HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: larissa@finance.esd.sgi.com (Larissa Williams)
Subject: Re: reinhardtii (was Re: Lucky herp)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 19:17:08 GMT

In article <1992Apr16.043336.8570@news.eng.convex.com>, datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri) writes:
|> 	Rubber snake $n
|> 	(Calabaria reinhardtii)

Ya know - it's starting to sound like the best thing would be to ask the
manager of that pet store who it's supplier was, and what exactly did they
order.  And if 'rubber snake' was something _they_ came up with as a common
name.

|> Speaking of which, can someone please describe Nile and/or Savannah Monitors
|> for me?  I've yet to find a photograph of any monitor other than the Komodo.
|> >Anthony, what did you see?  I've forgotten the whole point of this

Nile's are cute, Savannah's are ugly. :-)  Sorry, I know that's not much use :-)
 
|> It's a timid-looking, cylindrical snake whose tank is labelled as indicated
|> above.  It's brown-blackish, with lighter occasional tannish-orangish spots.
|> There's no distinct neck to
|> speak of, and the eyes are very small and black.  This guy looks so lonely
|> that I may have to buy him.

I was initially going by the physical description when I agreed that it might
be a rubber boa, but now I'm reconsidering.  ???  If you buy him, you'll have
plenty of time to investigate :-).  Is he friendly?

|> The walnut shells amaze me, though.  I've seen ribbon snakes thrash feeder
|> fish around and end up swallowing adhered fragments.

Yeah - once one of my friend's green grass snakes missed it's cricket and
swallowed a stone.  I'm a firm believer in rugs/towels/and astroturf.  At least
this pet store doesn't use ceder chips, though I've never heard of anybody using
walnut shells.  One pet store I know uses pine shavings for transportation.

|> Dallas, though, *seems* to regard all boids as illegal, although I've
|> yet to track down ordinances to verify this.  Neighboring Richardson's
|> ordinances outlaw (and I quote) "dangerous animals".  If somebody thinks
|> that boid == dangerous, I'd like to introduce him to both this Calabar
|> and a Mangrove snake.
|> 
|> So, if I can find the Carpet Python that I have my heart set on, I'll
|> probably keep it at work (in Richardson) instead of home (Dallas)
|> until I get a house, which won't be inside of the bounds of Dallas.
|> 

Remember - It's only a problem if they catch you. :-)  Typical collage dorm
policy :-).  (Not that I'm advocating major illegal activities or anything.)

Smiles,
Larissa
Mt. View, California
From: gecko@zooid.guild.org (GECKO)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Leopard Frog Chow!
Date: 15 Apr 92 21:07:08 GMT


        Frogkeeper writes:
 
>guess the subject says it all...I have him and I'm curious 
>and what do I keep him/her in?  All water, 1/2 and 1/2? 
>Thanks, 

        The main diet of wild leopard frogs is grasshoppers, but
they'll also eat earthworms, flies, spiders, and crickets (which can
be bought at many pet stores).  Food must at least LOOK alive: if no
live food is available sometimes liver or beefheart on
a string/broomstraw does the job.

         An aquarium WITH A TIGHT LID should be fine, but they like
room to to leap (20-gallon at least if you plan on keeping it for
any length of time).  Half water, half land is fine or a large water
dish with the water changed DAILY. 

         Some wild-caught individuals do not adapt too well to
captivity.  If it doesn't eat, let it go.  Even if it does eat,
consider releasing it.  That is all...

                                                - GECKO


gecko@zooid.guild.org
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center
Date: Monday, 13 Apr 1992 18:54:49 EDT
From: <CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: What do you feed a leopard frog---QUICK!

Guess the subject says it all...I have him and I'm curious and what do I
keep him/her in?  All water, 1/2 and 1/2?  Thanks,

CT
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: donb@igor.tamri.com (Don Baldwin)
Subject: Re: Leopard Frog Chow!
Organization: TOSHIBA America MRI, San Francisco
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 19:55:14 GMT

In article <703378432.19865@zooid.guild.org> adam@zooid.guild.org
(Adam Lawrence Salter) writes:
>  I'll PAY you to let the frog go! 

How much?  Say, $1?

Wow, all I have to do is go out and collect a couple thousand
froggies... :v)

>  I am not trying to control what you do, just encouraging you not
>to control the frogs life.

Isn't that what we're doing when we keep any herps as pets?

   don
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
			Bush for  President in '92!
                                 ^
                                 Ex-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don Baldwin  -  Software Engineer  - e-mail to:  donb@tamri.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: jefh@everex.uucp (jefh)
Subject: Re: Finding lost herps
Organization: ESIX Computers, Inc.
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 19:49:37 GMT

I wanted to share a "snake finding" technique that a very experienced 
herpetologist related to me.

Basically, I had a kingsnake escape when I was changing the water and the
phone rang.  I answered the phone, and forgot to replace the lid.  I was
very upset because this was a particularly beautiful specimen which I had
caught myself.  This has not happened to me before in spite of years of
snake keeping, but in my pet store days, I would always just wait it out.
After several days or sometimes weeks of checking potential hiding places
and checking a dark room at night, I was usually able to find a lost snake.
I must admit that I was becoming impatient about the kingsnake that I
mentioned, so I sought some advice.

The suggestion that was given to me seemed feasible.  First, you drive a
nail into a baseboard of an accessible (from the snake's point of view)
room in your house or apartment.  Then you get a freshly killed mouse.
You tie a lenght of monofilament line securely to the nail and around one
of the legs of the mouse.  You must have enough line to leave the mouse in
an open area that permits enough air circulation and also enough slack.

During the night, the snake will detect the scent of the mouse, come out and
eat it.  Then all you have to do is follow the line to the snake the next
morning.  Once you find the snake, you merely cut the line near its mouth,
and it will pass the remaining monofilament without difficulty.

The person who related this technique to me has many years of experience at
keeping snakes.  He told me that he had used the technique numerous times in
the past with success.  Unforntunately, or fortunately, the day that I was 
preparing to try this to catch my lost kingsnake, he decided to come out and
my wife found him.  Obviously, I did not have a chance to try it.

It sounds reasonable.  The only concern may be irritation to the snake's 
gut by the remaining line, or possible injury from the line while it is 
anchored to the wall.  The herpetologist who had used this technique told me
that he had never had any problems like these when he used this "trick."
The need to recapture a snake to prevent injury from domestic animals or
snake-killing neighbors might outweigh the risk in some cases.  Occasional
checking of the line during the night might also lower the risk of any
injurious situations. I am sorry that I cannot vouch for the technique, but
if anyone has an urgent need to recapture a lost snake, maybe this will 
work for you.  Please let us know if you try it, and consider that several
attempts may need to be made to achieve success.  Good luck.

-- 
Jef Hewitt		ESIX SYSTEM/V  
                        UUCP:uunet!zardoz.cpd.com!everex!jefh
                        Internet: zardoz.uucp!everex!jefh@ics.uci.edu
From: pacyna@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Michael Pacyna)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: My First Iguana, (Wood Perches)
Date: 9 Apr 92 20:02:23 GMT
Reply-To: pacyna@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Michael Pacyna)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In reference to wood perches,  one way I have found to rid tree branches
etc. from danger of bugs is to put them on a slow cook in the oven at
250-300F.  These are temperatures are below the combustability temperature
and do a pretty good job of ridding your wood of pests.  it also allows
you to use larger pieces of wood.

				  Mike
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: cs4gp6ac@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (Lizard King)
Subject: Re: Timor and other Pythons
Organization: Department of Computer Science, McMaster University
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 03:00:18 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.014650.11437@news.eng.convex.com> datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri) writes:
>Any knowledge out there about these?
>
>Spotted Python (Liasis maculosus)
>Water Python (Liasis fuscus)
>Timor Python (Python timorensis)
>Papuan Python (Liasis papuanus)
>Olive Python (Liasis olivaceus)
>
>-- 
>
>
>======================================================8--<

My best boa/python reference is: PYTHONS and BOAS by Peter J. Stafford, T.F.H.
Publications, Inc. Ltd, 1986.

It gives a fairly good physical description of the animals you mention as well
as size, range, and habits.  Unfortunately, it is also fairly brief as the book
tries to cover all the boas/pythons.  For more details, I would look for books
specifically on snakes of Australia/New Guinea/Indonesia.

Generally, the snakes you are looking at are all small (relatively) pythons that don't seem to grow to be more than about eight feet.  The water python 
(L. fuscus or L. mackloti) is in my opinion the prettiest of the bunch.
According to the above book, L. papuanus and L. olivaceus are almost (?) 
identical and were in fact classified as one species until recently (please
don't anyone start with the P.m.m. vs P.m.b. debate again!).

Happy hunting,

Richard

p.s. The book is distributed by T.F.H. Publications, Inc.
				211 West Sylvania Ave,
				Neptune City, NJ
				07753
	or
				H&L Pet Supplies Inc.
				27 Kingston Cr.,
				Kitchener, Ont.
				Canada
				N2B 2T6
From: christ@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (Chris Thompson)
Subject: Re: BEWARE OF HEATING PADS!
Keywords: heating, pad, light, rock, sizzle
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 02:08:57 GMT

After all the discussion re heating pads, I'll say again what I said
a couple of months ago:  the best (and only, IMHO) place for a heating
pad is UNDER the animal's tank.  It should take up 1/4-1/3 of the
bottom area of the tank- that way, the CRITTER can decide if it wants
to heat up or not.  And it doesn't fry.

Chris

-- 
(Help!  I've fallen and I can't reach my beer!)
From: dank@stealth.usc.edu (Dan King)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: I took the plunge....and I am sinking.
Date: 10 Apr 1992 00:22:16 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: stealth.usc.edu


Hello, Brent.

My fourth snake ever was a beautiful Florida king snake.  Glossy black
with white speckles.  A wonderful specimen.  The day I purchased him,
I didn't have a  place to put him, but knew one would be ready the
next afternoon.  So, for one night, I put him in a 5' refridgerator
(sp?) box with a heat rock (the heal rock cord that ran up the inside
of the box and down the outside).

I never saw the snake again.

Sigh...What can you do?  Well, if the snake has been gone a week, I'd
guess you won't see him again.  Definitely try the dead mouse tied to
monofilament trick.  That's the best idea I've heard of in weeks.

Also, if you have any heating or cooling ducts in your apartment, open
them and check them.  Even if there's no physical way a snake could
squeeze through them.  Trust me.  There's no physical way a snake
could have escaped from your cage, either.  You obviously have a snake
with telekinesis... :)

Anyway, my advice is to try again.  Snakes make GREAT pets.  Just be a
little more careful with keeping him.  Get a cage with a "positive
lock" on top.  Or build your own (make damn sure it's secure, though).

Good luck,
dank
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: What do you feed a leopard frog---QUICK!
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 23:55:48 GMT

In article <92104.185449CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET> <CBTCC@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
>Guess the subject says it all...I have him and I'm curious and what do I
>keep him/her in?  All water, 1/2 and 1/2?  Thanks,

Hanged if I know.  However, the National Academy of Sciences published a book
in 1974 named _Amphibians: guidelines for the breeding, care, and management 
of laboratory animals; a report_.  It was published for the National Research 
Council (U.S.), Institute of Laboratory Animal Resources, Subcommittee on 
Amphibian Standards.  It's been quite a while since I looked at it, but I think
the leopard frog was one of the amphibians in it.  The book is probably one 
of the single most complete sources you can find.  Try your university library.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.



Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: KILLER BIVITTATUS
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 16:23:54 GMT

In article <1992Apr9.212953.28343@uwm.edu> bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu writes:
>From article <1992Apr9.192902.23149@progress.com>, by gerard@progress.COM 
>(Gerard Bras):
>> mdtaylor@wc.novell.com (Mark D. Taylor) writes:
>[stuff deleted]
>> 
>> The bit aabout the guy being pretty much screwed once his arms 
>> got pinned is right on.  Remember, these snakes do this for a 
>> living.  They are pros at subduing dinner.  Don't ever challenge
>> a pro.
>> 
>
>Ummmm....I hate to cast aspersions on the Royters (sp?) report,
>but having owned some large snakes I find it difficult to believe
>that a 15' unit could kill an adult male Homo sapiens.  Either
>this individual was very *very* frail or the reporters got a bad sizing
>on the snake.  Since a 15' Burmese is not large enough to constrict
>both the arms and legs of an adult, I think that this snake must have
>been much closer to 20' in order to weigh enough to keep a human male
>on the ground.  I've seen Burmese around 20' long and they would make
>quick work of a person alone.  I've also owned several snakes in the 12-14'
>range and they simply are not heavy enough to keep someone on the ground.

I differ.  A couple of years ago, I helped with a photo session using an
~15 foot Burmese.  It was very docile, but two of us were required to move
it.  IMHO, it was 150 pounds in weight.  Try strapping 100 pounds to 
your body and then getting up without using your hands, particularly when
your are panicing to start with.

Another possibility is that the snake got a loop around the victim's neck
and pinched the carotid arteries.  I've had a six foot Burmese squeeze my arm.
I think he could kill me with a carotid pinch.  I don't let *any* snake, no
matter how small, coil all the way around my neck.  Incidentally, I'm 5 ft 
9 in tall and weigh 175 pounds, not *very* frail.  8^)

If the snake does through a coil around your body and you can stay on your 
feet, you just keep pushing the coils down, off your chest and stomach.

> (Deleted)
>BTW, if you are thinking about getting a Burmese python, find someone
>with a unit over 15' and ask yourself how bad you really want one after
>seeing/handling it.  (Deleted)

And check his feed bills.  The cost of upkeep stopped me when mine were 
up around 10 ft.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wednesday, 8 Apr 1992 11:28:09 EDT
From: <SAF108@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: TARANTULAS

I know this is a herp network but due to the fact that many herps are
considered exotic pets I figured some of you may know a bit about exotic
arachnids. I am interested in buying a tarantula, if you have experience
in this area I'd like to hear from you. I'm mostly concerned with the
best kind to buy, housing, heating, feeding requirements.
                                     Thanx STEVE
From: v105mahs@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: New King Snake.
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:13:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr16.154336.11446@acsu.buffalo.edu>, v151luy2@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (V151LUY2.SIGNATURE) writes...
>	I am going to be the owner of a King Snake sometime
>next week. I was wondering if there are other KingSnake 
>owners out there who would like to share soem advice 
>about this little (not) critter. 
   I'd rather not just spout out info at random on the snake.  Do you
have any questions that you want answered?  I have a king and two milks,
so I've got some experience.

>	The previous owner assures me that he is 1) tame and 
>loves to cuddle with warm humans, 2) eats microwaved 
>frozen mouse-icles, 3) is not messy 4) has a few years 
>left in him. 
>	Apparently he (the snake) is about 5 years old. 
>What is the average lifespan of these guys. 
   I believe it can be in the rabge of 20 or so.  Of course, how long
a particlur snake lives will vary due to heredity and care (among other
differences).  You should have quite a few good years left with him.

				Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . I've stopped looking for a job...
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .    I'm now begging for one!!!
From: v105mahs@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: article on lawyers and snakes
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:58:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: acsu.1992Apr16.175901.17900
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


   The following article appeared in the In Business THis Week section
of the April 20, 1992 issue of Business Week.  Just thought it might
be of interest.

						Pete


_Giving_New_Meaning_to_the_Scales_of_Justice_

Lawyers and snakes, perfect together.  And before you lawyers out there
threaten to sue over yet another journalistic cheap shot, consider this:
It's a law firm that started the Adopt-A-Snake program to raise money for
the herpetology department of the Dallas Zoo.

"We feel an affinity for the snakes because they, like lawyers, are often 
misunderstood," says William Candee, senior associate for Bickel & Brewer
in Dallas.  While some might dispute that statement, it is true that the
good barristers have been raising funds for the zoo for two years now,
adopting the entire snake collection, then auctioning individual members
of the menagerie to the public - who leave the charges at the zoo.  
Adoptive "parents" can even name their reptile after their favorite lawyer.  
This year, the firm is teaching schoolchildren about the place of snakes
in the food chain.  A few rungs above the lawyers, no doubt.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . I've stopped looking for a job...
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .    I'm now begging for one!!!
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: christ@sci.ccny.cuny.edu (Chris Thompson)
Subject: Re: Guest post
Organization: City College of New York - Science Computing Facility
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 15:21:38 GMT

In article <1992Apr2.175529.19091@igor.tamri.com>
      donb@tamri.com (Don Baldwin) writes:
>Posted for Lisa Forman:
>
>          Concerning feeding frozen mice, I just thaw them out in room
>          temperature or throw them in some warm water for about 15
>          min.  If you use water, you have to dry them a little.  Most
>          snakes should take semi damp rodents.
>
  
If you do thaw your mice in water, and you keep your snake(s) on
shavings of some sort, drying them is an absolute requirement.  I
just found out that shavings stuck to a mouse/rat/etc., can block
a snake's digestive tract, causing harm and/or death.  Luckily, I
was told this by a herpetologist, before I found out the hard way.
Another simple expedient is to towel off the mouse, and place it
on some newspaper in the tank.  My corn snake will usually consume
the whole thing in one spot, never leaving the paper.

Chris Thompson

-- 
(Help!  I've fallen and I can't reach my beer!)
From: qhwpyd@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Cynthia Goff)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: A thank you
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:14:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: mentor.44676
Distribution: usa


     I want to thank those that responded to my post about my mice breeding
problems.  The book in the library was outdated and contained little infor-
 mation beyond common sense.  I just have some more questions.
     My fiance' called me yesterday to tell me Wonk's Little Friend (yes
our mice have names) had babies.  This was at 2:30pm.  At 7pm, she had 10
and was staying with them and it appeared to him that she was allowing them
to nurse.  He only checked on her these two times to avoid stressing her.
This morning all 10 were dead.  She had not chewed or eaten any of them.
     At 7:30pm Golf Ball, the 75 gram biggie, went into labor.  Half of a
mouse was seen exiting her body at this time.  She was left completely
undisturbed until 11:00pm.  At that time she had two normal appearing but
dead babies laying in two separate places and a third was found that had
been chewed on slightly.  I found two more dead ones a midnight that were
again normal looking and not chewed on.  She is our tamest female and since
she wasn't taking care of them anyway I decided to watch her deliver a couple
of them in an effort to see if they were being born dead.  Two more came but
when they got about 2/3 of the way out she wouldn't do anything else.  One came
so fast that I did not realize it so I do not know if it was born dead.  The
other she walked around with it hanging out of her and took forever to deliver
it and I think this is why it was dead.
     If anyone has any idea why this happened, I would like to know.
Thank you again,
Cindy Goff