HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Close call with a stain rag...
Date: 9 Oct 92 02:18:06 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct5.170356.11199@ttinews.tti.com> bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas) writes:

A good warning to the wise.

>ps. Anyone care to enlighten me on the exact process of Spontaneous 
>    Combustion?

Most of the ones we're concerned with are heat-producing processes that are
confined in a material that keeps the heat in, but allows oxygen in too.

ie: finish polymerization is a heat-producing process.  Confine the
heat, add oxygen, and poof.

Since your wife was working with a stain, which is generally a
solvent-drying process, I'm not quite sure how you got combustion.
What kind of stain was it?  A mixed stain + finish material perhaps?

I believe that cotton and some other fabrics (particularly synthetics)
will react over time with some solvents, giving the same sort of
heat build up.

I think compost-pile combustion is a combination of bacterial
decay action (which is heat producing) under the same circumstances.
Dampness aids the bacteria.  Which is why an absolutely dry pile
of compost won't do much.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 12 Oct 1992 09:44:45 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Reliant band saw review.

        I assembled my Reliant (Trend lines) 14" band saw last weekend
        and I'm pleased with both the saw (so far) and how it went
        together.

        Assembly went smoothly and took about 3 hours:

        All the parts were included (in fact I've got a hand full of
        screws, nuts, etc. left over :-) ). The saw was well packed, one
        plastic knob was cracked; but, that was the extent of damage.

        It came mostly assembled. frame & wheels, blade guides and
        table were all preassembled sub units. I spent the longest time
        putting the base together.

        The instructions pretty well matched most of the parts. The
        writing was pretty terse; but, the pictures and diagrams were
        clear enough to work from. The motor mount had me stumped until I
        found the 2nd page of exploded diagram in the very back of the
        manual.

        Some of the casting (esp wheels) is rough; but, the wheels
        are well balanced. The blade guide assemblies are very simple (no
        micrometer adjustments here); but, seem rugged.

        I didn't get much of a chance to use the saw; but, a few test
        cuts went well. The blade ran straight (even in a 5" thick
        block), there wasn't much vibration, and the motor had enough
        poo.

        I think I'm going to like this saw. It's not fancy and it's
        certainly not state of the art. The blade guides are primitive,
        the table is rough and the 4 speed pulleys look like an after
        thought; but, what I wanted was a good basic 14" band saw and I
        believe that's what I got.


                         Ron Tye (all opinions my own)

        Trend lines said the motor would be 7 amps, the saw has a sticker
        that clames 9 amps and the motor doesn't have that part of it's tag
        stamped.

        Does any one have a quick, cheep and easy way to measuer a motor's
        current draw?
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 14 Oct 1992 16:33:00 CDT
From:         Charlie Griffin <CGRIFFIN@KSUVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: sawdust & glue

I routinely use super glue and ebony sawdust to repair holes and cracks in
ebony.  It sets up fast, sands down easily and will repair a crack so that it
is totally invisible.  It won't take a stain, but that hasn't been an issue tha
with this...the black blends well.
--Charlie Griffin
cgriffin@KSU
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Norm's Biscuit Joiner
Date: 9 Oct 92 16:49:07 GMT
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs

I believe the biscuit joiner that Norm uses on NYW is the one made by
ELU(European Black and Decker).  Model #3380 is a nice unit in the $250 price
range.  Wish I had the money for one, but my Freud JS100 works just fine for
less than half the price.

Regards,   Steve Bussell
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: TableSaw Horsepower
Date: 8 Oct 92 00:01:37 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <ld6triINNiqg@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, coffin@surfin.Eng.Sun.COM (Chip Coffin) writes:

[stuff]

> I know of two netters in particular that think this is a 
> total waste of money on a motor as 3 HP is fine for a 10"
> blade.
> 
> I argue ....

What's the point?  You already have the saw.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jjoslin@kingcong.UWaterloo.ca (Jeff Joslin)
Subject: Re:      Holddown wheels - Unifence
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 15:55:48 GMT

DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV> writes:
>Can you use holddown wheels with the Unifence?
>
Not without some modifications.  But I made a little bracket (out of 
coathanger wire) which hooks over the Unifence and under the edge of the
side extension table.  I found it necessary to add a wooden rail across
the back of the extension table, because otherwise the bolts protruding 
from the table caused the bracket to get caught when I moved the fence.
Anway, with these modifications, my Leichtung holddowns work just fine.

Jeff
-- 
Jeff Joslin                            University of Waterloo grad student

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stever@meaddata.com (Steve Rothenberg)
Subject: Dado Blades?
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 12:31:08 GMT
Distribution: usa

Has there been any talk about a reccomendation for dado blades,
in particular, wobble blades? 
I was kind of surprised at prices for Craftsman blades.
a 10-inch wobble is 100.00, and the leas expensive was 50 for
a 7-inch.

Even regular chippers are 55.00 . Any other brands that are good?

-- 
Steve Rothenberg              GO BROWNS                    FOR SALE: 
Mead Data Central             GO CAVS     _____     __o    '51 BOWMAN MANTLE
stever@meaddata.com           GO INDIANS ----      -\<,    INQUIRE WITHIN
stevermeaddata@uunet.uu.net             -----   ( )/ ( )  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Workbench Dogs -- what for?
Keywords: dog dowels workbench
Date: 9 Oct 92 14:19:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: world.BvuyG4.3DI
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

In article <5615@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com> simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
>I've heard of and seen workbenches with rows of holes in them which dowels
>are placed. These dowels are about an inch in diameter, two or three inches
>long, and someone called these things "dogs". What can you do with this
>(it seemed like a woodworkers bench that I was looking at)? Any ideas?
>
>	Thanks,
>	   Mark on
>	   simnet@ssc-bee.boeing.com

    Practically everything, but I seem to use them most often for two tasks:

     1.  If I am working on the surface of a board or panel, I use the bench
dogs to hold the panel in place.  Examples of this include removing the glue
line after glue-up, running the router around the edge for edge treatment, and
running dados across the board with my router.

     2.  I also use the dogs to mount auxilary tools to the bench.  My miter
box is mounted on a piece of 3/4" ply.  When I want to use it, I mount the
ply to the bench with the dogs so that the miter box stays put.

     I have worked on benches without dogs, but I would never want to do so
again.  They are too often exactly the kind of clamping I need.

-- 
Ralph Clifford
From: ges@hpcndsst.CND.HP.COM (~Gary Stearns)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:43:49 GMT
Subject: Dado Blades?
Organization: HP Network and System Management Division
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Does anyone have the Excalibur 24 tooth 2-blade wobble dado?  
Do you like it?

I'm trying to decide between this blade or spending a little more (~30%)
for a stacking set.  Thanks for any personal experiences.


Gary Stearns
Fort Collins, Colorado

g_stearns@cnd.hp.com


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Subject: Re: Dado Blades?
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 01:20:09 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

I don't have a wobble dado, so I can't comment directly.  My choice,
based on the reviews in a recent FWW, was the Freud stacking dado.  It
is worth mentioning a comment that Norm made in the third NYW book --
that for a particular cut, he used the miter gauge and the rip fence,
which was safe because (a) it wasn't a through cut, and (b) he was
using a stacking dado.  He explicitly noted that with a wobble dado, he
would have used a stop block.  Comments?
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Red Oak in Bulk
Date: 9 Oct 92 02:03:55 GMT
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <08OCT92.09394003.0029.MUSIC@SJUMUSIC> ZGDSHSE <ZGDSHSE@SJUMUSIC.BITNET> writes:
>Hi Fellow Woodworkers -
>
>I am trying to justify buying a planer by purchasing wood that
>is dried, but not finished on any side.  So far I have been
>unable to find a source of bulk wood like this.  I am
>interested in red oak that is accessibleto the Staten Island
>New York area.

Took me a while to find this. If nothing better turns up, there's an outfit
in Swan Lake, NY that sells in bulk and ships. Prices for red oak are

   Select or better                           #1 Common
  --------------------------------------------------------
   4/4      $2.95 board ft                     $1.15 board foot
   5/4      $3.15 board ft                     $1.25 board foot
   6/4      $3.55 board ft                     $1.40 board foot
   8/4      $3.95 board ft                     $1.65 board foot

They advertise this as 6% to 8% moisture content (furniture grade).
Surfacing costs an additional $0.10 board foot (that sort of makes it
hard to justify buying a planer). Lumber is shipped motor freight
tailgate delivery and costs extra.

Catskill Mountain Lumber Co.
P.O. Box 450
Swan Lake, NY 12783
914-434-1152

The order line is 1-800-828-9663

They also sell Ash, Basswood, Beech, Hard Maple, Cherry, Birch, Red Maple,
Yellow Poplar, White Oak, and Eastern White Pine in addition to clock
kits and hand painted tiles.

Have fun!

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | Americans are crazy. They drive on parkways
                    | and park in driveways.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: john@jbean.b29.ingr.com (John Bean)
Subject: Re: Biscuit Joiners
Reply-To: b29!jbean!john@ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 04:47:53 GMT

In article <9210061908.AA05769@edwards-scy.af.mil>, jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL (Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)) writes:
|> 
|>       Related to this, does anyone know what "NORM" uses on NYW?
|> 
|>       James G. Johnson
|>       Standard Disclaimer


Recently he has been using the Bosch (or is it Elu ?). It is the one that the
motor pivots down to make the cut. I remember him using the Porter Cable
before also (the one with the D-handle).

======================================================================
= John Bean							     =
= Intergraph Corp, Huntsville AL	john@jbean.b29.ingr.com	     =
======================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Hand Plane Question
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 18:43:22 GMT

In article <1992Oct7.145707.25514@medtron.medtronic.com> jw7348@norway.medtronic.com (Jeff Wilkinson) writes:

>...... Even though I generally use a lot of power tools, there is
>still nothing as emotionally satisfying as using a plane.

Speaking of which, are Record planes really worth the extra bread (versus
Stanley). I'm shopping for a jointer plane myself, and the Record is $90.
I haven't found a Stanley jointer yet, but a couple of phone calls ought
to get me one. Should I bother with the calls, or buy the Record.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Under Consideration": We never heard of it.
George Patterson -  | "Under Active Consideration": We're searching the
                    |    files for it.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: sawdust & glue
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 13:27:02 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.4243.8580@dosgate> "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com> writes:
>UN:
>
>   More than once, I've heard people mention the wonders of sawdust and
>glue in patching small holes and gouges.  But I don't know anything else
>about it.
>
>   What proportions of sawdust and glue?  Mostly sawdust with just
>enough glue to hold it together sounds plausible.

     Use enough glue to make a thick paste.  If it is too dry, it will be
     very hard to use, if it is too gooey, it will look like glue when it
     dries and may crack.

>   What kind of glue?  Yellow, white or something special?  If I want to
>stain the piece afterwards, does it make a difference?

     I use standard yellow glue.  I have not tried to stain it, but I doubt
     that it will take stain in the same way that raw wood would.  You might
     have to stain the paste before application to get it to be the same color.

>   Any tips on application?

     Don't use metal to apply it (e.g. a nail).  The glue can react with the
     iron in the nail and leave a nasty, black stain.  I use a small piece of
     wood followed by sanding.

>   Thanks in advance.
>
>Craig Treleaven
>--
>Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
>World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044


-- 
Ralph Clifford
From: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table saws...and rust
Date: 11 Oct 92 22:41:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Web BBS 1-513-436-9011 6 Lines 1200 News groups 50,000 files!
Reply-To: todd.paulus%theweb@meaddata.com (Todd Paulus) 


SP.Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
  .From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
  .Subject: Re: Table saws...and rust
  .Message-ID: <1992Sep30.223743.24654@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com>
  .Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 22:37:43 GMT

SP.In article <lcjqh0INN63t@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, pdixon@aslan.eng.sun.com (Pete
  .ixon, Sun Software Product Support) writes:
  .|> Once prime advantage of the Ryobi, for my purposes, is its cast aluminum
  .|> table.  (I live in the Santa Cruz mountains of California; in the winter
  .|> it's essentially a rain forest, very high humidity.)  On the other hand,
  .|> after looking at the saw, I'm concerned about the unusual miter gauge --
  .|> it seemed rather prone to slipping away from the angle desired.
  .|>
  .|> The Delta has the advantage of being some sort of "standard."  But...
  .|> I'm worried about rust.  Can anyone suggest a treatment that will
  .|> alleviate the rust issue, and not mess up the wood being worked?
  .|>
  .|> General comments on the relative merits of the two saws will also be
  .|> appreciated.
  .|>

SP.Peter,
  .Living in Houston with constant high humidity I understand your fears!  I hav
  .ried waxing, baby powder, WD40, Boeing T9 and still have the odd run in with
  .t.  I am told that there is a product called Kity Speed (wax) (from Kity the
  .hine people) that is supposed to be quite fantastic at keeping rust under con
  .l.

SP.Still my personal preference is for cast iron.

Mine, too.  I have found that ordinary talc powder (baby powder in some
circles!) works beautifully on cast surfaces.  Buy an ordinary black
board erasor, sprinkle some talc on the surface and rub it in with the
erasor.  Do this everyday for about a week, and it will generally arrest
and even remove a lot of the rust, unless it's really deep, and then
protect the surface against future rust.  Plus it tends to do an
excellent job of keeping the surface 'slick' for woodwork, although not
as good as an application of furniture spray wax.  I add a little of the
talc to the surfaces about every 2-4 weeks to maintain their 'pristine'
shape!  :-)  Works for me!


Regards,
Todd

---
 . OLX 2.2 . Press <CTRL>-<ALT>-<DEL> to continue ...
                                                                                                        
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Power (drywall) screwdivers
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 13:06:21 GMT


I need a recomondation for a power drywall screwdriver. I picked up a Makita
catalog the other day and this only got me slightly more confused.

My requirements are as follows:

I will be putting up drywall for an addition (large - ~1000 square ft).
I estimate that I will have to put up more than 5000 square ft of sheet
rock - so a good drywall screwdriver will be a good investment. However,
after this is completed, I would like to use it as a power screwdriver
and nut driver.

Now Makita makes what they call a drywall screwdriver Mod# 6820V, 0-4000rpm,
variable speed, reversible, and weighs 3.0lbs. It is rated at 5.2 amps.

Makita also makes two screwdriver. Mod# 6802BV, 0-2500rpm, var. spd., rev.,
weighs 3.7lbs. and is rated at 4.8 amps. Comes with a nut setter, but I can
get a locator nose piece similar to two other  dry wall screwdrivers Mod#s
6800DBV & 6801DBV. So this will handle other chores, unlike the dedicated
drywall screw driver units. 

Questions: Do I need 4000rpm?

           Is the higher amp rating related to torque output?

           Will the extra weight of the 6802BV be a real nusance?

           Is there any real difference between the 6820V locator and
             the other two drywall scewdrivers?

           What about the 6805BV? Seem to be able to do both tasks also,
             but is even heavier and seems alittle fancier with the adjustible
             clutch - must run for more bucks.

           What about other manufacturers?
 
           Am I going overboard on this? Should I just get the cheapest drywall
             screwdriver and leave the other chores to other tools, like a drill?

Please feel free to e-mail or post. I am looking to purchase in the next few 
days, and I would like to here from people who use these things alot. If I get
a lot of e-mail (different from postings), I will post a follow-up.

Thanks in advance.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Distribution: world
Followup-To: 
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Subject: How about corded power (drywall) screwdrivers?
Keywords:

Now that a lot of bandwidth has been used up on drill recomendations, I need a
recomondation for a power drywall screwdriver. I picked up a Makita
catalog the ohter day and this only got me slightly more confused.

My requirements are as follows:

I will be putting up drywall for an addition (large - ~1000 square ft).
I estimate that I will have to put up more than 5000 square ft of sheet
rock - so a good drywall screwdriver will be a good investment. However,
after this is completed, I would like to use it as a power screwdriver
and nut driver.

Now Makita makes what they call a drywall screwdriver Mod# 6820V, 0-4000rpm,
variable speed, reversible, and weighs 3.0lbs. It is rated at 5.2 amps.

Makita also makes two screwdriver. Mod# 6802BV, 0-2500rpm, var. spd., rev.,
weighs 3.7lbs. and is rated at 4.8 amps. Comes with a nut setter, but I can
get a locator nose piece similar to two other  dry wall screwdrivers Mod#s
6800DBV & 6801DBV. So this will handle other chores, unlike the dedicated
drywall screw driver units. 

Questions: Do I need 4000rpm?

           Is the higher amp rating related to torque output?

           Will the extra weight of the 6802BV be a real nusance?

           Is there any real difference between the 6820V locator and
             the other two drywall scewdrivers?

           What about the 6805BV? Seem to be able to do both tasks also,
             but is even heavier and seems alittle fancier with the adjustible
             clutch - must run for more bucks.

           What about other manufacturers?
 
           Am I going overboard on this? Should I just get the cheapest drywall
             screwdriver and leave the other chores to other tools, like a drill?

Please feel free to e-mail or post. I am looking to purchase in the next few 
days, and I would like to here from people who use these things alot. If I get
a lot of e-mail (different from postings), I will post a follow-up.

Thanks in advance.





-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: grun@intellistor.com (Paul Grun)
Subject: Re: Inlay
Keywords: inlay
Organization: Intellistor, Inc.
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 14:34:05 GMT

From: plummer@den.mmc.com (Mike Plummer)
Organization: Martin Marietta Astronautics, Denver
                                            ^^^^^^

>I've done a bit of inlay work on guitars that I've built.
>I use abalone cut from raw shells that I find on the beach near here.....
                                                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>Have fun
>Mike Plummer

Oh come now, Mike!  Is this wishful thinking, or just a stretch of the
word 'near'?
I live in Boulder and as far as I know, the *nearest* beach is something
like 1200 miles away, and has been for the 13 years that I've lived here.
Granted, Denver is 28 miles from Boulder, but still, that's not a lot
closer to the beach...
I believe that this area was part of an inter-continental sea at one time,
but that was during the early Pleistocene (???) era.
If you have access to special beach near here somewhere, maybe you could
let us all in on the secret??
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

-Paul
grun@intellistor.com




-- 

goes to show, you don't ever know...
grun@intellistor.com
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Re: heater for garage/workshop
Date: 16 Oct 92 18:50:02 GMT
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center

On Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:29:42 -0500 Peter Bennett said:
>I;m considering a heater to use in my garage/woodworking shop this winter.
>
>There are two possibilities: 1) Kerosene mantle type heater,
>2) kerosene/fuel oil 'jet engine' forced convection heater.
>(electric is too expensive, too small)

Another choice is propane. I have a small box with a fan in it that
puts out 50k btu/hr. It does smell a bit. No thermostat. Crude but effective.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's