HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: aahsan@pyrhard2.eng.pyramid.com (Agha Ahsan)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oil Light comes on.
Keywords: SAAB, OIL
Date: 12 Aug 92 22:51:59 GMT
Organization: Pyramid Technology Corporation, Mountain View, CA.

I have a 1984 SAAB 900T with 113K miles on it.
Sometimes when I am breaking to slow down from
say about 55 60 mph, the oil light comes on and
the oil presure guage needle also drops to
about 30 instead of the normal 60. Then when I give
it gass again everything shows normal again.
There is definitly enough oil in the car. Any Ideas?

Thanx.

-Agha
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ycheah@hamp.hampshire.edu
Subject: Re: Subaru billows white smoke...
Organization: Hampshire College
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 00:05:19 GMT

In article <1992Aug19.064230.20002@mr.med.ge.com>, hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
> Possibilities, in order of "let's hope".
> 
> 1> head gasket
> 2> cracked head
> 
> That's about all I can think of....sounds like you aren't gonna be selling it
> for as much as you thought, sorry.  If it's a gasket, though, you can probably
> do it yourself and still get some $$ for it, but in its present condition I
> would bet it won't sell.
> 
> Good luck. 
> 
> P.S.  I'm sure there are other possibilities, anybody?
> 
> 
> --
> 
Intake manifold gasket: $50-$60 job at dealer.

But not likely. The original poster mentioned that the car was "parked" and was
being started weeky to "circulate the oil". Depending on how long he/she has
been doing this without actually driving the car, it sounds to me that that
might be the cause of (1) or (2) above. :-(

Yin-chai
From: rxkgre@minyos.xx.rmit.oz.au (Geof Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: MPG on 4WD's
Date: 13 Aug 92 20:43:58 GMT
Organization: RMIT Computer Centre, Melbourne Australia.

timke@microsoft.com (Tim Keane) writes:

>And here's mine:

>vehicle: 1967 Dodge M37B1, 230ci flathead inline 6 cyl, 4 speed manual trans,
>5.83:1 axles (no, that's not a typo), curb weight ~5800lbs.  Gets 10mpg.

>-tim

<<<* That much ? My Blitz half-track only manages 6mpg. Your mileage WILL
     vary. 8->
-- 
  ___________________________________________________________________  
|| Geof Evans                 | DOMAIN: rxkgre@minyos.xx.rmit.oz.au  ||
|| Melbourne,Australia 3000   | Tel: +61 3 663 3663		     ||
||   If they *really* wanna know...tell 'em that God was drunk.      ||
||___________________________________________________________________||
From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Idle speed won't adjust lower than 1200RPM
Keywords: 2.8L V6, idle speed
Date: 19 Aug 92 00:47:48 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin TX

In article <russell.714075778@ncube.com> russell@ncube.com (Russell Randolph) writes:
>
>I have an '84 Chevy S-10 w/ 2.8 liter V6.  Just rebuilt the carb.  Truck
>has much more power, but the minimum idle speed setting is 1200 RPM!  Yet
>the throttle valve appears to be completely closed.  Here is what I've done
>to try and find the problem:

[thorough list of careful checks deleted -- good thinking though!]

>Thus, it appears that the air is entering the top of the carb but is
>bypassing the throttle valve.  The mixture (according to the propane
>enrichment) is at least close.
>
>Is there possibly some path from inside the carb around the throttle
>valve?

It's possible, but it's also possible the engine itself is out of
tolerance.

The idle setting is a balance -- completely open-loop.  The throttle
(and mixture trim) are balanced against the overall friction of the
bottom end bearings and valve train.  A new engine will need lots of
throttle to overcome running friction, while one that's getting close
to overhaul time will need almost none, and if you tweak an existing
carb, you may well exceed the adjustment limits, which could be what
you have encountered.  Bear in mind a barnd new engine will need a
largish wrench to turn the crankshaft by the bolts, while a far-worn
one can often be turned over by hand by the fan blades (assuming you
don't have a fan clutch 8-) ... this is next to no resistance as far
as an engine is concerned.

If you can live with the high idle (my '80 Mazda with >150K miles does
it too!) it won't really damage anything.  If it bugs you too much,
you may need an overhaul.

-- 
<BGB>
lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu        /     "I can't complain,
(really Bruce Bostwick)        /   but sometimes I still do"
from the great state of TEXAS /         --Joe Walsh--
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: How do I start working on my A/C?
Date: 12 Aug 92 14:34:00 GMT
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Originator: mja@hercules


In article <BsutzG.3r1@news.udel.edu>, iseman@chopin.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:
|> In article <1992Aug10.124354.1@pa881a.inland.com> nason@pa881a.inland.com writes:
|> >> 
|> >
|> >Assuming your in Engineering school, the theory in not too difficult. 
|> >Refrigerant is exposed to low pressure, boils, and therefor absorbs heat.  
|>                                    
|> WHAT!, NO NO NO.
|> 
|> First of all, refrigerant exposed to low pressure will cool.

This is mostly correct. Like air coming out of a tire (tyre for others).

|> 
|> Second, if a substance boils it certainly does NOT absorb heat-it gives heat
|> off.

No, Phase change requires energy. This energy comes from the liquid (removed).
Do not confuse the input energy (gas or electric burner of a stove) with
the removal of energy (boiling). If what you say is true then my boiling soup
would be self perpetuating.

|> 
|> Steve

The original poster is correct. You are confusing _heat_ with _temperature_.
Also, boilig can take place without adding heat (change in pressure). The boilg
soup example is taking place at a constant (relatively) pressure. The
refrigeration cycle does not.

-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
From: pwu@pop-tarts.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine race at idle ?
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:38:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
In-reply-to: kenny@osf.org's message of 18 Aug 92 15:30:09 GMT


	  From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
	  Date: 18 Aug 92 15:30:09 GMT
	  
	  ...
	  
	  Special equipment required [to read EEC-IV trouble code]:
	  
	  1 - (one) Chilton's Electronic Engine Manual ...
	  
	  1 - (one) Analog VOM. Rat Shack's got 'em for about $10 nowadays. DON'T get
		  a digital one, you'll need the meter to see the swing.

Digital might work if you have one already.  I used to use a LED and a 10k
resistor in serial in place of the VOM and they worked well, especially in the
dark:

+-------------===------------|>|------------o
Battery +     10k resistor   LED           Self test connector

Caution should be taken to prevent short circuit or grounding otherwise you
may start a fire, destroy the EEC-IV, or cause other damages.  I wrapped all
the solder points and the bare leads of the two component and stuffed them
in a film case.
	  
	  1 - (one) Pair of alligator clips. ...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: romansks@unvax.union.edu (Steve Romanski)
Subject: Fire Extinguisher - Halon or Dry Chemical
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 18:14:02 GMT

I was looking to purchase a good extinguisher to carry in the car.

I know halon is probably a lot less messy but what other advantages
does one have over the other. 

What is a good size.

Is the dry chemical very crossive or just messy.

etc...

thanks in advance
------------------------------------------------------------
From: rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: New type of belt?
Date: 18 Aug 92 17:05:31 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Aug12.171154.8081@berlioz.nsc.com>, jtu@berlioz.nsc.com (James Tu) writes:
> I just got my alternator belt replaced and the new belt doesn't look like an
> ordinary belt.  The inside part of it was notched on purpose.  They were sort
> of semi-circular notches.  Is this a new type of belt which increases traction?
> 
> It's sort of the belt world's version of the ping-pong paddle with the tiny
> studs to increase the control or spin.
> 

It's typically called a cog belt that's designed to go around a
smaller radius than a similiar belt without the notches.  It generally
has a similiar load rating and has less heating from flexing than a
belt without the notches.
-- 
Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij  Voice: +1 602 581 4867
Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu              Fax: +1 602 582 7111
Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Spark plug wire help
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 09:22:36 -0500

 TS> Ooops.  My car doesn't have spark plug wires... no alternator.  My
 TS> mixture is still rich though.

Let me guess ... you have a Diesel with a humungous battery, that you charge by
plugging it into the wall each night. Or is it an old Diesel with a generator
rather than alternator?

C'mon guys, let's try to figure out what kind of car Mr. Santos has, so we can
help him out.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brims@bnkl01.astro.ucla.edu (George Brims)
Subject: Trashing Lucas (was:Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?)
Date: 21 Aug 92 10:01:11 PDT

In article <1992Aug16.175944.5349@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher) writes:
>q) Why do the British drink their beer warm?
>
>a) They own Lucas refrigerators.

Now look you can have a go at Lucas all you want (they turned me down
for a job once) but stop saying bad things about our beer. The British do
NOT drink beer warm. We drink it cold. We do not drink it ICE cold. 
This is because British beer (except some of the stuff in southern England)
has TASTE which would be killed by being too cold. American beer has
to be kept very chilly so that your mouth knows it's in there. When you
guys do serve up a good one like Anchor Steam or Samuel Adams I have
to let it warm up for five minutes so I can taste it.

All followups/flames to rec.crafts.brewing, those guys are all plastered
already so this should really confuse them.

George Brims
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,sci.physics
From: westes@netcom.com (Will Estes)
Subject: Need Formula For Tire Friction
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 92 23:02:13 GMT
Organization: Mail Group

I recently had a bad experience with a small "toy" spare tire
on my Honda Prelude.  After driving on it at 50 mph for only
10 miles it heated up almost to the point where it was
smoking.  This made me wonder if there would be some
easy way to predict how hot a tire would get based on 
known variables.


What I would like is some formula that takes as its input
the load on the tire, the diameter of the tire, and the
width of the tread, and gives as its output some sort of
"friction number" that could be used to determine whether
the tire will get too hot or not.  Does anyone know of
such a formula?  Are there other major input variables
I'm missing here?  Please courtesy copy your response to
me by email.

Thanks,
Will Estes                Internet: westes@netcom.com
From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguisher - Halon or Dry Chemical
Date: 23 Aug 92 14:27:42 GMT
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network

In article <BtEr14.GCJ@math.uwaterloo.ca> fwbent@watmsg.uwaterloo.ca (Fred Bent) writes:
>In article <714499354.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>>
>> SR> I was looking to purchase a good extinguisher to carry in the car.
>> SR> 
>> SR> I know halon is probably a lot less messy but what other advantages
>> SR> does one have over the other. 
>>
>>Halon is especially good for extinguishing a fire in an enclosed space (e.g.
>>engine compartment or car interior). Simply leave the hood or doors closed and
>>spray in the halon through the radiator or partially open window or door.
>>
>>Halon is more dangerous in that while not toxic, it will not support life. So if
>>someone is unconcious or trapped inside a car, you have to be very careful about
>>using halon inside the passenger compartment.
>
>Isn't Halon a CFC?  I thought that they could not make Halon fire
>exstinguishers any more.  Perhaps this is only in Canada....

Worse.  It is a "BCFC"  (CFC with bromine).  Bromine does far more ozone
damage than does chlorine. Halon-1211, what is probably in that extinguisher,
is Freon-12 (CFC-12, with one bromine atom substituted for a chlorine).
It has an assigned ODP (ozone depeletion potential) of 3.0, which makes
it 3X worse for the ozone than Freon-12 (used in auto-A/Cs).  Halon-1301,
for computer rooms, is ODP 10.0!

One substitute for Halon appears to be HCFC-123, which has an ODP of 0.02
or something like that.  However, rats exposed to it at 300ppm, got
testicle tumors.  Human exposure for R-123 is now 10ppm.  Put out that fire
and have your balls fall off.
--ghg
From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 16:00:36 GMT
Subject: Re: Fog Lights and Driving Lights
Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I'll second the opinions of the first response.  I have had great luck
with CIBIE series 95.  I have them hooked up to a relay, with an
additional switch, so they either come on with the high beams, or 
can be switched on permanently.  These things are BRIGHT.

From: wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 15:39:23 GMT
Subject: Re: Replacing only 2 shocks??
Organization: Hewlett Packard - Boise, ID
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I have heard that if the front are shot and you only replace the rears,
then you could have an oversteer problem as the front end waddles through
the corners.  Wouldn't be too bad in town but I wouldn't want it on the
expressway!

Wes Fujii

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Wes Fujii               *           JAPANESE BUSINESS MOTTO           *
* Boise, Idaho            *        You can buy anything you want        *
* wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com *             with a lot of money             *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 14:43:00 EDT
From: Jeffrey J. Nucciarone <J9N@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject:    91 Nissan Sentra: timing belt or chain?

Does someone in the know out there know if the 1991 Nissan Sentra
with the 1.6L engine has a timing belt or a timing chain?  I
looked thru the owners manual under the suggested service intervals,
and there is nary a mention of timing belt service at 60k or
greater intervals.

So either they used a chain when they redesigned the engine, or they
have a lot of faith in the belt.  I looked over the engine bay and
nowhere does there seem to be a cover or whatever service hatch to
get access to a belt.

Any info is greatly appreciated.

All the dealer would say is bring it in at the required service intervals!
Figures he'd say that....   thanks again!

Jeff.
      j9n@psuvm.psu.edu
From: lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Locks for doors without locks.
Date: 22 Aug 92 08:06:19 GMT
Organization: /etc/organization

In article <BtC4F4.z1@news.larc.nasa.gov> DEVILBISS@OCTAVE.LARC.NASA.GOV (Zaphod Beeblebrox) writes:
>1988 Jeep Wrangler Soft Top . . . No factory installed locks.
>
>Last night some &$*(^*&%&^ got into my Jeep and rifled through my center 
>console and glove box.  Before 1990 (I think!) there were no locks installed 
>in Wranglers with Soft Tops.  I was thinking about installing some locks 
>myself ($15.00 each for lock cylinders) and I was wondering if anyone had 
>any knowledge on how difficult it might be.  I'll have to punch some holes 
>in the doors and come up with some different push rods for inside the doors 
>but it shouldn't be that hard.  I could use some info before I start cutting 
>holes.
>
>BTW . . . I know that once I put locks on the doors, the next &$*(^*&%&^ 
>might just cut the roof.  Also, an alarm might solve my problems but I'm 
>still interested in stopping the small time &$*(^*&%&^ who just break into 
>anything unlocked.
>

I have an 89 Wrangler with a soft top...  It is indeed 1990 that jeep added
locks to the doors.  You'll need more than just lock cylinders, since the
89 and earlier wranglers have no provision for a locking mechanism in the
door latch assembly.  I thought about installing the latch assmebly and
associated components from 90 doors, but decided against it.  I'd much
rather have someone open the door in the first place than have them
cut a window and then open the door (which isn't necessary, anyway...
you can unzip the front windows from the outside with little difficulty.
).  My solution was 2-fold: 1, remove temptation...  pulled the console
out, 2, install an alarm with door switches.  I don't expect the alarm to
scare off anybody determined, just to get ward off the jerkoff who will toss
my service reciepts and maps all over the floor while trying to find something
of value in the glovebox.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: drew@ophelia.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 22:06:44 GMT

In article <Bsw7zE.79u@taligent.com> todd_oconnor@taligent.com (Todd O'Connor) writes:
>In article <1992Aug12.004534.19969@athena.cs.uga.edu> James P. H. Fuller,
>fuller@athena.cs.uga.edu writes:
>>     I'd like to vote loudly and often for Jeeps.  They've been making
>>basically the same design since forever, they're simple as lawnmowers
>>and you can crawl under them without jacking them up.
>
>I'll second that vote. I'm on my second Jeep and just love 'em.

Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 - just like a jeep, only it's not.  Enough 
ground clearance to crawl under. Simple as a lawn mower (Especially
if it's old enough to lack Satan emissions controls and electronics).
Basically the same design forever, which means newer junk yard parts still fit 
something that's 20 years old.   Thing has a ladder 
frame so the body parts are entirely non-structural, nothing critical
to blow there like in a unibody.  

And you can fit a 350 chevy under the hood, which every one knows how 
to work on!


-- 
Microsoft is responsible for propogating the evils it calls DOS and Windows, 
IBM for AIX (appropriately called Aches by those having to administer it), but neither is as bad as AT&T.  Boycott AT&T, and let them know how you feel. 

From: maurice@hp-ptp.ptp.hp.com (Maurice Liang)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 22:06:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Replacing 944 speakers
Organization: HP Pacific Technology Park - Sunnyvale, Ca.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I replaced the rear speakers in my '86 944 with a pair of 5-1/4" woofers
(I put dome tweeters behind the stock front grills).  No real trick to it,
it just takes some time.  You have to remove the whole molded plastic 
side panel which involves lifting some of the weather stripping around the
door edge, removing the phillips head screws, and pulling the panel out from
under the rear/side window weather stripping.  NO, the window itself doesn't
have to come out.  

Maurice <Viperholic> Liang
From: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Electrical Question: Multiple Batteries?
Date: 18 Aug 92 07:28:53 GMT
Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.

eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:

>In <CMM.0.90.0.713813115.siegman@Sierra.Stanford.EDU> siegman@SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU ("Anthony E. Siegman") writes:

>>Anyone out there with experience on using, and recharging, multiple
>>batteries in a vehicle?

>So I put an extra battery in the trunk, and connected it to my regular one
>with a large diode: the spare could be charged, not discharged. When I left
>the lights on again, I got out my jumper cables, started the car with the 
>other battery and drove off.

>The diode should be a large one: 15 Amps at least. Drill a hole in an aluminum
>plate, put the diode in so it can cool, and wrap the plate in tape, so it
>can't touch the metal of your car (sparks, roasted wire, blown out diode).

This scheme only partially works.  It will only partially charge the 
reserve battery because of the 0.7 volt diode drop.  The correct way 
to do this is to put a diode in the charging lead for both batteries.
If the voltage regulator measures the voltage downstream of the 
diodes, the drop is canceled out.  Such diode packs mounted on a heatsink
are commonly available from camper supply companies or Northern Hydraulics
for about $25.  The diodes should be rated for the full output of the
alternator because either battery can conceivably consume the full output.

This scheme does not work with an internal regulated alternator because
the voltage is typically sensed at the alternator terminal.  The way to
charge the spare battery is to switch it in parallel with the main battery
using a heavy duty relay.  The relay should be operated by the charge
indication terminal from the alternator so that the battery is paralleled
only when the engine is running fast enough that the alternator is charging.

I use the former arrangement in my Datsun Z-car with a spare battery
to run a stereo, several ham radios, a PC and other test equipment 
through an inverter and last but not least, a radar gun :-)
Works like a champ and always keeps the aux battery fully charged.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC               |Interested in high performance mobility?  
Performance Engineering Magazine (TM) |
Marietta, Ga                         |Interested in high tech and computers? 
jgd@dixie.com                        |Write me about PE Magazine
Need Usenet public Access in Atlanta?  Write Me for info on Dixie.com.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: fwbent@watmsg.uwaterloo.ca (Fred Bent)
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguisher - Halon or Dry Chemical
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1992 23:10:16 GMT

In article <714499354.F00001@blkcat.UUCP> Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
>
> SR> I was looking to purchase a good extinguisher to carry in the car.
> SR> 
> SR> I know halon is probably a lot less messy but what other advantages
> SR> does one have over the other. 
>
>Halon is especially good for extinguishing a fire in an enclosed space (e.g.
>engine compartment or car interior). Simply leave the hood or doors closed and
>spray in the halon through the radiator or partially open window or door.
>
>Halon is more dangerous in that while not toxic, it will not support life. So if
>someone is unconcious or trapped inside a car, you have to be very careful about
>using halon inside the passenger compartment.

Isn't Halon a CFC?  I thought that they could not make Halon fire
exstinguishers any more.  Perhaps this is only in Canada....

>
> SR> 
> SR> What is a good size.
>
>The largest size that is convenient to carry inside the passenger compartment.
>An extinguisher stored in the trunk is likely to inaccessible in case of a
>serious collision.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech