HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: Carr-C10973@email.comm.mot.com (Eric Carr)
Subject: Re: Carb Identification...
Organization: Motorola LMPS Engineering
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:13:05 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech

In article <1992Nov19.144538.2682@brtph560.bnr.ca>,
woodstock!scatlin@mcnc.org (Scot Catlin) wrote:
> 
> 
>         I have a 1976 Chevy Malibu SW that needs a carb rebuild.  I
> have the Chilton manual, and have tried to determine from the pictures
> in the manual which carb I have. (The manual covers all Chevy midsize
> from 1964-1988!!)  It says that the carb should be labeled, but I
> can't find a label or number anywhere on the #@$& thing!  From what
> the manual says I think it's either a Rochester 2GV (2-bbl) or a 
> Rochester M4MC (4-bbl)
> 
>         My question:  Is there a simple way to tell which one of there
> carbs it is?  Can you tell if a carb is a 4-bbl just by looking?  
                ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Of course you can and in a couple of ways after removing the air cleaner. 
As the name implies, a Rochester 2-bbl carb has only 2 "throats" covered by
one choke plate.  A Rochester "Quadrajet" 4-bbl has 4 "throats" covered by
two separate choke plates - one for the primaries towards the front of the
car (looking from above) and a second and much larger choke plate for the
two secondaries (Rochester uses two much larger secondaries while Holley
barrels are all the same size).  Another way - Quadrajet carbs have the
name "Quadrajet" written somewhere on the throttle body.

  
>If anyone out there has this car, or a 1976 Chevy vehicle with the 350
> V8, can you tell me the difference, or what yours has, and what it
> looks like?
> 
>         BTW...  I use the car daily, so removing the carb just to find
> out what it is would be highly inconvenient.  I like to take it off
> just to rebuild it.
> 
>         You can e-mail me at the address below, or just post to share
> your knowledge with the entire net.  Thanks in advance.
> 
>                         Scot
>                         ----
> 
> -- 
> _______________________________________________________________________
> |Scot Catlin            .  .  .  ************************.  .  .  .  . |
> |Work      (919) 991-8763.  .  . * 1978 Kawasaki KZ650D * .  .  .  .  .|
> |Home      (919) 490-1916 .  .  .************************  .  .  .  .  |
> |Real Home (412) 421-5063  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  . |
> |Internet: woodstock!scatlin@mcnc.org   .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .|
> |______________________________________________________________________|

Eric Carr                                                                  

Motorola LMPS Engineering                                                  
  
1301 E. Algonquin Rd.   IL02  SH3K                                        
Schaumburg, IL  60196                                                      
 
                                                                           
 
(708) 576-8742    carr-c10973@email.mot.com                                
                           
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: mamcconnell@happy.colorado.edu (Mark (MacBear) McConnell)
Subject: Sports Wheel Cover for Jeeps wanted
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 20 Nov 92 17:28:55 MDT

Can anyone tell me where I could find a Jeep wheel cover
with sports teams logos on them? 

Thanks in advance.

-- 
Mark (Sidewinder) McConnell  | When children give wrong answers, it is
mamcconnell@uccs.edu         | not so often they are wrong as they are
mamcconne@colospgs.BITnet    | answering another question.  The job is
                             | to find out what question they are, in 
                             | fact, answering.             David Page
From: vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Netiquette & the moral QUANDRY
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:46:12 GMT
Organization: General Motors Research Labs
In-reply-to: jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu's message of 23 Nov 92 19:50:46 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.195046.28462@scott.skidmore.edu> jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (JTD is lost) writes:


<stuff deleted>

   What this all makes me wonder is- what is relevent to respond with in
   situations like this?  When someone asks advice people are obviously
   not relegated to only answering their questions, but where do we draw
   the line between letter writing and personal insults?  Net etiquette
   seems to say if you don't like someone then shut up about it.  I
   believe that the FAQ list suggests keeping out of flame wars and
   avoiding useless subjects like Japan bashing and 'my car is better
   than yours' discussions.  What this boils down to is 'what is the
   proper (net preferred and/or acceptable) response to this, especailly
   when personal insults enter the case (as they sometimes do). 

<more stuff deleted>

Well Jonathan, I guess that I've reached the point in life where 
I'm confidant enough about my own image and my own abilities that 
it really doesn't matter any more what some stranger thinks about
me.  I'll tell ya, son, it's the greatest feeling in the world
to be able to hear someone insulting you and not caring at all.

The closest that I think I can come to describing it is to ask
you to imagine how you'd feel when being insulted by a 4 year old 
and then to project that feeling toward ANY insulting person.

The way I handle such things Jonathan is to simply stop arguing.

Some people may have noticed me doing that right here in r.a.t.
--
-val-

Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF            \      /|
Instrumentation dept., 30500 Mound Rd., Warren, MI 48090-9055    \    / |
The opinions expressed by the author do not necessarily reflect   \  /__|
those of GMR or those of the General Motors Corporation.           \/   |___
From: jas20@duts.ccc.amdahl.com (John A Sigmon)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Tips on Toy 22RET Rebuild
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:22:48 GMT
Reply-To: jas20@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (John A Sigmon)
Distribution: na
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

I am rebuilding a Toyota 22RET motor and am looking for any tips
form people that have rebuilt any 22R, 22RE, or 22RET motors.
Please send any comments or tips about this motor rebuild to the
above email address.
................................................................
Thanks John Sigmon
Amdahl Corp.
Sunnyvale CA
................................................................
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mccorry@ecn.purdue.edu (Steven E. McCorry)
Subject: Auto trans problem - Lock Out 
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 02:34:17 GMT

HELP.

I have an 86' Z-24 with a 3-speed auto trans.  Im having trouble with the lock
out.

At speed (70-85mph) the lock-out is letting go and the car jerks as the RPM jumps 
up and down.  The actual switch is faulty I believe.

Recently, the lock-out hasn't been letting go as I stop from crusing.

With the lock-out releasing sometimes and grasping excessively at others , is it
a safe assumption that it is actually the L-O switch itself?

If so, where is its exact location?  Any help is greatly appreciated.  If youve
had a similar prob - please let me know.  Thanks.

     Steve McCorry    (mccorry@cn.ecn.purdue.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Subject: Re: Honda Civic dies suddenly when starting
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:26:52 GMT


In article <1992Nov16.153200.20317@novell.com>, bboerner@novell.com (Brendan B. Boerner) writes...
>In article <1992Nov10.170843.18313@novell.com> bboerner@novell.com (I) writes:
>>I've got an '89 Honda Civic LX which this weekend started doing
>>something odd - when starting it, it'll catch, run for a second or so
>>and then immediately die.  It doesn't chug, chug, chug, and then die,
>>it just dies, sort of like if I were spraying Starting fluid in there
>>- as soon as it burns the bit you sprayed in there, and it isn't
>>getting gas or whatever, it just dies.

I had EXACTLY the same problem, first time ever, this Friday evening.  The car
started fine and went about 500 feet and then stalled at a stop sign.  During my
restart attempts, it would catch instantly, run for 1/2 a second and die.  It
did that at least 10 times and then kept on running as if nothing had happened.

I got the fuel pump changed today as preventive measure.  Besides, at 116K miles
on the clock, it probably was not going to last much longer in the 83 Prelude. 
My mechanic said that most fuel pumps get replaced long before they reach 116K
miles.

In my particular model, when alternator goes, the carburator shuts off itself,
This leads to similar symptoms as above, albeit the car will run for 5-10
seconds but will die as soon as you try to move it.  Since you said you had some
problems with battery, you might want to check the alterator too.

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Allison
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 16:59:03 -0500

Could somebody please post a phone no. or address for Allison Automotive? I have
a couple of the XR700 ignition systems I need to get replaced under warranty,
and the info operator for their former location (Monrovia) doesn't have a
listing for them.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner)
Subject: Re: Help with slipping transmission
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 02:23:23 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL4

From: wwein@scott.skidmore.edu (warren wein)

>
>	Saturday morning I took my 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse gsx out for
>a drive.  I went to pass someone in 4th gear and the engine started
>reving but I wasn't moving any fater.  Then the revs dropped and I
>started accelerating.  I was worried that the clutch might be going
>but clutch take up in all gears was normal.  I tried flooring the car
>in 5th gear and the same reving and then drop in revs , acceleration.

Among the other advice, consider the potential that your clutch
has gotten oil on it, usually from a main seal at the end of the
crankshaft. This is exactly what the symptom would be.  Of course,
there would likely be oil dripping out somewhere too.

Dan Hepner
From: rharrie@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Beretta Dash Lights and headlamp chime.....help
Date: 19 Nov 92 16:25:35 GMT
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Here is one for everyone.....

I have an 88 Cheverolet Beretta GT with the digital instrument cluster.
The problem I am havi8ng is very simple.  When my headlights or parking lights
are switched on, the8 lights for the instrument cluster, the heater/fan control
lights, the gear selector lights and the headlight warning chime do not work.  
When, the headlights or parking lights are not on, the digital cluster lights 
work.

I've probed around quite a bit, and elminated the obvious.  It's not a 
broken switch and the fuse is OK.  BTW, this began as an intermittent problem,
but now seems to be8 permenantly broken!

Has anyone else had this fixed?

Could it be in the headlight/door/ignition key chime box, or is that just 
passive?

There must be a place where the circuit gets turned on, but I cannot find 
where.

Please email directly,

Robert Harrie
RHARRIE@AC.DAL.CA
Dalhousie University
Nova Scotia, Canada
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: btwomey@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (william.tw0mey)
Subject: Excessive hydrocarbons revisited
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:11:03 GMT


Previously I wrote:
>Here in NJ, my car failed inspection because of excessive hydrocarbon
>emissions.  

Well, I got the beastie to pass.  How?

I did a couple of things:
1.  dump STP Carb cleaner into tank.
2.  Filled halfway with with Amoco Premium ( Oxygenated fuel )
3.  dumped another container of STP Carb cleaner into tank for good measure.
4.  replaced O2 sensor.
5.  got tested at another place

Items 1, 2, 3 put should help with CO emissions, but this was not an
issue.  1 and 3 might have helped, but I do not think so as I had
burned a few containers trying to get rid of my last problem only a
few thousand miles ago.  (The carburetor mixture control solenoid
was sticking, forcing periods of over lean and no power to be
punctuated with bouts of normal mixture which was really over rich
because I was flooring it to overcome the overlean condition.  Fun,
ehh?)

Item 4 probably is the answer.  I tested the O2 sensor before
deciding to replace it, and got sluggish and low responses while
enriching mixture.  O2 sensor output would barely cross .5v and
hover around .1 to .2v..  I also thought the O2 sensor had gotten
fouled with lots of unburned fuel whilst the solenoid had been on
the blink.  Supporting this notion was the fact that I had checked
the plugs during this episode and found them very black and
sooted.

Item 5, well, who knows.  The original testers (at a garage) could
have been buffoons.  They said that the emission was probably
caused by needing new spark plugs.  Not a big ticket item for them
to profiteer from.  Going to the garage was useful because they
pointed out a few maintenace items that I shall watch.

Thanks to those who responded:
	 Bohdan.L.Bodnar@att.com
	 rossi@gvlf9.GVL.Unisys.COM
	 mf@dancer.cc.bellcore.com
	 danapple@vicor.com

Bill Twomey
-- 
bt@violin.att.com
Organization: Doctoral student, Architecture, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 11:03:56 -0500 
From: Kung-Jen Tu <kt1a+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Help on NO START!!!

Hopefully, I can gether your thought to identify the cause of NO START
of my car - an 84 Toyota Camry.

My car was running well except that once in a while I could not start
the car for unknown reason (happened 6-7 times in the last two and half
month).  The first time it broke down with no start, I had it towed to a
garauge.  They replaced the fuel pump.  The car ran well for a while and
then it broke down again (no start).  I had it checked at the same
garauge.  When the mechanics  was diagnosing, the car started suddenly. 
They could not find the problem, and thought that the fuel system,
battery, and plugs should be fine.  They also suspected that it could be
a problem with electrical system.  

I hestitated to go to the garauge due to the high cost of the diagnosis
and those two helpless experience with them.  But, I discovered a
predictable symptom for no start, and found a way to cure it when the
third NO START occurred.  Here is the symptom:

Supposely, the first switch of key (before igniting the engine) should
lighten all the signs, such as check engine, battery, door, fasten
seatbelt, etc.  If the 'check engine' is not lit, I know I won't be able
to start the car.  This is the only symptom that I found.

The way I dealt with it is to open the hood and close it heavily (trying
to shake the car body).  The 'check engine' sign normally came back
after a few try, and I can run the car again.  I have been using this
low-tech method to deal with my car in the past few months.

According to your knowledge and based on these sympton and fact
described, please take a guess and help me identify the cause.  Any
suspicion about where the problem might be, or any advice and suggestion
about what to do next, will be very appreciated.  



Kung-Jen Tu


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: n3022@cray.com (Jim Knoll)
Subject: Rotten egg smell
Keywords: Rotten egg 
Reply-To: n3022@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 18 Nov 92 13:59:21 CST

I've noticed at times when driving behind some cars that I can smell rotten
egg gas (hydrogen sulfide?).  Is it normal for cars to emit that smell even if
everything is functioning okay in the emission system.  Or, could the smell
indicate a plugged catalytic converter, bad O2 sensor, bad timing, etc.?

If there is already a FAQ on this topic, could someone direct me to it?
Otherwise, I would appreciate hearing about the causes of this smell.

Thanks,

Jim Knoll



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pas@jupiter.ic.cmc.ca (Peter Stokes)
Subject: Mystery timing slip
Organization: Canadian Microelectronics Corporation
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 15:11:10 GMT

My 1986 Ford Mustang, 2.3L engine started OK yesterday
morning but had absolutely no power when trying to 
accelerate.    It had to be towed to a garage.   The
mechanic said the timing was way off and adjusted it
by rotating the distributor assembly.    The mystery is, 
how did the timing all of a sudden slip way off?
The garage is a respectable diagnosis center and can't
offer an explanation without pulling parts off.   They 
checked the timing belt and it did not slip.   Also, the 
distributor assembly was secure before they adjusted it.   
Apparently in this engine, the crank shaft drives the oil 
pump which in turn drives the distributor shaft.   If it 
happens again, they will want to pull the distributor 
assembly for inspection, and failing finding anything 
abnormal, will have to inspect the oil pump.

Anyone else seen something similar?

Peter
-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Peter A. Stokes ~~~~~~~~ pas@jupiter.ic.cmc.ca ~~~~~~~ (613) 545-2923 ~~~~~
Canadian Microelectronics Corporation ~~~~~~~~~~~ Kingston, Ontario, Canada
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 16:48:17 EST
From: Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Quattro Club?

johnw@tekgen.bv.tek.com (John Winkelman) says:
>
>Can anyone give me a pointer (name/address/phone#) to a club devoted
>to Audi Quattros, or to Audis in general?

Quattro-Request@aries.east.sun.com
Organization: Sophomore, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 00:19:38 -0500 
From: Paul M Taylor <pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
	<1992Nov16.230423.10418@newstand.syr.edu>
Distribution: usa

  I'm still trying to wipe the permagrin off my face..
>
>   This weekend my mom came down with her 92 Jag XJS conv. with the 
>12 cylinder engine. I had heard that if you keep it in 1st that the
>shift will be at redline instead of at 3500 as it is when it is in 
>Drive. Well I tried it and let me tell you it was AWSOME! The car
>torqued right up to 85, tires squeeled shifted into 2nd and just went
>right up to 130 mph until it chirped the tires again and just kept 
>going like it was never going to stop... 

>    Is there any other type of transmission that operates like this?
>I mean the part about keeping it in first and leaving it there.

Yep.  It's called most any automatic.  The Jag uses a GM TH-400 
last time I checked.  Later models have the 4L80, a HD, OD version
of the regular 400.  Also shift kits set to street-strip will overide
the default upshift.

	Are you sure it is most automatics?  Do you mean computer controlled vehicles?
	About leaving it in first, My Neighbor used to own a 69'SS Nova and he
said his did the same thing.  But this was a pre comp. car.  What's the
story?  I was under the impression that the car would blow up.  If you
put it in a gear manually then it would essentia.llyu need to be shifted
to D to make it automatic again.???
Paul
From: sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 10:50:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Bosch LE-2 Jetronic schematics?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

clift@ml.csiro.au (Steve Clift) asks in <1992Nov16.012145.27581@ml.csiro.au>:

> I have an LE-2 unit which has a fault.........Does anyone have, or know where
> I can get, a schematic for this thing Bosch are not exactly forthcoming -

I had the same trouble trying to get a cct dig - I'm sorry to say I still don't
have one.  However, the most useful book I found was

_Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management_,
Charles O. Probst, SAE
Robert Bentley, Publishers
ISBN 0-8376-0300-5

which says everything the official Bosch books say that I've seen, plus a few
useful comments.  I hope this helps you and others, please post if you find
more.

> When set up in a test rig which simulates the engine sensors, the thing
> works fine - identical to a known good unit.

Did I read this right?  Surely then it is a sensor/injector electrical
fault.......

Cheers,
Steve.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Manually shifting an automatic
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 07:54:59 GMT

About shifting automatic manually, I havev a few comments.

When you have to get somewhere in a hurry fast, then I can see
shifting up manually. Also, if one is descending a grade, I can see
shifting down.

However, needless shifting to manual at stoplights create more wear
to the system than the cost of brakes. Same with downshifting to
create engine braking, automatic or not.

Racing is one thing, but the typical drive about town does not
warrant wear to the transmission (auto) and the clutch (manual).

Of course, I can see if your car is running poorly to shift to
manual when your car is stopped, but not when your car is running
well.


-- 
#############################################################
# Scaramento Public Access UNIX     sactoh0.SAC.CA.US       #  
#  (916) 649-0161, 722-6516 & 722-5068    E-Mail & USENET   #
################## default .signature file ##################
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: caliper seizure
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 23:54:08 GMT


I wouldn't even mess around with trying to rebuild a brake caliper unless you 
have thorough knowledge of how to do it and only if it is a very scarce part.
Go to the auto parts store and pick up a new one. They are not that 
expensive----unless you have a rice-burner, but thats your own fault.


-Take it from a guy who has known people that tried it at the expense of a
 wreck.
-- 

*******************************************************************************
                   sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
*******************************************************************************
From: cholette@JSP.UMontreal.CA (Cholette Martin)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: ********************* HELP NEEDED!!! *****************************
Date: 22 Nov 92 20:23:05 GMT
Organization: Universite de Montreal

Hello everyone!

 I have a 1988 Honda Civic DX with 1.5 litre engine. My clutch is pretty
 worn out and needs to be replaced. I have a friend who gave me a clutch
 from an 88 civic, he told me that the car had 5000 km when it got scrapped.
 However, I find that the clutch looks pretty thin, But I have no idea how
 thick a clutch should be, I had never seen one until today. Can anyone tell
 me how thick a clutch for my car should be??? That way I can mesure it
 and see how used my spare clutch really is. Also is there any other way to
 make sure the clutch is good? How about the pressure plate, he gave me that
 also. Should I go ahead and get it installed?? I know a mechasnic who will
 do for me for about $100 on his spare time.

 Please help, I would aprreciate any suggestion via E-mail.

Thanks a million!
Martin Cholette
cholette@jsp.umontreal.ca
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech