HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jharres@doc.bmd.trw.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: WYEAST flavor differences
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:00:46 MST

Would someone explain what differences in flavor one would get using
the following WYEAST cultures given that nothing else was changed from
one batch to the next:

    Belgian Ale       #1214
    German Ale        #1007
    American Ale      #1056
    Irish Ale         ##1084
    British Ale       #1098
    European Ale      #1338
    London Ale        #1028

Realize that my experience has not included sampling some of the world's
real beers, so comparing flavors to existing brands is meaningless to me.

  I've been making batches using Muton & Fison dry yeast with various 
makes and styles of malt extract (all extract/no sugar).

Thanks for any help
Jim
  
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Another Pub for the list
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:06:42 GMT

In article 21750@inferno.rutgers.edu, zamick@inferno.rutgers.edu (Jonny the Z) writes:
>
>New Brunswick, New Jersey:
>
>Name: McCormicks 	Address: 266 Somerset Ave.

Is this place related to the McCormick's in Denver and Seattle?  If so,
it's worth checking out for the food alone.  Real Nice Places(tm).

>The selection of beers on tap is very nice. They have
>'cheap beer' for those of the undiscerning palate. (I don't know what
>it is, never drank it, and it really is listed as 'cheap beer').

Nice touch!

>While writing this post, I am sipping from a to-go container of
>Pilsner Urquell I picked up for inspiration.

Oh sure...rub it in.  That's OK...I have a keg of Gordon Biersch Bock
at home.  Nyah.

Looks like now I have _two_ reasons to go back to New Jersey!

have fun
gak

---
Richard Stueven       AHA# 22584 |----------|
Internet:            gak@wrs.com |----GO----| Oh, what heights we'll hit...
ATTMAIL: ...!attmail!gakhaus!gak |---SHARX--| On with the show!  This is it!
Cow Palace:            107/H/3-4 |----------|

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Laaglander ==> Explosion??? (was: Laaglander, India Pale Ale (report))
Keywords: laaglander, dry malt, amylase
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 15:01:38 GMT

In article <C1DLM4.KDu@cs.uiuc.edu>
 totty@flute.cs.uiuc.edu (Brian Totty) writes:

>	If fermentation has stopped, and no density change is observed
>	over several days, is it still unsafe to bottle?  Is the worry
>	that fermentation is actually occurring, but at a very slow rate?

I don't think that "very slow" fermentation is all that likely, but "stuck" 
fermentation is (which may be about the same, what is the difference 
between "stopped" and "very slow" anyway).

If fermentation stops prematurely, then you have to figure out what the 
reason is.  If it is simply because the yeast won't ferment any of the 
sugars left behind, you can relax and bottle.  If it stopped because the 
yeast can't ferment in the presence of that much alcohol, then you will have 
a hard time carbonating your bottles.  If it stopped because of a 
temperature shock or other temporary change in your brewing environment, 
then the yeast may start up again in the bottle and cause the bottles to 
explode.

Sometimes from extracts there are simpy not enough yeast nutrients in the 
wort, so the yeast stops early.  However, you probably won't add many 
nutrients when priming with corn sugar, so you can probably relax.  No 
guarantees, though.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: rrmcmil@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Robert McMillan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: request for old post: fast cranrasp/cranstraw wine
Keywords: cranrasp cranstraw refrigerator fast
Date: 27 Jan 93 02:33:03 GMT
Article-I.D.: ccu.C1Hr34.Buq
Distribution: na
Organization: Red River Community College, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

A month or two back I read a post on making wine from commercial
cranberry/raspberry/strawberry cocktails.  As I recall, it sounded
too easy and fast to be true, so I didn't save it at the time. 

Now I wish I had it.  Could some sober soul please email or repost?

Thanks in advance....


-- 
Rob McMillan, Instructor	  | You know it's time to flip the steaks
Mechanical Engineering Technology |    ... when your beer freezes over.
Red River Community College	  |  --------------------------------
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada        |       rrmcmil@ccu.umanitoba.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: new beer tastes too stong?!
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 13:13:18 GMT

In article <C16sB0.HrK@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
 amead@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Alan Mead) writes:

>I'm ready to bottle my first batch.  I drank the samples I pulled to
>measure the SG and the beer isn't bad...  But it does have a rather
>pronounced bitter edge to it.  I've read posts that imply that the beer
>will taste smoother with ageing.  Is this true?  How much ageing are we
>talking about?  

I expect that after a month in the bottle you won't think the bitterness is 
as pronounced.

>[Also, the descrepancy between the beginning and ending "potential
>alchohol" readings seem to imply that I've brewed weak (3%) beer.  The
>ending SG seems rather high (1.023).  Did I do something wrong?  I read
>a lot of posts about "starting" or "softening" dried yeast.  I just
>pitched (literally!) the yeast into the carboy and then stirred it up.
>Is that wrong?  I was using a kit, if that helps.]

Well, it is important to aerate or oxygenate the wort before pitching the 
yeast, as they want O2 during the phases before fermentation begins.  
Insufficient O2 can cause the fermentation to end early.

Another problem is that some kits do not have enough yeast nutrients in 
them (presumably too much corn sugar and not enough malt), which will also 
lead to an incomplete fermentation.

There are other possibilities (room got very cold overnight and shocked the 
yeast, for example).

Your beer will definitely taste weak and sweet.
On the dangerous side, the fermentation could start up again in the bottle 
and cause them to explode.  Hard to tell.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral)
Subject: Re: Aluminum Pots: good or bad
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 00:07:18 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA

In article <01050166.o8knn7@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>
>The pot is made of thick aluminum (about the thickness of Calphalon),
>and is a dull silvery color.  I acquired it from my mother, who was
>in the restaurant going-out-of-business a while ago, so I have no
>idea how much one of these would cost.  ($200 new?  $50 at an auction?)
>It's imprinted "Commercial Aluminum Cookware, Toledo Ohio" and has an
>NSF Testing Laboratory stamp on it.  I have never had any weird flavors,
>etc., as a result of using this fine, fine, pot.
>
>I keep hoping that someone who knows a little about food and metallurgy
>will post some information about aluminum alloys and cookware in general,
>as well as the food contact/cookware certification process. All I know about 
>aluminum is that it is almost always alloyed with *something*.
>


You're quite right about the alloying.  I'm not a metallurgist, but I know
some about it.  Pure aluminum is about as hard as lead.  Only when alloyed
does it exibit good strength.  BTW, Magnalite cookware is an aluminum-silicon-
magnesium alloy.  My knowledge of cookware certification is zero unfortunately.

OK, I did a little poking around in some of my reference books and found a
few Al alloys with 'cookware' or 'cooking utensils' listed as uses;

Alloy 1100  Al 99%     <(I stand corrected about the strength)
Alloy 3003  Mn 1.5%, Cu 0.05-0.20%, Al bal.
Alloy 5005  Mg 0.5-1.1%, Al bal.
Alloy 514.0  Mg 4%, Al bal.

Al=Aluminum, Mn=Manganese, Cu=Copper, Mg=Magnesium


Joe.
From: smmyers@foghorn.srv.pacbell.com (Sean Myers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: How about potatos ? (Can one make anything from them) ?
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:50:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: PacBell.1993Jan25.205058.25876
Organization: Pacific Bell OSSEM

In article <93025.135521U53644@uicvm.uic.edu>, <U53644@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
|> Ok, I've already heard that sprouting potatos are poisinous, that's not what
|> I'm asking about.
|> 
|> As anyone who has ever opened a Finnish cookbook knows, if cooked potatos are
|> held over low heat for a while (a matter of hours) the complex carbohydrates in
|> them start to break down into simpler sugars. (The resulting taste has been
|> compared to that of sweet potatos). Well, has anyone taken this further, and
|> made an analogue of beer from the resulting malted potatos ? It may sound gross
|> , but then, how appetizing does a drink made from fermented barley sound ?
|> 

     It doesn't sound gross at all, it sounds like vodka ;-)  Although I'm not
sure what process they go through to make the vodka (some distillation process
I'm sure), but it is made out of potatoes.


       _____  _____   ___   __  _       __  __ _____ ____  _____  _____ 
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  -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-
  + Sean M. Myers (smmyers@foghorn.srv.PacBell.COM) | WANTED...             +
  = Systems Analyst                                 |                       =
  + Operator Services                               |                       +
  = Software Engineering and Maintenance            |                       =
  + Pacific Bell (SRV complex) CA. USA              |                       +
  -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hamilk@vccnw01.its.rpi.edu (Kenneth Andrew Hamilton)
Subject: Re: Irish Moss - rec.crafts.brewing #9746
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:55:20 GMT

Reply-To: hamilk@rpi.edu
In article <1993Jan20.010640.18975@odin.corp.sgi.com>, amazon@sgi.com (Stormwind) writes:  
|> 
|> i brewed this batch up just last night.
|> the sticker on the front of the moss 
|> states (i'm paraphrasing here) "to be 
|> used in the reduction of chill haze, 
|> add 1 teaspoon for 5 gallons of beer".
|> essentially irish moss is supposed to 
|> bond with the (mumble mumble) proteins
|> and cause them to (mumble mumble) out
|> so that your beer doesn't go all cloudy
|> when it gets cold.
|> 
|> 			stormwind

Ah.  Thanks.  I am interested in trying this recipe out.  Let us know how it turns out.  By the way, where did you get the orange blossom honey?  I ask out of sheer laziness.  I've looked for it whilst grocery shopping, but haven`t put any real effort into it yet, and it would be easier for someone to just tell me. Unless you keep your own bees.

						Ken
From: rstern@col.hp.com (Richard Stern)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: WYEAST flavor differences
Date: 26 Jan 1993 20:04:39 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpcslb1.col.hp.com

malodah@srv.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl) writes:
> 
> >    Irish Ale         ##1084
> 
> Soft, round, malty;  the least attenuative of the Wyeast line.  Very
> nice for any cold-weather ale, at its best in stouts and Scots bitters.

I love this yeast for stouts and porters!

> >    London Ale        #1028
> 
> I've had a strange and intense relationship with this yeast for some
> years.  I swear to never touch it again nearly every time I use it, 
> but I keep coming back.  Complex, woody, tart, with strong mineral
> notes, this one will bite you horribly if you over-hop or if your water
> is high in carbonates.  If you avoid that Scylla and Charybdis, it
> produces ales of marvelous complexity and sophistication.  The
> greatest risk, and the greatest rewards, IMHO.  Most of the time
> you'll wish you'd used 1098 or 1056.  I've had the best results
> in porters.

I brewed a batch of Mild Ale using the AHA winning recipe from Zymurgy
as a template.  I had the pack of 1028 in the fridge, and since that
winning recipe used 1028 I figured ...

The resulting brew had me puzzled until now :-)!  I have to say I just
don't like it, but it doesn't seem contaminated and doesn't have the
taste of any fault that I can identify.  I think the above has given me
some clues.  My brew is certainly woody and has VERY strong mineral notes.
I had a feeling it was the yeast, and now I'm sure of it.  As you said,
I wish I'd used 1098 or 1056.  Maybe it will mellow with age??

Great flavor profile of the yeasts, Martin!  I think the main idea I
try to impress upon new brewers is the amount of flavor difference that
the different Wyeasts offer.  Most beginners just think in terms
of cleanliness when changing to Wyeast, but matching (or mis-matching)
yeasts to beer styles makes a HUGE difference.  Of course the 1056
seems to work pretty well for everything :-).

Richard Stern
rstern@col.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly)
Subject: Frozen Wyeast??
Date: 27 Jan 93 13:03:54 CST


Fellow Brewers,

I got a packet of Wyeast in the mail a while back, but it sat in my
garage for about 3 days at -10F or so.  By the time I got to it, it
was, needless to say, FROZEN SOLID!!!

Is this yeast usable anymore?  I know I can pop the packet and see if
it swells, but my concern is that freezing may have damaged the cells
somehow, making them mutant or something...

NOTE: I said _concern_, not the "w" word...

Matt K.

==============================================================================
kelly@els.cray.com                   |   Cray Research, Inc.
                                     |
Opinions expressed herein are just   |   "The world's fastest supercomputers".
that.                                |
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi)
Subject: Re: Aeration
Organization: 3M - St. Paul, MN  55144-1000 US
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 16:18:36 GMT

From article <1993Jan21.231910.10613@PacBell.COM>, by smmyers@foghorn.srv.pacbell.com (Sean Myers):
> 
> Lemme get this straight.  You aerate your wort before adding the yeast right ?
> 
>   -+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+--+=+-

Oxygen is needed for the yeast to respirate.  The oxygen should be added
when the wort is less than 85F or at least not hot.  Splashing or
introducing oxygen when the wort is hot is referred to as
hot-side aeration and is claimed to cause a darkening of the beer
and a cardboard taste.

It is not important if the yeast is added before or after aeration as
long as too much time does not elapsed (for other reasons such as
bacterial infection).

-- 
........................................................................
Steve Anastasi	        "Give a man a fish, and you can feed him for
smanastasi@mmm.com       a day.  Teach him to fish and you can tax him!"
St. Paul, Minnesota                 - hey, I wrote it!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gburton@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Garland O Burton)
Subject: list of mail order brew suppliers?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:36:57 GMT


is there such a beast anywhere?  my local brewshop charges 
14.50 for a 4 lb can of syrup and 12+ dollars for 3lb of dry
malt extract.

cheers,

gob!

-- 
gburton@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hh@uwasa.fi (Hannu Hirvonen)
Subject: Re: Ever heard of this beer?
Organization: University of Vaasa, Finland
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 14:39:12 GMT

Robert Gleason (gleason@scf16.scf.loral.com) wrote:
: 
: I'm trying to find out if I can buy a Dutch (I think) beer called Fax Fade
: in the SF Bay area. 

I think you want Faxe Fad, which is a Danish beer, and not all that bad
		      
-- 
--
    Hannu Hirvonen, Computer Centre, U of Vaasa  !  P.O. BOX 297
    hh@uwasa.fi       "Hee, gloz nich so, ey !"  !  SF-65101 Vaasa, Finland
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing,alt.beer
From: osicoop@bcars68a.bnr.ca (Doug Gould)
Subject: Re: To Scoop or Not to Scoop
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:01:11 GMT

In article <93026.202000U30585@uicvm.uic.edu> alan parman <U30585@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
>The book I have on beer brewing recommends scooping off the 'foam' from the
>top of the wort in the primary fermentation.  It claims that much of the
>very bitter oils from the hops is carried in this foam and that unless you
>do this you will get very bitter beer.  The book's suggested alternative is to
...
>Which method do you in netland use?  Do you add more hops and scoop?   Add less
>hops and don't scoop?   Other combinations?

As I understand it one should not "scoop" or skim the foam off of boiling wort.
While this foam may contain some nasty hop resins the foam also ( IMHO ) 
contains natural heading compounds from the malt. ( And possibly synthetic
heading compounds if you are using a kit. )  

Papazian suggests ( and in my experience he's right ) that one can easily
get rid of these by using a blow-off tube for primary fermentation.  The
hop resins should be in the icky brown stuff that collects around the
neck of the carboy and in the blow off bucket.  ( I'm not sure but if you 
use a larger primary fermentation vessel the resins may stick to the sides. ) 

>
>Does scooping remove other wanted stuff?  I am really interested in getting a
>strong hops 'nose' to the beer i.e. very aromatic, but not real bitter.  Is dry
>hopping the answer?
>
For EXCELLENT hop aroma dry hopping is the best solution.  I use hop plugs
in the secondary fermenter for best results, convenience and minimal risk of
infection.  ( by secondary fermentation the alcohol levels are higher ) I 
feel uneasy about contamination of fresh hops and hop pellets are quite messy.

>For a typical ale, say two cans extract in 5 gallons water, how much hops do
>you usually use and do you scoop?
>
What's a typical ale? :)  Generally I use 1.5 to 2oz hops for bittering and
0.5 to 1 oz  of my best hops near the end of the boil, with about 1/8 to 
1/2 oz. dry hopping.

>Next question: I found a bag of grain at my local brewshop labeled
> 'caramel 20'.  Is this the same as crystal malt?  What is the significance
>of the '20'.  It tasted slightly sweet like some stuff labled crystal malt
>and seemed to still contain the husks.
>

Most likely 20L (lovibond) Crystal Malt.

>Thanks in advance for your replies.  You may e-mail to me if you want to save
>bandwidth.
>
>AP [:{)

No Problem.

Doug Gould - BNR
/* The validity and value of what I'm saying is questionable,
and regardless, BNR is not responsible for anything I say. 
Unless they think it's of value, in which case they own it. */
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gummitch@techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Re: HELP!!! Wort seems dark for a light syrup.
Organization: TECHbooks --- Public Access UNIX --- (503) 220-0636
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 21:03:59 GMT

shaub@cs.uwp.edu (Jeffery Shaub) writes:


>Well, last night I made my first ever batch-o-brew and every thing seems fine.

>Except my wort sure seems dark.  I'm using 2 3lb cans of John Bull hopped
>"light" malt syrup, but the wort looks like a dark beer.  Will this
>lighten up during ferment or am I gonna have a heavy beer?

Two things to consider: First of all, you're presumably looking at your
wort in a glass carboy, so you're looking through five gallons (what, a
foot or more of beer) rather than through a glass so it's always going
to be darker there than when you drink it (unless, of course, you drink
all  5 gallons at a sitting).  Two, "light" malt syrup is a very vague
term.  One company's light is another company's amber.  If you want
_really_ light beer, stick to an American brand like Alexander's.
Several years ago I wrote an article for Zymurgy testing 10 or 12
extracts, all of which were supposed to be light.  The variation was
incredible, but in general they ranged from very light American, through
medium/light/amber British, up to the German brands which were quite
dark.  Anyway, you'll find that in brewing parlance, "light" or "pale"
means "not dark, particularly". 

In any case, beer _color_ isn't really an indication of whether the beer
is "heavy" or not.  The British, for example, make very low body, low
alcohol beers called "milds" which are generally brown; on the opposite
extreme, try a German "helles bock" sometime for a beer that's very pale
and yet has tons of body.


>Also, I'm using EDME dry yeast and the package says ferment at 65/75 deg.
>My basement only maintains a solid 60/62 deg.  Can I move the wort down
>there now that ferment has started or will this low temperature ruin the
>wort??

No. You will not "ruin" the wort.  The fermentation will not be as
vigorous or rapid as it would at a higher temperature, but this isn't
necessarily bad.  As a matter of fact, 75F is pushing it and you are
more likely to get off-flavors at _that_ temperature than at a lower
one.  (By the way, when you pitch your yeast, be sure you shake the
bejabbers out of the wort -- either when it goes in the carboy or
afterward -- to aerate it thoroughly.  One of the biggest problems new
brewers have is with fermentations that "stick", largely because there
wasn't adequate oxygen at the beginning of the ferment.  After it
starts, of course, you'll want to avoid adding any oxygen to the
fermenting or finished beer to prevent staling.)

Hope you enjoy brewing.

--Jeff Frane

>Any help greatly appreciated in advance.


>-- 
>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>    Jeff Shaub                   -     University of Wisconsin-Parkside
>    shaub@cs.uwp.edu             -     Computing Support Center
>    (414)595-2005                -     Kenosha, WI  53141
-- 
gummitch@techbook.COM  Public Access UNIX at (503) 220-0636 (1200/2400)
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:48:39 EST
From: Randy S. Whitney <RSW105@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: brewpubs in State college PA?

I don't know of any brewpubs here, but if you are looking for a place with
good brew try Zeno's on the corner of College and Allen downtown.  They have
120+ varieties to choose from in bottles as well 8 or so on tap.  I would
recommend Yuengling Porter as well as the Black and tan (porter and lager).
They are from a microbrewery located in Pottsville, PA.
--
 Randy S. Whitney                     %        rsw105@psuvm.psu.edu
 Student Consultant                   %         rsw105@psuvm.bitnet
 The Center For Academic Computing    %          rsw@wilbur.psu.edu
 The Pennsylvania State University    %      rsw105@copland.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gburton@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Garland O Burton)
Subject: what's the difference?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 06:58:27 GMT

I know that liquid yeast is said to be "more pure" than dry yeast,
but what is the difference as far as what the brew will taste like?
Or how long the fermentation process lasts, or how much alcohol
will be produced.  will the dry yeast crap out when there are still 
sugars to convert?

i know this may have been hashed out before.  sorry.

i am thinking of trying liquid for the first time.  what can i expect?

thanks & cheers,

gob!


-- 
gburton@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
From: JLOUIE@ere.fp.exxon.com (James Louie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Exotic beer sources in NJ
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:48:39 GMT
Organization: Exxon Research & Engineering

Can anyone recomend some good places in north and central NJ where I might 
find some of the more exotic labeled beers? Thanks!