HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: geoffo@spectrum.cs.unsw.oz.au (Geoff Oakley)
Subject: Re: Lights
Organization: none
	<1992Jul23.170454.51702@qut.edu.au> <Bs4yFw.41s@research.canon.oz.au>
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 03:57:40 GMT

In article <Bs4yFw.41s@research.canon.oz.au> mpulver@research.canon.oz.au (Mark Pulver) writes:

   I'm looking to put together a better light system for my commute bike.
   So I'm paying attention to any comment that come throgh on the topic.

   [ stuff about Cateye lights deleted . . . ]

   The local bike shop, sells a wiz bang light system with low & high beams
   and a water bottle shaped rechargeable battery for $300.  I'm sure I should
   be able to put something together for mush less.

   Mark

Push On has published several articles on building lighting sets, you
could ask the BINSW office or rummage though my old copies if you like
(I also live in Glebe).

You might be surprised on how much a good light set costs.  When I put
mine together 5 or 6 years ago the best commercial system I could find
was a VeloLux (imported by Noel MacFarlane, then at Calypso Cycles).
At $150 it seemed expensive, and I thought I could do better.  By the
time I had bought a good halogen light, a good generator, a suitable
battery, a decent tail-light and halogen bulb, a couple of switches,
rectifier, etc, I had spent somewhere over $100.  I am not sure what
the piece prices are now.


The thing I would really like to add to it would be a real strobe with
a red or yellow reflector.  Any suggestions anyone?  (I do not think
the flashing LED systems are very impressive in the traffic at all.
Put one near a car's taillight and guess which one you cannot see.)



Good luck,

Geoff O
--

	       geoffo@spectrum.cs.unsw.oz.au
Geoff Oakley:  CS & E, UNSW, PO Box 1, Kensington, NSW 2033, Australia
	       Phone: +61 2 697 4043	Fax: +61 2 313 7987
From: heard@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: Re: Insurance & locks
Date: 27 Jul 92 18:09:09 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology

In article <7931@sirius.ucs.adelaide.edu.au>, chris@softway.sw.oz.au (Chris Maltby) writes:
> 
>     Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1992 11:25:46 +0930
>     From: heard@qut.edu.au
>     
>     The security people found that the only ones not 
>     being stolen were the ones with the `Kryptonite' style 
>     U-bolt locks something like
>     
>                     _______
>                    /       \
>                    |       |
>                    |       |
>                    |       |
>                    |       |
>                   ===========
>                   ===========
>     
>     The popular wisdom is that these can be cut only with 
>     an angle grinder (I have my doubts though.)
> 
> This may be an old thread, but...
> 
> It's reported from New York that the thieves there are stealing bikes
> with these locks using liquid nitrogen (easily available apparently) and
> hammers. The lock mechanism apparently can't handle a sharp blow after
> that sort of quick chill. It's only a rumour, but keep an eye out for
> people with liquid air thermos flasks and hammers on your campus.
> 
> Chris

Will do. In fact I tend to keep an eye out for 
suspicious types around the bike racks.

I have heard of the liquid nitrogen method (someone
from the US mailed me after my posting here). However,
while people still lock their bikes with simple chains,
or with cheapie cables and padlocks, I think thieves
will carry bolt-cutters rather than liquid nitrogen.
The couple of times I have bought chains in hardware
shops I have been shocked at how easy the chains are to
cut with the right tool. 

I also see bikes with a lock just through the front
wheel. If the thieves aren't planning to ride away, its
just 2 bolts or 2 quick-release levers for 90 percent
of a bike. 

Take care
Ronno
From: chris@softway.sw.oz.au (Chris Maltby)
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: Re: The cost of cycling!!
Date: 27 Jul 92 05:47:50 GMT


    Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1992 18:53:50 +0930
    From: tonyb@tplrd.tpl.oz.au (Tony Bennett (Not the singer...))
    
    [replacing drive chain for $200]

    Whilst this is still cheaper than many on-going car repairs it seems to
    be alot of bucks for basic spares. As I use the bike for commuting I guess
    it was worthwhile but my wallet is still reeling from the blow.
    If prices continue to go higher for spares it won't be too long before
    it's simply cheaper to buy a new bike every two years!

Tony,

It's much cheaper to use non-sticky chain lubricant (teflon, eg bike-aid)
and to keep the parts clean and well lubricated. If you can keep the
abrasive gunk out of the chain in the first place, you need to replace
only the chain when it stretches. A cluster is good for 3 or four chains,
and rings are good indefinitely...

Chris
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
From: iann@storesys.coles.oz.au (Ian Nicholls)
Subject: Re: Lights
Organization: Coles Supermarkets
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 01:18:22 GMT

I have recently bought the Cateye Halogens, and they are very good for
my purposes.  I needed a light which I could use occasionally when I was
commuting in the half-light for those times I left work a little late.
I usually travel along quiet side streets.

The lamp is palm-sized and is detachable from the bike (leaving behind
the mounting).  It's also useful as a torch.  The beam it puts out is a
tight rectangle which spreads to about a car's length (and twice height)
in 10-15 metres (Please note that these are not measured distances). 
It's the tightest beam I've seen in a while.  It is very bright, and
will light up objects up to about 40 metres.  There are a couple of 5mm
holes either side of the lamp, which put out a small beam at
right-angles for telling side-viewers you're around.

The Nicad 'C'-cells last longer than the 20-25 minutes it takes me to ride
home, but I can use the 'AA' cells from the tail lamp if needed (though I
suspect I would be safer to keep the tail-light flashing), so I haven't
timed its longevity.

You probably want a beam with a wider spread because it sounds like your
light will be the sole illumination.  I use mine mainly as a 'here I am'
light, and haven't tried it except in lit streets in the twilight.

I Hope this helps.
--
"He's manipulating me, she though, but that doesn't mean he isn't sincere."
					- Orson Scott Card, "Ender's Game"
Ian Nicholls         Phone : +61 3 829 6088   Fax: +61 3 829 6886
Coles/Myer Ltd.      E-mail: iann@cnw01.storesys.coles.oz.au
-- 
"... and her terrifying brush with credibility"    -- Fast Forward
Ian Nicholls         Phone : +61 3 829 6088   Fax: +61 3 829 6886    \_o_/
Coles/Myer Ltd.      E-mail: iann@cnw01.storesys.coles.oz.au         \\|
L1 M11, PO Box 480, Glen Iris 3146, Australia                         \\
From: x01233@phillip.edu.au
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: Re: The cost of cycling!!
Date: 22 Jul 92 14:46:47 GMT
Distribution: aus
Organization: Phillip Institute of Tech, Melbourne

In article <jamescr.711627435@munagin>, jamescr@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU (Jim.. i960) writes:
> 
> 
> cyclists who use clipless pedals or really good toe straps and hammer
> their bike (such as in racing) will find that their chain stretches 
> rather quickly..  cheap chains have very thin metal link walls, and
> stretch even faster. . you'll aslo find that your gears wont change


Sorry, but the side plates on a chain do not stretch. In fact nothing on 
a chain stretches. The reason it gets longer is because each of the link
joints _wear_ out and gets sloppy.

This is due to the chain getting dirty. Excessive muck acts as an abrasive.
Cleaning your chain and cogs on a regular basis should ensure a long life.
(Just like changing the oil in the car on a regular basis is one of the 
kindest things you can do for your engine).

If you were to protect the chain & cogs by totally encasing them, the 
chain would last for _Years_ no matter how hard you peddle.

 
I wonder if having two sets of cogs & chains, one in use, one being cleaned
(cos we never clean the chain overnight between commutes, do we?) would in 
the long run be cheaper. I suppose you would have to weigh against it the
cost of all the Shimano HG chain pins and kero...



Dale Stanbrough
RMIT
Melbourne
From: zebee@ucs.adelaide.edu.au (Zebee Johnstone)
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: cateye problems
Date: 28 Jul 92 04:59:16 GMT
Organization: Information Technology Division, The University of Adelaide, AUSTRALIA

I have a cateye front light, and have had 2 probs:
  
1) It chews batteries.

2) It regularly lemmings off the bracket if you hit a bump.

However, it is very bright, and good in the dark unlit back streets.

Before that I had one of those godawful lights which strap to the bars
with a nylon strap & metal buckle, round lens, can't remember the
make.  These stop working lots, and have to be taken apart and
have the contacts bent.  Not good.

So, excluding cateyes, any other recommendations?

I'd like a light that 
	a) is *hard* to remove. (If I can't, they can't)
	b) is cheap to run. (No generators though!)
	c) is light.  (Why have a lightweight bike then weigh it down?)

Any ideas?

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
     Zebee Johnstone  DoD #605   | You don't own an Italian motorcycle 
     Adelaide City Council       |  - you merely have the privilege 
    zebee@itd.adelaide.edu.au    |    of paying its bills....
From: chris@softway.sw.oz.au (Chris Maltby)
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: Re: Insurance & locks
Date: 27 Jul 92 01:11:19 GMT


    Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1992 11:25:46 +0930
    From: heard@qut.edu.au
    
    The security people found that the only ones not 
    being stolen were the ones with the `Kryptonite' style 
    U-bolt locks something like
    
                    _______
                   /       \
                   |       |
                   |       |
                   |       |
                   |       |
                  ===========
                  ===========
    
    The popular wisdom is that these can be cut only with 
    an angle grinder (I have my doubts though.)

This may be an old thread, but...

It's reported from New York that the thieves there are stealing bikes
with these locks using liquid nitrogen (easily available apparently) and
hammers. The lock mechanism apparently can't handle a sharp blow after
that sort of quick chill. It's only a rumour, but keep an eye out for
people with liquid air thermos flasks and hammers on your campus.

Chris
From: gavina@otc.otca.oz (Gavin Abfalter)
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: Lights
Date: 21 Jul 92 05:26:12 GMT
Reply-To: gavina@otc.oz.au (Gavin Abfalter)
Followup-To: aus.bicycle
Organization: R&D, OTC Sydney, Australia

I vaguely remember seeing some discussion in this newsgroup regarding effective
lighting set-ups and I was wondering if someone could post some details to me
regarding this discussion.

For some details on the application :

The lights will by and large be used for my commute which lasts for about 20 -
25 mins. and takes in a very large and dark Centennial Park during the night
portion. (Centennial Park is in Sydney's eastern suburbs).

I have been putting up with some u-beaut "Wonder Lights" for some years but
have now had enough.

Ideally I'm looking for an off the shelf product but am considering putting
some time into a customized set-up if necessary.

I have ftp'ed the rec.bicycles stuff and had a look at that but I was wondering
if anyone had any experience in what is available in Aust. (i.e the Cateye
halogens etc.)

Thanks in advance

Gav. Abfalter
From: ins894r@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au (Aaron Wigley [Wigs])
Subject: Re: Cycle computers... what is the low down
Organization: Monash University
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: aus
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 01:21:35 GMT

gabrielh@tplrd.tpl.oz.au (Gabriel Haythornthwaite) writes:
: The guy in my local bike shop wouldn't sell me a chain because he said the cogs and the chain wear together and replacing the chain can actually accelerate the wear on the cogs. Is this true? (I was a bit dubious at the time.)

Sounds like it. This thread is currently active on the newsgroup 
rec.bicycle. You might want to check there.

: gabrielh@tplrd.tpl.oz.au   Bring back Maynard. And shoot those two 

Aaron Wigley, The Wigs of Oz
ins894r@aurora.cc.monash.edu.au
From: heard@qut.edu.au
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: Re: Info Wanted
Date: 29 Jul 92 17:21:06 EST
Organization: Queensland University of Technology

In article <1992Jul28.061212.1693@monu6.cc.monash.edu.au>, 
mes156n@mdw034.cc.monash.edu.au (P Kong) writes:

> I am currently involved in the design and construction of a human 
    powered hydrofoil and I am in need of information.
> The craft will be powered by a setup similar to that of a racing bike 
    in fact the prototype will be a converted racer with the pedals 
    driving a prop.
> What I need help in is finding out any info about this area and about 
    the International Human-Powered Vehicle Association which is based 
    in Indianapolis.
> This project is a Monash University Undergraduate Design.  Any info 
    would be of great help.  Please post a message on the net.
> Or send any helpful info to Mr Bruce Kuhnell
>                             Dept. Mechanical Engineering
>                             Monash University
>                             Wellington Rd ,   Clayton,  Vic
> 
> 
> Phillip Kong
> HSI Design Team 
> Monash University

Phillip
       I guess you know of the article in "Scientific
American" a couple of years ago on pedal powered craft.
I can't quote the exact issue -- it seems like about 3
years ago, but it could be more. Anyway, there is an
annual index, or you could ask your friendly reference
librarian to use librarian type tools to find it. 

Scientific American articles always have a guide to 
further reading, so you could follow these up, or 
perhaps write to the original author.

Good luck
Ronno


P.S.  Can you press RETURN every 70 characters or so. 
It was difficult to extract your article for reply on 
my news system.
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
From: gabrielh@tplrd.tpl.oz.au (Gabriel Haythornthwaite)
Subject: Re: Cycle computers... what is the low down
Originator: gabrielh@sydrd19
Organization: Telectronics Pacing Systems
Distribution: aus
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 03:14:49 GMT


In article <1992Jul15.123650.13180@bohra.cpg.oz.au>, daavid@bohra.cpg.oz.au (Daavid Turnbull) writes:
|> in a year varied dramatically. According to stuff I have read in rec.bicycles
|> one should replace your chain every 5000 to 7000 K's, because a warn and
|> streached chain caused excessive cog wear and chains were a lot cheaper than
|> cogs.  This sort of regular maintenance issue is where the odometer in the

The guy in my local bike shop wouldn't sell me a chain because he said the cogs and the chain wear together and replacing the chain can actually accelerate the wear on the cogs. Is this true? (I was a bit dubious at the time.)
-- 
gabrielh@tplrd.tpl.oz.au   Bring back Maynard. And shoot those two 
                           dorks on JJJ in the mornings or better still
                           make them listen to their own pathetic jokes.         
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
From: jamescr@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU (Jim.. i960)
Subject: Re: The cost of cycling!!
Organization: Computer Science, University of Melbourne, Australia
Distribution: aus
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1992 10:17:15 GMT

tonyb@tplrd.tpl.oz.au (Tony Bennett (Not the singer...)) writes:

>Whilst having come to the conclusion that cycling is a quick and efficient
>way of getting around, particularly in the city, I no longer believe it 
>comes cheap. Because of poor gear changing and a bad case of `chain suck'
>I finally relented and visited the bike shop where I wanted to buy a new
>chain. This immediately necessitated new freewheel cogs (cassette system)
>which I got the shop to put on. (I still haven't got round to buying the
>chain whip tool required to remove Shimano cassette cogs). It was pretty
>clear from observation and riding the bike that new chain rings were in
>order also. I bought Sugino ones cos they were cheaper. This solved the
>problem but left me $200 worse off than when I decided to go shopping.
>It occurred to me afterwards that this was approx. 40% of the total cost
>of a new, bottom line cro-mo frame MTB. 


yeah.. it's a real problem when your drive systems starts wearing out..
be sure you have lots of money, because you have to replace it all at once
to make sure the chain 'matches' well with the various sprockets.

basically, your whole drive system 'wears' together at a similar rate.
If you put a brand new unstretched chain onto a worn sprockets, you
start busting all the teeth off. 

cyclists who use clipless pedals or really good toe straps and hammer
their bike (such as in racing) will find that their chain stretches 
rather quickly..  cheap chains have very thin metal link walls, and
stretch even faster. . you'll aslo find that your gears wont change
very well with a worn chain, as the chain has less sideways
stiffness allowing the chain to flex while the derailaur (i could 
never spell that one..?) is trying to 'drag' it over to the next
sprocket.. 

anyway.. i found that the chain generally wears faster than the
sprocket teeth.. (and has caused 2 suntour winner pro clusters
to snap off a total of 4 teeth and 2 cogs )

but.. if you just buy a chain.. alot of stress if put upon the 
tops of the sprocket teeth.. and something breaks when you 
pedal hard.. also the new chain will wear out in no time at all.
since the load is not evenly distributed..

so in the long run.. it's sorta worth it..

>Whilst this is still cheaper than many on-going car repairs it seems to
>be alot of bucks for basic spares. As I use the bike for commuting I guess
>it was worthwhile but my wallet is still reeling from the blow.
>If prices continue to go higher for spares it won't be too long before
>it's simply cheaper to buy a new bike every two years!

>			Tony Bennett


Jim..
From: mpulver@research.canon.oz.au (Mark Pulver)
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: Re: cateye problems
Date: 30 Jul 92 23:23:21 GMT
Organization: Canon Information Systems Research Australia

In article <7960@sirius.ucs.adelaide.edu.au> zebee@ucs.adelaide.edu.au (Zebee Johnstone) writes:
>I have a cateye front light, and have had 2 probs:
>  
>1) It chews batteries.
>
>2) It regularly lemmings off the bracket if you hit a bump.

You have the old model halogen cateye.  They new model has a different
mount that fixes the problem.   There was a lot of discussion on this
light in Australian Cyclist.  The best solution I heard (but never tried)
was to mount the light so it hangs under the handlebars instead of above it.

I have the lastest cateye, since I old one took a leap under a wheel of a car.
Its a design problem, with the model, that why they fixed it. You could try
sending back to cateye, to see they will up grade the mount (What a joke).

>
>However, it is very bright, and good in the dark unlit back streets.
>
>Before that I had one of those godawful lights which strap to the bars
>with a nylon strap & metal buckle, round lens, can't remember the
>make.  These stop working lots, and have to be taken apart and
>have the contacts bent.  Not good.

This is also a cateye (non halogen model) or a cheaper copy.

You'll find even your new cateye has contact problem (but not nearly
as bad).
>
>So, excluding cateyes, any other recommendations?
I'm still looking.

Mark
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
From: tonyb@tplrd.tpl.oz.au (Tony Bennett (Not the singer...))
Subject: The cost of cycling!!
Organization: Telectronics Pacing Systems
Distribution: aus
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1992 03:38:02 GMT



Whilst having come to the conclusion that cycling is a quick and efficient
way of getting around, particularly in the city, I no longer believe it 
comes cheap. Because of poor gear changing and a bad case of `chain suck'
I finally relented and visited the bike shop where I wanted to buy a new
chain. This immediately necessitated new freewheel cogs (cassette system)
which I got the shop to put on. (I still haven't got round to buying the
chain whip tool required to remove Shimano cassette cogs). It was pretty
clear from observation and riding the bike that new chain rings were in
order also. I bought Sugino ones cos they were cheaper. This solved the
problem but left me $200 worse off than when I decided to go shopping.
It occurred to me afterwards that this was approx. 40% of the total cost
of a new, bottom line cro-mo frame MTB. 
Whilst this is still cheaper than many on-going car repairs it seems to
be alot of bucks for basic spares. As I use the bike for commuting I guess
it was worthwhile but my wallet is still reeling from the blow.
If prices continue to go higher for spares it won't be too long before
it's simply cheaper to buy a new bike every two years!

			Tony Bennett
From: brisbane1@peg.pegasus.oz.au
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: BIQ benefit night
Date: 28 Jul 92 23:33:00 GMT
Nf-ID: #N:peg:490100015:000:958
Nf-From: peg.UUCP!brisbane1    Jul 28 18:33:00 1992


Bicycle Institute Benefit Dinner

The BICYCLE and the BUSH

Man and machine in rural Australia A talk and slide show by Dr Jim
Fitzpatrick The invention of the safety bicycle in the 1890's
opened up rural Australia.  Bicycles enabled people to cover
distances far greater than they could on horses and cheaper than
on trains.  "It was almost as if the rural Australian milieu and
the bicycle ... were made for each other".   They transported
shearers, salesmen, explorers, messengers, clergymen, miners and
many others.

Jim Fitzpatrick is well known for his work on the history of
cycling in Australia.  In this entertaining lecture, using
original materials from the period as illustrations, he will take
us back to the heyday of the bike in Australia.

6.30pm - 10.00pm Thursday August 13th Sitting Duck Cafe 165
Boundary St West End $20.00 includes three course meal Bookings
essential Phone 899 2988 or 870 3791 Closing date for bookings Wed
August 5th
From: daavid@bohra.cpg.oz.au (Daavid Turnbull)
Newsgroups: aus.bicycle
Subject: Re: Cycle computers... what is the low down
Date: 22 Jul 92 00:58:45 GMT
Distribution: aus
Organization: Computer Power Software

In article <1992Jul21.131639.26624@tpl68k0.tplrd.tpl.oz.au> gabrielh@tplrd.tpl.oz.au (Gabriel Haythornthwaite) writes:
>
> In article <1992Jul15.123650.13180@bohra.cpg.oz.au>, daavid@bohra.cpg.oz.au (Daavid Turnbull) writes:
> |> in a year varied dramatically. According to stuff I have read in rec.bicycles
> |> one should replace your chain every 5000 to 7000 K's, because a warn and
> |> streached chain caused excessive cog wear and chains were a lot cheaper than
> |> cogs.  This sort of regular maintenance issue is where the odometer in the
>
> The guy in my local bike shop wouldn't sell me a chain because he said the cogs and the chain wear together and replacing the chain can actually accelerate the wear on the cogs. Is this true? (I was a bit dubious at the time.)

I got this impression from an earlier post to this group.  It does not make
much sense to me.  The preasures and mechanical dynamics of chain as opposed
cog wear for me are intuitively at different poles.  A poor chain would
stretch quickly and if you did not replace it, it would probably increase
the rate of wear on the cogs.  (you can buy a lot of chains for the cost of
one set of cogs)  Therefore I would deduce that you should replace the
chain as soon as it shows signs of stretch.

May some mechanical engineer could throw in their two cents worth.

-- 
	Daavid Turnbull
	daavid@bohra.cpg.oz   +61 3 823 0222    (fax) +61 3 824 8068
	uunet!munnari!bohra.cpg.oz!daavid
	CP Software Export Pty Ltd                   ACN 006 640 133