HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: NEED ROTARY ENGINE (1
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 5 Nov 92 16:03:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet

to: Re: Need Rotary Engine (12A)

-> It has been alleged to me that a complete engine rebuild for a Mazda
-> rotary is something like $150 down at your Mazda engine shop.  I'd be
-> curious to know if this is the case...

 Maybe for labor, but hardly for parts.  North Point Mazda near here
wanted $360 just for a 12A gasket and seal set, $125 each for rotors,
and so forth, and those prices are several years old.
                                                                                                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kokerj@vccnorthd.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: Trouble with a new car - What to do.
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 19:27:28 GMT

In article <1992Nov3.184333.5659@dsd.es.com> sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender) writes:
>Perhaps the collective wisdom of this newsgroup can give sage
>advice in working with a dealership.
>
>A work associate of mine just bought a new VW Corrado SLC.
>This morning (with less than 300 miles on the car), he
>lost oil-pressure and the temperature immediately jumped
>to 220+ degrees (in near-freezing weather).  As quickly as
>he could, he stopped and discovered that there was no 
>measurable oil on the dipstick... in fact it took four
>quarts to bring it up to "normal".

I presume that he did at one point have oil pressure. Were there any
signs of leaks? How far had he driven? "As quickly as he could", is 
not a good way to check your oil after driving. You have to let the 
oil drain back into the pan. Has he checked it recently to see if he
in fact over filled it? A bad grounding strap or a short has been 
known to put more than one ghost in VW dashboards.

>The response from the dealer (VW, Porsche, AUDI) appears
>to be that they will "check it out", change the oil, and
>give him the car back...  I contend that the jump in 
>temperature is a good indication that internal components
>suffered highly increased friction without benefit of
>lubrication.  

This increased friction usually causes a noticeble loss of power.

>What should he reasonably and justifiably demand of the 
>dealership?  Should the main & rod bearings be pulled for 
>inspection/replacement?  Should more be pulled for inspection
>(valvetrain, cam-bearings, pistons/rings)?  Other?

No, don't give the dealership mechanics a chance to ruin something else.
If the problem is not electrical, and the car was run without oil (and
it is the fault of whoever prepped it), Demand nothing less than a new 
car. Let them keep it as a demo.

>Any help will be appreciated.
>
>Note:  Comments on his coice of car, and speculation into 
>       driving habits are not welcome.

Sorry... Keep in mind that vw's tend to come off the line with a lot of
bugs...they're great cars though.

>-- 
>Steve Bender
>Evans & Sutherland
>(801) 582-5847
>Salt Lake City, UT 84108
>
>sbender@dsd.es.com

--Jim
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Difference btw R42TS and
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:49:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


     !@#and I wonder what the differents between R42CTS and R42TS is...
     !@#It boils down to the 'C'... what does it mean?

Copper Electrode. Let me know how much message I quoted...mail reader
messing up.
                                                Thanks,
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
            
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: advice on engine manual
Followup-To: poster
Date: 13 Nov 1992 01:49:35 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

A friend is using a 1987 Chevrolet 454 to run a winch. 
Said winch is pulling gliders aloft in Great Britain.

He's looking for advice on an overhaul manual. Does Helm, Inc or
whatever it's called, sell engine-only manuals? Or is he better off
with an __________ book?

Mail Please.
--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 13:43:22 GMT

In article <Bx7n5p.1Go@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar) writes:

>Here is how it was explained to me. Most of this is coming right out of a
>book that is called "Chilton`s Easy Car Care", so I assume it to be
>factual. 

*not* necessarily a good assumption...

>If your car does have radials, only rotate front to back. I will just quote
>the book for this one...

>"There are certain exceptions to tire rotation, however. Studded snow tires
>should not be rotated, and radials should be kept on the same side of the
>car (maintain the same direction of rotation). The belts on radial tires
>get set in a pattern. If the direction of rotation is reversed, it can
>cause rough ride and vibration."

>So there it is...

>BTW this book was written in 1985, so it is reasonably current.

Well, actually, Mike... it *isn't* current enough...  This provides a wonderful
example of why the 'net' is not the pllace to turn for this question.  Since
one printed reference was quoted above, I'll counter with another...

pg 22-9, 1990 Rear Wheel Drive Truck Service Manual, Copyright 1989, Chrysler
Motors --

"The suggested methods of tire rotation ... are illustrated below (Figs. 8 and
9).  The methods are completely compatible with the tire industry's currently
recommended procedure for rotation of radial-ply and bias-ply tires.  Other
rotation patterns/methods can be used, but they will not necessarily provide all
the tire longevity benefits that are derived from the suggested methods."

Fig 8 depicts rotation pattern for single-rear wheel vehicle both with and
without spare and shows 'rearward-cross' pattern

Fig 9 depicts same for a dual-rear wheel vehicle.

So you see, your tire's manufacturer or representative there-of is the only
reliable source for the *correct* rotation pattern/method...

Walt K.
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 13 Nov 92 03:58:12 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

paul@sdd.hp.com (Paul K Johnson) writes:

>In article <BxKyAD.Fu@news.cso.uiuc.edu< mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!) writes:

><but I still think the best choice is a 70 or 71 (the 69's are VERY RARE).  
><Even though the 280 accelerates a little faster, the 240 is so pleasant to
><drive.  It handles better due to less weight and it's more fun to drive due
><to razor-sharp throttle response.

>Except that they are very susceptible to crosswinds.  The 260's and on
>don't have that problem.

Oh yes, that's right, get an airdam for the front of your 240Z.  It solves the
problem entirely, and the good ones are near-invisible.  And without an air-
dam, the car is not hellishly susceptible; it's just a noticeable thing, not
really a problem.

><And
><make sure you use premium gas.  It really needs the octane.

>I have been truly amazed at the '77 and '78 Z regarding octane.  You can
>give it the worst gas under the worst conditions and never hear a single
>ping.  Awesome!

I suppose that has something to do with low compression and retarded spark...
><
><I would also recommend two things if you have the $$ for it.  Number one, if
><you plan to do any highway driving in an early Z, mothball the original trans-
><mission and get a 5-speed from a 280Z.  

>Better yet, just get a 280!

Why?  The 240's acceleration is almost as good, the engine behaves far more
pleasantly, it looks lots better, and overall it's more pleasant to drive,
weighing several hundred pounds less than the 280.  The only plus with the
280 is you can buy it cheaper.  Gee, I suppose there's a reason for that...
-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15220 rec.autos:26322
From: rom@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Rommy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Craftsman Timing Light (Inductive vs Advance)
Date: 10 Nov 1992 19:41:40 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: rom@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

I have recieved $100 of certificates from Sears for their out of court         
settlement.  With the $100 I plan to but a Craftsman Timing Light but I have
never used a timing light & don't know which is the best type to purchase.  The
choices are a chrome Advance light (around $65) & the black plastic Inductive
light ($35).  I will primarily be using the light on a 1968 Camaro & the Titanic( a 1976 Ford LTD wagon with HEI).  But I may use it on later cars if this     
matters in the choice between the two models of lights.  I don't know is the
difference between the two that the Inductive unit can be used on computer    
controlled engines & the Advance unit cannot.  
Specifically what would I be getting by spending almost double for between the
2 units & is the price worth it in your opinion.
Also I will be choosing between one of 3 engine analyzers they have.  All of
them have dwell, tach, & RPM capabilities.  Their prices are $35, $45, & $70 for
the digital unit.  Any opinion on the guage type vs fully digital analyzers.

Thanks

Rommy

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson) 
Subject: Granada Automatic Problems
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 12:50:09 GMT


Has anyone experienced this strange problem before ?

My Granada Auto (1986 2.8i Ghia) box seems to behave perfectly EXCEPT
if I or it wants to change 3->2 between 40 and about 47 mph.
Its fine 3->2 from 0-40 mph.
Its fine 3->2 from 47-75 mph.

Between 40 and 47 changing 3->2 by opening the throttle, using kickdown
or pulling the stick into 2 causes the appearance of a neutral position
(engine on rev limit, no forward power) for about 1 or 2 seconds, after 
which 2nd is engaged.

Similar SLIGHT flare-up on 1->2 on light throttle.

It appears I have a problem going into 2nd, but its very specific and the
change is perfect at other speeds.

It is under warranty, but the selling dealer appears not to have a clue.
(Not a FORD dealer - I bought it used from another main dealer).

Any ideas on what the problem is or what I should do ?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vwp@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (mark.a.skala)
Subject: Re: The Gasaver: what's the deal
Organization: AT&T Network Systems
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 20:36:08 GMT

In article <12130062@hpmwga.sr.hp.com> jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown) writes:
>  Has anyone ever heard of something called the "Gasaver" it claims by 
>  injecting platinum into the combustion chamber that it will increase
>  fuel mileage by "up to" 22%. This  uses the same properties of the 
>  catalyic converter. 
>  Any way a call to their 800 number says that it costs $89.00 for 
>  24,000miles worth. It mounts in the pcv line so it can suck it into 
>  the combustion chamber. 
>  To me it sounds like another snake oil thing but I was wondering ig
>  any one has tried it.
>  Thanks
>  Jeff Brown

Every couple of years these things show up in advertisements subtlely
disguised to look like newspaper or magazine articles.  This is a bottle
of liquid that you add this platinum-containing stuff to, which is
supposed to be sucked in the form of air bubbles into something tee'd
into manifold vacuum.  Their idea (I have no evidence to prove or disprove
it) is that the platinum is a catalyst for better fuel burning in the
combustion chamber rather than have some go unburnt until the platinum
catalyst in your catalytic converter burns it.  Therefore the fuel
economy is improved.

BS alert flags: (my opinion)
  o  This shows up every once in a while and then disappears, probably
     when the sucker pool dries up each time.
  o  They show results on fleets and give the names of the places (a school
     is one I think) but they don't say the conditions.  i.e., if they
     told the bus drivers about the devices installed, if they tuned up
     the vehicles first, whatever.
  o  They say you may not notice the improvement for up to 2000 miles,
     therefore moving you out of their 30day guarantee unless you drive
     a lot really soon after buying it.  (also you'd think that their
     'theory' above would make for immediate results)
  o  Work out the financials:  assume $95 including whatever shipping
     and 24000 miles at $1.15/gallon.  Assume you actually can get
     a 22% increase in mileage (not likely).  This shows that a car that
     got 30mpg before would only save $71 after subtracting cost of the
     unit.  If you get 50mpg or better now, you actually LOSE money EVEN
     WITH A 22% IMPROVEMENT.  Not that many cars actually get 50mpg, but
     my point is that any gain, whether real or from changed driving
     habits, will have to be pretty high in order to justify paying $95
     to get it. 

I got one in '88 back when I wasn't so smart.  I never did prove any gain or
loss of mileage.
From: ronk@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Ron King)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:53:01 GMT
Subject: Neg. Camber vs. Stability
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

    Does anyone know about the ralationship of camber to stability for the
front wheel alignment on a rear drive car?  Most alignment specs for rear
drive cars set wheel alignment to +.5 to 1 degree.  However most performance
alignments set the camber negative from 0 to -1 degree.  This negative camber
does provide better cornering traction, but I've experienced a tendency for
the car to wander when going straight down the highway, and also a reduced
on center feel at highway speeds.  Has anyone noticed this also?  Is the 
cause of this due to the fact that negative camber increases the radius that
the contact patch travels through out the steering range?  On most cars 
negitive camber moves the contact patch further out board from the steeing
pivot point.  Is this the cause for the instability, even though its only a
difference of 1/4 inch? 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Corvette Turbos
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 16:21:23 GMT

In article <1992Nov7.074042.10677@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, ctoth@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Christopher M Toth) writes:
>
>	Is it possible to get a Turbo Corvette?
>

Yes.  There's a third party group with an excellent reputation for modifying 
Corvettes, Callaway Engineering.

Last one I remember seeing (older) was the Callaway Twin Turbo.  I'd also heard
mention of a Callaway SledgeHammer (turbocharged ZR1 ?).   I seem to recall
that they've been working with Nitrous Oxide injection modifications to both 
the stock LT1 and to the ZR1.   From what I understand, the ZR1 version of the 
NO2 injection pulled an estimated 520HP  (someone correct me if I have this 
wrong). 

Hopefully someone out there will have more detailed information on this.

Alex
 

>
>Thanks
>
>-- 
>Christopher M. Toth                   "With an Iron fist in a velvet glove
>The Ohio State University              We are sheltered under the gun
>Columbus State                         In the glory game on the power train
>CIS/History Major                      Thy's kingdom's will be done."-Rush
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Subject: Re: TESTING of antifreeze chemical balances?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:51:22 GMT

In article <1992Nov7.191310.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov> schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
> What are the paramters to test in ethylene gycol antifreeze? Like Ph what
>should it be? and other chemical balances. I've use the same anti freeze in
>my 88 toyota pu for 130k. I periodically pull the radiator cap off look for
>crud, stick my finger in there and feel for junk. It's clean. I replaced the
>water pump at 95k beacuse of a bearing failure and there was no signs of
>pitting or that white flower stuff. I top off the resevoir with those
>"extend" products about once a year and add a little distilled water. The hoses
>are original too and I saturate them a few times a year with silicone, I use
>up one spray can each time. I know this goes agianst common wisdom, but
>who sets the rules? The chemical companies.
>
>Kris
>
>

These are the tests I use:  1). specific gravity 2). EMF generation.

The specific gravity can be tested with a hydrometer (I use a REALLY cheap
one);  I set my mixture so that the freezing protection is roughly -25F.  If
you really want to be exotic, use a refractometer to check the specific gravity
(you'll get the same results as with a good hydrometer).  The second test is
based on a SAE publication from 1980 (it's in a book whose title is something
like COOLANT TESTING:  STATE OF THE ART).  You'll need a digital voltmeter (or
a high impedance analog meter accurate around the 500 mV range).  One probe is
grounded and the other one is inserted into the radiator's filler cap.  If the
read voltage (ignore polarity) is less than 300 mV, the corrosion protection is
good (on my cars, I read 100 mV).  300 mV to 500 mV is marginal, and above 500
mV the coolant should be replaced immediately.  The book also covers corrosion
electrochemistry, corrosion protections, and a prototype corrosion sensor
which, for some reason, never made it into the market.  My recollection is that
scientists at GM developed this test and this sensor.

Hope this helps.

Bohdan Bodnar
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: water/gas mix
Date: 4 Nov 92 21:52:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

In reference to the recents posts 'bout the gas/water/soap mix..
I tried my little experiment:
Using a 1 Qt. Mason jar, I filled about halve with gas, added Dawn(tm)
dishwashing soap( 2 Tablespoons ) then filled with water.  The Dawn
dissolved/mixed very well with the gas. Turned it milky pink. As
expected the water went straight to the bottom. So I put the lid on and
shook it up. I got a very good solution of flamable FOAM. I know it
burns because I soaked a rag with it and lit it. Not much smoke or
stink. I then set the jar up and let it sit. It very quickly started to
separate. In 30 minutes I had half a jar of water and half a jar of pink
soap/gas mix. Now if it settles that fast  I don't want it in my gas
tank! After this test I tried another batch using Ultra Tide w/
bleach(tm) I couldn't get the Tide to disolve at all. Anyone else have
any ideas for a mixing agent. We tossed around the idea of Chlorine
Bleach but decided against it. ( probably toxic )
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
                                                                          
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations for one-man brake bleeding tools?
Date: 11 Nov 1992 09:23:54 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

	"Anybody that can recommend a particular tool"

As far as I'm concerned, the hand-operated vacuum pump is the way to go.  I
paid $30 for mine (Mity-Vac) at a local parts store and it came with the
collection jar, a length of clear tubing, and a set of adapters that pop onto
the nipple.  Makes bleeding a snap.  You can do the whole operation without
touching the brake pedal, without spilling a drop of brake fluid, and without
getting any air back into the system.  The vacuum pump itself is an invaluable
diagnostic tool.  It's worth buying even if you don't plan to use it on brakes.
You can use it to test MAP sensors, Thermacs, EECS, EGR valves, and more.
Makes a perfect Christmas gift.  The Mity-Vac is all plastic and looks pretty
cheesy, but I haven't had any problems with it - it really sucks, so to speak.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Add new Horn/Toyota truck
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 17:36:27 GMT

In article <lfu2kbINNlpn@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, keith@badseed.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith) writes:
> 
> Hey Folks,
> 
> I've been getting really fed up with the horn in my truck which makes the
> standard(please, you're anoying me) sound.  So, I decided to replace it with
> a non-obnoxious but louder horn.  So I take out the old one, and just to test
> it out I put a piece of wire in each of the plugs for the old horn and attatch
> them to the new horn(temp test). I hit the horn and everything sounds ok.  So,
> I go about wiring the thing in, and when I hook up the final wire, it gives a
> spark and a little pop. I blew the fuse.  So, I replaced the fuse and tried
> again.  Blew it again. So, not remembering much from that one class in EE 
> from colledge, I gave up.   Could someone help me out here.  How should I
> wire this thing in?  
> 
One way to do this is use a horn relay.  Use the signal from your horn
button to actuate the relay.  The horn itself would be connected directly 
to the battery, or an appropriate power connection, through the proper
size fuse via the high current side of the relay.  The current needed
to turn on the relay is small, but it can connect the other two contacts
which handle a much larger amount of current, sorta like a starter
solenoid works.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech