HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Carbs, Carbs, and more Carbs...
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 13:22:13 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: Carb

 Since you have a 2BBL, switching to a performance aftermarket carb involves
more than the carb itself; a new intake manifold is also necessary (don't
buy one of those 4BBL -> 2BBL adapters). Holley makes a 2BBL replacement, 
and you could always get a rebuilt original type. 

 I'd check the choke operation first.
-- 
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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: BLOCK LEARN?
Date: 15 Nov 92 14:48:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> The 1991 Chevrolet Truck Emissions Manual (Helm) in the (Electronic
...
-> How is the "block learn value" generated?
-> How is it used by the ECM?

 The block learn value is the tweak factor the ECM uses to adjust for
things like carbon buildup, crummy gas, clogged cat or air filter, etc.
The GM block learn is flexible enough to adjust for different injectors,
hotter cam (until you get enough overlap to freak the O2 sensor) and so
forth.  It's quite a nice system.
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Stumbling Chevy
Date: 17 Nov 92 19:37:21 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     Have you checked the air valves to see if they are adjusted to the
correct tension. I believe that the `default' setting is one and a half
turns from the no-tension state.
    I have heard that loss of tension on the air valve can cause a
stumble on acceleration.
    
    Your situation may require a slightly different tension but since it
was not original equipment you probably won't find any specs for your
particular carburetter setup so you might have to set it to default and
then tweak it.

                              Pete
From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 22:17:32 GMT
Subject: Re: Engine swap in Jaguar
Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Actually, I thought Chevy V8 installations into Jags was fairly common.
The reliability must greatly improve.  I too have an '84 XJS, and if and
when it ever goes south, I'd consider a hot V8 as a replacement.  I
wonder if one could get a motor from a ZR-1 in there?

Side note-

My XJS quit the other day.  After towing it home, I finally diagnosed it
as the "Lucas Ignition Amplifier," which is actually a GM ignition
control chip in a Lucas "made in England" black box with a few more 
components.  The Jag dealer wanted $260 for a new module; I went to 
Kragen and got a replacement chip for about $21.  Now I'm laughing 
all the way to the gas station.

Cheers-

Paul Welch

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: shc1@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (culp,steven)
Subject: Re: 1990 Toyota Tercel Problems
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 16:14:41 GMT

This is my first time posting anything on the network, so if I
screw up, please bear with me.

My wife's '90 Tercel stopped running recently.  My mechanic (I've
been going to him for awhile and trust him.) said the source of
the problem was a faulty connecting rod.  When the rod broke, it
damaged some other stuff (real technical, I know!) and we ended up
putting in a new short block/engine (He recommended doing that over
rebuilding the connecting rod, bearings, etc.)  He also said that
it was not run low on oil, as the defective rod and bottom of the
crankshaft did not have any burn marks on them.

Has anyone else experienced Tercel's having this problem?

Thanks for your help,
Steve.
From: sddascomb@ucdavis.edu (Steve Dascomb)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: After market fuel injection
Date: 20 Nov 92 19:42:12 GMT
Organization: UC Davis
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1b2

Somebody on the net metioned that Holly had a fuel
injection system called 'Projection'.  Does anyone else 
know more about this system or other systems, the cost
of the systems, and what's included in the packages.  I
would like to put one of these systems on a small block
Chevy.
		Steve Dascomb, sddascomb@ucdavis.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender)
Subject: Re: Different synthetic oil Brands!!!
Organization: Evans & Sutherland
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 19:33:20 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.045458.14523@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>, awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Clarkkent) writes:
|> What's the difference between commercial type synthetic oils 
|> like Mobil 1, Castrol syntech, etc. and Amsoil?  I happened
|> by that mall store 'As Seen on TV' yesterday, the manager tried
|> to sell me Duralube.  I stumped him when I asked if I could
|> mix it with my synthetic, so after calling the company,
|> he said 'ok with any synthetic except Amsoil' 
|> Any thoughts?
|> 

I seem to remember that Amsoil has been available for a long time
(much longer than Mobil-1 for example).  A fellow that distributed
it (long ago) told me that Amsoil was not petroleum-based, but 
produced from soya-beans or cottonseed or some such.  I do not know 
if this is correct, but if it is, may explain the incompatability.
As far as I'm aware, all other synthetics are "manufactured" using
light petroleum distillates.

BTW, using cottonseed oils is not exactly a new idea.  My father
recalls during WWII that the oil he used in military equipment
was derived from cottonseed.

-- 
Steve Bender
Evans & Sutherland
(801) 582-5847
Salt Lake City, UT 84108

sbender@dsd.es.com
From: nash@steer.sdsu.edu (Ron Nash)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Honda Civic dies suddenly when starting
Date: 18 Nov 92 17:36:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: ucselx.1992Nov18.173604.512
Distribution: usa
Organization: San Diego State University

In article <1992Nov18.132621.6991@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:

> Newer cars with electric fuel pumps have the fuel pump power gated by oil
>pressure to prevent the pump from running when the engine is off. This is
>bypassed during starting. If the new fuel pump does the same thing, have a
>look at the fuel pump power lead during and immediately after starting. 
>If power goes away when you quit cranking, suspect a bad fuel pump relay
>or oil pressure sender (or no oil pressure). Is the oil/check engine light
>on before it dies?

Also note that most cars built in the 1980s and 90s have an inertial sensor
switch that cuts off the fuel to the engine if the car is in an accident.
This switch (relay) can go bad causing the car to die at random times.
My wife's '84 Nissan pickup had this problem.


-- 
             ,--, | Ron Nash	  San Diego State University
       _ ___/ /\| | nash@sdsu.edu
   ,;`( )__, )  ~ |  
  //  //   '--;   | Gin-N-Tonic   Learning to be an endurance horse
From: darrellm@pogo.wv.tek.com (Darrell McGinnis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help on NO START!!!
Date: 17 Nov 92 20:18:35 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Wilsonville,  OR.

In article <4f2FTgm00iUzE1qZFu@andrew.cmu.edu> kt1a+@andrew.cmu.edu (Kung-Jen Tu) writes:
>Hopefully, I can gether your thought to identify the cause of NO START
>of my car - an 84 Toyota Camry.
>
>My car was running well except that once in a while I could not start
>the car for unknown reason (happened 6-7 times in the last two and half
>month).  The first time it broke down with no start, I had it towed to a
>garauge.  They replaced the fuel pump.  The car ran well for a while and
>then it broke down again (no start).  I had it checked at the same
>garauge.  When the mechanics  was diagnosing, the car started suddenly. 
>They could not find the problem, and thought that the fuel system,
>battery, and plugs should be fine.  They also suspected that it could be
>a problem with electrical system.  
>

two brownie points for their suspicions...

>
>Supposely, the first switch of key (before igniting the engine) should
>lighten all the signs, such as check engine, battery, door, fasten
>seatbelt, etc.  If the 'check engine' is not lit, I know I won't be able
>to start the car.  This is the only symptom that I found.
>
>The way I dealt with it is to open the hood and close it heavily (trying
>to shake the car body).  The 'check engine' sign normally came back
>after a few try, and I can run the car again.  I have been using this
>low-tech method to deal with my car in the past few months.
>

I'd also point to an electrical problem.

Typically, the first switch is a "lamp-check" to verify all indicators.

The fact that the check-engine lamp is not lit is a clue :)

Obviously, (from your description) there is an intermittent connection
or component in the ignition/engine-control system.

Next time, instead of slamming the hood, tap individual components &
watch when the check-engine lamp lights up.

First tap/check connections to distr, coil, ign-module, computer-box &
associated relays also spark wires (esp dist-cap to coil wire) & fuel
pump & cut-off(if carb'ed) or injectors(if injected)

If you can't identify problem then...

check fuse box for solid fuse connections.

if no luck...
Then verify spark at one of the spark plugs.
if no spark, check spark at coil
if spark then inspect dist-cap & rotor & wires
then check 12V to coil primary & associated wiring
else check computer.

if spark then its the timing or the fuel delevery.

check an injector for fuel squirting (easier for mechanical injectors)

if fuel squirts then the problem lies in the computer controlled
spark adv.


Likely, you won't see a spark if fuel is getting in, or
you won't see fuel if a spark occurs.

Diagnosing a computer related failure is more involved but
very do-able with a good book & VOM.

>
>Kung-Jen Tu

good hunting..
darrell

--------
Darrell McGinnis				darrellm@pogo.WV.TEK.COM
Tektronix, Inc., P.O. Box 1000, MS 63-356
Wilsonville, OR 97070
(503) 685-3285
--------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Subject: Engine swap in Jaguar
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:34:56 GMT

Has anyone out there done an engine conversion on a Jaguar 
XJ-S?  I'm rebuilding a 1976 Jaguar XJ-S Coupe'.  If the 
fuel injection computer is defective the replacement item 
is over US$1000!  Same with the fuel injectors.  If one or 
two are bad, at US$129 each I can stand it but if I need 
to do a wholesale replacement of 12 injectors, I need an 
alternative.  Before the purists get upset, this is not 
like restoring an XK-120 or and E-type where the value of 
the restoration is based on the authenticity of the job.  
I have an authentic 1984 XJ-S.  What I want to do is take 
this '76 XJ-S, that I got for a song, and make it a pretty, 
running car for sale to someone who wants a dependable, fuel
efficient(ish) sporty car.  I'll use the '84 if I want to 
drive 150 mph!  So again, any advice on conversion to, say, 
a Chevy 350?

Rick

------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /
My opinions are my own, untill they're worth something, at
which point they become the property of my employer...
------------------------------------------------------------
From: 00bndaniels@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Info wanted on GM 100 m.p.g. car !!
Date: 19 Nov 92 18:34:28 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

I once read an article on a car that GM built that got 100 m.p.g.
Does GM plan to build this car soon Why or why not?   I was 
really intersted in the project because it just seems like a 
great idea.  One reason is that the car would get good fuel 
economy.  The second is that it would lessen our need for 
imported oil (Something our country needs to work on).  I car is 
made out of long lasting composite materials.  I was designed and 
built in a short time period (The company needs to do more of 
this).  The big drawback is see not is high cost, which could be 
driven down by mass production.
Any feedback or coimments are great appreciated
Barron Daniels
student 
Ball State University
Muncie, Indiana
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: woodstock!scatlin@mcnc.org (Scot Catlin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Carb Identification...
Keywords: How?
Date: 19 Nov 92 14:45:38 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP


        I have a 1976 Chevy Malibu SW that needs a carb rebuild.  I
have the Chilton manual, and have tried to determine from the pictures
in the manual which carb I have. (The manual covers all Chevy midsize
from 1964-1988!!)  It says that the carb should be labeled, but I
can't find a label or number anywhere on the #@$& thing!  From what
the manual says I think it's either a Rochester 2GV (2-bbl) or a 
Rochester M4MC (4-bbl)

        My question:  Is there a simple way to tell which one of there
carbs it is?  Can you tell if a carb is a 4-bbl just by looking?  If
anyone out there has this car, or a 1976 Chevy vehicle with the 350
V8, can you tell me the difference, or what yours has, and what it
looks like?

        BTW...  I use the car daily, so removing the carb just to find
out what it is would be highly inconvenient.  I like to take it off
just to rebuild it.

        You can e-mail me at the address below, or just post to share
your knowledge with the entire net.  Thanks in advance.

                        Scot
                        ----

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_______________________________________________________________________
|Scot Catlin            .  .  .  ************************.  .  .  .  . |
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|Internet: woodstock!scatlin@mcnc.org   .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .|
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: front brake job, need tip
Date: 20 Nov 92 23:29:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  !@#Subject: front brake job, need tips. !@#Date: 17 Nov 92 23:34:17
  GMT
DM!@#I've got a 84 ford tempo with a brake problem. !@#The front
  driverside caliper (front discs) wont !@#release all the way.

DM!@#I'm looking at rebuilding the caliper. !@#the rebuild kit costs
  only $5 which I assume is all the !@#rubber stuff.

if the piston is dull black(plastic) then BUY rebuilt calibers...if
steel pistons then pull the caliber off one side at a time and then step
on the brake till piston comes out...or use compressed air applied to
the hose inlet...you can use a old tire stem to plug the line...lacking
that clamp the hose with visegrips(not recommended). Buy several cans of
brake clean to clean 'em with.. DON'T USE ANY OIL BASED cleaner..thats
it...
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
                             
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: RFI: Regappable Platinium Plugs
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 17:34:57 GMT

In article <17691@mindlink.bc.ca> Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum) writes:
>> schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
>>
>> Msg-ID: <1992Nov19.203915.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov>
>> Posted: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 02:39:1
>>
>> Org.  : Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
>>
>>   Would anyone know of platinium plugs that are regappable? The Bosch I
>> tried are next to impossbile to regap and lack sufficent electrode
>> material.
>> I've experimented with regular plugs and found with the MSD system I could
>> open the gap to .09-.1". I would like to experiment next with some
>> platinium
>> type plugs.
>>
>> thanxs
>>
>> kris
>>
>
>NGK sells a couple of types of platinum plugs. they sell one that looks like
>a regular plug except for the center electrode which is platinum and a VX
>platinum plug which is cheaper since  it is more generic and needs gapping to
>a particular application.
> Hope that helps
>



Guys, I'm sorry to break your dreams, but Platinum plugs perform and last no
longer than regular plugs do.  If you don't replace them at regular intervals
you are both foolish and wasting gas and power.

-Experience speaks
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: essbaum@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Alexander Essbaum)
Subject: Re: Auto in neutral at light
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 01:42:54 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <Holt-161192141334@cheme-kinetics.cheme.washington.edu.>, Holt@cheme.washington.edu (Brad Holt) writes:
|> 

|> > In article <Holt-131192095050@cheme-kinetics.cheme.washington.edu.> Holt@cheme.washington.edu (Brad Holt) writes:
|> > 
|> >    Ok I just got my first automatic transmission vehicle (for towing).
|> >    Question:  Suppose I come to a long stop light. After I have stopped s
|> >    hould I just leave it in drive or put it in neutral?
|> > 
|> > 
|> > Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF
|> > Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055
|> > The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect 
|> > those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.
|> >  
|> 
|>    I will try again.  I was curious if there was more wear and tear
|> in shifting into and out of drive then just leaving it in.
|> 
|>   (I apologize to GMR - I had good experiences when I worked there - I
|> just did not appreciate the tone of the response.)

shifting it back into drive from neutral will cause (a tiny bit of) wear
on one of the clutch band thingies while idling in drive instead of neutral
may slightly increase the fluid temp in the tranny (from turbulence in the
converter).  i can't think of anything else possibly significant.  strain
on the drive train while idling in drive is real small compared to strain
under acceleration.

just leave it in drive.

axel
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Sunday, 15 Nov 1992 22:05:53 EST
From: T. Peter Leone <IO20823@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subaru question

Well, I have had this same problem with my 86 GL 4WDSubaru. It seems like it
only happens when it is cold outside (below 40 deg. F). I have no clue as to
why it happens! It does go  away after the engine warms up. Like what was said
before, the engine does seem to be running smoothly, the tach indicates this. I
t's just that there is no accleration. HELP!

                                  Peace,
                                         Peter Leone
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Subject: Re: Beretta Dash Lights and headlamp chime.....help
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 18:08:03 GMT
Reply-To: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester Mn

In article <1992Nov19.122535.8997@ac.dal.ca>, rharrie@ac.dal.ca writes:
|> Here is one for everyone.....
|> 
|> I have an 88 Cheverolet Beretta GT with the digital instrument cluster.
|> The problem I am havi8ng is very simple.  When my headlights or parking lights
|> are switched on, the8 lights for the instrument cluster, the heater/fan control
|> lights, the gear selector lights and the headlight warning chime do not work.  
|> When, the headlights or parking lights are not on, the digital cluster lights 
|> work.
|> 
|> I've probed around quite a bit, and elminated the obvious.  It's not a 
|> broken switch and the fuse is OK.  BTW, this began as an intermittent problem,
|> but now seems to be8 permenantly broken!
|> 
|> Has anyone else had this fixed?
|> 
|> Could it be in the headlight/door/ignition key chime box, or is that just 
|> passive?
|> 
|> There must be a place where the circuit gets turned on, but I cannot find 
|> where.
|> 
|> Please email directly,
|> 
|> Robert Harrie
|> RHARRIE@AC.DAL.CA
|> Dalhousie University
|> Nova Scotia, Canada

I have the same year Beretta with a digital dash.  Please post solutions
to the net as I'd like to learn from others rather than have the problem
happen to me and be lost.

Thanks
-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.antique
From: scottv@rs6321.ecs.rpi.edu (Vaughan K. Scott)
Subject: Re: Triumph Spitfire idle problem
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:31:32 GMT

dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu writes:

>SD Bateson (u1a70@keele.ac.uk) wrote:
>: 
>: Hi everyone -
>: 
>: Over the past few months I've been sorting out various problems with the
>: 
>: latest old clunker that I saved from the scrapyard. The car is a Triumph
>: 
>: Spitfire MKIII, but has been converted to rally spec, then allowed to
>: 
>: degenerate somewhat. I've given the engine a tune-up, and after sorting
>: 
>: out various elusive gremlins, got her running smooth, except for the
>: 
>: idle.
>: 
>:       The engine is a 1300, probably running a stock cam etc, but
>: 
>: with HS4 carburettors (From 1500 MKV Spit) and a Triumphtune 4-2-1
>: 
>: manifold leading to a 2" straight through exhaust and silencer.
>: 
>: Although it idles ok at first (at about 850-950 rpm), after about 
>: 
>: ten seconds the idle starts to fall, and the engine stalls, unless I
>: 
>: rev it a bit. After another ten seconds of idling, the same happens.
>: 
>:      I'd really appreciate any help on this, as it's driving me mad,
>: 
>: and continuosly blipping the throttle at traffic lights is making 
>: 
>: me a target for boy racers and their traffic lights grand prix....
>: 
>: Thanks
>: 
>: Simon Bateson
>: Keele University
>: England
>: 
>My suggestion to you is to put a 289 in it.  After all it's a triumph!

	Sounds to me like you got yerself some vacuum leaks.  I have a couple
TR-7's, and have had the same problem with the one on the road.  I noted
considerable improvement after resealing the intake manifold gasket (still
gotta do the carb mountings).  In other words, I recommend you take off the
carbs, intake manifold, and rubber carb mountings, and reseal them with
Ultra-Copper gasket maker by Permatex (though I don't know if you can get
it over there).  Good Luck!

Vaughan Scott
scottv@rpi.edu






Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tvtjet@eua.ericsson.se (Jorgen Eriksson)
Subject: Re: Subaru question
Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 14:09:34 GMT

ai257@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda L. McConnell) writes:

...zap...
>Have an intermittent problem with my 1987 Subaru GL.  It has
>stumble or anything, it's like it's not accepting the gas
>when I try to accelerate.  It has never stalled.  We had a
...zap...

If this only happens during warm up,
it seems like some kind of trouble 
with the cold start system. If the 
-87 US Subaru has a carburettor,
then check out the choke function.
If it's a fuel injection dito 
(type Bosh K or L jetronic etc) it
can have something to do with the
auxiliary air valve (don't think this
is the right term, but i hope you know
what i mean = choke function ).

If none of the above mentioned is
correct, well in general it can
indicate a very lean mixture, due
to some air leak.

	Best regards,
		Jorgen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech