HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: HELP! Engine cuts out on Toyota Corolla! 
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 03:09:57 EST

In article <1992Dec14.160215.8570@bcrka451.bnr.ca> hemi@bnr.ca writes:
>	I'm having a problem with my '86 Toyota Corolla SR-5.
>The first time the problem happened, I was driving at 120Km/hr
>when all of a sudden my engine died on me.  I still had electrical
>power, and could crank the engine, but it wouldn't start.  The
>engine did not sputter or cough when it died.

    Sound most like an ignition problem.  If it had coughed/sputtered,
I'd then guess fuel system.

>	This problem has reoccured a few more times.  Every time,
>I have either been driving faster than 100Km/hr, or standing still.
>Again, after the engine dies, I can crank as much as I want, but the
>car won't start.  However, after 1 hour and 15 to 20 minutes
>later (yes, this exact), I can start the car, and it behaves as
>if nothing had happened.

    I would assume that this problem occurs ONLY when the engine is
hot, right?   If so, I'd say that the electronic ignition box is at
fault. It's obviously a thermal problem.

>	As per Murphy's laws, this "feature" of my car is impossible
>to reproduce in front of or by the mechanic.  

    Always seem to do that, don't they?  8->.

>He had originally
>thought it was a faulty fuel pump, and replaced that, but the problem
>resurfaced two weeks later.
  
  VERY slight chance that it is a vapor-lock problem.  Although, vapor
lock usually only occurs during warm, damp weather.  

>	Got any advice for me?

   As soon as it dies, pull the coil wire and check for spark. No
spark, ya got your problem.

>--
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Disclaimer : The above opinions are my own, and do not
>             necessarily reflect the views of my employer.
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Hemi Thaker     Bell-Northern Research, Ltd        Ph.: (613) 765-2863
>System Level    P.O. Box 3511, Station C           Fax: (613) 763-7241
>Modeling        Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, K1Y 4H7   Email : hemi@bnr.ca


                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  

    

    

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: spl3592@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Scott LaRoche)
Subject: Re: Defogger and A/C compressor question
Organization: Boeing
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 15:43:52 GMT


> A/C compressor cycles quickly when defroster is turned on

I was always under the assumption that it was supposed to come
on, something to do with dehumidifying the air to help aid in
defogging the windows. I know for a fact the last three cars
I've had have all done this.

+---------------------------+----------------------------------+
|Scott LaRoche              | If in doubt, floor it! - Me      |
|Boeing Computer Services   | Disclaimer - my opinions not my  |
|root@enif.ca.boeing.com    | employers, they're not this crazy|
+---------------------------+----------------------------------+
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Torque curve question...
Date: 18 Dec 92 19:01:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

  >>>Subject: Torque curve question... >>>Date: 15 Dec 92  12:15:04


LA>>>Well, I've asked this before and never got a response, so I guess
  >>>I'll just keep on asking. Does anybody know where I can get
  >>>plotted torque/rpm curves for American engines?  Any magazine
  >>>sources?

LA>>>... Larry.Mc.Donald, N6ZMB, Fullerton, California!  <cough, cough>

I have no idea other than Hot Rod and CarCraft..
                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                                                                     
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER)
Subject: Re: Timing Belt on Civic Si.
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 16:27:30 GMT

kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone know how much damage will be inflicted if the timing belt breaks
>on an 87 Honda Civic Si while the car is running at speed (55mph)?  I know
>that some cars will have severe damage (Porsche 944's) but others will not.
> 
>Anyone an authority on this issue? 
>
>Kevin 


  When the timing belt breaks, the valves currently open will stay open, and 
  will then have the crap banged out of them as the piston comes to top dead
  center.  This is very bad :)  If you have a manual tranny, you can engage the 
  clutch quickly and reduce the beating the valves and piston`s take, if it's 
  an automatic, it will take you longer to take it out of gear and the damage
  will most likely be greater.  

  My opinion, if the timing belt is showing signs of needing to be replaced, or
  if the car is around that mileage (I don`t know how long the belt should last
  in a Honda, I`ll ask and get back on that one, but 60K sticks in my mind) get 
  it replaced.

              
 >
-- 
Steve Vetter     DISCLAIMER-  The opinions expressed here are not those of
vetter@mtu.edu                my employer,  because I don`t have one yet.  If  
                              you wish for these opinions to be your company's,
Damn it's Cold!!!             or not, send e-mail to :  vetter@mtu.edu
From: greg.roberts@dwarp.sccsi.com (Greg Roberts) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HP-Torque of chevy V-6?
Date: 11 Dec 92 10:00:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Data Warp Premium BBS - Spring/Houston, TX - 713-355-6107
Reply-To: greg.roberts@dwarp.sccsi.com (Greg Roberts) 

SS}    Part of the reasoning I'm asking is that I am looking for a tow
SS}vehicle for a car carrier that has a tire rack and tool box.  Total
SS}weight around 4500 lbs.(including race car).  Is a big V-6 enough to
SS}pull this or do I need a V-8 as some have said.

Key question:  Does the car trailer have brakes?  If not, I would
definitely go with a full-sized p/u.

Background:  I have run a dirt car for the past two seasons, and my
double-axle trailer w/ car & tires was a about the same weight as
yours.

I pulled it with several vehicles.  Horsepower is NOT your major
concern, as my usual tow vehicle was a 72 Chevy LWB p/u with a worn out
250 cid inline six, straight shift.
I also pulled with a SWB 91 Chevy with the 4.3
v-6 & 4 spd auto, a Ford car with 3.8 v-6 & 3 spd auto, and a 3/4 ton
Dodge Ram Dually with Cummins turbo-diesel and 5 spd.

The Dodge did the best job of hauling, as it had tons of power, but
more importantly, it had enough rubber on the road to make use of the
braking capacity.

My old LWB p/u was next.  The motor in this truck is about shot, but it
would still pull hills at safe highway speeds (65 mph), just took a
while to get to that speed.  The LWB made for an easy ride and the
trailer pulled fine.  On braking, the front tires could be made to lock
up on panic stops.

The SWB chevy had adequate power (though you couldn't use ovedrive at
all), but being SWB, was squirrely if you had to make sudden turns or
do hard braking. Being SWB with the hitch close to the body ( and
the rear axle) transferred weight better and was not as prone to skid
the front tires.

The car was really overmatched by the large trailer.  The hitch used
was not load equalizing, and the car nearly dragged the ground.  This
was worsened by the fact that the trailer hitch height was much lower
that the trucks the trailer was made for, letting the trailer run
tongue-down, putting more weight on the back of the car.  Power was
easily adequate, and braking was OK, but handling was poor, as the
front end was very unloaded.

I wouldn't recommend the S-10 for hauling something that large,
particularly if you don't have trailer brakes.  There really just isn't
enough width or weight to make the trailer follow the truck should you
have to perform ememrgency manuevers.  If you keeps your speeds down
and allow plenty of following distance, the power of the 4.3 l v-6 is
more than adequate, but trying to brake during a turn, or trying to
dodge potholes or debris in the road will be rather exciting .
---
 . SLMR 2.1a #796 . Whatdidyousayhere?
                                                                                                                        
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Grand Am heater problem
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 12:43:14 GMT


I've got a co-worker whose 1990 Pontiac Grand Am's heater doesn't work.  
The coolant is fairly fresh, but the heater blows luke-warm air at best.
Since we're in Wisconsin, this isn't acceptable...
`
Does anyone have any suggestions what to check without forking out
major money to a dealer?  Is there a bleed nipple to let air out of the
heater core, can I find the heater core, etc. etc. etc.

Replies by E-mail, please, as I'm going on vacation & won't see any posted
responses.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Don't blame me; I voted for Perot!                hinzd@picard.med.ge.com 
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.             Pherrets are Phun!!!
From: lee@hsh.com (Lee Havemann)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Timing Belt on Civic Si.
Date: 17 Dec 92 13:46:17 GMT
Organization: HSH Associates

In article <1992Dec16.103134.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu>, kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
> Greetings,
> 
> Does anyone know how much damage will be inflicted if the timing belt breaks
> on an 87 Honda Civic Si while the car is running at speed (55mph)?  I know
> that some cars will have severe damage (Porsche 944's) but others will not.
>  
> Anyone an authority on this issue? 
> 
> Kevin 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Kevin Jones                                   KPJONE01@ULKYVX.CT.LOUISVILLE.EDU
> Lab Supervisor                                KPJONE01@ULKYVX.LOUISVILLE.EDU
> Computing and Telecommunications              PHONE:  502-588-6303
> University of Louisville, KY                  FAX:    502-588-0150
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

My brothers car did this, and it bent a valve - this was an 85 Honda CRX...

Rebuilt the engine since we had to take the head off anyway, and had a
wonderful (I'm being sarcastic, if you hadn't noticed :-) time, as they used
line ground bearings, and every one was different. You had to match the
letter stamped on the block to the number stamped on the crank next to each
bearing, which then you looked up on a chart, which translated to a color,
and had to order it that way. Then they charged by the bearing half! One of
the worst engine designs I have ever seen! I have also heard that these cars 
are known for the cranks wearing out of true (journals becoming eggshaped),
forcing you to replace the crank. 

Just my opinion though :-)

-- 

 Lee Havemann, Comp Ops Dir.    HSH Associates      (201) 838-3330 
 Internet: lee@hsh.com    Compuserve: 70410,3507    AOL: HSH Assoc
 "Any opinions expressed are not necessarily those of anyone else, 
  including myself."                     
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimd@fraser.sfu.ca (Jim Davies)
Subject: Re: gm truck status?
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Distribution: rec
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 19:43:01 GMT

"mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com> writes:

> 
>In Message-ID: <lc06095@pro-haven.cts.com>
>shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
> 
>>Have any of you been following the debate about '73-'87 GM trucks?
> 
>Sort of...
> 
>>The thing I don't understand is this:  Why the hooplah now?  These trucks
>>have been out of production for five years now.  Why wasn't said "defect" (if
>>it indeed *IS* a defect) corrected a year or two after production started, in
>>'73?  Why has this consumer group waited almost 20 years to do something?
> 
>As a GM Truck owner myself, my theory is this: Traditionally, trucks have
>not had to meet a lot of the safety standards and requirements that cars
>have had to meet. (rollover, steel door beams, head restraints etc.).
> 
>With the increasing popularity of mini-vans and "sport utilities", there
>has been an increase in the number of former car drivers now driving trucks
>which, as mentioned, are not as safe (wrt. legal requirements) as cars.
> 
>Therefore, consumers groups suddenly find themselves representing a large
>number of non-commercial truck owners who are concerned with safety.
> 
Sounds plausible. Another thing to keep in mind is that Nader discussed
long out of date vehicles in his book, Unsafe at Any Speed. In fact, I
always wondered exactly how the 'vair wound up as thesole villain from
that book. Of course, EVERYONE that comments on safety issues HAS read
the book, right? Anyway, the precedent is there. I guess the solution
to the GM truck problem is simple-- dont become involved in a collision
that may damage your fuel tank ;-)

Jim Davies
swipe it if you must, but dont sideswip it












Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sew@philabs.philips.com (Scott E. Wakeman)
Subject: Mustang GT engine light ..cold?
Originator: sew@condor
Keywords: aggrivating
Reply-To: sew@philabs.philips.com (Scott E. Wakeman)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:02:52 GMT



Have any of you Mustang owners had a problem with the
check engine light(even though there are no problems)?

since the big storm hit the northeast and ushered in the
cold winter a few days past, I've noticed in the morning
my "CHECK ENGINE" light flashes intermittenly. That's
even after I warm the car up for roughly 10 minutes.


    , TIA

-----
scott
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Sudden stalls in 83 Stanz
Date: 15 Dec 92 17:46:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Subject: Sudden stalls in 83 Stanza...Freeway speed...Diagnosis apprecia
  >>>Date: 10 Dec 1992 20:25:36 GMT


SR>>>The alternator was considered; however, if that was the case, wouldn't a
  >>>faulty alternator have drained the battry during the 10 hours it sat
  >>>in the parking garage?  The battery was at 12 volts last night upon
  >>>a cold start.

 Hi,
        The alternator could be OVERCHARGING and heating things up,
        though usually this causes all the dash lights to come on in a
        Nissan...


SR>>>The only reliable symptom so far is that it cuts out ABRUPTLY with a
  >>>hesitation in the throttle, and the tachometer has dropped to zero and
  >>>then zoomed back up to 2000 rpm.  The car is much more successfully driven
  >>>when cold--will last 20 minutes or so.  Once the first stall has
  >>>occurred, it will rarely go more than 2 minutes. (Does this suggest
  >>>something overheating, and needing time to cool?)

   Most likely problem is ignition related, ie: Module,pick-up assembly,
   remote possibility of computer.


SR>>>HELP!!!!  I need to have some idea of where to start, before I take it
  >>>to a rip-off artist (excuse me, professional mechanic).  I have never had
  >>>a mechanic work on this car, other than clutch work.  We have done all
  >>>the required maintenance ourself, and the car has only 57,000 original
  >>>miles on it.  The engine compartment is so cramped, and with so much
  >>>smog material, I'm sure that fixing it might cost as much as exploratory
  >>>surgery!

SR>>>Any net-wisdom (tm) will be greatly appreciated!  Posting or e-mail is fin

SR>>>Sandi
When it is an intermitten problem I don't know of any easy self
checking. It usually winds up being parts replacing till problem
solved...based on the diagnosing between a gas problem and a ignition
problem.

                                                                Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                                                                              
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: faill@gca.com (Peter Faill)
Subject: Re: wheel came off!!!
Summary: my experience
Organization: GCA Corporation
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 21:00:03 GMT

In article <n10d1t@ofa123.fidonet.org>, Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org writes:
>  "Daniel U. Holbrook" <dh3q+@andrew.cmu.edu> sez:
> 
>  >>A friend's father had the right rear wheel of his Volvo come off while
>  >>he was doing about 60 on a 2 lane (each way) divided hiway.  He did a 360,
> 
>    I've owned eight Volvo(e)s and have never had this problem, so 
> I don't think that it can be assumed that lug nut theft is a 
> "Volvo problem."  Beauty ring theft was for a long time, though, 
> since Volvo beauty rings from '64 on back were almost identical 
> to early Ford beauty rings.
> 


Funny you should mention wheels coming off.  I've owned 5 different Volvo's
over the past 8 years and infrequently, the exterior wheels do come off. But,
what happens more frequently is the steering wheel coming off.  Either way,
its not much fun.

Pete
-- 
Peter Faill
GCA Corporation 
Andover, MA
faill@gca.com
From: jbelury@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Josh Belury)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: brakes --  79 Honda Accord
Date: 15 Dec 92 00:59:12 GMT
Reply-To: jbelury@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Josh Belury)
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX
Originator: jbelury@pooh.cc.utexas.edu

The brake light (the idiot light on the insrument panel) in my Honda stays on 
all the time.

The parking brake is kinda feeble, but it was like that before the light
came on.  The brakes seem to work fine.  No noises, and reasonable stopping 
distance.

I don't have much money, and I'm about to drive 1000 miles home for xmas.
I've never worked on brakes, but I'm confident with tools and techy
stuff.

What is the likely problem here indicated by the light?  How should
I troubleshoot it, can I fix it, or can I ignore it and take off on
my trip???

The car is a 79 Honda Accord CVCC 5spd manual.

Thanks,
Dan
dans@tenet.edu (send email here, not to the above address)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dylan@cs.washington.edu (Dylan McNamee)
Subject: Extending engine life--Block heaters (was Re: Oil Priming System)
Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 16:56:47 GMT


It seems that before people start sticking more little gadgets that are
bound to break eventually with the goal of extending engine life, they ought
to investigate simpler solutions.

The first simpler solution I can think of is to add an engine-block heater, 
and to always use it when it's really cold.  Apparently most engine wear
happens during cold starts, and the wear is worse the colder it gets.

I'm about to have one installed in my 93 Probe, even though Seattle hasn't
been really cold yet.

dylan
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy)
Subject: Re: Toyota Corolla problem.
Keywords: electrical problems ?
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 01:04:09 GMT

In article <1gb1i3INNhru@uwm.edu>, dti@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Daniel Robert Mittelstadt) writes:

|>  in a new battery, and it starts right
|> up. Yay. The next  day, however, I'm  driving  at a nice 45 mph, and the 
|> engine dies. Ka-put. Couldn't  jumpstart,  pushstart, etc,etc. If I try
|> to  start it  myself, it does nothing. Doesn't crank or anything,  and  the
|> annoying little buzzing  noise I get when I have  the key in and the key
|> in  the ON position isn't   there,   nor does the radio work  (the lights
|> do,  however). Is this an alternator problem, or a distributor, or? Any
|> ideas?
I think your battery is not being charged and is being drained down completely.
(Is the battery charging light coming on?)
Then when you try to push start the car there is not enough voltage for a spark
so it will not start.

Charge your battery with a friends car for about 
15 minutes. (or use a battery charger.)
Then try starting it with the jumper cables still attached.

Once started, check the voltage at the battery.
If it is 13v or less then your charging system is not working.
A normally charged battery is at 12V.  The charging system puts out
14V normally.

I had a similar problem.  While driving from Pittsburgh to Urbana Champagin in 
my 76 Corolla SR5, the battery charge light came on at Indianapolis.  I switched
off all electrical equipment and barely made it to Champaign.  The battery was
dead though.  Sears, happily trickle charged it for me.  I then drove back to 
pittsburgh without shutting off the engine.  Very close to Pittsburgh, it ran very
rough but I made it home before dark safely.  

Sesh Murthy
From: james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Power Steering Assist
Date: 16 Dec 92 04:42:12 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

In article <BzBry3.48y@eis.calstate.edu> cwilder@eis.calstate.edu (Charlotte Wilder) writes:
>Is there any way to modify the power assist to the steering to suit
>one's needs?  I am looking at a Ford Mustang (93) that I am thinking
>of purchasing and one of the things I'm wondering about is decreasing
>the amount of power assist to the steering, maybe by 1/2 or so... is
>this possible (to do it cheaply? <100 bucks?)?  This may be a major
>consideration in purchasing the car... please email replies.
>


U is gots to change the pressure releif valve settin sos dat it dont pump 
fluid into the ram so hard. Dis could be easy or it could be hard. Seein
as how itsa ford , i is goan say ITS IMPOSSIBLE!!! FORD is the only
company I know that intentionally places their engine askew. Oh BTW 
if the dealer offers you a 45 year 10000000 mile e.s.p. GET it. 
Why dont you buy a base model camaro. At least they are easy to work on
-- 
C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG
 				The above advice is not to be taken seriously!
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 11:20:24 GMT
Subject: Re: Civic drifts
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:

| In article <92349.165500QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
| >Hi everyone, I have a problem with my 82 Civic.  It drifts slowly toword
| >left if I release the steering wheel.  I went to a shop today and had them
| >check up.  They said the alignment (what I thought the problem was) was
| >good.  They also check the brakes.  All four wheels are good without
| >dragging.  After swapping the two front tires, nothing changed.
| >
| >They couldn't figure out the reason. Me either.
| >
| >I need help. Thanks.
| >
| >Ching
|
| Has the car ever been hit? This will do it. Did they check both the front
| _and_ rear wheel alignment? If the brakes aren't dragging, good. Also,
| check the suspension for worn bushings, ball joints, springs, etc.
|
| I once had a weird pulling problem with my '81 Civic. I rotated the tires,
| and immediately it started pulling. Couldn't see anything wrong with the
| tires. Took it in to be aligned. The guy said the alignment was ok, and 
| swore the car must have been hit. I knew it hadn't been. He jury-rigged the
| alignment so it would steer straight.
|
| The next time I rotated the tires, the problem immediately reappeared, only
| in the opposite direction. I took it back in and they realigned it back to 
| specs. 
|
| I came to the conclusion in my case it was the tires. I replaced the tires
| before needing another rotation, and had it aligned again. The problem was
| gone for good. Must have had a belt shift inside one of them or something,
| because it didn't appear till the tires were about half worn.
| 

I have heard this called "radial pull".  Apparently it is due to tyres with
uneven wear.  What was the state of your tyres?

lawrence