HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: david@eos.ncsu.edu (JOSEPH WAYNE DAVID)
Subject: [A]  Perf. Mods, Case History
Originator: david@c30003-2410br.mae.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: david@eos.ncsu.edu (JOSEPH WAYNE DAVID)
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:21:50 GMT


Keywords: 

Just a brief article to share some of my experiences with air cooled 
VW performance mods. I should point out that I like to tinker with
bugs and do all of my machine work myself, thus saving much money.
I also am not trying to "toot my own horn" but simply share some of my
experiences. Most of the information I have found useful over the years
has come from Gene Berg in Orange, CA.

For the last five years, I have had a '72 bug with the engine described below:

	2180cc (92mm x 82mm), counterweighted crank, balanced assembly
	Ported and polished big valve cylinder heads (40mm x 35.5 mm)
	0.385 in. lift, 310 deg. duration cam (256 deg duration @ 0.050 lift)
	1.5:1 ratio rocker arms with dual valve springs
	Lightened flywheel with 2300 lb Kennedy clutch plate
	Dual Weber 44mm IDF carbs
	Large tube (1 5/8 in.) drag race exhaust system with dual mufflers
	Comp. ratio of about 8:1
	Bosch 009 dist.

This engine makes driving my bug a great deal of fun to say the least. 
I regularly turn the engine to 7,200 rpm. I also do power shifts occasionally,
but do not do drag race starts as I do not have the appropriate flywheel or 
transmission to do this. I have installed Gene Berg's transmission  and 
engine mount and they seem to help. The cooling system is STOCK with the 
addition of an external filter.

Problems:

	It seems that most aftermarket piston rings are cast iron. By 
	leaning out the fuel/air mixture and advancing the timing, I was
	improving the performance but the increased temperature caused the
	rings to loose their tension and it started pumping oil at
	15,000 mi. Replaced rings, richened mixture, reduced timing advance
	and no problems in another 25,000 mi.

	Valve guides are a problem. Due to the high valve lift and strong
	springs, exhaust guides only last about 25,000 mi. I am currently
	working on what I hope are some solutions.

Cruising on the highway at 70 mph, I get about 25 mpg. The oil temp. cruising
at 70 mph is a consistant 120 deg. F above ambient. I think the low compression
ratio is the key here. I advanced the cam timing a little and thus I have good
idle quality at about 1,000 rpm. I also use 92 octane gas EXCLUSIVELY. 

I recenly disassembled the engine and found the case and internals to be in
very good condition. Very little case or bearing wear. The cylinders were out
of round, probably a result of the thin-wall 92mm design. Next engine, I will 
follow Berg's advice and use the thick-wall 90.5mm design.


I hope you find this useful. If you have any questions or comments, please feel 
free to drop me a note.

Joe
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: wtjones@sr.hp.com ()
Subject: Re: [W] OXS Removal - an answer!
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:13:25 GMT
Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.1]

Rajiv K Agrawala (rkast2+@pitt.edu) wrote:


STUFF OUT



: Then he explained to me the secret of how he got it off. The sensor
: area needs to be heated, either by running and/or torch. Then, you
: spray lots of penetrating oil into the slight crack, where it gets
: sucked in by the pressure drop and by the cooling. This gets the
: lubricant to the threads. (I remember hearing that drilling holes just
: to the threads is a good idea). Keep doing this repeatedly and keep
: applying the wrench. Sooner or later (took them 1 hr) it'll come off.

: Hope this helps either now or in the future.



My '85 Jetta has 177+K miles on it and I finally got around to 
changing the OX sensor.  I used a 8" crecent wrench and took about 
2 or 3 minutes to get it out.  :-}   

Also, the new sensor had the anti-seize on the threads.  It cost about
$38.00 locally
From: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu (Jay Lonner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Engine mods
Date: 6 Jan 93 18:34:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: nessie.6JAN199310345747
Reply-To: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu
Organization: Western Washington University
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.40

Hello,

I have a '68 Bug that's really in pretty good shape.  I'm thinking of tweaking
the engine a little and I wonder what you residents of netland advise.

Let me note right off the bat that I am not interested in boring/stroking the
engine, nor do I want to create a hot-rod.  I am interested in improving the
engine in all respects, longevity included.

With that in mind, let me list some of the modifications that I am
considering...

1) Dual port heads, ported and polished
2) New carb(s) (I don't know much about the pros and cons of dual carbs,
   someone want to fill me in?)
3) "Doghouse" fan and shroud
4) Remote oil cooler
5) Get the crankshaft balanced (I'm not sure what this is either, but a local
   VW guru told me it was a good idea to increase longevity and reduce
   vibration, &c.)
6) Free flow exhaust (but one the keeps the heater boxes!)
7) 009 distributor

Now, which of these mods are a good idea, and which are dumb?  I don't live in
state that has emissions standards, but at the same time I don't want to drive
the Greenhouse Effect.

Also, what can I expect to pay for parts and a machinist's time?

Lastly, what books might I want to buy?  I already have Muir and Bentley's.

I know that this is a lot of questions, but I want to get as much information
as possible before committing myself (and my beloved Bug) to drastic action.

Thanks in advance,

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

nosig
From: amh2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (ALOIS M. HIMSL)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: AUDI GT COUPE PARTS...HELP!
Date: 5 Jan 93 18:33:35 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Finding inexpensive parts for my 1983 Audi GT is worse than trying to look for
a needle in a haystack. Anybody out there have an idea where I can go.
Whenever I see one in a junkyard, it usually is stripped down to the bare
frame.  Mailorder places tend to be alittle on the expensive side, and of
course, forget the dealerhip, unless you are willing to give them your bank
account.
Al Himsl
From: bill@tss.com (Bill Castellano)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Using Brakes....a Clarification
Date: 12 Jan 93 18:09:31 GMT
Organization: Teknekron Software Systems, Inc.

In article <1993Jan11.162842.19461@news.cs.brandeis.edu> andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>Just some random points about downshifting
>
>When I downshift, I try to put _no_ wear on the clutch by matching
>revs properly.  If done right, engine braking is occurs only after the
>clutch is fully engaged and so no (clutch) wear comes from it.
 
 
you mean to tell me that you guys use the clutch?

bill 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
bill castellano / teknekron software systems / elan / gti 16v /bill@tss.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
me                us                           fast   slower   slowest
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov (Mike Ross)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:54:29 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Company

In article <6JAN199310345747@nessie.cc.wwu.edu> 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu writes:
>
>With that in mind, let me list some of the modifications that I am
>considering...
>
>4) Remote oil cooler
>5) Get the crankshaft balanced (I'm not sure what this is either, but a local
>   VW guru told me it was a good idea to increase longevity and reduce
>   vibration, &c.)

All those mod's look good, but unless you're racing or high-revving,
the balanced crank will be expensive.  I would suggest taking your 
case to the machine shop to have the jug-holes (cylinder supports)
on the case machined perfectly parallel to the centerline.  This is
known, I believe, as having the case 'decked'.  Most cases have had 
these surfaces pounded, such that the cylinders no longer are perpendicular
to the crankshaft.  This causes a lot of friction and a hot-running
engine.

Regarding the remote oil cooler, I believe the dog-house oil cooler
is quite sufficient (make sure the thermostat and the cold-air baffles
and linkage are present and working). I WOULD recommend, however, an oil
filter, they make 'em where the spin-on filter goes on the oil pump at
the rear (REAR is REAR) of the motor.  A remote oil cooler WILL leak, 
or at least weep, and make a mess fairly soon.

Remember, stock is the most reliable and most long-lasting, unless you
love to tinker all the time with it.

-mike

-- 
******************************** mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov *****
* Michael L. Ross/C33 | Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Co.   *
* Robotics Department | 2400 Nasa Rd. 1, Houston, TX 77062    *
*(713)333-7094 voice,(713)333-7201 fax**********boring, eh?****
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tsh@snakemail.hut.fi (Timo Hyv|nen)
Subject: The new group - when is it coming?
Organization: Helsinki University of Technology, Finland
Distribution: rec
Date: 08 Jan 93 13:23:07 GMT


Hi

I've been followin news.groups for few days now, but I haven't seen any
discussion conserning the new vw-groups. Has there been a RFD or CFV 
for those? I remember seeing the introductions of the new ones somewhere
some time back, but nothing since that.

If there hasn't been a RFD, I suggest that someone who knows the creation
procedure better than me, would make one for creation of rec.autos.vw.air.

Humbly yours

Timo

--
: 						tsh@hut.fi Timo Hyv|nen :
:	Hommahan luistaa kuin s|k| kytkin!	90-654 062		:
:			-176-671-		949-704 424             :
:						Vuorikatu 22B44 Hki 10	:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: cabriolet voltage stabalizer
Keywords: cabriolet, vw
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 16:55:35 GMT

In article <C0MLyD.JJ4@sdf.lonestar.org>, davidb@sdf.lonestar.org (David Brandon) writes:
|>  i have a 85 cabriolet and the instrument panel works sometimes...
|>  since this has started, i have replace the voltage stabilizer and
|>  this fixed the problem for the next 1000 miles, but once again
|>  the panel doesnt work. i have the vw service manual and the
|>  schematics only show the stabilizer as the weak link.
|>  Doth anyone have any idea on why this thing either doesnt work
|>  or why it keeps on commiting suicide?!

I assume you are talking about the little 3-pin transistor-like cased device.
These were used in all water-cooled dashes.  I have not had any problems with
them failing.  This regulator is only used by the gauges, all the lights and
other indicators are driven from the normal battery and switched battery power.
If all the functions are stopping you may have an intermittent ground connection
in the multi-pin connector to the instrument cluster. When you remove and
reinstall it you wipe the contacts and get a good connection again.

Try cleaning the connector and mating surfaces on the foil circuit with an
eraser and see if that helps.  If the regulator itself is failing, you may have
a bad gage that is drawing too much current and overheating it.   Also be
sure that you are replacing the regulator with one from a quality manufacturer
and not some unknown aftermarket firm.  AS I recall, most of them are from TI.
I will check my spare cluster tonight if you are interested.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: '74 Super...Valves
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 22:54:52 GMT

In article <MfGQy4O00iV382KYIS@andrew.cmu.edu>, db6j+@andrew.cmu.edu (Douglas S. Brashear) writes:
>First off I'd like to thank everyone who has given me advice so far
>about my '74 SuperBeetle's emission problems  :-)
>-----
>Okay...its me again with my wonderful '74 SuperBeetle also wondering to
>myself "Whats up with that"...
>anyways...
>I have replaced the oil, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and I'm gonna
>do the points too; how many people out there think I should adjust the
>valves too?
>
>STIPULATION: before you give me a 'yes, do the valves' answer, you have
>to have done it before yourself...successfully.  I have the "Idiot Book"
>and Mr. Muir makes it sound so easy...it also sounds like a major
>bonding event with your car.  


DO THE VALVES!!!!!!!!   They should be done about every other
oilchange anyway. If you haven't done it before allow yourself
about 45 min to an hour. Take your time...do it right.

Bond with your bug. Then have a beer.

Ric 

>
>I'm probably gonna take it for the emissions test again after I get the
>points in and the carb adjusted...if it doesn't pass I'm probably going
>to have a go at the valves...
>Anybody have any helpful hints or things to look for?
>-Thanks in Advance...
>DOUG
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eschwa@teal.csn.org (Emerson Schwartzkopf)
Subject: Re: Carbs vs Fuel Injection
Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:51:51 GMT

Okay, let's open this up some more. If it's to be carbs, what kind? Single
or dual? Weber or Dellorto?

I have dual Dellortos on a '72 bus and scared the (your favorite here) out
of some people on the Riverside freeway last year when I passed them at 80
mph without a sweat. Getting them adjusted took at least two good garage
visits and the installation ran about $900. They don't ice at 10 below F,
either.

Emerson Schwartzkopf  eschwa@csn.org
Gunnison, Colo.
Hey, I didn't vote for Amendment 2, either.
From: bigfoot@sequent.com (Gregory Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Qustions on Vanagon with Weekender Package
Date: 7 Jan 93 02:12:41 GMT
Article-I.D.: sequent.1993Jan7.021241.5550
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc.

steveh@amadeus.wr.tek.com (Steve Huss) writes:

I had an '86 'Wolfsburg Edition' Vanagon which was what I would call a
weekender. It was a pretty nice van. It had a 12-volt refrigerator that
opened on the top that bolted in behind the passenger's seat. It came 
with an extra battery to power the fridge, since it was not
a propane unit. The xtra battery used an ordinary cigarette lighter
plug that was at the base of the passenger seat to connect to the fridge.
(Handy, you could use it to power other things as well.)

Behind the driver's seat was a backwards-facing bucket seat with no 
headrest. It had the pull-up cushion with storage underneath.
That was also easily removable.

It had the cabinet in the same place the full camper does by the rear 
cushion, but the bench cushions were full-width, resulting in a wide
bed that was more narrow at one end. 

And, of course, it had the fold-up table between the bench and the
backwards bucket seat. The fridge could be used as a seat around the
table if the person didn't mind sitting on a "box". It also served as
a handy step to the upper bed. 

I traded it in after 100K+ miles on a new '89 full camper. The full 
camper is better for me because I use it for alot of camping and 
cross country treks with my S.O., although I may have to sell it soon
so that I can purchase a house.

Both of my campers have been great cars. I do recommend an '86 or later
because they have a slightly bigger engine, and you notice the difference
in the torque right away.    Good luck!    
                                         -Greg 
 
>Hi folks!

>I'm considering buying a Vanagon with the weekender package (If I can
>find one) I like the idea of some storage with a bed. I'm pretty sure 
>that some or all variations came with a pop top, this would also be 
>nice. I'm shying away from a full fledged camper because I need the 
>seating/storage space and don't want to always carry around 
>a complete kitchen.

>My hunch is that the weekender was only available for a few years before
>VW just provided the GL camper to the US market. Anyone out there that 
>can detail the years available and the exact configurations? Also, did
>the rear bench/bed extend the complete width of the van or was there
>more cabinetry similar to the camper?

>Thanks for any help,

>Steve
From: cq019@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Preston Landers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: You are here
Date: 9 Jan 1993 01:32:28 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: cq019@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Preston Landers)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


	Is this the proper place to post a techinical question about an Audi 
5000?  They're made by VW after all, aren't they?
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRESTON LANDERS                                cq019@cleveland.freenet.edu
"The man in the crowd with the multicolored mirrors on his hobnail boots."
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Subject: Re: [W] '90 Passat with gear shifting problems
Keywords: Passat, transmission
Reply-To: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 18:06:05 GMT

I have the same problem with my '91 although not very pronounced. What I do is shift between 1st & 2nd a couple of times then into reverse.  It seems to help.  I have had this problem with a few cars over the years.  Extra shifting seems to help.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lytle@noao.edu (Dyer Lytle  CCS)
Subject: [A] tuned exhaust with defrost? 1.7 -> 2.0 liter upgrade?
Keywords: defrost, exhaust, upgrade
Organization: National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, USA
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:52:28 GMT






Greetings,

A couple of questions for the more experienced air-cooled VW owners out there.

If I add a tuned exhaust system to my 72 camper bus engine, how do I rig
up a defroster (assuming I get an exhaust system without the heat exchange
boxes as on the stock system)??  Do most of you just do without heat and
defrost when you build up a performance engine??  Are there tuned exhaust
systems with heat exchangers? (most that I have seen for sale don't have them)

The guys down at the v-dub shop say that the best performance mod for my
1.7 liter engine is to upgrade it to a 2.0 liter engine.  They will be glad
to do it for a mere $2500.  Apparently, I can get a long block 2.0 liter
engine for about $1100 so it seems that if I do it myself I can save quite
a bit.  What components does a "long-block" come with??  Will I be able
to use the same "tin" around the engine if I upgrade to a 2.0 liter??
What carburetor setup is recommended?? (I have a single 2-barrel carb now)
Assuming I buy a rebuilt 2.0 liter long block, should I take it apart and
have it balanced before I install it??  (I like smooth, quiet engines!)

thanks for any information....

 -Dyer



-- 
Dyer Lytle, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, Tucson, AZ, 602-323-4136
Internet: lytle@noao.edu        SPAN: NOAO::LYTLE (NOAO=5355) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: edb17@bih.no (Svein)
Subject: test
Organization: Bergen College of Engineering, Bergen, Norway
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 93 12:39:33 GMT


just a test...

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: m17108@mwunix (Jason Douglas)
Subject: Re: '90 Vanagon Fresh-Air Intake Problem
Keywords: Dash, Vanagon
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean VA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 15:23:59 GMT

In article <C08K3J.DpD@inews.Intel.COM> sjohnson@frx193.intel.com (Steve Johnson - IMD ~) writes:
>Hi folks,
>
ventilation problem deleted
>
>Also, how do you remove the Stereo Cassette player?  Do I need
>a special tool?  
>
>Thanks for the info in advance,
>
>Steven

Yes, special tools are required to remove the radio in newer vws and audis, 
but you can make them yourself.  If you look closely at the radio you will see
two holes on each side of the front panel.  U-shaped tools are inserted into
these to push back a spring clip on each side and to pull the radio out.  I
made a crude copy of these tools from a metal coat hanger.  It takes a little
fiddling.  Pay particular attention to having the prongs straight.

Jason (jdouglas@mitre.org)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: [W] What's up with that...
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 10:20:28 GMT

> "<2884203EC400@sscl.uwo.ca>" (some guy without a name) wrote:
> -  Why is it that the radio does not go off with the key?  [ . . . ]

beorn@berkeley.edu (Beorn Johnson) writes:
> My '92 Jetta has the radio with the security feature that disables the
> radio when power to it (the radio) goes out (like when it's removed from
> the car).  You can't connect it to a switched source or you would have to
> punch in the security code every time you turned the ignition.

These units typically have a separate power input for the security feature.
My wife's '86 GTI (where the radio power goes off when you remove the key,
just like the new ones) has no problems with her security-coded Blaupunkt.

Personally I *like* the radio-ignition independence.  That's the way most
cars work in Europe, but North American users are used to the radio being
switched off when you turn off the ignition...

> -  What is wrong with the standard five-speed pattern that the rest of the 
> -  world uses.  [ . . . ]

The VW shift pattern is quite usual, still, with only reverse in a different
place (where you're less likely to shift into it accidentally while looking
for yet another gear on the highway):

	R  1  3  5
	|  |  |  |
	| -+--+--+
	+/ |  |
	   2  4

Now, my 914 shift pattern certainly takes more getting used to:  :)

	R  2  4
	|  |  |
	+--+--+
	|  |  |
	1  3  5


[ \tom haapanen    "i don't even know what street canada is on" -- al capone ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca                   "trust the programmer" -- ansi c standard ]
[ waterloo engineering software      "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Vdub bugs
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:53:29 GMT

In article <1993Jan7.211040.19558@pony.Ingres.COM> garrett@Ingres.COM (WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS) writes:
>	I've experienced a few things that I can't explain 
>with my super beetle and maybe someone could explain them.
>
>1. Why is it that when it's raining, the windshield seems to collect
>   water rather than get rid of it?

You have a Bermuda version of the car that is required to collect
rainwater for drinking later.  If you want you can just put a long
straw from the floorboards to the dash.  :-)1
>
>2. Is it just my car, or does this happen to everyone? When you are low
>   on gas, and you make a sharp right turn, the car sputters.

This is obviously a VW tradition.  My 84 GTI [W] also does this.

>3. I remember seeing old commercials about Vdub bugs that show them floating
>   in water. But mine has 2 inches of water in the floorboards right now
>   when it's raining. It even leaks just when I wash it.

This proves that water won't get in when you drive off a dock.  You _do_
know that if Ted Kennedy drove a VW, he'd be President?

-andy
From: v129qp43@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (Hugh Jarvis - Anthropology Dept.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: (w) speedometer is jumpy
Date: 11 Jan 93 02:09:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Anyone else have a speedo needle that is not all that steady?
Mine tends to be a little jumpy at various speeds, mostly higher
ones.  I thought it might relate to tire bounce/spin ie. uneven
speed due to slippage in front tires....  but I wonder if it
may be something in the cable or the speedo itself.  Anyone
have any experience here?   Thanks.
  Hugh Jarvis C129QP43@UBVM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw