HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com>
Subject: Re: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 14:07:19 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink (3.2)

Sorry, but not totally true.  McDonnell-Douglas (a major engine owner 
and builder) has a study that found that as much as 80% of total engine 
wear metals in the lube sump are there as a result of cold, dry, startup.
There are always exceptions but I have an 81 bmw with 320,000 miles on 
it.  It has had synthetic 5w-30 in it from 1,000 miles on.  Synthetic, 
since it flows more readily, cuts time the engine runs dry.

good day.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: HP on a 305 (was re: swapping differen
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 02:36:30 GMT

In article 2700131@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com, wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>In <1992Sep28.023533.25545@sol.UVic.CA> Andreas  Tovornik writes:
>
>>>>305 can't make at least 150HP, that's pretty lame. Perhaps your engine
>>>>needs some attention. Or an early-'70s 350 swapped in... 
>>>
>>>Many of those GM 305's are only rated at 145 hp at best.  It IS pretty sad...
>>  
>>AT BEST??
>>
>>How come mine rates 215 hp SAE NET? Your average 305 rates about 170 hp
>>with TBI. The TPI version in my '87 Firebird is rated at 215. GM has a dual
>>exhaust kit with two catalytic converters which boosts that figure to about
>>230-235 SAE NET.
>>
>>I have never heard of a 305 rated at 145 hp. The two-barrel early eighties
>>267 was rated at about 145.
>
>The stock quadrajet 305 in '83 put out (factory spec) 145 hp.  TBI engines
>put out 165.  I agree that your hi-performance options (Hi-Output 195-215hp)
>and TPI models put out more but your run-of-the-mill engines (the ones that
>you find in everyday junkers) are going to be on the low end of the scale.
>The author of this item is seeking help with a low horsepower engine and
>I was only agreeing (sarcastically) with their assessment.  Most people
>do not have the ALL-OUT, DECKED-OUT high performance engines in their rigs.
>That's reserved for the select few that can afford it.

Nope, I couldn't afford it. That's why I bought it after it was REPO'd
from the first owner...got a good deal.

>P.S.  I got rid of MY 145hp 305 and no, it didn't do that well on a dyno
>      when it was new.  I believe that the hp rating was optimistic at
>      best!

Yes, and a reasonably used one like mine probably wouldn't put that much
out as measured at the rear wheels. Still, It's not really horses you
want when towing, It's low-end torque.

>      When was the last time that you had YOUR car on a dyno?  Better do
>      it BEFORE flapping your mouth too much!
 
You mean FINGERS, not Mouth.

Andy.

>FLAME OFF
>
From: ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is in "engine flush"?
Date: 29 Sep 92 20:23:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California

In article <1992Sep29.154629.10387@gvl.unisys.com>, rossi@gvlf9-q.gvl.unisys.com (Pete Rossi) writes:
|> What is in this stuff sold in 1 quart cans for $1.98 labeled as "engine flush"?
|> 
|> I had heard that it is similar to kerosene.  Could a quart of kerosene
|> (costing about 25 cents vs. $1.98) be used instead?
|> 
|> I have used one of these flushes about every third oil change for years but
|> wonder if there is something cheaper that might work just as good? 
|> 
|> I change my oil every 2500-3000 miles and when I had the intake manifold
|> off about 6 months ago it looked pretty clean inside - even after 15 years :-)
|> 

Just a word of caution: that I once used Oil Flush in my 78 corona,
and right after that my main bearing seal started leaking. Since 
then I am reluctant to use any thing else like "Honeys" or "Flushes"
in my car's engine, except Motor Oils, and regular change.

I have heard diesel is much better, and safe to clean the engine, but
never tried myself, because of my past bad experience.
From: shoroff@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bart Simpson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Time of the day and Filling up
Date: 4 Oct 92 04:14:19 GMT
Reply-To: shoroff@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bart Simpson)
Organization: Univ of Texas at Austin
Originator: shoroff@minnie.cc.utexas.edu

The question is, Does it matter what time of the day you fill up your gas
tank? I remember reading in one of the books(Auto repair for Dummies by
Dana Sclaar ??) that filling up during the colder times of the day gets
you more gasoline per unit volume you pay for. Seems fairly obvious, but
what kind of difference are we looking at? Is it just the atmospheric 
temperature that matters, or is it the temperature of the storage tank 
underground(in which case you'll have to wait much longer after dark
for it to cool down). Anyone know the coefficients of thermal expansion
etc involved?  

OR, Does it make no difference at all? 

Thanks
Srihari
-- 
|A very creative .sig has been ordered.                                      |
|			Will take 4 to 6 weeks for delivery.                 |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
|Wanna get in touch?                                                         | 
|If you're    -serious: 512 371 7409   -miserly: shoroff@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu  |
|                 -nuts   : 4413 Speedway #207; Austin, TX 78751          |
From: vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: ECM ROM chips
Date: 26 Sep 92 06:51:48 GMT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications San Diego CA

In article <1992Sep24.213616.7041@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu>, 
ejhupper@rs6000.cmp.ils
tu.edu (Eric Huppertz) writes...
>4-HOW would this be accomplished?  Altering the fuel mixture,
>or spark plug fire timing, or what?
More than likely both. Usually, these custom ROM chips that are being 
manufactured for different cars will do things like change the on-time 
for the injectors and the timing curve. Usually, Factory ROM's are set 
for more of a best economy/emissions setting. The aftermarket ones will 
change those settings for optimum performance at the sacrifice of economy 
or emissions or both, which{is why they may be illegal in some states. Of 
course, you could always switch before smog check time :-)!

HALE TELECOMMUNICATIONS - Public Access Node, San Diego CA 619/660-6734 HST
vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)   25-Sep-92 at 11:56p
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: newark@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.cruz)
Subject: BMW 325 service indicator reset it
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 18:37:56 GMT
Keywords: reset it

Does anyone know the procedure to reset the service indicator
lights on the dashboard of a BMW 325?

Service was done already on the car. This was not a dealer
service.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

++++
TONY
++++
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: Morning Stall on Honda Accord
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 18:45:54 GMT

In article 16173@access.digex.com, mhm104@access.digex.com (Mitch Markowitz) writes:

>     The car has bee to the dealer four times.  The last time, last winter, they replaced the insulator block under the carb.  they assured me this would do the trick.  It did for awhile.  Now, this morning, which was cold, it did it again.  Does anyone have any ideas?   Any help would be appreciated.

  Have you ever replaced the distributor cap and spark plug wires?
If they're as old as the car, do this and the problem will be solved.
Do it yourself. Dealers will soak you for more than it's worth.

Andy.

PLEASE IGNORE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: spikes@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Bill Spikes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Ranger Blinker/Brake Light Doesn't Work!
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:09:26 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA

Also check, by wiggling or activating, the hazard warning button/switch.
I'm not familiar with the steering column wiring in that vehicle but
if it is like a whole bunch of others, the haz-warn switch may be part of
the turn signal switch assy. Unless you are luckier than I ever seem to be,
and you wiggle the right thing and find the loose/bad connection very
quickly, it may be worth your while to borrow a schematic for that vehicle.
Try the public library for manuals. These show you all the connectors and
where they live in relation to the body of the vehicle. They also show you
when the manufacturer decides to radically change the color of the wire
you have been tracing for an hour! >%-(

You are using a sharp "poker" for testing these wires aren't ya? A dull    
probe will not only invite corrosion through the large ragged hole, but
the pressure and pulling on the wire may fix the problem temporarily and
then you get to start all over next week when the connection becomes
intermittant AGAIN! Nah, never happened to me.....


Bill
From: carlos@atherton.com (Carlos Chang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: jeepster
Date: 3 Oct 92 05:46:20 GMT
Organization: Atherton Technology, Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


I've got a 72 Jeepster Commando that is a bit of a hand full around curvy roads.  Great
for my Z, no so good in the Jeepster.  The steering box has a bit of slop to it (adjusted
all I could) but it's not that bad and the tires are skinny but the shocks are new, albeit
cheap shocks. 

I suppose a sway bar would help but I was wondering if this was an inherent problem with
Jeepsters.  


	thanks,


	Carlos
	carlos@atherton.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: enns@waterloo.hp.com (Roger Enns)
Subject: Re: Cold = Super braking power??
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:26:55 GMT
Organization: HP Panacom Div Waterloo ON Canada
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

In article GqI@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu, msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander) writes:
>
>My brand new Mazda 626 has an interesting problem. Whenever the engine
>is cold, I seem to have super braking power. The lightest touch brings
>the car to a halt. That's fine, except when the engine warms up, the
>brakes are noticeably weaker.
>
Are your brakes vacuum-assisted?  If they are, I would suspect
something weird happening with vacuum system, essentially
reverting you to mechanical brakes, with high pedal pressure
required to stop.  Unless you ride the brakes constantly, I can't
see how fading would be an issue in regular street driving.

My 0.02 cents Canadian, (0.0162 cents US)

--
Roger Enns (enns@waterloo.hp.com) Panacom Automation Division, HP
C-GIIV Dragonfly, 1979 RX7 13B, 1985 Colt, 1984 Interceptor 500
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Date: 27 Sep 1992 19:21:51 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu
Keywords: oil pressure

tuomasp@mits.mdata.fi (Tuomas Paasiala) writes:


>>        What does the oil pressure relief valve do?
>>        Can it cause low oil pressure at idle?


>It prevents too high oil pressure at high rpm. No, it won't cause
>low pressure at idle.

>--
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>| Tuomas Paasiala        | Never believe what computer tells you. | 
>| Tuomasp@mits.mdata.fi  |        Use RN to Read News.            |
>-------------------------------------------------------------------


It will if it is stuck open.

-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
From: lfung@pase60.Convergent.Com (Laurie Fung)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: COLD START Problem in the 82 Olds Ciera
Keywords: COLD START Problem
Date: 29 Sep 92 15:37:23 GMT
Distribution: na

The cold start problem in my 82 Olds Cultass Ciera had been fixed. It was
the IDLE AIR Control Valve jammed at the position (extend out) which
restricted the amount of air into the combustion chamber. It was very 
easy to replace this part and it cost $64.00.

My sincere thanks to all the people who sent me the suggestions and help
to fix this problem. Once again thanks a lot!!!

Laurie Fung 408 456 5848
093092
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes)
Subject: Ethnol - good or bad??
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 18:38:21 GMT

Hi,
  A friend of mine has an 87 buick and he never uses gas with ethnol;  he
says that it harms that engine.  I have a 76 maverick and I stick the cheapest
gas I can find.  Is my friend correct, is ethnol harmfull to some engines??
thanks a lot....

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|  Alex Fagundes -         Proud owner of a 76 Maverick :) and another      | 
|  fagundes@iastate.edu  -          believer that AMIGA rules               | 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


  
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:39:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Engine History
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

First find out what block you have, Olds, Ponticac, Buick whatever.  Some
people have been successful putting 455 parts in the 400's and if you 
aren't too abusive, I believe that they hold up pretty well.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: msingh@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (The Supreme Commander)
Subject: Cold = Super braking power??
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 21:24:36 GMT


My brand new Mazda 626 has an interesting problem. Whenever the engine
is cold, I seem to have super braking power. The lightest touch brings
the car to a halt. That's fine, except when the engine warms up, the
brakes are noticeably weaker.

My question is this. Is this normal? And if not, how do I go about
fixing this little problem. (I'm no mechanic, but I'm also not afraid
to touch things...)


				...Manu


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The Supreme Commander wishes you a Supreme day. 
I'm a Magic Man, oooh, I got the magic hands, yeah...
Don't mind me, I'm just attempting to dock.
From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1992 18:34:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Swapping Differential
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In <1992Sep16.203255.16224@mlb.semi.harris.com> James W. Swonger writes:

> Now, I calculate that pulling a 4500lb trailer up a 10% grade at 60MPH
>takes about 75HP, not counting added drag on the trailer, etc.. If your
>305 can't make at least 150HP, that's pretty lame. Perhaps your engine
>needs some attention. Or an early-'70s 350 swapped in... 

Many of those GM 305's are only rated at 145 hp at best.  It IS pretty sad...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 22:10:35 PDT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications San Diego CA

In<6271@m1.cs.man.ac.uk>,phl@fiveg.icl.co.uk ( Peter H Liyanage)writes:
>uh huh, but the 302 has lots of torque everywhere.
>peak hp ain't the whole story.
Try getting some decent revs outta that old 60's design pushrod engine, 
though. Besides, the Lexus powerplant has about the same torque rating 
(give or take a few lb/ft). Face it, Ford and other American automakers 
need to step into the 80's of design at least (the 90's would be nice, 
but let's not push it). The two best engines they have right now are the 
Taurus SHO's V6 (good parts courtesy of Yamaha) and the new Probe GT's V6 
(designed by Mazda). We were discussing V8's. Ford currently plans to put 
the same pushrod V8 into the 1995 Mustang. I suppose it will still have 
that same 60's live axle too?!?

HALE TELECOMMUNICATIONS - Public Access Node, San Diego CA 619/660-6734 HST
vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)   30-Sep-92 at 10:18p

***SAVE A NATION-- KILL A LIBERAL***
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Why Not More Reverse Flow Cooling?
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:21:43 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 It's cheaper and easier to mount the water pump on the block and have it
push the water in right there. And inertia does count for something when
your production is optimized for a block that's been around for years.
From the photos I've seen, the plumbing for reverse flow looks pretty
straightforward, although it helps to know what the heads and block
look like from inside and maybe have some spares to play with.

 Being that the thermostat (on my V-8s anyway) is on the intake and
the water it sees has already been past the heads, the heads are held 
at a pretty constant temp. It may be better for consistency to keep 
the heads at a known temperature rather than whatever comes out of
the radiator. Consistency and max power seldom coincide.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Low oil pressure
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 22 Sep 92 21:17:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I have an '87' Aerostar with 128,000 miles.  When i first start out
-> the oil pressure is fine but after the driving a few mile
-> the oil pressure drops to zero when waiting at a stop light.

 It may be just plain worn out.  Try going to 20w40 or straight 30 or 40
oil.  If that helps, then you probably have wear in the main and/or rod
bearings.  Do you have any noises coming from the engine when it gets
hot?

 There's a small possibility an oil gallery plug has come loose, but it
would require disassembly to find it.  For 128.000 miles, you're looking
at a rebuild anyway.
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible? (IROC vs. Trans-AM vs NASCAR)
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:42:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <507.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes...
> 
>-> >-> Mustangs, F-cars, Are there any others?
>-> >
>-> ><cue in choir music>  Buick Grand National GNX.
> 
>>      NASCAR.  IROC.  TRANS-AM.
> 
> Unless someone makes something called a "Nascar", those are racing
>organizations.  We were talking about cars.  If you were talking about
>cars, "Trans-Am" and "IROC" are F-bodies as referred to above.
>      
i

Well, actually Trans-Am, IROC, and Nascar are *all* race series
the IROC camaros are styled after the International Race of
Champion cars (hardly!), and the T/A after the Trans-America
race cars (barely!)


Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
"Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
                                                               --- Meatloaf
From: seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Subaru fails emissions -- followup
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:25:39 GMT
Organization: Rocky Mountain High School, Fort Collins, CO

Thanks to the people who sent suggestions for getting my Subaru
to pass it's emissions.  The first response suggested changing the
O2 sensor.  I figured that the car's got 100K miles on it, and
probably hasn't had it replaced since at least 50K, probably
never.  So, I replaced it, put in some SplitFire plugs to replace
the Bosch Plats that were in there before, and the dist cap and
rotor.  Passed with no problem today (went from 2.16% CO to 0,
and 468HC to 11).

The splitfire plugs are great.  My car hasn't run so well since the
first 1000 miles after I put in the Bosch.  Now that I see all the
talk on here about them not working well on some cars, I figure
that the Subaru with turbo and injection is one that it doesn't wokr
with.  At about 1K miles after I replaced the old plugs with Bosch
plats, the car started getting worse mileage and running worse.

With the SplitFires in there, it runs MUCH better.  It used to
surge when in turbo and that's pretty much gone (may have to do
with the O2 sensor, though).  It's got too much power now, though.
Turbo and FWD don't go together.  :)

Thanks again,
Sean
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist)
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Question
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 14:54:19 GMT

In article <92275.78610.J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> J066610@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM writes:
>Does anyone out there know if there is the equivalent of a choke (cold
>start vavle ???) for fuel injected cars?  I have been trying to narrow
>down a problem I'm having with my fuel-injected Acura and the symptoms `
>it is giving me are similar to a carburated engine with a choke that
>sticks shut after the car has warmed up.
>

Is this an Integra ??  What year ?  I have an '87 Integra and have been
fighting a performance/poor idle problem for over three years.  The
dealer has been totally useless at finding the problem (aka.. alot
of components like the computer, throttle body, etc have already been
swapped out with no change).

The car basically runs... and runs well if you put your foot in it... but
after it has warmed up and you're idling it...  it idles like a diesel
truck.  It's so rough the glass vibrates in the rear window and the
mirrors shake...   the idle speed also oscillates from the normal 850
(mine's a 5 speed) to as low as 500 rpm.  It repeats this cycle of high/low
RPM over a 20 sec period.

The problem seems to be related to ambient temperature... on very cold days
(< ~45F) or very hot days (> ~85F), it generally runs pretty well..  but
on average temperature days it's terrible with the poor idle being extremely
objectionable.

I have never gotten any fault codes from the computer but do suspect a
sensor has gone out of specification.  

The dealer has told me that this is the way it's supposed to run ! And I
have met with the Acura factory service rep who drove the car and also
said that as motors age, they begin to run a little rough.  Ridiculous!
Not this rough...

This problem started at about 45,000 miles and I've been living with it until
the current 86,000.

Please let me know if you find any answers...  I am certain that Acura
will be of no help.


Chris Elmquist, N0JCF
elmquist@SSESCO.com
73267.2711@Compuserve.com
(612)342-0003@work (8am-5pm CST6CDT)
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 23:10:10 PDT
Subject: Re: Current Arcs Everywhere
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

plug wires., yes!