HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: VU@GODZILLA.SCH.SYMBOLICS.COM (Vu Ngo)
Newsgroups: rec.video
Subject: Showcasing the LD collection :-)
Date: 13 Apr 92 21:16:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: VN.19920413211612.3.VU
Organization: The Internet

Hi,

My LaserDisc collection is growing.  Since it is a sizable investment :-),
I feel it deserves better exposure than just standing on a dark shelf under
my staircase the way it is now.  So, I am looking for some tips as to give
the collection more visibility, better display, clearer categorization.

1. Are there better cabinet for storing, say 100 or more discs??.
2. When I watch a disc, I like to have the jacket in full view also (kind
   of adding to the enjoyment).  Is there some sort of wall display for
   the jackets, maybe enough for 5,6 favorite selections??.
3. Do you store discs alphabetically, or under some categories similar
   to that of the Laser Video File, or the Image catalog??.

Am I making any sense?? :-).  Thanks.


-- Vu Ngo
From: mfcdbarn@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Darryl K. Barnes)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Small Spinners for Small engines
Keywords: Wanted Small Spinner for small engine
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:33:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Hope someone out there can help me.

I am looking for a 1 3/8" spinner for a cox pee-wee .020 engine.  I am in the
process of modifying a very small commercial stick/tissue kit for micro-RC
flight and I need a spinner for the kit.  The manufacturer put one in the 
plans but after a call to the company, they don't know where to find one
either.

If anyone can help me, I would really appreciate it.

Darryl Barnes
From: david@baervan.nmt.edu (David Fritchman)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: R/C flight simulator
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:18:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: nmt.1992Apr9.191831.1309
Distribution: na
Organization: Petroleum Recovery Research Center, NMIMT


     I hope this subject has not been covered in the past, but it
came up recently in the office.
     Does anybody know of a R/C plane flight simulator on
microcomputers (preferably of the MS-DOS type)?  The typical flight
simulator "games" show flight from inside of a cockpit.  What is
being looked for is the simulation of the visuals of a model plane
being flown from the ground, eyes about 5 to 6 feet (1.5 to 2
meters) from the ground, etc.  Any information on this subject will
be appreciated.

--
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
x                  David Fritchman    david@baervan.nmt.edu               x
x                                                                         x
x                           Sic pilum iactum est.                         x
From: seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Is it OK?
Date: 11 Apr 92 08:47:34 PST
Organization: Not an Organization


  I was wondering if it was OK to re-publish articles from my Newsletter
(BARCS News) in this News Group?  Would it step on any toes or be helpfull?

---Sean---
From: harrisl@unssun.nevada.edu (Larry Harris)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Fuel Survey
Keywords: Keep Your Head To The Sky....
Date: 11 Apr 92 02:38:14 GMT
Reply-To: harrisl@unssun.nevada.edu (Larry Harris)
Organization: University of Nevada, Reno


I can't reach you using your email address....8^).....
Here is the results of my weekend fuel usages.

Location: Reno, Nevada
Fuel:     Omega 10% (summertime)
          Omega 15% (wintertime)
Flying:   Sport 
Engines:  2c .40 .45 .61 and 4c .70 surpass

I hope this helps you with your survey results.

D
D
D
D 
D
D
D
 
D
D 
D
B


__
"The brakes were useless, the car was wandering. The rear end was coming around.I jammed it down into Low, but it made no difference so I straightened it out
and braced for a serious impact, a crash that would probably kill me.....
"My heart was full of joy as I took the first hit, which was oddly soft and
painless. No real shock at all....Yes. These huge white lumps were not boulders.They were sheep."
                           "Fear and Loathing in Elko"
                                Hunter S. Thompson
__
From: miked@syscon.rn.com (Mike DeMetz)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: R/C flight simulator
Date: 13 Apr 92 13:32:41 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Syscon International - Corporate Headquarters

david@baervan.nmt.edu (David Fritchman) writes:

>     I hope this subject has not been covered in the past, but it
>came up recently in the office.
>     Does anybody know of a R/C plane flight simulator on
>microcomputers (preferably of the MS-DOS type)?  The typical flight
>simulator "games" show flight from inside of a cockpit.  What is
>being looked for is the simulation of the visuals of a model plane
>being flown from the ground, eyes about 5 to 6 feet (1.5 to 2
>meters) from the ground, etc.  Any information on this subject will
>be appreciated.

>--
Dave Brown's Flight Simulator for Helicopters or Airplanes
Availible for IBM,Apple II Commodre 64
Least expensive but not very good compared to others though version
3 for IBMs is a big improvment.

Ambrosia Microcomputer's Aerochopper for Helicopters and Airplanes
Availible for Atari ST,Amgia and MAC (working on PC version)
Very good

Digital Wonderwork's Skylark for Helicopters (working on airplane version)
Availible for IBM (386,EGA/VGA recommened but works on 286)
Top of the line.

I have Aerochopper for ST and Dave Brown's. Three club members have Skylark.




?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
! Mike DeMetz                                          -----|-----          !
! Secretary-Michiana R/C Choppers                   *>=====[_]L)            !
!                                                         -'-`-             !
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Subject: Re: Rubber engine mounts?
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1992 16:57:18 GMT

In article <Ydql7I200WBN41QXEg@andrew.cmu.edu> Michael Oliver Muller 
<mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
> A question about niose and vibrations:
>     
>     I am wondering about engine mounting systems that use rubber
> isolaters

>  3.  Are the vibration absorbing qualities really significant? (Do they
> help extend the life of your radio system?)

I lost a GP Sportster 60 to vibration in 1989.  I have used soft mount 
systems exclusively on all my planes.  The particular system that I am 
using is the Sullivan system with the backplate bolted on to the rear of 
the crankcase (used to be a Planes N Things products when I bought them).  
The first thing I noticed (GP Kaos, APC 11x8 prop, and OS .61 SF with muffler) was that I could HEAR the propellar due to the significant reduction in airframe noise (almost like the sound a weed-wacker makes).  Second, when you hold the plane at full throttle, the vibration in the fuselage is almost 
non-existent.  By far, the most noticeable difference was the reduction in 
noise.  My current setup is the same soft mount system, OS .61 RF ABC-P, 
APC 12x11 prop, and tuned pipe, turning about 10,200 RPM.  My plane is 
quieter than all of the .25 thru .60's being flown.  I would say that the 
vibration reduction qualities are excellent.  One manufacturer advocates the use of eighth-inch firewalls with there soft mount system since the vibration is reduced by such a large factor.

One other note, it pays to use a larger diameter and/or higher pitched 
prop to complement the soft mount system.  Lower RPM adds to the reduction 
in noise.  Be careful not to over-prop your engine.

>  2.  Do they rob your engine of a significant amount of power?

As far as robbing power, I believe it IS measurable (the power loss), but 
I dont think it is noticeable!   I sure haven't noticed a loss in power.

>  4.  (Most importantly) Do they reduce the noise level, and do they make
> the engine sound more realistic?

Yes, they reduce the noise level, but if you want realistic sound run 
4-cycles!

Just another plug for the backplate soft mount systems.  They make it 
extremely easy to remove the engine for maintenance, and you dont have the hassle of drilling and tapping the engine mount.


Michael
From: jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Steve Jahr)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: 2 stroke vs. 4 stroke engines
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:35:06 GMT
Organization: Old Programmers Home

In rec.models.rc, santo@pictel.com (Santo Wiryaman) writes:

> In article <ericw.702083560@hobbes> ericw@hobbes.amd.com (Eric Wedaa) writes:
> >Any comments on 4-stroke vs 2-stroke engines.  I'm considering
> >joining a club near me (Pioneer Club in Santa Clara, CA) that 
> >has restrictions against 2 strokes.  What are the effective
> >differences between the two types?  Fuel types? Fuel efficiency?
> >etc?  

> 4-stroke
> --------
>  - Operates with larger prop at lower RPM which gives a pleasant
>    (scale) putt..putt..putt sound.
>  - More fuel efficient than 2-stroke
>  - Lower power/weight ratio than a 2-stroke
>  - Leave considerably less oil on fuselage

I have to somewhat disagree with this one.  I have admired four strokes
but after watching a couple of flying buddies get thumpers, I am having
second thoughts.

One reason is that while there is less exhaust residue on the general
fuselage, there is *tons* more in and around the engine compartment.
The reason for this is that four strokes "breath" in and out of the
front bearing.  On piston down strokes semi-burnt fuel and oil are
blown/sprayed out of the front bearing and on up strokes whatever
happens to be around is sucked in... including dirt and other
abrasive engine unfriendlies.

The other thing that has soured me on 4 strokes is the power output.
In order to get equal power to a .40 sized 2 stroke, you need to go
up considerably in displacement and cost.  I think I'll just stick
with muffled tuned piped 2 strokers.

It's too bad that the knee jerk reaction to sound complaints it to just
*prohibit* certain classes of engines.  The mufflers that come on most
engines, both 2 and 4 stroke, are close to useless.  On the other hand
the *stock* extra baffle on my OS FP 15 makes it so quiet I can hear
the air whistling over the plane.  It is much quieter than *any* four
stroke I have ever hear... almost as quiet as an electric... and yet I
couldn't fly it at the Pioneer field because it's a 2 stroke ):

Steve Jahr
jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com
From: mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu (Michael Oliver Muller)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: 1/4 scale J-3 cockpit?
Date: 15 Apr 92 19:14:44 GMT
Organization: Junior, Mechanical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I am planning on building a quarter scale Sig Piper J-3 Cub this summer.
I am looking for a cockpit kit for this airplane. Does anyone out there
in netland know of any available kits?

Thanks,
Mike Muller
mm7q@andrew.cmu.edu
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Controlling Glow Plugs
Date: 10 Apr 92 14:27:06 GMT
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <1992Apr7.205112.14722@sfu.ca>, larrie@beaufort.sfu.ca (Larrie Simon Carr) writes:
> 
> I am looking a building a little glow plug power box
> (12V to 2V and 1.5V converter) for my brother.  I looked
> at an old version which had three resistors in it.  It 
> doesnt work well as the 2.0V tends to fry the plug in a 
> few seconds.
> 
> The big question is what is more important?  Should the
> current through the glow plug be controlled, or the voltage?
> Both cases are easy to implement with a MOSFET and a 
> variable resistor.
> 

I don't really understand your question.  You want to have a way 
to control the current thru the plug element.  On my power panel, 
about 3 amps gives a nice bright orange heat to the element.  The 
only way I know how to alter the current in a fixed resistance 
circuit (glow plug) is to alter the voltage that the plug sees.
Organization: Junior, Mechanical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 21:45:32 -0400 
From: Michael Oliver Muller <mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Controlling Glow Plugs
	<1992Apr13.190224.3831@cbnewsd.cb.att.com>
Distribution: na

From previous discussion, a glow plug has a resistance of about 0.5
ohms, after it gets hot. 
Would the following circuit work?


               _____________/\/\/\/\_____________....________
              |                3.5 Ohms                      |  
              |                                              \
           ------  12V Battery                               /   Glow plug
             --                                              \   0.5 Ohms
              |                                              /
              |                                              |
              |__________________________________....._______|

        Ohm's law: V = RI
        Assuming a 3 Amp current, and that the glow plug heats up 
        instantaniously,
                   12 = 3.5(3) + 0.5(3)
                   12 = 10.5 + 1.5
                   12 = 12

Why doesn't a simple circuit like this work? There is a three amp
current through the glow plug, and a 1.5V drop across it. It makes
sense, yet no one markets this type of circuit. How about replacing the
3.5 Ohm resistor with an adjustable resistor to allow for variations in
different glow plugs? (Do adjustable resistors exist?)

Any comments?
    Mike Muller
    mm7q@andrew.cmu.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: amg@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (alan.m.gopin)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Suggestions for Off-Road Track.
Date: 16 Apr 92 19:27:26 GMT
Organization: AT&T

From article <92107.121537IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>, by IO10046@MAINE.MAINE.EDU:
> 
>      This past fall, we off-road racers from this area lost our
> area track due to finacial reasons.  So, me and a few of my
> racing friends are going to start our own track.  We have a good
> place to make it (NO RENT!) and have the possiblity of also
> having an indoor on-road track. What I need to know is a few
> specs for a good track.
>      What is the best track materials (ex. clay, sand)?
>      What makes the best walls? (tires, boards, nothing)?
>      What should the width of the track be (4 feet)?
> 
>      Any other suggestions/ ideas would be great.  What is your
> local track like?  Any magizine articles on the subject out there?
>      Thanks,
> Aaron Brasslett
> University of Maine

ROAR rules call for a minimum continuous width of at least 8
feet. My personal experience is that you want some portions of the
track to be at least 10 to 12 feet wide to allow for
passing. Also, ROAR rules call for the walls to be at least a two
by four on end and they should overlap away from traffic to
prevent an edge that might catch a car from showing. 

Sand is a bad track surface, it gets into everything and does
damage. It also requires a lot of maintenance to keep the track
drivable. Clay is probably your best surface.

You will need a drivers stand that is built to meet the local
building codes (VERY IMPORTANT to keep the local building
inspector from having it torn down). The higher the drivers stand
is the better, with optimum being the equivalent of the roof of a
one story building. Think about handicap access (i.e. a ramp) when
you build the drivers stand. If it is on the roof of a building,
you can use that building for radio impound and tech. Most major
tracks do this. Also, try to set the drivers stand back from the
track a distance equal to its height, and not less than 10
feet. This will allow all the drivers to see all the track without
having to lean forward and block each other's views. Make the
drivers stand long enough to accomodate 10 drivers, at least 30
feet.

When doing track layout, make it challenging, but not so difficult
that it is undriveable. You will need a long flat straightaway in
front of the drivers stand to start the race from. The timing
bridge should be a the beginning of this straight and the last
turn should be fairly tight to insure relatively low speed through
the timing bridge for accurate counting. An alternative is to put
the timing bridge on a short straight just before the last
turn. The first turn should be a wide sweeper to allow traffic to
get through the start with a minimum of pileups.

				Alan Gopin
				
-- 
Alan M. Gopin
AT&T Bell Laboratories
gopin@homxb.ATT.COM
att!homxb!gopin
From: fhl2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Fu H Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: RC cars
Date: 7 Apr 92 03:47:30 GMT
Reply-To: fhl2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu
Distribution: rec.models.rc
Organization: Columbia University


Hi.  I am new to the rc cars.  Can anyone suggest any magazine or literature
to read?  Also, which radio control system is better, FM or AM?  It seems to
me that FM is more reliable than AM in open area.  For the electronic speed
control, how does it work?  Is it a current control source?  I am a E.E.
student so I understand some basic operations of electronics and circuits.
Furthermore, I read a post before about the different types of NiCd batteries.
A term like "Linear charging" was mentioned.  Can anyone tell me more about
this?  The above questions may have discussed before.  If you prefer not to
answer it thru' the post, drop me a email.  My email address is
fhl2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu .  Any comments are welcome.  Thanks in advance.

Good luck and be well.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mju@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (michael.j.urban)
Subject: Re: Controlling Glow Plugs
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 19:02:24 GMT

In article <wdu8GCe00UzxM1dIhu@andrew.cmu.edu> mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu (Michael Oliver Muller) writes:
>
>>I don't really understand your question.  You want to have a way 
>>to control the current thru the plug element.  On my power panel, 
>>about 3 amps gives a nice bright orange heat to the element.  The 
>>only way I know how to alter the current in a fixed resistance 
>>circuit (glow plug) is to alter the voltage that the plug sees.


>
>Two questions about this comment:
>
>1.     Does the resistance change as the glow plug heats up?
>
>2.     What is the resistance of a glow plug?
>
>Mike Muller, mm7q@andrew.cmu.edu


A cold glow plug is pretty much a straight wire, with negligible
resistance.  As it heats up, the resistance increases to the point
that a 1.5 volt battery will push about 3 amps throught it, and
Mr. Ohm's law says this is about half an Ohm.  These
are rough orders of magnitude type numbers.  You will find a lot
of variation with plug type and manufacturer.

The original question, about whether to control the voltage or
amperage, was reasonably clear to me.  The circuit involves volts,
amps, and ohms.  The resistance (ohms) is fixed by the plug.  You
can control one of the other two, either volts or amps, but the final
one has to be allowed to assume whatever value the laws of the universe
decide on.  If a constant voltage power supply is used (e.g.- a battery),
then the plug will draw some amount of current equal to the battery
voltage divided by the plug resistance.  Here, you are controlling the
voltage, but the current is allowed to be what it may.  You can also
use a constant current power supply, and push some fixed number of
amps (say 3, or 5) through it.  The voltage across the plug will then
follow Ohm's law, but will be uncontrolled.  Another way to say it is
that the voltage becomes the independant variable.

Now.  The best way to drive a plug is to control the current.  Because
the resistance varies with temperature, you need some feedback,
and probably some electronics, to do the job right.  My advice is to
purchase a Sonic-Tronics power panel, which has a feedback controlled
driver circuit.  Most power panels use a power transistor in a series-
pass linear power supply configuration to derive 1.5 volts from the
12 volt battery.  The Sonic-Tronics uses a 555 timer IC circuit to
pulse 12 volts on and off to the plug rapidly.  The pulse frequency is
controlled by the feedback circuit, which senses the average current
through the plug, and adjusts the pulse frequency accordingly.  Actually,
it might be the pulse width.  Either will work.

I have no connection with Sonic-Tronics, and there may be other
power panels out there that have active plug driver circuits.  If
anyone knows of any, I'd like to hear about them.

There have also been a few articles in the magazines about building
active driver circuits.  Most of them are 10 to 20 years old.

Mike Urban
From: ultra10@vax1.mankato.msus.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Epoxy Substitutes
Date: 7 Apr 92 01:26:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: vax1.1992Apr6.192641.1672
Organization: Mankato State University

I am new to this group. I have been flying for about 2 years. I have a question
about epoxy sustitutes. I build my own styrofoam wings and would like to know
if anyone knows of any inexpensive substitutions for epoxy resins for joining
and fiberglassing. In the past I have used regular wood glue with some
porous, non-streching fabrics to join a wing. I holds well, is a little
heavier but it takes a while to dry completely.
Thanks in advance
->Rob McBride
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Predicting Servo Failure
Date: 6 Apr 92 14:20:15 GMT
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <1992Apr03.165705.8154@bmerh2.bnr.ca>, petera@bcrka398.bnr.ca (Peter Ashwood-Smith 1600361) writes:
> 
> 
>     Anyone else seen other kinds of in flight failures on the
> actual servo rather than linkages etc?
> 
Yes, I have had servos quit totally in the air - 5 servos in the plane 
and which one goes out?  The elevator.  A soldered wire inside the 
servo came off, it worked fine on the ground for the preflight check.
Just yesterday I found I have a problem with a rudder servo, also 
checks out fine on the ground.  Engine off or idling and it works ok.
Hold the plane and rev it up, and the rudder servo moves left with 
either right or left stick movement, very odd.  
I haven't had time to find the problem, but it's not likely to be a 
metal on metal vibration problem - plastic throttle arm with a ball 
link.
These are relatively new, 
10-20 flights, Hitec #422 servos, which got very favorable reviews in 
the magazines.  I'm not as impressed.
From: kvk@questor.sw.stratus.com (Ken Koellner)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Good Magazines?
Date: 14 Apr 92 20:29:19 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Software Engineering

In article <1992Apr14.153804.24651@samba.oit.unc.edu> urhlre@uncvx1.oit.unc.edu writes:
>Hi,
>   I am considering subscribing to a magazine on RC aircraft.  I am
>interested in opinions as to the qualities of the different magazines.

MHO...

Radio Control Articles (RCM) has the most and best ads.  It's good for
keeping up with what's on the market and current prices.  Some of the
articles are good also, particularly model reviews and contruction.  I
like this one best when I want to look at the pictures.

Model Airplane News (MAN) has the best articles.  I like this one the
best when I want to read.  It's not a bad mag to just flip thru
though.

Model Aviation (MA) is the AMA rag.  It's good if you want a little
everything ie RC, FF, CL, Scale, Heli, Electric, Glider, etc.  It's
also good for keeping up on the state of the hobby as far as issues
like insurance, FCC, flying sites, etc.

I get MA with my AMA membership.  I used to subscribe to RCM but now a
just pick up an issue once every few months to check out the ads and
see what new.  If I subscribed to a second mag, it would probably be
MAN.  A friend of mine gets it though so I just flip through his.



	


-- 
Prohibition goes beyond the bounds of reason in that it attempts to control
a man's appetite by legislation and makes crimes out of things that are not
crimes. A prohibition law strikes a blow at the very principles upon which our
government was founded. - Abraham Lincoln
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc