HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In <9189@alvin.mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes in part:

>One thing he did early on was replace the 195 degree thermostat with a 180 or 
>185 degree version, just to keep the heat down. He says he's never gone over
>about 210 degrees, even climbing up mountains with his trailer.
 
I will second this advice.  I once had a 1984 Jeep with this problem, and
one of my first thoughts was to go to a lower-temp thermostat.  (The first
thought was to strap the guy who designed the fuel line routing under the
vehicle and let him ride around under there for a while to see how hot it
got.)  It worked like a charm.

-Wayne
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gbass@mitre.org (Jerry Bass)
Subject: Quad-4 : Any silent recalls?
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 18:34:56 GMT

At 54,000 miles I have a head or head gasket problem caused by or the cause of
an overheat problem.  Has GM done anything about this that hasn't been
publicised?  Have any warranty extensions been granted.

The vehicle is an '89 Pontiac Grand Am.

Help!  I'm facing some large repair bills....
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Jerry Bass                                  gbass@mitre.org
The MITRE Corporation                           Bedford, MA

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Distributor cap related problem???
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 11:47:13 GMT

In <fagundes.712128416@vincent1.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:

>Hi, 
>  Whenever I start my 76 maverick, it idles and runs like crap for the first
>5 minutes; like the pistons are firing out of order. If the weather is humid,
>it runs like hell for longer periods of time.  I heard that the problem might be an old distributor cap??

and old ignition wires, yes.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: taylor@farm.rtp.dg.com (William Taylor)
Subject: mounting car tires
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 11:26:41 GMT
Reply-To: taylor@rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

If I have a bead breaker, how hard is it to change a car tire?

I have vauge memories of my uncle fighting with a jeep tire.
It didn't seem like he was having fun.

(I'll probably get a bead breaker for MC tires and was wondering if
I should spring for the one that works on car tires also.)

buddy
--
Buddy Taylor            85 Honda Shadow VT500C      Data General
taylor@dg-rtp.dg.com    78 Yamaha DT175             Research Triangle Park, NC
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Rear brake trouble Alfa Romeo Giulietta
Summary: Trouble in removing rear brakes from Alfa 
Keywords: Alfa, brakes
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 09:55:21 GMT

Hi Netters


I bought two Alfa Romeo Giulietta's for $300 and have some trouble.

As you may or may not know, the rear disc brakes on an Alfa Romeo are
near the gearbox/clutch in the back. My brake pads are worn, and I'd
like to replace them.


The brake claw(?) looks like this, seen from the back:



       /------------------------------\   inside
       |                              |
      N|       ---------------   SS   |
    IIN|      |     DISC      |       | 
      N|      |     DISC    nn|       |
       \______/     DISC    nn\_______/
                    DISC
                    DISC


SS is a small bolt to adjust the inner cylinder for the handbrake.

II is an imbus (inner hexagonal) bolt with a nut NN on it to fasten it.
It is supposed to be for adjusting the handbrake on the outer cylinder.

The trouble is: I can put the new brake pad in on the inside, but not in 
the outside. However I turn the nut or imbus bolt, the outside cylinder
ceeps coming to the disk, and no amount of force can move it back.

I can't seem to remove the brake either, because of nut nn.
This is the nut which tightens the brake to the gearbox, but if I turn it 
it comes against the disc and that's it. There is too little space
between the disc and the bolt out of the gearbox to remove the nut.

What should I do? Has anyone any idea how the outer nut NN together
with the imbus bolt II works? How should I turn it?

Has anyone removed such a brake succesfully? My manual says:
remove nuts, remove claw.  :-(

The disc is bolted to the gearbox-axle with six imbus bolts, and you can
guess how corroded they are :-<

Thanks for any advice, eur.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I have several friends with '72-'78 Trans Ams with 400's and 455's.  
Several are running headers.  Be sure to put a heat shield between 
the headers and the starter.  The starter will heat up during high-
speed runs and moderate load situations.  Then you won't get the car 
started again for a while (till it cools down).

Header installation I do not believe was a problem in any case.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Lead additive for fuel: Do I need it?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 07:39:52 GMT

punshon@skorpio.usask.ca (John Punshon) writes:
: 
: The car I own is a 1970 FIAT 124 Spider.  The manual states that
: premium gasoline should be used.  I know in 1970 premium gasoline
: had lead in it, but the only fuel available now is unleaded.
: 
: I guess my questions are something like this:
: 
: 	What is the difference between leaded and unleaded fuel, and
: 	what purpose does (did) the lead serve?
: 
As I understand, the lead serves to keep the valves from spot-welding themselves
to the valve seats, thereby ablating the surface, causing the seats to erode &
the valves to recede into the head.  Recession is always painful.  This causes
your valve clearance to decrease, which could cause them to not close fully,
which makes the seats erode faster, etc etc.

I understand that lead has some lubricating properties, as well, but I don't
know for sure.  Anybody?

: 	Does my engine care whether or not the lead is there?
: 
It depends on how you drive.  If you are kind&gentile to the engine, it probably
doesn't matter.  If you drive the Spider like it should be driven (with vigor
and enthusiasm), it's probably going to hurt it.

: 	If I need to use a lead additive, which brand is good, or
: 	what specifically should I look for?
: 
This might not be an option for you, but the best thing would be to install
hardened valve seats.  This involves, obviously, pulling the heads, & new seats
and probably valves.  I use additives in some of my cars which I don't use
enough to justify the expense of converting the heads on, but I can't remember
whose additive I use...it's one of those 1 ounce/gallon types, with the
squeeze-bottle and built in measuring device, if that helps.  I really can't
tell you how effective it is, except that I haven't noticed problems in those
engines.

: John

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10271 rec.autos.driving:4659
From: gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
Subject: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Date: 28 Jul 92 18:34:20 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: The Dream Chasers Syndicate

The subject line says it all :-)

thanks
d.
-- 
------
"Like a harsh neon streaking  through the velvet darkness 
the whetted knife of Life tore its path through her Dreams"
From:  (Eric Youngblood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Torque, Horsepower and Brake Horsepower
Date: 24 Jul 92 16:00:29 GMT
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx

In article <1992Jul24.142001.9678@mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
|>  If the keepers of the FAQ list want to include this it might be a good idea.
|> 
|>  Torque is rotational force, the force around a circle of a given radius. Its
|> units are pounds-feet in the English system, pounds of force at a radius of
|> so many feet. A lever analogy may help. You can have a long lever and a 
|> small amount of force, or a short lever and more force, and it all comes
|> out the same. The combination of the two is the torque. Torque is one of the
|> two primary qualities of a rotating engine, and is the measure of how hard
|> it will try to twist the load.
|> 
[excellent description of HP, Torque, & curves deleted]

That's about the best & well stated description on the subject I've read in a
long time!

Good post!

$0.02
Ericy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchance@nyx.cs.du.edu (Michael Chance)
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 21:36:01 GMT

Originally, it stood for "Grand Touring", meaning that the automobile was
designed to motor around 2 people plus enough luggage for about 2-4
weeks in relative comfort on long cross-country drives.

Now, it means that the manufacturer has added some schmaltzy
pin-striping, blacked-out out the chrome, put in some gee-whiz gadgets
and gauges, and added $1500-$5000 to the base price.

Michael A. Chance
St. Louis, MO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter)
Subject: Compression ratios
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 17:14:05 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

I have an '87 Monte SS (5.0L HO, stock) and was wondering if anybody knew what
the compression ratio was for this engine.  I was also wondering if anyone new a
conversion from compression readings to a ratio format.

I had my carb. rebuilt due to some extremely rough idling (actually the rough
idle occured after I'd taken it to the chevy dealer for a routine tune-up.  it
went in fine and came out running awful.).  The dealer did the rebuild and
covered it under emissions warrenty even though it appeared that the carb had
been tampered with (i didn't do it, honest!).  The dealer said that the
continued rough idle could be caused by poor compression in one of the
cylinders.  I was able to check the compression in May and found it to be
roughly 160 for all 8.

Can anyone say what sort of compression ratio (formula, rough estimate) can be
extracted from the 160 number?

Any suggestions as to what may still cause the rough idling?
-- 

Eric Alter		alter@rchland.ibm.com
IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rowell@socrates.umd.edu (William Rowell)
Subject: Please buy my MR2.
Keywords: food stain
Organization: University of Maryland University College
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 14:56:54 GMT

1991 TOYOTA MR2 Turbo, Aquamarine Pearl. Loaded. $15,500 Or best offer.

I owe $15,622 on this car and it is placing too much of a financial burden
 on me. Please make me an offer or take over payments of $391/month.

Figures:
	2.0-liter 4-cyl. turbocharged, intercooled engine makes 200HP.
	40K pleasureable miles. 22-30 MPG. 0-60 MPH in 6.0 sec. Top speed 145.
	Tires-195/60R14 85V front; 205/60R14 88V rear. 
Features:
	5-Speed manual, Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, Anti-Lock brakes,
	Driver's side Airbag, Power locks/windows/antenna/mirrors, Fog Lights,
	7-speaker stereo with CD player, T-Tops, 7-way bucket driver's seat w/
	Lumbar, Leather wrapped	steering wheel, shifter, and hand brake.
Care:
	Oil changed ever 3K miles. Slick50 added at 1,000 miles. Original
	tires on front. Rear tires have 28K miles. Washed and waxed often. 
	Never redlined, crashed, raced or otherwise tortured.

-- 
*---Phones----*------------Addresses*-------------------*------Humor--------*
(301)890-4841 * 5600 Fishers LN 4-08* 13707 Colgate Way * "Dis, I claim."
(301)443-4930 * Room 4-08           * Silver Spring, MD *
(800)444-1212 * Rockville, MD 20857 * 20857             *                   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Compression ratios
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:55:34 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Jul24.171405.21854@rchland.ibm.com> alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter) writes:
>I have an '87 Monte SS (5.0L HO, stock) and was wondering if anybody knew what
>the compression ratio was for this engine.  I was also wondering if anyone new a
>conversion from compression readings to a ratio format.
>
>I had my carb. rebuilt due to some extremely rough idling (actually the rough
>idle occured after I'd taken it to the chevy dealer for a routine tune-up.  it
>went in fine and came out running awful.).  The dealer did the rebuild and
>covered it under emissions warrenty even though it appeared that the carb had
>been tampered with (i didn't do it, honest!).  The dealer said that the
>continued rough idle could be caused by poor compression in one of the
>cylinders.  I was able to check the compression in May and found it to be
>roughly 160 for all 8.
>
>Can anyone say what sort of compression ratio (formula, rough estimate) can be
>extracted from the 160 number?
>
>Any suggestions as to what may still cause the rough idling?

Take it to another mechanic.  The chevy dealer is off the deep end.
He messed up you car and is looking for an out.  If your engine has
even compression on all cylinders it does not matter what that 
compression is. 

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 15:47:12 GMT
Subject: Re: checking spark
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, maral@repare.EBay.Sun.COM writes:

>What is the best way (safest as well) to check for spark if one does
>not have a timing light?  I just want to verify I have spark coming
>from my distributor.  

The easiest thing is probably to just pull the spark plug wire from one
of the spark plugs, put a spark plug into the (now) free end of the wire,
rest the body of the sparkplug against some metal, and watch the spark
in the spark plug gap.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

From: larryf@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Larry Ferreira)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 15:40:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Transmission prob. & Redline MTL
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, br@cs.cmu.edu (Bill Ross) writes:


>    Does someone have Redline's phone number handy?

>    Thanks!
>     Bill Ross
>     br@cs.cmu.edu

Red Line Synthetic Oil Corp.
3450 Pacheco Blvd.
Martinez, Ca.   94553

(415) 228-7576



Larry Ferreira
e-mail:larryf@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: checking spark
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 09:21:35 GMT

eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello) writes:
: >: What is the best way (safest as well) to check for spark if one does
: >: not have a timing light?  I just want to verify I have spark coming
: >: from my distributor.  
: >: 
: >IMHO, the best way to check would be to get another spark plug (old one is OK),
: >connect the wire to it, then touch the ground of the plug to the block & have
: >an assistant crank the engine.  It is important that there ALWAYS be a plug
: >on the wire for the spark to go to, otherwise extremely high voltages will
: >be generated & possibly damage ignition system components.
: 
: If you "short" the plug wire , the voltage will stay low (never has a chance
: to build before discharging). The CURRENT will be very high, and possibly
: damage ign system components, as you mention.

Well, what I tried to say is that you don't want an OPEN circuit, either.  I've
seen cars where people pull off the high tension side of the ignition circuit
to keep it from starting, which causes alot of problems 'down the road'.  I'm
sure a short would be, as you mention, bad as well.  The point I tried to
make (but didn't very well, I really HAVE to start getting more sleep) is that
you should check for spark under similar electrical load conditions to what
the system is operating at normally, e.g. use a spark plug.

P.S.  If you need to keep it from starting, just pull off the wire from the points
to the coil...if you have newer stuff than that, good luck; I've never had to
deal with it on my newer cars :)

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Pherrets are Phun!! 
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: pshyvers@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: 25 Jul 92 05:12:46 GMT
Reply-To: pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers)
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corp., Mountain View, CA
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

In article <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>
>Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a normally
>aspirated V-8 engine?
>
>What I've got is a 77 TA w/ the Pontiac 400 cid engine. It was overhauled about
>10k miles ago which included a mild performance street cam (intake .465 / 214 dur
>@ .050, exhaust .480/224 dur @ .050). The heads had a "street-comp" port and valve
>job (whatever street-comp is?). It has forged aluminum pistons and runs at 9.0:1
>compression. The entire crank assembly has been balanced & bluprinted.
>Its induction starts with the open scoop at the base of the windsheild through a
>K&N cotton/wire mesh air filter, Holley 650 vac sec "emission" legal carb. It has
>the original stock Pontiac manifold. The exhaust begins at 1-5/8" Hooker headers
>w/ 3" collectors and includes a crossover pipe. The dual exhaust is 2-1/4" and
>uses high flow mufflers.
>The TH350 is driven by the stock 1200-1800 stall torque converter. The governor
>is adjusted to provide WOT shifts at 5000 rpm. The power is transmitted to the
>wheels through a GM-posi 10-bolt 3.07 differential. Traction is provided by
>Goodyear ST P235R15 radials. Track times indicate an extreemly sluggish 60 foot
>times in the 2 second range, 0-60mph is acheived in ~6.1 & 1/4 mile at ~14.5 secs.
>
>I would like to push the 0-60 time down into the high five second range and
>hopefully reduce the 1/4 mile time into the low 14's is this possible or am
>I about at the maximum for a "street" configuration.
>
>I still have the original 800 cfm Q-jet on the shelf in working order, it doesnt
>get as good gas mileage as the Holley (currently 14mpg city/ 18 highway) but I
>was wondering if the larger flow capacity would boost power? What about intake
>manifold? Are there any that give good low rpm torque but allow better high rpm
>breathing? Is there any evidence that synthetic motor oils can provide a small
>increase in mechanical efficiency?  
>
Aspiration is everything. Consider the intake manifold and carburator: if they
are too small, all the rest is pointless.

My own experience is that playing with the power curve is usually achieved
via the cam and at the expense of pleasurable every-day driving.
From: kari.tiihonen@compart.fi (Kari Tiihonen) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Need info - Headers for 4
Date: 23 Jul 92 12:15:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: ComPart BBS, Helsinki-Finland, +358 0 506 3329 (14 lines V.32bis)
Reply-To: kari.tiihonen@compart.fi (Kari Tiihonen) 

RR>My main concern is with the EFI.  On my motorcycle 
RR>I have had to rejet the card to match the more efficient exhaust
RR>system, but how does one do this with EFI?  Is the EFI smart enough
RR>to handle this by itself, or do I have to purchase one of those
RR>"hot performance chips"?  I'm really lost here...help!

Yes, if it's based on air flow. You can check this out from
manufacturer or some tune-up garrage. If it isn't you have a
possibility to run too lean and damage the engine. Best way to
make it run is to make a 'blue-print' tune-up.

RR>Also, if you have any suggestions about from which manufacturer to 
RR>purchase headers , then please let me know.
RR>I'm sure that Hooker makes them,
RR>but I haven't really checked around.

On my -72 Camaro I have aluminium injected Hookers. They last
forever and probably are the only ones that really fit. Remember
to use right gaskets and buy screws with that hexagonal hole to
get them tight enough.

--- WinQwk 2.0 #0
From: lputchin@digi.lonestar.org (Leo Putchinski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Copper air lines and secondary tanks
Date: 24 Jul 92 22:24:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: DSC Communications, Plano Tx.

In article <1992Jul23.094351.11358@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>gould@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (EWD) writes:
>
>(stuff that anyone following this thread has read many times deleted)
>
>My primary tank is 80 gallons, the secondary around 30(?), so shutoff valves
>are definately a MUST, especially if I go to 2" PVC or something with a large
>volume.
>

!!!!!! Please do NOT use PVC for running air lines. It is extremely dangerous!!!
PVC will become brittle and the shrapmel that it can generate may be fatal!!!

I realize that PVC may be rated for up to 200PSI, but I don't feel that it is 
a good choice for this application.

(other stuff deleted)

regards

leo putchinski
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Drivetrain Vibration
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 18:01:57 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: auto, repairs

 Could be that a tire is slightly out of round or nonuniform and this is
exciting some low frequency resonation. Vans make good boom chambers. 
Mine vibrates all the time. I just live with it.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Compressors & Air Tools
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 13:35:03 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 The air in the tank is heated up by its compression and holds water that will
condense when the air cools in the tank but remains compressed. 

 I wonder if that stuff sold for sealing gas tanks would be a good treatment
for a compressor if it's not too badly rusted. It'd be nice if the tank 
weren't so inclined to rust out.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sci@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (Sci)
Subject: Power Chips
Organization: Bell Labs - Middletown, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 19:28:57 GMT


This kind of ties into the "Increasing Power" thread:

I am looking into "Power Chips" for my '88 T/A and was wondering
if anyone has had any good or bad results from the chips?

Also, recently I seen a blurb in R+T or Motor Craft about the Art
Carr chip that not only altered the Spark/Timing/Fuel, but also mucked with
shift points and torque convertor lock.
Does anyone know the address/phone for the Art Carr people?

Info, recommendations and warnings welcome (I'll even summarize for the net).

-Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw