HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ziggy@r-node.gts.org (Adrian Buss  Sys-Op)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electronic Fuel Injection
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:53:58 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Public Access UNIX Information System

Any one have any problems with an autochoke that stays on.  We suspect that
it could be a chip problem.  Because the choke stayes on the fuel is too
rich and washes the oil of the cylinder walls.

The problem could also be due to a problem with the pvc....Not exactly sure.

The vehicle is a 88 GMC pickup 4.3 v6 any halp would or Ideas would be
apreciated.

Thanks in advance 

adrian

-- 
ziggy@r-node.gts.org         | Have you rubbed noses with an Eskimo today??
ziggy@zooid.guild.org        | My inability to spell and gramatize are no
adrian@skypod.guild.org      | reflection on the GENERAL CANADIAN intelligence!!
From: denny@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Trueman Denny)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TURN SIGNAL FAILURE
Date: 12 Aug 92 21:23:40 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA

Thanks for the help.  I have a puller from replacing the ingnition switch
in the same car.  Sound like I should be able to handle the job.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Subject: Re: Vibration in drivetrain
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox)
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 13:40:57 GMT

tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes

> the vibration gets stronger
>and increases in frequency as road speed increases (most noticeable
>at 45 mph).  when i coast, the vibration goes away.  but as soon as
>i get on the gas, it starts to shake again.  my brother (who normally
>drives the car) says the problem appeared gradually, about a couple of
>weeks ago.  also, the car seems to have no power beyond 70 mph and
>can't go much faster now.  at this point, the vibration seems to
>disappear - but i think it is just that the frequency is so high that
>it isn't as noticeable any more.

Recently, I had a similar problem with my Jeep. . . I didn't have the vibration 
but I did have a similar loss of power at higher speeds.  It turned out to be a 
clogged catalytic converter.  If you have oil in your air clearner and/or PCV 
system, your exhaust system might be constricted.  That might also account 
for your vibration problem as the exhaust tries to pass the constriction.  

I'm certainly not an expert but who knows??

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
From: iseman@ravel.udel.edu (Stephen Early)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Subaru billows white smoke...
Date: 19 Aug 92 14:14:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bt8I7M.9Hp
Organization: University of Delaware

In article <1992Aug18.190511.17756@panix.com> nate@panix.com (Nate Clark) writes:
>Quick question:  I have an '85 Subaru with approx. 130k miles. 
>The car's in excellent condition, with one exception: it's just
>started billowing white exhaust.  I have it parked, and start
>it every week to let the oil circulate, etc.  Last week the car
>started fine, but then suddenly seemed to lose compression.  The
>engine killed immediately. I was able to restart the thing, but
>things still don't feel right.  Anybody have experience with this
>sort of thing?  Is it possible I'm just seeing the results of
>condensation in the engine (we did have a cold/hot/wet weather
>spell),

Possible, but not probable.  Let the car run until it gets to operating temp.
Let it cool and try again to see if you get the white smoke.  Don't forget to
check the coolant level first.

>or more likely there's a problem with a cracked cylinder
>or something?  Any ideas would be appreciated.
>

More likely it's a blown head gasket.  Since you don't drive the car, I doubt
it's been overheated which is usually what cracks cylinders & blocks.


>I was getting ready to unload the car, so two questions: how much
>would it take to repair this kind of ailment?  And assuming I don't have
>it fixed and just try to sell it, what's it going to cost me in 
>street value? 
>

The gasket costs about $10.00.  If you do it yourself, figure on spending about
6 hours if you've never done a head gasket before.  If you want someone else
to do the job, figure on $400.00 and up depending on the prices in your area.
This job is expensive due to the amount of labor involved, hence the incentive
to do it yourself.

If you do DIY, I suggest a Chiltons or other detailed car book.  It will give
you important stuff like torque values for the head bolts and the correct
sequence to tighten them so you don't warp the head.

Remember the rule of thumb...

white smoke is water
blue smoke is oil
black smoke is fuel (too much of it)

As far as should you fix the car before selling it; well that depends on what 
you can get for it fixed.  Only you know what condition the car is in.  You
should check to see what the same car is worth in your area and then make a 
decision.  There is no good answer to this question.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ingram@sequent.com (Bill Ingram)
Subject: Re: What is the phone number for JC Whitney?
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 23:58:57 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.181321.22173@kodak.kodak.com> kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:
%
%What is the phone number for JC Whitney?
%
%Pleas e-mail.
%
%Dave Kroth
%kroth@acadia.kodak.com
 My e-mail to you bounced, so I'll try this.
 # 1-800-541-4716
From: grad@sparky.drad.umn.edu (Jonathan Grad)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Gas smells (pooofffffff)
Date: 16 Aug 92 14:58:19 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota, Radiology Department

In article <15n438INN69q@agate.berkeley.edu> shyguy@ocf.berkeley.edu (David S. Shy) writes:
>I have a 1984 Volvo 240DL wagon w/ the B23 engine.  My problem
>is that after I fill the tank w/ gas (doesn't matter how much;
>however, problem is most pronounced when I fill the tank) there
>is this disgusting gas smell in the passenger compartment.  I realize
stuff deleted.

I have a similar problem with my Mazda GLC ('85). I smell gas in the
passenger compartment when the windows are rolled down, but not when
they are up, and not when the vent is open and the fan turned on.  I had
the gas pump replaced, to no avail.  I can smell the gas around the left
rear wheel well, neer the gas pipe. Also I can see what appears to be
a wet spot on the underside of the gas tank.  Note, I do not see a
puddle of gas under the car.

My questions:
1) How expensive is it to replace/repair the gas tank? 
2) should I have the tank repaired (i.e. sent out to a radiator shop
   and re-sealed) or is it better to replace the tank?
3) What other problems can cause this gassy smell?
4) How dangerous is it to drive the car? ( I know this is a tough
   one to answer)

Since I am concerned about my safety, and I rely on the car for my 
transportation I will be bringing it in Monday or Tuesday.  I would
appreciate any advice ASAP either here or via e-mail.  

If I get any responces I will post a summary of the results for others.
Thanks in advance.
													  -jonathan grad
													  grad@sparky.drad.umn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: cfaks@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Alice Sanders)
Subject: Re: $400 to fix oil problem in Cutlass?
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 00:34:53 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Eastern Illinois University

Sorry, there is a mistake in my most previous post.  The guy said he
replaced the 'valve gasket covers' , not the valve gaskets.  I am pretty
ignorant about this stuff.  My daughter knows less than I do.

Alice
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Fog Lights and Driving Lights
Date: 20 Aug 92 17:08:27 GMT
Organization: Auburn University Engineering

This may be a FAQ, but I couldn't find a FAQ for this group.  Is there one?

Who needs these?  Do they really make a big difference?  I would assume so 
but for what applications, exactly, i.e. I want to decide if I should get 
either of them.  Are the more expensive ones very much better than the ones 
down at the auto parts store?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mech's favs>> newer cars and computer gizmos
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 92 06:28:57 GMT

ira b ekhaus (ibe@world.std.com) wrote:

: Eventually , states will not allow the older. simpler cars on the
: road.  The DIYer's will have to confront the newer technology.  The

They'll have to pry my cold, dead fingers away from the steering wheel of my
smoky, carburetted, 2-stroke SAABs, because I won't give them up for any damn
POLITICIAN!

Or, any of my cars.  If they want to regulate the new stuff, they have that
priviledge (as long as we LET them), but if they try to come after cars which
were built decades ago, and tell us we can't use them, then they're asking for
problems.

So there.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden)
Subject: Re: GM pro's out there?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 19:30:38 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.145156.14154@dg-rtp.dg.com>, brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown) writes:
> In article <1992Aug18@loral.com> dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Daryl S Spano) writes:
> >
> >My speedometer gear to my turbo 350 tranny has 26 teeth.  Because I have
> >smaller tires, at 60 MPH my speedo reads 82.  Is there another speedo gear
> >with a couple more teeth that I could use.  The dealer is not very helpful.
> >
> >Just in case you are wondering, there is no problem with my speedo-I went
> >to very low profile tires, hence a change in my rolling circumference.
> 
> Doesn't take a GM pro.  Go to any speedo shop (look in yellow pages) and
> they will put your car on a roller and calibrate your speed.  Then, for
> a small additional fee, they will pop in the correct speedo gear.  Worked
> for me, I went to a little taller tire, speedo read about 5-6 mph slow, 
> switched the gear, works fine.
> 
> At a 60 mph correct, 82 mph indicated, you're going to have to go to a speedo
> gear with a *lot* more teeth.  They may not be able to put in a gear that will
> adjust ~35% by itself, but I'm not sure how much range there is to work with.
> 
> Randy

I was recently looking at one of the streetrod supplier catalogs which
had a listing for and adaptor the was simply inserted between the tranny
and the speedo.  the unit could then be adjusted to match ANY drive ratio to
get an accurate speedo reading.  sorry, but i couldn't find info on the unit.

Doug
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rhw@evolving.com (Robert H. Wiebener)
Subject: Re: Mail order tires
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 16:38:09 GMT
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.

In article <1992Aug11.145732.2861@dg-rtp.dg.com> brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Tall Randy Brown) writes:
>moseley@u.washington.edu (Steve L. Moseley) writes:
>>Any opinions on Tire Rack or other mail order tire suppliers? I can't 
>>tolerate the incompetence of the local Goodyear dealer, and I can get tires 
>>mounted and balanced cheap at the auto hobby shop at a military base.
>I ordered my last set of tire from Tire Rack, excellent service, selection,
>and price.  I plan to order my next set soon from them, if they have the
I agree, no complaints.  I think this is the only way to go and I will
surely use them again.

>get them mounted and balanced, and you can bargain at some places to get
>this for free if you buy a set of tires.  This usually just balances out
>their over-priced tires, but sometimes its worth it.  And for you, since
I just ordered a set of Dunlop D40/M2s for my Mustang.  The cost
break-down, as I see it:

   Mail Order               Showroom
   ----------               --------
   $   115.00               $ 155.00  Tires
		 6.00                   0.00  Mounting
		 7.00                   0.00  Shipping
		 6.00                   6.00  Balancing
		 0.00                  11.00  7% tax
   ----------               --------  
   $   134.00               $ 172.00  Total

So, the way it looks to me I saved $38.00 per tire or $152 for the whole
set.  The only question I have is about the warranty on defective tires,
where would I go to get the bad tire replaced?  Maybe I could have found
them cheaper locally, but I called 4 places and the 155 was the
cheapest.  Looks like a pretty good deal to me.  And the shipping only
took 4 days.  Interesting though, I got two tires one day and the other
two the next day.  UPS, when you care enough to send something that
doesn't have to get there.

-- robert 

Robert H. Wiebener, Jr.           |  Internet:     rhw@evolving.com
Evolving Systems, Inc.            |  Phone-Net:    (303) 969-3376
200 Union Boulevard, Suite 500    |
Lakewood, CO  80228               |  My opinions, no one else wants them.
From: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM speedometer interface
Date: 14 Aug 92 11:37:53 GMT
Reply-To: samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, jakeway@esseye.si.com (Jerry Jakeway) writes:
:I need information describing the speedometer
:interface between the transmission and the ECM
:on new GM trucks. Specifically, frequencies,
:voltages, line impedences, etc. Note, this

    I don't know if this will help but I owned a 1988 Beretta GT and
had the shop manuals (avail. for about $40) for the car.  This_ manual
contained info like pulses per mile and where the pulse generator was.

Not sure what your trying to do but you may not need to know all that_info.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mrmike@geta.life.uiuc.edu (Mike McCaughey)
Subject: 4WD Complete Rebuild
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 20:52:04 GMT
Keywords: Engine rebuild, drivetrain, bodywork, 4WD


Well, I'm thinking of taking the plunge...

 I have a 1979 Jeep Wagoneer which I bought very cheaply a few weeks ago. It has
a rebuilt AMC 360 V8 in it, and the rebuild was apparently not very well
done - poor performance, burns oil...it even blows oil into the distributor
cap. The necessary repairs to the engine/drivetrain, creeping
body rust, and the desire to have a semi-trick Jeep has caused me to
contemplate a complete rebuild. I have access to most tools and some skilled
labor (that will work for homebrew) to help cut costs. My contemplated work is

1) Engine swap. Anyone know if a long block Chevy will fit in a Wagoneer? I prefer
   not to move the firewall. Otherwise a smallblock. Performance/HD internals,
   blower or turbo, headers etc.  Although there is no inspection where I live,
   I'd like to try to meet legal emissions in IL.

2) Transmission. Swap out the TH400 for a 4 spd auto with overdrive.

3) Transfer case. Swap out or rebuild QuadraTrac unit for a part time system.

4) Suspension. 4" lift, dual shocks all around, 3" body lift; sandblast and paint
   frame.

5) Interior. New front buckets, full roll cage, custom dash and console, custom
   tool boxes/storage built into areas around wheel wells; stereo.

6) Exterior. Replace rusted lower rear quarter, full paint. Tube bumpers 
   w/ storage, winch mounts; swing-away spare and can carrier; lights.

Although I've never rebuilt a 4WD before, I realize that this is a major undertaking
and have budgeted about $8k and 2 years for the project. This is, of course,
insane...but there is something appealing about the hapless ugliness of the old
Wagoneer.

My questions for the 4WD gurus on the list are:

1) Anybody have any experience with engine swaps they'd like to share?
   Ever deal with the aftermarket adaptor mfgs? Will a big-block fit?

2) Do you have recommended suppliers of aftermarket parts?

3) Will the increased torque of a larger, supercharged engine turn my stock
   drivetrain into scrap metal?

4) Should I sandblast the entire body before painting (new paint will be
   different color) or just hand sand to prep it?

In short, any comments, advice or ideas are welcome. Suggestions that I
should spend my money on analysis instead of the Jeep will be ignored,
even if correct.

Thanks!
mrmike

---------------------- <include std.disclaimer > -------------------------
* Internet: mrmike@uiuc.edu                  * "I'm not a liberal, so I  *
*           mrmike@geta.life.uiuc.edu        *   have a poor grasp of    *
* Snail:    Ribosomal RNA DB Project         *   things I know nothing   *
*           131 Burrill Hall                 *   about."                 *
*           University of Illinois           *                           *
*           407 S. Goodwin Urbana,IL 61801   *     - P. J. O`Rourke      *
*                                            *                           *
------------- Happiness is a warm gun.............I'm the NRA ------------
From: lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recommendations for Mini Van
Keywords: Plymouth Voyager/Dodge Caravan, air conditioning
Date: 22 Aug 92 08:50:10 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos
Organization: /etc/organization

In article <1992Aug21.181616.8793@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> rrodabau@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Ronald D Rodabaugh) writes:
>
>        In the Spring of 1989 my parents purchased a 1989 Plymouth Grand
>Voyager SE to replace our 1977 Pontiac Catalina Grand Safari. What a great
>minivan the Voyager has turned out to be! Here are some facts you may not know
>about the Voyager as compared to its Ford and Chevy counterparts:
>making the Voyager easily garagable.
>      2) The Voyager is front wheel drive, whereas the Ford and Chevy are rear
>wheel drive. Of course, this means that you cannot tow as much in the Plymouth,
>but if your pregnant wife and son are the primary passengers, then towing is
>not a priority anyway.

I have to admit that I've never driven aChrysler minivan, but my experience
with a 1990 Chevy Lumina APV and a 90 Chevy fullsize passenger van was
that the fullsize van rode much better than the APV, was much more comfortable,
and best of all, didn't have the gawd-awful front wheel drive torquesteer.

>
>      2) Chrysler has the absolute best service on their warranty. With 7/70
>protection STANDARD on the Voyager, you can rest assured that problems will be
>taken care of, if they arise.
>
I've got an 89 Jeep Wrangler with yhe 7/70 Powertrain and body rust-through
warranties.  I can assure you that Chrysler is not happy to cover warranty
problems, and that the $150 or $200 per visit deductible can really add up.
They are supposed to waive the deductible for repeat repairs, But I've had
to get a lawyer several times to get those dedecuctibles waived (for
repairs that had been made before under warranty).  Chryler is also notorious
for refusing admit theres anything wrong with a vehicle.  I have yet to
find a Jeep dealer who will agree with me that there is something wrong
when my Jeep consistantly stalls under braking.  I also recall hearing several
stories in this newsgroup a while back from Caravan owners with the dreaded
Mistubishi V-6...  several people had rods start knocking just before the
warranty was up, and Chrysler consistantly refused to make any repairs
under warranty until it actually threw a rod, which in each case finally
happened just after the vehicle was out of warranty.  Chrysler then refused
to make any repairs under warranty, since the warranty expired.
Ever tried to get thru to you local Chrysler service Zone Office?  Its
easier to get thru to a radio station giving away a bundle of cash.


>     -David Rodabaugh                       1 (614) 299-8588
>     Senior, Mech. Eng.                     rrodabau@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
>     Ohio State University

Jon Lusky
lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu
Junior, Mech Eng.
SAE student member
Someone who will never own another Lee Iacocca vehicle.
From: msl30@ccc.amdahl.com (Michael Lucash)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How is the pittman arm/ steering bas connec
Date: 22 Aug 92 13:04:32 GMT
Reply-To: msl30@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Michael Lucash)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <9208201655.AA03126@sarse.CFSMO.Honeywell.COM> mrein3@CFSMO.Honeywell.COM (Matt Rein #3) writes:
>BTW, how much did the new gear cost?  Around here the cheapest I can ever
>find is $50 and you gotta look hard for that.  The gear on my '71 Monte
>pees out the fluid as fast as I can dump it in.
>
When I had to replace the steering box on my 1980 Cutlass we went down to the
junkyard and picked one up for $25.  Took about 2 hours to pop it in but we
did have a few problems.

You might consider buying new hoses which is what I had to do because the old
ones were frozen in their treads.

                    Mike

Also, be very careful if you have to use force, read hammer, to get the steering
box on to the steering shaft.  The shaft is meant to crush on a hard impact so
you wouldn't want to do that.
From: ecrjbruce@economics.adelaide.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Premium gas to clean engine?
Date: 20 Aug 92 11:00:07 GMT
Organization: Economics, University of Adelaide

In article <1992Aug14.015818.18321@leland.Stanford.EDU>, eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:
>>
>>I am perfectly aware of the fact that using premium gas in an ordinary
>>engin won't improve performance, but my repair manual ("How to Keep
>>Your Honda Alive...", an excellent book BTW), says that it's a good
>>idea to occasionally fill up with premium. They say this will clean 
>>up the engine (from carbon deposits?). So, what does the net think about
>>it? 
>>

Over here (Australia) one of our more serious car magazines (Wheels) took the
new Volvo for a test drive and found it impossible to get the car running 
anywhere near the quoted factory performance.  Then they read the small print
and found that these figures only applied if premium unleaded was used.  They 
tried it and Voila! instant power gain of something like 10-20 horses.  I
realise this won't apply to all cars but does show that in certain engine
conditions this sort of fuel is exactly what is claimed.

regs

Rob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fitchitt@wam.umd.edu ()
Subject: Re: improved Anti-theft technology
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 19:43:59 GMT

Yea, the club is basically a device to get the thief to try the next car..

Problem is on my block about 50% of the cars have 'em, I expect the number
to go up (that's why I'm moving, but not far enought to really matter)

So the detterent effect becomes weaker with every new one sold.

I briefly toyed around with the idea of finding out where/if you could buy
a "boot". It would be a bear to deal with... but with two of 'em, (one in
front, one in back) only one of those flatbed trucks with a winch could
grab your car...

Of course my car wasn't worth enough to go to this lenght, but I always thought
it would be a great anti-theft device. After all, its designed to make it
impossible/very difficult for the OWNER, with a KEY to move it.

Arc welders would take car of this protection as well...

As for the electronic protection, all those are by definition useless.

As you have to provide and "overide" for morons who lose keys, lock 'em in,
etc... you are providing a easy way to steal the car...

Thieves can take anything, you just have to provide a sour enough target
to get 'em to move on.... This eventually becomes leads to a case where the
people who can least afford the theft/insurance are most susceptable.

Interesting story on the Infinity Q45. Parking authorities tried to tow one
of these with parking brake on/in park. They COULD NOT get in for two hours
(this was in NY where towing guys are pretty adept at getting into cars)

A crowd gatherd to cheer the car on... At some point, they brought in a
flatbed towtruck with 10,000 lb winch, and DRAGGED it up onto the truck.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech