HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:25:59 GMT
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems

In <64350004@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> garyg@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Gary Gitzen) writes:

>Hi,

>Does anyone know of a mail_order source for 90/130W H4 headlight bulbs?
>The brightest I can find locally or mail_order are 80/100W, and I'd really
>like to have the extra wattage.

For off-road use only I hope, think about the poor sucker coming the
other way. Besides, I thought something in the order of 55W was the
legal limit? No bloody wonder I get home near blind every night!

>Thanks for any help.

Don't thank me, I wouldn't help anyone find bulbs like that, now a
source of 12 guage shotgun shells to blow them out I might conssider.

>Gary <garyg@cup.hp.com> San Jose, CA

Bob.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Greg Butler)
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 03:28:40 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland

In article <13804@limey> sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff) writes:
>
>    I just replaced the wheel bearing assembly on my '90 Cavalier. 
>[...]you don't just replace the bearing
>but the complete hub unit ($114 Cdn inc. tax :-(). 
>[...]everything went fine
>until I tried to replace the seal and o-ring in the steering knuckle.
>[..] I can't move the drive shaft back far
>enough to allow access to the rear of the steering knuckle without removing
>the knuckle itself.
>
>                                 Pete

The solution to this problem on most cars is to pry the lower control arm
down away from the steering knuckle, thus allowing you to swing the 
knuckle away from the axle shaft far enough to pull the end of the 
shaft completely free from the knuckle.
You will have to loosen the lower ball joint in order to allow you to
pry the control arm down.  There is probably a good tool for doing this,
but if you just hit it with a hammer real hard, it will usually loosen
right up. Hit the side of the knuckle where the shaft of the ball
joint comes up through it.  Repeat until you can pry the arm down
with a crowbar or other large prybar. 
Be careful not to hit the dust boot.  Of course, remove the 
nut first.  By doing it this way, you avoid the problems involved in
completely removing the knuckle, but from my own experience, you will
almost definitely need a helper to pry down on the control arm while 
you remove and reinstall the control arm.  Also, be careful not to
pull the knuckle too hard, or you may damage the brake caliper flex
line.  Also, if you jack the other wheel off the ground while you
are working, and turn your key to unlock your steering wheel,
you will be able to turn the knuckle back and forth to allow the
best angle of attack.  Let me know if any of this is helpful.

	Greg.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: How to store a car for 6 months
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 23:20:02 GMT

In article <C0GB4s.5B9@ns1.nodak.edu> csmith@plains.NoDak.edu (Carl Smith) writes:
>In article <C0G172.4L0@icon.rose.hp.com> dsantos@hprnd.rose.hp.com (David Santos) writes:
>>    - Set some mouse traps in and around the car to prevent those little
>>      critters from eatting you upolstery. 
>
>Nibbles in the upolstery are the least of your concerns with mice.
>They have the bad habit of building nests in your heater/ac air
>passages, and when you fire the car up for the first time after
>many months you are hit by the intolerable stench of aged mouse
>droppings and possibly dead decomposing mouse carcasses.

	worse than that, they seem to love to nibble on wiring
insulation.  The smell is bad, but trying to troubleshoot
a wiring harness with hundreds of little open circuits...


--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subject: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Date: 8 Jan 1993 18:47:44 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> -> at extremely high and low temperatures. Also, they are
> -> supposed to be cheaper.
> 
>  That's nothing unusual.  The US Army Tank Command has done a wad of
> research on what they call an "adiabatic"  (I know it's not the correct
> word, but it's what THEY call it) Diesel that runs without any external
> cooling at all.  TACOM used to publish papers about it with the SAE.
 
"Adiabatic" is the correct term.  It refers to a thermodynamic 
assumption that the heat engine process has no external transfer 
of heat.  It is not really achieved in a real system, but 
efficiency is gained if heat losses to a cooling system are 
minimized.  Modern engine technologies include the use of ceramics 
and other low thermal conductivity (ie space shuttle tile-ish) 
materials to contain the heat in the combustion gases, thereby 
reducing the need for large cooling systems and increasing fuel 
economy.

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drew@ophelia.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:10:10 GMT

Hate the crap.  

I drive a 1970 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40, with a 350 chevy under the hood.  
Needless to say, combining something with the aerodynamics of a piece 
of plywood and what some would consider a large engine (IMHO, 
500+ cubes are large, but I digress) doesn't make for the best mileage.
To make up for this, and accomodate the high altitude driving that 
I do (Nothing below 5000 feet, sometimes unpaved mountain passes at 
12,500) the primary side of my carb is jetted lean.  So at 5000 feet, the
leanness conditions caused by this crap gives me starting problems 
and make driving hell until things get really warm (hell defined as 
a little too hard on the gas, and I get misses and back fires from
things beening lean.  Even during cold portions of the fall, without
this crap, WOT accelerations worked when it was cold).  At 9000 feet,
things are tolerable, but I live at 5000...
-- 
Boycott AT&T for their absurd anti-BSDI lawsuit. | Drew Eckhardt
Condemn Colorado for Amendment Two.		 | drew@cs.colorado.edu
Use Linux, the fast, flexible, and free 386 unix |  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stankus@leland.Stanford.EDU (John J. Stankus)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Organization: Department of Chemistry, Stanford University
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 19:40:19 GMT


     I missed the first part of this thread, so forgive me if this has
been discussed.  The oxygenated fuels are supposed to be better for emissions,
but cause a loss in mileage.  Does the emission improvemnet offset the
gas mileage decrease?  I guess what I am asking is what is the comparision
between  emissions/MILE of each of these fuels?  This seems to be more
pertinent than idle emissions for each.


John J. Stankus				Chemistry Department
stankus@leland.stanford.edu		Stanford University
I really should be working on that dissertation now.
From: slhmz@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oh No!  I need the doctors advice!
Date: 10 Jan 93 23:30:47 MDT
Organization: Utah State University


Doctor!  Doctor!  Help me!

Symptoms:

1.   Extreme loss of power when accelerating or starting out in first.

2.   Nearly stalls (but hangs on) when shifting from first to second, or
     when you floor the accelerator.

3.   Horrible smell whenever the engine has to work to get up a steep hill,
     or over a snow drift, etc...
     The smell is not like oil, but more like the smell of a vacuum cleaner
     burning it's belt.  Smell comes from the engine as well as in exhaust.

4.   Extremely poor engine preformance at low idles and in 5th gear.
5.   "Check Engine Light" comes on occationly, setting code 23

What is wrong?  What is making that smell?

The car?  1987 Pontiac Sunbird SE  2.0L 4cyl.  Throttle body FI

Thanks!

--
Travis Carter

    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dsantos@hprnd.rose.hp.com (David Santos)
Subject: Re: My Brakes Squeeeeek!
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 13:54:35 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Mike Wagner (mjwagner@bsu-cs.bsu.edu) wrote:
: I own a 1981 Mazda RX-7 and have recently had the brakes replaced.  Ever
: since I have had the brakes replaced, 90% of the times that I stop, the
: brakes scream (enough to give me a headache!).  It wouldn't be so bad if
: it was a small squeak, but it is LOUD...  I have had it looked at x2 now
: and no-one has fixed it.  
: 
The squeeking may be due to a change in the material used to make the
brake linings.  I remember reading an article that mentioned a change from
asbestos to some other material for health reasons.  If your rotors/drums
were engineered for use with asbestos linings and now your brake linings
are made of some other material this might cause the chatter.

Just a guess.

Dave
From: c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: C3 ECM schematics available somewhere?
Date: 11 Jan 93 19:03:04 GMT
Organization: Delco Electronics Corp.

In article <93Jan11.101544pst.11545@alpha.xerox.com> Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com writes:
>
>	"I was wondering if the schematics for GM's C3 2.8PFI ECM's are
>available somewhere?"
>
>I wouldn't mind getting ahold of that information myself (or better yet, the
>P4).  However, judging by how tight GM is even with their lousy serial data,
>I'd say you've got a lot better chance of finding out what Geroge Bush knew
>about Iran and the Contras.  Let us know if you have any success.  Good luck!
>
>			- Michel
>
>denber.wbst147@xerox.com

Gee, maybe we should create a few news groups for you folks, such as

	rec.autos.ecm.sources.gm
	rec.autos.ecm.sources.ford
	rec.autos.ecm.sources.chrysler

: : : : :

Could you mail me a few sources for whatever is that you're working on
at Xerox? I'll even accept xerox copies....

Spiros
-- 
Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Technology, Delco Electronics       (317) 451-0815
GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: iainw@bnr.ca (Iain Woolf)
Subject: Alternator not working (VW Polo), please advise...
Organization: BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:47:20 GMT

The alternator on my 1978 VW Polo is no longer working! The car,
although about 15 years old, has only done 56,000 (genuine) miles.
Apparently a common fault with old VWs is that oil occasionally leaks
onto the alternator (looks like it has on mine) - is this to blame?

I would like informed advice from people as to whether it is worth me
taking it to bits, cleaning it up and fitting some new brushes or just
to admit premature defeat and take it in for an exchange alternator.

If you are not familiar with this car, it is the VW smaller than the
Golf (is this what you call a Rabbit in the States/Canada?)

Thanks in advance,

       Iain.

PS. this has also been posted in rec.autos.vw (but I had problems with
cross posting, so had to do it manually :-( )
-- 
 --------------------------------------------------------------------
 Iain Woolf,                      | My opinions are just that - MINE!
 BNR Europe Ltd, Maidenhead, UK   |
 (0628) 794537 ||  esn 590-4537   | iainw@bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pcw@flutter.tv.tek.com (Patrick C. Wilkins)
Subject: Re: 86 Camry Spark Knock
Organization: Tektronix TV Products
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:06:18

Have you replaced the timing belt? My mother has a '85 that pinged no
matter what i did to the spark until we replaced the belt.
--

-------------------------------------------------------------------
    Pat Wilkins II
    A.K.A. Clif
    Email pcw@flutter.tv.tek.com
    Work 503-627-6525

-------------------------------------------------------------------
    Is Deja-vu real or is life just redundant???????
-------------------------------------------------------------------


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: C3 ECM schematics available somewhere?
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: na 
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:38:43 GMT

In <1993Jan11.190304.6351@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com> c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos) writes:

>In article <93Jan11.101544pst.11545@alpha.xerox.com> Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com writes:
>>
>>	"I was wondering if the schematics for GM's C3 2.8PFI ECM's are
>>available somewhere?"
>>
>>I wouldn't mind getting ahold of that information myself (or better yet, the
>>P4).  However, judging by how tight GM is even with their lousy serial data,
>>I'd say you've got a lot better chance of finding out what Geroge Bush knew
>>about Iran and the Contras.  Let us know if you have any success.  Good luck!
>>

Good luck. After one of my many letters to Roger Smith, he had one of
GM's Chief Engineers call me. When I asked him for schematics and
PROM code for the system in my '81 Century, he told me that he had
no idea where to obtain such information. Considering the way that
system operated (a computer controlled carburettor - God, how dumb
can you get?) I believed him. If I had created that small marvel,
I certainly would never have admitted it.

>Gee, maybe we should create a few news groups for you folks, such as

>	rec.autos.ecm.sources.gm
>	rec.autos.ecm.sources.ford
>	rec.autos.ecm.sources.chrysler

>: : : : :

>Could you mail me a few sources for whatever is that you're working on
>at Xerox? I'll even accept xerox copies....

>Spiros
>-- 
>Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
>Software Technology, Delco Electronics       (317) 451-0815
>GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]

Bob.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: Rust Neutralizer?
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 22:27:23 GMT

In article <11JAN93.12384490@wizard.colorado.edu> murray_t@wizard.colorado.edu writes:
>I have some rust on my '62 Studebaker Lark that I need to deal with and
>I'd like comments on some of the rust neutralizing products on the market.
>These products chemically alter the rust into a sandable/paintable compound.
>Has anyone had any experience with this?  Are some brands better that others?
>Where can these products be purchased?

	I've had good experience with 3M's "Rust Avenger" in stopping
the spread of rust from chipped paint...even in chicago's salty
winter.  I just read an article on these products recently
(think it was cars'n'parts)....they are all basically the
same chemical.

--Ken

-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 6 Jan 93 18:01:27 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


   Sorry, my comments got deleted from my previous reply. What I was going to say is that I believe that MTBE stands for Methyl Tetra Butyl Ether if anyone
is interested.

                            Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: geoffs@eecs270.engin.umich.edu (Geoffrey M Silverton)
Subject: Symtoms: vibrations on accel, decel = bad driveshaft?
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 22:52:40 EST
Organization: University of Michigan Engineering, Ann Arbor
Originator: geoffs@eecs270.engin.umich.edu



The responses I've gotten in the past have been right-on, so I
was wondering if I could get an opinion on a new problem:

My car seems to vibrate badly when accelerating and decelerating
at speeds over 25MPH.  Especially decelerating.  It vibrates in 
normal driving at speeds 25...65 MPH and at 80+ MPH.  Shifting into 
neutral (at highway speed) and varying engine speed does not change 
the vibrations.

Is this the driveshaft?  Or an engine mount?  Are these difficult
to replace (no engine removals...).  Will ignoring the problem for
six months/5000 mi. cause any sudden failure?  I have driven 900 
highway miles since this condition appeared.  It has not gotten 
worse.

The car is an '80 Plymouth Gran Fury, 318cu.

Thanks for any help!


Geoff
(geoffs@engin.umich.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dsantos@hprnd.rose.hp.com (David Santos)
Subject: Re: How to store a car for 6 months
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:42:38 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

    I saw a show, I think it was MotorWeek, that discussed this topic.  The
hosts recommendations were:
    - Disconnect battery and hook the battery up to an automatic charger.
    - Wash and wax the car with good quality products.  Also, cover the car
      with a "breathable" car cover.
    - Change the following fluids to prevent rust and corrosion:
        - Motor oil
        - Brake fluid
        - Radiator fluid
    - Fill up the gas tank all the way to prevent rust and corrosion.
    - Use a silicon spray on all the rubber parts.
    - Put the car up on jackstands to prevent the tires from getting flat
      spots.
    - Set some mouse traps in and around the car to prevent those little
      critters from eatting you upolstery. 

Hope this helps,

Dave  
    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dje@mail.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Subject: Re: RFI: Regappable Platinium Plugs
Reply-To: dje@mail.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 17:22:30 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.173457.13330@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:
|> In article <17691@mindlink.bc.ca> Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum) writes:
|> >> schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
|> >>
Bunch of stuff deleted....
|> 
|> Guys, I'm sorry to break your dreams, but Platinum plugs perform and last no
|> longer than regular plugs do.  If you don't replace them at regular intervals
|> you are both foolish and wasting gas and power.
|> 
|> -Experience speaks

Steve (Experience speaks)...

Could you please expand on your experience?

Mine has been JUST the opposite.

Fact:	factory recommended replacement intervals for platinum plugs
	in Toyota products is 50,000 miles (just enough for them to
	eliminate replacing them under the federally mandated emissions
	warranty requirements)...

Fact:	I have personally run NKG platinum's in Turbo Supra Toyota for
	over 60,000 miles with NO measurable change in plug gap, and
	no performance problems...

Fact:	factory recommended replacement intervals for non-platinum plugs
	on Toyota products is 15,000 miles.. and I have measured
	considerable changes in the gap (typically +.001" per 5,000
	miles).

Fact:	Given that you can generally purchase platinum plugs for 2 to 3x
	the cost of regular plugs.. they become cost effective on their
	replacement cost/vs interval alone.. and when you consider the
	amount of labor required on many automobiles to replace the plugs,
	they become VERY cost effective due to the decreased replacement
	intervals.

Maybe Fact: It is claimed that due to the smaller (typcially) electrode
	size of platinum plugs vs regular plugs that firing voltages
	are less.. makes sense to me, since high-voltages typically
	are attracted to point contacts (ie: look at a lightning rod).
	I may have read some technical stuff on this a long time ago..
	but do not have it at hand, so this becomes a "maybe fact"

Again.. would you expand on your experiences?

Don Eilenberger (dje@mail.bellcore.com)


DISCLAIMER: Bellcore couldn't care a hoot about sparkplugs..
From: c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: sugar in gas?
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:13:24 GMT
Organization: Delco Electronics Corp.

In article <31710b47@ofa123.fidonet.org> Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org writes:
>   Please tell me if I'm wrong, but the impression I got after 
>taking the chem class that all mech engineering students have to 
>take is that sugar doesn't dissolve in gasoline.  I even tried it 
>at home and the sugar just sat at the bottom of the beaker.

Either case, this happened to an unpopular math teacher in High School.
He had a perfect VW bug 1600 cc (Bright Green!) and after a couple of
real enterprising teens put sugar in his gas the car went in for a
major overhaul.

Did you try to stir the sugar in? motion/vibration as it would be the
case in a car could be enough to dissolve it.. 

Spiros
-- 
Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Technology, Delco Electronics       (317) 451-0815
GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]
From: sjh@philabs.philips.com (Steve Herman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: *** 87 Chrysler 2.2 Liter Engine ---Mixture Stuck Ritch--HELP!!!!!
Keywords: Fuel injection haywire
Date: 12 Jan 93 14:31:00 GMT
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, New York

In article <1993Jan11.151918.21590@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo) writes:
>My 87 Plymouth Reliant flunked its emission control test due to too 
>much O and other components indicating overly rich mixture.
>
>I dumped the diagnostic codes, and got nothing. So, I replaced all four plugs
>all four plug wires, as well as the distributor cap and rotor and retarded the
>ignition slightly.
>
>On the second test, it flunked again.
>
>I replaced the O2 sensor, and reset the timing to specs, 12 degrees BTDC.
>
>On starting the engine, it runs fine until it warms up, then runs roughly,
>a classic symptom of over-rich mixture.
>
>Now, when I dump the diagnostic codes, I get a 52, which indicates that the
>mixture is stuck rich. I checked the injector by unplugging it and cranking the 
>engine. No leakage was detected.
>
>
>I'm at the end of my rope. The Chiltons guide DOES NOT GIVE ANY PROCEEDURE
>for dealing with this failure. Does anybody have any idea what the %#&*%$
>is wrong???  Heeeeelllllp!!!!
>
>
>                                                       Larry Mayo
>
>                                               
>                                                    

My 76 Plymouth Volaire had the same problem. It turned out that
there was a Chrysler recall in 76-77. It called for the installation
of a special temperature sensor in the radiator hose. Check the
recalls.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: choudhry@wam.umd.edu (Zafar Ullah Choudhry)
Subject: Too much gas smell in engine compartment,  source unknown...Help...
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 02:52:26 GMT

I posted gas consumption problem about my Mitsubishi Mirage a while ago. 
There is too much gas smell in the engine compartment. I have checked
almost everthing including: hoses, carburator, fuel pump etc. I even
showed my car to a mechanic and although he smelled the gas but could
not find the leakage place.


Is there a way of finding out the source of leakage. If anyone has any
idea about how to solve this problem then please let me know.

Thanks.
Zafar.
From: gilligan@watnxt14.ucr.edu (bill c busenhell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: MG
Date: 13 Jan 93 04:48:32 GMT

I have recently purchased a 1962 MG Midget and have run into some difficulty
in getting the tachometer to work(actually I don't know how to hook it up).
I realize that in '62 the tach was driven off the generator, however, the 
original 948 engine had been replaced with a '67 1275.  I think the tach
was driven off the gearbox in this engine but I am not sure(and an unable 
to find a place to put the cable).  A generator with the tach drive costs
about $300 and I am trying to avoid that.  Any info/help would be appreciated.