HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: serge@mais.hydro.qc.ca (Serge Oligny)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: RA4 processing...
Date: 7 Apr 92 19:44:45 GMT


Hi everyone !


Yesterday I bought an RA4 chemical kit (Uniprint) and a pack of Kodak
Ultra paper (25 8x10).  I plan to try it out next weekend.  After opening
the boxes yesterday night, I realise I missed the following info.:

  .  The chemistry instruction sheet provide processing time only for
     one specific temperature (40.5C).  There is no time table for
     different temperature.  If anyone with experience in RA4 could
     suggest processing times for temp. range from 30C to 40.5C, I would
     really appreciate to know.  It is far easier for me to adjust time
     than to fiddle with small temperature adjustment.

  .  After searching in the paper enveloppe, I could not find any data
     sheet (as usually included in all B&W paper pack I have bought up to
     now).  I was expecting some basic info. about a 'starting' filter
     pack for various brand of color negs.  I realise I can find out by
     trial and error but I would appreciate if someone could indicate me
     a 'general' starting filter pack for the following brand of color
     negs:

       . Kodacolor Gold,
       . Kodak Ektar (25 & 125)
       . Fujicolor
       . Fuji Reala
       . Konica Impressa (50)


If anyone with RA4 home processing experience care to share a few tips, I
would appreciate.  I am equiped with simple print drums (w/motor base) and
a homemade tempering bath.

Thanks,

Serge Oligny
(serge@mais.hydro.qc.ca)
-----------------------

--
______________________________________________________________________________
                                      This is a personal opinion that have
serge @mais.hydro.qc.ca               nothing to do with my employer.
______________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lgb@cray.com (Larry Briski)
Subject: Re: adorama and slide film
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 15 Apr 92 22:08:15 CDT

In article <1992Apr16.023154.845@athena.mit.edu> sttay@athena.mit.edu (Stephen T Tay) writes:
>hi
>i mail-ordered some fujichrome 50d (professional) film from adorama about 5 days
>ago (together with some other stuff) and just received the parcel this afternoon.
>however, the slide film had an expiration date of nov 1992. this is my first time
>ordering pro-quality slide film and i'm wondering if expiration dates for pro
>slide films are usually shorter than expiration dates for fresh normal slide film.
>ie. are the fujichromes that i received considered fresh stock?

It's my understanding Steve that expiration dates for professional films are
"shorter" than normal films.  This is due to the manufacturers aging the film
for you under supposedly controlled conditions--yes, the retailer is supposed
to store the film in controlled(meaning refrigerated conditions) until they
ship the film to you.

Also professional films generally are those few rolls of film that are within
a tighter window of quality control than normal films.  The professional films
will have the same basic chemistry as its relative normal film but will more
closely match the specifications the manufacturer has for its "perfect"
chemistry.

I highly recommend that you store your professional film in the refrigerator
until time of usage--if you don't allready do that.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Lawrence Briski                  |   "If at first you don't succeed, try,
    Cray Research Inc.               |  try again; then quit--there's no sense
    Chippewa Falls, WI  54729        |  in being a damn fool about it."
    lawrence.briski@cray.com         |                   W.C. Fields
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                            All Disclaimers Apply 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 16:09:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Re:  broken field camera (was Re:  4 x 5 camera help)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.photo


  It's Hard to Focus w/o the Glass!
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  The summer of 1979 I watched my 4x5 wooden field (Tachi!)
  go South with a gust of wind.  It got its first Honorable
  Scar and lost the glass.

  On the Howard Bond workshop trip last summer I broke the
  5x7 glass taking the Old Kodak out of the back-pack.  But
  This time I had traveled with an extra 4x5 piece of glass
  and an extra 8x10 piece of glass - guess that's why I 
  only broke the 5x7 back.  Hmmmm.

  I noticed that Howard had either 1/4" masonite or plywood
  against the glass, held on with large pieces of elastic.
  Probably not a bad idea.

Peter Davidoff
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Shooting Neon Lights
Date: 9 Apr 92 01:48:24 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

goldberg@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Goldberg) writes:
: Neon signs flicker at a 60 hertz rate, so fast shutter speeds are out.
: You'll need a tripod.  I recommend shutter speeds of .5 sec or faster.

Oh, good thing you pointed this out!  I guess small indoor neon signs are
powered differently from large outdoor ones (which use a step-up transformer).

I never even thought of this effect when I was photographing outdoor signs.
They do not seem to flicker.  I am not sure exactly why.

- Jay Ts
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: johno@sdd.hp.com (John Ongtooguk)
Subject: Re: illumination conversion wanted
Reply-To: johno@sdd.hp.com (John Ongtooguk)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 19:52:44 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.144635@sdd.hp.com>, johno@sdd.hp.com (John Ongtooguk) writes:
|> In article <ku6khnINN8ot@news.bbn.com>, koolish@BBN.COM (Richard M. Koolish) writes:
|> |> 
|> |> I need the conversion from microwatts/square centimeter to something
|> |> my light meter would read, like footcandles or lumens.
|> 
|>   I was browsing thru 'Vision: Human and Electronic' by A. Rose and came
|>   across the following:
|> 
|>   1 lumen of green light = 1.5 * 10^-3 watt
|>                          =   4 * 10^15 photons
|>   1 lumen of white light =   4 * 10^-3 watt  (dot over equal sign( approx?))
|>                          =       10^16 photons (dot over equal sign) 
|>   1 lumen/m^2 = 1 lux = 1 meter-candle (= is identical with) 
|>   1 lumen/ft^2 = 1 foot-candle = 10 lux (is identical, approx?)
|> 
|>   Well, that's more than you wanted, but maybe it will be useful.
|> 
|>   John Ongtooguk (johno@sdd.hp.com)

  As someone kindly pointed out the dummy who posted the above left 'second' 
  out of 'photons', the above needs to be stated:
  
  1 lumen of green light = 4 * 10^15 photons/second
  1 lumen of white light = 10^16 photons/second (approx)

  Sorry for any problems this may have caused.
 
  John Ongtooguk (johno@sdd.hp.com) 
From: tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 20:13:29 GMT
Subject: Re: shutter lockup - FM2
Organization: HP Scientific Instruments Division - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

In rec.photo, davidd@noaapmel.gov (David Doll) writes:


>  I was reading an older Nikon systems book and in the section dealing
>  with the FM2, they mentioned that the FM2 doesn't have a mirro lockup
>  button, but you can get by, by using the self timer and pushing the
>  sutter...something like this; I don't have the book in front of me.
>  Anyway it didn't make any sense to me. Could anyone offer if you
>  can/can't do a mirror lockup in a FM2. Thanks.

>  David

The mirror does not lock - meaning that you can't force it to go up
(in a random-access way), nor can you force it to stay up. What you
can do is release the mirror early, and 10 seconds later the shutter
fires, hopefully after the vibrations have died down. You do this by
using the self-timer. This technique applies to all versions of the
FM and all versions of the FE. Maybe FA as well?

tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com
From: peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 4 x 5 followup question
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:07:25 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO

Dave:

I have a Tachi (like Tim), mine being now 20yrs old, many
scars, many fine negs.  I use it with a 90, 120, 150, 161,
210...  I've also got Kodak's old wooden views, decendents
of the Century in 5x7, 8x10, and 11x14 (an actual Century).
With the old woodies you won't get all the controls you 
may need, shift and swing, tho you do get tilt and rise.
I would not suggest the old wooden Kodaks as your fist 
wiggly.  The B&Js are nice, and have sometimes considered
picking one up.  They seem rugged, but weighty and bulky,
possibly not well suited for a trek more than a few 
hundred feet from the car!  'Course whatever the limitation
these older cameras have is no where near a limiting as
wanting to shoot an 8x10 and not having a camera at all!

The Tachi is a great little view.  If you've got the 
money and dedication, I'd get a Wisner or Deardorf (but
this thread has been through that discussion).

Regards
  Peter Davidoff
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale
From: gsm@mendelson.com (Geoffrey S. Mendelson)
Subject: Outdated film for sale (cheap)
Organization: Mendelson Computer Consulting
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 06:00:20 GMT

I have the folowing film for sale:


Lot 1:

	Kodachrome Professional 120  ISO 64:
  
	Date	Number of rolls.

	1/88	10
	8/88	11
	3/89	17
	4/89	19

	Ektachrome  120 ISO 400

	8/84 	3	(used as filler)

$25.00 plus postage. That's less than 50 cents a roll! 

Lot 2:

	AgfaColor  120 ISO 1000

	8/88	10

	AgfaChrome 120 ISO 1000

	7/87	20

$15.00 plus postage. (50 cents a roll).

Lot 3:

	Kodak Etkachrome Duplicating film 5071

	100 feet 35mm	4/90

$10 plus postage.
Daylight balanced may be used outdoors for low contrast slides.


Lot 4:

	Fuji Neopan 400

	100 feet 35mm 5/90

$10 plus postage.

Lot 5:

	Orwo NP22 (tropical) (medium speed B&W)

	30 meters (98 feet) 35mm 6/90

$10. plus postage

Lot 6:

	Konica SRV3200 120

	10  12/89

$20.00 plus postage.

Terms and conditions:

The counts and expiration dates are approximate.

The 120 film is guarenteed to be rolls of 120 film in boxes.
The 35mm film is guarenteed to be a roll of 35mm film in a can.
 
No other guarentee or warranty is implied or stated. 

The usual legal stuff, etc.

How to buy this film:

1.	Send me email.

2. 	If the film has not been sold when I read your email, I will email 
	you my address and the weight of the film.

	If you wish, I will send the film COD, but that adds $4.50 to the 
	postage. :-(

	If you wish to avoid the COD charge send me a check for the
	film and estimated postage. When I receive the check, I will mail
	the film.


All packages will be mailed from Philadelphia, Pa.
I am not responsable for packages lost or eaten by the mail. I advise
you to include insurance with the postage. 

The best way to send any package under 2 lbs is via priority mail. It
will arrive in 2 days anywhere in the U.S. and costs < $3.00.

UPS ground to California takes 10 days and parcel post is longer.

I can send UPS, but I have to go to a packaging and shipping place who charges a
100% markup. (that's right, they double the price.)


Offers will be accepted, but I reserve the right to accept or reject them. 


Geoff.
-- 
Copyright (C) 1992, Geoffrey S. Mendelson.              All Rights Reserved.
Except for usenet followups, may not be reproduced without permsission. 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|                   |  Computer Software Consulting    |                   |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Geoffrey S. Mendelson                    Israel
geoffrey@mendelson.com                          or
mwcbbs!mailgsm!geoffrey                            Bust!
(215) 242-8712                          Looks like August now :-(
From: llew@coal.wpi.edu (Lew Yan Voon)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: stores in d.c. and nyc?
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:28:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: wpi.1992Apr13.192811.22269
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute

how about some good stores in both washington, d.c. and
new york city? in nyc, i'll be mainly in the manhattan
area. also, i'm looking for compact autofocus camera (not slr)
From: sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com (Steve Holzworth)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Amateur film processing at home.
Date: 6 Apr 92 21:51:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: unx.1992Apr6.215153.8807
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Originator: sch@gargoyle.unx.sas.com
X-Bytes: 2178

In article <HSONG.92Apr4152357@ardour.bellcore.com>, hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:
>I am curious.  Is it a good idea to do some film processing at home?

Consideration #1:
>I do not think I have a whole lot of terrific leasure time to spend to 
>do that kind of work as a hobbyist.
>I have looked at the price of some printing/enlarging equipments in the 
>mail-order house advertizements.   It is quite prohibitive to me.   Maybe, film

Consideration #2:
>developing/fixing/slide-mounting is not that complicated and is easy.
>

Consideration #3:
>Suppose that I do not want to sacrifice any processing quality by doing
>the job at home.  Doing it at home should be more economical than having
>a processing lab do the job.  How far can I go into world of amateur photo-
>processing pratically?  Some concrete figures for the total equipment costs
>will be helpful.
>

Consideration #4:
>I shoot one roll (36 exp) of 35 mm negatives per week,
>        one roll (36 exp) of 35 mm slides per month, and
>        one roll (9 exp) of 120 negatives per week by average.
>
>Thank you.
>
>	Hugh

In my opinion, given the volume (or lack thereof) you do (#4), it is much 
more effcient to allow a bulk processor to process film for you. My
local one hour place will process 36exp C-41 for $2.39, 15% less if
you are a commercial customer. Given the time it takes to actually
do the mechanics of film processing (#1), this is a GREAT buy. They have a
nice, expensive machine do the processing, and they do a good job of
maintaining process calibration (#3). I DO, however, print my own work.
I also have a tabletop processor to process my prints. Face it, despite
the relative ease of processing (#2), and with a few exceptions, processing 
(color) film or paper is a rote task. There just aren't alot of variables
involved. Black and white offers more creative aspects to the processing,
but takes a while to become good at (#1). You would probably get more
enjoyment out of PRINTING (enlarging, cropping, color/contrast balancing)
than you would PROCESSING.

Atypical sizes (4x5) or processes (?) may HAVE to be processed at home.

Steve Holzworth
sch@unx.sas.com
From: good@pixar.com (Reality is just a convenient measure of complexity)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: photog. in Nat'l/State Parks etc.
Date: 12 Apr 92 09:56:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pixar -- Point Richmond, California

In article <f43y02fMc4tD00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com> bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) writes:
:
:Apparently there *is* something going on here.  At a recent workshop wiht
:Ray McSavaney he told of a couple of incidents which were very disturbing
:to me.  Apparently at some or more California State Parks professional
:photographers are now being required to obtain permits.  

A few years ago I got hassled in China Camp State Park (in Marin County) as
I was shooting my friend's girlfriend for her book.  I had an RZ-67, tripod,
and a bunch of stuff.  I suppose anybody could be forgiven for mistaking me
for a professional.  When I convince the Ranger that this was not a paid job
and that it was all coming out of my pocket (the truth then -- *now* I charge
money) he grudgingly let me continue and warned that he'd better not see these
images published anywhere.

This gave me the distinct impression that commercial photography in State
Parks requires a permit mostly to get a release.  I imagine it also has to
do with staffing, making sure it won't interfere with others in the park, etc.
All that seems quite reasonable on the surface.  But if the State doesn't go
out of its way to make it easy to get the permit, then they're just being...

Oh, I forgot.  Anyway, this also reminded me that both the Feds and the State
ruin any park they grab.  I also happen to resent the idea that I now have to
pay just to get in to China Camp.  And it used to be such a nice little place.

		--Craig
-- 
"... history shows that all conquerors who have allowed their
subjected peoples to carry arms have prepared their own fall."
	-- Adolph Hitler, March 18, 1938.
From: kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com (Ken J. McFadden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Scanner info for Don..
Date: 17 Apr 92 17:21:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Unisys Corporation, Tredyffrin

In article <34313@unix.SRI.COM> madson@unix.SRI.COM (Carl Madson) writes:

>[to Don Smith, et al.] : I've been trying to ship my Microtek scanner descrip-
>tion via 'normal channels', to Noah Vail. Can't seem to get it up to Seattle..
>(I should just print it and mail it!?) I'll try one more option; I haven't
>forgotten about your questions..

>BTW, for anyone else who's curious, I have the Microtek 1850S slide scanner and
>have just started playing with it. If you have questions, I'll try to answer
>them and maybe post with general answers. Keep in mind that I'm in the middle
>of moving, so I don't have access to everything right now..

>[I get my own office in the new house, PLUS a room for shooting! Yow.]

>		--Carl Madson, SRI International, Menlo Park, CA

I was just at a free seminar sponsored by Apple yesterday and got to see
demos of Adobe Photo Shop and Premier.  Photo Shop looks like a lot of fun!
I asked a bunch of silly questions yesterday and am only now beginning to
think of some intelligent ones to ask, like:

 - After scanning in slide(s) and manipulating them into a final image, what's
   about the largest practical size print you can make?

 - Since the above question has to do with the resolution of the scanner,
   which scanners have the best resolution?  I have seen B&H's add for
   the 1850S bundled with Photo Shop.  Nikon also makes a rediculously
   expensive scanner.  And there's also the option of just buying Photo
   Shop and having slides put on Photo CD by my local lab.  Are there
   other scanning options?  Which has the best resolution and which has the
   best resolution per dollar?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ken McFadden        kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com
Unisys Corporation  kjm@cnmsa.tredydev.unisys.com
P.O. Box 203        work: (215) 648-3742
Paoli, PA 19301     home: (215) 675-0382
From: glporter@zeus.calpoly.edu (Glen Porter)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Anyone have ANY Comments about the SIGMA 400mm f5.6 APO Lense?????
Date: 9 Apr 92 02:47:17 GMT
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo



I am about to buy one . . . .  Does anyone have ANY thoughts or comments???


I will be very thankfull for any help on the matter.

Thanks in advance!


-Glen

-- 
glporter@hebe.calpoly.edu                  (Glen Porter)     *
California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo     *
Network Administration - Technician                          *
Electronic Engineering                              Gal 2:16 *
Newsgroups: rec.photo,can.general,misc.legal
From: buckland@ucs.ubc.ca (Tony Buckland)
Subject: Re: What is required to sell pictures?
Organization: University of B.C. Computing Services
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 17:35:29 GMT

In article <1992Apr07.144944.17626@bmerh2.bnr.ca> lavoie@bnr.ca (Marc Lavoie) writes:
>In article <10417@ncrcan.Canada.NCR.CA>, tnelson@ncrcan.Canada.NCR.CA (Tim Nelson) writes:
>|> I want to start a small business selling some of my hobby photos, but
>|> I wonder what the legal restrictions would be in selling pictures with
>|> other people in them.
>Tim,
>As far as I know, if there are people in your photos, you must have
>them sign a release form ...
>The only case where this does not apply is for pictures where people are
>not recognizable (too fuzzy, too far...) or if the pictures were taken
>at an open event ...
>This is the exception that allows television station to broadcast footage
>of events without getting a release from everybody.
>Hope some legal type can enlighten us a bit more.

 This corresponds to my (layperson's) understanding.  But I'd like to
 add to our question to "some legal type" a request for clarification
 of the line between ordinary people and newsworthy individuals.
 I don't think we'd expect Brian M. to sign, or have to sign, a release
 for a picture of him tripping over his tongue or some dog-doo, or
 Madonna for a super-long-telephoto of her at a nude beach.
From: x91abdul3@gw.wmich.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Tokina lenses query
Date: 7 Apr 92 01:45:49 EST
Organization: Western Michigan University

Hi there!

I need some recomendation from the net regarding lenses. I'm currently
using 4004s with tokina AF 28-70 f2.8-4.5. But I feel I need more speed
and i'm wondering of getting tokina ATX 28-70 f2.8 constant. Any 
suggestions? 
I also have a nikkor 80-200 f4.0 but also think the extra speed
of a tokina 80-200 ATX f2.8 would be useful.

Any comments would be appreciated. Are the lenses above any good are justfied
in replacing the ones I have?
From: az1@ukc.ac.uk (A.Zafar)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon 6006 (F-601) price
Date: 13 Apr 92 04:02:28 GMT
Organization: Computing Lab, University of Kent at Canterbury, UK.


	Could someone tell me how much the Nikon 601 costs in the USA or more
importantly Dubai duty free shop? A friend of mine plans to buy it with a
35-70 mm Nikor lens. I would be grateful if someone could mail me the price of
the body only as well as with the lens (all prices including taxes, etc).
Thanks in advance.

--
			 - Aman Zafar 			_   /|
			 - University of Kent 		\'o.O'
			 - England. 			=(___)=	
							   U
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mfriedel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Michael John Friedel)
Subject: Cambridge Photo...
Summary: Are they a good place to purchase from?
Originator: mfriedel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Keywords: Cambridge, darkroom, cambron
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 04:06:39 GMT

  I'm looking into putting a darkroom into a bathroom in my house, so now I
have begun to look at mail-order retailers.  So far, Cambridge Camera
Exchange has the best deal.  Something like $239 or so for an Omega c700 
enlarger and a grabbag of accessories. (Enlarger, 50mm lens, neg carrier, 
lens board(?), Enlarging easel, thermometer, dev. tank, 2 squeegees, adj. dev.
reel, enlarger focusing aide (a mirror?  hmm..), fixer, 3 8x10 trays, darkroom
lamp, enlarging paper, 4 tongs, film clips, base board, film dev., paper
dev., darkroom design book.)  But my question is: Can I trust Cambridge?
I'm not trying to start a flame war here, just wondering if anyone has had a
really bad time with Cambridge.
  Please reply in e-mail, if you've got any experience.  (or better deals :)
  Thanks, 
    Mike
(mfriedel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu)

-- 
(Michael John Friedel)     | 
mfriedel@csd4.csd.uwm.edu  | 
University of Wisconsin -  | 
Milwaukee                  |
From: shankar@are.Berkeley.EDU (Shankar Subramanian)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: source for lithium camera batteries
Date: 7 Apr 92 23:01:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: agate.rt9khINNeth
Distribution: ca
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: are.berkeley.edu

I made the mistake of buying one of those damn point and shoot cameras
(a Minolta) that requires a 6 V lithium battery (type 2CR5) which costs
$20 at the local hardware store.  Is there some place I can get it for less?
Secondly, is there some way of using cheaper batteries or rechargeables
instead of the lithium battery?  Of course, one wouldn't get as many flashes
out of a non-lithium battery, but the cost/flash might be substantially lower.

I seldom read this group and would appreciate replies by e-mail.

thanks,

Shankar Subramanian
(shankar@are.berkeley.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.photo