HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tpc@bmerh195.uucp (Thomas P. Chmara)
Subject: Re: Sears router problem--Am I alone?
Organization: Bell Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 01:45:15 GMT

In article <9APR199215142668@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> withrow@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (JAMES WITHROW) writes:
>In article <Apr.9.13.17.50.1992.25660@dartagnan.rutgers.edu>, lfischer@dartagnan.rutgers.edu (Lfischer) writes...
>>
>>Wait, I have the 1 horse router and I experience the same thing!!
>>inability and feeble-mindedness that is...
>> 
>I had a job 10 years ago making picnic tables.  All the wood had the edges 
>rounded over so we used it alot.  The owner liked SEARS equipment.  We would 
>destroy a SEARS router once a month.  Those routers were used after 1 month,
>(about 10 hours of running).  I probably have 40 hours on my current non 
>SEARS router and it is still working great.

My Sears 1-1/2HP (800 model in Canada - the one with the dust bag) is about
4 years old and still running fine.  It's seen handheld and router-table
service with no failures (so far); it's been used a fair amount for both soft-
and hardwood work.  I realize Sears stuff isn't great in the eyes of the net,
but I found it a good machine to learn on (at the time, I couldn't justify
the price of a better router -- largely because, just getting into the
hobby, I didn't know what to look for (features, power, capacity, design, etc).

Oddly enough, I've just bought my second router -- it's the 3HP Craftsman
Professional (a OEMed Ryobi RE600).  Don't discount Sears immediately; yes,
they sell crap, but if you shop carefully, you can also find good prices on
good products, and you can't beat the service and support network.
	---tpc---
--
I am sole owner of the above opinions. These opinions are furnished without
warranty or liability expressed or implied.  Your mileage may vary.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Chmara, P.Eng.|  INTERNET:  tpc@bnr.ca	|  Fone:  (613)765-2925
From: flato@icefloe.dartmouth.edu (Gregory M Flato)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Seek Advice on Gluing Mortise & Tenon Joints
Date: 9 Apr 92 21:07:41 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH

wartik@software.org (Steve Wartik) writes:

>Well, I have just about finished my first project that uses mortise and tenon
>joinery.  (First joint: ~4 hours; now down to ~0.5 hours per joint; not bad,
>but a ways to go... but I digress.)  This may seem like an obvious question,
>but what suggestions can anyone give me on the gluing stage?  Do I glue both
>the mortise and tenon?  Is it necessary to glue the other faces as well?
>Any hints on how I tell what the right amount of glue is?

I generally use glue only on the tenon. My rationale is: a) it is easier to
apply an even coat of glue to the tenon than it is to the inside of the
mortise; b) some of the glue applied to the inside of the mortise gets pushed 
down to the botton as the tenon is inserted, whereas some glue applied to the 
tenon gets left behind and provides the glue to the rest of the joint (which 
doesn't really add strength since one face is long grain but it insures that 
everything is tight). I sqeeze a small bead of glue onto each side of the
tenon and spread it with a scrap stick so that quite a thin coat is left -
not quite as thin a coat as you can get, but almost. If the joint is quite
tight to begin with (it should be tight enough that it takes some force to
sqeeze the joint together, but not a lot - a few light taps with a mallet
or a light squeeze with a clamp) then there will be almost no glue sqeeze-out
from the joint. I like to see just a few tiny drops of glue squeeze out so
I know the joint is not starved. If great globs of glue squeeze out then
apply a thinner coat on the next tenon. If you see no squeeze-out, apply a 
little more. Pretty soon (normally by the last joint :-) you will get it 
about right.

I like to add dowels to my mortise and tenon joints, both for added strength
and because I like the look of a so-called 'pinned' mortise and tenon. To
do this, proceed as above and let the piece dry overnight. Next day, lay out
the dowel positions, drill holes (not all the way through but deep enough to
pass through the tenon and slightly into the other side of the mortise), cut
a bunch of dowels (smooth not fluted) about 1/4" longer than neccessary, sand
a bit of a bevel on one end of each (to make it easier to start them in
the holes), apply a little glue on the tapered end of the dowel with your
finger and drive it (the dowel, not your finger) into the hole. When the
glue dries (next day) cut the protruding dowels off with a flush-cutting saw
or pare them off with a sharp chisel and sand smooth. Viola!

Hope this helps.
	Cheers,
		Greg

PS. please post a summary indicating how many responses you get (n) and
    how many different methods you get (m). I suspect m/n will be near unity.
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Woodworking books/mags  (was Re: Want to get started in woodworking...)
Date: 15 Apr 92 18:41:11 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Ronnie B. Kon writes
> You will need reading material:
> 
> 1)  A subscription to Woodsmith magazine
> 	Lots of good advice on techniques, many projects in the beginner to
> 	intermediate range.  Some advanced.
> 
> 2)  A subscription to Fine Woodworking magazine
> 	Glossy and slick.  Good articles on tools and techniques.  Advanced
> 	to very advanced projects (by and large).  Get the Woodsmith 
> 	subscription if you are only going to get one.
> 
> 3)  Tage Frid's woodworking books, volumes 1 and 2.  Don't get volume 
> 	3 (Furnituremaking).  It discusses how to go about designing 
> 	furniture.

Frid's third volume mostly contains over a dozen projects of varying  
complexity. It does have a single chapter on furniture design, and Frid  
discusses some of his designing process in describing the projects.

But, I really have to voice displeasure with advice that tells one to avoid  
books on designing furniture. Detailed step by step instructions, like those in  
Woodsmith, reduce woodworking to the equivalent of painting by numbers. Would  
you advise a budding oil painter to only get books on mixing colors, cleaning  
and choosing brushes, choosing and framing canvasses, and then get detailed  
step by step instructions for painting a copy of some not so great painting? [I  
think it's safe to say that Woodsmith's projects (sorry to pick on them) are  
not the woodworking equivalent of Monet's water lilies, or Van Gogh's  
cornfields, or Rembrant's self-portraits.]

Perhaps the argument is that painting is an art while woodworking is a craft,  
but I don't buy that. A good reason to work in wood is to create practical,  
useful, and beautiful things. Why do these things have to be carbon copies of  
relatively pedestrian designs, where straightforward construction is more  
important than aesthetics?  Many of Frid's projects are stunning designs (his  
"Grandmother clock" and single pedestal table, for instance) - if you have to  
copy, why not copy a great design? Frid's instructions are clear and precise  
with warnings on tough spots, and he refers throughout the text to his two  
previous volumes for instructions on how to cut the necessary joints.

Woodsmith sells you everything you need except the wood - their projects really  
are just kits, like assembling a bicycle. Come on, are cutting diagrams for  
wood purchased in random width and length amounts necessary or even worthwhile? 

Now, I do think Woodsmith's projects have a place. It certainly helps to see  
how various kinds of pieces use different joints and assembly techniques to  
achieve strength and beauty. But, in my opinion, the paint-by-numbers approach  
isn't suitable after you've got a project or two under your belt - It'll slow  
your woodworking advancement down. 

-Bennett
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Subject: Re: Adjusting planer knives
Reply-To: ag900@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (David Burris)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 02:04:40 GMT


In a previous article, erickson@atlas.cs.nps.navy.mil (David Erickson) says:

>I just bought an old Boice-Crane 12" x 5" planer.  The knives are way
>out of adjustment.  Do I need a magna set or equivalent, or are there
>good lo-tech methods to adjust the blades?

Grizzly has a lo-tech cast iron gauge for their 12" planer.NO ASCII
drawing available.It's fairly simple and works quite well.The bottom
curvature of the gauge matches that of the cutterhead.Only the ends of
the gauge make contact with the cutterhead, so it straddles the knife
you are setting.Then you raise the knife setting screw until the knife
just touches the gauge.Do this on each end of the knife and your done.
You might be able to find something like this or even make your own out
of 1/2" Lexan.
The Grizzly one might work, but we all know that they don't stock parts
for other companies machines.:-)

Dave


-- 
ag900@cleveland.freenet.edu
From: carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Want to get started in woodworking
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:20:02 EST

If a local community has an adult education program, inquire about a 
woodworking class.  A friend was in your same boat - wanting to get
into woodworking but without the tools.  I noticed a flyer at the 
local power tool store regarding an entry level course taught in
the evening at a local high school.  The day teacher also taught the
evening course, and ran them through the basic techniques including
safety tips on the various tools.  Not too expensive ~= $50 for
ten weeks - including materials!.

Good luck.  Its not for everyone, but its a great hobby if your patient
and have the desire to make something from scratch you'll be able 
to use for years to come.

Dave
----------------------------------------------------------------
These are my opinions and not necessarily those of my employer

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@maui.linus.mitre.org (Barry D. Smith)
Subject: Re: Woodworking books/mags  (was Re: Want to get started in woodworking...)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 13:29:13 GMT

Bennett,

Normally I find myself in agreement with your postings, but in this
case I think you missed the point.  The original posting was for
someone just starting out in woodworking.  I think woodworking can be
either a craft or an art, but in either case I would hope that the
workmanship is as good as it could be.  I find it very distressing
when I see furniture that looks good but was poorly constructed
(driving a dowel through a sloppy mortise and tenon does not make it a
good joint).   

	Someone beginning in woodworking not only needs plans supplied
to him or her, but should follow them religiously until they can do
the joinery, etc. with the precision it deserves.  Remember, most
great artists started with a guild-type apprenticeship, whether it was
at a school or with a master.  I remember seeing a show in New York of
Picasso's anatomy drawings.  Every one was perfect--hands looked just
like hands, feet looked just like feet, etc.  The shading and
representation of light was excellent.  It was only after he had
mastered these techniques that he went in the directions he did.  And
I think that it was only because he mastered these techniques that he
was able to be a great artist.

	I am not saying that this person should not buy books on
furniture design.  I am only saying that I think it would be better to
use the "by-the-numbers" approach until some level of excellence is
achieved.  In the meantime, Woodsmith or Fine Woodworking rarely tell
you what tool to use for every cut.  They only tell you techniques
that they used for the more difficult cuts.  There's plenty of room to
experiment without having to draw your own plans.

Barry Smith
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Mason Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: first dovetails
Date: 16 Apr 92 13:50:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: evolving.1992Apr16.135047.41324
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.

thomas@BAEPV4.NCSU.EDU writes:
: 
: ...It turned out great.  I was able to actually hold a coversation 
: with my wife while I worked, and I didn't feel like I was losing half
: my hearing for not wearing ear plugs.  I think I might actually learn
: to like those ultra low voltage tools (chisels :) ).
: 

	When you get 'em glued up, sharpen your plane iron real good, and have
    another conversation with your wife while you trim them flush. And you
	don't even have to worry about cutting off your fingers!!!!

MMF
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov (Soren LaForce)
Subject: Re: Bent sawblade tooth
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
Reply-To: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov
Organization: NASA-Ames Research Center
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:28:59 GMT

In article <1992Apr12.201656.26686@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, au455@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Douglas S. Caprette) writes...
> 
>In a previous article, mckim@sdd.hp.com (Jim McKim) says:
> 

Stuff deleted.



>bad news to have the carbide tip fly off and hit you in the face.  A
>safe
>approach would be to grind off the bend tooth, tip and all, leaving a
>gap between adjacent teeth.  Chances are very good that this will not
>disturb the ballance enough to be noticeable.  Let us know what you try,
>and how it works.
> 

To maintain ballance, you could grind off two (or three, depending on the 
blade) teeth.  Just grind teeth at 180 (or 120) degree intervals.

The tooth removal suggestion sounds good to me, just with I'd thought of
it!


--Soren            laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov
From: rollend@rocket.sanders.lockheed.com (Matt Rollender)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Conditions at Tuckerman's Ravine ?
Date: 8 Apr 92 16:24:47 GMT
Reply-To: rollend@rocket.sanders.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: Lockheed Sanders, Inc.
In-reply-to: dsb@gtx.ummed.edu's message of 7 Apr 92 19:56:11 GMT

In article <1992Apr7.195612.22083@vision.ummed.edu> dsb@gtx.ummed.edu (Douglas S. Bowman) writes:

>   Does anyone know the conditions up at Tuckerman's Ravine ?
>   The rumor is that there is an avalanche danger now....
>   Any idea which sections are open ?
>
>   Thanks in advance

Yup,
	That rumor is true. They've had alot of snow in the past 
8 or 9 days and things are pretty unstable. They (the Park Service)
are discouraging people from skiing the headwall, however, Hillman's,
the little headwall, and Sherbourne are considered "moderately" safe 
(whatever that's supposed to mean).
	The word is that is the snow stops and the weather stays warm,
it will be safe to ski on the weekend. Call Friday, late am - they
will be checking out the area and have more inof available.

Phone # for conditions is (603) 466-2713

--
Matthew Rollender                               Lockheed Sanders Inc.
Senior Engineer                                 144 Daniel Webster Hwy.
Signal Processing Center of Technology          Mail Stop MER24-1583C
                                                Merrimack, NH.  03054  

  (usenet)      ...!uunet!rocket!rollend        phone (603) 885-3977
  (internet)    <rollend@rocket.sanders.com>
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Helmets
From: hugh@fivegl.co.nz (Hugh Grierson)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 22:28:56 GMT
Reply-To: hugh@fivegl.co.nz (Hugh Grierson)
Organization: Task Management Ltd, Auckland, New Zealand

>In article <122930120@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> brown@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (John Brown) writes:
>>Anyone know of a good distributer for reasonably priced, effective
>>helments for child skiers?  Most of the folks in ski shops in my area 
>>give me an odd look when I ask if they stock these.

Get them to chase up the Cebe distributer.  Their downhill helmets are
available in small sizes for children.  (Caveat may be the price).

-- 
-Hugh Grierson--hugh@fivegl.co.nz----------Go fast or go home----------------
-Task Management Ltd-Auckland-New Zealand-Ph:+64.9.5206109-Fax:+64.9.5206101-
From: klaus@captain-crunch.ai.mit.edu (Klaus B. Biggers)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Please help -- need new skis.
Date: 9 Apr 92 20:17:16 GMT
Article-I.D.: life.23250
Organization: MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory

In article <122930122@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> chapman@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Larry Chapman) writes:

>What are the best skis?

>Price is no object.


Mine!  How much you pay?  :)



-klaus                                              klaus@ced.utah.edu

_______________________________________________________________________________
From: harsant@headplant.trl.OZ.AU (Dave Harsant)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Followup on moving from intermediate to expert skiing
Date: 10 Apr 92 01:17:53 GMT
Organization: Telecom Research Labs,Melbourne, Australia

In article <122930111@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> bruno@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bruno Melli) writes:
>While we are on the subject of bumps. What kind of skis do you mogul
>maniacs like best ?
>
Well, I've tried a few, including Dynastar Verticals (the first model,
white).  They were softer than a slalom ski, I thought they were great
in the bumps and powder, but didn't perform on anything else. I
eventually broke one (upper metal layer cracked thropugh the toepiece
screw holes) after about 5 weeks skiing. I've also had Atomic SLs (the
bright blue ones from 1986), they weren't too bad, but you had to work
at them a lot, and sit on the tails a bit on the flat.  I demo'd the
black and yellow VR27s (about 1987, I think), and they were far too
stiff for the bumps, threw me all over the place.  I didn't like them
on groomed slopes either.  The K2 KVCs (1988) were a very good all
round ski.  My favourite at the moment is the Rossi 7S, they are great
in the bumps, as well as everything else, and after about 50 days still
feel very responsive.

The Verticals were fantastic for bumps, but they had a reputation for
breaking over here in our minefields.  I believe the design has changed
a bit since then, but I know a guy who has broken an Assault as well.

Actually, I'd love a pair of GS skis, but there's no point having them
here, our slopes are not long enough, and you shouldn't risk taking
them in the bumps.

>
>The same sales women also told me that skis are built to last about 120 days

I think this is rather optimistic if you are an aggressive bump skier, and
still want your ski to perform well out of the bumps.

--
Dave Harsant,
AOTC Telecommunications Research Laboratories  |  d.harsant@trl.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
From: morgan@xerox.jts (Morgan Jones )
Subject: Re: Skiing on ice...
Organization: /home/morgan/.organization
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 23:48:14 GMT

In article <martel.703168473@marvin> martel@marvin.mr.sintef.no (Paulo Martel) writes:

   I do I get a firm grip while turning on ice ? The steel edges of my skis
   do grip on the ice if I'm standing still, as long I tilt the skis enough.
   But it seems to me that the skis are lying too flat on the ice when I turn,
   causing sideways slide. This doesn't seem to be a problem for better skiers,
   they make fast, tight turns on ice with full grip. Any tips ?

IMHO, the best help in learning to ski on ice is learning to complete
your turns.  Most intermediate skiers get a little past the fall line
and then stop turning --- this makes their skis push snow and reduces
their speed.  Advanced skiers never stop turning; they turn as much
as they want and then immediately link into their next turn.  To slow
down, a more advanced skier will complete their turn to the point
where they are skiing uphill.

Intermediate skiers have problems on ice because when their skis stop
turning, they slip and lose their edge.  If you get a chance, get
yourself video'd (sp?) and see how far you get before your turns stop.


-- 
Morgan Jones           -    morgan@jts.com
From: psr@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Paul reynolds)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 00:56:23 GMT
Subject: Mt. Bachelor conditions?
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.skiing


Does anyone know the conditions at Mt. Bachelor?  Do they have
a closing date yet?

Thanks,
Paul
From: kent@cme.nist.gov (Ernie Kent)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Re: Question (Rolex)
Date: 16 Apr 92 13:25:22 GMT
Reply-To: kent@cme.nist.gov
Organization: National Institute of Standards and Technology

The problem with Rolex at Steamboat is that the designation it ought
to have varies. Basically, it's a medium-steep run which can often
have fairly large moguls, and gets a black. However, when the moguls
get sizeable, they groom it, whereupon it's just an upper range blue.
So, the different experiances reported depend on the day of the week.
It's probably best to give it a black - better I get dissapointed 
than a beginner gets hurt! (Under no circumstances should it be a
double black though, but I think they changed that a while back.
From: arose@cad626.intel.edu (Andy Rosenbaum ~)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: Colorado Condition this weekend?
Date: 2 Apr 92 18:01:25 GMT
Organization: Corporate CAD, INTeL Corporation, Santa Clara, CA


How are the snow and weather conditions in Colorado going to be 
this weekend? 

I'm interested in areas around Breckenridge.

I'd appreciate any info since I will be in the 
Breckenridge area on business this weekend

Thanks,

Andy 
Rosenbaum

Newsgroups: rec.skiing,rec.travel
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Tahoe in the Summer
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 16:56:05 GMT

Some one inquired about Tahoe in the summer.

Tahoe is actually far more crowded in the summer than in the winter.
That is when the region makes its money (gambling and vacationers).
A lot of water based activities (someone lives up there who waterskis in
the winter).

Cycling around the Lake is fun, but you have to watch out for tourist
drivers (rubber necking).  Shoulders are narrow in some areas, and bike paths
are frequently covered with winter sand.  The distance is about 75 miles
not including side trips.  Another development is the Tahoe Rim Trail
(about 150 miles when complete: I have walked, skied, driven, and biked (mnt)
75% of this trail/road system).

There are really only two remaining "wild" areas bordering on the Lake: one
in CA and one in NV.  The rest have scattered logging operations, homes
(private land, respect the property owner).  The region's economy is depressed.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Resident Cynic, Rock of Ages Home for Retired Hackers
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
This is the Usenet: do you expect anything other than gross generalizations?
Ref: Mathematics and Plausible Reasoning, vol. 1, G. Polya
From: simon@vesta.unm.edu (simon premoze)
Newsgroups: rec.skiing
Subject: X-C skis for sale
Keywords: ELAN
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:31:42 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.b9xjc#j
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque


		RACING CROSS COUNTRY SKIS FOR SALE

	ELAN SKIS
	length : 195 cm
	stiffness : MEDIUM (70 - 76 kg)
	base : base # 19
	style : SKATING
	
	Remarks : Skis were made in the Institute of ELAN which means that
		  they are unique in terms of construction (i.e. quality).
		  I raced four European Cup races in Biathlon.
	
	Reason for selling : need money for going back to Europe (to Slovenia)

	Information : simon@carina.unm.edu

			      or

			   Simon Premoze
			   1806 Sigma Chi Road
			   Albuquerque, NM 87106

	P.S. Hurry up, I am leaving in 3.5 weeks.