HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hartman@dewey.udel.edu (Nancy Hartman)
Subject: Re: Parents,Children,& Pets (was "Re:Life Spans)
Organization: University of Delaware, Newark
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 02:26:30 GMT

In article <1JFgqB1w165w@oneb2.almanac.bc.ca> chelsea@oneb2.almanac.bc.ca writes:
>hi, I'me 10 years old and I have had a lot pets.(right now I have a
>rat and fish.)  In my house we have a rule:you have to take care of your
>own pets or you won't have him any more. (sort of.)see,if I'me at a 
>friends or don't have any money then sure, she'll feed,water and take
>my rat,Mickey,out for exercise.  but if I just keep forgeting or am to
>lazy to feed him then my mom will give him away.(only if it goes on for a 
>long time.)I think that it is a good rule.-if i can't take care of him i 
>can't have him.-

Hi Chelsea,

It's wonderful that you are so attentive to your pets.  And it sounds
like your Mom is very good about encouraging you and helping out.
I hope that you continue to give Mickey a good home, remember he depends
on you, you are his entire life, and he trusts on you to take care of
him for the rest of his life.  Just think how badly you would feel if
your Mom and Dad decided that they were bored with you, and sent you away.
Mickey would feel the same way, so keep up the good work!

And if for some reason you find that you can no longer take care of him
like you should, at least take the time to help your Mom find him another
little girl who will love him just like you are doing now.  He's given
you a lot of joy, and deserves that much.  But, I doubt that that will
happen, sounds to me like Mickey really got lucky the day you walked
in to the pet store!!

- Nancy






-- 
Nancy Hartman					CIS graduate student
hartman@udel.edu				U. of Delaware
        President and founder, Delaware Valley Ferret Club
                      Owner of Percy & Bree
From: marty@atmos.ogi.edu (Marty Shearer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Introducing a new bunny to an older bunny
Date: 2 Sep 92 16:33:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: ogicse.42302
Distribution: usa
Organization: Oregon Graduate Institute, Atmospheric Sciences, Beaverton, OR

I've read suggestions in the past in this newsgroup about introducing
rabbits of different ages to each other, but never thought it would
be my problem.  I have a 9 month old female bunny, whose friend (another
female) from 6 weeks old died 2 weeks ago. (Another sad story.)  We 
would like to get her a companion as I've read that rabbits like to
have company, but I
have also read that they will sometimes kill young rabbits that
are put into their territory as they grow older.  Any suggestions
on how to handle this?  Is it better for the new bunny to be older,
the same sex or opposite?  Any suggestions would be helpful.

Back to the sad story:  We hired a neighbor boy (who also owns 2
rabbits) to bunny sit for a week.  He was told not to take the 
bunnies out of the hutch, as a neighbor has acquired a German shepard
for the summer, and for some reason the bunnies want to go in that
yard.  We had some hot weather, so he decided to take the bunnies
out and put them on the grass in the grazing cage, thinking they'd
be cooler there.  Unfortunately, he went off and left them there!
When he returned as you might expect, the shade had moved and one
poor bunny had already died of heat exhaustion.  Moral: never,
never omit the smallest detail in giving instructions to young
care giver!  The boy was devastated - it was, after all, what he
did for his own rabbits - my children were devastated,  I had 
discussed the care with him (but had left out that detail as it
seemed obvious to me).  Too late for the bunny of course.  I hope
this helps some one else avoid the same fate.

Now we want to try to get a new friend for the bunny we have left -
any experience will be useful.   Marty

Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: pdsmith.mitre.org (Pat Smith)
Subject: Re: Bitter Apple
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 14:16:47 GMT

In article <jensen.715461494@graphite10>, jensen@rtsg.mot.com (James D. Jensen) writes:
> 
> Does Bitter Apple smell to humans? and if so how strong is it? 
> Does anyone know if it is helpful in stopping Chinchillas from
> chewing on things, such as wood trim and electrical cords?
> 
> I'd like to find something that stops them from chewing when 
> they are out of their cages, without smelling up the whole place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
I don't recall it having an odor but it did stain a maple kitchen set.  It 
claims not to stain but it did slightly.  Some folks say it works great but
my dog didn't mind it and kept on chewing the furniture.  We just had to wait
out puppyhood chewing and try to divert him to more suitable chew toys.
From: gsouth@genome.wi.edu (Genome South user)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: ferret bedding
Keywords: Cedar chips
Date: 1 Sep 92 12:53:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Whitehead Institute for Biomedical Research

The stuff about the cedar chips and respiratory problems in ferrets
is true, up to a point.  We've found that ours wheezes if we put only
fresh (out of the package) chips in her cage.  But she has no
problems if we only put a few new chips and lots of old chips, or
use chips that have been aired out for a few days.
From: bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Baby Corn Snakes
Date: 3 Sep 92 04:38:53 GMT
Organization: Not an Organization

In article <1992Aug31.145548.28774@ncrcae.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>,
tmason@ccscola.Columbia.NCR.COM (Tim Mason) writes:
>I got a couple of hatchling Corn Snakes (Elaphe gutatta) two weeks ago.
>Neither will eat.  I got them from two different sources.  Both claimed they
>were feeding on pinkies. Well... not for me.  I have them in a temp. 
>gradient from 88 F to 76 F.  
>
>When should I attempt force-feeding?  Should I try to catch some anoles to
>try?
>
>If you've had similar experiences (and solved them), please tell me what you
>did.  I've force fed a snake successfully before, but it was much bigger than
>these young corns.  I feel it would be a last resort with snakes this small.
>-- 
>---------------------------
>Tim Mason
>Tim.Mason@ccscola.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Ahhhhhh..........  Don't feed the snake Anoles.  Send them (the anoles) to me.
I love the little suckers.
From: tedr@athena.cs.uga.edu (Ted Kalivoda)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Indigo snakes and filters
Date: 26 Aug 92 13:08:21 GMT
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens

In article <1992Aug24.071948.10704@u.washington.edu> tracer@milton.u.washington.edu (David Tracer) writes:
>In article <BtGDG2.IvG.1@cs.cmu.edu> tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler) writes:

>Indigos
>usually do quite well as captives, but due to their endangered status,
>their price has gone way up & trade in them has gone way down.  There are
>a few captive breeders of them in the US though.
>Although they're not ratsnakes, their primary prey are rodents which they
>don't constrict, but rather, usually swallow alive while pressing them
>down with a coil against the ground ( a good case for feeding captive
>Indigos & Cribos pre-killed rodents).
>Hope this info's useful.
>-David

>P.S.- I've always wanted a pet Indigo snake

Let's find some breeders who have them and see what they are asking

Ted
From: bagus@netcom.com (Mark E. Ruedy)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: iguanas and savannahs together
Date: 1 Sep 92 04:33:51 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

I think when you consider keeping different species together in the
same cage, you must consider *their* relationship.  Even a little
turtle looks small and harmless to us, but in the real world every-
thing fits into the "eat or be eaten" scheme.  And each animal has
a different personality.

Unless you're going to monitor all activity in the cage, 24hrs a day,
don't do it.

-mark
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis)
Subject: Sailfin update and price question
Organization: Mississippi State University
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 02:53:06 GMT

Well, the sailfin is ok.  I have come to the conclusion that 
I own the LAZIEST reptile in the world.  LAter in the evening a 
sudden noise startled him and his eye just popped open.
I have bought some new vitamins to pep him up a little


Now for the snake question.  A guy asked me how much I wanted for m,y 
eastern hognose (about 1.5 ' long) I am looking to sell him because
I don't want to try to catch frogs in the middle of January.  That
is not an easy task.  Off the top of my head I told him $30.
HE agreed to it, but I wanna know if that is a fair price?
I do not want to gyp the guy.  What do hognoses run?

Thanks
Steve

--
===============================================================================
Steve Hollis--Your friendly neighborhood zoology major
srh3@ra.msstate.edu
===============================================================================
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: UV light subsistitutes (help)
Date: 26 Aug 92 19:03:15 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

In article <bzandrew.01pn@bbs1984.chi.il.us> bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew) writes:
>In article <16849CE41.S863508@UMSLVMA.UMSL.EDU>, KAREN@UMSLVMA.UMSL.EDU writes:
>>I have a large iguana that needed proper lighting so I contacted the
>>St. Louis Zoo. I was told to use a blacklight white. I was able to
>>purchase the light and fixture at a lighting store for about $25.00.
>>Vitalites are not as good as a blacklight white.

>Does anyone confirm this??!!

I have an aquarium book, Martin Moe's _Marine Aquarium Reference Manual_
I believe, that graphs the output vs wavelength of most flour bulbs on the
market.  None showed any output in the UV ranges except for Metal
Halides (5500K).  Maybe the author did not have sufficient data to graph that
low on the spectrum for flour bulbs, but they showed nothing whereas
the MH showed a little UV.  

Note:  Blacklights were not among the bulbs graphed, Vitalites, Ultras, Tritons,
cool whites, etc were.  

Hope this helps some. 

Jon

Jon
From: bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Chameleon question
Date: 26 Aug 92 04:12:52 GMT
Organization: Not an Organization

In article <adwright.714327861@vincent1.iastate.edu>, adwright@iastate.edu
writes:
>In <bzandrew.01nh@bbs1984.chi.il.us> bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
w
>rites:
>
>>Aren't most old world chameleons endangered or worse by now?
>
>I used to live in South Africa (Pretoria area) and during a two year span, my 
>wife found perhaps five chamelons. The natives in that area at least would
kill 
>them on sight. We would take any we found and stick them through the chain-
>link fence of a nearby private game reserve. 
>
>We read a book called "Myths and Legends of Southern Africa". Most of the
cultur
>es have a garden of Eden-like creation story, but many times the chamelon is 
>the one who messed things up between Man and God in these stories. The
chamelon
>plays a role similar to the serpant that tempted Eve. I think this factor is
>a significant part in the demise of the chamelon, at least in populated areas.
>
>
>Allen
Cool story!
From: wyoung@doggie.enet.dec.com (Warren Ray Young)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Five-lined skink question
Date: 26 Aug 92 13:15:19 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


>You can order the flies and fly culturing food from Carolina
>Biological Supply Company (CABISCO).  Sorry, don't have the address on
>my at the moment - the catalog's at home.  They're based in NC but
>also have a warehouse in Oregon - you order from which ever is closer
>to you.
>Keith Rogers
>krogers@javelin.sim.es.com

Carolina Biological Supply
	
	US - 800-334-5551
	North Carolina - 800-632-1231
	West Coast - 800-547-1733

	I order toads from them to feed my Hognose. Make sure
	you get a catalog - there's lots of interesting stuff
	in there including Bufo Marinus (giant toads!). Note - 
	I have no connection with Carolina except as a customer. 

					Warren Young


	wyoung@doggie.enet.dec.com
	Warren Ray Young	DEC Mid-Atlantic Southern States
        Lead Operator           Regional Data Center
                                Landover, MD
	Digital doesn't agree with me, which explains a lot.
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Mites!
Date: 29 Aug 92 19:02:09 GMT
Organization: Bohemian Inebriation Association
Originator: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu



 Help! I'm sure this is a Frequently Asked Question, but somewhere my baby
snake picked up some nasty bloodsucking mites. I'm fogging the house and
her cage, but what do I do to get the ones that are already on her off?
And should I put a mite-kill device (like for birds) in her cage? 
Suggestions would be deeply appreciated!
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: debra@solbourne.com (Debra Frances)
Subject: Re: Mites!
Organization: Solbourne Computer, Inc.
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 15:09:12 GMT

"Fogging" the house? What does this mean?  Be carefull you don't kill the snake
as well....
                                 DEBRA
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: transporting snakes across country...
From: crchakford@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu
Date: 1 Sep 92 09:22:43 -0500
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

In article <920901032306_71162.3470_CHK259-4@CompuServe.COM>,
 71162.3470@CompuServe.COM ("Peter P. Donohue") writes:
>     I am going to need to transport my snakes across the country in a
> few weeks.  I called up American Airlines and they said they only carry
> certain animals (mostly the cute, fuzzy types), of which snakes weren't
> on the list.  I am now running through other options for transporting
> them.  I'd be interested in hearing of any comments on these options. 
> Please email replies (I don't have a regular way of reading Usenet
> articles).
>    2) sneaking them on as carry-on luggage.  Positive: they stay with
> me, no questions about care.  negatives: may get caught, have to go
> through x-ray

        Although I doubt it, you might find yourself arrested, but you
will certainly miss your plane sitting in some security room.

>    3) packing them well and checking them in the hold.  Positive: go
> with me, no timing problems.  Negative: who knows what goes on in
> luggage compartment (may go through scanners, may get crushed, may not
> be temperature controlled, etc.)

        No hold of any airline I can think of is guranteed to be 
pressurized, much less temperature controlled.  I'd have to advise
STRONGLY against this.

>    4) carry them with me when I drive accross the country.  Positive: no
> charges at all.  Negative: I'm planning on taking about 2 weeks - that's
> a long time for them to be in transit.  Temp may vary greatly, etc.
> 
>    Well, any ideas on which is the best one to use?  The flight would be
> this weekend, or the drive a couple of weeks after that.
> 
> 					Pete

        Bite the Bullet, go air freight.  It's certainly the safest,
least unnerving way to cary your pets.

                        Craig.
From: dave@aficom.ocunix.on.ca (Dave Hunter)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Excessive quoting promotes brain death in humans
Summary: I really hate excessive quotes...
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 13:10:00 -0400
Reply-To: dave@aficom.ocunix.on.ca (Dave Hunter)
Distribution: world
Organization: AFI Communications - Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Don't you just hate having to wade through four or five screens of 
quoted text to arrive at four lines of original material?
 
Thanks for your consideration in the future.
From: gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: UV light subsistitutes (help)
Date: 27 Aug 92 17:12:27 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

That was a very interesting article.  It said that "mushroom type"
self ballasted mercury lamps were good.  What exactly is a "mushroom
type?"  I wonder if the Mercury Vapor lamps sold at K-Mart (~$45 I think)
are the same things.

Jon

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: seedman@iastate.edu (John D Turnipseed)
Subject: Re: UV light subsistitutes (help)
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:38:43 GMT


	There was a paper given at this years International Herpetological 
Symposium about the output of several types of flourescent tubes.  I will not 
have any of the paperwork from the Symposium until next summer, but I did 
audio tape the presentation.  I will try to get some of the bulb manufacturer's
names.  

	The paper covered several types of bulbs, including black lights and 
"vita-lights".  The main thing I learned from the graphs is that black lights
produce light in only a narrow band of wavelengths.  The "vita-lights" produce 
a fuller spectrum of light with peaks in the right areas.  

				IMHO, I'll stick to "Vita-Lites" 
				until I see graphs with an output 
				thats peaked in the right places.

BTW... that seemed to be the authors conclusion as well.


				-=- Seedman
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: : UV light subsistitutes (help)
From: S863508@UMSLVMA.UMSL.EDU
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 17:59:01 GMT
Organization: UM ST. LOUIS

A person I talk to frequently at the reptile house at the zoo told me
that in order for the vitalite to do any good the animal has to be within 12
inches of the bulb. With blb they can be a couple feet away. My vet also
confirmed this information.
From: wrfisher@cats.ucsc.edu (William Robert Fisher)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: transporting snakes across country...
Date: 1 Sep 92 23:29:21 GMT
Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz
NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu


>I'm sure it isn't as simple as that; I've seen radiographs of snakes
>taken for reasons other than euthanasia.  Maybe the level of xray
>is too high in airport machines?  If the xray is a reasonable one,
>the airport security might not have problems recognizing a snake in
>your bag, anyway.

While I think I would use air fright.  However, why not take the snakes
to the airport in your bag.  Go to rest room, and put them in a pocket
or the like.  Go through the metel detector, NOT wearing anything metel,
then put the snakes back in your bag.

Of course if your caught, you'll have to choose between your flight
or your snakes.

Bill
From: bzandrew@bbs1984.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Indigo snakes and filters
Date: 26 Aug 92 04:22:13 GMT
Organization: Not an Organization

In article <66646@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt6441c@prism.gatech.EDU (Jon Edwards )
writes:
>In article <BtGDG2.IvG.1@cs.cmu.edu> tmohler+@cs.cmu.edu (Tim Mohler) writes:
>>
>>Perhaps I could set up a bowl with an aquarium filter somehow?
>>
>
>No aquarium filter, especially that size, will keep the water clean enough
>after a lizard "uses" it.  My Sailfin uses his water bowl exclusively.  
>When he gets bigger I will make a *large* terrarium with a big stream running
>crossways, with a large filter system on it, plus aquatic plants and all
>that, but until then I change his water every two days.
>
>>
>>Tim
>
>Jon 
I didn't see the original part of this message.  You would not want to have an
aquarium filtered watered system would you?  My dudes do everything in the
water, including drink.  I feel much beter about changing the water (unless of
course you're talking about 100's of gallons).  
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson)
Subject: beginning turtle keeping
Keywords: need advice on turtles
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 22:18:05 GMT

Hi all!

Valerie Haecky recently posted asking for advice on keeping box turtles.
I'm looking for advice on them also, to pass on to a friend who is eager
to get her first turtle.  I know too little about them to help her
myself.  Heat, lighting, food, possible problems with parasites and
diseases, and even what's a good species for a beginner are all questions
I'm interested in.  

We thank you, and so does the (future) turtle.

April
========================================================================
\ April, posting from my boyfriend's account, often with his knowledge./
/ e-mail replies to viking@iastate.edu with "April" in the first line  \
\ "Well, I don't know where *you're* from, bucko, but in these parts   /
/ BLT stands for 'Bloated Lizard and Toad Sandwich'." --Mark Parisi    \
========================================================================


Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: rjohnson@shell.com (Roy Johnson)
Subject: Fast Food Return
Organization: Houston, TX
Distribution: rec
Date: 28 Aug 92 09:14:33

I don't know if I have good news or bad news.  Maybe both.

The good news is that putting a dead gerbil and my Ball Python in
a paper bag with holes punched in it as the Vosjoli book recommended
worked -- sort of.  This morning, I opened it up, and the gerbil had
been consumed and regurgitated.  Ugh.  I've heard of them throwing
up within a day or so if handled or kept too cool, but all in one
night?

I suspect that temperature was the problem.  I put the bag on the
heated portion of the cage, but it didn't feel as warm as usual this
morning -- it wasn't cold, but I don't know if it was up to the
recommended 85-90 degrees.

Should I be worried about such a quick return, or just try again and
make sure the temperature is good?
--
Roy Johnson, who is not Kibo
Shell Development Company (but speaking for myself)
"There's a big difference between being a lesbian and being a male!"
			-- tabn3@isuvax.iastate.edu (Griffy)
From: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu (Nathan Rollins)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: nervous sailfin
Date: 27 Aug 92 05:55:59 GMT
Organization: Bohemian Inebriation Association
Originator: nathan@charles.ucdavis.edu


 There's a new book out about water dragons and hydrosaurs... the name of
the company escapes me but they are the same people that do the Color Guide
to Corn Snakes and a lot of other good herp books; small white paperback books.
I don't quite remember if the sailfin described in this group was of this sort
of species, but the book mentions that they are very nervous animals... might be
worth a look...

-Otter

P.S. About raising fuzzy things... it's sometimes harder than it looks. My mice
were supremely ungrateful and ate their own babies before I could feed them
to Waldo.. :(