HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: paeckman@eos.ncsu.edu (PATRICIA A ECKMAN)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: How to prevent ick?
Date: 15 Apr 92 15:17:41 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University

I have been having problems with ick infections.  I have 3 varieties of
tetras, gouramis, mollies, and cleaner fish.  I haven't introduced any new
fish in about 3 weeks.  I have a 30 gal. fresh water tank and I have added
3 teaspoons of salt.  The black shadow tetras seem most susceptible to
infection.  I have had success with treatment, but with the last flare-up,
I lost one black shadow tetra within 24 hours of noticing the ick.

What can I do to prevent these outbreaks?  Please reply by e-mail if possible.

Thanks,

Trish Eckman
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3005 rec.aquaria:3794
From: kbm8572@rigel.tamu.edu (BRYAN MILLIGAN)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Homebrew Aquaria (Poverty: Mother of invention!)
Date: 10 Apr 92 16:31:00 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Distribution: na
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <92Apr9.193241edt.339@smoke.cs.toronto.edu>, enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes...
>(Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>>It's amazing how ugly those 5 gal buckets will look, too.  
> 
>Hell, Oleg, I think they look nice!  Sorta like a commercial fish hatchery or
>experimental station or something...

	For $30 dollars I built a wet/dry filter out of
		18 gallon aquarium (tall)		$20
	 	PMMA for drip plate and baffels $10
	Pump was extra though ;->
	Looks good; works great; around 10 gal media capacity.
	Even holds Chemi-Pure (or carbon or polyfilters etc...)

bryan

KBM8572@ZEUS.TAMU.EDU (VAX 9000)
bryan@aero15.tamu.edu (Sun 4/65)
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3067 rec.aquaria:3879
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Tuesday, 14 Apr 1992 00:28:33 EDT
From: <TJS119@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Bettas in fishbowl (deja vu anyone?)
 <12492@umd5.umd.edu> <1992Apr13.033100.24277@wpi.WPI.EDU> <12532@umd5.umd.edu>

I put my male betta in my 10 gal and he freaked out so then I put him in one of
 those 2.5 gal desk hexagon tanks and he loves it.  The moral of the story is b
ig is alright, but just right is best. BTW, I kept him in a .5 gal for a while
and he hated it, so I felt sorry for him and moved him up.

                                                 Tim
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: chuck@pierre.mit.edu (Chuck Parsons)
Subject: Re: DIY Skimmer design question
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: MIT Lab for Nuclear Science
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 15:25:00 GMT

In article <1992Apr17.025356.265@aimla.com>, walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hun writes...
> 
>	I've been looking over the DIY skimmer plans I've snagged off the net
>for the past year or so, and comparing with the picture Patti posted. I'm about
>to put together my tank, and need to get cranking on this stuff.
> 
>	I've run into a few questions I need some help with:
> 
>	In Patti's picture, and in SOME of the designs I've seen, there is an
>open T-connector on the output, with some vague references to adjusting this to
>adjust the foam level.
> 
>	How does this work? I assumed you would adjust foam level by adjusting
>water flow through the thing. Am I missing something? If either method can be
>used, is one better than the other? Why?

  Basically, you need to control the water level in the skimmer. It's
a lot like controlling the water level in your tank, with a few
differences. You obviously don't want a surface overflow like a tank that
will take all the foam with it. That requires some control of 
the water in and water out. Hopefully _one_ of these is self
adjusting (a tank overflow is self adjusting for example) so that
you only have to adjust it approximately and it can handle small
variations in pump flow etc.

  My solution (not applicable to you since it works in the sump) was
as follows. Output of the skimmer is at the bottom. A PVC elbow
connects to a piece of PVC pipe that extends verticaly to just
about the height I want the water. At the top it has another
elbow, a very short piece of pipe and another elbow. The short
piece of pipe between the two elbows is not glued, it creates a pivot.
The last elbow has an 8" piece of pipe in it.  I can raise or lower
this last piece of pipe to control the output level.  The pipe
is usally tilted _down_ about 20 degrees from the horizontal. 
The whole PVC system forms a siphon and the leval of the output
controls the flow rate.

  The output runs right next to the wall of the sump, so the water runs
against the wall, and into my bio-balls so there is no loud splashing. 

  You probably should just use a ball valve, though I found my solution
maintains a more stable water level than a simple flow restriction on the 
output, which I also tried.  Because I'm using a powerhead in the sump
the flow rate of the pump varies quite a bit as the sump level
changes due to evaporation. With a restricted flow to control
the output I found the water height in the skimmer was almost
directly the same as that in the sump. That is, if the sump 
water level dropped two inches so did the water level in the skimmer.
With the sceme described above a 3" change in the sump water level produces
only about a 1" change in the skimmer water level.

Regards, Chuck@pierre.mit.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: TJS119@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: (lights) augmenting fluorescent hood
Date: 8 Apr 92 03:41:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: psuvm.92098.234132TJS119
Organization: Penn State University

I just recently got a perfecto hood for my 20 gal. long and I've found that the
re isn't enought light to see the whole aquarium.  Is it possible to put in a h
igher wattage (20w is in now).  I know you can do this with regular lights but
I wasn't sure about fluorescent.  Also would a bigger starter unit fit into the
 20w starter unit's terminal?

                                                Thanks

                                                   Tim
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3006 rec.aquaria:3797
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (D Keith Higgs)
Subject: Re: help!...goldfish in fishbowl
Keywords: fish torture, early death, naive
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 10:40:26 GMT

My response is carbon copy to that of "The Biologic Entity."

In article <1992Apr13.033100.24277@wpi.WPI.EDU> vortex@guardian (The Biologic E
ntity) writes:
+In article <12492@umd5.umd.edu> kerry@is-next.umd.edu (Kerry Ogata) writes:
+>In article <1992Apr10.184050.26647@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.a
cs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:
+
+[whole lot of stuff deleted]
+
+>I just wanted to add if you really are attached to the idea of having a fish
+>in a fishbowl, you could get a betta for it.  Just be sure to change the
+>water every day.  Then you wouldn't need the equipment.
+>
+
+[stuff about goldfish in tanks deleted too]
+
+>-- 
+>kerry@is-next.umd.edu or kogata@wam.umd.edu
+
+No matter what, it's still rather cruel to keep bettas in fish bowl.  Just bec
ause they CAN survive in them is no reason to make them do so.  After all, I'm 
sure most of the people on the net can survive in really tiny rooms with bad po
llution (like my dorm room), but there's no reason to force your pets to do the
+same thing.  The best advice is to totally abolish fishbowls.  Unless you happ
en to have the time to kill to change the water every hour or so.
+
+Vortex
-- 
D. Keith Higgs     The Ohio State University    Rm. 040-N Main Library
DATA+@osu.edu      University Libraries         1858 Neil Avenue
dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu                Columbus, Ohio  43210
--------------------------------------------------phone--(614)292-6314--
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: patti@hosehead (Patti Beadles)
Subject: Re: Reef & Breeders News Journal - call for papers
Organization: Intel Development Tools Operation, Hillsboro, OR
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 22:57:13 GMT

I assume that there will be a peer review of (at the very least) the 
scientific portion of this newsletter?  I'd like to know what the procedure
for this would be.
-- 
patti@hosehead.hf.intel.com | I don't speak for Intel, nor vice-versa.
   75555.767@compuserve.com |
             (503)-696-4358 | A1: Yes, I'm the one with the big fishtank.
or just yell, "Hey, Patti!" | A2: A lot, a lot, yes you can see it sometime.
From: pmartens@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Feeding plecotemus
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:40:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: ecst.1992Apr06.154003.12865
Reply-To: pmartens@OAVAX.CSUCHICO.EDU
Organization: California State University, Chico

FEED YOUR PLECOTEMUS TETRA MINI-TABS.
MINE JUST LOVES THEM, PLUS THEY SINK
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TAKE WHERE HE GETS
TO THEM. THE FLAKES WERE ALWAYS EATEN BEFORE
THEY REACHED THE BOTTOM.

                   PAUL
From: sonny@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: clogging sponge filters
Date: 9 Apr 92 12:33:14 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <92Apr8.152521edt.309@smoke.cs.toronto.edu> enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes:
>I have a question for you sponge-filter users.  I have been using a
>Tetra Brilliant Super Pro sponge filter on a 100 gal tank with 4
>5-inch common goldfish for a couple of months now.  In the beginning
>(the goldfish were about 3-inches long then), the filter only needed
>cleaning every 2 weeks.  About a month ago, I started having to clean
>it every week, or it would get clogged and the negative pressure of
>the airlift would cause the sponge to contract from its normal 6-inch
>diameter to more like 3 inches, and the water flow would stop completely.
>Now, even weekly isn't enough.

I have found that the tetra sponges don't last very long either. I now use
Aquaclear sponge inserts that have a hole drilled in them, or Fluval
canister filter sponges. These last alot longer (I have a friend who has some 
that are YEARS old without any deteriration), and they don't clog quickly.
I have let some run for months without cleaning, and was still able to get most of the gunk out. These sponges have a much larger pore size. I think that they
are great improvements over the tetra sponges.

To make a hole: 
1. Soak sponge in water
2.Place in freezer for a few hours
3.Drill with an electric drill

To cut sponge into shapes (I don't know WHY you would want to)
use an electric knife on a DRY UNFROZEN sponge. Works like a charm.

Joe DeRosa
jderosa@attmail.att.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: jjz34245@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Wendell Gee)
Subject: Re: BABY CONVICTS
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 17:25:49 GMT

lso@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu writes:

>How do I take care of baby Convicts?
>I have both eggs and very young fry from different parents in a 45 gal
>community tank.

Well, you dont.

Both time that I had convict babies, they sort of fed themselves on small
particles in the tank.  After a few weeks, they began to eat flake food 
that was small enough for them...

I'm not sure how it will work out with more than one pair of parents though...

-Zim
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: frazier@oahu.cs.ucla.edu (Greg Frazier)
Subject: Re: Wonderlight (Was: Re: laterite question)
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 16:48:20 GMT

raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design) writes:

>In article <1992Apr1.182901.10895@cs.ucla.edu> frazier@oahu.cs.ucla.edu (Greg Frazier) writes:
>>Then it [Wonderlight] can hardly be as efficient as a fluorescent, can it?

>Maybe so, but you have insufficient data since the surface areas of the
>wonderlight and 4 40W flourescents are bound to differ by an order of
>magnitude or so. In other words the flourescents dissipate heat over a
>much larger area thereby constaining the delta T.

It seems the emphasis of the discussion has shifted - I'm not
trying to prove that Wonderlights are less efficient than
fluorescents, I'm just trying to figure out why people are
claiming that they are more efficient.  My above comment was
in reply to <paraphrase> "I wouldn't say that they are cool
burning" (Enkle?).  I have no data to provide for either side
of the argument.
-- 


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Friday, 10 Apr 1992 22:31:55 EDT
From: <SRK8@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: About Brine Shrimp

Could anyone give me the details involving the hatching of brine shrimp. The lo
cal pet shop people told me that it was a real pain to do so, but I have also r
ead in many magazines that it is pretty easy and straightforward. Also, where c
an I get these eggs ?  I recently read one of the FAQs in thes group and there
was this subscription to 'Aquarium Fishmag', I think I should be able to order
these eggs by mail-order. Thankx in advance,  Marco Polo
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu (Erno Pena)
Subject: Assorted Questions .... [F] [M]
Reply-To: erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 18:37:57 GMT

This is going to be a long post. I came up with all these questions over the  
weekend and the pet shop here couldn't answer them.

1. Can you recycle water after a water change? I change 2 gallons of water  
every week in my 30 gallon tank and up til now I just flushed the old water.  
It really seems like a waste though, and I thought why couldn't I just  
recycle that water, clean it up, and put it back. So what I did was buy one  
of the 32 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans, built a home made UG filter with  
power head for the bottom, added some old active gravel to about 8 inches  
deep, filled it up with water, and added an ancient Aquamaster power filter  
with AmmoChips, Carbon, Nitrex, and a load of other chemical media. I've got  
it sitting on my balcony covered running for two days before water changes. I  
added more chemicals to make the water condition more like my tanks', and now  
whenever I change water, I just take two gallons of clean water from this can  
and exchange it with two from the aquarium. I plan on replacing half of the  
can's water every month or so. The great thing about this setup is that the  
pH and hardness and Nitrate levels stay virtually constant at the level where  
I want them. It also conserves water. What do you think?

2. Why don't the aquarium magazines do any equipment testing and evaluation  
like computer magazines? I think this is a feature that is lacking and would  
be very beneficial. Imagine, FAMA during one month comparing twenty of the  
more common light bulbs, and the next month, comparing water pumps, testing  
each model to find the most efficient and inexpensive pump. I hate having to  
guess if I should get an AquaClear 300 or a Whisper #3 power filter. I would  
really like to grab a FAMA and look at the Power Filter tests to find out  
which is more powerful and efficient and filters the water best. The  
magazines now have too many ads and not enough good articles.

3. What are people's thoughts about the book _The_Optimum_Aquarium_? Anyone  
have good reviews? I plant on redoing my plant tank and somepeople  
recommended I read the book.

4. I've got a 30 gallon plant tank that i plan to move into a new 55 gallon.  
I also have 4 Cichlasoma Severum cichlids in another 29 gallon. The Severums  
are about 4 inches long each, and I need to move them into the 55. In the  
past, the Severum were pretty good to the plants in their tank, leaving all  
the Anubias and Crypts alone. Now that they are growing bigger, would they  
behave if I put them in the 55 with all my good plants? Is there anyone out  
there with experience raising Severum?

5. Is there a magazine just for keeping a marine aquarium?

Thanks for any thoughts or responses to these questions.

--

E r n e s t o   F.   B.   P e n a
---------------------------------
erno@uiuc.edu   NeXTmail accepted
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: clogging sponge filters
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 00:50:22 GMT

In article <92Apr8.152521edt.309@smoke.cs.toronto.edu> enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes:
>or it would get clogged and the negative pressure of
>the airlift would cause the sponge to contract from its normal 6-inch
>diameter to more like 3 inches, and the water flow would stop completely.

What the hell are you doing to the damned sponge?!  Did you stick a
powerhead on it or something?  I had the Super Pro get clogged up, but the
only symptoms would be a change from the quiet stream of water and bubbles
from the riser to a loud gurgle with low flow.  But then I use sponge
filters as they were meant to be used -- air-driven.  All these powerhead
solutions only create excessive water currents and clogg your filters.

I bet you have so much dirt wedged deep inside your sponge that you can
never clean it thoroughly.  That's what you get for using a powerhead.

I have in the past cleaned these filters by pushing tap water at full 
50 psi through its hole until the water runs clean.  This probably kills
all bacterial cultures, but I do it as a part of fiter sterilization when
I break down a tank, so I expect to have to re-seed the filter.


Switch to less filthy fish, Robert.  Try neons.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev, at home			....use the header to find the path
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3065 rec.aquaria:3877
From: drake@Autodesk.COM (Dan Drake)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: tubifex(?) in tank
Date: 13 Apr 92 22:28:45 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria
Organization: Autodesk Inc., Sausalito CA, USA
Bcc: drake

oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
> In article <1992Apr12.154201.244@cognet.ucla.edu> peterm@inherit.mbi.ucla.edu (Peter Markiewicz) writes:
> >A friend of mine had what
> >he thought were tubifex but were actually nematerans (ribbon worms).
> >They are very long and red, and are harmless.
> 
> How do you tell them apart?  I have never seen a ribbon worm....

If it's very long for its thickness, it moves slowly, and it acts as if
one end doesn't know which way the other end is going, it's probably a
nemertean.  Tubifex are veritable Rhodes scholars (brilliant and
athletic) compared to nemerteans.

However, I've never heard of fresh-water nemerteans.  Does anybody know
for sure whether there is such a thing?

--
Dan Drake
drake@Autodesk.com
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: tubifex(?) in tank
Date: 14 Apr 92 10:28:41 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

drake@Autodesk.COM (Dan Drake) writes:
>However, I've never heard of fresh-water nemerteans.  Does anybody know
>for sure whether there is such a thing?

Hmmm....  YOu know, they do act quite a bit unlike nemetrans -- they
are very reactive, try to dig into the muck at the first sign of light
of water disturbance, etc.  These are the "black worms" that are raised
in trout and duck ponds, rather than the thin, vile-smelling red
tubifex collected from human sewege.

So if I accept their existance (which I am tempted to because I am lazy),
how do I sift them out of the water change muck to feed them to my other fish 
(most of which do not have a layer of peat on the bottom of their tanks
and the worms will not find any hiding places)?  Is there a simple, easy way
short of repeated washings?
-- 
"... i heard the droning / in the shrine
	     of the sea-monkey / palace of the brine ..." -- Pixies.
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3033 rec.aquaria:3832
From: vortex@guardian (The Biologic Entity)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: help!...goldfish in fishbowl
Keywords: fish torture, early death, naive
Date: 13 Apr 92 03:31:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: wpi.1992Apr13.033100.24277
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute

In article <12492@umd5.umd.edu> kerry@is-next.umd.edu (Kerry Ogata) writes:
>In article <1992Apr10.184050.26647@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:

[whole lot of stuff deleted]

>I just wanted to add if you really are attached to the idea of having a fish
>in a fishbowl, you could get a betta for it.  Just be sure to change the
>water every day.  Then you wouldn't need the equipment.
>

[stuff about goldfish in tanks deleted too]

>-- 
>kerry@is-next.umd.edu or kogata@wam.umd.edu

No matter what, it's still rather cruel to keep bettas in fish bowl.  Just because they CAN survive in them is no reason to make them do so.  After all, I'm sure most of the people on the net can survive in really tiny rooms with bad pollution (like my dorm room), but there's no reason to force your pets to do the
same thing.  The best advice is to totally abolish fishbowls.  Unless you happen to have the time to kill to change the water every hour or so.

Vortex
From: SRK8@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: rearing platties and guppies
Date: 6 Apr 92 08:05:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: psuvm.92097.040518SRK8
Organization: Penn State University

I have a fry platties and guppies, which are in a seperate 10 gal. tank. I am a
lso feeding them some baby food I got at the local store. Is there any thing el
se I could do ?  I am apprehensive because previously I had a fry, but they nev
er seeemed to be growing up . in fact the max. size they got to be was about
1 c.m. offcourse they did not have the luxury of a 10 gal. tank + the baby food
 Any help would be appreciated.  Marco Polo
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3008 rec.aquaria:3801
From: kerry@is-next.umd.edu (Kerry Ogata)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: help!...goldfish in fishbowl
Keywords: fish torture, early death, naive
Date: 10 Apr 92 20:42:41 GMT
Organization: Comp. Sci. Ctr., Univ. of MD, College Park, MD 20742

In article <1992Apr10.184050.26647@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:

>In article <92101.114709GRI101@psuvm.psu.edu> <GRI101@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:

>>I bought a couple of small (1 inch long) goldfish which I plan to keep
>>in a 1/2 gallon glass bowl. I have some gravel at the bottom. At present
>>I have not fixed any filtering system or water aerating system.

{stuff deleted}

>If you want to keep your bowl (something I don't really recommend), then
>please go out and buy one of the small fishbowl sized undergravel filters
>that they make for them.  And of course an air pump and gravel to make it
>work.  I don' have time to explain right now how the UGF works, but if
>you read the FAQ you should understand it.

[lots of sound advice from Paul deleted]


I just wanted to add if you really are attached to the idea of having a fish
in a fishbowl, you could get a betta for it.  Just be sure to change the
water every day.  Then you wouldn't need the equipment.

However, if you are going to keep your two goldfish, it is cruel (IMO) to
keep them in something less than a 10 gallon tank.  The cash outlay for a ten
gallon tank and an ugly but serviceable filter should not be too much.
Just think of it this way:  you will spend a little more in the beginning
but you will save a lot in that you won't have to replace fish that
suffocate in the fishbowl.
-- 
kerry@is-next.umd.edu or kogata@wam.umd.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria