HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: ***   neuspeed   ***
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 00:07:51 GMT

In article <alau.720952191@unixg.ubc.ca>, alau@unixg.ubc.ca (Alaric Lik Lau) writes:
|> 
|> 
|>                    Hi-Performance Neuspeed Parts 
|> 
|> They give our beloved VW's even better performance!! Springs, sway bars,
|> stress bars, short shifters, performance chips, cams, etc. all specially
|> designed for each and every VW applicaion.
|> 
|> All Neuspeed parts are carried at competitive prices.
|> If interesed, send me an email with the model and year of your VW!
|> Both Canadian and US customers are welcome!
|> 
|> Alaric 
|> alau@unixg.ubc.ca

I thought this net was supposed to be non-commercial?

Mark
From: bugman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Matthew Ethan Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: wheel bearings
Date: 12 Nov 1992 21:32:42 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4


reply to matt. email: bugman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: re: grinding 1-2 shift
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 05:25:00 GMT

In article <milo-051192222916@mielo.dorm.rutgers.edu>, milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo) writes...
>I have a 90 GTi 8V. The tranny grinds on the 1-2 shift eventhough the
>clutch is fully depressed and no matter how slow the shift is done. The
>second gear slot feels like shifting into marbles. It is almost like
>feeling the gears trying to mesh. The clutch is self adjusting so I assume
>the clutch is properly engaging.Also it doesn't occur in any other gear a
>nd occurs wether I shift at 2000rpm of 5500rpm. This problem occurs when
>the car is off and idle usually overnight. It doesn't seem to be temp.
>dependant since it occurs in the winter and summer. Recently my pinion gear
>came loose and chewed up some gears. VW replaced 1st gear and 2nd
>gear+synchro and other assorted clips, etc. The problem still exists so
>this rules out synchro/internal damage. What could be causing it? It has
>been going on for about a year so I really need help!!

What type of gear oil are you using?  Some of the synthetics actually 
lubricate too well for proper synchro operation.  I had this same exact
problem with a gearbox some time ago, but unfortunately I never found the
source of the problem.  I kept drove it for quite a while, babying it as
much as possible, but eventually the gearbox suffered more severe damage
as a result of this.  Looking back on the situation, along with some more
recent experience, I suspect that the gear oil was the culprit.  If you are
running synthetic, I suggest that you try Redline MTL, as it is specifically
formulated for proper operation of the synchro rings.  I have been using it
for a while now and have noticed an improvement over others, including the
highly respected Spectro oils.   It costs $10/qt, but it's worth it in 
my opinion.

If the gear oil is not the problem, I would look into the clutch and/or it's
linkage.  The self-adjusting clutch cables are notorious for causing problems,
especially the early ones used in the 16V Scirocco and early A2 GTI.  It is 
possible that your clutch is not fully disengaging (clutch drag), which could
definitely cause the symptoms you are describing.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory)
Subject: Testing
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
Date:  6 Nov 1992 13:06 MST  

ignore this post
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Michael Beck                    \        Sex is a three-letter word that 
 Michael.Beck@M.CC.UTAH.EDU        \    needs some old fashioned four letter
 MGB5528@CC.UTAH.EDU                 \  words to fully express its meaning.
 University of Utah                    \
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: hjack@well.sf.ca.us (Henry Jackson)
Subject: Re: Info on Bus Campers - Buying Used
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 17:39:02 GMT

In article <BxMoAC.3nG@well.sf.ca.us> roy@well.sf.ca.us (Roy Harvey) writes:
>
>I'm looking into to purchasing a used (or even new) VW Camper Bus.  Any
>comments, reflections, or advice would be much appreciated.  I'd also
>consider refurbishing a older camper bus if someone could point out the
>problem areas.  Thanks much!
>
>Roy Harvey
>roy@well.sf.ca.us
>(415) 903-9120 H


Good timing on this topic.  I'm just now thinking of the same.  I've come to
these two conclusions in my research:

1.  For older and affordable campers, a 1971 1600cc dual port, modified with
W-10 hydraulic lifter cam, dual Webbers, and exhaust.  Suspension upgrades
with front and rear sway bars, and gas shocks.  Also, something that I did
to an old bus that I had, is to swap 14" Mercedes wheels for the stock 5.5"
wheels is a good idea.  Wider track, stiffer sidwall angle provides good
stability.

2. The main attraction of the newer Vanagons is the watercooled engine.
Just having a heater that doesn't smell like the parts dip tank at the local
machine shop is reason enough to get one. Question I have is are there any
aftermarket modifications available for the waterboxer engine to increase
power? Also suspension mods.  I know that the Tire Rack advertizes wheels
that fit Vanagon, but that's all that I've seen on the subject.  Most of the
VW specialty magazines don't address newer Vanagons.

Any help, information out there?

q
d 44
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW **General** FAQ
Date: 6 Nov 92 04:25:06 GMT
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY

dali@stein.u.washington.edu (David A. Lee) writes:

>Can someone please do a FAQ list for AIR-COOLED VW's?  It seems
>we are a minority here now...

>Well, we are a minority, I'm willing to start compiling some data if people would try to help me out, email me problems and, if possible, solutions.  Please don't expect this to occur quickly or occur at all if I get no responses.
-- 
Josh LaGrange                  *                    
Email: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu*                                               Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
My views may not represent the *
views of the Union College     * 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu)
Subject: Re: Performance Mods
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Computer Science Department, University of Rochester
Date: 6 Nov 92 20:22:49


Are you kidding about the splitfire plugs being incredible, or did you
actually get any clear improvement?

BM
From: squiec@rs6417.ecs.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: WANTED - 13x7" Steel Wheels
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:24:39 GMT
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY

In article <BxLxK7.FDn@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>Does anyone out there have a set of 13 inch by 7" wide steel
>wheels they wish to sell? I need them for my Rabbit GTI
>autox car. Alternatively, does anyone know of a good source
>for these wheels?
>
>Thanks,
>Ric Golen
I dunno...............
   Somewhere, sometime I heard of a company in Pa making 14x7's but I've
 never heard of 13x7's. I just don't think they make them. The tires you'd put
 on them would have to be pretty big( ie   >205/60r13). And if they did
 make rims this size, would they be off the correct offset? Especially for
 autocross, you' d want to know this, eh? Check back issues of European Car,
 If they're out there then EC will know about it.
...... OH, YEAH................
 I seem to remember hearing something about putting larger than 7" wide on 
 13" wheels, some kind of interference wuth the brakes or lines or fender wall
 or something. Anybody else got any ideas????????..............
:)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: squiec@vccnw14.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
Subject: 16V conversion
Keywords: Like....tumblers?????
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: rec.autos.vw
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 00:58:14 GMT

   Hey there folks.... I've been trying to get this thing up for a while and
 I keep getting lazy. I need the help of a semi-guru of H2O VW's.
 I have a 83 Cabrio(Rabbit Convertible, but whats the difference?) and I
 want to swap engines for a 16V out of a '87 GTI. I got the engine for almost 
 nothing( with close-ratio gearbox) and the full wiring harness and assorted
 FI pieces. I have a few questions that I'm unclear on:
   1)What should or can I use for exhaust. I was thinking of using a Scirocco
      16V manifold and downpipe and hooking it into my TT 2" exhaust. Are
      the exhaust manifolds for the Scir16V and Golf/Jetta16V the same?
      Cuz I got the one from the GTI...
   2)Will my bunny 5-speed linkage work with the close ratio box??
   3)What engine mounts do I use..the ones from a 16VScirocco???
   4)Exactly how do I hook the KE-Jetronic FI into my rabbit chassis/harness.
     Will I need the transfer pump or not? 
     If you have GOOD info on the connections/hook-ups I need to make then
     either e-mail them direct or e-mail me your address and I'll send a 
     SASE for the info (like printed pages, diagrams, etc.)
   5) I dont have a prob with the reversed inlet action between the two 
      systems, I'm just gonna modify the placement of the battery,Shield
     washer res., and FI airbox. 
   6)How easy is it to change the flanges inthe close ratio (100mm) box
     with the normal(90mm) ones in my bunny, I don't want new axles.
     Will I need any special tools??
  
  I think this about covers it. If anybody has any info on this please send it,
  or post it for everyone's benefit/interest. I KNOW that EC did a piece on
  the exact conversion I want, but they weren't to specific about some of these
  things ( wiring ) and it only made me jealous. :\   
 
 THANKS BOYS GIRLS AND VEEDUBOPHILES.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: javad@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Agha Javad)
Subject: Re: VW service in San Jose, Ca area?
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:13:18 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard 

In article <1992Nov10.205857.12524@netnews.synoptics.com> ericd@synoptics.com writes:
>
>I am looking for a VW dealer for service on my car in the San Jose area. 
>
>I am interested if you have had any good OR bad experiences with any particular 
>dealer in the area.
>
>Thanks
>Eric Davis
>ericd@synoptics.com

Stay away from Carlsen motors in Palo Alto.  They kept my 90 GLI for 2 days
to fix an idling problem under warranty, didn't fix it, put 40 miles on it,
and after I took it away telling them I needed my car, they wanted to charge
me for labor too!  I must admit, they have some real nice Porsches and Audis
there, though.  

The dealer I've gone to has been Stan Antonio in Sunnyvale, and so far, they
have been very helpful with both scheduled maintenance and unscheduled
problems.  Their service department has been good to me. But I don't know
other people's experience, and I'm actually curious too.

Good Luck!

Javad
From: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Tire recommendations for a family '87 Audi 5000s
Date: 6 Nov 1992 01:39:54 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

It sounds like you want Goodyear Eagle GA's. Few tires have such good
all-around performance. Their very quiet ride is a help in the Audi.
The Bridgestone Turanza is a similar tire; perhaps less ultimate dry
cornering but 80k mi warranty and cheaper than above. both USA made.

-TC
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Drivers Seat for 86 GTi??
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 14:12:38 GMT

In article <hersh.721612781@xenon.lcs.mit.edu>, hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh) writes:
>anyone out there have a spare drivers seat for an 86 GTi???
> or at least a spare frame??
>
>Otherwise anyone know a good place to get one?
>The dealer wants $315 for just the frame.  Recycled Inc.
>is trying to find  an entire seat, this would be $250 IF
> they can find one.
>
>I found a rabbit in a junkyard, they didn't tell me what
>they wanted for it, but I don't know if I can use it.
>Certainly the upholstery doesn't match, so if the frame is
>the same I would have to remove it from that seat in order
>to install it on mine.  This is more work than I want to do.
>
>The frame on mine has sheared as well as th welds on the post
>where the seat latch mechanism is have failed.  I am pretty sure
>my present frame is not salvagable.
>
>My goal is to find  parts or a rebuilt seat such that I will
>still match the upholstery in the car, and also still have a
>drivers seat with a height adjustment.
>
>So if anyone can make any helpful suggestions I appreciate it.
>
>	JaH
>
>--
>Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts


I had a similar problem with my 86 GTI, in my case the height adjustment
mechanism died after lots of autoxing and rallying. I bought a Rabbit
GTI seat, stripped off the bottom of the seat, took off the seat cover
from the GTI seat and the Rabbit GTI seat, put the cover from the
GTI seat on the Rabbit GTI bottom part, put the GTI seat back onto
the Rabbit GTI bottom....voila new seat....except the height adjust
mechanism.

The Rabbit GTI seat frames are just about the same as the GTI seat
frames, the only difference I have found is that the arm for the
seat release on the seat back is shorter on the Rabbit than the
GTI.

If you can't find a Rabbit GTI seat, I have a pair you can have for $90.


Ric Golen
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Date: 11 Nov 92 17:50:43 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller) writes:

> blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
> 
> > Well, I have never done, this, but I can say "why"?  I run two 55 Watt
> > Halogen off-road lights, and two 65 Watt Fog lights, my Highbeams, wipers,
> 
> Right now I limit myself to 100w/150w H4s in my main headlights and
> 130w in my fog lamps.  When I add Rallye-2000 cornering lights with
> 130w  bulbs my voltmeter starts reading below 12V.  By the way, there
> are 100w/170w H4 bulbs and 160w H1/H3 bulbs available - you'll need
> 10g direct wiring with relays unless you want to burn up your dashboard.

Ok, I see the need for the larger alternator :), how did you get H4's to fit 
in to the existing headlamps (Golf/Jetta][?), I didnt think they fit.. 
Otherwise, I would have gotten a set myself, as they are cheap enough ($20).  
I thought you needed the European Aero headlamps (say from APS) to do this..


--
Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker
    68' Cougar XR-7, 89' VW Golf, 74' Honda CL360t, Vextrex Unit Lover
Legal for off-road use only, which may never be used on a highway....
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: Re: four-way flasher troubles
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-3249]: invader.navo.navy.mil
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:21:11 GMT

In article <BxKuz5.LGE@acsu.buffalo.edu>, v129qp43@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.) writes:
|> This is rather a dumb question, probably, but, as ever, I
|> am curious to get the net's response to this nuisance.
|> Just recently my four-way flashers stopped working.  When
|> the ignition is off, nothing happens.  With the ignition           
|> switched on, the dash light glows (doesn't flash), the
|> relay remains quiet and the lights stay off.  With ignition
|> and turn signal on, switching on the flasher stops the
|> turn signal action, and the dash indicator light again just
|> glows.  

There are two strong possibilities.  (1) Your switch is bad.  You'll
either have to replace it (I recommend used vs. dealer $) or take
it apart and attempt to repair it, which has worked for me on some
of the other modular dash switches.  (2) Your wiring harness
connector has worked looses off of the back of the switch.  This
actually happened to me, although my blind, roaming hands in the
dash were the actual culprit.  Simply pull the switch out of the
dash and reseat the connector.  BTW, the symptoms you describe
are almost exactly what I experienced when my wiring connector
was loose.

Good luck!

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Euro Lights
Date: 10 Nov 92 03:40:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: zeus.9NOV199221402261
Organization: Texas A&M University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Nov9.034000.9033@u.washington.edu>, calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih) writes...
>     Where can I get a pair of euro style lights for my 86 Scirocco?


Nearly anywhere.  APS(Neuspeed), Autotech, Northern Imports (RPI), New 
Dimensions, and several others carry them.  Basically any place that 
carries a large selection of aftermarket VW accessories sells them.  Prices
range from $269.95 to $299.95, without bulbs.  I recommend the 55/100 H4's
as compared to the 55/60 that usually come with Euro lights.

--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ericd@synoptics.com (Eric Davis)
Subject: 3-4 point belts/harnesses for Golf?
Reply-To: ericd@synoptics.com
Organization: Synoptics Inc. Santa Clara, California.
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:06:00 GMT

I am looking for a mail order source for 3 or 4 point belts/harness for a 
VW Golf. The dealer will not help me...

The single strap (attached to the door) scares me, even though there is data that
proves that this system is safe. The problem I have with them are: A. the door can 
pop open, at which time you are basically flying out of the car. B. I would like to 
have my knees intact after the accident.

Thanks for any help
Eric Davis
ericd@synoptics.com
From: eellis@cats.ucsc.edu (Eric Christopher Ellis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Alloy wheels
Date: 7 Nov 92 01:39:26 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu


I recently acquired a set of 14 inch alloy wheels from a wrecked
Rabbit which I would like to put on my Rabbit convertible.
The wheels have vw/audi symbols on them, but unfortunately I 
think they must have come from an Audi with a 108mm bolt pattern.
Strangely enough, this did not deter the owner of the wrecked 
Rabbit (I have no idea who this is) from putting them on his/her
car.  Somehow, the holes for the lugs were ovaled out, somewhat
crudely, to allow the wheels to fit on 100mm hubs.  The problem
is, this causes unusual stress on the lug bolts, and I'm worried
that they may either break or come loose while I'm driving.

The wheels are very nice (in my opinion) and I would very much
like to keep them.  Also, with the wheels on, the car seems to
drive fine (no shake or shudder), so I think they are fitting
on nicely.  It's just a question of whether I can expect them to
hold up.  One other thing is that the tires on the wheels now
are pretty worn, so it appears as if the previous owner was able
to use them without a problem.

My question is: has anyone out there ever heard of or done this
kind of thing, and if so, what were the results?  I know this
sounds like kind of a dumb thing to do, but I am seriously 
considering it, and I would like to hear the opinions of as
many people as possible to help me make up my mind.

Eric
Organization: Doctoral student, History, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Date: Mon,  9 Nov 1992 16:21:12 -0500 
From: "Daniel U. Holbrook" <dh3q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: brake interchange

Hello - 

I have an opportunity to buy some front brake rotors from an '86 GTI to
replace the ones on my '79 Rabbit.  Will they fit?  Are there any
general rules for this sort of interchange, i.e. any years not
interchangable with others etc.?

Thanks,
Dan
From: tom.neumann@canrem.com (tom neumann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: news flash! 959 sight
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:19:09 GMT
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


Hi All!

A local late night news show was talking about a Porsche 959 that was
up at a Porsche dealer north of Toronto in Newmarket.

Evidently some wealthy german was taking it across Canada or
something when he ran into some problem. He dropped it off at the
dealer (Pfaff in Newmarket, Ontario) and went back to Germany for a
few days.

The car is supposed to be sitting in their showroom for a day or
two... 

(Today's date is Nov 5,1992)

Tom Neumann
---
 ~ DeLuxe} 1.25 #350 ~ Try a Volkswagen
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WE'RE ONLY HERE BECAUSE WE'RE NOT ALL HERE)
Subject: Re: 77 Bus won't idle
Summary: More info  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Distribution: na
Date: 14 Nov 92 03:08:24 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.172926.5170@daffy.cs.wisc.edu>, stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson)              writes...
> Hello all,
> I am the new owner of a 77 poptop.  It drives fine, but refuses to idle,
> either warm or cold.  I have done a minor tuneup (plugs, points, condensor),
> the cap & rotor look good, and as far as I can tell, the coil and plug wires
> seem ok.  When I try to adjust the idle speed by turning the air bypass 
> screw, there is no change in the idle speed.  Please respond by email or
> post if this would be of interest to others.  I am sorry if this is a FAQ,
> I am reasonably new to this newsgroup.
> Thanks in advance.
> Phil

Have you checked for a vaccuum leak? Can you describe what it does
(ie bucking, sputtering, something else)? What kind of carburator do
you have (ie double carb, something else)?
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Analog Brake Light
Date: 10 Nov 1992 23:14:57 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, drew@tcom.stc.co.uk (Scooby Doo) says:

>In article <4467@news.chips.com> deanf@chips.com (Dean Frazier) writes:
>>Has anyone seen or heard of a brake light system that indicates the degree
>>of deceleration of the vehicle?   Maybe a different number of lights, or
>>increasing light intensity, or flashing lights, etc.
>>
>>It sure would be nice to have such a device during rush-hour traffic!
>>
>>If you've heard of anything like this please e-mail me (or post if you
>>think others would be interested...)
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Dean
>
>I havent heard of a analog brake light system, but over here in Britain
>whenever there is a major traffic jam on the motorway (causing braking
>from 70 mph to crawling within a short time) people have developed
>the practice of flashing their hazard warning lights to indicate
>a problem ahead to those drivers behind. I think it works quite well
>(our hazard lights are amber of course). I think maybe flashing 
>brakelights (flashing more rapidly for harsher braking?) would
>probably be a good idea.
>
>Next person please.

why not go with the LED type thing..maybe in all three lights, or just
in the third one(some of these already use LED's, but some other makers
are starting to put LED into all three..but more have them in the 3rd light
space)..at any rate..then just make the next row light up for harder pressure
..seems not to hard to do..though i havent' really thought it out..just
a presure sensor similar to that used on an oil pressure guage and each jump
in pressure will cause a subseguent row to light up..only the hard part would
be telling all of the drivers that this is what "those STUPID" looking lights
are supposed to be telling them....
DREW 
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!