HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: frazer@ired460a.erim.org (Matt Frazer)
Subject: Cocker Spaniel Question
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Distribution: usa
Date: 25 Aug 92 13:26:32

Hi. This is my first attempt at posting. I have been reading rec.pets.dogs
for a couple of weeks and thought I would try to join in.

Two months ago we adopted a puppy from the pound. She was supposed to be
a German Shepherd mix (and looked like one) but she is turning out to
be very small (compared to a GSD).  Our vet chuckled when we asked about it,
and explained that she was a Cocker Spaniel mix rather than German Shepherd.
As she grows, we are seeing more and more of the distinctive Cocker Spaniel
ears and legs.

This is not a bad thing, as our house and yard is better for a smaller dog,
but we know very little about Cocker Spaniels.  I have read much of the
general "getting a new puppy" literature, and my family raised two GSDs
when I was a child, but I would like to know more specific information about
Cocker Spaniels. 

She will be a family pet type of dog, but I would also like some (semi)
serious obedience training also.  So far she seems very trainable and eager
but also has a short attention span. Is this commmon? How much can I expect
in the way of training?

How about protection of the house and family? I understand that this will
be limited by her small size, but barking (only when apropriate) would be
desirable. Are Cocker Spaniels "possesive" of family and home in this way?

Finally, I read the thread about giving a dog a "meaning" in life, and tend
to agree with it.  What does a Cocker Spaniel do best?  i.e. What things
could I put her to work at?  She seems to love to retrieve toys, so this
has been a regular part of her exercise time. Any other suggestions?

Overall, she is a very good, beautiful dog.

Thanks for any information
		Matt Frazer
		frazer@erim.org
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: isc30082@nusunix3.nus.sg (NG TEOW KHOON)
Subject: Dogs are lovely aren't they?
Organization: National University of Singapore
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 05:12:13 GMT

I love DOGS ! They are great companions !
From: trimpe_b@wums.wustl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: RE: Dogs and swimming - oh no !!
Date: 2 SEP 92 08:28:28 GMT
Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER
NNTP-Posting-Host: msnews.wustl.edu

In a previous article, us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi) wrote:
>    some text deleted
>I was out swimming over my head and here she comes a-swimming toward
>me.  She gets to me and puts her paws on my shoulders and down I
>go over my head.  I surface and she pushes me down again.  I think -
>MAN I could drown out here.  I couldn't swim away because she is
>faster.  I couldn't keep my head above water because she was resting
>on me.  I tried holding her paws but that pushed me under water too.
>I finally turned towards shore and swam with her SHARP claws scratching
>my back the whole way until I got to shallower water.
>    some text deleted 
>It never crossed my mind that a happy go lucky dog could drowned
>someone like that.  What would happen if it was a kid swimming?
>I keep my feet on the ground now when she's out swimming with me.
>Steve Anastasi	

	I know exactly what you mean.. when I see our yellow labrador
comeing at me in the lake I swim like hell.  I even have a sign above my 
desk "WORDS TO LIVE BY:  NEVER GET CLOSE TO A SWIMMING LABRADOR":-)
What you might try doing is grabbing her collar or tail and seeing if
she "saves you".  Someone suggested that to me (from the net?) and boy 
does it work.  Now if I can't get away from the dog I just let him save me.
At least he turns his feet and nails the other way and I can sorta half
swim while he 'pulls' me to safety.

Good luck
Beverly
Wash Univ. Med School
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: S**t eating dog
Date: 26 Aug 92 17:01:48 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<24740040@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH
Keywords: 

In article <24740040@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> loftis@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk
Loftis) writes:
>(In response to a complaint about a poop-eating Airedale)
>       As you probably have guessed this is a fairly common.  A trick
>that some people do is feed the dog a lot of garlic powder.  This will
>make the dog poop smell and hopefully deter any other dogs from dining
>on the stuff.  

This suggestion may backfire. Most dogs LOVE the taste and smell of garlic!
Adding garlic powder to poop will likely INCREASE its attractiveness, not
reduce it. 

Then Kirk continues:
>The garlic powder/pills will help keep the fleas down,
>you just have to put up with the smell.


I just can't resist, one more time, in debunking this myth.
Garlic, whether ingested, applied, sniffed or prayed to, will have ABSOLUTELY
NO effect on fleas residing on your dog or you. (Canine mythology and false
advertising claims notwithstanding)...... This not only my humble opinion,
but substantiated by veterinary research findings.

This myth is in the same category as garlic repelling vampires and the Black
Plague: you wear garlic around your neck; do not get killed by a vampire or
the plague; ergo, the GARLIC DID IT!

OK. Enough loud lecturing.
*************************************************************
Marget Johnson
-- 

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: jbh@anat.UMSMED.EDU (James B. Hutchins)
Subject: Re: Are dogs color blind?
Summary: Nope 
Organization: Dept. of Anatomy, Univ. Mississippi Medical Center
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 12:06:11 GMT

In article <BtK09D.9ru@hsi.com> hecht@hsi.com (Alice Hecht) writes:
>I remember hearing a long time ago that dogs are color blind.  Is this true?


Nope.  It's one of those things like, "chewing gum will stay in your
stomach for nine years if you swallow it" and "you only use 10% of your
brain" that everyone says but it is, most definitely, not true.

Dogs don't see as well as we do, but they are great at things like motion
detection. (Kiri, our foundling, can see a squirrel at 100 yds.)  They also
smell a lot better than we.

Jim

-- 
Jim Hutchins                    []     E-Mail: jbh@anat.umsmed.edu
Dept of Anatomy                 []
Univ Mississippi Med Ctr        []
From: bmahony@neumann.une.edu.au (Speedy Cevichi,Pizza Hut,Little Tokyo,555-pizza cats)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Feeding Dogs Veggies and Fruit?
Date: 4 Sep 92 00:33:22 GMT
Reply-To: bmahony@neumann.une.edu.au
Originator: bmahony@neumann.une.edu.au

From article <gebGkmK00Uh7Q5HW5C@andrew.cmu.edu>, by sh4d+@andrew.cmu.edu (Sandra J. Harris):
> I feed my dogs bits of fruits and raw veggies a lot (besides their main
> dog food);  I like to think that's why they're in such good shape!  They
> love carrots, beans, cucumbers, bananas, all melons, especially
> watermelon, apples, peaches, grapes are a biggie......
> 
> I haven't heard of anything wrong with dogs having veggie/fruit treats....
> 
> mine would be sad without them!
Hi
I agree with you there
I fed my old dog carrots, beans and peas etc. in stews and things...so that she had the meat flavour as well
I just recently got a puppy and I want to feed her the same
However, I don't have stews very often and I was wondering how you feed your dogs veges?
Do you have any special way that you feed them those?
I wouldn't think dogs would eat them straight...
If you have any tips I'd very much apreciate em =)

Thanks
From: krieger@egnext3.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Karen Krieger)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: 6 mo. old GSD vs. my 4 yo daughter - HELP
Date: 1 Sep 92 18:03:58 GMT

In article <1803j5INNf2b@moe.ksu.ksu.edu> terry@eece.ksu.edu (Terry Hull)  
writes:
> isjrc@dcatla.uucp (John R. Caruso) writes:
> 
> >	OK, what am I supposed to do? The dog thinks he's a kid.

> I do not allow my dogs to defend themselves against my son.  They have
> the absolute right to get up and leave, but growling, snarling,
> mouthing etc is not allowed.  Conversely, I do not allow my son to
> bother the dogs when they are eating, nor do I allow my son to chase
> them all over the house when he is obviously irritating them.

I read the entire article agreeing with everying Terry Hull writes with  
respect to her 3 dogs (2 Rottys) and young son. I would like to reiterate  
her statement that it's a two way street. A young child is unable to be  
the alpha dog, so respect for the dog(s) needs to be taught to the child,  
and respect for the adults need to be taught to the dog (and child). I  
would not leave a small child unattended with a large dog - even my own  
GSD is supervised carefully when family toddlers are present. It's your  
responsibility to see that neither gets irritated with the other and thus  
avoid tempers flaring. 

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: cmoussav@ssf-sys.DHL.COM (Carla Moussavi)
Subject: New Puppy - Need Advice!!
Organization: DHL Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 22:46:04 GMT

Hi,
  I just got a puppy, 12 weeks old, female, shepard/lab mix. My husband
and I work all day, and I need advice about the following things:

1. Is it necessary to get another puppy to keep her from being lonely?

   If so, should it be another female or a male?

   If not, what can I do to keep her happy during the day? She's outside
   during the day - any good toys I should buy her?

2. How can I train her to go to the bathroom in a specific area of the
   backyard? Is it possible, considering we're not there during the
   day, and at night, it's usually in the middle of the night while 
   we're sleeping. I've heard about feeding a puppy at just certain
   times, and then taking them to the "spot" right afterwards, waiting
   for them to go. Lots of praise then follows. In our case, I leave
   food and water for her at all times, again since we're not home during
   the day. I've tried putting out some store-bought sheets that are
   supposed to attract puppies for going to the bathroom, but she thinks
   they're toys and chews them up, leaving them all over the yard.

                  Thanks Much - Carla
From: heim@vms.macc.wisc.edu (JOHN HEIM	)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Hot dog
Date: 26 Aug 92 16:59:35 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin Academic Computing Center

In article <5327@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU>, krieger@egnext3.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Karen Krieger) writes...

>In article <1992Aug26.102447.1@opal.tufts.edu> gbelli@opal.tufts.edu  
>writes:
>>  in the heatall day.  It gets about 80 degrees inside.  What can I do to
>>  make him more comfortable ?  Obviously, I've left him extra water (with 
>> ice--don't laugh!), but what else can I do?  Also, what are signs of 
> 
>I'm not laughing - I leave my dog ice water on hot days as well. She can  
>stay outside or go in the garage, which is where I find her on hot days -  
>on cold concrete! If yours is an inside dog, I would suggest you pick up  
>the bathroom rugs so your beagle can lay on the tile floor (if possible).  
>I also give my dog gator-aid when we go to picnics and hot places. See if  
>your dog likes that during the day when you're gone.  

I'm puzzled by how immune my dog seems to heat.  A good example of 
what I'm talking about happened just last weekend.  It was 85-90 F 
here in Wisconsin last weekend and I was out in my garden.  The dog 
was chained up where he could reach shade easily and I brought out his 
water dish with icecubes in it.  

But the dog sat in the sun right up against the house where there's 
plenty of reflected heat.  A couple of times I dragged him into the 
shade thinking maybe he wasn't smart enough to get out of the sun but 
after a few minutes he went right back into the sun.

He always does stuff like that.  How come he never gets hot even 
though he can't sweat?

JGH
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: srb@atmosmips.jpl.nasa.gov (Susan Beutelschies)
Subject: Re: Snake-proofing (was Re: SHOCK COLLARS (go ahead flame ME!!))
Reply-To: srb@atmosmips.jpl.nasa.gov (Susan Beutelschies)
Organization: Image Analysis Systems Group, JPL
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 00:20:48 GMT

In article <2A9BECAB.23236@ics.uci.edu>, tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore) writes:
|> 
|> Just throwing in some information into the fray: as far as I know,
|> shock-collars are the single most effective way to snake-proof dogs...
|> Extremely useful, that, especially out west here.
|> 
|> --Cindy

This reminds me - when we took our dog backpacking a month ago, she brought
back to our camp a smelly already-dead snake.  I wondered what she would have
done if the snake were alive.  Do dogs have a natural instinct to avoid snakes?
(She's a Manchester terrier mix, if that matters.)  I assume by your post, Cindy,
that at least in many cases they don't.  So to snake-proof a dog, what do you use
as bait?  Would a rubber snake do, or is smell important?
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee)
Subject: Re: Dogs and Jogging
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 23:14:48 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.131115.26377@fns-nc1.fns.com> vib@fns-nc1.fns.com (Victor Bur) writes:

[stuff deleted]

>
>My opinion: if you are experienced jogger/runner, NO dog is suitable for
>you.  By "design", canines can deliver high speed for a short distance
>(during the pray chaise, for example), but they are not built for a long,
>steady running.  If you want to do that, watch for the damage you may
>inflict on dog's hips, and also have an emergency kit ready for injuries
>and/or overheating.
>
>Best regards,
>Victor
>

I would not say that NO dog is designed for running.  Many dogs lope for
many miles just fine.  You may have to adjust your normal jogging stride so 
that they can "lope", but it is certainly doable (with some breeds).  Distance 
mushing dogs (like those in the Iditarod) can lope for hundreds of miles (note
that lopping and running are not the same).

On this topic, I would just like to add to Terry's excellent post.  It is most
definite that not all dogs are suited for jogging.  His post mentioned some
dogs that would be suitable under certain conditions.  My concern would be
for the dog, and your ability to adjust your stride such that it is comfortable
for the dog.  In addition, if you run long distances, the surface over which
you run and the health of your dog paws is a consideration.  Temerature is
most certainly a concern, as the dog can easily become over heated.  FOr
example, I do not run my dogs if it is above 70F or so.  Just too hot for
them.  Other dogs that live in colder climates can overheat in 30F weather.

You might also want to consider a "Springer."  This is a device that attaches
to a bicycle and to your dog, and allows the dog to trot alongside of you
while you ride along.  This is good because you can more readily match your
"speed" to the dogs stride.  You can also cover longer distances, if desired.
The same cautions mentioned above and in Terry's post apply here as well of course.

With my sled dogs, they did not run much or pull anyting of consequence until 18 Months
old.  This gives pleanty of time for the muscular-skeleto system to evolve and
mature.  For most dogs, I would also recomend waiting until 18 Months to try something
as stressful as jogging.  Some breeds may be able to go sooner, but 18 months is
my rule-of-thumb.

Good luck.

-- 
============================================================
Stephen R. Lee                 | 
OooWoo Racing Kennel           | I'd rather be driving sled
E-Mail: srlee@beta.lanl.gov    | dogs.
From: danc@redx.washington.edu (Dan Comden)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Stress?
Date: 4 Sep 92 19:23:50 GMT
Organization: UW Information Systems

In article <04SEP92.09019312.0030@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>, LS45 <LS45@UNB.CA> writes:
> Jasper, the 3 month old puppy we got from the shelter Monday, has
> done really well about not having accidents in the house, but he does
> have a problem in the car.  So far we've only taken him on short trips,
> just to get him used to it (the longest was going home from the shelter)
> but if one of us leaves the car, or if we (the three of us) don't leave
> the car immediately after stopping, and also when we're driving (not as
> frequent), he has an accident.  

Do you crate the dog while he's in the car?  You might find he's more 
reluctant to piddle while he's in a crate.  Also, some folks say it's a 
safer method of transporting dogs, too, providing some extra protection
for the dog in case of a wreck.

>   [ text deleted ]
> even shorter drives (the others were 5-10 minutes)?  Any help
> would be greatly appreciated.

Try cutting it even shorter!  Get in the car with the pup but don't leave
the driveway.  Play with him in the car.  Have him jump in and out many
times without going anywhere.  From there, work up to driving around the 
block and returning home.  I believe you're on the right track with attempting
shorter trips.

> Thanks in advance,
> DMS

Good luck!

-*- Dan
(danc@u.washington.edu)
From: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer) 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: rec.pets.dogs
Date: 2 Sep 92 07:09:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525
Reply-To: kathleen.brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us (Kathleen Brewer) 

TO: gbelli@opal.tufts.edu

GB>So what do you think, are beagles untrainable?  I'm not talking about traini
GB>for shows, just basic obedience.  I know that they are most certainly not
GB>stupid, but they are a)nosey, which makes it hard to keep their attention, a
GB>b)stubborn, the downside of which is obvious.  In the past, obedience hasn't
GB>seemed too important to me, but circumstances have made it imperative that
GB>my dog obey me (for his own safety, and for good neighbor relations).
GB>Heeling is the most important idea that I would like to teach him.  I've
GB>had some success w/a choke collar, but the lessons don't seem to stick in
GB>his head from walk to walk.  Teaching him to drop things that he has picked
GB>up in his mouth is something I would like to do, also, but again, I can't
GB>get him to consistantly obey me.  If you have any ideas, please let me
GB>know.  Nothing too "cruel" (ie. frightening to him, aggressive), I'm
GB>a softie.

Enroll in a basic obedience class, this will teach you and your dog all
the things you have mentioned, and more! Beagles are trainable, I have a
friend who raises them and trains them for OB compition. Her Peppermint
Patty has a UD and is working on an OTCH. UD is Utility Dog, and OTCH is
Obedince Trail Champion. Neither of these is easy to attain regarless of
the type of dog you have, with a beagle it is a challenge but it can
be done!
Kathleen.Brewer@cutting.hou.tx.us
---
 . OLX 2.1 . Silly wabbit, QWKs are for kids.
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Labrador Rescue League
Date: 26 Aug 92 17:07:02 GMT
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <BtJxDr.IvD@ora.com> kramer@ora.com (Eileen Kramer) writes:
>I'm looking for a contact at the Labrador Rescue
>League in New England.
>
>Ruth Terry (ruth@ora.com)
Here are two Lab Rescue groups: 
Labrador Retriever Club of Central Connecticut
Julie Starkweather  203/426-0770

Labrador Retriever Club of Greater Boston
Jill Silverman  508/369-8736

********************
Marget Johnson

-- 

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: bonni@gath.cray.com (Bonni Ensminger)
Subject: Re: IAMS dog food
Originator: operator@gath
Reply-To: bonni@gath.cray.com (Bonni Ensminger)
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 4 Sep 92 06:45:53 CDT


In article <180888INNmek@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, esh2@po.CWRU.Edu (Evelyn S. Hlabse) writes:
|> 
|> My vet recommended changing my dog's diet because he is
|> a little overweight.  I started him on Science diet and
|> he didn't much care for it.  I changed  it according to
|> my vet's instructions.  I have changed dog food again -
|> this time to IAMS.  He likes this brand but he now has
|> lose stools.  I had been adding people food (very little)
|> to both brands but cut it out entirely when the lose
|> stools started but it makes no difference.  This has
|> been going on for about a month with the IAMS.  Does 
|> anyone have any suggestions and in particular to the
|> following;
|> 
|> 1)  Is it the IAMS food?
|> 
|> 2)  What brand of dog food would be better?  I've
|>     tried Bil Jack and he doesn't like it at all.
|> 
|> 3)  Would adding rice or a vegetable to the food
|>     help?
|> 
|> E-mail or post replies.  Thank you.  I've found
|> this group very helpful in the past.
|> 
|> Evelyn (owned by Digory)
|> 
|> -- 
|> 
I had the problem with extremely loose stools when using MAX Senior.  I
switched to IAMS, and the problem cleared up.  I guess it really just 
depends on your dog.  Sorry I couldn't be of more help!

Bonni
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: cmoussav@ssf-sys.DHL.COM (Carla Moussavi)
Subject: Regarding My New Puppy and Some Nasty Articles
Organization: DHL Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1992 16:30:09 GMT


Hi,
  For anyone who has "flamed" me for owning my puppy, I'm not about to
apologize for owning my puppy! I am certainly not going to get rid of
her! I get up extra early to play with her, my husband goes home everyday
at lunch to see her, and she has LOTS of attention and exercise when we 
get home at night!  Your remarks are useless, mean-spirited and irrational.
  Before getting my puppy I talked with many people, including her  
veterinarian as to whether or not it was a problem regarding us both working.
I was assured that we could raise a happy, well-adjusted dog even though
we work, and our puppy IS happy and well-adjusted. 
  If you have any useful info, then let me know about it, otherwise, don't
even bother to write any more of your ridiculous letters - I won't read
them, I'll simply pass right on to the next article after recognizing the
first mean comment.
  For those of you who have written useful, constructive comments, I 
thank you very much.
                           Carla Moussavi
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs