HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 23:52:13 GMT

gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
: 
:   I had just crosscut a small length of pine, and one piece was vibrating
:   over close to the saw blade as the blade was spinning down.  I reached
:   over to move the piece and one finger hit the blade.  Probably one tooth
:   of the blade hit my finger tip.  Cut out a nice carbide-tooth shaped piece
:   of flesh, all the way to the bone.   

Did everyone notice, on the most recent edition of New Yankee Workshop, that
Norm used table saw without a guard. He did a rip cut, and reached past the
spinning blade to grab the cutoff piece.  For a person who preaches safety
at the beginning of each show, he certainly fails to practice it often enough.

Bill
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 11 Jan 1993 13:43:52 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Sprunger Brothers tools?

>Posted on 11 Jan 1993 at 13:01:29 by Smith
>
>Re: Sprunger Brothers tools?
>
>In article <WOODWORK%93010910553115@IPFWVM.BITNET> Jim Morgan
><JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>>     Does anyone out there know of or own any tools made by Sprunger
>>Brothers, Inc. of Topeka, Indiana?
>>
>>     My father-in-law recently gave me his old lathe, made by this
>>company.  He had used it pretty hard: the bearings are shot, the 4-step
>>pulley is warped, and I think the headstock spindle is out of true.
>>This morning, I made some calls and ended up having a very nice chat
>>with a Mr. William Davis ("81 going on 82, but still working two days
>>a week"), who had been the general manager of the company since its
>>inception in  1946.  According to Mr. Davis, Sprunger Brothers made
>>several models of table saws, band saws, jig saws, belt sanders, and
>>lathes.  He has promised to send me a parts list for my lathe, as well
>>as any old catalogs he can find.  Apparently, although the company has
>>been sold (to a concern called Elkhart Cases), parts are still
>>stocked.  He thought that a complete replacement headstock would run
>>about $125.  Given the cost of a new lathe of comparable quality, this
>>sounds good to me.
>>
>>Jim Morgan
>>Brown University
>
>I'm a little confused by this.  Why would you want to replace the
>complete headstock if all you need to replace is the shaft, pulley,
>and bearings (unless it's cheaper that way)?  Replacing the shaft,
>pulley, and bearings should be trivial, assuming the cast iron of the
>headstock is sound.  In fact, it would be about the same effort as
>changing the belt, I would think.  At least, that's the case on my
>lathe.
>
>Barry

I don't know that I will replace the entire headstock - this just happened
to be the one price Mr. Davis quoted me.  When I get the price list, I'll
see what combinations of parts are available.  BTW, the lathe is a hybrid -
the bed is cast iron, but the headstock casting is aluminum.

Jim Morgan
From: daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Grizzly jointer pickup
Date: 8 Jan 1993 16:43:10 GMT
Organization: University of B.C. Pulp & Paper Centre
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: redwood.ppc.ubc.ca

In article <WOODWORK%93010714033740@IPFWVM.BITNET>,         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET> writes:
|> Two months to the day after ordering, my Grizzly 6" jointer has arrived at
|> the local terminal, where the dispatcher has almost conviced me its easier
|> to pick it up than to arrange to meet the truck at home.
|> 
|> Grizzly jointer owners: am I making a big mistake? He says two boxes, total
|> weight 240 pounds. Doesn't *sound* too bad. BTW, I've got a 4-door sedan.
|> 
|> - Bill Alexander

I bought my jointer from Busy Bee in Vancouver BC and it is essentially the same
as the one sold by Grizzly. I picked it up at their store and brought it home in my car,
a compact hatchback. I doubt you can do the same in a 4-door sedan however.
One of the two boxes contains the stamped steel stand, is fairly small and weighs
about 30 lbs. The other one contains the rest: motor, fence and jointer bed.
That second box is roughly 4 ft x 2 ft x 1.5 ft and weighs more than 200 lbs.
The guys at Busy Bee dropped it in my car with a forklift and I used elbow
grease to get it out. BTW, don't count on opening the big box to carry the
parts separately to your shop: the jointer bed comes fully assembled and
weighs about 150 lbs.

BTW, it was quite something to see the guy's face when I told him I would
bring my car to the loading bay. He said: Your CAR !?!
But I was right and it did fit without problems 8^)
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel Ouellet, Research Associate
Pulp and Paper Centre, University of British Columbia
2385 East Mall, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6T 1Z4
Tel:(604)822-8240   Fax:(604)822-8563   Email: daniel@ppc.ubc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni)
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 21:53:46 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1993Jan8.182410.5082@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark) writes:
>>and a sander. No drill press. No jointer. No planer. No biscuit muncher.
>>No blivot maker. No squiblet flurbigator... Gimme some ideas on how to
>>do some nice things with my limited resources..!
>
>This reminds me of something.  I saw that AMT has a squiblet flurbigator
>for $250.  This seems like a ridiculously low price, so I wanted to know
>if anyone has used it?  It may have a plastic flywheel, so I am a little
>concerned.  The Delta flurbigator is obviously the best, but how often
>does one use a flurbigator anyway?
Well I use mine all the time.  I would spend the extra bucks to get a
quality flurbigator since it will probably outlast you, but if you
get a Sears flurbigator you will end up buying 5 or 6 in the next 20 to 40
years.  Just make sure you get one with an induction motor.  They are 
much quieter.  You could get a cheap blivot maker since no one makes 
blivots anymore anyway.  


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mtb@cray.com (Michael Brown)
Subject: Re: AMT tools?
Reply-To: mtb@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 5 Jan 93 16:14:03 CST


In article 1@cs.cmu.edu, cokasaki+@CS.CMU.EDU (Chris Okasaki) writes:

>Does anybody have any experience with AMT tools?  I'm considering getting
>a lathe (and possibly a drill press) through them.
>
>-- 
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>| Chris Okasaki       |                          Life is NOT a zero-sum game! |
>| cokasaki@cs.cmu.edu |                                                       |
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------




I ordered the AMT 10" table saw about two years ago.  I was disappointed
with the quality...

     1. it had a lot of vibration, mostly from the cheap belt and I don't
        think the pulleys were ground - a different belt helped.

     2. poor castings, there were spots on the table (no bigger that 1/8") 
        that looked funny so I poked at them with a pen knife and they 
        was soft - lead maybe?

I applied my free $50 of additional merchandise to their bandsaw, it was a
really poor copy of the 14" Delta.

I read somewhere that a table saw was a persons most important choice in 
life after his/her spouse!  I knew if I kept it I'd be replacing it later so 
I purchased a 1 1/2 HP Delta Unisaw (there was $100 rebate at the time).

Anyway I packaged everything back up and sent it back and got no questions 
asked and received a full refund - shipping too!  As far as I'm aware AMT
is the only company to offer the home trial on machinery, which is nice when
you're buying from a picture.

I have not since mail ordered any machinery - I've decided its worth a 
two hour drive to Minneapolis/St Paul to look things over.


Mike Brown
From: mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Pipe Clamp Pipes
Date: 8 Jan 93 14:55:11 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: GTE Laboratories

Does anyone have any experience cutting their own threads in 3/4" black
iron pipe for pipe clamps? Places around town want $2.00 per end for pipe
not purchased at their store. I have about 6 4-5 ft pipes I found in
excellent condition that need threaded. Is it cost effective to buy the
tools to do this?

thanks,
michael
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: April 1987 issue of WOOD Magazine
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:50:30 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.150831.8466@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com>, kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) writes:
|> 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com (Chris Heiny)
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Reply-To: chris@eso.mc.xerox.com
Organization: Xerox Corporation, Webster NY
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 14:42:12 GMT


I have here a recent flyer from Jet announcing their new bench-bottom tool line
("If you're like most of us, the top of your bench is probably pretty cluttered:
there's the drill press, the grinder, the plate joiner, a couple of circular saws,
2 or 4 drills, the miter box, 47 screw drivers (all Torx head - not a slot or phillips
in the bunch), 143 little jars and boxes of fasteners and 16,243 feet of
extension cord.  Heck, you probably can't even tell (or remember) whether the
benchtop is maple, pine, masonite, formica, or linoleum.  But... stick your
head underneath, brush those spiderwebs out of the way (but don't annoy the
spiders >too< much - we don't want you dying until you've bought our tools), and
what do you see?  Acres and acres of unused horizontal surface, just dying to be
covered with more toys!  And Jet has the world's only complete line of bench
bottom tools!" but back to our original topic...)

Anyhow, this flyer touts Jet's new benchbottom squiblet furbligator.  It looks
pretty much like a knock off of the Delta stationary furbligator, but Jet
claims they've reduced the weight from 473 pounds to 18 pounds 3 ounces by 
making the the tiller retention nut from aluminum.  (I suspect leaving the
Delta's cast iron base off helped there, too.)

The Jet's features are pretty much like the Delta's: it takes all four standard
sizes of squiblet (0, 00, 000, and submicron), adjusts from 1/64" to 3 chains
(the dial indicator is marked in English, metric and Sumerian), and the dust
collector attachment is nearly inaccessible.  Unlike the Delta, tho, the miter
slot is T'ed to keep the miter guage (handily marked in 20 degree increments)
from falling on the floor.  Unfortunately, it has no clamps (or provision for
clamps) so the stock tends to fall on the floor unless you hang on pretty tight.

At $325, it's more expensive than the Grizzly or AMT, but still a lot cheaper
than the Delta.  I've already ordered 2.

						Chris
From: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders
Date: 6 Jan 93 22:34:18 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article 20600738@TECHNET.NM.ORG, BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG () writes:
>I bought the Ryobi about 2 months ago and have given it some use over the
>holidays on wooden toys. It works well enough but is rather noisy. I would
>say that it is not meant for production work and whilt that is ok for me you
>need to judge based on your requirements. I could not justify the cost of the
>Fein. In fact an alternative is a finishing head attachmnet for a hand grinder
>can be found in the Woodworker's Supply catalog.

I have one of those Wolfcraft sander attachments and would recommend it. The rotation
arc is too large to really get close without beating up the perpendicular wood.  
Getting good at chisel/plane cleanup has worked much better.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: golka@bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Drying wet wood without cracking, HOW?
Date: 5 Jan 93 22:05:27 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research

In article <9212301749.AA02472@TIS.COM> richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark) writes:
......
>
>	At any rate, after having turned the wood wet, (it's soo much softer
>and easier. Dogwood turns into a *rock* when it dries.) I stand the work on
>the bench to dry for a week or so. But it inevitably forms cracks and splits
>which I'd rather not have. So the question is: Is there any quick and easy
>way to dry the stuff without having it split? Is there something I can do,
>build, buy, cheaply?
>
>	Thanks. Your help is greatly appreciated...
>
>
>					Richard H. Clark

Richard: Turn it to a wall thickness of about 3/4 - 1 ".
         Coat it with a heavy coat of paste wax, or some sort of sealer.
         Weigh it if you can.
         Put it in a closed paper bag, and wait a few months, or until it stops
losing
         weight.
         The bowl will have warped,and will be oval.
         Put it back on the lathe, and turn it to finished thickenss.
         Note: If original wall thickness was less than warp, you will end up
with 
               negative wall thickness:-0 If this happens, rough turn it
thicker next time;-
         More than one coat of wax may help. 
         It is hard to avoid cracking of large knots in some woods. Just accept
this
         as part of the artistic value of the piece. Tell them you planned it
that way;-)
         Try to avoid having the pith (center ) of any end grain near the edge
of the bowl.
         Avoid the pith of the main trunk like the plague.

Good luck! Bill Crick
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Subject: Re: Pipe Clamp Pipes
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 19:38:44 GMT

In article <mlh1-080193095904@132.197.9.231>, mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney) writes:
>Does anyone have any experience cutting their own threads in 3/4" black
>iron pipe for pipe clamps? Places around town want $2.00 per end for pipe
>not purchased at their store. I have about 6 4-5 ft pipes I found in
>excellent condition that need threaded. Is it cost effective to buy the
>tools to do this?
>
>thanks,
>michael

I can't imagine it being cost effective, even if you rented the threader.
Check some plumbing houses and/or neighborhood hardware stores.  The
local Ace hardware (or is it True-Value?) threaded some pipe for me
for $.50 an end.

Bill Weissborn
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Camphor wood
Date: 4 Jan 1993 17:28 PST
Organization: California Institute of Technology
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Hi All,

	I was wondering if anyone out there has worked with camphor wood? I
have two chunks about 12" diam and 12"tall that were cut off of a tree in
front of my apartment. It has been 6 months now (they have been sitting out
exposed to the elements), but they still smell of camphor. Do I need to 
worry about toxicity of the camphor? Where can I go to find out more about
the wood (i.e. books)?

				Thanks in advance,  Dave Thompson.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chinn@rosencrantz.osf.org (David Chinn)
Subject: Re: Cutting tenons on a table saw
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:36:01 GMT

In article <ZRu8wB3w164w@thinker.thinker.com> rick@thinker.thinker.com (Rick Yazwinski) writes:
>
>> >on a table saw, I discovered that it is usually easier and
>> >probably safer for me at least to avoid making the cheek cut
>> >altogether, and instead simply nibble away the waste after making
>> >the shoulder cut.  This avoids having to support the board in an
>> 
>> I built a simple tenoning jig, which is nothing more than a vertical
>> surface which rides along the fence.  The workpiece is held in vertical
>> position, against a stop, and the whole jig slides along the fence.
>> 
>I've had a question about this technique for some time now.  What do you 
>do if you have to cut a tenon at the end of a long board (say 8' or longer)? 
>It seems to me that this would be to unweildy to cut vertically (not to 
>mention the ceiling you'd need).

Get a router, or a good saw and chisels:-).

trying to guide the end of an eight foot board through a table saw
would be a challenge vertically *or* horizontally.


					david chinn

"Even if the opinions are wrong, at least they're mine."
						




Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: srbeckle@cbnewse.cb.att.com (steven.r.beckle)
Subject: Wet Bar Plans needed
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:40:45 GMT

I'm looking for plans for a small wet bar.

Thanks


Steve
From: JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 8 Jan 93 21:59:09 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
              8 Jan 1993 13:39:12 -0600 from <clewis@BCARH1D7.BNR.CA>

On Fri, 8 Jan 1993 13:39:12 -0600 Chris Lewis said:
>In article <64770027@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark
>Williams) writes:

 <deleted>

>Nope.  The Shakers weren't averse to powered equipment..
>
 <deleted>
>
>Unlike the Amish, the Shakers would probably have used power
>tools for joinery if they had been available at the time, *and* the
>results were satisfactory..
>
>I don't think the Shakers had an aversion to electricity like traditional
>Amish..
>
 Well times are a chang'in even for the Amish.  I was watching a PBS show on
 the Amish, traditional, pious, as you would expect, except......for........
 that.....pneumatic butterfly sander with half inch air supply hose he was
 using to sand that beautiful china cabinet with!  Hey, competition
 was getting tuff.  Or my Grandparent-in-laws who live in Lancaster PA who
 were
 telling us about an Amish aquaintance who decided a phone was a necessary
 evil......so she put it in the barn!  Everything is O.K now.  I wonder who
 she talks to with it?

 Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDAL
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re:      Where's Norm? (in NYC)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 20:01:30 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <WOODWORK%93010514462309@IPFWVM.BITNET>,         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET> writes:
> Speaking of Norm, I haven't been able to find NYW this season in NY (the only
> PBS station I can get is WNET - channel 13). Does anyone know if or when
> WNET still carries it? Another favorite, Victory Garden, has also vanished from
> the airwaves, but that's for another list...

Sigh.  I just called up WNET -- through the end of February, at least,
there's no sign of it on the schedule.  Doesn't look good...

I have a call in to New Jersey Network (assorted UHF stations around the
state -- if you hunt around, maybe you can pick one up, or maybe channel
21).  And maybe I'll have to switch my membership to NJN, if I get the
right answer...
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re:      Cutting tenons on a table saw
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:27:47 GMT

In article 93010415472946@IPFWVM.BITNET,         CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET () writes:
>Being fairly new, I have been building a workbench out of 2 by 4's and
>using mortise and tenon joinery.  Drilling the mortises with a 1/2" bit
>in my Shopsmith, and squaring them out with a 1/2" chisel was satisfying.
>
>In cutting the tenons, I ended up cutting the shoulders with the saw set
>to cut 1/2" deep and made four passes.  Then I set the saw blade to a height
>of 1 and 1/8", placed my rip fence so the edge of the blade kerf AWAY from
>the fence was 1/2" from the fence and made the four cheek cuts.
>
>My fear resulted from the bullet-like tendency of the cut outs shot back
>at me.  I had the foresight to stand to the side but was amazed at the
>loud "whack" on the wall when they came flying out.  Is there something I
>wasn't doing right (I assume)?   Any tips appreciated.   BTW the joints were
>great.
>

It's not entirely clear from your description, but it sounds like when you make the
cheek cuts you have the waste left between the blade and the rip fence?  If so, this
is definitly a no-no, and the result you got was the reason why.  I made this mistake
on one of my first projects - a set of VERY heavy duty shelves. I made each shelf
by framing a piece of plywood with a rabbet'd 2 by 2.  I made the rabbets with two
cuts on the saw, with the waste left between the blade and fence.  My shop at the
time was in a half-basement.  I launched several missiles clear to the far end of
the adjacent crawl-space and smack into the foundation before I decided maybe that
wasn't the best way to do it.  Good thing I wasn't standing in the line of fire or
I might have been impaled!  Also good I have a wimpy 1HP saw, just think if I had
one of those bone-crunching 3HP monsters!  Probably would have killed my neighbor's
dog (not like I would have minded all that much, but I digress ...).

Walt




From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 20:24:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Cutting pressure-treated wood (was Re: Power Switch on RAS ???)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) writes:

> And DON'T EVER, EVER, EVER try to cut pressure-treated 2 X 6's that are 
> still wet in the middle.

   Would it be better to cut 2X6's that are still wet    further out toward
   the end, rather than the middle?     :-)   :-)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jdl@felix (John Liberty)
Subject: Re: Table saw surface protection
Organization: Eastman Kodak
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 23:42:42 GMT

I have a question on "cleaning" a table saw surface before the protection.
I inherited a Sears 8" table saw that was sitting in a damp basement for 
a while. The surface is fairly rusted, but still in good shape.
Before I attempt to clean it (using whatever methods I think might to
the trick), can anybody relate any experience in cleaning their units?

Any solutions would be welcomed...

--
*******************************************************************************
John Liberty			jdl@raster.Kodak.COM
Eastman Kodak Co.		(716)781-1189
*******************************************************************************
From: milt@sdd.hp.com (Milt Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders
Date: 5 Jan 1993 09:50:49 -0800
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

In article <1993Jan4.225745.1148@intellistor.com> grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun) writes:
>I considered the Fein version for quite a while, but just couldn't bring
>myself to part with that much dough.  There was a review of it (the Fein) 
>in a magazine sometime ago (no, I don't remember which one).

If I'm not mistaken ( I often am :-( ) there was a review in a recent edition
of WoodenBoat Magazine.  Possibly the Sept/Oct or Nov/Dec 92 editions.
If anyone is interested, I could find out exactly which one.


Milt Fisher - Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
milt@sdd.hp.com
-- 
Milt Fisher - Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
milt@sdd.hp.com