HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Discounted '82 Rabbit S
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:04:52 GMT
Organization: Software Engineering Institute


   For Sale:    1982 Volkswagen Rabbit S (modified)
		(This is the Rabbit-Sport which was released the year before 
		 the first Rabbit GTi)- it is actually a very rare Rabbit
		Will outperform any stock Rabbit GTi
		Car is black with tan interior		

		It includes:
				
			1.7L fuel injected engine w/ 93,000 miles - runs great!
			Leistritz (german high performance) exhaust system
			Bilstein sport suspension kit (BTS-172,paid $525,lowers
               		   car 1.5 inches - incredible handling) 
			Neuspeed upper and lower front strut tie (stress) bars
			   (these reinforce the front strut towers for better
			    handling and steering response)
			4 wheel disc brakes w/ vented front rotors (from '84 
			   and'87 GTi - incredible stopping)
			GTi anti-sway bars
			Air conditioning - works very well
			GTi gauge package- Tachometer,Oil press,Clock,Voltmeter
			Factory Sunroof  
			BMW 14" alloys (3-series) with 185/60 Yokahoma A509
			   high performance directional tires
			European-spec bumpers - huge aesthetic improvement
			Factory GTi front spoiler
			Factory GTi fender flares
			Nearly perfect body, no rust
			Only $1850 obo

		Please respond via e-mail to cdg@sei.cmu.edu
		or call 412-486-9056 after 6 p.m. 

		---------------------------------------------------------
		Craig Dain Gary
		Software Engineering Institute/Carnegie Mellon University
		Pittsburgh, PA
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: bus CV problems
Date: 30 Sep 1992 12:57:56 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hey now, all!
I always seem to get stung when I'm only trying to do the right thing...

I had my rear wheels torn apart to rebuild the brakes, so I figured I 
should repack the CVs and wheel bearings while I was at it.  Good of me,
no?  So I pulled off the axle, took apart the CVs to clean them, being
very careful not to mix the parts of one with the other, put them back
together with instructions from St. John Muir and Haynes, greased them
up, and whamo! they're all screwed up.  They no longer move in the
directions they're supposed to- i.e. they don't want to "joint".  Like
absolutely NO movement in the plane that's perpendicular to the axle.
So consequently, they won't go back to where they belong.  Now, I've
taken them back apart and tried to figure out what went wrong and I'm
at a loss.  My next step is to take the other side out and compare, but
you can imagine that now I'm a little gun-shy about doing it!

Any net.wisdom will be GR
(oops)
GRATEFULLY appreciated.  I wanna try out my brand-spanking-new brakes!

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: rose@duncan.cs.utk.edu (John Rose)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: stuck pistons
Followup-To: rose@cs.utk.edu
Date: 29 Sep 92 13:25:50 GMT
Organization: University of Tennessee, Knoxville - Department of Computer Science
Distribution: world
Reply-To: rose@duncan.cs.utk.edu (John Rose)
NNTP-Posting-Host: duncan.cs.utk.edu
Keywords: car sitting a long time


i have a beetle with 1973 i guess its a 1600cc engine. not sure. 
it has been sitting a couple years without being started. tried to crank it up
and engine is frozen(stuck) it seems. it was running when i parked it. 
any chance of getting this baby running? anything i can pour in cylinder?
any constructive advice is welcome. 

thanks
john



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: bus CV problems
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:56:11 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1ac88kINNjlc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
> up, and whamo! they're all screwed up.  They no longer move in the
> directions they're supposed to- i.e. they don't want to "joint".  Like
> absolutely NO movement in the plane that's perpendicular to the axle.
> So consequently, they won't go back to where they belong.  Now, I've
> taken them back apart and tried to figure out what went wrong and I'm
> at a loss.  My next step is to take the other side out and compare, but
> you can imagine that now I'm a little gun-shy about doing it!
> 
> Any net.wisdom will be GR
> (oops)
> GRATEFULLY appreciated.  I wanna try out my brand-spanking-new brakes!
> 
> Bill
> -- 
> William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
> Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
> MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595

You've got the CV joints backwards on the shaft.  Take a joint off, turn it
around and put it back on the shaft, then do the same with the other one.  Then
pick the assembly up and try to simulate the way the it bends when it is hooked
up.  Could be you just have one of them backwards.

Don't feel bad, I did the same thing.




=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Date: 29 Sep 92 18:25:52 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:

> In article <1992Sep25.051925.12909@microplex.com> fff@microplex.com (Fred Fie
> >
> >
> >Have you noticed that switching to defrost causes the air conditioner
> >compressor to kick in?  I suspect it cools (and dehumidifies) the air
> >then heats it up before it gets to the windshield.  Anyone know for sure?
> >-- 
> >Fred Fierling    fff@microplex.com      Tel: 604 875-1461   Fax: 604 875-902
> >Microplex Systems Ltd   265 East 1st Avenue   Vancouver, BC  V5T 1A7,  Canad
> 
> Most vw stock ACs do that. Does exactly what you say. Works pretty 
> good too.
> 

I find it annoying, I have installed a manual switch on mine, I hate the 
power loss.  Heated air has almost 0 humidity in it anyway.  I know WHY VW 
did it tho.  Most cars do this, because in the winter your A/C 
compressor/guts dont get used.  Thus over the winter, many older A/C units 
went bad, or had problems due to lack of use.  The compressor would sit all 
winter long, with no oil/use.  Come the first say of summer, folks would find 
that thier A/C had gotten water in the system, lost oil or lost a charge due 
to lack of use.  Thus they (car makers) have hooked it up to your defroster, 
that you use in the winter.  Its not so much to help the defroster, but to 
keep your A/C working.

----- 
 Dan Reed (Blu-Max) blu@cellar.org - AutoCad Geek - VW Lover - InlineSkater 
68 Cougar XR-7, 89 VW Golf, 72 Honda CL360Twin, Ti/99/4a, Vextrex, Timex
From: gds@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (glenn.d.strouse)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: AUDI 4000 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:41:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsi.1992Sep30.184139.14787
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T



I am having a strange electrical problem with my 82' Audi 4000. There seems 
to be a short between the turn signals and the intermittent wiper position.
These are on two completely different stalks. My problem is when I sometimes
turn on the turn signal, the wipers will come on. And the bigger problem is
when the intermittent wiper does not work, neither will the turn signal. 
  
  I am not familiar  with the electrical  system on this car. So any advice 
would be appreciated.

glenn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: meyer@helix.nih.gov (Meyer Gordon)
Subject: Ghia stalls
Organization: National Institutes of Health, Bethesda
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 15:15:40 GMT

My '72 Karmann Ghia was just tuned up and runs great, except for one
problem.  On cold mornings, it stalls when I come to a stop after driving
about a mile.  I usually let it idle for about 30 seconds before starting
out.  After stalling that one time, it never stalls again that day.  Would
this be a choke problem?  Should I up the idle speed?  Any suggestions will
be appreciated.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: brad@island.COM (Bradley Mabe)
Subject: Beetle or Super Beetle?
Organization: Island Graphics Corp.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 00:37:27 GMT

I have been shopping around for an older vw, and have found a Super Beetle
that seems to be in pretty good shape.  A friend of mine has warned me
to stay away from the Super Beetles, stating that they were only made 
for a few years and parts are harder to find since they are not compatible
regular Beetles.  As far as I can tell the only difference between
the Super Beetle and the Beetle is the front suspension, windshield, and 
some of the interior. Is there any reason to stay away from purchasing
a Super Beetle?

Bradley Mabe. 
Island Graphics Corp. (415) 491-1000               
brad@island.com
Disclaimer: It's not Island's fault.
From: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu ()
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Rabbit GTI Clutches
Date: 30 Sep 1992 07:22:05 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu


I lost the clutch on my 85 Jetta at 30k while backing into a very steep
parking space. The clutch juddered from day 0, and I think that the fly-
wheel was the problem all along. The dealer surfaced the wheel and it is
fine at 60k despite my best efforts. A room mate has 140k of fast mountain
driving on an 86 GLI; it has always shuddered too, but not as bad as mine.

-Ted Crum
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ricky@benchmaster.esd.sgi.com (Ricky Cheng)
Subject: Valve knocks
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 19:45:16 GMT

My 87 8V GLI has 105k miles on it
when I accelarate, I hear some valve knocks (pinging, pinking..)
Any fix besides rebuild the engine ?
Will it help if replacing the camshaft?

Ricky

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: CV joint bolts?
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 19:18:00 GMT

In article <1992Oct03.000600.4439@microsoft.com> laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday) writes:
>
>Before I reach for high explosives, any suggestions on removing the
>CV joint bolts from my '72 Fastback's rear end?
>
>I've got the right tool (they're the old 12-point pseudo-Torx bolts), I've
>cleaned them off very carefully, and half of them (mainly at the wheel
>end) have *still* stripped out. Some were stripped before I even got to them.
>
Recycled bugs recommends inserting the tool and tapping it with a
hammer a dozen times to loosen. Then start by tightening a bit before
loosening.

Once they are stripped you resort to dynamite in the form of sharpened
vise grips.  Get good strong vise grips and make sure that their teeth
are quite sharp.  Clamp them around the bolt heads enough to bite into
the heads.  Turn slowly, if it starts slipping, tighten more or
sharpen more with a file.

-andy


From: rchong@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Raymond Chong)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1992 23:59:00 GMT
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw

I'm not much of a driving enthusiast, so I'll try to keep my
vocabulary simple.

I got to drive two Corrado V6s from the same lot.  Both of them felt
different.  First of all, both had one of the sweetest engines I've heard
on a car in the $20K price range, but they both handled very differently.
One felt very sure-footed while the other was, well, a little spongy...
kind of like my old Honda Accord (the salesperson agreed with me, so I 
must not have been imagining it.)  
Anyone else ever notice such a problem?  Or could it have been just 
an isolated case?  Anyway, that made me a little wary of VWs consistency
in workmanship from one car to the other. (My other car happens to be a
VW, so please, no flames from VW fans!)

Also, the car didn't have an airbag, not even as an option.

Overall, I thought it was an excellent car, but these little things
made me end up buying some other German car... 

Just my simple-mided opinion...
From: gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Red Line Oil Question
Date: 29 Sep 92 12:13:27 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada

I ordered some transmission fluid for my GTI. I got 75W90 GL-4 because
I got the impression that is what we are supposed to have. With the oils
I got a few brochures. I am particullary puzzled on the the transmission
oil stuff. One panthlet is:

MTL-Manual Transmission/Manual Transaxle Lubricant.

	and the other is

Synthetic Gear Oils


Now my question is what is the difference? All the panthlets say is 
how good they are and give good lubrication and bar graphs comparing it to
other iols, but they never say the difference. I belive that the "Synthetic
Gear Oils" panthlet mentions the MT 90 Transmission Lubricant and other
oils, so I came to the conclusion that the lubricant is a type of transmission
oil and that the "MTL - Man......." panthlet is a detailed description of
the MTL oil only. Am I correct?

I will let the net know how I fing the oil once I put it in.

ANdy
-- 
---....-------------****----*******-) GTI FUN-atic                      o  
--. \/ .-----GTI---******--*********)         Don't forget to bike:     ,-\
--.\/\/.-----------******--*********)  (and sail and windsurf and ski)  0\-0
---....-------------****----*******-) gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca,goaway@ac.dal.ca
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Thursday, 1 Oct 1992 08:36:16 EST
From: <HAHN@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Tires - 15" Wheels take 60 series?

I have a '91 GTI 16V.  The tires on it are 195/50 R15's.  I've looked
around and the 50 series are >$100 each.  The 195/60's aren't so
bad.  Will these fit on my GTI, or will the tire start rubbing
the wheel wells?

Are there any other considerations?

Thanx!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:37:28 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.164051.18830@u.washington.edu>, jswthomp@milton.u.washington.edu (James Thompson) writes:
|> In article <1992Sep25.095038.2576@mdcbbs.com> jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande) writes:
|> >In article <1992Sep25.051925.12909@microplex.com> fff@microplex.com (Fred Fierling) writes:
|> >>
|> >>
|> >>Have you noticed that switching to defrost causes the air conditioner
|> >>compressor to kick in?  I suspect it cools (and dehumidifies) the air
|> >>then heats it up before it gets to the windshield.  Anyone know for sure?
|> >>-- 
|> >>Fred Fierling    fff@microplex.com      Tel: 604 875-1461   Fax: 604 875-9029
|> >>Microplex Systems Ltd   265 East 1st Avenue   Vancouver, BC  V5T 1A7,  Canada
|> >
|> >Most vw stock ACs do that. Does exactly what you say. Works pretty 
|> >good too.
|> 
|> 
|> My Pontiac Fiero did this too.  According to Pontiac, the compressor is turned
|> on to put additional load on the engine so that it will warm up quicker, and
|> the defroster will become effective sooner.  Worked pretty good.
|> 
|> Jim (jswthomp@u.washington.edu)

This technique has been used for quite some time.  Chrysler, I believe started it first.
The basic idea is to cool the air causing the moisture in it to condense out in the
A/C evaporater.  This cooled, low moisture air is then heated by the regular heater
core.   This cool-heat sequence dehumidifies the air causing a quicker defrost process.
In fact, in cases where the air is really humid (i.e. during a rain storm) this is
about the only way you can get effective defrosting.   I think Pontiac may be
putting one over on you about causing the engine to heat up faster. 

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
Subject: Re: Transmission Problems w/'90 Passat
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 2 Oct 92 06:39:48 CDT

In article <168737E27.JWEST@r3vm.dsd.trw.com> JWEST@r3vm.dsd.trw.com (Judson West) writes:
>Anyone else been experiencing transmission problems with '90 Passat?

   The Passat transmission (auto) is funky at best. During around town driving
I have found that by keeping it in the 3 position it prevents the lock-up conv.
from kicking in. The fact that your Trans. ECU  has been changed 4 times is not
unusual. There have been several attempts to make this transmission more 
palatable for drivers. Proper operation in the 3 position under heavy 
acceleration in sport mode is to shift at the 6500 rpm range, in normal mode
it shifts when most economical, which is about in the 35-4500 range. The problem
starts when you add the lockup/4th gear in the 096 trans. It has a programmed
wait period, at that time it is waiting for further throttle input. This period
of time which seems like 30 seconds is actually .7-2.5 secs. The only known
problem, that is a problem in VWs mind, is the ATF filter MUST be removed. It 
has been found that this causes lower than desired operating pressures over time
and can cause delayed shift points. 

>I have had the transmission computer replaced no less than 3 times
>over the past 9 months. The situation that causes me to do this is
>when the transmission refuses to shift gears or shifts at high revs.
>If I turn the motor off, and then back on again the problem goes
>away.

Robert


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: progers@napier.uwaterloo.ca (Patrick Rogers)
Subject: Re: hydraulic lifters in 1835 cc air-cooled
Keywords: air cooled VWs   lifters
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:13:58 GMT

In article <1992Sep26.222641.13861@athena.mit.edu> kdrolt@athena.mit.edu (Kenneth D Rolt) writes:
>devices so I would expect they would work in a bug motor if there
>was enough space for them (i.e. the OD and length were compatible).

  It seems that all of the major manufcturers have a different rap on hydraulic
lifters.  I've seen several companies that offered hydraulic lifters, but all
required machining of the case in an already thin area - particularly in a high
HP engine.  Gene Berg warns against this in his catalog (highly recomended)
and I believe says that he is working on a special design of hydraulic lifters
that do not require machining the case.  I read this about a year ago, so I'm
not sure if he's released it or not, but it does seem safer than boring out
your case.

                                -Pat

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: marvin@netcom.com (Marvin Carlberg)
Subject: Re: water cooled vw service (L.A area)
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 04:38:06 GMT

dgjst1+@pitt.edu (Douglas G Jahn) writes:
> I am just about to move to Huntington Beach and I need to start looking 
> for a good mechanic for an 84 GTi.  Does anyone have any recomendations
> for mechanics located in the Orange County area?  Any help will be
> greatly appreciated.  
> 					Thanks in advance,
> 	
> 						Doug
> 
 
Hans Imports, on Talbert Avenue (Huntington Beach)
714-536-4000
 
My family has had them take care of our 72 Pop Top and 77 Rabbit for 15 years,
and I have trusted them with my 57 bug(s) with no complaints whatsoever.
They used to be VW's only but in the last few years have expanded to servicing
Japanese cars too, but most of the old VW specialists are still there.
 
Hope this helps,
 -Marvin Carlberg
  marvin@netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: ** INFO ON VW CORRADO V6 **
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 26 Sep 92 15:50:39 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <Bv50By.Gw2@cleo.abt.com> todd@cleo.abt.com (Todd Nix) writes:
>In <19trbtINNj7v@hal.com> monsef@hal.com (Eric Monsef) writes:
>>How much heavier is the VR6 than the 16V'er?
>
>The G60 has an 8-valve engine.
>
>Todd Nix cleo!todd@uudell.dell.com

I thought 100 kgs, but that includes a larger tank.

Note also Eric wasn't too misguided:
Corrado 16V: European non-cat market, 1.8l 16V 4cyls
Corrado G60: Super charged intercooled 1.8 l 8V engine, Europe & US & ???
Corrado SLC: 2.8l 12V V6, Eu, US, ???
-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jag@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (j.goldberg)
Subject: Re: TIRES: Kelley-Springfields
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 19:57:10 GMT

In article <RRUSK.92Oct2094021@rcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com> rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com writes:
>On Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:23:13 GMT, jag@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (j.goldberg) wrote:
>
>>I have been using Kleber C50's on my '86 Jetta GLI for the past 65K
>>miles or more, and I have to say I'm REALLY REALLY happy with them.
>
>Is this model Kleber still available and unchanged?  The tire place I
>frequented in Provo, UT told me about three years ago that they were no
>longer recommending their Kleber line because Klebers, formerly made by
>Michelin in Europe, were now being made in Ohio by a US tire company,
>and that both handling and durability had diminished while prices had
>gone up.  I was sorely disappointed, having had great service from a set 
>I put on my wife's car.
>

Bob:

Thanks for pointing this out!  I called EuroTire, and he said Kleber is
a French subsidiary of Michelin, and it's entirely possible that they're
manufacturing the C50's in the US.  However, a few years ago, the 50's
were introduced, and have not changed.  So if they are being made in the
US, then they're the ones I have on my car right now, and they're really
great.  BTW, EuroTire has an 800 number: 800.631.0080; I had posted
their local north Jersey number before.

I really can't complain about handling, and as for durability, I replaced
the fronts (after they got chewed up from a bad Sears alignment), and the
backs are barely worn after some 65K miles or so.  And they were fairly
inexpensive (way cheaper then the Michelin X-GTV's I hated).

Hope this info is useful for somebody!

	jay

JAy Goldberg
UNIX System Laboratories
jay@usl.com
From: jimk@bvc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: VW Salvage yards? (need 90-91 Jetta wheel centercaps)
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:38:39 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Buena Vista College, Storm Lake, IA

In article <1992Oct2.145009.15842@osf.org>, scholz@osf.org (Carl Scholz) writes:
> Can anyone recommend some VW specializing salvage yards?  I know of some local junk yards that carry VW stuff, but I'm really looking for a place willing to ship things that deals in lots of late model VW parts.  I know of similar places that deal in ot
> 
> Specifically, I'm looking for the small flush centercaps that appear on 90-91 Jetta GL's (the wheels they fit on are the *14x6 steel* ones).  The center caps are about 6-8 inches in diamater, have a thin black stripe at the edge and are almost all plain
> 
> Carl
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> Carl S. Scholz                           Open Software Foundation
> scholz@osf.org OR uunet!osf.org!scholz   Cambridge, MA   (617) 621-8996
> "Them that takes cakes which the Parsee-man bakes makes dreadful mistakes." -RK
>  [Disclaimer: just me yapping, not my employer] 

	Call Sammy Caffizo at Little Car Care in Lawrence. He specializes 
only in VW's and kept my Scirrocco's far and beyond the call when I lived 
in Andover.  Please give him my regards.

Jim Kennedy
Library Director
Buena Vista College
Storm Lake, Iowa 50588