HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: damong@wpi.WPI.EDU (Damon F. Gentile)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How hot can an exhaust manifold get ?
Date: 22 Jan 1993 18:35:29 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu
Summary: my 2c worth...

In article <1993Jan20.011647.9159@jpradley.jpr.com> adykes@jpradley.jpr.com (Al Dykes) writes:
>A friend just bought a used (70k miles) 1984 turbo volvo and has had 
>it for a while. It seems to run fine.  
>>He recently opened the hood after dark, for the first time and 
>notices that the exhaust manifold between the block and the turbo 
>was glowing dull red.   
>The temp gauge seems to read ok, only a slight rise after a long uphill
>climb at speed. 
>Is the glow normal ?

Well I have a '74 Fiat X1/9, and after about 10 minutes of idling,
enough to get the engine warm enough to run comfortably (about
halfway on the temp gauge, call it 190o ) the exhust manifold was glowing
_bright_ cherry red, about the same color as burning embers...

Not to say that my Fiat is normal, just that you aren't alone ;)

Damon
From: jhh@sprite.berkeley.edu (John H. Hartman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: valve noise advice
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Date: 27 Jan 1993 21:19:24 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: loiter.berkeley.edu

Having received sage advice from the net on many occasions I thought
I'd relate my experience with a valve noise. Perhaps this will be
useful to someone. I have a Ford 390 motor that recently developed
a ticking noise in the valve train somewhere. I could tell it was
in the valves, rather than in the bottom end of the motor, because
it ticked at half the engine speed. The ticking noise would go away
at idle, but was very noticable at higher RPM. The consensus of
the net was a bad lifter. I tested the lifters by starting the car
with the valve covers off (and with tin-foil over the oil holes on
the rocker arms to prevent oil from flinging around the neighborhood).
I then pushed down on the pushrod end of the rocker arms with a
dowel, the theory being that the bad lifter would make more noise.
No such luck. I then removed the pushrods and rolled them across
my kitchen counter and discovered that one was bent. The ticking
noise didn't go away when I replaced it, however (bummer). So I
replaced all the lifters. This isn't an easy task on the Ford FE
series because you have to pull the intake manifold which ways
about a ton.  The noise still didn't go away. Off to the repair
shop for the first time in my life. They determined that I had a
bad valve guide.  Sure enough I could grab onto the end of the
valve and wiggle it around, whereas the other valves wouldn't budge.
This was the same valve that had the bent pushrod. Also, I could
hear exhaust gases leaking up past the valve. Once I got the head
off I could see that the valve seat was all munged up as well,
probably a result of the guide failure.  The moral of this story
is that worn valve guides can cause noise in the valve train. Before
you do anything drastic with the car, like replace the lifters or
take it to a mechanic, check that you can't wiggle one valve more
than the others.

John

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
John H. Hartman				
Graduate Student, UCB Sprite project	
jhh@sprite.berkeley.edu
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Not a bra
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:35:49 GMT
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.

In article <C1Gtn3.5yr@ssesco.com> nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
>Ok, here's my case (may this should be in rec.autos, but I'm here anyway).
>I drive my 1992 Probe into the city every day.  Sand and shit on the road
>gets kicked up and beats the hell out of the front my my car.  I do not
>want to put a bra on the car and I sure don't want to restart that old
>argument about bras.  I am interested in other, possibly less effective,
>methods of protecting the front of my car.  I would like to keep the
>dollar amount at a minimum (eg something that I could do myself).  Before
>anyone suggest that I change my driving habits, I can't.  You can also
>tell me to grit my teeth and bear it (these are all arguments that I've
>seen in the bra threads).  Well, that's kinda the default isn't it?
>
>-- 
>William R. Nau
>Supercomputer Systems Engineering and Services Company (SSESCO)
>511 11th Avenue South, Suite 216
>Minneapolis, Minnesota 55415-1536
>(612) 342-0003
>
>nau@SSESCO.com

get a 'beater' car to drive every day to work (especially in the winter
when there's soooo much yuk on the raods)

or use mass transit and get out of the driving hassle entirely

(a former Minnesotan .... B-)    )

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aldridge@netcom.com (Jacquelyn Aldridge)
Subject: Re: Water, Rabbit LS
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 00:19:38 GMT

	I forgot to say, it's a Rabbit LS with fuel ignition system. 1983.
-jackie-

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alves@gaul.csd.uwo.ca (ToM aLVeS)
Subject: Opinions regarding Saturn SL1?
Organization: Computer Science Dept., Univ. of Western Ontario, London, Canada
Distribution: World
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 16:38:18 GMT

Greetings!

   I am presently considering the purchase of a '93 Saturn SL1 and am
insterested in hearing from anyone out there who has purchased a Saturn, 
whether or not you are happy with it.  I'm looking for an economical and
reliable highway car and would like to hear how these cars are standing up
to everyday driving.  My other choice would be a '93 Golf.
E-mailed replies would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks to all in advance.

Tom
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Alves, Compsci Undergrad, UWO, London, Canada
alves@csd.uwo.ca
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hongbin@leland.Stanford.EDU (Hongbin Isaac Liu)
Subject: Advance timing/increase fuel economy
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 03:25:09 GMT

Someone in this newsgroup mentioned to advance the timing in order to
increase the fuel economy for high mileage car. i don't know why this is
true, and if it's true, is it going to cause potential damage to the timing
belt or the engine pistons? Any reply will be appreciated.
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Inspection info requested
Date: 22 Jan 1993 15:09:49 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

lusky@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky) writes:
>In article <1jmu56INNm58@bigboote.WPI.EDU> damong@vole.WPI.EDU (Damon'Fiat'Gentile) writes:
>>Hi all I was wondering what it took for a car to pass emissions requirements
>>in Mass or New Hampshire.   The car I have in mind is a 74 ( no clean air
>>needed in Mass, don't know about NH.)

The DMV for the appropriate state would work.  They should know and if
they don't they certainly will know who to ask.

For what it's worth, vehicles over 15 years old don't need to pass
emissions requirements in MA (unless they've changed the law recently)
and I don't recall emissions being a big deal in NH in any case --
they're more concerned with your brakes working and your bumpers being
intact.  I like NH because they're practical about their car safety.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated gas
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 21:17:22 EST

In article <C1FFDM.738@athena.cs.uga.edu> john writes:
>Sorry to be bringing up an old subject, but I'm new to the net and
>I missed all but the very end of the conversation.  About all I've 
>been able to piece together is that oxygenated gas is seasonal, it
>causes poor gas mileage, and it produces less harmful emissions.  
>I was wondering if somebody could answer a few questions about it.
>
>   1) When/how long is it used in what parts of the country?
 
     In the NY, it's from October to April.

>   2) On the average, how much does it reduce emissions?  Is
>      this enough to counteract the increased fuel usage caused
>      by poor mileage?
   
       Fuel Injected cars seem to notice very little.  About 1-2 MPG
on FI systems.  Carb'd cars vary from 1-5 MPG.   And no, IMHO, the
lowered MPG does NOT make up for the gain in emissions.   

>   3) Do the magnetic "power booster" things that clip on to
>      fuel lines work as well with oxygenated gas?  (I can't
>      recall any brand names of these products, but basically
>      what they do is restore some positve charge to fuel.
>      Apparently negatively charged fuel is safer to transport.)

       They work as well as those hi-performance muffler bearings for
$30 a pair. 8*>.

>Please don't "flame" me.  Like I said, I'm new to the net, and like
>most new people I don't really know what I'm talking about.
>
>Thanks,
> john

                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sew@philabs.philips.com (Scott E. Wakeman)
Subject: Re: When waxing car, paint comes off.
Originator: sew@condor
Reply-To: sew@philabs.philips.com (Scott E. Wakeman)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:11:19 GMT


In article <1993Jan27.191913.2379@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com>, sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund) writes:
|> In article <1k6d0pINNmdb@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> ktong@shannon.jpl.nasa.gov (Kevin Tong) writes:
|> >
|> >I have a red 87 Honda Prelude.  
|> >
|> >Now, when I apply wax with a white wax applicator, the
|> >applicator has a light red color, indicating paint coming
|> >off.  The paint still seems like its in good condition,
|> >but is not "glass" smooth.  BTW I was applying Finish 2001 wax.
|> >
|> >What is wrong with the paint?  
|> 
|> nothing - you're taking off oxidization
|> 
|> >Is this normal? 
|> 
|> yes
|> 
|> >If not, what can I do to prevent further deterioration.
|> 
|> keep using the wax and possibly a good rubbing compound in between - both
|> will help keep down the oxidization and keep your paint looking better &
|> newer for longer
|> 
|> if you don't do this your paint will eventually get dull and whitish looking
|> 
|> this is what 'detailers' do & get good money....

  Finish 2001 is actually not a very good wax for cars. I personally
  would recommend a good cleaner-wax such as Mothers Cleaner wax. This
  has cleaners in it that aren't as harsh on the finish as Finish 2001.

  Follow this with a good sealer/wax. 

  what ever you do ... don't use rubbing compound. This stuff should
  really be used in drastic cases. Instead, use a polishing compound.
  This is much milder than a rubbing compound.


  For oxidation removal I recommend Black Magic mild formula. 

  This is what I do and get good money . . . 
***********************************************************************
scott  e. wakeman                   *     standard disclaimer ...
email   sew@philabs.philips.com     *
***********************************************************************
                           Imagine Whirled Peas
***********************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: flower@donald.etdesg.trw.com (Rick Flower)
Subject: Re: Oil pump prob. w/ 300Z
Summary: Sender Oil Pump
Organization: TRW Inc., Redondo Beach, CA
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 00:44:22 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.145417.1@vf.jsc.nasa.gov> burleson@vf.jsc.nasa.gov writes:
>I have a 85 Nissan 300ZX and am experiencing a problem that I believe is 
>related to the oil pump.  After the engine has reached its normal operating
>temperature at idle RPMs (1100) the oil pressure drops from its normal 45
>to about 25 lbs/sq.in.  When the RPMs are around 2000 or greater the oil 
>pressure is in its normally acceptable range.  Are these the symptoms of an
>oil pump that needs to be replaced?  

Hmm.. kinda sounds like a problem that is similar to mine!  I'd be willing
to bet (but don't take my word on this) that it is your oil pressure sender
that is wearing out!  I've got an 84 300ZX Turbo, that goes through the
sender units about once a year!  With them being in the $45 price range,
that ain't exactly cheap!  However, the last one I put in was an aftermarket
part, and it is just starting to mis-behave on me..  I noticed the other day
that after I started up the car (fully warmed up), the oil pressure didn't
indicate ANYTHING!!  The idiot light came on and just sat there for about
30 seconds.. then the pressure came up to the regular level (which I might
add for my car is about 20 lbs/sq.in when idling, and not more than 45 on
the freeway (kinda strange!)..  I hope that this helped you.. 

>
>Thanks in advance for any info.
>
>Terry Burleson -- burleson@vf.jsc.nasa.gov

-- Rick

-- 
+---------------------+-------------------------------------------------------+
|      Available      | Internet Addr: flower@donald.etdesg.TRW.COM or        |
|      for Lease      |                rickf@theweav.cts.com                  |
+---------------------+-------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: windshield wipers
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 20:27:28 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.160229.19212@colorado.edu> bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman) writes:
>In article <1993Jan26.055442.2348@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>>	Try the Bosch wipers. Expensive, but worth it. Avoid by all means the triple-edge
>>stuff advertised on TV. They are a rippoff IMHO.
>>
>>Christos.
>      I'd kill for GOOD wiper blades. I've never seen Bosch wipers.
>    Where do you get them ?
>

	Try some import auto parts stores, especially for German cars. Or look for
authorized Bosch service centers and ask if they carry them. They are about $8.50
each but in the future you can buy only the blades for about $8.50 a pair.
If you can't find them (which I doubt) call European Car Parts here in St. Louis
(314) 781-8086 and ask if they do mail-order.

Christos.
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Sunbird a la 400ci)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevy small block ID???
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:24:07 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <1993Jan19.111014.711@newstand.syr.edu> ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine) writes:
>________________________________________________________________________
>\ The name:            -->   Bob Valentine  <--                        /
>/ The address:      --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--                   \ 
>\                                                                      /
>/ The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- \
>\______________________________________________________________________/    
>    

Sounds intense.  I'm driving a Sunbird (yes, a SUNbird) w/ 400/TH400/alas
no posi, yet.
 -----------Visit the SOUNDING BOARD BBS 214-596-2915, a Wildcat! BBS--------
 ObQuotes:
 "Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand..."
 "Ignorance and prejudice, and fear go hand-in-hand..."

    Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nick@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Nick Leiterman)
Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
Organization: Boeing Computer Services
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 16:42:24 GMT

Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744 (pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu) wrote:
   : My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the 
   : meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice.  Teh front of the vehicle 
   : is about 15" under water/ice, the rear - well - his 31" tires barely 
   : stick out of the ice.  The ice is only 1/2" thick, but still enough to 
   : keep the thing in there.  Yesterday we pulled only very lightly and tore 
   : his bumper off - oops.  Now: what is a smarter approach?  We are 
   : thinking of first using a sledgehammer to crush the ice, then pull with 
   : two trucks.  Is there a smarter approach?  There is no way to get a 
   : tow-truck near this, by the way.  almost got my Toyota stuck just going 
   : there....

   : Any seasoned four-wheelers out there?

Find someone with a winch, if you can't, some equipment rental places
will rent you a come-along.  When I had to unstick my truck I rented a
6 ton come-along, It could only pull about 5 feet at a time but it worked.
after this experience I bought a winch.

The slegde hammer thing sounds like a good idea.  

-- 
     Nick Leiterman, Kent Washington
     nick@bcstec.boeing.com
     
     "International Harvester, anything else is just a car"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ulan@ee.ualberta.ca (Dale Ulan)
Subject: GM ignition control on 1992 GMC 2500
Reply-To: ulan@ee.ualberta.ca (Dale Ulan)
Organization: University of Alberta Electrical Engineering
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 02:27:07 GMT


I am looking for information on controlling the spark timing of
a 1992 GMC 2500 with a GM 350 engine. This is part of a natural gas
conversion that has the capability of controlling spark curve. We
are planning on using a custom controller and are looking at
how to control the spark. If it is a normal GM HEI electronic-control
distributor, has anyone curved out the advance characteristics
of it? If it is a fancy distributorless ignition or something else,
any information would be appreciated.
If anyone has information on the sensor characteristics used on
that engine, I would also appreciate it. This is especially true
for temperature sensors.
There is actually a reason why we simply cannot re-calibrate the
GM ECU, however, in case any of our competitors are reading, I'm
not going to say what that reason is.... :-)

We know the vehicle that we will be working on, but we don't have
one here just yet. I'd like to get a start on programming soon.

------
Dale Ulan    VE6DAU      ulan@ee.ualberta.ca  Computer Eng. Undergrad.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: xhan@uceng.uc.edu (Xiaoping Han)
Subject: Help: 89 Stanza GXE engin (exaust?) noise
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 20:58:45 GMT

Hello everyone,
  Recently I bought a 89 Nissan Stanza w/ 90k mile. It runs fine except
when over 60mph (3,000rpm) the engin buzzes, like there is a hole
on exaust pipe. I can't find any hole on either muffler or pipe
and it's very quiet under 40mph. Different gas makes no difference.
There is no viberation can be felt, too. BTW it has a 4 cyl 2.0,
EFI, 8 spark plugs. Please help me find the problem (or no problem
at all?).

Thank you very much.

Han.
From: eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Castrol Syntec???
Date: 28 Jan 1993 04:35:10 GMT
Organization: clearer than blir
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: stalfos.engr.washington.edu

In article <1993Jan27.004810.2476@spdcc.com> jin@spdcc.com (Jerry Natowitz) writes:
>One month ago, falling for the ad campaigns (and Castrol's good ratings
>in Consumer Reports), I bought 5 quarts and an oil filter and changed
>my oil to Syntec.  As an aside, which may be relevent, the oil filter
>had a bad gasket and leaked about a quart before I got another.

>Now, barely 5 weeks later, the oil is filthy black.  I usually never see
>the oil so dark, I change it when it is dark brown, about 2, 1500 mile
>months.

i am on my first sumpful on my Audi V8.  it takes 8 1/2 quarts of oil
(ouch!!)  [used to take 10, but the factory revised it].  contrary to
what you are experiencing, the syntec in my car did not even start to
get dark until i passed 3000 miles.  i am at 4000 now and it is dark,
but not black.  it looks so good that i think i will keep it in there
till 7500 (with an intermediate filter change).  the dinosaur oil
would get dark around 2500.

no oil pressure problems either, and its low friction on cold mornings
is to me its biggest win.  i will be using this stuff again.

eliot
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Poor Economy--318 Mopar
Date: 22 Jan 1993 17:24:41 GMT
Organization: Ford Motor Company Research Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: slee02.srl.ford.com
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

I tried to e-mail, but it bounced...

I don't know the specifics of your car, but considering the
circumstances, chances are that it is related to fuel and/or
spark control.  You said the computer started acting up; does
this computer control the carburetor too?  If the car is running
rich at all, that can really hurt fuel economy.  I assume that
you are using the computer for the new engine, not the old
one! :^)

Also, I don't know how the switch to breaker points was done,
but retarded ignition timing has a big effect, too.  And I'm
talking about actual highway cruising ignition timing, not idle.
And you also need more spark advance when the engine is running
EGR.  Was the new ignition system designed for the same EGR
system as the engine?  

For that matter, EGR helps fuel economy, too.  Was it removed
or disabled before the engine was installed?

If you e-mail me more info, I'd be glad to help if I can.

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech