HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Defogger and A/C compressor question
Date: 18 Dec 92 15:44:31 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
> If the cycles last only a couple of seconds, that indicates low refrigerant
>causing the low-side pressure switch tho cut the compressor out. Longer
    (stuff left out)
>Running the compressor without refrigerant is a bad thing; hence low-side
>cutout switches. If you're cycling frequently due to very low refrigerant
>you're not doing your A/C system a favor.

The problem is that oil, necessary for compressor survival, circulates
with the refrigerant.  If no refrigerant, no oil circulation and the
compressor seizes if run too much - not good :-(

Moral: if it short-cycles, get it fixed!

-DaveP
From: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM (Dennis Henderson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Stalling 2.8l from Hell
Date: 19 Dec 1992 01:17:30 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: oversteer

Here are some problems and fixes on my GM 2.8L V6.

My '85 Pontiac 6000STE with the 2.8L lost it's mass air flow sensor (~75K mi) 
as evidenced by poor running and the error code (not certain if it was 
34....)    Replacing it solved the problem.  This is a common failure after 
50K miles.  They are pricey at $150 or so but easy to replace yourself so you 
can save a few bucks.

I had a distributor cap fail on this car.  The center contact that is 
spring loaded either wore away or retracted.  Either way it was not making 
contact to the rotor.  Car barely started and ran poorly.  This was an 
early life fail or a non-GM/independent unit.  Replacement cured the problem.

The idle bypass valve was causing stalling at idle periodically.  Removed this 
by unscrewing.  Cleaned the plunger tip of oil bypass crud.  Worked fine for 
5k miles so far. 

If you haven't replaced plug wires by 60K you should consider it.  This cures 
eratic idle and missing at part throttle acceleration.

I'd replace the ignition module if not already done after about 50K miles.  
These fail and fail hard so the car won't run.  Save yourself the breakdown 
and have a spare (keep the old one in the trunk).  Don't forget to use the silicon 
grease where the parts mounts as the instructions indicate.  If not the new 
part will fail prematurely.

At 84K miles this car now idles and run better than it has for 20K miles.  

..Dennis Henderson, '85 Pontiac 6000STE, '84 Z28 5LHO, '88 Ford E150 van 302cid



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help with engine diagnosi
Date: 20 Dec 92 14:01:00 GMT
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel)
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569


  >>>Subject: Help with engine diagnosis
  >>>Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:42:01 GMT

RZ>>>I need help diagnosing an engine problem.  I have a 1987 Chrysler
  >>>LeBaron with a 2.2L turbo engine.  When the engine is hot, it hesitates
  >>>badly with normal acceleration.  It is fine cold, at idle hot or cold,
  >>>with heavy acceleration, or at speeds above 55mph.  It seems as if it
  >>>cuts out to shift when rpm is below 2500.  It does this in neutral as
  >>>well if I race the engine.  I had the fuel pump and filter replaced one
  >>>month ago.  The timing was also done at that time.

RZ>>>Any suggestions as to where I should begin to look?
  >>>--ralph
  >>>--
  >>>Ralph J. Zottola                        Graduate Student

Pretty deep subject.
        See if it shows any codes 1st, Turn key off and on 4 times
        without starting the engine. This will cause the power loss
        light to start flashing codes. Ezxample:
        Flash.....flash..........flash.....etc. The long pause is the
        separator for the tens digit. The one demoed is code 21. The
        sequence is over when it flashes 55.
..
        Now, the problem you describe could be several things, Throttle
        Position Sensor, MAP sensor(located ON computer behind passenger
        side kick panel), Air temp sensor(located on intake manifold in
        middle top). Those are most common, also possibility of carbon
        build-up on the valves although this usually causes cold
        drivability problems.
         Check the codes and let us know what they are.
                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                                                   
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: Torque curve question...
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 14:20:59 GMT

In article <n11bct@ofa123.fidonet.org> Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org writes:

>Well, I've asked this before and never got a response, so I guess 
>I'll just keep on asking. Does anybody know where I can get 
>plotted torque/rpm curves for American engines?  Any magazine 
>sources?

umm, have you tried contacting the engine manufacturer?  I know that Cummins
literature includes torque and horsepower curves for their engines...

Walt 'death-before-gas-pigs' K.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dje@mail.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Subject: Re: Post flood maintenance - seeking advice
Reply-To: dje@mail.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 19:49:41 GMT
Keywords: flood damage, preventive maintenance

In article <1992Dec18.182139.5579@nynexst.com>, gary@xserver.nynexst.com (Gary Matison) writes:
|> During last week's sudden storm in the New York area, we unexpectedly
|> encountered badly flooded roads and ended up driving for a few minutes
|> through water that was roughly axle high.
|> 
|> Are there any prescribed maintenance procedures to follow after this
|> wonderful experience? A dealer suggested replacing all wheel bearings -
|> is that reasonable at this point?
|> 
|> Thanks in advance for any info or experiences you can share.
|>  
|> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|> Gary G. Matison

Gary.. sounds like your dealer doesn't have enough shop work, so
he'd like to keep himself busy at your expense.

IF you only went through water for a few minutes, and it was only
axle high.. the wheel bearings have seals that keep grease in/dirt
water out.. they should be uneffected by this brief immersion (the
grease itself will tend to keep the water out, but combined with
the seals.. it is VERY unlikely that any water has penetrated your
wheel bearings),

If you're REALLY worried, and want to take the time - remove one of
the grease caps (you can usually get at them by removing a wheel..
which end depends on your drive type - front wheel or rear wheel).

If there is water inside the cap.. then you may want to have the
bearings repacked. If not, forget about it.  If you have constant
velocity joints in your driveline (front wheel drive, or independent
rear wheel drive), you may want to crawl under the car and make sure
you have no cracked boots.. water will tear up a CV joint in short
order, if the boot is cracked (but then it will also penetrate when
you go down a wet road in the rain.. just takes a bit longer).

I wouldn't overly worry about it. I intentionally went through water
this deep during the storm last weekend to retrieve a flooded out
mother-in-law (not a car, a person)... and didn't give it a second
thought, except to take the car to a carwash shortly afterwards and
have a complete wash (with "undercarriage bath") done, since the water
I was going through was salt.. and I tend to be paranoid about my
cars.

Don Eilenberger (dje@mail.bellcore.com)

DISCLAIMER: I may not know what I'm talking about, and Bellcore
certainly doesn't know what I'm talking about. You could have
a wheel fall off next week, but I'd guess it about as likely as
being hit by lightning in December..


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Freewheeling Engines
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 07:53:54 GMT

Thomas A. Brunner (tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote:
: 
: In summary, I would suspect that most engines with timing belts are
: free spinning.  Those OHC engines with chains probably are not. A
: manufacturer may build an engine with a belt that does not free spin.
: The manufacturer has a great deal of confidence in his design, and you
: have a big bill if he is wrong. 

: Thomas Brunner

Great idea in theory, but unfortunately there are many belted-engines out
there which do NOT freewheel.  In an ideal world, all car companies would
be more concerned about quality than cost, but unfortunately they try to 
get away cheap, at the expense of durability.

Most timing belts will go for, maybe, 50,000 miles.  By that time, most 
owners have traded the car in or whatever, so the initial consumer isn't
the one who sees the problem.  Unfortunately, if you keep it for longer
than that, you pay the price for the poor engineering.

Timing belts are quieter, a LOT cheaper, and last the length of time
that most new-car buyers own the car.  BUT, if you don't change them 
every 40-50,000 miles, you are asking for a meltdown.  

Solution?  If you're planning to keep a car for a while, get one with
a chain, or change the belt whenever reccomended.  Chains can break
too (so I've heard, never seen one), but not nearly as often.

Remember....."Ford <and most others> Has a Cheaper Idea."

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dti@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Robert Mittelstadt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota Corolla problem.
Date: 11 Dec 1992 21:34:59 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Summary: Distributor? Alternator?
Keywords: electrical problems ?
Originator: dti@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

Ok.. I've got an '81 Corolla 1.8 liter 5 speed. It's a nifty little car, 
albeit a bit  slow. Anyways.. A  few days ago, my car wouldn't start in 
the  morning. I'm in Wisconsin, it's cold, so I figure a jump start or
a push start would work. We tried everything from a  plug in AC battery
charger,  to push starting with 3 people, to push starting with a 367
Chevelle. Nada. So, I ponder..  I put in a new battery, and it starts right
up. Yay. The next  day, however, I'm  driving  at a nice 45 mph, and the 
engine dies. Ka-put. Couldn't  jumpstart,  pushstart, etc,etc. If I try
to  start it  myself, it does nothing. Doesn't crank or anything,  and  the
annoying little buzzing  noise I get when I have  the key in and the key
in  the ON position isn't   there,   nor does the radio work  (the lights
do,  however). Is this an alternator problem, or a distributor, or? Any
ideas?

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
dti@csd4.csd.uwm.edu      - Tune in, Turn on, Drop out - Do it today ------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Power Steering Assist
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 14:20:13 -0500

 > Is there any way to modify the power assist to the steering
 > to suit
 > one's needs?  I am looking at a Ford Mustang (93) that
 > I am thinking
 > of purchasing and one of the things I'm wondering about
 > is decreasing
 > the amount of power assist to the steering, maybe by 1/2
 > or so... is
 > this possible (to do it cheaply? <100 bucks?)?  This may
 > be a major
 > consideration in purchasing the car... please email replies.
 >
 
 
There may be some way to do it...but I do not know how.
The new firebird and camaro will be out in a week or 2...they are 
modern cars so the mustangs will be offored for lower prices real 
soon.  The ford probe might be more like what you are looking for, 
but in any case wait for the new gm f body cars so you can drive 
em and either buy one, or take advantage of the soon to be lower 
prices on mustangs
From: dcwst8+@pitt.edu (David C Winters)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: All-Wheel Drive/4x4 Questions.
Date: 20 Dec 92 16:00:49 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


     This post's about all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive.  First of
all, are they the same?  I've already heard:
        a.  they're two different names for the same thing.
        b.  they're slightly different drive systems.
        c.  they're vastly different drive systes.
     Which is correct?

     I've also heard some opinions that assume that AWD and 4x4 are
_not_ the same thing; the thing is, they are judged under two different
yardsticks.
       #1.  On dry pavement, the AWD systems beat the 4x4 systems where
out-'n'-out performance is concerned (acceleration, traction, etc.)
       #2.  On any none-dry pavement (ice, snow, but not off-roading),
the 4x4 systems will perform a little better, but they are far safer
than the AWD systems (traction, etc. - but talking about here-to-there
driving, not sports car-driving).
     These two aren't talking about the same _manner_ of driving, so
they really can't be compared to each other (at least, I don't think
so), but are either of these points correct?  Any other general
knowledge along these lines?

     If this isn't the right place for this stuff, where should I look?

--
David Winters
winters@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 12:50:18 EST
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog?

wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher) says:
>
>The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs.
>As I recall ... the XJ-12.

A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:16949 rec.autos:30206 misc.consumers:20985
From: murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos,misc.consumers
Subject: The case of the exploding distributor cap.  Need help.
Date: 20 Dec 92 04:06:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.BzJI2L.BsI.2
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

i was driving down I78 from Pittsburgh to NY on a business trip in my
Buick Century.  It was 1:30 in the morning and I was around Allentown.
The rotor exploded and took entire distributor cap with it.  
At the same time, it set the distributor cap on fire right under the
coil.  I put out the fire but could not see the extent of the damage.

I called AAA and had the car towed  to a CITGO station.  I rented a car
and drove on to my meeting.  Next morning the mechanic tells me that all
the wires were burnt (not true) and that he needed to replaced the 
distributor.  I gave him the OK on the phone.  He replaced the distributor
the rotor and the cap and I got the car back two days later at 5:00/

I took a look at my distributor and it looks just fine to me.  Not one 
wire is burnt or even slightly damaged.  In fact the assembly seems 
better than the one he put in.

I was in no position to argue as I had to leave for a meeting the next day.
I paid with my visa card and drove out. As luck would have it the car died
about 75 miles away.  I stayed the night at a motel and the next morning
AAA towed the car to another mechanic on I78.  He diagnosed that the 
ignition module was bad.  After he replaced the module, the car ran just 
fine.  The old stalling and surging problem I had went away.  

Now the questions I have are
1. What recourse do I have against the mechanic who replaced
a distributor that was just fine.  He charged me $250 for this.  It
should have been just a 10 minute job replacing the cap, rotor 
and the module.  Because he replaced the distributor he had to set the
timing too, so I had to pay for $75 for labour and $125 for the distributor from
a junkyard.

Can I stop payment on the visa.  SHould I file a court case against him. 
How about the better business bureau.  

I have complained to AAA about him and will pursue this too.   I think
he is a AAA authorized facility.

2. What caused the rotor to explode and set the cap on fire.

3. Someone mentioned that I should put silicone grease near the module.  
What kind.  I know that the mechanic did not do any such thing.

4. Should I replace the ignition coil and the magnetic pickup in the distributor?

5. Lastly now my idle is up to 1500 rpm or so.  How do I fix this.  I think
somebody upped the idle to fix the problem with the solenoid. 

Thank you
Sesh Murthy
PS: about the car
84 Build century, 2bbl carburettor, 3.0 L V6 with 103000 miles on it.
It used to run rough when cold and used to display remarkable lack
of power.  Now it has plenty of power and runs fine when cold.

I am the second owner.  I had not replaced the rotor on buying the car.

 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Diesels and durability...  WAS: Re: HP-Torque of chevy V-6?
Originator: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 18:33:13 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.112207.13139@bsu-ucs> 00bndaniels@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
 
>	Aren't diesel engines more durable than gas engines?  I 
>also read some where that Cummins' engines have a good warranty?
>Is this true?  Any insights greatly appreciated
>Daniels

Yes, Diesels _can be_ much more durable than gasoline engines.  Reasons for
this include a generally larger/stronger structure (block, crank, rods,
bearings, etc) to handle the higher cylinder pressures inherent in Diesel
operation, generally lower-rpm operation results in much lower piston-speed and
the combustion-process itself is smoother and more uniform -- it is more a
constant-pressure expansion than the explosive constant-volume expansion in a
gasoline cylinder.  I said '...can be ...' above because folks unfamiliar with
Diesels often inadvertantly abuse them through too-long oilchange interval, use
of incorrect oils (*15*W-40 SG/CE *NOT* *10*W-40 SG/CD, for example).  Control
of water contamination of the fuel system is also critical as is air filter
care.  Exhaust backpressure needs to be as *LOW* as absolutely possible, too.
If turbocharged (all *real* Diesels are turbocharged), proper shut-down
procedures must be used (idle several minutes, or 3 minutes after exhaust temp
is below 300F as indicated on pyrometer, if so equipped).  Cummins engines are
warranted by Cummins (travel to your nearest Cummins dealer and buy one off the
shelf) for (I think I read this most recently) 2-years and unlimited miles.
The Cummins engine installed by Dodge is warranted for 7yrs/100000miles.  To
give an insight as to the output of the Cummins B-series engines, the variant
used by Dodge is the wimpiest of them (if one calls 400lb-ft@1700 wimpy,
especially since it's only a six-cylinder of 359cid).  Gas-pigs can *never*
deliver that output reliably and economically.  And for benefit of anyone that
_thinks_ otherwise, make me aware of a gas-pig with these characteristics --
650lb-ft@1700, 230hp@2500, 359cid, 0.38lbs_of_fuel-per-bhp-hr *and* a two year,
unlimited miles warranty (I just described the Cummins B5.9-230, fyi, a stock,
off the shelf engine).

Walt 'death-before-gas-pigs' K.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Please Identify this Car!! Help me, to!
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 20:23:43 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.113725.61942@cc.usu.edu> slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
>My car is a Pontiac Sunbird Convertible.

>The fourth digit of the VIN is a J
>The tenth digit of the VIN is an H

>So, according to Chilton's ...  my car should be:

>Engine Code    Cu. In.      Liters     Cyl.     Fuel Sys.    Year
>   J           110 (OHC)     1.8        4        MFI Turbo    '87

>So, why does my car differ then what the book says it should be?

The engine code digit is (I believe) the eighth one. The book is right, you
just used the wrong digit. I used to have a car like that- I think your
engine code is "P". I think the fourth digit is the chassis line (ie, "J"
car).

>I got the AC re-charged.  It worked for about a week, then stopped working.

>Anyways, I was looking at the big metal case that has a little metal pipe
>that goes into the radiator, then out of it, then to a smaller little metal
>case, then into the compresor?

Based on this description, I think you are talking about the dryer, a device
that removes moisture and contamination (to a point) from the freon/oil mix
in the system.

>Anyways, the smaller little metal case is cracked competely in half.
>With this being like that, would it have any effect on engine performance?

Your system, if what I think is the problem, is definately open. I don't
know what contaminants have worked their way into the compressor. However,
provided you don't engage the A/C compressor (which usually also means
defrost on GM cars), you won't lose performance, even if, as I believe has
happened, the lack of oil and the contamination has started to sieze your
compressor.

	-Kenny

-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate)
Subject: Re: Gasoline differences?
Organization: CDAC, WA
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 23:08:22 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.011655.14797@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu> roskar@kavazi.uucp.jhu.edu (Veljko Roskar) writes:
>In article <39670095@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> mtc@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mark Cousins) writes:
>->
>->Any pointers you have, given the information I've supplied above, would be
>->welcome.
>->
>
>
>I had a little knocking in my 92 Accord EX when going up hill or accelerating
>fast (>4000) rpm when using regular fuel. I tried adding Chevron's Techron
>injector cleaner and raised the knock limit to 4500 RPM. Now I use a blend
>of 3 gallons of 93 octane and 12 galloins of 87 regular and have no knocking
>problem. Make sure the co. you buy gas from uses detergents in ALL of
>their gasoline grades.

 I think you have a problem here.  The Accord is tuned for 87 Oct.  The car
is too young to have knocking. I suggest you get a good tuneup and adjust the
timing (delay it a tad). If you are still breaking in your car, 4500 rpm is
too fast anyway. 

-S
ssave@ole.cdac.com

>Veljko Roskar                           roskar@kavazi.uucp.jhu.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech