HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter)
Subject: Re: (M)(R) Back up power for reef tank?
Organization: Monsanto Company
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 20:48:33 GMT

tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
: 
: a motor?  How do you tell the difference?  Not being a PC user, can a
: UPS as Kevin suggested be used as a seperate power supply?  Or does it
: require a PC?
: 

A UPS typically doesn't care whats plugged into it, so long as you don't
exceed its rated current.  Remember that AC motors pull something like 2X
their rated current briefly when starting.  I used a 100W light bulb to do
my initial testing...
--
Kevin Carpenter       Internet:  kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com
Monsanto Company      Fidonet:   1:100/215.0 (home)
St. Louis, Missouri, U.S.A.
Opinions expressed are those of the author, not the company he works for. 
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6374 rec.aquaria:9783 sci.aquaria:1822
From: gelinas@CAM.ORG (Daniel Gelinas)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Hatching brine shrimp
Summary: help
Date: 2 Jan 93 03:23:37 GMT
Organization: Communications Accessibles Montreal, Quebec Canada

I was just wondering if anyone out there could give me simple, step by step,
instructions on how to hatch brine shrimp.  At the same time I would like a 
couple of questions answered.

I am new to this so bear with me.

1- Are they salt-water animals.  If yes, how long will they survive in fresh
water.

2-Will all fish species eat brine shrimp?

I what to look into brine shrimp because I know that the eggs can be 
purchases at 1000 or 2000 for really cheap.  I also figure that they do not
sink to the bottom and pollute the tank like the flake food does.

Thanks in advance for your co-operation.

Daniel Gelinas

gelinas@altitude.cam.org
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: mdh0957@ultb.isc.rit.edu (M.D. Haupert)
Subject: Re: Recommendation on cold water fish
Summary: Betta Food
Originator: mdh0957@ultb
Keywords: Picky
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 18:10:39 GMT

In article <1992Dec28.165808.24587@rdg.dec.com> jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria) writes:
>I wouldn't put a white cloud in it...  And definitely not a goldfish!  Goldfish are not suited for small tanks.  I kepot a betta in an unheated tank at room temperature (72 f.)  He did very well!  At 72 degrees, tho', I only fed him twice daily, and not much, at that.

Speaking of Betta, I have a few in seperate tanks and am having some
difficulty with feeding.  I feed my lovelies twice a day, but they
turn their noses up at frozen brine shrimp.  They seem to only want
live.  Has anyone else had this experience?  
-- 
mdmh von rit ( reality is what you make it )
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Sacrificial fish reccomendation sought
Date: 31 Dec 1992 19:07:25 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

Ok, I'll bite.  Try the damsels, if it's under 55 gallons, try just
a couple.  As for the anenome, dunno.  

Got any cured live rock in your tank?

[Howard's Wife Deb]
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6359 rec.aquaria:9766
From: patbob@sequent.com (Patrick White)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M)(R) Back up power for reef tank?
Date: 30 Dec 92 19:36:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Dec30.193604.28228
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <1992Dec30.183440.25656@sx.mont.nec.com> ynecelc@sx.mont.nec.com (Ellison Chan) writes:
>Well here's a suggestion which might work:
>-  Buy a 12 DC to 120 VAC voltage converter from Radio Shack.

>-  Of course, you can't bring you car into the house, so you will 
>   need to have a car battery at you disposal.

	I'd actually recommend a sealed battery (eg. a sealed led acid one or a
gel cell) rather than a car battery..  unless you like the acid fumes.  These
are what are used in home-scale UPS's. By sealed I don't mean *anything* sold
for auto use, including the maintence free ones (which really aren't.. car
batteries just last about 5 years if you never add water to them).
	I don't know where to get them new.. I run across them in surplus
places.

-- 
Pat White (patbob@sequent.com, work: (503) 578-3463)
From: cichlid@pine.circa.ufl.edu (KUTTY)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: (F) Latest Dutch Plant Tank
Date: 31 Dec 92 21:54:27 GMT
Reply-To: cichlid@pine.circa.ufl.edu
Organization: University of Florida  (ufl.edu)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4


	About a year ago, I set up a 70-gal. plant tank in the Dutch tradition
and posted a series of articles about setting up such a tank. I tore down that
tank before I moved to Tampa. I've set up another one and it is about a month
old.  Last year, I'd made the mistake of not adding enough nutrients (top soil)
to the substrate...I kept this in mind when I set up my current tank. Setting 
up this tank was easy (experience helps) and even plant layout was easy to
conjure up than it was last time. 
	Basically, it is the same tank, with 2 Vitalites and 2 Hagen Power-Glos
over the tank. The lights were on for 3-4 hours for the first 2 weeks. Now it
is upto 10 or so. 
	The water is straight out of the tap - hard and pH about 8. I spent 
the 'play money' I'd allocated for an RO unit on a bunch of rare Pike 
Cichlids. :-) I do have CO2 injection. Manual. Gets turned on after I come
home from work. Haven't measured my KH, pH, CO2, iron, phosphate, O2 etc.
Fish dont seem to care, plants dont seem to care, so I dont care. This 
attitude is cheaper and what I dont know doesnt worry me. The tank looks 
much better than the one I had last year, so I must be doing somethng right.

	I started with ~100 lbs. og small gravel, ~5 lbs. of dark top soil,
and some peat.  I had a gooey, mucky black mess after I was done mixing the
three. This pasty stuff is the main nutrient source. There is about 3"
of clean gravel on top of the paste. 

	I then bought about $100 worth of plants. Planted them. Pushed in
broken Tetra Crypto tablets near the Swords and Anubias. Just about every plant
is growing well especially Heteranthera zosterifolia (pretty flowers at the
surface), Cardamine lyrata, Anubias congoensis, Cabomba caroliniana and Rotala
indica. Didiplis and Vallisneria came back from the dead. I took a bunch of 
slides and will probably sent to the magazines (AFM). 

	I add 4 drops of Duplaplant 24 and change 15 gallons of water a week.
That 's all I do for maintenance. There is some hair algae on the older
sword leaves and some fuzzy red algae on the driftwood. You have to look to
find the algae other wise. Algae hasnt been a problem so far. I have Rummy
noses and assorted Melanotaenids in the tank. The tank is filtered by an
internal canister Fluval 2 designed for a 20-gal tank. 


                                       Vinny Kutty


Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: Lynda Fincham <gaea@zooid.guild.org>
Subject: Re: makecash
Organization: ZOOiD BBS
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 06:53:35 GMT

This is absolutely DISGUSTING, and does NOT belong in alt.aquaria. Please keep
your stupid junk posts out of this serious newsgroup.

---
Gaea (Lynda Fincham aka Mother Nature)   gaea@zooid.guild.org
ZOOiD Online, Toronto, Canada            (416) 322-7876
Free and Paid Public Access Usenet       (416) 322-0920
"It's easy to spot the optics."



Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Keeping plants alive.... how?!?
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 02:32:06 GMT

In article <15252.2b3f56b9@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu> rudin@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu writes:
>HI!
>
>I have a question about keeping store-bought plants alive in
>fresh water aquariums. Mine always seem to die. What do I need?
>More light? More of some chemical? Any help would be aprreciated!

   Well, there are people on the net who are FAR more quailify then
I am on this, but I have nothing better to do at the moment.

   How much chemical and light you need depend somewhat on what kind
of plant you want to keep.  For fast growing plants like cabomba (sp?),
the "if you see algae, put more fertilizer in" rule of thumb seems to
work.  You do have to trim the plants or they will outgrow your tank
and die.  For slow growing plant, fertilizer will turn your plant tank
into an algae tank.  My "plant" tank is a 10g with java fern and a few
crypt.  They are slow growing plants.  I do a 20% water change once a
month w/o vaccuming the gravel (mainly because it's too much work) and
add a shot glass worth of FerroPlant.  Lighting is one 18" UltraLume50.
Seems to work pretty well.  No algae problem.  Plants doing well, so are
the fish.

-Anthony

Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: ynecelc@sx.mont.nec.com (Ellison Chan)
Subject: Re: (M)(R) Back up power for reef tank?
Organization: HNSX Supercomputers
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 18:34:40 GMT

In article <1992Dec27.033608.10591@tin.monsanto.com> kncarp@nicsn1.monsanto.com (Kevin N. Carpenter) writes:
>: 
>: I was recently asked what I would do with my 45 gallon reef tank in
>: the event of a power outage.  I thought a bit and really couldn't come
>: up with a good answer.  All I could think of was the battery powered
>: air pumps I seen forsale.  Anyone with a reef tank have any experience
>: with this?  Are a couple of battery powered air pumps enough for a
>: unpredicted power outage?  Obviously bubbles breaking the surface are
>: better then nothing at all, but are they enough?
>: 
>: I only have a 45 I wonder what Steve would do with his mega reef. . . .
>: 

Well here's a suggestion which might work:

-  Buy a 12 DC to 120 VAC voltage converter from Radio Shack.
   These are the power blocks which plug into your lighter socket
   and convert car voltages for household appliances.

   This setup will allow you to plug in regular appliances. 
   (including aquarium pumps and accessories)

-  Of course, you can't bring you car into the house, so you will 
   need to have a car battery at you disposal.

   If you keep a full charge on the backup battery, I think you 
   can last out almost any power outage.

-- 
Ellison Chan, Comp. Sys. Analyst               2350 Place TransCanadienne
HNSX Supercomputers Inc., NEC Corp.        Dorval, Quebec, Canada H9P 2X5
E-mail: ellison@SX.Mont.NEC.COM          (514)684-7705, FAX (514)684-8619
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6303 rec.aquaria:9661
From: sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Former Complete Beginner still needs some help
Date: 22 Dec 92 15:22:37 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Minnesota

>
>	Here are my new questions:
>7) Several people have suggested I vacuum my gravel. My dealer has not
>heard of this. How should I do this? Is it really necessary?
>
I don't know of any good fish stores in Cambridge (I'm from 
Minnesota) but I think I can safely say that's a good one to
avoid... How could he have never heard of vacuuming gravel?...


------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: switzer@beta.uleth.ca (Dean Switzer)
Subject: Re: Snails keep dying
Organization: University of Lethbridge
Date: 21 Dec 92 10:42:49 GMT

frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:

>Dean Switzer (switzer@zeta.uleth.ca) wrote:
>: I lost my third snail just the other day and I don't know why...
>: The only disease the tank has had was a quick bout of ich that I blew
>: away with nox-ich. Although not before my male blue sword and red
>: dwarf guoramis.

>Ich medications kill invertebrates (which is why it kills ich).
>Your snails are invertebrates.  I am amazed that they did not
>die immediately.  If nox-ich uses a copper compound, the Cu will
>bind with the gravel in your tank - each time some Cu is removed
>via a water change, the Cu bound with your gravel will re-dissolve
>into your water - this is my guess as to why your snails continue
>to die.

So will the copper cause any harm to the other life? Should I replace
the gravel or wait for 16 water changes before introducing another
invert.?

Thanx for replying!!
--
Deano
* the guy with no sig *
Vc: (403) 329-3726
Internet: switzer@honte.uleth.ca
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm,comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware
From: hrubin@pop.stat.purdue.edu (Herman Rubin)
Subject: Re: looking for fast min()/max()
Keywords: speed min max
Organization: Purdue University Statistics Department
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 15:34:31 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.152808.25311@netcom.com> tm@netcom.com (Toshiyasu Morita) writes:
>I'm looking for a fast min() and max() algorithm, preferably without branching.

>Anyone know of any?

I do not know how fast this is, and it requires having an absolute value.
The absolute value on 2's complement machines can be gotten around, but
again, unless the sum and difference of the numbers do not run into 
overflow problems, this will not work.  Anyhow,

	s = x+y;
	d = abs(x-y);
	max = (s+d)/2;
	min = (s-d)/2;

-- 
Herman Rubin, Dept. of Statistics, Purdue Univ., West Lafayette IN47907-1399
Phone: (317)494-6054
hrubin@snap.stat.purdue.edu (Internet, bitnet)  
{purdue,pur-ee}!snap.stat!hrubin(UUCP)
Xref: sparky alt.lang.asm:519 comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware:34459
From: chbl@sbustd.rz.uni-sb.de (Christian Blum)
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm,comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware
Subject: Re: DRAM refresh rates
Date: 30 Dec 1992 18:03:29 GMT
Organization: Studenten-Mail, Rechenzentrum Universitaet des Saarlandes
NNTP-Posting-Host: sbustd.stud.uni-sb.de

rnichols@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.k.nichols) writes:
> In article <1992Dec27.105039.25690@microsoft.com> chuckst@microsoft.com (Chuck Strouss) writes:
> ...
> >It is surprising how long some DRAMs can go without refresh.  For
> >production systems, you must believe the manufacturers worst-case
> >specs, but DRAMs rarely need to be refreshed that often.
> ...
> 
> The length of time that a DRAM cell can hold its content without
> refresh is inversely proportional to the leakage current in the
> device.  The leakage current, in turn, is an *exponential* function of
> temperature.  What this boils down to is that a device with cells that
> must be refreshed every 2 ms at max rated temperature will hold
> information for over 20 SECONDS at a junction temperature of 25 C.
> One particularly nasty consequence of this is that it becomes very
> difficult to tell whether refresh is working correctly in your system,
> and even harder to devise a test which will reliably detect memory
> cells that might be marginal (from a refresh standpoint) at high
> temperatures.
Correct, but it was a simple question and I wanted to give a simple
answer. I know that DRAMs can do it without refresh for seconds at
room temperature, but it's really not advisable for a greenhorn to
try it...
BTW, I wrote a program that switches to lower refresh rates whenever
possible (some PCs fail to access diskettes if the rate has been
changed, and the beep won't work correctly). If anyone is interested
in it, please email.

Happy new year!

Chris
--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Christian Blum                   Universitaet des Saarlandes, Germany
Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 50          chbl@stud.uni-sb.de
W-6685 Heiligenwald              chbl@sbustd.rz.uni-sb.de
Germany                          Tel (+49) (0) 6821 67476
From: nickgill@doc.bmd.trw.com
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
Subject: Real-time DOS, is there a problem?
Date: 20 Dec 92 15:14:26 MST


HELLO,
Does anyone know of any real time problems with embedded computers using DOS?
If you have had them or know where I can find this information, please e-mail
me.
Thanks,
Nick
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
From: chuckst@microsoft.com (Chuck Strouss)
Subject: Re: looking for fast min()/max()
Date: 02 Jan 93 14:14:04 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Keywords: speed min max

In article <1992Dec30.152808.25311@netcom.com> tm@netcom.com (Toshiyasu Morita) writes:
>I'm looking for a fast min() and max() algorithm, preferably without branching.
>
>Anyone know of any?
>

I think this is the standard r1=min(r1,r2) trick, assuming two registers
holding unsigned quantities on an 80x86:

    sub   r2,r1   ; set carry if r1>r2, leave r2-r1 in r2 
    sbb   rs,rs   ; scratch register = 0ffffh if we want r2 
    and   rs,r2   ; zero difference if we want r1
    add   r1,rs   ; replace r1 value with r2 value if r1>r2

This trashes r2, and requires a scratch register, but it screams
if you have a >386 which bites when you branch.  There is an
analog of this for max.


Xref: sparky alt.lang.asm:515 comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware:34359
From: diamond@jit533.jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond)
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm,comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware
Subject: Re: DRAM refresh rates
Date: 29 Dec 92 06:24:53 GMT
Reply-To: diamond@jit.dec.com (Norman Diamond)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Japan , Tokyo

In article <1992Dec29.012957.14287@cbfsb.cb.att.com> rnichols@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.k.nichols) writes:
>My apologies if the numbers aren't quite correct.  It's been some time
>since I've worked in this area (since the days of 2 ms refresh
>requirements, in fact), and my memory is a bit hazy.

It's been some time, but at what temperature?  You should have refreshed....
--
Norman Diamond                diamond@jit.dec.com
If this were the company's opinion, I wouldn't be allowed to post it.
Pardon me?  Or do I have to commit a crime first?
From: dik@cwi.nl (Dik T. Winter)
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
Subject: Re: looking for fast min()/max()
Keywords: speed min max
Date: 1 Jan 93 01:51:55 GMT
Organization: CWI, Amsterdam

In article <C04r9K.92o@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> hrubin@pop.stat.purdue.edu (Herman Rubin) writes:
 > I do not know how fast this is, and it requires having an absolute value.
 > The absolute value on 2's complement machines can be gotten around, but
 > again, unless the sum and difference of the numbers do not run into 
 > overflow problems, this will not work.  Anyhow,
 > 
 > 	s = x+y;
 > 	d = abs(x-y);
 > 	max = (s+d)/2;
 > 	min = (s-d)/2;
 > 
Or, if your machine can do an arithmetic right shift over the complete word:
	d = x-y
	e = d >> BITSPERWORD
	d &= e
	max = x - d
	min = y + d
-- 
dik t. winter, cwi, kruislaan 413, 1098 sj  amsterdam, nederland
home: bovenover 215, 1025 jn  amsterdam, nederland; e-mail: dik@cwi.nl
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm,comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware
From: rnichols@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.k.nichols)
Subject: Re: DRAM refresh rates
Summary: Extremely sensitive to temperature
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 01:29:57 GMT

In article <1992Dec27.105039.25690@microsoft.com> chuckst@microsoft.com (Chuck Strouss) writes:
...
>It is surprising how long some DRAMs can go without refresh.  For
>production systems, you must believe the manufacturers worst-case
>specs, but DRAMs rarely need to be refreshed that often.
...

The length of time that a DRAM cell can hold its content without
refresh is inversely proportional to the leakage current in the
device.  The leakage current, in turn, is an *exponential* function of
temperature.  What this boils down to is that a device with cells that
must be refreshed every 2 ms at max rated temperature will hold
information for over 20 SECONDS at a junction temperature of 25 C.
One particularly nasty consequence of this is that it becomes very
difficult to tell whether refresh is working correctly in your system,
and even harder to devise a test which will reliably detect memory
cells that might be marginal (from a refresh standpoint) at high
temperatures.

My apologies if the numbers aren't quite correct.  It's been some time
since I've worked in this area (since the days of 2 ms refresh
requirements, in fact), and my memory is a bit hazy.

Bob Nichols
AT&T Bell Laboratories
rnichols@ihlpm.ih.att.com
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm,comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware
From: chuckst@microsoft.com (Chuck Strouss)
Subject: DRAM refresh rates
Date: 27 Dec 92 10:50:39 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation

In article <1gske7INNgje@coli-gate.coli.uni-sb.de> chbl@sbustd.rz.uni-sb.de (Christian Blum) writes:
>
>No way this will work. The refresh rate is set to 18.2 per second; since
>there are 512 rows to refresh, this means every bit in your computer's
>DRAM is refreshed every 20 seconds! There are DRAMS that survive 15ms
>without being refreshed, but a 70ns DRAM can't take it. Try about 10ms
>......

It is surprising how long some DRAMs can go without refresh.  For
production systems, you must believe the manufacturers worst-case
specs, but DRAMs rarely need to be refreshed that often.

A while back, I was working on the software for a computer system that
did its DRAM refresh with a software interrupt -- it only took about
5% of the CPU time.  At first, we had a bug in our refresh code, but
the system was still working remarkably well.  Tracing down another bug
revealed that we weren't refreshing at all, except for the natural
refreshing that came from the execution of code.

Once we got the refresh working, we decided to determine exactly
how slow we could refresh and still have the system work.  We made
sure that the CPU was executing in a tight loop the rest of the time,
so that normal execution wasn't refreshing.

Turns out the particular DRAMs we were using, at the temperatures
we were running, held their contents just fine with a 1-2 second
refresh rate.  They started failing a bit at 5 sec, and were
still 80% correct after 15 sec.

We expanded our experiments a bit, and tried DRAMs from different
manufacturers, and also tried different temperatures.  There
were remarkable differences with both parameters.  We ended up
taking the full 5% CPU hit requirred to meet the manufacturers'
specs, which I think is a good decision for anybody who is tempted
to play around with refresh rates.

Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm,comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware
From: sdstpk@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (the bearded one)
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
Subject: OS/2 function reference
Date: 30 Dec 1992 21:19:56 -0600
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: matt.ksu.ksu.edu

Greetings.  I was wondering if anyone can give me some OS/2 function call
reference/manual titles.  I would like to port some MSDOS assembly language
to native OS/2 code.  Thanks in advance...

-Stephen Spencer
-- 
i stand on ground i've walked before,|||    Stephen D. Spencer
to seek the way.                     |||    sdstpk@matt.ksu.ksu.edu
and watch the moon rise into night,  |||    Kansas State University
illuminating with its light.__-Iona-_|||______________________________________
From: idr@rigel.cs.pdx.edu (Ian D Romanick)
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm
Subject: Re: VGA MODE 13h (640x480x16) information desperately sought
Keywords: vga
Date: 29 Dec 92 09:57:49 GMT
Distribution: alt
Organization: /etc/organization

VGA mode 13h is 320x200x256.  The segment is at address 0a000h and each pixel
is one byte. What else do you want to know?

                                  - Ian Romanick
                                    Dancing Fool of Epsilon

[]--------------------------------------------------------------------[]
 |                                                                    |
 | My opinions are exactly the same as PSU's.  NOT!                   |
 | Mail at:  idr@cs.pdx.edu             Epsilon, for the best in NTSC |
 |                                      demos! :^)                    |
 |                                                                    |
[]--------------------------------------------------------------------[]
Newsgroups: alt.lang.asm,comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware