Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
Subject: 2/3 Metal Wood Refinishi
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1992 00:00:02 -0600

>>>CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MESSAGE


3)Mask  off  anything you do NOT want to be painted in the following
steps.  I used some 3M clear plastic mailing tape (the  wide  stuff)
to mask off the sole.  The clear tape allows you to easily cut along
the soleplate bottom with an Xacto knife.  Be sure to press down  on
the  edges  of  the tape firmly when done cutting around the outline
and removing the excess tape.

4)Apply one coat of Primer/Sealer over the clubhead.  Use light even
strokes.   For  all  spraying, I taped the handle of the shaft to my
basement ceiling joist using duct  tape  and  this  allowed  a  easy
"twirl"  of  the  clubhead  while spraying.  This helps to eliminate
runs or sags in the finish.  It also keeps the clubhead at  shoulder
level  where  it's  easier to spray.  If just refinishing a clubhead
without the shaft, you can temporarily mount the head on the end  of
tapered  wood dowel and do the twirling with that.

5)Do NOT sand the primer/sealer when it is dry.   The  primer/sealer
allows  a  much  better  adhesion  of the next covering which is the
epoxy.   Now,  spray  on  the  epoxy  paint.   Follow   the   drying
instructions on the epoxy spray can.  The instructions usually state
to spray on a first coat followed by a maximum of 20 minutes  drying
time before the second coat is applied.

Wait a MINIMUM of 24 hours drying time before the next step.

6)Use  a  toothpick  to clean out the caulk out of the face grooves.
Be careful to just break open the paint seal on  the  lines.   Then,
use  soap  and  water  with  a  nylon  brush  (or better yet, an old
toothbrush) to clean out the grooves thoroughly.  Dry  the  clubhead
thoroughly.

7)Mask off the epoxy paint surrounding the club  sole  with  masking
tape(using  the  plastic tape outline on the sole as a guide).  Mask
off the rest of the clubhead with newspaper and tape.  Now,  use  an
Xacto  knife to peel off an edge of the plastic tape on the sole and
remove the rest of the plastic tape.  Use a  bit  of  alcohol  on  a
cloth to remove the tape residue left on the sole.

NOTE:  I  found  that  spraying  Primer/Sealer OVER epoxy paint will
DESTROY the paint.  But, Primer/Sealer is needed to  insure  a  good
bond  between  the  metal  and the polyurethane on the sole--so, the
next step is needed.  I also found that the clear tape applied  over
Primer/Sealer after a half hour WILL pull it off--don't do it.

8)Put a light coat of Primer/Sealer on the sole of the club. Wait  a
half  hour and then remove all the masking tape covering any part of
the clubhead.

9)Spray  on  the  first  coat  of polyurethane and let dry 12 hours.
Then, using 000 grade steel wool, rub over the entire clubhead.   Be
careful not too rub through to the color epoxy.

10)Wipe with a tack rag and apply the second  coat  of  polyurethane.
Let dry 12 hours.

11)Hand wetsand entire head using 400 grit sandpaper, then hand  rub
the head using steel wool. Dust off with dry cloth.

12)Apply any "water slide-off type" decals to top of the clubhead as
desired.  These can be purchased--Golfsmith  and  Golfworks  have  a
nice  selection.  It is usually best to activate the decal by laying
it on a piece of wet paper towel.  Immersing it in water removes too
much  glue.   Align  the  decal 90 degrees to the clubface(Golfsmith
advises it is better to align the decal slightly open).   I  used  a
"T" type arrangement with white line decals like this:


      |
      |
      |-------
      |-------
      |
      |

I hope it will help with alignment while out on the golf course.

Allow decal to dry for least 1 hour.

13)Wipe  clubhead  with  tack  rag  again  and  apply  third  coat of
polyurethane.  Let dry 12 hours.  Carefully and thoroughly wet  sand
entire clubhead with 400 grit sand paper.


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___
 X SLMR 2.0 X All wiyht.  Rho sritched mg kegtops awound?

 * Origin: Dark Knight's Table (1:282/31)