HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.photo

I just had an interesting idea...

One of the most rewarding aspects of photography is being able to see
the work of others. I get a lot of inspiration from seeing other
people's work. Also, being able to ask people about how they made such
and such a shot is often of great value.

Also, it seems that there is an enormous reservoir of knowledge on
rec.photo. People sure seem to understand the technical, nerdly details
really well. If people's artistic sides are as excellent as their
technical sides, we're dealing with a group of truly outstanding
photographers.

What about having some sort of gathering... maybe a slide show or an
exhibition of prints for people on rec.photo? Would anyone be interested
in this?

There would be all sorts of problems to solve, first. For one, this is a
worldwide group. We surely couldn't all converge at the birthplace of
Ansel Adams for a weekend. Perhaps, though, various regions of the world
could have their own gatherings. Certainly there is a large enough
community in and around the San Francisco Bay Area for such a gathering.

Next we have to decide what to exhibit. Slides or prints. If we go for
slides, all we need is an auditorium. If we go for prints, we need a lot
of wall space. We'd also have to limit each participant, to say, no more
than three contributions.

And would we have a contest? If we did, I, for one, would enter, if only
to bring down the average. Despite my fiercely competitive nature, I
am a good loser. Besides, I would learn so much from the critiques.

Is anyone interested in this or do I just my motor drive stuck on?

Allan
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: D98O@BR1.HRZ.TH-DARMSTADT.DE (Jochen Fuehrer)
Subject: Re: New question for Photo Techies
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:09:57 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24
Organization: TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY DARMSTADT, GERMANY

In <1992Dec23.044712.8935@digi.lonestar.org> gpalo@digi.lonestar.org writes:

> A while back I proposed a system where the camera would record electronically
> information about exposure, lighting conditions, etc., on a magnetic strip
> embedded in the film, to be used by the automatic printer in creating the
> final print.  This got mixed response, but I just thought of an even better
> use for this or a similar technology:
> 
> Let the camera record the number of frames exposed on the film.  This way
> you could easily unload a roll midway through, change film, then go back
> to the original partially exposed roll and go automatically to the next
> available unexposed frame.  The information could be recorded at the start
> of the film on some kind of magnetic area.  The camera would update the
> number on unloading -- of course you would want to be able to unload
> with the tongue exposed.
> 
> The upshot would be nearly the equivalent of interchangeable film backs
> for 35mm cameras.
> 
> Any takers?
> 
> Gerry Palo (73237.2006@compuserve.com)

I guess a pencil and a piece of paper will do the same job (at least they
do for me) at a fraction of the cost. The only disadvantage: You have to
push the button n times. :-)
Jochen

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: EP-2 or RA-4 in JOBO CPE-2
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 09:19:05 GMT

al@crucible.powertools.com (Al Evans) writes:
: In article <1992Dec14.131127.22951@tijc02.uucp> kjf388@tijc02.uucp (Ken Fisher          ) writes:
: 
: You will change to RA4 and you will be very happy. The chemicals are
: much faster to mix, and the developer is much more stable. The paper
: is actually white, instead of yellow. I supppose you could develop it
: in such a way that the colors would come out wrong, but I don't really
: know how -- apparently anywhere between 45 seconds and 2 minutes at
: 95 degrees F works just fine.

How does this chemistry compare to the Jobo Printmaster stuff?
It allows about 10% variance either way on developer time for
contrast control. At 95 degrees F - the time is 75 seconds.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: 430ez niggle
Date: 27 Dec 92 13:37:46 GMT

In <1992Dec27.200429.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au writes:

>In article <1992Dec24.205338.11007@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>, acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
>...
>>                   They found the 430EZ gave
>> "perfect coverage" and the controls "well laid out".
>> 

>Pity they didn't illuminate the control ledgends. Remember to memorize the
>control layout of your 430 BEFORE you need to use it in the dark...

Actually, I don't have much trouble remembering the 430EZ controls,
and the illuminated LCD allows you to see what's happening.

The button combinations on the 630 on the other hand...

>~Paul

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Why NOT to get a Stylus
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 92 18:06:10 GMT
Re: Olympus Stylus Recommendations



The funniest thing about the Olympus Stylus is how many people are
taken in by Olympus' advertising.

I sell cameras at The Good Guys (We Know Our Stuff tm :) and I
always show them what the Stylus is REALLY about, and I either sell
them a Yashica T4 (Superb Zeiss lens) or the Konica Big Mini (We
have the new Gold finish ones).

In the Stylus, the viewfinder IS too bloody small, what, 3mm in
diameter (from the front)? The flash is so bloody close to the lens
you get red eyes, unless you use the disco flash. The sliding cover
switch will wear and the camera shuts itself off if you moce it
slightly, and if you close the cover too quickly you can jam the
lens under the cover, because the lens has to get out of it's way.
Compounded of course if you have a weaker battery. And so much of
the lens sticks out it is likely to get scratched.

$129.99- sales $119.99, QD kit (mousefur case, battery, QD) $159.99

At least with the Konica, you get a larger viewfinder, metal
body (front case), variable power flash, exposure compensation (1.5
stops over AND under), coated glass skylight protective filter, and
it is MADE IN JAPAN. (The Stylus is assembled in Hong Kong). For
those nay-sayers who don't like the glass filters, Konica has a
lifetime warranty on them, if they get scratched or broken, Konica
will replace them (the filter, not the camera). And I've never seen
anyone who scratched their viewfinder covers.

$119.99 gray or gold metallic, QD model $129.99

Yashica T4, what can I say? Zeiss T* Tessar lens, Multibeam AF
focus, automatic backlight compansation, infinity focus, 100 step
AF, closeup to 1 foot, non-disco red-eye reduction flash (notice
that it is frosted to diffuse the flash a bit)

$179.99, QD model $199.99

By the way, both T4 and BigMini are SLIMMER than the Stylus, the
Olympus has that big ridge in the front.

To summarize, Konica- smaller, better made, easier to see through,
better flash.
Yashica- far better lens, better focus and exposure system.

-- 
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From: madler@spooge.bxb.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Developing Tech Pan; hints?
Date: 29 Dec 92 16:40:33 GMT
Reply-To: madler@vssad.DEC.COM (Michael C. Adler)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

Based on rather limited experience I highly recommend Tech Pan for
35mm work.  I tried a roll recently after a recent snow storm because
I wanted exceptionally fine grain to show shadow detail in snow.
The results were wonderful.  On 11x14 enlargements there is only the
slightest hint of grain and only then when examining the print at
an abnormally close viewing distance.  Pine needles were resolved
with exceptional clarity and detail in bark was captured quite nicely.
I was happy with detail throughout the density range.

I exposed around ASA 25 but metering was difficult in the snow and I
didn't know what to expect from the film.  Now that I intend to use the film
more I'll be more rigorous but I'd guess that ASA 25 is a good starting
point.

I developed in Technidol liquid for the recommended time (9 min @ 68 F)
using the recommended agitation (quick up and down shaking for 2 sec.
every 30 sec. without inversion or rotation of the tank).  I ignored their
annoying method of putting the film in a tank already filled with developer
and used a long presoak instead.  Don't be alarmed when most of the dye
washes out in the presoak.

Of course I used a tripod.  The biggest problem was wind.

Good luck,
-Michael

P.S.  I almost forgot.  The resulting negatives were quite dense but
      the contrast was right on target for my diffusion enlarger.  If
      you are using a condensor you might consider shorter development.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Anyone do their own C41 developing?
Date: 31 Dec 92 10:50:58 GMT

In <PHR.92Dec30182337@napa.telebit.com> phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:

>I guess I might try using my bathroom sink as a tempering bath
>if I try developing C41.  Might also try Polachrome, or just stick
>with black and white.

I recall reading somewhere that Polachrome is relatively fragile stuff
(easily scratched).  You might want to look into that first.

A friend of mine tells me that there are little machines
photojournalists use to do developing of negatives on-the-spot
(something like the Polachrome machines, I think).  I have no idea if
it's colour or not.

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Outgrowing your gear
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:04:20 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <PHR.92Dec22143213@napa.telebit.com> phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:
...
>I don't think you really want to fumble around putting an adapter on
>and off when switching lenses between new and old bodies.  Especially
>a screw-thread adapter.

I would say it's not much different than fumbling around
unscrewing lenses in the first place.  Or fumbling around dealing
with extension tubes or teleconverters or anything else that fits
between a lens and a body.

-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
From: hasker@cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Mystic Color Lab
Date: 31 Dec 92 14:26:53 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL

Has anyone tried out this lab?  They sent me a "special introductory offer"
last week and I was wondering if I should bite.

Rob
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Tamron 90/2.5 macro
Date: 31 Dec 92 03:18:19 GMT
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science, Kista

In article <1992Dec30.221153.20816@colorado.edu> duli@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Li Du) writes:

>In article <PD.92Dec30212624@horus.sics> pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:
>>It is based on a test by the magazine "Aktuell Fotografi". The Tamron
>>90/2.5 macro and the Zeiss PLanar T* 85/1.4 got the highest ratings in
>>a test of 34 short telephoto lenses from 85mm to 135mm. All the major
>>brands were represented.
>>
> What you have quoted above only indicates that Tamron 90/2.5
> performed very well in normal shooting range. It didn't say
> how well it performs as a macro lens.

That is correct. Unfortunately the test did not test the macro lenses
(there were 9 of them) in the macro range.

> I have never used the
> Tamron 90/2.5 macro, so I can't comment on its quality. But
> to say it is nearly as good as a Zeiss Planar T* 85/1.4 means
> practically nothing when "macro/micro" is the main concern.

Well according to the test the Tamron was not "nearly as good" as the
Zeiss, it was *as good*.

> There may be significant differences between a good short tele-
> photo lens that happens to focus down to macro range, and a
> good macro lens that can also be used as a short telephoto lens.

Yes, that is why it is a little bit amazing that a lens that
supposedly is optimized for macro is the best lens among the short
telephotos for normal shooting.

> I would not want to use the Zeiss 85/1.4 for macro work even if
> I can somehow make it focus down to 1:1.

Oh, I would. If it were the only lens I had...
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
From: sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 30"x40" enlargements..
Date: 21 Dec 92 21:38:22 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cray Computer Corporation

In article <lakhindr.724699675@bowmore.NSD.3Com.COM> lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia) writes:
>Hi, this size of enlargement from a 8'x10' negative..? No 

Gee, I *might* be able to transport an 8ftx10ft camera if I got
a trailer, but I don't have anough room for the enlarger (especially
since the lens would have a 12.8 foot focal length) in my darkroom.
And I was hoping to get into large format ;-).

Steve
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 29 Dec 92 17:30:03 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <1992Dec29.122948.26657@eua.ericsson.se> Harald.Brandt@eua.ericsson.se (Harald Brandt) writes:
>In article <BzzBo5.3r9@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) 
>writes:
>> PS When are you getting the 85L to complete you lens inventory :)
>
>No, I am not buying that, I am not so fond of 85mm, more so of 105mm, but 
>while we are dreaming, I list the toys I have been looking at: 24mm/L TS 
>or/and 45 mm TS, 100/2.0 USM, 100/2.8 Macro, 50mm/2.5 macro, Extender X2.  
>And I am actually planning to buy the extension ring EF25 (the store in UK 
>(York Cameras) could not get hold of it, nor could they get the lens hood 
>to the 28-105).  If there were a 35-105/2.8 I would consider buying that, 
>but the current 28-105 has the nice feature of being very small and light, 
>so it is perahps the perfect lens when I do not want to carry to much.  
>Concerning the TiltShift lenses, they do unfortunately not have AF, which 
>means they cannot serve as a combination of special lens and general 
>shooting lens. They seem to be made exclusively for prof architectural 
>people, but their usage could be much greater than that - if only the 
>price was a few times less!
>

What about the 50mm f/1.0L?  Gotta have one!

Mike

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phg+@CS.CMU.EDU (Paul Gleichauf)
Subject: Re: WD-40 Remover?
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:16:07 GMT

Paul (zrepachol@cc.curtin) may have delivered the soundest advice of all
about removing WD40 or similar lubricants from lens elements.  I once
successfully cleaned a leaf shutter's blades with a freon cleaner (before
this was judged ecologically unsound) and it was effective.  The problem
with all the other suggestions I have seen is none of this works unless
the lens is disassembled, and then one must also attempt to clean the lens
element surfaces.

Even if we assume that the glued elements are just going to be left with
the optically interesting lubrication as a coating, there remains the
exposed surface cleaning problem.  Many lens designs now use organic 
compound coatings on more than just the exterior elements.  These coatings
are notoriously fragile compounds, even molds can attack them. You cannot
assume that any cleaner, or even fumes from the cleaner, will leave
them intact.  The acetone, benzenes, ethers are all going to be trouble.
It may be true that the coatings manufacturer knows ways of cleaning the 
surface of the oils in WD40 without destroying the coating, but I would
not count on it being possible. One must also consider that a large part
of the improvements in contemporary optical designs is attributed to the
use of these coatings. 

It is my opinion that cleaning a lens that has been permeated by WD40 is
not worth the optical damage, even if the shutter is repairable.  I will
be curious to hear whether this process works eventually, especially if the
optical performance is compared before and after.

							Paul
							
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mlindholm@cc.helsinki.fi
Subject: Good camera shops in Cologne?
Organization: University of Helsinki
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 13:49:26 GMT

I'm going to visit Cologne this spring.
Does anyone know any good places to buy
cameras and lenses (Nikon or Pentax)?
Also second hand.

Thanks, 
Mikko Lindholm
mlindholm@cc.helsinki.fi
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dpj@hubcap.clemson.edu (D. Pokrass Jacobs)
Subject: For Sale: Nikon stuff & Vivitar zoom
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 02:58:03 GMT


FOR SALE:
   1. Nikon FG, black body.
   2. Nikon SB-18 Speedlight flash attachment with TTL.
   3. Vivitar 70-210 mm f4.5 zoom lens 

COMMENTS:
   First two items are about 8 years old.
   Last item is about 5 years old.

CONDITION/PRICE
   Item 1 -- Might have slight leak, otherwise good.  $60
   Item 2 -- Excellent, $15
   Item 3 -- Excellent, $75
   For all three items: $140

I'll split the cost of shipping.

Dave Jacobs
dpj@hubcap.clemson.edu
-- 
David P. Jacobs
Department of CS, Clemson University, Clemson SC  29634-1906 
(803) 656-5872
e-mail:	dpj@hubcap.clemson.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: Canon 10s Vs Nikon N90, Which one?
Date: 23 Dec 92 23:47:13 GMT

In <1992Dec23.151933.17024@philabs.philips.com> txh@philabs.philips.com (Teun Hendriks) writes:

>It is fine to be a keen Canon supporter, but please do check the facts
>on the competition *thoroughly* before posting.

My sincerest apologies.  I recall reading this in one of the British
photo magazines.  I have now picked up an F-90 brochure and will study
it thoroughly.

>The AF-D lenses do NOT have motors, they have *encoders*, i.e. sensors
>which report back distance information. Also, currently there are only
>3 AF-D lenses, the 28-70mm, the 35-70mm f2.8 and the 80-200mm. Of
>course, the AF-I's also have the encoder built in. 

Though my original assumption about lens-integral motors was incorrect,
the local dealer does say that the AF-D lenses are more expensive than
the original AF.  So it's still true that N8008s owners pay for a
feature they cannot use, whereas EF lens integral motors are usable by
all EOS bodies.

>I must say, I'm really impressed by the flash system of the combo
>N90-SB25. 5 segment flash meter, pre-flash exposure metering, while the
>mirror just has moved up, and incorporation in of distance info to
>arrive at an optimum exposure.

There was a thread not too long ago about how one Nikon shooter found
that matrix metering didn't give exposures significantly different from
centre-weighted.  I don't have a body that has both metering systems
for comparison purposes, but it would seem to make sense.  Most multi-
segment metering systems *must* emphasize the centre segments because
the AF sensor is there.  This is probably true for OTF metering too.
When cameras can determine where the subject of interest actually is,
they will all be limited in this way.  (The A2E certainly is a step
towards this.)

>If only there was a camera with the N90-SB25 flash system and the EOS-A2E
>autofocus system....

Some of the other SB-25 features are very nice.  I'll pick up on that
in the next message.

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: RFI:F3 Lenses for underphotography
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 15:37:06 GMT

 I would appreciate recomendations on lens for Nikon F3. I will be shooting
underwater photography with an Ikilite housing. I plan to be mainly in
fresh water. Visibility from 10-60 ft (depending on the Texas lake/river).
I esitimate that most subjects will be with in 20' and as close as 6". What
sort of lense(s) would be most appropriate for this application? I also
like to dive deep and like guidance on lighting and flash units. Thanxs

kris

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markr@berlioz.nsc.com (Mark Roberts)
Subject: Lens Element Showing Separation
Keywords: Lens 
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation, Santa Clara
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 07:23:20 GMT

    I have an "oldish" View Camera Lens and Shutter that has some
    discolouration visible in the forward element, I believe that this is
    evidence of separation between the glass elements.  The problem appears
    around one edge of the lense, quite visibly, but does not show on the
    photographs (at least in normal use).

    I have been told in the past that this is not serious and infact common
    in old lenses.

    Is it serious?  What affect will it have (if any) on my photographs?
    Is it repairable?  How are glass elements bonded together?  

    I would appreciate any feedback, thanks in advance...
Newsgroups: rec.photo