HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lew@4ccvw70.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Engine problems
Date: 6 Jan 93 01:00:33 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw70.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <wwebster-050193075910@47.220.4.39> wwebster@bnr.ca (Bill Webster) writes:
>
>Okay. I'll bite.  What is a "stuffer" backplate and where do you 
>purchase them?  I expect it's a new backplate to decrease crankcase
>volume, thus increase crankcase pressure.
>
>And, where do you get the pointed needle valve which still fits the
>original Fox stunt spray-bar?
>
>I've always found the Fox flattened needle valve works fine as long
>as it never gets bent.  I cut the needle valve short and put a 90 degree
>bend in it.  This way it avoids meeting terra firma.  Besides, it's
>the cheapest spray bar assembly you can buy.  But, I do wish the
>original Super Tiger assembly was still available.  The one from 
>Kustom Kraftsman is okay but very expensive and you have to use
>his needle valves (also expensive).
>
>   Bill Webster (WWEBSTER@BNR.CA)

Larry must have read his new Fox newsletter. Fox is offering a 'stuffer'
backplate and a pointed needle valve for the Fox .35. Fox is also
offering a two piece head for same motor. I've already picked up a 
couple of needle valves and they work GREAT! No more guessing on the
mixture setting with this needle. I've also bought a couple of stuffer
backplates from a machinist and they seem to improve the stunt run a
little. The 'stuffer backplate does fit in the crankcase more snuggly
and reduces the horrendous endplay on the crankshaft. Theoretically
its suppose to improve fuel draw/suction and pumping in the crankcase.
I wouldn't use the stock gasket though. It's too thick and causes
distortion to the backplate lugs since the gasket does not go beyond
the bolt circle.

As for the Super Tigre needle valve, I would be reluctant to use it
since it is larger in diameter than the stock Fox. This will reduce
the venturi area in the carb thus reducing your top end power. The
way around that is open the venturi with the next size drill bit or
reduce the diameter of the needle valve body  with a lathe.


Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com
From: jtaylor@cats.ucsc.edu (Joel Ross Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: helo faq request
Date: 6 Jan 1993 14:46:46 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: si.ucsc.edu


I have been considering getting into R/C helicopters for a while now and seem
to remember that some kind soul had put together a faq file on this.  Could 
they please either re-post or mail me a copy? Thanks.

What I am considering:    Shuttle ZX
			  Enya 35 bb (helo) 
			  JR 347 radio
			  gyro (not sure of brands here)

A couple of quesitons, why is the Enya engine so expensive?  (sounds dumb
but I have a couple of 40 aircraft engins which cost about half as much.)
I was told this was the only bolt in engine for this model.

I am on a bit of a budget and was wondering if it would make sense to get the
kit and start working on assembly before I get the engine?  I have the radio
already.

I have the book 'Rays Complete Helicopter Manual' and this has been getting
me real close to making the first purchase but I would like to go into this
with as much knowlege as possible.  Helicopters appear to be  MUCH more
technical machines than fixed wing craft.

Again, thanks for any info on this venture and I hope to be flying by this
summer?!?

Joel Taylor        jtaylor@si.ucsc.edu




-- 

                 9
                   |                      |            |
	           |   --       	  |            |   ___   /\
                 __|__|__|    |    |_|_|  |  |    |    |   |__|____\
                |   __        |____|        _|    |____|   ___|  o
               _|       /
                        
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mju@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (michael.j.urban)
Subject: Re: Quiet combat?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 18:40:44 GMT

>I fly R/C, not combat, but I'm going to let you know how I feel anyway. 
>I posted about a year ago on the subject of "why don't the control-
>line flyers use mufflers?"  It seemed strange that the AMA is such a 
>strong advocate for mufflers in R/C and yet had no stated public policy 
>for C/L.  I fly at Ned Brown Woods in Elk Grove Village and the C/L 
>engines are indeed quite loud and irritating; loud enough that you 
>cannot hear your R/C plane in the air.  The loudest engines are the 
>combat types practicing for competition.  The replies to my original 
>post explained that combat engines had to be loud because 
>
>1) it was a competitive event requiring the ultimate in engine performance
>2) combat flyers during practice must use the same setup as in competition
>3) AMA had no muffler requirement
>4) there were no effective mufflers available that would survive combat
>5) no mufflers could be designed to survive combat.
>
>Well now it becomes obvious that if rule #3 is changed by the AMA then 
>a whole new world of technology is available to the combat flyers.  It's 
>amazing how the laws of physics change so dramatically in 1 year.
>
>


	Bull.  I  was one of the responders to this original query, and
	the summary of responses seems pretty accurate to me.  They are
	still valid, no matter what the AMA muffler requirement is.
	
	Do you really think that just because the FAI is planning to
	require mufflers on .15 glow engines in FAI combat, that this
	means that there are actually suitable mufflers available?
	If so, you are sadly mistaken.  The new FAI rules are purely
	political in motivation, as evidenced by the fact that the
	requirement is in terms of muffler chamber dimensions.  There is
	no requirement in terms of sound levels, and there is no muffler
	requirement at all for diesels!  As Bill Lee pointed out, a high
	performance diesel is just about as loud as a glow engine.
	The British combat flyers have	tried for years to drive FAI
	combat towards diesels, and this is just another attempt.  All it
	has done is effectively kill the FAI combat event in the US,
	with a very few exceptions.
	
	Items #4 & 5 above are still true.  There are no effective
	mufflers available that would survive the inevitable carnage, and
	no one seems to know how to design them.
	
	I would like all the RC flyers out there to note that the single
	loudest event in all of model aviation is one of your own, and
	that is Pylon Racing.  Not only are they loud, but there are
	usually FOUR of them going at once, and they are up there in the
	sky where the noise propogates more widely than when on a 60 foot
	tether.  I would be the last to suggest that they be placed under
	some kind of noise level regulation.  To someone who appreciates
	high performance model engines, that stuff is music, not noise.
	However, it does sort of irritate me to have an RC flyer complain
	about the noise of a competition control line event, when the
	competition RC event is louder.
	
	Mike Urban
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: First plane (sailplane) advice?
Date: Fri,  8 Jan 93 10:15:38 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

>Ok,  I've read the  FAQ and  decided to build a Standard class sailplane
>as my first R/C craft.

>I'd like to solicit comments on:
>Dynaflite Butterfly

Dynaflite kits are a little on the poor side, imho.  The butterfly is a
powered sailplane, and flies well, however.  

>Airtronics Olympic II

EXCELLENT! Airtronics sailplane kits are very good quality kits.  The
instructions could be just a little more informative, but you can always
ask the net. :-)

>SIG Riser 100

No experience with it, but Sig kits are usually pretty good, and the
instructions are excellent; I doubt you'd go wrong with this kit.

>I  also need recommendations on books about sailplanes (building and flying)
>and radios. (As my kids will eventually push me into power I thought I'd go
>with a good 4ch setup.)

I haven't looked at books aimed at the beginner lately, really.  However,
Model Airplane News publishers have put out a book on building and flying
sailplanes that I found to be quite interesting and informative, although
it didn't really address many subjects in great details.  A fairly good
introduction to the field.  

I'm sure there are some other, very good books, I'm just not familiar with
them... :-)

  -swb-  (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda)
Subject: Re: Attaching canopy to fuselage
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 00:17:16 GMT

In article <73097@cup.portal.com> sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby) writes:
|
|>I am just finishing a Super Sportster 40.  The last thing that I need to do
|>is glue the canopy to the fuselage.  The instructions mention using CA glue
|>but I was wondering if epoxy or some other glue might be better.  Also, 
|>should I glue the canopy to the monocote or should I cut the monocote where
|>the canopy touches the fuselage?  I would appreciate any advice or personal
|>experiences.
|
|I would choose to use thin CA, very sparingly and slowly.  The idea is to
|let the minimum amount of glue dry completely before adding more to a 
|joint - otherwise, the fumes from to-quickly-curing glue will fog up the
|canopy.  

If you use oderless CA, like "UFO", you will not craze the plastic.

My favorite method is to cut the covering (if plastic) and use "RC-56"
glue.  You can make a nice bead, and it looks great.  (But careful about
your fingers--the stuff actually softens the canopy plastic temporarily,
and you can leave a permanent fingerprint if you're not careful.)

|If you stuck down the monokote well, it will make a great gluing surface
|for the canopy - if you tacked the edges and used a heatgun to shrink
|the center flush (no scratches, etc), then I'd suggest using the iron
|to firmly tack at least the area where the canopy will touch before
|gluing.

That also goes if you plan on cutting away some of the monokote--tack
it down around the edges of the cut before gluing down the canopy.

I *always* tack Monokote to all wood it touches.  If you sand well, and
vaccuum it after, and use a sock on your iron, it looks fine.  And it
doesn't sag so easily.

|If you want to trim back the monokote under the joint, you'll know the
|joint is as strong as it can be, but it looks a little messier, IMHO.
|But you can keep it neat, and just use a trim stripe over the joint
|to finish it off; something I'd do for plastic-to-monokote, too.

Always looks better if you trim the glue joint, no matter what method
you use.

		Dave Svoboda, Palatine, IL
From: lew@4ccvw57.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: $$$
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:44:07 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw57.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <1i3o2tINN9r@ub.d.umn.edu> cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu (Chris) writes:
>
>   What would the minimal cost of building a simple running rc
>controlled air plane that would be simple to fly?
>A complete utter newbie (me:) wants to know...
>Please email me directly.
>--
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Chris Busch     cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> C(o_o))        _                        "The use of COBOL cripples the
>   (=)         (_ -|- -|- is the         mind; its teaching should, 
>  --|--        language of choice.       therefore, be reguarded as a
>   /^\      Protest the use of BASIC!    criminal offense." -E.W. Dijkista
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Well, let's run through some numbers here for a low bucks setup:

Balsa USA Swizzle Stick 	~ $25.00
4 Channel Airtronics Radio 	~$120.00
Covering, paint, and glue  	~ $30.00
Hardware i.e. wheels, tank, etc.~ $20.00
Engine i.e. OS 40FP, Fox .25,etc~ $70.00

                     Total      ~$265.00


Note this does not include electric starter, starter battery, or glow
lighter. That's another $70-90. The estimates are on the conservative
side. The Swizzle Stick is a very simple 3 channel trainer to fly and
build. It is available only through Balsa USA by mail order. I would
check the latest RCM magazine for the mail order prices on some of 
these items.


Good Luck
Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com
From: MikeSummers@cup.portal.com (Michael - Summers)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: First plane (sailplane) advice? (addenda)
Date: Fri,  8 Jan 93 12:23:26 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

I neglected to mention that this will be thermal soaring using a 
high-start.

We've *lots* of wind and thermal activity in Kansas, but I don't have
any convienient slopes in the neighborhood.

Our ground winds tend to be strong and gusty.

Thanks again-- Mike
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: What is a ferite bead?
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:10:59 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.010850.4044@sequent.com> patch@sequent.com (Pat Chewning) writes:
>In article <1993Jan6.205946.10039@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> careyb@dallas.jsc.nasa.gov (Brian Carey 283-4181) writes:

>A ferite bead is a donut shaped bead made from ferite.  Ferite is a compound
>of iron and carbon (FeC3 I think).  When wires are wound around the ferite
>bead (through the center, around outside, and back through center), the bead
>increases the inductance of the wire and is used to supress higher
>frequencies on the wire.  In this example the ferite bead is being used as
>an RF choke to reduce the RF noise generated and received on the servo
>leads.

Hmm.. I thought it was simply sintered iron. Interesting to find out
what this stuff is after all this while.

>I obtained my ferite beads at Norvak Electronics, a local electronic parts
>store.  They might be available from Radio Shack and other electronic part
>stores.

How big do these get? I need a toroid about an inch and a half in 
diameter to make an inductor for a power panel I am building.




-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU
Subject: Violett F-16C
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:05:23 GMT

I have a Bob Violett Models F-16C almost ready to paint. I'll be painting it
in the Thunderbird paint scheme (red, white, blue). I plan to paint it
using acrylic lacquer for the colors and then a gloss coat of DuPont
Emron Clear Polyurethane after the decals have been added. I have been
painting with Emron for years and feel comfortable using it, but have
never painted over a lacquer base before.
Question 1. Does anyone have any info you feel I should know before
            painting this bird?
 
Question 2. Does anybody else have one of these planes so we can share
            information, AD's, or other update information.
 
Thanks for replys!!
 
Kraig Krumm  (AMA59622)
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: R/C Monster Trucks!
Date: Mon,  4 Jan 93 11:34:17 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: usa

I good friend of mine and I were talking around the idea of both
of us acquiring R/C monster trucks; namely, Tamiya "Clodbuster" or
Kyosho "USA-1".

My friend hasn't had experience with either of them, just a not-too-close
inspection of the kits - and he suggested that the Clodbuster has
better quality.

Anyone out there with experience with one or both of these kits have
any comments?  I'm interested in comments on kit quality, performance
differences and any other sordid tales... :-)

Whaddya think????

  -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: sbixby@cup.portal.com (Steven W Bixby)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: out of control
Date: Mon,  4 Jan 93 10:23:33 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

>>fhage@rap.ucar.edu (Frank Hage) writes:
>>>Make sure the on/off switch is nowhere
>>>near where your launch hand sits on the model. Always turn on the model
>>
>>And make sure that all ON is toward the tail!!! It feels wrong, but anything
>>that hits the switch in flight will be moving toward the tail and won't 
>>be able to turn it off in flight.
>>--

  >I disagree with you on a hand launched glider.  How many times have you been
>hit by something in flight that COULD have turned off the radio.  I tink it is
>best to have the switch ON in the forward position so if during lanuch you hit
>it, it will be turning it on.  Ever since I knocked my Segitta's radio off on
>launch, I flipped all my switches.  On powered planes, I set them the other
>way.

I would have to agree with this.  But, I would also add another possibility.
All my sailplanes and hand-launched powered planes (electrics) have the
switch mounted inside the fuselage.  On the sailplanes, I make the hatch
'quick-removable', and just open the hatch to flip the switch on/off.
This way, there's less drag, and no chance of fingers or ??? flipping
the switch unintentionally.

On my power planes, I still mount the switch inside, but I run a wire
to the outside to actuate the switch - this solves the problem of 
goo getting inside the switch mechanism.  On one plane, I rigged up
a tiny spring-loaded hatch to cover the switch - best of both
worlds.  The hinge was about 1/3 along the length of the hatch (about
1/2" by 1") and room was made under the 1/3 portion to be able to
press on it to open the other side.  (Does that make sense?)  It
was very clean and aerodynamic.  It was also a hassle to make, but
what can ya say?  I enjoy my building efforts.

  -swb- (Steve Bixby, sbixby@cup.portal.com)
From: jackv@orpheus.Eng.Sun.COM (Jack F. Vogel)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Spacewalker II question
Date: 13 Jan 1993 05:52:21 GMT
Organization: Sun
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: orpheus
Summary: Question on hinging ailerons
Keywords: Sig XX Hinges

Hello everyone,

	Would like to hear from anyone who has/is building the SIG
Spacewalker II. I am nearly done with the wing and am a bit unclear
about the hinges for the ailerons. Seems sort of weak as far as the
amount of balsa around them (only sheeting and a spar). There is no
indication in the instructions or plans about adding balsa blocks
although this has been suggested. Just wondered if I'm missing
something.

Email or post as taste dictates.

Cheers,


-- 
Jack F. Vogel		  Sun Microsystems Inc.			jackv@Sun.COM
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: abair@parsons.sps.mot.com (Alan Bair)
Subject: Beginner questions on Electric Helicopters
Organization: AMCU, Motorola Inc., Austin, Texas.
Distribution: rec
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 07:14:56 GMT

I am new to R/C and plan on getting started with an electric helicopter. I
have heard about how tough helicopters can be to learn to fly, but I have
always been interested in them, so I figure I'll be more likely to carry on
with the learning process.  I also like the convenience and lower noise of
electric, so I decided to start with them. I figure I can also switch to gas
powered latter if my interest continues.  So I would like to ask a few 
questions to see if I am thinking straight on this project.

1. I figure a good first step is to join the AMA and check out the local
	hobby shops for clubs with helicopter owners.

2. A helicopter with collective pitch vs. fixed pitch seems to be the best
	way to go in the long run.

3. Because of #2, I figure I need at least a 5 channel radio. There seem to
	be ones made specially for helicopters. What is special about these
	and can be they be used for planes too (thinking about the future)?
	I have thinking of the Futaba 5NLH with S133 servos or Airtronics 
	VG6H with electric servo package. Any recommendations? 

4. Because I am going electric, I have read that I need special servos and
	other items, like speed controls. It seems like this is really just
	related to what goes in the helicopter and not the radio. So, can the
	radio then be used for gas powered models?

5. I have been surveying the various R/C magazines and found the following
	electric helicopter models, any recommendations. 

	A. Hobby Lobby: Hughes 500 (fixed pitch)

	B. Century: Asonic EH-550

	C. Kalt: Whisper
	
	D. Kyosho: Concept EP

6. Is it worth spending the $180.00 for the trainer stands?

7. General question, what are the extra channels in 8-10 channel systems used
	for with any R/C model?

You can either Email or post. Hope to hear from you Helicopter pilots and 
thanks in advance.
--
Alan Bair             		AMCU DSCS
Motorola, Inc.            	    (Design Software &
Mail Stop OE-320		     Computer Services)
6501 William Cannon Dr. West	
Austin, TX  78735-8598          abair@parsons.sps.mot.com
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Engine problems
Date: 4 Jan 93 15:50:54 GMT
	<1993Jan4.014351.29058@nodecg.ncc.telecomwa.oz.au>
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory

>>>>> On Mon, 4 Jan 1993 01:43:51 GMT, cstone@nodecg.ncc.telecomwa.oz.au (Charlie Stone 4915162) said:
Charlie> Dont be surprised by unusual design features of FOX
Charlie> engines; Duke tried lots of variations on the theme and
Charlie> most worked real well.  I have seen seen FOX needle
Charlie> valves (Control Line) with a little cross shaped end
Charlie> where you would normally see a point.  It was used to
Charlie> hold the needle truly central in the spraybar.  This may
Charlie> have something like that.

Strangely enough, after all those years of flattened Fox needle valve ends
(on Fox .35 stunt engines), conventional pointed needle valves are now
available. In fact these, plus the "stuffer" backplates are currently 
considered to be the hot setup for Fox stunt engines.

Of course, one of the sure improvements for Fox .35s for many years has
been to replace the [crappy] stock needle valve with a Supertigre version
or equivalent..

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
The first time I had sex, I was terrified. I was alone..
From: chrisd@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Chris Douglas)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:18:44 GMT
Subject: Curtis A-3B Falcon?
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc


I am planning on building a Curtis A-3B Flacon.  It is a biplane
made in 1929 and 1930 for use as a ground attack plane.  What I need
color information on this plane.  Specifically, a color photo,
color drawing, book with color pictures, or the location of an
actual plane somewhere.  If there is anyone out there who can 
help me out, I'd be greatful.

Thanks,
Chris Douglas
chrisd@hpisrhr.cup.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 05:16:45 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.183915.18586@cbnewse.cb.att.com> mckiou@cbnewse.cb.att.com (kevin.w.mckiou) writes:

>If you want the *ultimate* knee-knocking thrill buy an AeroTech F25
>disposable motor and fly your Phoenix.  It will accellerate from
>0 to  ~160mph in about 2.5 sec.  Has about a 2 foot white flame.  You
>won't be able to wipe the grin off your face for a couple of hours.

Just curious.. what do expendables in this class go for? I guess I might
break down and write Aerotech for their catalog...

I really do hope someone brings something like this to Muncie next time 
they have an AMA Fun Fly (hint hint).





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !