HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Subject: Re: Look Release Adjustment
Organization: Wayne State University, C&IT
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 14:09:23 GMT

In article <rpcfod-280992161356@rpcfod.worldbank.org>
rpcfod@worldbank.org (Robert Patt-Corner) writes:
 
      [...]
>I've just installed my first clipless system (LOOK PP96's from last year)
>with
>the red (ARC) cleats.  Overall nice, very nice ...
>
>I do have a lot of trouble disengaging.  From the pretty sketchy
>directions, I'm to rotate my heel *outwards* to get the disengagement
>leverage. That works just fine from a 12:00 position or close, but is
>nearly impossible at 6:00.  My legs just don't seem to have that much
>rotational movement.
>
>The cleats seem to give me plenty of rotational "play" when riding ...
>maybe that's the problem ... that you have to go that much further to
>disengage?
>
>I've run the tension all the way CCW to reduce without much effect either
>way.
>
>Rotating the heel *in* seems actually easier, but only from positions where
>the heel will clear the chainring.
>
>And getting out once I've fallen is nearly impossible -- how do you get out
>of these things while lying in the road with an auto bearing down on you
>(partial grin).
>
>Perhaps I just need to adjust the cleat so that I have less rotational
>adjustment on the *heel out* direction.  But is that good for knees?
>
I had the same problems until I switched from the red cleats  to the
black cleats. I found I didn't need the rotation of the red cleats,
and it was *much* easier to snap out of the black cleats. Some folks I know
have tried adjust the red cleats as you mention- so that all the rotation
is inward.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
 Michael Joseph Edelman           Wayne State University
 medelma@cms.cc.wayne.edu         Computing & Information Technology
 mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu        Detroit, Michigan
 medelma@waynest1.bitnet          (313) 577-0742
 KE8YY
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Are long seatposts a problem? (was Re: Broken rear dropout)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 00:12:55 GMT

ehouse@Apple.COM (Eric House) writes:
>In article <1as5naINN1lj@uwm.edu> rfriedel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Ronald J Friedel) writes:
>>... [M]y seat tube was cracked
>>almost half way around!  The flex of the seat tube was stopped right where
>>the seat post ended.  (I did have a long seat post with much of it in the
>>seat tube.)
>This makes me wonder if having a long, inflexible seatpost running halfway
>down the seattube is a bad thing.  I needed a bit more than the standard
>180mm and so bought a mt. bike post for my road bike, but haven't bothered
>to cut off the considerable excess since I figure I might want to use it
>on an ATB frame some day.
>Is this a foolish thing to do?  Should I cut the thing off already and stop
>lugging the extra ounces around?  The seattube is butted, so I doubt the
>post has much contact with the tube walls below the opening except when the
>frame is really flailing around.
I've used long American Classic seatposts on my road bikes for years and have
never had any breakage problems.  It's so light I don't particularly care
about the extra weight.  It's seems to me that the further the post is in
the seat tube the stronger it would be.
-Terry
From: Graeme_Dixon@transarc.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: DURA-ACE freewheel maint.
Date: 29 Sep 92 18:41:35 GMT
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

ross@mscf.med.upenn.edu writes:

> soak the freewheel in degreaser, then fill with Phil Wood Tenacious Oil
> (by dripping oil into the four holes on the outside of the freewheel).
> What's the best procedure for the Dura-Ace freewheel?  Can I basically 
> follow the same technique?  How often does this need to be done?  

This would certainly work -- there are holes in the middle of the body
(once you have taken the sprockets off) for lubrication, but I never
found this a very successful approach.

I've been using Dura-Ace freewheels for the last four or five years
and what I do every so often it to take them apart and regrease the
bearings. This turns out to be fairly easy -- the freewheel body has a
plastic seal, followed by a nut, that both are left-hand threaded (I
put a tubular box wrench in a vice and sit the freewheel on the wrench
while I unscrew the seals).  These usually come off easily and then
the body splits into two parts. In addition to regreasing the bearings
I usually put a small amount of grease on the pawls before putting the
freewheel back together. Putting it back together is a simple case of
reversing what you did to get it apart.

Graeme N. Dixon
   Transarc Corporation
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: daavid@bohra.cpg.oz.au (Daavid Turnbull)
Subject: Re: Can someone give me advice on headlights?
Organization: Computer Power Software
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 12:40:53 GMT

In article <6709@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:
>
> 	With all the talk on the net about home-brew lighting systems, I am
> interested in making my own.
> 	I want to take an old driving light from a car and hook a battery up
> to it.  I would change the standard 12 volt bulb to a 6 volt, and use either
> a 6 volt lantern battery, or wire up 4 1.5 volt D cells, or 4 1.25 volt Ni-Cad
> rechargable D cells.  The latter is what I want to do, since I already own a 
> battery charger for these cells.
I use 4 Ni-Cad's,  they are sort of double length D cells which I have housed
in electrical conduit of the appropriate diameter.  With 2 3 Watt halogen
globes, plus three led's a flashing out the back I get about 6 hours worth
and have a generator mounted underneath for the back wheel as backup.

The headlamp barely makes the grade.  If I had my druthers I think that about
tripple the wattage would allow me to keep up a reasonable pace at night
without street lighting and cloud cover would be required at the front.  As it
is when it is very dark with what I have I can see enough to travel at a
reasonable pace on familiar territory.

I would opt of standard cycling lights but check that the front housing can
cope with a globe of reasonable wattage (mine goes up to 3Watts only) and
if possible make sure that halogens are available, not only do they start
out brighter they sustain it for longer.... but they cost!
> 	I'm sure this would work, but what I want to know is, will it be bright
> enough?  I want to actually see, not just be seen, since winter is coming and
> my daylight hours for MTBing are decreasing.
> 	Also, what amperage and wattage of 6 volt bulb should I try?
>
> 	Any info would be GREATLY appreciated!
> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
> James Gourgoutis       				   
> Mechanical Engineering                                O   
> University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
> e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
> 	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
> Thanks!                                     "A bonafide BIKAHOLIC, and DAMN
>                                              proud of it!"    
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
> -- 


-- 
	Daavid Turnbull
	daavid@bohra.cpg.oz   +61 3 823 0222    (fax) +61 3 824 8068
	uunet!munnari!bohra.cpg.oz!daavid
	CP Software Export Pty Ltd                   ACN 006 640 133
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 18:26:53 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.191645.26711@walter.bellcore.com> kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner) writes:

>I guess all those professional triathletes who use disks and composite spoke
>wheels either a) never pick up their heads to look forward for a couple of
>seconds, b) go faster due to the psychological aid and comfort they receive, c)
>are paid big bucks by sponsors to use these products, or d) actually gain speed
>through the use of these wheels.

And can you tell me how you would tell if they gained any speed with
these aero devices? In our club TT one of the Tri-geeks actually saved
2 minutes or more by taking off all of the aero stuff. Now, granted,
the course was half mild climbing (600 feet in 10 km) but the whole
point is that there is no valid way of comparing the advantages of
aero equipment except on a track and with instrumentation that assures
you that the rider is performing nearly identical with and without
aero equipment.

If you think that the Giro aero helmet is going to save you any measurable
time over the Specialized aero helmet then you are really the kind of 
person that advertisers like. Likewise the savings of a 24 spoke bladed
front aero wheel with an aero rim vs. a three-spoke. One zig and the advantage
has completely disappeared.

If you're a pro rider you need every advantage. If you are a recreational
rider and buy this stuff, you'll just have your doors blown off by some
17 year old kid on a box stock Trek 1400.

How many tri-geeks (not perjoritive -- descriptive) have I passed on
their aero bars while I was riding on the tops?
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: side by side tandem
Date: 4 Oct 92 01:20:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: vmd.1687511E2F.EPLUS17
Organization: C.C.S.O.

In article <maarrrk.718137252@seidel>
maarrrk@seidel.ucsb.edu (Mark Erickson) writes:
 
>From Webster's Seventh New Collegiate Dictionary:
>
>_tandem_ (adv or adj): one after or behind another
>
>_tandem_bicycle_ (n): a bicycle for two or more persons sitting tandem.
>
>	So, by definition, a tandem cannot be side by side.
>	
>	--maarrrk
>
>	(for the humor-challenged:  :+) :+) :+) )
 
From the same dictionary,
 
tandem (n) : 2. a group of two or more...acting in conjunction.
 
So, it WOULD be a tandem, but not a tandem bicycle (or quadricycle).
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: johnsome@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (JOHNSON MARK EDWARD)
Subject: Fisher Bottom bracket
Followup-To: johnsome@rintintin.colorado.edu (Mark Johnson)
Summary: noisy
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:55:41 GMT

I'm having problems with bottom bracket making loud 'Creaks' when I
stand up and pedal.  The fisher bottom bracket is just 2 sets of 
sealed ball barrings and rod.  I thought the noise was from my  
cranks being possibly a little loose, but its not.  Has any one else
with a fisher had this problem?  The noise is getting loud and I'm 
afraid of giving Gary Fisher a bad name.
         thanks
            Mark J.



Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 15:26:28 GMT

In article <Bvo7Ex.Dww@visix.com> ken@visix.com writes friction:

>2) Part of general maintenance (before or after each ride) should
>include, removing the chain from the chain ring and spinning the
>pedals. Listen/Feel for any grinding of bearings. If you detect some
>grinding, its probably time to repack the bearings. Do the same
>spinning for the front and rear wheels.

An easy way to amplify the sound of any grinding (and thus catch the
problems sooner):  place your ear on the nose of the saddle.
All the the grinding noise will travel through the tubes and the
saddle will act as a sounding board.


-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
From: r.g.olsen@att.com (Ron Olsen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Dealing with broken MTB derailleur
Date: 5 Oct 92 21:40:48 GMT
Reply-To: r.g.olsen@att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Denver CO

For the second time in two years, I have had
a rear derailleur broken by a small tree branch while
riding through the woods.  The branch 
snagged in the derailleur and broke the derailleur into two pieces.

Following tips I have read in several places, I removed
the derailleur and shortened the chain to attempt to convert
the bike into a one-speed.

The problem I have is this: I couldn't shorten the chain to the
exact length needed for an appropriate gear; it's either one
link too short or one link too long.  The wide spacing on
my 14-32 Hyperglide cassette undoubtedly contributes to this.
This causes the chain to skip wildly from one cog to another
while I pedal.  I tried using a Shark Fin as a chain guide to
hold the chain on the proper cog.  This worked for a while,
but eventually the chain skipped onto a larger cog for which
it was one link too short, and the chain got extremely tight.
I pedaled along for a while like this, but soon the chainring
self-destructed and took a big gouge out of the chainstay.
I then removed the chain and rode/walked back chainless.
Fortunately, it was mostly downhill.

Anyone have tips as to how to keep a shortened chain
on the proper cog when it's one link too long for that cog?
Any other ideas on how to cope with this situation?
I may invest in a rear derailleur guard; it seems as if
tree branches have an affinity for my derailleur...

	Ron Olsen
	Boulder, Colorado
	r.g.olsen@att.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: border@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border)
Subject: Re: Worn-out Front Derailleur (after 300 miles)
Keywords: tandems, front derailleur
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 20:30:50 GMT

blp@cypress.com.UUCP (Bruce Prickett/PROM) writes:

>After putting the 24 ring on, we started having frequent problems with 
>throwing the chain when we shifted from 36 to 24. 

Get a chain-watcher.  I've always thought these things were sort of a gimmick,
but after having similar troubles on my tandem I decided to give one a try.
Since installing it 4-5 months ago, I have not thrown the chain a single time.

>1) when is the most stress put on a front derailleur?
>I imagine it is when shifting down while climbing.

I would agree.  By definition, shifting up should be easier- you shift 
up when you want a bigger gear (ie there isn't much tension on the chain).

>2) what experiences have other people had with wear on the
>front derailleur? 300 miles is way too short.

I've had the same front derailleur on my tandem from day 1 (2 years ago).
Before that, it was mounted on my mountain bike for a couple years.  300
miles is *way* too short.  (My derailleur is old Deore XT)

>3) Any suggestions, especially from tandem riders? We find it
>difficult to back off pedalling when shifting, since the shift
>from 36 to 24 is usually done when we are about to bog down.
>To prevent throwing the chain, I now shift up 2 cogs before
>shifting down to the 24T chain-ring.

Try to pre-shift as much as possible.  If you're going to need the granny
on a hill, get into it *before* you're on the hill.  When shifting on the
hill is necessary, develop a 1-2-3-shift! method where you both unload for
a "brief" moment to shift.  Try to throw the lever as you're coming over
the top on a stroke (low tension anyway).  Set your front derailluer so that
it will easily throw the chain off the granny ring.  Then use a chain watcher
to keep it from being thrown (strive for a quick shift).

If you've really blown it and need to make the granny shift under max load-
just do a little circle in the road (traffic allowing) and shift while 
coasting.

>4) We are replacing the shot derailleur with a shimano XTR unit,
>since it looks heftier. Any reccomendations for a bullet-proof
>front deraiileur? (I know this is in rec.bicyles.tech, but it seems
>a fair question)

If I had the extra $$, I'd be inclined to use a Mavic.  

>	Bruce P.
_______________________________________________________________________________
* Ryan A. Border               border@nas.nasa.gov,   border@craywr.cray.com  *
* Cray Research Inc., On Site Applications Analyst 415-604-4633  o__ o__      *
* Numerical Aerodynamic Simulator, NASA Ames Research Center    _.>/-.>/'_    *
* Never trust someone who can count to 1023 on their fingers.  ( ) \---\(*)...*
==============================================================================*
From: rob@contempt.brisnet.org.au (Rob Amos)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 19:37:06 +1000
Reply-To: rob%contempt%meteor@bunyip.cc.uq.oz.au
Organization: Rob's pit of despair   >:-(

In <1992Sep27.031420.10955@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai) writes:
>In article <ahlwqA2HBh104h@contempt.brisnet.org.au>
>rob@contempt.brisnet.org.au (Rob Amos) writes:
>> due to Killer Chain
>> Suck Crunchings) but am still on original rear cluster.  I have covered
>> approx 3,500 km on it.
>> 
>> What's the opinion on replacing it?  Should I buy a new one? 
>What?!?!?!!?  Shimano and many others reccomend you change both
>freewheel and chain every year!  3500 km!  Crisp shifts?  No way with a
>freewheel with 3500 kms on it!

{cough cough}  {pats sore wallet}

Replace the freewheel _every_ year?  I'll have to pull a "cynical" on this
one and suggest that Shimano (and the others) are ensuring their sales
by recommending this... especially since others replying to my original
post seem to think that the freewheel should last longer.

I think my bike's hesitant changing could be due to ratty index shifters
and possibly not the freewheel, which despite its 3,500 to 5000 km (I have
revised my figures) still goes OK.

I'll have to give everything a thorough look-over.

Anyway, thanks to those who contributed to my original query.

WISH:  A pair of Cannondale knicks.  One day, you'll be mine, Mine, MINE
Ha ha hhhaaaaarrrr!

-- 
__________________________________________________________________
This is where it ends     _  _  [_     Rob Amos
There ain't no more      [  (_) [_)    rob%contempt%meteor@bunyip.cc.uq.oz.au
                                       Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ken@visix.com (Ken Mayer)
Subject: Clipless pedals (Was My first Century)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 22:32:36 GMT
Reply-To: ken@visix.com
Organization: Visix Software Inc., Reston, VA

-->On Wed, 30 Sep 1992 19:55:57 GMT, eak@swl.msd.ray.com (EFTHYMIOS KIAFOULIS) said:

[ Lots of stuff about Look ARC's ]

I recently purchased TIME Sport pedals and Start cleats and have been
very happy with them. (I've had knee and back problems for years, so I
was very concerned about purchasing something that might lock my knee
into a damaging position.) They use a brass frob on the cleat that
clips between two spring loaded bars on the pedal. The frob is free to
rotate 7-9 degrees before it will disengage from the pedal. There is
only one degree of adjustment freedom on the cleats, and once that's
set (at the shop, by a knowledgeable person, with the right tools),
you don't need to monkey with it ever again. 

Now if I can only get the hang of releasing the cleat when I throw a
chain. ( I look like that guy from Laugh In -- you know the one on the
tricycle... )

Ken
--

Ken Mayer (ken@visix.com)
Visix Software Inc./703.758.8230
  Bene Vivere Ultio Optima --- Living Well is the Best Revenge
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: caged vs. loose bearings
Keywords: headset, bottom bracket
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 15:20:41 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.040751.25849@leland.Stanford.EDU>
sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov) is bearing-less: 

>The other day in the library I was reading a bicycle repair book
>about overhauling the headset ...   I'm wondering if it really 
>is a good idea and if it really makes a difference.  ... Is
>it a good idea for the bottom bracket too, or not?  

I think it is a good idea with any caged bearings.  Not necessarily
because you get more bearings.  I just don't trust the things.  Just
more stuff to disintegrate and destroy the race.

With the headset, the idea is that there is acutally very little
rotation going on and the likelyhood of brineling the race is higher.
By adding more bearings, the wear-spot is different for each bearing.



-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
From: TOM@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Alt. Quick Release
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:20:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: SLACVM.92276.112015TOM
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center

Saw a neat product, it was a replacment for the quick release.  Explain:
A special allen key, about the size of a #5 allen only star pattern and
matching inserts to take the place of the quick release leaver.  This will
prevent anyone from stealing the front tire, unless they have a five star
allen wrench.  Also it could be more aero dynamic, but the disadvantage
would be finding that allen for quick emergencies repair. I forgot the
paper work at home, but will post the company name on Monday.

                                                     Tom
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: Since we are talking about pro equip
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 00:46:45 GMT

arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca (Adrian Pepper) writes:

>In article <1992Oct2.200454.26966@walter.bellcore.com> kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner) writes:
>>In article <1992Oct2.182653.29153@netcom.com>, tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich) writes:
>>
>>|> If you're a pro rider you need every advantage. If you are a recreational
>>|> rider and buy this stuff, you'll just have your doors blown off by some
>>|> 17 year old kid on a box stock Trek 1400.
>>|> 
>>
>>And perhaps I would have my doors blown off by the same kid even worse without
>>the stuff.  Please make some sense.
>>
>But if you use all the most expensive equipment and get your doors
>blown off by the kid you look a lot sillier.  Must be a pretty
>expensive aerodynamic bicycle that has doors, by-the-way.

>Adrian.
>arpepper@math.uwaterloo.ca

But what happens if you're riding a door?  Does your aerodynamic equipment get
blown off?
-Terry
From: blodgett@bvc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Cateye Micro average speed algorithm?
Date: 3 Oct 92 18:29:07 GMT
Organization: Buena Vista College, Storm Lake, IA

I've seen some pretty weird average speeds momentarily appear on the display of 
my Cateye Micro. For example, I've seen the average jump from 17.1 to 18.3 
then back to 17.3 all in a matter of 10-15 seconds or so. This morning the 
average momentarily appeared as 210.3 then immediately jumped back to normal 
range. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? 
I don't really have reason to doubt the overall accuracy of the Micro because 
the mph, distance, elapsed time, and cadence readings correspond with 
readings on the cyclometers of the people I ride with. I have concluded, 
perhaps erroneously, that the anomaly arises from the algorithm used to 
compute average speed.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech