HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wbrown@bevsun.bev.lbl.gov (Bill Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 26 Jan 1993 20:52:33 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: 131.243.192.17

In article <2B656A90.13919@news.service.uci.edu> dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu () writes:
>	...
>thing is only open the valve one quarter to one half turn.  This will not
>restrict the flow and will allow you to shut it off quickly in case of an
>emergency.

I'm certainly not an authority on welding but I'll pass on the following
information, for what it may (or may not) be worth.

Many years ago I was taking a training class for part-time Vocational
teachers.  The instructor was the head of the welding department at a
local (Contra Cost) Jr. College.  In the course of events, he was teaching
us how to write test questions.  One Example was:

Q; How far should the valve on an acetylene cylinder be opened?
A: Fully open.
Q: Why?
A: The valve on a gas cylinders is made with a "double seat".  Fully opening
     the valve allows the seat to take the pressure, rather than depending on
     the valve packing.

That was nearly 20 years ago, but I think I remember it because it made
quite an impression on me.

Your mileage may vary.

Disclaimer:  These opinions are my own and have	    |
    nothing to do with the official policy or the   |  -bill
    management of L.B.L, who probably couldn't      |   wlbrown@lbl.gov
    care less about employees who play with trains. |
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 27 Jan 93 00:56:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: lll-wink.147803
Organization: LLNL

In article <28651@dog.ee.lbl.gov>, wbrown@bevsun.bev.lbl.gov (Bill Brown) writes:
> 
 test questions.  One Example was:
> 
> Q; How far should the valve on an acetylene cylinder be opened?
> A: Fully open.
> Q: Why?
> A: The valve on a gas cylinders is made with a "double seat".  Fully opening
>      the valve allows the seat to take the pressure, rather than depending on
>      the valve packing.
> 

I think you mean the oxygen cylinder, which is pressurized (when full) to
about 2500 psi.  The double seal prevents escape of gas.

My recollection is that you only open an acetylene cylinder as far as
necessary to get enough gas flow.  The reason is that you don't want to be
cranking the valve a lot if you get a backfire.  Oxygen, if you avoid oil
and grease, doesn't catch fire.  If necessary you can leave a busted valve
alone and let the cylinder leak down without burning down your shop.  All
you'll lose is the gas in the cylinder.

An acetylene fire is different.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Help!  Snapped off a bolt!
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:22:13 GMT

cstone@nodecg.ncc.telecomwa.oz.au (Charlie Stone 4915162) writes:
: In article <1993Jan19.182954.17204@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:

: >There are several possibilities.
: >
: >1) Do as you said, drill out the hole and tap it for an oversized bolt.
: 
: This would be my last option - Don't do this if you can avoid it as it spoils
: the machine.  Try everything else first.

Yeah - I should have listed them in order of preference. 

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: jon@unislc.uucp (Jon Bork)
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 13:36:42 GMT

From article <4157@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, by clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis):
> In article <146933@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV> gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
>>In article <1993Jan19.063825.7657@adobe.com>, pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai) writes:
> 
>>> I was thinking of making an aluminum plate, perhaps 18 inches square,
>>> with a grid of threaded holes, perhaps 1 inch apart.
> 
>>I've been waiting for somebody to pick up on this, but nobody has.  18 X 18
>>with holes on 1" spacing means about 17 X 17 holes to tap.  That's 289
>>holes, folks.  I don't know about you, but that many holes would be a chore
>>to drill even with a drill press, let alone tap by hand.  Even layout would
>>be tedious.  
> 
> I agree tho.  Even in aluminum, 289 threaded holes is gonna be a bitch.
> 
> Try just drilling them and using pins first...

How about making a jig? Take a piece of scrap big enough for 4 holes
arranged in a 2x2 matrix. In one row of the matrix, attach rods
that will just fit in a 1/4-20 hole. In the other row, fit drill
bit bushings. It looks like:

                   ----
                   |  | 
      |----|  |----|  |----|
      |----|  |----|  |----|
           |  |
           ----

Looking at it from end on down the columns. 
(Damn it, vi is no CAD package!)

Now once you've drilled 2 holes off along one edge row, you
drop the jig in and use it to site the next 2 holes. You
should be able to use this to drill all the rest of the holes.

Possible problems include measurement creep if the jig
is not precise and you still have to drill 289 threaded holes!
This is a jig I've used in woodworking, not sure how well
the idea works in metal with tougher tolerances. (If I
remember the original posting, this was mostly a clampdown
pad. (Maybe a few thou off over 18" isn't critical) Tapping
is still a real pain.

Know anyone who just might have a $80K CNC machine in their
garage doing nothing?  :-)


-- 

Jon Bork
Phone: (801) 594-5508	Fax: (801) 594-6708	OFIS:	JEB1/CORP
internet: jon@unislc.slc.unisys.com  -or- unislc!jon
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:56:01 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

Charles K. Scott (Charles.K.Scott@dartmouth.edu) wrote:
: In article <2B656A90.13919@news.service.uci.edu>
: dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu () writes:

: > The 
: > regulator pressures are not all that important as the flame adjustment is
: > made at the knobs in the torch handle.

: Ok, so far so good.  Now a comment about technique.  I spoke with my
: father in law who used to weld A LOT about welding thinking I could
: interest him in what I'm doing and learn something.  Unfortunately, he
: welded so long ago that the techniques he used have now been
: discredited.  For instance, he said he used to chop up pieces of the
: material he was gone to weld and used that as welding rod.  Everything
: I've read lately tells me that you really should not be using the same
: material for a rod that the pieces to be welded.  He also said he used
: to heat the rod and let the molten material drip onto the weld area. 
: This would produce a very poor weld from aircraft standards because the
: base metal would not be heated enough to bond the dripping slag.  So my
: attempt to include my father in law came to nought.  I don't dare use
: any of his suggestions as they are improper technique for a penetrating
: and high strength weld.

: Does anyone have any comment about the size of the rod (with regard to
: the thickness of the material I'm welding,.080") and the technique I
: mentioned about keeping the rod in the puddle as the puddle is moved
: along.  Is this what everyone does?

: Thanks again, Corky Scott

Corky,

Are you actually Oxy Acetelyn  WELDING or BRAZING?

Dave Parsons
From: mscr_ss@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Matthew Scher)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Clock plans
Keywords: clock
Date: 24 Jan 93 21:14:31 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York

I would like to buid a large metal clock work, one that works.
Does anyone know where Ican get scaled drawings of what the gears would look
like--I plan to enlarge them and cut them out of metal.

Thanks
Matt
From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: IC engines.
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:59:46 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services (crash, ctsnet), El Cajon, CA


	Gas Engine Magazine has a monthly column devoted to problems
restoring old IC engines.  The column also has a section on model building.
Names and addresses are given so they can be contacted.

	Gas Engine Magazine
	P.O. Box 328
	Lancaster, PA 17603

	Ph. (717) 392-0733
	FAX (717) 392-1341

	DonB
From: ebe+@pitt.edu (Elmer Beachley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CLOCKS list and re-posting
Date: 25 Jan 93 02:37:06 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh


Is there an internet address for subscription to CLOCKS?  All that was
posted was listserv@suvm.

Elmer Beachley ebe+@pitt.edu etb@cs.pitt.edu
From: mlh1@bunny.gte.com (Michael Hackney)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Double threads
Date: 28 Jan 93 14:41:15 GMT
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Organization: GTE Laboratories

In article <1993Jan27.094439.420@news.uwyo.edu>, jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
wrote:
> 
> 
> I checked my Penn tool catalog, which must have 25 pages or more of taps,
> and could not find *any* double threaded taps.  Is this such a rare thing
> that nobody makes such taps?

Could you email me the phone # (or address) for Penn Tool please. I am
looking for 3/8" right and left hand taps and dies.

thanks,
michael
From: mfleet@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How to fix forge grate?
Date: 25 Jan 93 15:13:20 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <1993Jan20.055502.28820@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu>, bwhite@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu (William E. White ) writes:
> 
> These opinions come from someone much more knowledgeable than me, so I
> probably can't answer questions directly, but I can ask Bryian what he
> says about it; he was instructed and has taught as a smith.
> 
> In article <1993Jan13.150353.4983@bmerh85.bnr.ca> cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin) writes:
>>I've been learning to forge using a small coal forge (rivetter's forge?) 
>>and over time, the grate (toyere?) has burned away.
> 
> That's tuyere, BTW.
> 
>>As a temporary fix, I built it up using generic arc welding rod, knowing
>>full well that this will probably burn up faster than the original grate.  
>>My question is, what would be a more permanent fix?
> 
> Try building the fire up higher on the coal stack.  Get a disker blade
> from a old piece of farm machinery and set it in a rim from a truck or
> bus.  Attatch a T-section of cast iron pipe, put a plate on the bottom,
> attatch airflow to the side, and you have a bottom-blast forge.  This
> will help immensely.  The tool steel has less of a chance of burning
> up as the cast as it is not affected in the same way by the carbon from
> the coal.
> 
>>The forge has a large flat circular bed (approx. 18 inch diameter), the grate
>>sits in the middle, bulging up slightly above the bed (ie. there is no 
>>depressed firepot).  Am I doing something wrong, or is it expected that 
>>the grate will eventually burn away?  
> 
> You have a wheelwright's forge.  It is designed for heating a very small
> area on a steel rim before it is set on a wheel (usually for riveting 
> purposes).  Get a larger forge and you will be better off (the design
> above is portable and fairly cheap; around 20-25 dollars to build).
> 
>>Any help would be grately appreciated.
> 
> Hope this helps; if you have questions email and I [Bill] will have Bryian
> look them over.
> 
>>Cheers, Rick C.
> 
> 
> -- 
> |  Bill White   +1-614-594-3434     | bwhite@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu             |
> |  31 Curran Dr., Athens OH  45701  | bwhite@bigbird.cs.ohiou.edu (alternate) |
> |  SCA: Erasmus Marwick, Dernehealde Pursuivant, Dernehealde, Middle Kingdom  |
****
****
On a small round, cast-iron forge of this type, I had the same problem.  
I used a cast-iron floor drain grate from a wholesale plumbing house,
with "ears" arc-welded to the grate. It's been working for me in light
use for about a year.
From: rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (R.C. Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Welders
Date: 25 Jan 93 15:27:54 GMT
Organization: Chevron Oil Field Research Co., La Habra, CA

In article <C0ut1v.3rw@bcstec.ca.boeing.com> nick@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Nick Leiterman) writes:
>Tell me about welders,
>
.......
If you can afford it , I suggest a Lincoln SP 100 MIG welder.
The cost of the unit is ~ $450. but after gas cylinder (C25), regulator and
supplies it'll cost about $700.
 Gas shield beats the hell out of flux-core (unless you are in a windy area).
With multiple passes you can weld all the thicknesses mentioned. It's wonderful
for thin stuff like sheetmetal and auto bodies. I have an AC 225 'BuzzBox' also,
after $700+ the $190. (Price Club) for the AC 225 seemed cheap. The only time I
use the AC 225 is for quick work on really crudy iron with a 6011 weave.
 You'll love MIG. If you can weld stick, you will be an 'artist' with MIG.
See if you can get your supplier to arrange a hands-on demo.
-- 
  |___________________________________________________________________| 
>>| Dik Jones, Earth Model Interpretation   Internet: rcj@Chevron.com |
  | Chevron Petroleum Technology Company.        Tel:  (310) 694-7056 | 
  | La Habra, California 90633-0446              Fax:  (310) 694-7063 |  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rardin@binah.cc.brandeis.edu (R. Lynn Rardin)
Subject: Re: [F] flying fox vs. pl*co
Reply-To: rardin@binah.cc.brandeis.edu
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:40:06 GMT

In article <1jnmb1INNant@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu>, John Opsomer <jo14@cornell.edu> writes:
>In article <1993Jan21.180025.2863@news.cs.brandeis.edu> R. Lynn Rardin,rardin@binah.cc.brandeis.edu writes:
>>I want to purchase either a pl*co or a flying fox to take care of algae in my 
>>15 gal. (high) freshwater tank.  Currently I have 4 leopard danios and 4 
>>serpae tetras in the tank.  Are there big advantages to one versus the other?
>
>Well, I'm sure other people will disagree with me, but here's my opinion
>(having had both fish, and having brought back the flying fox to the
>store).
>
>Given the size of your tank, don't even think about getting a fox!
>Although they  might look small and cute (?) in the pet shop, they grow
>fast... and big (mine was 5 inches when I gave him up).  In addition,
>they are obnoxious, fast swimmers and pester the other fish.  And oh yes,
>they eat algae too.

I'm wondering now if the fish I commonly see in stores are actually flying 
foxes or some other, related variety.  The pictures of flying foxes I've seen 
show very distinct stripes.  I noticed that the coloration of the fish in the 
store tends to be more checkered.  Is this more checkered-looking fish a 
smaller, less agressive variety, by chance?

-Lynn  (rardin@auriga.rose.brandeis.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Konrad)
Subject: Re: (F) [F] Severums in a community?
Organization: Purdue University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 14:22:09 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.171339.13868@bsu-ucs>
01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes: 
>Thus far, I have only Cory's and a Clown Loach in my 30 gallon (standard) tank,
>so I guess maybe one Severum wouldn't be a bad idea, eh?  Maybe I'll just make
>it a (relatively) peaceful cichlid tank -- such as severums, angels,
>fire-mouth, Blue Acara, etc.
>
>				-Matt

I wouldn't consider firemouths to be "relatively peaceful."  Mine have
been quite aggressive. They were able to hold there own against two
pairs of breeding convicts. I also would hesitate to consider severums
as "relatively peaceful" as well.  Although they may not be as
intolerant as some other cichlids--mine didn't go out of its way to
harass other fish, being mostly content to be left alone, it didn't
hesitate to assert itself when another fish came too close. 

A firemouth would, IMHO, definately be a poor choice for a community
tank, unless it was a tank of similar sized fish. A firemouth and
severum could probably co-exist, provided they both had space to
establish their own territories. I'd strongly advise against an
angelfish/severum combination as the angelfish will fare badly against
a severum. I don't know much about a Blue Acara. I think that a
severum would be fairly aggressive against any other cichlids in the
same tank. If the other cichlid were about the same size and of a
similarly moderate-level of aggressiveness *AND* both had space to
establish their own territories, then they might make a good
combination. 


-- 
Bill Konrad
konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu
From: as789@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Francisco J. Diaz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Dying Oscar
Date: 23 Jan 1993 02:21:40 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


 Hi All! I need help with my fish, an Albino Oscar! It seems to 
be very sick, today all of a sudden I have noticed some type of 
fungus that is "eating up" all his fins! I have no medicines for
it and would like to know of some type of medicine to cure it the
easiest way and that I can buy easily. Also would like to know if
I need to change the water temp and anything else that I need to
do to save my fish...Respond by E-mail if possible, Thanx! 
-- 
|     Francisco J. Diaz Rivera     |                           |
|     University of Puerto Rico    | If the shoe fits, buy it! |
|    "I hate MATH classes!" :-)    |           - Imelda Marcos |
|     STUD137@CUTB.UPR.CLU.EDU     |                           |
From: erik@marge.phys.washington.edu (Erik D. Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] flying fox vs. pl*co
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 19:17:51 GMT
Organization: Cosmic Ray Labratory, University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: scratchy.phys.washington.edu

In article <1jpmi3$s66@introl.introl.com> pete@introl.com (Pete Ikusz) writes:

>I got lost somewhere in this paragraph. What is the difference
>between a ancestrus, pekolita, pleco, and or hypostamus specis?
>I do not have an Aquarium reference handy.
>Is there some sort of FAQ for this?!!! :-)
>If there isn't I think we now need one!

Pekoltia, Plecostomas, and Hypostomus are all members of the Loricaradae
family of catfish.  Pekoltia and Hypostamus are distinct genus; I can never 
figure out if Plecostamus is a genus or the species H. plecostamus.  In 
any case, they all get called plecos as common names.  Pekoltia are smaller 
than Hypostamus, and I've seen them as "clown pleco"'s in some local 
places.  No clue on ancestrus.  Also no clue on how to spell any of the 
above correctly!

   Erik
---
Erik D. Olson                              erik@marge.phys.washington.edu
UW Cosmic Ray Laboratory                        olson@phys.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: csmith@mpr.ca (Cameron Smith)
Subject: [F] Black tetra - Info Requested
Organization: MPR Teltech Ltd., Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 14:47:50 GMT


While at the fish store last night I saw some beautiful fish, and would
like to know if anyone is familiar with them.  The fish was called a
"Blueberry Tetra", a small (4 cm long and oval in shape) silver fish with
the faintest blue visible in the right light.   One of the employees thought 
its scientific name was Gymnocorymbus ternetzi.  Now this, I believe, is 
the Black tetra and has a couple of vertical Black strips (the Blueberry
Tetra that I saw and the black tetra do look a lot alike in size and
shape).  Can G. ternetzi assume this color color pattern.  

I understand from Baensch's Atlas the the G. ternetzi and the G. thayeri 
are often confused.  I think that it is more reasonable to assume that the
fish that I was is more likely a G.thayeri, but I can't tell from the
pictures whether G.thayeri has this blue tinge.

Now here is where I really get confused.  This store also had a large
number of what were called "Assorted Color Albino Black Tetras", each fish
was basically silver with either a green, red or blue hue (deeper blue than
the "Blueberry").  The posted scientific name was also G. ternetzi.  Again,
I think it more likely that these are G. thayeri, but their colors are so
vivid.  
Baensch says P.264 Re: Maintenance of G. thayeri 
	"A darker tank bottom, strong filteration and plants offering 
	hiding places will encourage the brighter solors which come 
	from happy fish."

But as my wife said, I don't think those fish are THAT happy!

Are these fish displaying their natural colors or have they been painted :(

Comments?? more info would be appreciated.

Thanks

Cameron
-- 
Cameron Smith                    Curiouser and Curiouser!!
MPR Teltech Ltd.
Burnaby B.C.  V5A 4B5
Internet: csmith@mprgate.mpr.ca
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Building aquariums
Date: 22 Jan 1993 01:07:49 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu

A20076@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Dan Whitaker) writes:

>I built a 90 gallon aquarium several years ago. I had no idea what
>kind or thickness of glass to use so I played it safe and used
>half inch plate glass with all the edges sanded smooth.  It ended
>up costing me more than I could have bought it for at that time.
>It was a good experience though. I would like to attempt it again.
>Has anyone any idea about what is the best kind of glass and what
>thickness for different dimensions?  Are there other suitable
>materials available? How about Plexiglass?

Adey & Loveland's _Dynamic Aquaria_ has a graph of suggested glass
thicknesses for panes of given dimensions.  FWIW, I would guess that
you're still not going to save money if you need something thicker
than quarter inch.  This is what I will use for the windows in a
planned sealed wood tank of my own.

-- 
Dustin Laurence       "As sensitive and broad-minded humans, we must never
                       allow ourselves to be in any way judgmental of the
laurence@alice         religious practices of other people, even when these
caltech.edu           people clearly are raving space loons." -- Dave Barry
From: sylvia@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Sylvia Budak)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:37:28 GMT
Subject: [M] Salt mixes
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria



I used my first bag of Coral Life Salt on Monday during an emergency water
change.  I was nicely surprized by how quickly this salt completely mixes.
In a mater of ten minutes with occational stirring and moderate areation it is
completely mixed!  I was told that Hawaiin Marine Mix was good because it 
mixed so well, but this stuff mixes 10X faster and mixes COMPLETELY.  Both 
Instant Ocean and Hawaiin Marine mix don't ever quite mix completely.

I could do my massive water change with this new salt without the aquarium
having that milky appearance.  There was just a hint of this with the Coral 
Life salt, and it vanished within an hour.

I'm interested in hearing about what other people think of this and other
salts.   Unless someone thinks I should go back to Hawaiin Marine Mix or use
another salt I'm sold on the Coral Life salt.

By the way, the emergency change seems to have done the trick so far.  My 
Tangs are back to eating, although they are real skittish about it.

Thanks,

Sylvia
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: [F] Aqua-scaping - any Ideas?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 18:31:37 GMT

Randall K. Spicher (cavalama@bsu-cs.bsu.edu) wrote:
: fester@island.COM (Mike Fester) writes:
: 
: : 
: : I forget the name of it, but there is a very small, dark green plant that 
: : will grow slowly but quite well. Strictly speaking, it is not aquatic, but
: : will grow quite well underwater. Sends out shoots laterally and will eventually
: : take over most of your foreground. I'll post the scientific name, if I can 
: : find it.
: : 
: : Mike
: : -- 
: 
: Might you be reffering to "horsetail" sword-grass?  (sort of twirls up
: as it grows,  looks kind of like clumps of grass)

Sounds more like java fern.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria