HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rep@thor.genrad.com (Pete Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: One Hoss Shay
Date: 17 Nov 1992 19:49:14 -0500
Organization: GenRad, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.genrad.com

In article <3125@contex.contex.com> frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) writes:
 >In article <2163.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
 >>
 >>-> I am seriously thinking about buying an older Spitfire. Now, after
 >>-> all the laughter has subsided, I have a few questions.
 >>
 >>...
 >>got it, and it was like Frost's One-Hoss Shay - everything was falling
 >>apart at once.
 >
 >I think that it was not Frost ( Robert Frost ) that wrote One-Hoss
 >Shay.  I think it pre-dated him.  As odd as it may seem I have seen 
 >this poem cited in various texts as expressing a theory of integrated,
 >balanced design.  Anybody got the real reference?  Yeah, I have it at
 >home someplace...
 >
It was "The Deacon's Masterpiece" subtitled "The Wonderful One Hoss Shay"
and the author was a rather well known lawyer named Ollie Holmes (Oliver
Wendell Holmes --- U. S. Supreme Court Chief Justice, etc.)

The story was about a deacon who observed that a shay (carriage) would
always break down because some part failed; it would never wear out.

He build a carriage whose parts were of exactly matched strengths.  It ran
exactly 100 years to the day, then spontaneously disintegrated into a pile
of rubble!

	pete peterson
	rep@genrad.com
	(508)369-4400 x2478; Home: (508)256-5829 (Chelmsford, MA)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Subject: Re: Different synthetic oil Brands!!!
Organization: clearer than blir
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 06:19:10 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.193320.6236@dsd.es.com> sbender@navajo.dsd.es.com (Steve Bender) writes:
>|> What's the difference between commercial type synthetic oils 
>|> like Mobil 1, Castrol syntech, etc. and Amsoil?  

never tried amsoil, but mobil-1 is not available in 5W-50 in the US.
they have such a grade in europe, though.. strange.  anyway, i'm on
my first sumpful of castrol syntec now and i'm pretty happy with its
low friction with a cold engine.

>it (long ago) told me that Amsoil was not petroleum-based, but 
>produced from soya-beans or cottonseed or some such.  I do not know 
>if this is correct, but if it is, may explain the incompatability.
>As far as I'm aware, all other synthetics are "manufactured" using
>light petroleum distillates.

hmm, if amsoil is indeed made from cottonseed it wouldn't be strictly
speaking synthetic, would it?  alcohol is not called synthetic fuel.

>BTW, using cottonseed oils is not exactly a new idea.  My father
>recalls during WWII that the oil he used in military equipment
>was derived from cottonseed.
 
well, here's a good one.  guess what did castrol make its oil from when
it first appeared?  that's right.  castor oil.  and that's where it got
its name.

eliot

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jong@seanews.akita.com (Jon Gross)
Subject: Z-Car List
Organization: SEANEWS - Seattle Public Access News + Mail
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 19:08:06 GMT

Could you tell me how to subscribe to the Z-Car List?  Thanks.
.......jdg
jong@remote.halcyon.com

--
[] SEANEWS [] Seattle Public Access Usenet News + Mail [] +1 206 747 NEWS []
jong@seanews.akita.com
From: pnelson@cobra.Tymnet.COM (Phil Nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Winter Oil Change
Summary: Use thinner oil
Date: 16 Nov 92 22:59:23 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: BT North America (Tymnet)

In article <DENNIS.92Nov13135359@mr2.ece.cmu.edu> dennis@mr2.ece.cmu.edu (Dennis J. Ciplickas) writes:
>
>I've just been told by my dealership that I should change the oil in
>my '75 MB 240D to 15W-40 for the winter time.  I currently run 20W-50.
>Despite all of the discussion about oil on this group, I don't recall
>anyone ever saying they periodically changed the weight of the oil in
>their car (e.g., every winter).  Is there any problem doing this?

Changing to thinner oil in winter is recommended anywhere it gets cold,
unless you run thinner oil year round. I never heard of a problem with it,
except excessive oil consumption on older engines. Personally, I would
rather have excessive oil consumption, than excessive engine wear during
cold starts from thicker oil.

>Thanks for any help,
>Dennis

Yer welcome!



Phil Nelson . pnelson@tymix.tymnet.com . San Jose, CA, USA . 408-922-7508

	Poverty and disgrace come to him who ignores instruction,
           but he who heeds reproof is honored.            Proverbs 13:18
From: wilhelal@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Tony Wilhelm)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Steering boxes
Date: 24 Nov 92 05:18:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center

I have an 89 Chevy S-10 pickup with 4.3L, Automatic w/overdrive, PS, PB , A/C 
I would like to change the steering box to one with a closer ratio. I have 
lowered the truck 4 inches installed anti-sway bars, hi-performance shocks
and 265/50-15 tires all around. The truck handles great but it takes forever 
to turn the wheels (no I'm not talking about play in the front suspension or
steering linkage)

Our 85 corvette has a rack and pinion with 2 complete turns from lock to lock
my truck is like 4 turns lock to lock, kinda slow reaction time.

		mail all replies to  wilhelal@sage.cc.purdue.cc.edu

					Thanks A Lot
						Tony Wilhelm
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Subject: Re: clarification on antilock brakes
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 16:16:18 GMT


In article <Nov17.233727.21565@engr.washington.edu>, eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes...

> [An excllent article on brakings deleted]

Can you explain the dual triangular concept?  How do they have redundant ckts at
the front?  Wouldn't that need two distinct calipers for the front wheels,
actuated by two different circuits.  I can see if they use dual pistons, one on
each side of the rotor, then it is possible, although I think most cars
have free floating desing with a sliding pin and single piston.

- Vikas
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: adamstr@cc.uvcc.edu
Subject: RFI - Ford 1992 full size van
Organization: Utah Valley Community College
Date: 16 Nov 92 15:16:47 -0700

I'm interested in receiving info from anyone out there who owns or has had
experience with Ford's 1992 full size van (either 8 or 12 passenger seating).
I'm interested in all comments, pro's, con's, etc.  Thanks!  

Please e-mail to   adamstr@cc.uvcc.edu

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Subject: Re: Triumph Spitfire idle problem
Reply-To: zrol01@trc.amoco.com
Organization: Amoco Production Company, Tulsa Research
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 18:35:04 GMT

I recently did a carb conversion on a '77 Spitfire 1500.  
Installed was a Weber downdraft kit.  That is, carb and 
manifold combo.  The little bugger runs like I've never 
seen a Spitfire run before.  The kit was from Victoria
in Kansas and cost about $420. It wonderful.  Dare I say 
it?  Yea, I will. It idles like a good ole' Chevy 327...

The problem on the SU's sounds like a vacuum leak at the 
inlet manifold gasket or somewhere allied to that system.  
Good luck.

Rick
------------------------------------------------------------
     Richard O. Lindsay        /     __  __      __  __
  Senior Research Scientist   /   / /_/ /_  / / /_/ /_/
  Amoco Production Research  /   / / / /_/ /_/ / / / \
                            / /_/
                           /

Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance 
to persons living or dead is just luck. May cause drowsiness. 
Alcohol may intensify this effect. Pay no attention to the 
man behind the curtain. Ricky!!!
------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: copas@skink.cis.ohio-state.edu (kenneth gerald jr copas)
Subject: Oil Pressure 86 Pont. Firebird
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept. of Computer and Info. Science
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:55:53 GMT



	I recently purchased a 1986 Pontiac Firebird with a V6 2.8l
engine.  The car was leaking oil from the oil pressure switch, but the 
oil pressure gauge was still reading above 40.  I replaced the oil pressure
switch and stopped the leak, but now the oil pressure gauge reads only
around 35 and sometimes it jumps all the way up to 80 (pegged) for only
a fraction of a second and then back to 35.

	I would appreciate anyones insight on this particular problem.

					Thanks,

						Ken C.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Ken Wilkens <wilkens%nmr@venus.ycc.yale.edu>
Subject: Re: Window tinting
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 12:24:02 GMT

Well here in CT tinting driver/passanger windows is illegal, not so much
for visability but so the police can see inside the car if it is pulled
over. It is not well enforced but if it does happen, you could end up
going to a testing station where they have a meter to measure the amout
of tinting in the window.

Ken
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Opinions - lowering backpressure on fuel injected engine
Keywords: fi fuel injection backpressure exhaust
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:33:20 GMT

In article <1992Nov22.185342.29144@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:
>BULLSHIT,BULLSHIT!
>
>You can completely replace the stock exhaust system on a stock ZR-1 to
>receive up to 40 more horsepower.  Its not the backpressure that messes
>up things, its the emmisions sensors.
>If you don't believe this about the ZR-1, read up on Popular Mechanics.
>
>
>sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu

Yes, especially read the advertisments in back for fuel ionizers,
water injector-matics, all GUARANTEED to IMPROVE your car's POWER, use
LESS GAS, run SMOOTHER, last FOREVER.  Order NOW!  Improves your sex
life!

<I don't count PM for much in the technical world either>.

-andy




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Drawbacks of antilock brakes
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Motorola SPS
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 22:04:15 GMT

I recently read an account of a popular 4WD magazine taking a
Grand Cherokee (Jeep's newest SUV) over the Rubicon trail in
California.  They indicated that on some 45 degree downhill
portions of the trail, the vehicle simply **would not stop**.
They said it was kind of scary for them and onlookers helping
guide them down the trail.  Cases like this highlight the need 
to be able to override the ABS system.

Jim Chott                            85 Toyota 4WD pickup
rzaa80@email.sps.mot.com             72 Lemans Sport Convertible
Tempe, Arizona
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: edc@ENG.Vitalink.COM (Eric D. Christensen)
Subject: I failed the smog check - need help!
Keywords: CA Emissions suck!!!!
Organization: Vitalink Communications, Fremont, California
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 00:47:21 GMT

Ok, I'm in over my head here and I need help!!!! The old 85 Isuzu
Impulse came up for it's smog test this year. Unlike prior smog tests,
however, this time it failed with flying colors. Knowing nothing about
this emission control crud, I was sorely tempted to pay the local
garage to fix it, but I just couldn't bring myself to let some
stranger touch my beloved daily driver's engine. 

The problem is that I know next to nothing about these silly smog
control devices. We don't use 'em on race cars, so I've never had to
deal with them. I need some advice from someone who knows a little
about these things.

For starters, my EGR ports are clogged up. What's the best/easiest way
to clean these out? I replaced the EGR valve and cleaned out what I
could reach through the EGR valve holes, but evidently the ports are
cloged deeper in the chamber than I can reach. Would carb spray clear
these out?

Next, the car failed the tailpipe emissions test. This is really where
I'm lost. Test results were:
			
		
					Maximum		Amount
			Measured	Allowable	Over Limit
			--------	---------	----------
Cruise: (2500RPM)

    Hydrocarbons (ppm) 	91		220
    Carbon Monoxide %   1.59		1.20		0.39

Idle: (1000 RPM)	

    Hydrocarbons (ppm) 	125		100		25
    Carbon Monoxide %   2.17		1.00		1.17 (OUCH!)

Where should I start to get these emissions down. I'm particuarly
concerned about the Ilde readings, since they are the farthest off.
I'm assuming that if I can get the idle reading for Carbon Monoxide 
in range, the cruise readings should drop as well. 

The engine is a 2 liter 4 cylinder, with computer controlled fuel
injection (no, I haven't messed with the chip!) so I can't play with
the mixture much. 

Has anyone tried these "smog check" fuel additiives that are supposed to
reduce emissions. Do they work?

Any help would be appreciated!!!!

-- 
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   Eric D. Christensen - System Administrator - Vitalink Communications    |
|        Email: edc@ENG.Vitalink.COM           Phone: (510)440-2209         |
|                 SCCA San Francisco Region - Formula 440 #8                |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|     Racing is like sex: You spend far too much time and money on the      |
|    preliminaries, when you finally get to do it it doesn't last long      |
| enough, and once it's over you want to do it again, but you have to wait. |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: dtn@po.CWRU.Edu (Donald T. Noda)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: remanufactured engines
Date: 23 Nov 1992 16:30:30 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


	Any opinions on ATK (or other) remanufactured engines?
It is claimed that these are better than rebuilds because they 
contain more new parts and more precise machining.  They cost
more though.  The ATK's have a 3 year or 36,000 mile warranty.
Are they going to restore orginial performance to the car?  I
know from other people's experience that a rebuild won't.

	Don


Proud owner of a 1981 Buick Regal  ==>231  3.8L
-- 
           __    _______       _        |
      ----/  \  /__  __/  /\  / /------ |216-754-1981
    -----/ /\ \   / /    / /\/ /-----   |dtn@cwns4.ins.cwru.edu
 ------/_____/  /_/    /_/  \/----      |   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof)
Subject: Re: Opinions - lowering backpressure on fuel injected engine
Organization: Department of Redundancy Dept., Austin
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 18:34:50 GMT
Keywords: fi fuel injection backpressure exhaust

In article <1992Nov20.021658.19592@atlastele.com> scotte@atlastele.com (Scott Elam) writes:
>
>I have heard conflicting opinions about lowering the backpressure
>on fuel injected engines.  One person told me that it would cause
>the FI to run really lean and eventually burn the valves.  Another
>person said that was an old wives tale.  He told me that if the
>engine was tuned-up after the system was installed everything would be
>fine (I tend to believe the second guy).
>
>I want to upgrade my exhaust system in stages on my '87 4cyl
>Toyota 4x4 PU, starting with the muffler and a larger diameter
>tailpipe.  Eventually I'll replace the header and cat-converter.
>
>Anybody have any thoughts on this?  I'd appreciate hearing them.
>
>Thanks
>--
>Scott Elam                  
>scotte@atlastele.com        
>-- 
>"Reality is just                                   Scott Elam                  
>your imagination."                                 scotte@atlastele.com        
>                                                   2904 SE Washington          
>       -me?                                        Portland, OR 97214         

This type of change can be very effective.  The fuel injecition will
compensate for most of the changes.  Rich or lean conditions will be
resolved by the fuel system.  A "tune up" will not change the
injection system, or how it deals with the exhaust back pressure.

The main problem with this type of modification is the EGR system.  If
the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve is a backpressure type, 
you will increase or decrease EGR flow as compared to stock.

If EGR flow is increased, the engine will lose power at part throttle and
may misfire slightly.  If flow is reduced, spark knock (ping) is the
likely result.

EGR valves come in several types.  If it is a positive backpressure, or
negative backpressure type, you are likely to have problems.
Non-backpressure designs like the first vacuum ones, electric solenoid,
and position sensing EGR valves are less likely to cause problems.  There
is no guarantee even these designs will not be troublesome.  

In all cases where the EGR valve is under computer control, the entire 
engine is profiled as an air pump during the design phase.  Changes to any 
part of the characteristics of that air pump _will_ change the actions 
needed by the car computer to correctly run the engine.

Except as noted on the backpressure EGR designs, the fuel injection 
computer can usually adjust for the change.

-- 
Rick Kirchhof   Austin, Texas                   | Experience is what you
Domain: rick@posms.cactus.org                   | get when you don't
Bang path: ...!cs.utexas.edu!peyote!posms!rick  | get what you want.            
===========================================================================
From: shum@cs.Buffalo.EDU (jason shum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oil Change
Date: 19 Nov 92 15:31:42 GMT
Organization: State University of New York at Buffalo/Comp Sci
Originator: shum@jarvis.cs.buffalo.edu



How much oil is too much.  The specs suggest that I should put in

4.1 quarts of oil in, with filter change.  I did so now it seems

like the oil is past the F mark in the dipstick by a centimeter.

Do I need to drain some out?  Would it make a difference?

Suggestions?

Thanx Alot!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Over Rich Fuel Problem  -Need Suggestions!!
From: bp011074@vax1.mankato.msus.edu
Date: 20 Nov 92 00:36:00 -0600
Organization: Mankato State University

I don't know why but for soe reason I have one problem after another.
First of all my car is a 1985 Plymouth Caravelle.  It has a 2.2 liter Fuel
Injected engine with throttle body.  My first problem was solved when I found
out that my up and down idle was related to a bad headgasket.  What I was
hoping to fix is the black soot problem that went alone with it.
Its such an odd problem.  I took it down to the repair shop and had it test
driven and a computer check.  Sensors were fine and no computer codes existed.
The next day I'm driving up a rather steep hill, but nothing any other car
couldn't handle, and my car starts to slow down and I noticed a sooty cloud
coming out of the exhaust pipe.  Along with that the car was severly boaging
down spiting and you could feel the slight loss in powerout everytime it boaged
  It's like its trying to     
get going and there is too much fuel in the way which floods it so it decides
to shoot out black smoke and ihen it will eventually work its way back up to
normal speed and power as the terrain gets easier. I think this is also
related.  Whenever I decide to leave a parking lot or my garage, for some
reason just after switching into gear it decides im not going fast enough so
lets move him along a bit faster and the car will accelerate on its own (not
so much that I can't handle it but enough that i need to brake slightly)
I realize that all cars have some movement but this is excessive.
To add to the list it also, however its rare, will "diesel" ( I believe that is
the word for slightly running just after shutting off the car)  If ANYONE Knows
of how to solve this PLEASE LET ME KNOW  ......ANY suggestions ARE WELCOME

Added Information ((70,000 miles)))

(could it be low voltage...Bad throttle sensor that has worn down....something
to do with the air filter.....Timing belt.....timing......?????????

I need help......

Thanks           -Bryan-
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Caravan wheel bearings rusty & dirty
Date: 19 Nov 92 21:56:21 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

I wrote:
|> I just removed the rear brake drums on the '92 Dodge Grand Caravan that I 
|> bought used (with 26K miles, it was a rental).  This is 2-wheel (front) drive
|> without anti-lock brakes.
|> 
|> In one I find a bit of surface rust on the spindle between the inner and outer
|> bearing races; the bearing areas (as best I can see without really cleaning
|> anything) all look fine.
|> 
|> In the other, the grease is all crudded up with dirt and things like the
|> bearing cage and inside of the dust cap are rusted.  Foo.

I went and talked with the mechanic at the local mom & pop Chrysler dealership
(NOT where I bought this thing).  He grimmaced and shook his head, and said
he sees a lot of this, and that he figures it's a 'factory problem'.  He said
to pull it all apart, clean everything real well, put in new seals, and when
putting the cap back on the hub, put a little bead of automotive silicone
sealant around the inside of the cap.  He said that on cars that had received
this treatment from him, subsequent checkups showed much less of a problem.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"I can understand Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, but I can't understand mutually
recursive inline functions."  --anon.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: thompson@cactus.org (Charles Thompson)
Subject: Whats a totalled '87 Honda LXi worth?
Keywords: totalled cars
Organization: Capital Area Central Texas UNIX Society, Austin, Tx
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 03:54:29 GMT


My wife totalled her '87 Honda Accord LXi last
week (week of Friday 13th).  It got crunched
in the front but still rolls ok.  It has new
tires, fuel injection etc.  It also has high mileage ..130K.

The insurance company will no doubt try to chisel us
down on replacement value due to the 130K mileage. 

If you've ever bought Honda parts you know how EXPENSIVE
they are.  I figure the alloy wheels, new tires, and fuel
injection computer (not to mention the transmision) are
worth about $1000. (Have you ever priced a fuel injection
computer???....check your pacemaker before doing so).

Does anybody know how the salvage yards price 'totalled' cars?

There are a LOT of good parts on the car.  Seems to me like
the insurance company can get $1000 for the car or something
close.

thanks for any tips,

-c.t.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech