HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In <1992Mar26.181400.10132@eff.org> Peter A. Cohen writes:

>One word of advice, however- make sure you replace the headlamp quickly. 
>Depending on what sort of car you drive, you can expect the other
>headlamp to go fairly soon because of the load differences...
                                           ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Load differences causes this?  I would expect the alternator could keep up
with any normal load that you can put on it.  I would have guessed the other
headlamp to go soon only because it is likely that BOTH original lamps were
manufactured at the same time (same parts and possibly same machine) and
with other bulbs, have a very uniform life.  That's why many large corporations
replace ALL of their light bulbs at once, to minimize the maintenance cost
of replacing onesy-twosy bulbs once they start going.

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
From: blain@gdc.com (Robert Blain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: OIL USAGE on 3.8l Pontiac V6 '82
Date: 7 Apr 92 18:07:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: esun_ser.305

I have a 1982 Pontiac Grand Prix with 71k miles which I
purchased new.  I have kept up on oil changes (every 3k miles)
and use name brand 10w40 oil.  I took a recent trip of 250
miles and used one full quart.

I don't see any smoking from the exhaust when I accellerate or
decellerate.  The car leaks a small amount (one maybe two drops
when parked overnite).  It has good pep and my gas mileage is
between 20 and 25 mpg depending on my driving.

I have a factory oil pressure gauge which reads over 60 psi
when the engine is cold and hovers around 40 psi after warm-
up on the highway.  When the engine is idling the gauge sits
on the halfway mark between the 40 and 0.

I also do not see any evidence of oil in the radiator fluid.

One other thing.  This car is used primarily for trips and
is not driven daily.

Any clues out there?

Thanks!
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5476 rec.autos.sport:3115 rec.autos.driving:2169
From: cm@cci632.cci.com (Carl Mercer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Sorry for the flood of messages
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:36:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Consoles Incorporated



I'm sorry for the 5 (maybe more) messages posted about the Toyota.  The
stupid system would timeout one each post.  I didn't think they were getting
sent.  Again, I'm sorry.

                                            carl
					    cm@cci.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: HILFE!!!
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 09:20:04 GMT

In article <1992Apr13.054108.16297@menudo.uh.edu> kevin@taronga.taronga.com (Kevin Brown) writes:
>In article <1992Apr12.173602.29695@nntp.hut.fi> iceman@vipunen.hut.fi (Joni Siltaniemi) writes:
>>Achtung BMW-drivers in Germany!!!
>>
>>I have an old BMW 315. I am coming to Germany in summer and I'm going
>>to have the "engine" replaced there.
>
>The "engine"?  You mean what's under the hood now isn't a real engine?
>
>Well, if you want a *real* engine, why not try putting in a Ford 302?  :-)

the hartge grand national was a BMW 318i with the buick turbo V-6 in it.
i actually saw one of these things... it's *fast*.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Problem with rebuilt Holly 390cfm. 4 barrel - help Hot Rodders
From: dhoward@desire.wright.edu (sparky-desire)
Date: 12 Apr 92 11:51:40 EST
Distribution: usa
Organization: Wright State University 

In article <1992Apr9.173423.18567@unvax.union.edu>, romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski) writes:
> The car was running fine when I removed the carberator and I brought it
> to a highly recommended mechanic who rebuilds carbs. when I got it back
> and put it on my car the car started up good but I couldnt quite get it to 
> idle smoothly so when it warmed up I decided to take it for a ride.
> 
> If you baby the car from the line its ok but if you step quickly on the gas
> it dies right out. This also seems to happen at any speed when you step too
> quickle on the gas. If you baby it and get it going or pump the gas
> it seems to run pretty good. 

holley's have in their primary bowl a gadget called a power valve.
it senses the intake vacume, and when the demand is there, it will
open up, thereby bi-passing the main jets.  when you re-build your
holley, the kit comes with a new power valve.  it happened to me
once that the spring in the new power valve was heavier than the
old one, and my intake vacume wasn't strong enough to actuate it.
the result was that the car "fell on it's face" whenever i stepped
on it.  i put the old power valve back in, and the problem went
away.
the power valves come with a variety of spring tensions.  all the
springs are color coded.  you should check this.  i think that you
can get a power valve spring kit from holley if you cannot get hold
of the old power valve any more.  then it's a matter of trial and
error to get the right tensioned spring.

-- 
.sparky.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:5908 rec.autos.driving:2466
From: gregc@yaya (Gregory M Charland)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: Rolling a car, general questions
Date: 16 Apr 92 15:41:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: wpi.1992Apr16.154106.13898
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute

In article <1992Apr13.195928.12344@fwhnm02.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com> rlatham@fwhnm02.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com (Russ Latham) writes:
>
>I have a few questions about rolling a car.  Is it possible
>to tell at what point a car will start sliding when going 
>around a corner, before it happens?
   Yeah!  The tires squeal and shriek, it gets really tough to keep it in
the line you've chosen, and you KNOW you're going to fast!
   Well, it's really not that simple.  In the rain, the tires won't say nearly
as much, but if you have a good set, you can tell when they're breaking away.
>And what is the possibility of rolling a car in a corner?
   Very low unless you're pretty daring/stupid.  I've got an '84 Toyota
4Runner, a sport-utility, that's supposed to be a high-centered-type vehicle.
Tho I've done a few things I'd consider stupid, in almost any case the tires
will lose their grip before your center of gravity goes that far out.
   Especially with a car...
>What do I need to watch for in order NOT TO ?
   Don't do anything that you think is stupid.  Don't do anything that feels
like it's too fast!  (You know your car better than I do)
>Any advice as to how to tell the limit of a curve, like
>how much over the posted speed is generally safe?
   Depends where you live.  In MA on big roads (i.e. Rte 2 to Boston, I495,
I190) add about 20-25 depending on your car.  But I've also heard of a corner
(in AZ, maybe) that's posted 5mph.  Most vehicles can't even take it at that
speed.
>I'm driving a '92 Honda Prelude 'S' Model (base model), 
   Be careful, and don't get into a broadside collision.  You've got
dangerously little side protection.
   You should consider some sort of performance driving program.  One of the
expensive ones with BMWs, or even "Skid School," where they teach you all
about skids and how to manage them.  It's a blast!
[Cool story 'bout MR2 deleted]

>Russ Latham (rlatham@mailbox.fwrdc.rtsg.mot.com)
             (latham@motcid.rtsg.mot.com)



-- 
     ---------------------------------------------
      Gregory M. Charland-----> gregc@wpi.wpi.edu  
     ---------------------------------------------
From: henrik@stat.tamu.edu (Henrik Schmiediche)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Slick-50 for a rotary engine?
Date: 17 Apr 92 15:47:19 GMT
Organization: Department of Statistics, TAMU



     Hi, 

I've had quite a few people tell me about the virtues of this oil
additive/substitute called Slick-50. When I point out that I have a 81
Mazda RX-7 which has rotary engine and ask if this stuff is
good/worthwhile on rotary engines, I usually get blank stares and
uncertain opinions. So I was wondering if anyone here knows anything
about Slick-50 and rotary engines. Specifically is it worth it on a
rotary engine with 120,000 miles on it (but otherwise good shape)?

Any responses can be e-mailed or posted to this newsgroup and if I
get a significant response I will gladly post a summary. I will not
be able to respond to anyone until Sunday night. Thanks for any info.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mlesch@csd.uwo.ca (Mike Esch)
Subject: Re: Turbocharger VS. Supercharger.
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Western Ontario, London
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 04:27:18 GMT

In article <gt2t7th@rpi.edu> stiegg@aix02.ecs.rpi.edu (Gregory Mark Stiegler) writes:
>koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:
>
>>well, quick vocabulary reminder...  any device which forces an engine to intake
>>more air than it would under ambient atmospheric pressure alone is correctly
>>referred to as 'supercharger'; regardless of drive mechanism.  a 'turbocharger'
>>is correctly refered to as 'turbine-driven supercharger' and a roots blower
>>(like a GMC 6-71 type) is correctly identified as a 'mechanically-driven
>>supercharger'.  a single-speed driven, mechanically-driven, positive
>>displacement supercharger (GMC 6-71) suffers from a couple problems it does not
>>compensate for high altitude effects -- a turbine-driven centrifugal
>>supercharger (turbocharger) will rotate more rapidly in the less-dense air at
>>altitude and maintain closer to sea-level performance than is posible
>>otherwise.  this is one tremendous advantage of turbine vs. mechanical drive.
>
>
>>hmmm, somewhere i got the impression that rotary engines are picky about
>>exhaust backpressure; if this is the case, then a mechanically-driven,
>>variable-speed-drive centrifugal supercharger might be just what you need.
>>this would solve the shortcomings of the positive-displacement, single speed
>>supercharger and the (much of) the lag problem of the turbine driven...
>
>>i *think* Paxton' makes/made such a device (late 1950's Studebakers had this
>>type supercharger/drive).
>
>>walt k.
>
>And I suppose you refer to detonation as Thermal Preignition of Combustables
>many of us here don't want a college symposium here...there is a differnce,
>most of us are practical, not theoretical.
>

This is rec.autos.tech...not rec.autos.practical (a.k.a. rec.autos).
I find many of the postings/responses very useful and interesting.

Just my 2 cents...

Mike


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: kaleb@thyme.jpl.nasa.gov (Kaleb Keithley)
Subject: Re: what happened to volvo mailing list
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Pasadena, CA
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 15:35:13 GMT

In article <1992Apr14.145102.24530@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) writes:
>
>is the volvo mailing list still active ?
>sending mail to volvo-net@me.rochester.edu just bounces back
>with user unknown error.
>

try swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

-- 

Kaleb Keithley                               kaleb@thyme.jpl.nasa.gov

Not authorized, in any way, shape, or form, to speak for anyone.
From: dsr@chickpea.mitre.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Can you flood a fuel injected car??
Date: 9 Apr 92 15:37:04 GMT
Article-I.D.: chickpea.DSR.92Apr9103704
Distribution: rec
Organization: The MITRE Corporation

In article <1992Apr7.163632.21536@b23a.ingr.com> bishop@b23a.ingr.com (David Bishop) writes:

   ...
    When I start the car when the engine is cold, I usually just
   turn the key, without pressing the gas pedal, and the car starts
   just like a properly tuned car should. However, lately I have 
   done the same as always, cranking the car without first touching the gas,
   and if the engine doesn't catch in the first 5-10 seconds, it just
   won't crank at all.It turns over but it just won't crank. I have to wait
   approx. 30 min. before I can get the thing to start. Now if I tap
   the gas when I first crank it, it starts ok. 
   ...
   Any bright ideas are most appreciated. Thanx

Yes.  Buy a new cold start valve.  It is normally very difficult 
to "flood" a fuel injected car and you normally do not have to
hit the gas on a cold car.  If the cold start valve is bad,  then
it will drip gas into the manifold,  which will quickly flood
the engine if it doesn't start right away.  You might also check
the thermo time switch or other timed device that is controlling 
the cold start valve.  

--
Douglas S. Rand 
Internet:   <dsrand@mitre.org>
Snail:	    MITRE, Burlington Road, Bedford, MA 
Disclaimer: MITRE might agree with me - then again...
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nash@ucselx.sdsu.edu (Ron Nash)
Subject: Re: catalytic catastrophe on Miata
Organization: San Diego State University Computing Services
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 18:04:30 GMT

coleman@riemann.gsfc.nasa.gov writes:

>HELP!!!
>I own what once was a trouble free 1990 Mazda Miata which I purchased
>in July 1989. With the exception of replacing the rag top 3 separate 
>times, maintenance was minimal to none. 
...
>install job, BUT today a newer louder rattle has surfaced. My dealer looked
>at it this morning and claims it is coming from inside the catalytic converter.
>Since my mileage is now at 52k this new part is going to cost me $600 +
>labor!!! (warranty = 5yrs || 50k miles) Does anybody have an opinion on 

Run, don't walk to an independent muffler shop and have a new aftermarket
cat installed for about $200.  Prices on cats range from around $80 to
$150 for most vehicles plus installation.  The cat on my Ford F150 died
at about 60K miles.  I don't see how Mazda could have contributed to your
cat's demise.




-- 
Ron Nash 	San Diego State University
Internet:  	nash@ucselx.sdsu.edu
Gin-N-Tonic	6 year old Arab/Saddlebred endurance horse
Luv on Fire	9 year old Arab, trusty trail horse
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: California emissions, new cars, and moving to California
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:17:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpspkla.31160035
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

If you are all set to buy a new car, and cannot wait until you get to
California, you might be able to buy one with California emissions in
Chicago.  This can be done, though it is usually a hassle.

Or you can use the previous poster's technique of just driving you new
car until you have 7500 miles and 90 days on it.  There are a lot of 
out-of-state cars in California, so you could probably delay registration
and not get caught.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford 150 Blues
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 21:00:44 -0500

look at the clutch master.  is there fluid leaking on the uotsode 
by the back??
look at where the master hooks to the firewall from the inside--id 
there a fluid leak??
look at the slave--is there a fluid leak??
if the area by the slave is too dirty spray a bunch of engine cleaner 
around it, refill the master, and watch as someone pumps the clutch.
I am 99% sure you have a bum slave or master cyl.
If it is not too expensive I would r&r both...
From: bspahh@gdr.bath.ac.uk (Andrew Henry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rolling a Civic.. or a Rabbit
Keywords: rolling, Civic, Rabbit
Date: 7 Apr 92 17:59:14 GMT
Organization: School of Biological Sciences, University of Bath, UK

In article <7jnjaj=.pauly@netcom.com> pauly@netcom.com (Paul Yoshimune) writes:
>Yes, it can be done, but you'd have to hit it just right.  In general, a car
>like a Civic will plow the front end if subjected to a very hard turn all of
>a sudden.  Were you to toss the car one way, then immediately go the other,
>it would be more likely to pitch the car.  Other cars, like Rabbits, are more
>prone to rolling the car.  In fact, you often see Rabbits, GTIs, and 2002s
>lifting the inner rear wheel when cornering excessively hard...
>
Yes, but I don't know that lifting a wheel is that much of a 
problem - on a front wheel drive car, you only have rear wheels to stop 
the body from scraping along the ground. If the suspension is soft enough
to absorb bumps, you're going to get some weight transference.

I think that the reason why a Rabbit might roll more easily than say a Volvo
740 is that its narrower, and you can be travelling faster through a corner
without getting terminal understeer.

			Andrew  Henry
Sempre  Gilles					bspahh@gdr.bath.ac.uk
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: monza exhaust system
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 21:41:50 -0500

They are ok, but do not last real long.  there is a place called 
payco in alabama I think which sells a prima-flow system which they 
claim gives you even more power then the monza, and also is said 
to last a lot longer.  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: KEZER@daq.semi.harris.com (Larry Kezer)
Subject: Re: TRIPLE EDGE WIPER QUESTION
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 00:48:27 GMT
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Data Acquisition Products, Santa Clara CA

In <1992Apr8.220232.24299@ncsu.edu> aadada@eos.ncsu.edu writes:
> DEAR FRIENDS, 
> 
>            AS I WAS WALKING ALONG THE AISLES OF THE LOCAL PEP BOYS YESTERDAY,
> I NOTICED A DISPLAY FOR "TRIPLE EDGE WIPERS".  THE AD CLAIMED THAT THE WIPERS
> WOULD NEVER GO BAD AND DO A BETTER JOB OF WIPING.  I FOUND THE PRICE OF $15 
> PRETTY STEEP FOR WIPERS.  MY QUESTION IS, IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO HAS
> TRIED A PAIR AND IS IT REALLY WORTH THE MONEY?
> 
>   	    THANKS IN ADVANCE.

A few years ago I purchased a set for my 1984 Honda Accord. They did a 
terrible job of clearing the windshield, so I removed them after a couple
of weeks. They recommend a "break in" period, but it was not safe to use them.
I have not tried them again since.

However, I know someone who has them on a Jeep, and is quite satisfied
with them. So take your pick.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vwelch@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Von Welch)
Subject: Re: Are '83 Subaru brake discs removable?
Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp App (NCSA) @ University of Illinois
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 14:17:08 GMT

In article <1992Apr8.020329.29097@beaver.cs.washington.edu>, franz@cs.washington.edu (Franz G. Amador) writes:
|> Does anybody know if the front brake rotors of an '83 Subaru GL wagon
|> can be removed for resurfacing? _How_to_Keep_Your_Subaru_Alive_ says
|> they can, a local respected tire/brake/alignment shop says they can't.
|> 
|> Franz Amador
|> franz@cs.washington.edu
|> {rutgers,cornell,ucsd,ubc-cs,tektronix}!uw-beaver!june!franz

 Yes, they come off. When I took mine off to be turned I left them attached to 
the holder (this isn't the correct term, but I forget what it is) as John Muir
suggests in _How_to_Keep_Your_Subaru_Alive_. He says to do it that way because
when you rebolt the disc onto the holder it could warp it somewhat. Anyways
I took it to a chain-type auto parts store and they turned it with no
problem.

 I didn't actually take them off the holder as I didn't need to, but Muir says,
and it appeared so to me by looking at them, that it's just a matter of 4 bolts.

-- 
Von Welch
vwelch@ncsa.uiuc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: an honest mechanic!
From: hugh@fivegl.co.nz (Hugh Grierson)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 01:12:32 GMT
Reply-To: hugh@fivegl.co.nz (Hugh Grierson)
Organization: Task Management Ltd, Auckland, New Zealand

In article <1992Apr6.003830.19384@fivegl.co.nz> derek@fivegl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
>In article <9204021658.AA10587@volitans.morningstar.com> you write:
>>When I sit at a traffic light with the clutch pedal depressed, the
>>clutch gradually engages itself... 
>
> If one rainy day you get into
>the car with muddy feet and your foot slips,(or a siren in the 
>distance makes you turn your body slightly or a really attractive 
>girl walks past ). Car jumps forward into moving traffic stream
>and  BLAM #*$@&! Several thousand dollars worth of panel work.

Yes, sigh...  I stripped the gear box on my old '78 Avenger like
this.  About to drive off, I'm in reverse, left foot on clutch, right
firmly planted on brake.  The left (passenger side) speaker isn't
working, so I lean over to give it the whack it deserves.  While leaning
over all my weight went onto the brake pedal.  At least when the clutch
engaged the brakes stopped me from going anywhere - unfortunately I
also lost reverse gear.  For the rest of the summer I was only able to
parallel park on hills.

-- 
-Hugh Grierson--hugh@fivegl.co.nz----------Go fast or go home----------------
-Task Management Ltd-Auckland-New Zealand-Ph:+64.9.5206109-Fax:+64.9.5206101-
From: mlaporta@lonestar.utsa.edu (Michael P. Laporta)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Ford 200-250 swap  Any difference??
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:41:13 GMT
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio


Bout to swap the engine in the wife's car and would like to swap out the
200 for the 250,  Any differences besides a different water pump ??
Are there any problems/ ideas I should know before doing it???
Didn't ford just bore and stroke it ( 289-302 ) ???


-- 
==============================================================================
Michael LaPorta                                 You get what you pay for
UT San Antonio     mlaporta@lonestar.utsa.edu     That's why advice is free !
==============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: krc@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (kenton.cabiness)
Subject: GM TH350 Trans. questions/problems
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 16:07:25 GMT
Keywords: Firebird, identification, swaps.

Having just recently purchased a '75 Firebird with a bad transmission
(yes, I knew it when I bought it), I have some questions that I hope
someone can help me with from their experiences.

The Trans. does nothing in any of the forward gears.  There is a very
slight drop in idle speed (I would guess much less than 50 rpm, hardly
noticable if at all).  It does lock in very hard and normal in reverse.
Since reverse works fine, I assume that the filter is fine.  I put a
new modulator on it, but that had no affect (I can always dream can't I).
The trans fluid does have a burn't smell and is a little dark, but I have
seen much worse in trans. that are functioning normally.
Any suggestions anyone?  Taking it to AAMCO is not acceptable to me.

I currently have a '78 Firebird parts car (in another state) with a
305 automatic in it.  From my research, the 305 is a Chevy engine,
not a Pont.  I don't remember if the bell-housing is the same for
a Chevy and a Pont. or not.  If it is, does the 305 have a TH350
or a TH250 behind it?  This other car has not been driven for 5-7
years.  What are the odds that the seals in it need to be replaced
or worst case, the entire trans. needing a rebuild.

I am very mechanically inclined, so, Is a TH350 trans rebuild feasable
to try at home with "normal" (or a few specialized) tools?

Any help with these questions will be greatly appreciated!

Kenton Cabiness
AT&T Bell Labs
(708) 979-0458
krc@ihlpe.att.com