HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: carolyn@bucket.rain.com (Carolyn Peterson)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Blouses falling to back; alteration from Sew News
Date: 20 Nov 92 17:41:29 GMT
Distribution: alt
Organization: Rick's Home-Grown Un*x

marg@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Margaret Minsky) writes:

>Sew News alterations column has a suggestion this month for blouses that
>creep to the back. It says that you can make an alteration to make mre room
>in the back shoulder area. On the front, subtract 1/4 from shoulder seam and
>then move the neck and arm tops outward 1/8", blending to original
>line. On the back add 1/4" to shoulder seam and also move outward
>1/8". I haven't tried this, but thought I would pass it on as there have
>been several questions about this in the group. Anyone know if this
>alteration works?
>(It says to do it before other alterations e.g. bust alterations)


If blouses are creeping to the back, the pattern might need altered
for forward thrust shoulders.  I slouched a lot when I was growing up
and have to do this.  The Singer _Perfect Fit_ book has some nice
pictures of the alteration.  For a minor one, mark the front pattern
piece the amount it needs to be lowered on the outside of the
shoulder seam.  Draw a line from the neckline seam allowance to that
point.  For the back piece, use the same process, but raise the seam,
instead of lowering.  This changes where the shoulder seam lies and
stops the shift/tug/shift/tug war between you and your blouse.  It
doesn't change the neckline or the rest of the armhole, just moves
the location of the shoulder seam.  Mark the spot on the back piece,
where the shoulder seam used to be, because you still need that point
to match to the top of the sleeve.  The amount to move the seam will
depend on each person.  In a fitting class I took, some people didn't
need the seam moved at all.  Other's needed it moved 1/4", some as
much as 3/4" (from fittings for 12 women). 
 
I have seen the Sew News alteration in other places, too.  The
opening sentence in the response confuses me:  
"If the pattern has been adjusted to fit your shoulder and bustline
properly, but you're still experiencing this problem, it's due to
poor balance in the pattern tissue from front to back."   
If a pattern was properly adjusted, shouldn't this problem should
have been taken care of?  Can someone explain this? 


-- 
Carolyn Peterson
carolyn@bucket.rain.com
From: HF.MMX@forsythe.stanford.edu (Marilee Marshall)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Re: Duvet Covers
Date: 19 Nov 1992 14:40:22 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

>
>I have not found a "wonderful" way to do closures.  I do sew a piece of
>velcro into the two bottom corners of my duvet and then onto my
>comforter - it makes it easier to put the comforter into the cover.

I recently pieced a duvet cover for my daughter for x-mas.  Used the
ideas from a "Threads" issue.  The back of the duvet meets in the
center, all the way across, and is fastened by pretty matching
buttons.  It made a rather cute treatment.  The article also
suggested sewing some bias tape into the inside corners.  By sewing
corresponding tape on the outside of the comforter, you can tie them
inside the duvet to keep everything in place.

marilee
at stanford
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: davila@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jennifer Davila-Apon)
Subject: Re: Blouses falling to back; alteration from Sew News
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Distribution: alt
Date: 20 Nov 92 23:29:57 GMT

The alteration you suggest works well for forward-sloping shoulders, but not so well for people whose posture is okay.  I think most blouse patterns are designed for someone whose neck is usually held slightly forward.  I stand/sit with
very good posture, but my shirts (especially oversized ones) either fall toward the back or the collar presses against my neck.  Any suggestions?
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: carolyn@bucket.rain.com (Carolyn Peterson)
Subject: Re: Biking Clothes
Organization: Rick's Home-Grown Un*x
Date: 17 Nov 92 22:47:30 GMT

anne@dolores.Stanford.EDU (Anne Paulson) writes:

>the bust area, whereas bigger and smaller women must alter.  Also, the
>major pattern companies (probably Kwik-Sew too) design all their
>patterns to fit the exact same figure.  (That is to say, all Vogue size
>tens should fit the Vogue ideal size ten;  but they might not fit the
>McCall's size ten.) This is helpful, because then
>once you've figured out what alterations you need to make on one Vogue
>pattern, say, you can just make those alterations on all of them.


The instructor for a fitting class that I took earlier this year had
a different perspective, so I decided to share what I have heard.   
 
The adult pattern sizes are standardized and use the same slopers.
She took the tissues for the same size fitting shell patterns from
McCalls, Simplicity, Butterick and Vogue to demonstrate this.  When
the patterns are all lined up on top of each other, they are exactly
the same size and shape.  Style, Kwik Sew and Stretch & Sew are also
this size. 
 
A Burda shell pattern was then added to the pile.  The only
difference between it and the other 4 is that the Burda is designed
for a C cup, while the others are designed for B cups. 
 
Children's patterns are not standardized. 
 
The shell fitting process has really helped me.  Since taking the
class, I have made tops for myself from Simplicity, McCalls, Style
and Vogue patterns.  Adjusting patterns from the different companies
with the adjustments indicated from the McCalls shell has produced
wonderful fitting results.   
 
The other thing that finally sunk in for me when taking the class was
to ignore full bust measurement when selecting pattern sizes and go
with the high bust measurement, regardless of cup size.  I had heard
this before and just didn't see how it would work, but it does.  I
did need to make a wide back adjustment, but the blouse front fits
beautifully (as does the rest of it). 
 
I appreciate having the pattern sizing consistent.  Even if I have to
alter them to fit me, at least the alterations are also consistent.
Some fabrics can require more fitting adjustments, but that's another
story!


-- 
-----
Carolyn Peterson
carolyn@bucket.rain.com
From: badrulv@angelo.amd.com (Badrul Vajihuddin)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Sewing machine wanted pfaff
Keywords: pfaff computerised wanted sale
Date: 19 Nov 92 05:28:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Santa Clara, CA

Does anybody want to sell his / hers pfaff computerised sewing
machine , should have documetation and be in good working condition
I dont have the model number.
Pls email or call
ramla at 510-792-5694
From: morrison@cup.hp.com (Bobbie_Morrison)
Subject: Re: Fashion Design School
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 17:07:31 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

Juan A. Varela F. (U35334@uicvm.uic.edu) wrote:
: 
: My wife wants to study fashion design.  She asked me to find out through
: the network if anybody knows of schools for this.  She is interested in
: schools in the Chicago area.  She wants to learn about design, drawing,
: advance sewing techniques, fabrics and tailoring.


On the same note: does anybody know of any schools in the San Francisco
Bay Area? (I'm *sure* there must be some.)  I ran across an add for 
some classes at the "Fashion Academy" (I think) in Santa Clara, but
I was thinking more about a bonafide program.

I've heard about a school in Oakland called the College of Crafts and
Textiles (??? or something like that).  Does anybody know anything 
about it?  Or what about the University of S.F.?

Thanks for any info.
--Bobbie

*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Bobbie Morrison				Email:  morrison@cup.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard				Telnet: 447-7124
Commercial Open Systems Lab		Post:   19447 Pruneridge Avenue
					        Cupertino, CA 95014
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
From: patw@pogo.wv.tek.com (Pat Werner)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Hancock fabrics - christmas club
Date: 19 Nov 92 18:36:07 GMT
Reply-To: patw@pogo.wv.tek.com
Distribution: pdx
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Wilsonville,  OR.

(I sure hope this goes out just in the Portland area!!!)

Have any of you been attending the Hancock fabric store Christmas Club?
Due to unforseen circumstances, I missed the November class and already
know that I will not be in the December one.  I was trying to see if 
anyone has a copy of the November project that I could arrange to borrow?

Thanks in advance for your help
Pat

patw@pogo.wv.tek.com
252-8462 (home)    685-3235 (work)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: dmd@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (debra.m.dicke)
Subject: Re: Stitchery Legal Question
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 23:09:21 GMT

In article <Bxq0to.91x@constellation.ecn.uoknor.edu> pmmuggli@midway.ecn.uoknor.edu  (pauline muggli) writes:
>In article <1992Nov12.151158.7522@super.org> jill@super.org (Amelia L. Scott) writes:
>

>>want to stitch it and hang it on my wall at home, but will I 
>>have to hide this in the bedroom since it probably has a 
>>copyright on it?  I don't want to sell the design, I only want
>>to hang it on my wall so that I can see it and enjoy it.  Is 
>>there a problem with this?   
>
>i don't think there is a problem - but i'm an engineer not a
>lawyer.  since it is for your own use.  for example, i don't
>think museusm hold copyrights on paintings.  and you see the
>mona lisa reproduced everywhere.  you could  possibly run into
>problems if you tried to sell it, but again i don't know.  since
>it is for your own place, i don't see the problem. 
>


I was at the art museum yesterday and artists can and do copyright
their paintings. I was surprised that some of them were
copyrighted in the 30's and 40's. It would seem that the
book you used to make the pattern from would state any
copyright - after all they are copying the work for the
book.

Debra
From: chamberl@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Anne Chamberlain)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Stitchery Legal Question
Date: 18 Nov 92 17:21:34 GMT
Reply-To: chamberl@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Anne Chamberlain)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


Isn't there a statute of limitations on art work as there is for music,
when it then passes into the public domain?  I'm sure all the people
selling comical postals of the Mona Lisa don't pay royalities to the
owners of the painting.

I have also been told that altering a piece of art work by 10 % means
that you have not "copied" it for legal purposes.  My son made a beautiful
poster for a fund raiser for the high school band's trip to the launching
of the U.S.S. Annapolis submarine.  Shortly after that a local company
came out with a commemorative mug for the launching with essentially
the same picture, but they had added some birds in the sky.  So we were
told we had no recourse for claiming they had stolen his design because
they had altered it by 10%!  We need a lawyer to enter this discussion.

Anne
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: cris@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (cristine.a.letourneau)
Subject: Wearable Art Magazine?
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 13:15:14 GMT

Hi -

Does anyone out there know about Wearable Art Magazine?  I just
got a subscription offer in the mail and I was wondering if it
was worth it?  

Thanks in advance,

Cris Letourneau
c.letourneau@att.com
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: dillon@world.std.com (John T Dillon)
Subject: What to do with cording
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 14:46:19 GMT


  The cording question is rather timely for me as I am working on recreating
a 1590 fencing jacket with extensive amounts of cording used as decoration.
What was done on the examples I am working from was that an awl was used to
open a small hole in the fabric without ripping the threads and the cord was
then passed through and sewn under.

  This will not work with heavy cording, but for most light cording it works
fairly well.  

  John Dillon
From: posenau@suntory.larc.nasa.gov (Maryanne Posenau)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Biking Clothes (was Re: Lycra fabric outlet in SF??)
Date: 19 Nov 1992 18:09:28 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: suntory.larc.nasa.gov

>(Standing by for flames - what's happening to this newsgroup?  Must be the 
>water.  Or something.)

Hey, what about us women with flat chests who aren't athletes, huh?
Looks kinda silly either way: wear well fitting athletic clothes to
get comfy and read news (you mean reading alt.sewing is not considered
an aerobic activity?  what if I hit the 'n' key faster?); or wear
regular clothes that have so much room between your chest and the
material that weather systems develop in there (tuck your shirt in,
front coming through!)

 :-) :-) :-) :-) 

No offense intended to any man or woman, athlete or non-athlete,
flat-chested or otherwise, .....  (I'm sorry I couldn't help myself,
sheesh but we must all be stressed out.  What, you mean you're not
stressed, and you're offended that I implied that you sounded like you
were? well....)
-- 
Mary-Anne Posenau
m.a.k.posenau@larc.nasa.gov
From: gorman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Anne-Marie K. Gorman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Another gift idea
Date: 20 Nov 92 15:46:33 GMT
Organization: UB


The comment in one of the submissions of ideas about choice of fabric
being a critical ingredient of the present's suitability reminded me of
the recent thread about the problem of under-appreciated handmade gifts
and the converse problem of handmade gifts that represent lots of effort
and love but whose design was chosen without consideration of the recipient's
tastes.

I'm curious as to whether any of you who have a family rule about 
hand-made presents have had problems with it.  Besides those two, I
can imagine some family members not having the time/talent/inclination 
to make things by hand (though probably such a family wouldn't have such 
a rule).  

Part of the reason I'm asking is that I'm thinking ahead about ways to
avoid GETTING STUFF being the focus of Christmas for my children.  My parents
did a pretty good job, I think--my sisters and I paid a lot more attention
to the lists of what we were going to give people than to the lists of what
we wanted, and I can remember saving up my (10 cents a week) allowance to
buy a book of stickers for my sister.  In fact, we independently instituted
a rule that we couldn't spend more than $1.00 on presents for each other,
although exceptions could be approved if the giver petitioned the other
two sisters.  Oh my, I'm getting nostalgic... :-)  I'd better stop here.  
If you think this is getting too far off the proper topic of 
alt.sewing, please reply by email.


-- 
===============================================================================
Anne-Marie K. Gorman          Sophie and Teresa (9 1/2 months old) are walking!
Human factors/ergonomics      Time flies twice as fast when you're having
University at Buffalo         twice as much fun.
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: marg@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Margaret Minsky)
Subject: Blouse riding back alteration, clarification
Organization: /u/marg/.organization
Distribution: alt
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:20:28 GMT

uh, I realized when I tried to state the Sew News alteration: I said
'subtract' from shoulder seam. What I meant was, NOT substract or add
from its length, but: subtract 1/4" from the front piece of the blouse
AT the shoulder seam, and add 1/4" to the back at the shoulder seam.
So, the shoulder seam stays the same LENGTH. It moves back onthe sleeve,
so it is no longer at the center of the sleeve cap.
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Subject: Re: Duvet Covers
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 07:14:00 GMT

> Can some knowing person out there tell me if I can make a 
> decent duvet cover for a fluffy, puffy holofil comforter
> out of the same size flat bedsheets?  I have heard tell of
> this for several years, however I'd hate to invest in two
> sheets at $30 bucks a piece and end up with a duvet cover
> that looks like two sheets sewn together.  I have heard that
> corners may pose a problem.  Would this duvet then also fit the 
> real goose-down filled duvets on the market for when I get one?
> Also which closures would be more suitable, a button type 
> or a zipper (has anyone hear of ribbon ties as a closure??) 
> Any advice?

Yes, you can make a duvet cover out of two bedsheets: how it looks will
depend on what you use... if you use a patterned sheet that matches your
bedroom, backed with a plain sheet that picks out in a colour in the
pattern, for example, it will probably look good. You can pipe the seams, 
too, to make it look more like something that was planned and thought
out.

Duvets come in standard sizes, so your cover should fit a goose-down one.
However, are you sure you really want a goose-down duvet? We like our
synthetic one: it's non-allergenic, washable, the filling doesn't 
migrate, and you don't have to be so careful about not lying or sitting
on it as you do a down one (damages the feathers). Also, it's a great
deal cheaper!

In England, where duvets are common, the standard closure is snaps. You
can either use snap tape or buy the snaps you apply using a hammer or a
special tool. You could use any type of closure, really, if you make
sure that the closure end is at the bottom of the bed so you can't catch
your feet or anything else in it.

Threads #41, June/July '92, has an article about duvet covers. I have an
article from an older English magazine that I'll photocopy and snailmail
to you if you want it.

BTW, I find American duvets too small. The duvet should hang over the 
sides of a large bed at least 12" each side and at the bottom. This is to
give plenty of duvet to snuggle all around your body on cold nights, 
without stealing your partner's share.

To put a duvet into its cover, turn the cover inside out. Put your hands
into it, and grab the two top corners of the duvet through the top
corners of the cover. Shake the cover over the duvet, turning it
right-side-out. Some people use clip-type clothes pegs to anchor the top
coners of cover and duvet together while they sort out the rest.

Sally
From: nancyhi@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Nancy Hill)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Sewing on Velvet -- RESULTS
Date: 19 Nov 92 00:16:22 GMT
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.


Well, I put the bodice together this weekend and here are
the results:

1.  When sewing velvet to velvet -- not too bad, I worked the
    nap together like velcro and it flowed pretty well.
2.  Definitely lighten up on the pressure foot.
3.  I found that if I lengthened the stitch I had better
    results (I put it at a 3, with 4 being basting).
4.  When sewing velvet to the lining -- lots of pins is
    a definite must.  The slick stuff moved like crazy -- I
    also found myself sewing over the pins (which I normally
    don't do, but I needed that extra anchor).  I also had 
    better results doubling up on the pin hold (in-out-in-out
    instead of just in-out).
5.  When pressing, I used a terry towel to cushion and turned
    up the steam.  I just fingered it open, steamed it, GENTLY
    fingered it open some more and let it cool.  Great results.
    When sewing velvet to velvet, fingering it open ON BOTH SIDES
    is a definite must -- as you'll have the velcro effect.

All in all, it wasn't bad.  She's coming for a semi-final fitting
this Saturday (we'll be changing it because they chose the wrong
pattern for her build -- but hey, that's why I get paid the big 
bucks!).

Anyway, thanks again for all your help!

Nancy
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: jennie+@cs.cmu.edu (Jennifer Kay)
Subject: Re: Re: Duvet Covers
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 17:18:22 GMT

I couldn't help adding my 2 cents about duvet covers:

1) Don't use buttons or snaps at the bottom -- use zippers. Every
duvet cover that I ahve with buttons or snaps always comes undone
often, and I eventually put on a pair of zippers:

2) I use two zippers so that when closed, the pulls meet in the middle.
This allows for a nice big pocket to put the duvet in and out of.

3) I like the idea of putting velcro or bias tape at the coreners to
keep the duvet in place.

4) My favorite manufactured duvet cover has two small (maybe 6") holes
along the seam at the top corners of the cover along the side) so you
can stick your hands in there to help position the duvet. REALLY useful
(see picture below)
                  top
	-------------------------
hole->                            <- hole
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
       |                        |
	__======== ==========___
          ^^^ two zippers ^^^
From: karenb@cc.uow.edu.au (Karen  Barrett)
Subject: Family Tartans - Thanks
Organization: University Of Wollongong
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 22:38:38 GMT

I'm really sorry to use up space with this but I just wanted to thank all
those who responded to my question about family tartans.  (Unfortunately I
managed to delete some of the responses so I was unable to thank everyone
individually.)  I really appreciated all your ideas and offers of 
assistance.  Since I am just starting out with this search, I feel that I
should do more foot-work on my own first but it was lovely of some of you 
to offer to look in your local stores etc.

Thanks again,

Karen.

P.S.  I have tracked down a tartan on my husband's side and am still 
searching for one on mine  (which, of course, may not exist).
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: harmet@bambi.cecer.army.mil (Laura Harmet)
Subject: Re: canvas
Organization: None
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 16:26:32 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.073805.6314@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, vblackwe@nyx.cs.du.edu (vic blackwell) writes:
> 
> Do anyone know a good supplier of cotton canvas?  Prefer natural color.
> 
> 
When I made an Australian Drovers coat, I found cotton canvas at my local
Hancock Fabrics store.  This is also known as Minnesota Fabrics in some 
states.  I think it has another alias too.  They had 2 widths: 45in. and
72in.  It was natural colored, and took very well to Ritz dye.

Laura 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing