HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stephane@xrtll.uucp (Stephane Deschenes)
Subject: Thanks !!
Organization: WCOM Public Access Unix - Toronto
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 04:27:24 GMT

I would like to thank everyone who helped me with my question
on raspberry beer.  You are all very helpfull.
I think I will try regular beer first as suggested.
But Frambozen isn't far behind.

How do you guys keep up with all those postings??
This is a very active newsgroup.  I want to read it all but I can't

Oh well....



-- 
========================================================
Stephane Deschenes     stephane@xrtll.uucp
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
========================================================
From: cvolle@uceng.UC.EDU (charles volle)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Where in Boston/Sudbury area?
Date: 25 Aug 92 18:57:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Cincinnati


	As a novice homebrewer I'm throwin' out this question to 
my fellow netters in the northeast.

	I'll be in Boston this weekend for a family wedding on Sunday.

	I'll have some time to get around in BOston/Sudbury area
and would like to know of a good brewpub establishment that I could
visit on Saturday.

	Any Ideas are appreciated!

	Cheers! 
	(no pun intended ;-)

	Chuck Volle	cvolle@uceng.uc.edu
From: us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi)
Subject: Re: Bottle caps
Organization: 3M - St. Paul, MN  55144-1000 US
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 17:01:59 GMT

From article <1992Aug25.155451.21463@sarah.albany.edu>, by jim@thor.albany.edu (SCHLEMMER JAMES A):
> In article <1992Aug24.184603.199@mmm.serc.3m.com> us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi) writes:
>>
>>1.  A two lever capper costs $16 and is more flexible than a bench
>>    capper.
> 
> I'm not sure I understand this one.  Perhaps you have an adjustable model.  

... stuff deleted ...

More flexible in the sense that you don't have to adjust the height
setting (as opposed to a bench model).  
My bottles vary in height but are all similar in lip and
top construction.  (I don't use champagne bottles).  I can adjust the
"throw" distance, that is the distance the crimping ring travels before
it stops but I've found that one setting will work in long necks, 
Bass bottles (short lips), and all others.  

-- 
Steve Anastasi	
smanastasi@mmm.com
St. Paul, Minnesota
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Subject: Re: beginner questions on trub, racking, blow-offnex
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 20:17:55 GMT
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before
Keywords: fermentation

In article <1992Aug27.130513.5360@terminator.cc.umich.edu> markg@umich.edu writes:
>
>OK, I have a question about this and I think it has happened to many of
>us novice brewers.  I had an OG of 1047, and after blowoff and active
>fermentation I was  down to 1032 (FG is supposed to be around 1020). 
>This is OK, but I expected it to be a little bit lower after the active
>fermentation.  I got the usual krauesen and high fermentation up until
>this point.  I also got the large amounts of sediment.  Basically, it
>stopped fermenting (a bubble every 1-3 minutes).  I reracked to a
>secondary to get rid of the trub and sediment (elapsed time was 3.5
>days) and it really never started again.  After 2 more days the SG was
>still about the same (1031).
>
>I assumed it would never ferment more and bottled.  The liquid was
>almost clear at the time and there were no signs of any bubbles in the
>fermenter.  Did I do the right thing?  How long does it take for the
>yeasts to multiply enought after transferring to a secondary and how
>much activity should one expect?

This is similar to what I'm getting.  After 4 days the activity had
definitely decreased so I transferred into the secondary, where activity has
been extremely slow.  After a further 4 days it's about the same - enough to
create isolated patches of froth on the surface but I get a bubble out the
fermentation lock only about once a minute or so.  In fact it's hard to know
whether this is due to CO2 being released or whether it's fermenting.  I'm
now wondering if I'd have been better off not transferring at all.  
>
>By the way, I learned an important lession for this brew.  Advanced
>brewers I sure know this already, so its for other beginners out there. 
>The trub must be removed by at least the time the krausen has disapeared
>or it will soon break down and create bad off flavors.  But it seemed OK
>to leave in while the active fermenting was taking place in the first 3
>days.  On the next brew I'm going to wait 1-2 hours after chilling (and
>before pitching) to get a break-line of protein sediment; then remove it
>and pitch.

This problem wouldn't happen since I didn't boil the kit.

	Peter
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: wewallac@watsol.uwaterloo.ca (Bill Wallace)
Subject: Re: WHINE: Sulfur aroma-what is?!
Organization: University of Waterloo, Waterloo, Ontario
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 17:06:54 GMT

If you have this problem (I had it in my last wine, although not as bad
as what you have from the sounds of it.)  Start by adding Ascorbic acid
(you can buy this at any wine making supply place.)  Then, every other day
for 8-10 days, stir the wine vigourously, shake it or whatever.  What you
need to do is aerate the wine.  This should stink when you do it, the
idea is that the sulpher smell leaves the wine when you do this.  The ascorbic
acid protects the wine from being damaged by the aeration (otherwise you
will destroy the wine.)

Next time you make wine, use only half as many campden tablets or less (down
to none.)  Then, aerate the wine once and use a yeast starter.  I find a
real easy way to make a good fast yeast starter is to take
lookwarm water (bacterially clean, whatever that means in your kitchen, I
just use tap water.)  Put it in a glass jar (the 500ml-1l peanut butter
ones are good.)  Add two-three tablespoons of white sugar, some yeast nutrient
if you have it and the yeast.  Let it sit for an hour and pour this into
the must (must:wort as wine:beer) This should give a much better start and
it will smell less.  At the end, use minimal amounts of campden tablets.  I
personally suggest not using any, but simply filtering it.  This give the cleanest
taste, and if the wine is fermented either to the point when no fermentables
are left or to the point where the yeast dies of alcohol poisoning then
you won't get any fermentation in the bottles.  (Actually, with wine bottles,
you don't really have to worry as long as the fermentation is REALLY slow since
some air will escape via the cork.)

Finally, let the wine sit for longer than average (this will help as well,
although I don't know why, but experientially it helps.)

Bill Wallace

PS For beer brewers: I don't know if the ascorbic acid trick works for
beer or not, but if you have a bit of sulpher smell in beer, if might work.
From: slk6p@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Water - another question
Date: 31 Aug 92 15:43:12 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

In article <1992Aug31.164131.3066@island.COM>, guido@island.COM (Guido Marx) writes:
> Here is another question about water.  My great-grandfather
> built a small cabin on a lake in the Tahoe basin.  This cabin's
> water supply comes from a small spring.  It is without a doubt,
> the best water I have ever tasted.  I have been toying with the
> idea of bringing my carboy and filling it up with water to brew
> a batch the next time I visit.  I am currently making extract
> brews.  Does anyone think this will be worth the hassle ?
> 
> Guido
Since you are an extracter, and don't really know what the h$%^ goes into
your beer anyway, why worry 'bout the water?
When you take the plunge and become are REAL ALL GRAIN BREWER like some
of us snobs, then you can worry about knowing what really goes into it!

(Sort of kidding here.  Anything you can do to improve you beer will help.
I sure wouldn't want to drive up there with a glass carboy for every batch,
now living in Tahoe and brewing there all the time.........

There are other things that will likely make a biggere difference.

			J. Wyllie   SLK6P@cc.usu.edu
From: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: cost of a carboy
Date: 1 Sep 1992 23:14:31 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: badseed.eng.sun.com

I just went to the local 'pure water' store and purchased a carboy(5 gallon) 
including water for < $15 US.  Now I just have to get the rest of the stuff
and I'm on my way.

---

	-Keith, the soon to be extract wimp.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: burgess@epas.utoronto.ca (A. Burgess)
Subject: shipping beer
Organization: University of Toronto - EPAS
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 15:55:02 GMT

Well, here's a sort of summary of what I've learned about shipping 
beer:

What I want to do is send some beer to friends of mine getting 
married in California, and I'm in Toronto.

First of all, Canada Customs informed me that it is just plain illegal 
(unsurprisingly) to ship homebrew across the border from Canada to 
the US.  Any alcohol must be with you as luggage when you cross.
Having learned this, and knowing that every package I've received 
from the states in the last year or so has been opened and inspected 
by customs officials, I decided to drive across the border to Buffalo 
with the beer and send it from there.  

I called the US post office, and was told that they are not allowed to 
transport alcohol, but that, to their knowledge, it is not illegal to do 
so.  So I called UPS and they told me that their "charter of 
operation" does not allow them to transport alcohol, but again they 
did not tell me that it is illegal.  Finally I called the Dept. of 
Interstate Commerce in Washington, and ... they didn't know if it was 
illegal either.  Their spokesperson suggested, helpfully, that I just 
send it by UPS without telling them what it is.  I love it when 
beaurocrats let their hair down and show they're just regular folks...

Anyway, I think I'll take her suggestion, after driving the beer to 
Buffalo.  Now, I did get a couple of responses from netters telling 
me about outfits that ship beer or wine by UPS or mail, but there 
does seem to be some question whether they tell the carrier what's 
being shipped.  I submit that either they do not tell them what it is, 
or they do and have some kind of exemption for being commercial 
operations.  I'm not going to risk getting the beer-of-the-month club 
in trouble by calling UPS and demanding an explanation, however.

I'll post again with anything I learn while carrying out my plan.  

Cheers.

Tony Burgess
From: mal@genrad.com (Mike A. Long)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Water - another question
Date: 2 Sep 92 13:02:31 GMT
Organization: GenRad, Inc.

In article <01050166.cgihqv@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>
>In article <1992Aug31.164131.3066@island.COM> (rec.crafts.brewing), guido@island.COM (Guido Marx) writes:
>) ... I have been toying with the
>) idea of bringing my carboy and filling it up with water to brew
>) a batch the next time I visit.  I am currently making extract
>) brews.  Does anyone think this will be worth the hassle ?


The earlier responders to this post seemed a bit worrisome to me.
My brewing supplies store suggested I use a spring around the corner
from them.   I had some "spring water" bottles laying around, so
I fill up 5 of them every time I pick up supplies.   I keep them in the
bsmt until I'm ready to brew (same day, or upto a week later).   I've
never had any bad flavors I could attribute to the water, and did notice
the "city water" flavor disappear.

DW,R,HAHB

#include "std_disclaimer.h"
#include "witty_sig.h"
Mike (Mikey) Long				mit-eddie!genrad.com!mal
GenRad, Inc.						mal@genrad.com
From: wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu (Robert F Dougherty)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: sterilization with a microwave?????
Date: 26 Aug 1992 01:47:17 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu


Can a microwave be used for sterilizing smallish, non-metallic items?

   I am seeking netwisdom about this idea I had (no flames please):

Things I'm (pretty) sure about:
1) A microwave heats by exciting water molecules
2) The less water in the oven, the faster it works (a slice of bread
   will heat in <20 seconds at High power)
3) All living cells contain water (including dormant bacteria)

Things I'm not so sure of:
4) Bacteria (and other nasties like fungi + wild yeast) will "explode"
   when the water inside of them is heated enough- I am not sure there
   is enough water in the cells during their dormant stage for it to
   work.  (My souce is an old Bio book and all it says is that the 
   cell loses some water when going dormant, it doesn't say how much 
   is left.)
5) A microwave will heat the water inside these micro-organisms and
   destroy their cellular structure within a matter of seconds (if there
   is no other water around to absorb the 'waves.)

   This makes sense to me.  The only problems I can speculate are these:
-a microwave oven might not "flood" the chamber with dense enough waves
 to ensure that all the tiny cells are bombarded
-there might not be enough water in some tough bacterial and fungal spores
 to burst the cell upon heating
-figuring out how much 'nuking is enough (to prevent worrying)

Perhaps others can contribute some knowledge so that I can figure out
if this would work.

If it does work, it would be great for sterilizing test-tubes and
petri-dishes for yeast culturing.)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Bottles for newbie
From: kmwheeler@ualr.edu
Date: 31 Aug 92 18:56:53 GMT
Organization: University of Arkansas at Little Rock

I decided to take the plunge!

I made the short trek to what I understand to be the only homebrew shop
in Arkansas.  For about $44 I got:
		   an intro wine book
		   an intro brew book
		   a book of wine recipes
		   a five gallon carboy
		   a seven and a half gallon fermentor
		   a rack off tube and siphon hose
		   a fermentation lock
		   some odds 'n ends

I have plans to return soon and get a corker and capper and some other
supplies.  (have to make multiple trips--a 5 gal. carboy takes up a lot
of space in an MGB)

I'm really looking forward to my first batch.  I understand that 5 gallons
is 40 some odd bottles.


So--What kind of bottles are best?   

They have a simple two lever capper for $18.  Their big
bench model (does everything) is $50.  I'm a poor engineering student, so
cost is an important factor.

What bottles have been most successful?  favorites/likes/dislikes/suggestions?

Thanks,

Keith
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: flar@iastate.edu (Bradley M Armitage)
Subject: Re: ROACHES!
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 22:11:35 GMT

In <1992Aug27.170617.4336@midway.uchicago.edu> hasn@midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes:

>Hopefully in the next month or so I'll get my act together a brew my first 
>batch.  One big question came to mind when I saw some rather nasty looking 
>creatures in my kitchen last night.  Does beer in a carboy attract these 
>critters?  Also should one fumigate when beer is brewing in the apartment?
>Just to add a personal note:  I HATE ROACHES!  I put up those combat poison
>stick ups but roaches are tough!  I HATE ROACHES!
>Any other solutions for getting rid of roaches would help as well.
>Thanks.

I HATE ROACHES, probably more than you, and THEY WILL TAKE OVER THE
WORLD SOON!!! :)

I have never had a problem with roaches being attracted to my carboy, it
should be a closed system excetp for the gas exchange through the loch,
and that shouldn't produce ROACH attracting agents.  If you spill, then
that might be a problem........Clean up! :)  As for getting rid of the
beasts, well my solution has always been to move!!! :)  No, really,
those Raid (tm) roach disk things work real well, for awhile anyway!!!!

Good luck!

*****************************************************************************
*       Spiritus Sanctus Anno Mundi:  Can you see me, are you near me?      *
* Can you hear me crying out for life?  Can you tell me, where's the glory? *
*     BLACK         **********************************      SABBATH         *
*******************  flar@iastate.edu (Brad Armitage)  **********************
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Rogue (was Re: Jalepeno Beer Recipe Wanted............)
Date: 28 Aug 92 20:10:30 GMT
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.

In article 58487@cc.usu.edu, slndw@cc.usu.edu () writes:
>The Rouge brewery in Newport OR makes a beer called Mexicalli Dead Guy.

Do you mean Rogue?  They're in Ashland OR.  (I was there a couple of weeks ago.)

Or is there a Rouge Brewery in Newport?  If so, I'll have to add it to
my next tour...

---
gak			Der Herr Buergermeister gibt bekannt, dass ab
gak@wrs.com		Donnerstag Bier gebraut wird und deshalb ab
attmail!gakhaus!gak	Mittwoch nicht mehr in den Bach geschissen
107/H/3&4		werden darf.
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Help on home made wine
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:11:25 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

I jsut started an eldeberry mead.  It was the first time i used
sulphites instead of boiling/pasteurizing.  I pitched a starter
of lalvin ec-1118 champagne yeast into my 19% pot. alchahol must
36 hours after adding 1.75 slightly stale camden tablets.  (they
had picked up some moisture somehow, so figguring they lost some
potency, i used more)

anyway, now I have a slightly slow ferment (which i can live with)
which is producing some large scummy bubbles on top.  They can be
about 2 cm in diameter, and are covered with brown scum.

Is this an infection?  or... does champagne yeast do this
sometimes.

BTW:  The starter was 8oz. of unhopped 1.040 wort for my 1 gal batch.

  thanks for any advise.
--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Adding Body [Re: eliminating roaches]
Date: 4 Sep 92 15:43:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.1992Sep4.154306.20991
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame

In article <01050166.clrcdt@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>
>I've inadvertently added a pound bag of flaked barley that was infested
>with weevils to a mash.
>
>The beer has lots of body, but I think that is mostly due to its starting
>gravity of 1.063.
>
>Hey, that's what the protein rest is for, right?  :-)

Legend has it that when Guinness used their old brewery no batch was
quite complete without the odd dead rat.  Is such an ingredient
Rheinheitgebot?  


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly (4274))
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Soda pop, etc.?
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:10:26 GMT
Organization: Cray Research Inc.

In article <1992Aug20.131228.5672@hou.amoco.com> tachaimov@hou.amoco.com (Tom Chaimov) writes:

   [stuff deleted]
>
>  2. How do y'all get your cooled wort in there?
>You can't exactly pour it in like you would a
>plastic bucket; and a siphon, besides
>being painfully slow, wouldn't introduce
>much oxygen.  Didn't I recently read here that
>a little splashing is good just before adding
>the yeasties?
>
>Cheers,
>Tom

Use the famous "GBF" method (great big funnel).  Put a funnel into your carboy
neck and pour away.  The cooled (make SURE it's cooled) wort will aerate
PLENTY by the time you're done.


Works for me!!!!

Matt

==============================================================================
kelly@spyro.cray.com                 |
                                     | Semper ubi sub ubi.
Opinions expressed herein are just   |
that.                                | -Julius Caesar
                                     |
==============================================================================
From: wayne@r-node.gts.org (Wayne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Tasted first batch: I'm Worried
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:18:33 GMT
Organization: Public Access UNIX Information System

In article <1992Aug23.204354.27383@news.iastate.edu> rjhoffma@iastate.edu (Richard J. Hoffmann) writes:
>First, it has a beautiful color (one can John Bull light and one of
>amber).  Beyond that, I made what turned out to be a big mistake by
>trying to be clever.  I put the hops (Fuggles) in a cheesecloth ball so I
>wouldn't have to strain them out.  So, I have not much hops flavor, but
>I accept that.  There is little carbonation and the beer tastes very
>cidery.  I know that cidery flavor is supposed to be from added sugar,
>but the only sugar I used was 3/4 cup corn sugar for bottling.
>
>So, aside from the lack of hoppiness, will this stuff get any better in
>the bottle?  Will the carbonation improve?  Will the cidery taste go
>away?  Should I pour it all down the drain now and hope for better luck
>with my second batch, which I started last night?  (The second batch
>includes crystal malt, better use of hops and a stab at making something
>like Anchor Steam, starting with a recipe I got from the Cat's Meow).
>

Give it a while, carbonation may improve a bit especially if it store it in a
warm room for 2 or 3 days. I've found that the character of my beer
changes as it ages with it taking up to a month in the bottle before I like
it.
-- 
Wayne Dawe
wayne@r-node.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jay Marshall)
Subject: Christmas Ales - need a recipe
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 18:59:26 GMT

I would like to start a spiced Christmas Ale pretty soon and am
looking for a recipe that approximates Sam Smiths Winterfest (I
think that's the right name, anyway).

I would prefer an all grain recipe, and something that is fairly
light on the cloves and ginger.

thanx

jay
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Marshall                       
marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov    
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(standard disclaimer)

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing