HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: efk00@cd.amdahl.com (Eddie Kieger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mech's favs>> newer cars and computer gizmos
Date: 18 Aug 92 19:24:54 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <Bt5pCo.5yo@world.std.com>, ibe@world.std.com (ira b ekhaus) writes:
>hello,
>
>While my car (an 82 buick skylark that I'd never recommend) was being
>diagnosed I ran into a sales engineer for the test equipment (sun).
>He made the point that if you have a PC, a $200 dollar device can give
                                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Details please???????

>you a very sophisticated home device for diagnosing the newer cars.
>In my own case, a previous mechanic was insistent on a timing gear
>change, while the electronic diagnosis (along with an honest mechanic)
>disagreed with.
>
>Eventually , states will not allow the older. simpler cars on the
>road.  The DIYer's will have to confront the newer technology.  The
>self reliant, computer literate crowd on rec.autos.tech seems to be a
>good place to start this thread.  So..
>
>How useful are these devices,  any first hand experiences?
>Which brands are available and whose are best?
>Can you rent these devices (would the AAA consider renting these)?
>
>thanks,
>ira
>ekhaus


Don't tread on me..........................................I bite
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Eddie Kieger                             efk00@cd.amdahl.com 
For Pay:      System Design Engineer     Amdahl Corp.
              Bringing you better mainframe computers
For Fun:      "River Rat"                SBU-XI SPECWARGRU1 (USNR)
              Bringing hellfire and brimstone to a river near you!
From: georgej@gtephx.UUCP (Jefferson George)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Clutch problem
Keywords: clutch toyota
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:50:49 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems - Phoenix, AZ

In article <4571@rosie.NeXT.COM>, rsherman@sailer.next.com (Rick Sherman) writes:
> Help,
> 
> I seem to be having a problem with my 83 Celica. Today I noticed the  
> clutch go all the way to the floor (First symptom). I could not even put  
> the car in gear. After popping the hood I noticed the cylinder next to the  
> fire wall was empty (second symptom). Due to my limited knowledge with  
> auto repair I figured, hey, I'll run down to the auto parts store, get  
> some brake fluid (the cap indicated DOT 3), dump it in and off I go.
> 
> No such luck. Next I remember performing a brake job on an old car (71  
> Toyota). After adding brake fluid I had to bleed the lines, to eliminate  
> the air. Hey that worked. Now for the question:
> 
> Where do I bleed the air from a Clutch cylinder? I'm not even sure if the  
> two are related. Does anyone have a clue? 
> 
  The air can be bleed at the slave clutch cylinder attached to the transmission
  under the car.

> After fixing this problem, I'll still need to figure out what caused the  
> leak in the first place.
> 
  Had the same problem...  The fluid actually ruined the carpet on the driver's
  side.   It was leaking past a seal inside the master brake cylinder.  I had to
  take the master cylinder off and replace the seal...  The 1 piece part (the
  partsperson referenced as a overhaul kit) was $12...  Took me 4 hrs to complete
  the job. 

  You can also buy a new cylinder for ~$40

-- 
Jefferson George                                    
AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona 
Inet: gtephx!georgej@enuucp.eas.asu.edu   
UUCP: {ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!georgej
From: jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us (Jeff Masterman) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: alarm system recommendati
Date: 18 Aug 92 15:22:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us (Jeff Masterman) 

PT>Does anyone have any recommendations for good alarm
PT>systems?  What are the features to look for, and how
PT>much should they cost?
Buy a "Club" I don't want to have to listen to yet another false
Auto-alarm. (G)...but seriously the HPD says the Club is better anyway.
It goes across the steering wheel and prevents it from being turned.
---
 . OLX 2.2 . It's only a hobby ... only a hobby ... only a
                                                                                                          
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Large Drop in Oil Pressure on Decelleration
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 20:33:47 -0500

 SK>  have just one word for you...oil slosh..okay thats two words...but...
 SK> on hard stops, depending on location of the oil pump..you probably just
 SK> are sloshing all the oil toward the front of the engine and away from
 SK> the pump...

That doesn't explain all cases. I've observed this in cars that had plenty of
oil in the sump and in which the attitude of the engine didn't change
significantly when you took your foot off the gas. I always assumed the pressure
went down because the rod bearing clearances change and perhaps enlarge when the
engine is operating in an overrun condition.
From: beglin@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Gordon Beglin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine/special equip.
Date: 19 Aug 92 10:54:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: oasys.23806
Reply-To: beglin@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Gordon Beglin)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, pwu@pop-tarts.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
>          From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
>          Date: 18 Aug 92 15:30:09 GMT
>
>          ...
>
>          Special equipment required [to read EEC-IV trouble code]:
>
>          1 - (one) Chilton's Electronic Engine Manual ...
>
>          1 - (one) Analog VOM. Rat Shack's got 'em for about $10 nowadays. DON
>'T get
>                  a digital one, you'll need the meter to see the swing.
>

I'm not too sure you need anything like the above. I have an '85 Ranger
that *does* need a VOM or something for the indications, but my '88
T'Bird outputs the codes over the "Check Engine" light.

Viola! Nothing more to hook up! Isn't this the way it should be--
to be able to check your computer without (except for the jumper)
leaving the driver's seat?

Maybe they've changed things on the newer models, but I can't see why
they would want to de-invent helpful things like this.

BTW, I've had not trouble at all out of the EEC-IV that I haven't been
able to fix. Just my experiences.....

Regards,
Gordon Beglin
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Brake pedal -'92 Lincoln -Strange Noise When Starting Off
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 15:24:03 -0500

 >
 > The strange noise begins when you start off and put the
 > car into drive
 > after the car has been parked.  It sounds like a cable
 > being released
 > under the car, which transmits a noise or vibration through
 > the brake
 > pedal.  The dealer says that it is the computer checking
 > the ABS brake
 > system.  This does not sound right to me, because the noise
 > is inter-
 > mittant and does not always do it. Sometimes it does it
it is most likely the abs selfcheck procedure being run to assure 
you thosands of miles of safe and accident free miles of driving. 
 How do ya like the new lincoln--I admire them from afar...



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gladish@suite.suite.com (Brian Gladish)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: Suite Software, Anaheim CA.
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:05:49 GMT

Something that I think has not been pointed out in this thread is that
the TR3's engine may be rebuilt without removing the block from the car.
This task is accomplished by removing the pan, etc. and taking the crank
and pistons out the bottom.  Then take off the head and pound the liners
out from the bottom.  Drop in your new liners, put in your new mains,
etc., and button her back up!  As I have not done this job myself, but
know of those who have, there may be other complications.  The best I know
of have done the job in just over a day.

Brian
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What is the phone number for JC Whitney?
Date: 17 Aug 92 18:13:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: kodak.1992Aug17.181321.22173
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY


What is the phone number for JC Whitney?

Pleas e-mail.

Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Again: VW Carb.
From: Ian.Miller@p0.f140.n772.z3.fido.nacjack.gen.nz (Ian Miller)
Date: 13 Aug 92 1:18:04 GMT
Organization: Infoboard BBS - Auckland - (09) 833-8788 - 

Peter, you said:
PDH>Help: Somebody out there must know somthing about Solex carbs.
PDH>Car: 1981 VW Golf 1300 ls, solex 34 PICT 5 carb.
PDH>Symptom: Irregular idling: hunts between 100 - 2000 revs when it should be
PDH>idling. Often just stalls. ie. take your foot of the throttle at ~3500, it
PDH>drops to 1800, stays around there for a few seconds, then drops to zero.
PDH>If it stays running, it drops to 100, then runs erratically around 100-1000
PDH>occaisionaly jumping to 2000 for a few seconds. Adjusting the pilot air and
PDH>volume screws seem to have no effect.
Scuse me, have you tried cleaning or changing the fuel filter. Sounds
like it's suffering from intermittent fuel starvation at idle. What
happens when you accelerate?
BTW, I  am on the hunt for a 'big bore' throttle assembly
for an injected '79 Golf GLE. Unfortunately it seems they
are not available on the West Coast. We definately cannot get the kit
down here in Kiwiland. The model had the EGR and CIS  kit fitted, and
the single throat assembly replaces the twin throat progressive
throttle assembly fitted as standard. Surely someone must have one
laying around they are no longer using??
Thanks in advance (that's if this makes it outta here :-)
Ian
___
 X SLMR 2.0 X Backup not found: (A)bort (R)etry (P)anic
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: usenet@oracle.us.oracle.com (Oracle News Poster)
Subject: Re: High Perfomance Tires
Reply-To: jgong@oracle.com (John Gong)
Organization: Oracle Internet Staff
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 20:36:35 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

In article <1992Jul31.195001.13733@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>In article <Bs7v9q.55z@taligent.com> tom_santos@taligent.com (Tom Santos) writes:
>>I need to put new rear tires on my 1990 300ZX.  I have been looking at
>>both the Yokohama AVS and A008's.  Does anyone have any experience using
>>these tires or have a better suggestion?
>
>which model A008?  the trick gumballs will be very shortlived on
>the street (ca. 6000 miles)?  in any event, A008s are prone to
>hydroplaning, although the relatively recent versions do stick to
>damp pavement well when there is no standing water.
>

I got 50,000(!) miles on a set of original A008's with an '85 CRX Si.  So,
"your mileage will vary".  Given the car in question, though, I'd expect 
far less longevity with any of the A008 line.


>the AVS is a more general tire.  there are several versions; i'm familiar
>with the AVS-I, which was good in its time, but has been caught up with
>by newer yokos such as the A509 -- the AVS-I is still a better dry pavement
>tire, but not much better, and the A509 is a vastly superior rain
>tire, at a noticeably lower cost.
>
I second that recommendation.  Got 40,000 miles on my A509's with an Audi 80.
I'm just replacing them with Pirelli P600's.  Don't have any comparative
info yet.  The Aa509's were a great tire at a very good price.



>richard



         John
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Missing at idle , was 82 Scirocco
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:04:36 GMT
Distribution: us
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Missing at idle may be due to several things. If the miss is erratic and
"light", it's probably due to too much ignition advance, too lean an idle
mixture or a combination of the two. Hot spots from carbon can exacerbate
the condition.

 A "hard" or "heavy" miss, one that appears to follow a regular pattern or
one that is fairly violent is often due to some gross imbalance between
cylinders. It could be plug fouling due to a local oil leak, a bad plug
wire, a bad lifter or valve, etc. A recently-replaced head gasket may 
be indication of oil or coolant control problems ongoing. A retorqueing
if allowed may be something to try; if the miss settles down, good. Other
head installation-related areas might also contribute to either general
or local mixture problems; for example, the intake manifold seal. Small 
errors become very apparent at idle and may be unnoticeable under more
throttle. A mixture error in one intake runner will contribute to a
regular "miss" pattern.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 07:42:27 GMT

In article <713948443.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
>Subject: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
>Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 23:21:43 -0500

> CA> Just what don't you guys like about Lucas kit ?  Is there something
> CA> in particular that has offended you, or is it just because they
> CA> aren't made in the US of A ?

>I think much of their bad reputation was earned from the early electric fuel
>pumps, then reinforced by the XK-E starters.


Add:
1.
Switchgear -- indictors, fuel pump switches, headlamps, dipswitchs, reverse 
lights.
2.
Fuel injection system: a la Triumph 2500 PI
3.
Heater/ventilation fan motors
4.
Ignition distributors: points, vacuum advance mech. -- don'tcha also just 
love the way these little items attract the least amount of damp/moisture 
and go on strike??
5.
The DREADED SU FUEL PUMP!!!
6.
The INFAMOUS LUCAS IGNITION COIL!!!!
7.
The UNLAMENTED LUCAS BRAND CAR BATTERY -- made of "seconds" componets 'cos 
low cost is more NB than in-service quality.

Signing off....I'm not feeling very well -- the above list's revived too 
many bad memories.

Keith
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM (Matt Rein #3)
Subject: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
To: rec.autos.tech
Posted-Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 07: 23:58 cdt
Organization: Honeywell Systems & Research Center
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 12:23:58 GMT
Received-Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 07: 24:08 CDT

> >>>>I'm starting a new survey.
> >>>>
> >>>>What makes and models of cars are - in your opinion - best designed
> >>>>in the sense of:
> >>>>
> >>>>   a). Easy routine maintenance...
> >>>>   b). Easy repair...
> >>>>
> >>>>...at home (i.e. without a hoist and fancy tools)?
> 
> 
> A '57 Chevy with a small block V8.  There is so much room in the
> engine compartment, you just climb in over the fender, get in there 
> with the engine, and go to work....except that you hardly ever need to.

I would say any pre-'74, rear wheel drive GM with a V8.  Easy to fix and
if you can't find a part for one, you must not be in the U.S.

   _                                             Matt Rein
  / )/              / /                          CFS/MO
 /  /_  _       _  / / _                         Coon Rapids, MN
(__/ /_(/_|\_|_(/_/_/_(/__ BY CHEVEROLET         mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Clocks anyone?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 14:20:20 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.224304.14958@i88.isc.com> dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
>In article <1992Aug12.170242.17824@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>>In article <h645788@pro-haven.cts.com> shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
>>>I noticed today that the factory clock in my truck started working again, for
>>>the thirty millionth time...  It seems that every Chevy truck factory clock
>>>will run for about the first 25K miles, then it'll quit for several months,
>>>and then work for a few weeks, then quit, etc etc ad infinitum.  
>>>
>>
>>Take the clock to a competent watch/clock repair shop and have it cleaned and
>>oiled. (Don't do it yourself - the oils they use are far better refined than
>>what you can buy at the hardware store, so to avoid future gumming up.)
>
>	I was under the impession that it was not a "gumming" problem,
>but an electrical contact.  The old mechanical (pre-quartz) units use
>an electrically wound spring to run the clock...when the spring unwinds

That's the other most common failure mode for these things, followed by 
actual breakage of the mechanicals or the solenoid. If you tap it and hear
it rewind & start, that's probably the problem. If you tap it and it just
starts ticking (at least as common), it's probably gummed up. 
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Date: 16 Aug 92 01:42:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1992Aug14.221438.6155@i88.isc.com> dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
>In article <1992Aug14.160944.22116@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>>In article <16evibINN736@smli.Eng.Sun.COM> lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
>>>In article <1992Aug13.212200.2819@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>>>>In article <16eep0INN66i@smli.Eng.Sun.COM> lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
>>>>>>>>>I'm starting a new survey.
>>>>> (stuff deleted)

>>>>Even easier is the same car with an inline 6. I've owned a '55 Chevy w/ a
>>>
>>>I think you got me on that one.  With a 6 and no heater I bet you could
>>>stand on the ground beside the engine on the right side of the engine
>>>compartment if you needed to. 
>>>
>>Hmm. An interesting thought. I'll have to try that when I get home today :-)
>>
>>BTW the heater is a minimal problem under the hood with only 2 hoses
>>under the hood. everything else is under the dash. The (rare) original
>>equipment air conditioners - that's another story. Fortunately, I don't have
>>one on my car.
>
>	Where is the heat come out on your car?  It was under
>the driver's seat on my '57 Pontiac, blew heat at both the
>front and rear.  Best damn heater I've ever seen in a car...

The outlet duct is at the top of transmission tunnel, much like newer cars
without a/c.

That Pontiac heater sounds pretty slick!
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.boats
From: quillen@orion (John Quillen)
Subject: Cleaning/protecting (canvas) Convertible tops
Keywords: convertible top canvas
Organization: Fox Chase Cancer Center
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:55:48 GMT

Hello,

I have a white convertible top on my car that is only a year old and has
already gotten marks (dirt, etc) which are going to be hard to get out
(carwash soap and a stiff brush isn't getting it).

I'm interested in finding a good cleaner and a good protectant that
will make the top stay clean and cleanup easier.

I tried something called Koala.  I wasn't impressed with the cleaner,
but I liked the protectant (though it appears it only lasted about 6 months).
I'd like to find something better.

Someone once suggested lacquer thinner to get rid of hard to remove marks,
but I'm reluctant to try something so harsh.  I once used (diluted) ammonia
to clean a white vinyl car seat and within weeks it dissolved the threads
of the seat:-(

I hope boat people don't mind the cross-post, but a while ago a friend
suggested that since a lot of boats have canvas tops that there might
be a marine product that would be better than those available for cars.
(rec.autos people please don't digress to talk about convertibles in
general - or if you must, please eliminate the cross-post, thanks)

I would prefer email responses and I will gladly summarize.  If I don't
get any responses/interest from rec.boats I won't post a summary there.

Thanks,

John
-- 
------------
John Quillen  JW_Quillen@fccc.edu  Phone: (215) 728-3660  FAX: (215) 728-2513
Research Computing Services / The Fox Chase Cancer Center / Phila. PA, USA
        "The world is full of apathy ... but who cares?"  R. Murphy
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota Camry Timing Belt
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:06:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Aug20.101237.27988@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>
>Just out of curiousity, why does anybody use timing belts at all?  It seems
>to me that chains & gears are so much more dependable.  I've never heard
>of a timing chain going (on SAABs, anyway, no experience with others), and
>gears are noisy but even better.
>
>Is it a cost thing, a 'planned obsolesence' thing, or just stupidity?
>
 Mostly due to the migration to overhead cams I expect; a 2' timing chain is
one thing, but a 4' chain (there and back) would be awfully sloppy and hard
to control. Plus belts are a lot cheaper to make (though not necessarily to
-buy- for the poor sap who needs one). When the dealers are selling to folks 
who trade in their cars every 2 years, the manufacturers don't care much about
what happens after the warranty expires. Hey, enough people have bad luck with
used cars, maybe they'll start buying new again, the way God and Madison
Avenue intended. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tire speed ratings ?
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 08:04:33 -0500

 JS> |> Anybody want to guess what that "89V" stands for?
 JS> 
 JS> Expiration date?  ;-)

The "expiration date" is implicit in the last (3-digit) group of the DOT label.
This is coded WWY, where WW = week of year and Y = last digit of year number,
e.g., 222 = 22nd week in 1992 (or is it 1982?). This is the date when the tire
was produced.



From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP