HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

In misc.consumers.house, barrett@terminus.gatech.edu (James Barrett) writes:

    My wife and I just moved into a house we are renting.  The previous
    tenants evidently had a problem with oil leaks in their car, because
    there is quite a bit of oil at the top of the driveway.  Is there
    any way to remove this or at least help stop it from being dragged into
    the house every time I forget and walk through it.

I remember you can get driveway cleaner from janitor supply store. 
However, any powder cloth detergent and water can be used to wash away
the oil easily especially when it is wet.

-- Charles
From: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Jacuzzi baths vs others?
Date: 11 Nov 92 17:59:55 GMT
Article-I.D.: donner.1992Nov11.175955.22335
Reply-To: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo

In article <sands-101192111506@90.10.20.76> sands@apple.com (Michael Sands) writes:
>We are remodeling and get an opportunity to add a jetted bath tub to our
>master bathroom.  Jacuzzi has a patent on their jets and charge a $800
>premium on their baths because the jets are better. 
>
>Is this true?  Are the jets really that much different?

I haven't used one, but the recesses for the jets look like they
would be a magnet for soap scum, gunk, and mildew. The also look
like they would be impossible to clean. Anyone know who's actually
used one?

Also I would be interested in knowing what the installation is likely
to run on one of these tubs. Do they require a separate electrical
circuit? I assume a GFCI is required. I'd also like to know how you
attach the drain when the house is on a slab.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas S. Rand)
Subject: Re: GFCI question
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 19:10:00 GMT

In article <10885@wrgate.wr.tek.com>, davidbu@loowit.wr.tek.com (David E. Buxton) writes:
|> 
|> My appologies to the net police if this has already been said.
|> 
|> While a GFCI will indeed protect outlets downstream, whether they be two
|> prong or three prong, a GFCI will not convert a two prong wiring system
|> into a three prong wiring system.  If you want to use three prong
|> outlets, that third prong must ultimately conduct back to earth ground
|> and do so independently of your white wire power return.  So, if you
|> don't have that third wire wired in your series of outlets, you can't change
|> your outlets to three prong outlets simply by adding a GFCI.  A GFCI
|> will make them two prong outlets safe, but it won't make em three pronged.

You are allowed to use outlets with a ground pin in this circumstance.  The
third "Prong" as you put it needn't conduct back to ground iff the outlet
is protected by a GFCI.  This is a specific exception in the NEC and as I 
understand it in the Canadian code as well.

-- 
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff)
Subject: Re: Price Pfister:  1 out of 20
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 17:26:38 GMT

In article <1992Nov5.165435.12840@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:

[Story about problem with Price-Pfister faucet]

I have had two Price-Pfiseter faucets. One had a part installed
backwards and did not work. The other leaked from day one at its base.
I'd certainly recommend another brand.


-- 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Doug Rudoff          Motorola, Seattle    INTERNET:rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com
                                            USENET:uunet!mdisea!rudoff   
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis)
Subject: Re: R-values
Organization: OSF Research Institute
	<1992Nov12.155202.17035@hubcap.clemson.edu>
	<1992Nov13.062141.2776@adobe.com>
	<1992Nov13.164122.18882@src.honeywell.com>
Date: 13 Nov 92 15:46:39

In article <1992Nov13.164122.18882@src.honeywell.com>
hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk) writes:

   ...I'll take a stab at why someone who's *really* pedantic... might
   maintain that you get less total R-value *and* less R-value per
   inch when you compress fiberglass....

[points out that glass is more conductive than air]

   ...So, the way I'd read this, if you compress fiberglass so there's
   no air left (that is, at the limit), it conducts more heat than if
   there were air in the cavity by a factor of 40 or so.  (_Note_
   _that_ _I'm_ _ignoring_ _convection_).

If you ignore convection, you're ignoring the primary mechanism by
which fiberglass insulation works!  This ought to be clear from the
fact that, by your calculation, NO insulation is best (because it
contains no glass, only air).  Perhaps this is your (tongue-in-cheek)
point?

	-s
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: better mouse trap needed
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 15:11:45 GMT


In article <122210036@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>, wlp@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Bill Pherigo) writes:
|>      My basement is overrun by mice.   I was able to catch 9 of them within
|> a week of their discovery with normal mouse traps baited with creamy Jiff
|> (Choosy mice chose Jiff!).  Natural selection has left me with mice that
|> can lick off the peanut butter without springing the trap, and thus crushing
|> their little furry skulls!  I'd like to hear about any other trap designs,
|> or any better baits, and, Oh, I DON'T WANT A CAT!!!
|> 
|> Bill

Did you try adjusting the trap to increase the sensitivity? Make it a hare
trigger and you will get them. Oh yea, I almost forgot! Get a piece of string
and impregnate it the jiff then tie it to the trigger of the trap and you
won't have any more problems with them stealing the bait!
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: sands@apple.com (Michael Sands)
Subject: Jacuzzi baths vs others?
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 19:18:40 GMT
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house

We are remodeling and get an opportunity to add a jetted bath tub to our
master bathroom.  Jacuzzi has a patent on their jets and charge a $800
premium on their baths because the jets are better. 

Is this true?  Are the jets really that much different?

Where should I buy, how much is reasonable, what should I look out for?

Thanks,

Michael
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: apetty@dsd.es.com (Annie Petty)
Subject: Re: Humidity in Bathroom
Reply-To: apetty@dsd.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, UT
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 20:29:44 GMT

In article <720851425snx@uumike.UUCP>, mikey@uumike.UUCP (Mike Couture) writes:
> I am having humidity problems in my bathroom.  I have a fan but we still
> have alot of humid air that is creating mildew on the ceiling.  Is there
> any paint or 'stuff' I can use to stop this mildew?
> 
> 

	I installed a tongue in groove cedar ceiling in
	my bath over the existing ceiling.  That was 7 years
	ago and it still looks great.  

	Annie
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: "Dan Corpron" <wk01158@worldlink.com>
Subject: House info mail server?
Organization: Timberline Software
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 23:54:44 GMT
X-Mailer: WORLDLink (3.11)

I remember using a mail server that had information about
houses (e.g. what to consider when you want to build).  I
lost track of the e-mail address and instructions on how
to use it.  Does anyone have any idea what I'm talking about?
If so, would you clue me in?

Thank you!
Dan
From: esc@ulysses.att.com (E. Steve Crandall)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Saunas
Date: 10 Nov 92 00:19:30 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill


I'm looking for info on sauna kits - mfg addresses, war stories, etc.

thanks for any leads

Steve Crandall
evan.crandall@att.com
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Subject: Re: wagner airless sprayer
Reply-To: davel@booboo.SanDiego.NCR.COM (David Lord)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 17:58:39 GMT

In article <gmVPTB1w164w@carrera.wvus.org> pete@carrera.wvus.org (Pete Gregory) writes:
>hi - i'm painting the interior of our 10-yr-old home... now that the walls
>are painted in some rooms, we're noticing that the acoustic ceilings really
>need to be painted as well.
. . .
>getting the airless sprayer sounds intriguing to me.  i could paint the 
>room quickly and with a lot less hassle than rolling it, and for a lot
>less $$$ than hiring a painter.  the paint shop guy says there is
>"practically no overspray" with this sprayer (i'd still drop-cloth
>*everything* and use a cardboard spray shield, since i've already painted
>the walls).

For once I got smart and had someone come out and spray the ceilings
before I painted the walls, that saved me some money because the painter
could spray without masking the walls. Also it made painting the top
edge of the walls easier since I was painting them nearly white.
Unfortunately it sounds like this is too late for you. A couple of
observations on the sprayer though:

The painter used an airless sprayer and put drop cloths over the carpet and
countertops. The tops of protrusions like door knobs and such ended
up speckled though they can be cleaned if you get to them before the
paint really has time to cure. Also plan on cleaning your windows and
mirrors soon after painting. Don't expect a cardboard spray shield to
completely protect the tops of your walls. My painter tried it in one
room and it didn't do too well, though I have used them myself 
(a big plastic one with a handle actually) with
some success outdoors where it didn't have to be quite so perfect.

If you are painting pure white over the old accoustic white (slightly grey)
count on putting on quite a bit of paint, at least a gallon per hundred
square feet. Needless to say, two light coats is better than one heavy
coat.

In my case spending the money for a pro to do the ceilings was well
worth while, just doing all the walls in a three bedroom house burned
me out even with a friend helping with much of it. Actually I still
have one small bedroom left to do, anyone want to volunteer to come
over and help? (-:
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Toilet leak...
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 19:28:01 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

hmoss@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Howard Moss) writes:

>   I have a toilet that leaks CLEAN water onto the floor after flushing.
>   The water collects in front and definitely is clean so I assume there
>   is a crack in the toilet along the path the water takes going from
>   the tank to the bowl. Is this repairable? Is there a simple sealer
>   that can stop the leak? Also, what is the average price of a new
>   toilet these days (ie. is the ROI on repairing worth the price of
>   a new, more efficient toilet)? 

Before looking for a crack to seal, you might want to look for 
condensation on the tank. If that turns out to be the problem, 
there are insulating inserts that absorb water slowly, so that
when you flush, it doesn't drain with the rest; it stays beside
the walls and cushions the temperature change when the fresh 
water comes in.

You might try painting some tinted soap, like dishwashing liquid,
around the base of the bowl to find out where the water is really
coming from.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bruno@cupid.enet.dec.com (Greg Bruno)
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Make it Most Appealing?
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Colorado Springs
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 15:08:30 GMT


In article <1992Nov11.153310.16613@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, sbrenner@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (scott.d.brenner) writes...
> 
>I'd like to hear from people who have sold a house and have tips and 
>suggestions on the things you did that made the most difference.
>... 
>Any other comments on selling a house would be appreciated.
> 

     Once you have the place clean and presentable, small things can add to
the "homey" impression the buyer wants to detect in your house.  Bake some
chocolate-chip cookies just before the buyer arrives (careful though, if they
burn, the effect will be worse than if you had done nothing).

     As phoney as this sounds, having a family member comfortably reading 
a book in front of the fireplace has a good effect.  People tend to be 
sappy about those "Norman Rockwell" images.

     Make sure no "evil scents" are present in the whole house.  We retain
memories of bad smells for a long time.  Hide those dirty socks in the hamper.

     I think you can get the picture.  It is all about the image.  You may 
want to check with a local agent to determine if you will get a return on
any investments you might make in improvements/repairs.

                                   Greg Bruno

--------------------------------------------------------------------
bruno@cupid.enet.dec.com                  "What sorcery is this?"    
--------------------------------------------------------------------
From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Sell House: How to Ma
Date: 12 Nov 1992 16:12:10 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 12NOV199208382849@nssdc.gsfc.nasa.gov, rusty@nssdc.gsfc.nasa.gov (Kenneth Hall) writes:
>
>     Final note for personal security, check each room in your home 
>for anything of high value or is breakable,

Or illegal.  When investigating apartments years ago, a landlord let me
in a tenant's apartment to check it out.  They guy had some really nice
marijuana plants in a hydroponic garden!


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: shannah@netcom.com (Teri Miller)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Foundation Concrete Erosion
Date: 9 Nov 92 23:18:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1992Nov9.231825.15172
Distribution: usa
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

In article <1dmfd6INN14u@agate.berkeley.edu> cnrdean@toxic.Berkeley.EDU writes:
>
>We have a 70-year old house with a basement.  A white-ish dust tends to
>build up on the foundation, and when I sweep it off, the foundation
>tends to "erode" a little bit.  Not enough to weaken the
>foundation.  But, considering that we use the basement as living space,
>it is not very desirable.
>
I've heard this called "spalling".  It's due to a problem with the mixture
of concrete used (limestone? I don't recall).

I believe it's a serious problem.  Over time, it can affect the integrity
of the foundation.  I am currently buying a house with this problem, and
I'm having a structural engineer come and take a look at it.

If you're curious to hear what the structural engineer had to say (he's
supposed to give me a written report) I'd be happy to tell you, if you'll
send me an email reminder at: tmiller@cisco.com.

Personally, I think it's well-worth the expense to have a structural
engineer look at it.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Foundation Concrete Erosion
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 19:13:47 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

shannah@netcom.com (Teri Miller) writes:

> In article <1dmfd6INN14u@agate.berkeley.edu> cnrdean@toxic.Berkeley.EDU write
> >
> >We have a 70-year old house with a basement.  A white-ish dust tends to
> >build up on the foundation, and when I sweep it off, the foundation
> >tends to "erode" a little bit.  Not enough to weaken the
> >foundation.  But, considering that we use the basement as living space,
> >it is not very desirable.
> >
> I've heard this called "spalling".  It's due to a problem with the mixture
> of concrete used (limestone? I don't recall).

Efflourescence, not spalling. Spalling is chips (up to a few inches
across) popping loose. It's due to moisture migrating through the
concrete, dissolving calcium compounds (calcium carbonate comes to
mind, but I'm not sure about that) and depositing them in crystalline
form when it evaporates. Makes pretty, feathery shapes, if allowed 
to keep growing.

A lot of them indicates a (relative) lot of moisture coming through
the wall.

> I believe it's a serious problem.  Over time, it can affect the integrity
> of the foundation.  I am currently buying a house with this problem, and
> I'm having a structural engineer come and take a look at it.

Over a century or so, it might make some difference in the strength
of the concrete. The solution is to stop the moisture migration, 
which is easiest done by sealing the wall with waterproof paint,
available at Home Depot and similar places.

> If you're curious to hear what the structural engineer had to say (he's
> supposed to give me a written report) I'd be happy to tell you, if you'll
> send me an email reminder at: tmiller@cisco.com.

Please post, if you think to. Professional opinions are generally
better than net.advice...

> Personally, I think it's well-worth the expense to have a structural
> engineer look at it.

Nice of you to do that for us. :-)

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: scholten@esseye.si.com (David Scholten)
Subject: RE: kirby vacuums
Organization: Smiths Industries
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:36:01 GMT


From article <1992Nov9.221533.8004@opencon.com>, by giand@opencon.com (Deepak S. Gianchandani):
> In article <1984@ncrsmg.DaytonOH.NCR.COM> jcoates@ncrsmg.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Jim D Coates) writes:
>>In article <199211030335.AA00480@tuna.wang.com> MANOJ.MUNJAL@OFFICE.WANG.COM
>>("Manoj Munjal") writes:
>>>Does any one has experience in using Kerby Vacuum Cleaners?
>>>It does a good job but is it worth the price they ask for?
>>>The salesman I am dealing with for Kerby Vacuum cleaner is asking
>>>for $1275.  How low they go?
>>>Are they comparable to Rainbow vacuum?
>>>
>>>Thanks for the information.
>>>
>>>Manoj Munjal
>>

[Dirt Devil deleted]

> 	From what I have used (and own), Electorlux, Hoover's, 
> and Regina's there is no comparision in cleaning ability to that of 
> the Kirby.  Longevity of the product is a second, but an important
> issue to me, (especially since I'm paying so much for a Vaccume Cleaner)
> but from what I hear from people on the net. with reference to this
> thread, I'm glad I bought one, which will last over 20 years.  
> Over time, not only does one save the money on the machine but also 
> the carpet maintainance is also reduced and the carpets will last 
> longer (this especially true for a homeowner) .
> 
> 

We made the mistake of letting one of the salesmen into our house for a
demo.  There is no doubt that they do a LOT better job than any other
vacuum I can buy at any discount store.  However, their initial price
to me was 1395.00.  I played some games with the salesman, of which he
ALWAYS had to call his supervisor about.  All in all, after he had left
(took 3 hours to do this demo, supposed to be < 1hr), his supervisor
called me a second time.  "We really know you want to own one.  My salesman
was so disappointed that you can't really afford one at this time.  And
he really needs you to buy one so he can win his free trip to Hawaii..."
"So I'm willing to offer it to you, today only, for 895.00."  I found
this really amusing.  A 500.00 drop in a matter of 4 hours.

Needless to say, I didn't buy.  But when my current sucker dies. I might
just consider them.

Dave Scholten


Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: Oil Furnace Trouble
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 14:50:02 GMT


I just scheduled my anual boiler check-up and they said DECEMBER 22 was
thier first opening! It doesn't matter to me because the boiler is only
1 yr. old. Anyways, to help you out, poor combustion will produce smoke/soot.
Usually this goes out the chimney until things start getting clogged up.
Once this happens the stuff will start backing up and go everywhere.
The boiler, flue, and chimney need to be inspected for buildup and the
burner adjusted. One thing to check right awat is to make sure the air
intake opening on the burner are free of dust or other obstructions. 

WARNING, keep a close watch on it and try to get them there sooner. Once
the stuff starts backing up the combustion degrades further and the 
whole thing can snowball. 

Do you have a service contract? The oil companies around here like to
fill the airwaves with anti gas heat comercials this time of year, what
they don't tell you is that gas boilers require virtually no maintanence,
where the oil ones need to be checked every year.
-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Painting Cabinets, Scotchguarding Furniture
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 92 23:13:58 GMT

In article <1992Nov6.191855.11703@aus.intel.com> patti@hosehead.intel.com writes:
>The cabinets in the condo that I'm buying are a really gross dark
>brown wood.  I'd like to make them either black or white, though I
>haven't decided which.  Is painting them the best way to go?  The
>cheapest way?  What kind of paint should I use?

It's the cheapest. Use any good enamel.

>How about cabinet refacing?

I don't know about the outfits out there, but a friend of mine checked into
this for her place this summer. Both quotes were over $1,600 for her condo.
The same outfits wanted over $3,000 for new cabinets. No new countertops,
just cabinets.

We bought Home Depot's middle of the line units and put in all new raised
panel oak cabinets with new countertops. It cost slightly more than $1,000
and took one experienced carpenter and one inexperienced helper about 13
hours to install.

In other words, in New Jersey, these outfits are rip-off artists.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
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                    | You can't find the answers in the bottom of a
George Patterson -  | whiskey glass, but if you look hard enough, you'll
                    | forget the questions.
                    |
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