HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house




> I'm renting (for awhile) a mountain cabin that has a VERY OLD Servel
> propane refrigerator (model BN600B). .  I'd guess its from the 50s or early
> 60s.  Anyway, the problem is the pilot won't stay lit.  It typically works
> for a few days then goes out.  I've never actually SEEN in go out.
> 
> Judging by the rather feeble pilot flame, I assume it just needs a little
> more gas volume.  One possibility is that my system pressure is low, and
> just adjusting the tank regulator may help (if the fridge doesn't have a
> second regulator).  Does anyone know what 'standard' pressure for propane
> distribution is?  The second theory is that the fridge needs a tweak of its
> pilot 'throttle'.  The mechanism consists of a 'box' in the front which
> contains the pilot button but no obvious 'adjustment' screws.  It does have
> a few screw heads that look as if they may be covering a hole (which has an
> adjuster within).  The burner has no obvious adjustments either.  Since I'm
> renting, I hesitate to do my normal approach of"take it apart and find
> something that looks like an adjustment".
> 
> Any ideas out there?

	I am in no way a knowledgable in these matters. My Dad was in the
propane bussiness for close to 40 years doing deleviers and service. So my
limited experence is only from observation of what my dad did.  It is possible
that the orfice in the pilot light is becoming slightly clogged, it doesn't
happen often, but on an old applaince it is very possible that this could be 
the problem. A propane service man would have a orfice drill set to take care
of the problem if this is the problem. 

	I personally wouldn't mess with the regulator on the tank, since this 
also will effect the other propane appliances not just the pilot light on the 
fridge.

	If it was me (again) I would contact your landlord, to have them get 
someone qualified to fix it.

	If it is up to you to get it fixed, I would still seriously consider
a qualified person to do it. In the past 20 years there has around a dozen
cabins explode or burn down here on the eastern slope of the Rockies, that was 
blamed on propane.

	Most people that work for a propane comany are somewhat lower on the
pay scale (I know, I made more money my senior year in High School than my dad
did). If you know who the service man is from your propane distrubutor, give
him a call (very,very nicely at home) he may come out in his off hours, and 
fix it for less than the propane company would. 

Good Luck

Bob Hester
From: fred@network.ucsd.edu (Fred Criscuolo)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Advice Wanted: Home Security & Fiber Optics
Date: 21 Dec 1992 16:07:26 -0800
Organization: University of California, San Diego
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: network.ucsd.edu
Keywords: security

Well after going on and on about all the great resources available on the net,
my girlfriend is putting my claims to the test.  She is in the process of 
having a custom made home built.  Right now the framing is almost completed.
She is very security minded and would like some ideas on improving home 
security.  She intends to hook up to one of the local security services.
She is interested in suggestions for various alarms and detectors and locks.

The completed frame also allows us to easily prewire speaker wire and possibly
coax.  Recent press articles on the future role of fiber optics in the home,
makes adding fiber a possibility.  Would the fiber optic cables and connection
equipment available today still be useful in a few years?  I've seen fiber
optic connections on one brand of computer.  Do the cable terminals follow a
standard?  Where would be some good sources of information and possible        
suppliers?

Your suggestions on both subjects will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in
advance.

Fred
fcriscuo@ucsd.edu



-- 
Fred Criscuolo
fcriscuo@ucsd.edu                             (619) 546-4083 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes)
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Organization: Manes and Associates, NYC
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 01:17:32 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]

david.boyle (dwb@cbnewsb.cb.att.com) wrote:
: I can understand the balancing part, in fact I'm going to take a look to
: see if I require some modifications myself, BUT how can you bring half
: your house into darkness?  I only have 1 main breaker at the top of the box.
: Do you mean that the unbalanced side will trip all breakers on that side?

It depends.  If you have cartridge fuses on the main (increasingly rare
although I have them in my loft, which also has a breaker box) you'll
lose everything plugged into that leg.  If you're running a breaker on
the main it will trip both legs.
-- 
Stephen Manes					   manes@magpie.nycenet.edu
Manes and Associates/Commontech-NoHo		   New York, NY, USA  =o&>o

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: smierch@fun.com (Edward Smierciak)
Subject: Drywall Repair Questions
Reply-To: smierch@fun.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 14:36:54 GMT


---

Ed Smierciak

I`m planning on completely repainting the interior of the house (built in 1964) 
I just bought and thought I'd try to do something about two problems with the
walls:

1) Nails are backing out of the drywall. 

Is driving a ring-shank nail next to it, pulling it out and filling the hole
the only alternative?  Hadn't ring-shank nails been invented as of 1964?  
Or should I use drywall screws?


2) In a couple places where drywall sheets butt together, the horizontal
   joint is visible as a raised line on the wall.

What was this caused by?  Bad taping job?  Improper hanging?  Is there
anything I can do to correcte the problem?  See the cheezy ascii diagram of 
wall cross-section below:

|  |
|  |
|  |   <--- top sheet
|  |
|  |
|  |
|  |
|__\   <--- visible joint
|  /   
|  |
|  |
|  |
|  |   <--- bottom sheet 
|  |
|  |

Thanks in advance. 

Ed Smierciak
From: tdelahunty@gems.vcu.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Pellet Stove Info Sought
Date: 28 Dec 92 23:02:45 -0400
Organization: Medical College of Virginia

 
 
 
        Hello!  
 
        I am in the process of purchasing a pellet-fired fireplace insert 
        for my 3 year old wood frame construction 3200 Sq. Ft. two-story 
        home.
 
        My questions and concerns include:
 
               1. What type of inspection and preparation of the existing 
        fireplace is warranted?  We have burned about 20 fires per winter 
        over the last 3 years and have done no maintenance to the chimney 
        so far.
 
               2. How significant is the Carbon Monoxide risk from this 
        type of stove, and what needs to be done to eliminate it?
 
               3. Should I have the exhaust pipe taken up the full height 
        of the chimney, or just a few feet past the damper and sealed 
        around it at damper level, as the installer suggests?
 
               Overall, I have been impressed with the efficiency and 
        apparent safety of pellet stoves, but maybe I have been taken in by 
        advertising!
 
               Any comments and discussion will be appreciated!
 
                                     T.Delahunty
z
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Attic Insulation
Date: 22 Dec 92 13:59:46 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.

In article <92351.160109RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET (Robert Chambers) writes:
>I have a quick question....
>
>I want to re-insulate the attic in my house since when it was built they
>did a really cursory job and the stuff that is there is rockwool and some
>fiberglass that has decomposed.  Now my question is.. The roof joists are
>2 by 6"  What would be the best insulation to put in there and still have
>enough space for air/moisture to move around and go out the roof vents?
>
>Anyone done something like this and could give me a couple of pointers?
>
>The last thing I want to do is stuff too much in there so any moisture
>that may make its way in gets trapped and rots my roof from the inside
>out.
>
>Thanks
>
>Robert

    Since you say that you have an attic, I would say that you have no problem.
First check the vapor barrier under the existing insulation. Make sure you
close up as many holes in it as you can find. It sounds as though you may
have condensation problems if the present insulation has deteriorated. 
    After the vapor barrier is checked, you should be able to add insulation
to your hearts (or wallets) content. I didn't notice your location but there
are recommended insulation levels for various climates. In Northern states
the minimum recommended level is about R40. Further south you can reduce
the level to about R35 but even in warm climates it is a good idea to keep
to above R30 to help with summer cooling.
    Keep the insulation away from the eave vents and make sure there is
a space above the insulation for air to pass up to the ridge (or gable) vents.
    If you fill the 2 x 6 space between the joists and are using batts, run
the batts perpendicular to the joists to reduce the thermal bridging effect
of the wood.
    For a good article on this very subject, read the latest issue of 
Popular Mechanics. There are also many good pamphlets available from
government or commercial sources (at least here in Canada there are).

                                    Pete
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:16077 rec.woodworking:8795
From: bruce_eckstein@gateway.qm.apple.com (Bruce Eckstein)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking
Subject: Advice needed on Finish Nailers and Compressors!!
Date: 23 Dec 92 22:42:37 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc

I'm in the market for an air compressor and a finish nailer and was hoping
to get some advice on things that I should be looking for, and in particular 
what brands/models to buy or stay away from.

My initial use for this setup will be for installing about 1000 linear feet
of baseboard/casing/crown molding.  However I would like to be able to use 
the compressor for things like air ratchets, impact drivers, sanders, and the 
occasional small spray painting job.  

In the compressor arena the features that I think I'm looking for are.
  1. Portable or semi portable (ie. 50-70 lbs max, 4-10 gal. tank).
  2. Enough capacity to run MOST air tools (ie. 4 cfm @ 90 psi).
  3. Oil-less lubrication? (is this a must for finish work?)
  4. Tank size?  (what is the min. size for painting?)
  5. Current draw? (it should be able to run EASILY on a 20 A breaker)

Two models that I've seen that seem to fit the bill are the 1 1/2 hp 
Emglo/AirMate with dual vertical tanks (4 gallon total cap.) and the 2 1/2 hp 
Cambell-Hausfeld with an 11 gallon tank.  The Emglo (AM78-HC4V) is a true 
portable at around 50 lbs and can be carried with one hand.  It puts out 
5.1 cfm @ 40 psi and 4.1 cfm @ 90 psi and draws 16 A.  I've seen it for right 
around $300 mail order.  The Cambell-Hausfeld is more of a semi-portable  
size with wheels and handle to drag it around by.  It provides 6.5 cfm @ 40 psi 
and 4.5 cfm @ 90 psi with and 11 gallon tank.  This is a 2 1/2 hp model yet 
claims to only draw 13 A.  This model can be had from Home Depot for $278 
(plus CA sales tax).  This model is definitely an oil-less design but I'm not 
sure about the Emglo.  Are there any other brands, models or features that I 
should be looking for?

The choice of finish nailers seems to be even further unbounded than for that 
for compressors.  The ones I've looked at so far drive either 15 or 16 guage 
finish nails in lengths ranging from 3/4" to 2 1/2".  For the trim that I've 
nailed by hand, I used 1 1/2" finish nails, is this in the ballpark?  With 
nailers, I've also seen the term oil-less and convenionally lubricated used.  
Is this important?  How about variable depth setting, is this useful, or just 
a hack to make a cheaper tool work the way it should?  The models I've run 
accross so far are....

  1. Senco SFN-1 $250 mail order1"-2" 15 ga.
  2. Bostitch N60-FN2 ~$340 mail or Home Depot 1 1/4"-2 1/2" 15 ga.
  3. Hitachi NT65A $320 mail order 3/4"-2 1/2" 16 ga.
  4. Houbold 6416? $469 local store 3/4"-2 1/2" 16 ga.

Any others?

Thanks for your help!!!
Bruce Eckstein
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Insulation cutting tool?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 00:18:21 GMT

In article <1hnrc6INNal0@usenet.pa.dec.com> skk@gsg.pa.dec.com (Stuart Kreitman) writes:
>
>What's a good,cheap tool for cutting insulation? I was going
>to use a hedge shear, but it doesn't seem right. Is it best 
>to sharpen up a retired kitchen knife or similar?

I use a Stanley utility knife. It usually requires several passes - I
use a sort of hacking motion, unless I can put the batts up against a
backing board to cut them. Then it goes in one pass.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | It could probably be shown by facts and figures
George Patterson -  | that there is no distinctly native American criminal
                    | class except Congress.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Honeywell Electronic Thermostat
Date: 2 Jan 1993 20:15:51 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

 I recall others recently recommending a specific Honeywell
 model that 'learned' how long it took to heat your house, and
 reacted accordingly. I think it was a Chronotherm III, or such.
 My query is directed to those who have purchased it.

 a) What's the correct name?
 b) What did you pay for it, and where?
 c) How long a warranty did it come with?
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cthorne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Charles E Thorne)
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 20:11:22 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.175625.17689@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>My electrician, my wife, and I walked around the house indicating where
>we wanted light switches, light fixtures, outlets, telephone, and TV hookups.
>Then he started working out circuits and where they would be on the power
>panel.  He mentioned that he had to "balance" the panel.

>What does "balancing" a power panel mean?  Why is it necessary?  How
>is it typically accomplished?  Yes, I know I can ask my electrician,
>but the Net often has many gems of wisdom which I would not get from
>a non-talkative tradesman.  Thx.

Back to basis--The power drop to your house has three wires--1 110 plus,
a 110 minus plus a neutral.  Your main power panel has each side with the
110 and the neutral.  Your 110 breaker's operate from one side or the other
plus the neutral.  Your 220 breaker's operate from both sides.  

Now, say you have a 100 amp main breaker.  You will have more than a total
of 100 individual circuit amps.  The 220 circuits aren't a problem since
each one take half off of each side.  The 110 circuits need to be balanced
so that at any point only 50 amps is being used from each side.  Thus if
at any time, circuits which are totally on one side or the other are in
use, you could overload one side of the main breaker.  A good example would
be in the kitchen.  At any time, you might be using much of your whole house
power in that one room.  If all of the circuits are one one side, you would
overload that side.  It wouldn't cause a problem, but you would be noticing
a constant overload--and thus throwing breakers.  By balancing, this is
unlikely to happen.

Similarly, if you had a large shop, with a lot of electrical usage, you would
want about half on each side, otherwise you might find yourself constantly
having electrical outages.
From: chambers_k@cho006.cho.ge.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Removing clay from carpets, etc
Date: 29 Dec 92 11:12:41 EDT
Organization: GE Fanuc Automation, North America


Help! We need assistance removing clay marks/stains from light colored carpets
and furniture. This morning our cat made a dozwn red/brown paw prints on a new
raw silk covered chair!

Please MAIL responses and I'll summarize.

Thanks,

Keith Chambers                   
GE Fanuc Automation         
PO Box 8106
Charlottesville VA 22906 
(804) 978-5731                                                   Aisle Of Plenty
(804) 978-5620 (fax)   
chambers_k@cho000.cho.ge.com     "I don't belong here," said old Tessa out loud.
                                        "Easy, love, there's the Safe Way Home."
                     - and thankful for her Fine Fare discount, Tess Co-operates
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Air valves for steam radiators
Date: 22 Dec 92 16:04:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Dec21.132335.24514@mlb.semi.harris.com> peters@rastaban.rtp.semi.harris.com (Steve Peters x678) writes:
>In article <1992Dec20.174708.29852@sci.ccny.cuny.edu> sukenick@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (SYG) writes:
>>>>something is wrong with your system.  The hissing sound is normal.
>>
>>>deposits. Unscrew the valve and  soak it in a bowl of warm
>>>vinegar for half an hour. This is a 10 cent solution to your problem.
>>
>>A new valve is from $5 to $15 (or more).
>>
>
>I believe my problems are valve related, as my valves are REALLY old,
>and I just installed a fancy new programmable thermostat. I'm in the
>process of tracking down new valves.  They're really hard to find here
>in N.C.  A couple of valve related questions:  How do these things 
>physically work?  If adjustable ones are used, is there a procedure
>for adjusting them?  How should the valves behave?  I know they're 
>supposed to cut off at some point.. are they heat sensative or 
>moisture sensitive?   
>
I finally remembered the name of the excellent valves I use.  I use
Hoffman variable air valves. 

Perhaps I should write book, or perhaps just a FAQ on steam heat.  

Think of your air valves as light bulbs.  Think of your house as
needing to be lit.  Think of your radiators as walls.  Big room
( big radiator ) painted dark ( large heat loss ) requires big light 
bulb ( big air valve ).  Big room painted light requres less light
( smaller radiator ) and a smaller air valve.

How do you adjust the illumination so that your house is evenly lit
when all lights are on?  ( How do you make your house evenly warm 
when the furnace is on ? ) Its an iterative process.  Unfortunalty,
somewhat like light, the heating demands are not linear with respect to 
temperature, and change when one moves furniture, and open doors.

This is, perhaps, the main reason we have multi-zone FHW heat.  Most 
people are too stupid to understand and tune steam systems, thus
steam is "difficult" and "inefficient".  Tuning multi-zone FHW consists of 
setting a few thermostats.

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: purtilo@cs.umd.edu (Jim Purtilo)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Whole house humidifiers.
Date: 30 Dec 92 20:01:17 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <1992Dec30.184020.3845@nsisrv.gsfc.nasa.gov> john@ice.stx.com writes:
>I'm looking for a good Humidifier to install on my furnace.  I have looked
>at AprilAir and Sears versions so far. ....

I have an April Air unit, and am very pleased with it.  This is the one
you mention which has water flow over a fixed mesh, with the air circulating
through the mesh.  I have no experiences with the drum units for comparison,
but when I bought this, the company which sold it (and which sold other drum
style units, obviously not a Sears though) claimed that this unit was lower
maintenance and had less opportunity for water to collect and stand (breeding
molds and what-not, which then circulate through the house.)   After two years
with the unit, I find this to have been a credible claim:  I have not had to
do much to the unit, and, when it is turned off, water does completely drain
out of the base very well, leaving me with little worry about wierd growths.
It *does* need cleaning now and then, all of these will -- but I find that a
ten minute job with screwdriver and head scratching lets me get the main parts
out for a quick cleaning with bleach, once each fall before I start heavy use
of it (and I should do it in the spring when I'm done with it, but haven't
really gotten around to it....)  Minerals from water do collect on the mesh,
reducing efficiency, but this is solved by either soaking the mesh in a basin
of vinegar once a year to get crud off, or simply replacing the mesh --- after
two years, I just replaced mine rather than fool with the old one, a minor
expensive of $12.

If you have care in deciding just *where* to install it, then this is a fairly
straight forward unit to deal with.   Having seen it done once, I know I could
do it again myself.  But the real head scratcher is deciding on where to set
it up for best efficiency, and I do not feel the directions list all the 
considerations (only some of which I know about from having asked the guy who
installed mine for me.)  Issues include where to tap power for the unit, 
where to tap into your water line, where to drain off the excess water (and
you will have a lot), and where in line to place the unit (supposedly there
are advantages and disadvantages to placing it both before and after the 
furnace proper).  You may just want to get a company to do it for you for a
few bucks, then save your own time and also get a better guarantee of correct
installation.  [John, I notice you are down the road from me, you might just
call the place we got ours and get a quote .... Suburban Service, based down
in Bowie.  I've keep a maintenance contract with them for a few years too,
on the whole unit, and been very pleased.]

Jim

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bobpassl@boi.hp.com (Bob Passell)
Subject: Re: Corporate-owned housing
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 15:03:18 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Thanks to all who responded - if I look at corporately-owned
housing and make an offer, I'll assume that it's been on the 
books for a day short of their maximum holding period and
adjust the price accordingly.

Bp