HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: laflisc@wkuvx1.bitnet
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: RF Punch Amps
Date: 15 Sep 92 21:18:59 GMT
Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY

Hey guy,
	It is usu. true that the more the watts the louder the system, but
that is not always true.  A trip to any good sound-off would tell you
that.  I cant tell you off the top of my head what the spec are on RF
amps, I could tomorrow but I think somebody will beat me to the punch.  
	I do know that things are not what they seem.  To acheive
loudness, if that is what you want, a gigawatt of power is not
necessary.  Just look at last years IASCA Finals.  The lowest power
class is 0-50 watts.  I cant quote but Iam sure that someone hit at
least 100db.  
	Now I am not saying that no one needs alot of power.  I have
had alot of power, I also spent alot of money on that power and you
sound like you dont want to spend alot of money.
	By the way, I think RF amps are about the best.  If you are
using one amp for all four subs, I would run two-four ohm subs in
parallel on each channel and use the other amp for your full-range
drivers.
						Scott
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ljkong@undergrad.math.waterloo.edu (Lennard J. Kong)
Subject: Soundstream d200 II
Keywords: info wanted
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 21:00:54 GMT

  I am looking into buying this amp after seeing many persons using SStream ampsin their cars in the various magazines etc, I would appreciate any good/bad infopertaining to this amp or any recommendations to another comparable 2 channel   amp in this price range which is about $350 mail order. Thanks.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Lennard J. Kong               |  Emancipate yourself from mental slavery
 ljkong@descartes.waterloo.edu |                                  - Bob Marley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ajc4@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (ANTHONY JAMES CACIOLO)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Subs in a Saab Convertable
Date: 16 Sep 92 01:57:19 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


I am trying to put a system in my Saab Cabrio, but I can't find a good place
for subs.   Any ideas?
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: Re: Soundstream d200 II
Keywords: info wanted
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 12:12:55 GMT

In article <Bu6D1J.BBL@undergrad.math.waterloo.edu> ljkong@undergrad.math.waterloo.edu (Lennard J. Kong) writes:
>  I am looking into buying this amp after seeing many persons using SStream ampsin their cars in the various magazines etc, I would appreciate any good/bad infopertaining to this amp or any recommendations to another comparable 2 channel   amp in this price range which is about $350 mail order. Thanks.
>
>-- 

In my opinion, this is probably the best amp on the market
today!  When I sold car stereo, I sold many Sound Stream
Amplifiers, with little or no problems.  I remember one time
when a customer (Who installed it himself) came back a few
days after the sale and complained that the amp was defective.
It being a SoundStream, I knew it was impossible, so I checked
his installation job, He has hooked the Positive lead from the
battery to the + lead on the speaker output for the right
chanell. When I saw this I told him he had probably blown the
amp out (He had ground hooked up too, So I figured he blew out
the final's) We took it in, and bench tested it.  It worked
great!  The thing could not be killed.

I own a D200 II, and will probably get another, they are
avalible for $336 at 6 Ave Electronics, although 6 Ave is NOT
a authorized dealer of soundstream, I doubt I will have a
problem with a high quality product.

The only other amp that I would rate HIGHER than a soundstream
is the OLD Harman Kardon CA series.. The CA260 is one MONSTER
amp.  Rated at 60 per chan, it blows away most 100 Per chan
amps.

Marc.
From: awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Man Of Steel)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: MAIL ORDER FOR ALPINE
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:03:19 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <1992Sep15.14955.27430@ms.uky.edu> miles@ms.uky.edu (Stephen D. Grant) writes:

>erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim)  writes:

>>-> Does anyone have any experience with the Alpine 3566 amp?  With its 6
>>-> ch mode of 4x30w and 2x60w or 5 ch mode of 4x30w and 1x160w, it seems
>>-> like it would be a good choice for a front, rear & sub system.

>>  I've never used the 3566, but have used the 3554 (50x4 or 50x2 and 150
>>x 1).  I've used it to run 2 Orion 15" XTR's in a sealed box and it runs
>>it loud, clean, and accurate.  Never had a problem with Alpines, and
>>they have never shut down on me.
>>Erich Lim

> I too used a 3554 and was/am very impressed with its performance.
>I ran 2 8-ohm Rockford Fosgate 10s on the bridged 150 watt channel, and
>a set of MB Quart 218s (6 1/2" woofer and a tweeter (sepperate)) on the
>front 2 stereo channels. no extra crossover, very simple, clean, sound was
>excellent. i'd like to use 3 of em in my next system. 


I have been using the 3552(35x4 +crossover) for over a year.  It's split
up: 2 channels drive an MTX BPE 10 sub box, the other two are driving
a pair of 5x7s.  Great durability, power, consistent clean sound
	
:)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ljkong@undergrad.math.waterloo.edu (Lennard J. Kong)
Subject: Re: speaker outputs -> pre-amp inputs
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 13:15:52 GMT


  I can give you a the solution a friend of mine used, all he did was add a     resistor to the speaker outputs, I'm not sure what was the resistance but it waseither 10k or 100k ohms. The quality wasn't that bad, and it still works and    hasn't affected any of the equipment following.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Lennard J. Kong               |  Emancipate yourself from mental slavery
 ljkong@descartes.waterloo.edu |                                  - Bob Marley
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu (Jason Davis)
Subject: Re: speaker outputs -> pre-amp inputs
Summary: Line Output Converter 
Keywords: Line Level
Reply-To: jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu (Jason Davis)
Organization: East Texas State University, Commerce, TX
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 04:42:07 GMT

In article <collin.716490590@angelo> collin@angelo.amd.com (Collin K. Ong) writes:
>I've seen this question posted many times on the net but have never seen
>it answered, so could somebody please please please answer it??!?
>
>How can you pad down the speaker outputs of a car deck that doesn't have
>pre-amp outputs so that they can be patched into the pre-amp inputs
>of a separate amp?  Exact circuit diagrams would be nice.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Collin Ong
>collin@brahms.amd.com


Line output converters are available from MCM Electronics.  1-800-543-4330
   #60-410   Line output converter		$2.95
   #60-415   Line output converter/balancer 	$3.80

I've used the 410 model in several installs and it has worked nicely.
BTW, MCM has a $20 minimum but they have plenty of other useful, audio related
stuff you can spend money on.  ;-)  Also, I would speak a good word for MCM
any day.  I have dealt with them for several years with not a single problem.
Hope this info is useful...


   /|  Jason Lee Davis                        <jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu>  |\
||/_|  Shiloh Productions sound co. ____      <s2903d@etsuv2.etsu.edu>  |_\||
||\ |  Rt. 1  Box 175              (_ |_)     <s2903d@etsuvax2.bitnet>  | /||
   \|  Klondike, Texas 75448 ________)| _____ (903) 886-2903            |/
From: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: STEREO INSTALL
Date: 8 Sep 92 22:18:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 

Hey Audiophiles,
        I am about to begin putting a competition stereo in my car and
am interested in ANY suggestions or tips.  I know alot myself, BUT there
is always that little tid-bit of info out there.  I believe I have the
proper setup to start with but there is the matter of proper
installation.  I am looking for any unique ideas to add to my list.  As
any stereo buff knows....unique installation is one of the main keys to
winning at competition.  I am open to ANY ideas in the foolowing areas:
        Front Tweeter placement-high/low in the doors,in vents???
                                I know placement is only personal
                                opinion but I am curious for ideas.
        Sub box creation and placement
        Amp/Eq placement
        Any other ideas welcome....
I would like to keep my spare if possible and I would like to also have
some trunk room left over when done too.<alot to ask with a Honda Civic>
I got plenty of ideas on all of these subjects, and I could probably
build a good system right now, BUT I am looking for that Ultimate
idea!!!
                Thanks,  Rob Runkle

`
                
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: lebaron@armand.RADC.AF.MIL (R. Todd LeBaron)
Subject: Subs for Toyota X-cab Pickup
Keywords: subwoofers toyota
Organization: RL
Date: 15 Sep 92 22:02:06 GMT

Anyone have suggestions on where to install subwoofers into
a Toyota Extra-Cab Pickup. Ive heard of individuals putting
2 8" subs into the storage compartment behind the driver, but
I'm not sure how clean the sound would be. Any Ideas?

Todd Lebaron
lebaron@rl.af.mil

Organization: University/Publications & Printing, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 10:41:15 -0400 
From: "James M. Gollick" <jg4y+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Car stereo wanted

Does anyone have a GM - AM-FM STEREO CASS. for sale for a 1989 model?
This is the newer style.
                 Thanks
From: mswilson@digi.lonestar.org (Michael S. Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Car Stereo Gear Wanted
Date: 15 Sep 92 21:53:30 GMT
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Organization: DSC Communications, Plano Tx.



Hey audio experts (I'm not)...

I have a small pickup truck and I want to spend no more than $200.00
on a stereo system for it.  I want good bass response, but it doesn't
have to be LOUD.  Does anybody have any inexpensive gear to sell and/or
suggestions on what I should buy?  I really would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Michael
From: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: INSTALL Q'S
Date: 15 Sep 92 00:34:00 GMT
Reply-To: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle)
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248

Kevin,
I will answer as much as I can...
-> 1) AMP POWER:  I run the power cable (fused near the
-> battery...right?) in to the passenger compartment. I presume I should
-> run the big wire as far as I can before splitting it to the separate
-> amps, right? If the amps are spread around the car (under the seats
-> and in the hatch) do I loose anything, asside from the mess, by
-> distributing the power earlier as opposed to if all the amps were in
-> the same place (in the hatch)?  What about potential grounding
-> problems?  Do I run grounds back to the deck so everything is
-> grounded near each other?  The ground wire should be the same size as
-> the power wire, right?  If the amps are fused do I need a fused
        It is to your advantage to run the larger of the wires as far
as possible.  In English....A wires ablity to carry a particular current
properly is determeined by both the length and width.  Therefore...If
you use a bigger wire you can go farther than you could with the
smaller wire and still stay SAFE.  When you get to the distribution you
can go to a smaller wire if you only have a short distance to get to the
amp or any other component.  The way IASCA judges your proper wiring is
to take to length and current and simply puts them is a chart to find if
you have sufficient wiring for full points.
        I personally don't know if distributing the amps around makes
any differance...BUT I would avoid it myself.
        As for grounding...I have heard that common grounding is the
thing that should be done to avoid ground loops...BUT with wires lengths
being differant and everything, resistances may be differant and you may
have worse problems doing this.  I would suggest a common ground unless
you have problems with this.  If you do have probs then <shrug> try and
get a hold of an installer.
        Yes!  Grounding wire should be the same size as the power...BUT
if you ground all in the same place and that is close to the amp then
you can use a smaller gauge than the bigger one.  Of course...your head
unit wire does not have to be as bigg becuse it does not use near as
many amps.
-> How hard is particle board to work with?  I gather screews and glue
-> are better than nails.  Can you bevel the edges or am I limited to 90
-> deg joints?
Particle board is a hard than regular wood and will dull tips more.
When it comes to angles...It is totally up to you and what kind of
equiptment you can get access to.  Just make sure you get a good seal
with NOOOO leaks.
                Good luck,  Rob Runkle
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: ++1-800-SHERWOOD number out there???++
From: <UD180926@NDSUVM1.BITNET>
Date: Monday, 7 Sep 1992 23:26:45 CDT
Distribution: na
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computer Network

I have to agree about Sherwood amps.  I had the 240 BP and it ran my system
well.  It did have the bang for the buck and it got loud.  Since I've switched
to HiFonics Ulysses and Hercules, I do know tell a difference, but they cost me
over 5 times the price.  Quarts and Kickers helped a lot too.
From: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Can anyone make a faq on Sub box theory and sound?
Date: 6 Sep 1992 16:32:08 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


 Could someone post some info on how to find dimensions of boxes,
and how to determine where to put ports.....I know there are computer
programs out there that do this, but I would like to know myself how
to do it, with a calculator and my head...ha...

thanks!
-- 
Paul Simundza                  | Cleve.Freenet: ae454@cwru.edu
                               | Compuserve: 71441.217@compuserve.com
                               | CSU(Internet): pauls@madnick.cba.csuohio.edu
From: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Using a separate battery:  Perfect Interface or Bat Isolator
Date: 11 Sep 1992 15:23:21 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, jch@sumac27.cray.com (J.C. Hamlin) says:

>addressed the real problem with battery isolators.  You should definitely 
>have this device installed by a certified professional -- here's why:
>
>Robert Lau mentioned that there's a voltage drop across the diodes in the 
>isolator -- this is correct.  However, that effects the regulator (the device 
>that tells the alternator how much charge the battery needs -- usually internal
>to the alternator).  With the voltage drop across the diodes, the regulator 
>will not be set at the right voltage to charge the battery to it's peak voltage
>of about 12.5V.  Because of the voltage drop across the diodes, the regulator 
>will always think the battery is low and continue to charge the battery -- 
>resulting in overcharging.  This can quickly ruin a battery; not to mention 
>that it's also very dangerous.  I've encountered this problem quite often 
>when an unknowning person installed his own two battery system.  Have a 
>qualified installer adjust or replace your regulator.
>
>Hope this helps!
>
>J.C. Hamlin
>Automotive Sound & Security by Hamlin
>jch@Cray.COM
>

Is it dangerous to hook 2 batteries in parallel for Very short periods
of time anyone?

I want to add like a motorcycle battery and in case my regular battery fails,
I can flip a switch to send current from the motorcycle battery to start
the motor....

tell me if this is an insane Idea, I was just wondering!
-- 
Paul Simundza                  | Cleve.Freenet: ae454@cwru.edu
                               | Compuserve: 71441.217@compuserve.com
                               | CSU(Internet): pauls@madnick.cba.csuohio.edu
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: speaker outputs -> pre-amp inputs
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:11:24 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <BuMFIG.EKA@undergrad.math.waterloo.edu> ljkong@undergrad.math.waterloo.edu (Lennard J. Kong) writes:
>
>  I can give you a the solution a friend of mine used, all he did was add a     resistor to the speaker outputs, I'm not sure what was the resistance but it waseither 10k or 100k ohms. The quality wasn't that bad, and it still works and    hasn't affected any of the equipment following.
>

This could cause serious damage to the head unit IF the output
of the headunit uses a bridged amplifier.  If your friend had
no problem, he just lucked out and has a common ground output
on his head unit. 

Marc.
From: rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: CD players
Date: 14 Sep 1992 13:58:32 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, USA
	<1992Sep14.115352@usho21.hou281.chevron.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarazed.usc.edu
In-reply-to: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com's message of 14 Sep 92 16:53:52 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.115352@usho21.hou281.chevron.com> hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes:

  see how you couldn't help but scratch the disc on the corners or edges.

I didn't know disc's had corners...   sorry, couldn't resist :)

-- 
Robert Lau - Systems Programmer, Unix Systems     213-740-2866
--  University Computing Services                 Internet: rslau@usc.edu
--  University of Southern California             Bitnet:   rslau@uscvm
--  1020 W Jefferson, LA, CA  USA, 90089-0251     UUCP:     ...!uunet!usc!rslau
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Subject: Car Discman?
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 14:14:44 GMT


I want to put cd sound in my minivan.  I just want to add cd to my existing 
Chrysler/Infinity stock system because it sounds pretty good.  I've just 
about rejected indash units because someone will see it, smash my window, and
take it, and changers because I figure I'll do most of my listening at home: 
when I go out I'll grab what I want to listen to and I don't want to have to 
load them into a cartridge every time.

So I think a portable is the way to go.  When I leave the car, I can take it 
with me or stash it in the glove box.  (I know, I could do that with a pullout 
but this way I also get a portable cd player.)  

Is any body using a portable wired into their car system?

Do the non "car specific" units skip so bad that I need to spend the extra 
bucks on e.g. a Sony Car Discman?

How does car discman skipage compare to that of indash units and changers?

What about those special mounting pods for use with portables in cars?

Anything else I should know before making a decision?

Thanks, 
Kevin Sullivan
From: rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Using a separate battery:  Perfect Interface or Bat Isolator
Date: 12 Sep 1992 16:49:52 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, USA
	<RSLAU.92Sep9150006@tarazed.usc.edu> <18qdl9INN2k4@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarazed.usc.edu
In-reply-to: ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu's message of 11 Sep 1992 15:23:21 GMT

In article <18qdl9INN2k4@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ae454@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul Simundza) writes:

   Is it dangerous to hook 2 batteries in parallel for Very short periods
   of time anyone?

nope, that's what how you jump start a car...  just watch for sparks,
that's why you connect the positive post first, then the ground as far
as way from the battery as possible...

   I want to add like a motorcycle battery and in case my regular battery
   fails, I can flip a switch to send current from the motorcycle battery
   to start the motor....

No need to do this yourself.  All major battery manufacturers now sell
batteries that do just this.  Just flip a switch at the top of the
battery to use the backup.  Voila.

   tell me if this is an insane Idea, I was just wondering!

Insane is trying to power your stereo system off photovoltaic cells :)

-- 
Robert Lau - Systems Programmer, Unix Systems     213-740-2866
--  University Computing Services                 Internet: rslau@usc.edu
--  University of Southern California             Bitnet:   rslau@uscvm
--  1020 W Jefferson, LA, CA  USA, 90089-0251     UUCP:     ...!uunet!usc!rslau
Xref: sparky rec.audio.car:3563 rec.autos:21688
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.autos
Subject: My solution to car CD player dilema
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:35:23 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Distribution: usa
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

About 8 months ago, I posted a query on the best way to add CD capability
to my 87 Supra, which has a radio/cassette system with no provision
for adding CD, short of replacing the system (not speakers).  One solution
I ruled out was replacing the system with a new compb of CD player,
AM/FM and tape deck; it would have cost me between $700 and $1000.

My solution was a Sony CarDiscman 802, with Sony FM modulator.  Originally,
I was given a Kenwood player as a gift.  My wife bought it for me in
response to Macy's promoting it as a "car CD player."  Well, the unit
skipped all over the place when in a moving car, and the adapter cassette
didn't work worth a damn.  So we exchanged it for the Sony.  I also
had the modulator installed.

The Sony came complete with AC and DC adapters and adapter cassette.
It doesn't have fancy programming, but I wouldn't use that in a car
anyway.  It performs very well in almost all driving situations, except
for serious bumps thru road construction areas.  The sound via the dummy
cassette route actually has a slight edge over the FM modulator approach
soundwise, but I will accept that compromise for its simpler external
hookup and lessened wear on the cassette mechanism.  To dress up the
wiring, I am constructing a special connector/switch panel with a second
"cigarette lighter" jack and audio inputs.  I'm using the panel space
normally occupied by the ash tray.  (The regular lighter jack powers
my radar detector.)

The 802's instruction manual claims you'll get 8 hours from a set of
AA nicads, but in my experience, the actual run time has been less.
I think use of the megabass feature (only available thru headphones)
draws a lot more power, thus reducing run time.

Summarizing, the portable CD players not specifically designed for car
use are realy not suitable in that environment unless mounted on a special
base.  Regarding cassette adapters, the one made by Sony has an adjustable
head position.  The cheaper ones may not align properly.

   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======