From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Setting up a darkroom...
Keywords: fogging, developers, darkroom, old enlargers
Date: 16 Nov 92 22:59:59 GMT
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <1e8meuINNlt8@uwm.edu> dannmann@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Harley Wagner) writes:
>Howdy, networld.  I just finished making purchases to round out a darkroom
>at my home.  Now I have some questions about how to go about starting
>working in it.
>
>I purchased a used Opemus IIa enlarger, made in Czechoslovakia, probably
>before I was born.  (judging from the yellowing of the warranty and the
>style of the typography..)  This enlarger seems to have been set up to
>enlarge 2.25 x 2.25 negatives, which might have suited when it was new, but
>causes me to have a minor headache.  While the negative carrier has glass
>plates in it to hold a 35mm negative with, the lens isn't exactly suited to
>larger enlargements. (With the head at the top of the pole, I can MAYBE make
>a little smaller than an 8x10 enlargement, with no room for cropping.) The
>lens is currently a 75mm lens.

Yup, you need a 50mm lens.

>Unfortunately, I do not have the dimensions of the bayonet at hand right
>now, but does anyone know if I can buy a smaller lens for this enlarger?
>(has anyone HEARD of it?)  Also, somewhere along the line before I purchased
>it, someone made a different lensboard for it, but no lens.  Could I just
>purchase a 50-55mm lens that fits the new mount and attach it to the
>enlarger?  Or would I have to worry about the different focal lengths?  (if
>so, would it just be a simple fix, or would I have to whip out the tired old
>physics text?)  Oh, and if this is any help:  The lenses they mention in the
>manual are made by/called "Belar".

Bayonet??? I would hope that your enlarger uses a standard 39mm screw thread.
If it does, you should be able to use any 50mm enlarging lens.  You may have
to get a 39mm jam nut to hold it to the new board. Take it down to your
friendly local camera store and ask.

>On to the chemistry side of my questions.
>  I purchased a gallon bottle of Ilford Universal Paper Developer and a
>half-gallon of Ilford Universal Fixer.  When I purchased the enlarger, the
>seller tossed in some old chemistry.  While I don't plan on using the old
>dektol/d-76, etc, there was a bottle of kodak indicator stop bath.  Since
>this is mostly acetic acid and an acidity indicator of some sort, I don't
>figure it would go bad.  My question is:  Will this work with the Ilford
>chemicals I am using, or will I need to shell out a few bucks for the
>genuine Ilford chemie?  (or can I be cheap and use a water stop?)

Go ahead and use the Indicator Stop. You need to be *sure* that development 
has stopped before you fix, if you don't you'll get staining. Some people
have good luck with a water stop, but I just don't trust it (especially since
the developer concentration in the water will increase as you process - unless
you change the water frequently). I use Ilford paper developer, Kodak Indicator
Stop, and Kodafix. It works fine.

>
>Assorted other stuff that might cause problems:
>A computer with green LED on top of it to indicate power. (low wattage, I'm
>sure..)

Yeah, but Multigrade is somewhat green-sensitive. I'd put some black electricians
tape over the LED just to be safe.

>2 flourescent "bulb-style" fixtures in the ceiling fan, which tend to have
>an afterglow.

This could be a problem - as I recall, not all of the afterglow from
fluorescents is in the visible portion of the spectrum. If they're emitting
UV, you're in *big* trouble. Any chance you could:

a) remove them while you're printing, or

b) cover them with something opaque?

>
>
>  Thanks-
>   Dann
>
>P.S. Should I leave the ground glass in the enlarger, or should I take it
>out?  What's the advantage either way?  Thanks.

It's probably there to diffuse the illumination a bit - it's possible 
you may get uneven exposures without it. 
I'd leave it in.
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