HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
X-Acknowledge-To: <PH500000@BROWNVM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 10:05:08 EST
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Cheapo router bit mishap

What brand of router bit were you using?



                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ell@linus.mitre.org (Edward L. Lafferty)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 19:44:35 GMT

In article <1k3lbqINN48s@zippy.telcom.arizona.edu> tsf@Arizona.EDU (Ted Frohling) writes:


   Well, I`m about 1/4 the way thru building the cabinetry for a new home.  Red Oak
   with red oak plywood.   Using blum slides, and hinges.  Finishing with verathane.
   Haven't decided on the counter top material yet, leaning towards formica or 
   Wilson Art laminates.  Have about 75 lineal feet all together.

You might want to consider Corian. Its not as hard as you might think
to work and it is really nice looking and durable. Expensive, though.
Comes in 8' x25" sheets, etc.

--
Regards,
Ed Lafferty

----------------------------------->>
External:                           Internal Mail addresses at MITRE: 
ell@mitre.org			ell@Ed   (Unix mail)
From: kennardn@phred.UUCP (Kennard Nielsen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Milling logs
Date: 22 Jan 93 21:15:37 GMT
Reply-To: kennardn@phred.UUCP
Organization: Physio-Control

Well, greetings from the Pacific Northwest - firewood capital of the world. Seriously, as
we are cleaning up from the recent winstorms a bonanza of fallen logs are available and I
would like to mill some of them into useable lumber rather than firewood.

-has anyone had good/bad experiences with small, portable log milling bandsaws?
-is it worth the effort?
-I've heard that air dried wood is not as structurally sound as kiln dried wood; true/false?
-what would be a fair price for a used/new machine.

I'll post a summary of all responses I receive. Thanks.

Kennard Nielsen
!uunet!pilchuck!kennard
W: (206)867-4820
H: (206)868-3293
F: (206)867-4666
From: rtrudel@zarathustra.prime.com (Robin Trudel)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: grinder question
Summary: Hand Grinders
Keywords: Grinder
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:14:49 GMT
Organization: Computervision

If you aren't afraid to get your hands dirty look at the flea markets and
yard sales.  I recently purchased a hand grinder for $2.50 (a steal) and 
I see them frequently.

I have had great success with mine.  Surprisingly enough you can get quite
a few rpms with one that is in good shape.

Good Luck
Robin the Woodcarver
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: workbench height
Date: 28 Jan 93 18:35:15 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1993Jan28.091535.1@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com> 
kaliher@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com writes:

>> : So, what height is appropriate? ...  It really comes
>> down to what you feel comfortable with, though.
>> 
>> If I have to stoop at all my back starts to bother me.  If you start
>> high you can make the bench shorter later on.
>> 
>I have the same problem with my back.  My wish is to find an old barber's
>chair to install in my shop, and rebuild it into a work bench.  Fully 
>adjustable height, rotates 360 degrees, can be locked at any position.  
>Maybe even with tilt capability, and sturdy enough for most any project.
>My more immediate goal is to devise a bench with a hydraulic feature to 
>control the height.  Retractable casters would be nice also.
>
>I can dream, can't I?

It sounds like you'd be very happy with a hydraulic motorcycle lift.  The
good ones are very sturdy, and the height is easily adjustable from about
8" to about 36", by means of a very convenient foot pump.  All you'd need to
do is encase the metal benchtop in wood.  The ones made by Grazia in Italy
are among the best.  They don't rotate, but they do roll around if you want.

I'm only half serious, but I have no doubt that one of these lifts could make
a great workbench if someone was motivated to convert it.

Regards,

Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, California
badboy@netcom.com
From: bagley@bagley.cc.vt.edu (Victor L. Bagley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: test
Date: 27 Jan 93 20:30:15 GMT

test is anyone there
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 14:45:36 GMT
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Steve Bellovin writes:  
>
>In article <4320147@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>   The magnetic switch is not the solution for your problem, Steve.
>>   
>>   You problem is the location of the switch, not the way it functions.
>> 
>>   You can reposition your switch on the contractor's saw much easier
>>   and cheaper than buying a magnetic switch for ~$80.00.
>> 
>>   The magnetic switch has two momentary switches that trigger a 
>>   magnetic relay.  The power flowing through the saw keeps the switch
>>   open.   Any break in the circuit shuts off the saw AND the relay.
>>   The break can come from the "momentary off" button on the switch,
>>   or from unplugging the saw (or from a power failure, or overload
>>   protection circuit, etc.).
>
>I understand how it works.  My previous posting was a bit too brief; let
>me explain a bit more.
>
>I think I saw the idea in FWW, though it could have been elsewhere.  You
>hang a board (say, 8x8, or whatever fits) in front of the magnetic switch,
>with a cut-out in front of the ``ON'' button.  To turn the saw on, you
>stick your finger through the hole, to reach the button.  But to turn it
>off, just bang *anywhere* on the board.  The point is that turning off
>the saw becomes a simple operation -- there's a large surface to aim for,
>and a very non-critical direction vector.  I don't care where a toggle
>switch is; it's a small target, and you have to press it in just the right
>direction.
>----------
   Again, I feel the need to point out that a magnetic switch is not 
   necessary for this.  I have a mechanical switch on my jointer that
   is not magnetic, but has a startand stop button just like a magnetic
   switch, and could be set up exactly as you describe here.

   There is a whole world of mechanical switches in hundreds of different
   configurations, and most of them are under $5.00 each.  The mechanical
   start-stop switch on my jointer could easily be purchased through an
   electrical supply specialty shop for under $20.00.  

   Unless you need the relay operation of the magnetic switch, it is hard
   to see why you should pay $70 - $100 for one.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sread@kipling.webo.dg.com (Steve Read)
Subject: Re: To make OAK hard for drumstick.
Date: 25 Jan 93 14:18:40 GMT
Organization: NSDD, Data General Corp.

>>>>> On 20 Jan 93 14:27:48 +1100, u5557908@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au said:

	r> ... turning Japanese and Amercian OAK into drumstick for my son.
	r> ...a process to harden the oak so that it will give a correct sound.

This may be completely off the mark but in a recent article on
baseball bats a process called boning came up.  It seems that baseball
players used to rub their bats with bones to harden the surface.  A
representative of the Louisville Slugger Co. (a bat manufacturer) was
quoted to the effect that rubbing the wood with any smooth object (eg
a bottle, a bone) burnished the surface changing it's properties
slightly.  
--
----------------------------------------------------------------------
s. e. read | sread@kipling.webo.dg.com | data general corp | nsdd onsd
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 "(Did you) Ever notice that there weren't many Nazi's named Steve?"
  (Joe Piscopo on SNL as Andy Rooney)
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 28 Jan 93 15:31:35 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Laboratories

In article 2294@bdrc.bdrc.bd.com, ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi) writes:
|>
|> Talking about the Delta Deluxe Unigard (new version of the old Uniguard) 
|>
|>>Can you or somebody describe to the rest of us in some 
|>>detail how it mounts? 
|>
|>Sure, I'll try.  To start with, this guard differs 
|>from the old unigard in that the vertical support is 
|>on the right instead of the left.  Keeping this in 
|>mind, the device includes a large, U-shaped piece of 
|>steel tubing ~ 2 in. OD.  
|>
|>
|>                   OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
|>                 OO   WW                    O
|>             OOOO                           O
|>      _______I_I___________________________ O
|>      I  X         X   IOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOXOOOO
|>      I  front of saw  I
|>      I                I
|>

Thanks for this information. Your ASCII diagrams were
quite helpful.

A couple of questions:

How high can the guard be raised above the table top? ( I would need
about 5" clearance for a sliding cutoff table that I use.)

Can the the whole guard be remove or swung out of the way easily? 
(There are some operations such making the cheek cuts on tenons
that would seem to require this.)


---
  	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question (availability of tools)
Date: 22 Jan 93 02:49:45 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1993Jan19.133337.1@max.u.washington.edu> games@max.u.washington.edu writes:
>>>I am curious because someone said used 3-phase industrial machines 
>>>can be bought cheap.

>> The reason, of course, is that few people have 3-phase power for them;
>> hence there's little demand.

>There is in fact, not little demand.  There is a great demand for these things,
>however, it is a commercial demand.  People who run large shops need these
>kinds of tools.  This means that there are a lot of them out there.  The 
>commercial quality end of the home use market is small, and hence the price is
>higher.

I don't know about your area, but 'round here, furniture makers and other
woodworking companies are dying in droves.  Making vast quantities of
3 phase gear available on the used market.  Used 3 phase gear places can
barely give it away.

In spite of the slow-down, certain types of single phase gear are still
moving quickly.  One used equipment dealer told me it was all of the
laid-off woodworkers trying to make a go of it making stuff in their
garages and basements.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: cashalk@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (KURT SHALKHAUSER)
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 27 Jan 1993 08:32 EST  

In article <1993Jan22.230557.28459@crd.ge.com>, kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover) writes...
> 
>My wife has informed me that she would disapprove of my attending
>any Makita presentations, unless there was a Mr. to go with the
>Miss.  I've thought about writing to Makita and telling them
>about this sad state of affaires, but I haven't got around to it yet.
> 
> 
>Some years ago, the lab I was working at received a calendar from
>a pneumatic fitting company, with "those kinds" of pictures in
>it.  One of the female persons in the labs took exception to it,
>and wrote to the company.  She got a letter from the model in
>question.  Seems this model is an engineer with this fitting
>company, the possessor of two Ph.D.s (talk about doubledomedness
>8-), and appears in the calendars because she enjoys the
>modelling and the photography...
> 
>-- 
>David 


David,

It is interesting that you brought up this issue, and frankly I'm quite 
impressed...anyone with the motivation to acquire 2 Ph.D.'s deserves 
credit.  However, don't believe everything you read.  A few years back I 
was at a tool show and stumbled across Ms. Makita, who was handing out 
autographed posters and such.  Being the model husband that I am, I avoided 
her booth until I was forced (by the adjacent Bosch electric drill display) 
to her general area.  Business at her booth was slow, so I struck up a 
casual conversation about the weather, her hometown, etc.  Eventually she 
brought up that she was just doing this job while she studied for her Ph.D. 
in microbiology.  With my stereotype in a shambles, I asked her what her 
master's degree research topic was...(a mistake I agree).  Obviously she 
had no answer, but even worse I had unintentionally called her bluff and 
put her on the spot.  Ph.D. in microbiology?  Yeah....right. I wonder if 
she can spell microbiology.

This is not to say that the rigid tool girls are not all brilliant nuclear 
physicists, nor to say that the calenders need this type of adornment.  My 
point is that the 2 Ph.D. excuse my be a line of garbage.  

By the way, Ms. Makita looked alot better in the poster than in 
person.  The more recent Ms. Makita is much better looking at close range.


-KS
From: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finishing Redwood
Date: 27 Jan 1993 21:46:41 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: surfin


We have a deck made with redwood - It's coated with spar varnish.  This requires
more maintenence, but after 20 years, it still has a beautiful, deep, red color.

chip
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Wiring TS.
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:34:59 GMT

In article <1jkcspINN5oc@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>
>During the setup of my Table Saw(haven't finished yet), I've been watching the
>wiring discussions with some interest, but not much attention to detail.  I
>found the motor to be 1.5 HP and 17.2 amps @ 110V.  Now I don't know much about
>the subject of house wiring, and was wondering if some kind soul could clue me
>in.  I seem to recal that somewhere in normal 110V house wiring there is a 15 amp
>component(fuse or outlet).  This probably means I should rewire for 220V and run
>a line into my garage from the clothes dryer.  Is this reasonable?  Or, am I 
>mistaken and can run the saw from a standard receptacle?  Also note the outlet
>is at the farthest point from the breaker box in my house.
>
>Thanks for all info,
>Keith
>
First of all, the 1.5 hp would equate to about 10 amps at 110 volts,
so the situation isn't quite as bad as you think. Second, the size of
the fuse or circuit breaker is (or should be) related to the size of
the wiring from the main bus to the device - that is, don't change a
15 amp fuse to something larger.

Now, if the saw came with a standard plug for a 110 volt receptacle,
and the branch circuit isn't loaded with toasters, irons, or the like,
you can safely plug in your TS. The reason for moving to 220v is that
it cuts the current in half, so your wiring from panel box to outlet
can be longer, there is less voltage drop in the wiring, and the motor
will run better under heavy load. You're also less likely to trip a
circuit breaker or blow a fuse under some kind of surge-like load (a
knot or something).

If you want to hook up to 220v, the best way is to run a separate
branch circuit just for the saw. If you have enough blanks in the
panel, it's simple enough but should be done by someone who knows what
they're doing. With fuses it's a little more trouble as you probably
have to add a separate fuse box. You can indeed hook an outlet for
220v from the dryer circuit, although this would be frowned upon by
most inspectors. You certainly wouldn't want the dryer turned on while
the saw was running, but if you multiplex the operations it will work.

What I'd do is try running off 110v and see if your saw operates
smoothly without loading (slowing down) for the kinds of wood you will
be cutting. If so, stay with it.
-- 
Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
is posted in many store windows.
Standard Disclaimer, of course.
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I start with $500?
Date: 24 Jan 1993 05:36:58 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, echi@cisco.com (Eric P. Chi) says:

>Hi,
>	I plan to setup some equipments to build some bookshelf kind thing
>for my study room and garage. I am wondering whether I should buy a table
>saw or radial saw? Or do I really need those fancy equipments? I already
>own a circular saw but I can hardly cut a straight line with it.

Hmmmm.... The answer would depend on if you plan on building more
projects in the future or if this is a one time deal. I've used circular
saws that would not cut straight. Sometimes it was the blade, sometimes
it was the saw itself. Try a new blade first. If your saw can't cut
straight, it ain't much good. Then again, some skill is involved in
making a straight, true cut.Practice makes perfect, or something like
that.
Book shelves or book cases are something that you can build quite nicely
without using a T-saw or RAS. A good router would make cutting dadoes
and rabbets for these shelves and/or cases a lot easier.You would have
enough money left over for clamps and other necessary starter tools.

Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: RONDOT@IPFWVM.BITNET (Lawrence E. Rondot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Project survey
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:42:16 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

Just to add another item to the list

I am frantically trying to finish a cradle for my first daughter.  According to
the doctors I seem to have about 3 weeks to finish it.  According to my wife,
I might be lucky if I have the rest of the week to finish the construction.

I know that it will have to sit for a week or two after the finish is applied
but I can at least look at it.

Along the way I have had to make several tools - gismo that has a ruler on it
that looks like a pair of capitol "L" back to back.  I think the basic plans
were in Woodsmith a couple of months back.  It is used to set up the depth of
cut for a router or table saw.  The other thing I am finishing is a set of
5 marking gages.  I figured that if I had to set the machines up to make one,
I could knock out a few extra.  So I made one each from walnut, cherry,
mahogany, white oak, and maple.  I figured I can set them all up different
and grab for the right one based on what color it is.

Past projects include Norm's China cabinet/hutch from his first book from
maple, a sofa table from my own design in maple (finished that for Christmas).

Future projects include dining room table/chairs from walnut, dresser from
oak, and (someday) a canopy bed from cherry.

Lots of stuff to do, no tools to do it with, but when ever some one says you
can't do it that way.... I generally try to do it some other way without
spending a fortune.

Larry Rondot                               RONDOT@IPFWVM
IBM Systems Programmer & BITNET Techrep    RONDOT@SMTPLINK.IPFW.INDIANA.EDU
Indiana - Purdue University at Fort Wayne  AT&T:   (219) 481-6203
2101 Coliseum Blvd East                    Other:  Scream this-a-way
Fort Wayne Indiana    46805-1499  USA      =* Standard Disclaimers *=
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mvrjl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.j.lansing)
Subject: wood filler
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 13:01:34 GMT

I'm looking for a decent wood filler to repair some chips
in a piece of furniture (wood species - fir).  In the
past I've tried various wood fillers - plastic wood,
Elmers wood filler, etc - they don't work very well.
Any recommendations?

-Bob Lansing
mvrjl@mvgpf.att.com
From: siewert@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (Karl Siewert)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: wood CARVING
Date: 25 Jan 1993 00:48:49 -0600
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: matt.ksu.ksu.edu

Hi, folx.  I'm a beginning whittler and woodcarver looking for some tips on 
making a mask out of redwood.  I've been lurking for awhile and haven't seen
anything but furniture and carpentry.  Fascinating, but not what I'm looking
for.  Are there infrequent whittling-type posts here and I just missed them, 
or not?  My news server sez we're only connected to one newsgroup containing 
the string "wood."  Any helps to address in my .sig, including questions about 
the project!

TIA

Rie.


-- 
/               James Riekar, barhopping yoyist, at your service              \
Impersonated at Fort Hays State by Karl G. Siewert, pretending to be at K-State
\                      address=siewert@matt.ksu.ksu.edu                       /
 \           Never underestimate the power of the truly eccentric.           /
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mad@cs.wm.edu (Michael A. Dritschel)
Subject: looms
Organization: College of William & Mary, founded 1693
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:34:56 GMT

I am interested in building either a counter-marche or counter-balance
loom.  My preference would be to design it myself, but it would be
nice to study other's plans before starting in order to understand
various design advantages and drawbacks.  Can anyone recommend plans
for such a project or books on loom construction?  Thanks!
-- 
Michael A. Dritschel          mad@cs.wm.edu

Department of Mathematics
The College of William and Mary
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: JOHNSON@zeus.ahabs.wisc.edu (Scott C. Johnson)
Subject: Plans for futon frames?
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Madison
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 93 22:33:32 GMT

If anyone has plans or knows where I could get plans for a L-style futon, I
would appreciate it if they would either post it or drop me a letter
containing this information.

Scott C. Johnson
University of Wisconsin - Madison
JOHNSON@zeus.ahabs.wisc.edu
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:53:27 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: 3 phase question
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino