HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mccormic@bnr.ca (Shawn McCormick)
Subject: Sleigh bed or pencil post bed plans wanted
Reply-To: mccormic@bnr.ca (Shawn McCormick)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 13:13:15 GMT

The title says it all. I'm looking into building my own
bed, either of the sleigh bed type or the pencil post type,
depending on what plans I can find for either. I've done 
some preliminary designs on a sleigh bed but I'd like to 
get some input w.r.t. heights, etc. Any info on plans or 
even sources of plans would be appreciated. Please post 
responses as I don't have email.

Thanks,

Shawn McCormick
Bell Northern Research
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, eh!
(613) 763-7339
From: rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Basic jointing questions
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:23:17 GMT
Organization: Marshall University

You can joint boards with your circular saw. I've done it with
Hickory, Cherry, Beech, Popular and Pine.

Get a Hollow-ground Planer Blade. For a circular saw, probably only
around $10.00. You shouldn't have to look very hard to find one.

Then get some kind of straight edge to clamp to each board you
wish to joint to guide the saw against. A piece of angle iron is
good for this, or you can use a straight-edged board; your Jack
Plane should be able to create a sufficiently straight edge for
this purpose.

The best way is to clamp the straight edge and the board you wish to
joint onto the workbench simultaneously.

--danny
-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jmr@caph.rtp.semi.harris.com (Mike Reid x636)
Subject: Re: Grizzly Combination sander G1014
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 13:33:17 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Research Triangle Park, NC

Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET> writes:
>    Well as some of you may remember I left my Grizzly catalog in the trash
>with the supper leftovers so I cannot look up the sander under discussion,
>however I also have been looking at combination sanders 9ins disc, 8 ins belt
>and am considering the Woodteck model at about $380.  I havn't looked at it
>yet but am going to drive out sometime in the next day or two to give it the
>once over.  If anybody is interested I will post my opinions.

A few months ago I posted the story of my bad experience with the Woodtech
Jointer. To summarize, after having the jointer a few months it developed a
crack in the casting of the outfeed table. The casting was quite rough (rougher
than the floor model I saw at WW Supply) and it vibrated a lot. I was able to
return it for credit (not refund) and after a month or so of deliberation I
ordered the Grizzly 6" jointer. Price, including shipping, was only a few 
bucks more than the Woodtech jointer (including tax). The Grizzly casting
is much higher quality, the sheet metal base is sturdier (thicker metal) and
there is a dust shute. The Grizzly vibrates less, although I still have not
reduced the vibration as much as I'd like. In general I am well please with
the Grizzly. BTW, I just got the Grizzly summer catalog and saw that they
will be selling a new 4" stationary jointer, same style as the 6" and 8"
jointers.

This may have no bearing on disc sanders. But before buying the Woodtech you
may want to call Grizzly and get a local reference so you can compare the
two units yourself.
-- 
Mike Reid (jmr@rtp.semi.harris.com)
Harris Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC
(919) 549-3636
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale: Mr. Grizzly replies
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 18:16:26 GMT

His backhanded dismissal of computer jockeys in general tees
me off.

I'm going to write.  It's worth 29 cents just to take a big shot
down a few rungs, and he's provided just cause.

I encourage others to lambast him as well.

Bill Millios

P.S. Please post your letters here, so that others may enjoy the
jibes at this man's expense.  :^)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: removing laminate
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 21:01:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Jul27.083641.3011@titan.ksc.nasa.gov>, myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak) writes:
|> No, use lacquer thinner and a brush. It will cut the contact cement
|> nicely.

How on earth do you get the lacquer thinner TO the contact cement?  Particle
board (presumably) on one side, formica on the other, a hairline of glue
showing along the edge.  Seems tough to me.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, did you know that super banana squash is a vampire?  And he drinks
blood from cactuses?"  -- Tommy, age 3.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumer.house
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Building wooden entrance doors
Reply-To: 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 15:38:25 GMT

Hi folks,

I've been tossing the idea around of replacing the metal clad 
front entrance door to my house, the bottom is rusted quite 
badly.  One of the ideas I have is to build the replacement myself.
I've done a fair bit of woodworking and feel comfortable with the project.
A while ago, while reading the 1990 building code book I recall seeing
a reference to a code that exterior doors must be constructed to, but
alas, I don't know where to go to find out what those code requirements
are.  I've checked the library on door construction, but everything seemed
to revolve around stylized interior doors.

If you can comment on any/all of the following it would be appreciated:

Material:
  I'm thinking of using white oak or ash, or possibly cedar.  Any comments
  on insulation differences between the two?  Rot resistance?  Will cedar 
  hold up in the long run, will it be strong enough?  Any other ideas?

Construction:
  I'm planning on raised panels with rail and style construction, but
  I'm concerned about wind/air flow through the cracks between the
  panels and the rail/styles.  Are there any compounds that would
  seal properly, while still be flexible enough to allow wood movement?

Finish:
  As half of this door will be exposed to the elements, what would be a 
  good finish?  I'd like to be able to see the wood grain so maybe a 
  good spar varnish?  What about the marine varnishes/polyeurethenes?
  Would it be a good idea to install a storm door to limit the exposure
  to wind/rain/snow?

Please send e-mail and I'll gladly consolidate the responses and post
the info to the net.

-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 20:37:39 GMT

In article <92205.164804DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
>I was wondering if anyone else has this problem.  Whenever I rip hardwoods
>against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut.  The only time I
>really rip hardwoods on the table saw is to joint them.  Could the marks be
>caused by the the blade having too many teeth and not letting the wood move
>freely enogh?  When I joint wood I use a 60 tooth blade.  I know that the
>rip fence is paralel to the blade.

My first guess is that the fence isn't *really* parallel. Try running
the blade all the way up and measuring from the fence to the blade at
both front and back. You should be able to get it exactly the same.

Assuming that the distance *is* the same, then you may be extending the
blade too much. It's not a good idea to extend the saw blade much past the
surface of the wood. Extend the blade just far enough that the teeth
stick out about 1/16" through the wood. If you extend the blade too much,
the rear teeth may burn the wood a little.

For you circular saw users, doing this on a circular saw will give you
more control over the saw, and the blade will be less likely to bind.

You might also try making two passes.

I work mainly with cherry and oak these days and, when I see this problem,
it's because the fence isn't *quite* parallel. I also use a 60 tooth
blade (Freud or Pirana), but a 40 tooth is actually better for ripping.
Take it slow with a 60. If your blade is not a good carbide tip, you
need to pick up a blade that's designed for ripping. A 60 tooth planer
blade (for example) would not be the best choice.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you maintain your motorcycle yourself,
                    | eventually you will have two of them.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 21 Jul 1992 13:14:25 CDT
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Compressors & Air Tool opinions?
              21 Jul 1992 12:58:39 GMT from <rjc@CBNEWSF.CB.ATT.COM>

>I received some mail suggesting that I post my inquirey here.  Hope that's ok &
>not asking for a HUDGE rehash.
>
>I'm buying a 5HP/80 GAL compressor & tools.  I'm seriously looking at Sanborne
>and Campbell units.  Prices are relatively that same.  PSI at 175, single
>phase,
>etc, etc....
>
>		Sanborne			Campbell
>
>Price		$950				$850 > $950
>CFM		22				18.8
>Warrenty	2 yrs			 	1 yr, maybe 2. being checked
>Cylinder	Alum. Sleeved			All Cast Iron
>Wireing		pre-wired			maybe pre-wired
>starter		magnetic starter		think it has magnetic starter
>Made		Don't know			USA
>
>I'm currently voteing for the Campbell due to the cast iron cylinders and the
>American made, even though the 18.8 isn't as high as the Sanbore 22 CFM.
>
>Tools - I'm leaning toward Chicago Pneumatic.  Top of their line.
>
>Any experience or knowledge of these units or brands?  Seems most people are
>fairly happy and have good service from most anything they have, outside of
>cheap tools.
>
>First of all I'm envious, lucky dog!  I've had a Campbell/Haus. 3/4 horse with
 5 gallon tank for about 4-5 years.  It's a real solid little machine, I spray
 finish and stains but shouldn't (I just take lots of breaks while she gets
 another breath of air) and use it to shoot finish nails, clean the shop etc.
 Even though I am aware that you should not use it with an extension cord I
 finally did it anyway and overheated the little rascal....she came back to
 life.  Seeing as though I use the thing for just about everything except what
 it was designed to do I'd have to say it's a well built machine.
 I am assuming that the same quality will be put into the much larger machine
 as the small one I have.

 Jeff Roberts
 JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
From: bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Date: 27 Jul 92 21:45:58 GMT
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Distribution: na
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

Cary Petterborg writes
> In article <2156@tivoli.UUCP> news@tivoli.UUCP (New owner) writes:
> 
> >The contractor I learned about cordless drills from never used a key even  
with
> >the regular chuck.  You just put the clutch on low, get a good grip on the  
chuck,
> >then let the drill tighten itself. It works, but the notches can tear up  
your
> >hand.  A keyless has no sharp edges, so the above technique is the  
recommended
> >one.
> 
> No, the recommended technique is to unplug the drill and tighten the chuck
> by hand!  I have done it both ways, too, but the manufacturer NEVER
> recommends the other technique!

Depends on who "the manufacturer" is: Sears *does* recommend this in its manual 
for my "Sears Best" drill, which came with a keyless chuck. On the Sears, there 
no way to lock the shaft, so you can't get it near tight enough by hand - you 
have to use the motor.

BTW, I've had bits slip in it. Other keyless chucks I've played with in tool 
stores seem much better. My drill is about 5 years old and keyless chuck 
designs have improved since then. I don't know if Sear's current models are 
better than mine. Mine has some sort of built in rachet that tries to pop free  
at a certain degree of tightness. If you try really hard you can keep it  
engaged, which seems to result in a tighter grip.  But it's so much trouble  
that a keyed chuck would be easier.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

PS: Never say NEVER.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Don't Lose Your Chuckey (was Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?)
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 13:05:41 GMT
Summary: storing chuck key on line cord vs drill body

In article <1992Jul25.153013.11724@ee.gatech.edu>,
baud@kepler.eedsp.gatech.edu (Kurt Baudendistel) writes:

> Don't ever lose your checkey!...
> Just take a piece of duct tape, double it over the cord of your
> drill, and put the handle of the key in between the two sticky parts
> before you push them all the way together!

I never attach a chuck key to an AC line cord using tape or
cable ties because repeated use of the key can begin to wear
the line cord insulation... and duct tape ???!!!??!!   :-)

Here's a better way to attach the key to a Milwaukee hole shooter,
or other drill.  Replace one of the rear bolts holding the two plastic
halves of the drill body with a longer bolt.  Attach a plastic cable
hold-down to the end of the longer bolt with another nut.
The cable hold-down can serve as a chuck key holder.


Crude top view of plastic cable hold-down:
    ______
   /      \
d  |      |
r  |  O   |           Place chuck key at O
i  |      |
l  |  ____/
l  | /
   | |
===|X|=   <-------- bolt
   | |
b
o   ^
d   |
y   +------ nut
-- 
===============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S                                         parnass@ihlpm.att.com
Distinguished Member of the Technical Staff                       (708)979-5414
AT&T Bell Laboratories                              Knife collector, woodworker
From: rcbi27@muvms3.bitnet (DBRUM)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Building wooden entrance doors
Date: 24 Jul 92 16:48:48 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Marshall University

In article <1992Jul21.153825.15192@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin) writes:
 
> Material:
>   I'm thinking of using white oak or ash, or possibly cedar.  

If you use hardwood, your door will weigh a ton; use *big* hinges.

-- 
	"Were his solid black square paintings really,
	as the artist claimed, simply neutral, abstract
	compositions devoid of external references and
	meanings?" ***********************************
From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 14:10:54 GMT
Subject: Re: removing laminate
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan) writes:

> 
> My Kitchen cabinets are made of particle boards covered with brown
> laminates.  What I would like to do is remove the brown laminate
> and put on white laminate.  What is the best and easiest method
> I should use to remove the brown laminate ?  Should I use a heat 
> gun ?
> 
> Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> DJ

	Don't remove the old stuff, it will be too much work and you
might never get it all off. Contact cement is pretty storng. Just
rough up the surface of the brown laminate with 80-100 sandpaper, coat
with contact cement, and place coated white laminate on, roll, and
trim the edges.
	I did some ugly simulated dark walnut particle board cabinets
this way, looks much better.
				-Shaw

p.s. If you don't like the edge of the laminate showing, paint the
edges.
From: larryk@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Larry Kubo)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Re: Compressors & Air Tools
Date: 22 Jul 92 17:44:06 GMT
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD)

My researched opinion:

I looked at the Sears compressors and their price. I asked a respected 
colleague, and he said to stay away from aluminum compressors, and get a
cast iron sleeve compressor.

Sears' direct drive compressors are the dreaded aluminum.

I found at Grainger a 3HP pulley-driven, 20 Gal 100 psi compressor for $360.
My friend said that virtually everything can be re-ordered through Grainger,
whereas, if anything goes wrong on Sears compressor, you throw it away and
buy another.

It is wired for 110, but can be runned on 220VAC.

Am I happy? Yep. I keep on finding new things I can do better, faster with
lots of compressed air. E.g., blowing out leaves/debris between redwood decking,
clean out the gutters, clearing out cobwebs under eaves...... 
LK
From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Basic jointing questions
Date: 21 Jul 92 19:18:10 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

pmeyer@sedona.intel.com (Paul Meyer) writes:

> My biggest challenge right now is getting the 2x6's true and square for
> gluing up with no table saw or jointer.
> 
>         I can do a reasonable job of jointing 3/4" stock on my router table
> with a 1" straight bit.  If I buy a more powerful router with a 1/2" collet,
> I can get straight cutter bits up to 3" or so and use that in my router table
> as a jointer.  Or should I just spend the money on the jointer?  Or is there
> any way to adapt a 1/4" collet craftsmen router to a 1/2" shank bit?

Why do you need a larger diameter bit for edge jointing?  You could even use a
1/4" bit for that; I have.  That would probably give a good enough edge for
gluing.

I do use a 1" bit...for surfacing.  My 1 hp router with a 1" bit did an
adequate job of flattening 14" wide boards.  It doesn't leave as smooth a
surface as a 14" wide jointer, but the router and a hand plane are a little bit
cheaper.  :)

BTW, for jointing boards, with a limited budget, you might want to consider
making your own wood-bodied jointer plane.  A plane blade and some scraps of
hardwood can produce a better joint than a commercial jointer plane--or
jointer.  It all depends on the time and effort you put into it.  Even a few
hours of work can be enough to produce an adequate jointer plane.

--

Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: raolson@cornflower.wpd.sgi.com (Robert Olson)
Subject: Re: Woodworking watchwords
Reply-To: raolson@cornflower.wpd.sgi.com (Robert Olson)
Organization: sgi
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:33:42 GMT

In article <BrDzrp.E8M@pgroup.com>, lfm@pgroup.com (Larry Meadows) writes:
|> In article <spitz.711058279@gambatte> spitz@parc.xerox.com (Larry Spitz) writes:
|> >
|> >"We're not buliding a piano here"
|> 
|> or
|> 
|> "It ain't a bloody art project"
|> -- 
|> Larry Meadows		The Portland Group
|> lfm@pgroup.com

I was working on a community improvement project recently building 
redwood benches where each team was led by a professional builder.  
My team was led by a guy who repeatedly said "this ain't the Taj Mahal 
here" and used the tools of the trade to make things fit.  That is, hammer, 
sawzall, clamps.  The other guy moved almost as fast but his stuff fit the 
first try.  Maybe my guy was right in a dollars and cents kind of way, but 
I know which one I would hire to work on *my* house.  Sure, most of the 
defects in my team's benches wouldn't be noticed by people using them.  
I see the flaws every time I go by there, though.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Subject: Re: finish for wood camera used outdoors
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: 27 Jul 92 13:33:11

In article <1992Jul25.005919.2159@beaver.cs.washington.edu> franz@cs.washington.edu (Franz G. Amador) writes:

   Is there an FAQ on wood finishes?  I don't see one.  I've nearly
   completed a wooden camera that I will be using outdoors where it might
   get a little damp, and I need to choose a finish for it.  I'd like a
   clear finish that dries hard and provides good water protection.
   Going to the store leaves me amazed at the variety of finishes out
   there and at a loss of how to choose.

   What's the difference between varnish, shellac, lacquer, tung oil,
   etc?  How does one choose between them?

A varnish is a polymer type finish.  The liquid varnish chemically 
reacts to form a surface film that hardens and protect the surface.

A lacquer (both shellac and lacquer) is a finish dissolved in a 
solvent (alcohol for shellac and lacquer thinner for nitrocellulose
lacquer) which evaporates and leaves a built up finish.  Usually one
needs more coats of a lacquer as these layers are thinner.

Oils are just what they sound like.  You apply them and they sink
into the wood.  They provide minimum protection.  Like varnish,  the
oils polymerize over time.  Be careful here as some oils sold,  like
raw linseed oil,  aren't meant as finishes by themselves.  Raw
linseed oil will never dry (boiled is fine though).

For your project,  I'd use polyurethane varnish,  which is very
water resistant and very protective.

--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: More on 3-phase power
Date: 29 Jul 92 20:51:54 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Jul27.163432.6302@microsoft.com>, stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson) writes:

> OK, what's a SCR and a TRIAC?  What do the acronyms stand for, and 
> what electrical behavior do they exhibit? (I'm trying to get an 
> understanding of why one of these is benficial.)  Also, how are
> they wired into the 3-phase circuit?  Are they rated, like most
> other components, to handle 220V?
> 
> These sound interesting, but I'm getting conflicting feedback.  Some
> responders have said a rotary converter won't cause *any* problems
> on the input side of the line, but this thread implies there *will* be
> potential problems. WHat's the real story?
> 
> 
[bunch of other postings wondering about 3 phase SCR circuits]

SCR's are used in 3 phase circuits wired as a 6-leg bridge.  This converts 3
phase power to controlled DC.

Rotary converters are 3 phase motors with only one phase winding energized.
The other phase windings act as rotating transformer windings so that the
output is three phase power.  Their use is similar to any large motor, and
they typically reflect a highly inductive load back to the power system.
Disconnecting them abruptly can cause inductive voltage spikes.  Starting
them causes an inrush current similar to any transformer or motor.

SCR or TRIAC based converters generally produce 360 Hz square wave noise
which clearly has odd harmonics at least to the 11th.  They are likely to
be more compact and weigh less than a rotary converter, since the rotary
converter must be about 1.5 time the current rating of the total load it will
supply.  That is, if you are running a 5 Hp 3 phase motor, your rotary
converter is essentially a 7.5 Hp motor.

GGP