HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Jay Kopycinski)
Subject: Re: *** Orion Subwooferpaire 8 only $60 ***
Organization: Motorola
Date: 8 Jan 1993 08:44:59 MST

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 04:02:44 CST
From: Noel B. Lorenzana <U38134@uicvm.uic.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: *** Orion Subwooferpaire 8 only $60 ***

I've given up on car audio and am letting some stuff go. First we
have a brand 'spanking' new pair of Orion 8" subs. These have never
been used. I beleive they are the XTR series. I bought them at a
Highland superstores liquidation sale. They sound great and look
great except that one speaker is missing a dust cover. I paid $75
for the pair so I estimate that $60 is fair. BTW does anyone know
how much it costs to mail subwoofers??? They're pretty heavy.

Thanks
Noel.

ps. I'll take the best offer over $50. fair enough.



PLEASE POST A PHONE NUMBER FOR CONTACT.  THNAK YOU........Jay



Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: worley@a.cs.okstate.edu (WORLEY LAWRENCE JA)
Subject: Re: to amp or not to amp?
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 04:21:36 GMT

From article <1ifcoaINNnie@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, by elef@smarmy.Eng.Sun.COM (elaine 'beano' leffler):
> thanks for all the info on detachable faceplate technology - i've 
> decided to buy the pioneer DEH680 in-dash CD unit.  now i find (bear
> with me if this sounds like nonsense, i'm one of the Stereo Impaired)
> that this player has a built-in 2 channel amp, but the car i'm putting
> it into is equipped with 4 speakers.  according to the people at circuit
> city (surprisingly low bulls**t level, it SEEMS) i can either do the
> factory-correct install and buy an external amp to enable me to use
> all 4 speakers, or they can do some fancy wiring footwork and wire
> the stereo to 4 speakers.  in this case, i'd lose the functionality of 
> either the fader or balance control (i can do without the balance 
> and not lose any sleep over it).  i'm wondering what the catch is - 

There is no catch.  That particular Pioneer unit (and most Pioneer units, for
that matter) have only a two channel amp built in.  That is, they can only
directly power two different *channels*.  Notice, I did not say *speakers*.
The "fancy wiring" is nothing fancy at all.  They are just going to wire your
four factory speakers in parallel or in series (just the routing of the
physical connections between the speakers and the "amp" in the Pioneer).  This
will make the Pioneer "think" that there is only two speakers hooked to it,
when in fact there is four.  The fader control (front/rear) only fades between
the powered "amp" speaker outputs and the RCA line-level outputs (where you
would hook up the amp if you bought one).  That's why if you buy an amp,
you will be able to control the loudness of the music in a front to rear
ratio.   

Bottom line:  You can use the Pioneer unit with no external amp on the rear 
speakers.  The only thing you will lose (besides being able to play louder,
and perhaps better sound quality) is the ability to control the relative 
front/rear speaker volumes.  You should ask the installer to "balance" the
front/rear level using power resistors when he/she installs it.  This will
avoid any gross mis-match of speaker output (like the fronts being way too
loud compared to the back).

If you buy an amp, the fader control will allow you to adjust the loudness
from front to rear as you please, and also give you better bass response  
(due to the increased power available to the rear speakers), and the 
system will play louder overall as a result.

-Jason Worley

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: Kuyper@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Ed Kuyper)
Subject: honda stock rodio
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: Northwestern University
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:04:05 GMT

In our 88' Accord LXi we have the factory issue sterio. It is suprisingly
nice accept we have a problem with it. When it plays tapes it is fine, but
when it is in radio mode it seems to be shorting out. Initially it works
just fine, but when I hit a bump in the road the sound will cut off and the
display starts to flash. Sometimes it is able to regain control but the
more times it goes out of control the more sensitive it becomes. Eventually
it shuts off for good. If I pull out the unit (with the wires still
attached) and then disconnect the antenna the problem stops. However
without the antenna there is no reception. I would appreciate and idea as
to the problem here. Thanks.

                                   -ed
From: rkb6116@zeus.tamu.edu (MR. WEATHER)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: questions about dual voice coil subwoofers
Date: 12 Jan 1993 21:03 CST
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: zeus.tamu.edu
Keywords: question subwoofer dual voice coils
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

Mark Hall writes...
>Billy Barr writes:
>>NOTE:  It is not recommended that you run the coils in stereo.  i.e. The
>>left channel output of the amp to one coil and the right to the other.
>>This could make the woofer sound bad.  This recommendation comes from
>>the people at Classic Car Sounds in Tucson Arizona.
> 
>   Then what is a dual voice coil speaker for? 

Many crossovers have a switch that let you switch the low frequencies into 
a mono signal, so you can still wire two unbridged channels from the amp,
and have a mono signal.

Mr. Weather <> aka Ken Blair <> rkb6116@zeus.tamu.edu <> Aggieland USA
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:59:00 GMT
Subject: Re: Am I going deaf?
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

Get a RadioShack Sound Pressure Level Meter RIGHT NOW!  If you think you
are going deaf, the $30 is a TRIVIAL investment.  It comes with
scales that tell what levels of music are safe to listen to for a
given period of time.  Use it.

Kirk out
From: elef@smarmy.Eng.Sun.COM (elaine 'beano' leffler)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: detachable faceplate - effective or gimmick?
Date: 5 Jan 1993 01:44:23 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: elef@smarmy.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: smarmy.eng.sun.com
Keywords: FAQ U?


sorry if this is a FAQ, but i don't read this group on a regular basis.
i'm looking into purchasing a CD player for my new car, and am 
wondering how effective a theft deterrent the detachable faceplates
are.   i know i would get lazy with a pull-out stereo unit, and either
leave it in, or leave it under the seat in the car, so i don't want to 
get one of those, but i think i could get into the habit of removing
the faceplate and carrying it with me (it fits in my purse!).  pioneer
seems to charge about $100 just for the addition of the detachable
faceplate, and i'm wondering if it's worth the extra money, or if it's
just another false-security gimmick.  i have no doubt that if someone
really wants to steal my stereo they'll be able to get at it with little
trouble (if they're good), but i'd like to do what i can to lessen the
chance of theft.

looking forward to KEEPING my first car CD player,

elef


  **...........................................................**
     Elaine 'beano' Leffler	SunConnect Customer Advocate
     elef@smarmy.Eng.Sun.Com	       (415) 336-5142
  **...........................................................**

    your sweet little cupcake, baked with the batter from HELL....

   "...technology marches on - and makes 150-mph motorcycles for
    15-mph beginners' brains."	_motorcyclist_
From: foo@netcom.com (Mark Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: questions about dual voice coil subwoofers
Keywords: question subwoofer dual voice coil
Date: 13 Jan 93 00:31:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1993Jan13.003106.10254
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)

In article <1993Jan12.202544.8219@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> billy@bigdog.engr.arizona.edu (Billy Barr) writes:
)NOTE:  It is not recommended that you run the coils in stereo.  i.e. The
)left channel output of the amp to one coil and the right to the other.
)This could make the woofer sound bad.  This recommendation comes from
)the people at Classic Car Sounds in Tucson Arizona.

   Then what is a dual voice coil speaker for? 

  - mark
From: Kuyper@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Ed Kuyper)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Speaker crackle
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:18:52 GMT
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: Northwestern University

I have a 89 Jeep YJ with a pull out Kenwood sterio. Since I am restricted
to 4X6 speakers it quite treblelly but thats not problem. Due to the wind
noise and my lust for loud music I need to turn the radio up pretty high to
get satisfaction. The speakers crackle but it isn't due to the speaker
magnet bottoming out (I think). The root of the problem seem to be these
electrolytic capacitors on the speaker lines. I didn't put them there, they
were initially used in conjunction with a Kicker. I dont want to get a
kicker but there is some funky wiring going on down there with the ELC's. I
am wondering if I should just bypass the whole capaciter garbage. I would
also appreciate knowing what the purpose of these capacitors is. I know
electronics so feel free to go into detail. Thanks for your help


                                         -ed
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: adcec@westminster.ac.uk (Paul Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Loss of Treble
Date: 11 Jan 93 13:43:33 GMT
Organization: University of Westminster

I have a Roadstar Radio/tape player.. can't remember the number for now,
anyway, when playing tapes I usually don't get any treble from the left
hand side, on either side of the tape ( it is an auto-reverse player)
I also reciently got a hi-fi deck with the same problem..

is the problem as i think, something to do with the mechanism rather 
then with the heads ... they can't all we knackered.

anyone else got this problem???
i think it is fairly common.. what is the solution???


Thanks in advance...Paul
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine)
Subject: Possible Reason for Hot CD's
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:49:31 GMT

Just wondering -

  Do those of you who have problems with in-dash CD units use the head-unit's
amplification?  I suspect that some of the thermal problems result of the
demands placed on the unit's amplifiers.

  To test my half-baked theory, run your CD player for 15 minutes will the
volume turned right down.  Check the disc's temperature.  Run the unit for
15 minutes at your normal listening level, and check the temperature.

  If the system runs "acceptably cool" at no volume, you need an external
amp.  The price of an amplifier comparible to the one in your head unit
should be $50-$100.

  If the system never runs acceptably cool, perhaps you should look into a
different unit.  And write a nasty letter to the manufacturer.

  - Cal

PS:  It was minus 30 degrees Celcius here last night.  Maybe I should look
into one of those spaceheater/CD player units!

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  - Cal Demaine                   | "You shot him in the back!"                 
    (demaine@bode.ee.ualberta.ca) |    "His back was to me!"  - El Diablo    
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: C-D players
Date: 6 Jan 93 13:28:57 GMT
Distribution: world,local
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1993Jan5.110730.62466@cc.usu.edu> slgyp@cc.usu.edu (Doran L. Barton) writes:
>In article <4JAN93093103@pyros.hacks.arizona.edu>, faanhuan@pyros.hacks.arizona.edu (Faan Liu) writes:
>> I am looking into getting an in dash C-D player for my 1987 Honda Accord.  I am
>> looking to spend around $400 dollars, but many things are on sale now, so
>> anything close to that will do.  I am considering the following: Kenwood 67R,
>> Sony 5180, Pioneer DEH-680 and the Blaupunkt Miami.  Does anyone have any other
>> suggestions or comments on the units I have mentioned?  Any information will be
>> helpful.  Please E-Mail to the following address:
>
>        Based on my previous experience and that of others that I have
>        talked to, I would actually advise against getting an in-dash
                    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^    

Why?


I have an in-dash Denon CD player, and given the opportunity i wouldn't
exchange it for a multi disk player.


                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------

Organization: Doctoral student, Psychology, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Date: Tue,  5 Jan 1993 10:38:18 -0500 
From: Steven Ritter <sr0o+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: CD players

I just got a Pioneer DEH680 last week. It works great (although, as
someone mentioned, the CDs get pretty hot). You need a separate amp if
you want to hook up four speakers, though.

If you're concerned about price (and are going to install it yourself),
consider getting it mail-order from a discount electronics place in New
York. I got mine at 33rd Street electronics for $319 (as compared to the
discount price of $399 everywhere else). If you want to pay with a
credit card, the price goes up (to, I think, $359). If 33rd Street
doesn't have it, try Uncle's Stereo or 6th Avenue Electronics. All of
these advertise every week in the Sunday NY Times (I'm pretty sure the
national edition carries the ads) or call NYC information (212) for the
number.

Good luck

Steve


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: demaine@ee.ualberta.ca (Cal Demaine)
Subject: Re: Sliding Door Speaker Installation
Organization: University Of Alberta, Edmonton Canada
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 07:41:56 GMT

>From article <Greg_Kaisen.5.726350640@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU>, by Greg_Kaisen@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU (Greg Kaisen):
>> I need some help in the form of a creative solution for installing 
>> speakers (subwoofers in my case to avoid having to use a box or tube) in the 
>> sliding side door of my '92 minivan.  I can't see using conventional speaker 
>> wire for this, as the travel of the door will eventually wear out the 
>> speaker wire.  What I envision is some sort of contact that engages as the 
>  

Don't write off wire yet.  I'm not familiar with your vehicle, but if you
were to try and employ some very flexible wire meant for repeated movement,
it may work Ok.

The wire used for high-quality multimeter leads can be purchased cheaply,
has great quantities of insulation on it, and is very flexible.  You may
wish to check it out for your application.

(I admit it's not Monster Cable M1000, but oh well.)

   - Cal

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  - Cal Demaine                   | "You shot him in the back!"                 
    (demaine@bode.ee.ualberta.ca) |    "His back was to me!"  - El Diablo    
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: Sliding Door Speaker Installation
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:24:15 GMT

In article <Greg_Kaisen.5.726350640@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU>, Greg_Kaisen@QM.CIS.YALE.EDU (Greg Kaisen) writes:
|> I need some help in the form of a creative solution for installing 
|> speakers (subwoofers in my case to avoid having to use a box or tube) in the 
|> sliding side door ... What I envision is some sort of contact that engages as the 
|> door is shut.  I imagine this contact would have to be weatherproof as well 
|> as very durable.  Can anyone imagine this working?

   Sure!  Sound's like a good idea.

|> Can you think of a connector suitable for this?

   It would probably be easiest to put the connector in the front of
the door where the latch mechanism is since this area probably engages
and disengages from the car body in a parallel manner (if not, find
another place where the door moves to and from the body without any
wiggles or irregular movements).  Banana plugs might work.  There may
also be a connector that requires even less precision to make the 
connection.  I would put the positive and negative connectors as far
apart on the door as possible so that there is little, if any, chance
that something will short circuit the channel when the door is open.

|> I think if I do pull this off, my only concern 
|> would be the load on the amp; as the door is opened, there will be no load 
|> on the outputs, would this cause any harm?

   Having "no load" on the amp is nothing to worry about (in fact, however,
you will have an "infinite" resistance when the door is open, not "no load").
The only thing that may be a concern is making and breaking the circuit 
to the speaker while the amp is powering it.  This could cause problems for
the amp and/or the speaker depending on how and when the circuit gets
broken or connected.  If you want to make the install truly safe, you could
have another connection which turns the amp off when the door is opened so
that the breaking of the contact to the speaker is not an issue - maybe a
toggle switch or a mercury switch which makes and breaks the remote turn on
lead to the amp.

   This is a lot of work to avoid a hard-wired connection.  Are you 
POSITIVE that there's no way to hard wire the speaker wires?

let us know if you pull this off,
-- Tim
From: linley@netcom.com (Bruce James Robrert Linley)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: questions about dual voice coil subwoofers
Keywords: question subwoofer dual voice coil
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:44:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1993Jan12.174440.26701
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, UCLA

In a previous article brian@hopi.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry) spake...
>In article <1993Jan10.211543.19261@netcom.com>, linley@netcom.com (Bruce James Robrert Linley) writes:
>|> In a previous article scott@cwis.unomaha.edu (Scott Ames) spake...
>|> >
>|> >I have a couple of questions about single vs. dual voice coil subwoofers.  I
>|> >understand that dual voice coil subwoofers can reproduce both channels of a
>|> >stereo signal where-as single voice coil subs can only reproduce a mono signal
>|> >or one channel of a stereo signal.  What I am wondering is can a dual voice
>|> >coil subwoofer be wired to reproduce only one channel and then use another
>|> >dual voice coil sub to reproduce the other channel?  What I am thinking about
>|> >is getting one dual voice coil sub now and then getting another latter.
>|> 
>|> Bad idea. When you use the two coils together, the overall sensitivity of the
>|> speaker goes down by about 10dB. Better to wait until you can get 2 single
>|> voice coil subwoofers.
>
>This is REALLY surprising to me.  Why does the sensitivity go down by
>10 dB?  I've used dual voice coil subwoofers several times and I've 
>never experienced this reduction in sensitivity.  Can you provide some
>explaination for your claim?
>
>			Brian L. Gentry
>		   (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)

Sorry, I can't explain the physics of it, though it probably has something
to do with inductance between the two coils. What I do remember is reading
the spec sheets for the subwoofers (single vs. combined). The Radio Shack
catalog comes to mind here. Anyway, the specs listed the sensitivity as 
somewhere around 95 dB for each coil vs. 86 dB combined. Is it noticeable for
such low freqs? Maybe not. Anyone wanna take this further?
-- 
Bruce James Robert Linley | "Any relationships established by marriage are not
Comp Sci & Engr, UCLA     |  treated as ended by divorce or death."
<linley@netcom.com>       |
<linley@seas.ucla.edu>    |  from page 18 of the 1992, 1040A tax booklet.
From: atvu@dpeipc1.radsci.UCI.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: need some adviser for a cd!
Date: 9 Jan 93 02:39:49 GMT

Hi folks!!
I read a local ads in the newspaper, there is a cd with the brand name
" Targa", it is sold around $219, 8x oversampling, am/fm...etc..
does anyone have any experience about this brand name, please post it
on the net!!
thanks in advance!
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: cmermag@eng.umd.edu (Christopher Mermagen)
Subject: Thanks for info & question on seperates
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 19:35:36 GMT
Organization: Project GLUE, University of Maryland, College Park

I would just like to send thanks to all those who gave suggestions
on a cassette deck & disc changer.. I ended up purchase the Sony
XR-U330 head unit and the CDX-300 10 disc changer. Both have the
unilink system, which enables labelling of the discs on the head
unit's display, and it can remember up to 110 titles. I am very
happy with the system - I also put some Infinity Kappa 6x9's into
the rear deck of my car, and they are incredible sounding.. now,


Now, I need to put some seperates into the front.. I am looking for
a 5" woofer and 1" tweeter combo.. any ideas.. I am thinking either
the Polk mm?? or Boston Pro 5.2s or something along those lines. 
Thanks again..

Chris

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: worley@a.cs.okstate.edu (WORLEY LAWRENCE JA)
Subject: Re: Car Alarms
Organization: Oklahoma State University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 18:17:03 GMT

From article <7774@dove.nist.gov>, by keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys):
> I am seriously considering buying a new alarm for my car.  My current
> alarm a Kenwood KPC-31, has become unreliable to the point where
> i don't have any confidence that it will protect my car.
> 
> First the light flashing feature, went screwy, now the siren has
> decided to die!
> 
> I figure that most of the readers of this newsgroup probably have alarm
> systems since they spend a lot of money on their car audio systems 
> (myself included).
> 
> Which alarm is used by most car audio enthusiast?  It seems that when it
> comes to amps, headunits, and speakers name brands make a difference. Does
> the same hold true for alarms?
> 
> I am intrested in an alarm that will include:
> 
> 	door,trunk and hood protection (pin switches)
> 	glass break detection
> 	shock sensor
> 	ignition kill
> 	light flashing
> 	soft chirp, and possibly locking/unlocking doors 
> 
> I am currently researching the Alpine 8040.  Any other suggestions?
> 

This is an excellent alarm system.  You might also look into the high-end
Clifford systems.  I have sold/installed approx. 50 8040's since they were
introduced in 1991, and have had good success with them.  Make sure your
Alpine dealer has installed several, and personally, I would insist on
soldered connections.  Have you considered a backup-battery?  They usually
only cost around $60 or so, including charger, also, depending upon what
type of vehicle you have, you might consider a hood-lock instead, although
they are a little more expensive ($100-120).

-Jason