HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Re: Leica projectors
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 08:03:33 GMT
Distribution: rec.photo
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <OHTONEN.92Dec31130743@tnds05.tele.nokia.fi>, ohtonen@tele.nokia.fi (Pasi Ohtonen) writes:

> I sold my previous projector yesterday and now I'm 
> looking for a replacement. I have a brochure of Leica's projectors
> on my desk and I started to wonder, which of the models P 155/P 255
> to choose (if Leica at all). 
> Requirements are:
>  silent (both cooling fan and slide change noise), mechanically robust
>  (it's going to be used only at home, though), good optical perfomance,
>  capability for CS-magazine format (I have few thousands of slides in 
>  CS-frames) and autofocus.
> Where I whant to here opinions/judging rules? Money is limiting factor!
>  150 W or 250 W lamp?

Definitely 250 W, unless your room is very dark and you doesn't project
large.

>  Hektor 85mm 2.8 or Colorplan 90mm 2.8 lens? 

You'll find that your images looks sharper, more contrasty and crisper
with the Colorplan lens. Also consider the new Super Colorplan lens.
It is one of the absolutely best projecting lenses I've seen, well
comparable to classics like the Zeiss P-Sonnar 90mm/2.5 T*. It isn't
cheap, though.

>  Is Leica silent?

Well, it isn't one of the noisier ones.

>  Does earlier Leica models support CS-format (if looking for used one).

I don't think so.

>  Other manufacturers? 

Zett (formerly Zeiss, until Leica bought them). Better and more even
light, cooler and somewhat less noise. Go with the Royal AF Selectiv
series. I don't think that they accept CS magazines, but they'll accept
CS mounts in standard or LKM magazines.

- Robert

-- 
--------------------- This mass of gibberish came from ---------------------
         ____
        |    |               Robert Claeson
        |    |               Data General AB
 _______|____|_              Box 28
|    |    _    |_____        S-164 93 KISTA
|_/\ |   / \   |     |       Sweden
| \/ |   \_/   |   . |
|    |    |    |_____|       robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
|____|_________|-
From: ark@alice.att.com (Andrew Koenig)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photographing people; need permission?
Date: 5 Jan 93 03:58:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: alice.24552
Reply-To: ark@alice.UUCP ()
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill NJ

In article <1993Jan4.134230.9824@hemlock.cray.com> dtj@caffeine.cray.com (Dean Johnson) writes:

> How do stamp collector catalogs get away with it?

By making sure the copies they print are easily distinguished from
the original, either by making them monochrome, substantially larger
or smaller than the original, or putting a slash through them.
-- 
				--Andrew Koenig
				  ark@europa.att.com
From: mic@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Marc Clarke)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 02:15:54 GMT
Subject: Which Are Sharpest After-Market 35mm Lenses?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Ft. Collins, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo

What are the sharpest after-market lenses available to fit an old
Minolta X-700?  I know the old MD Rokkors are not very good lenses.
My friendly local camera store droid would have me believe that the
Tamron SP lenses are the best of the after-market lenses and are the
equal of anything available in a camera manufacturer's lense line (not
just Minolta's).  Is this correct?  Can anyone point me to a source of
comparative lense tests?
From: donnah@Autodesk.COM (Donna Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon Camera for Sale
Keywords: Nikon Vivitar
Date: 7 Jan 93 18:15:36 GMT
Organization: Autodesk Inc., Sausalito CA, USA

For Sale: Nikon N2000 (manual, automatic, program modes,motor drive)
          with Nikkor f1.8 50mm lens $150

	 Vivitar Electronic Flash (w/3-angle positioning) $15

	Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f4.5 zoom $50

	camera bag, 2 Tri-Star filters thrown in for good measure.

respond to:

 donnah@Autodesk.com
      or
fernwood!autodesk!donnah
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Leica and Minolta Items for Sale
Reply-To: andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:40:37 GMT

                       Leica items for sale:
    
    1 Visoflex w/straight down viewing for M series Leicas         $ 50
    
    3 Leitz filters 53 mm thread, 1 Polarizer                      $ 10
                                  1 GGR                            $  5
                                  1 O                              $  5
                                                                      
    Motor-Winder R 4 for Leica R 4 camera - mint, unused           $ 50
    with warranty cards and instructions
                                
                        Minolta items for sale:
    
    Minolta Maxxum Program Back 90 - mint                          $ 50
    with warranty cards and instructions
       
    1   Rokunar Tele-Converter for Minolta Maxxum Cameras
        2x 4 element, multi coated, new condition                  $ 25
    
    1   Rokunar Tele-Converter for Minolta Maxxum Cameras
        1.4x multi-element, multi coated, new condition            $ 20


        *  *  * * *  *
         \/\/\/\/\/\/   Andrew Davidhazy, RIT, High Speed Photography Lab.
          |        |    IN%"andpph@ritvax.isc.rit.edu"    fax 716-475-5804 
_________/          \_____________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: kelvin@netwise.com (Kelvin Fedrick)
Subject: Re: Questions about everything
Organization: Netwise Inc.  Boulder, CO
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:04:44 GMT

I can field one of these.

>7)  Are UV filters for black & white only?  I read where this guy was fairly
>adamant that UV filters are only for B&W, and you should use a skylight filter
>for color.

 A UV filter makes a quite noticable difference in color film. The image
 to me anyway, appears to be sharper and shaded objects tend to be less
 blue in color and more close to the color you see (or think you see).

>8)  What is the air speed velocity of an unlaiden swallow?

 African or European?

-Kelvin
From: photo@cs.ubc.ca (Photo-swap central)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Photo-Swap Theme portfolio Ballot
Date: 10 Jan 1993 19:14:14 -0800
Organization: Computer Science, University of B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
NNTP-Posting-Host: flip.cs.ubc.ca
Summary: It's time to vote for the first resurrected theme portfolio
Keywords: ballot, vote, photo-swap, Theme Portfolio


				Ballot
			
			Theme Portfolio #93-1

		     Return by January 20th, 1993

	Nominations for Theme Portfolio #93-1 are closed and it is time 
	to VOTE.  (instructions below)

	Nominations for Theme Portfolio #93-1 are:


  1 ( )	A person with an animal
  2 ( )	A tree
  3 ( )	Abstract Landscape
  4 ( )	Amusement parks
  5 ( )	Candid
  6 ( )	Classical Figure
  7 ( )	Mushrooms.....
  8 ( )	The urban winter.
  9 ( )	abstractions	- patterns/super closeups
 10 ( )	food 		- the International Food Fair in Hong Kong
 11 ( )	hardware 	- mechanical things/computers/toys
 12 ( )	houseplants
 13 ( )	human figure studies - not necessarily nudes
 14 ( )	mother and child
 15 ( )	parades		- Lenten Carnaval, Christmas, Easter...
 16 ( )	person against a cityscape
 17 ( )	portraits of cameras
 18 ( )	'Staged'        - as in not-necessarily-studio contrived still life
 19 ( )	unconscious pets
 20 ( )	weather scenes
 21 ( )	winter scenes 	- lots of snow where you are?
 
	To vote, simply send email to the Theme Portfolio administrator;
	address at the end of this posting (or 'r'eply to this posting.
	Everyone is welcome to vote.  Voting for more than one Theme is
	OK, but please, no more than one vote per Theme per person.

	 [this may seem like a strange rule, but it works well.  It allows
	  the voter to say "this or this or this are all acceptible to me."
	  If you think about it, you'll realize that it is different from
	  stuffing the ballot box.  That's what would occur if a person
	  were allowed to vote more than once for a particular theme.
		- Brian ]

(Note: we now have both a persn to digitize photos, and a person willing
to act as an archive site for photos.  If you have any thoughts on this
idea, feel free post or mail me about it.)
-- 
Stephen Samuel          (604)822-9248           photo@cs.ubc.ca
                                        or,  alberta!ubc-cs!photo
Photo swap co-ordinator (with much support from Brian M. Godfrey)
The first prerequisite to enjoyment is playing the game.
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:53:51 CST
From: Theodore Stresen-Reuter <U42075@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mac, of course (Was Re: IBM vs. Mac for stock business)
Distribution: na
 <1993Jan08.181221.191081@zeus.calpoly.edu>
 <93Jan09.163301.18195@acs.ucalgary.ca>
 <1993Jan11.180935.111891@zeus.calpoly.edu>

Hmmmm...


Nice to see so many so interested and so committed to one system or the
other but I am afraid that this string, as has been pointed out by
others, has lead away from the original question: Which system would be
best for running a photography business with an initial budget of $3000?
Please limit discussion to this issue.  As one previous poster pointed
out, the Mac/IBM controversy is touchy to say the least.  My concern is
that posters are beginning to focus more on loyalties and less on the
original question.

Thank you all for your input and understanding, it has been of great
help!  The original poster,

     Theodore Stresen-Reuter
     u42075@uicvm.cc.uic.edu
     Interactive design enthusiast and Spanish teacher
From: fr0c+@andrew.cmu.edu (Frank A. Reynolds)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Polaroid Spectra / Minolta Instant Pro
Date: 6 Jan 93 04:52:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: andrew.MfGj96W00iUzQ1TkUo
Organization: Hunt Institute for Botanical Documentatn, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I need a instant film (or should we say "quick film") camera to take
photographs of watercolors and colored engravings.  This is for authors
to show their art directors or as guides to make mockups.

The Polaroid Spectra looks like the best choice but I can not find any
literature on what the difference is between the Spectra, Spectra 2, or
Spectra SE.  Does anyone know?

I understand that Polaroid is coming out with a camera called the
Spectra Pro, have you seen anything on this?


Also Minolta makes a Spectra clone called the Instant Pro, it has a
glass lens and is about $50 more then a Polaroid Spectra.  Has anyone
see photos made with the Minolta Instant Pro, are the results worth the
extra cost?


May the Film Be With You,
Frank Reynolds








and "May the Light Be There Too!!!"
From: wagner@mala.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photographing the TV screen
Date: 8 Jan 93 13:53:43 -0700
Organization: Malaspina College

In article <1993Jan7.152929.43056@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>, sh09@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (STEVEN HIGGINS) writes:
> In article <lkn5fbINN1po@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu>, farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) wr
> ites:
>>Is it possible to get a descent picture of a tv screen with a focal
>>plane shutter (Cannon FTb), or should I just give it up and use my
>>Argus C-3 (a leaf shutter).
> 
>     Yup, use a shutter speed of 1/30 or slower and it will look ok.
>>
>>Does using Freeze Frame from a videotape make any difference?
> 
>     Freeze Frame can allow you to take pictures without blurring.  Just shoot
>     at 1/30 or slower, and use a tripod.
>     >
>>What about holding the camera vertically?
>>
>     Nope.
> 
>>Thanks
>>Susan
> -- 
> 
> ~Steve
> sh09@lehigh.edu
When shooting from a freeze on a vcr, remember you only get half the detail.

I found it to be better to use the slow shutter speeds and shoot while the tape
was moving.  It,s kind of like flash photography, the camera will freeze the
action.  If the action is too fast however you may have to freeze the tape.

Have got some strange things when shooting from newer computer graphics
screens.  I suspect that it may be necessary to go even slower than 1/15 th to
get some of these new displays. Particularly I got highlighted bands when I
photographed some graphics on our super VGA monitor.

73, Tom

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hoang@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Ngoc Hoang)
Subject: Help
Organization: Motorola Inc.  Austin, Tx.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 18:46:11 GMT

I don't know if this is the right place to post this but asking around, I
was referred to this newsgroup. My sister just started to be interested
in photography and she was able to get  a good used old Minolta X-570.
She is looking for a cheap converter and zoom lens, fish eyes(?). Anyone
knows where I can find those in good condition, reasonably cheap or do
have those things that they do not want anymore due to upgrade or ....
please e-mail me at hoang@oakhill.sps.mot.com. I really appreciate it.
From: richard.vernick@satalink.com (Richard Vernick)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F3 quirk?
Date: 6 Jan 93 00:09:00 GMT
Reply-To: richard.vernick@satalink.com (Richard Vernick)
Organization: Datamax/Satalink Connection * Ivyland, PA (215) 443-9434

TO: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.com

DB>Friend asked to post a question here.  He has a Nikon F3 whose
DB>meter & shutter speed sometimes seem to "stick" in the 1/80 sec...

Dave,
Call me stupid...I thought I had the same problem. Does this only happen
on the start of a roll? Remember, the shutter will fire on 1/80th until
the counter reads "1". Hope this helps.

Rich

---
 . KingQWK 1.05 . Philosophic enjoyment = mutual  misunderstanding.
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: f length equivalent to human eye???
Date: 11 Jan 93 16:27:55 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

robinson@odie.ee.wits.ac.za (Michael Robinson) wrote:
> I have been thinking about the issue of what focal length is equivalent to 
> that of the human eye.  Most books say 50mm is the closest to either angle 
> of view or perspective.  I accepted this as given until I came across an 
> article in a local magazine saying 105mm is the closest to the human eye.  
> This I did not believe but went out with my 35-80 zoom lens and, looking at 
> the moon, adjusted the zoom so that the moon through the lens was the same 
> size as the moon as seen by my left eye.  This gave a focal length of about 
> 70mm.  Since eyepiece has a magnification of 0.8x I adjusted for this giving 
> 56mm.  Is this accurate?  Is there a better way to do things?

The measure I've always found most natural is angle of view, which is
around 150 degrees horizontally for binocular vision.  That suggests
something like 15mm when using normal 35mm format.  Anything longer than
that is cropping for pictorial effect.  I haven't used anything shorter
than 19mm: for me that's probably the optimum anyway, as it corresponds to
97 degrees, which is about what I've been seeing through my glasses for the
last 35 years.

If you restricted yourself to foveal vision (the only bit of your visual
field that really sees things sharply) you'd end up with a very long focal
length (about 400mm?).  But your brain usually disguises this, so there's
not much psychological rationale for choosing it.

The figures in between are derived by unrealistic reasoning about people
viewing pictures from fixed distances as if they were looking through a
Victorian stereoscope: in fact every art gallery visitor I've ever
observed, myself included, yo-yos back and forth in front of a picture to
take in both the long view and close-up detail.  20x24s get looked at just
as close up as postcards.  So much for these perspective arguments for the
"standard" lens (which is nonetheless useful, but not for the reasons these
amateur aestheticians put forward).

In the end, the "natural" length is going to be scene-dependent.  The field
of view people pay attention to depends on what objects are in it: this
ranges from extreme wide-angle when struggling through a crowd to extreme
telephoto when watching a plane disappear over the horizon.  Cameras not
compensating for this is the main reason so many snapshots reduce the
interesting features to dots: if Canon can find a way to make auto-zoom
follow the brain the way the EOS-5 autofocus follows the eye, they stand
to make quite a bit of money...

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
From: SteveWall@aol.com (Steve Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: "Pro" film vs. Kodacolor - que pasa?
Date: 7 Jan 93 22:28:38 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Anhedonics Anonymous

> 
> The photos you see in magazines were probably taken with Kodachrome 25 or
> 64, Velvia, or Fujichrome 50 or 100 slide film. These films have much less
> tonal range than Kodacolor. The photographer probably used a split ND
> filter or flash fill.
> -- 
And the technicians performing the color separation for the ad did their
equivalent to dodging and burning for bring the contrast into paper range.

Steve Wall
From: IO80861@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Damon Kiesow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: **Another NEW EOS??**
Date: 7 Jan 93 00:16:02 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System

Has anyone heard any rumors about another new EOS model in the
works? Called the EOS-1N possibly. I find it hard to believe
considering they just release the A2 and A2E, but who knows.
Any ideas?

Damon Kiesow / IO80861@Maine / 71131,1635 / 207-581-3059
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: panlilio@acs.ucalgary.ca (Victor P. Panlilio)
Subject: Re: Fashion Photography -- Going Pro
Summary: Film Preferences for Fashion Photography
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 02:04:45 GMT
Expires: Sun, 31 Jan 1993 05:00:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: The University of Calgary, Alberta
Keywords: film
Followup-To: rec.photo

In article <353@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
>tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:
>: 
>: >	Fujichrome 100D and some Ektachrome 64x and maybe some plain
>: >	Ektachrome 64 and Kodachrome 64.  Then tell me what you think!
>: 
>:    Kodachrome, yuk.
>
>I concur, but a number of fashion photographers in the Miami Beach area
>prefer Kodachrome.  Maybe it's just to please the magazine editors.

PKR's so-so, but ever tried PKM (Kodachrome 25 Professional)? A
VERY different film, in my experience. Gorgeous *ultrasturated*
primary color WITHOUT the beefy skin tones or blocking-up of RVP.

Just expose it dead-on at ISO 25 (check your incident meter!).
If flesh tones are unimportant, try ISO 32 for poster vividness.
And what other slide film has such good shadow detail, huh?

EPX gives nice warm skin tones, though less so than RFP. For
color accuracy, I tend to prefer EPN, which is warmer and less
contrasty than EPP. I also like Agfa 50RS for certain things.

But, my favorite all-around film (location AND studio) is PKM.

If I lived in Toronto, I'd get same-day service for my PKM. As it
is, I have it couriered for free from here and get it in 3 days.

E-6 pro-level (dip-dunk) processing is much cheaper, though...
But also less predictable and consistent. I may be shooting a
clothing catalog within the month, and my film will be PKM.

Exposed for easy digital scanning and good color seps...

Victor 8^)
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: WANTED: Large Amounts of Flashbulbs..
Date: 6 Jan 93 22:14:58 GMT
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <mktjadx.726356726@gsusgi1.gsu.edu> mktjadx@gsusgi2.gsu.edu (Jeff A. Dilcher) writes:
>I am interested in obtaining a large amount of flashbulbs.  Please email
>me with what you have, and what you would like to receive per case.

On my recent photo shopping spree in Portland, OR (I found an A11 flash for
my Oly XA, YAY!) I ran into a rather sad little store that had cases of
them stacked around the place.  A lot of other old junk, too.
You might try giving him a buzz:

	Hollywood camera or something, (503) 284-2060



-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			One Design to rule them all; one Design to find them.
			One Design to bring them all and in the darkness bind
			them.  In the land of Mediocrity where the PC's lie.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sbertsch@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steve Bertsch)
Subject: Fuji Neopan dyes
Keywords: not chromogenic
Organization: University Systems
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 23:00:50 GMT



Here's a quote from a Fuji Neopan 1600 product blurb:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
      New Polymer Matrix and Image Sharpening Layer (ISL) Technology

Fuji previously introduced their 'High-Efficiency Light Particles' with
NEOPAN 400 Professional film for more efficient use of light to improve
film performance.

Now, Fuji proudly introduces advanced-type 'High-Efficiency Light
Particles' thanks to the new Polymer Matrix Technology of our NEOPAN 1600
Professional film. Light response is maximized for increased film speed
without graininess or increase in processing times.

An Image Sharpening Layer fixes image sharpening dyes in place and at high
densities, thereby eliminating grey scale blurring and facilitating prompt
dye flow during processing, resulting in sharply defined pictures every
time.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

So, does anyone know about this layer with dye in it? How does it work?
-- 
bertsch.3@osu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: USM vs. regular lens
Date: 6 Jan 93 22:06:51 GMT

In <a7U202C430hE01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com> bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) writes:

>Fabrice Jaubert writes:

>> I'm thinking of buying a 75-300 zoom for my EOS. I can get the regular
>> (Micro-Motor?) version, or the USM version for $50 to $60 more.
>> 
>> Other than the focusing motor, are these lens different? Does the USM come
>> with better optics? Otherwise, I think I'd rather save $60 and live with a
>> noisier motor - or am I missing something?

>The focusing speed of the USM lenses is phenomenal.  I have the Canon
>100-300 f5.6 EFL.  As  an 'L' lens I think that its optics are marvelous. 
>Certainly my sharpest lens.

I believe (but am by no means certain) that the 75-300 USM is
mechanically similar to the 75-300 AFD.  Thus, it is not internal
focusing, and will probably not be as fast as the 100-300 USM.

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|"The Nikon lens owners are more gratingly smug, while the     |
| - | --|__ | Canon lens owners are more verbally abusive." - Tony Arnerich|
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: mpc@biosys.apldbio.COM (Morgan Conrad)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon Handbook (was Re: NIKON F2 Lens selection help)
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:49:35 GMT
Reply-To: mpc@apldbio.com (Morgan Conrad)
Organization: Applied Biosystems Inc, Foster City, CA

When I tried to buy "The Nikon System Handbook" around Christmas,
I was told that the first edition is out of print, but they
are working on a second edition.  Has anybody seen it?


Morgan Conrad              Who grants absolution
Applied Biosystems           for sins that never were committed?
mpc@apldbio.com
415-570-6667