HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: TIME pedal maintenance
Keywords: clipless, time, overhaul, maintenance
Date: 13 Oct 92 14:06:38 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC

In <1992Oct12.155638.11304@unlinfo.unl.edu> holliday@cse.unl.edu (david holliday) writes:

>>Paul Gatker writes:

>> A problem I have had with Time "Racing" pedals is the rear plastic cover 
>>that goes over the major spring. On both pedals the cover just flops around  
>>as the tiny springs in them have escaped to the road. I fixed the problem
>>by prying the covers off completely. Pedals still work fine, are nominally
>>lighter in weight, but aesthetically I can't really tell as I can't see the
>>back of the pedals while I'm riding them.

>I think the covers actually have a useful purpose. Ever been at the start
>line of a criterium and tried to get your foot into the pedal as quickly as
>possible without the covers on your pedal? The covers serve as a "guide" for
>the cleats. Otherwise, it seems that the front cleat has a tendancy to go
>into the large spring in the back, rather than the front of the pedal.
>These are just my observations.

 I just checked out the pedal with a shoe and I see your point. Of course this
function only works when the springs in the cover are holding the cover in the
closed position. On both my pedals they were flopping loosely, adding two extra
noises to my bike to bug me out.

 I did a biathlon Sunday with the covers removed and had no problems engaging
the shoes. I do know where to put them from a years experience, but if I didn't
I could see how I might snag the main spring with the front cleat plate on the
shoe bottom.

 I think I'll try and track down some suitable springs and try and restore the
usefullness of the covers. The ones that come with the pedals are pretty 
whimpy looking. Is this a common problem among the time pedals-- the springs
disengaging and the coverplate flopping?


-- 
*******************************************************************
paul@panix.com                                    COMPULITE GRAPHICS
Brooklyn NY usa                                Design & Consultation
********************************************************************
From: chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Triple chainrings on road bikes
Summary: Yes Sir, I Like 'Em.
Keywords: they're great!
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:41:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: novell.1992Oct15.204157.23673
Organization: Novell, Inc. - Walnut Creek

My road bike is equipped with a 26/38/48 cranks and 12-30 freewheel
(and freehub).  The low is more than low enough for even dirt road
climbs.  In fact, I was thinking of changing over to a 12-28 (I have
"racing-style" rear dropouts, so the changer is pretty close to that
30t cog).  The high isn't quite high enough, so that'll probably get
switched to a 50t.  That would just equal the front derailleur's
24t capacity.  FWIW, the the derailleurs are XC-Pro (f) and XC-Comp
(r). The crank is an XC-Comp w/Sakae rings.  The whole thing shifts
beautifully and lets me ride the bike *anywhere.*  




--
Mark Chandler               Novell, Inc.          510/975-4522
chandler@wc.novell.com      Walnut Creek, CA
==================================================================
     The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: alh@einoed.in-berlin.de (Adrian Le Hanne)
Subject: Re: quality headsets
Organization: Einoed Unix & Netzwerke, Berlin (FRG)
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 11:26:15 GMT

mj@apollo.hp.com (Mark A. Johnson) writes:

>  I am going broke replacing headsets on my road and mountain bikes.  My
>Basso eats up Ultegra headsets every 3k miles, my Bridgestone MTB 
>has gone through 2 Ritchy Comp headsets in less than 500 miles (75% off road),
>and my beater Bianchi w/Shimano 105 (for crit racing and riding in rain) is 
>starting to index at less than 1500 miles.  I have tried loose packing to get 
>some extra miles, but even that does not help much. It is hard to believe with 
>all the recent advances in components, that headsets are still subject to such 
>a high failure rate.  

I'm very happy with the Mavic headset on my MTB. This headset can be locked
with an allen key (like the Onza) and is light and very sturdy. Recommended.

Adrian
-- 
Adrian S. Le Hanne        Einoed Unix & Netzwerke, Koepenicker Str.154, D-1000
alh@einoed.in-berlin.de   Berlin 36. Tel.: 030/611 31 26,  Fax.: 030/611 32 86
  "On a day such as this you should insist on more than the truth" -Pere Ubu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: Building up a frame
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 20:24:24 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.010944.28799@samba.oit.unc.edu> Chris.Alexander@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Chris Alexander) writes:
>	I'm thinking of buying a used frame and building it up with new compo-
>nents. The problem is, I'm not sure how long this will take, and how many 
>extra tools I'll need to buy to do this. Would most bike shops be able to
>build up the frame for me? If so, would it be cheaper to do this myself? I

Thgere are a couple of problems with building up your own bike. 
 
1) It is pretty cheap to have a good shop to assemble it for you.
2) You must know how to properly adjust cone type bearings (headset,
bottom bracket, wheels) or they will wear fast.
3) Many frames are supplied without the bottom brackets and forks
properly prepared. If you get one of these you must take your bike to
a shop anyway to have the special tools employed to fix that problem.
4) You definitely need special tools for the bottom bracket and
brake adjustments etc. Most of these tools are things that you would
normally need for maintenance so this shouldn't be a real problem.

One option is to pay a shop to oversee your assembly and to allow you to
use their special tools or at least show you how they are used. Some shops
will actually allow this.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: Velo News Suspension Review
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 12:48:38 GMT

Mountain Bike Action this month also has a review of a number of
suspension forks.  It also includes tips on how to get more
travel out a pair of Shockblades.


Stu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jscott@vardamir.next.nd.edu (James Scott)
Subject: Re: TIME pedal maintenance
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 17:46:57 GMT

Folx,

All this talk about the functionality and aesthetics of the various parts  
of Time pedals is great, but it doesn't answer my original question about  
servicing the bearings.  Has _nobody_ in net.bikegeek.land ever taken a  
pair of these things apart?

Knee deep in road grit,

James

--
James Scott                                        
jscott@cleese.next.nd.edu
University of Notre Dame                NeXTMail Appreciated
NeXT, Inc. Campus Consultant
(219)283-1599				AUDIX: x5429
Steve Jobs on son Reed:  "We had our own little custom app."
		(NeXTWORLD magazine, Fall 1992)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.sport.triathlon
From: kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner)
Subject: Advice on Kestrels
Keywords: big_bucks, fear_of_cracking
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 19:26:45 GMT

I'm posting this for a poor, ignorant soul without access to the
wisdom of the net.  Please respond directly to him; if this doesn't
work and you post, I'll forward all such postings to him.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I'm thinking of buying a Kestrel 200Sci, which has received
some great reviews, but I'm a little concerned about the
reputation the older Kestrel's have had when it comes to 
cracks.  Does anybody out there know whether the problem with
cracks has been fixed in the newer generation of Kestrel frames?
How are the reliability and lifespan of monocoque frames?
Should I be concerned with frame cracking, even though I'm
only 140-145 lbs?  I'm looking for a very light and stiff
time-trialing bike that I can also use for road races.

--------------------------------------------------------------
    ___                               Chris Liou
   /   |       /  /                   Bellcore - 1C210
  /___/ __    /  / __  __  .__  __    331 Newman Springs Rd.
 /   | /__\  /  / /   /  \ |   /__\   Red Bank, NJ  07701-7020
/___/  \__  /  /  \__ \__/ |   \__    Tel: (908) 758-2390 Fax: (908) 758-0199
				      Email: ccliou@sabre.bellcore.com

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: goell@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov (Jeremy Goell)
Subject: Re: Sensor for Computer
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, NASA/Caltech
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 23:25:07 GMT

In article <00961A52.40E6B3E0@vms.csd.mu.edu>, 2641nabedian@vms.csd.mu.edu writes:

|> Greetings,
|> 	I am an electrical engineering student at Marquette University.  As a 
|> project for one of my classes, I have chosen to build a bicycle computer.  
|> What I need to obtain is a sensor to iterface with our processor (8086) to 
|> obtain the speed of the bicycle.  What I had in mind was some sort of spoke-
|> mounted magnet which, when passing a fork-mounted sensor, would produce a 
|> small electrical signal to be interfaced with the processor.  Does anybody 
|> know where I may be able to obtain this sort of device?  Am I looking at this
|> problem the wrong way?  Are there other (better) ways to acomplish the same
|> task?
|> 
|> 	Any help will be greatly appreciated.
|> 
|> Jay Nabedian
|> 2641nabedian@vms.csd.mu.edu

If it's not considered plagarism or cheating or patent
infringement, go to a bike store and buy one that is
made for the commercial bike computers.  Will cost you
$2-$4.  I'd recommend the Cateye magnet but Vetta makes
one that's a little cheaper and is of the same strength
(in tesla?).  If you can't use it directly, just reverse-
engineer it...  That's just as valuable a skill for an
engineer to develop =).

To the net in general: Vetta and Cateye magnets do seem to
be interchangeable, at least between Cateye Vectra and Vetta
C10.

Michael Batchelder
mpb@nomad.jpl.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: To: kiisaka@uottawa.ca
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 19:42:51 GMT


Sorry about this post but my email keeps getting kicked back.  Anyhow,
regarding your question about purchasing SPDs in Ottawa:

I bought my outfit at Pecco's on Murray street in the Market.  With the
new bike, the upgrade from SR Low Fat pedals to DX SPDs was $70.  This
means that the SPDs go for about $100 - $110.  When I was calling around,
the XTs were going for $129 at the Bike Stop on Bank St and the DXs were 
$119 (the XTs were on sale at that time).

In my opinion, the DX pedals work adequately and unless there was a 10-20
dollar difference in the price, I would go with the DXs.  As far as the
shoes go, I amsurprised to hear that you have problems with the GC Extremes, 
they seemed like a pretty solid shoe (aren't they the ones that Ned Overend wears, of course he doesn't pay for them and may go through several a season, 
I don't know).   All I can really say for sure that it is not worth skimping
and getting the GC Sports. A friend has a pair of Alpinestars (the white ones with the multicoloured splashes on them) and hasn't had any poblems that I
know of.  SIDI makes a good shoe but they are really expensive ($170 US).  
How about AXO shoes or even Shimano M110sor 200s (if you can find them).

Let me know what happens......Stuart
From: conway@cstr.ed.ac.uk (Steve Conway)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: helmet mounted lights?
Date: 7 Oct 92 09:24:25 GMT
	<26597@castle.ed.ac.uk> <CONWAY.92Oct6182952@watt.cstr.ed.ac.uk>
Organization: Dept. of Linguistics, University of Edinburgh

>> After a long day, I said:

> I've also thought about borrowing my friend's Silva head-torch setup
> (used for night orienteering - 30W standard light switchable to 60W if
> I recall correctly) 

I don't know where my brain was last night, but I don't think these
numbers are correct, or even very feasible.  However, the Silva
head-torch *is* very bright, and very expensive, and makes my Petzl
with halogen bulb (itself fairly bright) look feeble.


--
Steve_Conway@edinburgh.ac.uk             _--_     __          0        /
                                        /    \ __/  \_       /|\/    _/ 
Centre for Speech Technology Research  /   _  \       \      \|     /   
and Department of Linguistics,        / __/ \  \       \ __ \/ \  _/    
Edinburgh University, Scotland.      / /     \----------/  \____|/
From: heard@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Glasses mounted rear-view mirror
Date: 15 Oct 92 09:44:23 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology

A few years ago I saw an ad for a cyclist's rear view
mirror which clipped to a glasses frame. I didn't
follow it up at the time, but now some my ride to work
is in heavy traffic and would like to try one. Does
anyone 

1. Have any experience with these? 

2. Know if they come in right-hand models for countries
   where you cycle on the left? 

3. Know brand names, availibility, cost? 

Thanks
Ronno
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Bike weatherproofing (WAS: 0 Re: caged vs. loose bearings)
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 16:05:18 GMT

In <1992Oct9.040404.23335@beaver.cs.washington.edu> pardo@cs.washington.edu (David Keppel) writes:

>* On several bikes I've drilled holes in the center of the hub shells.
>Either cover the hole with oil hole clip or drill a larger hole and
>insert a mini grease fitting.  Inject grease using a chainsaw greaser
>with a pointy tip.

>Bottom brackets can be done the same way, but you need to make sure
>that grease doesn't go up the various frame tubes.  I haven't any
>experience with bottom bracket grease fittings, so I don't feel
>qualified to comment.  Anybody else?

I considered modifying my conventional bottom bracket this
way, possibly using the Phil Wood bottom bracket zerk kit,
but then I saw a SunTour XC-Pro bottom bracket with Grease
Guard on sale for less than the zerk kit, so I put it in and
have had no trouble with it.  The Grease Guard system uses
small grease ports in the centers of the crank bolts, and
takes less than a minute to regrease the bottom bracket and
clean up the old grease.

>* There are various anti-sieze compounds that will help on the various
>non-moving joints -- between seatpost and frame, stem and forks, etc.

Keeping the seatpost well-lubed also reduces the chance of
water getting in around it and running down to your bottom
bracket -- another big plus.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: uphhsbt@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Subject: Velo News Suspension Review
Reply-To: uphhsbt@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 02:15:51 GMT

Awhile ago I said that I would e-mail the recent Velo-News review of suspension
products to anyone who wanted it.  Due to the large number of replies I am
posting it here.  Mostly it will just be a data table identical to the table
in the News.  One thing to remember is that a lot of this data could be con-
sidered "out of date."  For instance, Specialized is coming out with a new
fork which has adjustable preload (similar to the Mag 20's only supposedly a
wider range), the Rock Shox Mag-21's are coming out as well as an elastomer
version, and the new Manitou 2's are also on the way.

Product		Price($)	Weight(g)	Length(cm)	Travel(in)
Allsop stem	 225		634		n/a		3
AMP Research	 430		1112		42.8		2
ATZ		 500 		1813		41.9		2
IRD		 370 		1358		42.8		1.9
IRD Ti		 425		1326		42.8		1.9
Lawill Leader	 390		1702		43.5*		2.8
Manitou		 390		1499		41.0		1.5
Marzocchi XC300  400		1609		41.5		1.8
ProForx		 330		1499		43.2		2
Rebound		 450		1339		41.3		1.8
Rock Shox MAG20  400		1269		41.0		1.8
Scott		 250		1342		41.3		2
Specialized	 330		1455		42.0		1.8
Tange Shockblade 300		1305		40.9		1.5
Trek DDS3	 325		1534		41.2		2
Trek DS2	 250		1526		41.0		2

* the fork will settle 1cm when rider sits on bike
The weight of the ATZ fork includes a 1.5lb fork since it is an add on.

I recently heard that the Shockblades don't get anywhere near 1.5in of travel
without serious owner modification.  

In terms of how retro-fitting a suspension fork will affect the way your bike
handles, a lot will determine on how long your present rigid fork is. 
Typically they range from 39-40 cm so the shorter forks listed here will affect
the handling of your bike the least.  Obviously the Allsop stem avoids this.
By the way the travel for the Allsop stem is for the 150mm version.  A 135mm
version will shorten the travel to around (I'm pulling this from memory so it
may be wrong) 2 inches.

Personally I'm looking at the Allsop stem, Rock Shox, the new Specialized
fork, the Rebound and Manitou 2's.  I want the suspension to keep the front 
wheel going where I want it to go, ie. it's gotta be laterally stiff.  This 
leads to three contenders (in my mind) - the Allsop stem, the Rebound fork,
and the Manitou's.

If you would like specific information on some of these forks, I suggest 
checking out the mags.  If you can't find anything on a fork you're interested
in, let me know and I will try to find some for you.  I will not post a summary
of the entire article with each fork's pluses and minuses.  I suggest
subscribing to Velo News.  There address is:

Velo News
Circulation Dept.
PO Box 53397
Boulder, CO 80322-3397

Brett Taylor
uphhsbt@hylite.oscs.montana.edu
From: jbrandt@hplred.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 00:51:58 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: 0 Re: caged vs. loose bearings
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Eric Praetzel writes:

> After 1 year of commuting I find that everything on my bike is
> rust-welded together.  I can't get the crank arms off.  At the end
> of winter my BB bearings were clicking and binding sometimes.  I
> could not get it appart so I just kept riding and figured I would
> heave the bike when it died.  Well its still going. The bearings are
> gone and the axel is now riding on the cones.
> ...

I don't know what you think is worth telling about your apparent
ineptitude in bicycle maintenance.  If the bike is really in the
condition you describe, the high frequency squeaking and chain red
with rouge is enough to be an insult the ears of other riders.  It so
much as advertises an inability to foresee that this can lead to
failure of an axle, pedal, crank or chain and cause injury.

I see no reason to be proud of such wasteful behavior.  A bicycle may
not be waterproof but it is built to withstand foul weather when used
moderately.  The condition of the bike probably isn't as bad you
describe but the message one could derive from its description is that
you are proud of being a true mechanical klutz.

> However, the only way to remove/install it is with a hammer and that
> is getting tiresome.  But at least I always have the right tool to
> straighten the axel at hand.  So does anyone know anything about
> chrome plated steel 'welding' to hi-carbon steel?

I suppose the description of willful neglect isn't enough to prove the
case so to make sure, you cite Fred Flintstone's arsenal as your
favorite tool.

I'm not so sure you really want to know about welding.  Your question
seems to be more of the same destructive bravado as the description of
the bike, however...

Welding by friction is a common way of welding dissimilar metals but
in your case the chrome and underlying nickel and copper are merely
alloying elements in an otherwise friction weld.  There is no cold
welding of which one often hears.  There is heat at the interface just
as there is no dry rot.  It is only dry when discovered as the cold
weld is cold when observed.

Welding of dissimilar and similar materials is often accomplished by
the method known as inertia welding.  This technique was developed by
the Russians to weld such things as high carbon steel clevises to
stainless hydraulic piston rods for heavy civilian and military
applications.  Caterpillar tractor uses this method extensively. It
produces a weld over the entire interface with a minimal heat affected
zone.  The the rotating shaft is pressed against the static clevis
with great force.

I do not doubt that this was discovered and developed by someone who
had a keen eye for observing machinery that failed for lack of
lubrication.  On the other hand I don't think your rust bike is part
of such an experiment.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System)
Subject: Re: Built-in steering lock on an old bike?
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: SMIS, Massey University
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 00:49:17 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.151151.11247@waikato.ac.nz>, jrdodd@waikato.ac.nz
wrote:
> 
> I was at the local tip (rubbish dumb) the other day and found an old
> bike frame that intregued me.  I couldn't determine make or model,  but
> it had the following features:
> 
> The forks were made of two seperate tubes each,  joined at the crown and 
> the other end;
> The brakes were similar to cantilevers only involved a few more pulleys;
> And most interesting was the steering lock built into the frame.  This was
> like having a small film cannister welded at the join between the down tube
> and the headset tube (wrong term I know).
> 
> Do any netters know about such steering locks?

Indeed I do -- the bike I commute on has one!  I was fortunate enough to
find one which still had a key (very rare) when I was in the market for a
commuter.

Mine also has forks as you describe -- I can't figure out why they're made
that way, unless they were perceived to be more stylish in the 50's when it
was made.

The brand of my bike is a Humber (who also made cars and motorcycles), but
I have also seen the same steering locks on British Raleigh bikes of that
era.

--
Phil Etheridge               P.Etheridge@massey.ac.nz
Macintosh Consultant         Phone: +64+6-356-9099 x8689
SMIS, Massey University      Fax:   +64+6-350-5611
Palmerston North, NZ         40*23'S 175*37'E,    GMT+13
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: Mounting Avocet on Manitou2
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 15 Oct 92 01:32:30 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech

In article <1992Oct14.161126.11071@ra.oc.com>, jlance@dbaix.oc.com (Lance
Jablonski) wrote:
>
> but, I finally got my new Manitou2, and it looks like I'll
> have to glue the damn sensor onto the fork. Would someone please
> post or email me the appropriate method for doing this. Please
> include type of glue required, how long it will adhere, or if
> you suggest going with the rear wheel sensor(BOO!) tell me why.

I went to the hardware store and bought a white nylon cable hanging
strap for $0.19. They had several different diameters. It wasn't a
PERFECT fit but it does the job.

        _______
      /         \
     /           \
    |    fork     |
    |    goes     |      screw
    |    here     |        |
     \             \       v
       \             \_________
         \_____________________
                        sensor
                      goes here


forgive this cheesy ASCII graphic.

  --scott
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech