HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP])
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Power and current
Date: 26 Jan 93 16:38:37 GMT
Organization: Paramax Systems

In article <25427@galaxy.ucr.edu>, judson@watserv.ucr.edu (Mike Judson) writes:
|> In article <C1Bq16.2EA@math.okstate.edu> dunne@math.okstate.edu (Ed Dunne)  
|> writes:
|> > If I have an appliance with a heating element rated at 850 watts, how
|> > much current (in amps) is it going to draw in a standard 110V circuit?
|> 
|> 
|> P*V=I
|> thus,
|> (110 V) * (.850 Kw) = 93.5 A
|> 
|> --
|> You know what would make a good story?  Something about a clown 
|> who makes people happy, but inside he's real sad.  Also, he has 
|> severe diarrhea.
|> 
|>                          Jack Handy
|> 
|> judson@watserv.ucr.edu

Wow... It never ceases to amaze me how many responses you get to a
post.  There have to have been at least 6 of these.  Maybe it has something
to do with the way News works.  I mean... I checked to see if
someone else had followed up before I did.  Maybe somebody else out
there is doing the same thing right now.

You what would make a good story...

Something about a guy who says an 850W appliance at 110V pulling
93.5 amps after there have already been at least 6 posts giving 
a correct answer.

The amperage is about 850 / 110 or around 8 or 9 amps.


Party On...


Gary P.


:)

O.K.  I'm sorry!
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:17256 misc.kids:33187
From: alanj@endeavor18.tek.com (Alan Jeddeloh)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.kids
Subject: Re: Water heater temperatures
Date: 22 Jan 93 17:22:42 GMT
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.

In article <1jn0dtINNims@usenet.pa.dec.com> mcnally@wsl.dec.com (Mike McNally) writes:
>I've thought for a while that the widespread practice of
>setting the water heater temperature down to 120 (or even
>lower) is unwise because such temperatures encourage lots
>of microorganisms to flourish.  My preference would be to
>keep the water as high as possible, and then (should a baby
>take up residence in my house) simply keep uninformed tiny
>people *away* from hot water faucets.

(Reply also cross-posted to misc.kids)

Well, that works for a while.  The problem is that uninformed tiny people
rapidly develope tiny minds of their own.  Said tiny minds are little
information sponges, and thus are into getting into anything they can.

The urge to investigate anything and everything is compelling, and they
are the most incredibly *persistant* little people you will ever encounter!

This coming from someone who is about to embark on baby-proofing round three.
The 16-month old (on the 25th) is about to figure out that if she climbs on a
chair, she can reach even *higher*.  (She can already get on the chairs, and
she can also shove the chair around.  The lightbulb will go off in that
tiny person's tiny mind any day now.

Personally, I am going to look into the thermostatically-controlled mixing
valve the goes on the hot water heater outlet.  It would be much easier to
install that in the basement wher the pipes are exposed that bugger up the
shower.  Anybody have info on manufacturer and/or dealers?

--
    Alan Jeddeloh      W:(503) 685-2991  H:(503) 292-9740
    Tektronix, Inc.; D/S 60-850; PO Box 1000; Wilsonville, OR 97070
    Alan.Jeddeloh@tek.com 
    You can put the children to bed, but you can't make them sleep!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Organization: Test Systems Strategies, Inc., Beaverton, Oregon
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 00:33:32 GMT

tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:

>  . . . Our neighborhood also has no solicitation
>signs too. A local neighbor, tired of being bothered by folks from the
>city selling magazines, sicked his dog on the salesman. Guess the word
>got around, haven't had any salemen this year so far!



Whereas I can somewhat believe the above, by legal right, if the homeowner
actually "sicked" his dog on the salesman, the salesman could file a formal
complaint against the homeowner and homeowner's dog with the Animal
Control Agency and also sue the homeowner.  I found out about this the
hard way:  we have a dog.  We have a backyard that we allow the dog to
run around in.  We have one particular neighbor who also has a dog which
roams quite freely (or rather, DID roam freely, but not anymore).  The
neighbor's dog loved to chase cats, especially ours.  One evening, my
wife happened to be outside when our neighbor's dog tore around the
corner of the house chasing our cat.  My wife quickly opened our rear gate,
letting our German Shepherd out.  Our dog, in a moment of confusion, saw
our nextdoor neighbor first (not the same neighbor who owns the cat-chasing
dog) and lunged at said neighbor, who happened to be on our property at
the time, talking to my wife.  My neighbor thrust out her foot and our dog
then went after the other dog.  Our neighbor then registered a complaint
against our dog (yeah, we don't talk to her much anymore), so now we have
posted WARNING signs on our fence about our dog, so that if someone *would*
come into our back yard, at least they'd be warned about the dog, provided
they could read english.

allen
From: hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann)
Subject: Re: wiring diagram
Organization: USC  Department of Computer Science
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:28:43 GMT

hroth@ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Harris Roth) writes:

>Would someone please post or email the wiring diagram for a light(s) controlled
>by three switches.  I know that the circuit requires two - 3 way switches and
>one - 4 way switch.  What I'm not sure of is the wiring and how the internal
>workings of the switches allow any switch to turn the light on or off.
>-- 
>Harris J. Roth, Senior Programmer Analyst    hroth@ncratl.atlantaga.NCR.COM 
>Network Systems                              (404) 623-7749
>Transaction Terminal and Retail Systems Division     
>NCR E&M Atlanta          

Okay, let's see if I can do this in ascii...
What I would tel you to do is to get a continuity meter because not all
4-way switches are standard-I mean some of them have line on top, load
on bottom, and some are line and load on the sides.
here's how you wire it, but remember to connect your travelers from the
3-way to the right terminals on the 4-way otherwise you'll short.

   common      travelers        travelers     common  
 ------0     0----------0     0----------0    0-- 
line         0----------0     0----------0      I
        3way            4way              3way  I
                                                I 
---neutral--------------load--------------------I
 
              Hope you can figure it out by my drawing.  Also, you can
add as many 4ways in ther as you want to.  Just match the travelers.
The contacts in the 3ways go between the common and either traveler, and
the contacts in the 4way are weird.  The contacts sort of make an X.
I'm not even going to try to draw those.  Good Luck.

-Samantha
      
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:51:13 GMT

tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:

>This may sound cruel
Not at all. I think it is just the right thing to do. Especially the pellet
gun part. That's what is going to save my cat from being trapped in the
house the rest of his life (the only way I can fix the problem without your
help). You've gone a little bit out of your way to get what you want, without 
screwing things up for me and Al. If he won't stay away and I won't keep
him away, off to the pound. Just not off to the pound first time you see him.

>It's obvious we disagree. 
I think we do agree. I didn't express myself well in my first post, I was
lamenting the ``why should I be bothered in the least by, or even have to
know the name of, my neighbor.'' syndrome. 

-Mike
From: bircsak@cmpass.mps.mlo.dec.com (John Bircsak)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: HELP! electrical problem
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:59:14 GMT
Distribution: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Yesterday evening we noticed that the lights were periodically
flickering.  Not on and off, but a single slight dim/return to full
every once in a while.  Went to check the fuse box, and when I walked
into the garage immediately noticed a burned/electrical smell (like
when a fuse blows).  None of the fuses were blown, however.  I looked
around in the attic for gnawed on wiring but found none.

We have been so far unable to reproduce this or figure out what
happened.  (And we no longer remember exactly what combination of
lights/appliances was on at the time).

Any hints? Is this an almost-blown fuse?  I suspect at least one of
our circuits to have to much on it.  What should I look for?  Any
hints at all would be greatly appreciated...

-johnb

--
+---------------------------------------------------++++++++
|  John A. Bircsak,  Digital Equipment Corp.        ++++++++
|  Massively Parallel Systems Group                 ++++++++
|  146 Main St., MLO1-5/U46, Maynard MA  01754  USA ++++++++
|  bircsak@mps.mlo.dec.com  (508) 493-2572          ++++++++
+---------------------------------------------------++++++++
From: hester@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Bob Hester)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:34:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Replacement Windows: Vinyl versus Aluminum
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house



	I am also interested in this. My house is only 12 years old. It
has aluminum double pain windows. In the bedroom we have put blankets over
the windows to stop the drafts. I live in Colorado so it gets aliitle cold 
here.  The aluminum frames get frost on the inside of the windows in the
winter, and the seal on the double pains have failed (condensation between 
the pains).
	I also am wondering about replacement windows. Are the vinyl windows
a wise investment? Will they last?  How about wood windows? I heard that 
some wood windows put some kind of vinyl or metal coating on the outside to 
withstand the weather, but yet have the wood interior?  What is the best
thickness of dead air space in the double pain windows?

	I have heard alittle about these two manufacters of windows,

Alumax  - vinyl windows
Anderson  - wood windows

Any comments about these manufacters, other manufacters, best type of window,
or any other comments would be welcome.

Thanks for your response,

Bob Hester
Hewlett Packard
hester@hpsmpa.lvld.hp.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gfadel@eng.clemson.edu (George Fadel)
Subject: 3 speed fan switch
Reply-To: gfadel@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:07:59 GMT

A relative has asked me to repair the ceiling fan switch (located in the fan housing).
I usually have no problem with electrical connections and minor repairs, unfortunately,
someone took the whole unit apart, and all I have is the broken switch with a bunch of
short wires and the main wires from the ceiling.  I have no idea how to wire
the three speed switch, especially since this switch, circular in shape, has eight
slots for wiring connections.  I did purchase a new switch hoping to have some
wiring diagram, but that was not the case.  The books I have on home repairs just
say to rewire it the way it was ???? Any clues?

btw, there is also what I beleive is a reversing switch, its wires are also
hanging out loose.

help..
---

Georges M. Fadel 
Mechanical Engineering Department
Clemson University


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: What to caulk chimney flashing with?
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 23:45:03 GMT

bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams) writes:

>We have a few leaks around the metal flashing that joins our old brick
>chimney to the roof.  What's the best goop for re-caulking this kind of
>thing?  Silicone?  Roofing "tar" from the hardware store?  Some archane
>commercial stuff?  Any suggestions would be welcome.

I have a tube of roof cement designed to be used in a caulking gun, and
designed for joints such as flashing.  I haven't used it yet so I don't
know how well it works yet.  Should be available at any hardware or department
store that carries several types of "stuff" for caulking guns.

You can use roofing tar as well if you wish.

-Mike
From: save@cpva.saic.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cat Repellant
Date: 21 Jan 93 17:31:58 PST
Organization: Science Applications Int'l Corp./San Diego

(James Barrett) writes:
> I've got a twist on the problem with a neighbor's cat (I don't know 
> which one).  The cat walks all over our cars leaving nice dirty 
> paw-prints.  It's been awfully muddy in these parts lately and it's
> driving me up the wall!  Is there anything I could line the driveway 
> with just to discourage the cat from crossing where the cars are?
> 
> Thanks

I'll bet the majority of paw prints are across your hood. If so, the cats 
aren't taking a shortcut, they're taking a nap on the warm hood after you 
come home in the evening.  Nice and toasty up there on a cold winters night. 
I've watched neighborhood cats do this for years.  If this is the case,
they've got you staked and probably aren't going to change their habits.
Heck, it's winter, everybody's car looks like sh_t.  They'll stop when the
weather warms up.

Clark
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to keep deer off my backyard
Date: 23 Jan 93 16:58:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1jn1p6INN17t@hp-col.col.hp.com> tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) writes:

>How about a dog on a temporary lease from a friend or neighbor? Never
>met a deer who liked a dog; and never met a dog who didn't want to catch
>the deer!!!

A dog would probably be the most effective idea, provided it's staked.
Many rural areas have a shoot-on-sight law on dogs running deer.  So, for
the dog's (and the owner's) sake keep it tied up.

I've heard of successes with placing deterrent scents around the property.
Ie: real soap, human hair, zoo-poo from large carnivores.

Another approach would be to provide a deer feeder some distance from the
house with something that they prefer to your shrubs.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: dgs@53iss6.Waterloo.NCR.COM (David G. Schwartz)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Ceiling/Wall Seperation
Date: 25 Jan 93 18:05:15 GMT
Reply-To: dgs@53iss6.Waterloo.NCR.COM (David G. Schwartz)
Organization: Imaging Systems Division, NCR Corp, Waterloo, Ont., CANADA

In article <1993Jan25.162340.16930@cbnewse.cb.att.com> gmark@cbnewse.cb.att.com (gilbert.m.stewart) writes:
>
>We have a 10x14 addition that was put on before we bought the house.
>The seam between the wall over the arch in the entry and the ceiling
>opens up about 1/4" each winter, and closes in the summer.  The addition
>is on a foundation with an opening into the crawlspace to the original
>structure.  There is no apparent condensation nearby.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to fix this?
>

I have seen a few articles on this type of problem in a handyman column
we have in our weekend paper. Basically your problem is being caused by
warping of the ceiling joists caused by changes in moisture levels in the
wood. The warping literally picks the ceiling up off the top of the
interior wall. Short of reconstruction, you are never going to get rid of
this problem. Filling the separation in winter would be a bad idea since
the material would either get crushed out in the summer or act as a fulcrum
to lift the ceiling of one of the walls, or cause other stress problems.

The best solution I have heard of is to build a slip joint to cover the
separation. You take drywall material and attach it at a right angle to
the ceiling parallel to but not attached to the face of the interior wall.
Now when the ceiling goes up and down, the separation will remain hidden -
the wall going up and down in the cavity like a very slow piston.

Crude ASCII drawing alert:

        -----+------+-----
   -----     |      |     -----
---          |      |          ----- ceiling
             ||----|| Slip joint
   Winter     |    |
              |    |   Wall
              V    V


-------------+------+------------  ceiling
             ||----||
             ||    || Slip joint
             ||    ||
   Summer     |    |
              |    |   Wall
              V    V

-------

Remember: Net.advice is usually worth what you pay for it.
VOICE:(519) 884-1710x701 FAX:(519) 884-0610 NCR VoicePlus: 643-1701 DoD#: 0066
Dave.Schwartz@Waterloo.NCR.COM   UUCP: {uunet!ncrcom,maytag}!ncrwat!53iss6!dgs
From: mcnally@wsl.dec.com (Mike McNally)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: No Hot Water (actually, toddlers)
Date: 25 Jan 1993 16:41:05 GMT
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: venice.pa.dec.com

In order to add more fuel to the fire, my wife, working on
her Masters in early childhood education, tells me that
her "Health, Safety, and Nutrition" class was urged by the
health department RN teaching the course to keep hot water
heaters above 120 degrees to reduce bacterial growth.


Yes, the RN may have been nuts.

--
==============y=o=u='=r=e===a=l=l===s=t=e=a=m=e=d===u=p===j=o=e================
   Mike +   Software +   Digital Equipment +   Western Software +      mcnally@
McNally +    Laborer +         Corporation +         Laboratory +   wsl.dec.com
===============================================================================
From: jefftb@sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Subject: Re: Septic System Issues???
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:56:14 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.9 PL6]


  You might want to go to your county health dept. or who ever takes care 
  of septic permits and such. Around here that have pamplets free or cheap
  that explian lots of stuff and charts that convert perk test results
  to number of feet of leach line. Even with the budget cuts they are pretty
  helpfull around here. I geuss they are tried of dealing with failing systems.

  Good Luck 
  Jeff Brown
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What in the wide, wide world-o-sports isa
Date: 22 Jan 1993 21:20:57 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 8566@noose.ecn.purdue.edu, merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu (Michael C Merrifield) writes:
>
>and  found the top of a clay tile stack which is 7' deep!   There was
>water at the bottom but I couldn't tell what the "bottom" was.   That
>should put it at about the foundation.   The top section of the stack
>(the flared part) was simply covered by a crudely cut piece of  sheet
>metal.

Could be a cistern.  It was like a well, but not as deep, and was
filled with rain water.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: shannah@netcom.com (Teri Miller)
Subject: Re: Bogus Pest Control Inspection
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 20:11:36 GMT

In article <48600004@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM> keith@hpkslx.mayfield.HP.COM (Keith Richards) writes:
>The damage is primarily from dry rot.  However the inspector that came
>in low claims the damage is all "superficial" and the guy that came in
>high (Clark Pest Control of Burlingame, CA) claims it is structural.
>Incidently a structural engineer came to the house and sided with the
>low inspector.  The high inspector had wild estimates for repair costs
>as well.  For instance he had a major bullet of $28,000 for replacing
>timbers in the basement.  The low inspector put in perspective by
>saying "... OK, let's give him $3000 for materials (plenty) and say
>he charges $500 labor per day (a lot).  That means he plans to spend
>50 days doing work in our basement!!  Pretty outrageous.
>Unfortunately we are simply screwed by this crook.  Their appears to
>be no good solution.  He wins, we loose.  All I can say is it is a
>good thing I am a nonviolent individual.
>
Considering that pest inspections aren't that expensive (what, $150?)
in relationship to the house itself, why not just get a 3rd inspection?

If I were looking at a house, and found a high pest report, I would
inspect the house myself to see if I agreed with the report.  If I
didn't know enough to check the house myself, but there were 3 reports,
and one was really high and the other two agreed with each other, I'd
make a note of the company with the high report (so I could avoid them)
and assume that the two that agreed were correct.

The other thing you could ask for (might cost money, I'm not sure) is
to have the company with the high bid itemize just where they are coming
up with their figures.  That way, if their cost for labor is high, that
will be pretty obvious, and if they are planning to use unreasonably
expensive materials, that will be obvious, too.

If this high bid is truly unreasonable, as I suspect it is, I believe
you have legal recourse.  Our inspector wouldn't let me follow him 
around, because he said he was legally liable for his report, and didn't
want to risk missing something because he was chatting with me.

He did give me a full verbal report afterwards, though.

Have you tried contacting the BBB or the licensing board?

-- 
*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*
Teri Miller                    tmiller@cisco.com -or- shannah@netcom.com
*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*--*
From: smjeff@lerc05.lerc.nasa.gov (Jeff Miller)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Deer in the yard
Date: 26 Jan 93 14:46:57 GMT
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center, Cleveland Ohio

In article <C1BAqL.C5H@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange) writes:
>Try urine-marking. I walked a circle around my tomatoes last summer and
>the deer quit eating them. 


I bet you had trouble giving them away to your neighbors also.


-- 
Jeffrey H. Miller     smjeff@lerc05.lerc.nasa.gov
Sverdrup Technology, NASA Lewis Research Center Group, Cleveland, Ohio

favorite book title: Attack of the Deranged Mutant Killer Monster Snow Goons