HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dfuller@portal.hq.videocart.com (Dave Fuller)
Subject: amp selection
Organization: VideOcart Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 02:27:53 GMT


   I'm at the last step in my stereo selection and I'm having a problem
making a decision. I've got a Pioneer CD deck, Alpine rear deck & door
speakers. An Alpine passive EQ and 2 12" Fosgate Punch Subs. After dumping
the money, I find it odd to have this particular problem. I'm not sure
what to power the back speakers with. My deck powers the doors fine. 
I don't know what to power the 6x9's and subs with. I know the power 
level i need, just not the manufacturer to get the amp from. The price
range on amps is incredible. Has anybody ever heard similar setups
powered by say coustic,pioneer,alpine,fosgate ? Can you actually hear
a difference ? Does the difference come in the subs floating at high
output ? The difference in price is basically 2:1 between a high end
and "good" amp. I know that there is always talk of a difference in the
sound of a premium amp, but is it only measurable by a piece of 
electronics equipment, or is it OBVIOUS to the ear ? I want the sound to 
be very clear and sharp, but there does seem to be a point where the
extra $$ really doesn't do any good.
 

Dave Fuller
dfuller@portal.hq.videocart.com

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne)
Subject: Installation Related Item Sources
Organization: Tellabs, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 18:44:12 GMT


I am looking for sources that carry car stereo installation related
items, specifically adapters to mount a shaft-style receiver in a
DIN mounting space, something on the order of what Crutchfield calls
an 'installation kit'. I'm planning on installing my system in a
'89 Taurus and would like a mounting adapter that fits the original
mounting lugs in the dash.

I'd also like to find a good source on speaker box cloth/carpeting


Any sources would be appreciated.


			Thanks,

				Jeff

BTW: i haven't called Crutchfield yet, do they sell install kits
     seperately, or are they just distributed on a system purchase only
     basis?
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             
 F-14             |    _    |             | Jeffrey M. Fayne
   Tomcat         |  /^ ^\  |             | Tellabs, Inc.   Lisle, IL  60532
      ____________|_(  .  )_|____________ | 708-512-7726    FAX:708-852-7346
           --*/--|_| (___) |_|--\*--      | fayne@tellabs.com
              *       O O       *     fjs | #include<StdDisclaimer.h>
_____________________________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gianos@leland.Stanford.EDU (Edward Alexander Gianos)
Subject: Re: Installation Related Item Sources
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 06:58:23 GMT

In article <1993Jan25.184412.13347@tellab5.tellabs.com> fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne) writes:
>
>I am looking for sources that carry car stereo installation related
>items, specifically adapters to mount a shaft-style receiver in a
>DIN mounting space, something on the order of what Crutchfield calls

Crutchfield has a bunch of installation kits, a la carte.
*some* car audio shops don't mind DIYers.  They can always help.

>I'd also like to find a good source on speaker box cloth/carpeting

I get all my stuff from the local fabric store.  Careful, though,
you'll probably run into your old 4th grade teacher there.
Actually, this place has some **wild** patterns that set my
mind thinking....all the flourescents, zany patters, etc.....
dirt cheap, too.

yet 2 more pennies to the pot....
From: gshin@hertz.elee.calpoly.edu (George Shin)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: FORFOR SALE: a/d/s amplifier & SUB-WOOFER TUBES !!!!!
Date: 27 Jan 93 04:30:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo

hello,

  i'm selling the following equipments for a DIRT CHEAP price:

    1) a/d/s PH-15 300W amplifier,
    2) Hollywood Sound-Lab 8" Sub-Woofer Tubes (Pair), and
    3) Crutchfield 4x50W amplifier

  going price is very negotiable... please e-mail me at the following
  address:

  gshin@vnet.ibm.com

  remember, the price is VERY NEGOTIABLE !!!!

  george


  or call me at (408) 225-7552 !!!


   PARTY ON DUDES ..... :->     gshin @gauss.elee.calpoly.edu
                                       (129.65.26.104)
From: DMW122@psuvm.psu.edu (Duane Whitlock)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Weird Acoustics
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:43:28 GMT
Organization: Penn State University

Hi,
     I would like to hear from anyone who has done stereo installations to a Ch
evy Beretta.  (No cutting on the car-it's what I've got for now...)  Especially
 those who did work on it that was more than just replacing factory speakers.
I'm interested in non-factory speaker locations (i.e. for separates or larger c
oaxials) and rear speakers.  The reason for this is pretty much for curiousity
sake, but I also want to tell everyone about a weird thing that happened to me
this past weekend
     I have a pretty simple setup.  6x9's in the rear and 6 1/2" coaxials in th
e door (getting separates soon I hope...).  The other day I was being stupid si
tting in the passenger seat and not

iced the radio really sounded "better" than normal.  I didn't know why.  The re
ason turned out to be that I was only running three speakers.  The wire from th
e amplifier to the rear right speaker wasn't connected.  I connected it back up
, and acoustically, the music became much blander.  I tried this out on 50 diff
erent songs and every single one sounded better with JUST the left rear speaker
 on (and the front speakers).  Has anyone else encountered a "messed up" car
that has such weird acoustics like this?  I now drive around (especially when I
 have passengers in the front seat) with only three speakers.  I lose the 6x9 b
ass from the rear right, but for some reason the imaging is MUCH better...
     Not that most of you really care...but those of you who do (or have Berett
as and have done things on it) I'd like to hear any opinions from you.

Duane Whitlock   DMW122@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ajones@dadd.ti.com (Alan Jones)
Subject: Wiring
Reply-To: ajones@dadd.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments, Inc.
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:20:29 GMT

Well, I've selected and purchased all of the components for my killer-to-be
car stereo, and I'm itching to install it.  I bought the following:

  Pioneer DEH680 CD player head unit
  Boston Pro Series 6.2 separates (back seat)
  Hollywood Sound Labs HSL-1254 12" DVC subwoofer
  2 Hafler MSE80 4x20W amps

One amp will be bridged to 2x80 to drive the Bostons, and one will be bridged
to drive the DVC sub.

All I need now is the wiring!

The Crutchfield catalog doesn't have much of a selection here - it mainly
sells Streetwires products, which seem expensive (but they *look* good), and
I'm sure they perform well.

I really don't care what my wiring looks like - I just want good SOUND.  How
important is wiring selection (relative to audio performance, that is).

---
sincerely,
Alan Jones  /  Texas Instruments, Dallas, TX  /  email=ajones@asic.sc.ti.com

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: Sony portable *car* CD players
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 22:59:51 GMT

In article <tom.728156859@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu> tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
} I've seen a couple of different portable cd players that are sort of
}made for the car.  That is, they come with a cassette adapter, power
}cable of some sort and they supposably resist road bumps better then
}the average portable.  Anyone have one of these?  If so, got a opinion
}of it?  Thanks!

Sure.  I use a Sony D-180K, aka the lower-end Car Discman.  Supposedly
has some sort of "dual shock absorber" type thing in it.  I got it for
$200.  Came with cassette adapter and 1/8" to RCA jack adapters, as
well as a 12VDC-->9VDC cigarette lighter adapter/transformer.  Also comes
with a 120VAC-->9VDC home use converter.  I've taken the thing over
railroad tracks at 50mph and it doesn't skip at all.  Nice features
(variable and line outs, remote input, case lock, button lock, shuffle
play, usual CD functions).  Warnings: if your disc has a speck of dust
on it, expect it to skip.  My record is a scratched disc which skipped
over fifty times in one song.  Also, in most car applications, as has
been noted here in r.a.c. from time to time, the poor design of the
power transformer can cause nasty to unbearable (depending on the rest
of your system) buzzing and CD motor noises.

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
 Sony - Phase Linear - Sanyo - Sennet | of the establishment..."
 Jensen - Polk - StreetWires - Proton |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: dfuller@portal.hq.videocart.com (Dave Fuller)
Subject: Perfect Box
Organization: VideOcart Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 02:51:26 GMT


  I have seen several references to Perfect Box. My assumption is that
it is a computer program for figuring the most effective enclosure for
a specific sub setup. Is this so ? Where can this be found at ?

Dave Fuller
dfuller@portal.hq.videocart.com

From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:55:16 GMT
Subject: Re: Pro defeats Car Alarm - should I post how?
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

OK, post.  Don't think thiefs should have all the knowledge.

Kirk out
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 01:02:24 EST
From: Michael Brunetti <MICHAELB@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Pro defeats Car Alarm - Here's how
 <1993Jan23.193533@usho21.hou281.chevron.com>

I have the new Code-Alarm top-of-the-line model and it has fuses on
EVERYTHING.  It is a VERY nice unit.. I managed to install it: hook up
door look modules, and Twindow modules, starter disable, lights flash,
etc. with NO external relays or diodes!  Just smart circuit design...



*************************************************************************
  Michael Brunetti                     michaelb@ucf1vm.cc.ucf.edu
  Consultant (I & R Support)          UCF Computer Engineering Student
*************************************************************************
    "I believe OS/2 is destined to be the most important operating
     system, and possibly program, of all time" - Bill Gates, Nov, 1987.
*************************************************************************
From: wrob@unixg.ubc.ca (Robert Wong)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Pro defeats Car Alarm - Here's how
Date: 24 Jan 1993 09:22:30 GMT
Organization: University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., Canada
NNTP-Posting-Host: unixg.ubc.ca

In article <1993Jan23.193533@usho21.hou281.chevron.com> hhtra@usho21.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes:
> left.  The owner didn't notice anything amiss until he entered the Jeep
> in the morning and the window fell out.

Boy, that would be pretty traumatic, if I got into my car in the morning and
the windshield fell out and my stereo was missing.  I would think briefly about
staying in bed for the rest of the day at that point.
 RWW. 
-- 
Robert W. "What!?! I've-been-tying-my-shoelaces-backwards-all-my-life?" Wong Jr.
wrob@unixg.ubc.ca (ASCII only)
From: johs@dhhalden.no (JO HAAVAR SLANGSVOLD)
Subject: Does anyone use Pioneer GMA200 with sub??
Organization: Ostfold College
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 00:02:09 GMT


	If so, what job can it do ??  I have an GMA200 and CD620 Electronic 
Crossover which need a couple of sub... Can this ^^^^^ king of shit make it 
hot for two Celestion 12"???  From 80 Hz, I will use Canton Pullman.....

Right now, I am using the GMA200's left channel with a 10"....  It sounds... 
eh.....not too hot.....

I don't want the disco-bass(yeah it sounds quite impressive outside...) 
because it will be boring within a couple of days....  I want the real 
sound......


Jo Haavar

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: morris@mksol.dseg.ti.com (jerry a morris)
Subject: speaker boxes
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 21:15:06 GMT

I have heard tha the speaker box should not have any parallel sides.
can any one comment on this and if this is true, does it apply to ported
or sealed speakers???

thanks in advance
From: greg@turbo.atl.ga.us (Greg Montgomery)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Help needed getting wiring diagram for alarm
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 07:31:29 EST
Distribution: world
Organization: Montgomery Consultants, Inc.

I have a Stinger alarm (made by Delta) that I'm about to move into
another car, but the problem I have is I don't have a wiring diagram.
I got the alarm professionally installed, and I went back there once and
asked if I could get the wiring schematic and they said no, only
authorized installers could have it, which is b.s., because if I had
bought it uninstalled, they would of have to have given it to me.
Is this common practice for installers to give do-it-yourselfer's a hard
time? I'm going to go back there, but is what they told me the truth?
The way I see it, I paid for the alarm, so I should get the wiring info.
I'm not going to wire it wrong and then take it back! I just want to put
it on a different car.

Also, if I can't convince these turkeys to give it to me, is there
anyone here who could xerox a copy of the Stinger wiring schematic for
me?

Thanks!

Greg


---
Greg Montgomery -                       |  Atlanta, Georgia, U.S.A.
greg@turbo.atl.ga.us                    |
{gatech|rutgers}!emory!turbo!greg       |
Organization: Central Michigan University
Date: Friday, 22 Jan 1993 09:15:16 EST
From: John Foster <32HNBAK@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Car wont start when amp connected

From: ychoi@unixg.ubc.ca (Yen Choi) writes:
I have this unusual problem.

I have partially installed an amp in my trunk, and the only wires that are
connected are the power, and ground.

BUT when I try to start my car, it wont start.  at first I thought it was
because my battery was dead, so I got a jump. The car started fine, but
the next day, it would not start.  So I disconnected the power cable from
the amp and the car started just fine.

Could it be that my battery was not charged enough to start the engine (
I thought that the amp would not drain power, the remote wire was not
connected)

 Any explanations would be really appreciated.


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: e92_msn@elixir.e.kth.se (Mathias S|dergren)
Subject: pre-amps???
Reply-To: e92_msn@elixir.e.kth.se (Mathias S|dergren)
Organization: School of EE, Royal Institute of Technology, Sweden
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 10:25:31 GMT


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: e92_msn@elixir.e.kth.se (Mathias S|dergren)
Distribution: world
Reply-To: e92_msn@elixir.e.kth.se (Mathias S|dergren)
Organization: School of EE, Royal Institute of Technology, Sweden
Subject:pre-amps???????? 

I'd like to hear your opinions on pre-amps. I've thinking of buying one 
but I'm sure if it really pays off. The Fultron 16-0737 (preamp, 4 band 
parametric eq) has just been introduced here in Sweden (yes it's damn cold),
and it seems to be quite nice. Opinion?? Suggestions on other good,not to 
expensive, pre-amps?
 Read an article about new infinity amps, and I'm wondering how a 
class D amp works?       
I would also like to recommend ZAPCO amps, I use the Z150 and  the monoamp 
 Z100MVX and it sounds just great.  
           Thanks,
               Mathias S(non existent letter, o with two dots above)dergren

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: wen@IASTATE.EDU (Kusuma Martanto)
Subject: SONY CD changer
Reply-To: wen@IASTATE.EDU (Kusuma Martanto)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:33:01 GMT


HI! Does anyone know about sony cd changer series A-100 or 2001?
I wanna buy one of them and stall it into my car.
I really hope an information about these two types, which one is better
and hopefully I can get the price also. Thank's


John .KM


From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 21:56:45 GMT
Subject: Re: where to get wiring components
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

Home Depot, Orchard Supply and Hardware, TrueValue(?).

Home repair centers are where I get the stuff in Calif.

Kirk out
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Pro defeats Car Alarm - should I post how?
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 14:52:53 EST

In article <1993Jan20.120726@usho72.hou281.chevron.com> hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock) writes:
[details of theft deleted]
>
> But HOW they got past the alarm was a shock, literally.  I would like 
> to post the details of what the dealer said but I'm leary of drawing 
> flames for posting a "how-to" primer.  Also, it kinda sounds weird
> too, so I don't want to be flamed for posting BS, either. 
>
> Should I?
>
   Yes, so that the owners of that system will know its flaws, and can
eliminate that flaw.  At least offer it by e-mail....

> TRAVIS
> hhtra@chevron.com


                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  

    

    



Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: Pro defeats Car Alarm - should I post how?
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:53:23 GMT

RYNA10@waccvm.corp.mot.com  writes:
> 
>  I visited my local dealer yesterday and he told me that a pro-theif hit
>  one of his other customers.
> 
>  It was a Jeep Cherokee and hardly any damage was done in the removal of
>  about $3000 worth of gear.  They didn't break any windows or tear up
>  major chunks of interior. They cut the glass and did an installation
>  job in reverse. They knew what they were doing.
Are you referring to the old car battery with jumper cables on each bumber
to short out the alarm?  Or a stun gun can also be used to short it out.
Both methods use the hood/door/trunk pins to send the juice to the alarm
center and cook it from there.  There is also an easy way around this.  Put
fuses on ALL sensor wires going to the alarm.  This way if this is tried
it will just blow the fuse and hopefully set off the alarm at the same time.
Be sure to use the fast blowing fuses, and not the slow-blow ones.  Most
alarm installers know about this, they just don't want to spend the extra
couple of bucks to install the fuses.  Either get them to do it, or make
a run by your local Radio Shack and pick up the fuses yourself.  It's
worth it in the long run.

Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
 
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu (Jason Davis)
Subject: Re: Advice on Fosgate Subs
Keywords: subs,fosgate
Reply-To: jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu (Jason Davis)
Organization: East Texas State University, Commerce, TX
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 04:03:14 GMT

In article <1993Jan27.133220.10613@ac.dal.ca> jayadams@ac.dal.ca writes:
>Can anyone tell me what they think of Rockford Fosgate Pro series subs?

...deletion...
>
>Thanks,
>Jason "Mr. Boom 2U" Adams
>

Jason, et. al.  [nice name, BTW ;-)]

   I like what my RF Pro Series 18's do for my set up.  Before I got mine I
had heard rumors of a tendency for the Rockford Pro subs to self destruct.
I must, unfortunately, verify this rumor.  What happens is that the Pro Series
has such a long throw and high moving mass which puts a lot of stress on the
suspension.  Apparently, the adhesive that is used to attach the suspension
to the basket structure can not hold up.  I've not had any problem with the
surround suspension, however the spider suspension has finally managed to
come loose on both of them.  This problem, fortunately, has an easy fix by
recementing the surround the the basket.  So far that has proved successful.
Even with this problem I would still not hesitate to recommend them.  I also
have some experience with the smaller diameter Pros and they don't seem to be
as succeptable to this separation problem.  You should listen for a popping
sound when checking the speakers.  When the spider comes loose it will 'slap'
against the basket and produces an annoying sound so it's not too difficult
detect.  If it sounds like it might be blown, check the surround for separation
before tossing them.  Moral: there is a flaw, but it is easily fixed. GO FOR IT!

73's all...		Jason Lee Davis  KB5YBP, clear and monitoring.



   /|  Jason Lee Davis  KB5YBP (903) 886-2903 <jdavis@wizard.etsu.edu>  |\
||/_|  Shiloh Productions sound co. ____      <jdavis@merlin.etsu.edu>  |_\||
||\ |  Rt. 1  Box 175              (_ |_)     <s2903d@etsuv2.etsu.edu>  | /||
   \|  Klondike, Texas 75448 ________)| _____ <s2903d@etsuvax2.bitnet>  |/
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jsc52962@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Subject: Re: adding caps and a center channel
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:04:41 GMT

In article <1jmkdgINNomb@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> meiser@cps.msu.edu (Matthew E Meiser) writes:
}I have another question. Will adding this cap cause any drain on my battery?
}I drive my car only about once a week while I am at school so it doesn't
}get a lot of time to charge.

Assuming your connection to the battery is hot and not ignition-switched,
it will drain your battery a fair bit at first when you first charge it
up, and beyond that, it will only put a load on your system whenever
it needs to recharge.  It will only recharge after your amp draws a lot
of power (and would thus be "helped" by the cap, causing the cap to
discharge some).  Theoretically, when your system is off and the cap is
sitting there fully charged, the cap will not draw any power (it looks
like an open circuit to the power supply), except that you're dealing with
reality (we hope).  All "real" caps discharge slightly, and thus will
draw a small amount of power to keep themselves charged to 12 (14.4,
whatever) volts.  With smallish sized caps (5,000uF), I've measured this
"leak" to be of the 10uA order of magnitude, so it's practically
negligible.  Your car's clock probably draws a lot more power than that,
so don't worry about it.

Now, if you have your connection to the battery ignition-switched, that
changes everything.  Your cap will draw a lot of power *every time*
you turn the key in order to recharge itself.  If that's the case, it's
a much better idea to connect your amp/cap directly to the battery (it's
almost always a good idea anyway).

Jeff
-- 
Jeffrey S. Curtis sidewinder@uiuc.edu | "Resplendent and full again, they revel
 The Power of 37  free2207 at uiucvmd | in their role as self-appointed critics
 Sony - Phase Linear - Sanyo - Sennet | of the establishment..."
 Jensen - Polk - StreetWires - Proton |   -- INXS _Welcome to Wherever You Are_
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: tpremo@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Todd Premo)
Subject: QUESTION: seperate wiring and x-overs..
Summary: Wish to wire two sets of seperates.    
Keywords: Seperates, x-over, wiring
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:26:20 GMT

I have chosen a home-cooked design for seperates that sound great!  I wish 
to have two sets of them running off each channel of an 75w/ch amp.  Each
set of seperates is 8ohms impedence so I will wire them in parallel.  The
Question:

	Can I design the (passive) crossover so that one will run both 
front and rear sets of seperates?  (taking into account the paralleled 
resistance of the drivers).

	The Other problem is with the level at which the speakers play.
Is it possible to put an L-pad on the rear speakers w/out it effecting 
the fronts?
	
	Please comment as to the ability or inability to do this.

	Thanks, 

	Todd



-- 
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 (___________________________________ %   Todd Premo  
         /              /      /      %   Purdue Universtiy 
       /    __	 __   / __   /        %   Engineering