HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pwu@pop-tarts.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: $400 to fix oil problem in Cutlass?
Date: 14 Aug 92 04:59:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: life.26565
Distribution: na
In-reply-to: cfaks@ux1.cts.eiu.edu's message of 13 Aug 92 00:29:00 GMT

You have noticed the outrageous oil change price.  I cannot believe that they
use Bosch plugs in "bare minimum" fix.  By the way, is it your typo that there
are two cleaner conditioner on the bill?

Since your daughter had asked the mechanist to save old parts but he did not,
there is reasonable doubt that what they did were necessary or they ever did
what they claimed.  They had at least breached contract on this account.  To
be fair and nice to them and make your case better, you might want to ask a
credible mechanist to check the car and give you an opinion about the
performed work.  Ask for an fair estimate for the strictly necessary and bare
minimum part.  That might be the maximum you owe them legally.  Netters may
comment on this.

I think you have the right of refusing the payment as they charged.  If I were
you I would try the following in order: Talk to the mechanist or the manager
and see if you may reach an agreement by yourself.  Failing that, talk to the
better business bureau or similar consumer protection agency.  You may ask the
Antony general about your legal rights in this case.

If your daughter paid by credit card, I think you stand in a good position.
You certainly can call the credit card customer service, tell them why you are
not satisfied with their work, and ask them to suspend or stop payment.  They
usually will ask you to write a letter of complaint.  The credit card company
can investigate and might settle things for you.  This might prove to be the
easiest way for you.

Good luck.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
     <Bt8p7D.4A2@taligent.com> <31160130@hpspkla.spk.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 20:34:17 GMT

Re: Spark plug wire help

In article <31160130@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> Don T. Borowski,
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com writes:
>But I know of none of these cars which have the one-coil-per-plug
>arrangement described above.

Maybe the guy in the Nissan Service dept. was confused...  then again
maybe you are just plain ignorant of this particular vehicle.  Go ahead
and call somebody in the service dept. of a Nissan dealer.  Don't just
assume that my car doesn't have this arrangement.

The word "alternator" was a mistake... I meant distributor.

--Tom--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kkm@cyclone.larc.nasa.gov (Kenna Macauley)
Subject: Re: Blueprinting - What is it.
Reply-To: kkm@cyclone.larc.nasa.gov (Kenna Macauley)
Organization: NASA LaRC 
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 20:21:43 GMT


 Blueprinting is the process of building an engine to design specifications.
When an engine is designed the engineers design that engine using optimum 
clearances. The trouble comes when you try to mass produce engines. It would 
be impossible to build them all to the exact dimensions called for by the 
designer, so what they include with a particular dimension is a tolerance.
(i.e. for a crankshaft journal the dimension on the drawing would be 
specified as 3.245 plus or minus .003) What this means is that all crankshaft 
journals between 3.242 and 3.248 would be considered usable. When one has the 
desire to "Blueprint" an engine he has his machinist build his engine to 
design specifications (meaining his crank journal would measure exactly 3.245)
Theoreticaly this should result in an optimum engine that produces more 
power, since it was built to the exact dimensions for that engine than one 
that was mass produced.

As far as port matching and polishing unless you're in competive racing
where tenths of a second matter I don't think it's worth the effort, Usually 
I think you'll find that you're time and effort could be better spent 
elsewhere for larger performance gains. Also there is a school of thought 
that for most purposes intake ports should not be smoothed too much. 
Apparently the tubulence in ports caused by the rough sand castings actually 
helps atomize the fuel for a more efficent and rapid combustion. And as a 
matter of fact I know of one high performance manifold (Edelbrock Torker)  
that is actually designed to be offset from the port to create turbulence for 
the same above reason you should leave the ports rough.

kkm@cyclone.larc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Subject: FAQ? Ford Cologne 2000 Timing Belt
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 09:34:08 GMT

I have a Ford Sierra with the 2 litre OHC "Cologne" engine -- I understand 
that this was dropped in Europe(?) but it is still in full production here 
in South Africa.
Is this engine of the "freewheeling" type?  (i.e. if the cam-belt breaks 
will the engine self-destruct on account of the pistons hitting the valves.)
(I have replaced the timing belt as a regular maint. item.   My ?? is merely 
for interest's sake.)

Thanks in advance for any e-mails.

Cheers,

Keith Coman
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How do I start working on my A/C?
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:23:35 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, iseman@chopin.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:
>In article <1992Aug10.124354.1@pa881a.inland.com> nason@pa881a.inland.com write
>s:
>>>
>>
>>Assuming your in Engineering school, the theory in not too difficult.
>>Refrigerant is exposed to low pressure, boils, and therefor absorbs heat.
>
>WHAT!, NO NO NO.

		    *YES* *YES* *YES*

>First of all, refrigerant exposed to low pressure will cool.
>
>Second, if a substance boils it certainly does NOT absorb heat-it gives heat
>off.
>
>Steve

		    *NO* *NO* *NO*

The original poster is correct!  A liquid (such as R-12, or water for
that matter) subjected to a sufficiently low pressure will evaporate
rapidly (boil).  It requires heat (the heat of vaporization) to boil;
its temperature will drop to attract heat from something else (like
the A/C evaporator fins).  When it draws heat from that evaporator, the
evaporator loses heat and gets cold.

A boiling substance *must* absorb heat in order to boil.  Boiling water
on the stove will seem to give off heat because it is hotter than its
surroundings, but it must absorb more heat from the stove than it gives
off or it won't boil.

-DaveP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: thos@suite.sw.oz.au (Thomas Cohen)
Subject: (Lucas electrics) Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Organization: Softway Pty Ltd
Date: 18 Aug 92 23:13:42 GMT

In <bakc.97.714037347@giraffe.ru.ac.za> bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN) writes:

>1.
>Switchgear -- indictors, fuel pump switches, headlamps, dipswitchs, reverse 
>lights.

Nope. All Vile Calumny. They work fine, as long as they're not fiddled 
with. And they can be repaired without replacing as a unit.
The 30 year old wiring in my 997 Cooper is just fine thanks. It only
had trouble when some modern mechanic undid a wire to put a hand washer
pump in the hole. This (loose) wire then shorted out my lights. (And a
big thank you the Frank's Automotive for being assholes)
The only other problem I had was with the bullet connectors for the
rear lights. Once I found which one was loose I shoved it back in and 
and it's been fine ever since.

>2.
>Fuel injection system: a la Triumph 2500 PI

The Lucas fuel injection is again a victim of bad press. If it can
run for 24 hours at Le Mans, it should do for a family car. The problem
(according to a recent 'Thoroughbred & Classic Cars' was that mechanics
just didn't want to learn how to service them, and they are fine once
set up right. Plus, they're a pretty neat design.

>3.
>Heater/ventilation fan motors
I think your problem is you expect everything to work as well as an
American car, where you have twice as much room for any given component.

>4.
>Ignition distributors: points, vacuum advance mech. -- don'tcha also just 
>love the way these little items attract the least amount of damp/moisture 
>and go on strike??

Dunno. It's a flaky thing. In my Clubman GT I have driven through water 
that was over the height of the exhaust (I could hear it bubbling out
back) and the water was coming in the drainholes in the floor - and 
there was no problem. In other cases I have driven through light drizzle 
for 10 minutes and the car went on to 3 cylinders.

>5.
>The DREADED SU FUEL PUMP!!!

Well, yes. Enuff said. Although if it is in good condition it will work
quite happily.

>6.
>The INFAMOUS LUCAS IGNITION COIL!!!!

Never used one (to my knowledge - unless those all-aluminium coloured
ones are Lucas - never had trouble with them anyway) - all my minis
use Bosch GT40s.


To my mind, the best thing about Lucas electrics is that it can be
repaired, and will work so-so for an incredibly long time. My parents'
Mazda has rear light clusters that are one piece and cost hundreds of
dollars to replace. The minis have separate lens pieces, backing plate,
and with a bit of ingenuity you can replace the bulb socket springs etc.
If only you could get replacement lights for the indicator stalk.
That's something that must be bought as a unit.


regards,
-- 
thos cohen  				       |Softway Pty Ltd
 The best way to make a Japanese engineer wince|ACSnet:         thos@softway.oz
 is (when talking about an NSX) to say slowly  |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
 'but its _not a Ferrari_ is it?' R.Bulgin, CAR|Internet:    thos@softway.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: SESPC393@ysub.ysu.edu
Subject: WANTED: NLA part for Jaguar E-type
Organization: Youngstown State University
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 07:57:20 GMT

Needed a detent/kickdown cable for the automatic trans in a 1969 Jaguar
E-type 2+2. Part number C-26756/3. E-mail info to 00017210@192.55.234.10
or sduchene@macs.ysu.edu. Thanks
                                 Steve Duchene
                                Handson Engineering
                                  Yo. Ohio USA
From: rfrost@degas.jrc.flinders.edu.au (Richard Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: MAZDA 12A TURBO CALL 4 HELP
Date: 18 Aug 92 20:59:59 GMT
Organization: CSIRO/Flinders Joint Research Centre in Information Technology


I'm posting this message on behalf of my friend Craig who does not have
Internet access.  Go ahead Craig ...

I have just bought a MAZDA ROTARY 12A TURBO engine that was imported from
Japan.  This engine originally came in the TURBO COSMO & TURBO RX-7 Series 3.
It came complete with all sensors, auto. trans., air flow metering
box and most importantly BOTH the E.F.I. and emissions- control box.

The E.F.I. box is an analogue type made by Nippon Denso and works IN
CONJUNCTION with a Mitsubishi Electric digital emission-control computer.

The emission-control computer is used to prevent knock under certain
conditions, this prevents anyone from just removing all emmission control
devices, but presents me with a problem of how do I wire them both up and
then check that they are both working correctly.  Also is it possible to
remove any of these emission control devices on the engine?

Other than the above information, I haven't been able to get any details
on this engine.

                If someone has any info.on these cars and/or
                electronic boxes could they please email Richard below.

                                MANY MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE.
                                                                                
                                          Craig



--
.--------------.------------------------------------------------------------.
|Richard Frost | Internet Address :    rfrost@jrc.flinders.edu.au           |
.--------------^------------------------------------------------------------|
| Phone:       |    CSIRO/Flinders University Joint Research Centre in      |
|+618-201-3651 |Information Science and Technology Adelaide, SOUTH AUSTRALIA|
`---------------^-----------------------------------------------------------'
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 16:09:44 GMT

In article <16evibINN736@smli.Eng.Sun.COM> lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
>In article <1992Aug13.212200.2819@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>>In article <16eep0INN66i@smli.Eng.Sun.COM> lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
>>>>>>>I'm starting a new survey.
>>>>>>>in the sense of:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>   b). Easy repair...
>>>>>>>
>>>A '57 Chevy with a small block V8.  There is so much room in the
>>>engine compartment, you just climb in over the fender, get in there 
>>>
>>Even easier is the same car with an inline 6. I've owned a '55 Chevy w/ a
>
>I think you got me on that one.  With a 6 and no heater I bet you could
>stand on the ground beside the engine on the right side of the engine
>compartment if you needed to. 
>
Hmm. An interesting thought. I'll have to try that when I get home today :-)

BTW the heater is a minimal problem under the hood with only 2 hoses
under the hood. everything else is under the dash. The (rare) original
equipment air conditioners - that's another story. Fortunately, I don't have
one on my car.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: 89 Escort GT - EEC IV info needed
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 02:20:28 GMT

My '89 GT (1.9 EFI HO, EEC IV computer) always idles and runs rough with
premium gas..putting in cheap 87 octane gas smooths it right out and
makes it run faster.  Why?  Anything to do with the octane rod on the
TFI distributor?

Also, I've noticed hard driving tends to screw up the programming on
the computer (ie. running to redline, etc.).   Computer starts reporting
41 or 42 (fuel too rich, fuel too lean, etc.) among various other coodes.
Resetting the computer via power disconnect and then driving normally
over a month-long period reports 11 (no errors detected).

Unless I reset the computer after hard driving, it starts running really
rough under normal driving conditions, and the engine gets buzzy and irritating.  
A computer reset makes everything smooth out again.

Anyone know if there's any good third-party ROM chips to replace Ford's
poorly written engine management program for the Escort GT ('89 or '90)?

Any info would be appreciated.

Email to AJB8886@RITVAX.RIT.EDU or just post a reply.


Also, how the heck do you get rid of the "lurch" in the morning?  Every morning
starting the car and taking off INVARIABLY makes the car "lurch", even with
a warmup (30 sec), no matter how much you finesse the clutch or how high
you take the engine.
From: rsherman@next.com (Rick Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tires - Where to purchase?
Date: 19 Aug 92 00:26:57 GMT
Distribution: ba

Does anyone know where to buy inexpensive 4 wheel drive all terrain  
vehicle tires for my Mits Montero?

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jkonecn@andy.bgsu.edu (Joe Konecny)
Subject: Chevy truck stereo
Keywords: chevy
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 03:26:10 GMT

A friend of mine was at a car show a while back and he has a buddy who owns a 91or 92 Chevy truck.  This guy stopped by who told them that he could make his 
stereo sound louder for five bucks (factory, digital, cassette).  They said
cool and he got in.  He pressed several buttons got out and wouldn't tell them  what he did but the stereo was louder now at full volume.  Does anyone know 
what kind of trick he used?  I would love to know it.   
       Please E-MAIL me if you know what to do!   Thanks,
                                                       Joe

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 02:06:56 GMT

In article <4810@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert) writes:
>Hi all!
>
>I find it gravely humorous to find that the engine I just bought (1984
>Olds Omega w/ 2.8L V-6) has been referred to as the "Engine from Hell"...
>
>Anyhow, this thing is leaking oil.  It appears to leak around the valve
>covers, but we haven't really cleaned anything up to check for sure.
>
>My dad claims (from the "old days") that Chevy engines always leak oil
>at the valve covers.  Is this common on the 2.8 V6?  How much trouble 

The reason Chevy engines from the "good old days" leak oil at the valve
cover gaskets is that they got a bit too cheap with the cover bolts/screws.
My '55 has a 235  inline 6 has four - count 'em - 4  screws holding down the
valve cover. Ya gotta tighten it just right, preferably with some form a
gasket, to keep it from leaking.

Ease of replacement of the gasket(s) is entirely dependent on how much crap
you have to remove to get to them.

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: reducing understeer (and other questions)
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 22:08:00 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.232828.2470@nic.csu.net> vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu) writes:

>o  Can anyone tell me what the normal way of reducing understeer is? The
>   car in question is an 1985 Dodge Daytona with 2.2l Turbo engine and
>   front wheel drive. P195-50R15 tires. (It understeers annoyingly.. at
>   least compared to what I used to drive before)

what were you driving before?

front drivers will tend to have significant understeer built in;
even with suspension mods, they will understeer at the drop of a hat
if you enter a corner too fast and then give it too much gas in the
corner.  you can always try modifying your style; slow in/fast out
cures an amazing number of understeer problems.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Clutch problem
Keywords: clutch toyota
Date: 21 Aug 92 14:03:54 GMT
Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

In article <1992Aug19.205049.3999@gtephx.UUCP> georgej@gtephx.UUCP (Jefferson George) writes:
>In article <4571@rosie.NeXT.COM>, rsherman@sailer.next.com (Rick Sherman) writes:
>> Help,
>> 
>> I seem to be having a problem with my 83 Celica. Today I noticed the  
>> clutch go all the way to the floor (First symptom). I could not even put  
>> the car in gear. After popping the hood I noticed the cylinder next to the  
>> fire wall was empty (second symptom). Due to my limited knowledge with  
>> auto repair I figured, hey, I'll run down to the auto parts store, get  
>> some brake fluid (the cap indicated DOT 3), dump it in and off I go.
>> 
>> No such luck. Next I remember performing a brake job on an old car (71  
>> Toyota). After adding brake fluid I had to bleed the lines, to eliminate  
>> the air. Hey that worked. Now for the question:
>> 
>> Where do I bleed the air from a Clutch cylinder? I'm not even sure if the  
>> two are related. Does anyone have a clue? 
>> 
>  The air can be bleed at the slave clutch cylinder attached to the transmission
>  under the car.
>
>> After fixing this problem, I'll still need to figure out what caused the  
>> leak in the first place.
>> 
>  Had the same problem...  The fluid actually ruined the carpet on the driver's
>  side.   It was leaking past a seal inside the master brake cylinder.  I had to
>  take the master cylinder off and replace the seal...  The 1 piece part (the
>  partsperson referenced as a overhaul kit) was $12...  Took me 4 hrs to complete
>  the job. 
>
>  You can also buy a new cylinder for ~$40
>
>-- 
>Jefferson George                                    
>AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona 
>Inet: gtephx!georgej@enuucp.eas.asu.edu   
>UUCP: {ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!georgej 
No real disagreement but two more points: (1) If the fluid disappeared
but the pedal wasn't feeling bad before the fluid was gone, the slave
cylinder is more likely than the master cylinder. Not only that, its a
lot easier to get to and replace! Look for leakage there, where it is
mounted to a flange on the transmission bell housing casting. (2)
While you can bleed it, the Corolla I had (I replaced the slave
cylinder twice, never had a master cylinder problem, which is a slight
statistical reason for point (1) as well...) would bleed itself if
you just pumped the pedal up and down a lot. A hydraulic clutch differs
from the brakes in degree: The clutch slave cylinder moves a long way
each time you push the pedal, when compared to brake calipers or wheel
cylinders, so a greater volume of fluid moves up and down the line.
Apparently this can eventually get the bubbles back up through the
master cylinder and out, at least it worked on that Corolla.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
From: crs@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Charles Spillman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota Landcruiser
Date: 14 Aug 92 23:04:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpfcso.7750173
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA

> Mechanically the car's fine except for the speedo cable.  However,
> I need some music in the thing.  The previous owner had installed a 
> stereo, and I have speakers (2 6x9 ovals, and two cheap surface mounts)
> but no place to stick them.
> 
Where did he find to put it?  The stereo in my '65 is laying on the floor.
Of course, assuming yours is newer, some models actually had a dash.

> Summer configuration has to be a bikini top that barely keeps
> the seats dry in a rain storm, and no doors.  
> Not too many dry places to stick the speakers. 
> 
> So, where do people mount front and rear speakers in a landcruiser?
> 
> I was thinking of under the dash for the fronts, but the back speakers 
> ought to be in back, behind the seats.  Wooden enclosures of some kind? 
> 
I'm considering the small enclosures rated for outdoor use.  Not great quality,
but that helps solve the security problem :-).

> An ignition kill switch hidden under the dash or some other location
> seems like a good idea - what have people done with this?
> 
I've seen one inside the glove compartment on a Land Cruiser.  The only 
problem was when you had something heavy rolling around in there.  Life
could get exciting in a hurry.

Charlie Spillman
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 11:52:10 GMT
Subject: Re: 195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15
Organization: HP Singapore