From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Desision on buying 69 Camero
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:13:51 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 For almost $7K, it'd better be damn near perfect, maybe even a convertible
too. Amateur restorations depend on the skill and dedication of said
amateur as far as longevity. If the guy gobbed Bondo over rust, by Spring
you may be looking at a restoration project of your own. For a high-buck
"restored" car you want some degree of assurance that you are paying for 
quality. Remember, shine is only on the surface.

 That someone didn't get around to putting the emblems on, etc. says to me
that they were not extremely dedicated. A True Restoration Fanatic would
understand that another True Restoration Fanatic would never pay that kind
of money for an unfinished job (unless it were a car with extremely high
intrinsic value; Camaros, like most mass production musclecars, generally
do not have high intrinsic value. The value lies in the quality of their
condition and the rarity/desirability/originality of their options).

 Do you know where the "trouble spots" for rust might be on this car? 
I do not. However, in northern (salt) climates the rear wheel wells, the 
bottoms of doors, the front fenders bottom rear (between the front wheels
and the doors) and the floor pans are often the first spots to rust. The
rear wheel wells are the easiest to check and will reveal a "Bondo mechanic"
for what he is. Feel the inner lip. It should be 2 layers of sheet metal,
thin and sharp. If it is 1/4" thick, or has a "soft"/"lumpy" edge, you have
found, not gold, but plastic. 

 Other areas of Bondo-itis may be found by knocking, by using a small 
magnet, one of those fancy "rot-spot" gauges, etc. Basically, for the kind
of money you're talking, you're entitled to a rust-free vehicle (or damn
near). A short-cut approach is no kind of guarantee of thoroughness at
lower levels.

 Check the floor pans from the underside for pop rivet heads, rust holes,
pieces of carpet hanging down, etc. Check carefully for any blisters in
the paint. Look for any ripples in the surface; factory sheet metal is
straight or uniformly curved. If the paint is shiny, use the reflection
of a straightedge.

 In the engine compartment, look for signs that the engine has been 
modified (headers, aluminum aftermarket intake, chrome, etc.). If original
engine pieces are missing, you might as well not have an original engine.
Might as well have a -very- modified engine. If the engine is suspiciously
clean, is it because they guy is Mr. White Glove or is it because it needed
steam cleaning to get rid of all the oil blow?

 An unmolested posi rear end can be identified by a small aluminum tag on
the differential cover which says "Use Only Limited-Slip Gear Oil" or
something like that. If no tag is present, you have to test it. Put the
trans in neutral, chock one rear tire and jack the other off the ground.
Now turn the wheel by hand. An open diff will spin freely. A posi unit will
resist until some breakaway torque is reached. If you can't break it away,
be careful - on rare occasions idiots install locked or welded center
sections (like, mondo traction, dude) which are bad news for handling,
tire wear and maybe safety. The breakaway should be fairly high on a tight
posi unit (maybe 50-100lb on a 2' lever, from my experience). Anyhow,
telling open from posi is easy.
-- 
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