HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tdelahunty@gems.vcu.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Pellet Stove Info Sought
Date: 28 Dec 92 22:56:47 -0400
Organization: Medical College of Virginia

 
 
 
        Hello!  
 
        I am in the process of purchasing a pellet-fired fireplace insert 
        for my 3 year old wood frame construction 3200 Sq. Ft. two-story 
        home.
 
        My questions and concerns include:
 
               1. What type of inspection and preparation of the existing 
        fireplace is warranted?  We have burned about 20 fires per winter 
        over the last 3 years and have done no maintenance to the chimney 
        so far.
 
               2. How significant is the Carbon Monoxide risk from this 
        type of stove, and what needs to be done to eliminate it?
 
               3. Should I have the exhaust pipe taken up the full height 
        of the chimney, or just a few feet past the damper and sealed 
        around it at damper level, as the installer suggests?
 
               Overall, I have been impressed with the efficiency and 
        apparent safety of pellet stoves, but maybe I have been taken in by 
        advertising!
 
               Any comments and discussion will be appreciated!
 
                                     T.Delahunty

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: ggawron@comm.mot.com (Glenn Gawron)
Subject: Help On Cleaning Carpets... Opinions Wanted!!!!
Organization: Motorola
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 08:04:15 GMT

We recently closed on our first house and need to do some cleaning before 
moving in.  The carpets are in good shape but the previous owner has a dog 
and we would like to get the carpets cleaned.  I have a couple of questions 
about this.
1.  Is it better to rent a carpet "steam cleaner" from the local super market
    or have a professional service come in and do it?  (Are cleaning fluids 
    the same and is the equipment comparable?)  
2.  If we have a professional do it then what questions should I ask 
    potential services (cleaning fluids, suction equipment etc...)?
3.  Should we go with the stain guard and other "extras"?

Thanks for all your help in advance!!

+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Glenn Gawron                          | Internet: ggawron@comm.mot.com|
|Motorola Central Systems Engineering  |    X.400: C10836@email.mot.com|
|1301 E. Algonquin Road - IL02 Rm 0436 |    Voice: (708) 538-3756      |
|Schaumburg, Illinois. 60196 USA       |      Fax: (708) 576-5640      |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
>> Disclaimer-Opinions expressed are those of the sender NOT Motorola <<
From: brennan@hal.com (Dave Brennan)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mortgage Applications
Date: 2 Jan 93 03:35:41 GMT
Organization: HaL Computer Systems, Austin, TX
NNTP-Posting-Host: hysteria.hal.com
In-reply-to: allen@tessi.com's message of 23 Dec 92 18:44:52 GMT

Allen Warren (allen@tessi.com) wrote about the information he needed to give
to his mortgage provider.  I didn't need to provide nearly as much
information as he did.  All the wanted was addresses and employment for past
three years, copy of most recent back account statements, last pay stub, and
information on any stocks or bonds owned, and proof that I had the money for
the closing costs including the down payment.  They obtained my credit
report, verified my employment, and checked to see that I paid my rent on
time.  It was a lot easier than I expected, but I guess this depends on
who you get your mortgage from.

Do be concerned about your credit report, because they'll want explanations
of anything that's less than perfect.  I had to confirm that I hadn't
received a loan from some company I had never heard of who got a copy of
my credit report for whatever reason.

--
Dave Brennan                                      HaL Computer Systems
brennan@hal.com                                         (512) 794-2855
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:16209 rec.woodworking:8913 news.answers:4796
From: af905@yfn.ysu.edu (Ed Shanks)
Subject: Re: Weevils in Grain (SUMMARY)
Organization: Youngstown State University/Youngstown Free-Net
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:57:27 GMT


Kathryn - one thing my wife says to add...A bay leaf in a tightly
sealed container is supposed to keep out insects. They don't like
the smell or something.  (of course, the flour or whatever should
be in the container, too, with the bay leaf on top of the flour
or grain product! :-) )

	Happy Holidays!

-- 
        Ed Shanks      af905@yfn.ysu.edu
"Whattaya mean I'll be cut off in 5 minutes? I just got started!"
From: sasmlb@pecos.unx.sas.com (Maria Moore)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: OneTime MIP = Cashback ?
Date: 21 Dec 92 15:04:24 GMT
Organization: SAS Institute, Inc.

In article <BzHF2D.q4@boi.hp.com> kevina@PROBLEM_WITH_INEWS_GATEWAY_FILE (Kevin Abernathy) writes:
>
>Finally,  the most  important  thing to  remember  is this:  YOU have to
>start the ball rolling.  It's not the responsibility of the Uncle Sam or
>the Mortgage company to contact you to let you know about this.  (Not an
>opinion,  simply  fact).  If you have  problems I found both my mortgage
>company and (surprisingly) the people at FHA to be quite helpful.
>
In my case I called the FHA with my case number and the woman I talked with
was very short when she instructed me that AFTER they get the information from
my mortgage company they would automatically send me the application.  All I 
had to do was make sure the mortgage company sent them the information.  This
was in March of 1992.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking
From: tonyb@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tony Berke )
Subject: Re: Advice needed on Finish Nailers and Compressors!!
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43
Date: 28 Dec 92 13:09:27

In article <34125@goofy.apple.COM> bruce_eckstein@gateway.qm.apple.com (Bruce Eckstein) writes:

   I'm in the market for an air compressor and a finish nailer and was hoping
   to get some advice on things that I should be looking for, and in particular 
   what brands/models to buy or stay away from.

   ...

   Two models that I've seen that seem to fit the bill are the 1 1/2 hp 
   Emglo/AirMate with dual vertical tanks (4 gallon total cap.) and the 2 1/2 hp 
   Cambell-Hausfeld with an 11 gallon tank...

   The choice of finish nailers seems to be even further unbounded than for that 
   for compressors...

I have an Emglo that sounds similar, except that it uses two horizontal tanks.
It works well, and I've run air ratchets and impact hammers with it as well as
nailers.  Don't expect any of the portables to be able to run any of the really
fun air tools, though -- regardless of what the compressor and tool people say,
I've never seen a portable that can do justice to a random-orbit sander, air file,
drill, or a big die grinder.

As for finish nailers, I use a Paslode and love it.  It can take quite a range
of lengths, the depth adjustment is really useful, and it's well built.

Happy fastening,

Tony
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Dish washers available that run on 120Volts????
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 93 00:01:55 GMT

In article <1992Dec26.003602.26877@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com> billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:

>Nope. Additions to the panel would have to meet current code. Dishwashers
>are not that old. If my reading of the code is correct, to install a
>220v dishwasher onto a system that uses fuses, a person would have to use
>a 220v fuse, or install a subpanel with a 220v breaker.

We had a dishwasher in my house since the early 50s - in short, they *are*
that old. Also - as far as I know, there's no such thing as a "220 volt fuse".
You drive a 220 volt appliance with two standard fuses. Any ganging of the
two is accomplished by the fuse box, not the fuse.

You are correct that additions must (or at least, should) meet current code.
If your existing fuse box will not safely serve a new 220 volt line, you'd
have to add a subpanel or replace the old fuse box.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | It could probably be shown by facts and figures
George Patterson -  | that there is no distinctly native American criminal
                    | class except Congress.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: JB <jbl@mesaadm.cre.nt.com>
Subject: Re: Building a new house
X-Xxdate: Tue, 22 Dec 92 10:55:31 GMT
Organization: NT/BNR
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 15:50:30 GMT

In article <MICHAEL.92Dec18132217@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov> Operator,
michael@sunbeam.ksc.nasa.gov writes:


>great amounts deleted, various "horror stories of the month".

If you did the subcontracting yourself, you deserve what you got.  The
first rule in working with ANY maintenance or contract people is to check
these people out FIRST.  A builder should be able to show you one or more
of his homes in various stages of completion, and provide you with a list
of recent clients, if asked.  If not, then ask yourself why?  He should
also be willing to introduce you to any sub-contractors he may use or
provide a list.  Sub contractors work for that builder or main
contractor, not you, unless you are the main contractor; who do you think
they will worry about?

The best source is word of mouth.  We chose our builder because he has
built homes for friends of ours.  They recommended him highly.  We have
seen his work.  We would choose sub-contractors in the same manner,
especially sheetrock hangers and painters.

Yes, you should do everything possible to protect your interests, number
one being a room by room spec spelling everything out to the nth degree. 
But as someone loosely connected to the industry, I must say:  most
problems are caused by owners/buyers who think they know more than they
do.
***************************************************************
************ Laissez le bontemps rouler ****  JB  *************
* no e-mail address, but if you feel inclined: 919/992-2489 * 
***************************************************************
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen)
Subject: blown-in cellulose and recessed lights
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, RT Software
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 20:35:50 GMT

To insulate my 1700 sq-ft attic to R-30, I can buy fiberglass batts for
about $600 or cellulose for the same plus/minus small change.  However,
the pros can do it for me for $500 for batts or $400 for cellulose (I got
5 bids).  I'm inclined towards the cellulose; in fact, before the ceiling
was drywalled I installed air vent chutes where I have intake vents.

However, one problem with cellulose that I haven't solved yet is what
to do about my recessed lights and attic scuttle hole.  I have recessed
lights in my 3 walk-in closets (code requirements could only be met by
using 'em), 2 bathrooms, and over the kitchen sink.  I checked the info
that came with the lights and they want insulation backed away by 3 inches.

I asked one installer what they do and he said, "Oh, the guys just brush
the cellulose back away from the lights."  Sounds quick, dirty, and slapdash
to me.  Are there better ways?  Could I erect some kind of barrier so that
the full depth of cellulose could be had right up to the 3" demarcation?  Thx.
-- 
Fred Christiansen, Motorola, 2900 S Diablo Way, Tempe, AZ 85282  "Canajun, eh?"
fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com  ||  uunet!phx.mcd.mot.com!fredch  ||  +1 602-438-3464
  ".. I have set before you Life and Death, blessing and cursing;  therefore
      choose Life, that both you and your children may live"  Deut 30:19
Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems
Date: Tuesday, 29 Dec 1992 11:56:39 EST
From: Robert Chambers <RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Drywall Repair Questions

My advice to you would be to carefully use a decent length drywall SCREW
and re-fasten the offending sheetrock with some of those and then
carefully remove the backing out nails.  Nails are prone to slippage
whereas drywall screws don't back out too often.  Fix the holes with
spackle or plaster if they are big.  Sand and paint as required.

As for the tape joint.. chances are if the tape job was not very well done
there will be a bump.  Is the paint cracked around this joint (suggesting
movement) If so, try to fasten the sheetrock down better.  Some of these
problems can be remedied with a little sanding and re-spackling, sanding,
painting.

Good luck...   I have a whole room to sheetrock soon, and I'm not looking
forward to it.

Robert
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com (Norman Chiu)
Subject: FHA MIP insurance refund?
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Organization: Motorola Inc.
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 18:44:29 GMT

I am currently working on the refinance of my house.  My original mortgage
was a FHA loan, which I paid a MIP insurance of about $3000 three years
ago.  Now the new mortgage is a conventional loan, and I wonder if
anyone knows where and how I can contact FHA to get part of the MIP
insurance money back?

Thanks for any info, and Happy New Year!

   /|   /  chiu@gpb-mac.sps.mot.com  | Norman Chiu - Motorola Inc.
  / |  / ___________________________ | "We never gonna survive
 /  | / /  / /__/  /\/\   /_\   /| / |  unless we get a little
/   |/ /__/ /   \ /    \ /   \ / |/  |  crazy"       - Seal
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Drywall Repair Questions
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 93 01:33:07 GMT

In article <1993Jan01.093719.147406@ultramac.uucp> GioF@ultramac.uucp (Gio Favignano) writes:
>In article <1992Dec29.143654.12316@nynexst.com> smierch@fun.com writes:
>>2) In a couple places where drywall sheets butt together, the horizontal
>>   joint is visible as a raised line on the wall.

>The problem here is a bad taping job.

If this is the only problem he has with a 30 year old sheet rock job, this
is a damn good taping job!

>There's no simple way of fixing the problem other than scraping out the old
>joint compound and retaping. 

Don't touch the old tape. Smooth the joint out with a layer or two of new
compound and repaint. No problem.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                  | Love, n; A form of temporary insanity curable either
                  | by marriage or by removal of the afflicted from the
George Patterson  | conditions under which he incurred the condition. It
                  | is occasionally fatal, but more often to the physician
                  | than to the patient.      - The Devil's Dictionary -
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: vinyl floor question
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 17:07:46 GMT

In article <4470@cvbnetPrime.COM> bsweeney@argon.prime.com (Brian Sweeney) writes:
>Is it possible to put a vinyl floor over an already existing
>vinyl floor?   In other words, do you have to rip up the old 
>stuff and put down an underlayment and then the new stuff?

If the old vinyl is smooth, you can glue the new stuff right on top. You
should be able to do this with a "pebble grain" surface also. If the old
stuff is textured with grooves to form patterns, it will have to come up.
The new flooring will gradually settle into the grooves.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |            - The 90/90 Rule -
George Patterson -  | The first 90% of the work takes 10% of the time.
                    | The last 10% of the work takes the remaining 90%
                    |   of the time.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dsr@philabs.philips.com (Deborah Rech)
Subject: Re: vinyl floor question
Originator: dsr@bubba
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 16:59:15 GMT


About 1 1/2 years ago I had Mannington Gold vinyl installed directly over textured
old vinyl.  It's still as flat as can be with no sign of the old vinyl pattern
coming through.  I love it, but the guys who installed it swore a lot because
it is so thick and rigid.

Debby
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: tslee@oracle.uucp (Terry S. Lee)
Subject: Need help removing concrete nails from slab
Originator: tslee@wrpyr.us.oracle.com
Reply-To: tslee@oracle.uucp (Terry S. Lee)
Organization: ~/.lib_rn/organization
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 04:54:56 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by an unauthenticated user
              at Oracle Corporation.  The opinions expressed are those
              of the user and not necessarily those of Oracle.

I need to get rid of about a dozen hardened concrete nails driven into a
concrete slab.  The nails are about 30 years old, and the heads were broken
off during a little demo' work.
 
About a half inch of each nail protrudes up.  I've tried cutting them with a
solid carbide bit.  The bit cuts through some sort of sleeve, but doesn't do
much once it hits the nail itself.
 
BTW, around each nail is a smail 1/4" deep crater.  Have any you netters had
any good experience with the gray resin stuff for filling concrete craters?
 
Thanks in advance
Terry Lee
From: toad@cellar.org (Tony Shepps)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Squeeeak!-y floors -- trouble?
Date: 22 Dec 92 06:06:45 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

I've been looking to buy a house for a few weeks, and have visited five of
them so far.

One thing that really befuddles me: how can you really tell how well
constructed a house is on a first walkthrough?  Are there any pointers or
obvious things to look for (beyond a damp basement or cracks in the walls)?

One obvious difference between the houses I've seen: squeaky floorboards. 
Two of the houses had 'em.  The houses I grew up in didn't have this
problem, and I really hate squeaky floors.  But anyway, are they evidence
of a house that's shabbily or quickly built?  One of these squeaky floors
was only 14 years old, fer cryin out loud.

--
Tony Shepps  toad@cellar.org
Public access and thoughtful conversation:  The Cellar BBS  +1 215 539 3043 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Need help removing concrete nails from slab
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 92 19:17:16 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

tslee@oracle.uucp (Terry S. Lee) writes:

> I need to get rid of about a dozen hardened concrete nails driven into a
> concrete slab.  The nails are about 30 years old, and the heads were broken
> off during a little demo' work.
>  
> About a half inch of each nail protrudes up.  I've tried cutting them with a
> solid carbide bit.  The bit cuts through some sort of sleeve, but doesn't do
> much once it hits the nail itself.

Three choices I can think of:

        Drive it deeper;

        Grind it off;

        Cut it with a cold chisel.

If you go the cold-chisel route or grind, wear heavy gloves, eye
protection, long sleeves, etc.

> BTW, around each nail is a smail 1/4" deep crater.  Have any you netters had
> any good experience with the gray resin stuff for filling concrete craters?

Can't help with this; will these be visible, or does it matter?

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: smjeff@lerc05.lerc.nasa.gov (Jeff Miller)
Subject: Re: Gas Logs (Was Re: Maybe you can get FREE gas logs!)
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center, Cleveland Ohio
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 21:13:37 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.191555.26551@nrtpa038.bnr.ca> Sparky writes:
>In article <1gtdvfINN818@hp-col.col.hp.com> cab@col.hp.com (Chris Best) writes:
>>> Why don't you think they can put out much heat, at least in relation
>>> to normal "wood"???  Of course, most fireplaces are loosing
>>> propositions anyway since more heat tends to go up the chimney along
>>> with air that was warm and inside the house) than gets dispersed in
>>> the house.
>>
[stuff deleted]
>
>We recently purchased gas logs because we have an older home (1941)
>and didn't want to have to worry about cracks in the flue, etc.  The
>fireplace is also VERY small.
>
Are you certain that the flue cracks are not dangerous when you use 
gas logs?  You don't have to worry about creosote building up in the
cracks but you do have to worry about heat going where it is not 
supposed to.  Does anyone know if this is a valid concern?

-- 
Jeffrey H. Miller     smjeff@lerc05.lerc.nasa.gov
Sverdrup Technology, NASA Lewis Research Center Group, Cleveland, Ohio

favorite book title: Attack of the Deranged Mutant Killer Monster Snow Goons

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rel@bonedust.id.macsch.com (Rob Lentz)
Subject: FOR SALE - PATIO COVER - CHEAP !!!
Reply-To: rel@macsch.com
Organization: MSC
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 92 17:25:20 GMT

 Aluminum Patio Cover For Sale

 size: 16' x 14'
 condition: good
 cost: cheap $350.00 (cost over $1,000.00 new)
 location: Diamond Bar, CA
 delivery: available, for gas expenses

 If you need an inexpensive patio cover, here it is.
 E-mail me if interested.

*************************************************************
 Rob Lentz                       (Sorry, no cutesy sayings.)
 rel@bonedust.id.macsch.com
*************************************************************

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: joel@dseg.ti.com (Joel Quejada)
Subject: Mortgage Applications
Reply-To: joel@dseg.ti.com
Organization: Texas Instruments, Inc.
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:25:59 GMT

My wife and I are planning on purchasing a house and I am wondering about
the things the mortgage company will be interested in finding out, i.e.,
what are the important points. 

Specifically, what do they look for in terms of job stability. Will it hurt 
our approval chances if I, for instance, stayed at one job for only 8-9 
months before switching? Or do they also take into consideration whether the 
job change was self-induced or was brought about by job termination?


Joel
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jmiller@brew.asteroids (Jeff J. Miller)
Subject: Re: Home Automation -- NOT X10
Reply-To: jmiller@network.com
Organization: Network Systems Corporation
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 14:23:49 GMT

Sorry, I missed the original post, but one other suggestion
would be to look into a system Honeywell sells.  I saw a
relay setup installed in a "Street of Dreams" home and I
was very impressed.

In my dream home, I thought it would be nice to hook a computer
to the relay system and run the house that way.  For all I know,
Honeywell may have already done that.

Jeff

--
Jeff Miller                 Network Systems Corporation
Internetwork Group          7600 Boone Avenue North
jmiller@network.com         Minneapolis MN 55428   (612)424-4888