HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stecz@pencom.com (John Steczkowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Braking techniques
Date: 7 Jan 93 14:36:09 GMT
Reply-To: stecz@pencom.com
Organization: Pencom Software

In article <nathane-060193173506@mxi-q700.natinst.com>  
nathane@eagle.natinst.com (Nathan Ellsworth) writes:
> In article <1993Jan6.141232.1553@pencom.com>, stecz@pencom.com (John
> Steczkowski) wrote:
> > 
> > Who said you slip the clutch to engine brake? If you slip the clutch,  
you're  
> > doing it wrong.  You should match revs, i.e., when doing a 4 to 3  
downshift,  
> > put the clutch in, rev the engine to match the engine rpms, and the tire  
rpms,
> 
> 
> 
> I have always wondered how you match engine and tire rpms.  The tach shows
> the engine rpm.  Do you just do the math in your head to convert the speedo
> reading from mph to rpm?  Do you use your ears?
>   

The ears are a great driving tool, with them and a little practive rev matching  
is easy.  Now I need to start working on double clutching....


--
  John Steczkowski                        stecz@pencom.com
  "Achilles raised his spear, took careful aim, and hurled."
  					    from the Iliad
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: wolfson@regatta.sps.mot.com (Stephen Wolfson)
Subject: Additional Spray Stuff of Various Types - To Buy or Not?
Organization: SPS
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 23:06:06 GMT

As usual a dealer is trying to convince me of the value of his
miraculous ad on sprays (undercoating, paint sealer, and fabric
protector).  Do any of these have any value and what should I
pay for them?  I'm particularly concerned about paint sealant.  I know
its a popular item here in Arizona, supposedly help protect the car
from the heat/sun.  But the vehicle I'm looking at is one of the GM
Minivans (Pontiac Transport, Chevy Lumina APV) and they have composite
"plastic" body panels, and I would think there is a different type of
paint/chemical bonding process going on there that would make me
more leery of a standard spray of gunk.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Subject: Re: pop-up lights
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 22:34:30 GMT

In article <MUCIT.93Jan6160006@slate.cs.rochester.edu>, mucit@cs.rochester.edu (Bulent Murtezaoglu) writes:
> In article <63190@mimsy.umd.edu> hagger@cs.umd.edu (Paul Hagger) writes:
> [stuff deleted]
>>   I'd really like to see a maximum height requirement as well, forcing
>>   high-riding 4x4 types to stop blinding me from behind.  Maybe we
>>   could encourage some sort of pop-down headlight arrangement :-)
> 
> I was on 490 around 2am one night and one of those was 60ft behind me.  Just
> as I started mumbling obscenities, its driver turned the headlights off!
> When he/she took an exit a few miles later, the lights came back on so 
> I know it was courtesy not malfunction.  Has this happened to anyone else?
> 

There are height limits, but a jacked-up 4x4 usually meets these requirements.
It doesn't help if you drive an MR2 or the like.  If it's any consolation,
18 wheelers blind us just as we do you.  I have turned my lights off when I
see that it is annoying someone, but only at a traffic light, not while moving. 
I do have my lights aimed radically downward, but I'll be peeling the paint
off you car at a traffic light.  I do hate cars with misadjusted lights.

 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *    Of course I speak for: Fermilab, Congress and the President... NOT!!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jpmcmill@acs.ucalgary.ca (J.D. Paul McMillan)
Subject: Re: Mazda RX7: should I buy one?
Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 17:00:33 GMT
Distribution: austin
Organization: The University of Calgary, Alberta

>Even if you need to replace the engine, a short block is available from Mazda  
>from about $1200 (installed with warranty).  So engine replacements aren't bad.   

I still haven't found an engine for my beloved RX7 which is
sitting at dealer in the -20F frigid cold. Where do I get an
engine for $1200?

Learning the bus routes,
Paul.
From: nathane@eagle.natinst.com (Nathan Ellsworth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Braking techniques
Followup-To: rec.autos
Date: 6 Jan 1993 23:42:26 GMT
Organization: National Instruments
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: mxi-q700.natinst.com

In article <1993Jan6.141232.1553@pencom.com>, stecz@pencom.com (John
Steczkowski) wrote:
> 
> Who said you slip the clutch to engine brake? If you slip the clutch, you're  
> doing it wrong.  You should match revs, i.e., when doing a 4 to 3 downshift,  
> put the clutch in, rev the engine to match the engine rpms, and the tire rpms,



I have always wondered how you match engine and tire rpms.  The tach shows
the engine rpm.  Do you just do the math in your head to convert the speedo
reading from mph to rpm?  Do you use your ears?
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Before Buying Japanese.
Date: 7 Jan 1993 17:51:27 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

hhm@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (herschel.h.mayo) writes:
>> >3. They will narrow the wheel base so that the car will roll over 
>> >   more easily. 
>> 
>> .97g on the skid pad with these narrow wheel base cars (and narrow tires).
>> (93 RX-7)

>In a Suzuki Samurai?  Oh that's Japan Bashing right? Funny that all those people 
>claiming that the Samurai was not prone to roll over seemed to miss the fact that
>Suzuki dropped the Samurai, and next year introduced the Sidekick. A model that
>is virtually identical in all respects except one. It has a WIDER wheel base.

You're right that they replaced the Samurai with the Sidekick.  They
had no choice since the bad press destroyed the Samurai's reputation
regardless of whether or not the claims were founded in the truth.
You want to try selling that model after it's been publicly beat upon?

From what I remember their sales took a *tremendous* beating, and the
bad thing about the whole ordeal is that the Samurai was no more prone
to tipover than the Jeep Cherokee -- something which *nobody* bothered
to mention.  It would have been polite to at least test similar models
by other manufacturers to give a fair comparison, but all they did was
show that you could tip over the Samurai by throwing it into repeated
hard turns at 30mph.  No kidding -- you can tip almost any vehicle of
that type over that way.

Biased reporting damned the Samurai.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: bob1@cos.com (Bob Blackshaw)
Subject: Re: Saturn SL2: the REAL test drive..
Organization: Corporation for Open Systems
Distribution: na 
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 16:38:03 GMT

In <105948@bu.edu> heiser@acs.bu.edu (William Heiser) writes:

>In article <1993Jan3.075101.7673@athena.mit.edu> boo@athena.mit.edu (Christopher J Foley) writes:
>>105 mph indicated top speed.
>>cause I was actually dissapointed in that figure. 124Hp, 2600 pounds, very

>Everything I've heard about the Saturns tells me they were designed to be
>economical generic "family" cars,  Not sports cars...  Even more sporty-
>oriented cars like the Probe don't do much better than that, maybe 115 or
>120 or soemthing -- but how often can you realy drive that fast anyway? :-)

Actually, I've heard claims of 130 for the Probe. Never having enough
room on the Beltway, mine has never been over 95, so I can't vouch for
the 130 figure. However, at 80 it is only turning 3000 RPM and it does
not redline until 6000 RPM. I imagine there is no way that I could get
it any where near redline in top gear (160), so the 130 number seems
reasonable. Wish there was a stretch of road I could try it on.

Bob.




Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mark@wdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: AudiWatch Update (Tm) #8
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:38:18 GMT

In article <Jan07.011324.12511@engr.washington.edu>, eliot@stalfos.engr.washington.edu (eliot) writes:
|> >|> Toyota has been making four valve engines for their Corollas for
|> >|> YEARS before Volkswagen decided to get a brain fart of their own
|> >|> and make a four valve. 
|> 
|> >I guess I would like to hear what models and years of Corolla you
|> >are talking about that came "years" before VW even thought of it?
|> >Seems to me that the FX16 came after the Scirocco 16V.
|> 
|> toyota, back in the early 1980's owned a percentage of lotus, who had
|> four valve heads all over the place.  it was during this time that
|> toyota 4 valve heads started appearing.  i read somewhere that a lot
|> of lotus expertise was used, but i don't remember the source.  the
|> 16 valve corolla was available before the 16 valve scirocco, but i don't
|> know exactly when they started importing these into the u.s.  i test drove
|> a corolla 16v in asia sometime in 82 or 83.  

Now I am even less impressed with Toyota.  VW introduced their 16V 1.8L PL
engine into production in European GTi's in '85, but could not import it
until '86 in the Scirocco due to a limited supply of engines as the result
of a higher demand than expected.  Considering that it will take 2-3 years
to development, test, and emissions certify a new engine design; it sounds
like VW had the idea to go do this about the time that Toyota BOUGHT the
technology from Lotus.  

I think you comments regards the Japanese being technological superior are a
little overblown, wouldn't you say? 
 
|> it is amusing to note that during this time honda was a keen advocate
|> of the 3 valve head, designed mostly with good emissions in mind, but
|> then found out quickly that the number crazy public only cared who had
|> more valves regardless of whether it was better or not.  they finally
|> succumbed.  the motivation behind 4 valve heads used in the corolla
|> and camry is for good emissions performance rather than hot rod
|> performance.  that is a far less well known advantage of 4 valve
|> heads.

I think you have it reversed here.  The 4-valve engine does not impart any
special emissions value in closed-loop systems.  What it does do is burn
fuel more efficiently so that you can get the equivalent more power from
a smaller (and thus bascially less pollutant) engine.   The net effect may
be lower pollution for same power from a 4-valve versus a 2-valve.  If the
Corolla and Camby need 4-valves to meet emissions requirements, then their
fuel management system is lacking refinement.

I think you give the Japanese too much credit for things which they are
really only acquiring from others (Wankel license from NSU, 4-valve heads
from Lotus, and electronic fuel injection licensed by Nippondenso from Bosch).
Give them credit for manufacturing excellence, but let's not go overboard and
give them credit for every technological advance to show up in the world.

Mark
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jmh@Turing.ORG (Jeffrey M. Hoffmeister)
Subject: Re: AMIGO Information
Organization: The Turing Project, Public Access Internet Host
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 12:54:24 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.060332.3802@schbbs.mot.com> ACUS05@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Paul Anderson) writes:
>
>I have been looking at the smaller 4X4's for a runabout vehicle.  It
>will probably end up to be a vehicle left at the vacation home.
>
>Ever since it first came out, I have been intrigued by the looks of the
>Amigo.  I have yet to test drive one.
>
>If anyone has experiences, flames or whatever on the Amigo, I would
>appreciate them.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
The Amigo appears to be a FUN vehicle, about the only complaints I can
see is the fact that the only engine available is the 4 cylinder,
the truck would be alot more fun with an available V6 from either the 
Trooper or the Rodeo.  Also I'm not sure that Isuzu makes an available
hard top, which would be nice if you drive in any really cold weather.
The wheel base also seems a little short, but if all your looking for is 
a runabout vehicle this shouldn't present a problem.

My uncle has an older Trooper and absolutely loves it and has had
relatively few problems with it, the most rescent problem was a
frozen lug nut.

------
Jeff

jmh@turing.ORG

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: andrew@frip.WV.TEK.COM (Andrew Klossner)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Tricks for cold weather?
Date: 9 Jan 93 01:44:13 GMT
Reply-To: andrew@frip.wv.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix Color Printers, Wilsonville, Oregon

I've unstuck a door lock by blowing into it.  You have to shove your
mouth up against the door to get enough pressure.  Yes, this adds
humidity to the lock internals, but several breaths are usually enough
to get me in.

  -=- Andrew Klossner  (andrew@frip.wv.tek.com)
                       (uunet!tektronix!frip.WV.TEK!andrew)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: issa@cwis.unomaha.edu (Issa El-Hazin)
Subject: Re: Get a car heated in winter: How long is appropriate?
Keywords: Heating
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 03:50:59 GMT

rdu@iastate.edu (Runqing Du) writes:

>I own a 1990 Nissan Sentra-XE 2dr sedan. And I live in central Iowa.
>My car is always parked outdoor.

>My wife usually idles the car for 15-20 minutes in a cold winter morning, say
>0 degree Farenhite. But i think 7-8 minutes should be enough and excessive 
>idling will do harm to the engine. Would some guys please give me a
>professional answer to this question. Please email me or post in this network.

>BTW, how long should you heat your car at 10pm with previous driving being 
>around 4:30 pm?

My wife does the same (almost). She starts the car [626], comes in for 
breakfast, dry her hair, decide on what she wants to wear (can take up 
few hours) etc .. (kinda).  :)

From what I've read, the latest news on this is, you shouldn't warm up the
car [while parked] for more than a [very] few minutes. The car should warm 
up nicely while driving it. I'm not sure if the reason given was for gas 
economy, it's better for the engine, or both. Does anybody have more info 
on this?
I do know thou that you are not supposed to turn the heat on until the car 
warmeed up. 

I don't mind her doing that, I don't want her toes to freez, but I almost 
never warm up my car at idle. My car don't take more than 2 minutes to 
warm up. 

issa
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: nau@ssesco.com (William Nau)
Subject: Re: Car dealers
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:53:55 GMT

> Ford: Probe, dealer took copies of licenses, then rode i nthe back for a
> test drive around the block -- real informative.

Oh what the heck.  I'll do it as well.

Test drive a one year old T-Bird with a V8.  Not a bad car.  The salesdriod
kept asking me what it would take to get me to buy the car that same day.
I kept telling him that I wouldn't.  I do not buy cars on a whim.  Once
we were driving around in the car, he asked me again.  I told him the same.
He told me to head straight back to the dealership.  If I wasn't buying right
now, he wasn't going to let me test drive.  I ignored him and took the thing
onto the interstate and drove it hard.  He was pissed, but so was I.  Funny,
when we got back to the dealership, he handed me his card and told me to ask
for him.  Heh, right.

I walk into another dealership and start looking at a one year old Probe.
I'm young.  I must be stupid and believe whatever they tell me.  I drove
the car and was willing to talk $$$ with them.  Needless to say, we could
not agree on price.  They pulled out paperwork which explained how the
car had cost them $10,000 ($500 less than I paid for a new one).  I told
them they paid too much.  They would not come down past $9500 ($1000 less
than I paid new).  Apparently they were willing to take a loss to get me
as a customer.  They would leave me alone for an hour at a time.  They
would have other salesmen watch me.  I don't understand why, but they
wanted to know something.  Oddly enough, someone else sat at the very
next table and was trying to buy the same car.  Latter I saw the supposed
buyer playing darts in the breakroom.  How stupid do they think I am?
I'm young (24).  This was my first nearly new car.  I don't know all
of the tricks, but I'm not a complete moron.

What annoys me is that this was not an isolated case.  Nearly everywhere
I went, I was treated as if I were a moron.  I learn what the car should
cost.  I learn what I shoud pay.  They actually laugh at me.  They've 
yelled at me and latter ask me to come back.  They lie to me.  They show
me false documents.  They treat me like shit.  They can rot in hell.

Note: I did find one (just one) Mercury dealer that has not yet pissed
      me off.  Next time, they are my first stop.

-- 
William R. Nau
Supercomputer Systems Engineering and Services Company (SSESCO)
511 11th Avenue South, Suite 216
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55415-1536
(612) 342-0003

nau@SSESCO.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Help!! Toyota truck won't start
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 13:33:55 GMT

In <7740238@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> gregb@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Greg Begay) writes:


>My 1991 Toyota XCab 4x4 (4cyl - 15K milels) will randomly decide not 
>to start.  Symptoms vary from absolutly no response when I turn 
>the key to a spinning sound to a annoying grinding sound, with the
>grinding sound being the latest.  This has been happening 3-4 times 
>the last couple of months.  It has always started after several tries 
>or after left to sit for awhile.


>The truck as been acting up as described since I purchased it 1.5 years 
>ago.  Last summer the alternator belt went bad resulting in a screaching
>sound and all of the engine warning lights coming on in the dashboard.

>Any ideas on what the problem is??  A friend has suggested that the
>problem has to be related to the starter.  Any other Toyota owners
>with similar problems/experience??

Your starter relay is bad. Replace whole starter motor and relay with 
a junkyard one for $40. 
-- 
eur  eur@dutncp8.tn.tudelft.nl
--
eur  eur@dutncp8.tn.tudelft.nl
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: dbr2@cec2.wustl.edu (Dhruva Bollam Reddy)
Subject: Re: Question on Nissan Sentra : Engine Oil
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Distribution: usa
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 17:59:17 GMT

If coolant were leaking into the oil, I believe it would turn milky white--
not the black that you speak of (not that I have experience here).  You may
want to take a sample from your crankcase and have it analyzed.  I used to 
send mine to Farmland Industries in Kansas City, MO.  E-mail me if you want
the address.
		Dhruva
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: BKD@USLVM.USL.EDU (Brian K. Dore')
Subject: Miata Club of America
Organization: University of Southwestern Louisiana
Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1993 00:20:16 GMT

Does anyone have the address or phone number to join the Miata Club of
America?  Any other sources of information on the Miata would also
be appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Brian
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: READ THIS: HELP mustang GT wont start
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 19:28:39 GMT

In article <BzzM3o.K89@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
djr48312@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Dennis Robinson) writes:

>Today I was driving along in my used '89 mustang GT and it shut off.  This
>was after I was reaching under the seat for something and ended up with
>a strange plastic cap in my hand.

In article <1993Jan4.125813.26241@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov>
chu@hanauma.jpl.nasa.gov (Eugene Chu) writes:

>What you pulled up in your hand was the cover of the fuel pump relay.
>This little device may be gotten for around $30 from your local Ford dealer...

...and for about $5 from a junkyard, or $10 from an aftermarket place. Don't
let your Ford dealer dick you.

Also, it takes a lot to mess up a relay. Pull the relay out, and if you don't
know how it works, take it to an EE at your school who will. It's probably
not busted, and my guess is you've simply pulled it out of it's socket a
bit. Try pushing it in s'more, and replace that dust cap.

	-Kenny
-- 
Kenny Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	  Religion: The longest-running gag ever played on Mankind.
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: wilhelal@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Tony Wilhelm)
Subject: Re: What is the resonable oil comsumption?
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 04:06:44 GMT

In article <C0C0ov.1Ksp@austin.ibm.com> jnissen@austin.ibm.com () writes:
>
>In article <1992Dec30.154753.13635@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Mike.Oniffrey@launchpad.unc.edu (Mike Oniffrey) writes:
>> <gong@cbnewsc.cb.att.com> (jiechen.james.gong) writes:
>> 
>> 	I have a 68000 milse '86 190E/2.3.  It needs more than a
>> 	quart of oil between 3000 miles oil change.  The compres-
>> 	sion test showing the engine is still like new. What is the
>> 	your experience on the engine oil consumption for this car? 
>> 

Acording to a my Local Chevy dealer 1 quart/1000 miles is normal for all GM 
cars. I don't know about Mercedes.

My motorcycle doesn't use more than 1/2 quart in 3000 miles and the oil looks
almost as clean as what I'm putting back in. I have trouble reading my sight 
glass.

					Tony Wilhelm
					89 S-10 4.3L 
					86 Kaw. ZX1000 Ninja


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade)
Subject: Re: Tricks for cold weather?
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 14:26:15 GMT

In article <C0HvoE.CAp@tss.com> hanson@tss.com (Hanson Loo) writes:
>What's the best trick you've seen for keeping 
>locks from freezing in cold weather? I've 
>heard about squirting chemicals in the locks,
>but can't remember what chemical. My second
>question is what's the best trick for unfreezing
>them after they are frozen? We are experiencing
>some unusually cold weather at our ski areas and
>the best snow in years. Needless to say, I 
>experienced some of those lock problems last
>weekend. Thanks in advance.
>
>         Hanson 

i use a product called tri-flow.  it is a synthetic lubricant(i think it has
teflon in it).  just spray it in all door locks and latches when it is above
50 f and later when the temp drops to whatever you won't have any problems.

if the lock is already frozen try buying one of those small propane torches
that are self-igniting(when you push the button).  but be careful not to burn
the car paint.

Newsgroups: rec.autos