HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Canon EOS REBEL 'S' Kit for sale.
From: lenahagf@ucunix.san.uc.edu (George F. Lenahan)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 17:18:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Cincinnati

Three month old Canon REBEL 'S' KIT.  The package includes:
             - REBEL 'S' body.  Features include built in flash, four 
               preprogramed settings (action, close-up, portrait,
               landscape), aperture priority, shutter priority, two depth
               focusing, multiple exposure (up to 9), full manual as
               well as automatic operation.
             - 35-105mm Canon EOS lens manual or auto focus.
             - REBEL camera cover and wide strap.
Have all the boxes and the documentation.

lenahagf@ucunix.san.uc.edu
From: madson@unix.SRI.COM (Carl Madson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Scanner info for Don..
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:03:02 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, California


[to Don Smith, et al.] : I've been trying to ship my Microtek scanner descrip-
tion via 'normal channels', to Noah Vail. Can't seem to get it up to Seattle..
(I should just print it and mail it!?) I'll try one more option; I haven't
forgotten about your questions..

BTW, for anyone else who's curious, I have the Microtek 1850S slide scanner and
have just started playing with it. If you have questions, I'll try to answer
them and maybe post with general answers. Keep in mind that I'm in the middle
of moving, so I don't have access to everything right now..

[I get my own office in the new house, PLUS a room for shooting! Yow.]


		--Carl Madson, SRI International, Menlo Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ong@a.cs.okstate.edu (ONG ENG TENG)
Subject: Re: B&H: Please help!
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 01:45:06 GMT

From article <74042@netnews.upenn.edu>, by liang@saul.cis.upenn.edu (Chuck Liang):
>   You actually WANT one with the ZEN finish?!!!  Have you noticed that
> the Zen finish lenses are all a bit cheaper than the other lenses.  I
> have 2 sigma lenses with the Zen finish and I hate them.  It's nothing
> but a cheap, dull looking rubber-plastic that is not at all easy to
> hold.  In fact, the Zen finish really like to attract dust.  This
> "Zen" finish crap has got to rank right up there with the best
> Canon-Minolta yuppie advertizing slogans.  (nothing can beat the EOS
> Elan's ability to allow you to experience "oneness" however.  Even
> with Zen finish you can at best expect to experience
> one-and-a-quarter-ness.)   It's no big deal if you have it, just don't
> let anybody know what it's called.  If they sent you one without it,
> count it as a blessing.
> 
> Zen and art of lens maintenance NOT.

Hmm... well, I WOULD prefer ZEN finish (the MF lens I am returning is ZEN)
to my the other Sigma APO which has a cream-color very scratchable "paint".
The cream color lens on my F4s really make the camera look cheap, that is 
really an insult to a guy who bearly can afford it. 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Re: Contax T2 info
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 09:31:35 GMT

In <1992Apr13.143524.22903@osf.org> jrieden@osf.org (Jack Rieden) writes:


>I am considering buying a Contax T2 camera, based upon a few
>recommendations from friends. I looking for any info 
>concerning price, comments, mail order and so forth.
>Any info is appreciated.

At the Good Guys (A Contax dealer, too) we sell the Contax T2 for
$778. Impressive camera, titanium, ceramic, and sapphire glass and
all. Zeiss Sonnar T* f/2.8 lens. Superb. And a futre collectable. I
hear that Contax T cameras are going for $1500 (or so I hear).

We can order a gold ion plated T2 for $1998. (Yes, real gold, NOT
gold tone) And yes, someone actually ordered one of those cameras.

No, and I can't tell you what the commission was. (whew!)


-- 
#############################################################
# Scaramento Public Access UNIX     sactoh0.SAC.CA.US       #  
#  (916) 649-0161, 722-6516 & 722-5068    E-Mail & USENET   #
################## default .signature file ##################
From: eugene@elm.lle.rochester.edu (Eugene Kowaluk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: How to clean multi-coated filters
Date: 17 Apr 92 13:57:30 GMT
Organization: UofR Laboratory for Laser Energetics

Julian Vrieslander writes:
> Several months ago I asked one of the techs at Nikon's information center
> (800-NIKON-US is the number, I think) what the official recommended juice
> was for cleaning Nikon lenses and filters.  He told me to use pure methyl
> alcohol (methanol).  I tried it and found that it worked quite well,
> leaving less residue than Kodak cleaner or the ROR stuff.

I tried methanol on my Hoya HMC 67mm UV filter because we use it on our
very expensive AR-coated laser optics.  The methanol left a residue.  
I spoke to a HMC technician in NYC, and he recommended Hoya's "Multi-coated
Filter Cleaner" used in conjunction with the Luminex Ultrafine Cleaning Cloth.

This combination not only cleaned off the methanol residue, but also the
original residue incurred, ironically, while photographing Hoya's president
who was visiting here.

Locally, the cleaner sells for $3.95 and the Luminex for $5.95.


 
> But be careful, methanol is poison.  Use it in a well ventilated area, and
> keep it away from anyone who might be tempted to ingest it (children, pets,
> and depressed wives of unsuccessful presidential candidates).

Excellent suggestion, and don't forget to label the bottle appropriately.


eugene kowaluk
From: az1@ukc.ac.uk (A.Zafar)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Which meter reading to take?
Date: 7 Apr 92 01:26:12 GMT
Organization: Computing Lab, University of Kent at Canterbury, UK.


	I plan to take some portraits of some friends. I have a little
question regarding which exposure meter reading should I consider. 

1) The person is standing in the sun with the sun back lighting the model. I
take the spot meter reading of the face and put in a small amount of fill
flash.

2) Here instead of the meter reading off the face I take the reading of the
grey card held by the model. Assuming that the light falling on the grey card
is the same as that falling on the model.

	Now if the model is very fair, there will be atleast one stop
difference between the two reading. So which one should I use if I want the
perfect exposure. Thanks a lot in advance to all those who respond.
From: jop@wang.com (John Payne)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: View camera lens mounting?
Summary: Request for info re mounting of view camera lens.
Date: 14 Apr 92 22:22:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Wang Labs, Lowell MA, USA

Well, after some deliberation I went out and bought a 4*5 on the
weekend.  Toyo 45GB with a Schneider 150/5.6 APO.  I expected
that some level of proficiency would be required to commision the
beast but there was very little in the way of practical advice in
the instruction manual.  Anyway, to get to the point the lens came
in a suitable sized box with a packing spacer to stop it from being
thrown around too much.  The lens also has a small locator on the
mounting flange which I presumed was to keep the lens from
twisting on the lens board.  Having filed a suitable notch in the
lens board so that the lens fitted snugly and tightening the 
mounting bezel the lens was still quite loose.  Unfortunately I
didn't have a proper wrench but the bezel was obviously at the end
of it's available travel.  Is it normal to require the installation
of some form of shim or spacer?  Is the packing supposed to
provide this (the spacer is made of quite hard plastic but this does
seem rather imprecise for such a set up)? or have I simply got some
defect in the mounting?

BTW thanks to everyone who responded to my previous post about view
camera info.  If ramanand@uceng.uc.edu is still out there, my reply
to you bounced, mail me again and I will reply with the summary.

Thank you.
-- 

 
John S. Payne            | Opinions and views expressed herein are my own
Wang Laboratories Inc.   | and are in no way to be construed as those of
jop@wang.com             | Wang Laboratories Inc.
From: jimc@isc-br.ISC-BR.COM (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon EOS ELAN and lenses
Date: 7 Apr 92 00:34:36 GMT
Organization: ISC-Bunker Ramo, An Olivetti Company

In article <1992Apr2.081535.20091@colorado.edu> panos@tigger.Colorado.EDU (Panos Tsirigotis) writes:
>>Also, Cannon is stopping production of the non-USM lenses. 
>
>Would you please tell us how you found out that Canon is stopping 
>production of the non-USM lenses ? 
>In a recent brochure of the Elan, there are 15 EF lenses
>using the AFD (Arc Form Drive) motor, i.e. non-USM. These include both EF 
>macro lenses, and most fixed wide angle lenses like 24mm, 28mm, 35mm (the
>latter being introduced recently) to name a few.

Also the 15, the 20-35 f/2.8L, and the 80-200 f/2.8L don't use USM either.
(Though you could easily mistake the 80-200L to be a USM lens.)  There
are probably more as well.

>Canon may plan to switch to USM-only lenses in the future, but I don't
>believe they are ready to replace all non-USM lenses anytime soon.

Agreed.  They won't be re-doing all the existing AFD lenses anytime soon.

One advantage of AFD lenses:  cats will tolerate them.  Cats (at least
some of them) _hate_ USM lenses, and will run from the room.

+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
From: robert@labtam.labtam.oz.au (Robert Groom)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Canon EOS-2, digital EOS-1, rumours...
Summary: Rumours of Canon EOS-2 and digital EOS-1
Keywords: Canon EOS digital
Date: 15 Apr 92 02:37:56 GMT
Organization: Labtam Australia Pty. Ltd., Melbourne, Australia

The April 1992 issue of "Professional Photography in Australia" contains a
couple of remarks which may be of interest to Canon EOS-1 users...

on page 22, "The Electronic Future"
"... Digital cameras such as Kodak's F3-based DCS represent the first steps
towards 'pure' electronic imaging and there is little doubt the major
Japanese hardware manufacturers are working on similar projects (for example,
it's stronly rumoured Canon has a digital EOS-1 ready for launch)."

on page 23, "Another Long Shot From Canon"
"There were no signs of the much-rumoured EOS 2 which means attention now
switches to Photokina in September, but Canon did introduce yet another
EF mount supertelephoto.  It's a 500 mm f4.5 employing Canon's ultrasonic
(USM) focusing motor for silent operation over a five-metre to infinity range."

There has been some talk of an EOS-1 replacement recently in rec.photo but
this is the first mention I have seen of it outside the newsgroup.
Has anyone out there got any more information? 
-- 
                            "The question is not whether one has a sunroof,
Robert Q. Groom               but under what circumstances one opens it."
robert@labtam.oz.au
Labtam Australia Pty Ltd         phone: +61-3-587-1444 fax: +61-3-580-5581
From: berke@titan.Kodak.COM (Mike Berke)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried the Kodak/Nikon electronic camera?
Summary: Feature correction
Keywords: digital camera, Kodak
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:14:27 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <1992Apr14.003934.23316@minyos.xx.rmit.oz.au> s921886@minyos.xx.rmit.oz.au (James Chun Ng) writes:
>Hi:
>I think it not only goes on F3 but goes on F4 too, see it is only a databack type of gadget, so it can basically goes on anything. I work for Kodak (when not at Uni) seen it, played with it, must sat I like it, just a bit too bulky... the back the pack..e
stuff deleted...
>regards
>James

I've refrained from entering  into this discussion, as it would turn into a
commercial, but I feel I must correct an inaccuracy in the above response.

The sensor back that Kodak manufactures for the Nikon F3 is only for the F3.
It will fit no other camera.  Connections made to the camera body via the
winder and back are unique for each different manufacturer and model of 
camera.  

If you have questions, please call the Kodak information center.


=======================================================================
Kodak's Information Center (800-242-2424) (800-465-6325 in Canada).  
                        TDD: 800 755-6805
Lots of photographic information available and Kodak pays for the call.
=======================================================================
Mike Berke                         |  Even if Kodak thinks I'm "nobody",
Professional Photography Division  |  I'm really me!!
Advanced Imaging Technology        +-----------------------------------
Eastman Kodak Company              |  Acutally, I'm not sure that big
(716) 726-6823                     |  companies really think, so I 
berke@titan.kodak.com              |  guess these opinions are mine!
======================================================================
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: Prints --> Slides??????
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 16:28:09 GMT

In article <1906@transfer.stratus.com> rsavoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia) writes:
>
>A week or so back, someone posted that it is possible
>to make prints into slides (not the other way around!  
>That's been discussed numerous times here! :).  Is this
>actually possible and what process is used to do so?
>About how much would it cost?
>
>The reason I'm asking is because I'm going to be shooting a 
>regatta soon and it would be easier to have prints to show
>to the boat owners, but have slides to submit to magazines.
>I don't know if I can have both, but if anyone has any 
>information on the above mentioned process, I'd appreciate
>hearing about it.   
>
I can think of three ways to accomplish your task.  I will list them in order,
starting with the least desirable.

1.  Shoot color negative film.  Get GOOD QUALITY enlargements made of the
important frames (at least 5x7).  Then re-photograph those prints onto slide
film (properly lit with light to match the film).  With this method the quality
of the print will determine the quality of the slide; and saturation and
contrast will unavoidably be lost.

2.  Shoot color negative film.  Get prints made for the boat owners as necessaryThen convert the negatives to transparencies by shooting onto Vericolor Slide
Film 5072.  This is a C-41 negative film specifically designed to make color
slides from color negatives.  Some labs will do this.  Or you could do it 
yourself if you have a color-controlled light source (dichroic color head or
slide dupe source, or a set of color enlarger filters) and a way to make the
1:1 copy (like a slide duper).  The color balance and density of the slides is
completely under your control; you can even "improve" on the color of the
original scene.  The same color balancing rules as making color prints applies
in this case.  If you can find a lab that is experienced it this, you could
get excellent results.  If the lab is inexperienced, it could be an exercise
in exasperation.

3.  Shoot color slide film.   Get prints made for the boat owners from the
slides.  They will be more expensive than prints from negatives, but a good
lab should be able to deliver good quality.  Submit your original slides
to the magazine.  If you don't want to let your originals go, get duplicate
slides made and retain the originals.  If you do E-6 processing and have the
duplicating equipment, you can make your own duplicates on Ektachrome Slide
Duplicating Film 5071.

PS:  DON'T go to one of the mail order "Prints & Slides From the Same Film"
labs.  They use a variant of #2 but with motion-picture film.  But the real
reason not to is that they are thousands of miles away from you, and you
need to work closely with a LOCAL lab.  Don't skimp.

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah 84108
From: jimc@isc-br.ISC-BR.COM (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon EOS ELAN and lenses
Keywords: EF and USM lenses
Date: 7 Apr 92 00:28:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: isc-br.3609
Distribution: usa
Organization: ISC-Bunker Ramo, An Olivetti Company

In article <1992Apr1.114653.24772@sys.sweden.dg.com> robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
>You just can't say that the USM lenses are better/worse than non-USM
>lenses as a whole. For example, I have the EF 28-80/2.8-4L lens, which
>is a wonderful piece of glass -- extremely sharp even at large apertures
>and a very good contrast.

I have one, bought it as a Christmas present for myself using some 'found'
(i.e. unbudgeted) money...

>Tests I've read recently says that the 28-80/3.5-4.5 is a pretty good
>lens, although not as good (in the optical sense) as the 28-70/3.5-4.5
>non-USM lens it replaces.

The 28-80 L lens was bought to replace my 28-70 lens, to get a little
more aperture and to prove that I have no sense.  I was never unhappy
with the 28-70 (which I gave to my brother), it was always as sharp and
contrasty as I could desire.  Its worst problem was its tendancy to
lose the lens cap (so I stuck a keeper on it) and the inconvenience of
using a polarizer on it (it sucks the lens elements into the barrel at
intermediate zoom settings).  Unlike my purchase of the 20-35L, or my
other, earlier upgrade of the 70-210 f/4 to the 80-200 2.8L (which was
a definite improvement, especially in the handling area --- a delight
to use), the 28-80L lens was probably not worth the money (to me).  The
cheaper lens is a lot smaller and lighter, and it takes good pictures.
I kind of miss mine.  If the L had a fixed f/2.8 aperture I'd probably be
a lot happier with it, but it doesn't have _that_ much more than the
little lens.

>I'd try to get ahold of a 28-70/3.5-4.5 II (don't know what the "II" means,
>but it is there on the lens) before buying the 28-80/3.5-4.5. It is more
>noisy and doesn't focus as fast, but the optics are better.

The II means it was the second cut at the design.  I don't know of anyone
who ever saw the Mark 1 version of the lens.  I've been telling people
around here that the 'bargain EOS' of the <interval> is a 630 with the
28-70 II on it.  Good stuff, Maynard.  No red-eye or bleeding-edge
pricing, and it has some features (that I use a lot) that you can't get
on anything but an EOS-1 anymore.

+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
From: venable@faculty.coe.wvu.wvnet.edu (WALLACE VENABLE)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: A good word about SMILE PHOTO
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:38:30 GMT
Organization: WVU College of Engineering


                I just received an order from SMILE PHOTO.  It was my 
        third or fourth from them.  I've been satisfied each time.
             My most recent order was for a VCR.  I read reveiews and 
        adds, visited stores, and decided what I wanted.  I started with 
        the following information for my selection:
                  List price $750
                  Retail discount $599 + tax (local Video Concepts)
                  Smile ad $429 + shipping
             I called Smile.  "I want a Brand X 999."  "$459 U.S. warren-
        ty," says the voice.  "Your ad says $429."  "That was gray mar-
        ket.  It's out of stock," says the voice.  "I'll think about it."  
        "O.K.," says Smile.
             I flip the magazines, and call the much reccommended Camera 
        World of Oregon.  "$489 plus $20 shipping," says a sleepy west 
        coast voice. (It's 6:15 a.m. there.)  "I've seen a better price."  
        "O.K.," says sleepy.
             I call Smile again.  "Are you the one who called before?"  
        "Yup."   You can here the smile over the phone.  I place the 
        order.
             On the eighth day the VCR is here.  (You don't think I pay 
        for UPS Blue Label, do you?)  Factory sealed box, U.S. warrenty.  
        $459 plus $29 shipping.  I'm $21 ahead of Oregon.  I'm happy.
             If you are going to play the price game, learn how, and 
        you'll be happier.  The order specialist probably has to sell at 
        least $5000 worth of goodies an hour to make a good living, and 2 
        calls out of three are probably "no sale."  He _has_ to work 
        quickly.
             _CLEAR_POLITE_CONCISE_communications help in many places.  
        They help in "mail order" and computer networking.  The are 
        essential in many places like air traffic control and marine 
        operations.  
        
        "_STUDENTS_NEED_TO_LEARN_TO_COMMUNICATE_EFFECTIVELY_"
        (Yes, I know that there are poor non-student communicators here.  
        That's a quote from me, not a flame.)
        
                  -- a teacher, pilot, "mail order" buyer
From: madson@unix.SRI.COM (Carl Madson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Anyone going to PhotoProExpo?
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:40:58 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SRI International, Menlo Park, California

In article <1992Apr14.171729.10574@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com> kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com (Ken J. McFadden) writes:

>...  I also have a couple of muslim
>backgrounds, ...             ^^^^^^

How portable are these guys? How do they look when you take them out of the
carrying case?  ;-*)

[Sorry, just a bit zaggy today..]


		--Carl Madson, SRI International, Menlo Park, CA

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bburden@encore.com (Bruce Burden)
Subject: Re: How to clean multi-coated filters?
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 16:57:14 GMT

mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:


>I have two Hoya multi-coated filters (UV and 80A) and the instructions
>that came with the filters said not to use lens cleaner or lens cleaning
>paper.  How does one go about cleaning these filters?  Do they scratch
>very easily?  Are they useless if they have some small scratches?

>Marc


	The best way to clean a filter/lens is to first blow the
    loose "stuff" off, either with canned propellent or a large
    blower bulb. Then clean the "stuff" that sticks with a camel
    hair photo brush (a good blower bulb should include such an
    item).

	Once that is done, I then exhale (gently) on the lens/
    filter and wipe the lens/filter dry with a "PhotoClear" lens
    cleaner. For stubborn spots, I carry a bottle of "ROR" (residual
    oil remover, available from LL Rue Enterprises) which I apply
    first to the PhotoClear, and then gently rub the lens to
    remove the spot.

	The "PhotoClear" is a 6" x 6" cloth that is washable,
    lint free and re-usable. It is about $8.00, as I recall.



						Bruce



--
Bruce Burden

						"I like bad!"
						- Thuganlitha
						"The Power and the Prophet"

Snail: Encore Computer Corp, MS407, 1801 NW 66th Ave, Plantation, FL 33313
Uucp: {pur-ee,sun,uflorida!novavax,uunet,mcnc!rti,etc}!gould!bburden
Internet: encore.COM!bburden
From: supplies@sklib.usask.ca
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon FE for sale
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:41:56 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan

Nikon FE in great condition with 1.8 50mm Nikon
Mail me an offer around 350.00
Camera is somewhere between excellent and mint.

David Bindle
Saskatoon, Sask.
Canada
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bernard@tourng.enet.dec.com (Dave Bernard)
Subject: Non-SLR Medium Format
Reply-To: bernard@tourng.enet.dec.com (Dave Bernard)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 16:04:22 GMT


	SLR medium format photography is not cheap, and is
	probably too feature-laden for my needs.  I'd like to
	approach this medium from a more modest standpoint.

	Has anyone used the new Rolleiflex 2.8GX, and what do
	you think of it?

	How about the large Fuji rangefinders (6x9, 6x7)?

	A single, non-interchangeable lens is OK with me.

		Dave