HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Source for Push Lawnmowers
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:23:08 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

You know, the manual, human-powered reel variety.
Who sells them mail-order?  How much do they sell for?
I've heard of a company called "Great Lakes" Mower, or
something like that... my local hardware store says they
sell for about $75, but are out of them until spring.  

If anyone knows what city or state "Great Lakes" is in,
I'll try to call them directly.

Has anyone used one of the newer push mowers- the ones using
aluminum and plastic vs the old ones made of cast iron and lead?
And has anyone seen any with paths wider than 16" or 18"?

	Dave

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: beb@pt.com (Bruce Buck)
Subject: Re: Is coffee good for a compost pile?
Organization: Performance Technologies, Incorporated
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1992 12:22:03 GMT

In article <1992Sep22.172441.15022@vax5.cit.cornell.edu> dq7j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
>I'm in charge of making coffee for a large group of people every week and
>usually there is a large surplus of it at the end of the meeting (I'm working
>on reducing the surplus). My question is: can I use this leftover coffee for my
>compost pile ? (unfortunately I don't drink coffee at home). I've read that the
>solid waste is good for the compost and I'm already using it but I haven't read
>about the liquid part.

I routinely dump leftover coffee, the grounds and the filter into the compost
heap.  I'm of the opinion that anything remotely organic can go into the pile.


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Subject: a sick gift
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 04:15:31 GMT


My neighbor gave me a cala lily with aphid looking things all over it. What
should I do? (Don't say "get a new neighbor".)
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Help on greenhouse-like structure to house above ground pond.
Date: 1 Oct 92 16:26:39 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Originator: howardr@hplsdum.col.hp.com

I would like to build a solar heated building to house above ground
fish ponds (cattle tank etc).  

It would seem that a building such as this would have much in common
with a green house: high humidity, insulation requirements etc.

The building must: keep the water from freezing in the winter,
not allow the water to get too hot in the summer, prevent the
water temp from changing too quickly or cool to far at night,
and allow enough light to grow pond plants.

The building will contain at least 1000 US gallons of water which
should provide some thermal mass.  

Is this group a good place to ask for help which such a project?

I will post more details if anyone expresses interest.

Howard
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Control of fungus gnats
Date: 6 Oct 92 20:11:52 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <Oct06.221848.14429@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU>, lauras@picea.CFNR.ColoState.EDU (Laura Stump) writes:
> I've been reading the comments on how to eradicate fungus gnats
> (a common problem in the soil of some houseplants), and no one
> has yet mentioned the much less toxic alternative to Malathion
> that I have successfully used for these pests.  A strain of
> bacillus thuringiensis (a biological larvicide) has been
> developed specifically for fungus gnats, and it is sold under the
> trade name of "Gnatrol" by organic garden product companies (I
> think we ordered ours from Gardens Alive).  I highly recommend it
> ... I can't see using something like Malathion at all if there is
> an effective, reasonably-priced, organic alternative, and this
> particularly applies to plants that hang around inside the house
> with me!  I can supply an address for ordering this product upon
> request.

Repotting the plants into fresh, clean potting soil (and a quick rinse
in a mild detergent solution) will also stop the fungus gnat problem
most of the time (esp. if you don't return to overwatering).

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: breland@mcc.com (Mark Breland)
Subject: Re: How to get rid of mint plant
Keywords: roots, yank, kudzu
Organization: MCC, Austin, TX
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 13:43:01 GMT

In article <1a828hINN8tu@grapevine.EBay.Sun.COM> achan@nata.EBay.Sun.COM (Annie Chan) writes:
>Can anyone give me some recommendations on how to get rid of mint plants?
>The previous owner of my house planted some mint plants in between all the
>rose brushes in my backyard, like weed - the mint plants have been growing 
>so wildly that I can't smell my roses anymore because the mint plants have
>the strong mint fragrance.

Once mint gets established, its like the kudzu plant down South...unrelenting and
unstoppable.  The only way to come close to eradicating it (without harming the
roses) is the old fashioned way, yank 'em out by the roots.  All the roots.
Any roots left behind will most definitely resurrect themselves and sprout.

Good luck!  :)


-- 

Mark A. Breland
breland@mcc.com  "...speaking only for myself, no others and vice versa etc..."
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Winter Rye = Annual Ryegrass ?
Date: 28 Sep 92 17:44:41 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

vanessa stern writes:

> A few years ago, I planted winter rye in our little garden.  Boy, was I
> sorry!!  The stuff got HUGE with roots that went to China.

that's one thing a good cover crop is supposed to do

> We nearly ruined a friend's tiller trying to till it under.

plow, wait two weeks or so, then till

> It would have been totally impossible to do by hand.

no no, i've turned under three-foot-high winter rye by hand
plenty of times when i used to have only a small kitchen garden
(just over 1000 square feet) -- it's a good workout -- i guess
you should expect a vigorous cover crop such as winter rye, that's
been working for you all winter, to require a good deal of effort
on your part in return :)

-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
Xref: sparky rec.gardens:7211 alt.bonsai:139
From: bartlone@gemed (Mike Bartolone)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.bonsai
Subject: Soft water 'poisoning' symptoms
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:32:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: mr.1992Oct6.153225.21410
Reply-To: bartlone@gemed.ge.com (Mike Bartolone)
Followup-To: rec.gardens,alt.bonsai
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Milwaukee,  WI


Does any one out there know what the symptoms would be if a plant
were watered with soft water? I have several plants that are not
at all well, and I am not sure if the water I'm using could
be part or all of the problem. I'd rather not post the symptoms
at this time so I don't get any 'biased' answers. Does anyone
know what to do if you have no reliable source of hard water?
                                            Mike
--
##############################################################
## bartlone@last.med.ge.com 08:00-17:00 Mon-Fri my opinions ##
## are given to me by my boss...after that they are mine... ##
## except when my wifes decides otherwise...                ##
##############################################################
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Hyperaccumulators?
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:59:25 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Oct6.231520.20515@cs.rochester.edu>, dietz@cs.rochester.edu (Paul Dietz) writes:
> 
> I just was reading a bit about some plants that are
> "hyperaccumulators": they concentrate normally toxic metals in their
> tissue to an amazing extent (for example, plants that grow on soils
> derived from ultramafic rocks that concentrate nickel in their leaves
> to > 3% of their dry weight).  Are there any plants normally grown in
> gardens that are hyperaccumulators?

To the best of my knowledge, no.  Though you will see such things as
lead accumulating in root crops like carrots.

Most of the "ultra accumulators" are things like locoweeds, which
pick up selenium in sulfur-poor soils, and you actually get selinium
containing amino acids and proteins (i.e., the selenium "spares" the
sulfur).

There is a cute S. African plant I've read of called "giftboom" (poison
tree) that does something rather spectacular with fluorine, which I've
now forgotten.  Maybe uses Fl- instead of Cl-?????

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kk@mcnc.org (Krzysztof A. Kozminski)
Subject: Re: does pine-bark kill azaleas ??
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:28:35 GMT

>In article <1992Sep30.125322.90237@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> che358w@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au writes:
>>   This weekend we covered our front yard with pine-bark. It looks great and
>>we were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves when someone told us that pine-
>>bark kills azaleas. Is this true ?

No, not true, utter nonsense, in fact.  Pine bark is one of the best
mulches for azaleas.  Pine needles, shredded hardwood leaves and leaf
mold are also excellent.  About 3 inches thick is recommended.

The mulches to avoid are peat moss and sawdust since they tend to form a
crust and shed water.  Also avoid large leaves - they tend to form layers.

The above is based on personal experience and on the recommendations of
F.Galle's "Azaleas".

KK
-- 
"Limit congressmen to two terms.  One in office.  One in jail."
From: karen@athena.cs.uga.edu (Karen Snetselaar)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Mushroom growing kits/spawn sources
Date: 1 Oct 92 03:02:53 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens

In article <1992Sep30.104339.2813@informix.com> louiset@informix.com (Louise Twiggs) writes:
>
>I recently (bit of an impulse buy) bought a shiitake mushroom growing
>kit - however I bought it without reading the instructions - when
>I got it home, I had a little perusal, and found that certain types
>of mushrooms only grow on hardwoods.  the instructions told me to 
>either grow the spores on logs of damp wood - ie oak (there was a list
>of woods that were suitable) or on bales of damp straw.  As I have
>access to neither of these, I put the kit aside until such a day as I
>can afford to move to my mansion in the country where oak forests and
>hay fields abound!
>
>Can anyone confirm that such specific growing conditions are required?
>
>Louise Twiggs
>Informix Software Ltd (UK)

Some mushroom fungi are very picky, not only as to the substrate they
are growing on, but also in the moisture and temperature conditions
they tolerate.  On the other hand, some (Oyster mushroom for example)
are much more tolerant.  

I'm no expert on shiitake, but I've grown it a couple of ways.  One is
on compressed sawdust logs.  This came as a kit, pre-inoculated with
the spawn.  By the way, I hope your kit provided spawn (this is mycelium)
rather than spores.  It would be quite difficult to grow shiitake from
spores.  The other way I've seen shiitake grown is with pieces of wooden
dowel that are permeated with the spawn.  Holes are drilled in the logs
(various hardwoods work, as you've noted) and then the plugs are hammered 
in.  We left the logs out under a tree, and I think they produced mushrooms
for at least a couple of years.  Never any great quantities.  There are
long treatises on shiitake growing (many of them in Japanese of course)
and the experts have lots of tricks--moisture and temperature changes,
special ways to "bump" the logs to make them produce, etc. 

A bag of sawdust might be the easiest substrate if you want to experiment.
If you can't get sterile sawdust, maybe you could pack it into a plastic
bag, let it heat up, then, punch holes in bag for aeration and inoculate.
Just a suggestion....

Good luck-
Karen
From: che358w@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: does pine-bark kill azaleas ??
Date: 30 Sep 92 12:53:22 +1000
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia

Hi,
   This weekend we covered our front yard with pine-bark. It looks great and
we were feeling pretty pleased with ourselves when someone told us that pine-
bark kills azaleas. Is this true ?

Samantha Lane
che358w@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
From: joannek@ems.cdc.com (Joanne Kube-Harderwijk)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Bulb suggestions
Date: 29 Sep 92 14:34:51 GMT
Reply-To: joannek@ems.cdc.com
Organization: Empros Systems International, a division of CDC

In article <1992Sep28.122221.7135@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
|> chrisda@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (David Christensen) writes:
|> > I'm looking for suggestions for bulbs to plant this fall.  I live in mild
|> 
|> I'm also inordinately fond of the "minor bulbs" -- squills, snowdrops, 
|> crocus, fritillaria, etc.  A blue and white carpet of squills and 
|> snowdrops under a blooming Hamamelis vernalis is my idea of "oh, wow!!!".
|> 
I'm glad someone else really likes the minor bulbs.  IMHO they are the most 
beautiful little flowers around.  Maybe its because they are usually the first
flowers of spring (after a long, long winter) or maybe its because they seem 
to grow no matter what.  Snowdrops,squills and glory of the snow are some of
my favorites.  Another that my mother used to have, but I have only seen in 
one catalog (Mich. bulb) is Star of Bethlehem.  Its a lovely white flower on 
a multibranched 9" stem.  (I grew up in Michigan so maybe thats why only Mich
bulb carries them.)  I ordered some from Mich bulb (I know, silly me )
and one grew, so at least I have a start on them.

Check out the Dutch bulb catalog.  Finding another variety to plant is not my
problem, not buying all the ones I want is my problem,  then finding places to
put the ones I just couldn't resist ordering...  Oh well.

Joanne Kube-Harderwijk
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: asente@adobe.com (A Usenet Pal)
Subject: Re: What is it (red shrub)
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 05:37:35 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.232156.7153@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>My best guess is one of the Euonymous species, perhaps E. japonicus??
>E. bungeanus???

Doesn't look like the E. japonicus picture in Sunset, but from the
description I guess there's a lot of variation, so I wouldn't rule it out
completely.  No idea about E. bungeanus (the bungee cord plant?).

>Are there any serrations on the leaves?  Or are the edges entirely smooth?
>And if the leaf is an oval, is the widest part above or below the middle
>of the leaf if you fold it so that the leaf tip is touching the leaf stalk?

No serrations.  The leaf is teardrop-shaped, slightly rounded at the point
and with just a hint of a dimple at the stem end.

>Does it have a leaf stalk (petiole)?  Does it have stipules?  What is the
>venation pattern like?  Pinnate and very straight, like an elm, or pinnate
>but curved, echoing the leaf shape like a dogwood?   Palmate, where all the
>veins seem to come from one spot, like a maple?  Is there perceptible fuzz
>or roughness to the leaves?  Is there anything characteristic about the 
>stems or twigs??? (like wings, or squarish shape or...)?

No petiole to speak of; maybe 1/8 inch on the largest leaves.  There is a
very thin strip of leaf going down along the petiole.  Don't know what a
stipule is. The venation is closer to a dogwood than an elm; there is one
midvein with the side veins sort of random.  Actually that part is kind of
interesting: each main side vein branches in two near the edge of the leaf,
and the two branches from each adjacent pair of veins curve together and
appear to meet, so there appears to be a continuous scalloped vein going
parallel to the leaf edge.  The leaves are glossy on top and matte on the
bottom, heavy enough that I suspect the plant may be evergreen.  The bottom
of the leaf feels soft but not fuzzy.  Other than being very red and *very*
straight, there is nothing notable about the stems and twigs.

Something else I just noticed...the leaves have, for about 1/5 of the length
starting from the stem end, a row of short, dense, fine white hairs coming
from each side of the main vein on the underside of the leaf.

The flower buds are more mature near the tips of the twigs and smaller as you
get back closer to the main branch.  What I said before about the buds being
singular near the branch and clumped near the tips isn't quite right, I see
now...it's just that near the branch there's only one large bud; the side
buds are still quite small.  

>Kay

Thanks!  Do we have a mystery here?

__   -paul asente
\/     asente@adobe.com   ...decwrl!adobe!asente   moo-bear@cs.stanford.edu

The most dangerous creation of any society is that man who has
nothing to lose.				-James Baldwin
From: Roger.Duvall@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Roger Duvall)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Office plants?
Summary: What great plants grow on  a desk?
Keywords: office plants
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:58:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: AtlantaG.Roger.Duvall.4.0
Organization: NCR Engineering and Manufacturing Atlanta -- Atlanta, GA

I think I would like to grow something on my desk.  It has to be small 
because I don't have enough desk space as it is.  It has to grow well under 
two flourescent bulbs.  There are no windows nearby -- typical office 
atmosphere.  I want something special.  Any suggestions?
----------------------------------------------------------------
  Roger Duvall                 Roger.Duvall@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM
----------------------------------------------------------------
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pruning Raspberry Bushes
Date: 29 Sep 92 19:22:03 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

tim becker writes:

> we cut our rasberry stalks down to about 6 inches from the ground 
> each year (when it's cold out) and we get a good crop each year

the original posting was about summer-bearing rasps -- you are
(unwittingly?) following a cultural practice advocated for
fall-bearing rasps -- perhaps you aren't sure what you're growing?

> The person who gave me my original plants told me to make sure I 
> water "every night" -- esp. when they are just starting to put out 
> fruit. 

you can sometimes get away with even the *worst* practices :) --
many of the best-tasting rasp cultivars are extremely susceptible 
to root rot -- even with preventative measures (e.g., ridomil),
nightly watering would spell disaster

-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: What is it (red shrub)
Date: 28 Sep 92 23:21:56 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

asente@adobe.com (A Usenet Pal) writes:
> 
> This time we have a shrub.  The one I saw was about 3' tall and 4' diameter.
> Branches are quite straight and quite red.  Leaves about 1" long, rounded
> where they are attached and pointed at the other end.  The top is deep green,
> the bottom silvery, but both sides with a reddish cast.  They appear in pairs
> opposite each other on the stem.  Currently (on San Francisco peninsula)
> bearing many white tubular flowers.  Immature flower buds are between two
> small reddish leaf like things.  There is one flower bud between each leaf
> and the stem, except near the tips of branches, where there is a cluster.

My best guess is one of the Euonymous species, perhaps E. japonicus??
E. bungeanus???

Are there any serrations on the leaves?  Or are the edges entirely smooth?
And if the leaf is an oval, is the widest part above or below the middle
of the leaf if you fold it so that the leaf tip is touching the leaf stalk?

Does it have a leaf stalk (petiole)?  Does it have stipules?  What is the
venation pattern like?  Pinnate and very straight, like an elm, or pinnate
but curved, echoing the leaf shape like a dogwood?   Palmate, where all the
veins seem to come from one spot, like a maple?  Is there perceptible fuzz
or roughness to the leaves?  Is there anything characteristic about the 
stems or twigs??? (like wings, or squarish shape or...)?

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: air@cs.cmu.edu (Alex Rudnicky)
Subject: Re: roto-tilling hard clay
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 17:34:06 GMT

In article <1453300090@igc.apc.org> ecologycntr@igc.apc.org (Ecology Center)  
writes:
 
> Spend the money you'd have spent on a rototiller on gypsum and
> compost.  Water the clay well, then, a couple days later, poke
> holes in it with a spading fork. (If you don't have a spdaing

Gypsum is often said to improve clay soil.  This is only true is your soil is  
highly alkaline; for other soil you will get little or no improvement.  Compost  
and other organic amendments, on the other hand, will always make a big  
difference.

> you're set.  DO NOT turn the soil, whether with the fork or a
> rototiller. This destroys the soil profile (all the different
> layers with their different flora & fauna) (which exist even in

Maintaining soil profile is probably more important once you've improved your  
soil, particularly as the flora/fauna will change anyways once you've  
introduced organic matter.  So, it may be reasonable to turn the soil first  
time around, as long as you avoid it in subsequent seasons.
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Looking for shamrock
Date: 25 Sep 92 13:09:37 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

ash@argus.lpl.Arizona.EDU (Jen Ash) writes:

 > Does anyone out there know of someplace I can mail order the shamrock
 > flower? MIchigan Bulb doesn't have it...............................

According to _TAYLOR'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF GARDENING_, "In different seasons
and in different regions at least three cult. plants pass as `shamrocks'.
The most common and perhaps the true shamrock, if there is one, is the
common white clover (Trifolium repens). Another plant often sold as
shamrock is the hop clover (Medicago lupulina). The third is a wood sorrel
(Oxalis Acetosella)...."

So, I don't know exactly WHICH shamrock you're looking for. But seed(s)
for common white clover should be available at most local nurseries. If
you're unable to find any near you, you might want to get a catalog from
the following.

        PEACEFUL VALLEY FARM SUPPLY             (CAT $2 - deduct. from)
        P.O. Box 2209                           (first order)
        Grass Valley, CA 95945
--------
        JOHNNY'S SELECTED SEEDS                 (CAT. FREE)
        310 Foss Hill Road
        Albion, ME 04910
--------
        W. ATLEE BURPEE                         (CAT. FREE)
        300 Park Avenue
        Warminster, PA 18974
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bob Batson
From: sanker@hpcvra.cv.hp.com (Greg Sanker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Moving roses...
Date: 29 Sep 92 23:51:39 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, OR, USA

>I need to transplant a couple of roses soon.
>So I have the basic questions of:
>	when?  ( I figured that fall would be better than spring)

I moved 8 roses in winter (we have mild winters in western Oregon) The 
idea, as I understand is to do in when they are dorment.

>	how?   (do I need to prune they back? add fertilizer?)

Yes, prune back to the best 3-4 stocks, each about 1.5 -2 feet high.
I wouldn't fertilize; might cause them want to grow out of season. But 
be extra nice come spring. 

>	will they survive?

No gurantees, but I had snow on mine the day after I transplanted, and all 
survived. Roses are quite hardy

Greg Sanker
sanker@hpcvts.cv.hp.com

>
>thanks in advance,
>-Mary Lau