HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tom.neumann@canrem.com (tom neumann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: anyone have specs on
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:19:09 GMT
Reply-To: "tom neumann" <tom.neumann@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:

MS>I also suspect that the 7700 redline is optimistic and the 0-60 time of 7.7 sec
MS>is also ( the German version is rated 139hp at 6100 rpm) and it only gives
MS>0-100 km/hr in 8.1 secs which about equivalent to 7.8 secs for 0-60 for a 13%
MS>stronger engine.  Also why would the redline be at 7700 when you peak out in
MS>power at 6100?

MS>Does anyone have the real data?

Car and Driver Magazine got 0-60 in 7.7 seconds in an article.

My understanding of the European (non-cat) 1.8l 16V was that it was
rated at 139 _DIN_ hp (abut 134 _SAE_ hp) and redlined just short of
8000 rpm, with hp peaking at around 7000 to 7200 rpm. It had somewhat
different cams and/or cam timing.

The North American (cat) version was rated at 129 _DIN_ hp or 123
_SAE_ hp. Because of the exhaust restriction of the cat the cams
and/or cam timing were set up to optimize mid range torque (compared
to euro-spec). I believe that the gearing of the Scirocco 16V in
North America was somewhat shorter than in Europe, and this, combined
with the better mid-range torque characteristics, gave it a slightly
better 0-60 time than Euro-spec cars, but the Euro-spec cars had
about a 10 mph better top end.

In my younger, more foolish days I would routinely check out the top
speed of my 16V's and found that all of them would do an actual
200KMpH (125 mph) once spedometer error was taken into consideration.
In one wild drive I drove one from Downtown Montreal (St. Catherine
St) to my driveway in Rexdale [western side of Toronto] in 3 hours, 59
minutes, including a 15 minute or so stop for gas and coffee [to
go!]. My average speed according to the trip computer was 159 KMpH
and most of the drive was spent with the tach at between 6250 and
6750 rpm. (Fuel mileage was amazing, at about 9.5l/100km, or about 30
miles per Imperial Gallon.)

The car was an utter JOY to drive at that speed, and really has to be
one of the nicest cars to spend high-speed time in. It's really a
shame that production was finally stopped (last month, by the way.)

Tom Neumann
---
 ~ DeLuxe} 1.25 #350 ~ Fun, eh???
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Gti Starting
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:21:43 GMT

mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows) writes:
> 	My friend has a GTi 8v and when he wants to start his car, as
> 	soon as he turns his ignition, the car starts, but on my
> 	Gti 16v, it takes the car a little while longer to start.

Same with ours (86 GTI, 90 GTI 16V) ... don't know if this is significant,
but the 16V always takes 3-4 turns to catch, but the 8V starts right up.

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos,nj.market.autos
From: hernan@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (hernan.martinez)
Subject: 84 Rabbit GTI 4 sale
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: nj
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 15:06:41 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: GTI sale

For sale 1984 Rabbit GTI (~100,000 mi.).  Car runs well, interior looks
new.

	- 5 speed manual transmission.
	- Recently changed timing belt, wheel bearings, cv joint.
	- Color Black with blue interior.
	- Good tires.
	- recently passed inspection.
	- Asking $ 995.

If interested contact H. Martinez:
	Weekdays:		 (908)615-2756
	Weeknights, weekends:    (908)821-5768

email: hrm\@homxb.ho.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lkvarda@sgi.com (Lisa Kvarda)
Subject: Re: corrado auto seat belts (yecch)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 04:45:04 GMT

dfeldman@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (David Feldman) writes:
>
>Does anyone know if the 93 Corrado will do away with those automatic
>seatbelts in favor of manual belts & airbag?

Awww... but then you can't have fun with your front seat passenger.
I always get my sister on this one....

When you parallel park, ask your passenger, "Am I close enough?"
Chances are they'll go to open the door, and put their head on the
wrong side of the seat belt, and end up making noises as soon as
the seatbelt starts moving.  (*:


Lisa

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: javad@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Agha Javad)
Subject: Re: ECU problems?
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 00:45:36 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard 

In article <1dc0ktINNjmu@hal.com> kerila@hal.com writes:
>Hello all!
>
>This is a truely great use of email!  I wish I had it a long time ago!
>
[GLI horror story deleted]

>
>Any comments or should I just buy a BMW and be done with Volksjunk?
>
>Larry Kerila
>

I know exactly what you mean.  I have a 90 Wolfsburg GLI which I absolutley
adore.  I have 46k on it (I drive a lot), and I'm on my 3rd distributor
and my 4th EGR valve.  I had an idling problem several months ago (it would
stall), and they replaced the ECU and it went away.  So I was happy.  Also,
they changed my distributor the first time since the previous one was an old
design into which oil would leak.  Well, I had just got it back from 45k mile
service and a few days later, it started stalling again.  So I called up the
dealer and they said bring it in, and I said I just had it in last week! (I
live and work far away from the dealership)  So I bit the bullet and took it 
in anyway, and they changed the distributor AGAIN, as well as my knock sensor,
and my air intake elbow.  The knock sensor again was an old design which would
retard timing sometimes needlessly (a possible cause of the problem), so they
put in a newer and better one. The air intake elbow was not sealing properly,
so there was a discrepancy between the actual airflow pressure and that sensed
by the ECU, as well as a drop in system vacuum.  The dealer cost of these parts
was >$300. Fortunately, it was all under my 50k warranty.  Unfoutunately, my
50k warranty will run out in only 4k miles!  Each time something like this 
happens, I keep saying that it is just an isolated problem, no big deal.  But
it is becoming a pattern which would be quite costly in the absence of a 
warranty, and I am losing confidence in my car very fast, even though I love
driving it!  I think VW needs to get its act together, because the consumer
expects a little better when they pay over $15k for one of their top of the line
cars.  They leave a lot to be desired when it comes to quality.  I could start
talking about my dashboard rattles, but I'm sure you all know it already,
so I'll spare you.  Good luck, and hope you don't run into these petty 
problems.  (I still wouldn't buy a Toyota or Honda, talk about a guy whose
asking for trouble!!)


Javad

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lcarr@gmuvax2.gmu.edu
Subject: Purchasing used VW
Organization: George Mason University, Fairfax, Virginia, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 21:59:08 GMT

Hi.

I have already posted this to rec.autos so those of you who read
both groups please excuse the redundance(sp).. 8)

It was mentioned to me that I may want to post my question here so 
I will give it a try.  ( I didn't know this newsgroup existed.)

I am interested in buying a used VW, preferably Golf or Jetta, between
the years of 82-86.  Any help/advice would be useful.   Such as things
to look out for, common problems, some models better than others, etc..
Anything you can tell me I will welcome.  8)  

I have already received one horror story on how bad VWs can but I can't, 
and don't want to believe they're that bad.  

Thanx in advance....

-lisa

*I prefer email to lcarr@gmuvax.gmu.edu because I normally don't 
 read this newsgroup and although I plan to start it will take me
 a little while to catch up and I don't want to miss anything.. 8) 8)

*sig in the works......



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (MICHAEL G. BECK)
Subject: Re: Smogging a Bug
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
Date: 11 Nov 1992 22:47 MST  

In article <92316.152740CMS@psuvm.psu.edu>, <CMS@psuvm.psu.edu> writes...
{Title says it all.   Anybody have any information of
{smogging a Bug?    Say a 1966.

I don't think it could be done.  But I don't even think that it needs to be 
done.  Where are you, California?  I think that pre-'68's don't have to bother 
about smog tests....  I may be wrong, but I don't think so....



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Michael Beck                    \        Sex is a three-letter word that 
 Michael.Beck@M.CC.UTAH.EDU        \    needs some old fashioned four letter
 MGB5528@CC.UTAH.EDU                 \  words to fully express its meaning.
 University of Utah                    \
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dans@danix.UUCP (Dan Simoes)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Another test - sorry!
Date: 13 Nov 92 09:55:20 GMT
Organization: Danix Consulting
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Still looking for that elusive 93 Jetta GLX :-)

| Dan |

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
Dan Simoes            email: dans@danix.uucp or          
Danix Consulting       dans%danix.uucp@uunet.uu.net       
Yorktown Hgts, NY     voice: (914) 747-1994 ext.415      
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: calypso@stein.u.washington.edu (Kent Shih)
Subject: Euro Lights
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 03:40:00 GMT

     Where can I get a pair of euro style lights for my 86 Scirocco?


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: garrett@Ingres.COM (WE'RE ONLY HERE BECAUSE WE'RE NOT ALL HERE)
Subject: Re: Need advice for dealing with shop
Summary: Experience  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Distribution: usa
Date: 14 Nov 92 03:17:52 GMT

In article <74713@hydra.gatech.EDU>, scott@prism.gatech.EDU (Scott Holt)                         writes...
> 
>About 3 weeks ago I took my 74 Bug into a local VW shop. A very obvious 
>knock had developed in the wheels...the kind of thing you hear every
>couple of wheel revolutions. I had a friend help me locate the source 
>of the noise (left rear wheel) and indicated that on the repair order.
>I also indicated that I thought the noise might be a bad wheel bearing.
>The brakes were out of adjustment as well.

>I have never had to confront a shop on something like this before...also,
>I don't have alot of time to get into a big arguement with them. They are
>too far away for me to conveniently go argue face to face, so I had considered
>writing the shop manager and including the above story, a picture of the
>broken bearing, the receipts and a demand for a refund.  I am sure the response
>will be "we looked at the bearing and it seemed fine. It must have broke
>later". Any advice on other routes to follow?
> 
Chalk it up to experience and don't go back there. From my experience,
about a third of the mechanics out there don't know what they are doing,
and another third do, but want to get as much money out of you as they 
can. The remaining third are usually too busy to see you. My advice is
to learn how to work on your car as best as you can (and get a good
service manual).
> 
>-Scott 
>This is my signature. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
>Scott Holt                 		Internet: scott@prism.gatech.edu
>Georgia Tech 				UUCP: ..!gatech!prism!scott
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Wiper problems on 86 Golf GTi.
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1992 20:11:00 GMT

kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
> I am wondering if it is possible to replace one of the spindles on the
> windshield wiper mechanism of an 86 Golf.  Only one wiper is screwed up
> and the spindle needs to be replaced. I would rather not have to replace
> the entire unit but I guess it can be done.

Having done this on our '86 GTI a couple of years ago (both shafts were
stripped) ... You need to remove the wiper arm assembly, which is not a
fun operation, as it's pretty crowded under there.  Once you've got it
out, you can replace just one or both of the shafts.  However, I recall
that the shafts are force-pressed in, and what I did was take the removed
assembly to the dealer, have them replace the shafts, and then re-installl
it myself.  It took them only about 15 minutes to replace both shafts --
the remove-and-replace process is much more time-consuming.

[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: scott@prism.gatech.EDU (Scott Holt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Need advice for dealing with shop
Date: 13 Nov 92 15:59:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology


About 3 weeks ago I took my 74 Bug into a local VW shop. A very obvious 
knock had developed in the wheels...the kind of thing you hear every
couple of wheel revolutions. I had a friend help me locate the source 
of the noise (left rear wheel) and indicated that on the repair order.
I also indicated that I thought the noise might be a bad wheel bearing.
The brakes were out of adjustment as well.

I got the car back along with a bill for brake adjustment and "rear axle
service". Unfortunately I didn't bother to ask what "rear axle service"
was. I talked to the mechanic and he indicated that the noise was caused
by breaks being badly out of adjustment. Sure enough, when I drove the
car, the noise was gone.

Two weeks later, the noise returned. This time, because I did not have
time to take it back to the original shop, I took it to a discount 
brake/muffler shop close to campus. They admited that they weren't too
familiar with Bugs (having only looked at one other recently), but that
they would be happy to take a look at it. Well, they found the real cause
of the problem - the inner race on one of the left rear wheel bearings
was broken in half, and it appeared to have been in that state for a while.
The replaced the bearing and adjusted the rear breaks (which were again,
badly out of adjustment). I now drive without any signs of the noise.

I am begining to think that all the original shop did was tighten something
that made the noise go away temporarily and never even looked at the bearings.
This suprises me since they are thought of in the area as a good shop and
have done good work for me in the past. However, I find it difficult to 
believe that they missed this. They are experienced VW mechanics and I
even indicated a possible cause for the problem on the service order.

I have never had to confront a shop on something like this before...also,
I don't have alot of time to get into a big arguement with them. They are
too far away for me to conveniently go argue face to face, so I had considered
writing the shop manager and including the above story, a picture of the
broken bearing, the receipts and a demand for a refund.  I am sure the response
will be "we looked at the bearing and it seemed fine. It must have broke
later". Any advice on other routes to follow?


-Scott
-- 
This is my signature. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
Scott Holt                 		Internet: scott@prism.gatech.edu
Georgia Tech 				UUCP: ..!gatech!prism!scott
Office of Information Technology, Technical Services
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold confusion
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 08:50:00 GMT

In article <1992Nov4.193016.10683@wuecl.wustl.edu>, christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes...
>Hi everyone!
>	I am confused about the exhaust manifold upgrade on '84 GTI/GLI engines
>(code JH). The catalog I got from Techtonics said that the single outlet exhaust
>manifold on these engines is the worst produced by VW and a switch to the US or
>EURO GTI manifold is highly recomended. Recently I got the catalog from Autotech
>and they show the single outlet manifold (designated the later european GTI manifold)
>as the best for these engines! (the reason being that it offers the same advandages
>as the dual manifold but is more durable since clamps are used to hold the downpipe)
> 
>	Now you know why I am confused! What is the deal here? Help!

The single outlet euro-manifold is used on A2 GTi and GLI models... it is
not designed for your A1 GTi.  The best exhaust setup to use for your car
is indeed the euro dual-outlet manifold (or US version -- they flow the 
same, but the Euro model is slightly more durable).  This should be used in
conjunction with either the long or shorty downpipes that Techtonics sells;
the catalytic converter can be retained with the short model, keeping the
system legal and still providing very significant power gains.

The US dual-outlet manifold can be found on any early car up to '81, and can
usually be had at your local salvage yard for less than $50.  The Euro
manifold, purchased new, costs around $150.  There is no practical difference,
but make sure you order the correct downpipe for your manifold.

I mentioned this in another post regarding upgrading an '84 Scirocco with
the same engine (JH 1.8 big-valve), you might want to read it also.

If you do upgrade, you will LOVE the difference it makes in your car.


--
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: amiller@almaden.ibm.com (Alex Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: gti headlight
Date: 10 Nov 1992 13:12:35 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:

>         Since we are on the subject of headlights, what kinds of upgrades are
> available for stock headlights? I saw H1 and H4 lights being sold with pretty

Cibie and Hella have been selling stock headlight replacements
for year, but I believe only the "Cibie Bobie" has been certified
as DOT highway legal for cars.

To install Cibie Z-beams on my '83 GTI I had to
(1) loosen the front turn signal/marker lights, so I could . . .
(2) remove the front grill
(3) loosen the metal clip that holds the lamps in place (4 screws)
    ***try not to disturb the 2 aiming screws
(4) unplug the old headlight
(5) plug in the new headlight
(6) fit the metal clip around the new lights
(7) screw metal clip in place
(8) undo steps (2) and (1)

(***warning*** this may not be legal, consult your motor vehicle
code) AIMING the headlights is something that repair shops can
do, or you can do it yourself.  All you need is a phillips-head
screwdriver, a flat empty parking lot or similar area, and a
reflective target about one foot tall (a safety triangle does
nicely.)  Place the target at least 30ft in front of the car and
aim the low beams so that the top of the beam just hits the top
of the target.  A subtlety is to aim the left (drivers) headlight
straight ahead and slightly low, and aim the right headlight
slightly to the right and up (so that it will illuminate the
curb.)  If you have dual headlights (one right, one left) then
you're done.  If you have quad headlights then aim the highbeams
so that the bottom part of beam hits the bottom of the target.
For the real story, buy a copy of your states Motor Vehicle Code
- the California book has lots of rules about automobile
lighting.

Things to consider:

WIRING - I've run 50/100w H4 lamps using stock wiring, but I
noticed a brighter beam (less voltage drop) when I rewired the
headlight circuit to use relays.  Use the existing headlight
circuits to power relays (Hella has nice 30a and 40a relays) and
run a FUSED 10g or heavier wire from the battery to each relay
(one relay for low-beam, one for high-beam.)  Run 10g or heavier
wire from the relay to the headlights and complete the ground
circuit directly to the battery.

HEADLIGHT COOLING - running large bulbs your headlights will get
HOT.  Bulbs over 100w should not be on unless you are driving at
speed and they have air cooling them.  Headlight covers are a
no-no.

LEGALITY - Cibie Bobies are the only H4 headlight I know of that
are DOT highway legal, and then only when a standard 55/60w bulb
is used.  Ten years ago, running high powered bulbs was very
noticeable, now with many cars on the road with oddly designed
reflector designs and mis-aimed beams, I think that high powered
H4/H3/H1 lamps go relatively unnoticed UNLESS YOU ARE STUPID AND
SHINE YOUR BRIGHTS INTO OTHER DRIVERS EYES.

Alex
amiller@almaden.ibm.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dan@grok85.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Daniel Adams)
Reply-To: dan@Grok85.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Organization: NCR Corporation
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 92 17:59:01 GMT
Subject: A3 Golf GTI 16V 

I recently received the latest issue of "Auto, Motor und Sport"
and "Gute Fahrt" (a VW/Audi mag), that both had articles on the
newly introduced 16V GTI to the German market.  It has a 2.0L
150 HP engine, and comes with 205/50 VR 15 tires.  Both articles
state that this version of Golf is well placed between the 
115 HP 2.0L GTI and the 178 HP 2.8L VR6, both in price and
performance.  The "Gute Fahrt" article also adds that the 16V
engine is a good performance replacement for the G60 Golf.

Some specs:
	0-100km/h(62.5mph): 8.9 
	0-160km/h(100mph): 22.8
	top speed: 216 km/h (135mph).
	Base Price 35,900 DM

The base price is 4000DM cheaper than a VR6 and 5000DM more than the
115HP GTI.

Regards,

Daniel

------

Daniel O. Adams                      3325 Platt Springs Rd, W. Cola, SC 29170
NCR Corporation                      phone: (803) 791-6315, I-632-6315
Uniprocessor Server Business Unit    email: dan@grok85.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM 
Support & Deployment                 fax:   (803) 791-7317, I-632-7317