HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tli@caldera.usc.edu (Tony Li)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: FAQ: README and administrivia
Date: 16 Apr 1992 01:05:01 -0700
Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA
Reply-To: tli@cisco.com,patti@hosehead.hf.intel.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: caldera.usc.edu


    Introduction to FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for *.aquaria 

The monthly posting to rec.aquaria and alt.aquaria will consist of this 
introduction followed by the FAQ in four additional postings.

The FAQ (and any other useful information that is submitted) will be 
available through anonymous FTP on jerico.usc.edu (128.125.51.6), 
located in Los Angeles, California.  Login through ftp with 'anonymous' as
your username.  The FAQ files are located in the directory pub/aquaria,  and 
they currently consist of the following:

File name     | Topics                      |  Last update | Size
--------------+-----------------------------+--------------+------
FAQ.README    | Introduction & update notes | Apr 14, 1992 | 2814
FAQ.beginner  | Beginner stuff and books    | Feb 11, 1992 | 25329
FAQ.filters   | Filters and Air pumps       | Nov  4, 1991 | 21310
FAQ.mail      | Mail order and Magazines    | Feb 11, 1992 | 5567
FAQ.water     | Water quality and disease   | Nov  4, 1991 | 11651


Correspondence regarding the FAQ should be directed to Tony Li
(tli@cisco.com) AND Patti Beadles (patti@hosehead.hf.intel.com).

Rev 1.3   2/11/91

Added Oleg's recommendations on books.  Updated phone numbers for mail
order houses.

Rev 1.2   10/4/91

A few other minor administrative changes.

Rev 1.1	  6/19/91

Minor administrative changes, ran it through a spelling checker.

Collected the contributors names and addresses into a "phone book" at the
end of this file.  This will make it easier to change addresses when people
move around, as the address is only listed in one place.

Rev 1.0   3/23/91

UPDATE NOTES:  What's changed in the FAQ:
-------------
I thought I would just write this when I enter new stuff into the
four part FAQ.  The newest set of the FAQ (dated 3/23/91) contains:

-    stuff about moving aquaria,
-    yet another modification of the protein skimmer description
     (will we ever get this right :-)
-    a brief (very very brief) description of the history behind
     *.aquaria
-    useful data on weight/volume of water
-    brief description of air pumps
-    miscellaneous stuff.

You may notice that I've begun to include names (and addresses) of
other authors.  I did not include this practice when we were just
booting up because it would have been too confusing, and there were
quite a lot of contributors.

If you would like to be included in a list of contributors (and be
famous through posterity), please re-email me.  (Unfortunately, to
conserve disk space and preserve sanity, I purged old inputs).

Thanks to y'all.

Tim Yiu


Contributors:
Oleg Kiselev			oleg@veritas.com
Timothy Shimeall		shimeall@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil
Pat White			patbob@sequent.com
Tim Yiu				tyiu@mipos3.intel.com
???				jj@alice.att.com
Spass Stoiantschewsky		spass@midas.wr.tek.com
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu
Subject: fish bollolexals
Reply-To: xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1992 02:08:10 GMT

in my opinion fish boles were the were(still are) the worst thinges to be 
put on the markit. the books i read to start- befor i had fish sead to start 
with a tack of 30 ofr more galens. i started with 10. i am into freshwater fish
some one segested that you put a bata in the boal-bad idea battas nead to be 
ceep at temps of at lest 82 no mmore then 86 degrees farehight to be in there
best helth. try some uthere labrinth fish that doesnt need as strikt temp
control

ELF-KIN  	trying to once agen reright the anglish laguige
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: elf-kin
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 92 10:27:12 GMT

In article <1992Apr11.135056.4213@news.iastate.edu> xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu writes:
>preveas unreadabal measage dou to my not yet having figuered out how to erase
>with my computer threw the modom.
>
>ELF__ -KIN 	computer illiterit and prowd of it.
>		trying once agen to reright thenglash language.

This kid is obviously not at all ignorant about aquaria, so I regret having
to place him in my KILL file, but I simply do not have the time for his/her
deliberate language twists.  I have a hard enough time with the normal
English...
-- 
Oleg Kiselev, at home			....use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Subject: Re: Ants invading Drosophila culture
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 16:55:50 GMT


jmartine@zeus.calpoly.edu (Joe Martinez) writes:
>Does anyone have any suggestions???

May not be practical, but I've seen people put a small dish
of water around such things as chair legs, etc. in India,
where ants are a big problem. Just make sure the 'moat'
is big enough that the ants can't get across.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:2979 rec.aquaria:3744
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: clogging sponge filters
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Distribution: na
Date: 8 Apr 92 19:26:08 GMT

I have a question for you sponge-filter users.  I have been using a
Tetra Brilliant Super Pro sponge filter on a 100 gal tank with 4
5-inch common goldfish for a couple of months now.  In the beginning
(the goldfish were about 3-inches long then), the filter only needed
cleaning every 2 weeks.  About a month ago, I started having to clean
it every week, or it would get clogged and the negative pressure of
the airlift would cause the sponge to contract from its normal 6-inch
diameter to more like 3 inches, and the water flow would stop completely.
Now, even weekly isn't enough.

Now, I admit the fish are growing, but I can't help the filter has
something to do with it too.  Do these sponges have a lifetime after
which they clog more and more easily and have to be replaced?  If
so, mine sure didn't last very long!

The way I clean it is to take it out of the tank and repeatedly
squeeze it in a bucket of tank water, then dump the thoroughly brown
water and repeat 2 or 3 times.  This *is* how you clean them, right?

Any net.wisdom out there for me?

Robert Enenkel

P.S.  I've ordered two Tetra Pond sponge filters as backups in case my
battle-scarred Eheim 2034 canisters, still limping along, decide to
"buy the farm".  Perhaps I made a mistake!
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: poison zuccini?
From: Eric Schweitzer <ERSHC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Saturday, 11 Apr 1992 13:04:10 EST
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

In article <1992Apr11.101234.12460@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us>,
oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev) says:
>
><questioning my post about dieing fish>
>
>But not the pleco, which ate that zuccini?  Don't you find this strange?
>
actually, the pleco didn't seem to have eaten much, and he NEVER eats the skin.

<hard to identify fish remains>
>Meaning what?  Was she chewed up or fungused or what?
Chewed.

>>Since the tank has been running and happy for a while,
>How long is "a while"?  I do not consider any new tank stable until 3-6
4.5 months, the only fish loss since then was a 2 year old cardinal, and a
female swordtail of at least 1.5 years.

>>I assume the zuccini was poisoned
>If there was enough "poison" on that zuccini to kill all those fish just by
>being in the same water, don't you think it would be just a bit deadly for
>human consumption?  If theer was some sort of pesticide residue, a simple
>rinse in tap water should have been enough to wash off most of it.
Many folks believe that certain forms of life are more sensitive to
to particular poisions than others. Thats how antibiotics work, and
why birds are found in mines. I assume that some fish are more sensitive
to some pesticides than we are. BTW, the zucini was rinsed.

>>Is my assumption of bad zuccini unreasonable?
>It sounds ratehr bizarre and the fact that your pleco is still alive
>suggests that it's simply a coincidence.
>
Of course, the pleco is by far the largest of my fish, and body mass can
effect the actions of poisons. And, he never seems to eat the skin.

Since the post, another cardinal has died, as has a male betta. I managed to
see them both go. The card seemed normal until a few minutes befor the
end, then lost orientation, and a minute later was dead (belly up on the
gravel). The betta seemed OK until his last 5 minutes, then started to
spend some time nose down near the gravel. He died that way. Both these
fish were inspected carefully (as careful as I can get) and if it haden't
been for a lack of motion, I'd think them perfectly healthy.

I am continuing to change lots of water, and no one has died in the past
24 hours.

It is curious to me that none of the scavangers seem effected
(pleco, kholi loach, 2 clown loaches). That the frogs aren't
effected is not a suprise, they ain't even fish.

If it is coincidence, what might have caused it? Water chemistry
remains 'good', pH at 7.2 (same as it ever was), ammonia 0,
nitrites 0, nitrates < 12.5 mg NO3/l (as low as the test kit goes).
>Oleg Kiselev, at home                   ....use the header to find the path
-eric
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3112 rec.aquaria:3941 sci.aquaria:824
From: philt@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (philip.tomaskovic)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: 802 powerhead as a wet/dry sump pump
Date: 7 Apr 92 15:58:22 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T


I was told that an 802 powerhead was adequate for running a small
wet/dry filter and had sufficient strength to pump up 5 feet from
the sump to the top of the tank.

I bought one and it's strong enough but I'm having trouble attaching
my return hose to it. A 1/2" ID hose fits inside the powerhead
exhaust, but it's easily loosened and can pop out. The outer diameter
of the exhaust seems too big for 5/8" hose and too small for 3/4"
unless a very strong clamp (non-metal of course for marine use) can
be attached.

Can other people that use 802's for sumps tell me what hose and
fittings they use?

Thanks
Phil
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3071 rec.aquaria:3884
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Ants invading Drosophila culture
Date: 14 Apr 92 09:50:01 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

jmartine@zeus.calpoly.edu (Joe Martinez) writes:
>Does anyone have any suggestions???

2 options: 
1) really fine screen on the culture -- use paint straining nylon mesh
sold at paint shops

2) if your cultures are in narrow-neck bottles, then a wad of filter floss or 
cotton balls in the mouth of a nottle will allow air in and keep the ants out.

-- 
"... i heard the droning / in the shrine
	     of the sea-monkey / palace of the brine ..." -- Pixies.
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu (John W. Bowden)
Subject: Re: Arrowanas
Originator: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Reply-To: bowden@convex.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 02:37:32 GMT

From article <1992Apr13.222004.5545@solbourne.com>, by debra@solbourne.com (Debra Frances):
> Anyone know anything about Australian or Asian Arrowanas?  anything about
> breeding  them?


There was an article on a successful Schleropages formosa spawn
a while back in TFH.  The fellow had a male and a female in a
200+gal tank and he kept the tank isolated so that they would not
be disturbed.  He monitored the tank via closed circuit TV and video-
taped them at the same time.  This fellow worked over ten years to
spawn them.

I think that spawning them in captivity might not be feasible in
aquariums (despite this account.)  Ten years is an awful long wait.
Maybe in 2-3000gal vats it might be more realistic to hope for
success.  Of course, if you are in a hard water area that is an
awful lot of RO water to maintain the water quality in such a vat.

If you have a small fortune to sink into the endeavor, I think that
it would be quite interesting to try to spawn them.  I think that
the black and silver south american arrowanas would be equally worthy
subjects for such an attempt.  I suspect that somewhere there is a great
deal of data on pond breeding the Schleropages formosa (probably in
asian aquaculture journals.)  Finding such references would probably
be worthwhile if you are really interested in the species.

John

Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3106 rec.aquaria:3933
From: dbell@cup.portal.com (David J Bell)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Ants invading Drosophila culture
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 22:01:23 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world

>Help! my Drosophila cultures are being invaded by ants! 
>The only problem now is how to keep the ants away from the jars! 
>Does anyone have any suggestions???

>Joe Martinez  (jmartine@ares.calpoly.edu)

I would suggest setting the culture jar in the center of a 
shallow pan of water, or even better, of light oil such as
mineral oil. If you use the oil, you should actually place
the jar in a small dish in the center of the pan, so as not
to drip oil into the aquarium when "harvesting".

The ants will not be able to cross the "moat" to the jar,
no matter how tempting it smells! This has been standard
procedure for many years with beekeepers: set the legs of
a hive bench in pans of motor oil...

Dave
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: clogging sponge filters
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 10:00:12 GMT

In article <92Apr10.170326edt.187@smoke.cs.toronto.edu> enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel) writes:
>Please!  I'm innocent!  I've just got it hooked up to an air pump, bubbling
>away...

Bubbling hard enough to suck the sponge up to 1/2 its size?!  You must be
using some serious air flows there, Robert.

>>Switch to less filthy fish, Robert.  Try neons.
>Too bad I can't even keep a wee gourami alive...

I know you.  Your  idea of "wee" is something that does not get over
18" long.  If you get yourself a dozen sparkling gouramis in that 100 gal
tank you would not need to use any filter or even do any water changes if
you light the tank the way you light your appartment jungle -- just put in
some elodea and top off the evaporated water...  Small fish, Robert, are
things that don't get over 4" long.  Or ever 2".   Try them some time,
you'll like them.  Just think how much money you'll save on fish food.

:-)
-- 
Oleg Kiselev, at home			....use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (D Keith Higgs)
Subject: Re: Does ick medicine harm FW clams?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 21:01:56 GMT

RE:
In article <13APR199214350807@mars.lerc.nasa.gov> seove@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (ERI
C OVERTON) writes:
+
+Does ick medicine harm freshwater clams?
+Inquiring minds want to know.
+
+Eric Overton

   My initial reaction is to say YES.  the most common Ick medications are
either copper sulphate or malachite based which makes them destructive to
crustaecians.

     Anybody out there know better?

Keith
-- 
D. Keith Higgs     The Ohio State University    Rm. 040-N Main Library
DATA+@osu.edu      University Libraries         1858 Neil Avenue
dhiggs@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu                Columbus, Ohio  43210
--------------------------------------------------phone--(614)292-6314--
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: on filtres
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 92 10:23:46 GMT

In article <1992Apr10.155130.28849@news.iastate.edu> xcz13@isuvax.iastate.edu writes:
>tetra has a sereis of filters out right now that are cheaper then boxand easer then the normal 'good' box/cartrige/over theside ` side filters. It diosint oesn't cause break in shook and is highly recamendied by Aquareum fi Fish-they did an entier right up on is  telling what it does and how it workes . they seemed impresed. look for tetra spung filftercs were you git fihsh spellers.
>
>ELF-KIN -- trying once agen to rewright the english languge

Nice work, kid.  Did you spend a lot of time trying to make that posting
totally unreadable?  I am mighty impressed.


-- 
Oleg Kiselev, at home			....use the header to find the path
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3122 sci.aquaria:832 rec.aquaria:3965
From: PLai@cup.portal.com (Patrick L Faith)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Reef & Breeders News Journal - call for papers
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 21:17:41 PDT
Organization: The Portal System (TM)
Distribution: world


>I assume that there will be a peer review of (at the very least) the 
>scientific portion of this newsletter?  I'd like to know what the procedure
>for this would be.

On complicate papers, the editors will receive the prelim. article
and make a quick determination if the article needs to be re-written,
if it looks generally O.K. the article will be sent to someone that
has signed up to be a reviewer.  The reviewers comments will be sent
to the article writer and the editor ... the article writer will then
send the editor a final draft.

On more basic articles, like how to save energy cost by maintaining your
chiller properly, the editor might just ask for a quick re-write,
and by-pass singular peer-review to save time ( if the editor knows something
about chiller maintanence). This is so basic things don't bog down
the peer review cycle.

Before the entire journal is printed, the entire newsJournal will be
sent to a couple of sanity checkers that have a good overall concept
of reef breeding ... and if nuthing else spelling.  After the alpha
copy is read by a couple of these reviewers , and everything looks ok,
the newsjournal will be sent out.

As a general concept though, reviewers will not be profesional aquarist,
but hobbiest with some good experience.  The review process will in many
cases be a learning experience for the reviewer - asking questions to
the article write to understand and clarify what is written.  When (not if)
errors are found after the articles are posted, the editors will try
to correct the mistake in the editors notes column.

The newsJournal has two parts, one part news, one part Journal - only the
journal articles go through the review process.

  
Please Sugestions Welcome !              PLai ( PLFAITH )

p.s. Reviewers for temperate and tropical articles still needed.
     Also no one has yet signed up for the tropical editor position.
     We have a few people say they will write articles from time to
     time, but I'd like a bigger list of people to call on when
     we are short articles - like write now.

....
From: neuzerli@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Andy Neuzerling)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Aquarium cooling
Date: 15 Apr 92 21:38:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: mentor.45642
Distribution: na


I am doing some research on cooling aquariums. I would like to know
how all of you out there cool your tanks. Please post or email me
your responses. Don't be afraid to copy a previous response.

Thanks
    	Andy Neuzerling
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt)
Subject: DIY Skimmer design question
Reply-To: walter@optimla.aimla.com (Walter Hunt)
Organization: OptImage Interactive Services Co., L.P.
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 02:53:56 GMT



	Hello all.

	I've been looking over the DIY skimmer plans I've snagged off the net
for the past year or so, and comparing with the picture Patti posted. I'm about
to put together my tank, and need to get cranking on this stuff.

	I've run into a few questions I need some help with:

	In Patti's picture, and in SOME of the designs I've seen, there is an
open T-connector on the output, with some vague references to adjusting this to
adjust the foam level.

	How does this work? I assumed you would adjust foam level by adjusting
water flow through the thing. Am I missing something? If either method can be
used, is one better than the other? Why?

	Also, I am trying to think through what it would take to convert this
later to a venturi-type skimmer. From some of the posts/e-mail I have seen, I
assume this can be done by just replacing the input with a power head, modified
a bit to create the gazillions (I believe that was the technical term used) of
bubbles necessary. Once again, am I missing anything here?

	One problem I have is that I would like to work without a sump, if
possible. I plan on running this tank solely on skimmer(s), so would like to
avoid adding unnecessary equiptment. Is it possible to plumb a surface skimmer
direct to the input of a skimmer, and put a pump on the output to take it back
up to the tank? And can you put a powerhead on the input side later, for venturi
effect?

	Thanks.


-- 
Walter Hunt					walter@optimage.com
OptImage Interactive Services Company, L.P.	walter@aimla.com
11040 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A. 90025		uunet!{optimage,aimla}!walter
(310) 445-5718
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3049 rec.aquaria:3861
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Wonderlight
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Distribution: na
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:04:25 GMT

A while ago someone was going to give us a name and address for
Wonderlight self-ballasted mercury reflector lamps.  I forget who
it was, but I, and a few others, I gather, are very interested.
Please post!   Robert Enenkel
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:3007 rec.aquaria:3800
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
Subject: Re: clogging sponge filters
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Distribution: na
Date: 10 Apr 92 21:05:04 GMT

oleg@llustig.palo-alto.ca.us (Oleg Kiselev) writes:
>Robert Frederick Enenkel writes:

>>or it would get clogged and the negative pressure of
>>the airlift would cause the sponge to contract from its normal 6-inch
      ^^^^^^^
>>diameter to more like 3 inches, and the water flow would stop completely.

>What the hell are you doing to the damned sponge?!  Did you stick a
>powerhead on it or something?  

Please!  I'm innocent!  I've just got it hooked up to an air pump, bubbling
away...

>I bet you have so much dirt wedged deep inside your sponge that you can
>never clean it thoroughly.  That's what you get for using a powerhead.

But... but...

>I have in the past cleaned these filters by pushing tap water at full 
>50 psi through its hole until the water runs clean.  This probably kills
>all bacterial cultures, but I do it as a part of fiter sterilization when
>I break down a tank, so I expect to have to re-seed the filter.

Now there's an idea.

>Switch to less filthy fish, Robert.  Try neons.

Too bad I can't even keep a wee gourami alive...

Robert Enenkel
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria