HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bhaskar@brtph181.bnr.ca (Shaji Bhaskar)
Subject: Re: Bloated tetra
Organization: BNR Inc. RTP, NC
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 22:05:27 GMT

In article <1993Jan1.185934.22534@zooid.guild.org> Lynda Fincham <gaea@zooid.guild.org> writes:

>Last night one of my neon's seem to get "bloated" - ie, his stomach got very
>large, and he couldn't sink to the bottom. He spent about half his time trying
>to swim downwards at a rather steep angle, and the rest of the time lying on
>his side on the surface, resting I assume.

>This morning he was fine..

When I feed my Neon tetras flake food, they exhibit similar symptoms
(to a lesser degree).  My hypothesis is that they may be swallowing
some air along with the flakes.

Are you overfeeding, by any chance?  Also, you might want to vary
their diet a bit.  They eat boiled spinach and such veggies in
addition to live foods like brine shrimp.

-Shaji.
-- 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Shaji Bhaskar     BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709     (bhaskar@bnr.ca) 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "robert radford" <robert.radford@canrem.com>
Subject: new buff
Reply-To: "robert radford" <robert.radford@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 29 Dec 92 18:18:35 EST

I have recently acquired an interest in aquariums and looked at a few 
books on how to set one up.

All the books so far seem to skip over the early choices of freshwater 
versus salt water, cold versus warm, plant-oriented versus fish-oriented, 
etc. and jump from telling one how to fill an aquarium with gravel to 
plant and fish lists.

If I wished to set up a plant-oriented (Dutch-type) aquarium with a few 
fish emulating my geographic area (fresh cold water), are there books that 
deal specifically with that situation? And are there books that deal with 
the proper layout of plants (indoor water gardening as it were) and their 
ecological relationships? Or do I just go by guess and by gosh from plant 
lists?

---
 * Freddie 1.2 * Genie: R.L.Radford  Compuserve: 76354,535                  Other: Robert.Radford@canrem.com   
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:9776 alt.aquaria:6367
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Pterophyllum Scalare
Date: 31 Dec 1992 19:14:40 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

A body I know that raises P. Scalare for sale uses either 29 gallon
or 45 gallon tanks; bare glass bottoms; some plastic (gasp, yes)
swordtail plants that go from top to bottom & hook on the bottom
with suction cups; & a slate wedged in for egglaying.  

The temperature & lighting & stuff Oleg mentions sounds right.

I had two pair from dime sized to half-dollar; not sure to this
day what made them keel over within a month of each other.  
(one pair was starting to use a provided slate, the other might
have been two males)

[Howard's Wife Deb]
-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: uchrgrh@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Subject: Re: Tank Voltages
Reply-To: uchrgrh@Msu.oscs.montana.edu
Organization: Montana State University
Distribution: rec.aquaria
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 16:56:07 GMT

In article <COLLINS.92Dec29200800@einstein.AuE.com>, collins@AuE.com (THEGR81) writes:
>
>
>
>I recently measured the voltage in my fish
>tank by placing the positive terminal of my
>voltmeter in the water and grounding the other
>terminal.  I measured a whopping 50 volts. When I
>lift the power cords off the back of the tank the
>voltage drops down to a nice 1-2 volts. 
>
>Has anybody heard anything on this subject or know
>where I might find some good reading material on it?
>
>Thanks.
>
You might try the SCI.ELECTRONICS news group.  They have been quite
helpful to me in the past.
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Opinions on new tank setup.
Date: 1 Jan 93 03:03:32 GMT
Reply-To: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Organization: Commodore, West Chester, PA

In article <1hvhdkINN9im@hp-col.col.hp.com> howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:
>For a 20, skip the angels.  How about two clown loaches, the pleco,
>??the rummy nose tetras.  If so inclined, go for as few as will be
>happy in a school....my only source claims 2" for full grown.
>
>We're about to start experimenting with the bio-wheels (order is
>on it's way), it does look like a better way to go.
>
>Plants add places for fish to hide, which is good; but cut down on
>the space they have to swim.  I'm leery of overstocking any tank,
>& tend to preach on a little under; which gives more leeway in
>case of problems.
>
>[Howard's Wife Deb]
>-- 
>Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com 

The two clown loaches will grow to be more than a bit too large for a 20g
tank, and there is no mention of a larger tak in his future.
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
Robert J. Raible		EMAIL:raible@cbmvax.commodore.com
VLSI Program Manager		 or: {uunet|rutgers|pyramid}!cbmvax!raible
Commodore Business Machines     "my comments, not Commodore's, ok ?"
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: gwynne@stein.u.washington.edu (Kristan Geissel)
Subject: Betta Bubbles and Betta Boo-Boo
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Distribution: pnw
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 20:42:58 GMT

Sorry - I couldn't resist the alliteration.  

I have a male betta who has been blowing what I think are the begin-
ings of the bettas bubble nest.  I have no female bettas so am just
assuming that he has reached sexual maturity and is getting "ready".

The problem is that in my 10 gal tank, the force of the aeration
destroys any attempts at bubble clusters.  He found a short term
solution by building inside a hollow plastic tube about 1" in 
diameter.  My daughter and I got a good look at how beautiful these
bubbles are.  The tube stays in place a bit longer but within a day
will be floated away by the force of the aerator. 

Any suggestions out there?  

The boo-boo is what appears to a be a scrape/tear (very, very shallow)
on the betta's back.  It's been there for about a month; I am clueless
has to how it happened but then I am not sitting next to the tank for
24 hours a day.  Salt in the water seemed to make it heal up but it
still shows.

Any clues from the fish doctors on the net?

ADDITIONAL INFO

pH 7.5 or a bit lower
plain gravel
plain charcoal/floss filter
plain plastic plants
only one fish (long story as to why there is only one fish)

Thanks

Kristan
gwynne@u.washington.edu
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Ramirez Dwarf Cichlid Questions
Date: 29 Dec 92 16:59:35 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc. Plano, Tx.

I have recently become interested in Cichlidae, specifically the Ramirez Dwarf
Apistogramma ramirezi as listed in my Simon & Schuster's Guide to Freshwater and 
Marine Aquarium Fishes. In Barron's it lists this fish as
Ramirez's cichlid, Ram or butterfly cichlid, Papiliochromis ramirezi.

In the Barron's it states that "the most peaceable of cichlids" and very suitable 
for community tanks. Thus my querey.

My setup is 30 gallon, fresh, heavily planted with:

 1 pair small (1.5") Angels
 1 Kuhli loach
 1 4" pl**o
 1 chinese algae eater
 1 pictus or pimelodius cat

Water quality:

0 ppm Ammonia
10 ppm Nitrate
7.6 ph

Weekly 25% water changes, with Zip drops added.
As you can see a somewhat community tank. 

Is this rare or hard to keep fish?
Will this cichlid (a pair) fit in?
Will they tear up my plants?
Will they terroize the others?
Which is true name? Or are there several varities of this type of cichlid?
Any big gotca's with these?

I saw some gold and blue rams at the store and they have the same style of
fins, body etc. Are these the same? How would they do?

Any additional info would be appreciated.



+--------------------------------------+
|Huett Bishop                          |
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|
|Dallas, TX                            |
|                                      |
|Go Cowboys!!                          |
|                                      |
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |
+--------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: High nitrates [M][FILTRATION]
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 09:05:52 GMT

In article <1ha2jjINNnrl@hayaku.protocol.zycad.com> dominick@protocol.zycad.com writes:
>I hope you're kidding about the 99% change.  I wouldn't go any further than
>50% (and that's if you're really in trouble).  Changing 25% every other day

While the gradual 25%/day approach is good and usually preferred, there is 
no reason 99% water change should be fatal.  It's simply harder to do.   The
best way to do it is to drain the water down to just enough to cover the
fish and then drip in the replacement water at a very low flow rate.  

When I have an emergency in a tank, I do not hesitate to do drastic things
-- especially if not doing anything would kill the fish for sure.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: dominick@protocol.zycad.com (Dom Paniscotti)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: High nitrates [M][FILTRATION]
Date: 23 Dec 1992 11:02:59 -0500
Organization: Protocol, a Division of ZYCAD Corporation
Distribution: world
Reply-To: dominick@protocol.zycad.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: hayaku.protocol.zycad.com


|> First, change as much of the water as you can.  Changing 20% only reduces the
|> nitrate by 20%.  Change 99% if you can.
|> 
I hope you're kidding about the 99% change.  I wouldn't go any further than
50% (and that's if you're really in trouble).  Changing 25% every other day
for about a week will drop your nitrates significantly given that the water 
you're adding has 0 ppm nitates. Once you're nitrates drop, 10% changes 
weekly should keep it down. 

I just didn't want any novices doing 99% water changes, and then wondering why
all their fish/inverts were dead within a week do their biological filter
bed going south :-).
-- 
Dom Paniscotti                  internet: dominick@protocol.zycad.com
Protocol, a Division of ZYCAD   phone:    (201) 347-7900            
500 International Drive         fax:      (201) 347-0303        
Mt. Olive, NJ 07828
From: pete@introl.com (Pete Ikusz)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Dead Pl*co!!!
Date: 30 Dec 1992 00:38:27 -0600
Organization: Introl Corp.
NNTP-Posting-Host: introl.introl.com

In article <1992Dec30.015616.7515@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>In <31362@nntp_server.ems.cdc.com> ghart@ems.cdc.com (Geoffrey Hart) writes:
>-->One other note, my corys (bronze) really liked the canned spinach, so'd I
>-->suggest that and the canned beans.  I'll buy a small zucchini about once a
>-->month for a treat, but it's relatively expensive.  Does any know what
>-->effect the salt in the canned beans has on fish?  I've never added salt to
>-->the water, but I've heard that it's ok to do (good for some disease
>-->prevention).  What about the salt in these canned vegetables?
>
>Just about any freshwater fish can tolerate a teaspoon of salt per gallon,
>I really doubt that the amount of salt you're adding equates to that 
>(assuming you drain the water from the beans).
>
>If you're worried, I guess letting them soak a little in a bowl of tap
>water will dilute the salt content of the beans.

I would only start to worry if iodized salt was used on the vegies.
But even small amounts of iodine should not effect the tank at all.
(They should dissapate after a day or two.)
Just don't start dumping teaspoons of it in!

-Pete
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------
Pete Ikusz	Introl Corporation	pete@introl.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: keo@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Oldenburg)
Subject: Fish Stores in Chicago-Land
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 18:32:39 GMT


Does anyone out there know of some good stores to buy freshwater
fish at in the Chicago area (preferably in the North Shore/Evanston -
Skokie area)? Most of the places I've been to have ZERO selection
and unbelievably high prices. Pet Care + seems to be pretty good, but
they don't have a very wide selection.

Also, I've got a 20 gal high freshwater setup and have a couple filter
questions:

1) Do UGF's really make a difference in water quality? I have a pouch
   of activated carbon and some other resin I picked up that I run in
   my power filter to knock the ammonia out. With the addition of some
   new plants my water conditions are: 7.8 pH, 0.0 ppm ammonia and 
   nitrite and about 30 ppm nitrate. Would a UGF be any better or easier
   to use?

2) My power filter is starting to fade into the sunset after several
   years of faithful service. Can anybody recommend a good, affordable
   replacement that would work well for the following population in a
   decently planted tank (Hornwart + Amazon Swords):

   6 Small Neons
   3 Tiger Barbs ( a little over 1 inch)
   3 Albino Corys (the largest is an inch long)
   2 Moonlite Gouramis (2 in long)
   2 Black Tetras (one 1 in, one 1/2 in long)

Send me E-mail with any/all suggestions.

Kurt Oldenburg (The Evil One)
keo@casbah.acns.nwu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tocraig@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (CRAIG MCARTHUR)
Subject: Re: [F] Tough hair algae question
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 22 Dec 1992 15:16 EST  

In article <2800257@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>, booth@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (George Booth) writes...
>In rec.aquaria, pietrzak@cs.uiuc.edu (John Pietrzak) writes:
.....
>George
I too started experiencing problems with hair algae around the end of Oct.  
I have a 20g hex. which is heavily planted.  The algae appeared shortly 
after the introduction of two amazon sword plants (echinodorus amazonia?) 
which looked to be clean at the time of purchase.  As a result they 
recieved a fairly cursory cleaning prior to introduction into my tank.  
I've been able to keep the algae in check using manual cleaning and weekly 
25% water changes.  The four 'Chinese Algae Eaters' (lat.?) I had seemed 
not to be interested in eating the stuff, sticking instead to grazing on 
tank surfaces.  The problem hasn't been eliminated but it is manageable at 
this point.

Craig
tocraig@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov
From: lusty@lusty.tamu.edu (Lusty Wench)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Dead Pl*co!!!
Date: 29 Dec 1992 03:09:40 GMT
Organization: Me
NNTP-Posting-Host: lusty.tamu.edu

In article <9212281615.AA13338@ejvdev4> bmoss@ejv.com (Brian Moss) writes:
>
>I have a dead Pleco and i am deeply saddened and concerned.  Why did he die?


Just a wild guess here.  Did you have any driftwood in the tank?
I read somewhere that pl*co's just about require driftwood to do
well.  Both of our pl*co's have a favorite piece of driftwood on
which they spend most of their time.  Yes, they also chew on it.
We have one piece of driftwood that over the course of the last
4 years or so has been chewed away to almost nothing by the
pl*co who has claimed it.  This guy is gorgeous...about 10-12
inches long.

Lusty
From: ercn72@festival.ed.ac.uk (R.J.Hare)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Goldfish, cold water aquaria.
Date: 22 Dec 92 16:25:49 GMT

Just in case I haven't responded individually to everyone who replied, thanks
to all those who replied to my general query about goldfish and cold water
aquaria last week. I now have enough information to start up a dozen cold
water tanks!

Thanks again.

Roger Hare.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: ***HELP****D
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1993 06:03:40 GMT

In article <1i1cpfINNcd3@cuda.add.itg.ti.com> middendorf@tsd.itg.ti.com writes:
>     My bronze cory cat looks like it is about to explode. Could she have
>     gotten herself knocked up? (I don't know how to tell male from female).

If the scales on the fish stand out and the fish looks like a pine-cone,
the fish probably has dropsy and will eventually die.

>     None of my other cats are in this "explode" condition...so I don't
>     think it is sick.

Not all fish get sick at the same time.

>     What do I do?

If the fish is indeed loaded with eggs, it will eventiually plaster them all
over the tank.  The eggs will be obvious.  The fish will probably not eat 
the eggs.  The eggs will hatch in a few days.  You can remove the eggs from
the tank by carefully prying them up with a razor blade.  Let the eggs hatch
in a separate tank and raise the fry by themselves until they are big enough
to sell or house with the adults.

>Should I move her to her own tank
>     before she has her things (eggs? fry?) or would this upset her? 

Corydoras catfish use external fertilization.  Moving the fish, if it's
really loaded with eggs, will result in the eggs not being fertilized.

However, don't get your hopes too high.  It's more likely to be a disease.  

-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: daf@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (David Forsyth)
Subject: Algae eaters for hard alkaline water (F)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 21:28:47 GMT
Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA


I have a tank containing Neolamprologus Leleupi and Julidochromis
Regani which badly needs an algae eater.  Is there anything that
will take hard alkaline water and the occasional light battering,
and eat algae?  I'm a little nervous about getting Plecostomus
(Hypostomus?) or Panaque species, because I associate them
with soft acid water.

Any suggestions?



Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: (F) Ramirez Dwarf Cichlid Questions
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 09:04:46 GMT

In article <1992Dec29.165935.12758@ttsi.lonestar.org> hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop) writes:
>In the Barron's it states that "the most peaceable of cichlids" and very suitable 
>for community tanks. Thus my querey.

"...of cichlids" is an important part here.  Cichlids are not generally
known for their easy-going, friendly habits.  They get violent when
protecting their eggs and fry and are generally very territorial: i.e. they
will confront and challenge the conspecifics and any fish that look similar
to their potential rivals.

So rams are peaceful for a cichlid, but you should still expect them to get
into confrontations and display battles.

>Is this rare or hard to keep fish?

Wild fish are rare and can be fussy about the water chemistry.  However,
rams have ben bred in captivity for many decades and the "altered" varieties
are commonly available.  The most common form available are the "rainbow"
and "longfin" varieties.  (I personally strongly dislike the "artificial"
varieties -- they are usually sickly looking, torn-up and feeble.  These
pathetic mutants are indeed meek and slow, which may pass for "peacable".
The "natural" strain and the wild fish are full of vibrant colour, energy,
and vigour.  They are always alert, with their fins flaired and ready to
challenge intruders.  When you see the two versions side by side the
differences are obvious).

>Will this cichlid (a pair) fit in?

Depends.  Shouldn't be a problem.

>Will they tear up my plants?

No.

>Will they terroize the others?

They shouldn't.  They may challenge them, but will not pursue them.

>Which is true name? 

Apistogramma is DEFINITELY wrong.  Microgeophagus is nolonger valid
either.  Consult the zoology/biology library of your local major
university.

>Or are there several varities of this type of cichlid?

It's one species.  They are continually reclassified.  

>I saw some gold and blue rams at the store and they have the same style of
>fins, body etc. Are these the same? How would they do?

They are the different colour forms of the same species.  (I prefer "blue"
ones because they are closer to the wild colours)

-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: gdrew@cs.umd.edu (Greg Drew)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Opinions on new tank setup.
Date: 2 Jan 93 05:02:29 GMT
Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742

In article <38243@cbmvax.commodore.com> raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design) writes:
>The two clown loaches will grow to be more than a bit too large for a 20g
>tank, and there is no mention of a larger tak in his future.
Yup, there is a larger tank in the future!  Actually, several.  While doing 
the research on setting up the 20L, I found that a 29 has the same footprint.
Eventually, the 20L will be on the lower tier of the stand, and a 29 will go
on top.  I just do not have the budget to do both right now.  Sigh - the 
real world intrudes again.   Eventually, when I stop being a grad student, 
there will also be a 55 or larger.  After that, my fiancee has told me that
if I want more tanks, we need to move into lager quarters.  Since there is
currently at least one tank in every room but the bathrooms, I guess I can 
understand her position :)  Good thing she is a bit of a fish person herself :)

Btw, the clowns have been in a 10g for 2 years, and have not grown too much.
Should I expect them to show another growth spurt (they did when I first got
them) when I move them to the larger tank?  Also, as I did not know as much
about water chemistry when I first acquired them, could I have stunted their
gorwth through less than ideal conditions? 
							-- GDD
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greg Drew                 | N3MXX 
gdrew@trellis.cs.umd.edu  |
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov)
Subject: Re: Need info on Monterrey Bay Aquarium
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 92 21:39:21 GMT

I have a 1989 AAA Tour Book that says that the hours are 9:30-6 in
the summer and 10-6 the rest of the year.  The fees are $7 for adults
and $5 for students and seniors.  Children are $3 (aged 3-12).  If
you want to call for more current information, the number is (408)
375-3333.

Sean