HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rkimball@athena.qualcomm.com (Robert Kimball)
Subject: Re: Water Pressure Regulators
Organization: Qualcomm, Inc., San Diego, CA
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 05:19:17 GMT

rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr) writes:

>Has anybody ever installed a water pressure regulator on their main water
>line entering the house?  Are there any benefits to lowering & regulating
>the water pressure, e.g., easier on valves & faucets.  I have monitored my
>home water pressure and it is about 70-85 psig.  At the local home supply,
>a 1" regulator is about $65.00.

>If a regulator is installed, what is the preferred pressure?

>Thanks
>Rob Starr

I just had that done to my house.  My pressure was over 90psi and I was
a little worried.  Two things I heard which may or may not be true...
1) Pressure over 80psi in a house is to code.  2) Pressure over 80psi
may invalidate the warranty on some household appliances.

I have my regulator set at about 60psi.

I had mine installed by a professional plumber since I don't have the
time to spend doing it myself.


-- 
rkimball@qualcomm.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lg@leg.b11.ingr.com (Larry Goodman)
Subject: Re: Icemaker problem
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:59:59 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.011517.8179@wybbs.mi.org>, ken@wybbs.mi.org (Ken Jongsma) writes:
|> rgreen@brtph633.bnr.ca (Rodney Green P125) writes:
|> 
|> >I have a refrigerator equipped with icemaker that has recently had
|> >a couple of strange problems.
|> 
|> >First some history:
|> >   Before we moved about 6 months ago, the icemaker worked perfectly,
|> >   making nice full ice cubes and dumping nearly all of them in the
|> >   ice bin.  The icemaker was connected to cold water supply using
|> >   copper plumbing.
|> 
|> >Now, the ice cubes are usually small, often hollow, and the icemaker
|> >shoots them all around the freezer instead of into the bin.  The
|> >plumbing is now plastic tubing instead of copper, but the inside
|> >diameter of the tubing is the same as the copper before.  Another
|> >difference in our current house is that we now have community water
|> >with much less pressure than the city water we had at our last house.
|> 
|> >Any ideas?  Should I replace the plastic tubing with copper?
|> 

I had a similar problem with my ice cubes being small and hollow and the
problem was that the shutoff valve going to the icemaker was not open
enough and was not allowing the tray to fill with water. I didn't experience
the cubes being "shot" around the freezer but I did notice a lot of accumulation
of ice on the fingers that push the cubes out. Maybe that could cause some
binding and "shooting".


===============================================================================
     Larry Goodman            lg@leg.b11.ingr.com
===============================================================================
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: Re: T1-11  What is it?
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 22:04:08 GMT

In article <3506@voodoo.UUCP> howie@voodoo.boeing.com (howie) writes:
>Just curious.  Anybody know about this for siding.  How good is it?

It's plywood constructed to look like siding.  It works.  It's considered
a little tacky on a home by realtors.  Smurfit, L-P, G-P and others
make pressboard stuff that looks the same (sometimes called Masonite
siding).  T1-11 is unprimed, the other sidings come primed.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
From: brennan@hal.com (Dave Brennan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Financing new home inspection
Date: 17 Dec 92 23:50:50 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: HaL Computer Systems, Austin, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: hysteria.hal.com
In-reply-to: tvervaek@col.hp.com's message of 13 Dec 92 05:05:45 GMT

>>>>> On 13 Dec 92 05:05:45 GMT, tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke) said:

> Definitely hire a reputable, professional, home inspector. Make sure you
> get a well written report. Allow you builder to be present when the
> inspection is done if you feel comfortable with that.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that under FHA rules one can finance
the cost of an inspector.  Does this apply if I choose to hire my own
inspector, or only for the inspector hired by the lender?  I really need to
finance as much as possible and definitely want to verify the quality of
the house.

--
Dave Brennan                                      HaL Computer Systems
brennan@hal.com                                         (512) 794-2855
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjp@sloth.mlb.semi.harris.com (Pat J. Pinchera)
Subject: Wnat information on (Home) Floor Safes
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 14:15:05 GMT
Organization: Interface & Control Systems, Inc., Melbourne FL

Subject almost says it all. Floor safes for the home, not real large,
they go in the foundation.  I'll probably put it in.......maybe I better
not say :-)

Any recommendations on brand, location, installation tips, where can I
buy one for less than retail (i.e mail order)?  Post here or e-mail.
Thanks.

Pat
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: I was dive bombed by a bat!
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 16:46:04 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.234448.2382@advtech.uswest.com> jsims@uswest.com (John Sims) writes:
>
>Anyway if there are any net.bat.experts out there, I'm wondering:

All my info comes from some Natural History articles and the blurb that
came with my bat house.

>1) Do bats move in packs, are there likely to be more of them in my house?
>   (Scenes from horror movies come flooding to my mind.)

Yeah, well the horror movies are trash; bats are actually quite nice little
critters. They are communal, so it's possible that there's a colony in the
attic. They prefer nests 10-15' above ground near water. The small ones
like 70 degrees or more in the nest (most of which they provide with body
heat).

>2) What would a bat nest look like and what should I do if I find one?

Nests are generally any vertical space about as wide as the bat's body.
Considering the insane reaction of most people, you probably won't do
what you *should* do (which is leave them alone). I would simply make
sure they can't get into the main area of the house.

>3) What attracts bats and how do you get rid of them?

Depends on the species. Most of them eat bugs, some eat fruit, and there's
a South American species that eats fish. The infamous vampire bat is also
limited to South America, so you probably have a fruit bat, judging by the
size. This time of year, they ought to be either headed South or hibernating.

>4) Based on the bats size, is this an adult or a baby bat?

Depends on the species. Fruit bats get a little larger than that, but it's
probably an adult.

>5) Any other info on bats that might be interesting or relevant.

What you probably have is a hunter that got lost. I don't suppose you had
a window open, so it probably got into your attic some time ago and
couldn't find its way back out. Like most mammals, bats can catch rabies,
though it is rare. Fortunately, when they do, they simply sicken and die
(rather than go nuts like dogs do). If, however, you ever see one that
can't fly and is wandering around in broad daylight, you should arrange
for someone to kill it, and you should keep anyone from touching it.

In Germany, bats are looked on rather fondly. I saw small signs on trees
on the grounds of the Bavarian summer palace that warned foresters not
to prune those trees because bats were nesting in them. If you can get
a colony of brown bats started, you won't have any mosquitoes next year
(maybe this isn't a big deal in Boulder, but it sure is here!).

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | The easy confidence with which I know that another
George Patterson -  | man's religion is folly teaches me to suspect that
                    | my own is also.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bwise@hemlock.mitre.org (Barry Wise)
Subject: Re: Basement Water-proofing System
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: us
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:33:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec12.025616.18419@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>  
patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
> A while ago I saw a blurb in a magazine for a water-proofing system that
> consists of hollow baseboard-style panels which are to be glued to the
> bottom of a basement wall to guide water to a sump pump. This system
> was later mentioned here on the net, and one poster said that she had
> used it. Well, I could have sworn that I saved that posting, but it seems
> to have disappeared, and now I need to know the name of the manufacturer.
> 
> I do mean *need* the name, too. My basement sprung a few more leaks this
> morning and I just spent the last 12 hours dashing downstairs every few
> minutes to run the shop vac. Please reply before the next rain!
> 
George, this may or may not help the situation but here's my $0.02: I just  
bought a house that my home inspector pointed out as having water leakage in  
the basement. He had three suggestions for me: one was to make sure the gutters  
were clean and flowing. Two was to make sure I had drain extensions to direct  
the water as far away from the foundation as possible. Last was to build up the  
earth (which had subsided around the foundation) til the slope away from the  
house was 20-30 degrees. I've done the first two and water which was starting  
to seep in has disapeared. If any of these are part of the problem you'll  
probably see standing water up next to the house or overflowing gutters. May  
not solve the whole problem but it may make it less severe.

--
Barry Wise
(bwise@hemlock.mitre.org)

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu (Michael J. Edelman)
Subject: Re: Help !! == cable TV on second floor ==
Reply-To: mje@pookie.pass.wayne.edu
Organization: Wayne State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 17:43:16 GMT
From: casey@asi.com (Casey Bahr)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Tapping a 220V line for lights
Summary: Can I tap low amp 110V line from 220V?
Date: 16 Dec 92 01:13:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: asi.1992Dec16.011313.19899
Distribution: pdx
Organization: Adaptive Solutions, Inc.,  Beaverton Oregon

I have a well house that has a single 220V circuit (on 10-3 wire,
30 amp breakers) that runs a 1/2 HP pump, solely.  I'd like to add
some lights to the well house, one heat lamp + one light lamp
inside and a flood light outside, say ~500 watts, tops.  

What is the best way to tap into this 220V line for this purpose?
If I make a straight tap on one side of the line am I in danger
of creating an imbalance that could harm the pump motor?  Do I
need some sort of breaker box to install in the pump house that
will act as a junction box for both the pump and lights?

Thanks for any information, I appreciate it. Best regards,

Casey Bahr  
casey@asi.com | ogicse!adaptive!casey | uunet!adaptive!casey 
Adaptive Solutions, Inc., 1400 NW Compton Dr. Suite 340, Beaverton, OR 97006  
VOICE: (503) 690.1236 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ FAX: (503) 690.1249
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: steve@iphase.com (Steve Kappes)
Subject: Roofing wet wood?
Summary: How dry before roofing?
Keywords: Builders,roof,wet
Organization: Interphase Corporation, Dallas Texas
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 15:54:41 GMT



I'm buying a home that is under construction.  The roof was on, but
not covered when we got three days of pretty heavy rain.  After
half a day of no rain with sun, I drive by and notice they are roofing
it already.  They are using 7/16 OSB or waferboard.

Was this enough drying time before covering this.  It seems short
to me.  The builders reply is that it is not out of line with their
standards and they have not had any problems with it.

Thanks,

Steve Kappes   Interphase Corp.  steve@iphase.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: zulch@suntan.ece.clarkson.edu (Peter Zulch)
Subject: Insulating against an above grade concrete wall.
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 16:44:10 GMT




I am in the beginning stages of rebuilding my kitchen.  Two of the walls
in the kitchen are concrete block and are in pretty good shape, there
is no outside water coming in. I will be putting up 2X4 walls against
these concrete walls and I want to add faced battened insulation.
My concern is that the concrete wall may get condensation on it and 
get the insulation wet. I thought of putting a vapor barrior between
the 2X4 wall and the concrete to keep the insulation from gettin wet
but thought this would be a worse idea as it would cause water vapor
to condensate and get the insulation wet.  What should I do to insulate
these two concrete walls? I assume using faced insulation is the proper 
thing to do, but what about the extra vapor barrior between the concrete
and the new 2X4 wall, do I need it and is it a good or bad idea.
Could someone give me a good idea of what a vapor barrier does?
thanks in advance, 
                        Pete
From: dave@dlb.com (Dave Buck)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Bread Makers
Date: 11 Dec 92 16:51:32 GMT
Reply-To: dave@dlb.com (Dave Buck)
Distribution: na
Organization: D.L.Buck & Associates, Inc.; San Jose, Calif.

In article <CNTS12.70.0@email.mot.com> CNTS12@email.mot.com (Mike Stevens) writes:
>My wife and I are considering purchasing a break maker as her mother has one 
>and it makes great bread.
>Sams Warehouse Club has a nice one made by Welbit with timer and clear glass 
>top which allows you to see the bread in the making for $ 139.00, it looks 
>idenical to the DAK catalogue version.
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.

We have a Welbilt, have been using it for 3 years. We make bread about once
a day. We had to replace its mixing bowl, or whatever it is called, after
a couple of years as it cracked from stress. Parts were slow in coming.

We like ours. I disagree with one followup I saw re these machines needing
exact ingredient quantities ... that's not how I cook, and I'd have a hard
time tolerating a breadmaker that needs exact ingredients. I also disagree
with the same followup's statement that whole wheat bread needs much more
kneading ... we get excellent results with white, whole wheat, raisin,
pumpernickel, ....

We usually use ours on "manual" mode, meaning we don't have it bake the
loaf, but just do all the kneading. We pour in the ingredients, hit start,
and two hours later pull the dough out, roll it out, form a loaf shape, pop
it in a loaf pan, let it rise 30 minutes, then bake it 25 minutes. Nice
loaf shape.  We also make dinner rolls, braided bread, or round loaves.

I use the timer sometimes for special breakfasts ... pour in ingredients for
the raised doughnuts, cinnamon/raisin buns, or whatever, and tell the timer
to have that dough ready (and the coffee machine to likewise have coffee
ready) when I reach the bottom stair. I sip my coffee while preparing the
doughnuts or buns, and the rest of the house wakes to the smell of hot
buns.

We don't make jam, rice, soup, chili, or ice cream in the bread machine.
We can't program the kneading cycle lengths, etc., beyond the preprogrammed
three choices. But I paid only $125 for it. You get what you paid for.
-- 
Dave Buck   dave@dlb.com   {amdahl,ames,daver,netcomsv,sun,zygot}!dlb!dave
D. L. Buck and Associates, Inc.;   San Jose, California;    (408) 972-2825
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cornutt@lambda.msfc.nasa.gov (David Cornutt)
Subject: FM antennas
Keywords: FM antenna
Organization: NASA/MSFC
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 23:01:19 GMT

I'm looking for a way to improve my FM radio reception.  I'm thinking
of either buying or building a dipole unit that I can mount in the
attic, but would be willing to consider one of those wierd-looking
indoor units if someone could give me a recommendation.  Signal
strength is not a problem here, but multipath is.  I seldom listen
to more than one station, so retuning an antenna would not be much
of a problem (as long as it didn't make it absolutely impossible to
pick up anything else).


-- 
David Cornutt, New Technology Inc., Huntsville, AL  (205) 461-4517
(cornutt@lambda.msfc.nasa.gov; some insane route applies)
"The opinions expressed herein are not necessarily those of my employer,
not necessarily mine, and probably not necessary."
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Finish the b.ment and/or garage ??
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:25:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Mustafa Shamim writes:
>    -   finish up the basement into a bedroom and a family
>	room (and just rough plumbing for a future bath)

Not an answer to your question, but a caution: most places now require
egress openings from any "living" space (such as a bedroom).  If the 
foundation does not currently provide such an opening from the room that
will be the bedroom, it would be illegal to put a bedroom there. Such an
egress would be a door leading directly outside, or a window large enough
for an adult to climb through easily.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Gas Dryer is not that hot
Date: 17 Dec 1992 01:50:32 GMT
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

It's worthwhile getting out the shop vac & getting all the lint
out of your dryer. Not only does it clog things up, it also
tends to burn well. That could ruin your whole day....

--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
From: jdietz@natinst.com (Jennifer Dietz)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Water Pressure Regulators
Date: 18 Dec 1992 12:37:24 -0600
Organization: National Instruments, Austin, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: eagle.natinst.com

In article <10420016@pollux.svale.hp.com> rstarr@pollux.svale.hp.com (Rob Starr) writes:
>Has anybody ever installed a water pressure regulator on their main water
>line entering the house?  Are there any benefits to lowering & regulating
>the water pressure, e.g., easier on valves & faucets.  I have monitored my
>home water pressure and it is about 70-85 psig.  At the local home supply,
>a 1" regulator is about $65.00.
>
>If a regulator is installed, what is the preferred pressure?
>
  

I'm interested in this as well.  We *just* installed most of our
1000ft water line last weekend.  Actually it went pretty well :).
*But* we had been warned that with that much line, we might have
pressure/volume problems and should use at least 1.5" and preferably
2" line.  To make a long story short, never trust the professionals ;).
We used 1.5" and are getting 80psi (rough estimate of 30gpm).  A
friend gave us a regulator to use, but it came with few instructions but
a blurb that *did* say something about needing a pressure relief valve.
So....  do we *really* need the regulator?  How about the pressure
relief valve?  (Same friend told us to ingnore the relief valve).

-jenn
>Thanks
>Rob Starr


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Bulging Basement Wall
Keywords: basement, water
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 15:28:55 GMT

In article <BLPuVB4w161w@cdthq.UUCP> gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
>rlink@acpub.duke.edu (Robert E. Link) writes:
>> the mortar has started and expanded and widened slightly over the last 6
>> weeks (much rain lately). The crack is at the center of the bulge and at
>> that point the wall is about 1 inch out of true. I need help. We don't
>> have any money and I'm going to need to deal with this mostly myself.
>
>If your basement wall is bulging and cracking, you have *serious*
>structural problems. If this is a new house, get your attorney and
>builder to work. (You don't say, but I can't imagine this being an

I don't have structural expertise, but based on comments from my
neighbor (who pours foundations for a living) I'd concur.

I'd also suggest that, if money for repairs is tight, contact your
mortgage holder and insurance agent, and explain the situation.
They both have a vested interest in the house - the mortgage company
because, if the wall collapses, they could get stuck with a condemned
house - the insurance agent because, if the wall collapses, he's got
a much larger claim to pay then he would to repair the damage.

At the risk of being melodramatic, I might also suggest that any
particularly valuable furniture or posessions be moved to the other
side of the house, away from the crack...

We'll keep our fingers crossed for you!
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
From: mikeq@freddy.CNA.TEK.COM (Mike Quigley)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Bread Makers
Date: 16 Dec 92 20:07:18 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Redmond,  OR.

In article <BzD64L.DF5.1@cs.cmu.edu> jennie+@cs.cmu.edu (Jennifer Kay) writes:
>
>I would recommend against buying a bread machine. 

As one critic of American Pop Culture observed, today's bread makers are tomorrow's
garage sale items. Sort of like the pasta machine craze of the 80s.

Mike






Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Attic Insulation
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 02:12:41 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.173951.16956@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>In article <1992Dec17.060708.23176@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
>> 2) I just finished insulating a floor. I started with Manville (the Gold
>>    stuff sold by Home Depot) and bought some Dow (the pink stuff we all
>>    know and love)
>
>Does Dow own Owens-Corning (of "Pink Panther" insulation)?  CertainTeed
>insulation is also yellow/gold in color.  I've never seen Knauf insulation
>so I don't know its color.  Anyway, these guys are the only ones I know
>of who make fiberglass batt insulation.

Just ran and checked. Can't find any mention of Dow on the product - it is
Owens-Corning. I'd could have sworn that Dow was involved at one time, but
apparently they aren't now.

Anyway, they sure make better looking stuff than Manville (that's the
company name that was on the package). What really has me kicking myself
is that the Owens-Corning was on sale and I could have saved a few bucks
as well as done a better job if I hadn't blindly run to Home Depot.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Have a place for everything and keep the thing
George Patterson -  | somewhere else. This is not advice, merely custom.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: FM antennas
Keywords: FM antenna