HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: x3212kai@maple.circa.ufl.edu (James Stein x3212kai.maple.ufl.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Melanochromis Arratus problem
Date: 11 Apr 92 01:28:29 GMT
Reply-To: X3212KAI%oak.decnet@pine.circa.ufl.edu
Organization: The CIRCA Underground


   I have this really nasty male, about 3in long. He tends to kill off all the
other Arratus I put in the tank. This is a new problem in an established tank.
I have had this particular fish for about 2 years in a 20L tank. When I got the
fish I purchased 6 other Arratus (they were all juv's) After about 5 month I
removed all but one of the males (there turned out to be 3). This leaves me with
1 male and 4 females. All was well and humming along nicley. I successfully 
bred this male with 2 of the females over the next year. As soon as I noticed 
the female was with egg she was removed to a nursery tank which I usually kept
stock with guppies or tetra's.  After the fry were hatched I allowed the mother
to stay with them for aprox 2 weeks. She was then removed from the nursey and
put back into the main tank. I followed this procedure with both of the females
(at seperate times that is.) In both cases the male immediatly (meaning within
hours) killed the female that hatced the fry. He then proceded to kill of all
the other females. When the fry grew to about 1 inch I put them in the tank 
him. (both were small batches consisting of 4-5 fry). They grew to maturity then
he (the original male) proceded to kill them one by one. I am now left with one
nasty male and one Juvinile that seems to be developing male characteristics.
Is there anyone out there who can shed some light on to why this happened?

P.S. I do weekly 10% water changes.. The PH is around 8.0 hardness is 100ppm

I have had no other problems then the one stated above.

James
Internet: X3212KAI%maple.circa.ufl.edu
In the immortal words of Socrates.... "I drank what?!?!?"
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Subject: Re: Highlights and quotes from original Audubon article
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 10 Apr 1992 10:52 EDT  

In article <1992Apr8.233358.14194@cco.caltech.edu>, laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence) writes...
>ccliu@amy.next.com (Chang-Chi Liu) writes:
> 
>[very nice and thoughtful point about the hobby]
> 
>>If aquarists do not catch these fish or  
>>live rocks, other pollutants will kill them in a much larger scale anyway.   
>>Does this sad fact jusifies the current way of operation in marine  
>>aquarium industry?  We really have to think about that.
> 
>If something has to expensive in this hobby, let it be animals and not
>equipment.
> 
>-- 
>Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."
> 
>laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu

You guys like to jump on bandwagons without seeing where they are going.  
It appears that once you have jumped on them you are stuck for life.  Why 
don't you ponder this?  Zoos have animals that are extinct in the wild.  If 
they had not collected them the animals would be extinct forever.  Captive bread
populations of many animals have been used to restock wild populations.  If you
want to help a cause, such as the saving of the reefs, you should focus on the
real problems.

Someone presented an inappropriate analogy that implied collecting of live
animals would or could increase as the prices came down.  Does anyone think
prices for these animals are declining?  They appear to have doubled in the
past few years. What would happen if someone could mass produce lets say boats
for instance, 60 foot yachts, for 10 dollars.  Then lots of people would be
damaging the oceans by dragging their anchors so we should not allow boaters on
the waters now because the above could happen. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc.
etc. etc. etc. what if? what if? what if? what if? what if? what if? what if?
From: han-esther@CS.YALE.EDU (Esther Han)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Followup to goldfish question
Summary: Goldfish question
Date: 16 Apr 92 19:15:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Apr16.191548.287
Organization: Yale University Computer Science Dept., New Haven, CT 06520-2158

First off, I'd like to thank all those that replied to my numerous questions.

I have another question concerning something someone mentioned in one of their
replies...  He said that he had heard that Goldfish should not be kept with any
other type of fish because they secrete certain toxic chemicals.  Does anyone
know how true this is?

Thanks a lot!



-- 
--Est :)
han@minerva.cis.yale.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Hard coral spawning continued...
Keywords: marine reef
Date: 16 Apr 92 12:32:00 GMT
Reply-To: scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1476@celia.UUCP> celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree) writes:
>In article <30269@cbmvax.commodore.com> scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer) writes:
>>This weekend a second hard coral spawned. It is
>>a branched pink hammer coral Euphillia ???. This spawn
>   More great news from Scott. Keep up the good work. If you can find the time
>   could you post details on light cylces, moonlight and any other tricks you
>   have performed. My tank is entering winter mode now and recovering from my
>   KH fiasco. I read in a australian tourist book on the Great Barrier Reef 
>   that the corals there spawned on the first waning moon in summer time. 
>   Did you have a low light nite after you left a halide on all night during
>   your first reported spawning ? Could that have been a waning moon ?
The spawning was induced by a single 175w halide on for a single night.
The water temperature started to edge up when the lighting was on
all night so I stopped it until I can build a actinic moonlight setup
or I get a chiller.
>   Modern day reef systems may be approaching more optimal conditioning.
>   What are your nitrate and phosphate levels ? Do you have low range test
>   kits ?
Nitrate at 2.4 ppm (Dupla test). Phosphate <.1mmp (precision aquarium)
Neither are low range. When either creep up I can see the macroalgae
go from no growth at all to slow growth. I prefer biological feedback
as to exhaustive testing, I test every 2mo or so to verify the levels
and its worked well for me. I have minute by minute computer logs
of temp ph redox and conductivity the day of the spawn. I can mail it
to anyone interested but its too large to post.
I use kalkwasser dosing and to adjust ro topoff water, KSM, liquid gold
and homemade iodine. Also reef crystals. Ph ~7.9-8.00 redox 300-375
conductivity 51500us to 53000us temp 76-78. CO2 (which rarely kicks in)
and 4 175w halides, venturi skimmer ,ozone, x-nitrate, xphosphate,
coconut carbon.

Just a tip for those with wondering anemonies. I have a blue carpet
anemonie which refused to stay in one spot even though I provided
a hole in the live rock for his foot (I guess the live rock was too
jagged). I sunk a glass into the crevace and inserted the anemonie
foot. He has stayed there for 3 months now and is very happy. 

		Scott Schaeffer
		scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: How long will CO2 last?
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 01:18:16 GMT

In article <1992Apr12.225112.6472@news.cso.uiuc.edu> erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu writes:
>I have a question for all the aquarista using CO2 on their plant tanks.
>
>If I buy a 10 lb. bottle of CO2, approximately how long will it last? 

That depends of course on how much you use.  I think typical is from 
about half a year to a year.  My mother, who runs 1bubble/sec from a 5#
tank fills hers about every three months.  My brother who uses 1bubble/3sec
from a 20# tank has not filled it in th two years since he started.

>How can I tell when I should refill it?

If you have a gauge on the tank side of your regulator, you can see the 
pressure drop rapidly when the tank becomes empty.  The pressure stays
fairly constant while the tank is full, since it is the vapor pressure
of the CO2 (the CO2 is liquid at about 900 psi at room temperature).

You could also wait until no more CO2 comes out, but the CO2 filler guys
tend not to like it if you run your tank completely empty, since there is
a chance that other gasses may be sucked in.

I gouess you could also weigh the tank when it is empty and refill it when
it is almost the same weight.  The ol' bathroom scale may not be accurate
enough for you needs, though.

>
>--
>
>E r n e s t o   F.   B.   P e n a
>---------------------------------
>erno@uiuc.edu   NeXTmail accepted

Albrecht
From: maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: injury or disease?
Date: 15 Apr 92 01:35:07 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens


	I just noticed something odd with my red platy the other day
and thought I'd see what the net has to say, as the book I have
said nothing helpful.  My tank has 3 platys, among other things, and 2
are male (I know, not good) the female looks like she is pregnant,
although I'm not too sure.  The problem is one of the males, he looks
like someone punched him in the mouth!  From the left he looks fine
but on the right his little jaw hangs open.  I can't see any signs of
fungus or other disease but it looks quite silly and hes having a
little trouble eating, though not much.  He doesn't fight with the
other platy so I didn't think this was th trouble, now I'm not sure.
Any ideas or suggestions?  Should I leave him alone?  Should I
medicate the tank?  Help!

Thanks, 

Joan

-- 
J. C. Maxfield				maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu
DISCLAIMER:  I don't speak for the University, but they often speak for me!
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Hard coral spawning continued...
Keywords: marine reef
Date: 14 Apr 92 18:13:32 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <30269@cbmvax.commodore.com> scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer) writes:
>This weekend a second hard coral spawned. It is
>a branched pink hammer coral Euphillia ???. This spawn
 - stuff deleted -
>help Jamie). Within 12hrs clear disks were visible
>on the inside of the tube. I'll keep updating the
>progress of the disks.
>
  Scott, could you describe these disks for us. Im still searching the many 
 containers I have for possible juvenile open brain corals (spat). Maybe guess
 at its size based on a adult rotifer. Do you see any budding happening near 
 the disks ? ie- New smaller disks forming near original. Or are the disk grow-
 ing by splitting within ? Do you see a dot in the center ? Are the disks turn-
 ing white ?
   Thanks,
           Steve Tyree - Practicing Reef Breeder
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Biological Filtration
Date: 14 Apr 92 06:53:58 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

>>Two: how are you managing to decrease the nitrates level with a protein
>>skimmer?  I though protein skimmers only pulled organic carbons out of the
>>water and the idea was to get them out before they break down to ammonia and
>>get metabolized to nitrate by the bacterial beds...

greg@enterprise.Central.Sun.COM (Greg George  Area SSE - Midwest Area) writes:
>You may be misinformed: fish excrete ammonia into their environment,
>this ammonia is broken down into nitrite by nitrifying bacteria,
>the nitrite is further broken down by other bacteria into nitrate.

Do you see my statememnt above (">>") somehow disagreeing with what you say,
other than I used the word "metabolize" and you used the word "break down"?
The most appropriate term would probably be "oxidized", but that's not the
point.

Skimmers do not do very much to directly remove ammonia.  Some degassing is
possible, but that's not what the skimmers' primary task is.  They foam up
dissolved organic carbons (proteins, organic acids, etc.) before these 
substances get broken down to ammonia.  

>From my observations, my nitrate levels have dropped dramatically
>since adding a protein skimmer.

I am sure they did, but this was not due to a removal of ammonia, but by
removing the stuff that would become ammonia if allowed to stay in the water.

Without live rock or some other source of balanced nitrification and
denitrification in the tank ammonia will build up until the fish die.
If there is only nitrification present then nitrates will build up until 
the fish start dying from stress-related diseases when NO3 levels go 
above 60ppm.

I may indeed be misinformed, but not about protein skimming in salt water.
-- 
"... i heard the droning / in the shrine
	     of the sea-monkey / palace of the brine ..." -- Pixies.
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:3803 sci.aquaria:807 alt.aquaria:3010
From: PLai@cup.portal.com (Patrick L Faith)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Source for Live Rock or Seed Rock
Date: Thu,  9 Apr 92 20:48:48 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world



> Source for Live Rock or Seed Rock
>
>So... I would appreciate hearing from any and all of you about your
>experiences buying live rock.  Topics include: mail order vs. local purchase,
>Sea of Cortez vs Florida rock, live rock vs. seed rock, etc.  When I page

Well ... we had a discussion on "seed" in alt.aquaria and sci.aquaria, and
I got a lot of mail about where I got seed rock.                           

Seed rock ( rock that is packaged in water, goes through no decay process, 
and is used to seed lifeless rocks through reproduction ) is very hard to
get from my experience and those that responded to my recent posts.
I've gotten all my seed rock through personal collection, or asking my 
collector friends for it.  I don't know anyone that will collect and ship
seed rock currently.  There seems to be a demand for seed rock,
since it can have small corals and delicate inverts on it that wont die
through the shipping process.  But there does not appear enough demand to
make the handling of the rock worth the collectors effort - i.e. treating
the rock in the same way you would treat a live coral.
                                                      
                               PLai

p.s. of those that posted "seed" rock was always prefered to "live" rock,
though some have received live rock that did not have to be cured much.

 or having reems of exp
From: gburges@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Garry Russel Burgess)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Diatom Filter
Keywords: diatom
Date: 15 Apr 92 01:57:42 GMT
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada

I was thinking about vacuuming my gravel, and running the water through a
diatom filter.  What are your opinions about that?

Garry
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Lights
From: ajkavie@wsuhub.uc.twsu.edu
Date: 14 Apr 92 17:56:12 CST
Organization: Wichita State University, Wichita, Ks

Just an idea of how to make your own light.

Take of piece of vinyl gutter (you know, the stuff you put on your house) and
cut it to what ever length.  Buy a couple of end fittings (pretty common stuff)
and slap them on the end.  Spray some paint on it and your almost done.  The
last step involves putting in the light.  Get yourself on of those light bars
(the kind you put under your cabinets in the kitchen) and mount it in the hood.
The mounting is relatively easy because the light bar already has the mounting
holes molded into the structure.  Volia, an aquarium light.  I made one for my
40 gal. and it cost me $7 for the light (bulb included) $6 for the vinyl and $1
for paint.  I figured I saved myself about $15 and it only took me a couple
hours to make.
From: uhubb@mcl.mcl.ucsb.edu (Richard Hubbell)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: How many aquarists in the U.S. or the world?
Keywords: aquarists, U.S. world
Date: 13 Apr 92 17:49:24 GMT
Distribution: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria

In <1992Apr13.140805.12912@cs.ucla.edu> jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg) writes:

>Well, according, once again, to the now infamous article in Audubon:
>the country had an estimated 10 million hobbyists, whose tanks held 2 to 3
>billion fish.  Estimated industry sales here make up $1.6 billion of the 
>$4 billion spent on the aquarium trade worldwide.  And the fastest-growing
>segment of the industry is the minireef.......".  It goes on to say that
>currently 15% of the industry is in saltwater aquariums, as compared to
>5% only 5 years ago.
>I am a little skeptical of the 200 to 300 fish average per hobbyist implied
>by the above numbers.  Could that be right?
	Did the author include his sources? I have missed this thread up 
	till now. What issue of Audubon was this? 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu
Subject: to beginer
Reply-To: xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 23:44:15 GMT

Whin I started I had a simaler set up. The previous segestion is good. I
set up my filter in 3 layers 1.floss 2.carbon (this became mixed w. gravel
on accident) 3.floss . I changed the first layer of floss regularly and the 
second one periodically with the carbon every 2end or 3erd change of the
bottom layer of floss. (as needed). I have never had a problem doing this
under normal circumstances. Do which ever is easiest.

ELF-KIN	A fish is a fish is a fish-I'm pretty sure
From: graue@bgsu.edu (Louis Graue)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: New filter system
Date: 17 Apr 92 16:32:02 GMT
Organization: Bowling Green State University B.G., Oh.

I recently purchased a fish tank from a dealer who recommended a filter
setup not described in the literature.  I would appreciate your comments
about the system.

He recommended an undergravel filter with an undergravel filter overlay
called Bio-Substrate by Ginger - cover this with 2 to 4 inches of gravel -
install a Whisper power filter with the intake comming from a tube that
goes down below the UGF.  Thus the water is filtered twice - first 
through the UGF and then through the disposable filter cartrige in the
power filter before being returned to the aquarium.  That is it - no
air pump or bubbles.  He uses this system for  all of the tanks in his
shop and calims it works well.
From: onstotc@prism.CS.ORST.EDU (Onstott Curtis B)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Ich medication in a small pond
Date: 14 Apr 92 01:52:23 GMT
Organization: Oregon State University, Computer Science Dept.


	I've built a small outdoor pond, that is now home to seven
goldfish.  I recently had one di of ich and am treating it w/malachite
green hydrochloride (Ich cure).  I was wondering.......

1) How does the medication work and what are it's side effects?  I'm
   especially concerned with my plants (water fringe and water poppy)
   and whether it retards algae growth. (I've heard that algae is a good
   thing to have in a small pond.)

2) What can I do to prevent them from getting sick in the future?  How
   can I tell when they are better? 

-- 
| Curt Onstott                     |  Help!!  I've fallen and I can't   |
| Oregon State University  (USA)   |  get up!!!   Raaalphppph!!         |
| Ph. (503) 757-6639               |                    -George Bush    |
| E-mail onstotc@prism.cs.orst.edu |                                    |
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Cheap Calcium?
Date: 6 Apr 92 21:53:58 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Research Labratory, Washington, DC

>In article <1992Apr6.004754.1@pomona.claremont.edu>, efang@pomona.claremont.edu writes:
>Actually, I checked and Ca(OH)2 has a low solubility too, compared to CaCl2. It
>is about 0.077g/100cc. I'll bet that CaCl2 would indeed be the easiest way to
>add Calcium; since its solubility is so high,you may be adding far more than 
>you need, indeed far more than you can possibly add with the hydroxide. Figure
>out how much Ca you are adding with a saturated solution of the hydroxide and
>then figure out the relative volume of saturated chloride solution  you need to
>add to get the same amount. You probably shouldn't even saturate it.

   You sure as hell can't buy any saturated CaCl2 from a fish store.
The bottle stuff in fish store has pretty low concentration.  Patti
told me someone put in a whole 16oz bottle of X-brand CaCl2 and raised
the Ca level by 40ppm.  I dissolve 6 table spoon of CaCl2 in 16 oz
of water.  I give the bottle a nice long squeeze every day when
I fill up my pepsi drip bottle for evaporation, still can't get my
Ca level up to 400ppm.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Subject: Re: [M] Cheap Calcium?
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 21:48:29 GMT

pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:

>In article <1992Apr10.113949.18678@stsci.edu> wissler@stsci.edu (Steven Wissler,G12,4899,ADD.1-29-91) writes:
>>	I think I've been following this thread fiarly closely. I don't
>>remember seeing anyone mention the ppm levels of calcium in seawater.
>>Anybody know this?
>>

>400 ppm is the often quoted figure, I believe.  Close enough...

I've heard it claimed that 400ppm should be the lower bound,
although I don't know if this is true.  Natural seawater is
somewhere between 412 and 420ppm, I believe, but I have also
seen recommendations of 450ppm or even higher.  Like carbonate
hardness, apparently some people think it ought to be higher
than in nature...

-- 
Dustin Laurence            "Someone please stop me, before I net again."

laurence@alice.wonderland.caltech.edu
From: scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Hard coral spawning continued...
Keywords: marine reef
Date: 16 Apr 92 12:41:42 GMT
Reply-To: scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1481@celia.UUCP> celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree) writes:
>In article <30269@cbmvax.commodore.com> scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com (Scott Schaeffer) writes:
>>This weekend a second hard coral spawned. It is
>>a branched pink hammer coral Euphillia ???. This spawn
> - stuff deleted -
>>help Jamie). Within 12hrs clear disks were visible
>>on the inside of the tube. I'll keep updating the
>>progress of the disks.
>>
>  Scott, could you describe these disks for us. Im still searching the many 
> containers I have for possible juvenile open brain corals (spat). Maybe guess
> at its size based on a adult rotifer. Do you see any budding happening near 
> the disks ? ie- New smaller disks forming near original. Or are the disk grow-
> ing by splitting within ? Do you see a dot in the center ? Are the disks turn-
> ing white ?
>   Thanks,
>           Steve Tyree - Practicing Reef Breeder

The disks are the size of a pin head and I don't have an apropriate
magnifier to see any detail. There were some sort of juvinile corals on
my florida live rock. They grew from 1/8" disks to 1/4" disks and septa
became visible around the 1/8" size. The coral itself has clear
tentacles with tiny white spots. I still have a few in the tank but they
don't seem to be growing any further. I don't know if you can assume
that any size coral must grow to this size before septa appear. We'll
know in a few months.

		Scott Schaeffer
		scotts@cbmvax.commodore.com
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:3785 alt.aquaria:3000