HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bob@halfdome.sf.ca.us (bob pasker)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Usenet reference in Climbing Magazine...
Date: 29 Sep 92 20:20:38 PDT
Distribution: na
Organization: Disorganized Organization

In article <1992Sep30.001418.1526@pony.Ingres.COM>, jrb@Ingres.COM (John Black) writes:
> Did everyone notice the following in an article about the Joshua Tree 
> earthquake in this month's issue of Climbing:
> 
>     Contrary to an early and persistant rumor, fed by a prank on a computer
>     network, that Headstone Rock had fallen down, so far local climbers and
>     rangers have found no rockfall or alterations.
> 
> I knew the Roofman would make it into the mags one day...
> 
> And congrats to Allen Sanderson for the "Whipper of the Month"!  Usually Mort's
> the only netter who gets his name in lights... :-)

about three years ago, someone on rec.motorcycles posted about a new 
BMW motorcycle called the "R1".  it was a joke and it got picked up 
by some of the magazines' "rumours" columns.  then, about a year ago,
word started coming out of germany about a bike that resembles the 
"R1" in functionality, but has a different name.  the bike debuts next
spring.  its life imitating art. 

of course, i would be very careful that headstone rock does not come
a tumblin' down, fulfilling roofman's prophesy.

-- 
-- bob pasker
-- bob@halfdome.sf.ca.us 
--
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: ilana@kiowa.scd.ucar.edu (Ilana Stern)
Subject: Rossiter's rating of Osiris?
Organization: NCAR/UCAR
Distribution: co
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 15:35:40 GMT

I'd appreciate if someone who has Rossiter's new Lumpy Ridge guide
would email me his rating of Osiris (on the Book).  Hint:  I disagree
rather strenuously with Kimball's rating this route 5.7.  (Harlin's
book appears to have just copied Kimball's rating, or vice versa.)

I'm also curious about the rating of George's Tree, which is next to
Osiris (I agree with Kimball's rating here (5.9))
-- 
/\                
  \_][ <--NCAR Ilana Stern dod#009 r.b. cliff swallow ilana@ncar.ucar.edu    
      \______________________________________________________________________
From: bhilden@bigriver.Eng.Sun.COM (Bruce Hildenbrand)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: how to string chocks with spectra/plastic tubing?
Date: 1 Oct 1992 20:12:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bigriver-248

In article <1992Sep30.163237.20274@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com> susswein@anrchy.cxo.dec.com (Steve Susswein) writes:
>
>I decided that it's finally time to restring my old stoppers, and
>decided to use spectra cord instead of perlon.  Since the spectra is
>only 5.5 mm in diameter (vs. 8mm for the perlon) I got some plastic
>tubing to ensure a tight fit.  The problem is that the fit is *too*
>tight, and after trying different things for a couple of hours last
>night I still can't get the spectra and plastic tube to fit through the
>holes in the stopper.
>
>Has anyone who's succeeded in doing this send me some instructions?

Try using heat shrink tubing, you can use as many thicknesses as you
need to get a good fit.  Yes, yes, be careful when heating it.

Bruce
From: rob@cygnus.com (Rob Savoye)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Climbing around D.C.
Date: 5 Oct 92 19:09:27 GMT
Organization: Cygnus Support -- +1 415 322 3811
In-reply-to: levyj@milton.u.washington.edu's message of Mon, 5 Oct 1992 12:06:33 GMT


   ..., Annapolis Rocks (in VA), Crescent Rocks (near Manassas), and other

  Unless it's been moved, Annapolis Rocks was in MD, a few miles up
the AT from I-70.

	- rob -
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: pearson@cs.cornell.edu (David S. Pearson)
Subject: New Mexico climbing info wanted
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 22:13:54 GMT

I'm going to be in New Mexico, in and around Santa Fe, for about a week.

Does anyone out there have any favorite climbing spots in that area?
Or classic routes?

Thanks!
David Pearson
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: paulf@ldgo.columbia.edu (paul friberg)
Subject: Kaymoor @ The New; Route ???s
Organization: Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 19:12:50 GMT

On a recent trip to New River Gorge, my brother and I visited
Kaymoor for the first time. What a blast to try some sport 
routes for a change of pace. The reason I'm writing is to
find out some route info. and if anyone on the net is aware
of current developments at Kaymoor. We did a climb called
Rico Suave (5.10a) and another unknown unlisted route (in
the current xerox guide anyway) to the left of it. Does
anyone know what this route is rated or called? The 
route is relatively new (little chalk) with 4 new bolts to
closed cold shut anchors. My guess was that it's somewhere 
around 5.10d/5.11a, but I have a hard time judging ratings.
It's really a nice route with a sustained start (stick clip
the first bolt if you do the direct route).

On another note, the route known as "Low Voltage" (put up
by another Netter whose name escapes me at the moment) is
missing the second bolt. I don't have any details on where 
it went, but thought I'd let others know.

Cheers,

Paul Friberg
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
        xXXXXX
       / XXXXX   MUST CLIMB!
     O   xXXXX
    [-]_/ XXXX
     \    XXXX
      o--oXXXX
       \  XXXX
        oxXXXX
           XXX
            XX
             X

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: jahn@guinness.Idbsu.EDU (Greg Jahn)
Subject: Re: water-heat-light and ropes - ??
Reply-To: jahn@guinness.idbsu.edu
Organization: BSU - Data Center
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:05:48 GMT

In article <30364@sophia.inria.fr>, mangin@debussy.inria.fr
 (Frank Mangin) writes:
|>  Don't be to confident, I had a rope burnt by a beginner who waited
|>30 seconds
|>before removing his eight from the rope after a long rapelling. Only
|>the sheath
|>was damaged, but the inner was visible and I had to retire the
|>rope...
|>

Just a thought/wonder, but, how 'bout rappelling wherein the rope is
laying, with body weight, over edges of dark rock on a very hot
day with direct sunlight?????  Couldn't the conditions exist that
would melt the rope?????

What brings this question to mind is what 'happened' to me a while
back, when I used a retired rope to put siding on the upper part of
my house (artificial jumarring wall?).  The rope was hanging over the
shingled rooftop on a hot day, and it wasn't until I was hanging
about 15 feet up that the rope began to stretch, dropping me about
6 inches a couple times in about a minute.  I was trying to figure
out why when it suddenly occured to me that the shingles on the roof
were probably too hot to touch, and I figured that my rope might be
melting.  OF course, I got down immediately, and checked the rope.
I couldn't see any visible damage, but it made me wonder if the
temperatures were high enough to melt the rope ... the rope was
definitely stretching, and I figured that given enough time it
may be possible to melt the rope.  ANy scientists out there with
equations that want to take a guess at the possibility??????
 
--
Greg Jahn Boise State Univ.|'I decided to just lie low and let events
/ jahn@guinness.idbsu.edu /|take their course. Maybe that's the way
/ dosjahn@idbsu.bitnet    /|the sheep think as they are led off to the
/ (208)385-3891.thephone  /|the slaughterhouse.' On marriage, Camilo Cela

From: rog@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Roger Haaheim)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1992 13:41:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: climbing helmets II
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.climbing

Wearing a helmet is common sense;  not wearing one isn't.
Don't need a rule for that.
From: Sung.Kim@f851.n102.z1.fidonet.org (Sung Kim)
Sender: NewsMeisterII@mcws.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Denali
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 23:27:00 -0800

I was wondering, has the climb on Denali been affected by the volcanoe
eruption near by at all.
I am thinking about going there next May.

Thanks in advance.
___
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 * Origin: Central Computer Banks - mcws.fidonet.org (1:102/851)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: East Side Sierra
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Distribution: ca
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:51:26 GMT

  Hey fellow Californians! I'm a goin East Side Sierra later this
week, and was wondering if anyone had any good ideas for places
to climb at there. I'll be staying in Bishop and so would like to
know of possibilities around there. What I was wondering was if 
there is any climbing there except for Owens Gorge and Buttermilks.
Not that that's not enough, but I was just curious!

************************************************************************
"Would you believe it if you     |             MY KARMA
saw it with your own eyes?"      |           JUST RAN OVER
   Asked the woman               |            YOUR DOGMA
"That depends"                   |               -Dolly Llama-
    Replied I                    |	
***********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: hunter@chaos.aqeng.cdc.com (Jim Hunter)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Info / Partner needed in Bay area this weekend.
Date: 6 Oct 92 18:54:06 GMT
Organization: Control Data Systems Inc.
Originator: hunter@chaos.aqeng.cdc.com

I will be in San Francisco this weekend on Sunday (10/10) and
Monday (10/11), with climbing shoes and time to kill. I would
like to do some climbing on those days if possible. I already
know about Yosemite and Mickey's beach; what other areas are
close to the Bay area? Where are the "California Needles" and
"Pinnacles"?

If you are interested in climbing with me on either Sunday or
Monday, I lead 5.10 and follow 5.11. I will have a car, and
can bring rope and gear if necessary.


Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: launce@apollo.med.utah.edu (Tri-Ungulate)
Subject: Re: East Side Sierra
Organization: Trifurcate-Hooved Ruminant Surveyors, Inc.
Distribution: ca
Date: 6 Oct 92 14:36:22

   Bruce Gustifson (bruceg@Cadence.COM) wrote:
   :   Hey fellow Californians! I'm a goin East Side Sierra later this
   : week, and was wondering if anyone had any good ideas for places
   : to climb at there. I'll be staying in Bishop and so would like to
   : know of possibilities around there. What I was wondering was if 
   : there is any climbing there except for Owens Gorge and Buttermilks.
   : Not that that's not enough, but I was just curious!

We went to Yosemite this summer.  Some places we hit on the eastside of
Tioga when it was too rainy in Tuolomne:

- Bachar Boulders: fun place, lots of interesting problems on
volcanic-type rock (sorry, I'm no geologist) Tape up, 'cause the rock,
while pockety, is pretty sharp.

- Deadman Summit Boulders: we tried to find this place but had the
wrong beta.  Sounded good, though.

- Clark's Canyon: new area recently developed in last year or two, by
the looks of the shiny new bolts. 50+ sport routes on more
igneous-type rock, some of which are classic.  Lots of Huecos.  Check
out Jihad (11d, though I think a key hold on the crux broke, thereby
making it perhaps 12a or so). Joe Bob gives it ***.  For beta, we got
a photocopied guide at a biking/climbing store in Mammoth Lakes.  It
was outrageously overpriced at $3 for 5 scribbled photocopied pages,
but pretty necessary, I suppose.

Have fun.

| _, launce gouw * internet: launce@apollo.med.utah.edu * ooniversity of ootah 
|(_) medical center * department of human genetics *   palace of the brine
___) we apologise for the previous opinions. those responsible have been sacked























From: Sung.Kim@f851.n102.z1.fidonet.org (Sung Kim)
Sender: NewsMeisterII@mcws.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Denali
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 23:27:00 -0800

I was wondering, has the climb on Denali been affected by the volcanoe
eruption near by at all.
I am thinking about going there next May.

Thanks in advance.
___
 X OLX 2.2 X Press "+" to see another tagline.

 * Origin: Central Computer Banks - mcws.fidonet.org (1:102/851)
Xref: sparky rec.climbing:3677 rec.backcountry:7861
From: dunlap@bigboote.csd.sgi.com (D. Christopher Dunlap)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing,rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: United Way and SAR
Date: 30 Sep 92 03:46:35 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA

In <1992Sep27.120501.563@halfdome.sf.ca.us> bob@halfdome.sf.ca.us (bob pasker) writes:
>
>because many corporations' executives have made a "commitment" to united way to
>raise a certain amount of funds.  they pressure their management who in turn
>pressure the workers to contribute.  in no uncertain terms, managers are
>measured by the % of their workers who make contributions and as such managers
>look favorably on employees who agree to do so.  they don't want lump sums,
>either: they encourage people to make a per-paycheck automatic deduction so
>
> ...Lots of stuff deleted...
>
>contribution of some sort.  needless to say, i lasted a whole 6 weeks with this
>organziation.  my only retribution is that two years later they were bought out
>in a hostile take over:-) 

I feel sorry for whoever works for THAT organization. I they can be
that misguided about philanthropy, who knows WHAT they'll come up
with!


I give to the United Way for these reasons:


It's easy - comes out of each paycheck.

My company matches funds. 

The overhead of UW is very low. (check your local org., they have stats)

The money goes to a good range of services.

I can specify "pet" charities to receive all or part of my
contribution.




I have also considered dropping several times, largely due to problems
which turned out to be centered in the National Organization, not the
local one. 


>so, to make a short story long, if you're in one of these organizations and 
>you are compelled to make a contribution, you can use the oppty to give to
>SARs instead of missionary organziations.


I would say that if that's the way your company operates, find
a new one! 



Whatever you do, GIVE!



chris




--
D. Christopher Dunlap  		Customer Services Engineering
				Customer Support Division
email: dunlap@sgi.com		Silicon Graphics Computer Systems
From: brodesky@td2cad.intel.com (Michael Brodesky)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Food to take on climbs/ Job opening
Date: 1 Oct 92 20:56:42 GMT
Organization: intel corporation



	I was wondering what people take on climbs to eat. I have been
taking fruit snacks, powerbars, granola type bars, fruit, and pop tarts.



	On another note, the group I work in in Ca, has three openings
  for technical people with out degrees. THE
position is a 12 hour work day for 3/4 days a week. This would be great
for getting out to climb. Since you work Sunday to tuesday one week and
Sunday to wednesday the next. The position is for a help desk. Have
a clue with unix or Vms, or just have a clue. Send me a resume. 

MichaeL

--
Michael Brodesky Internet Mbrodesky@sc9.Intel.com
UUCP : {pur-ee,qanad,oliveb,decwrl,hplabs}!intelca!mipos3!td2cad!brodesky
During the week I climb left to right. On weekends I climb up and down.
Rootbeer^2 = Beer ? 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: davin@hardy.u.washington.edu (David Veale)
Subject: Alpine Touring skis for sale
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 15:11:10 GMT


Alpine Touring /Randonee Ski Gear for Sale:
-Hagan Alpina skis, 180 cm, in good condition
-Silvretta bindings
-Dynafit Tourlite boots,  extremely light  (size 11-11.5)
-Coll-Tex mohair skins, the best
	Cost $700 new (on sale & with package prices)  asking $425
	If interested,  reply via e-mail or call Dave @ 206-528-5765 (Seattle)
From: mntneer@ccvax.ucd.ie
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Longs peak,CO ?
Date: 6 Oct 92 18:13:21 GMT
Organization: University College Dublin


Has anybody been up Longs peak in Colorado lately? I attempted an expedition on 
September 23rd but on arriving at the keyhole was left with no alternative 

but to give up my attempt due to things such as lack of time, uncomfortable
feelings about the route and so on. I never found out if the route was
technical or not or if there was a simpler route to the peak. Back home now I
itch for information on the mountain and would welcome any news.

Alan O'Brien.

University College Dublin Mountaineering Club.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: intgrec@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (CHRIS GREB)
Subject: THANKS!!! (Was: Climbing n Cleveland?)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date:  6 Oct 1992 08:17 EST  

This is for everyone who mailed me information about places to climb near 
Cleveland...

THANKS!!!!!

Now if I only had a partner...


	-Chris

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: billw@ace.mentorg.com (Bill Wright)
Subject: Looking for Boulder climbing partner
Originator: billw@ace
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1992 22:09:42 GMT
Reply-To: bill_wright@mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics 
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 


I am going to be in Boulder this coming weekend and am
looking for a climbing partner for Sunday.  I am interested
in classic routes near Boulder.  I am flexible as to the specific
route.  I lead around 5.10a (+ or -) but would be willing to try and
follow things up to 11a.  I prefer multi-pitch routes.  One route
I always wanted to do was the West Butt of the Bastille.  Of course,
I really want to be guided up the Naked Edge...(I'll bring my jumars :-))

Anyone interested?  Send Email to bill_wright@mentorg.com

-- 
             Bill Wright / bill_wright@mentorg.com

                  "When in doubt, run it out!"
From: nancy@wilbur.coyote.trw.com (Nancy Jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: plastic doubles
Date: 2 Oct 92 03:58:12 GMT
Organization: TRW Inc., Redondo Beach, CA

gustave@curtiss.seas.ucla.edu (Gustave R. Stroes) writes:

>Can anybody give me some advice on custom fitting plastic
>doubles?  Can ski shops do this?  I have a pair of Scarpa
>Invernos.  Pefect fit length wise but too wide around
>the ankles.  Any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks...

>Gustave 

A few years back an apline ski shop was a big help to me in fitting
my AFS101s.  Your fit problem sounds different than mine, but it
can't hurt to try.

-Nancy
From: jde@eng.cam.ac.uk (J.D. Edwards)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Seeking info on Grivel 2F Crampons
Date: 30 Sep 92 12:01:44 GMT
Organization: cam.eng

rogers@teal.csn.org (Roger Spaulding) writes:





>	Does anyone have any experience with or comments on
>	Grivel 2F cramps?


>	Roger Spaulding
>	Ramtron International Corp.
>	Colorado Springs, CO
>	rogers@ramtron.com
>	(719) 481-7049

I have owned a pair of Grivel 2F crampons for a couple of years and have 
mainly used them in the French Alps.

Their advantages are that they are easy to adjust, are easy to put on and are
light.

Disadvantages: they ball up really badly, in fact they were positively 
dangerous. Therefore buy an anti-balling plate. (I think they are available)
Also be careful when strapping them on your rucksack since due to their 
modular constuction it is possible for the pieces to separate and disappear 
down the mountain.

Regards performance I have  not used them on anything really difficult but
I have no complaints so far. 

Unless you are climbing above Scottish grade 4 then they should be left 
in the flexible mode since they are more prone to failure when made rigid
due to some boots not being entirely flat.

Also be sure to buy the mark II version with the front stiffener in place
and the front bale attachments bent to prevent it from falling off!!

Hope this helps.

Jon Edwards
University Of Cambridge.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: weydanz@fraser.sfu.ca (Wolfgang Joachim Weydanz)
Subject: Re: Wolfgang Gullich Dead: thats a joke, right?
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 00:38:59 GMT

Unfortunately it is true. I do not know too much. Wolfghang Guellich died
about four weeks ago on a Sunday night on the German Autobahn near
Ingolstadt (north of munich) the News came as ashock for me as well.

I don't know about the circumstances, but it is certainly true to say, that
cars are more dangerous than climbing.

Yes, it is a shame and the climbing scene certainly lost one of the best
climbers worldwide.

Besides, we lost a great character as well.

Wolfgang
From: sinclair@cc.usu.edu (Bob Sinclair)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: <None>
Date: 28 Sep 92 07:18:13 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

I mailed a couple of folks who were having problems with the incredible
non-setting industrial adhesive, but didn't have the full details available.

The one we have been using is called PL Premium Construction Adhesive
Manufactured by ChemRex Inc, Contech Brands (I think, the tube is scuffed)
Minneapolis, MN. We paid $4.99 for a 29 fl oz tube (big tube, reduced from
$6.50 - they also had a smaller one).

The adhesive is a golden-brown color when wet or dry. It keeps well with just
a nail shoved into the nozzle.

We clean the rocks and the wall (on the cement that involves scratching off
the varnish left from the casting boards). Blow clean but do not wirebrush
as that causes lost more dust. Lots of adhesive. Hold in place with duct tape
(and a prop if the hold is heavy) for 2 days.

When you push the hold onto the wall, wobble it around a little so the 
glue gets into all the little nooks and crannies. You can either smear the 
stuff that squishes out to form a bead while wet, or can trim with a chisel
after it has set.

Obviously, a large, flat back to the hold is best, but we have managed to
get quite good edges with a relatively small contact area - maybe 2"x1" of
contact with a 2"x3/4" flat hold. The adhesive sets slightly flexible, but
that seems fine as we have given many of our holds lots of abuse with few (no?)
failures. Last night, just for fun, we pulled one off with a prybar. It came
loose very easily (with a 4' prybar what do you expect) and the failure was
in the concrete - ie the hold had the adhesive attached, and the adhesive 
ripped off a thin layer of concrete.

We are currently trying some much bigger holds - about a foot by 8 inches with
maybe a 2" wide top. They seem to be taking. We're also trying on overhaning
plywood - mail me in a week or so if you're interested in the results.

Finally, I bouldered on a bridge in Palo Alto where thay had used similar 
looking stuff. There was also some that had a very similar texture but was 
a silver/grey color - so there are other brands that work - PL Regular maybe.

Hope this is useful,
Bob

bobs@biocat.ncdmf.usu.edu                           bob the alien.

Newsgroups: rec.climbing