HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ych@cs.utah.edu (Yuan Hsieh)
Subject: Re: Questions for anyone... Anyone?
Date: 15 Sep 92 14:32:56 MDT
Organization: University of Utah CS Dept

In article <binkley.716572921@beagle> binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley) writes:
>The beer will have more body and will taste about 1,000,000 times
>better.  It is completely beyond me why the manufacturers of
>malt extract still recommend the addition of sugar.  After all,
>when you go all malt not only do you buy twice as much of their
>product, but your beer ends up tasting good enough to make again!

I just had a interesting thought, has anyone ever tried to mix malt extracts
from different manufacturers?  For example, mix a can of Unhooped John Bull 
Dark with a can of Alexander's Unhopped Pale.  Will the result have noticeable
difference?  

I think I will try it for my next batch.

>Jon Binkley

-Y'



Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pyle@intellistor.com (Norm Pyle)
Subject: Re: One mans rose...
Organization: Intellistor, Longmont, CO
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 22:52:45 GMT

In article <BuA53I.ABr@wrs.com> gak@wrs.com writes:
>In article 716010428snx@essence.demon.co.uk, prh@essence.demon.co.uk (Peter Humphrey) writes:
>
>I say the heck with them.  He's not breaking any laws, and if they
>don't like it, they can put a fan in their window to blow the smell
>away.

I agree.  Just do it.  Ignore them until (if) they actually get up the nerve
to call the constable.  When (if) the men in uniform arrive, act surprised,
apologetic, and stupid (if necessary) and then deal with it later.  They're
not going to haul you off to jail.  How bad could it be?  This is, of course,
easy for me to say.

Norm
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bcronk@bnr.ca (Bryan Cronk)
Subject: Re: Christmas Brew
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP 
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:46:15 GMT

In article <23228@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) writes:

stuff about christmas brew deleted.....
 
|> 
|> WARNING:  This stuff tasted like s%#t on ice for at least 6 months.
|> Honey is like that often.  Also... the spices were totally overpowering
|> 

I'm a real newbie and decided to make my first batch a honey lager.  I don't
know if this was a mistake or not, but after a week in the bottle, it tastes
great at room temperature, but is really bitter cold.  Is this a common
phenomenon with honey in beer?  I used 3.3 lbs light malt extract syrup,
2 1/2 lbs honey, 1 1/2 oz. cascade for boiling, and 1/2 oz finishing,
and 2 pkgs dry Vierka lager yeast.

It fermented really quickly to the final S.G. of 1.003, and is clear and
carbonated after a week.

Will it get better over time?  Has anyone else experienced what I am?

Thanks for any input.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bryan Cronk   BNR, Inc., Research Triangle Park, NC   (919) 991-7598(W)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Helium-charged beer
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 21:02:50 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.185002.22116@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> pat@sphinx.phys.Virginia.EDU (pat walsh) writes:
>Joseph Nathan Hall writes:
>
>>So, I just noticed in the new Zymurgy that the Club Night at the National
>>Conference featured a helium-charged beer.
>
>>(!)
>
>Wow, I can just see the ads for this:
>
>"For those of you who want to talk like Herve Villechaize!" (sp?)
>
>Sorry, couldn't resist. :-) :-) :-)

I'd expect something like :  "Coor's Lighter-than-air".

Now if you pour a little too briskly, does the head form on top, and
then float away?
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: stuck fermentation cured by adding Amalayse
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:06:34 GMT

In article <1992Sep10.204547.11181@terminator.cc.umich.edu>
 markg@umich.edu (Mark Giuffrida) writes:

>I want to understand what happened so I can learn from this experience. 
>I know that the amalayse is used to convert unfermentable detrins into
>fermentable sugars.  From "the book" I learned that some breweries
>always add it to their fermentation vessles.  I suspect the DME I was
>using had too much dextrin content and not enough glucose content.

There was a study (series of studies?) done some time ago and reported in 
_zymurgy_, the HBD, etc.  The conclusion was that some malt extract makers 
must use regular sugar (corn syrup, etc.) to cut down their extract, because 
many/some of the extracts were very low in some yeast nutrients, especially 
free amino nitrogen (FAN).  The extracts that were poor in this respect 
almost always led to stuck ferments.

I suspect that your particular brand of malt extract is not the best 
quality.  

Other reasons for stuck ferments could be lack of sufficient oxygen for the 
yeast or temperature shock, though the last is unlikely in your case.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: reilley@studio.enet.dec.com (Tom Reilley)
Subject: So it's about Newbie Postings.
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1992 05:00:43 GMT


All,

	A few posts back:

>Article: 6550
>Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
>From: mitchell@milpnd.enet.dec.com (Kathleen Mitchell)
>Subject: Re: REQUEST: Cider Recipes
>Sender: usenet@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com (USENET News System)
>Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
>Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1992 15:48:04 GMT


	Kathleen Mitchell posted a Followup and quoted verbatim beaucoup lines
from 2 previous posts about making cider, etc., but she neglected to include
anything herself - for a very good reason. She is not only new to homebrewing,
but she is also brand new to using Vnews & posting in a newsgroup.
	She was upset about being a newbie & making a 'blunder' on her initial
posting. Then she was REALLY upset when she found out she couldn't "delete"
her post.
	I told her to Relax...Don't Worry... that the peole in r.c.b
were more tolerant & understanding of these things than any other news-
group I've followed or participated in.
	Although I don't personally know "Kits" that well, I have followed
many of her postings in our internal DEC Notesfiles and she is a witty
and intelligent woman who will eventually be able to contribute a lot
to r.c.b., so I hope nobody flames her for being a novice at posting.


	How'd I do, Kits?  Did I sufficiently prostrate myself before the
masses just for you?? 

	You now owe me 10 bottles of your first-born.

	Gawwwwwd I'm so shameless. Bwahahahaha !!!   :-)


Reil

	*	*	 *        *        *        *       *       *


Tom Reilley                               
DEC 		 	reilley@studio.enet.dec.com
30 Forbes Road
Northboro, MA 01532-2595 USA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: One mans rose...
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 21:59:41 GMT

In article 716010428snx@essence.demon.co.uk, prh@essence.demon.co.uk (Peter Humphrey) writes:
>Seems to me the best thing you can do, short of ignoring your neighbours 
>and their perfectly reasonable request (:^*) is to put a hood over your 
>boiler and route the steam through a home-made condenser.

Sounds good...think Edwin's neighbors will be willing to pay for the
setup?  After all, they're the ones with the problem, not Edwin.

I say the heck with them.  He's not breaking any laws, and if they
don't like it, they can put a fan in their window to blow the smell
away.

gak

---
I don't know what system you use,  you might try vodka in Evian bottles.   Some
people like  cream in  their morning coffee,  I spike  mine with  a little  JD.
Mickey's Big Mouths are an excellent choice, you can use the empty bottles as a
desktop vase.                               -Hoodlum Empire "Get Drunk At Work"
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Liquid Yeast
Summary: Advice Needed On Liquid Yeast
Keywords: Liquid Yeast
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Distribution: rec.crafts.brewing
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 16:18:58 GMT

In article <kelly.716219662@spyro>
 kelly@spyro.cray.com (Matt Kelly) writes:

>Anyway, I am also planning to use liquid yeast this time.  I know that 
>liquid yeasts, like dry yeasts, vary from brand to brand and type to type, 
>some being "better" than others.

Hmmm.  The problem with this statement is that there are so few brands of 
liquid yeast cultures compared to dry.  Wyeast is currently the big name in 
homebrewing circles.  I haven't come across any others except smaller 
companies or stores that sell their cultures.

With the variety of liquid yeast cultures, the biggest factor is matching 
the strain of yeast to the beer you want to make.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: stewarte@sco.COM (just a guy made of dots and lines)
Subject: how about a US brewpub list?
Organization: Captain Napalm's Thermonuclear League of Liberty
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 00:46:53 GMT


I see a lot of requests in here for brewpubs in (insert area you're
travelling to next week).  I just travelled all around the country,
and stopped at a few brewpubs listed in a book called "On Tap" -- but
found that the book was rather out of date; one pub had closed and
no doubt I missed others that have opened since 1990.  

So, it seems to me that maintaining a list of all known US brewpubs,
and posting that list to rec.crafts.brewing periodically, would be
a useful service.  I'm thinking in terms of something like a listing
by state, perhaps by city, that includes the basic information (name,
address, phone, hours, directions or part of town), what kinds of
beers they brew, food, and perhaps general comments by folks who've
been there.  

What do y'all think?  Would this be useful?  In what form would you
want this kind of information?  Any other informaton that should be
collected?  

I may volunteer to compile this beast, but I'm not committing myself
quite yet.  Let me know what you think, via email unless you think
something really merits discussion.

-- Stewart
-- 
"The world would be a better place if it were just women and me."
					-- Andy Partridge
/*  uunet!sco!stewarte  -or-  stewarte@sco.COM  -or-  Stewart Evans  */
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: First all-grain brew a disaster (comments and questions)
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 17:15:33 GMT

 
 Article 5627 (10 more) in rec.crafts.brewing:
 From: pmfisher@milton.u.washington.edu (Patrick Fisher)
 
 Subject: First all-grain brew a disaster (comments and questions)
 
 >       The lauter-tun clogged.  I made a tun using 2 5-gallon buckets.
 .....  Drained it again, attacked it with the screwdriver,
 filled, clogged again....
 
 Sounds like a fun time.  Once again I preach about the importance of 
 maintaining water temp.  Not sure what you did but I suspect by the time you 
 gave up the stuff was cool enough for Baby Bear to eat.
 
 Probably the most serious drawback of the plastic bucket system is that you 
 only get one chance and this is why I promote kettle mashing as a much more 
 forgiving approach.
 
 It is not clear when it clogged, whether it never ran at all or clogged 
 during the sparge.  The cure depends on which.  If it clogged during the 
 sparge, it would probably be the result of the sparge water being too cool.  
 Ignore the experts and use boiling water next time.
 
 If it never ran, you should be able to cure this just by stiring it up again 
 unless there is something grossly wrong with your false bottom.  I presume 
 that you know it is NOT supposed to run like a fawcet.  It SHOULD trickle 
 out.
 
 >      Counter-chiller was set up, but the hops (8 oz.) clogged the
 exit on the brewpot (although I had a strainer over the exit).
 
 Sounds like you need a proper strainer on your kettle.  Send me email and I 
 will send instructions on how to make or buy one.
 
 js
 
 p.s.  Congratulations on your valliant effort.  Just nee to debug the 
 system:)
 
 jjs
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Great idea but....
Keywords: Pathetic snivelling
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:56:37 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:



> However, judging from an 
> article in the Chicago Tribune, I would expect you to be an expert on wierd 
> flavors.

Having tried several of Al's beers in Milwaukee (as did George Fix, Bob Jones
and Micah MIlspaw) I will attest that they were all quite good, and 
importantly, very true to style. No brewer makes perfect beer evey time,
and none of the ones I know personally claim to. Ron Paige, a New England
legend who wins a lot of ribbons locally, tells us for every beer he
enters (of which 2 of 3 win a ribbon typically) there are 3 more that
never leave his cellar. 


> BTW, again... just how does one get bacterial infection during mashing.  Most 
> of us do this at or above pasturization temperature and then boil afterwords.

I believe that pasteurization temps are 180F, now you don't really mash
at or above these temps Jack?? I think you meant that you boil above these
temps.

> We all can and do make excuses for our lousy beer and most of us can take it 
> in stride.  But you, my friend, are truly pathetic.   The next thing I expect 
> to hear from you is that you trashed your MALTMILL and converted one of those 
> Italian pasta makers, to really show me.
> 
> js

It has nothing to do with showing anyone anything Jack, My mill is not
a converted past maker, it is and always was deisgned for crushing grain,
I just modified it to make it more efficient for crushing barley for 
brewing vs. crushing a range of grains for making Muesli. And the 
lowdown is $$ this mill was $40 cheaper than your mill.

	JaH

--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
From: abirenbo@rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: "Dry" Beer?
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:07:27 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs

In article <1992Sep6.031036.8376@synapse.bms.com> gopstein@helix.bms.com (Rich Gopstein) writes:
>
>How do the recent "dry" beers (Michelob, Bud, Molson, ...) differ
>from non dry beers?

highly fermentable worts and special yeasts.  I believe they add enzymes
to the mash for very high fermentability.

>  How would one home brew some?  Thanks.

since enzymes and engineered yeasts are not available to us, I suggest
fermenting mostly with your usual yeast, then pitch some champagne
yeast.  The champagne yeast should ferment out most of the stuff
that your ale yeast leaves behind.

If you're brewing from extract use some rice syrup for at least 1/2 the
fermentables, and the lightest malt extract u can find.

for the mashers, I'd try a mess o cooked rice grits in the mash, perhaps 40%,
then 20% corn starch, and 40% klages.


I haven't done this because i do not like lite beers.... but have thought
about trying it just for grins.


--
Aaron Birenboim                                |I am just too tired to think
abirenbo%rigel.cel.scg.hac.com@hac2arpa.hac.com|of a good quote.
abirenbo@isis.cs.du.edu                        |    - ChickenHead
w (303) 344-6486                               |
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@gauguin.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: A question about sparging
Organization: University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 19:24:37 GMT

In article <Bu2E73.8uE@wrs.com> gak@wrs.com writes:
>
>Here's how I do it (which sounds close to your description):
>	- pour sparge water into the lauter tun until the false bottom
>	  is covered.  (This is called "underletting".  I often forget to
>	  do this, and always kick myself for forgetting.)
>	- Dump the mash from your mash kettle into your lauter tun.
>	- Recycle a couple of gallons of wort by drawing it off a quart
>	  at a time and carefully pouring it back over the grain bed.
>	  (Some brewers skip that step.)
>	- Draw off the wort and transfer it to your boiler (which in my
>	  case is my (rinsed-out) mash kettle).  Add sparge water as
>	  needed to keep the level of the water maybe an inch above the
>	  grain bed.
>
>Check Papazian or Miller for more details.  Start with a method like
>this, and modify it to make it work in your brewery.

the religious sparging question :-).  miller says we should strive for
31-33 points from malt- charlie says 25-30.  i use miller's book generally
but my lauter tun is sort of charlie, i.e. 2 equaly sized buckets with a 
nasty underlet - 2.5", maybe.  i drilled as per miller, 1/8" holes on 1/4''
frame, but then redrilled another round of holes between each.  Sparges 
are quick, too quick maybe.  in order to limit the sparge water, last time
i poured wort straight in holding back the grains till the bottom was submerged
but lots of flour and fines made it through.  recirculating to clear took a 
few rounds.  unfortunately i didn't read miller well eonough and didn`t prop
up the side of the tun with a book, which allowed lots to stay down there.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Edwin Sharp)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: One mans rose...
Date: 7 Sep 92 15:17:11 GMT
Distribution: all
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center


	With the start of a new school year, new people move into the apartment complex.  Unfortunatly, my new neighbors are dry as toast and threatened to call the local police if I kept "disturbing their peace by inflicting the stench of a brewery upon them."
Short of finding another brew site, I was wondering if it would be possible to  brew without the wonderful aromas involved.  Any hints?
E/S

:q
From: hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: REQUEST: Cider Recipes
Date: 10 Sep 92 00:41:12 GMT
Organization: X Consortium, MIT Laboratory for Computer Science

periodic announcement

for those interested in cider making there is a cider digest
send requests to

cider-request@expo.lcs.mit.edu


	JaH
--
Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: stout
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 15 Sep 92 15:57:59 GMT

u8551002@ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au writes:

>Hi,
>Has anyone out there used a concentrated stout wort called MtMellick -
>comments please.

I haven't tried the Stout, but I used their Irish Ale kit once with
great success, so I assume they're a pretty good outfit.  Make sure
you only use the extract- don't go throwing any sugar in, even
if the can says so!!

Jon Binkley

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: binkley@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jon Binkley)
Subject: Re: hop aroma
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: 14 Sep 92 17:54:17 GMT

esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (Edwin Sharp) writes:

>What would be the best type of hops to use for covering up an unpleasant
>smell?  I was thinking perhaps Saaz, as it has a great smell.  

True, but it's a subtile smell.  If I want something that grabs me
by the throat and screams "HOPS!!!!!!!" I use a bunch of Cascades;
say, 2 oz. dry hopped.

Jon Binkley

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: how about a US brewpub list?
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 22:26:03 GMT

Regarding "On Tap", Norm Pyle writes:
>There is a periodic update to this book.  Of course, I don't remember the
>name of it.  It comes out in sort of a pamphlet form.  I may be able to dig
>it up if there is interest.  I do know the cost of the updates is not pocket
>change, although it may be just a few dollars.

Damn!  I just threw away the order form last weekend.  The book itself
is around $15, and I think the update was around $7.

Isn't someone here (Dale Cooper et.al.?) working on an on-line list?  I
remember getting some email saying their form was forthcoming, but I
haven't heard anything further for a couple of weeks.

---
Richard Stueven        gak@wrs.com         attmail!gakhaus!gak        107/H/3&4
          To sight it must ring clear as a bell, it must snap
          in the ear, feel pleasantly sticky between the fingers,
          smell fresh and tempting and taste heavenly.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: markg@umich.edu (Mark Giuffrida)
Subject: stuck fermentation cured by adding Amalayse
Reply-To: markg@umich.edu
Organization: University of Michigan
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:45:47 GMT

I had an interesting experience with a stuck fermentation.  I brewed a
DME porter and initial fermentation was active and doing well.  Well for
about 24 hours that is.  Then it quickly settled down.  OG was 1.052, it
was at 1.030 and FG should be around 1.020.  Anyways, I added some
"yeast energizer" (not "yeast nutrient".  It was rust colored and was
sold under the name yeast energizer).  As soon as I added it, it took
off, but quickly subsided in 10 minutes leading me to believe the yeasts
were healthy and active, but there was nothing more to ferment.  I
talked to someone at our local homebrew shop who suggested I add
Alpha-amalayse.  I did and the fermentation took off (kraeusen and
everything) and fermented down to 1.017 in 3 more days.  By the way, I
suggest this method for anyone who thinks they have done everything
right and has a stuck ferment they don't know how to cure.

I want to understand what happened so I can learn from this experience. 
I know that the amalayse is used to convert unfermentable detrins into
fermentable sugars.  From "the book" I learned that some breweries
always add it to their fermentation vessles.  I suspect the DME I was
using had too much dextrin content and not enough glucose content.  Is
this a correct assumption?  Will amalayse convert *all* the dextrins in
the fermenting brew or just some of them?  The book mentions that some
dextrins are desirable because it adds to the body of the beer.  Based
on my experience I'm tempted to add amalayse to all my DME
fermentations, but I have the feeling this is not necessarily the best
thing to do.

Mark Giuffrida
University of Michigan
IFS Deployment Project, ITD
markg@umich.edu
From: pepke@gw.scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Help! Lagging Lager!
Date: 14 Sep 92 17:03:13 GMT
Organization: Florida State University, but I don't speak for them

I have had to wait up to two weeks for appreciable fermentation in a 
low-temperature lager.  Came out fine.

Eric Pepke                                    INTERNET: pepke@scri.fsu.edu
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute MFENET:   pepke@fsu
Florida State University                      SPAN:     scri::pepke
Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052                    BITNET:   pepke@fsu

Disclaimer: My employers seldom even LISTEN to my opinions.
Meta-disclaimer: Any society that needs disclaimers has too many lawyers.