HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: seg@cbncp7.ATT.COM (Scott Gordon)
Subject: Ceramic tile or hardwood? (was Re: wood floor or carpet?)
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 13:19:55 GMT
	<1992Aug27.191930.16686@crd.ge.com>

In reading the line of dogs and hardwood floors, I have the following
question.

I am in the process of making selections for a new house and I have to
decide whether I want ceramic tile or hardwood floors for the entry foyer.
Next spring I plan on getting a large dog - either a Great Dane or an Akita, 
both will easily exceed 100 pounds.

What is the advice?  Will the dog scratch a hardwood floor?  I also have 2
children under the age of 3 to abuse the floor.

My intuition tells me that the ceramic tile will take the wear and tear better,
but I was wondering if there is anyone with experience to prove (or disprove)
my intuition?

Thanks for the help.

				Scott Gordon
				seg@cbnews.cb.att.com
From: jongsma@esseye.si.com (Ken Jongsma)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Keywords: electrical wiring
Date: 28 Aug 92 20:36:59 GMT
Reply-To: jongsma@benzie.si.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Smiths Industries

In <1992Aug28.025024.7286@cs.cornell.edu> chrisb@cs.cornell.edu (Chris Buckley) writes:

>We all agree that 12 ga is to be preferred.  Are there people out
>there who think it's worthwhile enough to pay $1200 for it (the
>difference between the $2100 quote and the estimated $900 for the
>additional circuits I'm planning on getting instead)?

OK, if it's a tract house, there probably are other houses farther
along than yours. Drive through and find out the name of the electrical
contractor. Go to their office, explain the problem to them. Tell them
you'll provide the 12 ga material and a case of their favorite beer
if they'll install your wire and not tell the builder.

I'd think twice about buying a home from such a builder though. Remember,
you'll be dealing with these people for several years trying to get them to
fix things that they screwed up on.

Ken
-- 
Ken Jongsma                                          ken@wybbs.mi.org
Smiths Industries                               jongsma@benzie.si.com
Grand Rapids, Michigan                      73115.1041@compuserve.com
From: gheim@eng.auburn.edu (Greg Heim)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Alleviating Dampness - I live in a cave
Date: 27 Aug 92 03:12:19 GMT
Organization: Alabama Department of Tourism (NOT!)


I have just moved into a basement apartment that is _very_ damp.  I
have a fan blowing through at all times, but that doesn't help much.
Can anyone tell me the best way to kill the dampness?  If the best way
is to get a dehumidifier, can anyone give me some cheap alternatives to
get me by until I can afford one?

Thanks, 

Greg



                    /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\                A/~~\A
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Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Hardening the Target (was Re: Killing burglars.)
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 00:12:31 GMT

I sure hope that this thread is running out ... it is depressing.

>>A can of EZ-OFF just MAY stop SOME bad guys, but don't depend on it
>>for your life. 

>By the same token, don't depend on any firearms for your life either.

The only thing you can depend upon a firearm for is for raising the stakes
to life-threatening. Yours and the other persons'. To gamble at those stakes
in a given situation is a matter of personal choice. Just be sure to understand
the details. The original poster expressed a willingness to learn. Lets all
hope that it is never required to take that test.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: vo@microunity.com (Tom Vo)
Subject: help me locate this item
Organization: MicroUnity Systems Engineering, Inc.
Distribution: ba
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:40:55 GMT



Hello netters ,

I'm looking for a swing for my porch .  The kind I have in 
mind looks like a bench hanged from the ceiling .  
Any idea where I should look ?

Thanks 
--
     Tom Vo       vo@microunity.com       (408) 734-8100
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Re: Replacing Vinyl Flooring
Keywords: flooring
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Technical Systems Operations
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 19:23:04 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.163621.2216@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson) writes:
>	1.  I first wanted to remove the old linoleum before putting in a new    	    piece.  If I pull it up I've been told I must remove all of the                 old glue from the floor. I was wondering if there was a solvent that
>	    could be used to do this that would not affect the glue for the new 
>	    floor.

I recently attended a "class" at Home Depot on installing ceramic tile.
Several folk wanted to remove vinyl flooring.  I think the advise would
also apply to you.  It was:  Make long cuts in the flooring with a utility
knife, 4" apart.  Peel off/up the covering (it's sorta like thick contact
paper).  Pour a modest amount of water onto the tile backing (what remains
after peeling the surface cover off).  Let it soak in for a while, then
get a knife-edged scraper and scrape off the backing (it's sorta like
thick cardboard).  The Home Depot guy showed a can of glue solvent by
a company called Jasco.  He indicated the stuff is nasty on hands (use
neoprene gloves) but was water soluble and could be mopped up (!).

>	2.  Both people I spoke to suggested leaving the old floor down and 
>	    placing a layer of 1/4" or less wood on top of it. My concern with
> 	    this method is that the new floor would barely clear the bottom of 
>	    the door if it is 1/4" higher. Also the current floor goes under the
>	    plate that is mounted to the floor under the door(name?).

You should be able to leave the jambs but cut the door stop (both sides)
with a backing saw to raise its bottom level.  Plane and sand the door
bottom as necessary.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  On Attitude & the Immune System:  A sound heart is the life of the flesh:
    but envy the rottenness of the bones.  Prov 14:30
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Beware when prewiring for telephone
Date: 28 Aug 92 21:14:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Brooktree Corporation

In article <1664@shaman.wv.tek.com> alanj@endeavor18.tek.com (Alan Jeddeloh) writes:
[ good description cable level ratings deleted ]
>If I were prewiring my home for voice and thinking about a household LAN at
>the same time, I'd run 4 pairs of Level 3.  That gives 2 voice lines and
>a LAN available at any given point.  If I *really* wanted to be Ready For The
>Future, I'd try running Level 5 cabling.

If you *really really* want to be ready for the future, run your copper
wire inside of conduit and leave pull cords in the conduit.  Then
you can easily pull fiber optic (or whatever supplants that in the
future) cable when it becomes desirable.

BTW, the conduit doesn't have to be true conduit.  EMT, ENT, plastic
conduit, and some other stuff will work just fine.  Make sure that
don't use anything that would violate fire codes; some plastics emit
nasty fumes when burned.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net
From: SASRWW@mvs.sas.com (SASRWW)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How do I compute the maximum the bank will loan me?
Date: 26 Aug 92 19:07:00 GMT
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.

>Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
>Path: mozart.unx.sas.com!sas!concert!gatech!destroyer!ubc-cs!uw-beaver!news.u.washington.edu!milton!busey
>From: busey@milton.u.washington.edu (Thomas Busey)
>Subject: How do I compute the maximum the bank will loan me?
>Message-ID: <busey.714842542@milton>
>Sender: news@u.washington.edu (USENET News System)
>Organization: University of Washington
>Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 15:22:22 GMT
>
>I'm just a grad student now, but I'm anticipating a better salary soon with a
>real job.  We're doing some financial planning, and I'm trying to figure out
>the maximum loan a bank will give, assuming a given gross yearly salary.
>Does anyone have the rough formula that banks use to compute what the maximum
>monthly payment would be, and thus the highest loan a bank will give (I've
>heard something like 40% of gross monthly salary)?
>
Tom,
   As a general rule, your mortgage payment should be 28% of your gross
monthly income.  Your total debt should not exceed 36% (this gives you
some flexability with your mortgage payment...ie. up to 36%).
Ronda
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: Kitchen counters, Roof repairs, Carpets
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<1992Aug27.161738.1720@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
Date: 27 Aug 92 14:50:09

In article <26AUG199223034273@summa.tamu.edu> pzs3761@summa.tamu.edu (SIERANT, PETER ZIEMOWIT) wrote:

   How plausible is tearing up and replacing the formica, as opposed
   to replacing the whole countertop. (24 ft., U-shape, 1 sink hole,
   curved up to meet wall)

In article <1992Aug27.161738.1720@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) replied:

   On the countertop. There was a thread recently to the effect that you
   take this up with lacquer thinner....Put your new plastic down with
   contact cement per the directions....

But he said the laminate is "curved up to meet wall".  I assume that
this refers to a postformed laminate top.  You can't postform laminate
yourself, so he needs to replace the top to change color.

	-s
From: jim@n5ial.chi.il.us
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Date: 2 Sep 92 18:40:41 GMT
Reply-To: jim@n5ial.chi.il.us
Organization: me?  have you seen my desk?  : -)
Originator: jim@eddie

In article <BtyE47.3y9@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
>In article <1992Sep1.191610.29228@hou.amoco.com> jim@n5ial.chi.il.us writes:

>>yeah, I think his news software is screwed up somehow.  after all, we all
>>know that not even BIFF [is that bad]

>That's some pretty impressive news software - it not only repeated the
>same not in response to different messages, but it also changed the
>wording of the reply slightly (though not significantly) each time.
>Perhaps someone crossed the "vacation" program with a genetic algorithm?

hey, it's possible.  :-)  there are programs out there to analyze your
grammer, so why not have something like that accidentally built into a
news reader, which then makes little changes, and so on....  :-}  of
course, I don't know of any news software like that, but that's another
issue.  :-)

but then, perhaps it is easier to believe that the posts were really
from BIFF (or a BIFF clone), and he learned how to turn CAPS LOCK off.

anyways.....back to the real subject.....  my personal choice for an
anti-burgler weapon is a small hydrogen bomb.  very difficult to miss
(not that it would matter if you did), and it isn't likely the burgler
is going to sue you after the fact.  :-)  potential for a fair amount of
collateral damage is, however, quite high.

seriously, though, on the shotgun issue --- I'm curious as to why nobody
has suggested either a 10 gauge (too strong, perhaps?  to much kick for
an amateur?) or a .410 (too ``wimpy''?).  these may be dumb questions....
my primary use for a rifle/shotgun is for hunting (been a long time, too).

just curious....
   --jim

\input std_disclaimer                     % 73 DE N5IAL (/9)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"[...] the plural of `mongoose' ought to be `polygoose'." [Jargon file 2.9.10]

INTERNET:  jim@n5ial.chi.il.us  |  grahj@gagme.chi.il.us  |  j.graham@ieee.org
ICBM:  41.70N 87.63W            UUCP:  gagme!n5ial!jim@clout.chi.il.us
AMATEUR RADIO:  n5ial@n9hsi (Chicago.IL.US.Earth)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: silverfish!
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 17:23:17 GMT

In article <5946@transfer.stratus.com> amy@vineland.pubs.stratus.com (Amy McNulty) writes:
>This morning when I opened my kitchen cabinet,
>a silverfish scurried past. I caught him 
>before he could escape, but I'm worried about any
>of his friends who could be lurking in the dark 
>recesses of my cabinets....
>
>Any suggestions for a safe, non-toxic method for
>discouraging them from occupying the premises?
>(I don't care about killing them, I just want to
>keep them out of my house!) In the past I've used 
>various herbal/non-chemical solutions to get rid of 
>other pests such as mice and ants, and I'm hoping
>someone knows such a solution for silverfish.

Mothballs or the equivalent work well. Cedar chips work a little.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you always tell the truth, you never
                    | have to remember what you said.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: vandezande@inland.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Electronic Peephole
Date: 25 Aug 92 22:33:07 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <BtHwns.3u6@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
> 
> I'm looking for a source for a small video camera to be used as an
> electronic peephole in an apartment door. 

One of the Elmo video micro cameras is just what you're asking for - 17.5
mm dia x 52.9 mm length, bw or color.   They're at 70 New Hyde Park Rd,
New Hyde Park, NY 11040, (516)-775-3200.  Their nearest sales rep is is
Shamrock Electronics in Dayton, Ohio, (800)-767-1071.

An alternative to mounting the camera in the door is a fiber-optic 
borescope linked to a remode video unit.  Machida in Orangeburg, NY,
(800)-431-5420 sells such a unit (the MCV-7000 series).  They have a local
sales rep, JME Technology, 406 Westgate Terrace, Streamwood, IL 60107,
(708)-289-1969.

There are others.  Mail me if you need details.

Joe V.
From: mccabe@gdls.UUCP (Harold McCabe)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Garden hose
Summary: rubber:  not all that great
Date: 3 Sep 92 17:20:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: General Dynamics Land Systems, Sterling Heights, MI

In article <laa0vfINNeg4@news.bbn.com>, lgoodman@BBN.COM (Laurie Goodman) writes:
> What are opinions about rubber vs plastic garden hoses viz. durability,
> weight and cost etc.?
Sears had some rubber hose on sale, so I bought some.  I had heard wonderful
things about rubber hose, as compared to plastic.  But I was disappointed:
the stuff is relatively heavy, it is flexible, but to a fault, so that it
kinks easily.  I would suggest that you try a good quality plastic (actually
vinyl) hose.

Harold McCabe

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 13:43:19 GMT


In article <1992Sep1.191610.29228@hou.amoco.com> jim@n5ial.chi.il.us writes:
>In article <1992Sep1.145552.22352@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov>
>sns@bondi.jpl.nasa.gov (Sam Southard) writes:
>>In article <1SEP199209195367@utkvx4.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx4.utk.edu
>(Drevik, Steve) writes:
>>>Mr. Heston... can you read?  There must be > a dozen requests to
>>>move this to rec.guns.  Thanks.
>>
>>And almost all of them from one person....
>
>yeah, I think his news software is screwed up somehow.  after all, we all
>know that not even BIFF (who, thank God, has been silent lately...possibly
>killed while robbing someone's house <grin>) would intentionally post the
>same article to the same group 3 billion times in a single day....  or at
>least, followup every single article in that entire newsgroup with the
>above single article.
>
>obviously a case of broken news software.  can't possibly be anything else
>(again, nobody is *THAT* bad).
>
>just add his username to your kill file if it bothers you...at least till
>he gets his software fixed.  that should take care of it for the most part.

That's some pretty impressive news software - it not only repeated the
same not in response to different messages, but it also changed the
wording of the reply slightly (though not significantly) each time.
Perhaps someone crossed the "vacation" program with a genetic algorithm?
From: brad@slammer.UUCP (Brad Isley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: safety vs suggested weapons
Date: 30 Aug 92 05:56:34 GMT
Organization: Just me & my computers

In article <Aug.28.12.13.59.1992.9569@math.rutgers.edu> janowsky@math.rutgers.edu (Steven Janowsky) writes:
>In article <27AUG199213073583@utkvx2.utk.edu> drevik@utkvx2.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve) writes:
>
>In order to have different loads in the weapon you have to store it
>loaded.  Not necessarily a good idea.

Not true.  You can store it unloaded, and load it with different loads.
Why you would want to is beyond me.

>I think you want an easy to load weapon so you can store it unloaded.

Yes, if that's what you want.  That's fine.

>This would rule out revolvers for me.

Again.  Not true.  Revolvers are quite easy to load in seconds with
speedloaders.  Ever used one?  About as fast as popping in a clip and
working the action on a semi-auto.  I can reload my S&W 686 in 3-4 seconds.
You can too, with practice.

You can also have certain S&W revolvers modified so that they can only
be fired by someone wearing a special ring.  The ultimate way to piss off
a bad guy that manages to take your gun from you.  He's in for a surprise
if he tries to fire it.  He can't!

Please restrict your postings to topics about which you are knowledgable.
With all the mis-information being spewed by the anti-gun fanatics, we don't
need any more from this forum.
-- 
emory!slammer!brad   (Brad Isley)
+1 404 841-4169 Work			 Nopottopeein: "Howzit Goink?"
+1 404 925-9663 Home			  The gang: "Fine, just fine."
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wstef@hubcap.clemson.edu (W. Gregg Stefancik)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Organization: Clemson University
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:20:23 GMT


I suggest a Remington 870 (12 gauge shotgun) w/extended magazine, a short but
legal barrel, not too much choke, and pistol grips.  These guns can be
seen in police cars all over.  That is a good enough endorsement for
me.

-- 
W. Gregg Stefancik
wstef@eng.clemson.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: QUERY: Cash at substitute trustee auction
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 20:51:04 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

ortega@cactus.org (Paul Ortega) writes:

> I'm interested in attending a real estate auction and the notice of
> substitute trustee's sale says that the substitute trustee will
> "sell the Property to the highest bidder for cash".
> 
> Since the bids could easily reach the tens of thousands of dollars,
> are the auctioneers usually insistent on cash or will they
> be willing to accept a cashier's check?

Actually, it's probably a trap so the local sheriffs' department
can seize all the would-be bidders' money as "possibly drug related"
and buy themselves new cars.

I'm only half-joking.

Yes, they do take cash. Usually they'll take a cashiers' check or
one with a bank guarantee letter (which my bank doesn't write...).
One of the auctioneers I've done business with even takes my VISA
card, which makes it real easy to overspend.....

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: new house thermostat needed
Date: 31 Aug 92 13:35:29 GMT
Organization: St. Mary's College of Maryland
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
X-XXMessage-ID: <A6C79889720301D2@williams.smcm.edu>
X-XXDate: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:36:09 GMT

I have a similar, but different request:

  Anybody know where I can get a thermostat that'll control 117 VAC
(preferably by mail-order)?  My son's room is supposed to be heated by a
baseboard electric heater, but it doesn't work and even when it does it
just has a "control," not a thermostat.  So, we move a portable
oil-containing electric heater into his room in the winter.  Since the
unit is self-contained, its thermostat can only keep the temperature of
the heater constant, not the temperature of the room.  It would be really
nice to find a thermostat that I could mount somewhere strategic in the
room and use it to control the heater.  Any suggestions?


									-Bill Williams
									-St. Mary's College of Maryland
From: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM (John Fox - SunExpress IR)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Date: 27 Aug 1992 16:54:28 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: hooksett.east.sun.com

In article 1519@ceylon.gte.com, CMF0@bunny.gte.com (Cristina Ferla) writes:
> In article <1992Aug25.174501.9993@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> 
> cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429) writes:
> > I just bought a 15 year old house with a 2 car garage.  I want to paint
> > the floor with (I guess) an glossy epoxy paint.  Any suggestions or
> > problems?  Any particular product that you are aware of?  I want the 
> floor to look like what you see at sears autocenter -- slick as glass and 
> you can wipe oil up with no problem
> 
> I would ask at the Sears autocenter what paint THEY use.  Sears used to
> carry an excellent epoxy floor paint, but I was unable to get it this time
> around (I have painted my garage floor twice in 14 years, this was going to
> be the third time), so I had to special order some Benjamin Moore epoxy 
> paint which the catalog specified was particularly prepared for garage floors.
> 
> BIG MISTAKE!!  It looked great when finished, but the car tires have been 
> picking it up.  I am about to receive a free gallon from the manufacturer to repaint the floor, but there was never a problem like it with the Sears paint.
> 
> I like being able to sweep the floor and even wash the floor in the garage 
> without major effort or dust from the concrete.
> 
> Good luck with your painting!


The key to a good result (as with any painting) is preparation. You want 
the surface clean and ready to accept paint. When I did my basement, I
swept and washed it thoroughly, then washed it again with a mixture of
some acid (whose name I can't recall) and water. I'm sure you'll hear it
here, and ask any paint or hardware store.
Make sure you have plenty of ventilation, cuz this is serious stuff.
Anyway, the painting took about 1/4 of the total time involved in the
job. It did come out nice tho.

John


































Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house