HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M] [R] Live Rock - your recommendations?
Keywords: Live Rock, Reef, Marine
Date: 7 Oct 92 01:25:23 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of California, Davis

All right! I finally am ready to order the live rock for my reef-to-
be. I've got too much lighting, too much filtration, and too much
money in the system, ie, it should just barely be enough! :)
Looking through FAMA, I've found the following places that sell
live rock. I want to get very high quality stuff, probably only
one box of it. So if you reef people could please tell me which 
you recommend (have good experience with)...

1) Carribean Connection
2) Tropical & Marine Paradise
3) Coral Solutions
4) Pisces
5) Dolfin International Import/Export
6) Brantana Aquatics
7) Carribean Creatures
8) Reef Scrapers

Furthermore, some of the above places let you choose where you
want the stuff from (caribbean, indonesia, etc.) Which one is better?
What's the difference?

P.S. I've read the postings about live rock in the past and got
an idea about the different places, but I want to know which
has the best stuff (under $150/box, if possible).

P.P.S. I think Steve Tyree works for these guys or something :)

| David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu              |
| Senior Undergraduate              | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine)   |
| Computer Science and Psychology   |      Money? Who needs money?        |
| University of California at Davis |          I've got fish!             |
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7700 sci.aquaria:1393
From: gbabaeff@sirius.UVic.CA (Gordon Babaeff)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Electronic pH sensors/controllers
Summary: I need to gather some information on these technical wonders.
Date: 1 Oct 92 00:53:48 GMT
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada

I would like to know as much as possible about these gadgets that use
probes to electronically monitor/adjust the water pH,etc.

I need technical details because I want to design and build one for
a project for school.  Is there anyone who can tell me where I might find
a good product description and where I would be able to buy the parts
for a decent price?  I have a recent copy of FAMA, and have found a few
mail order places, but they say very little about the products other than
"yes, we sell them".

Please reply to me via email or to rec.aquaria.

Specifically, I need to know how the electrodes work and how the pH is
actually adjusted.

Thanks,
Gordon.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: anbo@wuee1.wustl.edu (Albrecht Jander)
Subject: Re: Electronic pH sensors/controllers
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis Mo.
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 14:44:25 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.200742.28612@gvl.unisys.com> edd@gvlf4-a.gvl.unisys.com (Ed Dougherty) writes:
>In article <1992Oct1.154626.12023@athena.mit.edu> mar@athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein) writes:
>>There are basically three parts to such a system: the sensing probe, the
>>meter/controller, and a reactor of some kind.
>>
>>The probes are typically glass filled with a solution and a special membrane
>>on the end.  There's an electrode at the tip that picks up the electric
>>
>>The meter is a milli-volt meter that reads 0 to 1000 mV.  The trick here is
>>that it has a very high input impedance, like 10^12 ohms.  Redox is measured
>>directly in mV,
>
>>  pH has to be converted. I forget if the conversion is a simple multiplier
>>  or if it's an exponential scale, but it's something that's easy to do.
>
>
>If anyone has this conversion handy for ph I'd appreciate it, I might give
>it a try building a ph meter.
>
>
>Ed Doc

It is linear with pH.  The multiplier depends on which chemicals are used
in the probe, and also the temperature.  If I remember right, it is typically
in the range of 100-200 mV per pH.  Temperature variations are generlly not
a problem in the aquarium, since that is usually thermostatically controlled
anyway.

Building the pH meter is cheap and easy, but not trivial.  The two biggest
problems you will have to deal with are the *extremely* high output impedence
of the probe, and interference.  The way to overcome the first problem is to
use *extremely++* high input impedence op amps (JFET) on the input side of
your meter.  The way to overcome the second problem is to make sure you are
taking a _differential_ reading.  

You can probably find one of those big books with lots of circuit examples 
in the library.  I have seen simple pH meter examples in them.

Good luck,

Albrecht



---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Peltier was a cool dude!!
From: denise@pprg.eece.unm.edu (Denise J. Richards)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Which filter?
Date: 5 Oct 92 20:21:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.qxdp0gl
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque


First: I am not who the header says I am.  Post or respond via e-mail to:

			boggs@agps.lanl.gov



I have a 55 gallon discus tank.  I had been running with a UGF and an
Whisper 3 external power filter.   A couple of weeks  ago I removed
the UGF hoping to have better luck with plants. Shortly after the
removal of my UGF the  Whisper 3 died.  I am currently running on
a backup filter and am trying to decide what to buy to replace the
Whisper with: another Whisper 3 an Aquaclear 300 or shall I buy a
cannister (Are they quiet?) And if a cannister is the right choice,
which one?  Fluval or Eheim?   I've not heard anything good about
Magnum.  Opinions, please...

--Marsha
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     boggs@agps.lanl.gov (505) 665-6606
Los Alamos National Laboratory, P.O. Box 1663  MS J488  Los Alamos, NM 87545
From: mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Newbie, to the list and to aquariums
Date: 28 Sep 92 13:38:27 GMT
Organization: nasa/gsfc

Sounds like we could use a few more like you... 
And keep up with the cage rattling.

    mark


In article <1992Sep27.121744.2159@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu>, shazam@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu writes:
> 
> Well, when I said I felt silly for being here, I meant because
> everyone here seemed to have much much larger tanks they were asking about
> AND most of the questions seemed to be about saltwater tanks.  I
> thought perhaps those who owned warm water tropical tanks just
> had not said much since I have been reading this list.
> I am new to NEWS, and just did not notice that this was not of
> the hobbyist nature.
> 
> I have been informed however, rather abruptly I might add,
> that this list is of the scientific nature, and not that of the 
> aquarium hobbyist.  I did not mind being told, but I suppose
> that here in the South we are a bit more friendly and relaxed,
> and I did not expect someone to appear to be so rude about it. 
> *smile*  I suppose this could just be his/her/their nature. 
> 
> I am sorry if my posting rattled anyone else's cage! *laugh*
> I will not let it happen again!  *smile*
> 
> Have a nice day.
> 
> Suzanne
> 
>
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Zebra Danio pregnant or?
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:28:47 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu) writes:
>, swollen to twice its old size. Maybe 3*. 

Probably dropsy, a bloat caused by bacterial infection, or an abdominal
blockage.

>so I suspect that this fish is pregnant (are Danios
>livebearers?) or ready to spawn (if not).

Danios are not live bearers and do not swell up very much even when in the 
top spawning mood.

>What do the FW experts recommend? 

Isolate the fish.  There are no reliable cures for either dropsy or
the blockage.
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Single Species Tanks
Date: 5 Oct 92 02:29:20 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

If it matters, I would go with the tiger barbs.  They seem like a much more
interesting fish.

Jon

-- 
Jonathan R. Edwards                                 gt6441c@prism.gatech.edu  
Georgia Institute of Technology
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Wet/Dry
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:28:25 GMT
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec

In article <81_phhj@lynx.unm.edu> jon@apollo.mcl.bdm.com (Jon Humphreys) writes:
>Does anyone know anything about the Biolife 55 Wet/Dry filter?  It's
>a contained trickle filter that sits inside the aquarium.  Does it work?

The only thing I know about it is that in FAMA oct 92 pg 194, in an
article by Knox D. Talley, Jr., he states that the Hagen Biolife won
"Best new product of '92" at the American Pet Products Manufacturers
Assoc.  trade show.  I was given the opportunity to try one by my fish
club, but I didn't want anything that took up room inside my small
(20gal) tank.  

rick
-- 
rick clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) | Ban Handguns.
           (CIS 70272,3270)            |
From: news@brian386.uucp (News Administrator)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Arrowhead Crabs and Luggage
Date: 27 Sep 92 15:15:08 GMT
Organization: McCane Consulting


  Someone may see this topic and go "Oh yeah, well of course!"  Anyway,
when my wife told me, I thought she was hallucinating again.  (She still
claims to have seen my long time missing anemone crab living inside a
medium, generic type of clam that came with my live rock.)  Well back to
my story, last night I was watching my tank when I saw a "flash of white"
under my crab.  Upon closer inspection, I saw that he had opened some kind
of storage compartment on his underside.  The white portion which I
assumed was its stomach seems to consist of many layers of translucent
sheets.  It opens all of them and either cleans them, or is putting
something from its mouth in there.  Then it folds up a layer and starts
again.  What the heck is it doing??  Is this so it can carry a larder for
the tough times, a spare luggage rack?  Is it possibly feeding regurgitated
food to young'uns??


	brian
From: rivan@bnr.ca (Robert Ivan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Seachems de Nitrate
Date: 2 Oct 92 13:43:58 GMT
Reply-To: rivan@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd.


 Has anyone used seachems deNitrate.   i have a high Nitrate
problem which i probably wont naturally be able to deal with.
So Id like to know if this stuff works.  Like lots
of water conditioners i hate to pay for garbage.


Rob
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dave@pacdata.uucp (David Ambrose)
Subject: Re: How to culture Daphnia?
Organization: Steppenwolf's Magic Theater
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 00:01:08 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.112132.1@vaxb.acs.unt.edu> ig30@vaxb.acs.unt.edu writes:
>Could someone let me know how best(the easiest way) to culture Daphnia. In a
>recent FAMA I saw Daphnia Magna cultures for sale - are these a large sized
>Daphnia? I am looking for this or any other easy live food to culture for my
>1.5 inch Julies.
>
	Several people have mentioned feeding daphnia algae (green
water).  I have also successfully fed them yeast.  Just take some bread
yeast from the grocery store,  dissolve in water and add until you can't
see the other side of the tank.  Repeat once or twice a day.  They seem
to thrive on the stuff.


-- 
David Ambrose - Pacific Data Products           UUCP: uunet!pacdata!dave
619/597-3426 				    Internet: dave@pacdata.com

Play it cool,  play it cool,  fifty-fifty fire and ice -- Joni Mitchell
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: gatesmd@gn.ecn.purdue.edu (Matthew D. Gates)
Subject: Re: Brown Algae
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 01:15:41 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.131112.28422@shearson.com> stu@mbsdev24.shearson.com ( Stuart Bernstein ) writes:
>
>  I have a 55 gallon fresh water tank with Amazon Sword plants and
>  6 Cardinal Tetras.  I keep the tank lit from 12-14 hours daily.
>  The plants have developed brown algae.  I rub it off once in a while.
>  What is the cause for this brown algae.  Are the lights on too long ?
>  (Double Strip - Duro-lite 48 W)
>
>  I would appreciate any suggestions ?

From what I have read, "brown algae" is not exactly an algae.  I believe
it consists of many thousands of small diatoms.  In any case, it is
not a result of too much light, but too little light.  There may also
be a connection with the amount of silicates in the water, since the
diatom shells are made of silicon, although I am not completely
sure of this.  I also don't know of any way to test the level of
silicates in the water.  The "cure" is to get more intense lighting.
Your article said that you had a total of 96 watts for a 55 gallon
tank.  Most books I have read suggest that the total wattage be   
three to four times the volume of the tank in gallons.  For your
case that would be between 165 and 220 watts.  

I used to have the same problem in my 20 gallon tank, but I built
a hood that houses four 20 watt bulbs.  No more brown algae!

Hope this helps!  :)

gatesmd@gn.ecn.purdue.edu
Matthew Gates
Undergrad -- Aeronautical/Astronautical Engineering
Purdue University
From: tes0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (THOMAS EDWIN SCHMIDLIN)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: PLECO.NET.CURSE
Date: 1 Oct 92 05:10:52 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <cburns-300992091015@end.chem.indiana.edu>, cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (C
hris Burns) writes:
>
>Stuff deleted
>
>
>> For real?  Actually there's a strange phenomenon that whenever someone mentio
ns
>> their pleco here on the net...within 24 hours that pleco will meet its maker
>> through some bizarre twist of fate.
>>
>> I've personally have this happen to me twice.  I had just bought two plecos (

Totally serious!  I don't know how long he was laying there, but it was really
gross.  Normally I give my fish the old burial at sea, but I just tossed that
one into the garbage can.  It bounced.  Hard as a rock, and tasted like old
socks.  I mean, it LOOKED like it tasted like old socks.
-- 


Tom Schmidlin       DEEP THOUGHTS: By Jack Handey - If God dwells inside
TES0@LEHIGH.EDU         us, like some people say, I sure hope he likes
215-758-0875            enchiladas, cause that's what he's getting.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter)
Subject: Re: New tank and fish deaths
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 19:57:25 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.202052.21166@netcom.com> oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>In article <1992Oct01.175102.100554@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>>I just set up a new 110 gallon tank, let the water sit for a few days,
>>added some ammonia/chlorine/chloromine remover, bought 2 kissing gouramis,
>>2 swordfish, and 4 beuen aires tetras, and put them in the tank.
>>I also added some Cycle.
>
>So you fill the tank with water, don't test to see if your gravel is
>leaching something toxic into the water, did not allow the tank to cycle and

Exactly what would you test for?  What kind of general water analysis kits
would expect the beginner to own?  Enough kits to test for 'toxicity' could cost
hundreds of dollars.

>let the bio filtration establish, did not slowly acclimate the fish to your

I don't know fresh water species all that well and maybe what the store sold him
to cycle with are wrong, but 8 fish in a 110 gallon tank seems about right
to cycle, maybe even a bit light.  Why do you assume the fish were not acclimated?

>water, did not isolate the fish for a few weeks to make sure they are

Isolate?  He was trying to start a tank.  It takes just as long to start that isolation
tank as the one the fish were put in.  Yes he should isolate new fish being added
to an existing system but this was a new tank!

>healthy...  And your fish started dying.
>
>Well, it's ONE way to break in the new tank.  Let the tank break in for 6-8
>weeks, then satrt adding new fish.

How to you expect the tank to 'break in' in 6-8 weeks with nothing in it?

>-- 
>Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path

Sorry Oleg I know you have good info to offer but I think you response was 
a bit strong, It sounds like the guy is trying to do things right and is asking
for constructive advice not flames.

Brian Hunter
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: The prettier the fish, the less hardy
Date: 5 Oct 92 02:41:56 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1992Oct04.212928.140200@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>Does this rumor have a grain of truth?

None at all.

It may be that the less experienced aquarists buy the most flashy fish
they can find without knowing how to maintain a healthy tank and the
fish dies in a very short order.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith)
Subject:  reply to John McCaffrey copper in tank wants to set up reef
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 30 Sep 1992 13:43 EDT  

I tried emailing this but it was returned so I am posting it.

  In article <1992Sep28.221442.26596@btree.uucp>, you write...
  > 
  > 
  >I've got a 40 gal marine fish-only aquarium that I want to convert into
  >a reef tank.  The problem is that about a year and a half ago, I used
  >copper to medicate for Oodinium and I understand that it's very
  >difficult to get out entirely.  I realize now that that was not too
  >bright but we'll just have to chalk that up to experience.
  > 
  >To convert the tank to reef, I intend to move all the fish into my other
  >fish-only tank (55 gal), do a 100% water change and begin adding live
  >rock.  My concern is about the copper that may have leeched into the
  >plexiglass or into the bioballs or DLS material.  The copper used was
  >"Copper Safe."  After the medication, I did a 75% water change followed
  >by 25-30% water changes every month (approximately 13 changes to date).
  > 
  >How can I recover from this?
  > 
  > 
  >Tank info:
  >  40 Gal TruVu Plexiglass tank
  >  Wet/Dry Filter (includes DLS, bioballs, X-Phosphate, X-Nitrate, Chemi-pure
  >    and Protein Skimmer)
  >  Light Canopy (not yet purchased) will probably include 1 Metal Halide
  >    and two Actinic flourescents  (Side note: Can I get away with just 
  >    some VHO "Daylight" flourescents and an Actinic or two?  There sure 
  >    would be alot less heat to deal with.)
  > 
  > 
  >John McCaffrey                          Internet: btree!johnmc@ucsd.edu 
  >Brooktree Corporation                   UUCP: ...ucsd!btree!johnmc
  >San Diego, CA  

  Take EVERYTHING out including the DLS and start out with a high quality live
  rock and a BIG protein skimmer.  Have the skimmer set up and running before
  ordering or purchasing your live rock.  Let the live rock cycle before adding
  any corals or fish to the tank.  After the rock cycles (around 3 weeks) turn
  up the lights and add a lot of turbo snails (around 1 per gallon) of the Astrea
  snails or 1 per five gallons of the @turbo grazer type snails.  Two VHO lights
  will be O.K. for many corals 4 would be better.

  If you use VHO's get electronic ballasts.  They put out way less heat than
  conventional tar ballasts.


  Greg Smith

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Mark White <mwhite@cssc-melb.tansu.com.au>
Subject: Re: Wet/Dry
Organization: The meaning of life.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 07:38:36 GMT

In article <81_phhj@lynx.unm.edu> Jon Humphreys, jon@apollo.mcl.bdm.com
writes:
>Does anyone know anything about the Biolife 55 Wet/Dry filter? 

I have been using a Biolife for the past 6 months in a 4 foot by 2 foot
tank and have found it to be very good. The only complaint I have is that
the activated carbon part of the filter become clogged to quickly (only
last approx. 1 week).

Mark White.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: news@news.iastate.edu (USENET News System)
Subject: Re: piranhas -info needed
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
     I owned a piranha for over 10 years.  He grew to be 12 inches
     My advice is if you are prepared for the the excitement to
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 23:34:11 GMT

This article was probably generated by a buggy news reader.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Live plants - What kind!? *smile*
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 00:17:06 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <Bv77z4.9M9@news.cso.uiuc.edu> ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>
>I recently bought some hornwort (found it).  It was relatively
>unexpensive, and looks like it has *Tons* of surface area.  Now for my
>question, The tips of some of the hornwort is brown.  It feels different
>than the green stuff too.  So, should I prune the brown stuff off, or
>should I leave it on, or is it in my discretion.

Your discretion.  Hornwort will do this if it gets more light then it is
used too.

>Lighting:  I have a 29 with a single 24" flourscent tube.  Can I get by
>with just putting in a 24" grow tube?  If so, which type is best?  My
>phar-mor doesn't seem to be selling everything at super-low prices, but
>they seem to match mail-order for grow-lights.

Hornwort is not a picky plant in regard to light.  I use soft white
bulbs.  I have too thin the hornwart about once a month or I can't
find the fish.

>Mostly I want this plant to suck up nitrates, and provide a place for
>fry to hide.  

>Thanks
>Frank Fujita

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: patton@phy.uab.edu (David Patton)
Subject: Re: Pl*co Food Part 2
Reply-To: patton@phy.uab.edu
Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 23:35:34 GMT

Pl*cos are nocturnal, so try feeding the pellets at night after turning off
the lights. That way the other fish are likely to leave it alone and the 
pl*co will get some nourishment.


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Cycling    
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 16:35:26 GMT

cliff (cliff@watson.ibm.com) wrote:
: Regarding my previous post about fish dying in an new tank:
: Everyone keeps saying "C'mon Cliff, don't you know about
: cycling and the nitrogen cycle?" 
: 
: Of course I know, but I'm wondering, from a biochemical standpoint, how
: the build up of toxic chemicals due to insufficent break-down
: of waste by bacteria could have an effect on a huge tank after two days?

If you knew, why were you doing it?  You are correct, it does
seem unlikely that you had a big ammonia buildup in just two
days - it could have been any number of other problems, like
heavily chloramine'd tapwater (novaqua does nothing about
that).  But I'll tell you, Cliff, it's just like a digital
lab - if you ask the TA for help, he's going to point to the
obvious problem and then go away, even if that isn't the bug
your trying to deal with.  Cycle the tank.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier