HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: raley.es_ae@xerox.com (Alex Raley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Looking for source of Erica Wilson Crewel Kits
Keywords: crewel
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:06:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: vine.1992Sep28.160612.25241
Organization: Xerox Corporation

Hi,

I have a friend who has been trying unsuccessfully to locate a source for
Erica Wilson crewel kits.  She lives in the South Bay area of Los Angeles,
so anything near there or mail order would be great.  Thanks in advance for
any suggestions you might have.

Alexandra

P.S.  If replying by e-mail, please use raley.es_ae@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: ilaine@panix.com (Liz Stokes)
Subject: Re: Washing Dirty Wool for Spinning
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 11:43:31 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <1992Sep25.161256.52379@gmuvax.gmu.edu> sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu writes:
>
>This is to all the spinners who seem to be appearing out there.
>
>I was unhappy with most wool washing techniques because they tended to
>take too much lanolin out of a fleece and I love to work with lanolin,
>due to my dry skin. So I came up with this method.

	I don't like to leave any lanolin in, because I am likely to keep the
wool for a long time before I get around to doing anything with it, and the
grease will eventually degrade the fiber. I scour wool with tallow soap I
made myself (rendered fat and lye) because it doesn't have any lotion or
perfume or whatnot, and I made it rather strong. When I'm actually ready to 
work on the wool, I add oil, then wash it out when setting the twist.
	-Liz


-- 
Liz Stokes         | 	Ilaine's E-Z Garb Workshop
Ilaine de Cameron  | 	Before you can spin the wool, you need to comb it.
                   | 	Use the combs with the 5 rows of 6" razor sharp spikes.
ilaine@panix.com   |    Don't drink and comb - trust me on this.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.misc
From: laurie@rtr.com (Laurie Moskow)
Subject: Natural fabrics by mail
Summary: Natural fabrics by mail
Keywords: natural,fabrics,mail-order,cotton
Organization: Ready-to-Run Software, Inc.
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 04:26:33 GMT


To the person who was looking for a mail-order source for natural fabrics,
I found the address of the company.  The last catalog I have from them
is from 1988, so I hope they're still in business.  I never did order from
them, so I don't know how their products or service are, but here's the
info:

           Sew Natural
           Route 1, Box 428-C
           Middlesex, NC 27557
           919-291-4137

Hope they're still around and have what you're looking for.

                       Laurie Moskow
                       laurie@rtr.com
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:1819 rec.crafts.misc:751
From: sallyh@StarConn.com (Sally Holmes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.misc
Subject: Re: Natural fabrics by mail
Keywords: natural,fabrics,mail-order,cotton
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:49:00 GMT
Organization: Starnet-Public Access UNIX--Los Altos, CA  415-949-3133

riggle@adobe.com (Kathleen Riggle) gives adresses of Sew Natural, Sewing
Sampler and Jennifer's Fabrics: I'm told that another good source of
knits is:
	Sew N Sew 
	24025 SE Highway #212
	Boring
	OR 97009

I haven't tried them yet.

Sally
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: MAHE@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu
Subject: Re: Easy, Safe Dyeing Recipes for Wool
Organization: Yale University
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 92 12:21:19 EDT

Thanks, Sue, for all this great spinning-related advice.  I'm a rank
beginner, but all this info might just get me away from the terminal
and to the dyeing pots...
I'm particularly pleased to see the Kool-Aid info, since it seems
to be the least toxic method to dye stuff for children.  I recall
seeing a long time ago (last year?) a posting on which flavors to
mix to obtain specific colors.  Did anyone happen to save it?
 
Marie-Christine
mahe-marie-christine@yale.edu
From: elada@eos.ncsu.edu (ERIC  LADA)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: ********
Date: 6 Oct 92 04:55:22 GMT
Reply-To: elada@eos.ncsu.edu (ERIC  LADA)
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Originator: elada@c00175-100lez.eos.ncsu.edu


	Does anyone out there know how to cook up kelvar?
	
-Just wondering?
	ME-
7NW17
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: dawyd@dorsai.com (David Gruzynski)
Subject: Re: Spinning
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy +1.718.729.5018
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 17:03:52 GMT

   Right now, if you are interested there is a mail list for Card Weavers
and its address is cw@envy.kwantlen.bc.ca.  There has also been some talk of other types of weaving as well.

-- 
David Gurzynski                            Brooklyn NY
Prodigy: KGHM08A  and davidg6642@aol.com
Baron Dawyd z Gury CS CSC           East/ Crown Province of Ostgardr
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: aviva@ultra.com (Aviva Garrett)
Subject: Re: Washing Dirty Wool for Spinning
Reply-To: aviva@ultra.com (Aviva Garrett)
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 92 20:36:47 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.025537.24093@terminator.cc.umich.edu> vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff) writes:
>Merino requires special care, I'm told.

Not more than any other kind of wool. Just make sure to minimize
any agitation while washing.

>Fill your washer with HOT water.  Put in 1/4 -- 1/3 cup Orvus for each pound
>of fleece.  

What I do to get HOT water is to add boiling water to the hot
water that comes out of the water heater. I fill my spaghetti
pot with water, boil it, and add it for the first washing.

I also do something rather heretical. As my soap, I use Tide
(really Tide with Bleach). It works great.

By the way, the fleeces I have washed using this method are
generally fine fleeces (25 microns and less).

..Aviva

-- 
Aviva Garrett
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
aviva@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!aviva  (408) 922-0100 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: ljensen@ferris.cray.com (Laura Jensen)
Subject: Re: Spinning projects
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: 6 Oct 92 12:45:29 CDT

In article <1992Oct6.164950.18670@terminator.cc.umich.edu> vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff) writes:
>Want to talk about what we are spinning?  
> ...nice Romney X fleece that's shades of gray...
>
>If I can borrow a wheel with a bigger bobbin, I won't
>have to have so many knots.....
>
You might want to look at Elizabeth Zimmerman's _Knitting Without Tears_
about how to deal with ending off yarn _without_ a knot. One idea for a
same-color change is to knit a stitch or two with both strands, and
then darn the ends in later.  (This works best with plain stockinette.)
The Kaffe Fasset book _Family Album_ contains a section on
how to make intarsia changes without knotting.  

Still, it's more fun to have a larger chunk of yarn to work with.
I have noticed that the really fine lace-weight spinners never fill
up their bobbins to get a consistent twist.  Have any of you had 
any experience with this?  
>
> What are y'all working on?
I am currently finishing up three pounds of Shetland fleece, 
it's in the grease but not leaving nearly as much dirt on the 
wheel as Churro does!  The Shetland is spinning up very fine, 
especially from the long shoulder fibers.  (I'm flicking the locks.)  
I'm hoping to get a lace shawl or two out of the yarn.  

This brings me to another question:  Do any of you have
hints for spinning for stretchy yarn?  In particular, a
Spin-Off article from a few years ago mentioned keeping the
fibers _under tension_ as the twist enters them.  Any ideas 
about how to do this?

Laura Jensen


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Subject: Re: Washing Dirty Wool for Spinning
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 23:48:18 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.103758.52412@gmuvax.gmu.edu> sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu writes:
>
>using a washing machine (I didn't always have access to one in the past.) 

It now occurs to me to mention my method for washing small amounts of wool
(several ounces).  I have a square of doubled nylon netting that's about
a yard square.  I put this in the kitchen sink, fill the sink with hot water,
put in a squirt of dish soap, and put in the wool.  I lift out the wool by
gathering up and lifting the nylon netting.  Then proceed with draining and
rinsing and all as in the machine.  This method works fine and is much 
quicker than the "lay out and wrap the locks in netting" approach.

I still use the machine to spin out the water at the very end, but if I didn't have one, I'd wrap the bundle of nylon and wool in a thick cotton towel and
squash it for a while so the cotton could take up a lot of the water....
From: ilaine@panix.com (Liz Stokes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Spinning
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:17:34 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC

In article <1992Oct5.190807.15995@ultra.com> aviva@ultra.com (Aviva Garrett) writes:
>In article <1992Oct1.125420.11355@newstand.syr.edu> dbsander@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Diane B Sanderson) writes:
>>I have carpal tunnel syndrome and am wondering if anyone else has this affliction and still does all the wonderful things with fabrics, fibers, etc. that my
>>heart still desires to do, but my hands often can't.  
>
>In spinning, the main parts of your body that move are your
>ankles (to treadle) and your fingers (to manipulate the fiber
>before the twist reaches it). You may find this latter movement
>very hard on your wrists.
	
	I'm not sure she will have a problem. The motion is repetitive, but
there is not jolt or stress like in typing. Also, if you spin long-draw, you
don't really move your wrists, but your whole arm.
			-Liz

-- 
Liz Stokes         | 	Ilaine's E-Z Garb Workshop
Ilaine de Cameron  | 	Before you can spin the wool, you need to comb it.
                   | 	Use the combs with the 5 rows of 6" razor sharp spikes.
ilaine@panix.com   |    Don't drink and comb - trust me on this.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: lah@Cadence.COM (Lin A. Hendrix)
Subject: Old style denim search
Reply-To: lah@cadence.com
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Distribution: ba
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 20:30:43 GMT

Hi out there in textile fanatic's land!

        I'm looking for a source of old style denim fabric, that
jeans used to be made from a long, long, time ago.

        No special blue dyes or stonewash or prewash.  I'd like
that stiff, unworkable, thick, indigo denim, hopefully from
a place that I can place quantity orders, hopefully local and
not Hong Kong or Taiwan.

        Thanks!


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++++ Your friendly midnite, manic, textile artist, lin hendrix +++++
+++++++++++++++++++++ lah@cadence.com +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: Marina.Salume@corp.sun.com (Marina Salume)
Subject: Reply to perrin@acadiu.ca
Organization: Cornell University, Ithaca NY
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:52:45 GMT


----- Begin Included Message -----

>From Mailer-Daemon@Sun.COM Tue Oct  6 09:59:01 1992
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 09:59:54 PDT
From: Mailer-Daemon@Sun.COM (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown
To: <Marina.Salume@Corp>
Content-Length: 1291

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
421 Host acadiu.ca not found for mailer ddn.
550 <Perrin@Acadiu.ca>... Host unknown
Sorry to bother everyone about this, but I tried to
reply to an email I received after I posted on
rec.crafts.textiles about a quilt show and sale,
but it bounced. Hopefully the person who sent mail
to me can contact me (I didn't save the original mail).
The email address below didn't work from my machine.

--marina

   ----- Unsent message follows -----
To: Perrin@Acadiu.ca
Subject: Re: N. CA exhibition & sale of antique quilts


Have you joined our Internet quilt block exchange group?
I believe people join who just want to "lurk", listening
to our quilt dialogues and sometimes asking questions.
But the most fun is to join the exchange and make a
block for a different person every month (and receive one,
too :-)

If you are interested, I can send you the name of the person
who can add you to the alias. It is an email alias, so it
only goes to those who request it. She also has more info
about the other members of the alias, how the exchange works,
etc. There are now about 150 members, I think. 

--marina


----- End Included Message -----
From: ilaine@panix.com (Liz Stokes)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Washing Dirty Wool for Spinning
Date: 3 Oct 92 12:47:28 GMT
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix & Internet, NYC


	If you don't have a washing machine, you can spin dry the wool by
'wuzzing'. Put the the wet wool in a fabric bag, tie the bag to a stick,
stand outside and whirl the bag as fast as you can. It works pretty well
(and it's period :)
			-Liz






-- 
Liz Stokes         | 	Ilaine's E-Z Garb Workshop
Ilaine de Cameron  | 	Before you can spin the wool, you need to comb it.
                   | 	Use the combs with the 5 rows of 6" razor sharp spikes.
ilaine@panix.com   |    Don't drink and comb - trust me on this.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.misc
From: laurie@rtr.com (Laurie Moskow)
Subject: Flightsuit pattern
Summary: Flightsuit pattern source?
Keywords: Flightsuit
Organization: Ready-to-Run Software, Inc.
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 04:33:05 GMT

To the person who was looking for a pattern for a flightsuit:

I sent you mail about the possibility of Daisy Kingdom, so maybe you've
already found what you need.  In picking over my collection of catalogs
recently, I came across another potential source.  The name of the
company is The Rainshed, and they carry a number of patterns for all
kinds of outdoor gear, as well as specialty fabrics and notions to make
them.  I've ordered from them a couple of times, and their merchandise and
service were great.  Give them a try if you're still looking!

           The Rainshed
           707 N.W. 11th
           Corvallis, OR 97330
           503-753-8900

Hope you read this -- I've forgotten your name and email address.  Good
luck again!

                  Laurie Moskow
                  laurie@rtr.com

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: anlan@med.unc.edu (Anne Landin)
Subject: Environment & sheep
Originator: anlan@maiden
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 12:50:06 GMT

Excuse me??  Sheep don't prefer to eat roots!  If the PEOPLE who own the
sheep didn't abuse the land by overstocking, then there would be no damage
to the land.  Any time land is over used - whether it be by animals or
people building too many SHOPPING CENTERS, it has trouble coming back.

Anne Landin
Owner of environmentally correct sheep.
From: hosken@spss.com (Bill Hosken)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: plans for loom
Date: 29 Sep 92 20:43:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: spss.1992Sep29.204344.12091
Organization: SPSS, Inc.

In article <1992Sep29.150617.136787@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu>, drt2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DONALD R. TRIPPEER) writes:
> I am trying to locate plans for a loom for my wife. Any size is O.K., however,
> she would like a larger one, if possible.  I would also appreciate any other
> source of info. on weaving.
> 
>                             Thanks,
> 
> 
>                             Don


I am similarly looking for loom plans.  I see an add in the latest Garret Wade
catalog for a loom.  They only cost $9.95, but before I spring for this
amount has any one built a loom from these plans? any advice?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: nvecchi@sangiorgio.cscs.ch (Nicole Vecchi)
Subject: Re: Quilting Frame
Followup-To: nvecchi@cscs.ch
Organization: Centro Svizzero di Calcolo Scientifico / CH-6928 Manno
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:53:39 GMT

I tried to send mail but it bounced so:
Cynthia,

I have a Q-snap frame that I use for small projects and finishing 
but I would never recommend buying a large one.  Yes, very handy
but the pieces that snap over the fabric will crack. 

I have a quilting frame (lugged it across the Atlantic with me!)
that was made by Heidelberg (I think that's the name). Looks to me
that if someone was a little handy with wood, it would be easy to 
make.  The only problem is the poles. Mine happen to be 88" so I can
make a decent size quilt, but it's the poles that allow you to make
larger and larger quilts. The idea of interchangeable poles appeals
to me and should be quite doable.

the way mine works is that you  scroll the sandwich between poles and
work in the area between the poles.  I think it's great.  Doesn't take
up lots of space and when you're not using it can be "collapsed" (except
for the poles of course! :-) ) As i recall, my heidelberg costed less than
$250

Good luck!
Nicole
From: lcasey@koko.csustan.edu (Linda Casey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Pineapple Bookmark
Date: 29 Sep 92 01:04:29 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

This is a very nice crocheted bookmark pattern from Kathryn Shipp on Prodigy.
For a very dainty bookmark use a finer crochet thread and make the shell tail
longer.

PINEAPPLE BOOKMARK

Size:  Approximately 9" long
Materials:  Bedspread weight crochet cotton, 25 yards
            Size 7 steel crochet hook

Gauge:  One shell (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) is 1/2"

Instructions: 

Beg with foundation ring, ch 8, join with a sl st to form a ring.

Ch 3, dc in ring, work (ch 3, 2dc in ring) 7 times;

ch 3, join with a sl st in top of beg ch 3;

  8 ch 3 sps (foundation ring completed).

DO NOT FINISH OFF

CONTINUE BY WORKING BACK AND FORTH IN ROWS AS FOLLOWS:

Row 1:  Ch 5, do not turn; work (2dc, ch 3, 2dc) in next ch 3 sp (shell made),

        work a shell in next ch 3 sp (leave remaining sps unworked).

Row 2:  Ch 5, turn; work a shell in sp of each shell.

Rows 3 through 14:  rep Row 2, 12 times.

Row 15:  Ch 5, turn; shell in sp of first shell, ch 5, shell in sp of next 

         shell.

Row 16:  Ch 5, turn; shell in sp of first shell, ch 2 work 9 trc in next

         ch 5 sp (for base of pineapple), ch 2, shell in sp of next shell.

Row 17:  Ch 5, turn; shell in sp of first shell, ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp,

         sc in first trc of pineapple, (ch 3, sc in next trc of pineapple)

	 8 times; ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp, shell in sp of next shell.

Row 18:  Ch 5, turn; shell in sp of first shell, ch 2 sk next ch 2 sp,

	 sc in first sp of pineapple, (ch 3, sc in next sp of pineapple)

	 7 times; ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp, shell in sp of next shell.

Rows 19 through 24:  Rep Row 18, 6 times, having 1 ch 3 sp less on pine-

                     apple on each row. (NOTE:  At end of Row 24, you should

                     have one sp on top of pineapple.)

Row 25:  Ch 5, turn; shell in sp of first shell, ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp, 

         sc in last sp of pineapple; ch 2, sk next ch 2 sp, shell in sp of

	 next shell.

Row 26:  Ch 5, turn; 2 dc in sp of first shell, sk next two ch 2 sps, 2 dc

         in sp of next shell; ch 4, sk next dc of shell, sl st in next dc.

         Finsih off; weave in ends.



Enjoy!
Linda Casey
Modesto, California, USA
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Washing Dirty Wool for Spinning
Date: 29 Sep 92 02:55:37 GMT
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research

In article <1992Sep26.114331.16842@panix.com> ilaine@panix.com (Liz Stokes) writes:
>In article <1992Sep25.161256.52379@gmuvax.gmu.edu> sbowen@gmuvax.gmu.edu writes:
>>
>>This is to all the spinners who seem to be appearing out there.
>>
>>I was unhappy with most wool washing techniques because they tended to
>>take too much lanolin out of a fleece and I love to work with lanolin,
>>due to my dry skin. So I came up with this method.
>
>	I don't like to leave any lanolin in, because I am likely to keep the
>wool for a long time before I get around to doing anything with it, and the
>grease will eventually degrade the fiber.

I'm told that lanolin is one of the ingredients in the stickum in masking
tape....  Lanolin left in your yarn attracts dirt AND makes your yarn more
attractive to insects.  Lanolin left in unspun wool gets sticky and hard.
Spinning a freshly sheared fleece in the grease can be fun (but what a mess
it makes of your equipment!), but old lanolin is yucky.

I believe Rita B. uses the netting/lock organizing method described, but
with HOT water.

It should also be noted that washing a fleece in warm water can leave it
in worse shape than it started.  The chemical structure of (I can't remember
if it's the wool wax or the grease) changes as it gets warmer.  If this
changed stuff is allowed to cool on the wool, it is MUCH harder to get
off than the original.

The moral as I see it is to wash HOT, drain off the dirty water while it's
still HOT, wash HOT again if it was REALLY dirty/greasy, rinse HOT, and
then subsequent rinses can be a bit cooler.  The greasier your wool, the
more careful you have to be about this.  Merino requires special care,
I'm told.

I like handling greasy fleece, but I handle it when sorting, and then I
wash it.

By the way, I've been using the washing machine to wash fleece, and I like this
method better than the lay-each-lock-in-netting method.  It's faster and I
think the wool is looser and happier, too.

Fill your washer with HOT water.  Put in 1/4 -- 1/3 cup Orvus for each pound
of fleece.  Agitate the washer a little to mix up the water and Orvus.  Put
in the fleece.  Shove it under the water (I use a plunger).  Soak 15 minutes
(NO AGGITATION!!), spin off the dirty water.  Open the washer and move the
wool away from the place where the water comes in.  Fill the washer with HOT
water.  Soak 15 minutes.  Spin.  Move wool.  Fill with hot water.  Add a
glug of vinegar.  Soak 15 minutes.  Spin.  Spread out to dry.  

Note that how many pounds you can do at a time depends on the kind of fleece.
Two or three pounds of Romney will fit, no problem, but only one of Suffolk.....

I think that wool-washing is one of those religious issues ( ;-)  ).  Some
vow by one method, and others swear by another.

At least we can all agree on enjoying the fibers!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: ccd@ccadfa.cc.adfa.oz.au (Carol C Denehy)
Subject: DMC yarn guide
Organization: None, and I like it like that
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 23:47:05 GMT

To those I have queried about the availability of a guide to DMC
tapestry yarns, that is, samples of all the colours with numbers,
I have found it. Maybe not the most convenient, but at least I
know it exists. I have a catalogue from a shop in Chichester,
England, that with their notes about wool, shows and lists this
yarn guide. The price in 1991 pounds was 11.50. I may try one more
place I know of in Australia but several craft shops already asked
here never heard of such a thing.

Carol Denehy
From: lcasey@koko.csustan.edu (Linda Casey)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Sugar 'n Cream Cotton yarn
Date: 4 Oct 92 03:02:48 GMT
Organization: CSU Stanislaus

About Sugar 'n Cream yarn.  It is a sport weight cotton yarn used for making
household items.  For the dish cloth you could use a bedspread weight and
just knit until one side is as wide as you'd like it to be.

Bye!
Linda Casey 
Modesto, California, USA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles