HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rvuori@klaava.Helsinki.FI (Rasmus Vuori)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (FRESH) Tubifex in the tank
Date: 13 Apr 92 22:00:53 GMT
Organization: University of Helsinki

About half a year ago I also had a problem with worms in the gravel in
my 570 l tank, in which four oscars and two sailfin plecos live. I tried
to vacuum out the worms, eventhough they were not polluting the water.
It didn't help.

I also have six koi (about 10 - 20 centimeter) and as I live in a cold
country I have to take them indoors in the winter. As they really love
to dig the gravel I thought they might help with the worms, and put them
with my oscars, and voila', no more worms. I have also heard that by
adding salt in the water, the amount of worms decrease, but haven't
tried this one out myself.


-- 
    //////////////////////////////////
  Internet: Rasmus.Vuori@Helsinki.FI
//////////////////////////////////
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (f) Clown Loach question
From: cctr128@csc.canterbury.ac.nz (Kelwyn Osborn, CSC Uni of Canterbury)
Date: 13 Apr 92 11:16:46 +1200
Organization: University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand

In article <1992Apr10.133626.5317@lmpsbbs.mot.com>, lipinski@macn15.rtsg.mot.com writes:
> I have two clown loaches in a sixty gallon tank along with 4 Tiger barbs, 3
> Zebra Danios and a Red Tail Shark.  The Clown Loaches ususally seem to be
> "lying" on their sides whenever I first walk in the room and I think that they
> have died.  But, as I walk near the tank, they get up and start swimming
> normally.  They look okay and eat fine and swim around scavenging and playing
> when I feed them.  I've only had them about two weeks. Has anyone else seen
> this sort of behavior from these?  Could they be sick?  I only have a nitrite
> tester and it shows the nitrite levels are good.  I'm sort of a beginner in
> that I have had fish for quite a while, but never really knew how to take care
> of the tank outside of water changes and filter cleanings.(I am learning quite
> a bit reading this group though.)  Any suggestions or help would be
> appreciated.
> 
> -Todd

Don't fret.  This seems to something that clown loaches delight in doing.  My
clown has taken to "hanging" upside down next to my pleco under a piece of
driftwood ( bit of mouthfull really ).  So nope they ain't sick it just one of
the many peculiar things they do.

-Kelwyn
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Sunday, 12 Apr 1992 14:06:51 EDT
From: <34ML2OB@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: How to "vacuum" gravel?

In answer to the question about how much gravel that you should have
covering your UGF plate, My supplier suggests 15 lbs of gravel for
a 10 gal size base.  It gets you a good couple inches of gravel on
the plate. I've seen it done with many tanks (and I do it myself)
that the gravel is sloped from the back of the tank to the front.
I don't know if its done for reasons other than aestetics but it
makes it a bit easier to get the vaccuum a bit closer to the plate
to suck the goop up through the plate.  The gravel vac  is a hose
on a wide tube. What you do with it is to create a suction that
allows you to suck the goop out of the gravel when you force the
tube down into the gravel. To prevent too much water from going
out you will need to cover the end of the hose with your thumb
intermitantly. This won't cause you to loose the suction.

Someone else may have a better description for you, I just know
how to do it, I'm just not good at describing it.

Susan Peterson, 34ml2ob@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: How many aquarists in the U.S. or the world?
Keywords: aquarists, U.S. world
Date: 13 Apr 92 14:34:58 GMT
Distribution: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

In article <1992Apr13.140805.12912@cs.ucla.edu> jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg) writes:
>Estimated industry sales here make up $1.6 billion of the 
>$4 billion spent on the aquarium trade worldwide.  And the fastest-growing

   Then in the conclusion, he said 240 million was spent by the US
hobbists.  Can he even make up his mind?

>I am a little skeptical of the 200 to 300 fish average per hobbyist implied
>by the above numbers.  Could that be right?

   I noticed that too.  No one I know has more then 20 fishs.  So I
guess some wacko out there must have a few thousands to make up for
us lackers.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Cannister Filters : Fluval vs. Eheim?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 15:55:28 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.011447.13824@news.cso.uiuc.edu> erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu writes:
>Can anyone who has either one of these brands of cannister filters give a  
>recommendation about which one to buy? It seems like the Fluvals are the  
>better deal, being a little less expensive and already pre-packed.

Ahhh, the age old question of Fluval vs. Eheim....brings back memories!

Here's my two cents:  Fluval is a nice filter, easy to work with and
reliable (in my experience).  I have a 403 in my 55 gal plant tank and
have enjoyed it thoroughly.

However, I do think the eheims are a higher quality filter.  It's just 
a matter of how much bucks you have.

Both are quiet (I have my fluval about 2 feet from my bed and don't hear
it at night), although the eheims are virtually silent even right next to 
them.

I know fluval just changed colors (brown to grey, which I don't like!)
but I don't think they come prepacked.  Mine did not.  I put the ceramic
noodles (2 boxes) in the bottom compartment, along with some eheim
fine floss, the middle is stuffed with peat, and the top is the sponge.

Another thing to consider is the Magnums, since they ahve been redesigned
to no longer have the oiling problem.  I have one of those I use
just to mechanical strain my reef tank during water changes and I must
say I'm not overly fond of it, as its a pain to start and get the air
out of.  However every time I'm using it I'm setting it up from scratch...

Hope that helps a little!



-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 297-8474----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
2nd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:3858 sci.aquaria:811
From: seove@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (ERIC OVERTON)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Does ick medicines harm FW clams?
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:39:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: mars.13APR199214390274
Distribution: usa
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Does ick medicines and aq. salt harm FW clams?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Eric Overton
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: wonderlights again
Date: 17 Apr 92 02:19:32 GMT
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

In article <2846@dove.nist.gov> rosentha@bldrdoc.gov (Peter Rosenthal 303-497-5844) writes:
>3.  If you use expensive wide spectrum fluorescents such as
>vitalites or tritons then the perwatt cost of the wonderlight 

   Tritons are not wide spectrum, not even full spectrum.  Tritons,
as the name implies, has three spikes in the three primary colors,
and that's it.

-Anthony
From: al167@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard M. Segedi)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Cannister Filters : Fluval vs. Eheim?
Date: 15 Apr 92 20:48:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1992Apr15.204857.23136
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


My experience with Eheim cannister filters has not been good.
For one thing, they are designed with the pump on top of the
cannister, allowing air bubles to frequently get trapped in
the pump chamber, thus shutting off the watter flow.   Not good.
Secondly, the little pumps they come with are pretty wimpy.  The
least little bit of debris will stop the impeelor, again
wh shutting off the water flow.

I don't ko know about fluvials, but I suggest the pump you
buy should be designed to handle a little grit once in a while
and the cannister should be designed so that i the filter
chamber is on top of the pump.
--
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU ( Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: UV output of flour lights
Date: 10 Apr 92 17:24:22 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

I'm curious about the UV output of various lights, suchs as cool whites,
vitalites/tritons, actinic, etc.  I know the UV output is probably 
negligible, but I'm still curious, does anyone have some information on 
this?

Thank you
 
 Jon

-- 
Jon Edwards                                   gt6441c@prism.gatech.edu 
Georgia Institute of Technology    
  "we're just two lost souls swimmin' in a fishbowl, year after year"  
                                                       -Pink Floyd
From: glee@athena.mit.edu (Gilbert Huppert)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: aquarium cooling
Date: 16 Apr 92 14:02:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology

anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander) writes:
>
>2) Buy an old beat up dorm fridge, and take the guts out.
>

Sorry, but this won't work very well.  If you think about it, there
are two good reasons (especially if you are running a marine tank): 1)
heat transfer will be quite poor, 2) capacity is very low.  A dorm fridge
is not meant to constantly remove heat from a large aquarium (I am assuming
that you are not worried about a 10 gallon tank).  This type of device is
designed to remove small amounts of heat once in a while, and maintain
a constant temperature, not at all like your air conditioner.  If you do a
back of the envelope calculation, you will find that you *might* be able
to get a 3-4 degree temperature drop, under the best conditions (for a 
tank of 50-70 gallons).


>3) If your Aquarium is near the refrigerator, you could just run a hose
>   through the freezer or something.


If you do this, your food will probably spoil, and you run the risk of 
leaks of aquarium water into your food.  Probably not a good idea


>
>4)  Cheepest is simply a fan blowing on the surface.  You lose a lot of
>    water that way.  Also doesn't work well with CO2 fertilization.
>

This is also not useful if the humidity goes up, or if the temperature is
high.  This is probably the easiest method to cool a tank, but don't expect
to cool your tank to 74 degrees when it is 95 outside and there is more than
a little humidity.

Note, I didn't comment on number 1 since I don't know anything about the
capacity or efficiency of the device.



Gilbert Lee Huppert (glee@athena.mit.edu)
Materials Etching Technology Laboratory
--
Gilbert Lee Huppert (glee@athena.mit.edu)
Materials Etching Technology Laboratory
From: bhaskar@brtph139.bnr.ca (Krishna Kushwaha P205)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (FRESH) Tubifex in the tank
Date: 13 Apr 92 00:42:47 GMT
Organization: Bell Northern Research Inc.

In article <1992Apr12.110457.21609@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us> oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
> [tubifex in tank ...]
>So what about these worms?

I have had the same problem in an angelfish+cory tank.  Every time I
vacuumed the gravel, the angels would grab a few.  I always wondered
why the cories (Corydoras aeneus), which were "great gravel diggers"
never managed to eliminate the tubifex.  Given this sample point, I am
inclined to think that starving the tetras in the tank will not prove
successful.

Anyway, I ignored the worms.  There were no problems.  The worms
reached a stable population, and did not pollute the water.

Shaji Bhaskar
bhaskar@bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: Cure for fish-hungry powerhead?
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 23:08:12 GMT

>In article <1992Apr13.145539.6239@ERA.COM> feit@ERA.COM (Mark Feit) writes:
>>I'm using an AquaClear 405 powerhead to run the RUGF in my 30, and
>>have recently been losing my Hets in the intake vent.

>>Has anybody managed to find a way to keep the fish away without
>>blocking the intake?

>>: Mark A. Feit, Software Engineer : Internet: feit@era.com          :

Penguin is now selling a sponge attachment for their powerheads that
would do the job very nicely, but this probably doesn't help you.

-- 
Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
From: kiddyr@Apple.COM (Ray Kiddy)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: TFH Publications, comment?
Date: 6 Apr 92 22:01:40 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc., Cupertino, CA


 i was just curious about how people felt about this company. a friend of mine
had this to say about TFH, after he worked at an aquarium store: they're books 
are advwertised to tell you what you want to know, but never enough that you
will not have to ask your aquarium store dealer. ie: you will never hear about
the cheap way of doing something. 

, i do not think aquarium dealers are bad, i just have problems with the 
literary equivalent of crippleware. also, i am wondering if he might be wrong.

- ray

#include <std.disclaimers.many>
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Discus-ongoing
Date: 13 Apr 92 13:04:24 GMT
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

In article <1992Apr13.041843.30642@wpi.WPI.EDU> vortex@guardian (The Biologic Entity) writes:
>Cardinals will get along fine with discus.  They also can get along well with angelfish (who actually prefer slightly less acid and slightly harder water, but
>they are from the same region and will get along well enough).  As for your 

   Be careful if you have big discus or angels but small cradinals.  My
parents angels ate all their cardinals.

-Anthony
From: rhw@att.com (Robert Wentworth)
Subject: Re: Making a Whisper Power Filter Go Biological
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 06:17:59 GMT

I've always thought it was pretty dubious, but the instructions that come
with Whisper Bio-bags say that the plastic frame inside the bio bag serves
as a site for lots of bacteria, so that you can maintain biological activity
by re-using the plastic frame when you change bio-bags.  Bacteria from
the plastic frame (which allegedly has lots of surface area, though I don't
see much) supposedly will quickly colonize the new Bio-bag.  Does anyone
have any experience pro or con as to whether this actually works?
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Cheap Calcium?
Date: 7 Apr 92 20:11:10 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

In article <1992Apr6.221801.9557@cco.caltech.edu> laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence) writes:
>Fine, but the source of calcium shouldn't make any difference.  The
>reaction takes place in solution, so that the calcium is present as
>free calcium ions which have no memory as to what compound they
>were part of when they were added.

    Agreed.

>
>What is the calcium concentration in your water?  I think that the
>problem with adding CaCl2 comes from adding too much, and not using
>a calcium test to detect this.  There is little enough calcium in
>a saturated solution of Ca(OH)2 that it's hard to overdose, while a
>calcium chloride solution can be extremely concentrated.

    I use the Hack test kit.  When I first got the test kit, I have
240ppm.  Then I bought a bottle of brand-xyz CaCl2 and started adding
1 teaspoon everyday (the instruction said 1/4 teaspoon), then 2
teaspoon, then 3 teaspoon, then a few shot glass worth, then I gave up
and bought pure CaCl2 and mixed my own.  I dissolve 6 table spoon of
CaCl2 in 16oz of water and use a couple shot glass worth everyday.  I
have not been able to get pass 350ppm.  Best I can do is maintain it
at the low 300.  I just mixed up a new batch of CaCl2 last night using
9 table spoon of CaCl2 in 16oz of water, maybe I can nudge my Ca level
a little higher still.

>
>For comparison, in my 55gal tank, it seems to take about 150ml to
>raise the calcium concentration by 40ppm.
    150ml of what? At what concentration?

>I add 1/8 tsp of Marine Buffer per day, and at my old calcium
>concentration of 280ppm (as I found out when I bought the test), this
>would maintain a nearly steady 18 dKH.  When the calcium peaked at
>490ppm, the KH dropped over a few days to 14.  Now that the calcium
>has dropped nearly to the 420ppm I intend to maintain, the KH has
>risen to 15 KH and as of two days ago it was remaining steady.  I don't
>mind adding this much a day, but keep in mind that the calcium and
>carbonate demands in my aquarium are probably rather below average at
>this point.

    I have a derase clam that grew 1/4 of new shell in the pass 8
months.  The clam is 5" across, so 1/4 inch of shell is a lot of CaCO3,
maybe that's why I can't keep my Ca and KH up.

-Anthony

PS My turbo snails are growing a lot of shell too.  Some double in size
in the pass 8 months.
From: "chuck filson" <chuck.filson@canrem.com>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: clogging sponge filte
Date: 13 Apr 92 13:05:24 EST
Reply-To: "chuck filson" <chuck.filson@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems

In message <92Apr8.152521edt.309@smoke.cs.toronto.edu>
           enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) asked:

RF>The way I clean it is to take it out of the tank and repeatedly
RF>squeeze it in a bucket of tank water, then dump the thoroughly brown
RF>water and repeat 2 or 3 times.  This *is* how you clean them, right?

RF>Any net.wisdom out there for me?

  This cleaning method will only remove the dirt near the surface
of the foam. After doing this, you should roll the foam between your
hands (like rolling dough into a long strip) and rinse again. This
breaks up the dirt deeper in the foam and allows a more thorough
cleaning.
  The foam should last until it finally falls apart years from now.

Chuck
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: jj@alice.att.com (jj)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Making a Whisper Power Filter Go Biological
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:56:27 GMT
Reply-To: jj@alice.UUCP (jj)
Organization: NJ State Home for the Bewildered

In article <1992Apr13.160111.17306@kronos.com> richb@kronos.com (Rich Braun) writes:
>3jx@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Konrad) writes:
>>The only advantage that I can see to the Aqua-clear is that you can put
>>other things in the filter such as peat or softener resin bags. It's
>>harder to do such things with the Whispers.
>
>The two brands are as interchangeable as Pepsi and Coke, in my opinion.
>(OK, I *do* know the difference between the two soft drinks, but I'll
>drink either/or depending on my mood...)

The only differences I can see is that one requires you throw out the
completely insufficient filter media, with its ridiculously insufficient
carryover method, and the other allows you to use not one, but two sponges
with lots of internal surface area, so you can even replace your
filter media without causing any filtering hit.  Not only that,
you can get an enormous amount of both biofiltering AND mechanical
filtering out of the same box, without any grief, by using two
sponges and washing them in siphoned tank water once in a while.

Needless to say, I don't own any Whispers.
-- 
Vote for    *Copyright alice!jj 1992, all rights reserved, except transmission
President 1992 *by USENET and like free facilities granted. Said permission is
___________________*granted only for complete copies that include this notice.
Just Say !!!NO!!!       *Use on pay-for-read services specifically disallowed.
From: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu (John W. Bowden)
Subject: Re: Making a Whisper Power Filter Go Biological
Originator: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Reply-To: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 12:18:47 GMT

From article <1992Apr8.061759.3293@cbnewsi.cb.att.com>, by rhw@att.com (Robert Wentworth):
> I've always thought it was pretty dubious, but the instructions that come
> with Whisper Bio-bags say that the plastic frame inside the bio bag serves
> as a site for lots of bacteria, so that you can maintain biological activity
> by re-using the plastic frame when you change bio-bags.  Bacteria from
> the plastic frame (which allegedly has lots of surface area, though I don't
> see much) supposedly will quickly colonize the new Bio-bag.  Does anyone
> have any experience pro or con as to whether this actually works?
> 
There claims about the frame have proven to be false in
my experience.  If you change the bag you will still have 
a break in period on the filter.  This is not a big
problem if you limit feedings for a few days while the
bed recuperates.  I try yto avoid changing the bags as much
as possible.

John
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: [M] Cheap Calcium?
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 21:48:54 GMT

efang@pomona.claremont.edu writes:

[about CaCl2 solution]

>...You probably shouldn't even saturate it.

Unless you are comfortable with highly exothermic reactions, you
definitely shouldn't saturate it.  You can dissolve something like
134g of CaCl2 * 2(H2O) in 100g of freshwater (don't quote me on the
exact figure, though).  Being the curious type (and having access to
a lab), I made a 1:1 solution, and the reaction produced enough heat
that if I'd added it fast enough I think that I would have boiled the
water.  If you're adding anhydrous calcium chloride, then you should
get still more heat.  The safe thing to do is mix it with enough water
that the solution has enough heat capacity.

Another thing is that under no conditions should you dump the whole
lot of calcium chloride in at once.  Add it a bit at a time, and keep
putting your hand on the outside of the container to make sure that
you have the heat under control.

I suppose I should mention that I take no responsibility for anything
that happens if you try this.

-- 
Dustin

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
From: neuzerli@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Andy Neuzerling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: aquarium cooling
Date: 15 Apr 92 21:42:06 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Distribution: na

I am doing some research on cooling aquariums. I would like to know 
how all of you out there cool your aquariums when they get too hot.
Please post your response or email it me. Don't be afraid to copy a 
response previously used.
	Thankyou
		Andy Neuzerling