HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: worth@acuson.com (Douglas Worth)
Subject: Hardwood Floor repair
Keywords: hardwood floors
Organization: Acuson; Mountain View, California
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:50:16 GMT

This past weekend we finally took the Christmas tree out and
noticed a lump in the floor. Furthur investigation by pulling
the carpet back showed that the garbage bag under the tree stand
did not keep some spilled water out of the carpet. We decided that
since it would take a while for the floor too dry that we might as
well pull up all of the carpet and enjoy the hardwood.

Here are my questions:

- One of the previous owners decided that they did not like part of 
the hardwood floor and glued linoleum (sp?) down to it. What would be
the best way to get it off?

- In the water damaged part one of the boards is split length wise
for about 16". We put as much weight (I knew there was a reason to
keep all of those text books) as we could on the other parts. We are
expecting to replace some of the boards in this section. The floor is
2" oak strip and I do not think that it is tongue and groove because
there is lots of nails in it. Is it possible to do patch work like this
or are we crazy? After we repair the damaged section we are planning to 
sand and refinish it. My boss recently did his so I do have someone with
some experience who can help.  

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
-- 
x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x
Doug Worth   --  worth@acuson.com (worth@sono.sun.com, ..!sun!sono!worth)
                 415-694-5653
From: kam@apollo.HP.COM (Keith Marchington)
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Reply-To: kam@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com
Organization: UTD-CV Corvallis, OR
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:53:02 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.204107.16467@cbnews.cb.att.com>, jrm@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.r.miller) writes:
|> > 
|> As a followup, does any know the differances between Delta's Contractor's
|> saw, cabinet saw and Unisaw? The cabinet saw looks a lot like a Unisaw --
|> I just wonder if it is the same inside.
|> 
|> 			John Miller


One poster mentioned, but I have not confirmed it, that the Cabinet
saw is a contractor saw mechanism (trunions, arbor, single belt drive)
in a "Unisaw -like box."  And it has a 2hp 220v motor.

Keith Marchington
From: ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 22 Jan 93 23:57:59 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:

>In article <lltbt2INN6se@news.bbn.com>, ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch) writes:
>> 
>> rlz@svl.cdc.com (Robert L Zalusky) writes:
>> 

>> What is a tool girl?
>> 
>> Debbie Deutsch
>> 
>> 

>He probably means one of the ladies on the "Rigid" pipe tools calendar
>wearing her quaint little plumber's costume.  Either my experience of
>plumbers and pipefitters is small, or Rigid has found some very unusual
>plumbers to pose for their calendar.  Maybe more woodworkers from the
>distaff side will render that form of advertising less effective.  In the
>meantime, it's nice to have you in the group.

>Gary

Thank you!  I've been following this newsgroup for a couple of years
now.  Sometimes I even post something about woodworking! :-) IMHO,
rec.woodworking is one of the best groups on the net, with an
incredible number of helpful, enthusiastic members and an excellent
signal-to-noise ratio.

Cheers,

Debbie
From: mvrjl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (robert.j.lansing)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:56:57 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


I'm working on a number of items.  The major project is a
set of bunk beds that several people gave me input on.
I also have a few toy banks (with musical movements) that
only need the plastic covers to be cut for completion.
(April birthday deadlines)  I'm also starting on making
a few toy periscopes.

-Bob Lansing
From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1993 22:19:45 GMT
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin) writes:

> In article <1993Jan19.003840.6872@intellistor.com>, grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun) writes:
> > In <64770037@hpcss01.cup.hp.com> markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams) writes:
> > 
> > >As near as I can tell, the cabinet saw is a contractors mechanism in 
> > >an enclosed stand....  
> > 
> > plus a 2hp motor instead of 1.5 hp, plus a nice magnetic switch instead of a teeny
> > little toggle switch,
> 
> Hmm -- has anyone retrofitted a magnetic switch to a contractor's saw?

	Yes, I bought a contactor, overload relay and transformer from
Herbach and Redeman. Also got some nice Start/Stop button switches
from Granger. HandR have some really inexpensive stuff. I just bought
another set to hook up to the dust collector. I'll make it so opening
a blast gate turns on the collector. Just wait until the power goes
out for 10 seconds while you are doing a balancing act on your table
saw. With the mag switch, the saw will stay off when power returns.
Also, I put a Start/Stop switch on both sides of the blade, and right
up front, just under the fence. Much easier to reach.

HandR 1-800-848-8001

					-Shaw

> I'd really love one, especially after my experience  the other day --
> the motor stalled when a kerf closed, and -- after swiping and missing
> at that tiny toggle switch, I hit my safety switch on the wall.  Easier
> to find, no chance of missing it, and -- given where it, the wood, and
> I were located -- no chance of the wood kicking back *at me* while I
> was moving.
> 
> I need *something* that's easier to turn off -- and if I don't find
> something soon, I'll follow a hint from (I think) FWW and glue a big
> dowel stick to the saw's facocteh toggle switch.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: daniel@osefs1.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com (Daniel Sedergren 7820)
Subject: Re: Drafting software for the shop
Organization: Operational Support Engineering 78-20
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 22:40:33 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.191125.1767@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> fszeman@typhoon.lerc.nasa.gov (Pat Zeman) writes:

>Hi, 
>  I'm looking for a general purpose drafting program for a 486 machine.
>I wish to use it mainly for my woodworking projects.  Therefore, I
>believe that drawing programs are to simple (no drafting tools) and
>CAD programs are too big and expensive for simple shop use.  Some
>software companies also misname their programs, using the title 
>CAD, a buzz word.

>   What if anything do you use, and what do you like and dislike about
>it?

>Paul

>"You are not alone in your head and they are not all your friends."
>                                                           A. Issarni

Over the last few years I have tried several programs, and have settled on a 
program from Autodesk, the makers of AutoCad, called AutoSketch.

Among the programs I tried were AutoCad - Way too much power for generating 
shop drawings at the price $2300+, and a difficult program to master.

TurboCad - Good basic program, priced right, but it's from England, and is 
designed for metric measurements, and uses a lot of English terms, i.e. 
draughting, etc.. Not to degrade the English, but in my shop everything is 
still measured in inches and feet.

AutoSketch - Priced under $200, with pleanty of power.  The program was easy 
to install, the manuals are adequate, and third party manuals are 
available.  Features include pull down menus, scroll bars, a variety of 
drawing tools, pattern fills, associative dimensioning when you strech or 
scale an object, automatic fillets and chamfers, ten layers, etc..  I have 
used AutoSketch on 286 machines with and without co-processors, and with 
and without expanded/extended memory.  Works best with the co-processor and 
memory, but is usable without.  Redraw time suffers without.

To take advantage of any of these programs for generating shop drawings, 
you need to have access to a plotter.  While the programs support a 
variety of printers, you are limited to relatively small objects if you 
intend to generate full scale drawings (typically 7.5" X 10").  


Dan Sedergren                       When you do more than your fair share   
amaziah@cup.portal.com              of the work, you will be given more     
DANIEL@osefs1.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com than your fair share of the work to do. 

DISCLAIMER: I know they're not much, but they're all mine.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patlam@microsoft.com (Patrick Lammers)
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 25 Jan 93 17:15:10 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corporation

I must admit that I thought this was a silly thread but it's been
fun reading about the projects that others are working on.

My turn:  Since I am just getting into this hobby, I decided my 
first "real" project should be a workbench.  It is based loosely
on the one in WOOD Magazine's Idea Shop article and on Norm's 
bench (in one of his NYW books - can't remember which one).
It will use an old solid-core door for the top which will be
topped by tempered hardboard.

Question:  Wood magazine recommends giving the bench an oil finish.
Does this seem right?  Would you apply any sort of finish over the
hardboard?  Since this is definitely not my dream bench (my next one 
will be :-) I am tempted to leave th whole thing unfinished.  What
sorts of finishes have others used on a workbench?

Thanks!
Pat

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: <Healy@space50.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: hardwood floor repair
Reply-To: <Healy@space50.nrl.navy.mil>
Organization: Naval Research Laboratory
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:30:43 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.010500.17955@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
> 
> Now put the tongue of the new board in place, and drop the other end down.
> You might want to glue this board in; otherwise, use finishing nails,
> countersink them, and fill the holes.
> 
> Before cutting, make *absolutely sure* that there is a subfloor (cause
> that's all that will hold this thing together. One of my rooms is carpeted
> because there's a broken board in the middle and there's no subfloor.
> 

Why is subflooring necessary?  Can't one nail it to the joists like
the original board?  Basically I don't see the difference between 
the original board and the replacement except the latter is missing
the bottom of the groove, and it doesn't seem like subflooring would
make any difference.  Or am I missing something?

Liam Healy
From: echi@cisco.com (Eric P. Chi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: How do I start with $500?
Date: 22 Jan 1993 22:51:09 GMT
Organization: cisco Systems, Inc., Menlo Park, Ca.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: mead.cisco.com

Hi,
	I plan to setup some equipments to build some bookshelf kind thing
for my study room and garage. I am wondering whether I should buy a table
saw or radial saw? Or do I really need those fancy equipments? I already
own a circular saw but I can hardly cut a straight line with it.
	Also if is there brand/model you can recommend? My budget is ~$500.

	Thanks,

Eric.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: And now, more "Hometime" news
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 09:09:03 GMT
 <STEVEO.93Jan18140800@custard.think.com> <1993Jan19.014502.16708@informix.com>
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
>home center for the 3 inch flashing (or whatever) and the delivery guy
>gives her this spiel of "well the inch and a half is what everyone uses -
>why do you want the 3 inch?"  She retorts "Look, do you have the stuff or
>not?"  She should have added "bozo!".  Now I realize that this was all
>scripted, but I think it well represents the situation many DIYers
>encounter with know-it-all home center types.  I'd imagine women would
>fare a bit worse that we men in this regard.

I am often completely ignored when I am looking at power tools and
other construction type stuff.  I hate it.

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager living
in silicon valley.  If you know of an opportunity, please
let me know!


From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 14:55:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: And now, more 'Hometime' news
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 10:51:42 EST
From: <RSASMC@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject:    Plexiglas - for Derek

  Sorry about not e-mailing this to you. I'm a guinea pig for a new operating
system version and I haven't figured out how the mailer works yet!

  To answer your question: No I'm not in our plastics group, however a quick
call to a buddy of mine provided the following info. Plexiglas can be scored
and broken. This is in fact the way it is done at the plant and at fabricators.
HOWEVER, special equipment is used as this stuff can crack where you don't
want it to. Home centers, hobby shops and the like that carry "Plexiglas brand
acrylic sheet" and not just 100% acrylic sheet, will most likely have some
how-to booklets put out by our sales people. They describe how the hobbyist
can cut/score/break this stuff. (This was news to me. Of course, sometimes I
think sales and Research are 2 different companies, but that's another thread!)
My friend's suggestion was a saw - with a multi-tooth blade and moderate feed
pressure. This can be cut with a hand held jig-saw, circular saw or even a hand
 saw, although I didn't get the specifics on that one.  Hope this helps.

*** Matt Cairns ***
Rohm and Haas Co.
Spring House, PA
From: tristan@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Tristan Colson)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 04:28:55 GMT
Subject: Straight-edge for cutting Sheet goods?
Organization: HP Pacific Technology Park - Sunnyvale, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking


I've been using the straight-edge and circular saw technique to cut down
sheet goods by laying the work out on 2 inch styrofoam insulation. Using one 
of the 50 inch clamp-n-tool guides, crosscuts are easy. Rips along the 8 foot 
dimension are a different story. The obvious solution is to buy one of those
extruded aluminum guides that clamp to the work. 

Here's my question: Does anybody have experience with a particular brand
or model that is compatible with using the insulation? The ones I have seen
all require a clamp (like a C-clamp) that would interfere/chew up the
fragile insulation. 

Or perhaps someone has a suggestion for a different sort of straight-edge
that I could use with this method?

Thanks,
   Tom (using Tristan's account)

   _____________________________  ____________________________________
 
   Lisa Tristan Colson            e-mail  : tristan@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com
   Hewlett-Packard                HPDESK  : Tristan Colson / HP2200/UM
   Integrated Systems             US Mail : 1266 Kifer Road MS 102F
     Division                               Sunnyvale, CA 94086            
   Phone : (Telnet/408) 746-5322            
   _____________________________  ____________________________________

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-Acknowledge-To: <PH500000@BROWNVM>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 25 Jan 1993 09:38:37 EST
From:         Bob Pelcovits <PH500000@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Clamps for a workbench

What kind of clamps do people recommend for clamping large pieces to a
workbench so that the long side is free for sanding or shaping?  I know
about the "double" clamps that hold a workpiece and clamp to the bench,
but they will grab the long side of a rectangular piece. I want, for
example, to be able to rout a rabbet on the long side and have the edge
guide of my router ride along unobstructed. Thanks,


                                  --Bob Pelcovits
                                  Robert_Pelcovits@brown.edu
                                  (401)-863-1432
                                  FAX (401)-863-1157
From: kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 220 vs. 110 power
Date: 27 Jan 93 21:00:16 GMT
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA

In article <C11zs1.A2w@hsi.com> waligora@hsi.com (Robert Waligora) writes:
>When I first purchased my table saw, the instructions said that I could
>use it with either 110 or 220 volt power by simply changing the wire
>connection on the motor. I didn't have 220 then, so I wired it for 110.
>Now I have 220 available, but am wondering what the advantage of changing
>it to 220 would be.
>
>I was told that 220 would save electricity because it is more efficient.
>I was also told that 220 will make the motor last longer and that the
>saw will have more power.
>
>right now, using the saw with 110 power, I don't have any problems. The
>saw has plenty of power. The only weakness is the fence, but that is
>another story.
>
>Can anyone validate these claims about 220 power and/or think of any more
>arguments for or against 220 volt power?


Years ago, I had a table saw that I used for some time on 110V.  Finally, after
being frustrated with always popping the circuit breaker, I installed a 220V
outlet and changed the motor to 220V.  The result? When I turned it on, it 
would come up to speed faster.  That could've been the result of other problems
though.  My own opinion is that if you have 220, us it.  It keeps the current
levels lower.  Why tax the electrical system when you don't have to?
FYI, Almost all newer induction motors can be setup to run on either voltage.

Joe.
From: ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Wiring TS.
Date: 22 Jan 93 14:37:21 GMT
Reply-To: ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi)
Organization: Becton Dickinson Research Center

I have just gone through this in my shop so and would like to relate my experience.  
My shop started out with one 15 Amp 14AWG circuit.  I own a 10" contractor saw 
(delta, 14.7 A@120).  The breaker would pop 25% of the time I tried to start the 
saw.  It was not good.  I have since installed one 20 Amp, 120 V circuit (12-2 with 
Ground) and a 20 Amp, 240 circuit (10-3 WITH GROUND!!), both with GFI protected 
breakers.  I rewired my saw for 240 V.  What a difference!  The saw starts much 
quicker, doesn't bog down, and doesn't pop the breaker!

Items to note when running 240 lines.   As Steven Bellovin , while the US NEC allows 
a shared ground and neutral line, don't do it.   I would suggest GFI protection on all 
shop wiring which is impossible without a separate ground line anyways.

good luck

Jamshed B. Ghandhi
Computer Aided Engineering
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: How do I start with $500?
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 02:21:49 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

In article <C1D4yF.31B@acheron.uucp>, clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke) writes:
> The above is enough to start with.  Get the current (Feb. 1993) issue of
> Fine Woodworking.  On page 62 there is an article on simple bookcases
> for you to look at.  You don't have a biscuit joiner, but dowels can be
> used as a substitute ( hence the 3/8 drill bit above ...).

If you're going to use dowels, you should get a doweling jig, dowel
centers, or both.  The jig will keep your holes parallel to the sides
of the wood, and the dowel centers are very cheap.

I'd also recommend getting a good (*not* Sears) router and some bits.
From: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM (John Kopf, X6305)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: workbench height
Date: 27 Jan 93 20:51:01 GMT
Reply-To: kopfj@bert.Tymnet.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

Blacksmiths say the height of an anvil should be such that the smith's knuckles
just brush the top when standing net to it -- that way, the hammer face will be
parallel to the face when striking.

By analogy, a workbench should be at elbow height, so that a saw is horizontal.

In any case, it all depends on what you're using it for - a different height may
be desirable for carving, or working with a router.

There is really no good answer -- hope this helps.

JK
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Polycarbonate prices (was: Re: want to drill and thread holes)
Reply-To: pinn@cpqhou.se.hou.compaq.com
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:38:01 GMT

In article <HOLLEN.93Jan20161034@peg.megatek.UUCP>, hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
|> >>>>> On Tue, 19 Jan 1993 20:44:27 GMT, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) said:
|> 
|> Paul>    DON'T buy it from catalogs like Woodworker's Supply.  They overcharge
|> Paul>    outrageously for this stuff.   Example:  recently WS was selling 
|> Paul>    approximately 10X10 Polycarbonate squares for $19.95.   Usually you
|> Paul>    can pick up pieces like this out of the scrap bin at TAP Plasics and
|> Paul>    pay $.50 a lb for it.   10X10" Polycarbonate at 3/8" thich would weigh
|> Paul>    about 9 ounces...
|> 
|> Well, maybe the TAP Plastics house is unusual.  We have a few here and
|> I have been looking for 3/8" PolyCarbonate scraps on and off for
|> about a year now, and no soap.  If you can find scraps, you are right,
|> the prices are no comparison, but if you price polycarbonate, you will
|> see that WS is right in line.  A 2'x4' sheet of 3/8" polycarbonate is
|> $78.  That is 8 square feet for $9.75 per square foot.  You however
|> were wrong about the size and price.  WS was selling nominal 12"x12"
|> pieces (measure out at 11 7/8" square) for $14.95.  Given that they
|> had to add labor for cutting it up, a 53% profit is about in line for
|> normal mail order operations (or most stores for that matter).  The
|> bottom line is that if you cannot find the scraps you are talking
|> about, the least amount of money you can spend is $78 to buy more than
|> you need.
|> 
|> -- 
|> Dion Hollenbeck                        Email: hollen@megatek.com
|> Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen@uunet.uu.net
|> Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek.uucp!hollen

Sorry for sticking my nose into the middle of this thread, but I have been
most successful in finding polycarb off-cuts through window and glass
installers.  Last time I picked up a 3 sq ft piece for 10 dollars.
You might want to give a couple of local places a call

Steve
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 28 Jan 1993 10:20:13 -0500
From:         JQH5@PSUADMIN.BITNET
Subject:      re:WILL GLUE JOINT HOLD

I'VE MADE SEVERAL SETS OF RAISED PANEL DOORS AND HAVE NEVER
HAD ANY PROBLEMS. USE A QUALITY WOOD WORKERS GLUE AND CLAMP
IT, BUT NOT TO TIGHT AS TO SQUEEZE OUT TO MUCH GLUE OR CAUSE
THE DOOR TO ARCH.
I WOULD QUESTION THE REASON FOR THE BRADS---THEY MAY TEND TO
SPLIT OR CRACK YOUR WOOD AT A POINT YOU CAN'T AFFORD TO HAVE
A DEFECT.
YOU MENTION DOWELS---ON ONE OF THE FIRST SET OF PANELS I MADE
I DOWELED THE BLANK FOR MY RAISED PANEL. WELL ON ONE SIDE THE
DOWELS WERE A LITTLE TO CLOSE TO THE EDGE AND I ENDED UP WITH
AFEW NICE HOLES ON THE SIDE OF THE PANEL FROM MY RAISED PANEL
CUTTER HEAD. SINCE THEN I RARELY EVER DOWEL MY PANELS. THE
LARGEST I'VE MADE IS A 4'3" X 5'6" OUT OF CHERRY THAT HAS BEEN
OVER A FIREPLACE AS PART OF A FORMAL LIVING ROOM WAINSCOT FOR
OVER 5 YEARS AND HASN'T CRACKED
GOOD LUCK
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