HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt

In rec.motorcycles.dirt, dunne@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Dunne) writes:

>    Frame carrying oil?  I don' understan'.

It's a dry sump engine.  The frame tubes are used as the oil reservoir.
Dry sump engines are a little more efficient since the internal moving
parts of the engine don't have to do a lot of meaningless splashing around.
The dry sump engine will also run somewhat cooler. 

>    Yeah buddy.  I'm embarrased by your maintenance tales.  I haven't
>    done any work on the rides in a while.  This is summer if you

Heh, heh.  It'll catch up with you sooner or later.  Unless of course,
you're a CSM (Christian Scientist Motorcyclist :-)  It seems like when 
everything starts falling apart, it all happens at once.  Over the last 15
years, I've only been stranded on the trail once. 

I would estimate that I spend at least one hour maintenance time for every 
two hours that I ride.  Whenever something breaks thru normal use (i.e. not 
major operator error),I'll look it over and engineer something better.  I 
tested my clutch cable bracket last weekend and it seems to work well.  

mcclend@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com Mike McClendon writes: 

>Swing arm Zerks (grease fittings) are easily broken by the smallest bump on
>rocks or logs.  Then you have to hope a) no serious grit got in there, and
>b) you can EZ-out the remains of the Zerk shell.  So on the most vulnerable
>Zerks, after pumping the grease pull off the Zerks and plug the hole with a
>plain 6mm hex-head bolt.

Thanks!  This is good advice.  I've sheared a few of these in the past.  
Another good way to break them is by pulling the bike off the trailer
without a ramp.  

kenm@array.com Ken Murphy writes: 

>One note of caution on these type (enclosure) of hand guards.  Several of
>my friends have broken their wrists with OTB manuevers.  I've seen some folk
>cut slits in them so that they will bend outward when pressed from inside.

Yeah, I've bruised the back of my hands a few times getting off.  I'll try
cutting slits in them, just in case.  I've already cut the bottom two 
inches off of each guard.  Otherwise they bang into my knees on tight turns. 

-Jeff Deeney-  KotD #0000  DoD#0498    NCTR    '88 XR600-Shamu   
jld@hpfcla.fc.hp.com       AMA#540813  COHVCO  '81 CB750F-Llamaha 
We don't stop riding because we get old, we get old because we stop riding.
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com (Dances With Bikers)
Subject: Re: Wrist/Elbow/Knee Protectors
Reply-To: blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 01:17:01 GMT

kenm@array.com (Ken Murphy) writes:

>The best (IMHO) elbow guards are not being made any more.  Thor (and Hallman) used 
>to make some that were plastic and hinged in the elbow joint.

Funny, when I asked about dirt armor a year or so ago, everyone seemed
hate this model. The hinge was supposed to bind a lot as I remember.

I wound up getting the current THOR plastic/foam model, it's lightweight,
and seems like it should be better protection that the foam-only type,
but I haven't had the misfortune to test them yet. A word of warning,
the plastic is not as soft and flexible as you might think. About the
first thing I did with mine after I got them out of the box was to grab
one and give it a good flex at the elbow joint.  CRACK!   Damn!   I used
a couple of wire ties to put it back together, and it seems to work, but
better to not break them in the first place!
-- 
Blaine Gardner @ Evans & Sutherland  blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com  BIX:blaine_g
580 Arapeen Drive, SLC, Utah 84108           Favorite road signs:
Dumper of Dirtbikes #46             FJ1200   Winding Road Next 77 Miles
My other motorcycle is a Quadracer           Caution: Passing Areas Not Marked
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: pams@triton.unm.edu (Roost)
Subject: Re: preferred support vehicles
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 92 16:02:24 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <Btx48A.Mr6@cup.hp.com> Chris Steinbroner <hesh@cup.hp.com> writes:
>
>imagine you had a bunch of money (we can dream, can't we?)
>and you wanted to get your ideal dirt bike support vehicle
>and towing rig.  just what would that be?
>
>would you want a 4WD vehicle with trailer?  a van with trailer?
>a van without trailer (put bikes inside)?  4WD pickup (put bikes
>in pickup)?  2WD?  etc.
>

My choice would be an extended cab 4WD truck (at least a six cylinder) with a 
shell on the back pulling a trailer.  You can carry all of your tools, gear,
etc. etc. in the back of the truck and put the bikes on a nice lightweight 
trailer.
Another good option is a truck and an enclosed trailer.  Whatever you
purchase, might I suggest a fair share of locks and alarm devices. . .
Some people would just love a new dirtbike or some new tools!
                                                                 1991 XR-600
[_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*]
      ___	       _     David P. Lawrence
     /   )            //     Computer Engineer  BDM International, Inc.
    /   /  __     . _(/	     Albuquerque, New Mexico
   /__/(__(_(_\/_/_(_)\_	"The meek will inherit the earth. . .
                                 The rest of us will go to the stars!"  OMNI
[*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*][*][_*]
From: tim@intrepid.gsfc.nasa.gov (Tim Seiss)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: Moose Flywheel mod
Keywords: All rev'ed up and going, "NOT"
Date: 28 Aug 92 13:46:04 GMT
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center

In Message-ID: <l9qektINNf3j@male.EBay.Sun.COM>,
 checksix@flyboy.EBay.Sun.COM (Al Conte) writes:

>The trails up here in Hollister are at the mega slick point in their
>yearly life cycle change.
>.I'm getting tired of turning up the wick on my CR 500, and  finding that
>I am moving forwards SLOWLY while disolving a good tire.
>Someone mentioned to me about installing a Moose flywheel to make my 
>scoot more tractable.
>Has anyone gone through this application yet?

  Can't say enough good things about this mod!  I started out as a trials
rider 20 years ago, sticking with it long enough to make expert.  Then
I got bit by the 'go-fast' bug after winning trophies on my Montesa Cota
348 in Open B class in local Hare Scrambles.  The trials bike's luggability
easily got me through woods nasties that Maico's, Husky's, Pursang's etc
just spinned out on...kind of insulted those guys, you know, after all,
trials riders were just weenies that couldn't really ride a motorcycle,
weren't they?

  At any rate, when I got a used 250 Penton, the first thing I did was
trade the entire Motoplat ignition for one from a 400 Penton since the
bigger bike had a substantially bigger flywheel.  They work...

  I had a Moose flywheel for my '88 CR250, also the first thing I did to
it.  The Moose weight is welded on and doesn't come off.  I have a bolt
on Steahly weight now on my '89 KX250, and yes, it *did* come off.
Fortunately, the only fatality to the bike was a ruined ignition case
cover; it was only $15 to replace.

  I would go for the Moose weight instead of one of the bolt-ons for two
reasons:

  1)  Its welded, balanced by Moose, and won't come off

  2)  The Moose weight is a solid ring attached to the perimeter of
      the existing flywheel.  The bolt-ons are disks attached to the
      face of the flywheel.  If the weights of the flywheels are
      equal (which they usually are), the Moose design puts more of
      the rotating mass away from the crankshaft, increasing the 
      flywheel inertia.  The bolt-on design places some of the mass
      close to the crankshafts' axis of rotation, and doesn't have
      any effect at all.

  Don't worry about losing any engine with a flywheel weight, you've
got plenty already, and it's not doing you any good if the back tire
is spinning...


Tim Seiss
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: couyant@convex.com (George Couyant)
Subject: Re: Sitting Down
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 00:04:56 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

> From: mcclend@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Mike McClendon)
> Subject: Re: Sitting down
> 
	Oh well, I started it, so I guess I'm fair game now....

> My Kiwi friend says this:
> 
[....some old blonde jokes, but cleverly disguised as Aussie jokes...]

> Q:  Where do you find pretty women in Oz?
> 
> A:  No one knows . . .

	Now this one got me thinking (yea, it hurts a bit on a Monday 
	morning)...Just what is others' perception of Aussie women? 

	I know that everyone thinks of Aussie men as being big, strong
	verile, highly intelligent but still boyish, witty, tanned,
	sincere, great with women and that they like a beer...Well, it's
	not all true...we aren't so tanned any more 'cause it causes
	skin cancer....

	And what's all this to do with dirt bikes? Well, sweet fuck all
	really...except for the fact that when there's a nice bird around,
	we (male) dirt bikers usually put our brains into our back pockets 
	and generally make fools of ourselves on the track....

	I am kind of interested though...

	Cheers
	George C.

Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: wardman@gandalf.ca (Russel Wardman)
Subject: Re: Moose Flywheel mod
Keywords: All rev'ed up and going, "NOT"
Organization: Gandalf Data Ltd.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 11:48:21 GMT

In <l9qektINNf3j@male.EBay.Sun.COM> checksix@flyboy.EBay.Sun.COM (Al Conte) writes:


>The trails up here in Hollister are at the mega slick point in their
>yearly life cycle change.
>I'm getting tired of turning up the wick on my CR 500, and  finding that
>I am moving forwards SLOWLY while disolving a good tire.
>Someone mentioned to me about installing a Moose flywheel to make my 
>scoot more tractable.
>Has anyone gone through this application yet?

Changing from aluminum to steel clutch plates will also help. It also
has the minor advantage of reducing oil contamination. I haven't tried
this on my kx 500 yet, but a friend who has was happy with the results.
 

>Al 

Russell

-- 
**         Russell Wardman         **      Gandalf Data Limited        **
**        Hardware Designer        **     Nepean, Ontario Canada       **
**    Network Components Group     **          613-723-6500            **
**  (rwardman@hobbit.gandalf.ca)   **                                  **
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: couyant@convex.com (George Couyant)
Subject: Re: Project XR600
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1992 07:10:27 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

> From: mcclend@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Mike McClendon)
> Subject: Re: Project XR600
> 
> 	>ignition timing 2 deg and run a one grade colder plug. There's no
> 	
> How?  Drill out and remount the pulse generator?  Do you think the PG could
> be made to rotate, then lock in place at whatever timing position is best --
> and would the performance gain justify the effort?

	The holes at the base of the coil are already slotted, so all you
	have to do is chip away the resin they use to lock the screws etc
	and loosen them. Move the coil and lock it back with new screws
	(just a safety precaution, but it's worth it for a few cents) and
	check the timing again. If it's ok, get some resin (electrical
	supply store) and paste it up much like you found it. Don't go too
	thick though because it's weaker.

	Most XR's and TT's can take a bit more advance over stock without
	pinging. They are usually tuned to run on 92 octane unleaded. Our
	leaded pump gas here is 97 octane (readily available at any
	station), so it's worth advancing the timing. It is free horse
	power after all...If you notice any pinging though, back the
	timing off. If you can see small silver deposits on the inner
	porcelain post in the spark plug, back the timing off again
	because you've got aluminium from the piston melting and depositing 
	itself on the plug. There's no quicker way of junking a motor. 

	On XR's you'll also find advancing will help eliminate that 
	momentary hesitation when you crack the throttle off idle...You know 
	the problem I mean....weaving your way up a tricky hill..the motor's
	hot...back off a bit...gas it to clear that step.....cough...stall.
	..oh shit...lose your balance and tumble back down the hill...
	everyone else laughs at ya and uses your fallen bike to help jump 
	that step.....but you get back at them at the next black, smelly bog 
	hole that little bush critters seem to love to die in.......
	BRRRAAAAPPPP splash..HA HA HA HA ....got ya!

> 
> >	The cheapest mod is to remove the choke butterfly...It made a heap
> 
> I would think the next cheapest for big returns would be changing to the
> high-compression piston, yes?

	Nup, I think that cam and head work will give you the noticeable 
	boost. A high comp. piston will make it run more efficiently, but
	won't give you much more hp. You're not letting it breathe any
	better...and XR's respond well to breathing mods.

	.....but while you have the head off, why not put a better piston
	in....
> 	
> >	arc welder....) and a big vice, you can make it no sweat. If you
> 	
> I don't know if I have a big vice, but my wife points out plenty of little
> ones . . 

	....and after a few years, all those little vices become big
	vices..

	Cheers
	George C.

Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: garyb@pdx015 (Gary Brown)
Subject: Re: Bomb Proofing XRs
Organization: Intel Corp., Hillsboro, Oregon
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 20:17:45 GMT

In article <124510113@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> jld@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jeff Deeney) writes:
>In rec.motorcycles.dirt, dunne@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Dunne) writes:
>
>>    Frame carrying oil?  I don' understan'.
>
>It's a dry sump engine.  The frame tubes are used as the oil reservoir.
>Dry sump engines are a little more efficient since the internal moving
>parts of the engine don't have to do a lot of meaningless splashing around.
>The dry sump engine will also run somewhat cooler. 

  Yes, it's not a new idea either.  My early 70s BSA B50mx carried oil in the
  frame, and I think BSA got the idea from earlier machines.

  Gary Brown
From: gumby@motoman.pnl.gov (Jim Barbuscia SE Richland WA.)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: New Bikes
Date: 31 Aug 92 22:48:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: oracle.1992Aug31.224837.9349
Reply-To: gumby@motoman.pnl.gov
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.


 Just thinking of upgrading to a 93' this year and I noticed
KTM has something competitive coming out (or so the mag say's)
this year.... Not that I'm a Japan Basher or anything like that
but I would like to give a Euro bike a try this time around, but
don't want to get stuck with a "Stink Bug" bike that isn't competitive
in the real world....
 Soooooo what I'd like is some feed back on this subject.

-jimb "91 RM250" and it's for sale!
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Subject: Re: Beginning Dirt Riding -- towing
Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc.
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 15:33:50 GMT

In article <1992Sep1.162351.13874@rtsg.mot.com> dunne@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Dunne) writes:
> ryang@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu writes:
>>	A '90 Plymouth Laser, sort of like a Mitsubishi Eclipse..  The owner's
>>manual has some kind of warning about not towing anything...  I assume it's
>>got to do with the frame geometry or something ?
>
>    Usually it's a weight restriction.  If you can keep gear and
>    trailer weight down, close to limits on the door sticker, you're
>    OK.  However, if you've got a turbo or supercharger, no way.  I
>    believe you will overwork & fry them if you tow excess weight, and
>    they ain't cheap to fix.  You might ask a dealer mechanic, and a
>    trailer shop to see if they stock hitches for it.

	I asked about the "turbo warning" on the hotrod mailing list a few
weeks ago, and I got some useful responses.  Bearing in mind that tractor-
trailers have been running turbos on their big diesels for quite some time and
that they often tow A LOT of weight, and that Dodge has a turbo diesel pickup,
you CAN tow with a turbo.  Bear the following in mind:

	o Get a pyrometer and a dash display to monitor the exhaust manifold
	  temperature.

	o Keep the exhaust manifold temp. down below something like 1400F.  Or
	  was it 1800F.  I don't remember.

	If you do those two things, you should not fry your turbo--just be
sure to let the car idle long enough to bring the manifold temp. down quite
a bit.  If you stay out of heavy boost, you can keep the manifold temp. down.

Be careful,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114   1983 Harley-Davidson FXWG Wide Glide (She lives!)
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	   (I need another bike for this space!)

Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC agree with any of this anyway?
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: hesh@cup.hp.com (Chris Steinbroner)
Subject: preferred support vehicles
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 21:12:10 GMT
Reply-To: Chris Steinbroner <hesh@cup.hp.com>
Organization: HP-UX Kernel Lab, Cupertino, CA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5


imagine you had a bunch of money (we can dream, can't we?)
and you wanted to get your ideal dirt bike support vehicle
and towing rig.  just what would that be?

would you want a 4WD vehicle with trailer?  a van with trailer?
a van without trailer (put bikes inside)?  4WD pickup (put bikes
in pickup)?  2WD?  etc.

consider this a somewhat serious request, as i may be in the
position of getting a vehicle (i'm cagerless), and i want it
to be chosen with dirt riding support as the primary criteria.
(baggin' the babes is secondary, as i already have one. :-)

thanks for any input,

-- hesh
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: dunne@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Dunne)
Subject: Re: preferred support vehicles
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 23:00:53 GMT

     I'd vote for van with trailer.  Lots of room for gear, or sleeping,
   and secure.  Sure, the bikes are out in the rain, but they're easily
   locked.  Maintaining the trailer's no fun tho, I have enough trouble
   with all the toys.  Oh yeah, you can bring along a smaller street bike
   too!

     Pickups don't look as big and goofy as some vans, but having all
   the gear exposed?  Packing two folks into a cab seems difficult.
   A good compromise -- a friend does well with a camper shell on his
   pickup.

     4 wheel drive... only if you're going offroad pretty far.

     Remember -- these tidbits from a guy with a 4 cylinder car :-)


     jed
  
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: jjb@dtc.hp.com (Jim Brewer)
Subject: Re: Moose Flywheel mod
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 20:17:44 GMT
Organization: HP Design Technology Center, Santa Clara, CA
Keywords: All rev'ed up and going, "NOT"

In article <l9qektINNf3j@male.EBay.Sun.COM> checksix@flyboy.EBay.Sun.COM writes:
>I'm getting tired of turning up the wick on my CR 500, and  finding that
>I am moving forwards SLOWLY while disolving a good tire.
>Someone mentioned to me about installing a Moose flywheel to make my 
>scoot more tractable.

  Something a little easier to install is a one tooth bigger countershaft
sprocket.  Cheaper too.

  Another suggestion is to ride elsewhere until the conditions improve.
From: greggl@key.amdahl.com (Gregg Lahti)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Re: Wrist/Elbow/Knee Protectors
Date: 27 Aug 92 00:06:36 GMT
Reply-To: greggl@key.amdahl.com
Organization: Amdahl Corporation

In article 8857@nas.nasa.gov, ciotti@wk42.nas.nasa.gov (Robert B. Ciotti) writes:
#>In article <1992Aug25.122519.613@skitzo.dseg.ti.com> frampton@skitzo.dseg.ti.com writes:
#>>>>So I went to the moto shops to check safety gear, and boy was I dissappointed.
#>>>>Nothing for wrists, the stuff for knees is either pathetically flimsy or
#>>>>an expensive orthopaedic contraption, and not much for elbows, either.
 

I've found the "Moto-X" version of elbow protectors is a waste of money.
A friend of mine clued me in to using "Rollerblade" elbow pads, available
at Target for about $14.95 a pair, comes in various sizes.  Cheap and very
efficient.  :^)

	-Gregg

---
=========================================================================
   Gregg Lahti                | Amdahl Corporation, Advanced Systems Div.
   greggl@key.amdahl.com      | 46525 Landing Parkway
   "More fun than humans are  | Fremont, CA 94538       
    supposed to have."        | (510)-623-2317
==========================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
From: ryang@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu (Robert H. Yang)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt
Subject: Beginning Dirt Riding
Date: 31 Aug 92 00:09:12 -0500
Reply-To: ryang@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Organization:  

Hi,

	I'm giving some thought to going dirt riding, and I wondered if
any of you had any opinions you'd like to share, on a few things :

   - While I would like a dirt machine, my car can't tow, so I'm
     thinking about a DP bike (although I know some folks with pickups).
     (Maybe it's not smart to go dirt riding alone and probably twice as
     dumb for a beginner ?)

   - Any recommended dirt instructional videos ?  (Like Keith Code's
     _Twist_ but for the dirt, I guess... :-)
     
   - Any opinions about XT350's (any year), or similar DP's ?  I've also
     heard people talk aboout DP's disparagingly as "not dirt enough for
     the dirt, not street enough for the street".  Also, what's a TW200 ?

     I understand the XT350 is a 4-stroke.  This does not impress me, but
     I guess new street 2-strokes have been illegal in the USA for a
     while now...

     Maybe a "dumpy 'ol DP" could serve as a ratbike, too... :-)

   - If I went for a dirt bike not a DP, I was thinking about something like
     an 80 or 125 cc two-stroke.  What do you think of RM's vs. CR's vs.
     KDX (KX?) 's vs. YZ's ?  Are these generally water or air cooled ?
     Any preferences or caveats ?

   - Does anyone here dirt ride in cold temps (below 40 or 50 for me) ?
     What do you wear ?  I wonder if frozen ground puts a damper on things...

   - How long do some of these 2-stroke thumpers usually last under nominal
     treatment by the average dweeb (meaning me) ?  I guess an engine
     rebuild is probably simpler than for a multicylinder streetbike,
     there being only 1 of everything...

   - I've got leather boots, ski goggles, and a ratty old street full-face.

     I figure I'll get some kind of body armor, armored gloves, real boots,
     knee/elbow protectors, and a real dirt-style helmet later on.  Do you
     think that wise ?  Maybe I should go for the gloves and armor now...

     Any other kind of protective/maintenance/accessory equipment sound
     like it might be good ?? (besides milk crate, butt pack,
     band-aids, etc :-)

Thanks for your flames^H^H^H^H^H^H opinions in advance.
--
Rob Yang (Pittsburgh, PA, U.S.A) RYANG@DRYCAS.CLUB.CC.CMU.EDU
'92 CBR600F2 (Hon) "It hisses on snakes." AMA 642916 DoD 0593
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.dirt