HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rjw@nsa.hp.com (Richard Webber)
Subject: Re: Lenses for 4x5 cameras
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 00:11:18 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Networked Systems Architecture, Hewlett-Packard

In article <Rinne.7.0@ikw.uni-hannover.dbp.de> Rinne@ikw.uni-hannover.dbp.de (Frank Rinne) writes:

   I have a question,
   in Germany a company sells 4x5 cameras (ISTON WF45) for about
   400$. This camera can be used with lenses from 90mm to 250 mm.
   A similar system (TOYA 45 A) takes lenses from 65 mm.
   What are the differences between these systems?


   Frank

I am not sure about the specific models to which you refer.  But in general
terms the upper limit for focal length is determined by how far away from
the film you can get the lens when focusing on close objects.  This of course
depends on how close you want to focus! (e.g. whether you want to do macro
work).  This distance is often called the "bellows draw".  It will typically
be longer with a monorail camera and shorter with a field camera.
The lower limit for focal length is less subjective - it depends on how close
you can get the lens to the film in order to focus on infinity (something
most people want to be able to do).  Most 4x5 cameras I have seen will focus
a 90mm lens at infinity - many field cameras start to have problems at shorter
focal lengths.  The first solution is to use "bag bellows" in place of the
normal accordian style bellows - these permit the lens to be closer to the
film whilst still allowing swings and tilts.  The next solution is to use
a recessed lens board that mounts the lens further back from the front 
standard.  (If you use one of these be aware that it is sometimes possible
to focus your not-so-cheap Schneider Super Angulon 47mm through your 
somewhat-cheaper ground glass!)

Hope this was of help,

Richard
From: ellenb@diva.Berkeley.EDU (Ellen Boyle)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: epazote
Date: 12 Jan 1993 17:59:39 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: diva.berkeley.edu

I don't know where you can get the seeds, I bought my
starter plant at a local farmer's market - just beware,
it's somewhat weedlike.  My one epazote seedling grew into
a plant the size of a large tomato plant, and that was with
frequent harvesting.  I cut it way back (to a nub really) in 
the Fall because it got a strange rust on all the leaves and 
I noticed yesterday that its coming back, hardier than ever.

-Ellen
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts)
Subject: Re: Cure for Moles?
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:42:56 GMT


>moles
I've read that if you have a bird feeder (or seed source, or fallen leaves)
in the yard, that attracts earthworms -- and the moles come to feed on tem.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jdc3538@ultb.isc.rit.edu (J.D. Cronin)
Subject: What does "X days" on seed package mean?
Originator: jdc3538@ultb
Reply-To: jdc3538@ultb.rit.edu ()
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 15:54:51 GMT


Seed catalogs and seed packages give the number of days until
"something" for the plant in question.

Is this:
	Days from germination to harvest?
	Days from flowering to harvest?
	Days from planting to harvest?
	Days from something else to something else?

For example, one of the larger watermelons is listed at 100 days.
That just doesn't seem like a long time, but I'm sure we couldn't
grow them in upstate NY.  Any ideas?

Thanks...Jim

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan)
Subject: question about gypsum, road salt and rhodies
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1993 16:50:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

I have heard that gypsum can neutralize road salt.  Recently my
rhododendrons ("NOVA ZEMBLA", Canada-hardy and pretty tough) 
got a pretty bad dose of road salt -- they look OK
now but I worry that damage will show up this spring.  Can I do something
preventative, like sprinkle gypsum (from the nursery) over the snow and
mulch, so at least when everything really starts dissolving, the roots
will have some help? Will this throw my soil pH off? 

I do not understand the mechanism (chem) of gypsum's action in the soil.
The comments on the bag sound so overblown.  Does it do anything when
topically applied, or should it be mixed into the soil ... I wouldn't
do this to my rather shallow-rooted young shrubs.  There are 23 of them
and it's quite an investment.  Normally the road (really a lane) they
are on isn't even plowed much, and might get a light sanding or salting
once a winter.  The curbing and road grade send the runoff away from
the plants nicely, but THIS TIME, the salty snow got all plowed up
over the curb, several times.

Experience stories, please, and a word from a biochemist would be
helpful too!

Chris Sundaresan 

From: frank@calcom.socal.com (Frank Keeney)
Sender: UUCP@calcom.socal.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: House plants turning yellow
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 15:10:34 -0800

In a msg on <Jan 10 02:27>, michelle.lim wrote to All:

 m> Why do house plants start turning yellow?
 m> I was told I could be overwatering or undrwatering
 m> them.  How do you tell if you're over or under
 m> watering?  I water once a week.

It's possible that your plants need iron. I would suggest adding Ironite to the soil of indoor or outdoor plants that are turning yellow.

frank@calcom.socal.com

 * Origin: Infomania, Pasadena, CA 818.791.8680 v32b (1:102/960.1)
From: Alan.Holmes@brunel.ac.uk (Alan J Holmes)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Date: 4 Jan 93 15:19:37 GMT
Organization: Brunel University, West London, UK

In article <1htjioINN4pu@access.usask.ca> goldie@herald.usask.ca (Hugh Goldie) writes:
>I recently saw part of a Canadian news program from Winnipeg, about indoor
>composting with red worms.  I would be very thankful if someone could e-mail
>or post some details about this, particularly where to get worms and how to
>get started.  It is -37 degrees centigrade in Saskabush right now and my
>outdoor compost heap is probably working rather slowly... :-).

The worms used here in England are those used by fishermen, your should
be able to obtain them quite easily from any shop selling fishing
tackle.

Regards

Alan Holmes
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bae@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher)
Subject: Re: what to do about ground hogs
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 20:30:51 GMT

In article <1992Dec31.180247.6668@nsisrv.gsfc.nasa.gov> reidy@denali.gsfc.nasa.gov (Anne-Marie Reidy) writes:
>Hi.  I'm new to this newsgroup so please forgive me if this topic has been
>discussed before.  I moved into a new house last winter with a big sunny back-
>yard and had high hopes for a large garden.  Everything was going well until
>the ground hogs showed up.  They ate just about everything except the tomatoes
>and peppers.  I tried sprinkling cayenne pepper on everything to keep them
>away.  This worked for a while but the groundhogs soon figured out that the
>rain would wash the pepper away so that if it rained in the afternoon, by the
>time I got home from work they had eaten everything they could.  

Killing or live-trap-and-relocate doesn't work - there are always more
groundhogs ready to move into the vacated premises.

When I lived out in the bush, groundhogs were a real problem, especially
first thing in the spring when they were just out of hibernation and there
wasn't much for them to eat except my transplants.  What I finally came up
with was building the following flimsy fence around the most vulnerable crops:

Take some pieces of scrap lumber about 3 feet long (I used slabwood edgings)
and drive a nail partway in about a foot from each end.  Stick these into 
the ground around the area to be protected, nail side out.  Then take some
3 foot wide chicken wire and put it around the stakes, hanging it from the
nails.  Bend the bottom of the wire flat on the ground for 8 or 10 inches
outward from stakes.  The top of the wire will be about a foot higher than
the top nail on the stakes.  You may want to put a few rocks or other weights
on the folded out part.  You will need to cut the top and bottom of the wire
a bit at the corners.

When a groundhog tries to get at your veggies, it will be standing on the
wire and unable to push through or under it.  If it tries to climb the wire,
the wire will bend back over it and it won't succeed.

No guarantees, but it worked for me.  Groundhogs, fortunately, aren't very
bright.  

I'd roll up the wire and pull the stakes and store the lot out of the weather,
and it lasted for years.

Beverly Erlebacher
Toronto, Ontario Canada
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:8784 rec.aquaria:9866 sci.aquaria:1837
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:49:16 EST
From: <PQQ@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: pond underweater plants

In article <1993Jan3.191701.10898@cichlid.com>, aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess)
says:
>Underwater oxygenating plants are a pondkeepers myth -- they add scant
>oxygen to the water and in darkness actually compete with fish for oxygen.
>Water is oxygenated at the surface by absorbing atmospheric oxygen.
>Circulation and agitation will increase the amount of oxygen in
>water. Only grow plants if you like the way they look.

This is very misleading.  Many agressive plants (like milfoil) add
substantial oxygen to water bringing it to well above saturation.  We use
plants in microcosms to teach students about the goings on of things
aquatic, and 6 15cm long strands of milfoil in a 10 gal aquarium will
grow quickly,overcoming sediment oxygen demand,and raising dissolved
oxygen to 18+mg/L (well above theoretical saturation).  Of course, the
plants need a decent light source.
Dick Pratt BITNET:pqq@psuvm  INTERNET: pqq@psuvm.psu.edu
7 Ferguson Bldg.
Penn State
University Park, PA  16802   814/865-6942
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rmura@world.std.com (Ron Mura)
Subject: When to Prune Damaged Trees?
Organization: The World
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:41:05 GMT

We had a major snowstorm in mid-December and trees suffered
a lot of damage.  Should limbs that were broken and are still
half-attached be cut off now, or should I leave them as-is until
warmer weather?  (The tree in need of most attention is a hawthorn.)
-- 
- Ron Mura, Boston, Massachusetts              rmura@world.std.com
From: ehwd@sherman.pas.rochester.edu (Eric Howard)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Source for Holy Basil
Date: 5 Jan 93 14:17:23 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester

As an aside to the question of holy basil's scent, it actually
smells similar to cinnamon basil. I can't say as I'm overly 
fond of either of them. You might want to try them in pot pouri,
if the smell mellows out with drying. I certainly wouldn't use
either for cooking. 

Lemon, Anise, and Sweet basil all work very well for cooking,
and in pestos. 

Eric Howard
U of Rochester
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller)
Subject: Re: Catalpa tree
Reply-To: s5uagm@fnma.COM
Organization: Fannie Mae
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:52:01 GMT

In article <carolyn.726721729@bucket> Carolyn Peterson,
carolyn@bucket.rain.com writes:
>
>I'm looking at our cold, frozen, snowy yard and making plans
>for spring planting.  One thing I'm considering adding is a
>catalpa tree.  Are there any negative points that I should be
>aware of?  Is there a specific variety anyone can recommend?
>We live near Portland, Oregon.
>

	My neighbors on both sides have very large catalpa which shade my 
back yard.  They are far from easy to clean up after.  

	Although the flowers drop off in a reasonable amount of time, the 
pods are a constant headache, taking all year to drop off.  You will have to 
rake once a week to keep them picked up.

	The leaves are a problem because of their size.  Big leaves left on 
the ground kill anything under them and provide a haven for slugs.  ( But Ore. 
doesn't have a problem with slugs! :-) )  The leaves are also sticky and messy 
which increases the problem.

	We don't have catalpa worms, but all the catalpa in our neighborhood
are covered with a blackening blight or fungus.  This black soot like stuff
drops and covers everything under it.  Patio furniture needs to be washed 
weekly with soapy water because of the black film which accumulates.

	Instead of the catalpa, why not take a look at ( spelled phonetically )
Lilliodendron Tulipiphera, common name "Tulip tree"?

		- Andrew -
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.co-evolution
From: rthacker@bnr.ca (Rob Thacker local login)
Subject: Re: Wall-o-Water (for tomatoes)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ontario, Canada
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:42:11 GMT


In article <hank.726345839@well.sf.ca.us>, hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts) writes:
|> In <psmith.726343485@cunews> psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) writes:
|> 
|> >Wall-O-Water, Kozy Coats ... call them what you will.  I'm curious
|> >about these tomato plant outdoor wraps that are filled with water in
|> >order to allow earlier transplanting, and faster yield.
|> 
|> >Have people had good experiences with them.  In particular:
|> 
|> >1) how much earlier did you get a yield
|> 
|> >2) any precautions
|> 
|> >3) what else are they used on (eg: peppers, early melons, ...)
|> 
|> >Thanks in advance
|> 
|> My old friend Dick Fugett has used them for years and consistently has
|> the earliest edible tomato in his area.  I've crossposted this to alt.co-
|> evolution because it's something that CoEvolution Quarterly recommended
|> years ago and I even sold for a while.  Wall-o-water works very well to
|> extend the cold-hardiness.

I tried the wall-o-water on my tomatoes last year, and I wasn't
too impressed.  I did the following experiment:

   Three tomato plants were planted in the spring (in the Ottawa area).
   All plants were the "Siberian" cold-tolerant variety (around 55 days
   to maturity), and each was 8 weeks old and was flowering WHEN PLANTED
   outside.  Call the plants A, B, and C.  The weather was cool for
   April, and warm and dry for May, but the nighttime lows were never
   below -3 or -4 C.  The garden was dug and prepared the previous fall.

   "A" was planted mid-April, after trying to warm the soil up with the
   wall-o-water.  This didn't work too well, since there was still
   a little ice in the planting hole (too much frozen soil around the
   hole keeping it cool -- it may have been better to try and warm the
   entire garden with plastic or something).  The wall-o-water was used
   for "A", until late May.
   "B" was planted late April, in cool, but not frozen soil.  The
   wall-o-water was used on B until late May.
   "C" was planted early to mid May, when the soil had warmed up a
   little, and frosts were light.  C was NOT protected.

   C beared ripe fruit in mid June, with A and B bearing ripe fruit
   about two weeks AFTER that.  "A" did suffer some frost or cold
   damage despite being protected with wall-o-water, but it didn't
   seem to affect it bearing fruit at the same time as "B".  Note
   that earlier planting resulted in later fruit!  (Despite the
   plants being the same age when set outside.)  The cold April
   may have skewed (slightly) the results a bit more against
   wall-o-water, than an average April would.

I realize that one experiment isn't too significant, but IMHO it is
better to plant warm crops when the weather has warmed up.  If you
want to try to get earlier fruit, get special varieties and grow them
indoors a little longer (until they flower).

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: janez@base.bellcore.com (Jane Zysk)
Subject: Re: Cure for Moles?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 17:18:18 GMT

In article <98960001@misty.boeing.com>, karen@misty.boeing.com (Karen Robinson) writes:
|> 
|> Buy several (it will cost you some, but you MUST get ahead of the
|> moles soon or you will never defeat them!).  
|> 
|> Carefully set your traps IN THEIR MAIN RUNS (not necessarily near the
|> mounds).  Check traps daily.  If the traps spring without catching a
|> mole, reset and keep at it until you learn proper trapping technique.

	This sounds pretty labor intensive.  In our neck of the
	woods (NJ), moles eat grubs (aka Japanese beetle larvae).
	We bought a product called milky spore to kill the grubs
	(it's some kind of bacteria or something that kills grubs,
	but is otherwise ecologically friendly).  Just put the powder
	on your lawn (according to the directions, of course), and
	in a few weeks' time, no more grubs.  Once the grubs are gone,
	the moles move on to greener pastures.

	The milky spore is supposed to last some absurdly long time
	(20 years, I think they claim?).  We used it about 4 years
	ago and have had no trouble since.

	If you're really infested with Japanese Beetles, you can
	follow up in the summer with a Japanese Beetle trap.  It's
	also a quick, easy, and non-toxic method.

	Jane
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@quack.sac.ca.us (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: Glastonbury Thorn source?
Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'.
Date: 8 Jan 1993 01:55:51 UTC

In article <1993Jan7.170924.23880@casbs.Stanford.EDU> 
kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) writes:
>Does anybody know where I can get a Glastonbury Thorn tree (Crataegus
>Monogyna Biflora--flowers twice a year)?  I live near Stanford
>University in west Menlo Park, CA, and would like to plant one in my
>new garden unless it needs more winter chill than we get here (most
>years temperature doesn't go below 20oF; normal weather is above
>freezing most of the time).  None of my catalogs lists this particular
>Crataegus.  A possible substitute would be Crataegus 'Rosa Plena', but
>I can't find it in the U.S. either.  Both apparently are readily
>available in England but can't be shipped to California.
>Any leads and hints on cultivation would be welcome.

Cornucopia, ISBN:0-9628087-0-9, has:
Crataegus monogyna - Maytree, One-seeded hawthorn. Young, tender leaves
have a pleasent nutty taste, and are a good addition to a tossed salad.
The young buds are used in spring puddings. The flowers are mixed with
sugar and brandy and made into a liquer, and are also used in syrups and
sweet puddings. Fruits are eaten fresh or used for jellies and wines.
Dried leaves are brewed intoa tea. Europe, cultivated. A80M, G66, ...
A80M: Barber Nursery, 23561 Vaughn Rd, Veneta, OR, 97487, (503)935-7701,
Cat Free.
G66: Lawyer Nursery, 950 Highway 200 West, Plains, MT, 59859,
(406)826-3881, Cat Free.

No information on whether cultivar "biflora" is available.

Sunset Guide to Western Gardens, ISBN:0-376-03889-6, lists Sunset Zones
1-11, 14-17 for all Crataegus and says C.monogyna is sold as "Stricta"
in Western nurseries.

As for winter chill, you may be borderline if you are in Sunset Zone 16,
but not according to Sunset listing. Winter chill is accumulated hours
between the temps of 32 and 45 oF. Sunset Zone 15, much of Santa Clara
Valley floor, is around 800 hours. Zones 16 (Banana Belts on hillsides)
and 17 (Coastal Fogbelt, SF) are low chill, say 200 or less. North
facing hillsides accumulate more chill than eastern or southern
exposures.
From: mrh@centerline.com (Mike Huben)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Searching for Ipomoea leptophylla.
Date: 11 Jan 93 14:24:57 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.2.36

I. leptophylla (to the best of my recollection-- my Hortis III is at home)
is a native American, hardy bush morning glory.  I've wanted to grow it ever
since I photographed it growing wild in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

I could have sworn that I saw it in J. L. Hudson's catalog last year, but it's
not in this year's catalog.

Does anyone know where I could get some seed?  Does anyone have any experience
growing it?  Does anyone know how readily it can be hybridized with other
Ipomoea?

Mike Huben
From: ct076@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Michael T. Loos)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Currants and White Pines?????
Date: 13 Jan 1993 02:51:07 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


White pine blister rust exists in two phases of its life cycle on
eastern and western white pine and on sugar pine in California.  In 
opposite stages of its life it exists on currant, flowering currant and 
gooseberry

The western white sugar and whitebark pines are even more susceptible
to the blister rust than white pine, but in either case, robust dominant
trees are more severely attacked, with frail individuals lightly 
infected.  ...  Of the Ribes species black currant is the most susceptible
and dangerous.  Cultivated red currants are somewhat resistant, causing a minimum (OOOPS) of pine infection;  Viking and Red Dutch varieties are 
practically immune.  Wild gooseberries and skunk currant are highly
susceptible in the Northeast and so are western black currant, stink
currant and red flowering currant.  The greater susceptibility of Ribes
species the more spores are produced to inoculate pines, with 
proportionate damage.

This is copied nearly verbatim from the Westcott Plant Disease Handbook.

I would suggest that if you already have the trees, DON"T take the 
chance of infecting them.  I told my brother the same thing.

(My edition of the Westcott is third ed., has anyone got any different
information on the subject?)


Michael Loos  
These view are my own and all that jazz.
ct076@cleveland.freenet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: Advice wanted: Renewal of OG Magazine
Reply-To: dadams@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 8 Jan 93 14:42:26 CST


Ok so its the time of year to renew my subscription to Organic Gardening.
Now they really want me to renew you see so they keep sending me these 
reminders.  First they say that if I renew right away at $16.97 for 9 
issues I get this booklet entitled "All Time Best Gardening Secrets."
In another offer, if I renew now for $18.97 I get this free book on
making compost entitled, "Make Compost in 14 days."  Is this book worth
the extra $2?

---
--David C. Adams  Statistician  Cray Research Inc.  dadams@cray.com
___________________________________________________________________
       Old Sourdoughs never die.  They just ferment away.
From: arkdr@uniwa.uwa.edu.au (Dave Rindos)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: seed catalogs
Date: 5 Jan 1993 10:06:25 +0800
Organization: The University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: uniwa.uwa.edu.au

drmax@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Marianna Max) writes:

>Well this is probably a FAQ but here goes. I would like addresses, or
>better yet phone numbers of seed companies so that I can order their
>catalogs. I'm interested in both flower and veggie seeds, primarily though,
>things that can be grown in containers.

Check out the company listings in Stephen Facciola's _Cornucopia_
[Kampong Pub, Vista, 1990].  He gives *only* about 1400 sources [!]

Dave,
still overwhelmed by this book
Newsgroups: rec.gardens