HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Weak windshield-wiper motor...
Date: 15 Oct 92 19:25:18 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University


Having received a great deal of helpful hints for thinking through
my glow-plug problem on the ol' 1977 MB, I'd like to push my luck
and see if any cogitations on a problem with the windshield wipers.

As I've said before, I like to think about these things for awhile,
turn them over in my mind, read the manual, and get advice, before
actually *doing* anything, for the simple reason that whatever I
do in a hurry usually turns out to be wrong :-)  (The most horrible
examples usually involve cutting something :-(

My windshield wiper has three speeds (intermitent, slow, and fast).
It works only on fast.  Even then, it works only when there is
no friction.  Now this is not so bad, because when it is raining,
there is no friction, and it works ok.  So I can live with it.  But
I'd like to fix it.

Thinking about it, it seems to me that either (a) the voltage at the
motor itself is low, or (b) the motor is "weak".  (I don't have the
slightest idea whether or not there is such a thing as a "weak"
motor, by the way).  I'm going to check the voltage (when I get home),
but since I'm ready to initiate that particular project, thought I
would see if anyone has any thoughts.

Thanks for any hints.

John

--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, Florida
   "America was largely populated by early ethnic cleansing movements
            in Europe, with England leading the way."
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wcr@unislc.uucp (William Rankin)
Subject: Acvice on Ford 460V8
Organization: Unisys Corporation SLC
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 17:07:07 GMT


I am currently buying a 81 Ford van-type motorhome with a 460CID
(I think) V8.  Does anyone have any experience with this engine and
the transmission used on these? Is there anything I should be
alerted to as far as weeknesses or early failures in the power train.
Any comments are welcome.

BR
From:  (Eric Youngblood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Calling F-body Suspension experts
Date: 8 Oct 92 21:53:50 GMT
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx

In article <5608@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com>, simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
|> In article <1992Oct02.194027.19898@bnr.ca>,  (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> > I am looking for anyone who knows how to tune 69-81 firebird/camaro
|> > suspensions. The problem I am having is during the first 60 feet of
|> > acceleration.  The right rear tire breaks loose while the left rear
|> > does not.  I understand that the torque from the engine loads down
|> > the left rear wheel and unloads the right wheel reducing its grip.
|> 
|> A very common problem. The things to do would be:
|> 
|> 	Remove the rear antisway bar (very important).
|> 	Relocate the battery to the right side of the trunk.
|> 	Use stickier tires.
|> 	Get a positraction rear axle.
|> 	Install traction bars or ladder bars.
|> 	Use drag racing type shocks on the front end (not for street cars).
|> 
|> Using weight jacking techniques will help (or just put a sandbag in the
|> right side of the trunk), but this is masking the problem. It will also screw
|> up your cornering balance unless you always remember to undo the weight
|> jacking for street driving. I guess this kind of applies to my first
|> suggestion too -- removing the rear antisway bar will allow a lot more body
|> roll and it will seem like the back end is floating all over if you corner
|> hard on the street, but the live axle isn't too badly affected by body roll.
|> Using a trans-am WS6 or larger FRONT bar will help to compensate.
|> 
|> 		Mark
|> 

This has got me thinking... (scary, isnt it? :^))

1. A RWD solid axle vehicle torques the rear axle, thus loading the left wheel
   and unloading the right wheel.

2. The driver sits on the left side. (adding 150-200 lbs to left side suspension)
   Estimate 70% left & 30% on the right side. --> ~115 lbs more on left side.

3. The battery sits on the left side (This particular fbody anyway, 40lbs?)

Seems to me that my vehicle is already weight biased on the left side. Adding
items 2 & 3 above thats about 155 lbs before touching the gas!  

Hmmmm ......
Doesnt look too good.

Any suggestions?

$0.02
Ericy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Tires : Slicks vs. Treaded: Help Please
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 16:53:05 GMT

In article <9210082253.AA08091@wotke.vicor.com>, danapple@vicor.com writes:
>
>Note:
>I know nothing about tires.  I know nothing about friction.  I know
>nothing about desks.  I'm just this dude with some free time and an
>imagination.  This whole message might be filled with untruth.  It is
>not guaranteed.  Take with a bunch of salt, but don't flame.  Just
>correct me if I'm wrong.
>
>> bassek@lesti.hut.fi (Basse Kankkonen) writes:
>> In <BvpsB1.Gp6@news.cso.uiuc.edu> cjp53999@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Cory James Padfi
>> eld) writes:
>> 
>> It ocurred to me that the formula of friction is F=u*m*g
>> (u=constant of friction,m=mass,g=acc. 9.81m/s^2)
>> This means that the traction is not depending on the area.
>> BUT the constant u is depending on the temperature, and a tire with less
>> area heats up faster and it will decrease the lifetime of the tire and the 
>> grip of course.
>> (Thats why cars don't use bicycle wheels!!!)
>
>True, but tire "grip" isn't just friction.  
>
>(I'm reaching here...)
>
>"Grip" is also caused by the tire surface conforming to the road
>surface at a macroscopic level.  A race tire will hold stones in the
>rubber.  All the way around the circumference, even where the
>component of *g* holding the stone onto the tire is 0.  Friction does
>not account for this.  The stone should fall back onto the ground if
>only friction was occuring.
>
>There is a big difference between this surface conformation and
>friction, I think.  When you slide your hand along the top of your
>desk, you'd have a hard time pushing it.  But push on the side of the
>desk, and all of a sudden you can apply enough force to push the desk.
>This is not friction.
>
>The tire conforms such that it can push on the sides of the
>irregularities in the pavement.
>
>I've heard that "soft" tires are better in rain than "hard" tires.  I
>believe this is because the *u* you mention decreases drastically, but
>the force exerted due to conformation remains high.  Those of you who
>could move your desks with your hand against the top should now try
>spilling water on it and trying again.
>
>There certainly may be other factors coming into play that I know
>nothing about.
>
>> Basse
>
>Daniel I. Applebaum  |  danapple@vicor.com  |  1986 Celica Supra "NVR DNF"

As an aside, you did indeed hit on a point with high performance rubber.

Generally high-performance tires use softer rubber compounds which wear
out far more quickly in order to increase 'G' ratings on cornering.

One of the sad truths; the more you pay for a tire, the faster it will wear
out :)

Alex




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rcg1597@zeus.tamu.edu (GUYNN, RICHARD CARL)
Subject: Re: Saturn corrosive coolant rumor
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 18:36:00 GMT

In article <1992Oct16.162433.5022@Arco.COM>, ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562) writes...
>I just heard that Saturn pulled something like 5000 cars from their line
>due to the discovery that their cooling systems were filled with some
>kind of corrosive chemical.  Is this true? 
	Yes it WAS true.  This event occured over a year ago (give or take a 
couple of months).  The anti-freeze supplier sent the wrong stuff and it got put 
in thew cars before anyone realized it (I think the shipment was actually marked 
as the right stuff -- but it obviously wasn't correct)

 What happened to the automobiles
>after they were pulled?                     
> 

	I really don't know.  They gave everyone who had bought one of these 
vehicles brand new replacement cars.  I would guess they probably salveged what 
parts they could and scrapped (or recycled) the rest.

Rick

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: Cessna@kn5f.jsc.nasa.gov (Mark T. Evert)
Subject: Re: Ford Escort Problems
Organization: Loral Space Information Systems
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 21:05:27 GMT

In article <1bf6t1INNf29@bigboote.WPI.EDU> jayg@wpi.WPI.EDU (Jay Giurleo) 
writes:
>  I own a 1986 Ford Escort.  I was speaking with a mechanic today who
> mentioned that at around 60K miles, bad (terminal) things might
> start happening to my engine.  Specifically, he mentioned a chronic
> problem with timing belts.  Can someone comment on this for me? If this
> truly is a problem, what's the best method for fixing it?

Replace it...the timing belt that is.  It's really not that big a deal, 
but it is a big deal if it breaks as your valve train will likely be 
damaged.

Mark T. Evert
Friendswood, TX

My opinions are strictly my own.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: eap@everest.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
Subject: Re: Ford Escort Problems
Organization: Center for Integrated Systems, Stanford University, California
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 92 23:51:36 GMT

In article <1992Oct16.162432.3376@noose.ecn.purdue.edu> rjwade@rainbow.ecn.purdue.edu (Robert J. Wade) writes:
>In article <1992Oct13.210527.8742@aio.jsc.nasa.gov> Cessna@kn5f.jsc.nasa.gov (Mark T. Evert) writes:
>>In article <1bf6t1INNf29@bigboote.WPI.EDU> jayg@wpi.WPI.EDU (Jay Giurleo) 
>>writes:
>>>  I own a 1986 Ford Escort.  I was speaking with a mechanic today who
>>> mentioned that at around 60K miles, bad (terminal) things might
>>> start happening to my engine.  Specifically, he mentioned a chronic
>>> problem with timing belts.  Can someone comment on this for me? If this
>>> truly is a problem, what's the best method for fixing it?
>>
>>Replace it...the timing belt that is.  It's really not that big a deal, 
>>but it is a big deal if it breaks as your valve train will likely be 
>>damaged.
>>
>>Mark T. Evert
>>Friendswood, TX
>>
>>My opinions are strictly my own.
>
>WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!  1986 escort engines are freewheeling...no damage when it
>snaps   i know...my 86 escort timing belt snapped at 70k miles.  no damage..
>just a tow to the ford dealer and $100 and i was on my way.

Yes, the '86's are.  The older ones will clatter when the belt breaks.
I'm not sure of the exact year they fixed this one....
From: benjamin-goldsteen@uokhsc.edu (Benjamin Z. Goldsteen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oil pressure is really high at start
Date: 11 Oct 92 19:09:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: constell.1992Oct11.190933.26562
Organization: University of Oklahoma HSC, R&E Computing
Originator: news@essex.ecn.uoknor.edu


     My parents have a 1990 Lumina APV which i was borrowing the other
day.  I noticed that when I start it, the oil pressure is like 60 psi or
more.  The idle also seems high, too.  Anyway, sometimes it will drop
down to about 40 psi after some idling.  When they first got it however,
I remember all the guages seem to center -- the oil pressure would be
about 40 when the car was under load, 30 at idle; the temp guage
centered, etc.  Now, though, the temp guage seems to be at about the
1/4th mark (whatever that means).

     The car is a 1990 Lumina APV as I said.  It has a 3.1L FI V6, 3
speed auto.  The car has a lot of miles -- over 50,000 (just over
warrenty!).

     What does this sound like?  I am thinking maybe there are some oil
clogs.

Thanks
P.S.You know, my Mom backed into this thing and the entire rear window
shattered.  The thing hit the rear gate of the car, but I guess there
must have been some torsion on the glass.  Anyway, I think they said
somebody thought the repair would be $1200!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Buick 3.8L to 3800
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:06:40 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Doug Stevens (stevensd@mentor.cc.purdue.edu) wrote:
: 
: The torch converter went out in my dads car.  He thought he could make it to the
: shop about 20 miles away.  Trying to get the car to the shop he burned out the
: motor (at least thats what the mechanic told him).

How do you burn out a motor?  Sounds like a 2nd opinion is in order...


Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.antique
From: adh@cbnews.cb.att.com (andrew.d.hay)
Subject: Re: Spark plug specs and old cars
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1992 11:32:59 GMT

In article <sffcu.8@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu> sffcu@cuais01.cc.columbia.edu (Stewart Feuerstein) writes:
"In article <1992Oct15.174409.14081@miki.pictel.com> harling@miki.pictel.com (Dan Harling) writes:
">I was always under the impression that the heat range was at least
">related to the length of the plug; i.e., how far into the heads they
">extend.
[]
"	Daniel,
"	The threads should be the same,  I have heard that longer threads can
"cause problems with the piston hitting the plug and also with the sharp 
"threads becoming very hot and causing preignition.

also, the threads can carbon up, doing *major* damage to the heads
when you remove the plugs.
this was a standard warning to vw beetle mechanics: *not* to substitute
1/2" (12.7mm) reach plugs for 12mm (.472") reach plugs.

"                                                    As I understand it the 
"heat range is determined by the heat transfer characteristics of the 
"insulator (how thick or thin it is).  The length of the insulator and tip 
"(extended tip) can also have a bearing on the heat range.  However I have 
"always thought that it was all taken into account in the heat range number.  
"So that a 14 extended tip plug will run about as hot as a 14 non-extended 
"tip.

gibes with what i know...  extended-tip plugs are supposed to run
cleaner because they're more exposed and closer to the combustion
center, not because they're hotter.

-- 
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Andrew Hay	|	I am not an expert,				       |
a_d_hay@att.com	|			 but I play one on the Internet!       |
		+--------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hamachi@adobe.com (Gordon Hamachi)
Subject: Need Help Diagnosing Soft Brake Pedal
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1992 19:10:44 GMT

I need help diagnosing a problem with my brakes.  The brakes usually feel fine,  
but sometimes the pedal feels soft and sinks to less than 2 inches from the  
floor before the brakes engage.  So far, I haven't had any problem stopping.

I tried bleeding the brakes but that didn't have any effect.

Since they are self-adjusting brakes (1979 Honda), I tried to adjust them by  
backing up and firmly applying the brakes.  Immediately after doing this the  
brake pedal feels especially firm, but soon gets softer.

It doesn't matter if the brakes are cold or have been driven for a while in the  
city.

The problem comes and goes suddenly.  On one push the brake pedal might be  
firm, and the next time, even a second later, it feels soft.  Then it might be  
firm again.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

--Gordon Hamachi
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Radiator flushing
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 22:16:49 -0500

 SD> >Put in a big bottle of Mr. Clean along with the super radiator flush.
 SD> 
 SD> SORRY!   I'm not about to go playing amateur chemistry set in my 
 SD> radiator!

I'm not recommending anything I haven't tried myself, on all my cars.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Inexpensive engine pre-oilers
From: stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:39:16 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Kansas Computer Science Dept

In article <Bw4IAK.1Lp@fang.att.com> agwiii@fang.att.com (Grayson Walker (660-7949)(12/92)) writes:
>Stefan Reitshamer and Jerry Stubbs wrote:
>
>>>I think a good pre-start heating system would be good. Instead of cranking
>>>the engine, plug your car in at night. At a pre-determined time in the 
>>>morning the engine block heater, the window de-icers, the seat-warmers
>>>and the battery heater would all come on. You could get in, start your
>>>car without worrying about oil gelling, and reduce your idling warm-up,
>>>saving you gas, plugs, etc.  And it would add to your comfort and 
>>>convenience, not detract.
>>>
 
My idea is to pre-warm the car so people will be more comfortable in the
morning, idle their engines less, etc. . . .  Maybe most appropriate for
those without a garage, especially in colder climates.




Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: 4w disc brakes
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 18:20:12 GMT

In article <92Oct8.060955pdt.11571@alpha.xerox.com> Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM writes:

>	"Why do I think this is too much money?"

>Because it *is* too much money!  $970?  For pads & rotors???

unfortunately, one of the side effects of ABS is a very large
increase in parts for the braking system.  in a non-ABS Alfa Milano,
the OE master cylinder is under $200, and a decent aftermarket unit
is under $100.  the ABS master cylinder is over $1000 (a good reason
to replace brake fluid annually.)

>  Sheesh - no
>wonder their name is "Midas".

well, it is well established that Midas gouges on brake work (of course,
they gouge on all work, so at least they're consistent.)

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ems@michael.apple.com (E. Michael Smith)
Subject: Depends! Re: Slick 50 gear oil trashes syncros, NOT
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 23:47:54 GMT

In article <1992Oct14.175316.15862@newsgate.sps.mot.com> RZAA80@email.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott) writes:
>In article <1992Oct13.145453.1@bronco.fnal.gov>, colombo@bronco.fnal.gov writes:
>> UPDATE:  Slick 50 gear oil in tranny trashes syncros, ?.
>> 
>I also put Slick 50 into the Muncie M-21 in my car.  I had trouble
>engaging 1st gear when cold.  First gear works much better cold
>now, but second grinds just a little bit when the tranny is really
>hot, like after a 50 mile ride.  I've got about 5k miles on it with
>the Slick 50 in it now.  Don't know exactly how to interpret the
>results though.  

I think the best way to interpret the results is to realize that 
not all trannys are created equal...  SOME will work fine with
extra lubricity.  Others will balk.

I helped a friend put a high lubricity synthetic oil in the transmission
of a Honda Accord some years ago.  It then developed a bit of a 'snick'
and 'scrunch' sound on engaging second gear.  It got rather hard to put
the car into second (after a few huncdred miles) and he decided that,
at 50k miles, his second gear syncro was going.  He sold the car.

Time passes.  I got a new Honda.  At 50k miles, I changed the tranny
oil (it uses 10w40).  I put in a synthetic.  I get a 'snick' and a 
'scrunch' going into gear ... I remember my friend ...  I ask the local
Honda dealer who said that putting ARCO Graphite in a tranny would 
'ruin the syncros' (I'd used a different synthetic, but also asked
about the ARCO oil at the same time ...).  Then the mechanic said
a very telling thing.  He said "Even though the syncros LOOKED fine
when we tore the tranny down, we had to replace them.".

I went home and put 'rot gut regular oil' in my tranny.  After a few
hundred miles it was back to regular behaviour.  It now has 225k miles
on it, with no problems.

My conclusions?  Honda transmissions expect a particular lubricity
to be there, and they better not have too much of it.  Also, ARCO
Graphite just does what the manufacturer claimed it would do, lubricate
exceptionally well.  I suspect that a tranny flush would have 'cured'
the 'broken' tranny than 'needed new syncros' from the dealer ...

So, back to the original thread:  ANYTHING that increases the 
lubricity of the oil (and things that claim to reduce friction
and wear are claiming to do that) MAY cause SOME transmissions
to have a problem.  You have to find out for the particular
transmission type that you have ...  It does for some, it doesn't
for others.

-- 

E. Michael Smith  ems@apple.COM

'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has
 genius, power and magic in it.'  -  Goethe

I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "Gary A. Woodward" <p00140@psilink.com>
Subject: Re: What kind of belts 'n hoses do you use?
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 10:48:38 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink (3.2)

>DATE:   7 Oct 92 00:24:52 GMT
>FROM:   Jeffrey C Miller <jmiller@afit.af.mil>
>
>Looking for some net.wisdom on good/bad brands of v-belts and
>radiator hoses...anyone have any particularly good or bad
>experiences with a certain brand?
>
>My automotive winterization projects await you replies...I'll
>summarize if there's sufficient interest...
>
>Jeff
>
>-- 
>Jeff Miller,  NH6ZW/N8,  AFA1HE (ex WD6CQV, AFA8JM, AFA1DO)
>AFIT School of Engineering, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH
>"You gotta expect some losses when you fly the heavies, man" -- Jeff Conn
>"No brain, no pain" -- filched from some new movie promo


The specs for the brand called Continental, a german brand,  seem to 
stretch the least after the initial breakin period.  it will stretch less
than 3% after initial stretch during breakin.  I have had good results.

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Inexpensive engine pre-oilers
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 22:58:56 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1992Oct12.203752.25230@ctp.com>, sreit@ctp.com (Stefan Reitshamer) writes:
|> >From: stubbs@hawk.cs.ukans.edu (Jerry Stubbs)
|> >Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 21:38:05 GMT
|> >
|> >I think a good pre-start heating system would be good. Instead of cranking
|> >the engine, plug your car in at night. At a pre-determined time in the 
|> >morning the engine block heater, the window de-icers, the seat-warmers
|> >and the battery heater would all come on. You could get in, start your
|> >car without worrying about oil gelling, and reduce your idling warm-up,
|> >saving you gas, plugs, etc.  And it would add to your comfort and 
|> >convenience, not detract.
|> >
|> I disagree. Your convenience and comfort would definitely be detracted on
|> that one morning when your car catches fire :-)

In case you think this guy is kidding
1) my parents' old Subarus have warnings printed on the visors telling you
not to leave the car idling or it will over heat;
2) I've heard of ?Saabs? ?Volvos? having their heated seats start smoldering
if you leave them going; no it is not covered under warrantee.

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371                                             eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"Daddy, does Mount Mitchell have a name?" -- Tommy, age 4.