HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Brass/bronze melting at home?
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 01:26:47 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.111413.27507@newstand.syr.edu>, isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account) writes:
|> In article <hank.714973959@well.sf.ca.us> hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts) writes:
|> >
|> >Be very, very careful about ventilation.
|> >
|> >Read up on "brass fume fever" (nasty but transient) and on lead
|> >poisoning (subtle and cumulative, and think about the next person
|> >who might be living/working in the space where you melt any brass.
|> >
|> >Both the lead and the zinc will boil out of melted brass and cause trouble.
|> >
|> >I'd stick with having professionals do casting.
|> 
|> Using Bronze is safer and easier.. (Copper/tin, and melts at
|> less temperature, and flows better)
|> 
|> Forced air and charcoal (Outdoors!) will get you enough heat.
|> 
|> A propane torch will almost certaily not work. It's only hot
|> enough at the very tip, and won't heat up a large area.
|> Even a oxy-acytelyne torch doesn't work well for melting for
|> casting purposes. Plenty of temperature, but not a whole lotta
|> BTU's..  (And then there's gasses going into your metals)
|> You could try MAPP gas. But I'd suggest charcoal/forced air with
|> perhaps MAPP for extra temperature.
|> 
|> And believe that bit about ventilation - Even outside, you can get
|> a lungful of fumes.
|> --
|> Mike_Schechter@isr.syr.edu | XLII,B,+3dB,Non-Nak | Make Tapes, Not War


BE VERY VERY VERY CAREFUL ABOUT VENTILATION!!!!

EVEN WITH BRONZE!!!!

DEPENDING ON THE SOURCE, THESE METALS CAN CONTAIN TRACE QUANTITIES OF
OTHER METALS.

I'VE HEARD OF ONE CASE OF CADMIUM POISONING FROM AT HOME BRONZE CASTING.

Using forced air with charcoal is going to burn alot of charcoal, making it
an expensive proposition.  Coal would be a cheaper, though dirtier alternative.
Any book on blacksmithing (and some on knifemaking, etc.) will give instructions
for setting up a coal fired forge.  Bronze would be preferable to Brass for
casting.  Depending on the particular alloy, you might have trouble melting
it in a regular forge (ie. there are some weird alloys out there).  

cheers,
Rick C.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Michael S. Schechter - ISR group account)
Subject: Re: Brass/bronze melting at home?
Organization: Institute for Sensory Research
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 11:14:13 EDT

In article <hank.714973959@well.sf.ca.us> hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts) writes:
>
>Be very, very careful about ventilation.
>
>Read up on "brass fume fever" (nasty but transient) and on lead
>poisoning (subtle and cumulative, and think about the next person
>who might be living/working in the space where you melt any brass.
>
>Both the lead and the zinc will boil out of melted brass and cause trouble.
>
>I'd stick with having professionals do casting.

Using Bronze is safer and easier.. (Copper/tin, and melts at
less temperature, and flows better)

Forced air and charcoal (Outdoors!) will get you enough heat.

A propane torch will almost certaily not work. It's only hot
enough at the very tip, and won't heat up a large area.
Even a oxy-acytelyne torch doesn't work well for melting for
casting purposes. Plenty of temperature, but not a whole lotta
BTU's..  (And then there's gasses going into your metals)
You could try MAPP gas. But I'd suggest charcoal/forced air with
perhaps MAPP for extra temperature.

And believe that bit about ventilation - Even outside, you can get
a lungful of fumes.
--
Mike_Schechter@isr.syr.edu | XLII,B,+3dB,Non-Nak | Make Tapes, Not War
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Starting yeast
Date: 4 Sep 92 16:54:12 GMT
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA

In article <1992Sep2.122749@IASTATE.EDU>
 jessie@IASTATE.EDU (Brent Danielson) writes:

>       How much dry malt to add to the liquid?

I calculated it once, trying to get 1.020 wort, but ...
Anyway, I use about 1 oz. of dry malt extract per pint of starter.

>       Is 1.5 liters too much or too little?

It is sort of on the large size, as 1 pint to 1 quart is fairly average.

>       Is a 2 liter long-neck fask too small for this volume of liquid?

You shouldn't get much foaming in the starter culture.

>       Is 24 hr long enough to allow the yeast to become active?

Yep.  Ideally, you would pitch just before any foam starts to form on top.  
In practice, I usually pitch a few hours after that.

>       How important are yeast nutrients, and should these be boiled too?

Not very if you have good quality malt extract.





John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: sterilization with a microwave?????
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 30 Aug 92 17:07:21 GMT

hhaas@RAIL9000.gatech.edu (Harry P. Haas) writes:

>>>Can a microwave be used for sterilizing smallish, non-metallic items?

>When I started brewing, I microwaved everything.  I rinse everything
>with water, leaving it damp, and microwave it for 30sec to a minute
>depending on how massive the object is.  I also microave all my water
>in gallon containers for one minute.

>How do I know it works?  Well, I don't.  But I've only had ONE batch go
>bad on me and I KNOW what went wrong with that one.  So there is no
>evidence that it does NOT work.  And the milk thing inplies that it
>should.  The theory is that bacteria is primarily on the surface, and
>although the mass does not get hot, the surface, on a micro level,
>does.  Seems reasonable.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm............

I'd bet that what's really going on here is that your equipment is
pretty clean to begin with, and what little micorbial flora you have
is getting swamped out by the yeast you add.  No, I don't have
any controlled experiments showing microwave ovens CAN'T sterilize
equipment, but from what I know of microwaves (a little) and bacteria
(a lot) I can't imagine that they could be effective.   While I realize
that real life is not limited by my imagination, I remain highly skeptical
of the above claims.  Didn't Jack S. actually do some experiments a
while back on just this subject?

What the hell, I work in a lab.  Here's what I'll do:

I'll take 3 250 mL flasks, one autoclaved, two non-sterile.  I'll
rinse the two non-sterile flasks with tap water, then microwave
one of them for 30 seconds, as prescribed above.  I will add 25 mL
of sterile bacterial growth media to each flask, cover, and set
aside at room temperature for a few days.  I'll report any
growth in the flasks The autoclaved flask should have no growth,
and thus will be a control for my rusty sterile technique.
The rinsed, non-microwaved flask should be a microbial zoo.
We shall see where the microwaved flask falls.  Does this sound
fair?

Jon Binkley

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly (4274))
Subject: Re: HOMEBREW Digest #954
Organization: Cray Research Inc.
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:19:41 CDT

>
>Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 09:42:25 -0400
>From: cestes@argos5.DNET.NASA.GOV (Chris Estes)
>Subject: Siphons
>
>
>And now a question on starting siphons...  Starting siphons is a part of brewing
>that I WORRY about!  Well, sometimes.  I generally try to sanitize my tubes
>in a standard bleach/water solution.  I fill them with tap water and start
>as recommended in most books.  But, during the process of filling them with
>tap water, my hands touch the tubes.  The tubes touch the sink.  This worries
>me.  Sometimes I don't fill the tubes enough and I have to start over.
>If I do this too many times I might start the siphon with my MOUTH!  Then
>I really worry.  I've made a few bad batches, and usually attribute it to
>bad siphoning techniques (except for the dropped thermometer which I retreived
>with an unwashed hand...).  Anyway... My question:  Has anyone ever used a
>hand or drill operated pump for racking.  I've seen them for pumping gas
>from one car to another and other dubious activities and wonder about their
>application in beer.  Any comments?
>
> -Chris-
>

I have an idea that I'm going to try when brewing my next batch (to be bottled
in a week or so).  This should help you, too.  It involves using a short 
length of plastic tubing that will fit snugly OVER the siphon tube to start
the siphon:

1. Obtain a short (1-2 feet) piece of siphon tube that has an INTERNAL diameter
   equal to the EXTERNAL diameter of your "normal" siphon hose.  This fatter
   tubing should fit snugly onto your siphon hose, not too loosely.  This
   tube will hereafter be called the "starter tube".

2. Sanitize the siphon tube and starter tube.

3. Wear sanitized latex surgical gloves (if you want to be that extreme 8^) ).

4. Remove the siphon tube from the sanitizing solution, and put a tubing
   clamp onto it near one end.  This will be used to control flow.

5. Place one end of the siphon tube into the wort to be siphoned.

6. Slip the OTHER end of the siphon tube inside one end of the starter tube.

7. Put the other end of the starter tube into your mouth and suck the
   wort into the siphon tube until it nears the end.

8. Close the tubing clamp.

9. Remove the larger diameter tube from the siphon tube.

You are now ready to release the clamp and siphon away, with virtually no
risk of contamination.

Best of luck and keep on brewing,

Matt

==============================================================================
kelly@spyro.cray.com                 |
                                     | Semper ubi sub ubi.
Opinions expressed herein are just   |
that.                                | -Julius Caesar
                                     |
==============================================================================




Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ricks@itx.isc.com (Rick Sutherland)
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Organization: Interactive Systems Corporation, Boulder, CO
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 17:32:01 GMT

In the colonial times, women did significant amounts of homebrewing.  Relics of
this past can be seen in towns like Boston, where they have a street/section of
town called Alewife.
--
+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------
Alcohol is a DRUG	Caffeine is a DRUG	Nicotine is a DRUG

	ARE YOU DRUG-FREE?.......OR POSSIBLY A "War on (some) Drugs Bigot?"
From: andy@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Andy Bond)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: cost of a carboy
Date: 1 Sep 92 22:55:27 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Comp. Sci., Victoria Uni. of Wellington, New Zealand.
X-Mailer: mail-news 4.0


What does a new 5 or 6 gallon carboy go for in the US?  I can get one
here for about NZ$75 which is ahh, something like, ummm US$40.

andy
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jay Marshall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Experiences with (cheap) Bev-Con regulator?
Date: 26 Aug 1992 19:09:10 GMT
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company

A while back someone mentioned a company called Bev-Con International as
a source for CO2 cylinders.  I called them and, while they were out of the
cylinders, they do have the two-stage low pressure (0-60psi) regulators
in stock.  The regulators are new, and they're asking $36.50 for them, which
is considerably lower than the prices that I've gotten for used ones in
the Houston area.  Has anyone had any experience with the Bev-Con regulators?
Additionally, are there any particulars that I should look out for when
buying a regulator?

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Marshall                       
marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov    
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(standard disclaimer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: petek@vipunen.hut.fi (Petri 'Pete' Karha)
Subject: Re: Bottle size and foam
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Date:  4 Sep 92 09:58:32 GMT

In <1992Sep3.160009.21027@msc.cornell.edu> bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038) writes:
>produce alcohol and CO2.  My 16 oz. bottles are always carbonated sooner
>than my 12 oz. bottles.

Maybe that could be it! Could it be that faster carbonation makes more
foam and better taste?
-- 
s32852b@puukko.hut.fi ! Petri 'Pete' Karha    ! Helsinki University of Tech.
petek@otax.tky.hut.fi ! Kirstinharju 11 L 198 ! Metrology Research Institute
petek@vipunen.hut.fi  ! SF-02760 Espoo        ! Tel: +358-0-4512282
Tel: +358-0-8053655   ! FINLAND the FUNLAND   ! Fax: +358-0-460224
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jacke@meaddata.com (Jack Eddington)
Subject: Re: Bottle Size & Foam
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 16:23:28 GMT
Distribution: usa

 bickham@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Scott Bickham,C17 Clark Hall,56079,2737038)
writes:

>>From article <13631.2aa5f68c@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu>, by cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu:
>> The larger the bottle the beer is in, the longer it will take to 
>> carbonate.  You probably tasted the two different bottles at the 
>> same time, so the aging was not consistent.
>> 
>I have to disagree.  If there is an equal amout of head space, the larger
>bottle will carbonate faster because there are more fermentables to
>produce alcohol and CO2.  My 16 oz. bottles are always carbonated sooner
>than my 12 oz. bottles.

Although I've never tried different size bottles, I figure that shouldn't 
stop me from putting my $0.02 in. I don't know who is correct as to 
whether a larger bottle carbonates faster or slower than a smaller bottle,
but I don't believe Scott's argument is valid. Yes there are more fermentables
in a larger bottle, but there is also more liguid to absorb the CO2. Thus 
the fact there are more fermentables does not argue for faster carbonation.
I don't dispute your experience, just the reasoning you gave for it.
  



-- 
Jack Eddington -- jacke@meaddata.com  -- uunet!meaddata!jacke
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: markn@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (mark.nevar)
Subject: Re: shipping beer
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:04:31 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.185334.29313@worldbank.org> aki <aki@atlas.worldbank.org> writes:
>In article <1992Aug31.160515.3041@epas.toronto.edu> A. Burgess,
>burgess@epas.utoronto.ca writes:
>>Okay, no one at the Post Office or anywhere else in the federal
>>government seems able to answer this question with any certainty, and
>>maybe it's a FAQ, but can someone tell me whether and how it is
>>possible (i.e. legal or at least quasi-legal) to send a gift of
>
>I don't know about homebrew, but I am a member of "Beers
>Across America", a monthly microbrew club that sends a 12
>pack of beer from two microbrewies each month.  They send
>it via UPS with no problem.  They use a heavy carboard box
>marked "Fragile-contains breakable glass" on the outside.
>Each bottle is sectioned off by a tic tac doe type cardboard
>design and I've haven't had any bottles yet arrive broken.
>I don't know what the laws are concerning interstate shipment
>of beer but if they can do it, it must be legal.  Check with

Actually what they do depends on where you live. They are in Illinois,
a state that UPS says allows them to ship beer "interstate". Now,
if you live in another such state, BAA will ship the beer to you
via UPS. If you live in a state that UPS says doesn't allow interstate
shipment of beer, then BAA ships it to your state via private carrier
who delivers it to a UPS station for it's final journey. NJ is one such
state. My monthly shipments run $22 for a $13.95 (?) product.

Note I say "UPS says." This is to indicate what UPS in that state believes
is the state regulation, and not what the state regulation actually is.
It seems most (if not all) states have no policy banning interstate beer
shipments, but UPS will not investigate it further.
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: HOMEBREW Digest #959
Date: 3 Sep 92 16:59:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bu0HvD.BHL
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before

In article <1992Sep1.222347.21953@news.nd.edu> ulick@chopin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>
>Blame the yeast.  My lowest FG ever had 3lb of Laaglander Amber dried malt 
>extract (also pale malt).  It hit 1008 or less.  It was fermented with
>the attenuative Edme dried yeast (about the only good thing I`ll say about it-
>can you say fusel alcohol!!).
>

Can you give me the name of a good attenuative dried yeast?  I like dry brews.
What's wrong with Edme yeast?

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: A question about sparging
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 17:35:26 GMT

In article 20479@u.washington.edu, pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher) writes:
>	I've got a question about sparging.  I've decided to do 
>all-grain brewing from now on (it looks like more fun.)  I've
>made a wort chiller and a 2 5-gallon bucket lauter-tun (like
>the one in Charlie P.'s book, TNCJOHB.

Identical to my setup...it's served me well for more than twenty batches so far...

>	My question is: Charlie P. talks about sparge water
>used in sparging.  Is the sparge water that water that was 
>brewing with the grains, or is it another pot of 170 degreee
>water?  Also, how much water is used in sparging? 

Sparge water is the water that you pour through the grains.  It's
separate from the water you used in the mash.  "By the book", you use
as much sparge water as you used in the mash.  In practice, I heat
about five gallons of sparge water, and sparge until I have six gallons
of wort.  (Many brewers sparge until the SG of the runoff drops to a
certain point, regardless of the volume of wort they collect.)
 
>	This is the way I understand sparging: strain out the 
>grains and and put into lauter-tun with three inches of water
>above the false bottom.  Then slowly pour in the 170 water that
>was brewing with the grains.  Does this sound right?

Here's how I do it (which sounds close to your description):
	- pour sparge water into the lauter tun until the false bottom
	  is covered.  (This is called "underletting".  I often forget to
	  do this, and always kick myself for forgetting.)
	- Dump the mash from your mash kettle into your lauter tun.
	- Recycle a couple of gallons of wort by drawing it off a quart
	  at a time and carefully pouring it back over the grain bed.
	  (Some brewers skip that step.)
	- Draw off the wort and transfer it to your boiler (which in my
	  case is my (rinsed-out) mash kettle).  Add sparge water as
	  needed to keep the level of the water maybe an inch above the
	  grain bed.

Check Papazian or Miller for more details.  Start with a method like
this, and modify it to make it work in your brewery.

>	I would appreciate a succinct method to this sparging.
>I've got the rest of the process of all-grain brewing figured out
>and I can't wait to get this 9-pound bag of grain turned into
>a Redhook-like ale.

Good luck!

gak

---
I don't know what system you use,  you might try vodka in Evian bottles.   Some
people like  cream in  their morning coffee,  I spike  mine with  a little  JD.
Mickey's Big Mouths are an excellent choice, you can use the empty bottles as a
desktop vase.                               -Hoodlum Empire "Get Drunk At Work"
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Date: 31 Aug 92 20:43:14 GMT
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

>>Come on guys!  Here's a chance to increase the number of members
in your hobby!  Anyone seriously interested in *any* hobby should
be glad to see more people -- regardless of sex -- getting
interested in it.  Owners of brew shops would also benefit as
they would get to sell a lot more supplies.


Exactly!  But the operative thing there is the phrase "regardless of sex." 
Then again, I didn't do too well in marketing class.  It seemed to
hypocritically childish to me.  No offense intended toward any marketing
people, though.
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Carboys and Crates:Was DON'T FLAME...
Date: 4 Sep 92 03:04:53 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

You can use the smaller SQUARE milk crates (readily available behind most
grocery stores, or in every other college dorm room!) to store carboys.  
I've used them for rinsing/storing larger bottles too.  If you stack them up-
top side forward you can place the carboys on their side and stack them (when
they are not full of beer of course!) and they are pretty stable.  If you are
worried (don't be) strap them in with bungee cords or those black plastic tie
downs.  The sparklets people have essentially this setup in their trucks, but
nicer crates (bigger).  You may be able to aquire crates for carboys from them. 
Offer your gunga din a beer and see if he'll turn his back while a crate (and
carboy for that matter) disappear.  

	BTW to Dave Wiley (you've almost got my last name,.....but not...
do you pronounce it the Why-lee, or will-ee, mines Why-  I know you all wanted
to know this, so now you do...)   My girlfriend DOES think scars are sexy.
Either that or she's just humoring me, or trying to get me to keep my facial
hair off- which covers several scars.....    ANYWAY- BREW ON!   

			John  WhyLee (The Coyote) SLK6P@cc.usu.edu
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Why Don't Women Brew?
Date: 28 Aug 92 13:43:55 GMT
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <ricks.714763921@mexia>, ricks@itx.isc.com (Rick Sutherland) writes:
> In the colonial times, women did significant amounts of homebrewing.  Relics of
> this past can be seen in towns like Boston, where they have a street/section of
> town called Alewife.
> --

An Alewife is also a fish.  The fish may get its name from the practise of women
brewing beer (Papazian mentions this) but I'll bet the street name is from the
fish.
	Ed




> +-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------
> Alcohol is a DRUG	Caffeine is a DRUG	Nicotine is a DRUG
> 
> 	ARE YOU DRUG-FREE?.......OR POSSIBLY A "War on (some) Drugs Bigot?"
From: cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Help to all
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:42:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: ohstpy.13664.2aa775e2

Just a note- a lot of the questions asked on this network would easily
be answered by looking in a good book, the two best being(I think)
the Complete Joy of Homebrewing and Dave Miller's book (I think this is
the title) The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing.
They are a small investement, anbd have plenty of information 
that could help anybody.
Not that I or others mind helping out fellow homebrewers, it is fun,
but why not have the book yourself-it is fun reading and will
help a lot!

So to make life easier, buy a book and become an expert yourself
so that you can then help others.

Of course, experience is the best help, so go brew a batch!

		Chris

P.S.  I hope nobody takes this post the wrong way- there ane NO hard
feeling!!!!!