Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
Subject: 2/2 Repaint Graphite Sha
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 1992 00:00:12 -0600

>>>CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MESSAGE

7)Spray  on  the  first  coat  of polyurethane and let dry 12 hours.
Then,using 000 grade steel  wool,  rub  the  entire  length  of  the
graphite  shaft.   Be  careful  not  too  rub  through  to the color
lacquer.  Wipe off residue with damp cloth.


8)Apply  any  "water slide-off type" decals to the shaft as desired.
These  can  be  purchased--Golfsmith  and  Golfworks  have  a   nice
selection  for  clubheads that could  be  used  on  a  shaft,  also.
Activate  the  decal  by  laying  it  on a piece of wet paper towel.
Immersing it in water removes too much glue(according to one book  I
read).


I found that putting a white line decal just below the grip area  on
the black section of the shaft could help alignment. Like this:

                 |   decal    |
                 | ---------- |
                 | ---------- |
                 | ---------- | <--shaft
                 | ---------- |

Aligning the shaft/decal to where the head should be at address will
allow  a  person   to   instantly  see  if  the  clubface  has  been
addressed  open/close  etc.  (yes,yes you could look at the clubface
too--it's just another reminder). A decal dot could also do the same
thing. Hmmmmm.  Maybe  that little Golden Bear decal that Golfworks
sells could do it too...  :)

Allow decal to dry for least 1 hour.

9)Wipe the shaft with tack rag again.  Now, spray the second coat of
polyurethane on the shaft.  Do not use the shaft for least 1 week to
allow all materials to cure!


RESULTS:


I  did  try a "scratch" test on the shaft I did here and it compared
favorably to a commercial shaft with a  similar  clear  polyurethane
finish.  However, at a driving range outing, I did notice that small
cracks in the paint did develop on the shaft just above the hosel of
the  club  I put the shaft on.  Obviously, from the normal stress in
this area when a golf ball is struck....  a easy solution to this is
to use a ferrule on all clubs you re-shaft with repainted graphite.

Also, perhaps the paint cracking occurred because  I  didn't  use  a
polyurethane tough enough for the job.  Next time, I'll try some the
of  Golfworks  or  Golfsmith   polyurethanes   for   golf   clubhead
refinishing...and  perhaps a 3rd and 4th coat of polyurethane.See my
other post on clubhead refinishing.

Cosmetically overall, the re-painted shaft LOOKED commercial.

NOTES:

>>A word again about the sprays used here.  The Primer/Sealer  fumes
are  the  worst.   Be  sure  to use a paint respirator (available in
hardware stores or Golfsmith) when spraying and/or  be  prepared  to
ventilate  your  spraying  areas  with  large  amounts of fresh air.
Also,  use  a dust mask when sanding and safety goggles to cover the
eyes.

Use  rubber  gloves  for all sanding and spraying operations!  Those
yellow latex gloves you can get in grocery stores  work  just  fine.
Keeps any chemicals from absorbing into the skin and no hand washing
needed after you are done!

>>Materials used:

  Duct tape          Primer/Sealer Spray (Golfsmith #920)
  Masking tape       Polyurethane Spray
  Tack rag           Acrylic Lacquer Spray(Dupli-Color light red)
  Alcohol            Acrylic Lacquer Spray(Dupli-Color gloss black)


>>USER BEWARE!  I OFFER THESE HINTS AS IS.  I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR
ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE USING THEM.

                                   o o o o
                                  o        o
From Minnesota--highest per capita of golf nuts in the Nation!
David.Moore@tdkt.kksys.com      o            o
                              o               o      |18>
____________________________o_________________ o o o |_________
___
 X SLMR 2.0 X It's only a hobby ... only a hobby ... only a

 * Origin: Dark Knight's Table (1:282/31)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf