HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pzh@myna.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Date: 16 Sep 92 19:52:24 GMT

hempsp@an.hp.com (Paul Hempstead) writes:

>Paul Heuer (pzh@myna.dsto.gov.au) wrote:
>> That was movie land! The supercharger has two rotors with very small gaps
>> between them and the casing walls. If you disengage the drive to the blower
>> you will all but stop the flow of fuel and air into the motor. That is one of
>> the big drawbacks of supercharging - the blower is always running and taking
>> power from the motor. Don't get me wrong, I love the sound of a blown motor
>> (V8 preferably), and the blower should last longer than a turbo as it spins at
>> about the same speed as the crankshaft and doesn't get as hot.
>> Now if the car makers had put the same amount of thought into supercharging that
>> they put into turbocharging many of these problems would be solved by now.
>> 
>  Although the supercharger is always running and taking power from the motor,
>  the power it does take is related to the load on the engine.  For instance,
>  in a properly set-up Rootes system (constant-volume), if there is no load on
>  the motor, then there will be no boost (approximately) over a wide range of
>  rpm's.  The main power loss is due to drive friction.  The boost level increases
>  as the load on the motor increases, up to the point where rotor blow-by limits
>  the boost.  A turbocharger is essentially a constant-pressure device (over a
>  limited range).

>  A blower's operating temperature is strongly dictated by the amount of rotor
>  blow-by.  The more the blow-by, the hotter it runs.

>  The only benefit I have found of a turbocharger over a supercharger is that
>  the turbo is far easier to intercool.  For Do-it-yourselfers, I have found that
>  superchargers are easy to install, and with a little bit of scrounging at 
>  junkyards with Detroit Diesels, can be installed for about the same price as a
>  turbo setup.  Blower life expectancy has never been a problem for me.


>Paul Hempstead
>Hewlett-Packard
>E-mail:   hempsp@hp-and.an.hp.com

Paul,
what about the seals on the rotors? I have heard stories of these only lasting
10,000 miles. Is seal life also dependant on blow by and boost?

Cheers,
Paul Heuer (pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au)
From: bphdarcy@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (SJ Roc D'Arcy, MBP)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Valve covers & Mobil 1
Date: 10 Sep 92 14:01:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep9.164156.729@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, mf@dancer.uucp (24241-fusco) writes...
>In article <1992Sep9.150308.25562@dsd.es.com> sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender) writes:

>	I was never a believer in synthetic oil, rather only in frequent 
>oil changes.  Recently, the friend who bought my '85 4_runner with 151K 
>on it had the valve covers removed (very clean, mechanic was amazed), 
>and also a compression check (also great).  
>I only changed the oil/filter every 3-4K (with mainly Castrol).

	I would second this.  I have had two engines from birth (aka I 
bought new), that cleared 100,000 and when I started to disassemble them
the pan(s), covers, etc. were quite clean.  No slag buildup.  I have never
used a synth oil (though this doesn't mean they don't work) only Castrol
(also). 

SJRD
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Price for Jeep parts
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 92 08:23:38 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA) writes:

 
> PS Is the offroad mailing list active. I have not recieved anything
> since I subscribed and was asked for a bio.

I sent Steph Gilgut a note asking that very question since I had'nt
heard a peep for 4+ weeks.  I have'nt even gotten stuff that I've sent
in, or seen her regular test messages.

However, she assured me that the list *was* alive, there just had'nt been
any traffic lately.



------------------------------------------------------------------
* Bob Lombard (bdl@cruiser.uucp)         418 Village Center Dr.  *
*                                        Encinitas, Ca. 92024    *
* -Too many toys, Not enough time....                            *
------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Brakes
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:36:17 GMT
Organization: University of Notre Dame


	At lower pressures, dissolved air in a fluid can "fall out"
of solution.  That is to say that when you go to higher altitude
the atmosphere pressure is lower so the amount of air that will 
stay dissolved in the brake fluid is lower.  I don't know that there
should be much dissolved air in the brake fluid and I'm not sure
this is an answer but it may be something to consider.  If there
is a way an abnormal amount of air is being added to the fluid
during normal operations at lower altitudes this could manifest
itself as a large air bubble in the brake line at higher altitudes.
Just a thought.

		--Michael Buening
		internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
 
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 92 18:39:47 PDT
Subject: Re: ranger
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   for what its worth. by the time it goes into a normal idle the engine and
the tail pipe starts smoking then the engine and exaust system is finally start-in to warm up. it may only be condensation starting to vaporize. 
   what collor is the smoke? 
        mike nason
From: golder@ppd.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Keywords: turbo
Date: 8 Sep 92 19:47:22 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.150907.13210@athena.mit.edu>, tafrakes@athena.mit.edu (T. Andy Frakes) writes:
|> Can someone give me some info on aftermarket turbo kits?  I'm mainly
|> looking for the following info:
|> 
|> 1)  Where to get them.  Approx. cost w/ and w/o installation.
|> 
|> 2)  How well they function (much difference from factory installed?)
|> 
|> 3)  Ease of installation (how much is involved)
|> 
|> 
|> I'm thinking of adding a turbo to a '92 Eclipse (1.8L).  Any other
|> suggestions would also be appreciated.
|> 
|> -Andy

Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?
You'll save yourself a lot of time, money, & headaches in the long run,
and you'll have a car you can take to a competent mechanic for 
maintenance.  You'll also have better resale value.
Organization: Senior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Tue,  8 Sep 1992 15:37:24 -0400 
From: "Russell E. Hoffman, II" <rh2y+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Need 400 sm block Flywheel

Hello all,
   I've posted about this a while ago, but that was over the summer
whilst most of the net was away on vacation. So, I'll post here again.
I'm looking for an externally balanced flywheel for a Chevy small-block
400, for use with a clutch and manual transmission. I'd prefer to find
one in the PA area, but I'll take any responses.

Please reply to this account: rh2y+@andrew.cmu.edu

Thanks,
Russell Hoffman
rh2y+@andrew.cmu.edu
Carnegie Mellon University

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: thompsje@craft.camp.clarkson.edu (Jeffrey E. Thompson)
Subject: Answers needed from down under
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:50:05 GMT


A couple of months ago I remember a post from somebody from Australia who
mentioned that most Australian cars have had 4-wheel disc brakes for
quite some time. I was just curious when this trend (a good one, too)
started and if it would be possible to retrofit some U.S. models with
"Australian" model parts.  Any information would be welcome but more
specifically I have a 1973 BMW 2002 that I would really love to have four
wheel discs on.


Thanx,


Jeff
From: golder@homer.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Date: 10 Sep 92 13:44:18 GMT
Reply-To: ricks@berkeley.edu
Organization: UC Berkeley IC CAD Group

In article <1992Sep9.185045.16702@spdc.ti.com>, serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin) writes:
|> In article <5630167@hplsla.hp.com> genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor) writes:
|> >>In article tafrakes@athena.mit.edu (T. Andy Frakes) writes:
|> >>|> Can someone give me some info on aftermarket turbo kits?  I'm mainly
|> >>|> looking for the following info:
|> >>|> 
|> >>|> 1)  Where to get them.  Approx. cost w/ and w/o installation.
|> >>|> 
|> >>|> 2)  How well they function (much difference from factory installed?)
|> >>|> 
|> >>|> 3)  Ease of installation (how much is involved)
|> >>|> 
|> >>|> 
|> >>|> I'm thinking of adding a turbo to a '92 Eclipse (1.8L).  Any other
|> >>|> suggestions would also be appreciated.
|> >>|> 
|> >>|> -Andy
|> >>
|> >>Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?
|> >>You'll save yourself a lot of time, money, & headaches in the long run,
|> >>and you'll have a car you can take to a competent mechanic for 
|> >>maintenance.  You'll also have better resale value.
|> >>----------
|> >
|> >I second this motion.  I've tried to convert vehicles from what I had
|> >into what I thought I wanted and it was always 10 times the effort and
|> >money that I expected and it never turned out exactly the way it was
|> >planned.  In all cases, it would have been cheaper to buy it than
|> >convert it.
|> >
|> >my $.02
|> >-Gene
|> 
|> Ok, but where do I find a factory built turbocharged F250 4x4, 460ci, 5sp,
|> pickup?  

If you had read the whole article, which includes the original posting,
you would have seen that the car being considered was an Eclipse, which
is available from the factory in a turbo version.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rvn@icd.teradyne.com (Rafael Vidaillet)
Subject: Winter tires VS All-season
Reply-To: rvn@icd.teradyne.com
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:35:11 GMT

I have an Eagle Talon AWD with Dunlops Sp 8000's on it.  These tires are
no good for winter (At least that's what everyone says), so I had planned 
to change-over to the original Goodyears GT +4's for winter.  

	But now I have another option, I could sell these tires and get real 
Winter tires for winter.  I have been told that good performace Winter tires 
(Pirelli 210's) will not only be better in the snow, but will grab much 
better than any other tire during the winter time temperatures.  Can I 
expect winter tires to grab better than the GT+4's in the city, were there 
is no snow, but it is still pretty cold?

	I live in Boston, and tend to go skiing in Maine very often,
so I'm kind of leaning towards the winter tires, but I just want to know 
what I'm getting into... Will I win in all counts in going to a winter 
tire, or will I 'loose' something?  What about in the 'in-between' 
winter and summer time, which tire should I use?
	
Remember, I already have GREAT summer tires, so these tires will only be 
used in winter... (And I know that AWD will help, but I kind of drive hard
all the time, and I don't think I'll slow down much in winter, so I can use
all the grip I can get.)
	
	If you have any experience with the type of tire I'm thinking
of getting I would be very interested in hearing about it!

	Thanks ahead for any replies....

_RV

---
 ______________________________________________________________________
/                                                                      \
| Rafael Vidaillet--MS: H71|   Internet:  rvn@dewey.icd.teradyne.com   |
| Teradyne Inc.            |                              _            |
| 321 Harrison Ave.        |   Voice:   (617) 422-2422   |_) \  /      |
| Boston, Ma. 02118        |   Fax:     (617) 422-2837   | \  \/       |
\______________________________________________________________________/
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Handbrakes /discbrakes
Date: 4 Sep 92 20:05:55 GMT
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA

Another solution which is used on some Porsches and on the Ferrari Mondials,
is to have a small mechanically operated drum brake in the center of the 
rear disc.  Since the grip required to stop a disc brake is substantially 
more than that required for a drum, this is an effective solution.

'later,
   Gary
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tim@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (tim)
Subject: Transmission Confusion
Reply-To: tim@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (tim)
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 20:06:57 GMT



Hi there netters.  Anybody know a lot about transmissions?  My friend's
'69 BMW 2500 has been giving us some trouble since he had the tranny
rebuilt.  It's a Borg-Warner ZF.

Problem:  In drive only (not in 1,2, or rev) it makes this kind of harsh
rumble when starting from a complete stop.  It's sort-of like the noise
that you hear when you step on the gas while holding the break about
three quarters of the way--like a pad slipping noise, but a little
harsher.  The guys at the place that did the rebuild are really giving
us the run-around.  First they blamed it on the drive line, which was in
fact in need of a new u-joint.  We replaced the u-joint and the center 
bearing, but the noise is still there.  Besides, it only happens in D
and not 1 or 2.  So it's got to be the tranny, right?

Any ideas/suggestions/comments?

Thanks in advance.

Tim Klohck
UC Berkeley
From: todd_oconnor@taligent.com (Todd O'Connor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jeep YJ
Date: 10 Sep 92 16:56:20 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 09:57:08 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3

The YJ has much less ground clearance than the CJ.  I have an '89 Wrangler and am
installing a 2 1/2" suspension lift and 33" tires to overcome the ground clearance
problem.  I use this vehicle around town and in the Sierras where rocks are
abundant.  I've had some problems with shifting into 2nd when cold, the ECU (ie
computer) needed to be replaced, and some other general tune-up problems.  Other
than that the vehicle has ran fine.

If you are shopping for a new YJ think hard about the following options:

          Hard-top (much cheaper to buy as a package off the lot than later)
          4.0L Engine (lots of power and torque)
          3.54 Gears (better off-road and for towing)
          Trac-Lock (semi-good factory limited slip, something is better than
nothing)
          A/C (eventhough it's a tack on item it can be a good investment)

Also keep in mind that the Jeep is not a car.  It rides rough, the wind noise can
be loud at times, does not have that much room for cargo or passengers, does not
get great gas mileage, but than you're not buying it for those reasons.  You're
buying a Jeep!!!



tc
todd_oconnor@taligent.com
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Experiences with Maaco
Date: 14 Sep 1992 19:15:06 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders) writes:
>In article <24768@oasys.dt.navy.mil> jeanthea@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Jeantheau) writes:
>>Anybody have any experiences, good or bad, with Maaco Autobody? I'm
>>considering having my peeling '84 Mustang painted; they quoted me
>>$900. That's about what I want to spend, and they give a two-year
>>written warranty. I know you don't get a great paint job for $900, but
>>it doesn't really have to be great -- I only need it to last a few years
>>(car has 132K miles on it).  And I don't want to spend more than $1000.
>>
>>Any comments?

>	I had my car painted at Maaco and I was satified with their work. The
>quality of work may have to do with which Maaco you go to. Like I said, The
>job they did at Maaco in Somerville Ma was decent.

We at work "borrowed" one of my co-worker's cars -- a really beat up
flat pea-green Chevy -- while he was out of town and had it repainted
for him.  We did it while Maaco was running a $350 special (I think
that's half of the normal price and probably doesn't include all of
the little extras they'll do).

We picked this purple color to make the car look new and shiny but
still remain kind of ugly.

I don't know how Maaco did it but the car looks absolutely great (on
the outside, that is :-) -- the purple color turned out deep enough
that it's not at all ugly.  That was also Somerville Maaco.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Dirty oil after change?
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:31:53 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Sep7.173024.14772@informix.com> neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams) writes:
>My SO recently had her oil changed at a local gas station.  When I went
>with her to pick up her car, I took a look at the dipstick.
>
>I was very surprised to see that the oil still looked pretty dirty.
>I've never checked her oil immediately after a change before 
...
>
>Questioning the mechanic, he said something to the effect that you
>can never get out all the old oil and it mixes with the new to make
>it look dirty.  I didn't buy his story, and suspect we were charged
>for service not performed, or they didn't change the filter.
>
>Is the mechanic correct, or am I right to be suspicious?  Oh, previously
>the oil hadn't been changed for about 5k miles.
>
The mechanic is right. If the old oil is visibly dirty, the new oil will be
dirtied as soon as the mechanic runs the engine to test the oil filter gasket
for leakage.

Remember, that oil clings to every part in the engine, and the sump won't
"wash" clean *all* the miniscule sediments that accumulate there when the
oil plug is pulled.  There's also deposits everywhere in the engine.

What I did on my '69 Firebird when I first bought it (used) was run a 50-50
mixture of kerosene and 30W for about a minute, and then immediately drained
the crankcase. The engine oil thereafter was whistle-clean, and I never had
oil-burning in the next 7 years that I had it...  

I wouldn't try this on a more modern car though.
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Date: 9 Sep 92 20:13:35 GMT
	<1992Sep8.191953.27701@news.nd.edu> <1992Sep9.160156.7566@ncsu.edu>
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Distribution: rec.autos, rec.autos.tech, rec.autos.sport
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On 9 Sep 92 16:01:56 GMT, bcasper@eos.ncsu.edu (BRIAN  CASPER) wrote:

>Superchargers were used on WWII airplane engines, so they've been around for
>a long time...  That big blockish thing that you see on top of a top fuel
>dragster engine is a super charger.  They are also commonly referred to as
>'blowers'.  A 'roots' style blower is made of a housing with two interlocking
>vanes inside.  One of these vanes is belt driven by the crankshaft.  An end
>view of a vane would be like three lightbulbs joined at the bottoms to form
>a three point star with bulbous points - only smaller - about 4-5 inches in
>diameter.  This triangular vane is about 6 inches long (typically...  is that
>what the 6 stands for in a 6-71 GMC blower???)  

Actually, the 6-71 stands for the 6 cylinder diesel engine with 71 cu. in. 
per cylinder that the blower was designed for.

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bob Rusk			    | An egoless acceptance of stuckness is a
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com	    | key to an understanding of all Quality.
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'. |			   - Robert M. Pirsig
From: dlou@KRUSHER.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Date: 10 Sep 92 00:38:28 GMT
Reply-To: dlou@ece.ucsd.edu
Organization: University of California, San Diego


In article <1992Sep9.185045.16702@spdc.ti.com>, serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin) writes:
|> In article <5630167@hplsla.hp.com> genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor) writes:
|> >>In article tafrakes@athena.mit.edu (T. Andy Frakes) writes:
|> >>|> Can someone give me some info on aftermarket turbo kits?  I'm mainly
|> >>|> looking for the following info:
|> >>
|> >>Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?
|> >
|> >I second this motion.  I've tried to convert vehicles from what I had
|> >into what I thought I wanted and it was always 10 times the effort and
|> >money that I expected and it never turned out exactly the way it was
|> >planned.  In all cases, it would have been cheaper to buy it than
|> >convert it.
|>
|> Ok, but where do I find a factory built turbocharged F250 4x4, 460ci, 5sp,
|> pickup?  


I think the point to be made is that it what you start with is very
important.  A big block pickup will take to modification much better
than say a Honda Civic.  The former because it was built for heavy
duty applications and probably has lots of room in its performance
envelope while the latter is probably already pushed to the limit and
would require beefing up of many major components as well as carving
out space for new peices.

-- 
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: what larges vehicles use for brakes (was: disk brakes again)
Date: 13 Sep 92 01:48:53 GMT
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

In article <ia85428@pro-haven.cts.com>, shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
>In <1992Sep11.020550.28190@julian.uwo.ca>
>
>% -> what do planes, trains, semi-trucks (ie MAC trucks/16 wheelers/tractor-
>%    trailers) use for brakes?
>
>Planes use Disk brakes. ( I think.)  pretty damn big disks. :)

As a matter of fact, any jet larger than a business plane relies heavily on 
reverse thrust and spoilers/air brakes (large segments of the wing which
snap up on hydraulics to turn wing lift into wing drag) to lose high
end speed.  The physical anti-lock disc brakes on the wheels aren't very
useful at all until the plane is down below 60kph or so.

For comparison, imagine a large, fully loaded 18-wheeler barrelling down
a straight road at about 300mph on bicycle tires, and you'll get an idea
of what it takes to stop say, a medium size 737.

Of course, my scale might be slightly off, in which case I'm sure there
will be a lot of corrections forthcoming across the net :).

Alex
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP