HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: cvoigt@brahms.udel.edu (Christopher T Voigt)
Subject: Bucking 88 Golf --> F.I. or CV problem?
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 05:12:51 GMT


hello!

I have a funky problem with my 88 gas Golf.  It has about 57k on it.
The car can 'buck' when the accelerator is held right around where the car
coasts.  If I push down a little, it will sort of hesitate, and then 
lurch forward.  If I ease up a little, it will coast a bit and then
lurch back.  It is as if there was a big space between where the engine
drives the car and the car drives the engine.  (With a little practice, the
car bucks like a wild bull!)  Yet this only happens 30% of the time, in any
gear, and at any speed.  The car is as smooth as silk at other times.

I don't remember seeing anything about this in Bentley, and mine is buried
far behind the christmas tree right now.

I suspect one of my inner CV's is bad for other reasons (CV's are a big thing
on the net, right?)  Could the CV be so worn or loose that it lets this happen??

I also think I have a leak in the fuel rail.  I have seen/smelled gas maybe
4 times in the past 15k mi.  Could a fuel leak, or a stuck f.i. component
be giving me this problem?  I have seen gas right around where the rail
connects to #1 injector.  As an aside, is this difficult to replace?

This problem really has got me.  And I can't just stick my head down there
to see what's going on like I can in my 80 Rabbit (too much crap on these
new cars!).

Any assistance would be appreciated!!!

Happy Holidays

Chris Voigt   cvoigt@brahms.udel.edu
From: dheckman@novell.com (Diane Heckman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Oil light ON!
Date: 21 Dec 92 23:24:24 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Novell Inc., San Jose, Califonia


I've got a 1972 VW Camper Van that I just bought a month ago.
After I bought it, I changed the oil and filter, adjusted the
valves, and set the timing.  Its previous owner drove it 2 miles
to the train station each day.  Compression is good at 120 all 
round.  The bottom of the engine is pretty cruddy with the 
accumulation of oil through the ages.

Saturday night, after a 10 mile drive, the oil light came on 
as I turned round a corner in first gear.  Aaaaaaa!  I parked the
car within a minute of it going on.  The engine wasn't hot,
since it didn't smell that way, and I could pull out the dipstick
with my bare fingers on a cold night.  An hour later, I checked the
oil, and found it at the lower mark, so over the next two hours,
I added a total of 3/4 quart, checking all the while to make sure
I didn't add too much and blow the seal.  Drove home that night, 
with no odd noises (as far as I could tell with the engine being
so far back).  Checked the oil in the morning, it was full.  Drove
30 miles each direction into the Santa Cruz mountains.  No oil
light.

I'm hoping that the oil light came on for the kindest of 
reasons - to tell me the oil was low.  But now I'm worried 
about any damage that might have been done while the oil 
was low.  I read the section on "Green light on" in Muir's
book about those "expensive noises".  I don't think the 
van has any, but I'm no expert.  The engine sounds 
"normal", with that loose valve chain-like noise of 2 values 
set to .008 instead of .006.  The behavoir of the 
engine is "normal" - slow but steady up the hills, grouchy to 
start.

Is there anything I can do to reassure my mind about any possible
damage that was done?  

Can anyone out there help with how to figure out if I have 
an expensive noise?  How obvious are they?



Thanks for any advice.
Diane
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: where does the pre-heating hose go?
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 16:50:35 GMT

In article <MUCIT.92Dec28224132@slate.cs.rochester.edu> mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu) writes:
>In article <C001ME.Kon@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>In article <1992Dec28.233931.13315@cs.rochester.edu>, mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu) writes:
>[stuff deleted]
>>>The problem is I can't find the place where the hose came off!  Yes I know
>[stuff deleted]
>>   The other end of the hose attaches to an air intake located below
>>   the driver's side of the radiator.
>
>Thanks, but I think that's the cold air hose.  That's intact on
>>   Ric
>
>-M
Mucit, I think you're talking about a paper/metal foil flexible tube
that goes to the exhaust manifold.  If so, you have a very low
probability of finding a place to put it.  The original mount was a
light sheet metal shroud over the exhaust manifold which rusts away in
30K miles.  (After it rusts loose, it falls down into the shift
linkage and makes it seem like you have lost 4th gear).  To a
reasonable approximation, you cana just run the hose over and lay it
on top of the exhaust manifold.

-andy


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wolfsond@cse.fau.edu (Dan MC^2 Wolfson)
Subject: 16v Scirocco
Organization: Florida Atlantic University, Boca Raton, FL, USA
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 20:07:47 GMT


A few Scirocco (87 16v) Questions:

1) When I take off the gascap, I always hear sucking of air rushing
   into the tank... Is this supposed to be like this?  

2) Sometimes when I am done driving and turn the car off, I hear a 
   small humming sound coming from the rear of the car near the filler
   pipe (gas)..   Is there some pump staying on?  It eventually does
   turn off after about 3 minutes... 

3) The car gets hot really fast.  When I drive for 20 minutes, the 
   idiot guage is almost at the top (no blinking led though) and
   the engine temp guage is around 100-110cels.  


Thanks,

Dan
-- 
Dan Wolfson (wolfsond@cse.fau.edu)

"We'll always be remembered..... We'll always be dismembered."
						--Front 242
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Vintage VW Club
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:36:50 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <BzoJEJ.DxM@umassd.edu> rgolen@UMASSD.EDU writes:
>Does anyone out there have the phone number and/or name and
>address of the Vintage VW Club of America?
>
>Post it here or e-mail me.
>
>Thanks,
>Ric

Are you by chance referring to the Volkswagen Club of America? If so
here it is:

	Membership	Lynida Tomlin
			1554 Roanoke Ave.
			Aurora, IL 60506
			(708) 896-2803

If not, maybe someone else will respond.

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: anh@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (christopher.j.hapeman)
Subject: [A] Corrado Spoiler (Adjusting)
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 14:19:27 GMT

Does anyone know how to modify the rear spoiler so it
'pops up'  at a higher speed than approx. 45 mph. 

I've read some articles stating it has no practical effect
at that speed.  I have even heard the european versions
are extended at 65 mph, anyone know if this is true?

I would like to do this to increase visibility out the
back of the car.

Christopher Hapeman
cjh@garage.att.com
From: savoia@sw.stratus.com (Rick Savoia)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: The VW domino effect
Date: 21 Dec 92 16:04:33 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: watts.sqa.stratus.com


Why is it that VW's seem to have a domino effect built into
them whenever something goes wrong? This always seems to 
happen this way with my 89 Jetta.  Here's the latest 
scenario:

I brought my car in for front brake work ($225) two months ago.
They fixed it and told me that I had about 15k left on 
my back brakes before they needed to be replaced.  A month
later the car dies on me after a cold and snowy night.  Get
it towed to my mechanic.  I need a "full service" which I
just had 35k ago ($300).  I pick up the car and they tell me
that I need back brake work now (less than the original 15K 
estimate) and that my rear passenger brakes are gone and 
rubbing on the drum (Estimate:  $150 if no drum work needed,
$250 if I need drum work).  They also told me that at my
next major service (which by the way, I still fail to see
how a fuel filter can cost $30!) that my timing belt is 
going to have to be replaced (easily close to $200) and while
driving it to the mechanic today, I heard a very loud clicking
noise coming from the front of the car which I can almost
guarantee is the water pump which I just had replaced about
30k ago (just slipped it under warranty).  So in a two month
period I have to shell out close to $1000 (for the worst
case) to keep the blasted thing going!!  Is it my 
imagination or does VW now build things to break down all
at the same time!  Does anyone else experience this?  Or is
it just me?  

Oh, yeah!  I just remembered.  My windsheild is starting to leak
on both sides!  I don't even want to think about that!

Thank you for the opportunity to vent my frustrations.  I'm
sad to say that I'm seriously considering this to be my last
VW.  The rabbit I owned before this was a complete wonder.
I hardly ever needed to tune it, it always started, I could
do oil changes every 10k and get away with it and the thing
just kept going!  Now, though, with VWs recommended major
service every 15k, I doubt the reliability of their cars. 
I've always loved the way that VW's have handled, but the cost
of repairs ($30 fuel filters and $20 air filters and $300 
tune ups) in comparison to friends American cars (most parts
under $20 and tune ups under $100) and the reliability that
they are getting, I'm beginning to think that VW just doesn't
measure up anymore. :(

Rick

-- 
==========================================================
Rick Savoia                     | "I'm just very selective
savoia@watts.sqa.stratus.com    | about the reality 
Rick_Savoia@vos.stratus.com     | I accept" - Calvin
==========================================================
From: jcb@hood (Jim Becker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Help needed with my 72 camper van
Date: 29 Dec 92 01:03:49 GMT
Return-Path: <jcb@hood>
To: jcb@hood


   Subject: Help needed with my 72 camper van
   
   Anyway, we pull  up  to  a  gas  station,  fill  up  (5  minutes  max,
   everything turned off), get in, and the car doesn't  start.   The  oil
   and   gen  lights  come  on,  but  the  starter  motor  doesn't  turn.
   Doesn't  click  or  cluck  or anything.  Complete silence.  Headlights
   are nice and bright, so  the  battery  must  be  OK.   (Right???)   We
   call  AAA.   Get  out  the idiots guide, and push the car backwards in
   3rd gear.  No change.  We  were  about  to  crawl  under  the  car  to
   check  out  the  starter  when the AAA man came to rescue us.  He jump
   started  us,  and  we  were off.  Back home, we successfully restarted
   the  car  10  minutes  after  stopping  it.   What happened here?  Any
   hints?
   

this sounds like what happened to me. what is happening is  that  your
starter is going, although it still works when the engine/transmission
is cold/warm.

when you are on a long trip the engine/transmission/starter get hot to
the point where the starter will not function until it cools down.

the solution is a new starter!

-jim
--

 -Jim Becker / jcb@pcx.ncd.com / Network Computing Devices, Inc. (NCD)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: [A] It runs!!!  :-)  (56 Beetle)
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 22:23:15 GMT

It looked like today was going to be another "Murphy's Law" day.
Went to shag a couple of parts at VW, but no go...went to another
supplier and they had a wire set, but no points,condencer, etc.
They had a master cylinder and the little grommet. So back to the
garage I went, albeit 2 hrs behind schedule.

I figured the easiest thing to fix was the grom
oops.... the grommet in the old master...put it in, got out the
vaccuum pump, but no fluid out of the rear brakes...oh well...the
brakes can wait.

Back to the 36 hp motor. Put in the new wires, and the plugs, and
did one last re-check on the stuff I did last nite. Then it was
muffler time. For such a simple exhaust system, it is sure hell to
put on...finally got all of the pipes and fittings to line up, and
tightened it down. Put on the tail pipes, and the motor looked like
it was ready to go in.

Raised the bug up a bit, and slid the motor under it. Then did a
little balancing act while getting the floor jack under the
motor....and a few pumps later it was up and awaiting that
final push. In it went! Got it all tightened up, snaked
in the throttle and choke cables. Attached all 4 wire connections (
coil, oil pressure switch, gen light switch and gen power lead).

I had three gallons of fresh gas ready to go, so I took a long piece
of fuel line attached it to the motor, stuffed the rest in the 
gas can (the fuel tank still needs to be cleaned), and then I poured
in about a pint and a half of mystery oil (got to get those guides
lubricated, etc). Next off came the top of the carb, and I filled the
float bowl. Just before starting it up, I tossed the rest of the
quart of Mystery oil in the crankcase,I'll run it like this for
a few hours and then change the oil.

After one final look-see, I crawled in behind the wheel and turned
the key...put..put..putta..putta..cough....  Tried it again, same
thing. Unfortunately newer habits die hard...I put the plug wires
in with the firing order of the GTI 1342...instead of 1432. Swapped
wires, got in and put..put...putta...putta..whirrrrrrr! Ahhh the
sound (and smoke) of the mighty 36!

It ran at about 1500 rpm for about 45 minutes. There are a few
little sniggling things to do (exhaust leak at the manifold for
#3, hook up heater cables, etc). but IT RUNS!!!!!!

Oh, well time to get some beer and dinner!

Next chapter....Give me a Brake!!!


Ric
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: fod@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov (Frank O'Donnell)
Subject: Re: Brake question
Keywords: 71' super beetle
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 04:10:27 GMT

garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) writes:

>	I have what should be a simple question <heh>. What exactly
>does it mean when you have to pump your brakes twice to get them to work
>properly? BTW, this question is in reference to drum brakes. 

Usually it means either the brake fluid is low and
you should top up the reservoir; or there is air in the
system and you should bleed the brakes.  If this doesn't
fix it, there may be a weak spring in the master cylinder,
and the master cylinder should be rebuilt or replaced.

Frank
frank@jplpost.jpl.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kirstein@bohemia.metronet.org (Dale Kirstein)
Subject: Spikes-Spyder
Summary: see above
Keywords: where, cheap
Organization: Bohemia BBS System
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 23:33:30 GMT

I have been looking all over the Denver area, and all over mail order, for
a set of Spikes-Spyder (traction device, sort of like hi-tech chains) for
my 1990 Corrado. Does anyone out there have a line on a mail order outlet
that sells Spikes-spyder at a REASONABLE price? Any comments on their 
usefulness (The spikes/not the mail order outlets.) Thanks in advance!


Dale Kirstein
.sig pending
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: morton@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (Brent Morton)
Subject: Re: Snow tires vs. All-season radials
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Univ. of Western Ontario, London, Canada
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 21:07:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec22.153314.12308@mks.com> rich@mks.com (Rich Jones) writes:
>I was quite surprised to find out that my 92 Jetta came with summer
>(not all-season) radials.  Now that Winter has arrived in Ontario, I
>need to do something about this.
>
>I was planning on trading in my summer radials (Continential
>185/60R14's) for all-season radials.  The guy in service at my
>dealership tells me that they don't sell all-season radials because
>they don't believe in them.  Something about European cars having
>different suspensions and therefore, different tire requirements than
>domestics.  Can anyone clarify this fairly ambiguous statement?  I'm
>leaning towards all-season radials because I'd like to avoid having to
>find a place to store a set of tires in their off-season.

The car is equipped with summer tires for "performance" reasons, but your
friendly dealership would just love to sell you a set of winter tires and
wheels as well. My '91 Passat came with 205/50 VR 15 tires, definitely not
suited for snow, and I received a mailing (a couple, actually) from VW
suggesting that I spend about $750 for a set of winter 195/60 R 14 tires with
steel wheels. 

I ended up using the original wheels and getting a set of 195/60 R 15 winter
tires that have performed flawlessly. Additionally, my '84 4000 S came with
185/60 HR 14 summer tires as standard, and I have since had a set of 
Continental CH's and a set of Michelin MXV'ss, before landing on my current
Michelin XGT H4 all seasons. You won't miss the performance difference
between all-seasons and performance tires. I can't recommend the XGT H4's
highly enough -- their performance in the wet is just incredible, and they
provide sufficient traction in snow that I've never felt snow tires necessary.

-- Brent
morton@prolix.gaul.csd.uwo.ca

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: seanw@mks.com (Sean Wilson)
Subject: Re: catalytic converters..
Organization: Mortice Kern Systems Inc., Waterloo, Ontario, CANADA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 17:58:20 GMT

In article <BzM7Gp.17w@cs.dal.ca> gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy) writes:
>In <BPL4VB1w164w@ham.almanac.bc.ca> emd@ham.almanac.bc.ca writes:
>
>>mferdows@aludra.usc.edu (Mehrzad Ferdows) writes:
>
>>> 
>>> quick question... a friend of mine has a 90 GTI, and is moving to Canada.
>>> He wants to know if there will be any problems if he simply removes his
>>> catalytic converter, and replaces it with a pipe. Is it that simple, or
>>> must other adjustments be done?
>>> 
>
>
>>Depends on where in Canada he moves to. In most of Canada there's no 
>>vehicle inspection, hence no problem - for now, anyway. In B.C., if you 
>>live on the lower mainland (around Vancouver, OK?) you need your car 
>>inspected by the "Air Care" program, and if it's been removed, you won't 
>>pass. 
>
>>(The rest of B.C. is still exempt from pollution inspection).
>
>>I'm not sure what level of inspection other provinces have got to, but it 
>>varies from little or none to this. 
>
>>Your friend should check with the DMV in the province he's going to.
... stuff deleted

Also, if your friend is planning on removing the pollution control devices
on his car, he can stay where he is...we (along with every other country)
don't need jerks like him.  The world is filthy enough already.

-- Sean 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: [A] More on the 56 bug....
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 01:26:58 GMT

Today I had hoped to get the engine ready to put back in, however
Murphy's Law hit home. The fuel leak was not from a bad fuel line,
instead it was leaking from the reserve tap fitting. After dumping
out a combination of super unleaded and "15+ year old" gasoline,
I pulled the fitting and both the regular tank and reserve tank
lines were crudded up. The crud was also causing the plates
inside the valve to separate and thus causing a leak.

The inside of the tank is rusted, looks like I will get to try
some of that tank repair stuff Eastwood sells. On a positive
note I think I narrowed down my brake problem....there is 
supposed to be a rubber grommet at the top of the master
cylinder which holds the pipe from the resivoir in place.
The grommet was gone, so no brake fluid to the master. 

Found out what was frozen in the spare engine while doing a
tune up. It seems that the exhaust valve for #1 cylinder
was frozen open. When I first cranked over the motor a
couple of days ago, I broke the pushrod for the exhaust
valve, and the motor turned over.

While trying to adjust the valves for #1 cyl. I noticed that
the exhaust had a gap of close to 1/4 inch!. I pulled the
rockers off and saw the problem. I pulled out the pushrod,
and it had separated from the cam follower. On the 36 hp
the push rod and cam follower are one unit. Luckilly,
I had a bunch of good used pushrods hanging around. So 
I put another one in.

As far as the valve, well a couple of taps with a center punch
and hammer, and some penetrating oil, and its now back to
operating condition. I did a few odds and ends  changing 
things from one engine to the other. All thats left is 
to put the spark plugs back in, put the carb back on
and put on the new muffler, and its ready to run.

Hopefully I will be able to work on it for most of the day
and at least get the motor in and running.

Ric
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: [W] Wiper/Washer in 1990 Fox Help!
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:22:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


Thanks to everyone who responded to my plea for help.  As it turns 
out the problem was with the contacts (a little corrosion). Anyway,
after using a little sandpaper (fine), and bending the contacts,
ever so slightly, the wiper/washer works fine.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions.

                                                  .  
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    _______/_                 
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                  \               
                          _____     __     _____    \------- ===
            ----------- / ____/   /  /   /__  __/              \
         /     ___    /  / ___   /  /      / /    ____          |
        |    /      \/ /__ /  | /  /__  __/ /__ /       \      / 
        /___         \_______/ /_____/ /______/            ====OO
            \       /                           \       /         
                -                                   -
       ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! --------------------            
            The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates
            that you probably wouldn't understand anyway!
       ------------------------------------------------------------