HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: styri@hal.nta.no (Haakon Styri)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers,comp.sys.ibm.pc.soundcard
Subject: Music writing s/w
Date: 29 Dec 92 19:28:08 GMT
Reply-To: styri@nta.no
Followup-To: poster
Organization: Norwegian Telecom Research

This may be a FAQ (and the Followup-To header is set accordingly), but I
need some advice on buying a soundcard and software for writing music.

My home computer is an ol' 16MHz 386SX with a plain color VGA monitor.
I'm using Windows 3.0, but I don't need to use it for this application.
That will probably rule out some of the more fancy systems. Anyway, I
don't need anything really fancy - I just want to write, play back and
print out music when arranging for a choir. The system must handle 8
voices, and I want to be able to select any combination of the voices
for playing back. I want to write the lyric lines and other stuff around
the lines using the same system. And, I want to be able to write any
language with proper characters. Printing should at least be postscript.

One problem I've noticed with music editors is that they really write
music for keyboard playing. I want to be able to control the notation.

Usually input will be mouse and the PC keyboard, but I do like the
idea of feeding the system from a synth using midi. I may want to use
a separate midi-controller for that, so it's not a must that the
sound board is equipped for this. I really don't need to control
the sound-board from midi.

Other `musts' are editor transpose, and sound-board pitch-control
from editor mode. Anyway, what I need is something not too expensive,
but still something that works for real.

---
Haakon Styri
Xref: sparky rec.music.makers:11629 alt.guitar.tab:4726
From: krisciun@sheepdip.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Joe Krisciunas)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers,rec.music.makers.guitar.tab,alt.guitar.tab
Subject: Re: Need lyrics to two Spin Doctors' songs
Date: 29 Dec 92 18:57:44 GMT
Reply-To: krisciun@easygoer.crd.ge.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: GE Corporate Research & Development

The lyrics are included in the booklet with the CD.

-- 
- Joe Krisciunas
  krisciunas@crd.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers,rec.music.makers.guitar,alt.guitar
From: kew@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (steve.w.askew)
Subject: Re: Peavey Classic 50/410 ?
Followup-To: rec.music.makers.guitar
Summary: Peavey reliability
Keywords: Peavey,amp,amplifier,Classic 50
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 15:22:04 GMT

In article <1992Dec28.163357.16627@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov>, gmayhew@sven.lerc.nasa.gov (George Mayhew) writes:
> I intend to plunk down about $550 tonight for a new Peavey
> Classic 50/410.  I tried it out yesterday, and it has a good
> tone for blues harp.
> 
> This is an eleventh hour appeal for information from anyone
> who has experience with this amp.  If you can tell me anything
> about its reliablility, any quirks, etc., please do so this 
> very moment.
> 
> The amp has been discussed in other threads, and I have not 
> heard any bad news.  I just have wedding day jitters.
> 
> george

Well Im a little late but!
	
Oh! how was the wedding night 8^)
I've had mine for about 8 months now, and the other guitarist in our band
has had his about 6 months. We both play in multiple situations. I have put
about 10 hours a week on mine including about 18 gigs. Thats about 300+ hours
this year. My partner has probably put twice that on his. So total were looking
at aprox, 1k hours of HARD use. The only problem between both amps was a loose
nut on the bright input jack on his, and a bad connection in the reverb tank 
on mine. I do not attribute the reverb problem to Peavey as it is a Acutronics
tank. My tubes still seem fairly fresh(thanks to the fan cooling). The speakers
have loosened up giving a more Super Reverb kinda sound. These amps have had
real life abuse. They both have casters installed, that allows for alot of
bouncing and jarring. I would say that so far the Peavey is as dependable and 
well built as any amp I have owned, including Fenders, Marshall, Pearce and 
even Boogie!

Steve
Doin That Blues ThAng!
Of course this
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers,rec.music.makers.guitar
From: barothwe@floyd.cca.cr.rockwell.com
Subject: Recording Off an 8ohm Spkr Output
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 93 17:19:25 -0600
X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA14209; Sat, 2 Jan 93 15:19:50 -0800
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	id AA12858; Sat, 2 Jan 93 17:19:26 -0600
X-To: rec.music.makers.usenet
X-Cc: rec.music.makers.guitar.usenet
X-Mts: smtp


Does anyone know of a good, CHEAP way to record the sound of
a tube guitar amp off it's speaker output. I'm assuming the 
speaker would still need to remain connected so as not to
harm the amplifier, right?

No, I don't want to spend the money to buy an H&K Red Box or
a Scholz Power Soak.

And yes, I'd love to have a Sans Amp, which I was saving for,
but this great deal came along on a Fender Princeton Reverb
for only $75...

I'd be interested in building something myself... does
anyone have a circuit that does what a Red Box does?

Any ideas?

Thank you!

===============================================================================
  Bruce Rothwell                            \ /~~~~~~\     Opinions expressed
  barothwe@floyd.cca.cr.rockwell.com         X        )    are mine, but they
  Rockwell Int'l - CCA                      / \______/     might be shared by 
  Cedar Rapids, IA 	                                        multitudes !!
===============================================================================
From: dam@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (David Morning)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers
Subject: Re: ==> +30db GAIN Circuit for Your Guitar: $25 <==
Date: 21 Dec 92 15:01:27 GMT
Organization: Glasgow University Computing Science Dept.

barothwe@floyd.cca.cr.rockwell.com writes:


>I wanted to make anyone who is interested aware...

>	A local service tech has come up with a really slick circuit
>that will add 30 db of gain to your signal!

30 dB is pushing your luck with a high output pick-up and a 9 volt battery.
Can you say clip??

>	If anyone is interested, email me directly and I'll be glad to put pass
>along the particulars.

Out of curiousity, who is he?

Dave

--
From: danb@zx.qsp.UUCP (Daniel Benbenisty)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers
Subject: Re: ==> +30db GAIN Circuit for Your Guitar: $25 <==
Date: 23 Dec 92 20:38:27 GMT
Organization: Quality Software Products, LA, CA

In article <Bznp8B.Iu6@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk> dam@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (David Morning) writes:
>
>It'll overload with some pick-ups anyway. 30dB gain is far too much for a
>puny 9 volt battery. I've got a 26dB first stage gain in my home made amp
>running off 30 volts(!) and that clips occasionally with a Telcaster. 
>A Telecaster's pick-ups aren't exactly in the megavolts category.
>With 9 volts, it would positively *FUZZ*

1. the spec "30dB gain" has no implicit power requirements.  It just means 
that you're multiplying the signal by 10^3 (1000) times.  Now, the signal 
from any pickup is pretty damn weak (anybody have any numbers?).  Maybe I'm 
wrong, but I wouldn't imagine that 1000 times this power would be beyond a 
9V battery.

2. The aforementioned home-made circuit is running off of 30V, but how 
many amps does it draw?  Neglecting a battery's internal resistance, you can 
still draw the same (or more) amps from a 9V source as from a 30V source.

>The input stage to an amp is generally resistive, so it's relatively trivial
>to make an op-amp do this, however the passive tone and volume controls
>interact with the pick-up. I noticed he was a replacement pot would be supplied
>which suggests he hasn't taken this into account.
>
>I'm pretty certain this product WILL change your tone  :-)

Hmmm, well, anyone on the net have a frenquency spectrum analyser? Is the 
inventor of this device willing to have it subjected to scientific scrutiny?

>Dave

>>>===Pan-Handle-Dan===>	danb@qsp.com
Daniel Benbenisty		Guitarist for EARWURM		
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers
From: ooptk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Subject: how to clean tc electronic intensity pot?
Reply-To: ooptk@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 01:21:42 GMT

I've got a tc electronic chorus/flange/pitch mod pedal which is only about 6
months old. The intensity pot is already scratchy (I hope that is all that's 
wrong) and I want to clean it. This pedal is put together VERY well and
requires you to take the knobs, etc. off to get access to the pots. Has anyone
done this? 

do the knobs pop off ?

this really requires a couple of specialized tools, so I may just bring it in
to an electronics shop, but would like to try it myself first.

it's still under warranty, but I don't want to part with it just for a scratchy
pot, it is a DAMN nice effector!!

thanks...

Terry
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
From: fdvlba@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Fort Davis VLBA site)
Subject: Re: strat plus tone pickup select strangeness
Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 92 21:15:50 GMT


>>Also, one more .... the strings used to stay in tune after using the tremelo
>>, but now the G string always goes sharp afterwards, whereas the other strings
>>stay in tune.
>> probable causes?  need to oil the wilkinson nut at the g string? get a
>>heavier
>> gauge g string? maybe there is a v cut into the roller nut or the saddle
>>where
>> the string hangs upon trying to return to normal (pre whammied) postition?
>> hipshot tremsetter needs tightening or losening?

>My American Standard stays perfectly in tune but that's probably because I have
>the Tremsetter cranked up very heavy.  Do you think  the fact that I took off
>the tremelo arm and no longer use the tremelo has something to do with it?  I
>don't know.  Anyway, my bridge is very stable now due in no small part to the
>use of the Tremsetter, a very nice little dealie.  Now if one could find a
>"hard-tail" in an American Stardard version...

>>thanks strat people!
>
>>Terry

>You're welcome, Terry.

>Brian

If you are not using the vib bar, why bother with the tremsetter?  Best thing
is to tighten the springs until the tailpiece lays flat against the body.
No more tuning hassles!  No vibrato bar, either.

Two tuning tips for Strats...

First, tune from high E to low E.  The high E changes least with the floating 
of the bridge.  Go through this several times quickly before that last fine
tuning (you are using a tuner, I hope).  Before changing a string's tuning,
see if you can find the one string that is out of tune.  Usually one is out,
causing the others to go the other way.  One sharp string makes 5 flat ones.
Make sure the instrument is warmed to the temperature you will perform at
before altering tuning.  Remember, go through all the strings and find the 
worst one first.

Second, wiggle the bar after each adjustment of the tuning.  I always push
(dive)slightly after any tuning change, as a frictional bias may prevent the
strings from being completely free.  If you do this when you are tuning,
you can count on being able to get back to the same place after a serious
whammy session (locking nuts disregard).  This takes care of tailpiece
binding (a la Kahler) as well as nut friction.  Wiggle, then dive slightly.

I have seen many guitarists take the bar off the guitar because they can't
get the thing to play in tune otherwise.  Pity, I would really miss the 
expressive capabilities of the vibrato.
__
Steve Cowell, tube amp freak
From: MIZUTANT@fred.wharton.upenn.edu (Taka Mizutani)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
Subject: Re: Replacement speaker for amp
Date: 29 Dec 92 15:26:01 GMT
Followup-To: rec.music.makers.guitar
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Thanks to all who responded about my request for suggestions on what
speaker to use to replace the one in my MESA/Boogie Studio .22+. Judging
from the expense and time involved installing a new speaker, I think I
might wait a while, save some money, and get an extension cabinet, at least
another 12", maybe even a 4x12" Marshall cab (if I can afford it!).  

BTW, I replaced the pickups in my Fender American Standard Strat with
Seymour Duncan Classic Stacks, and the tone became much darker and warmer,
less bright, especially in the neck position. That's why I said the tone
became too dark. A stock strat would sound horrible with bright pickups,
bright speakers combination.

Taka Mizutani
MIZUTANT@fred.wharton.upenn.edu
From: frankc@tgf.tc.faa.gov (Frank Coffman)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
Subject: Re: strat plus tone pickup select strangeness
Date: 31 Dec 1992 14:23:00 GMT
Organization: FAA Technical Center, Pomona, NJ	
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: offserv2.faa.gov

fdvlba@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Fort Davis VLBA site) writes:

>Anyone like their tremsetter?  I hated mine and chunked it first thing.

I do, but I don't do anything too radical with the whammy.  Mostly
just tremomlo.


--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
-  Frank Coffman	frankc@tgf.tc.faa.gov                      -
-			FAA Technical Center			   -
-			Mail Stop ACN-400c			   -
From: holtslander@skyfox
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
Subject: RE: Man-dO-lin
Date: 21 DEC 92 19:12:50 GMT
Organization: University of Saskatchewan
NNTP-Posting-Host: sask.usask.ca

You asked about help on the sitar. Try posting on rec.music.indian You
should get lots of help.
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
From: chris@labtam.labtam.oz.au (Chris Taylor)
Subject: Voice box query
Organization: Labtam Australia Pty. Ltd., Melbourne, Australia
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 03:59:42 GMT
Keywords: Voice box


Seeking enlightenment about voice boxes.

Am I right to assume these are variable band-pass filters like Wah-Wahs,
with the microphone input replacing the foot pedal?

I think that originally voice boxes used metal tubes so that the player
used his mouth to alter the resonant frequency - but now there are
electronic ones (?)

Does the voice box have a phase-locked loop that locks onto a frequency 
component of the voice, so that the voice frequency controls the position
of the band-pass filter?

Or am I way off the track?
From: goldstn@cse.uta.edu (David Goldstein)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
Subject: Wanted: source for cheap power tubes
Date: 22 Dec 92 18:45:58 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Science Engineering at the University of Texas at Arlington

I'm looking for phone #'s and addresses for companies that might sell 
cheap power tubes.  I have an ampeg amp that a friend blew the power
tubes a few years ago, and then moved away!  
Thanks!

David
-- 
David Goldstein,Faculty Associate, ARRI,7300 Jack Newell Blv S.,Ft Worth, TX  
76112  817-794-5921, fax 817-794-5952 :)  LOOKING FOR A TENURE-TRACK POSITION
AI, parallel/distr processing, and software engineering. Distributed,Real-time,
Knowledge-Based Systems. poet, musician, good all-around guy :)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
From: dnj@barbeque.verity.com (Dave Johansen)
Subject: Re: Replacement speaker for amp
Reply-To: dnj@barbeque.verity.com (Dave Johansen)
Organization: Verity, Inc.  1550 Plymouth Ave, Mt. View, CA 94043
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 21:37:24 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.204444.4413@cbfsb.cb.att.com>,
kew@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (steve.w.askew) writes:
> In article <MIZUTANT-201292160200@microlab31.med.upenn.edu>,
MIZUTANT@fred.wharton.upenn.edu (Taka Mizutani) writes:
> > Hi,
> > I have a MESA/Boogie Studio .22+ combo amp with a 12" Black Shadow speaker.
> > The amp has a real "dark", kind of laid back sound.
> > 
> > I got this amp to replace my Marshall JCM800, which was way too loud to
> > play with at home (floor vibrates, walls shake). I liked the relatively
> > bright, clear sound of the Marshall, and it complemented the sound of my
> > modified American Standard Strat nicely. However, when I changed amps, the
> > tone I got just became too dark.
> 	
> 	That dark sound is more than likely the Boogie and not the
> 	speaker. Marshalls have a more raw straight razor kind of distortion
> 	the Boogie has a more smoother molten glass sound IMHO!
> > 
> > Can I replace the stock "Black Shadow" speaker made, I think, by
> > MESA/Boogie, with a Celestion, as long as the impedances match? Is this a
> > bad idea?
> > 
> > Also, what type of Celestion 12" should I use? Since my amp is only 22
> > watts, can I use the reissue "Greenbacks", which I believe are rated at 25
> > watts?
> 
> 	Any 12 inch speaker will work. I think the .22 is actually only 17
> 	watts.
> 	Hey Try hooking it up to a 4X12 cabinet 8^) I think you will be 
> 	impressed. Course That wont help the floor and wall ThAng!
> > 
> > All responses are appreciated.
> > Thanks in advance,
> > 
> > Taka Mizutani
> > MIZUTANT@fred.wharton.upenn.edu
> 
> 
> 	Steve
> 	Doin That Blues ThAng!
> 


I believe that the "standard" speaker (Black Shadow) is
a Celestion, and the upgrade is to an EV 12L, I know that 
this is true for the Mark I reissue... (of which I have
one for sale.. :-) ) unabashed sales plug.... You can safely
use a Greenback/Blackback if you so desire... I have seen
Vintage 30s made from G12-T-75 Celestions with the Vintage
30 paper coils, which are supposed to be the real deal..
More info if you're interested...

-dnj
From: tmis1692@altair.selu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
Subject: Re: Digitech GSP21 Pro
Date: 22 Dec 92 18:38:27 GMT
Organization: Southeastern Louisiana University

In article <1h4q3cINN4b7@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) writes:
> 
> I'm having some a problem with my Digitech GSP21.
> It is the first model, the Pro, that came out in '91.
> But I expect it would not be to much different from the Legend.
> 
> Anyway, it thinks that I have the effects loop wired even when I do not.
> Therefore instead of the effects loop being bypassed on every program
(stuff deleted)
> Has anyone else had this problem?  Do you what might be happening?
> Do you know of anyway to fix it?  Or will I have to return the
> unit to Digitech/DOD for repairs?
> 
> Thanks.
> Rich

I have a similar problem with my GSP-21 (The original model).  I can't use the
effects send/return on my Randall RG-212 with the GSP-21.  I have to run it in
series to make it work.  Ex: Guitar---GSP21---Amp. Channel. 
Also, how much trouble/is it worth it to put in the new chip for the GSP-21?
Thanks,
Kevin - TMIS1692@selu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
From: gregory@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (gregory.a.youngdahl)
Subject: Need MXR information
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1992 05:49:50 GMT

Hi all,

	I have an MXR Flanger/Doubler model 126 (an AC powered rack mount
unit), and it appears that the power transformer has developed a problem.
On the back of the unit there is an address for MXR that is in Rochester,
New York, but a call to directory assistance in the area had no listing
for them.

	Does anyone know where they are now located, or if they are still
in business?

	If they are no longer around, then perhaps there is a source of a
similar transformer.  The one in the unit has the numbers 413-7840 R on
the side, and T-82200  1424V on the top, with no manufacturer or any other
information on it.  The power supply is pretty simple, with the Xformer
secondary (center tap grounded) driving a little 7901 rectifier package,
a couple of filter capacitors, with 7812 and 7912 3-terminal voltage
regulators producing +/- 12v.

	Can anyone glean any meaning out of those transformer numbers,
or perhaps recommend some specs to look for in a replacement transformer
that would have sufficient voltage/current capabilities to drive the
12 volt regulators at their max ratings (1 amp??)?

	I'd appreciate e-mail replies to greg@ihlpm.att.com if possible,
since I can't keep up with with the net like I'd like to.

Thanks for any info,
-- 
Greg Youngdahl    AT&T Bell Laboratories   Naperville, IL
greg@ihlpm.att.com
From: tom@cpac.washington.edu (How about a session)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
Subject: Re: Stupid Marshall/Bassman tricks???
Followup-To: rec.music.makers.guitar
Date: 31 Dec 92 20:00:04 GMT
Organization: Center for Process Analytical Chemistry, UW
	<1992Dec26.072136.9553@pride386.PP.COM>
	<1992Dec30.152729.6131@cbnewsh.cb.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bailey.cpac.washington.edu
In-reply-to: spock@cbnewsh.cb.att.com's message of Wed, 30 Dec 1992 15:27:29 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.152729.6131@cbnewsh.cb.att.com> spock@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (Steve Horvath) writes:

>   [...]

>     +-----------------------------------------------------------------+
>     | Steve Horvath         |  Turn your underwear inside out......   | 
>     | spock@homxc.att.com   |  Save water and detergent :-)           |
>     +-----------------------------------------------------------------+

I would like to build a Vulcan harp, and have a few questions:

1. What is the most appropriate Earth wood to use for the body?
2. What is the tuning?
3. What do the knobs do?

Thanks for any help.
--
Tom
From: drkerns@sony7.sdrc.com (sean kerns)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
Subject: Whammy Tuning
Date: 31 Dec 92 15:15:01 GMT
Organization: SDRC

Steve Cowell writes:

Two tuning tips for Strats...

>First, tune from high E to low E.  The high E changes least with the floating 
>of the bridge.  Go through this several times quickly before that last fine
>tuning (you are using a tuner, I hope).  Before changing a string's tuning,
>see if you can find the one string that is out of tune.  Usually one is out,
>causing the others to go the other way.  One sharp string makes 5 flat ones.
>Make sure the instrument is warmed to the temperature you will perform at
>before altering tuning.  Remember, go through all the strings and find the 
>worst one first.

>Second, wiggle the bar after each adjustment of the tuning.  I always push
>(dive)slightly after any tuning change, as a frictional bias may prevent the
>strings from being completely free.  If you do this when you are tuning,
>you can count on being able to get back to the same place after a serious
>whammy session (locking nuts disregard).  This takes care of tailpiece
>binding (a la Kahler) as well as nut friction.  Wiggle, then dive slightly.

>I have seen many guitarists take the bar off the guitar because they can't
>get the thing to play in tune otherwise.  Pity, I would really miss the 
>expressive capabilities of the vibrato.
>__
>Steve Cowell, tube amp freak

I agree with the wiggling of the bar, and also not tuning from the low E.
I generally find, though, that the most stable string on my guitars is the D.
It seems to be the least affected by any out of tune situation.

Some other things you can do to help your Strat:

Make sure you are neat with your string windings; don't gob the whole thing
around the post- 3 or 4 winds works well.

Try not running the strings under the trees. The only one on my guitar 
(an '83) that really needs it is the high E; (it pops out, otherwise). 

Some other things that have worked for me are: removing the middle two of the
six screws that hold the bridge down to reduce drag, and drilling the string
holes deeper at the back of the trem block (you need a friend with acces to 
a drill press or mill for this). If you deepen these holes (the depth of the
ledge where the ball end rests) you will shorten the streng length, effectively
reducing the string tension, which may relieve some binding.

Also, try not to loosen your spring tension too much, or use fewer that three
springs, as the bridge won't stay in one place ever. And, finally, you may have 
better luck with some good aftermarket (e.g. Schecter) springs than the stock
ones; I did.


Good luck.

Snake