HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Brewing, other things besides beer???
Date: 14 Dec 92 10:03:20 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <Bz7F85.Dsr@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (Me!! Ted.) writes:
> 
> 
> 
> 	I really enjoy beer and a good brew.  But, I have a slight
> problem.  My digestive system doesn't break beer down well...I end
> up with deposits of uric acid (crystalized) in the strangest places.
> Well, I guess  you could say that I can't get rid of uric acid.
> So, I can't have more than one beer a week.
> 
> 	However, I can have other forms of alcohol.  My question is,
> (besides wine of course) is there other forms of alcohol that are
> legal to make, and is there a limit?
> 	I don't want to be a moonshiner...too much work.  Plus,
> illegal.  I want to make something for myself only.  I have thought
> about wine.  But, I am not sure about that at this point in time...
> maybe in a couple years.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -- 
>          Swallowing your pride rarely leads to indigestion.
>          A hard thing about business is minding your own!
> -trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu   &    trwagner@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu-
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------


	Pardon me for saying so, but uric acid is from nitrogen waste.  To
my knowledge there are no more nitrates or amines in beer than in any other
given food.  Uric acid crystal deposits are associated with improper
purine catabolism, as in gout.  Gout can be caused by lead poisoning, but
by beer?  I doubt it.  Get a second opinion from a physician who knows what
she/he is talking about.  If alcohol causes the symptoms, then all booze is
out.  I don't see any way in which beer may be singled out as the only
culprit.  
	As a disclaimer, I am not a doctor.  I only teach med school.

	Ed
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Aeration of wort?
Date: 11 Dec 92 20:44:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9245
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1992Dec11.150044.17232@nsisrv.gsfc.nasa.gov> john@ice.stx.com writes:
>
>I have heard alot of talk on this newsgroup lately about improper aeration 

Maybe, maybe too much talk...
(sorry, I couldn't resist -- if you don't get it, just...forget it!)
>of the wort being the cause of stuck fermentations.   Since I
>am about to begin my first batch, I would like to know if anyone has any 
>tips on aerating the cooling wort.  I will be using a 5 gal glass carbouy
>for fermentation.  

Don't aerate hot wort, it'll cause oxidation of the wort and your beer
won't taste as good.  Either use a wort chiller, or wait until the
wort has cooled to pitching temperature.

I try to get some air into the wort while I'm siphoning it into the
fermenter (a carboy).  I tried the "make the wort flow down the side
of the carboy in a fan-shaped stream method", but to make that work I
had to prop the hose in the neck of the carboy.  After having the hose
spring out and siphon wort all over my kitchen floor, I put the kibosh
on that method.  So...I have a racking tube that has a little ball on
the end, with holes around the top of the ball.  (This is to help keep
out carboy-bottom-gunk when racking).  The tube fits through a plastic
carboy cap.  I fit the cap on the carboy, and jack up the tube until
the ball is up near the top of the carboy.  I start the siphon, and I
have...four little streams of wort spouting out of the holes, and
falling down into the carboy.

I follow this with the "slosh method" just described today by another
poster.

>
>I have looked for aeration tips in the faq and in Papazian and found none.  

Maybe the FAQ-master ought to add it...?

>Papazian says to mix the wort by turning the carboy on its side and 
>rolling it.  Is this sufficient for aeration as well as mixing? 

I think you'd mostly just be spinning the liquid around, not really
intraining any air.  Tip the carboy up on edge and slosh!

Happy brewing!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Using bleach to sanitize
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:26:10 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.152530.9625@ac.dal.ca> ech@ac.dal.ca writes:

> Sorry, but I will have to argue the point.  There is a reason to rinse:
> chlorophenols.  After soaking a carboy in bleach, letting it air dry not 
> only takes a long time, but may leave chlorine behind.

Well, if you are a chemist or whatever, I can't personally argue.  I'll see 
if I can find the results of a study done by an acquaintance who is either a 
chemist or microbiologist.  Roughly speaking, he did a study with water 
having 100 ppm (I think) of chlorine in a carboy, and over half a dozen 
repeats of the experiment, that level was sufficient to sanitize as well as 
result in a carboy with very low levels of chlorine residue (drained of 
water and allowed to air dry 15 minutes, leaving <.X ppm detectable by some 
solution afterwards).

Anyway, once I read that and talked to the guy, I felt safe that using 50-
100 ppm of chlorine to sanitize would be a no-rinse situation.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu (Steve Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Barleywine
Date: 16 Dec 92 17:06:07 GMT
Organization: CSU, Fresno

I'd like to brew a barleywine and have a couple of questions..

First, how long can I expect to tie up a fermenter?  What are
typical primary vs. secondary times?  I see some recipes in 
CM2 that call for primary/secondary fermentation of several
months, while others only call for "normal" fermentation times.

Second, it occured to me that I've never tasted a barleywine.
How would one describe the taste?  Are they all that different
from lower gravity beers?

Third (three questions, actually), what are favorite recipes
of brewers out there?  I think I'd like to try Nick Thomas'
Barleywine recipe from CM2.  Anybody brewed this?  Any ideas
on creative ways to replace the 1-1/2 pounds of corn sugar
this recipe calls for?

--steve
-- 
Steve Mitchell / steve_mitchell@csufresno.edu / steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu
"STUFF: Anything that can be used for homebrewing."  "JUNK: Everything else
you thought could be used for homebrewing, but can't."
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Subject: Re: Kegs
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 16:32:45 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1gog45INN4e1@agate.berkeley.edu> jhh@sprite.berkeley.edu (John H. Hartman) writes:
>In article <1992Dec16.142052.3544@nic.csu.net> steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu (Steve Mitchell) writes:
>>
>>Okay, I give.  What's the net.wisdom on getting ones hands
>>on cheap soda kegs?  I've been talking all afternoon and 
>>still haven't found anybody who will sell me kegs.
>
>Try a scrap-metal yard. I picked up a 15.5 gallon AB keg from one
>for the price of the stainless (I think it worked out to $18).
>The keg was in good condition, with only a few dents. Even had a
>few ounces of well-aged Bud in it. 
>
I've picked up Cornelius Kegs at scrapyards for $5, they've also got the
standard beer kegs for about $15, though you can usually get them for the
deposit at beer distributors.  For the Cornelius (soda) kegs also try
used restaraunt equiptment dealers.

Jeff Copeland -- Atmospheric Science CSU -- copeland@homebrew.atmos.colostate.edu


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Adam Edwards)
Subject: Bitching about mail-order!!
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 21:01:13 GMT

Has anyone any experience with good mail order companies for home
brewing supplies?  I placed my first order with James Page Brewing
Co. in St. Paul, MN on Tuesday, Dec 8.  I was told over the phone that
my order would be shipped by Friday, and would arrive 3-4 business days
later via UPS.  Well, I called yesterday(Friday) and asked about my order.
They hadn't even filled it until this past Wednesday, and said it won't be
in Rochester until after Tuesday of next week.  Great, I'm going home on
Tuesday evening, along with my housemate.  So what happens, does the shipment
get sent back?  What a bum deal, I shain't be dealing with that company again.
Anyone have a dependable alternative?

Adam Edwards
awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu

-- 
		'Fast...
				...what to drive '

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: atkinson@vaxb.acs.unt.edu
Subject: Re: sweet ale
Organization: University of North Texas
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 19:04:17 GMT

>Can anyone provide me with a recipe for an Ale which has a very malty and
>a bit on the sweet side taste. I'm looking for something similar to
>Grant's Scottish Ale

Try the "Sun Has Left Us On Time Steam Beer" in Papazian's "New Complete Joy".
Although I've never had Grant's, your very brief description sounds like this
very good steam beer.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This Posting is hereby placed in the public domain, and may be
copied (manually or electronicly) freely from any location,
including commercial services which have made copies.
---------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions have evolved over a lifetime, and will, hopefully,
continue to change.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
-- 

----------------------------------------------------------
Samuel F. Atkinson               atkinson@vaxb.acs.unt.edu
Center for Remote Sensing
University of North Texas        phone: 817-565-2694
Denton, Texas  76203             fax:   817-565-4297
----------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Couple of quick questions...
From: steve@csufres.CSUFresno.EDU (Steve Mitchell)
Date: 15 Dec 92 06:43:40 PST
Organization: California State University, Fresno

In article <1992Dec14.193702.23442@mailer.cc.fsu.edu> pepke@scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke) writes:
>I would strongly suggest that you not pour hot wort into your fermenter, 
>for a number of reasons:
>
>1) Oxidation
>The more you slosh hot wort about, the more likely it is to oxidize.  This 
>causes it to taste bad.

Not true (in that, oxidation is not a bad thing).  Your yeast need
oxygen during the initial phases of fermentation.

It is after the beer is fermented that oxidizing should be avoided.
Specifically, oxidation should be avoided at bottling time.

This is the second time I've heard somebody get this backwards here
in r.c.brewing.  What's the confusion?

--steve

p.s. Of course, if *I* have it backwards, then I'm the one with
malt on my face. :)

--
Steve Mitchell / steve_mitchell@csufresno.edu / steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu
"STUFF: Anything that can be used for homebrewing."  "JUNK: Everything else
you thought could be used for homebrewing, but can't."
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Using bleach to sanitize
Date: 18 Dec 92 16:06:52 -0400
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <jdecarlo.504.724695970@mitre.org>, jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes:
> In article <1992Dec16.152530.9625@ac.dal.ca> ech@ac.dal.ca writes:
> 
>> Sorry, but I will have to argue the point.  There is a reason to rinse:
>> chlorophenols.  After soaking a carboy in bleach, letting it air dry not 
>> only takes a long time, but may leave chlorine behind.
> 
> Well, if you are a chemist or whatever, I can't personally argue.  I'll see 
> if I can find the results of a study done by an acquaintance who is either a 
> chemist or microbiologist.  Roughly speaking, he did a study with water 
> having 100 ppm (I think) of chlorine in a carboy, and over half a dozen 
> repeats of the experiment, that level was sufficient to sanitize as well as 
> result in a carboy with very low levels of chlorine residue (drained of 
> water and allowed to air dry 15 minutes, leaving <.X ppm detectable by some 
> solution afterwards).
> 
> Anyway, once I read that and talked to the guy, I felt safe that using 50-
> 100 ppm of chlorine to sanitize would be a no-rinse situation.
> 
> John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
> Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org



	The problem is, according to Suzanne Price in the recent special
issue of Zymurgy, chlorophenols are detectable at levels of 2-5 ppb, 
ie, .002 ppm.  You want to get as much of the chlorine out as possible.
Of course, if you don't encounter any problems with the drip-dry technique
then go for it.  Personally, I prefer rinsing.


	Ed
From: jsawyer@crash.cts.com (John Sawyer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Gleaming immersion chiller
Date: 18 Dec 92 08:52:33 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services (crash, ctsnet), El Cajon, CA


	>> Neon Sign company to make glass chiller...

	Unfortunately, this would have a few problems:  Very expensive,
Very fragile, and hard-to-do.
	I've made Neon signs and it takes quite a bit of work to make a 
simple loop that's 10 inches in diameter.  Also, you're working with pieces of
glass that are 4 feet long, 12mm in diameter.  The Lead-Glass that is commonly
used is pretty forgiving, but if you put it in a bucket of ice water, and run
hot wort through it, it would have a tendancy to break, especially at the 
welds.  The right-angle bends that bring the tubes up to the hoses are
pretty fragile since that part of the glass is stretched thin when it is bent.
 
	Pyrex would be better, but it takes a real artist to work with it.  
Pyrex, as I understand, must be kept hot while you're working with it, and
then must be annealed in an oven.  Then it is cooled over an 8 - 12 hour
period.  (Yes a LOT of work---Surplus Stainless hoses would work better.)
 
	I have some Stainless steel hose, unfortunately it is braided.  
The biggest drawback, though, is the small diameter.  (these were designed
to circulate Liquid Helium in a Nuclear reactor at around 2000 psi. 
--no, they were NEVER used... :-)  )
	
	Hey!!--Glow-in-the-dark BEER!  Great for emergency lighting, 
Blackouts, and hot summer days!!!
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: questions about mead from a beginner
Date: 11 Dec 92 20:07:27 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9243
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

>For three days after I pitched the yeast, there was very little
>activity - not no activity, but very little.  I decided to take a
>gravity measurement to see if anything was going on.  In the process
>of hauling the carboy into the kitchen, it got shaken up quite a bit -
>when this happened, the airlock started bubbling like mad.  Thus I
>discovered that if I shake the carboy up a bit, I get a sudden burst
>of gas coming out the airlock.
>
>Why does shaking it up have such an effect?  I don't think it's
>because I'm aerating the mead, because there's precious little O2 in
>the carboy - it should all be CO2.  Is this behaviour normal?  Is it
>bad?  Is it OK to shake the carboy to speed things up?

I don't know if you are really "speeding things up".  There will be
gases dissolved in the stuff, and when you shake up the carboy some of
that gas will evolve, just like when you shake a soda can.  But the
wonderful chemical reactions that we are interested in...those I don't
think you are speeding up.  How long do these "sudden bursts" last?

Unless...if the yeast has already settled out, then "rousing" 
(resuspending) the yeast can be one part of getting things going again,
but usually only if you are giving the yeast some reason to do its
thing, since obviously it thought it had some reason not to in the
first place.  Did you use yeast nutrient?  If so, what kind?  From
what I understand, yeast nutrients are a virtual necessity for mead
and beers with a lot of honey.  What kind of yeast did you use?  Did
you use a yeast starter?  Did you aerate the "wort"?
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bitching about mail-order!!
Date: 20 Dec 92 00:59:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9269
Distribution: na
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1992Dec19.210113.2997@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> awds_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Adam Edwards) writes:
>Has anyone any experience with good mail order companies for home
>...
>What a bum deal, I shain't be dealing with that company again.
>Anyone have a dependable alternative?

Try St. Patrick's of Texas.  I've really been impressed by the way
they do business.  They seem to fill orders instantly.  They care about
your beer.  Their address is:

 	St. Patrick's of Texas Brewers Supply
 	12922 Station Drive
 	Austin, Texas 78727

You can place an order by phone and request their catalog
too, at:

 	(512) 832 - 9045

They take VISA, etc.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: drew@scorpio.ic.cmc.ca (pds)
Subject: Newcastle Brown
Followup-To: drew@scorpio.ic.cmc.ca
Reply-To: drew@scorpio.ic.cmc.ca
Organization: CMC
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 21:43:05 GMT

I've tried a number of recipes (mainly extract) which claim
to taste like Newcastle Brown Ale.  Although all of them have
turned out to be good brown ales, none of them have the "nutty"
characteristic.  Does anyone have any ideas on what ingredient or
combination of ingredients produces the nutty flavor?

thanks,
pds



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: canderso@nyx.cs.du.edu (Chuck Anderson)
Subject: How soon should I sample my first batch of stout?
Organization: Center for Life Fulfillment
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 92 02:13:27 GMT

I just bottled my first batch of stout one week ago tonight.  I
used the "Toad Spit Stout" recipe from Charlies's book.  I want
to try one tonight.  Does stout take a longer or shorter time to
"mellow out?"  Most other recipes I've done are pretty green for
a few weeks and really start to mellow and have good carbonation
after 6 weeks (minimum).

Should I try one tonight?   (rhetorical question)

Pshhht! - sounded good - already some pressure in there.

Pretty fine bubbles, too - and I used corn sugar to prime.

Already a fair amount of carbonation bite, mmmmmmmmm.

This stuff doesn't taste very "green" at all.

Alright - those grains taste great!  Wow, Stout! (that's what I ought to 
name it.)

There's still a thin ring of fine bubbles around the inside of the
glass ( half way through .5L).  I'm gonna make more stout, SOON.

Oh, sorry.  I guess I answered my own question.  I guess I just
wanted to share (my sampling experience, not the beer :-).

I think I'll have another.......  I hope there's still some left in 6 weeks.

God, I love this part of brewing!

--
  *************************************************************************
     Chuck Anderson                uucp    :         uunet!nyx!canderso
     Boulder, Co. (303) 494-6278   internet:         canderso@nyx.cs.du.edu
  *************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (The Baker)
Subject: mashing
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: all
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 22:40:26 GMT

 I was wondering after reading Line's book why I don't hear of infusion
mashing very much.  It looks like the pefect mash-style for the 
relax-don't worry.... athmosphere, and the results he gives appear to be
in line with the more complex systems.  Just a passing idea...

******************************************************************************* All animals are strictly dry, they sinless live and swiftly die.
But sinful, Ginful, beer soaked man survives three score years and ten
                                                -origin unknown-
*******************************************************************************
Edwin Sharp
esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Couple of quick questions...
Date: 16 Dec 92 14:41:43 GMT
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <1992Dec16.053939.12393@moliere.uucp> pmk@moliere.uucp (Peter Michael Klausler) writes:
 In article <1992Dec15.064340.3528@nic.csu.net> steve@csufres.CSUFresno.EDU (Steve Mitchell) writes:
 >Not true (in that, oxidation is not a bad thing).  Your yeast need
 >oxygen during the initial phases of fermentation.
 >
 >It is after the beer is fermented that oxidizing should be avoided.
 >Specifically, oxidation should be avoided at bottling time.
 
>It is important to distinguish hot wort aeration from chilled wort aeration.

At the risk of being overly hung up on terminology, I think the
important distinction to recognize is the distinction between
"oxidizing" and "oxygenating" ("aerating").  They are fundamentally
different things.  The former is a chemical reaction.  The latter is a
physical process.  This is the distinction that Mr. Mitchell failed to
make in his posting.

>Yes, the O2 is essential to the aerobic phase of fermentation - but it need
>not be introduced prior to chilling.

Well, it should *definitely not* be introduced prior to chilling, as
this will oxidize the wort!

Kind regards,
Mark
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: atl@suzuki.kpc.com (Drew Lynch)
Subject: Re: DME
Organization: Kubota Pacific Computer
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 21:59:02 GMT

|> >	Of course, this is yet another reason to go all-grain!  With regard to
|> >that, does anyone out there get 5-7 gal to boil on an electric stove?  I
|> >want to know before I take the final plunge and buy a large kettle.  I live
|> >in a high-rise, so getting a gas stove is impossible.
|> >
|> >Dave
|> >
|> I use an electric stove and it takes some time just to boil 1.5 gal., I
|> don't think that you could get 5 gal to boil. My recommendation is that
|> you get a camp stove (a.k.a. Coleman). In my younger days I used to 
|> melt lead on a coleman stove to cast bullets, you can't do that with
|> an electric OR gas stove and you can usually pick up a used one for
|> $10 to $15US. Be forewarned, when you crank up the heat that much
|> the stove will need to have the generator (the tube that goes from
|> the gas tank to the burner) replaced more frequently, but this only
|> costs $3 to $8US for the part and can be done in about 15 min.
|> 

  I would reccomend against using a Coleman camp stove with a large
pot on it. I tryed mine out with my old 5 gallon pot. The large pot
bottom prevented the heat from escaping the stove, and everythig
heated way up, including the attached fuel bottle.  I turned it off
before even reaching a boil.  I went out and bought a King Kooker for
$77 and another $25 for a propane bottle. This brings eight gallons of
wort to a boil quite quickly.  It's a bit expensive, but worth it.

-- 
+------------------------------+ Andrew Lynch, atl@kpc.com
| Congratulations, Bill and Al | Kubota Pacific Computer Inc. Santa Clara, Ca.
| Now, don't screw it up!      | (408)748-6345
+------------------------------+ Disclaimer: This is me, not them.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing