HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: powell@wraith.netops.contel.com (Mike Powell "GTE FSD Net Mgr")
Subject: need belt sander recomendation
Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division (Telecom)
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 22:25:25 GMT

I am faced with having to sand several boards, that are bonded together,
flat on one side.
Not wanting to enjoy this task too much by hand sanding, it looks like
a belt sander is my best option. Only one problem, I don't have one. 

Next issue, intended duty: medium to heavy. say a belt 3 or 4 inches
wide.
What to buy? at last check Makita and Porter Cable were playing leap
frog with thier respective products.
I am not to keen on buying Sears Power tools anymore, sooooo, the answer
is ??????
Suggestions are welcome.
Mike
--
Mike Powell PPASEL
"It's hard to find router bits for your cisco"
Disclaimer: I speak for myself. No direct relation to the DUAT folks.
internet: powell@wraith.netops.contel.com  Usenet: uunet!contel-fss!powell
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bdr@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (brian.d.reed)
Subject: Re: Advice about workshop tools
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 12:30:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.121225.8765@icd.ab.com> korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg) writes:
>
>Will the table saw "behave" or work differently when its cold
>(eg 38 degrees F) than warm (90 degrees F) ?

I'm not sure about the saw, but I believe you would!

Seriously, I wouldn't want to operate dangerous machinery with
my senses and muscles dulled.

 Brian D. Reed    bdr@cbnewsg.cb.att.com   

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Painted wood sticking together
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix, An Intergraph Company
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 17:37:03 GMT

I am planning to paint a project that I am nearly finised with, but I'm
worried about pieces sticking together.  In earlier projects that I
have painted, pieces tend to stick together weeks after having painted
them.  It seems that the paint hasn't fully cured for quite some time
(months perhaps).  I have been using latex based paint.  Is there a
paint that will cure quicker thus preventing my pieces from sticking
together after final assembly?  I have several wood hinges that will
need to pivot freely, there will be painted wood rubbing painted wood
on a screw pivot.

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Dazix, An Intergraph Company	uunet!ingr!b23b!naomi!lester
Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537

There are three kinds of people in the world:
Those who can count, and those who can't.
From: jeff@hilbert.cyprs.rain.com (Jeffrey S. Freedman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:58:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: hilbert.1992Sep2.165809.29163
Organization: Cypress Semiconductor Northwest, Beaverton Oregon

In article <Btx0xq.ADo@news.orst.edu> holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt) writes:

>thinking and I wonder how many other "molding nerds" there are out
>there.  

Well, I used a Stanley #55 to hand-plane about 200 ft. of birch moulding for
my youngest daughter's room.  Does that qualify me?

-- Jeff Freedman
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: baud@kepler.eedsp.gatech.edu (Kurt Baudendistel)
Subject: Re: Danish Oil -- good enough for outdoors?
Organization: Georgia Inst. of Tech - DSP - Atlanta, Ga
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 20:27:54 GMT

I love these finishes, but they allow water to penetrate and discolor the 
wood---they aren't a good top coat for outdoors or for surfaces that will
get wet.
-- 
Kurt Baudendistel ---                                           --- GRA
Georgia Tech, School of Electrical Engineering, Atlanta, GA  30332-0250
internet: baud@eedsp.gatech.edu              uucp: gatech!gt-eedsp!baud
Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:5787 rec.autos.tech:11699
X-Vmsmail-To: SMTP%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@Kodak.COM"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 25 Aug 1992 12:55:21 -0400
Reply-To:     MITTELSTAEDT@pooh.kodak.com
From:         MITTELSTAEDT@POOH.KODAK.COM
Subject:      Re: Air Compressor Wisdom

Regarding Air Compressor Inspection-

Campbell Hausfeld manufactured many of the older Sears compressors.  This
bit of info from a service technician who recently repaired my Campbell
Hausfeld unit for a broken leaf valve.  You can either contact, C.H. for
an authorized service center or post your city and I can look up the
compressor documentation for the list of service centers.

B. Mittelstaedt
Eastman Kodak
Rochester, NY
From: garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Patience
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:27:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.23548
Reply-To: garry@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T, Bell Labs

In article <daniel.27@osefs1.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com> daniel@osefs1.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com (DANIEL Sedergren) writes:

	"Well, when I build something, I try to get my satisfaction out of each step 
	in the project.  If I'm jointing an edge, I start by taking pleasure in 
	sharpening the plane iron and setting the plane, then in the sound and feel 
	of the plane as I remove the material.  I go slow, trying and testing the 
	edge until the fit is just right.  I find that my satisfaction lasts longer 
	when I take it from what I'm doing instead of from what I've done, or what  
	I'm going to do next."

Nicely put, Daniel.  We do, indeed, do this for pleasure.

Thanks for reminding us.

-- 
Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
att!alice!garry			Float like a feather
From: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: CAREFUL WITH THAT PROPELLER!!!!
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:19:05 GMT
Reply-To: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Organization: Moscom Corp., Pittsford, NY

In article <KEVIN.92Aug26113658@bremerer.cs.adelaide.edu.au> kevin@cs.adelaide.edu.au (Kevin Maciunas) writes:
>In article <1992Aug24.141400.28206@evolving.com> mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier) writes:
    
>>    About about his 3.5 inch panel raising bit for his router.
> numerous warnings


Okay, so a 3.5 inch panel raising bit is dangerous.  What are the alternatives?

I have a new kitchen I want to redo, and thought about the 3.5 in bit
myself.  It give a nicer profile than a table saw.
-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: glued-up panels or solid panels???
Keywords: panles,
Date: 26 Aug 92 04:04:22 GMT
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology

Greetings,

I have been recently working on a couple of quilt racks for my wife (I think they
are kind of silly, but she likes them :)), and the vertical 'sides' of the thing are
about nine inches wide.  Now the plans I have call for gluing up three 3 1/4" (or
so) wide boards to form the nine inch panel.  I usually like to follow plans
explicitly the first time, then experiment with later trials (I'm still kind of
new).  So what I found myself doing was ripping wide boards into narrow ones, just
so I could glue them up into wide boards again.

So I was wondering if this really makes sense.  Is a glued up panel or board more
stable than a solid one of the same width?  If you had a choice of using a solid
board for something in the 8-12" range would you use it or would it better to
glue-up a panel anyway?

Thanks for your help!

ak
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Wood for drain board?
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 17:23:46 GMT

I would like to make a wooden dish drainer.  Does anyone have
suggestion about:

What wood to use?

What finish to use?

Glue-up?  Dowels?  Biscuits?

I have available table saw, thickness planer, jointer, router, etc. so
I can do just about anything anyone suggests.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: john@jbean.b29.ingr.com (John Bean)
Subject: Re:      Re: Collect'm, Trade'm
Reply-To: b29!jbean!john@ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 20:44:00 GMT

In article <01GOCFN3NR5U8Y53EA@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM>,         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
|> Got a set of craftsman trading cards; but, no bubbble gum included. Trashed
|> cards.
|> 
|> Did any one get bubble gum?
|> 
|>                                 Ron

I didn't get any either. But I wasn't too disappointed-what flavor
would "Working Man's" gum be, anyways ? Sawdust ? Machine oil ?

John "I've got the Worm-drive rookie card" Bean

======================================================================
= John Bean							     =
= Intergraph Corp, Huntsville AL	john@jbean.b29.ingr.com	     =
======================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 15:56:55 GMT

David Erickson writes
> In article <1992Sep2.175834.14893@hubcap.clemson.edu>  
hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes:
> >
> >The folks around here who run the local lumber mill (and their family
> >has run it for 75-100 years) call quarter sawn ``rift sawn''. Maybe that
> >is what you are remembering (rip really = rift).
> 
> Rift sawn and quarter sawn are not the same.  Both are cut from quartered
> logs, but the quarter sawn is cut with the point down, and the rift sawn
> is cut with a flat side down (both assuming that the saw is a vertical
> bandsaw).
> {ascii picture deleted}


Your quarter-sawn diagram produces some sift-sawn boards and your rift-sawn 
picture produces some quarter-sawn boards and some plain-sawn (or flat-sawn) 
boards. I don't think your rift-sawn procedure is actually used in practice.


But, forgetting about how the log is actually sawn, here's how to rate lumber  
you see in a lumber yard: Look at the ends of the board for the growth rings, 
and look at the angle of the rings to the face of the board:

Quarter-sawn: The rings are between 60 and 90 degrees to the face.
Rift-sawn:    The rings are between 30 and 60 degrees to the face.
Plain-sawn:   The rings are between  0 and 30 degrees to the face.


As mentioned, quarter-sawing produces a straight narrow grain pattern, plain-
sawing produces large striking grain. Quarter-sawn boards are less likely to 
warp, and will not change width as much as rift or plain sawn lumber since wood
expands differently in different directions (quarter-sawn will change thickness 
more than rift or plain sawn, however).

For softwood species, quarter sawn lumber is often called vertical grain.

For more information on this, I suggest reading the article on Quarter-Sawing
in FWW #48, reprinted in "FWW on Wood and How to Dry It."

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear these:
safety glasses."


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pls4@pyuxf.uucp (25335-stevens)
Subject: Finish for Trivets (hot pads)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 17:12:31 GMT

Hi, I'm in the throws of teaching my ten year old son a little about
woodworking. We plan to make some wooden trivets (for stting hot pots on)
out of various woods. The first set will be a present for my wife, if that
goes well we may make a bunch for the church bazaar. The trivets will be
routed with parallel grooves (dados) on each side, with the grooves
perdendicular on the two faces so the intersections show through.
I've figured out how to make a jig to route the grooves, etc.
However, I am not sure what I should use to finish the completed trivets.
The finish should be able to stand up reasonably well to the heat from
the bottom of pots, etc.  We will be making the first couple trivets
in pine to refine our techniques then a few in maple and oak.
Any finishing suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Paul Stevens
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: rec.metalworking
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:53:10 GMT
Organization: LLNL

For those of you with dual interests, there's another forum called
trial.rec.metalworking.  Capt. Kirk (Jim Kirkpatrick, jimkirk@corral.uwyo.edu)
has kindly volunteered to upgrade this group to rec.metalworking if enough
folks express interest.  I've already done so.  If any of you would like
to do so also, Jim's address (when not aboard the Enterprise) is given
above.

Gary
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Fine Woodworking mag and rec.ww
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 16:14:37 GMT


I just got the latest issue of Fine Woodworking, and was struck by how many of  
the threads that have recently been discussed on rec.woodworking are covered in  
it:

Tablesawn Dovetails (cover article)
Bookcase plans (a Barrister's bookcase)
Titebond II's water resistance (actually, a whole article on glues)
Possibility of glue-starved joints (sidebar to glue article, including a
	Barry Smith style emperical test with different results than Barry's)
Micro-Adjusters (one for a TS tenoning jig, one for an auxilary fence)
Mini-Review of the Tucker Vice (a nifty but expensive face vise)
A shopbuilt router tenoning jig (that works similarly to PC's Morten Jig)
A page devoted to safety comments related to the previous issue's cover

However, instead of a thread on Yellow Pine, they had a few letters on Douglas  
Fir.

At this rate, the next issue will cover the safe use of panel raising bits and  
tips for buying and using air compressors....
Organisation: European Space Operation Centre (E.S.O.C)
Date: Wednesday, 2 Sep 1992 00:56:55 CET
From: <NCOYNE@ESOC.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject:    Wax or Varnish



We recently bought some old kitchen type cupboards which have been striped of t
here previous finish. The wood is some thing like pine although I no expert.
I would like to finish then in wax after sanding them down a little more.
My question is, should I use wax or varnish. What are the things to be taken in
to account when deciding.
Please help me make the correct and sensible choice.
If all this is unclear then please let me know and I will try again.


Nick Coyne
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: SUM(sort of) about straightening plywood edges.
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:51:20 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

dal@boombox.micro.umn.edu (Dave Larsen) writes:
: 
: >From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
: >
: >If the vibration still occurs, you can try blade stabilizers - such as
: those
: >sold by Sears. They will cut, to some extent, blade induced vibration,
: as 
: >well as reduce blade whine.
: >
: Get GOOD blade stabilizers if you decide to use them. The ones I used
: (they came free with a blade I bought) were made of cast aluminum. They
: actually induced error in my saw cuts. I threw them away.

To keep from having the kerf enlarged, the two faces must be parallel. They
also change the position of the blade, relative to the table insert - you
may need to make a new one.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 14:58:18 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.121742.20078@icd.ab.com> korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg) writes:

>I'n new to woodworking too.  Could you please explain what quarter-sawn stock is?

It's a sawmill technique. They first cut the log into quarters. I can't
do a drawing with ascii stuff, but imagine you're looking at the end of
the log - looks like a circle, right? So the sawmill splits the log with
the first cut, giving you two semi-circles. They then split the two halves.
Now they cant the blade at a 45 degree angle and feed the quarter-logs
through. The general idea is to have the lines formed by the growth rings
run perpendicularly through the wood.

The method is the most wastefull cutting method, but it produces the most
stable wood.

Other sawing methods used are "rolling the log", and "through and through".
In rolling the log, the sawyer takes several cuts from one side of the
log, then rolls it 90 degrees and takes a few cuts from that side. This
process is repeated until all you have left is a 4x4.

In through and through, all cuts are made with the log in the same position.
This method produces the most wood for the money, but the wood has a
tendency to cup.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Statistics": A means of presenting your personal
                    |   prejudices in convincing political disguise.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: BANDSAW INFO REQUIRED
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 19:48:04 GMT

rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat) writes:
: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
: : 
: : : cheapo tools.  I should add for the record, the Delta 14" is US made and
: : : the castings are done in Wisconsin.  Most of Delta's US made tools use
: : : Brazilian castings made using tropical rainforest wood for the coking
: : : process.  If you are like me, you might want to check with the factory
: : : on the origin of the castings on the product you are considering before
: : : unknowingly helping to defoliate the rainforest and unemploy our countrymen.
: : : I better sign off now before I provoke a riot!
: : 
: : Bah! Do you eat meat? Do you drive an automobile? Do you use imported woods
: : in any of your projects? If so - then you are directly, or indirectly, helping
: : defoliate the rainforests and "unemploy" or countrymen.
:  ...etc
: 
: ...and what do you do about the burgeoning industry of farming tropical
: hardwoods in the Ycatan and Quintana Roo?  Shall we put them out of
: business?

I was not saying that it was wrong - only pointing out the absurdity of the
"defoliate" statement.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 12:52:50 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.165809.29163@hilbert.cyprs.rain.com> jeff@hilbert.cyprs.rain.com (Jeffrey S. Freedman) writes:
>In article <Btx0xq.ADo@news.orst.edu> holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt) writes:
>
>>thinking and I wonder how many other "molding nerds" there are out
>>there.  
>
>Well, I used a Stanley #55 to hand-plane about 200 ft. of birch moulding for
>my youngest daughter's room.  Does that qualify me?
>
>-- Jeff Freedman

And I thought I might have been going overboard when I cut all the
baseboard molding, crown molding, and casing for my living room with a
Williams and Hussey molder/planer.  To do it by hand sounds painful at
best. 

Barry
From: JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: reciprocating table saw?
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:24:00 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Original_To:  BITNET%"woodwork@ipfwvm"

How about an affordable table-mounted saw for somebody that likes woodworking,
but only participates occasionally, and has limited space?  I want something
that can cut curves like a bandsaw, but isn't limited to narrow pieces by the
C-shaped frame of the saw.  I would like a saw for cutting wide pieces, like a
tablesaw, that isn't limited to straight cuts.  Is there such a thing as a
reciprocating tablesaw, with no C-shaped frame to obstruct the cutting of wide
pieces like plywood?  If there is such a thing, do they work relatively well?

Thanks,

Joe Meyer
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: reciprocating table saw?
Date: 26 Aug 92 17:57:21 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Labs

In article 92082611385411@IPFWVM.BITNET, JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET writes:
|>How about an affordable table-mounted saw for somebody that likes woodworking,
|>but only participates occasionally, and has limited space?  I want something
|>that can cut curves like a bandsaw, but isn't limited to narrow pieces by the
|>C-shaped frame of the saw.  I would like a saw for cutting wide pieces, like a
|>tablesaw, that isn't limited to straight cuts.  Is there such a thing as a
|>reciprocating tablesaw, with no C-shaped frame to obstruct the cutting of wide
|>pieces like plywood?  If there is such a thing, do they work relatively well?
|>

There are tables for mounting a saber saw with just the blade
sticking up through the table opening. 


---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: tde@cbnews.cb.att.com (thomas.d.esh)
Subject: Re: Plunger Router Recommendations
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 21:13:17 GMT


Some of the responses I received from my post asking for Plunger 
Router Recommendations basically said that Porter Cable was the
only router worth buying.  Is this true?  If so why?  What are the
internal differences?

Is a PC 7539 worth the additional $60-$80 over a Bosch 1613EVS?
The PC 7539 is 3.25 HP vs 2.0 HP for the Bosch, but the PC is 7 lbs
heavier.  How much HP do you really need and how much should weight
affect my decision?

Thanks 
Tom Esh
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Incra or Leigh?
Date: 2 Sep 92 18:03:38 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Dion Hollenbeck writes
>   I "retired" my
> standard Incra Jig to be used as an X-Y positioner on my drill press
> and it works out wonderfully.

This is nit-picky, but I think potential purchasers should be aware that you 
need 2 jigs for X-Y positioning (if you want the Incra repeatability in both 
the X and Y axes, that is). I suppose you could use a single jig with the Incra 
fence and stop, but I imagine the height of the fence would get in the way of 
some drill press operations.

BTW, the "poor man's" X-Y positioner is simply two low, fixed fences at right 
angles to each other, and a series of stop blocks cut from the same ripping. As 
you add or remove blocks you change the distance from the fence by a known 
and repeatable amount (Duginske uses this technique for his tablesawn dovetails 
- see the cover of the most recent FWW). This has the disadvantage that for 
some cases the rippings are narrow, and it takes some time to make them; but it 
also has the advantage that you're not tied to 1/32" increments.
From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Water and Wood: A beginner's question
Date: 3 Sep 92 19:37:35 GMT
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

In article <6127@grus.cs.nps.navy.mil>, erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil 
(David Erickson) writes:

|>            
|> Rift-sawn:
|> 			***
|> 			* | |*
|> 			* | | |*
|> 			* | | | |*
|> 			* | | | | *
|> 			* | | | | |*
|> 			* | | | | | *
|> 			*************

Is this then just a convenience to the sawmill?  Unless I'm missing
something, it produces the exact same lumber as plain slicing.  Right?  
(Picture completing the circle of your diagram and extending the cuts
clear throught the log.)

If so, this conflicts with what local hardwood suppliers call rift cut,
which looks to me to be quartersawn. 

-joel