HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: robert_walton@next.com (Robert Walton)
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: Why isn't this rec.archery?
Date: 11 Nov 92 19:06:19 GMT

I only stumbled across this while looking for something else.  I would  
have thought to find it under rec.archery.  They have rec.hunting,  
rec.guns, etc...

Why is this here?
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: ketchum@cs.montana.edu (Steve White)
Subject: Re: WHERE IS EVERYBODY?
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, MSU, Bozeman Mt 59717
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:43:32 GMT

In article <1dc6iqINNd32@uwm.edu> leonardo@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Paul Scott Bartelt) writes:
>
>	Have all the archers of the world become tight lipped? I have
>not seen much posted here lately. What's wrong?
>

I could give you pages (sectors?) of unsuccessful stories. Actually we/I
always have a great time so it is a success even though I could have left
my bow home for the hike. But it's hard to explain how fun it and get others
to feel the same when you didn't even shoot.

>
>						Paul Scott Bartelt
>						leonardo@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
>
							   _________________
__________________________________________________________/		    \
  Steve White								     |
  INTERNET : ketchum@cs.montana.edu					/___/   
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -   >>>----------------------->
From: leonardo@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Paul Scott Bartelt)
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: cutoff
Date: 9 Nov 92 18:10:31 GMT
Distribution: w
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: leonardo@csd4.csd.uwm.edu

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but anybody with a little ingenuity
could fabricate a cut-off saw from parts bought at a hardware store. A
small highspeed electric motor, abrasive cutting wheel, wooden yard
stick (meter stick for all you outside the US of A)and a few
miscelaneus assembly items shouldn't top $40 (US currency). Why buy
when you can build.

						Paul Scott Bartelt
						leonardo@csd4.csd.uwm.edu


P.S.
	I am an ME student so maybe that's why I think this all looks
	so easy.
From: leonardo@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Paul Scott Bartelt)
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: WHERE IS EVERYBODY?
Date: 5 Nov 1992 22:18:02 GMT
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4
Originator: leonardo@csd4.csd.uwm.edu


	Have all the archers of the world become tight lipped? I have
not seen much posted here lately. What's wrong?

	There has been some discussion in the past about 'walk thru'
ranges. Are there any in the south-eastern Wisconsin / Milwaukee co.
area. If there are, exactly where? E-mail or posting would be
appreciated.



						Paul Scott Bartelt
						leonardo@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
From: lalonde@cs.ubc.ca (Paul Lalonde)
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: Re: Longbows
Date: 9 Nov 1992 11:21:29 -0800
Organization: Computer Science, University of B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
NNTP-Posting-Host: harpo.cs.ubc.ca

vader@meryl.csd.uu.se (]ke Eldberg) writes:
>If you want a D-shaped longbow (original medieval design, no
>cut-out for arrow shelf or anything), these are also available
>but are usually more expensive. I know of no US makers, but there
>are a couple of companies in Britain.

Yumi also makes these.  Also, ask about his footed shafts.  Very nice.
I shot a set for over a year once, about 3 times as long as the
ordinary woods lasted while shooting them four times a week.
(heavier bows are really hard on cedars.  I'm moving to hardwood, but
had to raise my bow weight substantially to be happy with the
spline...)

>Yumi, 94 Mill Street East, Milverton, Ontario, Canada NOK 1MO
>(519) 595 8791

>]ke Eldberg

Paul Lalonde
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis)
Subject: Re: Longbows
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:44:28 GMT

    At the church I work at there is a guy who makes longbows.
Name and address follows:

    Custom Bows by Jon Boyles
    P.O. box 71
    Louisville, Ms  39339
               (601) 773-9292

Not sure about his prices.  Tell him Steve sent ya

Later
Steve

--
============================================================================
Steve Hollis---Your friendly          |  "What for you say you monkey, when
neighborhood zoology major/lit minor  |   you got little powder puff tail
srh3@ra.msstate.edu                   |   like rabbit----RABBIT?"
From: vader@meryl.csd.uu.se (]ke Eldberg)
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: Re: Arrows! Build or Buy?
Date: 6 Nov 92 14:55:01
Organization: University of Uppsala, Sweden
NNTP-Posting-Host: meryl.csd.uu.se
In-reply-to: melin@hlrz24.hlrz.kfa-juelich.de's message of Fri, 6 Nov 1992 07:42:02 GMT

Thanks to Stephan for an excellent posting with advice. Only, your
answer to Brent Irvine omitted one question: He asked whether he 
should buy arrows or make them himself. There are two main reasons
for making one's own:
1. It is cheaper
2. It allows you to get the correct length. This may not matter
   much for instinctive shooting, but if you are using a clicker,
   the length of the arrows is important.
 
For a Hoyt Gold Medalist of 35 pounds, for indoor shooting, I would
recommend Easton XX75 aluminum arrows with 2"-2.5" plastic fletching.

]ke Eldberg
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: irvine@uxh.cso.uiuc.edu (Brent Irvine)
Subject: Arrows! Build or Buy?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 06:23:53 GMT




	I have just put in an order for a Hoyt JOAD Medallist and
	was wondering if I should buy my own arrows or attempt
	(for the first time) to build them?

	And what is a good price to performance material?  Wood?
	Aluminum?  Carbon?  Plastic or feather fletching?

	What is a good price that I should pay for pre-mades
	and parts?

	(BTW- I do not have steady access to a jig for fletching,
	but I would like to know how much one $$$)

	I primarily target shoot at an indoor range.  My bow is
	rated for 35# - a nice rubber band so I can shoot all
	afternoon without any arm fatigue...


-- 
+-------------------------+----------------------------------+ ^  ^  ^
| Brent L. Irvine         |  "Love is blind ... and stupid." | {\{|}/} CLAN
| irvine@uxh.cso.uiuc.edu |                      -M.P.       |  {{|}} IRVINE
+-------------------------+----------------------------------+  o/|\o OF DRUM
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: badger@wixer.cactus.org (Badger)
Subject: Re: Longbows
Organization: Real/Time Communications
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 23:15:21 GMT

In article <VADER.92Nov6150200@meryl.csd.uu.se> vader@meryl.csd.uu.se (]ke Eldberg) writes:
> 
>If you want a D-shaped longbow (original medieval design, no
>cut-out for arrow shelf or anything), these are also available
>but are usually more expensive. I know of no US makers, but there
>are a couple of companies in Britain.
>
>]ke Eldberg

	I have a D section Ash self longbow, maade for me by a friend of mine.
I'm not at liberty to post his name/address, since I haven't asked him if I
could, but If there are people out there who would like the information, I
could ask him if it's ok... 

	He's gonna teach me how to make my own, next... and after I make 
myself a servicable bow from Ash... the next'll be Yew.


-- 
| Kenneth W. Scott        | Lord Gunter von Wissenberg  | Azure, a badger's   |
| Badger                  | Collegium Turris Animarum   | head erased Or      | 
| (Meles meles)           | In the Barony of Bryn Gwlad | masked sable, within|
| badger@wixer.cactus.org | In the Kingdom of Ansteorra | an orle Or. (I hope)|
From: vader@meryl.csd.uu.se (]ke Eldberg)
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: Re: Longbows
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:02:00
Organization: University of Uppsala, Sweden
NNTP-Posting-Host: meryl.csd.uu.se
In-reply-to: irvine@uxh.cso.uiuc.edu's message of Fri, 6 Nov 1992 06:25:50 GMT

Brent Irvine asks:

>Call me old-fashioned, but I like the looks and feel of a
>Longbow (I learned on one).
 
>Does anyone know where they still make them?

Sure. You can get flat longbows from Martin Archery and several
other brands. The best flat longbows I have seen are made by Yumi,
a Canadian bowmaker (he is pricy though, all handmade stuff).
 
If you want a D-shaped longbow (original medieval design, no
cut-out for arrow shelf or anything), these are also available
but are usually more expensive. I know of no US makers, but there
are a couple of companies in Britain.

Yumi, 94 Mill Street East, Milverton, Ontario, Canada NOK 1MO
(519) 595 8791

]ke Eldberg
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: dasaxe@milton.u.washington.edu (Daniel Perreault)
Subject: Re: a couple questions about bow maintenance
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 21:37:27 GMT

In article <BxB8ny.Itr@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> heinold@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Clint Heinold) writes:
>Hello!
>
>I have been reading this group for a couple of months and have
>enjoyed it very much.  I now have a couple of questions for
>everyone:
>
>1)  Although I understand what wheel synchronization is and how
>it affects arrow flight, all attempts to find information about
>checking this myself have been futile.  Could someone tell me
>how this is done?

A generally pretty easy task if you can get the right equipment to do it with.
All you have to do is get the bow drawn in some fashion where you can look at
the wheels, and see if they are both coming over at the same time. The easiest
way I know to do it is to get a block and tackle type set up and mount it on
a ceiling beam and draw the bow straight up with it using a rope. Then it is
easy to look at the wheels. Adjusting them may be more difficult depending on
your gear.
>
>2)  My second question also relates to servicing my bow myself.
>How does one check the tiller of the bow?

Also simple. Take an arrow and put the point of the arrow on the juncture
between the riser and the limb. Swing the shaft out perpendicular to the string
and measure the distance. Do the same thing to the bottom limb and you can
compare the tiller settings on your limbs. These are easily adjusted by        
tightening or loosening the limbs.

>
>3)  Third, how does a change in the brace height of the bow
>affect the tiller and synchronization of the bow?
>
>My bow is a Browning Mag Hunter Supreme which is about 7 years
>old.  I shoot with my fingers, I use Easton 2218's cut to 29"
>and I use a Flipper II style rest.  Oh yeah, I use a 67# draw
>weight and 130 grain broadheads.


As to adjusting the timing of the wheels, if your bow has a micro-tune type
adjuster of the cables then it's easy, otherwise you have to adjust the
cable lengths by taking the bow down and cutting them--A tricky task, I
would definately talk to a shop pro on that one.  

Good Luck,
Dan Perreault
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: bblohm@boi.hp.com (Bill Blohm)
Subject: Re: Help in selecting bow 
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:50:05 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

How about moving the sight's frame?  I assume you have already tried to do
so, but it should be possible to make an extension that will move the whole
sight up without doing anything to either bow or sight frame.  This would
allow her to stick with whichever type of bow she prefers.

Bill Blohm     

*******************************************************************************
Standard disclaimers apply, even if nobody ever listens to me.
*******************************************************************************

bblohm@hpbs1686.boi.hp.com     \\
mage@hpbs202.boi.hp.com         =======\  You pays your money, takes your pick.
bill@hpbs202.boi.hp.com         =======/  They all reach me, or soon or late.
bill_blohm@hp4600.desk.hp.com  //
From: phs454v@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: Help in selecting bow 
Date: 8 Nov 92 15:15:29 +1100
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia

I'd like to ask this newsgroups advice on something.
A friend of mine is looking for a new bow but is having trouble finding one
that she can actually use easily. 
At the moment she is using a 30lb recurve for indoor target shooting at about
20-30 metres (that's roughly the same as yards for the americans in the group).
But the problem is that, at this range her sights sit right at the top of the
slide and so cannot be adjusted any further to shoot greater distances.
The main reason for this her fairly short draw-length; about 26 inches
according to the bows we have tried. At this stage she is not sure whether to
remain with the recurve bow or try a compound with a potentially greater
power but the higher price. For compounds the 35-50 lb bows appear to be
suitable but neither of us knows enough to select a suitable weapon.

Thanks in advance for any help that you are able to provide.

--Peter
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: bblohm@boi.hp.com (Bill Blohm)
Subject: Re: a couple questions about bow maintenance
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 17:46:44 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

I was going to recommend the same book.  It was recently recommended to me
and I have learned a lot from it.  It is only $9.95 and really worth it.
From: alexb@minerva1.bull.it (Alessandro Bottonelli)
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: Bullet proof vests, arrows, and truck tires
Date: 9 Nov 92 22:38:06 GMT
Distribution: alt
Organization: Bull Italia SpA

There was, a few days back, some discussion going on about whether or
not bullet proof vests or glasses would stand a arrow.

Today I found out (not on purpose, I just missed my true target ...)
that arrows can indeed, under the right circumstances, be more effective
than bullets ... During my Army experience some years ago I had learned
that small caliber bullets (say 6 or 6.75 mm) very rarely make much damage
to a tire, especially big tires like those on heavy trucks and especially
in they hit the side of it.

Well, today my arrow (aluminium, from a 55 pound Firecat hunting bow)
was able to pierce a truck tire and still travel an extra 20 centimeters
inside (by brother-in-law, not an archer but the owner of the truck
parked in front of the house was so happy about me experiencing this
on his tires .......), all of this from about 30 meters (say 30 yards
for those of you on the other side of the pond ...).

Well. I had never realized that bows can be that effective like
firearms or better, I will have more respect for my bow from 
today on.

Ciao from Sunny (well almost) Italy

-- 
== Alex Bottonelli / Bull Italia BSP  | FAX  : +39-(0)2-6779/8463          ==
== I.S./W.S./Network Security Officer | PHONE: +39-(0)2-6779/8324          ==
== E-MAIL: A.Bottonelli@it12.bull.it  | (BullCom users dial 260+extension) ==
== BULLTX: /BULLX/IT12X/BOTTONELLI A. |                                    ==
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: melin@hlrz24.hlrz.kfa-juelich.de (Stephan Melin)
Subject: Re: Arrows! Build or Buy?
Organization: Forschungszentrum Juelich GmbH (KFA), Germany
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 07:42:02 GMT
X-Posted-From: hlrz24.hlrz.kfa-juelich.de
NNTP-Posting-Host: sol.ctr.columbia.edu

In article <BxA73v.348@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, irvine@uxh.cso.uiuc.edu (Brent Irvine) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> 
|> 	I have just put in an order for a Hoyt JOAD Medallist and
|> 	was wondering if I should buy my own arrows or attempt
|> 	(for the first time) to build them?
|> 
|> 	And what is a good price to performance material?  Wood?
|> 	Aluminum?  Carbon?  Plastic or feather fletching?
|> 
|> 	What is a good price that I should pay for pre-mades
|> 	and parts?
|> 
|> 	(BTW- I do not have steady access to a jig for fletching,
|> 	but I would like to know how much one $$$)
|> 
|> 	I primarily target shoot at an indoor range.  My bow is
|> 	rated for 35# - a nice rubber band so I can shoot all
|> 	afternoon without any arm fatigue...
|> 
|> 
|> -- 
|> +-------------------------+----------------------------------+ ^  ^  ^
|> | Brent L. Irvine         |  "Love is blind ... and stupid." | {\{|}/} CLAN
|> | irvine@uxh.cso.uiuc.edu |                      -M.P.       |  {{|}} IRVINE
|> +-------------------------+----------------------------------+  o/|\o OF DRUM

I suppose you mean the Hoyt GOLD Medallist target recurve, if not
just ignore the rest of the post.

Arrow materials:
I wouldn't even consider wooden arrows for these high performance 
recurves - I have never heard of nor seen anyone shooting wooden 
arrows from anything else than a traditional bow (longbows etc.).

If you will be shooting indoors only, I would use aluminium arrows,
preferably some heavier ones...
But if you consider shooting outdoors (I mean FITA) then I would go
for the carbons. With these you can have a nice flat trajectory even
on the 90m, so that wind doesn't affect your score too much.
But whatever material you choose, make shure that you get arrow
shafts with the correct spine.

Fletching:
For indoor shooting either feather or plastic fletching will work 
fine. For outdoor shooting I would use plastic fletching only, 
because feathers don't like moisture, they soak up the water like
a sponge...
For carbons one should use very tiny plastic vanes only, like the
smallest spin wings.

Fletching jig:
This thing is a one time investment, so I wouldn't look too much
at the price. Much more important is how accurate one will be able
to fletch the arrows... 

Making arrows:
Usually making aluminium or carbon arrows isn't too difficult, you
buy the arrow shafts (preferably already cut to the correct length),
points (for some arrows you need some inserts too), nocks,  vanes
and the appropiate glues (points/inserts need a different one than
nocks & vanes). If you do not have any experience either ask an 
experienced archer to help you, or try to get some printed 
instruction (should be in the catalogues from the mail order 
stores, or get the one from Easton ...). 

Good shooting
-- 
Stephan Melin

melin@hlrserv.hlrz.kfa-juelich.de   ||    hkf418@djukfa11.bitnet
Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: ketchum@cs.montana.edu (Steve White)
Subject: Re: a couple questions about bow maintenance
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, MSU, Bozeman Mt 59717
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:57:53 GMT

In article <BxB8ny.Itr@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> heinold@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Clint Heinold) writes:
>Hello!
>
>
>1)  Although I understand what wheel synchronization is and how
>it affects arrow flight, all attempts to find information about
>checking this myself have been futile.  Could someone tell me
>how this is done?
>
>2)  My second question also relates to servicing my bow myself.
>How does one check the tiller of the bow?
>
>3)  Third, how does a change in the brace height of the bow
>affect the tiller and synchronization of the bow?
>

Clint and most of you compound shooters,

There is an excellent booklet that answers all of the above questions and more.
It's titled "Tuning Your Compund Bow" by Larry Wise and is published by 
Target Communications Corporation, 7626 W. Donges Bay Rd, Mequon, WI 53092
Get it!
							   _________________
__________________________________________________________/		    \
  Steve White								     |
  INTERNET : ketchum@cs.montana.edu					/___/   
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -   >>>----------------------->
From: vader@meryl.csd.uu.se (]ke Eldberg)
Newsgroups: alt.archery
Subject: Re: Help in selecting bow
Date: 8 Nov 92 19:34:23
Organization: University of Uppsala, Sweden
NNTP-Posting-Host: meryl.csd.uu.se
In-reply-to: phs454v@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au's message of 8 Nov 92 15:15:29 +1100

Peter asks for help in selecting a bow for a lady friend who has
problems with ger 30lb recurve.

>the problem is that, at this range her sights sit right at the top of the
>slide and so cannot be adjusted any further to shoot greater distances.

I think you are mistaken here. If the sight is at the *top* of the slide,
she only has to lower it to shoot at greater distances. It is if the sight
is at the *bottom* of the slide, that she may have problems with longer
ranges. To increase the distance you are aiming at, you *lower* the sight.

A 30lb recurve which is only drawn to 26" will not yield much power,
probably she is only getting 20-25lb. This may be one cause of diffi-
culties with shooting greater distances. The obvious solution is to
get a stronger bow. 

I have seen problems like this vefore. One guy here who was shooting
a 36" recurve had the sight set as low as possible, and this gave a
range of some 30 meters. The problem was solved by learning to hold
the bow differently. I would suggest trying a different anchor point.

]ke Eldberg


Newsgroups: alt.archery
From: rak4960@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Arrows! Build or Buy?
Reply-To: rak4960@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 04:39:58 GMT

DAN I GOT IN. HA!
Newsgroups: alt.drumcorps
From: dci@cs.washington.edu (Donald Chinn)
Subject: Re: Madison music
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 18:55:24 GMT

In article <1992Nov13.094525.5577@desire.wright.edu> byork@desire.wright.edu writes:
>                THE SHOW WILL BE:
>
>                  NUMERO UNO ('81 -ISH)
>                  STRAWBERRY SOUP ( '82 AND '83 I BELIEVE)
>                  REMEMBRANCE ( 1990)
>           
>        I WAS AT THE SCOUTS BANQUET THIS LAST WEEKEND, ADN THE DIRECTOR
>REFERED TO LAST SEVERAL YEARS AS RE-BUILDING YEARS; AND NOW THE CORPS IS
>READY TO MAINTAIN ITS HIGH LEVEL.
>                            BARRY

Is anyone else just a little disappointed that Madison has decided
to go with a show that consists entirely of music they have played before?
At least one new piece would make it a bit more interesting, in my
opinion.

-- Donald
From: R.Vincent.Lamb@um.cc.umich.edu
Newsgroups: alt.drumcorps
Subject: SCV's New Director (was Drum Corps Alias? and Read me, I have Information)
Date: 8 Nov 1992 17:55:02 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway

In article <BxC0yr.FIx@news.cso.uiuc.edu>, bjh42543@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
(Brian J. Haag) wrote (Re: Drum Corps Alias?)
 
>SCV's new director is going to be Lynn Kreschecki. I have no idea how
|>to spell that.  This came from pretty reliable sources.
 
To which rdorocke@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (rob lawrence dorocke)
replied (in article <BxDJ40.98p@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, Read me, I
have Information):
 
|>The correct spelling of SCV's new director is Len Kruszecki.  He has been
|>working for star for the last few years.  Before that he worked with SCV.
 
I thought that's who Brian meant.  He's a guard and m&m man who
worked with Stanley Knaub (check spelling) at the Seattle Imperials
about 1980 (I think).  I wouldn't put it past him to ditch the
cymbal line (the best in drum corps, IMGO) so that it wouldn't
upstage his precious guard.  I hope he knows good horn men--I
suspect he doesn't know much about bugling and drumming.
 
The most memorable thing I've ever heard about him was:
"A thousand Bic lighters can't put out the flame that Lenny
Krusecki does!"  I have no idea if it's true, though....
 
Vince
Newsgroups: alt.drumcorps
From: drapeau@oglala.Stanford.EDU (George Drapeau)
Subject: Re: DCI championship rings
Reply-To: drapeau@sioux.stanford.edu
Organization: Libraries and Information Resources, Stanford University
Date: 7 Nov 92 00:22:04

In article <1992Nov4.011738.10500@vela.acs.oakland.edu> bfhalls@vela.acs.oakland.edu (HALLS BRADLEY F) writes:

   ... No one at Blue Devils marched all six
   of the years they won. (Although the guard captain when I was there may
   have marched 5 of them...her name escapes me at the moment).

Laurel Hansen?  I know she was captain in '85, her age-out year, and
she told me she was captain for some time before that (check out the
shots of her all over the place in, let's see, '83?  '82?  Damn, I
can't remember and I just saw the tape about three months ago).

Anyway, I met her last year at my old high school's band camp
(Ferndale HS, in Washington State) and talked with her more at this
year's camp.  She spent the past couple of fall season's as the band's
guard caption head.  Great, great person.

So Brad, does that name ring a bell?  Sound right to you?

	George
--
______________________________________________________________________________
George D. Drapeau			Internet: drapeau@sioux.stanford.edu
Libraries and Information Resources
Stanford University
Newsgroups: alt.drumcorps