HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: boldtp@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (If ya think long, you'll think wrong.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Catalpa tree
Date: 21 Jan 93 18:23:07 EST
Distribution: usa

In article <carolyn.726721729@bucket>, carolyn@bucket.rain.com (Carolyn Peterson) writes:
> 
> 
> I'm looking at our cold, frozen, snowy yard and making plans
> for spring planting.  One thing I'm considering adding is a
> catalpa tree.  Are there any negative points that I should be
> aware of?

 Yep,  They're very brittle.  They tend to drop large branches on
unsuspecting humans.

>           Is there a specific variety anyone can recommend?
> We live near Portland, Oregon.

Northern Catalpa, not to be confuesed with Southern Catalpa, is
what you want.  I don't know of any specific varieties.

> 
> I want a deciduous tree.  30-40 feet high, with big leaves

I believe they get somewhat larger than 40 feet, like 60-80 feet.

> (faster to rake in the fall).  It will be about 10-12 feet
> from a sidewalk and 10-12 feet from a patch of lawn..
> 
> Any help will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Carolyn Peterson
> carolyn@bucket.rain.com
From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Need Help on Peony Tree....
Date: 18 Jan 93 17:58:16 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

There was a good-sized tree peony here when I bought my house, and I
waited with great anticipation from summer til the next spring, when
it had many 8-12" pale yellow flowers with pink edges. They're
spectacular! I love watching the fat buds burst open in the spring,
the tiny crinkled leaves rapidly growing into big divided leaves.
In the fall, they turn yellow + red, also a bonus. The naked stems
in the winter are a tad unlovely, in my opinion, but a small price
to pay. They haven't had any pest problems, and they do need a modest
amount of summer water.

I think it does take a year or two for small plants to flower, and
the flowering-sized ones I've seen in nurseries are REALLY
expensive.

A couple of branches of my plant have started to block the
sidewalk, so if anyone has hints on propagating from cuttings, I'd
love to know when and how.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,bionet.plants
From: abl9y@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Andrew B. Lederman)
Subject: Seed germination for tropical plants
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:19:52 GMT

I recently acquired some tropical seeds (dwarf banana, bird of paradise,
passion flower) and need some advice on how to get them started.  The problem 
is that they require germination tempereatures between 80 - 90 degrees.

How can I provide adequate temperatures and humidity etc. in my cold apartment?
I figure I could make some sort of mini greenhouse with an aquarium, but I don't
know the best way to keep the temperature up.

Thanks,

Andrew

abl9y@virginia.edu
From: ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: sources for moss?
Date: 25 Jan 1993 13:41:46 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Where can I buy moss spores or plants?

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Root-knot Nematode in Florida
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 28 Jan 1993 18:34:29 UTC

In article <9301272103.AA14889@sps070.lds.loral.com> 
charlie_hall@lds.loral.com writes:
>I recently pulled the last of my tomato plants and noticed that the
>roots were very badly knotted.  I believe the cause may be the
>infamous root-knot nematode.  A popular method for reducing the
>damage caused by this pest is to use Vapam.  A friend told me
>that his garden supplier indicated that Vapam is no longer on
>the market.
>I have not used Vapam in a couple of years, and have instead used
>the "clear plastic heating in the hot sun" method which is certainly
>more environmentally sound than Vapam.  It appears to me that the
>pest has been building up over the last years, and that the clear
>plastic may not be working completely.
>Can anyone offer a solution, ideally one that I can live with
>environmentally?  Thanks in advance.

1. Sounds like nematodes and the Solanaceae family are very sensitive to
them, but the question is the yield loss. If you notice no drop in yield
of fruit or the loss is acceptable to you, it is ok, for now. But if
you've noticed yield loss from year to year, it is probably due to
nematodes and it will probably increase until the plants won't yield at
all.

2. Solarization should work, particulary in Florida, the Sunshine State.
The plastic must be sealed by making sure there are no rips or exposed
seams and covering the edges with dirt. 60 days straight in June and
July should do the trick in Florida, but perhaps 90 days should be tried
as an emergency measure to eliminate the nematodes. Solarization in
winter takes two to three times as long because of the lower sun and
lower air and soil temps.

3. Rotate to non Solanaceae family crops. Make two growing areas, one
for tomatoes and one for beans and reverse them every other year. Try to
incorporate a green manure crop into the rotation, for example clovers,
vetches, bell beans, or buckwheat.

4. Grow marigolds. From Seeds of Change, 1364 Rufina Circle #5, Sante
Fe, New Mexico, 87501, 505-438-8080:
Marigolds, Nematocidal #114
Tagetes minuta - A rare marigold that has not been available until now.
It's interesting to note that in the Mexican gardens, marigolds are
critical companion plants to maintain the health of the garden, so this
one is planted as hedges around the garden and in the gardens because it
effectively deters nematodes in the soils, and nematodes in the soils
gives you poor vegetables. So if you interplant your garden with this
marigold, you will improve the quality of your plants, particularly
radishes, carrots and broccoli. They also smell very fragrant and hence
support a set of beneficial insects that like their ambience. They grow
up to 10-12 feet tall, depending on the length of the season and the
amount of feeding, and are called minuta because they have small,
tubular yellow flowers that come on very late, 6-7 months after you put
them out into the garden.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: drmax@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Marianna Max)
Subject: Re: Clematis rehderiana
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 22:55:26 GMT

In article <24.2b5e8100@axolotl> bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org writes:
>lienhard@daydreamer.metaphor.com (Steve Lienhard) writes:
>
> > Does anyone know of a source (plants or seeds) for the species clematis,
> > Clematis rehderiana?  In Stephen Lacy's book 'Scent in your Garden' it
> > is described as the "most desirable of all clematis."
>
>In the 1992-93 catalog from THE FRAGRANT PATH (P.O. Box 328, Fort Calhoun,
>Nebraska 68023, USA), eight varieties of fragrant Clematis species are
>listed. They are Clematis crispa, C. macropetala, C. orientalis, C.
>paniculata, C. pitcheri, C. recta purpurea, C. tangutica. and C.
>viticella. Listed under ALTERNATIVES is Clematis texensis.
>
>You might contact the proprietor and inquire as to the availability of
>Clematis rehderiana.
>
>You also might have luck by contacting the following>
>
>        ARTHUR H. STEFFEN, INC.                 [CAT - $2]
>        P.O. Box 184                            [MIN. ORD. $30]
>        1259 Fairport Road
>        Fairport, NY 14450
>


Is this the same critter that is generically called Evergreen Clematis?
This one has a simple white flower that smells wonderful and keeps its
leaves all year so it looks pretty decent even when it isn't in bloom. It
also grows pretty quickly if my memory serves me.

Max
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:9243 misc.consumers.house:17447
From: jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Gardening programs
Date: 27 Jan 93 14:38:48 GMT
Organization: Center for Environmental and Regulatory Information Systems, Purdue University

Speaking of computer programs, does anyone know of any programs (freeware,
shareware, commercial) for planning a garden which will also give
approximate yields for what you plant?
-- 
"Land of song, said the warrior bard,           Jim Heath
Though all the world betrays thee.
One sword, at least, thy rights shall guard, (The Minstrel Boy)
One faithful harp will praise thee."         (Thomas Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: If you could only plant one thing
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 00:55:32 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.183939.7941@mcc.com> breland@cobweb.mcc.com writes:
>In article 1jmob5INN27u@CS.UTK.EDU, langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes:
>>a contributor asks an easy question:
>>>If you happened to live in a virtual-zone 4 place, with cruddy soil
>>>(but willing to amend it to some degree) with sunny and shady parts,
>>>what would you grow?
>  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>The question sounded to me like an inquiry of personal preference, not
>like a test with a right or wrong answer...I'm curious as to what other
>folks feel they absolutely can't live without, so how about it?

Well, roses, of course.  But I don't think my preference would be the
best choice for the questioner.  I've never lived in a cold climate,
for one thing, so I couldn't advise on zone 4 plants.

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: shelby@oxygen.cray.com (Shelby Anderson)
Subject: Care and Feeding of Apple Trees
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 21 Jan 93 09:08:41 CST

My BH and I inherited two apple trees when we moved into our house and
have absolutely no idea how to take care of them. (Calling us "novice"
gardeners is being polite!) The trees seem to be healthy and produced a lot
of fruit last fall, but most of it was inedible due to some sort of 
insect problem.

Can anyone help us out? What should we do so we will be able to take full
advantage of this wonderful resource? (We live in the Baltimore area, BTW.) 
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Shelby
shelby@cray.com
From: misty@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: where to find??
Date: 25 Jan 93 15:39:30 GMT
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Hello!  Does anyone know where to find Atropa belladonna to
grow?  This will not be grown as a houseplant, but as part
of a research paper.  Thanks!
From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Help!  They've got me by the roots!
Date: 27 Jan 93 14:53:27 GMT
Organization: AT&T

Regarding advice on getting rid of herb roots, it sounds like
you are talking about mint.

In my experience, once mint has been planted in a fertile area,
the only way to be rid of it is to move and leave no forwarding address.

Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio
From: Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org (Val Gillman)
Sender: FredMail@altern8.mi.org
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Addendum to my prev.post
Date: 19 Jan 93  14:54:00 EST

>From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez)
>Newsgroups: rec.gardens

>I neglected to mention in my previous posting.  There is also
>an organization called The Pawpaw Foundation based in Washington D.C.
>founded by R. Neal Peterson.  Unfortunately the article did not
>include an address.  However, with this sketchy info, anyone truly
>interested can probably track it down.

         Neal Peterson
         The Paw Paw Foundation
         PO Box 23432
         Washington  D.C. 20026

 * XXYW 1.12 * -Honk if you hate conformism-

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu
Subject: Wall o' Water, again
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:29:58 GMT

I know we discussed this a few weeks ago, but I've been in and out
of touch with the group, so forgive me if this was answered.  If I
go with the Wall o' Water for my tomatoes and/or peppers, how much
earlier can I expect to put the plants out?  I believe that our last
freeze date in my area is April 25.  Does using something like this
to heat the ground mean I could push this date back to the 18th or
even 15th?  (That is, if the weather cooperates with the averages :-) ).
 
Leslie Troutman
Music User-Services Coordinator
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
EMAIL: TROUTMAN@VMD.CSO.UIUC.EDU
VOICE: 217-244-4071
From: rmurphy@usc.edu (Bob Murphy)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Where will citrus prosper?
Date: 27 Jan 1993 02:18:45 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

I will soon be moving to Columbia, South Carolina.
I love oranges, lemons, and grapefruit and am curious whether
these trees will grow well in this area.

                       Thanks,
                           Bob Murphy

p.s.  Please post responses to the newsgroup since my email address
      will soon change.


                          

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: R1DWS@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU  (Dan Stefancik)
Subject: crabapple suckers
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 04:52:18 GMT

   Anyone have any information about using any growth regulators to stop
root suckers from growing on flg. crabapples?
From: garyk@engr.latech.edu (Gary S. Kleinpeter)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: perennials that don't like the heat
Date: 22 Jan 1993 06:09:18 GMT
Organization: Louisiana Tech University
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: garyk@engr.latech.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: pulsar.engr.latech.edu
Keywords: perennial

Does anyone have experience with a perennial that did not make it through a southern summer?  We'd like to experiment with  some varieties we don't see in the local nurseries; but if we hear of others' bad experience with a variety in the Deep South we'll steer clear of it.



Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Bob Klebba <nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: If you could only plant one thing this spr
Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 04:11:55 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.173147.7652@telerama.pgh.pa.us> Kristen McQuillin,
kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us writes:
>: >If you happened to live in a virtual-zone 4 place, with cruddy soil
>
>Not me, I'd plant thyme. I love the scent and use it in food, soap,
>and other herbal things. If I could plant two things, the second would
>be lavender.

Of all the thymes, mother of thyme seems to fair zone 4 winters the best,
but they all give up eventually.  Same with English lavender, they give
up when they're older.  I've never had a plant more than 3 seasons.

Nevertheless, I continue to grow lavender and thyme.  I'm just always
replanting and hoping the snow cover persists next winter. . . .

Bob Klebba
Madison, Wisconsin, USDA zone 4
Inet: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu
"Feed the soil, not the plant"
From: stevek@providence (Steven Klitzing)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: greenhouse plans
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:56:13 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Where can I get hold of some plans for building my own greenhouse?  What  
companies can I contact who either sell plans or materials for building  
greenhouses?

Thanks in advance,

Steve
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: If you could only plant one thing
Date: 21 Jan 1993 18:00:05 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu
Keywords: collard greens are nice too

a contributor asks an easy question:
>If you happened to live in a virtual-zone 4 place, with cruddy soil
>(but willing to amend it to some degree) with sunny and shady parts,
>what would you grow?

mark breland incorrectly responds:
> Why...peppers of course!  ;)

kristen mcquillin compounds the error:
> Not me, I'd plant thyme. I love the scent and use it in food, soap,
> and other herbal things.

mark and kristen have obviously forgotten about okra -- if you can 
only grow one thing, then okra just has to be it -- you may need a 
mini greenhouse over that cold zone 4 clay, but no expense is too 
great for fresh okra

kristen continues:
> If I could plant two things, the second would be lavender.

oops, kristen has overlooked the clear choice: black-eyed peas 
(to stew with the okra, or course)

--
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
langston>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Subject: Re: Root-knot Nematode in Florida
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 28 Jan 93 08:24:53 CST

In article <9301272103.AA14889@sps070.lds.loral.com>, charlie_hall@lds.loral.com (Charlie Hall) writes:
|> I recently pulled the last of my tomato plants and noticed that the
|> roots were very badly knotted.  I believe the cause may be the
|> infamous root-knot nematode.  A popular method for reducing the
|> damage caused by this pest is to use Vapam.  A friend told me
|> that his garden supplier indicated that Vapam is no longer on
|> the market.
|> 
|> I have not used Vapam in a couple of years, and have instead used
|> the "clear plastic heating in the hot sun" method which is certainly
|> more environmentally sound than Vapam.  It appears to me that the
|> pest has been building up over the last years, and that the clear
|> plastic may not be working completely.
|> 
|> Can anyone offer a solution, ideally one that I can live with
|> environmentally?  Thanks in advance.
|> --
|> Charlie Hall                    OFFICE:    (813)378-6957
|> Loral Data Systems              FAX:       (813)378-6787
|> P.O. Box 3041                   INTERNET:  charlie_hall@lds.loral.com
|> Sarasota, FL    34240

Try using composted cow manure as your primary source of nitrogen
worked into the soil each time you plant something in the cool half
of the year.  This may encourage fungi which prey on nematodes.  

In the warm half of the year you will not be able to use cow
manure that heavily without burning your plants because it
will decompose too fast.   I don't remember the rate I used
in Tallahassee in midsummer but it was enough to supply
only a fraction of the nitrogen needs of a two month crop.

I still had some root knot nematodes when I used manure but
they weren't as damaging and the plants grew a lot better.
From: samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Edible Flowers
Date: 25 Jan 93 11:31:20 +1100
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia

Zucchini flowers are edible. There's a recipe in Diane Seed's 'Top 100
Pasta Sauces' book.

Samantha Lane
samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Landtech products followup
Date: 24 Jan 93 19:08:11 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

hlm@phx.mcd.mot.com (Heather Magill) writes:

 > Well, the salesman was true to his word and sent me some information
 > on the landtech products.  Here's a quickie summary for those
 > interested parties.

                           [MUCH TEXT DELETED]

 > Too bad they have to use peat moss.  Could anyone explain what
 > EDDHA Chelate is?  I couldn't find it in my reference books.
 > As far as the Activated Iron Plus containing concentrate iron 
 > mine tailings, I always thought arsenic and other nasties 
 > were often concentrated in mine tailings?

On page 97 in the book _An ACRES U.S.A. Primer_ by Charles Walters, Jr.
and C.J. Fenzau (Library of Congress 79-50540) is a brief discussion of
the chelating agent EDTA, or Ethylene Diamine Tetra-Acetic acid.

Could this be what is meant by EDDHA Chelate?
From: wondering
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Q: Cost of starting seeds indoors
Keywords: seeds, light table
Date: 24 Jan 93 20:11:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: srvr1.1jut5tINNirr
Reply-To: rec.gardens
Distribution: world
Organization: TheNews
NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.211.208.94

I'm planning on building a light table this winter to start my seeds indoors
before transplanting them in the spring.  

Could someone tell me the approximate cost in increased electric bills for
running a light table (say the size of a card table) per month.

I realize that this depends on the wattage of my lights and how long per day
the lights are on, but I'm not even sure what would be a good level for these. 
If you have some thoughts on this too, I'd appreciate it.  Please post
responses.

Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much)
Subject: Re: Where will citrus prosper?
Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 01:02:08 GMT

In article <1k5ni5INNma5@aludra.usc.edu>, rmurphy@usc.edu (Bob Murphy) writes:
>|> I will soon be moving to Columbia, South Carolina.
>|> I love oranges, lemons, and grapefruit and am curious whether
>|> these trees will grow well in this area.

I suspect Columbia isn't too different from Houston in climate.  If
so, you are likely to lose most citrus fruit most winters.  Citrus
doesn't like to freeze.  But if Louis XIV could grow oranges in big
tubs on the terrace and wheel them into l'Orangerie (big barn with
French doors) at Versailles, you can too.  One citrus fruit that can
take some temperatures in the 20s is Satsuma, a mandarin orange (like
a tangerine).  In Houston, trees bore quite regularly if protected
from weather below 25o F.  Satsumas are attractive small trees, and
the fruit is very tasty.  I'm thinking about trying one in N.
California (near Stanford U); has anyone had experience with them
here?  Pest problems?  We got some whitefly in Houston, but could
usually keep it in bounds with Safer soap spray.

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Kathleen Much, Editor		|E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU
CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.	|Phone: (415) 321-2052
Stanford, CA  94305		|Fax: (415) 321-1192
From: Val.Gillman@altern8.mi.org (Val Gillman)
Sender: FredMail@altern8.mi.org