HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: I now own a VW. How do I drive it?????
Date: 18 Nov 92 02:16:12 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

> 
> 	Question 1:
>            How high do I go on the RPM's.  For the most part
> I'm an aggressive responsible driver.  Do high RPM's wear VW's
> out? 

      High rpms don't seem to make much of a diiference. I run my GTi to
redline bout 5 times a day or more and haven't had engine trouble yet. The
engines seem to be pretty solid. I have however blown up a tranny.

  note: unless you have modified your car, there is little reason to goto
redline especially in the higher gears. The cars quickly run out of steam
above 6200.
> 
>         Question 2:
> 	   How do I drive the corners.  Now that the back end
> always stays put.

        It doesn't really stay put. VWs are famous for lift throttle over
steer. At high speeds if you back off suddenly be ready. In general, the
lift throttle oversteer is controlable and helpful. Note: conering differs
from the classic RWD concept of breaking only in a straight line and then
accelerating through apex


  It seems like the front end will slide 
> instead.  How am I doing.  What about gas through the corner?
       The concept is to trail break into the corner loading the front
wheels towards apex. Once you begin unwinding the wheel( after apex), begin
adding power progressively until the tires are pointing straight . Don't
floor it especially at full G's until the tires are somewht straight. The
cars are fairly neutral up to a point. Then, they understeer unless you
drop throttle. The cars have alot of grip especially at low speeds. At
highway speed, mine feels a little twitchy unless it's under power or
braking. Thats why I drive like a mad man, it makes the car feel better.

          The car does understeer so avoid curbs. I've read if you get into
a understeer situation and back off yielding oversteer  you should cadance
accelerate (pump the gas pedal). It may not be the fasted or smoothest way
around a corner but it's suppose to work!? ( never tried it)

> And if the car can not spin out rear first what does it do 
> and how do I avoid it.  If you know of a good driving school
> somewhere around Boston or New England I would love to hear 
> it.
            
       I think skip barber is in limerock conn?

Good luck and if you find more about the driving school let me know

 

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu

 owner of a broken 1990 GTi 8v
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jpau@oracle.com (Jeffrey Pau)
Subject: Castrol Syntax
Organization: Oracle Corp
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 21:47:12 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

How often should I change oil if Syntax is used?
Suggestions are appriciated!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: roden@phonon.eng.ohio-state.edu (Christoph A Roden)
Subject: funny electrical connection??
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept of Electrical Engineering
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:48:45 GMT

I have a question

I have a 1981 VW scirocco ( electronic ignition, o2 sensor)
The other day I was doing some work with the fuse panel.  I took all 5
of the square wiring harness out of the back of the fuse panel.  When
I was done, I reconnected everything, plugged the wiring harnesses
back into the fuse box and remounted the fuse box.  The next day when
I started the car the engine was vibrating funny.  While driving, the
engine conntinued to vibrate funny, and the car had no power.  I would
rev it up but I just could not get any power out of it.  My car's idle
speed was fine and didn't fluctuate.

My car was now warmed up (driving for 10-15min) and still acting the same.
Finally I drove it hard from a stop light and while in the middle of
'trying'  to accelarate hard, my car just started acting normal.  Just
as if a switch had been turned.  My car has been driving fine ever
since.  I was just curious if anyone had any guesses as to what might
have been wrong.  

I imagine that one of the wires into the back of the fuse box was not
making proper contact.  I have looked at a schematic and tried to
quess at a few, but none of them make sense.  I was curious if anyone
would know which connections would allow the engine to run semi O.K.
put with no power and extra vibration.

I would like to try to find out what caused it so i can check the
connection and will know what to do if it happens again.

Thanks for the help.

Chris
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomevans@ralvmm.vnet.ibm.com (tomevans@ralvmm.vnet.ibm.com)
Subject: OXS light
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 14:59:18 GMT
Organization: TCP/IP Development
Keywords: OXS sensor

My OXS light has come on to remind me to have my 87 Golf serviced, does anyone	
know how to reset it?
Thanks...
-- 
Tom Evans  TCP/IP Development 
TOMEVANS@RALVMM.VNET.IBM.COM; (919) 254-4097
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange)
Subject: Re: Help! Put oil in a Bug, and it disappears!
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:44:56 GMT

garrett@Ingres.COM (WE'RE ONLY HERE BECAUSE WE'RE NOT ALL HERE) writes:

>In article <20NOV199213163645@cc.utah.edu>, mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK)                       writes... 
>>I had that happen to me a couple of years ago in '71 Super Beetle.  One sure 
>>way to tell if the oil is going into the clutch housing is if the clutch is 
>>slipping at high rpm's going up a hill.
>> Michael Beck                   
***How dare you tease us like this, Michael.  For a few seconds I was thinking, wow, it makes sense.  Then I, too, saw the absurdity of your assertation.  HIGH RPM!  You taunting bastard.  Up a hill!  Prankster!  Don't you realize what your joking around can do to those of us who own Bugs with even less power?  My 40 HP '63 cried when she saw that article.  Happy Driving to all sincere air=cooled types.
-- 
Josh LaGrange                  *                    
Email: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu*                                               Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
My views may not represent the *
views of the Union College     * 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Info on Bus Campers - Buying Used
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 21:59:27 GMT

In article <1ere9oINNed4@uwm.edu> danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Gary Soiney) writes:
>I wonder...if the diesel vanagons used diesel rabbit motors, wouldent an early
>(a1) gti engine work, and are 16v motors also a possible swap?
>

I can think of a couple of potential problems with swapping a gas engine
for a diesel:

	1.  The diesel engine is canted over on its side quite a bit in order
	to fit.  Once you add the manifolds for the gas engine you may find
	it to be quite a squeeze, or that it may not fit at all.  Have fun
	with trying to fit in the fuel distributer and air ducting, not to
	mention customizing the exhaust manifold.

	2.  The gti and 16v engines are designed to put out a lot of horsepower
	at high rpm's for a fairly light load.  The Vanagon requires a lot
	of torque at low rpm (you lug the engine constantly).  This is going
	to destroy a high-performance, high-compression gas engine real quickly
	with pinging, even with a knock sensor, and the performance is going
	to be lousy because the knock sensor will continually attempt to
	retard the ignition timing.  The diesel, on the other hand, is ideal 
	for lugging forever.

	- Dan		eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: fyl@ssc.com (Phil Hughes)
Subject: Re: 46mm nut---How to remove?
Organization: SSC, Inc.,  Seattle, WA
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 23:07:16 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

colemant@yvax.byu.edu wrote:
: Please help me find the tool/ wrench to remove the rear axle nut from
: my 71 bus.  The size is 46mm and the only offers I have are for:
: 
: $107 crescent wrence with 2.5" max
: $30  socket and adaptor from sears
: 
: I have visions of making a tool to fit stuggly with some arm sticking out
: to hit with a hammer.  Custom making it may cost more than buying it.

Years ago I bought a 1-something inch socket (from Sears) that I used.  It
was more like $10 but it probably is $30 today.  Two other solutions are
in order.  First is one as you suggest.  I have seen a flat piece of metal
with a hex hole in it and a tab.  Yes, you hit it with a hammer.  BowWow
or another VW-ish place might have it.

Final solution is the one suggested in John Muir's book.  Get a cold
chisel and sledge hammer and turn the nut by putting the cold chisel on an
edge had hitting.  Worst case is that you can only take it off once and
then must replace it.  In practice you can usually do it 2 or 3 times and
the cost of the nut is less than the $107 cresent wrench.

-- 
Phil Hughes, SSC, Inc. P.O. Box 55549, Seattle, WA 98155  (206)FOR-UNIX
>>> Publishers of pocket references for UNIX, C, VI, Emacs, Ksh, MS-DOS, ... <<<
     ...!ssc!fyl or fyl@ssc.com            (206)527-3385
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Urgent! Engine rpm goes up to 5000! HELP!
Date: 15 Nov 1992 21:50:21 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K) says:

>In article <1e6cb5INNp33@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>his should be different than yours, as his hasn't a computer control
>>unit..but this isn't to dispute anything else here!
>>
>>DREW
>
>oooops.  What VWs do have computers in them?   

well..could be wrong, but i think that it is 89 and newer, but
maybe 90, unless you have done modifications.

>
>I heard Chrysler has this "doo-dad" that a consumer can buy.  The
>"doo-dad" is for those situations where the owner has difficulty
>reproducing a problem for the mechanic.  What you do is drive around
>with the "doo-dad" and push a button when the problem occurs.  The
>"doo-dad" then records everything that was happening in a window of
>time surrounding the button press.  Presumably this provides enough
>info for the mechanic to fix the problem.
>
>This sounds neat, do any of you think other manufacturers (including
>VW) will have something like this?
>
>Rich
>

DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:24:14 GMT

In article <By6K5K.Fzn@news.cso.uiuc.edu> mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!) writes:
>The funny thing is that the governors on the 3-series serve no function other
>than ordering the line.  If the 3-series didn't have a governor, its top speed
>would be higher than the 525i's, and wouldn't that be embarassing to the 5-
>series owner who paid way more for his car and got beaten by a 325i?

>Struck me as a little silly.....

i think the 525i sold in the us is also artificially limited in its
top speed.  and i don't think that people who buy the 525i buy them
for their all-out performance.  there are lots of faster alternatives,
including, as you say, the 325i.  for the purpose of all-out speed
there is the m5, soon to be cursed with servotronic steering,
according to another poster.

i drove a 525i, a saab 9000 turbo and an alfa 164 a while back.  the 525i
was the tamest, but turned out to be the car that i liked best.  all-out
speed isn't everything.


eliot
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-
Date: 20 Nov 1992 02:21:20 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot) says:

>In article <1eh23tINNgcq@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>>I hear it is due out maybe next April-6 cyl engine which is a
>>>barn burner-4 wheel discs-4 wheel ABS, traction control, moonroof,
>>>loaded with everything-leather etc.--will only cost around 18K.
>
>>no traction control, that i'v heard of..and i do not k now about any
>>of the rest for sure.
>
>whaddya mean no traction control?  all vr6 powered vws will have abs
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~gee..can you read or what??..does my
answer not SPECIFICALLY say "that i'v(sic) heard of.."...that is what
i mean "no traction control"...geez..buy some specs!
DREW

>*and* traction control.  it will also be made in mexico, with engines
>shipped from germany.  they will keep it under $20K though and for
>proof look at the passat vr6.. just slightly over 20.
>
>>>Haven't heard any specs-0-60, skidpad, slalom, top speed, braking
>>>60-0 and 80-0, and stuff like that.
>
>jetta vr6, manufacturer's figures: 0-62 7.8 secs, max: 140 mph.
ok...assuming these are true.(i do not)..but for the sake of my
question..how come VW willnot make a car run over 140??..is it 
electrically limited??..and why the hell do they do that anyhow!?!
just wondering..the SLC published top speeds i've seen are 140..
the G60's was too..now..am i wrong in that the VR6 has an extra..oh..
bunch of horses??..why does nothing go faster than this?(don't feed
me any shit about not being able to do it on US roads anyway.i want
to know WHY!!)
DREW
>C&D managed to exceed VWs claims for the Corrado VR6, so this may be
>somewhat conservative.
>
>some comments from CAR:
>
>"for most, the car will be a Q car with rather too much of the Q
>factor.  that said, the vr6 vento is no turkey. it actually has better
>handling balance and feel than a golf vr6."
>
>eliot
>
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Fox lower timing belt cover
Date: 17 Nov 92 22:55:43 GMT
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, bobp@apollo.HP.COM (Bob Plencner) says:

>  I just got a call from a friend who's water pump
>died on his '87 FOX, and decided that replacing the
>timing belt might be a fitting way to finish up a day 
>under the hood.  He dove into both jobs without a 
>manual, and now seems to be having trouble getting the
>lower cover off of the timing belt.  I'd think this would
>be a pretty straight forward task, but he doesn't think
>so.  He's already got the main pulley off of the crank
>(the toughest part if I remember correctly).
>
>  I don't have any manuals handy right now, and it's
>been a while since I did my '84 GTI's belt.  Would
>anyone offer a few lines of wisdom on this subject.
>I guess he's got the water pump done.  I've already 
>given him a tongue lashing for not consulting a good shop
>manual before starting.
>
>Thanks,
>Bob
>
>
>
when i did myne..i too had some trouble finding all the bolts, as the
pictures can be kinda confuzing(chiltons and haynes..both suck, once
again.i'm sure if i had a bently, i'd've had it made in the shade..)
onward..what i finally ended up doing was talking off ALL the pulleys..
h2o..crank, okk..not all..i left on some of them..i'm not sure about the
PS pump..at any rate..there is (if i remember right)four bolts just on the
bottom half..3(two bolts..one nut on the valve cover...but i'm not sure it
had to come off..can't remember...and the allen plug)..the bottom has
one right were it joins the top, another on the same side, and one in a
goof y corner in the back..and i think maybe one more, but cannot recall
just where..just pry a little on the cover, after you have taken out the
ones you can find, and see where it appears to be hanging..then look for
a bolt there..this is how i finally found the blasted one in the back!
good luck..hope i helped...(i doubt it..but maybe!)
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Gary Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Older Vdubs (Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 19 Nov 1992 19:39:05 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4

 I have been in two Bad crashes with betles, and both times I have stepped out
 of the car unhurt.  The first is when a drunk woman passed me on the left
 when I was turning left.  She tore the front wheel and fender off the car.
 The second beetle to be totaled came about when a woman pulled out of a 
 mall parking lot and never saw me.  I had swerved across the oncoming lane and into the shoulder to avoid her, but she still hit me hard enough to bend
 my body in half.  Pan was ok, though.  Now I drive a bus and everyone sees me

From: wtjones@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Bill Jones)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:09:55 GMT
Subject: Re: Thermostatic Control Cable - '70 Bug
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

Actually I think I stated that the car passed emmission standards. However,
because of a control cable, smog device being disconnected or missing,
the operator is required to note it and save his butt and license.

I already have the cable to install.  The kid's father popped for the
price!! So all we are going to do is install it and return to the
referee.

I think its pretty bogus all around.  

I also heard something about a 'dynamic' type of smog check that may
cost around $200 to get a car smogged???
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Subject: Bug prices?
Summary: A few questions about bugs!
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 01:47:04 GMT
Keywords: vw beetle purchase

I'm sure somebody out there can help me with this....

Some time in the next few months (i.e. if I ever have cash again) I'm thinking
about buying a Beetle.  I would prefer one 1964 or earlier (emissions you know)
but I can really make do with any year.  Now before I get a million emails of
"Buy mine!  Buy mine!" I should make myself clear.  I'd just like to know if
there are any particularly good/bad years, obscure problems to look out for,
and especially, how much should I expect to pay?

Cosmetics aren't very important to me; what I need is a structurally sound Bug
that runs well or needs relatively minor drivetrain/suspension work.  Any gues-
ses how much I should expect to pay?  Any good Bug dealers?

Thanks in advance!
-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)
Subject: in the magazines
Date: 16 Nov 92 17:00:13 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Summary:  '92 Bug, SP-2


Just in case folks haven't seen them, there are a couple of interesting
articles in the VW magazines this month.

Dune Buggies & Hot VWs has a spread on a '92 Beetle that somebody
bought in Guadalajara and was shipping to Japan via L.A. They observed
that the build quality of Puebla Bugs isn't as good as Wolfsburg Bugs
were, but you can't beat that new car smell! The car is a weird mixture
of archaic and up-to-date: it has electronic ignition and a catalytic
converter, but also a generator and a swing axle rear end.

In VW Trends are some pictures of one of my favorites, an SP-2. It's
one of 2 in the U.S., owned by a man in Salt Lake City who got it from
a soldier who bought it in Managua. The car started as some sketches
designers at VW do Brasil did when they found themselves with nothing
to do during a model changeover. VW brass liked the results, and they
eventually built about 10000 of them. The car is a 2 seater built on a
Type 3 chassis - but, thanks to lousy Brazilian gas, even a 1700cc engine
and 041 heads didn't produce much performance. If you root through
old issues of Road & Track you'll find driving impressions of one (1972?),
where they also mentioned that although VW do Brasil had considered
exporting them, they would (even then) run afoul of vehicle laws in
the U.S. - their headlights and bumpers were far too low.

A shame...

...laura
From: rslau@usc.edu (Robert Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: speedometer [was Re: ECU woes]
Date: 15 Nov 92 08:54:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: tarazed.RSLAU.92Nov15165410
Organization: University of Southern California, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: tarazed.usc.edu
In-reply-to: pzl@remulak.unx.dec.com's message of Thu, 5 Nov 1992 22:14:33 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.221433.24120@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> pzl@remulak.unx.dec.com (Pete Lega) writes:

	   Another unsolved recurring problem is a spedometer
	   that shakes through 30 Mph. The cable gets replaced,
	   and then its fine for 3 months, then the problem
	   recurs.. any hints?

It's probably the bearing inside the speedometer.  Not sure if it can
be replaced separately.  Mine started acting up about 2 months ago,
haven't had time to look into it though.  90 Passat.

-- 
Robert Lau - Systems Programmer, Unix Systems     213-740-2866
--  University Computing Services                 Internet: rslau@usc.edu
--  University of Southern California             Bitnet:   rslau@uscvm
--  1020 W Jefferson, LA, CA  USA, 90089-0251     UUCP:     ...!uunet!usc!rslau
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cs911390@ariel.yorku.ca (MARCO S MARINI)
Subject: For Sale: 1990 VW Corrado
Originator: cs911390@g08.ariel.yorku.ca
Keywords: For Sale: 1990 VW Corrado
Organization: York University, Toronto, Canada
Distribution: york
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:56:52 GMT


For Sale: 1990 VW CORRADO, black, black leather int., heated seats, ABS,
          BBS RF rims, new tires, Sony pull out, 9 speakers (I added two
          Pioneer 6x9's), Clifford alarm with remote door locks, 72,500kms,
          extended warranty. Hate to part with but MUST SELL! Car is in
          mint condition. Asking $16,900.
          If interested reply by e-mail or call (416)660-3850 evenings.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:24:52 GMT

In article <1eh23tINNgcq@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>I hear it is due out maybe next April-6 cyl engine which is a
>>barn burner-4 wheel discs-4 wheel ABS, traction control, moonroof,
>>loaded with everything-leather etc.--will only cost around 18K.

>no traction control, that i'v heard of..and i do not k now about any
>of the rest for sure.

whaddya mean no traction control?  all vr6 powered vws will have abs
*and* traction control.  it will also be made in mexico, with engines
shipped from germany.  they will keep it under $20K though and for
proof look at the passat vr6.. just slightly over 20.

>>Haven't heard any specs-0-60, skidpad, slalom, top speed, braking
>>60-0 and 80-0, and stuff like that.

jetta vr6, manufacturer's figures: 0-62 7.8 secs, max: 140 mph.

C&D managed to exceed VWs claims for the Corrado VR6, so this may be
somewhat conservative.

some comments from CAR:

"for most, the car will be a Q car with rather too much of the Q
factor.  that said, the vr6 vento is no turkey. it actually has better
handling balance and feel than a golf vr6."

eliot