HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gellmore@pearl.tufts.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: news
Date: 12 Jan 93 23:55:10 GMT
Organization: Tufts University - Medford, MA

re Catalpa Tree

cancel
Oh, never mind, looks like I'm committed to this note. Catalpa is one of my
favorite trees, BUT if I were to play the devil's advocate, I would remind
prospective planters that it has weak wood, prone to breaking in gusts of wind,
and that it drops more than leaves. In late Spring, it drops lots of large
corollas (unified petals) that tend to stick to shoes and get tracked in the
house. And the long (as in 12 to 18") fruits can shed seeds and spend casings
over several months of the year. 

Personally, I think its a fine price to pay for a GREAT shade tree, but you DID
ask for any disadvantages...

Good luck. A closely related tree which blooms profusely before leaves come out
is Paulownia tomentosa (Royal Paulownia). Its a real messy one. Grows even
faster than does Catalpa, flowers are even stickier, and wood is even weaker.
But it is an explosion of light purple when it blooms in early Spring.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: wybo@adi.com (Dave Wybo)
Subject: availability of a plant database
Organization: Applied Dynamics
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 14:45:46 GMT


In trying to start up a native plant business, I quickly tire of manually
matching appropriate plants to the clients growing conditions, habitat, color
preferences, etc.

I have found several very good references in hard copy form, but was wondering
if anyone knows of an online form of any of these books, preferably in a
database that can be quickly searched and sorted by a variety of
classifications.  Does anyone know of the availability of such a thing?  If so,
where can I get it?  If not, do you think that, considering the number of 
flower books that are sold each year, that there would be a market for such a
thing?  Would you prefer UNIX, DOS, or MACOS?  Any favorite data base packages
to target it to?

Thanks for your help.  If there is enough interest, I will keep this newsgroup
appraised of any progress.

BTW, please respond directly, as I do not receive this newsgroup.  Thanks a
bunch.

								dave

-- 
--
Dave Wybo  Applied Dynamics, 3800 Stone School Road, Ann Arbor, MI 48108
(313) 973-1300  Internet: wybo@adi.com  uucp: (sharkey|heifetz)!amara!wybo
--
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: mnb@mira.ca.boeing.com (Mike Burr)
Subject: Re: pond underweater plants
Organization: BoGART Graphics Development
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:57:37 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.191701.10898@cichlid.com> aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess) writes:
>
>Underwater oxygenating plants are a pondkeepers myth -- they add scant 
>oxygen to the water and in darkness actually compete with fish for oxygen.
>

Andy, 

Your statement is contradictory to everything I have read - both on pond
maintenance and general ecological reading.  I'm sure other people are
curious as well as to how you have arrived at this conclusion.  Could
you please your sources and/or data that have led you to this conclusion?

Thanks,


-- 
Michael Burr  Boeing Computer Services, Bellevue WA
              Email:mnb@voodoo.ca.boeing.com
From: mpc@apldbio.com (Morgan Conrad)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: SF Rose Society
Date: 5 Jan 93 00:41:50 GMT
Distribution: ca
Organization: Applied Biosystems Inc, Foster City, CA

Does anybody have a phone number or address for the San Francisco
Rose Society?  Even better, I believe they have a meeting coming
up this weekend, does anybody know when and where?  Thanks.


Morgan Conrad              Who grants absolution
Applied Biosystems           for sins that never were committed?
mpc@apldbio.com
415-570-6667
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jrm@lgc.com (John Moore)
Subject: epazote
Organization: Landmark Graphics Corp., Houston, Tx.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:04:45 GMT

Does anybody know where I can get seed for some "epazote".

It's an herb that looks like cilantro but tastes much different. 

The herb is used in tortilla soup, corn husk, chilaquiles, and the like.

Any info would be appreciated.
-- 
*-------------------------------------------------------------*
*    John R. Moore           Landmark Graphics Corporation
*    15150 Memorial Drive    Houston, TX 77079-4304
*    jmoore@lgc.com          (713)-560-1080
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Preparing Clay Soil for Planting
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
	<1993Jan4.232543.3549@voodoo.ca.boeing.com> 
	<1993Jan8.222946.26930@gvl.unisys.com>
Date: 9 Jan 1993 21:26:56 UTC

In article <1993Jan8.222946.26930@gvl.unisys.com> 
garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP]) writes:
>Thanks to everybody for the advice on clay soil preparation.
>I have one question... How does one go about mixing
>bark chips 4 feet into soil?

Now, make sure it's ground fir bark, say pieces smaller than 1/4" or so,
not the big bark chunks (2x2" and larger) used as decorative mulch. Also
rice hulls are said to work just as well and may be cheaper. As for
working the soil to a four foot depth, this will take some time. Do
little patches at a time, start with a small garden and slowly expand
it. Plant shrubs and trees over the years instead of trying to make an
instant rain forest all at once. Fast planting has a false, cheezy,
new-SUBurb, look to it. Drive around your area and study the vegetation.
You should find older neighborhoods with nice mature vegetation which
did not occur over night. As for the tools required; the best, most
expensive shovel you can find, pick axes, perhaps a rock bar and in
really bad cases perhaps a sledge hammer to break up the clods. If it
seems like a lot of work, it is, but when taken slow the investment pays
off. On heavy clay or shallow bedrock soils, I would go with raised beds of
imported garden loam bought by the truckload.

>Party On...

Sure, why not. Just take it easy.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.co-evolution
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: Re: Wall-o-Water (for tomatoes)
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:43:59 GMT

In <psmith.726343485@cunews> psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) writes:

>Wall-O-Water, Kozy Coats ... call them what you will.  I'm curious
>about these tomato plant outdoor wraps that are filled with water in
>order to allow earlier transplanting, and faster yield.

>Have people had good experiences with them.  In particular:

>1) how much earlier did you get a yield

>2) any precautions

>3) what else are they used on (eg: peppers, early melons, ...)

>Thanks in advance

My old friend Dick Fugett has used them for years and consistently has
the earliest edible tomato in his area.  I've crossposted this to alt.co-
evolution because it's something that CoEvolution Quarterly recommended
years ago and I even sold for a while.  Wall-o-water works very well to
extend the cold-hardiness.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ckelly@math.nwu.edu (Christopher Kelly)
Subject: Bay or magnolia
Organization: Dept of Math, Northwestern Univ
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 19:45:29 GMT


--
Recently I purchased a "Sweet Bay Magnolia" from a local nursery. It
is beautiful, although now of course it is bare.  My question: Is this
in fact what I think it is, i.e., is this a bay tree, from which I can
pick tender young leaves to put in my soups and pickling? 

--Chris Kelly    internet: ckelly@math.nwu.edu
                 phone:    (708) 491-8020
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Subject: Re: e Magazine
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:29:55 GMT

I have prescribed to "Horticulture" magazine for years, and I like it.

My favorite part is the last-page item showing one native American plant
each issue.  I also like their book reviews and articles focusing one
one species, such as magnolias, peppers, etc.

I am rather tired of the "ooo look at the pretty garden" articles, showing
yet another millionaire's estate--somewhat beyond my budget.  Also, their advice
column is still a bit behind the times organically.  Although it has
improved, this liberal's perception is that it still follows the predictable
Strangelovian formula...
   Q. Dear editor.  I got bugs.  Sincerely, Bugged.
   A. Dear bugged.  Nuke 'em!  Drown 'em in chemicals!  Gargle with sevin
      and spit it in their little faces!  Kill, kill, kill!

Dave Daulton
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.pagan
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Herb names
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 5 Jan 1993 03:27:56 UTC

In article <C0CMqB.I7w@lysator.liu.se> 
ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) writes:
>I have a list of plants with only common names. Most of the plants I
>have been able to identify, but not all, so I am turning to the
>netters for help. Here is the list:
>S:t Joan's (or S:t John's) wort                      (the sun)

Hypericum perforatum - St. John's wort. The herb and fruit are sometimes
used as a tea. Flowers can be used for making mead. Eurasia.

>all-heal                                             (mars)

Prunella vulgaris - Self-heal, All-heal. A refreshing beverage can be
made by soaking the leaves, either freshly chopped or dried and
powdered, in cold water. Young shoots and leaves are eaten raw in
salads, cooked with other greens as a potherb, or added to soups and
stews. Eurasia, naturalized in N. America.

>betony                                               (mars)

Stachys officinalis - Betony, Bishop's wort. An infusion of the leaves
and flowering tops makes a refreshing, aromatic beverage. Europe.

>High Joan the Conqueress (or John the Conqueror) root(money)
>broom tops                                           (protection)

Broomcorn for making brooms? Panicum miliaceum, Sorghum bicolor ...

>gota cola                                            (energy)

Centella asiatica - Gotu-kola, Indian pennywort. The leaves are eaten
raw in tossed salads, steamed and served with rice, or cooked in
vegetable soups and stews. In Thailand the juice of the leaves is used
as a refershing drink. A tea made from the leaves, called long-life tea,
was regularly consumed by Professor Li Chung Yon, who reputedly lived
265 years and married 24 times. Warmer regions of the Old World.

>The associations of the author of the book are listed to the right,
>though I doubt that they will help. What I need, is some kind of other
>identification, either another common name, or a systematic (latin)
>name. The above common names are verbatim quotes.
>The source of the names is Starhawk's _The_Spiral_Dance_. One last
>question, are bay laurel and laurel the same plant?

Lauraceae - Juss. Laurel Family. Dicot.; about 47 genera and 2,000-2,500
spp. of trees and shrubs, often aromatic, native mainly to trop. and
subtrop. regions ... Among other economic products, members of the
family yield camphor (Cinnamomum camphora), cassia (C. cassia), cinnamon
(C. zeylanicum), the avocado (Persea americana), and important timbers
(Aniba, Nectandra, etc.).

So, many plants are called laurels, in fact some aren't even members of
the family. THE Greco/Roman laurel is Laurus nobilis, aka laurel, bay
laurel, sweet bay, the leaf used to make spaghetti sauce. The California
laurel is Umbellularia californica, aka laurel, bay laurel, Oregon
Myrtle, the leaf used to make spaghetti sauce.

Ref: Cornucopia, A Source Book of Edible Plants, Stephen Facciola,
Kampong Publications, Vista, CA, ISBN: 0-9628087-0-9
Hortus III, Macmillan Publishing, NY, Collier Macmillan Publishing, London
From: rk30+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ruth Kline)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Source for castor beans?
Date: 6 Jan 93 04:19:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.MfGieCS00iV1E15n8g
Organization: Information Services, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Just saw castor beans in one of the seed catalogs that I've been
receiving. I believe it was in the Gurney's catalog -- they're in South
Dakota. If you're interested, I can get the phone number and address.
Occasionally you can find castor beans locally in a place that carries a
large selection of seeds, but I have a feeling that they are not big
sellers. They are great plants, though, and will serve your purpose
well. A mature plant will furnish a lifetime supply of bean seeds, too.
Let me know if you want Gurney's address/phone number.
-- Ruth Kline, Carnegie Mellon University
From: afong@sdcc13.ucsd.edu (Krell Kraver)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Date: 9 Jan 93 19:24:29 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego

In article <1993Jan7.143118.1@kean.ucs.mun.ca> mnewton@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:
>sides near the top by hammering in nails. Seems to work fine. My only problem 
>seems to be an overabundance of fruit flies, just as the worm lady warned. 

I have found that the population levels go up and down.  At one
point there were a lot and I found them very annoying.  Most of the
time, however, there aren't very many.  I wish I knew what
influenced their numbers.  I have found that there are 30 spiders
living in the worm bin lid (they seem to have adapted well to the
regular opening and closing!).  I think they have a lot to do with
keeping the numbers down, considering how many there are and how
large they grow. 

You might try experiments with pH levels to see if you can produce
an environment unfavorable to fruit fly breeding but favorable to
composting.



Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: Cure for Moles?
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Distribution: pnw
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 00:47:58 GMT

In article <lkmcr4INNe21@appserv.Eng.Sun.COM> fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix) writes:
>
>My son treated our last mole to trumpet blasts...the mole left
>the vicinity within a day or so...wish the gopher that moved in
>later had been so accommodating.
>
>I was sorry to see the mole go, actually...they're pretty nifty,
>sort of like underground bats.
>
>Local cats seem to like trying to catch them at night when they
>come out to dance on the lawn.  Or something.

Reminds me of my favorite mole story.  When my son was about 5, our
cat caught the biggest mole I had ever seen (hamster size, at least)
and left it under the dining table.  Glen decided it needed a cross
and funeral, although I told him it probably hadn't been baptized, so
a simple burial should suffice.  Later he proudly showed me a
flowerpot-shard tombstone, inscribed 'Here lies Mole. Kild by
Pounce.", and a cross made of sticks.  I expressed maternal pride in
his solicitude, and he very seriously responded, "Yes, you know, most
of the really BIG moles are Christian."


-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kinney@isis.cgd.ucar.edu (Rodney Kinney)
Subject: Re: Preparing Clay Soil for Planting
Summary: Sand !!!
Organization: Climate and Global Dynamics Division/NCAR, Boulder, CO
	Yes, everyone will tell you that adding organic matter is all
	Just take the time initially to break up the soil as much as
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 02:29:27 GMT
From: ct076@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Michael T. Loos)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: spring fever
Date: 9 Jan 1993 20:08:39 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Dear Virginia,
(It was Virginia, wasn't it?)

This is the first year I haven't had spring fever.
I started collecting seeds in August and started stratifying them in 
September.  It was something I've done before but this is the first 
year I've really felt the whole thing as one big cycle.  Sorry I
don't mean to be COSMIC or anything- it just felt good.

This is the first year I've grown Stewartia from seed.  Does anyone 
have any luck with it?  It is presently in a 5 month warm cycle of
double dormancy. Afterwhich I'll refridgerate it for 3 months.  
Any suggestions anyone?

Michael
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Cacti seedsdir
Date: 11 Jan 93 19:50:37 -0600
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1it2paINN6gr@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bp816@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Krivis) writes:
> 
> I recently wound up with some cacti and succulent seeds. They 
> were ordered for me as a gift by a well-meaning friend.
> 
> Can anyone suggest the best method for growing these? I don't
> know that much about growing plants from seed.

Ooh!  Fun!  Baby cacti don't look much like big cacti.  Some even have
real leaves when you raise the young seedlings under high humidity conditions.

Just get some potting soil (like potting soil from K-Mart, etc.,) and
mix it about 50-50 with plain sand, like goes in sandboxes (not ocean
beach sand).     Fill a shallow tray with holes in the bottom about
2" deep with this mixture.  Sprinkle the seeds in a +/- even layer over
the top, then cover with about 1/4" sand.  Water (gently, so you don't
disturb the seeds and sand) and put it in a warm place (like the top of
the refrigerator, or top of the TV).  Seedlings will begin to appear in 
a week or so, depending on the species and the temperature.  When they
get to the point that you can see "baby cacti" between the cotyledons
(seed leaves), it's time to transplant them.  Scoop them out gently and
transfer them to a small pot of their own, in the same soil/sand mix.

Things to remember:
   Germinating seeds have to be in constantly moist soil.  So even though
they're cacti and succulents, you have to water-- especially if the
air is dry in your house.
   Once seedlings have come up, they need good strong light.  The ideal
combination is good strong light and bottom heat (like the heat that
rises into the tray from the TV or refrigerator...)
  Small pots and small plants dry out quickly.  Dried out plants are
dead plants.

If you want to get fancy about it, I've germinated mixed species of cactus
at 65oF, and waited for everything that was going to germinate to come up.
Then I transplanted those seedlings and moved the seed tray to 75oF,
where a different bunch of species began to germinate.  I repeated the process
at 85oF.  Because different species like to germinate at different temperatures
and different times, I started with the species that liked cool temperatures
and wound up with the ones that preferred to grow at warm temps.   I also
got many more species out of that mixture than if I had used only one
germination temperature.

Have fun!

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

This have been probably asked before but ...


Does anyone knows of mail-order houses (address and phone) that sells 
gardening and landscaping supplies?  I am more interested in getting irri- 
gation materials (valves, sprinklers, drip-irrigation,etc) and related stuff.
In Puerto Rico most of these materials are distributed by a few people that
charges almost the double of what they cost in the states.


I will appreciate your help!


Miguel


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mnb@mira.ca.boeing.com (Mike Burr)
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Organization: BoGART Graphics Development
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:23:20 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.171058.61439@qut.edu.au> rees@qut.edu.au writes:
>   Some feeds they really seem to like are:
>   Any kind of manure
>   Coffee grounds or tea leaves
>   Cereals
>   Grass clippings
>

    Banana peels - they love em'
    Melon rinds


    What are other peoples experiences?


-- 
Michael Burr  Boeing Computer Services, Bellevue WA
              Email:mnb@voodoo.ca.boeing.com
From: bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Questions concerning SALSIFY/VEGETABLE OYSTER
Date: 11 Jan 1993 17:28:32 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Greetings to all.

In my anticipation for the quickly approaching
new growing season, I've been listing potential
crops for my unfortunately undersized garden.
Something tells me I'm biting off more than I
can chew.  :-)  I have about 150 square feet of
space and my list so far probably occupies at
least 300 SF. Sigh... some things will have to go.

Anyway, I wish to tap into the "net wisdom". I've
been reading this newsgroup for over a year and
don't recall seeing this vegetable discussed.
(Forgive me if I'm wrong please).

I've seen SALSIFY/VEGETABLE OYSTER listed in
almost all of my seed catalogs. But they usually
have little to say regarding the root other than
that their taste resembles oysters. Usually only
one or possibly two varieties are listed (MAMMOTH).
Needless to say, it takes up little space in most
catalogs and would be easy to miss.

Has anyone had any experience with this vegetable?
Does it's taste really approach oysters? Is it worth
a square foot or two in my garden? Only one catalog
that I've seen is willing to expand (slightly) on
SALSIFY. Vermont Bean Seed Co. 1992 catalog states:
"Cook like beets or carrots, or bake, fry, or serve
in soups. Peel skins after cooking." Can it be eaten
raw as well? Or is cooking what brings on the flavor?

Any input is welcome and appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Keith
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Keith W. Bowes, P.E.
bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re:Peppers from seeds in New England
Date: 7 Jan 93 18:08:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT

In article:: <1993Jan5.185344.27326@nntpd.lkg.dec.com>
       jam@chapln.enet.dec.com (Joe Micozzi) asks:

>Has any had any luck growing pepper plants from seeds??  I live in New England
>so I am especially interested if any one from New England has had any luck.  
>
>The catalog say's 70-80 day's which is the summer around here.
>
>*********************************************************************************
>jam@chapln.enet.dec.com
>*********************************************************************************

My Dad grows peppers from seeds every year on Cape Cod.  He has wonderful 
luck with jalepenos, less with sweet peppers (the summers on the Cape are 
not really warm enough most years.

I, too, have grown peppers from seeds.  I am in Natick, 15 miles west of 
Boston.  I haven't done this in several years, (too lazy) :')

Start them in a month.  Set them out Memorial Day (or earlier if the 
weather seems settled.

Have fun!

--Jill

--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    |
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: seed catalogs
From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 13:30:54 GMT
Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services

As a FAQ, you may obtain two or three listings from sunsite.unc.edu under
sustainable_agriculture\recgardens. I'm not sure what is above it. If you
can't FTP, e-mail to london@sunsite. The complete listing for the
sustaiable_ag site is often posted to the rural.liv (or what ever the name
is... I know rural is in it)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ihw@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (irwin.h.walkenfeld)
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:19:19 GMT
Keywords: fruitflies

I have a worm composting bin for about six months.  Early on, I had 
a terrible problem with fruitflies.  I solved it by providing
better drainage so that its about as wet as a squeezed out sponge.

Irwin Walkenfeld
att!hrmso!ihw
Newsgroups: rec.gardens