HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sh09@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (STEVEN HIGGINS)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photographing the TV screen
Date: 7 Jan 93 15:29:29 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <lkn5fbINN1po@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu>, farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) wr
ites:
>Is it possible to get a descent picture of a tv screen with a focal
>plane shutter (Cannon FTb), or should I just give it up and use my
>Argus C-3 (a leaf shutter).

    Yup, use a shutter speed of 1/30 or slower and it will look ok.
>
>Does using Freeze Frame from a videotape make any difference?

    Freeze Frame can allow you to take pictures without blurring.  Just shoot
    at 1/30 or slower, and use a tripod.
    >
>What about holding the camera vertically?
>
    Nope.

>Thanks
>Susan
-- 

~Steve
sh09@lehigh.edu
From: rane+@cs.cmu.edu (Aaron Hughes)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Help with used Lecia camera features (Leica wannabe)
Date: 10 Jan 93 19:00:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C0nJH8.5qL.2
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

Here I was just a wastin' time pagin' through the lastest issue of
Shutterbug, when for no reason (probably the  terrible and incurable
"Let's-spend-money-we-don't-have" itch) I began looking at prices 
for used Lecia R4's,R5's and R-E's.  The R5's ranged from $695 to 
$1295 and the R4's from $450 to $750 - didn't see any R-E's. 

What I'm asking is, what are the basic features of these 3 cameras? 

Are they lacking anything major? 

What does the R5 have over the R4? 

Why the big price difference? 

Are all of them styled the same? 

In all the pictures I've seen, just about the only cosmetic difference 
I can see is the model number on the front of the body.

Are all the lenses that expensive? All the prices I saw put most of the 
lenses at or near the price of the camera? Are there any less expensive
alternatives that I could utilize without degrading the picture quality
substantially? I'd like to buy into the built-like-a-tank , smooth-as-silk
operation of the Leica's, but if I can't afford a even a few basic lenses,
I may as well pick up an Olympus OM-4/OM-4T.

Thanks.
-- 
Aaron Hughes        DoD#0482   		The Freedom Junkie	
rane+@pulsar.fac.cs.cmu.edu		Bad cop. No donut.
From: pucci@optilink.COM (Mike Pucci)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: In the dark about enlarger
Date: 12 Jan 93 01:15:50 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: DSC/Optilink Access Products

I considered this enlarger before I bought an inexpensive Besler 45. If I had
the money I would buy the Saunders for a couple of reasons. One, though the 
Besler has been around forever it has several limitations that the VXL tried
to correct. However I don't think the VXL chassis is very well put together.
The Saunder does the same thing as the VXL only better. The Head is counter 
balanced, so once it's unlocked it glides up or down very easily. The negative
holder fits into a slot and is held in place by a pressure plate from below. I
find this a much better approach than moving the lower bellows (Like the
Besler) I like the modular head. And I think it's better manufacturer than
either Besler product, and cheaper too. Last I checked the enlarger was 1200
including the color module. The Beseler VXL chassis only is 1000. Go cheap,
buy a used 45mx. If you are buying new and wanted a nice piece of equipment,
but the Saunders !
From: 6500gw@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Gary Wang)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: drying negative
Keywords: negative
Date: 8 Jan 93 04:29:07 GMT
Distribution: rec

Hi,

I am thinking about setting up a small dark   
room at home. I am a little worried about
dust while drying the negatives. I heard
that you could steam up your bath room and it
would be ok for a while ? Does that really work ?
Anyone has any suggestion ?

Thanks in advance,

Gary Wang (wang@nemesis.ece.ucsb.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rchao@well.sf.ca.us (Robert Chao)
Subject: Re: light meter problem - Nikon SLR
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 05:38:20 GMT

In article <C0M4yJ.81D@well.sf.ca.us> rchao@well.sf.ca.us (Robert Chao) writes:
>
>I have a problem with a Nikon FM which I haven't used in a while. The thing
>is that it keeps telling me there is too much light coming in. I was
>aiming at an outdoor scene and turned the aperture and shutter speed to
>all possible extremes and it still said there was too much light. The
>ASA is 200. (This meter has a "+","-", and normal LED.)
>
>Is there anything that might cause this except for, of course, a malfunction
>with the thing? I thought it might be the batteries but that didn't sound
>right.
>-- 
>Robert Chao
>Oakland, California


I forgot to mention that when I use the depth-of-field preview switch,
the light meter gives me a more reasonable estimate of whether there
is too much or too little light.
I am not sure if that is normal or not. Well thanks if you can help.
-- 
Robert Chao
Oakland, California
From: ez006212@hamlet.ucdavis.edu ( )
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: photo lab
Date: 12 Jan 93 17:01:00 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computing Services, UC Davis
Originator: ez006212@hamlet.ucdavis.edu

Can anyone recommend a good lab that does prints from slides?  Price is a
big consideration, so no Cibas.  (I'm look for mainly 8x10s.)  How about
Sunset lab of L.A., Calif?

Thanks for the info,
  tn
ez006212@othello.ucdavis.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: irving@Happy-Man.com (Irving_Wolfe)
Subject: Re: **Another NEW EOS??**
Reply-To: Irving_Wolfe@Happy-Man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 03:38:57 GMT

In <93006.191602IO80861@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> IO80861@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Damon Kiesow) writes:

>Has anyone heard any rumors about another new EOS model in the

The A2... are irrelevant; from what I gather, they have the same
flimsy construction as the 10s, etc., that would certainly be a
mistake for a pro, even if some careful but active amateurs can get
away with it.

It's quite a long time since the EOS-1, and it's far from
competitive either money-wise or feature-wise today, so a new pro
camera is actually quite likely.

I'm waiting for it; I have too big an investment in "L" lenses to
abandon Canon at this point, but their "consumer-grade" cameras
won't do it for me and they are too dishonest a company to live up
to their warranty.  The only reason I won't buy a "1" is that I
know for sure a new pro-level (sturdy) EOS has to come out soon.
-- 
 Irving_Wolfe@Happy-Man.com      Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x101
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399   fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.   NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20.  Send POSTAL addrs: Solid-Value@Happy-Man.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jake@bony1.bony.com (Jake Livni)
Subject: Re: Photographing people; need permission?
Organization: The Department of Redundancy Department
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 00:42:17 GMT

In article <1i78u0INNa08@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal) writes:

>There are also property rights - you can't use buildings like the
>Toronto Skydome for any reason except you photo album...

Are you serious?  If I shoot something as a tourist on vacation and
later find that it's such a great photo that I, say, make large prints
of it and sell a few, are you saying that this can cost me money?
What kind of structures in public places come under this category?
The Empire State Building?  The Eiffel Tower?  Niagara Falls?  Mount
Fuji? 

-- 
Jake Livni  jake@bony1.bony.com              10 years from now, George Bush will
American-Occupied New York                   have replaced Jimmy Carter as the
My opinions only - employer has no opinions. standard of a failed President.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: John Horn <jhorn@arco.com>
Subject: For Sale: 16mm Movie Projector
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A76F0F0760033331@horn.is.arco.com>
X-Xxdate: Tue, 5 Jan 93 18:10:15 GMT
Organization: ARCO Exploration & Production Technology
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 16:09:51 GMT

I have a Bell & Howell 16mm Sound movie projector for sale or trade.
It's in very good condition, but I haven't run any film through it.
Missing the take-up reel.

Will take $200, or consider trade for a medium format camera.

Please e-mail me if you are interested.

Thanks-
John Horn
Richardson, Texas
email:  jhorn@arco.com
From: kbb0@harvey.gte.com (Kevin Burke)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Sinar Questions
Date: 12 Jan 93 14:28:06 GMT

In article <1993Jan12.113649.19207@spectrum.xerox.com>, mcfarlan@aurigaxerox.com (Doug McFarland 73624 - UI Systems) writes:
> 
> 3. Any a1/f1 folks want to comment on what they like/dislike about
> these cameras.
> 

I beleive the a1 does not allow changing the bellows. If a bag bellows
might be required for your work, the f1 would allow it.

Regards, Kevin

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson)
Subject: Re: OTF Metering Inaccuracies
Organization: Swedish Institute of Computer Science, Kista
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 00:35:55 GMT

In article <5360842@hplsla.hp.com> barryg@hplsla.hp.com (Barry Gunn) writes:

>>>
>>> He noted, however, that there were three films which would require additional
>>> correction to the OTF metered reading:
[...]
>>----------
>I used to own an Olympus OM-4 and have read this on several occasions
>in different publications. No one mentions, however, that the camera
>will work just fine if you shoot in manual mode. Then you're using
>Off The Curtain metering and the films reflecivity (is that a word?)
>doesn't matter. 

Confusion reigns here, I believe.

The discussion was about TTL OTF flash metering. You can't do TTL
flash metering off the shutter curtain, for obvious reasons.

When not using a flash, and shooting in manual mode, you don't use the
metering cells that meter off the curtain or the film. The manual
metering cells are separate. (This is how it works on the OM-2, so the
OM-4 just could be different, but I don't think so).

The TTL AE system on OM-2 and OM-4 reads the light reflected from the
shutter curtain *and* off the film. It's just that when the shutter
speeds are low, most of the light will be metered reflected off the
film, and when the speeds are high most of the light will be metered
reflected off the curtain.
Since there is a pattern on the curtains which is biased to reflect
more light in the center, this means that you get center weighed
metering at high shutter speeds and simple (whatever it's called)
metering at low shutter speeds.
--
Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN
From: tonya@hpldsla.sid.hp.com (Tony Arnerich)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:27:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Help photographing in snow
Organization: HP Scientific Instruments Division - Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.photo

echo@ucscb.UCSC.EDU (Super U.S. citizen, super achiever . . .) writes:

> Hey.  I'm going up to Squaw this weekend to partake of the fresh snow.
> Since I'm going with some friends I haven't seen in a while and since
> they're both pretty good skiers, I've decided I'd like to take some
> action shots, such as from downhill as they hit moguls, around jumps,
> up above drops, and other cool things.
> 
> The reason I mention this is because I imagine the snow and ice might
> pose some odd problems for taking pictures.  If anybody has ever done
> this (obviously they have or else ski mags would be pretty dull :),
> could you give me few pointers, such as:
> 
> I'm assuming I should be over exposing by about a stop because of the
> reflective quality of ice and snow, right?  More?

With slide film I've always had excellent luck in making snow look like
snow (bright, believably white, with texture) by exposing such that the
snow is placed at 1 to 2 stops above medium grey.

> What's good film, ASA, any problems with equipment in cold weather (I
> have a Minolta X-700 with a couple of zoom lenses I plan to take).

If it's sunny, you already know from other action shooting. To get those
bits of snow frozen in the air, you'll need about 1/1000, which means
that medium to slorta fast film will get you there.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: Herman Hillebrand <hermanh@bio.vu.nl>
Subject: ricoh xr-2 button
X-Xxmessage-Id: <A771B217720150BE@mac190.bio.vu.nl>
X-Xxdate: Thu, 7 Jan 93 09: 10:31 GMT
Organization: Fac. Biology, Free University Amsterdam
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 09:10:36 GMT

Hi  netters,
I have recently bought a RICOH XR-2 body as an addition to my
Pentax system. There is a button on de camera I don't understand,
with the letters M.E. above it. The button is on the rear side.
Does anybody of you know what is does? Your help would be
appreciated.....
Herman Hillebrand, hermanh@bio.vu.nl
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Fashion Photography -- Going Pro
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 15:05:16 GMT

In article <352@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
>acs@csri.toronto.edu (Alvin Chia-Hua Shih) writes:
>Getting a good model is the single most difficult part.  (Unless you have
>a few thousand $$ to blow -- in that case, there are plenty of modeling
>agencies that will be happy to hear from you!)

   Take a class.  Studio classes are the cheapest way to shoot models.
Sometime you can find someone you can work well with, then you can
arrange to photograph her outside of class for some more $$ or other
arrangement such as exchange her time for photos.

>Pay attention to what things look like from her perspective, and make sure
>that she will have no reason to feel ill at ease.  This is actually important
>if you are going to get great pictures!

   Yes, it is extremely important for both you & the model to feel
completely comfortable with each other.

>I could go on and on about this, but just try to keep in mind that if you
>are going to be doing this, for pay or not, that it is important to be
>professional in behaviour.  So you are going to have to present yourself
>professionally when dealing with people you don't know.  Well, it helps,
>anyway!

   The first golden rule tought to me was you can look, but you can't
touch.  You can get to within inches of the model (if you are using
a macro lens), but you are never to touch a model.

>Film:
>	color:  I'm not going to recommend a color film right now.  Try
>	some Fujichrome 100D and some Ektachrome 64x and maybe some plain
>	Ektachrome 64 and Kodachrome 64.  Then tell me what you think!

   Kodachrome, yuk.

-Anthony
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: emartini@karoshi.Eng.Sun.COM (Edward William Martini)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Built a slave flash control?
Date: 4 Jan 93 20:39:37 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: karoshi


I'm looking for a simple schematic for a slave flash control.  I can't see
spending $20 for a Vivitar when I'm just going to use the insides anyway.

Any help would be appreciated,
Ed Martini
Video and Imaging Products	"I played Civil War golf, I went out in 61
Sun Microsystems		 and came back in 65"
Mountain View, CA					Henny Youngman
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ian@rats.demon.co.uk ("Ian A. Young")
Subject: Re: panoramic camera bogen vs widelux
Reply-To: ian@rats.demon.co.uk
Distribution: world
X-Mailer: cppnews $Revision: 1.20 $
Organization: not
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 13:53:50 +0000

In article <THOMASS.93Jan8124839@ko.ldgo.columbia.edu>
   thomass@lamont.ldgo.columbia.edu (thomas stocker) writes:

> I am looking for anyone who has experience with the
> Bogen Horizon 35mm panoramic camera. It is a Russian
> product and realtively new on the US market.
> 
> Does anybody know, from reading a review or personal
> experience, how this camera compares to the Widelux
> F8. An obvious advantage of the Bogen are more shutter
> speeds and aperture control. How e.g. is the mechanics ? 

You forgot "and the fact that it costs half the price" in its list of
advantages :-)

Although I've only peered at one of these "through the bars" as it were,
the following remarks culled from Adam Woolfitt's mini-review in BJP6882 might
be of interest:

   "three slow speeds (1/8, 1/4 and 1/2s) which are engaged by
   (literally) changing gear on top of the camera, and the 28mm
   lens is now very good, even at f/2.8"

   "Neatly packaged [...] polycarbonate bodyshell [...]"

   "[...] there three slow speeds yield immaculate exposures, with
   no trace of judder or banding"

   "the test camera overexposed across the entire range of speeds
   by about 1/2 stop --- not very serious, once I discovered it"

   "it is still hell to load and the shutter release is horrible,
   needing a firm jab to actuate it, while, just to be perverse,
   the mere weight of a cable release tends to fire it by mistake.
   [... more nasties deleted]"

   "If all that sounds as if I condemn the camera, you are completely
   wrong. [...] far better buy than the current Widelux and I have
   in fact bought the review model for my own use."

So, he seems to be saying that it is temperamental but capable of great
things in patient hands.

Good luck,

   -- Ian
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel)
Subject: $#@^$% JOBO Reels
Keywords: JOBO
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 00:13:35 GMT


I've finally started to use the JOBO CPE-2
 (two-speed version) processor I inherited
 with this job.  Two or three batches later,
 I am ready to stop using it period.  The problem
 is the reels.

The CPE-2 came as a "starter kit"; do they ship
 *extremely* cheap reels with such kits?  The
 ones I have are flimsy white plastic, and I have
 *yet* to get one loaded without snagging the
 film (35mm).  One night it took nearly 20 minutes
 to load only four reels!!!

I am used to the Patterson plastic reels, which, according
 to metal reel people, are atrocious.  But I have no
 problems with them.  These JOBO reels, on the other hand...

So, can I use some better type of reel?  Or is it just me,
 and I don't understand how to use the things?  I
 really cannot imagine the JOBO users on the net putting
 up with these things if they are really as bad as I find
 them to be!

Signed,
One Frustrated Reel Roller
(a.k.a. Rodney Gitzel)
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: How to mix Kodak Flexicolor C-41 Chemistry?
Date: 10 Jan 93 18:26:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

gerry@dvorak.amd.com (Gerard McKee) writes:
: 
: Does anyone know the proportions to mix Kodak Flexicolor C-41 Chemistry?
: I bought the concentrates to mix 1 Gallon of each solution, but I want to
: only mix 1 Quart at a time.

From Kodak Current Information Summary CIS-49, dated March 1991:

		[  Starting Water ]	[Concentrates, ml]
Chemical	Temp		Amt	  A	  B	C
------------------------------------------------------------
Developer	 80- 90		750	 73.6	  6.5	8.91
Bleach II	100-110		350	188.0	348.0	----
Fixer		 80- 90		650	200.0	------	----
Stabilizer	 70- 80		800	 15.6	  1.20  ----

For each, start out with water, Amt, in milliliters, from column 2, at
Temp in degrees F.  Add the concentrates (milliliters) in order, stirring
them in one at a time.  Then add water to make 1 liter.
-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jacobson@cello.hpl.hp.com (David Jacobson)
Subject: Re: "Unmatched" filter coatings: new sales-droidism??
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 23:18:00 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories

In article <93008.135326AFECU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Aron Eisenpress <AFECU@CUNYVM.BITNET> writes:
>I've got some
>information that came with a Tiffen catalog I got a few years ago, and
>among other things (on how they make their filters) it says:
>
>     "The TIFFEN View On Multi-coated Filters
>      ---------------------------------------
>
>   After extensive research, Tiffen has found no significant advantage to
>multi-coated filters.  Tiffen has determined:
>   o  Multi-coated filters have no significant effect on picture taking.

Can't say one way or the other.

>   o  Multi-coated filters, when used with multi-coated lenses, may change
>      the spectral values of your lens and alter color response of your film.

Why would the combination of the two be important?  I do know that
when I look at the reflection in a Vivitar uncoated filter (sorry, I
don't own any Tiffens) it looks quite bright.  When I look at the
reflection in a Hoya (coated) filter, it is very very deep emerald
green.  Since there is essentially no loss in the coating, the
reflection is light subtracted from the image.  Clearly a white
reflection won't change the color, but similarly a reflection that is
super dim can't subtract out enough light to make a difference.

>   o  Multi-coated filters are very difficult to clean, often damaging their
>      coatings when pressure is used to clean them.

True.  In fact, Hoya basically says "don't clean it".  But I clean
mine anyway.

>   o  Multi-coated filters are priced higher than uncoated filters.

Very true.

>   o  Multi-coated filters are not really multi-coated, they are only two
>      layers coated to a visual color and not to a spectral curve.

I can't say.  Could someone define "visual color" and "spectral curve"?

>   In view of the above information, Tiffen has chosen not to manufacture
>multi-coated filters."

  -- David Jacobson
From: parsons1@applelink.apple.COM (Don Parsons)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: What is a standard method to test a len?
Date: 6 Jan 93 22:47:26 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Apple Computer, Inc.

In article <C03qCG.K7D@ccu.umanitoba.ca>, mtfirst@ccu.umanitoba.ca
(Mount-first Yat Fung Ng) wrote:
> 
> 	Can anyone tell me whether there is any standard method to test
> a len (zoom or otherwise)? There are reports in magazines about 
> different lens. Does anybody knows how they did these tests? Or 
> may be someone can direct me to the issue(s) of magazine(s) that 
> describe(s) the procedure of the test that they are using.

This question, and similar ones, come up frequently on rec.photo. Maybe a
qualified individual could write something up to be included in one of the
FAQs that are periodically posted to rec.photo.

Just a suggestion. :)

Don Parsons

PS: I would be happy to do it myself, but I know enough about it to know
that I am not qualified.
Newsgroups: rec.photo