HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: puetz@lisboa.ks.uiuc.edu (Benno Puetz)
Subject: Re: recommendations on wide angle lenses needed
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 03:31:30 GMT
Keywords: Vivitar 17-28

Has anyone bought the supposedly new Vivitar 17-28mm lens yet?

I just found it in a catalog and it sounds interesting...

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Benno Puetz                          E-mail: puetz@lisboa.ks.uiuc.edu
Univ. of Illinois                            
405 N. Mathews Ave.                  Tel.  : (217) 244-1851
Urbana, IL 61801                     Fax   : (217) 244-8371
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: frankenp@argon.gas.uug.arizona.edu (Paul Frankenstein  )
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Incredible blue sky
Date: 10 Nov 92 15:09:23 GMT
Organization: x=(x^2)+C

In article <1992Nov9.031341.8468@umr.edu> tonyp@cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips) writes:
* 
* My question is, how in the world did the photographer get the sky to be that
* dark, yet the balloons to be so bright?

As well as a polarizer, which many have suggested, the picture may have been 
taken in the early morning.
--
frankenp@gas.uug.arizona.edu
paulf@hacks.arizona.edu
"Bagels are great for backpacking."
	-- Mike Cottingham
From: gpalo@digi.lonestar.org (Gerry Palo)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Question for photo techies
Date: 13 Nov 92 23:30:01 GMT
Distribution: rec.photo
Organization: DSC Communications Corp, Plano, TX

Here is a question/proposal for photo techies, perhaps Kodak 
types or others interested in camera, film, and enlarger/printer 
manufacturing technology.

Would automatic printers be better able to adjust for correct 
color balance if, in addition to scanning the  negative and 
taking manual input from the human operator, they knew the 
actual settings and conditions under which the picture was taken?

Suppose we could have a 35mm or other film with a magnetic strip 
on which an auto-exposure camera could record the exposure 
information - light value, aperture, shutter speed, and perhaps 
even the presence of a filter (that would have to be electroni-
cally coupled too), whether there was an electronic flash, etc.

Perhaps there is other information the camera could record 
that would not be required for correct exposure but could be
useful for the printer. The camera could even allow the 
photographer to record information manuallyon lighting conditions 
etc. Or the photographer could record a reference photo, e.g. 
of a color card, and press a button that would tell the printer
that the pictures that follow should be calibrated according to
the color reference card. Informational data such as time stamp,
photographer's name, etc, could also be recorded there instead 
of printing it right on the emulsion. The photographer might be 
able to indicate by some camera control mechanism a portion of 
the frame that should get the main attention from the printer,
e.g. the darker faces in a backlight scene.

My first thought of this comes due to unpleasant experiences 
with photo labs, who often don't get the color balance right, 
especially with mixed indoor/sunlight lighting conditions or 
changed lighting conditions on the same roll.  But maybe a 
system like this would be even more valuable for professional 
and scientific use.  It would certainly require new technology
and be more expensive.

Anyway, would making the information electronically available 
to the printer or enlarger be worth the trouble?

One more relevant thought.  Most of the computer oriented 
thinking about cameras is looking to all digital cameras replacing 
silver and dye based photography very soon.  This may happen, 
but I think it will be a long time before digital photography can 
match conventional photography in quality, resolution, and above 
all the range of cameras, lenses and peripheral equipment that 
are already at hand. So how about more hybrid developments, such 
as the above, which would combine digital technology with 
conventional photography?  It is done, of course, with modern auto-
focus/exposure cameras and printers, but it seems that there are
more possibilities waiting to be discovered before the all digital
future arrives.

Comments appreciated.

Gerry Palo (73237.2006@compuserve.com)
From: kjm@ubbpc.tredydev.Unisys.COM (Ken J. McFadden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Did this group split while I was gone?
Date: 6 Nov 92 16:52:51 GMT
Organization: Unisys UNIX Portation Center, Blue Bell, PA

Way back when I lost my new feed in August, the majority of readers
seemed to want to keep a single group.  But now that I'm back I
noticed rec.photo and rec.photography.  What's the purpose of the
2 groups, cause it ain't obvious by their names.

---
Ken McFadden  Unisys Corporation  Open Systems Marketing Services
tredysvr!ubbpc!kjm@gvls1.gvl.unisys.com  (215) 986-3326
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wally@boi.hp.com (Wally Overton)
Subject: Re: Nikon EM ***
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 16:49:20 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

For the EM class of camera you would be better served by the FG or FG-20.  They
should not cost much more.  The FG has full shutter control, with an AUTO
capability, and TTL strobe control.  The FG-20 lacks the TTL feature.  The FG
and FG-20 have a more robust (metal) body.


 ////////   Wally Overton, wally@hpdml45.boi.hp.com, (208) 323-2819   \\\\\\\\
 \\\\\\\\      Disk Memory Division, Hewlett-Packard, Boise, ID       ////////
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rslugg@med.unc.edu (Robert Slugg)
Subject: Re: Light leak with long exposure
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 22:44:37 GMT

The problem is most likely too much aggitation during processing, the
areas around the sprocket holes are being overly developed.

Bob

Organization: Hunt Institute for Botanical Documentatn, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:24:44 -0500 
From: "Frank A. Reynolds" <fr0c+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: 4x5 dups of 4x5 trans


Anyone work a commercial photo lab?

What kind of equipment do they use to make 4x5 duplicates of 4x5
transparencies?

I cannot find any information on equipment dedicated to making 4x5
duplicates.  The only equipment listed in catalogs is 35mm duplicators
that have a attachment to copy 4x5 film, I have tried the one for the
Beseler duplicator and it does not work (uneven illumination due to poor
design).  I have called photo stores and I have been told to "use a 4x5
negative enlarger carrier" and "try a transparency viewer and some CC
filters" or "try a 4x5 enlarger with a color head".  Is that the way to
go?


Any push in the right direction would be appreciated.

Frank Reynolds
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Re: Calculating exposure with wide-angle lens
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:29:07 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <1992Nov9.133510.18981@aisb.ed.ac.uk> eddie@cstr.ed.ac.uk (Eddie Rooney) writes:
>I use exposure tables with my SLR because the built in TTL light meter is
>broken.  Mostly they work fine, but I've discovered that when I use my 35mm
>wide-angle lens my pictures are overexposed.  Is this because of the lens
>construction (number of elements etc.), or because you are taking in more
>light (from a larger area), or both, or something else?  Is there a simple
>way to compensate for this, or some rule I can follow which will tell me
>how many stops to close down the aperture (or in the case of longer focal
>lengths, to open up)?  Thanks for any advice.

If the f-stops are properly calibrated this shouldn't happen.  

I'd suggest checking your lens to see that it stops down properly
during exposure.  It might be stuck.  The correct diameter is the
focal length divided by the f-number.  The diameter you want to use is
the apparent diameter as seen through the front element.  There will
be some parallax because your ruler won't be in the same plane as the
image of the diaphragm, so you'll have to mentally compensate for it.
Or you can just check functionally.  If it is an f/2.8 lens, check
that 4 is a little smaller, and 5.6 a little smaller yet, etc.

  -- David Jacobson


Organization: Junior, Chemistry, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:59:26 -0500 
From: "Glen M. Devries" <gd1a+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: FOR SALE:Canon 28-80 f3.5-4.5 USM EF lens - mint

FOR SALE:

Canon 28-80 f3.5-4.5 USM EF lens for EOS cameras
Mint condition with all original packaging and box. 
Blank warranty cards.

$275 including shipping in USA.

Please respond by e-mail to gd1a+@andrew.cmu.edu

Xref: sparky rec.photo:19321 alt.graphics.pixutils:2566 comp.sys.mac.apps:16790 alt.cd-rom:4293
From: jogl@merry.imsd.rwth-aachen.de (Joachim Glaubrecht  #Alwd#)
Newsgroups: rec.photo,alt.graphics.pixutils,comp.sys.mac.apps,alt.cd-rom
Subject: Re: Kodak statement about Photo CD System
Date: 5 Nov 92 12:41:24 GMT
Organization: Institut f. Med. Statistics @ Dokumentation



-- 
  ___             ____________________________________
 /  /  _____     !  jogl@tolkien.imsd.rwth-aachen.de  !
 __/__/_/ Gl     ! Inst. f. Med. Stat. & Doku. (IMSD) !
/_/              !___Aachen__Germany__Europe__Earth___!
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: llamas@itd.itd.nrl.navy.mil (Winston Llamas)
Subject: 3rd party lens info wanted
Reply-To: llamas@itd.nrl.navy.mil
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 21:03:00 GMT

Has anyone used (or have more info on) the following AF lenses:

Sigma 28-70 f2.8 fixed aperture zoom
Sigma 70-210 f2.8 APO zoom
Tokina 100-300 f4 ATX zoom

Tamron 1.4 x AF teleconverter

I am interested in the AF versions of these lenses.  Thanks for any info.

Winston
--
#========================================================#
# Winston M. Llamas       email: llamas@itd.nrl.navy.mil #
#========================================================#
From: atomas@geloser.login.qc.ca (J-F Bissonnette)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Incredible blue sky
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 92 20:22:24 EST
Distribution: world
Organization: Gentleman Loser System, Montreal/Qc/Cdn

smustopo@nyx.cs.du.edu (sofjan mustopoh) writes:

> In article <1992Nov9.031341.8468@umr.edu> tonyp@cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips
>  writes:
> >For those of you who read Popular Photography, look in the newest issue
> >at the Kodak Ektar awards.  There is a beautiful picture of some hot-air
> >balloons rising over a lake.  Notice the blue sky.
> >
> >My question is, how in the world did the photographer get the sky to be 
> hat
> >dark, yet the balloons to be so bright?  I would guess the photographer 
> asn't
> >using a ND grad filter because the balloons aren't darkened.  I've also 
> eard
> >that a polarizing filter helps darken the sky, but I havn't ever acheive
>  
> >that startling of a result.
> >
> >Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> >
> >-- 
> >|  Tony Phillips-  University of Missouri CS Dept.  |  Programming: A no
> n   |
> >|                                                   |  meaning 'The Art 
> f   |
> >|  Reply to:  tonyp@cs.umr.edu                      |  debugging a blank
>     |
> >|  Prefered Address:  S102066@UMRVMA.UMR.EDU        |  sheet of paper'  
>     |
> 
> 
>   I don't claim i can repeat the result. but i got several
>   very dark blue sky. i used polarizer. and i think the sky 
>   happen to be very clear. and almost no pollution.
>   and if you happen to take the picture at high altitude
>   the sky can also become very dark blue. and if you use
>   polarizer you can end up with black sky.
> 
>     I think we can see those in several picture took on
>   the top of mount everest.
> 
>   Muskie
>   Sofjan Mustopoh
>   Smustopoh@nyx.cs.du.edu
> 
OK, it's good to know that a polarizer will indeed darken the 
sky but it's wont do it unless you are in the proper position
relative to the sunrays.



              ========================================

                                X


                                C



                               SUN
======== (sky)
X  ====>  subject
C  ====>  camera


This is the best position to assume when you want to have
dark blue on your pictures, otherwise the blue will become
fainter.  Black skys are due to developping... not the
shooting (if the negative is well exposed of course...)

J.F.


--
atomas@geloser.login.qc.ca
Gentleman Loser System -- Montreal, Qc, Canada
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hamish@netcom.com (Just Another Deckchair on the Titanic)
Subject: Re: Medium format - buying advice wanted
Organization: Pandemonia PLC
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 21:20:34 GMT

In article <46520045@hpscit.sc.hp.com> feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman) writes:
>I used to own a 6X7 (Pentax). I found the lenses that I owned to be the
>sharpest I have ever had the pleasure to work with. I had the 55,75,105,and
>165, all the latest versions. I used the 165 and 105 extensively with
>extension tubes and loved the results.
>
> [...]

I want to second this - I've owned a Pentax 6x7 (with the 55mm, 90mm,
and 165mm lenses) for about 18 months now, and this combination has
produced sharp, grain-free negatives and transparencies well beyond my
expectations. With mirror-lock-up and a good tripod, the results were
equal to much of the work I'd previously done with a Hasselblad; when
hand-held, as long as you get used to using MLU or use fast film, it
produces surprisingly good results (making it suitable for
backpacking). Frankly, although I was skeptical at first, the lack of a
changeable film holder doesn't seem to be a real problem (film is
cheap, and Pentax bodies aren't a lot more expensive than Hassy film
backs...).

At any rate, there's probably only one hard-and-fast rule for medium
format (IMO):

	If you're buying an SLR, mirror luck up (MLU) is *absolutely
	essential* for all but the odd snapshot.

(this seems to rule out some of the Bronicas, unfortunately).

	Hamish
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Hamish Reid   +1 510 596-3917   hamish@netcom.com   hamish@sybase.com
From: laurap@neuro.duke.edu (Laura Elizabeth Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: a question of color
Date: 10 Nov 92 21:11:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.6894
Distribution: usa

I would like to hand-tint my black and white photographs. I need to know
what kind of paint (ink, whatever) is best for this, and any generaly hints
on how to go about doing it! Thanks for the help! (email is fine)

laurap@neuro.duke.edu

kiwi

-- 

her nose is painted pepper sunlight
From: kjm@ubbpc.tredydev.Unisys.COM (Ken J. McFadden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Bruce White, what is your email address?
Date: 10 Nov 92 22:56:40 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Unisys UNIX Portation Center, Blue Bell, PA

Bruce White,

I have been told that my email is working again (I don't believe it
though).  I tried the following from an old message:

  tredysvr!gvls1!ws029.torreypi (Bruce White 3807)
  ws029.TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com

But neither of these worked.

---
Ken McFadden  Unisys Corporation  Open Systems Marketing Services
tredysvr!ubbpc!kjm@gvls1.gvl.unisys.com  (215) 986-3326
kjm@ubbpc.tredydev.unisys.com
burdvax!ubbpc!kjm
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mail Order from Canada
Date: 7 Nov 1992 12:28:10 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Siva:

Watch out!  There is no such thing as duyty free on stuff made out of North
America and shipped to Canada from a US distributor unless there is no
Canadian tariff on that item...no matter what the ad says!  Also, do your
number crunching including dollar exchange, any duty and brokerage fees.

You will find that with the dollar the way it is the aggregate landed 
price differential from US dollars to Canadian dollars runs from 30 t
50% once all costs are factored in.

As well, European equipment (such as Sinar, Hasselblad, Rollie and Leica) is
cheaper in Canada!!!  There must be higher duties into the US from these
countries, or the distributors in the US are raking it in.  Case in point..
I just ordered a Hasselblas Pro Shade (new version bellows shade) from
Toronto for $339.00 inclusing the mounting ring.  The same order in the
US is US $324.00 which factors out to about $450.00 Canadian once all
costs are added (duty, exchange and brokerage fees as well as gst) Factoring
out the GST you still end up paying $420.00 which is $81.00 more!!

The only things I buy in the US are those unavailable in Canada, or certain
stuff made in Japan which still comes in less expensive when all is
said and done.

Also, don't forget warrantees and CSA approval -  not all US origin
equipment has a Canadian warranty whiuch means shipping it back to the
US for repairs along with associated hassles - the Canadian distributors
will NOT, by and large, touch their brand names brought in from the US
by bargain hunters.  If you are buying lights and can't get them
CSA certified...watch out for your insurance...


brian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: smustopo@nyx.cs.du.edu (sofjan mustopoh)
Subject: Re: Sigma Zoom Lens Recommendation
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Keywords: zoom lens
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 06:38:24 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.185916.26025@uxmail.ust.hk> cswstang@uxmail.ust.hk 
Tang Wai Shing Wilson) writes:
>Hi there,
>
>I just want to ask if anybody have any experience on Sigma 70-210 3.5 AP

>zoom len?  I found it is the relative cheap one within other brands.
>Is this a satisfactory choice?  I have heard the previous Sigma 70-210 4
0
>is notorious.  Is it right?  (I think the later APO version is better.)
>Any other suggestion, e.g. Tokina or else?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Regards,
>Wilson.
>
>
>


  I have Sigma APO 70-210 3.5-4.5 for 2 years now.
  it is a good lens. Just avoid shooting wide open and
  low shutter speed. and beware of flare.

      in the Spec Pop Photo given. it stated that this lens 
  can go down to 1:1.9 magnification. It is bull. you
  have to attach Sigma 2 el close up filter to get that
  . In my opinion extra bucks i spent for this lens is 
  worth it. 

      The things i hate about this lens is the shade .
  it is a screw on type which is a pain in butt to put on
  . 
   Muskie
   Sofjan Mustopoh
   Smustopoh@nyx.cs.du.edu

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Subject: For Sale: Telex Caramate 4140 Slide Projector/Viewer
Organization: Red Bank, New Jersey
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 92 05:14:49 GMT

For Sale: Telex Caramate 4140 Slide Projector/Viewer

* Autofocus.  Once you adjust the focus on the first slide, it will
  autofocus the rest of the slides.  [All autofocus slide projectors
  from other brands work that way.]
* Very similar to Kodak Ektagraphic Audio/Visual Slide Projector/Viewer.
  It has a bright built-in 9" x 9" daytime viewer.  You can select either 
  a 6"x9" view or a cropped 9"x9" view.
* Accepts Kodak's carousel.
* Has a carousel storage compartment in the back.
* Unfilled customer registration card with a warranty information card.
  I still keep the original box.
  [I bought it approximately a year ago.  Warranty period is 24 months.
  So you will be covered for about a year, if you care to know.]
* Has been used for home entertainment.

B & H price was $319.00 or $309 plus S/H.  Current Adorama price seems 
$329.9?  [Please check Pop. Photo for yourself.  I do not subscribe to it.] 

$260 or best offer!   Buyer pays the UPS shipping fee.
===================

Bonus: two 140-slide carousels [each costs ~$10.00].  One spare lamp.  [It
       was about $20.00].  I did not check whether it really fits, since
       the original one is still OK.   I bought it from B&H also.

(I hope that a local buyer will pick this up with CASH.  But it's just a 
 hope.)

Please reply either by email or by phone.

	G. Hugh Song
	Bell Communications Research.
	hsong@ardour.bellcore.com

	(908) 758-3310
	(908) 544-8996 evening/weekend.
From: philw@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Philip W White)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Looking for Slide Storage Information
Keywords: archival storage
Date: 7 Nov 92 00:00:09 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.

Slide storage pages (for 35mm slides) claimed to contain
no PVC are available from:
  Exposures
  2800 Hoover Rd
  Stevens Point  WI  54481
    800-572-5750
 
The pages each hold 20 slides; prices are $0.70 per page
if buying only 10, $0.50 per page for 50 or more pages.
 
I have never seen these slide storage pages but I have mail
ordered other storage stuff from them in the past and they
did in fact send me what I wanted.
 
      Phil White   Tektronix, Beaverton, OR
USENET:  philip.w.white@tek.COM
 US Mail: Mail Stop 59-432, P.O. Box 500, Beaverton OR 97077-0001
From: zhangyi@ucbeh.san.uc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Universal TeleConverter???
Date: 7 Nov 92 19:29:25 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Cincinnati

Hi netter,  


             I recently want to buy a teleConverter for my Camcorder and
Camera.  What I have are Sony CCD-TR71 (filter diameter 37mm) and Olympus
IS-1 SRL camera (filter diameter 49mm).   There is a standard 1.5x
teleconverter for Olympus ,  but I want a 3x convereter which can be used for 
both machines. So my question is that: Can any converter be used on any
camera or my Olympus? what's the image quality? I know converter will fit the
camcord without quality loss.  Also I want to know where I can buy the adapter
ring for 37mm and 49mm with the converetr. What is the best one for this 3x
 teleconverter the  price about $100 and where to buy?

	    I appreciate any response.  and thank you very much.
  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Embarrassed with Ektachromes
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 15:34:14 GMT

In article <7466@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM>, briand@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Brian D Diehm) writes:
...
> But beware, I'm only passing on rumors. Does anyone have facts?
> 
K-12 Kodachrome came out in 1934 or so. Thats about 60 years of real life
testing, not extrapolation of lab tests. The photo-fading of K-14 is well
quantified and reported. Dito E-4, E-3 and I would say E-6 though I have not
seen a paper on it. Don't have refs at hand, but a good library will soon
turn up more than you need. British Journal of Photography and The Journal
of the Society of Television and Motion Picture Engineers are 2 good starting
places.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Subject: Re: Enlarger tips wanted
Reply-To: donl@glass.esd.sgi.com (donl mathis)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:06:32 GMT


In article <1992Nov9.011346.15288@andersen.co.uk>, sdpage@andersen.co.uk
(Stephen Page) writes:

|> [...]

I have a pair of enlarger tips on my shelf; they're the older,
cast-iron variety, rather than the newer aluminum style, but they
should still get the job done.  I'd be happy to sell them to you at a
very reasonable price.  In fact, you can have them free, if you pay the
shipping.

:)

- donl mathis at Silicon Graphics Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA
donl@sgi.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens