From: hood@hpcvcco.cv.hp.com (David Hood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: router vs shaper
Date: 22 Jul 92 00:43:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvca.1992Jul22.004338.9889
Distribution: usa
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA

> With all the discussion of routers versus shapers for raised panel work,
> I'd like to point out the fact that simple raised panels can be easily cut
> on either a radial arm saw or a table saw. By simple, I mean straight sided
> angles here.


You need not be limited to straight sided panels on the table saw.  Attached
is a letter I recently sent to FWW.  The actual letter had much better drawings
than the attached ASCII graphics!

David Hood
hood@hp-pcd.cv.hp.com




    Methods
    Fine Woodworking
    PO Box 5506
    Newtown, Conn. 06470-5506


    In FWW #94 ("Machining Raised Panels"), Joe Beals rightly states
    that concave bevels provide a better fit in the frame than the
    straight bevels usually made on the table saw; however, he does
    not describe how to make concave bevels without a shaper/router.

    I have had good results using a modified cove cut on the table saw.
    The panel is run on edge past a dado set using a high fence set at
    a slight angle to the blades.  I prefer the look of the profile "A"
    in the attached drawing; this profile is produced by setting the
    blade height to the distance from the edge of the field to the
    edge of the panel with the fence set the thickness of the panel's
    edge from the near edge of the blades and twice the panel's total
    thickness less the panel's edge thickness from the far edge of
    the blades (measured perpendicular to the fence).

    For example for an 8" wide field in a panel 10" wide and 3/8"
    thick to fit a 1/8"slot:

        Blade height: 1"
        Fence from front of blades: 1/8"
        Fence from rear of blades: 5/8" ( 2 x 3/8" - 1/8")

    Moving the fence closer to the rear of the blades will produce the
    profile "B" and moving the fence farther from the rear of the blades
    while raising the blades will produce profile "C".

    I usually use a scraper, ground to the appropriate curve, to clean
    up the curves.

    Because of the angled nature this cut does not usually require a
    zero clearance insert; however, the tall fence and a couple of
    feather boards can greatly enhance of this operation.

    I feel that this is a poor description of what I consider to be
    a very simple yet effective method of raising panels so please
    feel free to edit this description in anyway you may deem
    appropriate if you can make use of this technique.

    Regards,




    David A. Hood
    4793 NW Virginia Place
    Corvallis, OR 97330

    Home: (503)753-1727
    Work: (503)750-2579

    P.S. In the same issue Paul Schurch in "A Butterfly Expansion Table"
    states: 'For greater extension capabilities, the table could include
    multiple butterfly leaves.'  How is this possible without the leave/s
    having the ability to slide on the pivots by at least the thickness
    of their support?  A situation which would seem to compromise the
    strength of the table.




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    Figure C)
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