From: simnet@plato.ds.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson)
Subject: Re: Antilock brakes on new Dodge Grand Caravan SE?
Summary: SHould I get antilock brakes?
Keywords: antilock brakes, options
Organization: Boeing Defense & Space Group
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:39:33 GMT

cerulean@access.digex.com (Bill Christens-Barry) writes:
> Can anyone give me an informed opinion about whether I should get the anti-
> lock brake option on a new Dodge Grand Caravan SE I plan on buying new from
> a dealer?  The cost (invoice) is around $510.
> 
> The standard brakes are disc/drum (front/rear, I think), and the van weighs
> around 3900 lbs.  I don't know how long the antilock braking system has
> existed, but I'd like to hear why I'd be much safer with it than people were
> before it existed.  In other words, is it a gimmick aimed at recent safety
> awareness?

Antilock brakes are no gimmick. They are most useful for people who are not
very aware of vehicle handling, but are still useful for expert drivers who are
mentally overloaded (tired, with screaming children, or bad weather). If you
don't know why one would want ABS then you should probably get it.

Basically antilock brakes will allow you to steer no matter how hard you've
mashed the brake pedal. The ability to avoid obstacles is always a good thing
and ABS also helps prevent a spin out in slippery conditions. You will get
much more controlled stopping than a non-ABS car when the road has patches of
ice. The ABS vehicle will also stop shorter on dry pavement than a non-ABS
vehicle that has locked up its tires or when your vehicle is loaded very
unevenly.  Whether this increase in saftey is worth the $500 price is a
question only you can answer. ABS vehicles may have higher maintenance/repair
costs than a simpler non-ABS car.

> Also, any comments on the neede for the heavy duty trailer/towing package that
> includes heavy duty alternator, battery, oil cooler, radiator, flashers, and
> a trailer wiring harness?  I may occasionally pull a popup camper (I don't
> know its weight but its not especially large).  The engine is a 3.3 liter
> 6-cylinder.

As a matter of principle I would always take this option. There is no
difference between a heavily laded vehicle in normal conditions and a normal
vehicle in extreme conditions -- i.e. a ride through Arizona in the summer with
the AC on will be easier on your vehicle if you have the heavy duty cooling
hardware. Heavy duty electrics let you go a little longer before the system
fails or let you add a killer stereo, powerful ham radio, or highpowered
headlights/driving lights.

Also, the Caravan can't tow a "heavy" trailer by my definition. Many trailers
are 1000 pounds and its easy to hit 3000. A 3000 pound trailer on a caravan
(which I think is the most it can pull anyway) would most definitely need the
towing hardware. You'll thank yourself for just the wiring harness and hitch
if you plan on pulling ANY trailer EVER. These are a pain to install and
usually worth the cheap price the factory asks.

> Finally, what about overall price and negotiating strategy.  I called several
> dealers and told them I had data on their invoice prices and wanted them to
> fax me prices they would honor.  I told them I would wait let them order a
> van rather than buy one from their stock, thinking this would make it more
> attractive for them.  Several dealers said they would be willing to do this.
> Should I ask for a bid that does not include the factory rebates that I've
> heard advertised recently, or should I let them quote a price that includes
> the rebates?

Factory order is usually the cheapest route (and you get exactly and only what
you want). They will be reluctant to quote a price assuming a factory rebate
because the rebates change and usually the rebate in effect on the date of
delivery is the rebate you get. Make sure their quote just says something like
"customer is to receive all factory rebates in effect at time of delivery".

		Mark