HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Fill Flash Technique Question
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 18:33:21 GMT

There has been a good discussion on OTF TTL flash. I gained a lot of 
information.

Since OTF sensor reads the intensity of the incoming light, fill flash
may not work properly when shooting back lit portraits. How do you solve
this problem?

It appears that you can play with the ISO setting to increase the flash
intensity. But you don't really know whether the compensation is close
enough. Are there some general guidelines in dealing with the situation?

Jason Chen
From: rwyble@schunix.uucp (Richard J. Wyble)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Lecia camera features (Leica wannabe)
Date: 11 Jan 93 03:54:11 GMT
Organization: SCHUNIX Public Access Unix for Worcester County, MA, USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

yen@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Tony Yen) writes:
:
: Let there be no mystery about Leica cameras and lenses. Yes, they are well
: made. However, Nikon and Canon lenses are every bit as good as Leica lenses
: nowadays. As far as I'm concerned, the only cameras Leica needs to make are
: the range-finder M6's and they should make them auto-focus.
: Leica no longer holds the lead in optics design as it did before WWII. 
: The Japanese do.
: 

Impressionistic, but questionable for distribution. Please state your
facts for the edification of all.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 rwyble@schunix.uucp                         Richard J. Wyble
 schunix!rwyble@transfer.stratus.com         Worcester, Massachusetts
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: backpacking with medium format cameras
Date: 7 Jan 93 13:04:47 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com

In article 37805@sophia.inria.fr, luong@naxos.inria.fr (Quang-Tuan Luong) writes:
>Hi,
>
>I am wondering if anyone often carries a medium format camera while
>doing mountain hikes. If yes, what models do you use, and what is the
>approximate weight ?
>
>Tuan.


Yes, but I travel light.  Either a Fuji GS645 folder (what, a couple pounds?),
or an old Rolleiflex TLR.  The farther and longer you go, the more room and
the heavier a more complete outfit (w/ interchangeable lens) gets/

	Dave
From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Some very BASIC questions.
Date: 6 Jan 93 18:44:44 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com

>>* What does "b = M&C, f=M" mean when referring to Material of Body, for cameras
>>* What does the term Depth Field Preview mean ?

>M=Metal.  C="Composite" (usually polycarbonate)


For that matter, in Photographese, polycarbonate is a way to avoid saying
simply "plastic."  Besides, plastic bodies have a long history in photography-
weren't the first Kodak cameras, back in the 1880's, made out of Bakelite?

	Dave
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Black and White Photography - Can I do it?
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:22:14 GMT

In article <1if07cINN38u@fido.asd.sgi.com>, davis@bedlam.asd.sgi.com (Tom Davis) writes:
In reply to someone from nwu.edu who's post hasn't got here yet...
...
> If you really need B&W "prints in an hour", you may
> have to go to a pro lab and pay extra $$$.  Or you
> can set up a darkroom and do it yourself -- B&W is
> pretty easy.
> 

I have a 10 yr old who now does all his own B&W, ( well his loading of
Pattersons leaves a little to be desired :-( ), and an 8 yr old girl who
is one step behind.

> If you require instant gratification, consider using
> Ilford XP2 film.  It makes B&W negatives, but is
> processed using the standard C41 process that's used
> for color print film, and hence can be processed at
> the "prints in an hour" places.

See if you can find a better class of 1hr place. They DO exist, usualy
run by a pro photographer who like eating etc :-). Ask if they can print
onto Ektamax, an XP like paper Kodak has just released. It goes through
RA-4 paper chemistry, so a miniprinter will handle it fine.

But you miss all the fun that way...

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@labtam.labtam.oz.au (Robert Groom)
Subject: Re: EOS 630, still good?
Organization: Labtam Australia Pty. Ltd., Melbourne, Australia
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 22:15:16 GMT

Luis Abdon Cifuentes <lc0v+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:


>A local store is liquidating the 630 at $210. Is the 630 still a good
>second body?  Have EOS cameras improved much since? How does it compares
>to the ELAN for example?

I use a 630 as a second body to my EOS 1.  Although it lacks some of the
features of the newer models it is much more robust - more metal and
less plastic in important places.  The Elan in particular has a lot more
plastic (like film rails, etc) to reduce the noise level.

I should point out that I mainly use the 630 with the EF80-200 f/2.8L
lens and this particular combination works extremely well - very fast
and accurate focusing (about the same as the EOS 1 with USM EF28-80L).
It should be similar with the newer USM lenses too.

My main gripe about the 630 is the fiddly manual mode - I rarely use it
these days and usually just go with shutter or aperture priority.
Actually the manual mode on any camera *except the EOS 1* is too fiddly. :-)

>I am about to switch to EOS from Nikon, and this seems like a good
>opportunity to get a second body.  Thanks  in advance

Yes, this _is_ an excellent opportunity - grab a 630 while you still can.
By the way, you are not alone in switching to EOS from Nikon - many pros,
especially sports types, are doing the same.  What are *your* reasons?

>Luis
-- 
Robert Q. Groom                            "My other computer is an EOS-1"
robert@labtam.oz.au
Labtam Australia Pty Ltd         phone: +61-3-587-1444 fax: +61-3-580-5581
From: mic@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Marc Clarke)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 02:34:33 GMT
Subject: Re: use your hand as a grey card when out doors - especially in snow.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Ft. Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Why not just carry the real thing and get it right the first time?

Kodak sells 5x7 inch and 8x10 inch cardboard gray cards in most
photography stores.  Calumet (1-800-CALUMET) sells an 8x10 inch
plastic gray card made by (I think) Minolta, which should be somewhat
more durable than a cardboard card.  Presumably it could be cut down
to a more managable dimension.

Kodak used to sell a B&W guide book, spiral bound, which had sample
filters you could look through and folded out to provide a white card
and a gray card of about 5x7 inch dimensions.  I have not seen one for
years, so I do not know if they are still made or sold.

Xref: sparky rec.photo:22928 ba.general:5470
From: migdal@roxanne.asd.sgi.com (Chris Migdal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,ba.general,sgi.general
Subject: Re: Where to process my color negative film
Date: 4 Jan 93 19:12:56 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: sgi
NNTP-Posting-Host: roxanne.asd.sgi.com

I have had very good results with Fotron on Castro Street.  The prints
are clean, bright, and properly centred and cut (a big problem with Kodalux).

I have had very bad results from Target, and will never use them again.

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Individualists Unite !                   Chris Migdal    migdal@sgi.com
From: tnelson@ncrcan.Canada.NCR.CA (Tim Nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: How to become a freelance photojournalist?
Date: 4 Jan 93 15:45:46 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: NCR Canada Ltd. Mississauga, Ontario

I volunteered to do some photography for a couple organizations, who would
like their events photographed and published in the local newspapers, but
I was wondering how I could get a photo-journalists papers, so that I can
be out taking pictures, and don't have to worry that anyone will bother me
and tell me that I have to put away my camera.  (ie freedom of the press
and all that stuff)

The organizations who wanted me to do this don't have any idea where I
should start.

Do you?

-- 
Tim.Nelson@Canada.NCR.CA
NCR Canada +1 416 819 4112
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: Tilt Shift (Was: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?)
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 18:15:38 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.163452.4327@eua.ericsson.se>, Harald.Brandt@eua.ericsson.se (Harald Brandt) writes:
|> In article <1992Dec30.201548.14760@walter.bellcore.com> 
|> jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen) writes:
|> > Don't know about the 24 mm TS-E. But the 45 mm TS-E is one of the 
|> sharpest
|> > lenses around.
|> 
|> Do you have more info?
|> 

As I recall from one of the previous posts by Mr. Frank Loffel,
(frank_loffel@gatormail-m.truevision.com),Canon 45 mm TS-E is one of the few 
4-star lenses rated by Chasseur d'Images.

Jason Chen

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rdb1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (ronald.j.deblock..jr)
Subject: Re: use your hand as a grey card when out doors - especially in snow.
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 15:02:30 GMT

In article <1993Jan08.020213.189651@zeus.calpoly.edu> glporter@zeus.calpoly.edu (Glen Porter) writes:
>
>I do quite a bit of wildlife shooting in the snow, and have always used the 
>back of my hand for a grey card.  It isnt grey, but it has roughly the same
>reflectivity that a grey card has, so it works quite well for me. 
>
>-glen

I use the PALM of my hand.  The palm has very little pigmentation, even for
dark skinned folks.  Therefore, its color does not change with the seasons.
This is important for people who have tans only part of the year.

According to my Sekonic meter, the palm of my hand is exactly 1 stop brighter
than a gray card.  I focus on my subject (important!), then set the exposure
for my hand, open up 1 stop/use next slowest shutter speed, and compose.
The 1 stop rule is true for most Caucasian people.

It is important to focus first on your subject and DO NOT FOCUS ON YOUR HAND. 
As anyone who shoots macro/close up knows, the effective apperture of a lens
changes with extension, i.e., focus distance.  It's not likely that your 
subject is at the same distance as your hand.

It is also important that your hand is in the same type of light as your 
subject - bright sun, shade, etc.

Instead of setting exposure and then opening up 1 stop, you could set the
exposure compensation to +1 or 2x on your camera.  I don't use this method
because I often forget to set it back.

John Shaw writes about this subject in "The Nature Photographer's
Guide to Professional Field Techniques".
-- 
Ron DeBlock  rdb1@homxb.att.com  (that's a number 1 in rdb1, not letter l)
AT&T Bell Labs   Somerset, NJ  USA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Problem with Canon FTb Frame Counter
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:19:17 GMT

In article <1993Jan10.000450.7497@cs.UAlberta.CA>, rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel) writes:
> 
> I just noticed that my FTb has stopped reseting
>  the frame counter correctly.  Instead of going 
>  down to -2 (or so), it sets to only 22 when I pop the
>  back open.  It has just started with this behaviour.
> 
> I have also found that if I keep winding, the counter
>  will get to 38 and stay there.
> 
> Now, I suppose I could count in my head, but:
> 	1) is it a problem to fix?

No. Common failure of the FT and that ilk. The dial gunges up with age and gets
sticky. Probably needs a general clean and lube all over.

> 	2) will I damage something by winding past the 38?

No. The sprocket is cut out so the pawl has nothing to chew on...

Simple job to fix it, but there is probably other things that are getting gungy
and ratty and nead cleaning out.

~Paul
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Autofocus Accuracy
Date: 4 Jan 93 15:43:20 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

OK, Netters, here's another one for you:

Will a fast lens on an AF camera produce a sharper image than a slower lens?
For example, compare a 70-210 f/4-5.6 versus a 70-210 f/2.8 (constant).
Suppose I want to take a picture at the 210mm end at f/8.  Assuming both
lenses are optically perfect and equal in every other way, would the f/2.8
lens produce a sharper image?  You could say that since there's less depth of
field at f/2.8, the AF mechanism (which works with the lens wide open) can
get that much closer to the critical focus.  However, you could also say
that since the AF sensor is in the camera and not the lens, the camera will
focus either lens to within the same tolerance based on the image it sees.

Note that most AF systems, which claim to work properly at EV 0 or EV 1, will
refuse to work with lenses whose maximum aperture is smaller than f/5.6 (i.e.
mirror lenses), so there must be some relation.  On the other hand, advertise-
ments for fast lenses generally hype their speed for sports and action shots,
without mentioning increased autofocus accuracy.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Mike

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Currency and stamps; was: Re: Photographing people; need permission?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:48:25 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.134230.9824@hemlock.cray.com> dtj@caffeine.cray.com (Dean Johnson) writes:
>In article <1i78u0INNa08@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal) writes:
>> 
>> Andrew has it right..in fact there are some things that are strictly
>> illegal to copy like currency and stamps - photographing them is a
>> criminal ofense!
>
>How do stamp collector catalogs get away with it? 

Not all photography of currency and stamps is illegal.  From my dim
memory, I seem to recollect that currency photos must be black-and-white
(if printed on paper; color images on slides or video are OK) and reduced
or enlarged at least 33% (or some such percentage).

I don't think the US has any law against photography of stamps.  In some
countries, though, photos of stamps always have a diagonal line through
them to make it obvious that the photo is not a stamp, or at least not an
uncancelled one.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hevans@estwm0.wm.estec.esa.nl (Hugh D.R. Evans (ESA/ESTEC/WMA Netherlands))
Subject: Re: Sample model release:
Followup-To: rec.photo
Reply-To: hevans@estcs1.dnet.estec.esa.nl
Organization: European Space Research and Technology Centre
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 10:37:18 GMT


Perhaps after the deliberations over the most suitable release form have
concluded it
would be good to include the release in the FAQ?  After all, it is
something that would
be useful to many people.

Hugh.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rjw@nsa.hp.com (Richard Webber)
Subject: Re: Sinar Questions
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:47:49 GMT
Organization: Networked Systems Architecture, Hewlett-Packard

In article <1993Jan12.113649.19207@spectrum.xerox.com> mcfarlan@aurigaxerox.com (Doug McFarland 73624 - UI Systems) writes:

   I'm looking at a 4x5 Sinar (either the a1 or f1), as a field camera
   and have a few questions.

   1. Their catalog does not show a revolving back. Is it possible
   to shoot vertical without tilting the whole camera sideways ? If 
   so how so ?

Yes it is easy.  The Sinar front and back standards are the same modular
design.  The clips that hold the lens board in place are the same as the
ones that hold the bellows in place and the same as the ones that hold
the back in place.  You simply unlatch the back, take it out, rotate it
through 90 degrees and pop it back in - simple.

   3. Any a1/f1 folks want to comment on what they like/dislike about
   these cameras.

I am using an old Sinar F1 at the moment.  Although the F stands for "Field"
the design and weight owe more to a studio design.  The camera itself is 
bulky and fairly heavy.  The lensboards, too, are heavy (compared with the small
wood/metal ones on most field cameras).  On the other hand it is fairly quick
to set up (if you keep it assembled on the monorail) and the movements will
go beyond a 90mm Super Angulon.  The movements are also fairly intuitive - 
they are identical back and front and I find them very easy to use.  Getting
the full range of movements out of a wooden field camera can often involve
some ingenious acrobatics.

Funnily enough I am currently trying to make the same decision as you - the
Sinar I am using is borrowed, and I am contemplating getting a wooden field
camera (Wisner Traditional, perhaps) for myself.  This is primarily due to
portability issues with the Sinar.  I was concerned about the amount of 
movements one gets with the field versus monorail cameras - but having
played with the Wisner my doubts are beginning to subside.

Good luck with your decision.

Richard Webber
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: accwai@math.uwaterloo.ca (Andy Wai)
Subject: Re: VIEW CAMARA
Organization: Math Faculty Computing Facility, University of Waterloo
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:39:17 GMT

In article <kelvin.726811150@kickapoo.cs.iastate.edu> kelvin@kickapoo.cs.iastate.edu (Kelvin Don Nilsen) writes:
>[...] i think my own needs would best be served by a light-weight but
>sturdy system designed for 120 film.  The Arca-Swiss appears to be
>one such camera (camera alone sells for $3000!).  I'm not aware of 
>alternative systems, but i'm sure there are some.  does anyone else have
>suggestions?  or opinions regarding the Arca-Swiss camera?

Assume you mean the 6x9 FC, yes it's a neat camera.  The nice thing about
the 6x9 is that it can be enlarged to 4x5 by swapping back and bellows.
The interchangeable tracks and bellows means unlimited extension, rather
essential for an enlarged 6x9 or just doing closeups on a plain 6x9.  And
if you still have something left in your bank account after all these, you
can enlarge it all the way to 8x10.  The F series is the only camera I know
of that's equally at home in both the field and the studio.  Unfortunately,
such flexibility comes at a very high cost.  (Quite a bit higher than Linhof
Technikardan if you include all the extra bits.)

A cheaper alternative is an old series 1 6x9 F.  They surface here and
there from time to time.  You might want to consider one of those rather
than the current model.  The catch is, the lens boards and bellows are
not compatible with the current model.  You can still get flat boards
rather easily right now, but the bellows are getting very hard to come
by.  You can special order them from the factory, but it takes about a
year to be delivered.  If you do go this route, try to grab all the
bellows and recess lens boards you'll ever need as soon as possible.

Andy Wai
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: F2AS --> F2A
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
	<1993Jan13.023019.16387@dragon.acadiau.ca>
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 03:10:07 GMT

In article <1993Jan13.023019.16387@dragon.acadiau.ca> 871323o@dragon.acadiau.ca (Oliver Oey) writes:

   phg+@CS.CMU.EDU (Paul Gleichauf) writes:

   >The F2AS has a solid state meter using a pair (fairly high drain) LED
   >arrows to indicate exposure in a rather binary manner.  This means that 
   >the display was not capable of indicating the amount of under and over
   >exposure, but since one adjusted exposure manually there was tactile 
   >feedback.  The standard galvanometer based meter movement on all the 
   >Phototonic bodies (F and F2) suffered from a relative fragility and
   >aging trouble.  The solid state F2AS series was very rugged.
   >There were two variations of the F2AS (I believe the second had the
   >first provisions for AI-S style lenses, but I only owned the first
   >version).
   >							Paul

   Would anyone care to comment on the F2A?

If I remember correctly the F2A was an F2 with DP11 finder.
The F2AS was an F2 with DP12 finder.  The DP11 had an analog
meter movement while the DP12 had the LED's.  Both were AI
coupled.  It would surprise me very much if any F2 finder
used AIS.  I don't think AIS even existed during the F2 era.
I am pretty sure AIS was only used for the programmed and
shutter-preferred autoexposure modes of the FG, FA, and N2000.

For more info check Peterson's "Nikon System Handbook" or the
monthly Del's Camera ad in Shutterbug (poor man's Nikon
encyclopedia).

The F2AS was arguably the greatest camera ever made--supply
your own criteria.

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ianchan@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ian Hin Yun Chan)
Subject: Kodachrome longevity
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 06:08:29 GMT

I understand that Kodachrome is less stable when exposed to light (ie when
projected) than Ektachrome. Does anyone have any figures about how much
Kodachrome can be projected before degeneration occurs?
- Ian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fhd@panix.com (Frank Deutschmann)
Subject: Re: Nikon F3 quirk?
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 04:12:51 GMT

In <1993Jan5.161809.7277@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:

>Just after loading a new roll of film the shutter
>speed will be set to 1/80 until the frame counter
>reaches 1. Don't ask me why.

Yes, this is definitely true, but my F3 also has shown the "stuck at
1/80" quirk -- Nikon service has tried to fix it twice, but its
intermittent and hard to catch.  This isvery strange, and I don't
really have a good fix; I just twiddle the camera until it goes away
(remove lens, rotate shutter speed, pull battery/motor drive, etc).

Funny thing is that I get the problem most when I haven't used the
camera for a while -- guess its just my F3's way of telling me to
shoot more!

-frank

-- 
EMail: fhd@panix.com         |  Do or do not, there is no try.
Phone: 1 - 212 / 765 - 2050  |                                 -- Yoda
From: JRT@buc.edu.au (Jim Thyer)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: f length equivalent to human eye???
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 00:32:53 GMT
Organization: Ballarat University College
NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.132.16.4

In article <robinson.96@odie.ee.wits.ac.za> robinson@odie.ee.wits.ac.za (Michael Robinson) writes:
>From: robinson@odie.ee.wits.ac.za (Michael Robinson)
>Subject: f length equivalent to human eye???
>Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 06:03:24 GMT
>Hi all,
>
>Happy new year.
>
>I have been thinking about the issue of what focal length is equivalent to 
>that of the human eye.  Most books say 50mm is the closes ito either angle 
(Remainder deleted)

Many follow up articles have been posted, they generally talk about the 
focal length of the human eye.
 What is "Focal Length"?

For a thin lens, "The primary focal point F is an axial point having the 
property that any ray coming from it or proceeding toward it travels 
parallel to the axis after refraction"  
(Jenkins & White, Fundamentals of Optics, McGraw Hill 4th Ed, 1976)
Applying this ti the eye, and considering its physical dimensions of around 
1.5 cm front to rear, and allowing for the internal fluid having a 
refractive index of around 1.3, the eye has a focal length of about 2 cm.

What people really mean is related to perspective of vision, and angle of 
view.

Jim Thyer, Physics,              jrt@buc.edu.au
Ballarat University College, Victoria, Australia