HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed)
Subject: Need x-stitch hints
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 08:48:06 EST

 Greetings, netfolks. I've just recently started doing counted x-stitch,
and though I love the effect, am finding it somewhat complex. I would love to
hear from experienced x-stitchers, either through email or here, and will
summarize, on good techniques for making it easier. Specifically:

* How do you deal with patterns that need a stitch or three of a color in 
widely varied places? Do you try to do all of one color in a fairly diverse
area at one time? Do you use short threads and just do two or three stitches
and then end off? Do you leave long ends of various colors hanging behind
the work so you can continue it? 

* Do you work in straight rows across the pattern, in one direction, or do you
follow the design sections, working on various sections as you get to that
color?

* Do you have techniques to make it easier to find your spot on the pattern?
Do you copy and magnify it? Do you recommend magnifying bars, pattern holders,
etc? Do you mark up the pattern as you go?

* Is it possible to clean the face of the work when you finish, as I note it
can sometimes get a bit dirty.

* What kind of needles do your recommend? Do you ever put the fabric in a hoop,
or do you just rely on its stiffness to hold it while you work? Or do you
put it in a frame? What kind of frame, or whatever, do you recommend?

* What treatment do you give the work when it is done, as far as cleaning,
blocking, mounting, etc? Should it be put in a frame with or without glass?
How about mounting works in embroidery hoops and hanging them? Should I 
glue it to the hoop to hold it permanently?

* How old is counted x-stitch as a craft? Is it fairly recent? If not, how
did long-ago stitchers do things? What fabrics did they use, what did they
do with their finished pieces, etc? Was it used on clothing and household
items?                                        

* What about using metallic filaments? The piece I am doing calls for extensive
bordering in "Balnik Kreiger" (spelling) metallic filament, and the stuff is
devilish to work with. How should I take off the 3 strands from the spool,
piece them together, thread the needle, keep them smooth? Are there any 
substitutes you've found that are sufficiently shiny and easier to work with,
to give similar effects?                

* Do you knot the threads on the back, or rely on weaving it in under other
threads?

* What books are good for providing info on techniques, such as in the questions
above?

Thanks for your patience, I'm looking forward to learning more about this
lovely craft!

From: lisa@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Lisa Kent)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 23:22:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Scratcy wool (was: Knitted Acrylic Baby Afghan)
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles

Just a quick follow up to my original post: Knitted Acrylic Baby
Afghan.  I decided to go ahead and finish the afghan.  Thank you
so much for all of the great responses and suggestions I received.
It always gives me such a great feeling when so many people are so
kind to help.  This is a terrific forum.

I decided to finish it because of 3 reasons:
1)being easily machine washable seemed sensible for a baby item
2)acrylic causing no allergic reactions
3)a close friend of mine just told me she's pregnant so I'm now
  motivated and excited to finish this afghan for her

Thanks again for all your help and support,
Lisa Kent
From: chf@maserati.lcs.mit.edu (Christine H. Flood)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Question about buying a loom
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:27:44 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: MIT Lab for Computer Science, Cambridge, MA



I've just finished a beginning four harness weaving class.  I enjoyed it
 a lot and am now taking a weaving structures class.  I've decided it is
time to invest in a floor loom and I'm trying to figure out what I need
vs what I want.  I'm convinced that I really do want 8 harnesses, and
at least 10 treadles.  I'm debating about width.  My inclination is to go with
the Harrisville 50" loom because that gives me enough width to do blankets,
shawls etc.  It also comes in a kit which I think would be fun to put together
and saves me some money.  The down side is that it takes up a lot of room
and would be difficult to get through some of our doorways.  We are renting
so I'll definitely have to move it in the next year or two.

My weaving instructor says that 36" width is the most popular
and has the highest resale value.  I would think that a folding
loom such as the schacht mighty wolf would be easier to deal with
and easier to sell.  I'm just leary about the width of the cloth.
If I was weaving something that has a lot of shrinkage (say basketweave)
then I would only get about 18" wide of finished fabric.  That seems
kind of impractical.

I'm also looking at the shacht nonfolding looms, the 45" looks nice,
but it is kind of expensive.  The good things about the schact are that
it folds up narrower than the harrisville and I can get 12 treadles instead
of 10.

So my questions for all of you weavers out there is: 

How wide is your loom?

How wide are most of your projects?

If you could get a wider loom would you?

Is there some other brand of loom that I should look at?

Have you had much success with making double width fabric
for blankets etc? (doubleweave techniques)

Would the two extra treadles be useful to you?

Thanks in advance,

Christine
p.s.  When I made a list of the things I most wanted to weave.  Shawls and
blankets were at the top.
From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Comforter cover ?
Date: 26 Jan 93 04:38:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: kcbbs.1029325.16734.11370
Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand

uudot@godot.lerc.nasa.gov (Dot Carney) writes:   
>keep the comforter from sliding down in a lump to the  
>bottom of the zip-bag.  You can email me your advices.  
  
I use covers on my duvet (changed regularly, I know it _should_ be  
weekly but somehow it gets to be fortnightly (I cheat by just turning it  
over after a week!) and have never had any problems at all with the  
cover slipping down to the bottom. All of my covers have domes along the  
bottom not zips but that shouldn't make a difference (should it?).  
  
   
  ---------------------------------------------------------------------  
 | PLEASE READ THIS----As I must pay for every byte of email received  |  
 | please do NOT quote my own message back to me. pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz |  
  ---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Marina.Salume@corp.sun.com (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: publishing quilt design
Date: 26 Jan 1993 20:12:32 -0500
Organization: Cornell University

 
>This is:  kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu
>My mother has designed the most wonderful quilt, and is interested in
>entering it in contests, and in publishing the design.  It is a 
>Japanese Motif inspired design.  Does anyone have information that could
>help her, or know where I could look?
>Thanks so much--
>--Ken

If you can get really excellent photos taken of it, you can send
those to any of the quilt magazines and hope they will publish it.
Your mother will also have to draw up complete diagrams and instructions.
The magazines will pay between $50- $100 or so, depending on the number
of photos, etc. They will usually ask you to assign all rights so you
can't also publish the pattern and sell it yourself, tho.

Contests--you need excellent slides to enter most contests. I don't know
of any database of quilt contests, tho. I just find out about them by
reading the quilt magazine calendars (like Quilters Newsletter).

--marina
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: jbyrd@chpc.utexas.edu (Jan Byrd)
Subject: 14-mesh plastic canvas?
Organization: Center for High Performance Computing, Univ. of Texas System
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 17:10:14 GMT

Does anyone know where I could get 14-mesh plastic canvas?  The 7-mesh
is all over, and I'm able to find 10-mesh at a few of those places, but 
none of them carry 14-mesh.  

Jan
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Scratcy wool (was: Knitted Acrylic Baby Afghan)
Date: 26 Jan 1993 16:52:51 GMT
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
NNTP-Posting-Host: tdis.icpsr.umich.edu

In article <1993Jan25.012901.16803@cs.yale.edu> judi@laplace.csb.yale.edu (Judith S. Janette) writes:
>
>
>Just a nota about wool and the "scratch factor"...
>
>Different types of wool have different "scratch indexes" (for lack of a  
>better pseudo-scientific term). That's because different kinds of sheep  
>have different lengths and textures of wool. From short-haired,  
>coarse-coated Icelandic sheep comes scratchy, warm, water-resistant yarn.  
>Merino yarn on the other hand, is made from longer and silkier-haired  
>sheep. Kid mohair, again, is made from a long and soft-haired beast. 

Judi is exactly right that wool is not wool is not wool.  However,
if Judi will forgive me for picking nits --

Icelandic sheep are double-coated.  They have soft short fibers and long
hairy fibers.  Icelandic yarn is generally made of BOTH fibers, and so
includes the scratchy hairy fibers.  I believe the undercoat is quite
soft and not scratchy.

Merino wool is quite SHORT in staple length, but the individual fibers
are very uniform and VERY fine.  Luster is not one of its qualities.

Kid mohair is from the very young goats, IS shiny (lustrous), and is
about 3" or so in staple length (which is sort of average -- LONG wool
from Lincoln sheep, say, can be 8" long or even more).

VERY generally speaking, the shorter fibers are softer, and the longer 
ones are coarser (more hair-like).  One interesting aspect of this is
that there is no "best wool".  The question must always be asked "best
for what?".  The best wool for a baby sweater would make a lousy rug....

In addition to differences between sheep breeds, spinners talk about
"hand".  This is "how nice THIS fleece feels to your
skin".  A fine fleece can have a not-so-nice "hand",
and a "coarser" or "stronger" fleece can have a very nice "hand".  So
this is just one more complicating factor.

Yet another factor is processing.  Much of the processing that commercial
wool is subjected to is very harsh and has a permanent and harmful
effect on the wool....

Another aspect to the comfort factor of fibers is absorbency.  I find
that though plastic fibers may initially feel nice, I'm inevitably 
less comfortable in them.  I feel sweatier and damper.  Just my two cents....
From: rlw@fafner (Richard Wexelblat)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Virginia machine knitters group info
Date: 21 Jan 1993 17:23:05 GMT
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, VA
NNTP-Posting-Host: fafner.ida.org
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]


The Northern Virginia Machine Knitters Club meets monthly at the
Lincolnia Senior Center in the Landmark area of Alexandria/Fairfax
County.  For more information call Renda Kidwell at 703 978 7383 

--
--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
  The poets were not alone in sponsoring myths.  Long before them cities
  and law makers had found them to be a useful expedient.... They needed
  to control the people by superstitious fears, and these cannot be
  aroused without myths and marvels. -Strabo (1st Century bce)
From: Holly.Doyne@f172.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Holly Doyne)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: plaited rib
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 07:14:02 -0500

In a msg on <Jan 22 14:54>, Jill McAllister of 1:109/401 writes:

 JM> it.  Instead of sticking your righthand needle through the 
 JM> front of the loop, you stick it through the back (pictures 
 JM> are the only real way to understand this), and then you wrap 
 JM> your yarn around the needle in the opposite direction from 
 JM> the way you usually do; and this is for both the knits and 
 JM> the purls.  Then on the even-numbered rows, you knit and purl 
 JM> as you normally do.  Well, round 1 (on circular needles) took 
 JM> me AN HOUR!  I couldn't believe it!  (I'm not a very fast 

I've done it - does look very nice - and took me a while to get the rhythm -
just can't do it on auto pilot. found carrying the yarn in my left hand rather
than in the right also speeded up the process.

There is also twisted rib - which is just knit through the back loop - evey row
- without the reverse wrap.  makes a lovely rib without slowing down as much.

                       - Holly
From: slvst2+@pitt.edu (Shannon L Vanhemert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Painting T-shirt with acrylics
Date: 28 Jan 93 05:47:46 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh
Originator: slvst2@unixd3.cis.pitt.edu

I want to paint a specialized personal T-shirt for a friend, but I don't
want to spend a lot of money on special fabric paints.  I have a boxful of
acrylic paints from my art classes.  The design I have in mind is not
difficult and won't require dabs of color here and there.  Is painting on
T-shirts with acrylic recommended?  Will it wash or flake off in the
washing machine or the dryer?  I don't want him to have to take it to the
dry cleaners every time.  Does it matter if the T-shirt is 100% cotton or
should it be a blend?

Any tips are welcome.  Thanks

Shannon VanHemert
senti@lis.pitt.edu
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Cross Stitch Email ??
Date: 24 Jan 93 08:47:00 GMT
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker)
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591


     On 21 Jan 1993 19:44:24 GMT kroy@twolf5.ee.washington.edu
       (Kalapi Roy) wrote:

KR.If anyone has the information regarding how to obtain a copy of the Cross Sti
KR. program
KR.for Macintosh, I would appreciate if he/she can send me mail about that. Sorr
KR.I missed
KR. out the first
KR.portion of the discussion on this topic.

I have been trying to get a demo of Stitch-It for the Mac, but I keep
getting copies with errors in one or more files.  I have asked the
author for a new copy, and will put it in the Fibernet (218-583-4337,
8N1, 1200-14400) files area as son as I get it.  I will try to remember
to post a message here when I get a good copy.

Ron Parker
ron.parker%uttsbbs%boo@pacbell.com
---
 . QWiKerNet 0.69 . Fibernet BBS Henning, Mn 218-583-4337
                                                      
----
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| The Transfer Station BBS (510) 837-4610 & 837-5591 (V.32bis both lines)|
| Danville, California, USA. 400+ MB Files & FREE public Internet Access |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: JBrandt@AAA.Uoregon.EDU (Pegasus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: tablet/card weaving
Date: 27 Jan 93 17:26:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: fp1-dial.JBrandt-270193092952
Followup-To: rec.crafts.textiles
Distribution: world
Organization: The Polyhedron Group
NNTP-Posting-Host: fp1-dialin-2.uoregon.edu

If you do tablet/card weaving and would like to see Peter Collingwood's
	.The Techniques of Tablet Weaving. Watson-Guptill, 1982, republishedf
please write to:Marilyn Trueblood, Editor
  	University of Washington Press
  	Box 50096
	  Seattle, WA 98145-5096
and tell her you want to see it back in print.
the compleate bibliographic information is

Author: Peter Collingwood
	Title: The Techniques of Tablet Weaving
	Pub: Watson-Guptill, 1982
	ISBN: 0823052559



thanks Pegasus
	
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu (VU Science Library)
Subject: Re: Need x-stitch hints
Keywords: needles, rust, gold
Organization: Vanderbilt University 
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 19:38:21 GMT


>They all advertise 24 carat gold needles,
>both #24 and #26. The asking price is usually about 6 pounds sterling
>for three.
>Deborah

I don't see how a 24 carat gold needle could hold a point.  Are they solid
or plated?

--
	Carlin Sappenfield - vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu 
			     sappenc@vuctrvax.bitnet
From: mberteig@cco.caltech.edu (Michelle Berteig)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Fibernet
Date: 26 Jan 1993 00:15:15 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

Hi!

I'm the one that posted a couple of days ago regarding my difficulties
in connecting to Fibernet.  It turned out that the few articles I saved
from this group about Fibernet, that I referred to when I wanted to call,
had the wrong telephone number in them!!  The correct phone number is
1-218-583-4337, not -4887 as was stated in the articles I had saved.
I was finally able to get through using this number.  Hope this help
the other people out there who said they had troubles connecting too!

-Michelle Berteig
From: kroy@twolf5.ee.washington.edu (Kalapi Roy)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Cross Stitch Email ??
Date: 21 Jan 1993 19:44:24 GMT
Organization: University Of Washington CAD
Distribution: world
Reply-To: kroy@twolf.ee.washington.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: twolf5.ee.washington.edu

If anyone has the information regarding how to obtain a copy of the Cross Stitch program
for Macintosh, I would appreciate if he/she can send me mail about that. Sorry, I missed
 out the first
portion of the discussion on this topic.

Thanks very much,
Kalapi Roy,
kroy@twolf5.ee.washington.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: hanner@sol1.sps.mot.com (Cynthia J. Hanner)
Subject: Re: Cross Stitch Email ??
Organization: Motorola Inc. MMTG Oakhill Austin Texas
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 14:06:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan20.023640.5736@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> peterc@comm.mot.com (Peter Cassidy) writes:
>Hi,
>      Can some kind soul please uuencode the Cross Stitch program GIFXTS and
>email it to me. My address is peterc@comm.mot.com. I cannot FTP it from
>anywhere and it is really frustrating (??!!!).
>
>Thank you,
>
>Peter Cassidy.
>
>Motorola B.V Ireland.

If the same kind soul wouldn't mind, could I get a copy also?  I have been
wanting just such a program for some time and it IS VERY frustrating.  My 
address is hanner@sol1.sps.mot.com.   Thanks!!!

Cindy Hanner
Motorola, Oak Hill, TX, USA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: lsc@ssd.intel.com (Linda Cline)
Subject: Re: quilt program for computer?
Keywords: Knitted Vest
Organization: Supercomputer Systems Divison, Intel Corp.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 00:38:39 GMT

In article <C18Bsz.4q3@SSD.intel.com>, lsc@ssd.intel.com (Linda Cline) writes:
|> In article <1993Jan21.144143.16420@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca>, kao@adam.unbsj.ca (Kim Osborne) writes:
|> |> Hi, I got the xstitch program yesterday and it is great! I was wondering
|> |> if there was a programout there for quilts. Also, does anyone know
|> |> if there is a list that deals with quilts? Thanks!
|> |>                                           Kim 
|> 
|> I mentioned the Seattle Textile Computer User's Group (STCUG) when 
|> I posted information about various cross-stitch programs recently,
|> and the STCUG newsletter from October 92 deals with quilting software
|> packages.  It mentions a variety of programs available, mostly
|> commercial products, and a shareware program that is available on
|> their DOS disk #3.  You can request a back issue of the newsletter
|> for $1.00 from STCUG P.O. Box 17506, Seattle, WA, 98107, and the
|> disk for $4.00 (there are some other programs on the disk as well).
|> The software programs mentioned in the newsletter include "Quilter's
|> Design Studio", "PC Quilt" (one version available shareware on the #3
|> disk), "Quilt Top Designer" (for MAC), "Quilt" (just a screen saver, 
|> also on the #3 disk), "A Quilter's Aide" (HyperCard stack also on #3 
|> disk), "The Electric Quilt", and "Block Base" (database of quilt 
|> block designs).
|> 
	Ooops, I erred when I said the "Quilter's Aide" HyperCard stack
was on DOS disk #3 from STCUG...  It's on MAC (of course!) disk #1, along
with other MAC textile related shareware programs (but no other quilting
related programs).  Also, I believe that the disks are being changed this
month to accomodate some new stuff, so check with them for their latest
disk list, or mention the program desired by name to ensure you receive
the right disk.

	linda
From: edg@netcom.com (Ed Greenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: >> Program for WEAVING designs <<
Date: 25 Jan 93 21:17:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1993Jan25.211702.11320
Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest)

In article <1993Jan25.144932.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> ksmith@eagle.wesleyan.edu writes:
>
>WANTED:  weaving design program, preferably SHAREWARE
>
>does anyone know of a SHAREWARE program (meaning, i can get it off a bulletin
>board using FTP, and it's free) that helps in designing weave patterns on
>multiple harness looms?
>
I hate to point out what should be obvious, but the term SHAREWARE does
not imply that a program is "free."  Just because it's downloadable, and
freely tested, most of these programs have licensing requirements.
Admittedly most of them leave the final decision to the conscience of
the user, but nonetheless, one _should_ abide by the license agreement.

Please support your shareware authors.  They provide some of the nicest
software around, although this may change if they get no support.
-- 
Edward W. Greenberg  | Home: +1 408 283 0511 | edg@netcom.com
1600 Stokes St. #24  | Work: +1 408 764 5305 | DoD#: 0357
San Jose, CA  95126  | Fax:  +1 408 764 5003 | KM6CG (ex WB2GOH) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: peterc@comm.mot.com (Peter Cassidy)
Subject: GIFXTS
Organization: Motorola Land Mobile Products Sector
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 05:48:58 GMT

Just a line to say many thanks to Paul Blackman of Canberra who answered my
cry for help !!

Thanks again,
Pete
-- 
Peter Cassidy - Motorola B.V Ireland - peterc@comm.mot.com - C10404@email

The opinions expressed above are mine, and not necessarily those of Motorola.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: dschlow@epas.utoronto.ca (Deborah Schlow)
Subject: Re: Need x-stitch hints
Organization: University of Toronto - EPAS
Distribution: rec.crafts.textiles
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 06:59:14 GMT
Followup-To: Re: Need x-stitch hints
Summary: needles
Keywords: needles, rust, gold

In article <1k50n1INNfmb@cornwall.cs.purdue.edu> berninge@cs.purdue.edu (Jim Berninger) writes>jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) writes:

(lots of good advice deleted)


>
>>*What kind of needles do you recommend?
>

I use #24 needles -- I'd like to find some that don't get rusty(?) as I use
>them, as they start to stain the fabric and pull the threads more than they
>should.  I use a hoop (plastic ring, metal base), and the finished product
>goes in a frame -- usually custom fit to the work -- sometimes under glass,
>depending on who gets it and what looks best.


I have been reading a lot of British needlework and cross-stitch
magazines in the past six weeks. A VERY expensive habit that I picked
up over Christmas break. They all advertise 24 carat gold needles,
both #24 and #26. The asking price is usually about 6 pounds sterling
for three. The obvious advantage to these needles is that they would
not rust. Has anyone seen an ad for such needles in American or
Canadian magazines, or have you seen them in your stores? I would like
to get some. I have no objection to ordering them from England, except
that it is kind of a hassle. Any information would be gratefully appreciated.

Deborah


(lots more good stuff deleted)



>  ______ Jim Berninger: berninge@cs.purdue.edu|Hate is not a Family Value______
>  \ \  /   Green Lantern Fan, Extraordinaire  |     Boycott Colorado     \ \  /
>   \/\/ "I don't *wanna* play Leona Helmsley!"| Think twice about Oregon  \/\/
>    \/      -- Elmyra Duff, Tiny Toons Xmas   |    Watch out for Ohio      \/


From: karen@misty.boeing.com (Karen Robinson)
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 20:30:02 GMT
Subject: Surplus Fabric Sale
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane BCS Support