HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: george@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu (George Jefferson -Bassani)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 7 Jan 93 17:18:47 GMT
Organization: Laboratory for Research on the Structure of Matter, University of Pennsylvania

:
:   Sorry, my comments got deleted from my previous reply. What I was going to say is that I believe that MTBE stands for Methyl Tetra Butyl Ether if anyone
:is interested.

sounds good.  The literature from the counter at the local ARCO..er.Atlantic
station explains that the oxy. requiremant can legally be satisfied
by _either_ MTBE _or_ an alchohol blend.  They use MTBE ( without
explaining why ), which is interesting because arco got a very bad reputation
for selling 'gasahol' some years back (actually pulled out of the region,
then reappeared with a new name, and proclaiming no alchohol sold here..)

if anyone is interested :-)

-- 
george     --    george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: cleaning solvents
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 6 Jan 93 16:38:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> The ideal solvent - if you can store the thing outdoors because of
-> the odor - is a cresylic acid-based heavy dip.  This is the same

 Huh.  I guess it would be more reasonable to put the tank outside if I
can find a spot.  The back yard is mostly filled with shop now - I had
to get a code variance from the city to build the thing.  Maybe I could
move it by that damned nuisance tree my wife insists on keeping.
(sigh... I could use the space to park another car)
From: c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: C3 ECM schematics available somewhere?
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:58:18 GMT
Organization: Delco Electronics Corp.

In article <1imho2EINN284@uni-erlangen.de> orscholz@immd4.informatik.uni-erlangen.de (Oliver Scholz) writes:
>I was wondering if the schematics for GM's C3 2.8PFI ECM's
>are available somewhere?

Yes.

>Does anybody know where to get one or even have one?

Yes.

:-)

Spiros
-- 
Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Technology, Delco Electronics       (317) 451-0815
GM Hughes Electronics, Kokomo, IN 46904      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: Asbestos from brake pads - How to clean it up safely
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:53:21 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.010704.27848@csc.canberra.edu.au>, mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au (Micheal Rainford-Watson) writes:
> Recently I was changing the brake shoes on my car and noticed all the
> warnings about asbestos dust. What wasn't suggested was a way to get
> rid of it without breathing it in. Does anyone know how to do this
> safely and without any fancy tools?
A good question, which I do not here answer completely.  But what I at least
did is buy a package of 10 surgical masks; that protects you somewhat,
but not the environment.
-- 
Brendan Welch, UMass/Lowell, W1LPG,  welchb@woods.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chris@ponder.csci.unt.edu (chris gleaves)
Subject: hp/torque for Chevy 305 and 350?
Reply-To: chris@unt.edu
Organization: University of North Texas, Denton
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 15:23:06 GMT

Hi,

  Does anyone out there know the hp and torque for a 1983 chevy 305 and a
chevy 350?  Just curious...

Thanks,
chris
chris@unt.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Al Mark <amark@inst-sun1.jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Tires: BFGoodrich vs. Goodyear
Organization: JPL, Pasadena, CA
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1b2
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 16:02:38 GMT

In article <1993Jan04.204343.23137@eng.umd.edu> Josip Loncaric,
josip@eng.umd.edu writes:
>My 1991 Ford Taurus SHO needs new tires.  The original equipment tires
>are Goodyear Eagle GT+4 P215/60R16 rated 94V, treadwear 200, temperature
A
>and traction A.  These tires are directional (give best performance when
>rolling forward).
>
>The tire dealer suggests BFBoodrich Comp T/A tire, same size, V rated.  
>He claims comparable performance or even slightly better traction.  
>I have no clue.  Does anyone have any ideas on this?  

In article <29242@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Bernard O'Dell,
odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil writes:
>As I recall, the Comp T/A has a treadwear rating of 340--

You probably bought the SHO for performance reasons and when Ford
designed this car they put the  tires on it that would deliver this
performance.  Most car manufacturers usually don't give two hoots about
the original equipment tires when they sell you a "plain jane"
cruiser.....but the SHO is definitely not in that category.  

Don't fall into the trap of looking for tires with higher treadwear
ratings.  These ratings are determined by the tire manufacturer....there
are no comparitive standards in the tire industry.  Generally, the tire
manufacturer is honest, however treadwear is related to
"softness/hardness" of the tire.....i.e., the lower the rating the
"softer" the rubber compund.  The "softer" the tire, the more adhesion. 

If the dealer sells Goodrich, he's going to tell you that they're the
better tire....likewise with the Goodyear dealer.  Most of the car mags
have articles re: tires. (Car & Driver, Road & Track, etc.).  Based on
having owned 44 cars in my life (most performance types), my gut advice
would be to go with the Eagles if they've given you good performance.
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
 AL MARK                                                        
 I brake for deer....NOW..     
 Honk if you like earthquakes! 
....My employer knows nothing about this....I know even less.....
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,misc.consumers
From: hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo)
Subject: *** 87 Chrysler 2.2 Liter Engine ---Mixture Stuck Ritch--HELP!!!!!
Organization: Chicago Home for the Morally Challenged
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 15:19:18 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Keywords: Fuel injection haywire

My 87 Plymouth Reliant flunked its emission control test due to too 
much O and other components indicating overly rich mixture.

I dumped the diagnostic codes, and got nothing. So, I replaced all four plugs
all four plug wires, as well as the distributor cap and rotor and retarded the
ignition slightly.

On the second test, it flunked again.

I replaced the O2 sensor, and reset the timing to specs, 12 degrees BTDC.

On starting the engine, it runs fine until it warms up, then runs roughly,
a classic symptom of over-rich mixture.

Now, when I dump the diagnostic codes, I get a 52, which indicates that the
mixture is stuck rich. I checked the injector by unplugging it and cranking the 
engine. No leakage was detected.


I'm at the end of my rope. The Chiltons guide DOES NOT GIVE ANY PROCEEDURE
for dealing with this failure. Does anybody have any idea what the %#&*%$
is wrong???  Heeeeelllllp!!!!


                                                       Larry Mayo
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:52:46 EST
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
 <ELI.93Jan3201123@regal.cisco.com>

In article <ELI.93Jan3201123@regal.cisco.com>, eli@cisco.com (Steve Elias) says:
>
>both of my honda civics gas mileage dropped by 15% or so
>with this oxy gas.  power seems to have dropped by at least
>15% on the 91 civic hatchback (70 hp rating).
>
>i know that a properly tuned designed-for-87-octane engine without
>knock sensor should not benefit from super unleaded.
>but as an experiment i am running super unleaded in both hondas now.
>on the 91 hatchback, there is a noticable power increase with
>the super oxy as opposed to the normal 87 octane oxy fuel.
>is this the placebo effect?  has anyone out there tried this?
>
>/eli

My 82 Civic too had a remarkable mpg drop. It once had an record of 47 on my
way to Chicago in 91. But now, it's reluctant to go up to 40 on interstate
starting this Winter. No other troubles are found, just mpg drop. I believe
it's the gas.

Ching



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 22:00:23 GMT


     I'm just tuning in so spare me.  I've heard that this oxygenated gasoline
is the same stuff you could buy at the cheaper gas stations (Speedway, Gastown)
before.  That is that all it is is regular unleaded gas mixed with 10% ethanol.
I have always put this stuff in my 81 Regal and never noticed a difference in
milege when they started calling it oxygenated.

???????

steve
-- 
"Nobody tells a Navy man when he's had enough to drink, cause only a Navy man
 knows when he's had enough to drink!"
-Steven J Orlin   sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu  /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chris@dvorak.amd.com (Chris Neugebauer)
Subject: porting the heads
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.; Austin, Texas
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 14:22:13 GMT

In many discussions or articles on high-performance engines,
one thing that I frequently see mentioned is that 'they ported
the heads'.  What exactly does this mean?  How much of a power
increase is this sort of thing good for?

Thanks,
  Chris

chris@dvorak.amd.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: How do you determine correct tire pressure?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 4 Jan 93 16:41:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> What's the right way to figure out what tire pressure to use?
-> The owner's manual gives suggestions, but those are for the
-> stock tires, and most of us are running something different.
-> Is it true that looking at the contact patch is the only way
-> to be sure?

 If you drive on the street mostly and have the time, looking at the
contact patch will give a very good indication, assuming you don't have
excessive body roll or camber affecting the wear on the front tires.

 For drag racing, you increase the pressure until your burnout stripes
are evenly black from side to side.  For autocross, you jack in enough
air to keep from grinding the letters off the sidewalls, then look at
your braking marks.  Most autocross cars don't have enough power to get
a really good stripe from the rear, either because they have hamsters
under the hood or gumball tires.

 Concrete roads or driveways work better than blacktop.

 My '72 Capri, with 15x7 wheels and 195/50-15s, liked 45 psi.  For
autocrossing I'd bump it to 55psi, as I found a detectable improvement
in handling.  45 was the minimum for the street, though, as the sides of
the tires would wear due to underinflation.

 The sidewalls of the NCTs were marked, as per usual practice, "MAXIMUM
INFLATION PRESSURE 35 PSI."  If you pull a trailer or carry a heavy load
I wouldn't recommend going (much) past recommended due to possible heat
buildup.  For the Capri, after 12 hours on I40 last year the sidewalls
still had frost on them from that morning, so I don't think they were
running hot.
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Dork drivers (Was:Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted)
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:03:10 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <C0KF47.4H2@cup.hp.com>, dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:
> 
> This applies to all of left lane blockers,

These are the ones I can't stand!!!! 
In NJ, there is a law that states "Keep right except to pass", which makes no 
mention of any speed requirements. Which means "I don't care if you are doing 
the speed limit, get out of my way!" :-)

>  people with bright
> lights, motorcycles who run their brights during the day, and
> tailgaters.  Maximizing the chance of being killed because a mad 
> redneck did something stupid in your vicinity just doesn't
> seem, well, the goal.
> 
> Dan Hepner

-- 

 Lee Havemann, Comp Ops Dir.    HSH Associates      (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."                     
Organization: Sophomore, Mechanical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Thu,  7 Jan 1993 01:45:02 -0500 
From: Steve Anthony Nilsen <sn1k+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Timing marks on 86 Accord

Anyone properly set the ignition timing on an 86 Accord with carb?  When
I shine the timing light into the slot between the transmission and block
onto the flywheel (as the Haynes book says), I can see only one little marker,
probably for TDC.  The engine should be 15 degrees before top dead center.
There is a pointer fixed to the block, the flywheel spins, and when you shine
the timing light at the flywheel you are supposed to read the numbers stamped
on the plaque (attached to the flywheel).  All I see is a big blur, except for
the TDC hole.  Right now I just set it a little before TDC, and it seems to run
fine.  Actually I could tell no difference between the advanced and retarded
settings.  Maybe it's not that critical?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andy@b30.ingr.com (Andrew Brezinski)
Subject: Re: Oh No!  I need the doctors advice!
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 21:57:39 GMT

In article <1993Jan10.233048.62609@cc.usu.edu> slhmz@cc.usu.edu writes:
>
>Doctor!  Doctor!  Help me!
>
>Symptoms:
>
>1.   Extreme loss of power when accelerating or starting out in first.
>
>2.   Nearly stalls (but hangs on) when shifting from first to second, or
>     when you floor the accelerator.
>
>3.   Horrible smell whenever the engine has to work to get up a steep hill,
>     or over a snow drift, etc...
>     The smell is not like oil, but more like the smell of a vacuum cleaner
>     burning it's belt.  Smell comes from the engine as well as in exhaust.
>
>4.   Extremely poor engine preformance at low idles and in 5th gear.
>5.   "Check Engine Light" comes on occationly, setting code 23
>
>What is wrong?  What is making that smell?
>
>The car?  1987 Pontiac Sunbird SE  2.0L 4cyl.  Throttle body FI
>
>Thanks!
>
>--
>Travis Carter
>
>    

This is just a guess, but I'd check to see if all of the vacuum lines are
intact and connected.  That may be the cause of the performance problems.

As for the smell, maybe a loose accessory belt.  I believe the standard
rule of thumb for this is that the belt should flex about 1/2" in either
direction over it's longest span.  But you may want to check with an expert.

Hope this helps.

Andy Brezinski
Intergraph Corporation
Huntsville, AL 35894-0001
From: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gas-resistant adhesive
Date: 8 Jan 93 17:37:42 GMT
Reply-To: mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Malcolm G. Costello)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, jjolly@jjolly.b24a.ingr.com (Jack G. Jolly) writes:
xI bought a locking gas cap for my '72 vette  a while back.  On the underside
xit has a rubber gasket which came off within about 3 weeks.  I tried to stick
xit back on with a variety of adhesives w/o luck - any suggestions for a "rubber
xto metal" adhesive that can withstand gas vapors??
x
xJJ

Have you checked your local discount auto parts store? They should have
a number of sealers/adhesives by companies like Permatex. Just read
the label and find one thats impervious to gas.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mack Costello <mcostell@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Code 65.1 (formerly 1720.1)
David Taylor Model Basin, Carderock Division Hq. NSWC    ___/-\____
Bethesda, MD 20084-5000   Phone (301) 227-2431          (__________>|

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: markt@clyde.ICS.UCI.EDU
Subject: Help: Arc at coil -- 1985 Nissan Sentra
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: 9 Jan 93 00:52:51 GMT


The arc is about 1" to 1.5" long, running along the "body" of the
coil, beginning where the wire to the distributor leaves the coil.

I don't really have any idea which component is at fault, and
would appreciate some guidance before I begin replacing parts.
I am tempted to replace coil/plug wires or the coil itself. Any
suggestions?

Thanks,

Mark
From: mjwagner@bsu-cs.bsu.edu (Mike Wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: My Brakes Squeeeeek!
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:19:34 GMT
Organization: CS Dept, Ball St U, Muncie, Indiana
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I own a 1981 Mazda RX-7 and have recently had the brakes replaced.  Ever
since I have had the brakes replaced, 90% of the times that I stop, the
brakes scream (enough to give me a headache!).  It wouldn't be so bad if
it was a small squeak, but it is LOUD...  I have had it looked at x2 now
and no-one has fixed it.  

I also have a light on my dash that says _brake lamp_ that has malfunctioned
ever since I have had the car.  I will come on when there is a significant
drain on the battery (ie the turnsignals, or at night when I have to head-
lights on)  if anyone can tell me a way to fix this problem I would appreciate
it.  (No mechanics seem to know the solution to this either for some
reason.)

Mike Wagner (mjwagner@bsu-cs.bsu.edu)
From: golder@titan.ppd.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What is the resonable oil comsumption?
Date: 5 Jan 93 13:52:52 GMT

|> In article <1992Dec30.194333.24745@osf.org>, kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:
|> |> I've got a turbocharged Ford 2.3L I4 that seems to use a lot of oil, I
|> |> haven't measured it, but I'd figure about a qt. every Kmi or so (I've got
|> |> a nice light that tells me when I'm down a quart). I've always attributed
|> |> this to my habit of slowing with the transmission (== high rpm downshifts,
|> |> which == lotsa vacuum, which == oil sucked down the valve guides). My plug
|> |> thread ends have some burnt oil on them, but the tips and electrodes are
|> |> *always* clean ('cuz I drive like Bobby Rahal- no fouling here :-), and
|> |> there's no oil smoke on startup or grease in the pipe, either.
|> |> 
|> |> Anyone else with this experience?

I have a Ford turbo 2.3 also.  Like yours, mine uses about 1 quart per 
1000 miles.  I don't think you can consider this excessive for a turbo
engine.  The turbo is hard on the oil & I think you have to expect 
higher consumption than in a non-turbo engine.  As long as it's not
getting any worse, just keep the level up, change it frequently, & don't
worry about it.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Woodgrain Sides
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 18:54:29 GMT

In article <RRUSK.93Jan6164741@rcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com> rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com writes:
>OK, so after swearing in my teens that I'd never own such a beast, I've
>come into posession of a Dodge Caravan with woodgrain sides.  Although
>the exterior decor would not be my first choice, I'd really like to treat
>it well and have it look presentable for a long time.  So, how does one
>maintain woodgrain sides?
>
>--
> Bob Rusk

:-)
1) Tung Oil once a year
2) Pledge once a week
3) Remove scratches with 00 steel wool and Olde English furniture
polish

Seriously, unless this is a 50's Woody, isn't the woodgrain about the
same as auto paint and you treat it the same way (weekly washes in
muddy water, seasonal spraying with salty water, occasional peanut
butter finger painting)?

-andy
From: sandrar@garnet.berkeley.edu (Sandi Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: The Stanza Saga continues: More advice sought for '83
Date: 7 Jan 1993 20:02:32 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu





Last month I posted a query for diagnostic help with my '83 Stanza.  I got
_many_ helpful replies, but the clear consensus seemed to be that the
Electronic Ignition Module was the cause for the sudden cutoffs (and inability
to keep the car running) that I was experiencing.  We ran the diagnostic,
and sure enough the result indicated that this was faulty.

We replaced the Ignition Module.  The parts dealer also offered to install a 
new vacuum advance and rebuild the bearings on the (distributor, I think) 
because there was "too much play." We went for the package deal; when we got 
the assembly home, it turned out that the vacuum advance had been mounted 
improperly (out by 90 degrees) so we had to get a different connecting hose.  
We now suspect that we were sold used parts; the advance looked sloppily 
crimped, and the mounting has made us wary.  While it seems that the cutout 
problem has been (temporarily?) fixed, the car is running _LOUSILY!!_

We have replaced the plugs, wire, cap & rotor, the vacuum advance, checked
for arcing and proper fuel pump operation....

To add further complications, the fan has also died, so the car overheats
if driven in town traffic.  The thought was that perhaps an electrical
problem of some sort has caused the computers in the carburetion/ignition
system to be burned.  This might explain the idling problems (electronic
carburetion control) and the fan (burned out fan relay).

Any thoughts?  We've about reached the end of our expertise once the
computer components enter the discussion!  Thanks again for all the help.
Posting or e-mail is fine; I'll summarize if there's any interest.

Sandi
From: overland@lonestar.utsa.edu (Michael A. Overland)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford paint and recalls
Date: 9 Jan 93 21:13:09 GMT
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio

My father owns a 1991 Ford Bronco and after I got done washing it today, I
noticed that the paint on the hood and front quarter pannels looked cracked
and discolored.  The truck is cared for with kid gloves and I was wondering
if anyone knew if there was a recall on this paint.  I know for a fact that
it is the paint because I'm the one who has washed the truck since it was 
purchased.  The truck has never been put through a car wash or had harsh
chemicals put on the paint for cleaning purposes.  If anyone has any 
information on a recall on the paint on this truck, please let me know through 
either e-mail (overland@lonestar.utsa.edu) or through the net.
Thank you in advence,
Michael Overland

-- 
STAR                      overland@lonestar.utsa.edu
  TREK
    DEEP SPACE 9