HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: djones@iex.iex.com
Subject: Re: filler materials, striping monocoat
Organization: IEX Corporation Inc.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 22:15:27 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.162352.27383@adp.uucp> kevinc@adp.uucp (Kevin Cherek)
writes:
>
>I'm finishing a Sig Senior (my first plane).  I plan to cover with
>monocoat.  My question is: How does one stripe this stuff?  Do you cover
>with a base color, cut stripes out of some other color and stick them on
>with the iron? 

This is probably the most common way, unless you by a roll of striping tape,
that is! Be careful sticking them on with an iron. If the iron is too hot the
striping will shrink and look a little funny. Try taking off the clear backing
and then floating it on with Windex or similar soaping agent. Then use a
squeegee to work out any bubbles and the extra water/soap. Place in the sun or
warm area to dry before flying. A fellow in our club uses this method and his
planes look incredible! He also says after getting the water/soap out and it
has dried for a while you can hit it with a warm iron if it makes you feel
better. But watch out for the shrink factor!! Another suggestion. To keep the
decorations from peeling off too easily, try not to have any 90 degree corners.
It seems that rounded corners work the best.

 Or do you get some kind of paint, mask off the stripes
>and paint them on?  

This also works. I have read that using RustOleum works very well on Monokote.

Or do you cut the monocoat to fit (i.e. different
>pieces for the stripes, but they only overlap the rest of the covering
>and are not placed on top of a base covering?  The latter seems quite
>ridiculous!

This would be a bunch of work!!

>Also, what kind of filler materials would modelers out there recommend?
>This is strictly for balsa and not for exotic materials like carbon
>fiber or whatever.
>
Depends on the application. Just general filling Model Magic or the like is
great. Some folks use spackling compound. If you need strength than
microballoons mixed in epoxy or polyester resin work great. Also you can try
baking soda and CA.

Doug
-------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)612-2600 ext: 325
                                   |    djones@iex.iex.com
                                   |    uunet!iex!djones
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: waeber@ufps12.unifr.ch (Bernard Waeber SIUF)
Subject: Re: How to dispose of NiCads?
Organization: University of Fribourg - CH
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 08:58:10 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.144013.24001@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com>, bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse) writes:
|> 
|> >|>             300 ohm              Charge
|> >|>                5W             /  Switch 
|> >|> 20-40 + O---/\/\/\----o------o  o------------o-------------------------o
|> >|> VDC                   |                      |                         |
|> >|>                       |      Zap             |                         |
|> >|>                       |      Switch          |                        +|
|> >|>                       |      ___|___         |                    -----------
|> >|>                       o------o     o---------o                       -----
|> >|>                       |                      | +             Shorted   |
|> >|>       6000 micro-     | +                 -------             Cell     |
|> >|>       Farad, 40V  _________               |     |                      |
|> >|>       Capacitor   ---------               |_____| Volt                 |
|> >|>                       |                      |    meter                |
|> >|>                       |                      |                         |
|> >|>       - O-------------o----------------------o-------------------------o
|> >|> 
|> >
|> >Please correct me if i get this wrong, i guess the above circuit requires
|> >to remove the dead cell from the multi-cell pack, right ?
|> >  
|> 
|> Why would you have to remove the cell -- just hook up to the cell of interest and go.


Right, if the circuit is open no current flows to the other cells. Next question
would be, what is the percentage of success of restoring a dead cell, and how long
will it last. ?? If one cell went bad in the first place, wouldn't it be worth by
replacing the cell ??, in which case you may apply my first respons.
On the other hand, when i fly my Schlueter Magic, worth a couple thousand, comes down
because of 20 bucks worth Ni-Cd cells, could realy get me pi.... !!

The battery pack is the cheapest thing in our hobby, in order to radio-control just
about anything, and if it's in air it is crucial for your flying thing to be perfect.

What i'm trying to emphasis is,  PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT AND KEEP HAVING FUN,
i've seen quite a few people quiting, because they tryed to save money in the
wrong place.

-- 
ben
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca ()
Subject: Re: filler materials, striping monocoat
Reply-To: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca ()
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 21:30:13 GMT

For adding trim over covering, try:

- Coverite's Presto press-on covering
- L&M Industries' no-heat trim solvent for monokote
- Black Baron film over monokote (doesn't bubble as much as Monokote and can
  be removed easily. I've only tried BB film over BB film, but I assume this
  will work the same.)

Other than that, if don't want to have two layers of covering, you have
to cut your different colours to shape and attach them to each other by
overlapping them and applying heat, either on a pane of glass before
final application, or in sections during final application. In either
case, be careful not to heat the seams while shrinking the film, or else
a seam could come apart.

Cheers!
Max
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" -Peter
Gabriel
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: plb@dcdwest.uucp (Phil Blais)
Subject: Re: HELP! Where's Futaba?
Organization: ITT Aerospace/Communications Division - West
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 04:40:00 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.212319.25631@informix.com> robertw@informix.com (Robert Weinberg) writes:
>In article <1992Jul21.132002.28675@linus.mitre.org> mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael  
>A. McEvilley) writes:
>> And as the other posters mentioned, you should get replacement servo gears 
>> from a local hobby shop.
>> 
>> Michael
>
>Right. I called Futaba, and they do not deal individual units - you have to go  
>through a hobby shop. Actually, they sounded kinda cranky, even before I asked  
>about getting a part.
>
It may depend on what you need. I ordered a replacement snap-roll switch
for a 7UAP transmitter with no hassle. Possibly because it was not an item
normally stocked by hobby dealers.

-- 
phil blais  N6KXD AMA 12662      ITT    Aerospace Communications Division
dcdwest!plb@ucsd.edu           DEFENSE    10060 Carroll Canyon Road
						San Diego, CA 92131
From: wd6cmu@netcom.com (Eric Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: R/C Glider crashing!
Date: 23 Jul 92 20:48:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

This didn't happen to me, but somebody told me about the time he was
thermal soaring and got into a good one by circling in the same place a
bird was.  His plane got way up there and he was at it quite a while
and eventually the bird flew off.  Pretty soon it started to get dark,
so he figured it was time to bring the glider down.  Just about that
time, his glider flapped its wings -- he'd been flying the bird for the
last half-hour or so.  Never did find that glider.

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Williams     wd6cmu@netcom.com  |  Never attribute to malice that which
WD6CMU@WD6CMU.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NA       |  is adequately explained by stupidity.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Flying with Bad Manners
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 00:08:49 GMT

In article <1992Jul19.221943.128@lrc.edu> neal@lrc.edu writes:
|In a recent post, Scott mentions spins over the heads of spectators, 
|buzzing dogs, etc.  Let me be the first to absoutly condem this kind
|of flying under any circumstances.
|
|Folks, we have enough trouble keeping flying sites on private land,
|much less in public areas.  The last thing we need is a spectator 
|injured by carelessness - scratch that - sheer stupidity.  Try a 
|stunt like that with a County Commisioner in the crowd and see how
|long it takes to shut down every flying site in the county, 
|power or otherwise.

I agree it may be dangerous, but I hesitated to say anything, simply
because the poster was from Down Under.  I suggest that perhaps some
of our attitudes about model airplane safety come from our extremely
safety paranoid society, and its extreme litiginousness.  (Wow, a five
dollar word! :-)  

I have chased birds with a model airplane.  The safety-crats say that
is dangerous.  I do not agree. (although I do consider it to be a
cruel act, to the bird; file it under adolescent idiocy.)  Flying
over spectators didn't used to be a capitol offense.  Really.  That
is a fairly recent addition to the safety code.  (Fairly recent, meaning
less than 25 years old.)  It doesn't mean it's not dangerous, it simply
means that it was not recognized as so.

Is there a flying-site shortage in Australia, like there is here?  What
*is* the safety consciousness, there?

Scott, do you have any input to this discussion?

			Dave Svoboda, Ignorant Yank, Palatine, IL
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Props
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 04:43:13 GMT


I fly Taipan 7x6's on my .28s and 8x6's on .36s (and
6 1/2x4's on my .15s...) but don't mind me.. I'm into
some crazy flying!  9-)



By the way... If you like huge 14 and 15" wood props 
give Indy R/C a call. They had a bucket full of 14x10s
for $1.70 each (I bought one just to have hanging around)
and 15 inchers of some sort for $2.50 apiece. 



1-800-338-INDY.


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca ()
Subject: Re: Taildraggers taking off (P-factor & Torque)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 19:25:03 GMT

In article <5828.2a758e95@hayes.com> bcoleman@hayes.com (Bill Coleman) writes:
>Read the following again, Iskander. If the thrust exceeds the total
>of weight and drag, it will not slacken off in speed.

All Iskandar is saying is that a propeller is not a thrust machine. It
creates LIFT, and this lift decreases as the plane's airspeed increases since
angle of attack decreases. It follows that a greater than 1:1 static thrust
may not translate into unlimited vertical since the excess thrust may not be
enough to overcome BOTH the increasing drag on the airplane and the
decreasing thrust. As an example, consider a VERY large diameter, VERY low
pitch prop. This prop will have high static thrust since it moves a lot of
air, but long before form drag on the plane becomes significant, the maximum
speed of air moving through the prop will be reached. If this is too slow to
keep the plane flying properly, then it will fall off to one side.

>> If the prop is actually providing drag (since, as you say, the 
>> airspeed is so high that the blade is at negative AOA) then the 
>> prop can't be providing thrust, can it. 
>
>Sure it can. Just because a wing is at a slightly negative AOA doesn't
>mean it produces no lift. What makes airplanes descend is having less
>lift available than you have wieght. The same principle applies here to
>props. It is the forward-pointing component of lift that cause the prop
>to speed up (think of it as negative induced drag)

I don't think this is right. AOA and lift are defined relative to the air
stream. If there is less lift than weight, then the airplane will accelerate
downward. If lift is equal to weight, the airplane will continue doing what it
was doing, i.e. either climbing steadily, flying level, or descending in a
steady glide. At zero AOA the plane is in free fall.  Of course the free fall
itself will tend to change the AOA (not to mention drag effects and terminal
velocity), so to remain in free fall a plane would have to follow a parabolic
path.

Cheers!
Max
--
Max Feil  mkfeil@bnr.ca | Disclaimer:
Bell-Northern Research  |   What do I know? I'm just a Nerd on the Big Ranch.
P.O Box 3511 Station C, |
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.| "Enrich The Soil, Not EveryBody's Goal" -Peter Gabriel
Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:3033 sci.electronics:13464
From: co@bildsun1.mednet.gu.se (Christer Olsson)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,sci.electronics
Subject: Re: How to dispose of NiCads?
Date: 28 Jul 92 14:01:18 GMT
Reply-To: co@bildsun1.mednet.gu.se (Christer Olsson)
Organization: MedNet, University of Gothenburg

In article <1992Jul27.174939.27722@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu>, hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto) writes:
|> In article <1992Jul27.161240.4905@nynexst.com>, rsilvers@powwow.nynexst.com (Rob Silvers) writes:
|> >
|> >
|> >	I have a bunch of NiCad cells that I no longer want.  Should I just
|> >throw them away?  Is there an established place to bring them?  
|> >
|> >--Rob.
|> >
|> >
|> 
|> A federal regulation was recently passed making it unlawful to dispose of
|> NiCd cells.  I don't know whether the regulation has taken effect yet, but
|> the manufacturers have agreed to accept their cells back and recycle them
|> in accordance with the new regulation.  I'd suggest a call to Sanyo (if you
|> have Sanyo cells) at the number in their advertisements asking for an
|> address to have them shipped to.
|> 

Here in Sweden, we have many red mailboxes placed somewhere and they are for 
collecting old NiCad and Alkaline cells. No problems to dispose NiCad cells.
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: HELP! Where's Futaba?
Date: 22 Jul 92 13:25:20 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation

In article <1992Jul22.044000.15012@dcdwest.uucp> plb@dcdwest.uucp (Phil 
Blais) writes:
> In article <1992Jul21.212319.25631@informix.com> robertw@informix.com 
(Robert Weinberg) writes:
> >In article <1992Jul21.132002.28675@linus.mitre.org> mmcevill@mitre.org 
(Michael  
> >A. McEvilley) writes:
> >> And as the other posters mentioned, you should get replacement servo 
gears 
> >> from a local hobby shop.
> >> 
> >> Michael
> >
> >Right. I called Futaba, and they do not deal individual units - you 
have to go  
> >through a hobby shop. Actually, they sounded kinda cranky, even before 
I asked  
> >about getting a part.
> >
> It may depend on what you need. I ordered a replacement snap-roll switch
> for a 7UAP transmitter with no hassle. Possibly because it was not an 
item
> normally stocked by hobby dealers.

When I was flying with Futaba equipment I always found the techs at Futaba 
to be very helpful.  I owned a 7UAP and spent a good 45 minutes discussing 
some of its operations with a guy in their radio department.  

I also have had several discussions regarding YS engines with Rich Verano 
(when he's around), who is also a world class Pylon and/or Formula 500 
racer.  And I met Steve Helms (FAI pattern) at the WRAM show 2 years ago, 
and again, got good advice and answers without feeling that I was 
'imposing' on his time.  But, you have to get through the voice mail and 
customer service traps before you get to the "good" people.  Sometimes I 
think their job is to frustrate you into giving up!!!


Michael
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 21:54:04 EDT
From: <BTM105@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Starting RC Helicopters

I have about 2 or so years of airplane   experience from when I was in the Army
 and am planning on buying a helicopter when I graduate from college.  There ar
e 2 models I have in mind, the Concept 30 or the Shuttle.  I would appreciate i
f anyone could offer me any input or suggestions on either of these 2 machines
or advise about helicopters in general.  I am also curios about electric-powere
d machines.            Thank You for Your Time
                           Brian Micek
                           Penn State University; PA, USA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: djones@iex.iex.com
Subject: Re: New kind of cover finish for R/C airplan.
Organization: IEX Corporation Inc.
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:19:00 GMT

In article <2881@mitisft.Convergent.COM> dtt@mitisft.Convergent.COM (Duc Tran)
writes:
>Hello World,
>
>The cover that I look for is the same as the cover that many ARF pre-build
>kits use; The cover (or sheet) has a smooth plastic outside and a thin
>and dense foam-like inside. So the sheet (thickness: ~1/3mm) is much thicker 
I have never seen this material available for sale. And not owning
any ARF's of this type I cannot speak for this material. I personally 
feel that with proper surface preparation any covering material will make for
an outstanding model. Each one requires, perhaps, a different amount of surface
 preparation effort. I am also suspicious that this material you
seek will look poor if the surface is inadequately prep'd.

I have recently covered a Flair Magnatillia with 21st Century Fabric
from the Coverite folks. I am really sold on this stuff! It goes on
GREAT! Compound curves, IMHO, are easier then with Monokote. It 
has a beautiful finish. This will be my covering of choice for all my
non-WWI scale birds. Another plus is the 21st Century Paint. This
is the easiest paint I have ever used! Goes on smooth and easy and
matches the fabric (and the film I suspect) very well. I would 
recommend these products to anyone.

Doug
-------------------------------------------------------------------
'I am a traveler of                |    Douglas R. Jones
     both Time and Space'          |    IEX Corporation
       Led Zeppelin                |    (214)612-2600 ext: 325
                                   |    djones@iex.iex.com
                                   |    uunet!iex!djones
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Mech retracts
Date: 26 Jul 92 23:27:36 GMT
Organization: Computer Power Software

hi there,
I have used Dave Brown retracts in a SIG King Kobra, converted to tail dragger
to avoid a nose leg. I used a normal servo on its side, shaft aligned with
fuse centre line. I had to fabricate my own hook on one retract, beacuse they
are not handed - ie as they are made the pushrod hook-ups end up one at the
front, one at the rear when mounted, and this would have given me misaligned
push rods, or bends. I used a bit of circuit board base screwed to the operating
arm. As I have Fut 9vap I could set up the travels ok. I used a separate 180mah
battery, via a fut y lead (plug to receiver has +ve lead removed). I seem to 
get 10-15 cycles before it gets slow. Next time I might try goldbergs, as they
have more distance between leg and operating arm- the DBs are close, and in a
foam wing it is hard to fit the pushrods and connect them with minimal removal
of foam.
They do look MUCH better in the air without those big black things hanging
down dont they??
jp
From: mccrorey@convex.com (Martin McCrorey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Thermals don't travel at prevailing wind speed
Date: 28 Jul 92 14:15:14 GMT
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

>The same way bubbles get to the surface of a river.  If they only
>went down stream they would never come up.  If they come up then
>obviously they aren't going down stream as fast as the rest of the
>river.
>
>Bye          --+--
>Kay R. Fisher  |


Well, the individual bubbles travel faster than the water.  They rise
vertically through the moving mass of water (discounting turbulence)
and the individual bubbles have a velocity that is the vector sum of
the water's (almost) horizontal velocity, and the bubble's vertical
velocity.  A stream of bubbles coming from a fixed source would have a
stationary position in the stream of water, relative to the source of
bubbles.  I can't see why they would not go down stream as fast as the
rest of the river.

I haven't flown gliders, but it seems like thermals would behave
similarly, with some qualifications.  Thermals may not depend on a
stationary source; rather, they start at a point on the hot ground
where the surface currents converge, and that could move with the
wind.  The surface current pattern could serve to make the movement lag
behind the wind, though.  Also, if the thermal angles downwind like the
stream of bubbles, then a glider moving upward would have to move
downwind to follow it.

Martin McCrorey
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: train@qualcom.qualcomm.com (Tom Rainwater)
Subject: HELI FOR SALE
Summary: MUST SELL THIS CHOPPER!
Organization: Qualcomm, Inc., San Diego, CA
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 02:26:15 GMT

I have a schluter Junior 50 with an O.S. 50 Helicopter engine, JR Century 7
channel PCM helicopter radio, Futaba Gyro, setup and ready to fly.  The heli
is very smooth and stable in a hover, which is all I am able to do with it
right now.  But also flies well in forward flight when flown by an experienced
pilot.  The setup also includes a set of wieghted main blades as well as an 
extra set of factory main blades.  I am without an airplane right now and am
suffering from flight withdrawl!!  Please Help!!  I will let the whole thing
go for $500.00 which is much much less than what I have into it.  Please call
me if you are interested during the day at 619-597-5365 or evenings and
weekends at 619-632-8511.
e
-- 
===================================================
Tom Rainwater
Engineer
Qualcomm Inc.
San Diego, CA
(619) 597-5365
TRAIN@QUALCOMM.COM
===================================================
Xref: sparky rec.models.rc:3043 sci.electronics:13507
From: miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,sci.electronics
Subject: Re: How to dispose of NiCads?
Date: 28 Jul 92 13:00:05 GMT
Organization: Syscon Corporate Headquarters - South Bend, IN USA

rsilvers@powwow.nynexst.com (Rob Silvers) writes:



>	I have a bunch of NiCad cells that I no longer want.  Should I just
>throw them away?  Is there an established place to bring them?  

>--Rob.
I think it is not recommened to just dump them because the Cadium is
nasty stuff. Most cities that have recyling stations have an area for
batteries.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc