HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: varmart@atlas.cs.upei.ca (Reji Martin)
Subject: Re: ficus
Summary: Promoting new growth
Organization: University of Prince Edward Island
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 11:48:56 GMT




> My tree have one very long branch with foliage at the end                       
> and I want it shorter. Is it possible to cut the branch?                        
> Does new foliage grow on the cutted end? 


	I had the same problem with one of my group ficus arrangements
	and I just kept cutting back the new leaf growth on the 
	branch. After a time new growth did start on other areas on 
	the branch. I have also successfully used this method to
	promote new growth at the base of the trunk. I plan to use
	these shoots in the spring to experiment with grafting in
	areas of minimal foliage.

	I will be either bragging about it next year or crying in 
	my leaves.


     The      O
     Wheel   /-
     Brat   ( )\_	varmart@atlas.cs.upei.ca

     Reji Martin,   Prince Edward Island, Canada


Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: bonsai email
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 20:17:46 GMT
Distribution: WORLD
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

I lost my mailbox file while experimenting with a mail handler script.
If you've sent me any email, haven't receive a reply, and were expecting
one, please email me again.

thx...

Xref: sparky alt.bonsai:164 rec.gardens:7299
From: dipster@wam.umd.edu (Sandip Dasgupta)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai,rec.gardens
Subject: CARE OF BABY BONSAI PLANT
Date: 9 Oct 92 23:04:22 GMT
Article-I.D.: wam.1992Oct9.230422.7137
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park


 I recently purchased seeds for a -guess- Bonsai tree. I soaked them in
water as is the instruction, and put them in soil 1cm deep. Three
of the six seeds sprouted. Two of these shoots are in bad health, and
the other wavers between good and bad health. I have to keep adding
water, as the soil seems to dry up very quickly. The instructions
which are written in bad English mention replacing the shoots into
a "flat tray". Is this really necesary? What is a flat tray exactly, and
what is the harm of just putting them in a regular flower pot with
regular soil? How often should I water them? How can I rejuvenate the
two sick shoots? HELP! Reply to dipster@wam.umd.edu, and I will
post the responses I get (if any) - thanx. 
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: bartlone@gemed (Michel Bartolone)
Subject: FAQ diff.
Followup-To: alt.bonsai
Reply-To: "bartlone@gemed.ge.com"
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Milwaukee,  WI
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 92 16:13:58 GMT


Here are the changes to the FAQ for this week...

new: (1192-1333), in a scroll describing life in the Heian period (794-1191).*
---
old: (1192-1333), in a scroll describing life in the Heiari period (794-1191).*

I think it is safe to go into the once per month mode for updates now,
unless we get a flood of new FAQ inputs. I'll still post it every monday
until the end of October. Then we will go to a once per month posting of the
FAQ. I will accept requests to mail the FAQ as long as is doesn't get
to be too big of a load...
						Mike

--
--
How can I? Why should I? I don't want to!
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart)
Subject: thx for the bonsai listserv info...
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 14:33:15 GMT
Organization: CompuTrac Inc., Richardson TX

Oh, by the way Kevin.  Thanks for that bonsai listserver info you sent me.
I have successfully subscribed and am receiving stuff.

Do most of you alt.bonsai'rs know about this?  There is a bonsai list server
available from Wayne.edu (?????).   I don't have the info in front of me.


Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: m116180@cc.tut.fi (M{{tt{ Arto)
Subject: Olive tree (was: Re: sending plants via email)
Organization: Tampere University of Technology, Finland
Distribution: alt.bonsai
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 92 13:45:18 GMT


In <1992Oct5.204654.17045@cs.odu.edu> kants_g@isis.cs.odu.edu (George Kantsios) writes:

>I find that olive trees are quite impossible to kill, and starting
>a new tree is as simple as taking a cutting and putting it into
>a cup of water.

Could you tell the latin name of that tree? Can it be
kept inside whole year or does it need winter and
if it does, how cold? I am not very good to keep my
plants alive and I am interested in this kind of plants.

BTW!! I live in Finland, so mailing cuttings to me would
not be cheap enough, I think. 

| Arto Maatta     m116180@cc.tut.fi |				              |
|				    | 			"YES!"                |
| Orivedenkatu 8 D 86		    |                -DelMonte Man 	      |
| 33720  TAMPERE                    |					      |
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: dave@alex.com (Dave Quinn)
Subject: Re: ficus
Organization: Alex Technolgies Ltd
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:15:32 GMT

|> My next question:
|> My tree have one very long branch with foliage at the end
|> and I want it shorter. Is it possible to cut the branch?
|> Does new foliage grow on the cutted end?
|> 

In my (limited) experience, just removing the end shoot causes the branch to 
re-direct life into nodes further in. 

If you planned on cutting the branch itself you would certainly need to have 
some sealing compound at hand because ficus' exude a milky sap when cut. I have
a feeling that the branch will die back an inch or so from the point that you 
cut it, so you would be wise to cut an inch further out than you actually want.

A less drastic option to cutting through the long branch is to reduce its 
length by bending it into an S shape. 

btw, I am probably not qualified to say any of this... My nicest fig is sulking
in a big way at the moment since I left it outside over night by mistake.

Dave
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: d91karka@IDA.LiU.SE (Karl-Johan Karlsson)
Subject: help
Organization: CIS Dept, University of Linkoping, Sweden
Distribution: alt
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 09:20:58 GMT

Hello Bonsai Freaks!
I have just bought a small Japanese Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa
'nana gracilis') and I need some advice and answers to some questions.

1/ The pot that it was placed in when I bought it has not got any hole in
the bottom for drain, I saw in a book that it was very important.
Should I repot it now or should I wait until spring?

2/ Can it stand on my balcony in the winter or should I put it in the
basement (does it need much light in the winter)?

3/ within what temperature range should my bonsai live(summer,winter)?

+--------------------------------------------------------------------->
| Karl-Johan Karlsson                                             \
|                                                                  \
| Email:                                                            \
|  d91karka@und.ida.liu.se  LiTH (Link|ping Institute of Technology) \
|  kj@lysator.liu.se        Lysator Computer Club                     \
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------->
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: rna@crystal.med.umn.edu (Ryan Alexander (BMEC))
Subject: Help!!!
Organization: University of Minnesota
Distribution: alt
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 20:53:40 GMT

	Some time ago (about six months) I was given a very nice Juniper
bonsai by my (now former) Girlfriend.  I've faithfully kept it watered and
I've repotted it once, doing some trimming of the roots.

	It's been looking a little bad for a while now.  A few of the newer
sprouts seem to hav died, and a number of the branches are brown at the very
tips.  I'm worried, and I don't have a lot of knowledge on the subject.

	I've been keeping the plant in direct sunlight (south facing window)
and indoors.  We're approaching winter here, and I'm not sure if the tree is
simply doing something seasonal or if it's something else.  I've also never
given it any fertilizer (I'm not sure what to use, or how much.)
	The pot my tree is in is about 2-3 inches deep, maybe 6 inches wide 
and about four inches long.  I've trimmed some of the branches that looked dead
with the sharpest pair of scissors I could find.

	I've looked in the FAQ breifly, but I couldn't find anything...

	Thanks,
	RNA

|RNA (DNA's bad-ass sidekick)   / "Decency?!  I am a pirate!
|Internet: rna@ epx.cis.umn.edu/       I don't _do_ 'decency'!"
|			      /           - Don Carnage
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: How to get trees to start with
From: keith@intaud.usu.edu (Keith Sedgwick)
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 17:11:15 GMT
Organization: Utah State University (USU)

In article <Bw64oC.Fzv@cmptrc.lonestar.org> andy@cmptrc.lonestar.org (Andy Hart) writes:

>falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk) writes:
>>How do you check the roots?  I'd expect to get thrown out of the
>>nursery if I pulled a plant out of its pot to inspect it.
>>

>>What's this? (re air layering)
>>
>  Many trees respond well to air layering.  Basically, it consists of cutting
>  off a ring of bark about an inch wide around the base of a tree limb.  You
>  soak sphagnum moss in b1 solution (superthrive), and pack it around the tree
>  wrapped in (someone help me out here)  cheese cloth or plastic (?).  

	It has to be plastic.  You need to keep it very moist and humid.  
Cheese cloth would dry out too fast.  I've also heard it has to be clear
plastic and not the black, garbage sack type.

					Keith
From: jamiller@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: alt.bonsai FAQ updates
Date: 10 Oct 92 02:04:04 CDT
Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services

> It wouldn't surprise me that China is, in fact, the source of bonsai.  China
> is one of the world's oldest civilizations.  I think much of Japanese 
> culture is derived from the Chinese.  (like some of the martial arts).

Not to mention Japanese language, written anyway.  It should be noted
I think that although Japan borrows things from almost everywhere it
makes it Japanese in the act of assimilating it.  So bonsai is still a
Japanese art for in that sense.  What do you think...

> Happy to see 9 bonsai messages here this morning!
> 
> Later...
> 
-- 
jamiller@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
James Miller

_chicchai .sig no ho ga ichiban iin janai ka..._
             Enlightenment Happens?
From: rkn@Apple.COM (Richard K. Nordin)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Canadian bonsai
Keywords: Great White North juniper snow ice cold
Date: 7 Oct 92 08:07:55 GMT
Organization: Cybernetic Arts

In article <1992Oct5.130459.19534@bnr.ca> rob@bnr.ca (Rob Sutherland) writes:
>
>   So ... are there any Canadian bonsai experts out there?  Can
>a juniper survive a winter indoors?  The basement is cool but
>rather dark so I don't think that's a good idea.

Former Minnesotan, here (now, smart enough to be living in California).

I had a juniper bonsai there. Seeing as how the stock was intended to
be used as a landscape planting, I never hesitated to keep it outdoors
in Winter. It did fine. It was in a protected, southeast corner, of
the house, so the micro-climate there was a wee bit better than totally
unprotected. I usually just set my bonsai pots into the soil (to moderate
soil temperature changes) and made sure to liberally cover them with
a thick layer of snow at the first opportunity. Temperatures went
to -20 F easily, and there was usually a full week or two in January
when the temperature stayed below 0 F. None of my trees, all nursery
stock, seemed to mind the cold.

-- 

Hud Nordin
Cybernetic Arts                rkn@apple.com
Post Office Box 2066           Telephone: 408.248.0377
Sunnyvale, California 94087    Facsimile: 408.248.0416
From: rkn@Apple.COM (Richard K. Nordin)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Help!!!
Date: 15 Oct 92 23:38:35 GMT
Distribution: alt
Organization: Cybernetic Arts

In article <1992Oct13.205340.21638@news2.cis.umn.edu> rna@crystal.med.umn.edu (Ryan Alexander (BMEC)) writes:
>
>	Some time ago (about six months) I was given a very nice Juniper
>bonsai by my (now former) Girlfriend.  I've faithfully kept it watered and
>I've repotted it once, doing some trimming of the roots.
>
>	It's been looking a little bad for a while now.  A few of the newer
>sprouts seem to hav died, and a number of the branches are brown at the very
>tips.  I'm worried, and I don't have a lot of knowledge on the subject.
>
>	I've been keeping the plant in direct sunlight (south facing window)
>and indoors.  We're approaching winter here, and I'm not sure if the tree is
>simply doing something seasonal or if it's something else.  I've also never
>given it any fertilizer (I'm not sure what to use, or how much.)
>	The pot my tree is in is about 2-3 inches deep, maybe 6 inches wide 
>and about four inches long.  I've trimmed some of the branches that looked dead
>with the sharpest pair of scissors I could find.
>
>	I've looked in the FAQ breifly, but I couldn't find anything...

How many brown junipers does this make now? Is it time for a FAQ entry?

My experience is limited. I think I have lost 2 junipers. As I posted
before, if a juniper is brown, it's in deep trouble. Has anyone out there
successfully brought a browning juniper back to health?

I ask because my I caught my second juniper way before brown-ness. Its
needles just looked a little more silvery/less green than normal, and
despite best efforts it croaked. I suspect that by the time most people
spot trouble it is too far gone.

Now, if what you are seeing is some browning of lower, or inside branches,
and the tips of branches still show light green growth, then you are
probably just seeing a normal growth pattern. Older, less productive
branches do lose their needles. If there's no new growth, it's time
for intensive care. I won't repeat the steps. I've seen them posted
before, and any good bonsai reference tells you what to try.

I suspect that this question is popular because of the availability of
mass-produced juniper "bonsai". You see them all over. Frankly, the
quality of these trees is pretty disappointing to me, just like
the mass-produced oil paintings you see. However, maybe they do serve
to introduce more people to the art. They are usually pretty low-cost.
It just pains me that an even better introduction to bonsai would be
to buy a raw juniper (or twelve), at a much lower price, and hack on
it. Really, it's quite easy to make something much prettier than
these mass-produced jobs! And, it's more satisfying.

-- 

Hud Nordin
Cybernetic Arts                rkn@apple.com
Post Office Box 2066           Telephone: 408.248.0377
Sunnyvale, California 94087    Facsimile: 408.248.0416
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Help!!!
From: keith@intaud.usu.edu (Keith Sedgwick)
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 17:07:27 GMT
Distribution: alt
Organization: Utah State University (USU)

In article <1992Oct13.205340.21638@news2.cis.umn.edu> rna@crystal.med.umn.edu (Ryan Alexander (BMEC)) writes:

>        Some time ago (about six months) I was given a very nice Juniper
>bonsai by my (now former) Girlfriend.  I've faithfully kept it watered and
>I've repotted it once, doing some trimming of the roots.

>        It's been looking a little bad for a while now.  A few of the newer
>sprouts seem to hav died, and a number of the branches are brown at the very
>tips.  I'm worried, and I don't have a lot of knowledge on the subject.

Hi Ryan:

	The first thing I would look for is red spider mites.  They love
junipers.  See my recent post about how to identify the little buggers!
Also trimming a juniper with sissors will cause brown needles where 
you made the cut.  You should always pinch your junipers with your
fingers.  This will leave very little damaged needles on the small
branch you are pinching.  

	Another thing I would look at is the style and past growth.
In order to keep juniper branches full and growing in the inside they
need light and air.  If you have any branches that are shading another
one, the one in the shade tends to turn brown.  If you have some
junipers growing outside as shrubs look inside of one and see all the
bare, brown branches.  The inside of one of these shrubs gets very 
little light and air circulation.  Dormant juniper buds need a lot
of light to start to grow.

					Keith
From: gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Ficus again
Date: 16 Oct 92 14:00:22 GMT
Organization: CIS Dept, Univ of Linkoping, Sweden

Thank for all advise for my questions of ficus.

But, EEEEK! My plant tends to change the color of the leaf
from green to yellow and drop the leaf. The loss of foliage is
about 3 leafs a day. Is this common? Too much water or too less?
Too much sunlight or less? I'm worried.
Goran
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Re: Dechlorination of water
From: keith@intaud.usu.edu (Keith Sedgwick)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 20:10:06 GMT
Organization: Utah State University (USU)

In article <1992Oct9.111602.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> jwcoll01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:

>Has anyone ever used dechlorinator to treat water used on bonsai?
>I realize I should use rainwater when possible, but I can't collect
>much in my apartment.  I have some dechlorinator that I use with
>my fish tank, which says "Safe for acquatic animals and plants", can 
>I generalize to bonsai from the word "plants"?

>Thanks in advance.

>Joel Collins
>jwcoll01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
>University of Louisville

Hi Joel:

	If you just want to get rid of the chlorine, just let the water sit 
overnight.  The chlorine will dissipate on its own if it sits for a period 
of time.
					Keith
From: falk@peregrine.Sun.COM (Ed Falk)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: How to get trees to start with
Date: 15 Oct 92 01:03:47 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: peregrine

>I've just been to our local bonsai club's meeting. Today's
>speaker had some things to say on the best way to get trees. In
>order they were:
>
>1.  Plant nurseries
>        Check the root system, as it can be terrible.

How do you check the roots?  I'd expect to get thrown out of the
nursery if I pulled a plant out of its pot to inspect it.

>3.  Aerial layering
>        She said it was surprisingly easy.

What's this?

		-ed falk, sun microsystems
		 sun!falk, falk@sun.com
To be loyal to rags, to shout for rags, to worship rags, to die for rags 
-- that is a loyalty of unreason, it is pure animal (Mark Twain).
From: rkn@Apple.COM (Richard K. Nordin)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
Subject: Things Learned
Date: 16 Oct 92 00:03:21 GMT
Distribution: alt
Organization: Cybernetic Arts

What have you learned about life by practicing the art of bonsai?

I was just thinking about a couple things. I'd be interested in
hearing of other's experience.

I snuck one in a previous posting: Patience is for things you do
not enjoy doing. This is a supposed response from a bonsai master
when asked how he could possibly have the patience to wait years
for a bonsai to become a real work of art. I like that.

Another is the advice I heard in a bonsai class: do not attempt
bunjin style (literati, or the style that "breaks the rules")
until you know the rules. I guess to properly break rules, one
must learn them first. (Hmm, that sounds like a meta-rule that
needs breaking!) That occurred to me recently when I was describing
a "jump cut" in video--another little hobby of mine. A jump cut
shows the same scene from a different angle. It's like taking the
viewer and suddenly shoving them into a different vantage point.
It's usually disorienting to the viewer, and therein also lies
the value of a jump cut. Usually, they are something to be avoided.
But if you are attempting to disorient the viewer, to communicate
that emotion, then a jump cut is, of course, just the thing. I saw
similar rule-breaking in a woodworking magazine, once. A woman built
a beautiful cabinet, and then made it imperfect by driving a large
nail into a surface, and even bending over the nail so it looked
really ugly. It really made you think. The letters the magazine
received were interesting. Many wrote to say she had destroyed a
well-crafted piece of furniture. Others congratulated her on
turning a well-crafted piece of furniture into an artwork. I side
with the second sentiment, but I understand the first. Different
strokes...

Well, I'll go off and think about this topic a little more. I hope
I have something to show for my hobby besides a bunch of cute
little trees.

Can anyone relate other discoveries they've made in the pursuit of
bonsai?
-- 

Hud Nordin
Cybernetic Arts                rkn@apple.com
Post Office Box 2066           Telephone: 408.248.0377
Sunnyvale, California 94087    Facsimile: 408.248.0416
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai
From: dave@alex.com (Dave Quinn)
Subject: Re: ficus
Organization: Alex Technolgies Ltd
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:52:16 GMT

In article <1992Sep25.133945.23283@ida.liu.se>, gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall) writes:
|> I'm a beginner and I shall buy my first plant today. I would
|> try a ficus tree and they say that is a very good beginners
|> bonsai. The price is about $30 and I think thats cheap. Is there
|> anything I realy need to know about this plant? ...

One thing that I think I should point out is that you need to be very 
careful if you choose to wire the plant. Ficus's grow quite quickly and have a
fairly soft bark which means that they are very susceptible to wire damage.

I often see nursery grown ficus's in local bonsai shops which have been 
horribly mutilated with wire which has been left on too long. Actually, this
seems to be quite common on all varieties of trees. I think growers often try
to achieve to much to soon to produce a tree which is recognisable as bonsai to
the general public... anyway, I digress...

The important things to note are:-

a) when buying that tree, check for wire damage

b) be very careful if you wire it yourself

Dave
Xref: sparky alt.bonsai:152 rec.gardens:7266
From: cczcole@mips.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Newsgroups: alt.bonsai,rec.gardens
Subject: Re: SOFTENED water
Date: 8 Oct 92 10:33:31 GMT
Reply-To: cczcole@mips.nott.ac.uk (Marlon Cole)
Organization: Nottingham University

Hi Mike,
    I don't have the answer you're looking for, I'm afraid.
I just wanted to say that I've always been told to use rain water whenever
possible - OK, so I'm fortunate in living in a house where I can install a
big chunky rain barrel; those living in apartments up in the sky somewhere might
not be so lucky, but if you could find a source of rainwater from somewhere...
on the other hand, the stuff they put in rain these days......

Cheers,
          Marlon
------------
Marlon Cole                  email:  cczcole@unicorn.nott.ac.uk or
Systems Programmer                   cczcole@uk.ac.nott.unicorn depending.....
Cripps Computing Centre
University of Nottingham
NOTTINGHAM. NG7 2RD
From: jy29+@andrew.cmu.edu (Jin B. Yong)
Newsgroups: alt.dreams
Subject: Re: More on Sex Dreams
Date: 16 Oct 92 03:50:25 GMT
	<1992Oct15.064631.18405@serval.net.wsu.edu>
Organization: Freshman, IM - MCS/CIT Track, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA


 
>In article <1992Oct14.154012.23525@bnr.ca>, Kathryn writes:
>>Can anyone help me understand why I always wake up when I have
>>a dream which involves having sex?  Every dream is the same.  I'm
>>kissing and getting closer to the man and when we are about to 
>>have sex, I wake up! (bummer).
>>
>>What is your interpretation.
>>
>>Kay

   Let me tell ya, if people didn't wake up when they're about to have
sex in their dreams, people would probably never wake up period.  And if
ya did wake up, you'd probably be too tired to get up so ya go back to
sleep (& luckily dream some more)!  Or it may be your ID is toooo
inadaquate too handle it or ya may be scared that you'll find out sex
might not be all that its cracked up to be (NOT!).
Newsgroups: alt.dreams