HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Battery Technology for EVs
Date: 31 Aug 92 10:49:57 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <c+hnrma@dixie.com> jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:
>Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>
>
>>The same thing occurred to me. I've been trying to get some EDTA for some time
>>now. 
>
>Assuming EDTA is Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid, it's as easy as a
>call to a couple of sources.  Fisher Scientific has Reagent grade EDTA
>for $22 per 500g.  Minimum order is $100 and they're pricks to deal with
>unless you're Fortune 500, Big Governemnt or Big Education.  The second
>source is Strem Chemicals.  This is a delightful little company to deal
>wtih and they have EVERYTHING.  Their price is $39 per 500g or $10.50
>per 100g.  (These guys have BuckyBalls and a variety of high temperature
>superconductor materials.)  Tel 508 462 3191.  
>
>Before ordering, you should know that there are alkali metal compounds
>of EDTA.  You really need to know whether the magic battery goop is 
>pure EDT acid or one of these compounds.  The compounds are lots cheaper
>so there is financial incentive too.
>
>If you're really serious and figure out which compound you need and cannot
>order any other way, contact me.  I have accounts with both companies.
>
>John
>
>-- 
>John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
>Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
>Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
>jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
>Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.

EDTA won't fix dead or shorted cells, but it can sometimes help badly
sulfated cells.  Home Power magazine reports no ill effects anyhow.
They reccommend using about 1 tablespoon per 1 qt of electrolyte.
First dissolve it in a small amount of distilled H2O, then add that to the
battery.  It doen't dissolve in acid very well.

You can credit card order EDTA from Trailhead supply, 801-225-3931.
It is 10/lb, postpaid.  It is a white powder, also called tetrasodium salt.
I haven't used any, but got some and gave it to a friend with an electric
tractor (7-year old battery).. It greatly improved the weak cells for him
--ghg
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley)
Subject: Re: How Fast is a Top Fueler???
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 13:34:16 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.213336.17116@pica.army.mil> tcora@PICA.ARMY.MIL (Tom Coradeschi <tcora>) writes:
>>>>
>>>>I saw the NHRA Northwest nationals in Seattle, and did some timing.
>>>>They did 1/4 mile in 4.9 sec, meaning an avg of 3.41 g.
>>>>They got up to 295 mph in 4.9 sec, acceleration of 2.74g average.
>
>>Gosh, I'm SOOOOOOOOOO tempted to write a nasty post about keeping this kind of
>>crap out of rec.autos.tech, and putting it in rec.autos.sport where it belongs,
>Good thing. Since this is what r.a.tech is for.
>
>                tom coradeschi    <+>    tcora@pica.army.mil

I get goose pimples every time I even get near one of these machines!
The power and speed of these beauties is just about the most incredible
thing I have ever witnessed.

I haven't visited r.a.sports in a while but when I did I seldom saw any
drag racing posts.  I think it's about time to get r.a.hotrod put to a
discussion again.  A mailing list was created after the last failed attempt
and this list has done very well.  Only problem for me is that I keep getting
dumped from the mailer and it won't let me back on.   WAAAAAAA!!!  I want my
REC.AUTOS.HOTROD!  

      ******************************************************************
      *   Dwight Brantley    *   Failure Analysis & Reliability Dept.  *
      *  Intergraph, Corp.   *  Reply To: brantley@falab1.b21.ingr.com *
      *   Huntsville, AL     *           Voice: 205-730-4456           *
      ******************************************************************
From: tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Three GM cars with similar windshield wiper problems
Date: 3 Sep 92 02:46:21 GMT
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio

They're a Pontiac Sunbird, GMC van, and a Buick (model - don't know).
These are all several years old, and all have similar problems with
the wipers going on at random times.  One the Sunbird, when you put
on a turn signal, the wipers click on.  One the Buick, it when a bump
is hit, and they turn on for just one cycle.  The GMC's wipers just
go on at completely random times, and stay on for different lengths
of time, each time.

These are owned by two separate people.  I heard about the first one
and laughed.  Then a guy I work with mentioned the two he owns and I
thought that this might be fairly common.  It's obviously a short some-
where, and I'm not doing the the work, so nothing has been ruled out.
I was just wondering if anyone else had come across this in the past
and had an idea for a solution.  Also, I'm curious just how many people
who have/had GM's also had this problem.  Thanks in advance.

						-Tom
-- 
Okay, one more time.  This is your brain. (egg)
This is your brain on drugs. (egg in frying pan)
Any Questions?
"Yeah, can I have mine scrambled?"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Removal
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 10:28:37 GMT

In <1992Aug27.131102.29223@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> tzing@nyx.cs.du.edu (Tom Zing) writes:


>I have a broken exhaust manifold stud frozen in my aluminium head.  The
>stud piece is about an inch long.  I have tryed liquid wrench and some 
>vibration to try and loosen it.  Does any one know how to remove it ?

Fry it with a flame, and get a good pair of vise-grips (?), the kind
of pliers where you don't have to squeeze to hold on to something.

Dunno wat liquid wrench is, but you did use the thin flowing oil
in a can that will eat rust? WD40 is a brand that is popular in Europe.
From: johnc@yuma.acns.colostate.edu (John Cooley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CLUB Story
Summary: Real Thieves (TM) just cut the steering wheel
Date: 1 Sep 92 15:10:47 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO  80523

In article <1992Sep1.025939.26928@uniwa.uwa.edu.au> scott@psy.uwa.oz.au 
(Scott Fisher) writes:
>asr_2@dac.mdcbbs.com writes:

>>Wife's CLUB just messed up royally.  We go to unlock it and there it is
>>stuck and the key won't turn(it has one of those circular keys not a regular

(most of bad experience with CLUB deleted)

>>an hour so the thing was good, the bad news was that it was a piece of
>>crap lock.  

>That's interesting..a consumer magazine here in Australia called
>CHOICE (US has one too I beleive?) did an article on these steering
>wheel locks and had a trial where a randomly chosen guy (unskilled in
>car theft) was given a screwdriver and told to ... see if you can remove 
>this lock.

>The average locks were removed from anywhere between 15 seconds to 3 minutes.
>all brands and styles failed the test at the hands of the amature.
>The CLUB lock was apparently in the 15 second category.

Despite advertisements to the contrary, "police departments"  (whatever that
might mean) do NOT endorse the CLUB or similar devices.  Regardless of the
quality of the lock, professional thieves don't even bother with it.  They
simply cut the plastic rim of the steering wheel and remove the device.

If your CLUB-equipped car hasn't been stolen, it's simply because nobody
wanted it badly enough yet.  By the time they go to the trouble of breaking
in, the CLUB is no deterrent.

   John Cooley
   Drive a piece of junk with a 300 hp engine.  No one will ever try to
   break in or even bother looking at it!
From: monsef@hal.com (Eric Monsef)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Mildew odors from ventilation system.
Keywords: Mildew odor mold smell ventilation A/C
Date: 28 Aug 92 05:27:50 GMT
Organization: HaL Computer Systems
NNTP-Posting-Host: warped.hal.com

In article <1992Aug28.051403.25899@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, sborders@nyx.cs.du.edu (Scott Borders) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> One of the rec.autos readers sent me private mail indicating that
|> he had heard of a product that is sprayed into the ventilation
|> system that will destroy mold and mildew; 

I can't imagine that Lysol wouldn't work-if you can stand the smell.

Also, I don't know a thing about Lasers, but spraying something in there
would only be a band-aid effect.  The problem is either that there is a spot
where the fluid that's supposed to drain is accumulating and molding, or 
there is a leak in the drainage system.  Either way the system should be 
opened up and looked at carefully.  You shouldn't have to worry about something
like this in a brand new car.

Also, there may be some sort of air-filter in there that's causing this
problem as well, but opening it up will take out the guess-work.

Good Luck


Eric Monsef 
Product Design Group     We have a disclaimer, but it would take too long to read.
HaL Computer Systems
monsef@hal.com
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1992 23:38:07 -0500

 PS> On at least that vintage car, one removed the chrome trim that covered 
 PS> the
 PS> gasket surrounding the windshield.  The shop procedure is (usually) to
 PS> cut out the gasket (yes, there's a special tool to make it easier) and 
 PS> then
 PS> lift out the windshield.

There's another method that _may_ work, depending on the type of seal:

1) Remove all the interior and exterior trim that is readily removable
(sometimes you have to leave the exterior trim in place when removing the
windshield glass).

2) Get a piece of clothesline rope at least as long as the perimeter of the
windshield seal.

3) Pry up the seal around the interior outside perimeter and stuff in the
clothesline rope, keeping it taut.

4) Starting at one corner, press out the windshield from the inside.

5) If it breaks, console yourself that you are probably better off with a nice
new windshield anyway, and they are not all that expensive for ordinary cars.
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevy Cavalier Windshield Wiper Switch went bad!
Date: 2 Sep 92 12:29:40 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <5352@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> cjb+@pitt.edu (Christophe J Bogdon) writes:
>I have a 1988 Chevy Cavalier with ~60,000 Miles on it.  A couple weeks
>ago I seen smoke come out of my steering column near the turn
>signal(windshield wiper) switch.  Now my windshield wipers only work on
>the high position.  The dealer want $150 to replace.  Is this easy to
>do?  Has anyone ever tried it before?  I might buy a repair manual and
>try it myself.  Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance!

Last year I wrote a long article about doing this.  If you can find
it, read it.  You MUST HAVE the steering wheel puller and the steering
wheel spring compressor.  

Without tilt or telescopic, this not a bad job with the pullers, a
7/32 nut driver and a #1 straight screwdriver.  Figure 45 minutes if 
you are adept.  Oh, you also need a torx socket set and a regular
socket set.

I had to look in hundreds of cars(!) to find a junker replacement high
beam/low beam/cruise control/blinker/delay wipe/wiper speed switch for
my Cutlass.
-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: McLaren F1
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Aug 92 15:46:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> To be honest, my first impression of the car, was: 'Nice, but a road
-> car from McLaren? No way!'.

 How quickly they forget.... McLaren M6B-GT.  Of course, only two were
built...
                                                   
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Recommendations re: 82/83/84 Mercedes....
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1992 09:33:10 -0500

 JG> For that much money you can get your self a nice digitally fuel 
 JG> injected
 JG> BMW 528e '82 or later. This car burns clean and gets good gas mileage.
 JG> Diesel mbz's are very expensive to repair. At 100k miles the car has
 JG> a good chance of being in need of a rebuild, unless it was taken care 
 JG> of
 JG> in which case 100k miles has not really broken the engine in yet.

I've heard that there has been a lot of trouble with the "eta" engine used in
the 528e. True or not?
From: bressler@iftccu.boeing.com (Rick Bressler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Date: 25 Aug 92 20:56:32 GMT
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane Group

/ iftccu:rec.autos.tech / vbreault@rinhp750.gmr.com (Val Breault) /  8:20 am  Aug 25, 1992 /

>(Yes, that's intentionally a little provocative.... nothing personal,
>I just wanted to spur some discussion on the expected vs actual 
>mileage among the net readers.)

Well, I've got 4 cars, a couple of which are more or less 'show' cars.
They quite often will sit for several weeks at a time, and only my 
every day driver gets any real miles.  Now, if you want to believe 
the Slick 50 adds, :-) after a period of time most of the oil film 
is off of the moving parts.  (Actually, I think this is around two 
weeks, and is the only part of the Slick-50 advertising that I 
personally believe.)  In this case a pre-oiler makes good sense.  I have
many 1000's of dollars in those motors...

Rick
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth)
Subject: Guages and instrumentation
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 16:42:02 GMT



Where do the sending units for aftermarket oil temperature
guages get installed?  In the pan, in an oil passageway?

Dave Kroth
kroth@acadia.kodak.com
From: netops@tekgen.bv.tek.com (Randy King)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: idle, smoke on Ranger
Keywords: Ranger
Date: 31 Aug 92 19:56:48 GMT
Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, Or.

I have a 1983 Ford Ranger, 2.0 liter, Carter Carb.  The idle is too high even after adjusting it, and when it goes to a normal idle, it starts smoking. Does anybody out there have any suggestions?

Also, (don't laugh on this one) I have this idle/dwell/voltage meter but I don'thave the manual. I am not a mechanic so I don't know where to connect the cable
s to. It looks like a battery jumper cable, so I assume I just connect it to the+- battery post, right?. I am starting this fix my own truck hobby, you know.

Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 20:49:36 GMT

In article <1992Sep2.092607.282@lrc.edu> little_re@lrc.edu writes:
>> one fitted.  If you really don't want your car (stolen by driving
>> away), make sure it's locked, has a club on the wheel, a high
>> quality alarm that disables the car, is is not parked in a bad place and you 
>> have the lead from the coil in your back pocket, and is filthy dirty with
>> mud and other crud all over it :-).
>
>
>    Allright, so what is the best way to deter a thief??  I've considered
>a Club-type device, but like someone said earlier, just cut the steering
>wheel.  I've considered an alarm, but don't have the money right now.  
>Is there a good, inexpensive way to make a thief look at somebody else's
>car??
>
Yeah. Sit on top of the car's roof 24 hours a day with a loaded shotgun :-)

I had a teacher in high school who was a locksmith on the side. Whenever we
would discuss locks, security, etc. he would always say "Locks keep honest
people honest". Fact is, most any security device designed by a person can
be defeated by a person, if they've got the skill, time, and determination.
Your best bet is to use common sense and the car's existing security (locks),
coupled with a couple sensible aftermarket devices to minimize your exposure
to the three above mentioned factors. Face it - short of locking your car in
a bank vault and hiring armed guards, you're just playing the odds, and
trying to tilt them a bit in your favor.  An experienced thief has probably
seen - and beaten - every mass marketed security device on the market. So,
given enough time, he can beat them. To make an absurd example: if you had
every known device on your car to prevent it from being driven away, the thief
could always steal a towtruck & tow you away if he just HAD to have YOUR car.
Of course, you could always weld your car's frame to a steel post sunk into
a block of concrete to prevent him from towing it. Then he'd have to remember
to steal an acetylene torch too.  :-)  Get the idea?

Best just to accept the fact that life is a risk, and the best you can do
is minimize your risk by doing sensible things. You can reduce your risk on
many things, but you can never get your risk to zero.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bohdan@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (bohdan.l.bodnar)
Subject: Re: Three GM cars with similar windshield wiper problems
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 13:09:15 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.024621.4452@ringer.cs.utsa.edu> tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald) writes:
>They're a Pontiac Sunbird, GMC van, and a Buick (model - don't know).
>These are all several years old, and all have similar problems with
>the wipers going on at random times.  One the Sunbird, when you put
>on a turn signal, the wipers click on.  One the Buick, it when a bump
>is hit, and they turn on for just one cycle.  The GMC's wipers just
>go on at completely random times, and stay on for different lengths
>of time, each time.
>
>These are owned by two separate people.  I heard about the first one
>and laughed.  Then a guy I work with mentioned the two he owns and I
>thought that this might be fairly common.  It's obviously a short some-
>where, and I'm not doing the the work, so nothing has been ruled out.
>I was just wondering if anyone else had come across this in the past
>and had an idea for a solution.  Also, I'm curious just how many people
>who have/had GM's also had this problem.  Thanks in advance.
>
>						-Tom
>-- 
>Okay, one more time.  This is your brain. (egg)
>This is your brain on drugs. (egg in frying pan)
>Any Questions?
>"Yeah, can I have mine scrambled?"


My brother owns a 1984 Skyhawk which had the same problem.  I seem to recall
that GM had a recall for this problem sometime around 1985/86 (I don't think
that "recall" is the correct term -- this was a voluntary thing).  The problem
was in the switch's design.  He had the switch replaced and, some 100k miles
later, no problems.  

Hope this helps,

Bohdan Bodnar
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 20:40:40 GMT
Subject: Re: 'maint reqd' light on Dodge P/U
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In this age of "Computer Driven Idiot Lights" versus "Plain Old Idiot Lights"
the car manufactorers seem to find easier to tie a whole list of engine-
related failures to one light labeled something like "Maintainance Required"
or like mine says, "Power Limited".  If you don't happen to have an engine
analyzer to read the error codes stored in the computer's memory, the dealer
will more than pleased to make an appointment for your visit.

I knew there was a good reason for keeping my '72 240Z!!!  The only computer 
on board is the one that rides in my brief case once in a while.

Good luck tracking it down,
  Gary


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Subject: Re: 12 point bolt heads on Ford
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:42:45 GMT

In article <1992Aug28.131937.4122@infonode.ingr.com>, brantley@infonode.ingr.com (Dwight D. Brantley) writes:
> 
> What kind of tool is used on what appears to be a 12-point bolt head?
> I ran into this on my 83' Mustang while trying to remove the drive shaft
> so that I can replace the clutch.  These are the 4 bolts which connect the 
> drive shaft and universal joints to the differential drive flange.  The
> bolts resemble an inside-out Torx configuration except that they have
> 12 points instead of six.  I thought that a 12-point socket might do the
> trick, but it seems that this would require a 15/32, 12-point socket which
> I have not been able to find.  The Ford dealer was absolutly no help either.
> They said "Yep, takes a special tool.  Don't know what you call it or where
> you could get one though".  Any clues on this would be greatly appreciated.
> My Mustang aint goin nowhere till I solve this!
> 

Yup, 12-point 5/32 sounds about right, nothing special about it though.
I got a 12-point 9 piece socket set in 1/32 increments at an auto swap
meet for $11.  I believe you can get box-end wrenches in 12-point too.

 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *  Sure to get `Flamed' if I didn't cross all my i's and dot all my t's ;-)
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
Date: 26 Aug 92 13:49:56 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL


 Check the intake manifold bolts and retorque if necessary. I got roped into 
fixing up a neighbor's 305 Z-28 a while back and had to chase down a big-time
oil burning/fouling problem. Turned out that the intake bolts were not even 
10 lb-ft tight. You could see bubbles coming out between the intake and the 
head, and who knows what going in. There was oil being drawn in from the valley
splash.

 Worn valve guides/seals is the other Usual Suspect. More work to get to 
though.

 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CLUB Story
From: asr_2@dac.mdcbbs.com
Date: 31 Aug 92 13:45:05 PST
Organization: MDC - Douglas Aircraft, Long Beach, CA
Nntp-Posting-User: ivler

Wife's CLUB just messed up royally.  We go to unlock it and there it is
stuck and the key won't turn(it has one of those circular keys not a regular
one).  We call the locksmith, he laughed and said that this was a common
complaint and came that night to get it off my wife's car.  He hadn't
experience picking that sort of lock, so he drilled the master cylinder
and removed the lock itself.  good news was that it took at least half
an hour so the thing was good, the bad news was that it was a piece of
crap lock.  Also she had it wedged in the corner with the butt of the 
club in the windshield it wasn't till the next morning I saw the 
crack!!!! so it cost me 45 dollars for the locksmith and dunno
how much its gonna be for the windshield..  Any help
for getting CLUB number to yell would be appreciated.  Thanks
Asim