HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: Developing your own motion picture film
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:49:23 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.162133.18471@cis.ohio-state.edu> fontana@cis.ohio-state.edu (Mark Fontana) writes:
>
>I'm thinking of experimenting in 16mm by buying outdated b/w and
>Ektachrome film at the local photo exchange and processing it myself.
>(I have no problems hand processing normal B/W and E-6 film)
>I've found a daylight tank for this purpose, which allows processing
>of up to 100' of 8, 16, and 35mm movie film.  It's basically
>two spools in an oval box with cranks protruding through the top and
>light trap openings for the chemistry.
>
I have seen a tank as you described, and I wondered how well it would work.
It was probably intended for B&W, and not for color.  Using it for color
would make me uneasy for the following reasons:  The E-6 developers need
to be at the proper temperature; do you plan to immerse the whole tank in
a water bath?  With film touching adjacent film, you wouldn't get good
chemical flow and coverage.  There would be a lot of chemical carryover
between steps, and washing would be a challenge.

Kodak's Specifications for Process ECN-2 (H-36) shows diagrams of 
processors in which the film goes up and down, up and down over rollers
in tall tanks.  In this way the film is in free contact with the solution
and the time for a certain step is determined by the velocity of the
movement of the film and the number of up and down excursions.

Using your tank for B&W should make life a lot simpler.  This would
be a good candidate to try a monobath:  This is a developer and fixer
all in one - one step, then wash.  Check old books in the library for
formulas; Dignan's "150 Black-and-White Formulas" has several.
 
>Loading the spools and developing the film should go okay, but I'm not
>sure how to manage the film while drying it.  Obviously, it can't touch
>adjacent loops of film, so do I:
> 
>    1) Dry the film relatively rapidly in one pass, as it comes out of
>       the final wash/photo-flo?  Any suggests for how to do this?
>       Maybe go through a ruuber squeegee and use a very light hair dryer?
>
>    2) Hang it from the ceiling in a clean, dry room, hanging between
>       opposite walls in large loops?
>
Considering my other concerns, drying the film would not be much of a worry.

>Would anyone care to share their experiences in hand processing movie film?
>I'm wondering how hard it is to get consistent results (ie. the entire
>length of film exposed to the first developer for nearly the same length
>of time, despite the fact that for most of the time, the film is on
>the spools, wound against adjacent layers!)
>
I have processed several kinds of 35mm movie film, but they have only been
36-exp lengths.

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: schooler@apollo.hp.com (Richard Schooler)
Subject: Re: Which is first camera with TTL meter?
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:09:06 GMT
Organization: HP/Apollo Massachusetts Language Lab

  Actually, there are a couple of contenders for the title.  Those
exposed most to European cameras cite the Alpa 9d (1964 in US, but
1963 in Europe), and those exposed most to Japanese cameras claim the
Topcon RE Super (a.k.a. Super D), introduced in the US in 1963.

        -- Richard
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Myron Gochnauer <GOCH@UNB.CA>
Subject: RE: T-Max films
Organization: The University of New Brunswick
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 13:35:07 GMT

In article <30AUG92.10127537.0029@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA> Myron Gochnauer <GOCH@UNB.CA> writes:
>I seem to have missed the beginning of a discussion on T-Max films, but
>here's my 2 cents worth:
>
>I, too, think the films are touchy, but in my opinion the results are
>worth the extra care. The major problem I had is with agitation. I get
>'surge marks' on the first few frames when I use stainless steel reels.
>I switched to Paterson tanks and reels, and that solved the problem. I
>use 5 inversions on the minute and 5 'twists' on the half minute. Next,
>I always pre-soak in plain water for one minute (timed) before
>developing. Needless to say, I have to be very careful with temperatures
> For reasons I don't understand, T-Max 400 looks best with I develop
>.
>.
[the systm seems to have lost the rest of my message, so I'll pick it
up again...]

for 5.5 minutes at 68 degrees (Kodak says 7), but T-Max 100 looks best
when I use the full 8 minutes Kodak recommends.
After all the fuss and bother, I love the look of T-Max 400 for most
things, and generally don't like T-Max 100.
Another film worth looking at is Delta 400 (Ilford). It seems to be
slightly slower than T-Max 400, but not by much, and its grain is bit
more obvious. But it has a very nice, open look about it, and it is
*much* easier to process... rather like Tri-X.
Does anyone have experience with the Fuji B&W's?

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 18:01:43 GMT
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Subject: Re: Bogus Olympus Add
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Keywords: 

clcp16@ccsun.strath.ac.uk ("S.C.Russell") writes:
>In article <5360788@hplsla.hp.com>, barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn) writes:
>|> Has anyone seen the new add for the Olympus Stylus that shows a
>|> baseball player hugging a little boy? I don't think they could've
>|> been taken with the Stylus.
>
>	Does an advertisement for a camera have to be taken with
>the camera advertised?

Well, the *implication* of an advertisement for a camera which features
a scenic or people or other type of photograph is that the camera
advertised was used to take the picture.

I doubt there's any kind of *law* requiring this, but I think it's a bit
misleading (approaching fraudulent) for an advertiser, to use an extreme
example, to place a photo taken with a 4x5 camera in an advertisement
for a 110-format point-and-shoot camera.

Geoff

-- 
Geoff Allen          \ It's an art, a craft, a science and, perhaps most of
uunet!pmafire!geoff   \ all, a damnable obsession.  But a most fulfilling one.
geoff@pmafire.inel.gov \      -- Barry Sherman on photography
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Film recommendation needed
Date: 2 Sep 92 07:44:44 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1992Sep1.145133.8841@infonode.ingr.com>, john@earlj.b11.ingr.COM (John H. Earl) writes:

> I'm going to Europe in October and will be taking my 35 mm SLR with me to
> take pictures.  Although I was "into" photography about 20 years ago, I
> haven't done much of anything since.  Back then, Kodak was the only choice
> for film.  Now there seem to be many.  I'm probably thinking of something
> in the ASA 400 range (my 35 - 105 zoom lens starts a f 3.5).  I'm also not
> planning on taking a flash because I don't want the added weight.  So
> would someone please make a recommendation on what to use?  By the way, I
> plan to take prints - not slides - and will probably not try to find some
> kind of special lab for processing.

I'd use Fujicolor Super HG 400 or Fujicolor Professional NHG 400.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Re: 300 mm/f2.8 - Which is the BEST for the ELAN?
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science
	<1992Aug28.045154.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 18:34:45 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.045154.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:

>Hate to ask... but do you have the raw data for the MTF of the Canon lenses
>you could post? It would be nice to know how they actualy measured, prior to
>'phase-of-the-moon' correction Factors  ;-( Though they factors you mention
>seem reasonable for a one quality number type thhing.

Sorry, no. There were MTF-graphs in the magazine, but I don't think I
have any way of posting them.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
From: bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: large format, zone system, hat hair and other silliness
Date: 27 Aug 92 19:10:13 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Ken McFadden writes:

(after 'fessing up to being the originator of the notorious "hat hair" 
thread :-):

>I made the comment that if hats were a prerequisite
>for large format that I would probably be scared off since hats give me hat
>hair, which is the condition after which wearing a hat for an extended time
>period my hair gets mushed and everybody can tell I had been wearing a hat.
>While not fatal, I supposed it's not stylish, although I guess there's a
>tradeoff here, if the hat were just as stylish outdoors as indoors then I
>could always keep the hat on or maybe switch to a hat that is stylish indoors.

Interestingly enough, while sitting in a cafe in a rural section of the
West recently, I noted that most of the men were wearing cowboy hats.  Now
I was taught that it is most impolite to wear a hat indoors.  I've also 
noticed that many wearers of cowboy hats seem to have excellent manners 
and to behave in a manner which might almost be described as "courtly".
(At least under non-honky-tonk circumstances. :-)  From this I deduce that
there is a codacil exempting cowboy hat wearers from the norms of hat
etiquette.  

I've also noticed that wearers of baseball hats appear to wear their covers 
indoors, but have deduced from other behaviors that it is through a lack of 
concern about proper etiquette, rather than an exemption therefrom.  :-)

Possibly a cowboy hat might be a possibility for Mr. McFadden?

:-) :-) :-)

Barry

-- 


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.       | "Any fool can face a crisis - it's     | 
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com           |  this day-to-day living that wears you |
|                                   |  out." - Anton Chekhov                 |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: leung@ntmtv.UUCP (Greg Leung)
Subject: LENS for sale (Kalimar 80-200mm for Nikon)
Originator: leung@spica
Reply-To: leung@ntmtv.UUCP (Greg Leung)
Organization: Northern Telecom Inc, Mountain View, CA
Distribution: ca
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 19:36:36 GMT

For Sale: 

Kalimar 80-200mm F4.5 W/Macro for Nikon mounts. (uses 55mm filters)
Price: $80.00 ($160.00 at Beach Camera in Sept 92 Popular Photography)
Includes: one 55 mm Ultraviolet(UV) filter and a 55mm Cross Screen
filter by Hoya.  (Approximately $10 each). Plus a protective
lens cap free.  All equipment is less than two years old.

The lens is in excellent condition since I hardly use it.  I have
very very bad eye sight and since this lens is manual focus I simply
cannot use it.  I already spent another $270 for a Nikon 70-210mm
AF lens.  The picture quality of the Kalimar is comparable to
the new Nikon lens that I got except it's manual focus only.

Reply or call me at (415) 940-29090 if interested.


Greg Leung
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photograping Whales [8008s autofocus problem]
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:23:13 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Originator: asanders@sparta

| Nikon autofocus is basically decorative.

		-Philip Greenspun

This comment is just MADE for flames! Big, orange ones!

Seriously, though, I've found the AF performance of my 8008s
to be very satisfactory in situations where AF is appropriate.
I use it about 80% of the time, and the camera is relying on
ME to know when to switch to manual focus. I recently bought
a Nikon focusing magnifier for the express purpose of checking
critical focus by eye, and I generally cannot improve on the
focusing accuracy of the AF mechanism. I cannot even begin to
match the *speed* of the camera's autofocus. Sometimes I miss
my FE's split-image rangefinder. It was very accurate, if
very slow. But what a pain it was with long lenses.

The Nikon focusing magnifier (DG-2) is great. Has a rubber
eyecup, built-in diopter correction, and it's hinged to flip 
up out of the way for composing. Highly recommended.

					-Alan
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Lead-acid 2CR5 adapter for Canon? (was: Canon EOS Rebel at high altitude and Cold - Problems ??)
Date: 27 Aug 92 23:17:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Aug27.231716.8023
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug27.091750.6332@hemlock.cray.com> rdj@fir18.cray.com (Ralph Jenson) writes:
>
>JVB Designs 305/754-7862
>PO box 53-0095
>Miami, FL 33153.
>
>I have no connections with JVB except as a VERY satisfied customer. I haven't
>tried to reach him after the hurricane so...

Not to worry, Miami hardly got touched, most of the damage was quite a few
miles south of there.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: bruceb@mpd.tandem.com (Bruce Burden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: teleflash
Date: 25 Aug 92 22:39:44 GMT
Organization: Tandem Computers (MPD) Austin, TX

In article <1992Aug25.144112.24450@news2.cis.umn.edu> weiss@epx.cis.umn.edu writes:
>What is an effective, inexpensive way to implement teleflash?
>
>I am using a Vivitar 5200 flash dedicated TTL to an Olympus OM2S and will
>be using a Tokina 100-300mm f4 with this setup.  My goal is to improve
>my wildlife/nature photography.  It seems from some recent high-speed
>film work that use of reversal films over ISO 200 leads to generally
>unsatisfying images; hence the consideration of teleflash.
>
>Would anyone have experience with this? Thanks!
>

	I have the 4 stop tripod teleflash from Lepp & Associates (now
    sold through L.L. Rue, I believe) and while it does what it is
    advertised to do, I am not wild about the unit.

	For starters, it is a big wind catcher, so if it is mounted on
    the same platform as the camera, you have A LOT of camera shake to
    start with. I mounted mine on a seperate tripod to avoid this problem
    (also to reduce the likelyhood of "red-eye"). I am not really sold 
    on the construction, either. It looks to be low strength aluminum
    with epoxy and pop-rivets, without bends to add strength. While mine
    has yet to fail, I feel that I can come up with something better, 
    certainly something that can hold the unit and flash in better
    alignment.

	I have since picked up a Sunpak 622 Super Pro, but have not had
    a chance to use it on an appropriate subject. I think that it will
    be a better choice (at least until I do something with my teleflash!)
    in the meantime. Your mileage will doubtless vary, and I can not
    speak from experience about the three step unit.

	For comparisons sake, I used a Minolta 8000i, 5200i flash and
    200mm f/2.8 with the 1.4 converter.



								Bruce



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Bruce Burden
  bruceb@mpd.tandem.com
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Date: 2 Sep 1992 00:38:49 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina

In article <FRIEDMAN.92Sep1184721@nutrimat.gnu.ai.mit.edu> friedman@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Noah Friedman) writes:
>
>   The patent system directly conflicts with a free market economy; the
>patent system grants businesses a government-supported monopoly.

For a limited period.

Maybe it's too long a period, but if there isn't *some* period to
a company to have no effective competitive edge, a lot of products
would never see the light of day: likely benefits of bringing out
a new product would be distributed thinly enough that it might not
be worth tooling up to produce the new gidgies.

Think of the opportunity: a patent says that something useful is
out there, and you can either find another way to do something
similar (avoiding patent infringement), or you can license the
patent for your own business.

Perhaps your new approach will be better than the original
patentee's.

Perhaps licensing would be less expensive/quicker than doing the
research/development yourself from scratch.  (Lazy [or unlucky]
developers are encouraged, perhaps unfortunately, by this approach.)

Either way the customer may win.

Seems like a half-full/half-empty problem to me.

Charles Wheatstone got a patent on the English concertina, so there
wasn't a lot of competition for his company (but alternate concertina
approaches flourished, such as Anglo and various Duet systems), and
when his patent expired, a bunch of *experienced* makers like Crabbe,
Jeffries, and Lachenal served notice and spun off their own firms.

Wheatstone's patent didn't hurt people like Hohner who took slightly
different approaches.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: John_Maxwell@mindlink.bc.ca (John Maxwell)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Prints from XP2?
Date: 28 Aug 92 15:23:10 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

The trouble with doing XP2 prints on a colour machine is negative contrast.
First, you haven't got the control that you normally expect when printing black
and white on BW paper. Modern colourprint papers tend to be pretty contrasty.

What's weird, though, is that if you print a bunch a XP2 negs that are of
different densities, you will get different tinted prints out, because most
colour printing machines have those computerized scanners, and they try to come
up with a filtration compromise for every neg. So either the printer has to
re-do them to correct the colour variations, or Kodak, Fuji, Noritsu, and other
manufacturers of colourprinting machinery will have to build in a setting for
BW negs that keeps the filtration even regardless of the negative density.
Maybe some are better than others at this.

Or you can live with the colouring. It can be kinda neat. Sepia tones are
really easy to achieve. Just dial in more on the red and yellow end of things.

-JMax

From: bwm@hpopd.pwd.hp.com (Brian McBride)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 21:28:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Running 110v enlarger with 240v supply
Organization: Hewlett-Packard ISG-SBU-PWD, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Thanks to those who replied here or by email.

In response to Bob, the stabilizer is made by Besseler specifically for the
enlarger.  It is rated at 50 or 60Hz and I measure 110v on its output.

I have been able to contact the Besseler tech support people who were very 
helpful.  They seem to agree with most of the feedback I have received from 
the net, that the stabilizer is the likely culprit.  They suggested I measure
the voltage across the bulb and told me how to tweak the stabilizer to adjust
it to the right voltage.

This has to be done with a lamp in place as the stabilizer has to be under
load, apparently.  So once I get a lamp I will try it.  And hopefully I wont
have to come back for more ideas.  

Thanks for the help, chaps and chapesses

bwm


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: boh@fraser.sfu.ca (Changhao Boh)
Subject: Minolta X-9
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 08:59:20 GMT

Hi.  Just what kind of a camera is a Minolta X-9.  Nope, I am not talking 
about a 9xi, but an X-9. Is it Minolta's new manual focus high end or is it
an entry level.  I saw this at a local camera store but the shop keeper is too
busy to show it to me.

I've just come back to photography after a 4 years laps and I am looking for newequipment, I used to be a Pentax fan but this time I am going for a 9xi set up.
My eyes are not as good as they used to be and I need an autofocus setup.

So, friends, any advice is welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Changhao
From: vemuri@informix.com (Sudhakar Vemuri)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: olympus 330 remote
Keywords: remote battery olumpus
Date: 2 Sep 92 23:17:29 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Hi friends,

I am going to purchase Olumpus Zoom 330 ( I believe it is discontinued) from
a friend. I am getting a good deal.

I understand that the remote unit comes with a non replacable batteries and 
they last for 5 years. After the remote unit batteries run out, what can be
done ?

In general what are your experiences with that camera ?


Since I will be away till 9th Sept, I may lose your postings on the net.

Kindly reply to -------> vemuri@informix.com


Sudhakar Vemuri
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tom@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Tom Easterday)
Subject: Re: Rechargable type of lithium batteries?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 15:58:36 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.000301.23989@leland.Stanford.EDU> babyduck@leland.Stanford.EDU (Tim Chen) writes:
>Does anyone know of a rechargable replacement for the lithium batter for such
>cameras as the Canon EOS or the Nikon 6006?  I'm not too keen on buying tons
>of lithium batteries even though they last a long time, I'm more interested
>in something that's reusuable.  Since I don't read all of the net most
>of the time can you please email your answers to me at:
>
>babyduck@medisg.stanford.edu
>
>I will post a summary of my findings. :)
>
>Thanks a bunch

There is nothing that produce the umph that Lithium batteries can for
such a small size.  They have a long shelf life too.  Currently there
is nothing that can do the job in a rechargable form. 

I'm sure someone out there is working on better batteries but.....

	Tom


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Robert Koch <Bob Koch@SAIC.Dayton.ccmail>
Subject: Re: Recommend slide labelling program?
Organization: Science Application International Corp.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 12:33:16 GMT
X-Posted-From: koch.dayton.saic.com
X-Posted-Through: sol.ctr.columbia.edu


Newsgroups: rec.photo