HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kyoder@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Kenneth Yoder)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Sheep?
Date: 29 Jul 92 16:09:18 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Jul29.092205.20483@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>Hmmmm....a pasture full of rabbits.  I can see the neighbors' faces now!
>
>Actually, my grandfather used to raise rabbits, and as I recall the meat was
>VERY good.  I suppose a chicken-wire fence would do.  How many rabbits would
>be right for about 1/2 acre worth of pasture?

A pasture full of rabbits WOULD be quite a sight!  Actually, they are kept in
individual cages (approx. 3'x3' and about 30" off the ground).  If anyone is
interested in the cage description I would be happy to provide it. 

FYI, I currently live on a 50'x100' lot in town (hopefully moving to the 
mountains on 46A in a month or two).  They were about the only thing we could
raise for meat production.  All the cages are under a grape arbor which works
great (shade in the hot summer, and sun in the cold winter).

Rabbits DO taste great (like chicken but a *little* tougher).  They are easy
to raise and you can butcher a litter in approx. 3-4 months.  I have found a
quick, and easy (on the rabbits AND myself) way of butchering them and will
share that too if anyone is interested.

Rabbits are an often neglected food source that we have greatly enjoyed.  
Give them a try!

Ken Yoder
kyoder@lamar.colostate.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: neilson@osf.org (Peter Neilson)
Subject: Re: What to do with old barn?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 18:54:07 GMT

1. Very often the beams are of chestnut, a wood no longer available.
   Some hobbiest woodworkers will sell their grandmothers to get their
   hands on good chestnut.  Does your friend need a grandmother?

2. Some people turn them into houses.

3. Some people flip them inside out and turn them into house
   interiors.

4. Some people sell them, disassembled and keyed for reconstruction
   elsewhere.  You have to take pictures, number all joints according
   to a scheme, etc.  A local Amishman might be able to give good
   clues about how to think about the basic construction of a barn
   that is to be reassembled.  He might even know someone who would
   want to buy it.

5. Some just let them rot.  I think this is the most popular option.
-- 
            >>>  Peter Neilson  --- neilson@osf.org  <<<
        PROTECT YOUR SIGNATURE FILE AGAINST UNNECESSARY TRANSMISSION.
(Quotation changed daily.  If you've seen this one before, it's still yesterday.)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bailebn@mail.auburn.edu (Bliss Bailey)
Subject: Re: Weedeater recommendations
Keywords: weedeater, two-cycle, sputter, putt-putt, smoke
Reply-To: bailebn@mail.auburn.edu
Organization: Auburn University
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 15:04:03 GMT

In article 14901@fns-nc1.fns.com, mcnc!fns-nc1.fns.com!gcm (Grover McCoury) writes:
>I am seeking recommendations for good, reliable *gas-powered* Weedeaters.
>A friend of mine suggested Poulan brand. Anybody have any other suggestions?
>
>Thanx 
>
>  Grover McCoury

What timing--I am taking the last class of a "Small Gasoline Engine 
Repair" course offered by our Continueing Education department here at 
Auburn, and, although that doesn't make me an expert, I have had the 
opportunity to listen to some expert opinions.  I also recently went 
through the buying process, and since I was lookingfor a BIG one, I 
did a little research.  

According to our instructor, Poulan is a little like Briggs & Stratton--
"Not the best, but the most".  They are pretty good, inexpensive, and 
are fine for light- and medium-duty work.  Parts are readily available,
although if they have major problems, they are considered "disposable".  
i.e.--nobody "rebuilds" a Poulan line trimmer, because it's cheaper to 
buy a new one.  Incidentally, I believe Poulan makes the actual "Weedeater"
line of gas trimmers.

Consider what your use will be, as well.  I was looking for something with
some muscle, because I have  mile of fence-row, and a half-mile of pond
bank to keep up.  Another recommendation I got (this from an equipment 
rental place) was Echo.  They bought them to rent because they are sturdy,
easy to maintain, and they are worth putting repair time into.  One of the
chainsaw makers (either Homelite or McCullough) makes a good line of trimmers,
as well.  

If you are going to do any trimming with a blade, as opposed to just string,
look for one with a straight shaft.  They are sturdier, the drive mechanism
usually lasts longer, and often safer, because the cutting surface is farther
away from your legs and feet.

I ended up buying a Craftsman.  I am reasonably satisfied.  The three-year 
maintenance contract ($30) is what sold me.  They will fix/repair/tune-up
for three years for no charge.  Even replace blades.  It is about 40cc, and 
has plenty of muscle.  Lots more than most people need.  I can cut through
2.5" saplings with no problem.  The shaft is straight, and about 5' long, so 
that when I am "in harness", the blade can't get back to my feet.  It will
kick to the side, however.  If I swing it gently into a sweetgum sapling and
the blade binds or pinches, it will kick out and try to spin me like a top.  
Great care is needed when cutting big stuff.

Well, enough of this drivel.  Good luck.

Bliss Bailey
Auburn University
Auburn, AL
bailebn@mail.auburn.edu
From: jye@usna.navy.mil (Jean Edgar (CADIG STAFF))
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Mother Earth News back issues available
Date: 31 Jul 92 15:14:20 GMT
Organization: U. S. Naval Academy

I have a bunch of Mother Earth News magazines that need a good home.
If you're interested, contact me and we'll work out the details.

Jean Edgar  jye@usna.navy.mil

-- 
Jean Y. Edgar (Computer Systems Analyst)  internet: jye@usna.navy.mil
Division of Engineering & Weapons         uucp:     ...!uunet!usna!jye
U.S. Naval Academy                        Tel:      410-267-4413
Annapolis, MD 21402-5042                  Autovon:      281-4413
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: What to do with old barn?
Date: 30 Jul 92 19:27:07 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto

neilson@osf.org (Peter Neilson) writes:

[Re: what to do with old barns]

>1. Very often the beams are of chestnut, a wood no longer available...
>2. Some people turn them into houses.
>3. Some people flip them inside out and turn them into house interiors.
>4. Some people sell them, disassembled and keyed for reconstruction...
>5. Some just let them rot.  I think this is the most popular option.

6. Use them as barns!     

Robert Enenkel (self-proclaimed master of the obvious :-)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: mpleis@iastate.edu (Cowboy)
Subject: Re: Fiberglass Fencing Info
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 16:21:57 GMT

In article <4060004@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> laurie@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Laurie Schaaf) writes:
>
>
>
>
>         F i b e r g l a s s   F e n c i n g . . . . . . . . . .
>         =======================================================
>
>We are using it at our stables and it is great!  Here are the details:
>
>
Stuff deleted...

>We looked at Wood and Steel Fencing and decided to go with Fiberglass for it's
>price and ease of installation.  Several mini-farms and acreages are just
>finding out about this product and are very interested.  The representative
>we are working through is the person who holds the patent.  We are so 
>impressed with the product we thought we would share it with you.  If you
>are interested in more detailed info let me know and I will send you a 
>brochure.
>
On our Dairy we have using PVC fencing for about 6months.  It has the same 
features for the firberglass includding.

Square rails
will never get discolored
stronger
lifetime warranty


-- 
mpleis@iastate.edu     Mark L. Pleis 
Agricultural Systems Technology, Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa

Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: coleve@cc.uvcc.edu
Subject: Re: Old Barn in exurban area
Organization: Utah Valley Community College
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 20:00:38 GMT

In article <1992Jul31.154932.9949@infonode.ingr.com>, knightf@infonode.ingr.com (Frank Knight) writes:
> In article <1992Jul31.080432.23435@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> bm010@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (J. A. Stewart) writes:
>>
>>Anybody out there have any experience with the possible harm
>>done by applying paint or other protective coating to a
>>80-90-year-old carriage barn that has naturally-weathered
>>siding?
>>
>>It hasn't been painted in 20-30 years, but the local town
>>idiots have decided it should now be painted. We plan to fight
>>them, but we need some ammunition.
>>
>>Can anyone offer any helpful info.
>>
> Yea, it's probably gonna peel in a few years if they paint it, why
> don't they spray it with a clear natural wood protectant?  Once it
> peels, it requires high pressure water treatment for a repaint,
> and tends to be a cycle.
> 
Try linseed oil, tung oil (if you want a sheen), or shingle oil.
That would preserve the natural look of the wood while protecting the
structure.  It should keep the busybodies happy and protect your investment.

Ummmmm..... are there any carriages, harnesses, singletrees, neck yokes,
horse collars, etc, in that carriage house?
-- 
-- Vern Cole -- Also into harnesses, etc. & soon to be in Mackay, Idaho.
From: bailebn@mail.auburn.edu (Bliss Bailey)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Gasoline in Small Engines
Date: 29 Jul 92 15:14:01 GMT
Reply-To: bailebn@mail.auburn.edu
Organization: Auburn University

In article 2638@CERIS.Purdue.EDU, tfisher@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Tom Fisher) writes:
>When I
>got my Echo out this spring (three months ago), I had trouble
>getting the thing to run and I noticed the fuel line looked very
>deteriorated.  I returned the unit to the dealer and they
>replaced the fuel line (under warranty) and that did solve the
>problem.  However, the technician who did the repairs said it
>looked to him like the fuel line had had alcohol going thru it
>and that is what caused the deterioration.  I assured the guy
>that I didn't put any alcohol in the fuel mixture but he remained
>firm in his belief that alcohol caused my problem.
>
>In thinking back over where I had likely purchased the gasoline
>which I used in my fuel mixture, it occurred to me that a
>cut-rate (read "cheap") filling station on my way home was the
>place.  So I went there and looked closely at the pumps and guess
>what?  Every pump on the property had a small notice that read
>"Contains 10% Methanol".  I'm now convinced that this was the
>source of my problem.  So for what it's worth, my recommendation
>on fuel (gasoline) is to pay a few cents more and buy good
>quality, name brand stuff.
>

No doubt worth the extra few cents.  In addition, when you store 
the equipment for more than a couple of weeks, it pays to empty
the gas tank and run the machine dry.  That way the gasoline doesn't
break down, and your carb. doesn't get gummed up.  Using fresh
gasoline can be pretty important for small engines as well.  The 
octane level drops pretty rapidly for gasoline under storage.

Our local repair shop owner mixes the minimum fuel/oil mixture he
needs, and pours any leftovers into his truck gas tank _every_time_
he uses one of his own pieces of equipment with a two-cycle engine.
The small amounts of two-cycle oil don't hurt, and may even help his
truck engine (over a quarter of a million miles with no rebuild), 
although I don't know what it does to his emissions.

Bliss Bailey
Auburn University
Auburn, AL
bailebn@mail.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: spf@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (Steve Frysinger of Blue Feather Farm)
Subject: Re: Sheep [manure]?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 14:37:37 GMT

From article <1992Jul23.075211.10271@mr.med.ge.com>, by hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987):
> I am lending some pasture space to a neighbor of mine, as I wanted it cleared
> (currently it is unoccupied) and he wanted to feed his sheep.  My question is
> this:  How good is sheep 'manure' for gardening, etc?  Is it worth the effort,
> or should it just stay in the pasture.

Sheep and goat manure is probably about the best available for the garden.
It's high in nitrogen, but not so high (as chicken manure) as to burn.  It's
packaged in tiny pellets (how do they DO that?), so it doesn't kill the
pasture it falls on and can be easily raked up with a leaf rake.  And boy,
our gardens and orchards sure thrive on the stuff.  I just rake every so
often under the tree where our girls go to ruminate.  In 20 minutes I can
rake and pick up 2-3 wheelbarrow loads (15+ cuft).  Great stuff.

> Also, there are a lot of thistles in there, which he says they probably won't 
> eat.  Will they eat them if I cut them down & they dry out?

Ours won't eat the thistles under any conditions.  The goats pass on them
too, unfortunately.

Steve
From: cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Andrew M. Cohill)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Weedeater recommendations
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:40:04 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Fire in the Mountain


I have a very simple rule of thumb for buying gas-powered equipment:

*****Buy whatever brand is available from a good local dealer******

This way, whether you repair it yourself when it breaks or if you want
someone else to do it, you have a reliable place nearby where parts are
readily available and people are familiar with the equipment.


To me, there is no point in buying, say, a Stihl chainsaw mail-order
because "everyone says it's the best" if you can't get parts and service
locally.

I used to sell and service two-cycle equipment, and there is not all
that much difference among the top name brands.  A bad dealer with good
equipment is much worse than a good dealer with a mediocre brand,
because the good dealer will make sure he takes care of you and that
your gas-powered widget is running well.

Andrew Cohill

-- 
|          ...we have to look for routes of power our teachers never       
|              imagined, or were encouraged to avoid.   T. Pynchon          
|                    
|Andrew Cohill        cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu            VPI&SU
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Green ponds (and other slimy things)
Date: 28 Jul 92 01:52:51 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota

In <1992Jul27.114520.12349@rchland.ibm.com> james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) writes:


>I have a small deep pond on my five acre property.  The pond is about 110 feet in
>diameter, and now probably 20 - 25 feet deep.  I think there is water in the
>pond, but you can't tell by looking at it.  It has a think green scum over it.

>Now I know that scummy ponds have been discussed before, and some wonderful
>solutions have been brought out. (ie: purple dyes, algicides, etc)  My problem
>seems to be just too much phosphates and nitrogen in the water.  This problem
>happened before I moved in when some heavy rains washed soil into the pond from
>some horse trails.
build a ditch around the pond to prevent this from recurring (it's be
a pity to have the pond cleaned and have a recurrance)

>Being that it is a small pond I have taken it upon myself to clean up the pond by
>pulling the green floating stuff out, and shoveling out the black silt layer
>exposed when the water receeds.
shock the pond to kill the algae, or drain it backhoe it, enlist fish
to clean it (but then the ones that do this are considered trash fish
and you'll need to remove them later). a variation on draining would 
be to lower the level to concentrate it (while having the exposed sides
dryout and easier to work) and accellerate the natural process.
mostly this just takes time to fix itself as a neighbor of mine can attest
i think it was 5-7 years for this problem to correct itself (with the help
of many minnows, tadpoles, etc. then stock with bass, etc later.

bill pociengel
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: kaufman@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Marc T. Kaufman)
Subject: Re: Green ponds (and other slimy things)
Reply-To: kaufman@CS.Stanford.EDU
Organization: CS Department, Stanford University, California, USA
Date: 27 Jul 92 15:26:21 GMT

james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) writes:

>[Re: algae in a pond]
>My problem seems to be just too much phosphates and nitrogen in the water.
>This problem happened before I moved in when some heavy rains washed soil
>into the pond from some horse trails.

>Being that it is a small pond I have taken it upon myself to clean up the
>pond by pulling the green floating stuff out, and shoveling out the black
>silt layer exposed when the water receeds.

>My wife laughs to see me doing this much work.  So my question is, does the
>collective intelligence here think that I will succeed, or will I just be
>setting myself up for long term back problems. 

I vote for the back problems.  I have a small fish pond (Koi) outdoors, with
similar problems.  You won't get rid of the algae until you get rid of the
excess nutrients.  You can harvest algae all you want, but as long as there
is food in the water, it will just grow back.

By the way, green water (that does not have anaerobic decomposition) seems
to be ideal for raising fish.  They don't mind at all, and the babies have
a place to hide.

The way to get rid of excess nitrogen on a continuing basis is to plant
OTHER plants that will use the nitrogen before the algae can bloom.  There
are lots of water garden folks (LilyPons, Tricker, Van Ness Water Gardens,
etc.) who can sell you hardy water lillies and bog plants that will do it.
See the back of any gardening magazine for ads.  It will take some time to
reestablish the balance, so be patient.
-- 
Marc Kaufman (kaufman@CS.Stanford.EDU)

Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: don@muff.webo.dg.com (Don Perkins)
Subject: Re: Sheep?
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 20:08:15 GMT
Reply-To: don@muff.webo.dg.com
Organization: NSDD, Data General Corp.

In article <1992Jul23.075211.10271@mr.med.ge.com>, hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
|> I am lending some pasture space to a neighbor of mine, as I wanted it cleared
|> (currently it is unoccupied) and he wanted to feed his sheep.  My question is
|> this:  How good is sheep 'manure' for gardening, etc?  Is it worth the effort,
|> or should it just stay in the pasture.
   Since sheep make such nice little 'berries', it would be a real task to pick up
   a significant quantity to use in your garden.  Better to leave them to improve
   your pasture.
|> 
|> Also, there are a lot of thistles in there, which he says they probably won't 
|> eat.  Will they eat them if I cut them down & they dry out?
   Not likely...
|> 
|> As he and I are both on the fire department, we had decided that whatever the
|> sheep don't eat we will burn on a drill-night, just for the exercise.  (pasture,
|> not sheep.)
   Sounds like a good way to get rid of the thistles...
|> 
|> Can anyone suggest low-maintainence, moderate-yeild critters to keep who would
|> not take more than an acre or two of pasture?  What and how many?  Thanks.
   Sheep.  How many depends on the quality of your pasture.
|> 
|> 
|> 
|> --
|> 
|> Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
|> hinz@picard.med.ge.com
|> 
|> 
Don P.
Keeper of sheep.
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon)
Subject: Re: dream situation
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 01:25:44 GMT

In <1992Jul23.214751.28585@col.hp.com> lpj@col.hp.com (Laura Johnson) writes:

>I said "of course one woodstove won't heat 6000 sq.ft."

>And bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon) writes:
>> 
>> ok enough is enough. a wood stove can heat every bit as much as any. any. any
>> other type of heater (size it correctly) wood heat is not a playfull thing.
>> it is a serious heating method to some of us. also i'd avoid electric heat,
>> for backup a long way from anywhere you'll want something which can survive
>> with a minimal amount of electricity, maybe even battery power. 
>> 

>Hey, I KNOW it's a serious heating method, but are you aware that
>6000 sq.ft.  is two to four times the size of a "normal" house?
>(And ten times the size of the cabin that the original poster is
>*actually* considering.) Look, you WOULDN'T heat that much area
>with one woodstove; you wouldn't even heat it with one gas furnace
>(you'd have two).  "Size it correctly" only goes so far.  
ok lets see what's in my basement.
hmmm one 1 furnace. yukon dual fuel (oil/wood).
ok now whats my 'house' hmmm 2 story, 4 big picture windows, walkout,
10" logs, 4 bedroom, 2 kitchens, 2.5 baths, 1 fireplace (yech, i need
an insert), unheated (kinda) breezeway, oh and 2 patio doors.
ummm thats ~3000 sq ft. mostly open to the nw across the field
(wind break in the growing).
fuel useage (2 adults 4 sm children, 2 refregerators, 1 deep freeze,
2 stove/ovens, 1 washer, no dryer, 1 microwave, 5 pc's, 2 printers)
 ~1kw/month for a 12 month period
 ~2-300 gals fuel oil
 ~4-5 cords of wood
 (this is higher than it was due to an infant in the house, and larger 
children going out to play in the winter)
the house has a serious builder defect (poor building techniques, i
am currently fixing many of his, uh shall we say poor desicions?
i know we loose a lot of heat out of poorly joined logs, and seams.
with the replacement of the LATEX caulk used to chink the logs
i know i can cut my heating in half!

>I agree with you about the electric backup if you're a long way from 
>anywhere. The original poster said "subdivision", so I was thinking of
>one of those little bitty mountain towns. I've lived in such towns and had
>less problem with electricity than I've had in cities. If the area she's
depends on the co-op

>looking at is really away from it all, then electric probably isn't the
>answer.

bill pociengel
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: Green ponds (and other slimy things)
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 28 Jul 92 02:42:53 GMT

bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu (Hari Seldon) writes:

>shock the pond to kill the algae, or drain it backhoe it, enlist fish
>to clean it (but then the ones that do this are considered trash fish
                                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>and you'll need to remove them later). 

I suppose that depends on who's doing the considering!

>i think it was 5-7 years for this problem to correct itself (with the help
>of many minnows, tadpoles, etc. then stock with bass, etc later.
                                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Assumptions, assumptions!  :-)

Robert Enenkel
(carp fanatic)