HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>
>This weekend I had the pleasure of watching Roy Underhill (the woodwrights
>shop) doing a little bit of turning on Walnut.  The guy is a darned fine
>turner!   He handled the skew like he knew what he was doing.  He used
>the bevel to burnish the wood.  He used the gouges very well too.
>
>(excuse me for a second...  [sounds of clothing being put on]  Ahh, now that
>I have asbestos undies on,  let me proceed and defame a religious character)
>
>This was in distinct contrast to watching Norm Abhrams hacking at a lathe 
>on The New Yankee Powertool Advertising Show a few months ago.  Norm
>used scraping cuts, and basically abused the wood into shape.   He really
>didn't know what he was doing.  
>
>For those of you who want to learn how to turn,  buy the Richard Raffin tape
>from FWW, or watch Underhill.  But for heavens sake, don't learn from Norm.
>----------

   Hey, I had the same impression.  I have been watching Roy and Norm 
   since they have been on, off and on.  

   Norm is not the craftsman that Roy is, but he gets things done.  Nice
   plans, sometimes, and good tips on construction.   But when it comes to
   fine woodworking, Roy is your man.  

   I also found your remark about the New Yankee Powertool Advertising
   Show funny, although I noticed in the last episode that the brand 
   names have been covered by electricians tape on some of his tools.

   It reminds me of some of the "Helpful Shop Tips" in Fine Woodworking
   magazine.  Some of them are good tips, some of them are good for a 
   laugh.

   Thank God there is a range of experience and plenty of dumb advice 
   around.  It gives us room to become good craftsman, and makes us 
   appreciate people who really know what they are doing (like Roy)
   all the more.

   The only complaint I have about Roy is that the show is usually in
   such a big hurry.   When he talks about making planes, I wish he would
   linger over the material a little more and give more detail.   Oh well,
   you have to tape those shows and watch them over and over to get all
   the information he presents.
From: HF.RLW@forsythe.stanford.edu (Lee Wood, 3-6284)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Request for a FAQ
Date: 16 Nov 92 22:24:04 GMT
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu

Friends,

I'm a new reader to rec.woodworking and looking forward to setting up a
modest shop and doing some winter projects.

I'm full of questions for all you old pros, but before I broadcast them to the
entire world, perhaps there is a FAQ I should read first.

Does this newsgroup have a monitor who can send me a FAQ?  I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,

Lee
From: tlp00@climb.as (Tibor Polgar)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Kiddie Chest of Drawers
Date: 19 Nov 92 00:59:14 GMT
Reply-To: tlp00@ras.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation

This mail bounced so i'm posting it here since this where it started  anyway.....
> From @juts.ccc.amdahl.com,@juts.ccc.amdahl.com,@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com:neves@aristotle.ils.nwu.edu Wed Nov 18 13:24:11 1992
 
> I tried sending you email a couple of weeks ago but whatever posting
> software you are using puts the following in the reply field which
> means that no one can reply to you.
> "tlp00@climb.as"

workstations are still a bit of a novelty in our area so it takes a while to
get these things organized.

> 
> The "organization" field in your message says that you work for Sun
> Microsystems.  You might want to check the contents of the
> "/etc/organization" file on your machine.
> 

Yeh, have to look at this, BTW we don't have a /etc/organization file
> Anyway, I remember responding about a chest for a preschooler.  If you
> get any information please forward to me as I have the same problem.
> 
> I haven't found any chest plans that I like so I will copy my wife's
> chest.  Shaker plans I've seen don't have easy to open drawers.  For
>ease of opening I'm going with a center glide for the drawers made of
> maple and available at the local woodworkers store.  I think they run
> 4-5 dollars apiece (you could also make your own).  I think this means
> that the drawers can't be flush (which is something that you wanted).
> You can put a (plastic) stop in the back of the drawers to prevent
> them from being pulled out by a preschooler.
> 

As for the real important stuff, i ended up with standard flush mount on 
wooden side glides.   This was my first "all wood" drawer and boy do i have
a lot to improve on.   Any slop or out of square makes the drawer bind or 
stick.  Looks nice tho.   For the front door stop i used FWW idea of cutting
a notch in the drawer back and mount a wooden block on the top rail which can be 
privoted to let the drawer out.   The only suggestion i got was wiring the drawers
together so as one got pulled out the others would go in.   Great idea for
safety and extension stop.   

Let me know how your project works out.   I really love the accuglide botton
mount sliders (yeh "cheap kitchen" construction) but at $6 a pair, easy slide 
and good stop, i love em.   They can be used on flush mount, just make the 
box smaller, which is the big disadvantage, i hate loosing that 1 inch for side 
clearance.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Tibor L. Polgar    |  (408) 746-8649     | tlp00@climb.ras.amdahl.com
| Amdahl Corporation
| 1250 East Arques Avenue (M/S 281)
| P.O. Box 3470
| Sunnyvale, CA 94088-3470
|
| The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not in any way
| shape or form reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Electric drills
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 03:04:04 GMT
Summary: DeWalt = Black & Decker, despite salesman's pitch

In article <1992Nov17.210929.6854@osf.org>,
drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand) writes:

 > ....  As an aside, the salesman at HD insisted that
 > DeWalt is not B&D professional warmed over....

I don't believe that salesman based on my observations of the
tools, the DeWalt & B&D catalogs I have, and what has already been
published in the woodworking press.

BTW, there's a new DeWalt biscuit joiner out and it got a
good review in the Dec 1992 WOOD magazine.   To complicate
matters, WOOD's tool reviews often contradict my own
experience  :-)
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Upstate NY Sawmilling?
Date: 18 Nov 92 02:06:40 GMT
Organization: nope

In article <1992Nov17.140836.26797@mlb.semi.harris.com> luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni) writes:
>Problem is most people have never even heard of gluts and froes and 
>most of the other 200 year old tools that Roy uses.  And go to your 
>local hardware store and try and find some. Ha.

Depends on what you mean by local. <25 miles?  I'd be surprised
if I couldn't find froes, slicks, peaveys and such in stock by
visiting less than half a dozen hardware stores.  Even odds says
I can find one <2 miles.


>  Roy and his
>techniques are nice history but I think that the progress that
>we have made since 1692 should not be forgotten.  Just because
>its old doesn't mean its better.

Doesn't mean it's worse, either.

>   I would suggest that Chris 
>check with the local lumber yards and cabinet shops.  Surely 
>one of them can do it or know somewhere that will.  

I suspect that most of the mills within convenient access to
Chris' wood either won't take it because it's too short, or the
entire job isn't big enough, or Chris isn't willing to post bond
against blade breakage due to foreign objects, or they just
aren't even willing to consider it.

So that leaves finding a friend, net. or otherwise, who has a
portable sawmill, or buying or renting a sawmill, or a chainsaw
jig, or splitting it a la Roy and Abe.  But I suspect Chris
want's it done before President's Day  8-)

All MO, of course.  Apologies to Chris for putting words in his
mouth.  And check out some recent issues of WoodShop News,
particularly the classified sections.




-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 02:40:39 GMT
Subject: Re: CAD and project design
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

WHERRYD@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu writes:
>
>I recently acquired my dream home computer system and I'm interested
>in drawing up some of my wood project plans with a CAD system.  But
>what to use?  GenericCAD? AutoCAD? EasyCAD? TurboCAD? DesignCAD? And
>the list goes on!  My minimum requirement is that the system check
>dimensions for me, that is, a total dimension is equal to the sum of
>its component dimensions on the drawing.  But I would rejoice in a
>system that would build exploded isometric views from three elevation
>views (if that's possible).  I imagine AutoCAD is the most flexible, but
>it also carries a steep learning curve that I'd like to avoid unless
>it's absolutely necessary.
> 
>I was intrigued to find a list of woodworkers communicating digitally.
>Seems like a natural place to find some folks who use CAD as well.
>----------

   I use autocad.  The ramp up really isn't all that great to get very
   good utility.   I designed my kitchen cabinets by building the 
   pieces on autocad and then putting them together on autocad.  

   Then I built them for real, and yup, it all worked.   It was also 
   quite easy to copy the pieces over to a drawing of a 4X8 sheet of
   plywood and have nice cutting diagrams.   Combined with laser
   printer, it is the best.

   Unfortunately, the price tag is steep, and over $5000.   I use the
   one at work because I can't afford one for home.
From: weissborn@JAS.DALLAS.SDS.SLB.COM
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Finish problem
Date: 19 Nov 92 14:22:06 GMT
Reply-To: weissborn@dfwdsr.sinet.slb.com
Organization: Schlumberger Data Services - Dallas

In article <1992Nov18.213052.23095@inel.gov>, crayfe2@INEL.GOV (John Metzner) writes:
>
>	My wife and I are refinishing some ladder back chairs to match
>a tile top table I'm building.  She just called and said that she had a 
>problem with the first chair when she tried sanding it down for the final
>coat of Watco Teak Oil.  She put the first two coats on yesterday as per
>the instructions on the can without problem, then today when she sanded,
>the majority of the oil came off in "gummy, waxy globs" (her techical 
>term :^)).   The chairs originally had a dark walnut stain with a really

Sounds like the Watco may not have been completely dry.  I would wait a few
days and try again.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Bill Weissborn                              
Schlumberger Well Services
Data Services Region -- System Support Staff Engineer
4100 Spring Valley Rd. Suite 600            weissborn%dfwvx1@hub.sinet.slb.com
Dallas, Tx.   75244                 or try: weissborn%ntchcs@hub.sinet.slb.com
(214) 980-7924                      or    : dfwdsr::weissborn

"I got to play baseball...I got a chance to hit..."   Ted Williams
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: problem with planer
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 18:14:08 GMT

Greg Anderson writes
> In article <1992Nov11.215634.5540@desire.wright.edu> 
> fichtenbaum@desire.wright.edu writes:
> >I have a 12" Delta portable planer.  I was planing some stock when
> >I noticed that one edge was thinner than the other.  I have reset
> >the knives but am still having a problem.  
> 
> I too have recently purchased this planer and I also have seen this problem.
> Actually, what I see is "sniping" on both ends of the work (ie,
> both ends get planed a bit thinner than the middle). 

This is different that what the original poster noticed. He was talking 
about the left edge of the board being thinner than the right, not the
leading or trailing edge being thinner than the middle.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: castro@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Gonzalo Castro)
Subject: indoor molding
Reply-To: castro@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Gonzalo Castro)
Organization: Interleaf, Inc.
Distribution: ne
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 22:57:50 GMT

I am in the homestretch of refinishing my living room 
and face the task of re-installing the molding around the
windows, doorways, floorboards, and ceiling perimeter.
I saved the old molding of which 75% is re-usable.
The remaining 25% is mostly damaged window molding
which has splintered heavily from careless mounting of
curtain rods over the years. I thought about making these
but soon realized (became frustrated with) the limits of
my router skills.

I need advice on Boston area (eastern MA, southern NH)
shops that could reproduce such moldings or if anyone
knows of a "home demolition salvage yard" where I might
find rescued moldings.

I realize having moldings reproduced would be expensive.
If anyone has succesfully reproduced their own and
could tell me how they did it then maybe I could give
it another try.

Replies to castro@ileaf.com and I'll send summaries to
anyone who requests one.

And I thought this would be the easy part...

Gonzalo Castro
castro@ileaf.com
 

From: gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 18:47:28 GMT
Subject: Re: Hand tool sources?
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke/10240000) writes:

>We have lots of information in the faq(s) about power tools, but little on
>hand tool sources.  Where can I pick up a good jointer plane?  I've borrowed
>an old Bailey #7, but have to give it back sometime.
>
>What are the good names in current metal planes?  Stanley was always so-so,
>and I don't know of any other current brands except Record from Garrett-Wade.
>Although GW is quite expensive, they usually have good stuff.  How much work
>will I have to do to get a new Record plane into operating condition?  (i.e.
>is the sole flat?)
>----------

      You can probably pick up a Bailey #7 at a local flea market.  I have
      seen several of them here in the Bay area at EVERY fleam market I 
      have been to.   $25.00 is the usual price for a #6 or #7 in reasonable
      condition.


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 19 Nov 1992 14:11:00 CST
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      question about hide glue

I use hide glue with music instrument repair work.  I like it...it's real
accepting of a wide range of use, cleanup and re use, but incredibly good at
what it does.  You can re use it, but you need to pay some attention to how
you store it in between.  It will support a fine growth of mold and go bad if
stored in too warm of temperature.  I just keep mine in a glass jar with a lid
on it in the refrigerator. I set the jar in water and heat it on a hot plate to
use it (without the lid on, of course). I have to add a little water to it as
it cooks down over time and gets too thick. I add new glue and water
whenever the pot gets low.  It may lose some strength over time, according to
what I read, but I've never seen any sign of it in my projects.

As I look back over this, I should say that I don't mean "re-use", I mean
"re-heat".  I should also point out that I use dry glue to which I add water.
I've never used any of the ready-to-use hide glue that's sold.  By the way, the
stuff I use is pretty cheap.  Let me know if you need a source.

--Charlie Griffin      cgriffin@ksuvm.ksu.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 16 Nov 1992 11:05:30 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Lumber storage rack
              14 Nov 1992 16:45:10 -0600 from <rdc@WORLD.STD.COM>

On Sat, 14 Nov 1992 16:45:10 -0600 Ralph D Clifford said:
>     I have decided that the time has come to build something to store lumber
>on.  Since I don't currently store my lumber flat, too many pieces end up
>warped.  I would be interested in any solutions to this problem you'all have
>used.
>
>     I have approx. a 4' by 12' spot in my basement to store the wood.  The
>basement is dry for a basement -- I've never had any water problems, even in
>wood in contact with the basement floor.
>
>     My initial idea is to build platforms out of 2x4 covered with 3/4" ply.
>I would want the front edge of the platform open, however, so I'm not sure
>2x4s would be sufficient.  What size lumber should be used to span a distance
>of approximately 12 feet?  Additionally, are 2x4 legs sufficient, or should I
>use larger wood?
>
>     If you don't have ideas directly related to my project, does anybody
 have
>a table indicating how much weight various sizes of lumber can support?
>
>     Thanks in advance.
>
 I built the following out of some 2x4's I salvaged out of someone's garbage:


          |         |
          |         |             I made 3 of these for the upright portion
    -----------------------       of the wood rack.
          |         |
          |         |
    -----------------------
          |         |
          |         |
    -----------------------


I used 12' 2x4's as the horizontal pieces to connect the these guys together
(glued and screwed, no fancy joinery).  So, there is an upright at each end
of the 12' 2x4's and one in the middle.  This gives you 9 long "compartment"
to store different species and different width's of wood.  Mine is a little
over waist height but going higher shouldn't be a problem, just make sure
the "feet" are long enough so it isn't tippy.  She's built like a tank and
 I've
gotten on top ofitwhile fully loaded with wood to get other things from
 between
it and the wall, no problem holding everything up.  It doesn't solve the
 proble
of holding wood shorter than 6' long but with a little imagination that
 problem
is easily solved.

If this looks somewhat familiar, I got a glimpse of Norm's wood rack one time
and came up with this poor man's version as an alternative.  I've also seen
 one
in Wood magazine that was really cool but it was overkill for me.

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines)
Subject: Random Orbital Sander Recommendation
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 14:10:11 GMT



--
- Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU (Steve Rimar)
Subject: Re: Hartville Tool & Supply.
Organization: The University of Akron
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:42:02 GMT

I live just a couple of miles from the Hartville Tool and Supply.
They are very knowledgeable and honest.  The people that work there are
very good and know what they sell.  They have an excellent inventory of
all kinds of tools.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*                                                                       *
*  STEVE RIMAR                       INTERNET: D1SAR@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU  *
*  INFORMATION SERVICES              BITNET:   D1SAR@AKRONVM            *
*  THE UNIVERSITY OF AKRON                                              *
*  AKRON, OHIO  44325           "TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING IS WONDERFUL" *
*                                                                       *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: john@cirrus.com (John Wishneusky)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Scraping versus Sanding
Summary: Scraping and Sanding
Date: 17 Nov 92 15:15:38 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Cirrus Logic Inc.  Fremont, California

In article <1992Nov17.052451.7139@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>John Wishneusky writes
>> I watched a Fine Woodworking video, I think it was on wood finishing,
>> where the craftsman demonstrated planing and scraping prior to
>> applying a finish to new wood.  The piece he domonstrated on had an
>> area of "wild grain". 
>
>Sounds like Frank Klausz's tape on wood finishing.
>
Thanks for completing the reference for me.
>
>> He had to approach little bits of the area from
>> different directions to get the best result, reading shifts in the
>> grain, but he did all the final surface preparation with a cabinet
>> scraper. 
>
>If it *is* Klausz's tape, you need to keep watching. He brought out the
>sandpaper and gave the piece and thorough sanding (I think with 220 grit)
>after scraping, and before applying the French polish.
>
>- Bennett Leeds
>bennett@adobe.com

Alright, you caught me :-)  I do always give a quick final _hand_
sanding after scraping, but I find that a significant improvement over
previous mechanized methods.  I can get rid of all the mill marks and
surface irregularities with the scraper, and the wood just gets a
once-over with a piece of fine sandpaper.

I didn't recall whether or not Frank used sandpaper in the video.  I
think the main point I'm trying to make is that the scraper does work
well on hardwoods.  It can be used effectively on difficult grain near
the point of applying the finish.  I'm very cautious about trying a
hand plane in some circumstances because of the risk of tearout.  The
scraper doesn't give me pause, I know from experience that it'll
improve the surface.

I also find that small scrapers ground on the spot from bits of old
hacksaw blade are great for cleaning out dado corners, rebates, etc.
In these cases, I just use the edge produced by the grinding wheel.
The smaller the length of contact of the scraper's edge, the greater the
concentration of cutting force and the less fussy the edge has to be
to cut the wood.

John
From: gph@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Paul Houtz)
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 18:38:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Problem with router
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
>
>> My solution was to junk the Sears router and buy a Porter Cable.
>
>I have to second this advice.  If you can't seat the bit fully in the
>collet and tighten it securely without some sort of kludge, it's hard to
>see how you'll get any kind of repeatability.  How much are you out, anyway?
>----------

   Beware!   

   I have seen instructions on three different makes of routers which
   specifically state NOT to seat the bit fully in the collet.   My Sears
   router, ca 1970 specifically says that, my Bosch 1615EVS specifically
   says this, and I believe I was looking at the instructions for a 
   Makita that said the same thing.

   In addition, Patrick Spielman in his book "Router Jigs and Techniques"
   also says that it is a bad idea to fully seat the bit in the collet.

   My Bosch instructions say to seat the bit fully and then raise it up
   at least 1/8" before tightening.

   I thought the concern was that the bit might freeze in the collet, but
   perhaps it may also not seat properly and slip.