HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: 01mbmccabe@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [ALL]Ancient Powerfilter Help
Date: 14 Oct 92 06:37:26 GMT
Distribution: rec

In article <1992Oct13.135023.15356@vax5.cit.cornell.edu>, awhj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Fredericks) writes:
> In article <1992Oct12.214059.10469@bsu-ucs.uucp>,
> 01mbmccabe@bsu-ucs.uucp writes: 
>> Does anyone remember the Dynaflow series of power filters?  I have aquaried an
>> old Dynaflow 3 (the large(r) size perhaps?) and bought the closest fitting
>> filter cartridge I could find.  I'm fairly confident it's the wrong one, as
>> water flows over it (media too dense?) and it is tapered at the bottom so water
>> is allowed to flow around it too (but not too much).  Has anyone seen
>> proper-fitting cartridges for sale as of late?  I've seen some for sale for the
>> Dynaflow 150, but these are definately too small.  I'd guess these are for a
>> different series of Dynaflow.   Anywho....any comments would be appreciated.
>> 
>> 				-Matt McCabe
>> 				 Ball State Univ.
>> 
>> P.S.  Also, what about a replacement impeller motor.  I've never seen anything
>> but Whisper brand replacements for sale.  Definately not compatible.
> 
> Why bother with cartridges at all?  Just use bulk filter floss like in the old
> days.  Buy a bag of 100% Dacron polyester fiber pillow stuffing (identical to
> filter floss but usually cheaper.)  Grab a hunk and spread it out in the box
> a couple of inches thick.  Away you go.  As for impellers (you said impeller
> motors, I'm assuming you meant impeller,) I don't know of any sources.  Keep
> your eyes open for dynaflows at garage sales, etc as the impeller in all models
> (I believe) is the same.
> 
>   - Tom Fredericks
>     Ithaca, New York


Thanks for the tip aboutmotors...  Also I've already tried the stuff it myself
method..   The floss floats right up and over the water return and into the
tank.  I'ven been trying to think of some way to jimmy it, but can't seem to
come up with anything.     Oh well...any other ideas? 

		Thanks agin,
			Matt McCabe
From: aphilip@cbnews.cb.att.com (ashwin.k.philip)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][All]New Technology
Summary: Adey's automated system
Date: 16 Oct 92 20:23:14 GMT
Organization: AT&T

In article <Bw6JwE.Kzv@ra.nrl.navy.mil>, tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:
> In article <1992Oct15.140318.10625@bsu-ucs.uucp= 01mbmccabe@bsu-ucs.uucp writes:
> =I can't (off-hand....there's still more looking to do!) seem to find the
> =srticle I was talking about, but did manage to run across another one that I
> =hadn't even read before in Freshwater and Marine Aquarium, Aug.1992.  Page 120
> =starts the article "A tour of the Tunze System."  Wich from a glance sounds
> =like a similar, but not as copmplete as the other I was thinking of.  
> =
> =Anyway, I think I may have read about this other one in the library...I go
> =there and check again.....more updates to come.
> 
> 	I believe you are talking about the article in the Oct issuse of
> FAMA.  It's Adbay's (sp?) algea scrubber live rock culturing system.
> 
> -Anthony

I ordered the book and 2 video tapes ($90!) and will post about them when
I get them... I am also going to check out his system in DC.
-- 
Ashwin K. Philip_________________________________Email:  philip@mink.mt.att.com
Software Engineer________________________________AT&T Bell Labs, Middletown, NJ
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wissler@stsci.edu (Steven Wissler,G12,4899,ADD.1-29-91)
Subject: Re: [M] [R] Live Rock - your recommendations?
Originator: wissler@homer.stsci.edu
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 11:57:02 GMT

From article <1992Oct8.180509.28783@aimla.com>, by walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt):
> 
> 
> 	BTW: Can anyone tell me what kind of creature I might have in my rock
> that sits in a hole with many (10-20?) threadlike filaments stuck out radially
> from the hole? There is no main body (that I can see - the holes are very
> small), just these radial filaments. I got a ton of them. They don't seem to
> hurt anything, but they have me curious.
> 
>	These are spagetti worms. They use the filaments to bring food
 	to there mouth. They are harmless.

					Steve Wissler
					wissler@stsci.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Brine shrimp breeding?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 05:31:36 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.042055.23979@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu> weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley) writes:
>	I have been considering starting to raise brine shrimp
>for feeding purposes. I want to be able to set up a small (2.5
>gallon) tank to raise and possible breed brine shrimp. I want to ....
>...	I would be doing this to feed a 20gal tank of mostly
>tetras for now. It might be more expensive than flake but I

You can't do it in the quantity you want in the volume you are using.

Last week I posted a summary of descriptions of live foods one can culture
at home..  Don't people read the things posted here before asking
questions?
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M]Protein Skimmers
Date: 15 Oct 92 15:46:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: ra.Bw66HB.HLu
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC

In article <1992Oct14.172826.4551@bb1t.monsanto.com= jjschm@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
=skills stink.  The water would enter and be repeatedly skimmed, essentially
=becoming cleaner at each step.  This could be built as one unit and wouldn't
=require alot of vertical space.  The scum at each step could be pooled into one
=drain, perhaps as a slanted top that drained into a catch tray.  

	Why would you want to skim clean water?  It would make more sense if
you have multiple individual skimmers skimming dirty water.

-Anthony
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Boret Heaters
Date: 14 Oct 92 23:39:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: gvgspd.2066
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <15967@umd5.umd.edu> mwerling@snoopy.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling) writes:
>In article <BvsBus.HMF@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>>Along a related note, does anybody know where to buy <25w heaters?  My
>>wife loves bettas and I can't have them in my tanks, and winter is
>>comming.  I've heard that a 25W is about 5 times too big for a 2 gallon
>>tank.  So, where are the microheaters?
>>Frank Fujita
>
>
>I use an incandescant(sp?) light bulb.  It keeps the water warm, but the only
>way of controlling the temp. is by moving the light a distance away.

How about putting two heaters in series? One would be set to a high
temperature trip point, and the other would be the 'master' for
control. With two equal heating elements in series the power will
be halved. So for 25W use two 50W heaters, etc.

A cheaper solution may be to use a similar wattage bulb in series with
a standard aquarium heater. (Would made a very clear "heat ON"
indicator!). Anyone try this yet??

An electronic lamp dimmer could also be used to reduce the power
from a standard light bulb. It would be easier to control than
moving the bulb physically. Remember though, it is an open loop
system, unlike a thermostat, and so it won't compensate for local
room temperature changes.

++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
From: THOMASG@epx.cis.umn.edu (ThomasD.Gasser)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Metal Halide Lights
Date: 7 Oct 92 16:40:54 GMT
Organization: Department of Neurosurgery, University of Minnesota

In article <161@trident.datasys.swri.edu> mark@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Mark D. Collier) writes:
>Subject: Metal Halide Lights
>From: mark@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Mark D. Collier)
>Date: 6 Oct 92 18:10:53 GMT
>I am considering alternatives for a high performance lighting system
>for my reef-tank-to-be. I am trying to decide how much light is really
>necessary for a 160 gallon reef tank and which approach is the best.
>I would like to buy metal halide pendant lights, but they are awfully
>expensive. I am also considering construction of a custom hood with
>florescent/actinic lights, but really do not know the required wattage.
>
>Anyone care to share how they provide light for their reef tanks? Any
>one know of any reasonable sources of metal halide lights? I will
>summarize if I get enough responses.
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Mark D. Collier                      Southwest Research Institute
>Senior Research Analyst              Automation and Data Systems Division
>Voice: (512) 522-3437                Data Systems Department
>FAX:   (512) 522-5499                Software Engineering Section
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In my 130 reef I have gone the florescent route.  I have used an electronic 
ballast called the ICECAP.  It can handle VHOs.  Today I have 2 6' VHO 
Aquasuns and 4 4' Actinic 03's (40 watts).  My total lighting is 480 watts.

I was able to use my existing hood and the total cost was in the $250 range.
I plan to add another 4 6' VHO in the future and replace the 4' actinics.

It is not too much more costly to built a four lamp system then the two 
lamp setup.  Based on having to replace the Aquasuns yearly and the 
Actinics every 9 months it is cheaper to go this way then Mh.

Good luck

 


*********************************************************************
*  Thomas D. Gasser                                                 *
*  Department of Neurosurgery                *******     ******     *
*  University of Minnesota                    ***  *** *** ***      *
*  (612) 624-4427                             ***   *****  ***      *
*  E-Mail:  THOMASG@EPX.CIS.UMN.EDU          *****        *****     *
*                                                                   *
*********************************************************************
From: wood-smithc@vaxb.gbus.virginia.edu (Chrissi Wood-Smith)
Subject: Re: Other fish suggestions for a DISCUS tank
Keywords: Discus
Organization: Darden Center, University of Virginia
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 17:38:38 GMT

In article <BvtF88.2Fx@space.physics.uiowa.edu> dyson@sunfish.physics.uiowa.edu (Richard L. Dyson) writes:
>From: dyson@sunfish.physics.uiowa.edu (Richard L. Dyson)
>Subject: Other fish suggestions for a DISCUS tank
>Keywords: Discus
>Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:26:32 GMT

>I have a pair of discus which are by themselves in their tank and I
>would like to add some other fish (just a couple) to help compliment and

>had tried a regular Kohli Loach, (at a fish store employee's suggestion)
>and he died in a couple days.  Dont' really know why, so I don't know if
>it would be worthwhile to replace it or not...

I have a 37 gal discus tank with 2 4" discus and a 2" baby discus living in 
it.  I have 3 Kohli loaches and 3 itty bitty frogs.  My discus tend to hide, 
which bugs me, but I figure as they get older they won't be so shy.  
Supposedly they really wig out if you put other fish with  them, though I 
have heard people suggest Angels.  My angels are in a 55 gal.  I was afraid 
to upset the discus -- I haven't had much experience with this fish, but I'
ve researched my butt off!!

I'd try some loaches or Pleco (though the common ones are exceedingly ugly). 
I saw a zebra pleco and  a gold spotted one at the pet store yesterday (they 
were like 40 or 50 bucks and only two inches long!!)  They were really cool 
looking.  If you have a couple Kohlis they play together. Mine swin laps 
areoung the tank all day long (dumb fish)!!

Good luck 
Chrissi
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Question about people who have questions about algae problems [F]
Date: 13 Oct 92 21:02:19 GMT
Organization: Commodore

In article <17767@autodesk.COM> drake@Autodesk.COM (Dan Drake) writes:
>raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design) writes:
>> In article   writes:
>> ... Also a large pleco will subject your
>> plant stems to quite a beating.  ...
>> Robert J. Raible              EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
>> VLSI Program Manager           or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
>> Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
>
>Ummm... I just converted from a large-variey pl*co to a bristlenose, and
>my plant stems still take an occasional severe beating.  Of course, it
>could be somebody else at fault.  But I think we may be running into
>more of the wide variation in fish behavior that causes so many
>arguments here.  I used to think that nothing less than a cat could have
>enough brains to be really idiosyncratic, but keeping fish has changed
>my mind.
>
>--
>Dan Drake
>drake@Autodesk.com

 I know what you mean - for example I have a large Jack Dempsey in a 55g
angel tank. He's a real pussycat with them contrary to conventional wisdom.
The angels only have to be careful they don't get between him and a food pellet
(they might get run over)! Keep in mind that fish tend to be sensitive to their
environment and this may account for much of the variation in behavior. In any
case a 5" bristlenose should cause less damage than a 12" H. punctatus, right?

-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Robert J. Raible		EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
VLSI Program Manager		 or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
From: 01mbmccabe@bsu-ucs.uucp
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][All]New Technology
Date: 16 Oct 92 10:45:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: bsu-ucs.1992Oct16.054527.10655

> 	I believe you are talking about the article in the Oct issuse of
> FAMA.  It's Adbay's (sp?) algea scrubber live rock culturing system.
> 
> -AnthoI think you've got it there.....saw it in the library, then....    So
has anyone else read about this system?   Sounds pretty revolutionary to the
hobby!  Some might not feel so bad abou tkeeping marine because they probably
got their live animals from their original homes in the ocean.   

			-matt
From: rader@ssec.wisc.edu (Steve Rader)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) Retrofitting hood with Metal Halide
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:07:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: daffy.1992Oct16.180709.22789
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Space Science and Engineering Center

johnmc@btree.uucp (John McCaffrey) writes:
 
|> I've got a Tru-Vu 40 gal fish-only tank that I'm planning to convert to
|> a mini-reef.  I'd like to keep the canopy I've got which was made for
|> this tank.  The canopy is 36"X15"X5" but the clearance between the top
|> of the tank and the top of the hood is 4".  Is this enough room for one
|> 175W Metal Halide fixture?

Not for a hydrofarm MH... I think you'll find most 175 MH reflectors will need
at least 5 or 6 inches height to fit, then another 4 or 12 inches to keep the
bulb reasonably above the water level.  Even with a retrofit MH kit, you'll
need about 4" just to fit the bulb... which still won't leave 'nuf room
for good light dispersion.

Later,
Steve 

#include "reef.gif"

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Steve Rader                             rader@ssec.wisc.edu
Sys Admin
Space Sci & Engineering Center          Ain't nothing in the world
University of Wisconsin, Madison        like a green skinned girl
                                        Omnibus, takes all of us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [ALL] Use of Headers in posts
From: Eric Schweitzer <ERSHC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Wednesday, 14 Oct 1992 22:20:23 EDT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

In article <1992Oct14.194932.8860@attain.icd.teradyne.com>,
brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter) says:
>
>In article <23867@alice.att.com> jj@alice.UUCP (jj, curmudgeon and all-around
>grouch) writes:
>>In article <92286.113659HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu> HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>>>PLEASE save us all time from having to sort through posts that don't
>>>pertain to an individualsaquarium keeping preferences and use [F], [M],
>>Please use (M), (F), and so on.  Some of our brain-dead  newsreaders

>Did you try escaping them? Like /\[F\]/:j in your kill file.

Many of us don't use UNIX machines, and many of us
don't have those funny square barckets ([,]) as characters on our
keyboards. (Yes, EBCDIC is alive and well on the 3090's). If you use
(F) we can read it (though I can't create a kill file). If you use
[F], the [,] come out as some real funny symbols. Creating a square bracket
for others to read requires some symbol translation.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com (K.C. Wong 253-7926)
Subject: Re: Brine shrimp breeding?
Reply-To: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 12:55:29 GMT

In article 23979@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu, weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley) writes:
>
>	I have been considering starting to raise brine shrimp
>for feeding purposes. I want to be able to set up a small (2.5
>
>					Don
> <stuff deleted>


Buy a "Sea Monkey Kit" at Toys R Us.


---- KC
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Peat
Date: 7 Oct 92 05:21:00 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct6.181217.21327@den.mmc.com> snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com (Cindy Camp) writes:
>Quick question.  My tap water is natuarally hard and I have been
>thinking of using peat to soften it up.  Can anyone give me some
>suggestions about how to use it, ie do I just put it in the tank,

Peat softens hard water by forming insoluble salts of humic acid and
calcium and magnesium.  You can either let your tap water sit for a
week in a bucket with peat moss on the bottom, or soften it by
filtering the water through peat in the filter, or by adding peat
extract to the water.

The simplest and safest method is to soften the water in the bucket.
Use a large trashcan and dump in a few inches worth of boiled
garedenning peat, boiling watter and all.  Let it settle for a week,
measuring the hardness every few days, until it's appropriate for you.
You can filter it through a sponge or even a coffee to get rid of the
fine peat dust.

OR you can put boiled garden or fiberous peat in a nylon mesh bag and place
it in the path of the water flow.  This is a gradual methot of acidifying
and softenning hard, alkaline water.

The pillow of peat (in a mesh baggie) in the filter will accomplish the goal
sooner, but you will have less control over it.

The simplest way to soften the water is top dilute it with distilled or
reverse osmosis treated water.

-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Metal Halide Lights
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 13:34:38 GMT

In article <161@trident.datasys.swri.edu> mark@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Mark D. Collier) writes:
>I am considering alternatives for a high performance lighting system
>for my reef-tank-to-be. I am trying to decide how much light is really
>necessary for a 160 gallon reef tank and which approach is the best.
>I would like to buy metal halide pendant lights, but they are awfully
>expensive. I am also considering construction of a custom hood with
>florescent/actinic lights, but really do not know the required wattage.
>
>Anyone care to share how they provide light for their reef tanks? Any
>one know of any reasonable sources of metal halide lights? I will
>summarize if I get enough responses.

I built my own hood about 18 months ago.  It is based on 3 175 watt 
Coralife type MH bulbs and 2 160watt VHO bulbs.  Basically I bought
the MH hardware from Aquarium lights, Inc.  Total cost for teh three
fixtures, ballasts, bulbs, shipping, etc. was around $300 at that time.
I built my hood so that it has the MH bulbs about 12" away from the surface
of the water.  The total hood is very tall (probably about 2 feet) but
it makes a big tank (150 gallon) look even more imposing so I kind of 
like it.  Plus I never have to move anything - I have enough room to
work underneath the lights.

If I were to do it now, I would take a very strong look at the Ultralume
Ultralux lighting (MH) which is advertised now in FAMA from a couple
of sources.  I have spoken with one of the major distributors for that
product on Fishnet and have heard nothing but good about the product.

I personally would not like pendant lights as they tend to spill a lot
of excess light into the room.  

Good luck.


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
3rd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wissler@stsci.edu (Steven Wissler)
Subject: Follow-up on anemonies from Hell
Keywords: anemonies,reef
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 14:51:56 GMT



	I had reported earlier that my 55 gallon reef tank was 
	becoming over-run by anemonies which came in on my	
	Florida live-rock. These anemonies have a long stalk,
	flat central disk and long tentacles which have flourescent
	stripes. They were reproducing and causing grief to other tank 
	inhabitants such as my Tridacna clam. I saw two reef tanks in the
	local aquarium store, one with a large number of the above 
	anemonies, and a second which had none of these anemonies and 
	this was attributed to a copper-banded butterfly (Chelmon rostratus)
	in the tank. The butterfly did not seem to be bothering any of the 
	corals in the tank, only the small anemonies. 

	I went ahead and bought a copper-banded butterfly for my reef tank.
	The butterfly within days showed signs of Cryptocaryn, some sort of
	mouth fungus and had a black patch on one of his fins. He spent
	the next 3-weeks in a hospital tank. It took alternating doses
	of Marin Oomed and Organi-cure with charcoal filtration between
	doses. He was not eating frozen foods at first, so I feed him
	live adult brine shrimp and black worms for the first few days.
	I was then able to successfully transition him to frozen brine
	shrimp and blood worms.

	After his stint in the hospital tank he was transfered to the
	reef tank.  He has continued accepting the frozn foods and has
	started taking flake food on cue from the clown fish in the tank.
	He is constantly picking at the live rock. It was not obvious
	at first that the was interested in the anemonies, but after
	about a week I noticed a decline in there numbers, and then
	observed him(her) going after them with a vengance. As of today
	the only ones I can find are all cowering in there holes in the rock.
	He has not harmed any of the other invertabretes, other than small 
	worms and such. The live rock contains several patches of hard
	corals which so-far have escaped harm. There is a large open-brain
	coral, tridacna clam and feather duster which have not been harmed
	either.

					Steve Wissler
					wissler@stsci.edu
					Space Telescope Science Institute
					Baltimore, Md.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria