HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jefftb@sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Subject: Re: seeking suggestion on sunroom/solorium
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 16:19:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.9 PL6]


  My nieghbor has something similar on their house and he claims the glass
  coating prevents plants from growwing well. Theirs has a heavy blue tint
  to the glass. I don't know if it blocks too much visable light out but 
  I think it was designed to block UV. It could be he has a brown thumb. 

     We have a small version on our house it is just a room with south faceing
     windows. Works well when the sun is out,but when the sun doesn't shine
     the large glass area is definitely a heat loss. It's nice for plant though.
     I wonder if it would help much if you spring for the low E coated glass
     I didn't. Does any one know about aftermarket low E films?

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: info on home plans/designs
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 20:22:06 GMT

From time to time, someone posts a query regarding where to get books
of home plans/designs.  I found that my local public library had a
fair number, as did your typical chain bookstore.  However, the most
extensive list I've seen was in October's Builder magazine -- 23 separate
designers (in an article on builders who use plan services and why; the rag
also routinely have ads from about 10 of 'em).  Time permits me to only
give the following info (typos mine):

Frank Betz Assoc	404-431-0888
Bloodgood Sharp Buster	800-752-6728
Builder's Choice	800-523-2772
L.M. Bruinier		503-246-3022
Caddhomes		800-722-2432
Custom Creations	800-359-2561
Danze & Davis Arch	800-749-0715
Design Basics		800-947-7526
Design Collaborative	800-999-6216
Design Traditions	800-274-2444
W.D. Farmer		404-934-7380
Fillmore Design		405-843-5456
Donald A Gardner	800-388-7580
Home Plan Reviews	800-992-3856
Home Planners		800-322-6797
J&G Homestyles		817-473-8448
New Ventures		402-421-1186
Paradigm Shift		206-432-8122
PlansAmerica		800-241-5012
Princeton Plans		609-924-9655
Select Home Designs	800-663-6739
Rick Thompson Arch	404-892-2012
Gary Weaver Inc		317-575-9755

The idea here is that you put out a few $$ to get their books, choose a
plan that you like as is or can modify reasonably, then buy their full set
of house plans for much $$ less than having an architect or draftsman
do your home from scratch.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: "balancing" a power panel
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 17:56:25 GMT

My electrician, my wife, and I walked around the house indicating where
we wanted light switches, light fixtures, outlets, telephone, and TV hookups.
Then he started working out circuits and where they would be on the power
panel.  He mentioned that he had to "balance" the panel.

What does "balancing" a power panel mean?  Why is it necessary?  How
is it typically accomplished?  Yes, I know I can ask my electrician,
but the Net often has many gems of wisdom which I would not get from
a non-talkative tradesman.  Thx.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
From: jordan@IMSI.COM (Jordan Hayes)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Sealing exposed brick (interior) ?
Date: 29 Dec 92 20:01:53 GMT
Organization: Investment Management Services Inc., NYC

I looked at a loft the other day where the exposed brickwork inside was
about 60 years old, and some of it was quite dusty.  Could someone
expect to seal this brick in such a way as to keep the dust down?

Thanks.

/jordan
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jfw@jfwhome.FUNHOUSE.COM (John F. Woods)
Subject: Re: How to go low?
Organization: Misanthropes-R-Us
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 03:45:25 GMT

In <Bzy0wq.6yE@boi.hp.com> bobpassl@boi.hp.com (Bob Passell) writes:
>I have my house on the market, priced $100 dollars below the nearest
>$100,000 that I think its worth (hint: way less than 1/2 million, that's for
>sure ;-> ). My realtor says that I need to go to $?79,900 in order to sell
>it. Personally, I think she's wrong, and I have some measure of respect for
>her telling me news that I don't want to hear. However...
>I think we could "drift" down a little, to $?94,300 for a while before going
>to $?79,900 as she suggests. She is adamant that this will only bring
>disaster, but she won't explain why.

I'd bet pretty heavily on the "contract is expiring" explanation, but
a possible reason why several cuts like that might not be good:  househunters
who scan the listings every week who saw the original listing and said,
"well, that sounds like a nice house, but the price is way out of my league",
may see the subsequent adjustments and think "they're desparate, what's
wrong with it?"  Drifting down in multiple increments gives more opportunities
for people to compare last week's price with this week :-).  On the other hand,
seeing it come down $20K all at once (depending on what fraction of the total
that is) might lead some to think "what happened, did the roof suddenly fall
in?", but at least there aren't going to be further changes to scare off future
waves of potential buyers; a large change may also convince some people that
you're in a hurry.

That is an impression I've gotten from a number of cases while househunting.
I'm not necessarily a statistically valid sample ;-).
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: blk@mitre.org (Brian L. Kahn)
Subject: Re: Any opinions on "The Big Green Clean Machine?"
Organization: The MITRE Corp. Bedford, MA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 18:11:35 GMT


I haven't checked the figures, but something to consider:
Other Bissell products might be a better value.  Bissell has been
making rug cleaners for a while, and makes other models.  The big
green has lots of adverts, the other models don't.  Is there really
a difference? 

--
B<   Brian Kahn   blk@mitre.org   "may the farce be with you"
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: "balancing" a power panel
Date: 31 Dec 1992 18:23:46 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: grissom.larc.nasa.gov

In article <CARL.92Dec31122943@atlantis.Cayman.COM> carl@Cayman.COM (Carl Heinzl) writes:
>
>Most of these "Main Breakers" have both side tied together (with a
>little bar going across both breakers) so if one "half" trips, they
>both trip.  I've never seen "half" of a house going out.

You've never used Federal circuit breakers, have you?
--scott
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: I was dive bombed by a bat!
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 03:49:49 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.234448.2382@advtech.uswest.com> jsims@uswest.com (John Sims) writes:
>
>I opened a window and tried to get it to leave.  The bat refused
>to leave and has now gone to bat heaven.  (Hey, I tried to get it to leave :-)
> What would a bat nest look like and what should I do if I find one?

If you find a "nest" this time of year and just can't bring yourself to
coexist with them, it would be kindest to kill them humanely where they
are. They keep a high body temperature when active, and they'll freeze
to death if you evict them during the winter.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Society calls everything difficult good
                    | and makes everything good difficult.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: callahanj@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: burning coal in a wood stove?
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 21:49:08 GMT

We have enjoyed the Scandia 900 woodstove in our house this fall and winter. 
It was there when we bought it this summer and have been experimenting with it. 
It does a pretty good job heating the main rooms.  Certainly it is fun to fuss
with through the evening.

My uncle has nut coal that he no longer needs.  he says I can use it in the
woods stove as he did for years at the old homestead (his stove was a kitchen
variety 1903 Crawford).  Does anyone else burn coal in a Scandia?  Any advice
pro or con about burning coal and wood together?  We generally start off with a
wood fire and add a little coal.  Seems to burn away through the evening.

Any coal users out there with advice?

John Callahan	Callahan@libvax.ulowell.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: wouk@alumni.cs.colorado.edu (Arthur Wouk)
Subject: Re: How to go low?
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 06:06:14 GMT

In article <1992Dec28.230249.10178@i88.isc.com> jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:

>
>The fact that there has been a lot of activity and you are getting
>showings indicates that the price isn't too far out of line - if it
>was, the realtors wouldn't waste their time with showings.
>-- 

this is not clear. some realtors will, some won't. if they think the
price is really ridiculous, they  may tell the prospective buyer, and
you will get a low ball offer from them. i always low ball when
buying, anyway. it makes the negotiations more interesting. however, i
don't go much farther below the expected settling price than it is
below the asking price. makes the seller feel better. have to avoid
the seller refusing to talk.
-- 
arthur wouk 
internet: wouk@alumni.cs.colorado.edu
From: vonzelow@adobe.com (Jon von Zelowitz)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Drywall Repair Questions
Date: 31 Dec 92 21:59:06 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

In article <1992Dec29.143654.12316@nynexst.com> smierch@fun.com writes:
>2) In a couple places where drywall sheets butt together, the horizontal
>   joint is visible as a raised line on the wall.

I believe this is an example of why some people say not to hang the
sheets horizontally. Since you can only fasten those horizontal edges
every 16", and there is nothing holding the panels down except at
those points, there is more chance of bumpy joints.

   Jon von Zelowitz   vonzelow@mv.us.adobe.com   ...uunet!adobe!vonzelow
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: af905@yfn.ysu.edu (Ed Shanks)
Subject: Re: Gas Logs (Was Re: Maybe you can get FREE gas logs!)
Organization: Youngstown State University/Youngstown Free-Net
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:40:18 GMT


Jeffery H. Miller writes:
>Are you certain that the flue cracks are not dangerous when you
>use gas logs? You don't have to worry about creosote building up
>in cracks but you do have to worry about heat going where it is
>not supposed to. Does anyone know if this is a valid concern?

Yes.   If Sparky has cracks in the flue he should have them
repaired before burning anything in the fireplace. Not only
will a breach in the integrity of the flue lining cause heat
to escape, but also carbon monoxide and other toxic and/or
dangerous gases will escape into the living area. At least I'd
buy one of those CO monitors seen on TV (looks like a fuzzy
button, changes color when exposed to CO) and put it in rooms
adjacent to the chimney. 
I'm a professional firefighter, so believe me when I say this
is a serious problem. 
(BTW, creosote doesn't build up in cracks, it sort of condenses
on the walls of the chimney. It does leak out the cracks, tho.)

-- 
        Ed Shanks      af905@yfn.ysu.edu
"Whattaya mean I'll be cut off in 5 minutes? I just got started!"
From: lawler@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Gerald Lawler)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: MICROWAVE OVEN PROBLEM
Date: 23 Dec 92 12:13:42 GMT
Reply-To: lawler@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Gerald Lawler)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD


     I have a Magic Chef microwave oven (MVP II Model VM10B-7P) that
just quit on me.  This model is one of those which is located above
the stove and is built into the hood for the stove.  The oven is 7
years old.

     The oven broke when I just had started heating a cup of water.
I closed the oven door, set the timer, and hit time cook.  The oven
ran for about 3 seconds and then quit, although the timer continued
to function.  There were no unusual noises when the oven quit.
The oven light still comes on when you open the door, but does not
come on when you hit time cook.  The clock and timer continue to work
but there is no noise at all when you hit time cook.  A day or two
before this problem occurred, I noticed that sometimes when you closed
the door, the oven light remained on.  If you re-closed the door, or
pushed on it a little harder, the light would then go off.

    Assumming I will need a repairman to fix this problem, is there
a way to remove the oven from the hood without removing the entire
hood assembly from the cabinet above.  I noticed when you remove the
upper grill (the one you have to remove when you change the light bulb)
that there are two screws which seem to connect the oven to the hood
assembly.  If I remove these screws, will the oven slide out of the
assembly or will it come crashing down onto my gas range?  Are there
other screws which may have to be removed?

   Any help which this problem would be greatly appreciated.

   Gerry Lawler      e-mail:   lawler@oasys.dt.navy.mil
		     phone  301 227-1788 work
			    703 455-6475 home
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: grant@mks.com (Grant Millard)
Subject: Re: Bread Makers
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 23:32:38 GMT

(Jennifer Kay) writes:
>
>I would recommend against buying a bread machine. We own one of the 
>Welbuilt types, and it does an _OK_ job some of the time. I often do 
>what one other poster does and just use it to prepare the dough, and
>then transfer it to another pan. 
>
	...and then again I know of two families who use the Welbilt
	breadmaker and consider them dream machines. The loaves are
	round but this is kinda nice. Makes it obvious this ain't
	store-bought.

	Then again, having eaten more than a slice or two of the
	product, there isn't much chance of that. I've been especially
	happy to see the device can produce some extremely dense seed
	loaves such as we tasted this past weekend.

	I am hoping to be able to get one of these for my wife this
	XMas 'cause we are both so impressed with the devices. Looks
	like R2-D2 and sounds like a heavy duty pencil sharpener when
	it's running but joy, oh joy when the bread comes out.

	Sorry to hear you've had no similar success. It's certainly
	proven a treat to me!  :-)

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Grant Millard, DI aka THUG          |MKS|                        grant@mks.com
Manager, Internal System Services   |ISS|                        (519)884-2251 
Mortice Kern Systems Inc.           |RFM| Std. waiver of liability on opinions 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cthorne@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Charles E Thorne)
Subject: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:33:56 GMT

In article <1gstivINNfnb@sixgun.East.Sun.COM> egreen@east.sun.com writes:
>In article IFA@magpie.nycenet.edu, manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes) writes:
>>Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher (egreen@east.sun.com) wrote:
>>: Compared with other professions, where fudicial, moral, and ethical
>>: loyalty between the professional and his client are clear, the RE
>>: industry has *institutionalized* a system whereby there is a huge
>>: potential for abuse.

>>A real estate agent is a salesman, plain and simple, and
>>is no more "morally bankrupt" than the guy who sells you a suit or
>>a mutual fund or patio furniture or Kawasaki Ninja or WHATEVER. 

>Really?  When was the last time a patio furniture salesman drove you
>all over town looking at patio furniture, spent weekends discussing
>your patio with you, advised you on the resale value of your furniture,
>and purported to negotiate with the patio furniture manufacturer on
>your behalf?

>It is blatently obvious who the mutual fund or motorcycle salesman
>works for, where his loyalties lie, who is paying his commission, and
>whose interests he represents.  In the traditional model of the RE
>industry, such loyalty of the selling agent is not at all so clear, and
>there are many RE's who, at best, will not actively work to correct a
>buyer's mistaken impression that they are working for the buyer.

>>If you work for any company, in any kind of capacity, it is
>>also expected (on both sides) that when communicating with a potential
>>company client that you will varnish the truth in favor of the folks
>>who sign your paycheck even if it means being less than candid about
>>the flaws in your product.

One thing that is different about real estate is that unlike virtually
all other products, the sales person (or the person they work for) doesn't
usually own the product (the exception being a large home builder).  Thus
unlike a car sales person (whose boss owns the car you're negotiating
for), the real estate sales person is an agent (with an agency responsibility
to their client--the owner).  Any sub agent has this same responsibility.

The other difference is that real estate is (for most people) the largest
purchase they ever make.  It's also (for the seller) something they've
lived with for an average of about seven years -- sometimes more than
that--and there's a lot of emotion on both sides.  The seller realizes
some things don't necessarily work perfectly--but they still want top
dollar for "their" house.  The major reason for-sale-by-owner doesn't
work well is that the seller is too emotionally involved to negotiate
the "defects" in "their" home.

Things, of course, are changing, and it is possibly to get an agent to
represent the buyer, but a lot of changes (not just state laws) need to
occur, before the industry will change.

Charlie
Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems
Date: Tuesday, 29 Dec 1992 12:02:15 EST
From: Robert Chambers <RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: high-density insulation?
Distribution: na

In article <1992Dec28.190734.4109@phx.mcd.mot.com>, fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred
Christiansen) says:
>
>2) CertainTeed claims they have R-15 for 2x4 walls and R-21 for 2x6 walls
>   via "High Density" insulation.  Anyone have experience with these?
>   Do they work?  Is the cost increase linear to the R-factor increase?

I have used R-15 for 2x4 walls, the only reason I had to use it was
the towns wanky building codes.  Nobody around my house stocked it
since its quite an unusual size.  It works well, the room insulated
with it is very warm (has R-30 in the roof too).  I tried to find some
more last weekend for another project I'm doing but the only place
that used to carry it ran out and won't have any in until next month.
I'll just peel back a bit of R-19 and use that..  What the inspectors
don't know won't hurt me.


>I note that CertainTeed has R-30 and R-38 "HighDensity" batts with less
>loft than others, permitting an air space in cathedral ceiling applications.
>I also note that they have "sound control" insulation.  I wonder if this
>is *really* different that std stuff, or if it is just a rename gimmick so
>they can improve their margin.

I imagine most insulation will deaden sound somewhat, if it helps sell a
product by advertising the fact - why not?

>Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"

Robert
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron)
Subject: Professional carpet cleaning service or rental unit?
Organization: Motorola
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 08:45:38 GMT

We recently closed on our first house and need to do some cleaning before 
moving in.  The carpets are in good shape but the previous owner has a dog 
and we would like to get the carpets cleaned.  I have a couple of 
questions about this.
1.  Is it better to rent a carpet "steam cleaner" from the local super market
    or have a professional service come in and do it?  (Are cleaning fluids 
    the same and is the equipment comparable?)  
2.  If we have a professional do it then what questions should I ask 
    potential services (cleaning fluids, suction equipment etc...)?
3.  Should we go with the stain guard and other "extras"? 

Thanks for all your help in advance!!
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Glenn Gawron                          | Internet: ggawron@comm.mot.com|
|Motorola Central Systems Engineering  |    X.400: C10836@email.mot.com|
|1301 E. Algonquin Road - IL02 Rm 0436 |    Voice: (708) 538-3756      |
|Schaumburg, Illinois. 60196 USA       |      Fax: (708) 576-5640      |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
>> Disclaimer-Opinions expressed are those of the sender NOT Motorola <<
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jca@druwa.ATT.COM (Jill C. Arnson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: How to go low?
Date: 30 Dec 92 19:16:52 GMT

in article <1992Dec30.132351.4430@alw.nih.gov>, sullivan@alw.nih.gov (Jim Sullivan) says:
> 
> In article <Bzy0wq.6yE@boi.hp.com>, bobpassl@boi.hp.com (Bob Passell) writes:
> |> Another request for net.wisdom!
> |> 
> |> I have my house on the market, priced $100 dollars below
> |> the nearest $100,000 that I think its worth (hint: way less
> 
> One thing to keep in mind is that potential buyers are more than likely
> keeping to one figure and below (i.e. $180K or less) and hoping to get
> about 5% off the price through negotiation.  If your realtor thinks
	^^
> that your house will sell for $150K dollars, he will suggest a price 
> about $150K+5% (about 159.9K).  If you go much above this, say to $180K,
> then you will attract those who are looking for a $170-180K house but

	I agree with this to a point.  I think the range is closer to
10-15%.  When I was hous hunting, I wanted to spend about $100K, but was
willing to look at homes that were priced at 115,000.  Homes proced at 130,000
were deemed to be too much.
 
 
 
 
--
jill c. arnson		AT&T Bell Labs, Denver
jca@druwa.att.com
*** "When you climb high, remember that the beauty you see is only an
illusion created by G-d to keep your sanity."