HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Lamp intensity vs. lifetime
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:28:53 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.172117.21297@Happy-Man.com>, josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam) writes:
> In <BxvICz.rs@javelin.sim.es.com> rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs) writes:
> 
...
Lamp life is ~= to the 3rd to 4th power of the applied voltage. The 2 killers
of lamps are 1 ( for big spots etc ) thermal stress at power on. Stage lighting
techs will pre-heat the lamps for upo to 20 min before use, and only dim down
to a low output. IE, if you look at the lamp, it is quite a bright red, but
provides nearly no illumination on the stage/set. 2 switch on surge. A cold
filament has a resistance of only a few ohms... hence LARGE currents and
large magnetic fields pulling the filament apart. This is why 90% of the
'pop... damm's happen when you turn on the light. A 'soft-start' dimmer will
increase lamp life by ~4 fold in many cases.

A good thyristor dimmer should not cause too much buzzing. The buzz realy gets
going at the very low end of the range, and you probably shouldn't operate the
lamp like that any way.

BTW, some quartz-halogen globes will fail very quickly if run at a reduced
voltage. Check the data sheets.

~Paul
From: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon AE-1 trigger won't work
Date: 16 Nov 92 01:37:18 GMT
Reply-To: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

In article <Bxquo7.Hvt@umassd.edu>, rolls@cis.umassd.edu (Frank Pinto) writes:
>Hello all
>
>I have this Canon AE-1 and  one day when I was about to shoot some pistures
>the trigger (you can tell I'm not a pro) mechanism would't click (shoot)
>I tried to take it apart, however, I can't figer how to get to it.
>
>Any hints, comments, sugestions?
>I'm afraind to go to a dealer $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I would suspect that the problem is in the battery. Put a new battery in the
battery compartment. Observe the location of the + and - battery contacts. You 
might try cleaning the battery contacts within the battery housing first.

The battery compartment is located in the front of the camera body just below
the camera's "trigger". It is covered by a small door which is held closed by a
latch that under ideal conditions can be opened with a fingernail.

If it is not the battery then maybe a new used body may be less expensive than
repair..... maybe.

andy
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau)
Subject: Re: Elan price (summary from original poster)
Keywords: Elan, Canon, EOS,mail-order
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation, Santa Clara
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 18:18:57 GMT

In article <1ejc83INN5bv@antigone.usc.edu> yangchen@antigone.usc.edu (Yang Chen) writes:
>     ....  So I ended up ordered from CWO, for $559.85 with the said
>lens. Hope it will arrive as they promised (Tuesday, I asked 2nd day
>Fedx).
>
>Yang

awh! man! you didn't have to pay for 2nd day shipping.  since you're in
so. cal. CWO will have the stuff at you door in about 3 days without
special handling.

eugene

Organization: Hunt Institute for Botanical Documentatn, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 15:28:47 -0500 
From: "Frank A. Reynolds" <fr0c+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Need help selecting a truly compact camera

>From: sanjiv@cse.unl.edu (Sanjiv K. Bhatia)

>I am looking for an extremely small compact 35 mm camera.  The ideal camera
>will have all the auto features (focus, wind, rewind, flash) and be small
>enough to fit in the palm.  The closest I have come to finding one is the
>Olympus Stylus.  However, I am sure I can get better than that.  I'll limit my
>budget to about $300.  Suggestions please.

A fellow employee going to India for a month did not what to take his SLR
(a Nikon Nikkormat) with him.  He wanted a light and compact camera.  I
just happen to have literature of the Olympus Stylus, the Konica A4 (now
the Big Mini), and the Fuji Mini Dual.  All three of these cameras have
the same
basic specifications (and of coarse there are other similar cameras from
other manufactures).  He purchased the Fuji camera the first weekend
after I gave him the literature, it was on sale at a local catalogue
sales store.
He put only one test roll of film through the camera before going on his
trip.  Envisioning the overexposed/underexposed/out of focus photographs
that would return from India, I vowed never to discuse "what's a good
camera" with anyone again.  When the photographs (15 to 20 rolls of
color print film) returned
from the photo lab I was surprised, the only photos (and they where few)
that where not "excellent" where the ones in which "he" made a mistake
(forgetting to turn on the flash with strong backlight, etc.).  All this
to say that I was
impressed with the performance of this compact camera.  Keep in mind when I
say "excellent" this is relative to the photographs this camera was ask
to take.  It appears that if you keep mind and stay within their
photographic limits,
these cameras can be great little photographic tools.

************************************************************************

I am not endorsing the Fuji Mini Duel or any other compact camera,
only sharing my observations and opinion.

Frank A. Reynolds



Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Resolution of Lens ???
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 23:36:40 GMT

In article <1ejjclINNgl8@hpsdlss3.sdd.hp.com>, johno@sdd.hp.com (John Ongtooguk) writes:
> 
>    Isn't Fuji claiming 160 lp/mm for Velvia ? 80 lp/mm is what I usually
>    hear being the accepted limit for high quality 35mm color images and
>    it seems to be the case per your tests. 160 lp/mm also seems kind of
>    high as while people agree that it is finer grained than Kodachrome 25 
>    which is rated at 100 lp/mm some have stated that the Kodachrome 'edge
>    definition' can still produce as much detail in an image. 

Yes, Fuji claim 160 lp/mm (high contrast 1000:1) and 80 lp/mm (1.6:1). From
the look of the given MTF data those numbers would appear to be where the
MTF falls to zero. The MTF is well below 20% before it gets to 100 lp/mm
(actually cycles/mm). If we assume we need 20% modulation to visually
resolve the USAF test pattern it would seem Velvia will not give 100 lp/mm
with ANY lens, no matter what the aperture is, judged by visual examination
of the USAF test pattern. With other techniques (contact printing of a mask)
of exposure and measurement (microdensitometry) I assume you could get to
the numbers Fuji claim.

> 
>    It still seems that you should be able to get more than 100 lp/mm
>    with your 500 f5 (Genesis as I recall) and Tech Pan, as even with 
>    the above situation there still should be adequate margin at about
>    200 lp/mm (?) if Tech Pan can resolve to 320 lp/mm. 200 lp/mm is
>    5 microns per lp or about 0.0002in, a small distance. I'm guessing
>    that most (all ?) of your testing has been performed with a tripod
>    and that you might get some better numbers by using an inspection
>    surface plate or laser mounting table. While you're in an inspection
>    area you could also check for vibration of your setup. A microscope
>    that takes a camera could also be pressed into service. 
>     
It's hard to measure the "far field" performance of a 500mm lens on an
optical bench, since the target would need to be at least 5m (preferably 
more like 12.5m) away. This exceeds the size of my lab by quite a bit!
I do use a heavy (15#) tripod and mirror lock up, but there could be some
shutter induced vibration. I intend to repeat my tests with Tech Pan soon
to see if theory and practice agree!

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
From: philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Disclaimer on Photos
Date: 19 Nov 92 23:12:54
Organization: M.I.T. Artificial Intelligence Lab.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: philg@martigny.ai.mit.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: zug.ai.mit.edu
In-reply-to: sog@craycos.com's message of 19 Nov 92 00:36:58 GMT


Get the ASMP (american society magazine photogs) book "forms" with
model releases, delivery memos (what you want), etc.  It costs $15.
They advertise in Photo District News.


--

      -- Philip Greenspun

-------------------------------------------------------------
MIT Department of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science
545 Technology Square, Rm 433, Cambridge, MA 02139
(617) 253-8574
From: jay@intermec.com (Jay Schlegel x6878)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: putting photos on a wall.. (?)
Date: 18 Nov 92 16:57:19 GMT
Reply-To: jay@intermec.com (Jay Schlegel x6878)
Organization: Intermec Corporation, Everett WA

In article <BxuFy1.HM6@cs.dal.ca> graham@ug.cs.dal.ca (Michael Graham) writes:
>In article <1992Nov16.171458.9871@PacBell.COM> jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria) writes:
>>
>>Not to be a smart-ass, but why don't you frame the pictures?
>>Afterall, that is the normal way, at least for me, when I
>>want to put my pictures up on the wall.
>
>damn! I just deleted my original msg. Anyway - I want to put A LOT of
>pictures on my wall - INEXPENSIVELY. I'm talking about 50-100 photos, 
>which rules out thumb tacks, nails, and definitely frames.
>Once again - it's a very hard plaster wall.
>
>mike "almost unemployed student with little cash to spend" graham
>-- 
   
   OK, an idea, not very expensive and easy on the wall...

   Due to the expense of framing, I also frame few of my prints.  I could do so
   if I thought it worthwhile, but for my photo wall and various other locations
   (bathrooms, etc) I think foam-core mounted photos, with borders left for later
   matting/framing, look just fine (in a photographer's residence).  I use very
   small finish nails which make holes that are paint-repairable.  Generally the
   smallest prints I hang are 11*14.  This method, especially given 8*10s, would
   apparently result in too many holes in that "hard plaster wall".

   Michael, my suggestion would be to mount many your prints on large sheets of
   foamcore (many prints to the sheet) which would require only 3 or 4 (or even 2)
   small nails for each large sheet.  I'd say you could get 12 8*10s on a medium-
   large sheet of foamcore (36*40???) still leaving a bit of room for a border
   should you want to cut them out for framing at a later date.  Larger sheets
   than this can be found.  I started out using "Photo Mount" spray glue and later
   switched to Elmer's spray glue (which looks, acts, smells like the same
   thing at a lower cost).  It takes a little practice to get the prints
   positioned where you want and glued down bubble-free.  I hold the print in my
   right hand, position the left corners on the foamcore, and sweep left to right
   with a soft cloth as I lower the right-side of the print onto the foam-core.
   I only apply glue to the back of the print (*not* both surfaces) and I
   meticulously clean each surface just prior to glueing.  Any dust will result
   in a bubble.

   I also use a (supposedly) UV-resistent photo lacquer to protect the prints
   once mounted.  This is available in gloss, semi-gloss, and matte finishes.
   It's about $11 a can, but a can goes a long ways.  My only concern is with
   the potential for the lacquer to yellow over time.

Hope this helps,

-- 
-*jay  Jay Schlegel --> Intermec Corp., Everett Wa.
						     fluke!
	jay@intermec.com      OR  -->	    uunet!pilchuck!intermec!jay
From: jylitalo@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Juha Ylitalo)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Request: Opinions about Olympus IS-3000
Date: 18 Nov 92 16:10:50 GMT
Organization: University of Helsinki
X-Newsreader: Misty Bay News [V1.3.pl3]

I am currently using Canon AE-1, with Tamrons 38-100 mm and 80-200 mm
zooms.  The only problem with that system is my personal dislike to the
camera bags (because most of them are designed to hang on one shoulder). 
So when I am out and looking for something to photograph, I usually
carry only one zoom (35-100mm) connected to the camera body (AE-1) and
nothing else (well sometimes extra film). 

If I would update my camera stuff, one possible choice would be Canon
EOS 1000 (FN), except the fact that I still had troubles with camera
bags.  Two weeks ago, there was couple of articles in finnish papers
(Kamera ja TM) about camera exhibition in Germany.  In that exhibition
Olympus had brought there IS-3000.  As some of you already know, IS-3000
is updated model from IS-1000.  It has built-in 35-180 mm zoom and with
teleconverters you can have 28 mm and 300 mm.  The functions, which it
can make should be somewhere between P&S and SLR-cameras (program modes
for portraits, landscape and night photographing, double exposure, flash
control etc.).  If we based our judgement on these few facts, we have
compact package, which holds everything important what holiday/amateur
photographer might want.  I haven't had mucht time to look into data
sheet and even if I would find time, my technical knowledge wouldn't
point out major good and bad things about it. 

So if you have any experience about IS-3000 or opinions about cameras
with similar design (I know P&S and SLR, but can't recall how you call
cameras like IS-3000 or Canon Epoca in english :(), I would like to hear
about it.  Also I would be interested to know, what it generally costs
in US, since they have quite bit lower prices than here in Finland. 
Question about price is secondary, since none of us wants to read what
camera X costs in Y (as FAQ points out), but if you have something else
to say, I guess that people won't mind about price information. 
-- 
Juha 'Ylis' Ylitalo	Juha.Ylitalo@Helsinki.FI	<mail-address>
Sammatintie 6 O 173 	jylitalo@kruuna.helsinki.fi	<talk-address>
SF-00550 Helsinki    	+358-0-773-3664 		<phone (home)>
    'Just a little of that human touch' - Bruce Springsteen
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Subject: Re: Info wanted on Nikon N90 vs. Minolta 9xi--what to buy...
Originator: asanders@sparta
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 18:53:49 GMT


The advertisers would have us believe that the excellence of a camera
system depends on *features*. In reality, the excellence of a camera 
system depends largely on LENSES. The old Minolta MD lenses were
really quite good, but it is very doubtful that the current line
of Minolta Maxxum AF lenses compare very favorably with Nikon's
line (or Canon's, for that matter) of excellent optics.

Some people may disagree. That's my opinion.

				-Alan
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: EOS FAQ - Bigger and Better!
Keywords: Canon EOS FAQ
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:21:00 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <1992Nov17.071145.9207@colorado.edu> panos@burton.cs.colorado.edu (Panos Tsirigotis) writes:
>In article <1992Nov16.231830.3592@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
>>
>>6.7.  How can I shoot more than 36 exposures?
>>
>>It appears that there is no way so far.   The  camera  cannot  be  made  to
>>ignore the DX-ed film length.  Jim Cathey hypothesizes that with the faster
>>(5fps) film transport that first appeared on the 630/RT, that  Canon  might
>>worry  about  tearing the film off the spool.  (Anyone else have experience
>>with non-DX'ed cannisters?  What about if you hit EOF with a roll  of  less
>>than 36?  Any sprocket hole damage?)
>
>As a single data point, I can state that a lot of times I have managed to 
>get a 25th frame out of a 24-exposure film without ever tearing the film.
>My camera is a 630.
>
>Besides I can hypothesize that the Elan/100 will not allow shooting past
>the 36th frame although its motor is weaker that the one in the 630/RT/10s.
>

I have an EOS-100 (ELAN in the US), and I don't think it actually reads the
number of exposures from the DX-coded film can.  There are only six sensors,
which I assume correspond to the top row of the DX-code, where the film
speed information is encoded.  The number of exposures is in the bottom row.

I'd say I get that 25th frame out of a 24 exposure roll more often with the
EOS-100 than I could with my old AV-1.  Perhaps the camera assumes all film
has 36 exposures, so you can go past 24 on a 24 exposure roll but not past
36 on a 36 exposure roll.

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
From: jay@intermec.com (Jay Schlegel x6878)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Sigma 75-300 APO... slow
Date: 19 Nov 92 17:30:40 GMT
Reply-To: jay@intermec.com ()
Distribution: world
Organization: Intermec Corporation, Everett, Wa.


   I'm posting this as a datapoint for anyone owning or considering
   purchasing a Sigma 75-300 f/5.6 APO.

   I recently borrowed this lens from a friend for the purpose of testing
   against my 100-300 xi lens.

   I discovered the Sigma to be 1/2 stop slower than advertised in each of
   the focal-length/f-stop combinations I tested, based on comparison with
   other lenses in AP mode.  Combinations tested wrt true aperture were:

	100mm f/4.8 (wide-open)
	100mm f/5.6
	300mm f/5.6 (wide-open)
	300mm f/8

   My conclusion is based on comparisons with the following lenses using
   a huge non-reflective grey-card (pacific oceon under overcast skies)
   and spot-metering:
   

	Maxxum 100-300 f/4-5.6 xi
	Maxxum 50mm f/1.7
	Sigma 28-70 f/3.5-4.5 UC
	Sigma 500mm f/7.2 APO
	Nikkor 24mm f/2.8
	Nikkor 50mm f/1.8

   The Sigma 75-300 is in a Nikon mount. Testing against both Maxxum and
   Nikon bodies/lenses effectively eliminated exposure calibration of the bodies
   as a variable.   I realize this is anecdotal evidence, but thought it
   might be useful to some.  I'm not recommending against the purchase
   of this lens, but if I were purchasing one I would test its true aperture
   before my return privileges ran out...

   Note that the 2 other Sigma lenses were consistent.

-- 
-*jay  Jay Schlegel --> Intermec Corp., Everett Wa.
						     fluke!
	jay@intermec.com      OR  -->	    uunet!pilchuck!intermec!jay
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: vessey@UPEI.CA (Blair Vessey)
Subject: Looking for reference material on Hasselblad
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island, CANADA
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 16:51:52 GMT


I recently got a good deal on a used Hasselblad 500C with a 80mm 2.8 planar 
and other assorted goodies for my wife's birthday.  I'm looking for a good 
book(s) on Hassies, specifically dealing with available accessories and 
perhaps the history behind the brand.  Shutterbug has some info on what 
pieces folks have for sale, but I'd like to come close to a "comprehensive" 
listing of all the bits and pieces.

I have seen references to a book by Wildi (sp?).  Can anyone tell me what it 
covers?

Thanks...
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 Blair Vessey                          |            E-Mail: VESSEY@UPEI.CA
 Computer Services, Network Services   |         Telephone: (902) 566-0659
 University of Prince Edward Island    |               FAX: (902) 566-0958
 Charlottetown, P.E.I. CANADA  C1A 4P3 |            Mailer: Pegasus/Charon
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
       "An ounce of perception, a pound of obscure" - N. Peart
From: ccy@po.CWRU.Edu (Cheung C. Yue)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Aerial photography from a blimp
Date: 23 Nov 1992 02:35:31 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ccy@po.CWRU.Edu (Cheung C. Yue)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


I recently read about a commercial system which sends a camera
(still or video) aloft on a remote-controlled blimp (18 ft or so)
to take photos and video from a high angle.  Commercial application
include aerial photos of mansions and estates and such.  I have not
been able to find out more about this system.  Can anyone help?

ccy@po.cwru.edu
-- 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: frodesto@idt.unit.no (Frode Stokke)
Subject: Nikon F601 (N6006) vs. Canon EOS 100 (Elan)
Reply-To: frodesto@idt.unit.no (Frode Stokke)
Organization: Div. of CS & Telematics, Norwegian Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 19:21:59 GMT


I'm soon going to buy my first SLR-camera.

I am going to buy either the Nikon F601 or the Canon EOS 100 but can't
make up my mind.

I have some questions that might help me decide which of them to buy:

1. The Canon camera does not seem as robust as the Nikon (more
   plastic). Does anyone have experiences about this?

2. The Nikon's auto focus system seems slower than Canon's, is this
   correct?

3. Some articles in this groups have mentioned that the AF-system on 
   the F801 (N8008) is lousy. (Slow, noisy  and tends to move back-
   and forwards before settling down in the correct position.)
   Does the F601 AF-system have the same problems?

4. How useful is the built-in flash in the cameras? The F801s is not
   that much more expensive than the F601, but does not have a built
   in flash.  Should I consider bying a F801s instead?

5. Is the Canon's flash system just as good as the Nikon's?
   Does it have a slow-sync option?


My general impression is that the Canon Camera seems to offer more
options, but I'm worried about all the plastic.

If anyone have opinions about which one I should choose please post it
or mail me. Positive or negative experiences with the cameras would
also be of interest.

- Frode.
From: jyk50@quts.ccc.amdahl.com (J Kretschmann III)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: The Kodak disposable underwater camera
Date: 23 Nov 92 20:41:44 GMT

I recently returned from a trip to the Carribean.  While there I went
snorkeling and had the chance to use a Fuji disposable underwater camera.
I found the picture quality to be quite sub-standard.  The camera was
pre-loaded with 400 ASA film.  It was an overcast day and most shots
were taken in approx. 5-6 feet of water.  The pictures turned out
quite "bland" with little contrast or color.  This may partially be
due to the overcast sky.  I would only use this camera again if it was
a very bright day.  The cost is very expensive making it difficult to
justify even using this type of camera.  The camera, itself, is about
$12-15.  Then add on another $10-12 for processing.  That's about $25
for a roll of 24 exposures of poor quality photos.  You decide for
yourself.
From: marioa@park.bu.edu (Mario Aguilar)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F-401 - For Sale: With Nikon Lenses!
Date: 16 Nov 92 15:50:52 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Boston University Center for Adaptive Systems

>>>>> On 15 Nov 92 17:31:43 GMT, marioa@park.bu.edu (Mario Aguilar) said:

In article <MARIOA.92Nov15123143@park.bu.edu> marioa@park.bu.edu (Mario Aguilar) writes:

> Nikon F-401
> 35-70mm/3.3-4.5 AF lens/w UV  \  Nikon Lenses
> 70-210mm/4-5.6 AF lens        /  
> 4 AA batteries with recharger.
> Hove F-401/N4004 User's Guide.
> Extra flash unit (not a nikon one).

> Base price $370.00.
> This is to be sold to the best offer so email with your offer or
> questions. 

This is just to clarify that the camera and lenses are all Nikon.
I am sorry I wasn't clear the first time.

Thank you,
--
Mario Aguilar
Center for Adaptive Systems
Dept. of Cognitive & Neural Systems
Boston University

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: supplies@sklib.usask.ca
Subject: RE: SB-24 Speedlite, opinions sought
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 18:46:56 GMT

Somebody mentioned that the SB-25 has red eye reduction which the SB-24
doesn't have. The Redeye reduction function only operates with the
new F-90 camera.
Newsgroups: rec.photo