From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: Mustang installation
Reply-To: ehawrysh@bnr.ca
Organization: Bell Northern Research Ltd
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 18:15:48 GMT

In article sezpKQO00WBKA7i3p5@andrew.cmu.edu, bf0w+@andrew.cmu.edu (Brett Earl Forejt) writes:
> hi, just wondering if anyone has had experience in installing systems in
> late model mustangs if so, i would like your input upon my situation
> 
> i am currently designing a seven channel amp for my system.  the amp
> will have 2 sub channels at 150 watts, 2 rear mid-upper range at either
> 100, or 75 watts, 2 door channels (mid-ranges) at 75 watts, and three in
> dash channels, at 50 watts, the third being for a surround effect, i
> haven't decided to make it real surround or fake yet.
> 
> the problems that i am having are, where to put the amp, or possible
> just build the amp as several amps and place it in various places
> throughout the car, and i don't want any big boxes to take up my trunk
> space (by the way i have a hatchback), because as those who own mustangs
> know the usable space is limited without putting down the back seats.

You could try mounting the amps under the seats. I had to remove the seat
adjust helper springs and raise the adjust rod underneath to get clearance,
but these are no biggie.  I've got a 4ch amp under the driver's and an XM-3
xover and 2ch Cupid under the passenger's seat. How do you plan to filter your
drivers? Depending on the depth of your head unit, you could stuff some passive
xovers behind it, or in the doors. 

> 
> i am going to install the subs in the factory 5x7 holes behind the wheel
                                                          ^^^^^^
                                                          in front?

> wells, and the drivers are going to be either 6" or 8" push pull pairs
> (4 speakers in all, an you run them mounted face to face wired pos-neg,
> and neg-pos that way you can handel twice the power, and have lots o
> base from small drivers) 

Unless you are planning on pounding the hell out of your inner wheel wells, I
don't know how you are going to fit a pair of drivers in these openings. I
shoehorned a 6x9 into these spots, and boy are they a tight fit. If you've
done this before or have seen it, let me know. I'd have to see it to believe that!
(I built a sealed isobaric sub using a couple of 8" drivers, and required over 0.7
cu. ft., built it in a tube, and strapped it against the far back of the hatch.
If I need the room, I can just unstrap it and pull it right out or roll it out of
the way). Are you planning on building enclosures for the drivers? An option would
be to build your enclosures in the little empty spaces behind the wheel wells and
port them through the shock towers and out the 5x7 openings. THAT would be a job
and a half. My suggestion would be to buy a component set and build your own
plate speaker (this is what I would do if I was to do mine over again), or some
sort of mid/tweeter combination and fit them in the openings.

> the rear channels will be either home mounted
> or professionally done to be solid and flush.

Are these going against the far back (by the tailights?) That would be a good
idea, but clearance with the tailights would limit your depth. I think the 
problem with most places is to try to secure the drivers so that the panels don't
have to take all its weight.

> the doors will be easy, i
> have done the same before with my fathers mustang, the dash will also be
> easy, just using the stock mounting holes and sizes.

Why limit yourself to trying to find a 3" tweeter for the dash? I'd suggest going
with a smaller one and fashion a simple mounting bracket. I used those metal
straps that normally come with head units. You can work so easily with these to
get just the right bend and twist to get the direction you're looking for.

As for the center channel, the center vents make a good place for mounting. If
you want to mount the driver horizontal, you can still retain the venting (I 
don't really know if forcing hot or cold air over the driver is that wise an idea
though). Otherwise, just block it off. It's done all the time with aftermarket 
gauge packages, and you've still got the side vents.

> 
> the whole idea of this system is to be as close to professional sound,
> and i don't mean professional loud, as possible, also i would like to
> make the entire system as steath as possible.
> 

If you're looking for other spots to mount amps, xovers, and other items that
don't need to be accessed, try behind the body mouldings that run from behind
the door to the back. There's lots o' room in behind there (Makes for a good
alarm location too).


> thanks guys, any sugesstions or comments are welcome
> 
> Brett

I hope this helps,

Evan (PS sorry, but I don't have external email access, otherwise I'd try to
      save some net bandwidth).