HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mark@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu (Mark Thomas -LRSM)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: draining 1.5v rechargables? HOW?
Date: 30 Jul 92 16:26:38 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

In article <1992Jul27.223733.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> 
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:

>In article <Bs0F0I.D3q@cs.dal.ca>, graham@ug.cs.dal.ca (Michael Graham) writes:
>
>> What is the best way to drain rechargeable batteries?
>> I have 4 Nicads for my Vivitar 636 flash and although the ready light won't
>> come on, the batteries still have a fair bit of juice left. I guess that
>> it is best to drain them COMPLETELY before recharging...umm...so I need a
>> method of doing this.
>> 

>Wire a torch globe across EACH cell. Leave for 15 min after it goes out.

Bad idea. (although partial credit given for doing it separately per cell)

>Or bang a multi-meter on 10A range across each one. The later will give you

Worse idea! (May burn out your meter also; that 10A scale is low duty cycle!)

>a good idea of the cells condition. 
>I have a cheep set of battery holders with 1.5V 1A globe soldered across them
>for this job.
>
>~Paul

Fully cycling NiCd cells, is important to avoid memory effect, but the
kind of abuse suggested above will cause more harm than good.

Once the output voltage of the pack starts to rapidly fall off,
and the eqwuipment no longer works, it is time to fully recharge 
the battery pack.  

In a battery pack with cells in series, loading the cells after their
voltage has reached than 60% the fully charged value risks
reverse-polarizing an individual cell.  This is because
they do not all have exactly the same discharge state.




Just my 2-cents worth, 
but I have had three years experience 
with specialized NiCd charging equipment.




          -Mark

--
mark@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
From: andyc@hplsla.hp.com (Andy Cassino)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Mamiya 645 News
Date: 28 Jul 92 16:28:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: hplsla.5360771
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA


I received some product sheets from Mamiya yesterday. One announced
the new 300mm f/2.8 APO-IF lens. They say a succesful fashion photog
tried it out on a 645 Super and declared it his dream camera; he "traded
most of his other equipment for it". The best price on that lens right 
now is over $8500 so that's easy to understand!

Another new product is a 150mm f/2.8 ULD, slightly faster than the old
150mm and utilizing low dispersion glasses. It is not clear if this
replaces the old 150 or not. No clue as to the price. 

Also, there is a new Hove Pro book due out late September by Bob Shell
about all Mamiya medium format cameras - including the TLR and Press.
No mention of the new Mamiya 645 but they have a teeny little picture 
of Bob Shell holding a Super equipped with a very streamlined-looking 
prism, but that's all I can see.

    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
    % Andy Cassino                                       %
    % Hewlett-Packard - Lake Stevens Instrument Division %
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Re: AF/AE vs. Manual aka All That Jazz
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 06:41:49 GMT

In article <3116@ra.nrl.navy.mil> tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse) writes:

>So, how about privide me with a step by step on how you would overide
>the AE and auto-DX in your favorite AF/AE camera.

Well, on my AF/AE camera you just turn the main mode dial to the
setting marked M (for manual) and then you're back in the sixties... :-)
Or you dial in exposure compensation in any AE mode with your right
thumb. No pushing of buttons necessary.

To override DX you simply turn the same main mode dial to the setting
marked ISO and then turn the input dial located conveniently under
your right index finger until the LCD display shows the desired ISO
value.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
From: gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: SPORTS ILLUSTRATED SWIMSUIT ISSUE: What Camera/lens?
Date: 31 Jul 92 18:40:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: clark.1992Jul31.184048.7393
Organization: Clark College, Vancouver, Wa.  USA

In article <1992Jul31.113341.21625@sys.sweden.dg.com> robert@sys.sweden.dg.com (Robert Claeson) writes:
>In article <n2pmqs=.hchong@netcom.com>, hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong) writes:
>> From article <1992Jul28.173734.23834@sactoh0.sac.ca.us>, by mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John):
>
>>> You see, the world doesn't always belong to Nikon.
>
>>Oh yeah?  I got one for you.  Canon cameras are made of plastic (so I was
>>told). 
>
>Older Nikon's are made of metal. So are the older Canon's.
>Newer Nikon's are made of plastic with parts in metal. So are
>newer Canon's. Both brand's current high-end cameras are made of
>some fiber polycarbonate(?) that's extremely hard and feels like
>metal.

A polycarbonate is a plastic.....

Gary


-- 
-----
Gary Snow
uunet!clark!gsnow  or  gsnow@clark.edu
From: chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Focal length rip-off. Coincidence?
Date: 23 Jul 92 15:25:34 GMT
Reply-To: chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC)
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO

In article <1992Jul22.221621.28378@cbnewsj.cb.att.com> duane@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (duane.galensky) writes:
>In article <1992Jul17.165135.25686@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) writes:
>> ....stuff deleted...            But ALL the lenses are -5%. There are
>>no instances of lenses being significantly faster or longer than advertised
>>but many cases of slower, shorter lenses - often by more than 5%. 
>> 
>>There are 3 possibilities here:
>>1 - The lens manufactureres are lying.
>>2 - Pop. Photog, don't know how to measure lenses
>>3 - We are looking at a very unlikely (but just possible) statistical effect.
>>
>>Can anything be done here? Is there a US Government "Weights and Measures"
>>office which is supposed to maintain strict truth in advertising? If I get
>>a lens which is 5% slow and 5% short, do I get a 5% price discount? Inquiring
>>minds want to know!
>>
>
>the best explanation sounds to be 1)...i don't know if i'd call
>it "lying"...maybe "stretching the truth a bit to keep things
>in accordance with industry nominal values"
>
>it does make it a bit more convenient to compare 70-210 zooms
>rather than a 68-205 to a 72-203.
>
>but, i DO want that 5% discount.
>
>duane

Have you ever put a ruler to a 2 by 4?

I think they call it a nominal dimension!


On a similar note, a while back I posted a request for info to relate 
enlarger height to magnification. I got the required formula and wrote a 
program which I posted. When I measured the image magnification and compared
it to the program results there was a constant error factor. I found that 
when I changed the focal length used in the calculation from 50mm to 
52.5mm the results were right on. I can only conclude that I got 2.5mm
FOR FREE!!!!!


Chuck
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Amateur vs. Pro (was Re: International Photographer)
Date: 24 Jul 92 15:26:24 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

From article <1992Jul23.231735.1424@clark.edu>, by gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow):
> In article <PHR.92Jul23130212@soda.berkeley.edu> phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin) writes:
>>
>>Around here, the press passes you need for the police to let you into
>>news events like riots are issued by the police depts themselves;
>>generally you need to be employed by a newspaper or news agency to get
>>one.  This means a real newspaper, not an amateur one.  They do issue
>>some to freelance pro news photographers but these are -very- hard to
>>get.  You need to have a large track record (lots of published work)
>>to get these.

How about if you have friends in the department? (of course, if I really
do I would have ask him or her already!) 
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dtj@caffeine.cray.com (Dean Johnson)
Subject: Re: Amateur vs. Pro (was Re: International Photographer)
Originator: dtj@caffeine
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 28 Jul 92 13:18:29 CDT


In article <1992Jul27.220444.8497@clark.edu>, gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
> In article <1992Jul27.190319.29543@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu (Michael A. Covington) writes:
> >In article <1992Jul27.183634.4539@clark.edu> gsnow@clark.edu (Gary Snow) writes:
> >>If you can't get in to a certain event to take pictures, then
> >>how are you ever going to sell what you don't have, or can't get, simply
> >>because of stupid rules that try and separate some photographers from
> >>others. Its the old catch 22 syndrome.
> >
> >Surely _some_ salable pictures can be taken without being granted special
> >access...
> 
> Possibly, but it makes it all that much more harder, when your pictures
> have to compete against another persons who took pictures from a more
> accessable position.
> 

Not to mention that the "amateur" is *generally* at an equipment disadvantage.
I don't know of my ascending amateurs that can afford a 600mm/f2.8 lens! So
those of us who can only afford a 210mm/f3.8 lens are given an additional
penalty of being put 20 or more feet away from the subjects. 

I kinda work on the principal that the photographer with the most expensive
gear has the right-of-way.

In my limited experience, I have found that the closer you look to Animal on
the show "Lou Grant", the more likely you are to be mistaken for a pro. ;-)

	-Dean
From: fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov (Fred McKenzie)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: 1.5 volt lithium batteries?
Date: 21 Jul 92 19:47:09 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Distribution: na
Organization: NASA/Kennedy Space Center, Florida

In article <1992Jul20.163405.21418@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>,
ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins) wrote:
> 
> Conventional Li cells (Li-Mno2 or Li-Cfn) have a ca. 3v cell voltage. This is
> determined by the cell chemistry. Thus 1.5v versions of this type of battery
> are not possible. Maybe there is some other Li technology which is capable of
> 1.5v cells. If not then you are out of luck. I haven't seen any 1.5v Li cells
> advertised, but I recall seeing something at a PHOTO exhibition which looked
> like a D cell and may have been Li technology (I didn't pay much attention at
> the time). If it was "D" sized and Li based, then I'd bet it was 1.5v. Imagine
> the problems that could be caused by a 3v "D" cell!

Bob-

Wouldn't it be useful to have a 3 volt double length cell?  It could fit in
the space normally occupied by two 1.5 volt cells, and have twice the
volume.  It would be quite an expensive flashlight battery, but you
wouldn't have to worry about it going bad from old age, and it would take
much longer to run down from use.

Since I'm not the worlds most prolific photographer, most of my batteries
die from age rather than use.  Replacing them with the Lithium equivalent
might be beneficial, unless they leak!  Two double-"C" cells would fit into
the handle of at least two of my flash units.  Two double-"AA" cells would
fit two of my winders.  Availability of double cells would encourage
manufacturers to accomodate that configuration in their designs.

fred-mckenzie@ksc.nasa.gov
From: faust@bagels.enet.dec.com (Stephen R Faust)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Any Nikon 8008 regrets (get the F4?)
Date: 30 Jul 92 16:49:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <1992Jul29.180447.19879@linus.mitre.org>, val@mitre.org (Colin Valentine) writes...
>In article <1992Jul29.142129.281971@cs.cmu.edu>, phg+@CS.CMU.EDU (Paul Gleichauf) writes:
>> 
>> SOME criteria for choosing between a Nikon F4s and an 8008s.  (Note I would
>> not recommend buying a new 8008 without the s enhancements and improvements).
>> 
>> F4s						8008s
>> 
> 
>good stuff deleted
> 
>The F4s can matrix meter with a non-AF AIS lens, while I believe the 8008 
>will not (because it can't tell maximum lens apeture?).  
> 
>Can someone confirm this?
> 
> 

Consider it confirmed.  Not only will it matrix meter with non-AF lenses,
but it will also show all details in the viewfinder like aperture setting,
etc, something that the 8008s couldnt do. It irked me when I had to keep
taking my eyes from the viewfinder to confirm the aperture I had set. The
F4S has ADR (Aperture Direct Readout) like the eariler F series, as well
as an electronic readout in the viewfinder with AF lenses. This is one of
the reasons that I sold the 8008/6006. I found that I wasnt using them
because I could never quickly confirm the exposure I was shooting at!
(exposure of 1/125 never told me much!).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stephen R Faust                                         faust@bagels.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corp.                            faust@bagels.enet.dec.com
Networks and Communications                                   (508) 486-7433
Littleton, MA
============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: dranidis@informatik.uni-muenchen.de (Dimitris Dranidis)
Subject: Minolta MD 70-210
Organization: Leibniz-Rechenzentrum, Muenchen (Germany)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1992 11:17:09 GMT


Hello,

i am thinking of buying the zoom MD 70-210 for my Minolta X-700. 
I already have the 28-70 Zoom. 
I would like to hear some comments on this lens, especially from 
people, that they have used it.
Should I prefer another one (maybe even not Minolta)? 
What are my choices for my X-700?

Thank you,

Dimitris

P.S. e-mail to save bandwith.
~~~~~~~~~~~~e-mail: dranidis@informatik.uni-muenchen.de~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: dcousins@bbn.com (Dave Cousins)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: 4 SALE Canon A1, AV-1 & lenses
Date: 28 Jul 1992 14:17:37 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

I am divesting myself of the following equipment.
I want to sell the whole thing as a package.
prices in parenthesis are what I paid/or list whichever I could find out)
Bodies:
Canon A1 body w/ case (EX+)		(~>$300)
	It needs no introduction. I have taken religious care of this camera. 
Canon AV-1 Body w/ case (Good)		($239list/paid 179 new)
	Not fancy but good for a spare knock-around body. 

Lenses:
Canon 50mm f1:8 lens	(EX+)	(~$45 new?)
	The old standard.
Vivtar 70-210 lens 1:4.5 (52mm acc.)(EX+) in soft bag	(I paid $114 new)
	very convenient lens. same acc. size as standard lens.
Sears 135 f2.8 lens Macro 1:5->1:7 (mint)		($20 new (a deal))
	good for knock around. probably a korean make.
Vivitar MC 2x teleconverter (EX+) w/ case	(~$25.00 new)
	double your lens focal length.

Misc:
Canon Speed light 133A		(list $70.59)
	Simple/functional.

Hoya closeup Kit (52mm acc. size) +1 +2 +4 lenses
2 skylight filters (52mm), Hood, lens cleaning kit.

I have over $750 invested in this setup.

*******************
***   $450 OBRO ***
*******************

David Cousins

(401)-831-5984 (home mach)



Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: lannert@uni-duesseldorf.de (Detlef Lannert)
Subject: Re: EV units
Summary: They only depend on f-stop and exposure time.
Organization: Universitaetsrechenzentrum, Heinrich-Heine-Universitaet Duesseldorf
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 15:46:21 GMT

In article <Brt6un.1Ey@solbourne.com> tls@solbourne.com (Tom Schreur) writes:

>Could someone help to refresh my memory.  

I haven't been following this group for long. But I feel like having
heard about EV's and ISO before ;-)

>It is my understanding that EV is a measure of light, not related in anyway
>to ASA/ISO (ie. for a given EV the exposure will change as one changes the
>ASA on a light meter).  

EV's can *only* be calculated from f-stops and exposure times:

	exp. time    1s   1/2   1/4   1/8   1/15  1/30  1/60  1/125  1/250
	a=            0    1     2     3     4     5     6     7      8
	(extend this table forward and backward as far as you like)

	f-stop  0.7  1.0  1.4   2.0   2.8   4.0   5.6   8.0  11.0   16.0 ...
	b=       0    1    2     3     4     5     6     7     8      9  ...

EV=a+b for any given time/f-stop combination.

	           1/60 sec @  f4
	EV=         6     +     5         =   11

                   1/8 sec @  f11
	EV=         3     +     8         =   11

See how it works? Change your film speed from ISO 21/100 to 24/200, you'll
need half the exp. time => your EV will be larger by 1.

---> Should anybody ever compile an r.p FAQ, will he/she please include
     an explanation of EV's (perhaps better than mine) ? ;-)   <---

>The reason I'm asking is I have an OLD Vivitar light meter.  When this meter
>is set to EV 1 the exposure reading is always 1 sec. @ f 1.0 no matter what
>the ASA setting.  I believe this is wrong.  Or is it ME that is confussed?

I'm afraid your meter is right.

>thanks.

>tls

>tls@solbourne.com

--
Detlef Lannert      DC3EK      E-Mail: tsos@rz.uni-duesseldorf.de
"Ab morgen wird gearbeitet."
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: polaroid transfers
Date: 21 Jul 92 10:24:15 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)


Thanks to those who have replied..

I am using Arches 90 lb. hot pressed paper, and some magenta filtration.

I do get white whites if I am light painting and really burn in an area,
but with regular flash in the studio that is set for proper exposure
of a white background..or even back lit, I am getting light beige..while
on the B&W test polaroids, or even on non-transferred 59's
the white is white.

brian
From: phr@soda.berkeley.edu (Paul Rubin)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Amateur vs. Pro (was Re: International Photographer)
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:02:12 GMT
	<1992Jul23.170656.4831@clark.edu>
Organization: CSUA/UCB
NNTP-Posting-Host: soda.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: gsnow@clark.edu's message of 23 Jul 92 17:06:56 GMT

By most people's definitions, a pro is someone whose primary source
of income is photography.

Around here, the press passes you need for the police to let you into
news events like riots are issued by the police depts themselves;
generally you need to be employed by a newspaper or news agency to get
one.  This means a real newspaper, not an amateur one.  They do issue
some to freelance pro news photographers but these are -very- hard to
get.  You need to have a large track record (lots of published work)
to get these.
From: wix@eskimo.celestial.com (Dennis Wicks)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Focal length rip-off. Coincidence?
Date: 25 Jul 92 19:50:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: >>> Eskimo North (206)-FOR-EVER <<<

In article <18590@drutx.ATT.COM> chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC) writes:
> ....stuff deleted...  
>
>Have you ever put a ruler to a 2 by 4?
>
>I think they call it a nominal dimension!
>
>Chuck
 
 No, they call it dimensioned lumber.  It is rough cut to full 2x4
 and planed to the finished size.  And all 2x4s are the same size!

 Maybe the lense mfgrs are rough grinding to stated f.l. and then
 finish grinding and polishing to what ever they can get!
From: honna@concour.cs.concordia.ca (SEGEL honna)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Advice on Developing Tank
Date: 27 Jul 92 21:22:24 GMT
Organization: Concordia University, Montreal, Quebec

In article <1992Jul25.001420.1@cc.curtin.edu.au> zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au (Paul Repacholi) writes:
>In article <1992Jul23.021757.18007@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu>, sylve_ge@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Gerald Sylvester) writes:
>> I decided to buy a new developing tank.  I am not doing anything that
>> fancy so I guess I would prefer a plastic tank with a 2 or 3 film
>> capacity and with an auto-load reel.  Stainless Steel will probably

>A patterson is a Patterson, except in the land of marketing, where it's a
>Saunders or some such... However, the reels are the same since the year dot.
>EXCEPT for a short time they had a teflon coating on them. If you find some 2nd
>hand in a junk pile that a a *PALE* tan colour, grab them with both hands. You
>can load the mothers wet!!
>The new system 4 tanks are very good. The old ones never seemed to want to seal
>properly, and the center tube and reels are the same. You can also 'cut and
>shut' them with black PVC to make whatever monster size you need.

I agree that the System 4 tanks are an improvement over the leaky predecessors.
I would like to point out that the Paterson (sp?) reels gave me nothing but 
grief - a reel only a masochist could love - until I modified one.  I have
by-passed the ball-bearing (bb) ratchet system because far too often it is in-
effective.  It seems to me that the tracks in which the bb's move are set
too far apart to effectively grip the film and hold it still while the 
other bb does its trick.  So...to the how-to...

Disassemble the reel.  Look at each half in turn.  Locate the part of the
spiral just inward of the bb; notice that it has a bit of a wave in it within
1.5 inches of the bb.  I carved a groove, with appropriate dimension and with
appropriate orientation, in the upper wall of that little wavy section, just
past the bb.  I can now VERY quickly load the reel, without jamming and with-
out even moving the reel halves relative to each other; I pinch the film
slightly cross-wise to stiffen it...and push.  I can even load two 36s back-
to-back with no problem.  I find it faster even than the stainless reels.

One disadvantage to the P System 4 is temperature control.  Forget about 
tempering baths; determine the typical rate of temperature rise/time period
which goes along with your agitation method, film, developer, blah, blah, blah. 

 Be as consistent as you can in  
your starting temperature (developer, in particular) and you will settle 
down to a ritual for your processing before too long.

Oh, yeah.  I carved the groove with a long stretch of dental floss threaded
through the wall of each half of the reel.

HS/MT
--
***************************************************************
honna segel
department of computer science
concordia university  *****************************************
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 11:39:13 EDT
From: <JSN3@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: grad programs in NE

Since photography has always been my true love I'm considering going back to
school.  Since I work and have a family I'd have to work on the degree part
time.  I'm in Allentown, PA which is about 90 miles from New York and 60
miles from Phila.  I tend to doubt whether most grad programs are set up for
the "non-traditional" student.  Has anyone on the net had any experience in
going back to school in Photography?  (I'm assuming an MFA or MA Fine Arts
program)


From: feltman@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Robert Feltman)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 17:33:12 GMT
Subject: Re: ENLARGING 35mm/Med.format/other
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

You did not say whether you wanted to do the enlarging yourself. Indeed,
6x9 is tougher to get done commercially without going to a pro lab,
but the typical pro lab should be equipped for it.

The Graphlex was a good recommendation. If you get a 4x5 you can get
roll film holders for it, used, at a good price and shoot 6x7 or 6x9,
which ever you choose.

With todays films, and a good lens, 6x7 should give you the performance
you want. If the Fuji 6x7 gives you enough angle of coverage that 
would be another option.

With the Graphlex, you could also get a Polaroid holder and get an idea
of what your picture will look like in real time..

Bob
i
 .
Newsgroups: rec.photo