HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: monsef@hal.com (Eric Monsef)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cabriolet info and assistance
Keywords: Re: Cabriolet info and assistance
Date: 22 Jul 92 04:21:20 GMT
Organization: HaL Computer Systems
NNTP-Posting-Host: warped.hal.com

Other stuff deleted:.......
______________________________________
> 5. Brake lights do not work, needs new switch.
This may be the adjustment.  Poke your head under the dash (you may need
to remove the panel under the dash--easy) to see the switch.  The switch
is easily replaced if you need one, but, again, I guess it's incorrectly
adjusted.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Again, I'm amazed at the problems you've had. 

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I am also amazed at the problems you've had.

I have found my girlfriend's '85 Cabriolet to be 
extremely reliable and foolproof.  She bought the car
with 80k miles on it two years ago and commutes 1/2 each
way each day to work (30 miles/day) in it and hasn't had 
a single major problem.

We did restitch the top which took about an hour.
I recommend a saddle/leather sewer which is basically
a sewing needle with a large handle at one end and
is available at any store that sells saddles
or other country-western type stuff (about a $3 tool-thread incl.).

From your posting it appears that you may have forgotten a few simple rules:

1.  Refrain if at all possible from parking the cab. out in direct sunlight
    for long periods of time -- cover it.

2.  Flush your radiator once a year.  This is especially important in cars
    that run as hot as yours likes to.

3.  Turn off the A/C a mile or so before you stop your car to prevent lots
    of condenstaion from happening.  It usually molds-especially in Florida-
    and then it smells and clogs the drainage system...yes that's where the
    water comes from when you park your car after having the A/C on.

4.  Don't downshift and your clutch will last you at least 75k miles;
    use your brakes, that's what they're for (there are exceptions 
    to this but for the most part it's true).

5.  COME ON!! FIND A NEW MECHANIC.  This sounds like a classic case of milking
    the motorist to me.

Good Luck!!
From: M13204@mwvm.mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Tranny oil
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:13:18 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102

My '82 Jetta has around 116k on it.  I've never changed the tranny oil in it
and I thought it might be time to do that.  RB says that it never needs to be
changed and so did the VW dealer I contacted.  But I believe that oil doesn't
last forever (except when you don't want it to :-) ).
 
From the letters, it seems that Redline GL-4 (75-80W) is the oil of choice.
I've been a staunch Castrol user for a number of years using their
engine oil and transmission gear lube in other cars.  Is Redline that much
better than Castrol or is this a case of apples and oranges (petro-oil as
opposed to synthetic) ?
From: gjh@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Galen J. Hekhuis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: A dealer to avoid???
Date: 30 Jul 92 01:27:06 GMT
Organization: University of Virginia Health Sciences Center

In article <16833F00A.JWEST@r3vm.dsd.trw.com> JWEST@r3vm.dsd.trw.com 
(Judson West) writes:
 
}When I lived in Burke, VA, I took my Rabbit to Stohlman VW. It was in and
}out of the service department, for problems that should have been fixed
}the first time, so much there was more grease in the car than under the hood.

I don't know if I should admit this, but I used to work at Stohlman's.
Knowing some of the people there, I don't doubt you had problems getting 
it fixed there.  And Stohlman's was one of the better dealerships...


--
       hang gliding mailing list: hang-gliding-request@virginia.edu 
     Galen Hekhuis  UVa Health Sci Ctr (804)982-1646 gjh@virginia.edu
  chinaware from China, indiaware from India, and underwear from down under
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: Re: bugs in the snow?
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 92 15:14:02 GMT


Jyri-


Go for a bug!  In our harsh northern Cleveland winter, I find myself
taking unplowed back streets to work, just to marvel at the traction!
Putting the engine in the back over the drive wheels was a great
snow-eating idea.  And don't forget, the car was designed in Germany
where the winters are pretty tough.  Just make sure the car has decent
tires and solid heat exchangers and you'll be fine.

Bill (still missing his bug... :-( 
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Fox in Europe?
Date: 21 Jul 92 13:38:46 GMT
Reply-To: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk (C Wong)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.

In article <rl.711677581@cgl.ucsf.edu> rl@socrates.ucsf.edu (Robert Langridge) writes:
>Is there an equivalent to the VW Fox in Europe, either from VW or from 
>Seat, and if so what is its designation? (Fox?)  If there is such an 
>equivalent, could someone tell me the price range and applicable taxes 
>of these delivered in Germany or in Greece (I have a family reason for 
>the latter question).
>
>
>Bob Langridge			       Phone: +1 415 476-2630, -1540, -5128
>Computer Graphics Laboratory		               FAX: +1 415 476-0688 
>926 Medical Sciences
>University of California	                    E-Mail: rl@cgl.ucsf.edu
>San Francisco  CA  94143-0446 

hi,
The VW Fox is called the Polo in Europe; AFAIK the import duty on cars is well  over 50%, (it used to be 100%+) in Greece. So don't buy it in Greece. Belgium,
Holland and other Northern European countries have a much less draconian tax
levy on cars, they are also *much* cheaper !

If you intend running the car in Greece, then it is possible to do so at 12
months at a time, then take it out of the country, reimport it OR sell it to
another member of your family !! (all this is from memory whilst speaking to
a few Greek friends whilst we were drinking, so the exact details might not
be accurate, but the majority of it is ok :-)

regards

Chun
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wanderer@camelot.bradley.edu (Kevin Murphy)
Subject: I need some welkding done
Organization: Bradley University
Date: 22 Jul 92 03:59:53 GMT


Ok... So I have my 71 beetle apart now.... There is some welding that must 
be done.  there is still metal ledft, but I need new material on that panel where the running bnoard is bolted on.

Should I put a peice of metal on there and weld or get the VW part?
.
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Date: 31 Jul 92 17:46:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

In article <1992Jul31.035441.11172@bohemia.metronet.org>,
kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein) writes:

>Please note. I have experimented quite a bit on my G60 with tire pressure. 
>44 pounds in the frount will improve handling, but your will get very bad
>tire wear (the centers will wear ll wear befor the rest of thetire. )It's
>your choice!

I can confirm this. I recently replaced the original Continental's on my
'90 G60 at around 45k miles. I kept the pressures pretty close to what the
recommendations said on the door panel (41/36). The front tires were practically
bald in the center. On my new tires, I've been setting them at around 38/34.

Eliot, if your looking for some inexpensive replacement tires, I can recommend
the Falken FK05G (195/50VR15). They seem to be a great all around tire so far
(after about 3k miles. I got them at my local NTW for about $100 each mounted
and balanced. They were the cheapest I could find and I haven't regretted the
choice.

-Jeff

p.s. Aren't the BBS wheels on the '91 G60's 15" X 6.5" as opposed to the 
15" X 7" 5 bolts on the VR6 (and 15" X 6" on the '90s) ?

p.p.s. I just got back from vacation in the UK and saw a few of the A3 bodied
Golfs. They look pretty neat but I didn't get to study one up close.

-- 
==========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision, 14 Crosby Dr., Bedford, MA 
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee
From: snguyen@orion.oac.uci.edu (Son Nguyen)
Subject: GTI Wolfburg info wanted
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 21 Jul 92 15:38:32 GMT
Distribution: usa

I recently sold my 88 GTI hoping to get a GLI because I needed 4 doors.
But now I no longer need 4 doors so I'm looking to replace my GTI and
I'm considering a used 90 GTI Wolfsburg edition.
What's a GTI Wolfburg.  I was told that they only offered that model
in 90 GTI, is that true?  what's the difference between the regular
GTI and Wolfsburg?  how much did it go for?... how come it doesn't
come with the trip computer like my 88?  was it an option?  Any info
will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Son Nguyen
snguyen@orion.oac.uci.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mini11@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (mark.kearney)
Subject: Vanishing Coolant 87 8v GTI
Keywords: problem found
          
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 19:00:56 GMT

Back in June I posted a message looking for suggestions to where
my coolant was disappearing to. I received many responses and
followed up on all of them.

One suggestion was to take a compression test to determine if
the head gasket was bad. Following the procedures in the shop
manual I found that cylinder #3 was down 50 lbs. compared to 
the others. So figuring I had found the cause of my problem I
called around for prices to have the gasket replaced.

The shops I talked to were very close in price. The difference
was in warranty duration. Ranging from 3 months/3,000 miles to
12 months/12,000 miles. The shop that offered the longest warranty
was the VW dealer I purchased the car from, Shewsbury Motors.

I made an appointment thinking my problem was finally going
to be fixed. The day I dropped of the car I explained the problem
I was having to the Service Manager and asked him to verify the
compression before perfoming the gasket replacement. Later that
day I called to check on the car and was told the compression was
even and they performed a pressure test. Everything looked good
as far as they could see.

I couldn't believe it. I was at the end of my rope. The last
suggestion that I hadn't done was to check for traces of hydro
carbons in the coolant reservoir (why the dealer didn't do this
I can't figure out). Took the car to the local gas station that
does emmission testing and what do you know 55 ppm Hc reading in the
reservoir!!!!! I had them check the exhaust and it was only 6 ppm!

This week I had the head gasket replaced by the garage that helped
me out. The only have a 6 months/6,000 mile warranty, but they were
very helpful and had experience working on water cooled VW's. 

Considering I've been working on fixing this problem for three
months I'm glad it has been taken care of finally. Thanks again
for your input.

Mark 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: Re: bus engine
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 13:32:47 GMT


Hey now!

>I am currently rebuilding a 76 kombi bus, or should i say...

Don't be frazzled!  Just keep at it slow and sure and you'll figure
it all out!  If you aren't using the Idiot manual, I'd recommend it as
it helped me immensely through my first rebuild.

That said, on to more substantive issues.
>Both heads have cracks at the exaust valves...

Get new ones.  A shop could probably weld yours up, but it would end up
costing close to what you'd pay for new ones (especially if you have the
valves ground too, which you should.)  New heads will make your new
engine last a lot longer.

>the #3 piston was severely burned, some of the cam bearings were torn...

Sounds like you should look around for one of those "package deal" rebuild
kits that comes with pistons, jugs, rod, bearings, valves etc.  And you
should probably have the two halves of your case looked at by a good VW
machinist.

>tin, heat exchangers, fuel injection system...

The tin I would clean up and give it all a coat of Krylon high-temp paint
so that it looks nice when it goes back in.  Putting back together won't
be hard, just time consuming.  I hope your heater boxes are in good shape
because new ones for this engine run upwards of $200 each!  Yikes!  As far
as the FI goes, I am saving up my nickles and dimes to rip out the FI in
my '77 this fall and put on a Weber dual barrel.  These come in FI conversion
kits for around $200-250.  My FI has already cost me twice that to have
it fixed ONCE.  If you're like me, you'll feel alot more comfortable
driving around without worrying about the FI going out and being stranded
somewhere trying to trace down shorted wires or bad injectors.  Plus, the
carb will be a whole lot easier to put back on your new engine when you're
done with the rebuild.

Lastly, a warning. Parts for these late model busses (type IV engines) are
NOT CHEAP.  But it is a strong engine when it's running well, so a quality
rebuild will be worth it.

Have fun, and don't get frazzled!
Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: More '86 GTI questions
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:22:38 GMT
Reply-To: C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk (C Wong)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.

>Finally, the front grill on our car was replaced at some point in it's past
>with a grill lacking the little "GTI" letters.  Can anyone tell me if the
>letters are molded into their grill, or are a separate piece that can be
>attached to the normal grill?

the GTI badges are available separately, they clip on to the grill.

>
>Speaking of grills, when I went to Italy a couple of years ago all of the GTIs
>that I saw had a different grill with round headlights and what appeared to
>be a pair of round driving lights.  I've seen a few of these in the States
>also, but the vast majority have had the rectangular "flush" headlamps (mine
>included).  Were GTIs sold with the round headlights in the U.S., or have
>some people substituted the European grill and headlights on their cars?
>
>Thanks in advance for any way in which you can enlighten me.
>
>| Andre Molyneux   KA7WVV     "Insert your favorite disclaimer here"       |

there are many styles of grilles available (in Europe at least), the rectangular
ones you describe are normally fitted to the VW Jetta (Golf+boot) in Europe,
the round headlights are usually fitted to Golfs. The GTI, GTI16v, GTD and
Golf Driver are fitted with 4 lights, e.g. 2 regular and 2 driving lights.
There were also some cars which were fitted with fog lights in place of the
driving lights. IMO, the round lights give a better light distribution,
especially if you bypass the heavy current via a relay(s) - there is usually
a 1-3v drop at the switch which gets worse as the car gets older.

If you intend to change the lights on you car; it involves fitting a different
headlight mounting as well as changing the grille.

There are also many styles of (non-VW) grilles as well.

regards

Chun

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Loughborough University, U.K.                               C.Wong1@lut.ac.uk
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Good price for '92 VR6, '90 60 Corrado
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 03:54:10 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.213749.4181@odin.corp.sgi.com> lkvarda@sgi.com (Lisa Kvarda) writes:
>I have the problem in my G60.  I start the car with the clutch depressed,
>and it won't always go into reverse.  Sometimes if I try a few times
>with the clutch still depressed, it'll go in, other times I don't.
>I do the same as above.... release the clutch, depress the clutch,
>wait for a few seconds, and then it goes in right away.

The trick is: shift into 1st, then pull out and it will go into
reverse right away, no hassle.  Our G60 is like that too and the trick
works everytime.  


eliot
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Bumper sticker
From: BOB VEACH <RBXRFV@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 17:52:51 EDT
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company




   DITTO


Bob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 20:14:15 GMT

In article <Jul27.190547.20878@engr.washington.edu> eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>In article <1992Jul27.153246.4492@ee.rochester.edu> Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu> writes:
>>IMHO, 44/39 is *WAY* too high for a Corrado.  The only thing you gain from
>>such high pressure is fuel mileage...  I would think that your handling,
>>tire wear, and ride would be truly awful.  Something in the range of 32/28
>>to perhaps 35/30 would be more appropriate.

>But the sticker inside the door says 41/38 for full load.  (I might be
>off by 1 or 2 psi, but I'm pretty sure the front is > 40).  This is for a
>G60 that comes with P600s.  I will get the "normal" inflation pressure
>numbers tonight.  I think I've got mine at 42/38 right now.

Actually, VW just released a service bul that says that 90 G60s should
be set at 41/36. Your 42/38 is pretty good then...


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Corrado wheels
Organization: clearer than blir
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 19:51:10 GMT

In article <45906@shamash.cdc.com> jeff@svl.cdc.com (Jeff Needham) writes:
>The tire splitting controversy partially revolves around VW underestimating
>the weight of the car to Pirelli and Continental.  195/50s are too small
>for the car.

the original corrado that was released to the european press "only"
had 185/55's. a la jetta gli.  i think the european ones may still be
at this width.  (but then they probably have a lot less weight too) i
will go ask the dealer today what i should use.  jan says that there
will be a handling penalty if i go to 205/50 w/o changing the wheels.
any other options?  i don't intend to blow a lot of money on this
car.. i'm pretty pleased with its handling right now and i don't find
its ride particularly punishing.. the stiff dampers are wonderful.


eliot

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: brophy@med.unc.edu (J. Jon Brophy)
Subject: Re: A dealer to avoid???
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 20:28:02 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.183135.21304@infonode.ingr.com> jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com writes:
>In article <1992Jul29.154522.9733@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>, tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) writes:
>> In <c4vR02Af1bQX01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> dld80@ccc.amdahl.com (Don Dusza) writes:
>> 
>> [dealer troubles]
>> 
>> 
>> If there's one thing that would make me decide against
>> buying a VW, it's the poor dealer service.  Is this a universal thing?
>> 
>
>Nope. Ed Carroll VW, Porsche, Mitsubishi here in Fort Collins, CO is an
>excellent dealership to deal with. There parts people are top notch and very
>knowledgeable. I have yet to bring either my Wabbit or Vanagone (sp) in for
>them to service in eight years but have always been able to get technical
>assistance and advice from their service department.
Well now there is one positive and a negative vote, but you see  the above
person never actually used the dealership to service the car.. just parts
no labor... hmmmm never dealt with the servicei writerve

I have gone to both slimey dealer in the Research triangle park areas...
and one put a flat on my tire and asked me to try getting the warranty
of the tire from Michelin ( no dice they did it along with wheel well
damage, they pay) and the other has told me my cold start problem is 
due to faulty gas and I have carbon build up.... even though I run
BP or Texaco or Amaco medium grade  or high test.. so they want
several hundred to 'fix' the problem by grinding the valves....

The problem is if the dealer wants the customer screwed.. shouldn't
they at least send flowers and take me to a movie first?

Jon
brophy@bme.unc.edu
From: andrem@pyrman2.mis.pyramid.com (Andre Molyneux)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: A dealer to avoid???
Date: 29 Jul 92 22:26:14 GMT
Distribution: ba
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

I've got an '86 GTI which needs to go in for the heater core replacement
recall.  I was going to take in to Antonio VW since it's the closest one
to where I live.  However, since it sounds that at least one other netter
has had problems with service at this dealership, I'd like to know if anyone
else has good or bad experiences with the various South Bay dealer service
departments.

Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Andre Molyneux   KA7WVV     "Insert your favorite disclaimer here"       |
+-----------------------------------------+--------------------------------+
|      -=-------- PYRAMID TECHNOLOGY CORP |Internet:                       |
|    ---===------ 3860 N. First Street    |  andrem@pyramid.com            |
|  -----=====---- San Jose, CA 95134      |Packet:                         |
|-------=======-- (408) 428-8229          |  ka7wvv@n0ary.#nocal.ca.usa.na |
+-----------------------------------------+--------------------------------+
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Correct Rabbit Oil Pressure???
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:05:39 GMT
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


>Pressure gauges are not well known for their accuracy. If you want the final
>word on the subject, take it to the dealer and have them hook up one of their
>gauges. 

Is it an electrical or mechanical guage?  I agree that electrical guages are not
always accurate, but mechanical ones are (or at least 99%).  The problem could
be caused by a stuck pressure valve in the oil filter.  We had this happen once
in my rally car ('83 GTI) while on a stage and figured too high a pressure
was better than too low.  The guage stayed pegged at 100+psi for a few miles
and then dropped back down to normal and we've never seen the problem again.

As suggested a stop by the dealer for a quick test will show if the guage is
wrong or the pressure is too high.

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car