HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: miked@wrs.com (Mike Deliman)
Subject: Re: Those Stubborn stains
Keywords: Carboy cleaners, Nitric acid
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:01:47 GMT

In article <1992Nov17.173608.29363@advtech.uswest.com> mgooley@advtech.uswest.com (Mark. Gooley) writes:
>If you're using nitric acid to remove carboy stains, be sure not to add
>organic solvents to it: nitric is a powerful oxidizer and some such
>blends have been used as rocket fuels, if memory serves.
>
>Mark.
>mgooley@advtech.uswest.com

I'd reccomend against using *strong* nitric. It's commonly used to make
things which go "boom". Rocket fuels? Well... someone on rec.pyrotechnics
(aka "rec.bombmaking")  says "Use a remote controlled device to dump
some glycerine into a beaker of strong nitric. Do this from FAR away.
Wait. boooooooom."
(don't try this at home, kiddies!)

Strong nitric will nitrate organics, creating such things as
nitrocelulose, etc. Most nitrated organics will deflagrate without much
encouragment. Some will just plain detonate.

Use HCl, if you must use an acid.

Just my $.02, what it's worth. Milage may vary.

          -mike
-- 


      O
    O
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: Those Stubborn stains
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 15:39:32 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.225520.44862@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu> laberge@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
>I have recently obtained a used carboy.  The problem is that it has an
>unidentified stain that has so far resisted removal.  I have tried  long
>soaks with bleach, ammonia, and sodium triphosphate (not simultaneously).

Try an acid.  At this stage I doubt if any base will shift it (although
you haven't tried caustic).  All the used carboys I've gotten have come
nice and clean with dilute phosphoric, altough I am sure you could use
hydrochloric (sold in drug store and harware stores as muriatic acid) or
sulphuric (battery).  But to be sure to be sure nitric will reomove almost
any stain, but I am not how easy it is to get, and a milder less oxidising
acid may well be aduquate.

NEVER MIX ACID WITH SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE BLEACH

_____________________________________________________________________________
 "According to Anheuser-Busch, Michelob Dry has |  Ulick Stafford
has less bitter hop flavor and less aftertaste  |  Chemical Engineering Dept.
than regular Michelob.  According to beer       |  Notre Dame IN 46556  
experts, this could not be possible..."         |  ulick@chopin.helios.nd.edu
_____________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jbunn@seanews.akita.com (John E Bunn)
Subject: Re: Brewing With Friends
Organization: SEANEWS - Seattle Public Access News + Mail
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 11:53:15 GMT

> 
> My post was humor, but with a small grain of truth.  I've heard lots

Quite right.  It's easier to apologize than ask permission.  Works for 
me!
 
JB

--
[] SEANEWS [] Seattle Public Access Usenet News + Mail [] +1 206 747 NEWS []
jbunn@seanews.akita.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Subject: Re: Corona mills
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 00:31:44 GMT

In article <BxuGrB.Mo1@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>In article <1992Nov16.163355.10325@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc) writes:
>>Well, I finally figured out that I could get a nice even crush from my
>>Corona.  The trick is to align the yoke properly before tightening the
>>wing nuts on the yoke, adjust the plate spacing, and start crushing.  I was
>>able to get a crush that left hardly any grains unhusked with almost no flour.
>>Awesome. And I got excellent extraction efficiency, too.
>
>After spending the weekend with my "new" Corona, I can sympathize with the
>problems of getting it set "right".  I use quotes because the best one can 
>do is compromise between shredding the husks and passing whole grains but
>as you have pointed out, it does the job.
>
>I would quibble about two points....  it is anything but "awesome" and using
>the term crush is a bit misleading to put it mildly.  Only a roller mill
>crushes.  the Corona shreds and grinds.

I don't know about others but I think cutting down Corona mills to sell your
own mill is getting old.  This has been going on for months!  The Corona mill
is obviously a reasonable alternative for someone who doesn't want to spend a
lot of money.  You've been "quibbling" about this forever in order to do one
thing:  sell your product.  BTW, I made my own roller mill because I believe
they are better at crushing grain, but I have nothing against Corona's.  Let
it rest.

Norm
From: ajd@oit.itd.umich.edu (Arthur Delano)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Message for Russ Wigglesworth
Date: 15 Nov 1992 20:08:00 GMT
Organization: finchhaus
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: helen.oit.itd.umich.edu

Russ, i lost your email address.
Get in touch.

AjD
-- 
                       ajd@oit.itd.umich.edu
"My words are so small that it's hard to hold on to them" - Mark Edwards
From: 97994779@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: American Classic
Date: 21 Nov 92 01:44:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: wsuvm1.168A5F988.97994779
Organization: SYSTEMS & COMPUTING

I am looking to get my hands on an Extract tha is similiar to the American
Classic kits sold by Wiliams Brewing Company. (Catalog) Does anyone know
of anything similar to this?
 
Merci en avance
Patrick
97994779@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu
From: cm445a10@socrates.umd.edu (Troy Holt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Brewers' Bible (was Re: Use of chocolate malt)
Date: 20 Nov 92 22:48:03 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland University College

In article <1992Nov20.215509.16023@sco.com> stewarte@sco.COM (nothing a bullet in the belly couldn't cure) writes:
>
>At the risk of starting a holy war, what do folks think about the 
>various "bibles" now available?  If you had to throw out all your
>brewing books but one, which would you keep?
>
>-- Stewart

I think a better way to ask this is: If you had to suggest just one book to
a friend, which would it be.  I myself would not part with any books from my
collection (even the really bad ones).  I have not had a chance to get the 
Miller book but have heard that it is really good.  Is it possible that the
Papazian book is good for beginners; while the Miller book is better laid out
for experienced brewers.

Just a thought.

Troy

-- 
**********************************************
Troy Holt
cm445a10@socrates.umd.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc)
Subject: Corona mills
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 16:33:55 GMT

Well, I finally figured out that I could get a nice even crush from my
Corona.  The trick is to align the yoke properly before tightening the
wing nuts.  Note that the threaded "bolts" on the yoke can move vertically
on the pins.  If the yoke is not in the proper position, part of the plates
will be in contact, and there will be a gap on the opposite side.  When you
put the yoke on, set the spacing adjuster so that there is almost no play
between the plates; you want enough so that you can just spin the front
plate by hand. Now adjust the yoke vertically until there is the same spacing
between the plates at every point, spinning the plate to check. Tighten the
wing nuts on the yoke, adjust the plate spacing, and start crushing.  I was
able to get a crush that left hardly any grains unhusked with almost no flour.
Awesome. And I got excellent extraction efficiency, too.

Tom
From: kentheri@parker.WPI.EDU (Kenneth Merri Theriault)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Mead?
Date: 17 Nov 1992 17:48:40 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: parker.wpi.edu
Originator: kentheri@parker.WPI.EDU


	I am thinking about brewing some mead but I have a problem.  I don't
know what any tastes like, so I really won't know if I brew it right.   What I
need is to find some place that sells Mead so I can try it.  Does anyone know
where I can buy some Mead in the CT, MA area?    

                            Thanks

                            Ken
From: rrubert@cisncc.intel.com (Rubert, Rodney ~)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Mead?
Date: 22 Nov 92 01:24:00 GMT
Organization: Intel Corporation
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1eg9juINNgh5@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, melkor@planet10.WPI.EDU (Charles J Schletzbaum) writes...
>In article <1ebb9oINNi4@bigboote.WPI.EDU> kentheri@parker.WPI.EDU (Kenneth Merri Theriault) writes:
>>
>>	I am thinking about brewing some mead but I have a problem.  I don't
>>know what any tastes like, so I really won't know if I brew it right.   What I
> 
>Mead can have virtually any spice you could ever want added to it.
>A lot of taste if trial and error but a lot of formulas exist.
>just depends on what you like, then make your mead to suit your taste.
> 
>>need is to find some place that sells Mead so I can try it.  Does anyone know
>>where I can buy some Mead in the CT, MA area?    
>I don't know where to buy it offhand, I'm still trying to get off the ground with my first home batch.
>>
>>                            Thanks
>>
>>                            Ken



	Asking how MEAD tastes is a little like asking how beer tastes.
	Judging MEAD by a commercial offering could be a bad idea. I just
	bottled my first attempt. The recipe is for a sparkling mead but
	I saved some of the mead that I did not bottle. It was very good.
	I am sure I can do better but this stuff is good. I used the 
	"Antipodal Mead" from Charlie Papazian's book. It uses champagne
	yeast and is pretty dry. I was suprised how much champagne taste
	there was to it.

	Anyhow back to the subject, don't worry how it is supposed to taste.
	Give it a go and see how you like it. There is mead that is made with
	wine yeast that I am sure is very sweet and the kind I made is 
	pretty dry. The commercial offerings are pretty few. It would be a
	shame if you decided to not try making a Guiness because you did 
	not like the taste of Bud.


			Rod Rubert
From: steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu (Steve Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: BRFWARE data for extract brewing
Date: 16 Nov 92 19:58:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: nic.1992Nov16.115803.3214
Distribution: world
Organization: CSU, Fresno


Does anybody out there have a collection of data for 
BRFWARE that includes extract specifics?  I'm interested
in something that has my favorite dry and syrup extracts
as part of the malt data.

Failing that, information regarding specific gravity/lb.,
and color information for pale, amber, and dark extract
syrup and powder would be greatly appreciated.

--steve
-- 
Steve Mitchell / steve_mitchell@csufresno.edu / steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu
"STUFF: Anything that can be used for homebrewing."  "JUNK: Everything else
you thought could be used for homebrewing, but can't."
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Corona mills
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 16:39:44 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL

 
 Article 6863 (20 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
 From: hesh@cup.hp.com (Chris Steinbroner)
 Subject: Re: Corona mills
 
 >Jack Schmidling (arf@ddsw1.mcs.com) wrote:
 
 : I would quibble about two points....  it is anything but "awesome" and using
 : the term crush is a bit misleading to put it mildly.  Only a roller mill
 : crushes.  The Corona shreds and grinds.
 
 >i have only one thing to say about the quibbling: Jack is 
 biased; he is selling a product that he wants you (us) to 
 buy.
 
 What you consider bias is simply stating facts.  As a 
 participant in this forum, I reserve the right to engage in 
 discussions no matter whose product benefits from the facts.
 
 >one can't argue with what Thomas Lobonc says:
 
 : I was able to get a crush that left hardly any grains unhusked with
 : almost no flour.  Awesome.
 
 Nobody is arguing with his logic.  It was his choice of 
 words that I quibbled about, i.e, one can not "crush" with a 
 grinder.
 
 >if you have a different experience, Jack, just report it.
 Thomas got good results, you didn't.  maybe Thomas is doing
 a better job than you are at setting the plates "right."
 
 I reported in great detail, viz.... it is a compromise 
 between shredding/grinding and doing nothing.  That is not 
 to say one can not use the pruduct, just that it is a 
 compromise no matter who adjusts it or how careful he is.  I 
 also reported that the Corona is vastly superior for 
 grinding corn for tortillas and for making bread flour from 
 spent grain.
 
 I bought one because it can do things I can't do with a MM.
 
 >From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
 
 > BTW, I made my own roller mill because I believe they are 
 better at crushing grain, but I have nothing against 
 Corona's.  Let it rest.
 
 I am not sure what you are asking me to let rest.  I have 
 not posted an ad or any other outrageous publicty for the MM 
 for a year.
 
 The reason I made the mill is for the same reason you did in 
 addition to the fact that nothing else was available.  As 
 people come and go from this forum, it would be entirely 
 possible that people could conclude from discussions, that 
 the Corona is still the only thing available.  Therefore, I 
 content myself with waving the flag for roller mills when 
 ever it seems appropriate.  I have bent to the will of the 
 group by abbreviating the trade name and using lower case 
 letters. If you do not agree with my assessment of what is 
 "appropriate", we will simply have to agree to disagree.  
 
 Furthermore, as an owner of both machines, I feel I am now 
 qualified to comment on both.  As producer of one... caveat 
 emptor.  However, were I to state my position everytime I 
 commented on grain milling, I would be accused of 
 commercializing so I will leave that up to people like you.  
 You might, however, do it in a less hostile manner, i.e, if 
 you just point out the facts, you won't start a flame war.
 
 js
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Interesting idea for removing oxygen from bottles.
Date: 23 Nov 92 17:59:27 GMT
Distribution: usa, world
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group

In article <1992Nov18.011219.11500@news.columbia.edu> pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc) writes:

>This sounds like overkill. The yeast will anyway consume the oxygen
>that is present in the bottle. In fact, I recently tried to oxidize
>some brew: I filled one bottle only halfway, and shook it well to
>aerate the beer. I let condition for 3 weeks, and did a blind test.
>Neither my wife nor I could detect any difference in either taste or
>aroma.

I think it is overkill, at least as far as EtOH -> Acetaldehyde or
Acetic Acid is concerned.

Gas at STP requies 22.4 Liters to contain one mole of gas atoms.
If the bottle contains 30 ml of air at approx STP, and since air is
21% O2, then the bottle will contain 2.4 * 10^-4 mol of O2.   If
this O2 is used to oxidize EtOH to acetic acid, 0.011 g of EtOH
will be converted.   Since a 350 ml bottle would contain 17.5 ml of
EtOH (5%) then this is 0.06% of the available EtOH.

Chemically, this seems negligable.  However, it might be possible
that something biological might happen.   Some biologist might address
the question - is 30 ml of air sufficient O2 to grow sufficient buggies
to make an off flavor?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: fse@phx.mcd.mot.com ()
Subject: Re: Dispensing from a keg
Reply-To: teroach!fse@phx.mcd.mot.com 
Organization: Motorola Microcomputer Group
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:02:13 GMT

In article <1992Nov22.220233.20152@e2big.mko.dec.com> donham@super.enet.dec.com writes:
>I'm having a devil of a time dispensing beer from Cornelius kegs. Maybe
>somebody in netland can help.
>
>The problem is carbonation. I pressurize my kegs to 15 psi or so at 40F to get
>2.5 or so volumes of CO2, which I believe is working just fine. When it comes
>time to dispense, however, I get a glass of very little flat beer with a great
>head.


You are (believe it or not) overcarbonated.  I fought this for my first
couple of tanks.  It doesn't take much (overcarbonation) to exhibit the
symptom you're seeing.  The CO2 is coming out of solution as soon as it's
dispensed..  Do this:  Turn off the CO2 feed and bleed off all the pressure
in the cornelius via the pressure relief.  Let it sit for a half day (without
CO2 applied) and repeat.  The next day, bleed it off again and re-apply CO2
from the tank (about 5 lbs works best for me).  Try drawing a beer.  If it's
still giving you alot of head and flat liquid, repeat the above process and
re-sample the next day. Do this until it gets dialed in.  The dispensing
pressure you use will depend largely on the tubing diameters and lengths you
use for the liquid line to the faucet.
It seems that there is enough turbulence and restriction coming up through
the small diameter draw tube and then through the hose connectors (pin lock
or ball lock quick disconnects) that the CO2 starts coming out of solution
as it travels through them...  by the time it hits the glass, you can have
85% foam and only 15% liquid.
Bleeding the pressure in steps as I outlined, allows you to stop when the
carbonation is still quite adequate without excessive foaming.

Stan

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Subject: Re: Brewing With Friends
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 20:39:47 GMT

Julie writes:

>DISCLAIMER:  All opinions here belong to my cat and no one else
>DISCLAIMER_PART_2:  The above post should not be construed to
>	say that either my cat or I has done anything illegal,
>	except perhaps to eat a sparrow or two.

You mean eating sparrows is illegal?

Oh oh.

Rick C.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mrbill@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Bowen)
Subject: Re: Use of chocolate malt
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 21:37:10 GMT

In article <apohl.722194398@unixg.ubc.ca> apohl@unixg.ubc.ca (Derrick Pohl) writes:
>In digest <VC#qD8+lP@ssc.gov> homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:
>
>>I picked up a pound of chocolate malt at my local homebrew store after hearing
>>much about it giving beer a nutty flavor (which I like).  I'd like to add it
>>to my next batch of amber (extract), but have heard of using it crushed and
>>uncrushed.  What kind of difference in flavor does crushing it make?
>
>>Thanks in advance...Karl
>>(blosskf@ttown.apci.com)
>
It's been my experience that chocolate malt lends an expresso flavor to beer;
if you want nutty, use toasted (not roasted) barley. You can toast it 
yourself. Spread the barley on a cookie sheet and toast for
10 min at 350 F in the oven.

Cheers,

Bill
mrbill@leland.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Kevin Crawford)
Subject: Liquer Essence
Organization: Atlantic Canada Opportunities Agency (ACOA)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 13:50:06 GMT

Has anyone ever tried adding any of the essences of liquers, or even the 
actual thing to make a beer.  I was wondering on a holiday beer with a hint 
of rum (even if it doesn't add to the potency) that would ensue a good warm 
feeling.

Also for the future, I was also wondering about getting some spruce recipes 
so I can be prepared for the spring harvest.  If you have any please post so 
we can be readuy to make the brew when the time's right (fresh spruce), or 
e-mail me directly and I'll summarize.

Thanks,
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|    Kevin Crawford     |  "I'd rather have a bottle in front of me       |
|(ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca)| then a frontal lobotomy."                       |
|     Halifax, N.S.     |     -- Brian Mulroney (before the operation)    |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mgooley@advtech.uswest.com (Mark. Gooley)
Subject: Re: Those Stubborn stains
Organization: U S WEST Advanced Technologies
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:36:08 GMT

If you're using nitric acid to remove carboy stains, be sure not to add
organic solvents to it: nitric is a powerful oxidizer and some such
blends have been used as rocket fuels, if memory serves.

Mark.
mgooley@advtech.uswest.com
From: ajd@oit.itd.umich.edu (Arthur Delano)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Kegging with other than CO2
Date: 22 Nov 1992 23:02:59 GMT
Organization: finchhaus
NNTP-Posting-Host: helen.oit.itd.umich.edu

davel@ampex.com writes:
>>But, while mentioning guinness, I would love to know what's in the plastic
>>insert in the cans of draught guinness recently available here and how they 
>>work.

Nitrogen.
Nitrogen is also specified as the compressed gas used to pump Guinness
on tap at your neighborhood bar.

AjD
-- 
                       ajd@oit.itd.umich.edu
"My words are so small that it's hard to hang on to them" - Mark Edwards
From: laberge@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Those Stubborn stains
Date: 17 Nov 92 04:55:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: kuhub.1992Nov16.225520.44862
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

I have recently obtained a used carboy.  The problem is that it has an
unidentified stain that has so far resisted removal.  I have tried  long
soaks with bleach, ammonia, and sodium triphosphate (not simultaneously).
Any ideas?
Tim LaBerge
University of Kansas
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: amazon@sgi.com (Stormwind)
Subject: Re: Water in San Francisco
Organization: X Industries, Heavy Weapons R&D
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 23:17:22 GMT

(Arne Thormodsen) writes:
>As a fellow-user of Sunnyvale water, the only difference is that I
>boil it to drive out any residual chlorine.  The last batch I made
>was a bit different in that I used bottled water in the fermentor,
>but still city water for the boil (roughly 50-50 between the two).
>I didn't notice any difference.

i used to live in sunnyvale myself.
i had a fishtank that had no fish in
it, just a bubbler and some plastic
dinosaurs.  i had previously run my
fishtank using oakland tap water, and
the water remained clear for upwards
of two months.

to my horror, after adding sunnyvale
tap water to my clean fishtank, it 
turned murky green after only a week 
in the tank.  figuring it was something
in the tank, i cleaned it out and tried
again with the same result.

ever since then i made sure to drink 
bottled water, or filtered tap water.
i use bottled water for my beer, although
i have been known to use tap water for
the priming solution or to round out
the water that goes into the boil or into
primary.

			stormwind

			hell's amazon