HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rct@fulcrum.co.uk (Richard Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 75-300 USM ?
Keywords: how good?
Date: 11 Jan 93 11:26:35 GMT
Organization: Fulcrum Communications

In article <Jan.8.23.49.21.1993.25583@yoko.rutgers.edu> avirmani@yoko.rutgers.edu (Aashu Virmani) writes:
>
>I have a two month old canon EF75-300 zoom.   I was happy with the
>pictures until I tried to shoot some in an aquarium in boston..  It
>just wasn't fast enough and I missed some shots..  I would have loved
>to have a USM then..
>My question is:  Canon seems to have come up with a 75-300 USM which
>is about 50 bucks cheaper than the older 100-300 USM.   Anybody out
>there having experience with this 75-300? 

My 75-300 has EF75-300 on the lens *and* Ultrasonic in gold. Is it a
EF or a USM. It seems very quiet, but I don't rate it as being
particularly fast at focussing. (but then again 75-300 is a hell of a range...)

Regards,
============================================================================
Richard Taylor                  DoD #981                 (rct@fulcrum.co.uk)
"All I want is a warm bed and a kind word and unlimited power"  A. Brilliant
============================================================================
Fulcrum Communications Ltd., Fordrough Lane, Birmingham, B9 5LD, ENGLAND.
From: barnick@mesa.Kodak.COM (William M Barnick x73638)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: winter gloves shown in Feb 93 Pop Photo
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:39:19 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <1ifcstINNi75@CS.UTK.EDU> martin@cs.utk.edu (Timothy A. Martin) writes:
>There's a little blurb in the Feb 93 issue of Popular Photography
>on page 10 about the "Photographer's Glove."  It has little rubber
>nubs on the palm-side of each glove.  They are full-finger gloves
>made of a thin, usually Thermax fabric.
>
>They are great for keeping your hands both warm and dextrous during
>these cold months.
>

You may want to consider going to a hunting supply store.  They usually
have gloves specially made to pull out your trigger finger quickly.  I got
this tip from an issue of Popular Photography several years ago.  I personally
like this solution better because some cameras have a very sensitive
trigger that you may not feel through a glove.

In any event,  the price is probably about the same.

disclaimer: opinions are just my own.

See Ya ...
WMB

--
***  William M Barnick ** Eastman Kodak ** barnick@Kodak.COM ******************
***  Electronic Imaging Platform Center * Color Scanning Systems Lab          *
***  B/65-2 D/733 mc01804   Rochester NY   14650-1804                         *
**************************** (716) 477-3638 ***********************************
From: mehta@watson.bms.com (Pradhyuman Mehta)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Olympus Infinity SuperZoom 3000
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:07:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bristol Myers Squibb Pharmaceutical Research Institute
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1


    I just bought the above model. In consumer guide it mentioned that this 
model has a date/time stamp version and a remote timer switch. Can someone 
please let me know the model numbers that carry these features. If any knows 
the cost of buying a separate remote timer in central NJ, please let me know.

	Please post replies to my internet address (mehta@bms.com) since I am
not a frequent reader of this group.

Cheers,

Prej Mehta
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: thomass@lamont.ldgo.columbia.edu (thomas stocker)
Subject: panoramic camera bogen vs widelux
Originator: thomass@ko.ldgo.columbia.edu
Organization: Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory, Columbia University, New
	York
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:48:39 GMT



Hi,

I am looking for anyone who has experience with the
Bogen Horizon 35mm panoramic camera. It is a Russian
product and realtively new on the US market.

Does anybody know, from reading a review or personal
experience, how this camera compares to the Widelux
F8. An obvious advantage of the Bogen are more shutter
speeds and aperture control. How e.g. is the mechanics ? 

Any advice it greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thomas Stocker
Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory
Palisades, NY 10964

thomass@lamont.ldgo.columbia.edu
From: deamici@csa1.lbl.gov (Giovanni De Amici :(510)4866532 - 50/351 LBL)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: looking for help (might be a FAQ) on exposure and color saturation
Date: 7 Jan 1993 18:24 PST
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory - Berkeley, CA, USA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.254.196
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

I am looking for the answer to a discussion I recently had with a friend.
If you could point to a reference (as opposite to your own personal experience)
it will be doubly appreciated.

Here is the issue: 
	in order to achieve better color rendition, should a 100 ISO film be
	exposed for 125 ISO or for 100 ISO or for 80 ISO or for some other
	speed altogether? assume that the processing will be done for 100 ISO.

	does the answer change, if the film is slides, or color
	negs, or B/W ? do different brands (Kodak vs. Fuji vs. Agfa) make a
	difference? 

	is there a difference if the film is processed for a non-nominal speed?
	i.e. 100 ISO film processed for 80 ISO or 125 ISO?

I have always shot slides at 1/3 stop above nominal (i.e. 100 ISO at 125),
processed at nominal, and found the color saturation very rich, the balance
pleasing, and good rendition of details. My friend swears by the opposite
technique (i.e. shoot 100 ISO at 80). 
Please, e-mail your suggestions and I will post a summary. 
Thank you very much.				Giovanni De Amici
From: sm@cel.co.uk (salim mehta)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: OLD LITHIUMS (was: What more to do with Lithiums)
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:15:07 GMT
Organization: Crosfield Electronics Ltd.
In-reply-to: honna@cs.concordia.ca's message of 9 Jan 93 16:57:31 GMT

In article <5620@daily-planet.concordia.ca> honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna) wrote:
> In article <1992Dec30.124224.8921@eua.ericsson.se> Harald.Brandt@eua.ericsson.se (Harald Brandt) writes:
>>................................................. so if a camera claims 
>>battery is out at about 5V, it means that most of the capacity is still 
>>left. 
> So I now want to ask: Do you have any uses for the remaining capacity?
> [there must be] a lot of netters with stockpiles of not-yet-exhausted
> Lithiums.

There seems to be some confusion concerning batteries here. For a battery to
be able to supply power it must be able to provide *current* into a load at
a given *voltage*. Its energy capacity is given by the milliamphour rating.

A measure of the open-circuit voltage tells you very little about its actual
condition. A 6volt battery that measures 5volts is NOT 5/6 full!!. A more
meaningful measure is the on-load terminal voltage. A lithium cell that reads
5v open-circuit (ie. no load connected so no current being supplied) will
probably not be able to deliver any current. If you connect a load to it
(eg. a 6v bulb) the terminal voltage will probably fall to zero. The battery
is dead.

The capacity of a battery is like the capacity of a fuel tank, a 50litre
(12gallons) will hold more energy than a 25litre (6gall) tank. However if
connected to the same load (engine) both tanks will give the same performance.
The fuel line pressure is like the voltage, increase this and the fuel flow
(current) is increased.
The tank with the larger outlet pipe can be emptied faster (maximum current
rating) and so will power a more powerful load.
The advantage of a higher capacity is greater range (battery life).

The reason for using Lithiums is that modern cameras (esp. flash) consume a
lot of current, only a Lithium gives the capacity to provide a useful life.
This, ofcourse, is why they are expensive!

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Salim Mehta                             Phone :  +44 442 230000  x3450
Crosfield Electronics Ltd               Fax   :  +44 442 232301
Hemel Hempstead  HERTS HP2 7RH  UK      Email :  sm@crosfield.co.uk
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
     Alt email :  sm@cel.uucp     ...!{mcsun,uknet,uunet}!cel!sm
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: OTF Metering Inaccuracies
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Date: 6 Jan 93 17:16:05 EST
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: world
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

In article <1993Jan5.114901.29326@spider.co.uk>, mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike
Coren) wrote:
>
> He noted, however, that there were three films which would require additional
> correction to the OTF metered reading:
> 
> 	- Agfapan 25 document film
> 	- Orwo NP15
> 	- Kodak black & white infared film
 

Mike-

Another film to be concerned about, is the Polaroid Pola-Slide film.  I
don't think it had come out when Olympus did their testing.

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
From: hklrs@usho94.hou281.chevron.com (Kevin Larson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Questions about everything
Date: 5 Jan 93 13:27:30 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1993Jan5.114632.29209@spider.co.uk> mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:
>
>
>8)  What is the air speed velocity of an unlaiden swallow?
>
  European or African ?
From: b1hg0jv@kato.BELL-ATL.COM (Benash)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Mail-Order Source Wanted
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:56:41 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bell Atlantic

I've read and used the mail-order rating list that used to be posted here,
as well as the ongoing posts on mail order service delivered to rec.photo
readers.

In fact I pretty much use Camera World of Oregon and Adorama excluseively
now for most all of my purchases.

Alas, I haven't seen the rating list posted lately, and I'm looking for
a Minolta C-618 Camcorder. CWO nor Adorama sell them. Anyone have the
current list/recommendations?

Ray Benash
b1hg0jv@kato.bell-atl.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: patrice@cenparmi.concordia.ca (SCATTOLIN patrice)
Subject: Re: An unusual camera question
Organization: CENPARMI, Concordia University, Montreal, Canada
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 20:50:01 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.184740.23859@ultb.isc.rit.edu> dxa8439@ultb.isc.rit.edu (D.X. Axelrad) writes:
>Does anyone know of a brand of camera manufactured in either Korea or
>Italy.  I'm really just interested in the brand names.


Korea: Look for Samsung cameras. Like Samsung TV Radios and the like
they are manufactured in Korea. Samsung also manufacture the 
Pentax point and shots and their P&S zooms. Sometime you can find them
under their Samsung brand name.

Italy: None that I know

-- 
Patrice Scattolin
					patrice@cs.concordia.ca
Concordia University			Montreal, Canada
"I am so far north that Santa lives two blocks from me"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mas@porgy.jpl.nasa.gov (Marc A. Sarrel)
Subject: Re: How to become a freelance photojournalist?
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
	<15234@ncrcan.Canada.NCR.CA> <sch.726353852@gargoyle>
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 00:29:12 GMT

In article <sch.726353852@gargoyle> sch@unx.sas.com (Steve Holzworth) writes:

   Press credentials are handled on a per-event basis by the organizers
   of the event. Assuming your client is an involved party, they can get
   in touch with the organizers to arrange press credentials for you.
   There is no generic "I'm a REAL (tm) photographer" press badge. For the
   most part, TV stations get away with things because they are carrying this
   big camera with the station's logo on it. They still usually call someone
   first to see about coverage.

   You will probably not have much luck asking for a pass if you don't have
   an involved party, or a legitimate news organization to vouch for you.
   Smaller events will sometimes give you a pass, just to get ANY potential
   coverage.

I seem to remember some discussion of this topic in rec.photo a couple
of months back.  The scheme outlined above sounds fine, but it fails
for unorganized newsworthy events such as accidents, strikes,
demonstrations, etc.  I think I remember someone saying that local
police deptartments have been known to issue credentials that cover
such events.  But, as I remember, the police were very stingy about it
and you have to provide a large publication list to convince them.
I'm not sure if such a credential would let you cross police lines or
not...

--marc
From: nelson@hepxvt.ps.uci.edu (Matt Nelson)
Subject: Yashica T4 - my first roll
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:01:37 GMT


So, I just put my first roll of film through my new T4.  Just thought
y'all might want to hear what I think.  I got the date-back version
of the thing, since the store was out of stock on the other, and the
date-back was only $10 more.  I turned off imprinting, so if you want
to know how that works, look elswhere.

For those who dont know, here are the specs (as best as I can remember
them...):

	camera type:	35mm point and shoot
	price:		$159 at local store (~$300 list ???)
	size:		tiny - like Stylus or Big-Mini
	lens:		Carl Zeiss Tessar T* 35 f/3.5 w/ built in cover.
	shutter:	1 - 1/700 s
	focus:		three-beam IR focusing with infinity-lock.
	flash:		weak (as is usual).  Auto, Anti-Red-Eye, 
			flash-always, and flash off modes.
	film:		DX from 50-3200 (no overide), auto load, wind 
			and rewind.  mid-roll rewind button.  
			Non-DX defaults to ISO 100.

I pumped a roll of Ektachrome 100X through the thing.  I am really quite
impressed by the results.  The first thing that struck me was how good
the exposure was (my other camera is a FM-2, so I tend to distrust auto-
exposure cameras - especially a point-and-shoot).  There was only one
frame that was really off (I think my bro shot that one, and may have
turned off the flash for some unknown reason).  In particular, I had one
shot of two people outside during a really fantasitc sunset; it was
as good as I could have done with my 'real' camera.  Both the people and
the sunset were perfectly exposed.  Lucky?  maybe, but I wont question it
until I have reason to.  I did auto-fill and flash off comparisons of some
scenes; the fill flash was sometimes a little strong, but was good in
general.  This sort of thing is up to the photographer to decide whether
or not he wants it (using such tests as a guidline).

I also took some 'test' frames - flowers, white fences etc.  I was pleased
with the contrast (though not quite as good as my Nikkors...), and the
sharpness was really pretty good.  There was no obvious distortion, and
very little color - even at the edges of the frame.  I was quite happy with
these pics.

Gripes?  Not many of em.  The mid-roll rewind button is very small - you
NEED a pencil or pen to push it (it reminds me of the reset buttons on
calculators...).  It does not leave the leader out after rewind.  There
is a bit of delay after pushing the shutter release, during which you hear
a lot of whirring of the focusing motor followed by whirring of the winder;
I dont get a good indication of when the exposure is actually made.  These
are minor gripes.

I havent used a point-and-shoot for quite a while, so I cant make a 
direct comparison with other models.  I can, however, say that this puppy
is good enough to make me think twice about lugging my SLR up into the
mountains on a backpacking trip.

I'll give it a 'thumbs-up' (for now, at least...).
From: uli@i13d5.ira.uka.de (Uli Bodenhausen)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Blad vs Mamiya (Lenses, Weight, Other)
Date: 7 Jan 1993 12:00:26 GMT
Organization: University of Karlsruhe, FRG
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: i13d5.ira.uka.de

In article <1993Jan6.224323.12104@bony1.bony.com>, jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni) writes:
|> In article <1icvueINNq2b@flop.ENGR.ORST.EDU> monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson) writes:
|> >In article <1icqrtINN968@iraul1.ira.uka.de> uli@i13d5.ira.uka.de (Uli Bodenhausen) writes:
|> 
|> >>It seems to me as if the purchase of Hasselblad equipment can also be seen
|> >>as an investment. The price of this stuff probably goes up. 
|> 
|> > I don't think it is wise to purchase this equipment thinking that
|> > you can get your money back unless you are buying used stuff from
|> > an individual at unusually attractive prices.
|> 
|> In simple terms, if the value of something is most likely to go up,
|> then the manufacturers and dealers wouldn't sell them; they'd keep
|> them (and the future profits) for themselves.


Well, I didn't want to say that you can make money by buying Hasselblad
equipment, storing it and selling it later. But compared to other 
brands, Hasselblad equipment seems to keep its value pretty well. 
The latest techno-wonders don't.

	Uli
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Subject: Re: Spotone experience out there?
Reply-To: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:41:44 GMT


I can't say I have tremendous experience with Spotone but the few times
I've tried it (with Ilforod Multigrade III RC, glossy) I was able to match
to my satisfaction.

Are you using a medicine dropper so you can measure accurately?  Start
with neutral and add dye as you see fit.  Perhaps you are mixing in
quantities too small so that minute changes in one dye cause significant
changes in the resulting mixture.  If you use enough dye you should be
able to change color balance slowly.

-Michael
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Couple of Questions
Date: 12 Jan 93 16:14:19 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

jaym@hplsla.hp.com (Jay Miazga) wrote:
> I've been looking for a  camera strap/harness that holds an SLR tightly to
> your chest, but has velcro or snaps that release it to shoot.  I think one
> brand was called a "Snuggler".  It's typically used for hiking.  I haven't
> had any luck in any of the local camera stores or outdoor equipment stores,
> so I was wondering if anyone knows of a source.

Why not make one?  I have a system of straps that fits all my cameras:
short lengths of 1" wide webbing fitted to each camera with snap-together
buckles (both male and female on opposite ends of the camera to form a very
short handle when pushed together) and an assortment of web and stretchy
straps to plug into these.  I do this both to save money on not having an
Op-Tech stretchy strap for every camera and for the flexibility of using
different straps for different uses (for a 35mm with a short lens I prefer
a webbing strap over my left arm so the camera's under my armpit: for
longer lenses I prefer the Op-Tech round my neck).  The whole mess is held
together at various places with webbing and sewing thread or else strips of
leather formed into loops with superglue, as appropriate.

A bit of sewing would easily let me add the sort of functionality you want:
like a strap with two buckles on each end to go round my back and
interpolate between the Op-Tech and the stub straps on the camera (several
different arrangements for releasing it quickly are possible).  That would
cost less than a yard of webbing and a few fasteners from an outdoors shop.

One small niggle: the Op-Tech fasteners are flimsy and non-standard.  I've
replaced them with the commonest kind of 1" fastener I can get round here.
Also my asymmetric arrangement means I can't put the Op-Tech on backwards
(they're shaped to have a front and a back).

This whole setup started after I bought an Op-Tech on the assumption that
the stub straps would be available separately, only to find that the shop
assistant was lying.  What I've got now is much better and doesn't even
look ugly.

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Warning for users of flash bouncers!
Date: 5 Jan 93 18:04:19 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

Here's a gem I saw in the letters section of the December 1992 issue of
"Popular Photography":

	"Based on your fine words in 'How to select a flash
	 diffuser [September '92, page 52)] (sic), I ordered
	 a LumiQuest Pocket Bouncer and Mylar inserts for my
	 Canon 300EZ flash.  Obviously, I didn't know anything
	 about how the bouncer worked or was attached to flash
	 units.  You can guess the outcome; when the bouncer
	 arrived, I found that mounting it on my nontilting
	 flash unit would provide a bright flash of light on
	 my feet.
	   Of course, your article never said anything about
	 bouncers working only upon tilt-head flash units..."

I don't know if I should feel sorry for the guy or not.

Mike

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dxa8439@ultb.isc.rit.edu (D.X. Axelrad)
Subject: An unusual camera question
Originator: dxa8439@ultb
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology and Stuff
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 18:47:40 GMT

Does anyone know of a brand of camera manufactured in either Korea or
Italy.  I'm really just interested in the brand names.

Thanks much,

Dan Axelrad
dxa8439@ritvax.isc.rit.edu - "I just have no opinion !"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ebraeden@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Eric W Braeden)
Subject: Recommendations sought for TR81 & Comments on TR200
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:33:54 GMT


I've decided to buy the Sony TR81 after having looked at the Sony models
and clones and reading this newsgroup for six months. I will be using it 
in Europe and the USA. Besides a spare battery pack, what else will I find
myself wanting with the camcorder? Are those converter packs for AA bateries
really useful?

One observation I like to make is about the Sony TR200. Yes, the fast
focusing system is great. Yes, the lithium-ion battery is probably the
standard of tomorrow. IMHO, however, don't let these slick new features
suck you into buying this machine. It just doesn't have the quality of
the other Sonys. For one, the plastic guide rails for the eye-tube are
enough to make a technophile sick. The units I saw in the local stores
were actually grinding themselves to dust from all the handling over
Christmas!! The base unit was equally bad: sloppy plastic againts plastic.
I was NOT impressed. I kept thinking, "Scheisse, alle Scheisse!" If you 
want Sony's new technology, better models than the TR200 must be ready
soon. Skip over the TR200. 

Eric

-- 
Eric W. Braeden                    | "Der Verstand war zwar praechtig
Ohio State University              | doch das Nuetzte am Ende nicht viel"
ebraeden@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu | Peter Schilling   120 Grad    1983
From: dwing@cudnvr.denver.colorado.edu (Dan Wing)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Which UV filter is better?
Date: 4 Jan 93 14:38:42 GMT

In article <1993Jan1.072413.26474@chpc.utexas.edu>, byab354@chpc.utexas.edu 
(Jim Xu) writes:

> Could you tell me which brand of UV filter is better?
> Nikon(L37C), HOYA(?), TIFFEN(1?), COKIN(?), HELIOPAN(?), ......
> 
> What is the best price for 52mm?

Canon also makes a (cheap, $10 mail order) UV filter, so I'd like to extend 
Jim's question to that UV filter as well.

-Dan Wing, dwing@uh01.colorado.edu or wing_d@ucolmcc.bitnet (DGW11)
 Systems Administrator, University Hospital, Denver (DGW11)
Newsgroups: rec.photo