HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: handlebar taping technique
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 16:21:55 GMT


For adhesive cloth tape, there is only one way (bait!) to tape.  Start
at the ends in a manner such that at the stem end the tape will point
forward and end at the bottom of the bar.  The result is that it is
out of sight and every time you grip the bar there it will force the
tape down and around in the right way.

Start the tape at the bar end using a "right hand rule" for the right
side and a "left hand rule" for the left.  Or, just remember to wrap
downward toward the outside.

However, the trick with the inner tube is quite nice.

Note: I don't have aero brake levers, and this might not hold together
when cabling is involved.

/andy
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: MTB Bar Ends vs Scott Bars
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Date: 14 Sep 92 22:32:32 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech

In article <maarrrk.716336769@seidel>, maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu (Mark
Erickson) wrote:
>
> Anybody have a good reason to go with regular bars/ends rather than
> the Scotts?

Because of the relatively large radius from the 'flat' part of the Scott
bar to the 'bar end' part of the Scott bar, one ends up with less useable
width for a given overall width. When riding in the normal (non-bar-ends)
position, your hands are going to be closer together, giving you less
leverage to steer straight on rough terrain.

This may or may not be of concern to a particular rider going over
particular terrain.

  --scott (not the handlebar maker)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: harry@cv.hp.com (Harry Phinney)
Subject: Re: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 22:32:39 GMT

mikami@Apple.COM (Eiichiro Mikami) writes:
:        I just got a 8sp hyperglide cassette and I notice the last 6 cogs
: are bolted together. I was able to unbolt them but the questions is are
: the cogs made to be in a certain positions?

Yes, the cogs are made to be in a certain position.  It is my
understanding that there are a few different sets of cogs, and the cogs
are not intended to be interchanged between the sets.  This is to
maintain the indexing of the Hype-Glide ramps on adjacent cogs.

: For example can I move the 21
: from the 8th position to 7th position and replace a 23 in the 8th position?
: Also are 7sp hyperglde cogs usable in a 8sp cassette?

In computer industry terms, these configurations are probably
functional, but unsupported.  I've seen people using non-hyperglide cogs
mixed with hyperglide ones without problems.  I have only seen this on
road bikes with small size differences between cogs.  I suspect that any
problems would be more likely to appear with wider ratio cassettes (i.e.
> 2 teeth between cogs).

Harry Phinney   harry@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: koichi@unixg.ubc.ca (Koichi J Kishimoto)
Subject: Shimano 1993 gruppo
Organization: University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 04:58:54 GMT

Here's a brief outline of Shimano's 1993 gruppos:

Latest technology to be introduced is the 'M-System'. The
Multi-Condition Brake System is said to improve braking in
wet/poor conditions. XTR's HyperDrive is now available throughout
their component range.

XTR: Unchanged

Deore XT: Largely unchanged. Dual SIS (HyperDrive 'XTR' type front
         chainrings) and M-System are offered as options.

Deore DX: Largely unchanged. As in the XT, HyperDrive and M-System
         are options. 

Deore LX: Major upgrade. Rapidfire Plus, HyperDrive, M-System,
         low profile cranks and link-wire straddle brakes. The design used
         is very similar to the XTR, right down to the slots cut into the
         front derailleur. (Looks very light)

300LX-500LX Exage: Replaced by the Exage ES and Exage LT.
         Features include Rapidfire Plus, M-System and low profile
         cranks. HyperDrive is also standard.

200GS,100GS,70GS: Replaced by the Altus A10, Altus A20, Altus C10
         and Altus C20. Features include HyperDrive and M-System for all
         these groups. Rapidfire Plus is offered in the A series. The C20
         is a 6-speed with thumb shifters. The C10 will get a Rapidfire
         with a gear indicator dial

 
Source: Mountain Biking, October 1992
From: mikami@Apple.COM (Eiichiro Mikami)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Date: 8 Sep 92 19:44:52 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA


   Hi,
       I just got a 8sp hyperglide cassette and I notice the last 6 cogs
are bolted together. I was able to unbolt them but the questions is are
the cogs made to be in a certain positions? For example can I move the 21
from the 8th position to 7th position and replace a 23 in the 8th position?
Also are 7sp hyperglde cogs usable in a 8sp cassette?


thanks

eiichiro mikami mikami@apple.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jitendra@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Jitendra Kavathekar)
Subject: advice sought for cannondale's m1000 ('92)
Originator: jitendra@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 21:47:37 GMT

Hello NetLand,

   I would like to hear opinions/impressions of the Cannondale M1000 MTB.
   I am specifially looking at the 1992 model.

   I have an opportunity to buy it for $750.  Do you think that the bike
   could be gotten  *anywhere* for much less?

 thank you
 Jitendra

-- 
            _/_                     Jitendra A. Kavathekar 
    o _  _  /                  internet:    jeet@point.cs.uwm.edu
   /_</_</_<__                  home phone:    (414) 224 - 1642
 -'
From: shiba@riffnique.csd.sgi.com (Richard Shiba)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Microdrive durability?  (was Great MTB's MB-0/1)
Date: 10 Sep 92 23:24:48 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA

In <5677@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> broadley@lrdc5 (Bill Broadley) writes:

>	No microdrive drive train. (for longer durability)

i haven't heard much talk about microdrive being less
durable, but i was thinking, some of my roadie friends
used to say that 11T cogs wore out like butter.  Yet
SunTour is offering an 11T cog and a 20T chainring.

has anyone heard about wear problems with microdrive?
maybe it's too new to say...anyone have opinions on
this?

	-rich

	

	
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tye@elvis.mit.edu (Tye Brady)
Subject: Scott Drop-In Bar Creak-Creak
Keywords: handlebars,creak
Organization: Massachvsetts Institvte of Technology
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:41:06 GMT

My 92 scott Drop-In bars give an annoying click whenever a fair amount  
pressure is put on either side of the bar, say like in an out of the  
saddle climb or while sprinting.

These bars came with two shims that are put between the bar and stem  
(Mavic in my case).  I tried to remedy this by torqueing down the bar  
bolt, and it still does not help.  It actually gets quieter when I loosen  
bolt, but then the handlebars tend move whenever I go in the drop  
positition.  I noticed also that the new Liteflite line from scott does  
not involve any shims. Does this remedy the problem?  Is there another  
way?

click-click
tye


my .sig is out riding
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Great MTB's MB-0/1
Date: 10 Sep 92 14:02:49 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, broadley@lrdc5 (Bill Broadley) writes:

>Not using grease gaurd hubs really surprised me.  The Mavic crank looks
>very unusal.  The inner ring (think a 24) is very thick, i.e. it forms
>a very close seal around the BB, i.e. distance from the teeth to the
>inside of the ring is over 1", and the space between the inside of the
>inner ring and the BB is like 1/4".
>
>Any ideas why this is?

More aerodynamic.
From: camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (**bj**)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Microdrive durability?  (was Great MTB's MB-0/1)
Date: 11 Sep 92 14:00:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Sep10.232448.17247@news.csd.sgi.com>, shiba@riffnique.csd.sgi.com (Richard Shiba) writes...
>In <5677@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> broadley@lrdc5 (Bill Broadley) writes:
> 
>>	No microdrive drive train. (for longer durability)
> 
>i haven't heard much talk about microdrive being less
>durable, but i was thinking, some of my roadie friends
>used to say that 11T cogs wore out like butter.  Yet
>SunTour is offering an 11T cog and a 20T chainring.
> 
>has anyone heard about wear problems with microdrive?
>maybe it's too new to say...anyone have opinions on
>this?

My microdrive has been on my bike for approx 500 off-road (I mean
really off-road, not just dirt roads) miles on top of approx 400 
additional road/dirt road miles.  I have not had any unusual wear
on the 11T cog or the 20T chainring.  From my experiences, the
concerns about wear is unwarranted.  As usual, your mileage may
vary...

On another slightly related topic (re: MB0/MB1):  The bikes have
great feel and geometry.  Great frame.  They feel like they were
tailor made for a person of my dimensions.  I would be riding an
MB1 right now if they come equipped with microdrive/grease guard
hubs (XC-pro) instead of the older freewheel/std XC-pro hub set up.
As it were, if an MB1 frame is available, I am tempted to put
my present microdrive/greaseguard set up on it.
**bj**
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov (Nancy Piltch)
Subject: Re: How do cyclocomputers perform in cold weather?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 15 Sep 1992 10:50 EST  

In article <freshair.716493132@vincent1.iastate.edu>, freshair@iastate.edu (James W Gregory) writes...
>How well do cyclocomputers perform in cold (0 F) weather?  Will they work 

My Cateye cordless works fine in the temperatures we get in Cleveland,
which is probably not quite as cold as what you get. The display does
get faint - but most of my winter commuting is done before sunrise and
after sunset so that's pretty much a non-issue for me. I haven't had
any trouble with ice and snow buildup; maybe others have. We get lots of
slush here so I think I'd see ice buildup if it were a problem.

The buttons are too small to be operated with winter gloves, though. I
think manufacturers of cycling accessories think we all live in climates
where "winter" means temperatures of 40F.


Nancy Piltch            piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov
NASA Lewis Research Center, Cleveland Ohio 44135
From: weird@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (john.t.erhardt)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Date: 11 Sep 92 20:15:46 GMT
Organization: AT&T

Hyperglide.  How one word can create so much confusion.  Let me tell you what 
has worked for me.  I have a HG-90 12-21 cassette. I don't know why this
is the smallest Shimano sells.  There are flat parts of the country
ya know.  Anyway I was riding with a large group of people this last weekend,
which ended up to be as hard or harder than a race.  The whole time I kept
switching between my 15 and 17 tooth cog, neither one being really 
what I wanted.  So last Tuesday I took the cassette apart, got rid of the 21
and inserted a 16 tooth non-hyperglide cog.  It doesn't shift as 
well on the upshift but if you remember it's the downshift that's usually
more important.  ON the down shift it's about the same, maybe a little
noisier.   It would probably be better if my derailuer was adjusted right.

Another thing, for you weight phreaks.  Get rid of those
three screws that hold the cogs together.  You don't need them and they add
weight.  The lock right and the splines on the hub hold the thing fine.
If you don't believe me, you can take a look at my dura-ace non-hyperglide
7speed hub.  Same type of splines but no screwes.  

Personally, regarding Shimano, I think anythings possible.  If it doesn't
work for you you probably haven't tried hard enough.  Their marketing department
must dream up the combatibility guidlines to make more money.  I wonder if
they're the same way with their fishing equipment.

BTW, anyone have any news on Shimano's 93 road groups?

John

P
x
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper)
Subject: Re: Removing frozen freewheel
Organization: University of Waterloo Math Faculty Computing Facility, Ontario.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 16:11:10 GMT

In article <88598@netnews.upenn.edu> vinson@shiva.seas.upenn.edu (Jack Vinson) writes:
>Another suggestion:
>
>Put the freewheel remover on and secure it with the quick release skewer.
>(I'm not sure if you can secure it with the axle bolt if you don't have
>quick release.)  
Preferably find an old quick release skewer to use, since it might get
bent if something slips during this process.
>
>Now find a vise and put the freewheel remover in it and twist!  Hopefully
>you can apply enough torque to free the threads.
[...]
>
>
>
>
>Jack Vinson			vinson@unagi.cis.upenn.edu     

Adrian.
arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@marconi.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: hyperglide cassette cogs positions in the cluster
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 12:48:12 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.231502.17074@news.csd.sgi.com> shiba@riffnique.csd.sgi.com (Richard Shiba) writes:
>	Evidently there's something like 6 or 8 different types
>	of hyperglide cogs, and they're all matched as a set.
  Yes.  And they are all stamped with a number identifiying them.  The
difference is in the location of the release gate that carries the chain up.
The only problem would be with multiple gear shifts.  The "matched" sets of
cogs are setup so that the chain can go right up several cogs at a time
(not supported by the shifters in some case ie Deore LX can only shift up
1 or 2 gears at a time compared to 5+ for the XT).  However, if the steps
between gears is only 1 tooth the hyperglide does not offer any advantage.
If the road grouppos shift to a microdrive type system you will see hyperglide
dissipear and my bet is that is what will happen.
  - Eric
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Installing 6 gear freewheel on 5 gear hub.
Date: 11 Sep 1992 16:34:47 -0500
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

In rec.bicycles.tech <47474@shamash.cdc.com>
  ldh@svl.cdc.com (Lawrence D. Hare) about Ultra-6 speed freewheels:

> Does anyone have any information on this and perhaps some experience to
> go with it? Are there a good selection of gears available? (Shimano does
> not make a 27 tooth for example). Is it hard to come by and, if so, any
> addresses?

Ultra-6 freewheels were made to replace standard 5-speed freewheels.
I don't think Shimano ever made an Ultra-6 freewheel.  I am familiar
with Regina and Suntour Ultra-6; they are generally hard to find.
If you find a cachet of them, please let me know, I'd like to buy
one or two myself.

If you really want more gearing choices you could have your frame
"adjusted" so that 7-speed or 8-speed wheels will fit.  Have this
done by a reputable bike mechanic who has the proper tools to ensure
your dropouts are aligned correctly.  Of course, you'll need to
get a new rear wheel unless your old hub can be updated with a
longer axle.

My "technical" recommendation is that you keep your current gearing
for a while and do some riding.  As you rebuild your cycling strength
your current gearing might be alright.  If you still want super-wide
gearing then you could buy a new index 21 speed touring bike.

cheers,
Alex Miller
internet: amiller@almaden.ibm.com
From: cwright@mickey.WPI.EDU (Charles R. Wright)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: "Clunk" noises from the axle
Date: 10 Sep 1992 23:52:17 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute, Worcester, MA
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: mickey.wpi.edu


Well, first let me explain the noise, then we can argue about where
it's coming from (and what that particular thing is called).

What I'm talking about is a "clunk" noise I get when I pedal real
hard.  This noise occurs when my right foot is at about at the 1 or 2
o'clock position and I'm starting to put a lot of weight on it.

I've read the FAQ and this does not sound like the creaky crank noises
described there.  This sounds as if it were coming from the bearings
inside the axle cartridge (name?).  If I pedal "softly", it does not
occur.  When I start up a hill, or start sprinting hard, I hear the
noise.  Any gear.

I've tried to make the noise happen without riding the bike.  I grab
one of the cranks and pull hard (without rotating the crank), and if I
pull in the right way, I can make the noise.  This is independent of
which crank I pull.

The bike is about 4 yrs old.  It's a Nashbar bike, and the crank arms
say "Suguino VP" on them.  I thought about taking apart the axle assy.
but immediately ran into "special-tool-itis".

Any clues?  Can it wait 'till the winter?

Many thanks,

Charles Wright
Electrical & Computer Engineering Dept.
Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Worcester, MA (USA)

P.S.  I'm not an expert on bike nomenclature as used on this group.
If some kind soul would also explain exactly what hunk 'o metal the
term "bottom bracket" refers to, I would be infinitely grateful.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: GE.DWS@forsythe.stanford.edu (Drew W. Saunders)
Subject: Re: Great MTB's MB-0/1
Organization: Stanford University, California, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 23:35:58 GMT

In article <5677@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP>,
broadley@lrdc5 (Bill Broadley) writes:
>Not using grease gaurd hubs really surprised me.  The Mavic crank looks
>very unusal.  The inner ring (think a 24) is very thick, i.e. it forms
>a very close seal around the BB, i.e. distance from the teeth to the
>inside of the ring is over 1", and the space between the inside of the
>inner ring and the BB is like 1/4".
>
>Any ideas why this is?
>        To help with chain suck?  (Doesn't look like it would help?)
>        To help stiffen the aluminum chain ring?  (Why not make it steel?)
>        To be trendy and make the product different (Hope not).

I wondered about this too until one day when my chain derailed to
the inside and jammed between the inner ring and the BB shell.  I
didn't need to remove the crank to free it, but I almost did.  The
Mavic design would have the chain jam between it and the frame,
which might be easier to free.  Not a pleasant situation now matter
how you look at it.

Drew
From: ncherry@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (neil j.cherry)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Helmets?
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:30:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <BuG6KI.GLH@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> mcoulter@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Summer Vacancy) writes:
>Had my first head crunching accident this week.  Do not as yet have 
>a helmet, but I used to feel pretty safe on my mountain bike. Hit 
>a stretch of treated wood on a bike trail in Ft. Wayne Indiana that
>was wet and slicker than snot.  Fell to the side and hit my ear (it
>took the entire impact of my fall) on a the rail of a train track.
>
>Had a minor concussion.  
>
>I've looked at all the helmets.  Since I have thick and very long hair
>I don't see anything that will offer any protection against what happened
>to me.   The rail would have still got me. Those helmets offer not facial
>or side protection.They only seem to protect the top of the 
>cranium.
>
>I got a spare $50, but lack serious motivation to buy and wear one.
>
>Anyone out there have a few horror stories?  Maybe I got lucky
>or maybe these things are just not possible to protect one's self against..
>(the accidents).  
>
>All types of stories would be appreciated.  Hearsay, etc... welcome.
>Thanks.  
>
>Still struggling with the "survival thing" in indiana.
>

Ok you asked for it, A friend of mine was bumped by a van and tossed to the
ground. When he hit it cracked his skull open, it killed him almost instantly.
The van had slowed and my friend weaved when they collided. Had he worn a
helmet he be alive today, but that was back in '75. I miss my friend! And
thats why I wear a helmet.

Now it your decision.
NJC
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: RONEAL@lexmark.com (Randy O'Neal)
Subject: Bent skewers...
X-Disclaimer: These views are the poster's and not necessarily those of Lexmark
Organization: Lexmark International, Lexington, KY
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 13:37:10 GMT

Well, I popped another spoke last night - the first since I went to
double-butted spokes.  I removed the failed spoke on the roadside and
trued the wheel (rear) as best as I could.  But back on the bike I felt
this annoying hop.  I watched the wheel and sure enough it was running
straight and true, though just a bit tilted.
 
When I pulled the wheel off last night, I had to remove the freewheel
to get the new spoke in and that's when I realized that the skewer was
bent.  It was bent enough that when I spun the wheel the axle floated
up and down in my hands.  I guess that's where the hop was coming from.
 
Question is, do I dare straighten out the skewer, or should I replace it?
It appears to be straightenable... but do I risk a quick failure in it
if I do?  For what it's worth, the spoke broke at the head on the non-
freewheel side.  These are Wheelsmith double-butted spokes and I was
standing on the pedals on flat ground 'sprinting' to/through a traffic
light (if you call anything I do on any bike sprinting... ha!).  I didn't
hear the spoke let go... just felt the wheel get loose and begin to wobble.
Surprised me... oh well.
 
 
Randy O'Neal  RONEAL@lexmark.com     Printer Attach Software Development
                                     Lexmark International, Inc.
-- Weinberg's Law --                 Lexington, Ky.
'If builders built buildings like
 programmers wrote programs, then                                     __o
 the first woodpecker that came      "The views above are not those  `\<,
 along would destroy civilization.'   of my employer... just mine."  O/ O
From: ph@physiology.oxford.ac.uk (Patrick Haggard)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Knackered BB thread (SUMMARY)
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:58:41 GMT
Organization: Physiology Department, Oxford University, Oxford, UK.
Originator: ph@galen.physiol


Many thanks to all who responded with prompt suggestions on fixing
the stripped thread on the bottom bracket.  There was a clear
consensus (unusual for the net 8-> ) on what to do:
1. Attempt to recut thread.
2. Mill off thread and cut Italian thread instead (pricey).
3. Mill off thread and get Mavic threadless cup instead (pricey).
4. Use loctite (inadvisable, and didn't work anyway).
5. Weld fixed cup to frame (joke).

As it happened, I was very lucky.  I removed the fixed cup from it's
wobbly half-on position.  This revealed that the thread on the cup
was knackered, but the thread on the frame looked OK.  Further, there
was a hairline crack going almost all the way round the circumference
of the cup, so it was bending under even quite small strains.  I have
purchased a replacement cup, and it seemed to screw into the frame
reasonably happily.  So far it seems to be holding fine.
This evening I shall clean out the thread on the frame and screw it in 
properly.  So basically, all's well that ends well.  There's probably
also a moral that things probably aren't as bad as they seem.

------------------------------------------------------------

Patrick Haggard,
Oxford University Laboratory of Physiology,
Parks Road,
Oxford,
OX1 3PT
England

Tel. (0865) 272116
Fax. (0865) 272469
Email (JANET): ph@uk.ac.ox.physiol
------------------------------------------------------------