HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Code for Minimum Window Height?
Date: 19 Aug 92 13:30:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbfsb.1992Aug19.133029.15538
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

Hello -
	I am adding a shed dormer to enlarge an attic room.  The outside
wall of the dormer will only be 6'6" high.  I want to match the window 
size to the rest of the windows on the second floor, but this means 
the bottom of the window will be only 2' off the floor.  All my downstairs
windows are only 2' off the floor, but I'm afraid this could be a problem 
on the second story.  I've tried to call the building inspector for over a week 
and he doesn't return my calls.  My project is scheduled to start this Sat., 
and I need to know !!!! I know code may differ from city to city, but I'm just
looking for some general comments.  Any assistance would be appreciated.
				Thanks,
					Teresa

Please reply to: teresa@ihlpm.ATT.COM
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dsr@philabs.philips.com (Deborah S. Rech)
Subject: Painting Aluminum Siding 
Originator: dsr@bubba
Reply-To: dsr@philabs.philips.com (Deborah S. Rech)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:26:25 GMT



We have aluminum siding on our house that the previous owners installed about
20 years ago.  The western side of the house is now looking very weatherbeaten,
plus a sloppy window installer has gotten white caulking on the siding.  

We are looking into ways to improve the appearance of the house without 
investing lots of money.  Several people have suggested painting the siding.
We're reluctant to do this without more data on the benefits and hazards.
Does anyone have any experience with this?  What type of prep and paint would
be best for the job?  

Thanks for your help.

Debby
From: scholl@uvmark.uucp (Kathryn Scholl)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: wall paper on plaster walls with cracks
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:26:22 GMT
Organization: Vmark Software, Inc.

In article stellay@informix.com (Stella Yan) writes:
>
>I have a 50 year old house which has plaster interior walls.  There
>are many cracks, some big, some small, appearing here and there probably
>We patched them and painted them, but they reappear after a while.  I have 
>once read in some newspaper column that if you have plaster walls, 
>you just have to learn to live with cracks, or you have to keep re-patching 
>often. 
>
>I am thinking about repairing the cracks and then hang wall paper, so I don't 
>Or will the cracks stretch the wall paper to create creases or lines?
>

A friend of mine did this and after "awhile"...(year maybe?), the crack
under the wall paper made the paper look like a long bubble.
(This is one of the reasons I avoid wallpaper...first installation if fine,
but I don't like the maintenance so much.)


QUESTION:  What *IS* the best way to repair cracks in plaster walls?
Just joint compound recracks, so should the compound/tape/compound trick
be used like when putting up plasterboard?

And is it wise to install lighting (i.e. sconces) on the wall?  I'm concerned
that if you break the wall to install the sconce, it may crack around the
hole.  (Unless there is some trick with a jigsaw that will prevent this.)

Thanks also,
Kathryn
-- 
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Kathryn Scholl  ** Above text reflects opinions of the author, not VMark **
 Vmark Software, Inc., 30 Speen Street, Framingham, MA  01701, USA
 Internet: uvmark!scholl@merk.com, UUCP: uunet!merk.com!uvmark!scholl
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cnmne@plex-1.ann-arbor.mi.us (Chris Ellinger)
Subject: Re: Need Info on Compact Fluorescents
Organization: Plex-1, Michigan's Public Access Usenet Gateway  (Ann Arbor).
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:45:39 GMT

In article <25860027@hpcvra.cv.hp.com> susanw@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Susan Wechsler) writes:
>I am looking to eventually replace my incandescent bulbs with compact
>fluorescents.  But, I do not care for the typically 'stark' light one
>gets from fluorescent light.  I am looking for information comparing
>compact fluorescents available from the various vendors, and rating them
>according to how well they duplicate the color and warmth of 
>incandescent bulbs.  I welcome information from personal experience and
>experimentation, as well as any pointers to an existing FAQ string on
>the subject.  I remember seeing a fairly lengthy discussion of this awhile
>back, but unfortunately I didn't archive it since it didn't seem relevant
>at the time.  Thanks for any help I can get.
>

I've just installed fluorescent fixtures under our kitchen cabinets, and 
"compact replacement" fluorescents in a hanging fixture in the breakfast 
nook and in the basement overhead sockets.  All lamps are the "rare-earth" 
phosphor type designed to simulate incandescents and have a color 
temperature of approximately 2700K (Philips "2700K Ultralume").  The 
replacement unit is a 22W circular tube, and the others are 13W straight 
tubes.  I'm very satisfied with the quality and quantity of light from 
these fixtures.  The 22W unit puts out more light than an incandescent 
fixture with four 50W lamps.  The light is not quite the same as 
incandescent -- it is slightly cooler and somewhat "different" -- but 
renders colors and flesh tones well.  They flicker once or twice when 
started cold, but do not hum or produce radio/television interference.

Chris Ellinger
Ann Arbor, MI
From: egreen@East.Sun.COM (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars.
Date: 20 Aug 92 14:52:47 GMT
Reply-To: egreen@East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 28860@informix.com, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>
>Well, I'm no lawyer, but my understanding is that, should you kill such
>person, you could be charged with manslaugter or whatever.  It would be
>up to you and your lawyer to convince the jury that you acted in 
>self-defence.  I find it very hard to believe that charges would not be
>brought against you.  Generally, the police do not look favorably on
>people taking justice into their own hands.

I'd say it depends almost entirely on where you live.  In many parts of
the country, you would certainly not be arrested, and probably never
charged with anything.  If the body were ID'd and found to have a
criminal record, you might get a public service award.

OTOH, if you live in Santa Cruz, you would almost certainly be jailed
and tried for politically inappropriate behavior, if none of the other
charges stick.

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: gt@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM (George Tatge)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 16:05:52 GMT
Subject: Hydrofracting?
Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Anybody have any experience with hydrofracting of wells.  Mine's
down to a trickle so I'm weighing this as one option.

thanks- 

gt

Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:10702 misc.legal:15951
From: carlp@frigg.isc-br.com (Carl Paukstis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.legal
Subject: Re: Burglars and dogs and snakes, oh my!
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:21:42 GMT
Organization: ISC-Bunker Ramo, An Olivetti Company

In article <1992Aug4.070741.15830@Athena.dal.fsd.mot.com> jerryc@Athena.dal.fsd.mot.com (Jerry Culp) writes:
>In article <1992Aug3.013403.8500@isc-br.isc-br.com> carlp@frigg.isc-br.com (Carl Paukstis) writes:
>>In article <1992Jul31.180644.10568@talon.ucs.orst.edu> crowede@ucs.orst.edu (Debra Crowe) writes:

>>>p.s. The County Sheriff who responded to my 911 call told me the same thing 
>>>shoot to kill and make sure they're on your property, (i.e. drag them back to
>>>a window or doorway). >

>>While I agree with the substance of Debra's opinion, this advice of
>>the Sheriff is something that is repeated so often, and is so
>>completely and dangerously WRONG, that someone (Clayton?) should have
>>a stock text to use for followup whenever it's posted.

>	[text detailing why not to drag them back in deleted]

Jerry, yank that deleted text back.  Now re-read it.  Now explain why
you wrote the following, which completely misses the point of what I said.

>The answer to all of this is to simply tell the police that the last thing
>the now dead burglar said before you shot him was "I'm going to kill you".
>As far as I know, this will keep you from being prosecuted as long as you 
>stick to this and there were not any witness to contradict you.

Like I said in the deleted part: If none of the several levels of
officials who get involved in this sort of thing is a jerk, you'll be
OK.  If ANY of them ARE, you're in deep yogurt, no matter what you
say.  THEY WILL PROVIDE witnesses agianst you who will testify that
you materially altered evidence of the crime, and therefore any
statement you make about the burglar's (robber's, actually) words or
intent are highly suspect.

DON'T DRAG 'EM ANYWHERE!  Do what you have to, and tell the truth.
It may not set you free, but at least it won't get you in any deeper
than you already are.  Read _In The Gravest Extreme_, by Massad Ayoob.
--
Carl Paukstis, RRR&RSG           | "Good men must not obey the laws too well"
 ISC-Bunker Ramo / Spokane, WA   |    -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
 Phone: +1 509 927-5439          |  
 Mail: carlp@frigg.isc-br.com    |  My employer accepts no responsibility...
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shooting wild pigs
Date: 22 Aug 92 00:57:20 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

In article <BtAntv.GyM@news.cso.uiuc.edu> tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan) writes:
>
>In article <1992Aug18.155205.8672@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug18.003922.10051@michael.apple.com> ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:
>>
>>>I'd go for a compound bow rather than a crossbow just for the 
>>>second shot capability... I've had a pig charge me, I'd not want
>>>the experience with an empty crossbow ... 
>>
>>You could do what the Italians did in the 15th century. Use three crossbows
>>and two loaders for the archer. Swap bows for the second shot.
>
>Or just shoot the pig from the branches of a nice tall tree, or from the
>driver's seat of a '73 Chrysler. ;-)

no No NO!  California has, for some reason that completely escapes me,
made it a violation of the same F&G laws to nock an arrow while in a car.

Pg. 8:  354. (i)  No person may nock or fit the notch in the end of an
arrow to a bowstring or crossbow string in a ready-to-fire position
while in or on any vehicle.

YOU CANNOT SHOOT ANYTHING FROM A VEHICLE!  Even being in a position
to be ready to fire, but not actually firing, is illegal.  Guns, 
bows, crossbows, etc. cannot be used from a vehicle.  I know you had
a smiley face, but this is something that needs to be kept clear.

So go climb a tree, but don't nock up any arrows in the car!! ;-)

-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com (Kenneth Staffan (x37507))
Subject: Re: Lead Paint in Houses:  What to do
Keywords: lead, pollution
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Distribution: us 
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 13:59:48 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.224715.8776@csus.edu> suzanne@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu (Suzanne McCaffrey) writes:
>the principal concern regarding lead paint & houses, is that when the
>paint becomes old and starts to flake, especially around windows and
>doors, this paint is then possibly ingested by the unwary - children.

Yes, flakes can possibly be eaten by children, etc.  However, the harder-
to-detect symptom around doors and windows is the dust that results from steady
wear.  This isn't typically ingested directly, but can be inhaled, get
on hands (and subsequently food), etc.

>lead will remain in the body system, accumulates with lead ingested from
>old leaded gasoline fumes etc, and cumulatively starts its deleterious
>effects on the body.
>
>otherwise, lead at this level of use has very little effect on life.

The studies I have read (sorry, don't have any citations to pass on) indicate
that very low levels can cause developmental impairment in young children
(in addition to all the known bad affects on adults).

Ken
---
staffan@serum.kodak.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Renovators Supply
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 15:24:59 GMT
Keywords: fixtures

In article <1992Aug17.121637.20616@sei.cmu.edu> ljc@sei.cmu.edu (Larry Crowe) writes:
>
>I'am lookin at purchasing some fixtures from Renovator Supply out of
>Millers Falls,Massachusetts.There a mail order outfit that deals in
>older lookin bath fixtures,pedestal sinks,basins etc.Can anyone recommend
>the quality of there products.Its one of those deals were the price is right
>but is the quailty?

For whatever it's worth -
They have an outlet store in Flemington, NJ. I dropped in once and all
the stuff I looked at appeared to be well made. It looked as good as the
photos in their catalogue. Were I restoring a victorian, I wouldn't
hesitate to buy from them.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |            - The 90/90 Rule -
George Patterson -  | The first 90% of the work takes 10% of the time.
                    | The last 10% of the work takes the remaining 90%
                    |   of the time.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: zlyj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Neils)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shooting wild pigs
Date: 14 Aug 92 08:40:31 EDT
Distribution: misc
Organization: Cornell University

In article <1992Aug13.205854.13580@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu>,
21329KAD@MSU (Kim Dyer) writes: 
>>>> will assure you that if you discharge a firearm in order to shoot the
>>>> pig he will arrest you.
> 
> <<<long and detailed description of  Fish and Game hunting regulations
> deleted for brevitity>>>
> 
> I suspect that the problem the original poster would have with the law
> isn't with the FIsh and Game people, but rather with the local government
> which probably has laws against discharging a firearm within city
> limits.  Perhaps if he went after the beastie with a bow (not something
> *I* would want to do) he would be within the law.

Thursday: dig a pit, camouflage well.
Friday  : pig falls in.
Saturday: Throw in charcoal briquets, get keg of beer, invite friends.

Repeat as often as necessary.
:)

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wood@rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
Subject: Re: Hardwood on a chipboard subfloor?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 19:01:32 GMT

   I had hardwood floors installed this Spring.  My subfloors are
covered with chipboard.  The installers saw that the layer below was
plywood, and said that the chipboard wouldn't be a problem.  I'm
not sure whether they used longer nails or not, I doubt it: it
looked like the mechanical nailer only took one size.

   The floors look great, no creaks, etc.  They did screw down the
subfloor with a screwgun, into every floor joist at about 6" spacing.

-- 
*********************************************************************************
*	Dan Wood   Motorola Inc.	*	 I said it, not Moto:      	*
*	wood@rtsg.mot.com 		*	 They think I'm working!	*
*********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: IANR009@UNLVM.UNL.EDU (D. Kirk Darnell)
Subject: Braswell Water softeners??
Organization: University of Nebraska
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 07:28:49 CST

Has anyone any experience with Braswell water softeners? Some friends of
mine had a system once in Michigan and now live in Nebraska and would like
a similar setup but have not heard of Braswell in this area.  Is it a local
company to Michigan or did they go out of business?  Any help in contacting
them would be appreciated.  Also, comments as to how they compare to your
favorite system would be helpful.  Thanks in advance....
 
 
 
 
**********************************************************************
*D. KIRK DARNELL, COMPUTER SYSTEMS ANALYST                           *
*AGRICULTURAL ECONOMICS                                              *
*UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA                                              *
*IANR009@UNLVM.UNL.EDU                                               *
*                                                                    *
* "YOUR ARE THE ONLY ONE IN THE WORLD THAT CAN USE YOUR POTENTIAL!"  *
*                            -ZIG ZIGLAR-                            *
**********************************************************************
 
 
 
 
 
 
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:10848 misc.invest.real-estate:479
From: hong@sequent.com (Hong Wong)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate
Subject: Re: building a house
Date: 14 Aug 92 23:54:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug14.235456.20887
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.


On 29 Jul 92 12:59:04 GMT, waligora@hsi.com (Robert Waligora) said:
R> Nntp-Posting-Host: hsi86.hsi.com

R> If you plan to be the contractor, and hire all of the sub contractors
R> yourself, you will probably pay more. A contractor who works with the
R> same subcontractors gets a substantial discount, and better service
R> (since they know that if they screw up they will not get the next job).
R> You won't be building another house next month, so you will be low on
R> the list of priorities for the people you hire.

   The bidding process allows you to get the same or even better price than
   the builders. This depends on how hard working you are, how good you
   are in dealing with people. Many sub contractors give you the same
   quote disregarding whether you are a builder or not. Most subs I have
   met are actually very nice people, just like you and me :-)

   As an owner/builder, you should at least save 20%. If you are good
   in working with people, negotiating with people you can save 30% or
   more. You can usually save more money by building a bigger house.

   I am at present building a house. Market value is about 145,000 and
   I estimate it will cost me $80000 (house, permit etc) + $30000 (lot).
   But it will be a much better constructed one than the spec house at
   the same price range.

   It isn't difficult to get names of the reliable subs either. Many
   of them are out looking for jobs. Go to the construction site and
   talk to those working at the houses, building supply stores. I even
   talked to those building supervisors in big project sites and many
   of them are happy to give you reference to good subs.

R> Not only will you pay more for the subcontractors you hire, but you will
R> pay retail for lumber, cabinets, floor tiles, carpets, lights, sinks,
R> fridge, stove and anything else you can think of.

   You ask and most of the building supply stores will give you contractor's
   price.I would say ten out of 9 stores will. You can also talk to your
   subs to use his/her license number to do the purchase(if you have good
   rapport with your subs, which you should, otherwise you shouldn't have
   hire that sub).

   Most builders buy material one house at a time, not much different from
   what an own/builder.

-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
   Hong W. Wong
   Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
   (503) 578-4228
From: dresser@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Debra Dresser)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Repairing fiberglass bathtubs
Date: 19 Aug 92 16:01:10 GMT
Reply-To: dresser@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Debra Dresser)
Distribution: na
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

Hello!

We have a bath/shower fiberglass stall that has a couple of small holes
in the fiberglass coating.  Any one have any ideas on how to patch these
holes/cracks?

Thanks!

Debbie
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bullock@watson.bms.com (JOAN BULLOCK)
Subject: Re: Help! Washing Machine Spews out Flakes
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: Bristol Myers Squibb Pharmaceutical Research Institute
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:11:00 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.151004.7923@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.uucp 
(24224-guthrie) writes...
> 
>Seriously, Sears is not a manufacturer. They are a retailer. They farm
>out the manufacturing rights to "their" products. Not only is the
>quality suspect (after all, you're dealing with the lowest bidder here),
>but there's no continuity of manufacturer. Just because you got a real
>good Kenmore appliance 10 years ago is no indication of the quality of
>that appliance today. The manufacturer will be different.
> 
>Personally, I sometimes buy Craftsman tools like sockets and wrenches
>(not carpentry tools), but I avoid Sears house brands for anything else.


Actually, it is usually pretty easy to determine which manufacturer currently
holds a Sears contract.  _Consumer Reports_ articles indicate which 
manufacturer and model is equivalent to the Sears models they have tested. 

Then it is easy to judge whether the Kenmore or Craftsman is a "good buy".


Joan Bullock
bullock@bms.com

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sullivan@alw.nih.gov (Jim Sullivan)
Subject: Putting a Fence in Asphalt
Organization: National Inst. of Health, DCRT, CSL
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 17:24:49 GMT

I have a large driveway that widens at the bottom into my 
backyard.  I'd like to put a fence about 4 feet onto the driveway
and also have some kind of curb where the fence is.  I plan
to then fill in a few inches of dirt on the yard side of the 
new fence (i.e on top of asphalt) and plant grass.  

				YARD
		|
	House	|
		|
		|****existing*fence******	YARD
----------------|///////////////////////*
 sidewalk	 ///////////////////////*
----------------|###proposed#new#fence###______________	
		|///////////////////////|
		|///////////////////////|
----------------////////////////////////|
////////////////////////////////////////|
////////////////////////////////////////|  
///////////Asphalt driveway/////////////|   Double
////////////////////////////////////////|   Garage
////////////////////////////////////////|
----------------|///////////////////////|
		|///////////////////////|
		|-----------------------|______________

The question is:  What can I use to make a nice secure curb
and how do I anchor the new fence.  I'd like to have a picket
fence.  Here are some ideas off the top of my head:

	-Drive large screws into the asphalt to be anchors to
	 a poured concrete curb.  Then anchor the fence to
 	 the top or sides of the curb.

	-Buy some preformed blocks similar to 6x6 wood posts
	 and use screws to anchor them to the asphalt.  Then
	 anchor the fence to the top or sides of the blocks.

	-Anchor the fence to the asphalt via anchor plates used 
	 in deck construction.  The place line of brick on the 
	 driveway side of the fence to hold back the fill dirt.

	-Since the area between the old and new fence will be
	 used mostly as a walkway to the garage, take 
	 advantage of the asphalt and lay a brick sidewalk
	 with the fence anchored to the asphalt via screws.

Critiques of these ideas and new ideas or experiences welcome.
Thanks in advance...

-- 
Jim Sullivan 		[ The future ain't what it used to be ]
National Institutes of Health
Bethesda, MD 20892
Phone: (301) 496-5362
FAX: (301) 402-2867
Internet: sullivan@alw.nih.gov
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house