HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: andre@farside.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
Subject: Railnerds (was Re: Elektor Digital Controller)
Organization: Mentor Graphics
	<1992Apr16.120741.20201@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Date: 16 Apr 92 09:49:21

In article <1992Apr16.120741.20201@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> ggg9y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Garth G. Groff) writes:
   >RE: "Railnerds"

   >Excuse me, but I am not a "nerd" and I find such terms used on the
   >net to be distasteful and disrespectful.  If you can show respect
   >for net members, you are welcome to permanently log off.

Our first flamewar!!!  Seriously, I don't think he meant to offend anyone
or be distastefull or disrespectful.  Perhaps this is something they 
call everyone in Australia 8<) .  Let's all try to keep this a friendly
newsgroup ok?

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are solely my own, and do not necessarily reflect those
of my employer.

Andre' Hut       andre@slc.mentorg.com  or  utah-cs!caeco!andre
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: charlan@vax2.concordia.ca (M.CHARLAND)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Cambridge
Date: 9 Apr 92 02:18:00 GMT
Organization: Concordia University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


I will be in the Cambridge, MA area next weekend.  Can anyone suggest a hobby
shop where I can get N-scale track, etc.  In particular, I am interested in
finding switches at less than the Canadian price.  Is there a discount 
rail hobby market in the USA?

Thanks  
From: js@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jon Sawyer)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 17:17:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Helix headaches
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
From: ggg9y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Garth G. Groff)
Subject: Re: Helix headaches
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 12:45:29 GMT

RE:  HELIX

Would it be possbile to make your bottom level a bit lower to avoid
the head clonking problem and those 18" radius curves?  I think you 
will be sorry if you drop to 18" radius.  You will be limited to 
small steam locomotives (which won't pull much on those 2% grades), 
diesels and short cars (no auto racks or full-length passenger cars).
Unless you are building a logging road or narrow gauge, keep your
minimum radius to at least 20".  IMO.

--Haridas
From: 1k1mgm@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu (Christopher Gunn)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Hacking Kadee-style couplers
Date: 13 Apr 92 16:16:36 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

Just how much trouble is it to mount Microtrain/Kadee 'N' scale couplers
on engines for which ready-made conversion kits are not available?

I got my hands on a freight car truck/coupler conversion kit a few
days ago and the difference in *appearance* is so great relative to
Rapido-style couplers that I'm tempted to switch over, but I've looked
over the Microtrain catalog and there are stock conversion kits for
NONE of the engines I've got (except maybe the Bachmann 4-8-4;  don't
have the list at work).

I'm a little reluctant to go after some medium-expensive locomotives
with Super Glue and an X-Acto knife without some serious guidance.
Any article or book references out there?

Christopher Gunn	Molecular Graphics and Modeling Lab
SPAN--KUPHSX::GUNN	Department of Medicinal Chemistry, Malott Hall
913-864-4428 or -4495	University of Kansas, Lawrence, KS  66045
From: andradee@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: Helix headaches
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 18:05:02 GMT

In article <204491@unix.cis.pitt.edu>, macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert) writes:
> In article <1992Apr6.095429.1@woods.ulowell.edu> andradee@woods.ulowell.edu writes:
>>In article <45460001@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>, js@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jon Sawyer) writes:

 I stand corrected. You were right. I do appoligies for the confusion over the
maker, but it has been a while since I looked at the box, and my brain is still
not used to thinking trains here at school. 
As to the repairability, I do not have any equipment, at the time I was in high
school and did not have the funds to invest in the equipment, and this way I
also know that the engine would run right.
Again, Sorry for the confusion on names!!!!

				Ed A.
From: patnaik@hemlock.nrl.navy.mil (Gopal Patnaik)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Fuzzy Grey Stuff
Date: 15 Apr 92 13:57:48 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Naval Research Laboratory
In-reply-to: schallen@possum.den.mmc.com's message of 14 Apr 92 22:25:20 GMT

I avoid the fuzzy stuff by cutting Homasote with a knife blade in my saber
saw.  Have several blades handy, as the get dull and break.

Gopal
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: jfarmer@fraser.sfu.ca (Jason Michael Farmer)
Subject: Mountains
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 21:36:06 GMT

What do people find the best for making hills, mountains, etc.  Paper mache?
Foam?  Something else?

Jason Farmer
jfarmer@whistler.sfu.ca

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: andre@farside.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
Subject: Roads (was Re: Mountains)
Followup-To: rec.models.railroad
Organization: Mentor Graphics
Date: 15 Apr 92 15:16:53

In article <6604@skye.ed.ac.uk> ken@aiai.ed.ac.uk (Ken Johnson) writes:
   >In article <jfarmer.703287366@sfu.ca> jfarmer@fraser.sfu.ca (Jason
   >Michael Farmer) writes:

   >>What do people find the best for making hills, mountains, etc.  Paper mache?
   >>Foam?  Something else?

   >I make a rough shape out of wet newspaper, with roads, house bases,
   >gardens, whatever, made of stiff cardboard.  Then I coat the lot with
   >two or three layers of Plaster of Paris bandages, which can be obtained
   >from model shops (in the UK, the brand name is Mod Rock).  The resulting
   >landscape takes paint well and looks superb. 

I like to use the back of asphalt roofing sheets for roads.  A little black
paint and/or flat coat makes it look very real.  After all, it *is* asphalt.

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are solely my own, and do not necessarily reflect those
of my employer.

Andre' Hut       andre@slc.mentorg.com  or  utah-cs!caeco!andre
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: pratta@aix02.hi.there (Anthony Edward Prattico)
Subject: Re: Mountains
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 17:33:41 GMT


	One very important point to consider is the size of the mountain. If
you are doing a "typical" large at the base, small at the top mountain, then
styrofoam is the way to go. However, if you want to do steep mountainsides
or very tall cliffs, you should use something stronger as a base. Rock
castings will not stick well to styrofoam. You can use pins or nails stuck 
into the foam at various angles to hold the castings, but they will rust and
can slide out easily. Also, cutting a large number of narrow foam strips is
a very tedious and messy process. Cliffs need to be very strong and struc- 
turally determinant, or a careless bump could shatter the entire cliff. I 
would recommend the traditional dipped paper towel or gauze method using
Hydrocal or some other strong plaster over a frame of some sort  for cliffs
and steep mountainsides, but foam is best for other areas.

	Probably the greatest benefit to foam is that modifications are very,
very easy. If your mountain or hill turns out too big, or you want to cut away
part for a new track or something, you just get out a knife and cut away the
old part, spread some new plaster and ground cover and you're done. Also, new
pieces are easily glued on to expand the secenery. Foam also makes planting
trees much easier, as you just poke holes in it with a screwdriver and stick
the tree in instead of having to drill holes. You can also not glue the foam
in place until you have added all of the trees, buildings, and details, and
glue everything in place at once. Doing a scene at the workbench is much
easier, especially if it will be installed in a hard to reach spot on the
layout.

	Hope this helps.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anthony Prattico    pratta@rpi.edu       Anthony_Prattico@mts.rpi.edu
Vice-president, New England, Berkshire, and Western Railroad
 
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: andre@farside.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
Subject: Re: Mountains
Organization: Mentor Graphics
Date: 15 Apr 92 10:00:56

In article <ANDRE.92Apr15094400@farside.slc.mentorg.com> andre@farside.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut) writes:
   >In article <jfarmer.703287366@sfu.ca> jfarmer@fraser.sfu.ca (Jason Michael Farmer) writes:
      >>What do people find the best for making hills, mountains, etc.  Paper mache?
      >>Foam?  Something else?

   >Sheets of styrafoam.
              ^^^^^^^^^
Before someone flames me:  Styrofoam.

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are solely my own, and do not necessarily reflect those
of my employer.

Andre' Hut       andre@slc.mentorg.com  or  utah-cs!caeco!andre
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: fasano@venus.iucf.indiana.edu (Matthew John Fasano)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: "operating accessories"
Date: 9 Apr 92 18:03:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: bronze.1992Apr9.180512.9797
Reply-To: fasano@venus.iucf.indiana.edu
Organization: IUCF
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4   
	I'm interested in building operating accessoreis for my model

railroad.  I'm particularly interested in crains and such to load
and unload the train cars.  I will probably scratch build most of them 
becuase I either can't afford them or they are not very reliable or 
work realisticly.
	I hope that many of you have tried making these types of things
or have discovered affordable equipment that works well.  This does not 
appear to be a very popular facet of the hobby because I don't see much in 
the literature.  Maybe some of you who do literature searches can do one 
to find operating accessories and post it here.
	I'll let you know how my pursuit to load and unload model 
train cars is going if I ever get anywhere.

					thanks
					Matt Fasano
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: wey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (william.e.yoder)
Subject: Re: Mountains
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 12:03:46 GMT

In article <12200@ns-mx.uiowa.edu>, jones@pyrite.cs.uiowa.edu (Douglas W. Jones,201H MLH,3193350740,3193382879) writes:
> From article <jfarmer.703287366@sfu.ca>,
> by jfarmer@fraser.sfu.ca (Jason Michael Farmer):
> 
> > What do people find the best for making hills, mountains, etc.  Paper
> > mache?  Foam?  Something else?
> 
> Sculptamold, an art product, is growing in popularity, particularly for
> finishing work on top of other surfaces such as hardshell or foam.  It
> is a cellulose based material, something of a high-tech paper mache, and
> the advantage it has over plaster is that it sets up slowly and can be
> worked and re-worked to get things right before it finally dries.

When using Scuptamold, add a couple drops of detergent to the water. This
will deter cockroaches from eating it. They think it is candy and will go
at it like crazy!!! You will find little white sploches all over it after 
a time from these insects. You can also add coloring to Sculptamold.

Bill Yoder
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: andradee@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: 6 axle Athearn diesel's
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:17:32 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.013600.126@tandem.com>, Baird_David@Tandem.com (David G. Baird) writes:
> In my experience, the Athearn SD-40T-2 (a six axle diesel) can negotiate
> a 22" radius turn, but with its body mounted coupler pockets, it
> cannot be coupled to anything, because the coupler extends over the
> outer rail on that curve. Forget 18" for six axle diesels. 22" is
> probably too little as well, unless you can mount the couplers onto
> the trucks. I don't know how to do that on Athearn locos.

Ok, all of my diesel's engines are Athearn. Most of my curves are 18". All of
my diesel's are six axle, and I have no problems. Two of my engines (PA1, and
PB1) are truck mounted couplers, and those I do not have any trouble with. I
also have a FP45, and two SD-40-2's which have frame mounted couplers, and I
have no problem. And this holds true to weither the object the engine is
coupled to has truck or frame mounted couples. I'm not sure what your problem
was, but I do not have any with my equipment.
	Till next time.....
				Ed A.
From: rdz@cci632.cci.com (Robert D. Zarcone)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: My F3 is 4F
Date: 10 Apr 92 18:05:15 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Computer Consoles Inc., Rochester, NY

I am having serious troubles with my Lionel Santa Fe F3 (circa 1956).
This engine was always my flagship, handling the heaviest loads at the
highest speeds.  It was then retired to the packing crate until I started
building a new layout.  Now that it is back in service, it has turned into
a dog.  It can barely move itself along the track, let alone any kind of
load.  Its sister engines are not suffering from the same problem, so I'm
convinced the troubles are with the unit itself.

I have oiled and cleaned everything I can get to.  So, what do I do now?

Rob Z.
From: Baird_David@Tandem.com (David G. Baird)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Helix headaches
Date: 8 Apr 92 01:36:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: tandem.1992Apr8.013600.126
Organization: Tandem Computers (Cupertino, CA)

In my experience, the Athearn SD-40T-2 (a six axle diesel) can negotiate
a 22" radius turn, but with its body mounted coupler pockets, it
cannot be coupled to anything, because the coupler extends over the
outer rail on that curve. Forget 18" for six axle diesels. 22" is
probably too little as well, unless you can mount the couplers onto
the trucks. I don't know how to do that on Athearn locos.

Somebody's previous response indicated that 18" circles meant > 5%
grade when going up 3" per loop. I think that it should be 3/pi*2*18
which is 2.7%. As someone else mentioned, you need more room than
3" because of at least the thickness of the wood, and some finger
room.

Good luck with your clearances
David "no signature" Baird }
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: railrd.sanders.lockheed.com (Mark Hilmantel)
Subject: Re: Helix headaches
Reply-To: hilmantl@rapnet.sanders.lockheed.com
Organization: Lockheed Sanders, Inc.
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 20:55:58 GMT

In article <45460001@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>,... writes:
> 
> Finally, for extra credit, do you know of any general rules or
> guidelines on selecting equipment to run on short radii?

The NMRA publishes Standards, Recommended Practices and Data Sheets
which cover almost every aspect of model railroading. One of the 
Recommended Practices (I don't have it handy) describes the types of 
equipment which work reliably on various radii. The recommendations
are extremely conservative. You can often make equipment run on 
sharper curves than those recommended, but it's a good place to start.

By the way, I highly recommend that everyone interested in model 
railroads (at least in North America) join the NMRA.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: andre@farside.slc.mentorg.com (Andre' Hut)
Subject: Re: 6 axle Athearn diesel's
Organization: Mentor Graphics
	<1992Apr8.101733.1@woods.ulowell.edu>
Date: 8 Apr 92 10:34:16

In article <1992Apr8.101733.1@woods.ulowell.edu> andradee@woods.ulowell.edu writes:
   >In article <1992Apr8.013600.126@tandem.com>, Baird_David@Tandem.com (David G. Baird) writes:
   >> In my experience, the Athearn SD-40T-2 (a six axle diesel) can negotiate
   >> a 22" radius turn, but with its body mounted coupler pockets, it
   >> cannot be coupled to anything, because the coupler extends over the
   >> outer rail on that curve. Forget 18" for six axle diesels. 22" is
   >> probably too little as well, unless you can mount the couplers onto
   >> the trucks. I don't know how to do that on Athearn locos.

   >Ok, all of my diesel's engines are Athearn. Most of my curves are 18". All of
   >my diesel's are six axle, and I have no problems. Two of my engines (PA1, and
   >PB1) are truck mounted couplers, and those I do not have any trouble with. I
   >also have a FP45, and two SD-40-2's which have frame mounted couplers, and I
   >have no problem. And this holds true to weither the object the engine is
   >coupled to has truck or frame mounted couples. I'm not sure what your problem
   >was, but I do not have any with my equipment.

Just to add my .02 worth...  I too have lots of six-axle equipment including 
Athearn SD-40T-2's.  I have no problems using this equipment on 18" curves.
I should add however, that I use KD couplers exclusively.  Try backing up a
60 car train sometime with horn-hooks...

--
-------------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions are solely my own, and do not necessarily reflect those
of my employer.

Andre' Hut       andre@slc.mentorg.com  or  utah-cs!caeco!andre
Mentor Graphics, Suite 300, 5295 South 300 West, Murray, Utah 84107
-------------------------------------------------------------------
From: craig@kralizec.zeta.org.au (Craig Dewick)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: Locos with slippery wheels
Date: 10 Apr 92 09:35:28 GMT
Organization: Kralizec Dialup Unix Sydney: +61-2-837-1183 V.32

bi045@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John A. Purbrick) writes:

>The problem results from a very shiny plating applied to the drivers, 
>essentially a mirror finish. They probably do this because a lot of owners of
>brass steam locomotives display them rather than operating them and textured 
>wheels don't look as good as gleaming ones. Is there a fix for this? 
>Wire-brush the wheels, or run them against a rough file till the plating is 
>removed, or at least rubbed until the surface is roughened?

You don't want to put a file ar anything highly abrasive anywhere near
the wheels unless you want them to act as grit, dust and dirt
collectors.
 
I'd suggest wire-brushing them, as this is not too abrasive, and it's
easy to make sure the entire running surface is worked on. I don't
think you will need to worry about maing sure the flange is done, just
the running surface.
 
The other alternative is to weight the model some more. With my model
locos, I use a system whereby I take the prototype weight in tonnes
(tons for you I suppose), and multiply by 5 to get a final model weight
in grams. This may sound excessive, but nothing has collapsed through
the baseboard of the layout, nor broken any bridges, at least not yet!!

>Sanding the rails has been suggested already.

Um, well, I won't comment on this one. The person that suggested this
should be terminated immediately!!
 
C ya later.... Craig.
From: mcghee@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Glenn McGhee)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 16:05:12 GMT
Subject: Seymour Johnson dies
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad

    All of you interested in the larger gauges, 7-1/2 inch gauge and 15 inch
gauge will be sadden to hear the following news.

    Seymour Johnson died Saturday April 4th at about 10:00 am.  Seymour's
health had been failing for the past year.  Seymour Johnson was the property
owner and driving force behind the 7-1/2" gauge Goleta Valey Railroad and the 
15" gauge Montecito and Pacific Railroad in Santa Barbara, California.  
No Funeral service has been planed as yet.

    The Goleta Valey Railroad Club will contimue with its plans to host the 
Annual Run scheduled for Friday through Sunday June 26-27-28th.

--
 Glenn McGhee  Hewlett-Packard Company                     _____
 Bldg. 53U/36  5301 Stevens Creek Blvd.         __  .  .    |DD|____T_
 408-553-2517  Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059      / _` |\/|C   |_ |_____|<
 HP0200/UX     glenn_mcghee@dtc.hp.com         \__| |  |-     @-@-@-oo\

Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: john@phobos.sscl.uwo.ca (John Tucker)
Subject: computer switch control
Organization: University of Western Ontario
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 1992 20:15:00 GMT

Hi, being new to this group, this may be FAQ but here I go anyways.

Has anyone done any work on using a PC to control an HO model railroad
set up?

A friend has a very large setup and wants me to try and computerize the
switching controls

Any info is welcome.

Post it, or e-mail me at sa_john@sscl.uwo.ca and I will summarize.
Thanks

Newsgroups: rec.windsurfing
From: aoldham@descartes.waterloo.edu (Alex Oldham)
Subject: Contact Lenses and Sunglasses Summary
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 15:47:03 GMT

Here is a list of all the messages posted about contact lenses and sunglasses.
The file is about 30K.

This file should also be available on the ftp site 'bears.ece.ucsb.edu' in
the 'pub/windsurf/threads' directory in a couple of days.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Article 2200 of rec.windsurfing:
Newsgroups: rec.windsurfing
From: aoldham@descartes.waterloo.edu (Alex Oldham)
Subject: Contact Lenses
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1992 19:12:04 GMT

I'm curious as to how many people wear contact lenses when windsurfing, and
if so, do you have any problems?

When I wear contact lenses and it's really blowin' (not too much in
Ontario :-}) I have a problem with water spray from the board and waves
blowing in my eyes.  I find I spend more time wiping my eyes clear on a
really windy day, than anything else.

Of course if I decide not to wear my contacts, I have the other problem of
not being able to see any rocks/scenery on the beach.

For the first time I plan to do some windsurfing on the ocean (Cape Hatteras)
and I wouldn't think salt water and contacts mix very well.

Just wondering if I'm the only 'blind' windsurfer that has this problem,
or if anyone has any good solutions.

Alex...



Article 2203 of rec.windsurfing:
From: gb0wbff@vm.tcs.tulane.edu
Newsgroups: rec.windsurfing
Subject: Re: Contact Lenses
Date: 30 Mar 92 20:20:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Mar30.202055.3081
Organization: Freeman School of Business, Tulane University
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-480]: boxorain.sob.tulane.edu

I wear the J&J disposable contacts and sail in both salt and fresh water with
only one problem.  If it is blowing, to me that's over 25mph, every once and
awhile one lense will slip off the center of my eye, so I lose sight in that
eye (my vision is 20/600 without lenses) but after 5 or 10 minutes the lense
recenters itself.  It usually happens in combination with a faceplant. :^)  :^)
  I have never lost a lense sailing.
						Rick Boebel


Article 2205 of rec.windsurfing:
From: drake@spot.Colorado.EDU (Linda Drake)
Newsgroups: rec.windsurfing
Subject: Re: Contact Lenses
Date: 31 Mar 92 00:16:57 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

I was nervous at first wearing my soft contacts, but they've worked out
much better than wearing glasses (I, too, can't see a thing without them).
I wear Spex sunglasses, which help keep the spray out of my eyes and are
also polarized, which I find great on the water.  I also found that salt
water irritates my eyes less than fresh water, which tends to make the contacts
'stick' to my eyes.  So far (knock on wood), I haven't lost a lens.  I do,
however, always have my glasses with me in case something happens. If
I could wear disposable lenses, I wouldn't have any concerns at all about
wearing contacts while windsurfing.

LInda Drake
University of Colorado, Boulder
drake_l@cubldr.Colorado.EDU



Article 2208 of rec.windsurfing: