HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Photographing people; need permission?
Date: 3 Jan 93 13:19:46 GMT

In <346@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:

			[...]

>: A little silly in that case, I suppose, but are there any "rules" that should
>: be followed when taking pictures of total strangers?

>No "rules", just your own common sense and intuition.  Try to feel out whether
>the subject will mind.  Absolutely do maintain a positive, friendly attitude,
>and if in doubt, just ask, "Is it ok if I photograph you?".  If you do this
>just right, you will vastly increase your chances of receiving a positive
>response.  Mostly, people just want the reassurance that you're not trying
>to take unfair advantage of them in a way that they will later regret.

What does one do in the case of a candid?  If one is trying to capture
a "spontaneous" moment.  It's not feasible to ask in advance.

			[...]

>: But is this true?  What if I'm taking a picture of a bunch of people walking
>: down a street in a big city?  Or what if I make a specific person the
>: unknowing subject of a photograph?

>The only real problems occur if and when you *publish* the photograph.  Note
>that by "publish", I mean "make public".  It doesn't have to be put into
>print.  Hanging the print in an art gallery is one way of publishing it.
>In this case, it is best to have a model release.

How hard is it to get a model release from a stranger?  Do you take their
picture, then whip out a form for them to sign?  What kinds of reactions
can one expect to get?

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: mbuckley@speshr.enet.dec.com (Michael F. Buckley)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Vivitar 2x for Hasselblad
Date: 22 Dec 92 23:26:35 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <1h5k55INNlin@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal) writes...
> 
>Well, I guess I got mine on the right day :-)..it is both mechanically
>and optically fine.
> 
>Brian


	Does anybody know if there is a Vivitar (or other brand) 2X
	convertor available for the Rollei 6006. If there is, what is 
	the quality and cost ? I know Rollei make their own 2X but it
	is expensive - about $1200 the last time I checked.

	Thanks, Mike.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: Disc Cameras
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
	<1992Dec31.054721.27130@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 21:10:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec31.054721.27130@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:

   In <1992Dec30.181543.23429@vestek.com> don@vestek.com (Don Labutay) writes:

   >Whatever happened to the disc cameras that kodak first introduced a few
   >years ago.  I don't see them being sold anymore.  I had one of their first
   >models and the picture quality wasn't that good. But, I was thinking a 
   >few years more, they would have improved it, maybe a 35mm disc with autofocus.
   >But it looks like they didn't. What happened?

   The quality of disc cameras wasn't that good because of the tiny
   negatives.  Now that 35mm P&S cameras have become smaller, have
   autofocus, built-in flash, power loading, winding, and rewinding, it
   really doesn't make sense to support disc cameras.

Actually I don't think the small size of the neg was the sole culprit.
My Minox submini camera had about the same size neg but took much
better pictures (better optics, flatter film plane, who knows).
The disc cartridge took a lot more SPACE than a Minox cartridge
though, so a disc camera has to be about the size of today's
small 35's.  Thus, disc cameras are pretty much pointless now.

   Indeed, there are plans underway to standardize a smaller 35mm film
   cassette with thin-base film so that smaller P&S cameras can be made.
   So, the pocket-sized P&S wonders of today will get even smaller!  (And
   the possibility for 72 exposures in the current cassette looms...
   Gads.  Bulk backs might even become extinct!)

This is interesting--who is going to offer 72 exp. loads in normal
cassettes?  Ilford tried this with a thin-base HP5 a few years ago
but it was very unsuccessful, perhaps partly because of the special
processing equipt. needed.
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Canon 28-105mm USM with Kitties
Date: 22 Dec 92 15:44:41 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.


Has anybody used the new Canon EF 28-105mm USM lens around cats?  The EOS
FAQ list says that the USM motors have been known to annoy cats, but I
followed both my parents' and my Aunt's cats around with it and they didn't
seem to mind.  While I realize this is by no means an exhaustive experiment,
it does make me wonder if perhaps Canon has changed the USM motor at all.
Has anybody else tried it?

Thanks,
Mike Coren

PS - I guess I should be certain before I go to a cat show in February!
PPS - Meow.

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.wanted
From: ron@vicorp.com (Ron Peterson)
Subject: Seeking Kodak Carousel slide trays
Organization: V. I. Corporation, Northampton, Massachusetts
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 18:28:21 GMT


I'm looking for Kodak Carousel Transvue 140 slide trays.  These are
circular slide trays for Kodak Carousel projectors that hold 140 slides.
If you have some you'd like to sell I'd like to buy 5 to 10 of them at
say, $5 apiece plus shipping.  Please reply to me via email at:
ron@vicorp.com or uunet!vicorp!ron
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
	<1992Dec25.004328.19626@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>
	<BztsnC.3L7@ra.nrl.navy.mil>
Date: 25 Dec 92 12:07:32

In article <BztsnC.3L7@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:

       You and the other guy who posted something about needing focusing
   aid because Nikon user can use MF lens obviousely never owned a
   fast lens and used it for a portrait type tight head shot with the lens
   wide open.  The split screen doesn't work when you try to use it one
   someone's eye.  With a horizontal split screen, you need somthing
   vertical to split, there isn't anything vertical in a person's eyes.

I'm the other guy, and I use a Spiratone 135/1.8 for this kind of
shooting at chess tournaments.  The horizontal split screen is not
that bad.  For one thing, you can always tilt the camera when you
focus.  For another, a lot of such portraits are vertical shots.
There's also always the microprism collar, which while less precise is
quicker and works with most textured subjects.  However, if Nikon
offered a diagonal split screen with a microrprism collar (I've seen
these on some other cameras), I'd probably buy one.

The electronic rangefinder in the 8008 is particularly a pain in
the neck, by the way, since it is an LCD at the bottom of the
finder screen and it's difficult to look at both the LCD and
the subject (normally in the center of the screen) at the same
time.  If it was a pair of different-colored LED's, as the F4 uses,
you could look at the subject while your peripheral vision
let you notice which LED was lit.
From: asanders@adobe.com (Alan Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Lithiums vs. alkalines (was Re: was going to get 8008s but EOS 10s recommended)
Date: 21 Dec 92 17:49:02 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

| Canon claims 150 24-exp rolls in the best case...

				-Jason Chen

You *might* be right, but my recollection from the EOS 630 brochure
is that the claim was more like *50* 24-exposure rolls, which is
about 33 36-exposure rolls.
				-Alan
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Subject: Shutterbug insight
Reply-To: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:33:25 GMT


For a good laugh read the article in the latest Shutterbug on taking
vacation style pictures near your own home.  The author claims that
many photographers fail to consider their immediate surroundings worthy
of photographing and describes his epiphany in which he suddenly noticed
that the view from his back yard had potential.  The view:  Pike's Peak.
The article has a few pictures in the Colorado Rockies to illustrate
his point.

-Michael
From: barnick@mesa.Kodak.COM (William M Barnick x73638)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Date: 23 Dec 92 13:45:11 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <BzM3E8.Fpz@brunel.ac.uk> Andy.Taylor@brunel.ac.uk (Andy J Taylor) writes:
>
>My Dad's favourite story about dumb photographers is that he once saw
>two people trying to take flash photos of the Moon.  Of course they
>were wasting their time because they weren't waiting for the light to
>bounce off the Moon before opening the shutter! :-)
>
>Andy

Now I have to top that one ... Once when I was walking through downtown
Vail, CO late at night I saw a man taking a picture of his family posed
in front of the downtown shops (tourist traps).  He had the flash set on
the camera to be a bounce flash.  So having nothing better to do, I
walked up to him and told him that he had better flip down the flash because
there is nothing to bounce off of except black sky.  Well he informed me
that he was a "professional photographer" and that the bounce would give
him better contrast.  Then he proceeded to take the picture.  Now just when
do ya think that flash will ever bounce back this way ???

See YA ...
WMB

--
***  William M Barnick ** Eastman Kodak ** barnick@Kodak.COM ******************
***  Electronic Imaging Platform Center * Color Scanning Systems Lab          *
***  B/65-2 D/733 mc01804   Rochester NY   14650-1804                         *
**************************** (716) 477-3638 ***********************************
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: yen@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Tony Yen)
Subject: Pro-quality Instant Cameras
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 20:17:56 GMT

At a company's holiday party last year, a photographer was hired to take
portraits in front of the ballroom. He had an instant camera that looked
like a medium-format range-finder camera, and the pictures he took were
really sharp. The picture sizes were about 3 inch x 4 inch and had to be
peeled from the jacket after exposure.

The camera did not look like anything I had seen before (for example, 
Mamiya with a Polaroid back). My question is: what camera might that be
and are there pro-quality instant cameras?

Thanks.

Tony
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Is 24mm or 28mm lens better?
Date: 28 Dec 92 15:02:25 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

From the question, I assume that you currently have no wide angles,
except possibly the 35mm end of a 35-105 zoom.

I have used both and prefer the 24mm. Currently I own a 20mm, but if
you are just starting with wide angles, the 20 is not for you.

The reason for my preference of the 24 over the 28 is that is gave me
a little extra impact in my photographs, particularly existing-light
interiors.  It made a great combo with my 35-105 zoom.  A 24 is as wide
as you can go and still be able to get coverage with many popular portable
flashes, like the Nikon SB-24.

Another hint on using wide angles like the 24:  if the filter thread
diameter is not much larger than the front element, get a step-up ring
for using filters.  That will cut down on or avoid vignetting.

   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
From: J.David.W.Reeves@dartmouth.edu (J. David W. Reeves)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: mail-order
Date: 28 Dec 92 02:44:37 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

I know this is probably a faq, but I don't follow this group too
frequently and don't have the answer.

My situation:
I would like to purchase an EOS Elan 28-80 USM kit for somewhat less
than the $775 (!!) the local Canon dealer asks for it.

The question:
I see all the mail order ads in the back of the photo mags with pretty
attractive prices for this kit ($509-$529).  I am aware that getting it
with a US warranty will cost more, but I need to know which mail order
houses have good reputations?  What is a reasonable price?

Thanks in advance for any responses
-Dave Reeves
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markiewi@phage.cshl.org (Peter Markiewicz)
Subject: Muslin backgrounds
Organization: Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 23:31:14 GMT

Anyone have any idea what type of paint is used on muslin
backgrounds? I would like to paint my own and don't want
to use the wrong stuff. Any help would be appreciated..

Thanks in advance

- Peter Markiewicz

  markiewi@cshl.org
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How do they know?
Date: 22 Dec 92 20:33:54 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

David Jacobson writes:

>I don't know about that, but I did see a dealer toss a pair of Leitz
>binoculars into the air and let them land on the (hard) floor.  Of
>course, it is hard to tell whether or not binoculars have been knocked
>out of alignment by just looking at them.

In fact, my nasty, suspicious mind creates its own scenario.  These
are the binoculars that a customer dropped on the floor, totally
destroying their innards.  So now the dealer uses them to demonstrate
how "indestructable" they are.  :-)  Naw, couldn't be.  No-one,
outside of NYC mail order, is *that* dishonest.   Naw.

Barry 

--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp. | "It's much easier to go to exotic places and | 
| bjs@uts.ccc.amdahl.com      |  capture spectacular scenes than to take a   |
|                             |  spectacular picture of a really boring      |
|                             |  green pepper". - Anthony Tse                |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well. (I.e.  My statments are mine, not Amdahl's.)           |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: limhl@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Hui Lin LIM)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 08:33:10 GMT
Subject: 8008s/801s Questions
Organization: HP Singapore Notes-Server
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Recently I had one of the 4 AA cells in a Nikon 801s (8008s) die
and leak all over the camera in the space of 2 days (it was a bad cell
as all the others were still at full voltage and had only been in use
for 4 months (light duty)).  I cleaned the camera up and replaced them
with a new set of batteries.  However when I turned on the camera
after that, activating anything caused the camera to beep and display
a flashing ERROR message.  Checking with the manual was a great help
:-).  Expecting the worse I took it to the local agent, but the
camera was returned to me in < 5 minutes with no charge.

My guess is that there's a reset capability that's easily accessible
but undocumented (I hope I haven't missed it in the manual) and was
wondering if anyone knows about this.

I'd also be most interested to find out if I can easily reprogram the
camera to leave th film leader exposed or must it be done by "authorised
agents".

Thanks for any help.

HuiLin
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ksampath@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Krishna S Sampath)
Subject: Re: How do they know?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 02:41:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec22.210628.14389@atlastele.com> briang@atlastele.com (Brian Godfrey) writes:

    ....stuff....
 
    We all know that Galileo's experiments with gravity were conducted 
    before the invention of cameras.  Cameras, it seems, tend to fall 
    much faster than the human body and so always end up beneath us 
    when we fall.  

   ....stuff....


this is just a corollary to murphy's "law of selective gravity" which goes
something like:

 an object that is dropped will go down so as to cause the most damage to the
 object or the thing it falls on.

(this is *exactly* the reason why bread always falls buttered face down.)

oops, did not realize this was not rec.humor.
;-) sleepily,
krishna

-- 
krishna s. sampath....graduate research assoc.....kss@ampere.eng.ohio-state.edu
ohio state u, electroscience lab......(614) 292-7981 (w)....(614) 292-7297  (f)
1320 kinnear rd, columbus, oh 43212...(614) 293-0913 (h)...011-91-4542-4127 (H)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: daveb@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Dave Boyd)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 17:13:30 GMT
Subject: Re: EOS battery use - Some hard numbers
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo

In rec.photo, ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:

>I just measured some current draw data for an EOS 630 with a 35-135 USM lens
>which might be of interest:

>Lens focusing (from infinity to closest focus)  200mA for 0.25 seconds
>Film winding (1 frame)                          600mA for 0.25 seconds
>Mirror fliping up & shutter release             350mA for 0.1 seconds
>Exposure determination (i.e. depress shutter
>release 1/2 way to give exposure reading)       100mA for 6 seconds
>Film rewind (36 exposures)                      450mA for 8.5 seconds
>Any function button                             100mA
>(current is drawn until function is set)

>Maximum current drawn was a 1.6 amp transient on motor start up
.
(stuff deleted)
.

     Good post, Bob.  Looks like exposured determination is a surprisingly
power-hungry activity.  That would explain my slightly-shorter-than-spec
battery life since I do a lot of "let's see how much light we've got here"
tests by looking through the camera and pressing the button halfway.

     Did you try to look at the energy consumption of the flash?  I think
that Canon specs the batteries for about 1/4 as many rolls if flash is
used often.

     Dave Boyd
     Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, Colorado
     Standard Disclaimers Apply

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: panoramic cameras ?
Reply-To: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 20:52:44 GMT

In article <THOMASS.92Dec26120625@ko.ldgo.columbia.edu>
>I am new to this group and this may be a FAQ. I consider buying a panoramic 
>camera and was wondering whether anybody has experience with the Widelux F8 
>(35mm) camera. I would appreciate some critical comments and advice ...

From what I have heard this camera is somewhat susceptible to mechanical
breakdowns. Used with care it should be ok though. You might want to get in
touch with the International Panoramic Photographers Association if you wish to
communicate with a group of about 500 amateur and professional panoramic
photographers. Many use Widelux cameras although I think the largest number
use rotating cameras that can cover in excess of 360 degrees. 

I believe the association can be reached through Richard Fowler who lives in
Orlando, Florida. If you'd like more info I can look it up for you.

andy

     .....                                                               \
.....|   |..                                                              \
            | Andrew Davidhazy, RIT, High Speed Photography Lab.           \
            :____________________________________________________ |'''''''\ \
            : IN%"andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu"    fax 716-475-5804  |......./ /
____________:                                                              /
                                                                          /
                                                                         /
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Anyone do their own C41 developing?
Date: 28 Dec 92 15:14:21 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

I used to do C41 at home when I was into developing (stopped because
I bought a new house and didn't set up a darkroom).  I personally found
the process of developing the negative fairly easy, once I got used
to the technique of temperature control.  It is a two-chemical process;
E-6 and b/w films have three chemical steps aside from washings.  However,
be aware that once the roll is developed, you need to print the whole
caboosh.

The c-41 chemistry is good only for a certain number of uses - you must
keep track.  Making color prints from negs required a lot of trial and
error to get the colors right.  ONce they were balanced for a particular
neg on a roll, the rest follwed pretty simply.

If I wanted to print just one image, then it was actually easier to
do color neg, since it did not require mixing up large trays of chemicals,
which stunk up the house.  Doing a color print (if I already knew what
filtration to use) required the color print drum and two shot glasses
of chemistry.  I did the actual print and film development in my kitchen
after the respective film or paper was loaded into its tank.

I stopped doing my own color work (as well as bw) do to time.  I do
thousands of images every year and it makes more sense to send it out.
My serious stuff goes to a pro lab in Indiana.  Home stuff goes to Motofoto!


   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: Anyone do their own C41 developing?
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
	<1992Dec29.192447.8920@news.weeg.uiowa.edu>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 02:23:37 GMT

Thanks to all who posted info on developing C41.  I should have
mentioned I'm not concerned at all about the cost per roll of
developing, though I don't want to buy a lot of fancy equipment
to get started.  My reasons for being interested are not wanting
to trust my film to the hazards of the local minilab, and wanting
to process images (nudes etc.) that might flip out the minilab
owner's blue haired grandma.  (Yes I know about the places who
advertise for this kind of business but want to consider home
developing for convenience reasons anyway).

I guess I might try using my bathroom sink as a tempering bath
if I try developing C41.  Might also try Polachrome, or just stick
with black and white.

From: allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 22:05:39 GMT
Subject: A Proposal
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)