From: mike@gilligan.East.Sun.COM (Mike Roncadori)
Newsgroups: rec.boats
Subject: Re: winterizing: Outboard
Date: 1 Oct 1992 08:04:38 -0400
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. - Vienna, Va.
NNTP-Posting-Host: gilligan.east.sun.com

In article <1992Sep30.233537.28494@n8emr.cmhnet.org> gws@n8emr.cmhnet.org (Gary Sanders) writes:
>
>
>What about fire extingishers? can they be stored outside?
>
>With the exception of running a gas winterizer through the motor
>what else needs to be done. I see now drain plugs to pull. should the
>motor be stored in a down or up position?
>
>

This is mostly for freshwater-run boats, perhaps someone
else can comment on saltwater-run boats.

You need to "fog" the engine, and lubricate all the points ref-
erenced in the owner's manual. You can buy fogging spray at al-
most any marine dealer, and some auto supply houses (I think
K-mart even has it). To fog the engine, you'll need what I call
a flush muff (I think they're really called motor flushers).
Again, these are pretty readily available. Also, get some fuel
dryer (I think it's called dri-gas, or something like that).

First, pour in your gas dryer. That way, while running/fogging
your motor, you are also dispersing fuel dryer throughout the
fuel system.

I always start the motor (that's what the flush muff is for,
to provide water to the motor from a garden hose), run it up
until it's warm, remove the carburetor intake cover, then
restart, and pull the gas line off. When the engine starts
to run lean (rpms go up), I spray fog directly down the carb
barrels. The engine will slow considerably when you do this,
and it generates alot of smoke. Ideally, you want to almost
stall the engine with fog. When the engine runs out of fuel,
I spray the carbs down, and replace the intake cover. Then,
remove the spark plugs, and spray some fog in each cylinder.
Replace the plugs, and make sure to tilt the engine all the
way dow, so the water jackets drain real good.

Change the lower unit lubricant, and look carefully for any
signs of water in it. If you see water, fix the offending
seal before storage. Of course, refill the lower unit, as well.

Then, do all your greasing of joints, remove the prop, and
stuff oiled rags into the exhaust ports (behind the prop,
on most thru-prop exhaust motors). Grease the prop shaft
real well, and bag the lower unit with a trash bag. This
is mostly to keep dirt off it, if you store it outside.

Then, park the boat where you're going to store it, tilt the
engine all the way down (this is important when you have power
tilt/trim, because you don't want the trim pegs exposed, or
they might pit from weathering, and damage a seal next year).
Remove the battery, and all drain plugs from the boat, make
sure to either repack or refill your wheel bearings, and wrap
it up. Of course, you should remove all gear from the boat,
and store it inside before winter storage.

Optionally (I plan to do it this year), remove the trailer
wheels, set it on blocks, and store the wheels suspended from
the hub center in your basement (so the tires don't flat-spot).

Oh yeah... I guess a wash and wax wouldn't hurt, either...

Did I forget anything? (Winterizing always depresses me...)

-- Mike

-------------------------------------------------------------
My opinions, not my employer's
From: bsmith@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Brian Smith)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 19:36:07 GMT
Subject: Re: "A Rigger's Bend". Was: Hunter's Bend.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO