HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu (VU Science Library)
Subject: Re: Weights
Organization: Vanderbilt University 
Distribution: alt.sewing
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 21:58:44 GMT

In article <MARG.92Sep29154852@media-lab.media.mit.edu> 
marg@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Margaret Minsky) writes:

>A while ago when I started using weights and a rotary cutter, I posted
>that the best weights I found were tape dispensers. We happen to have
>a lot of heavy office tape dispensers, which are about 3" by 8", and
>have nice thick rubber pads on the bottom. They are pretty expensive,
>we got them as a gift from someone who found them on 99 cents closeout
>sale...they are usually about $10 so not worth buying for pattern
>weights.
>
>It makes me think though...Most regular cans and jars don't have flat
>enough bottoms...but has anyone tried cementing rubber or felt pads on
>the bottoms? Both of those materials are pretty cheap.

I have read (here?  in a magazine?  where?) of taking clay and shot and
filling the inside of a jar top and then glueing felt pads on top and 
bottom to make pattern weights.  



--
	Carlin Sappenfield - vusl@athena.cas.vanderbilt.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles,sci.misc
From: fred@cc.ysu.edu (Fred Ullom)
Subject: Mothproofing?
Organization: Youngstown State University
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 13:06:20 GMT

Does anybody know what chemicals are used in mothproofing wool? Does this
prevent the moth from eating it or does the little bugger take a bite and
die? It seems to me that if he eats it and dies, the damage has already been
done and the product would be more properly termed "moth-resisent".	

Thanks,	
-Fred

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------        
Fred S. Ullom                                                                   
tacon019@ysub.ysu.edu                                                           
Youngstown State University                                                     
------------------------------------------------------------------------        
Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2864 rec.crafts.textiles:1737
From: rrah@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Runa Rahman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Enviromentally-conscious sewing
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:10:25 GMT
Organization: University of Rochester (Rochester, NY)

I have always been a big fan of natural fibers because of their comfort,
good looks, durability AND because they don't hurt the enviroment.

But it is so hard to find all-natural stuff at most fabric stores.  I
wish mercerized cotton and silk thread were more widely available in a 
wide range of colors, for example.  Does anyone know of a "earth" sewing
supply mail-order source?

I know synthetics are cheaper, strong and easy-care, but I think our earth 
should take precedence over convenience and low prices (we can buy and use
fewer clothes).  I hope to start a discussion here on the topic - any input
from others?

Also, is there a knowledgeable person who could tell us about the biode-
gradability and recycling possibilities for synthetic fibers used in
yarn and fabric, like polyester, nylon, acetate, acrylic (I believe these
are plastics?)?  I read of an English company that collects old sweaters
and shreds them to make new yarn and sweaters - the best use for the the
sythetics already made I can think of.

Runa
Date: Friday, 2 Oct 1992 19:49:40 EST
From: Wendy Campbell <WCAMPBEL@vma.cc.nd.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Victorian Era Clothing

Sorry but my last partial message was not supposed to go out.  I goofed.

I need to know where I can find patterns for Victorian Era clothing.  Any
help you can give will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Wendy Campbell

........................................................................
Wendy Campbell                     *   *   *   *   *
wcampbel@vma.cc.nd.edu            \|/ \|/ \|/ \|/ \|/
Take time to smell the flowers     *   *   *   *   *
                                  \|/ \|/ \|/ \|/ \|/
........................................................................
From: delena@roth-music.com (Delena E. Roth)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: cheaper buttons?
Date: 27 Sep 92 22:35:42 GMT
Reply-To: delena@roth-music.com (Delena E. Roth)
Organization: DAVID A. ROTH MUSIC
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v4


In article <19lptjINN3ti@gap.caltech.edu> (alt.sewing), kloomis@cco.caltech.edu (Kate E. Loomis) writes:
> I've been wondering, with all this mail-order stuff for fabric, etc., 
> if there is a place to buy inexpensive notions like buttons, snaps, 
> etc. I mean, I have a hard time thinking about all the money I'm 
> "saving" by making my own clothes, only to spend ridiculous amounts
> of money on buttons, etc. (my wedding dress buttons cost $13 all told). 
> Is there an alternative to the chain fabric store for buttons??
> 
> Kate
> 
>
Try discount close-out stores.  There is a chain called "Odd Lots"
here in Columbus and the Midwest that buys out merchandise from stores
that are going under or manufacturers that are clearing out discontinued
lines.  They then offer the merchandise at really low prices.  I found
(and bought) some cover-it-yourself buttons at Odd Lots that were
fine.  

Generally, I think it can often be a cost-saver to cover your own
buttons rather than buy fancy buttons.  They look a bit more tailored,
IMHO.

Delena
 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: amy@redwood.cray.com (Amy Bohachek)
Subject: Halloween Costumes
Originator: amy@redwood
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 6 Oct 92 07:22:40 CDT


I'm looking for ideas on how to make a hat for a witch costume.
I was planning on getting some black fabric from an old dress 
and somehow creating a hat.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

thanks,

amy :)

	Minnesota - Land of 2 seasons: Winter is coming, Winter is here.
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: cowpatti@netcom.com (Patricia Mae Anthony)
Subject: Re: interfacing question
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 01:10:54 GMT

In article <1992Sep27.194204.27398@csus.edu> vpmath1@sfsuvax1.sfsu.edu (Ruth Radetsky) writes:
>Is there any reason not to use plain white cotton as interfacing fabric
>on a silk blouse that is going to be drycleaned?
>Also, does anyone know of a pattern for a peasant type blouse:
>(square yoke front and back, very loose fitting, big sleeves, cuffs
>or chemise dress with top fitting that description)
>in a size 20 or there abouts?  or one I can alter to that description?

In David Page Coffin's book about shirmaking, he recommends using soft
cotton fabric for interfacing.  in fact, he specifically refers to
Oxford cloth.  I don't remember seeing anything syaing not to use it 
with silk, but my own preferences are to use the same silk as
interfacing.

CowPatti
-- 

@>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,-->  @>-`,--> @>-`,-->
          (__)        (__)        (__)      ^
          (oo)        (oo)        (oo)     /
      _____\/__________\/__________\/_____/        D A N C E S 
     /  /\ / /      /\ / /      /\ / /
    ^  /  * /      /  * /      /  * /                W I T H
      / ___/      / ___/      / ___/     
 *----/W     *----/W     *----/W                   H O O V E S
     /  \        /  \        /  \
    /   /       /   /       /   /
   ^    ^      ^    ^      ^    ^
<--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`, <@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@  <--`,-<@

Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2889 rec.crafts.textiles:1742
From: tabbott@milton.u.washington.edu (Tina Abbott)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Environmentally-conscious sewing
Date: 28 Sep 92 23:59:25 GMT
Reply-To: tabbott@u.washington.edu
Followup-To: Kay Klier's comments
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle

Natural fibers are not as safe or environmentally conscious as we would be
made to believe.  They each have their problems!!  And we each have a
responsibility to be aware of the impact our decisions in our crafts and
beyond are having on the earth, the health of the people who provided the
materials, and our health and the health of our loved ones.  There is not
a simple solution.
From: riggle@adobe.com (Kathleen Riggle)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Large envelopes for patterns, expensive tastes
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:27:03 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

In article <1a7l15INNgu8@roundup.crhc.uiuc.edu> mary@uicsl.csl.uiuc.edu (Mary E. Allison) writes:
>rrah@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Runa Rahman) writes:
>
>>In article <TIGGER.92Sep19105749@satyr.Sylvan.COM> tigger@satyr.Sylvan.COM (Grace Sylvan) writes:
>>>    I would just take a large envelope, 9x12? and put the pattern into it,
>>>    and just label the outside. Easier than trying to refold and stuff the
>>>    pieces all back into the tiny envelope.
>>> 
>
>>Yes, I have seen this tip before - Rusty Bensussen uses this method to store
>>ALL her patterns.  She says she mostly buys designer patterns which comes in
>>larger envelopes anyways - they must be Vogue patterns.  That's what I've
>>been doing lately, too.
>
>     I use 9x12 envelopes, cut the picture from the front of the
>pattern envelope and tape it to the 9x12 envelope.  It's the perfect
>size for a file drawer and you can flip through the envelopes and look
>at the pretty pictures.  I put the back of the envelope INSIDE the
>9x12.  

I go one compulsive step farther.  I cut open my pattern envelope,
mount it on regular paper and then put that in a protective sheet
cover.  I put these in a 3-ring binder.  I take the pattern "guts" and
instruction sheets and put those in ziploc bags.  I file these
numerically.  So, now I have a pattern book that I can flip through to
decide what I want to make rather than flipping through all the
patterns.  I can take this to the store to buy notions; that
information is contained on the back of most patterns.  If it's not and
is only on the instruction sheet, I photocopy that and place it in
the book.

For the pattern envelopes that are larger (Stretch-n-Sew, Sunrise
Designs) or the patterns that I just can't bear to cut up (Heirloom
Sewing patterns) I photocopy the pictures and yardage info and put
that in my pattern book.

This wasn't my idea.  I got it from one of the instructors at Canada
College.  If you ever get a chance to take their Organizing Your
Sewing class, it's worth it.

Kathie

-- 
riggle@adobe.com
From: gorman@acsu.buffalo.edu (Anne-Marie K. Gorman)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Matching notches
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:30:45 GMT
Organization: UB


I've been making baby rompers out of striped material, and in sewing
the seams I found that if I wanted the stripes to match, I had to 
fudge/ignore matching the notches, dots, etc.  (This despite quite
careful cutting out).  What exactly is the purpose of these markings?  
The suits came out fine, but then baby clothes aren't exactly fitted.
My nightmare would be a fitted dress made out of striped taffeta!


Anne-Marie

-- 
===============================================================================
Anne-Marie K. Gorman          Sophie and Teresa (9 months old) are standing and
Human factors/ergonomics      cruising!  Time flies twice as fast when you're
University at Buffalo         having twice as much fun.
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: <None>
From: dvorah@agri.huji.ac.il
Date: 1 Oct 92 09:08:26 IST
Distribution: world
Organization: The Hebrew University of Jerusalem - Faculty of Agriculture

take out your yardsticks, please!
After sewing for any period of time, i get backaches.
I sew on my dining room table. I want to have a sewing table made,
and I'd like to know what are standard hights for sewing tables.
 I have a bernina 930 and I'm 5ft4, but probably short of leg compared
to average.
what is the hight both of the surface the machine rests on and of the
part that comes up around the free sewing arm ?
thanks
(send replies directly to me)
dvorah@agri.huji.ac.il
or dvorah@huijagri.bitnet

Xref: sparky alt.sewing:2867 rec.crafts.textiles:1739
From: m1ges01@fed.frb.gov (Gretchen E Schmidt)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: coat making:  any advice?
Date: 26 Sep 92 15:28:37 GMT
Reply-To: m1ges01@fed.frb.gov (Gretchen E Schmidt)
Followup-To: alt.sewing
Organization: Federal Reserve Board, Wash, DC

Susan richmodn writes:
	I am from sunny, warm Fla. and will be travelling to St.Paul this winter for
 	their winter carnival.  I understand the average daily temp is 20 f.
	I have no idea how to dress for this kind of weather.  I've never
	even seen snow.  If anyone can offer some suggestions I would greatly
	appreciate it.  I also want to make a nice coat and would like recommendations
  	on how thick a lining I should use as we will be spending lots of time
  	outside.  I may even make gloves!  I've heard that a coat with a zipper
  	is almost neccessary because it can get windy....

 	Like I said above....any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
  	I am looking at wool or a nice, short napped synthetic fur..which may
  	be hard to find in fla...

Susan,

Do you really want to spend as much time as it takes to make a heavy winter coat and gloves?  Remember, you'll be sitting under all those layers in warm Florida while you sew.  I was going to suggest looking at Goodwill, but most people have probably donated their coats before they moved south.  How about asking a snowbird if you can borrow one?

The best advice for cold weather wear is layering.  Also, wool will be _much_ warmer than a synthetic fur.  Actually, I would think the fur would be easier to find since it can be used for stuffed animals.  If you do go this route, you'll want a nice warm lining and maybe some, uh, what's it called, ... Thinsulate.  By all means make a thick, soft scarf.  Little effort, great payoff :-).

I _am_ jealous of your trip, though.  I used to have a roommate from St. Paul and she really missed it.  I hope you'll let us know what you decide and how much fun you have in the snow!

HTH,
Gretchen  (Looking forward to _maybe_ going to Vermont next weekend, if my dad's girlfriend can't make it.)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: tabbott@milton.u.washington.edu (Tina Abbott)
Subject: environmentally conscious sewing
Reply-To: tabbott@u.washington.edu
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 17:10:18 GMT

On the topic of "natural dyes", I assume this refers to dyeing with plant
materials.  The dyeing process using plants is as toxic if not more toxic
than using prepared dye powders.  If dyes are to be colorfast a mordant is
needed to set the color.  Most mordants are toxic, many are known
carcinogens in large quantities.  

Natural doesn't mean safe. 

I also got lost in Kay's article!  How does wearing, purchasing, using,
encouraging the continued production of 50-50 blends help the environment?


Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: nancyr@IFA.Hawaii.EDU ( Nancy Roth)
Subject: Re: Halloween Costume Suggestions
Reply-To: nancyr@IFA.Hawaii.EDU
Organization: Institute For Astronomy
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 20:36:27 GMT

In article 18926@u.washington.edu, lcornell@carson.u.washington.edu (Linda D. Cornell) writes:
>Hi there,
>I've been making costumes for years for various old and young family
>members....but I've finally run out of ideas for my uncle.  He will wear
>it around Halloween to work at the catholic church's Bingo parlor in New
>Jersey.
>
>So far he has been a ballerina, Hulk Hogan, a clown, and Christopher
>Columbus.  Any suggestions?  So far this year I've made 5 children's
>costumes and I have 4 others to finish and mail out.  He's worse than the
>kids about wanting a costume, but he never knows what he wants to be -
>that's a problem I rarely have with the kids! 
>
>Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
>
>Linda Cornell
>aka The Great Pumpkin


I've been invited to a birthday party for a little girl turning 2 at the end
of the month.  Her mother wants to turn it into a costume party and have 
everyone come as their favorite story book or nursury rhyme character.  I
have opted for Little Bo Peep because I don't have a Cinderella gown to wear.

There are lots of characters to choose from nursery rhymes that could be made
from normal clothing with an adornment or two along with odds and ends from
around the house for props.  I am borrowing a cane, adding an extra foot on 
its length and using that as my staff.  Now, only to find someone with a
stuffed lamb to carry.

Hope this helps. 

Nan
nroth@uhunix.uhcc.hawaii.edu
From: dbsander@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Diane B Sanderson)
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: sleeves
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:21:12 GMT
Organization: Syracuse University

In article <9209251648.AA19648@marny.Corp.Sun.COM> Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume) writes:
>>" But, what do I do with the armhole
>>seam? How can I finish it professionaly (without a serger)?
>
>Many shirt patterns will suggest sewing the sleeve to the garment
>BEFORE you sew the side seams. That way the sleeve seam is almost
>flat and it's a lot easier to finish the edge. If you can't flat-fell
>it, at least you can trim it to 1/4 inch and zigzag over the edge.
>Then sew the side seams last, from the hem to the cuff of the sleeve,
>in one quick seam, and finish as you wish.
>
>--marina


I would suggest that if you are sewing the side seam using this method 
that you make absolutely sure that the underarm seam matches exactly.  If
the garment may not match, then stitch from the underarm seam to the end of
the sleeve seam, then stitch from the underarm seam to the hem.  This way
your garment won't end up lopsided.

Hooray I can reply!

Diane:)

Diane B.M. Sanderson
SANDERSON@SUHEP.PHY.SYR.EDU
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: aviva@ultra.com (Aviva Garrett)
Subject: Re: My new blazer:  Lining question...
Reply-To: aviva@ultra.com (Aviva Garrett)
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 19:25:59 GMT

In article <5OCT199211571078@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> psburns@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MAUREEN BURNS) writes:
>Anyway, down to my lining question.  Early in the construction of the 
>lining, the instructions say to baste a 1.5" fold down the vertical length of 
>the back, taking stiches about 2 inches in the middle, top and bottom.  
>This "pleat" is then pressed to one side, and basted to the seam allowances 
>at the top and bottom.  (Is this clear?  Really, what it looks like is just 
>a center seam, pressed to one side.)  I figured it was just to provide some 
>extra room in the lining when the whole thing was done.  The thing is, 
>there never is any instructions about removing the basting stiches.  Is 
>this intentional?  Now, I'm not sure if I want to remove them because I 
>don't want ugly needle holes down the length of an other-wise gorgeous 
>jacket.  The lining isn't too tight.  It fits really well. 

Yes, these "x" stitches stay in. I've made several lined
jackets, from Vogue patterns, and they all have this pleat. I
don't really know why it's there, except to provide some ease.
I'm willing to bet if you look at a well-made commercial jacket,
you'll find the same stitches.


-- 
Aviva Garrett
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
aviva@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!aviva  (408) 922-0100 
Newsgroups: alt.sewing,rec.crafts.textiles
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Subject: Re: Enviromentally-conscious sewing
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 15:41:13 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.023057.29327@galileo.cc.rochester.edu> rrah@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Runa Rahman) writes:
>Thanks for the interesting and informative article, Kay!  :)
>
>In article <1992Sep28.174350.7146@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>>
>>Cotton is one of the most pesticide-intensive crops grown in the US.
>

I'm glad Kay posted this info.  I hadn't really thought about wearing
natural fibers as an ecological issue.  I wear them as a comfort issue.

One thing I wonder about with the recommendation about blends -- blends
tend to pill more.  I wonder if clothing made from blends actually gets
thrown out sooner than all-cotton clothes which may wear out sooner but
look better longer.  Who wants to wear totally pilled but still functional
clothes?  I also find that polyester clothes hold on tenaciously to
stains that would wash out of cotton easily (I'm just getting rid of a
polyester blouse that is in perfect shape except for the grease stains
[from food] down the front).

Wool was not mentioned at all in this discussion.  I believe wool production
is completely sustainable (if people don't try to have too many sheep at
one time).  Sheep are dipped in insecticide once or twice a year, and are
wormed, but I believe that that's the extent of poisons needed.... 

Figuring out how to be "green" isn't easy.  Is it better to buy a new
fridge NOW, while the new ones are very energy-efficient to run but have
CFCs, or to wait for the non-CFC ones which will use new and less-efficient
technology?  Etc.  I'm glad Kay raised the issue, even if it is one more
thing to feel guilty about.....
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
From: fred@cc.ysu.edu (Fred Ullom)
Subject: Re: one of a kind silk... I'm afraid
Organization: Youngstown State University
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 12:32:25 GMT

nadel@attatash.aero.org (Miriam Nadel) writes:
: In article <55340005@hpscit.sc.hp.com> selina@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Selina Fong) writes:
: >
: >Silk has been around for thousands of years and dry cleaning, maybe 
: >the last 60 years.  I personal believe dry cleaning silk is a conspiracy
: >put together by dry cleaning stores and clothing mfg :-).
: 
: Dry cleaning has also been around for thousands of years.  Haven't you
: ever heard of fuller's earth, used for dry cleaning in ancient Egypt?

No, Miriam, I haven't heard of fuller's earth and I suspect many on this
group haven't either. Would you care to educate us instead of chastise us? and
please quote your sources.
: 
: Some silk is handwashable and some is spun too thinly to wash by hand.

I don't think finely spun silk is any more delicate. I have cotton shirts woven
at 200 threads per inch that machine wash just fine. silk is certainly stronger
than cotton and even the finest silk is not much more than 200 threads per inch
cause that is about the limit of modern commercial looms. Only the Egyptians
were able to weave cloth which approached 500+ tpi and that was with handspun
linen. (I'll be happy to quote you the reference on that:-)
 
 
: 
: Dry cleaners aren't always out to get you.  Mine recommended I handwash
: a linen dress which is clearly labeled "dry clean only."
: 
: Miriam Nadel

Nay, dry cleaners are always out to get you - so are garment manufacturers.
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------        
Fred S. Ullom                                                                   
tacon019@ysub.ysu.edu                                                           
Youngstown State University                                                     
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing
Subject: Re: burn test (was Sewing room recommendations)
Date: 28 Sep 92 22:31:42 GMT
Organization: Yale University

In article <1992Sep27.011912.24474@techbook.com>
carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson) writes:
 
>Cotton, linen or rayon:  Burns quickly with a bright flame, glows
>after flame is removed, smells slightly sweet, leaves hard, black
>bead.
 
But natural fibers don't leave a hard bead, they leave ash.
 
Godd summary.  On the whole, I'd go with the smell: if it smells
like a plastic bag that wandered onto the stove, you can bet it's
synthetic.
 
Marie-Christine
mahe-marie-christine@yale.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sewing