HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Old Finishes/Refinishing
Date: 7 Jan 93 21:45:59 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM writes:
Line lengths are a little too large for me - perhaps you could keep it
down to 80?
>Before you do anything else, try to verify if the "flaking finish" might 
>really be
>a "flaking REfinish"...the leaves of such a table are frequently used for 
>special
>occasions, and it is the "end" pieces that take a beating.  It is possible 
>that you
>have ends that have been refinished badly (as opposed to the original 
>finish having
>deteriorated).  If so, the repair coat may have been incompatable with 
>the original
>coat, which is still under it on the wood...it may be possible to remove 
>the flaking
>coat and return to the original finish, which can then (perhaps) be repaired.
>
>JK

No, it is definitely all original finish.  I know this as only part of
the really bad leaves have the finish in this condition; other parts are
still prtty good, and match the rest of the leaves too closely for it to
have been a refinish.

I haven't tried the denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner yet (as I didn't
have either on hand) but I did use some paint stripper on a small spot to
see how it would fare and discovered something interesting. It seems the
finish is, in fact, in two layers and where it is flaking off is only
the first.  Where I am able to scrape the finish off, a dark brown wood
is left.  Where I applied the stripper, the wood is left much lighter and
obviously raw.  I had thought the darker was the raw wood since it was
a veneer; clearly I was wrong.  This second layer contains most, if not all
of the stain color (it looks like the wood was never stained directly).
It seems clear that I'll have to use a stripper to get the finish off
sufficiently for a refinish.

BTW, I neglected to point out that this condition is present in some other
old pieces of furnature I have (a chair, dresser, and treadle sewing machine)
so I assume it was a common method at one time.

Dave

-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: richard@TIS.COM (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: If you were going to start a small wood shop...?
Date: 6 Jan 93 18:16:01 GMT
Reply-To: richard@TIS.COM
Organization: Trusted Information Systems


Hello again Y'all!

	Thanks for all the responses to my question on how to dry wet wood
without cracking... It would appear that PEG (polyethylene glycol (sp)) would
be my best bet for the purpose intended... Thanks again!

	The real topic though, is: If you were going to start up a small
wood shop, making tables (coffee, end, dining) and such... Say about a three
man operation (three real hands-on woodcrafters, overhead and support staff
extra)... What tools would you buy/find-most-useful/need? Assume a reasonable
budget, not shoestring, not unlimited. Assume also that one would be using
some *really* raw wood... like starting from a tree with the bark still on it.

	As far as I can tell, most of the obvious ones (to me) would be:

	table saw, band saw, scroll saw, radial arm saw, table router,
lathe(s) (especially the type that automatically make copies), planer,
chain saw, joiner, lumber mill (the small kind that makes planks from a
tree, don't know really what its name is), drill press, hand drills, hand
router, lots of different clamps, stationary belt and disk sanders, belt
sander, finish sander,...

	What would be missing? What else would help speed things up while
still keeping the end product mostly hand crafted? What tools would help put
a few nice finishing touches on the end product?

	If anyone has done/is doing this already, the advice would be greatly
appreciated! Thanks!

					Richard H. Clark


-----------------------Relativity Schmelativity-----------------------------
 Richard H. Clark				My opinions are my own, and
 LUNATIK - watch for me on the road...		ought to be yours, but under
 It's not my fault... I voted PEROT!		no circumstances are they
 richard@tis.com				those of my company...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Need Pinewood Derby Track plans
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 14:09:25 GMT
Summary: book on making skateboards, scooters, and racers

In article <8090023@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com>, rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason) writes:
> Anyone have contruction plans for a Pinewood Derby track for Cub Scouts?

I don't have info on a track, but I recently bought the book "Easy-to-
Make Skateboards, Scooters and Racers - 11 Inexpensive Projects,"
by William Jaber.  It is published by Dover, copyright 1976, and
sells for $5.95 (ISBN 0-486-25376-7).

With 174 diagrams, the woodworking projects in this book are aimed
at children.  There's nothing fancy -- no routed edges, rabbets etc.
Projects are built from boards, wheels, threaded rods, and scavenged
roller skates using only hand tools.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
From: rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 00:44:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: Hewlett Packard CPCD, Sunnyvale CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

This post reminds me of a true story a friend told me of when I was in college.
His father and him were going to go out one morning and buy some new suits of
clothes.  His father had been working on a project and wanted to make "one
quick cut" on the table saw before they went shopping.  His quick cut
splintered and shot a sizeable piece directly into one eye.  My friend 
witnessed this first hand and added a few extra details of gore which I
will omit.  His father lost his eye.

I always think of this story whenever I am tempted to do something 
without safety glasses.  Norm is right on one account, "There is no more
important rule than to wear these, your safety glasses".

Rob

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: If you were going to start a small wood shop...?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:18:42 GMT

In article <9301061816.AA04854@TIS.COM> richard@TIS.COM writes:
>	table saw, band saw, scroll saw, radial arm saw, table router,
>lathe(s) (especially the type that automatically make copies), planer,
>chain saw, joiner, lumber mill (the small kind that makes planks from a
>tree, don't know really what its name is), drill press, hand drills, hand
>router, lots of different clamps, stationary belt and disk sanders, belt
>sander, finish sander,...
>
>	What would be missing? What else would help speed things up while
>still keeping the end product mostly hand crafted? What tools would help put
>a few nice finishing touches on the end product?

Finishing room
Dust collection system
Good advertising/marketing
Good bookkeeping
Air compressor (useful for air-powered tools)

Bill
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (response to...)]
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:40:22 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: LLNL

In article <C0FxtF.9K0@amd.com>, ben@angelo.amd.com (Ben Chang) writes:
> 
> In response to an article where someone's fingers get chopped off....
> 
> I've heard that you should take the finger and put it in a glass of milk
> or salt water then get to the hospital for surgery.  Does that sound right?
> 

Sorry about the previous post, I blew it.

The above is a bit of misinformation that could lose somebody their
chance at restoring their cutoff fingers, if they were unfortunate enough
to cut them off.  Putting the cutoff parts in any contaminating liquid
will probably eliminate chances of successful reattachment.  Don't do it.
The recommended procedure is to pack the parts in ice (quickly) and
proceed (quickly) to the nearest ER.  Let the pros handle any solutions
necessary.  And get someone else to drive if you can.  If you lose it
on the freeway, fingers may be the least of your problems.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jweiss@paintbrush.cgd.ucar.edu (Jeffrey Weiss)
Subject: Re: Transferring chip carving designs to wood
Organization: Climate and Global Dynamics Division/NCAR, Boulder, CO
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:05:38 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.145414.3040@wuecl.wustl.edu> jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen) writes:

>In article <1993Jan6.175255.191@ncar.ucar.edu> jweiss@paintbrush.cgd.ucar.edu (Jeffrey Weiss) writes:

>>Lay the photocopy (the original laser print may also work)
>>face down on the wood and brush solvent over the photocopy. 

>Can you be more specific on what kind of solvent? 

Paint thinner.


--
Jeff
jweiss@ncar.ucar.edu
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 19:54:21 GMT
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:

>I'll not post my point-by-point response to your post: perhaps by simply 
>reiterating my argument I can get you to address it, instead of all
>the side-show nonsense about running assmebled drawers through planers,
>power jointers producing finishes as good as a hand plane, et. al.:

   I have read a lot of postings in this newsgroup, and I have posted
   a fair amount and had many replies to my postings.

   I believe this response is one of the most rude and irritating
   responses I have read to date.   I used to enjoy posting to 
   rec.woodworking because people are so civil, and the tone, even 
   when disagreement is expressed, tends to be more of a sharing, and
   "to each his own" kind of attitude.

   When someone calls my ideas "side-show nonsense", I get really mad.

   I have tried to be friendly, and to indicate that what I post is
   my opinion, and that for the way *I* work, *I* could do without a
   planer but not the jointer.

   I have also tried to allow leeway for other styles of work.  I have
   posted that Bennett may work differently and has different needs and
   that his comments are also informative.

   Unfortunately, some people believe they have a direct line to God
   on how to do woodworking (and I suspect everything else as well), 
   and the only right way is THEIR way.

   Bennett INSISTS that a thickness planer is what you should buy
   first.   There it is.   Anyone who argues with this will be 
   subjected to the above type of rhetoric.

   You win.  I am no longer interested in this discussion.

>PS: If you want my point-by-point response, provide a valid email
>    address. 

   I don't want your point-by-point response.  I couldn't be less
   interested.

>Others on the net have pointed this out to you as well.

   Oh my goodness.   I had better drop everything and get busy
   fixing this because "Others on the net have pointed this
   out to me as well."

   Let's see:  1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10.   There, I am calmer.

   You, sir, have NO right to make a criticism about this.   Posting
   to rec.woodworking is the LAST thing on my agenda.  Before I do
   that, I do my work first.  Yes, I have a REAL job.    

   It turns out that the machine I read usenet on is different from the
   machine I read mail on.   I have just transferred and moved from one
   set of machines to another, and the forwarding mechanism has not yet
   been set up.

   Your mentioning of this as a criticism is ENTIRELY out of line and
   ENTIRELY in keeping with the character of your postings.

   My email address is gph@zeppelin.pa.itc.hp.com, for those of you
   out there who want to send me mail.   As for Bennett, please don't
   bother as I probably will remove it without reading it.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kfitzsim@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kevin Fitzsimons)
Subject: Re: DeWalt Biscuit Joiner = ELU Biscuit Joiner?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:38:15 GMT

In article <m872s--@rpi.edu> ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
>Well, I haven't had any experience with the ELU but from discussions
>and from some pictures I'd seen I would think that these are quite
>different animals.  I do have the DeWalt and am VERY happy with it.  I
>have also heard nothing but good things about ELU in general.  B&D
>does distribute both lines.  The DeWalt is definitely US made, I think
>the ELU is European (Swiss??).
>
>The DeWalt plunge mechanism is a straight rail system, it is my
>understanding that ELU likes to use the arc approach.
>
>I know the DeWalt is a great tool and would imagine the same about the
>ELU but I think the salesperson you spoke with may have made too many
>assumptions about the B&D/DeWalt/Elu relationship.
>
>But then again I'm not familiar with Elu model numbers and could be
>wrong.  I do know that the Elu wouldn't be bright safety yellow and
>have DeWalt printed on it :^> .
>
>Eric.
>--
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
>New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
>Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590

Eric,

Fine Woodworking just had a review of the Dewalt / Elu BJ. They are indeed the 
same machine. You are thinking of the "original" Elu bj. That is a different 
animal.

Kevin
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 12 Jan 1993 13:13:54 EDT
From:         CELLIS@BROCKVMA.BITNET
Subject:      Dovetail cutting & FWW

Well, I just picked up the October 1992 Fine Woodworking at the Library
last evening - and read the "Machine-cut Dovetails" arcticle by
Mark Duginske.  Anybody tried it yet?  Sure looks promising - and (other than
using up scrap to perfect the technique) inexpensive.

***********************************************************************
Carlton Ellis                  *   BITNET CELLIS@BROCKVMA
Administrative Computing       *
State University of New York   *
College at Brockport           *
***********************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re: Where to shop in Atlanta?
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:57:17 GMT

In article 3Kv@athena.cs.uga.edu, mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
>Where are the good places to buy woodworking tools, furniture-grade
>wood, hardware, accessories, etc., in the Atlanta area?
>

In Atlanta, check out Highland Hardware, on North Highland Ave., in the
Virginia-Highlands district.  For hardwoods, go to Carlton's Hardwoods on
Hemphill Ave.  near the corner of 14th street.  Another interesting place is
Redmond and Son - who sell new and used equipment - they are out in the
Fulton Industrial Drive area.  Check the phone book.

Walt


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re: squiblet flurbigator
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:20:18 GMT

In article 11693@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com, kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) writes:
>I don't know...  Once you get a squiblet flurbigator and start using it you'll wonder 
>how you ever got along without it.  If you buy the AMT, you'll wish you would have
>spent the extra dollars for the Delta, especially when you have to replace its plastic
>flywheel regularly (Can't beat that Delta cast platinum-rhodium flywheel!!!)

Is a squiblet flurbigator anything like draw knife?  I've never heard of one, but I
was thinking of using one to joint boards for my new dining room table made of
solid Brazillian Rosewood (bought it cheap from a guy in Miami - but that's another
story).  Anyway, I saw this stuff about squiblet flurbigators on the net, and I
thought that might be even better than a draw knife, but I'm concerned about the
plastic flyweel - wouldn't it be better to buy an american made one - they should
be made of cast-iron!  Isn't that better?  Also, is a squiblet flurbigator better
than a plain old flurbigator?

Hey, while we're on the subject - what are the safety issues when using a flurbigator?
A friend of mind bought a draw knife the other day and told me he it didn't come
with kick-back prawls!  I told him I'd just use a push-stick and then I wouldn't have
to worry about it.  Anyway, he said he was going use it with his lathe for making
turned bed-posts, but I said a jointer plane would work better.  HEY!  maybe a
flurbigator would be better still - if they come with the kick-back prawls (they
do, don't they - or are they only on the squiblet variety?).  In any event, I
guess you could get add-on kick-back prawls,  I think Beastmayer makes 'em.  I
KNOW they do for a draw knife!

Anyway, what I really wanted to post about was this stuff about Delta using
"cast platinum-rhodium" flywheels in their flurbigators.  Give me a break!
They're actually forged aluminum with platinum-rhodium plating!  Anyone who
reads rec.crafts.metalworking would know you can't build cast platinum-rhodium
parts! The forward crystalization structure would make the thing heat up like
crazy!  Sheesh!  Anyway, I cross-posted this there and to alt.stuff.silly, just
so everyone else would know that *I* didn't make such a mistake!

Sorry for the minor flames, guys, I *know* this is rec.woodworking, but hey,
when you're right, you're right!  No?

Walt


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Who builds "Task Force"?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 00:59:44 GMT

Santa Claus brought me a "Task Force" (Lowe's house brand) 9-inch
drill press.  The quality of it appears to be quite fine for my
purposes.

I'm wondering who builds it; is it built by Delta, or by the same
factory that builds Delta tools?  Many of the parts appear to be
identical to the Delta 8-inch, which however is more sturdily built.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: saksa@col.hp.com (Tom Saksa)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Date: 5 Jan 1993 00:01:24 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdmj.col.hp.com

I seem to recall someone asking about resawing on the Delta three wheel
16 inch bandsaw.  I have this saw, and while I was out over the holidays
I did some resawing on mine, but the post has expired on my system so
I will post the results here.  I hope that it is of general interest.

I tried resawing a variety of woods using the standard delta blade for
this saw.  I was making some boxes and used a variety of woods from pine
to hickory.  Most of the resawing was with stock from 2 to 4 inches
thick.  Strangely enough I had the exact same bowing problem that the 
poster mentioned with the blade tending to bow to the right.  The saw was
set up to the best of my ability and the only way to get rid of this bow
was to set the fence so that the wood feed at approx five degrees from
parallel to the blade.  

While I was at the local Delta sales/service center for another purchase,
I mentioned the problem I was having.  The service rep pointed out that
the standard delta blades for the three wheeled saw do not do a good job
resawing because they are that shiny spring steel, thinner and more
flexible to reduce metal fatigue over the smaller wheels, and do not have
the correct tooth pattern for what I was doing.  

He sold me two new blades to try cut from bulk stock.  The blades he
recommended I try were a 6 TPI hook tooth, and a 4 TPI skip tooth.  I
took them home and both worked very well.  He said that these blades may
not last as long on the three wheeled saw or may not get tentioned well
enough, but I was happy with the results and made lots of sawdust without
any problems.  

I guess this just underscores the importance of using the correct blade
in a bandsaw!
From: tp923021@jarrah.canberra.edu.au (ben elliston)
Sender: gateway@f262.n620.z3.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wood magazine
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:34:00

Does anyone have the fax number for Wood magazine?

Thanks!

From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:06:10 GMT
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How to use waterstone?
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:53:17 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

I would not use bleach because it tends to be very corrosive to metal.  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Terry.Baldridge@launchpad.unc.edu (Terry Baldridge)
Subject: Bench Top Tablesaws
Summary: Time to find a new one. 
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 21:34:45 GMT

My old Sears benchtop saw has died.  I can not seem to keep it in tune
for more than a couple of cuts.  Since I still live in a condo with no
storage space to speak of, I find myself looking for another benchtop
saw instead of a 'real' saw.  Anyone out there with any comments to
make about these saws feel to air them.  I have leaned strongly towards
the AMT saw, but I am holding that idea in check with all the recent
AMT talk going on.

terry
--
terry.baldridge@bbs.oit.unc.edu   ---   xp2729@lsuvm.sncc.lsu.edu
               BMW: The Ultimate RIDING Machine

--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Annie Fetter <fetter@forum.swarthmore.edu>
Subject: Imitation rush for chair seats?
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7730FEA2801410C@olmo.swarthmore.edu>
X-Xxdate: Fri, 8 Jan 93 11:03:06 GMT
Organization: The Geometry Forum
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d11
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:04:21 GMT

I got a great deal on three ladderback chairs (two different yard sales,
the three chairs match!), but of course the seats are shot.  I want to
put new rush seats on them.  I know there are a lot of kinds of imitation
rush.  What I want to know is if the stuff I can get at the local craft
shop, which is called 'kraft paper' and is designed for cute stuff for
the home, will work as seat rush, or will it just disintegrate when I
soak it.  It even comes in different colors :-)

Thanks!

	-Annie