HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: What wood goes well with Birch-veneer ply?
Date: 28 Jan 93 14:17:20 GMT
Followup-To: rec.woodworking
Organization: GTE Laboratories

In article <1993Jan27.235816.14411@netcom.com>, badboy@netcom.com (Jay
Keller) wrote:
> 
> In article <1993Jan26.143004.9637@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> 
> walsha@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (It ain't what they call you, it's what you answer
> to. -Bill Clinton) writes:
> 
> >I love birch venner ply. Does anyone have any ideas on an
> >common wood to use for trim if you like the look of natural wood?
> 
> >-- somthing that goes well with birch or stains the same shade.
> 
Try red birch (the sapwood from normal white birch trees). Don't stain, you
don't want to hide that beautiful color! You can also get red birch
plywood.


michael
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: db21@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (david.beyerl)
Subject: Re: And now, more "Hometime" news
Organization: AT&T
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 11:28:48 GMT
Summary: Well put Dave.  I also am treated similarly there and in fabric shops.

In article <1993Jan25.040017.23145@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
> Michelle Stone writes:
> >
> >I am often completely ignored when I am looking at power tools and
> >other construction type stuff.  I hate it.
> >
> 
> If it is of any consolation to you, let me assure you that this particular
> knife cuts both ways.  Almost universally, whenever I am shopping for one
> or more of: curtains, bed linen, towels, and furniture, I am either treated
> like someone who keeps my taste in a damp, unlit portion of my anatomy, or
> more commonly, like someone who would go into anaphaletic shock if I was
> shown anything with flowers on it.

	Well put Dave.  I have experienced much the same type of treatment
when shopping for linens and furnishings and also when I go into a fabric shop.
By necessity, I do my own sewing primarily for repair but also because every
pair of slacks I buy has to be shortened.  I also have occasionally made
something from scratch starting with buying a pattern and the fabric.  The
assistance I receive from the clerks has been anything but courteous.

	A few years ago I took an adult education sewing class to gain a
better understanding of sewing -- I was the only male in a class of 15!  Our
first project was a pair of pants.  I did not care for the pockets on the
pants pattern so I found another that had what I wanted.  I then incorporated
the new pockets into the pants making adjustments along the way.  When the
teacher came to approve my layout, she was concerned that I had deviated
from the original pattern.  Only after I showed her my sketches, templates
and sample pockets did she relent.  However, she then asked why I was taking
a sewing class when I was creating my own designs.

						Dave Beyerl
						att!ihlpm!db21
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:29:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>>>gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>Steve Bellovin writes:  
>>>In article <4320147@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>>>   The magnetic switch is not the solution for your problem, Steve.
>
>>>>   You problem is the location of the switch, not the way it functions.
>
>>>I understand how it works.  My previous posting was a bit too brief; let
>>>me explain a bit more.
>
>>   Again, I feel the need to point out that a magnetic switch is not 
>>   necessary for this.
>
>Steven also wants the advantage of the saw staying off if there's a power
>failure, then a restore.  It's independent of the switch location/size
>issue.  However, since you can't do his "big button" trick with the toggle
>switch on this unit, he can kill two birds with one stone - build
>the magnetic switch with two push-buttons, one to start the unit, the
>other to stop it.  Furthermore, the magnetic switch arrangement allows
>you to use normal momentary contact pushbuttons - mechanical latching
>pushbuttons are failure-prone (or rather expensive) in this sort of
>application.

   Agreed.  If I sounded a bit nit-picky, it's because I think it is
   important that others not be misled;  the difference in cost between
   a magnetic switch and a start-stop button that solves the "easy shut-off"
   probem could buy a very nice saw blade.

   While Steve Bellovin may know the difference, there is a significant 
   amount of ignorance in the woodworking world regarding these switches.

   For instance, I tried the "big piece of scrap, start-stop button" on
   my Delta Contractor's saw, by using a different switch (I actually
   traded switches with my Jet Jointer).   I found the arrangement not
   to my likeing at all.

   This weekend I bought some 12/3 extension cord wire, and ran the connection
   from my saw motor over to the wall, up it, and across the ceiling.  Now,
   my switch hangs from the ceiling on a cable and can move around with
   the saw.  It is totally out of the way, and no matter what happens, I
   can easily reach it.   This completely solved the problem for me, without
   spending $80 for a magnetic switch.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <PH500000@BROWNVM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 11:01:50 EST
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Vacuum hose reducers

>Posted on 22 Jan 1993 at 10:40:36 by Bramel, Jim
>
>Re: Vacuum hose reducers
>
>Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 10:33:38 EST
>Reply-To:     Woodworking Discussions <WOODWORK@IPFWVM.BITNET>
>From:         "Bramel, Jim" <UKA004@UKCC.UKY.EDU>
>
>I am surprised anyone would admit to owning anything Sears after the
>beating I took a few weeks ago about my Sears tools.
I will only admit to owning their vacuum, not their jigsaw or 1/2" drill.



                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
From: norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ROUTER TABLES
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:05:44 GMT

: 
.  Has anybody had good results with any particular make or model
: of router.  I want one that it variable speed and of course can handle some
: heavy duty use.

I've had good luch with my PC 660 (or is that the sander)  any way, it is
the 1.5 HP router without the D handle.  I understand that 'D' handles can
be a small problem for tables.  Can anyone confirm or refute this?  BTW
Woodsmith has a good router table plans if you are interested.

Norm

*******************************************************************************
norm@oliveb.OLIVETTI.COM

                 "Watch this space." -- Acme Advertising
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 22:01:13 GMT
Subject: Re: Power Hand-Planer Question (naive alert!)
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

grina@news.fai.com (Peter Grina) writes:
>
>Does anyone have any comments regarding hand-held planers (or is it "planes"?)
>that are powered with .4 or .5 hp motors?  The Sears prices range from
>about $70 to $150, and the regular old-fashioned(?) planes can easily surpass
>those prices.  What are the limits and capabilities of these hand-held power
>planers?  
>
>Since the cutting action appears to be very similar to the jointers, can a
>hand-held power plane (fastened to a table) serve as a poor man's jointer?

  Pete,

  Good questions!  

  I have a Makita 2.5" power planer, and it has some uses, although I'll
  be darned if I know what they are :-)  :-)

  Seriously, I bought one quite a while back before I really knew that
  much about woodworking.  I was using it to strip off layers of paint
  and stain from the cabinet doors on my kitchen.  

  Basically, the problem with this is that paint is hard on the blades.
  It worked, but it wasn't pleasant, and I finally gave up because it was
  too easy to cut through the top layer of veneer.

  I DID mount it upside down and use it as a jointer, and this worked
  pretty well.  The only problem is that if you joint pieces longer than
  about 20", you need a table longer than that little 4 inch foot outfeed
  foot.    Also, without a blade guard, it is a pretty scary little monster,
  and it would be very easy to rake your knuckles or finger tips across 
  those spinning blades.  Gives me the willies just thinking about it.

  However, I found it superior to using a router as a jointer, even at
  that.  I think if you could mount this sucker inside a table and level
  the outfeed foot to the outfeed portion of the table top, you might
  have something, especially if you add some kind of a spring-loaded
  blade guard.  

  I didn't really have the time, so I just bought a jointer.  

  My advice (for what it's worth):  If you can get one used, cheap, then
  or if you already have one, give it a try.   I wouldn't buy a new one
  to use as a jointer, as they run about $120, and you would be better
  off putting the money toward a real jointer.  I have seen them as low 
  as $250, if you really need one and don't mind a few hassles with the
  end-mounted fence--it certainly couldn't be worse than the hassles of
  mounting a hand powerplaner in some kind of table top.

  I have been advertising my Makita for sale now for about a year for 
  $80, and I haven't had any luck.  Wanna make me an offer?

  gph@zeppelin.pa.itc.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: New Workbench (was Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....)
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 17:51:18 GMT

In article <1993Jan28.163747.2377@bmers145.bnr.ca> tpc@bnr.ca writes:
>In article <1993Jan26.221406.15837@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord) writes:
>> To all of that I added the novel "twin screw" end vice from Vertias, with a
>> large maple jaw drilled for dogs on the sides and top, matching those on the
>> main benchtop.  This vice uses a pair of 1.25" acme thread screws, with small
>> sprockets and a bicycle chain connecting them, causing them to turn in unison
>> when either handle is used.  Nifty.  
>
>Yes; I'm definitely going this way when the time comes.  It's a great idea,
>kudos to Veritas for coming up with it...

Kudos where kudos are due.  Scott Landis, in The Workbench Book, 
has a picture of this very same thing from somebody's shop somewhere.
Sorry, can't remember name/location, but I know it didn't originate
in the R and D department of Veritas.

Bill
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Planer Questions
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:18:56 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino

WHY IS THE MAKITA PLANER MORE EXPENSIVE?
The planer always was higher, versus the Delta.  Part of that
is labor costs in Japan versus Taiwan, partly its perceived value of Makita,
which has a good blade change system and a rep for high quality.

Take note:  All Makita tools are likely going up in price soon due to an
anti-dumping suit brought by Black and Decker.  


WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE MAKITA PLANER?
For me the Makita has a fatal flaw: depth of cut is set by raising the table
(which precludes fixed infeed/outfeed tables), most other planers raise the
cutterhead.  This cancels any advantage of the superior blade change system.  

SOME RAMBLINGS ON BUYING A SMALL PLANER
I recently went through the small planer selection bit, finally narrowing
it down to Delta, Makita, Ryobi and Grizzly.  Surprisingly, Grizzly was too
expensive ($399 + $50 shipping).  Makita lost out mainly due to the moving
table, but also due to high cost (460).  The new 12 inch Ryobi AP12 won on
technical merit, mainly due to its quick-change blade system and $420 cost.
The Delta was just a good solid planer with no special features, at $430.

Now came a dilemma:  I wanted a tool I could live with.  It had to work 
well and be durable, and I knew I would want to get parts for it.  
I felt the Ryobi was the best choice technically, but it had unknown
reliability and poor dealer support in my area.  I must add that I have
the Ryobi joiner (JP155), and have loved it but had a hard time getting 
new knives for it.  I had a queasy feeling about buying another Ryobi, so
I hemmed and hawed ...  until I chanced to talk with a young man who had 
just been through high school wood shop.  He claimed his school shop burned
out the Makita, the 10 inch Ryobi but not the Delta.  Hardly a scientific
test, but...

I finally bought a Delta 12 inch and am satisfied so far.  It works well,
seems rugged enough, and I had no trouble whatever getting spare blades
at my local tool monger.  Now if only my ancient Sears table saw would
break, so I could justify another new toy!
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 21 Jan 1993 05:59:22 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET (Jim Morgan) says:

>>
>>Enough already.  NYW shows how to do the same thing using different tools.
>>The show tries to address issues such as 'is it better to have a radial
>>arm saw or table saw' (Another worthwhile issue that we've beaten to
>>death here!)  If you stop watching the show with the idea that you are
>>going to be given step by step instructions for building something and start
>>asking yourself 'How can ~I~ make that cut with ~My~ tools' you will get a
>>lot more out of the series.  That, after all, is the fun of woodworking.
>>If, on the other hand, this seems to be more mental strain than you wish to
>>use,  perhaps furniture KITS would be a better solution.



>>build in peace
>Thank you for your condescending post.  You seem to have interpreted my
>comments to mean exactly the opposite of what I had intended.  Moreover,
>we seem to be watching different shows.  Everytime I watch, all I see is
>NA saying, "now I'll use my xxxx to do this ... now I'll use my xxxx to
>do that ... "  I don't ever recall him saying, 'now I'll use my xxx to do
>this, rather than my yyy, because ...' or 'now I'll use my xxx to do this,
>but if you don't have one, you could also use yyy.'  I think that the
>unfortunate message this sends to aspiring woodworkers is that you can't do
>much unless you can invest thousands of dollars in esoteric gimcracks.


Norm doesn't usually offer different techniques on the same show, but if
you have the followed the show for any length of time, you will have
seen Norn use a number of different tool to accomplish the same task.
I have seen him cut dadoes with a tablesaw, a radial arm saw, and even a
router. He cuts mortises with drill press, a mortising machine, and even
a router.( and even by hand, I think ) The same goes for tenons.
Yes, he uses the hell out of his pneumatic nailers!

>BTW, I'm certainly not looking for 'step by step' instructions on how to build
>what NA is working on - if I were I'd just go out and buy his books.  What I
>am looking for is information on woodworking techniques, so I can expand
>my problem-solving armamentorium.  I agree with you that problem solving is
>a lot of the fun of woodworking; I just think this aspect of the craft is
>slighted by the show.

On the contrary, I've been highly impressed with some of the solutions
that Norm (or someone else on the crew) has come up with, especially in
designing and using jigs for production type work.  I think his problem
solving in this area is very educational.

That's my opinion, and I'm sure we all know what they say about
opinions.


Dave

-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dbsjwb@Edm.Arco.COM (James Bielak)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Originator: dbsjwb@doofus
Reply-To: bielak@arco.com
Organization: ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 21:46:02 GMT


Several months ago I completed an armoire, or wardrobe, or perhaps
entertainment center.... Solid sides, top, bottom, and middle shelf,
three full size drawers below middle, and open area above middle for 
a television. The doors are frame/panel. Has very simple lines,
and could be considered NeoShaker but for the crown, which is fairly
ornate.

Steve Pinn mentioned attaching moulding with dovetails. The armoire
was a candidate for similar treatment, but I devised another way
to handle things. The crown is built as a frame, with moulding 
built up on the front and sides. The frame merely sits on the top
of the carcass, and the carcass can swell front-to-back as much
as it wants, with the crown riding out the changes independently.
The base (kicker) is attached at the front, and with flat-head
screws and slots at the back, avoiding constriction of movement
in the carcass also. I did the drawer guides in a similar fashion,
attached at the front, free to ride at the back.

One nice thing about the crown is that it is detachable, and makes
moving easier (and chance for damage less likely).

There were a few small pine cabinets, glass-enclosed candle
holders or sconces, and of course, my maple workbench ala Frank
Klausz. I am currently resawing some old teak doors from a
refinished boat (free from a neighbor... the wood that is) and
plan to make some teak/maple boxes, 4x7 or so.

Then, a coworker is considering commissioning an entertainment
center (keeping my fingers crossed), and there is some rumbling
about a chest of drawers....

So many scraps, so little time!...

jwb
-- 
bielak@Arco.COM             ARCO Exploration and Production Technology
james.bielak@Edm.Arco.COM   2300 W. Plano Parkway PRC-D1148A
(214) 754-6184              Plano, TX 75075

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Priority: normal
X-mailer:     Pegasus Mail v2.3 (R5).
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 27 Jan 1993 08:25:22 CDT
From:         George Brandsberg <GBRANDSB@OZ.UMB.KSU.EDU>
Organization: KSU Cooperative Extension
Subject:      Sources of furniture plans

I'm interested in gathering all the information I can
about suppliers of plans for building furniture--all
styles, levels of skill required, complexity, etc.

Browsing Fine Woodworking and BH&G WOOD turned up only
a couple sources (catalogs, as I recall), so if you
have a favorite, please share name and address with me
(or better yet, everyone on WOODWORK).

Thanks.

George Brandsberg
Kansas State University
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: Drafting software for the shop
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 21:37:20 GMT

I use Corel Draw, mainly because it's what my wife needs for her
graphic design business.

It's a general-purpose drawing program, not a CAD program, and I'm
probably missing out on something, but it seems to work fine.

It's also great for schematic diagrams of electronic circuits.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
From: smedley@newton.ccs.tuns.ca (Prof. Trevor Smedley)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dovetail jigs
Keywords: dovetail jigs
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:08:03 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Technical University of Nova Scotia, Halifax, N.S.

In article <429@biosys.apldbio.COM> timb@apldbio.com (Tim Burcham) writes:
>I'm considering buying a dovetail jig...

I'm also planning on buyying one of these.  I have heard of four:
Incra (and Incra Pro), Keller, OmniJig and Leigh.

Are there any others I should be considering?

Could people who have used one of more of these give their opinions of
them?  I will summarise e-mail responses to the net in a few weeks.

Thanks,

Trevor Smedley -- smedley@tuns.ca
Technical University of Nova Scotia
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 22 Jan 93 18:00:29 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Jim Morgan writes:
>
>Thank you for your condescending post.  You seem to have interpreted my
>comments to mean exactly the opposite of what I had intended.  Moreover,
>we seem to be watching different shows.  Everytime I watch, all I see is
>NA saying, "now I'll use my xxxx to do this ... now I'll use my xxxx to
>do that ... "  I don't ever recall him saying, 'now I'll use my xxx to do
>this, rather than my yyy, because ...' or 'now I'll use my xxx to do this,
>but if you don't have one, you could also use yyy.'  I think that the
>unfortunate message this sends to aspiring woodworkers is that you can't do
>much unless you can invest thousands of dollars in esoteric gimcracks.

Again, you definitely need to watch more closely.  I was just watching
some shows from a previous season that I had taped, and Norm did
*EXACTLY* what you claim he doesn't.  He had a problem to solve (how to
make a particular cut) and went through 4 or 5 alternate methods,
giving his reasons why he thought they would not be very good.  He 
finally settled on the tool he used because it lacked the flaws of the
ones mentioned up to that point (sorry for the lack of details - I am
on the road, and I watched the tape last week).

If you really pay attention, you will probably find that the most
commonly used "esoteric gimcrack" in Norm's repetoire is the common
router!

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Sniping thread, please???
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:50:17 GMT

In article <6210@ceylon.gte.com> boykin@gte.com writes:
>In article <HOLLEN.93Jan18075054@peg.megatek.UUCP>, hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
>|> Well, as invariably happens, just when I think I don't need some
>|> thread, a couple of weeks later, I do.  I just bought a thickness
>|> planer and now I need the thread which explains how to minimize
>|> sniping.  I have adjusted in/outfeed tables very carefully and the
>|> cutterhead height from left to right and all that, but still get about
>|> 2 1/2" of snipe on the end of a 2' board (the only size I had
>|> available to try to plane).
>
>Relatively speaking, I think adjustment of the in/out-feed tables is a
>small part of end-snipe.  Sniping occurs at the beginning or end of a
>board when the board is not being controlled by the rollers before &
>after the cutter head.  For the planer you have, with relatively small
>in/out-feed tables, almost any size board will snipe unless you use use
>additional supports.
>
>I have a Grizzly 15" planer with fairly large tables (about 2' of support
>on each end).  I've played around and don't get any sniping for boards
>that stay completely on the table (roughly 2' long).  Anything past that
>and you need to be careful and add extra supports.
>
>Making sure those extra supports are level is harder than keeping the
>planer's tables level, but well worth every minute it takes (unless you
>like loosing  the first/last foot of every board you plane!)

Well - I'll admit up front to the purists that this is probably
cheating, but then I am not patient enough to continue tinkering with
the various settings and alignments to eliminate the sniping. My 12"
Delta planer does a great job, but does snipe some on the end, of
course. My solution is to feed a piece of scrap along with the good
workpiece - the scrap gets the snipe and the good workpiece does not.

-- 
Goal: To benefit from the offer for "Free Tools Tomorrow" that
is posted in many store windows.
Standard Disclaimer, of course.