HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Water changes
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 18:31:19 GMT

In <1992Aug27.224459.4496@tfs.com> luke@tfs.com (Luke Matam) writes:

>In article <1992Aug27.181939.24585@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine) writes:
>>one of my sinks.  The hose is long enough to reach all my tanks, including
>>the 20+ tanks in my basement.  To remove water from the tanks upstairs, 

>What do you and other people do with SOOOOO many tanks ? Are you are commerical
>breeder ? Are you raising / breeding to compete at fish shows.

>-- 
>-- 
>+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
>| These are my opinions and that too only at this instant in time.            |
>+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
>| Luke S Matam                                            luke@tfs.com        |

I only have 10 and I'm crazy, Steve's 20 make's him a loon, and
Oleg's 40 or 50 makes him a certified bonker.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: more DIY w/d questions
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 16:56:49 GMT

Ross Livingston (livings@unislc.uucp) wrote:
: 2) I have heard of many different (READ: Cheap) substitutes for bio-balls.
:    I was at my local pet store last night and I mentioned this to the guy
:    who was working there.  He said, 'yea, my first w/d was filled with
:    plastic plants.'  I asked him what the advantage of the bio-balls was,
:    mentioning that I guessed they had a greater area.  He said, 'No, the
:    plastic plants I used probably had up to 7 times as much area as bio-balls
:    but you just don't get the nitrogen exchange with 'fake' bio mediums.'

This was hashed out on the net about a year ago, with real
aquarists doing real pseudo-scientific experiments.  Trickle
filters DO NOT de-gas ammonia, or in any way contribute
to the removal of nitrogen compounds from your aquarium.
The "void space" is nice for oxygenating your water, but that's
about it.  I think the plastic plants idea sounds excellent.  Hair
curlers have less surface area, but lots of void space - put the
curlers on the bottom, plastic plants on top.

: 5) It seems I read somewhere how to figure out how many g/h your flow is
:    reduced by n feet of head.  Does anyone know of a way to calculate this?
:    I was planning on using an Aquaclear 802 which will have about 4.5' of
:    head on it.  Is it going to perform alright for me?  Is there another
:    alternative in the same ballpark as far as price is concerned?  How can
:    I estimate it's modified flow (taking the head into account)?

Unfortunately, the pumping power of a pump is not directly related
to the volume of water it produces.  While a powerhead (like the 802)
can move large volumes of water when there is no head, its output
drops dramatically when it has to pump uphill.  "Real" pumps, on the
other hand, show markedly less volume reduction when pumping against
a head.  So, there is no generic formula for computing the pumping
reduction vs. head.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: bruceg@Cadence.COM (Bruce Gustifson)
Subject: Re: [F] Setup for plants and fish
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 22:44:36 GMT

In article <fr!nwmd@lynx.unm.edu> denise@pprg.eece.unm.edu (Denise J. Richards) writes:
>
>                        boggs@agps.lanl.gov
> 
> 
> 
>OK, I have come to the conclusion that if I want to have plants in my tank,
>and have them do well, then I must do away with my UGF.  How do I do this?
> 
>out of my 55 gallon tank then push all the gravel to one side, remove the
>plate, then move all the gravel to the other side and remove the other plate?
> 
>What is going to happen to the bacteria living there?
> 
>Then what do I do for the substrate? I have had mail from those who use
>potting soil, sand, gravel, etc...  If you use sand, where do you get it?
>Just any old sand?  I'll be getting a load of sand for my dog run. Is this
>sand OK?  And how do you keep the sand from being siphoned up when you
>vaccuum the bottom of the aquarium?  Recommendations for how to set this up
>are welcome, encouraged, begged for!
  This is what I did when I removed a UGF from my tank. I removed all
the plants and rocks that sat on top of the gravel, then I cleaned
the gravel thouroughly with one of those siphoners/gravel cleaners.
To get it really clean I removed about 1/2 the water in the tank.
I never removed the fish. Then I just scooted enough gravel off of 
each filter plate so that when I yanked the plate up and out it didn't
break it. Pulled the plates out, smoothed out the gravel, and replaced
the rocks and stuff. Never had any problems, and wouldn't expect any
as long as the gravel is clean. Most sand will be from sea-shore, I
think and will have salt and be calciferous. It could effect your 
pH and hardness. I wouldn't go that route.

> 
> 
> 
>--Marsha
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>                     boggs@agps.lanl.gov (505) 665-6606
>Los Alamos National Laboratory, P.O. Box 1663  MS J488  Los Alamos, NM 87545
>

************************************************************************
"Would you believe it if you     |  Pepsi ad campaign in Thailand;
saw it with your own eyes?"      | Come alive with the Pepsi Generation
   Asked the woman               |    In Thai translates to:
"That depends"                   | Pepsi will raise your ancestors
    Replied I                    |	from the dead.
***********************************************************************
From: dutkowsk5111@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Orandas freak out when I turn on light
Date: 30 Aug 92 14:22:13 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Hello,
  I just bought a top with a flourescent (sp?) light in it for my 20 L 
tank.  I have some large Orandas in there and they seem to go nuts whenever I
turn it on.  I have it off now and they act normal.  What gives??
-Dave
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,ne.forsale
From: anton@HQ.Ileaf.COM (steve norton)
Subject: FOR SALE: 3 aquarium setups
Reply-To: anton@HQ.Ileaf.COM (steve norton)
Organization: interleaf, inc., waltham, ma
Distribution: ne
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 18:01:48 GMT


65 Gallon Salt setup:	65 gallon tank
			wet/dry filter
			hood, light
			stand
			$200/best offer

55 Gallon setup:	55 gallon tank
			undergravel filter
			stand
			$100/best offer

20 Gallon Salt setup:	20 gallon tank
			power filter
			hood, light
			$75/best offer


Call Sue at (508) 875-3935	(Framingham)

-- 

/steve
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: bob@hubcap.clemson.edu (Bob)
Subject: Shark Questions
Keywords: shark
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 12:43:27 GMT

     I want to apologize to the people out there who tried to help me
with my questions on sharks.  I really should not have flamed everyone
but, It was a moment of insanity because after my first message asking
for help, my mailbox filled up with messages telling me not to do it and
not explaining to me why. One post is really not enough to base an
opinion on somone but, I do deserve the return flames I got.
     After receiving some very helpful messages even after the flame I
sent out, I have decided to put off getting the shark for a little
while.  I am going to get the 30 gal tank started with some damsels and
once I get the 180 I will move them over to that and after a few months
and if they do well I will get a couple of yellow tangs.
     Contrary to what you all probably think of me, I have no desire to
kill a shark. I have admired and studied sharks for several years.  

Bob Staaf
bob@hubcap.clemson.edu 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Goldfish Feeding (was Re: Help! Swim Bladder Disease!)
Summary: He ate too much.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 22:53:23 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <Ncm-v-_@engin.umich.edu> nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan) writes:
>In article <JOANM.92Aug31075137@moe.coe.uga.edu> joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan  
>Maxfield UCNS) writes:
>> 
>> This morning I noticed one of my goldfish was having trouble getting
>(DELETED)

>If someone does know of a cure/treatment, please post it to the net as
>well as e-mailing it. 
>(DELETED)

A very common cause of swim bladder problems is over feeding of dry 
fishfood.  This is esp true of pelleted food.  I suspected this a couple 
of years ago and since I have found confirmation in AFM and at least 
one book.

What to do.

	Feed less.

		It is much easier to damage a goldfish by overfeeding
		then by starvation.

	Soak the pellets till the are soft to the center.

		Some pellets will fall apart on the outside
		while the center is still dry, Use a different
		brand or type of pellets.

	Feed small pellets.

	Do not feed the fish on the surface as it will swallow air.

		I am not sure if I buy this one but it can not hurt.
		I have found that hakari floating pellets will sink
		in soaked over night in the fridg,

	Feed food other they dry commercial foods.  

		Romain(sp) lettus leaves.  
		Hang a leaf from the lip of the tank after blanching and
		the goldfish that like them will have a field day
		tugging at the leaf (fun to watch).

		Cooked peas without the shell.
		Squeeze the meat out into a small cup and dump in tank.

		Jello like food made from boiled and blended peas,
		string beans, zukkinni(sp), and lima beans.  FGSA
		says spinach is good while other do not agree.

		Frozen fish food from your local pet store.

		Earth worms if you can get them without pesticides.


Once a goldfish has this problem it will be prone to having it again.
It is best to not feed a fish such damaged dry food.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Activated Carbon (was Re: Cannister Filter Question ?????????????????)
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 16:03:09 GMT

Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971 (bednarek@picard.med.ge.com) wrote:
: 
: I have been repeatedly told that carbon is a must to remove many of
: the chemical impurities in the water.  I have also been told that 
: activated carbon is very short lived in this respect and that in just
: hours after it is put into the filter it looses most of its purifing
: ability.

We have about 10 aquaria, none of which have activated carbon in
them.  Whatever else can be said about activated carbon, it is
not a "must" for a freshwater aquarium.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
From: CCPHIL@mizzou1.missouri.edu (Phil Leith)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: testing... did anybody see this?
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 14:56:47 CDT
Organization: University of Missouri
NNTP-Posting-Host: mizzou1.missouri.edu

I've been posting to this group for quite some time now from an nntp
server... I've seen my posts, but they don't get out to anyone else. I've
been informed that everything should be working properly now, so this is
a test to see if anyone saw this.  Flood my mailbox.  Make me happy.
 
!~~~~~~~~o~~~~~/~~~~~~~ Phil Leith, Meteorologist & Tropical Fish Hobbyist~~~~!
!        o    / \                                                             !
!         o /    \   /                                                        !
!          <  )   =-{         Bitnet     : CCPHIL@MIZZOU1.BITNET              !
!           \    /   \        Internet   : CCPHIL@MIZZOU1.MISSOURI.EDU        !
!             \ /                                                             !
!______________\______________________________________________________________!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter)
Subject: Re: Lighting: Why spend big $?
Organization: Monsanto Company
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 14:56:46 GMT

putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu) writes:
: <price stuff deleted>

: I was looking at this stuff and my girlfriend wandered over and said,
: "Hey, I can get a cheapo metal generic dual 48" fluorescent 40W fixture
: for $12 at the hardware store!"
: If I can put a couple of these in a wood hood that I make, why should
: I bother with the above prices? Is there something about the above that is
: particularly worth it?

I have found cheap hardware store ballast can burn bulbs out quickly.  I
had one that would burn out bulbs in about 30 days (standard 20000 hour
tubes).  Given the high cost of reef bulbs, I decided not to risk it.
The reef fixtures SHOULD also be designed to withstand the moist environment
of an aquarium without rusting.  Additionally, they SHOULD have better
reflectors in them to max out the light comming from those expensive bulbs.

: 
: As a second question, would 4 48" fluorescent bulbs (perhaps
: two coralife 50/50's and two tritons or blue moons) for a total
: of 160 watts be enough for live rock + anemone's? I will probably
: use my old 20Watt 36" as well for a total of 180 Watts - is this
: enough? I want to _avoid_ metal halide if possible - price seems
: quite high. Also, why isn't this in the FAQ? Perhaps a new 
: addition to the FAQ list is in order: FAQ.lighting
: IF I get enough info from people about lighting configs,
: etc., I will work do one myself. Thanks for any info!
: 

I've been using a rule-of-thumb that you should shoot for about 4watts
of light per gallon of water.  If you can do that with fluorescents, great.
(My actual goal is 10000 lux minimum, 20000-30000 preferred, but thats
another story).
--
Kevin Carpenter       Internet:  kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com
Monsanto Company      Fidonet:   1:100/215.0 (home)
St. Louis, Missouri, U.S.A.
Opinions expressed are those of the author, not the company he works for. 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: jony@microsoft.com (Jon Yeargers)
Subject: Re: Novaqua and phosphates
Date: 24 Aug 92 18:40:57 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Distribution: usa

My first post didn't make it out of here .. what do you (or the net
as a whole) recommend for water conditioners? We are having a drought
here in Seattle right now, so the city is putting 2-3x chlorine in
the water. This makes proper dechlorination a must.

BTW Ive been using Novaqua for almost a year now with no particular
problems.

Jonny Yeargers (jony)
From: gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Question about Frogs in FW Tank
Date: 31 Aug 92 01:36:07 GMT
Organization: The Dream Chasers Syndicate

I was at a local Aquarium store today and saw this FW
tank with little frogs slip sliding around the tank floor.
My question is can these frogs survive under water for
extended period of time ? I am used to seeing frogs that
stay near the edge of ponds and marshes, leading an
amphibian lifestyle. The guy, i was talking to, said that
these frogs come up to the surface every now and then.
So, is it normal to have these frogs sitting at the 
bottom of your FW tank ? or do you need special tanks ?

many thanks
d.
-- 
------
"Like a harsh neon streaking  through the velvet darkness 
the whetted knife of Life tore its path through her Dreams"
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Bicarbonate question
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:33:59 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

You are gona be in for a supprize... mollies are fertile for life!  (Right?
Or at least a long time.)  So taking the males out did nothing but
increase the chances of future fry not getting eaten. 

It sounds like your UGF has gone balistic and turned into a nitrate pump:
It is full of decaying gunk so much so that its ability to convert ammonia
has been inhibited.  If you can, I would consider tearing down the tank
and cleaning out the gravel.  Other folks may disagree, but trying to 
adjust the pH with various pet shop potions for a typical tank can become 
part of the problem and not a solution.  If you think its the fish load 
then you either need to cut down on the number of fish or increase the 
filtration.  AND I bet you are overfeeding those mollies, who are great
beggers.  How about a RUGF with a powerhead?

If you just setup this tank then I'm clueless as to why the pH is so 
low.  

The philodendron idea is good but will probably not be as helpful in 
"curing" the tank from the nitrogen type wastes.

         mark


In article <JOANM.92Aug25183113@moe.coe.uga.edu>, joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) writes:
> 
> Just a little question for the gurus!
> After a major molly explosion I separated the females into thier own
> tank and left the males in the community tank.  The molly tank is
> filtered by a UGF only with frequent water changes.  The problen right
> now is the pH.  I cannot get it above 6!  I was using Bullseye 7.0 but
> kept hearing that it wasn't good for the tank and it cost an arm and a
> leg!  So I switched to pH up/down. I have already used up half a
> bottle of pH up over the last several weeks and haven't put a dent in
> it.  Anyway I was thinking of using good old baking soda to up the pH
> but have no idea how much to use.  Any suggestions?  The water from my
> tap is right at 6.8- 7.0 so thats not the problem, I'm sure it's the
> fish load.  I've also just stuck some philodendron cutting into the
> water to try to help out the nitrite levels.  The tank is 10g.  Any
> help or suggestions are appreciated!
> 
> Thanks,
> Joan
> 
> 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject:  Etheostoma info wanted
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 18:23:36 GMT

I've been searching some fish atlases for something interesting
to try and my eye keeps ending up looking at all the beautiful
Etheostoma species. The Axelrod atlas has lots of pictures, but
only a cursory symbolic shorthand for their characteristics.

These are North American fish, require neutral pH and medium hardness at 18C,
eat live food only, like rocky terrains, are egg layers and dwell
on the bottom. Other than that the book tells nothing.

From that description, it sounds as if they would be easy to
maintain, but I've never heard of these fish before I saw them
in that book.

Does anyone know anything about them or maybe some clubs that specialize
in them?
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: thk@tyres.asd.sgi.com (Tom Kong)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: problem with Seachem's reef status (calcium test).
Date: 4 Sep 92 20:29:55 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.

I'm curious if other netter experience the same problem I have.

Basically, the first time I used it to measure my water
I got 380ppm.  I kept the reference solution for several weeks, 
and if memory serves me right, it still looks about the same colour as it did.

My second test showed my water to have very little calcium
(lower than 150, and I stopped before wasting more reagent).
Being suspicious, I checked freshly made reef-crystal water,
it was still below 150ppm.  I then check the reference solution
that came with the kit (supposed to be 400ppm).  The reference
solution also measured below 150ppm when compared to the old
reference.  Since it is unlikely that the reference solution
has gone bad, it appears that the test reagent has deteriorated 
enough to be useless in just a few short weeks.

I store it in my office where the temps are around 75F all
the time.

Has anyone else experienced the same problem?  My initial false
reading scared me into dumping tsps of CaCl2 into the tank.
Good thing I stopped and checked.

/tom
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: luke@tfs.com (Luke Matam)
Subject: Re: Gallons (was: Re: [F] Setup for plants
Organization: TRW Financial Systems
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 21:56:52 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.174709.5955@relay.nswc.navy.mil> whiles@nswc.navy.mil writes:
>say or write, the products sold in the US still bear the size in gallons.
>This is true of not only the stuff made in the US, but also stuff imported
>in.

You are right, but imported stuff bears the size in gallons ONLY because it is
targeted toward the US and US insists on using gallons (US).
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| These are my opinions and that too only at this instant in time.            |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Luke S Matam                                            luke@tfs.com        |
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Serpae Tetra beating the tar out of goldfish!?
Date: 4 Sep 92 02:14:57 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

<HCM100@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>I consulted Axelrods before making the purchase.  

Bad choice.  Axelrod's atlas is good for pictures only.  Don't put
much stock into the identification, the size, the food requirements or
the behaviour ratings.

>described as good community fishies.  

Many books seem to describe most tetras as quiet and peaceful.  In my
experience just about all fishes who are get very aggressive when they
are in a spawning mood.  A few exceptions are the fish like Corydoras cats
who are more into group sex than into territorial battles and macho
show-offs between males.  I have kept and spawned several species of tetras
and their combative mood is one of the indications of their good health and
the tank's suitability.

>So know I am faced with the awful choice of returning the Tetra (which are
>a beatiful fish!) and getting....coucgh...gag....another fancy goldfish.

How about getting another tank and placing the tetras there?  
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Goldfish sick: Help
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 18:43:39 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <4959@news.duke.edu> infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante) writes:
>In article <1992Aug28.150645.2470@fs7.ece.cmu.edu> rajesh@maruti.ece.cmu.edu (Rajesh H. Zele) writes:
>>I have a tiny goldfish about 1.5' long. I got him just last week,
>          ^^^^                ^^^^>
>>Please help.....
>>
>>Rajesh
>
>Wow, what do consider to be a *big* goldfish!?
>..
>andy
FYI:
An adult oranda which is a fancy goldfish will easily reah about
6 standard inches (not counting the tail).  The tail can exceed
the length of the body.

Some non fancy goldfish get larger.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria