HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: lee@ace.npac.syr.edu (Lee C. Brink)
Subject: Re: [F] RFUGF - What equipment to use?
In-reply-to: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu's message of Sat, 12 Dec 1992 07:18:05 GMT
Organization: Northeast Parallel Architectures Center - Syracuse, NY
	<Bz4xM6.Gzz@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 12:19:51 EST

>>>>> On Sat, 12 Dec 1992 07:18:05 GMT, ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) said:

Frank> On a purely theoretical basis (i.e. no practical experience) I'd suggest
Frank> the evenflow brand, if you have a choice.  I can't find them in any of
Frank> my local fish shops, but would like to see them working.  I think that
Frank> they would help provide a more consistent flow of water to each area,
Frank> rather than (with most UGF plates) most of the water comming out right
Frank> at the point where the lift tubes are.  Of course, if you do this, and
Frank> wouldn't mind doing a food coloring test before you put any fish in the
Frank> tank (yes, and an additional 100% water change), I'd like to hear if the
Frank> evenflow plate(s) work the way they are advertised to.


I'd like to thank the people who have provided input to my question
both in posts and email.  Now for the second part of this RFUGF
question: power heads or canister.

One person in email recommended using a Fluval for the actual "motor"
behind the RFUGF.  Many other people use power heads.  Which would be
better & why?

    Lee

--
+---------------------------+----------------------------------------------+
| Lee C Brink	             Office Support Co-ordinator at NPAC	   |
| lee@nova.npac.syr.edu      Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY 13244-4100  |
|			     315-443-1722				   |
| "Stimpy, move your butt.  It's a higher mammal" - The Ren & Stimpy show  |
+---------------------------+----------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: bklaas@hfglobe.intel.com (Brian Klaas)
Subject: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Organization: Intel Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 23:15:46 GMT

What is the best way to rid a tank of snails?  After a recent fish purchase,
we have about 10+ small snails in a 20gal tank.  

Thanks in advance for any help...  Reply to bklaas@sedona.intel.com or
post to this newsgroup.

-- 
 Brian Klaas                 bklaas@sedona.intel.com
 Intel, Corp.                bklaas@hfglobe.intel.com
 5000 W. Chandler Blvd.
 Chandler, AZ  85226
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Igor Livshits <igorl@uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: (m)hair algae removal
X-Xxdate: Thu, 17 Dec 92 20:26:04 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d15
Organization: NCSA
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 20:28:37 GMT
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A7563E7CB90214C6@spiff.ncsa.uiuc.edu>

I have had the same problem in the first few months of my reef setup.  I
tried snail and tangs and angels to no avail.  BUT, I got a few black
spiny urchins.  My algae problem disappeared within a month (I don't have
a single strand) and the urchins tripled in size.  I sold them back at a
profit and got a small one just to keep things in check.  As icing, they
are neat animals for your reef anyway.

It's a win-win situation.

Cheers, igor


_____
NCSA-UIUC,  e:igorl@uiuc.edu,  p:(217) 244-5606
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: Neil.Frank@launchpad.unc.edu (Neil Frank)
Subject: Re: Blue-green 'algae' are DEAD!
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 20:17:07 GMT

The reported successes of erithromycin killing blue-green algae has been
shared by others.  The effect or lack of effect of this antibiotic on
bio-filtration, however, could be debated.  Since aquatic plants have a preference
for ammonia, a well planted tank may compensate for a reduced population
of nitro-bacteria.  The excess of ammonia might also be the reason for the
explosive growth in the plants.
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9458 sci.aquaria:1769
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Blue-green 'algae' are DEAD!
Date: 15 Dec 92 07:36:29 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

In article <1992Dec13.201707.10770@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Neil.Frank@launchpad.unc.edu (Neil Frank) writes:
> The reported successes of erithromycin killing blue-green algae has been
> shared by others.  The effect or lack of effect of this antibiotic on
> bio-filtration, however, could be debated.

I think another big reason for the discrepency of results could be that since
(I've heard) the Maracyn company doesn't date their drugs, some people could be
using "dead" drugs.

				-Matt
From: TECHVSH@admin.uh.edu (Vickie S. Hyland)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Beginner seeking lots of advice
Date: 12 Dec 1992 20:42:59 GMT
Organization: University of Houston Central Computing Services
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: uhad4.admin.uh.edu
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.20

Hi, fellow netters.  This is my first post, I'm new to fish and have 
dozens of questions.  But today I had a sick fish that I need advice on.

My setup is a 29G Oceanic aquarium, freshwater, UGF, AquaClear 301 
Powerhead (540L.P.H.), temperature 76, Aquari-Lux 20W aquarium light 
which is on 10-12 hours per day.  The tank cycled for 3 weeks before the
water tested good for fish.  I have 14 smallish plants, most are
prospering and putting out new growth. (The ones that don't will not be
replaced.)  And one decorative castle with several cutouts.

Last Tuesday evening I got my first fish, 4 Marble Angels about 1 inch,
and 2 corys (what kind? spotted with black stripes over eyes and dorsal
fin) about 2 inches.  Until this morning all was great, fish eating and
swimming well.  One angel didn't eat this morning, didn't swim if he
could help it, tried to stay either at the top of the tank or in a plant
where he could anchor himself among the leaves, and often was in a
mouth-upward position.  He died before lunch.  The other angels were
around him a couple times, so I don't think they were avoiding him.  Any
ideas?  I'm feeding Tetra Ruby flakes, is this good?  Do I need to
replace this fish with another to make even pairs?   I'd rather not. 
The other five fish seem as active and hungry as ever.

I'm doing a 4 gallon water change today and cleaning the gravel.  All my 
water tests are still good, except nitrates are slightly high now. 
Still in the "good for fish" range though.  Is this "new tank syndrome"? 
How slowly should I add new fish?  I tested the water from the tap to
see what it is like.  I add Zip drops, and sodium biophosphate to reduce
pH from 8.5 to 7.0, but the ammonia and nitrite tests for this water are
high.  Will the bacteria in the tank correct the tap water? 

I also seem to have algae, there is a reddish-brown "stuff" growing on 
the castle, some of the plants, and the front glass.  What should I do
for that?  Or is it good?

Enough for now, this is getting long, but send along any other advice 
and information, I have lots more questions.  Especially on how to do 
water changes, what equipment to use to vacuum gravel, plants, and 
algae.

Thanks in advance.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Vickie Hyland                        Phone:    (713) 743-1465             |
|Central Computing Services           Internet: HYLAND@UH.EDU              |
|University of Houston                FAX:      (713) 743-1542             |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bbs.mirage@bbs.tsoft.net (Jerry Lee)
Subject: Re: UGF/RUGF and nitrates
Organization: The TSoft BBS and Public Access Unix, +1 415 969 8238
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 07:12:17 GMT

wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:

> In article <1992Dec11.164851.12927@bsu-ucs>, 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu wri
> > > 	There has been a lot of talk recently about RUGF vs UGF etc.  In one
> > > of the articles someone mentioned that after a while so much crud builds 
> > > under the UGF that the UGF basically becomes a nitrate generator.
> > > 
> 
> Well, all the talk about UGF/RUGF got me thinking about what was under my UGF
> plate.  I have had the bubble powered UGF going for a little over a year now
> in my 20 gal freshwater tank.  My nitrates were exceeding 140 ppm easilly, 
> probably way beyond that since water changes didnt seem to do anything.
> I finally dug out the credit card and bought 2 penguin 660s with the reverse
> flow attachments.  I decided that I would break down the tank, clean under th
> UGF before I dared to fire up the reverse flow.  I am sure a 40 gallon tank
> 
> -- 
> Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
> School of Electrical Engineering  fundamentals while I'm asking a fundamental
> Purdue University                 question....then fine, I'll pretend to be o


After reading some of these messages with nitrates in and around 
80-140ppm, don't you guys ever bother to do deep gravel cleanings?  I 
mean, the UGF can only do so much!  I'v had a 20 and a 40 gallon tank 
going for about 4 years now on the same bubbler and a single powerhead in 
each tank with 0ppm nitrates;  All due to gravel cleanings!  I think it's 
better to just attach a siphon and suck all that crap out of the gravel 
before it gets stuck under the filter where you'll never get it out 
unless you blast it out.  Just cut off the bottom of a plastic water 
bottle and attach the siphon to the other end and suck away.. the rocks 
get cleaned and the gunk gets sucked away. :)

A gravel cleaning about once a month is adequate and only takes about 15 
minutes of your time.  It's certainly better than spending alot of money 
for Reverse flow equipment.

--
Jerry Lee (bbs.mirage@bbs.tsoft.net)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: josh@meth.osf.org (Joshua Goldman)
Subject: Support for tank (trying to avoid 27 gallon 1/4" high aquarium on floor)
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:59:56 GMT

I just got a new hex aquarium for my office.  It's 27 gallons (I think, I forget
the exact figure).  It's a little bigger than the file cabinet that I want
to keep it on.  So I cut out a 3/4" plywood sheet the same size and shape as
the tank.  Will that be enough support for the corners that extend past the
edge of the file cabinet or should I find a bigger stand?

13 5/8" width of file cabinet

10 3/8" side of hexagon

21" diagnal of tank

24" height of tank


Would I be better off having corners sticking out 3 inches

  |   __________   |
  |  /          \  |
  | /            \ |
  |/              \|
  /                \
 /                  \|
 \                  /|
  \                / |
  |\              /|3"
  | \            / |
  |  \__________/  |


or entire sides sticking out about 1.5 inches?
      __________   
 ----/          \------
    /            \ 
   /              \
  /                \
 /                  \
 \                  /
  \                / 
   \              /
 ___\            /____
     \_________/  ____ 1 1/2"


Remember, there will be a 3/4" plywood sheet under the tank either way.
(Don't panic, the tanks empty now.)

Thanks

Any hardy fresh water fish recommendations that will do well with so little
horizontal swimming room?  (Tank will also have a fair amount of natural light,
Northern exposure.)
-- 
Joshua Goldman josh@osf.org 617-621-8857
Open Software Foundation
11 Cambridge Center
Cambridge, MA 02142
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: (M)(F) Info about R/O filters?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 23:07:27 GMT

In article <17843@pitt.UUCP> sherman@michael.nmr.upmc.edu (Sherman Uitzetter) writes:
>
>
>	I want to get a reverse osmosis filter can someone who
>has gone through all the research send me (or post) some info
>on prices/quality of some of these filters?  Also, I would
>like to know how they work.  I know what osmosis is - the
>seperation of water into hydrogen and oxygen; is reverse
>osmosis the combining of hydrogen and oxygen into water?
>Seems like the ideal way to create perfectly clean water.
>

Well, it appears you do not know what osmosis is <G>.  Osmosis
is defined as "the tendancy of a solvent to pass through 
a semipermiable membrane into a solution of  higher conentration
so as to equalize concentrations on both sides of the membrane."
Basically if you have a bunch of dissolved solids on one side and
pure water on the other the water will move across the membrane
(which the solids cannot pass through) to decrease the 
concentration.

So that seems like the wrong way to make pure water, right?
Well, that is why it's called Reverse osmosis - basically the
pressure in your water line (or a dedicated pump in the better/
industrial units) is used to force water across that membrane
-against- the concentration gradient.  Essentially an ultrafine
mechanical filter that is so fine that it removes even metal 
ions, etc.
 
As for a specific recommendation, I 100% recommend you contact
Spectrapure at 1-800-685-2783.  I have purchsed from them and
find they have the best service as well as the best prices
(that I could find) and high quality products.  Make sure you
mention my name and the Internet - I'm trying to get the owner,
who helped me install a 100% maintenance free water system, onto 
the net and onto Compuserve - I'm sure he'd love to hear from 
other *.aquaria types!

Cheers,
paul


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: efang@pomona.claremont.edu
Subject: (M)[M] Quarantine  Invertebrates. Should I?
Organization: Pomona College
Date: 13 Dec 92 03:14:22 PST


Hi, all.

Am I supposed to quarantine my invertebrates? If so, should I bother to rig the
lighting to the high levels neede for long term success? Also should it be for
the standard 4-6 weeks? I mean when I buy them, of course.

Eric
EFANG@POMONA.CLAREMONT.EDU

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: (M)(F) Info about R/O filters?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: rec
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 01:04:26 GMT

In article <1992Dec17.183318.16571@vax5.cit.cornell.edu> mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:
>> 100% recommend you contact
>> Spectrapure at 1-800-685-2783.  I have purchsed from them and
>> find they have the best service as well as the best prices
>> (that I could find) and high quality products.  Make sure you
>> mention my name and the Internet - I'm trying to get the owner,
>> who helped me install a 100% maintenance free water system, onto 
>> the net and onto Compuserve - I'm sure he'd love to hear from 
>> other *.aquaria types!
>
>As an alternative, here's my story: I bought my TFC membrane 20g/day RO unit
>from a Chicago discus breeder named Joe Gargas.  I paid $350, plus COD charges
>($20?), which was much cheaper than anything else I could find at the
>time.  I installed it under my sink, with a spigot on top.  I've had it for a
>year and use it (mixed with tapwater) for all my water changes.  Gargas' phone
>number is (708)331-1335.  
>
I hate to break the bad news to you, but Spectrapure sells 50gpd units for
cheaper than that.  Don't fret, I'm sure you got a good unit though!


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student - Surgery Rotation		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9400 alt.aquaria:6138
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?
Date: 11 Dec 92 21:55:24 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

>   Surprisingly enough a wet dry filter cand be made for way less money
> than a mechanical filter.  there have been many posts on how to do this
> in the past.  A little hunting around in a hardware store and a 10 - 15 gal
> fish tank will built a WD as good as anything that can be bought.  The
> mechanical filtration gets done by a pre-filter.  But I also use a 
> magnum 350 to get the water crystal clear.  If you are going marine a 
> WD is the way to go, basically because once it is established it there is very
> low maintenance and any changes such as swapping filter cartiges on a 
> mechanical filter will not afffect water chemistry.

It seems to me that the drip plate should be designed with some sort of
specific plan for even distribution, and to resist clogging.  I've never seen
anyone tell any good (or bad.  I've just never heard a...) way of designing a
drip-plate.  Also, what about a rotating spray-bar?  Sounds pretty good in
theory...does it work?  And if anyone has them, I'd surely appreciate haveing
some DIY plans for a W/D E-mails to me.  :)   I'm so cheap!  

			-Matt
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
Subject: ballasts (was Re: newsgroups)
Organization: This space for rent.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:03:34 GMT

How did this get the subject: newsgroups?

booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
>pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:
>
>    I've used the cheap (<$10) electronic ballast lights for years without
>    problems.
>
>Again, I don't have any experience with the higher cost and presumably
>higher quality electronic ballasts, just with this one brand.  It might
>just be a shitty fixture and I had the bad luck to run into it. 

Brand names, guys, I want brand names!   Good and bad ones, please.
Where have you found a $10 electronic ballast?  Cheapest ones around
here seem to be $20 and up.
-- 
   Be a light unto yourself    || Jan Isley ...!gatech!bagend!jan
Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha || jan@bagend.uucp (404)434-1335
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Subject: Wal-Mart Fish
Followup-To: Re: [F] New tank recommendations!
Organization: BNR
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 20:54:38 GMT


In article <1992Dec18.150456.24608@brtph560.bnr.ca>, bhaskar@bnr.ca (Shaji
Bhaskar) wrote:
> 
> In article <8520006@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com>, pauls@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Paul Stafford) writes:
> |>  Hi folks
> |> 
.
.
.
> days are hard to keep, although my Walmart rams are going strong at 4
> months now with only 1 casualty out of 5.  Also, rams are really
> bottom dwellers in my book, though they do make occasional forays into
> the middle of the tank.


C'mon now Shaji.  You didn't really buy fish from WallMart?!!



> Shaji.
> -- 
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 



==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
Subject: Plecos
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 92 16:33:34 GMT


I forgot to ask when I posted about the pleco food.  Are plecos detritovorous?
(Im not sure if thats spelled right)  I was once told they were but Im not
so sure if thats correct or not.  Thanks.

-- 
Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
School of Electrical Engineering  fundamentals while I'm asking a fundamental
Purdue University                 question....then fine, I'll pretend to be one"
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9521 alt.aquaria:6226
From: james@hcxio.hdw.csd.harris.com (James Partin)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Date: 16 Dec 1992 16:30:37 GMT
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division, Ft. Lauderdale FL
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hcxio.hdw.csd.harris.com

     The disagreement about using clorox to disinfect tanks and kill snails 
is probably due to a misunderstanding. I am certain that the people who 
advocate using Clorox remove the fish first. Then they declorinate the    
water before replacing the fish. The fish are not exposed to the clorox.

   I used a clown loach to control my snail problem. Before I added the
clown loach to the tank, I was removing 20 -to 40 snails daily with no
results. The clown loach ate all visible snails within a short time.
The tank had an undergravel filter and i would see some snails in the
lift tubes that the loach could not get. Later I removed the undergravel
 filter change the tank to live plants. Underneath the filter plate was
hundreds off snail eggs and baby snails. Apparently I had a regular 
loach food factory and dispenser going althought the snails were never 
on the tank walls.
  If 	 decide to raisw clown loaches again I might start a snail
infestation to feed them. :)
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [M] Marine tank temptation.
Date: 16 Dec 92 00:28:57 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com


OK, every time I go into my local fish store, I find myself spending more time  
looking at marine fish than freshwater fish. I want to start a marine tank but  
don't have a clue on how to go about it. Things I need to know are..

1) What size tank is a good starting point?
2) What equipment is needed (I mean everything)?
2a) What does some of this equipment do? I hear the names but don't know  
    anything about them. Things like protein skimmers and stuff.
3) How much money are we talking about to get it started?
4) What is maintenance like with a marine tank?

Before I take the plunge (no pun intended) into the salt water side of the  
hobby, I want to know what I am getting myself into. Any help is appreciated.
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9589 alt.aquaria:6270
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: read/new
Date: 18 Dec 92 09:48:55 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

Recently, I saw that someone had posted a price for a "good" electronic balast
in the neighborhood of $150.   !!$150??   This doesn't include fixtures,
reflectors, hood, bulbs, nothin'!  Just the dang balast!

Does this mean that to get a decent light set-up w/one bulb and a no-cost
home-made-outa-scrap-stuff hood would run in the neighborhood of $200+?????

That's insane!?!?!  Can a ballast REALLY be WORTH (emphasis here) $150?

				-Matt
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria