HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bbarton@Ingres.COM (Brian Barton)
Subject: Re: Leica Lenses
Summary: 
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: 
Organization: ASK Computer Systems, Ingres Product Division
Date: 27 Aug 92 16:44:44 GMT

In article <1468@ceylon.gte.com>, kbb0@harvey.gte.com (Kevin  writes...
>In article <1992Aug26.000048.13153@pony.Ingres.COM>, bbarton@Ingres.COM (Brian Barton) writes:
>> Can anyone recommend a Leica Rangefinder lens that is both a good portrait
>> lens and good at macro-focusing?
>> 
>> I currently have a Minolta 28mm for my M4P and although it's extremely
>> sharp, you can't focus very closely.
>> 
>> I'm looking for something that will do double duty as both a potential portrait
>> lens and something for shooting macro-photography (not 1:1 but 1:2 or 1:4 would
>> be fine).
> 
>Most late model lenses for Leica M bodies restrict minimum focus
>distance to roughly 3 feet. The reasons for this have to do with the
>fundamental method of viewing/focussing: the view/rangefinder.  At
>significantly closer distances the angle of view is different and
>parallax from the finder makes accurate framing difficult. Also, the
>accuracy of the rangefinder is questionable as well. These areas are
>where an SLR really shines. There are two possible solutions: 1) 50mm
>dual range Summicron which has a close focus distance of something
>around 19 inches or 2) get a Visoflex and either the 65mm Elmar or an
>early 90mm with detachable optical assembly. The Visoflex essentially
>turns the M into an SLR.
> 
>> Could someone compare the close-focusing distances and/or quality of the
>> 21 f 3.4, 50 f.2 summicron/wetzlar and 90mm f2?
> 
>Re: close focus - see above. 50mm Summicrons maintain their contrast
>performance into the close focus range. Sharpness is also maintained
>well even at large apertures. Later model 90mm Summicrons are a little
>soft at large apertures but clean up well when stopped down to
>f/5.6-8.0. I find the slight softness is actually an asset in portraiture.
>The 21s usually suffer slightly more distortion at the edges when
>focussed close but the effect is usually slight.
> 
>For further reading I recommend Gunther Osterloh's book "Leica M:
>Advanced School of Photography" and Dennis Laney's book "Choosing and
>Using Leica Lenses".
> 
>Regards, Kevin

Kevin, thanks for your analysis of my macro-focusing/portrait lens question.

I'll definitely check out those two books that you recommended.

Thanks again.

Brian


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ataylor@nmsu.edu (Nosy)
Subject: Can ANYONE Repair Rolli's anymore???
Organization: NMSU Computer Science
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 16:12:23 GMT


	I have a Rolliflex which has been in the family for, well,
	a while which now has a problem with the film advance-
	shutter cock mechanism. 

	I DO NOT want to hand it over to Joe's PhotoShop for
	"repair", for rather obvious reasons. 

	I would be willing to ship it to any North American
	site that could properly repair it or even back to
	Germany if that was the best course.

	Please email me as I cannot read this group (or any
	group...) much right now.

	Email:
	ataylor@nmsu.edu

	Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD NO!
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 02:49:01 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:

>I have the 'Red Book' and friends. Free from Philips years ago. ALL the info on
>formats ect... readily avail to anyone. The result of this is MANY people use
>the format, and it becomes enormusly popular, and profitable.

And the Kodak data is available to anyone who wants it.  BTW, uh, where
is the device you built that implements the "red book"?  Thought not.

>I for one am looking forward to CDing *MY* images, and describing the full
>details of the encoding of MY image on MY disk. I invite others to do the same.

I'll bet a C-note that this time next year you'll not have written anything
usable that will record or playback photo-CD.  Meanwhile those of us who
don't have an ax to grind will have saved thousands using this format.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markt@cup.hp.com (Mark Thompson)
Subject: Re: Seeking advice on solarization.
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 00:41:33 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

My formula for solarization on prints was to use agfa bolvira grade 6.  expose 
it to get the minimum hightlight and develop in dektol 1-3 for 1 min.  then i
take it out of the tray and place it under the enlarger without the neg and 
expose to white light for about half the origional( with neg) exposure. Then
i develop to taste.  Much experimentation was required but it did give some
rather nice images.

Mark
From: barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 15:14:22 GMT
Subject: Bogus Olympus Add
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

Has anyone seen the new add for the Olympus Stylus that shows a
baseball player hugging a little boy? I don't think they could've
been taken with the Stylus. For one thing, it's way too sharp for
that camera, and for another, it had to have been taken with at
LEAST a 200mm lens. I would guess more like a 300mm. Check it out.

     _
    [o] Barry Gunn x2281
    /|\ barryg@lsid.hp.com
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 16:50:16 GMT
Subject: Re: View Camera Questions
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff) writes:
| 
| There was a long thread about this on CompuServe several
| months ago.  The conclusion was:  Yaw free was a design
| accident that the marketing folks turned into a feature.
| No-one (that I can remember) thought it a necessary
| feature.
| 

The Photo RT on GEnie came to the same conclusion as well. I attribute 
this to my failure to communicate via the written word what yaw is and 
how a yaw-free camera can be a benefit. So, I'm not going to try to do it 
here. One of the many excellent view camera books out there cover the 
concept better than I ever will.

I will say, I think the conclusion is erroneous. A yaw-free camera is 
hardly necessary, but that doesn't mean it isn't useful and desirable.
If you don't do any setups that create yaw, you won't miss it. If you do use
setups that create yaw, you won't want to be without a yaw-free camera.

One little known fact is that any monorail camera turned sideways will 
be yaw free - something architectural photographers have been exploiting for
years. So, in that sense, yaw-freedom is a marketing gimmick.


    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
From: kanner@Apple.COM (Herbert Kanner)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon FM2
Date: 30 Aug 92 22:58:47 GMT
Organization: Development Systems Group, Apple Computer

In article <Aug24.184432.43491@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> ntetsuya@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Nishimura) writes:
>In article <fred-mckenzie-240892093354@128.159.169.79> fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie) writes:
>>
>	As long as I know, earlier version of FM2 has max. 1/4000 shutter speed
>	and 1/125 synchro.  Less than a year later, Nikon gave the New FM2, or
>	FM2n, its debut with the same configuration except upgraded 1/250
>	synchro shutter speed.
>
>	So basically the differences are;  (if my memory is correct)
>	FM	max. 1/1000 shutter speed, 1/125 synchro, exposure meter switch
>		connected with film wind-up lever (while the lever is pull out
>		the meter is on)
>
>	FM2	max. 1/4000 shutter speed, 1/125 synchro, exposure meter switch
>		connected with shutter button (when the button is half-depressed		the meter is on for 30 seconds)
>
>	FM2n	same as FM2 with 1/250 synchro instead of 1/125
>
>
>		Just for a reference.
>
>						Tetsuya Nishimura

Slightly inaccurate. I own an FM2, purchased shortly after the camera
came on the market. Flash synchro is up to 1/125, but there is a
special position on the shutter speed control just beyond 1/4000,
which synchronizes flash at 1/200.  A few months after I bought the
camera, I read that they had raised the maximum synchro speed to
1/250. Whether or not this had the designation FM2n I do not know.

-- 
Herb Kanner
Apple Computer, Inc.
{idi,nsc}!apple!kanner
kanner@apple.com
Xref: sparky rec.photo:15078 alt.cd-rom:2829 gnu.misc.discuss:2794 misc.int-property:887
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Date: 28 Aug 92 20:09:47 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman) writes:

>There are already many developers who've been licensed to develop applications
>for Photo CD, and Kodak will probably write VERY LITTLE of the image 
>manipulation software that will ultimately be available.  I would even go so 
>far as to guess that Kodak couldn't care less about computer jocks and hobbiests
>who want to hack through the format without getting a license.  But if they 
>try to make a product which uses it to make money, they must pay.  
>Photo CD is not tiff, or pbm, or emacs.  
>Why don't we just tell everyone the details of our emulsion designs while 
>we're at it.  Patents and licenses are a reality of the current corporate
>climate.

>Kodak is not in the business of altruism; we are not a university.  
>A lot of time, effort, and proprietary sweat was put into the 
>compression/file-format of the hi-res data to achieve good image quality 
>and decent data reduction.  


Hey Mike.  Call your own 800 number and learn how much Kodak is 
bending over backwards to support Photo-CD developers.  Don't sell your
own company short.  See my complete post for details.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photographing Softball
Date: 2 Sep 92 18:49:59 GMT
Reply-To: madler@vssad.enet.dec.com (Michael C. Adler)
Distribution: rec
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


I believe the 8008s actually has a reasonably short delay from the
shutter release button's half way point.  Your perception of a delay
was probably from button completely released with the meter off
to actual shutter tripping.  Try pressing the shutter half way in
preparation and really firing the shutter later.

-Michael

P.S.  The overpriced (US$50) cable release has the same feel as the
      shutter release button.  There is an easily discerned half way
      point.  You also don't risk shaking the camera while on the
      tripod.  Personally, I probably wouldn't use a tripod with
      a 70mm lens while shooting active sports.  Too many targets.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Fuji Slide Film or Pushing Kodachrome
Date: 27 Aug 92 19:54:08 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

bbarton@Ingres.COM (Brian Barton) writes:
: In article <243@metran.UUCP>, jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)    writes...
: >kjm@cnmss.tredydev.unisys.com (Ken J. McFadden) writes:
: >:
: >: I've been pretty happy with Kodachrome 25 and 64 for quite a while.
: >: However I want to shoot some faster slide film
: > 
: >First, try Ektachrome 400X.
: >Second, if you can get some Scotchchrome, you may wish to try that.
: 
: Here's my "two cents" on the matter.  Shoot Ektachrome 100 _Plus_ and you'll
: cry for days at how good it looks.  It's just an incredibly good film.  You've
: never seen such beautiful color in your life.

As it happens, I've tried EPP on two occasions, and both times I was
disappointed with the colors.  I guess that shows how subjective this
topic is; I know a lot of professionals use EPP and swear by it.  It makes
me feel very strange!  Does anyone else feel this way about EPP?

Jay Ts
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sgccpgs@citec.oz.au (Paul Salanitri)
Subject: Ricoh KR-10M  ??? good?
Organization: CITEC
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 04:30:33 GMT

I'm wondering, is the Ricoh KR-10M pretty good, according to the glossy
I've got it seems good: The lack of fully manual seems abit strange, but
I wouldn't miss it EVER (i think) as I've never had a fully auto, and I
like to set the depth of field alot.
Is the lens good?  I want a GOOD lens, and does the meter seem wierd 
when you first look through the view finder (it did to me - what IS that
light flashing on and off for? Oh it's the LCD illumination)

Paul.


--

==========================================================================
 Paul Salanitri                               sgccpgs@citec.oz.au
  P.O. Box 12702, Elizabeth Street, Brisbane QLD 4002, AUSTRALIA
   Committee for the Liberation and Intergration of Terrifying 
         Organisms and their Rehabilitation Into Society
             E quindi uscimmo a riveder le stelle.  
==========================================================================
Xref: sparky rec.photo:15507 alt.cd-rom:2943 gnu.misc.discuss:2900 misc.int-property:921
From: kurt@eskimo.celestial.com (Kurt Cockrum)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Date: 3 Sep 92 19:13:10 GMT
Organization: >>> Eskimo North (206)-FOR-EVER <<<

In article <1992Sep1.191150.479@kodak.kodak.com> axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman) writes:
>In article <1992Sep1.184211.28644@m.cs.uiuc.edu>, kadie@herodotus.cs.uiuc.edu (Carl M. Kadie) writes:
[...]
>>A counterexample: Polaroid's instant photography
>>
>
>So true!!  And boy does it hurt.

Music to my ears!  Louder! Louder!

>                                  That's all one need say to really sum-up 
>the patent/licensing strategies at Kodak.  None of us will be allowed to 
>make that "same mistake twice", so to speak.  Even engineers at Polaroid 
>agree that some of their patents never should have been granted, but that
>doesn't mean that we weren't found guilty of violating them.  
>
>When I think about what we could have done with that $900 million dollars... :-(

Talk about the biter bitten *before* he took any bites!
It's poetic justice that, unfortunately, didn't seem to work.
Maybe we should do it again!

Gimme a break.  What would your company have done with that $900 million
dollars?  Pissed it away on drug tests, probably.

I hope all of the companies out there that wheel and deal in intellectual
property litigation (as opposed to making innovations) hack and stab each
other to death, as they roll tumbling over Reichenbach Falls.  And the more
booby traps they encounter along the way, the better.
-- 
kurt@grogatch.celestial.com (Kurt Cockrum)
 "People who sign their own .sig are just net.personality wanna-bees." --
 K. Cockrum
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rspeirs@javelin.sim.es.com (Ron Speirs)
Subject: Re: fujichrome/ektachrome opinion needed
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 21:11:14 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.192005.18323@berlioz.nsc.com> elau@berlioz.nsc.com (Eugene Lau) writes:
>
>I'm trying to decide whether I should use fujichrome 100 (RD) or ektachrome
>100 HC (EC ?) as my all purpose film.  cost is an issue so I didn't consider
>pro films.  print films are too expensive to use in high volume, so they're 
>out too.  I shoot landscapes and portraits.  
>
If you buy pro slide film in bulk, it will cost less per roll than amateur
film.  B&H has Fujichrome 100 (RDP) for $70/roll, which works out to 
$3.50/36-exp roll.  Can you get Fujichrome RD for that?  Ektachrome Plus (EPP)
(equivalent to 100HC) or Ektachrome N (EPN) is $75/roll.

>I heard that ektachrome was better for skin tones, but I also heard that
>fujichrome was better overall (why?).  then someone on the net said fujichrome
>comes out a tad bit dark, and ektachrome is fine in this regard.  I've been
>using fujichrome 100 and am now back at square one in deciding what film to
>use.
>
It is really personal preference.  I have found that the RDP and EPN have
very similar color rendition.  EPP is slightly more contrasty.  And who said
that Fujichrome came out a tad dark???

Ron Speirs, Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: axman@acadia.Kodak.COM (Mike Axman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.cd-rom,gnu.misc.discuss,misc.int-property
Subject: Re: Time to boycott Photo CD
Date: 1 Sep 92 19:11:50 GMT
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY

In article <1992Sep1.184211.28644@m.cs.uiuc.edu>, kadie@herodotus.cs.uiuc.edu (Carl M. Kadie) writes:
>dcb@kopachuk.uucp (David Breneman) writes:
>
>[...]
>>I think what is being overlooked here is that if there is a real need
>>for photo-CD that is easily manipulateable, etc., somebody will come
>>out with a competing format that is not so inscrutable.  Just because
>>Kodak invents something, it's not locked in stone forever as the
>>dominant format.  Remember disk cameras?  127 slides?  Flash cubes?
>[...]
>
>A counterexample: Polaroid's instant photography
>

So true!!  And boy does it hurt.  That's all one need say to really sum-up 
the patent/licensing strategies at Kodak.  None of us will be allowed to 
make that "same mistake twice", so to speak.  Even engineers at Polaroid 
agree that some of their patents never should have been granted, but that
doesn't mean that we weren't found guilty of violating them.  

When I think about what we could have done with that $900 million dollars... :-(

mike


>- Carl
>--
>Carl Kadie -- kadie@cs.uiuc.edu -- University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign

-- 
Mike Axman  
CD-Imaging Advanced Development
Eastman Kodak Company
axman@acadia.kodak.com



DISCLAIMER:
Kodak gives me this Net access for free, but they aren't responsible for my postings.
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photograping Whales [8008s autofocus problem]
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:21:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Sep2.172115.11704
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <02SEP92.13276543.0053@VM.MPG.MCGILL.CA> CCGM@MUSICM.MCGILL.CA (CCGM000) writes:
>
>   I must say that I am not at all impressed with Minolta's xi
>lenses. And I won't be buying any for my xi body - they sound like
>real battery burners. And at the cost of those non-rechargable
>lithiums, I'd very much prefer to use muscle rather than buttons
>to zoom and focus (when I want manual control).

I'm not really impressed with my 100-300xi either. Its really soft wide open
at 300mm.  Do you have a suggestion for a sharper lens within the same
zoom range?

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: tklai@acsu.buffalo.edu (Tobysze K. Lai)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Film recommendation needed
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:07:39 GMT
Organization: UB

In article 43732 of rec.photo, john@earlj.b11.ingr.COM (John H. Earl) writes:

> I'm going to Europe in October and will be taking my 35 mm SLR with me to
> take pictures.  Although I was "into" photography about 20 years ago, I
> haven't done much of anything since.  Back then, Kodak was the only choice
> for film.  Now there seem to be many.  I'm probably thinking of something
> in the ASA 400 range (my 35 - 105 zoom lens starts a f 3.5).  I'm also not
> planning on taking a flash because I don't want the added weight.  So
> would someone please make a recommendation on what to use?  By the way, I
> plan to take prints - not slides - and will probably not try to find some
> kind of special lab for processing.

If you are going to shoot scenic pictures with ISO 400 speed film, I strongly
recommend you to use Fuji HG 400 film.  That is a good 400 ISO speed film with
small grains.  Even if you blow the picture taken with that film at the size
8 x 10, the quality of the picture is comparable to those taken with ISO 100
films.  I used to work in a photo finishing shop and I've seen many good
quality pictures taken from that film.

Toby Lai
tklai@acsu.buffalo.edu
From: brein@gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Barry Rein)
Subject: Canon A-1 lens recommendation
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: JPL
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 19:45:25 GMT

I was recently given a Canon A-1.  It came only with the original 50mm
lens.  I would like to get a 28-70mm zoom, or thereabouts.  Since I am not
in a financial position to buy the Canon FD 28-85mm I am looking at other
manufacturers.  I would like an opinion on the following brands:

Tamron
Tokina
Sigma
Vivitar

I believe all of the above make zoom lenses in this range.  Is there any
reason for preferring one over the other?

Thank you,


******************************************
*       Barry Rein                       *
*       brein@dsfvax.jpl.nasa.gov        *
******************************************
*       No clever comment.               *
******************************************
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Re: Fuji Slide Film or Pushing Kodachrome
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 12:53:03 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

In article <71785@apple.Apple.COM>, russell@Apple.COM (Russell Williams) writes:

> After reading some raves about the new Ektachrome 400 emulsions, I
> shot some tests comparing Fujichrome 400, Ektachrome 400HC and
> Ektachrome 400X. The two Ektachromes were definitely improved over
> their predecessors in both grain and color rendition. The grain
> was slightly finer than the Fuji. Colors were slightly cooler and
> less saturated, with more subtle gradations. I slightly preferred the 
> colors of the E400HC to E400X, but decided to continue with the Fuji 
> because it better matches the color balance of Velvia, which is my main
> film.  

I've found the colors of Fujichrome 400 to be more like Fujichrome 100
and Fujichrome 50 than Fujichrome Velvia.

BUT -- Fuji is said to release a new version of Fujichrome 400 soon,
a version that is based on the same technology used in Fujichrome Velvia.
Does this mean that the new Fujichrome 400 will have the same colors
as Velvia?

-- 
------------------------------ END OF MESSAGE ------------------------------
Robert Claeson                Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                         robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                             CEO: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com:dg-smtp
S-164 93 KISTA                     Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
Sweden                             Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: kjarman@sedona.intel.com (K. Jarman)
Subject: pictures of bonsai trees? ...Help!
Originator: kjarman@sedona
Keywords: bonsai trees
Reply-To: kjarman@sedona.intel.com
Organization: Intel Corporation
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:05:32 GMT


I was asked by a friend at work who's wife grows and sales bonsai trees,
if I could take pictures of the plants. He wants something to display and maybe
use as a logo. I'm sure I could just say "Say Cheese", or simply ask for a big
smile. But I'm looking for background and lighting sugestiong/teckniques.
I was thinking of maybe using a black backgroung with a red gel behind it, to
halo the plant, and a strob from the front or side. Has any one done this, or
have any ideas on how to capture the sensuouness of a shrubbery?

Kelly
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Kelly Jarman 		kjarman@sedona.intel.com	(602) 554-2963
 Intel, Corp.
 5000 W. Chandler Blvd.
 Chandler, AZ  85226
Newsgroups: rec.photo