HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: god please don't flame me...
Date: 3 Sep 92 21:04:58 GMT
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

Al Hooten says:Folks, look what the flaming of the last 6 months has done...
some of the
new people are really afraid of posting reasonable questions!  I don't
post too often to this group, but this really made an impact on me.  PLEASE
let's try to keep the signal/noise ration in r.c.b reasonable, and do all
flaming in *private*!  Thanks.


I agree completely.  It's incredible how worked up people get around here.  If
you say something that someone doesn't agree with, you get this huge diatribe
about "good" beer making.  Yeesh, lighten up, people.  All this sort of stuff
is going to do is drive people away from rcb and brewing altogether.

For the record, I most of you people saw how I make beer, you'd probably have
strokes or collective apoplexy.  But, I like what I produce...so there.  What
ever happened to "Relax.  Don't worry...?"

Mike Wilson
Send flames to brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us
I make beer *I* like.  If you think it's too vegetal, don't drink the stuff.
(oops, I should have put quotes around that)
From: wayne@r-node.gts.org (Wayne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: sterilization with a microwave?????
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1992 17:00:14 GMT
Organization: Public Access UNIX Information System

In article <binkley.715448572@beagle> binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley) writes:
>I wrote:
>
>>I'll take 3 250 mL flasks, one autoclaved, two non-sterile.  I'll
>>rinse the two non-sterile flasks with tap water, then microwave
>>one of them for 30 seconds, as prescribed above.  I will add 25 mL
>>of sterile bacterial growth media to each flask, cover, and set
>>aside at room temperature for a few days.  I'll report any
>>growth in the flasks The autoclaved flask should have no growth,
>>and thus will be a control for my rusty sterile technique.
>>The rinsed, non-microwaved flask should be a microbial zoo.
>>We shall see where the microwaved flask falls.  Does this sound
>>fair?
>
>Well, the results are confusing.  There's growth in the microwaved
>flask, but NOT the other two.  Since the control that was
>supposed to have growth in it didn't, any conclusions drawn
>would be suspect (except the conclusion that I'm a sloppy scientist!).
>

Did you cap the flasks? Maybe the chlorine in the water suppressed
growth in the non microwaved flask while microwaving the other one
removed any residual chlorine and allowed growth.
-- 
Wayne Dawe
wayne@r-node.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kivaman@milton.u.washington.edu (Mark Hammergren)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: WHINE: Sulfur aroma-what is?!
Date: 25 Aug 92 17:40:57 GMT
Organization: University of Washington


  I recently made a batch of pear wine and had an identical experience:
a ferment that was very slow in taking off (I used a Champagne yeast),
and that horrendous sulfur/rotten egg smell.  It's been in a secondary
for about five months now, and seems to have lost most of the odor, 
and it tastes fine, though a bit dry.
  I'd given it a pretty heavy Campden treatment initially, too.  Also,
when the ferment DID take off, the yeast formed a nasty looking cake
on top.  It looked like a mass of yellowish, carbonated cottage cheese.
Is this yeast behavior typical of Champagne yeast?
  I'm still stumped about the smell, too.  If anyone has any ideas, I'd 
appreciate hearing them. (I guess that after all the work I put into
my wine, I just want to be reassured that it isn't merely the product of
some wild, mutant strain of rogue microorganism!)

Thanks!

Mark "No .Sig" Hammergren
kivaman@milton.u.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jessie@IASTATE.EDU (Brent Danielson)
Subject: Starting yeast
Reply-To: jessie@IASTATE.EDU (Brent Danielson)
Organization: Iowa State University
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 17:27:49 GMT

I'm planning on putting together an ale recipe this week and I would like  to
start the yeast so that is is active and ready to take off at pitching.  I've
only brewed a few batches, so I'm no pro, and I need advice on how to start the
yeast (I've pitched directly into the wort in the past).

What I have in mind is to boil an undecided quantity of dry malt extract in
about a 1.5 liters of water, cool it to 70 degrees or so, put it in a 2 liter
flask with a fermentation lock and wait 24 hr at room temperature before putting
together the recipe for the ale (a mix of extract and specialty grains).

The yeast is a liquid culture Wyeast 1056.  It's pricy and I want to be sure I
know what I'm doing so I don't kill or maim the stuff.  

Specifically, 
              How much dry malt to add to the liquid?
              Is 1.5 liters too much or too little?
              Is a 2 liter long-neck fask too small for this volume of liquid?
              Is 24 hr long enough to allow the yeast to become active?
              How important are yeast nutrients, and should these be boiled
too?

I'm running low on homebrew so I've gotta hurry or I'll run dry.  Your
collective help will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks, 
Brent Danielson
Animal Ecology, 
Iowa State University
From: rick.guthier@cccbbs.UUCP (Rick Guthier) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Testing CCC internet
Date: 28 Aug 92 00:22:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: rick.guthier@cccbbs.UUCP (Rick Guthier) 

Hello.  This is a message from CCC to Internet.

--- WinQwk 2.0 a#0
                                                            
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: psrc@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (Paul S. R. Chisholm)
Subject: Re: Bud's claims to be "naturally carbonated"
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 00:26:49 GMT
Summary: kraeusened???

homebrew@lupulus.ssc.gov writes:
> I saw an ad on TV the other day for Budweiser.  In the ad it claimed
> that bud was "naturally carbonated".

Y'know, I *swear* I read (some place unreliable, like a Bud label) that
Spudwiser is kraeusened.  I *know* it doesn't make sense; there'd be
lil' yeasties in their darn-near-water, and it wouldn't be crystal
clear.

In article <1992Aug25.165408.19445@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk> dam@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (David Morning) writes:
>Sure, it's carbonated with a natural gas - CO2 as opposed to a man-made
>gas like..er...like...er... CS tear gas.

Are you sure?  (I think CS is tasteless.-)

Paul S. R. Chisholm, AT&T Bell Laboratories/EasyLink Services,
att!pegasus!psrc, psrc@pegasus.att.com, AT&T Mail !psrchisholm
I'm not speaking for the company, I'm just speaking my mind.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kswanson@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Swanson)
Subject: Re: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) 
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 07:18:23 GMT

In <1992Aug25.133845.27910@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>In article <1992Aug21.221534.22778@bnr.ca> harlan@crchh347.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Bruce Harlan) writes:
>>However- shouldn't you include
>>"how much does it cost?"
>>"is it illegal"?"
>>"does it taste like swill?"
>>"does Corona have lime or piss in it?"
>>"Who's Jack?"
>>"What's a MALTMILL?"

>Here! Here!  Actually, I tried that already.  I sent him my video and
>suggested a video section be added but he politely returned it and
>ignored my request :)

Well, first of all, I think that the last few entries in the list above
were considered humourous by the original author...  Actually, Jack, the
video was politely returned and the request was politely refused.  (And
I hate being talked about in the third person, when I am quite obviously
sitting in the same room talking to all of you...).  I told you, Jack,
that I did not want commercialism in my FAQ, which is what a review of
one product would be.  On the other hand, if someone were to send me a
comprehensive set of such videos, in PAL format, I would be happy to do
such...
-- 
Kurt Swanson, Dept. of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science,
Northwestern University.  kswanson@nwu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: Hops in the primary
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date:  4 Sep 92 03:54:01 GMT

cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu writes:

>I have to agree with the philosophy that there is no harm in leaving the 
>hops in the primary, at least regarding fermentation activity and taste.The
>first time I used whole hops and specialty grains, I left
>both the hops and the grains in the primary.

This is probably okay, but I would STRONGLY recommend against doing
it if you use the blow-off method.  If you do, you'll be the next
poster in the "brewing disaster" series, and possibly be the first
person to make a Zymrugy obituary column!

Jon Binkley
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Jalepeno Beer Recipe Wanted............
Date: 28 Aug 92 17:18:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: col.1992Aug28.171837.28596
Organization: Don't ask me, I'm Lost!

edbu@pogo.wv.tek.com (Ed Burress) writes:
> I'm looking for a recipe for a jalepeno beer.  There is a place in 
> Fort Collins, Co. that makes this stuff, but you can't find it in 
> Oregon.  A friend of mine has a craving for it, and I thought I 

The place is called "CooperSmith's".  The beer is "Sigda's Green Chile Beer".
They don't use Jalapeno's - they use Anaheim's for chile flavor and Serrano's
for the heat.  Try using about a pound of chopped Anaheim chiles (canned
will do) in the last 15 minutes of the boil.  If you are bottling it, you
can put a whole Serrano chile in each bottle, or try putting some in
your secondary fermenter if you are kegging.

Rick
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: what does 1.028 mean?
Date: 28 Aug 92 11:05:36 -0300
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

In article <1992Aug26.141549.26067@mksol.dseg.ti.com>, carruth@mksol.dseg.ti.com (matthew carruth) writes:
> I bottled a batch last night.  The final specific gravity was 1.028.  Does that 
> mean anything.  I used one "can" of extract, 3 lbs of powdered malt extract,
> 1oz of finishing hops, an one package of dry yeast.  I added enough distilled
> water to make 5 gal.  It has fermented for 5 days.  
> 
> Keywords: 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> My views are my own and do not reflect those of my employeers....


	What 1028 means is that you will likely have lots of broken glass and 
puddles of beer very soon.
	Ed





Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 17:44:06 GMT
X-Disclaimer:  Material posted in this article is the sole responsibility of
                the poster and does not represent MCSNet or the system owners.

In article <714718680snx@essence.demon.co.uk> prh@essence.demon.co.uk (Peter Humphrey) writes:
>
>In article <1992Aug23.034153.9218@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:
>
>> I have not been to England or Germany in years but I can only presume that
>> the slosh they send over here can not be what I drank over there.
> 
>Unfortunately, the beer we drink over here would not keep long enough to 
>reach you in potable condition.  In other words, we like to drink it 
>ourselves  ;-)
 
When you get smart like Coors, you will learn how to make "beer concentrate"
and ship it over here so you only have to "add water"  to make terrific
slosh.

js
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov (Jay Marshall)
Subject: using fruit juices in ale
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 16:27:27 GMT

I would like to make a cherry ale and thought that I had heard someone
say that you could get pasteurized cherries at the local Whole Foods.
When I went to check it out, all I could find was 100% cherry juice.
I was going to use about 5 lbs of cherries for a 5 gallon batch.  If I
were to use this cherry juice instead, how much would be approximately
equivalent?  Has anyone out there used the juice before?  Also, are there
any clarifying agents needed when you use fruits (or juice) in beer?  I was
going to add this to the secondary for a week or so...

thanks

Jay

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Marshall                       
marshall@sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov    
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(standard disclaimer)

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: monitor@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Monitor/Benoit Dawant)
Subject: Re: Removing Chlorine [Re: sterilization with...]
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 13:53:33 GMT

In article <01050166.ceg3fi@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>
>In article <67242@hydra.gatech.EDU> (rec.crafts.brewing), hhaas@RAIL9000.gatech.edu (Harry P. Haas) writes:
>) On water . . . What is the concensus on methods for removing chlorine?
>) I also have a salt-water tank, and every time I use Stress Coat (de-
>) chlorinizer with aloa) I ponder adding a bit to my brew water.  I live
>) in a rather large city with heavily chlorinated water, and sometimes
>) have batches that struggle to reach complete fermintation.
>
>Everything I have ever heard on this subject suggests only one method
>for removing chlorine from tapwater:
>
>	Boil it.
>
The activated charcoal filters seem to do a pretty decent job of removing
chlorine.  They leave good things like minerals and oxygen alone.  Since
installing mine (for about $30 including the faucet that mounts on the
sink), I don't have to boil and cool anymore.  So far, I haven't had
any trouble with infections resulting from not boiling.  Your mileage
may vary :^).
From: ech@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: WOW! first mash.
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:40:59 GMT
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada


Brothers and sisters, I have seen the light!  It is Grain Brewing!  I made
my first mash/extract batch the other day, loosely base on millers southern
brown ale recipe.  Just out of curiosity, I checked the SG 36 hours or so
after pitching, just to make sure it was fermenting OK.  I tasted the brew,
and, WOW.  I mean, not just WOW, but close your eyes and let your knees
turn to Jell-O like a first kiss sort of WOW.  And this with the lowest
of tech.  I crushed the grain in a paper bag using a mason's hammer, used
the steamer from my large stewpot as a lauter-tun, and cooled the wort in
a bathtub full of ice-water (cooled from 100 C to 25 C in about 25 min.  Not
bad, and good cold break!).  I can hardly wait to get a big brewpot, a larger
lauter-tun, and a grain mill for ALL GRAIN!!
	Ed
From: nicholas@brazil.psych.purdue.edu (Jeffrey Nicholas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: ree: flat beer
Date: 27 Aug 92 20:44:30 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Purdue University

Charlie Papazian suggests in his wonderful book the new joy of homebrewing
the following for flat beer:
You may be storing your bottles at an excessively cool temperature, slowing the yeast.  I doubt this is the case here in the summer months though.  If it is
the case, move them to a warmer place and see what happens.
If that doesn't work, you can uncap the bottles and drop a few grains of dried
beer yest and recap.  If that doesn't work you can open them again and drop in	1/4 tsp of sugar.  if that doesn't work you can use it to wash your hair or
make popsicles.  Or as charlie suggests, blend it with non-flat beer.  One final note, and i don't mean to insult you so don't take it that way, but an ale	type beer such as a stout is not going to be as carbonated as a lager.  So if
your stout seems flat compared to budweiser, it's supposed to be that way:  
light carbonation rather than heavy.  However if it is truly flat then you've
got a problem.
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Removing Chlorine [Re: sterilization with...]
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 22:22:46 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1992Sep2.185925.13296@unixg.ubc.ca> (rec.crafts.brewing), arnett@unixg.ubc.ca (Bill Arnett) writes:
) In article <01050166.ceg3fi@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
) >
) >In article <67242@hydra.gatech.EDU> (rec.crafts.brewing), hhaas@RAIL9000.gatech.edu (Harry P. Haas) writes:
) >) On water . . . What is the concensus on methods for removing chlorine?
) >
) >Everything I have ever heard on this subject suggests only one method
) >for removing chlorine from tapwater:
) >	Boil it.
) 
) There are several brands of ceramic water filters on the market (Shaklee
) and NSA, for example) which claim to remove 100% of all chlorine, metals,
) minerals, bacteria, and particulates from the water. arnett@unixg.ubc.ca

I've been running a fever for the past few days.  This is my pitiful
excuse for missing the obvious alternative method, which is charcoal 
filtering.

Ceramic filters won't remove ions in solution, of course.  Ceramic
filters can be made to filter out germs and particulates, and are
usually impregnated with silver (a bactericide) to keep them from
becoming infected themselves.  The filters you're talking about must
incorporate activated charcoal, and ion-exchange something or other
to get rid of the metal ions.

A Katadyn hand-operated filter is the niftiest $250 camping and foreign
travel gadget one can own, in my opinion.  Yes, you *can* drink the
water!  Look in your better outdoor supply shops.

The difference a charcoal filter makes in tapwater is sometimes dramatic.
I hate to say it, but here in Maple Shade the water isn't all that
bad, and I recently quit using my old charcoal filter.  The folks
nearby who drink Schuylkill Punch, though, probably *can* tell the
difference.

uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
v   v  sssss | Certified Guru: all-grain brewing,| 2102 Ryan's Run East
 v v  s   s  | C, synthesizer comp & arranging,  | Rt 38 & 41
  v    sss   | photography. Also not a bad cook. | Maple Shade NJ 08052
-----My employer isn't paying for this, and my opinions are my own-----
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@angelico.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: seven gallon carboys
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 15:29:21 GMT

In article <13609.2aa4a2d6@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu> cpalmer@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu writes:
>Does anyone know where you can get seven gallon carboys?
>Prices?
>thanks in advance...

St Patrick's homebrew store in Austin sells em for $10.  They come with
a free lauter tun cooler to protect them from UPS handlers.  2 arrived
safe and sound up here in Northern Indiana.  Shipping will depend on your
UPS region relative to Texas, but I'd imagine it'd be 4, same as me, and
that'll be about $5.  These carboys are used and may have salt dried
in the bottom.  I disolved it off with acid.  Vinegar will do it too,
I guess.  Contact Lynne at oconnor@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu if she hasn't
contacted you already.

Disclaimer.  No connection other than being a satisfied customer.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: guido@island.COM (Guido Marx)
Subject: Re: Bottle caps
Organization: Island Graphics Corp.  San Rafael, Ca.
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 16:25:38 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.155451.21463@sarah.albany.edu> jim@thor.albany.edu (SCHLEMMER JAMES A) writes:
>I'm not sure I understand this one.  Perhaps you have an adjustable model.  
>Mine is of the non-adjustable variety and there are many bottles that I 
>cannot cap using it.  Bottles with lip & shoulder dimensions similar to that
>of, say, a Hieneken bottle (shoulder is too high) don't work nor do champagne 
>bottles of any sort (necks are too wide).  Still, I'm pretty happy with it and
>I can line up my filled bottles, place caps on 'em, and just go down the 
>line with the capper.  With a bench model, you'd have to place each bottle under 
>the capper.  Maybe it's not that much of a pain but it seems like it would be 
>slower.

I would advise any new brewer to go ahead and spring for a bench capper.
My capper cost $32 and it will cap anything including champagne bottles
and any kind of beer bottle I've run across (I still won't use the
screw-tops because I worry about little shards of glass breaking off
those threads).  I just stick the bottle on it and CHUUNK, its
capped.  I can't imagine using anything else (except doing away with
bottling entirely and going to a keg system, but that'll have to
wait till I get a bigger house).

Guido


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: psrc@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (Paul S. R. Chisholm)
Subject: Re: What are water crystals ?
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 00:34:28 GMT

In article <1992Aug26.145540.3442@srg.srg.af.mil> akerson@deimos.srg.af.mil
 (Pete Akerson - akerson%srg@uunet.uucp) writes:
>My box/kit came with these, white powder, tasteless, odorless.
>What are these, what do they do ?

They're instant water.  Just add water. . . .-)

But seriously, folks.  One of the factors that makes a Great Beer is
the characteristics of the water.  That does *not* mean pure; distilled
water isn't very good for mashing at all.  Certain minerals in the
water can help the mashing process significantly.  Dave Miller's
COMPLETE HANDBOOK OF HOME BREWING will tell you more on the subject
than you'll be able to do with in four years (that's about how long
it'll take you to get a degree in chemistry).

If you bought an extract kit, the minerals worked all their magic when
the malt was mashed to produce the extract.  I don't *think* you'll get
that much of an impact.  (Any gurus on extract brewing, please correct
me if I'm wrong.)

>Usually Reply-to: akerson%srg@uunet.uucp
>Internet: akerson@srg.af.mil@uunet.uucp
>Uunet: uunet!srg!akerson
>Milnet: akerson@srg.srg.af.mil     maybe ...

Paul S. R. Chisholm, AT&T Bell Laboratories/EasyLink Services,
att!pegasus!psrc, psrc@pegasus.att.com, AT&T Mail !psrchisholm
I'm not speaking for the company, I'm just speaking my mind.
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Cocktail method of wort cooling
Date: 31 Aug 92 13:12:20 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Howdy.

I just thought I would post my method of wort chilling.  It is really
quite simple.  I have two plastic buckets, one is 6.5 gal (my primary) and
one is a bit bigger (I usually use this for priming, I don't trust the
lid on it for fermenting).  When I am thru with boiling, I put some ice
in my kitchen sink.  I place my pot on the ice, then add ice around the sides
of the pot (leave the lid on).  While this is cooling, I put the primary
into the other bucket and fill the outer bucket with ice (I do this in the
tub, it can be messy.)  When the ice in the sink is pretty well melted, I 
pour the wort into the fermenter and put on the lid.  The heat melts some ice,
and then I can fit in more.  When the ice is used up, I go back to the 
kitchen and clean up the mess and have another homebrew.  The fermenter
sits and cools rapidly.  I call it my homebrew cocktail.  The initial 
cooling in the sink allows the hot break and some of the cold break to 
settle and it stays in the pot when I pour the homebrew cocktail.  When
most of the equipment is clean, the ice has melted and the wort is cool.
Then I pitch and relax.  I rack in a couple of days to get away from
any remaining break material and other nasties.  It seems to work quite
well, and I don't have to put ice IN the wort.


-toot