HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Vibration in drivetrain
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 04:35:24 GMT


'84 mustang, V-6 w/automatic transmission, 76k miles.
the car vibrates under acceleration.  the vibration gets stronger
and increases in frequency as road speed increases (most noticeable
at 45 mph).  when i coast, the vibration goes away.  but as soon as
i get on the gas, it starts to shake again.  my brother (who normally
drives the car) says the problem appeared gradually, about a couple of
weeks ago.  also, the car seems to have no power beyond 70 mph and
can't go much faster now.  at this point, the vibration seems to
disappear - but i think it is just that the frequency is so high that
it isn't as noticeable any more.

at first i thought the wheels might be out of balance.  but the weights
are still on them and the vibration disappears when i coast.  and the
problem appeared gradually (so my brother says).  so i'm guessing that
the universal joint is dead or the driveshaft is out of balance.

any ideas on what the problem might be?  how much would it cost
to replace a u-joint?  (my best guess so far.)  could it still be
the wheels?  also, i put the car in neutral and revved the engine.
no unusual vibration.  thanks for your help.
-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
     <31160130@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> <Bt8zt5.9oy@taligent.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 22:01:22 GMT

Re: Spark plug wire help

Whoa!  Maybe I should stay off the caffeine for a while... sorry about
that Don.  I thought I was being flamed...

--Tom--
From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Aerostar info (tuneups, etc)
Date: 12 Aug 92 16:37:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: VM1.16841B182.D1SAR
Organization: The University of Akron

In article <1992Aug10.230405.8957@intelhf.hf.intel.com>
jmasters@pcocd2.intel.com (Justin Masters) writes:
 
>
>I'm looking for a van, and I'd previously scratched the
>Aerostar (made by Ford), but in a conversation the other
>day, I found a friend who can get me one for a pretty
>decent price.  The reason I'd scratched the Aerostar off
>my list before was because of my doing the tuneup work, and
>I found very little to no room in the Aerostar engine
>compartment.  I admit, I didn't look very well, but am
>just wondering if I may have been too presumptuous to think
>that there isn't room for doing basic tuneup work.  What does
>it take?  Do I need to lower the engine?  Please let me know.
>
I have had 2 Aerostars and have done most all of my own basic type work.
The plugs are not the easiest thing to change.  I would recomment getting
a book such as Haynes or Clymers on the Aerostar. Brakes, oil changes, air
filter, shocks, are not difficult at all.  I think replacing the headlight
is one of the more pain in the butt type things there is.  We haven't had
a major problem with our van so far.  I would get the power door locks
as an option.  It saves getting out and checking all the doors to see
if they are locked.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*                                                                       *
*  STEVE RIMAR                       INTERNET: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU  *
*  INFORMATION SERVICES              BITNET:   D1SAR@AKRONVM            *
*  THE UNIVERSITY OF AKRON                                              *
*  AKRON, OHIO  44325           "EXPERIENCE IS WHAT YOU GET WHEN YOU    *
*                                DON'T GET WHAT YOU WANT"               *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SENTRA Wipers, help...
Date: 22 Aug 92 08:10:19 GMT
Organization: /etc/organization

In article <714402092.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess) writes:
> >
> > The wipers and the windshield washer on my 85 Sentra died.
> >  The
> > technician at a local workshop disconnected the wiper motor.
> >  He then
> > connected a probe (tester?  Its other end was connected
> > to the
> > battery) for a second or less to the different wires in
> > the cable
> > which was originally connected to the motor.  He then rejoined
> > the
> > cable to the motor and the wipers worked!  I was pretty
> > happy about
> > the quick fix.
> >
> > According to him the intermittent wipers on the car use
> > some kind of
> > relay and that relay was not working properly.  According
> > to him, the
> > wipers might not work the next time I turn them on or they
> > might work
> > properly for years.
> >
> > Later that day, as I was going home, the wipers (and the
> > washer - as I
> > later discovered) suddenly died - after running for about
> > 10 minutes.
> > :-(   So, I think, I should replace the relay.
> >
> > Now my questions are : Is his diagnosis about the relay
> > correct?
> > If it is correct then where is it located and how
> > can one replace it and how much does it cost?
> >
> > Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> 
>HEY!!!
>it sounds like you found a skilled and honest tech who tried to save 
>you some money and do a quick fix.  I think you should go back to 
>him and let him earn some money.  While I KNOW where the relay is 
>I decline to disclose the information.  Automotive pros have bills 
>to pay just like you do.  
>
>

My 82 Datsun truck had a similar problem...  the relay for the wipers was
next to the fuse box, and all you had to do was reach down and wiggle it until
they came on.
From: georgej@gtephx.UUCP (Jefferson George)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: GM truck radios
Keywords: radios
Date: 19 Aug 92 21:14:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AG Communication Systems - Phoenix, AZ


>Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
>Subject: Chevy truck stereo
>Keywords: chevy
>Message-ID: <BsyEvn.ss@andy.bgsu.edu>
>Date: 14 Aug 92 03:26:10 GMT
>Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.
>Lines: 7

>A friend of mine was at a car show a while back and he has a buddy who owns a 91or 92 Chevy truck.
>  This guy stopped by who told them that he could make his 
>stereo sound louder for five bucks (factory, digital, cassette).  They said
>cool and he got in.  He pressed several buttons got out and wouldn't tell them  what he did but 
the stereo was louder now at full volume.  Does anyone know 
>what kind of trick he used?  I would love to know it.   
>       Please E-MAIL me if you know what to do!   Thanks,
                                                       Joe

here is the info!.  I have been told that this no longer works on 92 models

OR 1987+ GM trucks


To turn on the amplifier
------------------------
   1) turn on the radio
   2) push the FADE-button arrow pointing DOWN and hold it
   3) push the VOLUME-button on the LEFT side (decrease volume)
   4) when this is done, an LD will light up above the word STEREO

To turn on Dolby Noise Reduction
--------------------------------
   1) turn on the radio
   2) push the FADE-button arrow pointing UP and hold it
   3) push the VOLUME-button on the RIGHT side (increase volume)
   4) when this is done, DNR will appear below the word STEREO


-- 
Jefferson George                                    
AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona 
Inet: gtephx!georgej@enuucp.eas.asu.edu   
UUCP: {ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!georgej 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Why does car stall when going downhill or sudden stops???
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 00:00:06 GMT

In article <26612@life.ai.mit.edu>, pwu@pop-tarts.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
|> car are more venerable than others.  In fact, I have a 85 Ford Tempo which
|> some time stalls when I break at idle, especially while parallel parking and
|> the power steering is at full load.  I haven't figure out how to fix the
|> problem since the idle speed is not adjustable on this car.

If your car has the 2.3L fuel injected engine & automatic transmission
send me some e-mail.  I have figured out this problem on my 1987 Topaz
and solved how to adjust idle speed.  Hint: there is an idle speed
throttle stop adjustment screw that will raise idle speed under 
certain conditions.
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 12:01:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Gas driers - which ones are bad?
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski) writes:

|In rec.autos.tech, arup+@cs.cmu.edu (Arup Mukherjee) writes:
|
|>I remember reading (several months back) in this newsgroup that
|>certain types of gas line driers could be harmful to the fuel system 
|>because they contain some chemical that attacks rubber. It was also 
|>mentioned that other products that use some other chemical are safe. 
|>I was hoping that someone could remind me what the two chemicals in question
|>are.
|
|Many gas line drier products are just plain methanol, which can attact
|rubber and even metal.  The better products (though less frequently found)
|are isopropyl alcohol.  This stuff is more benign, and and carry more water
|as well.  It also is a good fuel injector cleaner

Therefore, can I add a dose of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) every 'x' tankfuls, say
500cc per dose?  Is there any particular min grade of IPA to be used?

|
|>Also, on a separate note - can water in the gas cause pinging? (No, my car
|>isn't pinging but...) I noticed that one of the brands of "dry gas" I looked
|>at claimed to stop pinging...
|
|Methanol (and I think isopropyl alcohol too) is a high octane fuel, and so will
|reduce pinging.  Although water is not a fuel, if mixed with fuel, it will
|also help prevent pinging.  This has to be done carefully--you can't just
|dump water into your gas tank.

I thot the original poster wanted to *get rid* of water?  Anyway, is water
miscible with petrol?  Inquiring minds want to know.

lawrence

|
|
|Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
|"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
|                                       -G.K. Chesterton
|
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: 12 Aug 92 18:35:28 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

>: I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
>: I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
>: train in it...
>: Has anyone out there done this?
>: I have heard nothing but bad things about the
>: original english tractor motor.
>: I love the lines of the car, but I'd like it to be reliable.

>Keep in mind that some collecter in the future is going to curse you eternally
>if you do anything to structurally modify the car, so that the original, PROPER,
>engine cannot be put back in.

>If you don't want to deal with the Lucas electricals and the crappiness of the
>engine in general, perhaps you should just drive a Toyota or Nissan.

>I personally feel that he is trying to 'improve' the Mona Lisa with
>a crayon, however.

Ya, I bet everyone who has sat on the side of the road while the Lucas,
Prince of Darkness, lights forgot to suck darkness and the ignition forgot
what it was supposed to do because the piece of garbage bag wiretie
some "Fine British Craftsman" used to make the connection rusted in two,
would have other terms for this "masterpiece" than Mona Lisa.  Anyone who
has viewed a Triumph crankshaft, a device that markedly resembles a 
large gutter nail forged with loving care using a 10 pound sledge hammer,
would concur.

To the original question, I think one of the jap all-aluminum engines,
particularly one of the V-6s would be a real win.  The Buick all aluminum
V-6 would be a win too.  While you're planning, you might also want to 
plan to replace all that fine Lucas electrical hardware with something
that actually knows how to get 'trons from here to there and back.
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Removal of headrests
Date: 20 Aug 92 16:37:15 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1992Aug20.094054.7059@ac.dal.ca> roneill@ac.dal.ca writes:
>In article <1992Aug19.180025.25844@mcnc.org>, brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>> In article <1992Aug19.123806.7046@ac.dal.ca> roneill@ac.dal.ca writes:
>>>I have always found that a hacksaw blade is a wonderful
>>>tool for removing headrests.  Just follow the instructions
>>>
>> Removal with a hacksaw blade? But what if he wants to use his headrests
>> later? :-)
>> 
>>  
>> Ted Brooks
>I certainly hope you are just kidding?  If you want to cut them
>off, you would use a hacksaw (with a blade) not a hacksaw blade
>as it would be too hard on the hands to hold the blade and would
>take too long to cut.
>
>The blade is used as the tool for sliding down the headrest
>shaft to release the lock mechanism.  I know it works, because
>I once owned a Chev product (scarey).

Hey, it was a joke - didn't you see the " :-) " ? When I read the post, it
was apparent to me that you intended to use it to _release_ the mechanism,
not saw it off. But you have to admit, you could interpret it otherwise....

>>  ______________________________________________________________________
>> | Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
>> | those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
>> |                               ________                               |
>> |                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
>> |                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
>> |                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
>> |                              |________|                              |
>> |______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bilge@maxim.com (Filippo Morelli)
Subject: 88 Turbo T-Bird IDLE FIX!
Organization: MAXIM Technologies Inc., Vienna VA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 19:03:47 GMT

I had an high idle, low idle, idle surge problem. Basically the
idle was all screwed up.  I simply replaced the throttle position
sensor, which is held in on the upper intake by two small bolts.
Also disconnect the negative battery lead for 1/2 hour when you do
this. The problem should go away.  For the $30 part, and the fact
you can replace it yourself, it's the way to go...

Filippo
bilge@maxim.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: steve-c@thumper.TTI.COM (Steve Chan)
Subject: Audi hard to start
Keywords: Audi, starting
Reply-To: steve-c@thumper.tti.com
Organization: Citicorp+TTI
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 21:46:28 GMT



  A friend of mine has a 1981 Audi 4000 that has trouble starting (i.e. engine
cranks but does not start). She says that this problem seems to occur when the
gas gauge reads below half a tank and especially when it reads near a quarter
of a tank. Temperature doesn't seem to have anything to do with it because it
happens when the engine is cold or warm. Does anybody have any ideas. Thanks.
Organisation: European Space Operation Centre (E.S.O.C)
Date: Thursday, 13 Aug 1992 16:39:46 CET
From: <SULDAL@ESOC.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Saab 900 Turbo problems

Well, I tried posting for help with these problems a couple of
weeks back, but received no response - soooo, I'll just have to
keep trying (or junk the car :-). Here it goes:

The clutch is behaving funny, ie. it only catches on the very first
bit of travel, when the pedal is almost fully depressed.
Does this indicate a worn clutch, or is it just out of adjustment?
If so - how do I adjust it/replace it?

Second problem: When the car is stationary, and I turn the wheel
from one side to the other, a loud crunch is heard from the front
wheels, as if two pieces of metal are hitting against each other.
What could be the problem here? It has been there some time, but
seem to be getting worse now.

I would mucho appreciate any help you may provide...

Steen.

(p.s. It's an '86 model)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Daryl S Spano)
Subject: GM pro's out there?
Organization: Loral Western Development Labs
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 13:47:36 GMT



My speedometer gear to my turbo 350 tranny has 26 teeth.  Because I have
smaller tires, at 60 MPH my speedo reads 82.  Is there another speedo gear
with a couple more teeth that I could use.  The dealer is not very helpful.

Just in case you are wondering, there is no problem with my speedo-I went
to very low profile tires, hence a change in my rolling circumference.

P.S. If anyone can get a P/N it would be much appreciated!


                                  Daryl
                                  dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com

The views expressed herein are not the views of Loral or WDL.
They are just the misc. ramblings of an overworked/underpaid person looking
for an outlet to vent his frustrations.  None of the above should be considered
fact.  If your still reading this, you should have figured out it is another
dumb disclaimer and gave up.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Petrol leak
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 06:39:20 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <1992Aug16.221331.5741@osf.org> kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:
>In article <53110022@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com>
>leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence Leong) writes:
>>Is there any method of checking for petrol leaks?
>
>Smartassed answer: Yup. With a match. :-)

I was goint to say that!

Seriously.  For those really hard to find leaks.  Dry the offending area 
carefully. Then puff some talcum/baby powder all round the area and wait.
Later check to see where the powder has become damp or been washed off.

This doesn't work if you drive home in the rain in the mean time.

>	-Kenny "how d'ya make a cat go "WOOF"? Crudup

Derek "How do you make a dog purr?  Fit bigger carburettors" Tearne

-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand --
From: dprkmt@inetg1.ARCO.COM (Ken Tubman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevy brakes - caliper rebuild
Date: 20 Aug 92 21:21:29 GMT
Reply-To: ktubman@arco.com
Organization: ARCO Oil and Gas Company


One of the pads on the front disks of my Chevy Astro wore out before
the other 3 pads.  I am wondering about the cause.  It is the pad on the
*opposite* side of the rotor from the piston (outboard pad).  
Could this be from a piston that is sticking?  I jacked the van
up and spun the wheels by hand.  It seems that the one side might 
be a little bit harder to spin and maybe it slows down a little 
faster (just a little).  So perhaps it is a sticky piston.

Anyway, the shop manual says I need compressed air to remove the piston
and a special tool to insert the new seal.  Is that true?  Can't I just
press (*lightly*) on the brakes to get the piston out and then put the
seal in with a flat surface?  I'd hate to take the brakes apart and 
then not be able to get them back together.

-- 

Ken Tubman          ARCO 
ktubman@arco.com    2300 W. Plano Parkway
(214) 754-3871      Plano, TX 75075



-- 

Ken Tubman          ARCO 
ktubman@arco.com    2300 W. Plano Parkway
(214) 754-3871      Plano, TX 75075
From: moseley@u.washington.edu (Steve L. Moseley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tire speed ratings ?
Date: 14 Aug 92 00:07:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.moseley.50.713750852
Organization: Microbial Pathogenesis and Motorcycle Maintenance

I followed everyone's advice (except for one very negative posting which 
came too late) and ordered a tire from Tire Rack. I ordered a Goodyear Eagle 
GT+4 P205/55VR16. Have they stopped putting the "V" on the tire size? What I 
got from tire rack says P205/55R16, then in smaller letters "89V". My 
original tires also have the 89V, but have the "V" in the size designation 
as well. Can I assume that the tire I got is actually V rated even though 
the  "V" is not in the size designation on the tire?
__________________________________________________________________________
Steve L. Moseley                                  moseley@u.washington.edu
Microbiology SC-42                                Phone: (206) 543-2820
University of Washington                          FAX:   (206) 543-8297
Seattle, WA 98195
From: samuels@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu (Herb Samuels)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Redline MTL for Miata - GL-4 vs GL-5
Date: 12 Aug 92 13:09:38 GMT
Organization: NYU Medical Center, New York, NY 10016, USA

What is the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 manual transmssion fluid. 
Redline sells two manual transmission lubricants for the Mazda miata.
One is MT-90 which is a 75w90 GL-4 and the second is a 75w90NS GL-5. 
The NS stands for no slip and they said it has a higher viscosity than
the GL-4.  Someone else told me that GL-4 was of higher viscosity than
GL-5.  Are there any inherant advantages of GL-4 vs GL-5 or GL-5 vs
GL-4.  The Miata Manual indicates that either GL-4 or GL-5 can be
used.

Thanks,  Herb Samuels