HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '72 vw beetle info needed...
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 28 Dec 1992 14:45:08 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

In article <1992Dec24.005802.158@midway.uchicago.edu>,
newark@befvax.uchicago.edu (Tom Newark) wrote:
[other questions deleted]

> 5) how do you use the windshield wiper fluid?  I know about the hose to the
>    spare tire (what a great idea) but where is the button for it.  My wind-
>    shield wiper knob is missing the center and I assume you probably pressed
>    it to activate the fluid... Is this right?

Contrary to the other answers I've seen so far, *my* '72 Super Beetle had
the valve in the wiper control arm mounted on the steering shaft.  If you
have a '72 I would assume that you have a turn-signal arm on the left side
of the steering wheel and a wiper control arm on the right side.  By
pulling up (toward the steering wheel) gently it should activate the valve.

It's easy to check.  Look at the bottom of the ignition switch/turn signal
module on the steering shaft and look for 3/16" diameter rubber hoses or
just a place for them to mount.

My '71 SuperBeetle *did* have the knob-on-the-dash system as the other
responses have mentioned.  

I wonder if I got a weird hybrid...

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu) '61 panel, '68,'69 bugs
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
From: crichmon@sedona.intel.com (Chris Richmond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] spark plug inserts: what's the best kind ?
Date: 29 Dec 92 15:02:07 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
Originator: crichmon@sedona


In article <jgladu-291292080539@128.249.27.63>, jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu)) writes:
> In article <29DEC199200245147@venus.tamu.edu>, mthomas@venus.tamu.edu (Mark
> Thomas) wrote:
> 
> [lots of good advice deleted]
> 
> > If you're sure you don't want to remove the heads, after tapping
> > and reaming the hole and again after installing the inserts,
> > crank the engine for a while with the coil-distributer cable
> > disconnected and with the spark plug out, to try to blow out any
> > metal particles from the cylinder.

I had a spark plug insert installed in my old 40hp motor one time.  I the
town I grew up in, was this older german guy that worked on VWs.  What he
did was cover the tap in axle grease before tapping.  That way, the grease
would catch all the metal chips.  Any grease left in the cylinder would be
burned out.  As a  side note, in the carb, is an exposed U shaped tube where
the accelerator pump sprays gas down the throat.  Well, this thing 'fell out'
in my sisters bug, and my solution was to remove the engine and head to remove
it.  When I told Tony, he said that the tube was soft copper or brass and I
should have just rev'd the motor with the thing inside and let the motor chew
it up and send it out the exhaust.  I never really liked that piece of advice
much.  I really miss having Tony around.  He was one of those mechanics that
would let you watch, teach you stuff, do minor things for nothing, etc.

Chris
-- 
 Chris Richmond         |     Internet: crichmon@sedona.intel.com
 Intel, Corp. C3-21     |     Phone: (602)-554-8827
 5000 W. Chandler Blvd. |     This crazy is a world place. 
 Chandler, AZ  85226    |     My think losing I'm mind.
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mag@minnie.nic.kingston.ibm.com (Michael Gray)
Subject: Re: catalytic converters..
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 19:59:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: IBM Corp., Kingston NY

It's been fairly clearly demonstrated by the performance people like Techtonics, and APS,
that removing the cat gains virtually no horsepower on '85 and on models.  However, there are clear
gains to be made by replacing the stock exhaust systems (from the cat back) .

Furthermore, european vehicles without a cat, have another muffler (resonator) located in its
place.  This is, I think, because you need a certain amout of back-pressure for the lamda system
to work correctly. 

M.Gray
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (purplehaze)
Subject: Re: Splitting this Group
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 03:41:53 GMT

mark@wdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:

>A few days ago someone asked about how to fix a problem on their bus.
>I, a H2O VW owner responded from my past experience with air-cooled
>VW's (8 in all).  The result:

>> Thanks for the advise- I did not pull the engine and I was able to complete
>> the job in two hours.  Best thing, I saved $120!
>> 
>> Larry Carlson - ASU West Administrative Affairs, 0551, 543-3252

>If some of you purest air-cooled people want to go off on your own,
>you just may cut yourself off from some of the information you really
>need.  Then again, some people would rather learn things the hard way.

I think this is a perfect example of why we should stay together.  I think
that [A] or [W] is a great idea, but I've noticed only the air-cooleds are
doing it.  Maybe the water cooleds could start?





















-- 
Josh LaGrange                  *                    
lagrangj@unvax.union.edu       *           (cute stuff deleted  
Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
The views that I express are shared by very few responsible people.
From: dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help needed with my 72 camper van
Date: 28 Dec 1992 21:10:26 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu

I think you set the distribution to local, but I will try anyway.
 
My friends '76 bus does the same thing.  We were on a trip to the
Oregon coast and stopped at a rest area, and I was driving and forgot
and stopped the engine and it would not turn over at all.  We
pushed it backwards in reverse and it started up fine.
 
Just don't stop the engine, keep driving!


-- 
"There are hundreds of tiny balls in every machine, and hundreds of machines
in every pachinko parlour, and a pachinko parlour on every block in every
town in Japan; so there are billions of little balls falling forever, like a
chromium-plated hailstorm that never melts."  - from "Clive James in Japan" 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)
Subject: Re: [A] '71 Super Bug shimmies.
Date: 02 Jan 93 00:20:58 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Keywords: steering box, tie rod ends, wheel bearings


Tim from New Mexico asks about his shimmying Super Beetle...

They all shimmy to varying degrees. Yours sounds a bit excessive -
mine had a slight `jitter' in the steering at 55 mph, getting slightly
worse up to 75. You have the springy body-mounted strut towers
to thank...your steering play is way off (max 1", please), and you
may indeed need a new steering box. If adjusting the steering to
eliminate the play removes the self-centering action of the steering,
you definitely do need a new steering box. And the price is one of
the delights of Super Beetle ownership. Sorry.

Are you sure your balljoints are OK? How about your strut towers - rust
is out of the question, as well as dangerous. How about the bottom,
where they bolt to the frame? How's your wheel alignment? The shimmy
may have trashed your tie-rods, but if the wheel alignment is right,
loose tie-rod ends will cause vague steering before they make things
shimmy...how's your wheel balance?

Happy new year!

...laura
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jennings@chainsaw.fishkill.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: trusty old jetta needs help....	
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 17:20:03 GMT
Reply-To: jennings@chainsaw.fishkill.ibm.com ()
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <1992Dec31.062934.18758@walter.cray.com>,
dilmore@eastrg2.cray.com (Robert James Dilmore) writes:
> 
> Don't worry about your trusty old Jetta, it's still trusty.  What you are
> seeing is a little blow-by plus oil getting thrown around in your valve
> cover. This in turn gets blown out of the PCV-like arrangement on the top
> of your valve cover.

Your post and several e-mail replies all agree!

> You can install a splash guard inside your valve cover
> to prevent this. Check with the dealer for this part.

Well, I called the local VW dealer, and he has these, $30 for the guard
plus $10 for the gasket. He had another customer buy one of these for an
old Rabbit (same problem), but the guy never got back in touch with him,
so he doesn't know if it did the trick. BTW, these guards were installed
as OEM on the original GTI's.

Several e-mail replies suggested checking the baffles and mesh screens
built into the valve cover, near the pvc breather pipe. So, I'm going to
pull the valve cover this weekend, and check out the inside. If it's all
gunked up, I'll head to out and try to find a good one from a junker. If
this doesn't work, I'll go for the splash guard. In any case, I'll post
the fix, when I find it!


Thanks for the replies, I know have a place to start!	

Bill         wrj@vnet.ibm.com


> No bravery required
> for installation...just patience.
> 
> You could install a K&N oil type air filter and then it would be self
oiling:)
> 
> Robert Dilmore
> dilmore@cray.com
From: dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '72 vw beetle info needed...
Date: 29 Dec 1992 07:58:05 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu

>In article <1992Dec24.005802.158@midway.uchicago.edu>, newark@befvax.uchicago.edu                                  writes...
>> 
>>3) there is a little red light/button next to the fan switch which lights 
>>   up when pressed.  It is marked with a letter B.... The light goes out 
>>   when it is released... what is this for?  I've pressed it and nothing 
>>   seems to have happened.

This is the warning light for your dual-circuit brake system.  If
either of the circuits lose pressure, the light should go on.  They
made it able to be tested by pressing on the lens.

Later VWs had it so the light would go on briefly at startup.

David
1970 Squareback

(I say we create rec.autos.vw.air!!!)

-- 
"There are hundreds of tiny balls in every machine, and hundreds of machines
in every pachinko parlour, and a pachinko parlour on every block in every
town in Japan; so there are billions of little balls falling forever, like a
chromium-plated hailstorm that never melts."  - from "Clive James in Japan"
From: uzot@mcl.ucsb.edu (Jason S. White)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Tires rec. for FOX
Keywords: vw fox tires
Date: 25 Dec 92 21:27:15 GMT

What is the best tires for a 1990 VW Fox for driving on bad freeways in So. Cal?
I know this has been asked a million times, but I just regained access to the 
usenet. 

The Pirellis that came with the Fox have really worn down unevenly, even though
I kept their pressures constant at what they should be. I'm not very happy with
them at all. 

The tires some people have recommended have been Michelens and Toyo, but I'm
not familiar with either. Winstons have also been suggested and I was somewhat
happy with them when I had my old Bronco II.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jason 


--
 Jason S. White        | uzot@mcl.ucsb.edu        | "My mother used to say,
 Evaluation Technician | jsw@physics.ucsb.edu     | 'You're the boy that can
 Intellimation         | 3025intl@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu| enjoy invisibility.'"
 (805)968-2291 x339    | zotboy@aol.com     	  | Secret Girls by Sonic Youth
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: where does the pre-heating hose go?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 13:46:13 GMT

In article <MUCIT.92Dec28224132@slate.cs.rochester.edu>, mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu) writes:
>In article <C001ME.Kon@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>In article <1992Dec28.233931.13315@cs.rochester.edu>, mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu) writes:
>[stuff deleted]
>>>The problem is I can't find the place where the hose came off!  Yes I know
>>>one end goes to the thermostat housing on the air filter box.  But where 
>>>does the other end go?  
>[stuff deleted]
>>   The other end of the hose attaches to an air intake located below
>>   the driver's side of the radiator.
>
>Thanks, but I think that's the cold air hose.  That's intact on
>my car -- I'm missing the one that goes to the other opening on the 
>thermostat housing.  Bentley shows it disappearing behind the engine but
>desn't say where it goes.  I'd assumed it would somehow go to the heater box,
>but that doesn't seem to be the case.
>Are you missing that one too?
>
>>   Ric
>
>-M
Ok, sorry....the hose sould attach to a fitting that is on your
exhaust manifold. This fitting is slightly smaller in diameter
than your hose, and is bolted to the manifold by a couple of
10 mm bolts.

It may be missing however, because of the number of heat cycles
this piece of sheet metal goes thru, it eventually cracks and
rusts. When it does it vibrates, and it either falls off or
gets removed. If it is gone, don't worry. Get some of the
aluminium type of pre-heat hose, run it to the manifold, and
let it sit on top of the manifold.

Ric
From: daris_b1@verifone.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Renewing pushrod tubes in a 77 bus engineexit
Date: 24 Dec 92 02:24:41 -1000
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Organization: VeriFone Inc., Honolulu HI

In article <1992Dec16.180003.21793@brtph560.bnr.ca>, mdailey@bnr.ca (Matthew N. Dailey) writes:
> In article <1992Dec16.021643.5621@daffy.cs.wisc.edu>, stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson) writes:
> |> Hi all-
> |> As I have mentioned before, I have recently acquired a 77 camper.  Most of the 
> |> problems have been fixed, but I have one remaining one that I want to fix soon.
> |> After the engine has run, as it is cooling down, I get little puddles of oil on
> |> either side of the engine.  Futher looking has convinced me that the leaks are
> |> at the point where one or more of the push rod tubes meet the heads (I have
> |> ruled out the valve cover gaskets already)  According to the Haynes manual, I
> |> can replace these with some kind of 'telescoping' tubes.  Any experience with 
> |> this?  In any case, can anyone recommend a way to stop the leak that does not
> |> involve pulling the engine?
> |> Thanks,
> |> Phil
> |> 
> 
> Phil,
> 
> You probably don't need to replace your pushrod tubes at all --
> just get a new set of pushrod tube seals.  To get the tubes
> out, you need to remove the valve covers and rocker assemblies.
> Then you pull the pushrods out of their tubes then the tubes
> can be pulled out through the head with a jerk of the hand.
> 
> The seals are little O-rings for each end of each tube.
> 
Get the VITON seals. They are  high temperature seals that are
available from the same VW parts houses.  I use FORM-A-GASKET
aviation sealer, avaliable a most auto parts stores, to seal
leaks.  If the tubes were sealed in with sealer, you might need
to grip the tubes, LIGHTLY, with channel lock pliers to remove.

> -- 
> 
> Matt Dailey
> 
Regards
   Daris
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mac9067@cs.rit.edu (Mark Collien)
Subject: Re: The VW domino effect
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 15:30:24 GMT

In article <BzozvJ.27p@news.ucs.mun.ca>, ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Ed
Reddy) wrote:
> 
> In article <1h7f11INNcud@transfer.stratus.com> savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia) writes:  
> >
> (lots deleted)
>  
> 4 HOURS TO REPAIR A CV JOINT? THATS A RIPOFF!!!!!
>  
> A CV joint takes 1 hour. Not two, not three or four, not one and a half
> (unless your CV joint has fused) ONE HOUR.
> Where are you getting your work done? Are they removing the bolts by
> hand? That's amazing. A CV joint costs $100 for the part and another
> $20-30 dollars for the boot kits... but 4 hours? Talk about talking
> someone to town...
>  
> Kind of reminds me of what a mechanic at the dealer told me a tie rod
> end would take to replace. 2 hours. My local garage did it in a half an
> hour. And another half hour to give a 4 wheel alignment. Cost? $45 end,
> $8 boot, $50 alignment. + taxes... 122.00. Dealer estimate... $275.00
>  
> Then again, some mechanics give worst time ratios. Ie. 2 hours max. They
> might do it in half an hour.
> 
I would guess they just use the flat rate manual for their time/billing,
which is the biggest scam I have ever seen.  If the book says 4 hours
that's what you pay even if it really takes 2 hours.  4 hours for replacing
a CV joint seems a bit extreme.  I have yet to find a VW dealer that I
trust (or any dealer for that matter) although I had pretty good luck with
Coast VW in Toms River NJ, once upon a time. That's bit far to go for good
service though.

I have cultivated a good relationship with a local service place, after 10
years of work done by them I trust them because they are always upfront and
if they make a mistake (rarely) they admit it and bend over backwards to
correct it. The big plus is that you get to deal with the owner directly
and he always takes the time to explain things.


-- Mark

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Collien
Interactive Media Laboratory
Rochester Institute of Technology
mac9067@cs.rit.edu  -or-  mac9067@ritvax.bitnet
716.475.6625
716.475.5804 fax
From: sjohnson@frx193.intel.com (Steve Johnson - IMD ~)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '90 Vanagon Fresh-Air Intake Problem
Keywords: Dash, Vanagon
Date: 2 Jan 93 16:50:06 GMT
Organization: INTEL Corporation, Folsom, CA

Hi folks,

I have a couple of problems (well I have more than just a couple
but why drag all of them up at once ;) ).  Anyway, my fresh air 
intake on my Camper doesn't seem to know when I want the air to
be deflected from the defroster to the foot wells.  When I move
the lever to the foot well position I get air at the foot wells
and at the defrost vents.  I should be getting only air at the
foot wells, right?  Yes, I moved the defroster lever to the LEFT
so that it should be closed off?  No matter how I move the control
levers, the defroster vents always let in external air. 

So I took off the face place for the levers (had to replace the
$12.00 fan switch anyway) and they checked out okay.  Through the
open glove box, I was able to see the other end of the control
wire operating the flap for the defroster lever and it looked okay
too.  

So what I need are suggestions as to how to remedy this problem?
Ideally I want to be able to shut out all venting into the vehicle
so that when I am traveling uphill I can close them off so I don't
have to breath and smell everyone elses catalytic converter and
exhaust as I pull up the grade.  Can someone please tell me the
best way to access the fresh air system so I can correct this
problem?

Also, how do you remove the Stereo Cassette player?  Do I need
a special tool?  

Thanks for the info in advance,

Steven
From: ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Snow tires vs. All-season radials
Date: 23 Dec 92 23:23:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: polar.ILH.92Dec23152308
	<BzotBE.20w@umassd.edu>
Reply-To: ilh@lcs.mit.edu
Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems
NNTP-Posting-Host: polar.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU's message of Wed, 23 Dec 1992 00:57:12 GMT

In article <BzotBE.20w@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
   The demands of a tire for summer use are different than those
   for snow use. Just one for instance, the rubber is softer on
   most snows vs summer tires, ok...two for instances, look at
   the tread blocks on a snow vs. the tread patern on a summer
   tire. With an all season tire you get a mediocre tire for
   summer driving and a mediocre tire for winter.

   I admit, I am looking for 100% performance from my tires, maximum
   grip and traction in the summer as well as winter...you can't get
   that from an all season tire.

Sure, a good winter tire will maximize your performance in snow.  The
trouble is, in many parts of the country (ie., Boston), most of the
winter actually has clear roads.  I don't believe a winter (snow) tire
will maximize performance on clear winter roads.  I would tend to
think that an all-season tire would perform better.  Is that true?  By
choosing a winter (snow) tire, you're sacrificing performance during
most of the winter and gaining performance when it is actually snowy
and slushy.  I don't think it is as cut-and-dry as you make it sound.
It really depends on how often the roads are clear.

On clear winter roads (cold, say 15 degrees F) would an all-season
outperform a summer tire due to softer compound?

--

                                Lee Hetherington
                                ilh@lcs.mit.edu
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Oil light ON!
Date: 22 Dec 1992 14:16:28 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Diane-

I wouldn't sweat it too much.  Sometimes the combined effect of slightly low
oil level and going around the corner can swoosh all the oil in the pan to
one side, temporarily causing the pressure light to flicker.  I'd wager that
as soon as you finished going around the corner, the light went off, correct?
(Or that it would've gone off quickly if you'd kept going.)  But if the engine
wasn't really hot and everything sounds fine, I wouldn't worry too much about
it, though you might want to spend some time finding out where that oil you
lost is going (i.e. out the pushrod tube seals, out a loose nut on the oil
strainer cover, or (*urpp*) out the front engine seal.)

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dfulton@tagore.helios.nd.edu (david fulton)
Subject: Why not split the group?
Reply-To: dfulton@handel.helios.nd.edu (Dave Fulton)
Organization: Department of Aerospace & Mechanical Engineering, University of Notre Dame
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 10:30:37 GMT

	Who would it inconvenience if we split the group?  Most people
read several news groups, 1 more isn't going to hurt anyone. And if it 
helped some people by making the group easier to read, why not? Why don't we 
just split the group into air-cooled and water-cooled and see how it works.
All this discussion isn't helping anyone, I don't understand how anyone
could be violently opposed to something that seems so harmless.

						Dave Fulton


-- 
Murphy's Discovery:
        Do you know Presidents talk to the country the way men talk to
women?  They say, "Trust me, go all the way with me, and everything
will be all right."  And what happens?  Nine months later, you're in
trouble!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos
From: mike@vort.cuc.ab.ca (Mike Nemeth)
Subject: aluminum wheels more prone to inducing flats in really cold weather?
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1993 18:46:08 GMT

i have a 1980 VW diesel rabbit with aluminum wheels. last weekend
i got a flat out in hellandgone at -35C, a truly lovely experience
i'm sure we can all identify with. when i took the flat in to be
repaired, the tech said that it had been a bead leak, a rather common
phenomena with aluminum wheels in really cold weather.

not to cast aspersions on aforementioned tech, but is this really true?
would steel rims cut down on the probability of this happening again?
why aluminum in the first place? what problems do steel rims have?
should these questions be in the FAQ? is there a FAQ?

-- 
May you get everything you wish for, may you be noticed by people in
       high places, may you live in interesting times.
    Mike Nemeth       VORT Computing      Calgary, Canada
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw