HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: adamoski@selkirk.sfu.ca (Robert Adamoski)
Subject: Help re: labelling?
Keywords: FAQ
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 22:30:26 GMT

Greetings, people and thanks for your contributions to this great list!
 
I'm wondering if anyone out there has experience labelling their prized
creations. Personally, I've seldom had any which has lasted long enough
to warrant this step, however I've got a batch of Bock coming off soon
and I thought I'd dress it up for the holidays.
 
Initially, I tried using a water-soluble glue-stick and a plain-paper
label but the result was less than I'd hoped. The paper tended to pucker
and wrinkle. Any suggestions? I use both glass and plastic bottles, but I
don't imagine that would make much of a difference.
 
Any suggestions appreciated.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: c9038523@firebird.newcastle.edu.au (BUCKLEY)
Subject: "Dry" Beer?
Keywords: Recipe Wanted
Organization: Uni of Newcastle, Australia
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 05:06:50 GMT

	I'm after recipe for a crisp, dry beer.  I would appreciate a reference from Cats Meow II or a full recipe.  Otherwise I would appreciate some info on  what makes a beer "dry".

					Thanks
					Mark.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Foam in bottles
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 17:37:39 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.070400.19571@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>
 pieper@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (John Pieper) writes:

>Sorry if this is an FAQ, but is it normal for beer to foam in the bottle
>when bottling?  This happened with the two batches I've made so far.
>Fermentation was definitely completed both times.  The first time I had
>air bubbles in the hose and thought that might be the cause, but taking
>care to exclude bubbles the second time made little difference.  Is this
>caused by siphoning too fast or is it inevitable?

You probably won't notice any oxidation caused by letting the beer foam 
while bottling unless you store it awhile or let it get warm for long.  It 
depends on the style, too.  I made my first lager last winter and some of 
the bottles were really great and others were obviously oxidized.  The only 
explanation I can come up with was my bottling process.

Try to minimize this as much as possible, by using a better-designed filler, 
holding the siphon end higher, etc.

John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
From: brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us (Mike Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Apple Cider
Date: 11 Nov 92 17:24:54 GMT
Organization: The Meltdown - A Team Star BBS

Since I am an extract brewer, and proud of it, it stands to reason that I use a
"quick" recipe for making cider.  I'm pretty happy with it.

But!  A few weeks ago I made four batches of cider.  Two of them came out very
clear, very tasty, very dry.  They were extremely enjoyable, even if they
weren't carbonated (I acutally prefer them that way).  But the other two never
cleared, were very sour and extremely acidic.  What did I do wrong?  How can I
get to have only the two good batches and not the two bad?

NB:  I made two more batches, we'll see how they work.  In one of the batches,
I dropped half a dozen cinnamon sticks, just as an experiment.  I intend to
give them another week or so, at least until they clear, or partially clear. 
Then we'll see.

Mike Wilson
brewer@meltdown.chi.il.us
failte Guinneach
From: pepke@scri.fsu.edu (Eric Pepke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: transporting homebrew
Date: 12 Nov 92 18:19:34 GMT
Organization: Florida State University, but I don't speak for them

I transported a case of Belgian ale across the Atlantic a few months ago 
in checked baggage on the plane.  Here's how I packed it:

1) I got one of those heavy plastic cases with the open tops and put the 
bottles in it, stuffing with a lot of newspaper.

2) I got some of that 1/4 inch pasteboard (found it on the street in a 
skip) and screwed a panel to the top of the case to cover it.  I also 
covered the other 5 sides of the case as well.

3) I put the result in a box with about 2 inches of clearance on all 
sides, stuffed with newspaper.

This may have been overkill, but I didn't want to risk an unpleasant 
surprise.  It worked fine.  Alas, it is all gone now.

Eric Pepke                                    INTERNET: pepke@scri.fsu.edu
Supercomputer Computations Research Institute MFENET:   pepke@fsu
Florida State University                      SPAN:     scri::pepke
Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052                    BITNET:   pepke@fsu

Disclaimer: My employers seldom even LISTEN to my opinions.
Meta-disclaimer: Any society that needs disclaimers has too many lawyers.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: afd@bellcore.com (Alex F. Dietz)
Subject: Re: Hop and priming sugar advice requested
Reply-To: afd@bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 20:05:41 GMT


[Discussion about sugars to use for bottling]

>1 cup of either corn sugar or dried malt extract will make very little 
>difference to the final taste of the beer.  I wouldn't bother using the malt 
>extract because the corn sugar dissolves better, but if you must try it use 
>1.25 cups if dried malt extract.

You'd be awfully surprised what a cup of corn sugar will do to the final
flavor of your beer.  On the flip side, you'd be surprised what a cup of
dry malt (try to match the dry malt to your batch style) can do FOR your
beer.   For bottling, simply do a direct substitute for the corn sugar,
and dump the corn sugar down the toilet.

>The way that one of my friends does his priming is by taking out 3 pints of 
>beer before yeast is added, when he brews it and adds it back to the beer 
>when he's going to prime it.  He speaks very highly of this method,

There is absolutely no better method.  Check out Papazian for details.
You'll never go back once you taste the difference.

-A Dietz
Bellcore, Morristown NJ
afd@hera.cc.bellcore.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: Harry.Johnson@launchpad.unc.edu (Harry Johnson)
Subject: Hop and priming sugar advice requested
Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:29:59 GMT


A friend and I are brewing about our 10th or 12th batch of beer this
Friday, and in reading over some of the posts to this group I have come to
realize that we are pikers.  With that in mind, I have a couple of
questions to ask you WGBs:

1)  This is going to be a batch of Stout, brewed using malt extract from a
local company called American Brewmaster and some liquid yeast.  What are
your suggestions about the quantity of hops, type of hops, and when to add
them during the boil?  I plan to use vacuum packed hops, not the
pelletized stuff.

2) In every batch I've made so far, I have let it ferment in one vessel
and then transferred it to my priming tank, where I've mixed in a quantity
of corn sugar (usually about 2/3 to 1 cup for a five gallon batch).  In
some recent posts on this group, I have seen references to using malt
instead of corn sugar so as not to dilute the batch with non-flavoring
additives.  If I were to use malt, how much would be appropriate for such
a five gallon batch? 

Any advice is appreciated.

Harry
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: lassini@eecae.ee.msu.edu (Stefano Lassini)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Lil' Ol' WineMaking Shop
Date: 10 Nov 92 19:27:16 GMT
Organization: Michigan State University

whg@tellabs.com writes:



>A few months ago a number came across the digest for a place called the
>Lil'Old Winemaking Shop (or some such name) in Sugar Grove IL.  I've been
>unable to find this number which I'd like to give to a new convert who
>lives in that area.  Could some kind soul please pass this info back to
>me?  If you do, you can come over for a HB.

>Thanks,
>Walt
>Walter Gude    ||   whg@tellabs.com

the phone # is (708)557-2523,
address: 4s245 Wiltshire Lane,
	 Sugar Grove, Il 60554

I bought a few supplies from them [I'm just a newbie at homebrewing], but I
am very satisfied with their service.

Have fun,
Stefano
From: chris@critter.East.Sun.COM (Chris Feret - Sun Software Support Engineer - Mt. Laurel NJ)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Apple Cider
Date: 6 Nov 1992 17:10:35 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: chris@critter.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: critter.east.sun.com

Hello All,


Having a local cider press and a great desire to brew up a batch of cinder I come seeking advice.

Last year I tried 5 gallons with 3 lbs of honey and Red Star champagne yeast.  The fermentation went like wild fire with a slightly sulfucic smell then slowed.  I racked it then let it sit for 45 days.
It was still very cloudly and dreary looking. Tasted ok but ...visual enticement would be nice... So I let it go another 45 days... a slight acidic twang.  It did clear a little though.  Finally, we used it in a couple loaves of bread and tossed the rest.

Now, this years crop of apples looks great.   Should I filter it? if so how? or should I resort to bisulfates(sp?).  

This year's plan:
	-Five gallon batch with sulfates and 3 lbs of honey and champagne yeast.
	-Control batch one gallon cider, 3/4 lb of honey, no sulfates and champagne yeast.

Any comment or hints?

Chris
chris.feret@east.sun.com

P.S. Just got back from Beantown where I enjoyed a few(several) Oatmeal Stouts at the Boston Beer Works.  If your in the area it's probaly worth a visit;-)
From: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: egg cider
Date: 5 Nov 92 13:21:28 GMT
Reply-To: cav@bnr.ca (Rick Cavasin)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.

In article <1992Nov4.164957.26042@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, dab@donner.uucp (25853-ballard) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> hey now-  i've got about a gallon of fermenting cider that has developed
|> the distinct odor of rotten eggs.  pretty funky stuff, know what i 
|> mean?  any ideas as to the cause?
|> 
|> 
|> thanks
|> dab
|> 
|> 
|> ===================================================================
|> dave ballard
|> dab@cc.bellcore.com
|> 
|> 

Some yeasts produce sulphur compounds as byproducts (lager yeasts
more than ale yeasts?).  Also, if you used sulphite (campden tablets)
to sterilize your must, it will give off sulphur odour for a while.
Best thing to do is relax, seeing as there's nothing else you can
do.  The odour should dissipate fairly quickly (ie. it should only
be really pronounced during primary fermentation).

Cheers,
Rick C.
From: larrylf@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Larry Lynch-Freshner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Draught?
Date: 5 Nov 92 22:39:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcc01.44730008
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server

'draught' just means its been kegged, it also sometimes means not pastaurized.
A bottled 'draught' means it was conditioned in bulk and sterel filtered into
the bottle.  Most brewers consider kegged beer to taste superior, except in
Belgium, where bottle conditioning reigns supreme!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dhholscl@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (David Holsclaw)
Subject: Orlando, Florida
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 16:05:59 GMT
Organization: Illinois State University
Keywords: Brewpubs, Orlando, Florida

I will be spending some time in Orlando, Florida next week.  Are there any
brewpubs in the area, or other (non-touristtrap) points of interest that I
shouldn't miss (ie. bars, pubs, historical sites ).

Thanks in advance for all of your help.

David Holsclaw (dhholscl@rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu)

-- 
	**********************************************************************

	David H. Holsclaw			Illinois State University
						Applied Computer Science Dept.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: Botulism info
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 17:55:36 GMT

In article 15078@cbnewse.cb.att.com, jimf@cbnewse.cb.att.com (james.r.fehrenbacher) writes:
>
>A book I have on home preserving and brewing says that acid kills botulism.

Liquid, or blotter?

gak

---
I guess there's some things          |      Seems like the more I think I know
I'm not meant to understand          |                 The more I find I don't
Ain't life a riot? Ain't love grand? | Every answer opens up so many questions
Richard Stueven                 gak@wrs.com            ...!attmail!gakhaus!gak

(Come on, guys...I _had_ to ask!  :-)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca (Kevin Crawford)
Subject: Re: Hop and priming sugar advice requested
Organization: Atlantic Canada Opportunities Agency (ACOA)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:45:00 GMT


>1)  This is going to be a batch of Stout, brewed using malt extract from a
>local company called American Brewmaster and some liquid yeast.  What are
>your suggestions about the quantity of hops, type of hops, and when to add
>them during the boil?  I plan to use vacuum packed hops, not the
>pelletized stuff.

In a batch of Cherry Fever Stout from the Papazian book,  I added 1.5 oz of 
Northern Brewer Hop Pellets for the boil and 1/2 oz of hop petals (
willamette) for the finishing touch.  Worked out fine.  

>2) In every batch I've made so far, I have let it ferment in one vessel
>and then transferred it to my priming tank, where I've mixed in a quantity
>of corn sugar (usually about 2/3 to 1 cup for a five gallon batch).  In
>some recent posts on this group, I have seen references to using malt
>instead of corn sugar so as not to dilute the batch with non-flavoring
>additives.  If I were to use malt, how much would be appropriate for such
>a five gallon batch? 

1 cup of either corn sugar or dried malt extract will make very little 
difference to the final taste of the beer.  I wouldn't bother using the malt 
extract because the corn sugar dissolves better, but if you must try it use 
1.25 cups if dried malt extract.

The way that one of my friends does his priming is by taking out 3 pints of 
beer before yeast is added, when he brews it and adds it back to the beer 
when he's going to prime it.  He speaks very highly of this method, but I 
haven't really gotten around to try it yet.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|    Kevin Crawford     |  "I'd rather have a bottle in front of me       |
|(ibiggs@fox.nstn.ns.ca)| then a frontal lobotomy."                       |
|     Halifax, N.S.     |     -- Brian Mulroney (before the operation)    |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: bellr00@DMI.USherb.CA (RICHARD BELLAVANCE)
Subject: Re: "TWIST-OFF" BEER BOTTLES
Followup-To: rec.crafts.brewing
Summary: no problems here
Organization: Universite de Sherbrooke -- Dept. d'Informatique
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 19:16:30 GMT

In article <1992Nov8.021658.10174@news.nd.edu> ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) writes:
>In article <669.180.uupcb@hardgood.com> john.fix@hardgood.com (John Fix)  writes:
>>-> Can "twist-off" top beer bottles be reused for homebrew?  Will
>>-> regular crown caps seal on them and can I then twist them off or do I
>>-> need to use an opener?
>>
>>Just be wary of the strength of the bottle neck.... twist-offs tend to
>>be thinner bottles, and you don't want to end up poking the bottle
>>through your hand when capping.
>
>A friend of a friend bottled a batch recently in twist off type bottles.
>3 didn't seal - 3 too many, IMHO.
>

Here in Quebec, about the only kind of bottles you can find are "Twist-off",
so that's what I use all the time, and I never had any problems.  The only
thing to watch out for is (as said above) not to break the neck of the bottle
when capping (it happened to me once or twice, but then only when I was using
one of those puny hand-held cappers...).

Hope that helps...

===========> Richard "Charlot" Bellavance (bellr00@dmi.usherb.ca) <============
/-----------------------------------------------------------------------------\
|      Only      | You could drown in the right kind of eyes, sink right into |
|   // A M I G A | them and be unaware of what was being done to you until    |
| \X/  makes it  | penis was firmly clasped in vagina.                        |
|      possible! |          - (toughts of) Miles Teg, "The Heretics of Dune"  |
\-----------------------------------------------------------------------------/
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gak@wrs.com (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Re: MOLDY BEER!!!!
Reply-To: gak@wrs.com
Organization: Wind River Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 18:36:19 GMT

In article 7655@mtu.edu, ctschmid@mtu.edu (Schmidt) writes:
>In article <622.180.uupcb@hardgood.com>, john.fix@hardgood.com (John Fix)  writes:
>
>|> What's it look like now?  Is this your first batch?
>
>   What's it look like now?  Well, now it doesn't look so good. 

Dump it.  It's history.

Tighten up your sanitation procedures and try again!

good luck
gak

---
Richard Stueven       AHA# 22584 |----------| If the trees are bare, if the
Internet:            gak@wrs.com |----GO----| skies are gray, if the Zamboni
ATTMAIL: ...!attmail!gakhaus!gak |---SHARX--| is running, can winter be far
Cow Palace:            107/H/3-4 |----------| behind?  -C.Schulz
From: newkirki@hotcity.COM (Joel Newkirk)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Bottling Time Yet?
Date: 8 Nov 92 22:19:31 PST
Organization: BBS

Papazian says that a secondary isn't necessary if you bottle soon, but if
you're gonna go very long you should use one. (I usually go to secondary at one
to two weeks)  Common wisdom seems to be that if the hydrometer reading stays
stable (no perceptible drop) for a day or two then you can bottle safely.  I
usually siphon wort off the trub into the primary, and divert a small amount
into the hydro tube then, same to secondary, then sanitize/sterilize a ladle or
some such that will fit through the carboy top and pick up a little for testing
after that.  I often don't really take two hydro readings, just bottle when it
seems time.  8^)
Joel
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: gwt@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (geoffrey.c.woods)
Subject: Wyeast 1056 Problem
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:58:12 GMT


Having a problem with Wyeast 1056 (American Ale), I have used this
yeast several times before with no problems, but this time -- 2
nights ago I popped the bulge and was planning to add it to a premade
starter the following night. In the morning I noticed it was already
very swollen, but did not have time to add to the starter. Last night I
added the Wyeast to the starter (it looked like it was going to blow)
and this morning it looked like nothing happened. But when I looked
closer at the bottle (clear 750ml) there was sediment at the bottom
which was not present last night.

The Wyeast was very fresh (OCT 21) and by the quantity of sediment it
looks like the yeast did not ferment at all in the starter bottle, but
just settled down to the bottom. The Wyeast and the starter wort were at
the same temp and the wort OG was around 1025, so I don't think the
yeast was shocked. So my plan tonight is to add some new wort to the
yeast cake if there is no activity.

Has anyone seen 1056 ferment so fast or could have the yeast died out in
less then 24 hours in the package and if so what are my chances of
reviving it.
				Geoff Woods
				gcw@garage.att.com

By the way I posted a very complete US/Canada brewpub/micro list on
alt.beer yesterday if anyone is interested!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: kral@hplabsz.hpl.hp.com (Joseph Kral)
Subject: Re: Water in San Francisco
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 21:25:10 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Palo Alto,CA
Keywords: WATER ANALYSIS

In article <1992Nov12.182118.28153@netcom.com> jwsb@netcom.com (Justin Broughton) writes:
>I just read Dave Miller's book the complete handbook of home brewing.
>He seems to be very big on water quality, so my obvious question is,
>has anyone got the relevant details for San Francisco water and how 
>one would go about treating it?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Justin Broughton
>Configurex Inc. Oyster Point Blvd, South San Francisco, California


Call up your local water company and they should be able to send you a water
quality anaylsis.  It should give you all relavent information.


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: arthur@sgi.com (Arthur Evans)
Subject: Re: Wyeast 1056 Problem
Reply-To: arthur@chiba (Arthur Evans)
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 01:05:08 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.175812.3393@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> gwt@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (geoffrey.c.woods) writes:
>
>Having a problem with Wyeast 1056 (American Ale), I have used this
>yeast several times before with no problems, but this time -- 2
>nights ago I popped the bulge and was planning to add it to a premade
>starter the following night. In the morning I noticed it was already
>very swollen, but did not have time to add to the starter. Last night I
>added the Wyeast to the starter (it looked like it was going to blow)
>and this morning it looked like nothing happened. But when I looked
>closer at the bottle (clear 750ml) there was sediment at the bottom
>which was not present last night.

Did you aerate the starter wort?  It could be that your little
saccharomyces friends are gasping for air down there at the 
bottom of the flask.  In this case, you might want shake it on
up, to aerate the wort and bring the yeast back into suspension.

Barring that, I'd just give the little buggers a bit more time.

ae

--
"'twas whiskey and bad company
  That made a wretch of me."
				- (traditional Irish ballad)
From: rone@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Ronald Elshaug)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: yeasty beasties
Date: 12 Nov 92 23:26:17 GMT
Reply-To: timfair@vnet.ibm.com
Organization: IBM Rochester
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM

In article <1992Nov12.103822.60759@cc.usu.edu>, slndw@cc.usu.edu writes:
|> 
|> In addition, I am going to pitch yeast into 5 gal. of cider.  Anyone
|> got any recomends on what yeast to use?  (this is FRESH cider from 
|> an orchard in our neighborhood; it was pressed tuesday night and it
|> is delicious).
|> 
|> -toot
|> 

Any wine yeast would probably do.  If you want to make an apple wine,
add enough white sugar to bring the gravity up to about 1080-1090.
A nice compliment to your Holiday meals.

-rone
From: davel@ampex.com (Dave Larkins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Freezing hard cider
Date: 13 Nov 92 00:43:42 GMT
Organization: Ampex Corporation, Redwood City CA

In article <1992Nov12.223336.3088@odin.corp.sgi.com> arthur@chiba (Arthur Evans) writes:
>In article <1992Nov12.094308.3157@nic.csu.net> steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu (Steve Mitchell) writes:
>
>I tried this once (but I didn't inhale) as a means of 
>saving an unfortunate batch of cider.  I ended up with an
>unfortunate batch of applejack (which, incidentally, is
>what this beverage is allegedly called).  Someone who
>used to contribute to the homebrewing digest said she 
>made applejack by leaving a barrel of cider out in the barn
>in the winter, and periodically scooping out the ice.
>
>This don't work where I live.
>
>You might, hypothetically, try placing some cider in a wide
>mouthed plastic container (not a tightly sealed glass one, please),
>placing it in the freezer, and periodically removing the ice
>that forms.  
>
>Please report back to us on the results of this thought 
>experiment.
>

Yes, this will work but make sure to crush the ice properly and strain it out.
It will also taste terrible and could verge on poisonous because unlike the
hot distillation process, there is no opportunity to vent off the fusil oils
etc. It can be improved by filtering through activated charcoal and then
storing in contact with oak chips or in an oak barrel. Even after this, the
resulting liquor will probably give you the worst hangover you have ever had
if imbibed in excess. 

ciao 	davel
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing