HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [A] spark plug inserts: what's the best kind ?
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 29 Dec 1992 14:07:41 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

In article <29DEC199200245147@venus.tamu.edu>, mthomas@venus.tamu.edu (Mark
Thomas) wrote:
> 
> kdrolt@athena.mit.edu (Kenneth D Rolt) writes...
> >i have at least one stripped spark plug thread on my air cooled motor;
> >the other cylinders might not need attention (yet).  

[lots of good advice deleted]

> If you're sure you don't want to remove the heads, after tapping
> and reaming the hole and again after installing the inserts,
> crank the engine for a while with the coil-distributer cable
> disconnected and with the spark plug out, to try to blow out any
> metal particles from the cylinder.

If you're going to do it this way, I'd recommend taking the hot wire off
the coil terminal - you REALLY don't want any risk of a spark while pumping
air/fuel mixture around vigorously.  Better yet, take the carburetor off
before cranking.

When I did this I used a compressor and a small nozzle to just blow in the
hole until no more chips came out.

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu)
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: CR auto lemon law article
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 16:15:32 GMT

In article <1hsfaoINNfnf@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Hey now, all!
>I know how some of you feel about Consumer Reports, but this article has
>some interesting notes for those of you who are pissed off about your late
>model, water cooled volksies.  Reprinted without permission.

lines deleted
>
>Most interesting was a graph by make of car, based on data from six states,
>on which Volkswagen was second to last!  [blurb above graph reprinted here:]

lines deleted describing bad performance in fixing warranteed defects

>
>Food for thought.
>Bill
>-- 

Yes, I've also been wondering about what vanagon part prices say about
vw's committment to customers.  $800 for radiator hoses, $460 for a muffler,
etc.  Considering the loyalty of VW owners & the percentage of vw's shrinking
market share they represent, something is wrong with this picture. Perhaps
a letter to VWoA and VAG presidents would make me feel better.

If I'd wanted a car that would _B_reak _M_y _W_allet, I'd have bought a BMW!

Jason
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: achenbac@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Jeff Achenbach)
Subject: Re: Brake question
Keywords: 71' super beetle
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 19:28:59 GMT

In article <1992Dec31.012232.23153@pony.Ingres.COM> garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) writes:
>	I have what should be a simple question <heh>. What exactly
>does it mean when you have to pump your brakes twice to get them to work
>properly? BTW, this question is in reference to drum brakes. 
>
>-Garrett@Ingres.com


May be air in the lines, but most likely need to adjust the shoes. The first
stroke gets them near the drums, the second makes contact.

Jeff Achenbach
From: paul@hsh.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Oil light ON!
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:29:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1992Dec21.232424.20961@novell.com>, dheckman@novell.com (Diane
Heckman) writes: 
> 
> I've got a 1972 VW Camper Van that I just bought a month ago.
>
> Saturday night, after a 10 mile drive, the oil light came on 
> as I turned round a corner in first gear.  Aaaaaaa!  I parked the
> car within a minute of it going on.  The engine wasn't hot,
> since it didn't smell that way, and I could pull out the dipstick
> with my bare fingers on a cold night.  An hour later, I checked the
> oil, and found it at the lower mark, so over the next two hours,
> I added a total of 3/4 quart, checking all the while to make sure
> I didn't add too much and blow the seal.  Drove home that night, 
> with no odd noises (as far as I could tell with the engine being
> so far back).  Checked the oil in the morning, it was full.  Drove
> 30 miles each direction into the Santa Cruz mountains.  No oil
> light.
> 
> I'm hoping that the oil light came on for the kindest of 
> reasons - to tell me the oil was low.  But now I'm worried 
> about any damage that might have been done while the oil 
> was low.  

I second William's vote, posted earlier: you've little to worry about,
especially if the engine was cold.  I've had it happen on Bugs from '66
to '74.  The reason is, of course, that there are no 'baffles' in the oil pan 
to prevent the oil sloshing to one side of the pan -- and uncovering the 
sensor.

It got to the point where I could tell just how much oil to add -- it depends
on how long the light stays on.  Five seconds or so means you're down almost
a quart. 


------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ 

Paul Havemann, VP        HSH Associates          (201) 838-3330 | 1-800-UPDATES
Internet: paul@hsh.com   Compuserve: 70410,3507  America On-Line: HSH Assoc
  ...Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the company...
From: ari@nersc.gov (Ari Ollikainen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: WANTED: Westfalia Center Seat(s)
Summary: 1984-1986 Camper Center Bucket Seat(s)
Date: 22 Dec 92 05:25:06 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Energy Research Supercomputer Center, Livermore CA
Originator: ari@viipuri.nersc.gov

I'm looking for the center, swiveling bucket seat that came as an
option on 1984-1986 WestfaliaGLs. If you have one sitting in your
garage, or know of same, please let me make an offer.

Ari Ollikainen
ari@es.net

415 852 0200 (home)
510 423 5962 (work)
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Installing an Oil Pressure Gauge on a 16v engine
Date: 30 Dec 92 17:20:38 GMT
Organization: Brandeis University

In article <7716@dove.nist.gov> keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) writes:
>
>Hi,
>
>Has anyone out there installed a VDO (electrical) Oil Pressure gauge/
>sender on a VW 16v engine, while retaining the idiot light/buzzer?
>
>I bought via mail order a "Night Design" electrical
>pressure gauge (150 PSI), and a "Dual" sender (operates gauge and 
>idiot light).
>
>On 16v engines both oil pressure switches are located on the oil filter
>flange.  My question is, which switch do i replace? How can i tell which
>is the "high pressure" and which is the "low pressure"? Does it matter?
>
>Larry                            __/    _______/_                 

The dual sender should specify what pressure sets off the idiot light
and whether it is normally open (makes contact when pressure is
applied) or normally closed (vice versa).  In my 84 GTI at least, the
two senders are of opposite types, one is NC and the other NO, I
forget which.  You _HAVE_ to match types and it would be nice to match
pressures.

The wiring harness should distinguish between the two senders on the
flange.  Check for wire color coding in Bently's and that will lead
you to the right one.  The senders are also different colors and I
could tell you what color is which if I look at the senders I just
bought monday.

You can finess this matching of senders by installing all three
senders.  Either find yet another place (maybe on the head??) to mount
the third sender, or put two senders on a "T" pipe.


-andy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Subject: Re: Splitting this Group
Reply-To: cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Organization: Nottingham University
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 14:24:51 GMT

In the best traditions of lighting the blue touch paper and retiring to a safe
distance :-), can I just make a quick suggestion here.....

I've stated before that to me the amount of daily traffic alone does not 
warrant a split in the group:  I've been against splitting personally because
although I drive a Beetle and no other form of VW, topics have arisen or
threads developed that are not solely air-related but which I still find
interesting to read.

Some people, myself included, have tried the idea of prefixing the subject 
with a [A] or [W] accordingly, which then makes things very easy for those
who wish to know nothing of the other camp to filter out the chaff - ok it
relies on people sticking to the rules, but even if most do it might just
catch on.

My proposal then is that instead of just immediately splitting up we have a
go at a trial separation - how about if everyone makes the effort to stick a
[A] or [W] (or none if not specific) at the start of the message, and see if
it works - or is typing these 3 extra characters going to be too much for
people?

Just my guess,
                    Marlon

------------
Marlon Cole                  email:  cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk or
Systems Programmer                   cczcole@uk.ac.nott.unicorn depending.....
Cripps Computing Centre
University of Nottingham
NOTTINGHAM. NG7 2RD
England
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: [W] Vanagon tires
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Date: 23 Dec 1992 15:10:36 GMT
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

In article <1h81c4INNofg@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P.
Claspy) wrote:
[deleted references to deleted references] 
> Second, a note that had this been posted to a water-cooled only group, I may
> not have read it.  As Jason mentions,
> 
> >BTW, the referenced posting had a "[w]" but isn't this subject also
> >applicable to air cooled Vanagons (pre 83)?
> 
> Let's keep one group.

oops!  I momentarily forgot that some Vanagons are air-cooled. Here I was,
trying to be helpful...
Are the air-cooled models as heavy?

bcnu - grungy (John Gladu)
Systems Support Center -- Baylor College of Medicine
INTERNET: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu  | VOICE: (713)798-7370
 US MAIL:  One Baylor Plaza, Houston, Texas  77030
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eschwa@teal.csn.org (Emerson Schwartzkopf)
Subject: Re: Help needed with my 72 camper van
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 06:29:47 GMT

Okay, I've had the same problem with the "not starting" routine and a 72
van. I found that the starter had really given up the ghost and needed to
be replaced. (A good rebuilt will do the job and shouldn't run over $55 or
so at an AutoZone or similar store).

After replacing the starter, I found that the battery was pretty well
shot. I live in Gunnison, CO, where I spent most of last week at -20 F, so
battery death is a way of life. Anyway, I put in a new battery and all
works well, except ... well, at times, I can crank the starter for three
or four seconds, and if the engine doesn't fire, the starter sticks and
keeps running. Such is life with a VW bus.

By the way, I don't start the poor ol' thing at -20, although I do have an
oil pan heater. Winter short-range driving is with Castrol 5-30W, and
regular road trips (I drive this thing as part of writing a column for a
sign magazine) are accomplished with straight 50W in spring, summer and fall.
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help needed with my 72 camper van
Date: 30 Dec 1992 18:41:51 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Diane sez-

>There was no mention of a new solenoid
>on the repair bill ($140!!!).  Should I assume that they would have
>also replaced the solenoid, or that the 20 year old one is still there?

These two go together like bread and butter.  Can't get a new (i.e. rebuilt)
starter without a new (rebuilt?) solenoid attached to it.  Part should run you
about $60 or so and they'll want the core to rebuild and sell to someone else.
Recycling in action!  (or actually "reusing")

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: jimk@bvc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: '89 Audi Quattro price needed
Date: 28 Dec 92 14:43:19 CST
Organization: Buena Vista College, Storm Lake, IA

What is a reasonable price to pay for an '89 Audi Quattro 4-dr, w/41,000 
miles, leather seats, sunroof.  Looks to be in good condition.  Local 
dealer has had it in his inventory since September.  He's asking about 
$14,300.  In this part of the world, these are a rarity.  Any and all parts 
needed will have to be ordered!

Jim Kennedy
Buena Vista College
Storm Lake, Iowa 50588
JIMK@BVC.EDU
712-749-2127 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos,austin.general
From: mcr@cactus.org (Mike)
Subject: Looking for Good Local Repair Shops for Corrado
Organization: Capital Area Central Texas UNIX Society, Austin, Tx
Distribution: austin
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:26:52 GMT


Please send all replies to my EMAIL, rather than posting, OK?  Thanks:

Looking for a good local (Austin area) repair facility for some engine
work on a VW Corrado.  Anyone with high peformance VW (GTI, Corrado,
Scirrocco, etc.) have any good recommendations here in town?  My engine's
idling real rough, just started yesterday.  Might be a clogged injector
or who knows?  Please advise through my email acct:  mcr@cactus.org

Thanks for any info.

Mike R.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Subject: Re: OEM vs 3rd party mufflers [A][W]
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 15:30:33 GMT

In <BzrMov.KpA@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:

>In article <1992Dec23.201714.6753@linus.mitre.org>, m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas) writes:
>>

>Stuff Deleted....

>>The Issues
>>     With the exception of the dealer unit, it is very hard to know exactly
>>what one is getting.  None of these options is claimed to improve (or hurt) 
>>performance.  None of them are extractors.  Unfortunately, there seem to be no
>>performance upgrades for the waterboxer :-(.
>>      Durability is not a concern (the Midas and AP guarantees), but I'm really
>>wondering if there will be a performance impact.  With leisurely performance 
>>and 18mpg (US), a performance hit would be a definite drawback.  Is it true
>>that higher back pressures are always bad and lower are always good?  How will
>>the 3rd party mufflers differ from stock ?
>>
>>The Request
>>     Please post theoretical considerations, experience with 3rd party
>>mufflers, and if they exist, better places to mail order mufflers.  I've
>>been reading the net for a couple of months now and haven't seen a similar
>>discussion.  I hope this starts a good thread!
>>
>>BTW, tried [A][W] in front of title line but rn wouldn't take it.  What gives? 
>>
>>Jason (jdouglas@mitre.org)

>Recycled VW is a good place to deal with if thats any help. If you are
>going to buy a muffler for ANY imported car, get the orriginal or
>OEM equipment. OEM - Original Equipment Manufacture means the
>supplier to the manufacturer has made the muffler, or the
>muffler was made to the supplier's specifications. Stay away from
>Midas, Mineke, and others, they tend to use "universal" mufflers
>which are adapted to to "fit" various cars, thats why they can
>sell so cheap.

I had a midas muffler on my car when I bought it - it sucked. Luckily
it fell off and I got a Leistritz. Sounds better and you can tell the
performance improvement. It looks better too.

>The problem with these "universal" systems is that they probably
>do not have the same backpressure and flow characteristics as
>the stock system, and may tend to affect performance.

>Ric 



-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: [W] Vanagon tires
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 18:42:25 GMT

In article <1h81c4INNofg@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>> [deleted interesting stuff by Jason about Vanagon tires]
>
>First, a question.  Does this information apply to busses?  I have XZX's on
>the back of my '77 bus and the front tires are some sort of no-name that
>need to be replaced.  I was planning on putting the XZX's on the front and
>getting the Sears Roadhandler (i.e. Michelin's) on the back.  Should they
>be LT tires?  And should I really NOT have XZX's on my bus?
>
     I'm no expert, but it seems that the "LT" designation itself is not    
important.  What you need is load capacity, the capability to run at recommended
inflation pressures, and, according to some, stiff enough sidewalls.  The
LT designation usually applies because it is typically light trucks that
have these requirements.  (Yes, we don't think of busses and vanagons in the
same breath as Ford pick-em-ups, but the majority of production does seem 
to go to commercial use, at least in Europe).
    If you aren't sure about the suitability of a tire, I would *at least*
compare the tire max load rating with the max gross vehicle weight divided by 4
(the weight distro for the Vanagon is 50/50, what about the bus ?), and 
would compare the max inflation with VWs recommended pressures.  As mentioned
in my last post, the '87 Vanagon should run 39 psi front 48 rear. I'd expect
the bus to be similar. 
    Maintaining the same split with passenger car tires would require 24 front
and 35 rear.  24 front leaves little room for fluctuation and is low for my 
taste in a vehicle this tall and heavy. Perhaps car tires would have a 
different inflation pressure vs. slip angle characteristic than the recommended
 tires.  Unless you can talk with a tire engineer, you'd be guessing about the
right pressures to run.  Remember, a different split than recommended will 
affect the steering characteristics.  Higher pressures = reduced tire slip 
angle.  The purpose of the higher rear recommended pressures is to make the
vanagon understeer. (less slip angle in rear than front -> understeer, I think.
Somebody HELP if this is wrong). There is nothing wrong with oversteer in a
sporty car, if you are ready for it, but that sort of experimentation is
somewhat more dicey in the tall and heavy vanagon/bus.
     Reach your own conclusions.

Jason (jdouglas@mitre.org)
   Mein anderes Auto ist ein Volkswagen.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mikec@wam.umd.edu (Michael D. Callaghan)
Subject: Opinion Sought: 85+ Golf/GTI
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 01:29:19 GMT

I am looking to buy an A2 Golf. Would someone be so kind as
to give me a rundown of the differences between the various
models of Golf/GTIs between '85-'88? 

Basically, I'm wondering about the differenes in the engines.
I think that they got rid of the solid lifters in later years.
Is this correct? I've been told also to stay away from the
'85 GTIs. Why would that be?

Thanks,
MikeC

PS: What would be a decent price to pay for the various models,
assuming a 15k/year mileage?
-- 
Michael D. Callaghan
Temporarily in New Hampshire
603-880-0266
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Ed Reddy)
Subject: Re: The VW domino effect
Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 03:18:54 GMT

In article <1h7f11INNcud@transfer.stratus.com> savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia) writes:
>at least $350 ($101/part, $20 for the boot kits,
>and 4 hours labor, $160).  After going to several 
>mechanics and getting charged approximately the same
>price everywhere, I think I'm just living in the wrong
>part of the world.  
>
(lots deleted)
 
4 HOURS TO REPAIR A CV JOINT? THATS A RIPOFF!!!!!
 
A CV joint takes 1 hour. Not two, not three or four, not one and a half
(unless your CV joint has fused) ONE HOUR.
Where are you getting your work done? Are they removing the bolts by
hand? That's amazing. A CV joint costs $100 for the part and another
$20-30 dollars for the boot kits... but 4 hours? Talk about talking
someone to town...
 
Kind of reminds me of what a mechanic at the dealer told me a tie rod
end would take to replace. 2 hours. My local garage did it in a half an
hour. And another half hour to give a 4 wheel alignment. Cost? $45 end,
$8 boot, $50 alignment. + taxes... 122.00. Dealer estimate... $275.00
 
Then again, some mechanics give worst time ratios. Ie. 2 hours max. They
might do it in half an hour.

|------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Ed Redddy				"To get back on your feet  |
| ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca              just miss two car payments"|
| Memorial University			    - Anonymous            |
| of Newfoundland      						   |
|------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jbc@linus.mitre.org (John B. Campbell)
Subject: Re: [A] spark plug inserts: what's the best kind ?
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 16:11:35 GMT

In article <29DEC199200245147@venus.tamu.edu> mthomas@venus.tamu.edu (Mark Thomas) writes:

[......]  in response to a question about the best way to
install heli-coil inserts:
[..]
>   you don't get the metal shavings (from tapping the holes) in the
>   cylinders.

>   If you're sure you don't want to remove the heads, after tapping
>   and reaming the hole and again after installing the inserts,
>   crank the engine for a while with the coil-distributer cable
>   disconnected and with the spark plug out, to try to blow out any
>   metal particles from the cylinder.

>   Mark Thomas                         | The train ... traditional,
>   Evans Library, Texas A&M University |   yet environmentally sound  
>   (409) 845-5147 / FAX (409) 845-6238 |  
>   mthomas@tamvenus / mthomas@tamu.edu |              --Lisa Simpson


I just wanted to add a caution for folks who've not heard about the
danger of working around open spark plug holes.  Mark correctly
describes the way to expel the metal shavings from the interior of the
head after reaming out the spark plug hole (though you aren`t
absolutely guaranteed that every piece comes out.)

There might be readers out there who would be tempted to do a more
thorough job by *sucking* the shavings out, rather than blowing them
out.  Sucking with what?  A modified crevice tool on a vacuum cleaner.

*********DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT DOING THIS!! YOU MAY WIND UP IN
LITTLE PIECES INSIDE THE FLAMING WRECK OF YOUR GARAGE!******

Reason:  if, while you're vacuuming, the intake valve is in the open
position, you'll be pulling in a mixture of gas and air through the
carburetor.  The mixture goes into the vac, and passes by the motor
on its way out the vac's exhaust.  Most vacs (especially the old ones
relegated to auto cleaning) have sparking at the commutator/brush
interface.  What happens to the mixture when it passes the sparks?
Same as inside the cylinder:  BOOM!  But it's in the vac, not the
cylinder.

Do it Mark's way, or remove the head if you want every last shred.
--
****************************************************************
*                                      *                       *
* John B. Campbell                     *   This space          *
* MITRE Corporation                    *                       *
* Bedford, MA 01730                    *   intentionally       *
* (617)271-3434                        *                       *
* <jbc@mitre.org>                      *   blank.              *
*                                      *                       *
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Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw