does rust on the table surface matter, or is it a
common thing for table tops of table saws to eventually develop some
rust? 

Thanks,

Ed Chong
echong@ecn.purdue.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 31 Dec 1992 16:27:50 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: drawknife use

>Greetings John!
>
>I'm making a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired sofa table and, for a more
>contemporary look, am going to scallop the stiles that adorn the
>ends and mid-point of the table.  In other words, the stiles are
>about 1 x 2 x 18 and I'm going to make them concave along one 1 x 18
>dimension.  To do this, my brother, who's an accomplished woodcarver
>but who's just moved to CA far from here, recommends using a drawknife.
>(I should mention that I don't have a bandsaw, but could use a
>friend's).
>
>I've never used one and my brother, to whom woodcarving comes easy,
>has been known to do things, imho, the hard way but gets excellent
>results.  He recommends buying a small drawknife (about $30) and
>cleaning up the stiles with my drill press and a sanding drum.  Can
>anyone out there with experience comment on whether a drawknife would
>be worthwhile on this project and, how to use a drawknife?  The table
>has only 8 stiles and the scallops shouldn't be too deep.  The idea of
>sitting quietly using a drawknife is more appealing to me these days
>than using more power tools.

I guess it depends on how much stock you're removing and what kind of stock
you're cutting.  I've never used a drawknife, but I imagine if you're doing
this on something like zebrawood, or even hard maple, it could be kind of
frustrating.  However, I suppose you would have the advantage of being able to
clamp all 8 pieces together and do them simultaneously.

If you're marking the scallops with some kind of template or circle/ellipse
drawing jig, you might cut out the bulk with an inexpensive jigsaw and then
clean up with the drawknife and/or sanding drum and/or cabinet scraper.  Your
scallops may be shallow enough to do with a sanding drum alone, at which point
you may want to follow with a scraper.

Hope this helps, at least a little!

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
From: kamooni@pb2esac.uucp (Ken Moonitz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Mortise Chisels
Date: 22 Dec 92 19:27:14 GMT
Organization: Pacific*Bell ESAC, Oakland, CA.

In article <WOODWORK%92122111504757@IPFWVM.BITNET> "Lawrence E. Rondot" <RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET> writes:
>I am looking for a 3/4" chisel to chop through mortises.  After looking
>through the normal research guides (catalogs) I am seeing a patern that most
>of the higher priced "mortise" chisels have squared sides and a leather
>washer to act as a shock absorber.
>
>What other things should I watch for?  I have a low end 3/4" chisel already
>but I am not too sure of it for chopping a 4" wide by 3" deep hole.
>
>Help?
>
>Larry Rondot
>Rondot@IPFWVM      - or -      Rondot@SMTPLink.IPFW.Indiana.Edu

Check out The Japan Woodworker 1800-537-7820.

Ask for a catalog.  They have a few different mortising chisels, I'm
looking at one now... order # 14.303.18 San Mai Atsu Nomi Yoshitora
3/4" "white" steel tempered to Rockwell C65...  $44.85  Intended for
deep mortising in large work.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:38:09 GMT

gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
: 
: Remember the example of Brazilian rosewood.  By only sustainably grown
: tropical hardwoods, or else use North American hardwoods like oak, maple,
: walnut and cherry.

In the case of Brazil - the rainforest is being cut at the rate of 0.5%
per year. This is an easily sustainable level. The problem is the erosion
that may occur - they don't seem to try to minimize it. Also, most of the
cutting is for growing crops, not for the wood. Much of the wood is simply
burned where it was cut.

So, do you think we are doing any better in the US? I would argue that we
are doing worse. Our hardwood forests are rapidly disappearing - much more
quickly than most foreign countries.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: How to get a square edge
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 20:48:44 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.123736.9479@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> carrd@iccgcc.decnet.
ab.com writes:
>
>I've run into this problem alot when dealing with long pieces of wood
>(> 5') and thought I'd ask the wisdom of the net.  The problem I refer to
>is getting a true edge on a board when the deflection of the warp is 
>only about 1/2 - 1 inch over the entire length.  The bed on my jointer
>(Jet 6") is too short to detect the curve, thus all I end up with is a 
>curve on a smaller width board.  
>
>Anyone come up with a slick way around this problem?
>
>Dave

     Although I am, in general, a power tool junkie, this is one time
where I pull out ye old plane.  My method is to flatten the ends out as
best I can with the hand plane.  When I have it fairly even, I run it over
my poor-man's jointer (i.e. a router).  This seems to work well and gives
me a good edge over the entire length of the board.


-- 
Ralph Clifford
rdc@world.std.com (Internet)
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Collective Buying Power
Date: 23 Dec 92 20:12:48 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <1992Dec23.150919.473@cbfsb.cb.att.com> millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:
>Has it occurred to anyone else that the people who read rec.woodworking
>have a large collective buying power?
>
>Wouldn't it be nice if we could negotiate with one company that we
>buy all our equipment/supplies from that company in exchange for
>a price break?  They'd be getting a very high volume of orders/
>income, in view of the high amount of disposable income that 
>"Gary Preckshot's computer buddies" (reference Grizzly Bandsaw)
>seem to have.
>

Ah, yet another buyer's coop/big distributer/importer interface.

I don't buy strictly on price.

And I'm not so sure I want to be lumped in with Mr. Preckshot's
computer buddies.



-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking