HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ylevy@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Subject: FOR SALE: X-700 data back
Reply-To: ylevy@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 13:37:10 GMT

I have the following item for sale:

Minolta Multi-function Back for X-700 camera:

     * prints time/date/number on film
     * controls camera to operate independantly.  For example:  Shoot
         24 frames at one frame per hour.
     * allows very long exposures to be made.  For example:  Shoot stars
         moving across the sky while you are in bed sleeping.
     * cordless, has LCD panel, data imprints six figures in three pairs
         (i.e.  nn nn nn), with Power Grip 2 will automatically turn on flash
         1 minute before picture is taken in Interval Mode, REQUIRES Auto
         Winder G or Motor Drive 1 to utilize the Interval Mode.

     * MINT CONDITION, with box, case, manual
     * A STEAL at $100  


Please e-mail me at YLEVY@BINAH.cc.brandeis.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Re: Circular Polarizer and Auto Focus
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 02:22:39 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <92097.100819JBEST@ESOC.BITNET> JBEST@ESOC.BITNET (Jon) writes:

>A circular polariser is what is known as a 'quarter wave' filter. It
>delays the phase of the transmitted light by a quarter of a wavelength
>in one plane. (Don't ask me how, or what effect different wavelengths
>have - it's been too long since I studied all this!)

Well, that plus a linear polarizer in front.  With the linear
polarizer in front, the interaction with the scene is exactly like an
ordinary linear polarizer.  Then the quarter wave plate effectively
"depolarizes" the light.  See my recent message
<1992Apr3.212208.25492@cello.hpl.hp.com> for a fuller explanation.

  -- David Jacobson
From: karol@unix.cis.pitt.edu (Karol Gieszczykiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Practica
Summary: Questions
Keywords: practica questions
Date: 15 Apr 92 00:10:05 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: UserConsultant@LawSchool


Hi, I never posted to this newsgroup before. I am interested in German cameras
- made by Practica. I used to live in Europe, where I used them and was 
quite satisfied. I would like to know if they are available here in USA,
and specifically what any one knows about the following models:
BC-1, BC-20, BMS, and BCA?
thank you
Karol Gieszczykiewicz-
-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
_______________________karol@unix.cis.pitt.edu__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bullis@polari.com
Subject: Re: 4 x 5 camera help
Reply-To: uunet!polari!bullis
Organization: Seattle Online Public Access Unix.  (206) 328-4944 (all lines telebit-equipped)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 13:45:00 GMT

daved@hplsla.hp.com (Dave Dintenfass) writes:

>One lens that is often overlooked these days is the classic
>203mm f/7.7 Kodak Ektar (older versions weren't called Ektars
>but simply "Kodak Anastigmats" as I recall).  This is an 8-inch

......

>o  A great bargain; these sell on the used market between $125 and 
>   $250 (don't pay more; these lenses often go begging), usually
>   in Kodak Supermatic shutters. 

......

The old Kodak folders came with the f/7.7 Kodak Anastigmat mounted in a 
"ball-bearing shutter".  This lens came both in the 203mm fl and also the
170.  These can often be found (off the cameras) for $10-$15, especially
if you go to the shows at about 4:30 in the afternoon when everybody is 
trying to unload the stuff that didn't sell all day.  The lenses are un-
coated, so the problems Dave mentioned are sometimes exaggerated.  The 
ball-bearing shutter is limited to just three speeds.  On the other hand,
I never saw one that didn't work.  And they do have b and t, which are the
speeds I use most anyway.

I have used this lens often in both focal lengths.  Hey, for the price
you can't go wrong.  

Larry			bullis%polari@uunet.uu.net






r
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: troyb@oz.plymouth.edu (Troy Bennet)
Subject: Re: OM-PC Problem
Reply-To: troyb@oz.plymouth.edu (Troy Bennet)
Organization: Plymouth State College - Plymouth, N.H.
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 14:22:49 GMT

In article <sprinkle.702590587@convex.convex.com> sprinkle@convex.com (Robert Sprinkle) writes:
>I have owned an Olympus OM-PC for several years now and have been very
>pleased.  However I am now having a very frustrating problem.  I can put
>in a fresh set of batteries and attempt to take a shot and the shutter
>locks up and the "fresh" batteries are drained.  I have taken it to a
>local (Dallas) camera store for repairs.  They kept it for 4 weeks.  Upon
>the return of the camera at the store I put in new batteries and it seemed
>to work fine.  The repair people said they coould find no problem with the
>camera.  As usual soon as I left the store and tried to use the camera the
>same thing happened.  I tried another set of batteries to no avail.  Using
>this trial and error method gets expensive 'cause batteries aint cheap.
>I would like to stay with Olympus because of the accesories I have
>accumulated over the years.  I refuse to buy ANY of this autofocus crap
>on the market today.
>Anyone outthere had similar problems?  Any suggestions.


At one time I had bought a used OM-PC.  I really like the camera a
lot.  As a matter of fact, I was seriously considering dumping my
Pentax collection and buying exclusively into Olympus.  When I bought
the camera, the salesman told me that the OM-PC's originally had a
problem with a short somewhere in the electronics that led to the
batteries being drained incredibly fast.  The company had set up a
free repair program to remedy the problem.  The one that I bought had
gone through the repairs to make it "right".  I used it for a week and
eventually returned it (they had a 14 day returm policy) because the
battery died on me while I was shooting a burning building/firemen
emergency.  The camera was probably fixed but I later found out from
other OM-PC owners that the batteries don't last very long even when
there is no electronic/electrical problems.  I was bummed because I
had intended to build a working asenal from the OM-PC, an OM-2s and a
OM-4T, all beautiful cameras.  I just couldn't afford to have
unreliability looming so closely to my work.  I still like the Olympus
cameras and I relize that I am probably being too hard on them, but I
am not excited enough about them to give up my K1000, Super-Program,
and eventually a PZ-1.( <--Now THAT's an exciting camera!)

Sorry about going off like that!  My suggestion would be for you to go
to another (preferably Olympus recognized) repair shop and mention the
OM-PC's birth defect and susequent problems.  Hopefully, they will be
familiar with the Olympus free repair program.  If worst comes to
worst, try contacting Olympus directly and asking for the locations of
Olympus Authorized repair houses nearest to you.

Good luck,

troyb
From: rsavoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Prints --> Slides??????
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:13:13 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.



A week or so back, someone posted that it is possible
to make prints into slides (not the other way around!  
That's been discussed numerous times here! :).  Is this
actually possible and what process is used to do so?
About how much would it cost?

The reason I'm asking is because I'm going to be shooting a 
regatta soon and it would be easier to have prints to show
to the boat owners, but have slides to submit to magazines.
I don't know if I can have both, but if anyone has any 
information on the above mentioned process, I'd appreciate
hearing about it.   

Thanks,

Rick

rsavoia@beirut.sqa.stratus.com or Rick_Savoia@vos.stratus.com
From: cgates@mitre.org (Curt Gates)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: New idea in B&W film development?
Date: 15 Apr 92 12:33:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: linus.1992Apr15.123340.18478
Organization: The MITRE Corporation

In article <1992Apr13.212925.19642@meaddata.com> otto@meaddata.com (Otto 
Burgess) writes:
> Would anyone think that these units can be used to process B&W?  Has 
anyone out there tried it?  I know that some people use constant rotary 
action to process film, sould the scrubbing action be any different?

In theory, it seems like using an ultrasonic cleaner has possibilities, 
especially to reduce wash time. IUd say itUs worth some experiments.  You 
would have to be sure the power is low enough so as not to remove the 
emulsion and break up the paper.  The ultrasonic cleaners I use seem to 
have variables that are okay for cleaning, but may not be okay for 
processing film.  For example, some areas of the tank are more active than 
others. So you might have problems with precise control.



 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bburden@encore.com (Bruce Burden)
Subject: Re: Tamron 35-105 F2.8 AF
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 17:10:45 GMT

usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) writes:

>The N8008s gives a continuous readout of the *actual* aperture,
>taking into account lens extension as well as the variable aperture
>of the 35-105/3.5-4.5. And isn't it true that lens extension needs
>to be considered even when using a lens with a constant maximum
>aperture? My 60/2.8 AF Micro loses 1-1/3 stops in going from
>infinity to close focus.
>			   -Alan



	The lens extension does not need to be considered when you 
    are using the TTL metering. When you are using a light meter,
    then it IS necessary to consider the extension.

	I get confused when dealing with variable aperture zooms
    whether the camera is displaying the actual aperture or the
    effective aperture.

	For the macro issue, however, experience has taught me that
    you have to calculate the light loss due to extension when using
    the light meter reading. For the Minolta 100mm macro, that is
    2 stops at the 1:1 setting.




							Bruce
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bullis@polari.com
Subject: Re: B&W Contact Prints
Reply-To: uunet!polari!bullis
Organization: Seattle Online Public Access Unix.  (206) 328-4944 (all lines telebit-equipped)
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 06:24:32 GMT

gle@l42bb.jsc.nasa.gov (glenn ellis) writes:

>Anyone have a cleaver suggestions on how to make bw contact prints without 
>an enlarger.  I've heard of some methods using picture frame glass and a 
>flash, does this work.  any suggestions?

The original clever way was to use a contact paper and a bare light bulb.
This was used by everyone who didn't have a contact printer, which was an
antique device like a light box with a lid, that had a switch on it so 
that when the lid closed, the light came on.  Boy, am I ever an old-timer!

By contact paper, I don't mean rolled up paper that is sticky on one side!
It is photographic paper that is made for use in contact with the nega-
tive rather than by projection -- ie enlarging.

Contact papers are much slower than enlarging papers, so a 100 watt light
bulb suspended at 4 feet or so would give a very realistic and manageable
exposure.  This is, btw, how E Weston printed everything.  It is incredibly 
simple.  No $1000 enlarger, here!

A contact printing frame is like a picture frame, but has a hinged wooden
plate with metal springs which holds the paper tightly to the glass.  
These are still available, but lacking one, a heavyweight piece of glass,
preferrably with the edges finished, will do just fine.  

Kodak still makes 3 contact papers.  I think all are fiber base.  AZO is 
the classic, and a beautiful paper it is, unless they have messed it up
somehow.  The others are called simply "contact paper" and VELOX.  These 
are listed in the 1991 catalog.  The one called "contact paper" seems to
be for high contrast uses such as screening and typesetting, so I'd sug-
gest you'll have better luck with AZO.

Of course, with fiber paper, you will have to actually have an efficient
way of washing your prints.  But I think you will find it a lot more 
straightforward and rational than messing around with flash.

Hey, it's SIMPLE.

Larry
>________________________________________________________________________
>gle@l42bo.jsc.nasa.gov - "Does the dog have the buddah nature?" - Muh!
>________________________________________________________________________
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Monday, 6 Apr 1992 22:48:59 CDT
From: Rich Chong <U41602@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Any opinions on Polaroid's "ONE Film" ?
Distribution: na

It's supposed to be an ISO 200 film. There's no magic about the stuff.
It's purely a marketing ploy to the uninitiated or photographic
simpleton. i.e. One who can't choose between all the different film
speeds available. Imagine kodak or fuji making only 200 film...
And advertising that it's the only film you'll ever need....
now laugh the same way at "ONE Film".     rich chong
From: falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: B&H: Please help!
Date: 15 Apr 92 03:13:46 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: peregrine

Hmmmm.  "John" was the guy who took my order for Kodak IR film.  He
said it was in stock and that it would arrive in a week (sound familiar?).
After two weeks, B&H called me back and said it was back-ordered and
gave me the option to cancel.  I did, and promptly got a letter in the
mail stating that they had credited my credit card with the amount
(I haven't yet gotten my credit card bill to verify this)

Moral of the story: B&H will say they have something in stock even if
they don't.  I suspect everybody does this.  Other than that, their
service was good.

		-ed falk, sun microsystems
		 sun!falk, falk@sun.com
	That's one thing about going against the flow:  there's
	less traffic in that direction.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rsilvers@powwow.nynexst.com (Rob Silvers)
Subject: Has anyone tried the Kodak/Nikon electronic camera?
Originator: rsilvers@powwow
Organization: Nynex Science and Technology
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 92 19:59:26 GMT



	Kodak has an electronic camera that is based on a Nikon
F3 with a special back.  It grabs 1280x1024 with 24 bits of 
color - better than HDTV quality (and some color films).  Has
anyone tried this system yet?  What are your impressions?  It
should be neat because it will upload the data to a Mac through
SCSI.  This system would beat the hell out of a Polaroid back
for evaluating lighting, of course, you could buy a lot of
Polaroid film for $20,000.00

					--Rob.
From: sttay@athena.mit.edu (Stephen T Tay)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: adorama and slide film
Date: 16 Apr 92 02:31:54 GMT
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology

hi
i mail-ordered some fujichrome 50d (professional) film from adorama about 5 days
ago (together with some other stuff) and just received the parcel this afternoon.
however, the slide film had an expiration date of nov 1992. this is my first time
ordering pro-quality slide film and i'm wondering if expiration dates for pro
slide films are usually shorter than expiration dates for fresh normal slide film.
ie. are the fujichromes that i received considered fresh stock?
From: phillip@BARTAL.COM (Phillip M. Vogel)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Tmax Reversal Slide Kit
Date: 6 Apr 92 16:12:31 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Bartal Design Group, Inc.

In article <1992Apr1.164258.8056@cbfsb.cb.att.com> mdw@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (mark.d.wuest) writes:
+>In article <94@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
+>> <regarding TMAX reversal>
+>>I would just go ahead and try it, but the kit costs $30 (!) in local stores
+>>AND (!) mail order.  I looked at a kit today, and on the side of the box it
+>>says there are only two solutions, Part A and Part B, and the kit only makes
+>>one quart (to process how many rolls of film?).  Do I still need my normal
+>>Tmax developer, stop bath, fixer, etc.?
+>
+>I used it a couple of summers ago - it contains everything you need and
+>works just fine. My opinion is that color slides made of a B/W print
+>has more room for creativity and makes nicer slides.
+>
+>>- Jay Ts
+>
+>Mark Wuest
+>mark.wuest@att.com

The kit is goot for 12 36 exposure rolls of TMAX 100 (exposed at
EI 50), or  Technical Pan (also EI 50).  The quality of the
slides is excellent.

Shooting slides of pen and ink illustrations, I've tried Tech Pan
and ektachrome.  The Tech Pan slides definitely have better
resolution, and of course, there's no problem with color balance.

Some people who have viewd these slides prefer the color ones
because of the warmer background. I, personally, consider the
warmer background to be an error. The paper was white. Cold,
stark white. If the artist had wanted a different color
background, she'd have used a different color paper.

Also, the black and white film has considerably less exposure
latitude. You have to bracket generously.

Phillip
--
Phillip M. Vogel, President             | "I like pussy, but I don't like Bush"
Bartal Design Group, Inc.               | Domain: phillip@bartal.com
318 Marlboro Road, Englewood, NJ 07631  | (201)567-1343   FAX:(201)568-2891
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks)
Subject: Re: Re:  broken field camera (was Re:  4 x 5 camera help)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 16:42:03 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Apr13.023458.19609@odin.corp.sgi.com> donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis) writes:
>Ground glass protectors are highly recommended.  Is is Calumet or Zone
>VI that sell them ready made?  It's not to hard to make your own,
>though.

I have one I bought from Calumet.  It's thin, hard plastic in a U shape
that one piece slides into the camera like a film holder with the other
piece sliding behind the camera so it actually covers both sides of the
ground glass.  As I recall, it was rather inexpensive.

John Sparks
From: bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: The Pyro Book (Was Re:  burning in ... multigrade fiber)
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:24:59 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

hartitai wrote:

>
> ... But now that I
>went through The Pyro Book ...


Could someone post or e-mail where/how to get a copy of this book?  I believe
that Peter Davidoff posted that info a while back but I missed the 
posting.  Thanks!

Barry



-- 


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.       | "Any fool can face a crisis - it's     | 
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com           |  this day-to-day living that wears you |
|                                   |  out." - Anton Chekhov                 |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: How to clean multi-coated filters?
Date: 15 Apr 92 16:12:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: primerd.1992Apr15.161242.5275
Organization: Prime Computer R&D


I have two Hoya multi-coated filters (UV and 80A) and the instructions
that came with the filters said not to use lens cleaner or lens cleaning
paper.  How does one go about cleaning these filters?  Do they scratch
very easily?  Are they useless if they have some small scratches?

Marc
----
Two of the worst things we teach our children are that a knowledge of science
is nice but not necessary, and a knowledge of sex is necessary but not nice.

Marc Guyott              Constellation Software, Inc.          (508) 620-2800
                         Framingham, Mass. 01701 USA                Ext. 3135
mguyott@primerd.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!primerd.prime.com!mguyott
mguyott@eriador.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!eriador.prime.com!mguyott
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: doug@jhawk.b11.ingr.com (Doug Bradley)
Subject: Re: Drying silica gel?  (Was fungal growth on lenses)
Reply-To: doug@jhawk.b11.ingr.com.
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 21:24:37 GMT

In article <HSONG.92Apr4144758@ardour.bellcore.com>, hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:
|> In article <ktpt47INNb4s@spim.mips.com> bongers@gto400.Berkeley.EDU (Hans L. Bongers) writes:
|> 
|> > Not only should you NOT EAT
|> > the silica gel shipped with any optical device, you should also not throw it away.  Keep it
|> > in the case with the optical device.
|> 
|> >  --- hans
|> 
|> Does anybody know how to dry silica gel to reuse it after a long period 
|> of use?
|> 
|> Thanks.
|> 
|> 	Hugh
|> 

   I bought some out of shutterbug ads some years ago and "recharge" it according
 to directions, if I recall 3+ hours in the oven at 250-300F. One is a cotton bag
 about 3x1x5 inches and the other a flat aluminum canister 1/2 x 1.5 x 3.5 inches.
 I usually do it after my wife has baked something :) , then turn the oven 'way
 down and leave it in overnight.
   Those little packets which come packed with the gear are probably too small to
 bother with. Of course it depends on the volume of space you're trying to dry.
   Gunshops might carry these things to dry guncabinets and prevent rust, too.

   Just my (dry) .02

doug
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ong@a.cs.okstate.edu (ONG ENG TENG)
Subject: Re: GREAT MAIL ORDER SERVICE
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 13:32:03 GMT

From article <5646@darmstadt.gmd.de>, by schulz@darmstadt.gmd.de (Guenter F. Schulz):
> In <1992Apr1.104117.5481@bsu-ucs.uucp> 00dklyon@bsu-ucs.uucp writes:
> 
> 
>>I HAVE ORDERED A PENTAX SF10 AND A PENTAX SF1N FROM
>>CAMERA WORLD OF OREGON AND I HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY PLEASED

Well, ok, so I thought I check this out, and...

I picked up Pop 4/92 at the store (CWOO not in Shutterbug), and found
CWOO price for Nikon and Nikkor = CALL (on most all the SLR stuff).
I bet this is due to the April 1st price raise on Nikon/Nikkor, but I 
really like to know what their price of specific items, like Nikkor
60 micro, 20/2.8, 80-200/2.8, etc.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: anton@tss.com (Jeff Anton)
Subject: Re: OM-PC (and OM-2SP) Problem (quick battery death)
Reply-To: anton@tss.com
Organization: Teknekron Software Systems, Inc.
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 01:25:40 GMT

I've had the same problem.  But I associated it with an environmental factor
probably temperature.  I have both a OM-PC and a OM-3 and didn't use them
for about 6 weeks and both cameras batterys died at the same time.  This
happened again sometime later.  I thought it might be the heat as there had
been some very hot days and I don't have an air conditioner.  I now keep my
batterys like my film, in cool locations, only loaded into the camera when
needed.  I do believe there is a current drain with the OM-PC when not in use,
but I doubted that the OM-3 would have drained the battery so fast.
					Jeff Anton