HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: ALPINE SUCKS!! (still)
Date: 11 Oct 1992 02:08:29 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc12.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, schroede@bnlux1.bnl.gov (gary l. schroeder) says:

>Precisely.  I too, bought a unit based on the name ALPINE.  The unit is
>exactly one year old and has been treated with great care (cleaning
>heads, capstans, pinch rollers, etc.).  However, the tape deck is now
>completely useless as it simply auto-reverses back and forth, back and
>forth between tape sides.  The inside is completely clean; no hair, no
>goop.  There's no reason for this to happen that I can see.

	If there is no "goop", that very well may be the problem. If there
is no lubricant, the friction will build up. Hence, it'll think the tape
is stoped, and flip to the other side. And so, back and forth. I can't say
for sure that this is what is causing it, but I do know several people who
immaculately cleaned their tapedecks, and this problem developed. It's a 
possibility thou.

-- 
	Mr. Bush has the dubious distinction of the second largest tax
raise in US history; right behind Mr. Reagan. They're the real slickersters,
with their theivery fingers in our wallets, with a grin and a gleem in their 
eyes.   What a "no new taxes" bastard.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: Preamp noise. HELP!
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 12:20:00 GMT


Thanks to Jamie Hanrahan for a reply, but neither suggestion is the problem.
Let me clarify. The noise is not alternator whine; the engine is not running.
The noise is not a ground loop caused by the shielded connections between the
preamp and the xover (the next component downstream), since the noise still 
exists even when there is no signal connections to the preamp (just power,
ground, remote).

I'll describe the problem again for the benefit of the net. I have a RF PA1-HD
preamp between my head unit and a Coustic XM-3 xover. It causes a high-pitched
noise in my tweeters (of the varying frequency kind). The noise is there even
if I disconnect all signal cables from the preamp. If I shut off the preamp, the
noise goes away. The preamp and the xover share the same power, ground, and remote
leads, although the leads to the xover are considerably longer. 

If I drive the xover with the head unit (and the preamp is off), there is
no noise. If I turn on the preamp, there is noise. The fact that there is no noise
without the preamp negates the possibility of a ground loop between amplifier and
xover/head unit or amp/xover and head unit. I tried different power, remote sources
for the preamp and the noise is less, but still exists.

Any ideas?

Evan Hawrysh

PS. Please respond to the net as I don't have email access.


From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:39:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Bost Accoustics Customer Service #
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

For unlisted #s:

  1-800-555-1212

Then give the name of Boston Acoustic and see what happens.

Kirk out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Chrysler digital radio pinouts?
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 16:56:02 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.171102.1799@swlvx2.msd.ray.com>, hsd@swl.msd.ray.com (HERBERT DASILVA) writes:
>hgm@ncsu.edu (Hal G. Meeks) writes:
>
>>I picked up an Chrysler AM/FM digital stereo radio for next to nothing
>>some time back, and I've just now gotten around to playing with it.
>
>>There are two cryptic connectors on the back of the radio: one has 8 pins,
>>the other has 6 (I think, this is from memory). The pins are in a inline,
>>keyed connnector that I've not seen before.
>
>  Yup, there are two 8-pin connectors, one gray, one black.
>
>>Unlike Delco radios, there is no pinout diagram on the radio itself. I've
>>managed to get the dial lite to come on, but not much else. I really don't
>>feel like randomly hooking it up until it's either fried or works.
>
>>Any suggestions where I might find the pinouts? Information this specific
>>isn't found in your usual car repair manuals.
>
>  Most aftermarket radio sales outlets have wiring packages that let you
>  hook up an aftermarket radio to the factory wiring harness.  These kits
>  usually have a harness that attaches to the radio, and then you plug into
>  the car's harness.  These kits show a diagram of the pinouts.  The one's
>  I've seen are about $5.00.  Once you figure out what pins go where, you
>  could either go to a junk yard and cut off an appropriate length of radio
>  harness, connectors and all (all harnesses are basically the same since
>  1985 or so), or construct your own.
>
>  I submit this to the net for the benefit of those who might want to
>  replace their factory radio without hacking up the cables.  Your case of
>  incorporating a factory radio into a another type of car is considerably
>  more rare...
>
>>--hal
>
>	Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva


Most Radio Shacks carry the wiring harness specific to ford, gm, and chrysler,
so you can just splice the harness to your hardware, and plug in the radio.

It's been quite a while since I originally obtained a ford harness from them,
but it came with the wire coding specs.

Alex
From: dks@Apple.COM (dk smith)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: CD players and maintenance   (was Re: ALPINE SUCKS!! (still)
Date: 7 Oct 92 19:08:11 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA

In article <6OCT199216395911@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov> yystg@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (STEVE GRAHAM) writes:
>
>If you have problems with skipping/mistracking, and your unit is already 
>out of warantee, take 30 minutes and carefully disassemble your CD player 
>or have someone else do it for you if you can't, and clean the lense with a 
>Q-Tip and alcohol.  It should do wonders.  

This doesn't seem to be something any person could perform successfully...
Comments?

>You may even be able to get away with a cleaning disk - 

Do these things really work? I don't see how... Would someone care to enlighten
me?

>Most CD players require cleaning after 6 months to a year, and if it sits 
>around in a dusty environment, well...

Thanx,
dk
---
dks@apple.com | Above opinions are mine and are not endorsed by Apple Computer
AppleLink: ULTIMATE | 408 974-1275 | Play Disc, Enjoy Disc, Live by SOTG
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: CD players and maintenance   (was Re: ALPINE SUCKS!! (still)
Date: 7 Oct 1992 23:06:37 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc12.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, dks@Apple.COM (dk smith) says:


>This doesn't seem to be something any person could perform successfully...
>Comments?

	If one has a little bit of patience, and steady hands, it isn't too
hard. I routienly had my Nak apart. Now, that was a tape deck, but similar
process. It's kind of a puzzle, only in reverse. But you have to remember
how you did it...

	" Ah, I finally got it back together.... ops, what's this piece
	doing on the floor???"

and..
	" just one more turn of the screw... <BOING!>  WHERE DID IT GO????"


>
>>You may even be able to get away with a cleaning disk - 
>
>Do these things really work? I don't see how... Would someone care to enlighten
>me?

	For periodic cleaning, I prefer "turbo disk". It has small fins, so
that when it spins, it blows air. This helps keep the lens clean of newly
settled dusk off of it. It can concievable lodge the dust more thou. Never
had a problem to date. I use it about twice a week for about 5 minutes.
( when I am home that is )

	I usually like to pull them apart every 6 months and do a thorough
cleaning with LPI. And, my tape deck ( now in my father's car ), I demagnatize
 and clean the heads every 6 months or so.
-- 

	" It's time for Congress to tell the president to shove his 
	veto pen up his deficit! "  
					- Rep. Jim Traficant.
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: large capacitors
Date: 7 Oct 92 15:26:27 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.


	I basically have two questions.

	1.)	How do I exactly wire the cap in parrallel?

	2.) 	Where would I be able to get the caps.?

	Another question is:

		How many farads would I need if I'm using a 200x2 into
4ohm amp?



						Thanks a lot.


-- 
M A D E   .   . .---. .---.    \  Buy U.S.A. products,  /    xxxxx ==========
  I N     |   |  \    |___|    <     It's YOUR job.     >    xxxxx ========== 
 T H E    |   |    \  |   |    <  Christopher J. Massa  >    ================
-------   `---' `---' '   `    / cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu \    ================
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: wwein@scott.skidmore.edu (warren wein)
Subject: Re: CDS FOR CAR STEREO
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 17:05:03 GMT


	I just bought a cd that I had only seen once before in London
selling for $40. I got it from HMV in Boston for $26.  Its by The Art
of Noise "The Fun Mixes".  It is a disc of synthesized special effects
put to a techno beat.  It was well worth the money.  The song L.F.O.
has bass reaching down to around 60hz. Overall it has helped me see
where I need to improve my system.  
	I thank everyone for their suggestions and encourage others to
post their favorite wide range cds.

						- Warren 
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
" Female Cathon choose their mates by the size of their balls." 
" In no sense? Nonsense!"
Warren Wein
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Punch 45 Max. load rating
From: glen.kawano@pcb.batpad.lgb.ca.us (Glen Kawano) 
Date: 11 Oct 92 20:16:00 GMT
Reply-To: glen.kawano@pcb.batpad.lgb.ca.us (Glen Kawano) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Batchelor Pad PCBoard ~ Long Beach, CA ~ +1 310 494 8084


TJ|Does anyone know if a Punch 45 is stable at 2 ohms?  If it isn't
TJ|what is it stable to?

TJ|Thanks,

TJ|Trav
TJ|tjd28@cas.org

Yes, the P45 is definitely stable with a two ohm load. I have a friend
who loaded his down to one ohm and it hasn't suffered noticably.
---
 . SLMR 2.1a .
From: rvn@icd.teradyne.com (Rafael Vidaillet)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: TINT
Date: 10 Oct 92 17:14:16 GMT
Reply-To: rvn@icd.teradyne.com
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA

>        About the person who said that he knows a gut who used a light
>detector in his alarm system...how the heck did he get the thing rigged
>so it did not go off with sun light but it did go off with a little
>flashlight.  Or, was this just an idea he had and not put to use.  I
>like the idea myself sinse the guy who nabbed my radar must have had a
>flashlight.  I also keep a sunvisor in my windshield at night to prevent
>any light from coming in.  This makes it really dark.

	I think the light detector idea can be done.  If one is only looking trying
to detect the use of a flash light, then this is what I would do:

	Place several light detectors inside the car, in places that should
	relatively speaking, receive the same amount of light from the outside.
	Then hook them up to a circuit that monitors their difference.  This monitoring
	can be done in groups of two detectors that are facing the same direction.
	The moment one of them gets hit by the flash light, the alarm will go off 
	since this sensor will have many times more light than the others.  If this is 
	tweeked correctly, it should be able to distinguish from flashlight light beams, 
	and outside lighting (sun, street lights, etc...).
	
	
	
_RV

---
 ______________________________________________________________________
/                                                                      \
|                 He who dies with the most toys wins!                 |
|______________________________________________________________________|
| Rafael Vidaillet--MS: H71|   Internet:  rvn@dewey.icd.teradyne.com   |
| Teradyne Inc.            |                              _            |
| 321 Harrison Ave.        |   Voice:   (617) 422-2422   |_) \  /      |
| Boston, Ma. 02118        |   Fax:     (617) 422-2837   | \  \/       |
\______________________________________________________________________/
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: shing@tramp.Colorado.EDU (shing)
Subject: What to put in a Datsun 240-Z coup?
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 00:51:06 GMT

What would you suggest would be the maximum number of woofers to put in
a 1972 240-Z?  Now I have 1 15" JBL.  I want it to hit hard, and be heard.


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: cmermag@eng.umd.edu (Christopher Mermagen)
Subject: Re: ALPINE SUCKS!! (still)
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 19:42:43 GMT
Organization: College of Engineering, University of Maryland, College Park

I had the 7903?? pullout cd player, and it had a disc reading problem 
that was becuase of some gear or pulley deteriorating as I recall. A
friend of mine with the same CD player had the same problem.... so
there have a confirmation... 

Anyway, he has a 4x50 amp of Alpine and the brand new pullout (forget
the #), but he swears by them, and I think the CD player is a great 
machine after I had a chance to toy with it for a little...

Chris
From: granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org (Grant Erickson)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: ALPINE SUCKS!! (still)
Date: 13 Oct 92 23:45:04 GMT
Organization: People-Net [pnet51], Minneapolis, MN.


Having read this thread for quite some time, I am going to add my $0.02 to
this.

So far as Alpine headunits are concerned, I do not pesonally care for them.
The cosmetics are a little old (I realize the "green gems" are a cult thing)
and the interface lacks a little intuitiveness. But in my system consisting of
a Pioneer Premier DEH-M66, Alpine 6066EX 6.5" Separates, Polk MM6520s, and an
Alpine 3527 25W x 4 Amp, the Alpines are as strong as any other component I
have.

As far as the separates, the tweeters are very small and unobtrusive and havea
smooth clean sound w/o being harsh or metalic sounding. The crossover is small
and mounts easily and in fairly fool-proof and has an overload circuit. The
woofers--although paper, I prefer composite--handle bass very well and have
yet to bottom out on even the most extreme transients (yes, any driver can be
bottomed out if you crank the bass to +10, and the volume to the max).

The amp has a soft-turn on circuit (nice, no thump), installed very quickly
and easily, runs VERY cool, and drives my speakers more than adequately
(although a 35W or 50W upgrade is eventually in the works). It damps well and
boosts the entire audio spectrum very well.

I for one would certainly buy another set of Alpine speakers or amp. As for
price, yes they are initially a touch high, but once you get work a few points
over cost, they compare with other brands. However Alpine headunits are
overpriced no matter how you look at it, or how hard you bargain.

Disclaimer: All opinions are my own, you can't have 'em.

 
Grant Erickson
 
UUCP:  {crash tcnet petrus quest}!orbit!pnet51!granteri
-or-      
UUCP:  granteri@pnet51.orb.mn.org
From: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: ORION XTR SUBWOOFERS
Date: 14 Oct 92 14:12:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim) 

-> I would like to hear what people have to say about the Orion XTR and
-> Orion XTRib woofers.  I listened to a pair of 15's that were each
-> seeing 300 watts, but that's a little more than I have planned.  If
-> you have these woofers please let me know how you like them.
->
-> I would most likely be looking at a pair of 10's, or a single 12", or
-> _maybe_ a single 15.  My sub amp is 75 watts x 2 RMS at four ohms,
-> and bridged mono it produces 200 watts.

  Yeah, the XTR's are kick ass.   I have a 12" being run by a bridged
Alpine pushing 80 watts.  The XTR's are pretty smooth sounding and deep,
but not too boomy.  I've also built a box with 2 15" and it punches like
anything.  Pretty good drivers.  I bought them when they were first
introduced and have never had a problem
  Kicker's are also pretty good, as the name implies, they have a hell
of a lot more "kick" than the Orion's, but both are good sounding.  The
Orion's are just a little more flat out and smooth sounding than the
Orion's.  If you want  boom, go for the Kicker's.


Erich Lim
Internet add:  erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us
From: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: RE: ALPINE SUCKS!! (STILL
Date: 7 Oct 92 00:21:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle) 

Hey,
        I gotta to put my two cents in too.  I think that Alpine has a
good product but they are sometimes overrated by their fans and
supporters.  True fans think that everything that Alpine sells is the
best and all us pros know this is bogus.  Heck most good speakers beat
Alpine and their amps are in my opinion rated with kenwood and pioneer.
Not quite up with PPI, Fosgate or Orion in my opinion.  As for their
head units and CD players...maybe that is where they should focus their
work.  I have no alpine stuff myself but I know they have great CD and
tape player performance.  Top notch.
        As for the CD player problem that is being debated...I agree
that Alpine should be at fault.  The obvious problem is that the unit is
3 years old.  Most customer service phone jockies hear this and decide
that there is no more to hear and that the unit is out of warrantee and
you are out of luck.  You really do need to try adn get a hold of
someone in controll if you can.  Also the idea of looking for others who
have had the same problem is excellant.  You should problably also
document some of the stuff said on the board that is in your favor.  I
believe that Apline will eventually rectify the situation, hopefully.
                Good Luck, Rob Runkle
        
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: joel@dseg.ti.com (Joel Quejada)
Subject: Alpine-Compatible CD Changers?
Reply-To: joel@dseg.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments, Inc.
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 13:24:26 GMT

Are there any CD Changers out there (Sony, Pioneer, etc.) that will work
with an Alpine CD Controller? I have an Alpine 7390 head unit, which is
also a CD controller. If I didn't want an Alpine CD Changer, can I use
another?


Joel

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: pete@cs.uwa.oz.au (Peter Marshall)
Subject: Re: SECURITY
Organization: Dept. Computer Science, University of Western Australia.
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 11:32:42 GMT

In <2879.110.uupcb@cccbbs.UUCP> rob.runkle@cccbbs.UUCP (Rob Runkle)  writes:

>My tip is to:
>        Get tinted windows, and alarm, and some kind of removable unit
>type of thing...or what ever you can reasonably afford of the above


Anyone out there have any opinions on tinted windows for car security??

I remember reading an article saying that tinted windows can sometimes
just serve to arouse the curiosity of a thief if they can't see what's
behind.

This makes sense to me... I imagine someone looking to steal a stereo,
and having 100's of cars in a parking lot to choose from, would
gravitate to the impressive looking cars. By this I mean cars with
dark tint, mags, nice new paint finish, spoilers, or any other add-on.
This would give a cue to the thief that the owner spends money on this car,
and there may be a great stereo inside, or a CB or radar detector.

Just my thoughts....

Pete.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsalmi@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com (John Salmi)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: false a/c ducts, or other suggestions?
Keywords: stealth, faceplate, etc...
Date: 15 Oct 92 19:36:34 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: US West Information Technologies, Devner

*whew* - our newsflow is finally back in place.  talk about withdrawl....

so - all the security/window tinting/alarm discussion has brought something
else to mind..

a pal of mine back in mpls had a somewhat kickbutt system installed in his
car.  since he didn't have a removeable headunit, he opted for a pseudo
a/c vent which snapped over the deck, and looked as stock as the real a/c
ducts.  

my removeable faceplate gives me some satisfaction, but i'd like to either
cover or fill the space left by removing the face.  i thought that a fake
a/c vent would do, but was wondering if any of you guys/gals/people had a
take on something similar?

it's be nice to pull the faceplate and snap in a flat black filler..

comments?

cheers,
-- 
John Salmi		<jsalmi@uswest.com>		(303) 595-2863

#include	<std/disclaimer>
#include	<witty/saying>
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Capacitors
Date: 17 Oct 1992 01:43:28 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort) says:

>
>
>   I suppose a capacitor would look something like:
>
>         -----|(------
>
>   in ASCII. Or perhaps:
>
>        ------||------
>

	Be vary careful though, those are two different types of
capacitors! 

	The first type is known by a miriad of names. The main distinction
between the two is that one is uni-directional, while the other is not.

	-----|(------
	    +  -

This one only charges one way, charge will only build up on one side of the
capacitor. Since analogue signals are basically AC signals, this will not
do, especially with crossovers. ( if used correctly, they can be used for
powersupply ) However, many times you can only find the polarized ones.
You can use TWO of these to make a bi-directional one, just wire them in
series:

	------|(---)|------
	     +  - -  +

Now, charge can build up on either side. However, when wiring two
capacitors in series, remember, their combined capacitance is similar
in method to resistors in parrallel, namely 1/C(total)=1/C(1)+1/C(2)...
( There are some very minor electrical differences, but they only crop
up at extremely high freqencies. )

Let's say you have the exact value for one capacitor ----|(----- you 
need, but can not find any ----||---- types! What are you going to do?
You can hook four of them up in parrallel/series!


		   |----|(---)|----|
That is:     ------|		   |-------
		   |----|(---)|----|

Each capacitor will have 1/2 the voltage, and 1/2 the current flowing
through it, than would an individual one. Which, means you have greater
power handling! ( ever blow a tweeter crossover? )

		
( also remember, thanks to franklin, in electronics, we talk about positive
charges flowing! it is opposite than in the real world! )

HTH.
-- 
So there I was, snuggled in the leather seat of my brand new Ferreri [sic]
I had the oiled wood gear shift in one hands, and the leather wrapped Momo in
the other. And, I had the stereo cranking _Born to be Wild_...
	Only one problem, I was unside [sic] down, under six feet of water...
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,misc.legal