From: biggersc@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:42:31 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <4320159@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
> clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>>>>gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>>Steve Bellovin writes:  
>>>>In article <4320147@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>>>>   The magnetic switch is not the solution for your problem, Steve.
>>
>>>>>   You problem is the location of the switch, not the way it functions.
>>
>>>>I understand how it works.  My previous posting was a bit too brief; let
>>>>me explain a bit more.
>>
>>>   Again, I feel the need to point out that a magnetic switch is not 
>>>   necessary for this.
>>
>>Steven also wants the advantage of the saw staying off if there's a power
>>failure, then a restore.  It's independent of the switch location/size
>>issue.  However, since you can't do his "big button" trick with the toggle
>>switch on this unit, he can kill two birds with one stone - build
>>the magnetic switch with two push-buttons, one to start the unit, the
>>other to stop it.  Furthermore, the magnetic switch arrangement allows
>>you to use normal momentary contact pushbuttons - mechanical latching
>>pushbuttons are failure-prone (or rather expensive) in this sort of
>>application.
> 
>    Agreed.  If I sounded a bit nit-picky, it's because I think it is
>    important that others not be misled;  the difference in cost between
>    a magnetic switch and a start-stop button that solves the "easy shut-off"
>    probem could buy a very nice saw blade.
> 
>    While Steve Bellovin may know the difference, there is a significant 
>    amount of ignorance in the woodworking world regarding these switches.
> 
>    For instance, I tried the "big piece of scrap, start-stop button" on
>    my Delta Contractor's saw, by using a different switch (I actually
>    traded switches with my Jet Jointer).   I found the arrangement not
>    to my likeing at all.
> 
>    This weekend I bought some 12/3 extension cord wire, and ran the connection
>    from my saw motor over to the wall, up it, and across the ceiling.  Now,
>    my switch hangs from the ceiling on a cable and can move around with
>    the saw.  It is totally out of the way, and no matter what happens, I
>    can easily reach it.   This completely solved the problem for me, without
>    spending $80 for a magnetic switch.


The extension cord wire sounds inexpensive and may be the best answer,
but DELTA has come up with a solution, also!  I think it is new, at least
I had not seen it before in DELTA's catalog, etc.

DELTA has come up with a solution to the switch, a solution to their
safety guard, and several other solutions.  The brochure I saw shows
that they are now producing a safety guard which is attached to the right
side of the table (assuming that you are facing the saw).  This safety
guard is a tubular affair which extends up in the air and across the
table to reach and cover the blade.  It is advertised to be used with
the dado and other blades without having to be removed.  It has anti-kick
back devices which if they must be removed may be stored in the "arm" which
reaches across the table from right to center.  The "arm" has a place for
a lamp attachment and last but not least...the arm has the switch in 
it!  So, the switch ends up like the above "extension cord" apparatus....
except it appears to be much more stable.  

The price was not quoted, but it seems to be the answer to the safety
guard, switch, etc.  It was shown on several of DELTA's saws including
the Contractor's Saw, the Unisaw, and others.

They didn't say what one should do with the original safety guard which
comes with most brands of saws including DELTA, Powermatic, etc.  BUT,
I would like to suggest what they might do with it! <grin>


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