HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HELP: Identify Alum Con Rod Brand
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 31 Dec 92 13:29:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> What Brand of Aluminum connecting Rods are these, For a big block
-> chevy. They have the Letters BRC cast into the rod bearing cap.

 They're BRC rods.  They're quite common, but I've never found an
address or phone for them, so they're not listed in the Automotive
Address List.
                                                        
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: yuen@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Geoffrey L Yuen)
Subject: ECU self-diagnosis on Dodge Conquest
Keywords: speed sensor not faulty
Reply-To: yuen@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 22:13:55 GMT

Hi everyone,

Have this '84 Dodge Conquest  (same as Mitshubishi Starion) problem of
unstable idle and hesitation ; have spent quite a bit of time troubleshooting 
but come to no avail so far:
[1] when I first notice this problem about a year ago, it seems to only show
      when the car is not completely warmed up but now it can show up almost 
       anytime
[2] the self-diagnosis circuit say 8, which is the code for the speed sensor
     inside the dash next to the speedometer cable. But I checked it twice,
     its okay. 
[3] the diagnosis comment for '8' says: air flow sensor output higher than 44 kHz
      (something large) when car is 2.5 mph or less. S0 I also checked the 
      air-flow temperature sensor, that's fine. The problem does seem to get
      a little better right after I cleaned the filter (K & N filterchanger). But the
      problem came back after 4 - 5 hours.
[4] Although the car has never died from unstable idle, but many times I failed
     to pull away from a stop efficiently so was blocking traffic

Any thoughts about this from you auto gurus out there ?

Many thanks in advance

-Geoff
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mustang GT EPA legal perfromance maximized
Date: 27 Dec 1992 15:35:51 -0600
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



Sorry to interrupt your discussion, but I have a question that one 
of you may be able to answer.
 
I have been considering purchase of a new Trans Am next spring 
with the 275 hp version of the Chevy 5.7.  An article indicated 
that this would be the hot setup, second only to a 5.0 litre 
Mustang.  When I went to a Ford dealer previously, the material on 
the Mustang did not give the hp rating of the 5.0 litre engine.  
Can someone tell me what it is rated at, both in hp and torque?

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
From: pnelson@opus.Tymnet.COM (Phil Nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: AC Delco oil filters?
Summary: On sale at K-Mart for 2 bucks, should I use them?
Date: 29 Dec 92 22:30:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: BT North America (Tymnet)


 I bought a PF13 because the K-Mart book had the wrong filter listed for
my '90 LeBaron GT with the 3 liter V6 (they listed the same filter that the
4 uses). It looks like it will fit, it is the same size as the FRAM PH16
that I ordinarily use, although the AC box says it crosses to FRAM PH3963.

I don't plan on putting this on my car without some more investigation, but
I wonder if anyone has an opinion about the quality of the filter?

 The side of the box is very interesting:

"The hotter temperatures, higher flow rates and tighter clearances of today's
engines demand improved oil filter performance, and AC DURAGUARD Oil Filters
provide the best value in high tech filtration for high tech engines."

If I may translate: "Modern engines need finer filters, AC is the cheapest
finer filter you can buy."


The thing is, I can buy 2 of these for every FRAM, and change twice as often.


Phil Nelson . pnelson@tymix.tymnet.com . San Jose, CA, USA . 408-922-7508

	Even a child is known by his actions,
	     by whether his conduct is pure and right.    Proverbs 20:11
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: What is the resonable oil
Date: 29 Dec 92 20:21:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  >>>Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:40:41 GMT >>>Message-ID:
  <1992Dec28.194041.15380@cbnewsc.cb.att.com> >>>Followup-To: poster

JI>>>I have a 68000 milse '86 190E/2.3.  It needs more than a quart of oil
  >>>between 3000 miles oil change.  The compression test showing the
  >>>engine is still like new.

JI>>>What is the your experience on the engine oil consumption for this
  >>>car?

JI>>>Thanks,
  >>>James
Blowby from a clogged pcv system...
                                        don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                         
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: Mustang GT engine light ..cold?
Keywords: aggravating
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 19:55:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.140252.21273@philabs.philips.com> sew@philabs.philips.com (Scott E. Wakeman) writes:
>Have any of you Mustang owners had a problem with the
>check engine light(even though there are no problems)?

>since the big storm hit the northeast and ushered in the
>cold winter a few days past, I've noticed in the morning
>my "CHECK ENGINE" light flashes intermittenly. That's
>even after I warm the car up for roughly 10 minutes.

This problem was the subject of a FoMoCo recall recently.  It is
apparently the computer itself that causes the problem.  Since this is
an emissions related part, if your car has less than 50,000 miles on
it the dealer should do it for free.

Call (800) 392-3673 to find out if your car is part of this recall.
Have your VIN handy.

ObPlug:  Join the Mustangs mailing list, where I heard about the
problem.  To subscribe, send mail to mustangs-request@hpda.cup.hp.com
and tell them Chucko sent you.

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov  Chucko@westmark.stanford.edu
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Babbitt metal
Date: 29 Dec 92 16:26:42 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


> Does anyone know where I can buy bars of Babbitt metal?  I need a
>number of light duty bushings and it'd be interesting to cast them
>instead of turning them on the lathe.

> Were there any other alloys besides Babbitt in common use, and if so,
>how did they compare?

>=======================================================================
>can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
>ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
>(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
>=======================================================================
>                                                                                                                         
I suggest you ask this on rec.crafts.metalworking....
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: torque curve questio
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:07:34 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 Recent Car Craft issues have had "reviews" of "crate" motors and also about
once a year they put out an "engines" issue. The 318 is always included.
The torque appears reasonably flat. If you want truck type info consider
browsing the 4WD/offroad mags at the magazine rack in the supermarket. They
are probably more torque-oriented than max HP @ max RPM. You ought to be
able to get 250-300 lb-ft by 2500RPM out of a 318.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: sbradley@scic.intel.com (Seth "Gimpy" Bradley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Shock Advice
Date: 29 Dec 92 21:17:07 GMT
Organization: Intel SCIC, Beaverton, OR
Originator: sbradley@rs015.scic.intel.com

I will soon be putting new shocks (along with springs and sway bars) in my
'88 CRX Si, and have to decide between KYB GasAdjust at $256/set, and
Toxicos (sp?) at $300/set.  I liked the KYB's when I had them on my Porsche.
Any comments?  Thanks!
-- 
Seth J. Bradley, Senior System Administrator, Intel SCIC
Internet: sbradley@scic.intel.com   UUCP: uunet!scic.intel.com!sbradley
----------------------------------------
"A system admin's life is a sorry one.  The only advantage he has over
Emergency Room doctors is that malpractice suits are rare.  On the other
hand, ER doctors never have to deal with patients installing new versions
of their own innards!"  -Michael O'Brien
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: <None>
From: zaphod@vax1.mankato.msus.edu
Date: 27 Dec 92 18:27:43 -0600
Organization: Mankato State University

System 48 plus is Kick ass Man. ever since I started using the engine treatment
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: All-Wheel Drive/4x4 Questions.
Date: 21 Dec 92 21:19:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: cup.BzMoKw.JIy
Distribution: rec
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
 
>All wheel drive (AWD) employs a front-to-rear differential, and so is more
>suited to full time use. Most AWD cars and *some* of the Cherokee models
>with "full time" 4WD use this system.

Lots of 4X4s have full time 4WD.  The NP203 transfer case was introduced
during the early '70s and was used on most brands of 4X4 pickups and
Jeep products. This was a cast iron transfer case, and developed a reputation
for both being strong as well as needing occasional changes of its
timing belt like drive chain. The transfer case has four positions,
"hi loc", "hi", "lo", "lo loc".  In the "loc" positions, the effect
was exactly like having a part time case in 4WD. Newer versions are 
lighter and offer on-the-fly low-to-high range shifts, and remain 
chain driven.

Full-time 4WD for cars is often offered with no "lock" potential.

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: shen@enel.ucalgary.ca (Liang Shen)
Subject: Help: how to start a dead car because of extremely cold weather??
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 93 07:08:04 GMT
Organization: ECE Department, U. of Calgary, Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Keywords: car-start, cold weather

Hi! Dear netters,

Because of extremely cold weather (below -30 c) and not pluged in, my
auto car has been dead for six days. Although I pluged in after it was
dead, it couldn't be started even in a relatively warm weather (-10c) as
well as with the help of other cars (boost). 

Could any of you give me some pointers about how to start such a dead car?
Please send your suggestion directly to shen@enel.ucalgary.ca.

Thanks in advance!

Liang Shen
shen@enel.ucalgary.ca
From: choudhry@wam.umd.edu (Zafar Ullah Choudhry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help... Car MPG has become very poor....
Date: 30 Dec 92 15:57:22 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

I have 1985 Mitsubishi Mirage whose MPG has reduced from 30 to only 15MPG.
Few weeks ago it failed the emissions test and I posted the problem in 
this news group. I suggested to change the carb. and I did that. However,
MPG problem is still there as is, although emissions have reduced.

Is it possible that this problem is due to high valve clearences, because
I haven't adjusted them for a long time.  My car has 1,20,000 miles on it.
Engine doesn't give any smoke while running. In the morning there is some
some for few minutes.

I have also checked all the hoses for any leaks, and found non. BTW, spark
plugs become full with carbon within two weeks. I'll appreciate if anyone
can help me out of this problem.

Thanks.
Zafar.


 (
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: djr48312@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Dennis Robinson)
Subject: HELP: MUSTANG GT wont start
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 20:51:30 GMT


Today I was driving along in my used '89 mustang GT and it shut off.  This
was after I was reaching under the seat for something and ended up with
a strange plastic cap in my hand.  As soon as I noticed I had this cap in
my hand the engine stuttered and eventually stopped.  I pulled the car over
to the side and tried to start it.  The starter turned with its usual vigor,
also the headlamps and stereo worked fine.  So I looked under the seat
(driver side front) and saw some device hooked up to 3 wires.  The cap fit
onto this device.  WIthout the "cap" the device looked like a bunch of metal
plates and had a small spring along the side of it.  There was a black mark
as if it had been shorted.  I tried to reset the fuel shut off also but that
was not the problem.  Now the car sits there and will crank but not connect.
Any help will be appreciated.

Dennnis J Robinson

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au (Micheal Rainford-Watson)
Subject: Asbestos from brake pads - How to clean it up safely
Organization: University of Canberra
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 01:07:04 GMT

Recently I was changing the brake shoes on my car and noticed all the
warnings about asbestos dust. What wasn't suggested was a way to get
rid of it without breathing it in. Does anyone know how to do this
safely and without any fancy tools?


-- 
Micheal Rainford-Watson        _--_|\   E-Mail: mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au
Administrative Systems Group  /      \  Phone : +61 6 201 2397
University of Canberra        \_.--.*/  Mail  : PO Box 1 BELCONNEN ACT 2616
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^v^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hruska@brtph380.bnr.ca (Bob Hruska P840)
Subject: Dodge 2.2L starting/electrical problem
Organization: BNR Inc. RTP, NC
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 23:19:49 GMT


I have a 1986 Dodge Charger with a 2.2L carbureted automatic.  There is
an intermittent electrical problem, probably a short, that I don't know
where to begin looking for.

The symptoms:

  Turn the key, the solenoid clicks once and everything DIES.  Totally dead.
  It's as if a circuit breaker has tripped at the battery - no inside lights
  will work or anything.

  Unhook the negative cable of the battery for about a minute, then hook it
  back up and power is restored.  Turn the key again, click - process starts
  over.

After fiddling around tracing wires, etc..., the problem went away.  This is
great until the next time it happens...

Any ideas as to what would cause the entire electrical system to stop
working like that?  And why disconnecting and reconnecting the battery would
cause it to return?  The only 'computer' I'm aware of in this vehicle is
the "Spark Control Computer" - could it possibly be shutting things down?

Thanks in advance for any advice.


-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Hruska         DoD #1982 | email: hruska@bnr.ca                        |
| BNR Inc. - XPM Base Software |USmail: 35 Davis Drive                       |
| RTP North Carolina           |        Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: st1q9@rosie.uh.edu (Devine, Della M)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mickey Thompson Street Tires?
Date: 25 Dec 1992 10:57 CST
Organization: University of Houston
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: rosie.uh.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Hi all!

    I have a slammed full size blazer with Mickey Thompson 29x15.5" street
tires.  I'm curious as to if they are capable of being used daily for a 
commute of 65 miles round trip?  Will they wear out way too quickly?
What problems would i have?  They are nylons and my front tires are steel
belted and i get a little drift when i drive on the street but i can live with
that.  What i don't want to live with is wearing out these $150 tires
when i can use a set of $80 steel belted jobbers althought i'll lose 4" of
width...    Should i leave these mt's on or use them just for racing?

william c devine ii

reply to: devine@pvhep.pvamu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Mopar 360 V-8 question
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 92 16:19:10 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

Harry.Johnson@launchpad.unc.edu (Harry Johnson) writes:

>I recently bought a very large vehicle equipped with the Chrysler 360 V-8. 
>My 1-ton Tradesman van doesn't have much original about it, but the engine
>and transmission are strong and (so far) dependable. 

>I kind of have the willies about driving the van at highway speeds,
>though.  I don't know what a reasonable top running speed for prolonged
>(120 miles or more) trips is and don't want to wear out the engine really
>fast.  I have rather arbitrarily set a limit for myself of 2700-2800 rpm
>for continuous freeway driving.

I used to drive my new 70 Dodge van using a brick cruise control.
That is, lay a brick on the accelerator and let 'er run whatever
speed she'll do.  That was about 100 mph or so.  Once made Cleveland,
Tn to Daytona in 11 hours or thereabouts.  I put 200k on the thing
and then sold it.  Last time I checked, it was still running.

Mopar engines are pretty tough.  Best thing you can do to your engine
is to avoid short trips, warm it thoroughly, change the oil at reasonable
intervals and don't lug it.  Lugging, particularly accompanied by detonation,
is the worst thing you can do to a motor.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: transmission quirk
Date: 21 Dec 92 23:35:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

   >>>Subject: transmission quirk >>>Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 21:36:40 GMT

JPM>>>I own a 1988 Olds 98 Regency Brougham. It has I believe a 4 speed automat
   >>>transmission.(There are two "drive" positions, the overdrive having a cir
   >>>around the "D". There seems to be a problem when driving the car at a ste
   >>>speed on level ground around 50 mph, and when a gradual incline approache
   >>>in the road. The transmission feels like it attempts to downshift to 3rd,
   >>>as it does, it does so indecisively, hicupping several times between 4th
   >>>3rd before it settles into 3rd. The jolting can be avoided by either driv
   >>>the car in "D" instead of "circle D", or pressing on the accelerator more
   >>>strongly at the onset of a hill.
   >>>   My mechanic adjusted a "torque converter switch", but this did not
   >>>help. He referred me to a tranmission specialist.  The tranmission specia
   >>>wants to connect the car to a diagnostic computer for $40 to find the pro
   >>>I suspect its something simple, like a vaccum line or modulator valve.
   >>> Can anyone out there give me some advice as to what may be the problem?
   >>>I would really appreciate some tips. Please send email as I don't regular
   >>>read this newsgroup.
   >>>                     Thanks
   >>>                     Jeff Manosh
You mechanic told you correctly. It most likely IS the torqueconverter
lockup that you feel. It would be worth the $40 to make sure of
EXACTLY what you need. It could be the switch that your guy "adjusted".
It could be the computer PROM itself, or it could actually be a more
serious internall trans problem.
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                      
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
|   Houston,Texas          yob.sccsi.com       Home of alt.cosuard       |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Slick 50
Date: 29 Dec 92 17:00:42 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Delaware

In article <BzxMJn.EnA@ecf.toronto.edu> wisznie@ecf.toronto.edu (WISZNIEWSKI SEBASTIAN) writes:
>Has anyone ever used SLICK 50 ? 
>If so, does it do what the bottle says it should do?

Your question has been debated at great length here so I'll summarize and 
hopefully prevent you from having to follow a month long thread.

1.  Many people feel S50 works because their gas milege went up or their vehicle
    has better acceleration or their vehicle starts easier.

2.  Many people feel S50 does nothing good or bad but is simply a waste of 
    money.

3.  Many people feel S50 harms the vehicle by blocking oil passages, oil filters
	 or some other undesireable effect.

SUMMARY

	 No one has yet supplied any documentation that S50 does damage.

	 Some have supplied documentation that S50 does work.

	 Some have argued quite convincingly that S50 cannot work.

OPINION

	 As a former S50 user I wouldn't spend the money.  Instead, just change your
	 oil at regular intervals and perform regular maintenence.


Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 100 000 miles at redline
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:24:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> A BMW ad claims their car (or was it just the engine?) was driven for
-> at redline 100 000 miles straight. The engine showed no signs of
-> wear.

 They used blind mechanics, or they're simply outright liars.
From: paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Pete Paraska)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mopar 360 V-8 question
Date: 28 Dec 92 13:03:37 GMT
Organization: David Taylor Model Basin

>Mopar engines are pretty tough.  Best thing you can do to your engine
>is to avoid short trips, warm it thoroughly, change the oil at reasonable
>intervals and don't lug it.  Lugging, particularly accompanied by detonation,
>is the worst thing you can do to a motor.
>
>John

John, (or anybody), could you elaborate on why lugging an engine is the 
worst thing you can do to it?  What harm does it do to the engine?
I've heard that it can cause head gasket problems.  Is this true?
|////////////////////////////////////////////////|
| Pete Paraska       (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil) |
| David Taylor Model Basin, CARDEROCKDIV         |
|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\|
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Madness due to carb backfire
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 08:26:16 -0500

 MZ> The result of this is a beautifully working engine except for this 
 MZ> !@#~$%^&*
 MZ> carb pop. I am running out of ideas (and money). Any suggestions would 
 MZ> be
 MZ> appreciated.

Can you set it to run a little richer?