HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tech@osceola.cs.ucf.edu (Tony Travaglini)
Subject: Re: Question about Marine Aquariums 
Organization: University of Central Florida, Orlando
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 16:58:48 GMT

In article <qRu1PB2w165w@aqua.ocunix.on.ca> cowan@aqua.ocunix.on.ca (D. Cowan (Postmaster)) writes:
>faith@wam.umd.edu (Jerome V. Smith) writes:
>
>>               I am one of those other guys,  you know ... a fresh water 
>> aquariest. We have to start somewhere. Anyway,  what I want to know is, I hea
>> all this talk about how exspensive and how hard it is to keep a salt water
>> aquarium.  Is this true?  Soon I am thinking about converting my 75 gal FW ta
>> to a salt water.  I know the fish aren't cheap but that is the least of worri
>
>I found it somewhat more expensive to set up, but not all that hard once I got
>it going.  It is a bit more work, but if you've been running a 75 gal FW, you
>are probably used to it.
>
>Fish, filter, and lighting are going to cost you more, upkeep is similar in 
>terms of time and effort.
>

If you're keeping just fish, lighting will not cost you more. It's my
experience that fish will live with just about any lighting situation
you care to put them in. Inverts on the other hand can require a bit
more attention when it comes to lighting. 

If your tank is a standard tank without any metal trim it can be used
for salt water. You didn't mention what kind of filtering you have on
the 75 but it is not out of the question that it could be used for SW.
Seems to me that if you resolve these two questions you could go out
and buy some salt and a fish and be a marine aquarist. It's just not
that hard. I think a lot of group.rookies get the wrong impression
when they read this group because there are people here who are doing
some very advanced stuff (like Steve), and others who are doing some
very expensive stuff (like George). It may make some people think that
aquariums are both expensive and difficult. They don't have to be. I
have a 10 gallon SW aquarium here in my office that has about 5 lbs of
live rock, a koran angel, a banded coral shrimp, and a maroon clown in
it. The whole setup without fish cost about $30.00. The fish were 15,
10, and 15 respectively. You can set up the tank one week, wait a week
and buy a fish, wait a week and so on. It's been setup for about 8
months and with the exception of an episode with a killer blennie that
had to be returned to the store, it has had no problems. It requires
about a half hour a week to maintain and looks great. 

Tony Travaglini
tech@cs.ucf.edu
From: whiles@nswc.navy.mil (William Scott Hiles x1568)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Water changes
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:10:35 GMT
Reply-To: whiles@nswc.navy.mil
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Dahlgren Division

In article 0@comm.mot.com, ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron) writes:
>Has anyone had any experience with the "PYTHON" water changer?  
>I'm thinking of getting one and would appreciate any advice.
>Thanks
>Glenn

Man oh man is the Python a great tool.  With the extensions you can reach many rooms
in a house from the bathroom or kitchen.  One modification that I made was to add
a quick disconnect to the pipes.  You will find that the various pipes come with
connections which screw together but they leak after you use them for some time.
I found that putting a little silicon on the threads of these connections prevented
the leakes.  At various points in the hose (it is 1/2 inch hose) I put Marineland
quick disconnects (I have a bunch of Magnum filters and had a few disconnects
left over...the kind without valves) in the hose to allow for eacy storage.  It also
makes it easy to start a siphon and then disconnect to fill buckets for watering
plants or transferring to another container.

I bought the Python when I set up my first big tank and can't see how I got along
without it before.

Scott

---
Scott Hiles
whiles@relay.nswc.navy.mil

Standard disclaimer:
  The opinions expressed are those of my own and do not necessarily 
  reflect those of the DOD or the Navy.  I accept full responsibility.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: schwarz@esrican.uucp (Mr.Coach)
Subject: Phosphate Tester and Remover for Reef Setup
Organization: ESRI Canada
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 21:49:43 GMT



Thanks to all who have responded to my previous
postings.  I am a new net'er and have gained mucho info.

I'd like to purchase a phosphate test kit.  I don't 
want to spend an exorbitant am't but I'd like something 
I can eventually use for a reef setup.  Any suggestions?

I'd also like to purchase a phosphate remover.  Again, 
any suggestions?

I have already purchased test kits from Marine Enterprises
for PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.  The Nitrate kit 
doesn't state which it tests Nitrate or Nitrogen-Nitrate.  
I read in Thiel or Moe that most are Nitrogen-Nitrate.  
It was about CAN $15.  Is it safe to assume Nitrogen-Nitrate?

Thanks, 

Brian







-- 
_|_| Environmental Systems Research Institute, CANADA     
_|_|                                
      If responding via E-mail please respond to:  bschwarz@esri.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jmb14@jaguar.uofs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Drip plate blues and other questions
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:03:32 GMT
Organization: University of Scranton

I've finally gone big time and bought a wet/dry for $200 for my 55 (M) set up.
The problem is that it has a drip plate not a spinner bar and I don't seem to 
be getting even coverage of my sump.  A good lot of the water goes throught the
middle of the drip plate and never makes it to the edges, subsequently the 2
outermost rings of the DLS don't get wet.  What do I do?  I've got the thing
pretty level and I tried making the holes in the center of the plate smaller
and this has helped somewhat- anyway, the fish seem happy.


                                                   jim


p.s. just some other questions . . .

1. Did we actually decide that it is alright to use baking soda to raise
the ph of your tank?

2. Did we say that it was really alright to use normal un-iodized table salt in
an aquarium?

3. Can you really avoid using medicines in you tank (during a light infection
of either (F) or (M) ick, by improving your water quality and feeding with good
foods?  My dealer says this is possible and I am trying it.  It seems that the
marine ick (no more than one or two spots per fish) drop off only to return
in a different location- the fish do not seem stressed or suffering.  In fact
an infected hippo tang is GROWING!
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 11:59:59 EDT
From: <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Serpae Tetra beating the tar out of goldfish!?
 <1992Sep02.082255.19568@Veritas.COM>

In article <1992Sep02.082255.19568@Veritas.COM>, oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
says:

>No, just a violent display of offended aesthetic sensibilities.  Given
>my attitude toward "fancy" goldfish, I can't blame the serpae for taking
>offense.

I completely concur on the goldfish stance, but this *is* my girlfriends tank.
Granted, it is in my apartment and I end up doing all the maintenance.  Anyway,
she wouldn't let me out of the store without buying the goldfish (which she
has named "Stumpy").  I wanted to get a bunch of Serpae tetras and a pleco.
But I have to admit, Oleg, now that I've seen the goldfish he is kinda cute.
;-)

>For what it's worth, deep-bodied Hyphessobricons are very aggressive and
>H. serpae are among the most pugnatious of the group.
>--

I consulted Axelrods before making the purchase.  Like I said, they are
described as good community fishies.  But then again, he only has two
classes.  Hearts for "good" fishies and Skull & Crossbones for "Mean" fishies.
So know I am faced with the awful choice of returning the Tetra (which are
a beatiful fish!) and getting....coucgh...gag....another fancy goldfish.

Jeez, the things we do for love.   ;-}

>Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com

PS- Good to talk to you again, Oleg.  It's been about a year, I guess.


| HANS C. MASING                   | A BAD ATTITUDE IS THE      |
| HCM100 @ PSUVM.PSU.EDU           | DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE     |
| MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEMS   | WAY I THINK AND THE WAY    |
| PENN STATE UNIVERSITY            | YOU THINK I SHOULD THINK.  |
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6909 alt.aquaria:4790
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Suggestions for a Long, Short Tank
Date: 29 Aug 92 05:03:31 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell) writes:
>for fish. My first thought was White Cload Mountain fish. The ones
>As I understand it they come from small streams. A good choice?

Nope.  They are a cold-water fish.  Unless your house is always under 68F,
I would suggest a different species.  Try something tropical.
-- 
"Republicans understand the importance of bondage between a mother and 
child." -- Dan Quayle
 
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Plastic Coasters, Water, Mail-Order				
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 14:38:59 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

Hi,			

1. I am setting up a 110 gallon tank on a tile floor in the basement.  The
12x12 tiles are on concrete.   I have a metal stand. I was told I should
not put the stand directly on the tiles because it could crack or scratch them.	
Is this true?  Should I buy those little plastic coasters one puts under
the legs of chairs, or will the weight of the tank crack any plastic coaster?

2. In the tank I am setting up, should I add some water from a stable
tank I already have before adding fish to help get the
bacterial population get started.

3. Do people mail order from fish distributors?  If so, what are some
good places.  Seems quite risky, since you don't know what condition
the fish will arrive in!  But it might be nice to be able to select
species the local stores might not have.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6900 alt.aquaria:4787
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Suggestions for a Long, Short Tank
Date: 28 Aug 92 19:46:14 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Depends on the temperature, water hardness, etc.  If you have goldfish
in the 55 then white clouds would be a perfect choice as they also
like cool temperatures. If you have a tropical tank then something like
danios would be fine.  There are some catfish which like moving 
water.  Have fun and look in a good aquarium atlas (eg, Baench(sp)) 
to see which fish you like comes from such an environment.  You might
even build a rock wall in part of the tank to constrict the flow.

                      mark

In article <1992Aug28.162549.22199@news.clarkson.edu>, russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell) writes:
> 
> From article <1992Aug28.131314.18532@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>, by mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens):
> > Why not tie the two tanks together? There are many options depending

                  [.....]

> > into a stream!
> > 
> >            mark
> > 
>   Great Idea, I'm going to have to remember that. What do you suggest
> for fish. My first thought was White Cload Mountain fish. The ones
> I have spend a lot of time in the UGF's exhaust 'playing in the current.
> As I understand it they come from small streams. A good choice?
> 
> --
> David M. Russell, Mechanical Eng. Dept.
> Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676
> (315) 268-9806 
> russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: selling young
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 18:15:47 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Aug28.160343.29574@cis.uab.edu> patton@phy.uab.edu writes:
>
>How does one go about selling fish to the local pet stores. Those of you who
>have experience with selling back fry you have raised please respond. I am 
>having quite a bit of success breeding cichlids and would like to sell 
>the young. Any suggestions as to how to approach fish stores about buying
>them is appreciated. Thanks!!!


I depends on the fish store.  Some are better then others but do not
expect to get much for fish that are easy to breed and raise.  Convicts
for example bring about 30 cents each when you can get a store to buy
them.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: Water changes
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 18:14:28 GMT
Summary: Heh.

In article <1992Aug27.145505.21346@col.hp.com> howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>
>Let me play the devils advocate for here.
>
>While the python does make water changing easier it is a water waster.
>It is little more than a water bed fill/drain kit and a few feet of
>hose.  
Heh. According to a Python spokesman at the last ACA national convention,
none of the water bed manufacturers took out a patent on the fill/drain
unit, and Python did. So, to be correct, you should say that water bed fill/drain kits
are just an instance of the Python. Not clear how much Python is muscling the
mfgr's. of said equipment for revenue...
>
>I used a python for a short while.  I find that a small pump with an
>attached hose works better for me.

Me, too. I use the Python to fill tanks and an Eheim hobby pump with a
long hose to train, or buckets and a gravel cleaner. I have well water that
runs at low pressures (typically 30psi) that makes draining via the
Python *real tedious*.
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Water changes
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:23:50 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Also check out the competition from Tetra.  Their's is self starting and
it's yellow... how can you lose?  If you buy it then you can tell us
whats the deal.  

I got a Python, used it a few times and got tired of the setup, went back
to buckets and got tired of that real soom, when back to the Python.  The
ultimate solution is a tap to the house water 'n drain system.  Oh well...

          mark

In article <1992Aug26.145438.26133@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (General Protection Fault) writes:
> 
> 
> In article <ggawron.25.0@comm.mot.com> ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron) writ
> es:
> +Has anyone had any experience with the "PYTHON" water changer?
> +I'm thinking of getting one and would appreciate any advice.
> +Thanks
> +Glenn
> 
> By all/any means, GET IT!  It's $$ very well invested in something which really
> does what they say it does!  You could assemble a work-alike device yourself 
> but you'd have to pay more for the appropriate parts than you would by just
> buying a Python.
> 
> Keith.
> -- 
> D.K.Higgs  DATA+@osu.edu  a.k.a  dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu _____   __o
> Ohio State University Libraries, Acquisitions Department      -------    -\<,
> Continuation Acquisition Division                              ------ ( )/ ( )
> ~~(614)292-6314~~~~~~fax(614)292-2015~~~~~~~~~~\_________/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mvp@hsv3.lsil.com (Mike Van Pelt)
Subject: Re: [F] Serpae Tetra beating the tar out of goldfish!?
Organization: LSI Logic/Headland Technology
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 21:37:09 GMT

In article <shane-020992110142@a-mac.psy.uq.oz.au> shane@psych.psy.uq.oz.au (Shane Brown) writes:
>In article <92245.130441HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>, <HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu>
>wrote:
  [tale of woe and carnage deleted]
>>.  This doesn't sound right for Serpae Tetras, which are discribed 
>> in Axelrods as lively, peaceable community fishies.
>In my experience they are mean, nasty little buggers.

Ditto.  I bought six of them for my community tank, and they killed
about a dozen other fish before I took 'em back to the fish store.
They are worse fin-shredders than the infamous tiger barbs.

Some people have gotten away with it.  Either their tank happens to
have very fast fish, or there are "mellower" strains of Serpae tetra.

-- 
Mike Van Pelt          | What happens if a big asteroid hits Earth?
LSI Logic/Headland     | Judging from realistic simulations involving a
mvp@hsv3.lsil.com      | sledge hammer and a common laboratory frog, we
sun!indetech!hsv3!mvp  | can assume it will be pretty bad. -- Dave Barry
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6778 alt.aquaria:4723 sci.aquaria:1274
From: holly@sybase.com (Innocent Bystander)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: WANTED:gentle vegetarian
Date: 24 Aug 92 15:38:34 GMT
Reply-To: holly@sybase.com (Innocent Bystander)
Distribution: na
Organization: Not here.



Hi.

Does anyone have any favorite herbivores for a 55 gallon reef?  I've
recently pruned back my overly exhuberant caulerpa, and i'd like to
hire a gardener.  Yellow tangs are pretty, but they're such 
bullies (and they never seem to calm down).  I'm open to suggestions 
for either invertebrates or fish, but they have to be nice to the 
sessile inverts and be very fond of macro algae.

Second question: the tank has one cleaner shrimp ("cleaner than 
what?" you ask. smart-mouth.) and i'm wondering if it would 
be ok to get him/her/it (is there a reliable way to tell the girls 
from the boys?)  a companion, or if they're too territorial.

Thanks for all tips and suggestions(and even wise-ass remarks),
holly


--
holly@sybase.com			 
Not the opinion of Sybase. Not valid with other offers. Not for use in 
microwave oven.  Use with UL-listed grounded equipment only. Cash value 
less than $.0002.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Subject: Re: Rams and tankmates?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 13:19:28 GMT

In article <92233.192336ACH2@psuvm.psu.edu> ACH2@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>
>     I am interested in getting a few rams (microgeophagus)
>ramirezi), but I'd be putting them in with medium sized angels
>and extremely shy synodontis sp. "lace" catfish, in a well-planted
>20g tank. I have heard that rams are delicate and shy, so I'm
>curious about what tankmates rams will put up with (other than tetras).
Other small inoffensive dither-type fish. Not angels and synodontis
catfish are all predatory - they probably won't eat the rams, but they'll
eat any offspring that arise in the tank (angel or ram.)
>     Incidentally, the tank water is alkaline and hard, exact numbers
>unknown. Despite the fact that they prefer soft water, Richter in TFH
>claims he regularly maintains them in hard water.

Hard to believe that, given that most of the dwarf cichlids live in habitats
like the cardinal tetras - blackwater rivers, extremely soft and acid (pH
< 5). I'd double check - angels "don't mind" hard alkaline water (as long
as it isn't liquid rock,) synodontis the same.
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 05:46:18 GMT


Yes I have found many shops in the US that push plastic plants, and really 
don't know what they are talking about when it comes to live plants.  I 
am a strong believer in real live plants and usually have good luck with 
them, when I can get good healthy starting stock.

I also beleive that with some of the new decotator aquariums growing 
plants is an imposibility.  Take some 20 gallon decorator tank that is
about 3 foot tall.  No room for a good overhead light, no surface area
etc.  Another instance is with some of the chiclids that seem to tear
even the best rooted plants out of the ground.

What we really need to do is to educate the American fish lover on how
to keep plants alive.  And the manufactures on the fact that with there
gizmos to "beautify" aquariums that are negative productive thay loose
potential long range customers to earn that fast instant buck.  And 
finally the fish shops on what plants work how and which do not work,
and why.
--

  
###############################################################################
###NEVER - NEVERMORE###########################################################
###############################################################################
####################################What are the contents of the oblong box?##
###############################################################################
  The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:6872 alt.aquaria:4776
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Novaqua and phosphates
Date: 28 Aug 92 10:37:11 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
>chlorine test and do a little science but has anybody measured the effectiveness
>of (in my case, whole house) charcole filters?

Yes.  I used to use activated carbon in-line filter and it managed to 
completely strip out chloramines from LA water.  For a while everything was 
fine.  I would change the generic high grade activated carbon once a year
and keep on pushing 30-60 gal/week through it.  "Magnum Carbon" worked fine
too.  But the generic stuff was cheap and good.  The water could be used
immediately, unless I wanted it to settle and suck up some CO2.

And then I ran out of my generic crap and bought Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
activated carbon, "professional grade" or whatever they call it.  After the
next round of water changes I lost a bunch of fishes.  The water seemd to be
fine on all tests.  As the last resort I measured ammonia using the
A/Ph 2 step chloramine test.  Along the way, I checked chlorine -- bingo!

So now I am back to settling/circulating the water for a day and using sodium
thiosulphate as a precaution.

I stopped using Aquarium Pharmaceuticals carbon.  I have a lot of it, if
anyone wants it.  I got me some more generic carbon from my old source in Los
Angeles last time I was there.  STill haven't used any of the carbon in the
in-line filter.  But when I do, the first thing I will do is test the water
"before" and "after": I have been burned once, now I am paranoid.
-- 
"Republicans understand the importance of bondage between a mother and 
child." -- Dan Quayle
 
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
From: pme@otter.hpl.hp.com (Pete Earlam)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 11:01:22 GMT
Subject: waterboatmen & tadpoles
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.