HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dyson@sunfish.physics.uiowa.edu (Richard L. Dyson)
Subject: Other fish suggestions for a DISCUS tank
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Keywords: Discus
Reply-To: dyson@sunfish.Physics.UIowa.EDU
Organization: Department of Physics & Astronomy
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:26:32 GMT

I have a pair of discus which are by themselves in their tank and I
would like to add some other fish (just a couple) to help compliment and
enhance the biological system.  I also have a couple bunches of plants
(can't recall which kinds now) and LOTS of soft green algae.  With my
other tanks, I have usually had luck with lots of plants and/or plecos
to keep the algae in control.  But with these discus I am into new
ground and don't know if a common pleco would be happy in a warm
temperature tank (80-84 F).  Anyone have any comments or suggestions?  I
had tried a regular Kohli Loach, (at a fish store employee's suggestion)
and he died in a couple days.  Dont' really know why, so I don't know if
it would be worthwhile to replace it or not...

rick
--
Richard L. Dyson               INTERNET:  dyson@sunfish.Physics.UIowa.EDU
   Shortened "Top 10 Punchlines to Dirty Jokes Astronauts Tell"......
        (#7): 30 seconds and holding -- And please keep holding!
        (#5): I said Venus! Venus!     (#3): 10, 9, 8, 7 -- Oops!
            (#2): It wasn't G-forces that killed that monkey!
                  and (#1): Gee - It tasted like Tang!

From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 18:30:32 GMT
Subject: Re: Adding iron (Was Re: Laterite -- Overdose?)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria

What brand of laterite did you buy?  Sounds like it's a brand to 
shy away from.  We tend to stir up [Dupla] laterite when we uproot 
plants and it settles out within a minute or two.  And we have plenty
of water circulation. 

But you have all heard this before, haven't you? 

-------
George
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com (K.C.Wong)
Subject: Re: Could someone clarify a FAQ statement
Reply-To: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 16:55:45 GMT

In article 29919@cs.ucla.edu, frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
>Rick Krause (rickkr@microsoft.com) wrote:
>: One of the FAQ articles stated that a technique for acclimating
>: new fish it to put them and their water in a bucket and "establish
>: a siphon with a piece of airline tubing with airstones at either
>: end".  I need some clarification on this.
>: 
>: <1> Does "airstones at either end" mean to put an airstone at one
>: of the ends, or to put stones on both ends?
>
>It means put the airstone at one end, but it doesn't matter which.
>The idea is to slowly drip aquarium water into the bucket, giving
>the new arrival time to acclimate.  The airstone simply reduces the
>water flow.
> 
>: <2> How would you start a siphon like this?
>
>Suck.

Yup, on the end WITH the airstone.

>
>--
>"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
>freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love
>
>Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier

-- KC	kcwong@ssd.kodak.com






Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed)
Subject: Re: Tank Decor, was Re: Single Species Tanks
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 07:59:49 EDT

In article <1992Oct14.051258.5355@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>In article <1992Oct13.084823.14519@newstand.syr.edu> jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed) writes:
>>graceful goldfish
>
>Yeah.  Right.   And a painting of Elvis on velvet as a background for it
>all.  Don't forget the blinking electric lights.
>-- 
>Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path

ooooo, Oleg, I didn't even think of that! Not really an elvis fan, but how about
Mick Jagger, with glow-in-the-dark lips, on velvet, and those nifty new
lights that chase each other around? Wonder if it'd make the fish neurotic?


J. Reed
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Dynamic Aquaria by W.H. Adey
Date: 7 Oct 92 20:09:02 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Oct7.033503.22580@gbrmpa.gov.au> jamieo@gbrmpa.gov.au (Jamie Oliver) writes:
->Fish do very well in the aquarium (I understand) but corals are
->definately a problem.  Most corals eventually die, although this
->takes 6-12 months.   Some corals (particularly fleshy massives) do 
->pretty well and the Hydorzoan coral Millepora has been observed to 
->grow quite rapidly and increase its area of coverage several fold before
->eventually dying (probably due to temperature stress in the summer).
->The problem with coral mortality is severe enough that the collection of
->Acropora corals is now scaled down to a minimal level.

 By 'temperature stress in summer' are you stating that the aquaria is not
thermally controlled and gets just as hot as the GBR gets during peak sum-
mer months ? Have you looked into 'coral bleaching' due to temperatures
greater then 84 degrees F. The effects from summer temperature stress might
be more detrimental to coral health due to the closed nature of the system.
 Its also possible that corals might be having respiratory problems due
to lack of water current. How do you generate a good water flow in such a
large aquaria ?
 Those are two problems which might not be caused by the scrubber. The other
problems you have stated are centered around the algae scrubber filtration
system and whether it is adequate for such a large aquaria. You might want
to try a large skimmer just to see how much foam is generated. My reef now
generates about the exact same amount of brown water every day unless a 
coral spawns. This is why I might add a second venturi skimmer to the reef,
to handle the dynamic peaks of foam fractionation needs. 

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ron@minnow.sp.unisys.com (Ron Burns)
Subject: [M][R] Anemonies from hell, revisited!
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Reply-To: ron@minnow.UUCP (Ron Burns)
Organization: Unisys Corporation
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:23:39 GMT

Okay, after my posting about the anemonies in my 10 gallon fish/invert tank
I got several responses (posted and emailed).  The all had to do with the
idea that these anemonies are a nuisance and are not to be encouraged.
One respondant said that they had over 500 in a tank, another said
380.  That's taking up some pretty significant real estate in a tank!

At a local Pet Shop (A World of Fish) yesterday, I spotted one of the
critters in one of their tanks. 
"Look at that thing," I said.  "I have lots of 
those in my tank, and they are multiplying!  How do I kill them?"
GASP!
DON'T KILL THEM!  THEY ARE GOOD FOR THE WATER!  Bring them in to us, if you
don't want them!

Oh, sure, and then dozens of unsuspecting local aquarists who will be 
thinking that they got a good deal 'cause the (whatever) they bought
had a cute little anemonie on it, too, will have their tanks infested.

I had kids hanging on my arm, and clownfish in a bag and couldn't hang 
around to get much more info than that.  So I thought about it.
My original posting on the subject was what, about a month ago? 6 weeks?
Since that time I have ceased feeding the monsters deliberately.  I have
gone to feeding the fish in the tank every other day.  The monsters have 
increased in number by 50%.  There are now 15 of them.  They are growing
and multiplying without my feeding them.  Therefore, they are getting
their nutrition elsewhere.  Possibly from nutrients in the water.  Any
critter removing organics from the water before it becomes ammonia can't
be all bad, can it?  Biological Protein Skimmers!  In a case like that,
I guess they would be good for the water.

Now I am once again uncertain.  Do I want to risk introducing these 
things into the 100 gallon reef-in-development?  Will I be forever sorry
if I do?

-Ron

-- 
Ron Burns                                               ...!rosevax!minnow!ron
Unisys Corporation, CIM Dept.                 minnow%ron@rosevax.rosemount.com
Phone:(612)635-6927           or possibly     minnow!ron@rosevax.rosemount.com
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Could someone clarify a FAQ statement
Date: 8 Oct 92 20:11:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1992Oct8.201127.14918
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct8.165545.927@pixel.kodak.com> kcwong@ssd.kodak.com writes:
>In article 29919@cs.ucla.edu, frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier) writes:
>>: <2> How would you start a siphon like this?
>>Suck.
>Yup, on the end WITH the airstone.

I have not been using the air stones as a valve substitute in ages.  

What I do these days is use a cheapy plastic air valve to adjust the
drip rate.  I have a 12-16" piece of rigid tubing at one end, then 3-4'
of flex air tubing, the the valve, then 6-12" more of flex tubing and
reminate the whole affair with a 3-6" piece of rigid tubing.

I use plastic-coated clamps (bought a dozen for under $2 at Cost Plus) to
attach the hose at either end, or hold it in place with the tank cover
(rigid tubing will not compress and cut the flow) and let the water drip in
at a very slow rate (.25-1 gal/hr).  I use an air stone at the intake end if
I think I need to worry about peat dust clogging the valve or have to be
careful about young fry getting themselves stuck in the tube.

I have not lost a single new fish to the pH/temperature/salinity shock since
I started using this method 4 years ago and I have been buying on the
average 4-6 fish a month during these years (that's how you get to have
50+ fish tanks -- no self control at all).

NOTE: I use the same system to do water changes in my tanks.  I siphon
the water out pretty fast and then drip the new water over a period of
an hour or longer.  This makes the water changes far less traumatic to
the fish.  This is not necessary with the hardy fish or if the
replacement water is of the same chemistry and temperature as the tank
water (which is the case when you have unheated tanks and do very
frequent water water changes).  The few times I accidentally neglected
to do the slow drip water change for the more sensitive fish, I had
losses.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: mwerling@snoopy.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (DIY) Wet/Dry info wanted
Date: 13 Oct 92 20:16:13 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

In thinking about making my own wet/dry filter, I was wondering if there
was any ratio or rule of thumb to use when figuring the size of the sump.
This is my first try at this, so be gentle...

Thanks in advance,
Mike
--------------------------------------------------------------------
| Mike Werling, Student Assistant |  email:mwerling@umd5.umd.edu   |
| AT&T Teaching Theater		  |  phone: (301)403-4620          |
| Computer Science Center         |--------------------------------|
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| College Park, Md 20742-2411	  |                                |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Tank Decor, was Re: Single Species Tanks
Date: 17 Oct 92 02:58:33 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct15.075949.28105@newstand.syr.edu> jareed@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Judith Ann Reed) writes:
>Mick Jagger, with glow-in-the-dark lips, on velvet, and those nifty new
>lights that chase each other around? Wonder if it'd make the fish neurotic?

But will it be tacky enough?
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston)
Subject: Re: (DIY) Wet/Dry info wanted
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 23:44:04 GMT

Michael T. Werling (mwerling@snoopy.umd.edu) wrote:
: In thinking about making my own wet/dry filter, I was wondering if there
: was any ratio or rule of thumb to use when figuring the size of the sump.
: This is my first try at this, so be gentle...

Probably the biggest consideration here is the amount of water that
will drain into the sump if your pump should fail.  When the power
goes, the water will continue to drain until it's below the level of
your skimmer cup (if this is how your pre-filter works) and until
any other siphon from the tank to sump is broken.  Your sump must
be able to accept this much water on top of the normal level you
will maintain in the sump.

You can calculate this volume by measuring the distance from the
level you'll keep the tank water at, to the lowest your pre-filter
and other potential siphons can drain it to.  Multipy this times
the area of surface and you will know how many cubic inches of water
you must accomidate below.

Next, decide what 'footprint' of sump you can accomidate.  This
means the area it will take on wherever you're going to put it.  Now,
decide what level you'll maintain the sump water level at.  If you'll
be using a power-head, you'll need to assure that it's submerged
enough to not get air in there.  The same thing applies to an
external pump with bulkhead fitting.

Now, make sure there will be enough cubic inches left in the sump
to accomidate all those cubic inches from above.

I will now list some other considerations I had to make, but rem-
ember, the above is the most important.

* If you want to keep your heater (a good idea) in the sump, plan
  on space for it.
* You'll want good circulation around your heater.  Shouldn't be
  much of a problem in a sump.
* The more water you can maintain in your sump, the less likely
  you are to run your pump dry.  (READ: the less often you must
  add water)  If you can add extra when you'll be gone for a week
  or so, you won't have to worry about it.
* Consider noise.  My sump has a lid, as does the trickle tower.
  The only noise comes from the pre-filter.  I've still got to
  tweak that one a bit.

Now the much dreaded, though inevitable, opinion:

* IMHO if you spend more than $10 making the sump and trickle tower,
  you've spent more than you needed to.  Of coarse after being so
  economical, I turned around and bought a $75 pump and $40 worth
  of bio-media.  Figure that one out!

Go for it.  You can make a wet/dry that is every bit as good, and
even better for your circumstances, than you can buy in the store,
and do it for much less.  Good luck!

-- 
Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
322 North  2200 West,   D1V03  |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
Salt Lake City, UT   84116     |  E-Mail  livings@unislc.slc.unisys.com
From: booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth)
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 18:38:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Amiricle W/D filter any good?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: (F) Peat
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 18:50:20 GMT

In article <7037@transfer.stratus.com> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>from cold water tap in my kitchen. It has an inline filtration setup which  
>removes particles 5 microns or larger from the water. The water here in Phoenix
>tastes bogus, which is why I put it on in the first place. Can I assume that  
>this water is of good quality for my fish? 

I wouldn't.  5 micron filter will remove the particulates, but it's not an
RO membrane, so it will not do all that much to get rid of the salts that
make the water taste bad.  Your water is probably very alkaline and very
hard, so an RO filter may be a better idea.   If the chlorination and 
chloramination are responsible for bad water taste, adding an activated
carbon in-line filter before the RO and right after the micron filter will
help lengthen the life of the RO membrane and improve the removal of
odour-causing compounds.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Tank Decor, was Re: Single Species Tanks
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 07:56:25 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.202149.13847@kbsw1> chris@kbsw3.UUCP (Chris Kostanick 806 1044) writes:
>Well, I'm really ashamed to admit this, but I'm very partial to
>the bubbling treasure chest. In fact, I was thinking about having
>an office tank with RED gravel, bubbling treasure chest, fluro lights
>and NO FISH OR PLANTS at all.

No fish food, no water changes, no break-in period, minimal maintenance.
And a mechanical, battery-powered fish to swim in it like in "Red Dwarf".

A definite conversation piece.  
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Dynamic Aquaria by W.H. Adey
Distribution: world
Date: 14 Oct 92 18:29:20 EDT
Organization: The QuBE BBS

In a message dated Wed 13 Oct 92  5:47, Fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (greg S
wrote:

 FS> We haven't seen the tape.  The system that all this is based on was
 FS> not 
 FS> all that successful.  (The Smithsonian reef system)  I  would like to
 FS> keep an open mind on the subject of algal filtration.  But, based on
 FS> what
 FS> I have heard about the Smithsonian Reef it was not all that
 FS> successful and
 FS> many home tanks are much more successful, especially when you
 FS> consider that
 FS> we are dealing with a much smaller body of water and don't have the
 FS> resources
 FS> that they did.  

 FS> How did you get hold of the tape?  I would like to see it also.

 FS> Greg Smith
Yes, I've been hearing negative things about the smithsonian reef tank and
I do believe they are true. I am hoping that it because of the poor 
maintenence by the staff and not due to the method used. That still has to
be proven empiricaly. The tape, however, shows a large system which is
completly under his control in his own greenhouse, as well as a 120 gallon
system in his living room. These are doing very well as seen in the tape.

Unfortunatly, the tape was made buy Adey for a consulting friend of mine
and is not generally available. 

-- Via DLG Pro v0.992

Richard Brosseau
From home via flatline@qube.ocunix.on.ca
From: erik@marge.phys.washington.edu (Erik D. Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Boret Heaters
Date: 9 Oct 92 17:29:30 GMT
Organization: Cosmic Ray Labratory, University of Washington

cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns) writes
> dphantom@triton.unm.edu (darlene an >92sep02 lawry) wrote 
>> Actually, that's not quite true...there are some hazards to using an
>> overrated heater.
>> 
>> 1)  It outputs more heat at one time, which for a very small tank, can
>> be a little stressful on the fish.  Relatively minor point in most cases,
>> but radical temperature changes are generally not a good thing to subject
>> fish to.
>> 
>I disagree.  If the water is well circulated, the temperature should not
>change so much so fast as to be a stress to the fish.  Even with poor
>circulation, I don't think the temperature changes would be "radical".

Nope, she's right.  It has to do with the hysteresis of the heater in 
question.  I used a 250 watt Ebo-Jaeger heater in a 20g (it was an
emergency), and it has a several minute response time to temperature changes.
This is benificial on the optimal size tank, but on one that is too small
(like mine) it caused a temperature that varied between 74 and 80 (I checked 
it with a digital tracking thermometer).  Now I have a 150 watter on it, and
the temp is 76-78, always.

>Seems to me that if any heater goes bad your fish are toast....If a heater
>produces enough heat to maintain a warm tank temp when its operating
>properly, then if it sticks, it can toast your fish.

Only partly true... If you NOTICE it's stuck, you have a lot more lag
time to do something about it with a smaller heater.  Again, I had this 
happen to me (luckily, with a 150 watt heater on a 20g).  I caught it when 
the temp hit 88 or so.  Had this been the 250 watt unit, it would have 
completely fried them by the time I noticed.  As it was, I saved most of the 
fish.

  Erik
---
Erik D. Olson				erik@marge.phys.washington.edu
UW Cosmic Ray Laboratory		     olson@phys.washington.edu

       "This is the spawning of the cage and aquarium" - TMBG
From: terry@gtm-inc.com (Terry Gerritsen)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: New Tank
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 06:04:11 EDT
Reply-To: terry@gtm-inc.com (Terry Gerritsen)
Distribution: na
Organization: G.T.M. Incorporated, Kingston, ON (613) 546-3078
Content-Type: Text

I purchased a 35 gal tank about 6 weeks ago for a week and half I let
the cycle begin, I then added 2 blue, 2 yellowtail, 2 stripe damsels.
Everything was running okay, the cycle was going through the process as
explained, when the level of nitrite and ammonia reached the highest I 
noticed that the yellowtails were not as active. 
Then the blues, and the stripes kept attacking them until finally they
died. Now did they die from the level of nitrite and ammonia being to high
or from the constent attacks they encountered.
Also red algea is forming all over.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Terry Gerritsen         |  G.T.M. Incorporated              (613) 384 0162
terry@gtm-inc.com       |  Kingston, Ontario           Fax: (613) 389 4594
                      "Transportation is our business"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: scullyl@prism.cs.orst.edu (Lyle Scully)
Subject: (F) Need info on Severums and Gouramis
Reply-To: scullyl@prism.cs.orst.edu
Organization: Oregon State University
Distribution: rec.quaria
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 06:07:56 GMT


I have two Green Severums (I think the scientific name for them is
Cichlasoma severum. At least that is the one that looks the most like
them). What I was wonderis is if anyone could give me any info on this
species and other severums. Would like to know how big they could get,
breeding habits, how to tell male from female. 

I also have Gouramis. I have a 3-spot, paradise, gold, pearl, and a
giant. Trying to find out any others there might be and which are hard
to get and which are fairly common. Also do most gouramis get to be
4-6 inches in size or are there bigger ones?

Thanks for any help anyone can give me.

Lyle
--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+  Lyle Scully                 +   What is left when honor is lost?   +      
+  scullyl@prism.cs.orst.edu   +         -- Publilius Syrus           +   
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria