HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carter Quadrajet?
From: dwsmall@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small)
Date: 11 Jan 93 12:55:38 -0500
Distribution: usa
Organization: Miami University Academic Computer Service"

> Is that a typo?  Everyone knows Quadrajets are (were) made by
> Rochester, right?  That's what I thought until I picked one up
> the other day that had written on the side:

No it's not a typo.  Carter has produced quite a few quadra jets.  I'm
surprised you haven't come accross this before if you are very familar
with them as you say.  As far as parts they are interchangable (or
they are supposed to be.  I've never had any problems as long as 
the parts are all form the same CFM carb.  It's been a while but
I think Rochester was the sole manufacturer of the larger 1150 CFM carb.

> Now, one quick aside:  What is the white powdery stuff I'm always
> finding in my carbs?  How do I clean it out?  Carburetor cleaner
> doesn't do a thing to this stuff.  So far I've been scraping it
> out, but what about the passages I can't get to?  It doesn't look
> like oxidation from the carb, but I can't rule it out.

Aluminum Oxide.  The curse of Quadrajets.  I never have found out
what alloy was used in these things but it really sucks for carbs.
I had one that was so bad that the needle seat would not screw into the
metal,.. or a white oxide rather.

-- 
*******************************************************************************
* Derek "Enzo" Small                   [san.dwsmall]@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu    *
*                                      Miami University, Oxford, Ohio 45056   *
*******************************************************************************
*                                                                             *
*   Long live Enzo Ferrari  !!!!!!!!                                          *
*                                                                             *
*   May his lagacy nor his cars ever collect dust.                            *
*                                                                             *
*******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Chuck@clemson.edu (Chuck Heck)
Subject: Re: Care and Feeding of Woodgrain Sides
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 22:07:14 GMT

In article <RRUSK.93Jan7161801@rcx1.ssd.csd.harris.com>, rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk) writes:
> <stuff deleted>
> I'm sorry, I thought that "woodgrain" would make it clear that I didn't
> mean real wood.  This stuff is like wood-grain contact paper only thinner.
> And yes, that is my question exactly.  Do you wax this stuff, is there
> some other kind of treatment you should put on it, etc.?
> 
I have an '89 Grand Caravan LE with the woodgrain sides.  I wash and wax the 
paint, but have never done more than wash the woodgrain trim.  It still
retains its shine.  None of the Chrysler documents (shop manual, owner's 
manual) indicate doing any more than that.
> 
> I remember back in the late 70's that the older Fords were having a
> lot of problem with their woodgrain sides.  The finish was turning
> milky.  More recently, a lot of the Caravan/Voyagers from the late
> 80's that have the woodgrain sides are having problems with the
> finish peeling on the trim strips that surround the "wood".
> 
The clear plastic covering on the trim cap pieces on my Caravan are doing
this, although none have come off.  Water gets under the plastic cover when
it rains or the vehicle gets washed.  It is only noticeable under close 
inspection though.  When not on the raod, the vehicle has been garaged, so I
guess the separation is more time related than exposure related.

> So, how does one best care for fake imitation not-quite-real stick-on vinyl 
> woodgrain on the exterior of a late-model minivan?
> 
> (Is that better?  ;^)
> 
> --
>  Bob Rusk
>  rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
>  My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
> 
Chuck
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: C3 ECM schmatics available somewhere?
Date: 12 Jan 1993 11:00:05 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

	"Could you mail me a few sources for whatever is that you're working on
at Xerox? I'll even accept xerox copies"

That's *Xerox* copies, not "xerox".  And the answer to your question is yes.
If you demonstrated faith in Xerox by buying one of their computers, I would be
happy to send you the schematics so you could repair it yourself.  That's the
way it works with every piece of electronics I've ever seen.  You can buy a
service manual for your TV, VCR, PC, computerized dishwasher, or whatever,
complete with schematics, parts layouts, and principles of operation.

Now compare this to your car: sure you can get a service manual, but it's got
this little 17 minute gap in it.  "Oh no, that's the *computer*, oh no, it's
workings are far beyond mere mortals like you - just go out and buy a whole new
one."  Well, that's fine for most people who are happy to treat the computer as
a black box.  (For that matter, most people treat the entire car that way).
But if I went out and spent big bucks to buy this GM car, and I assume the
computer within, then why *shouldn't* I be able to find out how to fix it
myself?  Why is the ECM considered a black box, but not, say, the CV joints?
Nobody's asking for source code or CIF files of any custom IC's here.

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:53:02 GMT
Subject: 56 Pup modifications
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


	I just purchased a 56 chevy custom cab and have been looking
at the suspension. I want to swap the front suspension for a late model
pickup front end, ie not a frame graft just the front cross member. I 
heard of a place in southern california that does this. Any information?

Chris Wiles
From: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: For sale: 83 Honda Civic Factory Repair Manual $10
Date: 10 Jan 93 00:14:00 GMT
Organization: UCSB Physics Department

Factory Repair Manual for 1983 Honda Civics         $10 + shipping

 o Contains much more detailed information than the 3rd party books
 o includes Station Wagon & Hatchbacks
 o good condition

                 +-------------------------------------------+
                 |         Charles R. Meyer                  |
                 |                                           |
                 | Internet: crmeyer@voodoo.physics.ucsb.edu |
                 | Bitnet:   crmeyer@voodoo                  |
                 | HEPnet:   voodoo::crmeyer                 |
                 +-------------------------------------------+

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: david@cerberus.bhpese.oz.au (David Masters)
Subject: Re: Diagnostics
Organization: BHP, Newcastle, Australia
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 03:00:47 GMT

mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com writes:

>In article <107200002@trsvax>, david@trsvax.tandy.com writes:
>> 
>> I hope this is appropriate subject for this group. I have an interest in 
>> hearing from anyone whom has an opinion about the Snap-on scanner, part
>> MT2591-2989 (Deluxe Scanner w/Fast-Track Troubleshooter System), $1,600.00.

>Don't you also get these same functions from the OTC4000 with the pathfinder
>s/w for a lot less $ ?

>Ron
>mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com

Ron,
What is this OTC4000 you mention? Sounds good. What can it do?

david
-- 
David Masters, Group Leader - UNIX, 
BHP Information Technology, Newcastle, AUSTRALIA.
Internet: david@bhpese.oz.au        	     Phone: +61 49 402132
From: dnwangus@flash.LakeheadU.Ca (Dave Angus)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Asbestos from brake pads - How to clean it up safely
Date: 4 Jan 1993 09:25:25 GMT
Organization: Lakehead University, Thunder Bay, Ont., Canada

> mmr@asgserver.canberra.edu.au (Micheal Rainford-Watson) writes:
>Recently I was changing the brake shoes on my car and noticed all the
>warnings about asbestos dust. What wasn't suggested was a way to get
>rid of it without breathing it in. Does anyone know how to do this
>safely and without any fancy tools?
>

How about hosing the brakes down with water first?  Or, wear a dust
mask.

However, I've heard that asbestos dust from brakes is not in fact
harmful.  Supposedly the fibres in brake dust have been ground so
finely that they do not cause lung damage.  I believe the article
was in _Motor_ magazine, a trade magazine for auto repair shops.
The article claimed that there was no good reason for eliminating
asbestos brake pads, other than creating more business for the 
makers of non-asbestos brake linings.

regards,
--
Dave Angus                                   "Kundalini wants his hand back"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ming@enel.ucalgary.ca (Yang Ming)
Subject: Re: Aerostar Air Problem -------------
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 19:13:03 GMT
Organization: ECE Department, U. of Calgary, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

I would check to see if the switch links are working ok. All cars use
the same fan and vent to blow hot and cool air. It the links malfunction,
they won't shut the hot channel to block the hot air, or the cool air
channel is not open, etc.

Ming.
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: RFI:Replacement longlife oxygen sensors
Date: 5 Jan 93 22:42:09 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee)
Distribution: na

> schludermann@sscvx1.ssc.gov writes:
>Sometime ago an article about replacement longlife oxygen sensors was posted.
>would any one have a copy of that article or know the brand of these oxygenm
>sensors.

I use AC-Delco oxy sensors. They have proven very long-life for me.
I have a 1982 GM-V6 with the original sensor in it and 214000 miles on it.
I also have a 1988 GM-V6 with 145000 miles on the original.

Anyone charging extra money to get longer life than the figures above
are probably selling you needless long life.
JSLee
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Greg Butler)
Subject: Re: Carter Quadrajet?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 14:59:12 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland
Distribution: usa

In article <1993Jan11.125538.14971@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> dwsmall@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small) writes:
>> Is that a typo?  Everyone knows Quadrajets are (were) made by
>> Rochester, right?  That's what I thought until I picked one up
>> the other day that had written on the side:
>
>No it's not a typo.  Carter has produced quite a few quadra jets.  I'm
>surprised you haven't come accross this before if you are very familar
>with them as you say.  As far as parts they are interchangable (or
>they are supposed to be.  I've never had any problems as long as 
>the parts are all form the same CFM carb.  It's been a while but
>I think Rochester was the sole manufacturer of the larger 1150 CFM carb.
							   ^^^^^^^^
1150 CFM?  Are you talking about a Q-jet?  According to my book,
only two sizes were ever made: 750 CFM (1-3/32-in. primary venturi) 
and 800 CFM (1-7/32-in. primary venturi).

Greg




Greg Butler
<floyd@eng.umd.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Ford Taurus Computer
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 19:57:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Bill Norcott (norcott_bill@tandem.com) wrote:
: In article <1993Jan5.190302.8197@esseye.si.com>, scholten@esseye.si.com (David Scholten) writes:

: I believe with the Taurus all you have to do is jumper the two pins
: on the STAR and the "check engine" light will flash out the codes, can
: somebody confirm this?

This is supposed to work as well, although I have not tried it on ours,
at least the '88 Engine Diagnostics manual shows this 3rd method to be
true.  Actually, I "thought" that you jumper one pin from the connector
to the loose test lead next to the connector but I'm not positive.

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/ 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: Suction cup slide hammer ?
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: world 
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 21:22:32 GMT

In <C0o9sG.Lvw@cantua.canterbury.ac.nz> deanaj@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (A. J. Dean) writes:

> (auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu) wrote:
>: It seems that I have seen a suction cup type of device to pull out dents,
>: but I can't locate one in an ad or catalog now that I need it.  Am I
>: just imagining that there is such a thing?  If not, does anyone know
>: of a mail-order source?

>I have one. I got it locally for $3.95 (about US$2.00) from a cheapo-sales
>warehouse place, there must be something similar around you. It's not the
>most impressive looking thing being an all rubber suction cup/handle/remover
>button thing, but does work.

>It may be impossible though, if the metal has been pushed in too far then
>it may have stretched and all you'll end up with is a bistable dent/bulge
>arrangement - can be very frustrating even though you do get the choice of
>which way you want your car to wear the dent!

Antony has a good point here. The only dents worth pulling out (where
there will be little if any noticeable marking) can usually be pulled
with that good old standby - the plumber's friend. Or, if you work
where there is a raised floor computer room, those double cup tile
lifters work well too. Any dent thar would need the force of a slide
hammer will leave the effect Antony describes, in my experience.

>Antony

Bob

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hlin@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (hua.t.lin)
Subject: Re: Slick 50
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:02:53 GMT

In article <7750189@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> vlj@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Victor Johnson) writes:
>>Stephen Early writes:
>> 1.  Many people feel S50 works because their gas milege went up or their
>>     vehicle has better acceleration or their vehicle starts easier.
>
>  Placebo effect.
>
>> 2.  Many people feel S50 does nothing good or bad but is simply a waste of 
>>     money.
>
>  Read the August 1991 issue of Road Rider (Motorcycle Consumer News)
>  article called "Snake Oil".
>
>> 3.  Many people feel S50 harms the vehicle by blocking oil passages, oil
>>     filters or some other undesireable effect.
>> 
>> SUMMARY
>> 
>>     No one has yet supplied any documentation that S50 does damage.
>
>  Again, read the RR article.
>
>>     Some have supplied documentation that S50 does work.
>
>  Odd.  The RR guys couldn't find ANY.
>
>>     Some have argued quite convincingly that S50 cannot work.
>> 
>> OPINION
>> 
>>     As a former S50 user I wouldn't spend the money.  Instead, just change
>>     your oil at regular intervals and perform regular maintenence.
>> 
>> Steve
>
>  I share Steve's opinion.  The most effective lubrication job S50 does
>  is sliding $$s out of your pocket and not much more.
>
>  Cheers,
>  Victor "Dances with Hydrodynamics" Johnson
>  ------------------------------------------
>

I don't believe S50 claims to improve gas mileage, at least not on its bottle.
All that it claims to do is reduce engine wear at startup. What does RR say
about that?
I recently bought a similar product by T-plus at about $11 compared with
S50's $18 at the same store. (Have used S50 on one car, planning to use
T-plus on another).
Personally, I thought the car accelerated slower and rougher just after
oil change, with S50. Usually, I can feel the car accelarate smoother
and faster after an oil change.
- HTL
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ep502ca@pts.mot.com (CHARLES ACTOR X2751 P7091)
Subject: Supercharging 5.0 Mustang
Reply-To: ep502ca@pts.mot.com
Organization: Paging and Wireless Data Group
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 19:23:15 GMT

I'm looking into purchasing a used (1-2 year old) 5.0 L Mustang.  I'd
like to bump the horsepower up to about 300.  I was looking into possibility
supercharging the car using either the Vortech or Paxton kits.  Does anyone
have experience with either of these?  Which is better and are there any
adverse effects (other than the gaping hole it will create in my wallet)
to the installation?  Is there a cheaper or simpler way to get the same HP
goal?  Thanks in advance.
From: riggert@mott.seas.ucla.edu (Eric F. Riggert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 89 Sentra CHECK ENGINE light
Date: 12 Jan 93 05:53:03 GMT
Organization: SEASnet, University of California, Los Angeles

Recently, the Check Engine light came on unexpectedly for the
sixth or so time (always seems to happen in parts of town where
I REALLY don't want to stop).

The car is a 1989 Nissan Sentra (it has an ECC), 1.6L I4 (12 valve)
with a manual transmission and about 75000 miles.

The problem is that when the light comes on, I pull over, check
everything in reason (are the gauges still working - do they say 
there is a problem, is there really oil in the engine still,
is the filter on tight or did I lose it somewhere, are all the
vacuum hoses still on right, is the throttle body still spritzing
gas right, etc., etc. - everything I can think of to check with
basically no tools).  I NEVER find anything obviously wrong.

Here's the weird part - I get in the car and start limping to 
the nearest offramp or whatever, and the light usually goes back
out!  Two things to notice:  The engine is running fine the
WHOLE time, and the light is NOT SUPPOSED TO GO OUT.

I used to just think - "Oh, must of got some bad gas and the 
ECC is upset at the amount of emissions - oh there, the light
went out, the gunk must have burned up".  Then I looked in the
Nissan Service Manual which basically shows that the computer
(apparently) doesn't work that way - it is NOT supposed to
reset until 50 start ups OR the code is cleared by digging the
ECC out from under the seat and getting the fault code (which
clears it too).

So what's happening?  Beats me.  The thing I'm worried about 
is that all this crying wolf is going to cause me to ignore
that damn light once when I shouldn't.... I just don't TRUST
it.

If anyone's had something similar happen, please let me know...

Thanks,
--= Eric =--


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu
Subject: Suction cup slide hammer ?
Organization: Auburn University, AL
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 17:54:56 GMT

I have a large (~10"x20") dent in the lower panel behind the door of my
car.  The paint is not scratched or cracked, and there are no sharp 
creases.  I think that it would pop out OK, but I can't get to the back
of it.  I know that there are slide hammers that screw into the sheet
metal to pull it out, but that requires repairing the hole and painting.
It seems that I have seen a suction cup type of device to pull out dents,
but I can't locate one in an ad or catalog now that I need it.  Am I
just imagining that there is such a thing?  If not, does anyone know
of a mail-order source?

Thanks,

Steve
From: tlp30@duts.ccc.amdahl.com (Tim Pettenati)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: *** 87 Chrysler 2.2 Liter Engine ---Mixture Stuck Ritch--HELP!!!!!
Keywords: Fuel injection haywire
Date: 11 Jan 93 19:58:49 GMT
Reply-To: tlp30@DUTS.ccc.amdahl.com (Tim Pettenati)
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

In article <1993Jan11.151918.21590@cbnewsd.cb.att.com> hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo) writes:
>My 87 Plymouth Reliant flunked its emission control test due to too 
>much O and other components indicating overly rich mixture.
>
>I dumped the diagnostic codes, and got nothing. So, I replaced all four plugs
>all four plug wires, as well as the distributor cap and rotor and retarded the
>ignition slightly.
>
>On the second test, it flunked again.
>
>I replaced the O2 sensor, and reset the timing to specs, 12 degrees BTDC.
>
>On starting the engine, it runs fine until it warms up, then runs roughly,
>a classic symptom of over-rich mixture.
>
>Now, when I dump the diagnostic codes, I get a 52, which indicates that the
>mixture is stuck rich. I checked the injector by unplugging it and cranking the 
>engine. No leakage was detected.
>
>I'm at the end of my rope. The Chiltons guide DOES NOT GIVE ANY PROCEEDURE
>for dealing with this failure. Does anybody have any idea what the %#&*%$
>is wrong???  Heeeeelllllp!!!!
>                                                       Larry Mayo
>
It sounds like you have a problem with the coolant temperature sensor.
The ECM isn't detecting that your car is warmed up, and keeping the
mixture rich. (Is your car really warming up? Thermostat OK?)
F.Y.I. - My Dodge (85 Lancer 2.2L turbo) had a code 51 (latched lean)
which cleared after replacing the O2 sensor.  This problem didn't cause
the car to fail a smog test, but caused bucking on hills. I don't have to
downshift as much anymore. ;-)

--
	The opinions expressed above are mine, solely, and do not
	necessarily reflect the opinions or policies of Amdahl Corp.
From: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com (Bob Rusk)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Date: 5 Jan 93 15:43:16 GMT
Reply-To: rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
Organization: Harris Computer Systems Division

In article <1993Jan4.233442.7561@wixer.cactus.org>, will@wixer.cactus.org (Bill Staniewicz) writes:

>I was just watching C-span today and they featured a
>soviet engine company on the Moscow Evening News.

>They produce air-cooled diesel engines that are claimed
>to out perform the liquid cooled variety and can operate
>at extremely high and low temperatures. Also, they are
>supposed to be cheaper.

>Did anyone see this program and have any comments to these
>claims? Also, would anyone know the name of this company
>and some information about the engines?

I'm not familiar with this company, its engines or its claims, but the
German (?) firm Deutz produces air-cooled diesels with very good
reputations.  They have even demonstrated that some of their
air-cooled diesels are quieter than corresponding water-cooled models.
I have worked with some of these engines in medium-size portable
generators and air compressors, and also saw a lot of them powering
large dump trucks in Chile a few years ago.  My impression was that
they were quiet, efficient, and powerful.


--
 Bob Rusk
 rrusk@ssd.csd.harris.com
 My thoughts, probably not Harris'.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Suction cup slide hammer ?
From: deanaj@elec.canterbury.ac.nz (A. J. Dean)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 04:29:04 GMT
Organization: Electrical Engineering, University of Canterbury, New Zealand
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

 (auidcc@ducvax.auburn.edu) wrote:
: It seems that I have seen a suction cup type of device to pull out dents,
: but I can't locate one in an ad or catalog now that I need it.  Am I
: just imagining that there is such a thing?  If not, does anyone know
: of a mail-order source?

I have one. I got it locally for $3.95 (about US$2.00) from a cheapo-sales
warehouse place, there must be something similar around you. It's not the
most impressive looking thing being an all rubber suction cup/handle/remover
button thing, but does work.

It may be impossible though, if the metal has been pushed in too far then
it may have stretched and all you'll end up with is a bistable dent/bulge
arrangement - can be very frustrating even though you do get the choice of
which way you want your car to wear the dent!

Antony
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech