From: olaf@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Subject: Re: Info on Newfoundland
Organization: Memorial University. St.John's Nfld, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:35:16 GMT

In article <AMT.92Aug31141337@dunvegan.linus.mitre.org>, amt@linus.mitre.org (Anne Tallant) writes:
> 
> 
> My husband and I will be vacationing in Newfoundland during the first
> two weeks of October.  We are flying into Deer Lake and plan on hiking
> in Gros Morne National Park.  While we are familiar with New Brunswick,
> Nova Scotia, and PEI, we have never been to Newfoundland.  We also
> hope to visit the coast of Labrador along the strait.
> 
> I would appreciate information (esp. personal experiences) that anyone
> might like to share about this area.  We are most interested in learning
> about the people and culture, as well as experiencing the beauty of the land.
> 
> As on previous trips to the Maritimes, we have made no definite plans or
> reservations.  I know many things will be closed because it is off-season,
> but we are in the mood to explore.
> 
> It would be helpful to hear from others who have visited this area
> about what they found to be worthwhile to explore.
> 
> Please email or post.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> Anne
> amt@linus.mitre.org
> 
> --
> 
> 
> Anne Tallant
> MITRE Corporation
> 
> ARPA:  amt@linus.mitre.org
> UUCP:  ...{att,decvax,genrad,ll-xn,philabs,utzoo}!linus!amt

Gros Morne National Park offers a superb and varied landscape
with good trails and campgrounds; some of the camping is
seasonal, but Berry Hill might still be open in the fall. There
are also cabins and B&Bs at Rocky Harbour, Norris Point, and
Woody Point on the other side of Bonne Bay (I can get specific if
you wish). For information on park facilities, call the Visitor
Centre at (709) 458-2066 or the Park Administration at 458-2417
or 458-2418 (FAX: 458-2059). There's a three-km boardwalked trail
into Western Brook Pond. The pond itself is a 15 km land-locked
fjord that cuts deep into a gash in the shield wall with 2,000
foot cliffs on both sides of the lake. Unfortunately, the boat
tours that normally take visitors from one end of the lake to the
other are probably not operational in October. Still, the hike is
not difficult and the scenery is worth the effort. Indeed, if you
like hiking and natural scenery, this is the best place in
eastern North America. If there's time, try going around Bonne
Bay (the ferry might still be running, otherwise its a matter of
a one-hour or so drive) to visit the Tablelands. The Green
Gardens trail nearby is an all-day affair, and not groomed. Look
for "Best Hiking Trails in Western Newfoundland" by Keith Nicol
at souvenir stops, local shops, etc. for a reliable guide on
where to hike.

If you have time (a day up, a day back by car), L'Anse-aux-
Meadows near St. Anthony at the tip of the Great Northern
Peninsula might be worth the effort (paved road all the way).
It's the location of a medieval Norse habitation which has been
reconstructed by the National Parks Service and has since been
designated a World Heritage Site. I'm not sure about its hours,
so call the site at (709) 623-2608 (but remember the time
differences; we're one-and-a-half hours ahead of EST). There are
motels, B&Bs, and campgrounds in the area, though I'm not sure
about October, and even at the best of times the motels are
overpriced and underwhelming; the Vinland Motel is the most
conveniently located in St. Anthony, but for my money, the best
accommodations are at Gunner's Cove at Bella Hodge's "Valhalla
Lodge" (I kid you not!). It has six very clean rooms, has a nice
view, friendly atmosphere, and reasonable rates (S=$35, D=$45);
tel. 623-2018; breakfast is extra. It's about four or five km
from L'Anse aux Meadows, and about 12 km from St. Anthony. Bella
may not be open for business in October. A new bed-and-breakfast
at Cape Onion called Tickle Inn is supposed to be really nice,
but it is separated from L'Anse aux Meadows by the full loop
around Pistolet Bay. There is another very clean bed-and-
breakfast in St. Anthony itself, called The Old House (single,
$32; double, $38; $10 for each additional person; telephone
709-454-3794). It has three rooms; the address is 8 Balsam Drive,
St. Anthony A0K 4S0. The St. Anthony Motel (454-3200; FAX
454-2402) charges more: single $55; double $60), and so does the
Vinland Motel (454-8843; FAX 454-8468): single $47.50 up; double
$57.50 up. There's a free Travel Guide 1992 available at all
tourist information centres, which describes sights to see,
accommodations, etc.   There's also a provincial campground at
Pistolet Bay. Besides L'Anse aux Meadows, you might visit the
Grenfell House Museum and the International Grenfell Mission
craft shop. Not much else to see there.

It isn't clear whether your plans include St. John's, which is on
the other side of the island; it's cerftainly worth seeing, but
it takes a full day to get there. In St. John's, I recommend the
Prescott Inn Hotel, a B&B at 17-19 Military Road across from the
old garrison church. It's reasonable for St. John's ($45 single,
$55 double last I stayed there) and clean, and the people are
nice. The furnishings are antique but comfortable. Call (709)
753-6036. The Fort William can also be recommended (similar
prices and decor; call 726-3161 or fax 726-4525). I'll hold off
on further advice unless you indicate that you need it.

The provincial government is generous with information;
call them at (800) 563-6353. What to beware of in Newfoundland:
overpriced motels (they appear desperate to make 12 months worth
of income out of four months of tourist season), deep-fried foods
(if you have cholesterol problems, you'll go home in a casket:
that's the warning of Patrick O'Flaherty who has just written a
caustic but fun book on Newfoundland called "Come Near at Your
Peril"), and reconstituted milk (tinned milk is still a favourite
here). Compensating for the motels is a growing bed-and-breakfast
industry; some (like the ones I mentioned) are quite good; the
one in Cow Head north of Gros Morne is reputed to be colourful
(culturally) but generous and clean. I stayed at Mrs. Toope's in
St. Barbe and had what the Chinese might describe as an
"interesting" stay (avoid it!). The roads are good, but moose are
a serious problem, and every year visitors are killed in car-
moose accidents. Be extra careful in the evenings, mornings, and
especially at night. 

Bring sweaters and shells to be on the safe side. And if
you like to take slides instead of prints with your camera, stock
up before you come; film is pricey, and limited to Kodak (Fuji
print film is reasonably available, but not their slide film).

Hope this helps.

Olaf Janzen
Department of History
Sir Wilfred Grenfell College
Corner Brook, Newfoundland
A2H 6P9

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