HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ravalent@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Mounting tires--ride control process
Keywords: scam?
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 10:42:53 EST

In article <1da3rfINN853@cairo.crhc.uiuc.edu> peercy@crhc.uiuc.edu (Mike Peercy) writes:
>I just ordered some tires from Tire Rack.  One of the places
>I'm thinking of having mount them recommends something called
>a "ride control process", especially for alloy wheels, for
>$6.50/tire.
>
>The place is high priced for mounting, so I probably won't go
>there.  But now I'm curious if anyone else has heard of "ride
>control process".  The gentleman at Tire Rack never had.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Mike Peercy
>peercy@crhc.uiuc.edu

Sounds like regular spin balancing to me.  BTW, if they
ask you if you want the weigths on the inside of the rim,
say no.  THis type of balance yields a less than perfect
(if there is such a thing) balance.

-> Bob
  ----> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zzang@stat.ufl.edu (zzang)
Subject: Dirty spark plug, how to fix?
Originator: zzang@manta
Organization: University of Florida
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 20:52:06 GMT

Hello,
my car is an '80 Subaru 1600.
it runs great except one problem:
the spark plugs will get dirty (carbon deposits)
after a couple of months driving.
so I have to clean them from time to time,
otherwise it will misfire and the engine
will loss power.
I checked the manual, and it says the dirt is
caused by over-rich fuel mixture. so I took
the car to the dealer to have the fuel/air
adjusted.(I can't do this myself.:-{)
but the dealer said to me that the car is
normal, and the dirt is because the carburetor is
too old, and the gasket seals are losen.
and the dealer suggested me to leave this alone.

is the dealer's suggestion right?

Thanks in advance!

-- 
Zhuo Zang[~{j0WA~}]
Department of Statistics
University of Florida            Email: zzang@stat.ufl.edu
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Date: 8 Nov 92 04:09:06 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <Bx91Ev.91p.1@cs.cmu.edu> rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
>In article <Bx75IJ.n3A@mail.boi.hp.com> wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:
>>I think it is more of a safety problem than anything else.
>
>>Some states do not allow you to be coasting around in neutral and from an
>>emergency maneuver standpoint being in neutral a lot can compromise your
>>ability to react quickly.
>
>On an automatic car, can one shift into drive while the car is moving?  Would
>it damage the transmission?

I don't know what you mean, but if you're talking about shifting into
Drive with the car moving and the engine _running_, probably not.
Your typical auto is fairly robust in most cases, and shouldn't object
too strongly to this.

HOWEVER .. there is a SERIOUS problem with coasting the car with the
engine OFF, in any gear.  The oil (ATF) in an automatic is circulated
by a pump driven from the input side of the torque converter, i.e.
running off the engine.  If the engine is not running then there is no
oil circulating, and if the driveshaft is turning there are bearings
and gears being ground to bits.  If any of these bearings should seize
there is a good chance the driving wheels will lock up BEYOND YOUR
ABILITY TO UNLOCK THEM and cause you to go skidding off the road.

Check the fine print in your owners' manual under "Towing
Instructions" -- the manufacturer will often specifically state that
if the car is to be towed, the driveshaft(s) must be removed to avoid
the aforementioned damage to the transmission.  This does not apply to
manual transmissions, simply because they use splash lubrication and
very viscous (and very smelly!) oil that adheres to the gears.

-- 

==============================================================================
A hastily reconvened  panel of Judges  accepted  the decision  by four leading
child psychiatrists  that the boy's mind was seriously unbalanced and that his
work  was a product of an  "extremely unwholesome attitude  towards life,  his
God and Country".  Bostock was recommended for psychiatric treatment following
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: What is current wisdom on rotating tires (tyres)?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:05:41 GMT

In article <Bx7n5p.1Go@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar) writes:
>In article <1992Nov4.205441.26521@cbnews.cb.att.com> shahrukh_merchant@att.com writes:
>>I have heard two schools of thought on whether tires should be rotated:
>Here is how it was explained to me. Most of this is coming right out of a
>book that is called "Chilton`s Easy Car Care", so I assume it to be
>factual. 
>
>
>If your car does not have radial tires, you should use the second method.
>In other words, rotate the tires diagonally.
>
>If your car does have radials, only rotate front to back. I will just quote
>the book for this one...
>
>"There are certain exceptions to tire rotation, however. Studded snow tires
>should not be rotated, and radials should be kept on the same side of the
>car (maintain the same direction of rotation). The belts on radial tires
>get set in a pattern. If the direction of rotation is reversed, it can
>cause rough ride and vibration."
>
>So there it is...
I'll go along with the studded snow part, but....

>
>BTW this book was written in 1985, so it is reasonably current.
>
Unfortunately, not current enough. Back when I had my first set of radials,
I was warned not to do the diagonal rotation, lest the belts shift and self-
destruct in short order. I followed that advice out of dread for several
years. 

A few years ago, I went into a tire store and saw they were recommending
the diagonal rotation on radials. I said "what is this?????". they said yea,
what had been widely circulated about not criscrossing the tires wasn't
valid. I've been crisscrossing radials for about 5 years now with no ill
effects.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: sl0mv@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Putting a 5spd Manual in a `61 Chevy Apache 10
Date: 10 Nov 92 01:29:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: cc.1992Nov9.192903.60581
Distribution: rec
Organization: Utah State University

In article <YOUNG.92Nov6103420@kuwait.whizkids>, young@whizkids (Mark Young) writes:
> 
> I am interested in putting a 5spd manual transmission in a `61
> Chevy Truck.  I currently have a 3spd manual which causes the 
> truck to run at high RPM's during highway driving.  I would 
> love to convert to a 5spd manual.  I suspect that the 5spd 
> manuals that Chevrolet has been putting in there full sized
> trucks the last few years might work (with a few mods).  Can
> anyone tell me where to start.  How can I determine bolt pattern,
> transmission length, etc.  Are there books that might give 
> me adequate cross reference data?  Has anyone seen an article 
> concerning this mod?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark Young
From: dpark@Bonnie.ICS.UCI.EDU
Subject: Maxima Power Antenna
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: 8 Nov 92 03:07:22 GMT


Just recently, my Nissan Maxima 1987 power antenna has been having trouble.  It will only go down if I gently assist it.  Otherwise it gets stuck.  I tried cleaning it and slightly greased it with WD-40.  No luck.  What are my options.  Does anyone know how much it would cost to replace it.  Or any suggestions on how to fix it.

					Douglas Park
From: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Spooner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Repeat: Jeep Idle Problem & Lift Questions
Date: 12 Nov 1992 15:31:00 GMT
Organization: Badges . . . We don't need no stinking badges.
Reply-To: DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Spooner)
NNTP-Posting-Host: lockheedmac8.larc.nasa.gov

 Heres the problem . . . 

1988 JEEP Wrangler, 258 I6 Engine, Carburetor

The engine is having trouble idling without stalling.  When at idle, 
the engine tends to surge, i.e..  runs smooth for a second, then 
starts to die for a second, then repeats.  High speed engine 
performance is fine.  Ive pulled the spark plugs & cleaned and 
re-gapped them.  Ive done a visual inspection of the PCV system.  
I may have a problem here, there is a solenoid in the PCV line 
between the valve cover and the carburetor.  Every time the engine 
starts to die, the solenoid clicks, either opening or closing the line.  

Does anyone have any wisdom on this problem.  Id appreciate any and all 
help.  

On an unrelated note, Im thinking of lifting my JEEP using extended 
spring shackles on the front and rear.  Ive been told that doing 
this will adversely change the drive shaft angles, at the transfer 
case and at the differential, resulting in excessive vibrations.  Ive 
checked my shop manual, and it describes how to measure these angles, 
but it doesnt give any specifications.  What are the limits on these 
angles and what do I need to be concerned with if I do change these 
angles.  Im considering this method of lift for one reason . . . $$$.  

Thanks for the help . . . Dave

________________________________________________        
        If we were not crazy, we would go insane.
        If we could not laugh, we would go insane!     J. Buffett
________________________________________________
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Taurus engine out of cont
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:59:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


DUH!@#Recently (last few months now), without warning, and according to no
   !@#particular pattern, the engine will rev itself up to 4000 rpm or so and
   !@#stay there.  Sometimes it does this on starting, whether warm or cold,
   !@#sometimes (thankfully less often) when underway.  Sometimes turning it
   !@#off and restarting cures it, sometimes not.  It is not the cruise
   !@#control, and I have checked all vacuum hoses, sensor wires, and checked
   !@#for air leaks in the intake system.  The local Ford service guy told me
   !@#that they had a problem like this some time ago with this engine, and
   !@#that the problem was some multiple relay box that sits on top of the
   !@#radiator. I checked it, and there was nothing outwardly wrong, like
   !@#loose connections.  He explained nothing further, other than suggesting
   !@#that I bring it in for a test of the ECU.  My questions:

Check the connection to the Idle Control Motor on the side of the
injector box...if the car has weak or bad motor mounts the harness tends
to rub in back...also examine the motor itself...high possibility of bad
Idle Control motor itself.
Thats my two cents!
                                                        Don






DUH!@#Thanks,

DUH!@#Dan

 * SLMR 2.1a * I'm too poor to have a TAG!
                                                                                                               
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob@sccsi.com
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Underdrive pullys - Any experiences?
Date: 11 Nov 1992 14:23:09 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <clogan.03op@redorc.chi.il.us> clogan@redorc.chi.il.us (Sigmond Freude) writes:
>
>Underdrive pulleys make a hella lot of difference. I have serpentine underdrive
>pulleys that i put on my boss 302 ranger(yes i have a ranger with a 302 in it)
>bit thats another story. Anyway underdrive pulleys will increase your horses
>about 25-30. You will gain anywhere from .3 to .8 on a quarter mile too. so if
>you are thinking of going with them go ahead!!

Huh? 25 to 30HP??? From where? Not from the alternator, if the battery is 
healthy it should be less than 1HP, not from the cooling system, not
from the power steering, you got a 50KW generator up there or something?
I can see *maybe* 5 or so HP at a cost of cooling and charging capacity, but
not 25 to 30HP.  

 

--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM Truck Differentials
Date: 4 Nov 92 20:12:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Nov3.134617.23499@bnr.ca> maika@bnr.ca (Jan Maika) writes:
>
>Well here is one for all you GM truck owners out there. ...
> Is this a common problem with this style of truck? 
>      
This is the same 8.5" ring gear setup that has been in production in
GM from about the time I was born.  It has a good track record.

Any of a wide variety of things could have gone wrong with it.  It it
is a limited slip unit, they like to be maintained a bit.  If it ran
out of oil, it might seize.  

Replacement parts include any passenger car RWD GM 10 bolt setup 
produced from the mid sixties to 1981, and all 1500 series trucks 
since then.  ( Ignoring spline count issues and those odd early 70's
Olds 10/12 setups. )


-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: cmmiller@iastate.edu (Chad M Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Octane rating in fuels
Date: 12 Nov 92 06:44:46 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxLC2n.482
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA

I was just wondering how the different grades of gas affected cars.
I'm driving a '79 Dodge Aspen and am wondering if it really makes a
difference as to how much octane is in the gas or not.

Please reply via email:   cmmiller@iastate.edu

Thanks a lot.

Chad
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: water/gas mix
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 07:17:42 GMT

Donald Wendel (donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com) wrote:
: In reference to the recents posts 'bout the gas/water/soap mix..
: I tried my little experiment:
..
: tank! After this test I tried another batch using Ultra Tide w/
: bleach(tm) I couldn't get the Tide to disolve at all. Anyone else have
: any ideas for a mixing agent. We tossed around the idea of Chlorine
: Bleach but decided against it. ( probably toxic )

I'd be really careful at this point.  It sounds like you could be 
getting pretty close to mixing up something that could produce toxic
gasses, etc.  I don't think that random mixing is the way to proceed
here.

It might be a good idea to check out rec.pyro and see what they think
over there about safe combinations of chemicals to mix with your
petrol.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: new required dyno emissions tests / Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 92 22:13:25 EST

In article <ELI.92Nov6123038@regal.cisco.com> eli@cisco.com (Steve Elias) writes:
>ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
>
>Bob, one of the reasons the EPA is forcing us to burn this new fuel in
>order reduce pollution, is because of people like you who sleaze past
>the emissions test.  

    I resent your implication that I am "sleazing" past the test. Let
me explain; take a 85 Chevy Cavalier.  Fuel Injected 2.0 litre engine.
It has 150k on it.  Unfortunetly, the fuel algorythems will not allow
for a large amount of engine wear.  The first time the car failed, 
a new cat, 02 sensor, and computer was installed.  I cleaned the 
injector, and changed the plugs.  The air pump is installed and working.
   The car, however, passed the HC with flying colors; it would not
pass the CO.  Two other mechanics tried to fix it.  THey could not.
The car gets about 20 mpg in town, and 30+ on the highway.  No smoke,
et al.  Now, it has passed.  
   Let me guess, you would love to crush all those cars that won't pass,
right?  Well, I've got a 71 Cutlass that passes emissions cleaner than
a 85 police-package Caprice.  It's a matter of the person who owns the 
car.  A poorly maintained Honda will emit more emissions than my 350
V-8.  Change the oil, use electronic ignition, and keep the carb 
tuned properly.  That's all.  

>hopefully, the new required dynamometer tests will
>be able to catch you next time you try sleazing out of getting your
>motor tuned properly!

   Acutally, I'd love to have my car dyno'd for $17.

And one more thing; If your're SO concerned about the environment,
  why don't you go find out why there are almost no emissions on
  smoke-belching diesels.   

>/eli

--> Bob
   ----> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sudden and Drastic Drop in Gas Mileage
Date: 14 Nov 92 02:03:51 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA

In article <721447317.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP>, Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
|> 
|>  VS> I will be switching gas stations to rule out bad gas.  However, I can't 
|>  VS> see how
|>  VS> the car can start drinking the gasoline by gallons (last 300 miles) and 
|>  VS> not
|>  VS> change its performance or driveability by an iota.  Gas is not leaking 
|>  VS> and it is
|>  VS> not being siphoned off.  Nothing else can explain this drop.
|> 
|> First check your odometer against mile markers to determine its error. It is
|> possible you have a problem in your instrument or its drive that can cause it to
|> indicate fewer miles than you have actually travelled.

Good suggestion...  I would also check for a vacuum leak.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate)
Subject: Re: Jump-starting Seized Engine: POSSIBLE?
Keywords: Jumpstart, lubrication, seized, overhaul
Organization: CDAC, WA
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 22:40:26 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.090732.13323@u.washington.edu> tomy@carson.u.washington.edu (Thomas Tucker) writes:
>
>I fear not, but perhaps this kind of thing is not uncommon;
>after all, there must be many who leave their cars for one
>reason or another until the battery discharges and the
>lubrication left from its last run finally fails.
>
>What do these poor unfortunates do?
>Tom Tucker
>tomy@u.washington.edu

  I would suggest that you clean out the spark plugs, recharge the
battery by an external source. Then take it to the top of a hill and
while it is rolling down, engage the engine. Massive amounts of
momemtum will be generated (more than the stater can) and kick the
engine to a start.  Make sure that the ignition key is in the "ON"
position, of course. 
 
Just a thought....
-S

From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 11:39:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Coasting with auto tranny's...
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:

|In article <Bx91Ev.91p.1@cs.cmu.edu>
|rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:
|   On an automatic car, can one shift into drive while the car is
|   moving?  Would it damage the transmission?
|
|You would really kill your transmission if, when shifting from drive
|to neutral, you overshot neutral and hit reverse!

That's if you press that little button on the shifter.  On the few times I
drive an auto, I have to remember not to press that button except when
engaging reverse or moving from neutral to park (when stopped of course :-)).

On column shifts, I believe you have to pull/push to go from neutral to
reverse and beyond -- at least on the autos I've driven.

lawrence
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 6 Nov 92 10:03:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> You may be right, but this does not explain why before the alchol
-> based fuels were REQUIRED, it usually cost several cents less.
-> If it cost less before, why does it cost more now.  I see it as

 The gas at the pump is, in some areas, almost 40% tax over the base
price of the fuel, once you add in the Federal, state, and local bites.
It's possible they're only taxing the *gasoline* content and not the
alcohol content.  Depending on how the rates go, you'd come out cheaper
by mixing more-expensive additives.
                                                                                     
From: pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 00:06:11 GMT
Subject: Electronic ignition?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 I am seriously thinking about buying an older Spitfire. Now, after all the
 laughter has subsided, I have a few questions.

  I have been advised to replface the stock ignition system with an
  electronic ignition. Does anyone have experience doing this? what 
  brand/system did you pick, and why?

  Does anyone have any particular experience with this car? Anything to 
  look out for, or things that should be replaced prophylactically?
  I'm looking at MkIII or later.

  Also, I was thinking of replacing the stock dual carbs with a single
  Weber carb. Any experience doing that?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: lott@egr.msu.edu (Jennifer Lott)
Subject: What is a transfer case (Chevy S10 Blazer, 2.8L)
Organization: Division of Engineering Research
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 13:41:28 GMT

I'm posting this for a friend so don't reply to me.  Her address is below.


I took my blazer in for an oil change and I was told that I needed to 
replace the transfer case fluid and differential fluid.  They offered to do 
it for $48.00, but I told them I'd wait.   Is this something that can be 
done at home or should an experienced mechanic do it?  Why does this need 
to be done?

Any information you could give me would be appreciated.  My address is below.

Thanks,

Kim Crozier
crozier@frith.egr.msu.edu
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Does anyone change PS fluid?
Date: 9 Nov 1992 00:39:18 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

My Supra has more than 100,000 miles on the original power
steering fluid.  It looks kind of black!  The factory manuals
say nothing about ever changing PS fluid as scheduled maintenance.

Anyone want comment?  Also, how do you change it?  As far as I can tell
the only way to change it is too pull off a hose, yuck!


-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech