HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: about cantilever brakes
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:38:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


	I've noticed in the catalogs that when you order a canti brake set,
they want to know whether it's for  the front or the rear.  What's the 
difference?  Someone please tell me, because I can get a rear DX canti for
free, but I only need a front one.  Can I use a rear brake as a front brake?
Do I need to modify it at all?  Please help!  Thanks.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!           			   "Why am I so late?  It took me 
					    25 minutes to decide which bike
					    to ride!"--me. 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
--
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: quixote@cix.compulink.co.uk (Aurelio Barranco)
Subject: Re: Wheel Wonderings
Reply-To: quixote@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 13:13:00 +0000


jobst_brandt writes .....

> Yes, in tension, but the spokes are not being used as tension
> elements.  They are prestressed and are being used as compression
> elements so their carrying limit is when they go slack and can no
> longer perform any structural function.  WHen the bottom spokes
> become slack, the rim has no contact with the hub except by the
> relatively small lateral bending stiffness.  If you don't believe
> that this strength is small you need only to take a loosely spoked
> wheel , hold it like a car steering wheel while pressing its axle
> into the floor.
> 

OK, well I don't have such a wheel around so you'll have to tell me
what happens.
From what you say, when the load exceeds the preset tension of the
spokes the rim will begin to buckle. It'll bend in and become flat
with the floor. What happens as you continue to increase the force
into the floor.
You are probably right about my still thinking in terms of tension, I
figure it is the use of the word compression that I find odd. As far
as I can tell what you are saying is that it is the compression of
the tensioned bottome spoke which throws the equilibrium of spoke
tension out sufficiently to allow the top spoke to support the load
without any change in it's tension.
I guess engineering is like most 'sciences' in that it borrows from
the English language all sorts of words then makes their use
sufficiently different that when discussed with a layman,
misunderstandings and inexactitudes will occur. Pharmacology is no
different with words like efficacy and potency have quite precise
meanings :)

> unbraced length of the column under compression.  The rim has no
> bracing when several spokes become slack so that without even a side
> load, the rim tends to bow to the side.

Is this a random property or one brought about by the non uniform
properties of the rim material.

!"*!)"(*!   "I'm sure this looked good when I first did it ? "
????|?|?|   Aikido .. Pharmaceuticals .. and  Cycling.
Aurelio 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner)
Subject: Re: Tri-bar safety
Organization: Bellcore
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 16:14:39 GMT

I have a set of clip-on bars, used for triathlons.  I have not experienced
any safety problems with them, mainly due to a knowledge of when to use
them and when to stay off them.  I never use them when drafting someone
(why bother?) or in a pack.  I don't use them on sharp turns (right angle
type), unless I know that there are no cars coming and I know the speed
at which I can take the turn.  I can ride on the bars on rollers, so I
don't have any "twitchy" problems.  I know many triathletes who have
a brake lever mounted for use in the aero position, and also one on the
drops (or equivalent position).  Many have the shifters mounted for use in
the aero position.  A good rule of thumb is to avoid the aero position if
you think you may need to brake suddenly.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: garyb@gcm.com (Gary Blumenstein)
Subject: Dura Ace or 600?
Organization: Greenwich Capital Markets, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:17:12 GMT

Well I'm trying to decice which gruppo to get for my new Marinoni
frame and it's going to be either Shimano Dura Ace or 600 (with STI).

My question:

Is Dura Ace really worth the extra cost?  Several of my racing pals
swear by 600 saying that it's much more cost effective.  Any thoughts?

- Gary
-- 
Gary Blumenstein                          |   garyb@gcm.com        Internet
Unix Systems Administrator                |   uunet!gcm!garyb      UUCP
Greenwich Capital Markets                 |  +1(203) 625-7937      Voice 
600 Steamboat Road, Greenwich, CT  06830  |  +1(203) 629-9136      FAX
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 17:31:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Spoke Tension by hand
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

James Gourgoutis writes:

> Jobst may have something to add to this, but when I built my first
> wheel using the instructions in _Effective_Cycling_, it mentioned
> that "lacing" the spokes in this manner (interweaving them as
> opposed to not) creates a stronger wheel.  Mr. Forester even went
> so far as to discuss tying the spokes at this point, either with
> some strong thread and epoxy, or using solder, if I recall
> correctly.

Interleaving spokes has nothing to do with strengthening the wheel
but is done to give added resistance to spoke loosening.  Under
shock loads such as the wheel encounters at speed over rough
pavement like cobble stones, spokes momentarily become slack at
times.  The interleaving allows an adjacent tight spoke to pull on
the slack spoke to keep it from becoming entirely loose and allowing
the nipple to unscrew.

Tying and soldering does nothing for the strength of the wheel.  It
was originally used to keep broken spokes in high wheeled bicycles
from coming out and causing an endover crash.  This became possible
when Starley invented crossed spoking.  It was esoteric and it hung
on as a mysterious wheel strengthener.  You will notice that it is
not found anywhere among those riders who would most profit from it
were there any value in it.  I went to great lengths to measure and
analyze this non existing effect.

Rich Whalen writes:

> The crossing on the inside by the outside spokes is called
> "lacing".  From what I've read is helps support the other spokes.
> It probably serves to transfer sideways load from one spoke to
> another and therefore distributing it better over the entire
> wheel.  If you look at a "standard" 3-cross wheel you'll see that
> the two spokes that are laced at the outer most crossing are
> joined to the rim quite some distance from each other.

I suggest reading "the Bicycle Wheel" where these things are
analyzed in detail and not relegated to repetition of bicycle lore.
On inspection you will find that interleaved spokes reach the rim in
every second hole.  Interleaving the inner spoke crossings is both
difficult and damaging to spokes although it is done occasionally.
Interleaving also has the benefit of giving more rear derailleur
clearance.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Monday, 25 Jan 1993 10:00:56 PST
From: <TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Uncontrollable Oscillation!

I have also experienced uncontrollable oscillation on a steep descent and braki
ng.  I've managed to gain control by coasting and braking slightly with both
the front and rear brakes.  Does anyone know what causes oscillation, is it the
forks not being aligned? Poor braking techniques? Headset?

                                                          -tom
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: emumford@nyx.cs.du.edu (Eric Mumford)
Subject: Adding an additional seat?
Keywords: n
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 16:46:29 GMT

It is not seldom that the occasion arises where I have a bike, I'm with a 
friend, and we need to get somewhere.  And there's only one bike: mine.  Now,
I was wondering if it would be possible to mount a collapsable secondary 
seat support mechanism on my bike.  I have a Univega Range Rover 10 mountain
bike currently with a Vetta Gel saddle.  

I want the mechanism that holds the second seat (which would be located behind 
the current saddle) to be either collapsable or removalbe simply because riding
around with another seat behind you with nobody on it would look rather daft.

And, finally, if there is no such product on the market, would I be able
to construct one?  Of course, I would figure out the problem of where the
guest rider would put their feet and everything after I found that this is
at all possible.  Any ideas, recommendations, or recipies are welcome.
Thanks!

(Just kidding about the recipies.  I don't cook much, I just eat.)

---							   The Guess Who (1972)
No time for a summer friend, no time for the love you send.        ____________
Seasons change and so did I- You need not wonder why,	           Eric Mumford
You need not wonder why- there's no time left for you.	 emumford@nyx.cs.du.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: Pulstar hubs?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 03:29:05 GMT

In article <1993Jan23.062223.2323@chiton.ucsd.edu> zeke@chiton.ucsd.edu (Rob Scott) writes:

>Excuse me, but could you justify this sweeping generalization, please?

Strange, you quote the part in front of the justification and then ask for
justification. But if you only look a bit further:

>>But properly built wheels on mountain bikes rarely have spoke failures.
>>If you are looking for a lighter wheel you could get lighter hubs. If you
>>are looking for stronger hubs the Pulsar might be for you. But for a mountain
>>bike? I doubt it.
>>
>>Pulsar hubs look like a good deal on road bikes and on unsuspended mountain
>>bike used by people that like to use high pressure tires.
>
>Again, please justify your statements.

Apparently you have trouble with english as a primary language so there isn't
any use with further justification since you won't understand that either.

>I'm planning on purchasing a set of Rock Shox Mag 21s in the next month
>or two.  Along with that will be a Pulstar front 32 spoke hub with 15 gauge
>spokes.

Oh, I guess that's why you want justifications con.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pcbk1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (bryan.s.katz)
Subject: Cateye Mity fix
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 09:07:25 GMT
Keywords: screen blanks out

  I've had my Mity for about 1.5 years.  For the past year or so, the
  screen would fade occasionally.  It was particularly bad on cold days.  So 
  I just bought a new battery, but the fade problem didn't go away.  Finally
  figured out to bend the battery holding clip and and extend the spring 
  on the back cover that holds in the battery - to make sure that it was 
  held in very tightly.  IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  I wonder if this will fix the problem I have of the screen blanking out 
  whenever it rains.   I've been using a baggy.   

  Anyway, at least I have it working in the cold.....

  b
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: T0FG000 <T0FG@UNB.CA>
Subject: WD-40 a chain lubricant?
Organization: The University of New Brunswick
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 00:26:13 GMT


Terry Thiel said:
 >I am wondering what the rest of you do to lube your chain?  Any
>other silly people applying this non-lubricant to their chain?  >Will.

You tried one silicone lubricant and consider yourself informed enough t
refer to people who don't use WD-40 as "silly".  Get a life.

I respond:

A thousand pardons for possibly insinuating that your lubricant of
choice is silly!  The non-lubricant I was referring to was WD-40.

While I agree with one of your other points that WD-40 is a poor
lubricant, at $3 a can x 2 cans a year, its darn cheap! Applying it
frequently costs little.  In fact, I bought two cans two years ago, and
need a new can this year.
  Plus, WD-40 has other applications, such as ridding water from
cables, nuts, bolts and cracks and crevices on the bike.
  Also, the conditions under which I ride have changed - at one time it
was under frequently damp or raining conditions.  WD-40 was alluded to
have water-repelling properties when I first looked
 for a lubricant, unawares it really wasn't a lubricant.

As for my experience with that one particular silicone based lubricant,
I was unaware what could possibly cause the build up of dirt that
occured when I used it.  I (perhaps mistakenly) thought that this was
some trick that commercial chain-cleaner/lubricant suppliers would pull
to get users to use more of their product than necessary.  I read a
post here that silicone was to blame, have relieved my opinion on
commercial lubes, and was asking you what you preferred using.

Others using formulated lubricants may have shiny clean chains, whereas
my WD-40ed chains aren't, but my chains certainly never had the amount o
f dirt on them that the silicone stuff put there.

Will.


---------------------------------------- William Burrow
Internet:  t0fg@unb.ca                      |
           will@p1.f14.n255.z1.fidonet.org  | I'm not UNB, thats
Fidonet:  1:255/14.1                        | someone else...
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: spinaa@rpi.edu (Matt Garretson)
Subject: Re: LX DX XT XTR Confusion
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 02:30:01 GMT

In article <C1An3G.2zD@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> flip@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Phillip D. Russell) writes:
>I pissed that I can't find the cheap Exage components anymore. I made
>the mistake of forking out the money for XT hubs just to have a
>different part of the hub fail each winter. The original Exage hubs
>are still in perfect condition and working great after fours years
>of all-weather commuting.

In the February issue of Bicycle Guide, they have their top $700 suspension
mountain bikes listed, and many of them have the Exage group. Maybe these
bikes are below your range, but the groups still seem to exist.

BTW, for a commuter bike, would it be better to go with cheaper exage,
with the idea that replacements will cheap, or to go with pricier LX or
DX with the hopes that they will last longer?
From: jmyers@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM (Jonathan E Myers)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: ???Pedros???
Date: 25 Jan 93 19:21:02 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1993Jan23.044951.60930@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> sjm3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SALEM JON MAZZAWY) writes:
>Let me just say:
>    Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil+food coloring=Pedros Syn lube
>This has been tested.   The Mobil brand is MUCH cheaper.
>                                Salem

Could you provide a bit more detail.  Who was this tested by?
What viscosity of Mobil 1?  Do you use Mobil 1 or Pedros?
I have been happy with Pedros, but would not mind saving some
money.

		Thanks,
			Jon Myers
From: v206gb6c@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (My stuffed shark is eating my toenail clippings)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Suspension Questions
Date: 22 Jan 93 17:29:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <102510017@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, richd@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Rich Davis) writes...
> 
>  I recently purchased a Specialized M2. I decided to hold off on 
>  suspension because of some questions I have. First off, is there
>  seems to be a couple of solutions for suspension that attempt to 
>  accomplish the same result; front-end, and handle bar.  I know a 
>  lot of people riding fork suspension, they all say the same things, 
>  ie; it alters the frame geometry, it adds weight, there's maintenance, 
>  etc....  But they are still sold on the forks.  Unfortunatley, no one
>  I know has ridden handle bar suspension.
> 
>  I'm curious to know if anyone has tried riding handle bar suspension,
>  and might be able to compare/contrast this with fork/frame solutions.

    There are 2 suspention stems that I know of:  the Allsop Frankenstem;
and the Girvin Flex-Stem.  As soon as I log off, I'm going to order a 
Frankenstem.  I had a Flex-Stem on my last mountian bike and I'm seriously
thinking about getting one for my touring bike. 

    The Flex-Stem pivots on a urethene bumper (elastomer, to the suspention
fork crowd).  You can chose from 3 densities of urethene (hard, medium, and 
soft).  It works well for city street and gravel road riding, but not so
well on single track.  It is great for "high-frequency, low-amplitude" bumps.
The main disadvantages are a low travel distance (can't do much for big
bumps), and the geometry of the handle bars changes slightly downward
during the shock absorbing pivot.  There are a couple of versions of the 
stem.  One is a cro-moly stem replacement ($55); and one is an aluminum 
stem replacement (@500 gr, $80).  I know they have a stem and bar combo
also, but I'm not sure its the Titanium bar and stem (Al?) combo listed in
the Bike Pro add I have here (which all prices listed are from) ($220).
A replacement bushing (bumper) kit is $20 and includes 4 bumpers.

    The Frankenstem is a different moster all together.  It employs a spring
suspended parallelagram that hold the handle bars at a constant pitch relative
to the rider (no rotational pivot).  It is supposed to have almost 3" of travel.
And deal well with both high-freq low-amp and low-freq high-amp bumps.  The
design also prevents twisting of the handle bars (tortional?).  There are both
cro-moly (@740 gr, $148) and aluminum (@600 gr, $190) models.  Apparently
Team Ritchey rides these on some of there bikes (if that kind of stuff impresses
you).

PauL M SchwartZ  (-Z-)  |  Follow men's eyes as they look to the skies
v206gb6c@ubvms.BitNet   |         the shifting shafts of shining 
pms@geog.buffalo.edu    |        weave the fabric of their dreams
pms@acsu.buffalo.edu    |                    - RUSH -
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp (Jeff McAffer)
Subject: Re: Spoke Tension by hand
Reply-To: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp
Organization: University of Tokyo / Object Technology International
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 03:35:14 GMT
X-Bytes: 505

In article <1jk4jlINN3ni@hpscit.sc.hp.com> tim@computer.bri.hp.com (Tim Phipps) writes:

 >I do it by ear.  I don't interweave the spokes so there is a small gap at
 >each of the three cross points.  If you do interweave them they don't ping well.

Huh?  I thought the idea of cross spoking is that the spokes touch.
Are you talking about radial spoking?  


--
ato de, |m        -- I have been told to send this but am on record as
                     not being responsible when the error is discovered
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: LX DX XT XTR Confusion
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 12:54:17 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.202728.13983@datamark.co.nz>, thomas@datamark.co.nz (Thomas Beagle) writes:
|> In article <1jjg2eINNpre@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ce011@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Scott Erdman) writes:
|> >
|> >According to my friend who is a mountain biking enthuiast:
|> >
|> >The components are ranked from lowest to hightest :
|> >
|> >DX, LX, XT, XTR
|> 
|> So, where does CX fit in all of this?

I think that CX is the hybrid-specific groupset (if my memory serves me
correctly).

Stu
From: D.F.White@lut.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Date: 21 Jan 93 15:02:39 GMT
Reply-To: D.F.White@lut.ac.uk (Dave White)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.

In article <1993Jan20.054527.17190@beaver.cs.washington.edu> pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:
>In article <1449@bridge2.NSD.3Com.COM> camerons@NAD.3Com.COM writes:
>>>serious techies will realize that no battery-powered lamp can
>>>...
>>>to the acetylene miner's lamp.
>
>Ah, clearly retro.  A friend of mine has a collection of acetylene
>bicycle headlights, most or all of them from the last part of the last
>century.
>
>Last I heard, he also had the world's 5th largest yo-yo collection (his
>claim, several thousand yo-yo's).
>
>		;-D on  ( The past of the bike )  Pardo

Acetylene bicycle lights were not made until well into this century, the majority date from the late 1920s to after the war, acetylene miners lights are still made today.
From: schwarz@nucleus.ps.uci.edu (Randy Schwarz)
Subject: Re: grease/lube
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Reply-To: schwarz@nucleus.ps.uci.edu (Randy Schwarz)
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:56:16 GMT

In article <1jm4qvINNj4c@matt.ksu.ksu.edu>, flakebit@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (skully the automaton.) writes:
|> Hello.  I need advice on what type of grease and oil to use in warm 
|> weather. 

I find the a molybdinum (sp?) grease works best for any aplication where
grease is required. eg hubs, bottom bracket, derailuer pullies, Manitou
suspension, etc. 
And on the chain Pedro's ATB synlube is the best choice for me.
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 01:53:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Pulstar hubs?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Adrian Le Hanne writes:

> I'm interested in experiences and opinions whether or not i should
> try these hubs instead of 'normal' hubs.  The front hub will be
> used with a Manitou suspension fork. Can i expect additional
> torsional stiffness by the wider flanges of these hubs?

The hubs have the advantage that a broken rear spoke can be replaced
with the sprockets in place.  On the other hand this may become more
necessary than with conventional hubs because the entire spoke load
must be carried by the weakest part of the spoke.  The only part of
the spoke where the grain structure is not in line and oriented is
the head because it is formed by smashing the end of the spoke like
a rivet.  Previously the head performed only a retaining function
while the elbow carried the load.  With straight spokes, I would
expect a greater susceptibility to heads popping off.

Besides, you won't find suitable spokes widely available but if you
aren't going on long tours, this is not a problem.  I think the hubs
are an interesting novelty with one advantage.  Don't worry about
torque, it is not a governing factor in spoke life, otherwise, the
large flange hub would be widely used.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp (Jeff McAffer)
Subject: adjusting AheadSets
Reply-To: jeff@is.s.u-tokyo.ac.jp
Organization: University of Tokyo / Object Technology International
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 09:43:24 GMT
Distribution: rec
X-Bytes: 866

Does anyone have info on how to properly adjust the pressure on the
bearing on an AheadSet head set?  The way I see it, you tighten the
cap down on the stem until you get the right force and then tighten
the stem bolts.  The question is how do you know when you have the
right level of pressure?  

As a bit of an aside, how do people out there feel about this design.
I like it in concept since its relatively minimal.  However, it seems
sort of limiting in terms of height adjustment (range of about 1 cm?).
The other thing is that if you have to turn you bars for some reason
(shipping, accident...) you have to readjust your headset bearings (or
at least check them).

What are your perceptions of its advantages?

--
ato de, |m        -- "Throughout my life I have sought peace and quiet"
                                                          - Ted Nuggent
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech