HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: chu@hanauma.jpl.nasa.gov (Eugene Chu)
Subject: Re: Ford 302 EFI -> 351 EFI
Organization: SAR Systems Development & Processing, JPL
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 01:34:01 GMT

In article <92311.104726KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>Has anyone built a Ford EEC-IV controled EFI system for the 351W?
>Could the 351W's crank, rods and pistons be used in the 4.9L?

I think you can adapt a MAF EFI computer system to work with a 351W,
but you might need bigger injectors and the MAF sensor will need to
be recalibrated.  I think Ford Motorsport is about to (or already has)
release such an engine with all the GT-40 EFI components.

The 4.9L V8 is VERY narrow, and it probably will not accept the
crank or rods from the 351W.

eyc
-- 
>:<  Me:  Eugene Chu (Mr. Butterfly)        | Radar Science & Engineering  >:<
>:<  chu@hanauma.jpl.nasa.gov               | Jet Propulsion Laboratory    >:<
"T'is better to light a single candle than to curse the darkness"
But t'is so much easier to curse the darkness.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Need body lift info...
Organization: Motorola SPS
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 21:37:40 GMT

In article <Alex.61.0@camp.wpic.pitt.edu>, Alex@camp.wpic.pitt.edu (Alex Ferguson ) writes:
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
>         I was wondering if anybody knew of any custom auto shops in the 
> Pittsburgh area.  I just put 35" tires on my truck & now when I turn the 
> wheels rub against the fender (not enough to make it undriveable, but enough 
> to make it annoying) - anyway, I talked to people at Midas & they said that 
> air shocks wouldn't do it (1-2") & I needed either modified springs, or 
> probably a body lift.  They don't do those, nor do they know of anybody 
> around who does - if you know of anybody who does this kind of work, could
> you drop me a line & let me know who they are?
> 
> 	Also, if you have any idea how much something like this would cost, 
> or if you have had experience in this area & could offer any pointers, I'd 
> appreciate it.
> 
Try a four wheel drive shop, probably listed in the yellow pages.
They may be listed under automobile parts or four wheel drive shops.
A 3" body lift is normally under $100 *not* including installation.
Suspension lifts are much more.
Jim
From: rich@devnet.la.locus.com (Rich Silva)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: header help
Date: 4 Nov 92 16:36:07 GMT
Reply-To: rich@locus.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Locus Computing Corporation


    I dont know if this will be any help or not.... Your message
    sounded a lot like you're pretty frustrated.  So take this in the
    light its given....  I too own an early Mustang (65).

    As I'm sure you've already found out, the Mustang and headers do
    not get along very well.  You did not mention in your article
    whether you have a standard or automatic tranny, nor how modified
    the engine really was.

    I have a pretty well built up 289, and have been satisfied with my
    Hedman Headers (mostly).  I have a manual tranny, so the three
    piece left header is VERY useful.  I actually picked the "cheap"
    Hedman's over the Hooker's for just this reason.

    Now that I'm older and "wiser" ;-) I am considering going to the
    old Stock HiPo header that Ford used to use on the 289.  Yes, it
    doesnt have "big tubes", something he little 289 doesnt need IMHO.
    Nor is it equal length.  But then, I found through experience that
    the 289 doesnt need equal length tubes either (check the firing
    sequence, with 2 and 3 firing consecutively anyway (God, I havent
    thought about this stuff in years, what was the firing sequence
    again?  Anyway, there are two cyclinders on the same head that
    fire "together") equal length tubes dont buy that much power.
    There was a strange set of headers built that wrapped all over the
    engine that were "perfect", but you needed serious work on the
    firewall to use.

    This begs the question you also didnt answer.  What do you intend
    to do with the car? Street? Race? Show? What problem are you
    really fighting with that you need to "mangle" up a header?

    Anyway.....  My advice... I dont have any references for you,
    sorry....  is to either go with a Tri-Y header (I think Jardine
    used to make a set), or to go with the Ford HiPo exhaust (still
    available, talk with your local Mustang Club or check out a
    'Mustangs and early Fords' magazine.

    If you truly want to do it yourself, I'd suggest finding a header
    that is pretty close to what you want/need, and softening, bending
    it.  A local Muffler Shop (TM, not the local Midas.... somewhere
    that really does fabrication) should be able and willing to help
    you bend tubes to your specifications.


    Hope this helps... Good Luck

-- 
Rich Silva
Locus Computing Corporation		   rich@LOCUS.COM
		  {uunet,ucivax,trwrb}!lcc!rich
       {randvax,ucbvax,trwspp}!ucla-se!lcc!rich
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Subject: Re: header help
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 19:43:21 GMT

In article <1d71qrINN4hu@bigboote.WPI.EDU> martimer@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Jonathan P Sawitsky) writes:
>
>
> I hope someone can help me. I've posted in a couple of groups, and no one
>seems to want to listen to me.  This is it.   
> I own a '66 Mustang.  I would like to design and build a set of headers
>for it.  Now, I don't want to hear about how I can buy factory or
>after-market kits and such.  I've already been told about that (which I
>knew about before).  This is the deal.  My car was originally a 6 cylinder
>(no thanks to the genius who was so kind to let me know that they also had
>289's) and a 289, rebored, was put in by the previous owner.  He also made
>some other modifications to the engine and engine compartment.  This has
>altered how the headers he put on fit (they are HOOKER HEADERS).  They
>needed to be bent here and there just so they could be bolted on.  
>	This is my request- if any one has any suggestions, comments,
>ideas, or referrals for building headers, I would TRULY appreciate it.  I
>am experienced and through experience, I have become skilled at design and
>fabrication. I would like to build these myself because I think it would
>benefit the car, and I would learn one hell of a lot from it. I am
>currently a student in college, and have access to a machine shop.  This
>is not a project, just something I want to do.
>				martimer@wpi.wpi.edu

Personally, I'd say just modify a prebuilt set of headers.  "Dimples" make
no appreciable flow resitriction as long as they are smooth (you can
close off a tube almost halfway before it starts to get significant).
Building headers is a royal pain.  If you just want welding experience,
build a cage or a subframe...  a lot less headaches.  What exactly
doesn't fit about your current headers?  Another option would be to
buy a weldup kit from someone like Hooker.  It'll basically be the same
headers you already have, except unwelded and much more expensive.


-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: cbm@stiatl.salestech.com (Chris Medders)
Subject: Building/hopping up my 91 Mustang 5.0 LX
Summary: Hopping up my Mustang LX 5.0
Keywords: Mustang
Organization: Sales Technologies, Inc.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 02:44:06 GMT

First off, *great* group !!  I'm kind of a novice in this area and am excited
about getting to read & learn from all you experienced folks out there.  I
recently bought my first muscle car, a '91 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible and I
now have 'the need for speed' !  There's nothing like being on an open stretch
of highway, nothing (or noone) in sight, and opening it up...  At any rate, my
first tune-up included adding Spitfire(?) spark plugs, advancing the timing
(per the tech at Dugan Mustang), and replacing the stock air filter with a
K&N racing filter (1,000,000 mile warranty - I liked that one!).  I have been
told that the 'next' addition I need to do is replacing my mufflers with
Flowmaster mufflers then replacing my 'cables & pulleys' with the non-parasitic
type pulleys.  As I previously mentioned, I am a novice (software engineer, NOT
*mechanical* engineer) so any/all input & suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks !

-Chris

p.s.  I forgot to mention that I have a manual transmission - is there such a
thing as a "shift kit" for a Mustang ?  Again, thanks !

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris B. Medders   | "All I want is a fast car, a million buck$, a LOUD guitar,
(w) (404) 841-4903 |  and, oh yeah, world peace - but the car part will do for
cbm@stiatl.com     |  now..." :-)  %->  {|-) ;-> :^)
From: ted@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Anyone want a HOG?
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:25:43 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <1992Nov11.173324.21543@Cadence.COM>, jyoung@Cadence.COM (John Young) writes:
> In article <1992Nov2.160157.15286@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> bill@ecn.purdue.edu (Bill Drake) writes:
>>In article <1992Nov2.031649.3387@vela.acs.oakland.edu>
>>rwruther@vela.acs.oakland.edu (Richard Rutherford) writes:
>>>Does a 1958 Eureka Hearse (Cadilac commercial chassis) have any rod value?
>>>I have one. It has limited antique value due to it's '61 engine. Does anyone
>>>out there in net-land think this would look neat chopped and channeled?
>>>-- 
> FU%&IN-A!Hack the roof,slap some rims on it,gloss black, w/red interior.
> smooooooooooooooooooth...
> 		John"Pontiac"Young(some kind of .sig to come)>
                                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^when you figure it
                                                          out let me know!
                                                            ted@drycas.bitnet 
> 
> 
  I think any car which you can work on and modify and generally have fun
working on (and has a v8!)  :> has "hot rod value".  Usually old (pre-1975)
is better so you don't have pollution laws to hassle with.  In short, if YOU
like the car then GO FOR IT!  :D
            TED
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 10:14:38 EST
From: <B5D@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: 74 Mustang II HELP

I know this does not belong here, but I need help finding side moldings
with the vinyl inserts (black) for my 74 TangII.  I need the whole left
side from and including the wheel wells.  Originally, I was looking for
the front left fender too, but the autobody people can salvage that.
Ford dealers list all the parts, but when they go to the price listings
they are all Not Available.  Any help will be appreciated.

Bill
From: ted@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: '87 Trans Am Modifications
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:13:00 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <Meznv1600WBMQ_klFd@andrew.cmu.edu>, Stephen James Kendrish <sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>       Plans for a 400 have been changed due to a busted cylinder.  I now
> am having the speed shop rebuild a 350 from a '71 Chevelle.  Since many
> people do not believe that the body can handle too much power, what
> exactly will happen if I don't do anything to stiffen the body,
> eventually will only two diagonal wheels touch the ground or something? 
> Does anyone out there have suggestions on stiffening the body?  Any
> help/opinions would be greatly apperciated.
> 
> Steve
> 

  Condolences on the busted cylender!  :(  I sure hope you can get your
money back!  I'm sure there's a kit so connect the front and rear frames
that you can get at speed shops...I've never used one so I can't vouch for
them but it sure sounds like just the thing to me...good luck!
                TED
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Mike Mshar)
Subject: Re: F-Body Stability
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:38:20 GMT

> Stephen James Kendrish <sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
>
>In concern to the comment made about 5.7 liter IROCS rarely ever seen
>with T-tops.  When I was at the speed shop this weekend there was an '88
>GTA with 350 and of course, T-tops.  I've seen many GTAs with T-tops and
>the 5.7 liter engine.  I don't seem to understand the "don't know if the
>body can handle a powerful engine" comment.  Explain?

Well, I would have to refute this statement. Take a close look every time
you see a late-model TA or Camaro with a 5.7 liter engine. Most of them
will not have T-Tops. There was one model year in which this combination was
offered, it might have been 1988, I am not sure. But according to my friend
the TA guru (who can list evry option on every late-model TA), T-tops were
offered for just that one year with the 5.7 engine. The reason was because
the body would bend itself up with the extra torque. It is hard to find a
V-8 F-body with all of the body panels still in perfect alignment,
especially if they have T-tops. 

As to that GTA, it might have fell in the one model year, or it might have
been a transplanted engine. Many people do this, so I wouldn`t rule it out.
I know someone in high school that put a Corvette TPI 350 into his GTA,
right before he ran it into a tree! Now that put some stress on the body.

IMHO as always...




-- 
|       Michael G. Mshar        | My Life-Long Goal: To keep common sense    |
|   mmshar@mn.ecn.purdue.edu    | alive and keep the idiots from taking over.|
|  mshar@mentor.cc.purdue.edu   |     \\President, Nice Guys Anonymous//     |
|____>>> United States Steel, Mechanical Engineer, Technical Services <<<____|
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Charter for this group
From: lisbon@vpnet.chi.il.us (Gerry Swetsky)
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1992 05:31:31 GMT
Organization: Vpnet Public Access


Looks as if the newgroup finally took after three tries. :-)

For those who missed it, here is the charter (as amended):

====================================================================
    Charter for alt.autos.rod-n-custom, an unmoderated newsgroup

Definition:  Rod-n-Custom - The definition is not as important as the
			    intent of the newsgroup.  The intent of the
			    newsgroup is to discuss high performance
			    autos or modifications needed to make it a
			    high performance auto.  In addition, body
			    modifications falling under the classifi-
			    cation of customizing or altering will be
			    discussed.

Alt.autos.rod-n-custom shall be a haven for discussion of all aspects of
hot-rodding and customizing.  Suggested topics may include but not neces-
sarily be limited to:

    *  Discussion concerning location of parts for modification or
       customizing purposes.
    *  Location of services unique to modifying and customizing.
    *  Autos and auto parts for sale or wanted.
    *  Upcoming car shows and races.
    *  Discussion of car shows, races and racing.
    *  Questions and comment regarding engine, exterior and interior
       modifications.
    *  Nostalgia - Reminiscing about rods or customs you or someone
       else used to own.

If the above looks like it was copied from the charter for another
similiar newsgroup, it was. :-)

--
============================================================================
| Help stamp out stupid .signature files!           Gerry Swetsky  WB9EBO  |
|                 vpnet - Public access Unix and Usenet                    |
| Home (708)833-8122       vpnet (708)833-8126      lisbon@vpnet.chi.il.us |
============================================================================
From: ted@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: Advance Tuning (Gas or Springs?)
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:06:33 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <1992Nov09.171252.29041@bnr.ca>, (Eric Youngblood) writes:
> 
> Well now that the season has turned cooler I have been contemplating my 
> seasonal distributor spring change. (I can run a *very* aggressive centrifigal
> advance curve during cool weather)  This improves the power output and results
> in better acceleration times.  I am wondering if instead I should just switch
> to lower octane gas (I currently use 93 octane) in that the lower octane will
> burn faster thus creating peak pressure sooner similar to advanced timing with
> high octane.
> 
> Will lower octane have this affect or am I just trying to get out of some work?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ericy

  I suspect you're just trying to get out of some work!  :>  You might try
keeping the advance and using some Instead O' Lead GOLD.  Be sure to use the
GOLD (not the regular kind)--it has manganese in it (the regular non-gold kind
is just alcohol like so many of the others)...  It's not to expensive, about
$1.96 around here...
            TED
p.s. I'm assuming you don't have a converter...

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov (Jim Wylde)
Subject: HEELLLLLPPPP!!!!!
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 23:09:05 GMT

Hi There!

I hope someone can help me here.... I'm just about out of patience and ready to take
a shotgun to my beast!

I've got a '79 Monte Carlo.  It originally started out as a utility ride, but when my
ex blew the 305 in it, I decided to upgrade to a 350...

The block is a standard 350 w/ a 4-bolt main from a 79 ambulance (3/4 ton frame)
Got a set of 1.93" intake heads (originals were cracked)
Crank is good.
New cam (stock), lifters, rings, bearings.....  all the normal stuff.
Quadrajet carb w/ electric choke (rebuilt by serious Rochester person)
Turbo 350 trans w/ standard torque converter.

I seem to have a vaccuum leak that is about the size of Manhatten that varies with
temperature, humidity, and the general mood of the car.  It'll sometimes start.
It runs like shit till it warms up, and won't idle for more than a couple of seconds.
I've been playing with this for about 3-4 weeks now, and have gotten nowhere.

Gaskets are on correctly.  Intake manif. is on correctly.  Carb is mounted properly.
Intake is torqued down the right way.  Got Soc. Head Cap screws (Hi-strenght steel)
Timing's right.  TDC is TDC.  The entire ignition system has been replaced.

Essentially, if I can get it to run, I think I've fixed it, move it up and down the 
driveway just to make sure, pull it back into the garage, run it for 1/2 hour.  Next
day.  Same problem.

I've rebuilt umpteen Buick and Caddy big blocks (350, 455, 472, 501) and have never
run across something this stubborn.  I'm hoping it's some little quirk inherent to 
Chevy's that I don't know about yet (first Chevy block)

Anyone got any ideas?  Or should I just load up with deer slugs?

Jim Wylde
nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 10:47:26 EST
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Ford 302 EFI -> 351 EFI

Has anyone built a Ford EEC-IV controled EFI system for the 351W?
Could the 351W's crank, rods and pistons be used in the 4.9L?
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov
Subject: Re: HEELLLLLPPPP!!!!!
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory, Argonne, Illinois
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 15:50:32 GMT

In article <kelley.721663667@cwis> kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley) writes:

>Two methods you can use to find a good leak like that...one..good old
>carbuator cleaner...and two....a propane bottle with the attachment, but
>do not light it, run it along all gasket lines until there is a change
>in idle....
>
>you might want to just check that everything is torqued down properly
>also, like carb, intake manifold, etc...

Thanx... I used carb cleaner, but I never thought of the propane trick.
I'll have to double check.  But, yeah, all the bolts are torqued 
properly.  They have been checked, double checked, and the double
checks have been double checked.


Jim
From: ted@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: Re: HEELLLLLPPPP!!!!!
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:35:27 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon Computer Club

In article <1992Nov11.230905.2509@mcs.anl.gov>, nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov (Jim Wylde) writes:
> Hi There!
> 
> I hope someone can help me here.... I'm just about out of patience and ready to take
> a shotgun to my beast!
> 
> I've got a '79 Monte Carlo.  It originally started out as a utility ride, but when my
> ex blew the 305 in it, I decided to upgrade to a 350...
> 
> The block is a standard 350 w/ a 4-bolt main from a 79 ambulance (3/4 ton frame)
> Got a set of 1.93" intake heads (originals were cracked)
> Crank is good.
> New cam (stock), lifters, rings, bearings.....  all the normal stuff.
> Quadrajet carb w/ electric choke (rebuilt by serious Rochester person)
> Turbo 350 trans w/ standard torque converter.
> 
> I seem to have a vaccuum leak that is about the size of Manhatten that varies with
> temperature, humidity, and the general mood of the car.  It'll sometimes start.
> It runs like shit till it warms up, and won't idle for more than a couple of seconds.
> I've been playing with this for about 3-4 weeks now, and have gotten nowhere.
> 
> Gaskets are on correctly.  Intake manif. is on correctly.  Carb is mounted properly.
> Intake is torqued down the right way.  Got Soc. Head Cap screws (Hi-strenght steel)
> Timing's right.  TDC is TDC.  The entire ignition system has been replaced.
> 
> Essentially, if I can get it to run, I think I've fixed it, move it up and down the 
> driveway just to make sure, pull it back into the garage, run it for 1/2 hour.  Next
> day.  Same problem.
> 
> I've rebuilt umpteen Buick and Caddy big blocks (350, 455, 472, 501) and have never
> run across something this stubborn.  I'm hoping it's some little quirk inherent to 
> Chevy's that I don't know about yet (first Chevy block)
> 
> Anyone got any ideas?  Or should I just load up with deer slugs?
> 
> Jim Wylde
> nasiatka@anhep3.anl.gov

  The only vacuum leak the size that you describe that I've seen was at the
carburator gasket.  You might check it again.  If that IS the problem you 
should be able to feel around the carb base with your hands when you hear the
leak and feel it.  Another thought is does it possibly have a bad egr valve?
They can do weird things like that depending on whether they are open or
closed at the time.  Hope you find it!
             TED

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
From: jlmbrt@hubcap.clemson.edu (Jerry Lambert)
Subject: Need lathe and milling machine
Organization: Clemson University
Distribution: alt
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 19:42:09 GMT


Would appreciate lead on small metal lathe and milling machine nearby.  Email
is preferred.  Thanks.
Organization: Sophomore, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom
Date: Mon,  9 Nov 1992 23:46:57 -0500 
From: Stephen James Kendrish <sk4k+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: '87 Trans Am Modifications

      Plans for a 400 have been changed due to a busted cylinder.  I now
am having the speed shop rebuild a 350 from a '71 Chevelle.  Since many
people do not believe that the body can handle too much power, what
exactly will happen if I don't do anything to stiffen the body,
eventually will only two diagonal wheels touch the ground or something? 
Does anyone out there have suggestions on stiffening the body?  Any
help/opinions would be greatly apperciated.

Steve

Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom