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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sun, 3 Jan 1993 22:29:39 -0500
From:         MARK SCARINZI <E7P2SCA@TOWSONVX.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Looking for lettering ideas for a refinishing project.

Please tell us more about the colored film for use with the color laser printer.
   Do you have the name of the manufacturer?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@acheron.uucp (Ed Clarke/10240000)
Subject: Re: Safest way to use radial arm saw?
Organization: Ciliophora Associates
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 13:19:07 GMT

From article <Treble-181292095032@asc438.asc.slb.com>, by Treble@asc.slb.com (John Treble):
> Do I set up the fence so that the saw is parked the furthest away from me
> behind the fence? Or do I park the saw closest to me in front of the fence?
> Is it best to push the blade through the work, or pull it through the
> work?

The fence goes furthest away from you on the side of the table closest to
the column.  You pull the saw through the wood.

> I also have one of those wobbling dado heads, and consider it to be the
> most vicious tool I've ever seen!  How do you put the guard on that beast?

I don't think that you CAN put a guard on a wobble dado on a Sears saw.
You have to run guardless.

They don't scare me as much as a fly-cutter.  A fly-cutter is a drill bit
that has a cross arm held by a dinkey little set screw. There's a nice
sharp piece of tool steel on the end of the cross arm just waiting to come
off and impale you.  You use these (you not me) to cut large circular holes
in wood or light metal.
-- 
               |
Ed Clarke      |  I prefer not to kill animals.  I'm a humanist; I'd
acheron!clarke |  rather kill a MAN than a snake.
               |                 - Edward Abbey (Desert Solitaire)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: brands/flavors of laquer
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:52:57 GMT

In article <1zs2zvr@rpi.edu>, ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres) writes:
|> rec.ww'ers,
|> 
|> In the never (seemingly) ending saga of my kitchen cabinets
|> (construction is going well, thank you for asking), I've reached the
|> point where I better get/order the finishing materials soon (joy!).
|> I'm completely sold on a clear satin lacquer finish (I've also
|> abandoned the pickling idea and am going with the natural red oak).
|> I've seen a couple of brands of laquer (and lacquer type) finishes and
|> wanted to find out what people are using, and how happy they are with
|> it.
|> 
|> Some contenders:
|> 
|> Deft (?)
|> Behlen Qualalacq (solvent based)
|> Hydrocote Clear Finish (water based)
|> Water-based lacquer brand from woodworkers supply (previously from JB
|> Moser's Woodfinisher's supply ?)
|> 
|> I am leaning toward the water based lacquers for health and safety
|> reasons (no, I don't have a spray booth, yet).  I do have an hvlp
|> sprayer though.  I am also looking for advice on a (paste ?) filler
|> and sanding sealer to use with the oak and the aforementioned lacquer.
|> 
|> The description of the Woodworker's Supply brand in their catalog
|> seems to sum up what I am looking for in a water-based laquer (brand
|> specific comments are in parentheses) (reprinted from Woodworker's
|> supply catolog w/o permission):
|> 
|> Non-flammable, low-odor, durable, minimal toxicity, VOC compliant,
|> non-yellowing, alcohol, moisture and heat resistant (and unsurpassed
|> by any other water based finish).  Dries fast and cleans up with
|> water.  May be sprayed, brushed, dipped, applied with HVLP units,
|> reduces with water, is self leveling, (and goes further than other
|> water based products).
|> 
|> Eric.
|> 
Eric, I have been using Hydrocoat for just over a year with conventional 
spray equipment with good success.  I understand that it even works better
with the proper HVLP equipment.  I have used their Poly, Top Coat and Dual
Purpose finishes.  The one that I have had the least problem with and best
result is their Dual Purpose.  The same product is used as a sanding sealer
and top coat, it does not finish hazy and applies easily.  As with all
Hydrocoat products you can add a hardner which will increase the finish
hardness significantly.  The hardner will not cause the lacquer in your
gun to polymerize like a catalytic finish but instead will evaporate
in a bout 24 hrs and the product reverts to its original hardness.

Hope this helps - Steve
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Impact of our hobby on "the pros" (WAS: Re: Jointer vs Planer)
Date: 23 Dec 92 18:58:24 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <1992Dec17.191838.6651@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>On the other hand, some places like Thos. Moser Cabinetmakers, actually
>publish books on how to build their furniture, and include measured drawings!
>Perhaps the theory is that most hobbyists will think building a pencil
>post bed or high boy chest is beyond their current skills or available
>time, and so will buy their stuff. Or perhaps it's an advertising gimmick
>to convince people that their stuff is good because they've published
>books on it. I do think it's true that woodworker's appreciate good 
>design and craftsmanship more than most people, and so perhaps Mr. Moser
>feels distributing his plans is just good advertising. Or maybe he just
>feels that since he's been so successful he should be giving some back
>to the Craft.
>

From a more cynical perspective, perhaps he is trying to wring every last
penny out of the market that he can.  Since the DIY types are not likely
to spend a lot of money on his products, he can at least get some dough
out of them by selling them plans.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rich@troll1.msfc.nasa.gov (Rich Krum)
Subject: Re: sanding/cabinets
Reply-To: rich@troll1.msfc.nasa.gov
Organization: Boeing Computer Support Services
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 18:38:47 GMT

Only thing that bugs me is the use of steel wool on kitchen cabinets.

Steel wool can leave little, undetectable bits of steel in the grain, and 
any moisture will cause black stains from the iron oxides formed.

I would use a "scotchbrite" nylon pad in an appropriate grade, or at the 
worst, use BRONZE wool from the local boatyard.  This avoids the problem
entirely. 

I would experiment carefully with the sealer and the number of coats.
Personally, I don't like lacquer in kitchens or wet areas since I just cannot
get it to last.  I like Varathane (urathane-based varnish) or real spar
varnish.

let us know how it comes out, though.  Sounds like fun.

---Rich
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"My opinions are my own, and my employer (Boeing Computer Support Services)
 denies any responsibility for me, all opinions in general, and anything 
 I may say, do, or be otherwise associated with outside of work for them.
 -- Use at your own risk, your mileage may vary, no news is good news."

 E-MAIL REPLY TO:  rich@troll1.msfc.nasa.gov     PLEASE KEEP IT "G" RATED
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Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:00:44 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: SHOP SAFETY - AIR QUALITY
              21 Dec 1992 14:39:08 -0600 from <billn@HPCVAAC.CV.HP.COM>

On Mon, 21 Dec 1992 14:39:08 -0600 bill nelson said:
>gnc@ace.acadiau.ca (GRAHAM CHEESEMAN) writes:
>: While I am very attentive to wearing ear protectors and safety glasses
 while
>: using stationary power tools,  I limit respirator usage to finishing.  I
>: realize that organic vapors pose a threat to health, but what about fine
>: wood dust?  Should woodworkers use dust protection and if so what type
>: of filter is adequate?  Is the dust from certain wood species more harmful
>: than that from others?  Like many DIYs, I work in a small basement with
>: limited air circulation, so the dust can become a nuisance, but is it
>: harmful?
>
>Wood dust is not good for you - wear a dust mask..
>
>Some woods are rather toxic. I do not have my references handy, so cannot
>give specifics. Also, some people have allergic reactions to certain types
>of wood..
>
>Bill

I agree, wood dust or any dust is not good for the lung.  The white paper
masks you can buy at the home center just don't get it.  Although the material
they are made from may be adequate to filter wood dust they do not seal
around your face tight enough.  This means that instead of breathing dust you
are breathing dust with a mask on....but you look good while you do it..

Some years ago I sprayed a cabinet gray while wearing one of these white masks
and felt I really had my act together.  At the end of the day I cleaned up the
sprayer and gear, walked into the house, looked into the mirror and saw some-
thing on my teeth.....gray streaks of paint.  My nose was all plugged up with
paint too.  I round filed the masks and bought another mask that you can't
 even
smell vapor through..

A new mask will have a rating on the side of the box when you buy it stating
what its design purpose is.  Generally, the more you spend the smaller the
partical that can be filtered out.  Just make sure it fits YOUR face TIGHT
or you've got the same problem of looking good but breathing dust/paint..

P.S. If you are straining doing manual work with a good mask on it may become
     difficult to breath very quickly without you even realizing it.  You'll
     get a quick case of the dizzy's and then get a brainstorm that you have
     something over your nose and mouth restricting air flow.
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 23 Dec 1992 10:36:09 -0100
From:         Oliver Nash <Oliver_Nash@IRUCCVAX.UCC.IE>
Subject: Re: Finishing Walnut Wed, 23 Dec 1992

fulton@binah.cc.brandeis.edu wrote:
: I'm looking for opinions and wisdom on finishing a walnut veneer desk top.
: I'm seeking a smooth, impervious, long-lasting finish.  So far I put on
: Watco oil, but the grain is complex and open in some places so will need
: to be filled to give good depth.  Someone suggested after the oil dries I
: finish with a semi-gloss urethane.  Is this a good idea?  If so, which one,
: and how should I apply it?  Any other suggestions?  Thank you!

        Hi there, I just thought you might be interested in trying Danish
Oil. My father just finished making a solid walnut Pembroke Table with
laburnam crossbanding, which he used danish oil. I like the finish a lot,
it is slightly matt but doesn't alter the colour of the wood. It is also a
very good sealant which is important for walnut because woodworm love the
sweatness of it. (it has a lot of sugar in it).
        I suggest you try it out on a test piece, the other thing is you
will have to apply it many times to achieve the desired result, but this
gives you the fun of caring for the furniture for the rest of your life !
        good luck
Oliver


   *     Oliver Nash     EMail   Oliver_Nash@iruccvax.ucc.ie    *
              University College Cork, Cork City, Ireland
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: scotto@ipars.cts.com (Scott O'Connell)
Subject: Craftsman Hand Tools
Organization: Spectrum Data Services - Carlsbad, CA
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 02:55:48 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

(this is the most appropriate group I could think of)

I was wondering where Sears Craftsman hand tools are made.  I have a pair
of "Duck Bill" pliers (like needle-nose but wide) that I purchased in the
early 80's.  The part number is 4509 and they say "MADE IN U.S.A."  I'd
like to buy another pair but it seems they're no longer in the Sears tool
catalog.

Any ideas where I could get another pair?

Thanks in advance.

-- 

Scott O'Connell - N6ZEK                UUCP: {nosc, ucsd}!crash!ipars!scotto
Spectrum Data Services                 ARPA: crash!ipars!scotto@nosc.mil
Carlsbad, CA                           INET: scotto@ipars.cts.com
From: cf036@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (G. Gary Preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 3 phase question
Date: 2 Jan 1993 19:40:24 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu


In reply to C. Lewis:  You neglected the transformer action of the
rotary converter.  Rotary converters do supply true three phase
power and have the same relation to an MG set as an autotrans-
former has to a two-winding transformer.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: sak@geosc.psu.edu (Sridhar Anandakrishnan)
Subject: Thanks for the help on the Tile-Top table.  Summary and Followup.
Organization: Geosciences Dept., Penn State Univ., University Park, PA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 18:49:21 GMT

Just a quick followup.  I asked some questions earlier about a
tile-top table, and got many good answers.  Here is what I learnt:

The table is done, and looks pretty good (if I do say so myself! :-)).
Some things I learnt:
	
	I used _unsanded_ grout, which has a smoother, less gritty
	feel than the sanded variety.  The drawback is that you must have
	thinner grout lines (1/8" or less).

	I did not butt the tiles against the inside of the edge
	molding for two reasons: (1)  there are enough irregularities in
	the tile edge, and with the glaze drips down the edge that you would
	never get them flush;  and (2) the glue squeeze out from the glue-up
	of the edge molding would have been a bear to scrape off completely,
	and now it is just hidden under the grout.

	There are two flavors of grout sealer -- silicone (cheaper)
	and acrylic (expensive).  I went with the acrylic because of 
	claims (believable? not?) that it lasts longer.  

	Rather than buy a grout float at Color Tile or an hardware
	store, I just used my windshield washing squeegee (the hard rubber
	edge that you use to scrape off the water after scrubbing bug-juice
	off).  Worked great.  

	Base was 3/4" plywood and I applied a coat of sanding sealer
	to the underside to keep moisture-related size changes down.
	Necessary? Not?  Who knows, I did it for insurance.  I did not prepare
	the side that I stuck tile to at all.

	My table is 3'1/2 x 4'3/4 and I used 35 tiles (8" square --
	well, actually 7"3/4 to 7"13/16) which cost $10 (the odds-and-ends
	table at the local tile place) or ~$35 at Color Tile.

	Grout: $8 for 5#, and half the carton is in my basement.
	Adhesive: (Liquid Nails Tile Adhesive) $7/tin (qt?) and I used
	2 tins.
	Sealer: $13 (expensive variety) $7-8 cheaper one.

	Plywood: I used Birch (fewer voids and more stable, or so they
	say at the lumber yard, and who am I, a mere academic, to argue). $42
	per sheet ( I have 1/3 sheet in the garage left over).

	Table legs and frame and leaves and edge: I used hard maple.
	$1.70 - $2.20 per bf (1x to 2x).  Surfaced 2 sides, and one
	edge squared. I used about 25 bf.

Many thanks to the following (and others who responded) about my
question about making tile-top table.  

From: wood@marble.rtsg.mot.com (Dan Wood)
From: doug@dsg.tandem.com (Doug Bering)
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
From: simpson@steam.Xylogics.COM (Reid Simpson)
From: stuarts@landau.ucdavis.edu (Stuart Staniford-Chen)
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)`
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
From: srogers@mcc.com (Steve Rogers)

Ciao, Sridhar.

From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 23:30:11 GMT
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds) writes:

>> I would keep the jointer and let go of the planer. The planer is nice, but
>> I could live with higher priced 1/2 inch stock.
>
>You're trying to have it both ways here. If you let go of the planer, you
>remove the asset of "face jointing before planing," since you can no longer
>thickness plane.  And you've complained about the 1/2" stock that you
>buy not being really straight, because commercially noone face joints
>before thickness planing.

  No I'm not.  You have combined a number of things I have said into 
  a conclusion I did not make.  I did not say that if I let go fo the
  planer I would still be able to have perfectly flat dead parallel
  faces.  

  On the other hand:

>To my way of thinking, it's easier to make a jig to adapt another machine
>to perform jointing tasks than it is to adapt another machine to perform
>thickness planing tasks. That's my bottom line on this.

  Yup.  Tag Frid shows how to make a jig that turns a jointer into a
  thickness planer, and I wish I had known about that before I bough
  the planer.

  Remember, there are numerous ways to do things.

  You could note that my router is built into my saw table, therefore, I 
  cannot use it easily for jointing, and this is true.  Maybe if I had a
  separate router table, I could leave my router set up for jointing, and
  not need a jointer at all.

  On the other hand, I do a LOT of finger joints.  I like them.  They look
  cool, are extremely strong and tight, and are very easy to make.  The 
  only problem is the little bit of tearout on the back side.   My jointer
  cleans this up perfectly and rabbits the back edge of boxes, etc., for
  a piano hinge.  

  I make a lot of drawers, boxes, etc, so I use these things a lot.  The
  router won't do this for me, nor will the thickness planer.

  My basic point is that I find the jointer much more handy and use it
  far more often than I use my thickness planer.   You may work differently,
  but you can't disagree with my experience, because it is MY experience.

  My final comment is that I like very much having both machines.  I would
  now like a good bandsaw, and then someday I would like to get a heavy
  12" - 15" planer, rather than this delta portable 12" that I have.  
  When I get this, I will also have a separate shop to work in with lots
  of room and built-in dust control.   In the meantime, don't take away my
  jointer OR my planer.  I love having both.
From: SCC@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu (Scott C. Crumpton)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta Sidekick vs. sliding miter sawa
Date: 31 Dec 92 21:25:27 GMT
Organization: University of Florida, NERDC

In article <1992Dec17.193809.11974@informix.com>
davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes:
 
>...
>My question is: does anyone have any opinions on the relative merits of these
>saws?  Has anyone actually used the Delta Sidekick?  My main concern is that,
>being billed as a frame and trim saw, its accuracy may be poorer than those
>of the SCMs.
 
Dave,
 
I bought a Sidekick about a month or so ago after posting an info
request on this list.  The only response I received was from someone
who didn't have one but felt that the construction of the saw
precluded accurate cuts.  He may have been correct, I can't say.  I am
quite pleased with my saw.  It is accurate enough for my work.  I am
still a bit unsure of the molded resin construction, guess I just like
large aluminum castings.
 
Some specific points to consider:
 
Replace the stock blade with a good Carbide crosscut blade.  Get an
anti-kickback blade that limits the rate of cut.  Treat this saw like
a RAS, it will tend to pull itself into the work.
 
Since the rotating table on this saw is quite large, the angle markings
are very easy to set.  They are almost 1/4" per degree.  The stops are
not precise, set the angle by the pointer.
 
The saw as purchased needed some tuning.  Getting everything aligned
took the better part of 2 hours.  The Heal adjustment is particularly
hard to get to.  There is no adjustment for the mitre angle, it's fixed
by the resin casting.
 
It takes an 8" blade.  There doesn't seem to be all that much selection
in 8" blades.  I tried a 7-1/4, but the saw can't be lowered enough.
 
It sprays sawdust all over the place.  The dust comes off the work and
travels down the slot in the table under the work to hit the back of
the saw, making quite a cloud.  I can't see any good way to use a dust
collector that would not cause problems rotating the table to 45deg.
 
The saw requires only about 2 square feet of space in my garage when
not in use.  Make a bracket or something on the wall to tie it to so
that it doesn't fall over.  Also attach a peice of wood to the wheel
end so that the resin casting doesn't get damaged by scraping on the
concrete floor.
 
Cutting accuracy is far better than I was ever able to accomplish with
the handheld circular saw.  I work mostly in pine.
 
The price you mention is about $100 less than I paid and I got the
saw at $100 off the store price.
 
Hope this helps.  Email if you wish to discuss this further.
 
---Scott.    scc@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: krouse-p@cactus.org (Pierce F. Krouse)
Subject: Looking for lettering ideas for a refinishing project.
Organization: Capital Area Central Texas UNIX Society, Austin, Tx
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 16:02:46 GMT

I'm refinishing a Philco radio/phonograph set, and I need ideas for
how to replace the lettering that marks the tuning and volume knobs.
It's gold lettering with a black border.  The lettering has been worn
off the varnish in many places.  Is there a press-on lettering that I
could embed in the new varnish?  Maybe a stencil?  Ideas, anyone?
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Collective Buying Power
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 15:09:19 GMT

Has it occurred to anyone else that the people who read rec.woodworking
have a large collective buying power?

Wouldn't it be nice if we could negotiate with one company that we
buy all our equipment/supplies from that company in exchange for
a price break?  They'd be getting a very high volume of orders/
income, in view of the high amount of disposable income that 
"Gary Preckshot's computer buddies" (reference Grizzly Bandsaw)
seem to have.

I understand that there is not one supplier that has everything,
but I'm sure we could narrow it down quite a bit, and we wouldn't
have to waste so much bandwidth looking for the best price, where
can I find this, etc.

What thinks the net?

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan)
Subject: making mortises
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:41:58 GMT


To make mortises is it better to use a drill press with a
mortising bit or a plunge router with a mortising bit ?

Who makes the best drill presses ?

     -DJ

From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 02:20:49 GMT
Subject: Re: re: Jointer vs Planer - Thanks
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

daniel@redwood.ppc.ubc.ca (Daniel Ouellet) writes:

I wrote:

|>   Yup.  Tag Frid shows how to make a jig that turns a jointer into a
|>   thickness planer, and I wish I had known about that before I bough
|>   the planer.
|> 

Can you please provide a more precise reference for this. It sounds
quite interesting to me.
----------

   Woodworking Machines, a Fine Woodworking digest, from Taunton Press.

   There is a nice section on the jointer, by Tag Frid.

   Also, if you are interested in more information about planers, saws,
   jointers, etc., check out:
 
   Power Saws and Planers, also from Fine Woodworking.

   This has a good section on using the jointer.   It confirms my belief that
   a high quality tablesaw and rip fence is wasted unless you joint your
   stock first.