HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: faust@bagels.enet.dec.com (Stephen R Faust)
Subject: Re: SPORTS ILLUSTRATED SWIMSUIT ISSUE: What Camera/lens?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: 27 JUL 92 09:55:01 EDT


In article <6#jm43-.hchong@netcom.com>, hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes...
> 
> ....
>
>[flame on] No pro would be caught dead with anything but a Nikon [flame off].
>I think it was a Nikon F4s. 
> 

Funny you mention that. I was wondering why Sports Illustrated was hiring
amatuers for their most important issue of the year. The photographers were
getting anywhere from $2000 to over $5000 per day, over a 30-45 day period.
I know for example Walter Issos uses Cannon equipment, and shoots for Time,
Newsweek, National Geographic, etc, etc.. There was also Minolta being used
by another high paying AMATUER (cant remember his name though, but its in the
video). Another guy from Italy or Europe was also using Cannon F1's.
In all, I think there was about 7 photographers. Off the bat, 3 were not using
Nikon. You're 40% wrong already!

Why did you post this??

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stephen R Faust                                         faust@bagels.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corp.                            faust@bagels.enet.dec.com
Networks and Communications                                   (508) 486-7433
Littleton, MA
============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: freudent@vlsi3.ultra.nyu.edu (Eric Freudenthal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: AF/AE vs. Manual aka All That Jazz
Date: 24 Jul 92 22:25:18 GMT
Organization: /a/users/freudent/.organization

I recently saw an article, either in shutterbug or in pop photo, for a
kit of strips to apply to film cans to DX-encode asa information.

It seemed affordable; I do not remember anything else about it.

--
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
				Eric Freudenthal
				NYU Ultracompter Lab
				715 Broadway, 10th floor
				New York, NY  10003
				
				Phone:(212) 998-3345 work
				      (718) 789-4486 home
				Email:freudent@lab.ultra.nyu.edu
From: ob00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (OLCAY BOZ)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Anyone heard of pricing on the EOS Rebel II/ S II?
Date: 31 Jul 92 13:02:20 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <84899@netnews.upenn.edu>, gasser@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (Nathan Gasser
 ><>  ) writes:
>
>Aloha,
>
>Does anyone know anything about pricing of the Canon EOS Rebel II
>and Rebel S II models?  I was told they'd be delivered at the end
>of August.  From what I've read in a magazine, they're big improvements
>on the current models -- 1/2000 shutter, quieter film advance, red-eye
>reduction, etc.
>
>Speaking of which, does red-eye reduction systems work as promised?
>Even on lower cost models, like point-and-shoots?
>
>Nate.
>
>--
>
>Nathan Gasser       ><>
>gasser@eniac.seas.upenn.edu
>
>
The Rebel II is being sold as a kit now (35-80 zoom, 200E flash, battery, wide
strap and body also). Its price is $330. But the body was made in taiwan not
in japan.
-- 

         -----------------------------------------------------------------
         |  OLCAY BOZ                     |  OB00@NS1.CC.LEHIGH.EDU      |
         |  LEHIGH UNIVERSITY             |                              |
         |  COMPUTER SCIENCE DEPARTMENT   |                              |
         |  Ph. D. Student                |  phone : (215) 758-1886      |
         -----------------------------------------------------------------
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo batteries vs. Watch Batteries
Date: 23 Jul 92 14:27:39 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: world
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

In article <92204.143604SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu>, SPW103@psuvm.psu.edu wrote:
> I've got an Olympus OM2s.  The manual says to use an SR44 or EPX76 (I think) or
> equivilant.  I usually pay about $3-3.5 a piece for these, and I need two.  I
> was at Wal-Mart today, and I noticed that they sell Duracell button cell
> batteries, and that there seems to be two models that will work in my camera.
> They've got one that's marked as a SR44 equivilant (a Duracell 357, i think)
> for about $2, and the other is an EPX76, selling for $3.50.  The cheaper
> battery is marked as a watch-calculator battery, or somethink like that, and
> the other is marked photo-electronic.  They appear identical, and are both
> 1.5v silver oxide batteries.
> Is there a performance difference between the two batteries?  Oh, another
> question is that also available is a 3v lithium battery that is marked as
> an equivalent for two stacked SR44 batteries, but the Olympus owners manual
> I think specifically states _not_ to use these batteries.  Anybody know why?

Stephen-

First, I have tried the DL1/3N lithium cells in several of my cameras. 
When they work, they are a good idea.  However, some cameras just don't
work right with them.  My Olympus OM-4 does NOT like them!  On the other
hand, some camera manuals list both the silver oxide cells and the DL1/3N
lithium, as acceptable alternatives.

Second, the Union Carbide (Eveready) UC357 is essentially the same as the
S76E and EPX76 silver oxide cells.  The "Eveready battery Applications
Engineering Data" gives nearly identical data, both physical and
electrical, for the 357 and the S76E.  It isn't clear why they maintain
both, unless they want to appear to have a special battery for hearing aids
(the S76E), and a special battery for calculators and watches (the 357).

Over the past few years, Radio Shack has been carrying a better line of
batteries for cameras and other electronic devices, than you will find in
most camera stores.  An example is their catalog number 23-009, "Enercell
type 76", for $1.99.  It is claimed to replace the Duracell D357, the
Eveready EPX76 and the Ray-O-Vac RW22/42.  They also carry catalog number
23-105, "Enercell type 357", claimed to replace the Duracell D357, the
Eveready 357 and the Ray-O-Vac 357-1W.  These Radio Shack button cells are
marked "Eveready" or "Union Carbide".

I consider the Radio Shack 23-009 and 23-105 to be identical for practical
purposes.  I'll leave it up to you whether you want the S-76E (23-009) or
the UC357 (23-105)!

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Help!!! Problem with my new 8008s
Date: 22 Jul 92 18:08:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Jul22.180857.13137
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <4953@transfer.stratus.com> savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia) writes:
>In article <14b4qiINNdva@agate.berkeley.edu>, bclee@ocf.berkeley.edu (Bob C. Lee) writes:
>> 
>> 	Just got my 8008s to day from CWO.  First of all, it didn't come
>> 	with neckstrap and batteries while there obviously were compartments
>> 	for them.  Anyway, that wasn't the topic here, but I'd like to know
>> 	if I have been ripped off there.
>
>	Nah.  You didn't get ripped off.  If Nikon sent you a neck strap
>	they wouldn't be able to charge you $50 or so dollars for one 
>	later! :) :)

Some camera companies will give you a strap with your camera, but most WON'T
give you batteries with it.

>> 	The LCD panel's intensity fluctuates and sometimes (actually most of
>> 	the time) just go blank.  And the thing is, whatever happens to the
>> 	LCD panel, happens to the LCD display in the finder as well, i.e.
>> 	intensity fluctuates and blanks out.
>
>	Your camera is extremely defective.  I'd call back and send it back 
>	to CWO.  I've had pretty good luck with them in the past.  I haven't
>	had to send anything back to them but other than that, I like them.

I don't know about the LCD panel, but the LCD display in the finder in many
cameras will often change brightness depending on how bright (or dark) the
subject is that you are aiming at.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: graham@ug.cs.dal.ca (Michael Graham)
Subject: draining 1.5v rechargables? HOW?
Organization: Math, Stats & CS, Dalhousie University, Halifax, NS, Canada
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 18:50:41 GMT

What is the best way to drain rechargeable batteries?
I have 4 Nicads for my Vivitar 636 flash and although the ready light won't
come on, the batteries still have a fair bit of juice left. I guess that
it is best to drain them COMPLETELY before recharging...umm...so I need a
method of doing this.

mike
-- 
e-mail graham@ug.cs.dal.ca if you like to trade live audio/video tapes
**************************************************************************
Bjork sounds so good, that if I were a singer trying to make a living today    
I'd shoot myself in desperation of ever equalling her  -  Barbara Ellen, NME
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sylve_ge@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Gerald Sylvester)
Subject: Advice on Developing Tank
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 02:17:57 GMT



This is question was last asked I think in November.  At the time I
wasn't really interested so I didn't pay much attention.  Well, recently
I decided to buy a new developing tank.  I am not doing anything that
fancy so I guess I would prefer a plastic tank with a 2 or 3 film
capacity and with an auto-load reel.  Stainless Steel will probably
be too much of a pain especially since I do not do too much developing.
I basically want a fool proof or at least close to it, tank and reel.
What do you recommend?  I think people recommended the Patterson's.  
What models of reels and tanks?

Thanks for your help.  If anyone would like for me to forward any
replies I get, please send me e-mail and if I receive enough requests,
I'll post a summary.


***************************************************
*   Gerald Sylvester                              *
*   The Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, MD   *
*   BITNET:  SYLVE_GE@JHUNIX.HCF.JHU.BITNET       *
*   INTERNET:  SYLVE_GE@JHUNIX.HCF.JHU.EDU        *
***************************************************
From: jpglori@srv.PacBell.COM (John P. Gloria)
Subject: Re: Flash Photography
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 23:12:18 GMT

In article <1992Jul28.183104.14316@twisto.eng.hou.compaq.com> parikh@sirocco.eng.hou.compaq.com (Vijay Parikh) writes:
>I am new to this group so please pardon me if this is a FAQ.  Also, I am
>an amateur photographer so please advise me you experts.  I have a Minolta
>X-700 with manual shutter speed, exposure, and aperture control.
>
>In a hall (size 25x25 feet), what would be the best shutter speed and aperture
>combination?  I have been using F8 (aperture) and 60 (shutter speed) when I takepictures during night time (requiring flash).  Does my aperture have to be
>smaller if I want to take picture of something which is about 10-15 feet away?
>Can I simply use P mode (programmed mode) with F22 (minimum aperture) for the
>same scenario and achieve the same results?  Waht would be the maximum range
>of my flash with F22 selected?
>
>BTW, I use 100 ASA film.  Any help or tips would be really appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance!

You will get different repsonses based on personal experiences and having said that,
here is my personal opinion.  You mention a large hall but give no reference to the
type of flash you are using, i.e., auto or manual; manufacturer, Guide Number, etc.
Also you don't mention the existing lighting in the hall. This has a bearing.  
I usually always shoot with 100 ASA or 160 ASA for prints.  I use my Vivitar 285HV (GN 120) quite 
a bit so I will use this as an example.  I usually shoot on full manual mode.  I usually like 
to shoot flash at a subject not further than 20 feet if possible.  I also usually mount a 35mm 
lens to obtain good coverage and good depth of field.  If the hall lighting is not good and it 
is somewhat dark, I shoot at 1/30 shutter speed.  The aperture will depend on distance but
usually f/8 will work for me.

Maximum range of any flash is determined by the film speed you are using as a major
variable, as well as guide number of the flash.
-- 
        ---------  John Gloria - jpglori@pacbell.com	--------	
 		"You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination
	       is out of focus."   -     Mark Twain
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: g8@cbnews.cb.att.com (k.d.tentarelli)
Subject: Re: Best Magazine for Photography
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 12:00:43 GMT

In article <Bs7sp7.5z7@watcgl.uwaterloo.ca> mbianchi@dino.waterloo.edu (Maurizio Bianchi) writes:
>In article <1992Jul29.192019.22116@linus.mitre.org> rajiv@hilltop.mitre.org (Rajiv Kohli) writes:
>>In article <1992Jul29.064704.28554@sys.sweden.dg.com> robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
>>
>>NO! the other way around. I am looking for a magazine that show the picture
>>and have a footnote on what kind of setting was used to get that particular
>>picture,etc. 
>
>I think that PHOTOGRAPHIC is the magazine you looking for. 

Yes, the COMP BOOK column,  and sometimes Gary Bernstein's column, 
describe the thought process and technical considerations that went into
making one setup photograph.  As these article show, technique is more
than just shutter and aperture settings; it is light placement, styling,
props, etc.   Even for sports photography, picking your vantage point
with respect to the available lighting is crucial.  Beware the magazines
which suggest that all one needs to do is pick between f5.6 or f11.

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: whp4@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Bill Palmer)
Subject: Re: Enlarger light sources
Organization: Stanford University CSLI
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 01:59:42 GMT


>>Important however is results. I have printed side by side comparisons of cold
>>vs collimated and am satisfied that I am seeing easily detectable improvement
>>in print quality with the cold light. No amount of arguing will change that.
>>Perhaps someone out there has tried this experiment and gotten different results?

I can't speak from experience, since I only have a dichroic head on my
enlarger, but Richard Henry in the oft-quoted "Controls in Black and
White Photography" points out that to do the comparison properly you
need to use different negatives for the cold-light and condenser
heads, developed to the appropriate CI for each.  


Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Subject: Re: Any Nikon 8008 regrets (get the F4?)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 21:30:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: usa

From article <1992Jul30.165907.29431@ryn.mro4.dec.com>, by faust@bagels.enet.dec.com (Stephen R Faust):
> 
> In article <1992Jul29.180447.19879@linus.mitre.org>, val@mitre.org (Colin Valentine) writes...
>>In article <1992Jul29.142129.281971@cs.cmu.edu>, phg+@CS.CMU.EDU (Paul Gleichauf) writes:
>>> 
>>> SOME criteria for choosing between a Nikon F4s and an 8008s.  (Note I would
>>> not recommend buying a new 8008 without the s enhancements and improvements).
>>> 
>>> F4s						8008s
>>> 
>> 
>>good stuff deleted
>> 
>>The F4s can matrix meter with a non-AF AIS lens, while I believe the 8008 
>>will not (because it can't tell maximum lens apeture?).  
>> 
>>Can someone confirm this?
>> 
>> 
> 
> Consider it confirmed.  Not only will it matrix meter with non-AF lenses,
> but it will also show all details in the viewfinder like aperture setting,
> etc, something that the 8008s couldnt do. It irked me when I had to keep
> taking my eyes from the viewfinder to confirm the aperture I had set. The
> F4S has ADR (Aperture Direct Readout) like the eariler F series, as well
> as an electronic readout in the viewfinder with AF lenses. This is one of
> the reasons that I sold the 8008/6006. I found that I wasnt using them
> because I could never quickly confirm the exposure I was shooting at!
> (exposure of 1/125 never told me much!).

Look-ie here.  We (F4s'ers) are not stupid people nor do we have money 
to throw around.  We have carefully analyse the differences between
F4s and 8008 before deciding on F4s.  For me, it was the above difference,
being able to use my old MF lenses to the fullest, that broke the water.  
However, after getting the camera, I was presantly surprised by more 
advantages/luxuries it has over 8008.
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Press ID for sale - another one
Date: 29 Jul 92 20:30:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Jul29.203006.18317
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <Bs4AJw.KII@world.std.com> dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa) writes:
>
>......a 'do not ticket or tow' card for your vehicle......

Heh Heh Heh, yeah right, as if that would work in a real life situation.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson)
Subject: Color enlarger advice
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 13:22:07 GMT
Organization: Data General AB, Akalla, Sweden

The time has come for me to trade my not-too-old trusty Durst and get
a new one, the main reason being that I need to do medium format and
larger prints than 30x40cm (12x16") on the baseboard. Oh yes, I'd also
like to get the color head graded in Kodak CC values (which the Fujimoto
is).

I've looked into the Fujimoto V70, but would like some opinions on it
as well as on other similar enlargers. Please note that enlarger brands
like Beseler and other U.S.-made enlargers aren't available here in Europe.

Thank's,

Robert


-- 
Robert Claeson            Internet: robert@sys.sweden.dg.com
Data General AB                     robert@sys.dg.se
Box 28                    Tel: +46 (0)8-92 55 00
S-164 93 KISTA, Sweden    Fax: +46 (0)8-751 36 22
From: kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Mail order expectations
Date: 30 Jul 92 01:15:56 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY

In article <10NL03Fb4avg00@amdahl.uts.amdahl.com> bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman) writes:
>Ya wants good service, ya pays for it.  Ya wants good prices, ya still pays
>for it.
	... but you pay in different coin.
--
Kenneth A. Reek				kar@cs.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology	rutgers!rochester!rit!kar
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: PZ-1 over the EOS 10s, N8008s
Date: 30 Jul 92 17:57:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Jul30.175757.17256
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <3562@cs.rit.edu> kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek) writes:
>In article <1992Jul29.154536.13570@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>>In article <3557@cs.rit.edu> kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek) writes:
>>>
>>>	Much worse IMHO is the plethora of glitzy photos that avid amateurs
>>>will produce, ones that look just like the glitzy examples in the camera's
>>>instruction manual, ...
>>
>>Hey, a good picture is a good picture.
>
>	My point is that most of these will not be very good pictures.  The
>picture becomes an excuse to use a glitzy (but inappropriate) feature.

Well, I guess thats for the consumer to decide.  After all, the Camera
manufacturers are at our mercy, and we will ultimately decide what features
make up a good/useful camera.

Also, how can you say "most of these will not be very good pictures", its
the features in a camera that allow us to be that much more creative, and
worry more about the composition of a picture.  Making a sweeping
generalizations like the above isn't very accurate in my book. 

>exceptions; in ten years we may also see cameras that analyze the out-of-focus
>portions of the incoming image and translate it into an image that is
>completely sharp -- infinite depth of field. 

I thought that using the Hyper Focal Point of a lens would just about
give you infinite depth of field (at least as much as the lens can provide).

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: staceyc@sco.COM (Stacey Campbell)
Subject: Darkroom Equipment Questions
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 21:50:24 GMT


Greetings rec.photo readers.  After 15 years I've just made a
decision to get back into black and white developing (I broke a
bone in my wrist and now have a cast that's going to be there for
several months so my usual leisure activities have been severely
curtailed...:-().

I use Oly OM 35mm camera equipment.  My darkroom will be a large
walk-in closet with power, ventilation, and no running water.  The
house is a rental, so I'm not interested in "modifications" to the
house to get a more usuable darkroom.  The kitchen is very close by.
I don't plan on going medium format or color in the near future, if
ever.  Cost is a concern.

So, the questions;

1. What is the most straightforward non-hobbypak film and paper
developer chemical combination, my right hand only has limited use
so the less chemicals I have to juggle the better (even if that
means initally lower image quality).

2. I've got my eye on some second hand enlargers, would it be better to
get, say, a new Omega C700 from B+H in Pop Photo (I've had good luck
buying lenses and film from them)?

3. I think this is the list of the expensive bits (is it?);
	- enlarger with baseboard
	- lens and 35mm negative carrier
	- easel
	- safelight

4. Are these all the slightly less expensive bits?
	- 4 trays (devel, stop, fix, wash)
	- tongs
	- film and paper squeeges
	- thermometer
	- clips for hanging drying film
	- graduate
	- jars for mixed chemicals
	- developing tank and reel
	- proofing aid for easel
	- timer
	- stirrer

5. What is going to be the least difficult film reel to load if
I only have limited use of my right hand?  I'm thinking Patterson
auto at the moment.

Thanks for any advice.
-- 
          Stacey Campbell - staceyc@sco.com - uunet!sco!staceyc
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: Re: Spot meters
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 13:36:07 GMT


In this thread regarding spot meters, which spotmeter physically the 
smallest? Are there any as small as other physically hand-held meters?
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: West coast stores? Advise PLS
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1992 09:38:51 GMT

Could any one advise me on good West coast ( LA, SF ) photo stores
who do mail order. My wife is going to the US in about 5 weeks time, and
I want to get some Canon gear and have her bring it back. Close to LAX
or SFO would be a plus... Minnesota would be another poss.
Thanks in advance.

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: derrick@meaddata.com (Derrick Tatem)
Subject: Wide Angle Lens
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 17:15:32 GMT
Distribution: na

Hello rec.photo fans. I have a Canon AE-1 program camera and I'm thinking
about purchasing a wide angle lens. I've seen a lot of writing on the Sigma
28mm. Is that a good one? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

-- 
Derrick M. Tatem
Mead Data Central, Dayton, Ohio
Internet: derrick@meaddata.com
UUCP:     !uunet!meaddata!derrick
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni)
Subject: Re: Wanted: A light table or slide sorting recommendations
Organization: The Department of Redundancy Department
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 21:09:41 GMT

In article <1992Jul20.132926.4590@fnbc.com> chris@fnbc.com (Chris Toczycki) writes:

>every two years.  I may however, buy a small lightbox for more frequent use.

I bought a small (8x10) color-corrected Logan light table from Gould in NYC
a few years ago for about $40.  It works well, though the large task 
you are facing may call for a larger (and more $) table.

>Oh!  Do I need a loupe?  If so, can you recommend power and make?

The cheapest one I know of is just to use a 50mm lens from a 35 mm SLR.
Point the accesory side of the lens towards the slide and look through the 
"camera" end of the lens.

-- 
Jake Livni  jake@bony1.bony.com               Pat Paulsen for President
American-Occupied New York                    This year he has a real chance!
My opinions only - employer has no opinions.