HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Autofocus Accuracy
Date: 5 Jan 93 21:49:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1993Jan5.214958.9979
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1993Jan6.023753.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
>In article <1993Jan4.154320.10243@spider.co.uk>, mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:
>> OK, Netters, here's another one for you:
>> 
>> Will a fast lens on an AF camera produce a sharper image than a slower lens?
>> For example, compare a 70-210 f/4-5.6 versus a 70-210 f/2.8 (constant).
>> Suppose I want to take a picture at the 210mm end at f/8.  Assuming both
>> lenses are optically perfect and equal in every other way, would the f/2.8
>> lens produce a sharper image?
>
>Yes. If they ARE perfect, the f5 will give ~300lpmm and the 2.8 ~500lpmm.

How did you figure that out?

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Camera repair in Toronto
Date: 12 Jan 93 23:25:56 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Hi:

I am not sure what kind of camera you have and what you need done to it..but
if you are looking for a general repair person, I would suggest that you
call ALT Camera Exchange at 362-6400, and ask for Brian Lewington, and
ask him to recomend a good repair person..

You might tell him that I suggested you call him...I am assuming that this
is a camera of value - given the cost of repairing precision things, you want
to get an estimate to make sure it's worth while.

THere is also a shop called Kominek on 405A Yonge Street...ask for
Russel Forfar...they do repairs of all kinds and also deal in used and vintage
equipment..a visit there is an experience, I can assure you!

brian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 17:23:53 GMT
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Subject: Re: "Unmatched" filter coatings: new sales-droidism??
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Keywords: 

Tim Conrow writes about a salesman who said that he needed to match lens
coatings between filters and lenses to avoid producing a color cast in
the image, and gave three possibilities (two being taking sales
literature too seriously, and one being that he just might be right). 

bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) added some other possibilities,
the first of which was:

>4) He's a bald-faced liar.  (Related issue:  what does shaving have
>   to do with lieing? :-)

Well, I wouldn't have thought it would ever have any application in
rec.photo, but the following quote appeared recently in alt.quotations,
courtesy of tcrook@u.cc.utah.edu (Tom Crook):

	He that hath no beard is less than a man
		--William Shakespeare

;^)

Geoff ``Less than a man, but quite an honest guy, really!'' Allen

--
Geoff Allen          \  I don't enjoy writing. Some people do, but some
uunet!pmafire!geoff   \   people enjoy flagellation.
geoff@pauling.inel.gov \              -- Prince Philip
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: 430EZ question
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 14:06:58 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.174554.15239@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>, acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
|> 
|> To the best of my knowledge, EOS bodies do not support after exposure flash
|> underexposure warnings.
|> 
SUNPAK 433AF has a green light that comes on after the exposure if the subject
was within range. 

You may take the absence of the green light as a passive warning.

Jason Chen
From: lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: viewing slides..       35mm Slide-projectors.
Keywords: slides
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:32:06 GMT
Distribution: rec

Hi, 
 I am interested in not too expensive slide projector. 
I wish to know about what lens is optimal for projection: since lens 
is bought separately..
And what about the power of lamp inside. Is'nt high power bad for slides?
So what is the safe range..?
Any other important issue to be considered..? 
Thanks.
-lakhinder Walia
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: renault@CAM.ORG (Pierre Renault)
Subject: Re: Zoom Ring Loose on 70-210 USM
Organization: Communications Accessibles Montreal, Quebec Canada
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 05:50:40 GMT
From: mktjadx@gsusgi2.gsu.edu (Jeff A. Dilcher)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: WANTED: Large Amounts of Flashbulbs..
Date: 6 Jan 93 21:45:26 GMT
Organization: Georgia State University

I am interested in obtaining a large amount of flashbulbs.  Please email
me with what you have, and what you would like to receive per case.

I am also interested in smaller amounts of bulbs as well.

If you might have suggestions on dealers who would be willing to supply
bulbs, I would appreciate hearing from you.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff


-- 
 
  Jeffrey A. Dilcher                                   Atlanta, GA, USA
mktjadx@gsusgi2.gsu.edu                             Telephone 404-266-1585
      NSS #25914                                       II Peter 1:10,11
From: bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Personal to Greg Lewis
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:48:30 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Greg,

I got your info on "shooting prom pictures" and appreciate your going to the
trouble to send it.  Several attempts to reply have bounced.  Could you
try sending me an alternative address other than "greg_lewis@csufresno.edu",
if you know of one?  I might well want to get in touch to request names
of other "package printers" who might take 35mm work.  Thanks again,

Barry

-- 


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp. | "It's much easier to go to exotic places and | 
| bjs@uts.ccc.amdahl.com      |  capture spectacular scenes than to take a   |
|                             |  spectacular picture of a really boring      |
|                             |  green pepper". - Anthony Tse                |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well. (I.e.  My statments are mine, not Amdahl's.)           |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F3 quirk?
Date: 5 Jan 1993 13:03:33 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com

Friend asked to post a question here.  He has a Nikon F3 whose
meter & shutter speed sometimes seem to "stick" in the 1/80 sec
(flash sync) speed.  Even if he adjusts shutter speed to manual,
although the dial turns, the speeds as reflected in the meter, and
in the actual tripping of the shutter, remain at 1/80.  If he
then fusses a little with the shutter dial, removes the lens, 
everything is fine again.  Has anyone heard of this?  Is his
battery low?

I've had a couple F3's myself, and have never heard of such a 
problem.

From: allana@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Allan Armstrong)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 00:54:07 GMT
Subject: Re: Top Tip
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.photo

hamm@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm (Evil Spock)) writes:
>	Don't waste money on expensive zoom lenses.  Simply
>	stand closer to the objects you want to photograpgh.

Even better. Just get an 8x10" view camera with an 8" lens. Don't move
your camera position. If you want wide angle, print the whole frame for
the equivalent of a 24mm lens. If you only use a 24mm x 30mm piece of
the negative like in 35mm, you have a 35mm equivalent of a 200mm lens.
Thus you get an 8:1 effective zoom in just one lens. Pretty hot, huh?

:-)

Allan
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Which Are Sharpest After-Market 35mm Lenses?
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:37:17 EST
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: world
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

In article <122380048@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, mic@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Marc Clarke)
wrote:
> What are the sharpest after-market lenses available to fit an old
> Minolta X-700?  I know the old MD Rokkors are not very good lenses.
> My friendly local camera store droid would have me believe that the
> Tamron SP lenses are the best of the after-market lenses and are the
> equal of anything available in a camera manufacturer's lense line (not
> just Minolta's).  Is this correct?  Can anyone point me to a source of
> comparative lense tests?

Marc-

I think most of us who do not have access to an obtical laboratory, would
be interested in a source of lens test data!  Although some may have found
fault with the old Modern Photography test reports, they were virtually the
only source of test data available to most of us.

As I recall from reading those reports, there is probably no basis for your
belief that the MD lenses are any better or worse on the average, compared
to the lenses of the other major camera manufacturers.  While there may be
individual "dogs" in any camera manufacturer's lens line, the same would be
true of the after-market brands.

I've heard conflicting reports about the Tamron, which leads me to think
there is a little bit of "Hype" involved, and at best, they are only on a
par with the major brands.  It would be reasonable to think this, as some
rumors have claimed that Tamron, Sigma and Tokina have all made lenses
under contract to the major manufacturers!

In other words, if I had an X-700, I would look first to the Minolta MD
lenses, before looking to the after-market lenses.

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
From: besson@vill.edu (Morgan Besson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Which Battery for PENTAX Spotmatic?
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:28:00 GMT
Organization: Villanova University

I have a Pentax Spotmatic SP II vintage early 70's.  Does anyone know
which battery it takes (for the meter)?

Thanks in advance.
Morgan Besson
Villanova University
Villanova, Pennsylvania 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: martenm@en.ecn.purdue.edu (Stirfry  Man  )
Subject: WANTED: Dissolve programmers/Stackers
Keywords: av, multimedia, photo,slide
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 16:32:07 GMT

Greetings!!
Does anyone know anyone or anyplace who may be getting rid of slide
projector dissolve prammers or stacker racks or even projectors themselves?
I am looking specifically for the AVL Coyote or the Arion multi 4(?).
If You have any info on this either post news or e-mail to
martenm@en.ecn.purdue.edu
or
71204.1601@compuserve.com

Thanks,
chopticks


-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
 Mark Marten               | DoD #120   | "He is no fool to give what 
 Purdue University         |'87 FJ1200  |  he can not keep, to gain what
 martenm@ecn.purdue.edu    |            |  he can not lose." Jim Elliot                  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject:  Slide projector lens quality. Recommendations wanted
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:40:08 GMT

I have a standard Kodak Carousel type slide projector with a regular
Kodak lens (105/2.8?? curved field). I know the problems of getting
the whole slide in focus and the merits of "curved field" and "flat
field" lenses. However, even in the center of the slide with optimum
focus the image is still not great. Slides taken with real cheap low
end lenses and expensive Canon L series lenses look just the same (even
though they are clearly different when examined with an 8x loupe) due
to the poor quality of the projector lens. Does anyone have any
information on high quality projector lenses? Has anyone compared the
more expensive lenses with the standard Kodak lenses?

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: EOS battery use - Some hard numbers
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:12:58 GMT

In article <1it9fc$so9@agate.berkeley.edu>, aalto@ocf.berkeley.edu (Rolf Aalto) writes:
> It seems theoretically possible to recharge lithium 2CR5's if the charge rate 
> is slow enough so as to avoid the buildup of heat and explosive gasses.  After
> all, discharge is simply an electro-chemical reaction and should thus be 
> reversible if done slowly, say at a 30ma charge rate over several days.
> A simple, adjustable trickle charger should work fine for this.
> 
> Am I missing something?  I'd appreciate some input before I go blow up my
> garage attempting the impossible.  Has anyone tried this?  The key is
> to charge SLOWLY over a LONG period.  
> 


No, you are not missing something. I have posted on this subject several
times. You can rechange Li cells at very low current for very long times
(weeks) and get some degree of recharge. HOWEVER there are more potential
problems than blowing up your garage. You could get dendritic growth 
inside the cells which will result in an internal short. This could happen
after charging, while the cell is in the camera. This could result in
explosion/meltdown, taking the camera with it. You have to judge whether the
risk is worth it. I would not charge at 30mA, more like 5mA or less - with
a constant current charger and an overvoltage cut-out at something like
6.5 volts. Monitor the terminal voltage and stop immediately if there is
any kind of sudden change. A regular battery charger would be VERY unsafe.
Recharging primary Li cells is NOT recommended. Try it ONLY if you have the
equipment and knowledge to do it safely, and the capacity to deal with
the results if you have an accident. Taking the risks to you and your
camera into account, I'd just go buy a new battery. 

Disclaimer: Due to the large number of lawyers in this country I feel
obliged to point out again that I do not suggest that anyone should try
to recharge primary Li cells. It's a bad idea.

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Xref: sparky rec.photo:23480 dc.forsale:3321 ny.forsale:2304 ne.forsale:5794 ca.forsale:277 chi.forsale:2046 triangle.forsale:2317 austin.forsale:2988 tx.forsale:650
From: ewebber@access.digex.com (Eric Sean Webber)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,dc.forsale,ny.forsale,ne.forsale,ca.forsale,chi.forsale,triangle.forsale,austin.forsale,tx.forsale
Subject: CANON AE-1 FOR SALE
Date: 9 Jan 1993 23:08:47 GMT
Organization: DIVERSIFIED ETC. P.O. BOX 952 Greenbelt, MD 20770 USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: access.digex.com
Keywords: CANON AE-1 FOR SALE

CANON AE-1  for sale.  ABSOLUTLEY MINT !!

 $180.00 obo takes it.
  
 ERIC     ewebber@access.digex.com
From: mssmith@afterlife.ncsc.mil (M. Scott Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mac, of course (Was Re: IBM vs. Mac for stock business)
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:03:54 GMT
Organization: The Great Beyond


> To me, a highly portable computer is much more important than
> image manipulation capability.  (Though my portable is not my ...

Hmm..  Sounds like the Mac >PowerBook< would be the right choice then!  :)

Folks, the Mac is the computer to get, especially if your interests rely
in things other than trying to get something to work that should work
anyway.  That is, if you're into photography, running your own business,
writing, or anything -- then you will be happiest with a Mac.  If your
main hobby is taking apart car engines and trying to see if you can put
them back together again, you might want to consider a PC-compatible.

Ok, so I'm religious.  And this can stray away from photography.

PC compatibles are much cheaper than Macs, but that is the *only* advantage
they have now of days, and Macs are getting cheaper.

Someone posted awhile back that non-computer-literate people ("photographers")
go with Macs because they don't know any better.  I've been a computer-
literate person for a lot longer than I've been a photographer, and I would
have chosen the Mac when it first came out; today, of course, the choice for
anything image-related is the Mac, unless you move up to Silicon Graphics
machines.

Everyone's been struggling to catch up with the Mac -- Windows, OpenWindows
and X-Windows, etc.  The Mac's not waiting for them to catch up.  I'd
recommend the Mac wholeheartedly for anything related to image manipulation,
and/or if you're just concerned about the "running a business" side of it,
I'd recommend a Mac as well, because it will be easiest to use and you will
spend more time doing your business and less time struggling with the
computer.

(Russell brings up a good point, too; a 100x100 24-bit image on a Mac takes
up the same space as it does on a PC, or any other computer.  Storage
options (RAM, optical drives) are transparent to the computer; you can get
a Bernoulli for a Mac or PC (cheaper for the Mac now), doesn't matter.  So
it really just comes down to the computer and OS.

Let me struggle to get back to the point by posing a question.  Out of
curiosity, how many of you photographers use Macs, and how many use PC's?
What functions do you perform on your computer(s)?

Scott
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale,ga.forsale
From: ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (Eric Chen)
Subject: Re: 4 Sale: Canon lenses: >=$50 FD & EF
Organization: Clemson University
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:29:27 GMT


All the Canon lenses are sold.  only EOS 650 left.

Eric
From: drintoul@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (David A Rintoul)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Olympus OM4T problem
Date: 4 Jan 1993 16:21:32 -0600
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: matt.ksu.ksu.edu

Greetings,

I am hoping that someone can help me with an intermittent error
that I have been getting with an OM4T body.  Sporadically, when I
press the shutter release, the mirror locks up and the body starts
beeping as if it were in the self-timer mode.  It will continue
to do this indefinitely (i.e. longer than the 12-15 seconds which
is the normal self-timer interval).

The error is temperature-independent (it happened in Hawaii
at 85F and just today at 20F), lens-independent, and very
erratic (although the frequency of occurrence is increasing.  The
batteries are fresh, and if I put it into manual mode (i.e., non-
electric 1/60 second) the shutter works normally.  Any help or
insight regarding this error would be greatly appreciated.

Dave Rintoul

-- 
Dave Rintoul                Internet: drintoul@matt.ksu.edu
Biology Division - KSU     Latitude 39.18, Longitude -96.34
Manhattan KS 66506-4901                         TCN: id2418
(913)-532-5832 or 6663                  FAX: (913)-532-6653
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo CD
Supersedes: <93008.175727LENBC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center
Date: Friday, 8 Jan 1993 18:06:48 EST
From: Spartacus/CUNY LC NY <LENBC@CUNYVM.BITNET>

In article <8JAN199313465827@tm0006.lerc.nasa.gov>, glk9533@tm0006.lerc.nasa.gov
(Greg L. Kimnach) says:
>
>In my house it's the VHS deck that gathers dust. :-)
>
>And I'm glad that I wasn't part of the herd of sheep that went with VHS....
>>
>Greg

ahem Greg, doesn't it bother you renting those same "2" beta movies
everytime? :-) hehehehe

------------------------------+             All The Best,
Reply To:                     |
     LenBC@CunyVM.Cuny.Edu    |             Edward Galarza
     LenBC@CunyVM.BitNet      |             Brooklyn College Of The
     IRC: Spartacus           |             City University Of New York
------------------------------+             "Que viva el OS/2!"
"MASOCHIST: Windows SDK programmer with a smile!"
From: jwhitnell@cup.portal.com (Jerry D Whitnell)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: $#@^$% JOBO Reels
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 21:45:19 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

Andy Wai writes...
|One should alway practise with scrap film in the light before one does
|the real thing.  For me, the trick is not to force it.  If the whole
|thing grinds to a halt, backup off a bit and shake it loose a little
|and try again.

I found that pressing gently at each rib will free it up as well. Put your
thumb on one side of the reel and index finger on the other side of the reel
at the same rib.  Press gently and move to the next rib until it frees up.

Jerry Whitnell
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: 430EZ question
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:45:54 GMT

In <8JAN199314045656@iago.caltech.edu> dcl@iago.caltech.edu (Darek Lis) writes:

>I've just bought a Speedlite 430EZ for my Elan and I'd like to find out if 
>this combo provides a way to determine whether the object is within the 
>flash range. I know that exposure warnings in the viewfinder don't work 
>with the new EOS cameras (Elan, 10S etc.) However, I vaguely remember 
>reading in this news group that it is possible to determine whether the 
>object was within the flash range after the picture is taken. Is that right 
>or am I just dreaming?

To the best of my knowledge, EOS bodies do not support after exposure flash
underexposure warnings.

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markt@cup.hp.com (Mark Thompson)
Subject: Re: HELP:   WHERE CAN I MAKE A PUZZLE OUT OF A PHOTOGRAPH
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:19:09 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

I seem to recall Mystic Photo Lab having something about this in their
mailer.  As for the film, i would think that you would want to use a fine
grain print film since it may be enlarged quite a bit.  It may be more
important to pick the film for the subject though.  I would recomend ektar 25
if you can set up on a tripod and have your subject still, if the light 
demands it.

Mark
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo-Swap Theme portfolio Ballot
Date: 12 Jan 93 03:19:07 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
: In article <1iqom6INN77d@flip.cs.ubc.ca>, photo@cs.ubc.ca (Photo-swap central) writes:
: ...
: >   8 ( )	The urban winter.
: ...
: >  21 ( )	winter scenes 	- lots of snow where you are?
: Bit light on at the moment, Had any nice 40 degree days your way this week?
: 
: Due to the minor detail that the inter-net includes both north and south hemi-
: spheres, may I surgest that 'seasonal' themes be dropped.

Paul, you're ruining EVERYTHING -- I was already looking through my collection
of photos including dolphins playing with bikini-clad snorkelers... :-)

-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: Nikon F3 quirk?
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 02:01:57 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.161809.7277@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:

   Just after loading a new roll of film the shutter
   speed will be set to 1/80 until the frame counter
   reaches 1. Don't ask me why.

This is so you can load the film with the camera set in autoexposure
mode and the lens cap on, without having to wait a long time for
the shutter to cycle each time you advance the film until it gets to 1.