HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: twl10@ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Tom Littauer (Milk based paints)
Summary: oops
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:28:25 GMT
Reply-To: twl10@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tom Littauer)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1992Sep07.123846.26759@bas-a.bcc.ac.uk> Alan Deacon writes:

>Is it me, or does this board have a very fast turn-over rate? I only tend
>to tune in evry few days, and find most of the articles are cancelled or
>expired. 

Since there's roughly 40 Megabytes a day of traffic on the net, it's not
surprising that systems administrators try to keep it trimmed down...
 
>I know Tom Littauer posted a reply to my original query - but I've no
>idea *what* he posted.

Even *I* sometimes have no idea what I've posted... see below.
 
>Tom could you please re-post, or better still mail me direct. *That* way
>I'll know I've got it.

To my embarassment, I didn't keep a copy. The primary content was to tell
you to get a copy of the December 1991 issue of Fine Woodworking (Taunton
Press, Connecticut USA) which, beginning on page 62, has an article on
milk paints with recipes. I then added a recipe, interpreted from the article 
(which I no longer have in the office). Let me know if you can't get the
article itself and I'll rekey or Xerox or something.

Did anyone else keep a copy? If so, would you be kind enough to mail Alan
a copy? 

Thanks,

Tom

>	Alan Deacon
>	Central Computing Service		Email: a.deacon@ucl.ac.uk
>	University College London		Tel: +44 71-380 7359
>	Gower Street, London WC1E 6BT		Fax: +44 71-388 5406
-- 
Tom Littauer at Amdahl M/S 278, PO Box 3470, Sunnyvale CA 94088-3470 USA
+1 408 737 5056     twl10@juts.ccc.amdahl.com     twl10@amail.amdahl.com
I'll tell you when I'm speaking as Amdahl's Spokesman - usually I'm not.
V'z n fgrnygu-grpuabybtl rapelcgrq .fvtangher ivehf - TBGPUN!!!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: anvil@news.duc.auburn.edu
Subject: File tips
Organization: Auburn University, AL
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 14:08:09 GMT

When you first start experimenting with making tools with cutting edges more
than likely you'll use an old file to start with. They are cheap or free and
have a very high carbon content. Here are some tips about using old files.
1) Pre-1980 files are very high carbon AISI 10130 which means that it got more
than one percent carbon. Treat this kind very carefully never heat it past
orange or forge it below blood red. Quench in pre-warmed transmission fluid and
draw temper to the required hardeness. 
2) Post-1980 files are still high carbon but are AISI 1095 which means .95%
carbon. These are a little more forgiving but not much still do not overheat or
forge below dull red. Some people use a brine quench for this steel but I would 
still use the oil quench.
3) Modern Horse shoe rasps are case hardened AISI 1030 so they will not harden
sufficiently to produce a cutting edge. But they do make good throwing knives.
4) If you are not planning to forge the tool grind off the teeth where the
cutting edge will be.
Grind slowly to shape dipping in water very often to retain hardeness. When 
done put in the kitchen oven at 400-500 degrees for one hour.

Good Luck
John Sugg
Yellow Hammer Forge
Waverly,Alabama USA    

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
ReplyTo: prh@essence.demon.co.uk
Subject: Re: Burco Boiler
Distribution: world
X-Mailer: cppnews $Revision: 1.15 $
Organization: Distilled Essence of Life, The.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 20:47:12 +0000


In article <199209072300.AA24637@kaukau.comp.vuw.ac.nz> andy@comp.vuw.ac.nz (Andy Bond) writes:

> 
> I've just been reading an English book on brewing which refers to
> something called a Burco Boiler.  The book is about 18 years old so
> I'm not sure if these things are still made.  They make a 5 gallon
> (possible 10 as well) boiler with an accurate thermostat that is
> perfect for mashing/boiling.  Has anybody (especially in Britain)
> heard of these?  Could someone give me an address so I could enquire
> into their NZ agents?
> 
 
I have one of those.  I use it for boiling, but not for mashing.  There 
is a variant with a thermostat for that purpose, but I never trusted 
its ability to keep a constant temperature without local boiling - it 
has a 3kW heater!
 
Rgds

Peter Humphrey  |  prh@essence.demon.co.uk         | Voice 0932-343158
Woking, UK.     |  unionjack@cix.compulink.co.uk   | Data  0932-353948
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Helium-charged beer
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 92 19:24:21 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5

So, I just noticed in the new Zymurgy that the Club Night at the National
Conference featured a helium-charged beer.

(!)

Anyone there to experience it?  Any comments?

Has anyone out there charged beer with nitrogen, argon, etc?

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca (Herb Peyerl)
Subject: Brewing mishap.
Organization: "NovAtel Communications Ltd. Calgary, Alberta, Canada"
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 14:42:04 GMT

Reading all of the brewing disasters brought to mind a little incident
that happened to a our first batch of wine that I was whining (I figure
whining is to winemaking as brewing is to brew-making).  It was a kit
wine of lesser quality than your typical non-concentrate wines.  It
went through a nice primary ferment and was in the secondary for a couple
of weeks.  It appeared to stop blurping to I pulled out the instructions
and the "additive pack" for the next step.  Apparently, I was supposed to
draw off a sample of the wine, put the contents of additive pack #3 into
it and then add it back to the fermenter.  This seemed sort of stupid to
me since there didn't appear to be any special need to draw off a sample
first.  So, downstairs I went and approached Mr. Carboy; my wife was 
folding some laundry at the time and came over to chat.  I cut open the
additive pack, took the airlock off the carboy, and poured the additive
pack into the carboy.  It was a glass carboy so I could see the contents
sinking towards the bottom.  I began to put the airlock on when I saw
the bottom of the wine begin to turn furiously cloudy.  Then the cloud 
started approaching the top of the wine... Then it went past the surface 
and, like a slow motion replay, started foaming towards the neck of the 
carboy.  My wife, instinctively placed her hand tightly over the hole
which seemed to cause the foaming to slow down.. However, after a few 
split seconds, her hand began to squeek like when a child tries to hold
the opening of an inflated balloon.  So, my wife decides that to stop the
squeeking, she must place her other hand on the lid... Now she has two
hands on the opening of the carboy, her muscles are flexing more and more
as she tries to keep the precious fluid from escaping.  Meanwhile, I 
realize what's happened and that there's really no way to stop the 
inevitable from happening so I just stand there, watching ready to 
explode in laughter... She looks at me and says: "Well? Do something?".
I told her to just take her hands off and let'er go... She did and it of
course poured all over my brewing table and onto the basement floor
(which thankfully is bare concrete). We only lost about a gallon and 
the remaining 4 gallons was not bad considering it was our first wine.

We named the wine "Liz versus the Volcano".

--
"I was early to finish | hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca <Reply-To>   | I brew |
I was late to start, I | peyerlh@cuug.ab.ca                     | there- | 
might be an adult, but | #define JANITOR "Network Administrator"| fore I | 
I'm a minor at heart." |    JANITOR, NovAtel Communications Ltd.|   AM.  |
-- 
"I was early to finish | hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca <Reply-To>   | I brew |
I was late to start, I | peyerlh@cuug.ab.ca                     | there- | 
might be an adult, but | #define JANITOR "Network Administrator"| fore I | 
I'm a minor at heart." |    JANITOR, NovAtel Communications Ltd.|   AM.  |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: First all-grain brew a disaster (comments and questions)
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 14:55:19 GMT

In article <BuDH9y.364@ddsw1.mcs.com>, arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
|> 
|>  
|>  Article 5627 (10 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
|>  From: pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher)
|>  
|>  Subject: First all-grain brew a disaster (comments and questions)
|>  
|>  >       The lauter-tun clogged.  I made a tun using 2 5-gallon buckets.
|>  .....  Drained it again, attacked it with the screwdriver,
|>  filled, clogged again....
|>  
|>  Sounds like a fun time.  Once again I preach about the importance of 
|>  maintaining water temp.  Not sure what you did but I suspect by the time you 
|>  gave up the stuff was cool enough for Baby Bear to eat.
|>  
|>  Probably the most serious drawback of the plastic bucket system is that you 
|>  only get one chance and this is why I promote kettle mashing as a much more 
|>  forgiving approach.

Just to put an oar in the water as it were, and to point out that there are
other alternatives (with their own pro's and con's), I'll give my version of
the 'plastic bucket' system:

      1) Use two different sized buckets so that the inner bucket actually
         sits *inside* the outer bucket.  This minimizes the space under
         the false bottom and allows the lid to be placed on the outer bucket.
         (the lower rim of the inner bucket needs to be notched to allow 
          runnoff out).
      2) Contact cement closed cell foam to the outside of the outer bucket.
         Thus one obtains some of the advantages of the 'cooler' system (temp.
         stays more constant - less need for upward adjustment).
      3) Perform upward temperature adjustments by decoction (drain some
         of the mashwater, bring it to a boil, pour back into the
         mash, and stir)

|>  
|>  It is not clear when it clogged, whether it never ran at all or clogged 
|>  during the sparge.  The cure depends on which.  If it clogged during the 
|>  sparge, it would probably be the result of the sparge water being too cool.  
|>  Ignore the experts and use boiling water next time.
|>  
|>  If it never ran, you should be able to cure this just by stiring it up again 
|>  unless there is something grossly wrong with your false bottom.  I presume 
|>  that you know it is NOT supposed to run like a fawcet.  It SHOULD trickle 
|>  out.
|>  
|>  >      Counter-chiller was set up, but the hops (8 oz.) clogged the
|>  exit on the brewpot (although I had a strainer over the exit).
|>  
|>  Sounds like you need a proper strainer on your kettle.  Send me email and I 
|>  will send instructions on how to make or buy one.
|>  
|>  js
|>  
|>  p.s.  Congratulations on your valliant effort.  Just nee to debug the 
|>  system:)
|>  
|>  jjs
|>  

Cheers,
Rick C.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Subject: Re: Brewing Questions... Any Answers Out there?
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 22:07:14 GMT

In article <4297@wet.UUCP> sbeitzel@wet.UUCP (Stephen Beitzel) writes:
>In article <1992Sep4.140943.8071@lth.se> kurt@dna.lth.se (Kurt Swanson) writes:
>>sstrong@kean.ucs.mun.ca writes:
>>>4) Lastly, I have heard of a clarifying powder you add at brewing 
>>>time.  Aprox 1/2 tsp disolved and boiled per 5 gal. brew.  What is 
>>>this stuff, and does it work?
>>
>>Probably carrageenan or gelatin, since it is boiled.  I think it works.
>
>
>My local brewshop provided me with a packet of stuff called
>sparkolloid.  The guy at the shop says that it's just powdered Irish Moss,
>which is, in turn, not really moss, but seaweed.  Anyway, it precipitates
>out and takes a lot of the big particulates with it.  It is added to the
>boil during the last 5 minutes.  I am not sure what carrageenan is.  Is it
>the same stuff?
>-- 

Carrageenan is the active ingredient of Irish Moss. It is a complex
polysaccharide with sulfate groups. It precipitates proteins that have
an isoelectic point above the pH of the solution (typically around
5 for wort).

Pierre


Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
From: trodgers@nmsu.edu (Thomas Rodgers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: "Dry" Beer?
Date: 8 Sep 92 02:23:15 GMT
Organization: NMSU Computer Science

> ...The answer that I got was that the dry in beer is the same as the
> dry in wine...

> ...Does anyone think this will do it?

Having never brewed wine before, I don't know all of the facts here,
but it is my understanding that the "dry" flavor comes in part from
the addition of Acid-Blend to the mix (I remember reading this
somewhere in Papazians CJOHB 2ed, but I don't have it handy).

Tom.
From: fmayhar@mpd.tandem.com (Frank Mayhar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Questions using special grains
Date: 5 Sep 92 18:43:49 GMT
Reply-To: fmayhar@altair.mpd.tandem.com (Frank Mayhar)

In article <1992Sep5.122927@IASTATE.EDU> jessie@IASTATE.EDU (Brent Danielson) writes:
>I just put together a brew using a recipe that I got somewhere on the net for a
>Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone.  I didn't have the exact ingredients, but I tried
>to stay close to the recipe.

Is this the Winter's Tavern Pale, posted fairly recently?  If so, I have a batch
of this in the fermenter, to be bottled today.

>The recipe is extract based and calls for 1/4# crystal (40L) and 1/4# crystal
>(80L) amoung other things.  I ordered from the Home Brewery, and their crystal
>came in 20L, 60L, and 90L (I think).  Anyway, if one needs 1/4# of 40L but don't
>have it, can one substitute with 1/2# of 20L?  Is levening or whatever the L
>stands for additive in some fashion?

The L stands for Lovibond, and is a darkness rating.  The number is a rating
of how dark one pound will make one gallon of wort.  The original recipe was
aiming at an overall darkness of 6, which corresponds to an amber color
(using Tony Babinec's rating system).  Your modification gives a rating of
8.5, which is on the low end of a medium-dark ale.  I had the same problem,
and just substituted 30L and 60L crystal, giving a somewhat lower rating of
4.5.  In the fermenter it's a nice golden color.  Your version should be
a little sweeter, since you used more crystal.

>My other question concerns whether or not I've made an Ale Lite or a real beer.
>The starting SG was 1.025 which seems way low (God help me if I've reinvented
>Bud Light).  

My starting SG was 1.045 (@72F); I don't know why yours is so much lower.  Did
you make a five-gallon batch?  Perhaps you could have lost significant malt in
the boilover, although I don't know how.  The trub left behind shouldn't have
affected the SG significantly (I also use an immersion chiller, and racked off
the trub).  Could you have misread the hydrometer?  Could it be inaccurate?

>Anyway, I intend to dry hop when I rack to a secondary in a few days.  I was
>going to use 1.5 oz of Cascade, but if this is a wimp beer, should I adjust
>this?  How much?

This I don't know, as this is my first stab at dryhopping.  If I were in your
position, I would dryhop with .5 oz and cross my fingers.  After taking an
SG reading, of course, just to verify the numbers.

>Why I'm at it, one last question.  I usually prime with corn sugar, but I would
>like to use dry malt this time.  Should I use the same 3/4c amount as is the
>norm with corn sugar?

I typically prime with 1.25 cup DME, boiled in a couple of cups of water.
Since DME has nonfermentables, you have to use more.

Good luck, and let us all know how it turned out!

(Well, time to go bottle.)
-- 
Frank Mayhar  fmayhar@mpd.tandem.com
              Tandem Computers, Inc.  Micro Products Division
              14231 Tandem Blvd., Austin, TX  78728    Phone:  (512) 244-8969
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca (Herb Peyerl)
Subject: Re: aluminum brew kettle
Organization: "NovAtel Communications Ltd. Calgary, Alberta, Canada"
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 14:54:20 GMT

Richard Stueven (gak@wrs.com) wrote:
: I've always used an aluminum pot, with no ill effects that I can
: detect.  Lest I be accused of self-promotion, a couple of r.c.b/HBD

Or that you can remember...

: readers have sampled my beers, and I don't believe they tasted any
: aluminum or developed any strange symptoms from them...
: (you know who you are :-)

Yeah, but do you remember who they are?

: Having said that, I've heard that you can get fairly inexpensive

You've heard but you can't remember where can you?

I dunno... I see a pattern developing...

(Just kidding.. I personally don't go in for the Alzheimer's theory
myself... I think I have an aluminum brewpot somewhere...)

-- 
"I was early to finish | hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca <Reply-To>   | I brew |
I was late to start, I | peyerlh@cuug.ab.ca                     | there- | 
might be an adult, but | #define JANITOR "Network Administrator"| fore I | 
I'm a minor at heart." |    JANITOR, NovAtel Communications Ltd.|   AM.  |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: EichenWiezzen and probs
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 20:36:22 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.225111.12739@medtron.medtronic.com> rp9780@mexico (Rudyard A K Porter) writes:
>fbruno@rapnet.sanders.lockheed.com (F. Bruno) writes:
>: 	1 oz. Oak chips
>: 
>: 	add 1 oz oak chips
>: 	add 1 tsp irish moss
>: 	Let cool
>: 	add water to bring to 5 gals
>: 	pitch Yeast
>: 	OG 1045
>: 9/1/92	FG 1012
>
>The rotten egg smell sounds bad, too.  I think you have a bacteria 
>problem (no offense).
>
>Also, I have never used oak chips before, but they must be sterilized 
>somehow.  It seems that in your procedure you put them into the hot
>boil near the end.  That sounds good.  But if others have ways of
>sterilizing their wood, I would appreciate hearing about it.  I have
>heard of some people "roasting" them.  Comments?

Why add Oak chips at such an early stage (or late - boiling my kill
bacteria)?  I always thought that oak chips were meant to 
duplicate the flavor given a strong ale shipped to India in Oak casks,
which would be a secondary ferment.  Perhaps Oak flaovor would be better
imparted with Oak shavings in secondary.  The beer is more resistent
to infection then.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rjhoffma@iastate.edu (Richard J. Hoffmann)
Subject: When should I bottle? Slow yeast
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 03:23:04 GMT

This is a minor problem, I think, but I started a batch of steam-style
beer two weeks ago this past Saturday.  It fermented vigorously for
about two-three days, then the kreuzen fell back into the beer and I
racked it into a secondary fermentor.  From then on it has been perking
along slowly.  There is a collar of small bubbles that resides along the
glass at the surface of the beer, and a bubble emerges from the lock
every now and then.  I can still see small bubbles rising to the surface
as I watch.  The O.G. was 1.044 (or so), and yesterday it
measured 1.012.  It's still fermenting slowly, even though it's been
over two weeks since it began.  So...

Do I wait to bottle this until all activity has stopped?

(For those who might remember my earlier dismay about my first batch,
which lacks hop flavor and tastes like apples, this batch tastes good
already.  I' glad I got it going, and I can't wait for it to be ready.)

Thanks in advance.

Dick 


-- 
Richard J. Hoffmann              Internet: rjhoffma@iastate.edu
Department of Zoology & Genetics   Bitnet: rjhoffma%iastate.edu@isumvs
Iowa State University               Voice: (515) 294-8075
Ames, Iowa 50011
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mitchell@milpnd.enet.dec.com (Kathleen Mitchell)
Subject: Re: REQUEST: Cider Recipes
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 15:48:04 GMT


In article <189m38INNi9e@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bf703@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Patrick J. Volkerding) writes...
> 
>In a previous article, dcb@rosedale.uucp (Dave Breneman) says:
>[about making cider from apple juice or apple juice concentrate]
> 
>>I've never tried this, and I've never heard of anybody doing it either.
>>Apple juice is by definition pasteurized, usually contains
>>"preservatives" (to kill the yeast) and may be reconstituted as 
>>well, so for all intents and purposes its dead. 
> 
>I've made some very tasty cider from grocery store cheap-o cider
>and cider concentrates. The store I go to has 4 or 5 brands, none
>of which contain preservatives or additives. I usually get whatever's
>darkest, figuring that will have the most flavor. 
> 
>Here's an easy, tasty cider recipe (yum, yum) :^)  :
> 
>Get a 1 gallon jug of apple cider with no preservatives. Open it up
>and pour out 12 ounces into a glass. Dump a melted Seneca Granny Smith
>apple juice concentrate in the jug. Add a small amount of ale yeast. I
>use about a half teaspoon of Whitbread Ale yeast. I found wine yeasts
>produced a cider which was too dry. 
> 
>Cap the jug and shake the hell out of it to airate the cider. Replace
>the cap with a size 8 1/2 stopper (well, that's what mine takes...) with
>a piece of syphon hose stuck in it. Stick the loose end in a glass of
>water and let it ferment until clear. This takes a month or so with no
>yeast nutrient added, but I think the final product is better.
> 
>Prime with .15 cup of corn sugar (dextrose) or .1 cup table sugar 
>(sucrose) and bottle it up.
> 
>I usually let this condition for at least a month, and then suck it all
>down in a wild frenzy ;^)
> 
>Enjoy!
> 
>Pat Volkerding
>volkerdi@mhd1.moorhead.msus.edu
>
From: chris.lincoln%travel@wugate.wustl.edu (Chris Lincoln) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: ST. LOUIS BREW PUBS
Date: 13 Sep 92 11:43:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Travel Online, St. Louis, MO
Reply-To: chris.lincoln%travel@wugate.wustl.edu (Chris Lincoln) 

R.Are there any brew pubs in St. Louis? If so, can you recommend a
R.favorite?

  I like to go to that place that is right next to what used to be the
  Grist Mill in St. Charles.  I think the neighboring restarant is
  C Broadwaters Mill or something like that.  Anyway, I can't remember
  the name of the place.  During the warm weather season, they have
  outdoor seating.  They have a vast selection of imported and micro-brew.
  It's a nice place to sit and have a brew.

  I also like to eat at a place in Chesterfield Mall, Ken's Deli (I think).
  It is the deli on the upperlevel next to Sears.  Another good selection
  of not-so-well-known beer.

  BTW, My first batch of brew will be going into the bottles sometime
  this week.  I can hardly wait until it's ready!

  Chris
---
 . SLMR 2.0 . BTW, FWIW, IMHO, yes. OTOH, AAMOF, maybe not.
                                              
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing