From: tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Subject: rec.pets.cats FAQ (part 1/2)
X-Last-Updated: 1992/08/31
Followup-To: poster
Summary: This is a periodically posted FAQ on the care and handling
         of cats.  It is in two parts.
Supersedes: <cats-faq/part1_713682012@athena.mit.edu>
Reply-To: tittle@ics.uci.edu
Organization: University of California at Irvine: ICS Dept.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 05:01:01 GMT
Expires: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 05:00:12 GMT

Archive-name: cats-faq/part1
Version: 1.5
Last-modified: 17 August 1992
Periodicity: 20 days

This is the first part of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) List
for rec.pets.cats.  It is posted every twenty days: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

Copies of both parts of this FAQ may be obtained by anonymous ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27) under
/pub/usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/*.  Or send email to
mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part1
send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part2

in the body of the message to have both parts emailed to you (leave
the subject line empty).

Changes indicated with |'s.



                              TABLE OF CONTENTS

   Prologue.

   I.  GETTING A CAT
       A.  What Kind of Cat?
       B.  Where?
       C.  Veterinarians.
       D.  Young Kittens.
       E.  Introducing Cats to Other Pets.
       F.  Handling Your Cat.

  II.  BASIC CAT CARE
       A.  Cat Food.
       B.  Diets.
       C.  Vegetarian Diets.
       D.  Litter.
       E.  Dental Care.
       F.  Trimming Claws.
       G.  Grooming.
       H.  Pills, Dosing, and Medication.
       I.  Worms.
       J.  Poisons.
       K.  Vaccination and Worming Schedule

 III.  HEALTH/MEDICAL
       A.  In General.
       B.  My Cat is Sick, Should I Take It To the Vet?
       C.  What is FUS?  FIV?  FeLV?  Diabetes?
       D.  Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP).
       E.  Skin Problems.
       F.  Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).
       G.  Toxoplasmosis (when you are pregnant and own a cat).
       H.  Vomiting.
       I.  Diarrhea.
       J.  Neutering.
       K.  Declawing.
       L.  Aging.

  VI.  PROBLEM BEHAVIORS (INSIDE)
       A.  In General.
       B.  Plants.
       C.  Spraying.
       D.  Scratching.
       E.  Housebreaking.
       F.  Escaping.
       G.  Drape/Curtain Climbing.
       H.  Cord (and Other) Chewing.
       I.  Biting.
       J.  Garbage.
       K.  Counters.
       L.  Early AM Wakeups.
       M.  Toilet Paper.
       N.  Splashing Water.
       O.  Ripping Carpet.

   V.  PROBLEM BEHAVIORS (OUTSIDE)
       A.  In General.
       B.  Noise.
       C.  Your Garden.
       D.  Local "Attack" Cats.
       E.  Your Birdfeeder.

  VI.  ENTERTAINMENT
       A.  Scratching Posts.
       B.  Catnip.
       C.  Other Toys.
       D.  Playing.

 VII.  CHANGING ENVIRONMENTS
       A.  A New Baby.
       B.  Travel.
       C.  International Travel.
       D.  Moving.
       E.  Vacations.
 
VIII.  OTHER TOPICS
       A.  Removing Urine Odor.
       B.  Cat Owner Allergies.
       C.  Cats and Water.
       D.  Indoor and Outdoor Cats.
       E.  Catching Feral Cats.
       F.  Finding a Home for a Cat.
       G.  Dealing with Landlords.
       H.  Pet Insurance.
       I.  Cat Genetics.
       J.  Bathing a Cat.
       K.  Cat Safety in the House.
       L.  Pet Identification.
       M.  Do All Cats Purr?
       N.  Other Cats in the Cat Family.

  IX.  REFERENCES
       A.  Electronic Mailing Lists.
       B.  Literary.
       C.  Books.
       D.  Articles.
       E.  Catalogues.



Prologue.

Rec.pets.cats is a newsgroup devoted to domestic feline issues.  The
group has been characterized as friendly and helpful.  Flamewars are
limited to two, possibly three, topics: cats on vegetarian diets,
declawing cats, and sometimes whether to keep cats indoor only or
allow them outdoors as well.  New readers are advised against starting
these topics up.  The facts pertaining to each of those topics, as
well as many others, are in this document.

This newsgroup was formed in the summer of 1991.  It is a splinter
groups from rec.pets, which originally carried the feline topics.  Adi
Inbar and others initially proposed the split, and Inbar collected the
votes, which proved enough for its official creation.

My thanks to Robin Bush for providing the initial push to put this FAQ
together.  My thanks also to the following people who contributed
topics and material to put this FAQ together: Annick Ansselin, Rona
Bailey, Kathy Beatty, Sally C. Bemus, Jon Berger, Lisa Berkenbilt,
Harlan B.  Braude, Robin Bush, Jack Campin, Barbara Carlson, Teresa
C.D.  Carstensen, Mark Chadwick, Catharine Chalek, Paul Chapin, Gayle
Chidester, Janet Christian, Linda Cornell, Ruth Croxford, Carol C.
Denehy, Diana (CatWoman), Jean Marie (Ambar) Diaz, Denise DiGiovanni,
Debbie Douglass, Pam Draper, Dick Dunn, Ann-Cathrin Englund, Karen
Fegley, Jamie Ferguson, Cristina Ferla, Ted Feuerbach, Sandy Fifer,
Chris Galas, Michael Gemar, Sally George, Michael Gerlek, Margaret D.
Gibbs, Diane Gibson, W.K. Gorman, Jerome Grimmer, D. Dale Gulledge,
Pam Hassell, Ceci Henningsson/Klussmann, Marsha Jo Hanna, Patty
Hansen, Vicki Holzhauer, Sharon Hope, Stephen Hutchinson, Marianne S.
Jocha, Jennifer L.  Johnson, Valerie Johnston, Kate (and Ebony),
Teresa C.  Kelly, Joyce L.  King, Ms. Kitty, Kay Klier, Eunyoung Koh,
David Kosenko, Jon Krueger, Karen Kruger, Amy Kurtzman, Angi Lamb,
Kristen Lepa, Dave Libershal, Ann Lindstrom, Betty R. Lipkin, Joann
Loos, Sandra Loosemore, Terry Lundgren, Bill McCormick, Rudolph T.
Maceyko, Steven Matheson, Chris Mauritz, merle@unx.sas.com, Debbie
Millard, Carol Miller-Tutzauer, Anne P.  Mitchell, Pauline M.  Muggli,
Linda Mui, Carla Oexmann, Didi Pancake, Jeff Parke, Pamela
Pincha-Wagener, Randy Price, Lisa Purvis, Thomas Oats, Steve
Reinhardt, Elisabeth Riba, Aristea Rizakos, Gary Sarff, Jane
Schreiber, Jen Schmidt, Deb Schwartz, Elizabeth Schwartz, Paul Silver,
Maureen Smith, Michele Smith, Steve Snyder, Debbie Spark, Paul
Spencer, Catharine (Cat) Stanton, Larisa Stephan, Lon Stowell, Cyndie
Sutherland, Lilly Tao, vandykt@kepler.me.orst.edu, John Werner,
Christine White, Robyn E.  Williamson, Jean Wilson, Julie Wolfenden,
Pamela Blalock Wybieracki, Frank Yellin, Rich Young, and Cindy
Zimmerman.

Extra thanks to Jon Krueger for extensive editorial comments.

I.  GETTING A CAT

A.  What Kind of Cat?

There are many kinds of cats, but cats are unlike dogs in that the
amount of variation in breeds is small.  There are some (occasionally
stereotypic) characteristics of some breeds, such as Siamese cats
being noisy and Maine Coon cats being big and friendly.  By and large,
however, cats will vary independently of their pedigree in
temperament.

Some people wonder whether they should get a kitten or an older cat.
There are advantages with older cats.  Kittens require more care and
watching over, they may not have the litter box down yet, and they go
through a wild phase at around 6 months of age when they are
unstoppable bundles of energy.  Since kittens are terminally cute,
prospective cat owners often choose a kitten for a new cat.
Nevertheless, do not overlook the benefits of an adult cat.

Many people recommend getting two cats instead of one.  A single cat
can get lonely and bored.  Two cats keep each other company,
especially during the day while you're away.  They tend to get into
less trouble.  And they're fun to watch together.

B.  Where?

1.  Animal shelters

The animal shelter is a good place to pick up a cat and save it from
death in the bargain.  Look for a clean, healthy cat.  Look for signs
of friendliness and liveliness.  Talk with the people caring for the
animals for any information on a particular animal they can give you.

2. Private parties

People who have unplanned litters will advertise their kittens in the
paper.  These can be another good source.

3.  Breeders

If you plan to show your cat, find a reputable breeder.  Do not use
newspaper recommendations.  Attend cat shows instead and talk to the
owners there.  Or look for breeder advertisements in magazines like
Cat Fancy.  When you meet breeders, look for people that seem more
concerned with the welfare of their cats than the amount of money
they're making.  Look for ones raising the kittens "underfoot" and
around people.

4.  Pet Stores

Don't buy pet store animals.  These are often obtained from
"kitten mills", where animals are poorly treated and bred
(and bred and bred) for profit.  By buying from the store, you
are supporting these mills and adding to the pet population problem.
Pet store employees are commonly instructed to tell customers
that the kittens were obtained from private parties.  It is further
suggested that you don't even patronize such stores.  Take your
business to stores that sell pet supplies only, no puppies or kittens.  


C.  Veterinarians.

1.  Why you must have a vet

Before you even bring your new cat home, take it to the vet you have
already selected.  Never, never, never get a cat without prior
budgeting for vet visits.  Do not think that you can get a cat and
never see the vet.  Annual shots and examinations are a must for
keeping your cat healthy.  If you cannot afford veterinary care for a
cat, you should not get one.  Normal veterinary care: yearly shots and
boosters, initial tests for worms, and examination for typical
diseases as needed will run about US$100 a year.  This, of course,
depends on your vet and on the health of your cat.  Preventive and
consistent care is less expensive in the long run.

2.  Choosing a vet

Choose a vet who you are comfortable with and who will answer your
questions.  Check out the office: do animals seem just frightened or
are they also out of control?  Is it bedlam, or reasonable for the
number of different animals there?  Do you have local recommendations
from friends?  Does the vet specialize in small animals as opposed
to, say, livestock?

3.  24 hour emergency care

A good vet will either be associated with a 24 emergency care plan or
be able to give you the number of a good place in your area.  Keep
this number on your refrigerator and check with your vet when you
visit that it's still up-to-date.

4.  Fecal samples

Any time you bring your cat to the vet, try to bring a fresh fecal
sample.  Put a small, fingernail-sized sample into a plastic bag, or
ask your vet for a supply of fecal samplers.  The vet cannot always
get a fecal sample from the cat, and this saves you extra trips to
return the sample and then bring the cat in if the tests are positive.

5.  Cat reactions

Cats largely dislike being taken to the vet.  They hate riding in the
car, and the smell of fear and other animals in the office will
further distress them.  Get a pet carrier.  A plain cardboard one will
do for infrequent trips; get a stronger fiberglass one for more travel
or destructive cats. Carriers keep your cat under control at the vet's
and prevent accidents in the car en route.

6.  Further steps

From kittenhood, accustom your cat to being handled.  Look into its
ears (clean, white and light pink), eyes (clear, no runniness, inner
eyelids may blink but should remain open), nose (clean and pink (or
its normal color) and mouth (clean, light pink gums) regularly.  Hold
it still and look at its anus; pick up its paws and look at the pads
and claws.  This will have the added benefit that you will notice any
changes from normal quickly and be able to call up your vet if
something is wrong.

Do arrange for the kitten to meet plenty of people; this will
socialize your cat and it will not hide from people when adult.

7.  Fleas and ticks

Actually, you can have fleas and ticks in your home even without
pets.  But having pets does increase the odds you will have to deal
with either or both of these pests.  There is a FAQ on fleas and
ticks available via ftp to pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27) under
pub/usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks or if you do not have ftp access,
send email to mail-server@pit-manager.mit.edu with "send
usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks" in the subject line (leave the body
empty).


D.  Young Kittens.

They need shots for distemper, rabies, FVRCP (Feline Viral
Rhinotracheitis, Calici, Panleukopenia -- various respiratory
diseases) and tetanus at an early age.  They should also be tested for
Feline Leukemia and given vaccinations for that, especially if they
will come into contact with other cats.  Generally, a very young cat
doesn't need the full run of an entire house.  Use your judgement, but
leaving it in one room until it is a little older can save both of you
some anxiety.  A kitten will need a different diet than an adult; most
brands of cat food will give you "kitten food" versions.  

Ideally, kittens should not be separated from their mother until they
are at least 8 weeks old. In other countries, such as Sweden, the
recommendation is that the kittens be at least 10 and ideally 12 weeks
old before separation.  This has to do with getting passive immunity
from the mother's milk and psychological readiness to leave the
litter.

Most kittens will understand how to use the litter box.  Usually their
mother teaches them, but they will pick it up easily on their own.  If
you have a too-young cat, you can teach it by confining it to one room
so that access to the litter box is easy and putting it in the litter
box after feeding.

You might wind up with kittens too young to have been separated from
their mother for whatever reason.  Consult your vet for advice and
help.  You will need to provide a warm draft-free area and use
something like KMR (kitten milk replacement) for food, using an
eyedropper.

E.  Introducing Cats to Other Pets.

You may need to introduce a cat to other pets.  The key to this is
patience.  It may take several weeks to a month to achieve desired
results; it may take overnight.  Do not give up and don't lose your
temper.

It depends on the temperament and ages of the animals involved.  In
most cases, you can simply introduce them, let them work it out, and
after a week or so, things are fine.  However, sometimes this is a
lengthy process that you will have to work through.  In general,
this will work:

  Put the cat in its own room, where the original pet can smell it,
  but not see it. After a day or so of this, remove the cat from the
  room and let the original pet smell and explore the room thoroughly.
  Put the cat back in.  Depending on the reactions involved, let the
  cat out and meet the original pet under supervision.  If there is
  some hostility, separate them while you are gone until you are
  certain that they get along.  It is best if you can arrange a 
  "retreat" for each animal.

You can modify the length of time and amount of supervision as you see
how two cats react.  Some forms of cat playing can appear hostile but
are not.  Look at the ears for a clue (standing up or forward when
grappling is trouble, flat back when standing and staring is also
trouble).  If the fighting immediately stops when one yelps or
squeaks, they're OK.

A puppy introduced to a cat will quickly view it as another sort of
dog and leave it alone or, more often, want to play with it.  The cat
will view the dog as a nuisance for some time, but will eventually
learn to ignore it or even to play with it.  Introducing a kitten to
an older dog will depend on the dog's temperament.  Many dogs are good
with cats, such as Labs or Newfies, and will present no problems
whatsoever.  Other dogs may need to be taught to leave the kitten
alone.  Soon enough, the kitten will be able to get up out of the
dog's reach when it wants to be left alone.  Providing the cat with a
place the dog can't get to is always helpful.  This can be achieved by
placing a childproof fence in the door of a room high enough for the
cat to get under but not for the dog.  Do trim the cat's claws to
minimize damage to the dog's nose.

According to humane society studies, some combinations of
animals that tend to work best:

  * two kittens
  * a mature kitten and a puppy
  * a pair of mature neutered animals
  * two cats
  * two dogs

The humane society discourages introducing a male cat into a household
of two or more female cats.  Even if all the animals are neutered, you
could have problems.  Never try to introduce two un-neutered male
cats.  Female animals tend to be more gracious toward any newcomer,
especially if they are spayed.  Introducing a puppy or kitten into a
household with an elderly animal already present can be stressful to
the older animal.

F.  Handling Your Cat.

1.  Normally

Never lift your cat up by the scruff of the neck, even when it is a
kitten.  Leave that to the mother cat.  When you pick up a cat,
support its hind legs with one hand and hold the chest with the other
hand.  This is a stable position that affords the cat some purchase
with its feet.  In general, let go of a cat when it wants down; by
doing so you teach it that being held is not being trapped and you
will soon have a cat that does not mind being held.  (Laps work the
same way; don't try and hold a cat to your lap and it will eventually
enjoy lying there.)

2.  To restrain it

Sometimes you will want to restrain it.  There are a number of ways to
do this, but most of them focus on keeping the claws out of your way
and require a helping hand.

You can lay the cat on its sides and hold each set of legs with each
hand.  Elevate the legs slightly (as if you were rolling it on its
back).  You may need to watch for biting.  Roll your hand or arm under
its chin to prevent this.  This may loosen the grip on the front
claws; you'll have to decide which presents more danger.  A helper can
now look at the cat.

You can wrap the cat in a towel (but this presents difficulties if you
want to get at part of the cat covered by the towel).

You can utilize the reflex triggered by firmly holding the scruff of
its neck (do NOT lift it up!).  This will cause most cats to sit very
still, but may not be sufficient for some cats or for high stress
situations.

You can also get a cardboard cat carrier and (if possible) put the cat in
the carrier and brace the carrier against your knees.  The cat will back up
to the corner in the carrier; grasp the cat firmly on the nape of the neck
and hold on (if someone can help you, have the person grasp the nape and
the butt of the cat, holding it in the box).


II.  BASIC CAT CARE

A.  Cat Food.

1. Premium cat food
  
Although more expensive than average brands, these foods are often
better for your cat.  They are low-bulk, which means that cats will
digest more of the food, thus eating and eliminating less.  They
contain little or no dyes, which can be important if your cat vomits
regularly (easier to clean up); probably also good from a diet
viewpoint.

Examples of these kind of brands include Hill's Science Diet, Iams,
Wysong, Nature's Recipe (Optimum Feline), and Purina (One).  These
foods are also beneficial for the cats coats and many readers have
attested to their cat's silky fur on these diets.

2. Cat food composition
  
The Guaranteed Crude analysis provides more nutrition info than you
can get on the vast majority of human foods.  If you want more, ask
the vendor.  E.g. Purina is 800-345-5678.  Any major commercial cat
food is formulated with either natural ingredients (including meat
byproducts which supply nutrients to cats that meat itself doesn't
since cats in the wild eat the whole animal) or are supplemented with
the required nutrients to make them balanced diets for cats.

3.  Wet foods

Canned foods contain quite a bit of water.  It is expensive. Tartar
build-up may be a problem.  Smell (of the food, the cat's breath, or
the cat's feces) and gas may be a problem.  The food can spoil
quickly.  The dishes will have to be washed every day.  Stools will be
softer.  On the other hand, cats that have medical conditions
requiring higher water intake may benefit from the water in these
products.

4.  Dry foods

Cats will require more water on this kind of diet, but tartar-buildup
may be lessened as a result of crunching on the kibble.  Generally
less expensive and less smelly.  Dishes will remain clean and food
will not build up nor spoil quickly.  Stools will be firmer.

5.  Moist foods

These are "soft kibble".  The benefits are difficult to ascertain.
They are more appealing to humans than anything else.  There is no
anti-tartar benefit and not much difference from canned food.  They
|are fairly expensive.  Some are actually bad for your cat: proylene
|glycol found in these products (as a preservative) can damage red
|blood cells and sensitize the cats to other things as well.  (Source:
|August 1992 edition of _Cats Magazine_.)

6.  Snack foods

Many snack products are out there for cats.  Most are fine as
supplemental feeding, but of course they should never take place of
regular food.  In addition, these products can be useful in training.

7.  Milk

Most adult cats are lactose intolerant and drinking milk will give
them diarrhea.  Otherwise, milk is a nutritious snack.

Cream is even better than milk -- most cats can handle the butterfat
just fine and it's good for them.  A small serving of cream will
satisfy the cat more than a saucer of milk and will contain less
lactose.

8.  Homemade Food.

Check Frazier's _The New Natural Cat_.  She gives a number of recipies
and general information on making your own catfood and on what foods
are good for sick cats.

A number of cat books contain recipies for making your own
supplemental snack food.  These can be fun to make and give to your
cat.

9.  "People Food."

It is a poor idea to feed cats table scraps or food from your own
meals.  First, table scraps do not meet your cat's nutritional needs
and only add unneeded calories or undigestibles to its diet.  Second,
you risk having your cat become a major nuisance when you are eating.
Stick with prepared cat treats.  Any food you give it should be placed
in its food dish, or you can give it treats as long as you are not
eating or preparing your own food.

That said, there is a pretty wide variety of food that cats will eat
and enjoy.  Rec.pets.cats abounds with "weird food" stories ranging
from peanut butter to marshmallows.

10.  "Cat Grass."

Cats benefit from some vegetable matter in their diet.  When devouring
prey, the intestines, along with anything in them, will also be eaten.
Many owners grow some grass for their cats to munch on, both for a
healthy diet, and to distract them from other household plants!

In general, seeds that are OK to grow and give to your cats (but do
not use treated seeds, identifiable by a dyed red, blue or awful green
color): oats (cheap, easy, big), wheat (not wheatgrass) Japanese
barnyard millet, bluegrass, fescue, rye (but beware of ergot, which is
a fungal infection and produces LSD-like chemicals), ryegrass (annual
ryegrass is cheap and easy to grow, but small), alfalfa sprouts or
bean sprouts in SMALL amounts (these have anti- protein compounds that
reduce the protein value of other things fed to the animal (or
human!)).

Seeds that are NOT okay: sorghum or sudangrass, which have cyanogenic
glycosides, and can cause cyanide poisoning.  These are commonly found
in bird seed and look like smallish white, yellow, orangish, or
reddish BB's, or the shiny black, yellow or straw colored glumes may
be intact.

11.  Dog food

Dog food is not suitable for cats since it does not have the correct
balance of nutrients.  Cats need much more fat and protein than dogs
do.

B.  Diets.

You can feed your cat in one of two ways.  One is to put down a set
amount of food at specific times of the day.  This is necessary if the
food will spoil (canned food, for example) or if your cat will
overeat.  Some cats *do* overeat, do not be surprised if this is your
situation.  Put it on a fixed schedule to avoid weight problems.  Do
*not* assume a cat will only eat what it needs: if it starts putting
on too much weight (check with your vet), give it two feedings a day,
putting down half the recommended daily amount each time.  The other
(called "free-feeding") is to leave food available all the time.  The
food must be dry to avoid spoilage.  There is no preference between
the two; it will depend on your cat and the food you give it.

You may need to change your cat's diet for any number of reasons.
Often, you will find that your cat refuses the new food.  Don't worry.
Leave food out and keep it fresh until your cat is hungry enough to
eat it.  Your cat will not be harmed by several days of low food
intake: as a carnivore, it is biologically adapted to going without
food for several days between kills.  If you give in to its refusal to
eat the provided food, your cat has just trained *you* to feed it what
it wants.

If you have multiple cats, and one of them requires special food (from
medical to weight-loss diets), then you must go to a fixed feeding
schedule to ensure that that cat not only gets the food, but doesn't
get any other food.  If you have been free-feeding, switch them over.
Don't put out any food in the morning; in the evening, put out the
dishes and supervise the cats.  They will most likely be hungry and
eat most of the food.  Take the dishes up after 1/2 hour or so and
wait until morning.  Remain on the morning/night- or even just night-
scheduled feedings and your cats will adapt quickly enough.  If you
have trouble with one cat finishing quickly and going over to feed on
other cats' food, you will have to put them in separate rooms while
feeding.

C.  Vegetarian Diets.

Cats require the aminosulfonic acid taurine, which is unavailable in
natural vegetable except for trace concentrations in some plant
sources like pumpkin seeds; not enough to do a cat any good.  Lack of
taurine can cause blindness or even death by cardiomyopathy.  There
are also a few other similar nutrients, such as arachidonic acid (a
fatty acid only found in animals), but taurine is the most widely
known.

Some small manufacturers claim to have produced synthetically-based
supplements that when combined with an appropriately balanced
all-vegetable diet will provide the complete nutrition required by
cats.

No one has been able to find studies which demonstrate that cats which
eat such a diet over the long term stay healthy.

Some references are included in the Articles section.

D.  Litter.

1. Kinds of Litter

There are various kinds of litter available.  The traditional clay
based litter is the most common.  This is composed of clay particles
that will absorb urine.  In general, you need to scoop out solid
matter regularly, and change the litter entirely once a week or so.
Variations on clay particles include green pellets (resembling rabbit
food) or shredded cedar (like hamster bedding).

There is a new kind of (expensive) cat litter available that
solidifies urine into little balls.  This way, the urine can be
scooped out along with the feces.  In theory, you never need to change
the litter again, you only add a little more to replace the loss to
cleaning out the urine and feces (which offsets the initial cost).
Sometimes the clumps break apart and there are some "extra strong"
varieties to address this problem.  The litter is sandy and tracks
rather easily.  Some cats seem to develop diarrhea with this litter;
some people are rather allergic to the very fine dust from this type
of litter.

There is a non-sandy clumping litter called "Booda's Ultra Clump"; a
drawback includes the clumps sticking to the pan itself (baking soda,
pan liners, or small amounts of sandy clumping litter will remedy
this).  But it eliminates the tracking problems of the sandy kind of
clumping litter.  (It looks like regular clay-based litter.)

4060 grade sandblasting grit made out of corncobs is an inexpensive
alternative to clay-based clumping litter.  It clumps as well as the
flushable kind of clumping litter, and also smells better.  It isn't
available in all areas.  In Ohio, The Anderson's General Store chain
carries it for around US$10 for a 50 lb.  bag, comparable to plain
clay-based litter.

There is also a style of coarse corncob litter (commonly sold as
"animal bedding and litter" by pet suppliers) about the size of peas.
This is used in conjunction with a litter pan that has a screen and a
drain pan underneath, into which the urine drains (and feces are
removed as normal).  It is almost completely dust free, unlike
clay-based litters.

There is also "Good Mews."  It is pelletized organic cellulose fiber
("scented with cedar oil--a natural flea and tick repellent").  It
absorbs up to 1-1/2 its weight in water.  According to reports, it is
not dusty, sweeps up/cleans up easily, does not track, and does not
cling to the tray when moist.

There is at least one brand of litter that is intended for multiple
cat households.  This is Max Cat's Multi Cat.  Reports are that it
pretty much works as advertised.  This is a clay-based litter.  Another
way to control strong ammonia smells is to mix baking soda in with the
litter.

Some cats seem to prefer certain kinds of litter over others, you may
need to experiment.

3.  Disposal

When disposing of litter, it is best to wrap it up in two bags and tie
securely, for the benefit of the garbage collectors.  For disposal of
solid matter, it is best to put it in the trash in a bag as well.
Some people flush solid matter, but be aware that septic tanks will
not do well with clay litter pieces (even the small amount clinging to
scooped items).  Clumping litter is supposed to be flushable, except
with septic tanks.

Do not use kitty litter as a fertilizer in your garden.  It is not a
manure since cats are not vegetarians and should not be used as such.
It can be incredibly stinky, can attract neighborhood cats, and
there's a chance that it would be unhealthy for your plants and for
you (if you eat fruits/vegetables which were fertilized by it).  Keep
in mind that when an outdoor cat "uses" your garden, it usually
varies its poop-place and so there's not a concentration of feces,
whereas if you dump litter, it's usually concentrated in a single
spot.

4.  Litter boxes

Cats can be fussy about the cleanliness of their litter box.  Many
people scoop solid matter out on a daily basis.  If a cat is
displeased with the litter box for a variety of reasons ranging from
cleanliness to the type of litter used, it may well select another
spot in your house more to its liking!

Litter boxes are shallow plastic pans.  Some cats have a tendency to
scatter litter outside the box when they bury their stool.  This can
be solved by getting a cover for the cat box, commonly available at
pet stores.  Another way to minimize litter tracking is to put a rug,
especially a soft rubber one, just outside the litter box.

For easier litter-changing, some owners will use litter box liners.
Some cats rip these while burying their feces; if the problem
persists, just don't use liners.

To contain litter tracked outside the box, it is often worthwhile to
put the litter pan in a larger shallow cardboard box that will collect
most of the litter stuck to the cat's paw pads when it jumps out.
Keep the area around the litter box as clean and free from spilled
litter as you can.  This helps the cat distinguish from outside and
inside the litter box.  Guess what can happen if this distinction is
not clear.

If you have multiple cats you may have to put out several litterboxes.
If you have a young cat and a large house, you will either need to
place several litterboxes down so that there will be one near enough
at any point or you will have to confine the young cat to an area of
the house within easy reach of the litter box.

Disinfect the the litter box and top (if any) on a regular basis to
prevent illness and disease.  Bleach is a good disinfectant around
cats, although you should be sure to rinse thoroughly and air out all
the fumes.  Do NOT use pine-oil based cleaners as these are toxic to
cats.

5.  Toilets

It is possible to train a cat to use the toilet rather than a litter
box.  One book is _How to Toilet Train Your Cat: 21 days to a
litter-free home_ by Paul Kunkel, published by Workman Publishing, 708
Broadway, New York, NY 10003, and simultaneously published in Canada
by Thomas Allen and Son Publishing (no address given).  ISBN no.
0-89480-828-1.  Cost, $5.95.

The cat must be well trained to the litter box first.  Move the litter
box into the bathroom next to the toilet.  Little by little (2 inches
every two days) raise the litter box until the bottom of the litter
box is at the level of the toilet (seat down, lid raised).  Then
slowly move the litter box over to the top of the toilet.  This
accustoms the cat to jumping UP to the toilet to eliminate.  When the
cat is comfortable with this, cover the toilet (under the seat) with
strong plastic wrap like Saran wrap and fill the middle with litter.
Decrease the amount of litter until the cat is peeing into the plastic
and then make a hole in the middle of the plastic so the cat gets used
to the sound of urine and stool hitting the water.  Sooner or later
you eliminate the plastic.

6.  Placement of litter box

Beyond making the litter box readily accessible to your cat, there is
some consideration as to an aesthetically pleasing placement.  Utility
closets that the cat can always access are useful.  Laundry rooms work
well, bathrooms less well (especially in guest bathrooms).  One
suggestion was to build a chest with an entrance at one end big enough
to contain the cat box.  The chest can be displayed like furniture and
yet be discreet.  If you can't build a chest yourself, it should be
relatively easy to saw an opening in the side of a pre-made chest.


E.  Dental Care.

1.  Tartar buildup

Cats, like humans, have tartar buildup on their teeth called plaque.
An accumulation of plaque can lead to peridontal (gum) problems, and
the eventual loss of teeth.  Plaque is a whitish-yellow deposit.  Cats
seem to accumulate plaque primarily on the exterior face of their
upper teeth.  Reddened gum lines can indicate irritation from plaque.

Some cats are more prone to plaque buildup than others. Some never
need dental care, others need to have their teeth cleaned at regular
intervals.  Many vets encourage you to bring your cat in annually for
teeth cleaning, using a general anesthetic.  The cost, which can be
considerable, and the risk of the anesthesia itself are both good
incentives for doing some cat dental care at home.

What you can do: 

  Brush your cat's teeth once a week.  Use little cat toothbrushes, or
  soft child-size toothbrushes, and edible cat toothpaste (available
  at most vets or pet stores). Cats often hate to have their teeth
  brushed, so you may have to use a bathtowel straightjacket and a
  helper.  If you are skilled and have a compliant cat, you can clean
  its teeth using the same type of tool the human dentist does.

2.  Smelly breath

If your cat has smelly breath, there are various possible causes.

  * Teething: at about 6 months of age, cats will lose their baby
    teeth and get permanent ones.  If the gums are red and puffy and
    you can see the points of teeth breaking through here and there,
    the cat is just teething and the odor will subside as the teeth
    come in.

  * Gingivitus: if the gums appear red and puffy and you've ruled
    teething out, your cat may have a gum infection of some sort.
    Take the cat to the vet.

  * Diet: certain foods, usually canned foods or prescription foods,
    can make your cat's breath smell.  If possible, try changing your
    cat's diet.

  * Abscessed tooth: may show no symptoms other than smelly breath.
    Drooling sometimes occurs in conjunction.  The cat must be taken
    to the vet to have the abscess drained and possibly the teeth
    involved removed.  If this is not done, the infection can easily
    spread to the sinuses and cause the face to swell, especially just
    under the eyes.

F.  Trimming Claws.

As an alternative to declawing and to help stem the destruction from
scratching, many cat owners keep their cats' claws trimmed.  This is
easiest if you start from the beginning when your cat is a kitten,
although most cats can be persuaded to accept this procedure.

Use nail clippers available at pet stores.  Look for the guillotine
type (don't use the human variety, this will crush and injure your
cat's claw) and get blade replacements as the sharper the blade is the
easier this procedure is.

There are also clippers that look like scissors with short, hooked
blades.  These may be easier for some people to handle.

Set your cat down securely in the crook of your "off" arm, with the
cat either in your lap or on the floor between your knees, depending
on the size of your cat and your own size.  Pin the cat to your side
with your arm and hold one of its paws with your hand (this is
sometimes a little much for an "off" arm, you may wish to practice).

With its back away from you, it cannot scratch you, or easily get
away.  With your "good" hand, hold the clippers.  If you squeeze your
cat's paw with your off hand, the claws will come out.  Examine them
carefully (you may want to do this part before actually trying to trim
them, to familiarize yourself with how the claws look).  

If the claws are white (most cat's are), the difference between the
nail and the quick is easy to see (use good lighting).  The quick will
be the pink tissue visible within the nail of the claw at the base.
This is comparable to the difference between the nail attached to your
skin and the part that grows beyond it.  DO NOT CUT BELOW THE QUICK.
It will be painful to your cat and bleed everywhere.  When in doubt,
trim less of the nail.  It will just mean trimming more often.  

Clip the portion above the quick for each nail and don't forget the
dewclaws.  On cats, dewclaws are found only on the front paws, about
where humans would have their thumbs -- they do not touch the ground.
Some cats are polydactyl, and have up to seven claws on any paw.  
Normally there are four claws per paw, with one dewclaw on each of 
the front paws.  Rear claws don't need to be trimmed as often or at 
all; they do not grow as quickly and are not as sharp.  You should be 
able to hold any of the four paws with your off hand; it will become 
easier with practice.

If you have too much trouble holding the cat still for this, enlist
someone else to help.  You can then pick up a paw and go for it.  Be
careful; this position often means you are in front of its claws and a
potential target for shredding.  Older cats generally object more than
younger ones; this means you should start this procedure as soon as
you get your cat if you intend to do this.

Trimming claws should be done weekly.  Different claws grow at
different rates; check them periodically (use the same position you
use for clipping: it gives you extra practice and reduces the cat's
anxiety at being in that position).

Claws grow constantly, like human nails.  Unlike human nails, however,
to stay sharp, claws must shed outer layers of nail.  Cats will pull
on their claws or scratch to remove these layers.  This is perfectly
normal and is comparable to humans cutting and filing their own nails.
You may see slices of claws lying around, especially on scratching
posts; this is also quite normal.

G.  Grooming.

Start early with your cat.  The younger it is when you begin grooming
it, the more pleasant grooming will be for it.  A cat that fights
grooming may need sedation and shaving at the vets for matted fur; it
is well worth the time to get your cat to at least tolerate grooming.
Start with short sessions.  Stick to areas that it seems to enjoy
(often the top of the head and around the neck) first, and work your
way out bit by bit.  Experiment a bit (and talk with your vet) to find
the brush and routine that seems to work best with your cat.  Even
short-hair cats benefit from grooming: they still shed a surprising
amount of hair despite its length.

1.  Thick, long fur

Inexpensive pin-type (not the "slicker" type) dog brushes work well.
You may choose to followup with a metal comb; if you use a flea comb,
you will also detect any fleas your cat may have.

2.  Silky long fur

Soft bristle brushes work well.

3.  Short hair

Try an all-rubber brush, often sold as kitten or puppy brushes.

H.  Pills, Dosing and Medication.

1.  Methods

Kneel on floor and put cat between knees (cat facing forwards).  Cross
your ankles behind so cat can't escape backwards; press your knees
together so cat can't escape forwards.  Make sure your cat's front
legs are tucked in between your knees so it can't claw you.  Put the
palm of your hand on top of its head and thumb and index finger on
either side of its mouth; the mouth will fall open as you tilt the
head back.  You may wish to stop at this point and use a flashlight to
examine the cat's mouth to see what you are doing.  You want to drop
the pill in on *top* of the tongue as far *back* as you can.  Keep the
head tilted back, hold its mouth closed, and stroke its throat until
pill is swallowed.  Then let your cat escape.

Another trick is to buy a bottle of gelatin capsules.  Take the
capsule apart, dump the contents, put the pill in the empty capsule
(in pieces if it won't otherwise fit) and reassemble the two capsule
halves.  Some places, especially natural food stores, will sell empty
gelatin capsules, try and get size "00".  This makes the
administration of small pills much easier, and can also allow you to
give more than one pill at one time, if they're sufficiently small.
The capsule itself just dissolves away harmlessly.  Do NOT use
capsules which have been filled with any other substance but plain
gelatin, since the residue may not agree with your pet!

You can try babyfood as a deception: get some pureed baby food meat,
dip your finger in the jar, and sort of nestle the pill in the baby
food.  Offer it to your cat and it may lick it up.  Be warned, some
cats are very good at licking up everything BUT the pill.

To administer liquid medication if the cat will not lick it up: use
the same procedure for pilling, but (using a needle-less syringe that
you can obtain from your vet) squirt the medicine down its throat
instead of dropping the pill.  Cats do not choke on inhaled liquids
like humans because they rarely breath through their mouths.
    
Cats can vomit easily, so keep an eye on them for a while after
they've been dosed: it's not impossible that they'll run off to a
corner and upchuck the medicine.  Giving them a pet treat after dosage
may help prevent this.

If your cat has an affected *area* that you must clean or swab or
otherwise handle, try this strategy, especially if the cat is
uncooperative:

Start with lots of handling.  At first don't handle the affected area,
at all or for long.  Gradually increase the amount of handling of the
affected area.  Move closer to it day by day, spend more time near it
or on it.  Talk to the cat while you're handling it.  At the same time
you're handling the affected area, pet the cat in an area it likes to
be handled.  After handling the affected area, praise the cat, pet the
cat, give the cat a food treat, do things the cat likes.

As long as the medical problem you're treating isn't acute, don't
restrain the cat to apply treatment.  Gradually working up to a
tolerable if not pleasant approach is much better in the long run.

If you must restrain the cat, grab the fur on the back of the neck
with one hand, holding the head down, and clean/medicate with the
other hand.  Have your vet show you how.  Sometimes wrapping the
cat in a towel helps too.

I.  Worms.

This information is condensed from Taylor.

  * Roundworms: can cause diarrhea, constipation, anemia, potbellies,
    general poor condition.  They are present in the intestines and
    feed on the digesting food.  

  * Whipworms and threadworms: fairly rare, can cause diarrhea, loss
    of weight, or anemia.  Whipworms burrow into the large intestine;
    threadworms into the small.  Both may cause internal bleeding.

  * Hookworms: can cause (often bloody) diarrhea, weakness and anemia.
    They enter through the mouth or the skin and migrate to the small
    intestine.

  * Tapeworms: look for small "rice grains" or irritation around the
    anus. They live in the intestines and share the cat's food.

  * Flukes: can cause digestive upsets, jaundice, diarrhea, or anemia.
    They are found in the small intestine, pancreas and bile ducts.

If you suspect worms in your cat, take it (and a fresh fecal sample)
to the vet.  Do not try over the counter products: you may not have
diagnosed your cat correctly or correctly identified the worm and
administer the wrong remedy.  In addition, your vet can give you
specific advice on how to prevent reinfestation.

General tips on preventing worm infestation: stop your cat from eating
wild life; groom regularly; keep flea-free; keep bedding clean; and
get regular vet examination for worms.

J.  Poisons.

The information in this section is mostly condensed from Carlson &
Giffins.  The list of poisons is not intended to be conclusive.  Nor
are the treatments intended to be sufficient: call your vet in the
event of any internal poisoning.

1.  Treatment after ingestion

To induce vomiting in cats:
   * Hydrogen peroxide 3% (most effective): One teaspoon every ten minutes;
     repeat three times.
   * One-fourth teaspoonful of salt, placed at the back of the tongue.
   * Syrup of Ipecac (one teaspoonful per ten pounds of body weight).

Do NOT induce vomiting when the cat 
   * has swallowed an acid, alkali, solvent, heavy duty cleaner, 
     petroleum product, tranquilizers, or a sharp object
   * is severely depressed or comatose
   * swallowed the substance more than two hours ago

You will also want to coat the digestive tract and speed up
elimination to help rid the cat of the substances:

To delay or prevent absorption
   * Mix activated charcoal with water (5 grams to 20 cc.).  Give
     one teaspoonful per two pounds body weight.
   * Thirty minutes later, give sodium sulphate (glauber's salt),
     one teaspoon per ten pounds body weight, or Milk of Magnesia,
     one teaspoon per five pounds body weight.
   * In the absence of any of these agents, coat the bowel with milk,
     egg whites, vegetable oil and give a warm water enema.

If your cat has a poisonous substance on its skin or coat, wash it off
before your cat licks the substance off and poisons itself.  Use soap
and water or give it a complete bath in lukewarm (not cold) water.

2.  Greenhouse plants

Plants from commercial greenhouses may be sprayed with systemics to
control pests.  Some are fairly nasty and long-lasting.  More
enlightened greenhouses use integrated pest management techniques and
vastly reduce the costs of pest control, and costs to the environment.

You'll need to ask about what the sprays are, how often, etc.  They
should have MSDS (material safety data sheets) on hand for everything
they use.   Many greenhouses also buy foliage plants (esp.) from 
commercial growers in southern states, rather than raising their own
plants, so you need to ask about that too.


3.  Household plants

  * Gives a rash after contact: chrysanthemum; creeping fig; weeping
    fig; poinsettia; pot mum; spider mum.

  * Irritating; the mouth gets swollen; tongue pain; sore lips --
    potentially fatal, these plants have large calcium oxalate
    crystals and when chewed, esophageal swelling may result,
    resulting in death unless an immediate tracheotomy is done:
    Arrowhead vine; Boston ivy; caladium; dumbcane; Emerald Duke;
    heart leaf (philodendrum); Marble Queen; majesty; neththyis;
    parlor ivy; pathos; red princess; saddle leaf (philodendron);
    split leaf (philodendron).

  * Generally toxic; wide variety of poisons; usually cause vomiting,
    abdominal pain, cramps; some cause tremors, heart and respiratory
    and/or kidney problems (difficult for you to interpret):
    Amaryllis; azalea; bird of paradise; crown of thorns; elephant
    ears; glocal ivy; heart ivy; ivy; Jerusalem cherry; needlepoint
    ivy; pot mum; ripple ivy; spider mum; umbrella plant.

4.  Outdoor plants 

  * Vomiting and diarrhea in some cases: Delphinium; daffodil; castor
    bean; Indian turnip; skunk cabbage; poke weed; bittersweet; ground
    cherry; foxglove; larkspur; Indian tobacco; wisteria; soap berry.

  * Poisonous and may produce vomiting, abdominal pain, sometimes
    diarrhea: horse chestnut/buckeye; rain tree/monkey pod; American
    yew; English yew; Western yew; English holly; privet; mock orange;
    bird of paradise bush; apricot & almond; peach & cherry; wild
    cherry; Japanese plum; balsam pear; black locust.

  * Various toxic effects: rhubarb; spinach; sunburned potatoes; loco
    weed; lupine; Halogeton; buttercup; nightshade; poison hemlock;
    pig weed; water hemlock; mushrooms; moonseed; May apple;
    Dutchman's breeches; Angel's trumpet; jasmine; matrimony vine.

  * Hallucinogens: marijuana; morning glory; nutmeg; periwinkle;
    peyote; loco weed.

  * Convulsions: china berry; coriaria; moonweed; nux vomica; water
    hemlock.

5.  Chemical substances

  * Strychnine, Sodium fluoroacetate, Phosphorus, Zinc Phosphide:
    rat/mouse/mole/roach poisons, rodents killed by same.  Phosphorus
    is also found in fireworks, matches, matchboxes, and fertilizer.
    
  * Arsenic, Metaldehyde, Lead: slug/snail bait; some ant poisons,
    weed killers and insecticides; arsenic is a common impurity found
    in many chemicals.  Commercial paints, linoleum, batteries are
    sources of lead.
    
  * Warfarin (Decon; Pindone): grain feeds used as rat/mouse poison,
    Also used as a prescription anti-coagulant for humans, various
    brand names, such as coumadin.  The animal bleeds to death.
    Vitamin-K is antidote: look for purplish spots on white of 
    eyes and gums (at this point animal is VERY sick).
    
  * Antifreeze (ethylene glycol): from cars.  Wash down any from your
    driveway as this is "good tasting" but toxic to most animals.
    
  * Organophosphates and Carbamates (Dichlorvos, Ectoral, Malathion,
    Sevin (in high percentages) etc), Chlorinated Hydrocarbons
    (Chloradane, Toxaphene, Lindane, Methoxychlor: flea/parasite
    treatments, insecticides.
    
  * Petroleum products: gasoline, kerosene, turpentine.
    
  * Corrosives (acid and alkali): household cleaners; drain
    decloggers; commercial solvents.
    
  * Many household cleaning products.  Pine-oil products are very
    toxic and should be avoided or rinsed thoroughly (bleach is a
    better alternative).  In particular, avoid items containing
    Phenol.

  * Garbage (food poisoning): carrion; decomposing foods; animal
    manure.

  * People Medicines: antihistamines, pain relievers (esp. aspirin),
    sleeping pills, diet pills, heart preparations and vitamins.
    Anything smelling of wintergreen or having methyl salicylate
    as an ingredient.  Tylenol (acetominophen) will kill cats.

6.  Food

Chocolate: theobromine, which is found in chocolate is toxic to cats.
The darker and more bitter the chocolate is, the more theobromine it
has.  More information can be found in the Summer 1992 edition of _Cat
Life_.

Caffeine: can cause problems for your cat.  Do not feed it coffee,
Coco Cola, or other foods containing caffeine.

K.  Vaccination and Worming Schedule

Preventative health care schedule for cattery cats and pet cats.  From
John R. August, 1989.  Preventative Health Care and Infectious Disease
Control, pp.  391-404 in Sherding, Robert H. (ed) The Cat: Diseases
and Clinical Management, v1.  Churchill-Livingstone Inc, NY

3 weeks          fecal exam
 
6 weeks          fecal exam
 
9-10 weeks       FRTV/FCV/FPV vaccine
                 ELISA test for FeLV
                 FeLV vaccine
                 fecal exam

12-14 weeks      FRTV/FCV/FPV vaccine
                 FeLV vaccination
                 Rabies vaccine
                 fecal exam

6 months         FeLV vaccination
                 fecal exam
 
12 months        fecal exam

16 months        FRTV/FCV/FPV vaccine (repeated annually)
                 FeLV vaccine (repeated annually)
                 Rabies vaccine (repeated according to manufacturer's
                                 instructions)
                 fecal exam (every 6 months)

FCV= feline calicivirus
FRTV= feline rhino-tracheovirus
FPV= feline panleukopenia virus = distemper
FeLV = feline leukemia virus.

FIP is a yearly vaccination, but it is new and may not always be
available, or advised for your particular cat.  Talk with your vet.


III.  HEALTH/MEDICAL

A.  In General.

Your cat can't tell you how it's feeling so you must familiarize
yourself with its normal behavior.  A healthy cat maintains normal
body weight, level of activity, and social behavior.  A significant
change in any of these is a warning sign.

Getting regular, accurate weights can detect problems early.  You can
weigh yourself on a bathroom scale with (holding) and without the cat
and subtract.  This is accurate only to about two pounds on most
bathroom scales.  For better accuracy, modify a kitchen scale by
mounting a bigger platform on it.  Train your cat to get on the
platform by placing a Pounce or similar treat on it.  Any sudden
weight change, especially loss, probably means your cat is feeling
sick.

B.  My Cat is Sick, Should I Take It To the Vet?

1.  Asking on the net

Frequently there are postings such as: "My cat is doing <this>, should
I take it to the vet?"  Or even, "I can't afford to take my cat to the
vet, he is doing <this>, what can I do?"  The usual answer will be
TAKE IT TO THE VET!  It is an irresponsible owner who does not consult
the vet, even by phone, at the first opportunity.  And if you take on
the responsibility of owning a cat, you must budget for the vet visits
to keep it healthy.

On the other hand, if you already have a vet appointment, or have had
the vet look at it and be stumped by the symptoms, rec.pets.cats is a
valuable resource of tips on what might be wrong, or reassurances that
the cat is not at risk of immediate death, so do not hesitate to ask
the group under these circumstances.

2.  Home vet books

A low-cost method to ease anxieties over non-emergency kitty problems
is to get a home vet book.  (See Literature.)  These books also help
explain what sort of "deviant" behaviors are actually relatively
normal for cats.  However, unless you yourself are a vet, these books
should never substitute for having a vet for your cat.

C.  What is FUS?  FIV?  FeLV?  Diabetes? 

A cautionary note about this section.  This is not meant to be a
complete treatise on these various diseases.  It is intended to
familiarize you with the various major diseases your cat can develop.
If your cat has any of these diseases, you should be in close contact
with your vet, who will provide you with all the information you need
to deal with your cat's illness.  Further information on any of these
diseases may also be found in the books listed in the Literature
section.

Furthermore, while many vaccines exist to prevent these diseases, be
aware that vaccines do not always work 100% of the time.  Variables
can include the cat's own ability to "take" the vaccine, the proper
administration of the vaccine, and whether or not the cat has already
be exposed to the disease in question.

1.  Feline Urinary Syndrome (FUS)
    
Symptoms include attempting to urinate, crying when urinating,
urinating in odd areas, or urinating bloody urine.

Males are much more likely to get this disease than females.  There is
no known means of prevention.  Treatment can vary from diet to
surgery.  Cats usually recover if the disease is caught in time; often
the cat must be watched for any recurrence of FUS.

There are often dietary restrictions to try and prevent recurrences of
FUS, these include special low-magnesium and ash formulations,
distilled water, and food sources containing DL-methionine.  These are
intended to prevent the formation of crystals in the urinary tract
(which causes FUS), but no one really knows what triggers the crystal
formation.

2.  FIV
    
There is no vaccine for this.  FIV is passed through open wounds, such
as cat bites.

This disease impairs the cat's immune system and it will often fall
prey to some other opportunistic disease.  While the virus is related
to HIV, it is NOT possible to contract AIDS from a cat with FIV.

FIV-positive cats should be kept inside and away from other cats.
With this and other precautions, they may live a fairly long time.
Because of their subsceptibility to secondary infections and
complications, these cats are rather vet-intensive.

They do not often die directly from FIV, but rather one of the
diseases that they can get when their immune system is impaired.  FIV
appears to involve three stages: acute (swollen lymph glands, fever,
depression, bacterial infections); latent (apparent wel being, can
last months to years); and chronic (cat is susceptible to all kinds of
other viruses, fungii, and bacteria).  Survival over two years is
rare.

3.  Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)

Also a retrovirus, Feline Leukemia is fatal and usually fairly
quickly, within three to four years and often less.  There is a small
percentage, ~4%, who are apparently immune and live with FeLV with no
side effects (except that they are carriers and may infect other
cats).  There is a vaccination for this disease.

FeLV is spread mainly by saliva, nose mucous and maybe urine.  The
virus can affect a lot of tissues, but tends to be most notorious for
causing cancer of lymphocytes, neutrophiles, platelet precursors, in
fact nearly all cellular constituants of the blood.  These cancers
arise from the similar ability to hide out for a long latency in the
body, but the FeLV virus "irritates" blood forming cells, causing them
to do strange things (become cancerous).  Very generally, symptoms of
FeLV infection can range from none (some few recover) to very sick.
The symptoms depend on which cell line is being attacked.  Treatment
is similarly complicated, ranging from antivirals to anticancer drugs,
and other drugs thrown in to manage infections and side effects.

4.  Diabetes

Diabetes occurs when the cat cannot properly regulate its blood sugar
level.  Symptoms may include excessive thirst and urination; it may
lose weight or develop diabetes because of obesity.  Older cats are
more likely to develop diabetes than younger ones.

Treatment may consist of a carefully regulated diet to keep blood
sugar levels consistent (especially if the diabetes was triggered by
obesity).  In most cases, daily injections of insulin are needed.
Regular vet visits are required to determine the proper dosage.  In
between visits, using urine glucose test strips available from the
pharmacy helps you determine whether the dosage of insulin is
sufficient.
    
A bottle of Karo syrup or maple syrup kept handy is essential for
bringing the cat out of dangerously low blood sugar levels.  Diabetic
cats should be kept indoors to prevent accidental feeding (and thus
disturbing the regulation of blood sugar levels).


D.  Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)

FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis) is a viral infection of cats that
is considered essentially fatal.  Now there are blood tests that can
help determine whether a cat is infected, and there is a new vaccine
available to prevent FIP.

1.  Course of the disease

Weiss (1991) presents a flow-chart of possiblities for FIP infections;
the pathways presented here are probable, not proven.

                             FIPV carrier
                                  |
                               virus shed,
                         ingested by another cat
                 __________________/\
                /                    \
Inadequate exposure; no infection     \
                                      infection
                                          |
                                      replication of virus
                                          |
                                      macrophages (white blood cells)
                                        "eat" virus, are infected
                                           |
                                       transport to lymph nodes, peristent
                                       viral infection establishes
                                           |
                                       dissemination of virus to liver,
                                          lymph nodes, spleen
            _________________________________/\__________
          ?/                                             |
    With strong cell-                            With antibodies and partial or
  mediated immunity                              no cell-mediated immunity
  and good antibodies                                     |
            |                                   persistent secondary viremia
       NO DISEASE                                         |
       /        \                               circulating immune complexes
complete     persistant subclinical                       |
recovery         infection                      inflammation of vascular system
                  |                             tissue death in eyes, brain, 
             carrier cat w/o symptoms?          lungs, kidney, mesentery
                  |                                       |
              immune system supression                    |
              due to drugs, stress, aging                 |
                  |                                       |
              FIP infection reactivates?                  |
                                                          |
                          _______________________________/ \
                          |                                |
     with partial cell-mediated immunity?      with no cell-mediated immunity?
                          |                                |
          NON-EFFUSIVE (DRY) FIP DEVELOPS           EFFUSIVE (WET) FIP DEVELOPS


2.  Considerations
    
  * A good portion of the population may be carrying FIP, and yet not
    come down with the disease.  These animals are infectious.

  * Because the virus will bind to antibodies, a cat that has some
    antibodies but not a well-functioning total immune system with
    good cytotoxic and suppressor T-cells may actually get sick
    faster: the virus-antibody complexes could cause inflammation and
    tissue destruction, or may be more readily picked up by white
    blood cells, infecting them, and further reducing the cat's immune
    system to shambles.  

  * Exposing cats to small doses of inactivated FIP virus, through
    vaccination, could actually kill cats faster if they are later
    infected with the "real" virus _if_ the cat makes antibodies but
    does not have T-cells that recognize the virus.  This apparently
    happened in the course of developing the vaccine; *the current
    vaccine is thought to be safe.*

3.  Prognosis and course of treatment    
    
Once FIP is apparent, most cats die within 5 weeks, though some 
animals may survive up to 3 months.  Corticosteroids will slow the
disease, but may also stir up latent infections; this seems to be
the most common treatment offered, along with good nutrition, and
perhaps antibiotics for bacterial secondary infections.

Though it seems odd to try to supress the cat's immune system, it
seems that most of the disease symptoms are caused by damage caused by
some of the immune reactions.

UC Davis has used a treatment protocol of high amounts of predisone or
prednisolone with cytotoxic drugs like cyclophosphamide or
phenylalanine mustard, together with intensive supportive and nursing
care.  Cats are kept on the regimin for 2-4 weeks, then re-evaluated;
if there is no improvement, euthanasia is recommended.  If there is
improvement, drugs are continued for at least 3 months, then slowly
withdrawn.

Even after treatment, recurrences are common, and reports of spontaneous
remissions are few.

Abstracts of recent journal articles indicate that interferon as a
treatment for FIP is being explored: interferon, alone or in
conjuction with a bacterial extract that tends to "kick up" the immune
system seems to be showing promise.

Other labs are working on cytotoxic agents coupled to FIPV-specific
monoclonal antibodies: this is very exciting, but probably a long way
off.

Antiviral drugs like AZT, Ribavirin, Suramin, and Foscarnet are also
possibilities for FIP treatment.  The ones that look most promising are
these and Inosiplex.  Interferon and drugs that promote interferon
synthesis are also possibilities.  Not all of these drugs are approved
for use in animals, but the FDA has not yet objected-- though there
may be some legal complications possible for the vet who uses antivirals.

4.  Symptoms

General symptoms early in the course of the disease are mild digestive
or respiratory symptoms, vague malaise and lethargy, poor appetite,
and progressive debility with fever.  Abdominal enlargement,
neurological symptoms and ocular symptoms are present in 30-40% of all
clinical cases.  The fever may fluctuate until later stages, when it
subsides and body temperature becomes subnormal.

The effusive form of FIP includes fluids building up in the peritoneal
or pleural cavity or both.  The cat becomes pudgy, is not in pain when
touched, and may have sudden trouble breathing if the pleural cavity
is affected.

The non-effusive form of FIP often has associated neurological or
ocular symptoms, including nystagmus, disorientation, lack of
coordination, paralysis, seizures, and various eye problems that can
be seen on eye exams.  Enlarged lymph nodes and kidneys can be felt.

5.  Diagnosis

Diagnosis of FIP will probably include a coronavirus titer of 1:128 or
more, but this is not diagnostic, since there can be cross-reactions
with FECV.  The vet will probably want samples of any fluid
accumulations, and may want to take needle-punch biopsies of kidney,
liver or other organs for microscopic exams.

The vet will have to make sure s/he is not dealing with a number of
other diseases, including cardiomyopathy, congestive heart failure,
infections, cancers, liver problems, kidney disease or toxoplasmosis
or systemic fungal diseases.

6.  General information

Summarized from Pedersen, 1991: 

FIP (feline infectious peritonitis, sometimes also called feline
peritonitis) is a fairly recently recognized disease in the US.  It is
caused by one of the coronaviruses (which are RNA viruses, like HIV),
not the ordinary DNA viruses that often affect animals.  FIP is most
decidedly NOT RELATED to HIV (AIDS virus)-- just has some of the same
structural components.

FIP was first recognized in the 1960's, about the same time as
transmissible gastroenteritis in pigs, a closely related virus.  FIP
is now worldwide in distribution.  It is also closely related to
canine coronavirus, and the three viruses have been described as
strains of the same species.  FIP appears to be a mutant of the FEC
(feline enteric coronavirus).  In fact, some consider the two be
almost the same, with a great deal of the difference in how they cause
disease stemming from how individual cats' immune systems react to
infection.

FIP infects mainly domestic cats, but has also been seen in lion,
mountain lion, leopard, cheetah, jaguar, lynx, caracal, sand cat and
pallas cat Incidence peaks in cats 5-6 years old, but it is seen in
all ages.  There is no correlation with the animal's sex, but
purebreds and multiple cat households seem to be more affected than
single cat households with "just plain cats".  FIP is apparently on
the rise in the colder areas of Europe.

Apparently, "healthy" cats can carry and shed FIPV (FIP virus), and it
may also be shed by FECV carriers.  Kittens may be infected before
birth, or within the first five weeks of life; route of infection can
be oral, respiratory, or parenteral.  There is a highly variable and
lengthy period between the time of infection and time of disease.  

Apparently there are some highly virulent (deadly) strains of FIP
virus that can kill high numbers of cats quickly, but the ordinary
strains of the virus are less deadly: the majority of FIP infections
probably go unnoticed due to the low virulence of most of them.

What happens after a cat is infected with FIPV depends on what strain
of virus, the cat's natural resistance, and the cat's immunologic
response to the virus.  The virus probably multiplies in white blood
cells in the lymph nodes, or the intestinal lining.

The hallmark of all systemic viral infection is that they replicate in
macrophages or sometimes lymphocytes.  Their nastiness and ability to
spread around the body is expressed in their ability to infect the
very mobile cells of the immune system that are out there trying to
destroy them.  FECV infections, on the other hand, do not succeed in
infecting cells beyond the intestinal epithelial cells.  Thus FECV is
considered a localized infection.

Also, regarding transmission, FIP is considered to spread primarilty
by a fecal-oral route, or also by wounds inflicted in cat fights.  In
other words, it is not a virus with long life floating around in the
air, so requires fairly close contact with infected cats to be
transmitted.  

|Since FIP is a corona virus, it is sensitive to destruction by the
|environment.  Coolness and dampness promotes survival, heat and
|dessication will not.  This means once a household has had a cat with
|FIP, all areas of the house should be cleaned with bleach and
|detergents where appropriate and dry them thoroughly.  In addition,
|laundering all bedding and other launderables the cat may have come
|into contact with, and thorough vacumming (and disposal of the
|contents) of the carpet and upholstered furniture is advisable.
|Areas the cat defecated or voided on should definitely be disinfected
|or disposed of.  Replacing the cat toys is also recommended.  This
|should reduce or eliminate the risk to a new cat.

E.  Skin Problems.

1.  Matted fur

Matted fur is a perfect breeding ground for parasites and encourages
inflammatory skin diseases.  If your cat has matted fur, do not try to
cut it off as you may injure the cat.  Mats are difficult to comb out
and may be painful.  You may have to have the vet sedate and shave the
cat.  Do groom it regularly.

2.  Bald patches

Often caused by itching and irritation of some sort.  Fleas,
allergies, eczema, and ringworm are all possible culprits.  Sometimes
it is simply stress; Vets may prescribe hormone shots or even
tranquilizers to control the scratching.

3.  Scratching

If the cat is scratching its ears and you can see black grit, that's
earmites.  Consult your vet for appropriate ear drops.  Ear mites stay
in the ears, but can be passed from cat to cat, especially if they
groom each other.  The life cycle of an ear mite is entirely within
the ear, so you do not have to worry about ridding your house of them
the way you do fleas.  Cats typically shake their heads when given the
medication; unless the medication actually comes back out, that is OK.
An additional step to take is to soak a cotton ball or pad in mineral
oil (baby oil is fine), and clean out the outer ear (do not poke into
the canal).  That rids the upper ear of any ear mites lodged higher up
than the canal, and makes it difficult for the ear mites to
reestablish themselves.

Scratching and a discharge from the ears means a bacterial or fungal
infection and the vet should be immediately consulted.  Other possible
causes of scratching include fleas, lice, eczema, allergies, or stud
tail (in male cats).

4. Feline Acne

Cats can develop acne just as humans do.  Usually it is only on the
chin.  It will appear as small black spots.  The reasons for feline
acne are as complex as it is for humans.  Sometimes a food allegery
(such as chocolate with humans or milk with cats) can cause it or
sometimes the cat does not clean its chin properly.

1.  Tips on caring for feline acne

It is important to keep food dishes clean.  Acne has bacteria
associated with it. The cat's chin comes in contact with the edge of
the food/water bowl, leaving bacteria.  The next time the cat uses the
bowl, it can come in contact with this bacteria and spread it on the
chin.

  * Use glass or metal food/water dishes.  It is next to impossible to
    remove the bacteria from acne from plastic dishes. 

  * Wash the food and water dishes daily.  This removes the bacteria
    from the dishes and helps to keep the problem from getting worse.
    Also, in multi-cat households, it will help reduce the chance of
    others breaking out with it.

  * Bathe the cat's chin daily with a disinfectant soap/solution from
    the vet.  Nolvasan, Xenodine, Betadine soaps are a few of the ones
    to try.  More severe cases may need to be washed twice a day. DO
    NOT USE HUMAN ACNE SOLUTIONS, these are too strong for cats and
    may cause serious problems.  Don't try to pick the spots off, just
    clean it well.

Visit the vet if you can't get the acne to clear up within a week or
two or if the acne is severe or infected.  The vet may prescribe
antibiotics for these cats or other acne treatments.

Once the acne is cleared up, keep an eye out for reoccurances.
Washing the cat's chin once a week is a good preventative measure.

F.  Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).

Some diseases can be transmitted from cats to people (zoonoses).  Most
cannot.  For example, you absolutely cannot contract AIDS from a cat
with FIV or FeLV, although the diseases are related (all are
retroviruses).  This misconception led to the tragic deaths of
hundreds of cats as panicked owners got rid of them.

Anyone with an impaired immune system is at risk of exposure to germs
and other things from cats that healthy people would not contract;
this is regardless of the health of the cat.

You are more likely to contract diseases from other people than your
pets.  Transmission of disease generally requires close contact
between susceptible people and animals or their oral, nasal, ocular or
digestive excretions.  Use common sense and practice good hygiene to
reduce your risks.

From the Cornell Book of Cats:

  * Viral diseases transmitted by cats are rabies and cowpox, usually
    through biting or direct contact.

  * Ringworm is a fungus infection affecting the hair, skin, and
    nails.  Humans contract it either by direct contact with the cat
    or by the spores shed from an infected animal.

  * Cat bites can cause a variety of diseases and infections,
    including pasteurella and tetanus.

  * Campylobacter enteritis, a disease of the small intestine, can be
    caused by contact with contaminated cat feces.

  * Cat scratch fever is an infection caused by a bacterial agent
    transmitted to the human via a cat scratch.

  * Conjunctivitis in humans can be caused by contact with the nasal
    and ocular discharges of cats infected with feline chlamydiosis.

  * Humans can become infected by Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain
    Spotted Fever when a cat brings home ticks.  If the cat becomes
    infected with plague, it can also infect humans directly.

  * Salmonella organisms, which are shed in discharges from the mouth,
    eyes, and in the feces, can cause intestinal disease in humans.

  * Toxoplasmosis is transmitted by contact with the feces of an
    infected cat. Although it is well-known that cats can transmit
    toxoplasmosis, many do not know that humans are more commonly
    infected by eating incompletely cooked meat.

  * Other parasites which can be acquired by humans are hookworms,
    roundworms, and tapeworms: usually by direct or indirect contact
    with contaminated feces, or ingestion of contaminated fleas.

G.  Toxoplasmosis (when you are pregnant and own a cat).

Toxoplasmosis is a disease that can be picked up by handling
contaminated raw meat, or the feces produced after ingestion of such
meat.  This means you can catch it by cleaning the litter box, or by
working in a garden used as a litter box.  Most commonly, people catch
it by handling raw meat or eating undercooked meat.  Most cat-exposed
people have had toxoplasmosis; the symptoms are similar to a mild
cold.  (Nomenclature: Toxoplasma gondii is the organism, toxoplasmosis
the disease, and Toxoplasma is a protozoan.)

The problem occurs when pregnant women contract toxoplasmosis.  This
will severely damage the fetus.  Simple precautions will prevent this
problem; unfortunately many doctors still recommend getting rid of
cats when the woman is pregnant.  A good idea is to get tested for
toxoplasmosis *before* you get pregnant; once you've had it, you will
not get it again.

To prevent human contraction of toxoplasmosis:

  a) Cook any meat for you or your cat thoroughly.
  b) Use care when handling raw meat.
  c) Wear household gloves when handling litter.
  d) Use disinfectant to clean the litter pan and surrounding area.
  e) Keep children's sandpits covered when not in use.
  f) Wear gardening gloves when working in the garden.

Better yet, the litterbox and meat-chopping chores should go to
someone else if you're pregnant.

----------------
This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tittle@ics.uci.edu  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
----------------