HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dh3q+@andrew.cmu.edu (Daniel U. Holbrook)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Taurus engine racing
Date: 7 Oct 92 17:00:09 GMT
Organization: Doctoral student, History, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Hello there - 

I ahev an unusual problem that has defied both my and my mechanics best
efforts.  The engine in my 1986 Taurus, 2.5 liter four, intermittently
races out of control, rising to and staying at 4000-4500 rpm.  It
started this about six months ago.  The first time, it quit it when I
kicked the throttle a couple of times - sticky linkage, thought I, and
sprayed it good with WD-40.  The problem recurred some days later -
opened the hood, jiggled around with the throttle linkage, presto, the
problem went away, at least for the next couple of days.  It happened
again, this time no amount of fiddling, spraying, etc. helped.  It did
go away spontaneously, driving fine for a couple of days.  It happened
again, and thinking that this intermittent problem might be due to some
electrical glitch in the cruise control, I unhooked the little chain
that connects the cruise control to the throttle linkage (there is no
separate fuse for the cruise control).  The problem went away, for a
month and a half.  Now it is back, so it was not the cruise control. 
The engine, of course, will not act up for the mechanic.  Oh, I should
mention that the problem does not seem to occur at any particular time,
i.e. hot engine, cold engine, warm engine, etc.

Our current ideas:  something is awry with the electronic engine control
module; some sensor (air flow?) is wacky, and tells the computer to gas
it up; loose wire somewhere in the engine control system.  Basically, it
has to be in the engine control system, no?  we checked, and there have
been no recalls or service bulletins related to this particular problem,
though there have been a lot of recalls/service bulletins for this
engine in general.  I will say that I have had absolutely no other
problems with this engine, now at 107,000 mostly highway miles.  

This problem is potentially hazardous, as the problem will sometimes
occur in the middle of traffic.  I would appreciate any help with this
at all.

Thanks,

Dan Holbrook
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Why not a Taurus SHO Wagon??
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 21:33:47 GMT

Re: SHO wagons and why not, citing hurting the image of the car w/a wagon:

>In article <1992Oct8.012318.26186@leland.Stanford.EDU>
tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>...audi 200 quattro station wagon.

>In article 1343@morrow.stanford.edu, ari@leland.Stanford.EDU
(Ari Ollikainen) writes:
>...Not to mention the Volvo TURBO wagons...

In article <1b1b29INNlad@seven-up.East.Sun.COM>
jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM writes:
>Keep on going, I'll tell you when you've found a valid comparison. :-)

Amen to that! The thought of the typical two-hander wagon crowd with >200hp
so they can "go fast" scares the shit outta me.

	-Kenny

-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	    "Motor oil?!?! <splut> YOU GAVE ME MOTOR OIL?!?!"
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Two articles on seat belts
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:03:54 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos, smith@ctron.com (Larry Smith) writes:
>In article <26355@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense) write

>The 4th Amendment, regrettably, is only in force when the gov't lacks
>justification for taking your property away.  Did it stop Connecticutt
>from taking away radar detectors?  Will it slow down the IRS if you don't

It stopped Virginia. They now don't even hold them until the court date,
and it's legal to own one, but not to have it hooked up.

>As I say, I don't think that is so easily accomplished without imperiling
>medical care for people who _do_ use seatbelts, as I outlined in my last
>post.

I don't see how. A person who used a seat belt is often easily recognizable
as such at the scene, as belts are usually still attached if they're
injured. The medics or officers know whether this is so, and can then
act accordingly. If there was no seat belt, then they can quite possible
locate the insurance card, or maybe even a bracelet, like those with
special medical needs wear.

Ron                          Think about this one (seen on a bumper sticker):
			     The road to hell is bumper-to-bumper
			     Make a U-turn to God.
The irony is priceless.
From: finnegan@invader.navo.navy.mil (Kenneth Finnegan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Corrado SLC or 325is? CORRECTION
Date: 15 Oct 92 15:25:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Oct15.152506.28690
Reply-To: finnegan@navo.navy.mil
Organization: Grumman Data Systems
Nntp-Posting-Host-[nntpd-24205]: invader.navo.navy.mil

In article <Oct.14.17.04.46.1992.20841@athos.rutgers.edu>, trudel@athos.rutgers.edu (Jonathan) writes:
|> humpty@tartarus.uwa.edu.au (Daniel Ong) writes:
|> >>>In rec.autos, cf947@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Chun-Hung Wan) writes:
|> >>>   I am thinking of buying either a BMW 325is coupe or VW Corrado VR6 soon.
|> >      I have been an owner of a couple of bimmers a 5 & 3 series 91' and
|> >89' respectively. VW is no comparison with the blue and white badge. The
|> >$10000 difference really buys you a true drivers car rather than a
|> >pretender. 
|>
|> You haven't driven a Corrado, have you?  It is not a "pretender" by
|> any stretch of the imagination (unless, of course, you're defending
|> your BMW preference).  I drove my friend's G60 Corrado, and believe
|> me, you're right in a true "driver's car."  The Corrado should never
|> have made it to the states without the VR6...

I posted yesterday that the Corrado SLC had whipped the BMW 325i
in a magazine comparison.  I made a mistake, but the real truth
is probably even more depressing to the BMW fanatics.  The Bimmer
was whipped by the Golf VR6.  Now, this beast probably won't
make it to the States for a while, if ever, but the closest thing
we've got to it for now is the Corrado SLC.  Also, I'd like to see
the Jetta GLX (VR6) go against the Bimmer.  I don't think it will
be long before the car rags pick up on that one.

A thousand apologies for making a mistake.  It will happen again.

Kenneth
finnegan@navo.navy.mil
From: nm0z+@andrew.cmu.edu (Niti Meng Mantasoot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Saablove
Date: 14 Oct 92 02:52:24 GMT
Organization: Senior, Design, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I'm sick of "wharfie" badmouthing Saab.
We currently have four Saabs (3 900 turbos and a 9000) with mileage
ranging from  130 K on the 9000, 72K, 65 and 24K on the 900's. We've
never had any major problems on any of them (biggest expense has been a
vacuum leak in intake manifold). Having previously owned a BMW 325 and a
Mercedes 300, we'll take a saab any day.
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Slick 50 gear oil trashes syncros, NOT
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:34:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: bronco.1992Oct15.103421.1
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division


The Slick 50 gear oil product that I bought and put into my tranny was for
80W90 gear oil systems.  I thought a little clarification was in order.

-- 
 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *     Of course I speak for Fermilab, Congress and the President... NOT !!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mollett@lexmark.com (Vic Mollett)
Subject: Performance Truck Parts
X-Disclaimer: These views are the poster's and not necessarily those of Lexmark
Organization: Lexmark International; Lexington KY
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1992 12:07:39 GMT

I am considering building a performance mini-truck (not an off-road vehicle,
nor one of those trucks that rides 1mm off the pavement, but rather like the
SCCA racing trucks) and I'm trying to figure out which model has the most
suppliers of parts.  I know that most of the manufacturers have a racing truck,
but that does not mean that they do not fabricate a lot of the parts that they
use in the trucks.  If anyone can point me in the direction of suppliers and/or
publications that deal with the matter, I would be most appreciative!!  Also,
if anyone has any experience with building such a truck, I would be interested
in hearing that as well.

-- 
                                             /\    Vic Mollett
 These opinions are my own and do not       /  \   Lexmark International, Inc.
 necessarily reflect those of my employer.  \  /   mollett@lexmark.com
                                             \/  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: heff@apollo.hp.com
Subject: Bad Alternator?
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 21:01:34 GMT
Reply-To: heff@apollo.hp.com
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories


All of a sudden, my "Charge" idiot light went on in my trusty old
s**tbox Toyota.  It's lasted through a couple of starts before
the battery got weak, so apparently the idiot light wasn't faking
me. (A known flaky light went on at the same time, so I thought
both were flaky.  Now I know why they're called idiot lights.)

If I can guarantee it's the alternator that's bad, I could
replace it myself, but they run $75-$135 from an auto parts
store.  How can I check it out?  Get the car started, and see if
there's a healthy 12V on the output of the alternator?  Is there
something behind the alternator in the system that could be bad
and producing similar symptoms?  Also, is it bad to disconnect the
alternator and the battery while the car's running?  (My motorcycle
repair manual has a caution to that effect, are car alternators similar?)

Thanks,


Jeff Oesterle
================
"No, I don't know that atheists should be considered as citizens, 
nor should they be considered patriots.  This is one nation under God."
                                         - George Bush
<choke> <cough> Say WHAT?!?!?!?
================

(Disclaim, disclaim, disclaim.)
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Jeep Wrangler problem solved
Date: 8 Oct 92 09:36:42 EDT
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA


Last week I posted a note about how my Jeep Wrangler would run for 20
minutes, and then die. I thought it was either a fuel starvation problem
or an ignition problem. I got a bunch of mail (thanks to all who
responded) of which 50% said it sounded fuel starved, and 50% said
ignition. One response said to buy a new Jeep!

Last weekend I put in a new fuel filter (Hey, try the $4.00 part first,
right?). Started up, and ran for 20 minutes and died. I checked to see
if it had fuel, and it did. Then I let the Jeep sit for a few hours to
cool.  I then unbolted the ignition module from where it lives on the
inside of the left fender (under the coolant recovery tank) to see if I
could cool it with an ice pack and see if the Jeep would run longer than
20 minutes.  I started the Jeep, it ran for maybe a minute, and then
would not restart at all.  I bought a new ignition module ($44.00 from
parts store, $97.00 from dealer) and plugged it in. Started and runs
great, and for over 20 minutes, so I guess I found the problem.

The response I had received from someone who had replaced their module said
that the replacement had slightly different plugs, and some plug switching
was needed. Not the case with the one I bought, plugs were the exact match.
Even came with a packet of dielectric (sp?) grease to put on the connectors.

-David
--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How to loosen the brake assembly when changing pads?
Date: 7 Oct 92 15:11:21 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


   Are you trying to remove the pads with the caliper in place? The idea
is to remove the pins (sliding caliper?) and use a screwdriver to gently
lever the pad away from the disk and then remove the caliper pads and all.
You can then easily unclip the pads from the caliper and put in the new ones.
Don't get oil on the pads when you handle them.
   Replace the caliper and pins (use a little high temperature lube on the
pins) and you have finished.

                               Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: TURBO COUPE'S OUT THERE?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:13:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I'm writing this article to see how many people out there are
-> interested in forming a semi-club over the email system.  This
-> semi-club will be just for us proud TURBO COUPE owner and nobody else
-> (because there is no other car to compare).

 Well, that sounds real nice, but how many Subaru Turbo Coupes are out
there?
                   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: min@faraday.ece.cmu.edu (Min Ye)
Subject: Help Needed with 86 Nissan Sentra
Organization: Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:31:49 GMT

Hi there:

I bought an 86 Nissan Sentra last Dec. Now I find a problem with it.
When I push the acceleration pedal, some time it just slows down 
instead of speeding up, or some time the car knocks back and forth.
When I'm starting the engine, it vibrates and tends to stop at the first
several tries. Does anybody have any clue what's wrong? Can it be easily
fixed? Thanks in advance!

Min Ye
min@faraday.ece.cmu.edu
From: venkat@vidcom.csc.ti.com (Venkat Venkateswar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Scratched off paint: How to prevent rusting?
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:51:57 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Texas Instruments

Recently I brushed my car on a post in our parking structure and a swath of
paint 1/4" wide and 1 feet long peeled off. My question is what should
I do to prevent rusting? A professional paint job is expensive, I
could do a "touch up" paint job myself, but I am wondering if that is good
enough to prevent rusting?

Venkat
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson) 
Subject: shift speeds
Reply-To: A.J.Robinson@lut.ac.uk (Alan Robinson)
Organization: Loughborough University, UK.
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 16:29:27 GMT



Anyone KNOW the speed at which 4->3 TORQUE DEMAND (not kickdown)
downshift should be inhibited by governor pressure on a 1986 UK spec
Ford Granada 2.8i Ghia Auto ?

Info on the other upshift/downshift speeds would be interesting too.

Anyone with such a car who wants to compare notes is welcome to email me.
(Mine is about to run out of warranty so I want to check everything is
spot on).


Cheers,

Alan.
From: gt5829c@prism.gatech.EDU (Allen Turner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Blower - 88 Ranger
Date: 16 Oct 92 22:56:18 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology


	I have a 1988 Ford Ranger with 68k miles. I bought it used
at 56k miles. The fan runs only on high speed. I have tried a new
fan switch, but that didn't solve the problem. There are about four
or five wires connected to the switch, but only two connected to the
blower motor. I haven't been able to trace all the wires too
effectively, but it seems that if the motor runs on high speed, it
would also run on the other three. The truck has a heater and vent
only, no A/C. I'd rather not buy a wiring schematic just for this.
and would much rather not buy a new blower motor. Is there some
resistance network between the switch and the blower?
Secondly, are such parts prone to failure after only four years
in Fords?

					Thanks in advance,
					Allen

-- 
Allen F. Turner
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta GA, 30332
uucp:     ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt5829c
Internet: gt5829c@prism.gatech.edu
From: enns@waterloo.hp.com (Roger Enns)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: A quick qestion
Date: 16 Oct 92 17:11:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: waterloo.Bw853s.6nE
Organization: HP Panacom Div Waterloo ON Canada
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Robert Toth (rtoth@athos.rutgers.edu) wrote:
: 
: Does anyone out there know if 3M makes a rust inhibitor?  I know that
: I have seen something in Car Craft about it but I cannot find the
: issue.

I don't know about 3M, but I use a product called 'EXTEND' made
by Loctite.  It is brushed on, and can be painted primed or
sanded after curing.  It seems to slow the rust process
substantially.

: Any help is appreciated.
: 
: Thanks much

No problem

Roger Enns (enns@waterloo.hp.com) Panacom Automation Division, HP
C-GIIV Dragonfly, 1979 RX7 13B, 1985 Colt
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 4w disc brakes
Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1992 13:50:41 -0500

 > Has anyone had experience with replacing 4 wheel disc brakes
 > on a car?  After a long trip this weekend, I decided my
 > brakes
 > needed looking at.  Well, a trip to my Goodyear Dealer
 
stuff deleated about wide variances in price for job
 
What kind of car is it supe...er clark??
I have done some japanese cars--the backs are no big deal you do 
need a tool to SCREW the ptstin back in, or you have to be VERY CAREFUL 
when using some nedelnose pliers to do that, but otherwise no 
problem...as far as the abs--no experience there, but how hard could 
it be?? call pepboys and ask them how much the pads and rotors are...it 
is not a tough job, try it yourself and save 2-600 bucks!!
From: vat10@diag.amdahl.com (Victor A. Tirva)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '80 Accord fan not working
Date: 9 Oct 92 06:51:48 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Cupertino, CA

In article <1992Oct7.195029.14296@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, pkss@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (philip.k.sikora) writes:
|> My wife's car's heater/defroster/ventilator fan does not work at any of the
|> three speeds. It's not the fuse (that would have been too easy). There are
|> two identical metal cylindrical objects under the dash by the steering
|> column (relays?) and swapping those with each other doesn't fix the problem
|> nor hurt something else. My next step would be to try and trace power -
|> something I've had only limited success with. 
|> 
|> Anyone have this exact problem w/ this model?
|> 
|> I reckon I should take any general type comments, too.
|> 
|> Thanks.

If power is reaching the motor, then it is possible that the motor's brushes
have worn out.  The brushes (on my car) are  plugs about 2/3" long and
held against the commutator by springs.  When the plugs have worn down enough,
( < 1/4") the springs can no longer push the plugs against the commutator.   
If a new motor is expensive, try an electric motor repair shop.  For me it was
$200 for a new one vs. $40 to get the old one fixed.
From: pkss@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (philip.k.sikora)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: '80 Accord fan not working
Date: 7 Oct 92 19:50:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

My wife's car's heater/defroster/ventilator fan does not work at any of the
three speeds. It's not the fuse (that would have been too easy). There are
two identical metal cylindrical objects under the dash by the steering
column (relays?) and swapping those with each other doesn't fix the problem
nor hurt something else. My next step would be to try and trace power -
something I've had only limited success with. 

Anyone have this exact problem w/ this model?

I reckon I should take any general type comments, too.

Thanks.
From: pzh@myna.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: electronic rustproofing.
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:35:42 GMT

These ways of electronically rustproofing vehicles sound too simple to be
true. Does anybody have any _long term_ experience with these methods? If these
methods really work, WHY THE FISH DON'T CAR MAKERS USE THESE @#$%! TRICKS. I
suppose they don't want their cars to last too long, eh?

Cheers,
Paul Heuer  (pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: basiji@stein.u.washington.edu (David Basiji)
Subject: Re: Why not . . BOOM !!
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 07:57:36 GMT

chism@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Wayne Chism) writes:

>Having just replaced the 'in tank' electric fuel pump in my
>beater commuter car, this question comes to mind. . .

>How can a DC motor - with commutator, brushes and their
>associated arcing operate in a gas tank with assurance that
>no explosion will occur?  Obviously if the tank has gas in it, 
>the pump is full of liquid and in the presence of no oxygen,
>no problem.  BUT, what happens if you run out of gas?  Now
>it seems that there could very possibly be the ideal mixture
>of air and gasoline vapor in the tank to produce an excellent
>bomb!  But it doesn't happen!  The pump is not sealed - i.e.
>the motor, commutator, etc. are indeed exposed to the gasoline
>and or vapor in the tank.

>Curious!

How you gonna get air (O2) in the tank, even when it's empty? The gas
is volatile (in the vapor pressure sense, not the flammability sense)
enough that it's very difficult to get any air down the filler neck
against the pressure gradient of the fuel vapor.

Dave "It's worth what you pay for it" Basiji
From: dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: lifter noise
Date: 12 Oct 1992 05:27:24 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


	I have done some work on cars.  I want to know how easy
and time consuming it is to reduce lifter noise.  Cost too.


			Thanx

			Don
-- 
           __    _______       _        |
      ----/  \  /__  __/  /\  / /------ |216-754-1981
    -----/ /\ \   / /    / /\/ /-----   |dtn@cwns4.ins.cwru.edu
 ------/_____/  /_/    /_/  \/----      |
From: augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us (Jeffrey Ehlinger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Rear Decklid on 93 Crown Victorias
Date: 8 Oct 92 23:52:10 GMT
Organization: The Tower of Zot - (716)691-3865


     Did anyone notice the change that Ford made on their 93 trunklids. 
The back where the trunk meets the rear fender has a reflective strip on 
it, whereas the 92's had plain trunk and no reflector. i think it looks 
kind of goofy, but i immagine it's safe. I also notice the basic 
radio/tape player is a little nicer, any other changes I didn't see?

==========================================================================
** Mail to: Augy@toz.buffalo.ny.us        <<<Tower of Zot>>> Bflo, NY   **
** The bus came by and I got on, that's when it all began!              **
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Time of the day and Filling up
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:08:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> So does that mean that if you fill it up to the cap, drive a couple
-> of blocks and shut it off for the day, then you could come back to a
-> dripping car and your fuel recovery/ventilation system is saturated?

 The CFR specifies a 10% expansion space in the tank or filler after
the mid 1968 production year.  Before that, you darned well didn't gas
up and then park the car in the sun.  My '60 Chev will leave an ocean of
gasoline on the ground if you try that.
                                                                                                                              
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech