HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: twcaps@tennyson.lbl.gov (Terry Chan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: A Goldfish Story [or Ignorance is Bliss?] and GIFs?
Date: 4 Sep 1992 22:50:30 GMT
Organization: Department of Redundancy Department
Reply-To: TWChan@lbl.gov (Terry Chan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.3.12.117

In light of some of the talk on goldfish, it reminded me of how my
father kept goldfish 17 years ago and was a wonder (at least to me) 
of how robust they can be.

Being of extremely modest means, we lived in a very small 2 BR apt.
Since he was once a farmer, he loved growing and raising plants and 
animals.  Someone gave us 4 goldfish about 0.5" long.  Nothing special, 
they were an orange/gold color with flowing fins.

Anyway, my dad put them in a high 20 gallon tank.  He bought some
cheap gravel and at my insistence, put in a small, in tank filter
with some glass wool and carbon.  As time and money permitted, he 
then put in some Elodea and lots of plastic plants (he had his own 
sense of aesthetics).  Since we lived in Hawaii, he thought some 
rocks would be nice so one day when we were down at the beach, he 
found two large pieces of sun dried and bleached coral.  He took 
them home, washed them and put them in the tank.  The pieces were 
so big that they stuck up out of the water level.  

He just feed the fish pellet food daily, and once a month, put the 
fish in buckets and flushed everything in the aquarium out.  He later 
added a couple of Chinese Algae Eaters and a couple of Corydoras.

BTW, the tank was located in a small kitchen where my father 
continually stir fried stuff and there was often a bit of oil on 
the surface of the water.

As opposed to the big one I am now, I was just a small punk then, 
but I thought that the water hardness should go through the roof 
and be really detrimental to the fish.  The tank's location was 
terrible and he hardly ever changed the filter medium (the filter 
was probably inadequate anyway) and never fed live food.  But I'll 
be darned.  We had that tank 5 years, the goldfish grew to 4.5" in 
length (excluding fins), the algae eaters to 5", and the Corydoras 
to 2.5".  We finally had to give the tank away when we moved. 

Was my dad really super fortunate or is this not unusual?  Even 
though I was young, I read the literature as much as I could and 
I just couldn't but help feel bad for those fish, but they sure 
seemed to thrive.  Comments?

On another note, does anyone know where I can find some gifs and 
whatnot of various FW and SW fish, tanks, and plant life?  I can't 
have an aquarium at work, but some wall paper would be nice....

Thanks for listening,

Terry
--
Internet:  TWChan@lbl.gov                  This is illegal, but I know jujitsu
Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory                         so I don't care.
Berkeley, California  USA  94720                      
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Subject: Re: Does grounding the sump work?
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 23:06:58 GMT

sh240031@wvnvms.wvnet.edu writes:

>Ok. Let me try this again.  I disconnected the wire from the screw.  I attached
>on end of the volt meter to the disconnected wire and the other end to the
>ground screw.  This effectively measures the voltage from the tank, into the
>electrode, through the meter(~70 VAC) into the ground screw.
>

Carl,

It sounds like your confusing the measuring of current with voltage.  Voltage
is not something that flows or travels.  It is a potential energy level.
A voltmeter effectively does not allow any current to flow (well, very
miniscule amounts).  You have connected your voltmeter in series, which
is really how you would want to connect an ammeter to measure current flow.
To measure voltage, you need to connect your voltmeter in parallel.  That is,
leave your grounding circuit intact, and measure the difference in voltage
potential at the electrode and the ground screw, while not disrupting the
normal operation of your circuit.  So far, you have only measured the voltage
that exists in your tank when there is no grounding (since you effectively
disconnected your grounding circuit to insert your voltmeter).  So, 70vac seems
about right for a typical induced voltage (not grounded).  If your circuit
is properly grounded, you should measure close to 0 volts.

So, we are still waiting to hear the results of your next experiment to
find out if grounding the sump is ok.......

Jason

-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dphantom@triton.unm.edu (darlene an  92sep02 lawry)
Subject: Re: [F] tank and fish suggestions REQUEST
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 92 02:48:48 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <1992Sep10.044507.18863@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu> weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley) writes:
>
>1) What are the pluses and minuses of a HEX tank? 
>
>2) I want this tank to be a community tank and want some thoughts
>   on the mix my wife and I want to set up in this tank.
>  	She wants:	~12 neon tetras
>			2-4 mollies
>			2-4 red velvet swords
>
>	I want :	2 dwarf gourami
>			1 puffer fish
>			1 betta (maybe a friend later)
>			1 kuhli loach and/or another algae eater
>			1-2 killifish
>

Comments:
Neon Tetras - somewhat tricky to tank conditions, and definitely tricky
when it comes to other fish.  Although I've always had good luck with them
I've known people who have had mollies eat them.  So I wouldn't recommend
them unless you've dealt with them before.

Puffer fish - quirky personality...although a very interesting fish to 
have, they tend to go on mean streaks and chew on other fish.  Some are
worse about this than others depending on which kind you get.  Your Betta
would almost certainly get chewed sooner or later.  The others (except for
the Kuhli Loach perhaps) would probably become targets next.

Killifish - they have a tendency to jump outta tanks.  Make sure it's
sealed well.

Kuhli Loach - pretty much your "gets along in most tanks" fish.  But I wouldn't
call it an algae eater...it's a scavanger, and not a terribly good one at
that.

Oh yah, Hex tanks - they provide a good amount of surface & are compact.
But I dunno that your racing fish would like it better than a long tank...

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:7332 sci.aquaria:1347
From: steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M][R] Coral spawning report
Keywords: coral spawning
Date: 14 Sep 92 19:08:15 GMT
Reply-To: celia!steve@usc.edu (Steve Tyree)
Organization: Rhythm & Hues, Inc., Hollywood

In article <1992Sep14.160151.7965@javelin.sim.es.com> krogers@javelin.sim.es.com writes:
->I had a coral spawn last night.  It is difficult to tell which one but
->I'm pretty sure it was the "metallic mushroom" coral.  I don't have a
->latin binomial for them.  There are 4, originally 2 but one reproduced
->asexually by spliting into three pieces about a year ago.  They're all
->about 6" across and are flesh colored with a metallic green sheen on
->the top surfaces of the discs.  There are various lumps and nubs over
->the surface as well.
->
->Particulars: approx 100-300 yellowish tan to beige (how's that for a
->difinitive color :) spheres which are a little less than 1mm in
->diameter.  The company microscope is locked up today so I've only been
->able to look at them through an el-cheapo 30x pen scope.  At that
->power they look like totally undifferentiated spheres.

 That might confirm what I witnessed in my tank. Did the "fuzzy metallic
mushroom coral" release the planulae in one large bundle which than slow-
ly broke apart into individual planulaes ?
 I am currently 1 day after full moon and was only planning on doing 1 more
summer full moon before going into winter. This weekend I purchased 2 real
nice closed brain corals. A Favites sp. (red) and a Leptoria sp. (green
ridges with purple valleys). These two corals came from a location that is
20 degrees south of the equator. That means that they are probably 1 - 2
months away from spawning. Should I wait a little longer ? Maybe I will
slowly go into winter and give the corals 2 more full moons.

 Steve Tyree - Reef Breeder
From: frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Frank Ball)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 18:23:13 GMT
Subject: Re: (F) What do you feed a LOBSTER and CRAYFISH...
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria


*    into the gravel the next time. I hesitate to use the Tabimin as that stuff
*    disolves rather quickly into really small particles which end up hanging
*    out in the gravel, never getting eaten; especially now when I don't have
*    any bottom scavengers except for the cray.

The crayfish do an excellent job of cleaning the gravel.  I drop in one
tabimin a day, along with some zucinni and goldfish food.  I have four
medium sized comets (goldfish) and a chinese algii (I can't spell) eater in 
a 10 gallon tank.  I don't even bother with gravel vacuuming anymore, 
nothing much came out.  I just do water changes.  With four goldfish in
a ten gallon tank the water removed from gravel vacuuming would normally
be dark opaque brown.
 
Frank Ball   1UR-M          frankb@hpsad.sad.hp.com
Hewlett Packard   	    (707) 794-4168 work  (707) 538-3693 home
1212 Valley House Drive     
Rohnert Park CA 94928-4999  KC6WUG Seca 750 XT350 IT175 DoD#7566 I'm the NRA.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Scats, Chemi-Pure, Reeforms, Plants
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 17:02:29 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

Hi,

1. Can anyone tell me about Scats?  Can they live in a community tank?  Can
they live with angelfish?  Do they get large?

2. I notice that the label on Chemi-Pure (filter media) tells about how
well it keeps the pH neutral.  What do people do if they use Chemi-Pure
but don't want the pH at 7.0?  Can it be used at other pH's?

3. Anyone have those "Reeforms" artifical corals?  Do they look nice and
work well in a tank?

4. Anyone have any tips for making plastic plants look more lifelike?
(I know you'll say get live plants, but I'm curious if there are tricks
for making the plastic one look more natural.)

Thanks, Cliff
From: jcp3@po.CWRU.Edu (Jose C. Perales)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Feeding a flame angel
Date: 9 Sep 1992 15:57:28 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc12.ins.cwru.edu


Hi James

  One question: Did your flame angel eat in the store before you
bought him? One rule that I follow (after learning the hard way,
as is so often the case) is to always ask to see the fish feed
before buying it. This way you can determine a little better if
the fish is healthy or if it is not. 
  I bought a blue angel that I asked to see feed. All he did was 
investigate the food in the water, but I bought him anyway. Then 
I went through more than a week of stress before he ate in my
tank. Another thing that I didn't do was quarantine him and 
have had disease problems ever since. As a matter of fact, I just
lost that fish after several bouts of cryptocaryon. From now on
I will ask to see a fish feed and then quarantine after purchase.
Luckily the other fish in the tank survived the ordeal and are
ok now, but I could have saved time, money, and a beautiful fish
if I had followed simple advice. The simple advice is this: If a
fish does not feed in the store, do not buy it. If a fish feeds
in the store, buy it and quarantine it before introducing it to
the main tank.

FRANK MULARO  CASE WESTERN RESERVE UNIVERSITY  CLEVE OH
-- 
I regret absolutely of any of my previous comments about 
Americans being morally and intelectually superior.
This is not true being only the result of a temporal moral 
disturbance in my mind!!!.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: [F][P] Any plants in a true Amazonian tank?
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 23:18:16 GMT

krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers) writes:

>I've been persuing The Complete Book of Aquarium Plants, by Allgayer
           ^^^^^^^^

That is to say, I've been perusing, not persuing.  Must have been my 
keyboard acting up again :-()
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: bio-logic trickle filter
Date: 5 Sep 92 17:54:19 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN

jeffrey.silverstein@execnet.com (jeffrey silverstein) writes:

: I've been using the Bio-Logic 800 Filter for almost a year on a 30
: gallon tank with a few inverts and 3 fish.  The problem is that
: whenever I unplug the filter (e.g water changes, etc)or if the outlet
: looses power temporarily the power head running the filter is almost
: impossible to restart.  I frequently have to remove the power head 4 or
: 5 times and spin the roter a bit and try reconnecting the power head to
: the electricity.  Sometimes if I just keep plugging and unplugging the
: power head it will eventually catch, but sometimes this can take a
: preposterously long time.  What is wrong with this filter/power head.
: I'm so frustrated that I'm considering a different filter system.

That filter uses a Hagen 802 powerhead.  You could probably go buy a
new one and eliminate some of the problem.  Or you could get a reasonably
strong magnet to help re-start the powerhead.  I really think this is
a common problem with powerheads in general.  I have the same filter,
although I'm no longer using it I had the same problems when I did.

--

Tom McCain 
tom@ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Subject: Re: [M][R] Live Rock Farming
Keywords: live rock coral reef breeding
Reply-To: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp., Salt Lake City, Utah
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 19:44:04 GMT

steve@celia.UUCP (Steve Tyree) writes:

> The new issue of FAMA has a very interesting editorial article. I forgot
>to bring the magazine into work so I will try to remember the details.

It is described in Don Dewey's monthly editorial (for Oct).  Don't
forget to read the ubiquitous scripture citation at the top, too...

>A new company has formed which sells reef breeding systems based on the
>algae scrubber tanks described in the Academic Book Dynamic Aquaria. These
>systems unfortunately sell for 100,000 for the first 625 system which in-
>cludes support and other goodies, each additional tank costs ~ 20,000 US.

I believe you get 3 of the 625 tanks for your initial $100k.

>The company name might be ECO-Systems or something similar. The first systems
>are primarily intended to grow and farm live rock which can be sold and
>used as the base rock for captove reefs. They predict that about 10,000 $
>of live rock can be seeded and sold per year. The system apparently is de-
>signed to allow the entire food chain (planktons) to exist. This is no
>doubt due to the algae scrubber method of filtration.

And utilizing very gentle water moving devices like bellows and auger
water pumps rather than kilo-g centrifugal ones which hash most
living things.

> The author also men-
>tions that a similar system is being used in the Australian Great Barrier
>Reef Park, and that synchronous coral spawning has occured in the tank with
>spawning on the reef. This was reported here also by Jamie Oliver. He did
>not mention the algae scrubber system however.

FAMA had an article on the GBRP a while back which showed the
scrubbers which were on top of some of the buildings, i.e. out in the
open air uncovered.  They can get away with that there, of course.

> Anyway, the price of the system is steep but it sounds like an excellent
>idea. Apparently the company wants to establish locally based live rock
>breeders who also might be used as distributors for other captive breed
>reef organism. The system themselves are quoted as being capable of pro-
>pagating many reef organisms. Its sounds like they may be hyping the ca-
>pabilities of the system a little however, I applaud the efforts. Imagine,
>we could purchase captive grown live rock without nasty organisms in them.

Yeah, a lot of hype, but a step in the right direction.
-- 
Keith Rogers
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: rader@ssec.wisc.edu (Steve Rader)
Subject: Coral Aggression Chart (WAS: Re: corals fighting)
Organization: University of Wisconsin, Space Science and Engineering Center
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:08:33 GMT

cowan@aqua.ocunix.on.ca (Darin Cowan (root)) writes:
|> My question.  Anyone has an idea of relative aggressiveness between
|> the corals?

I've typed in a useful table from SeaScope (winter, '92) in which 
Michael Paletta discusses coral aggression in reef aquaria.  It
describes the two major aggressive mechanisms of corals: the release of
terpenoid compounds and the use of sweeper tentacles or mesenteric
filaments.  I found it useful because it includes a majority of 
imported live corals.

The entries marked with a tilde are my additions--Telia anemonies are
placed above open brain coral because I've observed them burn my red
open brain coral.  Both types of colonial zooanthid anemonies listed seem
to release terpenoids that keep mushroom polyps at bay somewhat.  Also,
I've included other common names I know of in quotes.

If the dozen or so readers with sisile invert experience would post
or email me a small paragraph about one or two of the corals listed
here (or others) then r.a would have a nice coral recommendation
faq.  Think about it.  Do it.

I'm tempted to put rock anemonies about number 14... but it's been
a good three years since my reef's had the displeasure...  I seem
to remember a post 'bout them burning some kinda' hard coral lately.


          Relative Aggressiveness of Commonly Kept Reef Invertebrates                    
MOST AGGRESSIVE...

1)	Elegance Coral	(Catalaphyllia plicata, "Tooth coral")
2)	Hammer Coral	(Euphyllia ancora, E. fimbriata, "Torch coral")
3)	Other Euphyllia (E. glabrescens, E. cristala., "Frog's spawn coral")
4)	Bubble Coral	(Plerogyra sinuosa)
5)	Grape Coral	(Physosyra lichensteini, "Small bubble coral")
6)	Mushroom Coral	(Fungia actinoformis)	
7)	Flower Pot Coral (Goniopora sp.)
~)	Telia Anemonies (Telia sp, "Strawberry anemonies; Colony anemonies")	
8)	Open Brain Coral (Trachyphyllia seofroyi)
9)	Cup Coral	(Taxbinaria peltata)
10)	Moon Coral	(Galaxea fascicalaris, )
11)	Closed Brain Coral (Favia sp, "Dead brain coral")
12)	Star Polyps	(Clavalaria sp.)	
13)	Leather Coral	(Sarccphyton sp.)
14)	Tree Coral	(Sinalaris sp., "Fire coral")
15)	Gorgoniana	(Gorgonacea sp.)	
16)	Waving Hand	(Anthelia sp.)
17)	Xenia		(Xenia sp.)
18)	Giant Mushrooms (Rhodactius sp., "Elephant ear coral")
~)	Sea Mat Anemonies (Zooanthus sp., "Sea mat rock")
~)	Ricordia Anemonies (Ricordia sp. "Sea mat rock")
19)	Mushroom Anemonies (Actinodiscus sp., "Mushroom polyps")

...LEAST AGGRESSIVE


Later,
Steve

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Steve Rader                     rader@ssec.wisc.edu
Sys Admin                                 __o __o  
Space Sci & Engineering Center           -\<,-\<, 
University of Wisconsin, Madison       ( )/---/ ( ) 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Darewood Michael Steinhoff)
Subject: wet/dry noise
Originator: dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 19:35:05 GMT

hello all,
         I just purchased my wet/dry filter for my seventy gal. tank, and
everything is working just great, my only gripe is that the over the wall
skimmer that brings water to the filter makes an awful lot of noise, does
anyone out there know of a solution, or at least an effective way to reduce theamount of noise that comes from that thing. see picture below.

                                                             
=====================================================
                                                   /---------
                                                 /  |      /|  <====noise comes                                               / --------/  |  from here.                                                   /  |       |   |                  ============================================|   |       |   |                                                              |   |       |   |
                                            |   |       |   /                                 front                        |   L-------| /   |
                                            |       |   """
                                            |       |   """
                                            |     /     """ <======hose to                                                 |   /       """         filter     ============================================| /         """ 
                 





-- 
'it's 106 miles  to chicago,we got a full tank of gas,
half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses.'
'hit it'
-Jake and Elwood Blues        please send email to dms2@csd4.csd.uwm.edu
From: mark@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Mark D. Collier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Protein skimmers [M][F]
Date: 8 Sep 92 15:33:52 GMT
Organization: Southwest Research Institute, San Antonio, Texas

I am planning to add a protein skimmer to my 160 gallon tank. I currently
have a home-grown wet/dry for bio filtration. I have heard that protein
skimmers are pretty much essential for tanks with inverts. Anyway, what
are the best types of skimmers? The local aquarium shop recommended an
Oceanic venturi skimmer, which seems like a great design, but is also
very expensive ($280). If venturi skimmers are the way to go, has anyone
had any luck buying just the skimmer and hooking it up to a power head?
Also, are their any other venturi skimmers available other than Oceanic?
Finally, what would it take to build your own venturi skimmer?

Thanks in advance.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark D. Collier                      Southwest Research Institute
Senior Research Analyst              Automation and Data Systems Division
Voice: (512) 522-3437                Data Systems Department
FAX:   (512) 522-5499                Software Engineering Section
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Speak for yourself (Was: Serpae Tetra beating goldfish)
Date: 11 Sep 92 21:25:05 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita) writes:
>I didn't know that these fish (or any other fish) had as long a history
>of domestication as the goldfish.

No, those fish were not "domesticated" for as long, only mutated just as 
heavily.

Fish other than goldfish that have been in cultivation for a long time are
koi, Betta splendens (Siamese fighting fish), Dermogenys pusilis (Malayan or 
Wrestling Halfbeak), Macropodus opercularis (Paradise fish).

>Aestehetics aside, are there any other reasons not to keep
>certain types of fish?

If the fish does not offend or harm you, what reason can there be not to 
keep it?  
-- 
"Eight years is too long for anyone to go without skills or purpose." 
							-- George H. W. Bush

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria