HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Black Walnut
Date: 9 Sep 92 16:14:11 GMT
Organization: Open Software Foundation

In article <18k8lpINNnes@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> ag423@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Frank Fijalkovich) writes:

   A friend of mine has a black walnut tree in his back yard that he
   wants removed. Does anyone know if tree is worth anything and
   who would be interested in buying it ? It is about 2 to 2.5 feet
   in diameter. Thanks in advance for any info.

The following is IMO and a guess at that. Finished black walnut (cut
and dried, not planed) goes for between 4 and 5 dollars a board foot.
Depending on the height, one might guess in the range $500 to $1000
(assuming about 20 ft of usable trunk).  Might be more, I haven't seen
much in 12" black walnut boards.  There's also a bit of money in the
crotchs and burls for turners or veneer cutting.

--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:09:58 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: joining edges of wood

Understanding Wood by Hoadley contains a good discussion of the merits
of using splines, dowels and biscuits when glueing up panels.  Roger
Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Planes...(East vs West)
From: carvalho@tribiet.maintech.com (joe carvalho)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 23:40:05 PDT
Organization: Tribiet: A city much like hell.

Hi,
What are the advantages of eastern/japanese handplanes compared to 
western/european? 

ThanX.

Joe Carvalho
Beacher Tool & Die...A Hughe Jorgen Company
1106 2nd Street, Suite 316
Encinitas, CA. 92024

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: cpsigd01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Cutting aluminum on a table saw
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 23:14:16 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Sep14.210943.14277@eos.arc.nasa.gov>, phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone) writes:
> I have heard that it is possible to do nice clean cuts through
> aluminum with a table saw.  Does this apply to relatively thick
> (1/8") stock?
> 
> What kind of blade must be used?  I assume the combo blade that
> came with my Contractor's saw is too coarse-toothed.
> 
> Any special caveats?  I suppose one must be even more careful
> about the dust, for instance.
> 
> Thanks for any info.  Reply here, if you think it's of general
> interest.  Email is fine, too.
> 
> 
> 	Phil Stone     (phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov | ...ames!eos!phil)
> 

We have had considerable experience cutting Aluminum with a radial arm
table saw.  The thickness however, was that of picture framing material
which is about 1/16 inch.  We use a 10 in 80 tooth carbide tipped 
blade.  Your combo blade is not suitable.  It should be noted that
a lubricant applied to the blade is necessary for good results.

This posting is from a guest.  Responses can be made to the node address
given below.

Bruce Long
 -- 
****************************************************************************
* Curt SIGDESTAD, Univ. Louisville  	    "OLD AGE AND TREACHERY WILL    *
* CPSIGD01@ULKYVX.CT.LOUISVILLE.EDU	     OVERCOME YOUTH AND SKILL."    *
* CPSIGD01@ULKYVX.BITNET	                                           *
* 			(502)588-7722   (502)588-8072 FAX                  *
****************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pdunster@cc.uow.edu.au (peter dunster)
Subject: Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Organization: University Of Wollongong
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 92 00:38:53 GMT

jeff@hilbert.cyprs.rain.com (Jeffrey S. Freedman) writes:

>In article <Btx0xq.ADo@news.orst.edu> holtt@OCE.ORST.EDU (Tim Holt) writes:

>>thinking and I wonder how many other "molding nerds" there are out
>>there.  

>Well, I used a Stanley #55 to hand-plane about 200 ft. of birch moulding for
>my youngest daughter's room.  Does that qualify me?

Seeing as how we are all crawling out of the woodwork (or is that into it??)
I'll have to admit that I too often tread on the thin line between buying 
another moulding plane discovered in an antique shop, and receiving divorce
threats from the wife. (I usually end up keeping the plane and the wife so
long as she gets another piece of furniture with some nice mouldings!!).

While on the subject, one of my favourite tools is my Stanley #55, complete
except for the centre runner. Would anyone happen to know where I may be
able to get a replacement?.  Is there anywhere still making blades to fit
the #55??.

Happy Mouldings

Pete
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: shop tools
Date: 8 Sep 92 18:11:42 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada

bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-) writes:

> What I'm asking for is a priority list as far as what I need next in power
> tools, a shaper, a band saw, a planer, etc and which is most important and
> most usefull.

No one can really answer that question for you; your priorities can only be set
by you.  My advice is to start some projects and buy tools as you need them.
You could buy all the tools you think yu need (before you actually start a
project), and then find that you never use most of them.  For one person a
planer is essential; for another, a bandsaw and hand plane is enough.

So, start working with the tools you have, and build up your own priority/wish
list as you go, and buy the tools as money allows.  Hopefully, they'll all
prove as useful as you thought.  :)

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ceramic tile
Date: 9 Sep 92 14:03:24 GMT
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO

In article <wef_c=G00WBOQ1nHtA@andrew.cmu.edu> Pamela Snyder <ps3x+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>I am a completely amateur, learn as you go handyperson. I want to join
>wood trim to ceramic tile in my bathroom. Can anyone tell me if that is
>possible and what kind of adhesive do I use?
Could you be a bit more specific? Is this an edge band, will it be exposed
to much water, will it be attached directly to the tile or simply against it?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Addresses...
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:08:24 GMT

kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:


>Does anybody have the corporate addresses for :

>  Grizzly 
>  Delta
>  Powermatic
>  Porter Cable
>  Makita
>  Milwaukee
>  Bosch
>  Black & Decker

>I am going to write to them and try to sell them on the
>idea of trading cards for their tools too...

Good idea!  Now, when all these manufacturers start their own trading
cards, *we* will have gotten in on the ground floor with the first set
of power tool trading cards.  Before you know it, this will be as big as
baseball cards, and we will all be rich.  Wow!  Now that I am going to
be rich, I guess I can afford that 15" planer I've had my eye on.... :)


-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: GE.RLF@forsythe.stanford.edu (Rich Froisness)
Subject: Selecting Drill Press
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:01:53 GMT

I have been following this bboard for awhile and have picked up some
tips from some of the postings.

My existing shop equipment includes a radial arm saw, band saw,
bench belt sander, and various hand held power tools.

It is time for me to buy a drill press and so I wanted to come to
this group for advice and suggestions.

I currently do some little gifts for people (little dust catchers
around the house or in the yard).  I may want to make furniture in
the future when I gain some experience.

Should I be looking at a floor model or bench model (my shop area
could probable provide space for either)?

What kind of options should I need for basic woodworking?

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.
Rich.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: goeckefw@piston.detroit.ingr.com (Fred Goeckel)
Subject: Tung Oil
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:52:39 GMT

What is the proper way to apply Tung Oil.  Does it protect as well as
varnish (polyurthane)?  It I apply it to an Oak table - will it protect
the wood from water rings from glasses ?  If I don't like how Tung Oil
works - can urthane be applied directly over the Tung Oil.  What is a
good brand of Tung Oil.

Thanks in advance.

Fred Goeckel
From: porcelli@trabs.serum.kodak.com (Rocco Porcelli (x69853))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: SHAKER WORKSHOPS
Date: 11 Sep 92 18:29:24 GMT
Reply-To: porcelli@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company


In article <10SEP199208213433@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov>, smchuck@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Charles Lawrence) writes...
>I JUST RECEIVED A CATALOG FROM SHAKER WORKSHOPS AND AM THINKING
>ABOUT TRYING THEIR KITS FOR CHAIRS. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE
>OR FEEDBACK ON SHAKER WORKSHOPS PRODUCTS?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

>I built one of their rockers about 10 years ago.  It still rocks.  As I recall
>it was fairly east to put together.  Hardest thing was weaving my pattern into
>the back

This sounds interesting.  Can you post the address for Shaker Workshops.  Thanks.

Rocco Porcellio
Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Kickback
Date: 15 Sep 92 00:03:30 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055) writes:
: From what I have read, you should NOT have your fence parallel to the
: blade, but have it open away from the blade slightly at the rear.  Over the
: length of the table saw this would be from 1/16" to 3/16".  I used to have
: the same 'free cut' kickback problem.  I noticed that while I had the saw on
: the vibration from the motor caused material to move around on the table. 
: The material would also move in the direction the table was leaning (however
: slight).  I adjusted the saw so that the table was level (or leaning 
: slightly in the direction to clear the cut off) and my problem disapeared.

This has been argued for decades. The "experts" still can not come to a
concensus.  However, if the saw is set up correctly, then you should be
able to keep the fence parallel to the blade. You do want to make sure
that the work piece stays firm against the fence until it is clear of
the blade.

Think about it a little bit. If you have the far end of the fence slightly
further away from the blade - then you are making sure that only the teeth
at the front of the blade are touching your work piece. That is fine.
However, you are also ensuring that the teeth at the back of the blade are
contacting the scrap - and the back teeth will try to lift the scrap and
the work piece from the table. To me, this means occasional jamming and
kickback.

Bill
From: ben@bailey.UUCP (Ben Bailey)
Subject: CAD for home PC?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: 14 Sep 92 04:49:07 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ben Bailey's Home..Tampa Fl.


I've been using a simple CAD package, called 'EasyCAD' for drawing
up my plans (I like to draw before I build; it makes me think through
the problem/design better).  While it's pretty good, I've seen 
some other packages around that might be better.  I was nevre able
to get my drawings to be printed out to scale on one of the axis
(forget which one).  That was a bummer, so that everything had to
be labeled for use in the shop.

Has anyone any experience on Design Cad 2-D, 3-D?  I've heard that the
2-D is better for making the actual line drawing, and that the 3-D
can then import the 2D file and do the solid model rendering.  Any
conclusions?

What about Generic Cad?

Also, has anyone used any software that allows you to input dimensions,
and it will produce a drawing of the cuts required on a sheet of 
plywood to produce those seperate pieces, along with the number of
plywood pieces required?

Autocad may be the best, but I can't afford that.  I need value!

Thanks!
Ben
--
Ben Bailey                 ben@bailey.uucp -- bailey!ben@uunet.uu.net
12210 Shady Forest Dr.     ben@bailey.tscs.com
Riverview, Fl. 33569       -- The main thing is to keep the main
813-677-5021                  thing the main thing.  Mainly.
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Blurfl
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:09:44 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY




Mark Strandskov writes:
> Where did the term blurfl come from?


Mark,

   Remember the the book 2001: A Space Oddessy?  The computer
in the book was the HAL9000.  If you increase each letter in
the name HAL you get IBM.  Blurfl is a similar term.  If you
increase each letter in blurfl you get 'cmvsgm'.  Now is it clear?  



:-)   :-)   :-)


Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Help on Router bit selection
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 05:21:58 GMT

Rob Robason (rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com) wrote:
: yasin> I am a novice, interested in purchasing a decent set of router
: yasin> bits.  I know it depends on the work I am going to do and also
: yasin> on the budget.  But how about suggesting the general purpose
: yasin> bits, I have seen lot of catalogs and cannot make my mind that
: yasin> which bit is more useful then the others.  Experience is the
: yasin> best teacher, so would appreciate if you can share the knowledge
: yasin> of your experience.
: 
: The bits I use the most are my 1/2" and 3/8" rounding-over, 1/2"
: dovetail and roman-ogee, but as you astutely observe, it depends on what
: you're doing and the style of your projects.  In any case, get carbide
: tipped bits, anything else is a waste of money unless you're only
: working clear soft woods (and maybe even then).
: 
: Rob

I agree on the carbide.  I ran a 1/2 inch olgee around the railing that
I built on my deck and I burnt up two none carbide bits on only about
70' of edging on green treated pine.

Dennis

--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rgouldng@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Subject: best scroll saw
Organization: Memorial University. St.John's Nfld, Canada
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 15:12:54 GMT

I am interested in buying a scroll saw in the $200-300 range and was 
wondering if someone could give me some advice, and perhaps the best 
buy for the money. I remember reading some time ago that some new saws 
have a different tensioning mechanism which makes for better cuts. Any 
help would be greatly appreciated.
Rick Goulding
St. John's, Nf, Canada
.............where did you say you were from?.........
From: neilm@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Neil Mager )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Panasonic & P-C cordless 12v drills
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:48:05 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43



    Last year there was alot of discussion about cordless drills.
    The Panasonic was one that seemed pretty popular. I was
    wondering how people liked them after they've had them a
    while. Any troubles with them etc. I'm considering purchasing
    either the Panasonic or the Porter Cable at this point. Any
    comments would be appreciated.


    Thanks,

--


===============================================================================
Neil Mager
MIT Lincoln Labs            Lexington, MA
  Weather Radar - Group 43

Internet                    <neilm@juliet.ll.mit.edu>
Voice                       (617) 981-4803
===============================================================================
From: news@olivea.atc.olivetti.com (news)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Kickback
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:20:30 GMT
Organization: Olivetti ATC; Cupertino, CA

: further away from the blade - then you are making sure that only the teeth
: at the front of the blade are touching your work piece. That is fine.
: However, you are also ensuring that the teeth at the back of the blade are
: contacting the scrap - and the back teeth will try to lift the scrap and
: the work piece from the table. To me, this means occasional jamming and
: kickback.
From: norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055)
While we are thinking about it, think about how the wood is traveling 
through the blade.  With the fence left slightly out at the far end of the
blade you are making, in effect, a cove cut that goes all the way through
the stock.  Your kerf is slightly larger, but you shouldn't be running the
waste up against the back of the blade.  Right?

Norm

P.S. Hey Bill, you got any good woodworking ideas for 'Toys for Tots' Xmas
gifts?

*******************************************************************************
norm@oliveb.OLIVETTI.COM

                 "Watch this space." -- Acme Advertising
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

yasin> I am a novice, interested in purchasing a decent set of router
yasin> bits.  I know it depends on the work I am going to do and also
yasin> on the budget.  But how about suggesting the general purpose
yasin> bits, I have seen lot of catalogs and cannot make my mind that
yasin> which bit is more useful then the others.  Experience is the
yasin> best teacher, so would appreciate if you can share the knowledge
yasin> of your experience.

The bits I use the most are my 1/2" and 3/8" rounding-over, 1/2"
dovetail and roman-ogee, but as you astutely observe, it depends on what
you're doing and the style of your projects.  In any case, get carbide
tipped bits, anything else is a waste of money unless you're only
working clear soft woods (and maybe even then).

Rob
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: equacken@encore.com (Eric E. Quackenbush)
Subject: Re: dado blade & birch
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 13:01:53 GMT

gonzo@tversky.psych.washington.edu (Rich Gonzalez) writes:

>I just bought my first dado blade (acu-edge, carbide tipped).  Have
>been practicing on pine, and happy with the results.
>Then I switched to some scrap birch I have in my shop.  It just chipped 
>away and the results were ugly (luckily I didn't get hurt).

>Why?   Is this one of the drawbacks of a wobble-type dado blade?  Is
>my 10" Delta Contractors not powerful enough to handle dado blades?
>Oh, I had it set at 3/4" dado--should I use narrower cuts with
>several passes? 


>-- 

>rich gonzalez
 
Yes, it is a drawback of wobble dados.  Was this solid birch or ply?  It
should not have been dangerous though.  If pieces were flying something
might be wrong with the dado.  Your contrators saw has plenty of power
but you must go slow.

Eric Quackenbush
Encore Computer Corp
equacken@encore.com
From: scotty@stargeek.wv.tek.com (Scott Zinser)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Squaring up a very old table saw.
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:34:26 GMT
Reply-To: scotty@stargeek.wv.tek.com
Organization: Citizen of the Galaxy

I have seen a lot of technical questions asked and answered about various types
of machine tool adjustments on this group, and I have a question of my own 
that some of you experts may help me with.

I have an old (20 years or so) Craftsman 10" contractors saw. It has seen a lot
of use, and quite a few repairs. I cuurently have a 2 hp motor mounted on it, 
and recently replaced the original pot-metal hand wheels with some nice die-
cast ones (McMaster-Carr). I also recently replaced the part of the under-
carriage that houses the arbor and bearings, because the teeth used for raising
and lowering the blade were all but stripped off of the old one. So here comes
the problem.

After replacing the "arbor-carriage", the saw blade is now slightly skewed. My
fence is aligned to the groove in the table used for the mitre guage, and in 
the past this always worked well. Now I find that the blade is skewed, so the
back of the blade is slightly closer to the fence than the front. This has 
the effect of causing the teeth at the back of the blade to actually be cutting
as they clear the surface of the table, and also causes a lot of friction and
blade heating.

I have tried to align the blade to the mitre guage groove by loosening the 
whole under-carriage from the table and adjusting it, but I just can't seem
to get it right. There isn't enough slop in the holes to allow me to adjust it 
as far as it needs be, and trying to hold it in place while re-tightening the 
bolts is also a problem. Has anyone else ever had to a re-align the blade on 
their table saw? If so, what methods did you use? I have access to a mill at 
work, I suppose I could bring in the parts and mill the bolt holes into slots
to give me the adjustment room I need, but should that be necessary? Any advice
would be appreciated.


-- 
  _    _    
 / \  / \
|  O |  O	Captain Z, ready for blast-off.
 \_/  \_/
\        /
 \______/
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Advice about workshop tools
Date: 6 Sep 92 03:55:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Sep4.121225.8765@icd.ab.com> korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg) writes:
>I am considering of giving up my half of the garage in order to
>build a workshop.  The question I have concerns the temperature cycling
>of the tools in a garage.  My house is a bi-level and has provision for
>heating, although I never turn it on.  My wife will of course not give up
>her parking spot thus I cannot seal off the garage door from frequent 
>openings.  Will tools such as a table saw tend to rust more frequently
>under this arrangement?  

Garage door opening won't make that much difference.  Here we get a day
or two during the spring where all exposed metal in the garage gets a
good load of dew on it.  With or without door opening.  Venting helps,
but doesn't eliminate the problem.  Making sure that your tools are coated
with a protector (eg: wax or Top-cote) helps a lot.  Some time ago
somebody suggested covering things with tarps and putting a small lightblub
(ie: 25W) underneath.  This sounded promising.  I may try it next spring.

This depends somewhat on your climate.  We get -40F here, and some days
the humidity is quite high.

I've kept my tools in a separate detached gravel floor garage for two
winters now.  I have had to clean the table saw top a few times, but
it hasn't been that bad.  A garage with a paved floor wouldn't be
as bad as mine (one of these days I intend to do something about that
and maybe get some heat too.)

Smaller tools should be kept in plastic or wooden toolboxes and kept
closed.  Keep sawblades in tupperware boxes or similar.

>Will the table saw "behave" or work differently when its cold
>(eg 38 degrees F) than warm (90 degrees F) ?

I've used my tablesaw as low as about 25F (-5C) and haven't had any
trouble. The big danger is snagging clothing, so they should be chosen
with care.  I tend to use sweatshirts and down vests when it's cold
in the shop.  Another hazard is having your hands get too cold.  You
shouldn't use power tools lower than about that, because the belts
will embrittle and may snap, and keeping your hands warm becomes
a problem.  Much lower and the metal of the blades themselves get
brittle.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking