HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: staceyc@sco.COM (Stacey Campbell)
Subject: Re: Black and White Photography - Can I do it?
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 19:10:24 GMT


In article <1993Jan7.032214.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:
>In article <1if07cINN38u@fido.asd.sgi.com>, davis@bedlam.asd.sgi.com (Tom Davis) writes:
>> If you require instant gratification, consider using
>> Ilford XP2 film.
>
>Ask if they can print onto Ektamax, an XP like paper Kodak has just
>released.
>
>But you miss all the fun that way...

For a couple of reasons I can't/don't develop my own B&W negatives
so I split the difference.  I get my XP2 developed at a local one
hour place (costs a couple of bucks).  I bring the uncut roll of negatives
home, trim them into 5 frame strips, put them into clear plastic Viewall
35mm negative archival pages, put an 8x10" piece of glass (from an old
frame) on top, the archival page in the middle, and an 8x10" sheet of
paper at the bottom and contact print my proof sheet.

I usually only shoot 35 frames on a 36-37 frame roll of XP2, that way
I can fit the entire roll of film in a single archival page, and on
a single 8x10 proof sheet.  This is slightly wasteful but makes storing
the negatives and proof sheets easier without the extra couple of
negatives floating around.

I did get some Ilford non C-41 film developed at another local "pro"
lab a while back, and found that my correctly exposed negatives had
very low density and lousy contrast and were pretty much impossible
to salvage, I suspect that the chemicals were exhausted.  I figure
that it's best not to strain the resources of some "pro" labs, and
to stick to processes such as C-41 which they have to get moderately
correct most of the time to stay in business.
-- 
          Stacey Campbell - staceyc@sco.com - uunet!sco!staceyc
Xref: sparky rec.photo:22905 misc.forsale:34480 rec.scuba:6799
From: PXY@ECLX.PSU.EDU (Pen-Li Yen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale,rec.scuba
Subject: For Sale:Nikonos III Complete System-Cheap
Date: 4 Jan 93 05:48:42 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Penn State Engineering Computer Lab
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24

1. Nikonos III body, fully mechanic camera, shutter speed 1/30-1/500;
2. Nikkor 35mm f:2.5 mininum aperture 16, underwater lens;
3. Novatek underwater flash w/ bracket, oil resistant cable;
4. Nikonos close-up kit: 2 extention tubes and 3 frames for microphoto;
5. 28mm finder
6. 35-80mm finder
7. Nikonos photography-the camera abd system by Fred M. Roberts, 3rd ed.
8. Nikonos screw-in lens hood;
9. Underwater meter: Sekonic auto-lumi L-58 in underwater housing.

1, 2, 4, 8 with original manuals
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 with complete instructions in #7

All the above equipments are in excellent++ condition.

All for $500 + shipping 

Yuesea
803-654-8817
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Blad vs Mamiya (Lenses, Weight, Other)
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:19:16 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <451@rd1.interlan.com> tavernin@rd1.interlan.com (Victor Tavernini) writes:
>Just buy some used Hasselblad equipment in good condition ...
>You'll save alot of money, have great equipment, and probably get
>some sort of warrantee if you buy from a reputable dealer (not that
>you'd ever need it with Hassy equipment :-)

Yup. It certainly worked for me...

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Metz Dedicated Flash 40MZ-2 (Was: Metz Dedicated Flash for EOS)
Keywords: Metz Dedicated Flash 40MZ-2
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:27:56 GMT

In <1993Jan11.131946@cs.utwente.nl> belinfan@cs.utwente.nl (Axel Belinfante) writes:

>Could you (or someone else) elaborate a bit about the funky features of
>the SB-25? I know litle about it, and it would be interesting to compare...

Sure!  The SB-25 has a red-eye reduction mode which uses weak preflashes
before the main flash.  The other funky feature is "focal plane sync"
which allows flash exposures to 1/4000th (but only in manual mode).

>Wrt camera-specificic funky features: from the folder i got the impression
>that the _adaptors_ do have some knobs for camera-specific features
>(eg. TTL flash exp. compensation for Nikon, front-rear curtain sync selection)

I may be quite possible to put red-eye reduction into the adaptor.
I'm not sure if anything special needs to be done with FP sync.
Even so, only the F-90 supports the protocol to support these features...

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: v462etnn@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (David L Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Infrared questions
Date: 5 Jan 93 19:44:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1993Jan5.175939.8341@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, aaron@binah.cc.brandeis.edu writes...
>I have two questions regarding IR film:
> 
>1)  What developer should I use?  I have D-76 but a book I have read suggests
>D-19.  What differences are there between the two (I am only in the learning
>stage regarding film development).
> 

I've used D-76 with excellent results.  I developed the film just as if it 
were Tri-X (13-16 min. developer, 1 min stop, 5-8 fix, 2-3 hypo clear).

>2)  What speed should I rate the film?  The sheet that comes with the film
>says 50 but my book says 200 (I'm using Kodak IR film finally; Konica suggests
>32 speed).  I want to waste as little film as possible (it's expensive and 
>hard to come by) so what would more experienced IR photographers suggest?
> 

You'll read this a lot: rating comes with experience.  Kodak infrared is a
widely variable film.  I rated it at 200 (from some article in Darkroom Photo,
later Camera and Darkroom).  I've also done lots of weird stuff with it.
I've shot outdoors subjects using only a red filter (Wratten 25) as opposed to
the infrared filter (87?).  The pics aren't as exciting as with the infrared
filter.  I've shot in bars with and without the red25 and got good results.
Light bulbs tend to generate big white blobs, but that's part of the nature 
of experiementing.  BTW, most bar exposures ran from 30 sec. to 2 min. at f16
and f22.

An excellent source is Camera and Darkroom (prev. Darkroom Photography).
There was even an article on building an infrared meter several years ago.

>Thanks in advance.
> 
>  -- Scott

David Anderson
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: EOS grips (G-10...G-70), help!
Date: 8 Jan 93 23:36:53 GMT

In <1il0c6INNr12@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> cj531@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ali Momeni) writes:


>Hi all,
>	I need a grip for moy EOS 630 so I can hook up a remote.  I know
>that a G-20 will work.  Does anyone know ANYTHING abouth the other ones?
>What is their purpose?  What is different about them>  Which should I get?

I think I can help:

GR-30: Standard grip on EOS 650, 630, and RT.  Compatible with EOS 620.
	No cable release socket.
GR-20: Standard grip on EOS 620.  Optional for EOS 650, 630, and RT.
	Provides a cable release socket compatible with 60T3 remote
	release, and Cable Release Adaptor T3 (adapts conventional,
	mechanical cable releases--stick to the 60T3).
GR-10: Optional grip for EOS 620, 630, 650, and RT.  Oversized for
	larger hands.  No cable release socket.

GR-60: Grip extension and hand strap for EOS 10s.  No cable release
	socket.  (May provide vertical shutter button???)
GR-70: Grip extension and hand strap for EOS Elan.  No cable release
	socket.  (May provide vertical shutter button???)

There you go.  So you want a GR-20 and a 60T3.

You can sometimes find used GR-20's.  (I've seen a couple around the
local camera district.)  You can also find used 60T3's.  If not in
the EOS section, check in the FD section around the T90's, since the
60T3 was originally designed for it.

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: yankovic@hal.COM (Steve Yankovich)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F3HP/MD-4 For Sale
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:35:45 GMT
Organization: HAL Computer Systems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: viper.hal.com


Like new F3HP body and MD-4 motor drive for sale.

Both with original boxes and manuals.

Will not split, $650 for both OBO.

Reply yankovic@hal.com 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: stb@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (becker,sheldon t)
Subject: Portrait Soft Focus Filters
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 14:34:20 GMT
Keywords: Filters, Portrait

A while back, I asked for recommendations for soft focus effect filters, which
can be used while making portraits of people. 
Below is a summary, which represents the majority of the suggestions.

Nikon Soft 1, Tiffen Soft/FX filters (#1 or #3), Tiffen Softnet (2B or 3B), 
the Harrison/Harrison Difussion Filters and also Sailwind Diffusion Filters.  

I have seen examples of the Harrison/Harrison Filters and thought they did a
great job.  They, however, only come in a set of 5 filters and are 3"x3", and
cost about $200 for the set.

Dave Ziser, A well know Wedding Photographer, uses primarily the 3B.  Nancy
Brown, a NYC Glamour Photographer, uses the Nikon Soft 1 for a lot of her
work.  An Bob Shell, of Shutterbug, has given the Sailwind Glamour Diffusion 
Filters an excellent reveiw.

The effects from all of the filters vary considerably depending on the
contrast of the subject, the primary lens design, and also the apperature.

Xref: sparky rec.photo:23355 misc.forsale:35017
From: al@qiclab.scn.rain.com (Alan Peterman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale
Subject: Nikon Gear For Sale
Date: 10 Jan 93 20:37:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: qiclab.1993Jan10.203749.28119
Distribution: usa
Organization: SCN Research/Qic Laboratories of Tigard, Oregon.


             Nikon Camera Gear For Sale
 
Nikon EL2 black body with 50/2 AI lens.  Has automatic aperature priority
exposure plus full manual "match-needle" operation.  Shutter speeds from
8 seconds to 1/1000th, mirror lock up, depth-of-field preview, exposure
compensator.  Basically similar to FE.  Very nice condition
with "eveready" case.  $210 set.
 
Nikon FE black body with 50/2 AI lens.  Auto exposure (aperature
priority) plus manual "match needle".  Shutter speed from 8 sec to
1/1000th, depth of field, exposure compensator.  Manual 1/90th which is
the biggest difference (along with no MLU) between this and the EL2.
Decent condition - some small brassing and scratches on bottom.  $225.
 
Nikormat FTn with 50/2 non-AI lens. Mechanical, manual camera with match
needle metering.  Mirror lock, depth of field, self timer and such.
VERY nice cosmetic condition.  Meter shows some "jumpiness" so the ring
resistor should be cleaned.  How about $100 for the camera/lens combo.
 
Nikon N2000 motorized camera with 35-105 F3.5-4.5 Kiron lens.  Camera
has auto and program exposure modes, exposure lock, manual exposure
modes, and built in winder.  Lens "macro" focuses down to 1:4 ratio and
is one touch type zoom and focusing.  $240 with a soft pack case that
fits the zoom lens.
 
Nikor 100mm F2.8 series E lens.  AIS but no coupling tang.  Very nice
portrait lens.  Very nice condition.  $95.
 
Nikor 75-150 F3.5 series E lens.  AIS but no coupling "tang" for
older non-AI cameras.  $140.
 
Case for Nikon N2000 or N2020.  New in box, never used.  It's not the
Nikon brand case, but a copy, and fits lenses up to the 105 - or AF
lenses up to 85mm.  $15.
                            
             
I'm open to other configurations of bodies & lenses within reason.
I'll guarentee satisfaction on any of the equipment. Shipping is not
included, but should be pretty cheap for any of this stuff.  For more
info call or email.
 
-- 
Alan L. Peterman                                 (503)-684-1984 hm & work
                       al@qiclab.scn.rain.com
It's odd how as I get older, the days are longer, but the years are shorter!
From: samuel@cs.ubc.ca (Stephen Samuel)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Flimsy tripod suggestion
Date: 10 Jan 1993 19:52:27 -0800
Organization: Computer Science, University of B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
NNTP-Posting-Host: flip.cs.ubc.ca

jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson) writes:

>In the February Popular Photography Herbert Keppler says you can make
>a flimsy tripod rigid by hanging weight from the center.  I've also
>heard this suggested on rec.photo.  He also says that if you can't
>find something heavy to uses as a weight, just press down with your
>hand.  

>My question is "Why does this work"?  It seems that if I stress the
>tripod, that will flex its mechanical members to new equilibrium

My GUESS is as follows:
1) the extra weight stresses the tripod legs a bit, lessening their freedom
   of movement a bit.

2) any loose mechanical parts will tend to get pushed into a low-energy
   (stable) state.

3) the pressure couples the tripod/camera more tightly to the GROUND (even 
   in the case where you're pressing with your hand, you will tend to gain
   her, unless you are shaking pretty bad).
-- 
-- 
Stephen Samuel 		(604)822-9248		samuel@cs.ubc.ca
The first prerequisite to winning is playing the game.
From: barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 15:34:26 GMT
Subject: Re: OTF Metering Inaccuracies
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

>>
>> He noted, however, that there were three films which would require additional
>> correction to the OTF metered reading:
>> 
>> 	- Agfapan 25 document film
>> 	- Orwo NP15
>> 	- Kodak black & white infared film
> 
>
>Mike-
>
>Another film to be concerned about, is the Polaroid Pola-Slide film.  I
>don't think it had come out when Olympus did their testing.
>
>fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
>----------
I used to own an Olympus OM-4 and have read this on several occasions
in different publications. No one mentions, however, that the camera
will work just fine if you shoot in manual mode. Then you're using
Off The Curtain metering and the films reflecivity (is that a word?)
doesn't matter. 

     _
    [o] Barry Gunn x2281
    /|\ barryg@lsid.hp.com
From: dex@lprhp3.epfl.ch (Christian Decurnex)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Mirror_lock Up with EOS 1
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:33:31 GMT
Reply-To: dex@lprhp3.epfl.ch (Christian Decurnex)
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne


Hello,

How the EOS 1 can lock-up mirror ?

thanks
regards,

-- 

Christian Decurnex

IGA DP						Phone: ++41 21/693 33 85
Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne	FAX:   ++41 21/693 44 70
PH-Ecublens				
CH-1015 Lausanne
Switzerland					Email: dex@lprhp5.epfl.ch


"Nuclear Workers Make Better Lovers ...................... They're Hot !"
From: monson@ece.orst.edu (Ty Monson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon F3 quirk?
Date: 5 Jan 93 20:17:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Oregon State University, Corvallis
NNTP-Posting-Host: hobo.ece.orst.edu


In article <1ic0v5INNp9u@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM writes:
>Friend asked to post a question here.  He has a Nikon F3 whose
>meter & shutter speed sometimes seem to "stick" in the 1/80 sec
>(flash sync) speed.  Even if he adjusts shutter speed to manual,
>although the dial turns, the speeds as reflected in the meter, and
>in the actual tripping of the shutter, remain at 1/80.  If he
>then fusses a little with the shutter dial, removes the lens, 
>everything is fine again.  Has anyone heard of this?  Is his
>battery low?

 I believe the F3 does this until the frame counter reads "1".
 Is your friend running into his problem midroll? (which would 
 indicate a need for repair) Or is he getting bent outta shape
 while fooling with an empty camera?
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: glp@fig.citib.com (Greg Parkinson)
Subject: Nikon Lenses - More
Originator: glp@merlin
Organization: Citibank IBISM
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:19:14 GMT


Thanks to all the people who mailed me information.

A hungry lot!  I'm not sure yet what I'm going to 
keep or sell.

What I have is:

Zoom-NIKKOR 28-45 4.5 AI
Zoom-NIKKOR 35-105 3.5-4.5 AIS
Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200 4.5 AI
NIKKOR 50 1.4 AI
Micro-NIKKOR 55 2.8 AIS
NIKKOR 24 2 AI

and

Nikon Teleconverter TC-200 2x
FE2 black body
FE chrome

and

Vivitar 5600 flash

Any comments on what's good, OK, etc?

Greg
-- 
Greg Parkinson                  Phone: 212-657-7814  Fax: 212-825-8607
Citibank,111 Wall Street        E-Mail: glp@fig.citib.com
New York, New York  10043
The opinions expressed are my own and not those of the big 'ol bank.
From: sb@next.neuro.emory.edu (Stephen O. Berger)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: mail order
Date: 7 Jan 1993 18:49:54 GMT
Organization: Emory University, Dept of Math and CS
Reply-To: sb@next.neuro.emory.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: next.neuro.emory.edu

Hi netters,
	I've never mail ordered photo equipments before, but intend to do  
so now.  A couple things that I'd like to hear from you netters out there  
are:
	1). Are the mail order dealers generally of reasonable reputation?   
are there bad spots that I should avoid?
	2). Do I get absolutely no warrantees on the lower priced  
(compared to retail) mail order cameras?

	Thanks in advance.
liming@ipx1.neuro.emory.edu
Xref: sparky rec.photo:23033 alt.binaries.pictures.erotica.d:10623 alt.sex.movies:4492 ba.announce:312
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Camerabag for mediumformat
Date: 8 Jan 1993 13:34:38 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Check out the Lowe-Pro Phototrekker bags..the regular size one holds
lots of hassy gear....I can jam two bodies, three lenses, two backs, a proshade,
a Proflash and bracket and all sorts of other stuff including a meter or
two into it and it is very comfortable to walk with...

brian
From: umeca80@ps.ic.ac.uk (Bruce Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: T-Max reversal developer & Tech. Pan
Date: 8 Jan 93 12:57:15 GMT
Organization: Imperial College Computer Centre

Has anyone had any experience if using T-Max Reversal Developer in particular
with Technical Pan. 

What are the results like ? 

Are there any known problems ? 

Thanks, 

 Bruce

===============================================================================
Bruce Taylor                                    Process Systems Engineering
umeca80@ps.ic.ac.uk                             Imperial College, London
===============================================================================
From: weinhous@castor.hahnemann.edu (Martin S. Weinhous Ph.D.)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mac, of course (Was Re: IBM vs. Mac for stock business)
Date: 9 Jan 1993 12:52:47 -0500
Organization: Hahnemann University
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: castor.hahnemann.edu
Keywords: image manipulation

In article <93Jan09.163301.18195@acs.ucalgary.ca> panlilio@acs.ucalgary.ca (Victor P. Panlilio) writes:
:In article <1993Jan08.181221.191081@zeus.calpoly.edu> glporter@zeus.calpoly.edu (Glen Porter) writes:
:
:>example, you will only see a Macintosh as a file server for macintoshs'.
:
:This is a limitation of the hardware and software architecture
:for a machine that is programmed primarily for an event-driven
:user interface. You don't see DOS being used on Intel x86 file
:servers, do you? Of course not! And NetWare 3.11 is not exactly
:an everyday operating system for the average user, either.

In my environment, a Silicon Graphics Iris 4D340VGX and a DECStation 5000/240
PGX+ are both serving as servers for a flock of Macs (via NFS and either
direct ethernet or via a GatorBox router). They are all happy campers. In
addition, the Macs can easily run X-Windows meaning that applications
which run on the very-high-powered unix boxes display on the Macs.
:
:>IBM's are true workhorses.  Macs are pretty, and "safe", which slows the 
:>Mac down to a crawl.  

Macs are comperable to, or faster than, Intel-powered boxes for imaging-type
applications. If raw speed is an issue, then one should consider an
SGI Iris Indigo 4K. Day by day more imaging applications are being ported
to Irises and they are wicked fast. Their Unix is now front-ended with
a Macintosh/Windows type user interface ("Workspace"). They also come with
an application called Showcase which can be described as a superset of
most slide presentation programs. Ok, they cost more than a Mac or
equivalently powered Intel-powered box. :-) :-)

-- 

Martin S. Weinhous, Ph.D.		weinhous@radonc.hahnemann.edu
Radiation Oncology, MS-102
Hahnemann University 			office: (215) 762 - 8616
Broad & Vine				fax:    (215) 762 - 7683
Philadelphia, PA 19102-1192		home:   (215) 564 - 5986
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Bogen 3051 tripod: quick leg release?
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:23:58 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.020858.24390@walter.bellcore.com>, hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:
...
> Could you explain how the triggers linked to the leg joints?  The thing
> I'd like to know is whether having the above-described feature affects
> the overall ruggedness of the joints.   I doubt that 12.65 lbs tripod is
> aever designed with any strength-related problem.  But I'd like to hear
> how useful in practice this feature is from real owners.
> 

I have the Manfroto. The first leg section is operated by a push-rod in the leg
tube. These have trigger leavers at the TOP of the leg, one per leg, plus a
3 pointed star trigger that actuates all 3 at once. No strength problems at all
( I demo mine by geting on top and jumping up and down! One day I'll probably
slip and impail myself... )

I real life it's magik! If I've the lot set up for it, I can have it off my
shoulder and at minium hight in about 3 secs, plus 5 sec to mount the camera.
This is without a lot of practice. A later head ( I've an early "pro" head,
without the camlock ) the 5 secs would be nearer 2.

For higher work, you swing it off your shoulder to the height you want the head,
or a bit below, shove on the release trigger and 'wriggle' it to spread the
legs, level, and let go. then tighten the 3 leg locks. About 10 sec.

The one weak point is where the head table joins the center tube. It is a quite
fine pitch thread ( ~.8mm? ) and can chew out from vibration etc. I solved this
by putting a 3/8 UNC threaded rod through the center of the tube, from top to
bottom tables. Adds to the weight, but what the hell...

~Paul
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Rollei AF Prego (w/ Schneider lens) - I have
Leica Mini - I want, they boost clear blow-ups to 16X20

Both run ~$350 (don't be fooled by the adds in shutterbug, the Rollei
advertised is with the Rollinar lens not the Schneider and the Leica
mini is sold with out a case and without the data back.  Rollei comes
with a data back and case.)        

Cole
Newsgroups: rec.photo