HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Date: 13 Jan 93 02:16:18 GMT
	<7920@dove.nist.gov>
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43


   In article <2430012@hpgrla.gr.hp.com> peterd@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Peter Davidoff) writes:
   >
   >
   >I've been following this thread with interest... I intend to
   >purchase a 6" jointer soon.  I have considered the Griz, and
   >
   >I'm not sure about the Ryobi... seems good, but... but I don't know...


Much has been made about the Ryobi's high speed and blade design resulting
in a wonderful surface, with little chance of tearout.

That's all wonderful, but frankly, I don't have much of a problem with tearout
with my Jet, either.  I face-plane just about every board I use, and joint
the edges of them most of the time as well.  I take small amounts of wood
off at each pass, pay attention to the feed rate and grain pattern, and I
just don't have all that much trouble -- and I use some fairly wierd-grained
woods often.  Of course, if it's really true that the Ryobi completely
eliminates the problem, that would be a rather nice selling point.

What I *do* hate, though, is short beds.  I often find myself wishing
for a longer bed than the 6" Jet has, and have been comtemplating an
8" model, mostly for the extra bed length, but also to increase my
face-planing capacity (I'm really hooked on that operation).

It seems that the Ryobi has an even shorter bed than the Jet does, and I'd
be reluctant to purchase one unless someone could convince me that it is
possible to add extension wings that are as accurate as the primary tables.
It seems difficult for me to believe that this is the case, so I'd be
tempted to steer away from the Ryobi for that reason.  What's the real
story?

Tony
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jrdailey@cbnewse.cb.att.com (j.rex.dailey)
Subject: Re: drying green wood
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:42:10 GMT

From article <TOML.93Jan5092046@nightowl.xrxedds.UUCP>, by toml@xrxedds.UUCP (Tom Love):
> i have access through a local sawmill to ungodly cheap roughsawn oak,
> cherry, walnut, and occassionally other hardwoods.  it is, of course,
> totally green. 
> 
> STUFF DELETED
> 
> i am really interested in air drying.  i have a barn with loft which i
> could happily dedicate to wood storage/drying.  it gets pretty warm up
> there in the summer - perhaps 125 deg F?  properly stacked and
> stickered, what would my odds be of getting a usable product?  how
> long would it take to dry properly?  should i invest in one of those
> moisture meters?
> 
> i guess i'm interested in (a) personal experience, (b) references to
> books or articles, and (c) alternative approaches (commercial kiln?
> haven't investigated).  especially item (b).
> 
> this seems like a general enough topic for discussion - anyone have
> any thoughts?  thanks in advance.  (and thanks to all for knowledge
> i've gleaned from this group over the years - happy new year!).
> 
> Tom Love

Tom,

I would suggest picking up the FWW "Wood and How To Dry It" book.
It is an older book that is a collection of FWW articles.  Also, 
Bruce Hoadly's book - "Understanding Wood".  Although after you buy 
these books and read up on the subject, something they don't come 
right out and say is that you will end up buying a moisture meter, 
a good 6" to 8" jointer and a 10" to 13" planer to use on all that 
cheap green wood.

Not all that is bad though.  A few friends and I go around the Chicago
suburbs looking for downed trees.  We take them to a small sawmill and
have them sawn.  Ends up costing much less than store bought, although 
you do have to wait quite a while for it to dry.  Have currently quite 
a few hundred board feet each of cherry, walnut, brown ash, and white 
oak sitting around air drying.  And it is a great feeling going out the 
shed and looking in on all that lumber from time to time.

Have just received from Santa the Mini Lignomat moisture meter and have
a 6" old Rockwell jointer and the older 13" Delta planer (the one with
bed rollers).  I enjoy very much the time it takes to learn the skill
involved with milling my own lumber from rough stock.

Rex Dailey
jrdailey @ cbnewse.cb.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: marks@halcyon.com (Peter Marks)
Subject: Bowl-turning lathe?
Reply-To: marks@halcyon.com
Organization: NCR Seattle Technology Center
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 00:34:46 GMT

I have twice seen lathes seemingly specialized purely for bowl-turning.
They each consisted of a heavy motor-housing pedestal, faceplate and tool
rest, but no bed; as a result they required about the floor space of a
drill press.

At the time I saw them (5-10 years ago) I wasn't interested in bowl
turning, and so didn't note their sources.  Now that I am interested, I
can't find anyone I know who recalls the details.  None of my catalogs
mention anything like them.  Do any of you know of such a beast, and where
I can obtain one?

Thanks,

P-)

-- 
     +----- Peter Marks, NCR Seattle Technology Center -----+
     | 15307 NE 202nd Street, Woodinville, Washington 98072 |
     |       voice:(206)489-0501    fax:(206)489-0601       |
     +------------------ marks@halcyon.com -----------------+
From: mattc@ADS.COM (Matt Coblentz)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Norm's New Season
Date: 12 Jan 93 20:37:47 GMT
Organization: Advanced Decision Systems, Mtn. View, CA (415)960-7300

In article <1993Jan11.215019.18890@microsoft.com> stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:
>In article <1993Jan8.215346.10378@mlb.semi.harris.com>, luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni) writes:
>> In article <1993Jan8.182410.5082@afit.af.mil> fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
>> >
>> >This reminds me of something.  I saw that AMT has a squiblet flurbigator
  ******  stuff deleted *******
>
>
>I've been busy converting my European flurbigator to three phase power.
>I've pretty much got it working now, it was just a matter of determining
>the right capacitance value.  Lucky thing too, because I've been wanting
>to do some fine woodworking for years now and the only tool I have is a
>Boy Scout pocketknife.  It took me three years just to plane and joint 
>the tree down to the proper 2x4 dimension (of course, not all this time
>was wasted -- alot of that the tree was drying out properly.)
>
  ******  more stuff deleted *******
>




 
I seem to recall that a lot of European equipment (and that probably includes
flurbigators) run on 50 Hz current.  You have to account for that when 
determining capacitances on your 3-phase conversion or you will have a nice
blivot maker that is truly a safety hazard.  

Sorry, I couldn't resist.  I know that this is woodworking, not electrical.
It seemed to fit all the side discussions nicely.  (I like the safety 
discussions).


.
--
Matthew Coblentz                I admit it - I use my kids as an 
  Booz, Allen & Hamilton          excuse to watch cartoons and   
  1500 Plymouth Street               to go to Disney movies 
  Mountain View, CA   94043      **** Standard disclaimer ****
From: warren@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (warren.a.montgomery)
Subject: Re: WARNING (response to...)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:28:56 GMT
Summary: Yes, Hand tools are dangerous too

I second the view that hand tools (or even unplugged power tools)
also need to be treated with respect.  I've never been injured
with a power tool but have learned a lot of lessons from hand
tools including these Gems:

While cutting up some scrap wood (tree branches) with a bow saw,
holding the piece with my left hand, the saw snagged, bounced out
of the kerf and landed on the back of my left hand; result: 4
stiches and a nasty scar.

Lesson:  Keep your hands (and feet) well clear of anyplace your
tool could slip or bounce.  Don't use your hand as a clamp.

While splitting wood and using an old hammer to pry the pieces a
part, the hammer got stuck, and when I hit it with my sledge
hammer to knock it loose, a piece flew off;  result: I still have
a chip off that hammer in my leg, at the time the doctor didn't
believe anything could be in there, but it showed up on an X ray
10 years later.

Lessons:  Don't abuse your tools.  Assume any steel object could
splinter when struck.  Wear Eye protection while hammering (I
wasn't and got lucky).

Numerous minor cuts with chisels and screwdrivers.  Lessons: Avoid
cheap slotted screws, they are difficult to work with and applying
force just sets up dangerous situations.  Treat a chisel with the
respect you would a razor blade.

-- 

	Warren Montgomery
	att!iexist!warren
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sfk@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (Steve Katz)
Subject: Recommendation:  Bandsaw and Air Compressor
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:39:16 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard NARC Atlanta
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5


I am considering the purchase of two new tools:  a bandsaw and an air
compressor.  I would appreciate your opinions and reasoning on what to
purchase.

The bandsaw will be used for small to medium projects (small furniture, etc).
In particular, I would like to be able to re-saw wood for drawer sides,
and also would like to cut larger pieces, etc. than I can w/my current
Craftsman benchtop band saw (the blade wanders, and the motor is not
strong enough).  I would like to keep the price under $500.  What brands,
sizes, features, etc. do you like?

The AIR compressor will initially be used for inflating things such as 
bike and car tires, etc.  However, when finances allow, I would like to 
get a good quality finish nailer, stapler, sander, and most importantly,
sprayer.  What tools are the most demanding in terms of pressure and 
volume?  What size motor do I need (110/220VAC) - 3HP, 5HP?  How large
should the tank be?  What brands are good?

Thanks in advance for your help.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Auto-transformer
Date: 05 Jan 93 20:19:18 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: universal auto-transformer


I recently came across an old auto-transformer in my pile of strange
left-overs.  I started wondering if I could use it as a variable speed
control on tools with universal motors (like my drill, router, sabre saw,
etc.)

This thing accepts 120V current and outputs anywhere from 0 - 120 V
current.  If I use it to control a universal motor, will it hurt the
motor?  Will it also work to control inductance motors?


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lsimard@bnr.ca (Louis Simard)
Subject: Central Vacuum for the Workshop?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 14:53:34 GMT

I have just purchase a generation III Hoover Central Vacuum system for my house.
Both salemen that I have talked to recommend using the central vacuum in my
small woodworking shop.  It is just a weekend hobby for me but with the table saw and
a planer and a belt sander I generate alot of wood dust in the basement.

Anybody has suggestions on how to setup the pipes?  The power unit has a 2" inlet
with 2" pipes to the house outlets.  Should I use 4" pipe for the workshop with a
4" to 2" adaptor near the power unit? Or should the 4" to 2" adaptors be put closer
to the tools

Will this really pickup most of the saw dust generated by a planer or table saw or
I am just dreaming?  Should I just way to get  a dust collector when some money comes in?

In case the specifications of central vacuum matters here they are
          maximum amps:       13.5
          maximum C.F.M.:     101
          sealed suction:        137"
          maximum air power: 484
          dirt capacity:           5.0 gallons

Any feedback is welcomed.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 5 Jan 1993 14:24:28 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: sanding/cabinets
              31 Dec 1992 15:39:01 -0600 from <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>

On Thu, 31 Dec 1992 15:39:01 -0600 Wile E. Coyote said:
>Greetings Eric!
>
>(I've edited your message since I'm only replying to part of it)
>
>Ryobi now markets a small triangular-head sander for getting into tight
>places.  It appears to be similar to the Fein oscillating sander, but I bet
>it's quite a bit cheaper.  I don't have information about pricing, etc., but
 I
>recently saw an ad in Family Handyman magazine, of all places.  If you like,
 I
>can get you the 800 number for Ryobi to find a dealer in your area..
>
I saw this sander in the December Woodworkers Supply catalog for $50.00, Home
Depot also has it..

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: faunt@netcom.Netcom.COM (Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604)
Subject: dust-collecting sander
Organization: at home, in Oakland
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:23:57 GMT

Does anyone have opinions on dust-collecting sanders?  I'm considering
getting some sort of orbital sander with some way of attaching it to
the shop vac to minimize the mess.

thanx, doug <faunt@netcom.com>

(I hope this isn't in the FAQ.  I couldn't locate it.)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com (ANIMAL)
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Summary: 
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 18:57:13 GMT
Reply-To: animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics Corporation
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

Sorry for the blank post, I know I sent it correctly. Oh well..

I have an AMT 6" jointer that I am happy with. It has a center
mount fence and fairly long beds.  I have two minor gripes: 
1. The included blades did not last long. (Although I was 
joining rock maple...)
2. There is no dust pickup connection. The dust comes out a 
chute onto the floor.
It runs about $390 + $65 Motor - $50 Rebate. I've had it
about two years and have had no problems with it.  It looks like
several imports but comes with a 10 year parts warranty.
---
________________________________________________________
000 000
(_) (_)    animal@rtp-nc.mentorg.com
________________________________________________________
                     ____  
     ^      |\   || |_  _| |\    /|      ^      ||
    /^\     | \  ||   ||   | \  / |     /^\     ||
   // \\    ||\\ ||   ||   ||\\//||    // \\    ||
  //___\\   || \\||   ||   || \/ ||   //___\\   ||
 //_____\\  ||  \ |  _||_  ||    ||  //_____\\  ||_____
//       \\ ||   \| |____| ||    || //       \\ |______|
________________________________________________________

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Vmsmail-To: SMTP%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 4 Jan 1993 09:19:01 -0700
From:         BOULAN@TECHNET.NM.ORG
Subject:      Re: Biscuit Adapter for Sear's Routers

Yes as a matter of fact I have the adapter and have used it many times. For
occasional use it is adequate. The design requires more time for set up and
the actual cut because the blade is smaller that a dedicated bicsuit joiner,
but the results are generally the same. I have used it for joining boards
to make a table top and for 45 degree angle joining. As I said, it is adequate
but I do plan on buying a biscuit joined this year.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 4 Jan 1993 11:08:27 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Biscuit Adapter for Sear's Routers

Greetings!

>Has anyone tried the adapter that Sear's sells for their routers that turns
>it into a biscuit joiner? It's about $40, so I don't have much faith in it.
>
>Does it work for occasional home use or is this just another one of those
>'make something else from something you have that won't work anywhere near
>as good had you bought what you were trying to make in the first place' items?
>
>Thanks for any info anyone has.

I've never used one, but I've looked at it.  It looks like it'd be impossible
to do biscuit joints on mitered edges with the Sears gizmo, so if you do those
kinds of joints a lot, it probably isn't for you.  If it works, it's probably
fairly accurate.  The height adjustment is probably more accurate than on some
biscuit joiners because the router base will always be dead parallel to the
cutter.  The Porter Cable joiner I use drives me nuts sometimes because it's
easy to set the fence/guide thingy such that it's not exactly parallel to the
cutterhead.  This in turn results in a cut that's not parallel to the board
edges, and if you're off by more than about 1/32", remember that your cut on
the opposite board will be off by the same amount, but sloping in the other
direction, essentially doubling your error...but I digress!

At any rate, Sears is pretty good about returns if you don't like something.
Give it a try, and tell us what happens!

It seems like I've also seen biscuiting attachments for hand-held grinders,
but I don't remember where.  Anyone have any experience with these?

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Subject: Changes to Frequently Requested rec.woodworking addresses
Frequency: monthly
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:17:59 GMT
Expires: 17 Feb 1993 17:13:22 GMT

257a258,267
> McFeeley's Square Drive Screws		(800) 443-7937
> 712 12th Street				(804) 847-7136 - FAX
> P.O. Box 3
> Lynchburg VA 24505-0003
> 	Square drive screws in a huge number of styles and materials;
> 	screw-related tools; general woodworking stuff like finishes and
> 	clamps.  The square-drive screws are great and well-priced, the
> 	other stuff is about 10% higher than the cheapest I've seen.
> 	 Shipped via UPS the same day for my one order (so far).
> 
297a308,313
> RBI					(800) 487-2623
> P.O. Box 369
> 1801 Vine St.
> Harrisonville, MO 64701
> 	RBI Hawk saws
> 
324a341,345
> Seyco					(214) 278-3353
> P.O. Box 472749
> Garland, TX 75047
> 	Excalibur saws
> 
466a488,497
> 
> "Woodwork: A Magazine For All Woodworkers"
> Circulation Dept.
> P.O. Box 1529
> Ross, CA 94957
> 	Another general-interest woodworking magazine, with color and
> 	slick paper.  Appears to be aimed at people who aspire to being
> 	good enough to design and construct Fine Woodworking-quality
> 	projects, but aren't there yet.
> 
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: faunt@netcom.Netcom.COM (Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604)
Subject: Re: dust-collecting sander
Organization: at home, in Oakland
Distribution: rec
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 22:14:20 GMT

In article <FAUNT.93Jan5132357@netcom.Netcom.COM> faunt@netcom.Netcom.COM (Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604) writes:
   Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 21:23:57 GMT

   Does anyone have opinions on dust-collecting sanders?  I'm considering
   getting some sort of orbital sander with some way of attaching it to
   the shop vac to minimize the mess.

   thanx, doug <faunt@netcom.com>

   (I hope this isn't in the FAQ.  I couldn't locate it.)
It was in the FAQ, that I found, there was a pointer to some files
about sanders, which I read, and then ordered a 5in VS ROS
Cable-Porter sander from Trendlines, which comes with the dust
collection system at no charge.
This looks like pretty much exactly what I was after.  Thanks for the
help.

doug
From: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Need help locating a burr
Date: 8 Jan 1993 13:21:15 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


A local (Tennessee) spoon/bowl maker has been unable to locate a
replacement for a burr she uses to rough out spoon hollows.  It's roughly
the size and shape of the first section a large man's thumb (say 5/8 or 3/4
by an inch) with a 1/4 or 3/8 shaft.  It's about as coarse as the rough
side of the common 4-in-one hand rasps.

This business is her bread-and-butter--the burr is a real necessity.  If
you have any information that would help her locate a supply of them,
please post it here or send it to me at cf603@cleveland.freenet.edu and
I'll pass it on to her.

It's important enough to her that she'd probably pay to have one
custom-built if they're not commercially available.

Thanks.
-- 
Dave Sill
Play: cf603@cleveland.freenet.edu
Work: de5@ornl.gov
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Ryobi & Fein Detail Sanders
Date: 4 Jan 93 17:41:08 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1993Jan2.010255.1@acad2.alaska.edu>, asket@acad2.alaska.edu writes:
> 
> Happy New Year!  I'm about to buy the new Ryobi detail sander (triangular      
> head).  Eagle hardware sells it for $48.  Fein also makes a detail sander
> at about $240.  Is the quality difference really worth that much?  
>   

I just bought the Fein but haven't used it yet.  It is a very robust
bit of machinery and is obviously designed for professional cabinet shop
use as they note in their ads.  For me, it was worth it since I have
enough trouble getting the results I want due to my own skill and the
idiosyncrasies of wood.  I don't need additional problems from my tools,
and the Fein looks and feels solid.

G.
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: sealer (?) for wooden double-hung windows
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:31:53 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.


Try using DAP water-repelling wood preservative.  This product is made to treat bare wood (wood that has not been pressure-treated) for exterior use and is the same stuff that many wood window manufacturers use to treat their new units. (Says so right on the can!!)  It works great in that it seals the wood but also makes paint stick better.  I treated the whole stripped sash before re-installing and then painted them after installation.  DO NOT paint any areas where the sash contacts the window frame.  The



 wood preservative seems to act as a lubricant to boot!!
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Hardness of wood
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 06:00:20 GMT

As a beginner, I have some questions about hardness of wood
(and by hardness I mainly mean ease of sawing with a scroll saw).

How do poplar, pine, fir, "white wood," and red oak compare?
I figure red oak is the hardest and fir may be the softest, but
how do the others rank?

(What species is "white wood," anyhow?)

Right now I'm doing a good bit of miniature (toy-sized) woodworking
with Weyerhaeuser clear poplar, and am wondering if a different kind
of wood would be easier to work with.  The main alternative is pine.

How does ordinary (fir?) plywood compare with these?

Am I right in thinking pine gets a lot harder if seasoned for 15
years in a hot attic under stress?  I have some lumber that used to
be structural members of my house, and it's very hard.  Would newer
pine be significantly easier to work?

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking