HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Burglars and dogs and snakes, oh my!
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 17:41:23 GMT

In article <jcn.712423362@keckiris> jcn@rice.edu (Jeff C. Nichols) writes:
>ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff) writes:
>
>>Evidently there was a case where a theif hid in a department store after
>>closing time and was attacked by guard dogs.  Even though he was convicted
>>of burglary he won a case against the store for injuries he received.
>
>And people wonder what's wrong with the legal system.  That's why it 
>is important to remember that if someone breaks into your home/store/car 
>be sure and SHOOT THEM DEAD so that only your side of the story can be 
>told.

The guard rattlesnake idea was being used in Georgia. As of ten years
ago, both Georgia and Tennessee had codified the attitude that a person
forfeits most of their rights during commision of a crime. As an example -
in Tennessee, if you were to drive without a license and were involved
in an accident in which the other driver would normally be at fault, it
would be your fault. It wouldn't have happened if you hadn't been driving
around. I always wondered what would happen if an accident occured in
which both drivers were unlicensed.

Tangling with a guard animal in those States is *your* problem. The legal
premise is that you wouldn't have gotten hurt if you hadn't broken the
law. I believe the owner *is* required to post the fact that the property
is patrolled.

>No smiley.

Amen. Better to be judged by twelve than carried by six.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | Preparation for attack at one point requires that
                    | you weaken your defenses elsewhere. If you are
George Patterson -  | prepared on your right, you are weak on your left.
                    | If you are prepared on your left, you are weak on
                    | your right. If you are prepared everywhere, you
                    | are weak everywhere.           - The Art of War -
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: crowede@ucs.orst.edu (Debra Crowe)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.legal
Subject: Re: Burglars and dogs and snakes, oh my!
Date: 31 Jul 92 18:06:44 GMT
Organization: University Computing Services - OSU

Stavros say:
>I'm horrified.
>
>You apparently value your precious property rights more than human
>life.  No civilized state or country imposes capital punishment for
>burglary, yet you arrogate the right to yourself.
>
>Or maybe it's not even property rights.  Maybe it's simple macho.
>It's just not macho to run out the back door and call the cops.

Well, you've obviously never woken up to a burglar in your living room at 1am
as I have. Believe me, the last thing I was worried about was my property
rights!! I was worried about coming out of this experience alive and in one
piece. I never thought I could shoot a burglar until I had this experience,
believe me, something in you changes once your sacred home has been violated
by two strangers wearing ski masks. It took me several months to not be scared
to open the door when I came home at night. 

Me thinks you don't know what you're talking about until you've been there!

p.s. The County Sheriff who responded to my 911 call told me the same thing --
shoot to kill and make sure they're on your property, (i.e. drag them back to
a window or doorway). >
-- 
Debra Crowe                           Email: crowede@ucs.orst.edu
University Computing Services         Phone: (503)737-3434
Oregon State University
Corvallis, OR 97331
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Pool Leak--repairable?
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 00:44:59 GMT

Our pool has a connected jaccussi which has developed
a leak in the main drain as a result of the recent round of earthquakes
here in California.  Is there any way to fix such a leak, if it is
under the jaccussi?   For that matter, what happens if the same thing
occurs to the pool itself.  Do you have to rip out the pool to gain
access to the plumbing?

If worse comes to worse, I can plug up the main jaccussi drain and
replumb the pipes so that both the filter and the jets take
intake from the remaining drain (which currently supplies only the jets).

Many thanks, please reply to eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov.  -Dan
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: waldorf@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jerry Waldorf)
Subject: DATAQUICK INFORMATION
Originator: waldorf@lanai.cs.ucla.edu
Organization: UCLA Computer Science Department
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 06:45:19 GMT

I have gotten the following information from a friend.  It is supposed
to be a list of comparable sales in the area that I am interested.  I
am having trouble with some of the abbreviations.  If any of you know
what TFR, IMP, ASD,  P, F, etc standfor than I would be greatly
appreciative.

Here is a sample from the list.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
   7):2243-012-029        SITE:5721 XYZ AVE*BIG CITY CALIF               11411
OWNR:ABC,STEVEN AND BAY MAIL:5721 XYZ AVE*BIG CITY   CA                  11411
USE: SINGLE RESIDENCE  ZN: LAR1-1 DATA: 09/05/91 DOC: 1880932 TFR: $1,181,090F
LOANS:    $208,350     YB: 50  SQFT:   1266  ASD:    $177,219 IMP: 39% #UN:  1
PHONE:           RMS:   7  BDRS: 3  BTHS: 2  LOTSIZ:   6885  TR: 15564 LT:  65
---------------------------------------------------------------------

I Can figure out some of them:
YB = Year Built
ZN = ZoNe
TR = TRact
LT = LoT
RMS = RooMS

But I cannot figure out what
TFR = ?
ASD = ?
IMP = ?
#UN = ?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: toilet water level low
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 00:10:52 GMT
Keywords: toilet

In article <l6p798INN5u0@appserv.Eng.Sun.COM> gchin@ssf.Eng.Sun.COM writes:
>
>There is an unusual toilet in this house.  It is an Eljer brand.
>The water level in the "bowl" is very low.  After you flush, the
>water level is normal, but after ~30min, the water level way down
>to almost the bottom of the U-trap.
>
>The flushing is also quite weak.  It is a "low flow" toilet.
>
>Is this normal?

No. This usually indicates that this section of your drain system is
not vented. This situation is, unfortunately, common in "half-baths"
in older houses.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Better" is the enemy of "Good enough".
                    |                     Russian proverb.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: afmartp@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (PETE MARTIN)
Subject: Re: John Deere Lawn Mowers?
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: ORGANIZATION??...Who has time to be organized?
Distribution: na
Date: 31 Jul 1992 08:37 EST  

In article <1992Jul30.191908.18907@primerd.prime.com>, mguyott@eriador.prime.com (M. Guyott) writes...
> 
>What do people think of John Deere Lawn Mowers?  I can get a John Deere
>4 HP rear bagging mower for the same price as a 3.5 HP Toro or Snapper
>($339.00 around here).  The John Deere mower is on sale.  They seem pretty
>comparable to me except that the John Deere has an aluminum deck and the
>Snapper has a better warranty!  I am leaning towards purchasing the John
>Deere but I would be interested in hearing other peoples experiences.
> 
>Also, if I go with the John Deere, they have thier 5HP mower on sale for only
>$100.00 more then the 4HP mower.  The 5HP mower has a blade clutch which is
>nice and it seems like a nicer mower in general.  Any opinions about whether
>or not I should spring for the 5HP?

I have the JD 14SB rear bagger.  I think it is 3.5 HP I can't remember for 
sure.   I have only three words to say about it: I LOVE IT.  This is the
 second season I have had it. 
It is self-propelled, 5 speeds, a blade clutch and I got the mulching plate
"attatchment".  My yard is slightly larger than 1/3 acre and it runs like 
a dream.  It mulches extremely well and I am very satisfied with it.  I was
ecstatic this past fall when I really didn't want to rake the leaves--IMHO
the WORST part of yard work.  I was able to plow through 6-inch deep drifts
of leaves with the John Deere, and just like the commercials, THEY all 
dissappeared!!!  I would definitly recommend the Deere over the others.
***************************************************************************
* Pete Martin                                                             *
* NASA Lewis Research Center                                              *
* Cleveland, OH                                                           *
* (216)433-8731         afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov                      *
***************************************************************************

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Removing mirror tiles
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 20:53:04 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

FB.MXP@forsythe.stanford.edu (Michelle Pallas) writes:

> Does anyone have a method for removing mirror-tiles  (about 6"
> square adhesive back tiles, the kind with the tacky gold scribbles
> on them) that doesn't involve broken glass, or tearing off part of
> the wall along with the adhesive?

Use something long and thin, like a 12" hacksaw blade, to cut away
the little squares (they're generally a layer of foam, with adhesive
on each face). Find a suction cup to use for a handle on the glass,
so you don't drop it. Do the top ones first, then tilt it out so you
can get to the bottom ones easier (may even be able to peel them 
apart, if you're careful).

Getting the leftovers off the wall is probably best accomplished 
with a razor blade scraper, and lots of patience.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.legal
From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks)
Subject: Re: Burglars and dogs and snakes, oh my!
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 17:36:01 GMT


In article <1992Jul29.135035.957@oswego.Oswego.EDU>, ostroff@Oswego.EDU (Boyd Ostroff) writes...
>I'm not a lawyer (and don't even play one on TV), but as I understand it
>having any kind of viscious animal on your property could become a
>big liability problem.  The fact that someone is guilty of burglary does
>not justify a dog/snake attacking them according to stories I've heard.
>Evidently there was a case where a theif hid in a department store after
>closing time and was attacked by guard dogs.  Even though he was convicted
>of burglary he won a case against the store for injuries he received.
Depends on where you live.  In Colorado, the expedient approach would be
to have a big dog and a gun.  Let the dog munch the burglar while you get gun,
then shoot the burglar so he can't take you to court.  Intruders to your
home have no civil or criminal recourse against you in CO; killing them
simplifies things (burglar can't testify against you), and benefits
other people who would have been targetted by the burglar in the future.
In other states (that I'm familiar with), say WI and NY, the state has
diminished the rights of the property owner for the sake of the burglar
and the scenario would be entirely different.

	Randy Marks
(UUCP)	                {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks
(INTERNET)              marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com
(domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com
..........................................................................
	"No man's life, liberty, or property is safe
	while the legislature is in session."
..........................................................................
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: beb@pt.com (Bruce Buck)
Subject: Milky Spore (was skunks)
Organization: Performance Technologies, Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 13:09:52 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.030149.9350@webo.dg.com> don@loki.ceo.webo.dg.com writes:
>This came up in my gardening class.  Like someone else said, the skunks are
>after grubs.  To control the grubs you can use Milky Spore Disease.  This
>infects the grubs and should last forever (provided you don't kill the
>Milky Spores) but will take awhile (3 to 5 years) to be fully effective.
>You can also use Diazinon or Dursban, but these are nasty chemicals 
>that may kill more than the grubs (read the labels).  I think
>these chemicals kill Milky Spores, so you can't do both.

Does Milky Spore survive over the winter?  I've heard differing reports.
They certainly sell it in the Northeast, but will it survive hard freezes?
Has anyone actually used the stuff to their satisfaction?
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lowry@watson.ibm.com (Andy Lowry)
Subject: What is a wrap-around mortgage?
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 15:15:24 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

Can somebody describe what a "wrap-around mortgage" is?  The co-op I'm
looking at apparently took one of these from (or at least with the
help of) the sponsor on the building when it converted.  If somebody
could explain what this means in terms of who now owes money to whom,
and what happened to the original building, etc., I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!

--
Andy Lowry, lowry@watson.ibm.com, (914) 784-7925
IBM Research, P.O. Box 704, Yorktown Heights, NY  10598
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin)
Subject: Re: Building wooden entrance doors
Reply-To: 1596118@x400gate.bnr.ca
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 18:27:07 GMT

 
This article was supposed to go to rec.woodworking and misc.conusmers.house
but I only set it to rec.woodworking because of a type.

In article <1992Jul21.153825.15192@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, jims@bnr.ca (Jim Spallin) writes:
|> Hi folks,
|> 
|> I've been tossing the idea around of replacing the metal clad 
|> front entrance door to my house, the bottom is rusted quite 
|> badly.  One of the ideas I have is to build the replacement myself.
|> I've done a fair bit of woodworking and feel comfortable with the project.
|> A while ago, while reading the 1990 building code book I recall seeing
|> a reference to a code that exterior doors must be constructed to, but
|> alas, I don't know where to go to find out what those code requirements
|> are.  I've checked the library on door construction, but everything seemed
|> to revolve around stylized interior doors.
|> 
|> If you can comment on any/all of the following it would be appreciated:
|> 
|> Material:
|>   I'm thinking of using white oak or ash, or possibly cedar.  Any comments
|>   on insulation differences between the two?  Rot resistance?  Will cedar 
|>   hold up in the long run, will it be strong enough?  Any other ideas?
|> 
|> Construction:
|>   I'm planning on raised panels with rail and style construction, but
|>   I'm concerned about wind/air flow through the cracks between the
|>   panels and the rail/styles.  Are there any compounds that would
|>   seal properly, while still be flexible enough to allow wood movement?
|> 
|> Finish:
|>   As half of this door will be exposed to the elements, what would be a 
|>   good finish?  I'd like to be able to see the wood grain so maybe a 
|>   good spar varnish?  What about the marine varnishes/polyeurethenes?
|>   Would it be a good idea to install a storm door to limit the exposure
|>   to wind/rain/snow?
|> 
|> Please send e-mail and I'll gladly consolidate the responses and post
|> the info to the net.
|> 

-- 
Jim Spallin, (613)765-2581
Opinions expressed are my own, although others are free to share them
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.invest.real-estate
From: elaine@mote.Berkeley.EDU (Elaine Serina)
Subject: TOWNHOUSE FOR SALE !!!
Reply-To: elaine@mote.Berkeley.EDU (Elaine Serina)
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: ba
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 07:20:34 GMT

TOWNHOUSE FOR SALE!!!!!

* Comfortable 2 story condo
* 2 bedrooms, 1 1/2 baths
* sunny living areas/cathedral ceiling
* fireplace in living room
* carpeted throughout
* corner unit with lots of sun
* southern deck off living area
* patio off each bedroom
* laundry in unit
* covered parking
* walking distance from UC Berkeley campus

A great deal at $155,000 !!!

Personal comment:  
	I lived here for 3 years and loved it!  The area is safe, quiet,
and easily accessible to major streets, bus, and BART.  Having neighbors
on one side only makes for a peaceful living environment.  My parents
are selling this great townhouse because my brother and I graduated.
	With the low available interest rates, monthly payments are
very comparable to current rental units and apartments, if not lower.
And with the limited housing available for UC Berkeley students, roommates/
tenants are in abundance.  It's a great opportunity in today's 
buyer's market.

Please respond to me by email if you are interested.  Thank you.

Elaine
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Drain vents might be clogged
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 00:03:25 GMT

In article <1992Jul21.195607.16618@eos.arc.nasa.gov> phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone) writes:

>I suspect that the drain vent(s) in my house might be clogged
>in some way.  All the sinks drain slowly, and after toilet flushes
>or during prolonged draining (showers, etc.), a "snuffling" sound
>can be heard from somewhere in the house.

Most plumbing codes require that each bathroom be vented separately.
Some codes require this for other units like kitchens. The vents
are usually two or three inch plumbing pipe run straight up through
the roof. The "snuffling" sound is usually caused by the water in the
toilet bowl being sucked down by the vacuum created by draining other
fixtures. If you watch it, it will fall low enough for air to pass
through, then the water in the trap will fall back in the bowl (making
your sound) and the process will repeat. If you locate the source of
the noise, you will also locate the plugged vent.

>How can I confirm this, and if the vents are clogged, how can
>they be cleaned out?

Well, air has to come into the system from somewhere. If the vent(s)
are clogged, that air will enter by pulling all the water out of the
trap of another sink or tub. If there is no water in one of the traps
(any one), you have a clogged vent.

The vents are usually (but not always) simple extensions of your main
drain downfall. If this is the case, you can check for blockage with
a small plumb bob. If blocked, buy a medium size, hand powered sewer
"snake". I have found that the flat band type doesn't work worth two
cents. The round cable type is better.

Oh yeah, this is done from the roof.

I think you may have two problems, though, because the vent situation
won't normally cause *all* the sinks to drain slowly. Dry using a
good root killer for drain lines. That may be the main problem there.

Oh - one more thing. If you have more bathrooms than vents, this is
not good.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | "Better" is the enemy of "Good enough".
                    |                     Russian proverb.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: building a house
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 19:22:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Jul30.170204.14241@dg-rtp.dg.com>, eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:
|> The instructor of my Residential Construction Management course made a big
|> point of telling us that it's important to have your full financing lined up
|> before you hire anybody to do *any* work on the land (even just clearing
|> brush, for example), and before any purchased.  This is so that the bank will
Sorry, that was supposed to be 'before any materials are purchased' (or
delivered).

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
From: ec@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Edgar Circenis)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 14:23:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Bathroom Trouble...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

> I have a home fix-up question and solution i'd like to have comments
> on.  My bathroom tile is pulling away from the dry wall in one big
> slab.  The solution to fixing I outlined below.  Is there anything
> i'm missing?

I'm in the process of installing bathroom wall and floor tile, and here's
what I know:

> 	5.  Re-cement tiles.  May need two days to dry.
> 
> 	6.  Re-grout tiles.  May take another two days to dry.
> 
> 	7.  Seal with water sealer.

The adhesive and grout that I have suggests that the grouted tile be allowed
to cure for two weeks before applying a water sealer.

> Some questions I have:
> 
> 	2.  Should I paint the dry-wall underneath regardless
> 	    of what I find?

You should always paint the drywall with a latex primer to ensure better
adhesion.  Odds are, you will tear the drywall to shreds when you remove
the tile, so prepare yourself for even more work.

> 	3.  After soaking, how should I go about cleaning
> 	    adhesive and grout off the tile?

Edgar "Tiling bathroom floor tonight" Circenis
From: r1156c@sps.mot/com (Michael R. Dow)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: To close or not to close on a new house with a leak!
Date: 23 Jul 92 16:17:35 GMT
Reply-To: r1156c@sps.mot/com (Michael R. Dow)
Organization: David Mitchell & Associates - Austin

..leaky contractor stuff deleted....


Do not... DO NOT! close until the contractor can deliver a house to YOUR	
SPECIFICATIONS.  You'll never see the guy again if you give him his money.

Michael R. Dow
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: What about alarm systems (was Burglars and dogs)
Date: 31 Jul 92 19:53:51 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

In article <9207301918.AA28287@sumac09.cray.com> jjd@TEAK.CRAY.COM (Jeff Drummond) writes:
>There is no complete solution to the real problem of burglary.

Please note that Andy was not talking about burglars (assumption of
interest in property only) but intruders in general.

>To my way of thinking, if the burglar gets inside your house then your
>security system(s) (canine and/or electronic) have already failed to
>do their job.  

I disagree. Your security system should have more to it than a mechanical
alarm or dog. If the intruder gets into your house, then the alarm or
dog has done ITS job, which is to alert you. If that is the extent
of your security system, then you have to take the consequences.

-- 
My opinions are my own.