HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: summary: benchtop jointers: opinions wanted
Date: 30 Sep 92 18:20:49 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology



I posted a request for advice on whether to buy an AMT 5" jointer or
the Ryobi 6", and whether a benchtop jointer is the way to go for me,
being a weekend woodworker at most.  Some very helpful people supplied
me with a faq available from cs.rochester.edu.  On the basis of that
information, as well as the results of another posting on manufacturers'
use of "developed" to describe the HP of their motors (the AMT jointer
was listed as 7/8 developed HP), I didn't buy a benchtop jointer.  The
reasons were as follows:
	- too awkward when using boards much longer than 3', unless you
	make or buy table extensions - which, in that case, you're 
	then taking up as much or more space as a free-standing jointer,

	- cheaper construction, including only one table being 
	adjustable, less or no cast iron surfaces, two cutters instead
	of three, fair amount of play or slop in adjustments,

	- motor is very noisy and not really strong enough to do a
	good job on hardwood boards 5" or 6" wide,

	- lack of rabiting feature, important to me, and

	- price (at least price of Ryobi at $300-350) not much less
	than much better rated Jet or Grizzly models.

This is not to say that benchtop jointers should be avoided.  Many 
people raved about their Ryobies, despite the noise.  The Ryobi's RPMs
go up to 32000, resulting in a very smooth cut - most other jointers,
including free-standing, are 16-18000 RPMs.

If anyone cares, a local woodshop just started selling Jet tools and
got a price break on their first shipment, which they were passing on
to customers.  I bought a Jet 6" jointer for $395 plus tax.  Both
tables are adjustable, the induction motor is fairly quiet, and it looks
like it will last me quite a long time.  I'm glad I got this instead of
the Ryobi, although I don't think I would have been disappointed with
the Ryobi.  To each their own.

Again this list has come through.  Thanks very much to the many
helpful people out there.

-John Wack
From: geoff@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Geoff Caras)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta table saw for sale...
Summary: Flame, flame, flame
Date: 1 Oct 92 17:15:37 GMT
Distribution: ca

In article <1992Sep30.232647.25412@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
 Geoff Caras writes
 > For Sale:
 > Delta Tilting Arbor Saw with 52" Unifence....
 > The tilting arbor saw looks similar to the contractor's saw except
 > the entire table surface and wings are cast iron (HEAVY!)....
 > It has a 1.5 horse motor and is wired for 220...
 > I had a mobile base custom made for it by HTC ...
 > If the price is right I will throw in the blade that is on it now, an
 > 80 tooth carbide blade (very, very smooth)...
 > $1100.00 or best offer.

Bennett writes:
 
 I haven't seen this saw, so I can't comment directly on its value.
 For comparison purposes Delta's 10" Tilting Arbor cabinet saw,
 w/ cast iron wings and 52" Unifence is about $1220 new (out of state
 mail order including freight). The mobile base is $170.
 
 For the extra $290 you get:
 	1) A new machine with full warranty
 	2) 2 HP 220 volt motor
 	3) Magnetic starter
 	4) Fully enclosed base instead of an open stand
 	5) Angle stops adjustable from above the table top
 
 You do give up:
 	1) $290 ($120 if you don't need the mobile base)
 	2) The carbide blade (used)
 
 The cabinet saw also has T slots, I don't know if Mr. Caras' does or not.
 Again, I'm not flaming Mr. Caras, nor commenting on whether this is a
 good deal or not. I'm simply providing a point of reference.

***********************

Thank you bennett for completely undermining my post, if you read just
a little into it the price was 1100 or best offer. 

So thank you for your point of reference, do you read all the postings
and rebut them?  

I am willing to deal on the price of the saw, I have invested over $1800
into it you can always deal the price down, but not up. Get it?

Geoff Caras

igneous@netcom.com         voice - 408.475.8194              FAX - 408.475.8193
The Igneous Group          Software Project Management   Design   Documentation
                           1744 Foster Court     Santa Cruz, CA      95062-1741
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Tue, 29 Sep 1992 11:23:08 EDT
From:         "Robert J. Milevski" <milevski@PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject:      Makita Table Saw

I have had the Makita 2708 for about 6 or 7 years now.  It performs
well but definitely has understandable limitations.  You can't rip
sheet goods on it very well.  You have to fasten it to a stand to
make it stable.  The mitre gauge slot is non-standard to larger
tables slots so there is no interchangeability with other gauges.
And the bed/table top is small so you can't cut wood wider than 6 or
8" very easily or at all.  Of course many of these limitations can be
overcome by mounting the saw in some aftermarket saw table, like a
Rousseau, or building your own.  It is portable, however, and can be
hefted around easily, unless you have a bad back.  Otherwise, I am
pleased with the saw and only wish intermittently about the
advantages of a larger table saw, like the Makita 2711 or the Ryobi
folks have been talking about lately.

Robert

No disclaimers; no one cares here.
From: kimnach@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Date: 5 Oct 92 20:20:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: lims01.5OCT199215200977
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Oct2.163519.25316@informix.com>, davek@informix.com (David Kosenko) writes...
>In article <8090013@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason) writes:
>>I have a few general questions:
>>
>>1) Norm (NYWS) uses a combo phillips driver/countersink, apparently
>>    slipping the countersink over the hex phillips driver.  This is a
>>    really slick tool that I've looked for in my local stores to no
>>    avail.  Anyone have any ideas about where to get this?
> 
>ON a This Old House episode, Steve and Norm were in the NYW putting something
>or else together for the project, and Norm whipped out that little gadget.
>Steve says something along the lines of `that's pretty slick, where can I get
>one,' to which Norm explains that a fan of the show sent it to him, and that
>he hasn't seen one anywhere himself.  This was from an older season, so
>something similar may be on the market by now (I haven't seen one).
> 
>Dave
>-- 
>Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
>**************************************************************************
>The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
>						-E. Saliers

I believe that I've seen it in a recent issue of Woodworkers Supply of AZ.
I'll  check this out tonight.

Greg
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Another version:
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From: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Power Wet Sharpeners
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:11:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: wsl.1992Oct6.101100
Reply-To: gringort@wsl.dec.com (Joel Gringorten)
Organization: DEC Western Software Lab

I've been looking at the Makita wet power sharpening unit.
I like the long sliding guide.  It seems stable and well
built.  Is there anybody that's tried one of these machines 
that cares to comment on it?  I'm interested in using it for 
sharpening 6" jointer knives and 13" planer knives, as well
as chisels and plane blades.  I would hope to be able to sharpen
blades better than factory sharp by finishing with the finer grit
stone.  I currently hand sharpen my hand tools to incredible 
sharpness with water stones, and I hope to be able to do as well
or better with the power unit.

The blade guide on the Makita is about 15" long.  It comes with
a 1000 grit stone and you can get optional wheels in 60 and some
higher grit (6000?).  What I'm most concerned about is it's accuracy
in grinding long planer knives square.  Can you really do a good
job with one of these rigs?  Can you accurately and repeatably set the 
bevel angle?

If anyone has experience with other wet grinding systems, particularly
for sharpening jointer and planer knives, I'd love to hear about 
that as well.

thanks,
-joel
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: No more important safety rule than this.
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 23:51:53 GMT

With respect to hearing protection, especially for kids, try the earmuffs
from Peltor. I fly airplanes, which are also plenty loud enough to cause
hearing loss, and these are the only ones I have been able to get my 20
month old daughter to wear. I paid $16 at a pilot's shop right before a 
flight, but I am sure they can be had for less. I wear them in the wood-
shop. Very comfortable.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Subject: Re: shaper question
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 14:23:20 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.155322.1@smartstar.com>, mikey@smartstar.com writes:
|> 
|>   I have a simple question, thats been bugging me for several weeks now.  7
|> years ago I bought a DELTA LD (light duty) shaper with a 1/2 spindle.  I also
|> bought a stile and rail set and raised panel cutter.  The raised cutter is the
|> same as the Freud UC 210, actually I think it is the Freud but I am at work and
|> cant check, it does not have 4 wings like the new ones.  Anyway on to my
|> question.  The raised panel cutter came with 1/2 inch bushings and I used 
|> it A LOT in the past and did not use it for the last 2 years until a couple of 
|> weeks ago and now I have to use it some more.  And I am scared of it, whenever I
|> think of those 3 large carbide wings spinning around at 9000 RPM on that little
|> tiny spindle.  Is it really OK to use that cutter on this shaper or have I been
|> lucky it didn't break and cut me in half.  I know it came with the bushing 
|> which is why I started using it and I did use a lot in the past but now I 
|> guess I am older and more careful, I tend to use my shaper a lot for small work
|> and dont have a problem with that, its just this cutter and my next project 
|> that bothers me.  Any info would be greatly appreciated.
|> 
|
Mike, I have the same setup as you and I am certainly familiar with the sence of uncertainty you describe.  If I had it to do again I would buy a 3/4" shaper with a large table (I don't like the small table on the Delta LD), but I'm stuck with what I have.  I would suggest that you not be extremely aggressive when making raised panels in regards to feed speed and depth of cut.  If you notice chattering then you are probably at the point of causing spindle flextion.

If I read your message correctly and you have not used your cutters in 2 years I would examine the cutter very closely to ensure that the carbide has not been damaged or worse yet cracked.  The method that I am told to use is a "ring test".  I will describe what I have been told BUT I AM NOT AN EXPERT!

Hold the cutter at the center.  With a piece of hardwood strike the cutter gently (no to gently but don't kill it eaither).  You should hear the cutter "ring" if there is a "thud" then the carbide could be fratured.  Perhaps an illustrious member of this forum could help describe the procedure better.

Anyhow, point is a cutter coming off a shaft at 9000 RPM is probably not as bad as a hunk of carbide being propelled at you (fragments and all) at what ever speed 9000 RPM generates.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: New toy
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 21:37:50 GMT

I picked up a B&D 1/3 sheet finishing sander yesterday and did a little
work with it last night. I think it's well worth what I paid for it, and
thought I'd post unasked for impressions.

The unit has a merely adequate amount of power. This is not one you want
to put a lot of pressure on. With the sheet of paper supplied with the
unit, it put a nice finish on a belt-sanded fir 4x4 very rapidly. It's
an orbital sander (though it doesn't say so), but that's the only mode
of operation - you can't shift to straight line sanding.

It's nice and light, but it doesn't chatter around. Unlike most B&D tools,
it actually has a power cord (instead of the 6" cord usually supplied).
The clips which hold the paper on do the job well and it's very easy to
change paper (much easier than a Craftsman). According to the manual, it
has needle bearings, rather than the sleeves used in Craftsman sanders.

It also has a port on the back into which you can plug a vacuum cleaner
hose. This port connects to small holes in the foot. They supply a
paper puncturing tool with the sander. To use it, you put the paper on
the sander and press the unit against this tool, which punches holes
in the paper to match those in the foot. Once this is done, you can
hook up to a shop-vac, run the vac while you sand, and there's *no*
dust! I mean, it really works!

It's too early to tell about longevity, but B&D has always been good to
me about this. At $39.95 I think this is a steal.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If you take a dog which is starving and feed him
George Patterson -  | and make him prosperous, that dog will not bite
                    | you. This is the primary difference between a dog
                    | and a man.             Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous Questions...
Date: 2 Oct 92 16:35:19 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <8090013@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com> rer@hpfcdc.fc.hp.com (Rob Robason) writes:
>I have a few general questions:
>
>1) Norm (NYWS) uses a combo phillips driver/countersink, apparently
>    slipping the countersink over the hex phillips driver.  This is a
>    really slick tool that I've looked for in my local stores to no
>    avail.  Anyone have any ideas about where to get this?

ON a This Old House episode, Steve and Norm were in the NYW putting something
or else together for the project, and Norm whipped out that little gadget.
Steve says something along the lines of `that's pretty slick, where can I get
one,' to which Norm explains that a fan of the show sent it to him, and that
he hasn't seen one anywhere himself.  This was from an older season, so
something similar may be on the market by now (I haven't seen one).

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 5 Oct 1992 11:16:43 -0500
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: How do I bend an oak 4x4?
              3 Oct 1992 00:03:19 -0500 from <clewis@FERRET.OCUNIX.ON.CA>

>
>>>>I want to make two curved 4" diameter beams, 80" long. They will have a
>>>>smooth circular arc 4" high in the center relative to the ends. If I
>>>>could remember enough geometry I would tell you what the radius of the
>>>>bend was. I would like to use white oak. Any suggestions would be
>>>>welcome.
>
How about glueing multiple pieces of oak into the rough shape of the arc you
want and then cut it to exact dimensions on a band saw?  This seems a whole lot
easier than bending it and you wouldn't have much waste. It would be similar to
building and arc with regular construction bricks....does this make sense?


Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doug@DSG.Tandem.COM (Doug Bering)
Subject: Dust Collection Systems
Organization:  Tandem Computers
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 16:34:57 GMT

Over the last several months there have been discussions on shop vacuums, non-US made tools, and a host of other topics.  I've heard dust collectors mentioned a number of times, but with no real recommendations as to what's good, what's bad, who makes good ones, who doesn't, etc.

Well, I'm seriously looking for a dust collector for my shop and I'd like to hear what people recommend.  I followed the thread on home-made ones a few weeks ago with much interest.  For those of you with home-made units, what have you got and if you had it to do over again, what would you change?  For those of you with purchased systems, what do you like and dislike about your setup?  Is there a significant difference between US made collection systems and non-US systems?
Who's a good source for these systems and would you recommend buying from them?

I apologize if this has all been done before, but it ain't in the FAQ and I know there are some good (strong?) opinions out there.
							Doug B.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Re: Table Saws
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 20:42:45 GMT

In article <rdc00a.40.0@nmrdc1.nmrdc.nnmc.navy.mil> rdc00a@nmrdc1.nmrdc.nnmc.navy.mil (Kelly Pedersen) writes:
>Recently I asked for comments on the  Ryobi BT3000 table saw.  It
>seems the consensus of opinion is that (a) the Ryobi is possibly
>adequate for light work and (b) that the Delta Contractors saw is
>the way to go.  Thanks very much to the people who responded.  If
>anyone has anything else to add I would be glad to hear it.
>
>Kelly  

I had asked a similar question recently and got the same
response. However, my impression from other traffic is
that one should also consider the Grizzly saw (fogotten
the model) but the cost is significantly less than the
Delta. I'm still trying to decide which one so if there
are others with advice, I'd certainly be interested.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

I have a few general questions:

1) Norm (NYWS) uses a combo phillips driver/countersink, apparently
    slipping the countersink over the hex phillips driver.  This is a
    really slick tool that I've looked for in my local stores to no
    avail.  Anyone have any ideas about where to get this?

2) I have an older Craftsman Drill Press on which the worktable simply
    slides up and down on the column.  There is no crank for height
    adjustment.  I'd like to retrofit a crank to this without spending
    an arm and a leg.  Any suggestions?

3) What's the best (i.e.  value and quality) water based polyurethane
    for interior furniture use?

4) I have a 1/2" mortising attachment for my press but recently busted
    the tip off the bit.  Has anyone busted a 1/2" mortise chisel lately
    that would sell the bit cheap?

Rob Robason
robason@fc.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Update on removing cutters from collets
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 21:55:11 GMT

thomas@BAEPV3.NCSU.EDU writes
> It seems that the route to take is to insert the cutter _most_ of the
> way into the collet, but not till it bottoms out. 

One reason for this that hasn't yet been mentioned has to do with bits
whose cutting edges are a larger diameter than the shank. On roundover
bits, for instance, there is a fillet where the shank meets the meat of
the bit (the part that supports the carbide tips). You don't want the
collet tightening on this fillet - you want it on the straight part
of the shank.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
"And remember this - there's no more important safety rule than to wear
these: safety glasses."
From: tonyo@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM (Tony Ozrelic)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe sanding - avoiding sanding rings
Date: 1 Oct 92 21:57:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: master.3687
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Redmond,  OR.

In article <1992Sep28.152012.1776@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:
>In article <1992Sep28.121915.17741@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines) writes:
>>I've completed a couple of projects on a wood lathe; candle stands, lamps,
>>etc... It's always quite difficult to eliminate or avoid rings around the
>>object after sanding.  I use various grits, pressure, and speeds.  
>>Are there tricks that I'm missing, or will I always have to manually sand
>>the piece with the grain after I'm done with the lathe?

What works for me:

Keep the sanding pad in CONSTANT MOTION. If you leave it in one place, you
will get the rings you speak of. You must complete sanding with one type of
grit before going on to the nect finer grit. The grit series I use is:

80 grit (60 if really rough)
120
240
320
400
600 (if you want a shine without waxing)

These grits work for both hard and soft woods. Use cloth-backed grit, not
paper backing.

RPS should be in the 300 to 600 RPM range.

tony "weekend woodbutcher" o.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,rec.games.misc,rec.puzzles
From: chews@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (HCE)
Subject: Wooden "Puzzles"...
Followup-To: poster
Keywords: puzzle
Organization: Purdue University
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 19:48:43 GMT


Hello,

	I have a "puzzle" that my grandfather gave me which is a wood
sphere made up of a number of interlocking pieces.  You can take
it apart and you have about 10 pieces.  It is quite difficult to
then figure out how to put them all back together again.  
	I have looked for more puzzles of this kind, but have not
been able to find them anywhere.  I know another person who has
one (his is a cube), but I have never seen them for sale.  I would
really appriciate any suggestions on where to find such
puzzles.  They are really challenging and fun -- I hope someone
can help me.  
	Please respond by email, and I will summarize and post any
responses.  Thanks for any help!

				Steve Chew
				chews@mentor.cc.purdue.edu
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: shaper question
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:02:32 GMT
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Sep30.142320.19988@cliff.se.hou.compaq.com>,
stevep@lugh.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn) writes:

> Anyhow, point is a cutter coming off a shaft at 9000 RPM is probably
> not as bad as a hunk of carbide being propelled at you (fragments
> and all) at what ever speed 9000 RPM generates.

Unless my arithmetic is wrong, the outer edge of a 2 inch diameter
bit rotating at 9000 RPM is moving at about 53 MPH.

-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking