HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Running on 3 cyls?
Date: 14 Oct 92 13:40:15 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <1992Oct14.010207.3808@morrow.stanford.edu>, GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullivan) writes:
> The other way is to remove and inspect plugs, a wet, gas soaked plug
> means no workee.  If it's oil soaked, possible hole in piston or bad
> ring?

or a bad valve guide

> 
> Mike
> 
> 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: adam@arcadia.mc.phillip.edu.au (Adam Eberbach)
Subject: Smoke on starting? Beetle 1600
Organization: Dept. Maths and Computing, RMIT (Bundoora) Vic. Aust.
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 01:56:50 GMT

I've noticed that recently my 66 Beetle, with 1600 fitted, has started to
produce clouds of blue smoke when it is started after a period of more
than 6 hours or so turned off. It looks like oily smoke, and smells it
too. 
Anyone have any idea what is causing this, and if it's a serious
problem? If so, where do I start looking?
 
Adam Eberbach adam@arcadia.mc.phillip.edu.au
From: zeffj@unvax.union.edu (Jeremy M. Zeff)
Subject: lagrangj@union
Summary: PURPLE 1973 vw camper for sale
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:40:02 GMT

My purple 1973 type two (camper) is for sale.  It has only 6000 miles on the rebuilt engine, a new alternator, good canvas, good brakes, a loud stereo, and a good trans.  It runs excellently - very strong - no problems.  It would be easy to make it show ready.  I'd like $2700 (will dicker) or to trade for a Beetle or Ghia of similiar value.  It's great for touring or being the center of attention.  E-mail me at lagrangj@union.
From: mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Driving Cars to the ground
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:34:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: cc.8OCT199212343313
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1

It seems to me that all of the problems on the cars that are talked about are 
just driven to the ground.  100k miles and only 4 years old? WOW!  Where do you 
guys drive?  Across the country every year?  Please for those of you who are 
about to flame the hell out of me I AM NOT CRITICIZING! I wish that I had the 
time and the bucks to do the kind of driving you guys do.  But it seems to me 
that alot of these problems that you talk about arise not from general bad 
design of the car but pure and simple wear and tear that comes with 100k+ miles 
of driving the car.

My apologies to any that I have offended or hate me for my comments.
From: mike@Software.Mitel.COM (Michael Cocks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: re: Engine stalls in morning
Date: 13 Oct 92 17:08:59 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Mitel Corporation, 350 Legget Drive, Kanata, Ontario. K2K 1X3.


Hi

I have the exact problem with an 88 Scirroco (8v). I thought it may
be the oxygen sensor. What I was planning on doing was trying a
new fuel additive that I have seen in the stores that apparently 
cleans the Oxygen sensor and the Catalytic convertor.

Any comments or opinions would be welcome.

regards

Mike
From: tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Driving Cars to the ground
Date: 13 Oct 92 14:25:46 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

In <1992Oct13.070954.25290@trl.oz.au> c.oneill@trl.oz.au (Chris O'Neill) writes:

>>Vehicles COULD be made to last 

>They are.  The main variable affecting maintainence costs is how much the owner
>knows about car maintainence - not whether he actually works on it.  Car
>maintainence is costly when people neglect to attend to something until it
>becomes much more costly to fix or when they allow themselves to be ripped off
>by car repairers.


Not necessarily.  Has anyone else ever owned a Chevy Chevette from the early
1980's?

-- 
|Tom Guptill           | tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu  (internet)  |
|CPU Box 277445 U of R |  "    " @db1.cc.rochester.edu (alt internet) |
|Rochester, NY 14627   |  "    " @uordbv (bitnet)                     |
|(716) 274-0156        |                                              |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange)
Subject: air-cooled
Summary: How Do You water-cooled types feel about air-cooled?
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 15:12:40 GMT

Well, did a lot of you water-cooled people own air-cooleds before?  Is there a sense of long term VW loyalty?  Is any body out there embarrassed to see a beat Type Two or a humble Beetle?  Just wondering.  Post replies, please.
From: rulon@ibms4.scri.fsu.edu (Phil Rulon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Need Scirroco gauges
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:42:56 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

I'm looking around for an early Scirroco instrument cluster in servicable
shape. There's a guy in town that wants $100 for one.  I've seen whole 
parts cars in the Sunday paper for twice that so I think he's being
unreasonable.  If anybody has one to part with, email me and we'll
work something out.

Phil Rulon                                   rulon@mailer.scri.fsu.edu
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
Florida State University
Tallahassee                                  audio  (904) 644 7008
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: more golf III tidbits
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 16 Oct 92 09:23:27 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <Oct15.195650.13850@engr.washington.edu> eliot@engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>
>
>- VW has finally provided a cup holder for the car.  it even has a nice
>  tea cup symbol on it.  however, its location behind the center armrest
>  means that it is probably meant more for the rear passengers than the
>  driver.  i don't believe in drinking and driving anyway, alcoholic or
>  non-alcoholic.  seems like vw feels the same way.  i think that the
>  goons at C&D are going to be burning the golf at the stake for this.
>
>
>eliot

Actually, in many US states it is illegal to do anything
with your hands other than driving. Both of your hands
are to be on the steering wheel other than for changing gears
and doing other things related to driving. (As yours truly
found out during a driving test...)

If you want to follow the letter of the law strictly, you are
not to smoke, eat, drink, read maps, read the morning paper,
and other things we used to do in high school while driving.

VW, trying to be Umweltfreundlich and law abiding therefore
does not want to encourage you to break the law by temping
you with cup holders :-> (What about the temptation of an SLC, though?)

Jan

-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ptrei@bistromath.mitre.org (Peter Trei)
Subject: Re: Driving Cars to the ground
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 13:48:15 GMT

In article <8OCT199212343313@cc.utah.edu> mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory) writes:
>It seems to me that all of the problems on the cars that are talked about are 
>just driven to the ground.  100k miles and only 4 years old? WOW!  Where do 
>you guys drive?  Across the country every year?  Please for those of you who 
>are about to flame the hell out of me I AM NOT CRITICIZING! I wish that I had 
>the time and the bucks to do the kind of driving you guys do.  But it seems to
>that alot of these problems that you talk about arise not from general bad me 
>design of the car but pure and simple wear and tear that comes with 100k+ 
>miles of driving the car.

...it just adds up. Look at my case.

Each day I drive 40 miles to work. Going back, I drive 50 (I pick up
my kid from daycare). That's 90 miles a day, about 3/4 highway (and
yes, as fast as is prudent: I spend too much of my life in the car
as it is).

Which is 450 miles a week

49 working weeks a year gives 22050 miles/year for commuting *alone*.

Add in shopping, trips, and running to the quickimart for milk, and you
get up over 25,000/year very easily. 

1986 VW GTI 156,000 miles. Clutch, fuel pump, water pump, catalytic
convertor, idle control unit, all replaced once. Brake disks twice,
new tires every 18-24 months. Fuel tank and heater core replaced under
recall.

I put about $2500 in repairs into the car each year (I don't have time
to do them myself). If it gets much more, it'll exceed costs on a new
car, and I'll junk it.

Vehicles COULD be made to last - try asking a trucker how many miles
he expects to get out of a tractor unit.

						Peter Trei
						ptrei@Mitre.org
From: tcritchl@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Tod Critchlow)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Door Locks('71)
Date: 11 Oct 92 01:30:01 GMT


Hello out there,

I am looking for some help regarding door locks on my
'71 Van.  I recently had some new door handles put on my van. 
The old locks had either been punched out
or just broken.  The mechanic that put them in claims
that they work OK.  They don't.  
To get them to accept the key after they have been locked
is a pain and assumes that nobody has tried to open 
the door while it was locked.  Half of the time I
am unable to unlock the new locks and have to use 
the back hatch to get into the vehicle.

Does anybody have a solution?
Has anybody else had this problem?

Thanks,
tod


-- 
_____________________________________________________________________
Tod Critchlow(tcritchl@ucsd.edu)      |  What the Hell is a
Univ of Calif, San Diego              |  Signature anyways??
Scripps Institution of Oceanography   | 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eric@quantum.on.ca (Eric Johnson)
Subject: Re: For GTI (8V) owners
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 04:46:57 GMT
Organization: Quantum Software Systems

In article <1992Oct12.163815.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> cl128219@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
>> 	o What is your gas mileage? I get about 28 mpg (~ 8.2l/100km)
>
>  About 30mpg on the highway and 25 around town.  Of course I don't dog it 
>ALL the time ;)
>
>> 	o What gas do you use? The manual says 87 octane is fine, but
>> mine is knocking, and I try to use 90. It seems that even 89 isn't good
>> enough.
>
>  I put only 92 octane in mine (the highest I can get around here) and I have
>had no problems with any pre-ignition knock.
>

This should be an FAQ but an improperly torqued knock sensor can cause
the sensor to not function correcly resulting in knock  and/or loss of
power. The engine is designed to handle quite poor grades of gasoline -
i.e. stuff you would get in 3rd world countries. If it is knocking and
you haven't just encountered a tank of bad gas, there is something wrong.

Of course, if the original poster was just barely avoiding knock at 90
then maybe he wouldn't want to fix it... sounds just about ideal to me :-)

Hmm another idea - if the car is running with an advanced ignition (standard
trick for a wee bit more power) it may be advanced too far.




-- 
Eric Johnson (eric@quantum.qnx.com or try eric@quantum.on.ca)
Technical Development, Quantum Software Systems Ltd (QNX OS)
From: eliot@engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: more golf III tidbits
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:01:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: engr.Oct15.195650.13850
Organization: University of Washington


several more tidbits about the new golf gl that i saw:

- twin radiator fans.  if they both work together, that would mean less
  noise.  it also means that on a hot 90 degree day when you're stuck in
  traffic, the air conditioning will be doing a better job.  i think the
  car also has a non CFC compressor, something that saab is currently
  bragging about lots.

- unfortunately, the alternator is a british made Lucas with a "Bosch"
  sticker stuck on it.  this generated the biggest laughs at the dealer
  among the mechanics and service adviser types.  Imagine, a VW with a
  Lucas alternator!!

- VW has finally provided a cup holder for the car.  it even has a nice
  tea cup symbol on it.  however, its location behind the center armrest
  means that it is probably meant more for the rear passengers than the
  driver.  i don't believe in drinking and driving anyway, alcoholic or
  non-alcoholic.  seems like vw feels the same way.  i think that the
  goons at C&D are going to be burning the golf at the stake for this.


eliot
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 76 bus engine compartment
Date: 14 Oct 92 13:38:47 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <keqrZym00WB2NPRSxz@andrew.cmu.edu>, David James Madden <dm4f+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
> 
> I am thinking of cutting the rear deck above the engine and welding
> flanges on it in order to have more access to my engine compartment.
> 
> This would leave the area wide open with the upper cover removed and the
> rear hood removed too.
> 
> Imagine, turn a couple of latches, lift off rear deck with hood atached,
> and instant access to the engine. No more contortions involved in weekly
> engine work.
> 
> My question concerns structural integerity of the rear body. As I will
> be cutting through the section of reinforced metal in the extreme rear,
> and reconnecting with a couple of bolts, will this hold up? Also has
> anyone tried this? Results?
> 
> 

I considered doing something like this to my '77 bus.  What I was going to do
was weld the hatch down, then cut the top and weld/rivet/bolt it together so
that it was basically a 90 degree lid with hinges in front of the hatch (by the
door, and pins to latch it at the bottom of the deck lid (like the kind
hot-rodders use to hold down their hoods.  The whole mess would swing up and
forward for access.  Since you could bolt/pin it down when finished, the
structure would retain much of its integrity.  The reason I didn't do this was
money/time, and the fact that I probably couldn't make it look very
professional.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: maxc1189@ucselx.sdsu.edu (Ivan Z. Padilla)
Subject: VW Salvage Yard
Keywords: VW Golf
Organization: SDSU Computing Services
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 00:29:27 GMT

Hello!         

I need some parts for my Golf, 1985. Do you know of some
Salvage yards and/or a good VW autoparts store in San Diego,
California?

Thanks

Ivan Padilla
e-mail: maxc1189@ucselx.sdsu.edu
From: david@rivendell.West.Sun.COM (David Flinn - Sun SFValley - 818-905-0200)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: ?? 87 Jetta, wierd noises from brakes/transmission
Keywords: jetta, brakes, transmission
Date: 12 Oct 92 21:15:10 GMT
Reply-To: david@rivendell.West.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: rivendell.west.sun.com

Hi,

I just spend $350 to fix a "noise" and the garage replaced the CV joint,
which was nice, but did not solve my original problem.  I was wondering...

my jetta has 92,000 miles and is an 1987.  It's been great and reliable,
but when I put it in reverse, the front end makes a rattling noise.  Once
I put it into 1-5, it works great and so I think it's my brakes.  Any 
hints ??

Hopefully, the next couple hundred dollars will fix the REAL problem, not
a future one.

Thanks,

david



================--------========================--------
david flinn		sun microsystems
systems engineer	encino, california
818-379-3417		david.flinn@West.Sun.COM
================--------========================--------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ari@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ari Ollikainen)
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 19:26:27 GMT

In article <18691.2ad2cc73@ecs.umass.edu> sylveste@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>
>  I have to admit that I don't know much about Volvo (Audi is my speciality)
>but Volvo did use an Audi 5 cylinder in one of their models in the early
>eighties.  I believe that it was the 240.  I have seen one.
>

It's true that you saw an engine that *appeared* to *you* like an Audi
5cylinder BUT you apparently did not stop to look closely enough to 
acertain the number of cylinders...That diesel engine in the "early 
eighties...240.." was the 6cylinder diesel from the VW LT72 I referred
to in my previous post. 

How do I know this?

I *OWNED* a 1982 VOLVO GL DIESEL sedan! 

Any questions? I *also* owned, for a short time, a Westfalia SvenHedin
motorhome based on the VW LT72 platform which was *also* powered by the 
same 6 cylinder diesel engine...

Ari Ollikainen
( Too many Volks, too little time)



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lesnyd@monsanto.com (Larry E. Snyder)
Subject: Re: Recommendation Needed for VW Van Purchase
Organization: DSC
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 21:23:55 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.035418.12965@csi.jpl.nasa.gov>, eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred) writes:
> 
> In article <1992Oct7.091156.4532@bb1t.monsanto.com> bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
> >In article <1assemINNhg0@agate.berkeley.edu>, ferenc@hera.Berkeley.EDU (Ferenc Kovac) writes:
> >> Hello.
> >> I am interested in purchasing a VW van for commute usage, primarily.
> >> Camping and family outings would be a nice bonus, but I don't think
> >> I need to haul a stove, frig, sink, etc. most of the time.
> >> What I would like is some experienced useful advice on what models/years
> >> to stay away from and also which to seek.
> >
> 
> From what I have heard, the early water cooled Vanagons ('83 on) had all
> sorts of problems with overheating, water pump failures, and water leaks.
> So unless you get better information, I would stay away from at least the
> early waterboxer Vanagons.  Also engine work on these must be astronomically
> expensive, as this is the only car this engine is used on, and this car
> isn't very common.
> 
DO NOT BUY A 1983 OR 1984 WATERBOXER VANAGON! Why?

1. Once the engine get a little too warm, your head gaskets are history.
   Only a few hundred dollars (!) for the gaskets, but you have to drop the
   engine to replace them. It cost me $1200 to have it done. My engine got
   too warm when the radiator fan fuse corroded and the fan didn't come on
   in traffic. After that, coolant began to disappear mysteriously. I
   finally figured out that the coolant was blowing out the tailpipe.

2. Parts are not high, they are INSANE! What would you expect to pay for
   a complete set of radiator hoses?  Try $800!  Starter - $250. Need I
   go on? There are NO aftermarket parts for this vehicle. You have to
   visit your friendly VW dealer, who apologizes as he charges you downright
   immoral prices for parts.

I don't know about succeeding years. I understand that the overheating
problems have been addressed, but I'll bet that parts prices are still obscene.

I think I'll go back to the old bus...

Larry

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: Removing Instrument Cluster, '84 Rabbit
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:26:29 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.201005.19345@schbbs.mot.com> CMSC28@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Mark Hickey) writes:
>------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
>In article <5299@sumax.seattleu.edu> atosswil@sumax.seattleu.edu (Andy Tosswill)
>writes:
>>>Folks,
>>>  Well, my odometer has finally stopped working altogether and I need t
>>>fix/replace it. I read the Bentley manual on removing the instrument custer
>>>and it seems straightforward. However, upon actually trying it, I ran nto some
>>>problems.
>>>
>>>  Specifically, the cluster seems too large in the vertical dimension t
>>>come out of the dash easily, and the assorted wires and cables attache to the
>>>back don't make matters any easier.
>>>
>>>  Does anyone out there have any experience or helpful hints on removin
>>>the instrument cluster?
>>>
>>>-- Andy
>>>
>
>>You have to remove the speedo cable first.  Access it from underneath te
>>dash after removing the trim panel.  It's not real easy but it's possibe.
>>The wiring harness is very easy to remove once the cluster is mostly ou.
>
>>   - Dan
>
>You'll find you'll probably have to put enough torque on the instrument
>clulster to worry about trashing it before the dash gives it up, though.
>There's only about one angle the thing will come out at, and - sorry -
>I don't remember what it is.... although my speedo just died with about
>250K miles on the clock.  Guess I'll remember soon, huh?
>Mark Hickey

Huh? With the speedo cable off, you rotate it to the right angle and
it just comes out without any problems.  I've done it several times
(twice to do work on the radio mount, and once to disable the oxygen
sensor light), and I just haven't had a problem.  I'm referring to
an '84 Rabbit, if that makes any difference.

	- Dan
From: winders@aux.support.apple.com (Scott Winders)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: I need advice on '82 and '84 Porsche 928's
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:20:30 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc.

In article <1992Oct6.203911.29061@viewlogic.com>, brad@buck.viewlogic.com
(Bradford Kellogg) wrote:
> 
> 
> There are 3 things to remember about the Porsche 928:
> 
> 1. The maintenance cost is astronomical
> 2. It costs an enormous amount to maintain
> 3. You need much disposable income to maintain it
> 
> If you're in a mood to spend alot of money keeping a powerful exotic,
> you might also consider a Maserati 228 or a Jaguar XJS. They have 
> much more fanciful interiors than the 928, which (in a perverse sort 
> of way) might better justify the cost of owning one (if there is any
> justification). 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> BK

1. True, if you take it to a dealer.
2. True, if you take it to a dealer.
3. True, if you take it to a dealer.

You can save a lot of money by taking a 928 to a third-party mechanic.

Why do people participating in this group have such negative attitudes
towards cars like Porsches?

Scott Winders
winders@aux.support.apple.com

"My opinions are my own, not my employer's"
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: tuckera@fraser.sfu.ca (Christopher Tucker)
Subject: Electric/Solar Electric Cars
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 00:18:29 GMT

Could anyone with information regarding Electric and/or Solar Electric Cars
please e-mail me?

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com (Dances With Bikers)
Subject: Re: Petro Jelly on terminals
Reply-To: blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 21:14:53 GMT

ebuhwe@ebu.ericsson.se (Per Harwe) writes:

>I must have been very lucky buying the right batches of Vaseline the last
>25 years, all of it has worked perfectly on my batteries. No corrosion,
>great conductivity. Isn't it time we bury the legend that Vaseline is a
>non-conductor?

But it IS a non-conductor. However when you tighten down the terminals
you're getting metal-metal contact. The Vaseline or dielectric grease
simply prevents corrosion by coating what would otherwise be exposed to
air/water/whatever.
-- 
Blaine Gardner @ Evans & Sutherland  blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com  BIX:blaine_g
580 Arapeen Drive, SLC, Utah 84108           Favorite road signs:
Dumper of Dirtbikes #46             FJ1200   Winding Road Next 77 Miles
My other motorcycle is a Quadracer           Caution: Passing Areas Not Marked