HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: 195/50/15 vs. 205/50/15
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 13:41:07 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.035216.28664@nezsdc.icl.co.nz> derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
>In article <1992Aug14.103223.2686@kth.se> love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer) writes:
>>I spoke to an friend of fmine, who used to do development for Pirelli 
>>He warned me about increased stress on the wheel-bearings if you change to
>
>I have heard this warning related to Landrovers and other off road vehicles.
>People who fit them with wide tyres are putting extra stress on the wheel
>bearings etc.  This is even more important if the vehicle is to be used off 
>road where there will be greater stresses placed on the wheels. 


True story time here - the guy I bought my '55 Chevy from had chrome reverse
wheels on it for awhile in the '70s. '55-'57 Chevs have ball bearings on the
front wheels, which are not noted for their longevity. Due to construction,
chrome reverse wheels have a significantly different offset than stock wheels.
He finally swapped in front brake drums and roller bearings off a '62 Chevy
'cause he couldn't get more than a few _hundred_ miles out of a set of ball
bearings. That at least solved the symptom, although not the problem.

If you're doing ANY suspension changes on your car, make sure you know what
you're doing. Your car's reliabilty - and maybe your life - are at stake.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: $400 to fix oil problem in Cutlass?
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 17:21:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 There are no oil lines to the engine. All oil passages are internal. They
can't be 'cleaned out' except by either running some solvent snake oil
theough them or disassembling the engine and tanking/blasting the block.
I doubt that 'clogged oil lines' contributed to the poor running of the car.
If the lines were truly clogged, you'd be likely to have a more spectacular
failure.

 I doubt any sort of rebuild would be done for $400, not even a ring job,
given that it requires pulling the engine and near total disassembly.
(although some people will drop the pan and leave the crank in place
thinking it's easier). The description sounds like nothing I would do to
chase an oil control problem.

 If the oil return holes in the heads were obstructed you could accumulate
oil in the top end, possible causing some oil fouling. It's difficult to 
clog them though unless foreign matter has been introduced or maintenance
has been very, very neglected.

 I expect that maybe this car was tuned for the lowlands and was maybe a bit
lean to start with, and the higher altitude was just too much for it. If
your daughter's description is verbatim I think she ran into a tourist tax
collector. Resetting the mixture on the carb is probably what actually
happened, along with adjusting the wallet a bit leaner. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Daryl S Spano)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tough electrical question
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:15:13 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Loral Western Development Labs

O.K. Here is one that has my mechanic dumbfounded.

Every year (for the last three years) my six year warrenteed battery goes
bad.  The brand name is Atlas and is sold at Chevron dealers.  Each year
I get it replaced, and the new one goes bad by the next year.

They tested the charging system on the BEAR computer and it said that the
alternator is bad.  They then tested the battery and it said the battery
is bad.  Upon replacing the battery with a fresh one the machine said that
the alternator is GOOD. The rest of the charging system checks out.  The
drain on the battery when the motor is off is negligible.

As long as the battery is good, everything else is good.  When the battery
is bad, the charging system reads bad.

Any ideas?
                                  Daryl
                                  dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com

The views expressed herein are not the views of Loral or WDL.
They are just the misc. ramblings of an overworked/underpaid person looking
for an outlet to vent his frustrations.  None of the above should be considered
fact.  If your still reading this, you should have figured out it is another
dumb disclaimer and gave up. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: stevenh@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (steven.t.heinsius)
Subject: Re: Subaru billows white smoke...
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 13:56:38 GMT

Take out all of the spark plugs and look them over
(look in the cylinderfor water, the headgasket is probably leaking
antifreeze/water into a cylinder-- if you do the job
change the oil to- sometimes the water gets into the 
oil and make "chocolate milk").
My guess is --- head gasket.
$50 if you do it yourself or $500 for a shop
to do it.
Steve
ps i would guess it is the cylinder by the timming belt.

----------------
From article <1992Aug18.190511.17756@panix.com>, by nate@panix.com (Nate Clark):
> Quick question:  I have an '85 Subaru with approx. 130k miles. 
> The car's in excellent condition, with one exception: it's just
> started billowing white exhaust.  I have it parked, and start
> it every week to let the oil circulate, etc.  Last week the car
> started fine, but then suddenly seemed to lose compression.  The
> engine killed immediately. I was able to restart the thing, but
> things still don't feel right.  Anybody have experience with this
> sort of thing?  Is it possible I'm just seeing the results of
> condensation in the engine (we did have a cold/hot/wet weather
> spell), or more likely there's a problem with a cracked cylinder
> or something?  Any ideas would be appreciated.
> 
> I was getting ready to unload the car, so two questions: how much
> would it take to repair this kind of ailment?  And assuming I don't have
> it fixed and just try to sell it, what's it going to cost me in 
> street value? 
> 
> Thanks in advance...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: peter@access.digex.com (peter baltimore)
Subject: Getting scratches out of new car finish -do you know how?
Keywords: Paint, Scratches
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 21:25:51 GMT

I have a new car with some scratches on the trunk lid.  You can just barely
feel them with your fingernail. The dealer says the only way to get them out
is to repaint the trunk.  The car has a metallic color and clear coat finish.
If anyone has any information on waxes, safe compounds or other ideas, I would 
like to hear from you. Personal e-mail can be sent to peter@access.digex.com



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Repairs To My Car (newbie)
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 10:02:49 GMT

In <1992Aug17.232641.3057@Newbridge.COM> robc@Newbridge.COM (Rob Craig) writes:

>Faced with a repair bill for about four hundred bucks I figured
>perhaps it was time to start doing things for myself.  The two
>current problems with my car are:

>1) The timing belt is toast.
>     - how hard would it be for a newbie (to home car repair) to
>       fix this?
No SO hard, but if you screw up, a lot can be damaged.

>     - I understand that I'd have to remove enough to reach the
>       timing belt
That is right. Try to imagine if you can get it all back.

>     - I've got to install a new one in the right position
That is easy. Mark the crankshaft & the engine and the camshaft & the
 cylinderhead with Tipp-Ex (correction fluid for typing)
and be sure they DON'T turn after removing the belt.

>     - and I've got to use a timing (strobe) light on it
No you don't. The trouble is that you Americans speak of a "timing belt"
while you mean a distributor belt. That belt can be put on right
or wrong, and cannot be adjusted like the timing of the ignition.
So you don't need a dynamic timing device like a stroboscope.

>     - if this is something I can do myself, where would I look for
>       details?  (I've got a Chilton's(sp?) manual for my car, an
>       84 Acadian, but it assumes more background knowledge than I
>       possess)
Buy a better manual (Haynes). 

The hard part of the belt replacement is the adjustment and the proper
working of the tension device. This tensions your belt with a spring
and must work OK. Be sure that you fully understand how it works,
that it can move freely and only tighten it after your engine runs fine.


>2) The rad is toast.
>     - this seems like something I should be able to do myself
>     - I just get another one (used/reconditioned), rip off the
>       hoses, and put them on the new one?
Yes. You have a car that everybody had some five years ago?
Great. Go straight to the junkyard where you can learn a great deal
by ripping cars apart for the parts that you need. After all: if you
fit junkyard parts, it saves you alot of money and since you have
disassembled a car twice (on the yard and your own) you KNOW how to
put it togeteher again.

>     - again, where do I go for more detailed info?
To the junkyard, equipped with the right tools and a better manual.

eur
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mpalmer@encore.com (Mike Palmer)
Subject: HONDA PRELUDE wiper skips/jumps/nasty!
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 12:46:07 GMT
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation

From day one, the wipers on my 86 prelude has never been nice & smooth.  They
don't glide across the windshiled, but they skip & jump across.  Using the
fast speed improves things, but I don't like that pace.  I've tried new blades,
even the triple edge.   The Honda dealer is no help.   Anyone got a solution?


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: djw@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (d.j.wasser)
Subject: Ford Explorer Problem
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 13:10:18 GMT

My '91 Ford Explorer cannot be put into
4 wheel drive when it's at operating temperature,
i.e., after being driven (in 2 wheel drive mode)
for , say a half hour. It *will* enter the 4 wheel
drive mode when it's cold, e.g., first thing in
the morning.

Any ideas, similar problems, solutions?

Thanks.

Dan Wasser
danw@alux2.att.com
From: bdl@cruiser.uucp (Bob Lombard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Toyota Landcruiser
Keywords: speakers...
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 13:34:36 PDT
Distribution: usa
Organization: what? me organized? no way!

crs@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Charles Spillman) writes:

> > Mechanically the car's fine except for the speedo cable.  However,
> > I need some music in the thing.  The previous owner had installed a 
> > stereo, and I have speakers (2 6x9 ovals, and two cheap surface mounts)
> > but no place to stick them.

  The best idea I've come up with yet for the speakers is to use
surface mount speakers in a plywood panel cut to fit below the dash
OVER the side vents..  You lose the vent action but all they do is
suck in nice hot engine air anyway....  Rear speakers are standalone
plywood boxes covered with indoor/outdoor carpet.. commercially available
as 'kickers' i think.

  The stereo is in panel mounted in the glovebox.  I've also seen them 
in a box under the front seat.

  You WILL need an amplifier..'Cruisers ain't known for being quiet !:)

  These ideas worked for me & my '72


*****************************************************************
* Bob Lombard ||  bdl@cruiser.uucp  || 418 Village Center Drive *
*             ||                    || Encinitas, Ca. 92024     *
*  |~~|_                                                        *
*  |    :           "If it ain't green and it ain't old,        *
*  '0-0-''..../\..   .. it ain't my truck                       *
*****************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 21 Aug 92 16:25:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
-> I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
-> train in it...

 Practically any RWD four or six would work.  It'd be best to buy a
whole wrecked car; that's usually much cheaper than trying to buy an
engine and trans at a junkyard.  Call your insurance adjuster - they're
a prime source.  <grin>

 A 240/260/280 Nissan six from a Z car or Maxima would be good, or the
Toyota six.  The Chevy 60 degree 2800 V6 from the S-10 pickup or F-car
would also be good.  These engines are all available with 5-speed
overdrive boxes, just the ticket for a sporty TR3.

 I don't remember if the clutch on the TR is hydraulic, cable, or
mechanical, but you could save some work if the one on the engine
matched the car.
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: RMI-25 cooling system treatment
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:11:55 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Aug12.224443.17598@nuchat.sccsi.com>, kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com (Kevin Brown) writes:
> In article <26439@life.ai.mit.edu> pwu@pop-tarts.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
> >An important function of antifreeze is, in my opinion, anti-boiling.  If the
> >cooling system treatment RMI-25 does not raise the boiling temperature of
> >water much, I would hesitate to use it with plain water in a car designed to
> >use antifreeze, regardless other promises.
> 
> While the boiling point of the fluid is raised by the antifreeze, the
> antifreeze will also reduce the heat transfer capacity of the fluid.
> 
> The primary method of increasing the boiling point of the fluid is to put
> it under pressure.  This is why most automotive cooling systems run at 15
> psi or so over atmospheric.
> 
> Antifreeze is just that: something to keep the fluid from freezing.  The
> "coolant" term for it is really a misnomer.  Antifreeze also has corrosion
> inhibitors and lubricants which prevent the passages from corroding and
> help lubricate the water pump.
> 
> If you're having cooling problems, and want to increase the cooling capacity
> of your cooling system, running straight water works much better than running
> a water/antifreeze combination.  But in doing so, you lose the other 
> properties provided by antifreeze.
[sig deleted]

Kevin, IMHO you've over simplified Antifreeze properties.  Your right
that antifreeze does reduce the heat capacity/volume of the cooling
fluid but it also reduces the water surface tension to allow it to
flow with less resistance throughout the system.  I don't believe the
slight increase in heat capacity of plain water would reduce the
chance of localized boiling if an antifreeze mix with a higher boiling
point is having a problem dealing with boiling.

You could probably play with some of the polymer/silicone/? based
chemicals on the market the reduce water surface tension, to increase
flow rate within the cooling system.  I recall that in London, UK,
their public works is using it in some of the sewer systems that are
at their peak flow capacity, to increase flow rate by 10%, to delay
other more drastic measures.  I've read of speculations where it was
also used in tests by submaries, torpedoes, and some of the prominent
sail boat races.  ... for what that's worth ...
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 -> 4.3L V6 swap help
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:31:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: mlb.1992Aug19.123152.12847
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Oh, as far as transmissions; I believe if you end up with a Buick V-6 you
need a BOP-pattern (Buick/Olds/Pontiac) transmission. I have had both a
BW T-5 and a TH350 behind my Buick 3.8 (that's 231 in dog years). Both were 
out of Buick donors. Chevy transmissions have different bolt patterns on the
bell housing I believe.

 Of course anything will fit if you try hard enough. One of the magazines
had a 454 S-10 the other month. Some assembly required.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Blueprinting - What is it.
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 17:53:04 GMT

In article <66032@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt8166a@prism.gatech.EDU (DOERSCHUK,DAVID OAKES) writes:
[description of blueprinting]
>1.  Take a die grinder and smooth the interior of the ducts.
>
>2.  Put the sheet of blue carbon-paper-like material between
>    the ducts, and bolt the ducts together.  Then unbolt'em.
>    From the pattern of blue carbon on the 2 duct faces (i.e.
>    the exhaust manifold and the head) and also by looking at the
>    pattern on the blue sheet itself, you can figure out what
>    parts of the manifold or head need to be ground away to 
>    make the junction smooth.

then what's porting and polishing?
is that the same as blueprinting?

-teddy
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Fire Extinguisher - Halon or Dry Chemical
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 09:38:07 -0500

 SR> I was looking to purchase a good extinguisher to carry in the car.
 SR> 
 SR> I know halon is probably a lot less messy but what other advantages
 SR> does one have over the other. 

Halon is especially good for extinguishing a fire in an enclosed space (e.g.
engine compartment or car interior). Simply leave the hood or doors closed and
spray in the halon through the radiator or partially open window or door.

Halon is more dangerous in that while not toxic, it will not support life. So if
someone is unconcious or trapped inside a car, you have to be very careful about
using halon inside the passenger compartment.

 SR> 
 SR> What is a good size.

The largest size that is convenient to carry inside the passenger compartment.
An extinguisher stored in the trunk is likely to inaccessible in case of a
serious collision.
From: DKAMERUD@cmsa.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: improved Anti-theft technology
Date: 12 Aug 92 16:13:46 GMT
Organization: GM Research Labs

>In article <SLEATOR.92Aug10094459@SPADE.PC.CS.CMU.EDU>
>sleator@CS.CMU.EDU (Daniel Sleator) writes:
>>   .... there are
>>simple techniques the manufacturers could use to make car theft
>>terribly difficult for anybody without a tow truck ...

The thread on electronic deterrence of driveaway theft in the last 2 days
has both appealing ideas and an awareness of some associated difficulties
(cost of coded keys, inconvenience when keys are lost, reliability). In
addition, the US gov't insists that you turn a key, not just use a card or
a code.  GM's working on a neat idea to make our PASS-KEY even more effective
while making key replacement cheaper.  It is so darned clever, I wish I could
tell you about it.  By the way, the original poster speculated that car makers
don't even care about theft.  I know of at least one that does.  You'd be
surprised.

 Dana B. Kamerud, GM Research & Environmental Staff
 (personal opinion -- not acting as a spokesman for Gen'l Motors Corp.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: 5 pt harnesses
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1992 01:23:51 GMT

In article <1992Aug15.030101.3085@ulowell.ulowell.edu> hdasilva@cs.ulowell.edu (Herbert DaSilva) writes:
>  Hold the phone, son!!  I'm pretty sure that DOT just requires that
>  the original safety belts not be removed from the car, not that you
>  can't ADD a 4-point or 5-point.  I'm building an SCCA IT race car,
>  and it plainly says you have to leave the driver and passenger belts
>  in a car that will be driven on the street so it will pass
>  inspection.  However, some states are more picky than the DOT, and
>  that is a different story...

the trick is that the best way to mount the lap belts is using
the factory hard points on the floor, by taking out the bolts
that secure the seatbelts and installing eyebolts (the thread pattern
is very standard, and the appropriate eyebolts are common.)  however,
apparently this constitutes tampering with the stock restraint system
(despite the fact that its actual safety is unchanged), and is so illegal
according to the the US DOT.

whether or not you'll ever be caught on this is another matter entirely.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 tr3 no engine go jap
Date: 14 Aug 92 11:50:41 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

>>  saundersb@gtephx.UUCP (Bary Saunders) sez:
>>
>>  > I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
>>  > I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
>>  > train in it...
As an owner of a '67 Sunbeam Alpine for 7 years, I know a little about
the reliability of british cars. The problem is not the engine, it is
the Lucas electrical system. If you put a jap or any other engine in,
this problem will still be there. The british engines, at least the
Sunbeam's is very robust. The electrics leave alot to be desired. My
Alpine has two fuses for the whole system!  Put the correct engine in
and rewire the beast and you love it for years. Put a japanese motor
in and don't rewire it and you will have a junker that you can't get
two cents for.  Just my slanted opinion......

   O
   I\   Brian Kiviat (301)227-1833       Sometimes the truth is hidden,
   I \  kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil         Like a shadow in the darkness.
  /     David Taylor Model Basin                  -Master Po
   \___________________________
			     \\
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Vel Natarajan)
Subject: DOT 3 vs 4 Brake Fluid
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 00:25:59 GMT

I just had my brake fluid replaced.  The garage put in
DOT-4 brake fluid, but when I got home, the lid on my
fluid reservoir said "Dot-3" only.

What's the difference between 3 and 4?  I was told that
4 mainly had higher max operating temps.  Anything
else?  Is it OK for my car?  I've got an '89 Probe GT
by the way.  Thanks for any info.

Vel

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vel Natarajan                    Motorola, Inc.
nataraja@rtsg.mot.com            Cellular Infrastructure Group
                                 Arlington Heights, IL