HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Date: 29 Sep 92 15:24:02 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University

>My manual states that the AC runs for defrosting when the outside temperature
>is above 2 degrees Celcius.  However it doesn't say why, which is the essence
>of my original question.
>-- 
>Fred Fierling    fff@microplex.com      Tel: 604 875-1461   Fax: 604 875-9029
>Microplex Systems Ltd   265 East 1st Avenue   Vancouver, BC  V5T 1A7,  Canada

Your original analysis was correct: it dehumidifies the defrosting
air, a very reasonable and proper assumption when the temperature is
above 2C?, 45F?, 51F? these being the three stated temps I have seen.

It is also well known, as others have been saying.

-andy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jn3@maestro.bellcore.com (Jack Nasielski)
Subject: INFO ON VW CORRADO G60
Organization: Bellcore (Red Bank, NJ)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 12:48:38 GMT


Dear Corrado G60 owners:

I am thinking about buying a 1990 Corrado and would like to get some
advice.  How do you like your car?  Is there anything I should look
out for?  What are the problem areas?  Would you buy another one (the
G60 that is)?  I went to the dealer and drove the new VR6 SLC model.
It was sweet, but too pricey for me.

Thanks very much for your help.  Please e-mail or post.

Jack

jn3@rigel.cc.bellcore.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Removing Instrument Cluster, '84 Rabbit
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:00:27 GMT

In article <5299@sumax.seattleu.edu>, atosswil@sumax.seattleu.edu (Andy Tosswill) writes:
|> Folks,
|> 	Well, my odometer has finally stopped working altogether and I need to
|> fix/replace it. I read the Bentley manual on removing the instrument cluster
|> and it seems straightforward. However, upon actually trying it, I ran into some
|> problems.
|> 
|> 	Specifically, the cluster seems too large in the vertical dimension to
|> come out of the dash easily, and the assorted wires and cables attached to the
|> back don't make matters any easier.
|> 
|> 	Does anyone out there have any experience or helpful hints on removing
|> the instrument cluster?

No, it isn't easy but it's a lot easier than the A1 Rabbits!

The cable should come straight out with one connector.
The hardest part is unscrewing the speedo cable.
Try taking the lower dash covers off and put your hand
up from the bottom.   Also I just remove the steering wheel
before working on the cluster.  It makes it a whole lot
easier, but be sure your sterring wheel and shaft are marked
so you can get them back on the same.  Otherwise your wheel
will be cocked when you drive straight.

Reinstalling is harder because you have to be sure the square
drive on the speedo matches up with the cluster.  Otherwise the
cable will not seat fully or the speedo nut is hard to start.
Also, be careful to align the wiring connector before trying 
to insert - it's polarized.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Tires
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 20:19:23 GMT

In article <97181@bu.edu>, nicos@cs.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos) writes:
|> 
|> There has been some discussion on tires in r.a.vw so here goes mine:
|> 
|> 
|> Most people use BFG Comp T/A R1 or Yoko A008 for autocrossing, racing etc.
|> I will need to by such a "sticky" tire sometime next spring. My question
|> is, is there only one tire that is called Comp T/A R1 and one tire
|> that is called Yiko A008, or are these a series of tires? Some people
|> have discussed differences in compounds etc. Please help...

There are several compounds, but generally you will not be able to buy anything
except the latest (or maybe so of the prior year).  Both Yoko and BFG tend to
keep moving with the latest compound that wins.  Right now, Yokohama appears
to have the best win record -- last year it was BFG.  BFG Comp T/A R1 is the
model with some number for compound.  I have more experience with Yokohama.

They started with A008R, then A008RTU, A008RS, and now A008RS2.  I have been
running the A008RS' for about 2 years and they are reasonably good.  One thing
to remember, if the suspension and your driving technique is not perfected the
maximum potential of the tires is reduced.  Even sticky rubber can be 
over-stressed.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: Re: I NEED 16v or VR6 ENGINE
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: dal
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 11:56:37 GMT

In <5440@airs.com> andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans) writes:

>em3j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Eric Meyhofer) writes:

>>I'm very interested in purchasing an engine for my A1 Scirocco. I want
>>only a 16v from a scirocco, for it is the only 16v engine that will fit
>>the A1, and any VR6 will do.  If anyone has one that they are willing to
>>part with or know someone that will do the same I appreciate your
>>effort.  

>Are you sure that the VR6 will fit under the hood of the Scirocco?
>European Car ran an article a few months back on a Scirocco which had
>received a G60 transplant, and it required some amount of shoehorning.
>I remember specifically that the AC compressor had to be left off for
>lack of room.  Locating the intercooler was a bit tricky too.

>Given that the Corrado needed a hood revision (that unsightly bulge,
>the only deficit of the VR6 Corrado IMHO) in order to fit the VR6, I
>don't see how the Scirocco could accomodate the VR6's taller block
>when the G60 barely fit at all.  Admittedly, this is conjecture, and
>"where there's a will, there's a way"...
>-- 
>Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA

Also I was talking with a guy about putting a vr6 in a A2 GTI and he said 
that is not a good idea unless you have traction control. He said without it 
the wheels would spin too much and you would have too much torque steering.
I belive that, since when I go out to pull someone in second gear on a 
twisty road, I can feel the car pulling in whichever way my wheels are turned.
(I always floor it :) )
But if you can handle that ..........

ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: b645zjo@utarlg.uta.edu (Rick Homard)
Subject: Another VW horror story.
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: The University of Texas at Arlington
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 03:36:00 GMT


Let's see....some time ago (about 14 years) I was rebuilding my
VW engine and had already slapped the case together and had the
heads on ready to put the generator stand on when I dropped a nut
into the case through the opening where the stand goes.  I picked
up the case and shook it but nothing dropped out of the oil strainer
opening.  I turned the case upside down and shook but nothing.  I
couldn't even hear the nut rattling in the case.  The only thing
left was to dismantle everything and split the case.  As I 
removed the oil pump cover and the pump the nut was sitting right
next to the cam gear.  Luckly I didn't have to split the case again.
===============
Another horror story:
We have all experienced the gas pedal cable breaking.  One of my
many experiences with this was when I was 35 miles away from home
at 3 A.M.   The only thing around was highway and nothing else.
I adjusted the idle adjust as far as it would go and drove home
at the blazing speed of 20 MPH.
================
Another story (I have plenty):
Twenty miles from home and in a not-so-nice part of town with a 
date and the oil light comes on.  No stores are open and I know 
that the light is on because of low oil (I never did fix the oil 
leak around the valve covers).  I continue to drive hoping that 
the STP oil treatment stuff saves most of the engine from frying.
After I get out of the "rough neighborhood" I stop the car and call
my Dad for a 'pull' home.  Most of the engine was gone but I learned
not to put off fixing an oil leak.
===============
Last story:
My sister bought a Super Beetle once and had the engine rebuilt.  The
engine had a 6 month/6000 mile warranty.  After 7 months the engine
self-destructed.  The crankshaft broke in 3 pieces, the camshaft broke
in several, a rod snapped and tore the case up on the inside.  About
the only thing left which appeared in good shape were the heads.  I 
took them down to get the valves lapped and the mechanic said that 
they had several cracks and were no good.  My sister was so mad that
she sold me the car for $200.  I built-up an engine for it and drove
it for 5 years and sold it for $1000.  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: carl@neocad.com (Carl Stern)
Subject: Audi questions
Organization: NeoCAD, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 00:02:58 GMT


     What type of power upgrades are available for the 5 cylinder Audi engines?
Are there any Stage I, Stage II type kits?  For instance, what is available 
for upgrading the 4000 quattro 110hp engine into a turbo quattro, or a 20v
engine, or combinations thereof.  The S4 is putting out 227hp now in 20v
turbo form.  Are all the 5 cyl blocks the same, with just different bores
and strokes?  What parts are swappable, and what are some costs, aftermarket
suppliers, etc.  What about sway bars and shocks too?
     What I am after is turbo quattro perfromance in the 4000 style sedan.  
I feel that the 4000 is the optimum size/configuration body style.  Though
is is not my favorite in style and looks.  I like the 4 door sedan over the 
coupe for utility, and the 5000 is a little too large and heavy while the 
80/90 is too small, especially the trunk.  Also, 4000 quattros are plentiful 
here in Colorado, with typical asking prices ranging from $3000 to $7000.
That's a nice starting price for upgrading from.  I can't get a 16V Jetta for 
that.
     How about a post of the various incarnations of the 5 cylinder with
ratings over the years?
     Interesting that while other carmakers, ex. Honda, Volvo, are now
embracing 5 cyls, Audi is phasing it out.  
     

-- 
   Carl Stern
   NeoCAD                     carl@neocad.com
   2585 Central Ave.        
   Boulder, CO 80301          Phone: (303) 442-9121
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Microplex Systems Ltd.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:55:46 GMT

In article <1992Sep25.170155.29118@ee.rochester.edu> Mark Sirota <msirota@socrates.ee.rochester.edu> writes:
>In article <1992Sep25.051925.12909@microplex.com> fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling) writes:
>> Have you noticed that switching to defrost causes the air conditioner
>> compressor to kick in?  I suspect it cools (and dehumidifies) the air
>> then heats it up before it gets to the windshield.  Anyone know for sure?
>
>Yes, this has been true of all the A2 cars (since 1985).  The AC kicks in on
>defrost, supposedly only when the temperature is above 51 degrees
>Fahrenheit.  Seems to me it happens at lower temperatures, too.  It's all in
>the owner's manual, perhaps you'd like to read it sometime.

My manual states that the AC runs for defrosting when the outside temperature
is above 2 degrees Celcius.  However it doesn't say why, which is the essence
of my original question.
-- 
Fred Fierling    fff@microplex.com      Tel: 604 875-1461   Fax: 604 875-9029
Microplex Systems Ltd   265 East 1st Avenue   Vancouver, BC  V5T 1A7,  Canada
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kokerj@jec322.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 16:16:44 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.133250.28820@erenj.com> bdboyle@erenj.com (Bryan D. Boyle) writes:
>In article <t!kzahp@rpi.edu> kokerj@jec308.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak) writes:
>>
>>The air  compressor runs to condense moisture out of the air, as was  mentioned
>>by another poster. Presumably at 2C ~ 36F, there is not a lot of moisture in
>>the air.
>
>But there is a lot of hot air in the passenger compartment...:-) :-)

Hot? Possibly. Humid? Not unless your heater core is bad, or your not alone 
and in the back seat. I imagine the air wouldn't be hot from the heater in
that instance. 8-) 

>-Bryan D. Boyle     |Opinions are mine...not Exxon's...
>-Senior Engineer    |bdboyle@erenj.com
>

--Jim

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Removing Instrument Cluster, '84 Rabbit
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:14:14 GMT

In article <5299@sumax.seattleu.edu> atosswil@sumax.seattleu.edu (Andy Tosswill) writes:
>Folks,
>	Well, my odometer has finally stopped working altogether and I need to
>fix/replace it. I read the Bentley manual on removing the instrument cluster
>and it seems straightforward. However, upon actually trying it, I ran into some
>problems.
>
>	Specifically, the cluster seems too large in the vertical dimension to
>come out of the dash easily, and the assorted wires and cables attached to the
>back don't make matters any easier.
>
>	Does anyone out there have any experience or helpful hints on removing
>the instrument cluster?
>
>-- Andy
>

You have to remove the speedo cable first.  Access it from underneath the
dash after removing the trim panel.  It's not real easy but it's possible.
The wiring harness is very easy to remove once the cluster is mostly out.

	- Dan
Subject: Neuspeed suspension upgrade
Organization: University of Maine System
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From:    michael@maine.maine.edu (Michael Johnson)
To:      NETNEWS@MAINE
Date:    Tue, 06 Oct 92 17:55:45 EDT

As per the request of a fellow netter, here is a recounting of the work and
cost involved in upgrading the suspension of my '88 Fox sedan with Neuspeed
and Bilstein parts.

I replaced the stock springs with a set of Neuspeed lowering springs, and the
stock shocks with Bilstein shocks. I replaced the front anti-sway bar, also
known as a stabilizer bar, with the new Neuspeed unit for the Fox, and put
on their new rear anti-sway bar for the Fox as well.

I bought the springs and the anti-sway bars from Plain Wrap Performance rather
than from APS directly, because their price was better. I bought the shocks
from APS, since their price is as good as anyone I've checked, and I prefer
to buy from them if money is not a problem.

The springs were $160. The shocks were $350. The anti-sway bars were $320.
I installed the anti-sway bars myself, and I had the springs and shocks
installed at Meineke for $170, which was quite reasonable compared to other
places around here. Even so, I could have done it cheaper myself by buying
the tools. There are only two tools one would have to buy, namely the tool
for torquing the strut top nut, and a reinforced puller for removing the
tie-rod ends from the strut arms. The rear shocks need no special tools, and
spring compressors can often be rented. The Bilstein struts came with a tool
for removing and installing the slotted nut.

The car is completely different with the new equipment. It used to roll
badly in corners, and would squat on acceleration and dive on braking. Not
anymore. It is practically like driving a go-cart, it stays so flat. With
the progressive Neuspeed springs, slight road imperfections are not a problem,
but one must take speed bumps slow if one does not want to lose one's fillings.

A word of warning: I have a Techtonics exhaust system on my Fox, and there is
a problem with clearance between the exhaust and the rear sway bar. I called
up APS about this and they suggest wiring a piece of heater hose around the
sway bar to protect it. I will be doing that this weekend, which should do
the job nicely.

Michael Johnson, VM Systems Group                     michael@maine.maine.edu
"I will choose the path that's clear. I will choose Free Will." -- Neil Peart
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Date: 4 Oct 92 15:56:34 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Oct2.000258.5830@neocad.com>, carl@neocad.com (Carl Stern) writes:
>      What type of power upgrades are available for the 5 cylinder Audi engines?
> Are there any Stage I, Stage II type kits?  For instance, what is available 
> for upgrading the 4000 quattro 110hp engine into a turbo quattro, or a 20v
> engine, or combinations thereof.  The S4 is putting out 227hp now in 20v
> turbo form.  Are all the 5 cyl blocks the same, with just different bores
> and strokes?  What parts are swappable, and what are some costs, aftermarket
> suppliers, etc.  What about sway bars and shocks too?
>      What I am after is turbo quattro perfromance in the 4000 style sedan.  
> I feel that the 4000 is the optimum size/configuration body style.  Though
> is is not my favorite in style and looks.  I like the 4 door sedan over the 
> coupe for utility, and the 5000 is a little too large and heavy while the 
> 80/90 is too small, especially the trunk.  Also, 4000 quattros are plentiful 
> here in Colorado, with typical asking prices ranging from $3000 to $7000.
> That's a nice starting price for upgrading from.  I can't get a 16V Jetta for 
> that.
>      How about a post of the various incarnations of the 5 cylinder with
> ratings over the years?
>      Interesting that while other carmakers, ex. Honda, Volvo, are now
> embracing 5 cyls, Audi is phasing it out.  
>      

Carl,


       There is no quick and easy way for you.  If your car was already a turbo
you could just upgrade the ECU to get more boost pressure and a different
timing map, but when you start with a 110hp normally aspirated engine you have
to do some major work.  One way would be to build up the engine.  This can be
expensive.  Another way would be to install a turbo engine.  This is not a
matter of just puting a turbo onto your engine.  The Audi blocks are basically
the same but they are not identical.  The turbo engines have a smaller
displacement and a lower compression ratio.  The cam shaft is also different.
       Putting a turbo engine into a normal 4000 quattro is quite a problem in
itself.  The only 4000 based car that Audi makes with a turbo engine is the
turbo quattro coupe.  There are many extra parts needed to put a turbo engine
into a 4000 sedan.  These parts are made only for the TQC.  Ever try to buy
exclusive TQC parts?  They are expensive and rare.  You don't find one of these
cars in the junkyard.  For example:  the right (not left)  tierod on the 4000 
is in the way of the wastegate for the turbo.  The right tierod for a TQC must 
be used.  Just this part alone costs about $150 from Audi. 

If you want to do this, send me e-mail and I can tell you everything that has to
be done to install a turbo engine into a 4000 sedan.  You do realize that the  
rest of the drivetrain is not as strong as that of the TQC.  
                         

                                                Mike Sylvester   Umass
                                                sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
From: boubez@tastesgreat.rutgers.edu (Toufic Boubez)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Another VW horror story.
Date: 1 Oct 92 01:43:16 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

b645zjo@utarlg.uta.edu (Rick Homard) writes:


>===============
>Another horror story:
>We have all experienced the gas pedal cable breaking.  One of my
>many experiences with this was when I was 35 miles away from home
>at 3 A.M.   The only thing around was highway and nothing else.
>I adjusted the idle adjust as far as it would go and drove home
>at the blazing speed of 20 MPH.
>================

Hah! Luxury! :-) I broke a gas pedal cable on my '71 914 (that counts as a
VW story, doesn't it?) around Albany, NY, while my roommate and I were
coming back from Montreal to NJ. We were about 200 miles from home either
way on Sunday night (Monday morning) at ~1:30am on the highway. Rummaged in
the back trunk... found some coat hangers (I had some clothes in the back).
Opened up a couple of them and rigged them up with some wire to go from the
throttle linkage on my twin Webers, through the engine compartment cover,
around the back glass and into the open passenger-side windo, on a freezing
night. For the rest of the way, throught the toll booths, etc., Andy was
working the throttle while I did the clutching and shifting... Lots of fun
and pretty good time.

pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu also writes:

>=============================================================================
>Horror story #3:

>I did the carpool thing until co-op ended in August.   Last Wednesday, that
>city sent an inspector to our house to put stickers on this bug and my project
>'66 bus out back.  (not to mention my brother's project '44 Jeep and my mom's
>LISENCED car)  Seems that the Beechmont Neighborhood Association is filled
>with constipated old women who have nothing better to do than spy on their
>neighbors and bitch to city.  Yesterday, I borrowed Pete's truck and
>trailer and towed the bug across the county to a lot where it will sit
>until parts of it become a dune buggy.  SNIF SNIF SOB! 

Yup, we must live in the same neighbourhood (most probably those
constipated ladies are to be found everywhere). I had totalled my '70 914
(a heartbreak, that was in excellent shape) and had it towed to my dad's
driveway. I covered it with a tarp while I took a couple of weeks to
deliberate and see if it could get fixed somehow (I considered grafting a
front clip). Anyway, some city inspector comes around and threatens to have
it hauled away if my dad doesn't get rid of it intwo weeks. Some
neighbourhood anal retentives figured that it was hurting their property
values, I guess (it was under a tarp, and you couldn't tell that it was
wrecked. It could've been some high $$$$ Spyder, for all you could see from
the street). My dad sold it for $400 CDN before I managed to rescue it :-(

toufic
            R 2 4      Toufic Boubez
            |_|_|      boubez@cesl.rutgers.edu
            | | |      Computational Engineering Systems Lab
            1 3 5      CAIP Center, Rutgers University, NJ
 
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:5475 rec.autos.tech:13333
From: nicos@cs.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tires
Date: 1 Oct 92 00:06:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: bu.97181
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Computer Science Department, Boston University, Boston, MA, USA
Originator: nicos@csa


There has been some discussion on tires in r.a.vw so here goes mine:


Most people use BFG Comp T/A R1 or Yoko A008 for autocrossing, racing etc.
I will need to by such a "sticky" tire sometime next spring. My question
is, is there only one tire that is called Comp T/A R1 and one tire
that is called Yiko A008, or are these a series of tires? Some people
have discussed differences in compounds etc. Please help...



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Nicos Kontopoulos                             Voice: (617) 787-1780
   INTERnet: nicos@cs.bu.edu                      This space for rent.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------