HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rich@progress.COM (Rich Lenihan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: PET bottles, dishwashers, overnight brewing
Date: 28 Jul 92 14:40:28 GMT
Organization: Progress Software Corp.

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:

>from: poirier@inrs-ener.uquebec.ca

>Now I have two questions:

>1. do many of you use your dishwashwers to sanitize bottles and hoses? I do,
>with extra hot water and I slosh in a few glugs of bleach midway along. No
>problems so far, but is this the safest way to go? Would "sparkleen" or just
>regular dishwashing detergent work better?

Assuming your stuff is "clean" to begin with, you don't need to add anything
to the dishwasher.  The heat alone should be effective.  Also, I doubt that
the dishwasher would be able to get the bleach (or whatever) up inside all of
the bottles (or inside your hoses, for that matter).

>2. the other night, late into the sparge, I decided to abandon ship and go to
>bed, leaving 6 gallons of wort in pots on the stove (no heat), which I boiled
>and hopped the next morning when I was feeling perkier. So far it has fermented
>uneventfully, and I found it quite pleasant to split the brewtime into parts.
>AM I IN TROUBLE NOW???

I would be very interested to hear how your beer turns out.  A while back
I tried the same thing and that batch had a slight "soapy" taste to it.
I'm not ruling out random infection, but this taste was noticeable from the
first bottle and hasn't gotten any better or worse after 4 months so it
may be the procedure that was flawed.  Also, I've read where some people
do this (mash, set aside, then brew later) deliberately to get a certain
flavor in their beer.  I believe this is called "sour mashing" and I think
I know why.

Anyway, I now stick to same-day brewing.

-Rich

>Thanks for any advice.
>Deb
--
Rich Lenihan                 UUCP: mit-eddie!progress!rich
Progress Software Corp.      Internet: rich@progress.com
From: valluri@cco.caltech.edu (Siddhartha Valluri)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: help: FAQ & wine yeasts
Date: 28 Jul 92 22:34:46 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena

Could someone tell me     
1)where to find the FAQ      
2)where to get wine yeasts (preferrably mail order)

thanks in advance.
     sid.
.


-- 
##   ...And Dirty Deeds Done Dirt Cheap                             ##
##                                             Sid Valluri          ##
##                                    Department of Redundancy Dept.##
##                                              CALTECH             ##
From: porco@husc10.harvard.edu (John Porco)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: novice question:  looking for Bretannomyces lambicus
Date: 28 Jul 92 15:39:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: husc10.PORCO.92Jul28083955
Distribution: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: Harvard Arts and Sciences Computer Services, Cambridge, MA



pardon me if this qualifies as a FAQ, but i was just referred to this
group from rec.food.drink...

i am interested in the strains Bretannomyces lambicus and Pediococcus
cerevisiae to start a lambic.  could someone tell me how to find/order
same (i.e. i'm starting from ground zero here; if someone could mail
me the address ofd a company that maintains rare strains, that would 
be great.)

thanks.

.jP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: DARREN@ua1vm.ua.edu (Darren Evans-Young)
Subject: Re: Bere good for you?
Organization: The University of Alabama, Tuscaloosa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 00:29:52 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.225855.7569@crash.cts.com>
jmurphy@crash.cts.com (Jason Murphy) writes:
 
>
> Someone asked a few weeks ago about the benifits of drinking alcohol.
>I posted that alcohol reduces the chances of having a stroke or heart
>attack. Well, here is another one that you can add to the list. I got this
>one out of TIME.
>
>RISK-FREE OYSTERS? Raw oysters often carry the Hepatitis A virus, which
>causes a truly unpleasant (thou not necessarily fatal) liver disease. Now
>comes a vaccination of sorts, and one that many people will find easier to
>swallow than the oysters. According to a report in the journal
>'Epidemiology', chasing oysters with a glass of wine or a cocktail [JM:
>How about a homebrew?] can reduce the risk by a whopping 90% no matter
>how many oysters are downed. It's the first time anyone has shown alcohol
>can prevent viral illness.
 
The article I read said wine or cocktail and NOT beer...beer not being
high enough in alcohol.
 
Darren
 
Darren Evans-Young                                  darren@ua1vm.ua.edu
Seebeck Computer Center                             70651.2605@CompuServe.COM
The University of Alabama, Tuscaloosa               (205)348-3988
From: devenzia@euler.jsc.nasa.gov (John DeVenezia)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bere good for you?
Date: 22 Jul 92 14:47:07 GMT
Organization: LESC

In article <1992Jul21.225855.7569@crash.cts.com>, jmurphy@crash.cts.com (Jason Murphy) writes:
> 
>  Someone asked a few weeks ago about the benifits of drinking alcohol.
> I posted that alcohol reduces the chances of having a stroke or heart
> attack. Well, here is another one that you can add to the list. I got this
> one out of TIME.
> 
> RISK-FREE OYSTERS? Raw oysters often carry the Hepatitis A virus, which
> causes a truly unpleasant (thou not necessarily fatal) liver disease. Now
> comes a vaccination of sorts, and one that many people will find easier to
> swallow than the oysters. According to a report in the journal
> 'Epidemiology', chasing oysters with a glass of wine or a cocktail [JM:
> How about a homebrew?] can reduce the risk by a whopping 90% no matter 
> how many oysters are downed. It's the first time anyone has shown alcohol 
> can prevent viral illness.
> 
> 
Bere? It sure doesn't help your typing :).

I heard the researchers that did this raw shellfish, disease, alcohol
consumption correlation being interviewed on NPR (National Public Radio).

Unforntunately the decrease in risk is only seen when the subject consumed
a stiff drink (at least margarita strength). They said beer was seen to 
have no effect on infections.  So unless you chase a shot with a homebrew
or make a really strong barleywine you're are out of luck.

jd
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: The Cats Meow?
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:24:10 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

The Cat's meow (homebrew recipe book) is available from Sierra.Stanford.Edu
From: crick@bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bottle fillers
Date: 24 Jul 92 20:27:57 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Bell-Northern Research


In article <1992Jul16.150320.29512@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu>
gorski@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (Tom Gorski) writes:
>In article <1992Jul16.125658.5116@linus.mitre.org> bart@marzipan.mitre.org
(Bartley C. Conrath) writes:
>>I own one of these plastic orange filler tips that
>>came with my beer making kit.  Unfortunately, the
>>thing does not work well at all.  Sometimes the
>>tip falls off of the hard plastic tube.  More
>>commonly, it just leaks or sprays beer all over the
>>place, as well as doing an excellent job of foaming
>>up my beer.  
>[...]
>>My questions are 1) is there something
>>I may be doing wrong?  
>
>Try putting a clamp on the siphon hose further up to restrict the flow
>rate.  This should help cut down on the frothing that you get with the
>the filler valve wide open.
Try  putting a clamp on the hose above the filler. Then remove the filler, and 
put it in the garbage. Bottle using the squeeze clamp. Its faster, It doesn't
foam the beer. The plain hose is all you have to worry about cleaning.
The clamp I use squeezes shut with thumb preesure, and releases by pulling
down on the little ratchet part that hold it closed. It cost about a dollar.

f
o
d
d
e
r
 
f
o
r

m
a
i
l
e
r

Cheers
 Bill Crick Brewius, Ergo sum!
From: shibumi@joes.garage.com (Kenton A. Hoover)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Keg connects
Date: 24 Jul 92 21:53:29 GMT
Reply-To: shibumi@joes.garage.com
Organization: Joe's Garage, San Francisco, KA

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:
>Are there *bad* consequences that can happen if your CO2 tank tips over
>on its side (other than trashing the gauges)?  Does the liquid CO2 enter
>the keg - or freeze the line so bad it snaps apart?  Or am I worrying too
>much.....

The valve can break off and the tank can be propelled towards anything in its
way.  Gas cylinders are very dangerous things.   Even a five pound cylinder
holds alot of CO2, and breaking the valve stem is a great way to get it
all out of there within seconds.

| Kenton A. Hoover                                                            |
| P.O. Box 882643                                             +1 415 957 3614 |
| San Francisco, Kalifornia 94188-2643                shibumi@joes.garage.com |
|==============442.075+100=146.850+=444.625+131.8=440.900+114.8===============|
| Delores breezed along the surface of her life like a flat stone forever     |
| skipping along smooth water, rippling reality sporadically but oblivious to |
| it consistently, until she finally lost momentum, sank, and due to an over- |
| dose of flouride as a child which caused her to suffer from chronic apathy, |
| doomed herself to lie forever on the floor of her life as useless as an     |
| appendix and as lonely as a five-hundred pound barbell in a steroid-free    |
| fitness center.                                                             |
|                -- Winning sentence, 1990 Bulwer-Lytton bad fiction contest. |
From: pryor@quadrophenia.berkeley.edu (Duaine W. Pryor Jr.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: wyeast
Date: 27 Jul 92 13:17:32
Organization: /home/tampa_a/grad/pryor/.organization
NNTP-Posting-Host: quadrophenia.berkeley.edu


I have been reading this group for a while and have seen several references
to wyeast.   Is this a yeast supply company?   If so, could someone post 
the address or phone number.     

Also, how difficult are liquid yeast cultures to use and maintain?  
Do the procedures in Papazians book work ? 
What kind of things do they give you control over that simple dry yeast 
does not.   What are the advantages of these cultures.
Is this a FAQ ?

For my first batch, I used the yeast that came with the 
kit, and for subsequent batches, including one all grain batch, I have
used Whitbread Ale Yeast.   I have been pretty happy with that, but it 
could be only because I don't know any better (yet).

Duaine Pryor
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: diorio@orion.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: Re: flat beer
Reply-To: diorio@orion.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 14:38:03 GMT



Carbonation takes longer when you prime with DME. Give it another weeks to 
ten days, and RDWHAHB.

Mike
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Stuck Sparge
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 03:42:41 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

In article <23277@alice.att.com> jj@alice.UUCP (jj@alice.att.com, curmudgeon) writes:
>In article <1992Jul22.025033.545@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>> Article 4489 (10 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
> 
>> >Hubris is not an attractive trait.
> 
>> Neither is bigotry.
>
>Will both of you go away and have a homebrew, or perhaps more,
>and get your sedative quotient?  
>
>This is a group on brewing, NOT on politics.  Those wanting to 
>pump up the IHR can please go elsewhere, like into my trub runoff
>bucket?

Just when it starts to mellow out, some idiot say no politcs but can't
resist dragging the IHR in a beer discussion.
From: spl@alex.uucp (Steve Lamont)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: What do you call this?
Date: 30 Jul 92 20:14:52 GMT
Organization: University of Calif., San Diego/Microscopy and Imaging Resource
NNTP-Posting-Host: alex.ucsd.edu

In article <Bs7n4v.Jv7@wrs.com> gak@wrs.com writes:
>>In article <1992Jul29.190441.20554@mcnc.org> roy@mcnc.org (Subhash Chandra Roy) writes:
>>>Just finished brewing a barley wine strength braggart (sp?).  I really
>>>don't know what style the ale actually is though.
>
>What's a "braggart"?  I don't see it listed in Eckhardt's book...

Obviously you haven't been reading Jack S's postings... :-) :-) :-)

[It's a joke, Jack!]

							spl
-- 
Steve Lamont, SciViGuy -- (619) 534-7968 -- spl@dim.ucsd.edu
UCSD Microscopy and Imaging Resource/UCSD Med School/La Jolla, CA 92093-0608
"Out of the ash/I rise with my red hair/And I eat men like air."
                        - Sylvia Plath, "Lady Lazarus"
From: rone@tekig1.PEN.TEK.COM (Ronald W Ezetta)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: How do _you_ pronounce "Wyeast"?
Date: 28 Jul 92 14:55:19 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Jul28.132904.27190@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> devenzia@euler.jsc.nasa.gov (John DeVenezia) writes:
>In article <Bs2nwB.L6u@wrs.com>, gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven) writes:
>> 
>> >In article <64467@hydra.gatech.EDU>, tynor@prism.gatech.EDU (STEVE TYNOR) writes:
>> >> 
>> >> I say "why-yeast", though I can't justify that.  Is there a "right way"
>> >> to pronouce "Wyeast"?
>> 
>> Call 'em and ask 'em.
>> 
>Call 'em and see how they answer their phone.

  I can see it now, Wyeast products won't be available because they are too
  busy answering the telephone.

  Its pronounced "why-east, wI-east, Y-east", you get the idea.  Wyeast is the
  local Indian name for the dormant Cascade volcano Mt. Hood.  Clever, huh?


-Ron "I live in the home of Cascade, Willamette, Mt. Hood, and Wyeast" Ezetta-
From: shannah@netcom.com (Teri Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: looking for knotted canopy pattern
Date: 22 Jul 92 19:30:32 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Jul21.211603.141161@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> gwb0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (GERALYN WOOD BARRY) writes:
>
>  Has anyone seen a pattern for making an old-fashioned knotted bed
>  canopy (usually made from white cotton) with tassels around the
>  edge? I have a friend who would like to make one, but she can't
>  find a pattern. I have suggested that she just experiment, but she
>  prefers to have explicit instructions to follow that tell how much
>  thread to buy, etc. She has been looking for a pattern for several
>  years without success. And I haven't been able to find one in my
>  MOUNTAINS of needlecraft books and magazines 8^). If anyone has
>  seen instructions, I would appreciate a reference!
>
I don't have a specific reference, but I have a couple of suggestions.
One is to try macrame books.  Another is to try doing some research 
into making fishnets.

Maybe I'm naive, but it seems that for a simple pattern with tassels,
that square knots would make an easy but elegant canopy.  If she wants
something more complex, I'm not sure that any pattern is going to be
completely foolproof: if she knots more loosely than the author, she
could wind up short on materials, anyway.

My dad would probably suggest that she get some cheap thread, like
"Knit-Cro-Sheen" or something, and make a scale model of what she
wants, and use that for figuring the amount of materials needed.  
(And for perfecting her technique.)

Teri
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: "VICKIE STARBUCK" <TS0058@ohstmvsa.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Moths and moth proofing
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 19:29:00 GMT

One very important thing that I have learned from reading
and experience, is that it is VERY important that articles
that are high risk to moth ( and other creepy pests) damamge
must be stored _CLEAN_.  It is my experience that soiled collars
and cuffs are most likely places to be damaged, and that the
finer the fabric (angora, etc.) that the more appetizing it is.
AND while if I remember right, cedar can actually kill moths,
I'm not sure about there eggs.  And it is the oil, that's deadly
to them, and it does need to be replenished from time to time.
So, be sure to wash your woolies, silks, etc.

Vickie
From: dee@ldgo.columbia.edu (carolyn peppin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: knitter needs embroiderers' help!
Keywords: metallic DMC floss
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:45:43 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory


  Help!  I am a knitter, replicating, stitch_by_stitch an
  ancient pair of Ukranian socks.  The knitting is no problem,
  but these socks are over-stitched with gold thread.

  Duplicating the original gold thread is out of the que$tion,
  so I am trying to use DMC gold floss.  The metalic thread
  is wrapped around a fibrous core, and unravels while stitching.
  Do you folks have any suggestions for keeping this type of
  thread from unraveling?

  Many, many thanks... also for any other helful hints for
  handling this cantankerous stuff!  (I am not an embroiderer,
  so please don't hesitate to offer really basic advice!)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: Marina.Salume@corp.sun.com (Marina Salume)
Subject: Re: blending filament and linen fabric
Organization: Cornell University, Ithaca NY
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 18:50:31 GMT


>More questions: What is blending filament, how do you use it, and where
>do you get it? 
>
>If I wanted to try stitching on linen, do I need a specific kind?  All >I've
>seen are in kits or on bolts at the fabric store.

Blending filament is a lustrous fiber that is usually combined with your
regular floss (say one strand of filament with two strands of floss)
to give it a sparkly look. I haven't used it yet but there has been some
discussion about how cranky it is to work with, so you might want to
use it very sparingly the first time, just to see whether you enjoy
working with it.

For linen, you need an evenweave. Most fabric store linen will not be
evenweave, you need to get stuff that is woven especially for counted
thread needlework. If there isn't a good needlework store near you, there
are lots of mail order sources. I haven't personally ordered these things
by mail order, but I can post a few ads I see in the magazines for you
to try, if you like. (then you can let us know which ones are the best).
Evenweave linen comes in lots of colors and different "gauges", just like
aida cloth.

--marina
From: mcm@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Substituting Yarns
Date: 23 Jul 92 07:10:57 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

In article <1992Jul17.193211.2577@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca>, jmacdonald@mta.ca (Jane MacDonald) writes:
> Hello,
> 
> I have found a pattern for a sweater I REALLY like (it is a "jacket" with a
> sampler of guernsey type patterns).  It calls for Patons "Aran Style" yarn. 
> This yarn has lots of acrylic it and I prefer wool.  Also, at least around
> here, this yarn does not come in many colors (nor interesting colors either). 
> There are a couple of woolen mills around here that sell through mail order and
> they both (esp. one) have 2 and 3 ply woolen yarn in a bunch of tweedie rich
> colors.  My concern is substituting the yarn.  
> 
> I did do up a square in the 3-ply for the gauge (19 stitches for 25 rows (I
> think)) and ended up short by what looks like a stitch (and if I really squish
> it flat and squint it is 10 cm...) But the 3-ply yarn seems much thinner
> (lighter?) than the patons, and although I have substituted yarn before and
> have had it work out, I have also substituted yarn and have had a mess on my
> hands (esp. with raglan shoulders).  My Question??????  Well, I am looking for
> "rule of thumbs", thing to consider when substituting yarns.  Do others have
> problems when they substitute?  If the gauge works out to be of the correct
> width but not of length, can you just figure on knitting more rows to get
> desired length.  Thank-you in advance.
> 
> Jane
> (jmacdonald@mta.ca)

Many patterns like the one you chose have seed stitch or something with a tiny
repeat under the arms.  You could calculate how short you will be and add the
stitches there.  Another possibility is if you have 5 or more stitches, then
add one more design that you like.  One is called honeycomb (I think) and it
kind of looks like 2 wavy lines that touch and move apart.  Might be
row 1: pkkp
row 2: kppk
row 3: kppk
row 4: pkkp
You can add a column of purls to separate it from last pattern.  This is your
chance to be creative.  Feel free to do a little designing.  My vote is to stay
away from any yarn you don't adore.  This will be a BIG project and if you're
not in love with it, you may never finish it.  For yarn possibilities you might
call Yarn Barn in Lawrence KS (my local store).  They have a huge selection and
will do mail order.  they have an 800 number so 800-555-1212 should have it
listed.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: shannah@netcom.com (Teri Miller)
Subject: Re: Need suggestion for an alternative
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 22:21:05 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

In article <1992Jul30.152143.5023@chpc.utexas.edu> jbyrd@chpc.utexas.edu (Jan Byrd) writes:
>I've started doing needlepoint recently and am having trouble keeping
>the yarns separated while I've got a project going.  The craft store
>sells a flat butterfly-shaped plastic thing with a bunch of quarter-sized 
[remainder deleted]

I like keeping them in ziplock bags.  I bag colors together that are very 
different, so that they don't get confused.  For example, I'm doing a 
pillow in gold, black, plum, and 3 shades of red.  I have the 2 most 
different shades of red in with the black, and the third shade in with
the gold and plum.  Makes it very easy to find the color I want.  It
also doesn't stress the yarns, and keeps them from getting dusty (or
full of cat-hairs).

If you have a Sharpie pen, you can write the project name on the bags,
which helps if your husband is like mine and tends to help tidy up - if
he puts the bags away separately from the project, it's no big deal.
From: whitaker@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: cot quilt
Date: 24 Jul 92 10:11:51 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology


I'm about to make a quilt or a patchwork cover thing for a cot for my sister
who lives in Mt Isa. Actually for her baby. I haven't made a quilt before, and
am wondering about how easy it is to wash a quilt made with synthetic batting,
and if there is anything else to use in the middle. How do you wash quilts?
Can you put a piece of material or something other than batting in the middle?
Also if anyone in Mt Isa is reading this, are quilts for babies a totally 
useless item up there?

Thankyou,
Beth.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: eek@ocarina.mitre.org (Ericka Kammerer)
Subject: crochet cotton
Followup-To: rec.crafts.textiles
Reply-To: eek@csmil.umich.edu
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean, Va
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 18:45:59 GMT


	I've done quite a bit of thread crochet work (doilies, table
scarves, lace, etc) and now I'm thinking of getting into Irish
Crochet.  To do that, I need a much better selection of threads
than I have found locally.  Does anyone know of a mail-order source,
especially for the full range of DMC threads (at least up to size 100)?
I'd be even more thrilled to be able to contact someplace that
specialized in lacemaking supplies, since I hear it's possible to
get sizes up to 200.  Colors and other fibers (silks, linens)
would also be very welcome.

Thanks for any information,
Ericka
eek@csmil.umich.edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles