HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tracer@carson.u.washington.edu (David P. Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Kingsnake comments, anyone?
Date: 9 Oct 92 19:16:02 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Oct9.160034.18002@oakhill.sps.mot.com> stevet@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Steve Turner) writes:
>victore@jato.jpl.nasa.gov (Victor M. Esquivel) writes:
>
>>Anyways, how did that guy keep six kingsnakes in one cage?
>
>They were all about the same size, and I suppose he kept them
>well-fed.  Kingsnakes surely don't immediately eat each other
>on contact; if this were true, how would they ever breed ???`
>

True enough.  In an attempt to have them breed, I've been putting my male
and female Scarlet Kings together quite a bit.  They've never even
attempted to bite let alone consume each other.  Yet, I once saw a bunch
of scarlet kings that were pretty scarred up & was told that they had been
kept together and that's where the scarring came from.
From: msgctr@calmasd.Prime.COM (Message Center)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Cage mate for a Boa?
Date: 13 Oct 92 23:24:28 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computervision, San Diego, CA




I've had Pooh for 7 years and throughout that time I've kept 
her in cages with: 	Reticulated Pythons (4' & 8'), Rosy Boa (2')
Calif. Kingsnake (1.5'), Burmese Python (4'-10') and Redtail Boa's
(4'& 5') and not once have there ever been any problems. They 
all just sleep huddled together. Pooh is currently almost 4', but
started out at 2' living with the 8' Retic. Her current cagemate is 
a 4.5' redtail Boa and they alternate between sleeping together
and separately. 

Just my 2 cents :)

-- 
Birny Baker bxb@calmasd.prime.com

Xref: sparky rec.pets.herp:3580 rec.pets:3296
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp,rec.pets
Subject: Re: Turtles and salmonella?
Date: 16 Oct 92 15:55:01 GMT
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens

In article <14OCT199214082609@utrcv1> wjm@utrcv1 (Bill) writes:
>Whats the deal with turtles and salmonella?

Turtles carry salmonella, as do other reptiles and birds.  (It's very
common in chicken.)

>Is it all turtles?
>Is that why you can't buy them?

In the early 1970s there were cases of children getting salmonella by
putting turtles in their mouths (!) and the like.  This resulted on a ban
on selling turtles less than 4 inches long.  The ban is beneficial on
humanitarian grounds (a baby turtle's odds of surviving without expert
care are poor) but the salmonella hazard isn't really all that big.

>If I keep turtles, what precautions should I take regarding this?

Wash your hands after you handle them.  

My neighbor, a pathologist who is interested in reptiles, says that's
the only precaution needed.  The world is full of salmonella; that's why
we wash our hands before eating.  Turtles are not that big a hazard.
Most human salmonella comes from chicken meat.

-- 
:- Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu 
:- Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0359
:- The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349
:- Athens, Georgia 30602 U.S.A.          amateur radio N4TMI
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: frey@jeol.com (Mike Frey)
Subject: Lizard, Clown Agama, Questions
Organization: JEOL USA, Inc.
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 02:34:18 GMT

I recently purchased 2 lizards what the salesman called Clown Agamas.  They 
are about 13 cm nose to vent, tail about same length.  The coloring is brown 
and yellow in cross body bands, the yellow turns dark at night.  Some scales 
on their back turn light blue when they are warm and active.  The scales on 
their back and sides are rough.  They have triangular heads and eat crickets 
with voracity.

I was wondering if anyone had any more information about these lizards.  I
am interested in finding out more about their native habitat and possibly 
scientific name.

I am new to keeping lizards.  What is the normal feeding pattern?  I am
currently feeding 3-4 crickets coated with vitamins morning and night.  Is
this good for the lizards or should I feed them more less often?  I also
occasionally feed them green leaf lettuce, not iceberg, and feeder goldfish.  
Am I missing anything in their diet?

I would also like to know about and books or articles about Agamids in 
general and these specifically.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Mike Frey
frey@jeol.com
From: jknife@desire.wright.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Boa-keeping questions.
Date: 15 Oct 92 16:22:47 GMT
Organization: Wright State University



	Howdy, Herpers!


	I recently (last night) got a Boa.  This is the first boid I've ever
kept and I was just wondering if there are any special differences I should
know about.  I've got his tank heated with a heating pad under half and a light
in the daytime (always in the 79-85 degree range).  He's got a water bowl big
enough to soak in.  That's it, so far.  He always hags out on the heating pad
side of the tank, and often in the water bowl (I think it's a little warmer
than the outdoor carpet on the tank bottom).  I tried a thawed pinkie last
night, and he seemed interested but wouldn't take it.  
	Anything unusual about these snkes?  Special dietary needs or habits or
whatever?  Any info would be greatly appreciated.

	p.s. Just to clarify, I've kept other snakes -- just no boids.  So I
know all the general snake-care info.  Just looking for boa specifics.


	Thanks,
	Joe Knife
From: imb@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Test-do not read
Date: 8 Oct 92 18:57:18 GMT

This is merely a test. So don't read it. Sorry.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Terrible problem feeding the little bugger....
Reply-To: mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:31:41 GMT


	I started feeding the Albino Corn pinkies. They were large enough to
have hair. She would start to eat it but not finish. I called the person I
bought her from after the 3rd attempt (which she ignored completly). He said
maybe it's too big for her so I managed to get some of the smaller ones with no
hair. She does not look all that impressed by it....won't even look at it.
Yesterday I found her at the top of the tank(I have never found her there
before....don't even know how she got up there.) and that's where she was all
night. I have a towel in the tank and she is allways there....rarely does she
ever go out of that immediate area. It is about the 11th day of no food for
her. Is any of this making any sense to anyone....? Very frustrating....I had
lost an iguana years ago and I don't want to lose this snake.

                                               
                                                      Treky and Tabatha
							    N8VFZ

P.S.
----
Live long and prosper.                   

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: tracer@carson.u.washington.edu (David P. Tracer)
Subject: FOR SALE: 1.1 Scarlet Kingsnakes
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 07:09:21 GMT

As the subject says, I have 1 male & 1 female scarlet Kingsnakes
(_Lampropeltis triangulum elapsoides_) for sale.  Both are healthy and
feeding on pinkie/small fuzzy mice.  
These are truly beautiful animals, but I am paring down my collection and
have decided to no longer work with scarlet kings.
Asking price for the pair is $200.
Will ship Air Freight collect if necessary.
E-mail me directly if interested or for more information.
David.
From: laut@alien.gici.com (Bill Laut)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Me too:  Lizard FAQ wanted
Date: 12 Oct 92 00:07:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: alien.1992Oct11.200752.1
Organization: Gull Island Consultants, Inc.

In article <92283.143052COP80208@UCF1VM.BITNET>, COP80208@UCF1VM.BITNET writes:
> If there
> is a FAQ out there for lizards, I would appreciate it if someone could either
> post it or e-mail it to me.


	Please add me to the e-mail list if a lizard FAQ shows up.

-- 
Bill Laut			Internet:  laut@alien.gici.com
Gull Island Consultants, Inc.	Phone:     (616) 780-3321
P.O. Box 627
Muskegon, MI  49440		>> "Usual disclaimers, apply within" <<
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: stevep@wrq.com (Steve Poole)
Subject: Re: cageless iguana??
Organization: Walker Richer & Quinn
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1992 01:22:07 GMT

In article <92290.183148U10119@uicvm.uic.edu>, Ed Dowtort <U10119@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
> 
> i was curious if there was anything wrong with keeping an iguana in a room
> w/o a cage/aquarium?  i don't know how old mine is, but it's about 5-6" plus
> ...
> also, any tips on taming?  i've had it for over 3 weeks now, and it's still
> scared like hell of me.  should it allways have a place to hide?  or should
> i take it out?  for record, he's been eating fine since the first day.

Make sure that his basking spot is adequately heated and he should be just
fine.  He's likely to roam around at times and hide, but whether or not
you want to live with that is up to you.  There's probably nothing to worry
about, though, as long as you don't have a cat or dog in the room and there
are no places in which he can hide but you can't find him or he can't
get out of.

As for taming, lots of handling is the key.  Get him used to your presence
first, perhaps by sitting near him while he basks.  Let him be aware of
you, and that you aren't going to attack him, in this manner for a week or
so.  I think that many short episodes are probably better than several
long ones.  Once he accepts that you'll come near him, work on moving your
hands around him.  You can see the obvious progression, but I think that
the first step is an important one.

Also, sometimes the ig just plain and simple isn't going to want company.
Mine gets that way sometimes, running off and hiding or casting a warning
eye at me.  When he does, I either leave him alone or just talk to him
for a while, which usually settles him down.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: wjm@utrcv1 (Bill)
Subject: Turtles and salmonella?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: United Technologies Research Center
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 19:08:00 GMT

Whats the deal with turtles and salmonella?
Is it all turtles?
Is that why you can't buy them?
If I keep turtles, what precautions should I take regarding this?
What about Eastern Box turtles?  We used to have a couple for many years 
until they got out of their pen (or were taken?)

Thanks,
+ ><> + ><> + ><> + ><> + ><> + ><> + ><> + ><> + ><> + ><> +
+   __          United Technologies Research Center         +
+  /__)  . / /  Silver Lane MS 74, East Hartford, CT 06108  +
+ /___/_/_/_/_  (203) 727-7484  Internet = WJM@UTRC.UTC.COM +
+   Mazeika                                                 +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ God's got an army, not afraid to fight.                   +
+ Soldiers of the cross, and children of the light.         +
+ Warriors of righteousness, with healing in their hands.   +
+ God's got an army, marchin through the land.     -Carman  +
+ <>< + <>< + <>< + <>< + <>< + <>< + <>< + <>< + <>< + <>< +
From: treefrog@bass.bu.edu (susan landsman)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: iguanas
Date: 12 Oct 92 23:23:28 GMT
Reply-To: treefrog@bass.bu.edu (susan landsman)
Organization: Boston University


Does anyone know what the "normal" color/growth rate of colombian iguanas is?
I have one common iguana and one colombian; the latter is usually a much
darker green than the former.  I've heard various tales tying color to health,
which may be incorrect.  It seems to be eating well.

-Sue Landsman
(treefrog@bass.bu.edu)
From: dave@aficom.ocunix.on.ca (Dave Hunter)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Tofu O.K. for Iguanas?
Date: 11 Oct 92 14:17:35 GMT
Reply-To: dave@aficom.ocunix.on.ca (Dave Hunter)
Organization: AFI Communications - Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

browning@willard.nas.nasa.gov (David S. Browning) writes:

| My iguanas seem to enjoy tofu (firm variety).  Does anyone know the
| Calcium content?  The Calcium/Phosphorus ratio?
| 
My current Ig. does not much like tofu but a previous one did. Tofu is 
essentially soya bean curd and is rich in calcium. If your ig will eat 
it then by all means use it. It has been my experience that no single 
food item should be used to the exclusion of all others.

Each day I provide a bowl of food that contains leafy goodies such as 
collard greens, spinach, swiss chard, dandelion leaves and parsley. On 
top of this rich bed of veggies I place the treat of the day. This 
treat is basically anything I have lying around. Kidney beans (uncooked 
but washed) from last nights chili, macaroni, tofu, canned corn, peas, 
beans, hardboiled egg, cantelope, honey dew etc.

By using this method I can rest easy knowing that the basic nutrition
is being supplied by the leafy stuff, and an added bonus is being 
provided in the treat. I feel that this variety keeps the ig content as 
we try to simulate how it would do in the wild as it forages for food 
from area to area. 

Common sense must prevail when deceiding if a food is appropriate.
Whenever possible the treats should be uncooked and washed. In the case 
of macaroni obviously it needs to be cooked but does not necessarily
need an accompanying tomatoe sauce. :-)

Good luck.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: iguana@nmt.edu (Shawn Clever)
Subject: Iguana parentage?
Keywords: Are they cruel to their young?
Organization: New Mexico Tech
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:34:06 GMT

I have a question for you iguana breeders out there... What is your experience
with your adult iguanas and their young?  Are they protective of their
newborn young, disinterested, or hostile?  If one of the three I have produces
some at some point, should I separate the hatchlings from the adults?


Forgive my ignorance on this issue, but I have yet to experience this problem
but I thought I would start thinking on it before they "feel the need" in a 
year or two.


Thanks.

Shawn Clever

.
From: nvonstein@memstvx1.memst.edu
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Vitamin Supplements?
Date: 15 Oct 92 12:20:56 -0600
Organization: Memphis State University

In article <1992Oct15.160407.22277@athena.cs.uga.edu>, mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
> The main difference between reptiles and humans is that their vitamin D
> is different (D2 versus D3, I think).  On this point, reptiles are the
> same as birds, so vitamins designed for birds would do.  Tetra makes
> a special vitamin supplement for reptiles ("Reptovit" or something like
> that) which I've been using occasionally with great success... if a
> reptile seems to be losing its appetite, I give it some vitamins.
> 
> -- 
> :- Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu 
> :- Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0359
> :- The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349
> :- Athens, Georgia 30602 U.S.A.          amateur radio N4TMI


The reptile vitamin supplement I have from Tetra is Reptical or Reptacal (same thing?).
Anyway one thing I noticed yesterday though as I sprinkled some out, a few clumps fell
out of the package.  I thought I could just break them up by smashing with my
fingertip - no way!  Hard as a rock!  I now throw these large pieces away -
afraid of internal damage to my ig.

Nancy VonStein
From: mwaldvog@ent1.ent.ncsu.edu (Michael Waldvogel)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: SNAKE BAN
Date: 12 Oct 92 11:05:02 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Entomology - NCSU, Raleigh, NC
Originator: mwaldvog@ent1.ent.ncsu.edu

There was a news clip in the "Raleigh (NC) News & Observer" over the
weekend that the town of Wrightsville Beach, NC (on the coast) has 
banned people from carrying snakes along its beach.  They claimed that
the ban was in line with their 'leash law' for other pets.  Apparently,
there were complaints by individuals who had been scared by people who
were strolling along the beach with their reptiles.


Kit..... you out there????


Mike Waldvogel

-- 
| Michael Waldvogel  - waldvogel@ent.ncsu.edu |
| Dept. of Entomology, N.C. State University  |
| Raleigh, North Carolina  27695-7613         |
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: Terrible problem feeding the little bugger....
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 16:33:22 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.153141.20161@ultb.isc.rit.edu> mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:
>
>	I started feeding the Albino Corn pinkies. They were large enough to
>have hair. She would start to eat it but not finish. I called the person I
>bought her from after the 3rd attempt (which she ignored completly). He said
>maybe it's too big for her so I managed to get some of the smaller ones with
>no hair. She does not look all that impressed by it....won't even look at it.
>Yesterday I found her at the top of the tank(I have never found her there
>before....don't even know how she got up there.) and that's where she was all
>night. I have a towel in the tank and she is allways there....rarely does she
>ever go out of that immediate area. It is about the 11th day of no food for
>her. Is any of this making any sense to anyone....? Very frustrating....I had
>lost an iguana years ago and I don't want to lose this snake.

IMHO, coming up to the top of the tank means your little corn is actively 
looking around for food.  That's good.  Your problem is to convince it that 
the pinkies you put in *are* food.  After I make sure the temperature is 
right for my snake to eat (82-84F), I get some blood on the pinky.  It's the 
surest way I know to persuade him to eat because blood smells like food to 
him.

WARNING:  Another gruesome description coming up.

Here's how I get blood on the pinky.  Take a live pinky and crush the skull
with forceps, tweezers, edge of a tin can, etc.  Tear the skin off the top of
the head (with tweezers, by preference), and put the pinky in with the snake.
Turn off the room lights, and leave the snake with the pinky for several hours
to overnight.  Check, carefully avoiding disturbing the snake, to see if the 
pinky has been eaten.  If not, throw the dead pinky away.  Repeat every 
couple of days until the snake eats.

BTW, this is the terminology for baby mice, at least as I understand and 
use it:

Pinkie - less than a week old; no hair although dark roots may show.
Fuzzy - 7 to 12 days old; fur is present but the eyes haven't opened.
Hopper - 13 to 20 days old; eyes are open but not weaned.
Weanling - 21 to 30 days; weaned.
Juvenile - 30 to 45 days old; not sexually mature.
Adult - >45 days; sexually mature.

Good luck.

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.



Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: maiolojj@cda.mrs.umn.edu (Joshua J. Maiolo 1406233)
Subject: Cage mate for a Boa?
Organization: University of Minnesota - Morris
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 01:47:08 GMT


Hey Netters!

I've got a question for ya.  I just finished building a rather large
cage for my Boa (Columbian "Red-Tail") who is only about 4 ft long.
The Cage itself is 3.5 ft wide, 5ft long, and just under 3ft tall.
It's all wood with a hinged glass door.  Heat is supplied during the
day by a couple of lights, and at night by a "pig-blanket".  What I've
been thinking, is that I'd love to have another snake, something other
than a Boa, but something that I could keep in the cage with it's
present occupant.  Am I out of my mind, or are there compatible cage 
mates out there.  Something not TOO expensive.  I am a lowly college
student, after all.  
   
Happy Herping!

========================================================================
==  Love and Peace and Other Indoor Sports ==  Josh Maiolo   a.k.a.   ==
==                                         == maiolojj@cda.mrs.umn.edu =
==  We play the part of heroes because     == maiolojj@cab.mrs.umn.edu =
== we're cowards, the part of saints because  ==========================
== we're wicked: we play the killer's role because we're dying to     ==
== murder our fellow man: we play at being because we're liars from   ==
== the moment we're born.      -- Jean-Paul Sartre                    ==
========================================================================
From: pals@ipact.com
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Terrible problem feeding the little bugger....
Date: 13 Oct 92 16:44:17 CDT
Organization: IPACT, Valparaiso IN

One thing I neglected to mention with regard to force feeding.  An
easy way to start is to force feed the snake a small (1/2" to 3/4")
section from the tail of an adult mouse.  This is (of course) easier
to do than force feeding a pinky, and may get the snake started eating
or give the novice force feeder a bit more confidence before
proceeding to pinkies.

-- 
Randy Pals                |pals@ipact.com
IPACT, Inc.               |
From: tracer@carson.u.washington.edu (David P. Tracer)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Cage mates...
Date: 16 Oct 92 20:14:48 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

In article <1992Oct15.132555.20779@ultb.isc.rit.edu> mds5597@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:
>	I thought that it was dangerous to keep more then one snake in a cage
>at a time. 

Though it's certainly not desirable in terms of hygiene, it is not
necessarily dangerous unless one of the snakes is ophidiophagous (a
snake-eater) like some kingsnakes.

>What do you do when you feed them?

Remove one of the snakes from the cage.  (Even non-ophidiophagous
ophidians can become ophidiophagous ophidians accidently!  Now try to say
that ten times fast :-)   )
From: mjuhola@samson.hac.com (Markku Juhola)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Cage mate for a Boa?
Date: 14 Oct 92 19:01:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: hacgate.23640
Reply-To: mjuhola@samson.hac.com%hac2arpa
Organization: Hughes Training Incorporated, WCO


     A friend of mine had a Red Tail Boa that he kept with his Green Iguana for several years.  Of course, he kept the Boa well fed and the Iguana was a pretty good sized herp.  This was quite a few years back, so the details might be a little fuzzy.  I believe the snake was about five to six feet long (possibly longer?) and the Iguana was about two and a half to three feet long.  As long as he had them there were no problems.  Eventually, he sold the Iguana and the snake (my its soul rest in peace) died f



rom a back injury.  It fell out of a tree.  Oh, well.

Hope this helps.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Markku T. Juhola
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kyle@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Kyle Wohlmut)
Subject: Re: can reptiles sneeze?
Followup-To: rec.pets.herp
Organization: Rocking Pig Enterprises
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 18:05:22 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.225925.16627@reed.edu> mojo@reed.edu (Treacle, mostly.) writes:
>
>One of my ball pythons did something like sneezing---a sort of convulsive
>forced exhalation---when he had a respiratory infection.  I don't know if it
>meets the technical definition of sneezing or not.

I saw one of my ball pythons do this now and then while suffering a
slight respiratory infection, too.  I think this qualifies as
sneezing.  I -think- my Burmese did it once too, but wasn't looking
right at her at the time, just heard this little cough and felt (yes,
actually -felt-) this little puff of air on my neck.
As far as the Pythons go, they do yawn all the time, and near as I can
tell it's the same yawn response as in humans (sleepy little buggers,
aren't they).

/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-
                       /
/'''                   -         i am as sad as the song
c-OO    Kyle Wohlmut   /         of a soudanese jackal
   \    (actual size)  -         who is wailing for the blood red
  -                    /         moon he cannot reach and rip
                       -