HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Paint shavers
Date: 16 Oct 1992 18:09:02 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Howdy folks!
	First off, thanks for the responses.  For the most part, quite helpful,
but I was REALLY looking for someone who'd used one of these buggers.

	Second, I'm kinda confused about why everyone is asking what kind of
house I have.  First of all, I don't think anyone would want to use high-speed
rotating blades to remove paint from brick.  Or aluminum.   And in my original
post, I said that the ad claims that the shaver uses three rotating blades
that "shave" the paint off the wood.  So I guess I have wood siding.  And this
is rec.WOODWORKING.  Would it have made that much difference if I said I had
wood clapboards as opposed to wood shingles or shakes?  I assumed it wouldn't.
But, such is the nature of Usenet: don't assume!

	I have called the company that advertises in OHJ and have asked them
to send me more info on their tool, especially on the vacuum containment
system.  The very first blurb in the ad says something like "ecologically
sound method of removing paint."  But, like most of you, I have my doubts.  
Lead dust is no fun.

	Just to make it clear then, my house is a wood frame house built in
1910 on a 16" brick foundation.  The siding is the original (6 inch?) cedar
clapboards, with "fishscale" shingles on the gables of two dormers.  The
window frames are still original and are pine.  The house is now grey with
the windows trimmed in white.  The house was fairly recently painted with
what seems to have been just cursory scraping and there are many areas where
the paint is built up quite thick- the weight of the paint seems to be causing
quite a bit of flaking and chunks falling off.  That's why I'd ideally like
to take it down to the wood this time 'round.  The house has metal gutters,
some aluminum storm windows and some wooden storm windows.  The roof is
brand new (and I mean BRAND new- they just finished a complete tear off
and reroof a month ago.  Asphalt Owens Corning shingles.  Aluminum valleys.)

So, if all this lends to more comments, please do!  And I will summarize the
info that I get from the paint-shaver company too.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Grizzly Bandsaw
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 15:06:18 GMT

In article <pea.718418618@spider.wri.com> pea@spider.wri.com (Bruce Pea) writes:

>Can anyone tell me anything about Grizzly's bandsaws?

Boy, did you just open Pandora's box!

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Macho": Pertaining to masculine behavior. In
George Patterson -  |    proper usage, the word is invariably followed
                    |    by the word "bullshit".
                    |                                Kelvin Throop
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re: Stones used for honing - Question
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 14:12:31 GMT

In article ldtg5kINN7tf@news.bbn.com, tlaughli@star-trek.bbn.com (Tom Laughlin) writes:
>
>Working with hand tools is new to me.  The process of flattening the back side
>of chisels and plane blades is a lengthy one, at least for me anyway.  I very
>pleased with the results once done but I'd very much like to reduce the time
>to get there.
>
>What I'd like to get from the newgroup is a summary of the types of
>stones offered.  To date I know of 4 - oil, wet, diamond and ceramic.
>
> [...]
>
>I am willing to invest more $ in a quicker method to achieving a flat surface.
>Should I spend it on wet stones or diamond stones?
>

You can flatten the back of your edge tools any number of ways.  The problem you
seem to be having is not starting with coarse enough abrasives.  This is becuase
you are trying to use honing stones to remove bulk material.  There are coarse
grit waterstones, and probably oil and diamond variations as well, but probably the
best thing to do is set up a lapping plate.  You can buy a steel lapping plate, and
little jars of silicon carbide abrasives which are meant for exactly this purpose.
Many folks just use a piece of plate glass with silicon carbide sandpaper glued down
with spray adhesive.  You can also use the powdered abrasives with the sandpaper
for additional grit, if you like. The idea is to remove the bulk material as fast
as you can with a coarse abrasive, then to clean up with increasingly finer grits.
The advantage to these methods are these: first you are not as limited in surface
area as you are with a stone; second, since the abrasive is "disposable" you always
get fresh grit, and its fairly inexpensive.  Flattening the back is a more-or-less one
time operation, so it makes sense to not invest in a coarse stone that will be used
only seldom, when a few sheets of wet-or-dry sandpaper and some glass will do just
fine.

As for types of stones - the big advantage to waterstones is the grit is bound in
a soft medium that breaks down as you use the stone, always exposing fresh grit.
Thus, they are easy to use and work fast.  The disadvantage is they wear out more
quickly, and the surface can deform, so they need periodic flattening themselves.
Luckily, they are less expensive than good Arkansas Oil stones or diamond stones,
as you will find yourself replacing them every few years (depending on use).
Good oilstones are nice to have, especially if you use gouges, becuase they hold
their shape better.  Waterstones are great for chisels and plane irons, because
you can get a slightly dull edge back to razor sharp in seconds.  Lapping plates
are the best for flattening because you can get the grit you want, in the quantity
you want, and wail away on it, without worring about ruining your expensive
honing stones (especially good Arkansas stones).

That's my 2 cents,
Walt
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 8 Oct 1992 08:41:52 EST
From:         ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET>
Subject:      Red Oak in Bulk

Hi Fellow Woodworkers -

I am trying to justify buying a planer by purchasing wood that
is dried, but not finished on any side.  So far I have been
unable to find a source of bulk wood like this.  I am
interested in red oak that is accessibleto the Staten Island
New York area.

Suggestions in the New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania areas
would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance -

Gene Sampson
(718)966-9263
From: JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: heater for garage/workshop
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:22:07 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
              14 Oct 1992 21:29:42 -0500 from <gppeter@SDRC.SDRC.COM>

On Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:29:42 -0500 Peter Bennett said:
>I;m considering a heater to use in my garage/woodworking shop this winter.
>
>There are two possibilities: 1) Kerosene mantle type heater,
>2) kerosene/fuel oil 'jet engine' forced convection heater.
>(electric is too expensive, too small)
>
>I have the jet engine style 50,000 BTU "Reddy" heater which uses kerosene.
>After freezing my tail off for many a day this sure solved my problem.  Here
 are a couple of thoughts:  For me, there has never been a problem with the
 dust/fire situation, even though there is alot of dust floating around
 and on the floor I've never experienced anything close to a fire.  As long
 as it's used in a prudent manner this is a non-issue.  I have a two car
 garage converted to a work shop and this heater is more than adequate
 to warm the place up.  When I first got it (in the dead of winter) I heated
 that garage up until I could walk around in a T-shirt (I was a very happy
 woodchuck).  But then reality set in and I realized that I had to feed the
 thing so I keep it at about 55 degrees(?) and wear a coat.  I really wish it
 had a thermostat, which I believe can be purchased or you end up plugging
 and unplugging the cord quite a bit.  My final thought is in regard to
 kerosene.  For some reason I ALWAYS manage to spill when I fuel up.  If you
 get it on the shop floor it takes forever for it to evaporate out of the
 concrete and this stuff really stinks.  If you get it on your skin don't plan
 on anything romantic with the wife, it really turns em' off, pretty rude huh?


Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Using a drill press as a lathe
Date: 14 Oct 92 13:48:04 GMT
Reply-To: david@tallgrass.COM (David Hoopes)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.


Hello,

    I have seen a gadget in a catalog that allows you to use a 
drill press as a small vertical lathe.  I need to make a couple
of handles for socket chisels, and have been thinking about trying
it on the drill press since I don't have a lathe (yet).

    Has anyone used one of these gadgets before?  How did it work?
Any comments?



-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214        
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ivar@hannibal.hsn.no (Ivar Moan)
Subject: Re:      Re: Hand Plane Question
Organization: Nordland Regional College, Bodoe, Norway
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:44:11 GMT

I had the same problem with my Stanley low angle block plane, and
found that the problem was as suggested by Walter B Ligon in his
reply. I simply used a file to remove the burr, but take it easy
and test the plane as you go ahead. My plane is working fine now.

By the way, on my plane the burr was on the right side of the, causing the
plane to cut deeper on the left side. If so is the case with yours
as well, it may indicate that Stanley have a problem they better
find a solution for.

--- Ivar ---
From: meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J. Meltsner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Bookcase design (It's baaaack!)
Date: 14 Oct 92 14:09:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: crd.1992Oct14.140909.26654
Reply-To: meltsner@crd.ge.com
Organization: GE Research and Development Center




Okay, the time has come to bite the bullet and actually build the
bookcase.  I'm currently planning on using a "Traditional Bookcase"
design from one of the Rodale Press books (Cabinetry?  All the book
titles have blurred together).

The bookcase, which will be built-in, consists of any number of
butt-jointed plywood boxes, with a nice stile (vertical strip of wood)
covering the vertical sides, a baseboard for the bottom, and a cove
molding between the ceiling and the bookcase top.  Strength, given the
lack of fancy joints and the use of adjustable shelving, comes from
the plywood back and a lot of drywall screws through all the joints.
Stability is due to attachment to the wall.  Looks are due to the
stiles and moldings, which I can tackle after the basic cases are up.

Here are my questions and comments:

Oak stair treads (11-1/4, 5/4, bullnose, 36-42" wide) are available
and would appear to be a good shelving material (no cutting -- I don't
have a table saw so I'd like to minimize saw work).  Any experience
with these as shelves?  Sunset used them in one of their books, but
I'm not always sure about their designs.  42" is a bit wide; one
friend suggests a fifth adjustable shelf pilaster strip down the middle
of the plywood back.  (42" x 3 + thickness of verticals = wall width +
a few inches -- the wall has an arched doorway so I can't build flush
to the edge.  32" x 4 also works well, but requires more stairtreads.)

Around here, stairtreads run about $20-30 ea, depending on length.  I
could go with pre-slotted plywood (last years Woodworker's Store
catalog: ~$8-10) + a nice molding.  I'd lose the 5/4 thickness and
solid wood look.  Any comments?

I'm going to make these suckers 8' tall, since my ceiling is about
101".  This is an inconvenient height for top shelf users, but once
again, I'm trying keep down the cutting involved.  Book says 2"
ceiling to bookcase gap is adequate for tipping the case into place --
is it?  Hypotenuse on a 96"x12" side is ~ 97 inches -- is this the
right number?  And how do I level the damn things, especially since
I'd prefer not to remove the carpet underneath?  What are the best
fasteners to secure the cases to real plaster/lath walls (1930's
vintage)?

Any tips on matching a Mission Oak finish?  Specific stain
recommendations?  Top coats that aren't toxic to books?

Thanks for any and all comments.  We're talking about a lot of
stairtreads, if this goes wrong.



===============================================================================
Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391
GE Research and Development Center  | Fax:  (518) 387-7495
P.O. Box 8, Room K1/MB207	    | Nothing I say should be attributed
Schenectady, NY 12301               | to my employer, and probably vice-versa
================ Materials and Manufacturing, World O' Stuff ==================
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dnsurber@lescsse.jsc.nasa.gov (Douglas N. Surber)
Subject: Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
Organization: Lockheed Engineering and Sciences
Distribution: na
Date:  8 Oct 92 19:54:38 GMT

In <1992Oct07.162028.7435@bmerh85.bnr.ca> jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin) writes:

>On an aside note, why do you need the curved beams?  In the past when
>building something that required work beyond my abilities I looked for
>other options.  If you are worried about making the beam round, why not 
>opt for a different shape that you may feel more comfortable with, i.e. 
>square with rounded edges, get the largest round over bit you can find??
>Then agin, that may not be an option.

They will be the tops of the headboard and foot board of a bed frame.

		       --------------
	    -----------    |    |    -----------
	/-- |    |    |    |    |    |    |    | --\
	|   |    |    |    |    |    |    |    |   |
	|   |    |    |    |    |    |    |    |   |
	|   |    |    |    |    |    |    |    |   |
	|   |    |    |    |    |    |    |    |   |
	|   |    |    |    |    |    |    |    |   |
	|   |    |    |    |    |    |    |    |   |
	|---+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+---+
	|                                          |
	|                                          |
	|                                          |
	|------------------------------------------|
	|                                          |
	|                                          |
	|                                          |

The horizontal pieces and the two side posts will be 4" diameter.
The other vertical pieces will be smaller (1" - 1 1/2") in diameter.  I want
a very shallow bend in the top rail (one diameter).  I'm going for a "brass
bed" look, but out of wood, so everything needs to be round.  I've thought
of doing something more rectilinear with turnings at the top of the posts
and lots of little knobs and dodads, but after making some drawings, I 
really want a cleaner, more organic look.  Almost a peeled branch feel, but
more formal.  Anyway I pretty much know what I want and now I trying to
figure out how to build it.  I guess I'm just a slave to esthetics (sp?).

Once again thanks for all of the help.

P.S. Is there a master wooden boat builder in the Houston area? :)

Douglas Surber
Lockheed
Houston, TX
From: jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL (Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Maquetry vendors
Date: 16 Oct 92 21:43:15 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.2 PL0]
              Oct 16, 92 12:21 pm


      Try Constantine's.  Just got their catalog and it is full of inlay and
      marquetry products.

      Toll Free 1-800-223-8087

      Order Department

      Constantine
      Albert Constantine and Son, Inc.
      2050 Eastchester Road
      Bronx, New York  10461-2297


      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: townsend@ (Paul Townsend)
Subject: Re: Recommendations for random orbital sander
Organization: MPR Teltech Ltd.
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 92 15:33:14 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.010222.23114@tc.cornell.edu>, kakazu@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (Gary Kakazu) writes:
|> Does anyone have any recommendations for a good random orbital sander?
|> 
I have the Porter Cable 6" variable speed Random Orbital. A very nice unit, I am pleased
with it.

Paul

-- 

===
Paul Townsend -- MPR Teltech                  <<Part of the BC Tel Group>>
+--------------------------------------------+----------------------------+
| NET  : ...!ubc-cs!mprgate!handel!townsend  | MPR Teltech Ltd            |
|        townsend@mprgate.mpr.ca             | 8999 Nelson Way            |
| FONE : 604-293-5346   FAX: 604-293-5787    | Burnaby BC Canada  V5A 4B5 |
+--------------------------------------------+----------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pea@spider.wri.com (Bruce Pea)
Subject: Grizzly Bandsaw
Organization: Wolfram Research, Inc.
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 18:27:34 GMT

I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my query about Grizzly
bandsaws. I appreciate all the comments very much.

To make a long story short, I'll keep looking...
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: need help using a scraper
Date: 13 Oct 92 19:56:10 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

paradis@sousa.ltn.dec.com (Jim Paradis) writes:

> When do I know that I'm *done* burnishing?  How big a hook should I have?
> Is it possible to *over* burnish?

You're done burnishing when _you_ are satisfied with the results.  There is
no correct amount of hook; each task has an optimum amount and angle of
hook--for each person at that particular time.  For example, you might want a
larger hook later in the day than in the morning, or vice-versa.

You can over-burnish.  Too large a hook can remove more wood than you want,
and it can take more effort and dull faster.

The only suggestion I feel comfortable making is: "Keep trying different
sizes and angles of hook, on different woods, and using different techniques.
Eventually you'll get a 'feel' for how to burnish the edge for a particular
task."

I'm still learning myself.  :)

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re:      nailing w/o splitting
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:39:23 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.221437.3832@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com>, stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn) writes:
|> In article <WOODWORK%92101214190202@IPFWVM.BITNET>,         JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET writes:
|> |> I'm getting ready to nail some 3/4" lattice onto the base of my deck--each
|> |> slat is 3/8" thick.  However, I'm a little worried about splitting the lattice
|> |> by hammering the nails through.  I've seen folks dull the tips of nails by
|> |> whacking them a couple times with a hammer, before driving them into narrow
|> |> boards, to avoid splitting.  Does this really do any good?  Does dulling the
|> |> tip cause the nail to crush wood fibers as it's driven, instead of spreading
|> |> them apart?  Is there any type of nail that would be recommended for nailing
|> |> up this lattice--perhaps something that's less likely to split the wood, and
|> |> is somewhat resistant to corrosion in the rain?
|> |> 
|> 
|> Joe, I can't speak to the type of nails you should use but I can attest to the fact that if you dull the point of a nail it less likely to split the wood.  I think it's magic but "those who know" have explained to me that dulling, as you said, crushes the
|>  wood.  A sharp point on a nail tends to act like a wedge and thus has a tendancy to cause splits.
|> 


The carpenter that showed me this trick did the hammering of the tip with
the nail placed backwards at the location the nail was intended to be driven.
This way the head (finishing nail) also punched a small dent into the surface
of the wood. He thought that this helped too. 

Of course you could always drill a pilot hole, as we did for all our oak
window trim.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 9 Oct 1992 14:14:27 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Red Oak in Bulk
              8 Oct 1992 17:38:13 GMT from <bsloan@DALE.KSC.NASA.GOV>

     Look for ads. from Steve Wall Lumber in Myodan (sp?), NC.  He usually
runs them in WOOD and FWW, get a catalog, there may be your excuse for a
planer!!
     I have bought rought lumber from him, as he is "just down the road"
I can haul it home in a trailer and don't have to worry about truck delivery.
     Got a 12'x8"x12/4 cherry log from him a couple of months ago, very
nice wood, it had a slight cup (~1/8") and wasn't quite straight. He would
have planed it for me but as it was for a mantel and therefore didn't have
to be perfectly flat I opted to do it myself so that I could keep the
maximum amount of wood.
   This gets me to the subject of planes, this, of course was quite a
heavy piece of timber, probably too much for any planer or jointer
that I could afford.  It took me less than two lazy vacation days
to surface this with hand planes.  First rough out the cup with a wooden
"scrub", (BTY a SCRUB planes has a convex blade, is used diagonally accross
the grain, removes gouge like sections of wood very rapidly), next a "jack"
also used somewhat across the grain, true up with the "jack" along the
grain, the as I didn't need it absolutely true I used a "smooth" in place
of a "jointer" for final clean up, then a scraper.  I started the work on a
couple of sawhorses outside but did finish work inside and the workshop
is still a mess. Most of my planes are well used Records for the late 50's
which were bought in my youth, I cannot saw anything about the quality
of current Record, Stanley, or copies but I have about a dozen or so
from this era (including the wonderfull Multiplane) which my young son
covets, he his waiting for me to die so he can have the as his own!!!!!


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly Bandsaw
Date: 14 Oct 92 03:54:47 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@climb.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems

6-7in resawing and basic cutting.   comments:
   1)  two pieces were broken in shipping, looks like it was dropkicked from WA to CA but 
        they replaced them just fine.

   2)   Be sure to get "Bandsaw handbook" and read the chapter on "tuning up your saw". mine
         had all the problems listed.   Still haven't got the intermittant vibrations out.
   
    3)  I feel its a problem that the saw doesn't have a dust collector port.   I had a cut 
        one in but enough still flies around that it shorts out the magnetic switch every 
         month or so.
 
    4)   For the money, i paid  $499 (you can bargain with em if you have an equiviant 
         machine ad from a competitor)  it is nice to have the 1 1/2 hp and the 10in resaw.
          Just be ready to "rebuild" it to work smoothly.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking