HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jadams@vixen.uucp (22475-adams)
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 18:05:23 GMT
Summary: Some subtle suggestions

In article <1992Nov11.153310.16613@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (scott.d.brenner) writes:
> My wife and I are getting ready to sell our house and move into 
> something larger.  Since this is our first house, we've never had
> to prepare a house for showing and sale.  I think I know some obvious
> things to do such as clean it well (both inside and out), spackle and
> paint, clean the carpet (either professionally or with one of those
> rental doohickeys), maybe add some plants, etc.

A really good real estate agent who helped us sell our last house walked through
our house with us after listing and offered some very simple, yet effective ways
of improving our chances of a quick sale (We did 90% of what he suggested).  Among
the things that we never thought of:

	Remove all "excess" furniture in each room (We rented a storage unit for
	a month)...makes each room look larger.

	Change all hanging pictures which are of family members to landscapes,
	etc....makes the home look less like "It _BELONGS_ to the current owner".

	He even went so far as to suggest different furniture arrangements to
	enhance certain features.

In my mind, the three hours he spent with us in helping us prepare the house for
showing were worth the fee his company was getting.  Most of all, with the
exception of repainting the front door (He didn't care for the color), most things
required little effort to complete.  By the way, he sold the house inside of a
week in a severly drepressed real estate market.

Jack (John) Adams	| Bellcore NVC 2Z-220	| - Never trouble trouble
(908) 758-5372 {Voice}	| (908) 758-4389 {FAX}	| till trouble troubles
jadams@vixen.bcr.com	| kahuna@attmail.com	| you - (Fortune cookie)
Jack (John) Adams			| Bellcore NVC 2Z-220
(908) 758-5372 {Voice}			| (908) 758-4389 {Facsimile}
jadams@vixen.bellcore.com		| kahuna@attmail.com
	-- Illigitimi non carborundum est -- Kris Kristofferson
From: GA.MCL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Mark C. Lawrence)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: GFCI question
Date: 13 Nov 92 03:10:03 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

In article <MICHAEL.92Nov11112444@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov>,
michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286) writes:
>
>Now, on to pick a nit: a GFCI in a circuit will protect *all* outlets
>on that circuit. In other words, a GFCI can go anywhere in the circuit
>and will provide protection to all devices in that circuit. Thats
>because the GFI is sensing a current difference between the hot and
>neutral...  which there shouldn't be unless current is being grounded
>somewhere elsein the circuit.

This is dangerously misleading.

A GFCI will protect all outlets "downstream" of it.  The GFCI has two
"line" connections, and two "load" connections, plus ground.  The outlet
contained in the GFCI itself is connected to the "load" side.  The GFCI
mechanism disconnects the load from the line when it senses a ground
fault.  It does indeed do this by sensing the difference between hot and
neutral currents.  But,

1.  The difference can only be sensed for currents that flow through the
    GFCI device.  Current flow from outlets on the "line" side does not
    go through the GFCI, so cannot be sensed by it.

2.  The GFCI cannot interrupt the flow of power to outlets that are on
    the line side of it, because that power does not flow through the GFCI.

The GFCI is a type of circuit breaker, and like any other type of circuit
breaker must be *between* the power source and the thing(s) to be protected.

Mark C. Lawrence
Systems Programmer     Internet: M.Lawrence@Forsythe.Stanford.edu
Stanford Data Center     Bitnet: M.Lawrence@STANFORD
Stanford, CA 94305-4136     Tel: (415) 723-4976
From: allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren)
Subject: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Organization: Test Systems Strategies, Inc., Beaverton, Oregon
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:17:27 GMT

In Oregon, every realtor is a Seller's agent in that it is law
that every realtor must represent the best interests of the
seller, not the buyer.  Exception to this is the realtor who
is paid by a buyer to represent the best interests of the
buyer.  Prospective buyer's can indeed sign a contract to have
a realtor represent the buyer and in this case, the realtor
is no longer bounded by Oregon law to represent the seller first
and foremost.

allen
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: GFCI question
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 11 Nov 92 14:08:18

In article <MICHAEL.92Nov11112444@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov> michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak x7-3286) writes:

      [...]  I'll be replacing the old two-pronged outlets in my
      80 year old house with GFCIs, and I know this follows code, as per the FAQ.
      The FAQ also mentions that this also protects all the outlets downstream from
      the GFCI.  I'd like to replace them at the same time, and would like them
      to be 3 pronged outlets.  Can I wire in regular 3 prongers, just ignoring the
      ground, or do they all have to be GFCIs in this case?

   You can, the adverse consequences are that someone, perhaps a future
   owner, will/might assume that the outlet is grounded when in
   actuallity it is not.

But this is OK,  specifically allowed in the US NEC and is one of the
approved methods for dealing with branches with no grounds.  But make
sure that there isn't a ground,  and consider retrofitting for
appliance circuits,  you do not want your fridge on a GFI.

   Now, on to pick a nit: a GFCI in a circuit will protect *all* outlets
   on that circuit. In other words, a GFCI can go anywhere in the circuit
   and will provide protection to all devices in that circuit. Thats
   because the GFI is sensing a current difference between the hot and
   neutral...  which there shouldn't be unless current is being grounded
   somewhere elsein the circuit. Typically, GFCI circuit breakers are set
   to trip at .005 amps.

This is not worded quite right.  The GFCI outlet will protect all the
outlets which are downstream of it.  It will do nothing for earlier
outlets.

Now on to the real problem.  GFCI outlets for retrofit in this kind 
of case will only work if the outlets are wired in a daisy chained 
fashion with power going to the first one,  then the second,  etc.
If this is an old house,  you might have knob and tube wiring which
will not follow such a ridged structure.  Even more modern wire 
might go to several outlets from one junction box.  So you'll need
to make a wiring diagram before starting on this work.

IMHO,  if this were my house,  and the wiring was mostly 80 yrs old,
I'd consider a rewiring job.  Look at the old wiring and see what
shape the insulation is in,  consider the costs in both materials
and effort, and think about whether you may end up needing to redo
it later anyway.  Many old houses simply have inadequate branches
given modern usage,  so it may save you grief in the long run.


--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lenny@bnr.ca (Len DePalma)
Subject: Re: cleaning up fire place
Reply-To: lenny@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: BNR Ottawa, Fiber Systems Development
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 92 20:55:25 GMT

In article <Bx56p1.8rx@ulowell.ulowell.edu>, wex@cs.ulowell.edu (Paul M. Wexelblat) writes:
|> Echoing most of the recomendations from others
|> (Wait a day or two
|> DO NOT wet them
|> Use a METAL conrainer only
|> (And metal shovel)
|> )
|> 
|> The one I have not seen (yet) is to open the flue
|> first (wait a minute or so to get a draft) then do your
|> shoveling; the small draft will serve to draw the ash you raised
|> up the chimney.
|> 
|> (If no draft, burn a half piece of newspaper)
|> 
|> Then put the can outside, away from you flamable walls!
|> 
|> As ling as you have nor burned stuff with nails in it, you can
|> use the ashed on your drive (some traction help, more melting help
|> since they are dark)  You can turn some into any garden that wants
|> a higher ph.

I second all of the above (although I wouldn't want ashes in my drive
for fear of tracking the stuff into the house!).

One last suggestion which I haven't seen yet... use a metal container
with a tight fitting lid to store the ashes.  If your bucket is air
tight even the hottest coals will be dead and cold in 8-12 hours.

(and be especially wary of dark black clumps when dumping the ashes,
ideally the bucket should be full of a fine grey powder if everything
has completely burned and is dead)  
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
INTERNET: lenny@bnr.ca                 Any opinions expressed are mine.

"You get the most noise from the emptiest barrels."  (Burton Cummings)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rgciccot@ibis.icd.ab.com (Rich G. Ciccotti)
Subject: Single opener for two garage doors?
Organization: Allen-Bradley Company, Inc.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 18:50:34 GMT

My house has a two-car garage with two doors (aluminum, so they're
relatively light). Does anyone know if it is possible to install
a single garage door opener to control both doors? Do any of the
major manufacturers (Genie, Stanley, etc.) sell some type of installation
kit that would allow this?

Thanks in advance,
Rich.
--
Rich Ciccotti 
Allen-Bradley / Automation Systems Architecture
747 Alpha Drive                            internet: rgciccot@icd.ab.com
Highland Heights, Ohio  44143                 voice: (216) 646-4410
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: 3d software for home
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:41:48 GMT
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software

In article <BxGtF6.KuH@apollo.hp.com> daniels_d@apollo.HP.COM (Dave daniels) writes:
> I saw an add on T.V this morning for a 3D s/w package
>that you can use to help you visualize any home inprovements
>you may want to do. The cost of the package was about $75.
>has anyone tried this package? Do you know where it can be 
>purchased ?

What's its name?  At that price point, I did get a copy of TurboCad plus
the 3D extensions.  I didn't like it so donated it to a school.  FYI,
here's some other info:

$ 10	Expert Home Design	SoftSync		Egghead
$ 10	Expert Landscape	SoftSync		Egghead
$ 20	Expert Home Design/Win	SoftSync		Egghead
$ 25	FloorPlan		ComputerEasy		Egghead
$ 30	ProShape for Windows	(shareware)		Simtel/Garbo
$ 32	DYOH: Architecture	Abracadata		PC-Connection,MicroWrhs
$ 32	DYOH: Interiors		Abracadata		PC-Connection,MicroWrhs
$ 32	DYOH: Landscape		Abracadata		PC-Connection,MicroWrhs
$ 37	Home: Bathroom		Generic/Autodesk	PC-Connection
$ 37	Home: Deck		Generic/Autodesk	PC-Connection
$ 37	Home: Home		Generic/Autodesk	PC-Connection
$ 37	Home: Kitchen		Generic/Autodesk	PC-Connection
$ 37	Home: Landscapes	Generic/Autodesk	PC-Connection
$ 39	KeyCAD Complete		Softkey			MicroWarehouse
$ 45	FloorPlan Plus		ComputerEasy		MicroWarehouse
$ 55	FloorPlan Plus Windows	ComputerEasy		MicroWarehouse
$ 89	Draft&Print		Konami			MicroWarehouse
$ 90	Windows Draw		MicroGrafx		Egghead,MicroWrhs
$100	TurboCAD		IMSI
$119	EasyCAD			Evolution Computing
$146	AutoSketch		Autodesk		MicroWarehouse
$175	DesignCAD 2D		ASBC			MicroWarehouse
$179	MacDraft for Windows	IDD			MicroWarehouse
$199	IntelliDraw		Aldus			Egghead,MicroWrhs,PC-Con
$200	AutoSketch for Windows	Autodesk		Egghead
$259	DrafixCAD		Foresight		Egghead
$285	Generic CADD		Generic			MicroWarehouse
$470	DrafixCAD/Windows	Foresight		Egghead
$599(?)	WalkThrough		Virtus

*Depending upon the project and the whims of city building plan inspectors,
you may or may not be able to submit 8.5x11 (A format) drawings; sometimes
they require larger formats (B=11x17 or C=17x22).  Find out what is required
for your type of project and if the software can produce such and if you have
access to a printer/plotter for what is required.  Sometimes you tape 8.5x11's
and take them to a blueprint copy shop.
*My impression of most of the low end products is that they are suitable for
reasonably precise drawings of your ideas to give to a real drafting shop.
*If any software can save in DXF format, most blueprinters have AutoCAD
and can load and print.  Often they can accept HPGL print files.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bsloan@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (bill sloan)
Subject: Re: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: nasa
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 18:09:15 GMT

In article <1dojgrINNfb6@eagle.natinst.com>, darrenl@natinst.com (Darren
Lilie) wrote:
> 
> Is that correct? Do these cabinets come disassembled?  If labor isn't included
> how much do they charge(per hour or per linear foot)?
> 
> Also, I wanted a blue countertop and it looks like they dont carry that color
> in their store so it would have to be ordered.  What is an approximate price
> for this.(The countertop would be L shaped with each leg being about 10ft long).
> 
> I would appreciate any info anyone has so I can get an idea of how much it will
> cost before sitting down with the salesperson.
> 
> Thanks,
> Darren
What is your concern about getting answers to these questions before you
talk to the sales person?  These are perfectly legitimate questions to ask.
 They will be able to give you exact figures based on your application
rather than a lot of "guesses" by us netters.

bill
From: cervi@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Cervi)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Installing garage door openers
Date: 12 Nov 92 20:23:10 GMT
Distribution: world,local
Organization: NSWC, Carderock Div. Det., Annapolis Facility

>>>>>> On 10 Nov 92 14:22:51 EST, Chad Miller <chad@lilly.com> said:
>
Chad> I'm trying (emphasize trying) to install a Genie 9550 1/2 hp
Chad> garage door opener.  I got to the part about mounting it at
Chad> least 2 1/2 inches higher than the top of the tracks the door
Chad> rolls on.  The spring for the door is about 2 1/2 inches higher
Chad> than the track and then there is about a 1/2 inch between the
Chad> top of the spring and the ceiling.  So, no room for the mounting
Chad> bracket or the screw housing.

Chad> The manual explicitly says to place the thing at least 2 1/2
Chad> inches above the tracks.  What can I do?

How about popping a hole in the sheetrock and putting the motor up between
the ceiling joists.

Mark
-- 
	Mark Cervi, CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC Code 2752, Annapolis, MD  21402
	  cervi@oasys.dt.navy.mil, (w) 410-267-2261, (h) 410-647-0990
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cornutt@lambda.msfc.nasa.gov (David Cornutt)
Subject: Re: Clorox Detergent
Organization: NASA/MSFC
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 18:04:16 GMT

sam@wa4phy.ampr.org (Sam Drinkard) writes:

>Wonder if someone could reply to me and tell me if the Clorox company's
>Clorox Detergent (for clothes) is still available west of the mississippi
>river.  

It's no longer available on either side of the Mississippi.  Clorox
liquidated that operation about a year ago.

-- 
David Cornutt, New Technology Inc., Huntsville, AL  (205) 461-4517
(cornutt@lambda.msfc.nasa.gov; some insane route applies)
"The opinions expressed herein are not necessarily those of my employer,
not necessarily mine, and probably not necessary."
From: bill@soil.Princeton.EDU (Bill Wichser)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: House Flies
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:37:18 GMT
Reply-To: bill@soil.Princeton.EDU
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@nimaster

We just purchased a house in central NJ which we are in the process of painting inside (among other things!).  When we put the heat on, flies come out from everywhere!  There must be 12 to 20 flies per room.

Does anyone know where they are coming from?  We do not see any as long as the house is cold.  The house has been empty now for 2 weeks and yet they are still here.  Is there a way we can be assured of ridding the house of these things?

Out to buy some flypaper...Bill

-- 
********************************************************************************
* Internet: bill@soil.princeton.edu  William Wichser                           *
* UUCP:     princeton!soil!bill      Princeton University                      *
* BITNET:   wwichser@PUCC.BITNET     Civil Engineering and Operations Research *
* Phone:    609.258.4612             E114 E-Quad                               *
* FAX:      609.258.1270             Princeton, NJ 08544                       *
********************************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: adam@microware.com (Adam Goldberg)
Subject: Re: OK to pound nails into concrete blocks?
Organization: Microware Systems Corp., Des Moines, Iowa
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 15:07:07 GMT

macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes:

>In article <13805@texsun.Central.Sun.COM> dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) writes:

>   I have cement blocks for my basement wall, and would like to hang things
>   from the wall.  Is there a certain kind of nail that can be used on walls
>   like this?  Is it better to pound nails into the joints- where the mortar is-
>   or into the blocks themselves?   If nails are not recommened, is there some
>   kind of bolt that can be used>

>There are several ways to attach things to concrete and concrete
>block.  For light things, use tempered nails (hardware stores have
>these).  You can't really depend on these, though: sometimes, they
>hold very well, other times they pull right out.  For heavier things,
>you can use either concrete screws or bolts and plugs.  Concrete
>screws are relatively new: you bore a hole of an appropriate diameter
>(using of course a masonry bit), then just screw in.  Bolts and plugs
>are the older technology.  Lead plugs are the usual, but plastic ones
>exist, too.  Check with your hardware store or home center.

I've also seen what amounts to a two-piece installation.  You drill
a hole (with a masonry bit) into the wall, then pound a sleeve into
the hole.  You then screw a lag bolt into the sleeve, and when you
tighten it down, the sleeve expands slightly and holds onto the 
masonry. 

I haven't used it, but it sure looks solid.

-- 
Adam G.
adamg@microware.com, or ...!uunet!mcrware!adamg
The above is not to be construed in any way as the official or unofficial
statements of Microware, or any Microware employees.
From: kim@castle.wpd.sgi.com (Kim Rachmeler)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Fill old well in basement?
Date: 13 Nov 92 18:14:28 GMT
Reply-To: kim@wpd.sgi.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: SGI CASE Products Group

|> Others said
|> # Don't fill it.  
|> 
|> Agreed. You can hide bodies in it. Unless they are already
|> there. Did you see Jimmy Hofffa down there ;-?

	Or for the less criminally inclined, you might have
  the beginnings of a nifty wine cellar.

	Kim Rachmeler
	kim@wpd.sgi.com
From: moody@e4.ius.cs.cmu.edu (James Moody)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Indoor/Outdoor transition wiring question
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:31:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.BxGx4L.GEG.1
Reply-To: moody@cs.cmu.edu
Organization: CMU Vision and Autonomous Systems Center

I posted last week about putting radiant floor heating in an addition, 
and as I worked more on the idea I came up with some wiring questions.

Background: a small first-floor addition off of the back of my house
provides a ceiling for a back porch (my lot is on a slope, so the 
basement is at grade in the back while the first floor is at grade in
the front). The addition (17' x 14') is attached to the house at one 
end, at the other it is supported by two brick columns. I'll be 
stripping the underside of the addition to get access to the subfloor 
to install heating system and the insulation, and I'd ultimately like 
to clad the exterior with tounge-and-groove cedar.  In the center of
this attractive ceiling I'll put an appropriate light fixture, and I'd 
also like to put outlets on both of the brick columns.  I want to run
all of the wire up in the ceiling.

The outlets and boxes themselves will be outdoor type, and the circuits
will be GFCI protected.  My question is what is the appropriate way to
run the wire to the box?  Should I use conduit, or just use an exterior
-grade romex with clamps as needed?  How does the romex passing into the
box maintain a weather-tight seal?

More importantly, what is a good method to bring the wire out through
the ceiling?  Just run it out of a notch in the cedar and caulk around
it, or must I install a box (yuck)?

The brick columns are L-shaped, 16" on a side, and the outlets will be 
nestled in the crook, so they'll be out of any direct weather, but this 
still must be treated as an exposed installation.  Even so, I'd like it 
to look as good as possible.

Thanks!

-- 
James E. Moody Jr.	The Robotics Institute		(412) 268-2847
			Carnegie Mellon (University)	      CMU-BUGS
			Schenley Park
moody@cs.cmu.edu	Pittsburgh, PA 15213
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Subject: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 01:13:47 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.191727.15670@tessi.com> allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren) writes:
=In Oregon, every realtor is a Seller's agent in that it is law
=that every realtor must represent the best interests of the
=seller, not the buyer.  Exception to this is the realtor who
=is paid by a buyer to represent the best interests of the
=buyer.

In most states, it is not necessary for a buyer to pay an agent to get
"buyer's agency" representation.

=Prospective buyer's can indeed sign a contract to have
=a realtor represent the buyer and in this case, the realtor
=is no longer bounded by Oregon law to represent the seller first
=and foremost.

That's true everywhere that recognizes buyer's agency.
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Ma
Date: 11 Nov 1992 22:16:09 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 11903@i88.isc.com, jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
>
>So maybe we're just atypical.  But personal worked on us; impersonal
>didn't sell our house.  Go figure.

>jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL

Wadda ya expect from a guy who names his motorcycle "Gleep?"

Personal, indeed!

---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: mtw8527@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Mike Wallach)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Shake Roofs - Replacement
Date: 13 Nov 92 18:33:39 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle

Can you replace a shake roof with some other type
of roofing material, like asphalt shingles?
Is this more costly than putting another
layer of shakes on your existing roof?

What all would be involved in changing a shake roof
to some other type of roofing material?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house