HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: john@aquarius.unm.edu (John Prentice)
Subject: Conditions on Rainier?
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 04:03:55 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Physics & Astro, University of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Originator: john@aquarius.unm.edu

I am planning a trip to Rainier either for June or July, depending on
conditions.  We are still considering what route, it depends on conditions
also.  I would seriously consider Liberty Ridge if it were in shape when I am 
there, but failing that I am not real picky.  The main point of the trip is
conditioning, not to climb anything in particular.  In any case, I had
heard that the Cascades had a light snow year, which implies that we might
want to get there in mid to late June instead of early July which is when I
have usually gone.  I would appreciate it if anyone could give me some info
on what the conditions really are like and how the weather in general has been.
One thing I definitely don't want to do is be there when things are 
melting.  I also don't want to get nailed with 3 feet of snow and 100 mph
winds if I can avoid it :-) .

Thanks.

John
-- 
John K. Prentice                      
Quetzal Computational Associates    
3200 Carlisle N.E., Albuquerque, NM   87104-3210; 505-889-4541
john@aquarius.unm.edu
From: WILLS@LSTC2VM.stortek.com (Cheyenne Wills)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Double rope technique
Date: 13 Apr 92 14:47:41 GMT
Organization: StorageTek SW Engineering

In article <1992Apr7.164712.29524@nas.nasa.gov>
eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya) writes:
 
>
>Bruce notes John's comments about twin rope (not double).
>
>I would suggest an individual biner for each rope if you have a situation
>where you need to use a single common piece.  This is more critical if
>you have to rotate a lot like getting up mixed terrain w/ some chimneys
>(facing one way one moment, then facing the other the next).
.............
>--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
>  Resident Cynic, Rock of Ages Home for Retired Hackers
>  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
>This is the Usenet: do you expect anything other than gross generalizations?
>Ref: Mathematics and Plausible Reasoning, vol. 1, G. Polya
 
With twin ropes, where the two ropes are being used as one rope, then
I believe that it is ok to keep both ropes clipped into the same biner.
When climbing with a twin rope, you are not going to have the situation
where one rope is going to be moving while the other is not.  Double
rope on the other hand is best to keep the ropes seperate.
 
Cheyenne
From: gea4@quads.uchicago.edu (gerardo enrique arnaez)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing trips from Chicago
Keywords: CHicago, climbing
Date: 14 Apr 92 00:51:41 GMT
Reply-To: gea4@midway.uchicago.edu
Distribution: rec
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations


	Is anyone planning to do any climbing who live around the chicago area?  I am a novice, but I am fairly certain that I can borrow climbing equipment from the local club ( they aren't climbing for a  while)

	Please let me know by e-mail.

				Thanx a lot,
				Gerardo E. Arnaez
 
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon)
Subject: Information Request on Ecuador Volcanoes
Originator: czichon@psyche
Organization: Texas Instruments
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 14:56:44 GMT


I'll be going to Ecuador on December 26th to climb volcanoes with a party from
the Dallas / Fort Worth metroplex.  We'll be down there for two weeks.  We'll
be doing Chimborazo (Whymper route) and most likely Cotopaxi.  I understand
that Cotopaxi is located in a first-rate national park.  Is the same true for
Chimborazo?  Also, since we'll be down there a while, what other volcanoe(s)
are a "must do" for climbers visiting Ecuador?  I've read the usual guide
books, but would like recommendations from climbers who have been there
recently (i.e., first-hand information).  Thanks.

Cary Czichon
czichon@csc.ti.com
From: AWaddington@acorn.co.uk (Andy Waddington)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: --- BAILING OFF --- (DONT LET ME DIE)
Date: 13 Apr 92 20:40:42 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Acorn Computers Ltd, Cambridge, England

ekp@mcnc.org (Edward Pavelchek) writes:

[context ommitted for brevity - sorry]

>>> 2.  fall.
>
>>He has already done this. How does this help him get to the ground safely
>>without leaving gear?
>
>Although others offered the same suggestion, I will defend it.
>Sport climbers frequently take 10-30' lead falls while working a route...
>If Travis can't leave gear and doesn't want to rap for it, what is
>another 3 -5 falls?  Get on the rock, unclip, downclimb until peel, yard
>up the rope, repeat. The falls will be shorter than those taken clipping
>in.  If he was climbing safely, then this retreat is safe.  I'm sure its
>not applicable to all routes, but on severe overhangs, it may well be
>the only way to clean the route.

I know he's getting the krab back for legal, rather than personal financial
reasons, but this still seems a bit extreme. For the sake of 1 karabiner,
he's going to trash his rope by repeatedly falling ? The falls may be
shorter than failing to make a clip on the ascent, but he's going to take
more low down, where the fall-factor is higher. And there must be one last
bolt, so the fall is a crater....

If the crag's small enough, then a rappel seems like the safest, cleanest
and cheapest solution. If its too big, then the suggested tricks with slings
which come back will do. Have you ever heard of a French caving device
called a "Decrocheur" ? You clip this to a bolt, hang your rope from it, and
abseil on the rope. You then pull a separate (thin) piece of cord attached
to the device, which makes it let go of the bolt. And this is the safe
version - there is a version which just lets go when you take the tension
off, so don't pause on any ledges ! I don't know if anyone sells these
things any more - but, unlikely as they may seem, they were used quite a lot
for abseiling on caving through-trips with minimal rope.

Repeated falls must weaken the bolts, too, which is antisocial...

Many happy retreats.      Andy.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Re: Double rope technique
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 92 16:47:12 GMT

Bruce notes John's comments about twin rope (not double).

I would suggest an individual biner for each rope if you have a situation
where you need to use a single common piece.  This is more critical if
you have to rotate a lot like getting up mixed terrain w/ some chimneys
(facing one way one moment, then facing the other the next).

It is also possible to use a Munter hitch with double rope, but you had
better have your double rope act together.  You are twice as likely to have
kinking problems.  Munter appears to be quite acceptable for leading,
but taking rope in on a following second appears "interesting" to say
the least.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Resident Cynic, Rock of Ages Home for Retired Hackers
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
This is the Usenet: do you expect anything other than gross generalizations?
Ref: Mathematics and Plausible Reasoning, vol. 1, G. Polya
From: gkuehn@coos.dartmouth.edu (Gary A. Kuehn)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Pittsburgh Gym or Bouldering
Date: 9 Apr 92 15:13:43 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
Originator: gkuehn@coos.dartmouth.edu

I will be in Pittsburgh for a long weekend meeting and was wondering if
there are any good bouldering places or gyms with climbing walls open to
the public?

Thanks in advance.  Gary

Z
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: merrill@scivax.stsci.edu
Subject: Re: clipper city gym--reopened!
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1992 14:14:29 GMT

Clipper City has reopened.  It turns out the the fire marshall was wrong!
Due to the fact that they did not have an industrial use permit, sprinklers
were not needed!  So they spent three days closed for nothing!!  I had a good
workout there yesterday.  

Clark B. Merrill
Space Telescope Science Institute
Baltimore, Maryland
merrill@stsci.edu
From: ekp@mcnc.org (Edward Pavelchek)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: --- BAILING OFF --- (DONT LET ME DIE)
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:44:53 GMT
Reply-To: ekp@mcnc.org (Edward Pavelchek)
Organization: Good place for a disclaimer

In article <106480180@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> j_elison@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Elison) writes:

>Geez, Travis asks a question and gets all kinds of crap.

>> 2.  fall.

>He has already done this.  How does this help him get to the ground safely
>without leaving gear?

Although others offered the same suggestion, I will defend it.
Sport climbers frequently
take 10-30 lead falls while working a route (in a day, or tons more).
If Travis can't leave gear and doesn't want to rap for it, what is
another 3 -5 falls?  Get on the rock, unclip, downclimb until peel, yard
up the rope, repeat. The falls will be shorter than those taken clipping
in.  If he was climbing safely, then this retreat is safe.  I'm sure its
not applicable to all routes, but on severe overhangs, it may well be
the only way to clean the route.


-- 
That is the land of lost content,       Ed Pavelchek   ekp@mcnc.org
  I see it shining plain,
The happy highways where I went
  And cannot come again               AE Housman
From: trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU (wayne trzyna)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Acclimatisation (wsa Re: Europe bound => The Matterhorn)
Date: 9 Apr 92 15:29:32 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Colorado State University, Computer Science Department

In article <17139@sophia.inria.fr> luong@sophia.inria.fr writes:
>
>Do you think seriously there is any difference between 3900m and 4200m ?

In terms of human difficulty, there is a bigger difference between 3900m
and 4200m then there is between 2900m and 3200m.  The higher you go,
that harder it is to go higher.

That last thousand feet can make a big difference.


-- 

-Wayne Trzyna
 trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: luong@naxos.inria.fr (Quang-Tuan Luong)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Ice tools (was Re: sore fingers and knuckles)
Keywords: technical ice tools,equipment post for those who care
Date: 6 Apr 92 08:40:40 GMT
Reply-To: luong@sophia.inria.fr
Organization: Inria Sofia Antipolis

In article <1992Apr6.005605.19953@fivegl.co.nz>, hugh@fivegl.co.nz (Hugh Grierson) writes:

|> Winter is fast approaching us (see address)

Lucky guy !

|> I don't own any gear, previously I've rented crampons and axe for easy snow
|> and ice walking and scrambling.

These objects are important in a montaineer's live. It is a good idea to own
a pair of crampons and an alround axe.

|> So, on the knuckle-bashing thread, what are the curved-shaft technical ice
|> tools like to use? 

They are controversed. Some climbers say there is no difference. Some climbers
have tried them once and are not convinced, but I guess it is in their case a
matter of habit. I personnaly use curved-shaft tools in both hands, and I am
happy with them:
- knuckle-bashing: no, it doesn't prevent, but limits a little. It is
  appreciable. However, it is no longer a major problem for me, since now 
  I can do precise touches.
- I find it easier to do the final wrist movement, and to hold them, as the 
 angle of the wrist is more natural.

|> could mail order a pair from France or elsewhere.  My likely choices are
|> the Simond Piranha, or the Charlet Moser Pulsar.  Simond has the advantage
|> of parts availability in NZ, Charlet Moser might also be available soon.
|> Any general or specific recommendations?

They are both good tools, sufficient to do the most difficult climbs.
The Pulsar is more widely used in France, perhaps
just because it is older and has been prooftested by a lot of climbers. 
I would say that the Pulsar is technically very good: excellent balance, 
excellent anchoring, quite easy to get it out. I rely entirely on it.
The drawbacks are the fixation system (you have to check it from time to
time, it is not very easy to change a blade), and the relative fragility of
the head, which is in zicral.
If you chose the Pulsar, buy the model where you can change the shaft. It
is a plus, and it doesn't cost much more, nor is it less reliable.

The Piranha is more recent and seem to have advantages: it is lighter, the
fixation system seems more reliable and convenient. I don't think that
technically speaking it is better than the Pulsar. You can also consider
the last curved-shafed Camp. It has a very good blade (probably the best in
icefall climbing) and fixation system. I think it is the most state-of-art one.


|> Hugh.

Tuan.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: ajei@watson.ibm.com (Ajei Gopal)
Subject: Climbing Gym/Wall: Westchester, NY City, North Jersey
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1992 18:50:26 GMT
Distribution: ny, nj
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Keywords: Climbing Gym/Wall?

Is there a climbing gym/wall in Westchester county or 
in North Jersey or in NY City (that is open to the public)?
Please e-mail any info.

Thanks,
ajei gopal
ajei@watson.ibm.com
From: hall@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Hal Lillywhite)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Mt. Hood - Climbing Info Request
Date: 6 Apr 92 15:11:34 GMT
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.

In article <106480183@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> ddj@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Doug Josephson) writes:
>I am looking for some information about climbing Mount Hood in Oregon...

>               I found one book (A Climbing Guide to Oregon, by N. Dodge)
>which has some info about the climb, but I would like to find some others, if
>anyone has any suggestions.

There's a fairly new book out by Jeff Thomas, sorry I don't remember
the title.  If author's name isn't enough email me and I will look
it up for you.


>Are crampons a necessity at this time of year?  I have Sherpa Snowshoes which
>have the 'fanged' Tucker bindings, and was wondering if I could use those.

Take crampons, any time of year on Mt. Hood.  It is possible the
snow may be soft enough you don't need them but I've seen the
descent route look like a high angle ice skating rink.  Snow shoes,
even with built in crampons are not enough.  I've had them turn into
"impromptu skis" on (fortunately short) slopes not nearly as steep
as the route off the summit.

>What are the snow and weather conditions typically like at the end of April?

I'm not sure there is any such thing as "typical" weather on Hood in
April.  It can be literally anything, all the way from sunbathing
conditions to nasty (almost artic) storms.  The worst accident in the
history of the mountain, the infamous Oregon Episcopal School
incident, happened during a bad storm in May.

This year the snow level is way down from normal.  Had you been here
a week ago you could have had nearly ideal conditions for a climb.
(We've been having an "El Nino" winter, very warm with low
precipitation.)  However this last weekend winter returned.
Yesterday only one climber was registered and he turned back because
of soft snow and avalanche danger.  We had a rescue exercise and
when I returned to the parking lot the road was clear so I took my
pickup out of 4-wheel drive.  An hour later after the critique I
found about 3 inches of fresh snow on the road.  I drove about half
a mile and put it back into 4-wheel drive, then saw 2 accidents on
the way down.

>General suggestions would also be appreciated.  Thanks in advance for 
>your help!

Be prepared for anything, including a possible decision to turn back
if wisdom so indicates.  Conditions here tend to be much wetter than
Colorado so be prepared for not only cold (you should have plenty of
experience with this in Colorado) but wet conditions.  Wearing
cotton while climbing on Hood is considered a bad "no-no," even when
weather is good.  It might snow, it might rain, maybe the sun will
even shine.  It might do all three within an hour.
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: eugene@wilbur.nas.nasa.gov (Eugene N. Miya)
Subject: Guidebooks once again Re: Review of ATC from BD
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 05:54:40 GMT

In article <TIMSC.92Apr15091350@boulder.cfsat.Honeywell.COM>
timsc@hwcae.honeywell.com writes:
>Why is it that guidebooks seem to be getting so lame these days?
>...the topos to the sport crags are pretty bad. 
>If someone bothers to go to all the trouble to publish a new guide why
>not do it right??
>I don't think the
>author did a great job with the topos.  It gets you to the climbs
>though and I guess that's what's important...

Sorry, vague posting.  What do you mean?
I think our expectations of a guide book depend on the first guide
we encounter.  The white Pinnacles guide and the first Climbers guides
to the Sierra were horrible because they were poorly organized:
Two adjacent peaks might be separated by 40-50 pages because one was
on one side of the crest, and the other was on the other side.
Geometry did not jib with the linear style of writing?
Useful data separated by many pages?  Or maybe you don't like written
descriptions?  That generation which grew up on "topos."  Or maybe you
don't like topos, and prefer written descriptions.  What constitutes lame?
What's doing it right?  Do you mean they leave things out like pro
or bolts?  Climbs over rated or under rated?

Rebuffat published a nice coffee table book for around Chamoix, too nice:
color plates, detailed description, the hard bound 50 Crowded Climbs:
too heavy, too nicely printed.  How many times have you ever taken a guide
book on climbs or copied pages just to avoid taking the guide.  Recently,
I did a route on North Dome.  On the first pitch's belay, I reached down
to find a folded up piece of paper.  It was another party's copy of
the topo!  Ha!  Early copies of Beckey's guide were too nice, too heavy
to carry.

My first Guidebook was Wilts.  I think he kind of did a nice job: photos
w/o route lines, next to photos with line, nice to associate details
(streaks, overhangs, etc. visible in photos, but not on any drawn topo).
Written description.  Not too detailed, just enough.  Or maybe enough by
my expectations.  Learned a lot about route finding with his book.
The first green printing of Roper (Yosemite) had a nice feature:
the pages were bound using screws: unscrew the pages, yank what you want,
then put them back.

I'm just unclear by what you mean.

--eugene miya, NASA Ames Research Center, eugene@orville.nas.nasa.gov
  Resident Cynic, Rock of Ages Home for Retired Hackers
  {uunet,mailrus,other gateways}!ames!eugene
This is the Usenet: do you expect anything other than gross generalizations?
Ref: Mathematics and Plausible Reasoning, vol. 1, G. Polya
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: sore fingers and knuckles
From: hugh@fivegl.co.nz (Hugh Grierson)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 00:56:05 GMT
Reply-To: hugh@fivegl.co.nz (Hugh Grierson)
 <1992Apr2.172028.19790@odin.corp.sgi.com> <1992Apr02.205517.33443@yuma.acns.colostate.edu>
Organization: Task Management Ltd, Auckland, New Zealand
Keywords: technical ice tools,equipment post for those who care

In article <1992Apr02.205517.33443@yuma.acns.colostate.edu> trzyna@CS.ColoState.EDU (wayne trzyna) writes:
>In article <1992Apr2.172028.19790@odin.corp.sgi.com> bruceb@roadrunner.denver.sgi.com (Bruce Bailey) writes:
>>
>>I've found that smashing my knuckles with a hammer makes them more
>>resistent to pain...
>
>Or spend the winter ice climbing.  (Same thing.)
>

Speaking of which...
Winter is fast approaching us (see address), and thoughts of ice climbing.
I don't own any gear, previously I've rented crampons and axe for easy snow
and ice walking and scrambling.  This winter I hope to do some more serious
gulley, face & maybe waterfall climbs (why not?)

So, on the knuckle-bashing thread, what are the curved-shaft technical ice
tools like to use?  Our local stores have only straight shafts left, but I
could mail order a pair from France or elsewhere.  My likely choices are
the Simond Piranha, or the Charlet Moser Pulsar.  Simond has the advantage
of parts availability in NZ, Charlet Moser might also be available soon.

Any general or specific recommendations?
Also, I have the mail order addresses in USA/Can posted recently - what
about some European ones...

Hugh.
-- 
-Hugh Grierson--hugh@fivegl.co.nz----------Go fast or go home----------------
-Task Management Ltd-Auckland-New Zealand-Ph:+64.9.5206109-Fax:+64.9.5206101-
From: ts24@prism.gatech.EDU (SHANDS,TIMOTHY G)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Climbing Rope Recommendations
Date: 16 Apr 92 21:49:38 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

I am a beginning climber and am interested (at present) in top rop climbing.  I
also am interested in vertical caving.  I would like to buy one rope which can 
be used for both sports.  The rope I am considering is by PMI and is a static 
rope with little stretch and pretty stiff.  I understand this rope is used 
frequently in caving.  Is this also a good rope for top rope climbing?  Is it
too stiff?  I do not intend to use it for lead climbing and, therefore, the 
low stretch and the lack of fall ratings isn't too important (I guess?).  Are 
there other ropes I should consider?  Is there some reason a static rope 
shouldn't be used for top rope climbing?  (P.S. This is my first post.)
-- 
SHANDS,TIMOTHY G
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!ts24
Internet: ts24@prism.gatech.edu
From: okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Newspaper preservation technique needed
Date: 13 Apr 92 17:02:34 GMT
Organization: Random, at best

lillyj@ohsu.edu (Jill Lilly) writes:
>If you are going to use any kind of glaze, there is something you should do
>to treat the piece of newspaper first. If you don't treat the back, it can 
>ruin the newspaper to put any kind of varnish or glaze on. Paint the _back_ 
>of the piece black...

...but practice on some scrap newspaper first.

   Depending on what kind of paint you use, it could bleed through and
mess things up.  Other than that, this sounds like a really good idea
to me.

   Any time you apply chemicals to something you want to preserve, it's
a good idea to test and practice the technique on something you don't
mind ruining.  This is true for staining furniture, treating fabric,
stripping paint, removing tarnish, removing wallpaper, or anything
else that has the remote possibility of making your finish worse than
when you started.  If you don't have a scrap to practice on, then use
some obscure corner of the object which isn't likely to get noticed if
you ruin it.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.misc
From: flowers@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Margot Flowers)
Subject: Re: Newspaper preservation technique
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 02:57:39 GMT

Here is another source for Wei T'o:
     Dick Blick Art Materials, 1-800-447-8192, 
     [they have stores in Henderson NV 702-451-7662, Falesburg IL
     309-343-6181, and Allentown PA 702-451-7662]

The 1992 catalog says (p. 149):
    New!  Wei T'o(R) Spray No. 10
    This spray is a non-aqueous de-acidification product for works of
    art on paper, extending the life of acid paper 2 to 4 times.  It
    first neutralizes the attacking acids, then deposits a safe,
    invisible chemical (dried milk-of-magnesia powder) to stop further
    destruction.  Easy-to-use and takes only seconds to dry.  Also
    great for documents and books. 
    item # 7744900, $18.50 each, $17.50 3/each