HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: read/new
Date: 19 Dec 92 19:34:20 GMT
Reply-To: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1992Dec18.193638.8131@sx.mont.nec.com> ynecelc@sx.mont.nec.com (Ellison Chan) writes:
>In article <1992Dec18.044855.13185@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>>Recently, I saw that someone had posted a price for a "good" electronic balast
>>in the neighborhood of $150.   !!$150??   This doesn't include fixtures,
>>reflectors, hood, bulbs, nothin'!  Just the dang balast!
>>
>>Does this mean that to get a decent light set-up w/one bulb and a no-cost
>>home-made-outa-scrap-stuff hood would run in the neighborhood of $200+?????
>>
>>That's insane!?!?!  Can a ballast REALLY be WORTH (emphasis here) $150?
>>
>>				-Matt
>
>Probably not, I was able to buy a "quick start" ballast which can power
>two flourencent tubes for about $45 CND($35 US).
>-- 
>Ellison Chan, Comp. Sys. Analyst               2350 Place TransCanadienne
>HNSX Supercomputers Inc., NEC Corp.        Dorval, Quebec, Canada H9P 2X5
>E-mail: ellison@SX.Mont.NEC.COM          (514)684-7705, FAX (514)684-8619

Keep in mind that a "quick start" (rapid-start) ballast is not necessarily
an electrnonic one. A true electronic ballast doesn't run at 60Hz, but will
typically boost the frequency to 20KHz or so. This has the side benefits of
reducing flicker.
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Robert J. Raible		EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
VLSI Program Manager		 or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
From: THOMASG@epx.cis.umn.edu (Thomas D. Gasser)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (M) Detris removal with egg grate plans needed
Date: 18 Dec 92 16:40:26 GMT
Organization: Department of Neurosurgery, University of Minnesota

A number of months back someone posted plans for platform to set you live 
rock on based on egg grate and small PVC piping.  

How well to these setups work and does anyone have a copy of the plans they 
could send me.

Thanks.



    *********************************************************************
    *  Thomas D. Gasser                                                 *
    *  Department of Neurosurgery                *******     ******     *
    *  University of Minnesota                    ***  *** *** ***      *
    *  (612) 624-4427                             ***   *****  ***      *
    *  E-Mail:  THOMASG@STAFF.TC.UMN.EDU         *****        *****     *
    *                                                                   *
    *********************************************************************
From: Neil.Frank@launchpad.unc.edu (Neil Frank)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Tough hair algae question
Date: 17 Dec 92 16:14:14 GMT
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service

I tried all of the mentioned remedies, including "algae distroyer" (i.e.
a chemical called simazine), plus several others without success until
the head of the Botany department at NC State university suggested
copper (0.5 ppm).  Remove the fish first, then remove copper 2 weeks
later - complete water change will do it nicely.  The gory details were
recently published in several articles in "The Aquatic Gardener,"
publication of the Aquatic Gardeners Association (back issue still
available).
The copper does affect some plants like Val and myriophyllum, but does
not affect crypts, swords and many, many others.
Simazine can also affect plants, including val, as well as fish.  I hope
George takes careful notes, so he can report back on any deleterious
effects on his plants and fish!  And, of course on any successes.
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Keywords: snails fresh help
Reply-To: jessop@ljohub.enet.dec.com (Class Dinosauria)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:57:12 GMT



	Puffers are aggressive fish...  they are also brackish water
	fish, I believe.  And gouramis are usually found in more
	soft, acidic waters.  You may find either the gouramis or the
	puffers easily succeptible to disease  (depending on your water's
	pH and hardness...)  Just something to look out for...  

	Truthfully tho', many fish are very adaptable to a wide variety
	of water pH and hardness... as long is the water is kept clean and
	constant, and the fish are fed well your fish may live forever...
	(figuratively speaking...)

	Mike
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Monos ?
Date: 13 Dec 92 05:14:40 GMT
Reply-To: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1992Dec10.124134.3783@afit.af.mil> jcardow@afit.af.mil (James E. Cardow) writes:
>For a few months I've been working towards having a brackish tank.
>Having had tremendous difficulties due to poor local water quality I've taken
>it very slow.  My goal was to eventually fill the tank with Monos,
>Scats, possibly puffers and expand.  After one bad start (had to take the tank
>back to fresh and restart) I've gotten it to the point where I'm ready
>to move from the chromides etc to the monos.
>
>So, I went out and found some monos, planning on buying several.  The
>"local fish guy" told me that that wasn't a good idea.  He claims that
>monos should either be alone or in odd numbered groupings?  I bought
>one to think over this comment that I had never heard and then started
>seeing posts that indicate other people keep just one?
>
>Any recommendations on keeping monos, does the odd number theory make
>sense?  How about scats and puffers?  I know puffers tend to be
>agressive, are they too agressive for the monos?  Suggestions?
>
>The tank is a 45 gal with heavy aeration (part of the water quality
>problem).
>
> Jim

I have four monos in a 29g at work with a couple of mollies. They are all
doing fine. I originally brought home and quarantined a pair of spotted scats,
but returned them when they completely stripped of all vegetation the heavily
planted quarantine tank in only two weeks. Apparently these suckers are such
dedicated plant eaters, they will even munch on java fern. BTW my brackish tank
contains both java fern and java moss which are doing ok. I have heard puffers
are agressive, but I think some species are more so than others. The monos are
quite shy, but seem to settle down after a week or two. Oops, I forgot to
mention the tank has two mystus cats which do a good job of scavenging ( no I
haven't been able to figure out their scientific name yet). BTW how do you like
your chromides (orange or green?)?
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Robert J. Raible		EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
VLSI Program Manager		 or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
From: infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Brine Shrimp Orders
Date: 11 Dec 92 19:11:14 GMT
Organization: Duke University; Durham, N.C.

In article <1992Dec10.020452.3161@unislc.uucp> livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston) writes:
>
>Ok, I've sent mail to those who responded about ordering some brine
>shrimp eggs.  If you didn't get my mail and where interested, let
>me know soon.  Anyone else interested in getting some artemia
>eggs at about $9/lb or a little less, mail me.
>
>-Ross
>-- 
>Ross Livingston, Unisys Corp.  |  Phone   (801) 594-6217
>livings%unislc.uunet.uu.net    |  Fax     801-594-4861 / 801-594-6708
>livings@cs.utah.edu            |

Ross, yes I've tried mailing you several times, but it never gets
there.

If you did get my mail, I didn't get yours.

Anyway, I'm interested in artemia eggs, so contact me when you can.

thanks.


andy
.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bbs.mirage@tsoft.net (Jerry Lee)
Subject: Re: Pleco food
Organization: The TSoft BBS and Public Access Unix, +1 415 969 8238
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 04:42:59 GMT

Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey) writes:

> I have heard (from here) that people feed their pleco's frozen spinach. When
> I tried this, it hust floats. I believe mt pleco did eat some, however. I
> saw him nibbling on it. The other fish tried it too. I am looking for other
> methods of feeding him, or her. I have heard that cucumber and zuchinni can
> be fed to pleco's. Any other help would be appreciated.
> 


I feed my pleco flake food.. just like all my other fish.  Whatever is 
left on the bottom gets eaten by the pleco, a pair of cats, a large claw 
crab and a khuli loach.  After it's all gone, it just starts eating the 
scum off the glass.  Ocasionally, I put some crab meat (cooked of course) 
in the tank and it seems to like that VERY much.  The yellow stuff that's 
considered a delicasy by some people, in the crab is also appreciated by 
the pleco and all of my other fish but is it very fattening?  I dunno but 
they seem to like crab alot.

Computer and Video Imaging (Animation included) major at
Cogswell Polytechnical College.
EMAIL: jele@eis.calstate.edu
Internet: bbs.mirage@tsoft.sf-bay.org
UUCP    : ...apple!tsoft!bbs.mirage
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
Subject: Re: Pleco food
Summary: Pleco food
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 92 16:15:43 GMT

In article <65@jptcs.COM>, Steve.Kilbey%bbs@jptcs.com (Steve Kilbey) writes:
> I have heard (from here) that people feed their pleco's frozen spinach. When
> I tried this, it hust floats. I believe mt pleco did eat some, however. I
> saw him nibbling on it. The other fish tried it too. I am looking for other
> methods of feeding him, or her. I have heard that cucumber and zuchinni can
> be fed to pleco's. Any other help would be appreciated.
> 

I have tried frozen spinach also.  First time I used it my pleco went nuts.
After that he really didnt seem to care for it.  Something I have been feeding
my plecos lately is HIKARI ALGAE WAFERS (not really algae).  My plecos love
this stuff and will feed on this out of my hand (before I let them sink to the
bottom).  The small wafers are made from mostly vegetable materials and are
supplemented with vitimins D, E, B1, B2, C, and A.  The wafers dont seem to
dissolve as readily as Tetras Tabi Min tablets.  
-- 
Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
School of Electrical Engineering  fundamentals while I'm asking a fundamental
Purdue University                 question....then fine, I'll pretend to be one"
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Microbiology text question
Date: 19 Dec 92 22:37:46 GMT
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

I was wondering if someone can recommend a good scientific text
on algae and microbes. I just received a Christmas present of
a truly fine microscope and want to identify all the micro-flora and
micro-fauna in the auqarium.  An `Atlas of the Small' would be perfect.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: A few Cichlid ?'s
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 14:29:07 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.170327.12932@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>> 3. What type of rock is best for building structures? (caves) and is
>> there a cheaper place than a pet store to get it?

I'm no cichlidiot, but I had an african tank for about a year.  I filled
it with gravel and boulders from a local rock quarry/builders supply 
store.  Look in the yellow pages under "rock."


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tnnguyen@tera.cs.umn.edu (Trung N. Nguyen)
Subject: Re: ballasts (was Re: newsgroups)
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 02:53:43 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.225938.12659@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:
>In article <2800259@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM> booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes:
>>In rec.aquaria, jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley) writes:
>>
>>    Brand names, guys, I want brand names!   Good and bad ones, please.
>>    Where have you found a $10 electronic ballast?  Cheapest ones around
>>    here seem to be $20 and up.
>>
>>The cheap fixtures I had were made by/distributed by "Lights of America"
>>and sold through Ace Hardware.  The fixture with 2 bulbs was $15.99.
>>
>>Definitely a "bad one". 
>
>I paid $11.99 for the same fixture (got it on sale!) and mine is running
>strong 2 years later...
>

I got my 48" 2-bulb fixture at Menard for $6.95.  It is still on sale
right now.  It works fine for me, although I am not an expert at light
fixture.  It probably has a very cheapo electronic ballast.

			Trung
>-- 
>--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
>Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
>3rd year medical student		        
>The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
------------------------------------------------------------------
! Email:                              Phone:                     !
!   tnnguyen@cs.umn.edu                 (612) 623-3913  (Home)   !
!   tnnguyen@cdr.lter.umn.edu           (612) 625-7930  (Work)   !
!                                       (612) 624-7807  (Office) !
------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: bmoss@ejv.com (Brian Moss)
Subject: How much to feed?
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 15:18:16 EST
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Hello friends on the Net,

I was wondering exactly how much I should be feeding my fish?  I have a 20Gal High tank with 2 Blue Dannios, 6 Neons and a Pleco.  I feed them a small pinch in the morning and the same amount in the late evening.  However, they always seem to want to eat. Should I feed them more as long as the food doesn't settle to the bottom?  I want my fish to be happy and well fed.

Thanks for responses,

Brian at "bmoss@ejv.com"
From: drchambe@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Dennis Chamberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Cleaning UGF (was: UGF/RUGF and nitrates)
Date: 14 Dec 92 18:26:59 GMT
Reply-To: drchambe@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Dennis Chamberlin)
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

>wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:
>
>> Well, all the talk about UGF/RUGF got me thinking about what was under my UGF
>> plate.  I have had the bubble powered UGF going for a little over a year now
>> in my 20 gal freshwater tank.  My nitrates were exceeding 140 ppm easilly, 
>> probably way beyond that since water changes didnt seem to do anything.
>> I finally dug out the credit card and bought 2 penguin 660s with the reverse
>> flow attachments.  I decided that I would break down the tank, clean under th
>> UGF before I dared to fire up the reverse flow.  I am sure a 40 gallon tank
>> 
>> Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
>
>

Here is an untried suggestion: (I haven't yet found the right piece of tubing.)
I note that 1/2 " tubing is a snug fit into the discharge of my 800 gph 
powerhead. My UGF has two ports that are capped and unused. What I would 
like to do is to insert a piece of 1/2" into the powerhead discharge and 
somehow adapt this tube to something larger than airline, but smaller than 
1/2 inch and more flexible (surgical rubber?). I will then uncap one of my 
UGF ports and run the tube into the UGF void space. 

I should then be able to snake and twist the tubing to blind probe much of 
the UGF space. The theory (hope?) is that the vigorous flow from the 
powerhead will drive material into suspension that a siphon might not 
dislodge. This would then be carried up the lift tubes and temporarily mess 
up the water, but would then be reachable by vacuum, auxiliary filter, 
magnum or combinations.

I'm not sure I need to do this. My tank (55 SW) is underpopulated, I 
vacuum the crushed coral, and don't get a great deal of debris. My nitrates 
are pretty low (around 5 ppm). But I've heard so much about the limited life
of UGF's I'm curious what's under there.

Comments?
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: connolly@iastate.edu (Patrick H Connolly)
Subject: Hair algae removal?  It just keeps coming back...
Summary: How do you get rid of it?
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:43:44 GMT

I've beenn reading the recentt postings about problems with hair
algae forming.  I've got a 20 gal withh growth on plants (Amazon 
sword) and fixtures in the tank.  I've got 3 Tilapia and
some gouramis.  What can >I safely be used to get get rid of it?

Insert discussion here...
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9525 alt.aquaria:6228
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] How to get rid of snails?
Date: 16 Dec 92 17:31:26 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

jdhl@troi.cc.rochester.edu (papa_sm00sh) writes:
> 
> 
> but wouldn't the small snails grow up to be big snails? (and thus lay
> more eggs...)  for how long would this leaf-process need to be carried
> out?  

The small snails do grow but it is easy to remove them prior to sexual 
reproduction.  

I do not recall the time span but it did not seem troublesome esp
compared to tearing down the tank.

> not all snails in a large aquarium (and to a real small snail, a
> 10 gallon aquarium would be large... try putting them into a
> 30gallon!) will find the leaf... and by the time they do... they may
> have laid more eggs...

As I said snails are good at finding food and you do not need to catch
all the snails in one go.  

> -process to remove most of the
> hearty, good sized snails... and get a khuli-loach which should be
> sifting through the gravel for the babies...
> 
> jason

The loach combo whould be less work but you can do it with just the
bait.  Snails are very good at finding the bait.   


-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: mar@athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein)
Subject: Re: Experience with anemomes ??
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:17:21 GMT

In article <Byy9sy.A5t@ecmwf.co.uk>, sya@ecmwf.co.uk (Adam Bracewell) writes:
|> I am thinking of getting a small anemone for my 55gal tank (has two tomato
|> clowns and a yellow tang in it already).
|> I understand the clowns will readily accept ritteri or condylactus, but what
|> about malus ??  Can I expect it to grow ??

Yes, clowns generally like ritteri anemones, but not condylactus.  These are
Atlantic (actually Carribean) species, and as a general rule clowns will only
bond with Pacific anemones.  Malu anemones (generally sold around here as
"Long tentacle pacific anemones") are fine.

Under the proper conditions, an anemone can grow quite a bit.  They need a lot
of light.  I won't get into the full lighting arguments here, but they need
either a lot of florescents (actinic and/or wide spectrum) or metal halides.
They also need good water quality to florish, with the nitrates under 15ppm.
Finally, they do need to be fed occasionally.  I feed my anemones a chunk of
squid or shrimp, or even a live guppy every couple of weeks.

If you don't want the anemone to grow, don't feed it much solid food, but keep
the rest of the conditions good or it will die.  An anemone that slowly shrinks
will eventually die.
						-Mark

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Are W/D trickle filters worth it?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 14:26:58 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.165524.12929@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>>   Surprisingly enough a wet dry filter cand be made for way less money
>> than a mechanical filter.  there have been many posts on how to do this
>> in the past.  A little hunting around in a hardware store and a 10 - 15 gal
>> fish tank will built a WD as good as anything that can be bought.  The
>> mechanical filtration gets done by a pre-filter.  But I also use a 
>> magnum 350 to get the water crystal clear.  If you are going marine a 
>> WD is the way to go, basically because once it is established it there is very
>> low maintenance and any changes such as swapping filter cartiges on a 
>> mechanical filter will not afffect water chemistry.
>
>It seems to me that the drip plate should be designed with some sort of
>specific plan for even distribution, and to resist clogging.  I've never seen
>anyone tell any good (or bad.  I've just never heard a...) way of designing a
>drip-plate.  Also, what about a rotating spray-bar?  Sounds pretty good in
>theory...does it work?  And if anyone has them, I'd surely appreciate haveing
>some DIY plans for a W/D E-mails to me.  :)   I'm so cheap!  

So long as your drip plate has a rim around it (a drawer type) that will
allow water to accumulate on top till it flows through all the holes, 
distribution is pretty even.  Mine has been running for about 1.5 years
and has never clogged.  I have that blue filter floss stuff on top of
it, but I rarely change it.
 
Rotating spray bars: remember one of the laws of mechanics: if it moves, 
it will break.  Drip plates do a great job, don't complicate things.

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: sherman@michael.nmr.upmc.edu (Sherman Uitzetter)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (M)(F) Info about R/O filters?
Date: 16 Dec 92 16:46:04 GMT
Organization: Pittsburgh NMRI
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
X-XXDate: Wed, 16 Dec 92 11:46:35 GMT



	I want to get a reverse osmosis filter can someone who
has gone through all the research send me (or post) some info
on prices/quality of some of these filters?  Also, I would
like to know how they work.  I know what osmosis is - the
seperation of water into hydrogen and oxygen; is reverse
osmosis the combining of hydrogen and oxygen into water?
Seems like the ideal way to create perfectly clean water.


Any replies will be appreciated,
-Sherman.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria