HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pauld@cs.washington.edu (Paul Barton-Davis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: roof insulation & ventilation / asbestos in basement
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:04:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle

2 questions about house stuff:

1) Last winter, we refinished our attic. Part of that process included
insulating the roof. The house was built in 1913, and thus uses 2x4's
as framing throughout, including the rafters. We installed bats
which are 3.5" thick, thus filling the entire space within the
rafters, and leaving no room for ventilation.
  
   Now, we were aware that this is a bad thing to do, and we did it
because we plan on reroofing at some point. When we do this, we intend
to add 2x2's onto the rafters before laying down new sheathing. This
will give the required ventilation space.
  
   So, my question is: I know that a lack of ventilation around
insulation can lead to problems with damp. What's the timescale for
this, and how much might it ameliorated by the prescence of (i) almost
perpetually open skylights (ii) a lower section of the roof being
ventilated very well (the area not enclosed by the cripple walls that
form the attic room ?

2) Asbestos. We have some. A 1/4" strip apparently installed to
"protect" the main 6x6 girder that holds up the center of the house
from the "heat" of a hot air duct. I know we have to get rid of it,
and I know that asbestos is Bad, but how urgent is this ? I ask with
the memory of using asbestos in high school a lot, and with the
knowledge that I don't want to invite a building inspector into our
house right now. Also, does anyone have any comments on
seller-liability for this ? Removing this strip is going to involve
complete dissassembly of most of our heating system ... I suspect they
owe us nothing, but any suggestions about ways to save some of the
$2-3000 I suspect this will cost would be appreciated.

thanks,

-- paul
-- 
"Fun" is a word invented by advertising executives to sell soft drinks.
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:42:48 GMT
Subject: Re: Best Hardware Store
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Locally (San Jose and vicinity), Orchard Supply Hardware is probably the
best.  It's modeled on the neighborhood True Value store that's taken
steroids.  Particularly on the weekdays, you get clerks who know that
they are talking about, though this gets worse on the weekends when they
staff up.  However, they usually know where things are...

OSH stores tend to be 3-4 times the size of a large grocery store, with
maybe 20+ registers in the large stores.  The prices are so-so, but the
stuff is generally pretty good (they'll have the B&D crud on hand, but
they also make up for it with Milwaukee, etc), though really special stuff
(first-quality builder's hardware and the like) is best found at a
specialty store.  OK, yeah, the lumber supply is poor, though it's a
great spot to get nails and screws.  I didn't even know that #9 screws
were manufactured, but they had them in stock...

We have Home Depot, and they are pretty good.  Home Club mutated into
Home Base.  When it was Home Club, it was OK (comparable with HD), but
as HomeBase, it, er, stinks.

Pete Brooks

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards)
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Organization: IntraNet, Inc.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 20:12:12 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.173145.28803@ulowell.ulowell.edu> wex@cs.ulowell.edu writes:
>Anyhow, I strongly prefer 12GA, I (personally) do not like the idea of
>cheap 15A outlets on 20 feeds.  And, depending on the size of your house,
>$2100 may be realistic.

Could you explain why you prefer 12GA?
It seems people are proposing this to avoid having the lights dim when
turning on an appliance. If you are right about the cost, wouldn't just 
having more 14GA circuits be both better and cheaper?

>as you would with 14, the reason to use 12 is to reduce the load on each 
>branch 
At least for resistive loads, there would be less load with 14GA, if I
recall Ohm's law correctly.



-- 
Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
From: 21329KAD@MSU (Kim Dyer)
Subject: Re: wood floor or carpet?
Organization: Michigan State University
Date: 26 Aug 1992 22:58:08 EDT

>What are the chances of the woodfloor being trashed?

Although it is possible that the floor underneath looks as if someone
has been stabling elephants in the living-room, the carpet was most
likely put in for esthetic reasons.  Carpet is easier to care for then
hardwood, and warmer on bare feet.  At certain times it has been
considered a "richer" look.  In my experience the floor underneath
will only need relatively minor work or will be well and truly trashed.

>How do you find out (any easy tricks?)

You are going to have to rip up ALL the old carpet either way.  YOu are
quite likely going to have to live with whatever you find under there
for a few days no matter what.

>How hard is it to refinish it yourself?

I've known several people who did it.  It's not DIFFICULT, just
labor intensive.

>Do the marks from
>the carpet strips show very much and what is the best way to deal with
>them?

The strips are only at the edge, and don't show much.  If the carpet is
WELL installed, there should not even be many staples where the pad was
joined.  Cheap or shoddy installers do alot more damage to the flooring.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu (Dr. Barnhart)
Subject: Re: Major Problem with Frigidaire Washer/Dryer combination
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: U of Mn Propoganda Ministry
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:24:41 GMT

In article <3756@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris
Lewis) wrote:

> You have to remember that the dryer is probably a simple plug-in unit,
> which limits its drying power to about 1500 watts (110V @ 15A).  Whereas
> full-size electric dryers are 220V, and around 20-30A (typically 4500-6000W) -
> ie: triple or quadruple the power of your unit.  So a fullsize will dry
> faster, but at probably about the same electrical cost.  A gas unit
> probably has several times more BTUs than a big electrical unit, so you
> get what you got...

This part was new to me.  I haven't had time since I started this thread to
seriously mess with it, so I'm not sure.  I'll bet it is a 110v unit,
although it is fairly close to the stove which I'm almost sure is 220v. 
Which means the landlord may have had the presence of mind to put a 220
unit in but I doubt it.

> So 100 minutes for a smallish load may be reasonable.
> 
> Check the plate rating.  Or call a Frigidaire - they're a pretty good company -
> and find out how long it's supposed to take.  The instruction manuals will often
> tell you how long they should take, and you can usually get a copy for free
> from the manufacturer.

Another idea I plan to pursue.

> 
> A day implies the dryer is broken.
> 
> The cardboard you found was your main problem.  The improper vent cap
> (holes drilled through the wall) *may* be a contributing factor, because
> it can clog so easily (and also present a fire hazard).  This should be
> replaced immediately, but it's not likely to help things much w.r.t.
> drying time.

Kinda tough to replace the venting output, since there are few options
other than knocking out the brick wall.  I would have vented it up about
six feet through the ceiling and out the roof, but hindsight's 20/20.  And
moreover, I doubt the landlord is that interested in rerouting the venting,
although he might let me do it.

> 
> The cardboard inside the unit may have also led to the dryer packing
> itself up with lint and cardboard bits.  You should probably partially
> disassemble the unit to make sure that the venting is clear.  And
> double check the vent pipe tubing interior while you're at it.

That's the plan for this weekend.  We'll see how successful I am at it. 
I'd like to get a Frigidaire tech manual before I do, so it'll go back
together.

> God knows why somebody would *intentionally* block the venting, after
> it becomes abundantly clear that it makes drying take forever...
> (unless they were using it as a heat source ...)

I'm guessing it was put in for shipping/packing and the landlord (who
installed the unit) just forgot to remove it.


Shawn Barnhart ! sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu
I'm not selling out, I'm buying in.
From: johnst@tekig6.PEN.TEK.COM (John F Stoops)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Eletric dryer - running but not drying
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:49:29 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <4100762@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks) writes:
>I wrote:
>.
>.I had this happen, and the problem was a blown fuse in a fused
>.switchbox.  (The 220 line had a 30A breaker in the main panel, and

Maybe somebody mentioned it and I missed it, but most electric driers have
thermal cutout relays.  I have had similar situations in the  past and
the solution was to replace a thermal cut-out relay, around a $5 part.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Advice sought on Central A/C and furnace
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:36:08 GMT
Reply-To: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Annapolis Detachment, CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC

In misc.consumers.house, sca@dopey.eng.ohio-state.edu (Stan Ahalt) writes:

(As part of a discussion as to the cost effectiveness of repairing an
older central AC system)

>(For the curious, Columbus, and Ohio, now adhere to rather stringent
>clean-air requirements which make the repair of a leak, even if it is
>small one, rather expensive because of the extensive measures taken to
>keep the freon from leaking into the air.  Also, we are now required

Good grief. This sounds like something Maryland would pull. I would
have thought most other states would have more sense. Most of the recent
concern about limiting release has concentrated on CFC-12 (the stuff
used in automotive AC systems). CFC-12 (aka Freon 12) has a very high
ozone depletion potential of 1.0 and has been targeted for special controls
and eventual replacement.
    The refrigerant generally used in central home AC systems, however,
is HCFC-22 (aka refrigerant 22, aka Freon 22). It has a very LOW ozone
depletion potential of 0.05. I know there are cetain individuals who
feel anything higher than zero is unacceptable, but it makes no sense
(to me at least) to throw the same legislation at all CFC's, especially
when it may have significant adverse economic impacts. I hope this doesn't
spread beyond Ohio (or has it already?).

>to replace old equipment with reasonably high efficiency equipment.)

This may make some sense, so long as the owner will realize some economic
benefits during the life of the system. If not, the utility/government
behind these requirements should make up the difference. (It's been
done). He/she, however, should not be required to replace an otherwise
sound system just because bogus (IMO) legislation makes it uneconomical
to repair a simple leak.

Sorry about the soapbox routine. I guess my years in the Peoples Republik
of Maryland are starting to get to me :-(

Bill
stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil
From: oman@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Diane at Allen-Bradley in Cleveland)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: It looks like carpenter ants...
Date: 27 Aug 92 09:49:45 EST

In article <DRAND.92Aug26183833@spinner.osf.org>, drand@spinner.osf.org 
(Douglas Rand) writes:

> 
> BTW.  If you kill the queen,  the nest is finished.  So don't worry
> about the pest control people's scare tactics.  You only have to kill
> one very important ant.

Good point!  Our problem is we don't know if we have a nest or not - but they
are definitely in the house alot - maybe they're just browsing.  We don't
hear them in the walls - but we prefer safe over sorry.

Di
From: simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Summary: 20A switches and receptacles.
Date: 2 Sep 92 20:14:25 GMT
Organization: Boeing Defense and Space Group, Seattle WA

In article <1992Aug31.160453.7043@ulowell.ulowell.edu>, wex@cs.ulowell.edu (Paul M. Wexelblat) writes:
> Now, check out the difference in costs between 15A and 20A switches
> and outlets.  (You can put 20A outlets in 15A branch circuits, but not
> the other way around.) we are talking 100%+ difference for outlets
> (there are cheepie [sic] 15A outlets, but no cheepie 20A'rs)

I think you got this backwards -- 20A outlets are ONLY ALLOWED on 20A circuits
as the opposite would indicate that there is sufficient power when there is
not.  Normal 15A receptacles are rated for a 20A "pass through" so they'll
work safely on a 20A circuit. Anything that draws more than 15A should have
a plug that won't fit a 15A receptacle.

In the US, 20A outlets are required only if there is just ONE outlet on the
20A circuit (i.e. a dedicated load). You are correct though, that if you
WANT to use 20A outlets, they cost roughly $3.50 -vs- $1.00 for 15A ones.

The switches are a valid cost too as I used 20A switches in my shop. Even
though the light fixtures may only draw 4 amps, a 20A switch must be used
on a 20A circuit. These cost me $5.00 each!

> What I'm saying is that there is a lot more than the cost of the boxes
> of wire.  I don't know what you're contractor is doing, but
> if 25% of labor and 50% on materials comes to about $2100, he's
> (she's?) not out of line.

Yes they are. It should be wired such that the expensive switches are not
needed and 20A receptacles are only installed where requested, if anywhere
at all.

		Mark

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pal@chaos.att.com (p.a.layman)
Subject: Re: Cleaning a Deck
Reply-To: p.a.layman@att.com
Organization: VLSI Technology Development Lab, AT&T Bell Labs
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:08:52 GMT


Don't bother with a chemical cleaner.  Instead, rent a pressure
washer (1000psi+) form you local equipment rental.  Made my 10 year
old deck look like it was made from new lumber.

-- 

Paul A. Layman (p.a.layman@att.att.com)

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Organization: SAR Systems Development & Processing, JPL
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 14:55:52 GMT

In article <1SEP199209195367@utkvx4.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx4.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:
>In article <mwBeqB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP>, gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes...
>Mr. Heston... can you read?  There must be > a dozen requests to
>move this to rec.guns.  Thanks.

And almost all of them from one person....

Mr. Drevik... can you read?

>>> So, what specific weapons and ammo do you folks recommend for home 
>>> protection?  Assume it's for an adult with no previous firearms experience

This seems quite relevant to misc.consumers.house.  Someone has asked "what's
the best gun I can by [there's .consumers.] to protect my house [there's
.house]?"  What else does it need to qualify for misc.consumers.house?
From: jerryc@Athena.dal.fsd.mot.com (Jerry Culp)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Date: 27 Aug 92 17:23:16 GMT
Organization: Motorola Field Service Division - NTSC, Dallas TX.

In article <1992Aug26.233834.4913@henson.cc.wwu.edu> n9020351@henson.cc.wwu.edu (James Douglas Del-Vecchio) writes:
>mjc+@cs.cmu.edu (Monica Cellio) writes:
>
>>>1. shoot to kill to avoid lawsuits.
>>>2. use a calibre large enough to take out a big hunk of meat, but not too
>>>   large that a missed shot will pentrate walls and kill neighbors.
>>>3. keep club soda handy to clean up spilled blood and circumvent stains.
>
>>So, what specific weapons and ammo do you folks recommend for home 
>>protection?  Assume it's for an adult with no previous firearms experience
>>(bows and crossbows aside) and a willingness to learn.  (Of course, no weapon
>>gets into my house under *my* power before I've been properly trained with 
>>it.)  Goals are to maximize effectiveness (shooting to wound is stupid) while 
>>minimizing both risk to others (pass-through on walls) and property damage.
>
>>I would have sent email, but I suspect there are others who would like to
>>know.  I am not being sarcastic.
>
>
>	This is a great question to ask on rec.guns, where you will
>get a complete answer from a great number of people, but I will put
>in my two cents here.
>
>	First, two great books for someone in the position you are in,
>(little experience, willing to learn) on the topics of self protection
>and firearms, are _The Truth about Self Protection_, by Massad Ayoob,
>and _Armed and Female_, by Paxton Quigley.
>
>	My own opinion, is that .38 special is about the minimum caliber
>for a handgun intended for use in protecting yourself and your family.
>
	[good recommedations of handguns deleted]
I wont argue with Jims' choice of handguns, but I would like to state that 
IMHO, a shotgun with buckshot is a much more effective weapon at household
ranges. Also, there is less of a chance of your errant shot penetrating
you abode with enough force to kill an innocent bystander. The downside to 
a legal length shotgun is that they can be unwieldly in a small space. On
the positive side is that they are easier to use effectively (easier to
hit what you're aiming at) and they have tremendous deterent potential.
What I mean by "deterent potential" is, very few people will take hostile
action when covered by a shotgun. The well known effectiveness of a shotgun
usually eliminates any thoughts of inflicting harm to the person holding 
the shotgun.
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jerry Culp   Motorola Computers       |   My employer disavows all knowledge 
National Technical Support Center     |   of any opinions expressed by me
                                      |   on this or any subject.
From: millerj@belize.crd.ge.com (Julia K. Miller)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: wood floor or carpet?
Date: 27 Aug 92 12:50:45 GMT
Reply-To: belize!millerj@steinmetz.UUCP (Julia K. Miller)
Distribution: na
Organization: GE Corporate Research & Development

In article <1992Aug27.105925.7484@cbnews.cb.att.com> trb@cbnews.cb.att.com (tom.balent) writes:
>>Carpet is easier to care for then hardwood, 
>
>I do not think that wood is hard to care for. A quick go over with a
>broom is all that is needed once in a while. While with carpet you have
>to lug out your vacuum and run it over and over the whole room. And 
>don't forget having Stanley Steamer come in and shampoo (or doit
>yourself). And what about spills on a carpet? Or what about when you
>come home after a big drunk and hurl chunks in the livingroom (don't
>you hate it that happens?)
>

	Someone/something getting sick on a hardwood floor doesn't do it any
good either.  Our golden retriever had a case of stomach flue and barfed
right by the front door on our oak floor.  It discolored the floor.  We
had to have someone come in and strip off the effected planks.  They had
a honey colored wax finish.  The planks that were stripped still haven't
faded to match the rest of the floor so I guess we are going to have to have
the whole floor redone.  Sigh!  That was an expensive stomach ache!

Julia
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best)
Subject: Re: Eletric dryer - running but not drying
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 22:22:21 GMT
Organization: your service

Several responses have made reference to thermostats.  I'm
not sure if that's the same thing as a thermal cutout, which
may exist in several places near the element.  They look
(something) like a power transistor, with a small (.75 to 1")
circular face exposed to the heat.  They're supposed to
be a temporary cutout in high-heat situations, but one may
have opened permanently.  Pull the wires from each one and
ohm 'em out, expecting near-zero when cold.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: vacuum cleaners - which one?
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:29:31 GMT

Donald P Perley writes
> In article <17127@ulysses.att.com> smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)  
writes:
>    The big problem with using a shop vac is that they generally lack beater
>    attachments for dealing with carpeting.
> 
> I believe Sears now has a beater bar nozzle available (extra cost). 

You can probably attach most suction-driven beater bar heads to any vacuum.  
Miele makes one that sells for about $60. It works well for my low-medium  
profile carpet.
From: tgreen@daisy.WichitaKS.NCR.COM (Tim Green)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Basement Finishing - What to do????
Date: 25 Aug 92 12:56:40 GMT
Reply-To: tgreen@daisy.WichitaKS.NCR.COM (Tim Green)
Distribution: usa
Organization: NCR Corporation, Wichita KS

I am getting ready to start finishing my basement, with a goal of completing
the project by Christmas.  Thus, time is a major roadblock.  Just thought I'd
ask those who have experience with basement finishing, where would it be most
beneficial to hire out some of the work.  In other words, what are the hardest
(most time consuming) jobs and would it be worth it to pay someone to do it
instead.  I would prefer to do it all myself, but don't feel I'll have the
time to finish it by Christmas.  If anyone out there has good suggestions for
the best parts to hire out, I'd appreciate any advice.  Thanks!!
-- 
Tim Green - Applications Engr.| INTERNET: Tim.Green@WichitaKS.NCR.COM
Product Marketing Services    | PHONE: (316)-636-8553   FAX: (316)-636-8889
NCR Peripheral Products Div.  |        VP 654-8553           VP 654-8889
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott)
Subject: Re: It looks like carpenter ants...
Organization: /etc/organization
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 16:55:00 GMT


And a followup question:  Is diazanon the right chemical to use?  I saw
a chemical called "burban" or "burzane" or something and the package said
that it replaced the now baned "chlordane".  Is this better to use then
diasanon?

Also, should I use liquid or powder or both?  Should I drill holes?  Which
chemical would the ants track back to thier nest?

Thanks again for any advice and/or insight!

Marc
----
Two of the worst things we teach our children are that a knowledge of science
is nice but not necessary, and a knowledge of sex is necessary but not nice.

Marc Guyott              Constellation Software, Inc.          (508) 620-2800
                         Framingham, Mass. 01701 USA                Ext. 3135
mguyott@primerd.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!primerd.prime.com!mguyott
mguyott@eriador.prime.com       ...!{uunet, decwrl}!eriador.prime.com!mguyott
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Is homesteading still possible?
Keywords: homestead
Date: 3 Sep 92 22:35:20 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1992Sep2.132011.6408@sunova.ssc.gov> butteris@dingus.ssc.gov writes:

>I was wondering if any countries, including the USA, still homestead. If  
>so, which ones and how do I get more information about them? 

A variant of homesteading is alive and well in many cities in the US.
What they'll do is allow you to "buy" a piece of dilapidated property
for a nominal fee (perhaps $1). The property will be *very* rundown,
usually in a slum area, and usually confiscated for non-payment of
taxes. You have to sign an agreement to have it fixed up to code within
a few years (Atlanta required two years) and you could not sell it for
a somewhat longer period (Atlanta held the title for five). You also
have to prove up front that you have either the skills and time or the
money to fix it up.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Zero Defects": The result of shutting down a
                    |    production line.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------