HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bae@gpu.utcs.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher)
Subject: Re: Heritage seeds
Organization: University of Toronto Computing Services
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 21:27:19 GMT

In article <ware.714977046@ee.ualberta.ca> ware@ee.ualberta.ca (Philip Andrew Ware) writes:
>
>I just returned from a trip with a young woman who
>works at a heritage site here in town, namely Fort
>Edmonton Park.  She supervises the 1890's green house
>as is interested in collecting older varieties of seed
>and I thought I could be of some assistance, rather
>someone out there in netland could be.
>
>If you have any archives of past heritage seed discussions
>or even a number of a heritage seed bank, I and she would
>be grateful.
>
>thanks in advance,
>Phil Ware
>ware@bode.ee.ualberta.ca

Others have posted about the Seed Savers' Exchange in the U.S.  There is a
similar organization in Canada called the Heritage Seed Program.  They've
been going for about 5 or 6 years.

Here's an excerpt from their literature:

	Anyone is welcome to join the Program, even if they do not wish to
	become a grower.  Your membership supports our preservation efforts
	and educational programs.  As a member you will receive our periodical
	three times a year.  It contains articles on seed saving, genetic
	preservation, the heritage gardens of historical sites, seed companies
	which sell heirloom varieties, and the backgrounds of some of the 
	wonderful varieties which are part of our heritage.  The December
	issue contains a Listing of all the seeds which are being offered
	by our members.

I joined last year and hope to offer some seeds this December.  The
"periodical" is of very good quality.  They have some other publications,
such as a booklet on saving seeds, the proceedings of a conference held
last fall, and others.  Volunteers give talks and put up displays at shows
and fairs.

Membership info:	Regular member		$12
			Fixed Income		 $9
			Supporting Member	$20
			U.S. & Foreign		$17

Make cheques payable to Heritage Seed Program, mail to:

	Heritage Seed Program
	RR3
	Uxbridge, Ontario
	Canada	L9P 1R3

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bbeer@milton.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer)
Subject: WANTED: Meditteranean plant species
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:09:27 GMT

I have been searching for a few plants that I saw growing in Greece and Turkey,
but have not found offered commercially yet.

They are:

Gladiolus communis
Gladiolus illyricum
(these are both slender hot pink glads with grasslike leaves)

Eryngium creticum
(and for that matter, any other mediterranean eryngium species besides 
amethystinum) (E. creticum and maritimum are both beautiful plants colored
deep to sky blue, over all parts of the plant)

Biarum tenuifolium
(One of the stinky aroids - blooms in the fall with a brown/purple calla-like
flower with a disgusting odor - well, you can't argue with taste!)

Tulipa boeotica
(A large wild tulip species with red pointed petals, yellow and black at the 
base)

Sternbergia spp.
Crocus-like plants with bright yellow flowers, pointed petals, Autumn-blooming.

If anyone is growing any of these and might like to grade something, or knows
of a source for any of them, please let me know!

Thanks a million,

Bob

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: What to Do with Japapenos?
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 23:20:04 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <1992Aug31.203114.13777@ncsu.edu>, roberson@eos.ncsu.edu (JAMES D ROBERSON) writes:
|> 
|> Fill the air space in the jars with the water vinegar mixture.  I sometimes
|> drop a bay leave and/or clove(s) of garlic in each jar at this point.
|> 
|> Put on lids and rings and process in water bath for 15 minutes.

I find that if I add some alum (sp?) in the jar, that I get nice crispy peppers. 
Otherwise I get somewhat mushy peppers.  How much alum?  I don't know.  I just
shake some in there.

Can you put in too much alum?

As a side note:  My wife loves to use the juice from the pickled hot peppers for
adding to stir-fry dishes.  I seem to find more jars of dryed out pickled hot
peppers in the fridge than anything else.

-- 

James White 
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: Heirloom/antique fruit trees.
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 16:52:16 GMT

I forgot a couple of points in my previous posting.

Southmeadow also carries several types of "cyder" apple trees - trees
with the correct blend of acids and sugars for fresh or hard cider by
themselves.

Their fruit is always described in flavor and texture, etc

Just to give you an idea about Southmeadow's collection, they have
scion wood from trees grown by Isaac Newton, Louis XIV, Thomas
Jefferson, etc.

I also have a good book for heirloom apples described in gory
pomological detail with fabulous botanical illustrations (why I really
got the book - I'm an absolute pushover when it comes to good
botanical illustrations).  It's called, appropriately enough, The
Apple Book.  I got a copy from a mailorder bookhouse which deals with
discontinued books, so I doubt you'll find a copy except perhaps at a
library.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder)
Subject: Re: Pond liner questions
Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 09:56:28 GMT

In article <scheiman.2@sceng.UB.Com> scheiman@sceng.UB.Com (Scott Scheiman) writes:
>I've noted the discussions about pond liners with interest.  It's 
>timely for me.  Fixing my pond is my next big project.
>
>I have inherited (well, bought actually) a small (8' square) cement 
>pond, and traced its incessant leaking to a crack which completely 
>crosses it!
>
>I've tried epoxy paint and various fillers, to no avail.  The two 
>"halves" of the pond move together and apart too much for these 
>(presumably mostly due to variations in hydrostatic pressure of the 
>ground underneath, among other things). 
>

You do not say what kind of fillers that you tried to use.  Since you 
already have a working set-up (except for the crack), maybe you could
fill the crack/join the 2 halves with something that is flexible 
enough that it could take-up the movement.  Maybe silicone caulking, 
maybe a strip of rubber and some silicone caulk/adhesive (if the crack
is currently fairly wide)  maybe some tar-based stuff (like what goes
in the pressure seams in concrete roads and the like?).  What are wooden
boats currently caulked with?  (it used to be rope and tar in the tall-
ship days).  Whatever is used, it must take-up some movement.

I'm no expert pond-builder, so take this with a grain of salt.

John
snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Brown spots in lawns
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 17:54:27 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.170240.1720@news2.cis.umn.edu> mejh@epx.cis.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) writes:
>My wife and I on occasion go for walks around the neighborhood, and
>recently, we've noticed some oddities. It seems as though about 1/4 
>or 1/5 of the lawns have large brown spots (on the order of 20-100 
>square feet) in otherwise green (well watered) yards. These spots
>generally seem to be located underneath trees. Our neighbor has 
>been watering the heck out of the ones in their yard, with no noticable
>results.  We live around Mpls/St. Paul area in Minnesota.

if the brown spots are under pine trees, the tree causes the problem -
if there are a lot of dogs (male) they may be lifting their leg on and/or
  around the base of the tree(s)
if dogs do their 'duty' on the grass it can kill the grass (cause it to 
  go brown)
if the person has gas piped in, there may be a leak, this will cause the 
  grass to turn brown

my mom lives in So St Paul, she has a huge maple tree in the front yard 
and except where the roots come up, its green - same for her neighbors 
trees in their fron yard (don't remember what kind of trees they have)

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Poison ivy & "roundup"
From: strauss@uncavx.unca.edu
Date: 2 Sep 92 07:49:56 -0500
Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville
Nntp-Posting-User: strauss

I moved into a house last fall, and found that this year the place was overrun
with poison ivy. After consulting with an organic farmer and with the county ag
agent, I sprayed (and sprayed and sprayed) Roundup. It works well, and even
gets rid of Kudzu (by the 3rd spraying!).

Now, to dispose of the refuse. Does anyone have experience with dead PI?  I
plan to wear gloves, pull it up, and bag it--don't think it would be good in a
compost heap. Any opinions/advice?

Thanks,
I remain, itchily yours,

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++           Bob Strauss            ++
++         Ramsey Library           ++
++          UNC-Asheville           ++
++       Asheville, NC 28804        ++
++       Strauss@UNCA.bitnet        ++
++     Strauss@uncavx.unca.edu      ++ 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From: Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.therose.pdx.com (Jack Honeycutt)
Sender: postmaster@therose.pdx.com
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Pond Building
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 22:42:00 -0700

Hello Louise!

26 Aug 92, Louise Twiggs writes to All:

 LT> Well, I am cheating a bit, I have access to a machine in the US, and I run
 LT> NEWS from there.  (It's a bit slow despite the X25).

yes, X25 can be slow...

 >> Jack, SYSOP The Garden Pond BBS, Portland Oregon, USA.

 LT> Is your BBS free?  - or would I need to subscribe - I guess it would
 LT> still be costly from the UK.

Yes it is a free BBS, I support 16.8k, 14.4k (v.32 bis), HST, 9600, and so on
(also 1800hz guard tone for all of you in the UK)  1-503-735-3074

Even at night it can be a expencive call, but If you turn your "capture" on in
your comm. program, and ask for all the messages to be sent non stop, you can be
on and off in just a few minutes (depending on what you want to read!)

Regards from the Oregon, in The Pacific North West...

Jack

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe)
Subject: Re: white pumpkin leaves - why?
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 28 Aug 92 09:49:19 CDT

Christine_code writes

-----------------------------------


" I'm growing pumpkins and some of the leaves have turned white.   What is this
and why is it happening?   The zucchini (who lives right beside the pumpkin
patch) is also affected, though not nearly as much as the pumpkin leaves.
Info?  Advice?

Thanks for your help! "


-------------------------

    END OF MESSAGE!!

Before this year I would have said Powdery mildew was the culprit.
This appears as small white areas on the older leavs which
rapidly spread.  The spots look like powder dustings hence the name.
I've never had much trouble with it although I usually see some
starting about mid august.   I would not have responded if I 
were sure it was that.
     Maintaining good air circulation around the plants, keeping
weeds down, and not growing in areas with morning shade have always
kept it under control for me.   

However this year I have seen my acorn squash and crookneck summer
squash leaves bleach to grayish white.   The undersides remain green
and some photosynthesis continues and the plants have survived and  produced
a few fruits but I estimate a 75% drop in yield this year.  The leaves
look sunscalded.  Cantaloupes, cucumbers and butternut squash have
not had this problem.   On the plants
with the problem,  new leaves come out green  for a week or 
so but then all at once everything bleaches out again.   
Everything else in the garden is growing okay. 

Has anybody else seen this?   What is going on?.
From: shankar@ulysses.att.com (Shankar Ishwar)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Sensitive plants
Date: 4 Sep 92 15:19:01 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Murray Hill, NJ, USA

I couldn't find this plant : Mimosa Pudica / Touch-me-not / Sensitive plant
in any of the local nurseries around here.

Can someone give me the source as to where I can get the seeds OR stem ??

I would like to grow one, indoors.

Also, do U know if it would survive outdoors, here in New Jersey??

Thanks in Advance

Shankar Ishwar (shankar@ulysses.att.com)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: brianb@sprintcom (Brian Bailey)
Subject: Re: Willow Water Recipe for Root Cuttings
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1992 15:30:13 GMT
Organization: mentor
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

In article <1992Sep3.135645.8277@ncsu.edu>, roberson@eos.ncsu.edu (JAMES D ROBERSON) writes:
|> 
|> HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra) writes:
|> 
|> <In the letter to the editor of the lastest edition of Smithsonian ,
|> <(Sept. '92)  there is a quote from William C. Welch's book _Antique
|> <Roses for the South_ for willow water, which is mean't to be good
|> <for rose root cuttings.
|> 
|> How does this help the cuttings?  Is it a mild solution of nitrogen or
|> some other needed nutrient?  Also will this benefit other type of roses
|> or plants/trees?
|> 
|> thanks
|> jim

My quess would be that it contains high levels of the hormone necessary
to induce rooting. I have also heard, that mint, an exceptionally good rooter
can help if placed in the same pot. The hormones given off by the mint also
kick the other thing you are trying to root into life.

But what do I know ?

-- 
Brian Bailey

================================================================================
My thoughts are sometimes my own. Other times someone says they own them,
			    and I have no rights.
From: jat@cs.arizona.edu (Julie A. Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pumpkins
Summary: When to pick pumpkins
Date: 1 Sep 92 17:53:44 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: U of Arizona CS Dept, Tucson

In article <Btuu48.B4w@hsi.com> geiste@hsi.com (Doug Geiste) writes:
>How do I know when to pick pumpkins? I have one large one know that's
>solid orange all over. Does this mean it's ready? Will it grow any further?

It may not be quite ready to pick.  Check the vine where it meets the stem,
if it is dead then it is ready -- otherwise, let grooowwww!


-- 
Julie Turner
Computer Science Major
University of Arizona
From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Sensitive plants (??)
Date: 2 Sep 92 18:14:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: calmasd.1992Sep2.101438.737
Organization: -

In article <1992Sep1.185305.1592@ll.mit.edu>, rp@llex.ll.mit.edu ( Richard Pavelle) writes:
> 
> I saw a strange plant a few days ago but the owner did not
> have a name for it. It is a large flowering plant with the
> remarkable ability to close its leaves when its stem was touched. 
> The owner called it a "Sensitive Plant" but could supply no
> further info. Can someone identify it for me? Thanks.

From Sunset Garden book:

"Mimosa pudica.  Sensitive plant.  Tender perennial usually grown as
houseplant curiosity.  To 18 in. high or less.  Leaves finely cut into
tiny leaflets.  These leaves and branchlets, when touched or
otheriwise disturbed, droop and fold up with astonishing speed.  They
quickly expand again.  Small pink "silk tree" blossoms.  Grow from
seed indoors or in bright light in warm green house.  They will grow
outdoors, but are not sufficiently attractive for garden [not sure I
agree with that].  Transplant carefully to 4 in pots.  Avoid
overwatering.  Their only use is to demonstrate movement in plants;
childern find them fascinating."

Gee, I must be a child I find them fascinating and cute.

Jim
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: joey@q7.tessi.com (Joe Pruett)
Subject: cauliflower and bugs
Organization: Q7 Enterprises
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1992 01:48:19 GMT

my cauliflowers (and cabbage and brussel sprouts) and covered
with bugs.  the look kinda like aphids, but mainly i see large
clumps of dead bug husks with some sticky stuff covering them.
i just look at genius.usask.ca and saw a description of
scale bugs which sounded like a possibility.

anyway, the plants seem healthy, but i just harvested my first
cauliflower today, and i can't seem to clean all these bugs
and stuff off.  i've tried cold and warm water with a fair
bit of pressure.  i've soaked it for an hour or so, but these
things have a pretty good glue.  what should i try next?
soap, maybe?

is there anything i can do before i harvest the rest of my
plants to try and eliminate these things?

thanks for any and all help you can provide...
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking
From: cwright@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (wright christine l)
Subject: More (hot) pepper questions
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 19:28:39 GMT

This is my first year growing peppers (cayenne, jalepeno, anaheim & serrano) 
and I have a bumper crop.  Now I need to know what to do with them. . .
other than salsa (there have been loads of great recipes posted here) or
canning.  There was some discussion of freezing jalepenos.  Does this work
well with the other varieties?  Other than nachos or texas bullets, what
recipes do you have?  Also, the first peppers we picked (jalepenos) had no
flavor and, worse, no fire.  Is there any sure way of knowing when to pick?
Should we let them turn red?  Many thanks. . . . 
:wq


-- 
Christine Wright
cwright@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: phil@lotatg.lotus.com (Phil Ritari)
Subject: Re: Hummingbird-like insect?
Organization: Lotus Development Corp.
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 15:24:26 GMT

In article <1992Aug10.231737.17298@u.washington.edu>  
bbeer@milton.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) writes:
> In article <4390@news.duke.edu> spencer@cerenkov.RadOnc.Duke.EDU (David P.  
Spencer) writes:
> >Yesterday, there was great excitement in my family, as a bizarre insect was 
> >sighted sipping from the Vincas.  I swore that it was a hummingbird, as it 
> >hovered and flew just like one, sipped from the flowers just like one, and 
> >had a green velvety/feathery back just like one.  However, my wife pointed 
> >out that it had 6 legs, distinctly unlike a hummingbird.  It was somewhat 
> >smaller than than the hummers we usually get, and I think it had only 2 
> >wings.  It didn't stop flapping.  I looked in our insect reference books, 
> >but struck out.  
> >
> >Any ideas?  It has been sighted in our garden twice before.  
> >
> >David
> 
> It was a sphinx moth most likely. There are diunal and nocturnal species -


There is an actual hummingbird moth which looks almost exactly like a small  
hummingbird.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam)
Subject: Re: white pumpkin leaves - why?
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 14:42:59 GMT


>I'm growing pumpkins and some of the leaves have turned white.   What is this
>and why is it happening?   The zucchini (who lives right beside the pumpkin
 
  Fungus induced by humid August weather, I think.  I have the same
problem, as do all my neighbours.  It hasn't been bad enough for me to
want to do anything yet, but I suppose fungicide might be suggested for
extreme cases.

  Are there any other possibilities?  I'd hate to have to dust with
poisons if it was not in fact fungus.

Shih Tung
Chem E
Best l'il Tech School
on the Charles
From: stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com (Steve Miller)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pond liner questions
Date: 28 Aug 92 16:41:58 GMT
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

In article <2949@voodoo.UUCP> mnb@voodoo.boeing.com (Mike Burr) writes:
>As long as we're on the subject of ponds, I've got another question.  I just
>bought a house that has a ~50x40 foot gunite lined pond.  The previous owners
>didn't ever clean the pond, so it has quite a bit of sediment ect. on the
>bottom.  How do people clean their ponds, and how clean should you keep them.
>I would think you want some middle ground between "sterile" and 1 ft of 
>decaying stuff on the bottom.
>
>Thanks,
>-- 
>Michael Burr   mnb@voodoo.boeing.com  | Boeing Computer Services, Bellevue WA

I drain mine by siphon, as low as I can, then I use a wet/dry shopvac to
suck up all the crud and the rest of the water, adding water as needed to
flush it clean.  I don't clean it very often, once a pond is balanced, it
pretty much takes care of itself.  Usually, it is because that is the only
way I can catch all the baby Koi fish that have appeared.  I must have a
pleasure palace, as I sometimes get 70 to 80 of the little guys.  Anyone
have an easy method for catching these?

Favorite quote, overheard at the aquatic nursery:

Customer:  I want to buy some Koi, and what do I have to do to make them breed?

Nurseryman:  Well, it's pretty hard to stop them.

Steve
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Miller, Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA. 95959, Mail stop N32B
916-478-3059, stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com.  The Six Phases of a Project:
  1. Enthusiasm  2. Disillusionment  3. Panic  4. Search for the guilty
  5. Punishment of the innocent  6. Praise and reward for the nonparticipants
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: How to grow grass?
Date: 1 Sep 92 19:03:36 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes:
> There were several pine trees on the lot so I am going to put down some
> holmitic (spelling?) lime to counter a little of the acidity and then I am
> going to put down some seed.  What kind of seed should I use?  Someone told
> me to use "sun and shade" seed.  Another person told me that "Lofts" is a good
> brand name.  Any other advice?
> 
> I know I have to do a lot of watering.  Should I water twice a day for two
> weeks?  Two months?  Then once a day for another time period?

You may want to do a very basic soil test (our local extension service 
does pH and NPK for $8) before you start putting down soil amendments.

The FAQ on lawns is _still_ being written (where does the time go?!),
but for MA, I'd guess you probably want a mixed bluegrass/fescue lawn--
bluegrass for the sun, and fescue for the shade.   I've always purchased
separate amounts of each of the seed types I intend to use, and then
make my own "custom blends".  When you are buying seed, calculate
costs on the basis of "Pure live seed": purity % x germination %.  Cheap
seed is often more expensive.

ALSO: seed with up to 5% of its weight in weed seed can be sold legally
in the US.  So I ALWAYS read the list of weed seeds from the label-- and
reject those with seeds that I find troublesome.  For instance, Poa
annua is not a problem for me-- it likes high N, high moisture lawns.
Drives greenskeepers at the golf courses nuts...

Will try to post what I have ASAP.

Kay