HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: [ offensive heading deleted ]
Date: 27 Sep 1992 14:06:27 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


	As I wish to give some legitimacy and remain some sembelence of
decency, I have deleted the rather vehement post by Brett J Grimes. How-
ever, I shall address his concerns.

	This board retains discussion in a very civil manner. We try to
help others with their problems, exchange ideas and concepts. I'll thank
you to respect our wishes.

	Yes, there are many who own car systems who are sophomoric and 
impose upon others. There is no denying the fact. Many local areas have 
laws against such things. I think you'll accomplish more in calling up
your local city council board representative and discuss the issue with
him, than blinding and ignorantly lashing out to this board.

	However, like anything else, this in no way reflects the body
as a whole, and specifically rec.car.audio. While I do not personally 
know most of the regular posters, all manage to post in a civil manner.
In that sense, they are more respectful than you, Brett. 

	Before my Cougar was totaled ( drunk driver ), I was running excess 
of 1000 watts. Yes, I could hit very very hard. However, whether or not
I have the capability to play extremely loud, in no way implies that I 
chose to do so on a regular basis. My usual listening was in the range
of 90-100 db's. Only at appropriate times, did I turn it up louder. These
were usually in area's where sound off competitions. However, some times
I would crank it in my neighborhood. I only did so during daylight hours,
and I never received a single complaint from the neighbors. 

	Nor, did I every debase myself by playing Rap. ( not to knock others
musical choices, but rap is not for me.) The only time when I did play it,
was only because other's wanted to hear it on a killer system. 

	Nor, do I ever annoy others with my lesser system in my new car back
home.  I do not wish to drive from Ohio to Florida six times a year. So, it 
remains in my garage, hardly annoying anyone else.

	When I am at college, I only ride around in my girl's Cadillac which
only has a headunit and four speakers; certianly incapable of interfering 
with anyone's daily duties.

	So, I ask you to re-evaluate the body at large. You concerns and 
opinions are received in an air of illegidamacy with your use of vulgarity
inapproriately. You are the one who seems sophomoric and immature in your
abuse of the keyboard. 

	And, you are a sad reflect upon Freenet in general and CWRU in 
specific. 


	
(Gees, I would expect such messages of vehemenency on alt.sex.priest or 
something, but on rec.audio??? )
-- 

	What God wants Gods gets... God help us all
From: pun@ins.cwru.edu (The Punster)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Wood for Subwooferd
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 20:28:33 GMT
Organization: I'm not very organized
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.22.68.65

In article <1992Oct1.120053.22109@cbfsb.cb.att.com> mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy) writes:
>From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
>Subject: Wood for Subwooferd
>Date: 1 Oct 92 12:00:53 GMT
>
>What kind of wood is best to use for Subwoofers?

	The only acceptable wood to build a subwoofer out of is paper pulp.
You could try building a subwoofer out of solid oak, but it'll not work as
good as kevlar or propolene...

	Oh, you mean the subwoofer BOX!
From: dcohn@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Lanzar amps
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:34:12 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

I am going to buy a new amp and would like a few suggestions. I have decided
that Lanzar is the brand to go with but I'm not sure if I should go with the
Plus 100 or the Opti 100. I'm going to be running 3 4 ohm Lanzar 15's in
parallel. I know that both amps can easily handle this load(.6 omhs mono). I
know that the Opti seris is fiberoptic and produces a cleaner signal, it
also keeps waves from being clipped. But I have heard that the plus series
puts out more power. Any suggestions? Also I want to build an 8th order, but
there isn't much info out on them can anyone help?
Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: koseki@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Ted Koseki)
Subject: Re: CDs for car stereo
Keywords: Sheffield Lab, Telarc  
Organization: University of Hawaii
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 11:43:16 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.220056.3777@scott.skidmore.edu> wwein@scott.skidmore.edu (warren wein) writes:
>
>	Car Stereo Reveiw once had a listing of the best cds to listen
>to to test the range of your car stereo.   I was wondering if anyone
>had any personal favorites of their own.

For all out system testing, I mainly use Sheffield Lab discs.  Favorites
include James Newton Howard & Friends, Pat Coil, Track & Drum records, 
The Usual Suspects, and Tower of Power Direct.  Another disc is from 
Telarc called "Spies."  Yes, these are mostly new age jazz, but they
sound incredible in the car.  Also, the IASCA disc from 1990 and the
current one "Speed of Sound from 1991.  (IASCA finals should be
sometime this month...)
 

>							- Warren
>						wwein@skidmore.edu

 Hope this helps!

          -Ted 
--
|-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-| 
| Ted Koseki                                    koseki@uhunix.uhcc.HAWAII.edu | 
|            "If you can't crank it, YANK IT!!!                               | 
|-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-|
From: brian@pawnee.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Need Help W/ ISOBARIC Box Design!
Date: 5 Oct 92 18:25:11 GMT
Organization: UF EE Department (student)

In article <1992Oct4.000157.18239@lsil.com>, gh@lsil.com writes:
|> 
|> ---
|> Brian got me confused:
|> 
|> >You can design isobarik enclosures just like any other.  To be an 
|> >isobarik system you need to seal two woofers together with a short,
|> >low volume tunnel.  The easiest way is to bolt to drivers face to face
|> >					   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
|> >and seal the assembly into a sealed or ported box.
|> 
|> Did you mean to add that the drivers must have 180 deg. phase offset?
|> Because if not, it seems to me that this arrangement would cancel out almost 
|> everything! 
|> 
|> --George 


I guess I did forget to include that fact.  Both drivers must be 
moving in the same direction to maintain the isobarik (constant
pressure in the tunnel) criterion.  So if the drivers are face to
face or back to back they need to be wired electricaly out of phase
with each other.  If the drivers are face to back (piggy back) then
the drivers should be wired electricaly in phase with each other.

I also neglected to mention that there should be a thin spacer ring
between the drivers when they are wired face to face.  If this ring
is not present then the surrounds of the drivers may touch and produce
some nasty noises.  In the same vain if the drivers are back to face
you must take care to insure that the cone of the "rear" driver does
not touch the magnet of the "front" driver when the drivers are moving.
If they do touch when moving the result could be a ripped cone.

Hope this clarifies things a bit.  If there are any more questions feel
free to e-mail me or post.

			Brian L. Gentry
		    (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: insomnia@carson.u.washington.edu (Ryan Klemmer)
Subject: Re: Q: Tweeter wiring from CSR..
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 05:37:17 GMT

gianos@leland.Stanford.EDU (Edward Alexander Gianos) writes:

>In the latest (Nov/Dec) CSR, about one of the installs, page 42, col3, PP2:
> 
>"  Next, the installer replaced the stock 3.5 inch dash speakers with 
>   Infinity's 1-inch Polycell tweeters.  The tweets fire straight up into
>   the windshield from a custom 1/4 inch Masonite plate; Barish wired them
>   out of phase so the reflected sound is in phase when it reaches Fine's
>   ears.  "
> 
>Whoa, I try to understand what I read in the mags, and follow the install
>(often poorly written) articles, but this paragraph threw me.  Why would
>someone wire tweeters out of phase?  Isn't the wavelength so small that
>you could make no determination?  I can understand time-alignment, but I
>do not understand this.
> 
>Instead of assuming they are wrong and I know everything, can anyone
>tell me why this was done/said?   Enquiring minds......
> 
>Ed 

I believe an earlier article explained why this is done (phased and 
confused?).  Roughly, the tweeters are wired out of phase, so that the
sound coming from them enters the ear at more or less the same time.
The reasoning is, being out of phase, one speaker is always one sending
out its signal behind (180 degrees off that is) the other.  You will 
still have some phasing problems, but it will sound better (in theory).

The earlier article also mentioned that you can plunk out a little :)
money on either the Fosgate or Sony DSP systems and let the DSP do the
work for you in setting the phase for you.

Ryan
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: miles@ms.uky.edu (Stephen D. Grant)
Subject: Re: ALPINE SUCKS!! (still)
    <tom.718217112@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu> <1992Oct4.213810.2910@wkuvx1.bitnet> 
    <1992Oct5.131303.18256@cbfsb.cb.att.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 01:18:39 GMT
Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences

mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy) writes:

>Maby my point was not clear:  The unit's that I bought 3 years
>ago, (Along with some friends who bought the SAME units and
>the SAME time) all have the same problems, along with some
>mail I have received from people on the net (Who wont post for
>some reason) I can conclude that theese problems are common to
>theese units, and alpine should be responsible.  My complaint
>Marc.

OK, I'll post.
A friend of mine is a service tech at the local Alpine dealership.
He told me (before I read Marc's story here) that the 7903's used a cement
(I believe on the circuit boards) that gave off an acidic gas. This gas
caused various rubber pieces inside to deteriorate. He had just finished
"rebuilding" one when he told me the story.
Personally, I have a 7905 hat has started acting up after 2 years of everyday
use. I'm still a big Alpine fan though. I have been well pleased with my
3554 and 3522 amps.
From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: 91 Talon Installation Questions
Date: 1 Oct 92 02:01:41 GMT
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd

In article 1adh2gINNpoh@uwm.edu, scottk@miller.cs.uwm.edu (Scott Knaffla) writes:
> I have a few installation questions about a 91 Talon, but it applies
> to other cars as well.
> 
> 1.  I know someone must have done it before so I am asking for some
> 	net.wisdom.  Where do you mount amps in a hatchback type car?
> 	I was think on the side of the "trunk".  Also the car
> 	has fold down rear seats so I don't want to mount it 
> 	in the middle and have the amps get banged up when I
> 	put something in there.  Has anyone mounted them in
> 	the engine compartment?  And if so did you have problems
> 	with heat or the elements getting at you amps?
> 

I don't know about the specifics of the Talon, but in general, you could
try underneath the front seats. I stuck two amps and an active xover under
my seats. Another good place is behind the plastic body panels (rear and
rear quarters). Definite stealth. The downside to this is the inaccessibility;
changing the gain settings could be troublesome.

> Please e-mail me your responses to one of the addresses given below,
> I will post a summary is it's warranted.

Sorry, I don't have email access.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Evan Hawrysh VE3MAN					"Sweatin' like steam and you can feel
	Bell-Northern Research				the flow when I'm rollin', in my 5.0"
	Ottawa, Ontario												     - V. Ice
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: nau@ssesco.com (William Nau)
Subject: Re: mail order stereo
Organization: SSESCO
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:11:10 GMT

>could someone please send me the telephone numbers of
>mail order (discount) places for auto stereo equipment?
>thanks.

While it's an understandable question, it get asked a lot.
Perhaps we should consider adding a list of places (ones to
try and ones to stay the hell away from) and add it to the
FAQ list.  I don't remember seeing anything like it in the
FAQ.
From: boing@mcl.ucsb.edu (Geff Hanoian)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Need suggestion on system components
Date: 30 Sep 92 21:22:09 GMT

In rec.audio.car you write:

>I would be interested in installing a new CD player and amplifier for my
>automobile. My interest in the amplifier is something with 2-channel 80 to
>150 Watts into 4 ohms. For the CD player, 1-disc is fine, as long as it
>doesn't skip and have a little anti-theft design (i.e. pullout/face-lift).
>Budget would be under $400 for the amplifier, and another $400 for the CD
>player.

>Your suggestions are grealy appreciated. Also I'd like to know some mail-order
>company that carry out higher quality products.

>Carlos

	Carlos,

	I got a PPI4200 amplifier for $380.  I know it's barely in your 
	budget but it's sounds real nice.  It's 4X50 RMS @12Volts
	and it's got a funky design.  It bridges to @X200 RMS.  That 
	should be adaquete.  As far as a CD player my personal recomendation
	is a Nakamichi CD TUNER 1 but that's about $600 if your lucky.
	So maybe check out an Alpine 7803S, I think that's the good
	looking removable face one.

				hope this helps



--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|  Nakamichi, Precision Power, AVI SOUND, and Monster Cable Speaker Wire.  |
|                           boing@mcl.mcl.ucsb.edu                         |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gregh@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (G. Hurtault)
Subject: Re: Car audio equipment for sale
Organization: UTCS Public Access
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:46:21 GMT

In article <6581@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> n3hnr@hpb.cis.pitt.edu (Jason Galanter) writes:
>I have the following Car audio components for sale:
>
>HiFonics Cyclops 100 Watt Bass amplifier

  Jason, is the amp just for reproducing bass or what?  Is it a one or
  two channel amp?  

  Please give more details...



-- 
      -----    |                   Greg Hurtault
     /     \   |            gregh@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca
     | reg___  |                 
     \______/  |  Is that a wiggle or a struggle?" "Macho King" Randy Savage
From: hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Subwoofer drivers (10") -- Pioneer, Pyle, Crunch
Keywords: subwoofer woofer speaker driver car audio pioneer pyle crunch
Date: 6 Oct 92 22:39:12 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1992Oct06.175112.15515%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu>, mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.) writes:
|> Need info on 10" sub drivers.  I have a Pyle Driver I, which is
|> ok, but not extremely impressive.  I also bought a Pioneer ($80,
|> with a poly cone), which I haven't tried yet (freq resp is good--rated
|> down to 18Hz).  A local store has Crunch 10" 4 ohm drivers for $72.
|> 
|> What I am looking for is CLEAN (NOT muddy!), accurate low end.

 That is exactly what I'm looking for too, Mike, clean
 tight bass to add some bottom, not BOOM!


|> My question is, if the Pioneer doesn't work out, how is the Crunch?
|> The store selling it has NO return policy, so I can't try it out
|> and simply return it if I don't like it, as I can the Pioneer.

 Don't the Pyle's, Pioneer's, and Crunch's tend to be more BOOMY
 rather than TIGHT?


|> Other 10" sub drivers in the $50-$80 range? 

 I would recommend JL AUDIO's 10" -  10W1.

 A local dealer just built a bandpass enclosure for one that
 sounds great and I intend to build one for my system.
 (Unless something better comes along.)

 Here's some specs:

      10W1
      Poly cone
      28 oz magnet
      2" voice coil
      Depth:  4.5"
      Fr:     23 - 180
      Watts:  125 cont/rms
      Qts:    .3967
      Vas:    3.36
      Eff:    92 db

 For the bandpass enclosure:

      Vol:   1.65 cuft  (18" x 15" x 12" box - external)
      Fr:    46 - 88    (rolls off down to 33)  
      Eff:   +7.3db     (good, yes?)


 The 10W1 lists for $99, this dealer sells it for $85,
 but you can probably find it cheaper.


 Hope this helps.

 TRAVIS
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Adding variable resistors to speaker level signal path?
Keywords: variable resistor speaker level amp
Date: 29 Sep 92 18:59:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BvCsrr.B1w
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

In article <1992Sep29.161345.12108%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu> mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.) writes:
}I figured the line level converter was acting as a zero-resistance
}load, resulting in the entire signal from the cheapo eq/amp going
}to the rears.

This would not be the problem.  If the line level converter is indeed
acting as a (near-)zero-resistance load, then the "cheapo eq/amp"
would "see" the next load in that line as the total line load (since
they're in series) which is the "good amp".  So the load that your
cheapo eq/amp is seeing is:

	1           1                  1
     -------- = ---------  + ----------------------------
      Cheapo    Front spk    (Good amp + line converter)

.. and so if the line converter is close to zero, the resistance of
that branch of the parallel line from the cheapo is very close to
the load from the amp.  Make sense? (Can anyone correct any mistakes
I've introduced here?)

As for what your problem is, then, well - I dunno.  Anyone?

I assume your head unit has preamp outputs? You may want to use a
Y-adapter to split the head unit's output into the cheapo and the
good amp.  If it only has speaker level outputs, use the line converter
after the head unit, like this:

                                      Cheapo amp --> Front speakers
                                    /
Head unit --> Line level converter <            Rear speakers
                                    \          /
                                     Good amp <
                                               \
                                                Subwoofer


I'm doing an install in my car that's very similar to your situation,
and the above solution is probably the one I will use - or close to it.

Jeff
--
*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*
+ Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu + "Watch the world argue / Argue with +
* "To be great is to be misunderstood." *  itself / Who's going to teach me / *
+ "Insist on yourself - never imitate." +  peace and happiness?" -- INXS      +
*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*
From: jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu (Jason Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Perfect Box
Summary: ftp 129.89.8.4
Keywords: perfect box subwoofer speaker
Date: 30 Sep 92 06:00:51 GMT
Reply-To: jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu (Jason Davis)
Organization: East Texas State University, Commerce, TX

Hello again fellow car audio enthusiasts...

   For those of you who have been asking the burning question:
"Where can I get Perfect Box"

PerfBox can be obtained via anonymous ftp from csd4.csd.uwm.edu
-aka- 129.89.8.4

Several other potentially useful programs are also available from this site
which is also the home of rec.audio.high-audio

The subdirectory in which these programs are located is: 
/pub/high-audio/Software

Perfect Box is available as perf.zip and perf.uu

...hope this helps.

Also, on the coil/cap source question, I have found MCM to be an excellent 
source of such components, as well as many other audio/electronics misc.
Their # is 1-800-543-4330.

REMINDER:  IASCA National Finals  Oct. 16-18, 1992  Tulsa, OK  ...see ya there!


   /|  Jason Lee Davis                        <jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu>  |\
||/_|  Shiloh Productions sound co. ____      <s2903d@etsuv2.etsu.edu>  |_\||
||\ |  Rt. 1  Box 175              (_ |_)     <s2903d@etsuvax2.bitnet>  | /||
   \|  Klondike, Texas 75448 ________)| _____ (903) 886-2903            |/
From: gh@lsil.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Need Help W/ ISOBARIC Box Design!
Date: 4 Oct 92 00:01:57 GMT
Reply-To: gh@lsil.com
Organization: LSI Logic Corporation


---
Brian got me confused:

>You can design isobarik enclosures just like any other.  To be an 
>isobarik system you need to seal two woofers together with a short,
>low volume tunnel.  The easiest way is to bolt to drivers face to face
>					   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>and seal the assembly into a sealed or ported box.

Did you mean to add that the drivers must have 180 deg. phase offset?
Because if not, it seems to me that this arrangement would cancel out almost 
everything! 

--George 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: smills@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (MuffinHead)
Subject: Re: all you guys read this the edited version
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 09:57:33 GMT

kist@acsu.buffalo.edu (james e kist) writes:

>In article <1a5kbiINNh6k@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bs753@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brett J Grimes) writes:
>>
>>My comments were not pin pointed to everyone who has a system in there
>>car just the ones who have that rap shit. I myself like to hear the

>You posted to this newsgroup, therefore, you offended everyone.

   Wrong. He did NOT offend me. I thought it was funny because I feel
the same way. I'm sick to death of hearing ONLY the low end that comes
booming out of cars playing some rap crap. I lived below a guy who had
his stereo in his bedroom and would play cRap at 4am. Even calling the
police on this jerk didn't help.
   Lighten up. Are a couple "swear words" really going to send you to hell?

>>bass but also like to here mids and highs. i have a eclipse head unit 
...
>>other amp go's to a pair of 12" jl audios in a isobaric box. and the are

>After reading your idiotic post, I really don't care what you have in your
>car. 

   Waa, waa. Look, this guy knows what is in his system. Ask most of 
these kids with big thumping cars listening to Ice Somethingerother crap
what their system is and they'll say "I dunno. My parents bought it for
me."

>>to all of you guys with the radios cranked. it said to all you guys with
>>the rap. If I pissed anyone of "sorry".

>Your use of the English language says more about you than any of your
>postings could.

[sarcasm-mode on]
   Right. Good one. Boy, you really got the best of him.
[sarcasm-mode off]
   You flame a guy whose phrasing or punctuation is a little off? Pardon
me, but even literary geniuses freeze up when they use a computer. Not all
of us have spell-checkers, thesauri, and grammar-checkers go over our
text before sending it.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car