HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jwh@fjc.GOV (jwh)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Table Saw Kickback
Keywords: kickback
Date: 11 Sep 92 12:51:04 GMT
Organization: Federal Judicial Center, Washington, D.C.

Recently, I've had a couple of incidents of kickback from my table
saw, and I thought I'd solicit some net.opinions.  Both cuts were
what I would consider fairly small pieces being ripped.  I went
to considerable care to prevent the piece between the blade and
the fence from being kicked back (using a fence-straddling hold
down, push sticks, feather boards, etc.).  Interestingly (perversely?)
the piece that kicked back was the offcut, to the left of the blade
(the rip fence was to the right).  What seemed to happen was that
the cut off piece, which was completely unsupported as the cut
was completed, drifted into the blade and wham-o, you can guess
the rest.

For those of you who haven't been whacked with a kickback, may I
suggest that you stand out of the line of fire; i.e., to one side or
the other of the plane of the blade?  Even a little tiny piece of wood
can make an injury that looks like a small gunshot wound.  And boy
oh boy does it hurt!  (And of course, it was the *one* time I didn't
stand off to the side during a rip!)

What I wanted to ask was could a zero-clearance blade slot cover help?
I was wondering if my aluminum, not-too-flat factory blade slot cover
was contributing to the drift of the off cuts into the blade?  Or
should I raise the blade (typically about 1/4 to 1/2" over the top
of the stock being cut)?

From: rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 21:12:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Finish for Trivets (hot pads)
Organization: HP Fort Collins, Co.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

> Any [trivet] finishing suggestions?

Yes.  Vegetable oil.  This will protect the wood and is safe in case
food comes in contact with it (in case a recipient of a gift from the
church bazaar thought it was a fancy cutting board :-)

Rob
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
Subject: Re: shop tools
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 14:02:06 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.085844.11428@mr.med.ge.com> bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971) writes:
>
>
>I have a very basic shop and want to expand it.  My desire is to be able
>to build furnature however I come up with a list of hundreds of tools
>that would cost in the thousands.  Presently I have a 10" delta table
>saw, a drill press, sears router, and circle saw, plus loads of hand tools.
>What I'm asking for is a priority list as far as what I need next in 
>power tools, a shaper, a band saw, a planer, etc and which is most important
>and most usefull.
>
>Thanks Dennis

It depends what you want to do.  If you want to make bowls, a lathe
would be a good purchase.  If you want to make chairs, a lathe would
help a lot with most stick chairs such as Windsor or Shaker, but a
bandsaw would be a good choice for Chippendale, Queen Anne and the
like.  If you want to make Chippendale chairs, you probably should
have a scroll saw for the backs.  If you want to do fretwork of any
kind, a scroll saw would be a good addition.  If you want to do
casework, a jointer and a planer are very helpful.  If, on the other
hand, you want to build houses, get an air compressor and some of the
tools that work with it.

Barry
From: dlee@pyrnova.mis.pyramid.com (David Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Wish I had Black Lacquer ... !
Keywords: black paint
Date: 13 Sep 92 05:43:51 GMT
Originator: daemon@sword.eng.pyramid.com

I have a chest of drawers that I wanted to convert from a white paint finish
to a high gloss black finish.  Since black lacquer is no longer available,
I need some alternative like acrylic, enamel, wood-based expoxy, or ???

Has anyone tried something that gives a smooth finish from an air driven
spray gun?  Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Electrical problems in FUSE BOX?
Date: 12 Sep 92 05:21:29 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <lb1psmINNj0e@news.bbn.com> rperry@bbn.com (Richard A. Perry) writes:
[for a friend]
>I have a couple of electrical questions for you.  I know that this is a
>woodworking news group but I have learned so much about wiring a workshop
>in this group that I know some people will be able to answer this question?

misc.consumers.house would have been a better bet, but no matter.

>My problem seems that I can't seem to shut off certain lights in my house
>by turning off the circuit breaker.  This would seem like it is a bad

Which breaker?  The main one?  If it's the main, it's possible that
some of the lights are supplied from another panel, or from before
the main breaker.  The former is often present in duplexes or
other multiple dwellings where there are wires crossing from one unit
to another.  Illegal according to current codes.  The latter is also
illegal, if it's truly the main breaker.  There may be more than one
panel.  Is there?

If it's not the main, how are you sure that "the" circuit breaker is the
right one?

>circuit breaker but here is the other problem with it.  If I shut off
>a certain sequence of fuses then I end up losing all of my power in the

"shut off" and "fuses" doesn't make any sense.  Are they really breakers?
Or do you mean "remove the fuses?"

All at once?  Bits at a time?

>house.  This just doesn't seem to make sense to me.

Nor does your description...

We'd love to help, but this description of symptoms is rather confused.
The only way it makes sense to me is if some of the circuits are supplied
power from two more more current interrupters.  Or, you've simply
turned off enough of the current interrupters that you've killed enough
of the circuits that it appears everything went.  I say current interrupters
because it isn't even clear whether there are fuses, breakers or a
combination.  Having circuits supplied from more than one interrupter is
extremely dangerous (except in the case of paired interrupters for 220V).
But I don't think I've interpreted this right.

>I have no idea what is
>going on and I plan on having an electrician come in next week.  I was
>hoping to get some feedback as to what I could look for that would make this
>problem occur.

Without a better description, or being there to analyse the situation,
I suggest you simply rely on the electrician.  There's no way anybody
can diagnose the problems (if there really are any) with this description.
A description of the house's age, type, wiring type, and arrangement and
type of panel[s] would help too.

Making a guess at the level of expertise here, I suggest that you leave
problem repair (if there really are any problems) to the electrician.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help on Router bit selection
Date: 4 Sep 92 18:16:30 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

In article <1992Sep2.170830.683@schbbs.mot.com>, yasin@laser.dev.cdx.mot.com (Yasin) writes:
> I am a novice, interested in purchasing a decent set of
> router bits. I know it depends on the work I am going to
> do and also on the budget. But how about suggesting the
> general purpose bits, I have seen lot of catalogs and
> cannot make my mind that which bit is more useful then the
> others.

Actually, there really are no "general purpose" router bits, in practical
terms. It's best (and cheapest :-) to just buy individual bits *as you
need them*. The sets of "popular" bits may look like they'll save you
money because it's a bulk buy, but if the set contains even one bit that
you never find a practical application for, well, there goes your savings.
--Though that's not to say the boxed sets don't make a welcome gift item!
(Are you listening, Santa?)

If you plan a project that calls for routing a 3/8" groove, pick up a 3/8"
Straight bit. A "Veiner" is a bit often included in sets, and usually this
is a bit you will never use. (I use one, but only because I couldn't find
a Corebox I needed in a pinch :-). It will also help you out to chose bits
as needed because you won't have to constrain your designs to incorporate
the bits in the set; you may end up wracking your brain trying to think
up a project with the sole intention of getting some use out of all those bits!

This is just my opinion, of course. Hey, you might really like the sets better!
If so, just close your eyes and pick one out--they're all probably pretty
"decent."

--danny
-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:53:28 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Which side gets the cleaner cut?

Before cutting the door cut along the line with a sharp knife to sever
the wood fibers about 1/16 or so deep.  This will help prevent
splintering when you saw the door.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Dado blade sizes
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:35:33 GMT

neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus) writes:

>I have the Delta 10" Contractor's table saw,
>and would like to know if anyone w/ a similar
>machine actually uses 10" Dado blades for
>cross cutting.  Many times I would like
>to simply cross-cut a 2" deep x 3/4" wide
>notch in (for example) 4/4 oak.   When buying
>my dado blades, the local wood supply warned
>me not to use more than 6" blades on the 
>contractor's saw, and therefore I cannot
>raise these to the desired 2" height.  

This is kind of confusing to me.  I think of a dado like this:
__________       ________________
|         |_____|                | V depth  
|         <width>		 | 
|	                         |
|________________________________|

(pretty good art, eh?)

So by my math you could never cut a 2 inch deep dado in 4/4 stock.  A 6"
blade would be fine for me (and a lot of people I know) because I never 
use anthing but 4/4 stock, so
the *deepest* I would ever cut is 3/4".  Maybe you are talking about
12/4 stock?  Since you are talking about "raising" your blade to a
proper height, I guess you must be really cutting a 2" deep dado.
That's pretty deep...

ak

-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: joining edges of wood
Date: 11 Sep 92 12:57:56 GMT

In article <10070029@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer) writes:
> Everything I've read indicates that dowels and biscuits both reduce
> the strength of the joint, but they both help with alignment.

I agree with the second part of this statement, but I've never heard
anyone say that dowels or biscuits reduce the strength of a joint.
Can you provide a reference for this?  I can almost see it for dowels --
if they weren't perfectly aligned, perhaps straining to make them fit
would bow the wood slightly, reducing the contact area.  But that
wouldn't happen with biscuits.
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Fences & Hold-Downs
Date: 6 Sep 92 17:31:19 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1992Sep5.030500.27959@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:

>: how much lumber I can get in a 1,200 pound truck load.
>
>The weight can vary quite a bit - depending on the moisture content.
>I do not know what a dry board foot weighs - maybe someone else has
>the information.
>
>You might try loading your truck with 1200 pounds of brick, or some
>similar material, and look at how the springs react. You can then load
>the truck with lumber until you get the same effect.

Good advice, but not what I need. I've carried a full measured load before,
so I know how the springs should look. My problem is this.

   I need to buy "x" amount of lumber.
   Store "a" carries lumber at an excellent price, but I must pick and
     haul my own to get good quality.
   Store "b" has good quality stuff and will deliver, but it'll cost
     about $100 more.
   If the lumber requires more than three loads, store "b" is the bset
     deal. If not, store "a" is best.
   How many trips will I have to make?

So - roughly how much does a 10' 2x6 (or any other yardstick timber) weigh
in PT pine? My best guess (based on picking one up) is around 70 pounds?
Any better info?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saws: Contractors, Tilting Arbor, or Grizzly?
Date: 5 Sep 92 15:48:33 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I've got a contractors saw with the standard (JetLok) fence.  Seems
more than adequate for me.  The fence is not as easy to set up as
the higher caliber fences, but plenty accurate.  I'd rather spend
the difference on blades or other tools.  I've also got wheels for mine
which helps me position it for where I need it. I've also made a few
auxilliary parts for it (sliding table, etc..) to make it easier to
use.  Even before I got the wheels I used to drag it around (when
I had a different floor beneath it) on it's legs.  I don't have any
problem with the saw's sturdiness (but I did break the platic handle
off the mitre gauge by dropping it, but this is probably the same
guage they give you with the more expensive saw).

Frankly, I'm glad I didn't need to FIX anything on my saw.  It was
all I could do to assemble the thing.

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Dado blade sizes
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 16:42:08 GMT

Craig Marcus writes
> I have the Delta 10" Contractor's table saw,
> and would like to know if anyone w/ a similar
> machine actually uses 10" Dado blades for
> cross cutting.

This really should be in the FAQ.

Most 10" dado blades come with a 1" arbor, and so are unsuitable for
use in machines with a 5/8" arbor, such as your contractor's saw. The
standard size to use is an 8" set.

One problem with larger sets is the added weight - some saws can't get them up 
to speed. If you really want, Forrest makes a 10" dado set with any size arbor
you want - but it costs more than $300.




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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 9 Sep 1992 10:32:46 GMT+7
Reply-To:     $STEPHAN@SASB.BYU.EDU
From:         "STEPHAN.FASSMANN" <$STEPHAN@SASB.BYU.EDU>
Subject:      Finishing Aspen (Poplar) Futon Frame

Hi!

I will be buying an unfinished Aspen (Poplar) Futon Frame soon, and I
was wondering if you have any good advise for finishing it. The wood
is very pretty and I would not like to paint over it. The shop owner
told me that most people use a clear spray laquer to finish their
frames. I am wondering if there are any other options that can be
wused in this situation.
Thanks.

/===Brigham Young University-Student Aux. Services-Housing===\
| Stephan Fassmann   {Network Software Support}   |\         |
| Internet:    $stephan@sasb.byu.edu              |          |
| GEnie:       S.FASSMANN                      __/^\_        |
\======= I don't believe in Miracles, I rely on them ========/
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Ceder siding crack repair
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 15:49:45 GMT

In article <1685ACC98.SYSGAM@SUVM.SYR.EDU> SYSGAM@SUVM.SYR.EDU (Glenn A. Malling) writes:
>In article <1992Sep2.171510.108@ipact.com>
>lakia@ipact.com writes:
> 
>>
>>I need to repair the ceder siding on my house where it has
>>cracked (actually done by the contractor slobs).  The
>>building wrap exposed and I need to fill up to 1/4 inch
>>cracks in a few places.
>>
>>My question is what type of filler should I use?
>>
>>
>>Thanks
> 
>If you're talking about cedar clapboards I'd just replace the board.
>They're not that hard to get out without damage to surrounding
>boards.  Just pry it up a little at the bottom and cut the nails
>with a hacksaw blade.  Also the board above and out it comes.
>Cut the new board to size, slip in place nail, and finish.
If you can't replace the board, I'd try an epoxy putty (Minwax is
the easiest to find around here). It is a lot tougher than ordinary
putties and is supposedly formulated to accomodate wood movement
better than auto-body putties such as Bondo. If you have a natural
finish, you will have to play some games disguising it but at least
it starts out tan rather than white.


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 9 Sep 1992 14:23:47 CDT
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Dado blade sizes
              8 Sep 1992 18:35:33 GMT from <fkilpatr@AFIT.AF.MIL>

On Tue, 8 Sep 1992 18:35:33 GMT Freeman A. Kilpatrick said:
>neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus) writes:
>
>>I have the Delta 10" Contractor's table saw,
>>and would like to know if anyone w/ a similar
>>machine actually uses 10" Dado blades for
>>cross cutting.  Many times I would like
>>to simply cross-cut a 2" deep x 3/4" wide
>>notch in (for example) 4/4 oak.   When buying
>>my dado blades, the local wood supply warned
>>me not to use more than 6" blades on the
>>contractor's saw, and therefore I cannot
>>raise these to the desired 2" height.
>
>This is kind of confusing to me.  I think of a dado like this:
>__________       ________________
>|         |_____|                | V depth
>|         <width>		 |
>|	                         |
>|________________________________|
>
>(pretty good art, eh?)
>
>So by my math you could never cut a 2 inch deep dado in 4/4 stock.  A 6"
>blade would be fine for me (and a lot of people I know) because I never
>use anthing but 4/4 stock, so
>the *deepest* I would ever cut is 3/4".  Maybe you are talking about
>12/4 stock?  Since you are talking about "raising" your blade to a
>proper height, I guess you must be really cutting a 2" deep dado.
>That's pretty deep...
>
>ak
>
>--
>Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil

I'd use a regular blade and nibble the stock away.......

Jeff Roberts
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: dado blade & birch
Date: 11 Sep 92 13:14:51 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I've got a Sears wobble dado on my Delta Contractors saw and not
had any problem with it.  I've done some pretty aggressive cuts
in Maple without any problem, but mostly I've used it for cutting
dados shelf rail in birch plywood.

-Ron

I hate to mention this (but it came up here before), but you do
have the blade in the saw the right way around?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: Hutch building suggestions requested
Followup-To: Hutch building suggestions requested
Keywords: hutch, cheap wood
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 14:15:29 GMT

In article <1992Sep13.174045.20549@afit.af.mil>, fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick) writes:
|> Hello All.
|> 
|> I am interested in getting some net.expertise on my next project, by far the
|> biggest thing I have ever built.  Specifically, I could use some advice on two
|> points.
|> 
|> A) I'm building the Hutch from Norm's first book (New Yankee Workshop), but I am
|> planning to build it out of oak instead of pine like he used.  Has anyone else
|> built this hutch, and especially has anyone built it out of hardwood.  I am having
|> a hard time visualizing what it would look like in oak.
|> 
|> B) (This is a more general question)  This is the first project I have built with
|> drawers, an internal frame, etc.  I am curious to know where I can "cheat" and not
|> use hard wood.  Can I make the carcase frame from pine since it doesn't show?  How
|> bout the drawer sides?  And the drawer backs?  I would appreciate any advice,
|> experienced or not, email or post is fine.
|> 
|> Thanks everyone,
|> 
|> ak
|> -- 
|> Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
|> "Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
|> ---Popular Mechanics, March 1949


Although not having built "Norm's Hutch" I have built china cabinets before and I am sure that your project will look excellent.  Using lower quality wood for hidden structures is absolutely OK.  My personal preference is wither hard or soft maple but poplar and pine are used often.  Your choice should be driven by the structural strength required.

Have fun - Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: Which side gets the cleaner cut?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 16:51:49 GMT

JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts) writes:
: On Fri, 11 Sep 1992 18:51:09 GMT bill nelson said:
: >
: >I am not sure what you are proposing. The best ways are to 1) scribe the
: >cutting line with a very sharp knife, to a depth of about 1/16 inch. Then
: >make your cut just "slightly" to the scrap side of this line. The other
: >way is to tape the line and cut through the tape - this minimizes chipping.
: 
: Bill,
: To clarify, I was recommending the same procedure you recommended with
: tape only using scrap 1/4" plywood in place of the tape.  I have alot of 1/4"
: around (trimmings from cabinet backs) and this seems to be the best use for it.

Ah, I understand. I thought you were proposing putting a 1/4" strip alone the
work-piece side of the cut. That sounded like too much effort. Using a wood
strip, instead of tape, should work - as long as you can keep it firmly in
contact with the work-piece throughout the length of the cut.

: By the way, to give credit where credit is due I believe George Patterson(?)
: also recommended using tape over the cut line....sounds good to me.

It is a common recommendation in all the woodworking books I have.

Bill
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Subject: Trading Cards...
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 17:04:08 GMT


Ok, I just got my Craftsman Tool Club membership car
in the mail yesterday.  How soon before I can expect
my first pack of trading cards?  I see all this bartering
on the net and I feel left out.  My girlfriend's
father got a pack last week.  Maybe I can convince
him to give them to me whenever he gets them.  Then
I'll be getting cards from two sources.  And then
maybe I'll just go to Sears tonite and sign up for
the tool club again under an alias.  And do the same
thing tomorrow, and the next day, and the next day...


Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking