HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Hor Technology Cam
Date: 11 Jan 93 22:25:52 GMT
Organization: Infinity Development, Waltham, MA

rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:

>Autotech stuff is generally good quality. I have the Authotech/Hor cam in the 86 G
>86 GTI, and it has well over 150k miles on it (using Mobil 1 of course). I've
>had no problems with it.

What kind of power increase did you get?  i.e., where does the cam
kick in, how far up does the power hold out, how much faster is the
car, how was the bottom end torque affected?

-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
From: paul@hsh.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '72 vw beetle info needed...
Date: 4 Jan 93 21:43:12 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1htbnlINNp2t@agate.berkeley.edu>, map@violet.berkeley.edu (Pollen Lab;103 ESB;38108;;NZ29) writes:
> In article <1992Dec24.005802.158@midway.uchicago.edu> newark@befvax.uchicago.edu writes:
>>
>>I just acquired (by accident) a '72 vw bug...
> 
> lack of heat and defrost isn't all that bad--you have to wear all those
> heavy clothes when you get out of the car anyway, right?  More than once
> I have used my scraper on the inside of the windshield.

I almost lost a girlfriend that way!

I picked her up one frosty evening -- one of our first dates -- and
naturally, the INside of the windshield immediately frosted up.  At the time,
I was a window cleaner, so without thinking, I reached into the glovebox and
whipped out a mean-looking single-edged razor blade.  Hoo-boy, the look on
her face... 

------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ 

Paul Havemann, VP        HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 | 1-800-UPDATES
Internet: paul@hsh.com   Compuserve: 70410,3507  America On-Line: HSH Assoc
  ...Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the company...
From: sdm91r@ecs.soton.ac.uk (Stuart Maclean)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: VW Bus Heater
Date: 5 Jan 93 11:20:01 GMT

Hi All, this is my first posting to this board, so I hope this
question is relevant. I have a 19777 Type 2 Bus and I'm trying to fix
the heating. The three cables which attach to the one blue and two red
levers on the dash don't work properly because a small clamp has
fallen out of the fixing and I've lost it. Does anybody know of
somewhere in the UK (or even US) where I can get good spares such as
this. A main dealer has already said that the part isn't made by VW
anymore. All suggestions gratefully appreciated.

-- 
Stuart Maclean,
Dept of Electronics and Computer Science,
University of Southampton.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: davidb@sdf.lonestar.org (David Brandon)
Subject: cabriolet voltage stabalizer
Keywords: cabriolet, vw
Organization: sdf public access Unix, Dallas -- 214-436-3281
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 06:56:36 GMT

 i have a 85 cabriolet and the instrument panel works sometimes...
 since this has started, i have replace the voltage stabilizer and
 this fixed the problem for the next 1000 miles, but once again
 the panel doesnt work. i have the vw service manual and the
 schematics only show the stabilizer as the weak link.
 Doth anyone have any idea on why this thing either doesnt work
 or why it keeps on commiting suicide?!

 db
From: v129qp43@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: (w) dash electrical probs
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:38:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Just had a couple of ideas here.  First, for those of you
who've changed your voiltage stabilizer, is it grounded?
I recall somtheing about the metal backing plate needing to
touch the circuit board.  Second, have you checked for 
basic electrical faults; eg. what shape is your fuse box in?
Mine was very corroded in several places, including the plug
which bears most of the harness for the dash electricals,
including power for dash lights, clock, radio, etc.  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cs@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (cetin.seren)
Subject: need help w/87 Vanagon
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:05:59 GMT
Keywords: Vanagon, gas tank




Hi netters,

I need some help with my '87 Vanagon camper.  The fuel tank developed
a relatively big hole and I found another fuel tank from the local
junkyard (sorry, VW part recyclists :-) , and installed it.  My problem
is, when I was taking the old tank out, I could not tell where one of the
hoses that should have been connected to the Y shaped connector on the
drivers side was.  I was very careful in lowering it, and To the best that
I could see, one end of the Y-connector came attached to the hose
from the evaporation tank, just like the one under the passenger side.
But, the other end of the Y-connector looked unconnected, and I could not
see any hoses dangling around.

So, Now, I get a pretty bad fuel leak if I fill up the tank.  I do O.K. if 
keep the fuel level under or about half a tank.  I've also verified that
the tank itself is fine and the fuel is spilling off the open side of 
the Y-connector.

Would anyone in the net have a repair manual of sorts that they could
fax me the fuel tank replacement pages out of (yes, I was stupid enough to
attempt it without a manual)?  The dealer says teh repair manual costs $85
and takes about 2 weeks to get, if I want to order it.  I feel that's
too much to pay, and it is more of a ransom money so you'll be turned off
and let the dealer do it....  I suppose there are cheaper manuals 
written by non-vw blessed companies, but I thought for something
this simple, maybe I can get some help from the net.


I'll appreciate any ideas/opinions....

			Thanks,
			Cetin Seren
	please reply to: cs@karin.att.com 
                         (replying to this message will also work, it will just
			  take longer to reach me)


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tvtjet@eua.ericsson.se (Jorgen Eriksson)
Subject: Re: Brakes Front?
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 12:49:36 GMT

drew@bnr.co.uk (Scooby Doo) writes:

>	Hello again.

 ...zap...

>driving round a number of roundabouts with reasonably heavy braking and
>acceleration when the brakes faded right out. Now I replace the front brake
>with new pads in october and they are still fine (visual inspection) but
>they are obvious not the best quality ones. I was used to brake fade in my
>old VW Polo, but wasn't expecting it in the GTi quite so quick, it was only
>the legendary handling that kept me on the road!! The car just had it's MOT
>and passed the test no problem, but I'm not happy with the brakes. Should
>I try different pads or is there something wrong? Bare in mind this is
>Britain!!

>Drew.

	Try pads suited for rally. There are many to 
	choose between, from Ferrodo, Mintex etc. 
	In Britain it shouldn't be that hard to find a dealer...
	And from what i've seen, the prices are good too.
	(Compared to Sweden anyway...)
	If i remember it right i used a compound called 
	Ferrodo(?) BXMB (for my rally FIAT 131) they are 
	also very fine for every day driving. A friend of 
	mine experienced real heavy fading with these
	pads, after a 25km special stage...Under normal 
	conditions they will never fade. I wouldn't choose 
	racing pads, their performance when cold is bad. 
	You really have to work that pedal.

	Best regards,
		Jorgen (Jorgen.Eriksson@eua.ericsson.se)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: [A]:Floods and VWs...some Questions....
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 01:21:01 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.154439.13526@bsu-ucs>, 01ksdavis@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu (Rebel without a pause.) writes:
>
>	I know, I know, I am tempting fate here by posting this, but I have had
>the experience of owning two air-cooled VWs in a climate and an area where 
>flooding is a natural occurence.  Enough of a natural occurence for me to notice
>that both cars that I have had floated successfully through the worst spots one
>could imagine.
>
>	Instances like that make me proud to be a VW owner.
>
>	My question is, I notice after these forced-nautical maneuvers, certain
>things happen to the car.
>
>	1.)Windows fog up, and I mean really quick like.  Outside of keeping a
>	   towel handy, what's the best way of combatting this?
The windows fogging up are as a result of water getting into the heater
boxes, turning to steam and comming through the heater channels and
out against a cooler windshield...and voila...condensation. Best way
of combatting this other than a towel....dont drive in big puddles..


>
>	2.)The brakes disappear.  Totally.  I handle this by driving slow and
>	   letting them dry out (not easy in a wet climate.)  Pumping the brakes
>	   seems to help some.  Is there any way to prevent this?
>
Drum brakes have this nasty habit of fading when they get wet. Two ways
of preventing this...1. spend lots of money and convert to disk brakes
front and rear...or 2. dont drive in big puddles...


>	3.)Also, besides rust-proofing, what else should I do to a VW that has
>	   to put up with this?
Make sure you air the interior of your car out so the floor boards won't
rust....infact paint them with rustoleum or the like...make sure your 
car is waxed, and there are no scratches or area of bare metal....
or dont drive in big puddles

Ric

>
>	Any answers you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
>
>-- 
>1234567890223456789032345678904234567890523456789062345678907234567890823456789?
>	Kyle S. Davis		01ksdavis@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu?	R R 2 BOX 103
>Disclaimer:  If anybody else has my opinions,                   Alexandria, IN
>then I have been cloned while sleeping!                            46001
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:53:50 GMT

A couple of things to ponder if you are going for a complete rebuild and
performance upgrade on an air-cooled engine.

Even if you are not going for high revs, a good engine balance will do wonders
for smoothness and durability.  But, you need to do the complete setup: crank,
pistons, rods, alternator pulley and most importantly the flywheel and pressure
plate. (The clutch disk is of little effect).  Doing a crank balance alone would
be a waste of money.   I went this full balance route on the '62 Bug I built up
some years ago (like in '69).  First I took the flywheel down and had the metal
bulk on the engine side of the ring gear turned down to where the metal thickness
was fairly uniform and equal to the ring gear thickness.  This dropped 8 pounds
of weight from the perimeter of the 22 pound flywheel.   Then I took all the parts
down to a company specializing in engine balancing.  (I used Precision Balancing
in Indianapolis, at the time: not sure if they are still there).  Such a flywheel 
trim and full balance gives you an incredibly responsive engine.  

The temptation with engine performance mods is to upgrade the clutch, but beware
of those center spring (Belville, I believe) or the so-called over-center clutches.
They are either in or out and difficult to use smoothly on the street.  Just go
for a good heavy-duty pressure plate and better disk material.

I noticed port and polish was on the list.  I did this as well, but found that
it was the cause of a valve failure about a year later.  Be careful to not
remove very much metal around the valve guides.  I completely removed the "bump"
around the guides so there was an more direct path.  This weaken the valve guide
so that it eventually began to wobble.  The valve then wobbled, which caused the
valve head to twist each time it hit the seat.  Eventually, PING! the head of the
valve fell off and found the piston.  The rest I will leave to your imagination!
Morale of the story, keep a fair amount of metal around the valve guides clear
up to their top.

I also agree with "decking" and line-boring the case.  

Another trick is to get a fan with fewer blades (I forget which years they
were on) as this will reduce the fan load at high revs.  Of course, you will then
need to keep the revs up to get the same cooling.  Removing the thermostatic
control ring also helps reduce air drag, but will cause the engine to be "cold
natured" during warmup.

Sounds like fun.

Mark

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kwatson@kwatson.mentorg.com (Keith Watson)
Subject: Re: What's up with that...
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1993 16:46:11 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

In article <2884203EC400.2.0@sscl.uwo.ca>, 2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca writes:
|> 
|> Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?

The radio isn't hooked up to a switched power source.  There was an article
a while back in "European Car" explaining how to fix it.  Undo part of the
trim under the lower left of the dash and find the brown wire with the red
stripe under the steering column.  This wire receives power as soon as the
key is inserted even when the key is in the off position.  Find the switched
power lead on the back of the radio.  Disconnect this wire from its current
power source (no pun intended) and splice it into the brown/red wire.  Ta da!

|> But not quite as crazy as the gear shift.  Reverse... what's up with that?  
|> What is wrong with the standard five-speed pattern that the rest of the 
|> world uses.  Do people like having their shifters move up and down?

I'm used to it since the 68 squareback my dad had shifted this way.

|> Hey, don't get me wrong... I love my car - but, I will never understand the 
|> logic behind these items.  What do you think

I love my car too.
-- 
Keith Watson              Mentor Graphics Corporation (Wilsonville, OR)
kwatson@mentorg.com       keith_watson@mentorg.com
Flog Racing               VW Golf H Production
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Changing the brake fluid....?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 02:54:37 GMT

In article <93007.151915IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, Nicholas C. Hester <IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes:
>Well, I had my 30k mile checkup the other day.  I talked with the
>service manager about changing the brake fluid as the book said, but
>he said that it was a waste of time and could cause problems ie air
>in the lines.  He said that he'd do it but he'd never performed it
>on Saabs (their other line of cars) and it was ok.  I relented and
>didn't have him do it.
>
>Ok, does it really make that much of a difference if I don't have it
>changed?  What does the group think?
>
>Thanx in advance!
>
>___
>
>  Nicholas  Hester
>ia80024@Maine.bitnet
>ia80024@Maine.maine.edu
I'd recommend getting it changed every 3 yrs or 50k miles. If you want
to do it yourself, get out a JC Whitney catalogue and order their
little vaccuum-gun brake bleeder kit. This device "sucks" brake fluid
from the resevoir to whichever bleeder you happen to be at.

The object of this exercise is to "suck" new, clean, fluid out to 
all four corners of your car. By doing it with the vaccuum pump,
you can avoid "air" in your lines.

Ric
From: noorder@aurora.cis.upenn.edu (Alexander Noordergraaf)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: GTi dashboard electrical problems
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:30:24 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <C0MLyD.JJ4@sdf.lonestar.org>, davidb@sdf.lonestar.org (David Brandon) writes:
|>  i have a 85 cabriolet and the instrument panel works sometimes...
|>  since this has started, i have replace the voltage stabilizer and
|>  this fixed the problem for the next 1000 miles, but once again
|>  the panel doesnt work. i have the vw service manual and the
|>  schematics only show the stabilizer as the weak link.
|>  Doth anyone have any idea on why this thing either doesnt work
|>  or why it keeps on commiting suicide?!

	Howdy,

	I have also been having problems with the dashboard on an '83 GTi.
The speedo works, but the tach and none of the check lights work. Also,
the 5 Amp fuse for the dash has shorted out.  Does anyone have a suggestion
as to what might be the problem?  Also, the temp/gas/voltage gauges don't
work either.

	Any suggestions appreciated..

	Thanks, Alex (noorder@aurora.cis.upenn.edu)




Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bew@brahms.udel.edu (Ben Williams)
Subject: decelerating by downshifting 
Summary: Is this a good way to slow down?
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 06:46:36 GMT


Someone recently asked about warming up the engine before driving.  The
following is possibly another `old husband's tale`:

Quite a while ago I got into the (I thought good) habit of downshifting
whenever I needed to slow down.  The rationale I was told was to save the
brakes.  So whenever I am approaching a red light or STOP sign, I will
downshift until I get to 2nd gear and then brake (that is assuming I have
enough space in which to pull this off).  Is this a good driving technique?

This isn't a specifically VW question I know, but I do drive a VW bug.

Ben.

-- 
Ben Williams
bew@brahms.udel.edu

               What we got here is a failure to communicate...
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting
Date: 8 Jan 93 19:36:14 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <C0Iw5o.9ox@news.udel.edu> bew@brahms.udel.edu (Ben Williams) writes:
>
>Someone recently asked about warming up the engine before driving.  The
>following is possibly another `old husband's tale`:
>
>Quite a while ago I got into the (I thought good) habit of downshifting
>whenever I needed to slow down.  The rationale I was told was to save the
>brakes.  So whenever I am approaching a red light or STOP sign, I will


Let's see.  I bought brake pads (Repco MetalMasters) $32.  A new clutch
would cost hmm, about...  $400-$500. :)

Seriously, i rarely downshift if ever and then only in an emergency, or
to put pesky Accord/Integra in its place.  MY REAR VIEW MIRROR! ;]


>downshift until I get to 2nd gear and then brake (that is assuming I have
>enough space in which to pull this off).  Is this a good driving technique?
>
>This isn't a specifically VW question I know, but I do drive a VW bug.
>
>Ben.
>
>-- 
>Ben Williams
>bew@brahms.udel.edu
>
>               What we got here is a failure to communicate... 

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Lead Additives
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:27:40 GMT

Now that the 56 will finally be on the road, I need to think
about using unleaded gas. Unfortunately, I have yet to find 
a source for unleaded valve seats and guides for a 36 hp
motor. So I think I'll have to use an additive.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a lead additive?

Ric
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A] Bus BBS
Date: 4 Jan 1993 14:44:37 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hey now, all.

This showed up on rec.music.gdead.  I haven't checked it out yet.

---
For those of you with a VW van and a modem, I just found out about a BBS
devoted to them. It is called POPTOPS (although the first logon menu says
"CACHE". It can be found at (818)880-8700. Does anyone know of any clubs,
groups, etc. dealing with VW vans?

---

I followed up to the messege, mentioning VWCA, VVWCA, SOTO and LiMBO.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
wpc@po.cwru.edu
From: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 85 GLI-Platinum Plugs?
Date: 8 Jan 1993 20:57:25 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

I have been using Bosch platinums since they were introduced on my 85
Jetta. The only advantage to me is their long life. I change them every
4th service interval, 30k miles. 

My experience has been that the heat ranges on these plugs are a little
hotter than their numbers would indicate. The most horsepower I ever
bought for $12 came when I switched to D*6** plugs from 7's. The cryptic
number is the next colder platinum Bosch plug, I can't recall all the 
letters.

I suspect that there are a lot of folks out there who have paid big
money for hop-ups and are not getting full value because they are not using
the right heat-range spark plug.

-Ted Crum
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 02:03:22 GMT

In <Jan.7.11.31.17.1993.3547@tastesgreat.rutgers.edu>
   boubez@tastesgreat.rutgers.edu (Toufic Boubez) writes:

>BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:

>>All the blasted wires and sensors seem like a lot of things to go wrong...
It's the control unit that combines the information from the
sensors. Carb's with anywhere near the ability to do the
same job as FI in terms of quality of fuel delivery under a
wide range of conditions, have linkages, multiple vacuum
lines all over the place, umpteen adjustment screws which
all interact, ...

In terms of fixing a modern FI, the "difficulty" is
isolating the faulty part. In terms of maintaining FI, it's
a lot easier than a carb.

>>Can a Carb - Engine be tuned up to match a FI engine?
>Tricky question here... What do you measure for a match, peak power,
>torque, mileage, etc... there are a lot of parameters.
In general, NO. At least not unless you spend a lot more
money. (Anything's possible if you have enough money and
time.)

Multi-port FI systems are more efficient partly because
there is no manifold wetting to speak of, hence there's no
need to tune the engine for an excess of fuel being
available on trailing throttle, after sudden acceleration.

FI also reduces the lag between fuel requirements being met
due to an increase in throttle opening. In a carb, the
manifold pressure drops as a result of more air being drawn,
and the fuel then accelerates through the jet, mixes and
passes through the manifold, wetting the surfaces, through
to the inlet. FI sense the load change and injects the fuel
at the cylinder inlet. This is one of the reasons why modern
FI engines feel more responsive to throttle changes.

I could write a book about it, but I won't. There's a
Bentley manual on Bosch Fuel Injection which is a good read
and explains a lot about the nitty-gritty, some history, and
some of the things which are possible.

>>Which is better, High Tech, or Low Tech?
>Sorry, but I don't participate in religious arguments :-)

Just enough technology to do the required job.
-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _-,_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /  |   \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.'-._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw