HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mark@nwra.com (Mark)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Date: 26 Aug 92 20:19:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Northwest Research Associates, Inc.

In article <1992Aug25.174501.9993@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
cooper@endeavor.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Bob Cooper x7429) writes:

   I just bought a 15 year old house with a 2 car garage.  I
   want to paint the floor with (I guess) an glossy epoxy paint.
   Any suggestions or problems?

I used Sherwin-Williams Tile-Clad II Epoxy and had excellent
results. They can custom-mix the color you want.
You'll have to clean the garage floor very well -
muriatic acid is recommended. Do not use this stuff w/o a
respirator (<$20). 

    )_ _               -------------------------------------------    
   /  ) ) _        /       Mark Baldwin - mark@sparky.nwra.com
  /  / / / / /\_  /_/  Northwest Research Associates, Bellevue, WA
 /  / /_(_/_/  (_/ \__ -------------------------------------------  
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: brokaw@flamingo.weeg.uiowa.edu (Pete Brokaw)
Subject: CARPET: Burber (sp) recommendations?
Keywords: carpet, burber, berber
Organization: Weeg Computing Center, University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:38:11 GMT

I don't know how to spell it, but I like the look of it.  Can you 
recommend or disparage burber carpet? (It looks like a woven rug rather
than a standard latch-hook carpet.)  I'm wondering how it stands up 
over the long haul.  Is it hard to clean and keep clean?  

Thanks in advance.
Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  "The secret to a long life's knowing when it's time to go."
							pete-brokaw@uiowa.edu
							weeg computing center
							   university of iowa
							  iowa city, ia 52242
From: amy@vineland.pubs.stratus.com (Amy McNulty)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: silverfish!
Date: 27 Aug 92 15:45:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: transfer.5946

This morning when I opened my kitchen cabinet,
a silverfish scurried past. I caught him 
before he could escape, but I'm worried about any
of his friends who could be lurking in the dark 
recesses of my cabinets....

Any suggestions for a safe, non-toxic method for
discouraging them from occupying the premises?
(I don't care about killing them, I just want to
keep them out of my house!) In the past I've used 
various herbal/non-chemical solutions to get rid of 
other pests such as mice and ants, and I'm hoping
someone knows such a solution for silverfish.

Thanks!

______________________________________________________________
amy_mcnulty@vos.stratus.com  OR  amy@vineland.pubs.stratus.com
Amy McNulty -- Stratus Computer, Marlboro, MA
Stratus pays me to write, but not to write this!
From: becker@edwards-vax.af.mil
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Killing burglars
Date: 26 Aug 92 08:02:50 -0800
Organization: IFAST - EDWARDS Air Force Base

From: hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale) writes....

stuff deleted...

>This depends on whether the police will even deal with it.  The police
>are under no legal obligation to protect any individual.  Note that
>during the LA riots the police were telling people "sorry".  Police
>response time in this county is 1 to 3 hours during weekends; do you
>expect to be able to hold out for that long while an intruder roams
>through your house?

What?????  Isn't the motto painted on the doors of police cars
TO SERVE AND PROTECT?  POlice response time varies.  Sometimes it
is right on somtimes not.  Depending on all thats going on.  AS for the
LA riots....they were there doing what they could do.  We don't have
enough officers to go around.  Besides the LA police can't do anything
right according to the media, their dammed if they do and dammed if
they don't.  What the media gives you and what really happens are
two different things.  The media is more apt to elaborate on the bad,
rather then the good. 

From: hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 19:02:24 GMT
Subject: Re: new house thermostat needed
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In response to my post, I have received several replies that have 
mentioned Honeywell Chronotherm II, Hunter and Robertshaw. I'll 
post my own reply when I get closer to actually replacing the unit.
Actually, these days I'm just trying to find the transformer that
is supposedly supplying the power to run it. I've looked all over
but can only find the doorbell's transformer...
Howard
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Kitchen counters, Roof repairs, Carpets
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 92 20:18:06 GMT

In article <MACRAKIS.92Aug27145009@next4.osf.org> macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:

>   On the countertop. There was a thread recently to the effect that you
>   take this up with lacquer thinner....Put your new plastic down with
>   contact cement per the directions....
>
>But he said the laminate is "curved up to meet wall".  I assume that
>this refers to a postformed laminate top.  You can't postform laminate
>yourself, so he needs to replace the top to change color.

Whoops, missed that! Ok. You won't be able to replace it with a hard
plastic like Formica. If you want that, as Stavros says, it's new
countertop time.

However, Home Depot (and possibly others) sells a flexible countertop
covering. My brother used it in his house (the builders apparently didn't
know what a plumb bob was). This comes on a roll and is sold by the foot.
John's countertop looked great once it was done. I don't know how durable
the stuff is; I suspect it's not as good as Formica.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you have a tank which can move and communicate,
George Patterson -  |   but which cannot shoot, essentially what you have
                    |   is a sixty-five ton portable radio.
                    |                Fort Bragg School of Armour
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: cola@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Ken Colasuonno)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:09:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Basement Finishing - What to do????
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house


Ahhhh, the PROJECT!  I did my basement last year.

I did: Electrical subpanel.  Framing.  All other Electrical. All
Plumbing for full bath.  Made counter top for bathroom vanity.
Install tile backsplash.  Bought 5-piece shower surround (tile was big
$$) Did all finish carpentry.  Prime paint coated drywall.  Finish
coat paint on drywall.  Rented airless sprayer for painting.  
Insulated walls.

I did not do: hang, tape, float or texture drywall. Did not install
linoleum in bathroom.   Did not install carpet.  
They finished the drywall in a week.  I was impressed!  I would have
taken much longer but ran out of time.  Next basement I finish, I will
job out the drywall again.  I figure if you screwup the drywall,
nothing you can do will fix it.  Get a professional to do it if you
are not a perfectionist.  But you are lacking in time and they already
know the tricks.

I bought a bathroom cabinet from the local cabinet maker - real cheap,
found a cabinet that matched others in my house in his "Bone-yard"
(screwup pile).  Made the counter top myself.

Framing took ~10 man-days.  Rent a power nailer!  Rough plumbing took
~2 man-days.  Rough electrical ~3 man-days.  Finish
plumbing/electrical took about 2 days each.  Finish carpentry (stain,
polyuerethane, install) took a bunch of time.  (Still haven't finished
covering all the nail holes!)  Planning the project took lots of time!
Shop around for prices.  Get each place to bid on all materials for
entire job.

Of course this PROJECT comsumed almost EVERY spare second of my time
last summer.  Started June 16th, carpet was laid right after labor
day.

Get a building permit.  Next house I buy that has finished basement, I
will demand to see building permit.  I have seen some pretty shitty
home-owner finish jobs.  Besides looking bad, I bet they have some
kludgy electrical/plumbing.  Your inspectors are a GREAT source of
information on what is acceptable and what is not.

Good luck!

It really is fun.

Ken

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ken Colasuonno                 Hewlett Packard - VXI Systems Division
P.O. Box 301                   VEE R&D Team
Loveland, CO  80539            Internet:  cola@lvld.hp.com
(303) 679-2903                 Mailstop CU325 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: steve@boi.hp.com (Steve Petrie)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to Clean STUCCO Exterior on House
Date: 1 Sep 92 14:57:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: mail.BtwMvz.9w9
Distribution: na
Organization: HP Disk Memory Division, Boise ID.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

girish.jain (gkj@cbnewsh.cb.att.com) wrote:
=> I have STUCCO on the exterior in the front of my home (white). It
=> has become dirty at many places, with some spots being really bad
=> and greasy, partly from the rain water splashing, or otherwise.
=> 
=> Any recommendations on Cleaning Solvents/Solutions or Methods I
=> can use. I tried the standard Kitchen and Bathroom cleaners like
=> Fantastik or Mr. Clean etc., they are probably too mild or are
=> not meant for a rough surface like stucco. Please post on this
=> network, or email at gkj@wmsa.att.com. Thanks.

  We have the exact same situation at our house.  Rain has splashed mud onto the
stucco from the flower beds (brand new house) as well as some dis-coloration from
hard water from the sprinklers.

  We've tried several things.  A product free from the local water company
("Red-be-Gone", or something like that) helped somewhat with the hard water
discoloration, but not with the dirt buildup.  I've scrubbed using various 
cleaners we had around the house, but I've had far from satisfactory results.

  If anyone else has suggestions, I'd really like to hear them as well.

 Thanks!!

--

-Steve Petrie   steve@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
From: djd@agent99.Eng.Sun.COM (Dave Damkoehler - Sun BOS Editor)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Attached garage price: Any guidelines?
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Date: 3 Sep 1992 15:01:20 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc. - BDC
NNTP-Posting-Host: agent99.east.sun.com



(Apologies if I've posted this to the wrong newsgroup, but I figured
this group includes folks who are most likely to have first-hand info.)

My wife and I are considering adding a two-car garage to our Western Massachusetts house, attached by way of an enclosed breezeway. Have you
heard of any fairly accurate cost-per-square-foot guidelines that will
give us an idea of what we're looking at?

What we have in mind is a new 32' X 22' structure (704 square feet),
sided with cedar clapboard and roofed with standard asphalt shingles.
The breezeway portion---about 12' X 22'---will rise about one-and-a-half
stories, while the garage portion will total about two stories (to
compensate for slope without bringing in fill and expensive sitework).
Only the breezeway portion will require finish work, such as drywall.
We'll need an electrician to extend lines into the addition, but no
plumbing or heating. The foundation will be slab.

Any $$$ guesses?


Thanks in advance,
Dave
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Re: Cleaning a Deck
Reply-To: 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 19:47:28 GMT

On a similar note, I have a deck made out of pressure treated wood that
is in dire need of refinishing.  There's mildew on the bottom side and
the opaque stain or paint that was used has peeled off in the higher traffic
areas.

Will one of these pressure sprayers take the old finish off, or just
the flakes?  I'd like to stain the deck, rather than paint it so I'm
intent on removing the old finish and getting rid of the grey areas.
Should I use and oxalic (sp) acid mix to reduse the effects of the
weathering?  

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.  Thanx. 

-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Alleviating Dampness - I live in a cave
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 20:43:39 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

gheim@eng.auburn.edu (Greg Heim) writes:

> 
> I have just moved into a basement apartment that is _very_ damp.  I
> have a fan blowing through at all times, but that doesn't help much.
> Can anyone tell me the best way to kill the dampness?  If the best way
> is to get a dehumidifier, can anyone give me some cheap alternatives to
> get me by until I can afford one?

Get a bigger fan, and set a small window A/C on a chair with a bucket under 
the drip outlet. Works real well as a dehumidifier, and can be put to its'
proper use when you move into a real apartment or house. Should be
possible to find one in the want ads for $50 or so. You don't want a 
big one (5000BTU maximum).

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: tavares@danville (Jack Tavares)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: !st TIme Buyers Credit?
Date: 27 Aug 92 14:17:09 GMT
Reply-To: tavares@ctron.com

Did they ever do anything about creating a firsttime
home buyers credit?

If so, where can I get details?

Thank you

Jack Tavares	(603) 332-9400 x 1463 (603) 332-1019 (FAX)
Cabletron 	PO Box 5005 Rochester, NH 03867-0505
Disclaimer: Cabletron could care less!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 15:18:01 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.203341.11080@michael.apple.com> ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith) writes:

>>the last five to finish him off
>>while he's stunned.  
>
>This will result in wrongfull death charges, at least.  

This has been said repeatedly, but here it is again. State laws vary.
More importantly, local practices vary.

This will result in no charges at all in either Tennessee or Georgia,
and probably in most states that aren't in the northeast. Most law
enforcement officials regard their duty as protection of the citizens
residing in their area. No Georgia sherrif is going to arrest one of
"his" taxpayers because some scum got blown away.

The wife of a friend of mine in Kennesaw shot and killed a peeping tom
(no, this is NOT legal there). Turned out, the peeping tom was a prison
escapee. She was not charged. If you aren't charged, you will not go to
trial.

When I lived in Georgia, I kept my shotgun loaded with #7 shot, because
I intended to stop an intruder, not necessarily kill him. I switched to
00 buck when I moved to NJ because I can't afford to leave him alive up
here.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Statistics": A means of presenting your personal
                    |   prejudices in convincing political disguise.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Date: 27 Aug 92 16:22:25 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs


In article <mjc.714864001@NL.CS.CMU.EDU>, mjc+@cs.cmu.edu (Monica Cellio) writes...
>So, what specific weapons and ammo do you folks recommend for home 
>protection?  Assume it's for an adult with no previous firearms experience
>(bows and crossbows aside) and a willingness to learn.  (Of course, no weapon
>gets into my house under *my* power before I've been properly trained with 
>it.)  Goals are to maximize effectiveness (shooting to wound is stupid) while 
>minimizing both risk to others (pass-through on walls) and property damage.
> 
>I would have sent email, but I suspect there are others who would like to
>know.  I am not being sarcastic.
Small gauge shotgun (.410 or 20 gauge) is desirable over pistol or rifle.
Bullets will pass through many walls before stopping, placing other
household members and neighbors in jeopardy.  You are more likely to hit
your target with a shotgun as well.

	Randy Marks
(UUCP)	                {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks
(INTERNET)              marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com
(domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com
..........................................................................
	"No man's life, liberty, or property is safe
	while the legislature is in session."
..........................................................................
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Best Hardware Store
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:52:05 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Andy writes:
>(I had said):
>
>> My vote goes to Home Depot.
>
>I haven't bought anything from Home Depot since
>I learned that they do drug tests on all their employees.

Based on some of the employees there, I think their tests are ineffective ;-).

>-- 
>				--Andrew Koenig
>				  ark@europa.att.com

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 12 gauge vs 14 gauge wiring price
Keywords: electrical wiring
Date: 27 Aug 92 18:08:14 GMT
Reply-To: erickson@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson)
Organization: Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

In article <3754@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>In article <1992Aug24.210136.678@cs.cornell.edu> chrisb@cs.cornell.edu (Chris Buckley) writes:
>>Anybody have a rough ballpark figure for the cost of building a
>>new house with 12 gauge wiring instead of 14-gauge?

Just a reference point: we used 20 boxes (=5,000 ft.) of 12 ga. Romex to
wire our new house, with lots of circuits and a fully wired workshop.  The
avg. cost per box was $29.

>>A major reason we want the 12 gauge is more reliable power so we can
>>plug in computers anywhere in the house.  Does anybody have other
>>suggestions?
>
>I wouldn't do 12ga just for computers.  They're pretty minor in the
>scheme of things.  

We previously rented a house which had all bedroom outlets wired with
14 ga.  I had a Mac II and a Laserwriter on one of these circuits, 
along with an incandescent desk lamp, and every time the Laserwriter was 
turned on the lights would start dimming.  I had PG&E come out and test the 
voltage to our panel, which was fine.  I doubt that the voltage drop was 
sufficient to hurt the computer/printer, but it was sure a pain to have lights 
constantly changing their brightness.

Dave Erickson
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drevik@utkvx4.utk.edu (Drevik, Steve)
Subject: Re: suggested weapons (was: Killing burglars.)
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords: dumb rednecks, Darwin, Evolution in Action  
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 02:31:00 GMT

In article <sbarnhar-270892131927@morril6t-21.micro.umn.edu>, sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu (Dr. Barnhart) writes...
>In article <1992Aug27.160209.26686@oracle.pnl.gov>, d3a132@pnl.gov (Carl P
>Baker) wrote:
>> 
>> In article 270892083653@morril6t-21.micro.umn.edu, sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu (Dr. Barnhart) writes:
>> >I've had this conversation with some police officers I know, and they have
>> >been fairly unanimous in recommending a 12 guage shotgun with the shortest
>> >legal barrel length, no choke, and loaded with #4 magnums.  (One of the
>> 
>> NOT speaking from personal experience, but I can't imagen anything scarier
>> than looking down the wrong end of a twelve bore at a frightened angry
>> homeowner protecting her family.  This recommendation makes the most sense
>> to me.  A cloud of shotgun pellets is awfully destructive at short range
>> (less than 20 yards or so), and awfully innocuous after passing through
>> a wall or 70 yards or so of air.
> 
>I know someone who was hit in the chest with shot while pheasant hunting,
>but a hundred yards downrange at the bottom of the pellet arc.  He said the
>pellets just bounced off, although he was a little frightened.
> 

A humerous story: Two good old boys were arguing this fact... how far downrange 
you could be of a 12-gauge firing birdshot & not get hurt.  Bubba (I am
inserting my own names here...I don't recall the exact names from the front
page story in our local paper) said 50 yards, while Billy Joe said 100 yards.
Bubba said "bet me." Billy Joe did.  Bubba went 50 yards across the yard, 
and told Billy Joe to shoot him.  Too bad Billy Joe didn't get the money
for the bet up front....


>> 
>> By #4 magnums do you mean 4 inch?  What size shot?  I think that I would save
>> the rock salt for pesky teenage hoodlums (:-)), and stick to lead shot for
>> the home invader.  Have to remember that baseball bat thing.  Handy to have
>> while your watching over him waiting for the police to come (if he happens
>> to not be dead and you choose to keep him that way).
>> 
> 
>I meant #4 shot.  The reason this is suggested over something like the
>larger 00 shot is that there's just more pellets and that means greater
>spread and greater chance to hit something, more damage to the target, etc.
> By magnum I mean the higher power loads.  Usually they're 3" as opposed to
>2 3/4" in length.
> 
>Shawn Barnhart ! sbarnhar@mailbox.mail.umn.edu
>I'm not selling out, I'm buying in.
From: mccabe@gdls.UUCP (Harold McCabe)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: roof insulation & ventilation / asbestos in basement
Summary: absestos:  let it be
Date: 31 Aug 92 16:29:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: General Dynamics Land Systems, Sterling Heights, MI

In article <1992Aug28.160447.1265@beaver.cs.washington.edu>, pauld@cs.washington.edu (Paul Barton-Davis) writes:
> 2 questions about house stuff:
> 
> 2) Asbestos. We have some. A 1/4" strip apparently installed to
> "protect" the main 6x6 girder that holds up the center of the house
> from the "heat" of a hot air duct. I know we have to get rid of it,
> and I know that asbestos is Bad, but how urgent is this ? I ask with
(stuff deleted)

Unless the absestos is resulting in airborn fibers, the best approach may be
to leave it alone.  You could release many more fibers into the air by
removing it than if you just left it as is.  Call the EPA.  They have
brochures on things like this.  If you get a contractor to come in who
specializes in hazardous stuff like asbestos -- it could cost big bucks.

Harold McCabe

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Painting Garage Floor
Keywords: garage paint floor
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 19:00:03 GMT


An additional question on floor painting:  We're building a garage -
how long must the concrete cure before we consider painting the floor?

-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house