HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: juliec@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Julie Chapman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Nuts And Bolts Of Woodworking - book
Date: 15 Sep 92 16:05:06 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA


#define SHAMELESS_PLUG_ALERT=on

 My uncle, who may have been mentioned in this group before, is J.R. Beall,
 the man who invented that totally swell woodthreader device that attaches to
 your common garden-variety router. He's been selling these woodthreaders for
 some years, and has been bugged/cajoled/threatened by customers into writing
 a book of projects using the device. The book has *just* been published, so
 if you act now, while operators are standing by...
 He also has a nice t-shirt with "The Nuts and Bolts of Woodworking" and a 
 cartoon on it which I'm wearing at this very moment. See below for the blurb 
 and ordering information he gave me. If you end up ordering, please let
 J.R. know you found out through rec.woodworking.

 Julie T. Chapman

--- blurb --- blurb --- blurb --- blurb --- blurb --- blurb --- blurb --- blurb

		THE NUTS AND BOLTS OF WOODWORKING, by J.R. Beall

 After more years than I like to be reminded of, "The Book" is finally done.
 Eleven months of full time effort has gone into its production and we think
 it's pretty good. It's not Moby Dick, but it is different from the average
 woodworking book and we have had fun putting it together.

 THE NUTS AND BOLTS OF WOODWORKING is primarily a project book for wooden
 threads, with some history and gratuitous comment thrown in. The more than
 twenty projects are fully illustrated by drawings and photographs with a
 few cartoons to add spice.

 We have varied the projects, from dead easy to moderately difficult, in
 order to provide a challenge to all levels of woodworkers. Included are a
 number of jigs, fixtures, and tips on threading tools, with a full chapter
 on The Beall Woodthreader.

 Since we published this fascinating treatise ourselves and have to sell
 35,000,000 copies to break even, we hope everyone will buy at least one.
 *As a special inducement for you to buy now, we are including a free $4.50
 value, five size nut template with every advance order that we receive
 before October 15th*. Shipping will begin in the middle of September.

 ONLY $18.95 plus $3.50 postage and handling.
 (T-shirt $12.95)
 Call toll free 1-800-331-4718, Monday thru Friday, 9:00 AM-5:00 PM EST.
 The Beall Tool Co., 541 Swans Road NE, Newark, OH 43055 -- fax 614-345-5880

#define SHAMELESS_PLUG_ALERT=off
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Squaring Up Stock
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 07:53:02 GMT

banks@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Mike Banks) writes:
: > >
: > >Could somebody out there give me some hints on squaring up stock.
: 
: For all the (non-power) hand tool advocates, how is this done 
: using *only* hand tools?

With a hand plane, or set of planes, and a regulated t-square.        

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Which side gets the cleaner cut?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 18:51:09 GMT

JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
: On Thu, 10 Sep 1992 18:25:47 GMT david.boyle said:
: >I have some bi-fold closet doors to put up which need to be trimmed less than
: >1" to better accommodate the rug.  I was planning on trimming the bottom of
: >the doors on a RAS.  What type of blade should I be using for a "clean" cut?
: >Should I place the finish side up or down when cutting?  Any other ideas to
: >keep the door from splintering etc?  Thanks in advance.........Dave
: 
: I'd temporarily tack a strip of 1/4" plywood to both sides of the line to be
: cut and set the opposite end of the door with a 1/4" spacer to keep the door
: nice and flat during the cut

I am not sure what you are proposing. The best ways are to 1) scribe the 
cutting line with a very sharp knife, to a depth of about 1/16 inch. Then
make your cut just "slightly" to the scrap side of this line. The other
way is to tape the line and cut through the tape - this minimizes chipping.

This should be a rip cut that you will be making. There should be minimal
chipping - no matter whether you use one of the above methods, or not.
A good combination blade should work fine. From my experience, carbide  
blades do not seem to cut as cleanly as a well sharpened steel blade. I
am not too sure why that is the case, maybe I have never been able to get
a well sharpened carbide blade.

On a radial-arm saw - the work goes face (finish side) up. Any chipping
should then be confined to the back side.

Bill
From: norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table Saw Kickback
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:17:51 GMT

From what I have read, you should NOT have your fence parallel to the
blade, but have it open away from the blade slightly at the rear.  Over the
length of the table saw this would be from 1/16" to 3/16".  I used to have
the same 'free cut' kickback problem.  I noticed that while I had the saw on
the vibration from the motor caused material to move around on the table. 
The material would also move in the direction the table was leaning (however
slight).  I adjusted the saw so that the table was level (or leaning 
slightly in the direction to clear the cut off) and my problem disapeared.

This might help.

Norm

*******************************************************************************
norm@oliveb.OLIVETTI.COM

                 "Watch this space." -- Acme Advertising
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Squaring Up Stock
Date: 7 Sep 92 21:59:30 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

meiting@gradient.cis.upenn.edu (Mei-Ting Lu) writes:

> Could somebody out there give me some hints on squaring up stock. I have a
> router, 4 inch portable Sears jointer, and power planer. My problem is this:
> by jointing or planing an edge, I can get the edge to be straight, but it is
> not guaranteed that the two cross edges will be parallel.

The jointer is designed to both flatten surfaces and square up edges; that's
what they're usually used for.  You do, of course, have to tune up the jointer
so that the tables are parallel, the outfeed table is the correct height, the
knives are sharp and properly set, and the fence is straight and set square to
the table.  If you do this, you should have no trouble producing square stock.
If the jointer is producing "squared edges" that aren't square, something isn't
set properly.

With my 4" jointer (cheap second-hand one), I had to flatten the warped tables
(grinder and belt sander), grind the (non-dovetailed) table sliders so that the
tables would slide parallel, sharpen and set the knives, and straighten the
fence (warped).  Now it works fine.

Unless you are willing to pay for high quality control in tool manufacturing,
you have to expect having to expend some effort to get even a new tool to work
properly.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Trading Cards ? was (Addresses...)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:36:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Sep10.201153.2468@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>
>>What trading cards?  I have not been in Sears if a while can
>>some one shed some light on this for me.
>
>You have to be one of the very *special* exclusive members of the
>craftsman tool club.  They have the very tough entrance requirements
>that say you must have bought some craftsman tool at some time in the
>past (probably with a credit card).
>
>Sorry you had to find out this way.... :)

But I am a member of the Craftsman Tool Club, I even have the offical 
calander.

Let me restate the question?  What are these cards good for.  Do you
save em up like green stamps or save em for your grandchildren to
play with?


-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com
From: milt@sdd.hp.com (Milt Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Collect'm, Trade'm
Date: 9 Sep 1992 13:11:49 -0700
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hp-sdd.sdd.hp.com

In article <1992Sep4.204535.16863@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>
>>In article <1992Sep3.153611.22339@cs.ucf.edu> clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke) writes:
>>>Have a Craftsman Bench-Top Table Saw trading card (#17).
>>>
>>>Am willing to trade for Band Saw.
>>>
>
>Bench-top table-saw... Hah!  Good luck with that one.  I, however, have the very
>rare, limited edition, crafstman tap-and-die set (# 23).  Will sell to the highest
>bidder (bidding starts at $50, please).
>
>ak
>
>-- 


Ha!  I have the tap-and-die card also.  I'll sell it for only $40.  
Tough Luck.  :-)

mf







-- 

Milt Fisher - Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division
milt@sdd.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scotth@darya.com (Scott Herzinger)
Subject: Re: Black Walnut
Organization: Wind River Systems
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 22:47:13 GMT

On the thread regarding junk embedded in logs cut from folks' yards:

I've come across nails and other metal junk in lumber I've bought
commercially. It's always a surprise, but it's never been more than
that. The steel or iron has always been so soft after beeing in the
tree for decades that my saw blade just went throught it with no
notice. Not that I have a big saw, either. Just a 2HP Inca 259.

Not to say that fireworks don't occur. I would hate to find a ceramic
insulator in a piece of wood that *I* was cutting.

Scott
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier)
Subject: Re: Squaring Up Stock
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 13:30:34 GMT
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier) writes:
: 
: With a hand plane! It will take you less time to do it by hand tools
: than it will to set up everything for the power tools. Stanley makes
: a plane specifically for squaring up an edge. I think the number is 787 - 
: someone help me out here. Woodcraft carries it, and from what I remember
: it's reasonably priced. It's a metal bodied plane.

Boy did I miss that one! The plane I was thinking of is the Record #778,
but it's a rabbeting plane! The only edge trimming one I could find
is in the Garret Wade catalog. They're made by Veritas, and are reproductions
of the Stanley #95. The prices are $109 (US) for the small one and $130
for the large.

I could sware I've seen a similar plane in Woodcraft - maybe they quit
carrying it, or Stanley quit making it.

MMF
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Building a Wall Unit
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 19:21:37 GMT

patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>>1. What type of wood is reccomended when building a wall unit?

>Typically you use a wood which matches your other furniture (or tastes)
>and which is available in both plywood and solid stock. Normally you build
>the majority of the piece out of plywood and make a jointed frame out of
>solid wood for the front and, optionally, the back. Given this technique,
>you are normally limited to maple, oak, fir, cherry, birch, or pine simply
>because these are the normally available plywood facings (you will need "AA"
>plywood for this piece, since both sides of most pieces are visible). With
>a little luck, you may be able to obtain mahogany (*real* mahogany, *not*
>luan) or walnut.

>If your tastes, pocketbook, and scruples allow you to use solid wood
>throughout, you can use about anything. Typically fine furniture is made
>of rosewood, mahogany, walnut, or cherry. Maple and birch fill the middle
>class niche, and are seen a lot in the "Nordic" or "European" furniture
>styles. Oak is a popular wood and isn't as classy as birch. Fir and pine
>are blue-light specials.

This brings up an interesting point.  Most of the plans I see in magazines
for wall units, armoires, large bookshelves, etc., call for hardwood ply
as the main construction material, with normal hardwood for doors, face
frames, etc.

Is this strictly because of money?  If I have the $$, would it be better
to build out of solid wood, or would (no pun intended) I be asking for a
lot of trouble?  I think projects made with plywood, even hardwood plywood
generally look kinda cheap.  Maybe I just haven't seen the higher quality
plywoods -- can they really pass for solid wood?


ak
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
From: omar@az.stratus.com (Omar Stoltzfus)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Kickback
Date: 12 Sep 92 05:38:51 GMT

In article <6327@transfer.stratus.com> omar@az.stratus.com (Omar Stoltzfus)  
writes:
> In article <1992Sep11.184038.5746@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com  
> (bill nelson) writes:
> > tonyo@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM (Tony Ozrelic) writes:
> > : 
> > : Well, I've found (the hard way) that if the saw blade is not parallel to
> > : the fence, you get kickback. Double check your blade/fence alignment.
> > : 
> > 
> > True.  But this does not apply in his case. It was the off side piece that
> > got thrown by the blade - e.g. the piece on the other side of the blade  
from
> > the fence. 
> > 
> if the back of the fence is too far to the right, it will pull the scrap  
piece  
> into the back of the blade.  this may be enough for the blade to grab an edge  
> and kick it back.  the fence should always be perfectly pararrel to the 

                                                          parallel as in the  
same distance apart.

Omar
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: advice on finishing dining table
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:50:03 GMT

Does anybody have a phone number I can call to get Moser's catalog?

Bill
From: smp@cathedral.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Can the Incra Jig and The Incra Fence be my primary router table fence?
Date: 4 Sep 92 21:38:09 GMT


	I have been reading the Incra tread over a last couple of weeks and
have a related question.  Can Incra system function as a principle router
fence?

	I am in the process of making a router table for a Ryobi 3 hp router
and am considering using the Incra Jig and Incra Fence with extender etc as
my principle table fence?  Is this scheme feasible? In other words, do I need
to build another fence and keep the Incra fence as an auxiliary fence to do
some of the things it is better suited to do?

	I would sincerely like to avoid building another fence, If the Incra
can do the job as good as any of the shop made fences (from the WoodSmith/
Spielman/FWW plans).

	All comments and suggestions are highly appreciated.


	Thanks in advance.
--
Shailesh Potnis, Associate	|Concurrent Engineering Research
Member of Technical Staff	|Center, West Virginia University
From: omar@az.stratus.com (Omar Stoltzfus)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Kickback
Date: 12 Sep 92 05:18:14 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.184038.5746@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com  
(bill nelson) writes:
> tonyo@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM (Tony Ozrelic) writes:
> : 
> : Well, I've found (the hard way) that if the saw blade is not parallel to
> : the fence, you get kickback. Double check your blade/fence alignment.
> : 
> 
> True.  But this does not apply in his case. It was the off side piece that
> got thrown by the blade - e.g. the piece on the other side of the blade from
> the fence. 
> 
if the back of the fence is too far to the right, it will pull the scrap piece  
into the back of the blade.  this may be enough for the blade to grab an edge  
and kick it back.  the fence should always be perfectly pararrel to the blade.  
Anyhow, this should be checked on a regular basis and you can do it for free  
:-)

Omar Stoltzfus
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 14 Sep 1992 20:03:42 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Planes...(East vs West)

From what I have read both work equally well.  Japanese planes are
pulled while European planes are pushed.  Fine Woodworking has a good
book on the subject which has sections on both planes.  I have four
Record bench planes, several other metal special purpose planes and
enjoy using all of them.  Number one in importance in my view is to tune
the plane properly and keep the blade sharp.  I marvel at the smooth
surface on cherry from planing compared to sanding. Roger Barry
From: obrien@serum.clpd.Kodak.Com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Shopvac
Date: 15 Sep 92 16:02:00 GMT
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Eastman Kodak Company - Clinical Products Division

In article <14SEP92.21899543.0026.MUSIC@NMUMUS>,         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET> writes:
|> I just fininshed working in my shop and swept it with my Shpovac.  I
|> have had the vac about two years and I am constantly irritated by the
|> hoses coming off when I use it.  My second criticism is the very short
|> cord that comes with the vac.  Do others experience the problem with the
|> hoses and if so do you have a way to keep them on?  It seems to me the
|> manufacturers could correct the hose problem if they cared to.  Roger
|> Barry

I have the sears 16 gallon shopvac and never experienced the hoses
coming off. The cord is plenty long enough. The machine has plenty of
power (2hp) to do ll my general type cleaning stuff. All in all, I am
very satisfied with the shopvac.

John
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: Can the Incra Jig and The Incra Fence be my primary router table fence?
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 22:28:48 GMT

>>>>> On 4 Sep 92 21:38:09 GMT, smp@cathedral.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis) said:

smp> 	I am in the process of making a router table for a Ryobi 3 hp
smp> router and am considering using the Incra Jig and Incra Fence
smp> with extender etc as my principle table fence?  Is this scheme
smp> feasible? In other words, do I need to build another fence and
smp> keep the Incra fence as an auxiliary fence to do some of the
smp> things it is better suited to do?

The only reason I could ever think of any use for a router fence other
than the Incra would be if you had a router bit so large that it would
cut into the rather modestly sized cutout in the Incra fence.  In that
case, you could just attach a piece of plywood to the face of the
Incra fence using the already drilled holes in it.

If anybody can see any other reason for a second fence, I certainly
would like to hear about it.  I have been using my Incra for a couple
of years now, and never have needed an auxiliary fence.

-- 
Dion Hollenbeck       UUCP: {uunet, ucsd, sun}!megatek!hollen
                      INTERNET:            hollen@megatek.com
Megatek Corporation  9645 Scranton Rd.  San Diego, Ca.  92121
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: shop tools
Date: 10 Sep 92 20:10:31 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

bednarek@picard.med.ge.com Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-) writes:

> After several E-Mail replies it seems like I should add a few more point...

It's still not enough information; there are so many factors.  Some people love
working with handtools; others only want to use fancy power tools.  One person
uses his tablesaw to do almost everything; others--like myself--dislike
tablesaws.

I don't know how much of a factor money is for you.  Do you want a $20,000 list
of power tools, or do you have only $500 available and want to know what tool
is the best use for that money?

I repeat my earlier suggestion: start a project, and when you reach a point
where your available tools can't do the job, look at the options for tools that
can do the job.  Think of other projects you want to do and work through them
in your mind.  What steps can't you do for lack of appropriate tools?

Only you can work out your personal priority list.

If you have specific questions, such as "what are the options for cutting
mortises", you'll probably get a lot or replies, from which you'll have to
figure out which aspects (speed, precision, price, etc) are important for you.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Bottom Line-Which Table Saw Is Best?
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 19:00:44 GMT


>And your switch should have the "off" button standing higher than any other
>button on the box.  Someone in panic and pain must be able to shut down
>the tool with a closed fist (or a stump, if it gets as bad as that).

Gross!  That's a mental picture I could sure do without.  If all you
have left is a stump, then what *else* would you have stuck in the saw
that you were in such a hurry to turn it off?  

I think the key issue here is that it is easy to turn the saw off during
normal operation, so you don't have to be too distracted from the
spinning blade while turning the saw off.
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcain@copper.uswest.com (Michael Cain)
Subject: looking for stores selling hand planes
Originator: mcain@copper
Organization: U S WEST Advanced Technologies
Distribution: co
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 21:57:38 GMT


The FAQ answers don't really answer this question.  I'm looking for
recommendations for stores in the metro Denver area (northwest and
Boulder would be better) that stock a variety of hand planes.  Or,
references for good mail-order dealers.  I'm not necessarily looking
for antiques or bargains, just good tools at fair prices.

Thanks in advance,
Mike Cain
mcain@advtech.uswest.com
From: JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeff - Griffin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need Plywood Source 3/16-1/4"
Date: Wed,  9 Sep 92 02:06:30 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

Can anyone recommend a source for multi_ply 3/16 or 1/4" plywood?
 
Hardwood on both sides is preferred but hardwood on one side w/Poplar on the
other is acceptable.
 
I'd like these in 4x4' panels (though 2x4' would suffice).
 
Sources in MA, RI, CT preferred but Mail_order houses would be considered.
 
Thanks,   Jeff Griffin
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: busey@milton.u.washington.edu (Thomas Busey)
Subject: Plans/kits for cider press?
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 23:41:56 GMT

I'm looking for plans or an inexpensive kit for a simple table-top cider press.
The basic premise looks simple enough, I think I just need the plans, and a 
source for the specialty hardware.  This must have been covered by some 
magazine somewhere, but I haven't seen an article.  I did notice an ad for
plans in the back of Harrowsmith.

Thanks for any info.

Tom
busey@u.washington.edu
From: omar@az.stratus.com (Omar Stoltzfus)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Carbide vs. high speed steel
Date: 12 Sep 92 05:34:06 GMT

> A good combination blade should work fine. From my experience, carbide  
> blades do not seem to cut as cleanly as a well sharpened steel blade. I
> am not too sure why that is the case, maybe I have never been able to get
> a well sharpened carbide blade.
> 
> On a radial-arm saw - the work goes face (finish side) up. Any chipping
> should then be confined to the back side.
> 
> Bill

carbide is much more brittle then steel. steel will support a much thinner edge  
then carbide.

Omar
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking