HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hollombe@polymath.tti.com (The Polymath)
Subject: Re: hello
Organization: The Cat Factory
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 01:30:02 GMT

In article <corey.0fb6@amiganet.chi.il.us> corey@amiganet.chi.il.us (Corey Sweeney) writes:
}Would someone like to tell me what mensa does?

PARTY! (-:

The Polymath (aka: Jerry Hollombe, M.A., CDP, aka: hollombe@polymath.tti.com)
Head Robot Wrangler at Citicorp
3100 Ocean Park Blvd.   (310) 450-9111, x2483
Santa Monica, CA  90405
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bauer@informatik.uni-ulm.de (Christian Bauer)
Subject: Re: Nikon N8008S vs. N90 - opinions wanted
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: University of Ulm
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 11:37:28 GMT


And don't forget an old feature, if you don't believe in the
multifield metering, the N90/F90 has a spot metering option 
which can be seriously important for some cases a computer can
not imagine!

Christian Bauer

bauer@informatik.uni-ulm.de
From: annette@boole.seas.ucla.edu (Annette K. Nasif)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Imaging systemSh
Summary: Imaging system for rocket
Date: 17 Nov 92 09:21:09 GMT
Organization: SEASnet, University of California, Los Angeles


    I am involved with a group of UCLA students who are attempting to
build an amateur rocket capable of climbing to 200,000ft and transmitting
back images to the ground.  I would appreciate any input anyone could give
me on what type of imaging system would be the best.  I would have liked to
use a videocamera, but the people working on telemetry say that it would be
too difficult to transmit back that much info.  I therefore need to find 
some sort of camera, the lighter and smaller the better, that can take a 
series of snapshots (at least 8 bit resolution) that can be transmitted
and received on the ground.  Any info that you can give me would be greatly
appreciated.  Thank you
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need advice : what about Cambridge for e-mail order ?
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:16:14 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: rec
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Nov23.143918.11712@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> shc1@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (culp,steven) writes:

>
>let me tell you my experience with Cambridge.  Several months ago I ordered
>several thousand dollars of equipment from them.  I was constantly lied to,
>they told me my equipment was in stock when it wasn't, later they told me it
>had been shipped when it hadn't (I asked them for the UPS shipper number and
>their computer suddenly went down; I found their computer went down at the
>most opportune times for them.)
>
>I also called to see if they had a particular lens in stock.  Their computer
>went down.  They told me to call back in an hour.  An hour and a half later,
>their computer was still down.  They told me to call back first thing in
>the morning.  At 8:30 the next morning, I called back.  They told me to
>call back after 9:00 (their compouter didn't come up until 9:00, supposedly).
>At 9:15 they told me to call back after 1:00.  At 3:00 they told me to call
>back the next day.  Two days later their computer was still down!
>
>I eventually did receive everything I ordered, but in my opinion, the amount
>of money I saved was definately NOT worth the hassle and frustration I had
>to go through.  I cannot, NOT recommend these guys enough.
>
>Steve.


Has anyone considered printing postings like these off and mailing them
to Cambridge "Attention: Director Customer Relations"?  Seems as if they'd
sit up and notice if they received a couple of hundred letters containing
similar testimonials within a couple of days of their having been posted.
Maybe not the first time but maybe the second time?  Third time?  ...

Why stop at Cambridge?  How 'bout Adorama?  B & H?  I just posted a
horror story today ...

Barry

--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.  | PROGRAM: n. A magic spell cast over a com-  |
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com      | puter allowing it to turn one's input into  |
|                              | error messages.  tr.v. To engage in a pas-  |
|                              | time similar to banging one's head against  |
|                              | a wall, but with fewer opportunities for    |
|                              | reward.                                     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Why Black Corners on The Pictures?
Date: 21 Nov 1992 12:46:48 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


The most likely explaination is that you used a wide angle lens/zoom
position and the filter is causing vignetting at the corners..this
is a common problem with filters and wide angle lenses, and
you have to either make sure that the filter ring diameter is
wide enough to stay beyond the corners of the frame, or get a step-up
ring adapter .  The reason for the corner vignetting is that the lens
projects a circular imace on the film, and the circle has to be wide
enough to includ the entire rectangle of the frame...anything that
narrows the size of the circle will cause vignetting on certain wide
angle lenses...oir any other lens depending on the situation, which
is why we have different lens shade lengths for different focal length lenses.

Brian
From: thull@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Scott Thull)
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:02:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Using a Polaroid back
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

In rec.photo, sli@athena.mit.edu (Sheung L Li) writes:

> Does anyone have any experiences with NPC backs?  Specifically, I'm 
> interested in the difference between the NPC back and the various 
> incarnations of the Mamiya RZ Polaroid back.
> 
  The main difference in the Mamiya backs that I am aware of is that their
support for the RZ film advance interlock mechanism.

  The older backs (Pre-model 3) required the camera be placed in 
the multi-exposure mode to allow the shutter to be cocked.  This is 
because there is a gear drive on the RZ body that expects to have
some amount of resistance applied by the film back.  The older 
Polaroid backs did not apply this resistance, therefore the body
had to be told to ignore this interlock.

  The model 3 back applies the necessary resistance (although I think the 
gear actually does nothing) so that the user can leave the body in the
normal exposure mode.  Evidently people would use the older polaroid backs
and then mount their roll film backs but forget the multi-exposure setting
was enabled.  Several wasted shots later ;-( they would discover the
error.  The new back prevents most of these errors.

  There may be other differences but this is the only one I've heard of.

> 
Scott Thull
thull@fc.hp.com
From: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: FOR SALE: Nikkormat FT-3 Camera
Date: 17 Nov 92 03:53:16 GMT
Organization: UCSB Physics Department

Nikkormat FT-3 Camera (chrome)
 o in excellent condition
 o includes 50mm F2.0 Nikon AI lens with protecting filter
 o has mirror lock-up, depth of field preview, and self timer
 o match needle metering with needle visible in the finder + externally
 o shutter speed is visible in the finder
 o includes case (fair to good condition) and neck strap
 o a very robust mechanical camera (will function w/o battery)

$130 + shipping


                      +-----------------------------------+                    
                      |         Charles R. Meyer          |                    
                      |                                   |                    
                      | Internet: crmeyer@voodoo.ucsb.edu |                    
                      | Bitnet:   crmeyer@voodoo          |                    
                      | HEPnet:   voodoo::crmeyer         |                    
                      +-----------------------------------+                    

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: panos@burton.cs.colorado.edu (Panos Tsirigotis)
Subject: Re: EOS FAQ - Bigger and Better!
Keywords: Canon EOS FAQ
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 07:11:45 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.231830.3592@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
>
>6.7.  How can I shoot more than 36 exposures?
>
>It appears that there is no way so far.   The  camera  cannot  be  made  to
>ignore the DX-ed film length.  Jim Cathey hypothesizes that with the faster
>(5fps) film transport that first appeared on the 630/RT, that  Canon  might
>worry  about  tearing the film off the spool.  (Anyone else have experience
>with non-DX'ed cannisters?  What about if you hit EOF with a roll  of  less
>than 36?  Any sprocket hole damage?)

As a single data point, I can state that a lot of times I have managed to 
get a 25th frame out of a 24-exposure film without ever tearing the film.
My camera is a 630.

Besides I can hypothesize that the Elan/100 will not allow shooting past
the 36th frame although its motor is weaker that the one in the 630/RT/10s.

>7.1.  What's an EOS RT?:
>
>The EOS RT is a specialty camera based on the EOS 630.  Features it  shares
>with  the  630 include:  interchangeable focusing screens, 5ps motor drive,
>faster AF than the original 620/650.  It also shares the limitation of  not
>being able to use the fully dedicated off-the-camera flash cord for ATTL.
>
>The EOS RT has a fixed mirror that allows the photographer to view the sub-
>ject in "Real Time" as the exposure is being made.  The viewfinder does not
>"black out" because the pellicelle mirror is not moved  out  of  the  light
>path.  This costs 2/3 of a stop of light.
>

One disadvantage of the RT that I feel should be mentioned is that
the user cannot clean the mirror. If it gets dirty, you send it to
Canon. Therefore, lens changes on dusty environments are not advised.

Panos

-- 
Panos Tsirigotis, CS grad                        
Pmail: Computer Science Dept., U. of Colorado @ Boulder, Boulder, CO 80309-0430
Email: panos@cs.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jackie@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jacquelyn Trang)
Subject: Help on zoom flash
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 16:45:24 GMT

I post this for a friend, any responses
please e-mail to sonny@perceptronics.com


     Hi,
 
     I need some advice on setting zoom head for the flash.
  I have a Nikon N6006 and Vivitar AF flash, I notice that
  sometimes I got slightly under-exposed picture due to the
  distance of the objects (I know that I have set the correct 
  apperture, I used f4 which should cover most of the distance
  inside my home).  Now the Vivitar flash does not have
auto-zoom
  head, does this mean that I have to constantly change the
flash
  manual zoom-head to my lens zoom setting?  The flash manual
says
  to set the zoom head at the lowest lens zoom setting (i.e.
35-135mm
  then set the flash zoom head at 35).
     I have also used the N8008 and SB-24 flash (borrow from a
friend)
  and it has auto-zoom capability; I noticed that the flash
zooms
  in and out according to my zoom setting, and I did not have
any
  under-exposure pictures.  Any comments are appreciated.
 
 
P.S. My Vivitar flash has the same range coverage
     as the SB-24, so I know that I don't need a 
     more powerful flash. I think the model # is
     Vivitar 628 or 636 AF.
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Enlarger tips wanted
Date: 16 Nov 92 15:38:51 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <1992Nov9.011346.15288@andersen.co.uk>, sdpage@andersen.co.uk (Stephen Page) writes:

> I am about to buy an enlarger for B&W and colour (Cibachrome) printing.
> Any hints on what to lookfor would be particularly useful. I have been
> impressed by the build quality (but not the price) of Kaiser enlargers,
> but clearly there are several others to consider. How do I choose??

I can also recommend Dunco (they should be available in the U.K.) and
LPL (definitely available, but wherefrom?). Durst's enlargers are also
good, but their price is a bit high. I'm currently using one, though.

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
From: sue-d@nwu.edu (SUE DAKIMOWICZ)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: The Kodak disposable underwater camera
Date: 19 Nov 92 17:42:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: mac179.sue-d-191192113545
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Northwestern Univ.

I'm going to the Virgin Islands in about 2 1/2 weeks and I want to go
snorkeling.  I was wondering if anyone has ever used the disposable cameras
that you can take underwater?  If so, how deep can you go?  What is the
quality of the pictures ( are they sharp or fuzzy?)  Are there any other
companies that make a similar camera, like Fuji maybe?

I would really appreciate any comments!  Please email me or you can just
respond to this posting.

Thanks!

Sue

sue-d@nwu.edu
Northwestern University
Mechanical Engineering Department
Evanston, IL  60208
From: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon 35-105 AF & Nikon 35-135 AF test
Date: 16 Nov 92 16:21:34 GMT
Reply-To: goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg)
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center, Annapolis, MD

In rec.photo, fm@neptune.iex.com (Mohammad Farooq) writes:
>I am looking for some information on these zoom lenses. If someone had compare
>there performance? which lens can produce better quality pictures?

I have personally owned and used the Nikon 35-105 NON-AF (sold) and
the 35-135 AF.  I chose the latter at the time I moved to AF because
I liked its reach.  And I didn't want to duplicate what my "old" 35-105
did.

The 35-105 AF is a different design from the older non-AF in that it
goes into macro only at the wide end of the zoo.  The older design had
more flexibility in the macro, so you could effectively get nice close-up
portraits.  I also think the old 35-105 had a little better optical
performance.  It is lighter and smaller than the 35-135 and used 52mm
dia filters.  I think most of the AF lenses, like the 35-135, use 62mm.

But I have gotten some great shots with the 35-135, including one which
one a contest award in my pro association.  FOr traveling light, this
lens makes a great combo with a short wide angle, like a 24mm or 20mm
(my choice).  The 62mm filter size was an improvement, because non of
my shots have vignetting as they did with 52mm filters.

Another great lens to consider is the new 28-70.  I have checked it
out and have been considering adding it to my repertoire.  It focussed
continuously to macro at all focal lengths.  I think the 35-135 is better
for outside shots and traveling, and the 28-70 would be better for candids
and family shots at close range.

   /|/| /||)|/  /~ /\| |\|)[~|)/~   |   Everyone's entitled to MY opinion.
  / | |/ ||\|\  \_|\/|_|/|)[_|\\_|  |      goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil
========Imagination is more important than knowledge. - Albert Einstein=======
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: chawley@andy.bgsu.edu (Chris Hawley)
Subject: rec.photo
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 03:01:48 GMT

Hey, are there any photojournalists out there?  I'd love to talk shop--drop
me a line to let me know who you are, or post a message.

Chris Hawley
The BG News
chawley@andy.bgsu.edu
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Changing N8008 for the new Canon?
Date: 16 Nov 92 20:59:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Nov16.205912.14916
Distribution: na
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Nov16.173152.13775@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
>
>Incidentally, there are two versions of the EOS 5 (or EOS A2 in the US).
>One has the "gee-whiz" eyeball tracking feature - the other has the same
>multiple AF zones, but doesn't figure out where you are looking. I guess
>it works like the 10s? (you select the zone you want, or let the camera
>take it's best guess). I think there will be a couple of hundred dollars
>price difference. Incidentally, anyone seen a US discount price? I think the
>list is $1200 or so on the less "gee-whiz" version, so I would expect to
>see a discount price around $600 or so.

Actually I don't think they have made it to the stores yet. I went down
to Camera World of Oregon, and they didn't have any yet (but are supposed
to get them "real soon now"). This is for the A2, not the A2E. The A2E
isn't due out for a few months yet (spring?). Anyway, I reserved an A2
at Camera World, so I can get one as soon as they come in.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: epan@jarthur.claremont.edu
Subject: Re: Olympus IS-1, -2, -3
Originator: epan@jarthur.claremont.edu
Organization: Harvey Mudd College, Claremont, CA 91711
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 01:02:14 GMT

	I just got an IS-1, it's a wonderful camera.... I used it a bit already.  But I am going to use it on my trip to St. Louis tomorrow.... You can get the IS-1 without the quartz date from mail-order places for about $350 or less...
	I'd like to hear what you decide on... and how much you pay for it...
			Thanks
From: hpb@hpb.cis.pitt.edu (Harry Bloomberg)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 80-200/f2.8 for $$$, why?
Date: 19 Nov 92 04:35:37 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1992Nov19.035957.3597@walter.bellcore.com> jchen@wind.UUCP (Jason Chen) writes:
>There seems to be a lot of interest in fast but expensive zoom lenses such
>as the 80-200/f2.8. I am sure there must be special applications where
>the additional stop worth the money, but I can't understand why there is
>so much interest in paying the large premium for the extra stop.
>
   If you're a pro, the additional stop is indeed worth the extra money.  One
can never have too fast a lens at a night football game, or in a dimly
lit basketball arena.

   From my experince, the slowest shutter speed one can use and "stop"
action is 1/500.  1/250 just doesn't cut it.  1/500 is just a minimum.
One should use a shorter shutter speed if there's sufficient light.

   The extra stop also allows one to use slower film.  I find there's a
big difference in graininess and tonality in TMAX 3200 depending upon
whether I shoot and develop the film for ASA 1600 or 3200.

   Yet another advantage of the faster lens is the resultant brighter
image in the viewfinder.  The pro sports photographers I know all focus
manually, and the brighter image greatly simplifies this.  The only
sport in which I found AF useable so far is college volleyball (frankly, I
don't see how I could shoot volleyball without AF).

   The big advantage of the fixed aperature lens is that it simplifies
manual metering.  Many arenas are very constrasty, and even the best
matrix metering becomes confused.  Manual metering with a variable
aperature zoom is tricky at best unless one confines onself to either
focal length.

   80-200 mm is the exact perfect focal length for shooting basketball.
If you sit on the baseline halfway between the hoop and the sideline,
players driving to the hoop fit almost perfectly in the frame when the
lens is at the 80mm position.  The 200 mm extreme is perfect for
photographing guards in the backcourt.

   So, there are lots of reasons for 80-200 f2.8 lenses.  For most
amateurs, they're not worth the extra money.  But for a pro who shoots
sports, this is a very useful tool.

   I'm basing my opinions on my new Nikkor AF 80-200 f2.8.  I just
finished a set of prints from Pitt's first home basketball game, and I'm
quite pleased.  Before, I used an 85mm lens, and although I took many
shots of action around the hoop, I missed a lot of plays in the
backcourt.  Now, I can make a good shot whenever Pitt has the ball.  This
is a very well constructed sharp lens.  My only complaint is that the
manual focus has a heavy, slow feel that really gives my wrist a workout
during a game.  I suspect that the focus will loosen up over time and
that my left wrist will eventually develop the necessary muscles.

Harry Bloomberg
hpb@vms.cis.pitt.edu
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: SCUBA questions (new Ektachrome + Nikon Action Touch)
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 12:15:08 GMT

In article <PHILG.92Nov7171443@zug.ai.mit.edu>, philg@zurich.ai.mit.edu (Philip Greenspun) writes:
> 
> Two questions:
> 
> 1) Does anyone know when the new Kodak SCUBA Ektachrome will be
> available?  Has anyone ever seen it either here or in Europe (where
> Kodak lately seems to be introducing its best stuff first rather than
> here in the Third World)?  I leave for the Great Barrier Reef on Dec
> 11th and I'd like to get some by then.
> 

I asked around and was told the the new UW will be released "next year"...
Best you see if you can get some over there. BTW, don't forget that that (this)
part of the world is heading into 'the wet' and cyclone season.

~Paul

PS let me know if there is anything I can do over here
From: prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: candid photo lens? is there such a thing?
Date: 17 Nov 92 18:28:27 GMT
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA

In article <1992Nov17.182014.10522@leland.Stanford.EDU> prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger) writes:
>
>People are far more sensitive to the direction of your eye than the direction
>of your lens.  I guess the public-at-large is conditioned to associate
>photography with a straight TLR or P&S set up.
                             ^^^ Sorry, I mean SLR.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: geoff@pmafire.inel.gov (Geoff Allen)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 18:36:47 GMT
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Subject: Life, the Universe, and Big Cities (Re: Camera Feature Wars - Photo Getting Like Video)
Summary: 
Followup-To: 
Organization: Roller Coaster fanatic with no hope for a cure
Keywords: 

We're getting a little off topic here, but hey, it's only 1s and 0s!

>| Machines do things and this gives me more leasure time that I can spend 
>| out in the backcountry... Some things, like driving in rush hour traffic, 
>| can indeed be stressful. But you don't have to do it, you have an option.
>
>						-Dyer Lytle  
>
>Despite all the things that machines do for us, collectively we seem to
>be getting farther and farther away from the "life of leisure" that
>futurists were predicting twenty years ago. Contemporary life is incredibly
>stressful for most people. Alarmingly so, I'd say. Some people have options,
>it's true. But most of us are deeply enmeshed. Sure, you can move to
>"someplace better" (wherever that is!),

Idaho.

But please don't tell anyone. ;^)

Well, I guess you can tell them about Boise, as long as we can keep the
rest of the state to ourselves. ;^)

>You can ride your bike, but what do you do if the air isn't fit to breathe?

Well, you'd have a tough time riding a bike these days.  We've gotten
many many inches of snow in the last few days, with more on the way
later this week.  Roads are icy.  Definitely not bicycling weather.

But the air sure is crisp and clean!

Geoff

-- 
Geoff Allen          \  Driggs, Idaho -- cultural hub of the west!
uunet!pmafire!geoff   \
geoff@pmafire.inel.gov \  (Tom Harper in rec.skiing)
Newsgroups: rec.photo