HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:44:35 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, kokerj@vccsouth10.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak) writes:
>In article <1993Jan26.074048.23365@news.unomaha.edu>, mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
>(Brian Golden) writes:

>|> > because  the dealer warned him to prepare for a two days job to get that
>|> > done. Consider the $54/hr cost of labor, that's going to be a Big charge.

Step 1. Go to a decent import garage. It should be about a 3-7 hour
job. (Having done the changes on an Alltrac celica and a regular celica,
I can give you some advice, such as make sure you can break loose the
crank shaft pulley bolt. Do this first; if you can't, go to the dealer
or a garage and have them break it loose [if they'll do it])

>|> When (or if) it goes bad, replace it then.  It is a BIG chore, especially on

Absolutely NOT! This series of cars, with the 2.0 L engine, has a history
of problems with the timing belt, with an instance of one breaking at
20k. There is an idler pulley that is too small, and causes excessive
stress on the belt.

Furthermore, this engine is an INTERFERENCE engine. If it breaks, you
run the very real risk of a complete engine rebuild. (Hint, this is
a very time intensive task, and at $54/hour, plus many parts, will cost
much more than a timing belt replacement.)

>|> the 100k mark.  Mostly the belt fails because of the rubber decaying, not

Not true for this car. (BTW, many belts fail far before the 100k mark.
I have personal experience with failures at 78k, 86k, and 90k (separate
cars, not all mine:)

>Is this engine freewheeling? I assume that is a 16v and probably not, especiall
>since it is made in Japan. You can let it go, but if the engine doesn't

Correction. Most Japanese engines are free-wheeling, it is the American
ones that are mostly interference engines. All Toyota engines built
after something like 1986 are free-wheeling, as are the 1.8L Mitsu engines.
The 2.0L happens to not be.

>at least one of the times. The job shouldn't cost more than $250 on any car. Th
>belt itself only *costs* ~$10. You'll probably be charged $30 by the mechanic.

Um, on my car, the job is listed as a 7+ hour job, at $65/hour. The
dealer quoted me $750 to change it. On a regular celica, it is about
a $350 job. The belts cost around $30.

Ron
From: kokerj@rs6116.ecs.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Date: 26 Jan 93 21:20:19 GMT
Reply-To: kokerj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.

In article <30173@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense) writes:
|> In rec.autos.tech, kokerj@vccsouth10.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak) writes:
|> >In article <1993Jan26.074048.23365@news.unomaha.edu>, mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
|> >(Brian Golden) writes:
|> 
|> Step 1. Go to a decent import garage. It should be about a 3-7 hour
|> job. (Having done the changes on an Alltrac celica and a regular celica,
|> I can give you some advice, such as make sure you can break loose the
|> crank shaft pulley bolt. Do this first; if you can't, go to the dealer
|> or a garage and have them break it loose [if they'll do it])
|> 

|> >Is this engine freewheeling? I assume that is a 16v and probably not, especiall
|> >since it is made in Japan. You can let it go, but if the engine doesn't
|> 
|> Correction. Most Japanese engines are free-wheeling, it is the American
|> ones that are mostly interference engines. All Toyota engines built
|> after something like 1986 are free-wheeling, as are the 1.8L Mitsu engines.
|> The 2.0L happens to not be.

I am not a Japanese or American car driver...I'm sure that you know better. 
Aren't all Honda engines of the interference type.
|> >at least one of the times. The job shouldn't cost more than $250 on any car. Th
|> >belt itself only *costs* ~$10. You'll probably be charged $30 by the mechanic.
|> 
|> Um, on my car, the job is listed as a 7+ hour job, at $65/hour. The
|> dealer quoted me $750 to change it. On a regular celica, it is about
|> a $350 job. The belts cost around $30.

IMO, if you pay $65/hr labor on any Japanese car, you're crazy. In addition,
stay away from mechanics that charge by the listed time. Most mechanics
can do many jobs in half of the listed time. I think these prices you
quote are simply a testament to the (IMO) poor layout of the Japanese 
engine compartments.
|> Ron
--Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jim-ra@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jim Stevenson's reader)
Subject: Where's PCV valve on 88 5.0L Mustang?
Keywords: PCV Mustang
Organization: NASA Ames Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:23:44 GMT

Does anyone know where's the PCV valve on a 1988 5.0L 8 cylinder Mustang
located?

Thanks in advance.
From: kinter@phakt.usc.edu (Ryan Kinter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Cutlass Problems
Date: 22 Jan 1993 00:13:59 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: phakt.usc.edu
Keywords: surging, need help

	I'm hoping that someone can help me with my problem.  I have
an '82 Cutlass with 125M(13M since rebuild) with a 3.8l V6.  Under
heavy loads it surges.  I first noticed it when the car was loaded down 
for a long trip.  It would get to around 65 and then start surging.  A
temporary solution was letting off the gas and then slowly squeezing it
back.  This seemed to work but we still had to limit out speeds to 60.
On the return trip when the car was lighter, the problem wasn't quite as
bad.  After the trip I didn't notice any problems until I drove to school 
from Minnesota.  It ran okay for awhile(surging only under hard acceleration).
It managed to grunt over the Rockies(in first or second) without much surging.
It ran acceptably(albeit weakly) until we reached California.  It could barely 
make it over the first range of mountains.  It had no power and any attempt 
at acceleration led to surging(even stalling once or twice).  Since I've 
been in L.A., it has surged more often.  If I accelerate too quickly up a 
highway ramp or long hill, it surges.  On a trip to Joshua Tree, it had 
subtle(as opposed to the abrupt ones earlier)surges on the interstate.

Some info:
3.8L V6, 3-speed auto, 2.56(or some other low number)rear differential, 
carburated(Rochester Dualjet 210), computer controlled

The air filter is  clean, new crankcase breather filter, pulls 15+ psi
vaccuum at idle, fuel pump puts out 4 psi(is this ok or too low?), rebuilt
the carb just prior to the trip to CA.

Anybody have any ideas about this one?  I was thinking it could be the 
oxygen or barometric pressure sensor.  I have DIACOM but am still looking 
for a laptop to connect it to.  That information should be available soon
if it will help anybody.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan
From: rhorwell@atc.boeing.com (Roland Faragher-Horwell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cost of rebuilding AT on
Date: 20 Jan 93 21:26:01 GMT
Reply-To: rhorwell@atc.boeing.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Northwest Citroen Owners Club


  
>Sounds cheap to me....most newer American cars have trannys costing a
>$1000 to rebuild. Just be glad it wasn't a Porsch or Peugot...then it
						      ^^^^^^
>would have been $2000-$2500...
>                                                        Don
>
 
Which model PeugEot are you referring to?   I have never seen one run more 
than $700-$1000 (prices varying via gouging by the mechanic) for a tranny overhaul
(when they need one - which is rare!).

Roland
From: billf@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Bill Faus)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:49:08 GMT
Subject: Re: 1984 Ford Bronco II (advice sought)..
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I have an '87 ranger with the 2.9 fuel injected motor and
an '84 with the 2.8 'basterdized' electro-mechanical carburetor.

The electro-mechanical carb with air injection was a
cheap fix to meet pollution requirements of the day.
The older Europeans get much more power out of the
2.8 with a 38/38 Weber.

Take your time and wait for a 2.9L Ford to show up.  The
Rangers and Bronco II's are decent 'lightweight' 4x4's if
taken care of.  

Oil burning and leakage around valve covers and the rear
main seal are a problem with the 2.8.  If this motor has
99K and isn't burning oil I'll eat my keyboard.

-bill
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 22:58:04 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.190845.7198@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:
>
>In article <1993Jan25.121339.15258@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> dwsmall@miavx1.acs.mu
>ohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small) writes:
>>
>>Someone asked about a TH700 a while back and no one else offerd anything
>>yet so if you're reading... The TH700 is basically an electronically
>>controled version of the TH250 but for front wheel drive vehicles.
>>
>
>Gee. you sound so convincing I'm almost afraid to say this: When did the
>Corvette become a front wheel drive vehicle?
>
>Answers??????
      O.K. guys, before you get too carried away is there a TH700 or
    are we talking about a 700R4 ( as in Corvettes ) ?>-- 
>Orlin.2@osu.edu
From: erik@peewee.nwc.navy.mil (Erik van Bronkhorst       Code 3814                               Phone 939-1421)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: auto trans questions
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:22:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NAVAIRWARCENWPNDIV, China Lake

What's the difference between th350, th400, and powerglide?
Which is strongest, specifically, for racing?  Why bother making
any others (than the strongest)?  What about the new 4 speeds
and ones with OD with clutch lockups?  Are these reliable enough
for 400-600 ft lbs under race conditions?  Not necessarily drag 
race, but still abusive circle track conditions.

Thanks

-- 
Erik van Bronkhorst KC6UUT DoD#4342585443 AMA#[classified]
"Truth is false and logic lost, now the fourth dimension is crossed..."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dilmore@eastrg2.cray.com (Robert James Dilmore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec???
Date: 27 Jan 93 13:13:56 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.

In article <1993Jan27.004810.2476@spdcc.com>, jin@spdcc.com (Jerry Natowitz) writes:
|> One month ago, falling for the ad campaigns (and Castrol's good ratings
|> in Consumer Reports), I bought 5 quarts and an oil filter and changed
|> my oil to Syntec.  As an aside, which may be relevent, the oil filter
|> had a bad gasket and leaked about a quart before I got another.
|> 
|> Now, barely 5 weeks later, the oil is filthy black.  I usually never see
|> the oil so dark, I change it when it is dark brown, about 2, 1500 mile
|> months.
   When I started using Syntec, it did turn brown faster than my usual oil
which is Castrol (dinosuar). After about about 1500 miles it stabilized at
dark walnut. The Passat had 20K miles on it. When I changed it 4000 miles
after putting it in I noticed a 1/4 inch of sludge on the bottom of my oil
drain pan. I myself am in a qaundry, as you are. So I tried it again, the 
oil is now staying cleaner at 1500 miles (chestnut colored). If when I drain
the oil at the same mileage and there is no sludge I will continue using it.
If there is the same amount of sludge, You'all,Castrol,VW,the world will know
about it.
|> 
|> I have three theories:
|> 
|> 1) The bad oil filter allowed enough air to mix with the oil to degrade it.

Not likely

|> 
|> 2) Syntec is so good it is disolving 8 years / 125K miles of Camry sludge
|>    that has been accumulating in my engine.

Could be, I hope that case is true. If it is not I wonder why it has been on the
European market soo long. I figure if anyplace has a large percentage of overworked
16 valve 4 bangers it must be there.

|> 
|> 3) Syntec is expensive crap.

  Syntec is expensive, but not more than Mobil 1... crap, we'll see. So far the
only benifit that I see is my engine feels warmed up faster. This is probably
due to the 5w figure.

|> 
|> Anyone care to comment?

 NAAHHH :0)

|> -- 
|>      Jerry Natowitz
|>      Guest user on:
|> ARPA jin@ursa-major.spdcc.com
|> UUCP {ima,harvard,rayssd,linus,m2c}!spdcc!jin
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: auto trans questions
Date: 22 Jan 93 20:41:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <C183D1.HK5@avalon.nwc.navy.mil> erik@peewee.nwc.navy.mil (Erik van Bronkhorst       Code 3814                               Phone 939-1421) writes:
>What's the difference between th350, th400, and powerglide?
>Which is strongest, specifically, for racing?  Why bother making
>any others (than the strongest)?  What about the new 4 speeds
>and ones with OD with clutch lockups?  Are these reliable enough
>for 400-600 ft lbs under race conditions?  Not necessarily drag 
>race, but still abusive circle track conditions.
>
I'll only comment on the TH700, GM's mid-sized 4 speed.  Early ones
were weak.  Later ones are stronger.  Strong enough to be put behind 
EFI 350s in the 'vette and camaro.  There is a guy in Van Nuyes, CA
that makes strong! TH700s.  He has a 71 Monte Carlo with 396 thats a
street car, and can lift the front tires in the 1-2 shift.  He has
recently put together a 455 442 that will do the same thing.  Oddly
enough, he has made a late 302 mustage w/N20, a GM TH700, and a
GearCharger EOD.  

TCI sells strong TH700s for ~$1000 OTC.  
-- 
	 Frank Evan Perdicaro 				Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (JTD is lost)
Subject: Re: brakes
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 23:24:53 GMT

Before you go resurfacing your rotor again.  Grab the old torque
wrench.  Yup!  This went around the MR2 list awhile back.  Improper
torquing of the rims (especailly if they are aluminum) can misshape a
brake rotor.  I had both my front rotors wobbling.  I checked the
torque spec, pulled the fronts, and retorqued (in steps of 20, ie
20ft/lbs in a star patter, 40, 60, and settled on 76 (I think) and all
was nice for the left side.  The right was indeed warped.  Many
garages use air wrenches and blast the rims on bolt at a time.  This
can warp the wheel and not allow true tightening, thus warping a
rotor.

	Jonathan

jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu
93 Civic Si! Wow, I'm broke now.
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ca swap meet!
Date: 26 Jan 93 17:24:08 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.

In article <51330059@hpscit.sc.hp.com> chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles) writes:
>
>
>	Just a reminder about the upcoming swap meet in Turlock, Ca.
>This is the first one of the year and is sure to be a big one. For
>those outside Ca, Turlock is located in the central valley. Just
>north of Modesto or South Of Stockton.
>
>	Chris Wiles
>
>	P.s. Its held at the fair grounds.
>


I'll be there - at the end of row D ? (by the bathrooms) my husband has gone
there for years - watch out for the fog and dress warm in the morning

BTW its Sat & Sun   January  30  &  31 - Saturday's the best day to go

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Olds 455 swapping and stuff
Keywords: Oldsmobile, 455, engine swaps
Date: 22 Jan 93 21:27:09 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <gzk3nzf@rpi.edu> stiegg@aix.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler) writes:
>
>
>I'm looking for swap info on Olds 455 blocks.  Basically I'm wondering if the
>block is physically similar to Pontiac and Buick 455 blocks...ie to the
>engine mounts line up and are the width/head clearances similar?
>
I have heard, and am fairly certain that the big block has the same
width at motor mount, same length, and nearly the same height as the 
Rocket 350.  The intake manifold is wider -- thats the easiset way to
tell them a glance.  

Be sure you have a good radiator, and just drop that big block in.  

-- 
	 Frank Evan Perdicaro 				Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 19:28:01 EST

In article <1993Jan22.170947.21129@colorado.edu> bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman) writes:
[previous stuff about AIR pump removal deleted]
>
>       The only reason not to remove it is that it  ay be illegal in
>    your area, After all it is just an air pump pushing air into your
>    exhaust manifolds. If you only take the belt off exhaust can flow
>    back into the pump andbuild up carbon deposits. Then when you want
>    to reconnect it for an emmissions test it will not turn. 

     Sorry, almost _ALL_ AIR systems have a built in check-valve, the
main purpose of which is to prevent damage to the pump and components
in the case of a backfire.   If I disconnect it, I remove the outlet
hose and give a liberal squirt of oil into it, then spin it.   AIR
pumps do like to sieze if they are disconnected and left....
                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  

From: hovnania@iftccu.ca.boeing.com (Paul Hovnanian)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 17:07:41 GMT
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane Group
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

>> 	A friend hof mine has a Plymouth RS/Turbo (The same type of car as  
>> Eagle Talon Tsi and Mitsbishi Eclipse). He drove the car so hard that it  
>[stuff deleted]
>
>When (or if) it goes bad, replace it then.  It is a BIG chore, especially on
>front (or all)  wheel drive cars like this.  Most belts will live WELL beyond
>the 100k mark.  Mostly the belt fails because of the rubber decaying, not
>because of excessive miles.  If he is really worried about becoming stranded
>some day, then have him change it.  Otherwise, keep your money.

To replace or not to replace depends on one important thing! What will
happen when the belt breaks. Some engines suffer no damage, and just coast
to a stop. With others, there is no clearance between the valves and the pistons
when the belt breaks and this will result in MAJOR engine damage. I'm not
sure about the Eclipse engine. You probably should check this with a
dis-interested mechanic ( not one who is trying to sell you a belt job) and
who knows your car well.




       	       _  !	    !       /   /     /
	     /   /    / /   /      /   /     /
    	     ___/      __  /      /   /     /
  	   /   	    /     /      /   /     /
  	  / 	   /     /      /   /     /
 	__/ 	 __/   __/    ____,'   ______/		
				
		Paul Hovnanian
		==============
		hovnania@atc.boeing.com

		[Standard disclaimers apply]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Subject: Re: My Excel Squeals
Organization: Bellcore
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 01:59:46 GMT

mclk@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Richard Pace) says:
 >
>I have a 1989 Hyundai Excel (standard 4 speed) that squeals loudly when I 
>start it in the cold and also as I accelerate at low speeds.  I brought
>it into the shop and they replaced a serpentine belt.  It didn't seem to 
>help since it still squeals.  Any suggestions? 
>
>Ric Pace
>mclk@troi.cc.rochester.edu

What!   So you've got the same problem.   Please read my article about
screeching mazda 323.

So, it's not a serpentine belt.  By the way, it looks like the squealing
does not happen all the time since you took away from the shop without
noticing the squealing.   My mazda does that too.    I cannot bring it
to  a service shop since I am sure that they will change something without
really fixing the problem.   So I am still waiting until the problem
gets a lot worse.  However, it does not seem to get worse since it started
two years ago.   But very annoying.

	Hugh
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (JTD is lost)
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 19:35:31 GMT


On the Eagle/Plymouth/Mitsus mentioned orignally, I don't see there
being a serious difference in labor becuase of the number of wheels
driven.  I've changed the belt in an MR2, 2 Rabbits, and a 72 Datsun
510 (well, that one had a chain).  The belt doesn't have anything to
do with transmissions.  Maybe on the Celica Alltrac there's stuff
nestled around the belt making it harder (seems reasonable, esp the
way Toyota packs its engine compartments).  I don't think the 4wd (or
AWD, whatever is PC these days) should change the timing belt
placement.  Perhpas b/c of the turbo engine available on the 4wd
models its harder? 
	Jonathan

jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu
93 Civic Si! Wow, I'm broke now!
From: jfarmer@cs.utk.edu (JOHN FARMER)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Radial tires on old car
Date: 24 Jan 1993 22:27:50 -0500
Organization: CS Department, University of Tennessee, Knoxville
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: duncan.cs.utk.edu
Summary: Manual says no radials


A quick question that has prob. been asked at least 1^2**6 times before...

One of the cars in my driveway is a '71 Plymouth Valiant "Scamp" (Had since
new 136k miles...).  The owners manual says that unless the car came orginally
with radial tires, one or more suspension pieces need to be changed.  Parts
places don't have any idea about this (neither do most tire places in town...)
and of course, the dealer don't keep parts/info for such an "old piece of junk"
("Why don't you _trade_ it in on a new xyxy??")

Seeing how it is increasingly hard to find decent bias-belted tires at a
fair price, and moviated by the fact that I can count the threads in the
belts on the front tires,  I'm going to buy tires *real soon*.

Does anybody anything about what the owners manual was talking about?  Should
I just go ahead and get the radials and hope for the best?  Should Harold kiss
Sheila?  (Sorry, cross-linked wrong newsgroup...)

Email or post, and thanks to you all.

John T.

-- 
John T. Farmer, Jr.					jfarmer@cs.utk.edu
Full-time Daddy, Part-time Grad Student,
Full-time wage slave, Wood butcher when I can.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech