HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kwyatt@ccscola.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kershner Wyatt)
Subject: Re: Loco wobbles on track.
Organization: NCR Corp, E&M-Columbia, Columbia, SC
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 20:12:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan6.165033.4039@pellns.alleg.edu> pgifford@reis36.alleg.edu (Pete Gifford) writes:
>In article <0JPXwB2w164w@stauff.UUCP> ed@stauff.UUCP (Edward L. Stauff)  
>writes:
>> My suggestion: return the locomotive as defective, then save your  
>pennies
>> and buy a loco with a Kato mechanism.  You don't mention the scale, but
>> for N scale, the Atlas RS-1 and F-something are both excellent.  
>> Bachmann is, generally speaking, garbage.
>
>While I generally agree with your conclusion about N-guage locomotives, I  
>have an unusual situation on my layout.  I have 5 Bachmann locomotives, 1  
>LifeLike and 1 Atlas.  The LifeLike seems good, but won't handle some of  
>my tight radius turns.  2 of the Bachmann don't run worth anything, one is  
>pretty good and one is fabulous.  I bought the fabulous one used so I  
>don't know if there were any modifications made.  The Atlas, while good,  
>is much to light to pull anything, even itself, up any significant grade.

I love my Kato/Atlas RS-1, scale speeds from below creep to about 240 MPH
on a non-sophisticated power pack.  Pulling power is fantastic, I run out
of available track before I run out of pull.  And the detailing is pretty 
decent in the storebought N guage comparisions.  My opinion.

I also finally gave away a Bachmann Northern that was so out of scale and
cruddy.  It flipped at anything above crawl on a curve (not a tight curve
either).  I lost most of the siderods on it long before I gave it away from
having it fall off the track.  It wobbled down the track, I never got around
to checking if the wheels were out of round or if the flanges were too deep.

Another real winner by Bachmann were two Metroliners that I was given as
gifts by a well-meaning soul.  Starting speed must of been about 90 scale mph.
Fortunately, one lost the motor so I used it as an unpowered weighted 
companion to the other to slow it down to something a little more conventional.

The most wonderful sounding and pulling locomotive has been my old 1968/9
F-9 Revell/Rapido.  Good combination of weight, speed, and power.  I happened
upon another one for parts about 6 years ago.  Good to have it running
strong again.

All in all, I have decent luck with Atlas.  My 2 old Pacifics run well, now
if I could get them to pull a grade with more than 3 passenger cars...  My
0-8-0 is a strong, powerful loco, and my little old 6 wheel diesel switcher,
(you know, the cute little one that weighs about an ounce) move a few things
around.

Everyone has their opinions.


-- 
Kershner Wyatt
kwyatt@ccscola.ColumbiaSC.ncr.com

My opinions are my own and aren't necessarily my employer's.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: maclean@cs.mcgill.ca (Matthew SAMS)
Subject: Stores in San Diego
Organization: SOCS - Mcgill University, Montreal, Canada
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 23:00:49 GMT

Hello,
	I'll be attending the USENIX conference at San Diego. 
Which are the best shops for:
1. scratchbuilding supplies
2. interurban cars, other than Bachmann stuff which you can find
   anywhere, my interest lies in the early 20th century.

A street address, possibly with a cross street, would be most helpful.
I'll be staying at the Town and Country Hotel on University Circle North.

		Thanks
		Matthew Sams
		maclean@cs.mcgill.ca
		Jr. Systems Programmer
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: scott@comp1.cc.wm.edu
Subject: Public Domain or Shareware programs available?
Organization: College of William & Mary, founded 1693
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:07:45 GMT

I am new to the list and was wondering if there are any public domain
or shareware programs available for model railroad enthusiast.????


Scott

scott@comp1.cc.wm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: billg@bony1.bony.com (Bill Gripp)
Subject: Re: Just What I Was Looking For
Organization: LA&W RR
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 15:58:29 GMT

In article <93004.44802.L616015@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> L616015@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:

>    Now the question. I want to replace the LifeLine plastic cars with some-
>thing better, the question is what. I'd prefer cars that are already built
>seeing as the boy loves the train, but is still too young to build from a kit,
>and has no patience for daddy building them. So, any and all suggestions on
>what manufacture is best (rugged) will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in
>advance.

If you can use a screwdriver ( +B^] ) then get some Athearn kits.  These
are sometimes called "shake the box" kits because it doens't take much
more than that to put one together.  Almost everything is snap fit
except the trucks which you use a screw each on.

MDC/Roundhouse kits are a little more work, but not much.  Many of
Walthers kits are also this simple.

Find a local hobby store and check it out!
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: N-guage pcb crossties
From: hooverb@cs.wvu.wvnet.edu (Bruce Hoover)
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 06:43:05 GMT
Organization: Concurrent Engineering Research Center

I am doing some handlaid track in N-guage and someone recently mentioned
a method using pcb (circuit board) cross ties. My local hobby shop
claims he never heard of them (which probably means they are not in
Walthers). Any addresses, sources, etc. would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bruce Hoover

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: maclean@cs.mcgill.ca (Matthew SAMS)
Subject: Metal casting suppliers?
Organization: SOCS - Mcgill University, Montreal, Canada
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:03:46 GMT

Hello,
	I'm interested in making some metal castings based on some
masters that I'm working on, detail parts can get pretty expensive
when you want then in quantity. I have several articles on making
masters, molds, and casting from Military Modeller but all the
suppliers are british.

1. Does anyone know of suppliers of molding materials, silicone 
   rubber in particular, and of casting metals?

2. What are peoples preferences for casting metals?
   I'm making queensposts and bolsters for 36' truss rod boxcars
   as a starter project.  I'm making a mini-fleet of these and
   flatcars and gondolas; $13 a pop for these kits motivates me
   to consider casting and scratch building.

I will post a summary of all responses and if people wish, I will
post a summary of the articles I have from Military Modeller.

		Matthew Sams
		maclean@cs.mcgill.ca
		Jr. Systems Programmer
From: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM (Mark Maral)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Flex track
Date: 12 Jan 1993 16:17:39 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: repare.ebay.sun.com

If someone answers the question regarding the laying of flex
track could they also posts the results to the group or
cc me?  I am curious about this also.

Thanks

Mark Maral

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: rfweber@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Robert F. Weber)
Subject: Software tool for pike layout
Organization: Boeing Computer Services
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:31:36 GMT

Have any of you tried a software package called "Design your own RR" made
by Dill Software, Eugene, Oregon, and published by Abracadata, Ltd?
It's supposded to allow precision design, to scale (HO, N, O, Z, S and G)
layouts and run realistic railroad simulations.  Priced at about $40. 

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: steveb@westford.ccur.com (Steve Binning (Sales) STL - (314)569-1817)
Subject: Re: Laying Flexible Track
Organization: Concurrent Computer Corp.  Westford, MA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:22:59 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.165641.12709@uc.msc.edu> wes@msc.edu writes:
>In article <DAVE.93Jan12141700@dross.auspost.com.au>, dave@auspost.com.au (Dave Cole) writes:
>|> 
>|> 
>|> - When two bits of flexible track join in the middle of the curve, how
>|>   do I ensure that the join does not create a kink in the curve (this
>|>   is assuming that the track is always under stress in a curve).
>
>I try to stagger my joints to minimize any "kinking" problems.  Flex track
>properly aligned and held with nails should not show any kinking problems.
>

Another way that could help prevent the kinking problem is to solder
the rail joints.  You must take care not to melt the ties that are
near the joint that is being soldered.  Talk with someone familiar
with soldering small or delicate parts.

The above will work in most cases.  I have also driven a small nail
or tack at an angle under the rail.  I then use a small hammer to
bend the nail straight up. This will make a minute adjustment to the
joint.

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
Steven Binning (WA9NRB - EM48)		   I have been wrestling with reality 
Senior System Engineer			   for 35 years, I am happy to report
St. Louis, MO. 63033			   that I have won-out.
E-Mail: steveb@westford.ccur.com	   - Elwood P. Dowd
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: matheys@online.cern.ch (Jean-Pol Matheys)
Subject: RE: Marklin Dance Car
Reply-To: matheys@online.cern.ch
Organization: CERN - European Laboratory for Particle Physics
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 12:45:19 GMT


Before Xmas Elmer Beachley asked about Marklin's dance and panorama cars that
have animated figures in them.  Here is the information I have found on these
cars, that were indeed commercial products:

4998  DB dance car with five animated dancing couples, main lights, and disco
      light and music (?) being controlled through three Digital functions. I
      only saw it once in a shop's window,  the dancing couples and the disco
      lights were very nice to look at (I can't say anything about the music,
      I couldn't hear anything from outside and the shop was closed). In 1989
      its price was 328.- CHF (some 220.- US$).

4999  DB panoramic car with a moving waiter, main lights, and table lights as
      three Digital functions.  Not as impressive as the dance car,  but nice
      looking too. In 1989 it was priced at 304.- CHF (around 200.- US$).

Both cars came out in 1989, I think  (the 4999 is in the 88/89 catalog, while
the 4998 was in the "New in 1989" leaflet).  The 4998 is still in the 1991/92
German edition of the catalog,  but the 4999 isn't in it anymore.  The latest
French/Dutch  edition of the catalog does not mention them anymore  (nor does
the February 1992 Swiss price list).

Hope this helps.

--
Jean-Pol Matheys

CERN - European Laboratory for Particle Physics    |   Jean-Pol.Matheys@cern.ch
ECP Division  /  Data-acquisition Systems Group    |   matheys@online.cern.ch
CH-1211 Geneva 23                   Switzerland    |   online::matheys
From: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM (Mark Maral)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Request: Viewing sites
Date: 5 Jan 93 18:06:06 GMT
Reply-To: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
Distribution: ba
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: repare.ebay.sun.com

Can anyone tell me where  is the best area to observe train activity in
the Bay Area?

Also, where are HO layouts in the Bay Area that are open to the public?
I heard quite awhile back that there is a really nice one in Concord but
that is all I know about it.  

Thanks in advance
From: myers@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Tom R. Myers)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:02:00 GMT
Subject: Re: K-line beacon tower help
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad

> Can anyone give me a hint on how to get it to spin?

They are tempermental, but can be coerced into spinning.
Make sure the vanes on top are all adjusted to be narrow
slits, all pionting in from the same direction of rotation.
Narrowing the slits will increase the air velocity up to
the point where you close the slit off too much for enough
air to jet thru. Also, make sure you have a good bulb. Your
bulb just might be weak in the heat department. Replacement
dimple-top bulbs can be bought at most train meets and 
from most Lionel part suppliers.


trm
From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: rec.models.railroad Fortnightly FAQ
Date: 4 Jan 93 16:42:41 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1dbI028.30Rq01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> czl30@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Chris Lee) writes:
>Stewart Hobbies F- units use number 460, which is specially designed to
>give prototype spacing. They come with comprehensive instructions including
>how to remove the body from the chassis, which Stewart don't tell you.
>This probably invalidates the warranty. Once you read the instructions it
>is easy.

Two things to add:

1) The Kadee #450 couplers are great for the rear (flat) ends of the Stewart
units.  They are a WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY for the noses.  A #5 fits the
nose just fine (in Stewart's mount pad).  So the #450 is just a harder-to-
use, more expensive alternative.

2) Wannanty?  What Warranty?  :-)

Den

-- 
==========================================================================
  Dennis Lippert   -   macman+@pitt.edu    or    macman@vm2.cis.pitt.edu
The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Sutherland Hall Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
                             "Just the Macs, Man"
From: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM (Mark Maral)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Affixing ballast
Date: 6 Jan 1993 16:15:46 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: repare.ebay.sun.com

I am ready to lay some ballast on my layout and this is the first
time I have attempted this.  I have heard of a couple of different
methods.  One involves using water laced with dishwashing detergent
as the penetrating agent followed by white glue and water mix. The other
method I heard was to use straight  isopropyl alcohol as the wetting agent
followed by the white glue mix or matte mix.  Any advice on this will
be appreciated.

Mark Maral
From: sdm@pyramid.Corp.Sun.COM (Scott Mann)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Request: Viewing sites (Bay Area)
Date: 6 Jan 1993 22:39:07 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: ba
NNTP-Posting-Host: pyramid.corp.sun.com

In article <Baird_David-060193124659@dgb.storage.tandem.com> Baird_David@Tandem.com (David G. Baird) writes:
>In article <1icimeINNgmd@grapevine.EBay.Sun.COM>, maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM
>(Mark Maral) wrote:
>> 
>> Can anyone tell me where  is the best area to observe train activity in
>> the Bay Area?
>> 
>> Also, where are HO layouts in the Bay Area that are open to the public?
>> I heard quite awhile back that there is a really nice one in Concord but
>> that is all I know about it.  
>> 
>> Thanks in advance
>
>
>Finally, I can think of the live steam trains at Tilden Park in the hills
>above Berkeley. You can ride two different sizes. The big size runs
>continuously, the smaller runs whenever there's enough people.
>

Don't forget Roaring Camp next to Henry Cowell State Park in Felton.
They run a steam train up an 18% grade!  They also run a diesel (GP9)
from Felton to Santa Cruz during the summer.  Both rides are well
worth the approx $11-12 IMHO.


--


...Scott
From: tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Software tool for pike layout
Date: 8 Jan 1993 15:24:17 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: itchub21.cs.itc.hp.com

I'm also interested in this. I have access to both PC's and Unix
workstations at work. I'd like to design a fair sized pike locally. I've
seen it done in Autocad, but that's a little overkill!

Tom



( ___ )------------------------------------------------------------( ___ )
 | / | Tom Vervaeke           Email:tom_vervaeke@hp0800.desk.hp.com | \ |
 | / | Technology Specialist  Snail: 1900 Garden of the Gods Rd.    | \ |
 | / | Hewlett Packard Co.           Colorado Springs, CO 80901     | \ |
 | / | Colorado Springs, CO   Voice    : 719-590-2133               | \ |
 | / | USA                    Fax      : 719-590-2117               | \ |
 | / |--------------------------------------------------------------| \ |
 | / | Quote of the week...                                         | \ |
 |___|           Quote deleted do to lack of creativity !!!         |___|
(_____)------------------------------------------------------------(_____)
   ^                                                                  ^

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: L616015@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: Just What I Was Looking For
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 93 12:26:42 PST

    Hello all you model railroaders out there! Guess what? Another newbie. The
wife got #1 son a HO gauge railroad set for Xmas (with "The ABCs of Model Rail-
roading" for daddy, thank God).
    Anyway, here's my problem. I think I finally traced the derailment problem
to the plastic wheels and wheel carriages on the LifeLine cars ( wheels to
narrow, unable to adjust as wheels and axle are one part ). I did use a gauge
on the track and that's now ok.
    Now the question. I want to replace the LifeLine plastic cars with some-
thing better, the question is what. I'd prefer cars that are already built
seeing as the boy loves the train, but is still too young to build from a kit,
and has no patience for daddy building them. So, any and all suggestions on
what manufacture is best (rugged) will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in
advance.

Jon
aka The Space Ranger
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: wcsbeau@alfred.carleton.ca (OPIRG)
Subject: Bachmann locomotives
Organization: Carleton University
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 15:30:35 GMT

I have noticed a number of criticisims of the quality of Bachmann
locomotives, and I must say that with a few exceptions, I must agree.
The first exception is their new spectrum series, which seems to be
quite good.

The second exception is their (I belive now discontinued) streetcar
model.  While it is light and has only 4 wheel drive, it runs better
than almost anything I have (which isn't saying much, I realize).  It
runs about as slowly as I've ever seen *anything* else, and its 8
wheel electrical pickup helps it keep going around even the most
horrible trackage (the HO modular layout club I belong to is not up to
the quality of most).  The only problems I have had with it is that it
needs to be opened up for lubrication quite frequently, which is
annoying, but worth it.

I should point out (before you all flame me) that I do not have a very
large budget for MR, and that my most expensive engine is a B8a
switcher from Mantua.  This is (by my standards) and exquisite peice
of work, and I was most annoyed at how badly it ran until one day I
realized that I had accidentally cleaned out all the lubrication from
the motor.  I corrected this fault, and it now runs beautifully,
almost as slow as the streetcar...

One question: What type of couplers should I use on the front and back
of this loco?  I've been trying to fit Kaydees to it for some time,
but #5's wont work.  (Central pin to small, and I belive that the
pockets are too low anyway).

Just my $0.02 worth...

Christopher Allen
(wcsbeau@alfred.carleton.ca)

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: wes@uf.msc.edu (Wes Barris)
Subject: Re: Laying Flexible Track
Reply-To: wes@msc.edu
Organization: AHPCRC, Minnesota Supercomputer Center
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:56:41 GMT

In article <DAVE.93Jan12141700@dross.auspost.com.au>, dave@auspost.com.au (Dave Cole) writes:
|> 
|> The book says to use cork strips between the track base and the track.
|> The first problem I had was that the cork does not go around curves -
|> someone told me to cut the cork into two thin strips, then run them in
|> parallel.  Is there another way?

The cork strips I have seen in hobby stores are sold in "pairs".  There
should be a diagonal cut almost all of the way through the strips of cork.
You need to pull these two pieces apart.  The resulting pieces are easily
bent around curves.

|> 
|> Next problems - I want to use flexible track - I bought PECO.
|> - The track does not have any holes in the ties for track pins.  How do
|>   I hold it in place long enough for the ballast to do the job.

You may wish to drill small holes in the center of the ties about every
3 to 4 inches.  Small 1/4" nails can be used to hold the track down.

|> 
|> - How do I make sure the curve I create is reasonably regular.

Draw the curve on your board first using a nail, string and pencil.  Put
the nail at the "center" of the curve.  Tie one end of the string to the
nail.  Use the other end of the string to guide the pencil while drawing
a perfect semi-circle.  This line may be used as a guide when laying the
cork roadbed.

|> 
|> - When two bits of flexible track join in the middle of the curve, how
|>   do I ensure that the join does not create a kink in the curve (this
|>   is assuming that the track is always under stress in a curve).

I try to stagger my joints to minimize any "kinking" problems.  Flex track
properly aligned and held with nails should not show any kinking problems.


-- 
                                       o O O O O o o o o o o o o . . . . . . .
 __________    ___           ___      __                _
/_______|--`--|_ _|--=-==---|_ _|--,_|__|_             |-+-------`____________,
| ||_| /        -  |        / - \  |      || ________  |                      |
|_|___/------------|----__---------|------|||__|__|__| |Southern Pacific Lines|
|_|____________/-------{__}---------------{__}_______|=|_________     ________|
/_(o)=(o) ( )( )( )( ) [__]  ( )( )( )( ) [__]--(o)     (o)(o)(o)-----(o)(o)(o)
===============================================================================
Wes Barris                                                   PH: (612) 626-8090
Minnesota Supercomputer Center, Inc.                         Email: wes@msc.edu
Posted-Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 12:27:12 CST
Received-Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 12:27:56 CST
From: Jim Hiebert <jimh2@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: re: CAD for Model RR 
To: rec.models.railroad
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 12:27:12 CST
Mail-Station: MN51-1330
Phone: 785-4344 (vm - 8565)
Mailer: Elm [revision: 66.25]
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Organization: mailEnteringNews at Honeywell SRC

>Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
>Path: master!The-Star.honeywell.com!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uunet!bcstec!rfweber
>>From: rfweber@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Robert F. Weber)
>Subject: Software tool for pike layout
>Message-ID: <C0I6Gp.IHt@bcstec.ca.boeing.com>
>Organization: Boeing Computer Services
>Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:31:36 GMT
>Lines: 5
>
>Have any of you tried a software package called "Design your own RR" made
>by Dill Software, Eugene, Oregon, and published by Abracadata, Ltd?
>It's supposded to allow precision design, to scale (HO, N, O, Z, S and G)
>layouts and run realistic railroad simulations.  Priced at about $40. 
>
>

I've heard of two other CAD packages for designing model railroads.  I've
posted queries about the packages to this newsgroup before, with little 
response (probably due to the "newness" of these packages).  So, why not try 
again?

Other than "Design Your Own Railroad", has anyone tried "PC-Rail" or 
"CAD Rail" for designing a model RR?  One of these is supposed to have a
sectional track library that allows you to plunk down, for example, an
Atlas #4 turnout wherever you'd like.  Both of these (as well as "DYORR") 
have been advertised in _Model Railroader_.

Thank in advance (again).

__________________________________________________________

Jim Hiebert - jimh2@cfsmo.honeywell.com
Honeywell Commercial Flight Systems/Minneapolis Operations
          -          -      -       -           -
From: P.H.MIRICK@larc.nasa.gov (p.h.mirick)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: New Haven RR Models
Followup-To: rec.models.railroad
Date: 12 Jan 1993 12:30:58 GMT
Organization: NASA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: b648mac13.larc.nasa.gov

Are there any Hew Haven Railroad Modelers out there?  I would like to
detail a couple of New Haven U25Bs and need some help to identify some
detail parts.  My questions  are what air horns were used on the U25B and
what is the most accurate detail part available to model the signal box
that is just forward of the cab on the right hand side.
Paul  e-mail p.h.mirick@larc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad