HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: craig@sco.COM (Craig R.P. Heath)
Subject: Re: different camera names in US - why ?
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 13:29:06 GMT
Summary: Yes, protectionism
Keywords: injustice


robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
>phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:

>> 	Is there a reason why camera model numbers in the US are different
>> 	from the rest of the world ?

>> So the US importer knows the camera was not bought from them,
>> if someone sends it in for warranty service.

>Ah, protectionism! Canon here in Sweden doesn't care that I bought my EOS-1
>in the U.K. even though I tell them.

It was my impression that the problem they are trying to address is
exactly the reverse, but still protectionism.  Camera and lens prices are
so much cheaper in the US than the rest of the world, that they relabel
products in the US to discourage individuals and grey market dealers
from buying cameras retail or wholesale in the US and then selling them
as new stock in Europe.

I suspect Canon Sweden would be more likely to object if the EOS-1
came from the US.

(I realise that my first paragraph contains an implicit assumption
that the entire world can be divided into the US and Europe, but that's
close enough to the truth, isn't it :-)  Seriously, I have no information
on camera prices in say, Japan or Canada, and I'd be interested to know
how these markets compare.

	- Craig @ SCO near London.
From: kjm@ubbpc.tredydev.Unisys.COM (Ken J. McFadden)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Anyone have a copy of the Nikon FAQ?
Date: 6 Nov 92 16:46:20 GMT
Organization: Unisys UNIX Portation Center, Blue Bell, PA

Hi,

I used to post the Nikon FAQ, before changing jobs.  I put it on
a floppy disk that I can't seem to find anywhere.  8^(

If anybody has a copy they could email me, I'll start updating it
and posting it again.

---
Ken McFadden  Unisys Corporation  Open Systems Marketing Services
tredysvr!ubbpc!kjm@gvls1.gvl.unisys.com  (215) 986-3326
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: Photo Schools
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
Date: 11 Nov 92 21:03:57

I've taken some classes at the ASUC studio (i.e. student union) at UC
Berkeley.  Format was 5 or 6 two-hour classes, one night a week.  I
took a photojournalism class and another in Type C color printing.
Both were educational and lots of fun; neither would have turned
anyone into a pro photographer overnight.  The main benefit is that
you get real experts looking at your work and giving you pointers.
For this reason, I think face to face contact is better than a
correspondence course.  Also, I feel that a course stretched out over
several weeks is better than the same number of hours of instruction
in 1 or 2 days, because between classes you can try out the
instructors' suggestions and have time to get the film developed.

The ASUC courses cost around $60 each and had 8 or so students if I
remember right.  The instructor got most of the money with the studio
skimming a cut---a good deal for everyone involved.  My guess is that
with Nikon and NYI, a lot of the money goes to executives and
marketroids not involved in photography and that is what makes them
more expensive.

A friend of mine took some more serious courses at a local junior
college.  These were in pro lighting techniques and product
photography and had real projects, grades, etc.--the courses were
quite a lot of work but he got correspondingly more out of it.
I don't remember the costs or details but again it was surprisingly
cheap.

In all cases, the instructors were expert professionals and good
teachers.  It's sad that photography is such an unlucrative profession
that these people are teaching these cheap classes instead of making
megabucks shooting photographs, but it is certainly nice for would-be
students.

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: D98O@br1.hrz.th-darmstadt.de (Jochen Fuehrer)
Subject: Minox feature list
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 08:55:54 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20
Organization: Technical University Darmstadt, Germany


Minox feature list 
Minox is a german camera manufacturer that started with miniature
cameras (spy-cameras) about 1950. They still build miniature cameras
(special 8mm film), called LX. This is aboput their 24x36 cameras.
They are all made in Germany and have the following features:

lens 2.8/35mm Color Minotar, high quality 4-lens system
lens folding into camera body
manual (guess-) focus
f16 smallest aperture
manual ASA setting
automatic exposure timer 1s-1/500s
standard hot shoe for flash, different Minox flashes
very compact plastic body (smallest 24x36 camera)
silver oxide (later lithium) battery
electric shutter release

Different Models
EL 1975-79
GL 1979-81   + exposure correction switch (x2) on top
GT 1981-     + self timer

some later models are derivates of the GT (Touring..)

PL 1982-     low cost version, full auto exp. only
PE 1983-     PL+ built in flash

ML 1985-    different body, slightly bigger
            LED meter
            center weighted meter
            exposure hold
            aperture preset + full auto exposure

MB          ML without full auto exp.

Accessories for M-models are incompatible with the others (Minox flash,
filters, batteries)
Minox 24x36 cameras were designed for the SLR photographer who wants a
second camera to fit in his pocket. Features are similar to non-AF SLRs,
lens quality is comparable so you can easily mix slides taken with the
minox and with the SLR. You can use your standars flash, but it might
be 3 times the size of the camera.
There are some accessories like a nice mini-tripod, bags,...
Some disadvantages:
camera may be difficult to use with big hands
using slow or medium exposure times you need extra care not to shake the
camera due to its light weight
at least the GT and GL are said to have quality problems and are not so
reliable. I have a GL and a MB, both work fine. 
Anybody with other experiences?

Jochen         d98o@br1.hrz.th-darmstadt.de
  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: wtyler@adobe.com (William Tyler)
Subject: Re: 4x5 dups of 4x5 trans
Followup-To: rec.photo
Summary: Mirror reversals
Organization: Adobe Systems Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 18:57:47 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.164920.26598@col.hp.com> sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks) writes:
(regarding 4x5 transparency dupes)
>I thought of something else.  If you only want to make 1:1 dupes, you
>could use any format enlarger with a color head and make contact dupes
>in a contact printing frame under the enlarger.  These will probably
>be sharper than those made with a lens anyway and the equipment is
>much less expensive.  The main drawback is that you might have problems
>with newton rings.

There is one other problem. To get sharp focus you need to place the original
and the dupe with their emulsions touching. But this will give you a mirror-
reversed dupe. If that's not a problem, go for it.

Bill



-- 
Bill Tyler      wtyler@adobe.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon EM ***
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Date: 5 Nov 92 09:12:57 EST
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: world
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

In article <1992Nov4.212751.3011@newshub.sdsu.edu>, guest@voyager3.sdsu.edu
(Guest User) wrote:
> I  am planning on buyin ga Nikon EM. Could someone give me some info on the 
> camera. Any useful info is appreciated. I am particularly interested in
> knowing if it has full manual mode and whether it is a good camera for a 
> serious amateur.

S-

The EM does not have a manual mode.  It does have a readout in the
viewfinder that shows what the shutter speed will be.  You could easily
vary the aperture setting to get the shutter speed you want.  I don't think
you can override the exposure value unless you change the film speed
setting.

The EM is a "quality cheap" camera.  I paid $105 for mine with the 50mm
f/1.8 series E lens, about two years ago.  I have seen others for about
that price, but some places seem to be selling it for as much as $190, body
plus lens.  I think it is expected to become a "collector's item", or
something!

I believe you can get a better camera for your purposes for the same money.
 Someone suggested a Nikon FE, but it may cost more.  The FE, or the newer
FM2 and FE2, would definitely be a good choice, as would several cameras of
other brands.  Examples are Minolta X-700, Olympus OM-1, 2, 3 or 4, Pentax
MX, LX or Super Program, Canon AE-1 Program.  The list will grow if you
would accept auto-focus.

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
From: smecker@ap1seq.us.oracle.com (Satyajit Singh Mecker)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Decent color prints in the SF Bay Area
Date: 7 Nov 92 01:55:38 GMT
Followup-To: smecker@us.oracle.com
Organization: Oracle Corporation
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

I've heard that I can't really get the same level of color saturation in print
film that I can get from slide film.  Well since I don't have a slide projector
and would need to make prints from slides regularly (which would be horrendously
expensive if done regularly), I'm looking for the next best thing.....a decent
lab in the Bay Area that could print high quality prints.  

I've also been told to use Fuji Reala rather than Ektar for better results (most
of my photography is done outdoors...).   I guess that's dependent on where I 
take my film.  

Can anyone recommend a good lab for Ektar as well as Fuji around the Bay Area?


Thanks,
-Singh
From: laurap@neuro.duke.edu (Laura Elizabeth Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: request for info
Date: 12 Nov 92 17:43:29 GMT

I am putting together a binder, and hopefully a diskette full of info for
anyone in this area who might need some information. From time to time I
will request info from netters...and please respond!!! I need all I can get,
and yes I'll be expecting a deluge of mail!

TODAY'S REQUEST: Please send me recommendations of color and black and white
film. Include your favorite brands, and any editorial comments on anytying
you've tried before. Helpful hints and idiosyncrasies of particular types
are nice...

email only to laurap@neuro.duke.edu

thanks!
p.s. if you want a copy of the disk when it's finally done, let me know. I'll
be putting a LOT of stuff on it, from film and equipment to various processes.

laura

-- 

the crazy bee mad about somebody
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fm@neptune.iex.com (Mohammad Farooq)
Subject: Nikon FA (Black body) for sale
Originator: fm@neptune.iex.com
Organization: iex
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:57:39 GMT




Nikon FA features:

Body color             : Black
Type of camera         : 35mm SLR
Viewfiner              : Fixed eyelevel pentaprism type
Exposure metering      : TTL full aperture exposure measurement.
                         Center weight and multi pattern.
Metering range         : EV1 to EV20
Exposure mode          : Program/Aperture/Shutter/Manual
Exposure comp.         : +-2EV
Film speed range       : 12 to 4000
Shutter speed          : 1 to 1/4000 sec.
Without battery speed  : 1/250 sec
Flash sync             : 1/250 sec.
Depth of field preview : YES
Multi exposures        : YES

Camera is in mint condition(just like new). Asking $310+shipping. Please send
email or call.

office: 214-612-2600
home: 214-306-9333



Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fr@compu.com (Fred Rump from home)
Subject: Re: How much to charge for print?
Organization: CompuData Inc.
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 19:51:53 GMT

monson@hobo.ECE.ORST.EDU (Ty Monson) writes:

> As a practical matter, do you have *any* idea of what your prospective
> buyer was thinking of paying? It will do you no good to ask 3 or 4 times
> the amount your prospective buyer was expecting to pay.
> And it *certainly* does you no good to ask 1/3 or 1/4.

On this subject: Are there any folks out there who have their own Black & 
White Lab and would be willing to do some side work for a fee? I would think 
that an experienced amateur would take more care (and time) in doing special 
work which could be explained via email in detail. 

I took a bunch of B&W photos (on a recent trip to Europe) of 'pictures' of 
relatives and need cropping and cutouts etc from this film. I don't even know 
if I should have this film developed in a regular photo processing service or 
what. 

Fred

PS this trip was sort of a genealogical exposition and nobody wanted to part 
with their precious pictures.
-- 
W. Fred Rump 	office:	   fred@COMPU.COM     'mans feet have grown/so big 
26 Warren St.   home: fred@icdi10.compu.com  that he/forgets his littleness'
Beverly, NJ. 08010                          		Don Marquis 
609-386-6846    bang:uunet!cdin-1!icdi10!fr
From: v462etnn@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (David L Anderson)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Dechert's Canon book
Date: 7 Nov 92 01:28:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Hloe!

I've got a nice copy of Peter Dechert's _Canon: Rangefinder Cameras
1933-68_.  I don't have much use for it since my IIS2 was stolen
two years ago.

Any offers?

David
Organization: Junior, Chemistry, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:56:55 -0500 
From: "Glen M. Devries" <gd1a+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: FOR SALE:EOS 630 - mint

FOR SALE:

Canon EOS 630. Mint Condition, with blank warranty cards. Original Box.
No manual.

$225 with shipping anywhere in USA.


will sell for $480 including mint condition 28-80 f3.5-4.5 USM lens.


Please respod by e-mail to gd1a+@andrew.cmu.edu
From: spa@fct.unl.pt (Salvador Pinto Abreu)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Concert Film?
Date: 4 Nov 92 13:28:13 GMT
Organization: Universidade Nova de Lisboa -- Lisbon, Portugal

>>>>> Regarding Concert Film?; poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) says:

Thomas> I will be going to a rock concert this Friday and hope to take 
Thomas> some photos of the event. Since it is a small venue I hope to
Thomas> get fairly close to the stage. Lighting will be from the    
Thomas> usual stage spotlights (tungsten I assume). Since I don't want
Thomas> to attract too much attention, flash is out of the question.

You didn't say whether you wanted slides or print, anyway here's my
experience with slides.

If you can find something to lean on (eg. the stage), or if you take a
monopod along, Ektachrome 400X (EPZ if I remember right) is a good
choice. I had some pretty satisfactory results with this film using
105/2.5 and 180/2.8 lenses: setting the camera against the stage I
could get down to 1/30@2.8 with the 180, and the pictures came out ok
(ie, no shake).  With a tripod 1/15 also worked out well.

Color rendition was a bit warm (yellow-reddish), but generally ok. I
don't know to characterize the lighting, but they had some white and
blue spotlights that actually came out that way on film.

./salvador
--
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: bongers@gto400.asd.sgi.com (Hans L. Bongers)
Subject: Re: Flashing "ISO" in Elan
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc., Mountain View, CA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 00:22:40 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.213018.22433@oracle.us.oracle.com>, smecker@ap1seq.us.oracle.com (Satyajit Singh Mecker) writes:
|> Funny....I had a similar problem when loading DX coded Kodak Tri-X Pan (b&w).   The camera
|> had set the speed correctly to ASA 125 when I checked, yet the indicator kept on flashing.
|> I decided to go ahead anyway and the photos came out great ! 
|> 
|> I presumed some scratch marks on the DX code confused the code reader.
|> 
|> - Singh

Gee...  And all this time, I was sure that Tri-X was 400ASA!!
From: TSOS@uni-duesseldorf.de (Detlef Lannert)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Sharpness
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 14:49:16 GMT
Organization: Universitaetsrechenzentrum, Heinrich-Heine-Universitaet, Duesseldorf
NNTP-Posting-Host: lannert.rz.uni-duesseldorf.de
Keywords: Sharp

In article <1992Nov5.105842.21507@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:

>In <1992Nov5.023325.20009@cs.mun.ca> michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes:
>
>>  This isn't exactly in the FAQ, so I hope someone can help me out.
>
>>  The problem is, my pictures aren't coming out as sharp as I would like.
>>Is the sharpness of a photo strictly a function of lense quality?  Or am
>>I not doing something quite right?
>
>>  I'm using a Pratika 35mm MTL-5 SLR, with a Tamron 70-210 f3.8, the exact
>>model number I am not sure of.
>
>>  Any advice?
>
>It is quite possible that the length of the light path to your focusing
>screen is different from the length of the light path to your film plane.
>In other words, the focusing screen may be telling you you're in focus
>when really you're not.
>
>So, try taking pictures of something at a 45 degree angle and fiddle
>with the focus.  Cheap targets include a ruler, or newspaper.  Set
>everything up for maximum magnificaiton, focus on the middle mark, set
>your lens to its widest aperture (for minimum DOF) and shoot.  After
>developing the film, see if the middle mark is the sharpest.  If not,
>your focusing screen may need adjusting.

A simple (although not quite as accurate) test is the following: Set the
lens focusing ring to infinity, point at a sufficiently distant object,
and see if the image in the finder is sharp (watch the microprisms or
the split image). [This doesn't work with long fast telephotos or mirror
lenses; but it might work with your Tamron zoom lens.]

If you can get a sharper image when you set the focusing ring to a 
position slightly before infinity, the lens might just be imprecise; but
if you feel you want an extra bit of focusing beyond infinity, then 
probably the focusing screen is off.

Just a cheap preliminary test (worth about $.02).
--
Detlef Lannert      DC3EK      E-Mail: tsos@rz.uni-duesseldorf.de
"Gedanken sind nicht stets parat,
man schreibt auch, wenn man keine hat."             Wilhelm Busch
From: gray@cac.washington.edu (Terry Gray)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Dry mounting press queries
Date: 11 Nov 92 03:32:30 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Nov11.033230.15778
Organization: UW Networks and Distributed Computing

Four questions:

1. Are Seal presses sufficiently superior to Bogen presses to justify
   their considerably higher prices?

2. What is the difference between a Seal 210M and the 210MX which
   costs $100+ more?

3. What is a ProSeal 1620H ?

4. Any other manufacturers that should be considered?

Thanks!
--
Terry Gray
 University of Washington
  gray@cac.washington.edu
From: d6jvb@dtek.chalmers.se (Johan von Boisman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Info on Nikon FA
Date: 10 Nov 92 08:21:38 GMT
Organization: Chalmers University of Technology, Gothenburg Sweden


Hello netters,

On behalf of a net-less friend, I'd like to gather as much
info, pros/cons etc. about the Nikon FA camera. Please mail
me and I'll summarize and repost.








--
Johan von Boisman          Chalmers University of Technology
d6jvb@dtek.chalmers.se     Gothenburg, SWEDEN
From: rodgers@ismdqa.intel.com (Mike Rodgers ~)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Maxxum 7xi and zoom lenses
Date: 12 Nov 92 21:15:58 GMT
Organization: Intel Corp.

In article <74200@apple.apple.COM> chuq@Apple.COM (Eeyore's Evil Twin) writes:
>dwing@cudnvr.denver.colorado.edu (Dan Wing) writes:
>
>
>Unfortunately, Minolta has phased out it's 'i' line of lenses, so if you
>want the older style with real manual focus, you either need to track down a
>dealer with older stock or go to a third party lens like Sigma. (one other
>thing to worry about with the 'xi' lens. It'll work on an 'i' style camera
>like the 5000i, but without any way to enable manual focus. They're pure
>point and shoot.
>

Well, this is not exactly true: while Minolta has phased out most of it's 
older AF zooms, they are still distributing much of their pre-'xi' line of
lenses such as the 20mm/f2.8, 85mm/f1.4, 16mm fisheye, 50mm and 100mm macros,
200mm, 3000mm and 600mm APOs, etc.  I sold my remaining i-series zooms
last week as I used them <1% of the time compared to my fixed focal lenngth
lenses.

Mike Rodgers
From: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Enlarger tips wanted
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:01:58 GMT
Reply-To: bjs@RUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

donl mathis writes:

>(Stephen Page) writes:
>
>|> [...]
>
>I have a pair of enlarger tips on my shelf; they're the older,
>cast-iron variety, rather than the newer aluminum style, but they
>should still get the job done.  I'd be happy to sell them to you at a
>very reasonable price.  In fact, you can have them free, if you pay the
>shipping.
>
>:)

Oh donl, donl, donl.  I thought better of you than to attempt to mis-lead
the trusting readers of rec.photo in this way.  Implying that the grossly
out-moded aluminum enlarger tips are "the newer style".  Surely you must know 
that carbon-fiber bodied, fuzzy-logic driven, auto-zooming enlarger tips have
completely superceded those other outmoded dinosaurs.  Why, rather than
charging people for the shipping, you should be *paying* them to accept your
old cast-iron enalrger tips.  Forsooth!

:-)

Barry

P.s.  Well, now that I think about it, I *do* think that the cast-iron variety
hold the dark in better ... ;-)




--


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp.  | PROGRAM: n. A magic spell cast over a com-  |
| bjs@ruts.ccc.amdahl.com      | puter allowing it to turn one's input into  |
|                              | error messages.  tr.v. To engage in a pas-  |
|                              | time similar to banging one's head against  |
|                              | a wall, but with fewer opportunities for    |
|                              | reward.                                     |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Amdahl, being a corporation, is a legal fiction.  Therefore it is incapable|
| of holding, let alone expressing, opinions.  Unfortunately, this has been  |
| said of me as well.                                                        |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: milica@runx.oz.au (Milan Durovic)
Subject: slow sync and red eye on Canon EOS 100 (Elan)
Organization: RUNX Un*x Timeshare.  Sydney, Australia.
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 07:22:20 GMT

Does anyone know how to enable red-eye reduction lamp on Canon EOS 100
(Elan in US) when the command dial is in one of creative modes?

I tried slow-sync with built in flash and it worked fine, apart from red
eyes in photos containing people.

The manual does not mention that red-eye reduction lamp can be turned on
only in programmed modes, which seems to be the case.


Regards,
Milan

milica@runx.oz.au