HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dphantom@triton.unm.edu (darlene an  92sep02 lawry)
Subject: Re: Need Help With Ick!!!
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 92 00:46:31 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <1992Oct8.154617.1092@den.mmc.com> snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com (Cindy Newell) writes:
>In article <7OCT199216402083@utkvx1.utk.edu> jkell@utkvx1.utk.edu (Kell, Jeffrey R) writes:
>>In article <1992Oct07.173332.22135@brtph560.bnr.ca>, rzeller@brtph450.bnr.ca (Richard Zeller P860) writes...
>>>I am really frustrated!!! How long can I expect the ick to last? What's the
>>>best way to treat it now and how do I prevent future infections? I was told
>>
>>I also had a recent ick problem.  Try using Maracide, it is specifically for 
>>parasitic infections.  You may not be able to save fish already infested, but
<stuff deleted>
>
>
>I may be totally off here, but I was told at fish store that anything
>that puts aniline (methylyn blue?) in the water is harmful to your
>bottom feeders, ie loaches, catfish, plecos, etc.  I have had nothing
>but trouble with Maracide, as it killed 6 of my clown loaches and a 
>pictus catfish!  The same company that makes Maracide makes a product
>called "CopperSafe" which is what I was told would handle the Ick 
>problem without harming the bottom feeders.
>
>Am i tight about this...anyone?
>
>-- 
> Cindy Camp - Usual disclaimers apply   |  Just waiting for a good quote
> Martin Marietta  (303)977-9804 	|  or lyric right now.
> snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com  or	|  
> cnewell@azum.den.mmc.com		|  

Well, sorta.  First off, Methylene Blue is not terribly effective against Ick.
It's better for egg fungus and protozoans (yes, it has relatively limited use).
Problems:
(methylene blue)

- may adversely affect plants
- easily deactivated by organic matter (act. carbon kills it pretty well :)
- may adversely affect helpful bacteria in your filter
- may discolor equipment, including silicone sealant.

With Ick, I've had MUCH better luck with Malachite Green.  Treats fungus,
ick, sliminess of the skin, and velvet disease.  In other words, most          
infections of this sort--good to use if you're not sure which it is, or if
it may be a combonation.

Problems (Malachite Green):

- some fish (namely scaless and some characins) don't tolerate it well
- easily deactivated by organic matter (big surprise)
- must take care in handling--can be an irritant to skin, eyes, and mouth.

Specific info taken from The Manual of Fish Health.
From: jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Need Help With Ick!!!
Date: 15 Oct 92 02:19:44 GMT
Organization: This space for rent.

rzeller@brtph450.bnr.ca (Richard Zeller P860) writes:
>Five days ago I experienced my first outbreak of ICK. This was after buying
>a number of new fish (that looked healthy).

With the shotgun treatment approach you are using now, it will probably
last until you run out of fish.

>What's the best way to treat it now

Pick a treatment and stick to it.  I use Desa Fin by Tetra.  It is 
formaldehyde and malachite green.  I treat the tank with three doses,
one every other day, at the rate given on the bottle.  If you use it
early enough it will work.  This assumes you do not have any creatures
in the tank that like these chemicals less than they like ick.  As
others have pointed out, some critters do not like anything related
to copper.  You can get formaline without the malachite green in a
number of packages.  Read the labels!

I like to use the malachite green since it can help control potential
fungal outbreaks at the wound site.

As you have discovered (let's hope) absence of visible infestation
is NOT a reliable indicator of a fish being free of parasites.

>and how do I prevent future infections?

There are three ways you could have prevented this from happening:

1) quarantine
2) quarantine
3) quarantine

>I was told the original infection is usally brought on by a temp.
>change in the tank,

Someone fed you some fertilizer.
-- 
Jan Isley   jan@bagend.uucp   gatech.edu!bagend!jan   (404)434-1335
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7929 alt.aquaria:5288
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: undead pleco
From: cpbuehrer@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 10 Oct 92 10:14:50 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

Hahahaha!!  I defy this damned *PLECO!!!!* curse by telling you this great
story!

I got home from work yesterday, and went in the fish room to feed all my fish
(I have 3 tanks).  And I just about freaked when I saw a pleco floating belly
up at the top of the water!!

But when I looked closer, I realized it wasn't dead...but it was clinging to
the airline hose flipping its tail around in the bubbles!  (I've just got an
airstone attached to the hose.)  This pleco was having a total blast swimming
around and playing in the bubbles!!!  It was sooooo funny!

I've had this pleco for months, and I've never seen it do this before.  Thank
goodness it wasn't dead.  What a trip!!!

--Dennis
From: pjs@gvgdsd.GVG.TEK.COM (Peter J. Stonard)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Big Air Pumps
Date: 15 Oct 92 00:55:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: gvgspd.2067
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <cburns-081092113314@end.chem.indiana.edu> cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns) writes:
>I'm looking for an air pump to drive many tanks.  I've not got so many that
>a blower would be a good way to go, so I'm thinking about a large pump.  I
>want to drive multiple shallow (12") tanks.  I'm thinking about Whisper
>1000, Supra 4, Dynamaster 2.  Does anyone out there know which pump will
>move the most air volume?  I've heard the Dynamaster is a bit louder than
>the others, anyone know how much louder?
>
>Thanks,

Chris,

I currently have a DynamasterII (DII) and a Whisper 1000. Until I bought
the DII a year or so ago. I am a great fan of Whisper pumps, and
used them exclusively, before buying a Luft G in addition to the other
kinds.

1) I like all the pumps I have. I've seen some knock off copies of
the basic vibrating diaphram pump - they're rubbish.

2) The DII is very load. Period. It drowns out all other noises in the
fish room. (Water splashing, bubbles from foam filters, motor filters,
etc).

3) The DII needs routine maintanence every two or three weeks. Mainly
adding lubricating oil to the crank bearing and crank arms. If you 
don't it gets noisy. The belt is unguarded  and could be a hazard if
the pump is exposed and you have small children or pets.

4) The DII makes more air than the W1000, both in pressure and
volume. May be twice as much, IMHO. As the DII is a piston pump 
the air arrives in 'spurts', you can see bubbles from the airstones 
in groups as they float to the top.

5) Electrical power consumption of the DII is much higher than the
W1000, 60W vs 15W, I think. (Don't have either one handy). The DII
motor runs hot! Too hot to hold for more than 10 seconds, anyone
else have a DII to confirm??

6) I'm currently feeding one cylinder of the DII and both sides
of the  W1000 into a four foot long x 3/4 PVC pipe with 12 air
line valves equally spaced along it. Four air stones, in deep
tanks, two air stones in brine shrimp jars, four UGF airlift
air stones. Not much spare capacity, IMHO, if I open one unused
valve to the atmosphere most of the other air stones stop.

The other cylinder of the DII feeds a second PVC manifold, that
has twelve more valves. Four Tetra Billi foam filters and seven
No Clog airstones.  The pulsing effect is more noticable on these.

Hope this helps you pick a pump system. I've wondered what I would
do to get more air. Howard Rebel at Hp was tinkering with an
emission control air pump and 1/4 horse motor (200W ++ ?).

++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
Peter J. Stonard        +                                /^\  /^\
Grass Valley Group      +                       /^\     /   \/
Grass Valley, CA. 95945 +                     /     \ /    /  
pjs@gvgspd.gvg.tek.com  +     Fish keeper in the Sierra Foothills
++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++=++
If it looks like; sounds like; quacks like; an Opinion. It's mine.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: chris@kbsw1 (Chris Kostanick 806 1044)
Subject: Re: Tank Decor, was Re: Single Species Tanks
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:21:49 GMT
Reply-To: chris@kbsw3.UUCP (Chris Kostanick 806 1044)
Organization: Kentek Information Systems

Well, I'm really ashamed to admit this, but I'm very partial to
the bubbling treasure chest. In fact, I was thinking about having
an office tank with RED gravel, bubbling treasure chest, fluro lights
and NO FISH OR PLANTS at all. I figured it would be really low
maintanence. Some people think this would be cool, others think
it's nutty. I vote for nutty my self. (Oh yeah, blue crystal craze
on the back!)

Blushingly
Chris Kostanick

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Subject: Re: Copper Removal
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 19:27:34 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.153219.9308@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> mhatz@nyx.cs.du.edu (Mike Hatz) writes:
>What is the best way(s) to remove copper from a tank that already has it present
>in the water?  Thanks.


I believe that Novaqua removes copper from water.  It also has other
things like phosphates that you may or may not want in your tank.

rick
-- 
rick clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) | Ban Handguns.
           (CIS 70272,3270)            |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dave@genghis.borland.com (Dave Draper)
Subject: Re: (F) Need info on Severums and Gouramis
Originator: dave@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Distribution: rec.quaria
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 01:27:46 GMT

In article <SCULLYL.92Oct12220756@prism.cs.orst.edu> scullyl@prism.cs.orst.edu writes:
>
>I have two Green Severums (I think the scientific name for them is
>Cichlasoma severum. At least that is the one that looks the most like
>them). What I was wonderis is if anyone could give me any info on this
>species and other severums. Would like to know how big they could get,
>breeding habits, how to tell male from female. 
>

Green Severums have the scientific name _Heros serverus_ . They are
South American Cichlids and herbivours. They can also be found in
a Gold variety that is not normally found in nature very often. There
is also a Severum know as the Tuquoise Severum which hales from Peru.
Is scientific name is _Heros appendiculatus_.

Adult Severums can get up 10+ inches in length. It is hard to sex adult
Severums. Generally males have longer pointer fins and tend to be larger
than females. Males also have may have more blue and red color in them
but this can be hard to tell on a lot of them. The only really reliable
way to sex them is either watch them pair off or remove the fish from
the tank and look.

I have many Severums of all three types. Green, Gold and Turquoise.
They readily eat Hikari Cichlid Excel and just about any type of
greens or veggies left over from dinner.  They are merciless to plants
so don't plan on having any survive for long once they get large.
The larger they get the more intolerant they will get of each other.

>
>Lyle
>--
>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>+  Lyle Scully                 +   What is left when honor is lost?   +      
>+  scullyl@prism.cs.orst.edu   +         -- Publilius Syrus           +   
>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

- Dave Draper
  Pacific Coast Cichlid Association
  Cichlasoma Study Group

-- 
Dave Draper
Senior Engineer - Debugger & Tools
Borland International
dave@borland.com
From: terry@gtm-inc.com (Terry Gerritsen)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Brine shrimp breeding?
Keywords: buy
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 06:01:20 EDT
Reply-To: terry@gtm-inc.com (Terry Gerritsen)
Distribution: na
Organization: G.T.M. Incorporated, Kingston, ON (613) 546-3078
Content-Type: Text

kcwong@ssd.kodak.com (K.C. Wong 253-7926) writes:

> In article 23979@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu, weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Week
> >
> >     I have been considering starting to raise brine shrimp
> >for feeding purposes. I want to be able to set up a small (2.5
> >
> >                                     Don
> > <stuff deleted>
> 
> 
> Buy a "Sea Monkey Kit" at Toys R Us.
> 
> 
> ---- KC

It would probably be cheaper to buy it.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Terry Gerritsen         |  G.T.M. Incorporated              (613) 384 0162
terry@gtm-inc.com       |  Kingston, Ontario           Fax: (613) 389 4594
                      "Transportation is our business"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: dir/reg
Date: 15 Oct 92 17:32:50 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article shazam@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu writes:
>Hi...I have been reading the discussion of the crabs and after
>reading the note about the Oscars and the crabs, I was a bit confused
>as to which you were saying would damage your plants.

No freshwater crabs come to mind at this moment, so I can't comment on 
that.  Oscars will definitely turn your plants into mush.  They don't
really eat them, they just chew them up and spit them out.  Oscars 
will do this with heaters, UGF lift tubes, rocks, and just about anything
else found in an aquarium.  Severums, on the other hand, actually consume
the plants.

>Are Oscars known to destroy live plants?  

This is a very good choice of words.  They're even hard on plastic ones.
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
From: itlm063@dino.ucdavis.edu (David M. Fernandez)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (SW) need help please
Date: 14 Oct 92 18:07:54 GMT
Organization: Computing Services, UC Davis
Originator: itlm063@dino.ucdavis.edu

I bought a used SW 70 gallon, set it up and put in some Bacteria Zyme 
and some fritz zyme (the store did not have enough of one brand).

The tank came with 1 2 inch tomatoe clown (think it is a black clown)
and two yellow tail blue damsels. 

The readings are nitrtate .2 
                 nitrite  60 ppm
                 amonia   1.0
                 ph 8.2

The tank has been set up for 3 days and is about 82 degress F.

I did a 20% water change nce the amonia was in the "danger" zone.
Does anyone want to offer some helpfull hints on helping the fish to survive ?

The clown does not seem to be eating, he bites the flakes and spits them out
he does not look bloated and he was in the tank for 2 years before I bought it.

I would also like to know how many bulbs and what type of bulbs I need 
to keep a anemone alive in the tank.

I want to have damsels and clowns in the tank, eventually I would like to
try to have them spawn. :)

Thanks in advance.

-david
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Fastest Fish??
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 16:56:55 GMT

matthew.kaufman (mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com) wrote:
: In article <wong.719201726@sfu.ca> wong@fraser.sfu.ca (Sam S. Wong) writes:
: >Keeping on topic with fast fish, what tropical fish do most aquarists have
: >most troubles catching with or without hiding areas?
: > 
: >Out of all the fish I raised, I had lots of problems catching zebra danios
: >with one net.
: > 
: >African chichilds give me the most problems when my tanks are filled with 
: Pet peeve - 'cichlids'
: >caves.
: 
: Africans and caves. Diamond tetras for bare tanks. Even ones that were
: kept under 70F for who knows how long are real irritating to try to catch -
: they understand up and down, back and forth *no problem.* Every time I've
: tried to move those fish I've had to drain the tank way down then net them.

Nope.  The #1 toughest fish to catch is a long-nosed (horse-face)
loach in a tank with gravel.  You can't catch a fish that can not
only bury itself in the gravel, but is actually capable of swimming
*through* the gravel.  To remove this fish from the tank, one must
actually drain the water to below the level of the gravel - then
the sucker will flop out and start looking for water.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter)
Subject: Re: De-Ionizers needed for saltwater?
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 19:57:11 GMT

In article <lsnpr5f@lynx.unm.edu> jon@apollo.mcl.bdm.com (Jon Humphreys) writes:
>During a recent talk with a local petstore owner who specializes in reeftanks,
>the subject of water changes came up.  He adamently assured me that, with a 
>reeftank (corals and inverts), water added to replace evaporation HAD to be
>run through a deionizer to eliminate metals, silicates, and various trace
>elements.  He wanted to sell me one for $200 (I didn't buy it).  This
>seems contrary to what Moe said in his Reference, and I can't imagine every
>reef tank owner spending $200 on a deionizer.  Are they really needed?
>Do those of you who already have or have had reef tanks do anything besides
>declorinate your water before adding salt?
>
No it's not necessary to buy one, you can buy water from a water store
instead.  It really is important unless you have an excellant local
water source (San Jose sure dosen't) to use RO, Distilled, or Deionized
water esp for evaporation make up.  I also use to for mixing new salt
water.

Brian

>-- 


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kevin@modcomp.com (Kevin Smith)
Subject: Re: [M][All]New Technology
Organization: MODCOMP, an AEG company
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 19:05:19 GMT

mcconnel@b11.b11.ingr.com (Guy McConnell) writes:

>In article <1992Oct15.004426.10599@bsu-ucs.uucp> 01mbmccabe@bsu-ucs.uucp writes:
>>Anyone heard of the completely computer-controlled, closed environment marine
>>system being developed?  I can't remember off hand who's responsible for it
>>(it's in one of my fish mag.'s), but it goes for some where in the neighborhood
>>of $200,000 and occupies a rather large room.  It is sounds like a very

This months FAMA has some information on it, the issue with the
albino angel on it.  And hey it's only around $100,000 for the starter 
package, such a deal.  :-)
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Saturday, 10 Oct 1992 22:02:10 EDT
From: <IO20614@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: test run only

trying my sig file again
             ALEX  PARKER              * SHE'S CRAFTY, SHE GETS AROUND
   SELF-APPOINTED (SELF-ABSORBED??)    * SHE'S CRAFTY, SHE'S ALWAYS DOWN
          ** FISH * GURU **            * SHE'S CRAFTY, SHE'S GOT A GRIPE
          U MAINE   ZOOLOGY            * SHE'S CRAFTY, SHE'S JUST MY TYPE
       IO20614@MAINE.MAINE.EDU         *         --BEASTIE BOYS
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Question about people who have questions about algae problems [F]
Date: 9 Oct 92 01:18:37 GMT
Organization: Commodore

In article   writes:
>due.edu!wmack
>From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
>Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
>Subject: Question about people who have questions about algae problems [F]
>Message-ID: <1992Oct8.165929.2116@en.ecn.purdue.edu>
>Date: 8 Oct 92 16:59:29 GMT
>Date-Received: 9 Oct 92 00:17:29 GMT
>Distribution: usa
>Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
>Lines: 19
>
>I notice every now and then someone comes out with a post describing some sort
>of algae problem in their freshwater tank.  They then go on with a long detaileddescription of their problem, be it brown algae, green algae, red, black, blue,
>purple - whatever.  They have bought 3 different types of algae killing 
>chemicals with no luck, and the algae is getting worse and worse...
>
>I always respond the same way, "Do you have a pleco?" (curse...ha!).  Although
>I usually dont get a response to that question, Ill bet the answer is usually 
>no.  I bought my plecos over 3 years ago and have not delt with algae since.
>Personally, I cannot imagine a freshwater tank without one.  (Im not implying 
>its a standard either)  From my experience:
>
>Algae destroying chemicals do not work.  Dont waste your time and money.
>If you have a plecostomus you will not have to worry about algae whatsoever.
>
>If you insist on not having a pleco in your tank, and like to scrape the sides
>of your tank often, and like algae problems, and like poor water conditions 
>then.....more power to ya!!
>
>Not a flame....wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu

Well, I have a bristlenose pleco in my 55g tank and he doesn't put a dent in
the green furry algae that coats the walls like a blanket. No, I don't feed
him much else, just a Tabimin every now and again. I bought this type of
pleco since it only gets to be about 6" in length. Normal plecos sold in
pet stores (H. punctatus) get to 14" or so in length and are inappropriate
for anything but a large tank. I found this out the hard way after returning
several 8" specimens to pet stores. Also a large pleco will subject your
plant stems to quite a beating. What do you do with your plecos when they
get too large?

-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Robert J. Raible		EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
VLSI Program Manager		 or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
From: pierson@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (PIERSON  DUSTINE)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: wet/dry filter plans
Date: 7 Oct 92 03:15:44 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

This is my first post, so please, no flames :)
Last time I was on rec.aquaria, I noticed a thread
about a do-it-yourself plan for a wet/dry filter.
I would appreciate any information about ease of
construction and savings over buying commercial.
You can e-mail me direct at pierson@boulder.colorado.edu
In reality, this info is for my brother, who is
an aquarium nut, we call him fish :)
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7944 alt.aquaria:5306
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: undead pleco
From: cpbuehrer@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 12 Oct 92 02:57:25 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

In article <1992Oct12.015101.28276@cs.umb.edu>, mike@ra.cs.umb.edu (Michael J. Thibodeau) writes:
> A favorite place for my pleco is to go belly-up and wedge his head into a nook
> in a stone archway in the tank and "spank" the other fish with his tail as they
> brush by him.
> -mike

Yeah...mine has the tendency to do that too.  Except it's just in a tank full
of baby bettas.

It kindof reminds me of that creature Mothra from the Godzilla movies.  Because
with just one flick of my pleco's tail, it can whip up a nice gust of a current
and send all those bettas flying all over the place outta control.  It's really
a riot.

I also noticed that this pleco in question can be quite rude.  If you walk up
to the tank and start bugging it and pissing it off...it will turn its back
side to you and start wagging his tail in your face.  (Also quite amusing!)


--Dennis