HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dormont@spot.Colorado.EDU (DORMONT WILLIAM  M)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Datsun 280Z V8 Conversion
Date: 14 Oct 92 00:05:34 GMT
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder

I have a friend who is thinking about putting a Chevy 350 V8 in his 1977 280 Z.
Does anyone have any info or experience with this conversion?  Please post
answers or email me.

				Thanks!

					Dan L.
					c/o dormont@spot.colorado.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bolhuijo@uther.calvin.edu (John Bolhuis)
Subject: Re: Synthetic oil cost and convenience
Organization: Calvin College
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 19:41:12 GMT

Just another $.02...
I had a 1980 dodge colt that ran Amsoil synthetic since the break-in
period was over.  We changed the oil once a year or every 25,000
miles.  The filter was changed at 6 month intervals.  The engine ran
flawlessly for 165,000 miles until the car was inadvertantly destroyed
by a marauding van, thus ending our "synthetic oil durability test."
  Even up to the very end, the engine still did not burn much oil,
even though it was driven mercilessly. (cool! try to squawk 'em in 2nd
gear again!!)
  Oil analyses proved that the oil could survive lengthy drain
intervals.
  I remain a firm believer in synthetics.


--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
|  - John Bolhuis -   |  "That's the ugliest mouse I've ever seen. |
| bolhuijo@           |   And he's beating up on our cheese!"      |
|_  uther.calvin.edu _|_  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _  _ |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Anti-seize compound for radiator hoses?
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 23:53:08 GMT

	My question is: is there such a thing? What do you guys use when you change
your radiator hoses to keep them from sticking to the connections? My service manual
recomends using some on the hoses, but nobody seems to know about this thing!
Please help me if you know anything about it.

Christos.
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:13914 rec.autos:23841
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Lifting a JEEP Wrangler?
Date: 12 Oct 92 23:35:29 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: q1hl@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Nameless CS Student)

>>On jeeps with the spring below the diff, it is possible to move it
>>above.
>
>PLEASE SAY WHERE I CAN GET THIS KIT!  I've been searching *forever*
>for a spring mount conversion to put my springs ABOVE the axel, but
>most off-road shops just look at me like I've got 2 heads or
>something....  I know they exist, but where?  (I have an '88 Jeep
>Wrangler/YJ)  Please send MAIL, as the newsgroups sometimes scroll
>between reads.

Well, I looked too, and didn't see any kits.  So one begins
to wonder why, it must be because some of the problems just
aren't addressable by bolting things around.

There is however a market in differential housings shortened to Jeep 
length, which were originally designed to be used spring-on-top.

>The drive shafts
>(front and rear) are both telescoping,

Large lifts can exceed the angle beyond which a U-joint will
not function properly.

and the steering shouldn't
>require more than a simple adjustment to re-center the wheels- the
>Jeep steering seems *designed* for high-lift use:
>Chris.

The parts suppliers seem to think that if you lift your Jeep
more than 4", you will need a different pitman arm. 

Dan Hepner
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (FA) 
Subject: Re: Oh dear oh dear... (Was Re: Carb Questions)
Reply-To: louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu (Louise Penberthy) 
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology 
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 16:49:17 GMT

In article <ldlfs5INNj92@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy) writes:
>So, Louise, you know you that part about feeling stupid and cursing?

Well, that too, but what I meant was feeling that the _car_ is
stupid, and cursing the car.  Omnis, bless their hearts, are
pretty stupid.  :-)

-- Louise Penberthy

Louise Penberthy                |  "A student came to me with a desire to know
College of Computing/ Georgia   |   the time, and I told her how to make a 
Tech/ Atlanta, GA 30332         |   watch."
louise@pravda.cc.gatech.edu     |        -- Chris, NEXP:Northwest Passages
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Why Platinum plugs might not be a good idea...
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 16:32:40 GMT

In article <1992Oct07.011946.34016@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu>, seanr@lobo.rmhs.colorado.edu (Sean Reifschneider) writes:
|> As I was complaining about my Bosch platinum plugs today a friend of 
|> mind suggested a possible reason that they might not work well on
|> some cars.
|> 
|> If a car has an exhaust gas recirculation system, and you have platinum
|> plugs, then the platinum element in the plug works with exhaust gas
|> just like your Cat converter.  So, you get water forming on the
|> plug then you get ignition.  Now, the question is, is this going
|> to be a problem?

You're stretching the concept a little too much!   Even if water was
to form due to "catalytic" action the cylinder temperature would not
allow it to condense out.

Also in your related post about the Splitfire plugs.  The change in
the O2 sensor can completely mask the improvements in emission levels
and performance you see.   I would be more interested in seeing the
same data before and after the plugs where changed ( with both 
Platinum and Splitfires).  New properly gapped ANYplugs will always
give better initial performance with worn old OTHERplugs.

Sorry, your experience does not qualify as a scientific experiment:-)

Mark
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:14026 rec.autos.vw:5704
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: over charging battery
Date: 14 Oct 92 20:47:47 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Oct14.034258.15175@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Brian.E.Hannon@dartmouth.edu (Brian E. Hannon) writes:
>In article <1992Oct12.062637.14627@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu>
>shinh@nmr-z.mgh.harvard.edu (Shinjiro Hirose) writes:
>
>> So, does anyone know
>> if my voltage regulator can be stuck in the "on" position?
>> The one time I've dealt with voltage regulators, they didn't
>> let enough charge through.  Can they fail in the opposite manner?
>
>Well, it is not really an on/off thing.  A voltage regulator simply
>dissipates power stemming from voltage over a specified limit.  It
>limits the voltage all the time exactly the same, and the battery
>charges up to this voltage, unless the regulator has failed.

 The regulators used in automotive alternators are not at all similar to
the linear voltage regulators used in low power electronics. The latter
reduce voltage by dissipating power. This is impractical for automotive
uses where 30-150A outputs are desired. 

 The regulator holds the output voltage constant by regulating the field
current of the alternator. This current is passed to the rotor via the 
brushes (because typically the field current is less than the output
current, it is better to run it through the sliding contacts and let the
output be hard wired). At lower shaft speeds, the regulator passes more
field current to the rotor and at high speeds, less; increased current
demand also means more field current. The output voltage may be sensed
at the case terminal or at a remote location. Good grounding helps 
ensure that the regulated voltage is the same at the alternator, the
battery posts and the dash.

 The pass transistor can fail "on", in which case the field will get a
current which is constant. This produces an output voltage which is
proportional to shaft RPM, except that the battery will try to hold it
down to 12V first by charging, then overcharging and boiling. The pass
transistor or the brushes can also fail "open" resulting in no field
current and no output. Another common failure is in the rectifier bridge;
the diodes can become leaky, discharging the battery back through the
stator with the engine off; this is to be suspected if the battery tends
to run down if not run every few days. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: danapple@vicor.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tires : Slicks vs. Treaded: Help Please
Date: 8 Oct 92 22:53:17 GMT


Note:
I know nothing about tires.  I know nothing about friction.  I know
nothing about desks.  I'm just this dude with some free time and an
imagination.  This whole message might be filled with untruth.  It is
not guaranteed.  Take with a bunch of salt, but don't flame.  Just
correct me if I'm wrong.

> bassek@lesti.hut.fi (Basse Kankkonen) writes:
> In <BvpsB1.Gp6@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cjp53999@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Cory James Padfi
> eld) writes:
> 
> It ocurred to me that the formula of friction is F=u*m*g
> (u=constant of friction,m=mass,g=acc. 9.81m/s^2)
> This means that the traction is not depending on the area.
> BUT the constant u is depending on the temperature, and a tire with less
> area heats up faster and it will decrease the lifetime of the tire and the 
> grip of course.
> (Thats why cars don't use bicycle wheels!!!)

True, but tire "grip" isn't just friction.  

(I'm reaching here...)

"Grip" is also caused by the tire surface conforming to the road
surface at a macroscopic level.  A race tire will hold stones in the
rubber.  All the way around the circumference, even where the
component of *g* holding the stone onto the tire is 0.  Friction does
not account for this.  The stone should fall back onto the ground if
only friction was occuring.

There is a big difference between this surface conformation and
friction, I think.  When you slide your hand along the top of your
desk, you'd have a hard time pushing it.  But push on the side of the
desk, and all of a sudden you can apply enough force to push the desk.
This is not friction.

The tire conforms such that it can push on the sides of the
irregularities in the pavement.

I've heard that "soft" tires are better in rain than "hard" tires.  I
believe this is because the *u* you mention decreases drastically, but
the force exerted due to conformation remains high.  Those of you who
could move your desks with your hand against the top should now try
spilling water on it and trying again.

There certainly may be other factors coming into play that I know
nothing about.

> Basse

Daniel I. Applebaum  |  danapple@vicor.com  |  1986 Celica Supra "NVR DNF"
From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RFD: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 14 Oct 92 16:03:31 MST
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY

X-NEWS: corral news.announce.newgroups: 641
Relay-Version: VMS News - V6.0-3 14/03/90 VAX/VMS V5.5; site news.uwyo.edu
From: peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Subaru 4WD Lock-up epilogue
Date: 8 Oct 92 10:29:19 GMT
Reply-To: peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

Okay...Uncle, Uncle, Uncle.

I went home, drove down the street in 4WD, it wound up,
I put it in reverse, backed up and WAH-LAH, it came out
quite easily.

Thanks to those who had advise,.. and those that didn't?...
well,... hope you enjoyed it.

Rod Peterson
From: howard.smith@spacebbs.com (Howard Smith) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Hydride storage tanks for hydrogen-electric car.
Date: 10 Oct 92 23:50:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: SPACE BBS - Menlo Park, CA - 10 Lines + 4gB - 415-323-4193
Reply-To: howard.smith@spacebbs.com (Howard Smith) 

American Hydrogen Association
Silicon Valley Chapter
1401 Point Claire Court
Sunnyvale, CA 94087
Dept: Hydrogen-Electric Car Project
                                                      Page 1 of 3


The  Silicon Valley chapter of the American Hydrogen  Association
(AHA-SV)  has designed a hydrogen fueled, electric powered,  com-
muter automobile which is to have a 1000 mile range on one charge
of  hydrogen, and proposes to build such a car for all the  world
to  see.  However,  there seems to a shortage  of  the  essential
hydrides (and fabricators of these  hydrides) needed to store the
hydrogen  in the vehicle. The following, therefore, is a call  to
someone or to some organization that can manufacture or knows  of
a  possible  manufacturer of these hydrides in quantities of  600
lbs. (263 kg) or more.

The process is outlined in the body of the document.

Please contact John Gotthold or Karl Darr, 1-408-235-1177, if you
are interested or have information.

There are three hundred hydrides that have been discovered in the
last twenty years. Unfortunately most of them have drawbacks. The
highest  density hydride is pure magnesium. It will hold  10%  by
weight  of hydrogen. Only problem is that you have to heat it  to
800 degrees F. to get the hydrogen out.

The hydride we will use is the ferrous/titanium/manganese hydride
which has the great advantage of working at room temperature. Its
draw backs are that you have to be able to melt iron to make  it,
which  is  expensive, and its is heavy, being  approximately  1/2
iron.

The  hydride will be packed in tanks made from 4 in dia.  6061-T6
aluminum  tube with a central 1 in dia. heating tube, and  capped
with  1/2  in  thick end caps provided with  metal  sieve  micron
filters  and  manifold connection fittings. Each tank  will  hold
approximately  150#  of ferrous/titanium/manganese  hydride,  and
four  tanks are required per vehicle. The tanks will be  supplied
by AHA-SV
(continued on page 2)
---
 . SLMR 2.1a . Back Up My Hard Drive? I Can't Find The Reverse Switch!
                                                               
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: excessive hydrocarbon emission
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1992 00:24:12 GMT

In article <1992Oct8.131827.11696@cbnewsj.cb.att.com>, btwomey@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (william.tw0mey) writes:
|> 
|> Here in NJ, my car failed inspection because of excessive hydrocarbon
|> emissions.  Thats unburned fuel, no?  If not, what?  What causes excessive
|> it?
|> 
|> Its an 86 Isuzu Imark, 1.5l carburetted, 89K miles.  (sound familiar?
|> A few months ago when I posted, I had bucking/no power problems.  It
|> was the mixture control solenoid that was flakey)
|> 
|> The figure was 870, the limit was 250, I don't know the scale.  The car
|> does not seem to consuming oil.  The plugs were dark and not dry-dry.  They
|> are less than 5000 miles old.  Is this an uh-oh?  Leaking valve guides
|> or something like that?  Wires and air filter have less than 10000 miles.
|> 
|> Could grungy valves be a culprit?  Is dribbling water into the intake
|> a good idea, to solve the problem or just for maintenance?
|> Would burning a different fuel, or using an "emission helping" additive
|> help?

Yes, HC is unburned fuel.  The measurement is ppm (parts-per-million).  
If you passed the carbon-dioxide (CO) part of the test, I would check out your
ignition system and timing.  Any misfire or incorrect timing will boost HC
emissions, but not necessarily affect the CO.  

Bad plugs, crossfiring ignition wires, and weak coil can cause these problems.
Burned (not dirty) valves could cuase excessive HC, but then the car would run
pretty bad.

Since your car is an '86, it should have some form of closed-loop control,
even if it is carbureated.  The post-1981 emissions standards are almost 
impossible to meet over a 50K mile period without it.  It could also be
that your oxygen sensor (OX) may be shot, as well.  A bad OX sensor should
result in some surging while cruising and uneven idle behavior.

I'd start with the ignition system and timing first.  The rest of the stuff
is more expensive, anyway.

Mark
From: damong@wpi.WPI.EDU (Damon Francis Gentile)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TURBO COUPE'S OUT THERE?
Date: 8 Oct 1992 10:25:24 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu
Keywords: COUPE

In article <1992Oct7.145028.23938@cbnews.cb.att.com> njcs@cbnews.cb.att.com (jose.a.matos) writes:
>I own a 1988 TURBO COUPE for about six months now, and think it's the best
>machine ever made to race down the Jersey roadways.  
>
>I'm writing this article to see how many people out there are interested in
>forming a semi-club over the email system. 


How about a 'Mid Engine Italian Targa' newsgroup ?

Damon

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
damong@wpi.wpi.edu |    1974 1/2 Fiat X1/9          | Hey Florindoooooo !
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aroe@jarthur.claremont.edu (Napkin Ball Warrior)
Subject: Re: Radials on '60s era cars?
Organization: Harvey Mudd College, Claremont, CA 91711
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 01:51:45 GMT

In article <1992Oct08.161847.26172@i88.isc.com> dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
>In article <1992Oct7.214440.4916@clipper.ingr.com> greeven@clipper.ingr.com (John Greeven) writes:
>>many '60s era cars with radials I've also heard that the suspensions
>>were not designed for radials and the combination can be bad or
>>even dangerous.  At the very least I would only consider putting on 
>>4 new radials and not mixing radial and bias ply tires, right?

My '68 Chevelle ran fine on radials with the stock suspension, but I went
out to get new shocks later on anyway.

>        My parents just bought a '67 that had bias ply tires on it.
>Mom couldn't believe how bad the thing handled, since she had also been
>driving a similar vintage car with radials.

Awww, come on!  It wasn't THAT bad, at least from what I remembered, bias
ply just had a tendency to break loose sooner.  It's all from the rigidity
of the tire and the fact that most stock bias-ply passenger tires are
skinnier than new radials. (78 series tires were originally on my car!
Eeewwwwwww)

>        However, I really miss that high pitched squeal the bias plys
>make when you patch out (when I first got it, the '68 sounded like the
>sound effects from Mad Max)!

You can get similar noises from radials. ;) Granted, the radials grabbed
sooner, but oh well.  

>        My '68 now rides on 235/70R15s in front, and 255/70R15s in 
>the rear; BFG Radial T/As which I've been very pleased with.

Oh, that reminds me.  If you have a small vintage machine, check to make
sure you have proper clearance if you decide to put wide "meats" on your car.
Some cars I've seen were designed for something like 185s or 195s (FR
series? I forget how that damn system worked) and you end up rubbing a lot
if you decide to upgrade to a larger size while getting the new tires.

Happy driving!

--> Andy Roe
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: sgrr@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (steven.g.richardson)
Subject: Lumina APV Plugs
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 20:14:43 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: spark plugs, 1990 Lumina APV

Anyone figure out how to change the three
spark plugs on the far side of the block?
The shop manual says to remove the air filter
assembly, which I did, and which at least
allowed me to reach them, but I was unable
to pull the boots off any of the three plugs.

It seems that there is a plastic fitting
that surrounds the boot on these three plugs,
and the manual says to turn the boot before
pulling it off, but no luck.

Is it true that the engine can be rotated forward
to give better access?  If so, how?

	Thanks in advance,

	Steve Richardson
	att!hocpa!sgr
From: rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jon D. Rodder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tires : Slicks vs. Treaded: Help Please
Date: 14 Oct 92 19:24:09 GMT
Article-I.D.: ut-emx.81670
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <552.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>
> Some drivers prefer treaded tires over slicks whenever there's not a
>crippling performance penalty.  Slicks typically have a very narrow
>breakaway curve - that is, they suddenly "let go" without warning,
>forcing the driver to operate well under the tire's capability.  Treaded
>tires typically are much more forgiving.

I've never heard this description before...  my experience with slicks
(Goodyear Eagles, R029 compound, bias ply of course) was that they let
go very smoothly and slowly.  I much prefer this to the "snap" you get
when radials let loose.  But I've never heard of there being any
significant difference in the way the tires let loose for treaded tires
versus slick for the same construction.

> Back when we ran Monzilla we ran slicks on tight courses and treaded
>tires on open courses.  At 3400 pounds, 400-odd hp, and full competition
>suspension, driving on slicks was like herding an elephant on roller

Were these slicks radial or bias ply?  Was the suspension set up for
radial or bias ply?  Were you running the proper compound and width?

-- 
--=< Jon D. Rodder ----- rodder@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu >=-- 
    \    IRC-Op at tramp.cc.utexas.edu (Rodder)   /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/PIECE OF JUNK!  / 
      \        79 Rx-7 - 12A/Holley 4bbl        / 
       \________67 Camaro RS - 350/4spd________/ 
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Weak windshield-wiper motor...
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 10:07:08 -0500

 JN> Thinking about it, it seems to me that either (a) the voltage at the
 JN> motor itself is low, or (b) the motor is "weak".  (I don't have the
 JN> slightest idea whether or not there is such a thing as a "weak"
 JN> motor, by the way).  I'm going to check the voltage (when I get home),
 JN> but since I'm ready to initiate that particular project, thought I
 JN> would see if anyone has any thoughts.

One other possibility is that the wiper arm shafts have become gummed up or
corroded and are about to seize. You can check this by attempting to move the
arms back and forth. They should move freely within a small arc, until the play
in the linkage is taken up.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: daniels@lmsbv2.tamu.edu (Lee M. Daniels)
Subject: Re: The hand brake is not tightened.
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Reply-To: daniels@lmsbvx.tamu.edu
Organization: Council of Crystallographic Triumphs
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 18:49:00 GMT

In article <1992Oct13.001148.8669@walter.bellcore.com>, hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes...
=Is there any way to tighten the hand brake?   My car is '86 mazda 323.

If the shoes really do still have plenty of pad on them, and the handbrake 
adjustment (the nut just under the handbrake lever) has been adjusted, you 
probably need to try the adjusters inside the brake drum.  Look it up in 
your 323 manual. 

Lee M. Daniels  ||  Laboratory for Molecular Structure and Bonding, Texas A&M
           daniels@lmsbvx.tamu.edu  ||  DANIELS@TAMLMSB.BITNET
From: ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How to loosen the brake assembly when changing pads?
Date: 7 Oct 92 18:31:46 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, California

Whenever I changed pads, I always loose the brake assembly, by opening
the bleeding valve, and push the piston, by hand. Ofcourse, then I 
have to do the bleeding.

Are there any disadvantages with that??
From: ronk@hpgrla.gr.hp.com (Ron King)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 17:34:00 GMT
Subject: Re: Any harm if I put too much engine oil?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Greeley, CO