HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tribioli@arcetri.astro.it (Francesco Tribioli)
Subject: Re: Snow diaramas: Armored vehicles
Organization: Osservatorio di Arcetri
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 07:49:31 GMT

In article <l6rdhtINN7bj@nunki.usc.edu>, grenier@nunki.usc.edu (Adrian Grenier) writes:
|> I am in the process of building a diarama of a Panzer MkV in an Ardennes
|> Offensive setting and would like to know if anyone has ideas on how to
|> make realistic looking snow and any other ideas on making a good looking
|> snow/woodland setting. I am kinda new to the vehicle diarama scene, so all
|> suggestions would help.
|> 
|> Also if anyone has info on where I can get detailed machin guns (MG34 and 
|> MG40 I think) I would appreciate it. The Verlinden catalog has only 
|> American mg's.
|> 		Thanks in advance,
|> 				AD


Well, I had similar problems with diorama of 54mm soldiers. However I think
you should prepare a base of gypsum mixed to vinyl glue to simulate the
terrain reliefs. Before gypsum dries you should strew mould (eventually mixed
with sand) on your diorama. Mould should be glued to gypsum base. When all this
is dried you can pass to glue some saplings. After that you can pass to snow.
This can be done with bicarbonate or flour (I prefer bicarbonate because it
has a translucent aspect more similar to snow). You can glue it to the base
using a brush and vinyl glue mixed with water: you can wet the mould with the
brush, strew the bicarbonate and gently press it with a finger to smooth the
surface. Bye
						Francesco
From: natola@coos.dartmouth.edu (Mark A. Natola)
Newsgroups: alt.models
Subject: Re: Airbrush Compressors
Date: 27 Jul 92 20:53:28 GMT
Organization: D.M.S. Section of Neurology

In article <25JUL199210444406@rosie.uh.edu> st1ec@rosie.uh.edu (Tse, Oliver) writes:
>From: st1ec@rosie.uh.edu (Tse, Oliver)
>Subject: Airbrush Compressors
>Date: 25 Jul 92 15:44:00 GMT

>After purchasing well over 50(this is a rough estimate) cans of "Propel," I
>have decided to purchase a compressor.  I was looking for an inexpensive one
>dedicated to airbrushing within the price range of $80 to $130.  At the moment,
>I own a Badger 350-1M(a single action, external mix job).  I need recommenda-
>tions on different compressors such as the ones made by Badger, W.R. Brown,
>and the like on how well they perform, their ease of maintenance, and so forth.
>Your help is greatly appreciated in this matter.  Thanks for your response.

>Oliver
>st1ec@rosie.uh.edu 

I bought a Campbell Housfeld 3/4 hp compressor with a 10 gallon tank for $
150.00 at a local discount hardware store.  It comes with a regulator, but 
to really get it right, you should buy one that will regulate accurately at 
lower pressure levels.  I also got an in-line water seperator, but have 
NEVER seen a drop of water in it.  So, for about $170.00, you can get a good 
compressor and paint in peace!

Mark
From: tooka@train.EBay.Sun.COM ()
Newsgroups: alt.models
Subject: Re: Imperial Japanese Navy Color Scheme
Date: 23 Jul 1992 23:36:27 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: tooka@train.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: train.ebay.sun.com

Hi,

Which reference books are you referring to? I have built several IJN (Japanese Navy)
warships (in the 1/700 scale waterline series from Tamiya/Fujimi/Hasegawa/Aoshima)
and the hull and superstructure colors seem to be a very standard color used
by the IJN since the Russo-Japanese war--IJN grey (Both Tamiya and Gunze-Sangyo
make a sample of this paint) I would describe IJN grey as a very dark grey with a
slightly blue hue. Could this be what you are referring to?

Researching Japanese warship colors as least for modellers seems pretty straight
forward compared to researching say the WWII British Royal Navy warship
paint schemes--which varied wildly from the Pacific to Atlantic theaters. The
IJN seemed to stick predictably to that shade of grey until later in the war
when it shifted to an olive green for its capital ships--carriers and battleships.

Which structures above the waterline are you referring to? searchlights? cranes?
That may indeed require a different grey from the IJN Grey I referred to in
my first paragraph? Excuse my rambling (too much coffee for me!) but this was
a favorite subject of mine once--IJN history, that is.

Could any warship buffs enlighten us out there? Maybe I oversimplified the color
scheme you might be looking for? 

Good Luck

Tony
From: thorn@phoenix.radonc.unc.edu (Jesse Thorn)
Newsgroups: alt.models
Subject: Re: information on AZIMUT models?
Date: 21 Jul 92 21:09:08 GMT
Organization: Radiation Oncology, NCMH/UNC, Chapel Hill, NC

In article <1992Jul21.165446.24475@encore.com> bburden@encore.com (Bruce Burden) writes:
>
>	Would people who have worked with AZIMUT kits share their
>   opinions about the accuracy, detail, fit, etc? 


These resin/metal conversion kits are produced in France. In my
opinion they are some of the best quality kits made. They equal and
surpass the best of Verlinden.

I have built an SdKfz 140 using the Testor's Marder II and the
ADV/Azimut conversion kit. The kit consist of a resin superstructure
and turret. The resin parts were crisply molded and had very few
bubble marks. The superstructure fit nicely to the vehicle chassis and
required no filler putty. The turret was slightly warped but this was
easily corrected by placing it in hot water and then gently bending it
to the correct shape. The white metal parts include seats, 20mm Flak
gun and mount, and 7.92mm mg. A sheet of photo-etched brass provides
parts for the grenade protection screens over the turret, gun mount
details, and gun sight. All in all, a very nice addition to any WWII
German AFV collection.

I also have (about half completed) one of their older all-resin kits.
A WWII Soviet T-60 light tank. I got this at an IPMS show at a greatly
reduced price because the kit had warped badly. I did manage to
correct the the warpage with the hot water/gently bend method. Again,
the parts were crisply molded (with a few exceptions) and there were
few bubble marks. The worst part of the kit are the resin tracks -
YUCHHH - too much clean up because of mold shift. I am replacing them
with vinyl tracks from an old Italeri Panzer I - a close enough match.

I have waiting in the wings their conversion kit for the SdKfz 250/8 -
the late model version mounting the 75 mm howitzer. Again this looks
to be an excellent kit. They also make a driver figure for this kit
which I also have.

Again I would say these kits are some of the best made and can be
purchased at reasonable prices either at IPMS shows or thru mail-order.

>	Also, is the AZIMUT Pz 42 Maultier the same subject as the
>   Italeri Opel Maultier? 
>

No. The Italeri kit is the unarmoured cargo carrier. The Azimut
kit is the armoured rocket launcher. It is a complete kit and if I
had an extra $75 I would buy this puppy!


--Happy Glue Sniffing
--Jesse
Newsgroups: alt.models
From: tsai@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Finnegan T. Tsai)
Subject: Fujimi 1/24 Eenthusiasm Series Car Kits
Originator: tsai@Xenon.Stanford.EDU
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 19:30:34 GMT


Just heard of some rumor that the new Fujimi
American distributor MRC will temporarily halt
importing the 1/24 Eenthusiasm series car kits
hence they can raise the prices later. 
Is this true?

I planned to collect some EM series cars. Could
anybody tell me where I can find a good mail
order firm who carries the complete Fujimi line
and can give very good prices?



Thanx.



-finny



Newsgroups: alt.models
From: rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray)
Subject: Re: filling in gaps
Organization: US WEST Communications, Inc. -- Denver, CO
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 18:34:32 GMT

My technique varies on the size of the area I am filling:

Large areas, I use a two-part putty (I personally use Verlinden Putty, but a
rose is a rose is a rose...). I handle and shape it wet. I find that it really
is NOT that easy to sand and shape once dried, so I am very careful about
getting it right before letting it dry.

Smaller areas, I use either Dr. Microtools red putty, 3M blue, Squadron green,
or Squadron white, whichever is handiest. They have different drying times and
degrees of shrinkage, which is why I don't just pick one. Red putty dries
fastest and shrinks the most. I'm not sure which takes longer to dry-- blue or
green, but they both are close in the shrinkage department. White is kind of
in-between. I also have been known to thin down green putty with Testor's
liquid cement. It bonds to the plastic better, but shrinks more.

Randy
-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Randy J. Ray -- U S WEST IT/CSD         rray@{lookout,uswat}.it.uswc.uswest.com
I'd rather talk religion with Charles Manson than discuss ethics with Congress.
     -me                                                   Phone: (303)595-2852
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Organization: Penn $tate Univer$ity
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 08:50:36 EDT
From: Brian Panulla, MooCow <BJP108@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.models
Subject: Re: RFD: rec.models.scale
 <1992Jul29.182156.7928@advtech.uswest.com> <13683@gazette.bcm.tmc.edu>

In article <13683@gazette.bcm.tmc.edu>, rick@crick.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu (Richard H.
Miller) says:
>
>
>No reason for flames.....I think creating the misc group is overdue. What I
>would suggest is to create misc and then if the scale model overwhelms the
>discussion break it off and form scale.
>

Isn't this kind of silly? If alt.models has been funtioning for so long, I
don't think this renaming will greatly affect it's readership. Scale modelling
overwealms the traffic NOW. If we want to transplant the group, rm.scale, IMHO
would be the better shoice (then .misc).  It's a lot more descriptive than
.misc. It will also get rid of the occasional "Elle MacPherson" posts!!!!!!

"Umm. Hey, I don't know if this is the right group for this, but what SCALE
is Paulina ???"      This will NEVER happen :)~

>
>
>
>
>--
>Richard H. Miller                 Email: rick@bcm.tmc.edu
>Asst. Dir. for Technical Support  Voice: (713)798-3532
>Baylor College of Medicine        US Mail: One Baylor Plaza, 302H
>                                           Houston, Texas 77030
______
Brian Panulla                                              Hail Sinfonia!
bjp108 @ psuvm.psu.edu / ender @ vivaldi.psu.edu / panulla @ math.psu.edu
(The opinions expressed above are mine alone, and do not reflect those of)
(Penn State University, or the Center for Academic Computing, so there!  )
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: alt.models
Subject: Re: Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis models wanted
Date: 30 Jul 92 21:21:31 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Distribution: na
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Jul30.124430.3351@bwdls61.bnr.ca> zenith89@bwdlh130.bnr.ca () writes:
>Does anybody know if any company sells any models of the Ford
>Crown Victoria or Mercury Grand Marquis? Please reply here, email
>won't make it. Thanks,...CPV

What year for each?  There's '32 and '56 Ford Vickies, at least the U.S.
versions.  I doubt the Mercury is available, but you never know about the
resin-casters...

I'll try to post some of the (1/24-1/25th) resin casters addresses here, as
well as JoHan in Michigan - which is resurrecting some of its older model
toolings...



Newsgroups: alt.models
From: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Subject: New Tamiya 1/12th F1
Reply-To: burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com ()
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 12:50:56 GMT


I've heard a rumor that Tamiya will be issuing a new 1/12th scale F1 model
next year:

Williams-Renault FW14

I have not called Tamiya or anyone to confirm or deny this rumor yet...

--
Dave Burden                                      ______--------___
Digital Equip Corp - Alpharetta, GA             /|             / |
                                     o___________|_\__________/__|
burden_d@oass.enet.dec.com          ]|___     |   |=  ||  =|___  |"
                                    //   \\   |   |___||_///   \\|"
                                    |  X  |\-------------/|  X  |\"
                                     \___/ 1924 Studebaker \___/
					Special 6 Touring Car
From: tsai@hal.com (Finnegan T. Tsai)
Newsgroups: alt.models
Subject: Re: Tamiya King Tiger
Keywords: kit
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:06:44 GMT
Organization: HaL Computer Systems
NNTP-Posting-Host: molly.hal.com

In article <1992Jul21.175523.2895@cbnewsd.cb.att.com>, hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo) writes:
|> 
|> Is the Tamiya 1/16 scale King Tiger kit still in production?
|> 
|> 

The answer is definitively a YES. Actually one of my friends in Far East just bought one for
about US$400!! Based on the 1992 Tamiya catalog, the King Tiger is still under the production.
Most local dealers don't stock it, soI think you have to wait until the new Tamiya American
distributor sets up, then order it directly from them. 


-finny
Newsgroups: alt.models
From: urf@icl.se (Urban F)
Subject: Re: filling in gaps
Reply-To: urf@icl.se
Organization: None: On USENET I speak only for myself.
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 07:05:35 GMT

One good putty is Milliput, which is a two-part expoxy
putty. It dries rather hard, is available in three different
"fine-nesses", and after mixing the two components, it can
be softened with water. This is what I use when I have a big
gap to fill, or when I have to "sculpt" something.

For smaller gaps, I use a polyurethane putty, as it is more
convenient. Not as strong, but that means it sands easily,
which is what you want if you fill in a wing root, and don't 
want to destroy adjacent detail, for example.

Some special jobs have required a mixing of styrene dust and
liquid cement. This is good when you need a very strong bond.

Nowadays, I tend to stay away from stuff like Squadron's Green
Putty, as it tends to sink when it dries, and in the long term
it's sometimes gotten unstuck from the plastic (OK, maybe was 
too dry to begin with.) I've heard _rumours_ that it also affects
paints in the very long run.

It is also possible to use Tipp-Ex for some small jobs, but I 
find it hard to sand well.
-- 
 Urban Fredriksson  ( N.G.U.Fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk )
 / <- this is an ASCII map of Sweden
Newsgroups: alt.models,rec.models.railroad,rec.models.rc,rec.models.rockets,news.groups
From: piz@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (G G ZIPFEL)
Subject: Re: RFD: rec.models.scale
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 21:02:52 GMT

(Randy J. Ray) writes:
>(Richard H. Miller) writes:
>> Actually, since most models are by definition 'scale', I would proposed instead
>> to filll the hole in the rec.models hierarchy and go ahead and propose 
>> 
>> 	rec.models.misc 
>> 
>> This is the one group missing [since rec.models is not a group] and will 
>> provide a place for threads which do not relate to the specific groups which 
>> now exist. I think this is the only hierarchy in which specific groups exist
>> without a place for misc. threads.
>> 
>ACtually, it was originally proposed (back in '89 or so) as rec.models.misc.
>Without degenerating into a flame war, can we discuss this point? This is one
>of the things I want to iron out during the discussion period, before the 
>voting takes place...

	Perhaps 

	rec.models.kit 

	Would be a better description of what goes on in this alt group?
>
>Me, I'll just be happy when we have our rec group, whether it's .scale or
>.misc. I'll still post kit reviews, I'll still try to answer new modelers'
>questions as well as I can... I just want us to go beyond the alt realm...
>
>Randy J. Ray -- U S WEST IT/CSD         rray@{lookout,uswat}.it.uswc.uswest.com


-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          Zip                  |   Owner/GM West Chicago Zippers,           
Steelers in 92, Bubby's Back!  |   Obviously the funniest team in the IBL.   
"Anything that travels that far oughta have a damn stewardess on it"
From: howard@locus.com (Howard Moskovitz)
Newsgroups: alt.models
Subject: Re: stock paint colors
Date: 23 Jul 92 22:25:39 GMT
Reply-To: howard@locus.com (Howard Moskovitz)
Organization: Locus Computing


 	does anyone know where i can obtain mixing formulas for original color paints 
	for GM car models from the 50's,and 60's?

You could go to an auto apint supply shop. They have a color computer similar
to those in hardware or home paint stores that have a database of color
mixing formulas and can mix up any stock color from any car. The only problem is that
some of them won't sell you less than a pint of paint. Some will sell 1 or
2 oz. touch up bottles though.

Have Fun.
Howard


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ ||    ||\    /||             Howard Moskovitz              +
+ ||    ||\\  //||  \---\      Locus Computing Corporation   +
+ ||<<>>|| \\// ||  /---/      Inglewood, CA 903010   U.S.A  +
+ ||    ||  \/  ||                                           +
+ ||    ||      ||             howard@locus.com              +
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: alt.models
From: hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo)
Subject: Tamiya King Tiger
Organization: Chicago Home for the Morally Challenged
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 17:55:23 GMT
Keywords: kit


Is the Tamiya 1/16 scale King Tiger kit still in production?


                                           Larry Mayo
Xref: sparky alt.models:982 rec.models.railroad:1481 rec.models.rc:3076 rec.models.rockets:1961 news.groups:16196
From: rick@crick.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu (Richard H. Miller)
Newsgroups: alt.models,rec.models.railroad,rec.models.rc,rec.models.rockets,news.groups
Subject: Re: RFD: rec.models.scale
Date: 29 Jul 1992 23:13:47 GMT
Followup-To: alt.models

In article <1992Jul29.182156.7928@advtech.uswest.com>, rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes:
> 
> ACtually, it was originally proposed (back in '89 or so) as rec.models.misc.
> Without degenerating into a flame war, can we discuss this point? This is one
> of the things I want to iron out during the discussion period, before the 
> voting takes place...
> 
> Me, I'll just be happy when we have our rec group, whether it's .scale or
> ..misc. I'll still post kit reviews, I'll still try to answer new modelers'
> questions as well as I can... I just want us to go beyond the alt realm...


No reason for flames.....I think creating the misc group is overdue. What I
would suggest is to create misc and then if the scale model overwhelms the
discussion break it off and form scale.





-- 
Richard H. Miller                 Email: rick@bcm.tmc.edu
Asst. Dir. for Technical Support  Voice: (713)798-3532
Baylor College of Medicine        US Mail: One Baylor Plaza, 302H
                                           Houston, Texas 77030
Newsgroups: alt.models
From: st1ec@rosie.uh.edu (Tse, Oliver)
Subject: Re: RFD: rec.models.scale
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Houston
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 05:23:00 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.182156.7928@advtech.uswest.com>, rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes...
>ACtually, it was originally proposed (back in '89 or so) as rec.models.misc.
>Without degenerating into a flame war, can we discuss this point? This is one
>of the things I want to iron out during the discussion period, before the 
>voting takes place...

The "rec.models.scale" name is just fine.  It describes in general terms all
aspects of traditional "scale" modeling.  I suppose this would also include
the small number of wooden model ship builders in addition to the very large
number of plastic modelers.  Everything in "scale" would fit this description
even some of the "scale" R/C ships.  I vote "yes" for "rec.models.scale."

Oliver
st1ec@rosie.uh.edu


Xref: sparky alt.models:992 rec.models.railroad:1487 rec.models.rc:3089 rec.models.rockets:1967 news.groups:16221
From: thorn@phoenix.radonc.unc.edu (Jesse Thorn)
Newsgroups: alt.models,rec.models.railroad,rec.models.rc,rec.models.rockets,news.groups
Subject: Re: RFD: rec.models.scale
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:15:55 GMT
Organization: Radiation Oncology, NCMH/UNC, Chapel Hill, NC

In article <1992Jul29.182156.7928@advtech.uswest.com> rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes:
>In article <13659@gazette.bcm.tmc.edu>, rick@crick.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu (Richard H. Miller) writes:
>> Actually, since most models are by definition 'scale', I would proposed instead

RC aircraft are usually not scale, but they are models. The
aerodynamics don't scale down very well, so different portions of the
aircraft are in different scales. Some RC models have only the very basic
fuselage shape of the original while the shapes of the wings and tail
surfaces are grossly distorted so the damn thing will fly.

The models that people discuss in alt.models are built to a single
overall scale and, in fact, are miniatures of the real thing. I think
rec.models.scale would be more appropriate. That is all I'm going to
say about the name of the group (maybe...)

>Me, I'll just be happy when we have our rec group, whether it's .scale or
>.misc. I'll still post kit reviews, I'll still try to answer new modelers'
>questions as well as I can... I just want us to go beyond the alt realm...
>
>Other views on this question?
>

If I see any more discussion on what the group should be named I'll
just puke on my keyboard. What does it matter? Have you folks ever
read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance"?. In the book Pirsig
spends a lot of time differentiating between people who are more
concerned with the form/style of things and people who care more about
the utility/function of things. Is the name of the group more
important than the content? It is more important to get it in the rec
hierarchy than to get the appropriate name! Stop it!


--Jesse
From: grenier@nunki.usc.edu (Adrian Grenier)
Newsgroups: alt.models
Subject: Snow diaramas: Armored vehicles
Date: 22 Jul 1992 12:25:49 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: nunki.usc.edu

I am in the process of building a diarama of a Panzer MkV in an Ardennes
Offensive setting and would like to know if anyone has ideas on how to
make realistic looking snow and any other ideas on making a good looking
snow/woodland setting. I am kinda new to the vehicle diarama scene, so all
suggestions would help.

Also if anyone has info on where I can get detailed machin guns (MG34 and 
MG40 I think) I would appreciate it. The Verlinden catalog has only 
American mg's.
		Thanks in advance,
				AD
Xref: sparky alt.models:973 rec.models.railroad:1474 rec.models.rc:3070 rec.models.rockets:1953 news.groups:16176