HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mopar 360 V-8 questio
Date: 29 Dec 92 20:21:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  >>>Date: 28 Dec 92 13:03:37 GMT >>>Sender: news@oasys.dt.navy.mil

PP>>>>Mopar engines are pretty tough.  Best thing you can do to your engine
  >>>>is to avoid short trips, warm it thoroughly, change the oil at reasonable
  >>>>intervals and don't lug it.  Lugging, particularly accompanied by detonat
  >>>>is the worst thing you can do to a motor.
  >>>>
  >>>>John

PP>>>John, (or anybody), could you elaborate on why lugging an engine is the
  >>>worst thing you can do to it?  What harm does it do to the engine?
  >>>I've heard that it can cause head gasket problems.  Is this true?

Lugging the engine generally results in a LOT of unburned fuel which
ends up in two places, the air and the oil. Lugging being defined as
close too wide open throttle at a low rpm. You will have maximum
pressure in the cylinders, unburned fuel will also tend to wash oil off
the cylinder walls, and as already noted, pinging usually occurs and
that can destroy rings,pistons and blocks if continuous.
Hope this helped...
                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                         
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Ye Olde Bailey BBS   713-520-1569 (V.32bis) 713-520-9566 (V.32bis)     |
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jbb@vcd.hp.com (Jim Becker)
Subject: SHO Clutch Problem
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 23:54:30 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5


I have an 89 Taurus SHO with about 65000 miles on it.  I bought it 
used about a year ago from a guy who said some warranty work had
been done on both the clutch and the transmission.

Everything worked fine until about a month ago when the clutch became
hard to push in.  It acts differently at different times.  Sometimes
it has "Sticky spots" as it travels down to the floor, other times
it is just hard to push in all the way, after long drives on the 
freeway (15 minutes or so) it is usually back to normal.

I've looked in the tech manual and know for the most part how the clutch
assembly is constructed, however its my understanding that getting to 
the actual clutch requires dropping both the engine and the transmission
out the bottom of the car (I can't do that).

Does anyone know:

1.  Does the SHO Taurus usually have this problem?
2.  Which parts are usually the culprit?
3.  Does Ford have an upgrade set of parts for this, or do I just have
    the same parts put back in? Just to break again?
4.  Did I induce this problem by driving it a certain way (downshifting)?

If this is a problem which will keep coming back I'm tempted to sell it
and buy an Accura (sp?).

Thanks in Advance.
Jim Becker
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jstine@logiconultra.com (Jim Stine)
Subject: Re: Help needed on volvo starting problem
Organization: Logicon_Ultrasystems
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 01:04:49 GMT

In article <BzJ9r7.HH@sdf.lonestar.org> rajagopa@sdf.lonestar.org (Hari  
Rajagopal) writes:
>  
> 
> Hi ,
> 	I have a strange problem with my 1980 Volvo DL, The sequence
> of events is as follows:
> 
> 	Over a few weeks I have noticed the dash lights flicker at
> 	random, intermittently and then disappear, this I attributed
> 	to loose wiring harness etc:-
> 
> 	Three days ago it was wet and cold (Dallas) and the car got a 
> 	soaking to the bone!! Then the problems started:-
> 
> 	The engine cut out after driving 2 mi in the morning and had to
> 	be jump started. However it just needed a touch from the jumper
> 	cables to start (1 second or so). 
> 
> 	I drove 20 mi to school and parked. All well in the evening when
> 	I started and THEN suddenly the engine died after 1-2 mi.
> 
> 	Again jumped but then the following has been reccurring:
> 		a)	needs just a touch of the cable clips to start
> 		b)	Dies as soon (30 sec) of jumper removal
> 	I also had the battery recharged and the engine started on the
> 	first turn and drove beautifully for 20 mi. Then I parked it
> 	overnight. Morning (cold) started fine drove 2 mi then same
> 	problems started again. Since then I have just kept it garaged.
> 
> Any advice, ???
> 	My guess is there is something wrong with the earthing , or maybe 
> 	the alternator is not taking over when the engine starts, but the
> 	drivebelt seems fine (havent checked alternator o/p yet) can
> 	someone give me some pointers??
> 			Thanks in advance.
> 
> 						Hari Rajagopal//

Yeah, I had similar problems with my '83 GL.  What happens is, there's a  
wiring harness that wraps around the front underside of the engine.  Heat  
from the engine causes the insulation on these wires to crack. The wires  
short and all sorts of problems occur.  My lights would dim and get  
brighter.  Anyway, the problem really manifested itself for me when I went  
to sell the car.  A real nice family came over and we went for a test  
drive.  We got about one mile out and all the lights went out and the  
engine died.  We had to jumper the battery and I wiggled the harness to  
get it running again.

Anyway, they made me an offer anyway.  The next day, I took the car to a  
Volvo mechanic and he took a look at the wiring in that harness.  He told  
me about the cracking problem.  He said that what they do is remove the  
lower shroud, pull the offending wire(s) out of the harness, replace and  
reconnectorize them.  He had a flat charge of $45 for the service.  I was  
very happy.

I hope this helps.  By the way, the family came back and bought the car  
the next day.

Good luck,

Jim Stine
jstine@logiconultra.com

No disclaimers...
From: phil@mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com (Phil English)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: <<<<<HELP DIESEL FUEL MILEAGE (REPOST)>>>>
Keywords: DIESEL
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:21:52 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Santa Cruz, CA.


	I am still lookinkg for the cure to my fuel mileage trouble. After 
this my truck must go into the shop.

	The veh. is a 1986 Ford F-250 4-WD diesel. The mileage dropped from 
a norm of 19 mpg to about 12 mpg rather suddenly last June.
	No other symptoms have become evident. The power has NOT 
dropped. An increase in black smoke is NOT evident. The coolant 
temperature is normal. There are NO fuel leaks. None of the bearing 
surfaces IE: U-joints, hubs, differential, wheel bearings or xmission 
become overheated durring extended operation. The fuel and air filters 
are new. The truck starts easily.
	The only possible clue: This occured generally following 
replacement of the water seperator and injector fuel return lines. The 
seperator drain plugged and ALL the return line Tee's started leaking 
almost simeltaneously somewhere durring this period of time. It seems 
suspecious but I cant see the direct relationship. My F. filter was 
algae free. Can this be a "wax" problem? I live on the coast of 
central California. The weather sometimes is over 100 deg F. I feel 
the wax would be redisolved at these temps.

	Anybody with suggestions, please E-Mail your response.

				(B{   Thanks, Phil	
From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 17:59:20 GMT
Subject: Re: 2.8 race motors for sale
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I would like to talk to you about the motors you had
forsale please call me at 408-993-4098.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: HELP: Identify Alum Con Rod Brand
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 22:29:36 GMT

What Brand of Aluminum connecting Rods are these, For a big block chevy. They
have the Letters BRC cast into the rod bearing cap.

Kris

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi (Henri R Helanto)
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog? specs?
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Date: 22 Dec 92 01:06:40 GMT

In <1992Dec19.150118.1@fennel.cc.uwa.oz.au> justin@fennel.cc.uwa.oz.au writes:

>Just as a matter of intrest has anyone got the actuall specs for
>output of a XJ-12.....in BHP please.
>Justin...

	The owner's manual doesn't tell much (I hate these translated
	manuals and I don't have the original at hand now). The output
	is 209kW (280HP NET - about 370BHP?), max torque is 415Nm
	at 2800rpm. I don't remember how much that is in lbsft...
	Those specs were for the 5.3l version of the engine.
	The 6.0l version puts out someting like 330HP NET but it's
	available with the XJR-S only. 

	Performance isn't as good as you would expect from that
	kind of horsepower. Jaguar Sovereign weighs 3700lbs,
	Jaguar XJ-S V12 3500lbs and XJR-S 3300lbs. They're HEAVY.

-Henri
-- 
Henri Helanto - SysOp
hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi m40176m@puukko.hut.fi
Call MyBBS (+358-0-485067/485068/485968/485918/488139, 24h) !
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:17313 rec.autos:30809
From: duncan@informix.com (Duncan Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: REQUEST: Info 4runner Explorer
Date: 31 Dec 92 17:20:17 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Hello,

My wife and I are currently looking at 4runners and Explorers.
Most of the Fords we've been looking at are Eddie Bauer editions,
(we want power everything, sunroof etc).

I would like to get info from those of you who have purchased 
"loaded" '92 or '93 4runners or Explorers.  If you could give me your 
opinions on the vehicles, and what you feel the invoice price (or
what you paid..) for the vehicle. 

Please e-mail responses to duncan@informix.com

Thanks,

Duncan


                                                     MOOOOO...
                    /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\                A/~~\A
                    | -     Duncan Moore     - |               ((o  o))___    
                    |     Informix Software    |                 \  /     ~~~
    #               |     Programmer/Analyst   |  #              (--)\    #  
----#---x---x---x---|   Phone:(415) 926-6516   |--#---x---x---x---x---x---#---
    #               \__________________________/  #                    \  #   
----#---x---x---x---x--| |--#---x---x---x-| |--x--#---x---x---x---x---x---#---
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end of
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                    | -     Duncan Moore     - |               ((o  o))___    
                    |     Informix Software    |                 \  /     ~~~
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Stalling fixed.
Date: 22 Dec 92 13:14:25 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


    A few weeks ago I came to the net with a stalling problem on my '90
Cavalier. The engine stalled sometimes when I put it into gear. I checked
it over and found that the throttle body bolts were a little loose. I
torqued them down and fixed my problem. That's the kind of fix I like (no 
$$$$).

                            Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wisznie@ecf.toronto.edu (WISZNIEWSKI SEBASTIAN)
Subject: Slick 50
Organization: University of Toronto, Engineering Computing Facility
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 19:09:22 GMT

Has anyone ever used SLICK 50 ? 
If so, does it do what the bottle says it should do?
-- 
 
     Sebastian Wiszniewski  (9T5)   
      University of Toronto           
 I-NET: wisznie@skule.ecf.toronto.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zzang@stat.ufl.edu (zzang)
Subject: HELP: rear wheel bearing noises
Originator: zzang@manta
Organization: University of Florida
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 21:09:11 GMT

Hello, 
I have a 80 Subaru, it is front wheel
drive with drum brakes on the rear wheels.
it has hum noises from the right rear wheel bearing.
is it a serious problem? can i drive safely
on a long distance way?(200 miles)

the hum noises will be louder when
the speed increases(40mph).
I once try to reassemble the bearing.
the bearings look fine, and it doesn't
have any damages. after repacking, the noises
reduced, but not completely dissappear.
I am wondering if I did all things right
during the repacking. here are a few questions
on repacking the bearings:
1. locking compound
which is suggested by the manual. both the
inner and outer bearings came out of the brake
drum, but i didn't use any locking compounds and
just simply push the inner bearing onto the
axle and then the drum, and then the outer bearing.
I thought the axle nut will strong enough to
hold them together.

2. bearing grease
I used high temp grease. the question is
how much is enough.

3. torque on axle nut and pre-load procedure
I don't understand what is the pre-load procedure.
the manual mentions it, but didn't give the details
in reference. the only advice I can find is:
tighten the axle nut 36 ft-lb and then back it off
slightly. turn the drum back and forth to make sure
that the bearings seat properly.

any advices will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!


-- 
Zhuo Zang[~{j0WA~}]
Department of Statistics
University of Florida            Email: zzang@stat.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Mopar 360 V-8 question
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 20:27:05 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Cupertino, CA

From: Harry.Johnson@launchpad.unc.edu (Harry Johnson)

>I kind of have the willies about driving the van at highway speeds,
>though.  I don't know what a reasonable top running speed for prolonged
>(120 miles or more) trips is and don't want to wear out the engine really
>fast.  I have rather arbitrarily set a limit for myself of 2700-2800 rpm
>for continuous freeway driving.

I own a 360 in a Dodge 3/4 ton pickup.  I've run it thousands of miles
up and down I5 at 3500 RPM, with occasional periods to 4000 RPM, with 
no noticeable ill effect except for increased noise and gas consumption.

I think your range would be ideal, but if you have 4.10 gears and
no overdrive (typical for an older Dodge), you will be stuck at about 
60 MPH, too slow for most of us.

>Do you think that this is a reasonable speed at which to run this engine? 
>Am I underestimating the durability of the engine at high speeds (i.e.,
>could I run at 3500 rpm without problems)?  Am I really saving any wear
>and tear with this sort of limit?

Well, maybe a little, but this engine is designed to run faster.

>On a more general front, what is the best speed at which to run an engine
>so that it lasts the longest possible?  50% of redline? Idle?

If taken care of, the engine should last 150k -- 200k miles, even if
you run 3500 RPM.  What eventually breaks is statistical, and while
one might as an academic exercise demonstrate that one could increase
the average 10k miles by driving slower, the return of value for one's
time would surely be maximized by changing the oil more frequently,
or even by changing to a higher speed differential. 

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: xxkozak@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GEORGE KOZAK)
Subject: Re: HELP: Identify Alum Con Rod Brand
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 31 Dec 1992 00:54 EST  

In article <C03uAq.1rn@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu>, colclasr@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (George Colclasure) writes...
>ljb@parkcity.dr.att.com (BLO54620-BonhamLJ(DR2194)240) writes:
> 
>>In article <1992Dec29.162936.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov>, schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
>>|> What Brand of Aluminum connecting Rods are these, For a big block chevy. They
>>|> have the Letters BRC cast into the rod bearing cap.
>>|> 
>>|> Kris
>> 
> 
>To the best of my knowledge, BRC stands for Brooks Racing Components.
>Look at the Advertisers Index in the back of the N.H.R.A.'s (National
>Hot Rod Association) weekly newspaper "National Dragster" for their
>ad and address.
> 
>Brooks Racing Components makes aluminum rods for various engines in the
>500 to 3000 horsepower range (from  sportsman classes to top fuel nitro-
>methane classes).
>

    Brooks Aluminum Rods
    230 East Emerson Ave.
    Orange, CA  92665

    714/921-1510   or   800/841-6453 outside CA

     George Kozak
     Kozak Racing  

>                                B.F.D. Racing
>                         383 - 400 - 413 - 426 - 440
>        Sixties and Seventies Big-Block Wedge-Head MOPARs our specialty
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sherod@newton.Colorado.EDU (Scott Herod)
Subject: Sugar in gas?  Test
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 00:59:43 GMT

I was wondering if there is some way to test for sugar/honey in the fuel 
tank.  It's a long story involving a dog, a stereo, and the phone company
but I am afraid I may now have some strange substances in the fuel
tank. Is there a way to test or would you just drain the tank on general
principles?  Will sugar disolve in the water in the gas or should it all
be dumped?

Scott Herod
From: hacksaw@cellar.org (Hacksaw)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: My car won't reverse. Again!
Date: 22 Dec 92 07:32:34 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system


 
Help!
 
  I have a '79 Buick Regal with Automatic Transmission. A few days ago,
all of a sudden, I discovered there was something wrong with my reverse
gear.
 
  There is no problem moving the gearshift to the reverse position, and
the car does _roll_ backward. When I give it some gas, there is no
reversing power applied. The engine revvs, but there is no pull. The gear 
now acts almost as a neutral with a slight roll backwards. So, I'm pretty 
much screwed if I drive into a parking spot with a downward slope.
 
  All the other gears are working fine(including both lows). I checked the
transmission fluid and it is full(a tad above full).
 
  Could it be the linkage? Or the transmission bands? Is there a perticular
spot I should check first?? From what I just said, does it sound like a
weekends mechanic's job? 
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
hacksaw@cellar.org
 

------
hacksaw@cellar.org (Hacksaw)
The Cellar BBS - (215) 539-3043
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Buick Century now has power!!
Date: 30 Dec 92 22:16:30 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering



:Where do I buy one of these?  I don't recall ever seeing one at my local name brand
:parts stores.   Also, how inexpensive are they?? 
:

$14.95 in jcwhitney.  Interestingly the blurb talks about improving
combustion by changing the air fuel mixture.  Eliminates ping, you
will get 100mpg, etc.  It says nothing about carbon buildup.

looks like all it is is a vaccuum t fitting, and a jar with a valve.
i would hope it has a mechanism to shut down when it runs out of water.


--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Car Insurance
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Dec 92 19:21:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Last time I checked, uninsured coverage is required by law in all
-> states.

 It isn't required in Arkansas, at least it wasn't two months ago.
                                                                                
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: markm@triton.unm.edu ()
Subject: Selection of High Performance Carb
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 92 03:37:30 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Summary: EEnie Meenie Meini Moe, Pick a carb that'll really go! 

          

     

     Hello there sports fans!

     

Time for a carbureator quiz.   It's time that I select

     the perfect carb for my car, and I have at my disposal

     several candidates that I am considering for the

     purpose.  I own all of them, and for me it's simply a

     matter of just rebuilding the carb, and selecting the

          intake manifold.

     

I have a holly 4160, a rochester quadrajet, the stock

     motocraft 4bbl, and my current favorite, a carter

     thermoquad which I just cannibalized from a 1976

          Plymouth Gran Fury state police car.

     

My car is a 5000+ pound 1970 Mercury Marauder with a

     429 CJ engine, 383:1 rear end, C6 Trans with a shift

     kit installed, and lots of looks and style.  My desire

     is to make this thing a compromise:  excellent mileage

     for a beast of its size, while simultaneously able to

     lay 100ft patches of rubber and do the 1/4 mile in

          under 14 sec.  

     

Just to let you know, I have been considering the

     offenhauser 360 as an intake, and the cam/lifter set

     has yet to be chosen;  I am however leaning towards a

     cam that is 2-3 steps above the OEM.   Compression is

     11.00:1, and the ignition is all electronic (mallory)

     with a peak-limiter, although I doubt seriously that

          I'll ever push it to that extreme.   

     

The heads are currently being ported and polished

     (although there isn't alot more that can be removed

     from the CJ heads from what I am told), and a local

          company is putting together the

dual exhaust package with 2.00 inch (I think he said)

          pipe through a pair of turbo muffs.  

     

All in all, its a pretty respectable package, needing

     lots of final assembly.  So, what carb will be best,

          huh guys?

     

I lean toward the Carter Thermoquad for one reason. 

     The primaries are small - about 1" diameter -  (same

     size as the stock motocraft and the rochester), while

     the secondaries are in excess of 2.00" diameter - have

     yet to measure exact - (twice the size off all the

     carbs mentioned)!    I figure the small primaries will

     give me the economy I am looking for, while the large

     secondary bores will propel this detroit dinosaur at

          warp 9!

     

     What do you guys think?

     

Also, does anyone know of an aftermarket manufacturer

     of spread-bore intakes for the 429 CJ?   I am not sure

     that the offenhauser 360 I have been lusting after

          comes in a spreadbore configuration.

     

     Thanks for the E-Mail!

     

     MARK F. MITCHAM

MARKM@TRITON.UNM.EDU
From: judy <judy@nepac.ucsd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: wheel bearings
Date: 22 Dec 1992 00:40:30 GMT
Organization: scripps inst. of oceanography
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: alfa.ucsd.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d13
X-XXMessage-ID: <A75BA3FD6B011B32@alfa.ucsd.edu>
X-XXDate: Mon, 21 Dec 92 16:40:29 GMT

Re: wheel bearings

You can check your wheel bearings by jacking up the suspected tire,
holding
it at 3 and 9 (or 12 and 6) and seeing how much play is there.  Vehicles
have varying 
amounts of play, but this is a pretty good method for checking.  Good
luck!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 2 MPG better milage
From: zaphod@vax1.mankato.msus.edu
Date: 27 Dec 92 18:24:19 -0600
Organization: Mankato State University

two