HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I've just seen a mechanical ABS retrofit.  Its called "ABS-TRAX" and is
supposed to be derived from aircraft systems.  Have you heard of it, and if
so, any data-points or anecdotes?

The system consists of a small pressurised chamber which fastens (one per 
brake circuit) onto the master cylinder output, somewhat like a reserviour.
The chamber contains a pressurised Nitrogen chamber and diagphram; when the
brake fluid hits a pre-set pressure (supposed to be within 5-10% of lockup),
a valve will actuate to relieve the pressure and keep the wheels on the 
threshold of skidding (somewhat similar to threshold braking).  Under normal
braking, it is supposed to not activate.

There is no speed sensor like the electronic versions.  Since this device 
works on a principle similar to threshold braking (I think), it appears to
be better than electronic ABS, no?

The sales guy could not tell me how/what was used to determine the threshold 
nor the method of pressure relief.

This system is supposed to in use on aircraft, and is supposed to reduce 
braking distances by up to 30%.  Its also supposed to be DOT certified (for
what its worth).  The company claims to have sold 15000 units in US alone.


Does anyone have any experience with this?  Does this system sound viable? 
Is this really used in aircraft?  Should I part with good money for this?

(price is approx US$620, incl installation).

comments/suggestions welcome.
lawrence
leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com

From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 06:19:46 GMT
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) writes:

|Yes, Jags have used the GM400 transmission.  Some have been
|surprized to see a GM part on a Ford owned product.  In the
|US they use GM parts in the a/c unit.  GM 350 engines are
|common swap-outs.  The Lucas fuel injection is really Bosch.
|The interior is Connaly(sp), the body parts are (I think)
|Midlands Pressed Steel, fluid cleaners are StanPart, etc...
|
|It kinda makes you think that they are all in it together
|to get us!

Yup.  Also referred to as "value added." :-)

lawrence

|
|Rick
|
|------------------------------------------------------------
|     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
|  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
|  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
|                            / /_/
|                           /
|My opinions are my own, untill they're worth something, at
|which point they become the property of my employer...
|------------------------------------------------------------
From: steve@tr.UUCP (steve chandler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: After market fuel injection
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:30:05 GMT

From article <19469@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu>, by sddascomb@ucdavis.edu (Steve Dascomb):
> Somebody on the net metioned that Holly had a fuel
> injection system called 'Projection'.  Does anyone else 
> know more about this system or other systems, the cost
> of the systems, and what's included in the packages.  I
> would like to put one of these systems on a small block
> Chevy.
> 		Steve Dascomb, sddascomb@ucdavis.edu

The holley projection system is basically a replacement for their
carburettor. It fits onto the old manifold. Therefore it is a throttle
body system. Go to your local Hot rod shop or performance center for
more info.

Other manufacturers are Haltech in TX - this system is more "programmable"
than the Holley (you connect your PC to it), but is more expensive.

Also EFI technology in CA (?) have a nice system which also controls
ignition timing as well, even more expensive.

Accel also supposedly make a system, but their sales people keep 
forgetting to send literature.


cheers


steve . 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill)
Subject: Re: Do I have grease fittings (or a place for them)?
Organization: Telecom Australia Research Laboratories
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 23:28:03 GMT

welchb@woods.ulowell.edu writes:

>How do you tell if your car is able to be greased?  I.e., if you take it to a
>quicky oil change place for a complete oil and lube job, and then find
>that all they had to do is change the oil, you could do it yourself.

Well, couldn't you do it yourself anyway even if you had to do the greasing?  I
thought the greasing was a pretty trivial part of the operation (in my car at
least).

Chris O'Neill
Telecom Australia Research Labs
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:42:29 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

On 16 Nov 92 08:31:47 CST, dilmore@cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore) wrote:

>    Is there any other type of transmission that operates like this?
>I mean the part about keeping it in first and leaving it there.

The owner's manual for my '92 Dodge Grand Caravan claims that putting it
in first and leaving it there will result in it always being in the lowest
possible gear for a given vehicle speed.  It will only upshift to prevent
engine damage.  (Of course, my 3.3L Mopar V6 is nothing like that Jag V12!
The day I picked up the van, I got to drive a BMW 750ii -- kinda reduced
the thrill of driving the new van.)

>BTW the 1993 conv 12v is going to be over 90 grand!

Yikes!

>Robert


--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: choke trouble in '71 Chevy 350
Date: 19 Nov 92 19:24:09 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


     It sounds like you may have an air leak. You shouldn't have to give
it gas to start it. In fact, I wouldn't `floor' the pedal to set the choke.
It only requires a slight depression of the gas pedal to kick in the choke.
     Try turning the key and depressing the gas pedal about an inch at 
exactly the same time. This is the procedure that has got me going without
problems for a long time on my '76 Buick.
     When you have the time and inclination, check all of the vacuum hoses
for cracks and maybe check the timing.
     You can buy a manual choke conversion kit quite cheaply. These things
are `universal' which means that you have to be a mechanical wizard to get
it to work in some installations. I used one on a '68 Dodge once and it did
work but it was hard to set it just right to get the car to start and then
run correctly. Use this as a last resort if you have to.

                             Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: How anti-lock brakes work (may start an interesting discussion)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 14:54:07 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.183531.24876@CSD-NewsHost.Stanford.EDU> 
sankar@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Sriram Sankar) writes:
> 2. Can the pumping be isolated to just one wheel and leave the braking 
effect on other
>    wheels as is even if they are on the same hydraulic circuit?

Since brake "Pumping" is the modulation of brake fluid pressure, all 
wheels on a circuit are pumped together. 

> 4. Do cars differ in the number of wheels on which anti-lock is 
supported?

 Look at the brake control unit on a high end German car and you will see 
separate brake lines for each wheel.  As noted in another posting, there 
are more affordable systems that operate only on the rear wheels (Ford 
pick-up trucks, for example) and there are systems that group the rear 
wheels on one circuit.

>Suppose the right wheels go into the shoulder which is icy, and the 
brakes >are applied.  Both the right wheels skid and the other two wheels 
are still >firmly gripped in asphalt.  What if the right wheel brakes are 
pumped by the >anti-locking >feature?  This effectively causes all four 
wheel brakes to be >pumped (note I assumed answer to 2 was NO).  My guess 
is that this will >severely decrease >the braking effect as compared to 
not pumping the brakes >at all.

>6. Do you believe this?

It certainly seems to make sense that independent control of each wheel 
will result in shorter stops: why reduce the breaking of wheels which are 
not skidding ?  The only logical reason is to reduce the cost of the 
system.  BTW, these reduced cost systems probably have a much better 
cost/benefit ratio than the fully independent.


Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15517 rec.autos:26986
From: tomy@carson.u.washington.edu (Thomas Tucker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: remove inside rear-view mirror - HOW?
Date: 17 Nov 92 09:25:40 GMT
Organization: University of Washington

aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:


>In a previous article, pete@wvus.org (Pete Gregory) says:

>>Hi - I just bought a factory replacement rear-view mirror for my 1969
>>Porsche - the old mirror is broken but still glued to the windshield
>>with whatever epoxy they used 23 years ago.
>>
>>How do I remove the old mirror without breaking the windshield?  Is
>>there something that will dissolve the old epoxy but not the glass?
>>
>>Thanks...

>super glue remover, maybe..dunno..never tried it..just thought i'd offer.
>or maybe fingernail polish remover..never tried that either...
>good luck
>DREW
>-- 
Here's my ill-informed but likely useful advice:

	Try chromic acid.  A solution of potassium dichromate in
18M sulfuric acid (which yields chromic acid) works wonders for
removing organic materials from glass.  There's just one major
drawback: this about as serious as oxidizing acids get.

Use gloves, goggles, as much H2O as possible when you finish,
and, if possible, a vent hood while you attack the problem.

I've never tried this; it may not work.  But if it does, I'd love
to hear about it, and it'd make a great story to tell your chemically
minded pals, if you survive.

BTW, super glue remover and nail polish remover tend to be the same
sort of thing: a low-molecular weight ketone, usually acetone, or
acetone diluted with some other solvent.  I don't think this will
work, unless the epoxy resin hasn't fully cured yet.  But, by all
means, please try the organic solvent route before you go for the
big guns.

Let us know what happens.

-tomy.
Tom Tucker
tomy@maxwell.ee.washington.edu
From: steve@presto.ig.com (Steve Barnhouse)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: choke trouble in '71 Chevy 350
Date: 18 Nov 92 18:58:33 GMT
Organization: IntelliGenetics Inc., Mtn. View, Ca.


I have a '71 El Camino with a 350 engine with Edelbrock manifold and
Rochestor Quadrajet carb.  I'm having trouble starting when the engine
is cold.  If I floor the accellerator, the choke closes as it should.
But then to get the engine started, I need to give it gas as I'm
cranking, otherwise it won't start.  As soon as I give it gas, the
choke opens which of course makes it hard to start.  (I've observed
this with the air cleaner off.)  

Is this a problem with the choke or with the mixture?  The carb is
running pretty lean as evidenced by the popping sound when I get off
the gas.  Should I richen the mixture?  Idle speed is about right (I
don't have a tach, but it sounds right).

Is there an easy way to convert the automatic choke to a manual choke?

Thanks for your suggestions,
--steve                                          steve@presto.ig.com
From: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: aligning fog lights
Date: 16 Nov 1992 21:51:48 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


anybody knows the measurements/specs for aligning fog lights ?

thanks in advance
jerry

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: Greasing sealed steering linkage, Possible?
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 02:29:00 GMT

   I have a 88 toyota pickem up truck that lacks grease fittings on all the
steering linkage. The only grease fittings are on the ball joints and torsion
bar pivots. Is there any reasonable way to introduce fresh grease into the
sealed units. The only thing I've been doing is every now and then saturate
the rubbber seals with silicone spray. All the linkage is still tight.

Kris

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.antique
From: harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Subject: engine rebuilding recommendations
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 15:39:24 GMT

I have a Chrysler 383 that I would like to rebuild as a project this
Winter.  I am looking for recommendations of books and/or kits that
might be able to provide me with some helpful hints, particularly with
regards to reassembly.

I have the Mopar Engine book and one called _Engine Blueprinting_, but
although they are very good at telling you what to do, they do not
always say how to go about doing it, or in what order.  For example,
when putting the crank back in, I know that rapping the end with a
mallet will help to seat it correctly, but none of my books mention
this.  They are structured by system, but do not cover the procedure
for a complete rebuild.

Drop me a line if you know of a good step-by-step rebuilding how-to
manual (preferably a specific title), and/or a kit (like a gasket kit)
that you have found to be very helpful.  I'm planning on keeping this
one very stock, i.e., replace as few parts as possible.  If I get this
one right, maybe I'll try a few performance mods next time (if there
*is* a next time).  Thanks.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
From: shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Stumbling Chevy
Date: 17 Nov 1992 02:34:57 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu


After seeing my roommates totally go beserk on one of their cars, I started
to think about what is making my chevy stumble so badly on acceleration. 
Here's what its doing:

Start accelerating, from say, a light.  it accelerates fine for about three
to four seconds, then it starts up something like a miss or a stumble.  It
quits this if I let off the gas and runs normally.

Vehicle in question:  1979 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup truck, 305 engine, Rochester
Q-jet carb, (upgraded from Rochester Dual-jet 2bbl) Headers, and dual
exhausts.  

My theory behind this is that some way or another, the power system in my
carb is to blame.  The truck has had this problem since I have owned it,
even through a change in carbs, from a two-barrel to a four-barrel. 

I'm thinking that the vacuum conditions are changing such that the power
system is cutting out too early, resulting in an overly lean mixture; hence
the stumbling.  Would there be something else in the carb fuel supply system
that might account for this?

Would there be another cause besides something in the carb?  I've replaced
the distributor cap, and plugs and wires.  I don't have access to a coil
tester, but it passes both the Chilton's and Haynes tests for a coil.  The
igniton module passes on the module tester at the parts store, but it is old,
probably the original module.  The coil is probably the original coil, too.

Any ideas?


-blaine
          a.k.a. The Midnight Shadow    |  1979 Chevy Urban Assault Vehicle
Texas Aggie Bus Driver and proud of it! |  1982 Thomas Transit Liner bus
Another Bodybuilder from HELL!!         |  1982 Yamaha Vision   DoD #7192
        "Mine is not to wonder why, Mine is but to look and cry....."



          a.k.a. The Midnight Shadow    |  1979 Chevy Urban Assault Vehicle
Texas Aggie Bus Driver and proud of it! |  1982 Thomas Transit Liner bus
Another Bodybuilder from HELL!!         |  1982 Yamaha Vision   DoD #7192
        "Mine is not to wonder why, Mine is but to look and cry....."

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Subject: 240Z-280Z Problems?
Originator: psanders@ll.mit.edu (Pete Sanders)
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 18:20:22 GMT


	Iv'e been really enjoying all this Z car talk.Let me tell you 
about the Z I have.

	Mine is 1972 240Z with 67k miles. Originally from Ca, it has a 
little rust starting. Everything is stock except for the engine,trany, 
and suspension.

	As far a running high octane in the older Zs, its absolutely
nesessary. I think the ealy 240s had around 10:1 compression. Mine
needs it even more because of the turbo and 20 psi boost it can
generate. Water injection and a special cam keep it from pinging
under boost when its in good tune. It's coupled to a 5 speed close
ratio transmission. When downshifting to 4th, and tromping on the
gas, 65MPH can be scary. The exaust is 2.5" aluminized pipe from
the turbo back to the turbo style muffler. K&N air filter etc etc.
I think it puts out around 200HP SAE (from 150HP SAE when stock).

	The suspension has performance springs, big sway bars, and
Koni struts. You have to stand on the brakes to stop it. It has
P215-65R390 performance tires on aloy wheels on it.

	I guess I like these old Zs because of their character. No
bells or wistles in this car, just pure sports car. Its not an easy
car to drive (at least mine isn't), but is it fun! Iv`e owned a 300ZX
and my dad had a 280, but I like the old 240s the best.


	Keep up the Z articles!     ( I do read z-car@dixie.com )
From: michaelp@frak.usc.edu (Michael Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Carbs, Carbs, and more Carbs...
Date: 17 Nov 1992 13:56:25 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: frak.usc.edu
Keywords: Carb


	I have a 1969 Ford Mustang with a 351W engine.  It runs a bit poorly when
cold but works better when warm.  I've had two or three people tell me that my
carb is old and need to be replaced.  My question is what type of carb would be
good to replace it with.  Ford no longer make the original, but I have had people
suggest Holley, Eldbrook(sp), and others. Is there any real difference between
these or are they all the same?  BTW, it is a two barrel carb.

				Thanks
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tire size conversion program
Date: 17 Nov 92 17:37:31 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Distribution: usa

Who's got the tire size conversion program and can you (whoever you
are) quickly tell me the expected speedo error when tire size
215/75R15 is used instead of 205/75R15? The veh is calibrated for
the 205.

Someone's already got this program written, so why bother re-inventing it.
JSLee
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!)
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 17:22:15 GMT

svissa@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Sirish Vissa) writes:

>In article <Mf37Jey00VI=423EY3@andrew.cmu.edu> Paul M Taylor <pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>{ stuff deleted }
>>Yep.  It's called most any automatic.  The Jag uses a GM TH-400 
>>last time I checked.  Later models have the 4L80, a HD, OD version
>>of the regular 400.  Also shift kits set to street-strip will overide
>>the default upshift.
>>
>Sorry Paul,
>   Just could not resist.
>  Last time I checked, Ford owned Jaguar....
>    What would a GM transmission be doing in a Ford car.....
>just my $.02 worth.
>                  sirish

I can't say for sure whether or not you're right, but it wouldn't surprise
me in the least.  The issue of small-volume specialty cars is a very different
case from most.  On the XJS, Ford may have found that the money it saved by
not retooling and redesigning the drivetrain made up for the indignity of
having a GM transmission.  Besides, car companies can be very friendly and
businesslike.  Look at the Mercedes 500E.  That car's more than half built by
Porsche!

Wasn't there a car in the '60s (I want to say the Cobra but i know that's not
it) that was owned by Chrysler but had a Ford engine or vice versa?
Enlighten me, anyone, please (As I'm sure you will :)


Michael T. Chaffee        |******BOYCOTT COLORADO******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:15654 rec.autos.antique:51
From: dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.antique
Subject: Re: Triumph Spitfire idle problem
Date: 19 Nov 92 22:11:14 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

SD Bateson (u1a70@keele.ac.uk) wrote:
: 
: Hi everyone -
: 
: Over the past few months I've been sorting out various problems with the
: 
: latest old clunker that I saved from the scrapyard. The car is a Triumph
: 
: Spitfire MKIII, but has been converted to rally spec, then allowed to
: 
: degenerate somewhat. I've given the engine a tune-up, and after sorting
: 
: out various elusive gremlins, got her running smooth, except for the
: 
: idle.
: 
:       The engine is a 1300, probably running a stock cam etc, but
: 
: with HS4 carburettors (From 1500 MKV Spit) and a Triumphtune 4-2-1
: 
: manifold leading to a 2" straight through exhaust and silencer.
: 
: Although it idles ok at first (at about 850-950 rpm), after about 
: 
: ten seconds the idle starts to fall, and the engine stalls, unless I
: 
: rev it a bit. After another ten seconds of idling, the same happens.
: 
:      I'd really appreciate any help on this, as it's driving me mad,
: 
: and continuosly blipping the throttle at traffic lights is making 
: 
: me a target for boy racers and their traffic lights grand prix....
: 
: Thanks
: 
: Simon Bateson
: Keele University
: England
: 
My suggestion to you is to put a 289 in it.  After all it's a triumph!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech