HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Eric T. Jue <etjue@lbl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Advice to Beginners
Date: 29 Jul 1992 20:19:16 GMT
Organization: LBL
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 131.243.64.95
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1

In article <1992Jul29.174719.27307@wam.umd.edu> , fitchitt@wam.umd.edu
writes:
>Maybe you can help me. I have 2 Infinity 9062 6X9" (think that the
number)
>and an MTX 12" Dual Voice Coil woofer. I would like to incorporate these
>3 items into some sort of single box for "easy" removale, so a theif
doesn't
>do it for me.

If I were you, I'd scrap the 6x9's in favor of separates.  I would
suggest going for 5 in. midranges and 1 in. tweeters.  This configuration
will sound astronomically better than using the 6x9's for mid's and
high's.  The seperates will also be easier to fit and you won't have to
worry about separate chambers.  Believe me, you don't want to have 6x9's
and 12's in one box.  Good luck.
From: miliu@sdcc13.ucsd.edu (zaphod beeblebrox)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: HELP!  Fried Pioneer KEH7100TQR head unit
Date: 25 Jul 92 02:48:40 GMT

In article <Brt4s4.qC@ais.org> robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer) writes:
>Oh boy, I goofed this time. I was workin on my system, and the remote
>lead got grounded.  Head unit quit.  Is there something that I could
>check easily inside the head unit?  I already looked for burnt chips/caps
>and found none.  Any help appreciated, I can hardly afford a new head
>right now.
>Thanks
>-Robb

I had a similar problem with my Technics cassette/tuner.  The power
antenna lead (used for remote turn-on at the time) was accidentally
hooked onto either the ground or positive terminals on my amp.  It
was fixed under warranty (whew!).  The invoice that came with it
when I got it back had a description of work done and parts.  There
was only one word. . . SOLDERED.  Hope this helps, and luck to you.

			Zaphod
From: kirk@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Kirk Lindstrom)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Bazooka vs. sub+separate enclosure
Date: 25 Jul 92 12:44:12 GMT
Organization: Shredding the water of SF Bay, HP-OCD

>Dual Boston Acoustic ProSeries 8.0LF drivers, each installed in a separate,
>custom-built enclosures.  Two bridged Nakamichi PA-202's, and perhaps an
>active cross-over.  Needless to say, I'm pretty sure this will sound quite
>good, but would cost more than $1200.00.  That's WAY too much for me right
>now.  My question:  Are there any high-end bazooka's (or other sub systems)
>that can deliver a descent amount of very clean, flat bass for <$500.
>
>A.J. Singh
>----------
I agree, the Bozo's will sound like sh*t compared to the above.  Why not
go with just 1/2 the set-up and maybe an amp costing a bit less?  With
installation by a dealer, some amps like the rf460sd carry a 2 year 
warranty so it doesn't matter if it goes out.  My experience with
electronics says that if something lasts 2 years, it will last much longer
probably until the capacitors start to leak which is 10-20 years.  Also
if you drive 4 Ohms rather than 2 Ohms, your reliability should improve
4 times or more.

Kirk out
=> Thank God we don't get all the government we pay for.   ---Will Rogers
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Kirk Lindstrom - OCD Product R & D  | Hewlett-Packard Co.  M/S: 91UA  |
|   Engineer/Scientist, Hardware      |                                 |
|-------------------------------------| Optical Communication Division  |
|       kirk@hpoclpa.hp.com           |                                 |
|    Kirk Lindstrom / HP0100/UX       | 370 W. Trimble Rd.              |
| ph 408 435 6404 | fax 408 435 6286  | San Jose, CA  95131-1096        |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Strange Ideas Brewing Upstairs...
Date: 29 Jul 92 14:06:32 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pittsburgh
Originator: macman@pmax1.cis.pitt.edu

Hi all,

I was just daydreaming here at work (it's only 9 am, you know... I should
be *real* dreaming)... and I thought of a strange idea, and I'd like some
opinions on it.

I have a pair of [fairly old] 15" Fisher home speakers, and I have a car
with the factory speakers.  The Fishers were a "you want 'em, come and
take 'em" free deal from a friend...  they didn't stack up against my
current home speakers (bass way to muddy), but I'm *sure* they'd sound
better than GM's 4x10's... SO:

(A) does the following sound feasible:
  - mount the 15" woofers as subs behind the back seat (using trunk
    as the box)
  - mount the 5-6" midranges and the tweeters in the rear deck
    (with a cheapo 6x9 grille to make it "perfessionel-lookin'")

(B) since money has to spent on this deal somewhere... what kind of amp
  would it take to reasonably drive this (8 ohm) load to reasonable
  levels (I don't need a boom-car).

It's just somethin' I was toying with... all commments welcome!

-Den
macman+@pitt.edu
macman@unix.cis.pitt.edu
macman@vm2.cis.pitt.edu
-- 
===============================================================================
Dennis Lippert - macman@unix.cis.pitt.edu
The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Hillman Research Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
- all comments are mine, don't use them without proper identification.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: davidv@sco.COM (Uncle David)
Subject: Opinions sought on Sony CDX-5180 CD player
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 01:35:59 GMT


any comments on this? i just picked up one at Circuit City for
around $380. seems to work fairly nicely. decent power, certainly
equal to what my Kenwood tape-deck could put out, which was fine
for the speakers i had. no need to resort to an external amp.
features are pretty nice and it handles bumps just fine.

though i'm kinda leery about having a unit with a detachable
face-plate, especially after reading the comments in here. i'd 
really hate to come back to the car to find the unit gone. is 
the general consensus that detachable face-plates are worse than 
pullouts? however, it sounds like thieves will take anything, 
including the sleeve for a pullout. so matter what, yer screwed.

so far i haven't had the car broken into. dunno if this is due
to the fact that i was very good about taking the pullout with
me whever i went, or the car looks rather mundane and boring
('86 Honda Accord in good condition), or just good luck with
where i go and park.

-- 
David Vangerov, Systems Analyst - Advanced Technologies, Information Services.
Voice: 408-425-7222, x4357 | Email: ...!uunet!sco!davidv | SCO would never say 
Fax:   408-427-5460        |        davidv@sco.com       | something this lame
  "First rule of bicycling: you're always going up a hill and into the wind"
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: LWanted: Low power amp
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 12:31:41 GMT

HI,

  I am looking for a used low power (25x2) amp for a good
  price, so if you have one laying around, drop me a line.


Marc.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: robb@ais.org (Robert Gonyer)
Subject: Re: Stock rear speakers intentionally weak??
Organization: UMCC
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 16:42:55 GMT

In article <3521@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert) writes:
>In article <1992Jul20.181421.349@crc.ricoh.com> chilton@crc.ricoh.com (Jeff Chilton) writes:
>>dschille@jekyll.eng.uci.edu (David Schiller) writes:
>
>>>   I just bought a new Mazda MX-6/LS, and I noticed that the front speakers
>
>>   I am not an audio expert, but have always reccomended that one
>>   NEVER NEVER NEVER get the factory audio system.  These are usually low
>
>I dare you to try and get an "LS" without a stereo!  Maybe it can be done,
>but I'd bet it'd be *really* hard  to do on a Japanese car (I know, it 
>could well be build in Michigan, but can you *order* a Japanese-make?)
>
>I'd be willing to bet that the top-line system AM/FM/at-least-casette
>is a part of what's included in the LS package... to lose the radio you
>gotta lose the other goodies too.)
If it is a '93 model, it *IS* built in Michigan.  Totally.
>
>-Den
>-- 
>===============================================================================
>Dennis Lippert - macman@unix.cis.pitt.edu
>The "Mac Maniac" operator at the Hillman Research Lab - Univ. of Pittsburgh
>- all comments are mine, don't use them without proper identification.


-- 
/~~~~~~///~|~~~~~~~~~* 5.0 Ford Mustang II *~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
\  \\\///  |  Stillwater Design-Pioneer-Infinity   |                         /
/   \XX/   |   Aiwa-Cerwin Vega!-Sherwood-Technics | robb@141.211.206.16    /
\__Amiga!__|_______________________________________|_______________________/
From: mick@uflorida.cis.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: speaker box question
Date: 26 Jul 92 18:47:16 GMT
Reply-To: mick
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Florida  (ufl.edu)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4

In article <1992Jul21.212503.207@Cadence.COM>, syoung@Cadence.COM (Scott Young) writes...
>I have a speaker box housing my 12's and was wondering if it would 
>have better performance if I (a) separate the speakers or (b) stuff
>the box with some kind of filler.Sooo... what i'm asking is the box
>is completely open in side , there is a breather bar at the bottom
>and holes for the speakers that's it. what should/could i do for 
>better sound.????   
> 
>sorry if i'm unclear i'll try to repost when my boss aint around.

1. Seperate the woofers if they are on different channels. put them in seperate
boxes-
2. if the woofers are producing anything over 80hz you should stuff the box.
3. say hi to your boss.

mick
From: axle@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Speakers in MR2...HELP!!!
Date: 31 Jul 92 16:21:17 GMT
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO



	I'm trying to get some speakers for my 88 MR2, the old boxy type,
without any luck.  The car now has a pair of 4" Pioneer and a pair of 4" 
Altec Lansing mounted on the C pillar.  Putting it in simpler terms, my 
speakers suck!   High frequency response on the Pioneer is decent, but bass
(or the lack of it) is really getting to me.  I listen mostly to music 
recorded from CDs on to metal tapes.

	The problem is the car has no place for me to install speakers.
There are no speaker 'slot' on the door.  Very little room behind the seat.
The trunk is behind the engine.  I went to a couple of stereo places, and 
this is what they told me:

  1.  6" Bazokas - Goes directly behind the seat.  This would leave me no
  		   room for my T-tops.  I didn't really like the overpowered
		   boomy bass of the bazokas.  Prefer something clean and
		   tight.

  2.  Truck style boxes/w 6" woofer $ tweezer in a ported box.  This 
      represents the same space problem as the Bazokas.  In addition, the
      highs would be drowned out by the seats rendering half the speaker
      useless. The woofer is placed right at the bottom of the seat. The 
      seat's metal frame blocks a good part of the woofer.  I don't think 
      much bass would radiate through. 

      Pioneer has something similar to the truck boxes, but smaller in
      dimension (5" mid/woofer in a ported box).  But again, I didn't like
      the sounds coming from these speakers.
    
  3.  Plate drivers - on the doors.  I might be able to cut out a portion 
      of my map pocket and the door to install the plates.  This option is
      costly because it requires a pro to do the instalation.  In addition
      I might not have enough room in the door because of the power windows.

      I have never listened to any plate speakers.  How do they sound, esp.
      the bass.

  
	I want something with not a lot of power, but can provide my with
good clean bass.  I'm stuck.  Any ideas or opinions about my options are
greatly appreciated.  


						Thanzs
	
						AXLe signing out.
From: hhd0@newshost.gte.com (Horace Dediu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: CD changer compatible with factory head unit
Date: 21 Jul 92 17:01:56 GMT
Organization: GTE Laboratories, Waltham, MA

I have a new Mercedes Benz 190E with the standard CD-compatible head unit from
the factory.  I believe it's a Schmidt (or something like that) radio which
can have a trunk-mounted CD-changer as an option ($800).  I am curious if
there are after-market compatible CD players which would cost less.

I'm sorry that I cannot give the exact name and model number of the head unit,
but it's simply labeled "Mercedes-Benz".  The manufacturer is a German company
whose name begins with S.  The operating manual clearly specifies how the CD
can be controlled from the head unit, but $800 is kind of steep, no?

So, does anyone know who makes the radio and whether there are third-party
CD-changers compatible with it?

Thanks in advance.

-- 
Horace Dediu                                                  GTE Laboratories
(617) 466-4111                                                40 Sylvan Road
Internet: hhd0@gte.com                                        Waltham, MA 02254
From: mick@uflorida.cis.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: amps...amps...all about amps!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:29:03 GMT
Reply-To: mick
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Florida  (ufl.edu)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.3-4

okay now then lets talk amps!

In response to pro mos amp question. And most of the other questions in the past

No amp can handle loads like 1ohm for sustained periods with out thermal
problems.
1) buy a fan for your amp. Electronics love to be cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2) keep your amp away from the sun!
3) keep you amp low in your car- because hot air rises!

No amp can handle multi-mode unless it says it can.
No amp will sound good given power from a 18 guage wire. or grounded for that
matter.
Try the amp out for boooooooooooooooom on turn on or off. This is the most
annoying pain in the ass problem. Buy an amp the alleviates the problem
internally. Coustic likes to do this occasionally!
1/2 ohm stable amps are specifcally designed for competition purposes.
Make sure all connections to your amp are simple. Twenty thousand splices
in a speaker wire will make a difference in sound quality.
Amps love what they were designed for---4 ohm loads---
If at all possible buy a larger wattage amp use 8ohm speakers and create a
load of 4 ohm instead of 4 ohm speakers and a 2ohm load on a low
wattage amp.
If an amp doesn't tell you a spec be careful. Ask yourself why aren't they tell-
ing me damp factor, thd, im, freq range with +/- slopes, 2ohm stable, 
bridgeable, etc.
If you like tri-mode remember you lose power overall. like a 30x2 may deliver
25x2 + 70x1 instead of 30x2+80x1.
The gains on amps must be adjusted perfectly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I cant stress the above any more than that.
Be careful with bass boosts. most boosts occur at different freq. for diff
manufactures. Like 100hz for panasonic, 80hz for technics I believe. Mixing
of boosts causes strain on the speaker with a bizzare as hell freq curve.

more later Class time

mick
From: cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu (The InfoMan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Sub crossover
Date: 29 Jul 92 04:45:02 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.


	I'm looking for an active sub crossover.

	Just a sub xover. I will have no need for high/midbass outputs.

	I don't want to spend extra money for something I'm not going to
use. I know Denon makes one but are there anybody else? Any made in USA?



						Thanks for the help.
						Chris

-- 
|====================================|
|Christopher   cjm9321@hertz.njit.edu|
|	"I'll Font you up."	     |
|====================================|
From: al1x+@andrew.cmu.edu (Amit Likhyani)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Risks of buying through mail-order?
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:17:07 GMT
Organization: Junior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Excerpts from netnews.rec.audio.car: 29-Jul-92 Re: Risks of buying
through.. by @wam.umd.edu 
> Unless you live in Delaware or some of the other no-sales-tax states, you
> save a bundle on that, PA is 7%, MD 5%, and I think NYC is a whopping 8 3/4%
> Typically, shipping will be less than that due to the unfortunate high-cost
> of audio components.

Damn right.  Long live Delaware.  The problem is that there is not one
PPI, Quart, Orion, Nakamichi, Phoneix Gold or JL Audio dealer in the
state.  Everyone sells Infinity, Polk, Altec Lansing, Alpine, Kenwood,
Blaupunkt, Pioneer, Sony and Coustic with Rockford Fosgate being the hot
ticket item.  So I have to go to Maryland or Pennsylvanis or Mail order
to get all of my stuff anyway.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: scrxlt@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (DAVID OLSZEWSKI)
Subject: Opinions on SONY XR-U220 ???
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Distribution: usa
Date: 24 Jul 1992 09:25 EST  

	I'm looking for some input on the SONY model XR-U220
AM/FM CD Contoller.  The only problem I see is that it only 
has one set of RCA outputs.  

	Please send me some opinions ..... thanks much.
					
-David
From: Eric T. Jue <etjue@lbl.gov>
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: tweeter positioning
Date: 30 Jul 1992 17:11:03 GMT
Organization: LBL
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: 131.243.64.95
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1

I have a Honda Civic hatchback and have installed my tweeters in the air
conditioner vents.  It was a very easy install and they remain hidden. 
Unless you're a perfectionist, you shouldn't really worry about the
tweeters being off-axis.  Always remember that the car environment is the
worst place to get good quality sound.  Good luck.
From: dlou@TROI.UCSD.EDU (Dennis Lou)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Weather & Dust resistant stereo
Date: 23 Jul 92 16:41:10 GMT
Reply-To: dlou@ece.ucsd.edu
Organization: University of California, San Diego



In article <BruDCq.pu@news.larc.nasa.gov>, DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox) writes:
|> IUm looking into upgrading the stereo in my Jeep Wrangler Convertible.  
|> Recently I managed to leave the top down during a rather hard rain and the 
|> stock stereo got just a little bit wet.  IUd like to get something that is a 
|> little more robust (water & dust resistant).  Marine application stereos came 
|> to mind.  I have also seen a stereo with a yellow face that advertised weather 
|> & dust resistance but I canUt remember who sold it.  Some kind of theft 
|> resistance (removable chassis or removable face plate??) would be useful since 
|> I have no locks.

I believe the mfgr is Jensen.  Silo (I don't know if you have one
near you) sells it...


-- 
Dennis Lou             || "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?"
dlou@ucsd.edu          || "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
[backbone]!ucsd!dlou   |+====================================================
dlou@ucsd.BITNET       |Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak went to my high school.
From: rvn@icd.teradyne.com (Rafael Vidaillet)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: ADS Plate Speakers Installation
Date: 23 Jul 92 15:16:18 GMT
Reply-To: rvn@icd.teradyne.com
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA


	I have a question on installation of a set of 6.2 ADS plate subwoofers (two 6.5" drivers, 
that come with a plate to mount them together).  The car is an Eagle Talon (VERY restricted
space) I have tried free air installation, no good!  I have tried making a vented enclousure
for each speaker that was about %50 too small, no good!!!  So finally I installed them the
way there were meant to, together in a box with a volume of a cubic foot.  This last setup
sounds AWSOME!  The problem is that this box takes up too much space in my hatch.  I was 
thinking of separating the drivers into two boxes and placing each one in a separate box,
this way I can  arrange things better in my hatch.  Will they still sound as good?  Or is 
having them together in the same enclousure help? Does the shape of the enclousure matter?

	Another thing I would like to know is if I wired them right.  These drivers are rated at 
100W rms each.  Right now I got them wired in series with two 25W channels bridged (this
is in my 4 channel Alpine amp -I dont' remember the model #-), which I guess will give me 
a little over 50W, into an 8ohm load.  Are loads this big OK for car amps?  Would wiring
them in parallel (2ohm load), be better for my amp? Given the power I have right now would
getting a bigger amp give me more sound/be worth it?  I know that in order to double sound 
one has to much more than double power....

	Any comments will be appreciated,  This is the first system I install and I need to 
learn....

	Also I remember reading about some filling that can be used in the box, to make it 
seem %10 larger to the driver.  Can anyone remind me what was it and were to get it...

Thanks... _RV

---
 ______________________________________________________________________
/                                                                      \
|                 He who dies with the most toys wins!                 |
|______________________________________________________________________|
| Rafael Vidaillet--MS: H71|   Internet:  rvn@dewey.icd.teradyne.com   |
| Teradyne Inc.            |                              _            |
| 321 Harrison Ave.        |   Voice:   (617) 422-2422   |_) \  /      |
| Boston, Ma. 02118        |   Fax:     (617) 422-2837   | \  \/       |
\______________________________________________________________________/
From: curtis@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Is the Sparkomatic Bass Cannon 8" Amplified Subwoofer any good?
Date: 24 Jul 92 19:56:15 GMT
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory

In article <1992Jul24.152216.4184@city.cs>, lionel@cs.city.ac.uk (Lionel Tun) writes:
|> I can get the above amplified subwoofer here for around 90 quids.
|> 1. Is this good value?
|> 2. Is this a good product?
|> 3. Is this the easiest/cheapest way to get the missing lower octaves?

I believe the Sparkomatic 8" subwoofer (along with the AudioVox and the
Realistic 8" subs) are all made by Sennet.  I own the "real thing" - a
Sennet SC-80 8" sub (the model with the bass control and the selectable
crossover frequency).  My system is low-to-middle of the road (cheap
head unit, cheap amp, 20 watts/channel into four speakers), so it was a
very good match for me.  For the price, it really can't be beat (I bought
mine for $99).  If you have a better system, though, and are looking for
*lots* of boom, I wouldn't recommend it.

Jeff
--
       Jeffrey S. Curtis         | Internet: curtis@anl.gov
Computing and Telecommunications | BITnet:   curtis at anlvm
  Argonne National Laboratory    | X.400:    /PN=Jeffrey.Curtis/O=olivia
        +1 708/252-5031          |           /PRMD=anl/ADMD= /C=US/
From: mizutanit@wharton.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: Alpine Amps - Need Advice
Date: 24 Jul 92 14:51:49 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <l6ttlkINN79g@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, zax@kenpo.Corp.Sun.COM (Sonny Dionida) writes:
> Any good or bad advice about Alpine amps?  I'm considering of purchasing
> and installing the 2X60 watts amp in my cherokee.  Price quotation?
> 
> 
> thanks in advance!
> 
> ---sonny

In my experience, I've had great results with their 3522 (30W x 2) amps, which 
are a much lower-end product than the amp you're referring to. Alpine amps are
great, relatively inexpensive amps which hold up fairly well.
However, if you can afford, you might want to look into a MOSFET design amp-
the MOSFET circuit allows for better operation and thus a better sound.

Taka
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: phil@Turing.ORG (Phil Davis)
Subject: looking for a cass/tuner with general coverage
Organization: The Turing Project, Charlottesville Virginia.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 20:14:25 GMT


Hi All,

I'm looking for a mobile tuner that will receive normal
broadcast AM/FM  as well as the  freqs. that a scanner would 
cover and/or possibly some HF freqs. 

Any suggestions?

Thanx,

Phil Davis

KD4BMQ

phil@turing.org.

phil@turing.org.