HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: v523d85n@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Robert C Maggio)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: vw fox?
Date: 8 Oct 92 19:58:00 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1b18cbINNs5g@lisa.cs.widener.edu>, poulson@cs.widener.edu (Joshua R. Poulson) writes...
> 
>That's why I got a Volkswagon Fox, slightly lower profile. :)
> 
>-- 
>Joshua R. Poulson (NICname: JRP8)          [Joshua R. Poulson@cyber.Widener.EDU]
>Systems Programmer, Widener University     [jrp@netman.Widener.EDU]

hey, what do you know, ive also got a fox (with tinted windows no less, alarm,
system, etc.... no BBS wheels though, i decided to go with MSW)

just out of curiosity, have you heard of break ins on a fox, all i hear
about are jettas, although i know no one is safe.

also, what kind of equipment/ speakers have you found that sound good in 
your car? im very happy with polks and mtx, but the car does not seem
to sound good without system equalization. 

i know this sound nosy, but do you run subs?  ive got two tens mounted
first order in the deck, and am wondering if you have the same rattle i
do.  i think its the ashtray in the back seat rattling.  i wish i could
take the damn thing out, but then id have an empty hole and that would be even 
worse.  i cant even isolate the plastic pieces from each other due to 
lack of room.

i guess that the resonating frequency of the fox...im guessing at about 150 hz...
is what sets of the rattle.

have you had similar experience?

take care, rm
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Q: Tweeter wiring from CSR..
Date: 7 Oct 92 15:32:36 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.


	I was just wondering what the pros and cons are of wiring your
dash speakers out of phase witht the tuner.

	I heard that it will not produce any bass. If this is true I
will have no use for bass blockers. But then what about the mids and
highs.

	So if anyone can clarify what this does, thanks a lot.


					
-- 
M A D E   .   . .---. .---.    \  Buy U.S.A. products,  /    xxxxx ==========
  I N     |   |  \    |___|    <     It's YOUR job.     >    xxxxx ========== 
 T H E    |   |    \  |   |    <  Christopher J. Massa  >    ================
-------   `---' `---' '   `    / cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu \    ================
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: large capacitors
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:26:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BvrKKo.5BB
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

In article <1992Oct7.152627.16852@njitgw.njit.edu> cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan) writes:
}	I basically have two questions.
}	1.)	How do I exactly wire the cap in parrallel?

Like this (assuming you're powering the amp straight off the battery):
                    -----
                ----|Cap|------
        -----   |   -----     |
        |   |   |   -----     |
        |Bat|P--+--P|Amp|G----+-----M
        |   |       -----
        -----

Where "P" are the power leads (positive terminal of the battery to power
input of the amp), "G" is the ground lead of the amp, and "M" is your
ground point - presumably a chunk of bare metal somewhere.  Basically,
just splice the leads of the capacitor "across" the power leads (positive
and ground) of the amp.

}	2.) 	Where would I be able to get the caps.?

Someone posted a few names and numbers a week or so ago - don't have it
handy, sorry.

}	Another question is:
}	How many farads would I need if I'm using a 200x2 into 4ohm amp?

This was also answered in the previous article I mentioned.  I believe
the figure given was one farad per kilowatt, which, to be honest, seems
like vast overkill to me, but I haven't done the calculations to figure
out for sure what the discharge time would be like to see if it's really
necessary.  Briefly, the capacitor could discharge about 63% of its
energy (if you're using a 1 farad capacitor, the total energy stored
(when fully charged) is 12V * 1F = 12C) - that is, .63 * 12C ~= 7.56C
in an amount of time equal to the internal power resistance of the amp
times the capacitance of the capacitor.  The capacitance is 1F; the
power resistance would be R=V/I; P=VI; V~=12V; P~=800W (200x2ch=400W,
400Wx2 (50% efficient) = 800W power input); I=P/V = 800/12 = 65A; R=V/I =
12/65 ~= .2 ohms, so the time factor is RC = .2ohms * 1F = .2 seconds.
Therefore, you could discharge 7.56C in .2 seconds, which means about
38 amps (I=Q/T = 7.56/.2 ~= 38) of power in addition to whatever the
system can provide.  Again, these were just off-the-top-of-my-head
calculations based on some broad assumptions of your system, but my
general conclusion is that 1F would be *plenty* of backup assistance
to power your amp on those bass notes...

If I screwed up the calculations anywhere, I'd be happy to see
corrections from the rest of you folks - especially since I have an
exam on this stuff next week.  :-)

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
"To be great is to be misunderstood." | of the establishment..."
"Insist on yourself - never imitate." |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: chenh@neptune.ecs.csus.edu (H. Philip Chen)
Subject: CD Changers  (was Re: ALPINE SUCKS!! (still))
Organization: California State University, Sacramento
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 01:51:52 GMT

n8946631@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Keith Kaplan) writes:
:[stuff about his Alpine 5954 controller & 5952V changer deleted]
:You pays your money and you takes your chances, but I wish that Sony
:made a changer small enough to go in my glovebox, or that Soundstream would
:have just come out with a changer already.

The Sony 10-disc is surely larger than the Alpine 6-disc.  The new
Kenwood 10-disc may fit in the glove box though; it's only slightly
larger than the Alpine one, but I guess this model wasn't around
when you got your Alpine last year.

Soundstream has a changer too.  I think the model number is DC1000 
and it's got both the analog and digital outputs.  Pretty obscure 
model though -- not all places have it on display.  It's the same 
size as the previous/early Sony/Denon/Yamaha/Eclipse/Blaupunkt
changers.  The funny thing is Eclipse managed to squeeze 12-discs 
into the same-sized chassis, but I digress.)


>P.S.  I have decided that this was my first and LAST Alpine purchase.

Come on Keith, their amps work great! :)


Cheers,

-phil

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser)
Subject: Re: Bost Accoustics Customer Service #
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 18:56:38 GMT

Boston Accoustics...
70 Broadway
Lynnfield, MA 01940
617-592-9000

sorry, I didn't find an 800 #

				- Jason
jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu
From: gravillr@prism.CS.ORST.EDU (Russell J. Graville)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: CD changer problem
Date: 15 Oct 92 22:12:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Oregon State University, Computer Science Dept.

I have a little dilemma on my hands.  My Sony 7600 head-unit was stolen but
my A15 cd changer still has the disc cartrage in it full of discs.  Is there
some way to manually remove the cartrage or how do i get my discs back out?

thanks
Russ
gravillr@prism.cs.orst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: weaponh@athena.mit.edu (Herb Singleton Jr.)
Subject: Re: Car stereo security
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:14:35 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.170209@usho21.hou281.chevron.com>, hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes:
|> 
|>  Well.. since the subject has come up again, I'll repost what
|>  I said about 3 weeks ago:

Stuff deleted...



|> 
|>  When you use a detachable faceplate, you still leave valuable stuff
|>  behind.  The manufacturers have not advertized enough that the body is
|>  useless without the faceplate, so it still gets stolen.  I asked a
|>  dealer he said that some charge about $200-$300 to replace a stolen
                                          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
There are also some dealers (at least in Springfield, MA who will replace the 
stolen guts for free as long as you show proof of purchase and a police report.

                                         Herb S.



|>  deck body to match the retained faceplate and you have to provide all
|>  sorts of documentation to prove you're you.  Heck, you can buy a new 
|>  one for that!  And the same points from above apply plus:
|>     5 - they can't tell its a pull-out or detachable
|>     6 - are contacts reliable long-term yet?  If not, you'll start 
|>         leaving it attached when you start noticing wear or having
|>         trouble.
|> 
|>  I'd recommend that you select a Fixed Mount and used the money saved
|>  over the pull-out or detachable versions to put towards a good alarm
|>  system.  A good perimeter detection system like the Alpine 8040 should
|>  help prevent a break-in.  Remember, the breaking of the glass and 
|>  tearing up of the dash, seats, and/or trunk will cost you at least thea
|>  price of your insurance deductable ($250-$500) plus the possible rise
|>  in your future insurance premiums regardless of what mounting you use!
|> 
|> 
|>  I hope this helps.  :)
|> 
|>  TRAVIS 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@creek.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: Have port frequency; how to get dimensions?
Keywords: subwoofer car audio port perfect box frequency speaker
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 92 23:02:45 GMT

In article <1992Oct08.011334.94%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu>, mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.) writes:
|> 
|> Just got Perfect Box, and it is a very nice program!  I entered
|> the Kicker C-10's stats, as well as the Pioneer I am trying at
|> the moment (10" Maxxial).  Actually, the Pioneer even looks
|> better than the C-10 on the Amplitude v. Frequency plot!  
|> (for a vented enclosure of my box size, the Pioneer is -3db at
|> about 48Hz, and the Kicker at about 51Hz.  The Pioneer is -10db at
|> 32 Hz, and the Kicker at about 34Hz)

Make sure to check the power limited curve as well.  Those "optimum"
enclosures usually have horrible power handling and you can usually
get better bass extension out of a "non-optimum" enclosure.
 
|> Well, my first (quick) question is, how do you calculate Piston
|> Diameter?  I took a guess for both the above speakers, but don't
|> really know even what it is supposed to represent.

If you have the driver, measure the distance from the middle of the
surround on one side to the middle of the surround on the other side.
This will give you the piston diameter.  If you have the Sd parameter
you can calculate the piston diameter from that.  Sd is the effective
piston area.  Finally, you can estimate the piston diameter.  As
someone else already said, typical diameters are smaller than advertised
diameters.  12s are really about 10.5, 8s are about 6.75 etc.

|> Anyway, Perfect Box gives you the 'best' vent frequency for a given
|> setup--but how do you convert this frequency into vent dimensions?

Perfect Box does have a port length vs. diameter chart, but it is 
highly flawed.  You can use a formula to get close, but you really 
have to check the tuning frequency with test equipment and then change
the vent length until you get it to the desired frequency.  A formula
from the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook is:

L = (14630000 * R^2 /(Fc^2 * V) ) - 1.463 * R

where L is the length in inches
      R is the port radius in inches
      V is the enclosure volume in inches^3
and   Fc is the port tuning frequency in Hz

You should start with a port that is about 15% larger than the formula
above.  That way you'll have some port to cut if the tuning frequency is
too low.  If the tuning frequency is too high, then you have to lengthen
the port; but you can't really lengthen the port, so you have to start 
over again.
 
|> Thanks!
|> Mike
|> -- 
|> mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu

			Brian L. Gentry
		   (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
From: brian@crow.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: large capacitors
Date: 11 Oct 92 21:37:59 GMT
Organization: UF EE Department (student)

In article <BvrKKo.5BB@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis) writes:
|> In article <1992Oct7.152627.16852@njitgw.njit.edu> cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan) writes:

[...]

|> }	Another question is:
|> }	How many farads would I need if I'm using a 200x2 into 4ohm amp?
|> 
|> This was also answered in the previous article I mentioned.  I believe
|> the figure given was one farad per kilowatt, which, to be honest, seems
|> like vast overkill to me, but I haven't done the calculations to figure
|> out for sure what the discharge time would be like to see if it's really
|> necessary.  Briefly, the capacitor could discharge about 63% of its
|> energy

The cap's voltage will drop to 36% of it's value in one time constant, 
but this is just voltage.  Power is voltage squared divided by 
Resistance.  To get total energy disipated in one time constant, you
need to integrate the power from 0 to Tau (Tau = time constant).
When you do this, you get E(Tau) = E(initial)* 0.865.  So, the cap
can discharge ~86.5% of it's energy in one time constant.

|> (if you're using a 1 farad capacitor, the total energy stored
|> (when fully charged) is 12V * 1F = 12C) - that is, .63 * 12C ~= 7.56C

Total energy stored is: E = 0.5 * C * V^2
So, the total energy in this case is 0.5 * 1 * 12^2 = 72 Coloumbs.  The
engergy discharged over Tau is .865 *72 = 62.3 C.  The problem with this
calculation is that the cap's voltage has to drop to 36% of it's original
value in order for this calculation to work.  If that happened, the
voltage would only be .36 * 12 = 4.32 V.  The battery won't allow that
to happen and most amps will shut down at this voltage.  It would be more
realistic to find the contribution of the cap over some short time period
like 20 miliseconds.  In 20 mS the cap's voltage will drop to :
V(20mS) = V(0) * exp ( -0.02/RC) = 12 * exp (-0.02/.2) =  10.85 V
This is more realistic.  The energy disipated over this time is:
-72 * [ exp (-2 * .02/RC) -1 ]=  -72 * (-0.181) =  13.05 C.
Total AVERAGE current is I = Q/t = 13.05/0.02 = 652.6 Amperes.
This is absolutely ridiculous and you'd never need this much current.
1F is plenty of capacitance for a 400 Watt amplifier. 
 
|> If I screwed up the calculations anywhere, I'd be happy to see
|> corrections from the rest of you folks - especially since I have an
|> exam on this stuff next week.  :-)

Hope this helps with your exam :)
 
|> Jeff

			Brian L. Gentry
		   (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: schroede@bnlux1.bnl.gov (gary l. schroeder)
Subject: Opinions on car CD player units... 
Organization: Brookhaven National Laboratory, Upton, NY 11973
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:26:06 GMT

I'm thinking of taking the Great Plunge into the world of in-dash CD
units.  Although, before I shell out the cash, I'd like to solicit
opinions from those who have extensive experience with them.

I have a Honda CRX which, being a small car, tends to give some pretty
harsh bumps.  My main concern: how well will a CD player deal with a
rough ride?  Will I be skipping every 30 seconds?

Secondly, I've gone through home CD units like water since I started
amassing CDs in 1986.  I have had them go useless mostly by either
tracking problems (might as well buy a new unit) or processing chip
failure (believe it! It can happen!).  I don't want to repeat this
experience with an expensive in-dash unit.  What luck have any of you
had with reliability?

If you'd like to rave about the merits of Sony or Pioneer, etc., please
do, just don't bother giving me model numbers and such.  I'm just
looking for brand name quality, because if your model is more than a year
old, they probably don't make it any more anyway.

I would be very greatful for direct e-mail responses.  Thanks.

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gary L. Schroeder  		|  
schroede@bnlux1.bnl.gov         |             Boo. 
Brookhaven National Laboratory  |
From: dlou@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Blaupunkt ZL series
Date: 13 Oct 92 00:50:11 GMT
Organization: University of California, San Diego


Does anyone have any experience with the Blaupunkt ZL series of 6x9's?
They have a dual voice coil so that you hook up seperate amps to each
bass terminal and supposedly "get a sub for free" (Crutchfield catalog)

They didn't sound very impressive in the store, but I suspect they
didn't hook it up right (only used one set of terminals or tied them
both together into one amp).

I need some rear speakers and am thinking about putting these in
boxes in my hatchback.

-- 
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
From: lagnaf@apple.com (LJ the god of the InterNet)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Wanted: Big Amp!
Date: 8 Oct 92 22:38:59 GMT
Organization: Apple Canada, Inc.
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1

Hey y'all!

Anyone out there selling a large amplifier (ie: 150 wpc and up, 2
channel) for
a reasonable price (I'll let you decide what's reasonable!)...It's
subwoofer upgrade
time again!

Thanx,

-LJ
John Czlonka
lagnaf@apple.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,misc.legal
From: mgarber@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Max D Garber)
Subject: Re: ++$70 TICKET FOR BOOMIN' CAR STEREO-Help!++
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: oh
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 12:27:32 GMT

>>Contest' and be honest-tell them that I wasn't aware that I could recieve a
>>ticket for my radio.
>>
>I wish they had fined you more. There are few things that irk me more than
>jackasses who think the whole world wants to hear their car stereos. In
>my neighborhood it is impossible to enjoy a nice day outside or have a
>barbecue without being assaulted by the noise from cars blocks away. At night
>it is even worse.
> When society has deteriorated to the point where people do anything that
>pleases them without any consideration for how it affects others, then the onl
y
>remedy is the law. I congratulate your town for being more enlightened than
>mine on this matter.
>
*****Well, no that you are through speaking what you call your $.02 worth I 
would like to say a few other things:

     1) Do not classify me with those dorks who do go BUMPIN' IN THE NIGHT.  I 
am not one to GO BUMP IN THE NIGHT in residential districts-I know how limited 
and precious sleep in this day in age, so I respect others right to a peaceful 
night's rest.

     2) If you get P.O.ed at those dorks, just report them...get the make and 
model, color of car and who's inside.  I am sure that if the police got more 
than 1 call about a certain car they would stake it out.

     3) I am sorry for the dorks that do interrupt your sleep, but again please
don't catagorize me with them.  I appreciate the highest quality sound there 
is, but not when it invades on others.

Thanks for your input!!

MAXEE D

PS  When was the last time you flamed US AIR or DELTA for flying above your 
house.  Not to mention the military with those awfully loud choppers!!!
From: gh@lsil.com (George Hadjidakis 4610)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Best Amps
Date: 13 Oct 92 23:32:44 GMT
Reply-To: gh@lsil.com
Organization: LSI Logic Corporation


---
Look into the a/d/s line. I have yet to hear cleaner sound or anybody complaining
about them.
 
--George 
Newsgroups: rec.audio,rec.music.synth
From: rej@sal.wisc.edu (Randy Jones)
Subject: Lock Grooves.
Summary: Why vinyl will never die (?)
Organization: Space Astronomy Lab, Madison, WI
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 04:21:07 GMT

My housemate just picked up this great 7" from RRRecords. It's a sampler
of 100 different bands. Each band is represented by a single lock groove,
which lasts about a second and a half. Some neat mesmerizing noises on there,
with 50 per side it's hard to pin down which band you're listening to, though.

Anyhow, this got me wondering: Is a true "lock groove" possible with a CD?
Is there any loophole in the format specification which would allow
positioning information to be inserted that causes a track to repeat? Or,
barring that, a hack which will fool a substantial number of CD players
into skipping in a predetermined way?

It would do my heart good to find that, even covertly, the new technology
has some of the flexibility of the old. But this is not the way of "progress".
I'm not dissing CDs, mind you. But it seems the more advanced a technology 
is, the fewer neat hacks there are. And so I need more closet space.

The end of that Beatles CD (yes, I forgot which one) was handled in an 
acceptable way, I guess: the lock groove plays for a while and then fades 
out. But I've always thought this was kind of a cop out... cop out... 
cop out... cop out... cop out...  cop out... <thunk>

-- 
| Randy Jones           | "The electron tube is a marvelous device. It makes
| rej@bob.sal.wisc.edu  |  possible the performing of operations, amazing in
|                       |  conception, with a precision and a certainty that 
|                       |  are astounding."     -- RCA Receiving Tube manual 
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: strong@tc.fluke.COM (Norm Strong)
Subject: Need Speaker recommendation
Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 16:15:08 GMT

I'm soliciting advice from the net.  I need a new pair of speakers with
these qualifications:

Price:   Not over $580/pr, including tax, shipping and stands, if any.

Amplifier:  I have 70 watts available into 8 ohms
Room size:  5000 cu. ft.  average upholstery and reflectivity.

Type of music:  I listen mainly to pipe organ music at high levels.

Other:   They are to sit on a hardwood floor, but the floor also has a
rug.  I'd like the widest possible sweet spot, since I sit in a variety
of places in the room.  

I'd appreciate your recommendation, as always.  
-- 

Norm Strong  (strong@tc.fluke.com)
2528 31st S.   Seattle WA 98144   USA
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: shiv@bnr.ca (Shiv Naimpally)
Subject: Re: Opinions on KEF Speakers?
Reply-To: shiv@bnr.ca (Shiv Naimpally)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 21:19:26 GMT

I recently bought KEF 103.4s and enjoy them very much. They have
very pin point imaging. Thiel speakers also have nice imaging,
but the image is 'larger than life'. In that price range I thought
the KEFs had an edge in terms of bass. The Mirage dipoles also
project a large image, but I found the image 'muddier' compared
to the KEFs. B&W also make excellent speakers - I don't know what
is available in that price range these days, but the 801s I heard
image very nicely ! The DCM TF700 Timeframes, which are available
used are also worth looking at. 
Newsgroups: rec.audio