HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


Okay, so I will share my two accidents.   

Both from utter stupidity.

1.  cause:  Utter stupidity and lack of blade guard on table saw.

  I had just crosscut a small length of pine, and one piece was vibrating
  over close to the saw blade as the blade was spinning down.  I reached
  over to move the piece and one finger hit the blade.  Probably one tooth
  of the blade hit my finger tip.  Cut out a nice carbide-tooth shaped piece
  of flesh, all the way to the bone.   

  I went to the hospital, they put a bandage on it.  They said it didn't
  need a stitch.   It was sore for a week, unusable for 4 weeks, only slight
  scar remains.     I was lucky.

   Cure:   Use a blade guard.

2.  cause:  Utter stupidity only.

  I had just installed a new dado blade in my tablesaw, and made a new
  wood insert for the blade.  To cut the slot in my wood insert, I was
  holding the insert with one hand and raising the blade up through the 
  insert with the other.   The CORRECT way to do this is to put the rip
  fence over the new insert, not hold it with your hand.

  The force of the dado head on the wood eventually ripped the insert
  out of my hand and threw it across the shop, and the back of one finger 
  got dragged across the blade.  Cut half-way through the nail and nail
  bed and cleaned the skin off one knuckle.   I went to the ER, but they
  just bandaged it.

  Cure:  Pay attention to the instructions for tasks like this, and think
  about what you are doing.


My theory is that I am extremely lucky to have had these two close calls.
I am now extremely wary of my machines and use all the safety devices
around.   (knock on wood, knock on wood....)
From: sjc@cs.purdue.edu (Steve Chapin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: "Rainforest Destruction Has Many Victims"
Date: 6 Jan 1993 15:14:24 -0500
Organization: Department of Computer Sciences, Purdue University
	<1993Jan6.195616.7058@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bredbeddle.cs.purdue.edu
In-reply-to: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com's message of Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:56:16 GMT

}} In article <1993Jan6.195616.7058@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:
}} 
}} Also, I have no idea how long land is good for cattle grazing. I thought I
}} was talking about farming. The land can be farmed for far less time than
}} it can be used for cattle grazing. If I recall correctly, only one or two
}} years, before the soil is too depleted for farm crops.

That is roughly all it is good for for cattle grazing, also, as once
the cattle go through, it's mostly barren.

The real problem with using this land for these purposes is the soil.
95% or more of the nutrients in a rain forest are not in the soil;
they're in the plant life.  When the forest is slashed and burned,
almost all of the nutrients are destroyed.  The "useful" soil is also
a very thin, fine layer, and is thus not good for many types of
farming.

No matter how the land is cleared (even if they harvested all the
trees), almost all the nutrients are gone.  Without those nutrients,
the land is reclaimed by plant life extremely slowly.

sjc@cs.purdue.edu                 Steve Chapin                 ...!purdue!sjc
            Hear, hear! Who's here who knows whose booze this is?

       "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of
       human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full
                 well he will never sit."  (Elton Trueblood)
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 8 Jan 93 04:00:42 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <C0E3px.CxM@fc.hp.com> scot@fc.hp.com (Scot Heath) writes:

>Can't stand it any longer, have to post.  Bear with me, if you like, for a
>condensed description of single vrs 3 phase induction motors and finally a
>rotating phase convertor.

Thanks one and all.  I understand now.  Ie: A single-phase circuit (as
in two hots) can be used as two legs of a real 3-phase, as long as you
get rid of the ground reference, and use a rotary converter to get the
third phase.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: steveo@custard.think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 6 Jan 93 14:05:37
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
	<4834@moscom.com> <1993Jan5.212034.27717@informix.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: custard.think.com
In-reply-to: davek@informix.com's message of 5 Jan 93 21:20:34 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.212034.27717@informix.com> davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:

   In article <4834@moscom.com> de@moscom.com (David Esan) writes:
    [another tale of power-tool meets flesh]

A band called the Young Adults (those in Providence RI probably have heard
of them) once wrote a song called "A Power Tool Is Not A Toy". To a kind of
pleasant Country and Western tune the words went:

'Bout a week ago Bobby Jones had him a beer for lunch.
And when he came back to work, well you know he was a little drunk.
He said, "look at the way my new skil saw rips thru this wood!".
The next thing we knew, Bobby's thumb was gone for good.

Guy next door's got a shop in his cellar, it's his pride and joy.
He loves that worksop almost as much as his wife and little boy.
But one day he didn't lock the door and little Billy started fooling around
in there.
And now the neighborhood little league team is short a player.

(chorus)
'Cuz a saw don't know the difference, between a man and a piece of pine.
One mistake is all it takes and folks just end up crying.
A million tears won't bring back your fingers,
They won't bring back your little boy.
So remember, a power tool is not a toy.

There were some hippis clearing land up north to build a commune.
And they'd been tripping on LSD al afternoon.
One of those freaks got his long hair caught in a chainsaw blade.
His mind left his body the hard way.

(chorus).

We now return you to rec.woodworking. Thanks for your indulgence.
--
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Software Engineer              	  |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
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          of list WOODWORK"
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1993 09:00:18 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re Ryobi planer.

From: David Kosenko <davek@INFORMIX.COM>
Subject: RE: Ryobi planer

RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM writes:
>I've got the equivelent plane from Delta. It works great for turning
>3/4 into 1/2 or 3/8 (and a lot of shavings). It works even better for
>cleaning up resawn boards (less shaveings more wood).
>
>I got the Delta because of it's 12" width (insted of Royobi's 10")
>
>If the 10" width isn't a problem  I think the Royobi is a better choice
>than the delta.

Care to elaborate on why you think this?  I'm real curious, as I plan on
adding a thickness planer to my collection in 93, and had planned on the
Delta.  I have some other Ryobi equipment, and have found it to be pretty
good, so I might be convinced to go with the Ryobi over the Delta, if the
reasons were compelling.

Dave

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Dave,

In all the reviews of portable planers I've read, the Ryobi 10" and Delta 12"
are both highly recommended and the choice seems to boil down to the extra
width of the Delta vs easier blade replacement for the Ryobi (the Delta seems
to have more poo; but amps vs max board width is almost the same). There both
very good machines and you won't go too far wrong with ether one.

Blade adjustment is critical for a planer to work well, unfortunately it's
also very difficult on most planers. The Delta is a bit easier to adjust than
most; but, the Ryobi is a piece of cake.

I chose the Delta because I'd hate to have a 12" board and a 10" planer; but,
I know I'd keep my blades sharper if I had the Ryobi.

If I had it to do over again I'd still get the delta 12" instead of the ryobi
10"; but, since ryobi has a new 12" planer with more poo than delta's, if I
were buying right now I'd get the ryobi 12"  (in fact I'm toying with selling
my delta and buying 12" ryobi).

                         Good luck

                         Ron Tye (all opinions my
 own)
From: ben@angelo.amd.com (Ben Chang)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Date: 6 Jan 93 00:51:42 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Santa Clara, CA



OK, OK, here's my 2 cents.

I was refinishing some stuff with differnt stains and didn't have
enough steel wool and didn't want to clean the stuff and reuse it.
I decided to tear one big piece into two.  I grabbed on with both
hands and pulled apart.  It separated but one strand of the steel
wool caught a finger and cut 1/3 through a finger.  A bandage and
a lot of cussing was all that was needed to fix the cut.


Cause: No forethought of problems of separating steel wool
Solution: use tin snips or GENTLY pick at the pieces with your
       fingers to separate it.  DO NOT USE LOTS OF FORCE or
       you'll be cussing and taping.


Ben
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Transferring chip carving designs to wood
Date: 6 Jan 93 17:54:04 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Why not use a mirror image of the design printed onto the paper and then iron the design off the paper onto the wood?  I do this with plans for balsa wood airplanes and for designs to be cut on the bandsaw.  Try to create bold dark lines if possible so enough heat-set toner is transferred to the wood.
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (re
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:37:37 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Laboratories

In article 9K0@amd.com, ben@angelo.amd.com (Ben Chang) writes:
|>In response to an article where someone's fingers get chopped off....
|>
|>I've heard that you should take the finger and put it in a glass of milk
|>or salt water then get to the hospital for surgery.  Does that sound right?

Not quite. I was told ( in a recent industrial first aid class) that
in amputation cases, the cut off body part should be kept clean and dry;
the best method being to wrap it in sterile gauze.  This assumes that you
can get the victim to a hospital in a fairly short time. 


|>
|>Just in case it does happen I suppose we should be prepared
|>

Agreed. And take a good first aid class as part of your preparation.


---
  	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
From: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use waterstone?
Date: 11 Jan 93 21:55:46 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article 28327@slcs.slb.com, weissborn@DFWVX1.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM () writes:
>In article <WOODWORK%93011023264570@IPFWVM.BITNET>, Jim Morgan 
> Currently, I have a 1000/6000 combo stone.  I am looking for 
>an 800 grit to whip some old planes into shape.  Also, what is the net-wisdom 
>on going from 1000 to 6000?  Should I also get a 1200 or some other intermediate
>grade before going to the 6000?
>

I just spent the better part of a day reshapening/honing all my chisels and planes
with a diamond stone (unknown grit but << 1000) and a 1000/6000.   As far as i can tell
that trio worked fine.  By the time i got finished with 6000 the edges were like 
mirror.  True an intermediate stone would reduce the number of strokes on the 6000
down from about 8-10 to maybe 5 but .... 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: apoyner@as.arizona.edu (Tony Poyner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (re
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:06:17 GMT
Reply-To: apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Organization: MMT Observatory, Univ.of Arizona

In article 9K0@amd.com, ben@angelo.amd.com (Ben Chang) writes:
>In response to an article where someone's fingers get chopped off....
>
>I've heard that you should take the finger and put it in a glass of milk
>or salt water then get to the hospital for surgery.  Does that sound right?
>
>Just in case it does happen I suppose we should be prepared
>
>Ben


No.  You should put the finger in a baggie.  If you can get to the ER 
quickly, that is good enough.  If it is going to take a while to get there,
put the baggie w/finger into another baggie with ice.

In either case the faster you get medical attention, the better the chances
of getting it re-attached.

NOTE - I'm NOT quoting from experience!  However, this procedure was given
in one of the wood mags recently, and I made my wife memorize it.  That
way she can do the baggie-ing with two hands, rather than me trying to
do it with one.

---
Tony Poyner                               apoyner@as.arizona.edu
Multiple Mirror Telescope Observatory     Tel   (602) 621-5185
Univ. of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721        Fax   (602) 670-5740
From: mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Push Sticks
Date: 7 Jan 93 20:11:44 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: GTE Laboratories

Thought I'ld get my .02 cents worth in on push 'sticks'! For small (narrow)
parts I use a toothbrush instead of a pencil. I either slip a rubber pencil
eraser over the end or cut/file a notch in the end. The brush end is very
handy for brushing the rule markings off my fence bars, getting sawdust out
of the joint between the saw table and fence, cleaning up around the table
insert when changing blades, and of course, after woodworking snacks! Works
great at the router table too.

michael
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 5 Jan 1993 10:03:47 EST
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.OIT.UNC.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Mason/Sullivan Clocks?
              4 Jan 1993 15:33:59 GMT from
              <brooksby@BRIGHAM.NOSUBDOMAIN.NODOMAIN>

On Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:33:59 GMT Glen W Brooksby said:
>I soon found out that Mason/Sullivan has been acquired by WoodCraft.
>Apparently the acquisition in not yet complete and in the mean
>time they aren't able to sell me any plans.
   Are they still at the same phone number??
>
>I have 2 questions:
>
>        1.  Does anyone have experience with Mason/Sullivan
>        clock kits or plans?  Are they good quality?
>
   I have completed a Mason & Sullivan barometer, (get a cheap kit to see
how they were) and am in the final stages of a fancy tall clock.  Having
also assembled some Bartley kits I would rate M&S as fair/good, the worst
problem that I have found has been that what will be matching/mitered
mouldings in a kit are not cut from the same piece of stock, therefore the
profiles may be slightly different making neat and accurate miter joints
hard to achive (or am I being a perfectionist?).  I also don't think wood
selection is done as carefully as Bartley when gluing up for larger panels,
in a bookmatched burl panel for the base of the clock the center joint will
not be quite (5deg or so) vertical.  However as it has only one more coat
of oil to go it is looking really attractive and will be a very imposing
addition to our front hallway.
  Now as I was telling my wife after finding an uncleaned up glue joint,
"The older you get the more prononuced your inherant traits become so maybe
I am getting to be more and more of a perfectionist!".  Her response was
"I sure hope you finish the bathroom restoration before you get too old
because if you don't it will never be completed!"

   Happy New Year to you'all ....
>        does anyone have a set of plans from them that they are
>        willing to part with?  Or can anyone refer me to a good
>        source of plans?  I'm looking for small wall clocks like
>        the Mason/Sullivan Newbury Wall Clock.  I'm NOT looking for
>        floor clocks.
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Glen B.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu (Michael C Merrifield)
Subject: Re: squiblet flurbigator
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:01:08 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.232018.16078@hubcap.clemson.edu>, walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III) writes:
> 
> Anyway, what I really wanted to post about was this stuff about Delta using
> "cast platinum-rhodium" flywheels in their flurbigators.  Give me a break!
> They're actually forged aluminum with platinum-rhodium plating!
> 
It seems to me that the flywheel should be made out of cold rolled
bolognium (UNS No. B94104 with a Brinell hardness of 75).
This is an extremely versatile material.

Mike

    **********************************************************
    * Michael Merrifield     merrifie@cidmac.ecn.purdue.edu  *
    * Purdue  University     C A D L A B -- (317) 49 -45944  *
    **********************************************************
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (response to...)]
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:35:02 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: LLNL

In article <C0FxtF.9K0@amd.com>, ben@angelo.amd.com (Ben Chang) writes:
> 
> In response to an article where someone's fingers get chopped off....
> 
> I've heard that you should take the finger and put it in a glass of milk
> or salt water then get to the hospital for surgery.  Does that sound right?
> 
> Just in case it does happen I suppose we should be prepared
> 
> Ben
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pauld@mail.boi.hp.com (paulPaul Davis)
Subject: Good experience mail-ordering wood
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 20:54:11 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I received a shipment of wood from Randle Woods yesterday, and I
was so pleased with the experience that I wanted to share it
with the net.

I saw the ad in the January issue of American Woodworker, in the
classified, under "Wood."  Randle Woods was offering 100 lbs of
figured western big-leaf maple shorts for $100, delivered.  I 
called and spoke to Bruce, who seemed delighted to hear what
I wanted to use the wood for (resawn, book-matched panels in
frame-and-panel cabinet doors), and promised to seek out a good
variety of figure in pieces with minimum size of 8/4 5 X 24.

The shipment arrived by UPS in two bundles and took six days.
There were eleven pieces, with the smallest 5 X 25 and the largest
7 X 44.  There was also a 13 X 25 and a 12 X 29.  There was one
12/4, and the true width of the rest was between 1 7/8 and 2 1/4.
Three planks had a quilted pattern, one was heavily spalted, and 
the rest had a curly pattern.  The wood is kiln-dried to 8-12%
and S2S or S3S.

The shipment totaled out to 38.3 board feet, which means my
cost was $2.61/bd.ft., delivered.  That's substantially less
than the local cost of no-figure 4/4 eastern hard-rock maple.
Western maple is softer and lighter than eastern and tends to be 
more reddish-brown-amber than the cream-and-brown of eastern maple.
It's going to work great for these panels, I think.

Bruce says he's got plenty of these kind of shorts, and this isn't
a one-time special.  Randle Woods is in Washington state, near
Mt. Rainier.  I have no affiliation with them; I just like to
promote helpful businessmen with good prices and good products.

Paul Davis
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
X-Delivery-Notice:  SMTP MAIL FROM does not correspond to sender.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 5 Jan 1993 14:37:54 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Where's Norm? (in NYC)

Speaking of Norm, I haven't been able to find NYW this season in NY (the only
PBS station I can get is WNET - channel 13). Does anyone know if or when
WNET still carries it? Another favorite, Victory Garden, has also vanished from
the airwaves, but that's for another list...
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Cutting pressure-treated wood (was Re: Power Switch on RAS ???)
Date: 12 Jan 93 13:33:27 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

In general, cutting any wet wood can cause blade-binding problems.  The inherent climbing cut  problem of a RAS is only enhanced by the wetness.  Those carpenters who build outside decks are quite familiar with blade-binding caused by wet wood,  but they generally tend to use hand-held circular saws or power-miter saws where the effect is not quite the same due to a different cutting orientation.  I have seen blades from different manufacturers that are specifically designed to cut PT lumber.  These blades


 usually have some type of coating (such as teflon) to reduce binding as well as a specific tooth design.  Maybe a blade with anti-kickback shoulders such as those on Freud blades would help on the RAS???
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re:      Re: Mail Order Wood (ARGH!)
Summary: 
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 17:37:41 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

I've had good luck from Constantines in NY. They are 
a little more expensive but the wood I've received is 
great.
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
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