HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, n8743722@henson.cc.wwu.edu (delorm david) writes:

| paulman@hkmeg1.enet.dec.com (HKO MANUFACTURING ENGINEERING  08-Dec-1992 1726) writes:
|
| >My car is an 85 Honda Civic with 56,000 km (Yes, 56,000 km).
|
| >Since last couple of weeks, it starts getting very noisy with a "long, 
| >long" sound when I make a turn (say a right angle turn).   The faster I go, 
| >the louder the sound.  However, I don't hear the noise when I am going 
| >straight.   I can't locate the source of the noise, can anyone of you
| >tell me what and why it is?
|
| Does the noise happen only on turns to one side?  Can you make it happen
| when driving straight by wiggling the streering wheel from side to side
| (and hence loading the frot wheel bearings)?  If so it is worth checking
| out the front wheel bearings.  The noise from the front wheel bearings is
| a kind of grinding that seems to match the speed of wheel rotation.

If the wheel bearings are going, it could develop speed-related "clicking"
sounds initially, even when travelling straight.  One might not notice it 
initially unless alongside a wall/bridge/embankment.  When the bearings are
finally gone, it becomes *loud* "snapping" sounds -- frightening.  Happened
to me.  Yeah, I know, I was young and foolish (and poor) once.

lawrence
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Leaking seals in master c
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:27:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Subject: Leaking seals in master cylinder - easy solution?
  >>>Date: 15 Dec 1992 00:01:13 GMT

TK>>>In my Ford, *very* slow and smooth braking triggers the
  >>>"brake failure" alarm, while a good kick doesn't and even
  >>>restores the system to normal. Apparently, it is a leaking
  >>>rubber seal in the master cylinder.  Does anyone know about
  >>>any stuff I can add to the brake fluid to soften the seals
  >>>and stop the leak?
  >>>I used such thing for power steering, and it helped.


You NEVER add anything OTHER than brake fluid to the master-cylinder!
You depend on your brakes to stop the car and SAVE your butt from a
wreck! ANY oily substance in the brake system will QUICKLY deteriate the
rubber parts throughout the system, then you will be spending a LOT of
money to have everything containing rubber replaced.
..
If a fading pedal is your only symtom then replace the master-cylinder,
there not that expensive or hard to install.
..
                                              Happy Holidays
                                                  Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
               
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: essbaum@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Alexander Essbaum)
Subject: Re: Wheel came off!!!
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 22:53:39 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <Byr2xD.HI4@mail.boi.hp.com>, wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
|> 
|> eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com  Topher Eliot writes:
|> 
|> I know of 2 other instances of wheels coming off.
|> 

last year a friend was driving home to maine with a piece-of-shit home-built
trailer and had the driver's side wheel come off.  he thought he had just
blown the tire, until he saw the trailer wheel roll by as he pulled over
to stop.

if this ever happened to me, i think i'd get in an accident from laughing
too hard :).

|> 
|> Wes Fujii
|> 
|> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
|> * Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
|> * Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
|> * wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
|> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

axel
From: sparker@zeus.calpoly.edu (Sean Lawrence Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Strange snapping sound
Date: 12 Dec 92 08:11:44 GMT
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo

In article <1992Dec12.074859.857411@zeus.calpoly.edu> sparker@zeus.calpoly.edu (Sean Lawrence Parker) writes:
>I have a 1992 ford mustang, every time I stop the car at a fast pace or
>down shift at a high rpm(2500 or greater) I hear a strange snapping
>sound coming from the rear of the car.I don't have to be going fast. It
>always happens when the car is slowing down pretty fast, and it doesn't
>matter whether the car is in gear or not ,the clutch in or not, going
>forward or going in reverse. 
>Some one was telling me that maybe it is a bushing in one of the lower
>or upper control arms in the rear but I'm not sure about that.Has any
>body had this same problem or any idea what this might be. Any help
>would be appreciated.
>Thanks in advance,
>Sean Parker    Email- sparker@morpheus.calpoly.edu

t could also be called a popping type sound.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: tranny problems
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 00:45:02 GMT

In article <101777@netnews.upenn.edu> george@mech.seas.upenn.edu writes:
>
>:   >>>shift properly (it is in third by 20 mph) and it has no passing gear. 
>
>
>:Check the detent/kickdown cable. Only cable from trans to the throttle
>
>gm stopped using cables in ~1974 ( anyone know why?, i like'd 'em )
>This car will have a vacuum operated kick down, but i dont see
>why a problem with that would cause early upshifting.
>--
>  /   george jefferson
>\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu

Not true. My '87 Pontiac 6000 uses a kickdown cable.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: mhodson@willamette.edu (Matthew Hodson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need help with a '79 Volvo - where's the elec. ignition?
Date: 13 Dec 92 19:53:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: willamet.Bz7r95.DtC
Organization: Willamette University, Salem OR

To All Fellow Volvo Enthusiasts,
   Where the hell do they put the electronic ignition component in a '79 245DL
- I can't find it!  Please respond ASAP, thank you.

mhodson@willamette.edu
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
A message from mhodson@willamette.edu (the !greatest univ. in Salem)         
H     H  EEEEEEE  DDDD    GGGGGGG    EEEEEEE  H     H   OOOOO   GGGGGGGG  
H     H  E        D   D   G          E        H     H  OO    O  G
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: TX_WAYNE@rrivax.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Johnson)
Subject: Oil Pressure Problem in '85 Dodge Aries
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20
Organization: Robarts Research Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 03:12:20 GMT

A friend of mine is having oil pressure problems with the 2.2l engine in
his '84 Aries.  When he first starts the car, the oil pressure light stays
on at idle and the engine is quite noisy for the first few minutes.  Then,
once the oils heats up (I guess), the light goes off, and the engine quiets
down.  I should emphasis that this takes a few minutes, not a few seconds
for this to happen.

He hasn't checked much yet - he suspected it might be a partially plugged
oil filter, but an oil & filter change had no effect.  

My first thought was worn bearings, but I changed my mind deciding that if
this were the case the reverse would happen - the problem would only appear
after the engine warmed up and the oil thinned itself out.  Guess #2 is a
blockage like a partially plugged pickup tube that lets the oil pass a bit
better once warm...

Any other ideas/suggestions? 


Wayne Johnson 
"w.johnson@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Subject: Digital Dash fading out
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 00:17:45 GMT
Reply-To: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester Mn

Today I noticed that part of the digital dash in my '88 Beretta GT is
fading.  The gauges (oil press., fuel, battery voltage) are the "normal"
brightness as well as the odometer and the tach graph.  The MPH graph and
numeric MPH indicator seem to be dimmer than the rest of the dash.  The
situation is the same if the lights are on and I vary the intensity
of the dash lighting.

I assume that this is the beginning of a failure.  How do go about determining
the cause of this problem?  Do the digital dashes just need to be replaced?
If so, how much are the dealers gonna charge me?

Thanks!

-- 

Eric Alter
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GM engine control compute
Date: 11 Dec 92 18:46:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1992 19:18:53 GMT
  >>>Keywords: activating long-term memory

BO>>>The car in question is a 1983 Chevy Scooter.  The "Check Engine" light tur
  >>>intermittently, but no long-term fault storage is made.  I recall reading
  >>>there's a procedure for activating long-term storage in this computer.  Wo
  >>>anybody who knows how to do this e-mail me the instructions?

BO>>>Thanks,

BO>>>Bohdan Bodnar
Scooter, as in Chevette? If so that one doesn't have a long term memory
and the Computer is a severly handicapped version of the C3 system.


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
               
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
From: slhmz@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Weird problem.  Need doctors advice!
Date: 14 Dec 92 08:35:09 MDT
Organization: Utah State University


Heeeelp.

I have a Fuel Injected '87 Pontiac and am having a very strange problem.
On cold cold mornings (-30 to 20 F) my cars starts up beautifully.  If
I start going, it slips into gear seemlessly and takes off wonderfully.

Now, as soon as the engine warms up to "normal running temperature" I
get extremely poor preformance and frequent stalling.

A friend suggested the spark plug wires.  He said that when it is cold
the water freezes to ice, but as soon as the engine warms up, the ice
melts into water and condenses on my bad spark plug wires, thus my
problem.

Another friend mentioned the PCV.

What do you suggest?

--
Travis Carter
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: capek@rtsg.mot.com (Tom Capek @708-632-6633)
Subject: Re: High Performance Pontiac Magazine Collection
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.antique
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 16:39:50 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.161513.15194@rtsg.mot.com> capek@rtsg.mot.com (Tom Capek @708-632-6633) writes:
>FOR SALE: High Performance Pontiac Magazines from first issue to present. 
>	  All issues are there, but will be sold as set only.
>	  Mint Condition. $250
>	  email: capek@rtsg.mot.com
>	  phone: 708-742-3722 (evenings)
>
>-- 
>+------- Tom M. Capek e-mail capek@rtsg.mot.com ------------ O      __ --+
>| Will I ever tour the mansion and score 'Fifty Million!'?   |\_____||   |
>| Probably only with the glass off and a cheating hand...    | |-----|   |
>+---------------------------------------------------------- / \|     | --+

 screwed up my home phone, should be: 708-741-3722
 
-- 
+------- Tom M. Capek e-mail capek@rtsg.mot.com ------------ O      __ --+
| Will I ever tour the mansion and score 'Fifty Million!'?   |\_____||   |
| Probably only with the glass off and a cheating hand...    | |-----|   |
+---------------------------------------------------------- / \|     | --+
From: dilmore@eastrg2.cray.com (Robert James Dilmore)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Engines
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 18 Dec 92 09:29:27 CST

In article <BzFHAJ.IDo@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Thomas A. Brunner) writes:
|> 
|> The subject of free-spinning versus non-free-spinning engines seems
|> to show up quite often.  If I may, the general answer is check with
|> the service manual OR a knowledgeable mechanic OR the car company.
|> My suggestion would be if you have some money and some time, replace
|> the belt, making sure everything is timed properly and put back on
|> correctly, and try starting the car.
|> 
|> 
|> In summary, I would suspect that most engines with timing belts are
|> free spinning.  Those OHC engines with chains probably are not. A
|> manufacturer may build an engine with a belt that does not free spin.
|> The manufacturer has a great deal of confidence in his design, and you
|> have a big bill if he is wrong.  With my engine, GM had a buyback program
|> going, so I got a new one--the company ate the $5700 for the engine, and I
|> got a new clutch installed for just the parts cost.
|> 
|> Thomas Brunner
|> Mechanical Engineering Grad Student
|> University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Autolab
|> tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
|> 
|> 

   You got it right the first time and blew it in the summation.

   If your car is an interference engine follow or exceed the manufacturers
maintenance schedule. The summation is absolutely 100% false. VW 9a 16v engines
will cost you a cool 2600.00-3200.00 if you wait for the belt to break.

   In summary, ALWAYS ask a trusted mechanic, not the NEWSgroup. Exceed the
maintenance schedule (my opinion). Don't wait for it to break,if it is 
interference. If it is not and you can afford to be towed from wearever you
are to wearever you are going, let it break.

Robert Dilmore
From: golder@homer.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?
Date: 17 Dec 92 18:42:57 GMT

In article <92350.094513KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>, KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu (Karl Nordstrom) writes:
|> harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer) says:
|> >
|> >>>The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs.
|> >>>As I recall ... the XJ-12.
|> 
|> >>A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!
|> 
|> >Given that those who vote with their tool kits, or wallets, have pulled
|> >more Jag engines and replaced them with chev, suggests that Jag V12
|> >powered Corvettes are a distinct rarity.
|> 
|> I'm not claiming that the Jaguar V12 is less expensive than a Chevy 350.
|> I'm questioning the Wall Street Journal's claim that the Jaguar XJ-12 is a dog.

This is what happens when things are quoted out of context (like this
particular Wall Street Journal article).
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 10:17:04 EST
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Civic drifts

In article <1992Dec15.140719.9719@mcnc.org>, brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) says:
>
>In article <92349.165500QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>>Hi everyone, I have a problem with my 82 Civic.  It drifts slowly toword
>>left if I release the steering wheel.  I went to a shop today and had them
>>check up.  They said the alignment (what I thought the problem was) was
>>good.  They also check the brakes.  All four wheels are good without
>>dragging.  After swapping the two front tires, nothing changed.
>>
>>They couldn't figure out the reason. Me either.
>>
>>I need help. Thanks.
>>
>>Ching
>
>Has the car ever been hit? This will do it. Did they check both the front
>_and_ rear wheel alignment? If the brakes aren't dragging, good. Also,
>check the suspension for worn bushings, ball joints, springs, etc.
>
>I once had a weird pulling problem with my '81 Civic. I rotated the tires,
>and immediately it started pulling. Couldn't see anything wrong with the
>tires. Took it in to be aligned. The guy said the alignment was ok, and
>swore the car must have been hit. I knew it hadn't been. He jury-rigged the
>alignment so it would steer straight.
>
>The next time I rotated the tires, the problem immediately reappeared, only
>in the opposite direction. I took it back in and they realigned it back to
>specs.
>
>I came to the conclusion in my case it was the tires. I replaced the tires
>before needing another rotation, and had it aligned again. The problem was
>gone for good. Must have had a belt shift inside one of them or something,
>because it didn't appear till the tires were about half worn.
>
>Ted Brooks
> ______________________________________________________________________
>| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
>| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
>|                               ________                               |
>|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
>|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
>|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
>|                              |________|                              |
>|______________________________________________________________________|


They checked both front and rear alignment. But you are right about the tire
situation. They are at least half worn, rear pair specially. They swapped the
front pair, didn't bring up any changes. I am not sure they did it to the rear
pair. Actually may be not. I'll try it to see if it is the case. BTW, the car
is never hit. This pulling problem didn't happen until last 2000 miles.

Thank you for replying.

Ching















Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dvd@eng.ufl.edu (Damon van Dam)
Subject: Re: Oil Priming System
Organization: DDF, Univ of Florida
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 19:16:05 GMT

STEVEN J. VETTER and others requested:
>Does anyone know of an oil priming system (they bring up the oil pressure 
>before starting to reduce engine wear) for a Chevy 350?  Also, where I can
>buy one, the local auto stores do not carry them?

MOROSO makes two such units, the Accumulator and Accumulator2.  The Accu. is a
3 Qt reservoir with a floating piston and pressurized air opposite the oil 
($325 list, $230 racer net).
The Accu. 2 is 1.5 quarts and is gravity fed ($73 list, $52 racer). 
Both are operated by a manual valve.  MOROSO also has an adaptor to connect 
it to small/big Chevy's, but a remote oil filter kit can be modified to work 
with any engine.  It also looks fairly easy to build an electronic actuator 
so the units can be stored under the hood.

MOROSO
80 Carter Drive
Guilford, Conn. 06437
203-453-6571      fax:203-453-6906

Val Breault replies:
> The single best piece of advice that I can give you to extend the life
> of your engine is to faithfully change the oil and filter.

I would agree that keeping clean oil and filter in the motor is FAR more 
important than a pre oiler.  The pre oiler will increase the life of the 
bearings but not the cylinders.  It must be noted also that the MOROSO 
products are designed primarily to provide oil to the motor when the oil 
pickup is left dry due to race driving conditions.  I would not spend money
on such a product for a street driven car.

Damon van Dam
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine Swap - 73 Chevy
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Dec 92 13:20:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> (That Malibu is a NORMAL size car.  It's todays cars that are too
-> small).

 My '60 Bel Air will dwarf it.  Alas, I'm still more used to my old '72
Capri and my wife's '79 RX-7.  I have a bad tendency to wind up with
half the passenger side in the adjacent parking place.  It's
embarrassing to have to get back in and shift the car over a couple of
feet.

 I don't worry about it at K-Mart, though.  Their tiny little parking
places are so narrow and short the Heavy Chevy takes four of them
anyway.

 Driving it is pretty neat, though.  I'll see some idiot start to
drift over into my lane, or pull out in front, or other hare-brained
maneuver, and then you can *see* their expression as they change
their tiny minds when they look at that wall of chromed steel advancing.

 Too bad it only gets 14mpg (city OR highway).  A buddy is trying to
sell me a brand new Mark IV 454/425hp in the crate for $1500, and I'm
sure the fat block could get 14mpg...  and if it didn't, at least I'd
have something to show for all the gas the thing swills.

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================
                                                                                                
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Distributer Swapping...
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 21:31:30 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

OK. Does anyone have a master list of what GM HEIs swap onto what engines?
I'm primarily interested in the possibility of putting an HEI onto a late
'60s - early '70s Buick 430 or 455; I have heard that the 350 Buick HEI
is compatible but would like to know of any others...

-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: brakes - help !!
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 20:15:30 -0500

 SJ>   Who checked your rotors?  The only way to tell if the rotors are not 
 SJ>   warped is with a micrometer.  If someone did check them, take it 
 SJ> somewhere
 SJ>   else for a second opinion just to be sure.

Actually, warpage (runout) is best checked with a dial gauge, not a micrometer.

P.S.: Are you related to Gen. Fred Vetter (another car nut)?



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dylan@cs.washington.edu (Dylan McNamee)
Subject: Re: Light and LOUD... I want aftermarket horns 
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 03:04:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec18.223615.13250@osf.org> kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:
>Dumb f*ckers oughta be glad there's laws making it a crime to run folks over
>no matter how stupid they are- any time you blow a horn at someone about
>to walk in front of your moving vehicle, and they suddenly wake out of their
>stupor and jump back like they've been electrocuted, you've got a prime
>candidate for Automotive Darwinism. 
>
>"Immediate reversal". Hrmph- I want it loud enough for "immediate cardiac
>arrest."
>
>	-Kenny

On the other hand, as a frequent cyclist, I've heard horns (directed at
me or not) which have almost made me lose control of my bike and get 
in an accident.  Most horns seem to be "tuned" to get through to the 
motorist with windows rolled up and stereo going.  Horns even louder than
that can actually be a hazard to the non-cocooned bystander.

Automotive darwinism or no...

dylan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech