HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pieter@prpa.philips.com (Pieter van der Meulen)
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD AND Re: Irritated at software aspects of Photo-CD
Organization: Philips Research Palo Alto
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 21:32:39 GMT

ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah) writes:

>Kodak wants to tie up the file formats under lock and key.  You can't
>write a program to open their files.

Up to Base resolution (768x512) it's easy to decode. I'll repeat my
previous post on how to do this:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Specs on Photo CD (Long response + hints)
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1992 21:47:05 GMT

>The Photo CD disk is formatted according to CD-XA standards
>so that you would need an XA compatible drive.  The file structure
>used in the XA format (Mode 2, Form 1) is ISO 9660.
>Kodak will be selling a toolkit to access the files and
>convert the images to 24 bit RGB, TIFF formats for example.

This last quote indeed suggests this requires you buying some proprietary
conversion software, but it is not clear (even within KODAK) whether that
also applies to the lowest resolution images. The format up to Base is plain
rasterized data, let me show you:

I mounted the demo photo_cd on the CD-ROM (hsfs format) and found the
images. Using the public domain toolset "pbmplus" I managed to decode the
first three resolution levels, although "pbmplus" has nothing specific
related to photo_cd. I could not recognize anything beyond 796 Kbytes,
because that part is indeed not simple raster format.

If you already got a photo_cd, and mounted it, you can already try
	"rawtoppm -interrow -headerskip 8192 192 64 image.pcd"
to get a recognizable 192x64 (corrupt color) index image. You still
need to scale that by 2 in the y direction (using pnmscale).

For correct color images, you do need to write your own tool which
converts the first three resolutions (YCrCb -> PPM). I just did that,
and the 768x512 size picture that I got looks very good. We have written
some more software (pnmzoom) which allows you to sharpen images and
zoom in further without introducing blocking effects (using 2D-LPF).

I have not gotten a clear answer from KODAK whether it is OK to
post my results or not. Maybe this post will change that.
Please do not mail me requests for the software. Instead, respond to
the rec.photo news-groups until we know and KODAK knows what is wants.

Pieter.


Note: I think it will only be an advantage for KODAK to make the format
up to Base public, and license the rest. Get them hooked....
______________________________________________________________________
These opinions are my own, and my company does not take responsibility
for any damages resulting form any postings.

-- 
Pieter S. van der Meulen	pieter@prpa.philips.com
Philips Research Palo Alto
4005 Miranda Avenue #175
Palo Alto, CA 94306
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: selenium wash
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:18:09 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

jjc4@po.CWRU.Edu (James J. Campanella) wrote:
> Does anyone with more experience in photography development know
> how to treat B&W prints with a selenium wash to get that beautiful
> brownish-reddish tone that I've seen in some museum quality prints?

You just dunk your prints in selenium toner, appropriately diluted, wait
till they change colour, then pull them out and wash them.  For the Kodak
stuff (not the cheapest but the easiest to find) the instructions are on
the label.  But try not to breathe the fumes or get the stuff on your skin
as it's deadly poisonous (also don't store it near films or papers, as the
fumes will fog them).

It works very well with warm-tone papers like Agfa Portriga Rapid.  The
problem is that selenium makes no discernible difference to some papers.
It will still react with the silver grains giving archival permanence, but
because they're too large, no colour change follows.

There is a correlation which I have never understood between whether a
paper uses bromide or chlorobromide emulsion and whether selenium toning
will work - anyone know why?  Since there isn't any halide left by the time
the print goes in the toner I can't see an obvious reason.


> How about this as a more general question: are there any good photo books
> on print processing that describe how to do this or similar treatments?

There are lots of old books that go into the nitty-gritty chemistry and
tell you how to formulate your own toners - try a good library.  But you
can get adequate results by following the instructions on packets.

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: scd@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (steven.c.dittmann)
Subject: Questions about 70mm film
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:24:34 GMT
Keywords: Pentax 645


I have some questions about 70mm film for the Pentax 645 camera.

1) How easy/difficult is it to obtain 70mm film (for slides or negs)?
   What kinds of 70mm film are available ?

2) How/where do you have the film processed ?  How many exposures on
   a 70mm roll ?

3) There is no such thing as "bulk-loading" my own 120 or 220
   roll film, correct ?  Can I "bulk-load" 70mm ?

4) Any other advantages/disadvantages to shooting 70mm,
   versus 120 or 220 ?  Cost per negative ?

Thanks for any info.

Steve Dittmann
scd@ixhawk.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dmatic@athena.mit.edu (Davor Matic)
Subject: Re: Photograping Whales [8008s autofocus problem]
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 19:28:17 GMT

We all start to flame when someone puts down our favourite toys, 
don't we?  :-)

Regards,
--- Davor
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
From: barnick@mesa.Kodak.COM (William M Barnick x73638)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo-CD - THE FACTS
Date: 2 Sep 92 20:52:12 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <1992Sep1.173748.28224@kodak.kodak.com> axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman) writes:
>  We can't compete with that Tampa
>weather, but Rochester has it's charm.
>
              ^^^^
              ||||
              RAINchester, it looks like Rochester, but you would have to
              blow dry it for about a month.
Sorry, Mike.  I just had to correct ya on that one.

See Ya ...
WMB

--
***  William M Barnick ** Eastman Kodak ** barnick@Kodak.COM ******************
***  Electronic Imaging Platform Center * Color Scanning Systems Lab          *
***  B/65-2 D/733 mc01804   Rochester NY   14650-1804                         *
**************************** (716) 477-3638 ***********************************
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: konkkola@jyu.fi (Markku Konkkola)
Subject: Re: Use Velvia at 32 or 40? (Was: Re: Fuji Sli
Reply-To: konkkola@jyu.fi
Organization: University of Jyvskyl, Finland
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:35:54 GMT

In article 12334@truevision.com, frank@truevision.com (Frank Loffel) writes:
> robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
> 
> [stuff deleted]
> 
> >stability than Ektachrome. I also use Fujichrome Velvia (at EI 32 or 40)
> >when I want extra color (NOT for images of people).
> 
> In what cases would you use Velvia at ISO 40? At ISO 32?
> 
> Any specific rules or just gut feeling?
> And do you shoot for projection or for reproduction?
> 
> 
> -- 
> -- Frank Loffel, Truevision, Inc., uunet!epicb!frank frank@truevision.com :-) --

If you process Fuji Velvia according to Fuji standards then you should
expose it as 50 ISO-film. But if you process it according to Kodak 
standards (as we usually do) you should expose it as 40
(or even a little less) -film.


E6-process standards are different: Fuji makes more shakes.

I use always 40 with Velvia.

Make

---
Markku K|nkk|l{   Computing Centre of Jyv{skyl{ University   Jyv{skyl{, Finland
Markku Knkkl   Computing Centre of Jyvskyl University   Jyvskyl, Finland

E-mail: konkkola@jyu.fi        phone: +358-41-603594        fax: +358-41-603611
===============================================================================

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: 300 mm/f2.8 - Which is the BEST for the ELAN?
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 19:51:54 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.082702.2463@sics.se>, pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
...
> They measured the Modulation Transfer Function with the lens focused
> at infinity. The MTF was measured at 10, 20 and 40 lines/mm.
> A weighted average was computed with the result from 10 lines/mm
> giving 57% of the average, the result from 20 lines/mm giving 29% and
> the result from 40 lines/mm giving 14%.
> This and some other biasing gives a theoretical maximum MTF of 0.9
> (MTF is normally between 0 and 1).
> 

Hate to ask... but do you have the raw data for the MTF of the Canon lenses
you could post? It would be nice to know how they actualy measured, prior to
'phase-of-the-moon' correction Factors  ;-( Though they factors you mention
seem reasonable for a one quality number type thhing.

~Paul


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: Re: Looking for Info on 21-35/3.5 zoom
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 92 05:14:12 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

From article <1992Aug31.191435.27664@awdprime.austin.ibm.com>, by djmeyer@austin.ibm.com:
> 
> Does anybody have any first-hand information on the Sigma 21-35
> wide-angle zoom.  
> 
> I'm looking for a wide-angle zoom for my EOS 620 and the Canon version
> is out of my price range.

The result is not so good, according to pictures I have seen in
Shutterbug.  But I have seen the actual lens before (at LZ Premium),
pretty big, one of the "fattest" zoom lens I have seen.  I think they
want a lot of money for it ($400+, he, he, he).
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Sigma 1.4x AF converter, good?
Date: 3 Sep 92 02:22:04 GMT

In <v1hnsnn.hchong@netcom.com> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:

>Anybody has that converter?  Good?
>Will it work with MF lens (in MF mode, of course)?
>How much? 

I believe "Practical Photography" did a test of a whole bunch of
teleconverters.  It rated much higher than most of the other
teleconverters, but it was of the lowest magnification (most were 2x).
Unfortunately, the Tamron 1.4x TC was not included in the test.

Overall it looked pretty good.  I think I saw an ad in Shutterbug that
listed the 1.4x AF TC at about $180 U.S.

ACS

-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Minolta Maxxum 7xi or Cannon EOS Elan
Date: 26 Aug 92 23:01:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Aug26.230145.1164
Distribution: usa
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Aug26.201549.25146@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> yz@broca.acc.virginia.edu writes:
>
>A better choice for a EOS camera is the EOS 10S. It has more feature than the  
>Elan, yet in most mail order stores it is only about 20 dollars more than the  
>Elan.

Not really true, they both have features that the other doesn't have, as for
the amount of features, they both have about the same.

>The 10S has a built in 5fps motor.

Which slows down to about 3-3.5fps in continuous focus mode.

>It has three widely spaced AF sensors which in my opinion is better than
>few big sensor bunched around the middle like in the 7xi.

Lets see, my 10s has 3 sensors, and my 7xi has 4. My 7xi definately has the
wider autofocus area, and about 10 times the autofocus height of my 10s.
The autofocusing area of the 7xi clearly beats the area of the 10s.

>The camera (10S) will pick the AF sensor to use or allow you to pick the
>sensor. This way you don't always have to keep the main subject in  
>the center.

Gee, so with the 7xi.

>The central AF sensor will focus on both vertical and horizontal lines.

So will the centeral focusing area of the 7xi.

>It also has a built in flash, although without red eye reduction.

Both the Elan and the 7xi have the red-eye reduction, and the Elan has quite
a few other flash features as well that the 10s doesn't.

>It doesn't have Elan's quiet belt drive but it is still quieter than most AF  
>cameras.

Its sort of quiet, but try and use it during a wedding is will sound more
thunderous. Changing the film during the wedding vows get everyone to look
your direction.

>The 10s is also easier to use than the 7xi.

How do you know that, do you own both like me?  I think that the are equally
easy to use, if anything the 7xi is a little easier, because you don't
have to spin the dial to the correct PIC mode....the 7xi does that
automatically.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: eugene@briar.lle.rochester.edu (Eugene Kowaluk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Photography in low light?
Date: 26 Aug 92 19:57:14 GMT
Organization: UofR Laboratory for Laser Energetics

fsjfz@acad3.alaska.edu writes:
> Kodak has all ready done that for us.

Nope.


> Any ... out there who regularly use this stuff at super-high speeds?

I've generated step wedges onto P3200 and extrapolated to beyond ISO 100,000.
The noise generated by the processing (using an ATL-2) interferred too much
with useful information at the toe and gave a low dynamic range above that.

I didn't bother digitizing it to see whether there was a rollover.


eugene kowaluk
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: GE.DWS@forsythe.stanford.edu (Drew W. Saunders)
Subject: Re: Film recommendation needed
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:52:53 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.145133.8841@infonode.ingr.com>,
john@earlj.b11.ingr.COM (John H. Earl) writes:
>I'm going to Europe in October and will be taking my 35 mm SLR with me to
>take pictures.  Although I was "into" photography about 20 years ago, I
>haven't done much of anything since.
>I'm probably thinking of something
>in the ASA 400 range (my 35 - 105 zoom lens starts a f 3.5).  I'm also not
>planning on taking a flash because I don't want the added weight.
>By the way, I
>plan to take prints - not slides - and will probably not try to find some
>kind of special lab for processing.

I have been quite pleased with Kodak Ektapress in both 400 and 100
speeds.  Based on your requests, I'd recommend getting a box or two
(each box has 5 36exp rolls) of the 400.  It can be pushed to 800 or
1600 according to the datasheet, although I haven't tried this
myself and can't comment.  It is a print film that doesn't need
special processing or handling, and is supposed to be quite
resistant to heat and the like.  At the local camera store it is
cheaper than Gold 400 too.  An film to throw in the camera when you
aren't sure of what you'll be shooting that day, such as in
vacations, or press photography (the intended audience, as the name
suggests).

Drew
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Here is some info on new Sigma lenses:
From: glporter@zeus.calpoly.edu (Glen Porter)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1992 16:37:27 GMT
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo

In article <la4pg3INN26a@almaak.usc.edu> ajayshah@almaak.usc.edu (Ajay Shah) writes:
>I just got off the phone with Sigma (516-585-1144).
>
>70-210 AF
>---------
>
>They used to have two lenses here: a UC and a APO.  The UC is cheap
>and considered a bad lens.  The APO has been discontinued.
>
Who told you that the UC lenses are "considered bad lenses"???
Popular Photography and most of the Industry disagree with you on that.

There are a few UC lenses that were considered only as good quality, and one 
lense in particular that has it's problems, but to make a blanket statement
like that is irresponsible, and mis-informed.  My SIGMA Lenses have greatly 
outlasted my Nikon Lenses.  And If you want a lot of light, then plan on 
getting you checkbook hit hard.  THat is the price for a bright lense :-)

-glen


glporter@hebe.calpoly.edu                  (Glen Porter)     *
California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo     *
Network Administration - Technician        (805)756-1295     *
Electronic Engineering and Physics                           *
                                                                         / |
 <><                       o                                           /   |
                         o  o                                /-------/     |--
        <><             o  o o                             / 
<><                   o                                 /     O    \ \ 
   <><    <><       o    ______          ______        <            | | \
                  o _  _(_||___)________/___             v v v v\   | |  |
	 <><      O(_)(       o  ______/    \                    |  | | /
    <><             ^ `/------o-'            \           v v v v/  / /
               D|_|___/                                    \__________________
 
The Food Chain at work . . . . . .  Stay behind your bubbles  . .
From: gduna@snafu.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (George Duna)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Camera World
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:55:14 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Billerica, MA.
NNTP-Posting-Host: snafu.east.sun.com


Any one have any recommendations buying from Camera World of
Oregon.

tnx
geo

==================================================================
George Duna gduna@Sun.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lytle@noao.edu (Dyer Lytle  CCS)
Subject: Re: Zone system with 35mm?
Organization: National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, USA
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:46:51 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.181744.6053@pony.Ingres.COM> bbarton@Ingres.COM (Brian Barton) writes:
>Stand in the exact same kind of light as your subject and parallel to it.
>
>Using your hand, fill your viewfinder with the palm of your hand and take a 
>meter reading off of it.  _DO NOT_ shade your camera with your hand, you're
>just taking a light "reading" off the palm of your hand.
>
>Let's assume it's f.16 @ 1/250th with Tri-x. (Bright sun.)
>
>Open up your camera one-stop (to f.11 @ 1/250th) and take the picture.
>Voila!  It's the Zone System.

Hrumph!  Lets call this the Zone-6 system or the exposure meter system
or something.  This has very little to do with the Zone system.  I do
something like this myself, frequently, but I don't call it the Zone system.

I think you really have to look at more than one zone and spend some time
worrying about placing and falls, expansion or contraction, etc. to call
it the Zone system.  And then of course there is sensiometry...

>p.s. Apologies to purists who will cringe at hearing this, but I've used
>it for years and it works perfectly.

Well, I don't think you have to be a purist.  I'm certainly not any kind
of purist and I am cringing (notice this followup article).  I've used your
method and I've used the Zone system.  They are quite different.

This is not intended to be a flame.  I just wanted to make a point about
terminology.  I recommend the second volume of Ansel Adams most recent
series of three books, called "The Negative", as a place to learn about
the Zone system.

To do the Zone system with 35mm in changing light conditions, I think it
would be best to use three or four camera bodies.  This shouldn't be too
expensive if the camera bodies are something like old Nikkormats or
Canon AE-1s.  The problem with this is that you have to shoot 24 pictures
before you develop your film (or waste film) and that adds up to 72
photos in three camera bodies.  Myself, if I am being very careful and
using the Zone system, I often will only shoot 4 or 5 photographs in an
entire day.

 -Dyer            


-- 
Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136
Internet: lytle@noao.edu        SPAN: NOAO::LYTLE (NOAO=5355) 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bbarton@Ingres.COM (Brian Barton)
Subject: Re: Pushing Kodak Ectapress
Summary: 
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:42:58 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.010125.5490@mprgate.mpr.ca>, mcvey@mpr.ca (Iain McVey)   writes...
>I just got some Ektapress 100 and 400 professional and was going to try
>shooting some rolls at their pushed speeds.
> 
>Anything to watch out for?

Yeah!  Grain.  Look out for tons of it, too.  That stuff is just atrocious
in my opinion.

Sorry.  I don't have any alternative to recommend except slide film. :)

Brian


> 
>- Iain -
>-- 
>Iain McVey (mcvey@mpr.ca)    | Kodachrome, gives us those nice, bright colours,
>Software Designer            | Gives the greens of summers,
>MPR Teltech Ltd.             | Makes you think all the world's a sunny day.
>8999 Nelson Way, Burnaby, BC | - Paul Simon
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: auyeung@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (Tak [UlTech] AuYeung)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Tamron 28-200mm AF Lens: is it out? where?
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:07:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of California, Davis

I heard some rumors about a Tamron 28-200 (210?)mm AF lens that also 
has a Canon AF (EOS?) mount.  Has anyone seen this lens for sale or
tried it out?  It's about time someone makes an EOS AF lens covering
35-200mm...

Another question: is it true that 35-200mm lenses usually have more
distortion than 35-70 and 70-200 lens-combos?  I used to have a 35-200
MD mount and there's not much detectable distortion (well, I'm not a
pro anyway).

Any feedback will be appreciated, thanks in advance!

--Tak
From: dionj@netcom.com (Dion Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: San Jose, CA Photo Fair 8/29-8/30
Date: 29 Aug 92 04:18:55 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

It runs 9-4 tomorrow, AND 10-3 on Sunday.  Hey be sure to
come by Sunday - I will be bringing a big batch of wonderful
photo junk to offer at low, low prices. :-) 
View camera parts, enlarger parts, assorted lenses and whatnot.
-Dion

From article <b8dnc+h.badboy@netcom.com>, by badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller):
> There will be a Photographic Swap meet tomorrow (Saturday 8/29) and the day
> after at the Santa Clara County Fairgrounds in San Jose.
>  
> I believe it starts at 10 AM (it could be 11, look in the classified section
> of the newspaper).
>  
> This is an excellent fair, usually, it's held about 4 times a year and there's
> usually lots of sellers (maybe 150 or so on average).  All kinds of photo
> stuff.  
>  
> Admission in the past has been $5, and $3 to park across the street from the
> fairgrounds.
> 
> Take highway 101 to Tully Road, then west to the Fairgrounds.
>  
> Regards,
>  
> Jay Keller
> badboy@netcom.com
> 
> (Not connected with the fair, just a regular customer)
> 
> 
-- 
Dion L. Johnson  --  dionj@netcom.com
The material above is my personal opinion, and has no official sanction
from The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc. 
Newsgroups: rec.photo