HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: glporter@zeus.calpoly.edu (Glen Porter)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Canon EOS 10s
Keywords: Canon
Date: 29 Sep 92 19:14:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo

In article <28SEP199218415005@envmsa.eas.asu.edu> gunawan@envmsa.eas.asu.edu (iwan gunawan) writes:
>In article <1992Sep21.205201.10737@walter.bellcore.com>, jkc@pyuxf.uucp
>(25312-choe) writes...
>>I'm considering buying a Canon EOS 10s camera.  Can anyone shed
>>some light as to if this is a good buy or not.
>I bought a 10s about a year and a half ago, and I'm definitely happy with
>it.  I was going for Nikon 8008S at first, but since Nikkor lenses cost
>more than Canon lenses, I took the 10s.  The only thing I miss so much from
>the camera is the spotmetering.
>
Don't forget that the Eos 10s has a partial metering mode,  that works for most
spotmeter needs - I specialize in hard to take pictures, and it has served me 
so well, that I leave my spot at home.
-glen

glporter@hebe.calpoly.edu                  (Glen Porter)   *
California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo   *
Network Administration - Technician        (805)756-1295   *
Electronic Engineering and Physics              Gal 2:16   *
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: sascbk@gibbs.unx.sas.com (Chuck Kelly)
Subject: Specs on Canon EF 24mm ?
Originator: sascbk@gibbs.unx.sas.com
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 14:19:53 GMT
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.


Could someone post the specs (size, weight, etc.) for the
Canon EF 24mm lens ?

Thanks in advance.

Chuck

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------
| Chuck Kelly         |                                       |
| sascbk@dev.sas.com  |                                       |
| SAS Institute Inc.  |                                       |
| (919) 677-8000      |                                       |
---------------------------------------------------------------
From: bsmith@ecst.csuchico.edu (Charles Bennett Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Canon EOS 650 For Sale
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:18:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: California State University, Chico
NNTP-Posting-Host: cscihp.ecst.csuchico.edu



Canon EOS 650 Camera
Canon EF Zoom Lens 35-70mm
OP/Tech Strap
Canon Speedlite 420 EZ Flash
Lowe-Pro Camera Bag

Book: "How To Select and Use Canon EOS SLR Cameras"

Price:  $350 OBO

This camera has been seen about 10 rolls of film go through it.  It is in
new condition.  If interested either email to bsmith@ecst.csuchico.edu
or call me at 343-5731.
-- 

Lassen Research                                   Bennett Smith
300 Salem Street                                  bsmith@ecst.csuchico.edu
Chico California  95928                           (916) 343-6421
From: d6jvb@dtek.chalmers.se (Johan von Boisman)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Need good shop in FL or MD
Date: 26 Sep 92 12:49:44 GMT
Organization: Chalmers University of Technology, Gothenburg Sweden


Hello all,

I'll spend Christmas in Florida (Tampa - Orlando) and am looking
for a good photo-gear store to get myself lots of christans presents.
I'll stop by in Baltimore on the way there, so places there would
also be of interest.

Any info would be appreciated!

Thanx in advance.


--
Johan von Boisman          Chalmers University of Technology
d6jvb@dtek.chalmers.se     Gothenburg, SWEDEN
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi)
Subject: Re: Nikon F prism: How to disassemble?
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 18:10:29 GMT

In article <1992Sep28.143043.187@cbnewsj.cb.att.com>, duane@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (duane.galensky) writes:
...
> does anyone have any idea how to accomplish this disassembly?
> are there screws under the leather that hold the
> innards into the housing?
> 
> any help short of a wild guess much appreciated...
> 
Not a wild guess, BUT, it is nearly 20 odd years... but I do remember I had
to glue the leather back on. ( I had to go out and buy some contact cement )
Sorry I can't remember the details better...

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Freezing Film
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 00:59:02 GMT

phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin) writes:
: 
:      At Nikon School they told us to keep film in its original box and
:      put it into a ziplock bag before freezing.  Frozen film should be
:      allowed to thaw 6 hours before opening its air-tight canister,
:      and should not be re-frozen or re-refrigerated.
: 
: 
: The part about not re-freezing is new and interesting to me.  Can
: anyone supply an explanation?  I've regularly been taking several
: rolls out of the freezer, taking them somewhere to shoot, then putting
: any unshot rolls left over back into the freezer for next time.  This
: has never caused me any problems that I've noticed.

It is new to me also. I have never had problems, even with film that has
been frozen and thawed half a dozen times, or more.

It sounds like they expect the film to have moisture in the emulsion which
might cause problems on refreezing.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: gunawan@envmsa.eas.asu.edu (iwan gunawan)
Subject: Re: Canon EOS 10s
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Keywords: Canon  
Organization: Arizona State University, Tempe, AZ
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 01:41:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep21.205201.10737@walter.bellcore.com>, jkc@pyuxf.uucp
(25312-choe) writes...

>I'm considering buying a Canon EOS 10s camera.  Can anyone shed
>some light as to if this is a good buy or not.

I bought a 10s about a year and a half ago, and I'm definitely happy with
it.  I was going for Nikon 8008S at first, but since Nikkor lenses cost
more than Canon lenses, I took the 10s.  The only thing I miss so much from
the camera is the spotmetering.

-- iwan gunawan
   gunawan@envmsa.eas.asu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rene@hardy.u.washington.edu (Rene Magritte)
Subject: chromoskedaesik techniques
Summary: ANybody had much luck with this?
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 06:07:27 GMT

  In the November 1991 issue of Scientific American, somebody wrote an
article on an image-making process that they had dubbed
"chromoskedesik painting".  You know how sometimes your photographs
turn yellow or reddish if they are improperly fixed/washed/whatevered?
Well, that turned this fellow on to the idea of using black and white
paper and chemicals to produce color paintings.   The main chemicals
listed were Dektol, S2 Activator, Ektamatic S30 stabilizer, and fixer
(of course).  By applying these in various sequences/ways, the  author
managed to create paintings with a variety of colors, including
yellows, reds, blues, greens and (not surprisingly) browns.  The
colors are not caused by dyes but rather specific scattering of light
caused by the metallic crystals formed in the paper.    
 
 	A fascinating article, and one which encouraged me to try this
myself.  After much effort, I'm frustrated to say that the author's
article isn't very useful -- his "directions" should have said
something more to the effect of "screw around with these chemicals,
various papers, and good luck to you."  I'm being a little unfair, but
after much trial and error and error, it seems that many
"fundementals" were ommitted in the article... 
  
	Has anybody else worked with this to any extent?  If so, I'd
like to know some of the things you've learned and conclusions you've
reached......
 
   		
			rene@hardy.u.washington.edu
From: U58402@uicvm.uic.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Stieglitz collection
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:20:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: uicvm.92274.102006U58402
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago

There are two books of Stieglitz's work that i know of off of the top
of my head. One is called "Alfred Stieglitz", published by Aperture.
The other is "Camera Work", which collects all of the photos from
"Camera Work", the magazine he edited in the 20's (?). Many of the photos
in this book are his, but there are also photos from many other
photographers. The reproduction quality is not as good in this book
as in the Aperture book.

I once saw a German book containing Camera Work picture, but I don't
know its name.


Wilbur Pan
(aka u58402@uicvm.uic.edu
 at the ever so friendly and personal univ. of ill. at chicago)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: DH02 <DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca>
Subject: Re: mailorder experience needed
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:34:50 GMT

In article <27688@nntp_server.ems.cdc.com> mtoms@ems.cdc.com (Mark Toms) writes:
>
>The word on the net seems to be 'avoid Smile Photo', though.
>
And not to mention our friends (!!) CAMBRIDGE and AAA......
Don't even be seen anywhere near these stores!!!!!!!

-Tamal Ghosh

Disclaimer:  I DON'T WORK FOR ANY CAMERA STORE, I NEVER DID AND I NEVER
             WILL......but if I don't get a job after my phd, maybe....
From: lakhindr@ESD.3Com.COM (Lakhinder Walia)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: A Summer's Day..
Keywords: BOOK  JOEL MEYEROWITZ
Date: 4 Oct 92 18:46:26 GMT
Distribution: rec

Hi folks,
  Going thru this book " A summer's Day" by Meyerowitz.., 
I was intrigued by the authors' photograph on the jacket ( at the back..).

It shows JM holding some kind of shield/polariser/filter in front of
his camera. Looks like it covers more than 50% of camera top view..

Could somebody explain what is he doing with that dark sheet..;

(Just to make sure we talk of same edition/photograph:
          ISBN 0-8129-1182-2 
First Edition , Copyright 1985 JM
Times Books)

Thanks
- lakhinder walia
 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lswab@x400gate.bnr.ca (Lyndon Swab)
Subject: How to use Tech Pan?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.,
Distribution: rec
Date: 02 Oct 92 14:13:48 GMT

A friend just gave me a roll of Tech Pan that she can't use.  I've
never used it either.  There is no ASA marked on the canister (no
other literature).  So the obvious questions are:

    - What's the ASA?
    - What E.I. should I expose it at?
    - What developer should I use, for how long, and at what temp?
      Do I have to use Technidol?  I already have TMAX developer, and
      a bit of old Ilfosol.  Can I use them?

Thanks in advance,
--
Lyndon Swab     lswab@bnr.ca, (613) 763-7165, ESN 393-7165
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: Re: Ektar vs. Gold
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 16:15:33 GMT


Both Ektar 25 and Kodak Gold Plus 100 are great films. However, the
higher speed version of Ektar (1000) does no do well with mixed or
tungsten light sources (it's hard to correct for tungsten in printing
with this film because of color crossover).
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: brucer@oz.plymouth.edu (Bruce Ritchie)
Subject: Re: DEVELOPING ONLY
Keywords: DEVELOPING ONLY
Reply-To: brucer@oz.plymouth.edu (Bruce Ritchie)
Organization: Plymouth State College - Plymouth, N.H.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 12:28:51 GMT

>First, is it possible to send a roll of film to a one hour place or
>to York or some other 'proof print place' (can't call it more than that
>since the prints usually look pathetic) and ask for the neg's not
>to be cut and left as a long strip?

	I wouldn't send the film to some cut-rate processor, but
rather take it either to a `real' camera store or a 1-hour processor
where you can explain, In Person, just what you want. Remember,
processors don't cut your negs into short strips until After they've
made your prints, so you're saving them an extra step...

>Second, if I have a long strip of
>neg's, would it be ok to say put it back into a film canister (maybe
>a bulk load canister) and then send it to some place to get more 'proof
>prints' for my friends.  That way, I can get a whole set of prints
>for only a few bucks instead paying $.50 or so per print.  Would the
>neg's be hurt in anyway due to the attempt at 're-developing' them?

	DON'T DO THIS! A great way to ruin your film. If you think you
may want `proof prints', just get them done at the time of processing!
You can save money Many better ways than this!

		brucer

-- 

	  "I hate television. I hate it as much as peanuts.
		  But I can't stop eating peanuts."
				Orson Wells
From: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: technical info (was Popular Photography, then Nikon magazine)
Date: 1 Oct 92 11:53:56 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems

>I don't particularly want a magazine that prints nice pictures made
>with Nikon equipment.  
>How do the rest of you feel about this situation?

Popular PHotography fills a niche- that of the casual photographer, or
introductory photographer, and one who wants to see the latest New York
prices.  However, now that New York prices are featured as "CALL!" or
"SAVE!!" the second function has fallen by the wayside.  I suspect that
the reason for not printing prices comes from the camera manufacturers,
and is done at the the expense of the comparison-shopping public.

To deal with your first question... I've long wondered how they get the
exposure information on photos they print- do these photographers really
wander around with notepads?  I doubt it; I think they often make it up for 
printing, because the magazine seems to think that readers see this info
as vital.  Similarly, I wonder how many published photographers really use
Nikons, etc.  Could it be that they "enhance" medium-priced brands, because
they think it makes their photo somehow more "professional?"  Just a thought.

	Dave
From: duane@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (duane.galensky)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Nikon F prism: How to disassemble?
Date: 28 Sep 92 14:30:43 GMT
Organization: AT&T

kids,

i'm in need of disassembling a nikon F plain prism finder
in order to remove a significant quantity of dust which
has accumulated behind the eyepiece.   normally i wouldn't
mind, but this is a LOT of dust.

after several close inspections and one failed attempt
on the most obvious screws (which took about an hour to 
replace because the threaded "nut" for them is trapped
between eyepiece elements) i surrendered in frustration.

i can clearly see four screws which hold the eyepiece to
the prism housing, but two of them are inaccessible
while the metal exterior housing is attached.  it's
like some bizarre paradox.

does anyone have any idea how to accomplish this disassembly?
are there screws under the leather that hold the
innards into the housing?

any help short of a wild guess much appreciated...

duane
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca (Govindaraju Rao)
Subject: Re: technical info (was Popular Photography, then Nikon magazine)
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 21:10:38 GMT


Barry Sherman writes:

>Actually, there are a significant number who *do* wander around with note
>pads.  I've found my notes absolutely invaluable at times when I want to
>figure out what went wrong.  And it's nice when people ask "How long an
>exposure did it take to turn that surf into fog?" to be able to tell them
>because I checked my notes before I displayed the print.

>Not only do I wander around with a notepad, it's a custom designed notepad 
>filled with "Zone System" notepages - space to record the film used, exposure 
>index, filter used, film holder number, date, location, several meter readings 
>(in EV) of various portions of the scene, Zone placement and falls (sometimes 
>several iterations when deciding which filter to use), basic exposure derived 
>from these meterings, bellows extension correction and reciprocity departure
>correction.

 Even though my notes are **NOT** as detailed as Barry's I think
 I have a record of at least 70% of my slides. The info goes onto
 the slide mount. 
 
 A friend of mine uses a Munsell Colour Chart (soil scientists know
 more about this). Whenever he is trying to get just the right colour
 he makes a note of the exact colour using the Chart as a guide. 
 After the sildes come back from processing he does a sort of
 post mortem :-) 
 
 IMO it is practically impossible to make notes when you are 
 photographing babies. Although I use a micro-cassette recorder
 I barely find time to dictate. Besides, I use auto-settings most
 when shooting babies. So there is really is no need to record. 
 
 G.S.K. Rao <rao@ccu.umanitoba.ca>  <rao@ccm.umanitoba.ca>
From: IO92112@MAINE.MAINE.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Experience with Canon EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM
Date: 3 Oct 92 18:11:42 GMT
 <1aghq1INN5td@introl.introl.com>
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Maine System
uwm.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!introl.introl.com!introl.
introl.com!not-for-mail
From: tim@introl.com (Tim Chase)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Experience with Canon EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM
Date: 2 Oct 92 04:05:21 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Introl Corp.
NNTP-Posting-Host: introl.introl.com

In article <lcm810INN8fd@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> sdm@pyramid.Corp.Sun.COM (Scott
Mann) writes:
>In article <BvF7pC.93q@acsu.buffalo.edu> tklai@acsu.buffalo.edu (Tobysze K.
Lai) writes:
>>
>>So, if anyone who owns or has experience with this USM lens, any advice or
>>comment is greatly appreciated.  There is one question in my mind, though,
>>is the lens quality of the 100-300 USM really better than the 75-300?  And
>>how would it compare to the Sigma 75-300 f/4.5-5.6 APO? (The difference in
>>price is only $40)
>
>I own, and use extensively, the 100-300mm f4.5-5.6 USM.  I have
>found it to be an excellent lens.  It takes very sharp pictures

|> I 've also got one and must agree. Also it's practically silent and
|> focuses very fast. The downside is it eats batteries.

Another problem I have with this zoom is that its zoom ring is very loose.
When the zoom are hold at the verticle position, the zoom ring will slide
down. The EF 75-300mm/3.5 has the same problem.

G a r r y -
internet: io92112@maine.maine.edu
bitnet:   io92112@maine.bitnet
voice :   207-581-3795
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: mkuhn@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (Martin W Kuhn)
Subject: Re: Pentax Auto 110 info wanted
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:18:20 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.161248.4977@hfsi.uucp> bower@hfsi.UUCP (Michael Bower Comm. ) writes:
>Rec.photo netters:
>I have a chance to get a Pentax Auto 110 system here in my area.  This is
>a 110 camera that is basically a miniature SLR with several lenses.

Well, I have an Auto 110 and have used it quite a bit so I think I can help.
 
First off, the Pentax Auto 110 is my favorite 110 camera ever made.  
(second place would be the Cannon 110 ED20)  It is very small and compact,
as you mention, and did have a rather nice array of lenses and accessories
made for it.  However, it does have some flaws that I should point out:
 
- The "low-speed" (normal) film key is set to 100 ASA rather than the usual
  64 or 80 ASA.  As a result, slides generally turn out underexposed.  
  (However, Kodak has (unfortunately) discontinued Kodachrome and Ektachrome
   in 110 format, so perhaps this problem is only academic...)

- It is not a particularly easy camera to hand-hold well at slow shutter
  speeds due to its small, irregular shape.
 
- It is not particlarly durable or dust-tight, but with reasonable care will  
  last well.  Just don't jam it in your pocket without a case or you'll be
  sorry later.

- Most of the lenses other than the normal 24mm are rather bulky and make
  the camera much less pocketable.  The motor drive and flash units also
  reduce the pocketability of the camera.  However, even with all this 
  stuff, it's probably still more pocketable than the Minolta 110 SLR Zoom
  Mark II....
   
 
In terms of performance, it's pretty good for a 110.  However, I vastly 
prefer 110 slides over prints, so I don't use my Pentax Auto 110 too much
anymore...

There was also a short-lived Auto 110 Super model which had a self-timer
and backlight exposure compensation.   

I think there were two flash attachments made, the AF100P and the AF130P
(not entirely sure of the model numbers) of which the AF100P is the 
smaller and more common model. 
 
The lenses avaiable included (as far as I can recall):
  18mm f/2.8 pan focus
  18mm f/2.8 adj. focus
  24mm f/2.8 
  50mm f/2.8
  70mm f/2.8
  20-40mm zoom f/2.8

Most of these are fairly common except the 70mm and the 20-40mm.

There was also a motor winder available.

That's about all the info I can remember offhand.  In general, the Auto 110
is a very nice clever little camera and is quite usable if you keep its
limitations in mind.  It is, however, becomming quite collectible, so
its price has climbed quite a bit in the last few years.  (I bought mine
back when it was considered an "unsellable dog" for only $40)    
 
 
               --Marty
From: kbb0@harvey.gte.com (Kevin Burke)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Tonal separation of various formats (was: Zonies ... help)
Summary: Mackie Line/Eberhard Effect rather than Kostinsky effect?
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:30:39 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.032626.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>, zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:
> In article <46520042@hpscit.sc.hp.com>, feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman) writes:
> > I have two questions which some experienced "zonies" should be able
> > to answer:
> > 
> > 1. Do larger negs give better tone separation than smaller negs? Why?
> > 
> 
> Yes. The larger size reduces the Kostinshy effect. Hence the B-W transitions
> are more accurate in the intermediate grey areas.

"Photographic Sensitometry" by Todd and Zakia describes the Kostinsky
Effect as one which affects the shape and displacement of very small,
highly exposed areas adjacent to an area of low exposure. This affects
the accuracy and resolving capabilities of the film.

Todd and Zakia describe an edge effect called the Mackie Line where an
area of high exposure next to an area of low exposure results in a
higher than expected density at the boundary between the areas. I would
speculate that when a smaller negative is enlarged this effect might
be more noticable since the magnification involved is usually larger
relative to a larger format. This edge effect is a consequence of diffusion
during develoment. 

When the shapes of the high and low exposure areas are circular the
effect is refered to as the Eberhard Effect.

Regards, Kevin
From: patrice@cs.concordia.ca (SCATTOLIN patrice)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: about N90.
Date: 27 Sep 92 15:29:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: daily-pl.5112
Organization: Computer Science, Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec

In article <1992Sep24.132110.1@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg> tjlow@ntuvax.ntu.ac.sg writes:
>
>    (1)	Is the N90 a battery burner?
>	How long does the batteries last? (How many?)
>

	Should not be worst than the F801s. Batteries ar 4 AA so easy to find.
	
>    (2) Does it allow more than 36 shots?

	The salesman says it does. I have not tested it

>
>    (3) Does it autofocus well in dim condition?
>
	Supposed to focus better than the F4 and F801 in dim light, as
	well the meter mesures to smaller E values.
>Thanks in advance.


-- 
Patrice Scattolin
					patrice@cs.concordia.ca
Concordia University			Montreal, Canada
"I am so far north that Santa lives two blocks from me"