HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gfritz@sage.cc.purdue.edu ("Happy Fun Ball")
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: DeLorean info request
Date: 13 Apr 92 17:47:56 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center

Hello everyone.  I am doing some research for personal curiousity, and I would
like to compile as much information as possible about John DeLorean, DeLorean
Motor Company, and the DMC-12.  Facts as well as rumors.  Good books on the
subject.  Good periodical articles.  Word of mouth.  Are there archives of
articles which have been converted to electronic text?  Like I said before,
any and all sources are wanted.

This request will be posted in several groups which I thought appropriate.  As
If you regulars feel that this post has been placed inapropriately, then I will
apologise in advance since I do not read these groups regularly and may not
know what is taboo.

Please respond via e-mail, as I no time to sift through these newsgroups.  I
also send my thanks in advance, and please don't get offended by not receiving
a personal note of thanks.  "Thank you all for your help."

Geoff Fritz

 ==============================================================================
 || "Maybe its imaginary, I'd like to know. ||            sage.cc.purdue.edu ||
 ||  What's the world coming to, and where  || gfritz @--(       or          ||
 ||    will it go?" -- Kirsty MacColl       ||            mn.ecn.purdue.edu  ||
 ==============================================================================
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5867 rec.autos.sport:3435 rec.autos:11443
From: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos
Subject: Iskenderian Phone #?
Date: 15 Apr 92 12:50:33 GMT
Reply-To: kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Brian Kiviat)
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

If anyone has the phone number of Isky please e-mail this to me.
It is probably in most Hot Rod type mags.

Thanks,
Brian

kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil
From: baxter@ksr.com (David Baxter)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Mitsubishi Galant VR4 clutch
Date: 7 Apr 92 08:16:31 EDT
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA

Thanks to all who responded with suggestions about my clutch.

The dealer agreed to take apart my transmission and investigate it
and if necessary install aftermarket parts for me.   They opened it
up and found nothing except a worn out clutch plate (down to the
rivets).

I phoned Mitsubishi Consumer relations and explained how I was disappointed
in this and had solicited comments from both the Unisys news group and
from Usenet.   They talked with the dealer and agreed to pay for the
repair.

Of course there is no explanation for why the clutch would fail in 23K
miles.    I will be extra careful with the new one.


                                        Pat Jesson  (714)380-6351
                                        Mission Viejo, rm B145
--
David Baxter	baxter@ksr.com	617/895-9465 
Kendall Square Research
170 Tracer Lane, Waltham, MA 02154-1379
From: jjg8@jaguar.uofs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevy 350 in a toyota 4x4!!
Date: 14 Apr 92 23:53:51 GMT
Organization: University of Scranton

Well this is my first post ever so forgive any mistakes!!


There is two things I would like to talk about so here we go:



First, when I was home from college durring X-mas break my friends 85 toyota
truck blew its dinky little 4 cylinder! The truck is huge, 3" body lift and 4"
suspension with 35" tires and no changing of gears was done in the pumkins to
gear it down a little, so the engine was bound to blow.  Well anyway we ripped
out the motor and decided to put in a Chevy 350 and a turbo 350 trans. We got a
kit from Downey, a toyota aftermarket company, that linked the 350 trans to the 
toyota transfer case and gave use special motor mounts for the motor.  While
looking for an engine we wound up purchasing an LT1 350 freshly rebuilt for
$500 and a Turbo 350 out of an 81 Cammaro.  Well when I went back for spring
break my friend had gotten everything together except for the few little
annoying nick nacks.  Like finding a radiator that can keep it cool!!  This is
the major problem right now we have a small 3 core and have had trouble finding
a four core.  Does anyone have any suggestions for this problem???

Secondly, this has encouraged me to try something similar, but less radiacal. I
want to put a straight six from a toyota supra into a toyota truck, mainly
because it bolts right to the existing 5 speed trans.  I think that I will have
a little trouble with motor mounts, so any suggestions are welcome.  Can anyone
see any other problems I might have????

						The Road Runner
						Joe Garcia
From: kenny@world.std.com (Kenneth R Crudup)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: *Help w/Tach and Paint
Date: 9 Apr 92 13:54:53 GMT
Organization: Software Tool&Die, (Boston), MA

In article <92099.194101CXB150@psuvm.psu.edu> CXB150@psuvm.psu.edu says:
>       I need help instaling a tachometer into a 85 chevy caviler

>my first problem is that my coil is electronic with 7 wires coming out
>and it is underneth my carb

On a stock '85 Cavalier? I think you've got your distributor mixed up
with your coil. Your coil is underneath your intake manifold (you have
a throttle body w/fuel injection, not a carb). There are 2 primary
wires and one hot lead. The only thing I can think of that would have
7 wires coming out of it is the distributor.

>the second problem is that I dont have a tack scew on my dist cap

There is a provision for a tachometer. Look (this is from memory, so bear
with me) along the large wiring harness that comes from the right side of
the engine compartment. There should be a white wire hanging on it's own,
near the firewall, with a black (?) connector coming from it. This is the
tach connection that feeds thru a filter back into the harness, and would
go thru to the tach. If there are two (I believe there will be) use the
one with signal. I added a factory guage set from a Pontiac Sunbird to my
'84 (RIP). This signal I believe is 5v p-p.

-- 
Kenny Crudup, Unix Systems Consultant	kenny@world.std.com
16 Plainfield St. Jamaica Plain, (Boston), MA 02130-3633
Home +1 617 524 5929 	Home Fax +1 617 983 9410
							Lick Bush in '92!
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Electric Fuel Pump Noise: normal ?
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:13:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: fmsrl7.1992Apr13.191303.9548
Organization: Ford Motor Company Scientific Research Labs, Dearborn, MI

crimmins@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Mark Crimmins) writes:
: 
: I have an '84 BMW 318i, which has an electric fuel pump back by the
: gas tank.  I have had no performance problems (such as poor
: performance at high revs), but I worry about the noise I hear.
: After extended highway driving, though, it complains with a
: medim-high-pitched wail---not loud, but definitely a complaint rather
: than a purr.  Is this normal from an electric fuel pump, or am I
: liable to be stuck on the highway someday soon?

Electric fuel pump noises are common.  They usually do not
indicate imminent failure (my mom's Volvo has been making fuel
pump noises for over 50,000 miles).

As I understand it, the noise gets worse when the rubber mounting
bushings deteriorate (or get stiff).  It is also possible that
the mounting has shifted enough to let the side of the pump
touch something solid, and therefore transmit the noise.

The fact that it only happens after highway driving is a bit
unusual.  Maybe it's temperature-related.

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jemcd@dasher.uucp (25634-mc devitt)
Subject: Rust Removal
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 02:14:37 GMT

Hi,

I don't know if this has been discussed before since I don't
usually read this newsgroup. But... I'm buying a steel trailer
and all the places where the metal is welded together have
rusted.  What is the best way to remove this rust and prepare
it for touch-up painting?  I'd like to avoid a total repaint.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Jim McDevitt

From: mdrayton@hpmwtd.HP.COM (Mike Drayton)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 17:46:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Ford 150 Blues
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD). - Santa Rosa, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

 borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:
>If all this looks good, go out and by yourself a new clutch.
----------
Not to argue with a fellow HP'er, but I'd rebuild or replace the slave
cylinder if I had the _least_ doubt about whether it were good.  The
low level of fluid in your clutch reservoir suggests that there's been
some fluid loss, though we don't know over what period of time, and
the other indications sound very much like hydraulic line troubles. 
I don't know what Ford had in mind by not providing a bleed valve,
though.  My experience has been that these indications always point
to the clutch hydraulics.

My suggestion of replacing the slave cylinder first is because that's
probably the cheapest thing to do, and has a reasonable chance for
success.  How you'll get new fluid in there and bleed it, someone
else will have to answer, though.

If this solves your problem, you might want to replace the
transmission oil to get rid of all those chips!

Mike Drayton
mdrayton@sr.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Braking: Use brakes or transmission ?
Organization: Brandeis University
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 13:52:41 GMT

In article <ktpsm7INNbda@spim.mips.com> bhaskar@mips.com (Bhaskar Janakiraman) writes:
>The doubt is about how to brake to a halt - whether to downshift 
>from 4-3-2 and then brake to a halt, or just shift to neutral and 
>brake. I have heard a lot of conflicting opinions about this. What's 
>the long term effect of both these methods ? Does using the transmission
>to brake shorten the life of the transmission ? Or does using the 
>brake (power brakes actually) wears down brakes ? What's the best for 
>a new car ?
>
>Please forgive me if this question has been asked and answered recently.
>I havent had sufficient time to follow this newsgroup. 
>
>Bhaskar

Many ways, depending on lots of things: specific car, situation, etc.

Shifting down through the gears is useful if your brakes are bad and
need the assist.  This is really only true of pre-war GP cars.
Moreover, using the clutch ($400 replacement) in exchange for brakes
($100 replacement) is economic poor judgement.

Shifting down directly to the appropriate gear is very useful and
necessary if you are racing and intend to drive the corner as fast as
possible.

If you happen to be spinning (many 360's) put both feet down: clutch
disengaged and brakes on hard.  This gives a nice predictable
trajectory so that others can avoid you.

To stop the fastest, with a modern car on dry pavement, just nail the
brakes.  Disengage clutch just before you stall.

/andy
From: sekell@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: trivia answer WAS: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Date: 11 Apr 92 23:17:24 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <johnson.702862833@wrs.com>, johnson@wrs.com (David Johnson) writes:
> And for more trivia:
> 
> What was the original 6-71 developed for?
> 
 
> It was originally developed by GM as a low-cost compact engine for the
> "disposable" landing crafts of WWII.
> 

How would this function as an engine? I always thought it was designed as an
exhaust scavenger for large GMC diesel engines.
  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Scott Keller	+1 314 537 6317	    The Agricultural Group of Monsanto Company 
  sekell@bb1t.monsanto.com  	KA0WCH		packet: ka0wch@k0pfx.mo.usa.na
From: pc@slipknot.eng.pyramid.com (pc)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Escort clutch and timing belt
Date: 16 Apr 92 00:06:04 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Patrick J. Connor @ PYRAMID

My neighbor wants to do some repairs on his cars and asked me
for advice, but I only drive pre-70s cars and have never done
any repairs on a later model car, I thought I would bounce this
off you guys.

He has a minimum of experience and tools and wants to know of any
good advice or pitfalls to look out for and if this is possible to
do without any special tools.

The specifics:

1986 Ford Escort EXP 1.9 liter, 5 speed.  Needs a new clutch.

1989 Ford Escort 1.9 liter.  Needs a new timing belt.

Sounds pretty straightforward to me, but I stay away from these
late model cars! :-)

I'll pass any info you might have onto him.

thanks,
pc
-- 
      -m---------    Patrick Connor           Pyramid Technology   
    ---mmm-------    (408) 428-8819           3860 North 1st St.
  -----mmmmm-----    pc@pyramid.com -or-      San Jose, CA           
-------mmmmmmm---    uunet!pyramid!pc         95134              
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wrl@kepler.unh.edu (William R Letourneau)
Subject: Re: HILFE!!!
Organization: University of New Hampshire  -  Durham, NH
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 21:13:28 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.054108.16297@menudo.uh.edu> kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown) writes:
>In article <1992Apr12.173602.29695@nntp.hut.fi> iceman@vipunen.hut.fi (Joni Siltaniemi) writes:
>>
>>I have an old BMW 315. I am coming to Germany in summer and I'm going
>>to have the "engine" replaced there.
>
>The "engine"?  You mean what's under the hood now isn't a real engine?
>
>Well, if you want a *real* engine, why not try putting in a Ford 302?  :-)
>
  
  Because he wants an engine that will last more than 80k miles....

>Sorry, I couldn't resist.  :-)
>
  Neither could I ;^)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
wrl@kepler.unh.edu
bletourn@comptel.unh.edu                         BMW 320I w 210K on it
bql@noah.unh.edu                                 and it still blows away
						 many 4 bangers..


Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5917 rec.autos.driving:2472
From: whs70@dancer.uucp (24411-sohl)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Photo-Radar in New Jersey - Call your representatives TODAY!!!
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:55:46 GMT
Reply-To: whs70@dancer.UUCP ()
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

The state police have made their big announcement about the beginning
of PhotoRadar being used in NJ.  It is still only issueing warnings,
BUT they say (several newspapers have carried front page stories
yesterday and today) they will start issuing actual tickets in several
weeks.

Photo Radar has many problems associated with it: Due process issues,
discriminatory issues, etc.  I'll post more on this in the near future,
but if you live in  New Jersey, call or write your
legislators today to oppose Senate bill S-532 which
will allow the use of photo-radar.  In fact, tell them you want a bill/law
passed which would make it illegal to use photoradar in NJ at all.

If you live elsewhere, but drive through NJ, let your state legislators
know you are opposed to photo radar.  Think about it: Your son/daughter
(or maybe your spouse or friend)
is driving a car registered in your name and drives through a photoradar
site.  A ticket is issued to YOU, for which YOU must pay and YOU
get points on YOUR license as well as higher insurance costs.
Of course you could always "rat" on the other person.  Boy, doesn't this
sound like the good old USSR and/or Nazi Germany?

Also, if NJ does this, how soon will it be before your state adds
photoradar to its list of anti-motorist techniques?

Standard Disclaimer- Any opinions, etc. are mine and NOT my employer's.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Sohl (K2UNK) BELLCORE (Bell Communications Research, Inc.)
Morristown, NJ             email via UUCP      bcr!dancer!whs70
201-829-2879 Weekdays      email via Internet  whs70@dancer.cc.bellcore.com
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 3.1L V6 Oil Changing
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:47:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division

In article <8APR199208301110@quark2.aero.org>, lee@quark2.aero.org writes:
> Hi, I just bought a '92 Pontiac Sunbird with the 3.1L V6 engine.  I would
> like to do my own maintanance so I bought the Helms service manual for it
> (official GM manual).  I was appalled when I could not find any mention
> of an oil drain plug in the manual!!  So the question for all you people
> who have cars with the same engine (it is used in many late model Pontiac,
> Chevy, Oldsmobile, and Buick cars) is: does this thing have an oil drain
> plug?  ...

I suppose we have the same engine, 3.1 V6, '90 Olds Cutlass Supreme Intn'l.
The drain plug is on the backside of the oil pan, hard to see from the front.

 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *  Sure to get `Flamed' if I didn't cross my all i's and dot all my t's ;-)
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Accord Sun Visor
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 21:30:01 -0500

 > From: wyl@mahoosuc.NSD.3Com.COM
 > Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
 >
 >
 > The sun visor was broken due to the defect design of
 > the automatic seat belt which clashed it.
 >
 > Can I replace just the rod of the sun visor from the
 
I would go to the dealer and DEMAND a new/repaired sunvisor.  When 
they say no call the zone and bitch mightly.  You might get if free. 
 otherwise I guess you should just pay up and buy a car that has  
been designed so it's seatbelts do not destroy it.  I must say that 
as a confirmed anti-honda guy I am still VERY surprised that this 
occured.  I will give 'em their due and say that honda generaly does 
a good job on stuff like this....(in the design phase...accura wrote 
their customer relations code by simply reversing everything honda 
does)



Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5776 rec.audio:7352
From: acura@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (james.r.feeney)
Newsgroups: rec.auto,rec.autos.tech,rec.audio
Subject: Anyone ever dealt with Custom Auto Audio??
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:30:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


 I want to get a radio for a 63 T-Bird and I've heard that a place called
Custom Auto Audio makes radios for old cars that fit the dash without making
modifications. Has anyone ever dealt with these folks?

Thanks

Jim Feeney
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: AC/DELCO FILTER FUN F
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Apr 92 08:34:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059

-> few years in the Fram guide.  For most passenger car 350's, a PH30
-> was listed.  Then I noticed for heavy duty appications(cop cars,
-> heavy trucks, etc)  a one-quart spin on filter was recommended.
-> (PH13)  So I took the filters and compared them.  The gasket and
-> threads were exactly the same, so I opted for the bigger filter.

 For more fun, look in the truck section.  Most companies also make
2-quart filters.  Check ground clearance before installation!

 The larger filters typically have less restriction, so *indicated* oil
pressure may drop depending on your actual engine type.  Not to worry -
the bearings are actually getting more pressure than they were before.
From: cm@cci632.cci.com (Carl Mercer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Big problem with 1990 Toyota V6 4x4.
Keywords: Help!
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:31:51 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Consoles Incorporated



This posting is for a friend who does not have net access.  Please respond to
me (cm@cci.com) and I will pass the information on.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

To all Toyota V6 truck owners (or anyone who has seen this problem)
 
I own a 1990 4x4 V6 Toyota pickup and I'm getting excessive carbon build-up 
on the valves and in the combustion chamber.  I first took it in to be     
looked at when it had 17K miles on it.  The dealer told me the problem was 
the gas I was using, MOBIL super unleaded.  They did a carbon flush at    
that time.  I switched to regular unleaded gas (Atlantic, Sunoco, Hess).  
I took it back in recently with 26k miles on it and have the exact same  
problem.  They again say it is the gas and that I need another carbon flush 
(this costs some bucks).  They also say that a carbon flush is part of the 
regular maintenance of the truck.  I have a problem with this since its not 
stated in any of the manuals that a carbon flush is needed on a regular basis.   
I am getting fed up with the dealers excusses, any information as to 
the possible problems and solutions for this I would be appreciated.
 
                                                          Bob McElroy
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
NOTE:  I also own a 1990 Toyota V6 4x4 pickup.  I have 37k miles on it 
and I have never had, nor needed a carbon flush.  The plugs were changed 
2K miles ago and were a nice light gray/tan color.  I use the same gas as
Bob (hes, Atlantic).
From: edhresko@hresko.ncsu.edu (ERIC DAVID HRESKO)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Scout II hesitates...
Date: 13 Apr 92 17:09:17 GMT
Reply-To: edhresko@eos.ncsu.edu
Organization: Techno-Geeks Inc.

--	I have a ,77 Scout II which seems to have a hesitation problem.
After replaced the spark plugs and air filter,  I have noticed that whenever
I have to quickly accelerate, the engine hesitates and in some cases almost
stalls for a quick second before it perks up.  I tried carb/injector cleaner
and that has not seemed to help.  Any ideas?


Eric

******************************************************************************
Eric Hresko		* Mail:  edhresko@eos.ncsu.edu                       * 
Kanki House of Steaks   * Voice: (why would you want to call?) 1-919-821-5168*
Dishwasher 2nd Class    * HK Rules!!! (But a FAL will do in a pinch)         *
DISCLAIMER:  I don't wear sandals, eat granola, or tiptoe thru the Tulips    *
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zardoz@rx-db (zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com)
Subject: Re: Fuel octane, Carbon, pinging, etc
Organization: Intel Development Tools Operation, Hillsboro, OR
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 21:32:02 GMT

If you don't like carbon, liberal water injection will do the trick.
I have seen the results of this with head gasket leaks that suck water
into the cylinder.  Upon removing the head, one piston is observed as
shiny and spotless.  
Personally, I'll take the higher compression and adjust my ignition
timing as needed to compensate for the octane.  

-- 
Fan mail may be sent to:
zardoz@rx-db.hf.intel.com