HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: counterpressure bottling
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 03:02:33 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <1992Sep29.185846.3609@linus.mitre.org> can@mitre.org (Christopher A. Nissen) writes:
>Can anyone provide any info on techniques and equipment required to
>counterpressure bottle?  Is it possible to construct the equipment myself? 
>I see articles where people are using this technique to "tap" off a bottle
>for submission to AHA contests and winning besides!  Currently, I am
>kegging 99% of my batches but would really like the option of bottling at a
>later date for gifts, trips, contests, etc.  My local supply store manager

I have had good results by simply releasing most of the pressure to provide
just enought push the beer out of the tap and filling the bottles that way.
In a discussion with one manufacturer (Fox) he told me that the basic problem
is that the beer foams when it hits a warm bottle.  this is easily solved for
a few bottle by putting them in the freezer before  filling.

I don't doubt that for whole batch bottling, they are the cat's meow but
for keggers who just bottle one now and then, it doesn't seem to offer 
much.

js
From: farland@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Bill McFarland)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 23:47:21 GMT
Subject: Munich malt and haze
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I am an extract brewer and previously brewed batches with small amounts
(~1/4 lb) of Munich malt (crushed).  I have liked the flavor and smell,
so last batch I substituted for all the Crystal malt with Munich malt (1 lb).  
I have ended up with a very hazy beer.  I am steeping the grains in a
boiling bag and removing them just as the water starts to boil.

1) Is Munich malt more likely to haze than crystal malt?

2) Is there any way to use substantial quantities of Munich malt without
mashing?

3) What can be done about chill haze in general?  My beers always have
some degree of chill haze.  Does Irish moss or any of the other clarity
products actually help this?


Bill McFarland
farland@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Blackberry Brews
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 18:41:06 GMT

In article <16878AD6C.CDWOOD@lexmark.com>
 CDWOOD@lexmark.com writes:

>I spent many hours this summer fighting Jap. Beetles,
>thorns, and s slew of mosquitos, to pick 15 qts. of Blackberries. I was
>going to make wine out of them but that will take too long. I'm going to
>make a wheat beer from a kit and add the berries to it.
> 
>Soooo..how about it, net brewers...help out a brewer in need of a receipe!

Here's a recipe I just used for a cherry wheat beer:

1) Make a wheat beer.
2) Put three lbs. of cherries in the primary.
3) Rack into the secondary with three lbs. of cherries.

4) Bottle.


John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: The Rice-Brau Challenge (update)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 12:50:10 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


Well, both batches (same wort, different yeasts) have been in secondaries
for a while now.

The wort pitched with 1338 is in a 3 gallon carboy and shows no real
signs of clearing at this point, although the primary fermentation
has been over for a while.  I expect it will start clearing this weekend
or sometime next week.  1338 is not by any stretch of the imagination
a "quick" yeast.  My experience is that primary fermentations finish
quickly but that the yeast takes a long time to drop out, pretty much
like 1007, although maybe slower.

The wort pitched with the Sierra Nevada Pale Ale yeast is in two 1
gallon jugs, and is pretty clear already, although there is still
some secondary activity.

I don't have exact terminal gravities at this point but they were
in the neighborhood of 1.012-1.014.  I think the SNPA yeast was less
attenuative.  A normal all-malt beer with this mashing schedule would
have wound up at 1.015-1.018; at least that's my experience.  So the
converted rice is definitely more fermentable.  (Well, I've known
this all along, but it's nice to add another data point.)

Last time I checked, the 1338 batch had some slight "off" flavors
that I think will probably go away when the beer clears.  The SNPA
batch has that characteristic SNPA flavor and is pretty yummy already.

As an aside, the SNPA yeast flavor is SO characteristic that I think
it limits the yeast's usefulness in, at least, light colored beers,
since most of them would come out tasting pretty much like slight
variations on SNPA.  What luck have you folks had using SNPA yeast in 
dark beers and/or barleywines?

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 80852
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gurakl@aix.rpi.edu (Laura J. Gurak)
Subject: Pumpkin beer
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 03:06:22 GMT

From rpeck@pure.com Mon Sep 28 21:42:07 1992
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Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:20:22 -0700
From: rpeck@pure.com  (Ray Peck)
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To: gurakl@rpi.edu
Subject: Re: Pumpkin beer recipe needed
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: Pure Software, Los Altos, CA
Status: R

In article <dadz6=-@rpi.edu> you write:
>Although a homebrewer myself, I am posting this notice for a
>friend who does not have access to the Usenet. He is looking
>for a recipe for PUMPKIN BEER. If you can help him out,
>please write back to him directly at:
>
> 
>userhd4@.mts.rpi.edu
>  

I hope you'll post this, too.  I know that Buffalo Bill sells his
recipe, but I haven't bought either it or a bottle of the results.


-- 
Ray Peck						rpeck@pure.com
Pure Software						415-903-5100
2111 Grant Road
Los Altos, CA, 94024

-- 
*****************************************************************************
Laura J. Gurak/PhD candidate/Dept. Language, Literature, and Communication
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY 12180/gurakl@rpi.edu
rhetorics of science & technology/social aspects of computing/rhet. criticism
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 00:24:25 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Sep30.135023.15380@persoft.com> (rec.crafts.brewing), gelly@persoft.com (Mitch Gelly) writes:
) In article <hersh.717710601@xenon.lcs.mit.edu> hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh) writes:
) >joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (That's Me!) writes:
) >>) There are lots of reasons why people do what they do and not the least
) >>) of which is just the fun of reingineering something to make it do what it
) >>) was not intended to do.
) >
) >>There are plenty of reasons why netfolk don't buy the roller mill reviewed
) >>in the current Zymurgy, and I doubt that functionality is really one
) >>of them.  Sad, but true.
) 
) Gee, I wonder *why* ?????

(Answer a stupid rhetorical question.)

Well, it's pretty easy to construct a case for Jack being a jerk,
at least by his appearances on the net.  This is, I think, something
of an unfortunate oversimplification.  I personally have never met
him.  From his postings I have found him to be annoying but forthright.  
If he didn't beat dead horses so frequently and contribute ignorant
fear and loathing occasionally, I would find him a lot less annoying.
Whatever.  I have friends who have worse mannerisms.

The point here is, though, that Jack appears to have a useful device
to offer us.  I think I have finally come round the bend to the point
where being incensed by his postings from time to time will not interfere
with my buying a copy of his thingamajig one of these days if and
when I feel like it.  I would like to think most or all of us could
share this attitude.  I don't think he's out to screw us, and I have
to admit I am happier now that I don't see the capital letters all
the time.

) I am not overly concerned with saving a few minutes. I savor all the steps
) in my brewing, and a few extra minutes crushing grain is not going to bother
) me at all. I'm concerned with cost.

I have found it difficult to make homebrewing an expensive hobby.
Really.  I've tried.  I can't find much sensible apparatus that costs
me anything like the stuff I bought to support my aquarium hobby,
my photography hobby, my synthesizer hobby, etc....

Now, there is silly apparatus, like the BITOA pots and stuff, but
the day I spend $2000 to have someone weld junk into 3 15 gallon pots
for me will be a chilly day in hell indeed.

I *might* go for that titanium coil immersion chiller one of these
days, though!

) Brewing is my hobby, not my *job*.

So far it is for me, too.  But my love for my software engineering
career is not that strong, despite my having a certain amount of 
talent ....

:-)

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 80852
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cbrooks@ms.uky.edu (Clayton Brooks)
Subject: Cooking with aluminum
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 05:59:03 GMT
Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences

Yes, I know, you're not supposed to use aluminum.

But I have this Calphalon pot that is the perfect size.

I'm assuming that the only problem in using aluminum is 
that you might get a "can" taste with your beer.
Is there any big danger? (PLEASE TELL ME NOW!!!!)

Also, has anyone used aluminum (for cooking, not fermentation etc)
and did it result in a definite "can" taste?
-- 
 Clayton T. Brooks       _,,-^`--.   From the heart          cbrooks@ms.uky.edu
 722 POT U o'Ky    .__,-'    *    \   of the blue           cbrooks@ukma.bitnet
 Lex. KY 40506   _/              ,/    grass and   {rutgers,uunet}!ukma!cbrooks
 606-257-6807   (__,-----------''   bourbon country    AMA NMA MAA AMS ACBL DoD
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: spgo@is.morgan.com (Stefan Goellner)
Subject: Re: Steam beer
Organization: Morgan Stanley - IS
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:18:31 GMT

Well I just made a steam beer. I used Alexanders pale extract, cascades,
Whitbread Lager yeast. It was fermented between 70-75 (ambient temp in
my closet). I did a 2 stage, leaving in secondary for > 2 weeks. I bottled
and started drinking after 1.5 weeks. The stuff is wonderful. It's very fruity,
very clear, very good. Doesn't taste anything like Anchor, but then it's my
beer not theirs.

--
Stef            aka  spgo@is.morgan.com   DoD#0190 
'82 KZ550 (Commuter) '84 750 Interceptor (Toy) '86 Alfa GTV6 (Money drain)
                Warning: I brake for radar traps. 
        Disclaimer? I don't need no steenkin' disclaimer!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: Full mashing Re: The Rice-Brau Challenge (Recipe + Notes)
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 20:46:03 GMT

In article <01050166.fakhbe@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>  of sparge water used.  Since the pH of the runnings tends to increase
>  with extraction, maximal levels of sparge water can be checked by
>  pH measurement.  Conversely, the high pH of alkaline water itself
>  stimulates extraction.  Finally, the extraction rate increases very
>  rapidly above 74 to 76C, so it is important that temperature be
>  controlled during the sparge.
>
>  --Principles of Brewing Science, p. 120
>
>Now, granted, George could be wrong and Ulick and Jack could be right.
>
>But will you bet your beer on it?

I acidify my sparge water to at most 5.7, and don't overheat it.  I don't
doubt that some tannins are eluted, but mostly later sparges contain
color from darker grains.  In an normally hpped beer, I think tannins
would have to be really high to be noticable.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Ian Biggs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Kegging Systems in a Refrigerator
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:15:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: fox.ibiggs.25
Organization: Atlantic Canada Opportunities Agency (ACOA)


     I was thinking about getting a kegging system recently but one of my 
friends had mentioned that the CO2 cartridges wouldn't work properly if I 
kept the keg in one of my abandoned fridges.  Is this true?  Is there any 
way around this problem?  Will increasing the temperature of the fridge to 
about 10 degrees Celcius make the system work better?

     He keeps his keg on his counter and uses frosted mugs to get the 
temperature of his brew a little colder than room temperature... The only 
problem that I would have with that is there would be a lot of mugs used if 
a couple of friends decided to come by for inebriatory purposes.

    Any and all comments would be welcome.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Edwin Sharp)
Subject: Bottle bombs
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: all
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 23:29:50 GMT

This summer there was a thread on exploding bottles.  Today I came very
close to having my very own bottle bomb.  It was a test batch I had made and
let age a few weeks before opening it.  I had let it ferment till there were no
bubbles in the airlock for a period of ten minutes, then bottled without
priming.  I figured that would take care of over-carbonation since I didn't
bother with my hydrometer.  Today I opened the first bottle.  It was an 
adventure in stupidity.  I had it in a screw-cap bottle so that I could
taste a small part without wasting a bottle, and as soon as I opened the
cap, it began to look like a fountain.  I wrapped the cap in a towel so as
not to make a mess and waited for the foam to stop.  After a few seconds it
stopped shooting out and I opened 1/4 turn more.  That was all it took to send
the cap flying and foam shooting all over the room.  It couldn't have been
more than a few days until the pressure in the bottle would have blown the li
off on its own, which could have been dangerous.  I am using this as a learning
experience to ALWAYS use a hydrometer, as I have been lax about it in the
past.  BTW, the little bit I was able to taste was very good.

******************************************************************************* All animals are strictly dry, they sinless live and swiftly die.
But sinful, Ginful, beer soaked man survives three score years and ten
                                                -origin unknown-
*******************************************************************************
Edwin Sharp
esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu
From: slamb@milp.jsc.nasa.gov (Sean Lamb)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: dixie cup
Keywords: question
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:32:22 GMT
Organization: Loral Space Information Systems

In article <1992Oct5.132018.15132@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, dab@blitzen.uucp (25853-ballard) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> 
|> hey now-  to whoever posted the info on the dixie cup homebrew
|> competition (i don't remember who it was, sorry) how come there's
|> no mention of bitters in the style descriptions?  a friend of mine 
|> wanted to enter a bitter but is afraid of getting wasted for not
|> meeting a specified type...
|> 
|> dab
|> 

I tried to reply to Mr. Ballard via e-mail, but I failed, so here goes.

I think the problem here is semantics.  "Bitter" is a beer that is supposed
to be served on draught.  Once you put "bitter" in a bottle, its "pale ale".
Ora at least that's our thinking (I think).  So, enter the beer in the CLassic
pale ale category, if it's your typical Enlgish ale.  If it's hoppier, with
less esters (not likely, if it's a bitter) then enter it in the American Pale
ale category.  If it's strong, enter it in the IPA category.  Everything is
expalined in the entry booklet, if you write or call for one.

The booklet is available from Defalco's home wine and beer
				(713) 523-8154
				5611 Morning side Dr.
				Houston, TX 77005

------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
(really neat .sig compressed to save 
	bandwidth) --------------------> `
Sean Lamb (slamb@milp.jsc.nasa.gov)
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Full mashing Re: The Rice-Brau Challenge (Recipe + Notes)
Date: 2 Oct 92 17:52:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: ddsw1.BvI9nq.2w8
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL


 
 Article 6249 (7 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
 From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
 
 >In HBD George Fix mentioned that Miller loves recycling 
 wort, but even I can't see how that helps so much.
 
 I have big problems with this too.  It makes no sense how a 
 partially saturated solution could leach more sugar out of 
 the mash than virgin hot water.
 
 >Miller makes a big deal out of 1.5 hr boils to get a
 good hot break.  Any info momily man?
 
 I read the same books you do.  I boil 10 gals down to 7 gals 
 and can't do it in less that 1.5 hrs so I have no feel for 
 the nuances of the issue.
 
 >My final runoff always has 1000 gravity.  32-33 points are 
 still beyond me, although I am going to try and measure 
 volumes and weights better to see if that helps.
 
 There are those who claim you should quit at 1.008 or risk 
 tanninitis.
 
 >>2 hours is too much time if you use any of the higher 
 conversion temps. Not that it would hurt anything.
 
 >Depends on the recipe.  Typically his all malt recipes call 
 for 60 min, but wiuth wheat or adjuncts about 2 hr.  The 
 last beer I brewed, loosely based on his Alt, called for 90 
 minutes.  Igenerally mash at low temperatures to improve 
 attenuation, so usually leave it a while to be sure to be 
 sure.
 
 I am totally confused.  I thought we were talking about boil 
 time and see no connection between conversion temp and boil 
 time.
 
 js
From: amazon@sgi.com (Stormwind)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Buenos Noches tastalike request
Date: 30 Sep 92 21:37:59 GMT
Organization: X Industries, Heavy Weapons R&D

i've recently gotten into homebrewing, 
with my first batch a rousing success
(the ginger version of rocky racoon's
honey beer from the complete joy of 
homebrewing).

next up i'd like to try to make a batch
of christmas beer for my dad for a christmas
present.  he has a particular fondness for
the "buenos noches" mexican christmas beer,
but sadly i don't know enough about the
stuff to be able to duplicate the flavor.

does anyone have a good recipe that tastes
like buenos noches, or have enough experience
with creating one's own recipes to conjure
up something close?

			stormwind
		
			hell's amazon
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Cooking with aluminum
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:07:22 GMT

In article 20548@ms.uky.edu, cbrooks@ms.uky.edu (Clayton Brooks) writes:
>Yes, I know, you're not supposed to use aluminum.

Why not?  :-)

>But I have this Calphalon pot that is the perfect size.
>
>I'm assuming that the only problem in using aluminum is 
>that you might get a "can" taste with your beer.
>Is there any big danger? (PLEASE TELL ME NOW!!!!)

NO!!!  (How's that?)

>Also, has anyone used aluminum (for cooking, not fermentation etc)
>and did it result in a definite "can" taste?

I've used an aluminum kettle for mashing and for boiling for more than
twenty all-grain batches, with no ill effects.

(Can we put that last bit in the FAQ, along with anything "spl" has
refuting the Alzheimer's connection?  I'm starting to sound like a
broken record...)

---
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
          To sight it must ring clear as a bell, it must snap
          in the ear, feel pleasantly sticky between the fingers,
          smell fresh and tempting and taste heavenly.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: what ever happened to the net brew competition?
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 03:18:07 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

In article <jdecarlo.294.717963826@mitre.org> jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
>
>Well, any self-respecting person would be forced to commit suicide after 
>such a statement.

I won't try to understand what that means but...



>Anyone remember who the volunteer judge was?
The judge was to be determines but the promoter and collector of the
bottles was Mark Nightingale, 719 20th St Washougal WA.  I can't
find his email address.

js
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: labels
Date: 2 Oct 92 18:56:49 GMT
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Oct1.220358.27526@genrad.com> mal@genrad.com (Mike A. Long) writes:
>I seem to remember a posting long ago and far away (that I forgot to
>save) on "how to make labels that are easy to remove".  It seems like
>it was something like, soak paper in milk and slap it on, but it also
>seems like there was more to it than just that.  Or perhaps one of the
>follow-ons sounded even better.

According to a book I've been reading on winemaking, many wineries use
a paste roughly equivalent to wallpaper paste to put their labels on.
Judging by my experience the past couple weeks soaking labels off,
I believe it.  Traditional wallpaper paste is wheat-based, though I won't
hazard a guess whether a flour-water mix would suffice as a substitute.

For those among us who aren't afraid to look like computer nerds,
9-track tape labels are generally designed to be easily removeable...
I don't know if the same applies to floppy disk labels.
(For the ultra-nerds among us, you could label your stout as
being "archived in tar format"....)
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing