HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu (Charles K. Scott)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Rotory engine rebuild manual?
Date: 11 Nov 92 16:48:49 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@newshost.dartmouth.edu

I've got a Mazda 13B engine I'd like to take apart, inspect, and
re-assemble.  I used to work on piston engines when I was an auto
mechanic, and even tuned the rotories up as I worked at a Mazda
dealership.  But I never had the rotories apart.  I found this puppy at
a salvage yard and it had been sitting quite a while.  My question is: 
Has anyone seen any Petersen's guides that deal with Rotories or any
other publications of this nature lately?  I do have a Rotory manual
which will do, but I like to get as much information as possible before
I jump into something. You know, sometimes the factory manuals skip
over stuff like "watch out you don't miss the little 8 mm bolt hidden
in the corner of the block over here (photo with arrow) which if missed
will cause you to bend the block.  If so, could you E-Mail the phone
number or address or just answer here in rec.autos.tech please.

Also, if anyone has had any experience rebuilding these things I like
to get in touch with you.

Thanks,  Corky Scott

PS, Does anyone know the number to the "Racing Beat" company located in
California?  They build Rotories for racing folks, but that's not what
I have in mind for the one I just got.

Thanks again.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dfoody@telly.tc.cornell.edu (Dan Foody)
Subject: MAF sensors
Keywords: fuel injection
Organization: Cornell Theory Center
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 16:29:26 GMT

My MENG prject at Cornell is to design and build a fuel injection system for
a Honda CBR600 motorcycle engine.  I need to find a cheap source of small mass
airflow (MAF) sensors.  I am looking for sensors 38mm diameter or smaller
(for a < 100HP engine).

Also I would like to know what ranges of air flows are required for MAF sensors to measure mass flow reliably.  And are there limitations on the sensors response time (relative to the time it would take a driver to fully open the throttle from idle throttle position)?

Any information about MAF sensor specs or part cost and availability would
be appreciated.

					Thanks,
						Dan Foody
						dfoody@oscar.tc.cornell.edu
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Paint problems on '90 Nissan Stanza
Date: 9 Nov 92 21:26:32 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

I have a '90 Stanza (made/assembled in USA, purchased new 2 years ago) that
has 'soft' paint.  It is as if the paint had never cured properly.  For
example, the pressure applied by the return string on a gas pump hose was
enough to cause the smooth surface of the nozzle handle to remove a chunk
of paint.  This same phenomenon has resulted in numerous stone chips in
front (more than any car I've ever owned) and chips on the door edges.

For the most part, these chips are on galvanized sheet metal, so there
is almost no rust associated with them (yet!).  However, I am not sure
about how to go about repairing the existing nicks and preventing new ones.
I am fairly handy (a former boat mechanic), but have almost no experience
with body work.

Any suggestions/ideas are more than welcome.

Thanks!

--
--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
From: dburns@cvbnet.prime.com (Dana Burns x4370 5-2)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Honda Rear Brake Drum Removal - How?
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:14:59 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Computervision

I finally tried a drum brake on my suburu recently and had the
same problem, until I read and remembered to back off the
adjustment screw behind the backing plate. Came off real easy
after that. Hope it helps.


-- 
Dana Burns  \\\
             ----===---
            ///
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: djr48312@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (X X)
Subject: Help.  Clutch problems...
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 01:01:32 GMT

I have a friends car that I am going to work on over thanksgiving break. 
I have not seen the car and will not until thanksgiving break.  They
say that initially there was noise and problems when shifting gears.
Eventually they began to "lose" the pedal until now it is at the floor.
they say the car is a ford but don't even know what model it is.  My guess
is its some clutch that is hydraulically activated...  The cyllinder that
is responsible for transferring the force along has leaked out.  Or possibly
it is cable activated, the cable started slipping from its attachement and
is now just hanging loose not able to transfer any force.  Any other guesses?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: cleaning/painting steel wheels
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 13:52:47 GMT

In article <1992Nov9.205114.28346@linus.mitre.org> jdouglas@MITRE.org (Jason Douglas) writes:
>In article <1dmbbbINNj50@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) 
>writes:
>> I bought a set of used steel wheels for mounting snow tires.
>> I want to get suggestions from the net as to how I can
>> clean and paint the wheels.
>> 
>> will wire brushing it then spraying a can of steel wheels color
>> spray paint be sufficient ?
>
>It depends on the condition of the wheels.   I would recommend trying very 
>hard to get as much rust off as possible *before* the new tires are 
>mounted and the wheels become harder to work with.  
>
IMHO, the very best way to clean up a rusty wheel is to sandblast and paint
it before mounting the new tires. I did this with the grungy-looking spare
tire on my '55 Chevy, and it looks factory-fresh. Of course, you've got to 
have access to a sandblaster.

If not, use a wire brush on an electric drill to strip the rust. Then etch 
the metal with something like Dupont Metal Conditioner or Permatex Extend.
Then prime and paint.

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Valve Adjuster, What Are?
Date: 12 Nov 1992 19:19:51 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (REAL LIFE?!?!  HA!!) writes:

>lobe that changes the tension (?) of the valve train for each valve.  On some
>engines (The only ones I *KNOW* use this are some old Alfas), the owner/main-
>tainer must place little metal shims between the cam follower and the valves.

Lots of Jap motorcycles use shims (as do lots of Fiats).  Rugged, light
and cheap.





-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Sudden and Drastic Drop in Gas Mileage
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 17:40:52 -0500

 VS> I will be switching gas stations to rule out bad gas.  However, I can't 
 VS> see how
 VS> the car can start drinking the gasoline by gallons (last 300 miles) and 
 VS> not
 VS> change its performance or driveability by an iota.  Gas is not leaking 
 VS> and it is
 VS> not being siphoned off.  Nothing else can explain this drop.

First check your odometer against mile markers to determine its error. It is
possible you have a problem in your instrument or its drive that can cause it to
indicate fewer miles than you have actually travelled.



From: mikec@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Mike Christensen)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:32:40 GMT
Subject: Oil out Exhaust?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Has anybody dealt with the problem of oil coming out the exhaust.  It
doesn't happen all the time, usually only at start up, and I'm not sure that 
what is coming out is oil.  I just can't imagine what else it could be.  It
doesn't drip oil at the exhaust, it just leaves a mark on the cement, there
is no wetness to it.  Oil comsumption hasn't increased either.  The car is
a 1987 Dodge Caravan with the Mitsubishi 2.6L, 4 cyl. engine.  Any help will
be greatly appreciated.

					Mike Christensen
From: rc7@prism.gatech.EDU (Richard Catrambone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: oil filter for 1987 Toyota Celica
Date: 9 Nov 92 19:02:56 GMT
Organization: Psychology, Georgia Institute of Technology

I recall there being a discussion in the last couple
of weeks about oil filters, but I no longer have access
to it.  Basically the discussion was whether certain
cars should use oil filters only from the car manufacturer
rather than buying a Fram or other after-market brand.
I need to buy an oil filter for my 1987 Toyota Celica
[just bought it a week ago; sold my 1973 Plymouth Duster :(]
and was wondering whether it was reasonable to just go ahead 
and get a Fram filter or whether there was some reason to buy a
filter from the local Toyota dealership.  The filter is
mounted upright in case that is relevant in the decision
(I recall some mention of check-valves or something in
the oil filter discussion a couple of weeks ago).

Thanks.
-- 
CATRAMBONE,RICHARD
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!rc7
Internet: rc7@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Desision on buying 69 Camero
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:09:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> tire wear and maybe safety. The breakaway should be fairly high on a
-> tight posi unit (maybe 50-100lb on a 2' lever, from my experience).

 GM and Ford rate most of their posis at 50 ft-lb for breakaway.
Fortunately, most that I've checked seem to be in the 75 pound range.
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Rockville)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Difference btw R42TS and R42CTS plugs
Date: 6 Nov 92 22:49:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.BxBGr4.83q
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

orscholz@immd4.informatik.uni-erlangen.de (Oliver Scholz (Turo - Backstage)) writes:

>I have a question here: (the summary says it all...)
>Two different sources recommend different plugs for my car,
>and I wonder what the differents between R42CTS and R42TS is...
>It boils down to the 'C'... what does it mean?

The numbers you give look to me like AC plugs, right?  Well, the 'C' stands
for 'Copper.'  It says that the center element is made of (you guessed it)
copper.  I really don't know what is used in the non-copper plugs (Anyone?)
but the two are interchangeable, sharing size, heat range, etc.

-- 
Michael T. Chaffee        |****COLORADO BOYCOTTER******|  ______    
mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu | Professional Slapthologist |  \    /     HATE
Member, Universal Life Church, Sect of Loons           |   \  /  can never be
Annoyance Theatre Platinum Member |     Evil Genius    |    \/  a FAMILY VALUE
From: paul@sdd.hp.com (Paul K Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 240Z-280Z Problems
Date: 13 Nov 1992 10:56:51 -0800
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Corporate Engineering
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

One more detail I forgot about, I'm not sure which years were affected,
but I know that the '78 had troubles with the fuel lines rotting on the
inside and getting tiny little pellets of rubber clogged in the
injectors.  On mine I replaced all of the hoses with Earl's and cleaned
out the injectors and it ran like new.  The symptoms are an intermittent
feeling that it's running lean.  If it runs better with the cold start
injector on, you might want to look at the spray patterns.

paul
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 18:53:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Recently the ethanol tax breaks in Idaho expired and went away.  So did the
ethanol...

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nau@ssesco.com (William Nau)
Subject: Re: New Gasoline Ripoff
Organization: SSESCO
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 19:16:21 GMT

>My info is from a report on "All Things Considered" which is 
>apparently more detailed than your info.  MPG changes should be
>around 3% or so, for newer cars.  For cars older than ~15 years,
>MPG should actually increase.  The reduction in emissions is
>greater than this, so the effect is a real change for the better,
>as far as total emissions.

I read somewhere (could be wrong) that there would be a significant
reduction in C02 emissions.  However, there is a large increase in
some sort of organic emissions.  These emissions were to be just
as harmful as C02, but because they are not classified that way under
law, we are not suppoed to believe it.  I understand that some farm
lobbiest got the law changed so that they organic emissions wouldn't
be counted.

>You are wrong -- alcohol is more expensive than the gas.
>Remember the actual cost of the gasoline is NOT the ~$1.20
>you pay for it at the station.  My memory tells me that the
>actual cost (out of the refinery) is closer to $.60-$.80/gal.
>(or even less, since there are typically $.30 in taxes).

You may be right, but this does not explain why before the alchol
based fuels were REQUIRED, it usually cost several cents less.
If it cost less before, why does it cost more now.  I see it as
becaues they can get away with it.  In this state (MN) we have
no problem producing enough grain to keep up with production.  They
can't blame it on that.

>You are mistaken because you do not have the facts.
>How much more are the costs?  (My impression is that the increase is
>~$.05/gal.)  Are you accounting for the benefits such as cleaner air
>and its effect on the general public health?

Like I said according to my information (how good it is, I don't know)
it does not clean up the air.  It just changes what kind of crap we're
putting into it.  From what I've seen in the past it should also cost
less to purchase.
-- 
William R. Nau
Supercomputer Systems Engineering and Services Company (SSESCO)
511 11th Avenue South, Suite 216
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55415-1536
(612) 342-0003

nau@SSESCO.com
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Seatbelt failure.
Date: 4 Nov 92 16:11:08 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

I have a 92 Grand Caravan.  For the middle bench seat, the right-hand seatbelt
has two mounting places on the floor, to accomodate 2-person and 3-person
bench seats.  To move the seatbelt, you unclip it from one ring and clip it
onto the other.  The clip attached to the belt is essentially a heavy-duty
'dog chain clip', i.e. it has a little piece of spring metal built into it
to keep it from coming unclipped accidentally.  This piece of metal has
broken, and twice I have found myself not belted in as we were driving along.

First, does anybody know if I would be able to get Chrysler to fix this for
free, either out of good will or legal necessity?  The part (a seatbelt
assembly) would cost about $75 as I recall, and installation would be about
$40.

Secondly, if this is happening to enough Voyagers, it could have the makings
for a recall, right?  To whom should I address this concern in Washington?

The fact that I already need to purchase a new lug wrench is another story :-(
Grumble, grumble.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"I can understand Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, but I can't understand mutually
recursive inline functions."  --anon.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Todd O'Connor <todd_oconnor@taligent.com>
Subject: Re: The Gasaver: what's the deal
X-Date: Fri, 06 Nov 92 13:58:13 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 21:54:56 GMT

On the same theory as the "Gasaver" liquid is one that I saw at the local flea
market. You install this small plug-in device between your distributor cap and coil
wire. It supposedly increases your power, improves mileage, and some other really
outrageous things that I can't remember now. (oh yea, you can start the car, in
this case a V-8 with half, or more, of the sparkplug wires disconnected) Anyone
seen or heard of this?

My question is if these "snake-oil" remedies are so great why hasn't some
manufacturer bought them out and included the device on their production cars? 
Until they do I'm not convinced enough by their fast talk.

-tc
todd_oconnor@taligent.com
From: dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Inital acceration lag -- stalling
Date: 11 Nov 1992 16:52:33 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Background:  1981 Buick Regal  3.8L 231 -- all origninal stock.

Problem:  There is a major lag in acceleration occurring when 1)
starting from a complete stop and 2) when putting the pedal down
too fast or too much.  This only just started to happen.  Before
I was enjoying good response and power.  It's been stalling
lately too.  I give it a good 5-10 minutes to warm up.  I have a 
feeling its my carbureator (2bbl Varijet).  Perhaps it just needs
adjusting to the cold.  Before the weather changed the car ran
like new (despite the tapping).  The tranny is new (T350) so 
highly doubt that is the problem.  


		Don
-- 
           __    _______       _        |
      ----/  \  /__  __/  /\  / /------ |216-754-1981
    -----/ /\ \   / /    / /\/ /-----   |dtn@cwns4.ins.cwru.edu
 ------/_____/  /_/    /_/  \/----      |   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajackson@ernie.Princeton.EDU (Andrew William Jackson)
Subject: Re: Jump-starting Seized Engine: POSSIBLE?
Originator: news@nimaster
Keywords: Jumpstart, lubrication, seized, overhaul
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:56:33 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.090732.13323@u.washington.edu> tomy@carson.u.washington.edu (Thomas Tucker) writes:
>
>A single cranking event yielded what sounded like one piston
>stroke (or at least a partial stroke), but no ignition and
>no continued rotation of the crankshaft.  The engine sounded
>as if it was seized for lack of lubrication or as if some
>other resistance were making turning the shaft way too hard.  
>
>Short of pulling the thing apart (or, more likely, my friend
>having a mechanic pull the engine), is there a clever trick
>which might introduce enough lubrication where it's needed
>to allow us to succeed where before we failed?
>

Did you try removing the plugs and squirting oil directly in the 
cylinders?

ajackson@ernie.princeton.edu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: utealt@seanews.akita.com (john tigue)
Subject: Olds Trouble Code Definition 53 = ?
Organization: SEANEWS - Seattle Public Access News + Mail
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 07:07:46 GMT

     I have an 84 Cutlass Supreme from Olds.  The ECM (Electronic Control 
Module) is of the CCC type (Computer Command Control System).  I set up 
the diagnosic jumper so as to get the CHECK ENGINE light to blink out 
the codes.  In my case the only interesting code was 53.  
     My Chiltons for Buick Olds Pontiac 75-87 only says that this code
means:  Faulty ECM.  Does anyone have better information than this?  Any
details will be greatly appreciated.  Thank you.
 
John Tigue                          address:  utealt@seanews.akita.com

--
[] SEANEWS [] Seattle Public Access Usenet News + Mail [] +1 206 747 NEWS []
utealt@seanews.akita.com
From: harmons@.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: valve adjustment
Date: 6 Nov 92 20:21:57 GMT

Reply-To: harmons@mithril.WV.TEK.COM (Harmon Sommer)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: 
Organization: /usr/ens/etc/organization
Keywords: 


>
>the exhaust valves were .003-.005" too tight, while the intake
>valves were all similarly _loose_. ( engine hot ).

Valve recession will cause clearances to tighten up. Cam or follower wear
causes valve clearances to open up. 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fsjb2@acad3.alaska.edu
Subject: "66"chevy truck needs help!!
Organization: University of Alaska Fairbanks
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 09:17:28 GMT

I have got a "66" Chevy truck and am planning to build it.   I have been
looking in the "Trucking" magizines at drop kits(I plan to drop it 2 inches),
wheels, front end kits and engine parts(It has a V6 that I plan to build).  
If anyone can hook me up with some good cheap spots to find brand name stuff
I would be grateful. 
                                               Thanks much
                                                  The Jake
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sudden and Drastic Drop in Gas Mileage
Date: 11 Nov 92 19:07:15 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering

i know the experts will disagree, but i have seen a dramatic
decrease in milage since the nov.1 switch to gasahol.
I noticed the milage change _before_ i realised they switched
the gas, btw.
( '87 fuel injected buick 3.0 )

 
--
  /   george jefferson
\/ *  george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alc@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM (Al Chang)
Subject: Re: Mopar minivan oil consumption
Organization: Grumman Corporation
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1992 17:57:07 GMT

In article <1992Oct31.215130.6307@mwhhlaw.uucp> jim@mwhhlaw (James P. Cavanaugh III) writes:


	   In the last couple of weeks, I have noticed 2 separate late  
   model Caravan/Voyager minivans being followed by small blue clouds.   
   Each one had the "V6" emblem on the fender.
	   Has anybody else noticed these V6s burning lots of oil?  I like  
   to think that it's the Mitsubishi 3.0 instead of the Chrysler 3.3.   
   After all, while Chrysler has historically had some problems in  
   carburetion and electricals, their engine mechanicals have always been  
   tough as dirt with even minimal maintenance.

   Jim Cavanaugh

My friend 3.0 value guide went at 40k and blew slight blue smoke. So
far my 3.3 has none.
--
     ---  My opinions do not represent the opinions of my employer.  ---  
******************************************************************************
Al Chang                                        email: alc@gdstech.grumman.com
Grumman Data Systems                                  Woodbury, New York 11797
******************************************************************************
-- 
     ---  My opinions do not represent the opinions of my employer.  ---  
******************************************************************************
Al Chang                                        email: alc@gdstech.grumman.com
Grumman Data Systems                                  Woodbury, New York 11797