HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: vivitar slide printer ?
Date: 4 Sep 1992 23:37:26 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


I am replying to the net as this is probably of general interest.

I use a Vivitar instant slide printer for just that purpose (polaroid
transfers) and it works fine...you get a minimum crop choice, and the
image quality is very good.

I copy slides onto warm, wet Arches 90 lb paper from Polaroid 669 pack film
separating the negative after about 10 seconds of processing.

There is some exposure control (one stop over and two under in half
stop increments...I have found that some slight overexposure is good for
cleaning up the "whites" which are always some tone of beige.

Soak the paper in water for about 30 seconds, place in newspaper or
equivalent paper bed, wipe off excess surface water with a paper towel,
expose the image, peel apart after 10 seconds, and place the neg face down
on the paper.  Roll gently with a roller, and burnish with a balled
up paper towel, and allow the dyes to transfer for about 2 minutes..
then gently peel the neg off the paper and...wow!!!

brian
From: rune@cimsand.UUCP (Rune Riisnaes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Slave Flash Photography?
Date: 10 Sep 92 11:03:18 GMT
Organization: Cimage A.S, Sandvika, Norway.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao) writes:
:   
:   What does a slave unit do ? My understanding was that it is just
:   a light sensing device which is attached to the hotshoe of the
:   remote (off camera) flash. When the on-camera flash fires, the
:   slave unit senses this and triggers the off-camera flash, to which
:   it is attached. Someone on the net mentioned "....my slave does
:   not have a variable output...." 
:   
:   Isn't it the FLASH rather than the slave that needs to have variable
:   output ? For instance, if I were to set my VIVITAR 285HV at, say
:   1/4 th power and attach a slave to it, will it not produce 1/4 th
:   of the output ???

Yes, you can buy small light sensing trigger devices you attach to the 
remote flash hotshoe.  But you can also buy dedicated slave flashes, 
which is a flash with built-in light sensing triggers (often as the only
means of triggering the flash).  Some of these slave flashes runs on
batteries, other runs on AC mains.

:   A long time ago someone mentioned that a slave unit will trigger
:   the (off camera)flash only if the flash is set to "auto" mode. 
:   Is this what is meant by "....slave does not have variable 
:   output..."???  

Some flashes have manual adjustment of output. Normally in steps
of 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16.  

:   My requirements:
:   I have a Vivitar 285HV, Minolta 2800-PX (model number may be 
:   incorrect, but is dedicated for Minolta X-700). I would like
:   to use both of these as off-camera flash. A very small (cheap)
:   flash on-camera will be used to trigger the other two. So I 
:   will need two slaves, one for each off-camera flash. Correct ??
:   About getting exposure right, I'll learn as I go along.
:   All this for portrait photography. 

Or you can connect one remote flash to the camera with a sync cord, and let
the other be triggered by a slave trigger.  (That saves you from buying
the cheap flash, assuming your camera has a connection for a sync cord.
Well, you can always get sync cords with hotshoe contacts in both ends...)
Or you can connect both flashes to the camera with sync cords, if you
don't mind tripping over the wires from time to time :-)

-- 
Rune Riisnaes    E-mail: rune@cimage.no, rune@cimage.com, rune@cimsand.uucp
                 Cimage A.S,  Skytterdalen 6,  N-1300 Sandvika,  Norway.
                 Phone: (47-2) 54 90 40   Fax: (47-2) 54 58 40
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Subject: Re: Field Cameras
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 21:42:10 GMT

In article <1992Sep15.140617.12218@ohm.york.ac.uk>, rwt@ohm.york.ac.uk (Richard Taylor) writes:
|>What would those people experienced in 5x4 (and larger) recommend
|>for a budget (is there such a thing ?) field camera for soemone with
|>some medium format experience but nothing larger ?
Some of the early Linhof Technica (sp?) could probably be had for a reasonable
ammount.  Here in the US, I was able to pick up a Super Graphic press camera
and lens for $200us.  No rear movements, but most front movements, and a
revolving back.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Inrared Photog (was: ...+ Spider Webs)READ/NEW/FOLLOWUP
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 09:18:21 GMT

In article <4872@daily-planet.concordia.ca>, honna@cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna) writes:
> In article <cHl-NG#@engin.umich.edu> Robert.Drongowski@cc.umich.edu (Robert Drongowski) writes:

> non-chalantly popped open the cannister to show me that there was, in fact,
> a roll of film inside.  So, now I would like to know if there is any chance
> that the film has any useful life left in it.  Should I bother rolling it 
> through my camera?  How do I know what kind of infra-red film it is - 
> assuming that there is more than one kind?  How will I know what processing
> it needs if I can't look at the cassette? etc.
> 

The old Kodak IR films had a solid black plastic leader welded onto the film
to prevent light piping and fogging. This is a real problem with IR or Estar
base, add the two... :-(.

I used IE and IR with no problem years ago. Loaded in shade with a bit more
care than usual. ( not much )

~Paul
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:47:01 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Sep8.154701.5527
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <=8qn+5b.hchong@netcom.com> hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
>> 
>> There also might be some really fast action you would like to catch.
>> Hummingbirds, or something...
>
>I agree with the previous paragraph, but the latter might be a bit
>"not that true".  I believe at 1/8000th, the camera does not actually
>capture the whole frame within 1/8000th of a second.  Instead, it might
>say take 1/2000th of a second to take the frame, while taking portions
>of the frame at a time. 
>
>Let say the shutter moves downward.  At 1/8000th second, the upper leaf
>actually starts moving downward before the lower leaf hit the bottom.
>This will allow exposure done to portions of the frame at a time 
>("analogly", of course).  Therefore, catching fast action might not
>be completely true (or capable) at 1/8000th.
>
>Can anyone say what is the highest speed w/o the shutter doing the
>"portion-at-a-time" thing?  (specifically on F4s) 

Thats easy, its usually your fastest flash sync speed.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: What's "telephoto ratio"
Date: 15 Sep 92 22:18:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina

In article <BuL871.DBK@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca> bgbauer@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca (ben bauer) writes:
>>    World's first 1000mm autofocus lens.  Extremely
>>    compact, telephoto ratio of 0.58.
>>
>>So what is "telephoto ratio"?
>>
>>  -- David Jacobson
>
>physical lens length, the "telephoto ratio" is the ratio of
>the physical length to the focal length, in this case, this would mean that
>the 1000 APO is in fact about 58cm long.  580mm/1000mm = .58 
>
>My brochure puts the 1000mm lens at about 54.5 cm length, so factoring 
>in the mount and perhaps the over-estimation of focal length that
>has been noted in this group, the calculation is about right... with a 
>focal length of about 925mm which is about 10% short.

Is the back focus distance on a Nikon SLR somewhere near 3.5 cm, by
any chance?

That would simplify things a bit, and still make the marketeers a bit
more honest in the bargain.  (Listed and actual focal lengths are
usually a bit off, but not normally by this much.)





--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Of making many books there is no end...  |  What's wrong with chasing 
                       -- Eccl. 12:12    |  nebulae till 3 am?  |-(
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sala8864@hgc.edu (gustavo salas)
Subject: Re: Camera World
Organization: The Hartford Graduate Center
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 03:58:59 GMT

In article <182rljINNg2l@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> gduna@snafu.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (George Duna) writes:
>
>Any one have any recommendations buying from Camera World of
>Oregon.
>
>tnx
>geo
>
>==================================================================
>George Duna gduna@Sun.com


one of my office mates recently bought Nikon N6006 with lens and 
accssaries from them , and he has been happy so far. 
At least everything was as he was told on the phone ANd as advertised in P.P.
From: mandayrv@ucunix.san.uc.edu (The Karate Kid)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Wedding photography
Date: 10 Sep 92 20:11:25 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Cincinnati

Hi folks,

I would appreciate any info and advice from photographers who have done some
sort of wedding photography (preferably at a large scale). I may be asked to
cover a wedding in the near future. I am only doing this out of friendship,
not for making any money. The people involved will pay me for all the
expenses involved (except my time).  I would like any and all
recommendations on the following:

	1) What kind of equipment to carry. Is a 35mm good enough ( I have one
	with me) or do I need a 120mm format (which I will have to rent)

	2) What are the options I have for flashes and power supplies for them
	(enough to last about 500 charges, with fast recycle times)

	3) Any other equipments such as flash brackets, portable reflector
	umbrellas, flash mounted softboxes, etc

	4) How many rolls of film (35mm or 120mm)

Thanks in advance to all the folks who reply. If anybody needs it, I will
have a copy of all the summaries that I can post/email.





-- 
  mandayrv@ucunix.san.uc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: drraymon@watdragon.uwaterloo.ca (Darrell Raymond)
Subject: Re: New Canon mentioned on CBS This Morning
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:10:42 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.170224.8868@kodak.kodak.com>, axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman) writes:
> 
> I think this is the ultimate in the "point-n-shoot" philosophy. 
> My idea was to have a pair of glasses or something, so the individual could 
> take a picture of whatever they were looking at without having to raise a 
> camera and compose.  This would be ideal for catching those unannounced 
> action shots that I keep missing :-(

  This sounds intriguing, please elaborate.  Is the camera in the glasses?
(vision of a Kodak disc camera sticking out of the side of my head, people
shrieking "it's a Borg" as I enter the room)  Or is it separate?  In the 
latter case, how does it figure out its relationship to the glasses?

-Darrell.
From: pojee@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: FLD filters with Flash photography !!!
Date: 13 Sep 92 02:07:58 GMT
Reply-To: pojee@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu ()
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Originator: pojee@happy.cc.utexas.edu


	Hi network readers ,

		If we shoot in presence of flourescent light with a 
	flash set to 'through the lens' reading then the snaps turn
	out to be green in the background. Can we use FLD filter
	even while taking such flash pictures
		Do we have to go for 2 stop overexposure when doing
	so? I am asking this because when seeing through the viewfinder
	I find the scene to be very dark? Same happens with the 80A
	filter. 

		Does the presence of filter degrade the object we are
	actually shooting at (even though it might bring out background
	colours fine without greenish cast).

		Does anybody has answers to these questions? I will be
	very thankful for replies.

						Pankaj Bishnoi.


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fmaster@chopin.udel.edu (Fred A Masterson)
Subject: WANTED: Pentax Spotmatic
Organization: University of Delaware
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 03:43:24 GMT

Please email or phone if you have an old Spotmatic you'd
like to sell!

Fred Masterson      fmaster@chopin.udel.edu
302 831 2575
   

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: goldis@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Al Goldis)
Subject: Re: Canon Macro Lens Mount Converter FD-EOS
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 18:25:07 GMT

In <1992Aug28.043418.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:

>In article <1992Aug27.062814.21841@jyu.fi>, konkkola@jyu.fi (Markku Konkkola) writes:
>> Hi!
>> 
>> Is there anybody, who has some experience with this converter?
>> 
>> What is focusing range with FD 200 Macro, FD 50 Macro and TS 35?
>> (It's extension id 134.93 mm)
>> 
>> How does this stopped-down metering work? (I have EOS 1 and 10)
>> I have heard, that it can't be used with EOS 10, but I don't believe it. 
>> 

>If you mean the made by Canon EOS-FD converter, I have the Tech note for it
>at home and could post it later. I do remember that the 200 f4 macro WON'T
>fit. It was them lens I was looking at at the time.

I thought it would work with the "Macro Lens Mount Converter FD-EOS".
There is another (non macro) FD to EOS converter for long lenses that
is available only from Canon Professional Services.  The 200 macro
lens is not one of the lenses listed as working with it.  Maybe that's
the one you're thinking of.

In the EOS System Accessories brochure it describes the Macro Lens
Mount Converter as:

   This is an exclusive close-up-use mount converter which allows all
   FD lenses, and also FD close-up accessories such as the Auto
   Bellows and Photomicro Unit to be attached to EOS cameras.
   Autofocus is not possible.  Manual exposure or stopped-down AE is
   possible for exposure control.  Also, light metering considerations
   require use of laser-matte type focusing screens.*

   * Macro ... Converter cannot be used with EOS cameras with fixed
   focusing screens, including the EOS 10s, EOS Rebel/Rebel S, EOS
   750, EOS 850, and EOS 700.

I would hope the 200 works with this converter.  If not, the least
Canon could do is tell us.
--
Al Goldis           alan-goldis@uiowa.edu
"Pictures are moments truth, touched by light, that show character."
                          --Annie Griffiths-Belt
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sbertsch@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steve Bertsch)
Subject: Tri-X & D-76
Keywords: N+2?
Organization: University Systems
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 21:14:26 GMT

Anyone have any suggestions on getting a N+2 or so expansion from
Tri-X developed in D-76?
-- 
bertsch.3@osu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria)
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 20:22:14 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.172427.3243@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>In article <1992Sep9.022940.26307@PacBell.COM> jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria) writes:
>>>
>>>Having a focal plane shutter with fast moving curtains is useful since
>>>it allows you to have a high flash sync speed. Of course this means
>>>that the top speed of the shutter can be increased also, giving the
>>>camera manufacturer a marketing edge over the competition...
>>
>>Having fast moving curtains does not necessarily equate to faster flash
>>sync speeds. It is true that the newer 35mm SLR cameras can flash sync
>>up 1/250, but the typcial flash sync speed is between 1/60 to 1/125 on
>>most cameras.
>
>I'm not so sure about that......with the introduction of the Minolta 9xi
>and its 1/12000sec top shutter speed, the flash sync speed also increased
>to 1/300sec.
>
The key phrase or intent is that "most" 35mm SLR cameras fall within a
certain flash sync speed.  With the advent of newer technology, I am
certain the flash speed will increase.  It is funny though (to me) that
the old leaf shutter lenses have always had flash sync equating to the highest
shutter speed of the lenses, typically 1/500. :-)  The newer AF cameras
are just now catching up to late 1800 and early 1900 flash sync speed.
-- 
        ---------  John Gloria - jpglori@pacbell.com	--------	
 		"You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination
	       is out of focus."   -     Mark Twain
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni)
Subject: Re: question about night photography
Organization: The Department of Redundancy Department
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 22:45:05 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.230735.3340@bony1.bony.com> I wrote:

>(Note that if the sun does not
>co=operate tonight, you can always wait a few months; the sun's
>setting position changes with season.)

Obviously, the sun always sets in a more-or-less Westerly position, 
though it will move more North or South with the changing seasons.

I have yet to see the sun set in the East, no matter what the season.
:-) 

-- 
Jake Livni  jake@bony1.bony.com               Pat Paulsen for President
American-Occupied New York                    This year he has a real chance!
My opinions only - employer has no opinions.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao)
Subject: Re: Slave Flash Photography?
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 00:30:39 GMT

This discussion about slave units could not have come at a better
time. I am on the verge of buying some and am following this
thread avidly. However, I am now a little more confused, than
I was before. So here are my questions.
  
  What does a slave unit do ? My understanding was that it is just
  a light sensing device which is attached to the hotshoe of the
  remote (off camera) flash. When the on-camera flash fires, the
  slave unit senses this and triggers the off-camera flash, to which
  it is attached. Someone on the net mentioned "....my slave does
  not have a variable output...." 
  
  Isn't it the FLASH rather than the slave that needs to have variable
  output ? For instance, if I were to set my VIVITAR 285HV at, say
  1/4 th power and attach a slave to it, will it not produce 1/4 th
  of the output ???
  
  A long time ago someone mentioned that a slave unit will trigger
  the (off camera)flash only if the flash is set to "auto" mode. 
  Is this what is meant by "....slave does not have variable 
  output..."???  
  
  My requirements:
  I have a Vivitar 285HV, Minolta 2800-PX (model number may be 
  incorrect, but is dedicated for Minolta X-700). I would like
  to use both of these as off-camera flash. A very small (cheap)
  flash on-camera will be used to trigger the other two. So I 
  will need two slaves, one for each off-camera flash. Correct ??
  About getting exposure right, I'll learn as I go along.
  All this for portrait photography. 
  
So will some kind soul please alleviate my ignorance ????
  
Thank you.
  
G.S.K. Rao <rao@ccm.umanitoba.ca>,<rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca>
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: EMERGENCY help needed before 5 pm 9-7-92
Date: 7 Sep 1992 11:52:47 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Shooting fireworks is really quite straightforward..here are some tips:

(1) APERTURE - the rule of thumb (from the Kodak Professional guide -which
I use and which works) is an aperture of about f8 for ISO 100 film.  
Thus...if you use ISO 50 film set the aperture at 5.6 and if you use 400
film set the aperture to f16.

(2) FILM - this depends on end use..if you want prints only shoot color
neg film..if you want slides (and projected images of fire works are very
impressive on the big screen) use transparency film..with the added plus that
you can get reversal prints made at some point, or get the slides duped onto
print film..

(3) LENS - I would suggest a moderate wide angle lens, such as a 28 or 35 mm
on 35mm format, or a 50 mm on 2 1/4 format.  I have shot fireworks with
a 38mm biogon Hasselblad, and they were very nice if you let a lot of
bursts go off in each frame..

(4) EXPOSURE TIME - this is NOT related to the brightness of the image as
your aperture setting is doing that..remember, fireworks work like a flash
bulb,,so aperture is everything.  Rather decide how many blasts you want on
each frame (at least 3 is nice) and expose accordingly (now you see the need for
a wide angle lens...)

(5) COMPOSITION - set up your camera to look up and into the centre of the area where 

where the fireworks will be blasting in full glory..on the first few bursts
just use the opportunity to get set at the best spot in the sky, and then
you will probably be able to keep the camera in more or less the same
position.

You will need a cable release or have to set your shutter to "T".  If the
time between blasts is long, simply cover over the lens with a hat or
something between blasts.

Use a tripod at all times!!!!

Good luck!

brian
From: wave@media.mit.edu (Michael B. Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Maxxum 9xi - good mail order experience
Date: 14 Sep 92 05:21:10 GMT
Organization: MIT Media Laboratory

Well, after being the happy owner/operator of a Minolta Maxxum
9000 (with Super Program Data Back & AutoWinder) for about five
years, I rejoiced when Minolta came out with their new autofocus
pro body, the 9xi.  I've been following this forum for several
years, and haven't had the need to take advantage of the mail 
order survey posted here.  In this case I finally did, so on the
recommendation of the survey, I called Camera World of Oregon
and ordered the Maxxum 9xi last Tuesday.  They gave me a stellar
price ($699) and gave me several options for shipping.  I chose
the two day FedEx for $20, and the package actually arrived the
next day, Wednesday, late morning.  The camera works beatifully,
arrived with a full US warranty and unravaged box (i.e strap and
other small parts included).

Just thought I'd add my datapoint for the survey - Camera World
of Oregon is great!  Just comparison, I looked around at some local
places (Hunt's Drugs and Lechmere) and the 9xi is $899 there.

I love the 9xi, although I've only put a few rolls through.  Anybody
in the market for a used 9000 body, Super Program DataBack and Auto
Winder?

later.




-- 

-->  Michael B. Johnson
-->  MIT Media Lab      --  Computer Graphics & Animation Group
-->  (617) 253-0663     --  wave@media-lab.media.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Canon EOS Elan
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 16:21:23 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.195610.24529@newshub.sdsu.edu>, guest@voyager3.sdsu.edu (Guest User) writes:
> Will someone please tell me which issue of Popular Photography carries
> the specs or test report of Canon EOS elan ? Does it have manual override
> options ? Any other info on the camera would be be very much appreciated. 
> All critical comments welcome. I am planning to buy the camera.
> 
It has full manual, as do all EOSs. Don't get it if you EVER want to use Infra-
Red film though. Personaly, I would get a 10 instead. BTW, I have heard that
a new 10 is in the pipeline. It is rumored to have an IR eyetracking sensor
of some type to control which AF zone/zones are active... Trat as pure rumor
for now...

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo