HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Need Help Growing Brine Shrimp
Date: 29 Sep 92 05:28:46 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman) writes:
>3 months in that bucket? I'm impressed.

3 months in the 90% light shade out on my balcony with occasional
infusions of fresh water.  That's pretty close to the conditions the
brine shrimp live in, except they live in full sun and there is enough
water under them to keep the water from boiling.  The key to the
longevity of this little experiment is probably the water.  When I
collected it, it was a murky, smelly, dark yellow filth.  It became
yellow-tinted crystal-clear by the time the salt started crusting on
the surface and there were no shrimp to be seen.  That's why Leslie
Salt Co. likes brine shrimp -- they clean the water up.

>By the way - for we East Coasters, the brine shrimp Oleg and I collected
>were by far the largest adult brine shrimp I've ever seen - it appears that

What you saw were the usual sized shrimp, at 3/8-1/2" length.
Seasonally one can find really big shrimp, up to 3/4" total length
(1/2" without the tail).  I actually prefer the smaller shrimp, because
I can feed them to the juveniles and larger fry.

>Lots of the 'killi factory' breeders in the Bay Area do this with good
>success and avoid more hazardous foods like tubificid worms (blackworms
>and tubifex,) which should be used with extreme reluctance, if at all.

And yet some of the most successful local breeders use large amounts of 
black worms....
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7788 alt.aquaria:5190
From: kao@duke.cs.duke.edu (Ming Kao)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: System One Filter
Date: 5 Oct 92 13:21:14 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Duke University Computer Science Dept.; Durham, N.C.

I am thinking about buying a System One pressure filter for
weekly water polishing. Could you tell me your experiences with
it?

Thanks. --- Ming
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 09:58:13 EDT
From: teri <TLD115@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Pleco Food Part 2

bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:

Thanks for everyones suggestions about cucumber for the Pleco.  My
Pleco hasn't touched it yet.  How long should I leave it in the tank?
I seeded it...do I leave the skin on?  What about other foods?
Lettuce?



 My pleco really likes zuchinni and yellow summer squash (kinda like zuchinni,
but yellow)..I prefer them over cucumbers because they don't disintigrate so
quickly.  I bought a "lettuce clip" at a pet store, is a plastic clothspin like
thing with a suction cup.  I just slice a piece thin enough to get the clip on
and stick it to the bottom of the side glass.

You could probably make something like this yourself, if no stores around you
have them, but don't use anything with metal, like a normal clothspin.

I usually leave the squash in for about a day or two, if my goldfish haven't
fininshed it off.  (other fish tend to really like this stuff to.....especially
goldfish.....)

Try putting it in a dark back corner, cause thats whare pleco's tend to like to
hide.

good luck.

teri    tld115@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan)
Subject: Re: 33-G FILTRATION
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 92 13:06:25 EDT
Organization: The University of Michigan, Ann Arbor

In article <15913@mindlink.bc.ca> Alan_Schianni@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Schianni)  
writes:
> On my older tank - a 10-g having one medium size piranha,
> I use an "AquaClear" MINI power filter.  It says it is for
> aquariums up to 20U.S. gallons but that it pumps 100-g per hour. I've been
> operating this machine on "low-speed" and it seems to be
> working fine.  Could I use this Mini system in my 33-g tank or will
> that expose me to problems?  If not, could anyone recommend what
> type of filtration systems I could purchase?

The AquaClear Mini is rated at 100-g per hour when set to maximum
flow and under IDEAL circumstances. If it's set to minimum flow
and the filter media is dirty, it may pump as little as 33-g per
hour. Since you say you've been satisfied running it on "low speed",
I expect that you'd be safe moving it to the 33-g tank and setting
it on "high speed". That may depend on how many new fish you add;
increase in bio-load.

  If you want to play it safe, you could purchase the AquaClear 150
which is rated at 150-g per hour. 

Neil Clennan
nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7771 alt.aquaria:5181
From: biow@cs.umd.edu (chris biow)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Adding iron (Was Re: Laterite -- Overdose?)
Date: 4 Oct 92 16:37:50 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Distribution: rec
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

I've had an interesting time adding iron to my plant tank. I
had been using Ortho Greenol, a terrestrial plant trace element
solution. In order to keep detectable levels of iron in the tank
(at least .1ppm), I had to add about .5cc of Greenol every
other day. Since Greenol is about 6% Fe by weight, I would
estimate that I added a total of about a gram of Fe, total.

I recently ordered some DuplaPlant 24 drops, and put 4 drops in.
The Fe level shot up to .5ppm, and fell to .2ppm over about
a two week period. Adding two more drops has kept the Fe level
around .3ppm for two more weeks.

Speculation: The vast majority of the Greenol Fe was precipitated
out by the last remnants of NovAqua in the tank water (though
I have switched to AmQuel for the last four months). It stayed in
solid form in the gravel, filter, or whatever. ALthough the
DuplaPlant 24 has _less_ iron per weight, it must have a
chelating agent that is lacking in Greenol (EDTA?). Thus, the EDTA
in the tank acts as a catalyst, dissolving the stored iron.
The EDTA breaks down slowly, at the rate of 50% per two weeks.

Does that mean that DuplaPlant 24 is better? Not really; it's
iron so expensive you might as well be purchasing gold. But at
the rate of a drop a week in a 55gal tank, it makes sense to
use it in conjunction with a cheaper source of iron. Like
a rusty nail, maybe...
From: itlm063@dino.ucdavis.edu (David M. Fernandez)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Need help with SW tank please.
Date: 6 Oct 92 04:19:52 GMT
Organization: Computing Services, UC Davis
Originator: itlm063@dino.ucdavis.edu

My wife and I want to set up a SW tank and have anemone and a feather duster
in it. Problem is we have only kept fresh water aquarium.

Moe Jr. book was recomended, and I plan on buying it this week.

Do any of you have any words of wisdom I should know before I 
take any steps ? I do not want to have any of the fish/animals die.

Thanks in advance. 

-David
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Subject: Re: Which to believe
Organization: nasa/gsfc
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 12:37:40 GMT

Folks, the only accurate thermometer is one for lab or photography work.  
Typically these are rated in + or - 0.1 degrees, or some such.  A good
one is from Kodak for use in color film processing. 

Take a reading with a good thermometer, note the difference between it
and, say, an LCD stick on and make a note of it.  The difference will
vary depending on room temperature.  For inside fish thermometers, the 
difference should not vary.

     mark
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: PLECO.NET.CURSE
From: cpbuehrer@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 30 Sep 92 02:44:46 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

>>FOR SALE:  PLECO CURSE PROTECTION CHARMS
>>
>>BUY YOURS NOW!!!  DON'T LET YOUR PLECO SUCCUMB TO THE PLECO.NET.CURSE!!!!
>>
>>For only 5 monthly installments of $19.95, we'll send you an authentic replica
>>charm originally used by the ancient Aztecs to protect the emperor's pet
>>plecos.  Simply drop the ceramic charm in the tank and your pleco is guaranteed
>>to be protected from the net.curse for a full year!!!
>>
>>Don't let your pleco be the next victim!!!
>>
>>(Master Card and Visas welcome...sorry, no COD)
>>                                           ^^^talk about a *LAME* fish joke!
> 
> This is the first I've heard of this curse.  Does it have anything to do with
> the fact that I found one of my plecos on the floor this evening, mummified
> and without eyes?  Stiff as a board, and dry as a two dollar...uh, I mean dry
> as a desert.


For real?  Actually there's a strange phenomenon that whenever someone mentions
their pleco here on the net...within 24 hours that pleco will meet its maker
through some bizarre twist of fate.

I've personally have this happen to me twice.  I had just bought two plecos (a
clown pleco, and a "butterfly" pleco) and I asked for info on caring for them
by posting a message here.....and the next morning they were freshly dead!  The
water was perfect...not a thing wrong with the other fish in the tank either. 
The plecos just up and died!

Ever since then though, I've had fantastic luck and I've totally avoided the
curse.  I've had this clown pleco (in a 10g) for over 15 months.  I've got a
"rhino pleco" in another 10g tank (with baby bettas to keep it company) that
I've had for two months or so.  And I've got a mango pleco (cost me $80!) that
I've managed to keep alive for 2 weeks now.

Anyway...I'm sure other people could tell you even worse stories about their
dealings with "the curse"...  Some say, even if you say the word pl*co, that
your fish is doomed.  Even if you're not talking about your pl*co specifically,
you are far from immune from the curse!!!


You have been warned.

--Dennis
From: Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: The *MONSTER* ?
Distribution: world
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:00:10 EDT
Organization: The QuBE BBS

In a message dated Thu 30 Sep 92 19:48, Krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (k. Roge
wrote:

 KR> Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline) writes:

> PB> Patty Burleson published her article on _Tips to Keep the Reef Tank
> PB> Hubby Happy_.  I read it, looked at my family room, and realized that
> PB> she sure wasn't talking about *my* house.  I wrote a sarcastic
> PB> followup, and I now have evidence that FAMA will publish *anything*
> PB> they receive.  If anybody's ever had them reject an article, please
> PB> tell me about it, and I'll revise my opinion of them.
>
>Never got one refused ....
>
>But yours really wasn't that bad. I even chuckled a few times. Made me
sort
>of wish for a spouse who was even remotely interested in fish (besides 
>cooking them).
>
>Richard Brosseau

 KR> Yeah but you've put out some of the highest quality articles I've
 KR> seen
 KR> in that rag.  They are probably *really* glad to get articles of your
 KR> depth.  Well, ok, the stand article wasn't high-falutin' marine
 KR> science, but it was still useful.

Well, you need decent stands in order to support 14 tanks :^)

I'm still mustering up the energy to polish off my next article on drilling
8 tanks. All that effort has got to be worth something!

I really wish people like Moe would write more techy articles.
BTW, any word on his 2nd edition of The Marine Aquarist's Handbook. Is it
worth buying another copy of that book?

-- Via DLG Pro v0.992

Richard Brosseau
From home via flatline@qube.ocunix.on.ca
From: Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Coral spawning report
Date: 26 Sep 92 21:33:45 GMT
Organization: The QuBE BBS

In a message dated Sat 25 Sep 92  5:44, Steve@celia.uucp (steve Tyree)
wrote:

 ST> In article <1996@celia.UUCP> celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
 ST> writes:
->In article <Flatline.0lco@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca> Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca
(Flatline) writes:
->>OK, so it seems you've got good capacity to absord and even filter
waste.
->>Are the planeria getting swept into the filter?
->>Are they settling and if so, can you assertain at what rate?
->>(you may have already answered these questions to someone else, but I
->>missed
->>part of the discussion these past few months)
->
-> Its hard to say with certainty, just how many have settled or are
planulae.
->Many that did settle in the first day or two, later disappeared. The main
->difficulty with identifying them is their small size. I would guess that
of
->the ~300 pink/brown/green planulae that were put into the trays, I might 
->find what could possibly be 30 or more. Their are many forms of small
algae

From what I read elsewhere, the planulae are colonized by micro algae soon
after or even before settling. It is the micro algae that provides the
growth after settling. 

I don't remember everything about your tray set-up, but I seem to be under
the impression that the trays aren't as well lit as the main reef. If this
is so
(iff) then this could be the explaination as to why the settled planulae
are dissapearing soon after settling. I would think that it would be
usefull even to have the trays provided with even more light than the main
reef, in order to give a boost to the micro-algae....

-- Via DLG Pro v0.992

Richard Brosseau
From home via flatline@qube.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: spanton@oswald.cs.odu.edu (William Spanton)
Subject: Electronic PH Pens
Organization: Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA, USA
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 22:11:23 GMT

With prices continuing to drop, has anyone had any experience good or
bad with "electronic ph pens?"

Many Thanks

Bob Spanton
From: jj@alice.att.com (jj, all-around curmudgeon)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: New tank and fish deaths
Date: 5 Oct 92 15:14:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.23807
Reply-To: jj@alice.UUCP (jj, all-around curmudgeon)
Organization: NJ State Home for Bewildered Terminals

In article <1992Oct2.195725.11352@attain.icd.teradyne.com> brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter) writes:
>In article <1992Oct1.202052.21166@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>>In article <1992Oct01.175102.100554@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>>So you fill the tank with water, don't test to see if your gravel is
>>leaching something toxic into the water, did not allow the tank to cycle and

>Exactly what would you test for?  What kind of general water analysis kits
>would expect the beginner to own?  Enough kits to test for 'toxicity' could cost
>hundreds of dollars.
But it might pay to test for ammonia, despite the chloramine remover,
check pH, and see if it's headed up the scale toward limestone,
check for nitrite and nitrate, just on general principles, and use the
lousy chlorine test kit to be sure that the remover did its work.

Just for starters.  Everybody should have those test kits, and they 
cost about $20 for the lot.  AND someone who's set up a 110 can probably
manage to buy them, IF the aquarium store lackey suggests it and
can explain why.  Now, the fault I see here isn't just the tank owner,
it's quite hard to get good information until you find out about
Baensch and Moe's books, or something similar.  Particularly
hard from most pet stores.

>>water, did not isolate the fish for a few weeks to make sure they are
>
>Isolate?  He was trying to start a tank.  It takes just as long to start that isolation
>tank as the one the fish were put in.  Yes he should isolate new fish being added
>to an existing system but this was a new tank!
Yeah, BUT it is nice to not have to break down a new tank and bleach it
because someone sold you tetra disease or something else really rank.

>>Well, it's ONE way to break in the new tank.  Let the tank break in for 6-8
>>weeks, then satrt adding new fish.

>How to you expect the tank to 'break in' in 6-8 weeks with nothing in it?
Well, with the remains of the dead fish... :-)  I wonder about that,
too.  I've seen that advice elsewhere, and I wondered then, too.

>Sorry Oleg I know you have good info to offer but I think you response was 
>a bit strong, It sounds like the guy is trying to do things right and is asking
>for constructive advice not flames.
Um, well, perhaps after the 1023'd time one sees it, one's temper
gets a bit unsettled.
-- 
Extremism *Copyright alice!jj 1992, all rights reserved, except transmission
   in the    *by USENET and like facilities granted.      Said permission is
  defense of     *granted only for complete copies that include this notice.
 liberty is no vice.  *Use on pay-for-read services specifically disallowed.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: jmartine@zeus.calpoly.edu (Joe Martinez)
Subject: What are these?
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo
Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1992 04:24:00 GMT

  This afternoon, as I was walking through campus, and saw a tree with an 
indent in it, that was catching water from the sprinkler system. In this
little mini-pond, there were tons of these little black worm-like things.
They were about 1/4 of an inch long or so, and they were curled into a
circle. when I disturbed the water, they "swam" down to the bottom, and
resurfaced a few seconds later. 
  Can someone tell me:

a) What are they?
b) Do they make good fish food?
c) Could they cary parasites or other diseased into my tanks?
d) Can they be cultured?

Please answer ASAP, so that I can go get some if it's OK.

Thanks.
-- 
Joe Martinez  (jmartine@ares.calpoly.edu)
"When you base your life on credit, and your loving days are done, checks
 you sign with love and kisses later come back signed INSUFFICIENT FUNDS."
                                                           -Funkadelic
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Protein Skimmer and Elegance Corals
From: mark@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Mark D. Collier)
Date: 28 Sep 92 22:27:36 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute, San Antonio, Texas

I ended my search for the ultimate protein skimmer by buying a counter
current design from a local company. I was planning on buying a large
venturi, but the cost was more than I was willing to pay. The skimmer
I bought fits nicely in my sump, is driven by an available power head,
and depending on conditions, generates some of the worst looking
brown goop I have ever seen. For those following this thread, I can
send the address of the supplier if you are interested. Also, the design
is rectangular, so it would be a snap to build something similar yourself.
Let me know and I will send an ASCII sketch.

As my first invert, I bought an elegance coral for $15. It has large
white tentacles (?) with green highlights around a light violet body.
This is in contrast to other elegance corals at another shop which are
more attractive, with more color and much smaller tentacles (but they
cost over $50). At night it pretty much withdraws, but during the day,
expands dramatically. At first, I thought the expansion was abnormal
(because it is greater than what I saw at the pet shop), but now figure
this is a good sign.

Does anyone want to share their experience in the care and feeding
of these animals? I think they are about the best looking inverts I
have seen, but have heard that they are difficult to keep healthy (
as I have read is true with most hard corals).

Thanks, Mark
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: jwcoll01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Lighting
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 13:55:02 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Oct5.184348.27115@hubcap.clemson.edu>, bob@hubcap.clemson.edu (Bob) writes:
> Hi all!
> 
>      I have a question about tank lighting. I am setting up my third
> salt water tank and have aquestion about lighting. Up to know I have
> just been using the light that came with my tank hood. Is this
> sufficient? Right now I have damsels but, would like to put some
> butterflys or angel fish in the 75 and was wondering if the stock light
> will do?
> 
> Thanks
> Bob Staaf
> bob@hubcap.clemson.edu
>  

The lights that typically come with the aquarium hood are simply for viewing
illumination, not for photosynthesis.  If you want to grow alge or inverts,
you may want to invest in some full spectrum lighting.  I see that you are only
interested in fish, unless those fish are big algae eaters the standard bulbs
are fine.  Oh, one other consideration:  if the tank is very deep, more
lighting will be necessary for good viewing.  Sometimes poor lighting will
cause bad algae (like red algae) to grow.  Full spectrum bulbs get very
expensive quick, so watch out!

Joel Collins
Clemson U. alumnus
Go Tigers!
From: james@bilver.uucp (James Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Stands for Aquariums
Date: 26 Sep 92 03:55:45 GMT
Organization: W. J. Vermillion - Winter Park, FL

I am looking for Books, Articles, or just general directions
on building a stand for my 45gal aquarium.

Please Email your responses - I thank you and the net thanks you
James Anderson
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: lights, current from filter, fertilizer
Date: 30 Sep 92 01:35:08 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

che358w@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au writes:
>Is there any difference and which
>one is better for growing plants in a tank ?

There is a difference.  Blue causes dense, sturdy growth.  Red causes
tall growth.  Green is the primary frequency we see and is the way to
deliver the light intensity suffiient to cause plants to respire and
photosynthesize.  A mix of the 3 is needed.  You can get that mix cheaper 
by buying plant lights and wide spectrul white bulbs at a hardware store.

>current in the tank. Will the fish mind ? 

They may mind.  Scatter the current by splitting and buffeting the return 
flow.  Use one or more spray bars to achieve that.

>  Last question: do you think the squeezings from the power filter when I clean
>it ( it has those foam inserts) will make good fertilizer for the garden or

As long as you don't add salt to the water, it's unlikely to cause problems.
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria