HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stedee@auto-trol.com (Steve Deemer)
Subject: Re: Clarifications with Apologies
Followup-To: rec.sport.paintball
Organization: Auto-trol Technology Corporation
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 14:52:28 GMT

In article <66407@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt9989a@prism.gatech.EDU (John Martin Chapman) writes:
>
-deleted-
>
>Anyway, it was those types of surrenders I was talking about.  When I 
>stated that I would fire upon someone regardless of their position, I 
>was thinking of people who I have surprised, and were not prepared to 
>return fire such as in an ambush situation.  I know all of you have 
>ambushed somebody at some time or another, and I'm sure you all, like 
>myself stopped firing when people were calling themselves out.
>
But, isn't the above the definition of when you ask for surrender?  If
I'm in a position to take someone out from close range who isn't in
a position to return fire, I ask for their surrender.  If I'm so close
there's no possible chance of them returning fire, I simply tell them
they're out.  If I don't get agreement, that's a green light to open 
fire.  But I rarely see someone refuse.  It is a game, after all, not 
a kill-or-be-killed situation, and it's pretty obvious when someone 
has the drop on you that you can't turn around and paint them faster 
than they can pull the trigger.

If I'm on the field and I hear a voice from behind saying "You're out!"
I don't argue.  I realize that I could just have easily been
informed about the situation by the whack! whack! of a couple of
paintballs in the back.  Telling me I'm out instead of showing me I'm
out is just game courtesy.  

-deleted-
>As to it being only a welt, I have had several people tell me otherwise.  
>Maybe it's just the warm weather  and humidity where I play that softens up     the balls, but I've never seen 
>anything more than dimesized bruises and scuff marks.
>
I have a couple of lumps of clotted blood just under the skin from
close range shots.  At my last physical, the doc said they're nothing
to worry about and that they should go away in four or five years.
I've seen bruises the size of a dollar bill, cuts, and I've had
my right thumbnail split in half.  I love to play, I just don't
like to go home at the end of the day spitting up blood.


_________________________________________________________________________
Steven Deemer           "They say a boy should tire of being a creep and
stedee@auto-trol.COM     should sit quietly and ask Respectability to
                         lead him away.  But when Respectability comes to
                         me I will fight it and I, Eddie Haskell, I will
                         tear the letters off its very sweater!"
From: S_CZEMPIN@iravcl.ira.uka.de (Nicolai Czempin)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
Subject: FAQ?
Date: 18 Aug 1992 16:42:52 GMT
Organization: University of Karlsruhe (FRG) - Informatik Rechnerabt.
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: irav1.ira.uka.de
X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.23

Hi guys,

my parents will hate me for it:

I don't just play wargames, I've even decided to start paintballing!

On Sunday, I will have my first game. In Germany it is all much less
commercialised than in Britain and the U.S. I will borrow a gun from one of the
people there, who have several.

To be well-prepared, I want you to tell me all I need to know about PB. So far,
the only thing I know is the principle. And I had about three shots (which
convinced me that I'd like this).

So, is there a list of Frequently Asked Questions (aka FAQ) for this subject?

Thanks,

Nicolai


--
Nicolai Czempin, University of Karlsruhe, Germany
"I am not left-handed either"
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
From: stedee@auto-trol.com (Steve Deemer)
Subject: Re: new topic- no pins?
Followup-To: rec.sport.paintball
Organization: Auto-trol Technology Corporation
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 20:30:27 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.163543.15582@samba.oit.unc.edu> Rich.Rubel@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Rich Rubel) writes:
>
>Ok.  A recent post mentioned what a player needs to learn to be a 'good'
>player.  About the only skill I haven't figured out is how to 'take cover
>without getting pinned down'.  
>It seems that every time I dive behind a tree or into a sticker bush (not
>smart, but I stay in the game :-) I kinda have to stay there until rescued
>by another teammate.  Realizing that when it's 7 on 1 and the 7 are coming
>from different directions, you're screwed (or hosed?  they use semi's...)
>no matter what, how can I get out from my cover without getting painted?  
>[RICHR]
>--
The skill to develop to avoid getting pinned down is to watch where
you move.  If you have to cover a piece of ground, don't just get up
and walk across.  Scan the terrain before you move, pick a path
that moves through several "checkpoints".  These checkpoints should
be places that offer some cover in case you take fire during the move.
Don't pick points that you can't get out of in a hurry.  Don't move
into a point without being aware of where you're open to fire and
where you're covered.  This sounds like a lot of work, but most of
it becomes reflex after awhile.  It's basically the military scout
movement drill that goes back. . . well, a real long time.

As for being squeezed by multiple players when you're on your own,
trying charging one of the enemy players one-on-one, firing as
fast as you can.  Everyone will shoot at you, especially if they
have semis, but if you're moving straight towards one of the
opposing players, at least some of the paint coming towards you
will be heading in that player's direction as well (assuming that
in order to run AT one player you're running AWAY from others).

In all honesty, the above method is probably going to get you 
shot, but hey, it's more fun than cowering behind a bush waiting
for them to come get you.  I have seen it work at least once.


_________________________________________________________________________
Steven Deemer           "They say a boy should tire of being a creep and
stedee@auto-trol.COM     should sit quietly and ask Respectability to
                         lead him away.  But when Respectability comes to
                         me I will fight it and I, Eddie Haskell, I will
                         tear the letters off its very sweater!"
From: billc@mpd.tandem.com (Bill Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
Subject: Re: Surrender - yeah, right.
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:46:15 GMT
Reply-To: billc@zippy.UUCP (Bill Carter)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Austin TX

In article <l8g6usINNlb9@roundup.crhc.uiuc.edu> rogers@uimrl7.mrl.uiuc.edu writes:
>	I have a scar on my wrist to prove that surrendering can alleviate 
>certain pain from the game.  I was shot (during a time out I might add) at
>a distance of 4 inches by someone who went full auto on my wrist, hand, fingers
>and finally the ground before I could get my hand back in the window. 

   My advice is to always wear gloves (I assume you didn't have any on
   at the time).  In fact, have no bare skin showing anywhere when you
   play paintball unless you don't mind having your skin broken
   sometimes.  It is amazing how paintballs will find unprotected
   areas on you and put a nasty wound there.  Gloves also help keep
   your hands from getting slashed up by briars.

   I don't care much for those JT gloves with the hard plastic back,
   paintballs always break on them.  I prefer the padded kind because
   they will sometimes spare you a hit if it's a grazing shot.  I say
   this even though I wear cheap cloth gloves with the fingers cut
   off the ends.

   Also, I agree with some other writers who have had bad experiences
   trying to hold a bunker.  I treat huts like big trees, they make
   good cover if you run around outside of them.

   -Bill Carter
From: kleung@terapin.com (Keith Leung Keith Leung)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
Subject: Stuff
Date: 15 Aug 92 19:50:33 PST
Organization: BBS


     I would like to say  hi to everyone before I start.

   I'm pretty new to this sub, and pretty new to paintballing.  I bought a
Sheriden PGP to start off with.  I found that the gun is really nice to have
if you need to move quickly since it's pretty small.  The only thing is, how
can I make the gun more accurate?  I've added a 4 inch barrel extender on it,
and it's chrono'ed at 290.  But, accuracy up to 100 feet away is a big problem.
 I would get pretty  close, but would be like 2 feet of the target.  It would
be a help if someone could tell me what I can do to keep accuracy up to 100+
feet.  ( or atleast get fairly close ).  And please, don't tell me
to get a better gun.  I think i'll just stick with  this PGP for now. 

  ... Any help  would be greatly appreciated!
From: gt9989a@prism.gatech.EDU (John Martin Chapman)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
Subject: Re: Stuff
Date: 18 Aug 92 04:29:32 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

The problem with PGP's is that they really don't get much better.  So the
only real way is to get a better gun, and yes, I know you weren't ready to do
that yet.  Actually, I'm glad to hear that.  People who play with PGP's,
Nelspots, etc.  for a while master the basic skills necessary to become
superb players when they get a better gun.   My advice to you is, now that
accuracy has become a problem, work on improving your skills that get you
closer to an opponent.   If you are good enough to advance to within 20' of
someone without getting shot, you're on the right track.  This will take time
and it'll get you shot up pretty good for awhile (until you master taking 
cover but not getting pinned), but you WILL become a quality player.  I'll
take a quality player over a moron with a semi and 12 million rounds anyday.
Of course, I'd prefer a quality player with a semi and 12 million rounds, but
that's asking a little much I'd say.

John

-- 
John Martin Chapman
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt9989a
Internet: gt9989a@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
From: jfol@carina.unm.edu (joshua l follicks-shields)
Subject: Re: Paintball brands
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 21:59:14 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <1992Aug6.140049.6558@panix.com> henryc@panix.com (Henry Chan) writes:
>In article <w6wmfva@lynx.unm.edu> jfol@carina.unm.edu (joshua l follicks-shields) writes:
>>>I have heard that Zap is being sold under several different names.
>>>Do you know any of them?

>>   Yes, it is currentlt being sold under the name "Proball" and
>Is Proball really repackaged Zap balls?

   Yes, this is the information that I have recieved.

>>is one of the USI brands.
>I thought USI's Hot Shots were repackaged R.P. Scherers.  At least one store in
>my area agrees with me.  The boxes for R.P. Scherer and Hot Shots are identical.

    That is because USI has two grades of paintballs, one may be
repackaged RP Scherer (more reasearch to follow, but I wouldn't
bet that they are real top of the line RP Scherer) the other is Zap.

>Has anyone tried Bullseye's Turbo balls?  I wonder if Turbo balls are an improve
>ment over Bullseye's regular grade paint.  My friends complaint about Bullseye
>was the paint wouldn't keep for any length of time once you opened up a box.

    Some locals here have tried it and said that it has real problems with
failure to break. Definitely still second tier.

>-- 
>My friends, we can and we will, never, never, surrender to what is right.
>--Dan Qualye speaking to Pat Robertson's Christian Coalition.



-- 
Old Jedi Master: Ahh Joshua, he's more machine now than man, twisted and evil.

                         New Imperial Forces Motto:
                       Outnumbered, But Not Outfought!
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
From: albertw@netcom.com (Albert Wong)
Subject: Re: Pro-am comments
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 22:17:15 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

In article <16brpiINNq3a@grapevine.EBay.Sun.COM> mtnbiker@singletrack.EBay.Sun.COM writes:
>durability, dependability (3 breaks in 1000rds.)[bullseye paint].
>
>my nits though are an inconsistency of velocity after rapid-fire.
>at one point I could not get the thing to chrono past 240!!!

This seems to be a common problem with smemi-autos, especially if you
use the 7oz tank.  It seems that rapid firing chills the bottle and
the gun parts down so that the Co2 doesn't expand as much, causing the
drop in pressure/speed.  Going to a bigger bottle i.e. 20oz, may
alleviatee the problem.  One of the recent (2 months ago) issue of
Action Pursuit Games magazine had an article about Co2 physics. ^_^
 
I use 7oz siphon bottles, myslef.  I try not to rapid fire too much. 5
round bursts and all.  The bottle lasts longer before haiving to
refill.  And with a 68-Special, every little bit helps. ^_^


>
>I am going to send in my 7oz. with check for $12 to get the
>12oz bottle that are now OEM for the Pro-am.  Tippman says that
>should help the consistency.  I want to avoid going siphon but if
>that is more even tempered then that is the way I will go.
>
>Danimal


-- 
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Albert Wong                                                               |
+-------------------------------------+-------------------------------------+
| Internet       : albertw@netcom.com | Compu$erve : 72657,2103		    |
| America Online : Al Wong            | Prodigy    : WJTM10B		    |
| Genie          : A.Wong7            | Fidonet    : Albert Wong @ 1:125/2  |
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|                        "I am...the email otaku!"                          |
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From: mdurbin@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
Subject: Coop-T Semi-Auto Conversion
Date: 17 Aug 92 10:05:01 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University




     I was looking through an old copy of APG a few weeks ago looking
for a good price on a VM-68 Magnum (I'm left handed and want a left 
handed gun) when I noticed an ad for a conversion kit for PMI based
guns to semi-auto from the Cooper-T folks. It costs less than $150
for most guns and around $200 for a left handed one. This is considerably
less than the price for almost any version of a PMI III (and especially
the one I need).
   
     When I called the number listed in the ad, the rep (who actually
had heard of the MacMurray and Sons 'Annihilator' that I've been playing
with since '88) sounded very proud of their product. I asked him how the 
kit (the name for the kit is 'IMP') on say my gun would compare to an
Illustrator or PMI III. The rep's comments were that it would be as good
as or better than any PMI III and at least come close to an Illustrator
in all respects (accuracy, rate of fire, ball breakage, etc.).

     I know that the Cooper-T people make some very good products. I've 
had a Cooper-T bolt in my gun for a couple of years now and after at least
50,000 rounds it has given me no trouble at all. 

     Has anyone else heard of this kit? Could it really be as good as they
say? I'm willing to spot the guy on the phone some but if it half as good
as they say....If anyone know anything about it please let me know before
I throw $200 dollars at these folks along with perhaps destroying my gun.
Thanks for any help.
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
From: cwang@gsb.columbia.edu (Chris Wang)
Subject: Places...
Organization: Columbia Business School
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 15:26:40 GMT

Can anybody give me a list of good paintball places? I'm looking for ones in 
the NY/NJ area. I hear there are a lot of outdoor places in upstate NY, the 
indoor ones look cheesy to me. Thanks.

-Chris
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
From: henryc@panix.com (Henry Chan)
Subject: Re: electronic paintball
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 11:05:20 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <1992Aug11.142936.1@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu> turner@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu writes:

>I will post when I have any major problems with the gun.  Zap Paintballs and

Please.

>I have ripped apart my gun and put it back togeather without much difficulty.

Wow!  I usually have to use a screwdriver and hex wrench to take my PMI apart.
I don't have sufficient muscle bulk to to enable me to rip through a bunch
of brass tubings.  (^-^)
-- 
My friends, we can and we will, never, never, surrender to what is right.
--Dan Qualye speaking to Pat Robertson's Christian Coalition.

Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
From: jfol@carina.unm.edu (Joshua Follick (Paintball Underground))
Subject: Re: Gas ... CO2 N2 own tank ?
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 92 00:32:12 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <1992Aug20.234456.20164@hsv3.lsil.com> richhg@hsv3.lsil.com (Rich Henderson-Gragg) writes:
>in an article henryc@panix.com (Henry Chan) writes:
>>Most commercial fields do not welcome personal fill stations.
>
>   The major reason for this is a safety issue.  Proper filling proceedures
>MUST be followed.  Most fields I know of don't want the liability imposed.
>They also have trained people fill the tanks. (Note that I said the fields
>that I know of:).  CO2 filling is easy and safe if you have been trained.
>doing it unsafely is only slightly easier and is not worth the risk.  If
>you want to fill your own tanks talk to a good airsmith or the people
>who provide the bulk tank and or filling manifold.  USE a GOOD ACCURATE
>SCALE.  Accept no subsitute. 
>   A quick note about N2.  To be usefull as a paintball propellent it would
>be necessary to place the N2 under MUCH more pressure then CO2 is stored.
>Thus using a CO2 bottle to store N2 would not be practical at the pressures
>the tank was designed to handle.  It is probably illegal besides to fill
>a CO2 tank with N2.  (D.O.T.(Dept of Transportation) Regulations are long
>and detailed on safe handling if hi pressure storage of gasses/liquids.
>They also have an extensive historical knoledge base to back up their
>regulations).
>
   The point of the recent APG article on the subject of safety
and higher PSIs was that while N2 and compressed air require
higher PSIs, they still store in the tank as a gas, while CO2
stores as a liquid. The liquid nature of CO2 actually is supposed
to make CO2 more dangerous. As for CA bottles, all the ones I have seen
when they were new, come with a little flyer saying what kind
of gasses they can safely hold and they all say N2 and compressed air
can be held. What they don't talk about is PSI ratings for the bottles.
Mystery goes on till next month. 


-- 
Old Jedi Master: Ahh Joshua, he's more machine now than man, twisted and evil.

                         New Imperial Forces Motto:
                       Outnumbered, But Not Outfought!
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
From: ffhoust@eos.ncsu.edu (FORREST FRANCI HOUSTON)
Subject: Re: If you could design a gun, what would you put on it?
Keywords: paintball
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 01:13:02 GMT

In article <roeschmf.714460231@craft.camp.clarkson.edu>, roeschmf@craft.camp.clarkson.edu (Martin F. Roesch) writes:
|> tj32633@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Ronin) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> >Hi, I am interested in designing a paintball gun, just for fun.  Since, I am
|> >very inexperienced in the sport of paintball.  I am looking for input from the
|> >experienced players.  What is your idea of the perfect paintball gun???  What
|> >options would you have on the paintball gun.  Please feel free to get technical
|> >Any advice and comments is greatly appreciated!!!!!
|> >Thanks in advance.
|> 
|>   Ok, you asked for it.  My ultimate fantasy gun is a six barrel Gatling 
|> configuration.  My friends and I decided that at 3 R.P.S., you would get a
|> rate of fire to keep semi people's heads down.  The loading would be done
|> by centripetal force of the barrels rotating, and some sort of gas 
|> system would have to be developed.  A cam would cock and fire each of the 
|> barrels as it went through its cycle.  Sound hideous?  Tripod, 1000 round
|> ammo hopper and 50 oz CO2 tank is optional.  The barrels would be rotated by
|> some type of electric motor, most likely.  You wouldn't be able to move fast,
|> but God help anyone who gets in your way...
|> 
|>     Marty
|>       roeschmf@craft.camp.clarkson.edu
|> 
|> 
|> 

Once upon a time I was talking with some people about doing something
like this.  Another option we thought of was to have the each of the
6 barrels have its own CO2 tank and firing mechanism, then it would
just be a matter of firing them in some sort of sequence.

Just my $0.02
ffhoust
From: billc@mpd.tandem.com (Bill Carter)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
Subject: Re: new topic- no pins?
Date: 21 Aug 92 17:02:34 GMT
Reply-To: billc@zippy.UUCP (Bill Carter)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Austin TX

In article <66494@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt9989a@prism.gatech.EDU (John Martin Chapman) writes:
>Here's how I avoid getting pinned.  When you move to a tree or bush or
>whatever, fire at any    
>opponents that are anywhere near, or even just shoot in their general
>direction.  Just about, anybody - espescially newer players, will duck 
>dive, or run .

   Well, this approach may work sometimes but it seems a trifle
   unsubtle.  Experienced players will home in on the sound of your
   fire, and before long you will likely be the subject of some
   unfriendly attention.  Around where I play, when you shoot you often
   have to either hit someone pretty quick or move your hiney to another
   spot to avoid taking fire from multiple directions.

   I've found that the best way to keep from getting pinned is to
   work near a partner or two.  I move up to some decent cover and
   start taking heavy fire, for instance.  I hit the dirt and try
   to return a few rounds one-handed so as to back them off a bit.
   Meanwhile my trusty partner (assuming he's not a wimp) quickly moves
   forward to flank my opponent and nail him while his attention
   is on me.  This has been a very successful ploy for me, but you
   have to be able to keep your cool under fire.  Personally I'd
   rather be the hitter than the bait, but you usually don't get
   to choose.

   Good squads attempt to locate an opponent on his own in the woods,
   and then double-team him and move on to the next guy.  Do this a
   couple of times and you have both momentum and a crushing advantage
   in numbers.

   -Bill
From: dwj0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DAVID W. JONES)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.paintball
Subject: Re: electronic paintball
Date: 13 Aug 92 01:07:14 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

?In article <1992Aug12.110520.20126@panix.com>, henryc@panix.com (Henry Chan) wri
tes:
>In article <1992Aug11.142936.1@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu> turner@mcclb0.med.nyu.edu wr
ites:
>
>>I will post when I have any major problems with the gun.  Zap Paintballs and
>
>Please.
>
>>I have ripped apart my gun and put it back togeather without much difficulty.
>
>Wow!  I usually have to use a screwdriver and hex wrench to take my PMI apart.
>I don't have sufficient muscle bulk to to enable me to rip through a bunch
>of brass tubings.  (^-^)
>--
>My friends, we can and we will, never, never, surrender to what is right.
>--Dan Qualye speaking to Pat Robertson's Christian Coalition.
>

From what I've seen you better have a set of tools if you own a PMI
and thats to keep it together. Some guys had replacement  screws that
had a large head with a knurled (ridged) edge. This is suppose to be an
enhancement for the hex head type that fall out. I've played with a PMI
III and thoruoghly enjoyed it but, loosing screws out of gun is not.

-- 
_______________________________________________________________________________
David W. Jones - Network Coordinator/Telecommunications
                 Lehigh University (215-758-6990)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------