From: dick@sco.COM (Dick Bryer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Safest Way to use A Radial Arm Saw
Date: 23 Dec 92 20:53:15 GMT
Organization: SCO Canada, Inc.

I am not sure that all of the books would always agree with every
thing below, but this is based on 20 years experience and I have all 
my fingers:-). And yes, Sears RAS were built much better then. I still
use the same one. I just finished helping a friend set up his newer Dewalt
I wouldnt trade.

On fence placement: I place my fence so that the saw will park behind it
in its furthest back position, and the blade will be completely behind the 
fence. Reason is so when you place the work on the table and back against the 
fence it isnt touching the blade. This is of course for cross cutting.
The fence doesnt need to be much higher than an inch or 11/2" for normal work,
You also need to do some preparation to your table top. I fastened a piece
of 1/4" particle board to it being very carful to nail/screw in places that
the blade wouldnt cut. This is difficult and certainly somthing like contact
cement would be much better, but there will come a time when you want to change
this overlay when it gets all beat up.  Whether you put an overlay on or not,
when you have the saw set and adjusted( squared, heel set,etc -best done with
help of a manual) run the blade the full lenth of the cut and about 1/8"
deep so the teeth can project below the work. As time goes by this will get
deeper, that is just the way things are.
Also turn the saw to the ripping position-blade inside first- and set to the 
same 1/8 depth . Cut a shallow scoop  across the table the full width of 
the cut. Turn the blade to the blade out position and finish to the edge
of the table. 
Now set the saw to the 45 degree settings first on one side of 90 then the
other and cut thru the fence. Now you are pretty much prepared.

On the topic of pushing vs pulling:
I normally pull the saw toward me thru the work. That way the saw rotation 
is forcing the work down against the table top and back against the fence.
I have read that pushing the saw back toward the back of the table and thru
the work makes for a smoother cut. I am not sure I can explain the logic of
that and it seems that it would be more likely to tear the edge as the saw 
enters the work spinning upwards. It also seems to me to be a lot less safe.

Ripping:  Whole new ballgame. Anytinme I have the saw grab work and throw it
around or pull it in and jamb it has been while ripping. Unfortunately I
dont have sufficient room to set up and run only one way so I have had
more than enough opportunity to decide which way is best. Given choice I would
always feed the board from the "back" of the saw -that is the side where
the teeth are spinning toward you and up. Reaason is that I find it very 
difficult to prevent the saw from grabbing the work and running up on it 
when feeding from the other side. I use the hold down on the back of the 
guard to keep the wood from being pushed up.  I guess on the whole I would
rather have a piece of wood flung at me than my hand pulled into the blade.
Fortunately taking some care can prevent either from happening. 

On the whole I wouldnt trade My RAS for any other piece of equipment. I
cannot emphasize the importance of setting up everything very carefully
and checking often. When my saw is set right, I can cut mitres almost as 
good as a cut off saw, and I can "sneak" up to a cut off line so close 
that if the line is a knife cut, I can split it at the bottom of the V.
Takes a good and sharpe blade too.  Do get a manual, if you cannot get 
a Sears manual, and maybe even if you can, get one of the good RAS books
from your nearest good wood working store. I seem to recall seeing one called
"how to get the most out of your RAS" or similiar.

Good luck, take your time and go careful. You will get more at home with the 
machine and will be able to do more, faster, but never forget to concentrate
on being careful.
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