HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Survey
Date: 21 Jul 92 15:13:10 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

This is not the first time Mr. Balolia has responded like this.
He does have a bit of a flip style (if I were his customer
service department, I'd do my best to muzzle him, because he makes
them look bad).  What I can say, is at least Mr. Grizzly answers
his mail.  I've had much worse problems with Mr. Delta (as have
other more vocal people here).

The answer, is I'd probably still deal with the, but with extreme
caution.

-Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rdc@world.std.com (Ralph D Clifford)
Subject: Re: Benches
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 13:32:48 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.195114.14440@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
>Has anyone out there who CAN'T afford oak and cherry built the
>bench that Normy built on NYWS?  I sent away for the plans and it
>seems like a nice bench, plus it uses common 2x4's etc.- things I
>can afford to buy.
>
>Any comments?
>
>Bill
>-- 
>William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
>Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
>MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595

     I built my bench based on Norm's design about a year ago and have been
very happy with it.  I made one major change -- rather than using the the
bench screw in the design, I substituted a woodworker's vise.  I didn't like
the fact that Norm's bench only had bench dogs with no way to easily clamp
work for edging, etc.  Also, I left off the tool tray, making the top that
much larger.

    The only major disadvantage with the bench is that it is not heavy enough
as designed and has a tendancy to walk around.  I have solved the problem with
a couple of cinderblocks placed on the spreader.

     Have fun with whatever you do.

Ralph Clifford

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: daniel@osefs1.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com (Daniel Sedergren)
Subject: Leveling a Jointer Table
Keywords: Jointer, Sears, Level
Organization: Operational Support Engineering 78-20
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 17:21:03 GMT

I have an old Sears 6 1/8" jointer.  Last night in preparation to joint some 
boards to glue up a panel I checked the jointer to insure that the blades 
were square and at proper depth, that the fence was square to the bed, and 
that the infeed table was level with the outfeed table.  The infeed table 
had a noticable droop so I broke out the service manual and set about 
leveling the bed.  Here's my problem.

The leveling adjustment consists of four hollow leveling bolts with 3/4" 
heads.  Inside of the bolts are four 1/2" lock bolts.  The idea is to loosen 
the lock bolts, adjust the leveling bolts, and retighten the lock bolts.  
The problem is that once I have the bed level, tightening the lock bolts 
pulls the bed out of true.  I held the level bolts with a 3/4" box end, and 
used a 1/2" socket on the lock bolts.  Even though there is no appreciable 
movement of the leveling bolts, the table still shifts when I try to tighten 
it down.  The leveling bolts thread through the base of the jointer and have 
concave washers on the end that float in the end of the bolt.  The lock 
bolts extend through the leveling bolts and attach directly to slide 
mechanisms on the bed.  (This is hard to describe, but anyone who has one of 
these knows what I'm talking about).  Anyway, am I doing something wrong, 
or is there a trick that I haven't figured out.  One of the confusing things 
is that when I turn one of the leveling bolts, the table seems to tilt from 
side to side rather that fore and aft.  Is the table supposed to move in 2 
dimensions?

I did remove the table and clean and relube the slide mechanisims as they 
were pretty gummed up.

Anyone who has solved this problem before, or who has a suggestion is 
welcome and encouraged to respond.  My wife will appreciate it, as it's her 
chest that I want to build.


Dan Sedergren                       When you do more than your fair share   
amaziah@cup.portal.com              of the work, you will be given more     
DANIEL@osefs1.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com than your fair share of the work to do. 

DISCLAIMER: I know they're not much, but they're all mine.
From: tob@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (ted.o.burger)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wiring riddle
Date: 24 Jul 92 18:26:53 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

Joe

My money is on a deffective 4-way switch.  This switch is apparently
stuck in the OFF position.  The thought process is the fact that the
4-way MUST be off and the 3-ways must be opposite of each other points
to a 4-way stuck in the off position.  See the following sketches:


        on               on                    on
        0--------------0---0-----------------0
       /                                      \
hot---0                                        0---lite--neutral
                                                    on           
        0--------------0---0-----------------0


        on               off                    on
        0--------------0   0-----------------0
       /                \ /                   \
hot---0                  X                     0---lite--neutral
                        / \                         off             
        0--------------0   0-----------------0


        on               off                    off
        0--------------0   0-----------------0
       /                \ /                    
hot---0                  X                     0---lite--neutral
                        / \                   /     on            
        0--------------0   0-----------------0 
                                               
Buy a new switch and you shuld be on your way.

Ted
From: STEVE.BUSSELL@OFFICE.WANG.COM ("Steve Bussell")
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: RE: Copyrights in WW
Date: 29 Jul 92 17:05:07 GMT
Organization: Mail to News Gateway at Wang Labs

Concerning the post on the Band Saw Fence featured in the latest Woodsmith
and the fact that i may be a copyright violation, if
you read the intro in the inside cover, SawDust, the publisher mentions he got
the fence plan from "his friend" Mark Duginski(sp).

Steve Bussell
From: walt@bones.gatech.edu (W. B. Ligon III)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hand Power Planer
Date: 28 Jul 92 13:44:24 GMT
Reply-To: walt@cc.gatedh.edu (W. B. Ligon III)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Georgia Tech Software Research Center

In article <1992Jul27.202855.21275@cbfsb.cb.att.com> jpl9k@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (john.p.letourneau) writes:
>
>Hello net-landers!
>
	[ stuff deleted ]
>
>So any experiences out there with hand held power planers?
>
>Thanks!
>John

Well, yeah, I've got a Ryobi power planer.  I use it in conjunction with
my hand planes for surfacing rough lumber.  I have found that it makes
a very nice surface, but is worthless for getting the surface flat, square,
or an even thickness.  It is great for removing alot of material with
little effort and leaves a nice surface for further planing.  It is
really great for carpentry tasks like trimming doors.  Now one option is
to buy a large hand planer.  Makita makes one that is 6" wide and almost as
long as a jointer plane (about 21" I think), but its like $300+  I would
suggest a portable thickness planer instead.  In fact, for the kind of
work you're talking about, I think I'd prefer one of those in any case.

Walt
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: removing laminate
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<1992Jul26.175812.28031@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com>
Distribution: usa
Date: 26 Jul 92 21:46:14

In article <1992Jul26.175812.28031@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com> jsr@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com (Joe Riel 3752) writes:

   How is the "crease" put into a formica top to make the lip at the
   edge of a countertop?

If it is really a `crease', that is a sharp edge, then it is two
pieces of laminate.  The edge is put on first, and trimmed flush to
the substrate with a laminate trimmer.  Then the top is put on, and is
trimmed at an angle with a laminate trimmer.  The main disadvantage of
sharp edges is that you see a cross-section of the laminate: below the
colored layers it is dark brown.  On light-colored laminate, this
looks ugly to most people.

Laminate trimmers are router-like devices.  There is a manual version
too -- a cross between an X-Acto knife and a plane.

If by `crease' you actually mean a rounded edge (radius 1/4" or so),
this is called `postforming' (that is, it is formed after the
manufacturing process).  Postforming is done by warming the laminate
and bending it (a special `postforming grade' is used) onto the
substrate in large presses.

   Can this be done at home?

The sharp edge can be done easily enough at home.  I doubt you could
successfully postform at home; it is too easy to crack the laminate.
In fact, most custom kitchen cabinet places buy postformed countertops
from one of a handful of manufacturers.  Hartson-Kennedy (in Indiana)
is the one I have heard of the most.  They sell postformed countertops
at very reasonable prices ($10/ft or so).  They have a variety of
profiles, with or without backsplashes.  Standard laminate colors are
often stocked in local warehouses; custom colors may take several
weeks.

	-s
From: sesv@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (steven.e.sommars)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: dial indicators
Keywords: dial indicators
Date: 29 Jul 92 13:23:19 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


A few weeks ago I asked a few questions about dial indicators for
use in tuning woodworking machines.  Here is a summary of
what I learned. Thanks to Dan Harris, Fred Kratky, Bennett Leeds, and
Gary Preckshot for sending information.  

If you have corrections/additions/suggestions, please email them to me.
	Steven Sommars
	sesv@cbnewsc.att.com

==================================================
Q:Are 0.001" divisions appropriate (rather than finer resolution like 0.0002")?
A:For setup of woodworking machines, yes.  There are more specifications:
	- divisions (or graduations). 0.001" for woodworking is fine.
	- divisions/rotation. 100 is popular 
	- travel.  1" is popular, but lengths from 0.25 - 2.0" are available.
	- revolution counter.  No one expressed a need for this feature.

Q:Magazines/books with more information?
A:Fine Woodworking On Woodworking Machines, Taunton Press,
  1985 has a one page reprint of an article by R.Bruce
  Hoadley, ``The Dial Indicator.'' (His dial indicator is graduated in 0.001".)

  ``Adjusting a planer with a dial indicator'', Fine Woodworking,
  May/June 1988, pages 62-63.

  Mastering Woodworking Machines, Mark Duginske, Taunton Press, 1992
  (Describes several applications of dial indicators to tuning
  woodworking machines.)

Q:Other features?
A:A magnetic base with an on/off switch is highly recommended.  A roller 
  tip is another good feature.

Q:Where does one buy a dial indicator?
A:Caveat: I have not personally checked each supplier.
        - Enco. main office # 1-800-873-3626,
          5000 W. Bloomingdale Ave.
          Chicago, IL 60639
          (Offices also in 9 other states)
        - Harbor Freight, 800-423-2567
        - MSC (formerly Manhatten Supply), no address given.
        - L.S.Starrett Co. Athol,Mass.
        - Sears: See the large tool catalog.
The inexpensive units are generally imported from Asia.  Some Japanese
companies (e.g., Mitutoyo) and Starrett make higher quality (and higher 
price) dial indicators.  The Asian imports can be had for as little as
$15, while the Mitutoyo&Starrett might go for $60-100+.  I don't
know if the more expensive models are justified for woodworking
applications.

Final Note:
I purchased a dial indicator, with magnetic base, with a set
of additional indicator points for under $30 from Enco.  My
initial impressions are positive.  
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Grizzly Combination sander G1014
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 15:04:04 GMT

In article <14h60dINNojf@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> thompson@woolly.Eng.Sun.COM (Keith Thompson - Sun BOS Software) writes:

>............................................................. for example,
>i asked about converting to 220v, which i did to the table saw, jointer
>and the g1014.  i will certainly continue to buy tools from them when
>they have the price/performance advantage. i have purchased a fair number
>of tools over the years from several places and have found grizzly at par
>or better with anyone else for qualit and service.

I own a Grizzly table saw myself and I'm interested in hearing what (if
any) difference conversion to 220 volts made in yours. Mine came with
instructions on how to do it, and I may be upgrading my service soon.

By the way, I second the rest of your post. It does bother me a little
that I haven't seen anything by someone who owns one of their bandsaws.
This leads me to believe that the original complaint is typical of that
particular tool.

As far a table saws go, I regard mine as an excellent deal and an excellent
tool.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | The origin of the English slang term "boffin"
                    | for scientist is not known; however, it has been
George Patterson -  | pointed out that the eggs of the Puffin are perfect
                    | obloids which always return to the same position
                    | if pushed and that this is also true of the ideas
                    | expressed by boffins.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan)
Subject: removing laminate
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:19:41 GMT


My Kitchen cabinets are made of particle boards covered with brown
laminates.  What I would like to do is remove the brown laminate
and put on white laminate.  What is the best and easiest method
I should use to remove the brown laminate ?  Should I use a heat 
gun ?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.


DJ
From: pmeyer@.intel.com (Paul Meyer)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Ryobi BT3000 table saw opinions?
Date: 25 Jul 92 22:24:54 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Intel Corp., Chandler, Arizona
Originator: pmeyer@sedona


	I might be able to get a table saw in the next month or so,
but my budget is limited.  I could afford $300-$600, and the lower in
that range I stay the more money I have for wood.  At the low end is
Grizzly for $350 or so. At the high end of my range is the Ryobi
BT3000 or the Delta contractor's saw with Jetlock (cheap) fence.

	The BT3000 is very different from any table saw I've seen
before, however, and I'm wondering if anybody that has one could give
me a review.  Or am I better getting a Delta contractors saw and
upgrading to unifence when I have the money or can't stand the cheap
fence anymore?

	By the way, could the owner of the FAQ post it again?  I have
a saved article called:
 Frequently asked rec.woodworking questions (last changed 9/3/90),
posted in January,  but several replies to previous questions refer to
things in the FAQ that don't appear in my copy.  And I've had people
send me mail asking for a copy of the FAQ I have.  
-- 
Paul Meyer
pmeyer@sedona.intel.com

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com (Djamschid Mehrpuyan)
Subject: fine homebuilding issues
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 20:59:41 GMT

I need the following issues to complete my collection of "Fine Homebuilding"
magazines:

     40, 41, 44, 46, 47

The Taunton Press no longer carries these issues. So my only option is to order
them from a store.  
I tried a number of stores in the Chicago land area and they dont have them either
If you know of any stores in your area let me know.  That way I could give them a
call and possibly mail order these issues.

Thanks


  -Dj
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Date: 23 Jul 92 19:00:45 GMT
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: A.I. Chem Lab, University of Arizona

In article <1992Jul23.135736.53951@evolving.com> mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier) writes:

>: forbid me to use a tape measure, because he thought minor variations (+/- 1/16
>: or 1/8) in spacing gave the piece more "life" than "dead regularity" did.
>: I've learned to get pretty good without careful measureing, except
>: measuring piece versus piece.
>
>Yes, I think you have a good point here. I'm definitely Type-A personality
>perfectionist, and I like my dotails to be perfect, no cracks, no fillers.


Just a point of clarification...   while I can't claim my tails are perfect,
the method I was mentioning doesn't neccesarily need to produce cracks or
need fillers.   It's just that the spacing and widths aren't exactly perfect.
The individual joints can be as good as I take the time to make them.

I seem to have accidentally started a woodworking business.  How does one
accidentally start a business?  People saw enough of my work, liked it,
wanted to buy it.  I don't have time to do more than the initial model for
myself, but I had two freinds who knew woodworking and who were out of work, 
so I do the design and make the jigs, and then they make the 
second through N'th versions...    ain't life strange?.   Anyway,
one of the guys who works with me is a real perfectionist,  and I drive
him absolutely NUTZ because I never make or use plans...  just sit 
around looking at design books,  cut the first peice of wood, and then
measure everything from that one.  (Example - "Well, if this is the back,
then the front should be exactly as long (zip), and the sides shoujld be 
about 2/3 as long (zip),  and let's make the mortices here and here (chop 
chop chop)...".  etc...)    As long as you carefully mark each
peice from the previous, and cut things in pairs,  you end up with stuff
in which each joint is good,  but which has subtle overall tweaks...
I don't think I've ever made anything really square, but you need a
framing square to notice it.

It also helps that I do Gothic and early period reproductions.  Less
_need_ for exact regularity.
Organization: UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 24 Jul 1992 06:26:43 CDT
From:         Scott Stager <C4322PH@UMVMA.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?

I have a couple of hand drills with key-less chucks, one corded and
one cordless.  I liked the chuck on the corded drill so much that when
I bought the cordless, I replaced the keyed chuck with a separately
priced keyless, and put the keyed chuck in a draw for "future need".
Many drills are available these days with the keyless chuck.  Just a
matter of what version/model you find on sale at the time you are ready
to buy.

The chucks work fine.  They are geared very low, so it does not take
much hand tightening to really cinch the bit in.  Both my drills are
variable speed, so I find it handy to use slow speed forward or
reverse to wind the chuck down from full open to full closed.  The
chuck surface is smooth, regular, and rubber coated, so I don't worry
about ripping skin off the hand.

+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Scott Stager                    Bitnet: C4322PH@UMVMA                |
| Information Technology        Internet: C4322PH@UMVMA.UMSYSTEM.EDU   |
| University of Missouri           Phone: (314)-882-9289               |
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Subject: Re: Benches
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 19:51:14 GMT


Has anyone out there who CAN'T afford oak and cherry built the
bench that Normy built on NYWS?  I sent away for the plans and it
seems like a nice bench, plus it uses common 2x4's etc.- things I
can afford to buy.

Any comments?

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Rewiring tools for 220V
Date: 21 Jul 92 07:51:25 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Jul20.165450.13986@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com writes:
|In article <1992Jul20.141259.17023@slustl.slu.edu> guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith) writes:
|>In article <DRAND.92Jul17162132@spinner.osf.org> drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand) writes:
|>>In article <1992Jul16.140802.17125@slustl.uucp> guy@slustl.uucp (Guy Smith) writes:
|>>
|>>Houses normally do not have three phase supplies.  I'll even go 
|>>so far as saying that they almost never have three phase.  This is
|>>not a concern in houses.
|>Well, mine certainly does. How else do you manage four wires
|>(hot-hot-neutral-ground)?

This is not three phase.

|Not likely. Only the hot lines are "phased", so your house (like most
|others) has two-phase power. The term "phase" refers to the cycling of
|power on the hot lines.

|In standard 220 service, each hot line will be carrying 220 volts half
|the time, with 60 pulses of power per second (60 cycle current). Hook
|up between one of these and ground, you get 220 / 2 or 110 volts average.
|Your second hot line is "phased" on the opposite cycling period; that
|is, when the black line has 220 on it, the red line has no power and
|vice-versa. Hook between these two, you get 220 all the time.

No, that's not how it works at all.  The black wire never has 220V on
it.  Nor does the red.  The hot wire is a sine wave, with +110V and
-110V relative to the neutral or ground wire.  The red wire is the
same way.  However, while the red wire is positive, the black wire
is negative.  And v-v.  They are 180 degrees out of phase.  This means
that the red and black wire are 220V with respect to each other, and
110V relative to the neutral wire.

|Three phase power uses the same idea with three hot lines to produce
|440 volts (two lines having power using the third as ground).

Nope.  Three phase power has three hot wires which are 120 degrees
out of phase.  None of them are ground.  With a 480Y/277V 3 phase
circuit, you get 480V between any two of the three hots, and 277V
between any hot and neutral.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: More on 3-phase power
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:55:26 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: 3-phase

Well, imagine that!  I come back from vacation only to find that the net
(this *is* the only newsgroup, isn't it) is buzzing with talk of my
favorite subject, 3-phase power.  On the off chance that a few more 
electrical engineers (with a PhD in Power Engineering) have picked up
this thread and are just itching to impart hard-earned wisdom, I have
some more questions regarding this exotic breed of power:

After constructing a very simple rotary converter, I have heard some
disturbing things about the things it can do to other electronic
equipment sharing the same line (from the power co's transformer)
and to the transformer itself.  Can anyone tell me for usre if there are 
wicked "voltage spikes" that travel back down the line when operating
(or turning off) a 3-phase converter?  The rumor is that these voltage
spikes occur when turning off the converter, and can travel back on the
circuit and do damage to other household appliances in your house, like
the TV, VCR, stereo, etc.

Second question:  IS there a device (and what is it called) that can
convert single to three phase power, drive the target 3-phase motor
with variable speed, and filter out any of the rumored voltage spikes?
If so, where do you get such a beast, and how much are they?

Anxiously awaiting clarification (before I burn out my TV set firing
up the old bandsaw):

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking