HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Fresh Water Stingray
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1993 23:13:41 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

A shopping mall pet store had fresh-water stingrays for sale for about
25.00 each.  Would any of you have any information on these?  Are
they difficult to keep?  What do they eat?  Thanks, Cliff
From: cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org (Darin Cowan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Kuhli loaches
Keywords: Info
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 04:40:15 GMT
Organization: The Aquarium, Ottawa, Ontario

wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:

> A few years ago I bought a kuhli loach and it lasted only for a week.
> Never bought one again, but I am considering buying one and I'm wondering
> what type of water conditions they must have (do they easily adapt).
> My tank water has a pH of 8.2 and obviously the water is hard.
> (Some people have told me they cant believe my neons have lasted almost 2
> years in this kind of water)

pH of 8.2 is great for a marine tank.  I don't think it's so hot for FW fish
though.  My advice would be to work on that pH if you want to keep a
kuhlii.  If your tap water is the cause of that, you might consider getting
some kind of water treatment device.



Darin Cowan - cowan@cerianthus.pinetree.org
From: kathyt@next2.isi.edu (Kathy Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Help with sick  sunfish
Date: 29 Dec 92 18:06:34 GMT
Distribution: usa

I need some advice on what to do with a sick fish.  The fish in question  
is a Sunfish.  On Friday I noticed that the fish had a white, perfectly  
round circle on his bottom lip.  It looked like he might have scraped or  
bruised his lip on something.  Last night the fish was swimming a little  
crooked, sort of leaning to one side.  The fish has been hanging around  
under the filter so the water has been hitting him.  I added some  
anti-fungal medicine last night, and I also looked in the fish book, but  
did not see anything that looked similiar.

On Friday, I did a partial water change and also removed part of my UGF.   
After removing it I noticed bunches of small worms, that were living under  
the filter.  (They were rolled up in bunches).  The worms were a whitish  
color. Could this be the cause of the white circle?  Does anyone know what  
those worms are?  Are they dangerous?  Please help!  I'd appreciate any  
advice.  BTW, the other fish in the tank are Cichlids, and 2 plecs.

Thanks,

Kathy  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Help with mystery disease
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 01:50:50 GMT

In <Bzzz7M.DuF@unix.portal.com> davids@shell.portal.com (David - Schenfeld) writes:
[...]
-->Female pearl has white spots approx .25-.5 cm in size on tail and on top fin
-->between the body and the fin.  Some also scattered on the body, they seem
-->to be spreading.

Gouramis are susceptible to fungus. Some treatments are salt-water dips
or a dab of mercurochrome on the spots (net the fish, dab, wait a little,
then put back - the little dab won't hurt the water).
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: ves@dms.agames.com (Vincent E. Sartor)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Strange White Stuff
Summary: Growing On top of Water
Keywords: HELP ME
Date: 29 Dec 92 22:39:29 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Atari Games Corp.


  I have been keeping aquariums for several years now, and I have never
had this problem before.  Maybe because I am mostly keeping brackish 
tanks.  
  Well, my freshwater tank has some white stuff growing on the surface.
I did a couple extra water changes, and removed all that I could, buy
it keeps coming back.  The fish seem to be fine, but they don't like the
taste of the white stuff.  They will not eat any food that is coated with
it.  This white stuff looks like white dots, with a white film surrounding
it.  
  Any Ideas about what this stuff is and how to get rid of it.  I am thinking
of moving all the fish out, and completely redoing the tank.
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9698 alt.aquaria:6320
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Advices and opinions sought
Date: 26 Dec 1992 17:59:11 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

abilenko@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Arkady Bilenko) writes:
> 	Dear Netters,
>...
> 	I realize that upon converting my tank to an RUGF, I will need a mecha-
> nical filter.  While looking through the "Pet Warehouse" catalog, I spotted 
> something called the "Quick Filter" by Hagen.  It providec mechanical filtra-
> tion and requires a powerhead.  I was wondering whether I could use that
> instead of that big black sponge as a prefilter, or should I buy a second
> powerhead.  
> 	Another option I have is purchasing a powerfilter to provide additional
> biological as well as mechanical filtration.  The two filters I am considering
> are Penguin 160 (with biowheel) or Aquaclear 200.  Which would you prefer and 
> why?

An UFG or RFUGF provide a very large bio filter and there is no need
for additional BIO filtration.  All you need for a mechanical filter is
a sponge on the INPUT of the powerhead you use to pump the water under the
filter plate.  Since the sponge are acting ONLY as mechanical filters you can
clean them in tap water.  This is much quicker if the sponge is in the
open.

The question you should be asking is how do you get the flow through the
plate and gravel bed to work properly.  While a RFUGF does not have to
be perfect (whatever that means) I do have a few tips that may help you
with you project.

If you have too little flow dead spots will develope where no water flows
through the gravel bed.  You can 1: use more or bigger powerheads or
2: replace some of the gravel covering the bed with flat rock(s),  Either
method will increase the water flow rate through the gravel.

Some filter plates do not provide enough space underneath them tho 
allow the water to flow away from the input (lift tube).  This results
in a high pressure area near the lift tube and a large amount of the water
exiting the plate near the inlet.  Increasing the size of the cavity 
under the plate will do away with the high pressure zone.

Do not get carried away with the depth of the gavel over the filter plate.
Too much gravel just adds additional resistance to the water tring to
flow through it.  


-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: abilenko@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Arkady Bilenko)
Subject: (F) Advices and opinions sought
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 03:57:24 GMT

	Dear Netters,
This is not a beginner's plea for help, but rather a small poll I am conducting,
hoping to figure out what's best for my aquarium.  The setup is such:  a 30G 
freshwater with UGF and a Pengiun 550 powerhead.  After reading the discussion
regarding UGF vs. RFUGF I decided to convert my tank to the latter.  However, 
there are a few questions I have:
	I realize that upon converting my tank to an RUGF, I will need a mecha-
nical filter.  While looking through the "Pet Warehouse" catalog, I spotted 
something called the "Quick Filter" by Hagen.  It providec mechanical filtra-
tion and requires a powerhead.  I was wondering whether I could use that
instead of that big black sponge as a prefilter, or should I buy a second
powerhead.  
	Another option I have is purchasing a powerfilter to provide additional
biological as well as mechanical filtration.  The two filters I am considering
are Penguin 160 (with biowheel) or Aquaclear 200.  Which would you prefer and 
why?
	Right now I am leaning toward using the forementioned "Quick FIlter"
with my existing powerhead because it seems to be the cheapest and the easiest
method to convert to RFUGF painlessly.  However, I keep an open mind.
	Any thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Arkady Bilenko (abilenko@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu).
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9652 alt.aquaria:6299 sci.aquaria:1802
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Nervous Festivums (F)
Date: 22 Dec 92 00:04:18 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft

daf@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (David Forsyth) writes:
>Problem: the festivums are extremely jittery and nervous; they are pale, ...
>No ammonia, no nitrite, rather more nitrate than I'd really like (60ppm on

That may be it: the nitrates are too high.  I am convinced that high nitrates 
cause the stress and skittishness in a number of species of fish, cichlids
among them.  Lower the nitrates to below 10 ppm, 3 water changes of 50% over
the course of 3-4 days -- drain 50% of the water and refill the tank at a 
very slow rate, perhaps 1-2 gal/hr.  If you are worried about your filters
dying, you might want to direct the trickle of refill water into the filter to
keep the bacteria wet and aerated. 

The other useful thing is to get some inoffensive dithers.  Large pencilfishes
come to mind.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (james.j.dutton)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 17:10:08 GMT

In article <1992Dec24.182537.27383@news2.cis.umn.edu> sdebol@htlv.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson)) writes:
>In article <1992Dec23.134902.27650@cbfsb.cb.att.com> jjd1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (james.j.dutton) writes:
>>In article <1992Dec19.055922.27580@news2.cis.umn.edu> sdebol@tsp.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson)) writes:
>>>>
>>>>>Why, why its unnatural. I suggest if you don't want to stress the fish
>>>>>stay away from chlorox.
>>>>
>>>Just to be obnoxious here folks...  Bleach (or hypochlorous acid)
>>>is hardly "unnatural"--whatever that means.  A number of different
>>>organisms (including humans...) have cells which generate HOCl
>>>as an antimicrobial agent--is that "natural" enough for you?
>> 
>>NO.
>>
>>OK everybody use bleach. I apologize. I'm ludicrous.
>>If I kept an open mind in 25 years of keeping fish I wouldn't have any
>>live ones. I've learned something.
>> 
>I wasn't commenting on the use of bleach in a fishtank--one
>way or the other.  I was simply responding to the statement
>of bleach being "unnatural".

It was an expression used as a joke Steve. That's what it meant.
And do have a good day, and don't start a sentence with And.
                           ^- a tip not meant to implicate that Steve would ever

 
                              do such a thing.
================================================================================
 Sesquipedalian's 'R' Us. ZX-10. DoD#564. There ain't no more.
                                 doh#0000000005
================================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ds0007@medtronic.COM (Dale Skiba)
Subject: Re: Algae descriptions: Re: [F] Tough hair algae question
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:40:10 GMT

Jim Hurley (jimh@ultra.com) wrote:

[interesting descriptions of algae deleted]

: spot algae - grows on the sides of tanks in the brightest spots. Appears
: as tiny green dots that are perfectly round and slowly enlarge. Very
: tough to remove from acrylic. Nothing seems to eat it.

Try getting a Borneo sucker.  Mine loves this stuff.  I have a tropical
community tank in an east window.  It gets direct sunlight in the early
mornings.  My plants loved the this, but so did the algae.  I had to get
a couple of ottos to keep the algae under control.  They did a fair job,
but I had to clean off the "green spot algae" every few months.  As an
experiment, I got a Borneo sucker.  It ate everything the Ottos didn't
like. I have not had to remove ANY algae from this tank since I got this
fish.  Actually, the sucker is doing too good of a job.  I have to get
some "algae tablets" now. There is no visible algae left in the tank now.

I have some "grey/black beard like" algae growing in my goldfish tank.
I am tempted to see if a Borneo sucker will eat it.  But I can't bring
myself to put an equatorial fish into a cold water tank!


------------------------------------------------------------------
Dale Skiba
dale.skiba@medtronic.com
CAE/CAD department x4381  MS-T480
------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: bob@hubcap.clemson.edu (Bob)
Subject: [M] Biologic Wet/Dry
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 19:49:40 GMT

Hi all!

     I was wondering if anyone out there has had any experiance with
this filter. There is also a similar filter that is called the
Transformer I believe. The transformer has a built in protein skimmer. I
am going to be using it on a fish only 75 gallon marine aquarium. I need
to find someone out there that has used one and can tell me a little
about it. One other question I have is, can anyone recommend a compact,
traditional wet/dry filter. My cabinet is only 18 deep 48 wide and 22
tall. I have not been able to find a traditional wet/dry filter that
will fit into my cabinet. That is why I am considering the hang on the
back of the tank type wet/dry. I have also considered cannister filters
from ocean clear. Help me please, up to know I have only had a 20 and 30
gallon tank and have gotten by with modified skilters. I am new to the
wet/dry scene and need all the help I can get.

Thanks in advance
Bob Staaf
bob@hubcap.clemson.edu
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Algae descriptions: Re: [F] Tough hair algae question
Date: 31 Dec 92 02:45:54 GMT
Reply-To: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1992Dec28.194010.22352@medtron.medtronic.com> ds0007@medtronic.COM (Dale Skiba) writes:
>Try getting a Borneo sucker.  Mine loves this stuff.  I have a tropical
>community tank in an east window.  It gets direct sunlight in the early
>mornings.  My plants loved the this, but so did the algae.  I had to get
>a couple of ottos to keep the algae under control.  They did a fair job,
>but I had to clean off the "green spot algae" every few months.  As an
>experiment, I got a Borneo sucker.  It ate everything the Ottos didn't
>like. I have not had to remove ANY algae from this tank since I got this
>fish.  Actually, the sucker is doing too good of a job.  I have to get
>some "algae tablets" now. There is no visible algae left in the tank now.
>
Can somebody provide the scientific name for this beast - I've never heard
of it, and believe I've looked at quite a few tanks in my time. Any info
would be appreciated.


-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Robert J. Raible		EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
VLSI Program Manager		 or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark)
Subject: (F) Seeking minimal info on Aspidoras sp. catfish
Summary: want to know if they're appropriate for my tank
Keywords: freshwater, catfish, aspidoras
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 06:31:35 GMT


Hi,

Some Aspidoras sp. (specifically lakoi) are available locally for a
good price, but I haven't been able to find info about them in any of
my books (Baensch's Atlas, The Innes book, ...).  Since it's my policy
not to trust petshop personnel, if someone could supply just the
following information I'd appreciate it, or simply tell me if they are
similar to cory cats.

1) suitable water conditions (pH, hardness, temp)
2) what they eat
3) how big they get 

The reason I need to know is because I plan on using these catfish in
conditioning tanks for tetras I'll try to spawn.  The temperature will
be fairly high (26C), and the hardness will be very low (below 4DH),
pH will probably be < 6 (but I don't know exactly where it will end
up).  I want to make sure these catfish can take these extremes.  If
not, I'm open to suggestions.

thanks

rick clark
-- 
rick clark (rclark@alcor.concordia.ca) | My signature graduated  
           (CIS 70272,3270)            | before me.
From: Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: tetras
Date: 29 Dec 92 01:20:17 GMT
Reply-To: Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey)
X-Posting-Software: UniBoard 1.10a S/N 202921

I recentry read here that there was a problem with serpae tetras and neons.
I just got ris of my serp's because of this. I thought it was just a local
phenomenon. I also has silver tip (I think) tetras, and they were nipping my
neon's tails too. Threw them to my Dempsey's. ANyway, was it wrong to mix
serp's and neons? I have angels, and glass cat's and an algae eater right
now. I am going to add cardinal's, OK?
From: ah237@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joseph McPherson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Cloudy Water Redish
Date: 31 Dec 1992 19:15:55 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


Iha

I have a new tank set up which has water which changes colors from greenish
yellow to a rusty Orange.  We have tried cleaning replacing everything exce
everything except the tank itself.

Does anyone have any ideas what may be the cause of this problem.

Water had
Water has been tested for nitrite, hardness alkalinity and ammonia by a
local pet store and all seems fine.
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (FAQ) A brief and general list of brackish water fish and plants
Date: 23 Dec 92 04:22:23 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

This is a compilation and re-edit of the data I had compiled from several 
books.  Use at your own risk.

A general list of brackish water fish:
	Puffers
	Scats (Scatophagus spp.) 
	Monos (Monodactilus spp)
	Anableps 
	Achirus species (soles, flounders; select the tropical brackish soles)
	Pipefishes
	Sailfin mollies and their relatives like mosquito fishes (Gambusia
		species) and pike livebearer (Belonesox belizanus)
	Etroplus maculatus and E. suratensis (Asian cichlids sold as Orange 
		and Green Chromides respectively)
	Malayan halfbeaks (Demorgenys pusillus)
	Indian glassfish (Chanda ranga, get the non-painted ones!!!)

	killies:
		African: Aplocheilichtys spilauchen (a lampeye)
		Middle Eastern: Aphaniops dispar, Aphanius iberius,
			other Aphanius species
		Eastern USA:
			all over the eastern seaboard: mummichog 
				(Fundulus heteroclitus)
			brackish swapms of Florida: American flagfish 
				(Jordanella floridae from 
		Western US: desert pupfish (Cyprinodon salinus)
		S. American: Rivulus ocelatus (a hermaphroditic species)
			
		a huge number of the nominally freshwater killies will 
		do splendidly in water that is quite brackish -- and many 
		of the African and South American species look as colourful
		as marine fishes)

	Asian Dantinoids (get too big for small tanks), 
	Asian and Australian Archers,
	some Australian rainbows (like Melanotenia macculochi), 
	gobies: Australian gudgeons (like Mogurnda mogurnda),
		a number of other gobies, like sleeper gobies


A general list of plants that tolerate brackish water:
	Java moss, Java fern, Elodea densa (Anacharis), Hygrophila polysperma

As long as the water is not VERY salty: 
	Echinodorus tenellius (pigmy chain swords), Sagittaria subulata, 
	S. graminea, S. gigantea, Vallisnaria americana, Water sprite, 
	Hornwort.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: schwarz@esrican.uucp (Brian Schwarz)
Subject: Skilter250 for Sale!
Reply-To: bschwarz@esri.com
Organization: ESRI Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:53:22 GMT

Hello all.

I've decided to upgrade my Skilter 250 on my 75G marine tank.  Rather than putting
it in the aquarium odds&ends box, I'd like to get something for it (ie. $$'s).

Please E-mail if interested.

Thanks,

Brian

_|_| Environmental Systems Research Institute, CANADA     
_|_|                                
        bschwarz@esri.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------


-- 
_|_| Environmental Systems Research Institute, CANADA     
_|_|                                
        bschwarz@esri.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: johnp@silver.lcs.mit.edu (John Palaima)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Orange Sailfin Mollies
Date: 1 Jan 93 18:24:55
Organization: MIT Laboratory for Computer Science
Distribution: rec
NNTP-Posting-Host: silver.ai.mit.edu

Anyways My orange sailfin mollies (2 out of three) exibit this strange, head tick (as in back and fourth) any ideas what causes it.. 
also it seems my clown loach is losing his orange color again and the darn heater cant keep a steady temprature so ill hafta buy a new one... any recommendations
also I am looking for semi-exotic fish for my >20 gal but less than 30 gal tank that like a community tank..any recommendations
--
johnp@silver.lcs.mit.edu      |    Its not impossible, just improbable
johnp@pro.angmar.uucp         |            (Zaphod Beeblbrox)
bl298@cleveland.freenet.edu   |   N1NIG@amsat.org (Being a Ham is so grand)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: kline@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (Charley Kline)
Subject: Re: Advice about adding a Black Ghost
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 01:45:50 GMT

We have a fairly new and small (4") black ghost in a 10 gallon tank with a
male Betta and a plecostamus. Everyone seems to get along, although the
plecostamus seems to terrorize the knife just a bit. The hard part is
getting food to the knife before the other two fish eat it.

Maybe I'm just not used to nocturnal fish, but I get worried because I
rarely actually see the knife eating. Seems healthy though, so presumably it
is eating in the dead of night. We've been feeding it frozen brine shrimp
and live bloodworms, does this make sense?

You definately DO need a place for it to hide; ours spends practically its
entire daytime hiding in a pink ceramic block. We gave it a clear plastic
tube in hopes it'd be happy in there and we could appreciate it more, but
only rarely does it hang out there.

The local pet store (a VERY reputable shop) says that knives are nearly
blind and hunt for food using echolocation. Whether this is sonic or
electromagnetic, I'm not sure, but because of this, they surmise that this
knife may hide so much in part because the big floppy tail of the siamese
fighting fish "looks" large and dangerous.

What a beautiful fish, though.
-- 
Charley Kline, KF9FF, PP-ASEL                          cvk@uiuc.edu
UIUC Network Architect                               (217) 333-3339

"YOW! Are we in OTTAWA yet??"
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria