HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Dado Blades?
Date: 15 Oct 92 19:47:50 GMT
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I tried an excalaber data; but, returned it in favor of a Freud 8" stacking
set.

The exc was the best wobble dado I've tried. It made the cleanest cut and
left the flatest bottom (for a wobbler); but, I wanted someting better.

The Freud set isn't perfict eather; but, the cut is cleaner than the exc.
and it leaves the smallest sholders of any dado I've tried.

In general I prefure stackers to wobblers becase:

        1. Stackers leave a better (easier to finish) bottom.

        2. Stackers are much easier to set, and reset to a specific width
           (e.g.: exactly 3/8").

        3. Stackers don't cause as much saw vibration or put as much strain
           on the motor shaft.


There is no perfict dado, the best you can hope for is a compromise you can
live with.

                                Ron Tye (all opinions my own)
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: General vs. Powermatic
Keywords: general, powermatic
Date: 9 Oct 92 02:24:14 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Oct07.153105.122943@watson.ibm.com> clarke@watson.ibm.com (Ed Clarke) writes:
|In article <3861@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:

||> Yes, quite a bit of beer.  But gawd, it's expensive.  Beaver tails
||> are cheaper and keep you warmer.

|Ok, how about posting a recipe to rec.food.drink?  And how do you keep 
|PETA from complaining about all those tailless beavers, eh?  Is a
|table saw or radial arm saw better for the amputations or should I go
|back to Roy Underhill methods and use a broad-axe?

They do it with a deep fryer.  Then they add cinnimon on top.

Yum!  A perfect end to skating on the canal.

PETA?  Why do you think we chainsaw holes in the ice?
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
From: ddeutsch@bbn.com (Debra Deutsch)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Stones used for honing - Question
Date: 16 Oct 1992 14:18:50 GMT
NNTP-Posting-Host: bbn.com

tlaughli@star-trek.bbn.com (Tom Laughlin) writes:


>Working with hand tools is new to me.  The process of flattening the back side
>of chisels and plane blades is a lengthy one, at least for me anyway.  I very
>pleased with the results once done but I'd very much like to reduce the time
>to get there.

>What I'd like to get from the newgroup is a summary of the types of
>stones offered.  To date I know of 4 - oil, wet, diamond and ceramic.

>I have 4 stones - 3 oil and 1 diamond.  My oil stones are medium, fine and
>very fine.  Don't know the grits off hand.  My diamond stone is medium.

Not all grits are created equal.  For example, a fine diamond stone is
much coarser than a fine water stone.  It's better to compare the way
stones work than to compare the way they are labeled :-).

>During the flattening process how many grits should be used coarse, medium,
>fine and very fine?

Most of the flattening process is done on a very coarse stone.  Once
you get the back flat and free of its original grinding marks, you
can switch to finer and finer stones until the back is nice and shiny.
Note that you don't have to do the entire back of the chisel.  I was
taught that flatting the third closest to the cutting edge is
sufficient. A plane blade needs even less flatting.

>How long can I expect a diamond stone to last?  It seems that the ability
>to cut has been reduced since new.

Have you washed it off?  If you have been using your diamond stone
dry, it is probably getting clogged.  You can wash your diamond stone
using water.  No special precautions or procedures are needed.

>All of my oil stones seem to have lost the ability to cut or scratch.  What is
>the process to bring them back to the orignal grit?

Are you sure that you have been using enough oil on your stones?  You
are supposed to be generous.  The stone shouldn't just feel oily,
there should be oil puddled across its top.  If you haven't been using
enough oil you can clog the stone pretty quickly.  If this is what has
happened, I don't know how to undo it.

>I am willing to invest more $ in a quicker method to achieving a flat surface.
>Should I spend it on wet stones or diamond stones?

A coarse (e.g. 200 grit) waterstone works a lot quicker than the oil
stones I've used.  Be sure you really soak the waterstone first and
keep it wet while working with it.  Between uses make sure that the
waterstone is still flat - check it across the diagonals with a good
straightedge.  You can flatten a waterstone pretty easily if (when) it
gets concave.  There are a number of methods, all involving a flat
surface and some form of abrasive.  Plate glass and coarse grinding
abrasives are one way to do it.

>I requested I'll post the results.

>Tom Laughlin (tlaughli@mystery.bbn.com)

Tom, we've got to stop meeting like this.  What will the other people
in our department think? :-)

Debbie
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 16 Oct 1992 12:16:50 -0400
From:         MARK SCARINZI <E7P2SCA@TOWSONVX.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Wood Moisture Meters

Fine Woodworking has an article with schematic fo a moisture meter.  There is al
   so a follow up letter with a battery check to add.  I can get you the issue o
   n Monday.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: clarke@acme.ucf.edu (Thomas Clarke)
Subject: Re: Wood selection and purchase
Organization: University of Central Florida
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:10:54 GMT

Slightly off topic, but I bought some cherry from Steve Wall
lumber co in North Carlonia (Address in Fine Woodworking).
Wall had a sale on "log-run" cherry, planed two sides, 90 cents
a board foot in 100 bf quantities.  About to embark on a 
bedroom set project, dressers, end tables and bed, I 
thought, "The price is right, what the hell.  If its junk I can
use it as firewood.  You can't get pine for 90 cents a bf hardly."

So I ordered 200 bf, and some weeks later it arrived and shipping
was about $30.  - I should have had it delivered to my house instead
of picking it up at the terminal though.  I expected 6 to 8 foot
pieces - I hoped for pieces long enough for bed rails - instead they
were all 16 feet or longer!

Some knots and splits in the wood, but could be worked around and 
some pieces had nice little knots (cherry birds eye?).  Some pieces
immediately preceeded to warp in the Florida humidity, but I
was very satisfied with the wood.

I had lots of fun choosing which board for which part and the
furniture is now finished.  I think it looks good (clever the
way I used warped pieces for drawer fronts so that the dressers
subtly bulge outward at the front :-)  

All, in all, I wish big cherry trees grew in Florida so I could go 
down to a mill and pick out my own boards.  I was not unpleased with
the results of ordering bargain lumber sight-unseen, however.  
--
Thomas Clarke
Institute for Simulation and Training, University of Central FL
12424 Research Parkway, Suite 300, Orlando, FL 32826
(407)658-5030, FAX: (407)658-5059, clarke@acme.ucf.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Delta contractor's saw
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Distribution: rec.woodworking
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 17:33:21 GMT

billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson) writes:

>mfb@metropolis.super.org (Michael F. Bridgland) writes:
>: 
>: The saw is now assembled, and generally is satisfactory. The Jet-Lock
>: fence is a bad joke, but that came as no surprise, because of what
>: others have written about it. Adjustments to the saw itself are
>: simple, with two exceptions. The blade guard adjustment is just plain
>: clumsy. And the manual does not explain how to align the blade
>: to the table slots.  Supposedly this was done at the factory, but the
>: blade is not parallel to the slots. Casual measurement reveals a
>: difference of several thousandths of an inch (perhaps as much as
>: .01'', but I haven't measured carefully yet) between the blade-to-slot
>: distances at the front and back of the blade.

>I doubt seriously if you need better alignment that with .01". It
>certainly would be a matter of trial and error to do much better.

>Bill

I have to disagree with this. Remember that we have discussed here
amounts like .015" for the amount one might TRY to get the rip fence
to clear more at the back. The rip fence is much harder to do that
precisely than the adjustment Michael is talking about, since the
fence is always getting moved around or taken off and replaced. I
think it is reasonable to aim for no more than .005" here, and try to
do better. Duginske's technique for this involves how the blade sounds
when brushing against something, because a tiny change makes a very
noticable sound difference.
I realize much work can be done with some slop in the tools. Many
miter gauges are left with more than this amount of play between the
bar and the slot, so greater precision in this case would be wasted. I
just don't want to have to worry about the machine slop as another
variable: I am not claiming that the finished piece of wood will be
stable within these tolerances as humidity, temperature, and probably
the location of Jupiter all have their way.
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mikejb@mail.boi.hp.com (Mike Beymer)
Subject: Re: engine-oiled cherry
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 22:19:59 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Tom Saksa (saksa@col.hp.com) wrote:
: "craig treleaven" <craig.treleaven@canrem.com> writes:
: > UN:
: > 
: 
: I have also been told that the old timers use oven cleaner as a
: "trick" to remove oil from wood.  The person who told me claimed
: that it worked well.  However, I just could just not bring myself
: to try this on a nice piece of wood.  
: 
  Oven cleaner on cherry has a interesting reaction. It tends the age the wood
  The lye in the cherry has some kind of reaction with the wood. The end result
  is a dark wood looking 100 years old. 
 

  

===============================================================================
    Mike Beymer                                    _/    _/    _____/
    Hewlett Packard                               _/    _/    _/  _/
    Boise Site Operations                        _/___/_/    _/___/
    Tel (208) 323-5936                          _/    _/    _/
    Fax (208) 323-4988                         _/    _/    _/
    E-mail mikejb@hpbs2561.boi.hp.com
From: boykin@gte.com (Joseph Boykin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Reasons for owning a planer (was Re: Red Oak in Bulk)
Date: 15 Oct 92 14:56:51 GMT
Reply-To: boykin@gte.com
Distribution: usa
Organization: GTE Laboratories

In article <138609@lll-winken.LLNL.GOV>, gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot) writes:
|> In article <1992Oct9.222611.10752@adobe.com>, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
|> Tage Frid says, with considerable justification I'd say, that you should
|> joint, plane, and glue within a couple of days.

This brings up a question: Let's say I have an 8+" piece of wood
to plane but I have a 4" jointer.  Anyone have any good techniques
for doing this?

jb
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re:      Delta contractor's saw
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 01:30:37 GMT

In article <Bvs1Bo.323@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> jjoslin@kingcong.UWaterloo.ca (Jeff Joslin) writes:
>DAVID FARR <dfarr@ASRR.ARSUSDA.GOV> writes:
>>I asked Delta about the alignment of the slots with the blade.  This is
>>a factory setting.  If the saw does not meet the manufactures
>>specifications then you will have to return saw to Delta for realignment.
>>
>Nah.  My Delta Cabinet saw (which has the same top and arbor assembly as the
>contractor's saw) was a bit out of alignment too.  I simply loosened the
>four bolts that attached the trunnions to the underside of the top, tapped
>it lightly to move the assembly in the right direction, tightened up the
>bolts, and checked the alignment again.  I was lucky enough to get it right
>the first time.  But even if it takes a few iterations, it's no big deal.
>I have no idea why the procedure isn't explained in the manual.

Jeff is bang-on. This is exactly the procedure described in the owner's
manual for the Grizzly G1022 table saw. I suspect that the person you
spoke to at Delta simply didn't know what they were talking about. I
would doubt that this is official company policy, but I could *easily*
be wrong. If I learned from my mistakes, I'd be the smartest man alive!

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: Followup to Recommendation
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 02:34:46 GMT

jeff roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET> writes:

>On Wed, 14 Oct 1992 00:05:19 -0500 <tennis@ZIFF.COM> said:
>>In article <9OCT199210570085@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov>,
>>kimnach@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH) writes:
>>> Now a question: I like the idea of the tilting head design of the Craftsman
>>> bandsaws (seems much safer).  What's the net concensus on these?
>>
>>I own a Sears tilting head bandsaw.  It is the expensive model with the
>>digital readout.
>>
>>People, this saw BLOWS.  Hard to adjust, can't make it cut straight,
>>aluminum table...Sheet metal stand.  Top is so boxy there is no where to
>>put a clamp on it.
>>
>>My advice - buy a Delta...Or similar quality...
>>
>>Tony
>>
> I'd like to second Tony's opinion of the craftsman saw.  This thing retails
> for about $400.00, I bought the same saw used from Sears for $200.00 and
> guess what?  I paid way to much!!  (Mine has the enclosed base but I think
> they are about the same).

> Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
>>
>>>
>>> Greg
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>                          ED-Beta: Simply THE BEST!
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'll third it. I have made some changes and accessories which help a
little, but this saw is JUNK! Is there anyone who thinks otherwise?
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Subject: Re: Looking for sharpening stuff
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 18:56:20 GMT

Highland Hardware (see the FAQ) carries a good selection of sharpening equipment.
I know you can get 1000, 6000, and 8000 stones, and nagura stones, both artificial
and man-made.  They also carry the natural waterstones themselves (BIG $$$'s)

I HAVE seen 4000 grit slipstones, but I'm not sure sbout 4000 grit bench stones.
I have been using 1000, 6000, 8000 for a while and find it works great.  The
1000 stone hones faster that the 4000 grit and as you work the stone the particles
break down creating a finer grit thus eliminating the need for the 4000 stone.
You then finish with the 6000 and the 8000 is for getting the mirror finish.  I
honestly think you'll have better luck with this system than starting out at 4000
in fact, I think the reason HH doesn't carry the 4000 is that most folks use this
system and they just don't sell enough 4000 bench stones.

They also have 250 grit green stone which is great for shaping the bevel, flattening
the back, and tuning up the sole of small planes.  My first stone was a 250/1000
combination, and then I bought a 6000 finishing stone.  A larger 1000 stone is
good to have as most of work is done there and the 8000 is really for purists.

Happy sharpening!
Walt


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 14 Oct 1992 01:15:30 EDT
From:         Alan Browning <AJB@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Hand Plane Question

I have a question for all you hand plane gurus out there.  I have a
Stanley low angle block plane with adjustable throat. The rear portion
of the throat, the one that the iron bears on, is just a hair higher on
one side.  This causes the blade (when parallel to the plane body) to
cut deeper on one side.  The depth of cut can be made equal by pushing
the back of the blade to one side, but then the cutting edge protrudes
farther forward on one side.  I assume this is one more example of
new planes needing tuning.  What's the best way to bring down the high
side and keep the bearing surface perfectly flat?

Thanks in advance.

Alan Browning
AJB@BROWNVM
Alan_Browning@Brown.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat)
Subject: Re: Expanding Collet Chuck for Lathe
Organization: IDA, Alexandria, VA
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 17:46:52 GMT

richard wilk (wilkr@silver.ucs.indiana.edu) wrote:
: I am a beginner on the wood lathe, and have been reading every
: book I can get my hands on. I have a 3-jaw chuck and a couple
: of faceplates, but am unhappy with the limitations of the
: 3-jaw for faceplate work. It either puts indentations in the
: foot of the piece, or it requires too large an indentation in
: the base. Sometimes it lets go on softer woods, and I don't like
: getting bopped in the face with my bowl - even with a face guard
: which I wear religiously.

Well, I recommend against using this sort of chuck except, perhaps, for
rough turning.  The method that works for me is to use hot glue to
attach a working piece to a scrap block (most commonly a bit of 2x4)
that's screwed onto the faceplate.  Definitely use the tailstock to keep
it from flying free before it's rounded, though.  I lose at most a
couple of mm of good wood when cutting it free with the parting tool.
-- 
--Dick Wexelblat  (rlw@ida.org) 703 845 6601
  This message is not copyright.  Please feel free to use it
  in any context, at any time, with or without attribution.
  Quotes out of context and parodies are encouraged.
From: JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET (Jeff Roberts)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Bookcase design (It's baaaack!)
Date: 15 Oct 92 13:24:15 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
              14 Oct 1992 13:35:24 -0500 from <tip@LEAD.AICHEM.ARIZONA.EDU>

On Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:35:24 -0500 Tom Perigrin said:
>
>Maybe $62 isn't worth cutting the boards with a skill saw and routering
>over the edge to get the bullnose.  Is $178 worth it to you?  Would be to
>me...  I assume that the time involved in cutting 10 shelves would be about
>1 hour (setup, takedown, cleanup), and the router time would be 2 hours
>(proabaly less, but lets go fer it).  That means at $178/3 hours, my
>"pay" would be $59/hour.  I'll work for that!
>
>
>Just think of the tools you could go buy and KEEP with your serendipitous
>windfall!!  Isn't this how it's supposed to work in the name of saving money?
 Save money on wood, blow it on tools, Yep that's how it works.....


Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 9 Oct 1992 10:19:12 PDT
From:         "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL>
Subject:      Inlay
              at Oct 8, 92 6:02 pm

      Has anybody gotten into inlay?  I saw a rather interesting article on
      brass inlay and the project was quite beautiful with just a simple
      inlay of brass scraped even with the surface of the wood.  Garret
      carries the inlay materials according to the article.

      Although getting the basics down is very important to woodworking I
      think that it is the finer things that separate it from making a
      dog house.  If someone in net land can shed some light on how to
      prepare the wood for an inlay or any experiences with it that you have
      had I would appreciate it.  I am also interested in SIMPLE marquetry
      (sp?) and wonder how to cut the bed for that.  Obviously this has been
      around for centuries so there must be a way.

      Thanks in advance for your inputs.  By the way I enjoy this net quite
      a bit.

      James Johnson
      Standard Disclaimer
From: kimnach@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Followup to Recommendation
Date: 9 Oct 92 15:57:00 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

Based on the net discussions, I think it is a good idea to stay away from 
Grizzly's bandsaws.  However, because I own a Grizzly shaper, jointer, and
dust collector, I can recommend these units.  I can also recommend the 15" 
planer which I bought based on a friend's recommendation.

Now a question: I like the idea of the tilting head design of the Craftsman 
bandsaws (seems much safer).  What's the net concensus on these?

Greg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
                         ED-Beta: Simply THE BEST!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 14 Oct 1992 15:44:09 -0500
From:         jeff roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Followup to Recommendation

On Wed, 14 Oct 1992 00:05:19 -0500 <tennis@ZIFF.COM> said:
>In article <9OCT199210570085@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov>,
>kimnach@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH) writes:
>> Based on the net discussions, I think it is a good idea to stay away from
>> Grizzly's bandsaws.  However, because I own a Grizzly shaper, jointer, and
>> dust collector, I can recommend these units.  I can also recommend the 15"
>> planer which I bought based on a friend's recommendation.
>>
>> Now a question: I like the idea of the tilting head design of the Craftsman
>> bandsaws (seems much safer).  What's the net concensus on these?
>
>I own a Sears tilting head bandsaw.  It is the expensive model with the
>digital readout.
>
>People, this saw BLOWS.  Hard to adjust, can't make it cut straight,
>aluminum table...Sheet metal stand.  Top is so boxy there is no where to
>put a clamp on it.
>
>My advice - buy a Delta...Or similar quality...
>
>Tony
>
 I'd like to second Tony's opinion of the craftsman saw.  This thing retails
 for about $400.00, I bought the same saw used from Sears for $200.00 and
 guess what?  I paid way to much!!  (Mine has the enclosed base but I think
 they are about the same).

 Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.EDU
>
>>
>> Greg
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>                          ED-Beta: Simply THE BEST!
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------