HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mlcole@nevada.edu (Michael L. Cole)
Subject: Re: My God! My cylinders just went on strike!
Organization: SCS-DataComm
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 20:13:43 GMT

   I had a problem with my '85 Golf that I thought was a missing cylinder.
It would only occur during very cold mornings and eventually would go away
once the I had it on the road for 10 to 15 minutes.

   It turned out the fuel flow value was passing fuel from the tank transfer
pump to the fuel injecter system above the air cleaner at a constant 80 PSI.
My mechanic said that the value was suppose to reduce the flow to about 40 PSI
at low speeds and gradually open up to 80 PSI at highway speeds.  It cost me
a little over $350 -- had to have it flown in next-day air from L.A.
From: jmalloy@picard.acs.calpoly.edu (James Malloy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 67 Bug for sale
Keywords: vroom!
Date: 8 Apr 92 18:02:40 GMT
Organization: Cal Poly State University, San Luis Obispo

Hello.
I've got a '67 VW Bug that has been sitting in the garage for the past 5  
years (but it gets a drive around the block every now and then). Cream,  
with new headliner & back seat, and basically a really nice original car.  
No dents, paint in fantastic shape.  Wheels are vintage Porsche chromies  
with chrome VW caps and new tires (less than 2k miles).  Engine was  
rebuilt less than 5k miles ago, with mild cam, dual single-port baby  
webers, and a glasspack w/header exhaust system--for a little more oomph.   
All work done by professional Porsche mechanic.  From what I know, I'm the  
third owner, and bought it back in high school as a restoration project.   
Tuition is rising, and the car has got to go.

Asking $3,000--somewhat negotiable.

However, if you've got a motorcycle that you might want to trade (CBR600,  
EX500, ZX-6) that's relatively new and in good shape, let's talk...

email to jmalloy@calpoly.edu.
Thanks in advance!
From: jbr1@Ra.MsState.Edu (Jarryl B. Ritchie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: POOR COLLEGE STUDENT READ THIS!!!
Date: 16 Apr 92 14:36:47 GMT
Organization: Mississippi State University

I have not found the bus to be any problem in the winter other than the 
standard problem of VWs not being real good with heating.

The bus offers tons more storage room than either of the other two candidates.
This allows you to share trips with more people thus cutting down on your
costs.  It has a reasonable towing capacity, if you need additional room to
move things.

You can sleep comfortably in a bus.  This saves the starving college student
mucho $$$.  Simply pull in at a truck stop, pull up next the other trucks whose
drivers are sleeping and pretend that you have 14 more wheels.  That will save
you from $29.00 upwards a night.  Its kinda like using KOA campgrounds.  Some
truck stops have showers also.

The bus gets reasonable gas mileage for cars of its age, and considering the
cubic footage that you haul around, I am pleased.

Please don't stike the bus so casually from the list of prospectives.

Granted, being a high profile automobile the bus is affected by winds.  However,
common sense and alert driving easily overcome this problem.  Its like having 
a convertible,  when it rains you put the top up.  When the wind is blowing and
you are driving the van, you simply drive for the wind conditions like you do
in any other car.  NO BIG DEAL!!

jay.
.
:wq
From: meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J Meltsner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Heater Core - What is it?
Date: 7 Apr 92 13:08:28 GMT
Reply-To: meltsner@crd.ge.com
Organization: GE Research and Development Center



|>>4) Is an '85 GTI affected by it?
|>
|>I think this may be in the correct time window, but I'm not sure.

My '85 Golf had one go.  I just received an answer from VWUS -- they
will pay for its replacement last year at an independent shop with a
non-VW heater core.  And the air conditioner recharge, extra coolant,
sales tax -- everything for ~$315.

Last year they told me they couldn't do anything for me since it was
done at an independent with non-VW parts.  (From what I've been
hearing about the plastic parts in the VW cores, perhaps my OEM part
wasn't such a bad idea.)  They've obviously changed their minds.
Probably a good time to hit them up for any un-reimbursed work, even
if they covered the bulk of it.

--
===============================================================================
Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391
GE Research and Development Center  | Fax:  (518) 387-7495
P.O. Box 8, Room K1/MB207	    | Nothing I say should be attributed
Schenectady, NY 12301               | to my employer, and probably vice-versa
=============== Materials Science Division, Gizmonic Institute=================
From: tjones@willamette.edu (Tyler Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Electric Bugs
Keywords: electric bugs
Date: 10 Apr 92 04:16:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: willamet.1992Apr10.041604.25170
Distribution: usa
Organization: Willamette University, Salem, OR

Does anyone out there have any experience converting Beetles to electric?  I
would really like to convert mine this summer, but would like to find some
information about it before then.  There exists literature on the subject, but
I fear that it has become outdated (approx 10 year old books detailing how to
do it and what parts to use: will the parts still be around? is there better
stuff by now? what about batteries?) and would like some new information.  If
anyone has either experience, or knows of sources of literature or parts (like
engines, batteries, whatever else you need for this kind of operation), I
would be very appreciative.  Please respond by e-mail.  Thanks.
tjones@willamette.edu
Xref: sparky rec.autos.vw:2421 rec.autos.tech:5920
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jetta quarter window problems?
Date: 16 Apr 92 16:30:25 GMT
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


Through my experience, the easiest thing to do is remove the window and replace
it with a new (or from the jy) moveable one, or replace it with a non
moveable one.  I do not know of anyone who has found a glue that will
work.

Removing the replacing the window requires taking the inner door panel out
and drilling out a rivet, but after you do 4 or 5, it gets easy.....

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/                 \___/
From: hlh5721@zeus.tamu.edu (HENDRIX IS GOD)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What does GTI stand for?
Date: 9 Apr 92 11:55:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr8.225438.10544@cs.dal.ca>, gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes...
>When I bought my car, and I was working on it with a mechanic, he casually
>asked me if I know what GTI stands for. Obviously I did not at that time.
>I said it has to do with the engine type or workings at that time. He said NO:
>	GTI - G ood   T oys   I nside
>I started to laugh. He said this is not a joke, you'll see! 
> 

GT stands for "grand touring"
I stands for injection (electronic fuel inj.)

so GTI stands for "grand touring injection"






LEE HUDDLESTON,                 
Texas A&M University,
College St. TX

"This views expressed are mine and are not necessarily those of
  Texas A&M University, its faculty, staff nor students"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: finnegan@corsair.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Subject: VW Keys
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems	
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 17:40:20 GMT
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-3337]: corsair.navo.navy.mil


I know this probably seems insignificant, but when I bought my
GLI (used), it came with two keys, both "store-made" copies.  I
would really like to get an original VW key made. (You know,
with the big black rubber grip.)  Anyway, I've been to three
dealers now, and they only have the flat metal replacement
blanks.  Anyone have any luck with other sources for
original manuf. key blanks?  Thanks,

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
From: DKAMERUD@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: What the $#&! is with the oil??
Date: 10 Apr 92 19:53:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: cmsa.167C5D18E.DKAMERUD
Organization: GM Research Labs

In article <1992Apr8.223046.9956@cs.dal.ca>
gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
>I looked on my dip stick and it looked like I need to add oil. So I open up
>the cap, look at it and say a few nasty words. The cap was all white on the
>inside! I look through the hole and see it all over inside. The white stuff
>is a dirty milky color, Very light gray. It feels like oil. i.e. It is NOT
>in clumps or like jello.
> What the &%$# is that stuff?

It might just be good old-fashioned wax, esp. if the weather & engine were cold
at the time.  About 20 years ago I had a Toyota that displayed creamy white
goo on exactly that spot every winter, from oil splashing up and the wax
congealing there.  The old timer who told me not to worry also knew without
asking that I was using Texaco Havoline brand oil.
From: toad@cellar.org (Tony Shepps)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 1992 GTI 16v
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:17:01 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

st883787@pip.cc.brandeis.edu writes:

> As I'm selling my car and going to be getting some $$ for graduation, I'd
> like to get a 16v GTI.  I've been following the discussion in rec.autos, and
> it seems that there are quite a few disgruntled owners out there.  I need 
> this car to be very reliable, I can't be running to the dealer getting all 
> sorts of things replaced, is the GTI going to be like that?

Yes, unfortunately, it's not the kind of car you can just buy and forget.
VWs do seem to be prone to nickel-and-dime you to death on lots of small
things that will go wrong.  If you can put up with that, you'll get the car
with the best fun-to-money ratio available.

>                            How are the GTI's in snow?  I'll be working in 
> Vail,CO next year, so there will be lots of snow.

Absolutely fantastic in the snow.  Although I live in a less harsh
environment than you will be, I have absolutely no fear of taking the GTI
out in blizzards.  The front-wheel-drive gets you excellent traction and the
high ground clearance gives you lots of room to work with.  A few years ago I
ran into a snow bank by accident; it took me five minutes, but I was able to
methodically dig the car out without leaving the driver's seat.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Tony Shepps      toad@cellar.org      (...{tredysvr|uunet}!cellar!toad)  -
- The Cellar BBS  +1 215 654 9184   Reliable hardware, responsible sysops, -
- and line no^se is nev^r a pr\377bl~{{{7z@#zz{K~o8f#         NO CARRIER
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Re: Where VW's are made
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 19:17:44 GMT

taylorb@fcs260c.ncifcrf.gov (Brent Taylor) writes:
> When I was looking around for a GLI, I made it clear to the salesmen that
> it come from Germany.  Upon looking at VIN numbers at serveral dealers and
> having one salesman check into it with VWOA, the conclusion is that ALL
> 2.0L 16V GLI A2 cars are made in Germany.

Right.  All Jetta 16Vs are currently built in Germany.

> I also remember a few years back when VW had Wolfsburg editions of Golf's,
> Cabriolet's, etc. that all the Wolfsburg editions were also made in Germany.

Right, in that all Cabrolets (always have been, and likely always will be)
are built at the Karmann factory in Osnabruck, Germany.

Wrong, in that all Wolfsburg Editions come off exactly the same assembly 
line as other models do.  The difference is in badging and equipment, not
in the place of manufacture.

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: greis@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Gayla Ann Greis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Experience purchasing 1992 VW GTI 16v (long)
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:04:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: uwm.1992Apr9.010411.13697
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

In article <1992Apr7.140429.4378@rdr.com> randy%rdr.com@uu.psi.com (Randy Tidd) writes:
>In article <31170010@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don  
>T. Borowski) writes:
>> What you need is a GOOD oil filter wrench.

>"Fine," you say.  "You probably didn't have a GOOD oil filter wrench."

Good read "Ring Compressor..." :-) :-) Actually, the funny thing is I
know a mechanic, who's son used his $120 ring compressor as a OF wrench..
Ouch!
From: Ralph.C.Lindenfeld@dartmouth.edu (Ralph C. Lindenfeld)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Weird Problem...
Date: 10 Apr 92 02:07:56 GMT
 <1992Apr6.170512.20364@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

I had a similar problem with my 81 rabbit many moons ago. It started
with random stumblings driving at highway speeds... later it graduated
to problems when I accelerated. Finally, it quit one snowy night... 
   I took the entire ignition and fuel injection system apart before I
found out that it was a plugged catalytic converter. 
   The engine would start real nice and then cut out within 4 seconds.
If I tried to start it soon, it wouldn't start at all, but if I waited
fifteen minutes or so it would run for 4 seconds again. I guess
backpressure built up and then leaked out... 
    I'd probably bet on John's diagnosis of a dirty fuel system
though...

 Ralph Lindenfeld
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: NEED phone # for J.C. Whitman?
Date: 15 Apr 92 13:51:28 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

dhbutler@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (David Butler) writes:

> I need the phone number for a mail order outfit called (I think) J.C. Whitman
> I could also use the address if the phone number is unknown.
> 
> Finally, could anyone recomend any magazines other than VW magazines they 
> advertise in? I can't seem to find any VW mags in my area :-(
> 
----

I duuno, everything Ive ever seen/gotten from then has..

rusted,
fallen apart,
rotted (rubber parts)
and was just pain crummy..

I can't recomend them, especialy after my friend put $400 with of JC Wit. 
parts in his 66 VW Bug Convert.  only it have *every* part fall to crap..

 .--.
< \/ > :Dan Reed - blu@cellar.org :  CI$ - 76346,3252@compuserve.com :  /\
\\/\// :Remember 99.4% are stupid!:   AnalCad Geek - VW Lover        : //\\
 `--'  :SysOp of the THYRATRON BBS:(609) 582-5410  - We know AutoCad!:///\\\
From: bryan@tekgen.bv.tek.com (Bryan Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Wax
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:14:42 GMT
Organization: Tektronix, Inc.

>	I have been using NU Finish for about a year on my Corrado and
>I get great results. The car shines well, and it is very easy to clean 
>now. I didn't get a gritty feel at all, but instead a very smooth silky 
>feel to the paint. It is also very easy to apply. I like it.

Me to.
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Steps wanted to revivify bug.  cpr??
Date: 16 Apr 92 13:14:27 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

In two weeks I will attempt cpr on my friend's vw bug.

He left it parked all last summer.  After 3 months of not starting he just
jumped in and drove off.  A few days of 10 mile trips later he noticed that
there was no oil registering on the dip stick (he sure felt like one at that
moment).  He put oil in and hasn't gotten it to start sence.  It slowly lost
power after that incident.

I have worked on my own bug for 2 years and need advice on what steps to take
to see if the car is salvageable/recoverable.  I am willing to spend 40 hours 
on it over the summer.  He plans to sell it for scrap now but I'm hoping to 
save it while buying it for the scrap price.

Thank you for your list of procedures to try.

--Tom Coleman          colemant@yvax.byu.edu
From: gt3441b@prism.gatech.EDU (Pete Presti)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Late Model Super Beetle Floorpan Quest.
Keywords: VW,beetle,floorpan,sheetmetal
Date: 16 Apr 92 04:37:17 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

I have a '74 Super Beetle which will need a floorpan.  I've made a few
calls to various body part dealers and I always get the same story:
It seems that a '74 floorpan doesn't exist in this country!  I'm told
that the thing to do is to modify an earlier one by welding on my 
three-point seat mounts in lieu of the existing rails, and attaching
a patch of metal to make up for the extra 6" of my frame.

Hm.  This strikes me as a Rube-Goldburg solution at best.  Can anyone
here point me to a place that sells a floorpan (both halves) for my
beloved car?  Are they available in Europe?  (If they are I'll need to
know by Sunday, April 19th.)

Thanks,
-Pete

gt3441b@prism.gatech.edu
 

-- 
Pete Presti
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt3441b
Internet: gt3441b@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: steve@aurora.com (Steve Anderson)
Subject: Re: Tell us about your Air-cooled VW!!!
Organization: The Aurora Group
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 16:41:23 GMT

My current project is a 1957 Oval Window. It was built on August 2,
1956 and was the 157th beetle made that year. (I really did write the
factory, and they promptly answered!)

It was rescued from a date with the crusher and is about 75% through a
complete pan-off, semi-stock restoration. When found, the car was very
complete, although just about every body panel in the lower 6 inches
of the car needed replacing. And the pan was completely shot.

The body was chemically stripped (went to the "dipper") and any rust
body panels were replaced with new. A '72 std. beetle was kind enough
to donate a pan.

Body & paint (1991 Toyota medium grey metallic) are all done,
mechanicals are all done (except the engine), we set the body on the
pan this past weekend, and I'm now reassembling it. (the fun but
expensive part).

--steve
-- 
 H. Stephen Anderson			 | email: steve@aurora.com
 The Aurora Group 			 | Phone: (415) 327-3001
 800 El Camino Real, Suite 200           | "If you are what you eat, then
 Menlo Park, California 94025            |  I'm dead meat..."  -- Timbuk 3
From: mjh@cs.utexas.edu (Michael J. Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Factory Authenticity (Was: Re: Tell us about your Air-cooled VW!!!
Date: 16 Apr 1992 15:28:56 -0500
Organization: U Texas Dept of Computer Sciences, Austin TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu


I don't know about where to write about Mexican VWs, but according to
my VVWCA Feb. newsletter:

For pre 1955 VWs, info on prod date, original color, destination,etc.) can
be obtained by writing to:

VW Brezelffenstervereinigung e.V.
Ernst Peter Hagen, Amselweg 4
D-3073 Liebenau, Germany

For post '55s write to:

Customer assistance
Volkswagen AG
Postfach
3180 Wolfsburg1
Germany

REMEMBER TO SEND YOUR SERIAL NUMBER WHEN WRITING!


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mccormic@eggplant.cis.ohio-state.edu (Mickey)
Subject: VW Superbettle Parts
Summary: I can't find 'em.
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 16:33:35 GMT



	I am unable to find some parts for a '72 Superbettle Convertible in any
dealership in Columbus, nor in any of my mail-order catalogs either.  My search
in area junkyards has come up empty too.

I am looking for:  Bumper guards(4 preferably)
		   The triangle window open/locking mechaninsm(I am told it is
			different from non-convertibles)
		   The long piece of plastic that screws into the header bow
			and secures the headliner to the top.

Any info is appreciated.  Thanks IA.

p.s. Is the term Superbettle Convertible redundant?  Are all convertibles
     Superbettles?


-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------
|Shawn McCormick  GPA 1.99 :^o     mccormic@cis.ohio-state.edu |
|MIS (6 year plan)          "Lonely things like nights, I find |
|NotAl's Too Staff           End finer with a friend"  N.Peart |
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: multi or single weight oil for type II?
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:02:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1992Apr13.180212.9849
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


As I'm doing a minor rebuild on my '77 bus engine, now's the time
to consider oils.  I've been using Pennzoil 30W on the assumption
that single weight oils are better lubricators.  Does net.wisdom
agree with this?  Or are the multi-grades just as good (for example
the 10W-40 Castrol that I use in my wife's Honda)?

In my bug I used the single weight too, mostly because I didn't want
as much metal-particulates in the oil because of the lack of an
oil filter.  The later (post 1972) type II's have a filter, so are
my worries gone?

Thanks!
Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 88 Jetta GL woes...
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:52:06 GMT
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


$1500 to repair the tranny is not the way to go.  As noted by the other DB,
get a used or rebuilt one and spend an afternoon swapping them. 

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/                 \___/
From: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: should I keep the car
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:12:59 GMT
Reply-To: pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
Distribution: rec
Organization: Field Robotics Center, CMU



My '83 Rabbit, 95K, (4 speed) is having a few problems:

1) The clutch is starting to chatter

2) The 2nd gear syncrhos are starting to go

3) Heater core may be leaking (when it warms up, I'll check the hoses)

4) Breaks are just starting to chatter a little in hard deceleration
   (warped rotors?)

5) Intermittent hard hot starting (I've been living with this for 2 years)

6) In the last couple days, intermittent run-on when I turn off the key

For 1 and 2, my local garage (VW specialists) recommended replacing
the clutch and installing a used 4 speed transmission.  They said that
their experience is that most 4 speed transmissions last nearly
forever, and that they could do both jobs (new clutch, used
transmission + labor) for $500 - $600 if done together.

My question is: is it worth it, or is this car reaching the end of its
lifetime?  I figure a few hundred more for the heater core (I doubt
VWoA covers an '83, though I will try), perhaps $100 for the breaks,
who know if I'll ever find the answer to #5 (I've checked a number of
things, next on the list are leaking fuel injectors - could this cause
#6 also?)  If I want to keep the car I would sink the $1000 into it
now, otherwise I would just drive it until it drops.  I'm heading in
the direction of grad school in about a year - so minimizing cost is
high on the list.

The rest of the car is in good shape.  There is practically 0 body
rust, my mechanic says the engine is in good shape (150 155 160 160).

Let me know what you think,
--
Paul Keller                     paul.keller@frc.ri.cmu.edu
Field Robotics Center           Phone: (412) 268-6563
The Robotics Institute          Fax: (412) 682-1793
Carnegie Mellon University
Pittsburgh, PA 15213