HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pkrause@triton.unm.edu (Paul Krause CIRT)
Subject: Re: seller financing: +/- ?
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 15:41:39 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Distribution: usa

In article <BvzJ22.8JB@access.digex.com> nbull@access.digex.com (Nicholas Bull) writes:
>Dear all,
>
>I have a question about seller financing.  The seller wants to
>provide financing so that he can count it as an installment sale and
>pay capital gains taxes in smaller chunks.  He wants to do 10-15
>years with a balloon payment at the end.  My primary concern is with
   Text Deleted
     The loan documents will normally say the payment will be $x.xx OR MORE
      per month.  If you get him to do a 15 year note you would not have
      to pay a lot more each month to fix it so there is no balloon.  He 
       will still get most of the benefits of installment reporting. 
>
>A secondary question has to do with the legal aspects--am I at more
>risk as the buyer making payments to an individual than to a standard
>mortgage holder?
    In New Mexico, you would make your payments to an escrow company and
     there would be no additional risk.  In fact, after seeing some of
     the horror stories about problems people have with mortgage servicing
     companies, you might be safer.  >
>What are your thoughts on seller financing vs. standard mortgage?
>
The seller is already telling you that he doesn't need the cash.  Lets
supose that after five years of making timely payments, you loose your 
job.  If you slip one house payment to the bank it will be reported to
the credit bureau and if you miss a 2nd payment they will start the 
forclosure process.  With a private seller you can talk to them about
the circumstances and there is a good chance they will be willing to 
work out terms.  I don't believe there are any circumstances where
the private seller could treat you more harshly then the bank routinely
will.

Paul
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Tree Climbing: SUMMARY
Date: 13 Oct 92 17:41:15 GMT
Reply-To: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

In article <1betv5INNs4c@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
>>Dear tree hugger, 
>
>Ouch!  I've certainly never been called THAT before!  :^)
>
>>I recall watching the lumberjacks topping trees using
>>your technique and I always wondered what would happen if the tree split,
>>rather than broke, while they were hugging (and belted to) the piece below
>>the cut. 
>
>I've never seen a tree split from a chainsaw cut.  The only split trees
>I've ever seen are due to lightning or windstorm/toronado, in which
>high winds take on some strange configurations.

  Well, I certainly was not intending to make any comments regarding this
  thread, but....

  In my younger days, I worked one summer with a pulpwood crew, cutting
  pine trees from some property my uncle bought.  Not once, not twice, but
  *several* times I saw a tree which had properly been notched on one side,
  and chainsaw cut on the other, kick the butt out viciously on the side
  away from the notch.  Don't know why some trees do this - I would assume
  that perhaps it has to do with some sort of internal strain.  But it
  certainly taught me to move quickly when a tree begins to give forth those
  sounds which indicate things are beginning to split internally, because it
  is not always possible for even the experts to say exactly what is going
  to happen to the butt.  (And some of the guys on that pulpwood crew did
  indeed qualify as experts, in every sense of the word).

John


--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, Florida
   "America was largely populated by early ethnic cleansing movements
            in Europe, with England leading the way."
From: miller@FS1.cam.nist.gov (Bruce R. Miller)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: This Old House
Date: 14 Oct 92 17:22:27 GMT
Organization: NIST - Computing and Applied Mathematics Laboratory


In article <1992Oct14.123500.6755@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>, Robert T. Weverka writes:
> I think they should add a little guest house in back.  They have
> a big lot.  The extra house could serve them as a guest room, and
> office space ( think of the reductions in interuptions if your
> office is detached from the main house.)  When their boy gets to
> his teens, he may enjoy the privacy of moving out.  When they
> kids flee the nest, they can get rental apartment income.

It may not be allowed;  I wanted to build a garage w/ in-law-apartment
on top.  I found out that, in  our county (Carroll, MD), there can be
only one connected `living space' per `lot'.
Since my plans called for a completely separate structure, it wasn't
allowed.  Presumably, if I were willing to `connect' it, it would be
allowed.

I suspect the show's visibility would make it hard to play games like
"well it's not living space, we're just storing the bed there..."

>   Should we alert Norm and Steve?
> -Ted

It's probably already finished!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea)
Subject: Buying a home: Use "hardship" to get full 401K Plan $$$ or no?
Organization: Network Systems Corporation
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 20:06:13 GMT

I went to get a "pre-approval" on a mortgage before we find a home so that
things "SHOULD" go a bit smoother?  Anyway the loan officer was pushing
Conventional over FHA once she found out I had $10,000 in my 401K Plan at work.
She said it would be no problem getting it and using it to buy a house.  Is
this a good idea?  It could combine with the profit from the sale of the house
we are in now to be able to give the 20 % down and get rid of PMI.  Anyone
have an idea about this???

-Guy

 guy@nsco.network.com, Guy Dandrea, Network Systems Corp., Mpls. MN 55428,  USA 
                        1-800-328-9108  Fax:(612)424-1736 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Running Coax and phone lines
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 15:56:14 GMT

In article <Bw2u7E.857@apollo.hp.com> daniels_d@apollo.HP.COM (Dave Daniels) writes:
>I am in the process of having a house built with the
>second floor unfinished. I want to run coax cable and
>a telephone line to the second floor, before the drywall
>is installed. My question is, is it okay to run the cable
>through the same holes as the wiring for the electricity
>or is this against some kind of wiring spec. If I have to
>drill new holes I will, I was just hoping I could use the 
>existing holes.

I know of no code problem here, but what will you use the coax for?
Running electrical wiring too close to the coax will cause interference
with some types of signals. I doubt if it will interfere with the phone
signals, but I could be wrong there. I'd run the stuff separately.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | You can't find the answers in the bottom of a
George Patterson -  | whiskey glass, but if you look hard enough, you'll
                    | forget the questions.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ram@watson.bms.com (Gena Ram)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Log Home info request.
Date: 16 Oct 92 19:28:00 GMT
Organization: Bristol Myers Squibb Pharmaceutical Research Institute
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1

In article <1992Oct16.174119.5169@viewlogic.com>, mike@fuego.viewlogic.com (Mike Ethier) writes...
> 
> 
>I'm considering a log home in the near future.

Please post a summary of your responses to the net or email me if possible, 
I'm considering the same and am very interested.  Thank you for the 
consideration!

Gena
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gws@n8emr.cmhnet.org (Gary Sanders)
Subject: Re: propane generator
Organization: HAM BBS, 614-895-2553 (1200/2400/v.32/pep)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 92 00:17:11 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.130944.15727@iplmail.orl.mmc.com> randyw@iplmail.orl.mmc.com (Randy Walker) writes:
>
>  I live in Florida and, after seeing the effects of Hurricane Andrew
>  on the Miami area, I want to be able to produce enough electricity
>  to run essential systems in my house. I intend to buy a portable generator.
>
>  I want to buy a propane generator or convert a generator to run on propane.
>  The reasons are:

	I dont know about propane, but there are a number of natural
gas generators. Also conversion kits are available to convert a tradional 
gas unit to a natural gas unit. I think portable and big enough to 
run essential items might be exclusive of each other. If you dont 
need AC  then you might get away with a portable, but in Ohio it gets a 
bit cold and powering the motor for the furnace, plus other items will 
put me out of the power rating of most portables. You might want to 
take a look at Sears. They have a number of high wattage (10k+) units 
that are designed to set outside on a continual basis (looks like
an outside AC unit). They offer automatic and manual cut over units 
and options. (check local codes about full automatic cutover devices )

	I had looked at a unit when I purchaced my home. Most of the
power outages around here are weather releated. Natural gas almost
never goes out. For non-earthquake areas this might be the way to 
go. I would like to have a unit that can power sump pump or 
furnace fan motor, lights and my amateur radio station durning
outages. I couldnt afford the unit right after buying a new home
but the aux power unit is on my list.


-- 
Gary W. Sanders gws@n8emr.cmhnet.org, 72277,1325
N8EMR @ N8JYV (ip addr) 44.70.0.1 [Ohio AMPR address coordinator]
HAM BBS 614-895-2553 (1200/2400/V.32/PEP) Voice: 614-895-2552 (eves/weekends)
From: jcoates@ncrsmg.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Jim D Coates)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: help! my landlord wants to sell my townhouse and I would rather
Date: 7 Oct 92 20:19:05 GMT
Organization: NCR Systemedia Group Headquarters, Dayton (Miamisburg), Ohio

not move.
Summary: 
Expires: 
Reply-To: jcoates@ncrsmg.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Jim D Coates)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: NCR Systemedia Group Headquarters, Dayton (Miamisburg), Ohio
Keywords: 

In article <1OCT92.13014034@enh.nist.gov> raghu@enh.nist.gov writes:
>hello:
>I am renting a townhouse in miami florida.  
>My lease expires Nov 30, 1992.
>The owner of my house wants to sell the house.  
>He started the process even before hurricane andrew hit us.  
>But then nobody was buying.  
>Now that the hurricane has come and gone, houses and condos are getting 
>sold in a hurry.  
>I wish to retain my apt for 2-3 more months because I expect to leave 
>town by then.  
>Also, it is hard to find an apt to rent now around here.  
>What options do I have, if at all.  
>My landlord is a decent guy and I have $1000 of deposit also.  
>So I do not want to do anything stupid.
>raghu@enh.nist.edu

Sorry, but legally you have no recourse. It is his property to do with as
he sees fit. And as long as he notifies you that you have to move in the
proper time period as specified in your lease, you HAVE to move then. 

However, some thoughts - first of all, could you possibly buy the property
from him? There are many sources of low down payment mortgages these days,
and the mortgage interest rates are the lowest they've been in decades.
You will gain incredible tax advantages owning your home vs. leasing. And,
if you move out, you can keep the townhouse as a rental property, which has
even more tax advantages than living there. And, I wouldn't think that it
should be tough to find renters these days in your area.

Secondly, since you are only looking for a couple of months, you could
approach your landlord with the idea of paying him extra for the months
after your lease expires (say $100-$200/month) if he will leave it off of
the market for that period of time. He probably won't agree to this, but it
may be worth a shot.

Your only other hope is to get him to sign a two or three month extension
to your present lease. Depending on your state laws, a signed lease may
be legally enforceable with the new owners, i.e., even if he sells the place,
the new owners may have to honor the lease.

Best of luck!

-Jim
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: seeking copy of NEC..
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 8 Oct 92 17:54:41

In article <Bvt1zp.DL5@scd.hp.com> toml@wal.hp.com (Tom Luteran) writes:

     I'm trying to buy a copy of the National Electric Code (NEC) book.  Can
     someone tell me if this should be available at electric supply houses or
     do I have to order it by mail from some organization?  Not an item they
     stock at Home Depot, at least ;-).

You want the annotated code,  which can be ordered through a bookstore.
The real code is a standards document,  and unless you're a real
expert you need the annotations that explain the standard (note that
I need them with both a BS and MS in EE).

--

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: why don't we live in prefab concrete houses?
Date: 12 Oct 92 15:40:37 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<1992Oct9.234749.3518@data-io.com>
Reply-To: emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH
Keywords: 

In article <1992Oct9.234749.3518@data-io.com> brunson@davinci.Data-IO.COM
(Kaye Brunson) writes:
>
>So, the answer to your question is:
>       Because we've never done it that way before.
>


        Actually, my sister lives in one of the first concrete
        houses ever built: in 1908, in Chicago.  With the house
        came a huge package of info: news articles printed in
        '08, letters, etc.  So, it has been done, but even then
        it did not catch on...plus ca change...

        Anyway: the biggest drawback seems to be:  concrete ain't
        easy to re-model...and of course, the original plumbing
        all has to be redone now, and they sure would like more
        and bigger windows!


        Elizabeth
From: heon@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (garry.j.heon)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: High Eff Furnace Question
Date: 14 Oct 92 20:35:25 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <1992Oct14.132942.14376@ryn.mro4.dec.com>, abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
> 
> In article <1992Oct13.135151.431@sdc.com>, kenk@sdc.com (Ken Konecki) writes...
> An analogy to today's autos is not out of order. Today's computer
> controlled, multi-valve, fuel-injected engines are certainly
> more efficent than those of 20 years ago. However they are more
> costly to maintain and repair.
WHAT!!!! My fuel injected computer controlled all that stuff 300ZX has
160,000 miles on it and the only thing I had to pay for was oil and filters.
Bad analogy, I don't know what kind of car you're driving.  As for the furnace,
I've had a Carrier High Eff furnace for 4 years, never had a problem
with it.  What are you doing with yours?
> 
> Whether or not you save money overall with high-efficiency burners 
> is heavily dependent on the cost of fuel. Moreover it is impossible
> to predict the price of fuel 5 and 10 years from now and this 
> figure is often needed for cost calculations.

I saved big $$$.  With the regular eff furnace, what ever you want to call
it (RUDD) 150,000BTU my gas bill was $270 a month.  Now I pay about $160
to $170 a month (carrier 150,000btu).  Yea, a $100 a month is enough for me.
From: jdavidso@teknowledge.com (Jim Davidson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: >>> ARM info <<<
Date: 14 Oct 92 02:00:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cimflex Teknowledge Corporation, Knowledge Systems Division
In-reply-to: rusty@cbnewse.cb.att.com's message of 9 Oct 92 16:09:38 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.160938.22093@cbnewse.cb.att.com> rusty@cbnewse.cb.att.com (jane.a.horodeck) writes:

> What is interesting is that the interest rate is based off the
> Cost-Of-Funds Index, COFI.  The way it was explained to me is that
> the COFI is the average of ALL savings interest rates paid at ALL
> financial institutions/thrifts.  And as we all know too painfully well
> interest rates paid by banks, S&L, etc have been extremely low in
> recent years.  Hence once advantage of COFI; another is that savings
> interest rates do not change dramatically like Treasury Bills.  And
> I have assured (by the people who want me to borrow!) that any change
> in COFI happens slowly (when was the last time interest rates paid
> on your savings account was high?) and takes great periods of time.
> 
> The potential lender provided me with various propoganda and all
> indications is that with the combination of bi-weekly payments
> and the low COFI, this mortgage program is a great deal!  And to
> sweeten the pot, there are 0 points... (currently offered at
> COFI + 2.1%, 15 years).

[Apologies if other replies have appeared to this msg; we're a little
behind on our newsfeed.]

You presumably mean the "11th District Cost of Funds", which is a standard
index for adjustables in the west.  I've never bothered to find out exactly
how it's derived, but your description is pretty good.

You're right -- it's a slow-moving index.  In the past couple of years, it's
come down much slower than, say, 1-yr T-bills.  The good news, of course, is
that it also goes up much more slowly.  The COF has been dropping over the
past year or so, and there's no indication that it's bottomed out yet.

A 2.1% margin is pretty good.  Since the 11DCOF is currently at 4.874%,
your rate would be 6.974%.   You might want to compare it to what you'd
get with a fixed mortgage, though.  

The index is published in all the major financial pages.  You ask what the COF
has done in recent years.  I happen to have data going back the past 3 1/2
years:

11th District Cost of Funds


			1989	1990	1991	1992
			----	----	----	----

January			7.914	8.595	8.044	6.414

February		8.04	8.476	7.963	6.245

March			??	8.369	7.858	6.002

April			??	8.403	7.848	5.800

May 			8.423	8.258	7.654	5.611

June			8.648	8.211	7.501	5.427

July			8.797	8.171	7.329	5.290

August			8.923	8.086	7.155	5.258

September		8.844	8.109	6.998	5.069

October			8.763	8.075	6.845	4.874

November		8.807	8.091	6.714

December		8.643	8.050	6.566


(Note that these figures correspond to the date that the COF was *announced*.
There's a two-month lag.  I.e., the current figure is 4.874, which is
officially the COF for August.)


-Jim
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Electric Drill Recommendation
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 15:46:34 GMT

In article <4gZ9RB2w161w@cdthq.UUCP> gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
>
>Not quite, I'm afraid. The criteria is "if it breaks". So, buy all
>the old wrenches, the ones that are not usable (some of those older
>tools are not only usable, but frequently better made), clamp in a
>large vise, stick pipe over the end, and break it in half.
>
>I've heard one story of a fellow taking a box-open wrench that he'd
>bent sideways back, and being refused an exchange. He reportedly
>took it outside, snagged it under a steel railing, and jumped on
>it a few times until it broke in half--whereupon he carried the
>pieces in, and got a new wrench.

The best case I ever had was one of the half inch drive ratchet handles
they sell. The one that has the forward/reverse control in the center
of the head? I was working a job which involved stripping concrete forms
from a wall about 40' above the floor.

I was working away, and dropped the ratchet. The best way to describe it
is to say it exploded - pieces went everywhere. I took the bare handle
back - just a bar of steel with a hole in one end. They gave me a new
one.

Most of my wrenches and such are Craftsman. Sears doesn't sell any
carpentry tools which I would buy, though. I can get cheaper elsewhere.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Under Consideration": We never heard of it.
George Patterson -  | "Under Active Consideration": We're searching the
                    |    files for it.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,news.answers
From: house-archive@jester.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: misc.consumers.house FAQ (frequently asked questions)
Supersedes: <posting_717566404@dg-rtp.dg.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 92 04:00:15 GMT
Expires: 8 Nov 1992 04:00:05 GMT
Reply-To: house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation. RTP, NC.
Followup-To: poster

Archive-name: house-faq
Last-Modified: Wed Apr 22 10:30:32 EDT 1992

Welcome to misc.consumers.house.  Many of the questions that come up here,
quite possibly including yours, have been covered before.
A collection of discussions on various topics is available from the 
misc.consumers.house archive server.  To learn about the archive server, send
an empty piece of mail to:
	house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
(You should be able to just reply to this posting.)

If for some reason you have problems, send mail the address that you get by
substituting 'admin' for 'archive' in the above address.  (Why do I state
this in such an odd way, rather than just writing out the address?  I'm
tired of people carelessly sending mail to the wrong place!)
If you have to send mail to 'admin', be sure to include every conceivable
piece of information that I might need to reply to you, up to and including
a phone number where you will accept collect calls.  If the daemon can't
figure out how to get mail back to you, I probably won't be able to, either.

Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: esr@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Edwin S. Russell)
Subject: copper pipe
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:53:08 GMT

As part of a forthcoming kitchen remodel I plan to start replacing our  
25-year-old galvanized pipe with copper.  The simplified residential building  
code summary put out by the city building department does not specify types  
of pipe required.  

Can someone briefly describe when type L and type M rigid copper pipe are  
required?  I know type L has a thicker wall (and is more expensive).  Any  
other differences?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house