HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: troj@cwis.unomaha.edu (Kevin Trojanowski)
Subject: Re: Oceanic tanks? ID, please..
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 22:39:04 GMT

01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:

>> I like the quality of the Oceanic tank and hoods. They seemed like they used
>>better material and workmanship on their tanks and stands.


>Per chance, could you give me an close estimate of how thick the glass is?

>I mean, I don't have a Cheezy Brand tanks to sit next to my tank to compare...:)
>                                      

>				          -Matt

My Oceanic 90 show (31" tall) is 7/16" thick fpr the sides; the bottom piece
is even thicker.

If I remeber correctly, the glass in my brother's Oceanic 70 is only about
1/16" thinner.


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Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8769 alt.aquaria:5747 sci.aquaria:1632
From: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: |F| Chalky water due to something! Help!
Followup-To: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
Date: 10 Nov 1992 22:54:59 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc., Mountain View, CA
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: assana@polkadot.Eng.Sun.COM (assana)
NNTP-Posting-Host: polkadot
Keywords: HELP!!

Hi All. I'm so deparate for your help!

Here's the situation:

About a 5 weeks ago, I got, what I thought to be, a bacteria bloom. 
The water is chalky/cloudy/hazey/kind'a foggy. Waited a couple of 
weeks, and when it didn't go away, did a few 25% water changes (+bottled 
bacteria afterwards); the problem got worst till finally one of the local 
fishstores told me my problem was excessive phosphate in the water, and 
that it won't hurt the fish, and that water changes will eventually get rid
of it; the water did indeed have a lot of phosphate. 

The fish didn't seem to mind it till today. Just now, I had a fatality among 
the guppies: he was fine till all of a sudden dropped dead! And the rest of 
them don't look too happy.

I've checked the amonia and the nitrite almost every day: they are both fine.

An observation: The water seems to be a bit better in the mornings, 
especially monday mornings after the light's been off during the entire weekend.

Can anyone help me with this??	

p.s. If it helps, I have a bunch of cardinal tetras, 3 mono, 2 clown loaches,
	  a sword tail a few guppies.
--
         ^-^
        /o o\
       ===^===   assana@polkadot.eng.sun.com
          -
From: mdkj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Plants and fish poop
Date: 12 Nov 92 20:54:39 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <1992Nov5.192733.9170@news2.cis.umn.edu>,
tnnguyen@tera.cs.umn.edu (Trung N. Nguyen) writes: 
> Does anybody have a tank with both fishes and lots of plant?  I have a
> 20H tank with some plants and about 10 fishes with an AquaClear 200.
> I have noticed that fishes' poop and other junk (dead leaves, etc.)
> tend to get stuck in the plants.  The filter does not seem to be able to
> pick these up.  Also I notice that the plants have a thin layer of green stringy
> algae on them (hornworts do not have much, mostly on bigger leaves plants).
> I think these algae help in making the junk stick onto the plants.  Anyway,
> the plants look pretty dirty from all this.  Yesterday, I have to remove
> all the hornwort and wash them and shake all the plants so that the junk
> get off.  Does anyone have this problem?  Is there a way to solve this?
> So far, I have tried to pills of bacteria to get rid of sludge.  Doesn't
> look like they are doing their jobs.
> 
> 				Trung
Well, it looks like you get buid-up of organic waste in your aquarium.  How big
are these ten fish of yours? If they are more than about 1 inch, that could
indeed cause that problem.  The only solution: change water more often (1/3
every week even...), or split up your fish over two tanks.
I have a 20H where I used to have the exact same problem, but since I started
changing more water, it got better very quickly.  If you get a nitrates test,
that will tell you the "scientific" answer right away...
Hope this helps,
John Opsomer
Cornell University
Ithaca, NY
opsomer@orie.cornell.edu
(607)257-2975
From: adong@galaxy.gov.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Tetracycline
Date: 12 Nov 92 14:05:09 -0800
Organization: BC Systems Corporation

In article <1992Nov08.093441.157789@zeus.calpoly.edu>, jmartine@zeus.calpoly.edu (Joe Martinez) writes:
> I noticed that the capsules look just like the Tetracycline capsules
> that I get at the pharmacy by prescription  that I take for acne.
> 
> Are they the same?

In most cases, the only caveat is that some prescription drugs may contain 
inert carriers which do not affect humans but may affect the aquarium.

> 
> Can I use the ones from the pharmacy for treating fish?  They're both 250mg.
> 

Yes you can as long you keep the above point in mind.  Tell the pharmacist
that you are buying the drug for veternary purposes and you won't have to
have a prescription and won't pay for dispensing fees and won't abuse the
intended use of the prescription.

Regards, Allan Dong
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wong@fraser.sfu.ca (Sam S. Wong)
Subject: (M)Blue Ribbon Eels, Pinnatus Batfish, Morish Idols.
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 23:56:30 GMT

I'm thinking about setting up a marine aquarium with a Morish Idol, some
tangs, and blue surgeons, a volitan lion, and a blue ribbon eel.  
Most of my concern is for the ribbon eel.  I've tried to raise one in the past
but have had poor luck feeding it.  I've tried dumping in dead goldfish 
during the night since the eel is nocturnal but always find that the eel did
not eat it.  The eel lasted about 6+ months before it died.  
 
Has anyone had any luck with these fish?  Can anyone offer any tips?

What about the Pinnatus batfish and the morish Idol?  I hear the Pinnatus
batfish are just about impossible to keep.  Are Morish Idols relatively easy
to keep alive?  What do the Batfish and Morish Idol eat?  Clams perhaps?
From: maz@Turing.ORG (Michael A. Zang)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Opinions on Ghost Fish?
Date: 12 Nov 92 20:22:22 GMT
Organization: The Turing Project, Charlottesville Virginia.


   Ghost will eat any small tetras i lost about half a dozen neons that	
way. The ghost has a reputation of being hard to keep but i've never
found it to be so. They so need a varied diet and most importantly they
need room to hide and feel secure. Being nocturnal they can get very 
stressed on a bright underfurnished tank.

                    Hope this helps,...Mike
From: kilpat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Andrew Kilpatrick)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Suggestions for New Life Forms?
Date: 9 Nov 92 17:29:42 GMT
Reply-To: kilpat@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Andrew Kilpatrick)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

I currently have a 20H tank with a pleco some neon and
longfin tetras, two cory cats and some mollies in it.
I have had a couple of different plants in it but they
didn't make it ( problem I am not to worried about,
probably light).

Anyway, what I am interested in is putting something
interesting, different, not a fish in my tank.  I have
tried an underwater frog.  But he "went away".  Specu-
lation is either he was eaten by the Striped Rapheal
Catfish I had at the time or another fish, or he broke
out.

I have also thought of putting one of those neat looking
blue crayfish in it but I don't want him feeding on my
fish.  Although if my mollies have another fry I may
consider something like that.

ANY suggestions would be appreciated.
From: infante@acpub.duke.edu (Andrew  Infante)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: What type of cichlid?
Date: 10 Nov 92 17:14:43 GMT
Organization: Duke University; Durham, N.C.

Hi all, I'm back again.

A couple of months ago I posted that I got a pair of cichlids known
as "acii" to the fish store people, but I have been unable to find any info
on this species.

I looked in a couple of books - specifically "Tanganyikan cichlids" and
another, but the books might be out of date (late 70's, early 80's).

These fish have yellow fins fading to white at the ends; at this age of
~4-5 months they colors range on the body from silver grey with 
irridescent blue to mostly blue-grey with more irridescence around the 
gill area.

The anal fin is faded yellow-white with a round yellow spot at the end.

Does anyone have advice on where to look for who these guys are?
Anyone know offhand what they are?

thanks.

andy.
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Do I need to be concerned about phosphaes?
Date: 6 Nov 92 21:24:07 GMT
Article-I.D.: ultra.1992Nov6.212407.8501
Distribution: usa
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1992Nov5.190637.25768@en.ecn.purdue.edu> wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack) writes:

-->After recently talking to some people at the water company, I found out they
-->add phosphates into the water.  Right now I cant remenber the concentration
-->they add (sorry).  I have seen different products to remove phosphates but
-->always thought that this was more of a concern for marine tanks.  Should this
-->be a concern of mine for my 20 gallon community tank?  I have some assorted
-->tetras, bala sharks, plecos, black molly.  

As long as you don't get a lot algae, don't worry.
In a freshwater tank, the easiest way to remove them is by adding plants.
-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Metal Halides In! [M][L]
From: mark@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Mark D. Collier)
Date: 11 Nov 92 15:21:15 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute

Well I got my metal halides lights in this weekend and my inverts are
loving it (I have two 250w lamps suspended about 14" off the water).
I do have a couple of questions however. First, I notice a slightly
yellow coloration that I did not see with my tritons. It is not too
bad, but definitely noticable, especially deep in the aquarium. It
might be that the water is a little grubby and the better lights just
accentuate the condition. I don't think that it is the lamps, because
the light they put out seems to be very "white". It is also possible
that the more industrial lamps I purchased do not have as good a CRI
as the lamps such as those sold by aquarium specialists like CoralLife.

Also, I hand wired my ballasts/capacitors and placed them in a little
plywood box (uncovered as of yet) which is under the tank. I want to
cover it so that my little girl can't open it and get zapped. However,
the ballasts run so hot that they can't be touched and I am afraid to
cover them. I will probably swipe a computer fan and set it up as
an exhaust. For those of you with DIY or purchased ballasts, are they
enclosed and if so, what is the enclosure made of and how is ventilation
provided.

Anyway, I ended up paying about $220 for my hood, counting lights,
fan AC/DC converters (the fans were free), wiring, reflective material,
and wood. I can send plans to anyone interested.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark D. Collier                      Southwest Research Institute
Senior Research Analyst              Automation and Data Systems Division
Voice: (512) 522-3437                Data Systems Department
FAX:   (512) 522-5499                Software Engineering Section
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy)
Subject: Re: Algae Blennies? (M)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 18:51:41 GMT
Organization: HP - Systems Technology Division
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

David Putzolu (putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu) wrote:
: Hello all. Just went by one of the local fish stores & they have
: a big shipment of fish that just came in. Included in the saltwater
: part were some "algae blennies". Light brown/rey colored blennies,
: 3" - 5" in length. I observed them eating brown hairlike algae
: from all over the tank, somewhat like a pl*co, but marine & much
: more actively. Can anyone tell me about these guys (nothing in
: my three fish books w/pictures could be found).

I believe that they are Salarius Fasciatus. I have seen them in several books.
If your books don't list them browse thru the books at your local fish store
next time you're there. I'm sure you'll see it somewhere.

: 
: 1) What temperature do they like? From their bland coloration I
:    would assume temperate. 

They do look like they would be from temperate waters don't they? They are
tropical tho' I can assure you. I've had one in my reef for at least a year 
and the temperature in the summertime gets in the 80's (gotta buy a chiller!).

: 2) What algaes do they eat? Will they harm my macroalgae?

For once the shopkeeper's word can be trusted (at least in my experience). My
algae blenny has not molested my macroalgae in the slightest. They are even
reported to eat the microalgae growing on macroalgae w/o harming it.

: 3) How well would they do in my reef-in-process? Would they harm
:    invertebrates, large or small? How about macroalgae?

I wouldn't be without mine. To my knowledge it has never harmed any of the 
inverts in the reef. He will occasionally perch on the Sarcophyton (which will
freak and pull all its polyps in) but that's about the extent of it. They tend
to be very shy but mine will now let me stare him in the face (so to speak)
without bolting. One of the things about them I really like is that they can
vary their coloration somewhat like a chameleon. One day they will be very red
and the next the red will be subdued and the brown/grey mottled coloration will
really stand out resulting in a high contrast "camo" look.

: 4) What is their diet once they eat all the algae available? Will
:    what I feed my other fish (formulae 1&2, nauplii, brine shrimp,
:    occasional varied worms, fresh seafood, etc) do the trick?

Until adding some clownfish a couple of months ago I've had a policy of not
feeding any of the fish in the reef. Despite that, the algae blenny has had
the roundest belly imaginable. It looks as if it's positively going to burst.
Even since I started feeding the clowns, he shows not the slightest interest
in any of the food I put in the tank. Now that the microalgae has been in 
decline for several months I wonder myself what he's going to subsist on.

: | David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu               |
: | Senior, CS & Psych, U.C. Davis    | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine)    |

Dave Sheehy
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:8803 alt.aquaria:5767
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Growing plants <F>
From: <UD005565@NDSUVM1.BITNET>
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 09:47:19 CST
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computer Network

     When I was a kid I use to visit a part-time fish store full-time
hobby. It was set up in a couple of green house and there was always
duck weed inches thick in all the tanks.The owner would always give me a
plastic bag filled with stuff. I would take home and put it in my unlit
aquariums in the basement. In a weeks time it was all dead.I didn't understand
the importance of light in a plants life.
     Later I put lights in my aquariums. I could keep a few species very
easily, but most didn't show any lavish growth even though I put the lights
on 24 hours a day.
     Now I've taken to making my on buffer for my tanks. I use a phosphate
buffer that has a pH of 7.0. Every once in awhile, I squirt in some of this
buffer and not only does the pH remain stable, but most of the plants
grow really well.
     Determine how much effort and exspense you want to spend on your plants
then put their needs down in order of decreasing importance and begin meeting
their needs.I not a plant expert so this list may be out of order and may
not be true for all plants, but generally I'd say the importance list is
something like light>food (nitrates, phosphates, potassium)>substrate>pH>
trace minerals. Keep in mind that algae and duckweed are plants and may start
thriving and choking out other plants. Also, stay away from extremmes,i.e.
24 hours of light, overfeeding of fish.
                                       Bill Martin
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com (K.C. Wong)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Fruit Fly medium
Keywords: mail order, fruit fly
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:42:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: pixel.1992Nov5.204213.1869
Reply-To: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.


Does anybody has the Carolina Biological Supply Co. phone number/address 
handy? I need to mail order a bag of fruit fly medium from them.


Thanks,

KC
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Golden Severums and Anglefish			
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1992 14:56:48 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

Hi, do golden severums and angelfish mix well?

Can anyone tell me more about golden severums?
Can they exist in a community tank?

Do the various different varieties of fresh water
angel fish grow to the same size as adults?

When I go to the fish store, I see some the angelfish have a few spots
in their fins.  The store owner says they are unimportant, that they are
not ick.  Any tips?

Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "jon simkins" <jon.simkins@canrem.com>
Subject: (m) venturi skimmer ???
Reply-To: "jon simkins" <jon.simkins@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 8 Nov 92 08:56:17 EST

I'm just getting into marine tanks and have a question about venturi
skimmers. net.consensus is that these are vastly more efficeint than
the columner skimmers. I'm not sure that I understand the difference
in operation. Could some knowledgeable person post some information about
operation, brands, costs, etc.? This would probably be good stuff for
general consumption.

---
  SLMR 2.1a  
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: Killing with Kindness
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 18:27:11 GMT

cliff (cliff@watson.ibm.com) wrote:
: I have a 110 gallon freshwater tropical tank and have been doing
: 20% water changes every week.  Someone told me that I should stop
: immeditately as I was overdoing it and could harm the fish.  Any tips?

Somebody was off their nut.  Assuming that you are either aging
or dechlorinating your tapwater before the water change, your
fish will love you for doing so much/many.  Even if you are not
dechlorinating, your fish are probably thrilled (depends a bit on
your local waterworks).

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - Geek Love

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: vchow@diana.cair.du.edu (VICTOR CHOW)
Subject: Green Water
Organization: University of Denver, Denver, Colorado
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 20:22:43 GMT

My water is green :-( !

So initially i bought one reagent to make the water clear.
Didn't solve.

Then, i bought the green water tablets.
It killed my plecostomus, due to algae starvation, i guess.

The shop told me that i probavly have suspended algae. And she recommended
to buy a diatom filter, which would plish the water making it clear.

Is this the only solutuion and can it work?

What you guys think? 


I have a 20 gal tank with artificial plants and some rocks, with
\2  butterfly ciclids or blue rams
1 angelfish
1 kribesis
1 transcriptus
1 yellow spotted pleco
1 honk kong pleco
1 striped rafael
7 blue neons
1 serpae tetra

Thanks for any help. Give me suggestions on how to solve my problem.

Victor

-- 
Victor Chow
vchow@diana.cair.du.edu
NCR Graphics chip design engineer - U. of Denver MBA
Any Brazilians out there?
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jkell@utkvx3.utk.edu (Kell, Jeffrey R)
Subject: (F) Strange pH, NH4, etc problems
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: University of Tennessee Computing Center
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:12:00 GMT

I have a relatively new (3 months) 20 gal tall tank that I'm having trouble
stabilizing.  During the initial cycling it was reasonably "by-the-book" with
ammonia and pH rising reaching a peak around pH 7.5 and NH4 4ppm.  Partial
water changes and some AmmoChips in the filter kept this in check until it 
was starting to stabilize around 7.0-7.2 and negligable ammonia where it 
stayed for about a week.  Then I really goofed by buying a pair of hypostamus
on sale at <inept-discount-store> and put them in the tank.  Two days later,
kaboom - ick - one dead hypostamus.  Ended up decimating my tank - 2 mollies,
a sword, 2 blackfin sharks among them.  I treated with Maracide for 5 days
and apparently cleared it up.  The chemistry didn't change much and the tank
held on.  Then, last week I find pH 6.2!  My tap supply is 7.2.  This was a
few days after a gravel cleaning/partial water change.  Fish dealer suggests
cleaning only half of gravel next time to the base, rather than cleaning all 
the surface gravel - says the surface cleaning just stirs up bacteria and they
end up "cannibalizing" themselves, raising the CO2 and subsequently pH.  Does
this make sense?  What's going on here?

PS - Nitrites were undetectable (virtually) except during initial cycling.

/Jeff/   jkell@utkvx.utk.edu, jeff@utcvm.utc.edu  
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: boggs@agps.lanl.gov (Marsha topgun/ne)
Subject: Filter media
Organization: A-10, LANL
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 20:37:40 GMT


I replaced my whisper 300 and ugf on my 55 freshwather tank with a 
ehiem canister filter.  What I need to know is how often to replace 
the filter media.  It came prepacked with a nylon net for coarse filtration, 
a HUGE bag of charcoal, and topped with floss.  How long is the charcoal
good for anyway? 1 month 2 months? I can't see the inside of the
filter to see how cruddy it is getting without disconnecting, so
is there a rule of thumb to go by?  

I also can't get over the amount of charcoal in this thing! The
whisper had only small amounts in the bio bags. 
Is this the best media to use, I notice ehiem has lots of different
medias to use. What are others in net.land using?


--Marsha
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     boggs@agps.lanl.gov (505) 665-6606
Los Alamos National Laboratory, P.O. Box 1663  MS J488  Los Alamos, NM 87545