HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon USM lenses (was Re: was going to get 8008s but EOS 10s recommended)
Date: 12 Dec 92 15:24:55 GMT
	<PD.92Dec12032102@horus.sics.se>
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science, Kista

In article <PD.92Dec12032102@horus.sics.se> I wrote:

>There are three "levels" of USM lenses in the Canon EF lens linup:
>1. The "L" lenses, which are, more or less without an exception,
>   outstanding. (20-35/2.8L, 28-80/2.8-4L, 14/2.8L, 50/1L, 85/1.2L,
>   200/1.8L, 200/2.8L, TS-E 24/3.5L, 300/2.8L, 300/4L, 400/2.8L,
                        ^^^^^^^^^^^^
>   500/4.5L, 600/4L)

Error! The TS-E lens is of course not an USM lens, since it is
manually focused.

Sorry about that.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
From: egret@wet.UUCP (thomas helke)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: ***For Sale: KIEV 88***
Keywords: Kiev 88
Date: 15 Dec 92 10:39:45 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Wetware Diversions, San Francisco

For Sale: Kiev 88 (Hasselblad 1000F clone) w/ 80mm Kiev lens,
UV and Yellow-Green filters, lens hood, two interchangeable
120 backs, and leather carrying case. $450. Perfect, mint
condition, still under warranty. Have only shot @ 10 rolls
of film with it. Beautiful pictures from 2 1/4 medium format 
negatives; great enlargements. 

Notify me by e-mail: egret@wet.UUCP

Thomas Helke 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From:  (Bill Fernandez)
Subject: Re: Olympus Stylus Recommendations
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 01:35:31 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer
Followup-To: rec.photo


> Does anyone have any experience positive or negative with
> the Olympus Stylus?
> 

I've had one with a date-imprinting back for about a year.

I love it because:
 it fits in any pocket.
 slide it open and it's ready to go, slide it closed and its ready to
store.
 you can tell by touch if it's on or off.
 it's generally easy to use.
 the red-eye reduction feature works.

But note that:
 the flash is very weak, so the overall color cast of a picture can be
affected
  by ambient light.

good luck,

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: slime@mits.mdata.fi (Sam Laur)
Subject: Re: Polorid/Land cameras
Organization: Microdata Oy, Helsinki, Finland
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 05:42:42 GMT

In article <BzBAH1.JnJ@cup.hp.com> markt@cup.hp.com (Mark Thompson) writes:
>I think that these are the cheap follow-on to what you have.  They take pack
>film, I think yours takes roll?  I have heard of the 110a/b cameras being
 
Nah, it takes a pack, too. I guess the model 104 was made somewhere
in the middle of the 60's - with the old color film system, and the
aluminum "cold-clip" which you used when it was colder than 18C -
the B&W film type is mentioned in the manual, but nothing about the color
film except that "you can use it"... It has an automatic exposure meter,
with plastic lenses (at least that's what they feel like) and only
two fixed stops (one for B&W, one for color.) And then there's the
weird one-window rangefinder with an obscure distance scale.

But anyway, does B&W Polaroid film anymore need a wipe with a "hardening
substance" as described in my camera's manual?


--
/*    Sam Laur     slime@mits.mdata.fi     */
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Query: Books on physics of photography
Date: 18 Dec 92 11:09:46 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <1992Dec16.111403.2011@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu> dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu writes:
>Who can recommend some books on the physics of photography?  They're 
>for my wife, a chemist w/strong math background.  She's interested in 
>the way lenses work and why exposures work the way they do (e.g. f/8 @ 
>1/100 sec == f/16 @ 1/50 sec).

Umm...  Wouldn't f/8 @ 1/100 sec be the same as f/16 @ 1/25 sec?
                                                       ----

Sorry, I can't recommend any books.

>
>David Talmage

Mike

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Question on EOS 1000 Durability
From: m4241111@emu.insted.unimelb.edu.au
Date: 16 Dec 92 13:39:49 GMT

                       EOS 1000 Reliability/Durability

Has anyone with an EOS 1000 had any problems - in particular, with
the plastic mount and lenses? I remember some  time ago that many people
expressed doubts about the durability of these 2 items.

                                              Howard Elliot
                                              Institute of Education
                                              Melbourne University
                                              howard@insted.unimelb.edu.au
From: sdpage@andersen.co.uk (Stephen Page)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Jobo and the evil effects of water
Date: 13 Dec 92 18:30:08 GMT
Organization: Andersen Consulting (UK Practice)

When processing Multigrade III paper in my Jobo CPE-2 plus, I found
that quite often I would get white streaks or blotches across some
of the prints.

The remedy suggested in a book was to dry the drum more thoroughly
before starting the processing run. This seems to help.

Question: why is it so sensitive to a bit of water? I am using a pre-wash
before putting the developer in, as the manual suggests, so I thought this
would blow away any water droplets which were already in the drum.

Thanks for any ideas...
sdpage@andersen.co.uk
From: shtono34@wharton.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Flash questions
Date: 13 Dec 92 21:55:15 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

I have a Metz 18 B1 flash (old, manual model). I would like to figure
out the correct guide number for the flash. There is a scale that says
the maximum distance at f2 is between 8 and 11 meters. Let us assume
it is 9. Then is it correct to say that the gude number is 2*9=18 m?

I would appreciate if someone elucidates me on this. Also, this may
look like a EOS FAQ, but what are the alternatives to the EZ 430 flash
for Canon EOS cameras? I would prefer to stick to Metz (I think their
flashes are excellent) if they made an EOS dedicated unit (shoe mounted).

Third, overall it looks to me as if Nikon makes more advanced flash
systems, SB-24, SB-25. What can EOS owners hope for from Canon or other
manufacturers?

Thanks, Vassil

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: More Medium Format Questions?
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 20:15:06 GMT

In article <6eph021Z2eyj01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) writes:
> But I have trouble believing that the lenses which will couple with the
> rangefinders could be as good as modern medium format lenses.  I'd
> hate to spend the money and tote the weight to obtain only a marginal 
> improvement in image quality over 35mm. 
> 
> Opinions?
> 

Barry, the Graflex Crown I look at 6 mo or so ago had all the rangfinder
cams in the barrel mount. So it should be possible to remove the old lens,
and replace it with a modern one of the same focal length. All you should have
to do is get it to focus at infinity at the right place.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gsmlrn@gsm001.mendelson.com (Geoffrey S. Mendelson)
Subject: Re: Beach Camera deal followup
Organization: Mendelson.com
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 01:20:12 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.213152.19975@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
> I believe Nikon will only repair "USA" items (i.e no grey market
>repairs under warrantee). If this is wrong, perhaps someone can post the
>real situation with Nikon.

Nikon (U.S.A) will (with the following exception) only repair items they
sold to an authorised dealer and an authorised dealer (not necessarliy
the one that bought it from Nikon U.S.A.) sold to you.

To get warranty service you must have a dated sales slip from an authorised
dealer and the U.S.A. warranty card. Note that there are two levels of dealers,
I think the first is called "Nikon Consumer Products" (I don't know as I 
don't patronize them) and the other is "Nikon Advanced Systems".

If you buy an NAS product (8008s, N90, SB24, F3, F4 and the more
sophistocated lenses) from a non NAS dealer, Nikon will not honor your warranty.
Also note that to become a Nikon dealer you must agree to not sell grey
market items. So you can be sure that anyone offering you a camera for
$x and $x+ for a U.S. warranty is either making you pay for what you already
are buying or is selling you a camera with NO WARRANTY.

All Nikon U.S.A. warranties are valid outside the U.S., but I think the
authorized dealer requirement may hold.

The one exception is that if you can prove that you were not a resident
of the U.S. when you purchased the camera, and it was purchased in the country
you lived at the time, they may fix it. I have heard that this is the case, 
but I know of no-one that actually did it.

Geoff.
-- 
Geoffrey S. Mendelson 
(215) 242-8712
gsm@mendelson.com     or uunet!gsm001!gsm
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: help photographing lunar eclipse
Date: 12 Dec 92 00:24:12 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:
: 
: By the way, watching it from the City Observatory on Calton Hill, Edinburgh,
: I counted three flashes in the local crowd before totality.

Maybe they were just tourists photographing each other ... "And here we are
at the lunar eclipse in SCOTLAND!" :-)
-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: nesmith+@cs.cmu.edu (Daniel Nesmith)
Subject: Re: Mirror lock-up, Has anybody really tested?
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 21:59:23 GMT

One of the German photo magazines did an article on the factors
that influence sharpness, sometime during the course of the year, I
think.  Mirror lock-up did help, but nowhere near as much as using
a tripod and cable release.  In fact, they even showed that a
"professional" tripod will give marked improvement over a flimsier
"amateur" tripod.  Whether this result was influenced by their
advertisers, I do not know. :-)

I haven't done these tests myself, not being a sharpness fanatic.
(I have bigger problems with my photography, like composition!)

Dan

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: forman@fraser.sfu.ca (Pamela Catherine Forman)
Subject:  Cibachrome-care & feeding of...
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 09:24:38 GMT

I took several cibachrome prints in to be framed the other day
and noticed that there were light scratches all over the prints
as well as a finger print on one (probablly myself!).  I was told
that there is no way to get rid of the finger print.  Is this true?
The prints were returned to me from the shop with layers of tissue
in between the prints.  Could this have caused the scratches?  
What is the best way to take care of this type of print untill it
gets framed??  Someone told me that it is ok to dry-mount them and
then I was told NEVER!  Who's right (or is this just dependent on
skill of handler)?
  
How different is doing cibachrome from B & W developement and
processing (I guess what I want to know is it within the realm
of beginners to do)?

Thanks for the help!!  It's too expensive for me to accidentally
muck up good prints!! 

.
From: erc@Apple.COM (Ed Carp)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon EM - what's that button do?
Date: 19 Dec 92 05:41:40 GMT
Organization: Bleeding Edge Technologies - 'Sliding Down The Razor Blade Of Life...'

I couldn't resist - I saw this Nikon EM sitting in a pawn shop, and it was
crying for someone to buy it, so I did.  The unfortunate thing is, it didn't
come with an instruction manual, so I have a couple of questions for someone
who knows this camera.  (I paid $90 for it, and they go for $120 or so used,
so I think it was a good deal - *with* the Nikon series E 50mm/f-1.8 lens).

First, I assume there isn't a way to put this camera in manual mode - it's
apeture-priority, camera selects the shutter speed, right?  OK - there is
a small silver button on the front of the camera, just beneath the film rewind
knob - what's it for?  It seems to drop the shutter speed 2 stops, so I assume
it's for backlit metering compensation.  Is the metering center-weighted
averaging, or full averaging over the entire frame?

Second, there is a lever just to the left of the lens (facing the camera),
about 1.5 inches below the shutter release.  I thought this was perhaps a
depth-of-field previewer, or a self-timer, but I can't get it to budge.
What's the trick, and what's it for?

Any answers you could give I would be grateful for...thanks in advance!
-- 
Ed Carp, N7EKG                    erc@apple.com                   801/538-0177
"This is the final task I will ever give you, and it  goes  on  forever.   Act
happy, feel happy, be happy, without a reason in the world. Then you can love,
and do what you will."           -- Dan Millman, "Way Of The Peaceful Warrior"
From: kortikar@mipos2.intel.com (Aniruddha Kortikar)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: PZ-10/PZ-1 additional features - worth the price ?
Date: 15 Dec 92 21:57:43 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation, Santa Clara, CA USA

From my FAQ file I can gather that PZ-1 has these additional features 
1. Landscape Program
2. Focuss Assist Light
3. Slow shutter (30 sec) and 1/8000 fastest shutter
4. delay timer 2 -12 sec (variable, PZ-10 has fixed 12 sec)
5. DX- Override
6. Trap Focus
7. Rewind With Tounge
8. Front/Rear Curtain Sync            
9. Depth Of Field Preview.
10. Change Focus Screen
11. Modulation transfer Function/Hyper PRogram Mode etc ..

Camera World has 359$ kit for PZ-10 with 28-80 lens. 
Simlar PZ-1 kit may cost about 550 or so (prices not confirmed)       

The question is do you use features above ?are they worth 200$ more ?

regards,

Aniruddha Kortikar (kortikar@mipos2.intel.com)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E-mail 	: kortikar@mipos2.intel.com | A billion here, a billion there ...
Phone(W): 408 765 5515              | pretty soon it adds upto real money.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1992 21:04:13 GMT
Subject: Re: i'll pass on the cpe-2 pl
Organization: HP Scientific Instruments Division - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

"guillermo penate" <guillermo.penate@canrem.com>  writes:

} BS>I believe that my Beseler motor base turns at about 45-50 rpm.  This is
  } >faster than Ilford recommends, but I know someone who uses one and gets
  } >outstanding results (I'm fortunate enough to use a Jobo CPP now).  I think
  } >that the motor base will work just fine.  I tried to put a simple line-
  } >switch type of lamp dimmer on the power line to reduce the speed but the
  } >motor wasn't up to turning the load at the lower settings.................

} DO NOT TRY THAT DIMMER!!!

} Manufactures use "STEPPER MOTORS" in their processors.  The speed of this
} motors is not controlled by the INPUT VOLTAGE (as in your blender), you can
} cause damage to the electronic circuitry that makes the motor turn by doing
} that.

Where to begin?

The motor in the processor is certainly not a stepper (a switched-DC relative
of AC synchronous motors, on steroids), and is almost certainly a run-of-the-
mill, everyday AC motor of the same type used on ventilation fans. These can
be run from motor speed controllers, such as the type used in bathroom vents.

On the light dimmer, it specifically says: "Do not use with motors". There
was probably a risk of burning the dimmer, especially with the high load of
the heater element. It's hard to find dimmers that are rated any higher than
600W, but the original poster should not have used one anyway.

Putting the whole processor onto an external power controller is not
appropriate, as the heater circuit would also be affected. A more
effective speed control installation would have to involve opening up
the box, and inserting the controller circuit on the line that feeds the
motor. Of course, this will void the warranty and kill the electrically
impaired, so this is an opportunity to exercize judgement.

And, nothing personal, but "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing". Be
careful, folks.
From: kortikar@mipos2.intel.com (Aniruddha Kortikar)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Wanted : N6006 And/Or Nikkor Lenses 50mm,28-70 or 35-70,70-210
Date: 18 Dec 92 17:04:11 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Intel Corporation, Santa Clara, CA USA

Camera and/or lenses must be in mint condition. Prefereably with warranty 
still available/transferable. please send e-mail with your expected prices.

Camera/Lenses must be available for insepection before purchase. 

Aniruddha Kortikar (kortikar@mipos2.intel.com)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E-mail 	: kortikar@mipos2.intel.com | A billion here, a billion there ...
Phone(W): 408 765 5515              | pretty soon it adds upto real money.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Peter Hsrris <pharris@ucscm.ucsc.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: scratches on bulk loaded film
Date: 14 Dec 1992 22:40:34 GMT
Organization: University of California, Santa Cruz
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: twilight-mac13.ucsc.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A7524E87B701025D@twilight-mac13.ucsc.edu>
X-XXDate: Mon, 14 Dec 92 23:45:27 GMT

>From: kalvey@fermi.phys.ualberta.ca (Anand R Kalvey)

Scratches on bulk-loaded film generally come from dirt on the felt
light-trap. (I assume you
way that I
trap of all abrasive particles. There are a couple of solutions open to
you:

1. Use your cassettes only once or twice and then toss them.

2. Buy Nikon bulk-loading cassettes (if they even still make them at
all.) They are VERY EXPENSIVE but won

3. Don
coming into play with your scratched film in that only images that are of
some interest/value have scratches and dust on them.

I gave up using bulk film years ago just because of this problem. ITS
ONLY MONEY, FOLKS!!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: chorley@vms.ocom.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Petri info wanted
Organization: OSU College of Osteopathic Medicine
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 20:15:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.080216.25710@sfu.ca>, forman@fraser.sfu.ca (Pamela Catherine Forman) writes:
> I am looking at an interesting collection of photo equipment from the
> Vancouver Buy $ Sell and was wondering if anyone can tell me if it is
> worth the price that is being asked.
> 
> For sale:
> 
> Petri 35mm Camera
> 3 Lenses
> Bellows
> Slide Copier
> 
> all for $150.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1) What type of camera is the Petri?  Is is Russian?  Is it a good
> camera or a piece of junk?  How does it compare to the Zenit?  What is
> is compatible with?
> 
> 2) What are the chances that the lenses, bellows, and slide copier
> would work on a Zenit or Canon AE-1?
> 
> 3) Does the price sound reasonable?
Petri made a variety of cameras befor their demise in the late 1970s, with at
least two lens mounts... 
	My brother had a (Japanese) Petri Ftee which took OK pics, but.....
That was twenty years ago.
	Point: the screw mount Petri lenses should work O.K. on a Zenit, in as
far as anything can work OK on a Zenit 8-)
	If you stop to think about the risks of buying such a camera, remember
that repairs and parts may be non existent.
	No compatability with Canon systems.

Idea: if you're looking for a Canon compatible camera, why not the current T60.
Relatively cheap and uses the FD mount.

Or if you're starting from scratch will a few $Can, then why not the Pentax
K1000.

Best Wishes etc. felicitations etc.

David N. Chorley, sorcerer's apprentice
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rsl@gasco.gasco.com (Robert Lucas x4363)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Depth of Field preview - any 'cheap` SLRs?
Date: 17 Dec 92 06:23:59 GMT
Article-I.D.: gasco.1992Dec17.062359.10990
Organization: NorthWest Natural Gas Company of Portland Oregon

For those looking for depth of field preview in a less expensive package...

You might want to check out the Pentax P30t; basically the electronic
follow-on to the K1000 with depth of field preview, self timer, limited
programmed/aperature priority exposure (with lock) or full manual control,
and reasonably full information viewfinder with improved focusing screen.

All this (but alas, it needs batteries to operate) for $120-140, complete
with a "modernized" look and feel.........

Robert Lucas
Northwest Natural Gas Company
Portland, Oregon
rsl@gasco.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dxa8439@ultb.isc.rit.edu (D.X. Axelrad)
Subject: Re: grain
Originator: dxa8439@ultb
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 18:03:36 GMT

In article <1992Dec13.023018.18617@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
>In article <1992Dec13.043828.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
>>In article <1g647mINN78m@crcnis1.unl.edu>, kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting) writes:
>>> Hi,
>>>     I am trying to get some ideas of how to get a lot of grains on my
>>> picture or slide (for special mood). Any idea on how to get a lot
>>> of grains on b&w , color and slide film is welcome.
>>>    Thanks.
>>> 
>>
>>Ah, an easy one!! Kodak Recording 2475. Double the grain, or your money back.
>
>My understanding is that that film was discontinued in the USA something
>like five years ago.  Apparently it's still clinging to life in England
>and Australia...
>
>
>
>-- 
>:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :   Verbum caro
>:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :    factum est
>:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :  et habitavit
>:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :   in nobis...

Sorry Michael, Kodak recording film is still available in North America,
all larger photo retailers should carry it.  As to the use of grain for
creating a "mood", there are other ways (2475 recording film is a little
on the expensive side). "Reticulation" is a process which results in a
cracked emulsion, which gives a very "moody" super big grain effect.  I
suggest experimenting with a favorite B&W film.  After developing
normally wash your film in alternating 170 and 30 degree baths (this is
approx. have fun with it, experiment) then fix, wash, and dry etc...
What happens is the film emultion swells in the hot bath and when placed
in the cold bath contracts so quickly that it literally cracks.  I have
done this with Kodak recording film, it's really grainy looking.  If you
can get your hands on an old copy of "Photo-graphic" the Nov. 1990 issue
has an article on reticulation, pg.42 "Blasting grain in Kodak 2475
Recording Film" check it out.

Dan Axelrad                       internet - dxa8439@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology
Imaging and Photographic Technology
----Get High on Hobie !!!!!!----