HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: *** CONVERSION POSSIBLE ? ***
Date: 11 Dec 92 23:30:17 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.


	
Anyone out there know if I can convert a Chevy 400 Small block to Fuel 
Injection?  I'm looking for feul economy mor than performance, as the
thing right now is plenty for my little Sunbird ;-)

I assume we're talking Throttle-Body style FI, since I want to try to use the
existing block.

Does this make any sense to anyone out there?
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    !!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    exuptr@ZGNews.Lonestar.Org  <SLOW!>
From: golder@homer.kodak.com (Patrick Golder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How do you remove frozen, stripped screws?
Date: 17 Dec 92 18:47:19 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.163308.28087@wdl.loral.com>, csk@wdl50.wdl.loral.com (Chuck Kuczaj) writes:
|> I've tried penetrating oil, heat, hammers, and other things, but the
|> basic problem is still the fact that one can't exert enough force on
|> a stripped screw.  Is there any kind of special tool, which when
|> "clamped-on" to the exposed screw head, allows for the exertion of much
|> greater torque?  Obviously, I've tried using the "vice-grip method".
|> What I'm looking for is a more optimal solution.

The best one I ever heard is to weld a rod on the top of what's left
of the stud so that it is T-shaped.  Then you have a handle with some
leverage.  Of course, you need the welding equipment to do this.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dje@eve.Berkeley.EDU (Don Eilenberger)
Subject: Re: brakes - help !!
Reply-To: dje@eve.Berkeley.EDU (Don Eilenberger)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 15:41:30 GMT

In article <1992Dec15.140814.15485@mtu.edu>, vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER) writes:
|> hoffman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Mark Hoffman) writes:
|> >applied unevenly (grabs or pulsates).  Front disk, rear drum.  Front
|> >brake rotors checked and OK.  On going problem for 1 year, does not
|> >seem to be getting worse.  Rebuild calipers?  Change brake lines?  Master
|> >Cylinder problem?
|> 
|> 
|>   Who checked your rotors?  The only way to tell if the rotors are not 
|>   warped is with a micrometer.  If someone did check them, take it somewhere
|>   else for a second opinion just to be sure.
|> 
|>   Steve
|> 
|>   vetter@mtu.edu
|> 
|> -- 
|> >
|> >
|> >
|>   Steve Vetter      __________________________________________________


Actually.. the only way to tell if they're warped is with a dial offset
guage.. a little guage that has a feeler that is set so that when you
rotate the rotor, if it is not running true, the indicator moves, and
tells you how much out of true it is. A micrometer will only measure
the thickness of a rotor.. and the rotor can be of uniform thickness
(and usually is) and still warped.

The symptoms above can also be caused by hard spots on the rotors..
they can measure fine - well within specs - and still cause pulsation
and intermittent grabbing... I know since I had this problem on a
Toyota Supra several years ago. Strangely, the rotor that measured
absolutely true (non-warped) was at fault. The only way I spotted it
was that a portion of the wear surface on the rotor was a slightly
different color than the rest. Replacing it solved the problems.

Don Eilenberger (dje@mail.bellcore.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bossoj@aix.rpi.edu (Joseph Charles Bossolini)
Subject: Optical speed sensor
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 23:57:39 GMT

I'm hoping someone can help me with this...

I am working ona project to collect auto speed data and to do this
I need an optical speed sensor that will work in serial with the speedo
cable.  I know that some cars use speed sensors to control the cruise
and I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of one
tha uses optoelectronics and is _very_ sturdy and reliable.

Essentially what I need is a sensor that will give me the RPMs of the
speedo cable (this is the easiest way for me to collect data since it
will be used on different types of vehicles.).
t
Thanks.

Joe (bossoj@rpi.edu)
From: 00bndaniels@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HP-Torque of chevy V-6?
Date: 17 Dec 92 16:22:07 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

In article <1992Dec13.160900.28853@nosc.mil>, koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
> In article <1g97t0INNapp@crcnis1.unl.edu> jskean@unlinfo.unl.edu (jonathan skean) writes:
>>samblane@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Sean Samblanet) writes:
>>(does a 4.3L V6 Chevy S-10 make a good tow vehicle for a
>>4500 pound trailer?)
> 
>>I'd say look at the other trucks in the pits pulling the same kind
>>of race cars.  Even here on the fairly level Great Plains you
>>don't see any S-10s.  Anyway, a 5.7L V-8 is going to crawl up hills
>>with that kind of weight.  You really need a big block.  No doubt
>>the 4.3 will do if you have lots of patience, but then what
>>are you doing with a race car in the first place?  Buy a Tercel
>>to commute in and a 7.6L to haul with or accept a compromise that
>>gets lousy gas mileage and still won't pull.
> 
> Naw, bad advice as far as what the tow-vehicle should be...  If you're gonna
> recommend someone get a commuter-car *and* a purposeful tow-vehicle, then you
> should at least know what to recommend.  For the tow vehicle, anyone buying
> other than a Cummins-powered Dodge D/W (depends upon whether 4wd is needed...)
> 250/350 is making a huge mistake.  359cid of Cummins produces 400lb-ft of
> torque at 1700rpm, pulls 11,400lbs of trailer *and* delivers 20mpg...  There
> *AIN'T* a gas-pig made that'll match that capability, especially not a
> pig-block.  Plus, since it's turbocharged, the Cummins doesn't 'wheeze' at
> altitude like the pig-blocks, it just lives up to its nickname of 'Come-Along'.
> 
> 
> Walt K.
	Aren't diesel engines more durable than gas engines?  I 
also read some where that Cummins' engines have a good warranty?
Is this true?  Any insights greatly appreciated
Daniels
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drabik@eecom.gatech.edu (Timothy J. Drabik)
Subject: Re: Electromotive Inc.: STAY AWAY
Keywords: Engine management
Organization: /etc/organization
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:58:12 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.214552.10384@ra.oc.com> rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder) writes:
>In article <ch!r!9b@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>>
>>  [defensive prose deleted]
>>
>>John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
>
>Maybe I am out of line.  But I spent $1100 for a product that did not
>work, the manufacturer gave no useful assistance in getting it to work,
>and they wouldn't take the product back, and feel that I owe them
>something in return.
>
>
>
>-- 
>-=<   Jon Lusky ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu   >=-- 
>   \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
>    \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
>     \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
>      \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 

I have to agree with a decision based on the company's attitude and openness,
rather than just the quality of their product.  The stuff may work fine.
However I know when I'm being jerked around.  The guy I was talking to
never admitted he was President of the company (found out through our
reference library) even when I asked to speak to the management.  I will not
do business with someone who will not level with me.

		Tim


-- 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman)
Subject: oil primimg
Organization: Computer Power Software Group Pty Ltd
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 22:33:32 GMT

Hi there
the only form of oil primimg I have heard of is on large ($$$$$$$) machinery
that needs to come on line quickly (emergency power supplies) which also have
heaters to keep their temp up . To help ordinary cars in very cold climates
you can get external and internal heaters for the engine and the car body.
See a SAAB accessory catalogue for their heaters. Rover 2000 4cyls had a large
plug in the block side for an electric immersion heater to warm up the engine.
Several people in UK make external heaters to strap on bottom of sump pan to
warm oil before use, and some are made to adapt into a radiator hose.
I thoroughly agree with Mr Vetter on at least making it easy for those who
take a car into very cold climates to be able to heat the oil if not prime it
through the system. WHenever I start a car that has been stationary for any 
length of time I put oil down  the plug holes, then spin it without plugs
until I get oil pressure up, before giving it petrol and spark.
jp
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Leaking seals in master cylinder - easy solution?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:12:40 GMT

In article <1gj789INN2ne@agate.berkeley.edu> avk@hafnium.cchem.berkeley.edu (Tony Konashenok) writes:
>In my Ford, *very* slow and smooth braking triggers the
>"brake failure" alarm, while a good kick doesn't and even 
>restores the system to normal. Apparently, it is a leaking
>rubber seal in the master cylinder.  Does anyone know about 
>any stuff I can add to the brake fluid to soften the seals 
>and stop the leak?
>I used such thing for power steering, and it helped.
>
>-- 
If you have bad seals in either your master or wheel cylinders, rebuild or
replace the offending cylinder(s) NOW. Check the boots for evidence of leaks,
and replace accordingly. Brakes are nothing to take chances with.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Defogger and A/C compressor question
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 13:42:52 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 If the cycles last only a couple of seconds, that indicates low refrigerant
causing the low-side pressure switch tho cut the compressor out. Longer
cycles may be normal; many A/C systems have thermostatic controls which keep
the evaporator slightly above freezing (or at some higher setpoint) and
cycle the compressor when that point is reached. When the temperature is
low, that point is reached quickly. 

 If you're gaugeless, you can determine the cause by disconnecting and
shorting the connector for the low-side pressure switch. It'll be somewhere
in line between the A/C evaporator pod on the firewall and the compressor;
on the only Omnoid I have messed with (out of refrigerant, BTW) it was
down on the side of the pod facing the engine - round covering, 2 wires.
If the cycling stops (compressor engages and stays engaged when you short
the two connector pins) then you're low on refrigerant.

 Cycling is not liable to hurt the compressor in itself; it's a designed
function. The electromagnetic clutch seems not to be trouble prone -
probably the biggest problem is having it rust stuck due to lack of use.
Running the compressor without refrigerant is a bad thing; hence low-side
cutout switches. If you're cycling frequently due to very low refrigerant
you're not doing your A/C system a favor.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Distributer Swapping...
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 11:59:24 EST

In article <Carr-C10973-121292140408@145.1.92.116> Carr-C10973@email.comm.mot.com (Eric Carr) writes:
>Does anyone know if a small block HEI distributer will fit in a big block?

  It should, just as long as the BigBlock is not of the "tall deck"
(truck) variety.  I put a HEI in a '74 454 taken from a 350 motor.  Still
works just fine.

                          ________
>               ________ /  '67   /_________
>              /    Caprice Sport Coupe    /         
>             /      396cid     365hp     /   See the USA in an old
>Chevrolet                                                                  
>                                  
>            /________   USA-1  _________/         
>                    /_________/
>                                      

 Nice .sig, Nice car!
________________________________________________________________________
\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
\                                                                      /
/ The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- \
\______________________________________________________________________/
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Please Identify this Car!
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


SL>>>Ok all you car dudes!  Help a gal out!

SL>>>My car is a Pontiac Sunbird Convertable.

SL>>>The fourth digit of the VIN is a J
  >>>The tenth digit of the VIN is an H

SL>>>So, according to Chilton's No. 7059 Repair manual for 2000/Sunbird
  >>>cars, my car should be:

SL>>>Engine Code    Cu. In.      Liters     Cyl.     Fuel Sys.    Year
  >>>-----------    ---------    ------     ----     ----------   ----
  >>>   J           110 (OHC)     1.8        4        MFI Turbo    '87

SL>>>Note the the fuel system MFI is Multiport Fule Enjection.


SL>>>Now, looking at my car:
  >>>                                 3
  >>>Cu. In. : ( OHC ) I don't know in
  >>>Liters  : 2.0 L  (says this on the engine)
  >>>Cyl     : 4
  >>>Fuel sys: Fuel Injection, only it isn't multi-port, it is Throttle body!

SL>>>So, why does my car differ then what the book says it should be?
  >>>By the way, my vert is not a turbo.

SL>>>Also, Last summer, I got the AC re-charged.  It worked for about a week,
  >>>then stopped working.  I had moved, so I didn't take it back.

SL>>>Anyways, I was looking at the big metal case that has a little metal pipe
  >>>that goes into the ratiator, then out of it, then to a smaller little meta
  >>>case, then into the compresor?  I think that is what it is, becase it is h
  >>>into the engine belts.

SL>>>Anyways, the smaller little metal case is cracked competely in half.  You
  >>>pull it apart.

SL>>>With this being like that, would it have any effect on engine preformance?

SL>>>Thanks for any help!

SL>>>--
  >>>Faith Gibson
hi,
        1st, the 8th DIGIT is the engine id code. And your A/C problem
        sounds like the combination hoses and it will cost a lot. You
        have to have a certified shop do the repair now a days or you
        break the law...asuming it is hose assembly, probably in area of
        $225-300. Depends on if they replace the
        accummulator/dryer.(which they should!)
        Get back to us with that correct VIN number and then we can ID
        it!
                                                later,
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                             
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: engine startup noise
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 16:51:41 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.215946.677@hawk.cs.ukans.edu> stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs) writes:
>
>I have an '84 Isuzu Pickup with the 2.0 l 4cylinder engine. When I 
>start the engine after it sits for a while, there is a lot of valve
>noise and the oil light stays on for 10-20 seconds. Of course it is
>worse the longer the engine sits. After 4 hours it is only for a 
>couple of seconds, but on a cold morning it is pretty bad.
>
>I have tried thinner oils, thicker oils, factory filters, PTFE additive
>and am now using Mobil 1.
>
>
>If anyone has any thoughts on this I would appreciate the input on
>net or mail.
>
Maybe you have a worn/clogged oil pump. Not terribly expensive to fix, as
long as you don't wait for the engine to self-destruct. 
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Subject: Defogger and A/C compressor question
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 17 Dec 92 23:10:44 EST

 
In Message-ID: <FRAZER.92Dec14141757#ired460a.erim.org>,
frazer@ired460a.erim.org (Matt Frazer) writes:
 
>  I recently inherited a 1986 Plymouth Horizon. It only has 25K actual
>miles - a real life case of the little old lady who only drove it to
>church on Sundays. It's in pretty good condition, but lack of use seems
 
My mother drives an '87 LeBaron about 1 mile from her  apartment to the
church that she works in, and her car has less that 20,000 miles on it.
Another case of the little old lady driving to church! Because it's driven
about 4 days a week, it's in excellent condition.
 
>to have taken its toll too. One thing I have noticed is that when I turn
>on the defogger, there is a clicking sound. This car has A/C, and I found
>that the noise is from the compressor clutch engaging, then immediately
>disengaging. This sure doesn't seem right. The constant cycling on and off
>has got to be tough on the compressor, and it sure doesn't sound good on
>that little engine either.
 
Perfectly normal for Chryslers! My 86 LeBaron GTS and the above-mentioned
87 LeBaron sedan both do this and have done so from day one. I agree that
it does sound kind of rough, but I've never had a problem. Come to think
of it, my 1980 Cordoba did the same thing.
 
The manual explains that the a/c comes on with the defogger to help de-
humidify the air *and* to ensure that the a/c is "exercised" in the winter
months (when you normally use the defoggers). It's good to circulate the
oil mixed in with the refridgerant now and then to prevent seals from drying
out.
 
When the weather is cooler, the compressor seems to "short-cycle" but this
is apparently "normal".
 
Hope this helps.
 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     Fido: 1:229/15
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Cummins
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 00:47:19 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)

>(all *real* Diesels are turbocharged)

Hmm.  Maybe you mean "are turbo or supercharged".

The "318 Jimmy diesel", aka a "8V71 Detroit Diesel" (from GM, 8 'V' organized
cylinders, 71 cu in each, 318 horsepower) is not turbocharged, it is however 
supercharged.  One can add a turbocharger and get a "350 Jimmy diesel".
The 318 should be considered a real diesel.

Cummins also has built diesel engines which are supercharged but
not turbocharged, but the one I saw up close was not a modern
engine, maybe they don't do so anymore.

And real^2 diesels, such as those which power locomotives.
Anyone know if these are naturally aspirated? 

The ol' D8 I knew and loved didn't have either, and not only was
ether starting fluid not warned against, it was required for
all starts.

The Nissan Diesel in my pickup .. uh .. not real? .. ok.

Time for an interesting survey.

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: The Immobilser
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 15 Dec 92 16:49:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> system that must be installed by a licensed mechanic.

 Licensed by whom?

 There may be places where you have to get a mechanic license, but
around here all you need to work for money is a plain old business
permit, for which City Hall charges fifty bucks per year.

 A quick trip through a dealer's school won't necessarily make someone a
mechanic either.  The local Ford dealer likes to hire kids right out of
high school, run them through the Ford course, and then put them on the
line.  When the kids see something they didn't specifically cover in
school, they haven't the faintest idea what to do.

 NIASE certification usually means something - their tests (or at least
the tests they had some years ago) required basic problem solving skills
as opposed to rote memorization.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Light and LOUD... I want aftermarket horns
Date: 20 Dec 92 14:25:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> dipshit pedestrians here who barge out into the streets without
-> looking. Dumb f*ckers oughta be glad there's laws making it a crime
-> to run folks over no matter how stupid they are-

 It used to be that way here in Arkansas.  Sometime during the last ten
years, the state changed the traffic code.  Previously, pedestrians had
right of way *everywhere*, and if one jumped out in the road and you hit
him, you were at fault.

 The new reg reads basically "pedestrians must not impede the flow of
traffic."  Considerably better.  I guess every now and then things must
change for the better.

 People *don't* step out into traffic in Arkansas.

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================