HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Scan Tool chips.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 19:21:27 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 16 14:21:23
X-Sequence: 3047
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

                          SUBJECT:  Scan Tool chips.
Well, I got adventurous last night and cracked the OTC cartridge open
(carefully!) to see what is inside. My objective is to be able to customize the
software for the scan tool and/or do my own updates.

Anyway, it was pretty much what I expected ... an EPROM surface mounted on a
little PC board.  The EPROM is an Intel with the numbers "D27011-250V05" on the
chip.  Looks like a standard EPROM.  Although I'm not familiar with the 27011,
I assume that it is in the same family as the 2732, 2764, 27512, etc.  The only
thing is, I can't find a description of the 27011 ... I found 27010 (131,072x8
1024K), but no 27011.  Can anyone give me a run down and where they can be
found?

I think my EPROM burner will probably read it.  The problem is the surface
mount aspect.  There are two other tiny little ICs on the boards (74HCT573 and
HCT00 both about twenty cents in the Jameco catalog).  I assume they are simple
little OR gates or something?

Here are my options for reading/writing the chip on the EPROM burner:

1. Use an edge connector that I can plug the cartridge into and wire the
connector to a series of pins that will plug into the ZIF socket on the burner.

2.  Use a chip test clip and clip it onto the chip and then wire the clip wires
to pins that plug into the EPROM burner.

3.  Desolder the EPROM and hope that I don't zap it in the process.

4.  Duplicate the little PC board in the cartridge.  Use Option 1 to read the
chip and then burn the software onto the chip and install it on my PC board.  I
would also like to use a ZIP socket to make it easier to play with the
software.  The PC board is a two sided affair, but I bet I can do the same
thing (maybe not as neatly or as compactly, but probably in a workable
fashion).

Option 1 is the most attractive (assuming it will work).  Then I could read a
chip and then reburn it ... possibly with custom software, or modify the
existing software, or even update the chip to later versions without any major
fabrication work.  The biggest question is ... do the little ICs affect
reburning the chip?  I'm pretty sure I can read it without any problem using
option 1, but then can I reburn it?  Looking for hardware experts here, since
I'm basically a software weenie who dabbles in the world of hardware!

-- Ken Mosher
-- Buick Grand National:  A *BOOST* of Buick Performance

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" <emory!imd.sterling.com!Ken_Mosher>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Drag racer built on a truck frame?
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 02:57:33 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Dec 14 21:57:13
X-Sequence: 3029
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


I came up with an idea last night that I would like to bounce around for
a while, at least until someone tells me this is a bonehead idea and
is not even worth considering.

What are the possibilities of using an older truck frame (74' Ford F100)
as a foundation for a drag strip vehicle or general street rod vehicle.
Say something with a fiberglass body found on "kit" cars.  It seems most
of the drive train could be used with some modifications and that the 
leaf springs in the rear could easily be replaced with ladder bars and
coils springs (saving the need to buy a whole new rear clip needed to 
build my Mustang).  Add a few more suspension and steering modifications
and the end result would be a chassis that resembles those commonly used
to build street rods (correct me if I'm wrong and I'm sure there is a flaw
in here somewhere). 

Is this concept the least bit viable?

Would this frame be too long, too wide, too heavy or both?

What kind of car body would fit on it?  I'd consider a fiberglass body like
Harwood and a few others supply for drag racing applications.

I'm not looking to be a serious contender at the strip but would like to build
something halfway respectable that would get me into bracket racing rather
cheaply and still be a fun ride.  Racing the family sedan does not fit my
desires.  The power would come from a 429 which would be built as best as
the budget will allow.


----------
Posted by: emory!falab1.b21.ingr.com!brantley (Dwight Brantley)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Carb
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 06:14:07 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Saturday, Dec 12 01:13:46
X-Sequence: 3015
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


>-> In my book, it's better than any Holly fuel-leaker I've ever had,
>-> and it gives a properly running Q-jet a run for it's money.

> I never had anything against the Quadrajets, other than complete lack
>of parts (my local Chevy and Olds dealers told me there's no way to
>simply order, say, a .050 main jet from GM - you have to know the
>year/model and options of the particular car the carb came from, and
>then order a jet for that.)  On the other hand, I recently came across a
>chart of GM part numbers cross-referenced to jet and needle sizes...
>                       

HP books had a good one about Rochester carbs. Mines in storage, anybody
got a title/author? Anyway, lots of this type of info.

Jim Davies

----------
Posted by: emory!fraser.sfu.ca!jimd (Jim Davies)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Carb
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 08:55:45 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 16 03:55:20
X-Sequence: 3042
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>>Date: 02 Dec 1992 14:10 -0500 (EST)
>>From: hotrod@Dixie.COM (The Hotrod List)
>>
>>Derek,
>>  How's the economy of the Edelbrock compared with a Holley?  My main objective
>>is an economic four-barrel.  I have heard that Edelbrocks were kind of like 
>>this.  Thanks.
>>Tom McClendon
>>gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu
>>

>If you want economical, go with a Thermoquad.  The teeny primaries allow for
>economy, while the huge secondaries allow lots of flow, and are under vacuum
>control to keep from bogging.
To make a general statement about carbs *my opinion, based on experience*:
its tough to beat a well setup Holley 4bbl for fuel economy and response.
Most performance aftermarket Hollies are jetted RICH as recieved. I seem
to remember going up to 10 sizes leaner to get optimum mixtures with some
of these things. And, they love to leak. And warp, if you overtighten the
bowl screws. Etc. Carter AFBs are sure nicer to work on ;-) Have known 
some nice ones ;-) T-quads are sexy looking but more awkward to work on.
Have never been super-happy with their performance, but this might be
partly to do with the '70s stuff that used them. I prefer the Rochester
Ugly-jet, at least the earlier ones. Best floatbowl design for 4x4s.

Jim Davies

e

----------
Posted by: emory!fraser.sfu.ca!jimd (Jim Davies)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Software Simulation Programs 
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 18:25:28 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Dec 15 13:25:22
X-Sequence: 3034
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

In article <qv7q##n@dixie.com> you write:
>
>	I am looking for recommendations/alternatives to a software package
>called "Quarter Jr.". This software package allows you to plug in numbers
>for tire size, Gear Selection, Aerodynamics, H.P., and a variety of other
>factors relating to your car to determine a speed/time/distance output for 
>drag racing. Cost is around $100.00.  
>
>	Anyone use any of the "neat" software out there for set-up of a
>race car/motor? Care to share your experiances (good or bad)? 
>	

I've used a program called CamQuest, available from Competition Cams for 
$9.95 + shipping. Runs on an IBM PC. Pretty good little program for
doing typical race math. Hey, for $9.95 I'd pay to watch a ...
[posting interrupted]


----------
Posted by: emory!sierra.com!vcook (Victor Cook)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Oxygenated fuel.
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 04:13:48 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 16 23:13:38
X-Sequence: 3057
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


-> you buy a gallon of oxygenated fuel.  Poor running is the result of
-> leanness.  Closed loop systems should handle it.  Open loop FI
-> and carbs need tweaking.  JGD]

 Unfortunately, many '70s-'80s cars and motorcycles are already too lean
to run properly in the first place, particularly at idle.  The moose
urine they sell as "oxygenated gasoline" aggravates the condition.

[Minor details. The EPA wants you to know they don't care :-) JGD]

Typically, the car just dies when you let your foot off the accelerator.
Surging at speed and hard starting are also common.  Both our Mazdas and
my wife's CH650 exhibit this problem.

 Tweak?  There aren't any tweaks.  The bike's carbs don't have any
provision for it; the little Nikki 4 barrel on the RX is already as rich
as it can go.

[Sorry, I forget that my idea of a tweak is a bit different than others.
As long as I have my gas jet reamers, fixed jets are only a minor 
inconvenience.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Frames
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 18:43:55 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Dec 15 13:43:51
X-Sequence: 3036
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


 I think a truck frame will be heavier than needed and possibly not rigid
enough. Truck frames (pickups) are built to bear a vertical load and are
(from the couple types I've seen) typically C-channel with little or no
intermediate bracing. This is fine for lugging a bed full of stuff. It
doesn't do much to prevent the back end twisting relative to the front
when you're applying a bunch of torque. There'd have to be some sort of
additional bracing members added to make the frame resist torque twist.

 In addition, the suspensions on trucks are not reknowned for refined
handling characteristics. Finally, I think you'd want to either move
the engine back or get a very short frame to counter the bad weight
offset and definitely get away from 2-piece driveshafts.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Early Nova V-8's
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 06:29:44 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Sunday, Dec 13 01:29:39
X-Sequence: 3023
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


-> The question I have is about the oil pump/pan combo unique to Chevy
-> II's. (V-8's). For V-8's, the sump is in the front, pump has a long
-> pickup tube. I saw an aftermarket set from Moroso in the Summit
-> catalog that appears to be a standard rear sump design. Is this true?
-> Summit guy didn't know.

 I think it's a generic picture.  There are rear sump Chevy II pans, but
they usually have a tube running through them for the tierod to go
through.


-> The reason for my concern is that I had to ground a big channel in
-> the stock (made for a 327) pump to get the #8 rod of the 400 to
-> clear. I'm not sure how much more material is left under the channel.

 I've never heard *that* one before.  Other than the length of the rotor
housing, I've never seen a difference in Chevy pumps.  If you decide to
replace the pump, I'll buy it from you just for the curio value.

 You might be able to use a pair of spring-loaded calipers to check the
thickness.  Unless it's in a heavily loaded area you're probably OK,
though.  The pump housings are usually pretty thick.


-> I also don't like all
-> of the oil being at the front of the pan when I hit the loud pedal
-> (afraid the intake of the pump will become dry).

 As long as you have a baffle in the pan, it's OK.  Millions of Fords
and (ahem) Chevy IIs have no problem with front sump pans while drag
racing.


-> Speaking of wheels, does anybody know how to figure out the largest
-> wheel/tire I can use?

 Jack it up, look at how much space the rear wheels have between the
inner and outer fenderwells, and order rims with the proper backspacing
to clear the inners by 3/4 inch and the outer wells by 1 inch.  In
front, turn the wheels lock to lock and check inner and outer clearance.
Check BOTH sides - they're usually different (rear too!)

 Order wheels by BACKSPACE.  This often confuses the rim makers, who
like to use offsets.  Not only that, but the majority of wider wheels
are made with positive offset.  Generally, you want negative offset
unless you love tin snips.

 If you insist on cramming maximum rubber under the car without hitting
anything, you'll probably need different wheels front and back, like
many late models use.  Furthermore, there almost certainly won't be any
cast wheels which will fit.  You'll be looking for modulars or
truck-type steelies.  If you become stubborn about finding wheels that
FIT, you'll have to take whatever styles are available.
                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Early Nova V-8's
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 23:23:09 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Dec 11 18:23:03
X-Sequence: 3012
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

> 
>       My son and I are in the middle of installing a 350 into his
> little chop-top black 63 Nova SS.  We went the Miladon route with the
> rear sump pan and the extended oil pump pickup.  We had the chance to
> -- 
>  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> |"Nobody ever fights for the slow lane!"     Gary L. Berry
> |                                            glb@s1.gov
>  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Chopped and lowered...bitchin' indeed!  With a '63 you can run with the
Kustom Kemps or the Pro street crowd.

That top chop must have been a bear. Did you chop at the top of the top
or the bottom of the top? (Does that make sense?) 

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia <emory!immacc.prepnet.com!indy>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Extrudehone price list
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 06:20:19 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Sunday, Dec 13 01:20:14
X-Sequence: 3022
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


-> [I asked that question of the salesdroid at the PRI show.  They use a
-> rubber-lined, hydraulically driven cylinder that appears
-> to hold several gallons of goop from looking at the pictures in the
-> advertising literature.  JGD]

 Hah.  That's probably a plain old hydroforming setup adapted over.
      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re:  tri-y headers
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 06:48:30 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Sunday, Dec 13 01:48:21
X-Sequence: 3025
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


-> I would be interested in the details of how to determine the best
-> location for, and the size of, the crossover pipe.  Would
-> someoneplease re-post

 It's cut-and-try according to the stuff I have.  Like the routine of
setting collector length by looking at the shock wave ring, then lopping
off the collector there.  Unfortunately, another ring will form further
up the collector, and if you keep shortening you'll eventually wind up
at the cylinder head.
                                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: EPA address
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 03:20:24 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Dec 16 22:20:08
X-Sequence: 3052
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


 I need the address to the EPA's automotive regulation division.  I had
it around somewhere, but all the paperwork I can find is on the
letterhead of their lab in Michigan, with no address.

 Would some kind soul look in their Federal directory or notes and give
me the address?
                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: No Subject Line
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 10:45:39 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Dec 18 05:45:33
X-Sequence: 3064
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

Hi there!

I fly model airplanes and we like to run lots of nitro. Is there
any source less than $35 a gallon?

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !

[$35 a gallon is not bad for small quantity.  Nitro was selling off the
back of the fuel truck at the Southern Nationals this year for
$1400 per 55 gal drum.  That works out to $25.45 per gallon.  I'd
not consider buying a drum unless you expect to be able to use it
fairly rapidly.  Nitro has a tendency to become unstable.  At best,
you throw it away.  At worst, well imagine 55 gals of explosive..  JGD]
----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Oxygenated fuel.
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 18:52:30 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Dec 17 13:52:25
X-Sequence: 3059
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

> 	There is some talk on the F-body mailing list about running  
> the oxygenated fuels.

> Other symptoms are  
> harder starts in the morning, runs shitty until the motor warms up,  
> loss of top end power, and as mentioned already, it feels like I have  
> less power and the motor is more temperamental.

Around here (NY) they don't switch to the oxygenated fuels until
winter, so you have to take the cold weather into account also.  My
fuel mileage has dropped about 10% lately, I assume due to colder
weather and oxygenated fuels.

> [All oxygenated fuels do is lean the mixture a bit carrying some of
  ...
> leanness.  Closed loop systems should handle it.  Open loop FI
> and carbs need tweaking.  JGD]
> ----------

Does this mean that when my FI system goes into open loop on full
acceleration, it's running leaner?

[yup JGD]

--
Joseph P. Cernada	AIT, Inc.
914/347-6860		50 Executive Blvd.
cernada@ait.com		Elmsford, New York 10523

----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Carb
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 06:00:44 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Saturday, Dec 12 01:00:15
X-Sequence: 3014
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>>Date: 02 Dec 1992 14:10 -0500 (EST)
>>From: hotrod@Dixie.COM (The Hotrod List)
>>
>>Derek,
>>  How's the economy of the Edelbrock compared with a Holley?  My main objective
>>is an economic four-barrel.  I have heard that Edelbrocks were kind of like 
>>this.  Thanks.
>>Tom McClendon
>>gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu
>>

>If you want economical, go with a Thermoquad.  The teeny primaries allow for
>economy, while the huge secondaries allow lots of flow, and are under vacuum
>control to keep from bogging.
To make a general statement about carbs *my opinion, based on experience*:
its tough to beat a well setup Holley 4bbl for fuel economy and response.
Most performance aftermarket Hollies are jetted RICH as recieved. I seem
to remember going up to 10 sizes leaner to get optimum mixtures with some
of these things. And, they love to leak. And warp, if you overtighten the
bowl screws. Etc. Carter AFBs are sure nicer to work on ;-) Have known 
some nice ones ;-) T-quads are sexy looking but more awkward to work on.
Have never been super-happy with their performance, but this might be
partly to do with the '70s stuff that used them. I prefer the Rochester
Ugly-jet, at least the earlier ones. Best floatbowl design for 4x4s.

Jim Davies

e

----------
Posted by: emory!fraser.sfu.ca!jimd (Jim Davies)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod