HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Date: 14 Apr 92 12:14:36 GMT
Reply-To: de@moscom.UUCP (David Esan)
Organization: Moscom Corp., Pittsford, NY

In article <1992Apr13.165508.5560@den.mmc.com> bsimmons@t4cma-gw.den.mmc.com (Brian Simmons) writes:

[Asks for help on building a bookcase.  In addition to the usual questions he
also notes he has neither time nor tools, and lives in an apartment.]

Go and buy a premade bookshelf.  Use your electric drill as a screwdriver 
and put it together.  You might even want an unfinished one that you can 
finish, but you can get cheap fake veneer shelves fairly inexpensively.

The reasons I say this is include:

1. To create the dados you need to make these shelves you need either a
   router or a tables saw. Costs range from say $100 to $300 for the router,
   and from $400 to ???? for the table saw.

2. If you buy a router, you still need some sort of saw to cut the wood.
   Costs range from $100 to $400 for a circular saw.

3. I would bet your neighbors will not happy with the noise of a router or
   a circular saw.

If you buy, you will done in an hour, there will be no noise, and you save
megabucks on tools.





-- 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 -->     David Esan      de@moscom.com  
 
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: What happened to Roy?
From: <DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Sunday, 12 Apr 1992 15:56:58 EST
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

I live in New York City, where we have three public t.v. stations to choose

from.  While watching Norm the other day I realized that The Woodrights Shop

has'nt been on in a long time.  Is the show on anywhere else or is it just

not on in the N.Y.C area anymore?  I seem to recall someone mentioning

Daniel Schlissel


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: aa558@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Mario Alemagno)
Subject: Cordless Drill
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 92 18:03:49 GMT


I just purchased a Panasonic 12 volt Cordless which I am very
pleased with.  I did have one question that I hope others
may be able to share experiences with me to answer.  I owned
a Makita 7.2 volt for approximately 8 years and got excellent
service from it.  I notice that the Panasonic does not seem
to hold a charge as long as the Makita does.  (Which incidently
is still working on the same battery pack.)  Is it because of the
higher voltage output that it looses the charge faster and that 
is just the nature of a 12 volt high output drill or is there 
possibly something wrong with the battery pack.  
In any event, it is a great drill and I would recommend it 
to others.  By the way, it is 12 vt with a 15 min recharge if
that makes a difference.
Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Mason Frazier)
Subject: Re: Sliding table refit...
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 18:12:53 GMT
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.

markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams) writes:
: Kity makes a sliding miter guage which is excellent.  Call Ferris Machinery
: for details.  Its made for the Delta and Kity line of saws, alas, so the
: mounting holes don't match Sears.  
: 
: This sells for $290 by mail from Ferris.  Its basically a pair of rails
: which are parallel to the blade, and a sliding table with protractor
: for miters.  It hangs off the left side of your saw, with legs for the
: outboard side.  Check it out.  
: 

	Could I get some more information from you about this? 

	1) where is Ferris Machinery (I'm in Denver)
    2) is the protracter scale mounted verticaly on the left side (like
	   the duby jig) so that setting errors are measured in thousandths of
	   and inch?

	Thanks, MMF
From: gerryk@nyxplant.East.Sun.COM (Gerry Krajenka)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Date: 14 Apr 92 15:08:37 GMT
Reply-To: gerryk@nyxplant.East.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems
NNTP-Posting-Host: nyxplant.east.sun.com


 I agree with Brian, one of the reasons why is because I'm a 
simple simmon bookcase builder and without a lot of tools
you can build and nice bookcase.

Gerry
_________________

From brianw@writer.yorku.ca (Brian Whittaker) writes;
We now have a request for a bookcase design that can be executed with
a power drill and limited skill. The secret weapon here is the use
of cleats to join the horizontal and vertical pieces:

               _
               v
               *
               *
               *
       ____    |                                           ____  
       |  | ______________________________________________ |  |
       |  ||                                              ||  |
       |  ||______________________________________________||  |
       |  | ______                                  ______ |  |
       |  ||      |                                |      ||  |
|>****-|  ||      |\                               |      ||  |
       |  ||      | \                              |      ||  |
       |  ||______|  \                             |______||  |
       |  |           \                                    |  |
       |  |            cleat                               |  |
       |  |                                                |  |
       |  |                                                |  |
From: auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bartley Paste Stains
Date: 10 Apr 92 20:53:48 GMT

I have not definitely used th Bartley paste stains myself.  I did see a demonstration
of them at the Atlanta woodworking show.  They looked very good and easy
to use.  I will definitely try it on my next project.

Steve
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: Richard Crane <craner@yalevm.ycc.yale.edu>
Subject: Re: Want to get started in wood
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.0
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 13:47:58 GMT

This article was probably generated by a buggy news reader.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mckim@sdd.hp.com (Jim McKim)
Subject: Re: Seek Advice on Gluing Mortise & Tenon Joints
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 21:03:36 GMT

In article <1992Apr9.210741.11374@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> flato@icefloe.dartmouth.edu (Gregory M Flato) writes:
>
>I like to add dowels to my mortise and tenon joints, both for added strength
>and because I like the look of a so-called 'pinned' mortise and tenon. To
>do this, proceed as above and let the piece dry overnight. Next day, lay out
>the dowel positions, drill holes (not all the way through but deep enough to
>pass through the tenon and slightly into the other side of the mortise), cut
>a bunch of dowels (smooth not fluted) about 1/4" longer than neccessary, sand
>a bit of a bevel on one end of each (to make it easier to start them in
>the holes), apply a little glue on the tapered end of the dowel with your
>finger and drive it (the dowel, not your finger) into the hole. When the
>glue dries (next day) cut the protruding dowels off with a flush-cutting saw
>or pare them off with a sharp chisel and sand smooth. Viola!
>

If you REALLY want to add strength to the joint with the dowels, and reap 
the additional benefit of having them help pull the joint tight, add them
*during* glue-up, not after. Before glue-up, drill the hole in the piece
with the mortise, insert the tenon, and mark for the center of the hole in
the tenon a little off center of that in the mortise, so that when the
dowel is driven in it will draw the tenon in tighter. The amount of 
eccentricity of the holes will vary with the size of the joint and the species
of wood. You should experiment first to see what works.

This technique was and is used in timberframe construction. Rough-hewn,
squarish pegs called "trunnels" or "treenails" were driven into round bored
holes; the corners of the pegs compressed, making a tight fit. This system
exploited the advantages of both elements: round holes are easy to bore, 
and square pegs are easy to hew. No glue was used.

---
Jim McKim
Hewlett-Packard Co., San Diego Technical Graphics Division
mckim@sdd.hp.com
From: alvin@bmerh327.bnr.ca (Alvin Yeung)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: new table saw prep
Date: 13 Apr 92 19:56:50 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada

I just ordered my contractor's saw and it will be here
in a couple of days.

Are there any woodworker's secrets I should be aware of in 
getting the saw ready for action other than the 
expected setup/calibration instructions that will 
come with it?

I understand the saw table usually comes with a film of
thick, oily, sticky, messy substance on its surfaces.  After
I remove that - what should I use to protect its surface?  I've
read about paste wax, and chalk applied with blackboard brush,
could I have a bit more info on this?

Where can I get this stuff -paste wax- or would the salespeople
know what I'm talking about?

FYI, I got the saw (w/o UNIFENCE) for $770 + $68 (shipping/handling) 
+ $taxes (too much) from ToolTrench of Toronto.  They honored a 
price advertised by a B.C. store that was $80 less than ToolTrend's.  
I've still got the ad (April issue of Canadian Workshop, p.12) if 
anyone else is interested.

I agonzied over the Delta and the BT3000 for a few days
before choosing.  The Delta costs a little more, but
I believe I made the right decision.
From: DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: What happened to Roy?
Date: 12 Apr 92 23:37:41 GMT
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

My original post was missing a line, so here it is again.

I live in New York City, where we have three public t.v. stations to choose
from.  While watching Norm the other day I realized that the Woodrights Shop
has'nt been on in a long time.  Is the show on anywhere else or is it just
not on in the N.Y.C. area anymore?  I seem to recall someone mentioning
that they met Roy Underhill and that he was excited about the show.
I tried calling the local stations but they did'nt know anything.
thanks
Daniel Schlissel
From: phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reference requested: "Workbench Book"
Summary: Got it, thanks!
Date: 8 Apr 92 07:40:30 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: NASA Ames Research Center, CA


Within hours, I received the reference (ain't Usenet great?)
Here it is:

The Workbench Book
Scott Landis
Taunton Press
0-918804-76-0
--

Thanks to Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca.

		Phil Stone (phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov | ...ames!eos!phil)
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: info wanted on power drivers
Date: 17 Apr 92 21:00:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

One of the other parameters is weight.  I bought the Milwaukee because
it was about average in RPM and HP (driving screws isn't all that
precise of a science), but it was significantly lighter than some of
the others.  This is important for drywall work (especially if you've
got limitted assistance) as you'll end up holding the drill out at
arms length.

My Milwaukee drives screws just fine into wood either with or without
the intervening drywall.

=Ron
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: degroff@amanda.IntelliCorp.COM (Les Degroff)
Subject: re: want to get started in woodworking 
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 21:52:34 GMT

re: to wanting to get started.
  I would agree with the posters saying start by learning
to appreciate wood and tools but would add that you might
consider some rarer branches than furniture esp if you are
on a limited budget. Two areas that I have found "feasible 
in a small apartment" and lower cost are minatures and small
carvings.  In your library or bookstore explorations I might
suggest Tangerman's books on whittling and wood carving and
checking out minatures (boat models, "doll" furniture ect)
On the art side of this see if your library has book on Netsuke and
Ogemi (sp) which are traditional Japanese art forms utilyzing small
carvings.  
    It is possible to start in woodworking with firewood, small scraps and
a few dollars worth of tools!
   One other bit, check out early Japanese pull type saws... esp. the
cheaper and slightly heavyer made for American ones (20 to 30$) 
Les DeGroff  (degroff@intellicorp.com)
From: LOGIN@cbnewse.cb.att.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Help locating part
Keywords: locate part sanding disc face plate
Date: 14 Apr 92 17:11:52 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

I am trying to find a specific part in an attempt to build a sander.  The
part I am looking for is called a sanding disc face plate.  This plate is
what the sanding disc actually adheres to.  I am looking for one that is
20" in diameter.  The only place that sells a face plate (that I have
found) is a company called Meisel Hardware Specialities.  They only sell 
an 8" diameter face plate.  I contacted them, but, they wer extremely
uncooperative.  They didn't want to special order it, they didn't even
want to look to see if their source made such a beast.  They would also
not give me the manufacturers name so that I could contact them directly.

Any leads to check out would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Bob Ushman
rcu@ihlpm.att.com
From: colaluca@cs.utexas.edu (Mark Colaluca)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Want to get started in woodworking...
Date: 7 Apr 1992 13:07:16 -0500
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
NNTP-Posting-Host: saltillo.cs.utexas.edu

I checked the FAQ, and this doesn't seem to be one, so I'll ask anyways.
If someone like myself wants to get started in woodworking, what would
be the best route to go?  I would imagine it would be very nice to have
an experienced woodworker on hand to "show you the ropes", however, I
do not have this luxury.  Also, it appears to me (by watching shows like
the New Yankee Workshop and others) that a significant monetary investment
in tools and equipment must be made to produce any appreciable woodworking
project (that is, produce it efficiently, rather than hand-sawing, etc.).
I guess I'd like some general feedback from experienced woodworkers out there
on their own start in the hobby, and any advice for a newcomer.

Thanks very much,

-- 
|  Mark Colaluca	Internet:   colaluca@cs.utexas.edu |
|  			Compuserve: 72230,1221 AOL: MC99   |
|        "A Pittsburgh native, and proud of it. "          | 
|----------------------------------------------------------|
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen)
Subject: Re: Adjusting planer knives
Organization: Crash TimeSharing, El Cajon, CA
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 16:36:59 GMT

	The June 1992 issue of BH&G Wood has an article on adjusting
jointer knives using a piece of wood and masking tape.  I just saw it
last night so have not tried the method shown.  I used a similar method
when I adjusted my power hand planer and it seemed to work.

	DonB
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcases
Keywords: bookcase, low-tech, cleats
Date: 14 Apr 92 14:51:12 GMT

In article <1992Apr14.031229.22451@newshub.ccs.yorku.ca>, brianw@writer.yorku.ca (Brian Whittaker) writes:
> 3. This method of construction, with cleats at both ends of both
> shelves (and a back panel) should be strong enough that you could make
> a really fast job of it by using prefinished particle board. However,
> particleboard book shelves do tend to sag under a full load of books
> when they get to about 3' long.

You can significantly reduce the sag in particle board shelves (or pine
shelves, for that matter) by adding a lip in front.  Take a 1x2 and fasten
it to the front edge of the shelf, with its top flush with the top surface
of the shelf.  You'll also hide the exposed edge of the shelf, which is
useful if you're using particle board or plywood.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bds@maui.linus.mitre.org (Barry D. Smith)
Subject: a bargain in sanding materials
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 13:27:54 GMT


Recently The Sanding Catalogue sent me their catalog.  Their primary
customers are commercial accounts, and they make belts for everything
from large stationary machines to small belt sanders.  They also sell
sheets in both paper and cloth to 1200 grit, and a variety of disks to
fit about any other type of sander.  The prices are reasonable but not
dirt cheap.  However, the quality is excellent -- for example, the
belts use a tape splice that allows you to run the belt in both
directions, without the annoying thumping of cheaper belts.

There are two items of interest to bargain hunters.  First, they sell
a bargain box.  After they finish making as many belts as is possible
for their machines to make from a sheet of sandpaper, they're left
with pieces that they used to throw out.  Now they package them in
boxes of 20 pounds of sandpaper, mostly cloth-backed, and in your
choice of grit ranges (fine, medium, coarse, or any combination).
They charge $29/box.  I bought a box and was very happy.  The
sandpaper is all large enough to use on my sanders (I have to cut it
to size, of course), and there are some rolls that are the perfect
width for my 1/4 sheet sander, so I only have to cut the length.  And
20 pounds is a lot of sandpaper.

They also sell a box of belts in sizes up to 4X24.  You choose the
size and they give you 36 belts in 6 grits for $29.  These are first
quality belts, and are not rejects.

They also sell a belt called a planer belt.  It's blue, and the finest
grit it comes in is 80.  Since I had a coupon for a free belt, I got
one.  Planer belts are more money, but it cuts much faster than
standard belts, and doesn't load up nearly as badly.  

Finally, they also sell Bosch and Fein sanders and vacuums.

Their phone number is 1-800-228-0000.  There is no minimum order, but
shipping is $3.50 (there's a $5.00 coupon in the catalog, though).
And they guarantee their prices to be the best of any national
company, and will meet any prices of other companies, for what that's
worth. 

Barry Smith
From: rosch@cpdw.enet.dec.com (Ray Rosch)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Want to get started in woodworking
Date: 9 Apr 92 17:09:54 GMT
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <1992Apr8.171604.8391@crd.ge.com>, bilkerla@pluto.crd.ge.com (Lawrence A. Bilker) writes...
>I would like feedback on starting in Woodworking as well.
> 
> 
>From: colaluca@cs.utexas.edu (Mark Colaluca) writes:
> 
>---- Begin Included message ----
> 
>I checked the FAQ, and this doesn't seem to be one, so I'll ask anyways.
>If someone like myself wants to get started in woodworking, what would

		stuff deleted



One of the very best introductions to woodworking is HOW TO MAKE A BOARD by
Dave Barry


****
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed do not in any way reflect those of my employer
****
From: BRENNAAA@DUVM.OCS.DREXEL.EDU (Andrew Brennan)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Puzzle Boxes
Date: 9 Apr 92 15:30:18 GMT


      Is anyone aware of information about Chinese or Victorian
   puzzle boxes?

      Please respond directly - I have limited access to Usenet
   news ...

      andrew.  (brennaaa@duvm.ocs.drexel.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: anderson@scivax.stsci.edu
Subject: Sears Router problem followup
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 21:00:11 GMT

I'm the one who posted the original query about Sears routers.

1)  thanks to all of you who responded.  turns out the repair will only be
    about $15 if I do it myself
2)  to those who have one of these, I would recommend the following precaution-
    ary measures to avoid having your router befall the same fate:

  Upon dismantling the thing, I quickly figured out what had happened.  
  Apparently the manufacturer was worried that the wires running along the
  space between the armature and the housing might get into the armature and 
  be abraded, so they (probably retro-)fitted two hunks of stiff, gray, 
  cardboard-like material in there to keep the wires in their place.  Unfor-
  tunately, they relied upon minimal friction to keep these cards in place.
  The vibration of operating the tool must have been enough to dislodge one
  of them, which promptly fell straight into the fan blades.  I would recommend
  doing one of two things:

  o Always use your router upside-down (i.e. in a router table) OR (since that 
    isn't always practical)

  o open it up and devise a way to keep the cards in place, or remove them and
    hope the wires don't get jiggled into the armature.  I think they were 
    being a bit paranoid in worrying that that might happen, but maybe the 
    amount of slack in the wires varies from one router to the next.  For good-
    ness' sake, don't sue me if you take the cards out and get a 110 volt hairdo
    to show for it!

                                                    Chris Anderson
From: ashen@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Claude Ashen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Help locating part
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:01:07 GMT
Organization: HP Network Measurements Div, Santa Rosa, CA

I have seen people make a 10" face plate to use on a table saw from
a sink cutout.  These are cheep.  Not knowing more about your application
I can not recomend this, but it may give you somthing to think about.
For a 20" sanding disc, I would worry a bit about the speed planded for
the disc.  If you keep the speed down this approach might work.  20" sanding
disc seem reaily BIG to me.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hir@nvuxr.uucp (26122-rothrock)
Subject: 36" bandsaw (old) -- what's it worth?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: regional
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 18:12:05 GMT
Keywords: bandsaw


I have an old, but good, 36" bandsaw that I'm probably going to sell.
It was made by American Sawmill Machinery (or Foundry - I can't remember
which).  I've seen the same kind of equipment at the operating sawmill in 
Double Trouble State Park in New Jersey.  This is not a dainty piece of
equipment.  It has a 3hp 220v motor that I remember weighing 165 lbs when
I moved it, and even the table weighs 140 lbs.  The blade is about 18' 6"
long.  The saw stands about 8' high.  It works fine, and I've never had
any problems with it.  

o  Can anyone give me an idea of what it's worth, or how to find out what 
   it's worth?  

o  Is anyone out in Internet land interested?  (It is lurking in my
   basement in Holmdel, NJ and would be tough to gift-wrap for shipping,
   so I assume you aren't too far away!)

                      Rocky Rothrock
                      Bellcore
                      hir@nvuxr.cc.bellcore.com
                      (908) 758-2136

Nothing I say on this net represents the views of my employer.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking