HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dap3257@zeus.tamu.edu (DON PERLICK)
Subject: Re: sticky sliding door on Voyager
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 03:53:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep13.134903.13163@lonex.rl.af.mil>, koziarzw@lonex.rl.af.mil (Walter Koziarz) writes...
>In article <1992Sep10.161006.5696@terminator.cc.umich.edu> vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff) writes:
>>The sliding door on our Voyager has gotten VERY hard to slide in the last
>>several weeks.  I sprayed all the "wheels" with WD40, which seemed to make
>>a marginal improvement for about 2 days, and now it's harder to move than
>>ever.
> 
>one suggestion is to never again use 'WD-40'... that stuff is bad news for
>any mechanism it touches [ref:  find *any* reputable gunsmith and ask him/her

	I don't know about WD40 being as bad as you make it out to be,
but I don't figure it would be the right thing for the application...
I'd say try some white lithium grease.  For mechanisms that move that
much, WD40 isn't the best way to go.  It may be useful for freeing tough
bolts & nuts, but not the best long-term lubricant.  Lithium grease will
last better.

DOn

Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Date: Wed,  9 Sep 1992 12:57:29 -0400 
From: Jeremy Matthew Toeman <jt3h+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: QUESTIONS ON HONDA CRX (the Del Sol is here!)

The Del Sol is *NOT* the replacement for the CRX. If it doesn't do as well
as the CRX did, there WILL be a NEW (1994 model - coming in 1993) CRX with
a modified front end, and a new engine coming out. If the Del Sol DOES do
well, particularly the Del Sol Si's, then they will bring in the Del Sol
SiR which is the *TRUE* Del Sol. 175bhp@7800rpm, redline@8200rpm. Automatic
Targa top. Automatic rear windows (they roll down).

I have a '90 CRX Si. Anyone know who (other than A-T engineering) makes
turbo kits for em? HKS makes turbosystems for the old (84-87) CRXs, but
noone else seems to make them for the new body style.

I love that car.

---

Jeremy Toeman
412-268-4199     (anytime)



                 " Scobell --  We're not 'Schlag!! "

















The message ended a while ago, this is just my signature. Have a nice day!

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: edcrwfrd@unlv.edu (Edward Crawford)
Subject: GMs plans
Organization: UNLV
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 92 04:46:42 GMT

Can anyone tell me what GM is advertising on TV? Here's the
commercial:

(Terminator 2 sound track)

(all text, no voices:)

On September 9th,

GM Will turn Plastic

into Steel.

And another commercial: (not exactly sure of the wording)

On September 9th,

GM Will make all of your credit cards

last years model.

--

What it seems like is GM is coming out with a new credit card/
financing program but i havent heard anything about it.
From: mjt@voodoo.boeing.com (Jim Tallant)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: ABS brakes (was Re: Winter tires VS All-season)
Keywords: ABS brakes
Date: 15 Sep 92 17:09:35 GMT
Reply-To: mjt@voodoo.boeing.com
Organization: BoGart System Tools

In article <9209141818.AA11600@ucbvax.Berkeley.EDU>, lcheng@WATSON.IBM.COM writes:
|> Recently, <eliot@lanmola.engr.washington.edu> and others wrote about
|> the thrills of winter driving with an AWD Eagle Talon.
|> 
|> ABS does not guarantee shorter stops in the snow.  For loose snow or
|> mud, locked wheels build up a wedge in front of the tire that
|> slows the car down much more quickly.  ABS cycles the brakes on and off
|> so the distances are ridiculously long in comparison.

The same thing will happen in loose gravel.  The wedge will begin to build 
up in front of the wheel and then it just roll up and over the mound.
What there should be is an override switch for disabling the ABS in
conditions of loose snow or gravel.  How many cars sold in the US have such 
a switch?  I've seen it written that there are cars sold in Europe that 
do have an override switch for ABS but that this switch is not included 
on US import versions of these cars.  Is this because of some US law or 
is this a decision of the manufacturer?

I'm not doubting the value of ABS brakes for the average driver but a skilled
driver can (I'm told) actually have shorter stopping distances without
lockup without the aid of ABS.  Evidence the lack of ABS brakes on most
racing cars.  If they were really that good all race cars would have them.

|> - Lawrence Cheng

-- 
Jim Tallant 					      mjt@voodoo.ca.boeing.com
==============================================================================
I came, I saw, I had no idea what was going on, so I left.
< The above is my opinion alone, not that of my employer >
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rvn@icd.teradyne.com (Rafael Vidaillet)
Subject: Winter tires VS All-season
Reply-To: rvn@icd.teradyne.com
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 21:36:13 GMT

I have an Eagle Talon AWD with Dunlops Sp 8000's on it.  These tires are
no good for winter (At least that's what everyone says), so I had planned 
to change-over to the original Goodyears GT +4's for winter.  

	But now I have another option, I could sell these tires and get real 
Winter tires for winter.  I have been told that good performace Winter tires 
(Pirelli 210's) will not only be better in the snow, but will grab much 
better than any other tire during the winter time temperatures.  Can I 
expect winter tires to grab better than the GT+4's in the city, were there 
is no snow, but it is still pretty cold?

	I live in Boston, and tend to go skiing in Maine very often,
so I'm kind of leaning towards the winter tires, but I just want to know 
what I'm getting into... Will I win in all counts in going to a winter 
tire, or will I 'loose' something?  What about in the 'in-between' 
winter and summer time, which tire should I use?
	
Remember, I already have GREAT summer tires, so these tires will only be 
used in winter... (And I know that AWD will help, but I kind of drive hard
all the time, and I don't think I'll slow down much in winter, so I can use
all the grip I can get.)
	
	If you have any experience with the type of tire I'm thinking
of getting I would be very interested in hearing about it!

	Thanks ahead for any replies....

_RV

---
 ______________________________________________________________________
/                                                                      \
| Rafael Vidaillet--MS: H71|   Internet:  rvn@dewey.icd.teradyne.com   |
| Teradyne Inc.            |                              _            |
| 321 Harrison Ave.        |   Voice:   (617) 422-2422   |_) \  /      |
| Boston, Ma. 02118        |   Fax:     (617) 422-2837   | \  \/       |
\______________________________________________________________________/



Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Subject: Re: Replacement tires for Inifini Q45
Keywords: infiniti, tire, quiet, wet
Reply-To: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 13:18:40 GMT

I had D40's on my porsche turbo as original equipment.  I found them loud and that they didn't stick as well as I would have liked.  

In a Q45 I imagine you are definitely going to want something quiet. That pretty much rules out the Dunlops.  Why don't you take a look at what is on the new SL mercedes?  

Oh, one more thing.  I live live in a rather snowy climate and have never found any all season tire that comes half-way close to providing the traction I get out of my winter radials.  I forget the name of the company.  Although I am pretty sure they are from Norway.

my 2c cdn (canadian)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: trussell@cwis.unomaha.edu (Tim Russell)
Subject: Re: Buying an old Police car
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 21:04:35 GMT

livneh@oliver.rutgers.edu (Shai Livneh) writes:

>I'm looking into buying an old police car (preferably
>an 87-90 Chevy Caprice with a 350 and the standard
>police package additions.  Does any one out there have
>one or had one at one point?  Are there any problems
>I should be looking for after I buy it?  Where should 

    Be /VERY/ careful.  I've read articles and heard of people getting
burnt bigtime buying ex-cop cars, because the police very often
don't worry about emission standards and other laws when modifying
their cars, but YOU are expected to bring the vehicle to street legal
specifications within X days after purchasing it.

    This was a few years ago, but I don't know if it's still going
on.  Knowing police and their notions that they enforce the laws but
don't have to abide by them, I suspect it is.  Read the fine print
and look the car over well.

--
    Tim Russell                 Omaha, NE              trussell@unomaha.edu
One of the richest men in the world made his billions selling a toy "operating
system" that is more accurately described as a glorified bootstrap loader.
                                                  -- Phil Karn
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rick@posms.cactus.org (Rick Kirchhof)
Subject: Re: I HATE SHABBY MECHANICS (was: I HATE MY DODGE)
Organization: Department of Redundancy Dept., Austin
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 01:40:29 GMT

>barry@geovision.gvc.com (Barry Comer) writes:
>
>
>>>  The real problem is that all mechanics care about is your $$$$, and not
>>>  your happiness.  After all, if they don't do it right the first time,
>>>  you'll be back later to have it fixed again, and they get paid again!!
>>>  It really pisses me off that if you don't know what you want, you'll get
>>>  whatever they feel like giving you!!!  There is precious little
>>>  professionalism in the auto industry, so when you find a good mechanic or
>>>  a good dealership, it's important to tell the whole neighborhood, so they
>>>  get all the business, and the shabby shops get as little as possible!!
>

>             [Two thoughtful replys deleted]

[one moment, ascending to soapbox]

I can see what you mean.  I wonder what you would say to a well meaning
shop owner when he asked if you wanted your timing belt replaced at
70,000 miles on your late model hi compression engine (you DO read this
group don't you).

I wonder what YOU would say when your neglected timing belt (or any other
part) caused a major breakdown 100 miles down the the highway after you 
declined the repair and shamed the shop owner for asking.

Probably would sound something like "I just paid over $200.00 to that
@&% &*#! thief and the car is busted again.  YOU are part of the problem.
When you don't do required maintenance, don't blame American (or other) car 
makers for shoddy products.  When you do business with someone, get to
know him/her, trust him/her and provide feedback on what you do/don't
like about the service.

As others posting here have noted, This isn't your fathers Oldsmobile.
According to the Secretary of Transportation, the amount of information
needed to repair ALL models of cars manufactured in 1965 was 5000 pages.
To have similar information on todays cars requires over 1/2 million
pages of data.  New people entering the auto repair profession need to be
highly motivated, skilled as an electronics technician, and willing to
learn at the rate of 5+ study hours per week JUST TO KEEP UP.  This
assumes that they already know it all.  The same report mentions the level
of professional prestiege that skilled automotive technicans enjoy. 
 
Until you learn what is needed to do the job you criticize, listen to
customer complaints such as yours, pay for your own tools and training,
and then provide for all the employee benefits with your own post-tax
earnings because you are "contract labor" you know not whereof you
speak.

[decending from soapbox]




-- 
Rick Kirchhof   Austin, Texas                   | Experience is what you
Domain: rick@posms.cactus.org                   | get when you don't
Bang path: ...!cs.utexas.edu!peyote!posms!rick  | get what you want.            
===========================================================================
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Subject: Re: Door Horror
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:27:52 GMT


In article <ILH.92Sep9095500@winnie-the-pooh.lcs.mit.edu> ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:
>
>That reminds me.  The parking lot at my old high school had their
>lines repainted from perpendicular to angled.  The idiot painting them
>did not realize that by angling the lines the spaces got narrower.
>They were ridiculously narrow.  There's one person who did not get
>much out of math/geometry class!

I guess I didn't get much out of my math classes either. I always
thought that if you take a rectangle of width W and rotate it by X
degrees about one of the vertices the rectangle still had a width of W.

Try it yourself: take a rectangular piece of paper. Orient it at right
angles to the edge of your desk, forming a perpendicular "parking space"
(for a Matchbox car ;-). Stick a pin through one of the corners, and
rotate the paper by 45 degrees about that pin to form an angled
"parking space." Has the width of the paper changed?

If the new spaces were ridiculously narrow, then it was entirely the
painter's fault and had nothing whatsoever to do with the fact that the
spaces were rotated.

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: schottd@ucs.orst.edu (Derek Schott)
Subject: stereo outputs
Summary: Toyota stereos; RCA outputs 
Organization: University Computing Services - OSU
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 05:19:59 GMT

Does anyone know if the model 16404 stereos, commonly found in the
91 and 92 Toyota SR-5 pickups, have RCA outputs or not? None of the
dealers around here seem to know, and the idea of ripping the dash
appart to find out, kind of turns my stomache. Thxs...


-- 
=============================================================================
* Derek Schott                                Mail:schottd@ucs.orst.edu     *
* Department of Public Safety/OSP             Corvallis OR OSU              *
=============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: Re: Trouble engaging into 1st gear
Organization: Motorola SPS
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 23:35:46 GMT

In article <183417@pyramid.pyramid.com>, rshankar@slipknot.eng.pyramid.com (Ravi Shankar) writes:
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> I have trouble  engaging into 1st gear from Neutral  anytime i start
> the vehicle from a full stop  while i  am  able to comfortably
> change it into 1st gear if i change  it just before the car comes to a
> full stop, what  started as a occasional trouble now   happens at
> almost every time stop at a red light.. Once i get it onto 1st gear
> from then on the vehicle changes to any gear very smoothly...
> 
> Anybody seen this before?
> 
> /Ravi.
>


Sounds like the clutch may not be disengaging completely, you might want to
check the linkage or cable.  The synchronizers probably take care of speed 
differences better in the other gears.  If it is the clutch, it probably 
doesn't go into reverse easily either.

Jim

 
>
From: johns@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Stephen Johns)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: RainX and RX-7 questions
Date: 10 Sep 92 21:26:09 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute, San Antonio

In article <tewheele.716150141@vincent2.iastate.edu> tewheele@iastate.edu (Todd E Wheeler) writes:
>In <1992Sep8.175506.18314@eskimo.celestial.com> johnn@eskimo.celestial.com (John Navitsky) writes:
>
>>The problem is that I can't get the stuff off.  Normal window cleaners do not
>>seem to do it.  What happens is that after a while a film or fog develops on
>>the windows.  You wipe it off but it re-appears.  This is really a problem in
>>bright sunlight since it really reduces visability and with the stuff on there
>>it is hard to clean it without streaks.  Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

I had a similar problem but the offending substance I believe is evaporated
Clear Guard from the dash board.  Normal window cleaners didn't work, they just
pushed the greasy stuff around.  Finally, I just used car wash on one of those
squeegee (sp) things, it worked well.  I think it worked for two reasons:
  1) Lots of water to wash away and break down the junk.
  2) The rubber part of the squeegee drags all the junk over to the edge where
     you soak it up with paper towels.  Using just a paper towel moves the junk
     around in the same general area.
-- 
Stephen Johns, Research Analyst
Southwest Research Institute, SA, TX 78228 (512) 522-5751
From: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Subject: RE: Anybody into 64-73 musclecars 
Reply-To: seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 92 12:05:09 GMT


answer: No

------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: front disc brake question
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:33:30 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos, rdb1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (ronald.j.deblock..jr) writes:

>I've never had brake pads last LESS than 65K miles.  That's all highway
>mileage, of course.

Highway driving is different, and it shows.... :)

>Question: The outside pads are about twice as thick as the inside ones.  When
>new, they were the same.  Why do the inside pads wear faster?

At 80k highway miles, this could have several answers, and this regiem
is one I'm not familiar with. But I can postulate what i think is happenning.

You have a lot of mileage on the car, and I imagine do a lot of slow
braking, such as gentle exit ramp braking. Calipers are built generally
with the piston on the inside of the caliper, so this will be the first
part to move when the brake pedal is depressed. I would venture to guess
that in your gentle braking (an assumption:) you don't press the pedal
hard enough to full engage the outside pad all the time, and thus you
wear the inside pad more than the outside pad. (The outside pad is pressed
to the outer portion of the rotor by pressure exerted by the inner pad.)

A couple of things you should note about this, 1) your rotor is likely
to also be experiencing uneven wear. This should be minimal, as your
pads are only the first set, and haven't even worn down completely yet.
2) If you have vented rotors, you may want to think about turning them
if there are heavy grooves in them when you do you first brake job.
As for worrying about pad wear, If you brake a little harder, provided
your caliper hasn't been partially frozen due to non-use, your next
set of pads should wear a little more evenly. Mine are almost the same,
at least from a cursory examination. I didn't measure them, as they
really needed to be changed, but I do remember that at least one inside
pad had more wear than its counterpart.

Ron

Potassium Benzoate included as a preserver.
From: jrd@po.CWRU.Edu (John R. Daker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: GMs plan: New Credit Card (MC, then possibly VISA)
Date: 11 Sep 1992 19:33:22 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: jrd@po.CWRU.Edu (John R. Daker)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc5.ins.cwru.edu


In a previous article, ycheah@hamp.hampshire.edu () says:

>In article <13277@texsun.Central.Sun.COM>, dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) writes:
>> 
>> Is there a ceiling on the amount you can accrue toward a car purchase?
>> 
>> If I charge, say, $100,000 a year, would they really give me $5000 off?
>> 
>> 	Dave
>
>They prbably give you a low credit limit (say, $2000). That way, even if you
>charge to the max every month, and pay it all off, you can only charge a total
>of $24 000 a year. 
>
>
>
>


Now, if I could just get one with a $1.3mil limit and buy a house with it,
I should be able to get a ZR-1.  What a deal!

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------>DarkMan-------->
Case Western Reserve University,  Cleveland, Ohio            DoD #650
Anyone know where a mechanical engineer can get a job?
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: agwiii@fang.att.com (Grayson Walker (660-7949)(12/92))
Subject: Re: Want real info on 'Stalker' radar.
Organization: Center For Creative Study Of Metaphilosometrics
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:28:52 GMT

>>    Okay, from those of you who really know.  What is 'stalker' radar?
>"Stalker" radar is basically a radar gun that is field-tunable to anywhere

See the latest Car & Driver for write up on Stalker radar gun and how to
beat it.

Happy Valentine's Day.
-- 
Grayson Walker                                           CHC, Maitland, Florida 
Forza!                                            Internet: agwiii@fang.att.com
Voice: 407 660 7949                        Big brown river..... Tuli Kupferberg
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: tmkk@uiuc.edu (Khan)
Subject: Re: Bugs (and Bras)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:28:05 GMT


In article <1992Sep9.093800.1@bronco.fnal.gov> colombo@bronco.fnal.gov writes:
>> 
>> Bees *are* attracted to color, as several nature shows that I have
>> watched demonstated.  "Arrest-me red" (or "Write-me-a-ticket- red", as
>> I call it) evidently brings 'em runnin'.  And not just bees . . .
>
>	Since the bees seem to only be attracted to the front,
>	I propose that they are attracted to chrome, not color.  :-)

Nope! My car is an Arrest-Me Red bee magnet, but had no chrome anywhere
on it (and I like it like that).

Perhaps I should start calling the paint color "Pollinate-Me Red"? ;-)
From: dibb@dg.UUCP (James Dibb)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: front disc brake question
Date: 4 Sep 92 13:24:08 GMT
Reply-To: dibb@jac.webo.dg.com
Organization: Data General, Westboro MA

In article <1992Sep1.164340.17345@julian.uwo.ca>,
wlsmith@valve.heart.rri.uwo.ca (Wayne Smith) writes:
|> In article <1992Sep1.161303.18578@utdallas.edu>
|> $USER@utdallas.edu writes:
|> >Actually, the service shop that recommended turning the
|> rotors probably 
|> >isn't too far off. It is a good idea ANY time you change
|> brake pads to 
|> >either turn or REPLACE the rotors. For example, Honda
|> and BMW have rotors 
|> >which are really too thin to turn. If you take too much
|> metal off, the 
|> >rotors become dangerously thin. BMW also BALANCES their
|> rotors. You can 
|> 
[Wayne Smith replies here]
|> Which confirms my general opinion that disk brakes are
|> for the birds
					  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

|> (they are more troublesome than drums, given the small
|> (or no) performance
|> increase).  They are cheaper to put on at the factory,
|> and have a lower
|> parts count, the aftermarket for replacement rotors must
|> be a good profit
|> source (otherwise why not put more metal in the rotors? 
|> The thicker they are,
|> the less likely they are to warping due to stress and
|> heat,  but no, they'd
|> rather have you come into the dealership and give them
|> work to do...)

If disks are for the birds, then why would any manufacturers
of high performance 
at any cost cars ever use them?  Or race cars, or any sports
car for that manner?
Disks are easier to service and are far better as far as
heat dissipation and fade 
resistance.  The more metal used, the heavier, and thus less
desirable they are for
performance cars.  Also using drums on the front wheels of
cars would probably put
enough wear on them that they would have to be
turned/replaced as often as disks
at higher expense ( more parts, more complex).  So did you
forget the smilies or what?

-- 
Jim Dibb               | My  car doesn't care if your |
dibb@jac.webo.dg.com   | car climbed MT. WASHINGTON   |
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: maura@mitre.org
Subject: CAR FOR SALE (Lowell, MA)
Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA 01730
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 16:36:52 GMT

FOR SALE:
 
1980 Plymouth Volare - blue, 4-door, automatic transmission, power steering,
82,166 miles (mainly highway), AM/FM cassette radio, slant 6 engine.  Car is in
good condition, but needs a tune-up.  Great car for student/teenager.  Located
in Lowell, Massachusetts.  $500 or best offer.  If interested, please email me
at maura@mitre.org
 
 
Maura Shugrue
Xref: sparky rec.autos:21508 rec.autos.tech:12274 misc.consumers:16214 sci.environment:11122 talk.environment:3590