HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 17:57:55 GMT

DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET writes
> Whenever I rip hardwoods
> against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut. ...
> I use a 60 tooth blade...

Raise the blade and feed more quickly. 

Raising the blade does two things:
1) Allows sawdust to escape the blade gullets.
2) Reduces the amount of time the teeth are contacting the wood.

Feeding more quickly does #2.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com

PS: Make sure you're using a blade guard to cover the projecting blade.
From: drand@spinner.osf.org (Douglas Rand)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Grizzly question answered, thanks.
Date: 23 Jul 92 21:34:28 GMT
	<1992Jul23.154423.23653@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>
Distribution: usa
Organization: Open Software Foundation

In article <1992Jul23.154423.23653@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:

   In article <1992Jul23.114159.6818@clpd.kodak.com> porcelli@serum.kodak.com writes:

   >I believe I receivied this information from a sales person at a local tool store.  Almost every 10 in. contractors style saw is made in the same Tiawaneese factory by a company called Rexon.  This includes the Powermatic Artisan and Delta.  I doubt if you
   > can find a saw at this level that is actually made in the US.  I own the Grizzly and have been very happy with it.  I had no problems putting it together and everything was pretty well adjusted right out of the box.  

   >Rocco Porcellio
   >porcellio@serum.clpd.kodak.com

   I also own one of the Grizzly 10" saws (bottom of the line). It performs well
   and I feel it's well worth the money. Much better than the equally expensive
   Delta I had before.

   I did have to elongate the mounting holes in one of the table wings.

My two cents as well.  I own it,  use it and like it.  I had one 
problem which Grizzly took care of at their expense.  The person
I talked to was courteous and helpful.


--
Douglas S. Rand <drand@osf.org>		OSF/Motif Dev.
Snail:         11 Cambridge Center,  Cambridge,  MA  02142
Disclaimer:    I don't know if OSF agrees with me... let's vote on it.
Amateur Radio: KC1KJ
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: dmiller@rodan.acs.syr.edu (Daniel Miller)
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Distribution: world, na, usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 08:54:01 EDT

In article <1992Jul21.192129.461@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
>>>> Question about handcutting dovetails....
>>> Do you have a bandsaw or a tablesaw?
>> Whats your point?
>
>The point is that I have a relatively quick and easy way to make such dovetails
>with either table saws or bandsaws doing most of the work for you...   you end
>up doing the clean up and fitting by hand,  but most of the hard work is down 
>by Reddi Kilowatt.    I described it here a year or so ago, and several other
>people commented that they did it the same way,  or had read articals
>from professional woodworkers teaching them how to do it that way.

[some stuff deleted]
>
>
>You could have simply answered "Yes" or "No",  that would have been quicker.
>Why did you hedge and avoid a simple direct question?   Afraid I was with
>the IRS and we were going to audit you if you said yes,  or that I was going to
>berate you if you said yes?
>
>Sheesh,  try to help somebody and all you get is defense posturing.  Bugger
>that.   Well,  go figure it out on your own then.
>
>grump grump grump

First, check the attribs, you'll find it was me, not the original
poster that sarcastically replied to your posting.

Second, when replying to someone who asked how to cut dovetails by
hand (which I am also interested in) by asking whether certain 
expensive power tools are available implies a level of 'snootiness',
or at least a lack of interest in the original question. 

On the other hand, other people (even myself and maybe the original
poster (sorry for not keeping track) might be interested in your 
methods (we weren't all here a year ago...) so a note to the effect that
it is available (archives??? or e-mail perhaps) would have been
much more useful

I thnak you for making your point clear, and will sleep soundly
tonigt :-)

Hoping the cats keep clear of your sawdust,
Dan.
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel J. Miller  SUNY College of Environmetal Science and Forestry
dmiller@rodan.acs.syr.edu
"A peaceful place, or so it looks from space
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Grizzly question answered, thanks.
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 15:44:23 GMT

In article <1992Jul23.114159.6818@clpd.kodak.com> porcelli@serum.kodak.com writes:

>I believe I receivied this information from a sales person at a local tool store.  Almost every 10 in. contractors style saw is made in the same Tiawaneese factory by a company called Rexon.  This includes the Powermatic Artisan and Delta.  I doubt if you
> can find a saw at this level that is actually made in the US.  I own the Grizzly and have been very happy with it.  I had no problems putting it together and everything was pretty well adjusted right out of the box.  

>Rocco Porcellio
>porcellio@serum.clpd.kodak.com

I also own one of the Grizzly 10" saws (bottom of the line). It performs well
and I feel it's well worth the money. Much better than the equally expensive
Delta I had before.

I did have to elongate the mounting holes in one of the table wings.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | When you're working on a project and drop
                    | something, it will never reach the ground.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor)
Subject: Re: Corian tops for router tables
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:32:05 GMT

 * Since this is a bit ridiculous (the tabletop costs more than the
 * PC 630 router), does anybody else have any good ideas?  I really
 * liked the looks of the Corian, but not the price...

Here's some info I saved about 12 months ago. I got some samples from 
these guys, and they looked good.

 ** ... recently wanted Corian, but bought a material that was
 ** indistinguishable from Corian Sierra, except mayber harder and more
 ** scratch resistant, fabricated by a local company here in Austin,
 ** named Custom Quality Marble +1 512 282 5680. IT COST 1/3 AS MUCH AS
 ** CORIAN(TM) ...

-Mike
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 20:19:26 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.203739.2158@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>,
patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie) writes:

> Assuming that the distance *is* the same, then you may be extending the
> blade too much. It's not a good idea to extend the saw blade much past the
> surface of the wood. Extend the blade just far enough that the teeth
> stick out about 1/16" through the wood.

When I was at a woodworking show about a couple of months ago the rep from
Forrest (makers of expensive carbide blades) said that this conventional
wisdom is not true for carbide blades.  He said it is better to have the 
blade prodtrude by about an inch as it gives the carbide tips more time out 
of the wood to cool down.

			-Pete-

* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* Path:{philabs|csun|psivax}!ttidca!bellas  or  bellas@ttidca.tti.com      *
From: nicks@mpd.tandem.com (Nick Silva)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Date: 24 Jul 92 13:08:47 GMT
Reply-To: nicks@disco.UUCP (Nick Silva)
Organization: /etc/organization

In article <92205.164804DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET> DMEJJ@CUNYVM.BITNET writes:
>I was wondering if anyone else has this problem.  Whenever I rip hardwoods
>against the rip fence, the wood gets burn marks along the cut.  
>.......
>I would welcome any advice.
>

Dan, 
I sometimes get this problem too. ONE, it could be an indication that 
it is time to clean your saw blade. The grit build up will cause it to burn.
I use good old EasyOff to clean my blades. It works well and is a lot cheaper
than the off the shelf blade cleaners (which are probably easyoff in a
differnt can). Two, it may be a matter of running the wood through TOO slow.
Listen to the blade as you run the wood thru. I listen for the sound of where
it just drops down in pitch. The same is true for when I run stuff on my
router table. Good Luck.
							Nick S.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: clock movements: where do I find them???
Date: 21 Jul 92 20:47:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.

I get a catalog from Mason And Sullivan which has clock kits and guts
from cheasy little quartz jobs up to multi-thousand dollar Grandfather
mechanisms.  I've ordered some stuff from the, they seem OK.  There
are other people who sell the quartz works (as a matter of fact local
outlets like Total Crafts have them).

What you are describing (self contained clock that goes in round hole)
and generally referred to as "fit-ups."  The M&S catalog is at home,
I'll send you the address in a subsequent message.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover)
Subject: Re:      Re: Dust Collectors ???
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 14:25:26 GMT
Distribution: na
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

In article <01GMX1VQHVJ68Y4ZN1@IRIS.uncg.edu>,         Steve Mosier <MOSIER@UNCG.BITNET> writes:
|> roger (rhoover@watson.ibm.com) writes:
|> 
|> > the gate.  I use ADS 4" drain tubing with flexible dryer hose on the machine
|> 
|> I'm not sure what ADS 4" drain tubing is, but it sounds like plastic/PVC.  If
|> so, a word of caution:  sawdust & chips moving through plastic generate
|> beaucoup amounts of static electricity, as does the same moving through many
|> kinds of flexible dryer hose.  This static electricity can help clog the pipes,
|> as well as trigger a dust explosion in the shop.  This is why most dust
|> collection systems use metal pipe (and ground it).

ADS tubing is the black plastic semi-flexible drain tubing that has
corrugated ribs about every half inch or so.  It is sold in big coils
at most hardware stores/home centers.  I paid $28 for 100 ft.

I have been using ADS tubing with dryer hose for nearly a year now and
have been able to discern zero static buildup on the pipe.  None.  If
you are paranoid, however, all you need to do is run a grounded bare
wire down the tubes as detailed in fine woodworking (and probably other
mags as well).

roger
rhoover@watson.ibm.com
From: tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Benches
Date: 29 Jul 92 00:32:50 GMT
Organization: University of Arizona UNIX Users Group


Well,   I just bought 350 BF of 16/4 white oak that has been air drying
for 8 years...  (random width 6" to 12")  WOW!   (Now all I have to
do is convince my wife we really don't need more than cheese and beans
in our diet).

My thought is to build a workbench.  So I have been reading books like
the color glossy "Workbenches" from Taunton, and Roy Underhill's book,
etc..   Just thought I'd also solicit comments from the net.  Some
questions you might want to think about:

What do you have?
Did you build it?
What really works great for you?
What really FAILS for you?
What would you make if you had it to do, or to do over?
Do you like tail vices for planing?
What about shoulder vices, record vices, leg vices, etc...
What special purpose jigs did you build into your bench?
Storage cabinets or open?
Portable?
Size?
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 29 Jul 1992 16:16:41 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Benches

      I built my bench some 15 years ago, I am not sure if FWW was around
at that time, anyway the top is Yellow Pine 2x4's on edge with front and back
aprons of 2x12.  The top is about 7'x3' and I cannot tell you how many 2x4's
that translates to.  They are held together with 1/2" 6 1/2 in tie rods
across the bench, nuts have oversize washers and are recessed into the aprons.
Legs are 4x4, two front to back "feet" from 4x4 and front and back strechers
from 2x4, all is held together with carriage bolts.  The top was hand planed
flat starting with a Scrub plane, ending with a 22" jointer, the other parts
were just belt sanded.  The back 8 or so ins. is a "well" about 1/2 ins
lower and there is a back rack cut out for chisels etc.  The whole thing
was well soaked with Linseed Oil.  I am also a lefty and have the largest
Record vise on the front left end, a couple of holes for round dogs to drop
in.  It has worked out well, had to dismantle it for moving three times, the
last required splitting the top into two sections, it is still very solid
and it only took about 4 hrs to retrue the top after reassemble.  The
Yellow Pine has held up remarkable well though I have had to replace my
wooden vise face, also 2" Yellow Pine.  The front apron has been very
usefull, it is easy to clamp long pieces to it so that I can edge plane/
route/whatever 8' to 10' pieces very easily.  As it is open underneath it
has become a storage area for the scrap box etc.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: daved@convex.com (David Dorfman)
Subject: Re: Ryobi BT3000 table saw opinions?
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:36:18 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

I have a BT-3000. I've owned it for about six months with mixed
impressions. On the positive side it is a well designed tool with
good cross cutting capabilities. The blade is nice and it comes with
a full set of required fences. As it sets up it can handle some pretty longe boards 
for cross cutting.

The nicest thing about the BT is it's compact set up. It is mounted on wheels and can 
be easily moved, allowing placement in a room with a single long axis of entry/exit
to/from the blade for both cross and rip cutting.

I don't regret buying it, but if I had a large workshop I would pick the
Delta today. Plan on spending 550.00 for everything.

On the negative side there are a number of features which do not perform 
as advertised.

1) the cross cut table has some amount of play in it. If you are a 
perfectionist you will be constatnly adjusting it and checking it. It slides
on teflon pads which probably will wear over the years. It does produce nice
crosscuts when well adjusted, but don't expect it to stay in adjustment.

2) The dust removal system claims 90% dust removal. I don't think so. The
exit from the dust removal is easily clogged and I find sawdust everywhere.

3) My general perception is that this saw will not be around in ten years
   wheras a delta would easily last that long.


   Hope this helps
   Dave

From: shaw@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1992 14:51:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Home Brew Dust Collector
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

In rec.woodworking, lastra@betelguese.cs.unc.edu (Anselmo Lastra) writes:

> In article <63488@hydra.gatech.EDU> walt@cc.gatech.edu (W. B. Ligon III) writes:
> >
> >- Can I vent the blower back into the room, or should I vent it outside?
> 
> Is there any disadvantage to venting outside the shop (aside from extra
> tubing)? Perhaps creating a big draft, but it seems you'd have the same
> problem within the shop.

	If you blow 800 cfm of heated air out of your house during
cold weather, you can expect to work harder heating your shop. I work
in my garage and wouldn't think of loosing any warm air. Filter the
dust, but keep your warm air.

					-Shaw

p.s. I'd think that AC in hot weather would raise the same arguments,
but I don't have AC at home.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: removing laminate
Date: 27 Jul 92 08:36:41 EST
Distribution: usa
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center

Djamschid Mehrpuyan (mehrpuya@rtsg.mot.com) writes:
> What I would like to do is remove the brown laminate and put on
> white laminate.  What is the best and easiest method  
> I should use to remove the brown laminate ?  Should I use a heat 
> gun ?
-- 

No, use lacquer thinner and a brush. It will cut the contact cement
nicely.


- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bonaccio@griffin (Tony Bonaccio)
Subject: Re: software for woodworkers
Organization: University of Vermont, EMBA Computer Facility
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 01:41:24 GMT


Check the most recent issues of Fine Woodworking magazine.  There was an 
article on this subject about 3 or 4 issues ago.  I found it very interesting;
it dealt mostly with CAD in the workshop but also mentioned the panel cutting 
programs.

There's also a forum on Compuserve where this stuff is talked about at some 
length.  GO CRAFTS as I recall, then check out Library 13.

Tony
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Trouble Ripping Hardwoods
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 20:41:56 GMT

In article <2114@devnull.mpd.tandem.com> nicks@disco.UUCP (Nick Silva) writes:

>I use good old EasyOff to clean my blades. It works well and is a lot cheaper
>than the off the shelf blade cleaners 

A trick I picked up at a woodworking show last year is to soak old blades
in household ammonia overnight to clean them. I promptly dropped every one
I own in a bucket. It works real well.

Your post reminds me, though, that I omitted to do my router bits. I'll
do them this weekend.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you maintain your motorcycle yourself,
                    | eventually you will have two of them.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (PETE MARTIN)
Subject: Dust Collectors ???
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: ORGANIZATION??...Who has time to be organized?
Distribution: na
Date: 28 Jul 1992 08:13 EST  

My office mate is searching for a dust collector.  We are both totally 
confused about everyone's different specs.  The same "looking" 1 HP models
have vastly different "air suction capacities."  What gives?  Most of the 
prices seem to be in line, Grizzly's seems $20-30 cheaper.

What kind of collectors do the netters own?  Any comments?  I don't have 
a current copy of the FAQ if there is any pertinent info it.
Thanks.

***************************************************************************
* Pete Martin                                                             *
* NASA Lewis Research Center                                              *
* Cleveland, OH                                                           *
* (216)433-8731         afmartp@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov                      *
***************************************************************************

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: obrien@coag.serum.kodak.com (John O'Brien (x37279))
Subject: router vs shaper
Summary: advise needed on bebefits of router vs. shaper
Reply-To: obrien@serum.kodak.com
Organization: Clinical Products Division, Eastman Kodak Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 17:24:30 GMT

I have been contemplating purchasing a shaper for doing things like making 
raised panel doors as well as all the things you would do with a router in a table. I have been looking at the delta shaper( 1 1/2 hp) and the AMT motorless
models. These tools sell for around $300. My concern is whether or not these
"small" shapers have enough guts to power the big cutters required to make raised panel doors. It seems to me I used to have power problems on my old Sears
1 1/2 hp router and was wondering if these shapers would be power starved.
Is there torque differences between the 1 1/2 hp routers and the 1 1/2 hp motors on things like shapers, table saws, etc? 
	This brings me to my next question. I  can purchase a 3 hp shaper for about $1600. This is out of the question. If I need to have the 3 hp worth of power, why wouldn't I just build a good table and mount in it a 3 hp router. I
can do all this for about $300. What will the shaper offer that the router/table
cannot as far as power, versatility goes?

	If I get enough responses, I will report the results on the net for you!
Thanks!!!

John O'Brien
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: chuck@hans.mit.edu (Chuck Parsons)
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1  
Organization: MIT Lab for Nuclear Science
Distribution: world, na, usa
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 19:30:00 GMT

In article <1992Jul22.150026.19338@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com      writes...
>In article <1992Jul22.141313.5245@evolving.com> mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier) writes:
> 
>>8 tails in the joint. The first day, I spent 10 hours BENT OVER the 
>>table saw making the initial cuts. My back was extremely sore. It took another
>>20 hours to clean up with a chisel. They came out very good, but it still
>>took a lot of time to clean em up perfect with the chisels. Granted, this
>>is much easier than doing everything by hand, but it's not as easy as the
>>articles I've read (FWW on joinery) make it sound.
>>
>>After that project, I bought a 24" Leigh jig.
> 
>I certainly don't blame you, but it takes me an average of about 15
>minutes to cut each tail by hand. Mine never see the table saw.
> 

  But he had 6 drawers with 8 tails in each joint. Since he had at
least two dovetail joints per drawer (maybe 4) that is 96 tails.
at 15 minutes per tail that is 24 hours. That's only 20% faster
than 30 hours. I assume with the Leigh jig he could do them all in
3-4 hours.

 Granted you have a good point that the table saw apparently
isn't saving him any time. 8-)



Regards, Chuck@pierre.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: matth@progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper)
Subject: Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Organization: Progress Software Corp.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 17:16:04 GMT

  I worked two summers in a skylight/window front factory doing assembly and
such deeds.  All the drills there had keyless chucks.  I never had a problem
with it loosening up, bits slipping out, or loosening it back up in order to
change the bit.  

  They make it easier.  I had to drill hundreds of holes each day to put
the curtain wall sections together.  Would have taken much longer if I had to
screw with a keyed chuck. I've been thinking of getting one myself for my
Milwaukee, but just haven't gotten around to it.

-Matth

          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)  
--
          Matthew J. Harper ! Progress Software Corp. ! {disclaimer.i}         
   God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews !-)