HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: HELP ME! California Sierra Redwood (Sequoia Giganteum)
Keywords: redwood, sequoia
Organization: Intel Corporation, Santa Clara, CA USA
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 19:30:53 GMT

In article <55684@olivea.atc.olivetti.com> 
elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (GUEST Luigi Elefante) writes:
>in 1989 I bought two plants of sequoia at Big Basin Redwoods State Park;
>now this plants (3 feet and 5 feet) are in my garden in Italy.
>Anyone could help to find books and documentation to grow them?
>If it's possible where I can order by mail books, etc.

The best way to grow them is to leave them alone. There are two types,
Sequoia semperverins, (Coast redwood), and Sequoiadendron giganteum, (Sierra 
redwood), and one more, Dawn redwood from China which is something like 
Pseudosequoia something. These are the only surviving members of the redwood
family. The two California redwoods are Mediterranean plants that take
temps close to 0F and are adapted to wet winter, dry summer climates. The
coast redwood grows the tallest and likes water, maybe 20 - 100 inches/year,
particularly flood basins and summer fog areas. The Sierra redwood grows the 
largest in width and is from a climate with hot and dry summers and wet winters
with some snow. (around 40 inches/year) But both are very drought tolerant. The
Sierran is more Mediterranean than the coastal which is more cool subtropical.
The Sierran will take a snow load, the coastal will tend to break branches
under snow load. Both are tough evergreens that really only need to be left
alone with some space. Both are majestic trees, do you have specific questions?

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: margo@tbird6.prime.com (Margo Kosicki)
Subject: Rose and Dogwood Problem
Reply-To: margo@s35.prime.com
Organization: Prime Computer R&D
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 16:29:57 GMT

	I have a rose bush in my yard that was there when we bought our house. 
All summer I thought this was _some_ rose bush, it grows like a weed and hasn't
had any problems, that is until now.  I just noticed these white patches on the
leaves, normally I would just let it ride, but it is definitely having an effect
on the leaves.  The ones with the patches are starting to curl.  Can anyone
enlighten me and suggest a solution?  I would really hate for this to spread to
my hybrid roses (Angel Face and Unforgettable).

	My other question is about some Red Osier(?) Dogwoods I purchased this
spring.  After I got them planted, I noticed what looked like burn marks on the
stems.  I went back to the nursery and showed them a twig from a bush.  They told
me it was probably from shipping (being tied up).  Well, I wasn't completely
satisfied with their answer, but my husband told me I worry too much so I dropped
it.  

	It's now three months later the bushes have new growth, but now I'm 
noticing brown spots on the leaves and I don't see any bugs.  The bushes don't 
seem affected by this right now, but I'm afraid this might spread to other plants 
or trees in my yard.  I know there are probably millions of "things" that cause
brown spots, but I thought I would ask here before going to another garden center.
By the way, I live in Massachusetts north of Boston.

Thanks,
Margo Kosicki
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: tjgorn01@starbase.spd.louisville.edu (Tim Gornet)
Subject: Re: Pond Building
Organization: University of Louisville
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 13:54:22 GMT


>>>PVC is out and EPDM is in.
>> 

>You should be aware the EPDM is controversially "in".  You have to

I have built 3 ponds with EPDM. To obtain it, just call your local roofing
supply house. It is usually called EPDM rubberized roofing material. They can
also tell you if it has been chemically treated. It is made by BFG and couple
other rubber type companies and comes in .045 and .060 thicknesses and 10,20,
and 30 foot widths. It is very heavy duty and much easier to mold and shape
then the old Tetra flexible PVC liners. It is also cheaper. Try sweet-talking
one of the roofing wholesalers to sell you some of the "scraps", or the end of
the rolls and you can get some good deals. Usually in the range of 40-50 cents
a square foot for .045 and 65-80 cents a square foot for .060. 

As far as contoversial, I have never heard that. EPDM is all my pond friends
and I use and we have had no problem. All we do is scrub off the Talc powder
that is used to keep the EPDM from sticking to itself. And we have used 
different sides up with no problem. My ponds have survived raccoons, foxes,
dogs, a clumsy deer, and a neighbor kid trying to spear fish my goldfish with
no problem. 

In summary, call your local wholesale roofing supply house and good luck.
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Gornet					PHONENET: (502)588-0714
  Computer Aided Engineering Consultant 	FAXNET  : (502)588-8890 
						SLUGNET:
INTERNET: tjgorn01@starbase.spd.louisville.edu	  CAE Center
BITNET  : tjgorn01@ulkyvx.bitnet         	  University of Louisville
         					  Louisville, KY 40292
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: mrh@centerline.com (Mike Huben)
Subject: Re: Hummingbird-like insect?
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 13:43:52 GMT

In article <1992Aug11.215920.673@calmasd.prime.com> jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes:
>I'm getting confused.  I thought that someone said that sphinx moth
>came for the tobacco/tomato horn worms.  Now it sounds like there may
>be several species of the moth and ones that are being discussed in
>this thread are from the east part of U.S.
>
>So what do we have in California?  We definately have the
>tobacco/tomato horn worms; and though it has been a few years (OK many
>years) they look just like the ones we had when I was a kid in Texas
>and Kansas.  I've also seen hummingbird moths here.  So do we have a
>different species here?  Also what doese diurnal mean?

Sphinx moth is the colloquial term for any member of the moth family
Sphingidae.  It's a fair sized family, with around a hundred US members
(off the top of my head: I don't have my references here at work with me.)
Most are medium to large sized night fliers, but a few are day fliers
(diurnal.)

In my experience, the commonest species in the south western US are the
tobacco sphinx and the white-lined sphinx.  Both of these have really
extensive ranges, so you've probably seen them in TX, KS, and CA.

Somebody should check The Moth Book, by Holland, to answer all these questions
about the Hummingbird/Bee sphinxes in the genus Haemorhagica.  I've also
seen them coming to bee balm and liatris.  They are almost as much fun to
watch as hummingbirds.

Mike Huben
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: NEED ->>FAQ list of nurseries that sell trees (5 to 8 feet)
Date: 13 Aug 92 01:12:13 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <17065@ulysses.att.com>, shankar@ulysses.att.com (Shankar Ishwar) writes:
> I have received several catalogs from nurseries that sell seeds,
> shrubs, trees, fruit and veg. plants. Each one of them list
> trees which vary from a few inches to 4 feet. Even the 4 foot
> tree is typically a single stem.
> 
> I was wondering, if I could get trees of good sizes, like in the
> local nurseries, about 5 to 8 feet, with healthy trunks of 
> 1 to 3 inches in diameter, with the root ball burlaped.

The major problem with trying to buy balled & burlaped trees by mail
is that they are just TOO big to ship UPS or Parcel Post.  So now you're
talking truck delivery = $$$$$.   If you want a bigger tree than the
local garden stores handle, or a large tree of a species they don't handle,
talk to the manager about special-ordering you one when they order their
trees.

Of course, bigger trees are also harder to plant, harder to get reestablished,
and harder on the wallet than 4 ft bare root specimens...

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI
From: Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Corn pollination: how?
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:23:01 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

I heard somewhere that corn must be hand pollinated if you only have a few
plants.   So how do I do this?   And when?

I have 8 corn plants in each section, and the sections were planted at various
times in order to stagger the crop.   The plants in the first section are now
about 10 feet tall, and cobs are growing on them. :)

I'd appreciate your advice on how to pollinate my corn.   Thanks!

--

==========================================================================
Christine Code                 *  Searching for members and descendants
                               *  of these families: Code, Codd, Mudgett,
Vancouver, B.C, CANADA         *  Stewart, Tetlock, Sealy, Seely, and
Christine_Code@MindLink.bc.ca  *  Willows.
===========================================================
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pond Building
Date: 19 Aug 92 05:56:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.714294265.F00001

Hello sjs!

18 Aug 92, sjs writes to All:

 s> Argh.  What does EPDM stand for?

Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer

 s> And why is it "in"?  I thought butyl
 s> liners were the best because they stretch more easily, eliminating bumps
 s> and wrinkles,

nope

 s> and because they are strong enough to withstand pets and
 s> racoons and whatnot.

     PVC is very strong and it can withstand pets, racoons and whatnot,
but it is a poor pond liner.

     EPDM and Butyl are chemically similar.  So similar that in
real world situations they are almost, or are, the same.  The
difference is that Butyl is much more expensive.  EPDM (and Butyl)
are available from roofing people (check your yellow pages).  The
two leaders in the field are Firestone (trade name "Rubbergard")
and Carlisle (trade name "Sure-Seal").  45 mil is
best for garden ponds (I use 60 mil myself).

     PVC does not have the UV light block that Butyl and EPDM has.
PVC will not hold up.  PVC is not the product of choice in pond
construction.  PVC is cheep and you can get it at almost any garden
supply center, that's why it is used, but it does not last.  If you
want to use it you need to design around it.  For example line the
pond with flagstone so that the lip of the rock overhangs the top
of the pond, throwing a shadow on the inch or two of exposed liner
at the top of the pond.  This is where the sun will do the most
damage; block the sun, and you will extend the life of the pond a
few more years, maybe.

     The Garden Pond BBS is for pond construction, and aquatic
plant information.  We have pond files and a pond message area.  I
just returned from the NW International Water Lily Symposium in
Boise.  Stop in sometime if you need more info. 1-503-735-3074.
Complete pond construction is beyond the scope of this message, but
I am happy to answere any questions I can.

     Good luck!
Jack
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: reg@dptg.att.com (51351[efw]-Regina Mackiewicz(MT4799)1374MT)
Subject: Any experience growing peanuts?
Keywords: peanut help needed in NJ
Organization: AT&T BL Middletown/Lincroft NJ USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 13:32:39 GMT

my experimental crop this year is peanuts.  i thought i would give
it a try and it might turn out to be fun.  we've had LOTS of rain recently
and now i notice the leaves on the foliage are starting to turn yellow on
the ends.  has anyone had ANY experience growing peanuts??? 

any hints, tips, experience appreciated

thanks

reg
From: del_col@ab.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Blackspot-Resistant Roses
Date: 14 Aug 92 05:03:39 GMT
Organization: Alderson-Broaddus College

In article <713401373.0@kcufgat.fidonet.org>, Bob.Batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org (Bob Batson) writes:
> Reply-to: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
> 
> On page 70 in the Sep/Oct 1992 issue of _Organic Gardening_, Pam Coath
> says the following roses are "blackspot-resistant in the East."
> 
> FRAGRANT CLOUD
> QUEEN ELIZABETH
> PASCALI
> SWEET SURRENDER
> TIFFANY
> BRIDE'S DREAM
> MARIJKE KOOPMAN
> PRECIOUS PLATINUM
> PEAUDOUCE (ELINA)
> CANADIAN WHITE STAR
> PINK PARFAIT
> FOLKLORE
> MAID OF HONOR
> 
> She also recommends the following old garden roses.
> 
> KONIGIN VON DANEMARK
> JACQUES CARTIER
> ROSE DE RESCHT
> CORNELIA
> NEW DAWN
> 
> 
> *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
> 
> Bob Batson
> 
>  * Origin: From the north forty in Kansas, USA! (1:280/322.3)

In my experience, Rose de Rescht is definitely NOT resistant to blackspot.
I have been growing it for two years now, and it has suffered considerably
from blackspot infection. Conscientious treatment with different fungicides
has barely kept it in check.  

	The most blackspot resistant roses I have are all rugosa species
or hybrids including Sir Thomas Lipton, R. rugosa rubra, and Therese Bugnet.

Also, the moss/damask crosses Salet and Alfred de Dalmas have resisted
blackspot very well.  The spinosissima/damask cross Stanwell Perpetual
and the David Austin hybrid, Constance Spry are also extremely tough
against blackspot, at least in my experience.  The china/musk hybrid
Nastarana and good old R. gallica never show the dreaded ebony patches either,
though gallica can suffer from mildew rather badly.

J. Del Col
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister)
Subject: buddleia
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: 17 Aug 92 18:28:55 CDT

Thanks,

Jill McAllister
(jill@cray.com)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bobw@csg.uwaterloo.ca (Bob Wildfong)
Subject: Re: Corn pollination: how?
Organization: Computer Systems Group, University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 17:46:27 GMT

In article <14222@mindlink.bc.ca> Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code) writes:
>I heard somewhere that corn must be hand pollinated if you only have a few
>plants.   So how do I do this?   And when?
>
>I have 8 corn plants in each section, and the sections were planted at various
>times in order to stagger the crop.   The plants in the first section are now
>about 10 feet tall, and cobs are growing on them. :)

Corn often won't produce cobs unless several plants are planted in a block.
This is because the cobs must be pollinated before they will grow.
Good news - if you have cobs growing already, you don't have to hand-pollinate.

I'll answer your question anyway, though.

Corn plants have separate male and female flowers.  The tassel at the top
is the pollen-producing male flower.  The female flowers grow on the
stem and eventually turn into corn cobs (the fruit).

To hand-pollinate your corn, wait until the tassels have "opened" so that
the arms of the tassels make about a 90 degree angle with the stalk.  They
should have started to produce pollen by this time.
Look along the stalk and find the female flowers.  They are the silks that
later end up on the outer ends of the cobs once the cobs have grown.
Remove one or more tassels and transfer the pollen to the silks.  One way to
do this is to put the tassels in a small paper bag, close the bag and shake
it, then carefully pour the dusty pollen on the silks.  You don't need much
more than a pinch on each.

N.B. This method is just for casual corn-growing.
It is not to be confused with the hand-pollinating method used for isolating
different varieties of corn in seed production.  If you were hand pollinating
to prevent different types of corn from cross-pollinating, you'd have to be
much more careful, putting bags over the tassels and silks to prevent them
from being contaminated by stray pollen... a much more finickity process.

Did you say 10 feet tall?  Good thing you don't have to hand-pollinate them.
:->

Bob Wildfong                                       bobw@csg.uwaterloo.ca
Waterloo, Ontario                                  bobw@csg.waterloo.edu
AgCan zone 5a, USDA zone 4 (on a windy hilltop)

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: Re: horseradish
Reply-To: dadams@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 17 Aug 92 13:34:13 CDT

In article 77654@ut-emx.uucp, ccel001@shallot.ots.utexas.edu () writes:
|Anyone out there (where are all of you anyway?) grow horseradish? I'm  
|trying to find horseradish plants to put in my garden and am having no  
|luck.
|Does anyone know where to get some?
|Does anybody out there grow horseradish? 
|Is it hard/easy to grow?
| 
|Thanks,  Gene Titus.   

I just got my horseradish from the grocery store and put it in the ground.
It took a long time to get going.  Now it is a couple of feet tall.  Things
have been going very slow.  I assume it is in part due to the cool weather
we have been having.


---
--David C. Adams  Statistician  Cray Research Inc.  dadams@cray.com
___________________________________________________________________
       member--Minnesotans for Global Warming.
From: Colleen.A.Everett@cs.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Earwig Problem
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:25:55 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA



My mother has tons of earwigs living in a flower garden next to her patio.
I am unable to locate previous postings regarding earwigs, and I wanted
to know what the remedy is to wipe them out.  Any suggestions?

thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pharvey@mipos3.intel.com (Paul Harvey)
Subject: Re: HELP ME! California Redwood
Keywords: sequoia, redwood
Organization: Intel Corporation, Santa Clara, CA USA
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 18:10:19 GMT

In article <55703@olivea.atc.olivetti.com> 
elefante@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (GUEST Luigi Elefante) writes:
> I think the best period seems october before snow because I'll plant

Fall is the best time for planting, just before rainy season if climate is
Mediterranian.

> I'd like to know book titles about the argument.

I don't know, but this is like asking for books on how to grow Italian Cypress,
see what I'm saying? These are not delicate, tempermental, pure-breed trees.
Look for any botanical books on the California Redwood forest or the Douglas
Fir Forest of the Pacific Northwest which is very similar.

>the locality is 2600 feet (~800 metres) high!!! [Italian Alps]

Do you have the European Fan Palm in that vicinity? Redwood should take more
cold than Fan Palm. The thing to look for is cold air drainage. If this 800
meters is a small valley with higher peaks around, the cold air from the
higher ground will drain into this valley and make it very cold, what you have
is sometimes called frost hollow or some words similar. If the 800 meters has
land below it at lower elevation, the cold air will drain away and you have
what is sometimes called a banana belt. Do you get the hot dry mountain winds,
called foerns or scirocco or santa annas like they get in the Rhone valley in
summer? Redwoods may not tolerate these hot dry mountain summer winds. But
go ahead and try it, you never know. It seems like the area should be fine
for Redwood.

>I have another information about: I bought the plants in a test tube in
>Big Basin State Park (near Santa Cruz) like these sold in Sequoia National
>Park and in Yosemite. Do anyone know what kind of plants are these?

Probably Coast Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens, but maybe Sierra Redwood,
Sequoiadendron giganteum. Big Basin is coastal redwood, Sequoia National Park
and Yosemite is Sierra Redwood. How to tell them apart:
Coast Redwood: Leaves like fir trees, they are flat on the branch and the
new growth is in the pattern of a leaf formed by different length needles. The
needles are soft to the touch.
Sierra Redwood: more like a true fir tree, needles are course
Dawn Redwood: drops it's needles in winter, deciduous conifer.

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu (Vince Summers)
Subject: Butterfly Weed
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory
Distribution: rec.gardens
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 16:59:37 GMT

     I have only one Butterfly Weed on my property, although I planted a
few dozen seeds this spring.  A partly bright-colored bug was at last 
spotted as the culprit who makes a meal of the flowers before seed can set.
Does anybody know what this is (probably)?  Sorry I can't be more definite
as to description.  Also, does it take two years for the plant to germinate?

Vince Summers
(a member of Virginia Native Plant Society)
vsummers@polaris.cv.nrao.edu
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pond Building
Date: 14 Aug 92 17:19:53 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <BsyMpC.2IL@well.sf.ca.us>, lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond) writes:
> Well, I've realized a big logistical problem: I want rocks to surround the
> pond and be the liner holder-downers. So I figure that's maybe 50-60 one
> foot in diameter round flat bottomed rocks. Well, the woman at American Soil
> Products tells me they're likely to be 75 lbs. each, and the only way they
> can get delivered is to dump them, expecting breakage, at the top of the
> drive (or wherever). 

Yep, unless you go to cut stone, you can figure the company is probably 
going to just dump them.  So you'll need to order more.  They ought to be
able to give you an idea of the amount of breakage to expect.  You'll
want some smaller pieces anyhow, probably, if you want it to look +/-
"natural".

As to transport, I moved about 50 chunks of limestone up a 20 ft hill
when I was about 12 or 13, to make a rock garden.  Couldn't pick
them up, but I could edge them onto a snow shovel (yeah, I know, what's
that? ;-) ) and drag them up on the shovel, using that as a sledge.
I finally got smart and added a pulley and winch to help drag them up 
the hill.

Alternative transport is probably a wheelbarrow, preferably maneuvered
by a good-sized young male who would like to earn some money and get into
shape for fall sports training anyhow.

Are you going to be using a sand base under the liner?  Sand isn't exactly
light either, when you're moving a wheelbarrow full...

Kay Klier

  
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: vmb@media.mit.edu (V. Michael Bove Jr.)
Subject: I finally have tomatoes
Organization: MIT Media Laboratory, Horticultural Division
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 17:15:09 GMT


Last night, I finally got my first ripe tomato (a San Marzano) -- only
about four weeks behind my usual date. This is in east-central Mass.,
and we're talking about plants that were a foot tall in mid-May. I
just hope we have a late frost!

At the same time, though, the spaghetti squash harvest this year is a
bit ahead of usual, and what's left of my first lettuce planting is
just now starting to bolt, so there are a few consolations to go with
this oddball weather :-)

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill Mcjohn)
Subject: Re: buddleia
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:09:46 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Distribution: na

In article <1992Aug18.114821.16267@hemlock.cray.com> 
jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister) writes:
>
>Does anyone know how big a buddleia will get in USDA zone 4?  

If this is Buddleia davidii (butterfly bush), my guess is that 
the usual varieties (like Black Knight) will reach about 6 feet 
in a summer.  Around here, the standard advice is to cut them 
back to the ground whether they die back or not, since the young 
shoots are more vigorous and floriferous.  Thus, if you can nurse 
them through the winter with mulch and a protected spot, they 
should do fine.  (They make a slow start in the spring, but grow 
quickly once the weather warms up.)

This does mean that they'll only work as a screen in mid to late 
summer, once they've grown tall enough.  But a hedge of these should 
drive the butterflies wild.

Bill McJohn
billmc@microsoft




Newsgroups: rec.gardens