HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: thorn@phoenix.radonc.unc.edu (Jesse Thorn)
Subject: Re: Paint age
Organization: Radiation Oncology, NCMH/UNC, Chapel Hill, NC
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 14:50:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.065546.26144@netcom.com> obrien@netcom.com (Robert O'Brien) writes:

>present, sometimes it just wont shake/stir properly.  I'd advise anyone
>with aged paint of any brand to put in into one of those paint-shakers
>(or make one from a pad-sander) for quite some time before opening it.
>If you're spraying, then I also reccommend letting it sit for a while
>after shaking. Stirring does not add as many bubbles as shaking, but
>shaking does not fool you by making bad paint *seem* to mix.

Low Cost Paint Mixer - your pants pocket. Before I airbrush paint I
simply carry the containers around with me in my pants pockets for a
day or two. This does a nice job of mixing even the oldest paint. And
it is free! 

--Jesse
From: aq479@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul E. Sincaglia)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Testors Acrylics
Date: 2 Jan 1993 17:37:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


I was recently passing through my local hobby shop and I noticed
that Testors now makes Model Master Acrylics.  Has anyone used 
these? How are they?

I prefer to use acrylics because of the easy clean-up in my 
apartment (no stong odors etc.)

How are they hand brushed and air brushed?


Thanks again modelers

skigs


-- 
If you find yourself on the side of the majority...

                         It is time to reform        -Mark Twain

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: kkuehl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (Kevin Kuehl)
Subject: Color for Soviet BRDM-2 and BRDM-3
Keywords:  BRDM, Soviet, Color
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 21:57:07 GMT


What would be an appropriate color for a Soviet BRDM-2 and BRDM-3?  I am
supposing that some sort of olive drab would be correct, but my photos
are only in black and white.  While I am at it, does anyone know of any
books besides the Concord Publications book on wheeled armored vehicles
dealing with the BRDM's and SA-9's?

Thanks a bunch!
-- 

Kevin Kuehl			AT&T Bell Labs
kevin.r.kuehl@att.com		Indian Hill
att!ihlpm!kkuehl		Naperville, IL
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: dynalys@tigger.jvnc.net (219 Wall Street)
Subject: New Painter
Summary: new member
Originator: dynalys@tigger.jvnc.net
Keywords: warhammer,fantasy,paint
Organization: JvNCnet
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 02:54:17 GMT


I just recently became an internet member and a new minature painter.  I paint  minatures for fantasy wargaming around middle ages time.  I play most of the type of wargames.

	I have been wondering for a while what is the difference between Citadels warhammer minatures and Ral Partha's dark and dangerous besides that Citadel
has minatures and Ral Partha doesn't.  Citadel is much more expensive for something minor like that can be bought seperatly for a few dollars.

Alex

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: paul@hagar.tdd.sj.nec.com (Paul Gordon  x3856)
Subject: Re: Tamiya T72M-1 Update + rumors
Organization: NEC-AM TDD, San Jose, California
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:57:20 GMT

In article <BzF0sL.LE0@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com> rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com (Randy J. Ray) writes:
>Well, Tony Englehart (of A.E.F. Designs) has actually purchased one of these.
>He got it mail-order through Ace Hobbies. It's retailing right around $50, give
>or take. He took it home, dragged out the hundreds of photos he has of various
>T-72's, and sadly came to the conclusion that it is 99% accurate, and the 
>remaining 1% is dimensional stuff indistinguishable in 1/35 scale. I say sadly
>because he does make money off of kit inaccuracies, after all. :-) Mark
>Persichetti of On The Mark Models brass sets is already working on vent screens
>and such. You can build a beautiful T-72 without his set, but when the price
>comes down (note that the Tiger I late version, M2A2 Bradley, and Challenger I
>Mk. 3 are all $20-$24 now) it will be worth adding to it.
>

  I bought this kit over the weekend - it is a work of art. Superb molding
and the detail is excellent. But the price!
  On the subject of detailing kits, has anyone compared the Eduard and
Entropy Maxim products. The Entropy Maxim version is three times the price
of the Eduard version.
  Also, what has happened to OnTheMark over the last year or so? There have
been no new releases. They were promising M1, BMP, etc detailing kits for
this year. Are they having financial problems?

>On a related note, it seems that there is some place nearby here that in fact
>has a T-72M-2(1990), a T-80SMT, and a BMP-3. Someplace "closer than you think,"
>and "government-controlled." That's all I could get. That, and the fact that
>the T-80 does in fact sport reactive armor, not passive as many people 
>(including Zaloga) thought.
>
>Randy
>-- 
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Randy J. Ray -- U S WEST IT/CSD                 rray@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com
>                                                           Phone: (303)595-2852
>"It's not denial. I'm just very selective about the reality I accept." --Calvin
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  Paul

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu
Subject: Want Datsun 240Z kit
Organization: Yale University
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 11:09:36 EST

I was told that Revell sold a plastic Datsun 240Z kit in about 1972.
If you have one to sell or know where I could buy one, please let me know.
Email me with price, condition, name, address, etc. at:
 
Kaplan@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.edu
 
I will be away after 12/23 and back on 1/4/93
 
                 Thanks,
                         Reid Kaplan
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: soc1070                         
Subject: On posting for sales & etc.
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Minnesota CIS
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:19:00 GMT

Hello!

I've been watching this group for awhile, as it is getting winterer and
I am thinking of digging out some of my kits as projects. [I the summer
I usually build & fly model rockets].

Anyway, while going through the boxes of unbuilt kits I have, I realised
there might be a market for some of the stuff, as I won't want/can't/don't
have time to build them all. Some of my kits I bought with the express idea
of finding a better home (I rarely see a good condition kit at a garage 
sale I don't buy - my wife hates it! :)  ).

1.Does anyone mind if I post a list of those kits I want to sell - mostly
I will take offers by email. One quick example: Monogram Combat Series
Armored Half-Track (PM155-150) w/five combat figures; circa 1966. Box in
good shape, instructions & decals. [Note: this is probably my oldest kit]

2. Is there an FAQ?

3. Is there any interest in a scale conversion utility for the Macintosh?
I have one in the works that I am programming and want to see how much
time I should put into it.

thanks

------
Tim Harincar				Millions long for immortality			
Central Minnesota 			who don't know what to do with
Association of Rocketry			themselves on a rainy Sunday 
soc1070@vx.cis.umn.edu			afternoon. -Susan Ertz
Xref: sparky rec.models.scale:706 alt.models:1402
From: urf@icl.se (Urban F)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale,alt.models
Subject: Re: F-4G camouflage (cross-post)
Date: 24 Dec 92 06:58:07 GMT
Organization: None. On USENET I speak only for myself.
X-Alt.reply-Address: n.g.u.fredriksson.swe2001@oasis.icl.co.uk

sheehan@ucs.indiana.edu (Mark C. Sheehan) writes:

>Hi. This is a cross-post from the AIRCRAFT@GREARN listserv. If any of you
>can help Ireneusz, please send direct e-mail to me and I'll cross-post it
>to that list. (I've lost his e-mail address or I'd give it to you.)

>Thanks.

>-Mark 
>==========================
>>Hi all! My questions is dedicated to aircraft camouflage specialists.
>>I'm going to make an F-4G Phantom II model, that was produced by
>>Italian firm Italeri. I have doubts about paints colours given by the
>>kit producer in assembly manual. F-4G 'Wild Weasel' is from 35th TRW
>>39th TFTS USAF, and the colours are as follows:
>>   camouflage: radome tan  - F.S. 33613
>>               dark green  - F.S. 34079
>>               olive drab  - F.S. 34087
>>   bottom is painted in flat white - F.S. 37675
>>Rather strange colour set.

This seems to me like they choose some colours that are close 
from a range of hobby colours, and then used _those_ colours' FS 
definitions.

>>
>>I've made a small research about Phantom camouflage painting and found
>>that colours could be like this:
>>   camouflage: sand        - F.S. 30219
>>               dark green  - F.S. 34079
>>               green       - F.S. 34102
>>   bottom:     light gray  - F.S. 36622
>>Am I right?
>>The only F-4 that looks like painted with use of radome tan is in 1992
>>Hasegawa Catalog, and it's an RF-4G of JSDAF.
>>
>                 Ireneusz Jakobik, Szczecin University - Poland
>============================ 

You are quite right in that the "Southeast Asia/Vietnam" scheme 
consists of 30219/34079/34102/36222. F-4:s in the "European I" 
scheme have a wraparound of 34079/34102/36081 (which differs from 
other aircraft that have either 34092/34102/36118 or 
34092/34102/36081).

But "European I" may be a too modern scheme for the decals that 
go with the kit.
--
 Urban Fredriksson  urf@icl.se  
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: jcowling@ophelia.UVic.CA (Scowling Jim Cowling)
Subject: Re: Acrylics
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 01:18:17 GMT

In article <1992Dec31.094334.2323@ucbeh.san.uc.edu> waldrop@ucbeh.san.uc.edu writes:
>Does anyone know if it is safe to use more than one brand of acrylic paint on
>the same model? For example, Tamiya and Polly-S? Also, does anyone know of a
>good silver or other metal color in acrylics?
>Thanks,
>Larry Waldrop

I've never had any problem using any two brands together (including Tamiya,
which has a different mix than other paints).

Try Ral Partha for good metallics; their Silver and Aged Metal colours are
great; so are The Armory's.

>waldrop@ucbeh.san.uc.edu 

-------
Scowling Jim Cowling
Professional Evil Person
Creative Writing Department, University of Victoria (opinions disassociated)
-------
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
From: thorn@phoenix.radonc.unc.edu (Jesse Thorn)
Subject: Re: SCRIBER FOR RECESSED PANEL LINES
Organization: Radiation Oncology, NCMH/UNC, Chapel Hill, NC
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 21:31:38 GMT


[ stuff about scribers scribers.... ]

I have the Squadron scriber and the Verlinden 1/48th scale scribing
template set. These are great for use on 1/48th scale aircraft and
worth the $25.

--Jesse "1/48 - The Scale of Kings" Thorn
From: augustho@aludra.usc.edu (August Horvath)
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Subject: Re: Acrylic paint: Opinions
Date: 3 Jan 1993 11:40:05 -0800
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu

In article <1i6v1dINN4db@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> aq479@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Paul E. Sincaglia) writes:
>
>In a previous post I asked about Tetors ne Model Master Acrylic
>line.  As I prefer using the water based paints, I would really
>like an assessment of all acrylic paints suitable for modeling
>rom all of you folks.
>
>Which of the paints are the best and the worst and for what 
>reasons......etc.

I have completely given up on the use of acrylic paints in my airbrush after 
a bad experience with Pactra flat black acrylic.  To put it simply, the paint
stuck to my airbrush's insides and neither water nor mineral-based thinners
nor alcohol nor ammonia nor any other horrible toxin that I could think of
has ever been able to get it off.  It came off the chromed parts of the
airbrush all right, but not the unfinished metal (i.e. all the important
parts).  This was the first paint I ever used in my new airbrush and that
may have contributed to the problem (perhaps airbrush metal gets sealed 
somehow by repeated use with enamels and their thinners).  The coating of
black paint does not seriously impede the functioning of the airbrush and
of course I have little concern that it will ever bleed into other paints
I'm using, so I'm not much upset anymore but from now on it's enamels only
in that airbrush as far as I'm concerned.

To make matters worse, I have found that although Pactra flat black sticks
to airbrushes, it does not stick to models!  It scratches off extraordinarily
easily.  I now use it only as a weathering wash, for which it is useful over
enamels because it doesn't lift off the paint underneath as a thinned enamel
would tend to do.

I assume that not many people have had this airbrush-sticking problem with
acrylics because if they had it would be common knowledge.  Why it happened
in my case remains a mystery.

august horvath <augustho@usc.edu>
Organization: Sophomore, Civil Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:59:59 -0500 
From: "Derrick J. Brashear" <db74+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: In today's paper...

CALUMET, Pa. - A small Mt. Pleaasnt Township, Westmoreland
County, factory that produces minature soldiers has emerged victorious
in a battle to overturn a New York ban on the distribution and sale of
its product.
New York State Supreme Court Justice Edward Spain has lifted the ban
on lead minature soldiers, ruling that the sale and distribution of the
figurines did not constitute a health danger to the public.
Spain's ruling clears the way for retailers to immediately resume
selling the toy soldiers in New York.
Russ Dunaway, owner of Old Glory Manufacturing Inc. located in the
village of Calumet, is delighted with the decision.
"Obviously, reason ruled," Dunaway said Saturday when he heard the
news.
Earlier last week, 12 employees of Old Glory sent depositions to be
entered as evidence at a hearing in Albany, N.Y. In their statements,
the employees attested to the safety of their product -- minature
soldiers which contain about 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead.
The Old Glory employees, who are tested for lead levels every six
months, also sent copies of blood tests taken at an area hospital.
"We never have high lead, never," Dunaway said.
The company was challenging an order issued Dec. 2 by New York Health
Commissioner Dr. Mark R. Chassin, who banned the sale of minature toy
soldiers containing lead.
Chassin claimed the replicas could cause lead poisoning in children.
However, Chassin's department admitted that none of the thousands of
lead poisoning cases it handles annually has ever been linked to
minature soldiers.
The Mt. Pleasant Township company can manufacture about 20,000
figures a day, sculpted in vivid detail. The unfinished figures are then
sent to hobby shops to be sold to collectors who hand paint and decorate
them.
Old Glory is currently finalizing a new line of figures from the
French and Indian War, based on the movie, "Last of the Mohicans."
From: romeo@niagara.Tymnet.COM (Michael Stimac)
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
Subject: Re: HO Train and Accessories Quality
Date: 31 Dec 92 20:15:56 GMT
Organization: BT North America (Tymnet)

In article <XNBNwB1w164w@stauff.UUCP> ed@stauff.UUCP (Edward L. Stauff) writes:
>abrown@vax.clarku.edu writes:
>
>> Hi out there! I'm new to the net and also just getting back into model rail-
>> roading. Need some advice. For the quality and the money, what are some brand
>
>DON'T use brass track.  Use nickel silver only.  Peco has a very good
>reputation (I use their switches in N scale).

lots of good advice elided....

>not the kind you see in book stores.  Books like "The Complete This" and "A
>Treasury of That" look good but don't contain the kind of detailed how-to
>information that you'll need, whereas books like "Practical Electronic
>Projects for Model Railroads" and "Realistic Model Railroad Scenery" are much
>more focused, complete, and reliable.  Both of those books should be on your
>short list, as should "Track Planning for Realistic Operation".  As a veteran

I'd strongly urge anyone planning a layout to get the _Track Planning
for Realistic Operation_ book.

As to this sort of book, I recently purchased _Easy-to-Build Electronic
Projects for Model Railroaders_ by Peter Throne. I'd like to warn
beginners to be wary of this book, because the information is
rather incomplete. Many of the projects described included circuit
diagrams, but no parts values ! The text includes references to
"parts lists", but there are in fact no parts lists. Unless you're
comfortable with scoping out a circuit diagram and guesstimating
parts values, this book won't be much help to you.

I suspect Kalmbach reprinted a bunch of Thorne magazine articles
to prepare this book, but (accidentally?) omitted much of the
artwork. Unfortunately, the artwork included the parts lists and
values. Kalmbach is usually much more to be depended upon than this.

I'm not criticizing the particular books recommended above.

Michael Stimac
-- 
Michael Stimac
(415) 355-8889
romeo@tymnet.com
These opinions are not necessarily anyone's but my own.
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: wes@uf.msc.edu (Wes Barris)
Subject: Re: Re: Bachmann motor
Reply-To: wes@msc.edu
Organization: AHPCRC, Minnesota Supercomputer Center
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 20:35:47 GMT

|> > A DC motor >relies on the current travelling in the same direction to 
|> >maintain a direction of rotation. If AC were applied to it, it would try to 
|> >oscillate. 
|> 
|> Not so!  1.  Many of these motors are "universals" that can run on AC or 
|> DC.  There may be a few odd-balls out there that do mess up, but it is not 
|> always obvious.   2.  Direction for a DC system depends on polarity.  I 
|> don't know how electronic reversers for AC work, just how to hook them 
|> up.  (The old AC motors with field windings reversed direction by reversing 
|> the order in which current flowed through the motor - field first, or 
|> brushes first.(

One of the main differences between motors one might find in Lionel (or other
AC based model train equipment) and HO is that in the AC motor a field coil
will be used whereas in a DC motor, a field magnet will be used.  When using
a field magnet there is no way to operate the motor with AC current.

I think your best bet is to find a replacement at a flea market or similar.

|> >Also, the motor detemines the current draw. The motor will not 
|> >draw 5 amps unless there is something seriously wrong with it. 
|> 
|> I know that!  The question was, can the motor handle that much current 
|> before it gets fried.  (Actually, the Baldwin is the one tinplate loco with 
|> a motor that couldn't handle enough load.  Although the motor windings might 
|> survive, the heat often melted the loco body or the brush solder.)

|> It would need to be able to take upwards of 5 amps AC without frying.

I doubt that any HO motor will be able to dissipate 5 amps of current drawn
for any sustained amount of time.  The component in question (the motor)
determines the current draw.
-- 
                                       o O O O O o o o o o o o o . . . . . . .
 __________    ___           ___      __                _
/_______|--`--|_ _|--=-==---|_ _|--,_|__|_             |-+-------`____________,
| ||_| /        -  |        / - \  |      || ________  |                      |
|_|___/------------|----__---------|------|||__|__|__| |Southern Pacific Lines|
|_|____________/-------{__}---------------{__}_______|=|_________     ________|
/_(o)=(o) ( )( )( )( ) [__]  ( )( )( )( ) [__]--(o)     (o)(o)(o)-----(o)(o)(o)
===============================================================================
Wes Barris                                                   PH: (612) 626-8090
Minnesota Supercomputer Center, Inc.                         Email: wes@msc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: berli@chx400.switch.ch (Martin Berli)
Subject: Narrow Gauge: 0n3
Organization: Swiss Academic and Research Network SWITCH
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 10:01:22 GMT

Hi,
I'm new to this newsgroup and hope to find people how like modelling
in 0n3. Currently I'm working on a "model of the model": A small
3-dimensional model of my future railroad. It will have a similar layout
as the first "Gorre & Daphetid" from John Allen.

If there is anyone who is experienced in 0n3, I would be happy to get an
answer on this posting.

  Martin Berli

  e-mail:  berli@switch.ch
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: Baird_David@Tandem.com (David G. Baird)
Subject: Re: Lambert 
Followup-To: rec.models.railroad
Organization: Tandem Computers (Cupertino, CA)
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 21:57:24 GMT

[ stuff about problems with Lambert deleted ]

> Unless you want to risk this kind of difficulty, do not order
> books or videos from Lambert in S. California.
> 
> Michael Stimac
> -- 

As was mentioned, they seem to go under different names for different
areas.
In particular, I believe the video business is called VideoRails. I have
ordered many VHS tapes from VideoRails, and I've been satisfied with the
service. They take orders over the phone, and get delivery out quickly.
I have been lucky enough to not have ordered anything out of stock, and
every order has gone smoothly. I am not willing to say avoid VideoRails,
because I think they have good prices and service.

DGB }
Newsgroups: rec.models.railroad
From: smb@research.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Code 70 track in HO
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 20:39:38 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

I'm contemplating laying a branchline in Code 70.  Can I get flextrack
and turnouts in that size?  One dealer I spoke with (at the Gingerbread
Shop, in Warren, NJ) said that he hadn't been able to get any in a
while.  I'm just starting work on my second HO layout (the mainline is
Walthers/Shinohara Code 83), and I don't think I'm quite ready to start
handlaying track yet.

Second, and more critical, what equipment won't run on Code 70?  I'm
modeling modern-era; there won't be any steam engines unless I decide
to sponsor railfan excursions -- and in that case, I could pick my
engine.  The likely motive power for the branch line is an Athearn SW7
or a Spectrum GE 70-tonner.  The rolling stock is a mix of Athearn,
Walthers, and (a few) MDC cars.  Everything has the original wheelsets,
though I'm willing to replace the wheels on the freight cars if
necessary.  I don't have, and I'm not likely to have, any AHM or
Rivarossi gear; I've heard that the flanges on their stuff won't handle
Code 70.