From: jjk@astro.umd.edu (Jim Klavetter)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Climbing Rack?
Keywords: Climbing Rack
Date: 29 Aug 92 17:07:23 GMT
Organization: U. of Maryland @ College Park, Astronomy

>ufessex@mcl.ucsb.edu (Aristophanes) writes:
>>
>>
>>. I would like to get some input from the more experienced
>>climbers on what I should have in my rack for rock climbing as well as an
>>alpine rack (whatevr that may be)

This is a good question (at least I think so since I asked the same
thing about a month ago before I went on a backcountry climb in WY.
Thanks to everyone who responded.).  The answers I received to my
query varied widely.  Without quoting anyone, here are some of the
responses:

1.  Take only big stuff since you will be climbing in situations that
require big stuff (bigger blocks, easier climbing, ingeneral).

2.  Take only small stuff since it is lighter and you can always fit
it inside cracks in cracks.

3.  Take only stoppers/rocks because they are more versatile and
lighter.

4.  Take only tricams because they are more versatile and
lighter.

5.  Take only friends/camalots since they are more versatile and
lighter (you need fewer of them).

6.  Take as small a rack as possible since you will be walking in for
a day or three and you don't want to carry much.

7.  Take a large rack because you never know what you might need and
your life might depend on it.  (What's a little weight in
comparison?).

So you see, opinions vary (to say the least).  Actually, I was pleased
to see that there were such differing opinions.  Climbing is still a
very personal thing:  there is no "right" way to do things (as long as
you don't trash the rock or surroundings, I think).  I guess I
appreciate the anarchy as long as we are all considerate.

To actually help answer your questions let me mention that on two
climbs on Pingora (WR, WY)--the south buttress (3 pitches, 5.6) and E
face (10 pitches, 5.6/5.7), I used my wired rocks/stoppers exactly
ZERO times.  Now I KNOW they are useful things, but I was ALWAYS
getting better/easier placements with my tricams (or camalots).  Not
once in the backcountry did I use my wired rocks.  Would I take them
again?

Well let me tell you what my rack was:  #1-8 wired rock, #.5-3,4,5
tricams, and #1-3 camalots.  I had about 20-25 biners, 3 double
runners, 8 runners, and 6 half runners/quickdraws.  Harness and double
ropes completed the climbing equipment.  (4 of the biners were locking
and some of the runners was tubular, unsewn).  If I were to go out
again, about the only thing I would change is take only the smaller
rocks since anywhere I could get a tricam in I was more pleased with
it than a wired rock.  I'd have some overlap, but not as much.  Maybe
a few less biners but not too many less.  Runners are light so I'd
keep all of them even though I could probably do with less.  I can't
imagine climbing with a single rope in the backcountry (especially),
but I saw people doing it.

Bottom line:  try things out and don't let any of the "experts" (or
even "more experienced") tell you what is "right" (although asking for
opinions MIGHT possibly be beneficial).

Have fun and be safe.

jjk@astro.umd.edu also for Athabasca and Reudi
Jim Klavetter
Astronomy
UMD
College Park, MD  20742
Newsgroups: rec.climbing