HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: Mirror lock-up, Has anybody really tested?
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 04:38:22 GMT

There were some tests of mirror lock in _Shutterbug_ a few months ago.
The author found that it helps, but not as much as people suppose.
(Bear in mind that most of the vibration that you feel and hear is _after_
the exposure, not before it.)

I believe the survey in Shutterbug found that the Olympus OM-4 had such
a good shock absorber built in that mirror lock made little difference
Such has been my experience doing astrophotography with the OM-1.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :   Verbum caro
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :    factum est
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :  et habitavit
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :   in nobis...
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jchen@wind.bellcore.com (Jason Chen)
Subject: Re: Is EOS 28-105 USM much better than 35-105 USM lens?
Reply-To: jchen@ctt.bellcore.com
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 19:33:37 GMT

|> In article <1992Dec15.155620.17767@spider.co.uk> mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:
|> >In article <1992Dec12.011901.9252@news.mentorg.com> arora@arora.mentorg.com (Arora Amitabh @ PCB x3080) writes:
|> >>
|> >>What is a parfocal lens ?
|> >
|> >A parfocal zoom lens is one in which you can focus it for one focal length,
|> >then change the focal length without having to refocus.  On manual focus
|> >zoom this is a nice feature since you can zoom in to the full magnification
|> >of the lens, focus, then zoom back out to frame your shot.

Parfocal or not, when you zoom in, you would almost always have to refocus.

Jason Chen
From: wtyler@adobe.com (William Tyler)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Zone VI 4x5 view comments ?
Summary: Correction
Date: 18 Dec 92 20:45:32 GMT
Followup-To: rec.photo
Organization: Adobe Systems Inc., Mountain View, CA

In article <parsons1-171292183256@17.5.10.191> parsons1@applelink.apple.COM (Don Parsons) writes:
>In article <1992Dec14.152551.6976@spectrum.xerox.com>,

(commenting on the Zone VI 4x5 camera)

>Cons:
>* According to the Calumet catalog, it does not allow interchangeable
>bellows. So, you could not, for example, add bellows for wide angle lenses.
>(I am curious to know what the shortest supported focal length is for this
>camera.)

The 4x5 Zone VI camera DOES have interchangeable bellows, and a bag
bellows is available. The 8x10 Zone VI does not have interchangeable
bellows, and this may have confused you (or the catalog may be wrong).

Bill

-- 
Bill Tyler      wtyler@adobe.com
From: lantis@math.orst.edu (David Lantis)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need help getting dark B&W sky
Date: 11 Dec 92 18:32:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: gaia.1gams4INNhcq
Organization: Oregon State University Math Department
NNTP-Posting-Host: lab1.math.orst.edu

When I tried to do this, there were some clouds in the sky.  (If not,
the sky is pretty uninteresting so crop out as much as you can).  I had
better luck with an Orange filter and a polarizer.  Also, Adams main
'trick' for getting dramatic skies was to burn the heck out of them in
the darkroom -- you can see this in the change in grey tones in "Moon
over halfdome", for example.  According to my data sheet T-Max 100 does
not have an extended red sensitivity (relative to pan).  I know some
people do like to use two filters at once, I normally do not, but if you
are after a particular effect then you might as well try it.  Also, if
you slightly underexpose the shoot, the sky will usually keep more
detail.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper)
Subject: Re: was going to get 8008s but EOS 10s recommended
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:12:29 GMT

pd@sics.se (Per Danielsson) writes:

>In article <1992Dec11.134623.13231@progress.com> matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper) writes:

>>  One other thing to consider is whether or not you are willing to
>>purchase used lenses.  There are a hell of a lot more used Nikon lenses
>>available than Canon lenses 'cause Cannon did everyone that favor a few years
>>back and changed the mount.  If you're patient and willing to wait you can get
>>deals like the 35-135 AF 4.5 for $250 like I did.  :-)

>Since Canon and Nikon started making AF lenses at about the same time,
>I don't see how the fact that Canon changed from FD mount to EF mount
>could have any effect on the number of used AF lenses around for
>sale.
>The only reason for there being more used Nikon AF lenses around
>would be the fact that more have been manufactured and sold.
>--
>Per Danielsson				pd@sics.se
>Swedish Institute of Computer Science, PO Box 1263, S-164 28 KISTA, SWEDEN


  I didn't specify AF lenses on purpose.  Granted, some people would brand
me a heretic for using *manual* (my god!) focus lenses on my 8008, but I do.
I don't have the $$ to get all the focal lengths I want to do my photography
at the speeds I want.  As an interim measure I've picked up some used lenses.
I feel it's better to have a manual lense (say 200mm F3.5) than not have a 200
at all.

  This is where the difference comes in.  The old manual focus Canon lenses
wil not work on the new cameras.  The Nikons will.    Being a software 
engineer I look at it as a "Work Around" :-)

-Matth


          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)  
--
          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)  
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: micki@netcom.com (Michelle Stone)
Subject: Re: STUCK Fujichrome 34 prints: help!
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 09:05:11 GMT

jromao@bragg.bio.purdue.edu writes:


>	Does anyone know how to separate Fujichrome Type 34 prints that got
>stuck face-to-back during mailing?
>	Can reply to jromao@bilbo.bio.purdue.edu
>	Thanx.

Now... let's see.  Fujicolor is the print film and Fujichrome is the 
slide film right? (hehehe) Can I have some fun at your expense?

Naw... not nice.

Michelle

-- 
micki@netcom.com

By the way.  I find myself to be a recent addition to the 
unemployment statistic.  I am a software manager.  If  you know
of an opportunity, please let me know!

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: jromao@bragg.bio.purdue.edu
Subject: Re: Olympus Stylus Recommendations
Reply-To: jromao@bragg.bio.purdue.edu
Organization: Purdue University, Dept. of Biological Sciences
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 23:55:53 GMT

Yes. BUY it! I also have a Konica Big Mini and a Nikon F4. The Stylus might
be the best P&S around.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: high contast film processing using D-19 developer
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 19:42:32 GMT

In article <1g64i6INN78o@crcnis1.unl.edu>, kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting) writes:
> Hi,
>    Did anyone use the Kodak D-19 developer to develope T-max film or
> tri -x ffilm ? I am trying to get some very high contrast negetive,
> to print the picture with black and white only with no intermediate
> tone. Any suggestions ? 
>    Thanks.
> 

Kodak contrast Process PAN 4155. Sheet only BTW.

What ARE you doing?

~Paul

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel)
Subject: Nikon MF lenses on AF bodies
Organization: University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:27:47 GMT


Is there any performance penalty in using
 MF lenses on AF bodies (for Nikon)?  I'm
 just wondering, as someone told me once that
 you lose 2/3 of a stop of lens speed.

Thanks.

Rodney Gitzel
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Sigma lenses etc
From: jenny@gphs.vuw.ac.nz (Jenny Rollo)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1992 23:53:43 GMT
Organization: Institute of Geophysics, Victoria University of Wellington, NZ

Hi,

I have recently bought a Nikon 801S and am now starting to think of buying all the
bits and pieces that I'll need to go with it.  My first requirement is a flash.  
Of course the SB-25 is undoubtedly a magnificent piece of equipment, but at $790NZ  it is a bit above my budget...after having just spent $1600 on the camera!
I have been looking at a Metz flash with guide number of 28 ay only $139.  I would appreciate any help from people with an 801S as to what flashes they use.  I obviously want the best priced one that will be the most compatible with my camera.

My second purchase is for a zoom up to 300mm.  I have been told that Sigma is the best (after Nikkors themselves) and that Tamrons and Tokinas are not fully compatible with all the AF mechanism on the 801S.  Is this true??  Apparently the 90-300mm Tokina doesn't work on the 801S at all.  Does this mean that Sigma is my only option if I can't afford the more expensive Nikkors??

Finally has anyone used the manual adaptor that means you can use an ordinary manual cable release?  The electronic cable release is $194NZ whilst the manual adaptor is $110NZ.  If the electronic one is better, which I guess it is, the price difference may be O.K.

Thanks in advance.

Jenny Rollo.
jenny@gphs.vuw.ac.nz
From: mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Xmas displays
Date: 16 Dec 92 15:38:39 GMT
Organization: Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, UK.

In article <92349.231651STAN@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> STAN@VM.TEMPLE.EDU (Stan Horwitz) writes:
>With Christmas  being only  a few  days from  now, many  of my  naighbors have
>decorated their houses  with Christmas lights and other stuff.   Some of these
>homes are quite nicely decorated and I  would like to capture them on film for
>posterity.  My goal is to record colors and details of each home.
>
>Clearly,  a tripod  will  be essential  in  this project,  but  are there  any
>accessories needed for this type  of photography?  Most importantly, what kind
>of color film  is best suited for night time  Christmas light photography?  In
>addition to the lights themselves, I want to get some details of the buildings
>to which  the lights are  attached.  I  own a Minolta  7xi camera with  just a
>35-70mm zoom lense.

I've had good results using normal off-the-shelf color print film (400 ASA)
and 1/30-1/60 second exposure at f/4.5.  If you're want to get some of the 
building detail as well, and you're not too far away, you could try using a
flash to provide some lighting for the parts not lit up by the Christmas
lights.

Good luck!
Mike Coren

PS - I'm convinced that Edinburgh, Scotland, is the tacky Christmas light
     capital of the world.  Some of the places around here are awful!
     The big posh 5-star Caledonian Hotel is the worst!

-- 
Michael D. Coren, Electrical Engineer             mikec@spider.co.uk
Telecommunications Techniques Corporation, Germantown, Maryland, USA.
Temporarily at Spider Systems Limited, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK.
From: dnewcomb@whale.st.usm.edu (Donald R. Newcomb)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Keywords: HELP
Date: 12 Dec 92 16:40:42 GMT
Organization: University of Southern Mississippi

In article <1992Dec12.140910.5999@spock.UUCP> gumby@spock.uucp (Danny Richman) writes:
>	I have recently been assigned to take indoor sports BW pictures for my
>school newspaper.  It's definitely a change of pace from the outdoor pictures 
>of fall sports which I take with 400 ASA Tri-x.  I need to take pictures at a 
>1/1000 sec. shutter speed so that the sports pictures are frozen, not blurred.
>I decided that it was necessary to use 3200 ASA T-Max due to the low light 
>conditions, but I am at my last stop and can't afford to push the film at all.
>When I enlarge the pictures I get a lot of grain.  Well, sure I expected it, 
>but isn't there anything I can do????  Is there any fine grain Black and White
>films out there????  Can't anyone help me????

Yeah. Go out and get an old bulb-type flashgun and some #25FP bulbs.
Then use ASA  400 film. I'm sorry, but having done this since the '60s
I find it hard to be sympathetic about grain at ASA 3200. Most of my
cameras don't even have that setting!
-- 

Donald R. Newcomb                * Life only admits two states: 
dnewcomb@whale.st.usm.edu        * growing and dying. So what,
newcomb@usmcp6.bitnet            * if I've put on a little weight?
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole)
Subject: WD-40 Remover?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 15:11:19 GMT

I recently inherited a camera from my parents. It is
a Agfa Jsolette made in Germany. I remember seeing 
pictures of my brother and sister taken with it before
I was born so it has to be at least 30 years old.
It looks more like fifty.

Anyways, this camera is a medium format viewfinder
camera, with apperature, shutter speed and focusing
controls. Focusing involved using a separate rangefinder
to measure distance and then turn the front lens
to the desired distance. When I got the camera, I could
not turn the lens to focus so I sprayed it with a
little WD-40 and let it sit. An hour later everything
was working fine. The next day the WD-40 had seeped
in behind the lens, behind the next lens and onto the
shutter. (between the lens shutter). This stuff really
works! A little too good in fact. Now the shutter
doesn't work. The stuff doesn't seem to evaporate
and is just gumming the works up more the longer its
on the shutter. I've got the lenses off and tried
to clean the shutter but the WD-40 is all over it 
and keeps running back. I tried using a little
isopropyl alcohol to dilute the WD-40 and hope
that it would help the WD-40 evaporate but it didn't
work that well. Can someone suggest something to 
dissolve this stuff? The camera isn't worth much
so going to a pro is out of the question.

Happy Holidays.
Tom...
From: hchong@netcom.com (Hoi Chong)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Photo-CD drive specs??
Date: 17 Dec 92 16:46:59 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest)

From article <1992Dec9.001855.25510@tellab5.tellabs.com>, by stuart@tellabs.com (Rick Stuart):
> In article <BywFpn.AHp@jabba.ess.harris.com> mac@mercury.Harris-ATD.com (Mike McDonald) writes:
>>  Does anyone (Kodak?) know what specification I should look for inorder to
>>ensure that the CD-ROM drive I buy is Photo-CD copatible? For instance, is ISO
>>10149 the right one? None of the computer dealers in this area having any ideal
>>what I'm talking about when I say multisession.
> 
> 
> You want a: XA (extended architecture)  -  mode 2  -  Multi Session  CD drive
> 
> The important part is "Multi Session"!!!

Do you know what multi session means?
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rmandaya@uceng.uc.edu (Ramanand Mandayam)
Subject: print drums, jobo
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 17:50:01 GMT

Hi folks,

I am planning on doing some color sheet-film and color print developing.
I am looking at buying a sheetfilm/print developing drum in combination
with a motor base. I would very much like to buy the Jobo or Besseler
but am not able to afford it currently. I intend going about it the
following way: I buy a Jobo print drum for an 8 x 10 print which can be
converted to handle 4 4x5 sheet films and start using these by rolling
them manually. Later when I can afford it, I buy the roller/processor
from Jobo and hopefully get the benefits of the other hardware such as 
tempering bath, motorized roller etc..


I would like your opinions on this scenario. Is it worthwhile building
up like this, or am I likely to land up with incompatibilities later on.

thanks in advance

ramanand
-- 
rmandaya@uceng.uc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: rohit@Xenon.Stanford.EDU (Rohit Chandra)
Subject: Minolta 7xi v/s 5xi. Recommendations?
Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University.
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1992 23:22:39 GMT

I am trying to decide between the Minolta 7xi and the 5xi,
and would welcome opinions/suggestions from people on the net.
The 5xi is cheaper, but I haven't fully understood the features
that it lacks w.r.t. the 7xi.

Please respond to me directly.
Thanks,
Rohit

rohit@cs.Stanford.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: glp@fig.citib.com (Greg Parkinson)
Subject: Re: More Medium Format Questions?
Originator: glp@merlin
Organization: Citibank IBISM
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:07:02 GMT


In article <329@metran.UUCP>, jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
|> glp@fig.citib.com (Greg Parkinson) writes:
|> : 
|> : In article <1992Dec9.170330.25194@cbnews.cb.att.com>, fohl@cbnews.cb.att.com (mark.e.fohl) writes:
|> : 
|> : |> There are several rangefinders available.  Fuji makes a series of them in
|> : |> 3 formats: 6 x 4.5, 6 x 7, and 6 x 9. 
|> : 
|> : and 6 x 17.  ::sigh::
|> : 
|> : All these big rangefinders are *pricy*, though.
|> 
|> Well, they may be beyond *my* budget too, but you must admit that compared
|> to other medium format equipment (Hasselblad, Mamiya, etc.) they are quite
|> reasonable.  I think that less than $1000 for a 6x7 or 6x17 is *good*!

Up to 6x9, you're right, but the 6x17 is a bit less
than $2500.

-- 
Greg Parkinson                  Phone: 212-657-7814  Fax: 212-825-8607
Citibank,111 Wall Street        E-Mail: glp@fig.citib.com
New York, New York  10043
The opinions expressed are my own and not those of the big 'ol bank.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: fedrick@tigger.cs.Colorado.EDU (Kelvin W. Fedrick)
Subject: tugsten lighting in black&white photography
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 03:43:28 GMT

I am interested in doing some indoor black&white still life photograpy.
I understand the difference tugsten lighting or quartz halogen lighting
makes for color photography but I am interested in how it affects B&W
photography. Specifically I would like to be able to make multiple
light setups using tugsten lighting (I cant afford electonic flashes
nor a flash meter) which would allow me to use my cameras meter. Is
it really necessary for B&W film to use a color correcting filter?

It would also be nice if you qualified you answers as to whether they
are based on personal experience or just from a theoretical point of
view.

-kelvin
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Organization: Curtin University of Technology
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 13:11:09 GMT

In article <1gk2uiINN6tr@uniwa.uwa.edu.au>, craig@ec.uwa.oz.au (Craig Richmond - division) writes:
> mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
> 
>>In article <1992Dec7.203046.7824@cs.UAlberta.CA> rodney@cs.UAlberta.CA (Rodney Gitzel) writes:
>>>In article <1992Dec7.005857.22916@umr.edu>, tonyp@mcs213a.cs.umr.edu (Tony Phillips) writes:
...
> When a big burst of fireworks goes off up in the sky, the view that can be
> seen of all the camera flashes going off on the shore (show is held over a
> big river in front of Perth) is probably more impressive than the fireworks
> themselves.
> 

Say that again!! I watch that show from the ranges to the east of Perth ( ~10m )
and Kings Park is just behind the 'firing range' over the river. The flashes
going off looks like the blitz...

~Paul
From: koonj@hpsgl1.sgp.hp.com (Koon-Jan LIM)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: EOS flash compensation
Date: 14 Dec 92 10:28:30 GMT
Organization: Asia Peripherals Division, HP Singapore
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]


When you want your pics to show softer flash,
you set negative flash compensation on the Elan.
Right? By softer I mean less flash output from
the camera. Thanks.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hasker@cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker)
Subject: small lithiums
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 16:43:25 GMT

My brother is going to be spending several months in south Asia and is
getting a camera before he leaves.  I recommended the Olympus Stylus
because it's small but does the sorts of things he needs.  However, I'm
unsure of one thing: will he be able to get the small lithiums that go
into this camera?  I'm assuming that by now you can get the larger
lithiums that go into most PS's virtually anywhere in the world, but I
wonder if that's true yet of the smaller ones.  Does anyone have
experience with this?  (Of course, given the shelf life of these things
he can probably take enough with him to cover his trip, but I would
like to know if this would be a big problem.)

Thanks!

Rob
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Monday, 14 Dec 1992 08:50:25 MST
From: <IDMLH@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Distribution: na
 <1992Dec11.180922.17435@cbnewsm.cb.att.com>

I had a similar experience this summer at Yellowstone National Park.
I couldn't believe the amount of people with their instamatics so close
to the animal that I kept thinking "OH GOD...THEY'RE GOING TO PISS OFF
THAT ELK AND HE'S GOING TO CHARGE LEAVING SUCH NICE HOLES IN THEIR BODIES."
Thank Goodness nothing like that happened while I was there.  But if you
notice situations like that, the REAL photographers are as far away as
possible (so as not to induce bodily harm) with  TELEPHOTO LENS.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: kar@cs.rit.edu (Kenneth A Reek)
Subject: Re: Beach Camera OK? (EF lens without warrantee card)
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 23:05:22 GMT

In article <19954@ucdavis.ucdavis.edu> auyeung@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (Tak [UlTech] AuYeung) writes:
>Does anyone have any bad experiences with Beach Camera of Maine?  I ...

	I've bought a lot of things through mail order, and the worst
experience I've ever had by a huge margin was with Beach.  I don't want to
recount the gory details as it will only give me a headache and I'd rather
not ruin my weekend.  I will say that it took 5 months.

	It is obviously too late for the previous poster to avoid Beach,
but I would not order from them again no matter what prices they advertise.
-- 
Kenneth A. Reek				kar@cs.rit.edu
Rochester Institute of Technology	rutgers!rochester!rit!kar
From: ecldco@ultb.isc.rit.edu (E.C. Loyd)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Is EOS 28-105 USM much better than 35-105 USM lens?
Date: 15 Dec 92 16:57:55 GMT
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Originator: ecldco@ultb

In article <1992Dec15.155620.17767@spider.co.uk> mikec@spider.co.uk (Mike Coren) writes:
>In article <1992Dec12.011901.9252@news.mentorg.com> arora@arora.mentorg.com (Arora Amitabh @ PCB x3080) writes:
>>
>>What is a parfocal lens ?
>
>A parfocal zoom lens is one in which you can focus it for one focal length,
>then change the focal length without having to refocus.  On manual focus
>zoom this is a nice feature since you can zoom in to the full magnification
>of the lens, focus, then zoom back out to frame your shot.

And the Sigma 75-200mm that I have is one of these.  It's a nice feature.


-- 
Eric C. Loyd                            ecldco@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
ISC/Data Center Operations              Phone: (716) 475-7320
Rochester Institute of Technology       FAX:   (716) 475-5306
Rochester, NY  14623  USA               All-In-One: LOYD EC (@a1.isc.rit.edu)
From: myhui@bnr.ca (Michael Hui)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Slide projector advice sought
Date: 12 Dec 92 22:50:13 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa, Canada

Could someone knowledgeable about slide projectors post some advice on
the net on which models and brands offer the highest optical quality?
This is strictly for leisurely home use, where optical quality is of
utmost importance, and second importance is of course how cool the
machine keeps the film. :-)

A quick look through the local used equipment stores reveal mostly
beat-up Kodak units. I believe a long time ago Leica made these
machines. Perhaps they still do.

Also, rather than a silver screen with a stand and roller at the
bottom, I can make do with just the screen itself, carefully mounted on
a wall. Has anyone seen such a thing? I guess in professional
applications (i.e. movie theatres !) this must be really common.
-- 
Michael MY Hui  ~{PmCw6w~}  myhui@bnr.ca  Ottawa Canada