HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Info on Better wide angle
From: paulf@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu (Paul Frankenstein, Bs.D.)
Date: 11 SEP 92 16:04:10    
Reply-To: paulf@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu
Distribution: world,local
Organization: x=x^2+C
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-a4  

In article <PHR.92Sep11144804@soda.berkeley.edu>, phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin) writes...
> 
>    The general consensus on the net seems to be that the bottom-end
>    AF SLRs (Canon Rebel, Nikon 4004/f401, Minolta 3xi, etc) arn't
>    much more than point-and-shoot cameras with interchangeable
>    lenses. If you really want AF, go with the next higher level
>    (Nikon 6006/f601, Canon Elan, Minolta 5xi).
> 
>I've never gotten this feeling either from the net or from using
>the cameras.  Almost all point and shoots don't let you focus
>or set exposure manually.  All the low-end SLR's you mention do, with
>varying amounts of inconvenience.  

Perhaps I should have rephrased my statement: while most low-end AF SLR's are
indeed SLR's, and do offer the option of all-manual control, they are designed
(ore at least seem designed) to discourage using the manual controls and
learning more about photography.

Also, they tend to break easily and don't stand up to abuse well.

About the max. shutter speed debate: the amount of time it takes for a 
focal-plane shutter to traverse the opening is 1/2*(x sync speed)+current 
shutter speed.

-----
paulf@hacks.arizona.edu
paulf%hacks.decnet@telcom.arizona.edu
To sit in solitude, to think in solitude with only the music of the stream and
the cedar to break the flow of silence, here lies the value of wilderness.
						-- John Muir
From: howard@titan.hal.com (Howard Gayle)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Specs on Leafscan 45 scanner
Date: 6 Sep 92 17:57:07 GMT
Reply-To: howard@hal.com (Howard Gayle)
Organization: HaL Computer Systems, Inc., Campbell, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: titan.hal.com

The Aug. 1992 issue of Photo District News has an ad (p. 41) for
the Leafscan 45 multi-format color film scanner.  Some specs:
   16 bits per color channel (48 bits per pixel)
   35mm to 4x5 format
   up to 5000 DPI resolution
   "as low as $14,995"
So, one 6x6 (56mm square) image at 5000 DPI would have 122
million pixels or 729 Mbyte, with no compression.
--
Howard Gayle
HAL Computer Systems, Inc.
1315 Dell Avenue
Campbell, California 95008
USA
howard@hal.com
Phone: +1 408 379 7000 extension 1080
FAX  : +1 408 379 5022
From: falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: What measures the flashlight
Date: 5 Sep 1992 02:31:46 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: peregrine

In article <1992Sep4.120622.402@bernina.ethz.ch> stettbac@isibee5 (Juerg Stettbacher) writes:
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>meter     1    2    3     4     6     8    10
>         
>(yellow)-------------------------------
> (green)-------------------           I
>                          O           O
>
>aperture       16   11    8    5.6    4    2.8
> 
>                          v
>ASA              25  50  100  200 400
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>(The aperture scale can be moved)
>
>If I'm right, I'd say, that with green (and ASA 100) I should set 
>an aperture 8 and can so take pictures in the range from 1 to 4
>meters.

Exactly correct.  Furthermore, if you flash has an 'M' setting, you
determine the aperture for any given distance by looking at the
scales.  For example, at 6 meters in 'M' mode, you'd set the
camera to 5.6.

>Now the question: What measures the eye on the front side, light,
>distance or something else?

I don't quite understand your question.  If you're asking how the flash
determines the distance to the subject, the answer is: it doesn't.

The flash has a light sensor in the front which shuts the flash down
when enough light has been reflected back from the subject to make
the exposure.  If your subject is dark, your maximum working distance
would be less than 4 meters for instance.


		-ed falk, sun microsystems
		 sun!falk, falk@sun.com
	"Towards the end, the smell of their air began to change"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: CANON off camera flash cord. Operation with 630. Any info?
Organization: AT&T
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 18:44:55 GMT

I have the Canon off camera flash cord which preserves all 430 EZ flash
functions when used with all EOS cameras EXCEPT the 630 and RT (and maybe
some other now defunct models). I seem to remember someone trying out this
cord with the 630 to see what, if any, off camera flash modes would operate.
Does anyone have a copy of this posting? Maybe the original poster is still
around and has more info. I am hoping that at least the fully manual flash
mode might still be OK. I got the cord for use with a 10s, but I'm hoping
I might be able to get SOME modes to work with the 630.

Does anyone know WHY the 630 and RT don't work with this cord? If it were
just a pin-for-pin extension cord I don't see how the camera would know that
the flash wasn't on the camera. What else does it do? When I asked a Canon
rep, he said that the cord didn't work with the 630 but he had no explanation
of why this should be so. The speedlite reference manual is equally
informative!


===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih)
Subject: Re: How rugged is F601/6006 ?
Date: 8 Sep 92 22:37:58 GMT

A friend of a friend has had his flash repaired several times.  Otherwise,
no problems.

ACS
-- 
 ___ ___ ___ ______________________________________________________________
|   |   | __|      Democracy is not a way of getting better solutions.     |
| - | --|__ |           It's just a way to spread the blame.               |
|_|_|___|___|______________________________________________________________|
Alvin_C._Shih____________________acs@csri.utoronto.ca______________________|
From: wkc@cup.portal.com (William Kirk Clendinning)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikkor 35->200 3.5/4.5 AIS zoom
Date: Fri,  4 Sep 92 21:58:26 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

I own the 35-200 lens and have been very happy with it.  It is a
compact lens that I use in situations that I don't want to carry
my entire ensemble, yet am not sure enough of the situation to choose
only one.  For instance, I find it very useful when I shoot test shots
of a location.  Also, in situations where I want to have the camera
available, yet not be encumbered with a large pack or camera bag, such 
as vacationing it has been invaluable in allowing me to take a quick
shot without making the whole family wait while I change lenses.
Even though it's a bit on the slow side for wide angle shots, I've
not run into a situation that prevented me from obtaining an image.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: amakkawy@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (AbdelAziz Makkawy)
Subject: Good Camera/Developing stores in Chicago area
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 08:22:15 GMT

I am looking for a good photographic supplies store in the Chicago
area. Also looking for a quality processing lab. I have been dealing
with both Central Camera and Helix for my 35mm camera equipments.
Their prices are a bit higher than mail order but their staff are
very helpful. I just wonder if there are other places out there with 
better prices. Please post or E-mail me your response. Thank you in
advance for your help.
From: rune@cimsand.UUCP (Rune Riisnaes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Nikon AF viewfinder clarity
Date: 15 Sep 92 11:19:27 GMT
Organization: Cimage A.S, Sandvika, Norway.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

bill@sarek.Rational.COM (Bill Arnett) writes:
: I owned aa Nikon FE for many years with good results.  A few years ago I decided
: to go the AutoFocus route and bought an N2020.  Not such good results.  Much to
: my chagrin, it was only yesterday that I discovered what may have been my
: problem:  the view thru the 2020's finder is much dimmer than the FE's.   All
: those years with the FE lead me to a WYSIWYG attitude; applying that to the 2020
: lead me to think that many potential shots were going to be dull and washed out.
: I think this lead me to reject many shots that I would not have using my FE.
: 
: Does this make sense?  What can be done about it?  Are the finders in Nikon's
: newer AF cameras (esp 8008s) any better?

Don't know about the 2020, but my 8008s/801s has a significantly brighter
finder than my FE originally had.  Now I use a Beattie focusing screen
on the FE, which makes it as bright as the 8008s.

-- 
Rune Riisnaes    E-mail: rune@cimage.no, rune@cimage.com, rune@cimsand.uucp
                 Cimage A.S,  Skytterdalen 6,  N-1300 Sandvika,  Norway.
                 Phone: (47-2) 54 90 40   Fax: (47-2) 54 58 40
From: paulf@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu (Paul Frankenstein, Bs.D.)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: ILFORD XP2
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:47:17 GMT
Reply-To: paulf@oolong.hacks.arizona.edu
Distribution: world,local
Organization: x=x^2+C
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-a4

In article <n097ct@ofa123.fidonet.org>, Jim.Chapman@f706.n278.z1.fidonet.org writes...
>I'm about to delve into Ilford XP2--this is the weird B&W film that uses
>color dyes, and requires C41 processing.  Does anybody have any
>experience, wisdom, folklore about this stuff?
> 
> 
>--- QM v1.00

I've used it and it isn't a bad film. The prints that come of the color 
machine have a slight cast to them, but the negs print up just fine with
B+W development. Nice speed (400), with nice grain and sharpness. Don't know
how it stands up against conventional B+W films. 

-----
paulf@hacks.arizona.edu
paulf%hacks.decnet@telcom.arizona.edu
To sit in solitude, to think in solitude with only the music of the stream and
the cedar to break the flow of silence, here lies the value of wilderness.
						-- John Muir
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markm@wri.com
Subject: Re: EMERGENCY help needed before 5 pm 9-7-92
Reply-To: markm@wri.com
Organization: Wolfram Research, Inc.
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 15:21:49 GMT

In article <18ffqfINNjvg@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu  
(Brian Segal) writes:
> 
> Shooting fireworks is really quite straightforward..here are some tips:

[stuff deleted]
 
> (2) FILM - this depends on end use..if you want prints only shoot color
> neg film..if you want slides (and projected images of fire works are very
> impressive on the big screen) use transparency film..with the added plus that
> you can get reversal prints made at some point, or get the slides duped onto
> print film..
[more good tips deleted]

I would highly recommend shooting slide film over prints.  When the slides are  
processed, you'll get a nice black sky.  When you take the prints to the local  
one-hour place they'll come back with a horribly muddy-brown sky.  This is due  
to the print-machine deciding that you must have goofed on the exposure so it  
will try and fix it for you.  AARRRGGGGHHHH!!!

Besides, I think a good ciba print from a brilliant slide is orders of  
magnitude better than a regular print from a negative.  But that's just my  
personal opinion.

As for composition, I've found it helps to have a tree or perhaps a  
recognizable building in the foreground.  It helps give a sense of scale to the  
bursts and makes the image better all around.  Of course this isn't always  
possible.

Finally, I'll reiterate the need for a wide-angle lens.  Unless you're *really*  
far away from the fireworks, you'll need something on the order of 24-28mm.  I  
never realized just how big the bursts were until I tried to photograph them  
with a 50mm lens!

Hope this helps.

--Mark
From: mpc@biosys.apldbio.COM (Morgan Conrad)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 1 day photo trips from San Jose, CA
Summary: 4 places to visit in 1 day
Date: 4 Sep 92 21:43:52 GMT
Reply-To: mpc@apldbio.com (Morgan Conrad)
Organization: Applied Biosystems Inc, Foster City, CA

Following up to bjs@uts.amdahl.com (Barry Sherman)'s reply to
Gary Snow's inquiry (on behalf of a friend) (whew!):

>>I have identified two potential locations to visit.  The first is to
>>go north along the coast to Muir Woods and Point Reyes and whatever else is
>>time permiting.

>Personally, I find Muir Woods to be quite boring photographically.

I don't know about boring, but I have found it very difficult to
get good "deep in the redwood forest" pictures.  It took a lot
of practice and wasted rolls of film to get good results.  Maybe 
it's just me, but it's both a technical *and* an artistic challenge.

>Point Reyes is a mixed bag for me.  To date I've not found a lot
>of wonderful spots, photographically, except for McClure's Beach.

The lakes near the far southern tip are also nice.  But not great.

>One-two hours drive further north from Point Reyes is Salt Point state park.
>This features some really interesting rock formations at the beaches.  Great
>twisted, eroded sandstone that some have called a "lunarscape".  Be sure to
>check out Gerstle Cove.

Salt Point, on a nice day, is well worth it!  Be sure to check out
Ft. Ross State Park too, and the town (SeaView?) about 2 miles inland.

>Between Santa Cruz and San Francisco are some interesting locations. ...
>Some interesting photos have been made at the town of Pescadero, just a
>couple of miles from the water.

I *really* like the Pescadero / San Mateo Coast area.  So much, that
I bought the company, er... just moved there.

Here's a consensus plan that actually makes sense, and offers
a variety of scenery.
1. Get to Mt. Hamilton for the sunrise.
2. Morning in Big Basin - redwoods nicer than Muir Woods,
and less of a drive.
3. Late afternoon around Pescadero / San Gregorio
4. Sunset at some beach (I'd suggest Grey Whale Cove)
or Pigeon Point lighthouse.

Two final points
1. I've completely forgotten the original poster, and hope that
Gary or somebody will please forward these ramblings.
2. The unknown original poster is free to visit me if I'm around!


Morgan Conrad              Cthulu for President!
Applied Biosystems
mpc@apldbio.com            Why settle for
415-570-6667               the lesser evil?
From: CCGM@MUSICM.MCGILL.CA (CCGM)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: RE: reciprocity info? (KODAK Info #)
Date: 8 Sep 92 13:38:10 GMT
Organization: McGill University Systems Inc (MUSIC/SP)

In article <1992Sep8.110917.24249@news.media.mit.edu> wave@media.mit.edu (Michael B. Johnson) writes:
>Does anyone know where I would get the reciprocity info for Kodak's
>Ektar 25, 100, and 1000 film?
>
>Thanks.

   Although you can get it in a number of places, a useful resource
to have is Kodak's info number: 1-800-242-2424; the nice person on
the other end of the line can at a minimum list the places that you
can find it, or even just tell you the information. I've used it and
can recommend it (it's free!! :->*

Glen Matthews
MUSIC Product Group, McGill University
550 Sherbrooke St. West, Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3A 3C5
Phone: (514) 398-4477 Fax: (514) 398-4488 BitNet: CCGM@MCGILLM
Internet: ccgm@musicm.mcgill.ca   Anonymous FTP: vm.mpg.mcgill.ca
From: M18709@mwvm.mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Cokin Filters:  Any good?
Date: 14 Sep 92 17:10:00 GMT
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102

I have been thinking about getting some graduated filters (Neutral
Density, and perhaps some color ones).  I plan on getting the square
kind (4"x4").
 
I have been thinking about the Cokin filters.  How are they optically.
Is there a great loss of resolution?  Do they scratch easily?  How is
the polarizer?  Do they make a circular polarizer?  Should I get the
hood?
 
I do not think I would buy a plastic filter that does something
optically (close-up, etc).  I just want to add some "color" to my
pictures.
 
Tiffen glass filters are much more expensive.  I also worry
about the possibility of breakage compared to a plastic filter.  The
Tiffen fit in the Cokin P-holder.  The Tiffen are close to $100 each.
(costs more then my 50mm)
 
Should I buy the Cokins or is this a mistake after buying only Nikon
glass?  How do plastic gel filters compare with glass ones? (I assume
glass would be better)  Is the differences worth it for photographers
on a budget?
 
 
=====================================================================
"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out, and
remove all doubt" --Abraham Lincoln (1862)
=======================================================================
Andrew R. Lacher      | Center for Advanced Aviation System Development
m18709@mwvm.mitre.org | The MITRE Corporation
(703) 883-7182        | McLean Virginia 22102
From: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: For sale: Olympus XA2 + flash $60
Date: 5 Sep 92 22:50:47 GMT
Organization: UCSB Physics Department


Olympus XA2 for sale

 o with A11 electronic flash
 o in good condition (some paint has come off the back)
 o with battery for the camera but no manual
 o great pocket camera
 o 35mm f3.5 scale focusing lens
 o auto exposure
 o has self timer and battery check

$60 + shipping


                      +-----------------------------------+                    
                      |         Charles R. Meyer          |                    
                      |                                   |                    
                      | Internet: crmeyer@voodoo.ucsb.edu |                    
                      | Bitnet:   crmeyer@voodoo          |                    
                      | HEPnet:   voodoo::crmeyer         |                    
                      +-----------------------------------+
From: desler@vxdesy.desy.de
Subject: NIKON F3 T   Questions
Organization: (DESY, Hamburg, Germany)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 13:02:24 GMT

Hi There!

  I'm wondering if anybody can answer me a few questions about the 
NIKON F3 T. 

  I already own a F3 HP and now I'm looking for a second camera. But
I can't help it, the only one I can think about is the F3 (don't need
AF or 1/10000 sec..)!

  Questions:
  
  1. I've heard that the 'T' stands for Titanium, so the F3 T should be
     even more robust than the F3. Which parts are made of this material?

  2. What about the finder? Is the HP (high point) the standard? (As I
     wear glasses this was one big reason for me to buy the F3, I could 
     see the whole frame for the first time...). 

  3. Are there any other features that are different from the F3?

  4. Is there a difference between the black and the silver body (don't
     tell me I has a different color; the black one seems to be more 
     expensive, why?)?

  5. Do they make the F3 T anymore? It looks like used ones are getting
     more expensive every day.  

  Hope to hear from you, thanks in advance

                                       Kai
===========================

Kai Desler

desler@vxdesy.desy.de
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Vivitar 636AF vs. Canon 430EZ
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:49:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Sep8.164912.7135
Distribution: usa
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Sep5.084252.26390@sys.sweden.dg.com> robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.205045.16255@clark.edu>, gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
>> 
>> I have it, and although its not a really sharp lens, its definately
>> worth the price.
>
>If more sharpness is needed, I think that the extra money for the
>Canon EF 100-300/4.5-5.6 USM lens is well worth it.

Yeah, I have that one too.  At the time I bought the EF 75-300, there was
no such thing as an EF 100-300/4.5-5.6 USM.  But when it did finally come
out, I snatched one right up.

Gary

-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: cmcdowel@en.ecn.purdue.edu (Charles E. McDowell)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Hasselblad/Medium Format Digest
Date: 14 Sep 92 04:37:42 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

If you would be interested in being added to the mailing list for the
Hasselblad / Medium Format Digest, a semi-moderated digest dedicated to
discussion about medium format equipment and techniques, send your mail
address to:  cmcdowel@ecn.purdue.edu.   Please put your address in the body
of the letter, don't rely on the header.

[ Charles McDowell                   Purdue University - Lafayette, Indiana ]
[ cmcdowel@ecn.purdue.edu            School of Electrical Engineering       ]
From: SteveWall@aol.com (Steve Wall)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Kodak CD picture and LDs
Date: 14 Sep 92 16:47:01 GMT
Organization: Only weekdays, 9-5

> 
> An interesting thing to note here (Mike Axman correct me if I'm wrong,
> please) is that this number (100) is not a firm one.  I was talking to
> a guy locally who does Photo CD (i.e. works at a place commercially taking
> your negs and puttting them on PhotoCD) and he said the amount of images
> varies depending on the film you use (i.e. how much compression they
> get).  Since I tend to shoot mainly Ektar 25 and Ektar 1000 (pushed 2 stops)
> he said he thought I'd probably get on the order of 150 of my pushed 1000
> negatives on a disk.  I've been procrastinating on going out there, so
> I can't back that up first hand, but I thought it was interesting, and it
> does make sense (assuming variable compression ratios for different 
> emulsions).
> 
Actually, I think you may have the effect of film speed on compressibility
backwards.  With higher speed films the PhotoCD scanner will resolve more
grain 'noise'.  This grain noise will make the file less compressible.

Another factor to consider is the number of sessions you write to the CD.
Each session carries a fairly large storage overhead.  According
to Dale labs, if you do an entire CD in one session you can fit about
108 images.  However, if you send the CD in for a new session with each
roll of film you shoot, you may only fit 96-100.

Steve Wall
From: luong@naxos.inria.fr (Quang-Tuan Luong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Cibachrome: mysterious color shift.
Keywords: color printing
Date: 8 Sep 92 14:16:33 GMT
Reply-To: luong@sophia.inria.fr
Organization: Inria Sofia Antipolis

Hi,

The problem I had is that with filters such as (YMC):
20 0 0
20 20 0
20 27 0
20 35 0
15 40 0
20 45 0
the prints were *invariably* too green with very little change from
each other, whereas with the filters:
15 50 0
15 80 0
they were a lot too magenta. I cannot understand the discontinuity.

I wonder if somebody knows whether a failure in temperature control
would result in a significant color shift using the new cibachrome
chemistry. I suspect that with low temperature the shift be towards
green, and with high temperature the shift be towards red, but it is
just a guess. Any experience ?

Thanks in advance for any information.

Tuan.
From: neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Rechargeable batteries
Date: 8 Sep 92 00:14:11 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.


I'm looking for high-capacity AA batteries for my 430EZ flash.  I haven't
been able to find the Excel brand that pop photo recommended, and none
of the other brands seem to list the milliamp hour rating.

Does anyone know which of the following brands have the highest capacity:
Millenium, GE, Panasonic, and that price-club brand I can't recall...???

Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.  

I've also been assuming the 1.25v rechargeables will work fine in the
430EZ; is this a reasonable assumption?

--Neil

-- 
Neil Williams: neilw@informix.com

Seen on my last trip on United: "If you are seated in an exit row 
and can not (sic) read this card... please notify a crew member."
Newsgroups: rec.photo