HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: High speed useful ? (was Re: Nikon N90 technobabble)
Date: 8 Sep 92 04:13:31 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
: From article <272@metran.UUCP>, by jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts):
: > luong@naxos.inria.fr (Quang-Tuan Luong) writes:
: > : In article <PHR.92Sep4102515@soda.berkeley.edu>, phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin) writes:
: > : 
: > : I don't understand the utility of high speed shutters. On my 8008, I think
: > : I have never shot beyond 1/1000s, and I cannot imagine any real situation 
: > : where 1/8000s would be useful.
: > 
: > There also might be some really fast action you would like to catch.
: > Hummingbirds, or something...
: 
: [..] might be a bit
: "not that true".  I believe at 1/8000th, the camera does not actually
: capture the whole frame within 1/8000th of a second.  Instead, it might
: say take 1/2000th of a second to take the frame, while taking portions
           ^^^^^^^^
It would take as long as the X sync speed.  So if that is fast because
the shutter is fast, at least there is a win over a camera with a slower
shutter...

: of the frame at a time. 

Yes, so the hypothetical hummingbird's wings might be distorted in shape,
because they are in different positions while the shutter traverses the
film plane.

: Can anyone say what is the highest speed w/o the shutter doing the
: "portion-at-a-time" thing?

This can be accomplished using an in-lens shutter, as in view camera
lenses, medium format lenses in some cameras (Mamiya RB/RZ 67 comes to
mind) and also in some 35mm cameras (including the Kodak Retina, Zeiss
Contaflex, and some rangefinders -- and don't forget the disposable
35's!).  I know that the X-sync speed on Mamiya lenses is (usually? always?)
1/500 second.  The common disposable camera has roughly a 1/125
shutter speed (anyone ever measured one of these?).

Back on the subject of "why is 1/8000 sec. (and above) useful?" I'd like
to point something out that makes me wonder if it's really a good idea.
Many films, including most which I have bothered to research, suffer
from reciprocity failure above 1/1000 second.  For example, Kodak
recommends additional exposure AND FILTER CORRECTION for some of their
color films when exposed for less than 1/1000 sec.  With this in mind,
I wonder if the super-high shutter speed is always a good thing ...

Hey, if those new auto-everything, super-intelligent SLR's are so good,
howcum they can't be programmed to expose properly, adjusting for a
particular film's reciprocity characteristics? :-)

Jay Ts
From: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Tilt and Shift.  How useful are they?
Date: 10 Sep 92 16:12:38 GMT
Reply-To: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin)
Organization: COMANDOS Project, Glesga Yoonie

hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) wrote:
> I think that greater depth of focus can be achieved with these field 
> cameras than with usual medium format cameras with normal lenses.

No, the depth of focus is just determined by focal length and f-stop.  What
you *can* do is use the swings and tilts to change the *plane* of focus,
which gives you more flexibility.  It doesn't have to be parallel to the
lens.


> At what focal lengths are they really useful?   Is there any difference in
> the way tilt and shift work between wide-angle lenses and telephoto lenses?
> In terms of tilt angles, so to speak.

No difference with tilt and swing - their effects depend only on the lens
and film positions and focal distance (the Scheimpflug rule).  With shift,
you can get more extreme effects with a wide-angle.

Incidentally, you mean "long focus", not "telephoto" - a telephoto is an
optical design that makes the lens's optical centre lie in front of it.
Since this usually means more distance from front to back lens element, and
hence elements protruding out the back of the mount and more vignetting,
telephotos are less used in the large-format world than they are in 35mm or
medium format (or, if your camera's already the size of a TV, what's another
few inches?).


> The lens should be especially free from vignetting, shouldn't it?

More precisely, it should project a usefully large cone of high-definition
image out the back.  So many books describe lenses that cover a large area
as "wide angle", irrespective of their focal length.

The books on view cameras by Stone and Stroebel explain all this stuff.


And a large-format question: what should I expect to pay for a second-hand
47mm Super Angulon, in either the f8 or f5.6 version?  In the US?  In the
UK?

-- 
--  Jack Campin    room G092, Computing Science Department, Glasgow University,
17 Lilybank Gardens, Glasgow G12 8RZ, Scotland   TEL: 041 339 8855 x6854 (work)
INTERNET: jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk or via nsfnet-relay.ac.uk    FAX: 041 330 4913
BANG!net: via mcsun and uknet     BITNET: via UKACRL    UUCP: jack@glasgow.uucp
From: x89marenger@gw.wmich.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Gray market, Is it worth it????
Date: 15 Sep 92 13:30:24 EST
Organization: Western Michigan University



I am interested in a nikon AF 35mm f/2 so I called Adorama (sp) and the
gentleman told me the price ($253.95 + ship).  I asked him if it had a U.S.
warranty he said no.  So I asked him how much for the same lens with the
warranty?  He said $37.00.  He advised me to buy the cheaper one because
they (Adorama) would repair it.  

My question is: Should I buy the gray market lens or should I pay the extra and
get the U.S. warranty?




If I have trouble with the gray market lens, will a nikon dealer repair it or
does the product have to be shipped back to Japan?





I would appreciate any response.  And I thank you in advance.


thanks 

keith
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: markt@cup.hp.com (Mark Thompson)
Subject: Re: the zone system for 35mm
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 15:38:49 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

One thing that was mentioned by Rudy Bender in a recient article about zone
system is that the new thin emulsion films, tmax 100 was on that he quoted,
are less able to go to n+4 n-3 development, as old trix or plusx was.

One consideration that he suggested to get the compression of zones, in a
very contrasty situtation, is to use a two part developemnt.  There are many
conventional developers that have formulas for two part development, D23 D76.
Diafine is the only two part developer,that i know of, sold for two part 
development.
Basically the "A" part has only the developing agent and maybe some
presevative.  The "B" part has an accelerator.  The method is to develop
for 3-4 minuets in "A" which simply allows the film to soak up the developing
agent.  When placed in "B" with minimal agatation the accelorator kicks the
developing agent in to action.  This is sometimes called automatic developing
because it is self limiting.  At some point the most heavly exposed areas
on the neg. will exhaust the developing agent and stop developing, the less
exposed areas, shadows, will keep developing.  When you agatate the whole
soup is mixed up and you start again.  Time and temp. are not critical.  
You achieve some compression of the zones, you at least maintain detail in
the higher zones without blocking up.  Tmax doesn't have the forgiving
character in the highlights that Trix does.

That's my two cents worth on zone system with roll film.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pchris@dcc.uchile.cl (Chris Perleberg)
Subject: Re: origin of word 'tyro'
Originator: pchris@pehuen
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1992 14:19:02 GMT
Reply-To: pchris@dcc.uchile.cl
Organization: Universidad de Chile, Depto. de Ciencias de la Computacion


In article <lamo3vINN6dh@news.bbn.com>, koolish@BBN.COM (Richard M. Koolish) writes:
> From 'Webster's New Universal Unabridged Dictionary":
> 
>     tyro, n., [L. tiro, a young soldier, recruit] a beginner in learning;
>     a novice: also spelled tiro.

En Spanish, tyro is "tiron".  "tiro" or "tir" is probably part of latin.

	Chris Perleberg
	pchris@dcc.uchile.cl
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@smdsctt.bellcore.com (C. Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: 430 EZ flash for Canon (grey market imports)
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 21:32:48 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.205657.15596@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>, ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:

|> On a slightly broader note, are Nikon the only company that refuses to honor
|> warranties on grey market imports? I know that Canon and Sigma will support
|> their equipment however it is purchased. Any info on other manufacturers?

Olympus factory service only requires a copy of sale slip. No
USA warranty card needed. But I don't know if they would service 
stuff bought overseas.

-- 

C. Jason Chen                 
**************E-Mail: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
**************V-Mail: (908)699-6993
**************P-Mail: 444 Hoes Lane, 1E229, Piscataway, NJ
From: jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Slide indexing ideas(?)
Date: 5 Sep 92 03:57:44 GMT
Organization: ISC - Bunker Ramo, Spokane, WA

In article <5360791@hplsla.hp.com> andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino) writes:
>| 	Would you use:    i)   year-month-roll#-frame#
>| 		          ii)  year-month-image#
>|                           iii) roll#-frame#-year

I use ##-## (sequence, frame) for negatives, and AA-## for slides.  I
don't use the year at all, but the date's on the slide mounts, and
written on the negative holder sheet.  I started with A-1, and when I
hit Z-36 I went to AA-1, etc.  It'll be awhile before I hit AAA-1. 

-- 
+----------------+
! II      CCCCCC !  Jim Cathey
! II  SSSSCC     !  ISC-Bunker Ramo
! II      CC     !  TAF-C8;  Spokane, WA  99220
! IISSSS  CC     !  UUCP: uunet!isc-br!jimc (jimc@isc-br.isc-br.com)
! II      CCCCCC !  (509) 927-5757
+----------------+
			"PC's --- the junk bonds of the computer industry"
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rbhank@wsl.dec.com (Ron Bhanukitsiri)
Subject: Re: Pentax PZ-1 class questions
Reply-To: rbhank@wsl.dec.com (Ron Bhanukitsiri)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 18:28:06 GMT


In article <1992Sep9.191842.5091@wlbr.iipo.gtegsc.com>, fdm@WLV.IIPO.GTEGSC.COM (Frank D. Malczewski) writes:

|> After many years of using my trusty Pentax MX and assorted non-AF lenses,
|> it is time to move on to more sophisticated things.  I've been contemplating
|> the new PZ-1 model, and have a few questions that hopefully someone can 
|> answer (I've noticed little/no mention of Pentax here as of late):
|> 
|> 1.  Can one turn off the built-in flash so it is not used?

The flash doesn't normally get turned on unless you pop it up with a push
button.

|> 2.  Can Pentax's AF lenses be used on the manual MX?

Yup, I use my AF lens on my MF SuperProgram often.
 
|> 3.  Any recommendations on zooms and other AF lenses to go with the PZ-1?

I recommend the new 28-105 f/4-5.6 zoom.

|> 5.  The MX and its lenses have held up pretty well in terms of durability.
|>     In comparison, how well will the PZ-1 and current Pentax lenses likely 
|>     hold up (I've not seen these yet, but I would assume that Pentax uses a
|>     bit more plastic these days than it did 15 years ago...)
|> 

Personally, I think my Pentax M and A lens would outlast my AF lens, but only
time will tell.

|> Pointers to reviews of this camera (Pop. Photo. etc.) and pointers to
|> comparable cameras (and reviews) in the Canon and Minolta lines (or even
|> lesser cameras in the Pentax line) which may be preferable alternatives
|> (and why) would be appreciated also.

I think it's Pop Photo February issue, but can't be certain.  The comprehensive
review is definitely between Feb and Jul of this year.

|> Frank Malczewski		(fdm@wlv.iipo.gtegsc.com)
|> 

Ron B[ee]
From: DJBennet@cen.ex.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Rewinding Films: But not completely
Keywords: Rewinding, cartridge, diff kinds of photography
Date: 15 Sep 92 10:37:46 GMT
Organization: University of Exeter, UK.

In article <1992Jul15.224215.17883@news.uiowa.edu> mahatme@icaen.uiowa.edu (Chandrashehar Vasant Mahatme) writes:
>
>	Could anybody tell me how one can rewind a film without letting
>it go completely inside the cartridge. Specifically I've a Minolta X-700
>and I tried to rewind a partially exposed film so that it's end still 
>remains out. But unfortunately I couldn't stop exactly. There must be some
>technique for that which I don't know. This would be helpful if I wanted 
>to shoot nature pictures using say Ektar 25 then a Portrait using Fuji Realla 
>100. Since I'm no pro' I can't simply waste the expensive films for pictures 
>I don't want and since I'm not totally a amatuer I would like to use diff films 
>for nature photography and for other types.
>	Thanks for your responses.
>
>Shekhar Mahatme
>------- -------


Er... me too. But w/ a Canon EOS 100.  Impossible. I don't like the dictionary
defn.

Responses by E-Mail please... Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Dave

-- 
| JANET  : dbe2@uk.ac.ex.dcs       | "I say what it occurs to me to say when  |
| UUCP   : dbe2@ex-dcs.uucp        | I think I hear people say things. More I |
| Undergrad @ University of EXETER | cannot say." HHGTTG Radio Scripts.       |
| Computer Science Dept. EXETER,UK | by D N Adams                             |
From: kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Rechargeable batteries
Date: 9 Sep 92 12:01:22 GMT
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY

In article <1992Sep9.045430.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:
>
>The trap of NiCds is their habit of self discharge. You always seem to have
>one in a set that wants to bite the dust real fast.
>
	It shouldn't be too difficult to construct a test-bed for an
individual battery from a battery holder, a lamp and a little wire.  The
difficulty is in selecting a lamp that will draw an appropriate amount of
current.  Then put your fully-charged batteries in one by one and keep
tabs on when the lamp goes out.  Toss any batteries that die significantly
faster than the average.
-- 
Kenneth A. Reek				kar@cs.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology	rutgers!rochester!rit!kar
From: elie@hdtv.njit.edu (Elie I. Mourad)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Repair help: Canon 7S w/ 50mm f0.95
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:47:26 GMT
Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, N.J.


Seems my younger sister dropped my near mint Canon 7S w/ 50mm f0.95.... :-(
I have not yet seen the damage but I need to know who would know how
to fix such units (New York area would be best)

Thanks, Elie.
From: kbb0@harvey.gte.com (Kevin Burke)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cheap "Leica" (Re: another all mechnical camera)
Summary: Zeiss? Not Leica?
Date: 11 Sep 92 13:13:51 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.084037.5777@fy.chalmers.se>, f88mattb@fy.chalmers.se (Mattias Bryntesson) writes:
> In article <10SEP199214453382@venus.tamu.edu> s0l3906@venus.tamu.edu (LIN, SHYH-HORNG) writes:
> ....
> >For a beginner who want a mechnical camera, it seems to me that
> >Yachica FX3 super 2000 is a better buy than Pente x.
> ....
> 
> Another feature of Yashica is that you can use Leica lenses, making

Don't the Yashica bodies take the Carl Zeiss lenses that are made for
the Contax line of bodies? The two mounts (Contax/Zeiss and Leica/Leitz)
are not compatable.

> the bodies interesting for others than beginners. I don't think they
> come with such a lens, at least not for $119.   ;-(
> 
> Mattias

Regards, Kevin
From: dd@doc.ic.ac.uk (Demetrius Dracopoulos)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Projectors in USA and UK
Date: 13 Sep 92 13:11:37 GMT
Reply-To: dd@doc.ic.ac.uk (Demetrius Dracopoulos)
Organization: Department Of Computing, Imperial College, London UK
NNTP-Posting-Host: swan.doc.ic.ac.uk

Which series of projectors is Kodak selling now in USA?
Last May while being in Nashua,NH it was the (4400,5600) series.

Now here in UK I can't find this series and they are telling me that
they are waiting for the new EktaPro series.
Is this series exist already in US and under which name (here it will be 3000,
5000,7000 and the ultimate 9000).
If yes how much they cost?

Anybody in UK who knows a shop to find the 'old' series (no luck in Jessop!)?

Cheers

Dimitri

-------------------------------------------------------
Don't mess with Texas
-------------------------------------------------------

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**  **    **    ** * **    **     **      *****      **
*****     **    **   **    **     **      **  **     **
From: tls@panix.com (Thor Lancelot Simon)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: photo labs in Paris, France?
Keywords: labs france
Date: 9 Sep 92 00:07:33 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <ptse.715973550@bcars65b> ptse@bcars65b.bnr.ca (Paul Tse) writes:
>I'm about to embark on my first vacation to Paris, France.  I was
>wondering if anyone could recommend a photo lab in Paris that can
>do B&W and color processing with a reasonably quick turn-around.


For the fastest possible turnaround, I'd use the big Photo Service lab on the
lowest level of Les Halles, near the Centre Pompidou.  There are Photo Service
minilabs/storefronts all over Paris, but the one in Les Halles is probably the
largest.  They do color in 30-45min, and B&W in 45min/1hr.  They do fairly
good work, too, and they're quite agreeable about redoing anything you don't
like.  Images Fnac, in the same general neighborhood (on the cross-street
that meets the Seine near the Tour Saint Jacques(?) (God, my memory's going --
the big freestanding Flamboyant Gothic tower, anyway, there's only one in Paris
) seem to do better B&W work, though it takes overnight.  Photo Service'll
run a whole roll of B&W prints just like color (using a big Agfa machine --
neat-o!) if you want that (actually, it's their standard service) or they do
custom prints if you get your negs done elsewhere.  I've never used their
custom enlargement service, but I've seen a few pros get negs/contacts done at
Images Fnac and then have the final prints done at Photo Service.  (Why they
don't do them themselves, I don't know, but...)  There's another big Photo
Service lab in La Defense somewhere, but I've never even seen it, so I can't
vouch for it.  I also received a strong recommendation for a small photo
store on Rue des Archives, a block or two up the street from where it crosses
Rue de Rivoli near the Hotel de Ville.  This was only a block from where I
lived in Paris, but their prices were kinda high for my tastes, especially for
B&W, so I never took anything there.  I have heard that they do really good
work, though, so you might want to try them.

Hope this helps!
> 
>I plan on shooting some infrared there and don't want to risk 
>having the film fog if I wait to process it here.
> 
>Any other tips about photography in France would be appreciated.
>Thanks for your help.
> 
>  Paul Tse
>
>


-- 
Thor Lancelot Simon	 tls@panix.COM

"Better be careful there.  John might decide to start taking legal action
against people who refuse to buy stuff from him."  --Kevin McBride
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: K-Mart (K-MART? Yes, K-Mart...)
From: krschimm@wsuhub.uc.twsu.edu (Karl Schimmel)
Date: 10 Sep 92 14:17:33 CST
Distribution: na
Organization: Wichita State University, Wichita, Ks

In article <1992Sep9.184936.15972@oz.plymouth.edu>, brucer@oz.plymouth.edu (Bruce Ritchie) writes
> 	So, hence my questions: Does K-mart process their own film or
> send it to a lab? Has anyone here ever used them and how were the results?> 
K-mart sends it out to a major lab authorized by kodak and using kodak paper.
The negs are as well processed as any lab, the prints depend on the service
you select. I live in Kansas and the cheepest they offer (even cheeper than
Wal-mart) is $3.96 for a 36exp roll. The prints occasionally are a stop off
and require reprinting (which is free upon request from almost any respectable
developer place) I shoot sports team photo packages (which include a 3x4 and
5x7 group ) and use K-mart to process and print the 3x4 (next day service in
most cities!) and a local lab for the 5x7's because its quicker. The more
expensive k-mart packages (about $5.50 for 36exp) and top of the line
($7.50 /36exp) print 4x6 and are rarely off enough to complain for union
work (a.k.a. home pictures)
Hope that helps
Karl Schimmel
From: zax@kenpo.Corp.Sun.COM ( 8-{0 )
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Request for info:  FLASHES FOR ELAN
Date: 14 Sep 1992 19:08:02 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: zax@kenpo.Corp.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: kenpo.corp.sun.com


I never had a problem (red-eyes) when using the built-in flash of
an ELAN.

If you're really considering buying an external flash, purchase
the Canon 430EZ, i paid $255.00 for it.  Canon's manual says, that
if you use a different brand, it might not be *fully* compatible
with Canon's camera electronics and could cause some camera problems,
then therefore will void your camera warranty.

Using an external flash will not solve the red-eye problem, except if
you bounce flash, but what if the ceiling is high - bounce flash will
not work well!  And also, the red-eye feature in the ELAN does not work
when using an external flash.  In fact, the first time i played around
with my 430EZ flash shooting in the gym, most of the results have red-eyes.
I then tried using a white cardboard attached to my bounced flash, it 
only worked well when shooting at a close range.

A professional photographer told me to purchase a special "L" shaped
bracket, that can be attached to the bottom of the camera, where you
normally attach a tripod.  Purchase the Canon optional shoe-cord,
cost $50.+ (i know, it's getting too expensive but i'm getting better
results!).  This way, the flash is not mounted directly on top of the
camera, a little off, then therefore avoiding the red-eye effect.
Some "L" brackets are movable or have two shoe-mounts, so you can 
shoot side ways with the flash on the upright position.

Make sure that the optional shoe-cord will fit the "L" bracket's
shoe mount.

good luck!

---sonny
From: serge@mais.hydro.qc.ca (Serge Oligny)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Professional Labs in Montreal
Date: 10 Sep 92 14:15:29 GMT
Organization: Hydro-Quebec (DSB)

DH02@polytec1.polymtl.ca (DH02) writes:

>Hi folks!

>Would any kind reader from the city of Montreal (the one in Quebec)
>be able to recommend me to a professional photo-lab where I could
>get manually printed enlargements (8x10's etc.), preferably down-town
>(centre-ville) or around.  I'm kind of new to this (great ?) city!
>Merci beaucoup!  I would really appreciate any suggestions.


I am usually using the services of CORLAB for the lab. work I don't do
myself.  I have used their services for E-6 processing and R-3000 enlargement
and have been highly satisfied.  Since this is a commercial lab for profes-
sional work, the turnaround time is usually very fast (never more than 24hrs
in my experiences).

They also offer a large array of darkroom work... C-41, B&W, enlargement up
to wall size format (color & B&W), laminating, mounting, copying... All the
services they offer is detailed in a well organized brochure with prices and
details about each processes.

Talking about prices... they are in the upper part of the scale but then the
results are up to it (in my opinion) .  I do not remember the exact street
on which they are located but I do remember one side of the building is on
Wellington street (they're on a corner) and the place is 2-3 blocks east of
the Wellington tunnel entrance; that is pretty much downtown...

BTW, I fully agree that Montreal is a really great place to take pictures !
Lots of "ambience"...

Serge Oligny
Montreal
----------------------
 
--
______________________________________________________________________________
                                      This is a personal opinion that have
serge @mais.hydro.qc.ca               nothing to do with my employer.
______________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.photo