HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com (Duan-Shin Lee)
Subject: A question about aperture priority
Organization: C&C Research Labs, NEC USA, Princeton, N.J.
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 16:37:50 GMT

Hi,
I have a question about aperture priority for all
knowledgeable readers of this group out there.
When photographing a night scene using aperture
priority (say using f8), usually the shutter speed
required is too slow that it is out of the range of
the speeds that the speed dial provides (a typical
camera, for example Nikon F3 provides up to 8 sec).
So the meter of the camera shows underexposure.
A way to determine the proper exposure MANUALLY,
is to change the film speed setting to a high
speed until the camera meter shows proper exposure
(let's ignore the reciprocity failure here).
Then reset the film speed and compute the correct
shutter speed and use the bulb setting (the exposure
can be a few minutes).  My question: are cameras
doing this computation automatically when they are
set to aperture priority? If not, how do they determine the
proper exposure for aperture priority?
 
The question is triggered by the cover picture of Outdoor
Photographer, Feb 1992 issue.  The picture was taken by
Galen Rowell with a Nikon F3 at dusk.  The picture shows
Cathedral Peak of Yosemite in the background and two pitched
camps in the foreground.  He set the compensation to +1 to
correct the reciprocity failure and set the camera to aperture
priority (with f5.6). The shutter remained open for about 
1 to 2 minutes.  During the exposure, he went into the 
camps and manually fires his SB16B flash so that the camps 
are bright and look like Chinese lantern.
 
If the computation that I describe in the first paragraph
is not employed in the camera, the only explanation (of
why the camera knows that 1-2 minutes are needed for this
scene) that I can think of is that the meter is much more
sensitive than the manufacturer has advertised.  But, by how much.
F5.6 and 30 sec of exposure corresponds to EV 0.  So
the meter should be at least sensitive down to EV -3.
Is there way that I can test the sensitivity of the meter?
 
Is this a stupid question?  Any answer is welcomed.
Thanks a lot.

-- 
Duan-Shin Lee
C & C Research Lab, NEC USA
Tel:(609)951-2456
lds@ccrl.nj.nec.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wiltz@after (David Wiltz)
Subject: Re: Opinions on SLRs - EOS or 3xi.
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 16:15:12 GMT

rct@fulcrum.co.uk (Richard Taylor) writes:

>I'm looking to purchase an SLR, after having used a friends manual SLR. I'm
>looking for the following features:
>	fast autofocus
>	simple use
>	relatively lightweight
>	medium price
>	
>It's most difficult task will be autosport shots (autofocus may not be fast
>enough for this? In which case I need to be able to override it.).

>It seems that a lot of cameras suit have these, and the two that I have
>noticed are the Canon EOS and Minolta 3xi.

>Would someone care to elucidate what differences there are, or are they so
>similar that it doesn't matter? Is there something better than these
>two, for the price?

Which EOS?

For the remainder, I'll assume that you mean the Rebel (1000, isn't it?),
since it is a price competitor with the 3xi.

If you want the focus speed, go with the Canon.  The focusing motors
are in the lenses which, although resulting in heavier lenses, allow
IMHO, for a quicker focusing than the Minolta.

In addition, the Rebel wiil come with built-in modes (like for sports)
which are alailable for the 3xi if you purchase additional expansion cards.
(Who want's to switch microchips every few shots?)

I also believe, although this may have changed in the last couple of
years, that the manual ring on some Minolta lenses is slightly
hard to get at.

Just a few suggestions, take them as you will.
-Dave

--
   David Wiltz                                wiltz@after.math.uiuc.edu
   Calculus&Mathematica Development Team
   University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign  NeXTmail always welcome!
-Doing business with the government is a lot like playing poker with God.-
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: Resolution of Lens ???
Reply-To: jchen@wind.UUCP (Jason Chen)
Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 18:31:59 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.170209.28061@mercury.cair.du.edu> troby@diana.cair.du.edu (Thorn Roby) writes:
>In article <1992Nov19.025409.2162@walter.bellcore.com> jchen@wind.UUCP (Jason Chen) writes:
>>However, I don't think 100 lp/mm is hard to achieve. With a good 
>>microscope (not those found in Toys'r Us), TMAX-100, and well saturated 
>>exposures, you should be able to resolve close to 125 lp/mm.
>>
>
>If by "well-saturated" you mean "normally exposed", this runs contrary
>to my experience. I find when viewing lens chart tests on B&W film on
>a microscope, I can read them most easily when I push the film a lot,
>resulting in maximum contrast.

No. That is not what I meant. To maximize the contrast on b&W films, 
you need to over expose a couple of stops.

Jason Chen
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hsieh1@carson.u.washington.edu (Darrell Kirk)
Subject: Wanted Nikon FM2
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 00:40:15 GMT

Wanted, Nikon FM2

E-mail me, or call (206)322-3510
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Back issues of Shutterbug-- Looking for a particular loupe.
Date: 21 Nov 1992 12:51:49 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


The Schneider 6x6 has, I believe 3X magnification and is primarily designed
for inspecting 120 6x6 images.  I use a Schneider for Sinar 4X loupe
which covers an entire 35mm frame..I mostly use it for focusing
my 4x5

brian

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
Subject: Re: Backwards lens compatibility (was Re: Big/fast EOS lens advice sought)
Originator: asanders@sparta
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:18:29 GMT

| I can use the latest Nikkor glass with my tough, lightweight,
| all mechanical FM-2. And, should I eventually get a newer body,
| the lens will still work. Canon users can't do this, which
| I think is a big minus.
				-Morgan Conrad

[Greetings, Morgan!]

Right you are. The ability to "mix and match" really IS a benefit.
There are MANY extremely useful AI and AIS Nikkors out there that
have no AF counterpart. Many of them, like the 200/4 Medical Nikkor,
may NEVER be available as AF lenses. It's great to be able to use
modern AF bodies without saying goodbye to all those great manual-
focus lenses. Even without AF capability, these cameras offer
many desirable features that set them apart from older (and equally
great in their own way) cameras like the FM-2.

				-Alan
From: annette@curtiss.seas.ucla.edu (Annette K. Nasif)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: imaging system needed
Date: 21 Nov 92 01:14:50 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: SEASnet, University of California, Los Angeles


     Hello, I am looking for any information about a kind of camera 
(still-life, not video) that can take a picture, digitalize it, and
then have it transmitted to a receiver.  A name of a manufacturer would
be especially helpful, but I would deeply appreciate any information
you may have.  Thank you very much!!       Annette
                                           annette@seas.ucla.edu

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: troby@diana.cair.du.edu (Thorn Roby)
Subject: Re: Resolution of Lens ???
Organization: University of Denver, Denver, Colorado
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 17:02:09 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.025409.2162@walter.bellcore.com> jchen@wind.UUCP (Jason Chen) writes:
>However, I don't think 100 lp/mm is hard to achieve. With a good 
>microscope (not those found in Toys'r Us), TMAX-100, and well saturated 
>exposures, you should be able to resolve close to 125 lp/mm.
>

If by "well-saturated" you mean "normally exposed", this runs contrary
to my experience. I find when viewing lens chart tests on B&W film on
a microscope, I can read them most easily when I push the film a lot,
resulting in maximum contrast. I'm currently shooting Tech Pan at 800
and developing for 12 minutes in HC110B, or FP4 at 3200 and developing
for 10 minutes in D19. The most common problem I've had is too much
exposure of the black bars causing them to run together with the white
separating region. Disclaimer: these film ratings are based on the
guide numbers of my Vivitar 283 flash, and I haven't checked them against
metered readings. 125 lp/mm for Tech Pan seems about right (now if 
I could just find a lens that would match it ...).

-- 

Thorn Roby                              troby@diana.cair.du.edu
CARL Systems, Inc.                               troby@carl.org   
3801 E. Florida Ave.,Suite D300,Denver, CO 80210 (303) 758-3030
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: Re: Nikon 20mm f2.8 AF--is it worth the price?
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 17:15:19 GMT


Regarding 20mm vs. 24mm lenses for Nikon, for those not committed
to AF, the Nikor 20mm f3.5 (with 52mm filter) is a superb lens and
can be found used for about $300.

-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: amakkawy@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (AbdelAziz Makkawy)
Subject: View Camera recommendations wanted
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1992 17:36:53 GMT

I am planning to buy a used Calumet 540 View Camera. I am new to the world
of view cameras and would like to try them for the great flexibility they
offer. I'd appreciate your input and recommendations regarding view cameras
in general and Calumet 540 in particular. If I get enough responses, I will
post them.
From: watters@darwin.genetics.washington.edu (Mike Watters)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: For Sale: Nikon F w/ finder & lens
Date: 22 Nov 92 21:36:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Nov22.213607.3206
Organization: University of Washington

For Sale:
	Two Nikon F's w/ FTn finders (meter's active) and lens.

	#1-
		Chrome Nikon F
		Photomic FTn finder
		43-86 f3.5 zoom

	#2-
		Black Nikon F
		Photomic FTn finder
		50mm f1.4
		AS-2 shoe
		AR-1 release

	$300 for either set-up.  E-mail for conditions.  Feel free to make 
        offers.

mike

--
Mike
watters@genetics.washington.edu
Dept of Genetics, Univ of Washington  Seattle
(d) 206-543-1934   (e) 206-361-1156
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: The color developer in the E-6 process
Date: 22 Nov 92 15:48:58 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

monta@image.mit.edu (Peter Monta) writes:
: 
: > (There is no way I'm going back to a formaldehyde-rich stabilizer
: > --- yeech!)
: 
: The Beseler kit had a formaldehyde-based stabilizer---does
: formaldehyde really have a stench?  It may be just me, but I didn't
: smell anything in particular.  Or is the "yeech" for the toxicity?

I was referring to the toxicity.  As far as I know, it does not have
a smell.

Jay Ts
From: parris@thunderbird.Berkeley.EDU (Colin Parris)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Mail Order houses...
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:53:53 GMT
Organization: /usr/local/lib/rn/organization
NNTP-Posting-Host: thunderbird.berkeley.edu


I'm new to the game of camera mail order and I'm seeking advice on the
best (i.e. most reliable and trustworthy) mail order companies and
the correct questions that I should ask when buying a camera by mail 
order. I am trying to order a Minolta Maxxum X5i and two minolta lenses
35-70 , 70-200 and am trying to get the best mail order deal. I have
looked at the various magazines and the large number of mail order 
companies and my worry about getting grey market goods is holding 
me back. It is my hope to compile the data gathered here and 
redistribute it for the benefit of all. Your help is greatly 
appreciated.

Colin Parris.
parris@tenet.ICSI.berkeley.edu
From: elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Why Black Corners on The Pictures?
Date: 23 Nov 92 18:59:23 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation, Santa Clara

In article <1ek3m7INNgh@zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu> yyh@osustat.mps.ohio-state.edu (Yu-Yun Ho) writes:
>
>I used Cokin vari-color filter + linear polarizer to give me the color
>I wanted for the pictures. I don't understand why the four corners
>of the pictures all turned out black. 
>(last time when I used vari-color+linear polarizer the results were great!.)
>Can anybody tell me why this is happening? My camera is a Pentax PZ-10.
> 
>Yuyun

I'm no expert, but I'll give this a shot.  if you use the A-series filters
and holder, you might run into vignetting at wide focal lengths (eg. 28mm
and wider).  at such a wide focal length, the filter/holder blocks part of
your frame, and you may not see it in the viewfinder which doesn't cover 100%
of the frame.  a P-series filter/holder might help.     

I don't know if you have a wide-tele zoom.  if you do, and you use the filter
at the tele setting, then everything is fine.  but when you zoom out to wide,
you get vignetting.  this may be why you didn't have a problem the last time.

I'm assuming you have a wide-tele zoom wider than 35mm and that you use the
A-series filters/holder.  if this isn't true then I don't know what the hell
is going on, and you can ignore me.

eugene
From: 6500rick@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Richard J. Bessey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photojournalists?
Date: 22 Nov 92 08:08:59 GMT


I too was beginning to wonder if there are any photojournalists 
out there.  I have talked to a couple, so I do know that there
are some.  But I always look, so if you have anything, post!

Rick


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rslugg@med.unc.edu (Robert Slugg)
Subject: Re: The color developer in the E-6 process
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 20:35:48 GMT

Formalin is a mixture of formaldehyde and water, usually 40% by weight is
the maximum, so 10% formalin is the same as 4% formaldehyde.  Usually more
toxic forms such as paraformaldehyde and glutaraldehyde are used for
"preserving" things.  They act by forming crosslinkages with biological
molecules, hence the stiffness of things that have been "fixed."  I assume
the process in photography is the same, perhaps they sit there and wait to
attach to any biological molecule that comes along, or they tie up all the
free endings to prevent things from attaching.  The amounts in the hobby
packs are miniscule, trust me, I've used 4% glut and survived.  Only worry
with these things when you can;t smell, as thats when you've fixed all the
receptors in your nose and the brain is the next target down the line.
Based on the amount of concentrated fixatives I've been exposed to, most
of you would have to drink a couple of hobby packs to catch up.  BTW,
formaldehyde and its derivatives are used as preservatives in foreign
beers, in case you wondered where that distinctive taste came from.

Bob
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Idiot Mistakes
Date: 17 Nov 92 01:38:37 GMT
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <1992Nov16.040719.23195@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Jimmy.Tung@dartmouth.edu (Jimmy Tung) writes:
>BTW, you wouldn't happen to have a Canon EOS would you?  The earlier
>models wound the film *into* the canister as you took pics, so opening
>the back only ruins (previously :-)) unexposed film.

Incorrect.  The _cheaper_ models suck the film into the cannister.  The
750, 850, 700 (?), and Rebels do this.  The rest work traditionally.  Call
it idiot-, umm, I mean _novice_-protection!

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			One Design to rule them all; one Design to find them.
			One Design to bring them all and in the darkness bind
			them.  In the land of Mediocrity where the PC's lie.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: graham@ug.cs.dal.ca (Michael Graham)
Subject: Re: putting photos on a wall.. (?)
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 04:46:48 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.171458.9871@PacBell.COM> jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria) writes:
>
>Not to be a smart-ass, but why don't you frame the pictures?
>Afterall, that is the normal way, at least for me, when I
>want to put my pictures up on the wall.

damn! I just deleted my original msg. Anyway - I want to put A LOT of
pictures on my wall - INEXPENSIVELY. I'm talking about 50-100 photos, 
which rules out thumb tacks, nails, and definitely frames.
Once again - it's a very hard plaster wall.

mike "almost unemployed student with little cash to spend" graham
-- 
**************************************************************************
Bjork sounds so good, that if I were a singer trying to make a living today    
I'd shoot myself in desperation of ever equalling her  -  Barbara Ellen, NME
From: dinesh@pyramid.COM (Dinesh Jalisatgi)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need Circuler polarizer size 52mm.
Date: 16 Nov 92 19:31:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: shadow.eng.pyramid.com

Hi,

 Iam in need of a circular polarizer.

 Size : 52mm.

  Send email to me if anybody selling.

 Thanks.

 Dinesh.
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Wednesday, 18 Nov 1992 09:11:48 EST
From: Damon Kiesow <IO80861@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: EOS FAQ - Bigger and Better!
Distribution: world
 <1992Nov17.071145.9207@colorado.edu> <1992Nov17.203027.2128@ucbeh.san.uc.edu>

In article <1992Nov17.203027.2128@ucbeh.san.uc.edu>, yuanj@ucbeh.san.uc.edu
says:
>
>In article <1992Nov17.071145.9207@colorado.edu>, panos@burton.cs.colorado.edu
>(Panos Tsirigotis) writes:
>> In article <1992Nov16.231830.3592@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>
>acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
>>>
>>>6.7.  How can I shoot more than 36 exposures?
>>>
>>>It appears that there is no way so far.   The  camera  cannot..............


>>>............................What about if you hit EOF with a roll  of  less
>>>than 36?  Any sprocket hole damage?)


    I once hit a roll of 24 disguised as a roll of 36 (bulk rolled) on my
    EOS 1. Rewinded normally with no damage but did confuse the hell out
    of me until I opened it up to develop. The EOS 1 doesn't just rely on
    the DX it also watches tension. Of course I have never gotten more
    than 24/36 out of a roll either.

   Damon Kiesow / IO80861@Maine / 71131,1635 / 207-581-3059
From: dtalmage@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Comments on Pentax Stereo Adapter?
Date: 16 Nov 92 09:04:42 -0500
Distribution: world
Organization: Georgetown University

Pentax has a stereo adapter and viewer in their current product 
catalog.  The adapter goes on your 50mm lens, letting you take 
single-frame stereo slides.  You must use the special viewer to see 
your slides.

I've seen some articles in rec.photo about Kodak Stereo Realist 
cameras but nothing about the Pentax adapter.  Would anyone who has 
used one of these rigs care to tell us about it?

BTW, the only price I could find in any Shutterbug ad was at Smile 
Photo.  They want $84 for the adapter and $49 for the viewer.
From: cy@borland.com (Cy Shuster)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Kodak Print Maker
Date: 17 Nov 92 00:39:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: borland.1992Nov17.003941.27772
Distribution: na
Organization: Borland International
Originator: cy@genghis.borland.com

In article <1992Nov1.233100.7690@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> jpreisch@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James W Preisch) writes:
>I have recently been using a Kodak Print Maker machine in my local photo 
>store.  The employees are nice, but I'm not sure they completely understand how
>the machine works.  Can anyone give me a source of information on the workings 
>of the system.  Thanks

Call Kodak at their 800 number (call 800-555-1212 to get it) and ask them
to send you the relevant sections of the manual. The machine in my area
is the Kodak Create-a-Print II. It has three levels of interface: novice,
super user, and omniscient. Only the novice controls are documented on the
machine itself. The super user interface lets you adjust color balance and
contrast. If the machine's not in that mode, ask them to switch it over for 
you (hold the cursor at the bottom row, midway between the two leftmost
icons, and hold the "enter" button down for three seconds).

The controls are pretty straightforward, except for the color balance 
adjustments. I can type in some of it if there's interest. The docs only
address the bare minimum of the controls: there's just a few words on
usage tips ("select the up arrow for baby-on-a-red-blanket-type photos").

I'm really astonished that Kodak would put out such a sophisticated
machine without anything but the most cursory documentation -- especially
a large part of their potential customers will be quite comfortable with,
if not addicted to, technology.

--Cy--
cy@borland.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: strong@tc.fluke.COM (Norm Strong)
Subject: Re: putting photos on a wall.. (?)
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 16:15:13 GMT

}>>Not to be a smart-ass, but why don't you frame the pictures?
}>>Afterall, that is the normal way, at least for me, when I
}>>want to put my pictures up on the wall.
}>
}>damn! I just deleted my original msg. Anyway - I want to put A LOT of
}>pictures on my wall - INEXPENSIVELY. I'm talking about 50-100 photos, 
}>which rules out thumb tacks, nails, and definitely frames.
}>Once again - it's a very hard plaster wall.
}>
}>mike "almost unemployed student with little cash to spend" graham

Hard plaster wall?  Real cheap?  Here's what you do.  

Trim each picture borderless.  Buy a roll of 1/2" double sided sticky
tape.  Cut the tape into 1" pieces and put one on each of the 4 corners
of each photo.  If it's a big photo, put extra pieces midside.  Now just
place the print where you want it and push on the corners.  Problem
solved at negligible expense.  
-- 

Norm Strong  (strong@tc.fluke.com)
2528 31st S.   Seattle WA 98144   USA
From: elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Kodalux vs Fuji for E-6 processing
Date: 19 Nov 92 21:32:58 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation, Santa Clara

In article <BxxpIy.9r1@mail.boi.hp.com> wally@boi.hp.com (Wally Overton) writes:
>
>   ... Fuji E-6 mailers from Adorama for, I believe, $3.19.  As I had 29
>rolls to send in, I didn't want to spend $16.82 on stamps. (With Kodalux I
>could drop them in a photo store pouch.)  After putting the rolls in the
>mailers, I put them in a box, and mailed it first class, to Fuji in Phoenix for
>about $5 ...

you can drop them off at a store handling fuji processing.  I always drop mine
off at Whole Earth Access.  takes about 4 to 5 days, and you can have the 
option of picking them up or having them mailed to you.

eugene
Newsgroups: rec.photo