HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rjt@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (ross.j.thompson)
Subject: Re: Maillard Helico-Matic Freewheels?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 18:27:39 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Summary: great paper weight

In article <022b02ap2a2201@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, jdr40@ccc.amdahl.com (John Ritter) writes:
> In article <1992Nov3.223724.23639@cypress.com> mjl@cypress.com (Mike La Bouff) writes:
> >I have a 1984 vintage Maillard Helico-Matic rear hub that I am trying to locate
> >a freewheel for.  Apparently these were discontinued by Maillard in the late 80's
> >and are no where to be found here in the S.F. Bay area.  I have considered buying
> >a new wheel/freewheel, but it is out of my budget.
> 
> If that helicomatic hub is on a Trek, you might be able to get them to
> replace it. Trek used a lot of those hubs in the mid 80's. I got tired
> of the poor shifting and complained to my Trek dealer just about 2-3
> years ago. The dealer talked to the distributer and they replaced the
> hub/freewheel on warrenty. They may not do it anymore and I could have
> just ran into a nice guy but I know they had lots of complaints over the
> years. It would be worth asking.

As the owner of a Helicomatic-equipped TREK from the mid-80s, I can also 
attest to the lack of precise shifting although some of the problem may
have been due to the Suntour Cyclone rear derailleur trying to span triple
chainrings.  Apparently, the only thing this hub had going for it was the
ease with which the freewheel cassette could be removed from the hub, 
ostensibly to replace a broken spoke on the drive side during the course
of a loaded tour (ie. no sag support). 

The removal of the cassette was accomplished with a small "bottle-opener"
wrench and no other vice or chain whips.  Also, because of the cassette
design, the bearings are closer to the axle supports (dropouts) which
places less bending moment on the axle thereby reducing the incidence
of axle breakage.  On the negative side, the cogs wore quickly, replacement
cogs were not widely available and the hub-cassette is very massive, even
without the cogs.  

I have long since removed my Helicomatic from service and have relegated it
to the status of a conversation piece.  I keep it for sentimental reasons
and use it only occasionally, as a paper weight.


Ross Thompson
AT&T Bell Laboratories
Whippany, NJ
rjt@hogpa.att.com

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: Re: 51 speed humps, will they damage my bike
Organization: Pegasus,  Honolulu
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 15:13:07 GMT

>>I've sailed over all kinds of stuff on all kinds of junky bikes (road
>>bikes mostly).  It never seemed to hurt any of them.  (No need to pull
>>up on the pedals either, just twist the handle bars -- better control
>>and works on anything.)
>
>Could you elaborate on this.  Do you mean you just wait until you reach
>the obstacle and twist your front wheel from side to side as you reach it.
>I can't see what this would achieve unless you are going very slow.
>And would your technique work in pot holes - which "bunny hops" do handle
>I am told?

I refuse to call them bunny hops.  Do it at speed and you're flying, not
hopping.

No, you don't turn the wheel from side to side.  You twist your wrists
so that the rear wheel lifts off the ground (it helps to get `light on
your feet' while you're at it).  It takes some practice but is fairly
easy once you get the hang of it.  A little twist for the rear and a
little lift for the front at the same time and the whole bike is airborne.

Using this technique you can ride over a brick, 4x4, whatever, at
almost any speed without touching it.  At lower speeds you lift each
wheel separately.

-- 
Richard Foulk		richard@pegasus.com
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23615 rec.motorcycles:38450
From: tjohnson@atcc5.prime.com (Tod J Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.motorcycles
Subject: Spanning The Globe
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:53:06 GMT
Reply-To: tjohnson@atc1.UUCP (Tod J Johnson)
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

Men, Woman, Children, Mr, Nugent;

	As you know I spend 10-14 hours a day in research libraries
all over the globe uncovering little known facts to inform you about
the enjoyment, and of course safety, pertaining to the variety of
vehicles discussed here in rec.motorcycles and rec.bicycles. I was
in Guam when I came across the following information comparing the
legal proceedings of motorcyclists vs. bicyclists; as well as an
indication of the public perception of each.

From 1988 to 1990...

*Juries awarded 67% of injured motorcyclists $$$$, 45% of bicyclists.
*Juries awarded >$50k 40% of the time to motorcyclcists, 24% for bicyclists.
*Juries awarded 69% of motorcyclists who were "cut-off" $$$, while only
 awarding 30% of bicyclists $$$$.
*Just barely over 50% of bicyclists were awarded money when rear-ended.
*There are 10 million regular bicycle riders, and 23 million who ride
 "once in a while". There are 4.2 million motorcyclists.
*It also mentioned that bicyclists "rarely" collect money when riding
 at night without illumination.
*3 out of every 4 motorcyclists make up 75% of the motorcycling population
 while only 2 out of every 5 bicyclists make up only 40% of the bicycling
 population.

	The article is from the December 1991 issue of Bicycling, which
I have borrowed and will return promptly to its rightful owner upon my
next journey through Guam. Just food for thought. As a rider of each
vehicle, and a damn concerned American, I will continue to research and
enlighten you with information as it becomes available, or I choose to
just make it up off the top of my head.

Thank-you all for voting;

Tod J. Johnson
DoD #883
"Go Slow, Take Geritol, Whats a peg?, Whats a Toe-Clip"
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: twjm8@isuvax.iastate.edu
Subject: Re: Tandem Questions
Reply-To: twjm8@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 16:01:47 GMT

>Comments on these particular bikes?
>Are these prices good?  Anyone know where I can get a better deal?
>What are your thoughts on 26 inch vs. 700cc wheels for road riding tandems?
>Do I need a drum brake?
>Anyone riding and Ibis tandem?
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated,
>
>Matt 
>blake@nas.nasa.gov
>

Matt:
I have many of the same questions.  I am not in the market yet, but I would
like to eventually get a tandem for myself and my wife-to-be.  We are very
close to the same sizes (well, I'm an inch shorter and 20 lbs lighter) and I
would like to hear the responses you get.  Could you forward them to

djv@sabine.psu.edu

(not the address I sent this from -- this is her account).  Thanks a lot.

Dave
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Date: Thu,  5 Nov 1992 06:30:16 -0500 
From: "Robert J. Havey" <havey+@CMU.EDU>
Subject: *** Name This Bike ***      



i'm in need of a new bike.  i presently have a Nishiki regal-15 touring bike
which i use everyday for my 30-mile commute on rough, hilly, pittsburgh
terrain in whatever weather.  that's fine.  the problem is that it is my only
bike, and since i have become much more serious with cycling, i find it quite
lacking (like speed and agility, though it has plenty of weight-- ~30lbs) when
it comes to those fast weekend rides or doing a century.  i've spent some
money upgrading some components which has helped significantly, but i've
reached the point where i'll never be satisfied with what this bike can offer.

here's what i need:  i need speed, though i'm no professional racer.  i don't
have an endless supply of money, so i'm interested in a good buy.  i could
handle ~$700 to ~$1000 but that's not inflexible.  quick and responsive
would be a treat.  i'm not interested in spending an additional $x00 on some
marginal improvement that i'd hardly notice.  sometimes i go camping for the
weekend, so i meed to be able to haul all of my gear on my bike on a 100 mile
ride up into the mountains.  i want clipless pedals, a component group i can
count on, either an 8-speed with a double or a 7-speed with a triple crank (i
like my triple; it's nice to have a super high and a super low gear), and i'm
really turned on to the idea of STI or campy's ergopower.

ok, maybe i'll have to spend a bit over $1000.  given this tall order, what's
the net's best suggestion on what will satisfy me the best?  any leads would
be greatly appreciated--the local stores seem mostly interested in taking my
money and not finding the best bike for my needs.

please respond by e-mail to havey+@cmu.edu if possible.

thanks,

bob
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23637 misc.fitness:8345
From: lrxi00@icts01.Kodak.COM (James Nonnemacher)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,misc.fitness
Subject: Re: Winter Warmth: Lycra Vs. Everything else
Date: 10 Nov 92 15:11:32 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co

For running, I've been using some "heavy weight" Lycra pants I purchased locally, the brand name on
the set was Hot Chillis, the other were Hind's. I've used both down to about 30 deg without any
discomfort. For cycling, I tried the "Hot Chillis" and until I got warmed up (so to speak) some body
parts were definately cold. I recently got a pair of Descente cold weather biking pants from NashBar,
used then in 20 deg weather and all was ok. PS, I wear a polypro T-neck under a Gore-Tex jacket for
running, a wool top went over the polypro when cycling in the 20's -- all was ok.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: mac4@cec1.wustl.edu (Miguel Angel Cotignola)
Subject: Help
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 17:55:41 GMT

Hello everybody:

I am a student at Washington University at St. Louis and we just created the
W.U. Mountain Bike Club.  So I am looking for some pictues or desings for our
shirts.  Therefore if anybody has any cool picture or design we really
apreciate if we can use it.  We have no money from school this year, but I
promise that the owner of the design we choose will get at least a shirt.

					Thank you very much
					Miguel

	address:Miguel A. Cotignola
		6515 Wydown Box 3777
		St. Louis, MO, 63105

 
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23629 rec.motorcycles:38665
From: shoun@netcom.com (Lissa Shoun)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Spanning The Globe
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:19:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1992Nov9.191937.18550
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Nov6.215206.27504@rd.hydro.on.ca> 
jlevine@rd.hydro.on.ca (Jody Levine) writes:
>In article <4236@cvbnetPrime.COM> 
tjohnson@atc1.UUCP (Tod J Johnson) writes:
>>Men, Woman, Children, Mr, Nugent;
>
>Am I the only woman here? Who is Ted?

In answer to your questions: No. Who cares?

And I have some questions of my own. Who is Nugent? Is he the pig
from "All Creatures Great and Small"? I didn't know he read
rec.motorcycles. Does he ride? Has anyone ever seen a pig
ride a motorcycle?

-- 
Lissa
shoun@netcom.com     (408) 926-0812
Organization: Junior, Chemical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Date: Thu,  5 Nov 1992 22:12:47 -0500 
From: "Christopher L. Morrow" <cm43+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Maillard Helico-Matic Freewheels?
	<022b02ap2a2201@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>

I friend of mine got a hold of an old Peugot this sumemr, it had a Helicomatic
freehub on it, it seems to work great on his bike.  Anyway, he wsa interested in
getting a new set of cogs for it and was able to find some at a local shop, I 
think.  Let me try and find out where he got his new set of cogs from...
If you still are looking for a new set, let me know and I'll mail you the place
where he found his set.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.running
From: ddozier@daled.unet.com (Dale Dozier)
Subject: Re: Exersize and calories burned
Organization: Network Equipment Technologies, Redwood City
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1992 21:40:52 GMT

>ddozier@daled.net.com (Dale Dozier) writes:
>>         Heart Rate -vs- Weight and Calories Burned Per Hour
>> 
>>                               WEIGHT
>> HR        100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 140 145 150 155 160
>                                                        ^^^^^^^^^^^ ???
>
>society: discrimination.  I was a competetive swimmer before I turned cyclist/
>triathalete and, believe it or not, the bigger (height and build) the swimmer
>is usually the better swimmer.  As a result, I'm a fairly lean (~10% body fat)
>180 lbs. at 6 feet tall.  I guess it would have been nice to increase the 
>range.  (I'm really not flaming, just pointing something out.)
>


It really wasn't meant for the Net but for me personally and I was 
just sharing MY chart. No discrimination was entended. Sorry. The
numbers are easily interporable up to any weight you wish. 10%
body fat is my goal for competitive reasons. Right now I am at
about 15%. Since I have been training at lower intensities and 
watching the calories AND the fat I have lost 2lbs in 2 weeks. I have
been using this home made chart as a guide so that I eat enough
for the ride/run without over eating. I also assume that at lower
intensity training that more calories will be coming from fat.
I did a century in 6 hours and did not bonk using this table.
That is really the use that it was entended for.  As I collect
more data I will post an update that may be more accurate
up to 300 POUNDS! :-)

-Dale


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: brockr@muvaxa.rferl.org (Train, Learn, Climb, Ride)
Subject: Winter clothing and sweat
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Radio Free Europe
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 08:24:00 GMT

  Hi all,

  question about riding in the winter and winter clothing.  I recently
purchased some riding clothes and the local neighbourhood bike shop so I
can continue my cycling in the winter.  The long-sleeved shirt I bought
is made of 65% of some man-made substance or other, 25% cotton and 10%
wool.  However, I have noted that whenever I stop for a break, and while
sweating, after about 5 minutes I really start to freeze.  Seems my
sweat is indeed being absorbed by the shirt but the wetness of the shirt,
lying on my back starts giving me the chills, again after taking a break.
Is this normal?  Or, have I just bought a lousy shirt?  Is the material
at fault?  Any suggestions/thoughts are welcome.  Thanks in advance.

  Richard Brock
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:23625 rec.bicycles.marketplace:1049 rec.bicycles.tech:1816 rec.running:3102 rec.sport.triathlon:1395
From: fwu@be.seas.upenn.edu (Frank I Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.marketplace,rec.bicycles.tech,rec.running,rec.sport.triathlon
Subject: RollerBlades
Date: 8 Nov 92 06:27:18 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

This may not be entirely appropriate in this newsgroup; however, I do not know
of any 'RollerBlade' newsgroup, nevertheless...

I'm considering rollerblading as an alternative to cycling.  I'm a student
living in Philadelphia and find it down right dangerous and impossible to ride
around this area.  Most of my rides are solo or with another person.  No group.
Anyways, does anybody have any information/opinions on RollerBlades?
What do you think about the new Cool Blade or Aero Blade?  Are the alternatives
to RollerBlade (i.e., Bauer, California, etc.) any better?  

Any information (products and personal experience/opinions) would be exteremely
helpful.  Thanks in advance.

frank.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 13 Nov 1992 10:45:47 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Accurate cuts with a circular saw (was: Circular Saw
              recommendations)
              13 Nov 1992 08:08:28 -0600 from <guido@BLINK.ATT.COM>

On Fri, 13 Nov 1992 08:08:28 -0600 Guido Bertocci said:
>news@tivoli.UUCP (New owner) writes:
>
>>With the discussion of circular saw cutting attachments I thought it
>>worthwhile to mention a low-cost, low-tech carpenter's jig with which you
 can
>>make very accurate cuts:
>
>>Take a sheet of plywood with an edge as straight as the cuts you'd like to
>>produce.  Cut a strip about 6" wide the length of the plywood.  Cut a second
>>strip about 12" wide.  The accuracey of these cuts doesn't matter.
>>Attach the first strip to the second (e.g. with drywall screws) as show
> below.
>>The inside edge of the first piece must be the factory cut edge.
>
>>
>>        1 |-------|
>>          |-------|---------|
>>        2 |-----------------|
>
>You can expand on the utility slightly by extending "2" on both sides of "1"
>>
>>             1 |-------|
>>          |----|-------|---------|
>>        2 |----------------------|
>
>By trimming with both sides of your circular saw you now have a guide
>for both sides of the saws plate.

 Your can expand it even further by using it for your router on one side
 and your circular saw on the other side.......
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: Skeptical about biscuit joiners
Organization: Open Software Foundation
	<1992Oct30.181500.20399@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> <18301@ksr.com>
Distribution: na
Date: 9 Nov 92 12:34:39

In article <18301@ksr.com> jaynes@ksr.com (Steve Jaynes) writes:

   I would like to comment regarding the thread regarding the strength
   of biscuit joints.  If used properly, the biscuit, like dowels, adds
   very little structural strength to the joint.  Rather, it serves to
   align the surfaces during gluing.  The GLUED JOINT SURFACE is what
   provides the strength for the joint.  The surfaces must be prepared
   properly as with all glued joints, be they plain, doweled, or
   biscuited (don't you just love the way new verbs can be made in
   english?).

BTW - please don't post 300 character lines.

Dowels and biscuits both do much more than alignment.  They also
provide gluing area and structural strength.  They allow one to 
join end grain to long grain,  etc.  In particular you can build
small carcases with biscuits or dowels and the major strength is
in the dowels or biscuits.  

Joining board edges are a different matter.  There the major 
purpose of the biscuit or dowel is,  in fact,  alignment.
--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
From: garry@alice.att.com (garry hodgson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Lathe recommendations?
Summary: What should I be looking for?
Keywords: lathe, beginner, low-cost
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:32:49 GMT
Reply-To: garry@alice.UUCP ()
Distribution: rec
Organization: AT&T, Bell Labs

Note:

I'm reposting this, as I haven't heard a word about
it and suspect it didn't get out.  Sorry if you've already
seen it.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Hi folks -

I've been thinking about looking for a lathe this year.
I don't know much about them, and have no previous experience
to draw upon.  I'd be interested in turning some bowls,
sticks (for martial arts use), etc.  I don't have a lot
to spend, maybe ~200.
I have read the WorkBench article in May '91, but it
doesn't have much in-depth info, and mostly covers machines
way out of my price range.  So I also thought I'd
poll the collective wisdom of the net.

So:

	What features should I be looking for?

	Where can/can't I trade off features/performance for cost?

	What accessories will I need?  might I want?

	What specific models would you recommend/disrecommend?

	What books or other methods are good to learn from?

	What other questions should I be asking?

	Who should I buy from for best prices?

I noticed a Central Machinery lathe in the Harbor Freight
catalog for ~ $160.  Is this a good deal/bad/deal/junk?
I've also seen one in the Grizzly catalog for about the same.
The WorkBench article talks about the Penn State XL-40-02 and
the Sears 9 HT 22816.  Any thoughts?
	
Feel free to add any other info you feel would be useful.
I can summarize to the net if there is interest (maybe add to FAQ?).

Thanks a lot for your help.

-- 
Garry Hodgson			A slow winter day
AT&T Bell Labs			A night like forever
garry@alice.att.com		Sink like a stone
att!alice!garry			Float like a feather
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: john@azulita.cactus.org (John R. Miller)
Subject: Re: Straight Edge for Jointer Alignment
Organization: none
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 09:31:25 GMT

In article <140610@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:

  The way they made sure it was an arc with infinite radius was to sight the
  two ends and the middle with a theodolite or surveyor's transit.  Since light
  moves in an almost straight line in Earth's gravitational field, aligning the
  ends and the middle gave them the three points they needed.  Ought to be
  child's play for a guy working on the MMT.

I should let this pass, as it's getting rather far off the subject of
this newsgroup, but I find that I can't.  Light doesn't move in an
almost straight line, and it doesn't matter whether it's in a strong
gravitational field or a weak one or no field at all.  Light moves in
a perfectly straight line, period.  When physicists speak of light
being curved around a body (the sun, for example), they really mean
that space is curved around it but light continues to follow the
straightest path possible, as it always does.  In particular, it
follows the path you would want an ideal straight edge to follow.

(I am, however, ignoring the effects of variations in the medium that
can cause refraction, or, even more obviously nonstraight,
reflection.)

In fact, I was thinking of suggesting that the original poster borrow
a laser from work to align the jointer.
----
John R. Miller		512/331-0155	john@azulita.cactus.org
13102 Briar Hollow Dr.			..cs.utexas.edu!balkan!azulita!john
Austin, Tx  78729			john@glasnost.austin.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Subject:  Re: Router Table Inquiries 
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 03:57:50 GMT

In article <WOODWORK%92110515034951@IPFWVM.BITNET> Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET> writes:
>The great advantage of plunge routers is that you can safely and easily
>begin and end cuts in the middles of boards - e.g., fully housed
>mortises.  Most of the time, though, I have my plunge router mounted in
>my router table, where the plunge feature really goes to waste.  I've
>been thinking about constructing a treadle mechanism that would allow me
>to raise the bit up into a board on the table.  This would have to have
>some sort of rachet to lock the bit at full height, as well as a
>provision for releasing the rachet so that the bit could be lowered at
>the end of the cut.  Has anyone out there built anything like this?  Any
>ideas?

Sounds like a pin router (or does the pin router have the router on top?). In
any case, theres a pin on the other face which can ride in a template to do
fast, repeatable routing. Usually they have a foot pedal (air driven) which
plunges the router. They're pretty nice, but expensive.
From: sjc@cs.purdue.edu (Steve Chapin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Reviews wanted!
Date: 11 Nov 1992 11:55:46 -0500
Organization: Department of Computer Sciences, Purdue University
Distribution: rec
NNTP-Posting-Host: bredbeddle.cs.purdue.edu


If you've got a review, whether of a vendor, a machine, an
after-market fence, a hand tool, blades and bits, I want it!

Right now the information archive is almost empty.  Send me your
reviews, and I'll put them in the archive for FTP access (I'm looking
into mail access for those without internet connections).

Partiuclarly wanted (because of FAQ on them):
	Table saws
	Aftermarket rip fences
	Routers
	Jointers

And as always, plans are welcome (PostScript preferred).

sjc@cs.purdue.edu               Steve Chapin           Today's Grammar Lesson:
                     Those two want to go to the zoo, too!
                  They're aware bears bare their hair there.

             If I don't want it in my back yard, I don't want it.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking