From: mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord)
Subject: Re: N. Face of Gothics
Keywords: Gothics
Organization: BNR, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:14:34 GMT

In article <1jpkpqINN79i@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> cbrown@islesboro.East.Sun.COM writes:
>Anyone "out there" got some first hand info on the Dougal WInter Route on the N. face of Gothics in the Adirondacks?
>
>I'd like to hear about the approach as well as the climb itself.
>
>Also, what's the descent like and how much backtracking/bushwhacking does it require to get back to the previous night's bivvy?
>
>I'm thinking of doing it next month (Feb). How long does it usually take to come into condx?

The approach consists of two phases:  On-trail, and Off-trail.

1.	The On-trail portion is the easy, and LONG, walk into the lean-to
	from Keene, following the Johns Brook trail to the ranger outpost
	(not occupied in winter), and then crossing the brook to take the
	spur trail towards Gothics.  Skis are highly recommended for this,
	and skins on them are my own preference (instead of wax).  This is
	a good long hike, but not difficult to do or route-find.

2.	There is an Adirondak lean-to near the base of the mountain proper,
	that the spur trail passes.  This is the first and only lean-to on
	the spur trail.  Thus finding it is not a problem.  This lean-to is
	the usual base camp (bivy) for doing the climb.  From here, the trail
	continues to the right, eventually ascending Gothics via the summer
	hiking trail, avoiding the North Face altogether.  Thus, from the 
	lean-to, one does not follow the trail when going for the ascent.

3.	The Off-trail portion thus begins at the lean-to.  Best to do it early
	on a cold morning, before the sun thaws the snow crust.  In such 
	conditions, it can be hiked in climbing boots & crampons.  If the snow
	is loose/soft, though, you will wish for snowshoes, "Vermont Tubbs"
	being the premium choice, though anything will do.  The lean-to is
	located at the "base" of the runout gully from the North Face, so 
	route finding at this point consists of trying to follow said gully
	upstream to the face itself.. took us about 2hrs the first time,
	1.5hrs the second time, on Tubbs.  We tended to stray left, which 
	was okay, and thus saw the face to our right when it first came into
	view.

4.	The climb.  "The sun was high in the sky as we made our Alpine Start".
	It's anybody's guess as to the conditions to expect.  Avalanches
	are common, so be wary.  The snow here in the east is just as lethal
	as that in the West when a person is buried.  When we did the route,
	there was 150' of steep and THIN (1"-2") ice at the bottom in the
	center of the face.  This is apparently typical.. most people avoid
	the risk and start up on the left edge of the face.  We took the center.
	After this run-out bit, we then faced a 800' snow slog -- 3-4' deep
	power up the middle.  There are two lines of bushes down the face,
	and we ascended in unison, looping back and forth between them, using
	them for natural running belays -- in case of avalanche.  The top was
	hard frozen snow.. made for a quick last 200' of ascent.  The summit
	itself was a beautiful triangular ridge, with cornices on the opposite
	(south?) side.  In all, a very nice place to observe the sun setting
	on a Sunday evening before a back-to-work-Monday.. with a long walk
	out, and a longer drive home yet to contend with! 

5.	The Descent.  The easy and FUN! part.  Walk along the ridge to the
	right of the face just climbed, and follow the steel cables to the
	hiking trail down.  Remove crampons, stow away axes and snowshoes,
	and SSSSSSLLLLLLIIIIIIDDDDDDDEEEEEE!!!!!!

	800' vertical feet later, stop sliding and resume walking, following
	the trail back the the lean-to.  This is the same trail mentioned 
	earlier, not the self-broken one used to arrive at the face base.

There is a chance I may get to scout out the current conditions this weekend,
depending on energy levels and karma..  if so, I'll post an update.
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