HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fhuang@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (EL FUMON)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Paramount Series 50
Date: 13 Nov 92 04:12:34 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania


   A friend of mine recently had his bike stolen and is thinking about
buying a new one. A local bike store is selling Paramount Series 50's
for $599. Does anybody have any comments on this bike? Any suggestions
about other bikes in the $600 - $650 price range? Any and all info 
welcome.

-bogueman
From: phuar@csv.warwick.ac.uk (Mr T Moxey)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Help----info
Date: 8 Nov 92 16:45:58 GMT
Organization: Computing Services, University of Warwick, UK
NNTP-Posting-Host: chervil.csv.warwick.ac.uk


I am a physics undergraduate, and am currently up to my neck in trouble. I am
doing a project on the physics of bikes and am particularly looking into the
aerodynamics of wheels ( eg the specialized one etc) and the handlebars. I work
in a triathlon shop here in the UK, but even with this advantage I cannot seem to
get any DECENT hard info on these products, The UK might as well be a different
planet as far as getting getting reports is concerned. If you have any
information, or any email addresses of companies, then I would be very grateful
if you would email them to me. Many thanks,


                                Tim Moxey
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale Crit Frame
Date: 13 Nov 92 13:07:00 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, CTB103@psuvm.psu.edu (Chad Burkins) writes:

>   I'm conidering buying a Cannondale Crit Bike, but I would like
>to do a good bit of long distance road riding with it.
>I found a real good deal on the crit bike, but am I going to be
>crying in pain after 100 miles ?  What kind of difference in
>frame stiffness is there between the crit and a normal road bike ?

Yes, you will be in pain after less than 100 miles.  A Turbo-Matic
or some such saddle may help.  I never had one on my 'Dales.  IMHO,
'Dale Crit frames are suitable for big crit riders who can't afford
a decent (Max or custom) steel frame or entry-level racers/sport riders.
The frames are a _lot_ stiffer than an SL-weight frame but not notice-
ably stiffer laterally than an SP, SPX, or over-size steel frame.  I
have ridden steel bikes that un-comfortably rigid but none that beat
me like a Cannonwhale.

Eric will insist that it's impossible to feel any difference but I have
ridden many frames with the _same_ set of wheels and tires.  I'm
6'-3", 180lbs and ride 61-63cm frames; there is no reason for a smaller
or average-sized rider to suffer with a 'Dale except low cost!  The 2.8
series frames may be significantly less brutal but you're then
approaching the cost of a good SL frame.

David Mackintosh

There are those who may disagree with me, but they're just wrong or
stupid!   B^)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd)
Subject: Re: Avocet Low-Speed Inaccuracy
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 92 00:34:36 GMT

In article <1det8eINN2mu@hpsdlss3.sdd.hp.com> marc@hpsanaeo.nsr.hp.com (Marc Lee) writes:
>I think I remember a similar posting awhile back, but I didn't read it, so
>at the risk of being redundant:
>
>I have an Avocet 40 which gives extremely inaccurate speed readings (on the
>low side) at speeds lower than 10mph.  I tried changing the magnet ring, which
>didn't help.  The gap between the ring and the sensor doesn't seem to affect
>this either -- it's still inaccurate even when the gap is zero!  Can anyone
>help?

I used to have problems at low speed on my 40, but the problem WAS due to there
being a gap that was too large between the sensor and the ring.  Since it's
inaccurate all the way up to 10mph, it may be you have the wrong end of the
sensor next to the ring.  The side with the wires should be nearest the
magnetic ring.  If you've got it installed right but it still doesn't work
with the sensor touching the ring, something's wrong...

Bill
From: ag@hpopd.pwd.hp.com (andy garton)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Re: Shimano SPD & Safety
Date: 9 Nov 92 13:31:19 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard SSG/CCSY-PWD, UK.

Yes, I also experienced this wear problem with SPD cleats.  However, the
worst wear was on the right cleat (the one I clip in and out with most) and
switching the cleats over extended their lives a little (the cleats are also
expensive in the UK).

Andy
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: Bernd.Kischnick@launchpad.unc.edu (Bernd Kischnick)
Subject: Re: rebuilding wheels... more on spokes
Summary: alloy nipples... they are lighter!
Keywords: spoke nipple alloy
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 19:03:08 GMT

In article <92Nov6.225418edt.710@smoke.cs.toronto.edu> javier@cs.toronto.edu (Javier Pinto) writes:

>I have a pair of 36 spoke wheels that I want to rebuild. I plan to use DT
>15/16/15 spokes. [...] and alloy nipples

(15/16/15 guaches: that's 1.8/1.6/1.8mm in european units)
For saving weight, I would suggest to use 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes for
your rear wheel, but also to reduce their number, with unmeasurably
enormous aerodynamic advantages as a side-effect :)

Well you have to keep your 36 spokes: I don't know your rim.
I would not trust a combination of thin spokes _and_ a light rim
(light: lighter than a GP4, or 400g).

Alloy nipples, on the other hand, work quite reliably for me.
Just a few notes:

If you are building the wheels yourself, you'll be happy having bought
some spare nipples; at least that is what I thought when I had trashed
the first few... you have to get used to them.

It's probably a bad idea to use spoke prep. No, friction should be
reduced as much as possible: oil, grease, or better still that special
kind of car wax in (ozone-friendly) spray cans that is used to protect
hidden corners from corrosion. You spray it on a handful of nipples,
it's liquid at first, you attach the nipples, the solvent vaporizes,
and the other day the nipples are wax-coated from the inside and outside.
Truing is still possible.

Protect the nipples from water, or they will corrode and break.
See above.

Only use the best nipple spanner you have, or even buy a new one!

Maybe the spoke tension has to be reduced a bit compared to a 
regular wheel. You will notice that when you start deforming nipples,
not tightening spokes :)

Our german bicycle tech pope (Jobst Brandt's counterpart here, I think :)
mentions the danger of spoke holes too wide. He says there is a chance
the nipple gets pulled through a wide hole, leaving behind its head 
of course. Rims without eyelets are said to have tighter holes.
My rims have eyelets (Mavic SSC331, GEL280 and GP4), and no nipple
has failed so far. So probably Mavic spoke holes are safe.

Ah yes, and use good alloy nipples: DT makes them.

And to my experience light wheels _do_ matter:
I notice the difference in acceleration between my light tubular
wheels and my set of clincher wheels... half a set actually since
my rear wheel has been nicked !@#?*!?@#$! Of course the acceleration
has also suffered a bit without the rear wheel :(

Have fun, ride light! (Oh I hate to quote Shimano :)
-   Bernd.

urgent email to bernd.kischnik@cdc2.ifum.maschinenbau.uni-hannover.dbp.de
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: x3420abo@maple.circa.ufl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: brakes mtb
Date: 5 Nov 92 22:37:38 GMT
Reply-To: x3420abo@maple.circa.ufl.edu
Organization: University of Florida - CIRCA

Some people go out and buy stupidly expensive brake systems because they
need more stopping power.  The person who mentioned the Dia-Compe's is
a smart rider, but there's a cheaper way to endo.  Scott-Mathhauser
brake pads....They're between $(13-15) and they'll stop you faster than
you can realize you're slowing down.  I personally wouldn't recommend
them for the front.  They work better than any pad on the market excluding
XTR "monster" pads which probably work just as well, maybe. S-M pads
work very well in wet weather also.  If your local shop doesn't have
them; educate them fast.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: raymond@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Eric A. Raymond)
Subject: Re: Summary: rebuilding Look pedals
Organization: NASA/ARC Information Sciences Division
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 23:26:49 GMT

sjc@borland.com (Steve Correll) writes:
>Recently I asked how to disassemble a Look pedal to repack the bearings, and
>promised to post a summary. I received no answers except the useful suggestion
>that if one shoves enough fresh grease in, the dirty old grease must come out.
>I guess that's what I'll do.

Probably not the worst thing to do, but not the best either.  Where
are going to put the grease in anyway?

I asked this very question on the net a while ago.  Seems that there
are a few different types of look pedals.  They have small ball
bearings and a sleeve bearing (maybe two).

I didn't even try to find a replacement ofr the sleeve bearing, but I
cleaned it up (not any recognizable wear) before replacing it.  The
bearings are the the same ones you would use in a headset (1/32 ???).

Basically there is the standard locknut arrangement on the out side, a
set of 14 bearings on the inner race, and then a roller bearing and 8
ball bearings on the outer race.  Your mileage may vary though.

You may need a special wrench to undo the knurled lockring on the
inboard side of the pedal.  My pedals came with the tool.

There was one really stiff split washer on the axle which I didn't
remove for cleaning.  Think you need a special tool to get it on/off
without bending it.

It's not too bad a job.  Some tiny parts to deal with.  Probably took
me less than an hour to do both pedals.  Make sure you note the order
in which you remove things. 
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:1882 rec.bicycles.misc:1242
From: chrisv@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Re: Cleaning Road Rash (WAS Clinchers vs. Tubular)
Date: 10 Nov 1992 22:45:21 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory
Reply-To: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov
Keywords: oooch_ouch

This is my procedure for dealing with road rash, based on a substantial
amount of personal experimentation and advice from a plastic surgeon:

1) Spray the road-rash with a local anaesthetic.  If the nerves have had time
to recover somewhat (> 20 min) this will sting; grit your teeth and wait.
Without it you'll never be able to clean the wound properly.

2) Scrub out the wound with soap (preferably anti-bacterial, but not necessary)
and some sort of nylon dish scrubber.  This is critical; it greatly 
reduces the risk of infection and "dirt tatooes," where grit remains under
the skin and discolors it.

3) For the first day or so, apply Neosporin or something similiar.  This step
is optional; if you scrubbed the wound well enough, you can do without
it.  Some argue that strong antibiotics like Neosporin damage tissue
and do more harm than good; the main reason I use it is to prevent scabs
forming and bandages sticking.  For larger wounds, use something like Spenco
Second Skin.  This is a gel sheet with a plastic backing.  This prevents the
wound from drying out and speeds healing.  Put it on smaller wounds too
if you have the patience.  Put aloe-vera gel under the Second Skin; this
significantly speeds healing.  Change it every day for the first week; every
other day thereafter.  In general, avoid letting scabs form; these slow
healing.

4) USE SUNSCREEN!  When you stop bandaging a wound, apply liberal amounts
of opaque suncreen like zinc oxide.  Continue to do this until the skin is
not distinguishable from normal skin (other than color).  Failing to do this
will result in permanent scarring.

5) Keep riding.  If all you have is road rash, there's no excuse to be off
the bike.  Properly bandaged wounds (without scabs) won't hurt much while 
riding.  There's no point in getting out of shape while you heal.


If you ride a substantial amount, and especially if you race, keep the basic
materials around - especially the local anaesthetic, Neosporin and tape.
This will let you perform basic first aid and improvise badages until you 
can get more elaborate supplies.

Happy crashing!

--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
"Blessed are they who Go Around in Circles, for they Shall
be Known as Wheels."
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Subject: Re: About clipless pedals (and Jobst)
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 15:52:06 GMT

jbrandt@hplredHPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt) writes:
>J. Dodd writes:
>> Speaking of Jobst, where is he?  I haven't read anything from him
>> for ages.  Yooo hooo....
>Although our newsreader displayed notes, it did not send any, so
>that's why some old and redundant notes of mine finally got posted
>today because it got fixed.  I noticed the failure because I got no
>hate mail from my "fans" and deduced that I was posting only locally.
>jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
He he he he he.
-Terry
From: dfarquhar@waikato.ac.nz
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Clipless pedals problem
Date: 12 Nov 92 11:06:37 +1300
Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand

Since there is a discussion about clipless pedals going on, can anyone help me
with this problem:

I have owned an Avanti Sprint for two years now.  After one of the original
pedals (plastic with toeclips) broke, I decided to buy some clipless pedals. 
Being a rather poor student, I couldn't afford expensive ones, so I bought a
pair of Keywin (New Zealand brand) pedals for NZ$100 (about US$60?).  These
were of the fixed foot position (feet unable to move in the cleats). 

Shortly after I had these installed by the bike shop, I started experiencing
knee problems, in particular the muscle on the inside of the right knee, coming 
down from the quadricep.  I think it's the vastis medialis ??(sp?).  The first
doctor I saw suggested strapping the knee.  This hepled a little, but not for
long as the knee got really sore during running as well as cycling.  A second
doctor suggested strapping as well, + physio + exercises to build up the
strength in the affected muscle.

I did as suggested, and the knee slowly got a little better, but the problem
started occuring in the left knee as well!  Several weeks ago I took my
clipless pedals off, and replaced them with a pair of Shimano 105's with
toeclips.  My knee's both seem to be better now . . .

And now for the question:
  - Would the problems I had be caused by the new pedals. (I tried changing
seat height, it didn't seem to affect the pain)
  - Would using cleats which allow some foot movement e.g. Look, Time be a
better solution?
  - Do toeclip style pedals like I am now riding allow more foot movement than
fixed position cleats.
  - Does anyone have any other suggestions about this problem?

By the way, I'm going home (from university) in a couple of days, so please get
those replies rolling in now. 
Thanks in advance.

David

email : dfarquhar@waikato.ac.nz
(or if that doesn't work, try dwrigley@waikato.ac.nz)

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kmb@controls.ccd.harris.com (Kurt Brunton)
Subject: Re: Spoke lub defies laws of physics
Originator: kmb@rs2
Organization: Harris Controls
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 13:46:09 GMT



	For 'spoke lube' when building wheels, I've always used linsead oil. As
it drys it turns into a varnish which acts nicely as a lock, but does not bind
when it comes time to true the wheel.  About 5 years ago I bought a pint can for
about US$2 and have probably built close to one hundred wheels. There's still
enough oil left to build what I would estimate at over 10,000 more wheels. Real
economical when compared to the price of spoke prep.

Kurt
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu (Frank Williams)
Subject: Re: spoke prep
Organization: University of Minnesota
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 06:00:25 GMT

Jobst Brandt (jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM) wrote:
: 
: I am fairly certain that riders whose wheels go out of true often are
: riding on wheels whose spokes are not sufficiently tight.  The other
: cause is too few spokes and too thick spokes.  

Bingo.  A case in point:  I recently switched from a GL330 with 36
spokes to a GL330 with 32 spokes.  In addition, the new frame was
spaced for an 8 speed, so the dish was slightly greater.  The old wheels
never gave me a single problem.  The new wheels were ALWAYS in need of 
attention because the loosest spokes, on the outer non-drive flange,
were constantly working slack.  Eventually, they failed at the heads.]
The bottom line: by building with four fewer spokes, I increased the
weight of the rim needed to resist deformation under load.  Some
improvement!  Harumph.

Frank Williams
frank@molbio.cbs.umn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: MTN Bike Deal (What should I do?)
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 92 10:08:03 GMT

In article <lf2ss3INN685@appserv.Eng.Sun.COM> paydayyt@mindbender.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
[opportunity to get great deal on MB-1]

well, 2" of clearance doesn't sound like a lot, if you
want to ride trails and have children.  i'd pass it up... there
will be other deals.  wait for a smaller bike.
-teddy
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu (Michael R. Volow)
Subject: Re: spoke prep
Organization: UNC Educational Computing Service
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 05:25:32 GMT


Does anyone know how Spoke Prep compares to Blue Loktite (the mild-
est variety).
-- 
Michael Volow, Psychiatry, Durham VA Med Center, Durham NC 27712
919 286 0411 Ext 6933               mvolo@uncecs.edu
From: truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell)
Subject: Re: Ritchey Tires
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Distribution: usa
Date: 6 Nov 92 19:27:46 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech

In article <96240@netnews.upenn.edu>, fhuang@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (RECKLESS
ABANDON) wrote:
>
>
>    Anyone have any opinions on Ritchey tires (mainly the W.C.S. ones).
> Also, what about the I.R.C. and Tioga tires?

I really like the RItchey ZMax WCS tires. I consider them right at the top
of my list for all-around performance. They are light. They hook up well on
climbs, They corner GREAT on fast downhills. If I don't know what the
terrain will be like where I am going to ride, I use the ZMax. If I know
it's going to be soft I'll use Smoke/Dart.

I tend to select front tires for their ability to 'talk to me' on fast,
hard-packed descents. Smokes on the front are great (fantastic) up to the
point where they lose traction, then you have to react very quickly to
'grab some more dirt'. If you are already close to the edge of a trail,
this may not be an option. I call the Smokes 'digital' -- they are either
sticking or not. Riding with them on the front is like steering a sailboat
with a small rudder in heavy wind -- you have to go for 'bites' of
traction.

The Ritchey ZMax, on the other hand, tells me when I'm starting to lose
front tire traction and lets me modulate my recovery with a lighter touch.
The result is an overall smoother transit than the rather jerky (but still
fast) transit using Smoke on front.

One thing that puzzles me is Ground Controls. Every picture I see of Ned
Overend he is using Ground Control on the front. These have always been the
most wash-out prone tires I have used on harder surfaces. It feels sketchy
and dicey on fast hard-packed downhills and never fails to completely let
go on me when I push it. The only time I'll use them now is as a 'cross'
tire when I'll be doing more on-road than off-road. And even then it's out
of a sense of economy (may as well crew up THESE treads on pavement instead
of my beloved Ritcheys).

I like the ZMax Ritcheys a lot. I would consider a Cannibal or More Extreme
on the rear but I am very pleased with the overall characteristics of the
ZMax.

  --scott

P.S. I have had great success on rough washed out sections with Smoke on
the front. If the tire gets stuck in an erosion gully the side knobs on the
smoke will let you hold the handlebars steady and just 'walk' right up the
side of the rut onto terra more-firma.
From: ajackson@ernie.Princeton.EDU (Andrew William Jackson)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Repainting a frame myself
Date: 8 Nov 92 02:26:39 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Princeton University
Originator: news@nimaster

In article <1992Oct26.232054.940@muddcs.claremont.edu> dmlieber@jarthur.claremont.edu (Stu) writes:
>I'm considering repainting my frame this week, and I'm looking for
>advice on the best methods for doing this.  The frame is the typical
>midrange cromoly mt. bike frame (Trek 830).  I would like to remove
>the old paint and most likely paint it a flat black with no clear
>coat or anything like at.  I first want to know what the best way
>to remove the old paint would be, and then what kind of primers and
>paints I should use.  It would be nice if I could easily get all the
>supplies from a large hardware type store.  Any suggestions are 
>appreciated, and if people think it's a bad idea, I'd like to hear the
>reasons.  
>
>Thanks,
>Stu
>-- 
>             It's time we had a real president running this country.  
>                       Cast your vote for the third party.
>     
>                           Alice Cooper for President!


Zip Strip will take off the paint on your frame.  It is available at the
hardware store.  I removed all the paint from my mountaiin bike and let
the whole thing rust.  The rust formed a durable good looking smooth brown
finish.  I did this to discourage theft, but my bike got stolen anyways - it
had all deore xt stuff on it.  If you repaint your bike with spray paint it 
will not look as good as you are imagining it.  And it wont even be close
to the finish that is on there now, but if you really want to repaint 
your bike, I suggest that you DO NOT remove the paint that is on there now.
The factory paint job is very good and durable and any paint you put on
will stick better to the current finish than to bare metal.  Lightly sand
the whole frame and then wipe it down with a tack cloth.  (available at a 
hardware store).  Wash the whole frame with acetone.  Then apply several
coats of spraypaint - each coat must be very light.  It should take at
least three coats to cover the old paint.  Do not attempt top repaint
without removing all the parts including the bottom bracket - I guess you
could leave the headset races in if you carefully cover them with masking
tape.

ajackson@athena.princeton.edu
From: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM (John Fox - SunExpress IR)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Help: Clipless pedals for people with bad k
Date: 10 Nov 1992 13:39:15 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: hooksett.east.sun.com

Robert,
I was faced with the same problem a year or so ago when considering clipless
pedals. I torn my ACL 3 years ago, and still have nothing there. Despite that,
I have no problems getting out, or with soreness riding about 100-200 miles
per week in season. My pedals are Look PP66 (adjustable release tension)
with ARC cleats.

John














From: jbrandt@hplredHPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 16:06:10 GMT
Subject: Re: Different diameter spoke replacement??
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA