HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dvw@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (diane.v.wilkerson)
Subject: Baby-proofing a xstitch bib
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 20:51:04 GMT


I recently bought a cute counted cross stitch bib kit, and planned to make
the set for a friend who is an avid cross stitcher.  Now, it occurred to
me that these would be worn by a cute, but drooling, baby girl.  Does
anyone have pointers on how I can make the bibs baby-proof (water, milk,
formula, baby food, bugs, etc.)?  Is there anything that I can treat the bib 
with to make it easy to clean?  Is this just not practical, and should I just
take the cute patterns and use them on an afghan instead?

Many thanks.
-- 
Diane Wilkerson    | Sons and daughters, better open your eyes, 
AT&T Bell Labs     | Tell me what you're seeing
..!att!cbnewsh!dvw | This submission is a tired tradition
(908) 615-2704     | It's everyone's sacrifice - Christopher Robinson
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: ab5y@uvacs.cs.Virginia.EDU (Ann Bailey)
Subject: Making a counted Xstitch pattern -- need HELP
Originator: ab5y@palm.cs.Virginia.EDU
Organization: University of Virginia Computer Science Department
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:04:07 GMT

Could someone help me with the steps I need to draft a pattern for
someone's name?  I used a copier to enlarge the letters and then tried
coping onto graph paper.  Unfortunately that came out a little crooked.
Then I decided to try to trace it onto the Hardanger cloth I have and
that's not working well.  Is there an easy way to trace the pattern?  Or
is it better to just count?  The biggest problem is the letters kind of slant
to the right.  When i was using regular 14 ct. cloth it was too far apart
to get a nice crisp slant, so I switched to the 22 ct. and that's better. 
Except it's so hard to count.  Does anyone have ideas for a simpler method?

Thanks,
Ann Bailey
ab5y@virginia.edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu
Subject: Re: Pattern problem
Organization: Yale University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 11:54:07 EST

I don't know about this off-the-shoulders-without-boning business...
I'd feel a bit insecure I think :-).  But an underlining would
definitely help in giving body to the dress, and in keeping it
where it should be, in a way that lining would never do.
Satin is heavy, but it's not that stiff.
 
An important function of underlining is to provide a place other
than the fabric to attach interfacing and hems to, and to pad
seam allowances.  All of these functions would be important for
satin, where a single stitch from a hem would show from across
the room, and where seam allowances would make definite ridges.
Usual underlinings tend to be either fine cotton batiste, or
silk organza.  The idea is to have something crisp and light.
A color matching your skin is always appropriate, but matching
the fabric is fine too.
 
Vogue Pattern recently had a very good article on the whys
and hows of underlining, it might be worthwhile for you to
look it up at the public library?  (it was either this summer or
last summer).
 
Marie-Christine
mahe-marie-christine@yale.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: pmmuggli@midway.ecn.uoknor.edu  (pauline muggli)
Subject: running dye question
Originator: mdtll@uokmax.ecn.uoknor.edu
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 05:00:18 GMT
Organization: Engineering Computer Network, Univ. of Oklahoma, Norman, OK, USA


i posted this in alt.sewing last saturday.  i haven't seen any
response yet, so thought i'd try here.  the formerly
cream/natural part is now pink.  so, i guess my question has
gone to:  any way to get the cream color back and if not, how
can i set the dye?

>i have a cotton woven rug.  it has never been washed, and
>recently got water on it.  the red dye has run into the 
>natural/cream colored part.  is there anything i can to or
>should i settle for a green/pink blotched/red/black rug.

>the instructions i originally got said to wash in cold water.  i
>put the directions in a safe place so i wouldn't lose them.  so
>safe, even i can't find them.  i have been soaking it in cold
>water, but the red seems to be slowly running even more.

>any suggestions?
>thanks,

pauline

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: ljensen@ferris.cray.com (Laura Jensen)
Subject: Re: What I Unlearned about Spinning
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 19 Nov 92 13:58:13 CST

Sue Bowen writes:

>Actually, the drafting triangle is the responsibility of the right hand
>and is formed by how hard you pull on your fiber as the yarn forms. The
>left hand works almost independently, twisting the lumps and stray fibers
>into the yarn.
>If the fiber prep was done well, the drafting triangle will form of its
>own free will. Occasionally, you have to coax fibers into it by using your
>fingers to press the fiber gently toward it but, for the most part, the
>twist building in the yarn will naturally snag what you hold in your hand.

Paula Simmons discusses this in _Spinning for Softness and Speed_, she
advocates one-handed production spinning from well-prepared batts, using
the drafting hand to grasp the fibers lightly (palm up, with the second,
third, and fourth fingers) as the twist travels the strand.  Then 
the other hand can be used to pull nepps and things from the twist 
as they come along.  I haven't actually managed to do this technique 
for long, but it is helpful to get the drafting hand somewhat 
independent of the other hand.  

>Yes, treadle evenly but to spin fast, treadle FAST. 

Have any of you had ankle or foot problems with extended treadling?
Sometimes after plying for a long time (even with the high-ratio
flyer, and even doing some jogging-type stretches) my ankles hurt.  
I am treadling my Country Craftsman with both feet, overlapping the 
treadle to get a mock heel-toe motion.  Can you recommend any 
ankle stretches?
  -Laura

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: linnco@microsoft.com (Linn Compton)
Subject: Loom advice wanted
Date: 19 Nov 92 18:32:58 GMT
Organization: Microsoft
Keywords: weaving

I inherited a two-harness loom made by the Reed Loom
Company (which went out of business in the 20's, I
think). I'm an avid textile lover who knits, quilts,
sews, etc. I've always wanted a loom, but I don't know
anything about weaving. 

This is a large, floor-standing loom, about 5 feet square.
It's kind of medieval-looking, with a large roll to take up
the woven material, and a metal ratchet wheel to keep
things from winding backwards (I hope you know what I mean).

This loom was last used by a group of church women who
were weaving rag rugs (I also got about 9 boxes of fabric
strips). The loom has been sitting in my aunt's bedroom
unused for years. Do I need to do any kind of restoration
on it before it is usable? For example, do I need to oil
the wood? Polish up the (are they called heddles?) metal 
wires? 

Are looms specific to a certain kind of weaving? What I'm 
wondering is: if this loom is a rag rug loom, does that 
mean that I can only weave the more coarse kinds of things
on it? Or does it just depend strictly on the type of
material you use on it? Any and all advice on getting 
started is gratefully appreciated.


Linn Compton    Microsoft
From: rudy@chukran.austin.ibm.com (Rudy Chukran)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: spinning wheels
Date: 17 Nov 92 00:24:55 GMT
Reply-To: chukran@austin.vnet.ibm.com(Rudy Chukran)
Organization: IBM Advanced Workstation Division

Can any of you spinners out there give me any info on deciding between
used spinning wheels vs. new wheels vs. wheel kits. It is the gift
giving season, and my spouse has been so strongly hinting about wheels that
I picked up her issue of SpinOff last night. I saw a few ads, but no
prices. Any opinions on these questions?

What would be a good beginners wheel?

Any ballpark prices to get my expectations centered?

How easy is it to find used wheels?  What sort of price differential
should I expect from new?

Anybody built any kits?  I built a loom from plans for last Christmas, and
I have looked at wheel plans in various books.  Im not sure my woodworking
skills are up to the task.

Where to obtain said kits? I didnt see any ads specifically mentioning kits.


-- 
*********************************************************************
Rudy Chukran                |       EMAIL:            
IBM AIX Technical Consulting| RSCS: CHUKRAN at AUSTIN 
11400 Burnet Rd.            | AWDnet:rudy@chukran.austin.ibm.com    
Internal ZIP 2830           | internet: chukran@austin.vnet.ibm.com
Austin, Texas 78758         |
*********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: Marina.Salume@corp.sun.com (Marina Salume)
Subject: California Crafts Museum
Organization: Cornell University, Ithaca NY
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 22:35:33 GMT

Nov. 16, 1992-Jan 10, 1993, there will be a special exhibition at
the California Crafts Museum in Ghiradelli Square,
San Francisco. It is a joint show by many different
guilds of contemporary crafts, including:

potters, ceramics, baskets, crochet, knitting, studio art,
woodturning, blacksmiths, handweaving, lace, metal arts, quilting,
woodworking and tapestry weaving. 

My quilt group, the San Francisco Quilters Guild, will have
volunteers there at the museum on Dec 3 and 6, from 11-6.
They'll be demonstrating quilting and selling tickets for
our opportunity quilts (ten different small quilts to choose from 
this year, and the drawing is Dec 8. I can send info on these
quilts to anyone who is interested).

There's no admission fee. Some guilds will be selling craft items
also. For more information you can call the museum at 415-771-1919.
Museum hours are 11-6 daily and the address is: 900 North Point,
SF CA 94109.

--marina
From: randy_f@verifone.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Punching
Date: 18 Nov 92 14:01:35 -1000
Organization: VeriFone Inc., Honolulu HI

In article <1992Nov11.021711.22442@rose.com>, paul.ribeiro@rose.com (paul ribeiro) writes:
> 
> Date Entered: 11-10-92 21:11
> I was wondering if anyone out there has done any "Perfect Punch"
> projects?  I want to make a clock gift for someone and I want   to
> punch the design on.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> /Rochelle
> ---
date entered: 11-18-92 16:00
I enjoy doing punch embroidery.  If you are a beginner, you might like the
"View and Do" Videos.  They are made by Plaid Enterprises in Norcross, GA --
sorry I don't have a full address or phone number.  (I rented them from my
local crafts store).

From my personal experience, the thing that helped me the most was when I
finally learned toput my fabric into the hoop -backwards- and punched into
fabric on the inside of the hoop (instead of punching the fabric from the 
outside or top like you do with regular embroidery).  This makes it so much
easier to keep the fabric in the hoop when you punch - and the "right side"
of the finished product is on the out side of the hoop.  Punch embroidery
goes pretty fast for me and you don't have to be picky about rows or stitches-
it is OK to punch over stitches that are already there and it still looks
great.

Randy  

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: aviva@ultra.com (Aviva Garrett)
Subject: Re: Fair Isle pattern (gauge)
Keywords: now it's too tight
Reply-To: aviva@ultra.com (Aviva Garrett)
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 19:21:44 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.130141.13490@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> sjf@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (susan.j.flaster) writes:
>This brought me to the chest of the garment where the
>*real* Fair Isle pattern started.  I checked my books
>and carefully changed colors and carried the yarn along
>the back of the work.  When I was halfway into the pattern,
>I stopped and carefully assessed my work.  Imagine my
>disappointment to find it was TOO TIGHT.  

Susan,

What you need to do is make sure that when you carry the yarn
behind what you're knitting, you carry it VERY LOOSELY, much
looser than you might imagine. Elizabeth Zimmerman's advise is
to pull the stitches you just knit (the ones in the other color)
away from the end of the needle. This increases the length of
yarn that is behind the stitches.

..Aviva

-- 
Aviva Garrett
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
aviva@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!aviva  (408) 922-0100 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: cfeem@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Eleanor Midkiff)
Subject: Re: Summary : Chicago Stores
Summary: Thanks 
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 19:18:20 GMT
Expires: ?
Organization: Eastern Illinois University
Keywords: Chicago stores
Followup-To: rec.crafts.textiles

Oh, thank you, thank you, thank you.  I'm printing up the whole list and
putting it in my file for Midwest Psych Association, which meets at the
Palmer House the first weekend in May every year.  I haven't found any
good places to shop other than the big department stores (not that that's
no fun ;-) ), so I'm really looking forward to my next trip.

Eleanor


-- 
Eleanor Midkiff
(cfeem@eiu.edu)
From: charleen@net.bio.net (Charleen Bunjiovianna)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: advice: dressmaker's dummy
Date: 20 Nov 92 02:14:21 GMT
Organization: BIOSCI International Newsgroups for Biology

In article <carolyn.721423779@bucket> carolyn@bucket.rain.com (Carolyn Peterson) writes:
> 
>A dress form would not be useful for me.  Patterns are designed to
>fit a body shaped like a dress form.  

Maybe I'm shaped like my dress form.  I've found mine to be very useful.
I bought it secondhand for $60 or $70; it's one of the Dritz models that
you see in fabric stores for $135.

I could never figure out why my dresses fit fine in front but loosely
in back until I put one on the dress form.  The back waist length is
simply too long, and on the dress form, I can see it.  I'd need eyes
in the back of my head to see it in the mirror. :-)

I use it also to gauge how a dress is coming along.  I design most
of my own square dance dresses, so I can slip a petticoat on the dress
form, arrange the dress over that, and see if I need to modify the
design or what.

Charleen

--
To subscribe to the Vintage Clothing and Costume Jewelry Mailing List:
   send mail to vintage-request@presto.ig.com
From: sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: What I Unlearned about Spinning
Date: 19 Nov 92 10:04:58 -0500
Organization: George Mason University, Fairfax, VA.


This past Monday, I took a spinning tutorial with my friend and local
spinning instructor, Karl. His approach is to teach production spinning and
leave historical accuracy to the authenticity police. He also noted that
his approach is also somewhat historically accurate because people back then
*HAD* to spin for production.

The upshot was that he exploded several myths about spinning for me and I
thought I should share them.

Myth 1 - The two hands work together to produce a drafting triangle.

Actually, the drafting triangle is the responsibility of the right hand
and is formed by how hard you pull on your fiber as the yarn forms. The
left hand works almost independently, twisting the lumps and stray fibers
into the yarn.

Myth 2 - Treadle slowly and evenly.

Yes, treadle evenly but to spin fast, treadle FAST. Karl was treadling so
fast that the drive band (I think it was the drive band) was buzzing and
the spokes of the wheel were a blur.

Myth 3 - The drafting triangle needs help from the right hand being formed.

If the fiber prep was done well, the drafting triangle will form of it's
own free will. Occasionally, you have to coax fibers into it by using your
fingers to press the fiber gently toward it but, for the most part, the
twist building in the yarn will naturally snag what you hold in your hand.

Myth 4 - Too much twist is bad.

Karl memtioned that by the time you wash the yarn to set the twist, ply
the yarn, then knit or weave the yarn, over-twist is a disappearing issue.
Ideally, the yarn should leap into two-ply twists when you move your hand
with the fiber toward the flyer.

(Note: A drafting triangle is a triangle of fiber formed between the
unspun fiber and the spun yarn.)

IMHO, I now can spin ~ 50% faster and even produce thinner yarn, 
which is important for feeding a knitting machine. But I am also working
on an ancient Ashford with very low ratios.

Happy Spinning,

Sue
sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu
From: dina@apple.com (Jennifer Needham)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: spinning wheels
Date: 21 Nov 92 00:08:31 GMT
Followup-To: rec.crafts.textiles
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc.

In article <1992Nov17.002455.21855@awdprime.austin.ibm.com>,
rudy@chukran.austin.ibm.com (Rudy Chukran) wrote:
> 
> Can any of you spinners out there give me any info on deciding between
> used spinning wheels vs. new wheels vs. wheel kits. 
> 
> Anybody built any kits?  

Randy,
I purchased my first (and only) spinning wheel as a kit.  It is an Ashford
Traveler.  It was very easy to put together.  It took several days to
stain, sand and dry but the actual assembly was very simple.  I purchased
mine through one of the local spinning/weaving shops.  IUm sure you could,
too.  Or, just call one of the dealers listed in Spin-off.  They almost
always carry the kits.

Jennifer
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rusty@nssdc.gsfc.nasa.gov (Kenneth Hall)
Subject: Re: (F) pine plants
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA - Goddard Space Flight Center
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 14:54:00 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.195652.15970@vax5.cit.cornell.edu>, mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes...
>In article <Nov.14.23.57.01.1992.17236@yoko.rutgers.edu>,
>ouyang@yoko.rutgers.edu (Ming Ouyang) writes: 
>> 
>> I saw a plant called "pine" in a mall petshop. What is its scientific
>> name? And requirements? Do I need to say this? It looks like pine
>> tree leaves but it lives in water. :-)
>Could it be you are talking about hornwort?  If is doesn't have roots (it
>usually floats) and branches in all kinds of directions, that's probably what
>it is.
>John Opsomer

John,

     I saw the same type of "plant" last night at a fish store in my 
area.  Like the other netters have said this stuff had turned brown 
and look gross.  These cuttings almost look like a type of pine that I 
have seen growing in the lower Florida area consisting of compressed 
needles on short branches.  Though I am not sure what it is really I 
have notice a tendancy in alot of the local fish store to start 
selling tropical plants as aquarium plants.  This for anybody would be 
a big mistake as pointed out by a guy who helped on my tank, since 
they will only live for about 3 months before they start to rot in the 
tank.

Rusty
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: (F) African cichlid questions
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 21:06:32 GMT

I have a couple questions I've been meaning to ask.

I currently have 4 Hap. Obliquedens (1 male, 3 females) and 2 Hap
'Pearly' calvus (sex ??) in a 55g with w/d filter.

My first question:  How do you sex juvenile calvus?  They are just over
1 inch long now.  The pet shop guy said the only way he knows to tell
is that the male's dorsal fin is more pointy.  Well, I'm not so sure.
He also said the males are aggressive and the females of this species are
quit docile.  Any opinions anyone?  Anyway, one of mine is quite
aggressive but only towards the other calvus (of coarse the male oblique
is over twice his size).

Next question:  The female Oblique's (especially two in particular) are
really going the rounds with each other.  They sit and fight until the male
comes and starts chasing one or the other around (they don't seem too
interested yet, they're only 1" long).  Is this going to go on forever, or
will they eventually decide who's boss and leave it at that?  Should I get
rid of one of the two?

One more question:  How much salt should I add to my water for species
from lakes Tanganikya and Victoria?  Also, I've got my water at about 78
degrees F.  Is this ok?  Thanks.



-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
livings%unislc.uunet.uu.net    |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
From: marka@SSD.CSD.HARRIS.COM (Mark Ashley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Sweaty tanks
Date: 16 Nov 1992 20:34:20 GMT
Organization: Harris Computers Systems Division, Fort Lauderdale,FL
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com

I'm planning on a chiller for my tank and by coinci-dink 
one of the current fish magazines has an article on chillers. 
It wasn't FAMA. 

Anyway it warns about having a cold tank in a warm room.
It said that the outside of the tank will start "sweating"
if the tank is made of thin glass or a less than 3/8-inch thick
acrylic. Does anybody have this problem ?
Should I get a thick-walled acrylic tank ?

It also suggests putting the chiller outside the cabinet.
If my cabinet has fans for ventilation, would it be ok
to put it in the cabinet then ? Chillers are not exactly
works of art that I want exposed. 8-)

I see the brand "Aquanetics" a lot. Is this the best one
around for the money ? Is it reliable ? Does it work 
as it is rated to be (i.e. pull down temperature vs. gallons)
Is the temperature setting mechanism accurate and
reliable ? Do I need the electronic controller (I hope not) ? 

The "Aquanetics" I saw had female threaded pipes for I/O .
What hose and male pipe can I use for the cooled water ?
And where can I get this male pipe ?

I'm planning to put the chiller like so: from the sump pump,
to an Ocean Clear canister (chemical) to the chiller and
the return hose to the main tank. There should be no 
problem with this setup, right ? I'm also running out
of horizontal space so I'll set these up vertically.
e.g. the sump is below the main tank, the pump protrudes
from the side, above that is the canister and above that
is the chiller. Any problems with this ?

Should I put foam on the sides of the tank for insulation ?
How much power does a 1/4, 1/5, 1/6 HP chiller suck up ?
Should I expect a big jump on my power bill ? Are these
things noisy ? Do they require regular maintenance like
oiling ?

Any other tips is welcome. e-mail is fine. Thanks.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ashley                        |DISCLAIMER: The opinions expressed
marka@gcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com      |here are my own; they do not
..!uunet!gcx1!marka               |reflect the opinion or policies
                                   |of Harris Corporation.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:25:38 GMT
Subject: Information about lights&a012c023Y
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
From: cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria,fido.aquarium
Subject: [M] Univalve mollusc in marine tank
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 00:07:22 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

I just noticed my 30 gallon marine tank has evolved a couple univalve molluscs
that are now on the glass.  They must have come in on a piece of live rock
but I have never seen them before.  The newest chunk of living rock is about
2 months old.

The are about 1 cm (.5") long, oval at the base and very peaked.  The colour
is a mottled red-brown and white spotted pattern.  They seem to be eating the 
algae at the back of the tank on the tank wall.

Any ideas what they may be?

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: chlorine/amine removers
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:02:19 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

I have quit using products that remove both amonia and chlorine.  My thinking
is that in an established (read cycled and healthy) tank the addition of
chemicals that remove the amonia may upset the bio filter which was counting
on using that amonia as food. 

Just MHO.

Howard
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria