HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gwp+@cs.cmu.edu (Gregg Podnar)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Isetta: death of Kaye Whitnah
Date: 7 Oct 92 20:24:42 GMT
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

My brother just received a note from Kaye Whitnah's daughter that this Isetta
enthusiast and resoration parts producer has died.  His son plans to attempt
to fill outstanding orders for parts, and the future of this source is 
uncertain.  Kaye's encouragement helped get and keep a lot of Isetta's on the 
road.
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov
Subject: RFI:Getting Texas Antique Plates/Registration
Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 22:30:03 GMT

   I have purchased a set of 1963 plates for my 1963 comet. I wish to have the
car registered with the plates as a antique auto in Texas. I have the forms to 
do it but they seem a bit vague on the process. Could someone who has done it
lend some personal experience? Also what are the restrictions on use, I've
talked to some people and I've gotten varying limitations.


Thanxs in advance

Kris


Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: lisbon@vpnet.chi.il.us (Gerry Swetsky)
Subject: Re: what is the true definition of antique & classic
Organization: Vpnet Public Access
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 02:55:05 GMT

In article <Oct.14.14.27.02.1992.9579@athos.rutgers.edu> crispin@athos.rutgers.edu (Rick Crispin) writes:
>
>What are the true years for Antique & Classic ????  

    Here we go again - it depends on whom you ask.  For the purpose of
    this newsgroup, an antique is any car manufactured 25 years ago or
    before.

    The definition of a classic is much more fuddled.  The Classic Car
    Club of America has a list of cars that they officially recognize
    as classics most of which were manufactured between 1925 and 1948.
    To someone who has a '56 Chevy that sparkles in the sunlight, they
    insist they own a classic.  In their eyes they do.  In my eyes they
    don't, though I'm envious.

--
============================================================================
| Help stamp out stupid .signature files!           Gerry Swetsky  WB9EBO  |
|                 vpnet - Public access Unix and Usenet                    |
| Home (708)833-8122       vpnet (708)833-8126      lisbon@vpnet.chi.il.us |
============================================================================
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: meganb@sequent.com (Megan Breninger)
Subject: Northwest Car Collectors Show!!!
Summary: This weekend in Portland, Oregon!
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 14:40:25 GMT

Hi all!

        My name is Megan, and I am displaying for everyones viewing
pleasure, my co-owned 1968 Chevelle Malibu at the Exposition Center
in Portland, Oregon during the Northwest Car Collectors Show and
Swap Meet this weekend, the 17th and 18th of October.

Admission is reasonable, something like 3 or 4 dollars, I believe,
and the show/swap meet starts at 8 a.m. both Saturday and Sunday.

This kind of meet always draws a crowd...of sellers, buyers and
dreamers, so, come on down and ooh and ahhh at the car of your
dreams, and get some good ideas and bargins while you're there!!!

(I am not affiliated in any way with any car club <yet>, and am
not paying money to display my car for prizes or gifts...I am
sending this message over the net for the interest of old car buffs
far and wide, and will make no profit from the attendence!  Thanks!)

Megan, Larry her Fiance, Clyde his Black Lab, Edgar her Black Cat,
and High Action Hank, APHA, her WONDER HORSE!
From: aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Re: emissions
Date: 13 Oct 1992 22:11:30 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


(me agin..sorry..)
Mr. Wayne (bruce? Bruce wayne)..sorry..uncalled for..anyhow..
Mr. Wayne says that everybody used to yank the cats out for
performance..but the new ones are much more freeflowing, right?

Well, maybe you are right, or maybe it just depends on the car.
I am a car fan, but happen to own German (i see flames already..)
and thus read a magazine dealing with European cars called _European
Car_ (rilly???) BTW.this a GREAT scource (i think) for anyone who
reads here that likes primarily german vehicles, though they cover 
some others also..back to the point..A company called Dinan which
is native to CA was featured in it recently..and with a BMW 535i.
(for u who may not know, that is a fairly large car:5series and has
a 3.5 litre six cylinder in it)..this particular model was running
Dinan equipment turbo system and was jamming 405 clean, legal horses
out of the 3.5 liter..(that seems respectable, no matter what kind
of cars you are biased towards)..oddly enuff..this car had the stock
cat on it...when asked why he left it on, he replies that you can
net about a 5hp gain from removing it, but you can net 20-30 horses
by rebaffling the mufflers...hmm...kinda makes me wonder what IS what
these days...sorry so long..sorry no editor..sorry neither American
nor antique, but here it is...thanx for indulging!
Andrew
ps is there another autos somewhere??like, maybe more intune to MY 
specific needs..i like this one, but i wonder..thanx!
-- 
So my last quote was way off...i screwed it up.. i'll come up with 
a new one sometime soon....
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: rsch2883@cl2.cl.uh.edu (Otterstad, Erik/PLEDGER, RAY)
Subject: 56 pontiacs
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Reply-To: RSCH2883@cl.uh.edu
Organization: University of Houston - Clear Lake
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 00:52:00 GMT
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Old car prices (was: Re: re: 1956 Mercury Information)
Keywords: mercury
Date: 15 Oct 92 20:38:33 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <hennie.23.0@nuustak.csir.co.za> hennie@nuustak.csir.co.za (Hennie Rautenbach) writes:
>Hi
>How I wish I could obtain such a book here in South Africa. Prices on 
>classic cars are thumb-sucked here in most cases. I'm a fins and chrome 
>fanatic but these cars (55 to 61) are extremely rare to come by. Only a few 
>US cars were produced locally during that period. The most popular 
>collectors items of that period is most definitely Chevy's, especially the 
>57 Bel Air and the 59 Bel Air and Impala. 
>
>What would the value in US $ be of a restored 57 Bel Air Sport Coupe and a 4 
>door with the stovebolt six ? Are they fairly common there ?
>
'55-57 Chevys are fairly easy to come by here. They're so easy, that up until
until the past couple years, the 4 door sedans were often considered little
more than rolling parts donors for the 2 door hardtops and convertibles.
But there is very high interest in 2 door hardtops and convertibles.

This fact is reflected in the prices. A V8 '57 BelAir sport coupe, restored
is typically running in the $20-25,000 range, although some are asking over
$30,000. An identical 4 door sedan, on the other hand, would be difficult
to get $10,000, if you could find someone who even wanted it. Most 4 doors
are not restored for this reason (at this point in time). I have seen
few people asking more than $6-8000 for a 4 door in excellent condition.
Throw in a 6 cylinder instead of a V8, and it drops some more. For this
reason, if you like these cars and are on a budget, a 4 door sedan needing
very little work is the way to go. They're the only ones that aren't
grossly overpriced IMHO. BTW convertibles are running $30-50,000. All these
prices are US dollars, btw.

With these prices, every time I go to look at a "nicer" 5-6-7 Chevy, I come
home and my 6 cylinder 2 door sedan gets better looking all the time.  :-)
I didn't pay anywhere near these outrageous prices for it, and it's not
worth those kind of prices, either. And frankly, I'm glad it isn't.
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay)
Subject: Re: 57 Ford
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 11:02:47 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.190648.11822@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> fec@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (f.e.carey) writes:
"was 1953 as noted above.   Is it possible that the Canadian
"Fords kept the flathead longer?

i recall reading that ford of canada was still making flatheads for
industrial uses in the early '70s, and that someone in canada was
using them to make (all steel) replica '33s.

"Mercury engines were very similar to Fords.  Lincoln flatheads were quite 
"different.  I don't know much about them except that they are physicallly 
"larger and use a different head bolt configuration - possibly more than 24
"per head.

mercury engines _were_ fords, as far as i know.
until the early '50s, lincoln flatheads were *v12s*; the zephyr (which
was renamed after the war when the big lincoln was dropped) was
basically a streched ford with a smallish 12 -- stretching to 305 ci
at its end -- hooked to the ford tranny (what a natural for your
classic hotrod! [oops -- forgot where i was! ;^> ]).
incidentally, both lincoln 12s were 75 degree v.

-- 
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Andrew Hay	|	I am not an expert,				       |
a_d_hay@att.com	|			 but I play one on the Internet!       |
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: farber@triumph.Princeton.EDU (Henry S. Farber)
Subject: Re: Old Car Emissions (Update)
Summary: comment and modest proposal
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 12:53:44 GMT



In article Mark Shaw writes:

  It's time we started to discriminate old car collectors
  from those who simply exploit older cars to avoid local taxes,
  higher insurance costs, tougher emissions tests, or save a buck.   
  
  
People who actually use older cars because they cost less are NOT
"exploiting" anything except relatively low prices.  This is what we all
do when we look for a bargain.  I never buy a new car.  It is
ridiculously expensive in all dimensions (purchase cost, insurance,
etc).  There is nothing wrong with this.

If there are societal costs of using older cars that the prices do not
incorporate, then the prices should be fixed (with taxes) so that we
face the right set of incentives when we make our car choices.  For
example, older cars could cost more to register.  Regular users of older
cars would pay (perhaps much) more for plates to compensate the rest of
us for the pollution.  Occasional users of older cars could get antique
plates with restricted driving rules for not much more than regular
plates.  This would neatly discourage regular use of older cars and its
concommitent pollution without punishing the collector.

However, tarring the current regular users of older cars as exploting
anything is harsh and misleading.  We all respond to relative prices. 
In fact, the proper functioning of our market economy (if it really is
functioning properly!) relies on this.

(Now maybe I should zip up my flame suit!)

My gripe about older cars has to do with the new collectors who know
nothing about their cars (don't work on em, don't drive em much) but
have money and bid up the price until out of reach of the rest of us.  I
really have no philosophical problem with this, as people ought to be
free to buy what they want.  However, it does sadden me.

For your purusal, here are my family's cars so you can see where I am
coming from:

Everyday Cars:

1983 Mercedes 300TD (125K miles, purchased at 90K miles)
1986 BMW 325 (65K miles, purchased at 50K miles)

Fun cars:

1960 Triumph TR-3A
1973 BMW 2002tii

Dry weather commuter:

1982 Yamaha 650 Maxim

The total value of this collection is probably about the same as the
cost of a pair of new relatively "nice" Japanese cars.  (Toyota Camry,
etc), and it is a heck of a lot more fun. 

Hank Farber
farber@princeton.edu

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: milliganc@woods.ulowell.edu
Subject: Re: Jags?
Organization: University of Lowell
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 16:57:15 GMT

Yes, there are people who like tempermental british sports cars that 
atract the atention of the local bobbies.  My personal preferences are
XK-120's, 140's, and C-type's.  My father drove an early 120 for 11 years
back when they were "just another old junk car" that could be had for a
couple hundred dollars.  Although he doesn't intend to sell much in the
way of the cars or the vast parts stores I will be happy to relay any time
tested tech info.  Like dealing with those little timing chain springs
that require at LEAST a day,if your REAL good, to change.
		Happy Motoring,
			KILROY  
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Subject: Looking for a SF area paint shop
Followup-To: alt.autos.antique
Organization: SLAC
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 19:06:53 GMT

Now that the mechanical restoration of my '66 E-Type is done it is time to
replace whats left of the original paint with something new and shiny. A
precursory check with paint shops in my area, Redwood City CA, that
specialize in restoration work knocked the wind out of my sails with prices
starting at $10k. Some places wouldn't even give a firm quote, their price
would be based on how much work would be needed once it was stripped back
to bare metal. Their sales technique was to make you and your car feel
worthless and they would be doing you a favor by even considering touching
your car. Now I know that my Jag is not full of bondo, nor is their any
rust what so ever because I've inspected all the hollow spaces, so I am not
going to give in to their scare tactics. So far the best price was about
$6-7k from Quality Coachworks and that was if I removed the chrome, rubber
and glass. I have a feeling I am also going to have to do the paint
stripping to make this project affordable.
So the question is: what's a reasonable price for a back-to bare-metal
paint job, and anyone got any shop recomendations?
(Note that I carefully avoided asking for suggestions on what color to
paint it!).
Cheers and thanks!
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: mdl@oscar.bellcore.com (Mike Lynch)
Subject: Welding Again
Reply-To: mdl@oscar.bellcore.com (Mike Lynch)
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 16:21:51 GMT


I know this subject was recently discussed here, but I notice
that the most recent Eastwood catalog is selling a non-MIG wire-feed
welder.  The wire has a flux core.  The unit is 85-amp (110V, 20A
service), has a TWECO gun, and the wire feed speed is variable from
0 to 500 ipm.  This system can be converted to MIG with the addition
of a kit ($89.95).  The ad says, "Perfect for use outside or in drafty
areas of your shop where a shielding gas gets blown away."

So, for those of you with more experience than I (and I have virtually
none), my question is, just how much of a problem are drafts when using
a MIG welder?

I had just decided to buy a MIG welder when I got this catalog.  Now
I'm uncertain again.  Should I go for just a MIG welder, or should I
have it both ways and buy this unit with the flux-core wire capability?

BTW, the price of the wire-feed welder (without the conversion kit)
is $349.00.

Any thoughts/comments/advice?

Mike Lynch
mdl@oscar.bellcore.com

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: rsch2883@cl2.cl.uh.edu (Otterstad, Erik/PLEDGER, RAY)
Subject: Texas 56 Pontys
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Reply-To: RSCH2883@cl.uh.edu
Organization: University of Houston - Clear Lake
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 00:45:00 GMT
From: zilkek@reis65.alleg.edu (Kevin Zilke)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: 83 Monte carlo 4-Sale
Date: 12 Oct 92 01:54:00 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Allegheny College


 I am selling an 83 Chevy Monte Carlo.  It has about 70,000 original miles  
on it. It is silver with gray interior, and has a removeable glass  
sunroof, and a JVC stereo cassette player with 150 watt Pioneer speakers  
in the back.  It runs well, and is in beautifull shape, really a aharp  
car.  Asking $3,000 neg.
      Direct any replies in here pr call 332-2497 anytime.
              ask for Kevin Zilke.
From: jt3y+@andrew.cmu.edu (Jason Paul Togyer)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: '75 Chevrolets
Date: 15 Oct 92 22:21:41 GMT
Organization: Freshman, CIT general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I have an odd question:

Was it possible in or around 1975 to get a full-size Chevrolet (Impala
or Bel-air..if the Bel-air lasted 'til '75) with a column-mounted
standard shift?  Like a "three on the tree?"

If you're wondering why I care, it's because I want to use a '75 Impala
like the one we used to own in a comic strip I draw.  If Chevy didn't
offer a standard shift transmission in a full-size car that year, sure
as hell one of my wiseacre motorhead buddies will call me on the carpet.
 Besides, I want to be authentic in something as important as this. 8)

Incidentally, if you cared, our Imp was a pillarless 4-door hardtop,
with a 350 and Turbo-Hydramatic.  I want to have a column shift manual
in the strip as a plot device.  Thank you in advance for your time!  You
can E-mail me direct.  "See the USA in your Chevrolet...."





 
--Jason Togyer
     Carnegie Institute of Technology
     Pittsburgh, Penn.

**"The moral of the story is: don't count your boobies before they've hatched."
       --James Thurber
            'THE UNICORN IN THE GARDEN'
From: enw2049@sigma.tamu.edu (WALKE, ERIK N)
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Subject: Proposed change to rec. group
Keywords: (What's the diff?)
Date: 7 Oct 92 15:41:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


       I apologize for my ignorance (and this is likely a FAQ), but what
       difference is there in making the current a.a.a group into a rec.
       class newsgroup?  In any event, I will follow this group through
       any changes that the Net gurus decree . . .  

       BTW, who else saw that Toyota (cough) ad last night, wherein a 
       new Toy-oda product passes by a nice early '50's Studebaker 
       coupe?  The irony was not lost. . .

***************************************************************************
  All opinions expressed by this user are well-reasoned and insightful. 
  Needless to say, they are not those of his advisor or university.
**************************************************************************
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson)
Subject: Re: Freeing stuck engine
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 16:37:52 GMT

In <26137@oasys.dt.navy.mil> plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe) writes:
>In alt.autos.antique, adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay) writes:
>>dkp@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.pearson) writes:
>>"Does anyone out there recommend a specific oil or product that will aid in
>>"the feeing of a stuck engine(ie - something that you can pour down the spark
>>"plug openings?). Thanks in advance.
>>
>>kroil, from kano research laboratory.  you can find them advertised in
>>machine design.  duno if they sell retail, though.
>>
>    Last month I finally tried Kroil for the first time on some rusted
>nuts.  It worked at least as well as the penetrating oil I'd been using;

	You're not going to believe this, but the best penetrating lube
I've ever used is standard automatic transmission fluid.  Both types
work wonders on freeing rusted or siezed parts.  Figure on a two day
wait for it to get all the way through a part, but when I break a
Snap-On wrench trying to loosen a bolt a couple days is no big deal.

	I'd toss some in the valve covers too; hopefully you can get
some of the valvetrain lubricated.  I've no idea how this would work
on hydraulic lifters, but I doubt it could hurt them much.

<Dan Sorenson, DoD #1066 |"I see angels on Ariels in leather and>
<z1dan@exnet.iastate.edu | chrome, Swooping down from heaven to >
<viking@iastate.edu      | carry me home."   ---    R. Thompson >
<ISU thinks I need more education, which they provide for a fee.>

Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: pkss@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (philip.k.sikora)
Subject: Advice on getting daily transportation antique
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 11:44:45 GMT
Keywords: advice

Hi - just joined this group & looks like the best place to ask my question:
I want to commute daily (80 mile round trip) in an antique. What are some
things to consider & what might make for a reasonable choice?

My daily transportation is an '81 Mazda GLC wagon. When scouring the local
junkyard for parts (no luck) and Whitney's for new stuff, I found that there
are more parts (in Whitney's) for a '55-'57 Chevy than for my heap. I've
always admired pre-'60's cars & the thought occurred to me that, in a certain
sense, an antique car could possibly be an appreciating asset instead of all
our depreciating assets in the driveway and shed. (That's more of a rationale
to convince the wife than anything else 8-) ).

Anyway, what I want is a station wagon that I would use every day. I don't
particularly like anything after '58. I really like the late '40's to early
50's but am concerned about parts availablility on something that's gonna get
over 20K miles per year. That's what made me thing of those Chevy's. Also, a
supervisor here who's into this stuff a bit recommended getting something (old)
with a modern drivetrain ('70's). How's that advice? Does that affect the
antique value (not that I care other than purchase price)? I should consider
gas mileage a bit, but I suppose that's ridiculous. All things considered, I'm
probably looking for something that is running, not rusted out, but nowhere near
show condition (I think that means a #3 or 4, as much as I understand about the
ratings). Since my wife's been ragging me about a mini-van (like how much room
can a 5 & 7 year old girl take up, anyway?) it would be kinda neat to get one
of those 8 or 9 passenger wagons & put these mini-vans to shame.
(I have some mechanical ability - done a couple of clutches, painted two cars -
one almost came out ok, too.)

Any and all thought/ideas/suggestions/flames/curses (maybe not those last two)
appreciated.

later
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
From: bakc@giraffe.ru.ac.za (MR KR COMAN)
Subject: Re: Freeing stuck engine
Organization: Rhodes University, Grahamstown, South Africa
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 05:15:50 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.122631.1@woods.ulowell.edu> milliganc@woods.ulowell.edu writes:
>From: milliganc@woods.ulowell.edu
>Subject: Re: Freeing stuck engine
>Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 17:26:31 GMT
>Of Stuck Engines and Kroil
>   However, the engine in our '38 Buick came from a junk yard and was stuck.
>The head was taken off(for a valve job) and plain old kerosene, availible
>from a local gas station, was poured in and left to soak.  In the end it
>used less oil than my grandfathers then new '67 Chevell wagon.  Try it,
>It's inexpensive.
>			Good Luck,
>				KILROY  

A 1924 Fiat engine that had been resting in the boonies for years was freed
up by cutting the top off a 40gal drum, inserting engine, filling drum with
diesel oil...and waiting 3 months.  (Chap owned the filling station -- 
diesel at cost.)

Keith
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique