HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com (Jeff Donsbach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Final about Re: Importing
Date: 13 Nov 92 23:02:37 GMT
Organization: Computervision, Bedford MA

In article <1992Nov09.164636.15806@microsoft.com>, laurahal@microsoft.com
(Laura Halliday) writes:
|> 
|> [much previous stuff deleted]
|> 
|> There was an interesting report in the paper recently stating that the
|> average purchase price of a new car as a percentage of the average
|> family's annual income has doubled in the past 10 years. The article
|> (it was either in the L.A. Times or the S.J. Mercury News) attributed
|> the increase to an increase in the number of standard gadgets on new
|> cars, as well as higher costs for safety gadgets (e.g. air bags).

as well as the costs of certifying the cars through the standard battery
of governmental crash tests, emissions tests, etc, etc....

|> 
|> Which all fits in very well with the current discussion - does all the
|> new high-tech 4 cam computer-controlled technology make vehicles that
|> get from Point A to Point B any better? Do all the safety features accomplish
|> anything that a reasonably skilled reasonably responsible driver in a
|> well-maintained vehicle couldn't do on his/her own?

The gee whiz cockpit gadgets, most people could live without. Underhood stuff,
like fuel injection computers have become practically a necessity in order
to have a vehicle which passed current emissions standards and still has
a respectable amount of power. Are there any new vehicles left out there
that still use carbs (sold in the US)?? Safety things like airbags and ABS are
a toss up. Some people could live without them, others consider them a necessity.

|> 
|> I happen to enjoy the primal driving experience of older air-cooled VWs.
|> They get me from point A to point B economically, and for a fraction
|> of the cost of a new car. I can't ask for much more.
|> 
|> ...laura

     each to his own. I wouldn't mind having an old Bug to play with if I had
the time, money, garage space, etc. etc. I learned to drive in a 196x Bug
in my uncle's field up in Maine. I was about 14.

-Jeff

-- 
=========================
Jeff Donsbach, Computervision Corp, 14 Crosby Dr. MS 5-2, Bedford, MA 01730
UUCP: {decvax|linus|sun}!cvbnet!jdonsbac | Internet: jdonsbac@cvbnet.prime.com
"10 bucks is 10 bucks" - Geddy Lee                       (soon to be CV.Com ??)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: 86 GTi fuel line problem???
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 01:40:52 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

Greets, I am having a problem with my 86 GTi and I am welcoming comments on
what the problem might be.  Here is a description of the problem:

Recently, within the past month-month and a half, my car has occasionally 
decided that it did not want to start.  The first time it happened, I thought
that maybe I ran out of gas or something.  The plugs are getting a spark but
the engine will not fire.  The starter seems 'ok' but it just won't start.
My usual way to get around the problem is to wait about 1-2 minutes and then
try to start the car.  This usually works.  It does not matter whether the car
is hot or cold. It has happened in all conditions.  When it DOES decide to 
start, the car seems like nothing ever happened.  The is no loss in power
or response of the throttle.
 
Today though, the car decided to stay dead for 45 minutes and it was not 
fun.  After 45 minutes, I attempted to start the engine and it fired up
to about 2k rpms and immediatly died.  This was very quickly and after 
that it would not start again.  I did this two more times with about 5 mins
between each occurance.  Eventually It just started up like nothing was 
wrong.   I am thinking that I may have a plug in my fuel line somewhere or
that maybe a pump is dying.  Does anyone have a clue as to what might
be wrong with this auto before I tear into the fuul system? 
 
Any help is appreciated. 

Kevin.
 
 
BTW: I use only Super Unleaded and there has not been a fuel filter change
in about 25,000 miles.  The fuel filter will be changed this weekend as
soon as I get a chance.
From: colemant@yvax.byu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: 46mm nut---How to remove?
Date: 17 Nov 92 10:20:16 -0700
Organization: Brigham Young University

Please help me find the tool/ wrench to remove the rear axle nut from
my 71 bus.  The size is 46mm and the only offers I have are for:

$107 crescent wrence with 2.5" max
$30  socket and adaptor from sears

I have visions of making a tool to fit stuggly with some arm sticking out
to hit with a hammer.  Custom making it may cost more than buying it.

How do you get to those rear breaks on your bus?  where did you get
the tool to remove the nut?

Help please.   --Tom
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 46mm nut---How to remove?
Date: 17 Nov 1992 23:00:06 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, colemant@yvax.byu.edu () says:

>Please help me find the tool/ wrench to remove the rear axle nut from
>my 71 bus.  The size is 46mm and the only offers I have are for:
>
>$107 crescent wrence with 2.5" max
>$30  socket and adaptor from sears
>
>I have visions of making a tool to fit stuggly with some arm sticking out
>to hit with a hammer.  Custom making it may cost more than buying it.
>
>How do you get to those rear breaks on your bus?  where did you get
>the tool to remove the nut?
>
>Help please.   --Tom
>

you might see if your local parts house has a leasing program..it's
nice..i got a 30mm socket to do something.the way this one worked was
you pay for the part, they give it to you, you bring it back within the
alloted time(2 days, i think i had), you get a fulll refund..you lose the
tool, break the tool, or just do notshow up on time, you have bought it.
you now have a tool, and they now have the full payment for it....i think
it's kinda neat, though can be a pain...but not a bad system..maybe some
one near you has such a thing?
DREW
-- 
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????-----whatever!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:25:42 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.013951.18160@u.washington.edu> calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih) writes:
>
>     Hi, I have a question for ya... On the average, how much does it cost
>     to have the timing belt replaced by an independent volkswagon repair
>     shop... and how much does it cost for the timing belt alone?   I have

Belt is about $20, labor is roughly 1hr +/- 1hr.

>     a 16V Scirocco and it has 56,000 miles on it, I am thinking about
>     replacing the belt soon...

yes

>     By the way, would you know if I can have the cam shaft replaced without
>     taking more things apart when changing the belt?  I am thinking about
>     buying a new cam shaft(those high performance ones) and stick it in the
>     engine to boost up the horsepower.  Does anyone have any suggestions
>     to which ones are good, and if doing so may be good or bad to the
>     engine?

I put an Euro "N" cam into my 84 GTI and got a very nice improvement
in the engine.  Idle is still fine, but overall torque is just a bit
more.  Not a racing cam by any means, but just a nice bit to make it a
little bit better than the average GTI.  I would never have done it
unless Autotech put it on sale for $70 or so.

Installing cams is 85% independent of the timing belt.  With the
timing belt you need to attack the entire front (right) of the engine,
from the bottom (crank) to the top (cams), including a/c, alt, water.
The camshaft(s) is the entire top of the engine from front (right) to
back (left), leaving the crankshaft, a/c, alt, water untouched.

SUMMARY: do the belt first because it's a reliability/longevity issue.
Pick your cam and do it when Autotech has a sale.

>     Doug, what does 'SSB Scirocco' mean?  :)

Showroom Stock class B.  It means that Doug cannot put a hot cam,
wider tires or wheels, bigger brakes, big throttle bodies, etc. into
his Scirocco.  Poor Doug (but he certainly will drive better than the
rest of us).

-andy




Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eu507dac@pts.mot.com (DOUG CHRISTENSEN X3915 P6818)
Subject: Re: Timing belts and 16v engines
Reply-To: eu507dac@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:28:39 GMT

In article 18160@u.washington.edu, calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih) writes:
>eu507dac@pts.mot.com (DOUG CHRISTENSEN X3915 P6818) writes:
>
>>In article 110@mipps.myapc.com, haskins@mipps.myapc.com (Robert D. Haskins) writes:
>>>I was told by a reputable service manager that the timing belts of VW 16-valve
>>>engines need to be changed at 60k miles.  Has anyone had a timing belt go on
>>>them this soon?  The service manager indicated that the belt is spec'ed only
>>>to 60k miles.  I would think that VW would spec it for more like 100k miles.
>>>
>>>Is this guy telling the truth?  The vehicle in question happens to be a '90
>>>Passat, but he indicated that it was the same for all VW 16-valve engines.
>>>
>>
>>Better believe it.  16V heads go for about $1000.00 bare.  If the belt breaks,
>>consider the head gone.  The belt is relatively cheap insurance and you should
>>see some improved performance.  Armed with a Bentley manual, you may want to try
>>changing it yourself.  It's kind of a pain with all the belts you need to remove.
>>You may want to replace those also.
>>
>>I got about 15 races and 70K miles before I did mine, but I consider myself
>>lucky.
>>
>>Doug Christensen,  SSB Scirocco
>
>============================================================================
>
>     Hi, I have a question for ya... On the average, how much does it cost
>     to have the timing belt replaced by an independent volkswagon repair
>     shop... and how much does it cost for the timing belt alone?   I have
>     a 16V Scirocco and it has 56,000 miles on it, I am thinking about
>     replacing the belt soon...
>
>     By the way, would you know if I can have the cam shaft replaced without
>     taking more things apart when changing the belt?  I am thinking about
>     buying a new cam shaft(those high performance ones) and stick it in the
>     engine to boost up the horsepower.  Does anyone have any suggestions
>     to which ones are good, and if doing so may be good or bad to the
>     engine?
>
>     Doug, what does 'SSB Scirocco' mean?  :)
>
>
>               -kent
>
>
I do my own work so I don't know what the dealer charges.  I think the belt
costs $50 - $60 (again, I'm not sure).  I would guess the labor to be about
be about 2 hours.  Call your local dealer, they can tell the cost over the
phone.  Cams, hum?  The air plenum (sp?) needs to be removed to get the valve
off.  Then there are two cams, one intake, one exhaust.  Not a simple job, but 
it is possible.

Recommendation,  if you have emmisions tests, I would not fool with the cams.
Also I've read better performance increases in replacing (in this order) 1)
K+N air filter, 2) European exhaust manifold, 3) Blue printed injectors and 4)
a larger throttle body (emmissions?).  Bump the timing up to about 10 degrees
and run good gas (listen for pining and retard if necessary).

SSB is my SCCA racing class. Showroom Stock B.

Enjoy,  Doug

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: engine rebuild (watercooled) ????
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 20:09:44 GMT

In article <1992Nov18.012846.11819@ee.eng.ohio-state.edu> roden@phonon.eng.ohio-state.edu (Christoph A Roden) writes:
>Has anyone out there rebuilt a watercooled VW shortblock?
>I have several questions since I am considering 
>trying to rebuilt my '81 Scirocco.
>
>1)  where did you order the parts from ? 
>    Pistons, rods, bearings, oil pump.
>
>2)  were you satisfied with the parts?
>    how much were they?
>
>3)  Where did you get your machine work done?
>    and what shouold I look out for?
>
>4)  any other trick or hints?
>
>
>Please email with responses
>Thanks alot!
>Chris

	European Car had a series of articles in the last few months dealing with
the rebuild of a 1.8 engine. You may want to look at it as reference.

Christos.
From: danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Gary Soiney)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Rear window defogger
Date: 19 Nov 1992 19:42:44 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Keywords: Vdub 71' bug

 the switch is below the dash on the left side, it is a small rocker switch
 there should also be an indicator lamp in the speedo face
 hope this helps
 danno@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: bigfoot@sequent.com (Gregory Smith)
Subject: Re: GTI vs. GTi
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.
Distribution: sqnt
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 92 22:19:22 GMT

aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:


>In a previous article, msirota@ee.rochester.edu (Mark Sirota) says:

>>I have a simple, innocent question.  Why do so many Americans insist on
>>calling it a GTi rather than a GTI?  I know that in Great Britain, it's a
>>GTi.  As far as I know, that's true *only* in Great Britain -- or is it also
>>true in the rest of Europe?
>>
>>I've never seen anyone in the US calling the Rabbit a "Golf", or referring to
>>the Jetta as a "Vento", nobody used "Passat" when talking about the Quantum.
>>Why is there this odd loyalty to the British name of the GTI?

>gee..immediate reaction to this...when you are in a conversation, what is
>the difference between GTI and GTi? nothing. and when you are typing, you
>type "G" and "T" with the same shift key held down, but have to switch
>whenever you go to the "I"..makes it slightly easier to type "i". also, some
>of us read some European car magazines, in which, i'm sure, they refer to the
>GTI as GTi..myself, i was not aware that GTi was only in the UK, others may
>be the same, i just assumed the two to be interchangable, since, in a 
> conversation, it makes no difference which you use.  also, GTI=GTi,
>but Rabbit<>Golf, and Jetta <> Vento, etc in a conversation..u c? this
>would be my guess...
>DREW
>-- 

I think another reason that this phenomenon occurs is that the American
car mags wrote about the GTi models for years before America got the GTI.
In VW enthusiast's minds, the GTi had finally arrived! Also, Audi marketed
a Fox GTi over here for a while, though I don't think that is the reason 
people type the current GTI as "GTi".  -Greg 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: shap5535@mach1.wlu.ca (Jason Shapiro u)
Subject: 200k Yay GTi!!
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Organization: Wilfrid Laurier University
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 07:11:27 GMT



  My '86 GTI just rolled over 200,000km and is still going great! 

  I just wanted to share this proud moment with my fellow VWers.

  I bought it last year and there is no rust or paint fading (slight bubbling
below rear passenger window, and the door seals leak in heavy rain, but what
else is new?).

 The engine and tranny are great and (hopefully) have another 100,000km in 
 them (km, in Canada where the air is clean and the highways are FAST!!)

 Let's hear it for Fahrfenugen!!


			 Jason Shapiro
			 Wilfrid Laurier University
			 Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
			 shap5535@mach1.wlu.ca

The views expressed above may not be the views of WLU as a whole but they 
should be!!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jrk@nittany.tcs.com (John Koper)
Subject: Re: info on jetta
Organization: Teknekron Communications Systems Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 23:37:51 GMT

In article <SUMANA.92Nov13152416@hpcll32.0>, sumana@0 (Sumana Srinavasan) writes:
> hi, I'm the new owner of a 86 Jetta (1.8 Litre gasoline, automatic 
> ...

I have a '86 2 door Jetta w/ manual transmission with approx 140K.  I say
approx because my odometer broke (a common problem).  It has never broken
down (knock on wood) except for a broken fan belt that was easily fixed.
The only thing that I don't like about the car is that it is so easy and
so often broken into (6 times and counting :-( ).

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
John Koper				| jrk@tcs.com
Software Engineer			| 2121 Allston Way, Berkeley, CA 94704
Teknekron Communications Systems, Inc.	| (510) 649-3592
From: mpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (michael.p.lindner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Need Help With Radio
Keywords: radio security electrical
Date: 23 Nov 92 19:02:16 GMT
Distribution: ne
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

I had to replace my battery over the weekend, and my fancy "theft-proof"
radio is now unusable until I enter my secret code.  I have the code,
but apparently the instructions I have for entering it are wrong.  I
tried twice, and the thing locked me out.  I don't want to randomly try
things, because the radio will self-destruct on me.  The procedure I
followed starts by holding down the "REPEAT" and "SCAN" buttons for a
couple of seconds until the word "SAFE" on the display is replaced by
numbers "1000".  After that I am lost as to how to set the numbers.

Help!  Please respond via e-mail, if possible.  Thanks!

Mike Lindner
mikel@attmail.att.com
From: jjd@bbn.com (James J Dempsey)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Do insurance companies hate VWs?
Date: 16 Nov 1992 19:00:47 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

>>   Its not so much that insurance companies hate VW's, it's the fact that car
>>  thieves and stereo snaggers love them. VW's are a popular item to steal.

VW is not totally blameless here.  The small front quarter windows
made VWs very easy targets as did the design of the door handles which
allowed easy break-in via scewdriver. 

VW can't be blamed for the popular (to theives) DIN sized stereo
mounting hole or the nice pseudo high end stereos they install.

VW should be applauded for the new Passat/Corrado and GolfIII/JettaIII
door handles that are supposed to be significantly improved in this
regard.  They should be applauded for the tamper resistant stereo
systems which stop functioning when stolen.  They should be applauded
for making alarms standard equipment on Passat and Corrado.

They obviously realize that it is a problem and are trying to make
things better.  The new names "Golf III" and "Jetta III" are supposed
to divorce the new cars from the old cars insurance history.  Perhaps
this will help insurance rates for those cars.

		--Jim Dempsey--
		jjd@bbn.com
From: dobosz_m@wfooff.enet.dec.com (Mike Dobosz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: CV-joint core dump requested...
Summary: Rookie CV joint questions...advice sought
Keywords: CV joint maintenance
Date: 16 Nov 92 01:25:59 GMT
Organization: p's and q's kept straight -- while you wait


I'll be replacing a CV joint on my '85 VW Quantum next weekend. I've never 
done this job before, but I'm looking forward to trying it.

Sooooo...

I need a CV-joint core dump.  If you've ever...

     o  replaced a CV joint on a Quantum, or
     o  replaced a CV joint on any VW or Audi, or 
     o  replaced a CV joint on any vehicle

...then please tell me of your experiences.

My Quantum had split a boot on the right-front CV joint at some time in the 
fairly-recent past.  I didn't notice it until I was under the car while 
working on replacing the water pump.  There was no indication of a 
degradation in performance from the joint.

I attempted to use a split-boot replacement kit, but I was sold the wrong
replacement kit (there was _no_ way the large clamp was going to close over
the boot...It's presently being held in place by {embarrassed blush} baling
wire. What a hack!).  Additionally, after flushing out the CV joint and
repacking it before utilizing the split boot, I found that the joint was
well and truly giving up the ghost...it sounds pretty rough.  I only hope
that it gets me to the weekend, when I'll have time to do the replacement. 

My options as I see them: 

     o  Rebuild the existing outer CV joint.  (I doubt it.)      
     o  Replace the outer CV joint on the existing shaft.  (Maybe.)      
     o  Buy a new half-shaft, with fresh CV joints on each end.  (Maybe.) 

So perhaps we can look at this as an opportunity to pad the CV-joint section 
of the rec.autos.vw FAQ.  Post to your heart's content, telling of your 
trials, tribulations and accomplishments in the area of CV joint 
replacement.  I'm pretty sure that the maintainer of the FAQ will welcome 
the information.  I'm _certain_ that I will.  Tools, techniques, 
occurrences of Murphy's Law...all are welcomed.

Thanks in advance...
							Mike
-- 
             {decvax, ucbvax, allegra}!decwrl!wfooff.enet!dobosz_m
             dobosz_m%wfooff.enet@decwrl.dec.com 
             dobosz_m@wfooff.enet.dec.com               DoD # 0596
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: javad@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Agha Javad)
Subject: Re: Passat warrantee work - gimme a break!
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 21:36:43 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard 

In article <1992Nov15.194525.28806@colorado.edu> neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K) writes:
>
>Our 24,000 / 2 year just ended.  Here is a list of the warrantee work
>done to date:
>
>rear axle replaced - grossly out of spec
>idle switch replaced
>throttle switch replaced
>front grill repainted (out coating of paint peeled off)
>clock replaced
>1 window motor replaced
>2 window regulators replaced
>ventalation fan replaced
>ventalation vent replaced
>grounds at cylinder head tightened (came off assembly line loose)
>washer jet replaced
>door handle replaced
>front (plastic) grill replaced
>Windshield wiper arm replaced
>passenger light casing replaced
>foot/door panel replaced (kept popping off)
>fuse box lid replaced
>trunk lid adjusted (would hit body)
>lots of service work to get rid of noises in dashboard
>RY Recal (engine monitoring computer)
>
>I have been to the dealer 20 times in the last two years (including
>regular service visits).  My wife and I LOVE the car.  There is
>nothing else like it for the money on the market. Nothing. But we are
>concerned about future maintainance costs now that the warrantee is
>up.
>
>I'm dissapointed in VW.  This car was manufactured with poor quality
>control.  My question is:  IS THIS NORMAL???  This was our first VW
>and might be our last.
>
>Thanks for any feedback,
>Rich
>

Rich

I have a 90 GLI Wolfsburg and feel the same way.  I have 46k on it, I am
on my 3rd distributor, 4th egr valve, turn signal relay replaced after 2yrs.
1month! (70 bucks), recalled water pump, recalled ox sensor, replaced
ecu, replaced knock sensors, etc., etc., but I love the car.  I didn't
think cars like the Integra even compare, but if only they would get
their quality act together!  Incidentally, both your car and mine are made
in Germany, so I guess so much for German engineering and workmanship. 
And oh, yes, I have TONS of dashboard noises.  I hope the next generation
does better.


Javad
From: drew@tcom.stc.co.uk (Scooby Doo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Wheelarch Trim (Fender Flares) Rust Trap???
Date: 17 Nov 1992 09:36:43 GMT
Organization: BNR Europe, New Southgate, London N11 1HB.
NNTP-Posting-Host: bnsgs200.bnr.co.uk
Keywords: FOR SALE- SNOWS

Just wondering....

	Those Wheelarch trims (or fender flares) fitted to top spec
VW's GLi's GTi's etc.... Is there not a tendency to trap water between
the trim and the car body? I live in england and it's damp most of
the time and I don't want premature rust on my wheel arches!!!

Drew.

--
	UK : (081) 945 3726		| The car in front is a Toyota...
Drew	ESN : 6 730 3726	    	| But not for long!! 
Wagar	US : +44 81 945 3726	    	| 
	Internet : drew@bnr.co.uk	| GTi drivers do it faster!