From: braker@dutiws.twi.tudelft.nl (Hans Braker)
Subject: [Report] South India to Nepal in four weeks - week 3 [long]
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 07:54:47 GMT

Part 3 of the travelogue. Part 4 will deal with the last week, in and around 
Kathmandu. Part 1 was posted last year, part 2 last week.

Feedback still appreciated.

Hans Braker and Thea van Zon - The Netherlands


**************** Part3 - arrival at Jhansi

DAY 14:
=======	This train arrived exactly on schedule. We walked to hotel Veerangana
(a long walk and not advisable other than in the morning's cool weather). 
Our room cost Rs 103. Double doors offered fresh air without mosquitos. This
friendly, though slow and not always very clean hotel is situated outside the
center, if at least one can speak of a center. Like Aurangabad, Jhansi is
spread out on a large area. Behind the hotel we saw some soldiers preparing a
terrain for some kind of festivity. In India it is an honour to be in the army;
soldiers have many privileges.
	The breakfast we had was of extremely poor quality and quantity. We
decided not to eat anything there anymore. The breakfast included frozen soda,
a tiny little pancake as large as a cigar, and fat French toast. Expensive for
Rs 38. Our conjecture that a more expensive hotel has less quality seemed to
hold true once more. 
	After breakfast we walked to the fort. On the way there we saw almost
only shops for cars and motorbikes. The fort is beautiful, and because it was
Friday entrance was free. The fort has been used by the army until recently,
and much of it remained intact so one gets a good impression of it.
	We took a rickshaw to the shopping area near Nav Bharat restaurant,
where we just strolled around and examined the shops. We had a drink near a
`pan' shop, of which we saw many but had not found out yet what it was exactly.
It turned out that pan is a kind of mouthfreshener, wrapped in a leaf when
prepared on the spot. Otherwise it can be bought in small bags. Almost 
everyone buys and eats some pan several times daily. The pan seller gave us 
a little of his merchandise and it was refreshing indeed! 
	In one of the shops Thea bought an Indian outfit: salwar + kameez, 
beside the saree the only clothing for ladies. Buying clothes is a funnny 
ritual; the buyer and the seller sit down on a platform, and the seller takes 
material from his stock while the customer tries to choose. All clothes are
unpacked and unfolded, even if you said you don't like the look of it. It's 
a lot of work folding and packing everything again afterward. The set of
trousers and skirt cost Rs 215. The sellers are always men, not only for 
clothes but in each and every shop we have been in.
	Back to the hotel by auto-rickshaw (Rs 10), where we met a German
tourist who travelled around on his own. He told us he had been having severe
stomach problems for about a week, and that he had been seeing a doctor who
prescribed him several different pills. The fact that you can catch an 
illness which would leave you helpless seems a good reason not to travel 
through India on your own. When you're two there's always someone who can 
go out for help or at least for shopping.
	At the station we could not make reservations for Agra, so we had 
to try our luck two days later. Back to the area where we had also been that
afternoon, where we took a good dinner at Nav Bharat Restaurant. It's very
scarcely lit, but the cook knows what he's doing. They also know what to do
when the electricity is (again!) cut off. The candles are lit in no time.
We had a look at the shops again. It seemed as if other shops were open than
the ones we saw during daytime. At Nav Bharat Bakery, which is a small
very well-equipped supermarket, we took provisions including tomato chips 
to have with a beer back at the hotel. Nice quiet evening with a drink, a 
snack and a good book!
	We noticed in Jhansi and surroundings that very few people speak
English. It was the only place we visited where that was a bit of a problem.
Communication can be hard, but the people keep on trying. Many even just
started speaking Hindi to us! They are very curious about foreigners and 
love to shake hands.

DAY 15:
======= The soldiers behind the hotel made an enormous noise so we woke up
early. Not bad, since we had a day trip planned to Orchha (we still don't 
know how to pronounce it properly), an old village with a huge palace and
several temples. It all looks a bit run down but the atmosphere is certainly
very special. At the bus station (Rs 10 from the hotel) we had to wait for
about an hour until the bus (Rs 8) finally drove off. But there was so much 
to see at the bus station that we absolutely did not get bored. So many 
people, buying, selling, working, travelling, waiting, cooking, eating...
	On the way between Jhansi and Orchha the bus crosses the state border
between Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh several times. At each of those 
points there is a barrier and the bus driver has to pay taxes. All around 
Orchha there is still an old wall, and a narrow gate indicates the entrance.
	From the bus stop we went across the river and up to the Palace, where
(as indicated in the Kit) an old gatekeeper will show you the paintings or 
what is left of them. It must all have been beautiful but what remains is
merely very large. It is now possible to walk from to room where once there
must have been gates in the enormous labyrinth. At the higher levels the walls
are beautifully decorated and small towers determine the village's skyline.
Like at many other places we were totally surprised by the amount and the 
size of the birds of prey, notably the vultures. These huge animals either 
flew low over our heads or were sitting on the towers, where their size could
be seen to be about that of a six year old.
	Back in the village, in the temple opposite the square many people 
were involved in the ongoing rituals. Bells and fire were the main ingredients.
	While waiting for the bus we were really getting annoyed about all the
children paying so much attention to us. It was one of the very few places
where we were getting irritated about their behaviour. On the way back we had
to change buses at a crossing, and for some reason the ride cost a rupee more
per person.
	At the hotel we talked to the manager who had enjoyed his education in
hotel management at Austria, and who had seen quite a bit of the world. But
after all he felt best in his home country.
	We also found out what the soldiers had been doing behind the hotel:
there was a charity action going on, organised among others by the army. Also
many soldiers' wives participated in the organisation of the food stalls, the
game corners and the clothes shops. Being the only foreigners we received a
warm welcome by the head organiser, but only until some high-ranking officer
arrived. We had a very good time and used the opportunity to ask about the
home-made dishes we tasted, and which tasted good.

DAY 16:
=======	Got up early again, so it was not too hot to walk to the station. The
train was only an hour late. We had a talk with an MBA-student amid great
public interest: about 30 people eager to overhear our conversation. 
	There was no way we could get into the first class compartments. They
were either guarded so we could not even get in the train, or people did not
want to let us into their compartments. So we had to go into second class,
which was completely, and we mean completely, occupied. Every horizontal 
space was occupied, so we decided just to stand where it was possible (even
moving was difficult) and look for an opportunity to take a place. Several
people had gone up the platform and others were charged with occupying their
seats. Pretending not to understand anyone is a good strategy under such
circumstances. Thea found a tiny place to sit. A short while after the train
departed Hans was also given a place to sit. It was our experience in
general that people would kindly offer us a seat. They also expected us to
move over whenever new people entered the train. This could result in seven
people sitting on a bench designed for three.
	Long before actually arriving at Agra Cantonment Station, like with
every other arrival, people started pushing for the exit. We really had to 
push our way out of the train, since from the outside people were trying to 
get in as soon as the train stopped.
	The way to find a place in Agra is too just look a little helpless,
then someone comes up to you and offers to show you to a lodge. Of course 
he will get commission, but he'll still know a good place. At least that's 
our Agra experience. First we checked at the Tourist Rest House, which was 
what we first picked. It was full, and did not seem all that interesting 
anyway. We were brought to Deepak Lodge, on Ajmer Road. A small place with
rooms of different qualities. We paid Rs 85 a night. Stepping out of our room
we stood in the garden, where we could also sit. Drinks and many different
meals could be served. It's a family place, but the whole family likes talking 
too much. It was absolutely impossible to even sit for five minutes or so
without someone coming up at us, wanting to talk. At this place the mosquito 
net has been very useful.
	We met some other Dutch travellers who had sold their house and quit
their jobs. They wanted to make a tour of half a year. We were very surprised
to hear they had never been in an underdeveloped country before.
	Next is some interesting information for anyone wanting to go from 
Agra to Varanasi (and quite a lot of people do this). This trip is difficult 
to arrange as a tourist, and it's a major source of income for the Agra
`tourist agencies' just in front of the Cantonment Station. We have spoken to
people who paid ridiculous amounts (Rs 900 each!!) for travelling to Varanasi 
first class, only to discover that they had to share a compartment (for four 
or six? - they did not mention) with ten other persons. 
	The story is this: it is not possible to make reservations for the 
trip to Varanasi at Agra. The Kit does not mention this. Since all trains are
completely full (and we've experienced that!) what can you do to get a place 
on a train? That's where the agents come in. An agent will tell you that he 
can arrange a place for you. Obviously, you don't believe him. Then he tells
you he has a friend in Delhi who will reserve and occupy a place for you.
When the train arrives at Agra you take the place. Simple. Then he mentions 
his price and again you don't believe him. Too high. He shows you some copies 
of receipts of other travellers. They paid even more, but since he likes you...
	Well you get the idea. We did not want to pay that much but we ended 
up, after some time of arguing and repeating that it was too expensive for us,
with an agent who offered the most reasonable price - Rs 160 each. He filled 
in a nice form for us which would arrange everything. We got a copy and we
would see about it in four days. So much here - rest in four days. But let us
say here that it did not quite work out as expected - it would work out as
feared. It is really a pity that the Kit does not cover this problem; there is
a train at 11 pm but reservations are not possible on this one either. Moreover
it is the known tourist train, and risks of theft are said to be high on this
line. That was also one of the reasons we wanted to travel by day. We will 
post a query on this subject in rec.travel just to find out if anyone
discovered how train travel between Agra and Varanasi is best arranged.
	Feeling comfortable about the reservation we went to the Taj Mahal 
with an autorickshaw (Rs 20) - a cycle-rickshaw would take too long since the
sun was already very low. The Taj Mahal was without a doubt the most beautiful
experience of the four weeks. It must have been said a milion times, but it is
great! We wanted to see it once in the evening and once in the morning. Like at
many railway stations the ladies' queue was the quickest way to the tickets 
(Rs 4). The safety measures are very heavy: bodysearching and checking of bags,
x-ray doors. Video-cameras only allowed at the entrance gate, not near the
Taj Mahal itself. Around the Taj many heavily armed guards patrolled. The fear 
of Sikh attacks was still noticeable. The sunset over the Taj was a wonderful
experience. 
	We had dinner behind the Taj, just outside the East gate, at Relax
restaurant. We liked the place and the food so much we would return there two
more times. We had a vegetarian meal with kofta (cheese) (Rs 80). If you like
small shops and narrow winding streets, the area just to the south is the place
to be, although from one moment to the other you may find yourself in a
pitch-dark completely deserted alley. And when the electricity falls out - brr.
	Autorickshaw back to the lodge (Rs 20). On Mahatma Gandhi Road we
bought a film at a brandnew shop.

DAY 17:
=======	Up early: 6 am. Breakfast at the lodge (Rs 40). We walked to Idgah bus
station, just fifteen minutes down the road. There the bus (Rs 16) for 
Fatehpur Sikri left at 8. The ride took almost an hour in a virtually flat 
landscape - it almost felt like home to us. Fatehpur Sikri is a single hill 
rising up from the plains. On top is the city, which was inhabited only for 
several decades. The palaces and mosques are all built of red stone. Splendid!
	It is a true pleasure walking among the deserted buildings, most of
them still in very good condition. The only drawback of the place is that you
can hardly walk around without being bothered by men wanting to be your guide.
The trick almost all of them used was to tell they were no guides but students
and that you could give them whatever you liked after the tour. Of course if
you give them a certain amount they will claim it is really ridiculously 
little and they'll make a big fuss. The same thing happened to us earlier.
And if you do take a guide, make sure he speaks English properly.
	Most people do not walk all the way to the river but you should. On 
the bank is an old caravanserai, outside the Elephant Gate. The atmosphere 
is really oriental out there.
	After having spent several hours in the old city we went down again,
looking for a bank in the village at the foot of the hill. We found a bank 
but there they did not exchange cash dollars. We were advised to go to the
State Bank of India in Agra. Wrong advice, since back at Agra they turned 
out not to change dollars either. But the nearby Bank of Baroda did. And 
what a transaction! Again an example of bureaucracy. In the bank there was 
paper lying everywhere, but it was hot so the fans were switched on. And thus 
more than once we saw papers flying around. Of course the paper had to be
filled in in triple, we had to sign and countersign, and then the clerk went
away; when he came back he handed us a numbered coin as a proof that the
exchanged money was ours, we had to line up before a counter (not really clear
which) and when we discovered which clerk handled the transaction we could get
our money in return for the coin. Phew.
	After lunch at the lodge (Rs 40) with delicious banana pancakes we went
to the office of Indian Airlines by cycle-rickshaw (Rs 10). It is located in
Clarks Shiraz hotel, one of the most expensive hotels of Agra. We booked a
flight from Varanasi to Kathmandu for a couple of days later; we had to take
the plane a day before the day we would have liked to. Oh yes, the price:
$108 for the two of us. Very good, prompt service.
	It was the end of the afternoon so there was still time to do
something. We wanted to take a cycle-rickshaw outside Clarks Shiraz, but the
rickshaw drivers apparently all planned to wait outside the hotel until an
obviously terribly rich person would come out so they could pedal him to the
Taj Mahal and back for the price of a normal day's work. They did not want to
take us at first, but after some talking and explaining that we did not stay 
in the hotel, we found a driver (Rs 10). Entrance fort Rs 4, and take care of
getting the correct change here... tricky persons.
	It was extremely crowded, but the spot and the time were ideal for
taking some pictures of the Taj Mahal, situated around a bend in the river in
plain view. It was constructed there so the emperor could see it from his
palace. The fort itself is also quite impressive. It has a lot of hidden
qualities and taking a guide here seems a good idea.
	We decided to go to a restaurant which was a bit more touristic, but
the food and the atmosphere of Zorba the Buddha did not really appeal to us.
We paid Rs 160 for dinner. We walked back and longed for our bed, after this
day full of activity, more or less characterised by the hassles with guides,
sellers and drivers, as well as by the forts and palaces in red.
	
DAY 18:	
=======	The same early rise as yesterday. Got dressed quickly, gave laundry 
to the reception and off for the Taj Mahal in the dark (Rs 10). Arrived around
7 am. It was much less crowded than two days before. The sun had just risen a
little. Fantastic!! Taking pictures was not a problem. Marvellous compositions
possible, like a scene with the Taj Mahal seen from under a gate of one of the
flanking mosques. The scene is great for just strolling around on the cool
marble and sitting on a bench looking out over the river.
	We had breakfast at Relax restaurant, a delicious muesli with curd,
apple, banana, cornflakes and honey, and some French toast. A breakfast worthy
of the Taj Mahal (Rs 40). We went to a jewelry shop we had seen two days
before, and there we bought a pair of silver earrings (Rs 150) and ordered 
a broche to be made with a black stone in which a star can be seen when held 
in the sunlight (Rs 350). We paid half of it in advance, and the next day the
broche would be ready. We took a rickshaw to the fort - the driver was
horrible: he hardly advanced, sat the wrong way around on the saddle most of
the time, insisted to take us to shops where we only needed to look around so
as to let him earn some baksheesh, and kept on touching both of us to support
his arguments. When we finally arrived at the fort he did not want to take
us to the gate but stopped way before. We retaliated by paying him less than
agreed. We're not proud of it but how else can you make him see you did not
like his behaviour and lack of manners at all?
	We had a look at the red fort again, this time by daylight. We then
walked to the Jami Mashid mosque behind Agra Fort railway station. Not really
worth it, although the quarters around it are a spectacular bazaar scene.
Rickshaw to GPO, where we could drop off some postcards we still had to mail.
Then to the telegraph office to make a phonecal to tell our parents we were
still alive. This was not all that straightforward. Apparently the employee 
did not have much experience with abroad telecommunications, since he tried a
dozen times without any success. Then his colleague, proudly introduced as 
`the expert', managed to establish the connection in his first try...
Walked back, same lunch as day before, rested in the afternoon, dinner at 
Relax again. 

DAY 19:
======= A day of bad luck. We had to go to the area around the Taj Mahal 
again to get the broche. So we had muesli there like yesterday... Agra became
familiar to us and it was time to leave for Varanasi. The broche was ready 
but the maker had succeeded in making a terrible scratch on the stone. So 
after a lot of debating we could get our money back, provided we signed a form
stating that we did not buy the broche we had ordered; for the taxes the
salesman said. Back at the lodge we packed and went to the travel agent where
we booked our places for Varanasi - first class. Ah, and we did not forget to
pick up the laundry we gave to the reception a day before. The agent took us 
to the railway station where we should wait until he signalled us. After the
train arrived he did signal us, but with the news that there were no first
class places available. The swindler! After he checked with the train
conductor's notes, he found out he could give us two places in second class.
He told us the numbers: 49 and 51. He brought us to the places, chased the 
five people away who were sitting at places 49, 50 and 51, and told the other
passengers that these were our places. But we did not have any written proof 
of that, and we were correct in assuming that we were not entitled to sit 
there at all.
	But we still had our Indrail Passes. Each time we reserved a train
before that day, a train official had written in the pass which places were
reserved for us in which train. So we simply added this train and the correct
seat numbers to the other reservations in the passes. The train would leave 
at 12.40, and arrive at Moghulsarai near Varanasi at 1.30 am that night. So 
it was important to have a place to at least sit. And we had seen before how
full it could get. This train got even fuller and when it got dark and time to
lower the berths, indeed someone came to claim one of our places. We said we
had reservation and the man wanted to check that. We showed our passes and he
agreed that we had the reservations. But when someone else claimed the other
place and called for the conductor, he gave us only one of the two berths.
But the berth was wide enough to let both of us sleep on it. When all berths
were in use, there was not a single one on which only one person slept, and the
rest of the compartment was also completely full! Wow, what an experience!
	We arrived on time in Moghulsarai, but there was no connection for 
Varanasi until 7 am. There were retiring rooms at the station, but all were 
occupied. All else that was possible was the first class waiting room. which
was hot and full. But we were so tired we managed to sleep lying on three
separate chairs arranged in a row. And no comfortable chairs but the ones
you'll find in an average cafeteria. At around seven we took the train for
Varanasi. 

DAY 20:
=======	The train was full of pilgrims. Old men with white beards, dressed in
orange, and old women. They had been on that train for a long time, and they
were almost at the end of their pilgrimage: the holy river Ganges. When the
train crossed a bridge over the river they all prayed and were visibly
impressed at the sight of the goal of their journey. 
	At the railway station we were picked up by an old rickshaw driver 
who took us to Jogi Lodge (not Yogi Lodge) in a side alley of Harishchandra
Road, near Harishchandra Ghat, one of the places for ceremonial cremation.
This lodge had been advised by Deepak Lodge in Agra, but we certainly would 
not advise it to anyone else! It was the only place where we've seen mice and
cockroaches during these four weeks. Absolutely run-down. The `rooftop
restaurant' they advertise with has no view, and the `staff' is a bunch of
money-thirsty and unpleasant people. Since we only had to stay for one night 
we survived. The amount of Rs 70 was too much for this room.
	After a shower we took off for a look at the area, called Godaulia.
Down at the ghats (the stairs into the Ganges) boatman try hard to get you 
into their boats. The thing you should absolutely not miss in Varanasi is a
boat trip at sunrise. Paying more than about Rs 30 an hour is not reasonable.
The ghats are not only used for bathing in the morning and evening, but during
the rest of the day they are used for washing and drying. We walked along the
shore of the Ganges in the direction of the center and finally got there
through the labyrinth of narrow streets that marks the area at less than two
hundred metres from the river.
	Further east we found the golden temple, with the help of a little boy
who brought us straight into a silk shop, the only place where it is possible
to have a good look at the temple. Good location for a shop, nice try at
trapping tourists. There are many temples, but it is not always clear if it is
permitted to enter them. For whoever likes strolling around in this maze of
alleys with shops and sellers everywhere, Varanasi is the place to be. But the
image we recall from Varanasi is mainly that is is dirty. And awfully crowded.
We preferred the wide streets and rural aspect of Agra. So it was more or less
luck that we had not been able to reserve for the flight of two days later and
we were relieved we had to stay for only a day and a half.
	We tried a real masala dosa, a hard thin pancake filled with very tasty
and spicy ingredients (Rs 35). Time for a nap, since that night we had not had
much sleep. It was alreadu dark when we went to the Durga temple (with
aggressive monkeys) and the pretty white Tulsi Manas temple. In this modern
temple there is a show with moving puppets, and also a series of pictures from
the Ramayana. Very nice.
	One of the things to buy here, next to silk, are bangles. They are 
sold everywhere, in many different colors and sizes. But they are vulnerable
and should be well packed, not just stuffed in the backpack. Three of Thea's
bangles did not survive the return journey...
	We had dinner at El Chico (Rs 130). Of course full of westerners. 
The food was okay, nothing special. We took some local rum to ease the stomach 
(a recipe we remember from skiing in Austria once: if you have symptoms of 
diarrhoea, take some strong alcohol). When we got out of the restaurant, the 
streets were packed with people and rickshaws. Near the Ganges mosquitos were
everywhere. We rickshawed back (Rs 4) and had a look at the Harishchandra 
burning ghat. Someone explained to us that people came from over a hundred 
kilometers to get someone burned. Not everyone is burned; only the rich people 
since for a ceremonial burning it takes a lot of wood, and some special kinds 
of wood like sandalwood. The people with less money are burned in electric 
crematoria; their ashes are also spread over the Ganges. Others just have their
bodies dumped into the river, with some extra weight to make them sink. At the
burning ghats male family members (women are not allowed because of their
`weakness': they might start crying and get emotional) wait until it is their
family's turn, with the body wrapped up in cloths. We saw at least four
families waiting.
	
DAY 21:
=======	Up early for the boat trip at sunrise. At 5.30. Down to the river 
where still some fires were burning. We made a trip to the most southern ghat
and back. It is very impressive to witness from the water the sight of all the
men and women taking their ceremonial morning baths. It is unbelievable how
many people are attracted by this place. People come here each morning from
tens of kilometers away. They wash and pray. One with even more theatrical
ceremonies than the other. One is taking water from the river, then pours it
back slowly while saying a prayer. Someone else submerges himself a number of
times, counting each time. A glimpse of another culture.
The trip of about an hour cost Rs 35. We took some beautiful pictures here.
	We walked into the center, where we took breakfast at Aces restaurant;
a good pot of tea and kingsize banana pancakes. We took a rickshaw (Rs 7) to 
Bharat Mata temple. It is a strange kind of temple, since the only thing it
contains is a huge relief map of India. And a corner to sell postcards and 
all kinds of books about India and Nepal. 
	Then we took another rickshaw to go to Aurangzeb's mosque. The driver
could not find it, and even after asking directions we got lost in the maze of
alleys. Since we had to take a plane that afternoon we decided to stop our
search for the mosque and head back to the main roads, which were further away
than we thought. If you have time, these narrow streets are a real discovery.
Back to the hotel again (Rs 10), showered and packed. The `management' had
already invited a friend to take care of airport transport. There must have
been a substantial baksheesh in it for them. We paid Rs 100 for the
20-kilometer ride. It was not funny because of the dust and the strong wind. 
We both caught a cold. 
	At the airport there was nothing. A dirty and extremely expensive
restaurant; empty and primitive otherwise. During the afternoon more people
arrived; most of them in groups of organised tours. Many of them were Spanish
teenagers; they made an awful noise in the small and hot lounge, shouting,
singing and dancing. And then all of a sudden the checkin started. There were
three counters and it was not clear at all where one should go and in which
order. One counter was for paying airport taxes (Rs 150 each), one for 
getting exit visa and one for getting the boarding passes. And which was 
for what? A total mess. Only the guides of the organised tours knew what 
they were doing. Well finally everyone got a boarding pass and with some 
delay we could board the plane. But it did not take off. After a long time 
we heard that the airport lights were not working so we could not take off.
We were told they were trying to get it repaired again. When we saw a row of
blue lights outside we thought they had managed, but then came the message 
that we should disembark. We would get a room in a hotel in Varanasi.
	Then the mess became even larger. The exit visa had to be cancelled, 
we had to get the airport taxes back, and get a room in a hotel. The airport
officials had arranged rooms in several hotels, and they filled in forms (in
quadruple of course) for every group. Since the larger groups had guides that
used to give banknotes along with the passports each time they came at Varanasi
airport, they got helped first, since there were no lines and everyone tried 
to grab whatever was available... such situations bring out the worst in 
people. Since we were only looking for one room we were about the last to be
helped; they dealt with the larger blocks of rooms first. And all those group
leaders kept whining about people insisting on having a single room, while the
airport staff had explained ten times that there were only doubles... awful.
It was an emergency situation so how could they expect top service? After
everyone more or less successfully got himself on the list we had to wait for
buses to arrive. The bus drivers would get the lists for the hotel. They would,
but the list never showed up at hotel Clark's Varanasi, where we were taken.
Hey, did we get to a top end hotel after all! What a change from the lodges we
had been in! But since there was no list we had a hard time getting a room.
Another group, with German and Austrian tourists, had been staying at Clark's
for several days so the staff knew them and they immediately got a room. For us
it was more difficult; at first they insisted on a form from Indian Airlines
but after a kind word of the Austrian guide they gave us their last room - 
a single room. But that was our first chance since three weeks to take a hot
bath so we enjoyed it. And we hoped everything would go better the next day.
At least we would fly into Kathmandu at broad daylight; three weeks earlier 
and six weeks earlier planes had crashed while approaching Kathmandu without
much sight.




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