HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: UV light
Date: 12 Dec 92 16:02:37 GMT
Reply-To: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

>>     I have noticed that the amelanistic Corn Snakes at the local pet store do
>>not look nearly as good or as healthy as mine and they are under UV and mine arenot. Just a minor observation.
>
>>                                                   ~Steve
>
>Interestingly, snakes are thought not to need UV the way that some lizards
>do because they are thought to have evolved from a burrowing lizard-like
>ancestor. Being burrowing, they would have needed to evolve to be able to
>get along without UV because they would be underground most of the time,
>and therefore away from sunlight.




	Does this mean that regular light bulbs are in or out. I have it on for
about 10 hours for Tabatha (Albino Corn).

                                               
                                                      Treky and Tabatha
							    N8VFZ

P.S.
----
Live long and prosper.
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Monday, 14 Dec 1992 14:19:57 EST
From: <COP80208@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Swimming/Leaping Lizards! Do they swim?
 <1992Dec09.214033.28479@news.mentorg.com> <1992Dec11.021110.1@alien.gici.com>

My water monitor, Spot, uses his water dish as a litter box all the time.
On the one hand, it makes cleaning up after him very easy. On the other,
I have to change his water several times a day.
Mike
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Force-feeding info wanted
Date: 16 Dec 92 21:06:15 GMT
Organization: Department of Music, UCDavis


 Much thanks; the little beast is finally eating again. I tried giving her
a light cycle as someone suggested (My mail spool got deleted so I don't
have who it was) and waited a few days; whether it was the light or she just 
got hungry enough I don't know... anyway, she's still only eating once
every five days or so, but its better than not at all. Thanks a lot for the
help and advice!

 -Otter not Nathan
From: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: herp. BBS press release
Date: 12 Dec 92 16:05:19 GMT
Reply-To: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology

>The Herpetology Online Computer Network   (Herp-Net)  invites all modem users 
>to participate in its international communication system for those interested 
>in the study, propogation, or conservation of reptiles or amphibians. Herp-Net 
>was  created to facilitate the exchange of information and ideas among zoos, 
>herpetologists, veterinarians, biologists, conservationists, and the
>interested 


	Anyone know if we can get to this by Telnet?

                                               
                                                      Treky and Tabatha
							    N8VFZ

P.S.
----
Live long and prosper.                   
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 23:19:18 -0500 
From: "Jennifer E. Swofford" <IGUANA+@CMU.EDU>
Subject: Regarding cedar and my new ig!
	<1992Dec10.174508.23450@radian.uucp>

Hey, about this cedar chip thing - how about pine shavings?  I use them
in my igs' litter box.  I can't imagine they'd be bad.  I wasn't
surprised when I learned about the cedar, but pine seems so pure... :)

Well folks, I brought home a new iguana from the pet store on Wednesday!
 Yeah, in case you haven't heard, I'm working at a pet store.  I never
thought it'd happen, either, especially since this pet store thread has
popped up again.  But the one I work for I'm very impressed with.  Plus,
I monitor the treatment of the herps.  There's lots of them.  One of the
parakeets died overnight, however, which didn't please me one bit.  And
I found an egg in a male canary's food bowl this morning as well... the
status of the bird department leaves me with lots of questions.  BUT - I
fell in love with this little bitty iguana.  It's really bright green,
and really fat.  He eats a ton.  The day after I got him, he ate a whole
bowl of food.  I mean, I didn't think that half of the food in that bowl
would even fit in his stomach.  But he's cleaned out his bowl every day.
 I've been calling him Sherbert.  He's adorable.  His body is about 3
inches long.  I was sure he'd die on me, just cuz I've always been
afraid of such little guys.  But he's very hardy and very active.  I
have high hopes for him.

Herp count is up to 8.  My personal high.

Write ya later!


-------------------------------------------------------
Jennifer E. Swofford     

iguana+@cmu.edu   

Formerly affiliated with Carnegie Mellon University
Potentially affiliated with Carnegie Mellon University
-------------------------------------------------------






Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: simonb@extro.ucc.su.OZ.AU (Simon Blomberg)
Subject: Re: Swimming/Leaping Lizards! Do they swim?
Organization: Sydney University Computing Service, Sydney, NSW, Australia
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 02:38:18 GMT

laut@alien.gici.com (Bill Laut) writes:

>In article <1992Dec09.214033.28479@news.mentorg.com>, sshostek@sshostek.mentorg.com (Steve Shostek) writes:
>> According to Harald Jes in _Lizards in the Terrarium_, p 70,
>> Iguanas love to swim and will drop most feces while bathing. 
>  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>> 
>> [...]
>>

>Is this true of other lizards, such as monitors, etc.?  I'm still looking 
>into getting my BIG "lap-dog" LIZARD, and this sounded interesting.

>-- 
>Bill Laut			Internet:  laut@alien.gici.com
>Gull Island Consultants, Inc.	Phone:     (616) 780-3321
>Muskegon, MI  49440		>> "Usual disclaimers, apply within" <<

I think that almost all goannas (monitors) will swim if they have to.
Two species, V. mitchelli and V. mertensi are well known for their
swimming behaviour (V. mertensi especially). These species live along
water courses and enter water voluntarily, especially when threatened by
humans.

Simon.

-- 
Simon Blomberg                                   simonb@extro.ucc.su.OZ.AU
School of Biol. Sciences, A08
University of Sydney           We demand the right to stop to look even at
NSW   2006  Australia          lizards, who are nobody's property. -JBS Haldane
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Wood shavings
Date: 16 Dec 92 21:09:44 GMT
Organization: Department of Music, UCDavis


Corn cobs may have some problems too I gather; sorta like kitty litter,
they can get ingested or inhaled or cause blockages, or so one of the herp
vets has told me..
 Me, I use cage carpets or alfalfa pellets.
From: tracer@carson.u.washington.edu (David P. Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Smelly hot rock -- CLEAN BY SAFE/CHEAP WAY!!!!!!
Date: 11 Dec 92 17:53:17 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Dec11.175317.16940
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Dec10.174508.23450@radian.uucp> kathrynw%radian@natinst.com (Kathryn Whitworth) writes:
>In article <1992Dec9.202224.28478@u.washington.edu> tracer@carson.u.washington.edu (David P. Tracer) writes:
>>
>>May I point out only 1 minor problem with this course of action: CEDAR
>>CONTAINS COMPOUNDS THAT ARE TOXIC TO SNAKES AND MOST OTHER REPTILES!
>>
>
>Thanks, David.  Now:  do you know if CYPRESS mulch is a problem?  My herp
>store advised mulch for the bottom of the ig's cage, but did not specify
>what kind.
>
>Kathryn Roth Whitworth
>

I believe that Cypress mulch is ok.  
But the real question is: Do you really want to deal with cleaning a cage
that has cypress mulch substrate?  (Sounds like a lot of work to me)
But it certainly will make the cage look more like a "natural" setting.
-DT
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut)
Subject: Re: dead feedings
Followup-To: rec.pets.herp
Summary: Seeing you in action is a joke.
Keywords: This article printed on 100% recycled electrons
Organization: Rocking Pig Enterprises
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 17:28:55 GMT

In article <1992Dec10.205926.23095@athena.mit.edu>
remcat@athena.mit.edu (Rachel Emily "Naked Came I" Molenaar) writes:
>Um, could someone brief a rather ignorant new snake owner on the gory details of
>dead feedings? How does one do this?
>
>I have a four-foot-pr-so Ball Python (Madison) who has yet to eat (I bought her
>Oct. 20) but I am less worried than I was because of random postings regarding
>python eating habits. I just bought another feeder mouse and would like to use it
>instead of letting it go when I get sick of watching Madison ignore it. I'd heard
>of how food had become dangerous to other snakes, so I always watch to make sure
>the mice don't chew on Madison...
>
>Anyway, don't spare the details, please!!!
>

This info isn't in the FAQ list, is it?  If not, somebody should
definitely do a little write-up for it... there are at least a couple
of effective methods for dispatching prey of all sizes that should be
included.  Ok, I volunteer to compile it... if anybody wants to
contribute their favourite method send it off to me-- don't forget to
specify what size prey item you use this on.

/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
                       /               
/'''   Kyle Wohlmut    -  'Heute back ich, morgen brau ich, und       
c-OO                   /   uebermorgen hol ich mir der Koenigin ihr      
   \   Rocking Pig     -   Kind.  Ach, wie gut dass niemand weiss,
  -     Enterprises    /   dass ich kyle@csli.stanford.EDU heiss.'    
                       -                                              
-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-
From: jhaines@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Jason Haines)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: herp. BBS press release
Date: 12 Dec 92 06:10:00 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


                                   PRESS RELEASE

                                   December 1992 --For immediate release.

The Herpetology Online Computer Network   (Herp-Net)  invites all modem users 
to participate in its international communication system for those interested 
in the study, propogation, or conservation of reptiles or amphibians. Herp-Net 
was  created to facilitate the exchange of information and ideas among zoos, 
herpetologists, veterinarians, biologists, conservationists, and the
interested 
public.  Discussions include husbandry, field biology, medical  aspects, 
captive requirements, reproduction, etc. Herp-Net is available 24 hours/day
via 
ANY modem-equipped computer or terminal. The direct dial system has 6 incoming 
phone lines connected to 215-464-3562. A single high-speed node has been
installed on 215-698-1905 for 9600/14,400/38K+ speeds via V.42bis modems.

Access is open to all without  pre-registration or required fees. 

Herp-Net currently contains the following sections:
           
          >  A public message area that works like an  electronic 
          bulletin-board.  Questions  may  be  posted  for  other 
          callers  to see and discussions and informal  conversa-
          tions take place here. New topics are created daily and 
          range from breeding reptiles, to genetics, to UV light-
          ing,  to photography, to zoogeography, to  student  re-
          search requests, to specific captive requirements for a 
          specie, etc.
           
          >  A file archive area is available to  transfer  arti-
          cles, programs, data, book reviews, and even electronic 
          images to or from your computer. Thousands of pages  of 
          information are available.
           
          >  Several online databases for member's interests  and 
          regional societies  may be searched on-line [A herp-vet 
          list has also been suggested.]
           
          >  A free book search service for out-of-print to  rare 
          titles in zoology or Natural History (request may  also 
          be mailed in.)
           
          > Book publication announcements and reviews are  peri-
          odically  added as new titles are received.  All  books 
          received will be listed or reviewed.
           
          >  A calendar of international  meetings,  conferences, 
          and  other  events relating to  reptiles/amphibians  is 
          constantly being compiled and updated. This list may be 
          read online or downloaded to your printer.
 
The Herp-Net project is supported by private contributions and an all-
volunteer  staff. Specific questions may be directed to Mark F. Miller,
System  Administrator,  Herp-Net, P.O.Box 52261, Philadelphia, PA  19115-7261
FAX  messages are accepted on 215-464-3561 anytime.
From: stevep@wrq.com (Steve Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Iguana and Savannah together
Date: 15 Dec 92 19:42:19 GMT
Organization: Walker Richer & Quinn

I sure got a surprise at a Seattle pet store the other day. This store
has had an abused iguana in its care for a couple of months.  It has had
a broken tail, has some sort of cyst on its back, and suffered some
severe rostral abrasions that clearly became infected and swelled into
a large crusty growth. I'm told that it's an aggressive animal, and while
it's pretty ugly and scarred does appear to be in decent health. It has
been alone in its tank for a while, and I always check up on it when I'm
in the store. It was actually offered free to me, but I don't really
have room right now. I think it's going to go to the local herp society.

So anyhow, I strolled into the store to get some crickets and nearly
fell over when I saw this 2.5' iguana basking under its heat lamp and
atop a Savannah monitor! The monitor was slightly longer (and bulkier,
obviously) than the ig, and didn't seem perturbed in the least to have
the green critter along for the ride.

The guy working behind the counter said that he was equally surprised
when he came in and saw the situation, but I guess the feisty iguana
and docile monitor get along just fine. I'd never planned to try this
with my own ig and Savannah, but now I'm wondering! Any thoughts on
this out there? Anyone experimented with this combination, or with
any combination of large lizards of different species?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Internet: stevep@wrq.com  -  AOL: Spoole  -  INTEL 80x86: Just say NOP -
- "Nurse! Do let's pretend that I'm a hungry hyaena, and you're a bone!" -
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mikeh@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Michael Herman)
Subject: Re: About escapes...
Organization: Motorola Inc., Austin Tx.
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 22:23:11 GMT

THought I would ask for some advice..... \

My 18 inch albino cal kingsake excaped in my truck a 
few weeks ago.  It crawled under the dashboard...

I have not had time to take the dash completly off
its about half off now.   Looked with a flashlite and 
so forth.                        

This is in austin tx so its warm enough to keep alive
(I hope)

any ideas???   

already thought of using a wire cage with a mouse.
but that wont work as it is too cold for her to eat.

Dash is coming off this weekend, I suspect she
is in/near the heater.  I have no evidence that she has
stayed in there.  BUt there is plenty of room for her  
to hide and I drive everyday, should be warm enough.

BTW anyone in austin have experince taking dashboards
off nissan pickups????

please reply via mail         

I know this is real embarrasing and I gotta get her
out before my girlfriend notices my snake is gone
and asks where it is.   (no shes not a herp fan)

JC
From: carolyn@usna.navy.mil (Ms. Carolyn Mayr (CADIG STAFF))
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Buying my first Iguana
Keywords: baby, size, pet shop
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:53:57 GMT

Hello everyone,

I'm very close to buying my first pet iguana but have come across
some questions after visiting the pet shop (Thanks to Brad Dalton
for answering lots of questions I had).  

The pet store employee told me they do not recommend buying baby
iguanas because it is very hard to keep them alive and they also
require lots of nutritional and worming care.  The store recommends
selling iguanas when they are bigger/older but the store couldn't
tell how old they are (based on size).

The problem is that I want to "paper train" my iguana which is why I
want a baby (Iggy will have free run of the house when he is bigger
so I want to make sure my house will be clean).  

Questions:
1.  Do I risk buying a baby iguana and take my chances that a novice 
like me can keep it alive past the baby stage?

2.  Should I buy a larger older one (what age/size)?  Can you get a 
larger/older one that is "paper trained"?

3.  Or should I buy one that is between #1 and 2 above?  What size/age
is that?

4.  Should I buy a tame one (hand fed) or wild one.  Tame ones were
more expensive.

5.  What starter kit will I need?  (size of tank, hot rocks, food, etc?)

Thanks and happy holidays to you all.

				Carolyn

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Carolyn A. Mayr (Computer Programmer)       MaBell:   (410) 267-4413
Computer Aided Design/Interactive Graphics  INTERNET: carolyn@usna.navy.mil
590 Holloway Road, Rickover Hall, Stop 11G  UUCP:     ...!uunet!usna!carolyn
U.S. Naval Academy                          Autovon:  281-4413
Annapolis, MD  21402-5042                   FAX:      (410) 267-2591
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: instruct@tigger.jvnc.net (Instructional Systems)
Subject: more on iggy's
Originator: instruct@tigger.jvnc.net
Organization: JvNCnet
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:44:49 GMT

	OK, I for one don't mind a lot of mail about iguanas.  I'm an
Ig-man myself, and frankly I was getting a bit tired of tales about boas
who won't eat or crap, I mean what's with these finicky fellas anyway.

	OK2 - I'm going out on a limb here, so feel free to incinerate me
you lurking herpetologicidal maniacs: I think that you're definitely
better buying a young ig (<6 months, <8 "), but I think that the stuff
about hand-fed and paper-trained is a bunch of hooey.  Iguanas can be
paper-trained without too much hassle, but paying extra for these two
things sounds like a scam.  What sort of place is this?  Is it a pet shop
or a herp specialist?  I've shopped at some fairly upscale reptile joints
but haven't ever seen extra-expensive free-range igs.  Maybe I'm just
naive or wrong, but itr sounds fishy.  Oh yeah -- about fears about
non-green thumbs when it comes to raising ig's -- they have got to be
the easiest, most rewarding, most mellow, least finicky herp to raise.
You shouldn't worry too much about doing him or her in before adulthood,
they're very hardy & hearty.  I'm sure you'll do great.
From: pals@ipact.com
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Force-feeding info wanted
Date: 14 Dec 92 12:57:21 CDT
Organization: IPACT, Valparaiso IN

In article <19878@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu>, 
nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins) writes:
> 
>  Hi there, here's me back with more questions; this time, on
> force-feeding. The animal in question is a baby corn snake ...

I don't mean to contradict what has been said by the others replying
to this topic, but I have been force-feeding a baby corn snake whole 
pinkies successfully for a couple of months now.  I had the great advantage 
of first watching an experienced herper do it.  The main problem is the 
"firm but gentle" line you need to walk.

RULE #1.  Use as small a pinky as possible!  This can hardly be over 
emphasized.  Wet it first to lubricate it.

First, grasp the snake at the back of the head between thumb and
forefinger, keeping the neck as straight as possible.  Hold the snake
so that it is vertical (head on top, of course!).  Pry open
the snake's mouth with the snout of the pinky.  A twisting motion
will help here.  Then, insert the snout of the pinky into the
snake's throat.  I have found it easiest to insert the pinky on
it's side, with the legs pointed out towards your thumb.  That way,
the parts that are likely to hang out the snake's mouth are in the
easiest place for you to stuff them in.

Now, using whatever you have selected for a ramrod (I use the blunt end of
a small diameter nail), "firmly but gently" push the pinky into the snake's
throat.  Alternate sides, but do it quickly so that you can keep pressure
on the pinky nearly constantly. The snake will resist and try to
regurgitate.  Don't be put off - keep at it.  One tricky part of this is
that you are grasping the snake firmly where you want the pinky to pass
through.  Try to keep your grip off the throat area.  Once the head passes
completely into the throat, the rest seems to go in somewhat easier.  When
the snake is able to close it's mouth again, it should begin pushing the
pinky towards it's stomach.

One way to ease into this is to force feed the snake a 1/2" to 3/4" 
section of an adult mouse tail.  This will go much more easily than a
pinky and give the feeder some experience as well.

-- 
Randy Pals                |pals@ipact.com
IPACT, Inc.               |
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: instruct@tigger.jvnc.net (Instructional Systems)
Subject: sick iguanas
Originator: instruct@tigger.jvnc.net
Keywords: iguana, illness
Organization: JvNCnet
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 22:43:59 GMT

	I could hazard some guesses about those white cage mites.  There are
a lot of products in specialty pet stores for keeping snakes mite-free,
but I've never heard of them affecting an iguana (could be a sign of some
thing else, like a necrotic area or infection).  I have found that excellent,
excellent advice is available on herpnet (# often posted here, E-mail me if you
need it).  It really behooves anyone with a herp to avail themselves of this
fantastic resource.  I don't know enough to prescribe a course of action for our
last two callers, but a call to herpnet may save you an expensive trip to the
vet.

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: gerard@progress.COM (Gerard Bras)
Subject: Re: Heating strip
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 22:21:28 GMT

seedman@IASTATE.EDU (Varanus Komodensis) writes:

>	The product Wayne is talking about, as far a I can tell, is sold 
>by many names.  Bob Clark sells it as "Herp Heat", and recommends using it
>with his "micro-climate" thermostats.  I have one friend who uses it, and 
>he has experience no problems.  I posted this to make sure no one confuses
>Wayne's "heat tape" with the previously, and still somewhere available 
>"Heat Tape" used by plumbers to keep pipes from freezing and herp onwers to 
>keep their animals warm.
>					

If you go to a place that sells flooring supplies you can get it for a couple
of dollars a foot.  Ask for "floor warming tape".  Combined with a dimmer
it is a cheap, safe, and effective herp heater.

Then again, snakes are shaped roughly like pipes.  Anything designed
for plumbing application might work great.  :-)

cheers,
gerard

>
From: zenpk@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (stephen kunc)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: force feeding
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 12:46:51 -05
Distribution: world
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec

Whoever was concerned about force-feeding, if it *does* become a 
necessity, my personal experience has been that pinkies go down a lot 
easier if you douse 'em in vegetable oil first. The one time I did 
resort to this, it didn't cause a problem at all for me or for the 
snake (boiga dendrophilia) and he began eating again by himself in the 
next few days.
 
This isn't meant to be a support for force-feeding, since it should 
almost never be done, but if it does, it doesn't have to be a gruesome 
experience.


--
stephen kunc, zenpk@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp