HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jim@spitws117.sbil.co.uk (James Gillespie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: downforce and cornering g's (was which car
Date: 1 Oct 92 17:19:44 GMT
Reply-To: jim@spitws117.sbil.co.uk
Organization: Salomon Brothers International Limited

In article 14533@engr.washington.edu, eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
>
>[lots deleted]
>
>Actually it does not take a F1 car to generate 1g anymore.  Over in
>Europe there's the Ford Escort RS Cosworth 4x4, claimed to be the
>first production car ever to generate net positive downforce
[...]
>which brings up an interesting topic.  with engines getting more and
>more powerful and roads getting more and more clogged, the Escort
>Cosworth's designers decided to trade top speed for cornering power.
>its coefficient of drag is awful, but its cornering power is probably
>unmatched by almost everything else.

The Escort Cosworth's designers set out to build a rally car, not a
street car; after the homologation run of 2500(?) cars, the enormous
rear wing ("please pull me over, officer") will go, and so presumably
will the positive downforce at the rear end.

The car I'm waiting for is one that'll scorch to 60, corner like a F1
car and not need a second mortgage to insure - some of the tabloids
here had articles when the Escort Cosworth was launched claiming that
someone in my position (young, single, living in the centre of London
(hi ladies! :-)) would have to pay in the region of - brace yourselves -
13,000 pounds sterling per year to insure the beast :-(

Now I'm off home to watch Top Gear's film of an XJ220 doing 217 mph :-)

Jim Gillespie ----------------------------------------------------
jim@sbil.co.uk              Salomon Brothers International Limited
+44 71 721 2672             ---------------------------------------------------
          "It doesn't pay to mess with an electric wimp!" - Figowitz
From: dv0o+@andrew.cmu.edu (Doug vanderVeen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Timing the 009
Date: 30 Sep 92 22:53:23 GMT
Organization: Doctoral student, Industrial Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Well, I don't have time to figure out if my FI will turn off my fuel
pump anymore; I have added to my befuddlement through the purchase of a
'74 Campmobile.  It was running poorly when I bought it, so I started in
on a tune-up.  (The exhaust valve clearances were zero, I think that
accounts for most of the problems)  But when it came down to the timing
I was stumped.  The previous owner had upgraded to an 009.  I don't have
any specs on this.
What do I do?

Also, all emission controls except PCV and fuel vapor filtration have
been removed.  Any bets on if it will pass Arizona emissions?

Doug "My FI schematic doesn't agree with my wiring diagram." van der Veen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: '85 Jetta timing mark ?
From: jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com (Jan Vandenbrande)
Date: 29 Sep 92 08:49:19 PDT
Organization: M&E (Division of EDS), Cypress CA

In article <13920011@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> wtjones@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Bill Jones) writes:
>I need to set the timing and it is rather embarassing, but I cant seem
>to find the timing marks.
>
>I suspect it is inside the plug in the clutch housing.  Is that right?
>I heard that the plug is also for a probe to set the timing (Hall effect)
>in the dealership.
>
>Thanks
>

Great, another FAQ entry:

Q:   Where are the timing marks on A1 & A2 VWs?

A:   At the top of the clutch/bell housing you will find a plastic plug.
     Pulling the plug allows you to use a hall sensor. 
     If you want to use a strobe, you will have to *unscrew* the whole
     plug assembly. Then you'll see a reference mark, and an arrow
     on somewhere on the flywheel:  
     	hole:	       [ ]
     			^
    	flywheel:	|
     Normally the two have to line up under normal idle & a strobe connected
     to cylinder #1.
     Some cars require certain vacuum hoses or the idle stabilizer
     to be disconnected. Check manual.

-- 
Jan

jan@camhpp12.mdcbbs.com		(work)
jan@lipari.usc.edu		(school, usually works, forwards)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw,rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Some Redline products available in StL.
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Distribution: stl
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:53:12 GMT

	For those that might be interested, I discovered recently that
some RedLine products are available in St. Louis. Imparts (on Manchester)
carries the motor and transmission oil line (including MTL) for about
$8 a quart (very reasonable IMHO).

	I am not related in any way with Imparts. I am just providing this
as information, given that many people have shown interest before.

Christos.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: Brendan Bailey <sasbrb@unx.sas.com>
Subject:  *Question About Knocking in '86 Golf*
Originator: pabouki@c00422-313mn.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: sasbrb@rolypoly.unx.sas.com
Organization: SAS Institute
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 21:20:18 GMT






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


   I have a 1986 VW Golf automatic with approximately 130,000 miles on
it (I don't know since the stupid odometer randomly works).  Anyhow,
lately, when I start the car in the morning, I hear several knocks that
sound as if they're coming from right under the gearshift under the car. 
I had passengers in the back seat last night and they said the knocks
sounded more to the back of the car.  I usually hear a few rough knocks
when I start the car (on a sloped driveway) and sometimes when I'm attempting 
to accelerate from a stop.  Does anyone know what this possibly could be?  
I'm scared it sounds like a $500.00 noise.  Please tell me it isn't.
   Please mail your followups to me since I do not have .net access
anymore.  Thanks!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brendan Bailey                         "The NFL is on record saying that if 
SAS Institute, Inc - QA/Graph           it adds 150 expansion teams or hell 
sasbrb@unx.sas.com                      freezes over -- whichever comes      
Go Heels! Go Hornets! Go Panthers!      first -- Raleigh will be awarded a
The NFL in Charlotte! Target: 1994!!!   franchise." - The Charlotte Observer
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: dchill@sequent.com (Duncan Hill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Corrado G60 P-Chip
Keywords: P-Chip
Date: 24 Sep 92 20:03:21 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Sequent Computer Systems (Canada) Ltd.


Does anyone know anything about the P-Chip for the Corrado G60.  I know
Neuspeed makes one, does anyone else?  What kind of performance gains can
one expect? (low end torque...horsepower?)  Any negatives about using it?
Any first hand experience would be appreciated.  How much do they cost?
I've heard $275US. Does anyone know of any places to buy the chip in the
Portland, Oregon area?  Thanks for the help.

Duncan Hill (dchill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: ari@leland.Stanford.EDU (Ari Ollikainen)
Subject: Re: Audi questions
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 21:40:14 GMT

In article <18671.2ad15917@ecs.umass.edu> sylveste@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>In article <1992Oct06.000627.1511@wes.on.ca>, tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen) writes:
>> carl@neocad.com (Carl Stern) writes:
>>> Interesting that while other carmakers, ex. Honda, Volvo, are now
>>> embracing 5 cyls, Audi is phasing it out.  
>
>> 
>> Anyway, Volvo and Mercedes have been selling five-cylinder diesels for a
>> long time (does Volvo have a five-cylinder gas engine now?), and Honda's
>> reason for introducing a five-cylinder is clear: marketing.  The Acura
>> five-cylinder is no smoother than an Accord four, but they didn't want
>> to risk eating into the Legend market with a V6 Vigor (hey, shouldn't that
>> be "Vigour"? :) )...
>> 
>
>       The 5 cylinder that volvo was using was made by Audi.  It was the same
>engine that was in the 5000 diesel.
>

BZZZTTTT!!! Both of you are wrong about the Volvo "5 cylinder diesel"!

The diesel engine used in Volvo passenger cars was (is?) a 6 cylinder 
engine first used in the VW LT72 cargo van. The engine design is derived
from the VW 4 cylinder and is a direct lineal descendent of the Audi
5 cylinder with an extra cylinder and different crankshaft. These 
engines (at one time) had the per cylinder displacement in common.

The Audi 5000D used a 5cylinder diesel engine in non-turbo and turbo 
form.

Volvo designed a new, "compact" 5cylinder engine for the 850...

Ari Ollikainen
(an old VW fan(atic) and ex-Volvo owner: 122S/123GT, 142E, 242DL, Diesel)









Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: fm@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (fadi.maamari)
Subject: VW Golf headlight Assembly clips
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 01:56:47 GMT

 As a flying stone recently did serious damage to the headlight 
of my VW Golf,  I had to replace it. The dealer wanted a
whopping $185 for it- I got it for $99 from Wolfsport. The 
problem is that I had an awfully hard time with the plastic clips
and inserted screws that connect the lens to the metal frame that
screws into the front of the car. I was not able to remove the
clips from the old lense without damaging them (granted, I was
a bit clumsy; but it's hard to figure out the first time). I bought
a new set of clips ($20.00 for three from the dealer- Ouch!). The two
with the adjusting screws are easy to put in; but I am at a loss
on how to exert enough force to clip the third (the one with
the metal pin instead of the screws). I put back the old one
temporarily (it's semi-broken) in order to pass NJ inspection,
but would like to complete the job.
  Is there a trick to it? The infinite wisdom of the net would
be appreciated.
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Timing the 009
Date: 1 Oct 1992 20:02:26 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


Muir sez somewhere that with fuel injection only the fuel injection
distributer can be used.

This has been an interpretation of His Word.  Let no man chuck asunder.

;-)

Bill
-- 
William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: mce5921@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Martin Emde)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Eurovan replace Vanagon?
Date: 5 Oct 92 17:35:05 GMT
Organization: Boeing

Will VW continue producing vanagon campers now that the Eurovan is out?
Is there a camper version of the Eurovan?

Any info is appreciated...

Thanks,
-Martin


-- 
Martin C Emde  <mce5921@bcstec.boeing.com>  uunet!bcstec!mce5921 
Boeing Commercial Airplane Group - 777 Electrical Systems
Renton, Washington  USA
From: Bob.Smith@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Bob Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Transaxle Rebuilders:  Need address or phone number
Date: 27 Sep 92 16:46:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: samba.1992Sep27.164613.15975
Distribution: usa
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service


Hello,

I need to get a rebuilt transaxle for my VW bus, but don't wanna buy
one from a salvage yard.  Anyone got any info on respected rebuilders
or any experiences with rebuilders.

thanks in advance,

bob smith

--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters)
Subject: Screwy Radiator Cap
Organization: Chicago Software Works
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 04:06:36 GMT

From time to time I have noticed a small amount of antifreeze/coolant
escaping from the overflow tank of my 88 Fox.  It has started to become
a bit more of a nuisance than I'd like to deal with.  I pulled the feed
hose to the overflow tank off the radiator, blocked the fitting on the 
radiator, and pressurized the system to find that the leak is from the
cap (one of those threaded green plastic ones) itself.  I have talked
with a couple of other Fox owners with the same problem.   Has anyone 
else had trouble with this type of radiator cap?

...Marty
From: atosswil@sumax.seattleu.edu (Andy Tosswill)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Removing Instrument Cluster, '84 Rabbit
Date: 4 Oct 92 02:40:30 GMT
Organization: Seattle University, Seattle WA

Folks,
	Well, my odometer has finally stopped working altogether and I need to
fix/replace it. I read the Bentley manual on removing the instrument cluster
and it seems straightforward. However, upon actually trying it, I ran into some
problems.

	Specifically, the cluster seems too large in the vertical dimension to
come out of the dash easily, and the assorted wires and cables attached to the
back don't make matters any easier.

	Does anyone out there have any experience or helpful hints on removing
the instrument cluster?

-- Andy

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Corrosion Warranty
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 13:30:14 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.212259.9204@newshub.sdsu.edu>, dunster@sdsu.edu (mark dunster) writes:
>As an owner of an 89 Jetta living in sunny San Diego I have a
>problem with ... rust! The VW has a 6 year warranty on corrosion,
>and (surprise, surprise) VW is refusing to honour their warranty.
>
>To those who have experiences with VW U.S., do you agree with this?
>
>(iii)  I have taken this matter to the Better Business Bureau, and VW
>and I are going to arbitration in a couple of weeks. Any hints or
>tips on how I should handle this? Is it usually rigged in favour of
>the Auto Companies, and am I wasting my time?
>
>Many thanks!
>
>M. Dunster.

I have had a similar problem with my 86 GTI. I had rust around the windshield
and had replaced the windshield with one from the local glass place.

The car also developed some rust around the rubber gutters on the roof as
well as around the hatch. I had the district representative look at the
car, and the result was the same. He told me that VW would not cover
the rust around the windshield because "probably the installer scratched
the paint inside the frame when installing it". 

As to the other rust, the rep looked at my odo and noticed that the
car had 140K miles, and he told me "What the hell are you complaining
about with that type of mileage?" To which I replied that the warranty
was 6 years, unlimited mileage.

He poked his head inside of the car and noticed a couple of dash plaques
from some TSD (not PRO) rally events, and said, "Don't waste my time -
you entered this car in an automotive competition, that alone voids
ANY warranty on the car"

No wonder VW has problem with selling its cars....its not the cars
that suck...its the after-sales support by VWoA!

Ric Golen

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: IANR009@UNLVM.UNL.EDU (D. Kirk Darnell)
Subject: Early 80s diesel VW pickup???
Organization: University of Nebraska
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 92 07:59:10 CST

Greetings netters:
 
I'm looking at buying an early 80's VW diesel pickup.  I was just wondering
if there are specific problems I should look for.  An obvious concern would
be how the engine was cared for but I've got a great mechanic looking it over.
If you have any suggestions, please post.
Thanks for your help...
 
**********************************************************************
*D. KIRK DARNELL, COMPUTER SYSTEMS ANALYST                           *
*AGRICULTURAL ECONOMICS                                              *
*UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA                                              *
*IANR009@UNLVM.UNL.EDU                                               *
*                                                                    *
* "YOUR ARE THE ONLY ONE IN THE WORLD THAT CAN USE YOUR POTENTIAL!"  *
*                            -ZIG ZIGLAR-                            *
**********************************************************************
From: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: For Sale-----1967 VW Bus
Date: 2 Oct 92 14:55:17 GMT
Reply-To: baw2@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Bruce A Weisberg)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Columbia University


	FOR SALE:

	1967 VW Bus (Kombi)

	Engine: 1500cc Original stock, but rebuilt. Has 17,000 Miles 
	on it.  Brand new (NOT REBUILT) Carb, fuel pump.
	Trans: In good shape- Doesn't pop out of gear, etc.
	Body: Some rust.  Needs lower left rocker panel, which I have
	at home. Only needs to be welded. Other than that, only minor
	repairs required.
	Interior: A little beat up, but very restorable. All seats present
	and interiaor is wood paneled.
	Extras: The Bentley repair manual ($100 value...that's what I paid
	for it, anyway) and the old carb, which is servicable.
	Why is he getting rid of it since it sounds so good:
		I purchased this bus 2 months ago with the hope of restoring it
		fully.  I acquired another vehicle (for free, no less)
		and don't have room for this thing of beauty, and cannot afford
		to insure 2 cars (i live in NY).  Believe me, I hate to get rid
		of it.  I dreamed of owning one for 11 years, and now its 
		gotta go... It served me well, drove it all around with no
		problems.  I want it to go to someone who is interested in VW's
		who will restore it to its former glory.  Folks, this could
		be a real gem if restored.
	Price: $2000, negotiable (but not too negotiable!)
	
	Again, I really would prefer to sell it to a VW enthusiast who will
fix it up.  I am in no rush to get rid of it, and will wait for the right
buyer, so don't contact me if you want a beater to drive into the ground.
This vehicle is hard to find in this condition in the northeast USA, and I 
promised the guy who I bought it from I would give it a good home, so I will.

	Thanks All,
	Bruce

Respond via E-mail, please.
Organization: University of Maine System
Date: Tuesday, 29 Sep 1992 16:47:44 EDT
From: Nicholas C. Hester <IA80024@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: TIRES: Kelley-Springfields

I'll be changing my tires in the next couple of months and I was wondering
if anyone here had tried Kelleys.   I know some people that have had good
luck with them, but I'm not sure how they would work on my car.

I have:
       a '90 Fox, with the original Pirellis on them.

I took them through two winters but need to replace them with some
all-weathers.

Thanx for any opinions!!  E-mail or posting is fine since I read this
group.  I haven't seen anything in the FAQ about Kelleys, just in case
this has been discussed before I started here.

___

  Nicholas  Hester                  "I'm a virgin...I'm just not good at it."
ia80024@Maine.bitnet                                 -Ramada, "Hot Shots!"
ia80024@Maine.maine.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mcconnel@b11.b11.ingr.com (Guy McConnell)
Subject: '85 GTI, no 5th gear - solution!
Keywords: Thanks for the input
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville, AL
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 17:41:11 GMT


    Thanks to all of those who replied both personally and in this newsgroup.
A special thanks to Mark Sirota for his extra help while our news server was
on the blink.  I'll describe my findings in a bit of detail in case anyone
else may run across this in the future:

    I was under the car adjusting the shifter rod and was unable to get the
transmission to go into 5th gear, even when I adjusted it so far over that it
no longer would go into reverse.  I put it in 1st one time and wiggled the
shifter a bit and it just flopped over like it was no longer connected.  I
thought I had not tightened the collar back up enough and that the rod was
slipping but, when I checked it, this was not the case.  I lay there staring
up through the engine compartment when I spied the culprit.  The solid plastic
"selector rod" (there are two "selector rods" - one solid plastic and one metal
rod with plastic ends) was broken on the passenger-side end.  This rod connects
the "selector shaft lever" to the rest of the linkage via the other (metal)
"selector rod".  When I moved the shifter over to the 5th gear position, the
ball connector simply came out of the "selector rod" and did not move the 
"selector shaft lever" over to engage 5th gear.  When shifting back the other
way, the ball went back into its housing on the "selector rod" and the other
gears worked normally.  Cost to repair: $1.80.  It was a nice chase and the
advice I got from you people put me in the right area.  Thanks again for this
invaluable resource.  (The terms in quotes are from the Bently manual)

--
Guy McConnell  guy@mspe5.b11.ingr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rcs@cbnews.cb.att.com (ronald.sorenson)
Subject: Re: VW Salvage yards? (need 90-91 Jetta wheel centercaps)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 12:15:38 GMT
Keywords: VW salvage


For you northern MA and southern NH guys... The best VW salvage and parts
place I've found is Herk Enterprises
                    132 Wells Village Road
                    Sandown, NH 03873
                    603-887-3118
                    1-800-245-4375

Ron Sorensen
AT&T Bell Labs



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Strut/Shocks Rebuilding
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:54:59 GMT

Well, finally after some prodding by the net; I broke my old
tradition and rebuilt my own struts on my '84 GTi last weekend.
What really motivated this was the fact that I was putting on
Koni Sports, which have a small flatted stem for external 
adjustment of the firmness.  I feared that Joe Blow mechanic
at the tire place would probably just break these off.  And
at $100 a pop, that's no idle problem.  When I asked my
reliable mechanic (Doug at Doug's Bug's & Bunnies) he wanted
$82 for the labor.  So I invested in some good tools for $75.

Anyway, in the process I uncovered a problem most on the net
seems to be unaware of --- some shocks (KYB, Koni) do not have
Allen key or slotted piston rods -- they have round shafts
with flats on the side (10mm on KYB, 11mm on Koni).  This
makes it real hard to get a tool/wrench down into any socket
you might use for the larger nut.  So here's how it went....

I picked up a good spring compressor, a special socket, and
a formed tool for the shaft at a local tool supplier for
about $75.  The special socket was a deep 22mm type with
a 1/2 drive tab to the side (like a crow's foot wrench).
This socket was completely open on the top for insertion
of just about tubular tool.  This little gem cost about
$22 :-(   Then for about $6 I got an 11mm hex-shaped tool
that had a internal socket that was a perfect fit for the
flatted shaft on the Koni's.

The older KYB's were removed using a quick jerk on the 
large mounting nut while the struts were still on the car
(as per Don Borowski's hint).  Removing the large nut after
the spring was compressed on the bench was fairly easy then.
The nice thing about this whiz-bang socket was that you could
use a torque wrench when putting the struts back together
(just be sure to torque the nut BEFORE you release the spring).

I also had to drill a small center hole thru the hex-tool
for the piston shaft in order to clear the adjusting stem.
All-in-all, the installation went fairly well -- took about
2.5 hours for the first strut (learning curve and total fear
that all kinds of metal things would go flying thru the air),
1.5 hours for the second, and 5 hours total for the front
struts and rear shocks. 

The real surprise was that the Koni rear shocks have 
a 12mm shaft instead of the typical 11mm size.  I ended
up drilling out a bunch of washers and plates.  Luckily they
supplied a new bushing for the rubber mounts ( that would have
been real hell to drill out!).

Anyway, the job is done, and the Koni's work great.  Boy! are they
stiff on the full setting!  Found bumps I never knew were there.
First competition runs with them will occur this coming weekend
at an SCCA Solo II.  I'll post the results.

Mark