HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca (Herb Peyerl)
Subject: Adapting Marcato pasta machine for Milling?
Organization: "NovAtel Communications Ltd. Calgary, Alberta, Canada"
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 23:16:18 GMT

Hi;

This christmas someone saw fit to give me a pasta machine
with adjustable rollers so I had this idea that maybe it 
could be modified (not permanently) to serve as a malt
mill... Then I vaguely recall something about this earlier
on in the year but can't remember what the consensus was.

Anyways, my question is: does anyone have any experience with
this? I can see how it would be fairly simple to attach a drill
to the machine in place of the handle.  But I'm wondering about
the rollers.  See; the rollers are smooth and so I'm thinking
that malt wouldn't catch on them and consequently would just 
sit there...

Is this a pipe dream? I'd still like to have the use of the
machine for making pasta so permanent changes aren't really
overly helpful.

Thanx.
-- 
"I was early to finish | hpeyerl@novatel.cuc.ab.ca <Reply-To>   | I brew |
I was late to start, I | peyerlh@cuugnet.cuug.ab.ca             | there- | 
might be an adult, but | #define JANITOR "Network Administrator"| fore I | 
I'm a minor at heart." |    JANITOR, NovAtel Communications Ltd.|   AM.  |
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Help, Beer tastes cidery!!!!????
Date: 4 Jan 1993 18:00:15 GMT
Organization: where?
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com

murphyed1@woods.ulowell.edu (The Butler) writes:
> I was sampling the creations of my latest brewing expidition, and found that
> the brew turned out quite cidery.  Very foul smell, acidy flavor.  I used a
> simple recipie, 1 can light beer extract, 2 lbs. honey, 2 lbs. corn sugar, 1
> package yeast, small amount of hops...
> 
> Any help out there from the beer making gurus? 
> Could it be the terrible amount of sugar?  That was a request, not my own
> decision.

You hit it right on the nose.  NEVER use less malt than other
fermentables if you are making beer.  What you made was closer to a
mead than a beer (3 lbs malt vs 4 lbs honey/corn sugar).  I never use
more than 1 lb. corn sugar per 3 lbs.  of extract, and never use any
honey...

Rick
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: keithr@pathogen.med.umn.edu (Henry Keith Reding (Rogers))
Subject: Re: methanol in beer (going blind)
Organization: University of Minnesota
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:39:38 GMT


In article <Jan.5.23.38.56.1993.26129@pilot.njin.net> pfaffman@pilot.njin.net (Jay Pfaffman) writes:
>Excuse me, but how can one produce poison by distilling beer?  It
>seems that by distilling all you can get it higher concentrations of
>*something* & chances are that it'll be ethanol.
>
>-- 
>Jay Pfaffman, Computer Coordinator        pfaffman@des.edu
>Dwight-Englewood School, 315 E. Palisade Ave.                      
>Englewood, NJ  07631-0489                 201-569-9500
>pfaffman@pilot.njin.net if des crashes . . .

Seismo writes:

"The only chance of producing enough methanol from othervice ok
beer, is distilling a large amount (100 l ?) and drinking the first
few desilitres of distillate. Situation is somewhat different if
there is a bacterical contamination in the beer."


	If Seismo means that bacterial contamination would result
in a larger amount of methanol present in beer, then this is totally
incorrect.  No known bacteria produce methanol.  Bacteria are
only capable of producing alcohols containing 2 or more carbon 
molecules such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol etc.
Some bacteria are capable of consuming methanol for a food 
source but none produce methanol.  I did not want anyone
thinking they can go blind from drinking bad beer.

keith reding
Dept. microbiology
univ. minnesota






Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: spgreg@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Macrae)
Subject: Re: "Green" Beer
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 11 Jan 1993 10:59 EDT  

In article <jdecarlo.541.726759711@mitre.org>, jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo) writes...
>extract, and lager yeast.  The OG=1.049.  Tonight I noticed the beer was 
>beginning to settle so I took a gravity reading -- 1.030.  I also tasted 
>some of the beer and it tasted rather "green".  Now, will this 

The hops flavor which you describe as green will mellow with age.  I just hope 
that you are not planning to bottle at a SG of 30.  It is not done fermenting 
yet!  

You mentioned comparing this beer to Czechoslovakian beer.  Well, the Czech's 
do many things differently than the rest of the world.  The ferment and lager 
in wood.  The boil for 1.5-2 hours.  They lager for 3+ months.  They brew 
light beer with soft water.  The list goes on.  There are recipes that duplicate
parts of each of the Czech style, but I have yet to taste one that comes close
to capturing the whole picture.  Keep looking, and when you find it, let me 
know.


Greg
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: miked@wrs.com (Mike Deliman)
Subject: Re: Propane Burners?
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 21:11:29 GMT

In article <PAISLEY.92Dec29163021@lobotomy.cme.nist.gov> paisley@cme.nist.gov (Scotty Paisley) writes:
>In article <Bzq3vo.HtF@boi.hp.com> rstevahn@boi.hp.com (Robert Stevahn) writes:

>> So, I am left with a few options. 1) Buy a new range (Not!); 2) Use a
>> smaller vessel (Not!); 3) Buy a portable electic burner; or 4) Buy a 
>> propane burner.

>Anyway, my point was that a small propane camp stove works just fine. 
>
>-Scotty

Hi all,

just a quick comment. I've been trying to brew on a campstove in the garage.
It works, but takes a lot of extra TIME! Scotty's comments (deleted - sorry)
about using warm water to keep gas pressure up is valid - I`ve had to do it
every time. Last time, it took nearly 2 bottles of gas for the boil.

Last weekend I got lucky and found a 200,000 BTU cooker at a local offroad
shop. It's a big deal, with a welded steel frame, and 3' legs. I got lucky -
the guy at the shop quoted me $140 for that model, but the sign on the demo
was "$74.99". I got it for $75! I like it because it doesn't sit on the
ground, has a wind guard, is sturdy enough for me to sit on it (should be
able to hold at least 60 gallons of water), and comes with regulators, etc.

I also got an 11 gal propane tank for $15 (new!).

This seems to be the way to go; I should be able to boil 8 gallons withouth
hastle, and at warp speed!

       -mike
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Mike Deliman, 800-USA-4WRS, FAX 510-814-2010, WRS 2400bd BBS: 510-814-2165
        email:  miked@wrs.com (inet)  or [sun,uunet]!wrs!miked (uunet)
   Snail Mail:  Wind River Systems, 1010 Atlantic Ave, Alameda CA 94501 USA
From: Larry.Lund@p12.f79.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Larry Lund)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: All Grain brew
Date: 4 Jan 93 09:27:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: therose.726198371.AA00000

Hello all!
I brewed a very simple all grain brew today and having a problem and don't
know why. I have always been a extract brewer and this was my 1st try. the
ingrediants are as follows.

7lbs of 2row malted barley
1 1/2oz of cascade hops.
5 gal water
1pkg bavarian wyeast

mashed in with 2 gal water and held at 126 degrees for 30min raised temp to
144 degrees held for 30 min then raised to 158 and kept it there for 1 1/2 hr.
Then I sparged with 160 degree water 3 times then put back in the kettle and
brought to a boil for 1 hr. Then I added the hops and continued another hr.
then I slowly poured the wert back thru the spent grains one last time and
added abt 3 gals of water thru the grains to make a total of 5 gals. But when
I check the S.G. it was only 1.020 What happened? Where did I go wrong?? Sign
me perplexed! 8-(

Larry
N7LBP @ W0RLI.or
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: mixing in carboy
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:35:15 GMT

In article <1993Jan4.223759.21852@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu>
 gorski@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (Tom Gorski) writes:

>2:  With regard to stirring or otherwise mixing the priming solution,
>I might give the beer a few gentle stirs with my carboy bottling tube
>prior to racking into the bottles, but by-and-large, I rely on natural
>diffusion in the 5-10 minutes between when I add the priming solution
>and when I start bottling.   Seems to work quite well, as I've never
>noticed any uneveness in carbonation from bottle to bottle on a given
>batch.

Well, mixing up the trub in the carboy shouldn't affect carbonation, just 
the amount of sediment in your bottles.  I used to do what you do and have 
quite a bit of visible sediment in the bottles.

Now I use a secondary *and* a bottling bucket, and you can't detect any 
sediment in the bottle, even during pouring.  

I like that better.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: julie@eddie.jpl.nasa.gov (Julie Kangas)
Subject: Re: Our image as brewers
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Pasadena, CA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:47:09 GMT

In article <9511@verdix.verdix.com> mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist) writes:
>In article <1993Jan10.215018.23337@msc.cornell.edu> srussell@lynx.msc.cornell.edu.UUCP (Stephen Russell,147 Bard,54648,) writes:
>>This is something I _have_ been thinking about, and now that you mention it,
> "Lund Kwysst" means (literally) "One Who Expels Beer From Nostrils While
> Drinking".  So I suggest that in your quest to cleanse r.c.b. you should
> first look to yourself.  I think going so far as a legal name change might
> be warranted.
[...]
>
>Cheers,
>-- Mark LeQuiche


Wouldn't "Mark LeYeast" be better?

Julie (who should change her last name to Klages)
DISCLAIMER:  All opinions here belong to my cat and no one else
From: bobhurt@cac.washington.edu (Bob Hurt )
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: 54 hour fermentation for extract beer?!
Date: 8 Jan 1993 16:28:52 GMT
Organization: UW Computing
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: red1.cac.washington.edu

I tried a batch of Telford's English Ale malt extract with another three
pounds of amber dry malt last Sunday, let it cool for 24 hours and then
pitched the yeast that came with the extract.  Tuesday morning fermentation
began, and it continued (vigorously) until sometime yesterday afternoon.
There's still a little pressure in my fermenter, but no bubbling.  My
beginning gravity was 1.052.  I haven't taken another reading because I
can't believe that it's done fermenting.

Any suggestions on what to do now?  I could use some advice at this point,
being a novice and all.

--Bob Hurt
  bobhurt@u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: copeland@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Jeffrey Copeland)
Subject: Re: Bread with spent grains
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1993 05:02:57 GMT
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

A few months ago during a thread about uses for spent grains there were
some ideas for using them in bread-baking.  Does anyone have any recipes?

Thanks
Jeff Copeland - Atmospheric Science - Colorado State University


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: don@tellabs.com (Donald Leonard)
Subject: Need beginners file
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:45:59 GMT


Could someone please post or email me the latest beginners.z file.
I don't have access to any off site servers. I've tried the suggestions 
in brew.faq about email to the appropriate site with HELP as the text. 
Nothing has worked.

If you think of any other files that may be of interest to
me... I'd appriciate you mailing them also.

thanks in advance!
don

-- 

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Donald T. Leonard	|Honda Sabre	| "Bumpy trails? 
don@tellabs.com		|		|  Don't get mad get rad!"
..!uunet!tellab5!don	|Indy 650	|
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: krs@panther.stortek.com (Kirt Schumann x4563)
Subject: BrewKing Kit How Good?
Organization: Storage Technology Corp.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:54:55 GMT

I received a BrewKing Micro-brewery in a bag for Xmas.  I mixed together
the ingredients before the new year and plan on tapping the bag early in
March.  The mix is an English Bitter, does anyone out there have experience 
with this kit?  How good is it?  Is the kit re-useable?  It appears to be.

I'm anxious to find out what the end product will be like.  Info is much 
appreciated.

Thanks, Kirt

The more you run over a dead cat, the flatter it gets.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kirt Schumann			Internet:krs@panther.stortek.com
StorageTek			UUCP:{...}!ncar!boulder!stortek!krs@panther
2270 S 88th Street		303-673-4563	Fax: 303-673-6039
Louisville, CO 80028-5209
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: morrison@tegra.com (Allan Morrison)
Subject: Re: Our image as brewers
Organization: Tegra-Varityper, Inc. Billerica, MA
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:25:51 GMT


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: nikkanen@ntc02.tele.nokia.fi
Subject: Re: Cara Pils malt
Organization: Nokia Telecommunications.
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 08:52:32 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.192735.17286@ultb.isc.rit.edu>, adw3345@ultb.isc.rit.edu (A.D. Williams) writes:
> 

>  Let me tell you about that all-grain batch- it was a total disaster.
> Not only did it taste awful (I think it was the tannic acid from the
> husks) but it was explosive as well. When I defused the bottles the
> caps flew well over 15 feet and I was left holding a bottle of old
> faithful beer in which pretty much the entire contents turned into
> foam. Oh well, stick to extracts for now, I said.
> 
	Could you perhaps tell us some more details about that batch?
	Like, how much and what grains you used, how did you mash, 
	how long did you boil (with husks??), OG, FG?   I've just
	started all grain brewing myself a few months ago, so not
	an expert (yet B-), but I still think that your problem is
	not cara pils.  Are you sure you didn't bottle too soon?  
	
> bells are ringing in the beer section of my brain. What exactly does
> cara pils malt do, and is my beer going to turn out to be another
> gusher? Is there a way to tell early on so I don't have glass grenades
> in my closet?
> 
	Cara pils gives some sweetness and body to beer as it contains
	unfermentable sugars.  If the batch you made one month ago is
	ok now, it probably will only get better.  

>  I'm watching this batch to see if the lesson is "don't use cara pils
> malt with extracts", but perhaps someone could tell me not to panic
> (or panic- wake the children, call 911, call the bomb squad!).
> 
	DON'T PANIC.  Just relax and make sure that fermentation
	has completed before bottling your next all grain brew.  
	
>  Also, is there anything real obvious why an attempt at an all grain
> batch would produce the results above? (Not enough attention to
> temperature, starch conversion failed, etc etc).

	As you might have noticed, I suspect that your beer wasn't
	completely fermented out.  Generally speaking, in all grain
	brewing the final gravity may vary more than in extract
	brewing, so there's one point to pay attention to.

>                                                  Derrick

				Happy brewing!     /Kari 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: garnett@refuge.Colorado.EDU (Santiago de la Paz)
Subject: Wheat-beer yeast
Organization: Cogwheel Incorporated,Boulder
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 03:19:43 GMT

Does anyone have a list (or just know of) commercially-available wheat beers 
from which it is possible to culture yeast?  I have tried several times to 
culture yeast from Ayinger, and once from Tucher, with no success.

Thanks!

~james

  James Garnett, Network Engineer                               (303) 444-1338
  garnett@cogwheel.com

  Cogwheel Incorporated, Boulder  ***  Producers of low-cost dialup IP routers
                        Boulder-Denver/Hong Kong
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Our image as brewers
Date: 10 Jan 93 16:54:12 GMT
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

Folks, I am concerned about the image that we project to new readers
of r.c.b and the Digest.  

As devotees of this noble passion, we naturally want to inspire those who
are new to brewing, and to imbue them with our enthusiasm for this most
salutary of crafts.  Unfortunately, I am afraid we may fall short of
this aim.

Yes, I'm talking about the fact that two of the regular posters to
these forums have the usernames "gak" and "arf".  Are these the words
that we want others to associate with homebrewing and homebrewed beer?
I am sure you will agree that they aren't very appealing.  "Hey,
would you like to try some of my homebrew?..."  "Gak!! Arf!"

Who knows how many times a reader might be exposed to these words in just
a single issue of the HBD?  All the worse if they don't actually read
the 'From:' header fields, because then these unwholesome sounds
are transmitted *subliminally*.  And who knows how many other crude
and obnoxious usernames have escaped my notice?

Just something to think about.

Happy brewing!
--mark
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc)
Subject: water
Keywords: water, hardness
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:17:12 GMT

Can anyone help me out with some water questions?

The following information is available about my local water supply:

Phosphate:  .3ppm
Chlorine:   .3ppm
Ammonia:    .5ppm
Flouride   1.0ppm
Alkalinity 274ppm
pH         7.4
Iron        .3ppm
Hardness   360ppm

They were not able to tell me the breakdown of the Hardness, but they
thought that it was mostly Calcium.  Does this sound correct?  Our
water comes from an underground "river" which is an old (ice age) gravel
river bed through which water seeps.  I have noticed that when left to 
stand, a white, flaky precipitate is noticable in the water. Is this an
indication of excess Ca?  360ppm seems awfully high.  Would it be a good
idea to boil this water before brewing to lower the hardness?  I usually
don't have to add gypsum to the mash, but I have to add a lot (1+ tsp/gal.)
to my sparge water to get a pH of 5.7.  I have read that adding too much
gypsum can be deleterious.  My beers seem to come out fine, but if I can
make an improvement, why not?

Any help would be appreciated.
Tom

P.S. I have read the water sections in Miller and Papazian.
From: Pat.Goulding@f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Pat Goulding)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Trip to england.
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1993 10:10:02 -0500

Due to unexpected price reductions in fares from Boston to London,
my SO and I are going to be spending a week in England starting 1/18.
Probably 2 days in London then outta town - Wales? Leeds? 
We've done Scotland.  We plan to stay in B&B's and buy an updated 
CAMRA guide as soon as we hit town.
If anyone who's asked for this info in the past could Email it to me,
or if anyone has got suggestions (we have NO itinerary so far) it would be
much appreciated (yes, I have the PUBLIST info).  All About Beer had a 
pubcrawl article in the Nov/Dec 1991 issue (Sept/Oct?) but I can't find
anyone who has the back issues. 
Thanks again! w/o this conference I'd be lost :-)

"stringbeans to Utah..."
From: goddard@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Bart E. Goddard)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: dark beer
Date: 7 Jan 1993 18:18:17 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department at Rose-Hulman
Reply-To: goddard@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Bart E. Goddard)
NNTP-Posting-Host: g214-1.nextwork.rose-hulman.edu

In article <C0GM2F.3J9@news.udel.edu> sex@chopin.udel.edu (Martin Solo Schamis)  
writes:
> Anyway, we were just wondering what exactly makes a dark beer (such as  
Guinness)
> dark, and a light beer light.......any help is appreciated.
> 
> Martin

All true beer is dark.
So called "light beer" is actually a mixture of horsepiss and isopropyl
alchocol.  Many people don't know this, so you can expect them to deny this  
long-suppressed fact. :-)
--
Bart Goddard   
Math. Dept. Rose-Hulman Inst. of Tech.
goddard@nextwork.rose-hulman.edu
From: gorski@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (Tom Gorski)
Subject: Re: mixing in carboy
Organization: Physical Sciences Lab, University of Wisconsin
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 22:37:59 GMT

In article <613@ssdc.UUCP> jbasara@ssdc.UUCP (Jim Basara) writes:
>birkelan@atelm.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland) writes:
>: Is there any reason that I cannot mix the sugar and fermented beer
>: in a glass carboy prior to bottling?  Everyone here tells me that 
>: I must use a food grade plastic bucket, but they don't know why, and
>: I would rather not buy one when I have a perfectly good carboy sitting
>: idle.
>: 
>
>The only important thing is that its a separate carboy (i.e. not the one
>the beer is currently fermenting in).
>
>Otherwise, when you stir in your priming solution, you will rouse up all
>that trub on the bottom.

Well, call me a fool, 'cause that's exactly what I do!

I sterilize and subsequently cool my priming solution, and then slowly
pour it into the carboy with the beer, from a sanitized Pyrex pitcher.

I've thought about any deleterious effects this might have on my beer,
and have concluded the following:

1:  With regard to the bubbling and splashing that occurs during the
pour, a) it's not on a very significant scale, and b) it's probably
just harmless CO2, which is abundant in the carboy headspace at the
surface level.

2:  With regard to stirring or otherwise mixing the priming solution,
I might give the beer a few gentle stirs with my carboy bottling tube
prior to racking into the bottles, but by-and-large, I rely on natural
diffusion in the 5-10 minutes between when I add the priming solution
and when I start bottling.   Seems to work quite well, as I've never
noticed any uneveness in carbonation from bottle to bottle on a given
batch.

In conclusion, I've found that with reasonable exercise of care,
you CAN add the priming solution directly to the carboy with the beer still
in it, and get perfectly good results.  Personally, I'd much rather do it
this way, then have to wash and sanitize another large container, like a
carboy or plastic bucket.
>
>--
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Jim Basara
>     uunet!ssdc!jbasara                "All the other nations are drinking
>     jbasara%ssdc@uunet.uu.net         Ray Charles beer, and we are drinking
>                                       Barry Manilow." - Dave Barry

--Tom Gorski
From: zen@hophead (Nick Zentena)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: water
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 93 16:34:50 EDT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Hop Head Saloon

redfreak@softcopy.ecn.purdue.edu (Thomas Lobonc) writes:
>
> indication of excess Ca?  360ppm seems awfully high.  Would it be a good
> idea to boil this water before brewing to lower the hardness?  I usually
> don't have to add gypsum to the mash, but I have to add a lot (1+ tsp/gal.)
> to my sparge water to get a pH of 5.7.  I have read that adding too much
> gypsum can be deleterious.  My beers seem to come out fine, but if I can
> make an improvement, why not?

        How about instead of adding extra gypsum blending
        your water with distilled water. That will help
        bring down the water hardness. You then can adjust
        things up if need be.

        Nick


*****************************************************************************
I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles!
zen%hophead@canrem.com
*****************************************************************************