HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (james mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Dynamat
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:07:01 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: rutgers university

I've recently been installing dynamat in my 90 GTi ( before it broke)
    

Like most of you out there, I put a leistritz exhaust on my car and
realized is was noisy. However, I just upgraded my stereo. Then I hit a
point with the stereo where the road noise etc. was removing the detail
from the stereo. The solution was dynamat.

      I looked all over the car when I was running all my RCA's and
powercables, etc. What I found was:

    No insulation in the doors except a piece of dynamat like material
about 6"x12"
    The floor is covered in a thick plastic sheet containing what looks
like sand. Behind all the other panels, nothing

   Solution. I put dynamat in both front doors. Both inside the door and on
all the other pieces of metal inside. The doors are very flimsy
 Next, I did the A pillars and B pillars. This took one box ( about 15 sq
ft)

     Reduction in noise was acceptable based on the price I spent. It does
work but only if you're willing to go all the way. I can now hear the noise
coming from the rear of the car. The sound is now directional. I assume
this means I have deadend the sound in the front of the car.
       Plus, the doors now shut like a mercedes and they feel heavier.

     The doors are a must. The next best spot was the rear hatch cover (
the shelf that move up and down when you open the hatch not hte hatch
itself). It's flexable and adding the dynamat reduces the resonance from
the trunk. Plus it's cheaper than dynamating the whole trunk.

      The floors aren't the weak point nor is the fire wall. It's all the
panels in the interior.


      Warning on install, heat the mat up well. I put the stuff up in the
summer and the adhesive stuck well by itself without heating. Now with the
winter, some of the sheets are pealing off. I recomend a heat paint
stripper. The electrical one by black & decker speeded things up for me.

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu

 owner of a broken 1990 GTi 8v
From: laurahal@microsoft.com (Laura Halliday)
Subject: Re: 46mm wrench for nut
Date: 20 Nov 92 16:24:27 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Summary: The right tools.

In article <1992Nov19.221113.9130@brtph560.bnr.ca> mdailey@bnr.ca (Matthew N. Dailey) writes:
>The big pipe wrench and cheater works best for me.  I too have 
>broken a couple Craftsman 1/2" breaker bars.  Maybe they will
>eventually refuse to sell them to VW owners.  

I have a Craftsman 1/2" drive bar, and use it with enthusiasm on things
like spring plate bolts. But I would never abuse it on axle shaft nuts -
that's what they make 3/4" drive tools for...See if you can find a tool
liquidation place in your town; my 3/4" drive 1 7/16" socket cost me
5 bucks - and it's an impact socket, too. A 3/4" drive bar was 20 bucks
more.

I don't know offhand what the nearest inch equivalent to 46mm is, but
I'll bet your local VW place would know...

I ended up cutting the axle shaft nuts off my Fastback when a 3/4" drive
impact wrench failed to budge them, but that's another story. :-)

...laura
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: pebi@aem.umn.edu (Peter A. Bidian)
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 19:13:21 GMT

mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!) writes:

>nicos@csa.bu.edu (Nicos Kontopoulos) writes:

>>  I know for a fact that Mercedes and BMW (except M and 8 series) are
>>restricting the top speed of their vehicles to 250 Km/h (155 mph). There
>>is no law requiring this, it is just one more of the "active safety"
>>features offered by these German manufacturers.

>Hate to say it, but that's not a safety feature at all.  The 250kph limit is in
>response to a German tax law.  I'm not sure as to the rate, but the sales tax
>on a new car is raised significantly if the car's top speed is over 250kph.
>Are you sure the 8-series doesn't have a governor?  I thought it did....

Where do you get this information? I hate it, if people give hear-say
as facts. This is not true. It is indeed thought to be some self
restraining done by the companies. The VAT does not depend on the 
speed of the car!

Peter


>Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
>mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
>Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
>Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 46mm nut---How to remove?
Date: 18 Nov 1992 15:59:05 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Not sure if I should admit this but...

One time, before I had that forged-hammer-whack tool, I used my 18 inch
pipe wrench and a four foot cheater.  Worked just fine, and didn't even
chew up the nut all that much.

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: scott@fcs280s.ncifcrf.gov (Michael Scott)
Subject: wheels
Organization: Frederick Cancer Research and Development Center
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 15:38:45 GMT

Will the 15" bbs wheels off a gli fit on my 81 rabbit.?



-- 
	E-mail:		scott@ncifcrf.gov ,Phone #:	(301) 846-5798
        Title:  	Sr. Systems Manager/Analyst
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mcr@cactus.org (Mike)
Subject: VW Get Together in Round Rock This Weekend?
Organization: Capital Area Central Texas UNIX Society, Austin, Tx
Distribution: austin
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:44:14 GMT


Anyone interested in bringing their Vdub(s) out to the Round Rock 
car gathering at the Whataburger lot this Sat nite?  It's time for me
to take my '64 Bug out for his weekend drive so if anyone else is
interested, we could rendezvous out at the car bash.  Send me email
(yeah, email) if interested.

Mike

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike R.					| Old Bugs never die!
mcr@cactus.org				| (they just go to old Volks homes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: teek@flight.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:22:29 GMT

>>Speed governors:
>>
>>BMW only does it on the 3 series... not on the faster (more expensive)
>>cars.  Hmmm.... r they trying to protect the poor people from
>>themselves?!
>
>nope..sorry. The also do it on the 750il's, and the 850i. Not sure
>about the others, but i KNOW they do it on these two, and can probably
>find the article on the 850.
>DREW

Ok... I don't know about the 12 cylinders.. I guess I was referring to
the 5 series and 735's (that's all that were out there when I picked
mine up).

Sorry.


-- 
Teek (Prateek Dwivedi)                  teek@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca
Research Assistant                      pdwivedi@systems.watstar.uwaterloo.ca
Flight Control Systems Group            (519)885-1211 x5314     Voice
University of Waterloo, Canada          (519)746-3077           Fax
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca (Rob Silcher)
Subject: Re: Glowing Front Rotors
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:59:56 GMT

Thanks to all that sent suggestions to my glowing rotor problem. Everyone
suggested that the problem is probably with the caliper. As it turns out the
problem was with the anti-rattle clips.

I had remembered putting one of the clips on slightly incorrectly. I removed
both clips from the caliper/pads and voila the problem went away. I guess the
clips prevented the pads from fully releasing against the rotor.

Thanks again,

Rob Silcher
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: OXS light
Date: 19 Nov 92 01:54:21 GMT
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, tomevans@ralvmm.vnet.ibm.com (tomevans@ralvmm.vnet.ibm.com) says:

>My OXS light has come on to remind me to have my 87 Golf serviced, does anyone	
>know how to reset it?
>Thanks...
>-- 
>Tom Evans  TCP/IP Development 
>TOMEVANS@RALVMM.VNET.IBM.COM; (919) 254-4097
>

i think so...how to reset it, but not do what it is telling you to do..
you should get the O2 sensor changed..but..to reset the light(i assume that
the 87 does it like myne..i believe so..but am not sure..the 86's are)..
take out the coolant "reservoir" thingie...the one that holds radiator fluid..
and then there is a box into which your speedo cable and, i think, some other
misc. crap runs...find the white button, take your key, and press this button
all the way in...if it does not work the first time..do it again...it may
take two or three times to get it to reset...good luck..hope it works for you!
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: more_da@pts.mot.com (DAN MORERA X2585 P7083)
Subject: Re: Bug prices?
Reply-To: more_da@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 23:27:27 GMT

Whatta you mean?  All bugs are great!  Ok..maybe not all of them.  From the sound of your article you're looking for a good driver.  Alot is based upon opinion.  Her's some general guidelines.

Convertables: Very desirable.  VW made approx. 25 sedans for every conv.  But... Tops are very expensive to replace and parts for the old ones are getting scarce.  I've got a '59 for sale (sorry had to throw that in).

Sunroofs: 63 and earlier cloth sunroofs are very cool.  These are becoming very rare as people are starting to cut the roof sections out of early cars to graft onto later model sedans.  The big sunroof is more practical than the conv.  Later metal sunroofs are no big deal.

Splits and oval (pre 58): Parts are scarce and expensive.  Contrary to popular belief, parts are very specific to certain years and things only interchange on a gross level.  Unless you want a show car stay away or are looking for a good investment as these old models are getting very rare in good shape.  Beware of butchered cars (early bodies on late pans...).

Pre 60 cars:  Split case-no synchro trans and 36 hp.  Not what I'd call good for daily driving.  Later engines and transmissions are a fairly easy swap although the tranny change takes a special bus nose cone.

60-66: Good years: Glass covered headlights, over-rider bumpers (looks cool).  Decent engines 40 hp etc.  Classic look.  Only drawback is 6 volt.  Although I've never had a problem with mine.

67:  Some people claim this to be the best year.  Old style bumpers, high back seats and 1500 cc engines w/ 12 volts.  But (dark side)  almost every part on the car is 67 model year only.  The body parts are hard to find.

68-72:  Good year for drivers.  Bigger motors (1600 in 71) and IRS suspension.

73-: Big ugly tail lights and crash bumpers and even worse rounded windshields.  Sorry...I degress.  I guess I'm opinionated.

Karman Ghias:  Getting very hard to find.  Especially the early ones with the old style bumpers.  Beware of rust.  There are no replacement floor pans for the KG available.

Notchbacks:  Becoming very popular.

Autostick:  I came up with a way to keep my bug from getting stolen.  I put an autostick emblem on the back.  Very undesirable.  Converting to a 4 speed is tough as there is no clutch cable tube in the floor pan.

As far as prices go It's hard to call.  A good rust free car will always be worth alot.  67 and earlier cars bring good money.  Where I'm at a good vintage car seems to find a buyer at any price.  Hope this is some help.
---
*********************************************************************
* "Could be worse -- could be raining."  * Daniel Morera            *
*********************************************************************
*                                        * more_da@pts4.pts.mot.com *
*********************************************************************
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Restricted top speed (Re: 93 Jetta GLX 6 cylinder-)
Date: 24 Nov 1992 04:16:07 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, ereddy@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Edward Reddy  MI) says:

>In article <1epjnsINNja9@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
>>nope..sorry. The also do it on the 750il's, and the 850i. Not sure
>>about the others, but i KNOW they do it on these two, and can probably
>>find the article on the 850.
>>DREW
>
>Well, in CARandDRIVER, the top speeds of the 318 is 119mph.
>325i - 128mph.
>525i - 128mph.
>535i - 148mph.
>735i - 140mph.
>750i - 158mph.
>850i - 156mph.
>M5   - 156mph.
> 
>Does a car that can go 156mph have a govener? Think about that one...

if you are refferring to the 850, yes. in fact, i believe they are
limited to 155. now, is 156 such a margin of error?  many things
could allow this extra mph, from rounding, to wind, to throttle 
position.  I do know that they have one..gonna have to look for 
the article...

>140mph is really fast. A Corvette ZR-1 is 171mph - also extremley fast.
> 
>I don't know, but when I was in germany, even doing 125mph was plenty
>speed. But 140 in a Golf? Eeeek. Do I even want to be in a Golf VR6
>doing 140mph? Hmmmm. I doubt that the vehicle is governed. The Corrado
>VR6 does 140mph quite well, but I would have to assume its .32 drag
>coefficient(sp) would eventually stop it somewhere. The Golf is lighter,
>but has more drag. 140mph would seem a logical speed for a 172(is that
>correct?) HP engine.
sounds like a damn silly one! esp. since the advertised top speed of the
G60 was 40..that's 30 extra horses, and i believe a higher redline, which
would indicate that the power comes higher in the curve(i have NO proof,
as i haven't seen a power curve plot!, but they usually have a reason for
raising the redline. RE: golf8v vs golf 16v))  seems to me that the 
vr6 corrado should go over 140, unless limited.
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Is Texaco's Antifreeze phosphate-free?
Date: 16 Nov 92 14:51:48 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

maxc1189@ucselx.sdsu.edu (Ivan Z. Padilla) writes:

> Is Texaco's Antifreeze phosphate-free? or
> I need a do I really need a phosphate-free antifreeze for
> my Golf, 85? or
> Can you recommend an appropriate brand for my car?
> 
> Thanks

Yes, most are, Prestone, Zerex, they are all fine.  Get a copy of the FAQ.

(Ive run Prestone and Zerex in my Golf.. no problems at all.)

--
Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker
    68' Cougar XR-7, 89' VW Golf, 74' Honda CL360t, Vextrex Unit Lover
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: javad@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Agha Javad)
Subject: GLI clutch
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:29:56 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard  


By the way, guys, I just had a qestion about my 90 1/2 GLI's clutch...

For a while now, it has been engaging towards the high end, and I remember
in the beginning it was engaging lower.  THe dealer said he adjusted it
last service (1200 miles ago), but it feels pretty much the same.  Does this
mean it is going bad?  What do other GLI's out there feel like?  Any comments
appreciated.


Thanks much,


Javad
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 16:25:01 GMT

In article <1e4a23INNkjr@fido.asd.sgi.com> thk@sgi.com (Tom Kong) writes:
> There seems to be a common belief that it is better to run the engine at
> cooler temperature, hence we see 160F thermostat on the market, and 
various
> schemes such as the above to allow the engine to run cooler.
> 
> Perhaps someone knowledgeable can explain why there is such a need.  I 
would
> assume that the factory knows what is best.  My understanding is that 
running
> the engine at higher temperature improves its efficiency, and by running
> cooler than designed, piston ring to bore clearence may not be optimal

According to aviators, you want your oil to be warm enough (180 + ?) to 
cook out the moisture that  is a byproduct of combustion.  Failure to do 
so will contribute to acidity of the oil (combination of moisture with 
combustion  byproducts ?).  The only question is, how will lowering 
coolant temperature by 20f affect oil temperature ?  Agree that this 
sounds like another area in which the factory probably got it right.  There is 
no need to change for the sake of change.
From: v129qp43@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: query: temp LED out (80 FI Jetta)
Date: 19 Nov 92 00:47:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Anyone else have a functioning engine temp gauge with a
LED that never comes on, even at engine startup with all
the other indicator bulbs on the dash?  It seems to be
part of a sealed unit, but who knows....  

Thanks for all and any ideas.
         Hugh C129QP43@UBVM
From: dunster@sdsu.edu (mark dunster)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 17 Nov 92 00:45:00 GMT
Organization: sdsu
NNTP-Posting-Host: mathfp12.sdsu.edu

In article <lgfruvINN9h6@news.bbn.com>, jjd@bbn.com (James J Dempsey) writes:

 
> VW is not totally blameless here.  The small front quarter windows
        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> made VWs very easy targets as did the design of the door handles which
> allowed easy break-in via scewdriver. 


                       Isn't VW is *totally* to blame?


> VW can't be blamed for the popular (to theives) DIN sized stereo
     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> mounting hole or the nice pseudo high end stereos they install.


                        Well, I blame VW

> 
> VW should be applauded for the new Passat/Corrado and GolfIII/JettaIII
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> door handles that are supposed to be significantly improved in this
> regard.  They should be applauded for the tamper resistant stereo
                ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> systems which stop functioning when stolen.  They should be applauded
                                                     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> for making alarms standard equipment on Passat and Corrado.


 Oh please. I think I'll give them the finger (or two in the UK), instead.


> 
> They obviously realize that it is a problem and are trying to make
                                                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> things better. 
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^  (For themselves, maybe?)

They've surely known that this is a problem for a decade. Why has it 
taken them so damned long to rectify their appalling design???? If they
are FINALLY doing something about it, after all these years, most
probably it's because their legendary theft record is beginning to eat 
into their sales.
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Keeping Your Watercooled VW cool.
Date: 19 Nov 1992 11:14:37 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Well, I'd still rather not have my fan running all the time,
but perhaps my reasons are not all technically sound.  When my
fan is on high, it's much louder than my engine at idle - I'd
hate to have to listen to it all the time, especially if it
wasn't necessary.

Are thermostats really "digital" or do they leak somewhat?  If
my car was cold, I guess I could take the cap off my radiator
and see if coolant started to flow before the engine warmed up.
Then again - maybe I'll let someone else do this.  8-)

I thought that cars with crank driven fans have
thermostatically controlled clutches so those fans don't run
all the time.

I think it's true, the fan doesn't just cool the radiator, it
forces air through the entire engine compartment.  So it
shouldn't be necessary if the car is moving fast enough for
this to happen normally.

(hey.. maybe we'll be talking about electrically pre-heated
 catalytic converters next year?)

cheers,

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Golf GT transmission
Date: 13 Nov 92 22:47:01 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

Hi folks,
     My friend has a Golf GT ('87 or '88, I forget). Anyway, his transmission
died on him. I think it's the close ratio 5 speed that there has been a thread
about recently where the transmissions destroy themselves. In any case, it's
a 5 speed. When his mechanic drained the tranny, this thing came out that looked
like a rivet that had been sheered off of something! Does this sound anything
like the symptoms of the close ratio 5 speed problem? What specifically is
that problem again? Sorry, I wasn't paying too much attention when it started.

My friends mechanic quoted him a couple hundred just to diagnose the problem
because the transaxle has to be pulled. Who knows how much it will cost
above that. Any helpfull hints that I can pass on to him?

Thanks,
-Jeff

-- 
=========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision Corp, 14 Crosby Dr. MS 5-2, Bedford, MA 01730
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee                       (soon to be CV.Com ??)
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 16 Nov 1992 22:13:47 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill) says:

>
>	Here's another suggestion for A1 Golf/Rabbit owners:  Remove the
>model label from the back and replace it with a "RABBIT DIESEL C" emblem.
>
>Tom.  (Nobody *ever* tries to steal my car!) :-)
>
>
maybe i should have thought of this before i switched the emblem...hehe..
i swithced myne from diesel to fuel i njected..oh well....it's never been
broken into either...(grin)
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!