HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hhd0@newshost.gte.com (Horace Dediu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '84 MB 190E Oil Pressure?
Date: 18 Dec 92 21:34:06 GMT
Organization: GTE Laboratories, Waltham, MA

In article <1992Dec11.162606.7966@henson.cc.wwu.edu>, n8743722@henson.cc.wwu.edu (delorm david) writes:
|> henryng@tellabs.com (Henry Ng) writes:
|> 
|> >In article <17710@pitt.UUCP> sherman@michael.nmr.upmc.edu (Sherman Uitzetter) writes:
|> >>
|> >>   I have a newly acquired 1984 Mercedes 190E and a small
|> >>(I hope) question.  After the engine warms up and the
|> >>idle speed returns to normal the oil pressure drops when
|> >>idling.  The pressure increases again immediately when
|> >>the rpm gets to about 900.
|> 
|> >I drive an 86 Vette which has the same scenario. When the car is fully
|> >warm, sitting in traffic at idle. The oil pressure meter drops as well.
|> >I saw it went down to as low as 23 psi and when you accelerate, it goes
|> >back up.
|> 
|> Sounds to me like what is happening in these cases is that the oil pump
|> is unable to provide enough volume at idle to keep the presure up.  When
|> RPM increase pump volume goes up and presure stabilizes.  I think this
|> can be in part due to wear.  For example as the main and connecting rod
|> bearings wear they impose less restriction on the oil flow and the result
|> is that eventually you see a drop in oil presure at engine speeds where
|> the pump is unable to keep up with the "leaks."  Depending on where in
|> the engine oil presure is measured you'll have a better sense of how much
|> of a problem there is.
|> 
|> How much of this is normal and how much it represents the beginning of the
|> end will depend on the engine.  Seems to me like it would make sense to
|> start looking for a mechanic or an engine shop that is truely knowledgable
|> and who enjoys talking and sharing information about the inards of engines.
|> You'll want to know them when the time comes around for a rebuild anyway.

I would not worry about it.  I have a 92 190E.  It also shows a drop from
max. to the middle of the oil pressure range when the engine is idling.

-- 
Horace Dediu                                                  GTE Laboratories
(617) 466-4111                                                40 Sylvan Road
Internet: hdediu@gte.com                                      Waltham, MA 02254
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Do SPOILERS Really Work??? no.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 12 Dec 92 13:41:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> At US-legal automobile velocities you'd need a hell of a wing to make
-> any difference whatsoever.  A few automobiles are sold with effective
-> spoilers at super-legal velocities, eg Porshe 911.  Note the size of
-> the Porshe spoiler.

 A popular, but erroneous, belief.

 The effectiveness of a wing or spoiler is quite dependent on the shape
of the body.  Some cars, you could put a picnic table on and it wouldn't
make a difference.  Others, just a small lip will make a noticeable
change - and it can be effective as low as 35mph.

 For example, the '70-'73 Capris are very sensitive to crosswinds.  Get
some random gusts out there and you're liable to be pulled over as a
suspected DWI.  A mere three inch rear spoiler will stabilize the car
quite well.  Front spoilers appear to do nothing for that particular
car.

 In another test, we used a '63 Chevy II, pretty close to a shoebox
shape.  No rear wing or spoiler we tested did anything we could notice,
but a front air dam made a big difference in directional stability at
60mph, and on trips we observed a consistent 2 to 2.5 mpg increase over
the non-dammed car.
                                                                                                         
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Subject: Re: Light and LOUD... I want aftermarket horns 
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 92 21:31:43 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
Distribution: usa

dylan@cs.washington.edu (Dylan McNamee) writes:

>>"Immediate reversal". Hrmph- I want it loud enough for "immediate cardiac
>>arrest."
>>
>>	-Kenny

>On the other hand, as a frequent cyclist, I've heard horns (directed at
>me or not) which have almost made me lose control of my bike and get 
>in an accident.  Most horns seem to be "tuned" to get through to the 
>motorist with windows rolled up and stereo going.  Horns even louder than
>that can actually be a hazard to the non-cocooned bystander.

You'd have loved the diesel truck airhorn I had in my first Datsun
Z.  Blast the bastards out of the way!  I'm currently looking
for a locomotive horn for my Rolls Knardley (68 Fury III).  Should be
a good match.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM) | Interested in high tech and computers? 
Marietta, Ga                         | Send ur snail-mail address to 
jgd@dixie.com                        | perform@dixie.com for a free sample mag
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
From: leonglaw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com (Lawrence LEONG)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 02:02:06 GMT
Subject: Re: Help! Won't Start in Damp Weather
Organization: HP Singapore
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, dpl@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (douglas.p.linden) writes:

[original post and my earlier stuff deleted]

| Another guess.  Having experienced a similar problem, I found the cause
| to be the ignition coil.  Check the business end of the coil for any
| dirt or oily film.  Clean with suitable cleaner (engine starting spray
| work well) and make sure all electrical connections are clean and
| tight.
|
| If this situation happens again during the evening, open up the 
| hood and look for any visible arcing...you would be surprised
| at the electrical show your car puts on for you when things need
| to be replaced.

If this happens, you might also be able to hear a faint "clicking" sound which
varies with the engine speed.  Also happens when your plug cables are old
(insulation wears thin, I think).

good luck
lawrence
From: slhmz@cc.usu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Please Identify this Car!! Help me, to!
Date: 11 Dec 92 11:37:25 MDT
Organization: Utah State University


Ok all you car dudes!  Help a gal out!

My car is a Pontiac Sunbird Convertable.

The fourth digit of the VIN is a J
The tenth digit of the VIN is an H

So, according to Chilton's No. 7059 Repair manual for 2000/Sunbird
cars, my car should be:

Engine Code    Cu. In.      Liters     Cyl.     Fuel Sys.    Year
-----------    ---------    ------     ----     ----------   ----
   J           110 (OHC)     1.8        4        MFI Turbo    '87

Note the the fuel system MFI is Multiport Fule Enjection.


Now, looking at my car:
                                 3
Cu. In. : ( OHC ) I don't know in
Liters  : 2.0 L  (says this on the engine)
Cyl     : 4
Fuel sys: Fuel Injection, only it isn't multi-port, it is Throttle body!

So, why does my car differ then what the book says it should be?
By the way, my vert is not a turbo.

Also, Last summer, I got the AC re-charged.  It worked for about a week,
then stopped working.  I had moved, so I didn't take it back.

Anyways, I was looking at the big metal case that has a little metal pipe
that goes into the ratiator, then out of it, then to a smaller little metal
case, then into the compresor?  I think that is what it is, becase it is hooked
into the engine belts.

Anyways, the smaller little metal case is cracked competely in half.  You can
pull it apart.

With this being like that, would it have any effect on engine preformance?

Thanks for any help!

--
Faith Gibson

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimd@fraser.sfu.ca (Jim Davies)
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting and theory books for older engines
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 19:19:42 GMT

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:


>-> I'm the proud owner of a 1970 SAAB 95 with a carburated Ford V-4
>...
>-> I'd like to find a book or books that will help me understand what
>-> the engine is thinking and how to keep it happy.  Any suggestions?

> SAAB would probably sell you a service manual.

> The engine was originally designed by Ford, for use in a "light car"
>project in the 1950s.  Ford dropped the project, but foisted the engine
>off on Ford/Germany (Taunus).  It saw duty in many Taunus cars, and in
>early German spec versions of the Capri.  SAAB bought engines from Ford
>to use in the Sonnett.

> You might also be interested to know Ford's agricultural division sold
>lots of the V4s for use in stationary power applications such as
>irrigation pumps.  You might be able to find parts through them.

Ford also sold these thru their Industrial division. Have worked
on them in paving rollers, where they were combined with a really
interesting industrial transaxle. Too bad it was cast iron *the
transaxle* 

JD
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Patrick Taylor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: wheel bearings
Date: 15 Dec 92 23:12:08 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <28516.9212151553@thor.cf.ac.uk> spe2mje@thor.cf.ac.uk (Michael Evans) writes:
>In article <1992Dec10.170613.17838@gdr.bath.ac.uk> mascdb@gdr.bath.ac.uk (C D Burdorf) writes:
>|In the referenced article, anders@decalp.enet.dec.com (Steve Anders) writes:
>|>
>|>In article <1992Dec1.232818.654@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes...
>|>> Can a bad bearing cause the axel to come out of the housing?
>|>
>|
>|I had mine pop out on the motorway.  I had to write the car off.
>|
>|My question is:  HOW DO I KNOW IF I SHOULD HAVE THE BEARING REPLACED?

>This phenomenon is not very funny, as we came very close to injury when a tyre on out caravan burst. anyway, bearings normally start to whine when worn, and if
>you can check them yourself, do it. or get a garage to do it for you.

The hardest part about doing this yourself is getting the dang things 
loose.  Expect to use a 1/2 in socket set with a breaker bar at least 18" 
long.  This may be overkill for some, but better to be prepared than not.
 ----------------------!!! H A P P Y   H O L I D A Y S !!!-------------------
 ObQuotes:
 "Igornance and prejudice, confident their ways are best..."
 "Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand..."

  - Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
    Visit the SOUNDING BOARD BBS 214-596-2915, a Wildcat! BBS
From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chrome/Re-Chrome Advice Needed!
Date: 15 Dec 92 15:57:24 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA



	I would recommend taking the truck down to the plating
shop and asking them. No real other info.

I feel these trucks are overlooked as a classic truck, being
surpassed by the 55-57 and 68-72. So lets here it for the
62-66 trucks..

chris wiles
From: spe2mje@thor.cf.ac.uk (Michael Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Strange snapping sound
Date: 15 Dec 92 15:45:50 GMT
Organization: University of Wales College at Cardiff
X-Mailer: Cardiff Computing Maths PP Mail Open News Gateway

In article <1992Dec12.081144.146186@zeus.calpoly.edu> sparker@zeus.calpoly.edu (Sean Lawrence Parker) writes:
|In article <1992Dec12.074859.857411@zeus.calpoly.edu> sparker@zeus.calpoly.edu (Sean Lawrence Parker) writes:
|>I have a 1992 ford mustang, every time I stop the car at a fast pace or
|>down shift at a high rpm(2500 or greater) I hear a strange snapping
|>sound coming from the rear of the car.I don't have to be going fast. It
|>always happens when the car is slowing down pretty fast, and it doesn't
|>matter whether the car is in gear or not ,the clutch in or not, going
|>forward or going in reverse. 
|>Some one was telling me that maybe it is a bushing in one of the lower
|>or upper control arms in the rear but I'm not sure about that.Has any
|>body had this same problem or any idea what this might be. Any help
|>would be appreciated.
|>Thanks in advance,
|>Sean Parker    Email- sparker@morpheus.calpoly.edu
|
|t could also be called a popping type sound.


Hi there,
	This snapping sound could be a form of backfiring.
	It would be worth checking the ignition timing etc,.
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: tranny problems
Date: 9 Dec 92 21:18:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 

   >>>Subject: tranny problems >>>Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1992 21:00:45 GMT

MAO>>>I have an 82 olds cutlas cierra with 152,000 on it.  The transmission doe
   >>>shift properly (it is in third by 20 mph) and it has no passing gear.  If
   >>>I lock the transmission in d1 and then manually shift up through d2 and d
   >>>I have no problems.  The transmission has plenty of fluid in it.  I am st
   >>>to get real tired of manually shifting an automatic transmission and I wa
   >>>wondering if anyone knows what the problem is.  Am I looking at a rebuild
   >>>would a servicing be in order (belts tightened, fluid and filter etc.)  I
   >>>do not want to have to replace the transmission because of the side saddl
   >>>engine (2.5 if it makes a difference).  What should I do (besides stay cl
   >>>AAMCO)?
   >>>Michael Overland
Check the detent/kickdown cable. Only cable from trans to the throttle
lever near the carb. It either broke or has come off. Will require trans
pan removal to replace..thats the only nasty work!
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
         
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jag auto trans
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 11 Dec 92 18:51:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
-> > The Rover V8 is a relative of the Buick V6.

> I don't think so, other than the fact that the iron 231 V6 and
> the aluminum 215 V8 were both from Buick and were both used in
> the Special.
>         size   bore stroke
> 1961-1963 215 V8 3.50 2.80

<sigh>  Now look at bore spacing, timing chains, rocker gear, front
covers, etc.

 The 215 was enlarged to the 300, which was an iron block with aluminum
heads.  The 225 V6 is 3/4 of a 300; they didn't even bother to go to a
120 degree or even fire crank.
                                           
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Ken Wilkens <wilkens@oursun.med.yale.edu>
Subject: Re: Aerodymics and spoilers
Organization: Yale University
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
     <exuptr.373.724114310@exu.ericsson.se>
     <1992Dec13.175142.9269@nntp.hut.fi> <1992Dec13.225328.14446@nntp.hut.fi>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 13:27:40 GMT

now for what really happens, first of all front airdams help but not for
the reason posted that they creat vaccuum (you need a REAL good ground
effects to do that). it prevents air from going under the car which has a
surface area! (more surface more turbulance more drag) some cras will
have panels under the front suspension/engine area to keep the underside
of the car as smooth as reasonably possible. On Rear spoilers design is
everything! I have the numbers someplace for a 78 camaro, with the
factory spoiler rear downforce was around 157 lbs at 80mph or so (again I
would have to look these up to be sure!) and the added drag was .002 CD! 
for you that don't know, that spoiler is about 4-5" tall and at a fairly
steep angle. Another one tested was about 2" tall and reduced drag but
also it didn't help with the lift numbers at all! 
  for most autos the aerodynamic drag doesn't really bother you till
around 40-60 mph, under those speeds most drag is from rollinr resistance.
  One more thing, someone mentioned before about the corvette and no
spoiler, but skidpad measurments are done on a large circle in steady
state driving till you loose tire adhesion. This can be done at speeds of
under 60 so spoilers wouldn't make much diffrance and drag isn't a
problem as the car has ample HP to overcome it. you could put a belair
body on a corvette chassie and you should get the same skid pad numbers
(well the center of gravity might chnage some).

Ken
From: justin@fennel.cc.uwa.oz.au
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Jaguar XJ-12 is a Dog? Woof!
Date: 17 Dec 92 00:49:49 +0800
Organization: University of Western Australia
NNTP-Posting-Host: fennel.wt.uwa.edu.au

In article <92349.125018KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu>, Karl Nordstrom <KXN2@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
> wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher) says:
>>
>>The Wall Street Journal had an article about memorable dogs.
>>As I recall ... the XJ-12.
> 
> A dog?  That engine produces more hp and torque than a '84-'9? Corvette!

Hmmmmmmmmmm. But what about the pre-84 Corvettes eh??? ;()

ha   --Thought as much.

Justin...
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: timing belt? chain on sen
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 


  >>>Subject: timing belt? chain on sentra
  >>>Date: 12 Dec 92 03:21:11 GMT


HE>>>I have 90 Sentra. Its reached 60,000 miles. Is it
  >>>necessary to have timing belt-chain change? Manual
  >>>mentions nothing about it.
Its a belt and its VERY necessary!
                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                     
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com
From: blunt@crlrfr.enet.dec.com (Bob Blunt)
Subject: Re: Re: Pesky engine cold noise on Dodge Ramchrg W/318
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: 13 DEC 92 12:05:50    


In article <4170096@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com>, stevew@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Steve Waite) 
>In article <1992Dec2.194511.12987@ryn.mro4.dec.com> blunt@crlrfr.enet.dec.com 
>I've got an '87 Ramcharger with the 360.  In mine the noise seems to come 
>from the heat rise manifold.  When the engine is cold a valve redirects some
.
.
.
>Steve

Bingo!  That I'll agree with.  And the conclusion that I was reaching for.  It
acts like something THERMOSTATICALLY controlled that STICKS sometimes.  The
other replies had discussed something that was occurring CONSTANTLY.  One ref.
was to an exhaust leak that "expansion sealed" and another was a leak in the
air pump plumbing.  Neither quite sounded right, and both were constant.  The
reason that I was skeptical about those ideas (and I do appreciate 'em and
did check both areas again) was that the noise would have ALWAYS been present
when the engine was cold (and I admit I may not have been perfectly clear in
that regard).  That condition wasn't true, as the noise isn't always present
when the engine is cold.  Thanks for all the responses.  I think it's warm
enough to work on today, so here goes...

Bob
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Subject: gm truck status?
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 12 Dec 92 22:49:40 EST

 
In Message-ID: <lc06095@pro-haven.cts.com>
shadow@pro-haven.cts.com (Blaine Hufnagle) writes:
 
>Have any of you been following the debate about '73-'87 GM trucks?
 
Sort of...
 
>The thing I don't understand is this:  Why the hooplah now?  These trucks
>have been out of production for five years now.  Why wasn't said "defect" (if
>it indeed *IS* a defect) corrected a year or two after production started, in
>'73?  Why has this consumer group waited almost 20 years to do something?
 
As a GM Truck owner myself, my theory is this: Traditionally, trucks have
not had to meet a lot of the safety standards and requirements that cars
have had to meet. (rollover, steel door beams, head restraints etc.).
 
With the increasing popularity of mini-vans and "sport utilities", there
has been an increase in the number of former car drivers now driving trucks
which, as mentioned, are not as safe (wrt. legal requirements) as cars.
 
Therefore, consumers groups suddenly find themselves representing a large
number of non-commercial truck owners who are concerned with safety.
 
Regards,
 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     Fido: 1:229/15
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
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World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang)
Subject: Re: Oil Priming System
Organization: Brandeis University
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:58:04 GMT

In article <VBREAULT.92Dec11142012@rinhp750.gmr.com> vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:
>In article <1992Dec11.152053.22392@mtu.edu> vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER) writes:
>
>   vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) writes:
><stuff deleted here... you really had to be following along>
><This note is a bit long even after the deletions>
>
>   >When your engine was ENGINEERED, the engineers took into consideration the 
>     Beautiful "Blue-Blooded" GM praise (I suppose Chrysler Corp. too in a way)!!!  
>     vetter@mtu.edu
>
>Perhaps you haven't been reading this newsgroup very long.  The subject
>of preoilers comes up from time to time as a means to extend the life of 
>an automobile engine.  The preoilers are pretty universally classed
>among the 'snake oil' cures.  Big bucks, potential problems, small return.

>Val Breault - GM Research - vbreault@gmr.com - N8OEF            \      /|

A further note about pre-oilers, AccuSump in particular.  The intended
use of Accusump is to alleviate pressure drops that occur if the oil
pump is starved by extreme cornering or braking.  In that regard
Accusump is not a snake-oil cure.  Pre-oiling, for what it's worth, is
a fringe benefit if you hook up some solenoid valves.

-andy
From: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: HORRIBLE STALLS (!) in Po
Date: 14 Dec 92 13:11:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Ye Olde Bailey BBS - Houston, TX - 713-520-1569
Reply-To: donald.wendel@yob.sccsi.com (Donald Wendel) 



SL>>>        I think it is the fuel pump or maybe a clogged fuel line.
  >>>        Or is it my Injector?  Or maybe solinoid in injection system?

SL>>>        HELP ME!

SL>>>        What is wrong?  I can't find out!



  >>>Faith Gibson

Sounds like the same to me, also possible FUEl FILTER. Also, just how
low IS your oil pressure? Some gm have a safety switch that cuts off the
fuel pump if oil pressure gets too low.. looks just like a oil sending
unit and is usually located near oil filter.
                                                        Don


 * SLMR 2.1a * I put spot remover on my dog....Spots gone!
                   
----
Ye Olde Bailey BBS
Houston,Texas
Node 1: 1 713 520 1569
yob.sccsi.com