HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dave@hp1.holl.com (David Vrona)
Subject: Duplicating Samuel Adams
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:03:33 GMT
Organization: Hollister Incorporated,  Libertyville, IL

Hi all,

I just started homebrewing and I'm very interested in duplicated Samuel Adams
Lager (one of my favorites).

Anybody have a recipie?

thanks,

dave
-- 
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 \ David Vrona N9QNZ  708.680.2829   Internet:  dave@hp1.holl.com            /
 / Hollister Incorporated            UUCP: {well connected}!ddsw1!hp1!dave   \
 \ 2000 Hollister Drive              Opinions expressed are my own and not   /
 / Libertyville, IL  60048-3781      those of Hollister Incorporated.        \
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: sandy@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Sandy Knight)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 16:51:18 GMT
Subject: $10.95 Carbouys
Organization: the HP Mtn.View Resp. Cntr.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

Some time back I replied to a note mentioning a place that has carbouys for
$10.95 for a 5 gallon carbouy. I had so many requests for the address that I 
decided to post it. The place selling them is:

Bristol Pure water. (408) 270-8485. The person to speak to is Richard.

I have no affiliation with this store, I was just happy to score some cheap
carbouys. 
Sandy.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: danp@sabre.bellcore.com (Daniel Pomplun)
Subject: Re: Long Melomel Fermentation.
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 13:29:43 GMT

>I tried making the mead in "New Complete Joy etc" and also added some
>fruit per the Apricot-Nectarine Melomel in Fall 92 Zymurgy. The recipe 
>calls for 14 grams of dried Pris de Mousse Champagne yeast. I rehydrated
>the yeast and pitched it at about 64 degrees. The original gravity was
>1.128. After about a week of furious fermenting in my primary fermenter
>(glass carbouy) I racked the beer into a secondary fermenter. I tasted a
>sample of the melomel at this point and it was great. At this point the 
>melomel has been in the secondary fermenter for almost 4 weeks and it is 
>still fermenting! It has showed signs of slowing down over the past day or
>two, but I wonder if this is normal?

3 weeks to 6 months can be considered normal.  A lot depends upon the
exact ingredient list.

>The other question that I have is should I attempt to carbonate the Melomel
>or is it better served with no carbonation. I do not have a kegging setup
>so if I was to carbonate the Melomel would I still use some priming sugar?

At OG 1.128, your yeast might not be able to run to completion.  If your
FG is about 1.020 or higher, don't bother priming.  And be sure that
the FG is stable over a 2 to 3 month period of time before bottling.
Sweet Meads are notorious for slowly fermenting even though they're clear.

-- 
Daniel Pomplun, Bellcore, danp@sabre.bellcore.com
Phone:  (908) 758-2740  Fax: (908) 758-4268
331 Newman Springs Rd, Red Bank, NJ 07701-7020,  MS: NVC-1E246
From: wpns@miki.pictel.com (Willie Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Homemade Brewing Equipment
Date: 6 Nov 92 18:37:57 GMT
Organization: PictureTel Corporation


See "carboy incubator" thread for our temperature controlled fermenter.

I use a sanitized airstone and an aquarium pump with a filter to
aerate the wort.  Seems to work pretty well, though rinsing the bleach
out of the airstone can use up a lot of distilled water.  [If you saw
my water you'd understand why we use distilled].

Willie Smith
wpns@pictel.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: andy rogers <rogers@ial3.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Color guidelines
X-Xxdate: Thu, 12 Nov 92 22:46:46 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Engineering
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 22:46:51 GMT

In article <721209644.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP> Jeffrey Jackson,
Jeffrey.Jackson@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org writes:
>Anyone know of any guidelines for determining the color rating of a homebrew?
 I
>have a formula for determining color based on ingredients, with the color
>measured in SRM.  How can I be sure my final product is the right color?  A
>recent pale ale was the color of an old penny.  I called it a porter and it
>tasted good anyway.  But I would like to know the color rating of the beers I
>brew.  Is there any kind of chart or card available that can be compared to
the
>finished beer to determine color?  I have my doubts that the recipe formula
for
>SRM is very accurate.  Any experience or comments?

we use the hundred watt light bulb test for stout. pour a bottle into a
regular pub pint glass, the tapered shape heavy glass type or something nearly
equivalent. hold that filled glass in between your eyes and a bare 100 Watt
light bulb. if you can see any glow from the light directly through the beer,
it isn't stout.

andy
----
From: halpin@vax.oxford.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: cleaning wort chillers
Date: 12 Nov 92 11:18:03 GMT
Organization: Oxford University VAX 6620

In article <1drpivINN6c0@darkstar.UCSC.EDU>, wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu (Robert
Frank Dougherty) writes about boiling vs. baking a copper immersion chiller:

> Tainting from the copper was my concern.  That's why I bake mine.  I don't
> know enough chemistry to be sure that any copper gets into the beer, but
> I try to keep beer-copper contact to a minimum, just to be sure.
> 
> -Bob Dougherty
> wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu

English brewers almost always boil in a copper kettle (a "copper" _is_ a
kettle), and many ferment their ales in open, copper-lined vats. 

Somehow, I don't think beer-copper contact is a problem.

Cheers,

Brendan

Brendan Halpin                    Email: HALPIN@VAX.OXFORD.AC.UK
Nuffield College                  Phone: +44 865 278642 (work)
Oxford OX1 1NF                                   726758 (home)
United Kingdom                    PGP 2.0 key on request
From: sandy@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Sandy Knight)
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 00:57:40 GMT
Subject: Long Melomel Fermentation.
Organization: the HP Mtn.View Resp. Cntr.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing

I tried making the mead in "New Complete Joy etc" and also added some
fruit per the Apricot-Nectarine Melomel in Fall 92 Zymurgy. The recipe 
calls for 14 grams of dried Pris de Mousse Champagne yeast. I rehydrated
the yeast and pitched it at about 64 degrees. The original gravity was
1.128. After about a week of furious fermenting in my primary fermenter
(glass carbouy) I racked the beer into a secondary fermenter. I tasted a
sample of the melomel at this point and it was great. At this point the 
melomel has been in the secondary fermenter for almost 4 weeks and it is 
still fermenting! It has showed signs of slowing down over the past day or
two, but I wonder if this is normal?

The other question that I have is should I attempt to carbonate the Melomel
or is it better served with no carbonation. I do not have a kegging setup
so if I was to carbonate the Melomel would I still use some priming sugar?

Thanks for the advice!

Sandy.

Sandy Knight (sandy@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com)

------------- OR ---------------------
 
Sandy Knight (sandy@hpwrc04.mayfield.hp.com)

"That's not a palindrome, The palindrome of Bolton would be Notlob. 
It don't work."     Monty Python.
From: dhholscl@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (David Holsclaw)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Newbie Recipe Question
Summary: Is this recipe okay??
Keywords: weizen bock recipe help
Date: 12 Nov 92 14:48:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: rs6000.1992Nov12.144832.23689
Organization: Illinois State University


Help o' brewgods of the net.......

I am trying to brew my first weizen this weekend and am trying to make sure it
turns out okay.  To start of I am aiming for something like an Erdinger
weizenbock beer.

I am going to take the guidelines from TNCJOHB for brewing a weizen:

    4 lbs. barley malt extract
    3 lbs. wheat malt extract
    1 oz. Hallertauer hops
    liquid wheat yeast

and then add the specialty grains from the bock guidelines

    1/2 lb. Crystal
    1/2 lb. Chocolate

Will it work?  Will I get what I think I'm going to?

If anyone has any experience or recipes (partial mash) for this style I would
be greatly appreciative of any advice you could provide.

-- 
	**********************************************************************

	David H. Holsclaw			Illinois State University
						Applied Computer Science Dept.
From: emw@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: EKU Hefeweizen, "rope?"
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:08:54 +1100
Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia

I have recently acquired a bottle of EKU Hefeweizen or Hefeweisse, I'm not sure
which.  On the label it says Flaschenga"rung, which means bottle fermentation,
and sure enough there's a yeast deposit at the bottom of the bottle.  Now, I
know that some German breweries use a lager yeast for the Flaschenga"rung and
some use the yeast that the beer was actually fermented with.  I'm interested
in trying to use this yeast, regardless of what kind it is, but does anyone
know what the EKU brewery actually does?

A second question.  I recently brewed from a can of Coopers Real Ale, and
instead of using the dried yeast provided I used some yeast I had cultured
from a bottle of Coopers Sparkling Ale.  I've been culturing yeast from bottles
of Coopers Sparkling Ale for almost a year and it works very well.  Anyway, with
this batch I got lazy and let it sit for a couple of weeks before bottling.  I
also had not racked it into a secondary fermenter, so it was sitting on the
primary yeast.  A day before I bottled it I had a quick peek at the surface (I
ferment in 25 liter plastic buckets with an airtight lid and an airlock) and it
looked fine.  The next day when I went to bottle it there was a clump of stuff
floating on the top which looked like string, except it was brown.  The surface
was also beginning to look a bit cloudy.  I went ahead and bottled, and some
bottles had developed this stringy sort of stuff by the next day and other
bottles had not.  Anyone know what this is?  Miller refers to a contamination he
calls "rope", which he says is usually a lactobacillic infection although
sometimes an acetic acid infection.  Is that what this probably is?  Could it
be a yeast mutation?  Usually the Coopers yeast sinks to the bottom and stays
there.  I've never seen clumps of it floating on the top after fermentation had
ceased.  I'm not panicking, and I intend to wait and see how the beer turns out
before I do anything about it, but I would be interested in knowing if anyone
else has had this happen, if anyone knows what it is and if anyone knows what
effect it will have on the finished product.

Thanks.

Monty Wilkinson
German Studies, Monash University
Clayton, Victoria, Australia
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: canderso@nyx.cs.du.edu (Chuck Anderson)
Subject: Re: transporting homebrew
Reply-To: canderso@nyx.UUCP (Chuck Anderson)
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 92 02:42:09 GMT

> smiller@jekyll.eng.uci.edu (Scott Miller) writes:
>
>I'm planning to take a few cases of homebrew back east for the holidays and
>would like advice on the best method to transport. Things such as packaging
>and even the legality of transporting hb would be helpful. (i will be flying).

A friend of mine has twice flown home (Chicago) from here (Boulder/Denver)
carrying a case of my better brew.  Nobody asked any questions.  They
can't even see it in the xray machine.

Two cases is kinda heavy!

--
  *************************************************************************
     Chuck Anderson                uucp    :         uunet!nyx!canderso
     Boulder, Co. (303) 494-6278   internet:         canderso@nyx.cs.du.edu
  *************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: lutzen@physics.umr.edu (Karl Lutzen)
Subject: The Cat's Meow 2 - Updated Text version
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 19:56:00 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri - Rolla

For all of you fine folks that have been waiting for the plain text
version of the updated Cat's Meow 2, it was finally completed over the
weekend.  The file has been uploaded to sierra.stanford.edu and is
available for anonymous ftp under /pub/homebrew/recipe-book/cats_meow_ed2.

For those who need to use the listserver they can send a message to
listserv@sierra.stanford.edu with

    get homebrew recipe-book/cats_meow_ed2

as the body of the message.

Due to an unfortunate oversight with the original CM2 text version, there
was no easy way to provide update files as with the PostScript version.
Discovering this, I bit the bullet and completely re-formatted the whole
kit-and-kaboodle.  This time the page numbers are formatted "chapter-
page", so in the future simple update files are all that is required.

I am very sorry for the delay in getting this file finished as problems
have abounded. About a third of the way into the job, my computer
glitched and started to eat the data on the hard drives, and I lost
everything.  (backups? what backups?)  At least it's done and I have
seen to it that this problem will not occur again.  (ordered a tape drive!)

Enjoy, one and all...

=========================================================================
Karl Lutzen                                        lutzen@physics.umr.edu
Physics Dept.
University of Missouri Rolla
From: wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu (Robert Frank Dougherty)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Foam in bottles
Date: 10 Nov 1992 16:38:50 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu


In article <1992Nov10.070400.19571@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> pieper@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (John Pieper) writes:
>Sorry if this is an FAQ, but is it normal for beer to foam in the bottle
>when bottling?  This happened with the two batches I've made so far.
>. . . . . . Is this
>caused by siphoning too fast or is it inevitable?
>
>The first batch turned out just fine, BTW (the second is still aging).
>-- 
>John Pieper                         pieper@ucsu.colorado.edu
>Dept. of Physics                   "Any deviation will result
>University of Colorado at Boulder   in termination" -- the Mgt.

I usually get foam in my bottles when filling them.  I use a stiff tube
with one of those little push--to-turn-on-flow valves on the end.  You could
try to minimize the foaming by filling with less pressure (eg., if you use a
siphon, keep the bottle just slightly below the beer level.)  I don't 
worry about it.  I fill my bottles to the rim; so if they are too foamy,
I let them sit a minute and then top them off.

-Bob Dougherty
wolfgang@cats.ucsc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc)
Subject: yeast culturing
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 21:09:13 GMT

I just got a decent (I think) microscope for free, and I am wanting to
use it for yeast culturing and infection identification. Can anyone
recommend some books that would provide me with the necessary procedures
and explain the use of the microscope? What magnification levels do the
net.experts usually use?

Thanks,
Tom
From: eggertj@moses.atc.ll.mit.edu (Jim Eggert x6127 g41)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Whoops!  Sulphite solution fell into secondary
Date: 8 Nov 92 19:34:34 GMT
Reply-To: eggertj@atc.ll.mit.edu
Organization: MIT Lincoln Lab - Group 41

In article <1992Nov5.230843.13579@mprgate.mpr.ca> mcvey@mpr.ca (Iain McVey) writes:

> I just moved my first batch from the primary to the secondary, and as
> I attached the airlock, I am pretty sure, some of the sulphite
> solution leaked into the carboy with the beer.  Is this a (big)
> problem?  Please tell me I haven't screwed up already.

I did something similar, only worse, a couple of years ago.  Some of
the sulphite solution fell into my primary fermenter just after I
pitched the yeast.  I couldn't bear to throw it away, so I let it
ferment and bottled as normal.  The batch turned out to be undrinkable
for months, having a very bad metallic taste.  I just let it sit,
though, and eventually it became slightly potable.  (Or maybe my
tastebuds were finally beat into submission.)

It probably depends on how much sulphite you spilled into the beer.

--
=Jim  eggertj@atc.ll.mit.edu (Jim Eggert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: shaver@convex.com (Dave Shaver)
Subject: Re: cats_meow?
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 16:40:40 GMT
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corp, MPP System Software, Richardson, TX
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Clarkkent) writes:
>How does one print out postscript files consistenly?
>I have no problem uncompressing, printing out the 
>postscript version of cats_meow_v2, but I can't get the
>cover to print out, as well as a couple other .ps titles.

The Cat's Meow cover includes a "happily drinking cat."  This cat is
rendered via a huge bitmap contained within the PostScript file.  It
could be that this large bitmap exhausts the memory in your printer.
Try downloading the Adobe error handler first or removing the bitmap
from the PostScript.

/\  Dave Shaver
\\  CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, TX
\/  Internet: shaver@convex.com    UUCP:  uunet!convex!shaver
From: bgunzy@iastate.edu (Bob Gunzenhauser)
Subject: Corn sugar?
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 17:03:49 GMT

I just purchased a Munton and Fison Premium kit and found out too late that
it calls for spraymalt.  I don't have any and I really don't want to pay
the extra amount for it.  Would it be possible to add corn sugar instead of
the spraymalt?  What other sugars could I use?  Thanks!

Bob Gunzenhauser
Ag Systems Technology
Iowa State University
bgunzy@iastate.edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: malouf@leland.Stanford.EDU (Rob Malouf)
Subject: Re: MOLDY BEER!!!!
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 92 23:42:09 GMT

In article <1992Nov3.170823.24385@mtu.edu> ctschmid@mtu.edu (Schmidt) writes:
>Help!  
>
>What to do?  Should we try to ride it out, or reboil and add new yeast? (or
>is the latter not an option)

I would ride it out.  Sometimes the first hints of kraeusen look a little like
mold growing on the top of the beer.  Unless you need the carboy for something
else, you don't really have anything to lose by letting it ferment out.

Rob Malouf
malouf@csli.stanford.edu

-- 
Rob Malouf
malouf@csli.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rwalters@nyx.cs.du.edu (Russell Walters)
Subject: Walters' Pub
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix @ U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 02:26:41 GMT


Hope this is relevant enough to be posted in this forum...!
I recently got some advertisements in the mail regarding clothing with my
"family crest" on them. One shirt advertised "Walters' Pub" or the like,
and had the crest, with "York, England" emblazoned below. So.. is there
really a "Walters' Pub" in York, or was the whole thing just a marketing
fabrication to sell shirts? 
so, the crest was blue, with a white chevron dividing three anvil-looking
things. Pleasdirect me to the appropriate forum if there is a better one!

Thanks!

Russell
From: robinson@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Priming with Molasses
Date: 13 Nov 92 12:42:26 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Since I recently had some experience with this I thought I would pass it 
along.  I recently brewed a batch of Old Peculiar (as per Dave Line's 
recipie) and it turned out quite nicely.  Feeling that recipies are 
guidelines as opposed to immutable laws, I primed with more molasses than 
the recipie calls for.  The recipie calls for 3 oz, so of course, I used 
3/4 of a cup (1 cup = 8 oz) or slightly more than twice what was suggested. 

Fortunately I only filled 4 glass bottles with the brew, the rest were PET 
bottles.  I popped the cap on one of my Grolsh style bottles and the only 
thing that kept the cap from rocketing through the roof and killing on of 
the other occupants of the house was the metal that attaches it to the 
bottle. :)

The result is a brew that produces so much head that I can write my name in 
the glass about 30 minutes later.

Lesson:  Next time use less molasses!
-- 
John Robinson                  Only criminals, tyrants, and cowards have
robinson@ac.dal.ca                 reason to fear the armed, honest citizen.
DOD #0069
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mac@ur.utk.edu (Richard J. McDougald)
Subject: OLD BEER CANS !! (periodic posting)
Organization: University of Tennessee 
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 21:54:41 GMT

I have about 1500 straight steel, crimp steel, and aluminum cans I would
like to trade for a much lesser number of old cans in decent shape...
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Mac McDougald                   *
 The Photography Center          *   Any opinions expressed herein 
 Rm. 91 Comm. Bldg.              *   are not necessarily (actually,
 Univ. of Tenn. Knoxville 37916  *   are almost CERTAINLY NOT) those
 mac@ur.utk.edu                  *   of The University of Tennessee. 
 mac@utkvx.bitnet                *      
 (615-974-3449)                  *   "Things are more like they are now     
 (615-974-6435) FAX              *    than they've ever been before."
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: mk@aisb.ed.ac.uk (Michael Keightley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: How long does yeast last in a fridge?
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:04:39 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: /home/eagle3/mk/.organization

I have just collected a quantity of yeast from my local brewery
(Caledonian Brewery Co).  I was wondering how long it will keep in the
fridge?  Would it be a good idea to mix some SO2 solution into it to
preserve it?
--
Michael Keightley                       | Dept. of Artificial Intelligence
JANET: mk@aisb.ed.ac.uk                 | 80 South Bridge
UUCP:  ..!uunet!mcsun!ukc!aisb!mk       | University of Edinburgh
ARPA:  mk%ed.aisb@nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    | Edinburgh EH1 1HN.  Scotland
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: grain crushing
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:21:38 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

I just picked up my "new" Corona that I swapped for an old MALTMILL and
am hoping someone can tell me how to grind corn with it.  I was impressed
with the way it is built but not with the way it grinds corn.

I had to run it through twice to get a fine enough grind and that still
is not fine enough to make flour.  I also learned why the handle is so
bloody long.  I just about tip over the table when it is sent for a fine
grind.  The mounting shoe that sets on the table is pathetically small.

I don't doubt that one can "crush" malt with it but I am still waiting for
someone to point out how it can possibly be better than a roller mill.

js
From: scott@sps.pgh.pa.us (Scott Benton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Botulism
Date: 4 Nov 92 04:06:01 GMT
Organization: SPS ACAD BBS, (412) 487-3637

ctownsend@atlas.nafb.trw.com writes:

> Just as another data point, I thought I would mention that we (as new parents
> were told (by the hospital literature, I believe) NOT feed any honey to the
> infant until 1 year old, due to the risk of BOTULISM.  Presumably they're
> more sensitve when young (kids); However this does indicate that botulism IS
> present in honey.  I'll try to nail down the source of this allegation.
> 
> 	CBT

We ran across this as well.  As I recall, the danger was not so much that 
the baby would get botulism, but that there was some correlation with 
SIDS and honey consumption.  I'd keep the fermented stuff away from 
junior for the first 18 months.

....S

--
scott@sps.pgh.pa.us (Scott Benton)
WESPAC Waffle BBS -- 412 487 3637
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing