HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rajeev@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (rajeev.dolas)
Subject: Re: Shooting, Poisoning, Cruelty
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 18:28:47 GMT

In article <1992Aug7.164259.23379@Arco.COM> dbsjwb@Edm.arco.com writes:
>
>The cruelty and violence suggested and/or advocated in
>of a number of postings recently re: home intruders, bothersome
>pets ... is simply astounding. The anger and hatred in our society
>is out of control.
>
>I, for one, am outta here.
>
>'click'
>
>-- 
>bielak@Arco.COM             ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
>james.bielak@Edm.Arco.COM   2300 W. Plano Parkway PRC-D1139A
>(214) 754-6184              Plano, TX 75075
>

	Yeah! Mind telling that to the jerk who is in YOUR house, trying
	to steal all your wordly possessions, and who may not think twice
	before killing YOU or your family if you tried to stop him?

	Come on folks, it's absolutely absurd that you feel sorry for the
	thieves.  Even if they are caught and sentenced all they will do in
	the cell is watch that goddamn TV, while you are still bustin your 
	ass working trying to earn some honest money? And they will probably 
	revert to their old ways after being out of the jail.

	Also how do you know that person in your house is a thief in the first 
	place? What if the person is a freaked up mass murderer? Will you 
	preach non-violence to him before he kills you?

Raj.
From: ardai@zax.eda.teradyne.com (Michael Ardai)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Telephone Outlets
Date: 23 Aug 92 01:30:31 GMT
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA

In article <5942@grus.cs.nps.navy.mil> erickson@cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) writes:
-Are all cordless phones easy to monitor?  I thought they had built in
-scrambling circuitry, which is set according to a small bank of
-dip switches.

While there are a few cordless phones that actually *scramble* the voice (one
in the new Radio Shack catalog comes to mind), most of the 'digital security'
and similar dip-switch settable features are only to prevent other cordless 
phones from making calls on your line.  This does nothing to prevent people
from listening in with scanners, baby monitors or other cordless phone 
handsets.  The same applies to cellular phones, although the cellular lobby
has made it illegal to listen to cellular calls...  Even with the new stupid
proposal before the FCC to prevent the sale of scanners that can 'easily' be
modified to pick up cellular, there are still many older scanners, TVs that
tune above UHF channel 80, and electronic hobbyists who can modify even a 
regular FM (music) radio to pick up cellular.  True scrambling is the only
way to get a little privacy when you are talking on a radio.
/mike

-- 
\|/  Michael L. Ardai  N1IST   Teradyne EDA 
--- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
/|\  ardai@maven.dnet.teradyne.com
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:04:03 GMT
Subject: Re: New California Earthquake Insurance
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

I called my insurance company (I have earthquake insurance with State Farm,
but homeowner's from 20th Century; the CA billing came with the homeowner's
renewal.)  In spite of the fearsome looking mailer, I had remembered that
there is no teeth to the rule.  I asked how to get out of the state
deal; they replied "just don't pay it".

I'll leave the discussion os to whether this is a boondoggle or not for
others, but in my case, it's a lot of money for not much coverage.
For *my* circumstances, I'm going to pass.  As usual, your milage may
vary.

Pete Brooks

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Making low offers
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 23:20:58 GMT
Keywords: house buying

In article <heflin.714148311@pink1> heflin@rtsg.mot.com (Suzanne Stratton Heflin) writes:

>I can't believe you sold a house for 20% less than what you listed for.

You obviously are unfamiliar with the Real Estate situation in New
Jersey. He's lucky to have sold it at all!.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dwalker@bnr.ca (David Walker)
Subject: Formula for calculating Canadian mortgage payments
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house 
Reply-To: dwalker@bnr.ca (David Walker)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 20:23:26 GMT

It seems that mortgage payments in Canada are calculated a little 
differently in Canada than they are south of the border.  If I use
the formula in the FAQ archive, I get values that are a little higher
than the bank expects.  I'm guessing that this is because the compounding 
is different.

If anyone can explain this, or (preferably) give me the correct formula,
I'd be one grateful first-time buyer.  


======================================================================
David Walker                                | phone:    (613) 763-5304
Bell-Northern Research, Ltd.                | fax:      (613) 763-8312
P.O. Box 3511, Station C                    | internet: dwalker@bnr.ca
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada K1Y 4H7             | 
======================================================================
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: carter@spot.Colorado.EDU (Mike Carter)
Subject: DYI Ceramic Tile -- Questions
Keywords: dyi tile questions
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:47:47 GMT


Excuse the repost.  I think I screwed up the distribution last time.

Help!  We're in the midst of remodeling our kitchen and we are having trouble
deciding on whether or not to do the flooring ourselves.  For a variety of
reasons we decided to go with 8" ceramic tile.  The tile will cover the
kitchen, laundry room and front hall (all connected) and is a total of about
350 square feet. We've removed the previous three layers of various cheap tile
/thin underlayments and done all the neccessary repair/replacement work to the
subfloor (5/8" plywood) and underlayment (5/8" particle board).  There was
some water damage that resulted in having to replace some areas of one or both.

Now the big questions.  First, are we roped into having to use Durock or some 
equivalent on top of the underlayment?  I would really like to minimize the 
thickness of anything that I have to put under the tile so that the floor 
height between the tile and our hardwood is close.  With all of the old layers
of crap that had been laid before, the rise into the kitchen was pretty
miserable on bare toes.  Is there something thinner that would be adequate?
Second, I've tiled bathroom floors before (4" tile, biggest about 100 square
feet) and didn't think it was too bad.  Is 8" better, worse or no different?
Third, if I do decide to do this myself, can anyone recommend any good
sources for information.  I have a couple of general books and a bunch of
pamphlets from tile stores.

Any suggestions/comments/etc welcome!


-- 
				- Mike
				  carter@spot.Colorado.EDU
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: windows
Organization: OSF Research Institute
Date: 19 Aug 92 12:18:58

In article <Bt78rv.2H0@well.sf.ca.us> lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
asks (about windows):

   What should I get??! Wood, Aluminum, Vinyl???!!!
   P.S. Don't think I can afford wood.

Simple double-hung wood windows are actually cheaper than vinyl or
aluminum.  The main problem is that they aren't as energy-efficient.
They also can slide less well (especially in humid weather).  But I
think they look a lot better than the others.

	-s
From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 6" walls and 6" insulation
Date: 20 Aug 92 20:16:26 GMT
Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
Organization: G.M. Research Labs

In article 714329960@pink1, heflin@rtsg.mot.com (Suzanne Stratton Heflin) writes:
|>rmartin@crchh109.bnr.ca (Richard Martin) writes:
|>
|>
|>>We are planning to have a house built next spring.  The house will be a 
|>>2-story colonial type.  Is it worth the extra money to have 6" exterior
|>>walls with 6" insulation istead of the normal 4"?  Will the extra thickness
|>>provide much energy savings over the 4"?  If not, will the structure be stronger
|>>with the 6" than the 4", and is it worth it?
|>
|>I don't know much about the energy savings, but I don't think it makes the
|>structure any stronger.  When 2 x 4s are used, they're typically spaced
|>16" on center; with 2 x 6s, it's 24" o.c.  Thus, I don't think it's any
|>stronger, and the lumber itself should cost close to the same. ....

Another option is a 6" wall, but made with 2x4 studs staggered, one
against the outside surface, then next against the inside, etc. Of
course the top & bottom plates and the end studs are 2x6's. You will
also need 2x6 framing around door and window openings.

This has the advantage eliminating mush of the solid wood pathways
between the exterior sheathing and the interior drywall. This reduces
both thermal and acoustic conduction.

---
	Robert Haar               InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com 
	Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research Laboratories
DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wae@aero.org (William A. Emanuelsen)
Subject: Re: Pigeon Repellent  ???
Organization: Pigeon Busters, Inc.
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 14:19:51 GMT

>In article <1992Aug19.124856.92531@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>, maw2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu 
>(MICHELE A. WHITE) writes:
>>
>>I am looking for a way to get rid of pigeons who have taken a liking to our
>>brick window sills.  The sills are getting pretty dirty and they aren't afraid
>>of my cats.  Any suggestions?  

A plastic owl in plain sight also seems to do the trick if there are
not hundreds of pigeons around.  If there are a lot of pigeons,
though, they seem to get wise to it pretty fast.  Of course, you have
to not mind having a plastic owl outside that screams "I have a pigeon
problem!" to all your neighbors.



-- 
William A. Emanuelsen    "You'll never get famous by repeating what
wae@aerospace.aero.org      other people say." -- Bartlett's Mom.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: harrism@aquila.rtp.dg.com (Mike Harris)
Subject: Re: Help! Washing Machine Spews out Flakes
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 92 15:05:47 GMT
Reply-To: harrism@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corp., Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Aug17.153404.9771@software.org>, wartik@software.org (Steve Wartik) writes:
|> 
|> This weekend, my 5-year-old Sears washing machine started emitting
|> little green-gray flakes of something or other.  I can't quite figure out
|> what they are.  They don't look like fabric, and anyway I haven't
|> seen any of the flakes in the wash tub, so I'd guess that there's
|> something in the drainage system that might be disintegrating.

	The green could indicate copper deposits. Is you plumbing copper?
	Is your water acidic? Did you change something - soap, etc - that
	could have caused previous deposits to loosen? Did you kid bring
	something home in his pocket? Did you call the city to see if 
	they've been digging nearby?

	There are many possibilities; check some of these potentials and
	report back.

|> I called Sears, but was informed that they aren't permitted to let me
|> talk to a repair person.  However, I could call a 900 number... before
|> I waste megabucks, I thought I'd appeal to the net and see if anyone
|> has a clue about what this might be.

	Just say NO to Sears!

	Call a general appliance repair shop. They'll usually talk with
	you some in the interest of giving an estimate over the phone.

	regards, Mike
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sad@sei.cmu.edu (Susan Dart)
Subject: Advice needed on owning a cedar, Lindal home
Organization: Software Engineering Institute
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 18:15:08 GMT


I am thinking of purchasing a completely cedar house. The designer
or homebuilder is known as Lindal in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania. I have
only owned brick or stone houses so I have no idea what specific
issues I should consider in owning a wooden house. Concerns such as:
	
	- termite and carpenter ant infestation
	- oiling the interior wood regularly
	- restaining the exterior wood every 5 years, etc.

I would really appreciate some advice on what special concerns
I should think about when owning and maintaining a contemporary
wooden house with a shake roof.

Many Thanks,
Susan Dart
sad@sei.cmu.edu
412-268-6310

	
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Hardwood on a chipboard subfloor?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 04:34:58 GMT

In article <1992Aug16.154428.13255@wes.on.ca> tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
>We would like to replace our worn carpeting with hardwood (probably oak)
>flooring.  Laying strip flooring and finishing it (or buying pre-finished
>flooring) seems straight-forward enough, even if it will take a substantial
>amount of work.
>
>Alas, our house uses the modern (!) construction technique of "whatever's
>the cheapest", and thus we have a chipboard (maybe Aspenite?) subfloor
>instead of the traditional plywood.  I'm concerned about being able to
>nail the flooring to the chipboard -- will nails hold?  And if not, what
>options do I have?

If it's really chipboard (instead of the hard particle board), nails
probably will not hold. Off the top of my head, I'd say you have a couple
of options:

  a. Screw down some sheets of 3/8" plywood to nail the hardwood into.
     Then nail down 3/8" hardwood. If making things add up to 3/4" isn't
     important, use thicker flooring if you like.

  b. Nail down your normal 3/4" hardwood but use a good construction
     adhesive (like "Liquid Nails") to make sure it stays down.

Personally, I'd go for option "a", but either should work.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Better" is the enemy of "Good enough".
                    |                     Russian proverb.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: nuge@newport.med.ge.com (James A. Nugent)
Subject: Re: Home owners Insurance -- Farmers versus Allstate
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Milwaukee, WI
	<1992Aug17.171309.26407@gvl.unisys.com>
	<84QT03rZ610a00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com>
Date: 19 Aug 92 16:59:19 GMT

In article <84QT03rZ610a00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com> lmtra@uts.amdahl.com
(Leon Traister) writes:

> A few weeks ago, I found out about a friend whose home and contents
> were destroyed in the Oakland fire of last year.  He was insured with
> State Farm and found to his horror that they would not pay the full
> replacement cost and it turns out that quite a few people were in the
> same boat.

> When I called my State Farm agent, the story I got was that
> "replacement insurance does NOT include code upgrades", i.e. if your
> house is appraised by them at say $200K, that is what it would cost do
> an exact replacement, and since an older house (say older than 15
> years) would not pass a code evaluation, you are expected to make up
> the difference for the upgrade.  The agent did, however, offer [tadah!]
> a CODE UPGRADE INSURANCE RIDER for a mere additional 10% of the
> premium.  This rider will pay for code upgrade not exceeding 50% of
> the insured replacement appraisal.

        Are there code changes that radically change the cost of
construction? I assume we're not talking about GFCI's in the bathrooms
and garage, but heavy duty building code changes, right? How much
extra can they cost?


--
Jim Nugent

nuge@med.ge.com

nugentj@med.ge.com
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Inexpensive CAD packages for house, yard, etc.
Date: 18 Aug 92 16:16:36 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Technical Systems Operations

In article <1992Aug17.220532.23781@sj.ate.slb.com> bob@sj.ate.slb.com (Bob Firestine) writes:
>Are there any inexpensive CAD packages for DOS that one could use to 
>design one's landscaping or rooms in a house?  Thanks in advance.

There are probably others, but here's my list:

#	NAME					MY EXPERIENCE
$ 13	Expert Home Design by SoftSync		Limited functionality
$ 13	Expert Landscape by SoftSync
$ 25	FloorPlan by ComputerEasy
$ 30	ProShape for Windows (shareware)	Decent draw program
$ 37	Home: Bathroom by Generic
$ 37	Home: Home by Generic
$ 37	Home: Kitchen by Generic
$ 37	Home: Landscapes by Generic
$ 39	KeyCAD by Softkey			Used to be shareware
$ 43	DYOH: Architecture by Abracadata	Good value!  Object-oriented
$ 45	DreamHouse Pro by ComputerEasy
$ 45	Home: Deck by Autodesk
$ 45	Home: Home by Autodesk
$ 45	Home: Landscape by Autodesk
$ 49	DYOH: Interiors by Abracadata
$ 49	DYOH: Landscape by Abracadata
$ 50	FloorPlan Plus by ComputerEasy		Decent but somewhat buggy
$ 75	TurboCAD by IMSI			Harder to learn than I tolerate
$ 99	Windows Draw by MicroGrafx
$119	EasyCAD by Evolution			Harder to learn than I tolerate
$146	AutoSketch by Autodesk
$175	DesignCAD 2D by ASBC
$230	AutoSketch for Windows by Autodesk
$259	DrafixCAD by Foresight
$285	Generic CADD by Generic
$349	MacDraft for Windows by IDD		Excellent!  Object-oriented
%1
%2  Some of these, such as MacDraft, are good enough to produce drawings
%3  suitable for submission to city building plan inspectors *IF* you can find
%4  a plotter.  I couldn't; it cost me $500 to have a draftsman copy my work
%5  onto 2'x3' vellum.  Note that low end products are just suitable for
%6  reasonably precise drawings of your ideas to give to a real drafter.
%7  If any software can save in DXF format, most blueprinters have AutoCAD
%8  and can load and print.  Sometimes they can accept HPGL print files.
%9  Otherwise, tape 8.5x11's together and they can be blueprinted in two steps.

I believe Abracadata also has a DYOH: Kitchen.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  On Attitude & the Immune System:  A sound heart is the life of the flesh:
    but envy the rottenness of the bones.  Prov 14:30
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: asalerno@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.j.salerno..jr)
Subject: Any experience with Underground Downspout Kits?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 12:28:37 GMT
Summary: rain downspout kits beaver industries
Keywords: rain sownspouts beaver industries


I saw an ad in a magazine (The Family Handyman) for an underground
downspout kit from Beaver Industries (of St. Paul MN).

To quote the add (without permission):
"Water free falls into debris filter and flows underground through P.V.C. pipe.
As water fills up in the bubbler pot the lid rises up to let water 
evenly over flow onto your lawn.  Drainage slots in the bubbler pot lets
standing water filter down into the ground.  The solid drain cover will
then drop down and seal out grass clippings and dirt."

It seems to me, I could get the water further away from my house (and my
basement) with this, without having the downspout running across my yard.

The kit appears simple enough, a little digging and getting the proper
slope and the idea seems workable.

Has anyone had any experience with these downspout kits by Beaver Industries,
or can you recommend a better brand or idea?

Thanks,
Tony
-- 
=-=-= These opinions are nothing but my own, and I may not even want them =-=-=
Tony Salerno                                      "A penny for your thoughts?"
a.j.salerno@att.COM                               "A dollar for your death."
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- - The Odd Couple =-=
From: bills@sequent.com (Bill Sears)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Which garage door opener to use?
Date: 21 Aug 92 15:54:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1992Aug21.155445.29586
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.

In article <jmcging.714400780@ssa.gov> jmcging@oss724.ssa.gov writes:
>So who makes Sears door openers?  Genie, Chamberlin?  Someone else?  And
>are they any good?

Don't know if you saw my article on my Sears garage door opener, but it
said that I have sporadic problems with the remote control units not
working.  The problem appears to be in the transmitter/receiver circuit
and not with the door opener itself (the hardwired button works just fine).

I have gotten several replies (8 or so) from people who say they have
experienced the same behavior (as well as replies from others on things
to try).  I guess that this is not an uncommon occurrence, so it might
be prudent for you to avoid Sears garage door openers.

BTW, someone said that they were made by Chamberlain, although I don't
have any way to confirm that.

  bills
--------
Bill Sears            Sequent Computer Systems            bills@sequent.com

While a transcendant vocabulary is laudable, one must be eternally careful
to ensure that the calculated objective of the communication does not become
ensconsed in obscurity.  Stated simply, it is invariably preferable to 
eschew obfuscation.                                           - Unknown

Verbosity leads to unclear, inarticulate, ... things.         - VP Dan Quayle

If God had meant for us to vote, He would have given us candidates.  - Anon
From: swaliff@afterlife.ncsc.mil (Steve Aliff)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Water Heater: Electrical High Limit Trips? Cause?
Summary: The electrical high (temperature) limit on my water heater trips.
Keywords: water heater, electrical, high limit trips
Date: 13 Aug 92 11:23:50 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The Great Beyond


I have a 52 gallon water heater purchased from Sears about 5 years
ago. As part of the upper thermostat assembly, there is what their
instructions refer to as a "high limit" switch. Although their
instructions never say it, I presume that this device detects the
over-temperature condition and cuts the circuit. (presumably as an
additional safety feature to the temperature/pressure relief valve)
In any event, last Winter it started tripping on a fairly regular
basis (once every 6 weeks or so). The not-so-handy manual says to
call Sears' service if the circuit trips more than once.  Instead I
decided to just buy a new switch-assembly and replace it.  This was
just before Christmas, so I decided to wait until the next time it
tripped. That was two weeks ago! I replaced the switch with the new
one from Christmas. I also drained the heater. All was right with
the world until this morning when (tah dah!) no hot water. The
moronic switch had tripped again.

Has anyone experienced this before? What did you do? Does anyone
have any suggestions? Is my water heater possessed? What's the
fastest sea-dwelling animal?

regards,
-- 
Steve Aliff (swaliff@afterlife.ncsc.mil [144.51.1.1])
From: gah2468@bcsaic.boeing.com (Geoffrey Hazel)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to Hang a Carpet Face Down on the ceiling?
Date: 19 Aug 92 21:09:21 GMT
Distribution: na,local
Organization: Boeing Computer Services AI Center, Seattle


RE: hanging carpet on ceiling
Curtain rods sound good.  Also, velcro might work well.
-- 
Geoff Hazel                  | Haven't you got some real work to get 
gah2468@bcsaic.boeing.com    | done now?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: midi@thumper.bellcore.com (Ron Rossnick)
Subject: Home Security/AT&T System 8000
Organization: Morristown Research and Engineering
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 21:34:59 GMT

Any recommendations for home security system? I had a few estimates - one was the
AT&T system 8000 wireless home alarm. The are a few companies, X-10 & Defiant,
that allow the homeowner to install a wireless system for 1/3 of the cost of
AT&T and other pro-intalled systems. Do they perform equally well if installed 
correctly?

Any comments are welcome.

-- 
Ron Rossnick