HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Chevy 194
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 22:02:19 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 17:02:14
X-Sequence: 3210
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


-> BTW, Geof Evans, one of our Australian correspondents, is in the USA
-> on vacation.  He is coming to Pennsylvania today and will stop by for
-> dinner. His tour plan is to go south from here to Florida, then west
-> across the southern tier states to California.  I'll give him your
-> regards.

 By car?  Migawd, that's a killing trip.  I've made the
Sacramento-to-Tampa and v.versa run several times.   If he swings up
through Arkansas tell 'im to drop in for a visit.
                                                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: fuel pressure control
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 20:41:46 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 12 15:41:42
X-Sequence: 3400
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

I'm looking for some type of analog flow control valve that I can install
in the fuel return line on a port EFI system. A stepper motor valve, or
something similiar would be great. I'd like to be able to resitrict the
fuel return (from the regulator) in order to get increased fuel pressure
and flow. I suppose I could do PWM with a commom selenoid valve. but
would probably need a fuel pressure accumulator in order to avoid major
pulses in the fuel pressure. Does anyone use this system to increase fuel
delivery on a factory fuel injection motor? I'd like to avoid larger
injectors and trying to figure out how to alter the factory fuel delivery
maps. From what I've seen, larger injectors often make it difficult to
get a smooth stable idle speed also. Once their pulse width gets shorter
than a specified amount, the volume of fuel delivered gets very erratic.

Greg
gag@arlvax.psu.edu

[Higher fuel pressure does not do a whole lot for you because the flow
across the orfice of the injector is a square law function and because
it increases the opening delay of the injector which  is highly
counter-productive.  If you do want to mess with fuel pressure, the 
place to do it is in the regulator and not on the downstream line.
If you use external input to set the setpoint of the regulator, you
retain the feedback control inherent in the regulator.

I have built several electrically controlled pressure regulator
valves for various purposes.  The easiest way is to get a linear
stepper motor, Airpax makes good, cheap ones, and use the armature to
replace the setpoint screw to press on the regulating spring.  You should
be able to take a stock regulator, cut the very end of top off carefully
with a tubing cutter and epoxy a motor on.  Or even silver solder
a mount if you submerge the rest of the regulator in water to keep
the diaphram cool.  

One thing you have to watch is the fact that the current drawn by the 
fuel pump rises directly with pressure.  Make sure you're not going
to smoke anything with the added current.  Particularly important if 
your ECU controls the speed of the fuel pump.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: GREG GRANVILLE <emory!arlvax.psu.edu!GAG>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re : Humvee
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 02:18:23 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Wednesday, Jan 06 21:18:20
X-Sequence: 3219
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


The B does tend to stand a little tall in the saddle. However, one of the new
smaller V-6 diesels that are floating around the Tech Center in development
might just be the ticket.

----------
Posted by: emory!ctccummins.cummins.com!cr00jsa (J S Armfield)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: humvee
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 03:53:04 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 05 22:52:47
X-Sequence: 3190
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

I would think that the Cummins Turbo Diesel would work
very nicely in a HumVee.
-Merv

----------
Posted by: emory!MAINE.maine.edu!IO10702
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: Mo Compression
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 01:53:51 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 11 20:53:48
X-Sequence: 3365
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

> 
> The problem I have with emissions and high compression (or most any
> performance enhancement) is that I can always get all but one of the
> emissions in spec.  When running high compression, the HC and CO is low,
> showing good efficiency, but I always have NOx out of sight. So then I
> start backing off the timing and using the EGR to "cool" the combustion,
> and the HCs start to go up.  It is much easier to control with the EFI
> systems than a carb, but it is still a problem.  I wish I could get alcohol

Not necessarily EFI, but at least a feedback carb and 3-way (NOx reducing)
catalyst.  What are you calling high compression, btw?  To meet NOx emission
with 11:1 while running natrual gas, I'm having to use a pair of prototype
GM pulse width modulated electric EGR valves, experimental (methane
reducing) cats, and a closed loop carb.  The closed loop carbs I've found
for CNG are at best fairly unreliable, tho (the last lime the vehicle
was test, NOx and HC were great, CO was off the scale :((( ).
Anyway, with 11.5:1 or so on gasoline, with closed loop mixture control
and 3-way cats, you ought to be able meet emission without a whole lot of
headaches.  Timing would obviously be retarded from MBT, But that would
only be in the load ranges covered by the emissions test.  You probably
won't need anything like the trick PWM valves I'm using for EGR, just
a adequately sized backpressure type valve.


-- 
Jon Lusky
lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu

 79 Rx-7 12A/Holley 4bbl
 67 Camaro/350/4spd (under construction)
 89 Jeep Wrangler/258 (currently self destructing)

----------
Posted by: emory!gnu.ai.mit.edu!lusky
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: RE: 351C trivia...
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 08:04:59 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 12 03:04:53
X-Sequence: 3384
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

Reply to: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 
> It's been too cold and rainy lately.  I'm debating whether to cast up
>a Hilborn-style injector intake for the 351.  It's right at the outer
>limit of my present capabilities, but no pain, no gain, right?  <grin>
 
Hey that's interesting - over here we don't have many "street machines"
that run injection because it is so costly (probably due to the fact
that Ford has only re-introduced the V8 and 10 years ago they were all
carby versions). Is this the intake with the "stacks"?
 
What are you mating it to, 4V heads?
 
> If it weren't for the fact that I can't buy aluminum plate around
>here, it'd be simpler to fabricate from that.  I can cast it, of course,
>which is probably what I'll do - cast the valley cover, then the sides
>complete with stubs, then have them welded together.  It would save a
>wad of loose sand cores.
 
Too bad that - our state has the biggest aluminium smelter in Australia
and my father works in a petrol tanker shop so there is always heaps
(literally) of aluminium lying around his place. Them's the breaks, I
suppose. Maybe I should take it up, sounds quite interesting - trouble
is I wouldn't know where to start.
 

----------
Posted by: Mark Jose <emory!werple.apana.org.au!speednut>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re:  Solid Lifters?
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 93 18:09:55 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 04 13:08:29
X-Sequence: 3169
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


> As for the cam:  should I try to go with solid lifters?  My dad wants me
> to put a solid lifter cam.  Would this be wise?  All opinions and info would
> be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.
> Tom McClendon
> gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

If you are the same kind of person who would put a dual-point distributor
in instead of some kind of HEI just so you can adjust the points every
weekend, then go for it.  IMHO, you should probably look into a roller cam
and lifters (Unless you LIKE yanking the valve covers every 2-4 weeks to set
the valve lash.)
My opinion, file accordingly,
Dean
erd1!dean@sierra.com

----------
Posted by: emory!sierra.com!erd1!dean (Dean Thompson)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: oxygenated fuel / super unleaded
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 04:03:13 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 05 23:02:57
X-Sequence: 3191
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


          Actually, the oxygenated fuel is a result of the Federal Clean 
          Air Act to reduce hydrocarbons and ozone depletion.  The 
          requirement is by county and is based upon pollutant readings 
          taken by state level EPA contractors.  Thus, here in North 
          Carolina, Wake county has a 4 month period, while next door 
          Chatham county has none.
          
          This is a mere bandaid to the problem, and the method of reading 
          air quality is under scrutiny.  Bush and Congress fought over the 
          Clean Air Act implementation for several years while nothing got 
          done.  Now we have a mostly cosmetic solution although it is 
          better than nothing.  We need to include industry, and help them 
          with the cost if they have legitimate need.
          
          Well, this is why those of us contracted by the EPA refer to the 
          legislation as the "Mostly Clean Air Act."  Let's hope when 
          Clinton elevates Carol Browner (new EPA Administrator) to a 
          Cabinet position that we'll get more serious about the largest 
          sources of pollution (not the hotrodders who are few and keep 
          their cars tuned and clean).
          
          Eric

----------
Posted by: ERIC WEBB 919-541-7896 <emory!epamail.epa.gov!WEBB.ERIC>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: RE: 351C trivia...
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 23:17:18 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 18:17:13
X-Sequence: 3302
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

Mike Jamison writes:
"Just for shits and giggles, I tried measuring the wall thickness of my block.
I was able to get a 0.125" allen wrench to barely fit between the cylinders
(# 7 and 8).  Bore to bore, measured from the top, was 0.360".  0.36 - 0.125
= 0.235.  Guestimated wall thickness is 0.12", but only at that one point.
I can't see any non-destructive way of measuring the wall thickness, unless
something like ultrasound would work (moot point:  I don't have access to
anything like that).  Any idea of how valid my measurement is, with respect
to the rest of the bore?"

Sounds very plausible.  I had a Chevy 350 block sonic tested (look in
the Yellow Pages under Testing Labs) and found that the thinnest
part of the wall was .140 (before boring).  This was down low where
the side thrust isn't much of a factor so I was happy.  The test is
non-invasive and non-destructive.  It may rust your cylinder walls
a bit because they use (at least in my case) a water-soluble
solution to get good acoustic contact between the transducer and
the cylinder wall.  BTW, take a hand truck with the block - these
guys weren't used to dealing with 165 pound chunks of iron.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net

----------
Posted by: emory!ucsd.edu!btree!hale (Bob Hale)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: rod side clearance
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 19:50:32 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 12 14:50:26
X-Sequence: 3394
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


->      after they polish and grind and shot peen, they want about
->      $600 just for rods. I'd go the Olds route but what engine for
-> cores.

 You want any Olds short-deck except the Diesels.  The 331-350 rods
should be fine, but the 403 rod is considerably beefier and made of a
better material to boot.

 The nominal width on the Olds rods is .935, vs .940-.947 for the Chevy,
depending on whose book you look at.  You have to turn the Chevy crank
down .007, then use .030 undersize Olds bearings.  .040 undersize Chevy
bearings are readily available, but I haven't found any .040 Olds yet,
so until I do this is a one-shot deal.

 The pin end is .980, the Chevy is .927.  You'll need to have the small
ends bushed, which any competent automotive machine shop can do.  You'll
have to run pistons that have snap ring grooves for pin retention (most
hipo pistons do) or have the grooves cut (which I've had bad luck with)
or use aluminum thrust buttons (the best option IMHO).

 I've given some thought to having some metal brazed inside the big end
bores, then bored to *Chevy* rod bearing size when the rods are rebuilt
- this is only $8 per rod here, and would eliminate the Olds bearing
size problem.

 Options, options.....   <grin>
                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: iron to aluminum glide conversion
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 09:19:07 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 05 04:18:59
X-Sequence: 3174
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


>-> Hope the block is not an early specimen with no bolt bosses cast in.

> That reminds me.  When did Chevrolet drop the straddle mount
>configuration?  I know it came out in '55, and my '60 would use it if it
>had a V8, and I know they had converted to the side mounts by '65.  I
>had this idea the changeover was around 1961-1962?  (???)

> The front bolt bosses came back in '68 on the 350 so they could mount
The 2 per side bolt holes never went anywhere. They were still on the
last mousemotor block I looked at :-) seems to me that the first year
of side mounts was '58. Anyone? The only '60s stuff to usethe front location
was 1960 pickups and lotsa 3-5 ton stuff for lotsa years *cant remember*
but Ive used the truck bracket on quite a few swaps over the years.


>the power steering and stuff more easily, so there were only a few years
>there without the front bosses.

> I think the mounting holes on the front of the cylinder heads also
>appeared in '68.  (?)  At one time I knew all this stuff, but it was
              ^^^^^^or 69?? 
>                    

Jim Davies 

----------
Posted by: emory!fraser.sfu.ca!jimd (Jim Davies)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: no performance but...
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 20:18:58 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 15:18:55
X-Sequence: 3235
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

looks like wendy is buying a Toyota 4x4 v6 40000 miles

I'll be looking it over as closely as possible. it's a '89.

If you know of any real trouble spots to check out, Please

forward any info   thanks!

bozek@umaecs.edu

[Please reply to him directly if you can.  Thanks. JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!ecs.umass.edu!BOZEK
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: re: HP absorber thought
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 22:12:34 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Tuesday, Jan 12 17:12:29
X-Sequence: 3407
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

>  No problem.  I found an appropriate inline shaft torque sensor for
> around $100, which I figured was cheap enough.  Beats the heck out of
> mounting the brake itself on gimbals and using a spring like inna ole
> days.

Funny how a problem can get a lot of people thinking.  I was laying awake last
night thinking about this one.  The torque one is easy.  Mount a disk with a 
single hole in it on each end of the drive shaft (not an automotive drive shaft,
the piece of metal you are using to connect the engine to the load) such that the
holes align.  Mount optical interruptors on the disks, then use the AND'ed output 
to tell you how much the shaft has twisted (the pulse width as a percentage of
total rotation time will get smaller as the shaft twists.)  Circuitry couldn't 
be easier and the thing should be pretty  easy to calibrate.  Personally, I 
would pipe the output into a PC and let it measure the deltas.

The load is indeed harder.  Here's a thought that would be really bulky but pretty
cheap.  Rig several old V-8s as compressors and drive them from the engine under
test.  One problem with this approach is that the load would likely be too "lumpy"
and destroy everything in oscillations.  The setup would be easy enough to cool,
and the load should be pretty adjustable.  Now, the question is, how many V-8's
would it take to absorbe 400 hp, and does anybody have that much room on their
lot?  (Actually, I would feel blessed if I could absorb 200 hp, as I only work
with 4 cyl.)

On a slightly different note, has anybody ever tried to use AC through a
television type flyback transformer for ignition?  This is another middle
of the night brainchild, so it probably has extremely limited value.

paul



----------
Posted by: emory!ic.MENTORG.COM!pstoaks (Paul Stoaks)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Open/Closed Loops
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 21:22:05 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 16:22:01
X-Sequence: 3289
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

          What are the definitions of open and closed loop?  thanks.

          Eric


closed loop systems monitor the output and adjust the system until
a proper output is obtained.  open loop system's dont - you
calibrate the system, then let it go.  over time, the open loop
system will start losing calibration, but a closed loop system
can adjust for spurious/erroneous errors and correct for them.
closed loop is almost always prefered.
-tim


----------
Posted by: emory!spbted.gatech.edu!tdrury
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re:  Clutched Auto's
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 93 23:26:06 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 08 18:26:03
X-Sequence: 3303
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

Why not just develop a transmission control system that would disengage for you when it sensed something like foot off the throttle and brakes applied and vehicle speed less than some threshold. I'm familiar with the algorithms that the 
Bosch Tiptronic goes through to control only shifting and, in comparison, this
would be a piece of cake.

----------
Posted by: emory!uunet.UU.NET!cec1!ctccummins!cr00jsa (J S Armfield)
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
Subject: Re: octane stuff
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 93 20:55:13 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Thursday, Jan 07 15:55:10
X-Sequence: 3239
X-Gifs-To: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-Gifs-From: ftp.nau.edu

        Reply to:   RE>octane stuff
I've had a lot of interest in the "home brew" octane boosters stuff I posted
earlier.  I probably need to make a discalimer here ....
  Some of these "home brews" will attack plastic and some alloys (especially
the Methanol ... see John's tail of the chain saw).

Basically, I posted it so people could see that a little 6 oz. can of "Miracle
Soooper Doooper Blaster Octane Power Booster (now with more Testosterone!)"
can't do much towards truly changing the octane ratings.  Most of the time this
stuff just makes your wallet lighter.  There are some products out there that
will work, but they are usually expensive and aren't any different than the
"home brew" recipe.

Also, much of this information came from Rich Lassitter, the president of the
Buick Gran Sport Club of Americ (GSCA), who is a chemical engineer ... hence,
full of interesting data regarding this stuff.  With the Turbo motor, octane is
life or death!  I normally just run the Sunoco Racing Gas when I get serious or
go racing.  Otherwise, I can get Unleaded GT for the street.  Sometimes I joke
that the following equation describes the Turbo Buick physical law #1:

High Boost + Insufficient Octane + Timing advance = Shiny Metal parts all over
the street!

I've played with the Toulene ... works really well and seems to be pretty easy
on O2 sensors.  However, it's getting harder and harder to get the stuff, since
Nebraska is now requiring all sorts of paperwork to buy "hazardous" materials. 
Bulk stuff has to be delivered to a business address ... what a pain!  I can
still get Toulene in gallon increments from parts stores and (some paint
stores!), but it costs $6-$8 per gallon... just as well buy the race gas @
$3.50 per gallon.

BTW, Ethanol bleneded gasoline (10%) is sold at every gas station in this area
(after all, we are smack in the middle of the corn belt).  It is usually the
"cheap" unleaded at the pump (since 10% Ethanol blended gas gets tax breaks
around here) and is 89-90 octane.  I seems to work pretty well in my other
cars, but I stick to 92 (or better) octane fuels for my GN.

-- Ken Mosher
-- Buick Grand National:  A *BOOST* of Buick Performance.


----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" <emory!imd.sterling.com!Ken_Mosher>
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod