HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: daris_b1@verifone.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] '71 Super Bug shimmies.
Date: 7 Jan 93 05:26:08 -1000
Organization: VeriFone Inc., Honolulu HI

In article <1993Jan02.002058.13351@microsoft.com>, laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday) writes:
 
> Tim from New Mexico asks about his shimmying Super Beetle...
 
I had the same problem with my 71 Super Beetle, my car shimmied from 55 to 
60.  I checked or replaced everything without success (including replacing
the tires and having them balanced).  I finally had to give up.  In the end, 
I solved MY problem by accident.  

I installed a set of American Eagle Riveria wheels with new rubber and
my shimmy stopped and never returned.

My conclusion, what might be minor balance problems with wheels on other
cars is much worse on the Super Beetle.  Personally, I've never owned a
car yet that I didn't clip a curb on the way into a driveway or roll off
one on the way out.  Let's face it, VW wasn't exactly know for using the
best/strongest materials on the Bug.

Hope this helps,
   Daris Bouthillier, VeriFone Inc., Costa Mesa, CA.
From: william@castle.ed.ac.uk (William Warburton)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [A]: Bus heaters (again).
Date: 12 Jan 93 11:41:19 GMT
Reply-To: W.Warburton@ed.ac.uk
Organization: Edinburgh University Computing Service

Hi,
	When it gets cold (say, below 0 Centigrade) the airflow through
the heat system in my '71 camper seems to disappear. It's not that it
blows cold air, it doesn't seem to blow at all!
 My only guess is that the thermostat thingy that lets the engine heat
up quickly is staying shut off but that seems unlikely.

 Is this normal? Is there anything I can do about it?

 Thanks,
	W.

 PS. How big a difference do snow chains make on a type II? I had a
    pretty "interesting" drive on Monday without them (120 Miles on
    a couple of inches of snow), is it worth buying chains to use a
    couple of times a year?

+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eric@mis.Tandem.com (Eric Prior)
Subject: For Sale - 1989 VW Jetta GLI
Reply-To: eric@mis.Tandem.com (Eric Prior)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:52:29 GMT

1989 Volkswagen Jetta GLI 16V    $10,900

I am the original owner and have all service paperwork. This car has only
36K original miles and is in excellent condition. The color is black with
alloy wheels and gray velour Recaro sport seats. I bought a new VW Corrado
so I'm looking to sell the Jetta. Below is a partial list of features.

Sunroof
Air Conditioning
Pioneer AM/FM Cassette Pull-out Stereo
Floormats, Front and Rear
Car Cover

The car is located in Campbell, CA.
If interested, call Eric Prior at (408) 285-1936.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eric@quantum.qnx.com (Eric Johnson)
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting 
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 07:17:33 GMT
Organization: Quantum Software Systems, Ltd.

<other articles deleted for brevity>

I always downshift in sequence from whatever gear I'm in through all
the gears down to 1st gear. Why?  Because I'm a relative beginner
driver (only 12 years experience) and I want my heel and toeing to
be dead smooth. It takes a lot of practice to be smooth on the heel
whilst doing the double-clutch dance and letting the enginer braking
come in and out of play. My own experience is that it has taken me a
few years just to get moderately proficient at it, and when
I stop driving a any significant period I get noticeably rusty at it.
Using engine braking and the brakes at the same time is a daily
exercise to keep my driving skills at a reasonable level. (I presume
I don't need to go into the manifold benefits of heel and toeing.)

If driving fast isn't ones kettle of fish, I would still argue that
routinely downshifting while braking could some day save your
life if for some reason you have a partial brake failure or happen
to get into a situation where you have to make a few very hard stops
in a short period of time. The fraction of a second it takes to
go off the brake, shift, and go back on the brake could kill you.
Is anyone so confident in their ability that they don't think they
need the practice? Of course, maybe I'm just a lot slower and less
coordinated than average and need the practice, in which case,
please disregard this line of reasoning.

I do agree however that it is harder on the engine (and transmission -
you can end up doing twice as many shifts as you would if you just
used the brakes).

-- 
Eric Johnson (eric@quantum.qnx.com or try eric@quantum.on.ca)
Technical Development, Quantum Software Systems Ltd (QNX OS)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: decelerating by downshifting 
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:18:45 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.160837.25859@wuecl.wustl.edu> anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (I) writes:
>Personally, I'd much rather do a brake job than replace the transmission, or
>clutch, or even overhaul the engine.  Brakes are the cheapest components to
>replace, so use them.
>
>Albrecht
Woops, I wanted to add...  This doesn't hold for long steep hills, where the
brakes are liable to overheat (and brake failure could have nasty consequences)
In that case, I will shift down a gear to keep from going too fast.

Albrecht

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Peltier was a cool dude!!
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Looking for Ghia
Date: 12 Jan 93 19:21:28 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

I'm interested in finding an inexpensive Ghia convertible.  I'm
mechanically inclined but have been spoiled by Hondas.  It doesn't
have to look too good initially but should be a runner and able to
be registered in Maryland.  I'm interested in decent performance and
not too concerned about originality; modifications OK.  I need to be
able to commute in this car.

What years should I look for?  Any major changes?

Any particular things to look out for?  Rust/problem areas?

What is the minimum I should expect to spend for a functional car?

Any leads for finding a car in the DC area?

Thanks,

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: peter.hertler@rose.com (peter hertler)
Subject: Re:Altenator light
Organization: Rose Media Inc, Toronto, Ontario.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:32:50 GMT
X-Gated-By: Usenet <==> RoseMail Gateway (v1.70)


Date Entered: 01-12-93 15:59
=>I have a 88 Golf that recently (well, a year or so ago I guess, it 
=>has just
=>recently become annoying) started having a problem in heavy rain.The
=>alternator indicator LED comes on (not bright, usually quite dim in 
=>fact).Then, after maybe a minute or so, it goes off, and you can 
=>hear the =>squeal of
=>a belt just as it goes out.
=>
=>Ideas? I suspect that some sort of guard may have fallen out or come 
=>loose,
=>allowing water from the road to splash up inside under the hood. Of 
=>course,
=>if it is completely missing, I may not know it isn't there. Has 
=>anyone seen
=>this type of problem before?
=>
=>- CHRIS
=>

Tighten your Fan belt, most likely its loose.

Regards

Peter Hertler
---
   RoseReader 1.70 R002637
   RoseMail 2.00 : RoseNet<=>Usenet Gateway : Rose Media 416-733-2285
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Thursday, 7 Jan 1993 15:19:14 EST
From: Nicholas C. Hester <IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Changing the brake fluid....?

Well, I had my 30k mile checkup the other day.  I talked with the
service manager about changing the brake fluid as the book said, but
he said that it was a waste of time and could cause problems ie air
in the lines.  He said that he'd do it but he'd never performed it
on Saabs (their other line of cars) and it was ok.  I relented and
didn't have him do it.

Ok, does it really make that much of a difference if I don't have it
changed?  What does the group think?

Thanx in advance!

___

  Nicholas  Hester
ia80024@Maine.bitnet
ia80024@Maine.maine.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: iainw@bnr.ca (Iain Woolf)
Subject: Alternator not working (VW Polo), please advise...
Organization: BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:51:59 GMT

The alternator on my 1978 VW Polo is no longer working! The car,
although about 15 years old, has only done 56,000 (genuine) miles.
Apparently a common fault with old VWs is that oil occasionally leaks
onto the alternator (looks like it has on mine) - is this to blame?

I would like informed advice from people as to whether it is worth me
taking it to bits, cleaning it up and fitting some new brushes or just
to admit premature defeat and take it in for an exchange alternator.

If you are not familiar with this car, it is the VW smaller than the
Golf (is this what you call a Rabbit in the States/Canada?)

Thanks in advance,

       Iain.

PS. This has also been posted to rec.autos.tech

-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Iain Woolf, BNR Ltd., Maidenhead, UK | My opinions are just that - MINE!
 (0628) 794537           esn 590-4537 | iainw@bnr.ca
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Nicholas Robert Haas)
Subject: [W] My New Jetta GTL and its Motor Mount/Exhaust Manifold
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:54:00 GMT

After nuking my perfect 178k 85 GTI I found a 85 Jetta GLI that was 
garage kept with one owner.. Beautiful shape.. Mars Red.. Got it for
a meager $2500...   I couldnt be happier...

I have a few questions though...   There is a definate exhaust leak coming
from the manifold area..   My GTI once had a cracked manifold and I had VW
fix it for me ($400 

Stupid.. I should have done it myself..  Anyway, what is involved in a fix
like that? Is it usually a problem with the Rubber ring at the bottom
of the manifold where it hits the rest of the exhaust??

Also, the front motor mount is broken I think.. The GTI had a broken rear
mount that I had fixed for $80.. When I was in reverse the GTI motor would
lift up.. The new Jetta does it when I accellerate forward..  How difficult
is it to put a new one in myself.. I think the part is $40 new..

Any help is Greatly appreciated!!


-- 
---===>>> Nick <<<===---
haasnr@ucunix.san.uc.edu
------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: philg@bozo.net.com (Phil Geller)
Subject: Re: Put pop top on regular bus?
Organization: Network Equipment Technologies
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 20:39:09 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.173251.14051@nntp.nta.no> BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski) writes:
>Is it possible to put a pop top on a regular bus, or are the camper models
>specially reinforced or something?
>
>Jim Baranski


It's done.  Country Home Campers in Scotts Valley, CA does conversions
for about $7500.  I'm sure there are others out there willing to take 
your money.  As far as I know, they don't reinforce any components.
They claim to use lightweight equipment.
-- 
Phil Geller				Email: philg@net.com
Network Equipment Technologies 		Phone: (415) 780-4363
800 Saginaw Drive 			Fax:   (415) 780-5001
Redwood City, CA 94063 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dgs@sfi.santafe.edu (David G. Simmons)
Subject: 64 Bus 4 Sale
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 20:15:52 GMT
Organization: Santa Fe Institute
Distribution: us

Here's the deal....

I have a 1964 VW Bus for sale.
plusses:
	New Clutch
	New Brake System (Master and ALL wheel cylinders)
	New Oil Cooler
	Extra Short-block engine
	New seals on windshield
Minuses:
	It's in New Mexico
	#2 Spark plug is stripped

This is a GOOD bus.  Very little rust (I've started some of the
body work, and there isn't all that much!).  Everything works.
(Well, the emergency flasher box fried a few weeks ago, but it
worked fine).

I'd *like* to get $700 for it.  You, of course, have to come get
it (but the skiing's good, so you might justify it that way ;-))

email only, please, as I can't keep up with the volume here.

-David
dgs@sfi.santafe.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pzl@remulak.unx.dec.com (Pete Lega)
Subject: jetta speedo shakes/cost of 30K serv.
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 00:42:45 GMT


	My 91 jetta has had a recurring problem with a shaky speedo.

	At 23K 28K and now 39K, the speedo needle shakes when cold
	from 0-30mph. The first 2 times, the dealer replaced the cable.
	Now, along with the shake, is a rattle (marble rattling) sound
	in the general vicinity behind the instrument cluster.

	Before I go deal with the dealer, has anyone encountered and
	fixed this in their car? I'm fairly certain that it 
	isn't just the speedo cable, but want to have some suggestions
	before going in.

	Also, whats the going rate for 30K service? My dealer wanted
	$330!.

	Pete




--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Pete Lega, Digital Equipment. Manalapan NJ.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: FAQ? How to buy a Used VW
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:19:55 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.180801.10993@newsgate.sps.mot.com>, wolfson@regatta.sps.mot.com (Stephen Wolfson) writes:
>If there is an FAQ I'd appreciate it.  If not I'm looking for explanations
>on how to buy an older VW bug, squareback, or bus.  What should I look
>for, and are there any models that are easier to restore or have
>better long term value than others.
>
>	Thanks,
>	Steve
If you want a good guide to buying a VW, get a copy of the Idiot
book, I believe one of the first chapters is entitled "Buying
a Bug (VW)". As far as a model to restore the easiest is
a bug, probably 1970 & up, better long term value, Karman
Ghias, Convertables, 21 window busses with sun roofs...and
if you have mega bucks...Hebmuellers.

Ric


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Subject: VW Frames/Floor Pans compatible with 72 Standard Bug
Organization: Lanman Hill, Norwich CT
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 17:32:24 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

What Frames and/or Floor Pans are compatible with a 72 Standard Bug?

What years ranges?  Are SuperBeetle Frames compatible?

James Baranski            | It's Not Easy Keeping Vaxen Working ...  Underwater!
Vax Systems Analyst       | BARANSKI@VEAMF1.NUSC.NAVY.MIL 203-440-6510, 889-4968
Lanman Hill, Norwich CT   | Be: Thoughtfull, Honest, Yourself, Happy

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: More Vanagon Tires
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 23:00:14 GMT

In article <jgladu-040193111952@128.249.27.63> jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu)) writes:
>I'm still looking for those reinforced sidewall tires...
>
>Can someone please send me the phone number and/or address for Michelin,
>Continental and Pirelli?  I'd like to here their highly-biased side to all
>of this...
>
Sears sells the Michelin light truck tires in size 195/75-14 under their
own brand name for about $75 each (last time I bought them, which was 2
years ago).  They are also rated M+S, though I find the snow traction to
be lacking.  They have held up very well for me.  

	- Dan		eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: don@vestek.com (Don Labutay)
Subject: Petronix/Perlux ignitor
Organization: Vestek Systems, San Francisco
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 21:40:56 GMT

Anyone out there in California, using the Pertronix (was Perlux)
ignitor.  I was wondering if this is smog legal.  If you don't
what this is, it's a magnetic device that replaces the points/condenser
in the distributor.

don@vestek.com

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Subject: Re: [A] '71 Super has CO trouble
Organization: Lanman Hill, Norwich CT
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 15:55:26 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

In <1993Jan4.182324.5034@zia.aoc.nrao.edu> troberts@zia.aoc.nrao.edu writes:

 Hey, Folks!
 	I have the joy of breathing Carbon Monoxide everytime I drive
 my '71 Super Bug.  My heater boxes are brand new.

Virtually everyone that I talk to says that having exhaust fumes sucked into
the heater is a problem with the heater boxes.  However, this does not always
make sense to me...

The fan box blows air from the engine compartment down into the heater boxes
and into the heater vents of the car.  It pressurizes the heater boxes to some
extent.  Stray exhaust fumes are not going to get sucked into the pressurized
heater boxes, but fumes from the high pressure exhaust tube inside the heater
box can force their way into the heater air.

My problem with fumes was that the hood for the hot air from the oil cooler
that directs the hot air down and out of the engine compartment was missing,
and so I was getting fumes sucked into the *fan box* and into the heater air.

Jim Baranski
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vdub bugs
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 11 Jan 1993 19:05:22 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

In article <Xi85wB1w164w@ham.almanac.bc.ca>, emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca wrote:

> Even then, they wouldn't float forever, in spite of what the ads said.

While I can't remember all of the exact wording of the ads, the part that
mattered was ...the VW Beetle "will definitely float, but it won't float
indefinitely".  VW never claimed that they would float forever...

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu)
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Needs new fuel pump?
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:42:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.103903.1@cc.uvcc.edu>, coldje@cc.uvcc.edu writes:
|> I'm thinking about buying a 66 VW bug.  It's cheap.  One problem
|> though, there seems to be gas in the oil.  The current owner is
|> clue-less and wants it out of his garage fast.  Am I off the
|> mark by thinking that the fuel pump needs to be replaced and is
|> leaking gas into the cankcase?

The question is, how much oil is in the crankcase?  If it is just
the smell of gas and the oil is still fairly viscous, then you may
be looking and an over-rich mixture with condensation into the
oil.  I have seen this on the air-cooled cars I owned.  Simply change
the oil soon and get the mixture adjusted.

However, if there is lots of gas in the oil and it is very thin, then
the likely culprit is the fuel pump.  I saw one car where the fuel
pump leaked so bad that the oil level rose to the point where it
was pumping diluted oil up the breather tube into the oil bath
air cleaner.  It was sort of self saving in that it caused the oil
bath to overflow and drown out the engine!

Mark
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: I have leaky spark plugs!
Date: 10 Jan 93 16:36:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: umassd.C0nCt2.KF6
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

In article <1993Jan10.150547.28292@aio.jsc.nasa.gov>, poirot@mickey.jsc.nasa.gov (Daniel Poirot) writes:
>
>Howdy from Houston!
>
>I have a 84' Audi 5000S with a NEW problem.  (~100K mi. 125-140 psi on all 5!)
>
>I was replacing a blown radiator hose yesterday.  I had the new hose on
>and was very sloppy filling the overflow tank.  I ended up with water
>all over the engine.
>
>I started the car, just to see it work again, and saw BUBBLES coming
>out from around the spark plugs.  I replaced the plugs last month and
>though I had the plugs tight enough.  I can't find a torque value in
>the stinking Bently manual!

At the risk of sounding "trite" but was it bubbles as a result of
air escaping or bubbles as in water boiling? The water will tend to
boil at or near the plug because the plug is sitting directly on
top of the combustion chamber.

If you are getting air escaping, you should be able to hear it
while the motor is running by taking a length of plastic tubing,
putting one end next to your ear, and the other next to the plug.

If you get a hissing noise, I would suggest the problem lies in
the following areas:

1. Defective Spark Plug. Tightening by hand should be sufficient
enough to compress the gasket on the bottom of the plug. If, you
go out, and tighten the plugs, after they have been installed
for a few days, and can actually turn the plug more than 90 degrees,
then you did not properly tighten the plug. Bosch recommends
18 to 22 foot pounds for torque for plugs.

If you can't tighten the plug any more, then perhaps you have defective
plugs.

2. Cracked head near the plug. Perhaps there is a machining or casting
flaw near the plug hole or even a crack in the head. If the plug is
in fact loose as a result of a casting flaw, etc., then your plug(s)
probably would have worked their way loose by now, and possibly 
"ejected" themselves from the head.


Ric

>
>Do I risk stripping the head or do I trash the plugs and try again?
>
>-- 
>Daniel Poirot           poirot@aio.jsc.nasa.gov
>NASA JSC                "The mind is a terrible thing."
>ER3                     tel: (713)483-8793
>Houston, TX 77058       fax: (713)483-3204
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche)
Subject: Re: [W] OXS Removal - an answer!
Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 02:53:59 GMT

In <C0p96E.2G@srgenprp.sr.hp.com> wtjones@sr.hp.com () writes:

>Rajiv K Agrawala (rkast2+@pitt.edu) wrote:

>STUFF OUT

>: Then he explained to me the secret of how he got it off. The sensor
>: area needs to be heated, either by running and/or torch. Then, you
>: spray lots of penetrating oil into the slight crack, where it gets
>: sucked in by the pressure drop and by the cooling. This gets the
>: lubricant to the threads. (I remember hearing that drilling holes just
>: to the threads is a good idea). Keep doing this repeatedly and keep
>: applying the wrench. Sooner or later (took them 1 hr) it'll come off.

>My '85 Jetta has 177+K miles on it and I finally got around to 
>changing the OX sensor.  I used a 8" crecent wrench and took about 
>2 or 3 minutes to get it out.  :-}   

Shouldn't you have used a metric "wrench" instead of the 8"? 
:-)

-- 
+-----+ Bernd Felsche                     _-,_|\  #include <std/disclaimer.h>
| | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd          /  |   \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au
| | | | 328 Albany Highway,              X_.'-._/         Fax: +61 9 472 3337
|m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100  v        Phone: +61 9 362 9355
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS)
Subject: Mexico
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 6 Jan 93 01:25:03 GMT

	Living only a day's drive from Mexico, I've been thinking
of driving down to Guatemala this spring. My question is, "What should
I do to my car before I leave?" (Besides extra oil, gas, and fuel filter)
	Also, does Mexico have any restrictions on cars? (Serious question)
Has anybody out there ever done this?

Garrett
From: BARANSKI@veamf1.nusc.navy.mil (Jim Baranski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:21:15 GMT
Organization: Lanman Hill, Norwich CT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

In <1993Jan7.165350.22320@newsgate.sps.mot.com> mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com writes:

 ... polish, port, line bore, deck, etc...

What exactly do all these buzzwords mean?

Can someone put the definitions in the FAQ?

Jim Baranski
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw