From: homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov
Subject: HOMEBREW Digest #991
Organization: The Internet
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 08:23:24 GMT


HOMEBREW Digest #991		             Thu 15 October 1992


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  American Wheat Ale (whg)
  Our Man Tim (chris campanelli)
  Re: yarrow (Jim Grady)
  a fungus amungus (dave ballard)
  re: glo:gg (CW06GST)
  Insulating my boiling pot? ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Maple Syrup Beer Recipes (hinkens)
  what is am malt liquor? / beer vs ale etc. (Tony Babinec)
  pale ale vs ipa/what is bass ale? (Tony Babinec)
  Homebrew Digest #990 (October 14, 1992) (gkushmer)
  Calcium CLoride (Joe Rolfe)
  Starters revisited (korz)
  Samual Smith Taddy Porter recipe (GLENN O. VEACH)
  OOOPS!!!! (korz)
  Cranberry Mead (William R Tschantz)
  Pressure cooker & Labels ("Mark Cronenweth - cronen@vms.cis.pitt.edu")
  Malt Liqour Definitions (Jon Binkley)
  Mendocino (AAAF000)
  Glogg (Mike Mahler)
  Hop substitutes? (Carlo Fusco)
  Who? (aguado e)
  GABF (Jack Schmidling)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 10:27:04 CDT
From: whg@tellabs.com
Subject: American Wheat Ale


Can anyone in the know out there post a description of American Wheat Ale.
I've sampled "AWA's" that have been so close to Weizens that I don't know
why the brewer differenciated. On the other side of the spectrum, many
micro's (Dave Miller's being an example) brew a wheat ale that is so
pedestrian that you'd never know there was wheat in it (The main reason for
the beer seems to be to have an exotic name yet still appeal to the timid
masses).  So what's the "official" line on American Wheat Ale?

Enquiring minds want to know,


Walter Gude    ||   whg@tellabs.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 00:02 CDT
From: akcs.chrisc@vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli)
Subject: Our Man Tim

Tim Norris asked that the following be posted:

Siebel is restructuring themselves and in the process are shedding some
of their distribution responsibilities, of which the Belgian malts is
one.  Schrier will be picking up the Belgian malt distribution and expect
an increase of maybe a penny per pound.  While Schrier will concentrate
only on supplying micros and brewpubs, they have no plans to allow any
one single distributor to handle the retail side.  If an malt gets
dropped by Schrier, it will be replaced with a higher quality malt to
replace it.

So the bottom line to the nervous nellies (myself included) is that the
Belgian malt supply to the US is not expected to be interupted, the
price will rise ever so slightly, and no one single retailer will be
allowed exclusive distribution rights.

The question now is: how trustworthy is Schrier?  Will they keep their
word?

chris campanelli

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 7:43:59 EDT
From: Jim Grady <jimg@hpwalq.wal.hp.com>
Subject: Re: yarrow

In HBD #990, Jack Thompson asks:

> I would like to brew some pre-hops beer, and wonder whether or not any one
> has information of the use of yarrow to bitter the brew?

Although I cannot answer the question directly, I can say that there was a
book (I don't know if it still in print) called "Recipes for Prizewinning
Wines" by Bryan Acton (or it may have been Peter Duncan).  It had a recipe
for Yarrow Wine in its herb wine section and that may serve as a starting
point for you.  The author said that this wine was used primarily for
medicinal purposes.  It tasted awful (but then again, there was probably
no sweetness to balance the bitterness) but was supposed to be a great
help with colds and catarrh.

I cannot find my copy; I bought it in 1973 or so and lost it during a hiatus
in brewing.  I have not seen it in stores sinces then.  It was published by
"Amateur Winemaker" - the same folks who publish Acton & Duncan's "Progressive
Winemaking".

If you cannot find that book, you also might want to check C.J.J. Berry's
book "First Steps in Winemaking."  He has a bazillion recipes including
an "Onion Wine" so he may have tried yarrow by now as well.

Good luck!
- --
Jim Grady                  |"Talent imitates, genius steals."
Internet: jimg@wal.hp.com  |
Phone: (617) 290-3409      |                    T. S. Eliot

------------------------------

Date: 14 Oct 1992   8:39 EDT
From: dab@blitzen.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard)
Subject: a fungus amungus



Hey now-  It was bound to happen, right?  I brew the best batch of my
short brewing career- a liberty ale-ish thang that is perfectly clear,
perfectly balanced, basically just perfect.  I dry-hopped in the
secondary with hops grown in a friend's garden (thanks bonehead!)
and let it sit for about 2 weeks.  I racked to a tertiary on Sunday
to let some residual hop junk settle out and planned to bottle
on Monday or Tuesday.

So I head down to the basement yesterday after work to start gathering
bottles and from a distance the beer in the carboy looks like it has
started to ferment again 'cause there's some sort of head on it.  I move
in for a closer look.  My draw drops, my eyes roll back in my head,
a blood-curdling cry echoes throughout the house.  The surface of the
beer is covered with a thin white scum.  It's kind of lacy looking with
little fuzzy nodules here and there with vein-like things extending
into the film.  It looks like the stuff the people had on them when they
crawled out of the pods in "Invasion Of The Body Snatchers."

I made a valid attemp at bottling anyway, although I'm sure the bottles
will develop the same thing since it looked like there were little pieces of
stuff floating throughout the bucket when i primed.  It still tasted
and smelled okay, so I don't know.

Any thoughts on what it is?  I didn't do anything to the hops before I
added them to the secondary, but I think if it was caused by them it would
have appeared sooner.  I sanitzed the carboy in my usual manner (bleach
soak) and basically did nothing different from my usual routine?  I'm
pretty bummed, so any info would be greatly appreciated.  If the scum
forms in the bottle I would be more than happy to send some to anyone
who wants to take a look first hand.

later
dab

=========================================================================
dave ballard
dab@cc.bellcore.com
=========================================================================


------------------------------

Date:        Wed, 14 Oct 92 10:17:11 EST
From: CW06GST <CW06GST%SJUMUSIC.bitnet@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: re: glo:gg

     Several people have commented on glo:gg essence and I just thought
I'd put in my .02.  John was saying that he wanted to make his own
extract from the glo:gg spices that he had purchased but it
was mostly raisins.  It is true that glo:gg is
served with raisins in it, but I don't think that is what it is spiced
with.  The raisins are added in addition to the spices.  So if you are
going to steep the spices to try and make your own tincture I would lose
the raisins.  But, why not just add the spices at the end of the boil
like finishing hops? instead of trying to make a tincture.

     Kurt (and others) have mentioned that the essence is available
in the Chicago area.  He says that the extract is water based just
like that found in Sweden.  If this is the case then to make your
own extract all you have to do is steep the ingredients in water
to get the goodness out of them.  I have glo:gg essence that I
bought in Valbo, (right outside of Ga:vle) Sweden from the pharmacy
(apoteket).  It is not a water based mixture but is alcohol based,
and is what I will be using to make a Christmas ale.  As I have
mentioned before, it comes in 25 ml bottles and is 63% alcohol.
If you would want to make a tincture like this I suggest making
up a solution of grain alcohol, the spices and water.  Make the
volume of alcohol 65% and water 35%.  Heat this covered until it
comes to a boil.  Let cool and strain off the spices.  I have never
tried this so you might want to heat it a little longer. Experiment|

     Kurt also mentioned he had a family recipe for glo:gg.  I have
spent Christmas in Sweden, and I have tried many different family's
glo:gg but noone ever gave me a real recipe.  If you post it I would
greatly appreciate it.


                       Good Luck,
                       Erik Zenhausern

                       cw06gst@sjuvm.bitnet
                       cw06gst@sjuvm.stjohns.edu  (internet)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 10:23:25 EDT
From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu>
Subject: Insulating my boiling pot?

Last night, I was watching my 5+ gallons of wort barely boiling, with
the 11000 BTU burner on full blast under it, and was trying to figure
out what I could do, short of buying a "Cajun Cooker" (and propane, or
extending my gas piping outside), to get it to boil faster (or at
all!)

I dimly recalled a posting in this forum several years ago wherein the
brewer wrapped his pot in some sort of insulation (newspapers?) to get
better performance.  Since I've got a black pot (ceramic on steel) I
imagine that there could be significant heat loss from the sides of
the pot.  I tried wrapping newspaper around the pot, but it started to
char (sitting on a gas burner, after all).

Then I cannibalized an old water heater insulation blanket that I
had never used.  Figured the fiberglass wouldn't burn (but see below).
I did pull off the plastic backing.  This worked, and I was actually
able to sustain a vigorous rolling boil with the lid partly covering
the pot.  But I'm not happy about having that "naked" fiberglass so
near to my food.

*** So, here's the question: Has anyone figured out a good solution to the
*** problem of insulating the sides of a large pot?

Along the way, I tried to put the pot over two burners, but the
configuration of my cooktop makes this essentially impossible (the
control knobs end up underneath the pot -- not a good situation).  I
did manage to melt/burn a little of the fiberglass in the process.
(It smelled sort of "plastic-like", so maybe it's not really
fiberglass.)  Those gas flames are hot!


=Spencer W. Thomas 		|  Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704
   "Genome Informatician"	|  Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109
Spencer.W.Thomas@med.umich.edu	|  313-747-2778, FAX 313-764-4133

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 09:33:20 -0600
From: hinkens@macc.wisc.edu
Subject: Maple Syrup Beer Recipes

To all the creative minds in HBD land:

I have a cousin that brews mostly extract beers.  He is looking for a
recipe that has Maple syrup in it.  I look in the latest edition of _Cat's
Meow_ but I only found a porter.  He prefers lighter beers.

Can anyone help us out?

Thanks in advance!

Jay D. Hinkens
Madison, Wisconsin


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 9:48:49 CDT
From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec)
Subject: what is am malt liquor? / beer vs ale etc.

An American Malt Liquor is a blond lager with an alcohol strength
stronger than an American Premium.  I am not a commercial brewer,
and am not certain of the law here, but I believe the cutoff is
something like 5% alcohol or something like a 1.050 starting
gravity.  The analogy might be to the German Pilsner and German
Export styles, with the latter being higher in gravity.  Of course,
the American beers are nowhere near so hoppy as the German!
In my humble opinion, most American Malt Liquors are rather sweet
and undistinguished in taste, or at least that's what I recall.

U.S. law imposes certain labeling requirements on the commercial
brewer.  A "beer" falls below the above cutoff, while an "ale" or
"malt liquor" fall above.  Again, I invite someone with more
knowledge of commercial brewing and the law to add to this.  But,
you'll notice, for example, that Old Foghorn labels have described
it as "a barley wine-style ale."  I'm guessing that they must call
it an ale by law, and by describing it as a barley wine style, they
are clueing us in as to its strength and style.

In a related vein, you will notice that some of the German import
Oktoberfests are "beers," while others will have a label such as
"Oktoberfestbier."  Examples of the former tend to be lighter in
color, less flavorful, and, it seems, under 1.050 or so in SG.
Examples of the latter include Spaten and Paulaner, which in my
opinion are tasty and exemplary of style.  In "Vienna," George and
Laurie Fix point out that many of the German Fest beers are in the
1.051 - 1.055 SG range, which would make them "bier" and not
"beer."  Or, so I am surmising.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 10:13:48 CDT
From: tony@spss.com (Tony Babinec)
Subject: pale ale vs ipa/what is bass ale?


Historically, India Pale Ale was a high-gravity, highly hopped,
pale (as opposed to brown) beer brewed to withstand the sea voyage
to British colonial outposts, where you can imagine that it, along
with gin, was a drink of choice.  Today, such a beer would be
called a barley wine.

While there are shadings of style rather than a sharp demarcation,
AHA style guidelines at least indicate:

       pale ale      india pale ale
SG   1.044 - 1.056   1.050 - 1.060
BU      20 - 40         40 - 60
color    4 - 11          8 - 14

Terry Foster's Pale Ale book suggests higher gravities, higher
hoppiness, and less crystal malt in the grain bill for IPAs.  Also,
as already pointed out in HBD, NO OAK CHIPS!  In actual commercial
usage, the above guidelines haven't been strictly followed.  Bass
Ale's label has changed repeatedly through the years, but as noted,
carries an IPA designation, while in fact it is a pale ale by the
above style descriptions.  A glance at CAMRA publications shows
that "IPA" has been used by certain breweries to refer to what are
actually bitters which are well below 1.050 in SG.

To emulate Bass Ale, follow the pale ale guidelines and use British
ingredients (malts or extracts, hops) and an appropriate ale yeast.
Anyone have a recipe that is a bass ale knockoff?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 13:00:58 EDT
From: gkushmer@Jade.Tufts.EDU
Subject: Homebrew Digest #990 (October 14, 1992)




>Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 15:55 EST
>From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023@NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA>
>Subject: Cranberry Ale?

>I just racked my first Christmas ale into a secondary and tasted it.
>Wonderfull stuff. Now I don't want to make a plain ale next time I brew.
>Since it was Thanksgiving this past weekend in Canada I had the idea of
>adding cranberrys to my next batch of beer.

>Q1..How much cranberry should I use? Do I crush them?

I made a cranberry beer using a little under 3 lbs of Ocean Spray
cranberries.  They were frozen in the fridge and I pureed them
right before adding them to the wort.  They were added right after I
turned the heat off and their semi-frozen state brought the boil
straight down.

Then after letting them steep for ten or so minutes, I threw in an
immersion wort chiller and took the temp down to 80F.

>Q2..Should I add a sweet berry to offset the sourness of the cranberries?

My cranberry ale came out to be light and tart.  It has a nice flavor
profile on its own.  Add it only if you want to change the flavor of the
end product to something sweeter, but try not to overpower the cranberry
flavor too much.

>Q3..Anyone with a recipe for an extract cranberry ale?

My notes are at home, but I took this as a variant of something I saw
in the Cats Meow II.

	5 lbs Light Malt Extract
	1 lb. sugar
	1 1/4 oz Fuggles (Boiling 30 min)
	3/4 oz Fuggles (Finishing 10 min)
	Irish Moss
	Gypsum
	Munton & Fison Dry Ale yeast

	3 lbs pureed frozen Cranberries

I got two cases out of it.  If you want the exact recipie, ask me on
email and I'll go drag out the notes.  BTW - I primed with brown sugar.


>Q4..Fruit are added at the end of the boil, steeped and transfered into the
primary. When I rack the beer to the secondary do I also transfer the fruit?

I had a strainer over the funnel hole and would let the wort drip through
it.  Then I would press it a bit with the ladling spoon and scoop it out
into a bowl.  This took a little while, and some of the wort was left
behind in the saturated cranberries (I used hop bags and grain sacks so that
there wasn't a lot of other stuff).  But I topped it off with some tap
water (gasp!) and got a nice two cases out of it.

Some of it was bound to get through though, and sometimes I find a cranberry
seed in the bottom of my beer.  I recommend you start NOW so that the
beer may age properly - this is something that gets better with age.

- --gk


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 12:55:17 EDT
From: Joe Rolfe <jdr@wang.com>
Subject: Calcium CLoride

hi all,

i have a question regarding Calcium Cloride and it's use as brewing water
treatments.

does anyone know of what the ppm/US gallon of Calcium and cloride
this would add??


thanx
joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 12:18 CDT
From: iepubj!korz@ihlpa.att.com
Subject: Starters revisited

As I've mentioned before, I've been away, so forgive this semi-late
post.  I'm all caught up now, so I should be back in-sync.

Micah writes:

> I feel that this question opens a whole can of worms as far as
>yeast propagation goes. While it might not hurt anything to put hops
>in the yeast starter it can serve little but to increase the cost of the
>process ( oh, it is possible that the hops can lower the ph enough to
>help, but its not a viable method of ph justment).

As I believe someone else mentioned, the hops are for antibacterial
purposes.  However, I don't use them.

>DME is very expensive and messy.

I'm reconsidering my technique (I'm thinking about using higher-gravity
starters, based upon what George and others have written), but I've been
using 1 ounce (weight) of light DME in 16 ounces of water, boiled 10
minutes, then cooled for my 1.020 starters.  At $9 for 3 pounds, that's
19 cents per 16 ounces of starter -- hardly expensive.  Perhaps it's more
humid by you -- that's the only reason I can think of it being messy, but
during my normal (Oct to June) brewing season, it's not humid enough to
make my DME cake-up if I keep in in a sealed plastic container.

>importantly proper carbohydrate sources. It is known that yeast can
>respire more effectively when exposed to some carbohydrate sources than
>others. Brewers yeast does the worst (as far as reproduction goes) on
>maltose and other mash derived complex sugars. It follows that the use
>of dry malt extract is not the best choice. Interestingly, brewers yeast
>respires best with sucrose, glucose and galactose, these occur in common
>sugar ( like from the grocery store). Also this type of sugar is not very
>pure and contains all sorts of excellent trace nutrients that the yeast
>like. This stuff is readily available in powdered form ( which mixes up
>more easily) and is very cheap.

Perhaps, but this conflicts directly with Noonan's claim that if yeast
is given a high-glucose environment, they shut down their maltose
(di- and tri- saccharide, I mean) metabolism pathways in lieu of (as you
said) the "easy sugars."  Noonan suggests that yeast raised in a high-glucose
environment will take some time to re-start their di- and tri-saccharide
pathways, resulting in longer lag times.

However, Bob Jones has reported *no increase in lag times* from switching
to sucrose starters and Micah gets 2 hour lag times (see below), so perhaps
this is an error in Noonan's book?

Then, in a followup post, Micah says:

>  So heres what I do to just build up a starter.
> I boil water and powdered sugar together with some yeast nutrient for

Ahhh... I wondered about this after your first post.  On the other
hand, as we know from Rob Bradley's post, not all yeast nutrients
are alike.  What kind of yeast nutrient do you use, Micah?

> about ten minutes, cool it and add the yeast, and shake well.
> The solution has approx 1020 gravity. Once a day i will "feed" the
> yeast some more sugar solution of successively greater concentrations
> to allow for dilution of additional liquid. From a yeast packet i can
> grow up to my pitch volume of 700mls dense slurry in three days with
> out a lot of excess liquid involved to dilute to wort. The yeast is
> grow at 80 F. I normally see 2 hour lag times with 15 gallon batches.
> Sanitation is important so be careful.

Given the fact that you use yeast nutrient, I willing to concede that
perhaps sucrose+nutrient is a viable alternative to malt extract for
starters.  In addition, you note that you add additional sugar with
successively higher concentrations, which is acclimating the yeast for
their plunge into higher gravity wort -- seeings how this increase in
gravity (and osmotic pressure) is gradual -- this may be the best
argument for this use.

As I see it, all that needs to be determined is if Noonan is right or
wrong (biologically, I mean, as there are already Micah's and Bob Jones'
empirical data points that Noonan has, at least, overstated it's importance)
about the increased lag time from yeast raised on glucose.  Perhaps Noonan was
not using nutrient and thus was creating weak yeast?  George's post on
the EBC's results seems to support the malt starter argument, but perhaps
they did not use nutrients with the non-malt starters either?  Mead-makers
have repeatedly reported problems with amino-acid-deficient ferments.

Personally, I think I will continue to use malt extract, but will try
incorporating Micah's "successively higher-gravity" procedure.

Al.

------------------------------

Date:    Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:52:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: GVEACH@cgi.com (GLENN O. VEACH)
Subject: Samual Smith Taddy Porter recipe

I am in search of malt extract recipes which best approximate
Samuel Smith Taddy Porter.  If you have one, please forward it
to me at gveach@cgi.com  I will be glad to collect the recipes
and post to HB.

Thanks...glenn veach = gveach@cgi.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 13:24 CDT
From: iepubj!korz@ihlpa.att.com
Subject: OOOPS!!!!

I wrote:
>As I believe someone else mentioned, the hops are for antibacterial
>purposes.  However, I don't use them.

I meant I don't use hops for my *STARTERS*.  I love hops almost as much
as a Pacific Northwesterner and use them liberally in my kettle AND
fermenters.

Al.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 14:34:40 EDT
From: William R Tschantz <wtschant@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Cranberry Mead

HI

My Brewpartner thought it would be nice totry to brew a crannberry mead, I
think that it would be to tart, but I told him I would ask those who are more
knowledgeable than me.  So has anyone out there ever brew a crannberry mead?
If so whats the recipe and what were the results.

Any help appreciated,  Bill
- --
|Bill Tschantz          |     How about a Homebrew?
|Chemistry Department   |     Support your Second Amendment rights!
|Ohio State University  |
|wtschant@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 16:16 EST
From: "Mark Cronenweth - cronen@vms.cis.pitt.edu" <CRONEN@vms.cis.pitt.edu>
Subject: Pressure cooker & Labels

I'm almost as excited about this, my first posting, as I am about tonight's
decisive NLCS playoff game.  What a great reason to have a homebrew!
First a question:  My neighbor just got hold of a 5-gallon pressure cooker.
We wanted to use it for brewing (extracts and specialty grains).  Has anyone
out there in network land ever brewed this way?  Do you reduce boiling time
due to higher temperatures?  What about adding hops, etc.  Will the higher
temps damage the "enzymes" in the malt or produce nasty by-products?  Any
help would be appreciated.
Also - I've been following the labeling debate & thought I'd mention my
variation.  I use small round "file markers" from the office supply store
to label each bottlecap.  They come in many colors, but I just use one until
the package is gone.  I simply number each batch in my "brewlog" and post a
chart on my refrigerator.  Each bottlecap has a number on it corresponding to
the batch.  A look at the bottlecap and a look at the chart tells me what
kind of beer I've just grabbed, and reminds me to close the fridge door.

Mark Cronenweth
LET'S GO BUC'S!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 14:34:23 -0600
From: Jon Binkley <binkley@beagle.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Malt Liqour Definitions

Jeff Mizener wrote:

>I noticed the following category in the GABF:
>
>	AMERICAN MALT LIQUOR
>	  Gold: Olde English 800 Malt Liquor, Pabst Brewing, Milwaukee.
>	  Silver: Silver Thunder Malt Liquor, Stroh Brewery Co., Detroit.
>	  Bronze: Colt 45 Malt Liquor, G. Heileman Brewing Co., La Crosse, Wis.
>
>What is this this stuff?  What makes a beer a malt liquor?

Malt Liquor is largely just a legal term.  Some states in the US
require any beer over 6% alcohol by volume to be called Malt Liquor.
Therefore you get some good imported beers, like barley wines, dopple
bocks, etc. getting labeled "Malt Liquor" just to satisfy varying state
laws.  You also get a class of boring American light lager which gets
called the same thing on purpose.  The above beers have little more
character than your typical Budweiser/Coors/Miller type beers.  They
just have more corn syrup added to the fermenter to give them more
alcohol.

As has been pointed out, the only reason GABF gives awards for this swill
is so they can stroke the big brewers who sponser the event.

Jon Binkley


------------------------------

Date:        Wed, 14 Oct 92 18:28:23 EST
From: AAAF000 <AAAF%CATCC.BITNET@VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU>
Subject: Mendocino

I was just wondering if anyone out there is familiar with the Mendocino
Brewing Company. I have spotted a few bottles of their product lately
and wonder if it is worth a purchase. If anyone knows anything please
post it.  MANGE BABY!!!!  nothing but cheese all of the time!  ---Rick
Smith/AAAF@CATCC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 13:10:46 EDT
From: mm@workgroup.com (Mike Mahler)
Subject: Glogg


	There's a place near where I live in Worcester, MA. called
	the Scandinavian Bakery and they sell Glogg base (what they
	say is used to make Glogg) in quart bottles.

	The phone number is 508.755.0474

	$4.40 for 25.44 ounces

	The basic scoop is you use equal portions of the base and vodka,
	some port wine and a seasonings	bag that has the raisins, orange
	peel, and other stuff in it.

	Give them a call if you're interested.  Tell them MahlerHund
	Breweries sent ya (the dog kennel that brews beer).  ;-)

	Michael


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:14 EST
From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023@NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA>
Subject: Hop substitutes?

Hello,

I have recently been informed that way back in the old days, 1700's or so,
that the plant species Myrica gale was used to bitter beer instead of hops.
Has anyone tried this and how much do I use.  It grows around any lake here
in NNorthern Ontario. Also, are there any other common plants that anyone
uses to bitter their beer instead of hops?  I've made tea with the Myrica
gale and I'm wondering if I should make a tea and then add it to the wort or
if I should just boil the dried leaves in the wort.

On the topic of hops. Where do I get rhizoids for growing my own hops?
What type should I use a 43 degrees N latitude?

Greg Pyle
(I don't have internet access as of yet)

Send replies to Carlo Fusco, g1400023@nickel.laurentian.ca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 21:30:21 PDT
From: engebret@steer.sdsu.edu (aguado e)
Subject: Who?

Don't mean to be nosey, but I saw this address in a post on Fidonet and thought
 I would investigate.

Is this a conference or a private address? ?

I just started homebrewing and wouldn't mind conversing about the hobby.


Regards,
Mark Engebretson
engebret@steer.sdsu.edu
engebret@ucsvax.sdsu.edu




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 21:15 CDT
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: GABF


 To: Homebrew Digest
 Fm: Jack Schmidling

 >From: wegeng.henr801c@xerox.com

 >> I note that Lowenbrau Dark took several medals and my first reaction is to
  >>conclude that the GABF must be a farce.

 >Lowenbrau Dark took exactly one medal: a Silver in the Dark Lager catagory.
 I assume that what you`re really trying to point out is that several
 catagories seemed to be dominated by the megabreweries.

 Not at all.  What I am pointing out is that, unless Miller changed the recipe
 since first introducing Lowerbrau Dark, the only way they could win a medal
 in the Dark Lager catagory is if it was the only dark lager entered.  It is
 pitiful at best.  It is nothing but caramel colored Miller.

 >  This is no accident - the characteristics of these catagories were
 designed to allow the megabreweries to win some medals.

 Dark Lager?  You gotta be kidding.  That is about as general as it can get.

 >Some people may cry `foul` for this.....

 Not me, I say farce.


js

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #991, 10/15/92
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Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing