HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: munoz@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (David Munoz)
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Organization: Boeing Computer Services
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:50:32 GMT

Greg Tollefson (gregt@hfglobe.intel.com) wrote:



: I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
: going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both 
: handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.

: Greg T.

I don't know about the other brands, but my Makita 9.6 volt has
low speed (high torque) and high speed (low torque) settings.  The only 
problem I've had with 3" drywall screws is breaking them off
from two much torque in hard wood.

David Munoz

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: biz@soil.princeton.edu (Dave Bisignano)
Subject:  Nova Chuck Question
Originator: news@nimaster
Reply-To: biz@soil.Princeton.EDU
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 14:30:52 GMT

I have never used the screw chuck attachment on
my chuck.  Now I have a need for it and I'd like to 
know how far on the screw the wood is supposed 
to go.  I tried the other day and could not get the
wood all the way to the chuck face cuz the screw
gets too wide toward the face, if I drill a larger hole
the threads would never grab.  Am I supposed to 
put the screw further into the chuck or just not have
the wood against the face???

Thanks
--Dave 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: gnc@ace.acadiau.ca (GRAHAM CHEESEMAN)
Subject: Re: thickness planer minimum (thinness planer?)
Organization: Acadia University
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 12:06:32 GMT

In article <22JAN199316241003@perkin.caltech.edu> djt@perkin.caltech.edu (David Thompson) writes:
>From: djt@perkin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
>Subject: thickness planer minimum (thinness planer?)
>Date: 22 Jan 1993 16:24 PST

>I used to plane wood to 1/8-inch in a Ryobi 10" planer (I don't remember
>the model number) without a carrying board. On good, solid, stable wood like
>hard maple or ebony, no problems, but I had a 1/8-inch thick board of 
>bubinga that pretty much exploded in the planer (no injuries). I guess that
>particular board was too brittle to stand up to the vibrations in the planer.

>A carrying board seems like a good idea to use on thin boards. A note, though:
>I believe the carrying boards have a step cut in them, to support the back
>end of the thin board as it runs through the planer (ASCII pic follows).

>                                    (thin board goes here)----------
>                   ---------------------------------------         |
><= feed direction  |    carrying board                             |
>                   -------------------------------------------------

>Also, I'm not sure I'd want to do this without hot-gluing the thin board 
>down, or something like that. No, I haven't actually used this method, just
>my $0.02 worth of observations.

>        **************  HELP!  ******************
>Would someone on rec.ww who works on a VMS machine (if there are any left 
>out there, astronomy is a bit behind the times!) please contact me via
>e-mail, I have a couple of newsnet questions I can't seem to figure out.
>Thanks - I'm at djt@deimos.caltech.edu.

>Dave.
I also own a Ryobi AP-10 thickness planer and questioned the line in the 
instruction manual which thicknessing to 1/2" or greater.  There appears to 
be plenty of clearance for the blades to cut thinner planks but quite 
possible the vibration problem is what the manufacturer is trying to avoid.  
A carrying board would not solve this problem as the thin board would 
vibrate on the surface of the thicker board.




       ==============================================================
                            Graham N. Cheeseman
                     Biology Dept., Acadia University
                           Wolfville, Nova Scotia
                                  B0P 1X0
                     TEL:  (902) 542-2201 EXT 334/316
                 INTERNET:  GRAHAM.CHEESEMAN@ACE.ACADIAU.CA
       ==============================================================
From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:19:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:

> 
> 
> Anyone ever used a forstner bit in a hand held electric drill?
> What were the results like? 
> 
> I need to drill a 1 3/8" hole for a clock movement (a mini clock
> from Clockit).  I am willing to spend $20 for a forstner bit
> but not $300 for a drill press.  If I buy the bit, will it even
> be useable?
> 
> Dave KRoth
> kroth@kodak.com
> 
> 
	Dave, if you have a router, why not just draw the hole on your
board and route to the line with a straight bit?

						-Shaw
From: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com (Chris Heiny)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Deluxe Uniguard
Date: 27 Jan 93 16:11:15 GMT
Reply-To: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY

In article 2260@bdrc.bdrc.bd.com, ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi) writes:
>The new Unigard is called the Deluxe Unigard model XX-XXX (I forget).  I just 
>purchased one and installed it on a 10" Contractors saw with 30" unifence.
>
>BTW, I purchased mine from Phelps Bros in upstate NY for $189 + $10 shipping.  
>They are also available from Tool Crib of the North or Tools ON Sale (I forget which) 
>for $219 delivered.
>
>Jamshed B. Ghandhi

Jamshed,

I didn't know the Uniguard would mount to the Contractor's Saw (maybe this is 
new with the deluxe, or I'm just wrong to start with).  How does it mount?  
Where in upstate NY is Phelps Bros?  This sounds worth looking into!

						Chris
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: neves@aristotle.ils.nwu.edu (David &)
Subject: Re: How do I start with $500?
Organization: The Institute for the Learning Sciences
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 16:37:20 GMT

: In article <1jptotINNcls@cronkite.cisco.com>, echi@cisco.com (Eric P. Chi) writes:
: |> I plan to setup some equipments to build some bookshelf kind thing
: |> for my study room and garage. I am wondering whether I should buy a table
: |> saw or radial saw? Or do I really need those fancy equipments? 
: |> Also if is there brand/model you can recommend? My budget is ~$500.

: Your budget of $500 is too low to invest in a table saw at this
: time.

I want to make sure that people are not frightened away from
woodworking just because they don't have thousands of dollars to spend
on tools.  I am sure that the Delta xxx for > $600 (or whatever) is
really nice but many things can be done with less expensive table saws
(< $200) or with circular saws and a good straightedge or even with a
handsaw.  The first thing I ever built (last year) was a set of bunk
beds for my 4 year old son with a electric drill, circular saw, and
cheap finishing sander.  I got the design from a book whose author
said that his first woodworking was with one portable power tool and a
bunch of hand tools.  His plans used simple bolt joining that required
little in the way of sophisticated tools.  Perhaps some wouldn't call
this woodworking but I had lots of fun and my son enjoys it immensely.

If you don't do a lot of sophisticated woodworking you can get away
with the less expensive brand of tool.  I have a Skil portable drill
and a circular saw that have lasted 10 years with light use.  I
recently got an inexpensive Skil table saw that I like a lot and even
bought a cheapo Sears (I can hear the groans now) router that I've
used for a couple of things.  The cheaper tool may not last as long,
may not be as accurate or powerful, and may take longer to set up, but
for someone just starting out doing light work it may provide a good
learning tool.

: Let's fix this first, go out and find a "Clamp 'N Tool Guide" of suitable
: length for your work.
Sounds like a good idea.  My first straightedge was the edge of some
particleboard I had lying around.

-david


--
neves@ils.nwu.edu
Institute for the Learning Sciences, 1890 Maple, Evanston Il 60201
From: rossane@bnr.ca (Steve Rossanese)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:09:11 GMT
Reply-To: rossane@bnr.ca (Steve Rossanese)
Distribution: world
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.

In article 1993Jan18.141648.23775@nynexst.com, Edward Smierciak writes :

>I've located the 10" Contractor's Saw with 30" Unifence for 
>what amounts to $649 plus tax.  The outfit is "Tools Plus" in
>Waterbury, CT.  I don't know shipping details, because I
>was able to have them just drop it in my trunk.  BTW, they 
>have the 10" Contractor's with Jet Lock Fence (34-444)
>for $549 plus tax.  The details of the transaction are:

>10" Contractor's Saw with 30" Unifence   $699.99 
>(Delta model no. 34-445)

>CT state sales tax                        $42.00
>--------------------------------------   --------
>Sub Total                                $741.99

>Delta Rebate:                            ($50.00)
>--------------------------------------   --------
>Total                                    $691.99


>Tools Plus
>153 Meadow Street
>Waterbury, CT 06702
>1-800-222-6133


     A week or so ago I asked that when talkin about major tool purchases
that if possible you include the model number and price. I also said that
seeing the prices for these tools from the States was in a strange way,
funny to us Canadians. Here what I mean :

     I called the local DELTA supplier in Ottawa and here's the scoop
for the DELTA 10" contractors saw with the UNIFENCE :

10" Contractor's Saw with 30" Unifence   $1219.00
(Delta model no. 34-445)

Prov ssales tax + GST (15%)                182.85
--------------------------------------   --------

(no mention of rebate)
--------------------------------------   --------
Total                                     $1401.85


   By the way, The fella on the phone told me 'That's a good price'

    Gotta be able to laugh at stuff like that !!!


Steve Rossanese
From: msi@ESD.3Com.COM (Mark Isfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Date: 22 Jan 93 01:34:02 GMT

gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson) writes:




>I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
>going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both 
>handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.

>Greg T.
I don't own a 12V drill, but I do use lots of drywall screws.  I find
that my biggest problem (using a Makita 9.6 volt) is that I either:
a) cannot keep the bit meshed with the screw (bit slip)
b) The screw breaks (no lie)

Generally, 2 1/2 " screws go in well, 3" go in if the wood isn't too
hard, and I cannot usually sink 4" screws without a pilot hole.

The only time I have trouble with power is when the battery is in the
last 25-40% of its charge range.  I would think that the extra power
of a 12v would be most useful with a drill bit, square drive screws, 
or some other phillips bits that I don't have.  Also, the battery lifetime 
is probably much better, though I have been happy with my 9.6 volt unit.

One note is that I am assuming that this is a drill driver, with a 
different gear ratio for driving screws.  The lower speed on my drill
is VASTLY better for screws than the higher speed (less torque).

I have noticed a new Makita drill that has 12V, a handier reverse
switch (for right handers), (handier ratio changing... cannot remember), 
belt clip, better balance (T shape, not L), and a few other improvements.
I'd probably buy that one if I was in the market now.  I cannot justify
a second drill though.  I'm sure there are lots of other choices.  My point
is to look at the small features too!

Good Luck
--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Mark Isfeld   
| Mark_Isfeld@3Com.com                     
| 408-764-5167                        
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:59:19 GMT
Subject: Re: Re:      Cutting Plexiglass
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I hate cutting acrylic sheet (Plexiglas)-- it alway seems to craze or shatter.
You have to support it very well, top and bottom, to prevent chatter.  It
seems I have been going at it wrong -- I'll try scoring it next time.  I was
bandsawing it.  Another poster mentioned finishing edges by heating just so
with a propane torch.  I'll have to try that too.

Polycarbonate sheet (Lexan) is so much sweeter to machine, wears better
and is stronger -- it bends instead of shattering.  Trouble is, it costs more.  

I have found good sources of small scrap pieces of Lexan locally.
Tap plastics is one place.  Another is a real raunchy surplus joint with
crazy low prices.  I stocked up there ($.50 per square foot).  I makes
great router bases and little guard plates.
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 24 Jan 93 18:20:35 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.

In article <WOODWORK%93012212041503@IPFWVM.BITNET> HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL (HUNTRESS GARY B) writes:
> I'd like to hear about the projects that everyone is
>working on, just finished, or is planned for the future.
>
>Ok, I'll start.  I'm in the middle of constructing the Shaker wall
>clock featured on NYW two seasons ago.  If it comes out ok its
>going to be a wedding gift.
>

I have three projects that I am currently working on (with help).

#1 Reconstruction of a 1890s cutter (sliegh).  This has been a lot
   of fun and a real chalenge.  I had never worked on a project that
   required bending wood before.

#2 Ox shoeing stock - Mortise and tenon joints in 6 - 8 inch oak 
   beams.  Waiting for spring to finish this one.

#3 Rebuilding the wheels from a early 1900s commercial delevery 
   wagon.

Future projects.

#1 A propane fired forge (not exactly wood working).  We have to
   make some of our own tools.

#2 Restoration of an 1833 Conestoga wagon.

#3 A cook kitchen for my nephews boy scout troop (anybody have any
  plans?)


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Comments on fold-up outfeed tables for Table Saws
From: jesse@mars.slu.edu
Date: 21 Jan 93 17:29:43 CST
Organization: Parks College St. Louis Univ.

In article <14340024@pollux.svale.hp.com>, rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr) writes:
> I consider the outfeed table on a table saw to be a necessity.  It is dangerous
> to have parts falling off the back uncontrolled as well as damaging to small
> pieces of stock hitting the concrete.  I am surprised there is not more talk
> about something so useful & basic.
> 
	< remainder deleated >
>  Good luck!
>  Rob
> 
> 
   
The local wood supply company (St. Louis Hardwards) build a 'outfeed' cabnet
with a smooth top that simply sits (on castors) behind their Delta saw.

I am planing to build the same thing.  I will use meliniate (spelling) since it
has the veneer already on both sides.  This will function as an outfeed table
for my saw, a router table and an assembly table/work area.  It will also have
drawers/shelves.

Jesse
  
 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ell@linus.mitre.org (Edward L. Lafferty)
Subject: Re: wood filler
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:53:24 GMT

In article <93Jan22.135418cst.15607@utdallas.edu> JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
Path: linus.mitre.org!linus!agate!netsys!pagesat!olivea!uunet!paladin.american.edu!auvm!UTDALLAS.BITNET!JROBERTS
   From: JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts)
   Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
   Date: 22 Jan 93 19:42:59 GMT
   Sender: Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET>
   Lines: 22
   Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

   On Fri, 22 Jan 1993 07:01:34 -0600 robert.j.lansing said:
   >I'm looking for a decent wood filler to repair some chips
   >in a piece of furniture (wood species - fir).  In the
   >past I've tried various wood fillers - plastic wood,
   >Elmers wood filler, etc - they don't work very well..
   >Any recommendations?
   >
   >-Bob Lansing
   >mvrjl@mvgpf.att.com

   I just received a copy of Woodworkers Supply Finishing catalog (or something
   like that).  The info it contains is about 80% finishes and the like.  They
   have a colored-stick-wax thingy that you heat up and drip over the damaged
   area and let cool, you then heat up a special tool again and scrape off the
   excess.  Lots of colors, I'd never seen this stuff before although it's
   probably been around for awhile.  My mother-in-law has some Ethan Allen
   furniture that was damaged during a move and I've been wondering if this
   would be a good application....basic wood fillers just won't do..
   This "system" of wood repair has a proper name but I don't have the catalog
   with me..

   Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALL

The stuff you are talking about is "stick shellac". Been around for
years. It is used for patching work that is already finished (with
varnish, poly, shellac, etc.) There are lots of colors to match the
finish on the original. After sanding down (with 600 grit or finer)
you still should polish with a Padlac to protect the patch. This does
not act like Plastic Wood or any other raw wood patching compounds.
Most of those don't take stain very well - ok for painting. 

--
Regards,
Ed Lafferty

----------------------------------->>
External:                           Internal Mail addresses at MITRE: 
ell@mitre.org			ell@Ed   (Unix mail)
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 21 Jan 1993 06:24:59 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET (Jim Morgan) says:

>>build in peace
post in peace as well

>
>Thank you for your condescending post.  You seem to have interpreted my
>comments to mean exactly the opposite of what I had intended.  Moreover,
>we seem to be watching different shows.  Everytime I watch, all I see is
>NA saying, "now I'll use my xxxx to do this ... now I'll use my xxxx to
>do that ... "  I don't ever recall him saying, 'now I'll use my xxx to do
>this, rather than my yyy, because ...' or 'now I'll use my xxx to do this,
>but if you don't have one, you could also use yyy.'  I think that the
>unfortunate message this sends to aspiring woodworkers is that you can't do
>much unless you can invest thousands of dollars in esoteric gimcracks.
>
>BTW, I'm certainly not looking for 'step by step' instructions on how to build
>what NA is working on - if I were I'd just go out and buy his books.  What I
>am looking for is information on woodworking techniques, so I can expand
>my problem-solving armamentorium.  I agree with you that problem solving is
>a lot of the fun of woodworking; I just think this aspect of the craft is
>slighted by the show.
>
>Jim Morgan
>Brown University

On the contrary, Norm does indeed show how to perform the same task with
a wide variety of techniques and tools. He doesn't usually do so on the
same show, however.

Norm ( or someone on the crew or staff) have come up with a number of
highly inventive solutions to problems that the home woodworker might
encounter while building any project. His jigs and fixtures are very
impressive, at least to this humble craftsman. I have been able to use
many of his solutions to help me come up with my own.

I only wish I had a damn pneumatic nailer! :-)

Dave


-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: spillane@ctron.com (White Knight)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Exotic Hardwood
Date: 26 Jan 93 12:39:29 GMT
Reply-To: spillane@ghostwheel.samsung.com (White Knight)
Organization: Cabletron Systems INc.

I'm looking for information on an exotic hardwood
called "Sonokeling Wood"  I'm planning on buying
a pool cue made from this wood, and would like
to know its origins and properties.  Anyone?

-Jim
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf, X6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: metalworking
Date: 26 Jan 93 21:10:42 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

"rec.crafts.metalworking" does exist, but it's only been up (as a "non-trial") since
the beginning of December.

jk
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: SCC@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu (Scott C. Crumpton)
Subject: Dust collector / whole-house vacuum system
Organization: University of Florida, NERDC
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 15:48:39 EST

My garage is my shop and I need to get the dust under control.  I
would also like to install a whole-house vacuum system.  Does anyone
have any experience using a dust collector as a whole-house vacuum in
addition to its intended purpose?  Or how about using a whole house
vacuum as a dust collector?
 
---Scott.    scc@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu
From: mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 21 Jan 93 15:38:31 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: GTE Laboratories

In article <msi.727583028@buila.NSD.3Com.COM>, msi@ESD.3Com.COM (Mark
Isfeld) wrote:
 
> Well, actually I have no experience in this.  I have only had the setup
> for a month now.  So far, the yellow wheels have been succesful holding
> the piece against the fence (as well as down), so I have not yet experienced
> a real kickback.  (I think jointing the boards may help prevent kickback
> also)
> 
> Now if one occured, I expect the board would lift up the yellow wheels
> (since the spring tension will be only slightly higher for the first
> portion of an inch, and the fence was holding down the spring before)
> and the board will be able to shift on the blade, the kickback will end
> and the board will come slaming down.
> 
> On the other hand it might be possible for the board to get wedged
> in such a way that the board continues to be driven by the blade as 
> it comes off the table.  If that happens I don't know what might happen.
> It seems likely that the fence may lift up, and its possible that some
> damage to the fence could occur.
> 
> I admit I had not considered this much.  I guess I though most kickbacks
> were in the horizontal direction, not vertically up.  But thinking about
> it now I don't see why that should be true.
> 
> Your point makes me think twice about trying to add a rear support.
> All it should take is the right size angle bracket, a small peice of flat
> steel, and some drilling/tapping.  The back catch would engage if the fence 
> lifted more than a 1/4 inch or so.  I'll have to leave some room in the
> outfeed table I'm building tommorow!  Thanks for making think about this
> more. I wonder why Biesemeyer doesn't do this?
> 
> --

Mark,

I've been looking at 3rd party fences for several weeks trying to determine
which one to buy. I've asked Biesemeyer the exact question you asked above.
The reply, which makes sense, is that since the front bar is rectangular in
cross-section, there is no way for the fence to lift up more than a
fraction of an inch by rotating around it. The fence would have to
literally break off of the front carrage assembly. A rear hook is not
necessary but if it makes you feel better then why not!

The Vega fence I'm also considering has a round front bar. The fence could
lift and rotate around the bar. Guess what, Vega has added a small
angle-iron hook to the rear of their fence to prevent this rotation.
	
By the way, which model and size of Biesemeyer do you have? (mail is fine).
And how do the board buddies attach to the fence?

thanks,
michael