HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs

	I am glad to see that some people have gotten the difference
between a dog "running" and "loping" (or whatever you call it).  I
remember bringing this topic before and getting all kinds of discussions
that dogs can RUN for great distances.  A dog can not RUN great
distances because it is too much energy for a quadraped.  They can lope
and pull for great distances.

	As discussed before, some of the greatest athletes for long
distance are horses, dogs and humans.  So it is difficult to
compare the three.  

	I would like to say once again, keep those dogs on leashes.
This is the truth.  Last month, a co-worker was attacked by a German Shephard
while he was running in the hills.  The irony is that a Ranger had told
the owner of the dogs (a German Shephard and a Doberman) on leads.  The
owner did not comply.  My friend was bitten twice by the dog.  He was on
the ground when the owner say him.  So the owner took his dogs and left
without checking.  There was a man hunt for the owner for three days.
They finally caught the owner.  My friend was going to have to get
rabies shots.  This owner is clearly in the wrong.  

	I have had so many instances of being interrupted of my training 
because of some slow jogger with there dog off lead on the track.  Track 
training is for pace work and intense workouts, not for slow joggers wearing 
out the precious surface.  

	I keep my dogs on lead and I run with them as well as walk them.
They are in fine shape and at times I bring them into prime shape for
certain races (carefully peaking them).  My dogs are Whippets that I do
straight racing with.  I do not have any problems keeping them in shape
while they are on lead.

	Kirk
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: mjones@fenway.aix.kingston.ibm.com (Mike Jones)
Subject: Re: Humane societies out there?
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 20:21:24 GMT
Organization: IBM Corp. Kingston NY

In article <1992Aug25.212107.28407@midway.uchicago.edu> betsy@rainbow.uchicago.edu (Betsy Weatherhead) writes:
>
>I'm interested in the existence and practices of humane societies/
>animal shelters.  I am very impressed with the humane society that I
>volunteer for, West Suburban Humane Society, just west of Chicago.

My wife and I do volunteer work at the Capital District Humane Association
shelter in (well, near) Albany, NY. We're a no-kill shelter, although we
have very limited space. 

   Mike Jones  |  AIX/ESA Development  |  mjones@donald.aix.kingston.ibm.com

Only presidents, editors, and people with tapeworms have the right to use the
editorial "we."
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: crs@beta.lanl.gov (Charlie Sorsby)
Subject: Re: non-competitive shows (was Re: Show points and the )
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 14:17:05 GMT

In article <16854802E.X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu> X005CB@tamvm1.tamu.edu (Chris Barnes) writes:
=  
= See?  This is what I was talking about when I suggested a non-
= competitive conformation ring.  It just wouldn't happen.
=  
I guess some articles have expired here before I got to read them--
I'm way behind in my reading--I seem to have missed (or haven't yet
reached) the discussion of noncompetitive conformation shows.

Personally, I think that is a good idea--not to supplant, but to
supplement, the competitive shows, very much as the AKC Hunting
Tests supplement Field Trials.  The Hunting Tests are
noncompetitive--the dogs are judged against a standard of
performance and scored on how well they measure up, with an
adequate score producing one of several required "qualifications."
In the Field Trials, the dogs compete with each other.  Both
approaches have value.

Earlier I used the term "noncompetitive conformation shows" but I
don't mean to imply that it must be a separate event.  I see
nothing wrong with noncompetitive classes within the framework of
conventional bench shows (including, perhaps especially, specialty
shows).



-- 
Best,

Charlie "Older than dirt" Sorsby				"I'm the NRA!"
	  crs@lanl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee)
Subject: Re: Inexpensive and safe puppy toys
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 22:06:13 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.190907.8686@cas.org> sla54@cas.org (Sandra Augustine) writes:
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for inexpensive and safe puppy toys? They
>need to be inexpensive because I will need enough toys for 9 golden retriever
>puppies from the time that they're old enough for toys until they go to their
>new homes. They need to be "safe" because I'd like toys that I can leave with
>them when they are not being supervised (this excludes "squeaky" toys because
>the squeakers, when removed from the toy, can cause serious problems).
>
>Thanks for your ideas!
>
>********************************************************************************
>Sandra Augustine   | Home of: Remington of North Woods CDX, WC
>NORWOOD KENNELS    |          CH Laurell's Golden Gate CDX, WC (Reg. with TDI)
>ems: sla54@cas.org |          CH Delmar's Trivial Pursuit CD, WC (Reg. with TDI)
>********************************************************************************
>	       The above opinions are not those of my employer.
>********************************************************************************
>

Inexpensive is a relative term, so perhaps this won't help you.  I suggest
a puppy Nylabone.  They are slightly softer than the ordinary Nylabones, but
they are hard enough not to break into small pieces or cut gums.  They are
great for teething.  I have used these on all of my dogs, with *great* results.
They all loved them as pups, and they all love them as adults (in the "giant"
and "souper" sizes :-) ).  Helps clean the teeth too.  I have also used small 
Nylafloss and the small Gummabones as well with my pups, also with good results.  
I do not consider the later quite as safe, simply because an industrious puppy 
*can* chew pieces off of these.  However, if this happens, the pieces are small 
enough to pass right through the pup without problems.  I completely agree about 
the squeek toys.  I never give these to my dogs.

-- 
============================================================
Stephen R. Lee                 | 
OooWoo Racing Kennel           | I'd rather be driving sled
E-Mail: srlee@beta.lanl.gov    | dogs.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: LS45 <LS45@UNB.CA>
Subject: Any good Newf books?
Organization: The University of New Brunswick
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:25:10 GMT

After three years of visiting the animal shelter, reading
oodles of dog books, and deciding on a Spitz type dog, my
husband and I finally got our house with a yard and were ready
for our dog.  This morning we picked up our three month old
puppy from the pound, Newfoundland and maybe something else.  So
now we find that we need some Newf books, and were wondering what
everyone recommended.
Thanks in advance,
DMS
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: House of Hoytt
Date: 25 Aug 92 16:16:58 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

<dittwil.01o7@bbs1984.chi.il.us> <l9i84lINNdo0@pollux.usc.edu>
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Followup-To: 
Distribution: usa
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH
Keywords: puppy farm? yes or no?

In article <l9i84lINNdo0@pollux.usc.edu> cmchui@pollux.usc.edu (Chung Man
Chui) writes:
>What are the views of the net about this place?
>
My Opinion: A very expensive PUPPY MILL (ie commercial breeder of pure-bred
dogs). Their dogs do not meet the Standard for the breed nor compete in
AKC conformation shows; they charge an inordinate amount of mony for a puppy
with no apparent justification. Like Kimbertal, a place to avoid (again, IMHO)
*******************
Marget Johnson

--
From: williamsk@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (Desperately seeking a major)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Hot dog
Date: 27 Aug 92 07:11:40 EST

In article <1992Aug26.102447.1@opal.tufts.edu>, gbelli@opal.tufts.edu writes:
> Hi all!
>      So I have a stupid question--anyone who feels compelled to ridicule me,
> feel free.  Anyway--we've had a spell of 90 degree days here in Boston, with 
> no sign of relief until the end of the week.  My own discomfort aside, how
> worried should I be about my dog?  I've had dogs all my life, but when I 
> lived at the family homestead, we had air-conditioning (spoiled brat!).
> My beagle is in good health, but I worry about him being stuck in the house
>  in the heatall day.  It gets about 80 degrees inside.  What can I do to
>  make him more comfortable ?  Obviously, I've left him extra water (with 
> ice--don't laugh!), but what else can I do?  Also, what are signs of heat
> distress in dogs?  Thanks for all your patience and advice.

This of all things is NOT a stupid question.  Your beagle should be fine in
your house (and leaving water with ice cubes in it is okay - if not to keep
the water cool, maybe your beagle enjoys playing with the ice cubes in the 
water!)  If I were you, I would leave a fan on that really moves the air well.
That will help circulate the air and keep him more comfortable. My Spencer
(really - I wanted to spell it Spenser, but my husband won!) loves to sit
in front of a fan.  

Hope this helps,
Kim - who lives in NE Ohio and we are still waiting for the summer
to begin! (It's been mostly cool and rainy here this summer.)
From: srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee)
Subject: Re: Snake-proofing (was Re: SHOCK COLLARS (go ahead flame ME!!))
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 15:30:24 GMT

In article <1992Aug27.002048.28130@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> srb@atmosmips.jpl.nasa.gov (Susan Beutelschies) writes:
>In article <2A9BECAB.23236@ics.uci.edu>, tittle@ics.uci.edu (Cindy Tittle Moore) writes:
>|> 
>|> Just throwing in some information into the fray: as far as I know,
>|> shock-collars are the single most effective way to snake-proof dogs...
>|> Extremely useful, that, especially out west here.
>|> 
>|> --Cindy
>
>This reminds me - when we took our dog backpacking a month ago, she brought
>back to our camp a smelly already-dead snake.  I wondered what she would have
>done if the snake were alive.  Do dogs have a natural instinct to avoid snakes?
>(She's a Manchester terrier mix, if that matters.)  I assume by your post, Cindy,
>that at least in many cases they don't.  So to snake-proof a dog, what do you use
>as bait?  Would a rubber snake do, or is smell important?

In the latest _Malamute Quarterly_, there is an article about snake-proofing.
Basically, one takes a de-fanged rattler and allow the dog access to it.  When
the dog shows interest, the shock is applied (via training collar).  If there
is interest, I'll try and summarize the article here.  I loaned the magazine 
to a friend that has Germ. Shorthairs as he is interested in having it done to
his dogs.  I know of no other way to reliably snake-proof a dog.  I have always
wondered about this technique and snakes that do not make noise, however.  How
does one proof them?  The rattle is distinctive.  The snake itself is not, at
least not to a dog.  All of the snake-proofing stuff I have read always deals
with rattle snakes.  Can anyone satisfy my curiosity?

As far as dogs having a natural instinct to avoid snakes, I would have to say
their natural instincts are to be curious about snakes.  At least the ones I
have seen anyway.  Curiosity leads to investigation, and if it is a rattler,
a neat noise and additional investigation and . . .

-- 
============================================================
Stephen R. Lee                 | 
OooWoo Racing Kennel           | I'd rather be driving sled
E-Mail: srlee@beta.lanl.gov    | dogs.
From: clr60@ccc.amdahl.com (Catherine L Reck)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Dog Cart For Sale
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:38:10 GMT
Reply-To: clr60@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Catherine L Reck)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA


For Sale:

Tundra Falcon Trainer Dog Cart

This dog cart meets or exceeds all ISDRA requirements for dog carts. It has
adjustable brakes with brake locks, heavy duty grips on the handlebars. The
cart is 40" wide by 72" long by 50" high. The wheels are 14 1/2" by 4 1/2" O.D.
with 2 ply rating traction tread. The 5/8" precision ball bearings are sealed.
The cart is red with a black platform for the driver to stand on. The cart
weighs 170 pounds.

Asking $500.00

The reason we are selling the cart is we recently purchased a Sacco dog cart.
The Sacco dog cart is lighter, easier to transport, and you steer the dogs.
It is excellent for training leaders. (See Jeff King's article in the lasest
Mushing Magazine.) Because you steer the dogs it is easier to use in our
suburban area.

The Tundra Falcon Trainer Dog Cart is in Sunnyvale, California. If you are
interested please give me a call. It would probably be easier for you to
pick the cart up, rather than to ship it.

Catherine Reck (408) 733 7919
Siber Kahn Kennel - the kennel kids, Yuri and Khiva
Khiva Working Dog Outfillers - Dog carts, sleds, harnesses, backpacks etc.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: emily@azariah.tamu.edu (Emily Glass)
Subject: Re: IAMS dog food -- Purina Proplan
Organization: Texas A&M University, Dept. of Electrical Engineering
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 19:55:13 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.090108.28360@hemlock.cray.com> djg@cray.com (Dennis Guldan) writes:
>
>   We have had great luck with Purina Proplan.
>Proplan comes in three varieties: Puppy, Adult & Active dog.
>We have had many compliments on her shiny coat, which we feel
>is the direct result of her food. Her stools are very limited
>because Pro Plan does not have a lot of undigestable fillers.
>

My Bouvier puppy had loose stools with Proplan and IAMs.  Science Diet Growth
was ok for the stools, but he didn't like it (and wouldn`t eat it 
consistantly). Purina Puppy Chow is what I currently use. He doesn't like 
the regular flavor, only the beef flavor (which has red dye -- a possible 
carcinigen-- which worries me).  Furthermore, he still has periodic soft 
stools.

Someone (I misplaced the post) suggested lamb and rice over Purina Puppy
Chow.  Does this really solve the problem, and if so, what brand?  And 
does someone make a lamb and rice food for puppies?

Emily Glass
From: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Hot dog
Date: 27 Aug 92 13:17:57 GMT
Reply-To: mjohnson@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Marget Johnson)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <1992Aug26.102447.1@opal.tufts.edu> gbelli@opal.tufts.edu writes:
>My beagle is in good health, but I worry about him being stuck in the house
> in the heatall day.  It gets about 80 degrees inside.  What can I do to
> make him more comfortable ?  Obviously, I've left him extra water (with 
>ice--don't laugh!)........................

Gretchen: Living with Newfoundlands has made me very heat concious, and over
the years I've used the following technqiues to "beat the heat" at dog shows
and other un-refrigerated locales:

Freeze water in 1/2 gallon wax  milk cartons. Put one or two of these
in Spencer's crate when you leave in the morning, on top of terry cloth towels
that have been soaked in water, wrung out, and kept in the refrigerator
overnight (of course you have a metal tray/pan in the bottom of the crate to
collect the water as the ice melts). Buy a couple 20" fans (Kmart,etc has them
for $15 each) and place them in his room such that the fans blow on the
crate. If you don't confine him to the crate...just make it available...then
he will self-regulate his body temperature by taking advantage of the "cool
zone" when he gets too hot. I would say for a short-haired dog like a Beagle,
if you are comfortable in the heat, so is he. For a double-coated long-haired
breed like a Newf, if you aren't too hot wearing a mink coat inside-out, 
then the dog will feel about the same.

Beagles are pretty tough little dogs,  so I wouldn't be too concerned as
long as he has plenty of ice water and maybe a cooling breeze!
*******************************************
Marget Johnson, Windwagon Newfs
--
From: young@alw.nih.gov
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: SHOCK COLLARS (go ahead flame ME!!)
Date: 3 Sep 1992 06:43:10 -0500
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

In article <1992Sep2.223808.10544@pony.Ingres.COM> you write:
|> young@alw.nih.gov writes:
|> > If you have a voice (loud and strong) enough to train a big-running
|> > pointer or german shorthair for field work more power to you.
|> 
|> Good reason to train hand motions with voice.
|> 
|> Of course, a noisy city is another reason.
|> 
|> -- Jon
|> 
|> Jon Krueger  jpk@ingres.com  

By "Big-Running" I mean operating at distance of 300 yards plus on the
edges of fields where they are obscured from view at times.  I do train
hand signals but they are all but useless in the field.  

--I know the lab folks use them extensively from such distances but 
remember that before they use them the dog is brought to a sit facing
the trainer with a sharp whistle.  It is not likely that a pointer 
would *ever* be trained to do this, they're just moving too fast, etc.

The point being that there are applications for these things and as
with any type of training it takes patience and planning to use one.


-- 
___________	
	jy
	young@heart.dcrt.nih.gov
From: srlee@beta.lanl.gov (Stephen R Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Are dogs color blind?
Date: 26 Aug 92 18:39:08 GMT
Organization: Los Alamos National Laboratory

In article <1992Aug26.173807.20243@newshost.lanl.gov> davids@gardener.lanl.gov (David Simmons) writes:
>

[stuff about color perception in dogs deleted]

>
>Now for another question:  Night vision.
>
>Does anyone have any info (it needn't be as good as the above, but it
>would be nice ;-)) on the accuracy of canine night vision?  McDuff
>can't see beans at night--even with his >300 watt flood light system
>that I installed in the back yard (he thought he was god the first
>time he walked out the back door and the whole world lit up!). With
>the lights off, he bumbles around well enough, but he can't find
>*anything*.

This is interesting.  It has always been my understanding that dogs have
superior vision at night (superior to ours).  My dogs certainly have _no_
trouble at all running around at night, and I live in an area where the only
light at night is that provided by the moon.  Unfortuneately, I do not have
any of the articles I have read about canine night vision with me, so I can
only go from memory.  I think it is mentioned in the Gazette article too, but
I can't remember.  My understanding is that one reason they do not perceive
colors as sharply is because the have more of the "other" (rods versus cones
I suppose, I can never remember which is which) types of cells that are
better for night vision.  Therefore, they pay for their superior night
vision by a reduction in being able to perceive details and color.   I don't
know why your dog has trouble at night.  I can`t remember, is he a pup?  That
might have something to do with it.  Otherwise, I guess different dogs will
have different abilities to see different things in different circumstances,
just like people.

>
>David G. Simmons
>davids@lanl.gov
>

-- 
============================================================
Stephen R. Lee                 | 
OooWoo Racing Kennel           | I'd rather be driving sled
E-Mail: srlee@beta.lanl.gov    | dogs.
From: prange@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Henry Prange)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
Subject: Re: Dogs and Jogging
Date: 1 Sep 92 20:34:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Indiana University

In article <1992Sep1.131115.26377@fns-nc1.fns.com> vib@fns-nc1.fns.com (Victor Bur) writes:
>
>In article <47004@shamash.cdc.com> smp@aquarius1.Berkeley.EDU (Susan M Painter) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug31.182814.260@eos.arc.nasa.gov>, dencisco@eos.arc.nasa.gov (David Paul Encisco) writes:
>>Minnesota
>
>My opinion: if you are experienced jogger/runner, NO dog is suitable for
>you.  By "design", canines can deliver high speed for a short distance
>(during the pray chaise, for example), but they are not built for a long,
>steady running.  If you want to do that, watch for the damage you may
>inflict on dog's hips, and also have an emergency kit ready for injuries
>and/or overheating.
>
>Best regards,
>Victor
>
Dogs may not be able to *run* for a long time but they sure as hell can trot.
I know of an experiment where I dog ran (trotted) on a treadmill continuously
for 27 hours (water was provided) and the experimented was terminated when
the humans watching were too tired to go on! The dog was still standing on
the treadmill ready for more.
Wolves and cape hunting dogs typically follow their prey 'till the prey
drops. They are, like horses, incredible aerobic machines. If some of the
heavy working breeds can't run for long, there are many, e.g., hounds, that
can run on and on and on.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs
From: us267384@mmm.serc.3m.com (Steven M. Anastasi)
Subject: Dogs and swimming - oh no !! 
Organization: 3M - St. Paul, MN  55144-1000 US
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 20:54:58 GMT

Its fun to get out and swim with my golden.  She swims back and forth
between my wife and I - great excercise.  IF she is swimming (not
walking on the bottom) then she can get tired and she likes to be held afloat
while she takes a short breather.  So ....

I was out swimming over my head and here she comes a-swimming toward
me.  She gets to me and puts her paws on my shoulders and down I
go over my head.  I surface and she pushes me down again.  I think -
MAN I could drown out here.  I couldn't swim away because she is
faster.  I couldn't keep my head above water because she was resting
on me.  I tried holding her paws but that pushed me under water too.
I finally turned towards shore and swam with her SHARP claws scratching
my back the whole way until I got to shallower water.

It never crossed my mind that a happy go lucky dog could drowned
someone like that.  What would happen if it was a kid swimming?
I keep my feet on the ground now when she's out swimming with me.


-- 
Steve Anastasi	
smanastasi@mmm.com
St. Paul, Minnesota
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs