HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mgooley@advtech.uswest.com (Mark. Gooley)
Subject: how to age mead & melomels?
Organization: U S WEST Advanced Technologies
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 20:07:17 GMT

I tried the mead-lovers list & got no responses, so...

First batch of mead I made was ginger-lemon.  It fermented in a few weeks
from OG of about 1.080 to FG around 0.997.  Fermentation around 65 to 70 F,
bottling right after it cleared (about 3 weeks), Lalvin champagne yeast.
It looks like champagne, smells like champagne spiked with furniture polish,
and tastes unpleasant -- not spoiled, just nasty: ginger bite, harsh lemon
flavor, some yeastiness.  A month further aging in the bottles has helped
a little, perhaps.

Second batch: melomel with kiwi fruit, pineapple-juice concentrate, ginger.
Racked after a week (prematurely?) to secondary.  Fermentation now seems to
be winding down: OG around 1.100, now about 1.010 after about a month total.
Thick yeast sediment on the bottom, topped with residual fruit debris.

Third batch: honey, ditilled water, nutrients: 1/3 honey by volume.  OG
1.105, currently above 1.060 after several weeks, slow ferment in primary.

1. Can I hope for better things from the first batch?
2. Should I rack the second batch to a tertiary for further aging -- get it
off the sediment?
3. Can I just leave the third batch in its primary until fermentation stops?
4. What temperature is best for aging mead?

Mark.
mgooley@advtech.uswest.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: 2 Litre Plastic Bottles
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:09:27 GMT

In article <725003015.28336@zooid.guild.org>
 silver.e@zooid.guild.org (Eric Silver) writes:

>1.) Is anyone aware of regular HBr's using plastic bottles (RC Cola/Coke/
>whatever) and if so, assuming I ensure that I have twist on caps that 
>are in good condition, and I've done things up to the point of racking 
>correctly, what are likely to be my results? 

I think you are referring to screw-caps, ones which screw on and off.  These 
are very different from twist-offs.  I have very good success with the 
bottles with solid white plastic caps, but don't really trust the ones with 
flimsy metal caps.  Just treat it like any other bottle.

>2.) Is anyone aware of a bottle capper that uses screw on caps (obviously
>new blanks) and if so, how much and where could it be obtained?

Not sure what you are asking here.  Are you saying you think there might be 
a machine for home use that screws on caps for you for 2-liter bottles?  If 
so, I haven't heard of one.

If you are asking about using bottle caps on twist-off glass bottles with 
threads, you need a good quality bottle capper, as the cheaper ones will 
tend to break the bottle or ruin the threads and get a poor seal.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Compuserve
Date: 29 Dec 92 03:00:58 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL


 
 Article 7767 (31 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
 From: jerryg@jaiser.pail.com (Jerry Gaiser)
 
 >As do I. I also run a free access waffle system to access 
 the brewing newsgroups.
 
 What's a waffle?
 
 js
From: kludge@grissom.larc.nasa.gov (Scott Dorsey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Xylitol info
Date: 21 Dec 1992 20:25:54 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center and Reptile Farm
NNTP-Posting-Host: grissom.larc.nasa.gov

In article <1h57fpINNddb@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> djt2@po.CWRU.Edu (Dennis J. Templeton) writes:
>
>From Stanbury, "The Inherited basis of Metaboloic Disease"  P 121 "Sorbitol, 
>a sugar alcohol sometimes used as an ingredient in "diabetic" chocolate... 
>is quantitatively converted to fructose by the liver and metabolized as
>fructose."  This doesn't SAY that it is absorbed by the gut, but it sure
>implies it, therefore sorbitol should be absorbed ok and not cause
>diarrhoea problems.

It does cause such problems.  15g is fine, but 50g (about ten of those
Sorbee candies) definitely cause an effect.  I discovered this quite
independantly (since the secretary at work has a large bowl of the things
on her desk).

>On the other hand, Xylitol is $50 per kilo in the Sigma catalog,
>Sorbitol is $11.80, and Lactose is $9.50. Prices and availability at a
>foodstuff source will vary considerably.  

Sigma's prices are a bit high, anyway.  Your best bet for something like
this would be a lab supply that caters to food scientists.

>Another consideration, would you rather tell your guests that you had put
>"milk sugar" or xylitol in their beer?

Hmm... now, we could probably take grains directly, hydrogenate and
hydrolyze the starch in them to produce sugar alcohols.  Then you wouldn't
have to tell them anything at all...
--scott
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Bottling
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 13:53:15 GMT

In article <725000059.F00001@tdkt.kksys.com>
 Ewan.Grantham@f62.n282.z1.tdkt.kksys.com (Ewan Grantham) writes:

>1) S.G. at room temp (~72F) appeared to be 80. Little low isn't it?

Yow!  What scale are you using to get "80"?  Is that shorthand for Specific 
Gravity of 1.008?  If so, it is pretty reasonable, depending on what the 
original S.G. was, say 1.03X.

>2) When bottling, should you bottle/cap, bottle/cap; or 
>bottle/bottle/bottle cap/cap/cap ?


I bottle/bottle/... until I am finished, often resting the cap loosely on 
top.  This theoretically allows some time for CO2 production to drive out 
some of the air in the bottle.  Then I cap everything in the order I bottled 
it.

>3) Finally, tasted the beer I had tested in the tester tube, and seemed to 
>be lacking body. Could this be because I'm not used to flat beer?

Could be.  Or the beer could just not have a lot of body.  Hard to tell, 
really.  Beer does taste really different without carbonation, especially 
the high levels often expected in North America.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: hamilton@miki.pictel.com (Charlie Hamilton)
Subject: Re: Best Brewing Tunes?
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:32:40 GMT

In article <01050166.lj1bnd@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>
>So, does anyone out there have a favored musical brewing accompaniment?
>
>I nominate Carmina Burana.  It 1) gets you in that ol' Excalibur mood,
>and 2) certainly is topical!  (In fact, note the latest sig.)
>
>Of course, Frank Zappa isn't so bad either after the first couple
>of homebrews.
>
>================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
>uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
>2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
>Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
>redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.


Yes, Zappa is good. In fact, I have a "Zappa for President" bumper
sticker on one of my carboys. I also like listening to bluegrass. It
makes you feel like some drunken hillbilly, brewin' beer and shootin'
at the pesky revenooers. Also, Hot Tuna, the dead, the Sex Pistols,
classical, hell, any good music goes great with homebrewing.


Charlie (hamilton@pictel.com)
From: ceb@dbrus.Unify.Com (Caroline E. Bryan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Xstitch, metallic thread, celtic patterns
Date: 31 Dec 92 20:40:43 GMT
Organization: /usr/lib/news/organization

In article <C0454K.5sw@world.std.com> knighton@world.std.com (Gwen Knighton) writes:
>Oops. My file didn't include . . . 
>
>I'm about to start a project which includes some metallic thread work.
>I've never worked with metallics before, and the thread I have is much
>more brittle than regular embroidery floss. Any tips from the experts
>on making it easier to work with? Also, this thread is 4-ply, and I
>expect it will be difficult to separate. What's the best way to separate
>metallic thread without resorting to violence :-( ?

A shirt I owned in college had metallic embroidery on it.  What the maker
did was to lay the metallic thread flat on the fabric and then fasten it
to the fabric with couching stitches of a single strand of a similar color.
You couldn't tell unless you looked very closely.  The metallic thread was
one-ply, but very thick.  If your metallic area is stem or satin stitch you
might consider doing it that way.


Carrie		ceb@rechenau.unify.com	x6244
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| "Of life the mingled wine and brine I sit and sip pipslipsily." - Anon. |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Washing hanks of wool
Date: 27 Dec 92 15:59:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 


On Tue, 22 Dec 1992 00:06:48 GMT Barrie Trinkle wrote:

-> But that's not a problem when you're reusing yarn--after the yarn has
-> shrunk, you just knit it again!  So you have a little "less" yarn than
-> you did before--no big deal, unless you want to make something the
-> same size as the garment that was previously knitted out of the yarn!
-> (Plus, I would think of it as a "bonus" that the yarn was pre-shrunk--
-> means I wouldn't have to worry as much about the knitted item shrinking
-> when it's washed.)

Shrinking is very close to felting.  If the yarn starts to felt it will
lose elasticity, and it can still shrink more if improperly washed.

Nancy Rose via Fibernet

---
 . JABBER v1.2 #21 .
From: gts@po.CWRU.Edu (Grace T. Soule)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Scotland
Date: 31 Dec 1992 02:08:51 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: gts@po.CWRU.Edu (Grace T. Soule)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


I am going to Scotland this summer and REALLY want to come back
with a lot of yarn.  Does anyone have any recommendations,
suggestions, etc. as to locations or specific shops to hit
while I'm there?  Thanks in advance. . . .

Todd Downs
gts@po.CWRU.Edu

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: esther@rayssd.ssd.ray.com (Esther A. Paris)
Subject: cross stitch patterns with tropical scenes
Organization: Raytheon Equipment Division, Marlboro, MA
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:45:37 GMT

My sister-in-law asked me to post this... and I'm unfaithful
about reading this newsgroup so I'm likely to miss a response
posted here.  So please email me if you can help me/her/us out.
Thanks!  The email address would be esther@demand.ed.ray.com.

Anyway, my sister-in-law just moved to south western Florida
and she is desperately seeking counted cross stitch patterns
with tropical scenes on it... such as palm trees, hibiscus
flowers, pretty sea shells, sand dollars, beach scenes, etc.
The only things she's found are sea shell patterns that are
mostly browns and tans which she did not like.  Anyone know
of a book or artist with an emphasis on other tropical/beach
scenes for counted cross stitch?  

Thanks in advance for any response... If you'd like your
response to be shared with everyone, please post with a carbon
copy to me in email at esther@demand.ed.ray.com  THANKS THANKS
THANKS!

Best wishes for a happy and joyous and blessed and peaceful
holiday season and throughout 1993!  God bless!  Esther Paris
at Raytheon Equipment Division in Marlborough, MA

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Esther Paris, Raytheon EDL, Marlborough, MA esther@demand.ed.ray.com
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Italian silk
Date: 23 Dec 92 07:39:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 


On Sunday, 13 Dec 1992 01:32:17 GMT dmd2@ra.msstate.edu (David Dumas)
wrote:

NR.->Does anyone know of a good source for quality Italian silk?

If you mean yarn, try The Silk Tree, Dept. H, Box 78, Whonnock, B.C.,
Canada V0M 1S0.  Phone is 604-462-9707 and samples are $5

Nancy Rose via Fibernet BBS
.AME 1.07.
. QWiKerNet 0.69 . Fibernet BBS Henning, Mn 218-583-4337

---
 . JABBER v1.2 #21 .
From: kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Kristen McQuillin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Hey, Koolaid!
Date: 31 Dec 92 22:38:14 GMT
Article-I.D.: telerama.1992Dec31.223814.4726
Organization: Telerama
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

ok (martini@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu) wrote:
: when dying with koolaid, how many packages of the unsugared stuff are
: recommended for how much yardage or poundage?  do you need to use salt?

I generally use four to six packets per pound, no salt. The color
intensity seems to be a function of time. The longer the wool sits in
the dye bath, the brighter the color is. No KoolAid dye I've ever done
has been dark, just bright.

I've noticed that the blue dyes don't take very well -- green koolaid
dyes to chartreuse, purple is more a bluish pink, etc.

Have fun!

--Kristen McQuillin
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: Marina.Salume@corp.sun.com (Marina Salume)
Subject: Re: wholesale crafts in San Francisco
Organization: Cornell University, Ithaca NY
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 17:29:31 GMT

>The subject line should say it all. Does anyone have a list of wholesale
>craft supply stores in the San Francisco area?

I'd be interested in this list, also. Thanks!

--marina

Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:2444 alt.sewing:3631
From: ctopp@cup.portal.com (Carol F Topp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
Subject: Beginning dying
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 92 12:13:09 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

I have tried to cross post this in rec.crafts.textiles and alt.sewing


I have come up with an idea for a project to do that would
require dying fabric. I will have only one chance using the
material for the actual project. I would like some annecdotal
information on beginning dying. 

Interests -

What were your first projects, how successful were they

Suggestions for beginning projects.

Suggestions of any books that might guide me.

How long before you felt confident in your abilities to get the
      results you expect.

I've read about quilters who dye all of their fabrics in order to
get the shades they want! My only experience was tie-dying in summer
camp in the 1960's, but I don't recall getting the predicted colors.

I have a collection of previous posts of sources for dyes, but I don't
recall seeing any posts about experiences.

Thanks

Carol        ctopp@cup.portal.com
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: felting
Date: 27 Dec 92 15:38:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 

-> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
-> Subject: felting

On Thu, 24 Dec 1992, Holly.Doyne@f172.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Holly Doyne)
wrote:

-> another handy item is a large bread tray ( or other flat surface that will
-> prevent water from going all over the place)

But under the washboard, because you need the rough surface to hold the
wool back while you push it.
>
-> or screennetting (not metal) - that you can rub on top of, then roll up, fasten
-> with rubber bands and throw in the washing machine.

That's a neat idea I have never heard before.  That would eliminate sewing
the piece into netting to hold the shape, I think.

Nancy Rose via Fibernet BBS
---
 . JABBER v1.2 #21 .
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Removing stain in old qui
Date: 27 Dec 92 16:18:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 

 NR. -> This isn't
 NR. -> your fault, it's just that Unix gives only line feeds and no carriage returns
 NR. -> unless you do them manually.
 NR.
 NR. I didn't know that.  The Amiga also uses line feeds without carriage
 NR. returns.  Search-and-replace is SO helpful for getting rid of those nasty
 NR. carriage returns but I suppose you use it for putting them in.

It's not that easy unfortunately.  I think that this may be a historical
question, because the schism between Mac/Amiga/etc and IBM was partly a
worry about copyright/patent infringement.  Apple generated a new system
that was totally IBM independent and even the IBM clone makers
deliberately made their products not 100% compatible in order to avoid
lawsuits.  IBM then did not sue anyone, so clones became as 100%
compatible as is possible in the real world, and here we are today.

This is pure bs, but I imagine that the CR was integral to a company
that had the market on electric typewriters all tied up at one point.
To not have a CR with a LF would be unthinkable - grin.

 NR. ---
 NR.  . AME 1.07 .
---
 . JABBER v1.2 #21 .
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: felting
Date: 23 Dec 92 13:51:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 

 Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
 Subject: Re: felting

On 15 Dec 92 14:59:53 GMT kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Kristen McQuillin)
   wrote:

 KM. I thought I could help with the fleece information, but I seem to have
 KM. mislaid all the great info I got at FiberFest this summer...when I
 KM. find it I will post the felting comparison chart.

That would be super useful and interesting.  Good hunting.

Ron Parker
ron.parker%uttsbbs%boo@pacbell.com

 KM. ---
 KM.  . QWiKerNet 0.69 . The Transfer Station BBS, Danville CA 510-837-5591
---
 . JABBER v1.2 #21 .
 . QWiKerNet 0.69 . Fibernet BBS Henning, Mn 218-583-4337
From: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: source of walnut crochet
Date: 23 Dec 92 14:25:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Transfer Station BBS, Danville, CA - 510-837-4610/837-5591
Reply-To: ron.parker@uttsbbs.uucp (Ron Parker) 

 Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
 Subject: source of walnut crochet hooks
On Date: 23 Dec 1992 02:09:50 GMT aheckman@nde.unl.edu (alice heckman)
wrote:

 AH. Help!!  I had a beautiful wooden crochet hook that was made out of walnut
 AH. wood.  It had an ornate handle and was a joy to use.  After years of
 AH. about.

 AH. So-o-o, does anyone know where I can obtain these hooks?  It seems to me
 AH. that I have seen them advertised somewhere in the recent past, but I can't

Here's a long shot Alice.  At the 1989 World Congress on Coloured Sheep in
Eugene, OR there was a vendor with a line of beautiful crochet hooks and other
fiber tools made of a variety of beautiful woods.  I checked the program and,
sure enough,  there is a list Trade Show displayers.  The only one that looks
right is McCune Woodcarving, 313 N. Sacramento St., Willows, CA 95988.  If
they aren't the ones, I'll bet they'd know who was.

Ron Parker
ron.parker%uttsbbs%boo@pacbell.com
 AH. ---
 AH.  . QWiKerNet 0.69 . The Transfer Station BBS, Danville CA 510-837-5591
---
 . JABBER v1.2 #21 .
 . QWiKerNet 0.69 . Fibernet BBS Henning, Mn 218-583-4337
From: posenau@suntory.larc.nasa.gov (Maryanne Posenau)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Washing hanks of wool
Date: 24 Dec 1992 13:53:26 GMT
Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA  USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: suntory.larc.nasa.gov

>
>Dawn Scotting writes:
>>I HOPE you are not talking about pure wool here? ... I would  
>>never, never put pure wool into hot water, it shrinks like the billy-o!  
>>
Barrie Trinkle writes:
>...But that's not a problem when you're reusing yarn--after the yarn has
>shrunk, you just knit it again! ...
>(Plus, I would think of it as a "bonus" that the yarn was pre-shrunk--
...

<I'm not sure if the attributions are straight, but you get the gist>

Pre-shrunk yarn seems to be a sensible thought, so it makes me wonder
why we don't do it.  We pre-shrink fabrics before sewing, what makes
yarn different?  The yardage would no longer be accurate, but if the
designer had presumably done the same thing (i.e., "requires xxx yards
of yarn blah (yardage before pre-shrinking)"), then it ought to work
out.  There's variability in the amount of yarn required anyway,
what's a little more uncertainty? :-) Ideas?  Answers?  More
questions?

-- 
Mary-Anne Posenau
m.a.k.posenau@larc.nasa.gov
From: ajones@charlie.usd.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Removing stain in old quilts
Date: 22 Dec 92 22:15:04 GMT
Reply-To: ajones@charlie.usd.edu
Organization: The University of South Dakota Computer Science Dept.

My wife and I collect and "restore" old quilts. Some of these have very nasty "rust" stains of one kind or another. Are there any methods, recipes, or techniques for removing these without destoying or altering fabric and color? Please respond directly to my Internet address. Thank you.
Allan Jones
From: ilaine@panix.com (Liz Stokes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Xstitch, metallic thread, celtic patterns
Date: 31 Dec 92 14:20:57 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <C0454K.5sw@world.std.com> knighton@world.std.com (Gwen Knighton) writes:
>I'm about to start a project which includes some metallic thread work.
>I've never worked with metallics before, and the thread I have is much
>more brittle than regular embroidery floss. Any tips from the experts
>on making it easier to work with? Also, this thread is 4-ply, and I
>expect it will be difficult to separate. What's the best way to separate
>metallic thread without resorting to violence :-( ?
	I'm not sure how to separate, I haven't used that kind of stuff, but
your best bet for sewing is to use a frame and pull the thread through 
top-to-bottom and bottom-to-top. It gets less wear that way than when you
stitch from the top only down-and-up in one draw. I know that sounds contrary,
but there is less friction on the thread if you pull it straight down and
straight up - it doesn't rub against the nearby threads as much.
		-Liz


-- 
Liz Stokes         | 	Ilaine's E-Z Garb Workshop
Ilaine de Cameron  | 	We're going to try an experiment now. Instead of using
                   | 	a loom, we're going to wind all the yarn into balls
ilaine@panix.com   |    and adopt an infinite number of kittens...
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:2449 alt.sewing:3634
From: ctopp@cup.portal.com (Carol F Topp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Beginning DYEing
Date: Fri,  1 Jan 93 17:30:21 PST
Organization: The Portal System (TM)

Yes I recognize my mis-spelling in my previous post  :-(

Although I welcomed the new year with a sore throat and upset
tummy, I do not believe I am dying.

Carol
From: martini@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (ok)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Hey, Koolaid!
Date: 31 Dec 92 15:39:16 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

when dying with koolaid, how many packages of the unsugared stuff are
recommended for how much yardage or poundage?  do you need to use salt?

and how dark of a color does one get? 

thanks,
sheilagh
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles