HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: minkpup@IASTATE.EDU (Lisa E Peterson)
Subject: Re: 60% conception
Reply-To: minkpup@IASTATE.EDU (Lisa E Peterson)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 23:26:00 GMT

In article <1992Apr6.235611.6617@massey.ac.nz>, A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S.
Chamove) writes:
> Fact: It seems that when a group of cows is put to a bull, or are
> artificially inseminated, about 60% conceive on the first mating;
> about 60% of the remainder conceive on the second... and so forth.
> 
> Question: What could be the mechanism for this?
> 
> It cannot be failure of the bull to detect oestrus as it occurs in AI
> too when the cows are mated when they are showing signs of receptivity.
> Could it be that there is differential fertility of ovaries? If the
> right ovary had 90% fertile eggs and the left had say 10% fertile
> eggs, that might account for the 60% finding.

Not that I know of but most ovulations are from one ovary and and, if I
recall,pregnancies are most commonly in the left uterine horn.  Don't know the
reason for this myself.

> 
> Is there any research on such a topic?

Oodles and oodles of it...The Journal of  Animal Science and The New Zealand
Journal of Animal Production  are the best sources.  Here's stuff I've gleaned
from classes:

Conception rate at first mating is related to a number of factors.  Typically,
cows that have had difficulty at calving are less likely to conceive at the
first mating.  Also, a sufficient amount of time is needed to allow for the
uterus to return to normal after calving, which is about 60 days, because the
until total involution occurs, the cow cannot maintain a pregnancy and the
corpus luteum will stop producing progesterone and regress.  
Also many pregnancies are spontaneously aborted within the first 8-14 days so it
shows up as a "silent" or missed heat.  I don't recall the exact percentage on
this--it doesn't mean much anyway since we have no way of detecting early
miscarriages.

Under- and over-conditioned cows are also have more reproductive problems. 
Also, as the cow gets older, she is less likely to breed back at the first
mating.  First conception rate in heifers is much higher and timing for AI is
extremely important but I suspect that some of the problems with conception in
AI is related to semen viability and handling. 

In US dairy herds, conceptions rates can get pretty high due to good management
and knowledge of the repro tract in cows.

Hope this helps.

Lisa E. Peterson
Animal Science/ Dairy Science
minkpup@iastate.edu
From: snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Stephen Northcutt)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Antique apples
Date: 7 Apr 92 12:20:02 GMT
Reply-To: snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Stephen Northcutt)
Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center

Garbage mag. this month was saying that there are some 10,000 known
[cultivars] of apple in the world, but that 15 accounted for 90% of
all that is harvested.  

I am currently growing: granny smith, red rome, red del. golden del.
and the following disease resistant: mac free, jonafree, liberty.

I have planted but have had disappointing results with: macintosh,
summer rambo.  

I have 45 apple trees now, most of production age.  The two diseases I
have the most trouble with are powdery mildew!!!!! and cedar apple
rust. I *HATE* spraying ,but do so twice year minimum with a fungi/
insecticide mix.

I do want to plant some antique apples, preferably in semi dwarf,
but will consider standard.  My concerns are pollination (of course)
and hardiness.  I am also interested in planting a small number of
really vigorous apples in small clearings in the woods (probably
standards).  So I am looking for recommendations.

What are hardy antiques?
What are their pollination partners?
Am I just throwing money away trying to put apples in the woods?
If not what is a source for standard size antiques, I get miller
and figure to buy some semi dwarf from them.  I have already
decided on Grimes golden, but want a few more choices.

Thank You

PS I am already growing granny smith, like them a lot, once they get
3 or 4 years old they resist powdery mildew quite well.
===================================================================
   ** my dream: voice, video, data, 3 services, 1 network **
===================================================================

Stephen Northcutt (snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil)     Networks Program Manager
From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Antique apples
Date: 9 Apr 92 00:41:45 GMT
Organization: Crash TimeSharing, El Cajon, CA


	The people at Monticello (Thos. Jefferson's home) have done
extyensive research and preservation of antique apples.  All I have
is a number (804)295-8181.

	DonB
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Antique apples
Date: 7 Apr 92 13:13:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: chaos.bill.702652425
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.

snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Stephen Northcutt) writes:

>Garbage mag. this month was saying that there are some 10,000 known
>[cultivars] of apple in the world, but that 15 accounted for 90% of
>all that is harvested.  

>I am currently growing: granny smith, red rome, red del. golden del.
>and the following disease resistant: mac free, jonafree, liberty.

>I have planted but have had disappointing results with: macintosh,
>summer rambo.  

>I have 45 apple trees now, most of production age.  The two diseases I
>have the most trouble with are powdery mildew!!!!! and cedar apple
>rust. I *HATE* spraying ,but do so twice year minimum with a fungi/
>insecticide mix.

>I do want to plant some antique apples, preferably in semi dwarf,
>but will consider standard.  My concerns are pollination (of course)
>and hardiness.  I am also interested in planting a small number of
>really vigorous apples in small clearings in the woods (probably
>standards).  So I am looking for recommendations.

my understanding is that you can use a crabapple as a polinator
but then somtimes i don't understand. planting in the woods sounds good 
watch out for the deer they love those little buds.

>What are hardy antiques?
>What are their pollination partners?
>Am I just throwing money away trying to put apples in the woods?
>If not what is a source for standard size antiques, I get miller
>and figure to buy some semi dwarf from them.  I have already
>decided on Grimes golden, but want a few more choices.

>Thank You

>PS I am already growing granny smith, like them a lot, once they get
>3 or 4 years old they resist powdery mildew quite well.

bill
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
From: aa431@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Doug Gillespie)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: 3605-3622
Date: 16 Apr 92 08:19:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1992Apr16.081923.15659
Reply-To: aa431@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Doug Gillespie)
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)


I was wondering, did anybody happen to save msgs 3606 to 3621?  I missed
them and would have liked to have seen them.  Please send them by email if
you can.  Thanks.
-- 
                  Single sig xx095, Timex/Sinclair sig xx026
                        Youngstown  ad439@yfn.ysu.edu
                       Medina  ac633@medina.freenet.edu
                    Peoria  dgillesp@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: mpleis@iastate.edu (Cowboy)
Subject: Re: Alternative to grass over septic bed?
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 04:37:35 GMT

In article <3379@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>In article <1992Apr5.215814.28927@news.iastate.edu> mpleis@iastate.edu (Cowboy) writes:
>>In article <3371@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>>>Has anybody got suggestions for something *other* than
>>>grass over a septic bed?
>>When we put a new one in 3 years ago they said it had to be in a lawn.  But now
>>we have moved our drive way and it covers half of it and we farm the other half
>>. No problems yet
>
>Well, it wouldn't make any sense moving the driveway to the back of the
>house.  Nor are we farmers (well, tree farmers in a way).  Nor do we want
>to go to jail.

Well our bed it on the side of the house.  The driveway goes to the back where
the rest of the buildings are.

>
>Just wait until traffic on your driveway collapses the bed's distribution
>pipes, your farm equipment hits them, or the roots of whatever you're
>growing chokes off the pipes.  Then you'll find out why they say "lawn".

Well we run strait truck and semi's over it every day.  If it stops working
our AO Smith slurry system is just 100 ft way.  Our other farm is hooked like
that to the Slurry.

Well our Tiger till only goes 24" deep and the  976 Ford has trouble with that.

>
>Or do you have an extra thick soil cover and/or reinforcing over the pipes?

The pipes are 4 ft down and are schedule 80.
In a rock bed with 3" rock.

>
>If we were to pull something like that, we'd be in serious trouble the
>next time an inspector of any kind came by.

Inspector come by?  What is he to do make you dig it up to check it?

>
>I'm looking for something with roughly same root behaviour as grass but
>more drought-resistant and that doesn't need mowing.

Time for a rock garden.























-- 
mpleis@iastate.edu     Mark L. Pleis (Cowboy)
Agricultural Systems Technology, Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa
Iowa FFA State Vice-President Northeast District
I speak for myself not the FFA or ISU
From: jcounsil@usenet.umr.edu (Joseph A. Counsil)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Tillers
Date: 6 Apr 92 18:35:35 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri -- Rolla

In article <1992Apr1.131506.7709@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> boldtp@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (He who tills his land will have plenty of bread, but he who follows frivolity will have poverty enough. -Proverbs 28:19) writes:
>
>IMHO.  Troybilt tillers are overrated and overpriced.  I have used several
         ... stuff deleted ...
>       Like someone else said, if you want something like a Troybilt, there
>       are much cheaper copies on the market that have the same quality.  If
>       you want to pay as much as you would for a Troybilt, why not get a
>       high quality machine?
>
>       FLAME ON!

I own a Troybilt, and after about four years of use, am EXTREMELY happy with
quality and functionality.  I think that you should have said above that if
you want similar functionality, you CAN pay less.  However, the result of my
research into the market was that if you want functionality AND quality, you
will have to buy the Troybilt.  When I looked (about four to five years ago)
I found nothing on the market which was as well made.  I think that quality
is an important consideration when making such an investment.
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Vermont Castings - Opinions?
Date: 7 Apr 92 14:36:11 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennesee, Knoxville
Distribution: na
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

L. Maurice Riggins asks:
> We're considering the non-catalytic Resolute Acclaim.  Anyone 
> have any pro's/con's on this or other Vermont Castings' stoves?

we have a vermont castings defiant encore (with the catalyst) and
love it  -- it's extremely efficient and well designed (the air wash
down the glass really does keep the glass clean as claimed) 

though this is a big stove, it has a somewhat small carry-out ash pan 
i think (but at least it has one!)

it's critical that you deal with a local, dependable vendor (vermont
castings isn't much help over the phone at all -- if your installer
is a flake like ours was, all you'll get over the phone is quotations
from their booklet)

someone mentioned outside air -- unless yours is a very tiny, genuinely 
airtight house, the amount of air needed for combustion is negligible

the catalyst is easily accessible with a stubby phillips screwdriver,
and is waranteed for 3 years (whew, ours cracked badly after 2 seasons,
and a new one is about $150)

------
Michael A. Langston  <langston@cs.utk.edu>
------
Gentlemen!  You can't fight in here!  This is the War Room!
   -- Mr. President (Peter Sellers) in Dr. Strangelove
From: bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Antique apples
Date: 7 Apr 92 19:32:26 GMT
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.

snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil (Stephen Northcutt) writes:

>Hi, me again.  I got a mail message saying I didn't provide enough
>info for an answer.  

>I live in VA piedmont terrain.  The woods I am considering were
>probably clear cut harvested about 20 years ago so the only really
>mature trees are deep in ravines.  I have gone through in the years
>I have owned this section of property (3) and cut all the grapevines,
>harvested most of the leaning trees.  I still need to zap the majority
>of the poplars.  So mostly we are talking oaks and hickorys 8 - 12 "
>diameter.

>Bill@chaos writes of crabapples as pollinators and deer.
>News to me about crabapples, but it seems reasonable enough.
>Deers, oh what a problem they are!  But that issue comes up
>enough on this list.  I am having some success by bagging dog poopy
>from my dog's pen and sprinkling it in the general area of the
>trees, not right next to them.

i'll try to remember to hunt it down. seems to me a back issue
of either og or country journal. probably og. there was a pretty
good sized article concerning some of the items you requested
in your first post. i.e. ye olde time apples :)

bill

>BTW, I have planted one of those chestnuts that is supposed to
>be blight resistant and it seems to be doing quite well in
>a different section of woods.  No not chinese chestnut, AM. hybrid. 
>===================================================================
>   ** my dream: voice, video, data, 3 services, 1 network **
>===================================================================

>Stephen Northcutt (snorthc@relay.nswc.navy.mil)     Networks Program Manager
--
bill@chaos.cs.umn.edu
From: boldtp@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (TILL, SOW, OR GET OUT OF THE WAY)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Tillers
Date: 13 Apr 92 12:04:08 EST

In article <4769@umriscc.isc.umr.edu>, jcounsil@usenet.umr.edu (Joseph A. Counsil) writes:
> In article <1992Apr1.131506.7709@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> boldtp@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (He who tills his land will have plenty of bread, but he who follows frivolity will have poverty enough. -Proverbs 28:19) writes:
>>
>>IMHO.  Troybilt tillers are overrated and overpriced.  I have used several
>          ... stuff deleted ...
>>       Like someone else said, if you want something like a Troybilt, there
>>       are much cheaper copies on the market that have the same quality.  If
>>       you want to pay as much as you would for a Troybilt, why not get a
>>       high quality machine?
>>
>>       FLAME ON!
> 
> I own a Troybilt, and after about four years of use, am EXTREMELY happy with
> quality and functionality.  I think that you should have said above that if
> you want similar functionality, you CAN pay less.  However, the result of my
> research into the market was that if you want functionality AND quality, you
> will have to buy the Troybilt.  When I looked (about four to five years ago)
> I found nothing on the market which was as well made.  I think that quality
> is an important consideration when making such an investment.

I am sorry to be the one that brings you the bad news, but you should of
looked harder at the market.  The Mainline tiller is MUCH better than the
Troybilt ( in quality and features ), and it costs about the same.  If you
want Troybilt quality ( medium, it is much better than some of the junk
you might find at a hardware store ) you can pay alot less by going with
a company that doesn't have a giant advertising budget to support.

Did you look at Mainline or BCS 4 or 5 years ago?  They are not new to
the tiller market, they were there to be found.
From: muncie@einstein.eds.com (muncie)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: How to get rid of WASPS?
Date: 8 Apr 92 17:49:54 GMT
Organization: EDS/TSD - Troy, MI

I have a problem in that _alot_ of mud wasps like to sun, rest, sit in the
shade, etc.,  on the exterior of my house during the summer time. Being a
equal rights kind of guy, I'd prefer to leave them alone, but aside from 
leaving ugly brown stains (wasp pee?)on the siding, they bother my wife and 
kids when they inadvertantly enter the house.

I would appreciate any suggestions on how they might be discouraged from 
hangin around. Hopefully I won't have to resort to any heavy chemicals :(


I live north of detroit by 30 miles, the house type is colonial, and the 
wasps like the morning side of the house (which also happens to be the front 
side :().

Thanks in Advance,

Bob

--
Bob Muncie				Inet: muncie@pascal.tsd.eds.com
EDS/TSD/FSD/CSDPG/CSIST			Troy,MI. (313) 265-8468
From: dsill@igc.org (Dave Sill)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Buying the farm
Date: 15 Apr 92 12:17:05 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennesee, Knoxville
NNTP-Posting-Host: de5.ctd.ornl.gov

OK, so we've found the "perfect" place.  Thirty+ acres (12 cleared,
rest wooded), 4 bedrooms, 2600+ sq. ft., workshop, barn, stocked pond,
etc.  We've even got a contract on it.

Trouble is, mortgage sellers won't make a loan for a place with more
than 10 acres.  (Why?  Is this a federal restriction or just
Tennessee?)  A local banker *might* sell a mortgage for more than 10
acres, but requires 20% down (too much for us) and charges a couple
more points. 

Our options seem to be:

    1) Don't buy it
    2) Buy house+10 acres (seller is willing, but I want it all)
    3) Buy house+10 acres and 20 acres separately

Under option three the possibilites include:

    1) Mortgage for house+10, bank loan for 20
    2) Mortgage for house+10, owner financing for 20 (may not be an
       option)

Am I missing any possibilities?  Any other creative financing options?
How have other people worked around this problem?

Please reply ASAP by e-mail (dsill@igc.org) or news.

-Dave Sill
From: spf@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (Steve Frysinger of Blue Feather Farm)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Sears Tillers
Date: 14 Apr 92 19:17:46 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories

From article <1992Apr13.083244@VMS.SAS.COM>, by sasjzs@VMS.SAS.COM (Joe Slater):
> Anyone know who actually makes the Sears Tiller
> that brown@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Pat R. Brown) 
> reported about? 

I don't, but I've had a Sears 6hp front-tine for about 6 years, tilling
a 2400+ sqft garden several times per year, and it's great.  I'm glad
I didn't buy into the rear-tine ads;  the Sears front-tine might jiggle
a little more, but it's certainly no big deal, and the price is right.

Steve
From: cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Andrew M. Cohill)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Buying the farm
Date: 15 Apr 92 14:31:47 GMT
Organization: Fire in the Mountain

In article <kuo7m1INNo77@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> dsill@igc.org (Dave Sill) writes:
>
>Trouble is, mortgage sellers won't make a loan for a place with more
>than 10 acres.  (Why?  Is this a federal restriction or just
>Tennessee?)  A local banker *might* sell a mortgage for more than 10
>acres, but requires 20% down (too much for us) and charges a couple
>more points. 
>

We have the same silly bulls**t here in southwestern Virginia.  It has
nothing to do with state or federal governments.  As far as we can tell,
the banks have decided it is easier to sell a house without a bunch of
land attached to it (in the event they have to foreclose).  We've have
trouble re-financing our 15 acres for the same reason.  

If you split the land up, which is what we are considering, split it up
so that the houseless plot isn't worth much; i.e., get all the
outbuildings and improvements on the house plot.  Then use a line of
credit or something to finance the low value plot until you can get
everything straightened out.

The other alternative is to keep shopping around.  When we were trying
to buy the place, we finally found a bank that was happy to finance the
whole property, albeit with an ARM.



-- 
|          ...we have to look for routes of power our teachers never       
|              imagined, or were encouraged to avoid.   T. Pynchon          
|                    
|Andrew Cohill        cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu            VPI&SU
From: broy@vaxa.weeg.uiowa.edu (Barbara Roy)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Buying the farm
Date: 16 Apr 92 20:02:00 GMT
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <3758@vtserf.cc.vt.edu>, cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Andrew M. Cohill) writes...
>
>Trouble is, mortgage sellers won't make a loan for a place with more
>than 10 acres.  (Why?  Is this a federal restriction or just
>Tennessee?)  A local banker *might* sell a mortgage for more than 10
>acres, but requires 20% down (too much for us) and charges a couple
>more points. 
> 

20% down is also required for acreages around here, although I think the break
comes at 2 or 3 acres instead of 10. I too had to come up with a minimum of
20% down to swing a deal on my 18 acres. In my case, it took all of my savings,
a loan from my parents, and a loan from the local credit union to come up with
the full downpayment. Made the initial payments a little hefty with so many
loan payments, but I was able to refinance the entire amount after making
improvements to the property and having it reappraised.

Good luck! Sounds like a nice place.


Barbara Roy, Weeg Computing Center, University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA. 52242
Meadowacres Arabians
Internet: broy@vaxa.weeg.uiowa.edu     Bitnet: broyva@uiamvs
Disclaimer: My opinions are solely my own and may change daily.
From: gurley@spectra.com (Jim Gurley)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Heat Pumps (ground transfer)
Date: 9 Apr 92 00:50:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: spectra.1992Apr9.005019.7546
Organization: Spectragraphics Corporation

I mentioned this the other day and got no response (maybe I failed to post
it properly):

I've been 'deluged' with info about another heat pump system that sounds
(from a science point of view) reasonable that uses a flat plate collector.
It's basically an air based system, but the flat plate collector avoids
'icing' (condensation) in cold weather, and they've tested it to show a COP
of 2:1 at 10 below (F) in a walk in  freezer.  It 'typically' gets a COP of
5:1 (versus 2:1 for air transfer and 3:1 for ground transfer).  In fact
it's so good (their words) that they are 'about' to release a version that
not only heats your air and water, but it has enough left to drive a
'Fischer Engine' which will drive a generator to allow total energy
independence.  They claim the whole kaboodle will be $6K.

The 'gotcha' is that this outfit is an unknown.  They claim all their
problems are 'establishment' harrassment (I suppose the utilities might be
alarmed at the idea), but their marketing promotions are a little 'snake
oiley'.

If you're interested, I can lay my hands on the 800 number to call to get
the info when I get home next week.

This IS NOT AN ENDORSEMENT, although I'm sorely tempted myself!