HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: forags@nature.Berkeley.EDU (Al Stangenberger)
Newsgroups: sci.environment,ba.transportation,rec.railroad
Subject: Re: The Rebuilding of the Wrecked West Oakland I-880 Segment
Date: 15 Aug 1992 06:22:03 GMT
Organization: U. C. Forestry & Resource Mgt.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: nature.berkeley.edu

In article <1992Aug15.032831.18159@s1.gov> lip@s1.gov (Loren I. Petrich) writes:
>
>Amtrak's West Oakland station is due to be demolished as part of the
>construction; Amtrak will be getting a new station at Jack London
>Square at Alice St.

The freeway reconstruction is not the only reason for demolition of Amtrak's
West Oakland station (old SP 16th Street station).  The building was
condemned because of extensive damage by the Loma Prieta earthquake.

Since that station was in a bad part of town and not conveniently served by
much public transit (AC line 88 is about all), a relocation to Jack London
Square makes a lot of sense.

-- 
Al Stangenberger                    Dept. of Forestry & Resource Mgt.
forags@nature.berkeley.edu          145 Mulford Hall - Univ. of Calif.
uucp:  ucbvax!ucbnatur!forags       Berkeley, CA  94720
BITNET: FORAGS AT UCBNATUR          (510) 642-4424 FAX: (510) 643-5438
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Subject: Bubble and Elegans Coral Reproduction
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords:  coral reproduction
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 19 Aug 1992 09:49 EDT  

    This morning I noticed a small, .75 inch diameter whitish green mass on
the bottom of my 135 gallon reef tank.  Upon closer examination I was able to
identify it as a small bubble coral.  It has a small mouth  at its center and
it does not appear to have a calcareous base.  A long time ago a piece of a
larger bubble coral started to elongate past the end of the coral base.  After
a month or so the extended piece fell off and down into the rock work of the
tank.  That piece became attached to a piece of dead organ pipe coral and
continued to live for over a year.  Since then I had purchased a hard plate
like coral and placed it in such a manner that it blocked most to all of the
light reaching the small bubble coral.  About a month or so ago I noticed that
the small bubble coral was no longer in its original position.  Perhaps the
coral I noticed this morning was the piece that attached to the dead organ pipe
coral and decided that it should seek a better home or perhaps or perhaps, less
likely, one of the larger bubble corals in the tank released another baby.
(Surely I would have noticed it). 

    I wonder how much current there is in the natural environment of bubble
corals?  If there were a lot, surely this means of reproduction wouldn't work,
since the coral would not be able to attach to the substrate without being
blown away. 

    If I can find the baby bubble when I get home after work today, I will try
to isolate it in a plastic mesh structure with a small rock inside for it to
attach to.  I have used this method somewhat successfully for small pieces of
xenia. 

    On another note the second baby from one of my elegans coral which
propagated twice in the same manner is doing fine.  It has a calcareous base
which it formed while still attached to the parent.  The elegans has not
attached to the rock work yet.  The first baby fell down in the rock work never
to be heard from again. 


Greg Smith

Xref: sparky sci.aquaria:1220 rec.aquaria:6521 alt.aquaria:4618
From: sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: [M][R] Questions about actinics
Date: 17 Aug 92 13:34:40 GMT
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

Can someone please provide me with information on the spectral emission of
Phillips actinic03 bulbs?

Also, what is the verdict on the need of this type bulb for a healthy reef?

				Thanks,
					Carl
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: wissler@stsci.edu (Steven Wissler,G12,4899,ADD.1-29-91)
Subject: Re: (M) mantis shrimp in reef tank
Originator: wissler@homer.stsci.edu
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 11:51:09 GMT

From article <1992Aug17.224035.8611@leland.Stanford.EDU>, by jamescho@leland.Stanford.EDU (James Cho):
> i have several mantis shrimp which came with my live rock.  the
> largest is about 3" long and 1/2" wide.  it has been boring 3/4" holes
> in my live rock.  although he is really fun to watch, i think that
> i should take him out before he gets a chance to cause too much
> problems.  what is the recommended method of removing him?
> 
> here is a list of possible methods which people have told me about:
> 
> 	1)	remove all the live rock and find his hole
> 		and remove him.
> 
> 	2)	reduce the salinity to 1.017 which will
> 		kill all crustaceans.
> 
> 	3)	catch him in a trap.
>	If you have the patience for # 3 go for it. I did'nt. I watched
	witch piece of rock he was going into and removed only that
	piece. It was a small piece and was almost completely hollow. I
had to break the rock in half to get him out. This might not be
	a good way to go depending on the piece of rock he is inhabiting
	
					Good luck

					Steve Wissler
					wissler@stsci.edu
From: drchambe@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Dennis Chamberlin)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: treating sick fish
Date: 18 Aug 92 22:20:23 GMT
Distribution: na


I have a flagfin angel (Heniochus) that suddenly developed an exopthalmic
(popped eyes) condition on both sides. The fish was previously healthy and
eating very well. I believe the disease was triggered when I accidentally
left the heater unplugged and the temp went down to about 65.

I have him in a hospital with Coppersafe and Furan-2 in the water. 

Any suggestions on how I should treat this abused and unfortunate fish?
From: moss@brl.mil (Gary S. Moss (VLD/VMB) <moss>)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: yellow star polyps
Date: 17 Aug 92 16:13:17 GMT
Reply-To: moss@brl.mil

In article <Bsxp8w.6Mv@netnews.jhuapl.edu>, fernando@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu (Fernando Pineda) writes:
|> ... My temperature has been difficult to keep down and typically runs 
|> around  82 degrees.

|> ...  Waterflow should be sufficient, itUs a 10 gallon hex tank with a 3 
|> gallon sump running with a Rainbow Quiteone pump. (Next time IUll get an air 
|> cooled Iwaki!). 

Wow, a Quite One hooked to a 10 gallon tank! You must have a ball valve
clamped nearly shut to keep the water flow from overwhelming your overflow!
Maybe you meant to type "100"?

Anyway, after I got a Quiet One, my temperature got out of hand; it seems
to put more of a thermal load on the tank than the 2 175w MHs!  I just got
a BayTech chiller a couple of weeks ago.  It's the chiller with the remote
titanium cooling probe; you don't pump water through it.  Now I have a
heat problem in my cabinet, but that's relatively easy to fix.  The good
news is that the temperature is a rock solid 76F.

Before getting the chiller I had to use a floor pedistal fan to cool the
tank.  It did the job, but dramatically increased the evaporation which made
filling the DI water reservoir a frequent chore (~5gal/4days for 55gal tank).
Also, the temperature still fluctuated quite a bit.  82 degrees is generally
considered too high for corals, but it could easily be the anenome also.
What I read lately is that anenomes are not recommended for reef tanks unless
you happen specimens that stay put (fairly unlikely).

Of course if you really have a 10 gallon tank, lack of stability of water
parameters (temperature, alkalinity, available nutrients, etc.) could be
stressing your coral.

-Gary
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: nitrate reduction by algae
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 18:07:39 GMT

Well, I just souped up the flourescent lighting on my 55 gallon pentagon.  After
10 days, green micro-algaes and hair algaes have gone nuts, and are reclaiming
territory lost to the red-cyano bacteria.  What's more, in just 10 days, 
according to my tetra nitrate test kit, the nitrates have fallen from
~50ppm to ~25ppm (that's as fine grained as the test kit will read).  I'm not
as concerned about the hair algae taking over completely as I probably should
be at this point, since I like all different colors and types of algae in
my tanks.  I'm going to try and get some macro-algaes today (caulerpa) and
hope they survive better and can withstand the occasional sampling by my 
blue-yellow damsel....

Should I get some turbo-grazer snails?  Can these be obtained in local stores,
or is mail-order the best way to go?

Jason
-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
From: frazier@maxwell (Greg Frazier)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: nitrate reduction by algae
Date: 17 Aug 92 22:10:48 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg) writes:
: Well, I just souped up the flourescent lighting on my 55 gallon pentagon.
: After
: 10 days, green micro-algaes and hair algaes have gone nuts, and are reclaiming
: territory lost to the red-cyano bacteria.  What's more, in just 10 days, 
: according to my tetra nitrate test kit, the nitrates have fallen from
: ~50ppm to ~25ppm
..
: my tanks.  I'm going to try and get some macro-algaes today (caulerpa) and
: hope they survive better and can withstand the occasional sampling by my 
: blue-yellow damsel....
: 
: Should I get some turbo-grazer snails?  Can these be obtained in local stores,
: or is mail-order the best way to go?

Warning: I am not a saltwater person.  However... given that your
nitrates are on the retreat, it would suggest that your tank will
not be able to support its current algae levels.  Even if you add
no caulerpa or turbo grazers, you should see a reduction in your
algae in the near future.  Depending upon the bio-load in your
tank, once the nitrates approach 0ppm, your non-calcerous algaes may
completely die out (including caulerpa, if you add it).  Food for
thought...

--


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: faith@wam.umd.edu (Jerome V. Smith)
Subject: Help  .... Fuzzy Algae Attack 
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:22:34 GMT

I have what looks like fuzzy algae growing in my tank.  what is this stuff?
Is it algae? Is it good for my aquarium? How do I get rid of it.

       		Jerome!
From: drchambe@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Dennis Chamberlin)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: HELP - I'M NEW HERE...
Date: 20 Aug 92 15:16:20 GMT
Reply-To: drchambe@tekig5.pen.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Aug19.183655.6138@iscsvax.uni.edu> reifenra6638@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>All have died rather suddenly
>(I will check on them and then notice an hour later
>that a fish has died).  Can anyone tell me what's
>going on?
>
Sounds like aggression to me. Check for wounds/bruises. Angels killed a 
couple of my tetras in this manner.
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Bubble and Elegans Coral Reproduction
Keywords: coral reproduction
Date: 20 Aug 92 16:51:21 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <19AUG199209495217@venus.lerc.nasa.gov> fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith) writes:

>    I wonder how much current there is in the natural environment of bubble
>corals?  If there were a lot, surely this means of reproduction wouldn't work,
>since the coral would not be able to attach to the substrate without being
>blown away. 

  The elegans and bubble coral come from low water lagoons and pools. This
 would make them low current corals in nature. Since current is very strong
 on the reef fridges, low current may mean medium current in an aquarium.
  My small Gonipora Bud is doing fine. Its wedged into a small piece of coral-
 line algae rock. This helps keep micro and macro algae away from the bud.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder.
Xref: sparky sci.aquaria:1253 rec.aquaria:6686 alt.aquaria:4676
From: tli@skat.usc.edu (Tony Li)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: New FAQ section on plants
Date: 21 Aug 1992 22:51:41 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: skat.usc.edu

I hope everyone got to see Georg Jander's article on CO2 earlier this
week.  Georg has agreed to let us use this as part of the FAQ, so I'm
using it to be the cornerstone of a new FAQ section on plants.
Hopefully this will encourage other gardener types (who happen to
write articles that get published in magazings ;-) to contribute more
plant stuff to the FAQ.  As always, please send edits, comments and
suggestions to me (tli@usc.edu, tli@cisco.com) and Patti Beadles
(patti@hosehead.hf.intel.com). 

If you would like to see what the new FAQ section looks like, the
filename is FAQ.plants in the normal ftp area (see below).  I would
post it, but you probably have it on your news machine. 

Full disclosure dept.: I just started my first plant tank yesterday.  ;-)

Tony

----------------------------------------------------------------------

         Pointer to FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for *.aquaria

The FAQ for sci.aquaria, rec.aquaria and alt.aquaria is posted monthly on
the first on of the month.  It is posted with an extended expiration time,
so it may still be on your news machine.

The FAQ (and any other useful information that is submitted) will be
available through anonymous FTP on jerico.usc.edu (128.125.51.6),
located in Los Angeles, California.  Login through ftp with
'anonymous' as your username.  The FAQ files are located in the
directory pub/aquaria.  Please be gentle, as the machine is an
overused Sun 3/60. 
-- 
Tony Li - Escapee from the USC Computer Science Department          tli@usc.edu
		       The net is not what it seems.
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: fvr@broom.bae.bellcore.com (Frank Ricciardi)
Subject:  Hair algae generation???
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 17:05:33 GMT



	I seem to recall a discussion last week about the generation of 
hair algae by introducing tincture of iodine to the tank.
	
	Is this correct, is it beneficial, is it wise?? Will hair algae consume
nitrates? Is iodine harmful to inverts, fish or bacteria????




-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
"If you got to it and didn't do it, may you never get to it, and do it again"


Frank V. Ricciardi

fvr@bae.bellcore.com
From: lim@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Bubble and Elegans Coral Reproduction
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:31:41 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

>>ssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith) writes:
>>    I wonder how much current there is in the natural environment of bubble
>>corals?  

GENERAL rule of tumb on commonly seen aquarium corals:
most coral tht puff up don't like too much current, eg: mushroom, bubble, 
false brain (trachyphylia sp.)....etc

Example of corals tht love current:
true/close brain (Symphylia sp.), gonipora, most polyps, sea fans....etc

>steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree) writes:
>  The elegans and bubble coral come from low water lagoons and pools. they
> would make them low current corals in nature. Since current is very strong
>on the reef fridges, low current may mean medium current in an aquarium.

Since low current will result in sedimentation, the corals puffed up
to get rid of them.

==============================================================================
                                                 from Lim  --- the fish nut

US Postal Address: Computer Center, University of Kansas, 
                   Lawrence, KS 66044           
Internet Address:  lim@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Bitnet Address:    lim@ukanvax.bitnet

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: brohard@convex.com (James Brohard)
Subject: magnum 350
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Distribution: sci.aquaria alt.aquaria
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:16:56 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

    I considering buying the magnum 350. Does anyone have this model, and
can tell be of any problems, or their satisfaction level of this model?
I have had a 330 for about 5 years, but the motor gave out a couple of
weeks ago. I've looked at the 350, and it has many improvements over the
330, which is a plus, but I need feed back from users.


                         Thanks, James Brohard
From: reifenra6638@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
Subject: HELP - I'M NEW HERE...
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:36:55 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

I am new to having an aquarium and would like some 
opinions.  I have had my aquarium for about 1 1/2 
months now - I had a nitrate problem at the outset,
but have taken care of that now - it tests ok.

In the last week, I have lost three fish - I am
wondering if there is something I can do!  Two
of the fish were Bleeding Heart Tetras, the other
was a blanck Angle.  All have died rather suddenly
(I will check on them and then notice an hour later
that a fish has died).  Can anyone tell me what's
going on?

Also, I have a red sword that is pregnant (she is
huge!).  I know I have to separate the babies from
her when they are born, how long can I expect her 
to be HUGE! before she has babies?

Thanks for any help you may be able to offer.
Todd (reifenra6638@iscsvax.uni.edu)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: L670899@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM
Subject: Corydoras Catfish Polyp
Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc.
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 17:59:53 GMT

I have 2 Freshwater tanks (20 & 50 gl) both with undergravel filters
and external power filters.  Both contain live plants, and the ammonia
and nitrite levels of both tanks are maintained at 0.0, with nitrate
currently at 20ppm for the 50 gl and 40ppm for the 20 gl.  In the 50 gl
I have a mostly gourami population with 3 albino aeneus (sp?) cats
and in the 20 gl I have a mostly tetra/barb population with 2 regular
aeneus cats.  Approximately 2 months ago, on the largest of the albinos,
there developed a polyp like growth, approximately 1/8th of an inch long
and maybe 1/16th of an inch wide immediately where the dorsal fin met the
back (postierior side).  All of the other fish appeared healthy and fed
normally and I thought it just a tumor of some sort, as it fed and acted
normally as well.  After about 2 weeks it disappeared.  However, a week ago
it reappeared, and last night I discovered one on one of the regular catfish
in the 20 gal tank as well.  None of the 5 books on aquarium fishes had any
reference to a disease of this sort, and on the other hand, did not mention
this as normal for the family either. Does anyone have any idea what
would account for this polyp?  Could it be some sort of parasite?  A mating
display of some sort?  Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

John.
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: fernando@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu (Fernando Pineda)
Subject: Re: yellow star polyps & TEN gallon hex tank
Reply-To: fernando@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu (Fernando Pineda)
Organization: Johns Hopkins University/Applied Physics Labs
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 13:24:41 GMT

Yes, it really is a ten gallon hex tank hooked up to a Quite One pump. The pump
doesn't overwhelm the overflow because:

1) There's a 2-1/2 foot head from pump to tank
2) The hoses are a little narrow and I use ordinary garden variety (literally)
   plastic valves that have rather narrow inside diameters.
3) Part of the flow is diverted to a home made counter-current skimmer
4) I have have two 1" siphons draining the overflow 
   (one is definitely not enough)

Waterflow isn't a torrent, but definitely produces a pleasing current around 
the tank that causes the anemones, macroalgeas and corrals to wave gently but 
firmly. The only problem, as I mentioned before, is heat since the Quite One is 
water cooled.

moss@brl.mil (Gary S. Moss (VLD/VMB) <moss>) writes that his Quite One is 
heating his tank too. I'm taking a two-fold solution to the heat problem. First,
I'm scraping the Quite One and I've ordered the smallest Iwaki pump. Iwaki's are
air cooled and I expect a dramatic temperature drop. Second, I picked up one
of those new-fangled thermo-electric coolers that you can buy from camping
supply and automobile supply stores (~$100). They run off 12volts dc and can
cool down to 35degrees-F below ambient. Alternately, by reversing the polarity 
of the voltage, the thermoelectric unit heats the interior of the cooler.  They 
have no moving parts aside from a fan blowing across the heat sinks. My plan is 
to convert the cooler into an insultated sump with a built-in heater/cooler. 
The thermoelectric component is small and will probably not be able to cool the 
uninsultated 10 gallon tank by more than 5 degrees or so. But this, combined 
with the Iwaki pump, should let me nail down the temperature of the tank to 
whatever value I want in the 75-79 degree range. The only planned modifications 
are to remove and reseal the thermo-electric unit so as to make it watertight 
and to protect the inverts from potentially nasty sealants used by the 
manufacturers.
 
The only unknown that really concerns me is that the heat sinks that are used
on the unit are made of aluminum. The easiest and most efficient approach is to
have the heat sink in direct contact with the salt water and I don't know how
aluminium will interact with the salts. Does anyone out there know of any 
references that say how aluminium corrodes in salt water? Any bad experiences 
with aluminum?

As far as my star polps are concerned, they responded well to a massive water 
change (relatively easy in a small tank). 

Thanks to all who responded to my previous posting. 

-- Fernando

Fernando Pineda (fernando@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
From: fernando@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu (Fernando Pineda)
Subject: yellow star polyps
Reply-To: fernando@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu (Fernando Pineda)
Organization: Johns Hopkins University/Applied Physics Labs
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:12:32 GMT

I'm trying to identify a coral. It has very many "day-glow" yellow star  shaped 
polyps with, typically, 8 points per star. The polyps are attached to 
individual stalks which have the same reddish color as red calcareous algae. 
When fully extended, the full grown polyps are about 1 cm in height and are 
about the same size across. When they're happy and fully extended the coral has 
the  appearance of a dense mat of day-glow grass.

Recently, the coral has started to deteriorate. I suspect a combination of 
factors. My temperature has been difficult to keep down and typically runs 
around  82 degrees. Also we have a rogue anemone that occasionally walks around 
the tank and rubs against it.  We have zero hair algea and 
ammonia=nitrite=nitrate =0. Light is sufficient for mushrooms and anemones to 
thrive. I add some Kent Marine calcium, iodine and iron in addition to 
micronutrients for the macroalgea (not very much macro algea in the tank 
either).  Waterflow should be sufficient, its a 10 gallon hex tank with a 3 
gallon sump running with a Rainbow Quiteone pump. (Next time Ill get an air 
cooled Iwaki!). 


Does anyone out there have experience with this coral? Any help would be 
appreciated.

--Fernando


Fernando J. Pineda
Applied Physics Laboratory
Johns Hopkins University

Fernando Pineda (fernando@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu)
Newsgroups: sci.aquaria