HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tmark@cognet.ucla.edu (Terence Mark)
Subject: [F] Flower shrimp information requested
Originator: tmark@regulus.cognet.ucla.edu
Organization: UCLA Cognitive Science Research Program
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 23:45:36 GMT

A few days ago one of my shrimp shed its' casings. It is now absolutely
beautiful: a bright red. This has prompted me to learn more about them.

Can someone provide information about such shrimp ? For instance,
what do they eat (and should I make special provisions for them in
a community tank) ? How often do they shed ? Can they be sexed ?
Are they difficult to breed ?

Thanks in advance, 
Terry


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: loe@empress.lmsc.com (Richard S. Loe x45014)
Subject: Goldfish Black Spot Disease
Keywords: Goldfish
Reply-To: loe@empress.lmsc.com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 17:49:15 GMT

My pet store diagnosed the cause of my goldfish's death
as black spot disease. He sold me a bottle of a bath treatment
from Aquatronics. He said it was a new disease and that their
was nothing in the literature. He did not know the cause
(Organism. transmission, incubation period etc.)
I could treat the remaining goldfish but I am new at this and
am concerned about stressing the fish. None now show symptoms
(many small black spots around the head and tail as well as
ragged fins. Death is rapid ~24 hours). Also need to know if
I should sterilize the tank which is a month old.
If anyone has any information pleae email me at
loe@dipl.rdd.lmsc.lockheed.com
-Richard
From: John Opsomer <jo14@cornell.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Discus Question
Date: 23 Jan 1993 22:32:20 GMT
Organization: Cornell University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: cu-dialup-0305.cit.cornell.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7
X-XXDate: Sat, 23 Jan 93 22:36:05 GMT

In article <1993Jan23.043556.20141@Princeton.EDU> Aaron Stanley Madsen,
asmadsen@phoenix.Princeton.EDU writes:
>I'm curious as to how long it takes for one of
>these guys to achieve full size.  When I got 
>"Moses" about 3 months ago, he was maybe 3 inches,
>and now he's coming up on 4.  All of my references
>list 6 to 7 inches as full grown, which should be
>fine for my 20 gallon tank - I'm just curious
>when, as I have a few other fish in there now
>and it's going to get too crowded for my taste. 
>(I need an excuse to get a bigger tank, anyway.)
>
>Also out of curiousity, has anyone gotten their
>discus to eat TetraBits?  Maybe I'm too generous
>with the frozen food...

That last comment is very surprizing!  TetraBits is my discus' favorite
food (except for live food, of course...) and the few other discus
keepers in my area report the same observation.  I guess that you will
have to get him used to it gradually, mixing it in with other stuff.

As for the size issue: not all discus reach 6-7 inches (unfortunately),
because of crowding and/or underfeeding.  In fact, discus eat like
(little) pigs, and if you really want to grow a nice discus, I'd
recommend feeding him 3-4 times/day as much as he can eat, and do at
least one 25-30% water change every week, preferably more often.

A last remark: discus are much happier in a group when they are little,
and at least in a pair when they are older.  So if you're going to invest
in a bigger tank, you might want to get him a few friends also.  At
first, it will most likely seem as if your discus will pick on the other
ones, but that will stop as soon as they have decided "who is the boss".

John Opsomer
From: sdebol@data.med.umn.edu (Steven Debol (Nelson))
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Salt mixes
Date: 27 Jan 93 15:44:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: news2.C1Irr1.IGq
Organization: University of Minnesota

In article <C1HqG7.5v8@hpchase.rose.hp.com> dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy) writes:
>Patti Beadles (patti@hosehead.intel.com) wrote:
>: sylvia@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Sylvia Budak) writes:
>: >I could do my massive water change with this new salt without the aquarium
>: >having that milky appearance.  There was just a hint of this with the Coral 
>: >Life salt, and it vanished within an hour.
>: 
>: Hmm ... milky appearance?  How long are you letting the water stand
>: before using it?  Except in rare emergencies, I always let my water
>: age overnight at a minimum, and usually more.  From everything I've
>: read and heard, freshly mixed saltwater should never be put into an
>: aquarium.
>
>I have similar experiences to Sylvia's. I can mix some Instant Ocean in a
>5 gallon bucket, throw in a power head, leave it for several days and
>there will still be undissolved salts in the bucket. Reef Crystals on the
>other hand dissolves instantly. My water source is basically melted snow pack
>and has very little in the way of dissolved minerals, etc...
>
>: Patti Beadles  503/696-4358 | I don't speak for Intel, nor vice-versa.
>
>Dave Sheehy
>
I originally replied to Sylvia directly but I'll add my two cents here.
I mix up my Instant Ocean salt in 5g drinking water bottles--and I've
marked the water line when exactly five gallons of water is in there.
From what I can remember (I've never tried this "experiment" directly),
the only times I've ever had trouble getting the salt into solution is
when I didn't have at least 5g of water.  Even if it was just slightly
lower than the 5g mark.            

Of course, this is probably just a coincidence but it can't hurt
to check if you've got enough water...


------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,
Dept. of Microbiology              soldier, but don't get the idea
University of Minnesota            it's psychological." 
sdebol@lenti.med.umn.edu                        --Frank Burns
------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: david-j.smith@analog.com (David Smith)
Subject: Choosing fish supplier, Cichlids for beginners??
Followup-To: rec.aquaria, alt.aquaria
Originator: smith@orion
Organization: Analog Devices, Inc.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:58:23 GMT

I am beginning to set up a 34 gallon long tank for the first time, after 
keeping two tanks (unsuccessfully) several years ago in college.  If I knew 
then what I know now (i.e., that rec.aquaria existed), I'm sure that I would 
have been much more successful the first time around.

I have two basic questions, neither of which were covered in the FAQ files.

1. How does one go about choosing an aquarium supply store/pet shop to buy
   fish from?  Are there any special characteristics that I should look for
   in the way that they manage their tanks, activity level of the fish, etc... 
   It's always quite dismaying when I walk into a shop that sells fish, and I
   find four or five dead fish floating in a single tank (WHY wouldn't they 
   monitor this CLOSELY??)  I would like to evaluate the stores in my area, 
   so I know who I'll (eventually) be buying fish from.  That way, I'll be 
   able to send extra business their way.

2. I'm thinking about keeping cichlids.  Is this recommended for beginners?
   If so, which ones may be kept together?  Are there any combinations that
   I should avoid?

Since these are general interest questions, please post replies, rather than
sending email (unless this is unavoidable).  I'll archive all replies, and
post a summary.

Thanks!
Dave.
-- 
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------
   David Smith                           email: david-j.smith@analog.com
   Analog Devices, DSP Division          phone:           (617) 461-3404
   3 Technology Way, Norwood, MA 02062   FAX:             (617) 461-3010
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Sexing Melanataenia Bosemani
From: cmartin@idicl1.idi.battelle.org
Date: 27 Jan 93 12:25:43 EST
Organization: IDI-Dublin
Nntp-Posting-User: cmartin

Does anyone out there have any information on sexing Melanataenia Bosemani
(Boseman's Rainbows)? A friend gave me approx 100 as fry, of which about 30
have survived to maturity. I would like to attempt to pair some. Other than
variations in size and color intensity they all look the same to me.

-- 
: Christopher Martin		         cmartin@idicl1.idi.battelle.org
| Information Dimensions Inc.
| Dublin, Ohio  43017-3569               I speak only for myself.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: schwarz@esrican.uucp (Brian Schwarz)
Subject: Mantis Blues
Reply-To: bschwarz@esri.com
Organization: ESRI Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 02:39:44 GMT

Well, well, well...

I've decided that it was high time I rid my tank of the
mantis shrimp.  I've had no luck at all finding out which 
rock he has chosen as is residence.  Until last night.  
I finally spotted him in the largest of my live rock pieces.
This piece is also home to a nice feather duster and a 
brittle starfish.  I removed the piece and placed it in 
a bucket hoping that he would come out in search of water
(recommended by someone).

The brittle starfish did seek out water and I was able to rescue him.
Unfortunately the feather duster is unremoveable and the 
mantis has not yet exited.  It's been a day since I removed it.

Do you folks think it will eventually come out?  Any comments
or suggestions?.

My bigger problem, however, is this.  I noticed - about week or
so ago - many small (approx 5-8mm long and .5-1mm wide) crustacean like
critters moving around on the live rock after the lights went out.

I didn't think much of it; I often find I don't recognize many
creatures on the live rock (esp. at night).

Now I have this sick feeling that my mantis has left me with many
of it's youngin's.  I'm not 100% sure on the mantis ID of these 
small critters but they are somewhat similar in shape.  They have
antenae and the tail/body is sort of curved, like that of a
lobster.

While checking out the small critters I noticed two tiny
bristleworms (ie. 2cm).  I have already removed 3-4 of these
worms (approx 10-15cm) and have spotted 3 remaining.

The disappointment of these realizations has led me to question
the time and money I've devoted to this hobby.  Sure I have enjoyed every
minute, but does this mean I have to rid my tank of all the live rock 
and start again?

Is there any creature which will feed on these young mantis shrimps 
(if thats what they are)?

Has anyone ever had this sort of unfortunate luck with mantis shrimps?

Thanks in advance for responding,

Brian




-- 
_|_| Environmental Systems Research Institute, CANADA     
_|_|                                
        bschwarz@esri.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: vvrcd@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (ROBERT DIBACCO)
Subject: Cichlid - Severums
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 25 Jan 1993 10:18 EST  


Since everyone is posting their experience with severums I thought I would
give my worthless opinion.  I have two lemon severums that were very docile
as babes but now at 6 inches are very aggressive but mostly with each other
although they hate angelfish.  They killed one of mine.  They ignore the 
other fish in my tank, though, so I am not adding or removing the other 
current inhabitants.  The others consist of 4 medium sized tiger barbs, 2
full-grown blue gouramis, 2 large danios, and 1 small red-tailed shark.  
All are doing fine, but like I found don't put angelfish in with severums.  
They definitely don't like them.  Overall, they are aggressive but not 
nearly as aggressive as other cichlids I have had in the past.

=================================
Bob DiBacco (Sverdrup Technology)
NASA Lewis Research Center
vvrcd@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov
Phone (216) 826-6673
=================================
From: fxm3@po.CWRU.Edu (Frank Mularo)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) How often to change water?
Date: 27 Jan 1993 17:32:29 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc12.ins.cwru.edu


 I am a computer illiterate, so I can't pull quotes from other's
posts, but I felt a need to answer this marine water change sub-
ject.Bryan Milligan states that he doesn't change water in his 
tanks and after six months, everything is ok. My experience is 
that water changes are essential to a marine tank's well-being.
Granted, many people feel that a tank with live rock can be bal-
anced enough between reduction of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate
and denitrification so that nitrate does not build up, so there
is no need for water changes. However, I would be willing to bet
that the majority of marine tanks out there have no live rock at
all, and water changes would be the only way of keeping nitrate
levels low. Also, given the tendency of most fishkeepers (well,
my tendency, anyway) to overfeed, water changes are the best way
to keep the tank clean and free of detritus, so that phosphate
and nitrate don't rapidly build up and contribute to bad water
guality and undesirable algae. Water changes are the best way to
replace trace elements, as well as maintaining a good buffering
capacity. I think that many marine fishkeepers feel that if the
nitrate level is not building up, a water change is not necessary.
However, nitrate is not the only compound that builds up in a 
marine tank. Phosphates, acids, phenols, and many other compounds
can build up in a marine tank, and if they are not removed or re-
duced by water changes,can adversely affect water quality and
fish or invert health. Our protein skimmers, polyfilters and ac-
tivated carbon  can only remove so many things from the tank, they
are not 100% efficient. I have seen a tendency of marine fish-
keepers to dump tons of chemicals into a tank to maintain a cer-
tain buffering capacity, an exact pH, or whatever. A marine tank
is not a science experiment. There are living creatures in them
to which we are obliged to provide a quality existence. For them,
the least stressful way to do that is to feed well, keep our tanks
at the right temperature, and do regular partial water changes.
My 70 gallon tank and my 55 gallon tank get 15% water changes 
every two weeks and everything thrives in them.
 I yield my soapbox to someone else.

Frank Mularo   CWRU    Cleveland Oh.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jpenix@uceng.uc.edu (John Penix)
Subject: Re: cichlids
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:44:27 GMT

In article <C16KHz.KBB@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu (Bill Konrad) writes:
>Not a flame--just correcting some inaccuracies:
>
>In article <1993Jan20.201608.26629@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>
>tes0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (THOMAS EDWIN SCHMIDLIN) writes: 
>
>>As a rule, most SA Cichlids are vicious. 
>
>Actually, most of the commonly available South American cichlids tend
>to be more peaceful than their Central American or African rift lake
>relatives. Among the relatively peaceful SA cichlids: angelfish,
>discus, festivums, and most of the many varieties of dwarf cichlids.
>I don't have direct experience with them, but I understand that many
>of the geophagus species are also relatively calm. The most aggressive
>SA cichlid I can think of is the Oscar, and I believe it's
>aggressiveness is more related to its voracious appetite than to an
>intolerant nature as with some other cichlids.
>
I agree fully with the above espically about the oscar.  >
>
> If you want to keep some angels in
>>the same tank (I should point out that angels are also cichlids), it is
>>important that the angels be much largere than the other cichlids.  It has
>>been my experience that, unless there is a lot of room for them to move around
>>(ie. not too many fish) the angels get beaten up pretty badly.
>
>In my experience, angelfish are totally inept at defending themselves
>against any sort of aggressor, no matter what size. 
>
I actually had an angel in with some large S.American cichlids including
a 10" oscar.  There was plenty of room in the tank and he did just fine.
It was pretty amusing.
>
>-- 
>Bill Konrad
>konrad@mace.cc.purdue.edu 


-- 
John Penix                 Wife:    "It was sex and drink that killed
jpenix@uceng.uc.edu                  your uncle, sex and drink!"
University of Cincinnati   Husband: "Ya, he couldn't get either one
College of Engineering               of 'em, so he shot himself."   -Benny Hill
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: scullyl@prism.cs.orst.edu (Lyle Scully)
Subject: Re: (F) [F] Severums in a community?
Organization: CS Dept, Oregon State University
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 06:39:37 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
X-Posted-From: prism.cs.orst.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: sol.ctr.columbia.edu

: What size (in approximate diameter -- they're essentially duscus-shaped fish,
: right?) would you call "good sized?"

: 				-Matt

Sorry I should have stated that. They are roughly 3 inches in length
now. I got them when they were babies. Anything that survies past 2
inches to me is "good sized". Oh one more thing....They did munch on
my pair of white cloud mountain minnows. Or I assume it was them. The
others seem to peaceful to have done it. :)

Lyle

--
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+  Lyle Scully                 +   What is left when honor is lost?   +      
+  scullyl@prism.cs.orst.edu   +         -- Publilius Syrus           +   
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: maierj@edmund.cs.andrews.edu (Joey Maier)
Subject: Re: cichlids
Organization: Andrews University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:41:56 GMT

>I don't have direct experience with them, but I understand that many
>of the geophagus species are also relatively calm. The most aggressive
        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I concur.  The only thing that mine ever did was live up to his name.
Everyday, he would carry all  the gravel to one side of the tank.  The
next day, he'd put it all on the opposite side. 



Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10270 sci.aquaria:1905 alt.aquaria:6684
From: sya@ecmwf.co.uk (Adam Bracewell)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][B] Plan for populating 1st Marine tank
Date: 21 Jan 93 09:19:06 GMT
Organization: ECMWF

>>I have noticed in my reef diving experience that butterflys always travel
>>in pairs.  Ever think about putting two of the same type in?  My guess would 
>>be that if you put in two they will pair off anyhow.  Has anyone ever
>>noticed the pairing of butterflys or angels in a tank?

I believe you may have problems putting two of either in a tank. They are more likely to fight like
mad than pair off. In their natural habitat there are lots of places to hide and lots of partners to
choose from. Can you reliably sex these guys anyway?


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Adam Bracewell                                     
  European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts 
  Shinfield Park, Reading RG2 9AX, England
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Disclaimer: These are my personal opinions, and not those of my employer   
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mhatz@nyx.cs.du.edu (Macs Suck!)
Subject: [M] Newbie questions, cowfish and live rock...
Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 17:46:24 GMT


My reader goofed up my first post of this ....
***********************
After reading the story about the poor cowfish and the response that live rock
may cause a "parasitic siege" of sorts, my questions are?

1)  What should you visually look for on live rock before you add it to 
reduce the chances of "bad things" being added to the tank?

2)  How dangerous is it to add live rock to existing tanks whether they are     
reefs already or non-reefs?

3)  What can be done to minimize the chance of parasitic attack when new rock
is added?

I am a newbie and will be setting up my first marine tank this weekend.  I live
in Colorado and the water has some serious copper problems.  I would like to
add live rock and go with inverts.  The exisiting tank is a friends 55 gallon,
It is a "sterile" environment ie nothing but fish and dead coral decorations.
It is populated by 1 damsel (I wanna trade it away) and a clown I will keep.

4)  How can I get the copper out of the water and decorations/gravel that is
already in the tank?  Would it just be easier to trade away the 2 fish and
toss all the tank contents to start over with "virgin" materials?

5)  One last question..I would like recommendations for a 55 gallon reef
population.  I would like all the fish to get along and hopefully be half
way sociable too.  I would like to add a shrimp or two, anemones and
corals.  Any suggestions would be very welcome.  I have 20 years of fresh
water experience and am on the edge of making the "big switch".

Thanks!

Mike

PS any Colorado Springs or Denver or Pueblo marine types please drop e-mail 
so I can bug you directly! :-)

  
===============================================================================
|	mhatz@nyx.cs.du.edu	Mike Hatz	Colorado Springs, CO  USA     |
|								              |
|		Macintosh:  The Etch-a-Sketch of the Nineties!		      |
|									      |
|			Politcally Incorrect and Proud of it!		      |
===============================================================================
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10282 alt.aquaria:6691
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] flying fox vs. pl*co
Date: 22 Jan 93 03:44:34 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> I want to purchase either a pl*co or a flying fox to take care of algae in my 
> 15 gal. (high) freshwater tank.  Currently I have 4 leopard danios and 4 serpae 
> tetras in the tank.  Are there big advantages to one versus the other?

I may be wrong, but I bet you're talking about a Chinese Algae-eater, rather
that a Flying Fox -- they do look similar, but I don't think 'Fox's graze
algae.  Anywho, if this happens to be the case, I'd say a Chinese Algae-eater
would be the best choice.  Pleco's eventually get _really_ big (a foot or more)
and I don't think any species of Chinese Algae eater get bigger than 5 or 6
inches, most staying small than that.  I have a Chinese algae-eater in my
5.5gal tank (which grew _LOTS_ of algae/have lots of light) and the glass stays
crystal-clear now!

				-Matt
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky)
Subject: Trip, Public Aquariums
Keywords: looking for information
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:36:42 GMT

I will be in Europe on business in a few weeks and if I have time I
would like to visit a public aquarium of two.


I will be in the following locations:

London England, Oslo Norway, Stockholm Sweden

Any information on public aquariums in these three locations would be
appreciated.
-- 
     ||  // // ,'/~~\'   Fred Kratky		fred@mks.com 
    /||/// //|' `\\\     Mortice Kern Systems Inc.     (519) 884-2251
   / | //_// ||\___/     35 King St. N., Waterloo, Ont., Can. N2J 2W9
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Green and Black Brine Shrimp?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 02:15:00 GMT

In article <1k2094INNoc0@shelley.u.washington.edu> brucehuy@u.washington.edu writes:
>in the last week I've noticed that some of the brine shrimp have turned
>green or black.  I'm not exactly sure if the shrimp have suddenly turned this 
>color, or if they just have grown to a large enough size to notice the 

Supposedly the colour depends on the diet, but I have also noticed the colour 
differences in the shrimp that can't be just explained away by that.  

I think there is a variation in colour among the specimens in the same
culture that is genetic in nature.  If anyone has a better explanation, I'd
like to hear it -- mine sounds rather doubtful.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria