HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com (Jack Reed)
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Reply-To: jackr@thorodin.dazixco.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 00:39:50 GMT

In article <28JUL199216495717@rosie.uh.edu>, vpsa3@rosie.uh.edu (Mike Hon) writes:
> In article <1992Jul28.073738.1183@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca>, orban@ciit85.ciit.nrc.ca writes...
> >I am in the process of rebuilding the fuel injection on my
> >'79 Scirocco, which has not been running in the last 5 years.
> >I have a bunch of injectors which are gummed up. I have also built
> >an injector cleaner/tester. My question is that what is the best 
> >solvent to dissolve the gum. I am not thinking of adding it to the
> >fuel, but forcing it through directly the injectors with the tester.
> > 
> 
> Maybe Tolulene?  Comments, anyone?

I would try BG Supercharge. Don't know off hand what's in it, but every good
mechanic I've ever met recommended it as the fuel injected system cleaner of
choice. Try Techron if the price of the BG is too scary.

Jack
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: Question about GM HEI ignition - what does the capacitor/condenser do?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 01:11:52 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.231349.25549@btree.uucp> hale@btree.uucp (Bob Hale) writes:
>>>What function does the capacitor/condenser inside the GM HEI distributor (1977)
>                                                           ^^^
>>>perform.   Is it there as part of the function of the electronics module or
>>>is it simply there for interference/noise suppression?
>>
>>The primary ignition circuit is a resonant one. it has parasitic
>
>Nope.  The capacitor is on the battery line.

Actually, I still differ. When you open the points (or in the electronic
ign case, the transistor turns off), you have a series RLC circuit. If 
you take out the C, you have an "open circuit", and the inductor tries
to discharge by "any means it can"  IE: arc's across the points, or 
zaps the transistor (which may or may not damage it). 

BTW, I don't know what exactly you mean by "the battery line". The condensor
goes across the points. 

>
>>resistance (who really cares, everyhting does  :^) a BIG inductor
>>(the ignition coil) and a capacitor that wt we use to tune it with. 
>>If the condensor is eliminated, the circuit wil no longer be 
>>balanced, and an arc will form (cause air breaks down) when the 
>>points open (the energy from the inductor HAS to go somewhere).
>
>No points in an HEI.

Arguements still apply. HEI uses transistor to break the circuit, Points
use a mechanical switch.

>
>>The arc will pit the points and degrade their contact resistance
>>eventually.
>>
>>>
>>>Do they ever go bad?  Mine is 15 years old.  The car runs fine, but 
>>>I do get some ignition/spark noise on the radio from time to time...
>
>Sometimes these do become intermittent with age but I rather suspect
>that the radio noise problem is related to either bad plug wires or
>to bad ground bonding somewhere in the vehicle.
>
From: vlohia@sun425.nas.nasa.gov (Ved P. Lohia)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Power Loss With Honda Accord
Date: 29 Jul 92 00:42:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: NAS Program, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA

I've Honda Accord 1989 Automatic. This car have 
acceleration problem. For example, when it had only 
25,000 miles, its acceleration went down considerably. 
It would take 2 minuts or so to reach 55 and accel. pedal 
also felt hard. Then, I changed Transmission flued that 
made some improvements in acceleration but not significant. 
Then I put some carburator cleaner in it. That also made 
some improvements but not for long.

If I take my car to hilly area, it would go at most 60.

I would like to hear from experts what could be wrong with
it.

Thanks,

-Ved
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Autolite PowerSeal wires not recommended
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 15:26:50 GMT


I had previously gone on record in this newsgroup saying that Autolite
PowerSeal spark plug wires seemed to be OK.  Yesterday, I discovered
to my dismay that they are not.

My roommate had been complaining about her '87 V-6 Taurus "sputtering"
on acceleration.  I test-drove it and sure enough, it would backfire
when the throttle was tromped.  At first I thought the oxygen sensor
had failed again, since this car had had a similar problem a year ago.
At that time I had replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap and
rotor.  The replacement wires were, of course, Autolite PowerSeals.
All other replacement parts were Motorcraft, the OEM brand.

I changed the air filter, since I knew it was at least 6 months old.
Then I checked and regapped the plugs.  While well used, they looked
OK; the gaps had grown from the original .044" to about .050" or more.
The color of the insulators indicated a moderate lean condition,
normal for a modern fuel-injected motor.

But in the process of removing two of the plug wires, I tore two of
the boots, one completely separating.  The wire inside the completely
broken one had obvious signs of overheating at the termination.  It
appears this wire had never made a good connection, and a year of use
had caused the insulation and the boot to become brittle.  I suspect
that the plastic used in the boots does not stand up well to high
temperatures, and the temperatures behind a V-6 in the Taurus must get
pretty fierce.  But that does not excuse bad terminations right out of
the box.  So much for lifetime guarantees.

I replaced the wires with an "el cheapo" silicone 8mm set (since my
roommate hates to spend money on cars).  The problem seemed to have
been fixed to my roommate's satisfaction.  It appears the plug wire
problem and the larger spark plug gaps were enough to cause the
misfire and subsequent backfire under heavy throttle.

So, my recommendations for spark plug wires:

 * If you're cheap, buy "no-name" wires and replace them every year or
so.
 * If you're a car nut, buy good magnetic-suppression type wires (e.g.
MSD, Mallory, Moroso, Jacobs, etc.) and replace them every 3-4 years.
 * Always use silicone dielectric grease when installing plugs or
wires to prevent moisture-induced misfires.  It's cheap, and a $2 tube
is enough to last several years.
 * DO NOT buy Autolite PowerSeal wires!!

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
    Amateur Taurus repairman
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DIY compression meter
Date: 28 Jul 92 15:50:51 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos.tech, eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
>Dear netters
>
>I thought of making a compression meter by brazing a copper tube
>to an old sparkplug and connect it to a simple manometer.
>
Sure, it should work - *if* you have a high enough ceiling in your
garage/carport.  For example, if the compression pressure is 150 psi,
a water-column manometer would have to be 345.6 feet tall.  I'll let
you convert to metric - it'll still be just as tall.  Of course, if
you use heavy water or only use it outside, the problem is reduced:-)

       (stuff deleted)
>
>How is a compression meter constructed anyway?
>
>Thanks, eur.

Most common pressure gages use a Bourdon tube, essentially a curved
piece of tubing with the end sealed.  When you apply pressure to the
other end, the tube tries to straighten.  As it straightens, the end
moves and this movement is coupled to the pointer with gears or levers.

The bourdon tube approach is probably more practical than a manometer
for home construction, given the height of most ceilings:-)

-DaveP
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevrolet 2.3L bogs down ...
Date: 23 Jul 92 15:06:00 GMT


	"*Something* in the  2.8L gives that engine a heckuva boost - what?"

I think it's more like the 3.33 final drive ratio.  It makes my Eurosport wagon
pretty peppy off the starting line (enough to squeal the tires), although
passing performance above 55 is rather lame.  The 4-speed THM-440C transmission
is also heftier than the 125C that comes with the Tech IV.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bcasper@eos.ncsu.edu (Brian Casper)
Subject: Re: Power Loss With Honda Accord
Originator: bcasper@c00058-100lez.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: bcasper@eos.ncsu.edu
Organization: North Carolina State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 05:44:50 GMT


In article <1992Jul29.004217.4039@nas.nasa.gov>, vlohia@sun425.nas.nasa.gov (Ved P. Lohia) writes:
|>I've Honda Accord 1989 Automatic. This car have 
|>acceleration problem. For example, when it had only 
|>25,000 miles, its acceleration went down considerably. 
|>It would take 2 minuts or so to reach 55 and accel. pedal 
|>also felt hard. Then, I changed Transmission flued that 
|>made some improvements in acceleration but not significant. 
|>Then I put some carburator cleaner in it. That also made 
|>some improvements but not for long.
|>
|>If I take my car to hilly area, it would go at most 60.
|>
|>I would like to hear from experts what could be wrong with
|>it.

My older brother has an '87 accord and was complaining about the
general lack of power.  I asked him about his last tune-up and
he laughed (he's a banker, I'm the wrench in the family...)
Anyway, I pulled the plugs and the electrode had eroded all the
way down to the ceramic.  We replaced them and the results were
immediately noticable.  It idled more smoothly and acceleration
improved markedly.  I would guess the gap had grown to about .25".
-- 
-- 
Brian Casper                |   "I like to study psychologists.  It gives
bcasper@eos.ncsu.edu        |    good insight into what rats are thinking."
  Pinball Consultant        |     -  Dr. Oscar Wesler
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Charging A/C with Freon
Keywords: freon
Date: 28 Jul 92 11:50:32 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: na
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <1992Jul28.001743.25184@eos.arc.nasa.gov> jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey Mulligan) writes:
>ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) writes:
>
>>The largest single source of leaking CFCs are automobile A/C units.
>>The world's 225 million A/C cars each leak around 1/2 lb of CFC-12
>>each year on the average.  The industrial solvent and foam blowing
>>sectors have pretty much cleaned up their act by now.
>>--ghg
>
>What about large air-conditioned buildings?
>Are service personnel now required to recover all freon when servicing
>these large units as they are with auto units?
>
>
>-- 
>
>	Jeff Mulligan (jbm@eos.arc.nasa.gov)
>	NASA/Ames Research Ctr., Mail Stop 262-2, Moffett Field CA, 94035
>	(415) 604-3745

The refrigerant (if it an HCFC or CFC) has to be recovered (in the US)
after July 1,1992.  $25,000 fine for failure to do so, $10,000 "reward"
for those who "turn you in" is possible.

Many building systems use R-22, which is 0.05 the ozone depletion of R-12.
Home central air and window units use R-22 also.  Most building A/C systems
don't leak like the cars.  They do not use rubber hoses, and O-rings, and
are built much better, and use brazed joints.  Some chillers use R-11
(same ozone depletion as R-12).  Some of those are converting to R-123 now.
R-11 is over $400 now for 100lb cans (last night's price).  R-123 causes
testicle tumors in rats at 300ppm.  Human exposure limit is now 10ppm!

Supermarkets are bad leakers in general. I read that the large supermarket
has something 5 miles of refrigeration lines, and 16,000 brazed joints!
They have a refrigerant charge of around 8,000lbs, mostly R-502, R-12, and
maybe some R-22.  (R-502 is a bad ozone depletor as well).  They leak out
about 1/3 to 1/2 of that charge every year!  Refrigerant (Freon) is now the
largest single operating expense for many supermarkets.
--ghg
From: dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Daryl S Spano)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Chevy Bog
Date: 21 Jul 92 21:46:35 GMT
Organization: Loral Western Development Labs

Help! 

I have a Chevy 350 with headers, cam, intake, and Mallory ignition.  The 
carb is a quadrajet 750 from a big block caddy (i think).  I recently
drilled out the primary jets to 76 thousanths (from 72 thousanths) to
correct what I thought was a lean condition. (It bogged when under 190
degrees and on cold days)

Now when above 5000 rpm it seems to sputter (or miss?).  I attributed that
to fuel starvation because it only occurrs in 2nd gear (turbo 350 tranny).
It revs to 5500 easily in 1st and not so easily in 3rd.  So I changed to 
a Holly electric fuel pump (97 gph @ 5-7 psi).  The problem did not
go away.

Anyway, buying a quadrajet book and messing with the carb all weekend,
I have come to the determination that it is not the problem.

The plug wires and plugs check out O.K.

Assuming it's not the carb or ignition, what could it be?
Could the problem be from a valve floating?  I have about 100,000 miles on
the valve springs.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

                                       Daryl
                                       dss@wdl1.wdl.loral.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hejl@aslws01.asl.dl.nec.com (Mike Hejl)
Subject: Re: 86 Camry Spark Knock
Followup-To: hejl@asl.dl.nec.com
Organization: NEC America, Inc. Irving, Texas
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 14:10:14 GMT



Sorry, email failed.

In article <1992Jul22.211447.6140@webo.dg.com> you write:
>I've been having a problem with spark knock (or so it sounds) on
>my 2.0 Litre EFI Camry.  It happens in cold or hot weather.  After
>writing to the NHTSA group, I found that Toyota had a technical
>bulletin stating the pistons had to be replaced in response to
>the problem.  I guess a lot of them were fixed at the factory.

I have the same problem with my SO's '86 Celica with the 2SE 2l (not the 16v).
I've also tried all the tricks you mentioned (I'm an ex-REAL (tm) foreign car
mechanic) plus retarding the timing and adjusting the CO (requires removal of
a sealed plug on the air flow meter).

I now have the timing retarded about 4 deg. and the air bypass valve almost
fully closed.  I also use one heat range cooler plugs (Bosch copper -
Platinums make matters worse!) and run some Techron every 4-5 tankfulls.
Fuel economy has suffered somewhat (from 35 mpg to 31) but it has virtually
eliminated the pinging and still passes smog tests.

You may also want to check things like the aux. air valve and injector seals
for vacuum leaks.

Now, if the ESC (Elec Spark Ctrl) would just sense manifold pressure (vacuum)
and retard the timing sufficiently...


>1.  Retarding the timing (may not help - will lose power)

Can also cause overheating.

>Does anyone know if there is a knock sensor that may be out of
>whack.

There is no knock sensor on any Toys (that I know of) up to about '88
(when I last was a mechanic).  I'm not sure after that.


-- 
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
| Mike Hejl  NEC America, Inc.  Advanced Switching Lab, Irving, TX          |
| hejl@asl.dl.nec.com    I don't even speak for myself, much less NEC...    |
+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Rear brake trouble Alfa Romeo Giulietta
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 09:59:42 -0500

 EV> I bought two Alfa Romeo Giulietta's for $300 and have some trouble.
 EV> 
 EV> As you may or may not know, the rear disc brakes on an Alfa Romeo are
 EV> near the gearbox/clutch in the back. My brake pads are worn, and I'd
 EV> like to replace them.

Evidently you have one of the later Giuliettas, based on the Alfetta. I think
they weren't imported into the U.S.

Before installing new pads, you must completely back off the parking brake cable
linkage adjustments. The pad-to-rotor clearance must then be set to .006 inch.
From: td@babar.inria.fr (Thierry Despeyroux)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: RE. Hydraulic Suspension
Date: 23 Jul 92 11:55:56 GMT
Reply-To: Thierry.Despeyroux@sophia.inria.fr
Organization: INRIA, Sophia-Antipolis (Fr)

In article <1992Jul17.090843.8876@abo.fi>, JLEHTIMAKI@finabo.abo.fi (Janne Lehtim{ki PAP) writes:

|> another car.The newest Citroen XM models have an very complicated
|> active hydro-pneumatic suspension with a lot of sensors and computers and
|> therefore quite impossible to put in another car.

I think that the XM comes in two version. One with the traditionnal
hydro-pneumatic suspension, one (high end only) with the active 
(electronic) one.

-- 
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|     Thierry Despeyroux      | email: Thierry.Despeyroux@sophia.inria.fr   |
| I.N.R.I.A. Sophia-Antipolis | phone: +33 93 65 77 07 fax: +33 93 65 77 66 |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
|        walk: 2004, route des Lucioles, 06 Valbonne-Sophia-Antipolis       |
|        mail: B.P. 93 / F-06902 Sophia-Antipolis Cedex / France	    |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:58:43 GMT
Subject: Re: head gasket on a taurus
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, prmx@vax5.cit.cornell.edu writes:

>Hello there folks!
>I am about to replace the head gasket on my '86 Ford Taurus 2.5L engine.
>My question is: Torque the gasket once, or should I slack the bolts at some
>interval, then re-torque them.  If the later, at what interval.

Just follow the recommendations of the gasket manufacturer.  There will
probably be instructions in or on the box that the gasket comes in.

As an aside, I have a Felpro gasket guide.  Some head gaskets require
retorquing, some don't.  Those that do are usually retorqued after 500
to 1000 miles.

Note:  When you retorque head bolts, loosen and retorque the bolts ONE AT
A TIME, in the original torque-up order shown in the service manual (or on
the information with the head gasket).

Another Note:  A number of Ford engines use "stretch" bolts for bolting
down the head.  These bolts must be replaced every time, and are never
retorqued.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andy@b30.ingr.com (Andrew Brezinski)
Subject: Re: Brake Peddle problem.
Organization: Intergraph
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 17:11:59 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.121354.27832@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca> leath@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Stephen Leath) writes:
>The brake peddle on my 85 Dodge Caravan stops after being depressed about 1
>inch. It is like hitting a steel wall. THe pads are new the rotors have been
>refaced and the calipers have been checked, any suggestions ? What would be
>the symptoms of air in the brake lines ?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Steve Leath  UPEI Computer Services.
>
>

If your old pads were REALLY worn out, then replacing them has given you
a much shorter pedal travel (after all, the brake system is purely
mechanical and if your pads are suddenly thicker, then they don't have to
travel as far either to make contact with the rotors).  If the vehicle
is stopping properly, (you push the pedal and it stops) then you have
nothing to worry about.

If you press the pedal and it stops before the vehicle does, then you have
a problem.  But I would assume then that the problem would be "How do
you replace the front end on a Dodge Caravan?"  :-)

Air in the lines would result in a spongy pedal and you would have to
"pump" the pedal to stop.

Andy Brezinski
Intergraph Corporation
Huntsville, AL 35894-0001

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10442 rec.autos.vw:4471
From: exxon@tigger.jvnc.net (Exxon Research)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Cleaning injectors
Date: 31 Jul 92 12:35:18 GMT
Organization: JvNCnet, Princeton University, NJ
Originator: exxon@tigger.jvnc.net

Something that may work well (and this works on airplane engine
injectors...) is to go down to the local gun shop and pick up 
some rifle cleaning solvent.  Soak them in that overnight,
or, use that solvent in an ultrasonic cleaner...works every
time...

Bryan D. Boyle       | The opinions expressed are my own and are
Senior Engineer      | NOT those of my company.  They only provide
Exxon Research and   | the machine...
Engineering Co.      |
bdboyle@erenj.com    | Complaints?  send to /dev/null...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 23:33:16 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.194950.9173@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>
>people have been explaining why an automatic is better for moving
>heavy loads (torque multiplication).  i'll buy that, but why
>are there so many dump trucks and semis with manual trannies?
'
My understanding is this is because they need lots of "dynamic range".
IE: they need to be able to pull 20 ton up a hill, yet also be able to go
60 MPH.  A manual tranny can provide more "gears" for less complexity.
We used to have a 25 (?I think) ton international (tandem axle) dumptruck
with an auto trans.  Worked ok, just left you thinking you weren't in
control......

-Eric


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tom_santos@taligent.com (Tom Santos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: High Perfomance Tires
Date: 30 Jul 92 19:25:02 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1

I need to put new rear tires on my 1990 300ZX.  I have been looking at
both the Yokohama AVS and A008's.  Does anyone have any experience using
these tires or have a better suggestion?

Thanks
--Tom--
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: DIY compression meter
Summary: can I make a compression meter myself?
Keywords: compression, DIY
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 11:31:03 GMT

Dear netters

I thought of making a compression meter by brazing a copper tube
to an old sparkplug and connect it to a simple manometer.

Will this work? Should I make a one-way valve in the tube?
Will I measure the pressure in the cylinder, or in the whole
of cylinder, plug and tube? 

How is a compression meter constructed anyway?

Thanks, eur.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharma@cis.ohio-state.edu (sanjay sharma)
Subject: Starting problems with my car
Originator: sharma@bagpipe.cis.ohio-state.edu
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 20:18:27 GMT


I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza and it has been behaving rather erratically for
the last few days.

The problem is that when turn on the keys to start it, it doesn't start.
There is no clicking sound either. The batter is perfectly fine as I can
turn on the headlights. Also, when I turn the keys the headlights don't go dim.

This behaviour is not consistent either, for there are times when it starts
without any problems.


I think  that  there is something wrong either with the starting motor 
or solenoid. It might just be a loose connection as it does start sometimes.

Any ideas. Also can any one give me an estimate of getting the starter motor/
sloenoid replaced.

Any help will be appreciated,

Sanjay Sharma
Department of Computer and Information Science
The Ohio State University
Columbus, OH 43210