HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: petero@tms390.micro.ti.com (Peter Ostrin)
Subject: Dynaflite Skeeter and other HLG
Summary: a good hlg for few $$$
Keywords: gliders
Organization: Texas Instruments, Houston
Distribution: rec
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 15:07:01 GMT

Hi All,

I am interested in hand launched gliders.  I notice that the
Dynaflite Skeeter costs about $15.  Does anyone out there
have any experience (good or bad) with this kit?  Is
there any other low cost HLG Kit I should consider.

Thanks

Peter

petero@micro.ti.com

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: Re: Spinner backplate slippage cure
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 16:52:49 GMT

>>>>> On Thu, 7 Jan 93 14:08:21 GMT, mkfeil@bcrki9.bnr.ca (Max Feil) said:
=> (This is my last post for today, I promise.)

=> I was having no end of trouble with the backplate of my
=> Goldberg (4-pin) 2.5" spinner slipping (APC 11-6 prop, OS 50
=> FSR motor). It didn't help that I needed a spacing washer
=> between the drive washer and the spinner backplate to give cowl
=> clearance. I tried everything, roughening the surfaces, cutting
=> grooves with my dremel tool, etc to try to increase friction,
=> but I still could barely even tighten the prop nut without the
=> prop slipping out of position on the backplate. When I did
=> think it was right the prop would still come loose after one
=> flight.

=> I finally hit on the idea of throwing the dremel tool away, but
=> keeping the thin cut-off disks and putting one on each side of
=> the spinner backplate. These things grip like crazy!

The only potential problem I see with this idea is that [some types of]
cutoff disks are a bit brittle and might want to crack under stress. An
equally simple solution is a couple of disks of 180 sandpaper, back to
back.

The tiny hole in the cutoff disk has to be enlarged, and it can be
difficult to drill it out without breaking some types of disks.

Good idea, just the same.

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
Its good to hear you're happy here.. I took the liberty of removing your legs.
From: mj4@prism.gatech.EDU (JONES,MICHAEL D.)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Attaching canopy to fuselage
Date: 7 Jan 93 16:33:11 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology


I am just finishing a Super Sportster 40.  The last thing that I need to do
is glue the canopy to the fuselage.  The instructions mention using CA glue
but I was wondering if epoxy or some other glue might be better.  Also, 
should I glue the canopy to the monocote or should I cut the monocote where
the canopy touches the fuselage?  I would appreciate any advice or personal
experiences.

Thanks,
Michael

-- 
JONES,MICHAEL D.
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!mj4
Internet: mj4@prism.gatech.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: stand@austin.ibm.com (Stan Douglas)
Subject: Re: Training on PC's (repost)
Originator: stand@stand.austin.ibm.com
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:40:10 GMT
Organization: IBM Austin



I have tried to use the MS Flight Simulator for training and didn't like it at
all.  It's too hard to orient yourself.  I don't think I ever managed to to hit
the runway flying from the tower.  

I switched to Dave Brown's RCFS PC Simulator (IBM).  It works very well and
includes a heli mode as well as trainer, sport, pattern, glider, rocket, fan jet,
and pylon.  I posted something about this before so I don't want to be too
boring, but I hacked up an old Heath Kit transmitter and hooked it to my game
ports and use it as the joystick.  Dave Brown was very accommodating and uncoupled
the software from the joystick and sold me the software alone.

Anyway I'm happy.  The only thing I'd like to see change is to have keyboard
control so I could install it on a laptop and be able to fly during boring
moments on business trips! 

Regards Stan
From: ed@kronos.com (Ed Baker)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Plastic Spinners in Cold Weather
Date: 10 Jan 93 03:26:27 GMT
Organization: Kronos Inc. / Waltham, MA
Disclaimer: This posting is a personal opinion and not that of Kronos Inc.

I was just about to install a new spinner on my plane for flying tomorrow
when I decided to read the instructions first!  (The old spinner didn't
survive the crash; neither did a lot of the plane.)

8. Do not run a plastic spinner at temperatures below +36 F or below +1 C.

Is this right?  I've been doing it for a couple of years and never thought
about it.  I'm sure they're worried about the plastic becoming extremely
brittle.  I'm just going to leave it off for now.

On another note, there were a couple of other good instructions that came
with the spinner:

2. Most spinners come off because the propeller is losse.  Do not use a
   4-way glow plug wrench to tighten the propeller - use at least a 6"
   wrench.

10. A little care and common sense will cure a lot of problems.  Always
    balance the propeller and spinner.  Almost all radio failures are
    caused by vibration.  A little care and your equipment will last a
    lot longer.

From my experience, almost all radio failures are caused by dead batteries :-).

BTW, the spinner is from C.B. Associates, Inc.  I usually use Goldberg,
but they can be a pain to snap on.  I don't recall Goldberg mentioning
temperature restrictions.

-Ed
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mckiou@cbnewse.cb.att.com (kevin.w.mckiou)
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1993 00:31:36 GMT

In article <C0K5q6.I3u@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:

>>I should be there in August for the Spacemodeling Team flyoffs.  I'll
>>bring it with.
>
>Better and better! I'll put the Team Trials on my calendar! Has the date
>been set as yet?
>
Not yet.  There is also supposed to be a seminar-like session and
a competition in Muncie this spring for those interested in FAI 
Spacemodeling competition.  I think the idea is to introduce FAI
Spacemodeling events to people unfamiliar with it and provide tips/hints/
plans for building and flying models.  As far as I know, no date has
been set for this event either.  

When I hear something definite, I'll post it.  In the meantime, you can
certainly call headquarters and see if they know anything, yet.

Kevin
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 15:11:53 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.015534.19691@rtsg.mot.com> svoboda@rtsg.mot.com (David Svoboda) writes:
>In article <42995@sdcc12.ucsd.edu> dlou@ece.ucsd.edu writes:
>|
>|
>|Anyone have any experience with the Estes Astro Blaster?
>
>Well, no, but I wanted to clear up some things about .049's.
>
>|3> the .049 pusher configuration means you can't use a clunk tank (the
>|clunk will be facing the wrong way) 
>
>Okay, here's what you do.  Use a normal tank with a balloon inside.
>The idea is to have the balloon fill the interior of the tank without
>inflating.  The balloon is held in place by the tank cork.  Then 
>instead of clunk and vent lines, you use a straight tube going to the 
>lower back of the tank, with notches cut through it (and smoothed so 
>as to not cut the rubber).  You just cut a small hole in the outside 
>of the tank for a vent.  When you fill the tank, first suck the air
>out from inside the balloon, then fill away.  It really works.

This is a variant on what Doc Passen calls the "Limpy Bladder" that was
popular for a while in Slow Combat. I used them because I couldn't afford
$10 chicken hopper tanks. They worked really well too. Haven't tried it 
with an .049 though.

>|and the QRC/Texaco/Black Widow
>|engines won't go inverted which, 

>I've never had a QRC or Texaco, but I assure you that a Black Widow
>has an inverted fuel system.

Sort of. Out of the box its set up for control-line, with the fuel pick-
up shoved over to the right side of the tank. It will therefore fly in-
verted but the engine will only use half the tank. For other uses one 
usually opens up the tank and puts the end of the tubing at the bottom 
of the tank. 

>You can also buy tank mounts for TD 049s that handle inverted flight.
>That will give you more power than a Black Widow.

Or do what I did.. use a bladder tank on a Tee Dee! I got ridiculous 
altitudes using a Tee Dee on a HOB Two Tee with about an ounce and a 
half of fuel in a bladder tank in the fuselage bay under the wing.

For a pusher though you will either need a pusher prop or a left hand 
crankshaft (I think Kustom Kraftsmanship carries them). The reed valve
engines turn either way with ease.. quite a pain sometimes when start-
ing! 9-)

What about the Queen Bee .074? I've heard it wasn't designed to have more 
power than a Tee Dee .049, just better adapted to throttling. You use the 
same 6x3 prop.





-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu (Chris)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Flying wings...
Date: 5 Jan 1993 02:10:49 -0600
Organization: University of Minnesota, Duluth
NNTP-Posting-Host: ub.d.umn.edu



   I am curious about flying wings...  Is their a lot of flying wing rc
models being flown?  How difficult is the construction, piloting, etc?
How expensive are plans, kits for them.

Thanx.

Cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu (Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way)
Subject: Re: Worlds Best Spinner?!!
Organization: New Mexico State University, MetaPhysical Science Laboratory
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 11:25:23 GMT

Tru-Turn.

I wouldn't have anything else on a CL stunt ship..

L.
"Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
 I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
 Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
 (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
Oh sure, we could do it the _easy_ way. But it just wouldn't be the COWBOY WAY.
From: jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Steve Jahr)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: First Trainer Questions
Date: 4 Jan 93 22:04:25 GMT
Organization: Old Programmers Home
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.8 PL6]

> |A bushing motor like the OS .40 FP has much less power (about the
> |same power as strong .25" motor) than an equivalent ball bearing motor.

> I would strongly disagree with this.  The only difference between a ball-
> bearing motor and a sleeve bearing motor is the bearings.  Ball bearings
> do not have significantly less drag, they just last longer and can take
> greater stress.  But the FP is a Schnuerle ported engine, and produces
> as much power as any other 40, excepting that you cannot safely stress
> them with high nitro or tuned pipe.

Bzzzzzzzt! Wrong!

The manufacturers specs for the 40 FP as shown in the Tower catalog
show the 40 FP at about 1 hp.  Now this is probably more than most
25's which tend to be about .8 or so.  But this is definitely *less*
than most ball bearing schnuerle 40's, heck my OS 32 F spec's out with
*more* power than a 40 FP.

As mentioned by another poster, the port timing is often reduced in
budget/sport engines to reduce performance and to increase general
tolerance to abuse.  Another item specifically changed on the 40 FP
is the carburetor:  it has a *much* smaller throat diameter than the
other 40 sized OS engines.  The muffler is also smaller: the 40 FP
uses the same muffler as the 32 F which has the same bolt pattern as
the 25 FSR (so for a tuned pipe use one for a 25?).

The 40 FP will save money in the short term... but if a newbie wants
more power in the future (different plane, aerobatics, etc.) then
I just don't see how it is cheaper to buy *two* engines of any type
than to buy *one* good engine.

Steve Jahr
jahr@hprnd.rose.hp.com
From: mm7q+@andrew.cmu.edu (Michael Oliver Muller)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: SCALE RIVITS????
Date: 11 Jan 93 10:27:07 GMT
Organization: Senior, Mechanical Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Scale rivits:

I read about this a while back, in MAN, I think. Take a comb, and take
out every other tooth (or how ever many rivits you need per given
length), then dip the comb in a tray of white glue, putting a small drop
of glue on every tooth of the comb. Then put the surface of the plane,
and it will leave a line of "rivits." Although I have not used this
method (I am still learning about the basics of flying!), it seems like
it is nice in the sense that it would help you get a nice straight line
of rivits.

Mike Muller
mm7q@andrew.cmu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: moskowit@panix.com (Len Moskowitz)
Subject: Re: Flying wings...
Organization: Panix Public Access Internet & Unix, NYC
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:53:18 GMT

In article <1ibfq9INNb7p@ub.d.umn.edu> cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu (Chris) writes:
>
>
>   I am curious about flying wings...  Is their a lot of flying wing rc
>models being flown?  How difficult is the construction, piloting, etc?
>How expensive are plans, kits for them.

Try the Evans Simitar series.  I've built (from scratch) and flown two
Simitar Deuces with a piped OS .25 FSR for power.  Wonderful flyer.
Very forgiving.  Slow landings.  Very maneuverable.  Plans can be had
from RCM.  Plans are cheap.

-- 
Len Moskowitz
moskowit@panix.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: hart@cheshire (James A. Hart)
Subject: Re: Jet engines...
Organization: TRW Inc., Redondo Beach, CA
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 22:21:22 GMT

cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu (Chris) writes:
:    Are there actaully rc jet engines?  I occasationally hear reference
: to ducted fan engines, how do they work? If there are rc jet engines,
: are the jet engines pulse jet or normal turbine jets?
: Just curious.
: 
: --
: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Chris Busch     cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
:  C(o_o))        _                        "The use of COBOL cripples the
:    (=)         (_ -|- -|- is the         mind; its teaching should, 
:   --|--        language of choice.       therefore, be reguarded as a
:    /^\      Protest the use of BASIC!    criminal offense." -E.W. Dijkstra
: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
: Wanted: Cheap run-of-the-mill standard VGA board. 
: Wanted: RC airplane engines, radios, planes, etc

--
I was just at the International Modelers Show in Pasadena over the weekend
as an exhibitor, and there was a booth for a French made turbine jet down 
the aisle.  They had one you could actually touch and a video tape of
actual planes flying it.  Cute engine.  Somewhere around 14" to 16" long,
and maybe 8" wide?  As I remember, about $4000 would get you into one
of them, and a fellow I talked to was putting TWO into his Phantom 4.
Watching the video reminded me of watching Wings on the cable.  The jets
took a LONG time to get off the runway, but once they were in the air the
performance was awesome.  And the SOUND!!  Worth the money IMHO.
I belive they did(will do) a feature on it in RCM magazine.

Name:        Jim Hart    N6JSS
InterNet:    hart@donald.etdesg.TRW.COM 
                         I'd rather be LANDSAILING!
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com (Bob Woodhouse)
Subject: Bearings
Organization: secure_comm
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 14:02:01 GMT

Hello,

I race a Schumacher CougarII car.  Recently, I have had some dirt infiltration
in the large rubber-sealed bearings.  If I clean these bearings with motor
spray and put no oil in them, they become dirty enough to make a difference
after one or two days of racing, especially the ones on the outdrive shafts
and the one near the slipper clutch on the layshaft.  I hear that Boca
Ultra-seal bearings may be better than the ones that I use.  Can anyone comment
upon remedies for my bearing trouble?  At ~$8.64 each, the Boca Bearings are
a costly gamble unless someone can specifically recommend them.

Have a good day,
Bob Woodhouse
bobwo@ecs.comm.mot.com
From: D2KAK@VM1.CC.UAKRON.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Worlds Best Spinner?!!
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:44:52 GMT
Organization: The University of Akron

On our Formula 1's and Pattern ships we have found that the aluminum
Tru-Turn Spinners work best. They are fairly well balanced right out
of the package and not subject to temp. problems.  Of course you pay
considerably more for this kind of quality, but, when it comes to the
best spinners my vote goes to the Tru-Turns.
From: dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Dynaflite Skeeter and other HLG
Keywords: gliders
Date: 7 Jan 93 16:11:52 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: SDRC

I have built several HLG.  

The Wristocrat, from TopFlite was my first HLG.  It is a very strong design.  Impossible to break 
the wing.  But it was not a good choice for a beginner.  I seemed to want to fly to fast.  This was
due to the wing loading and the airfoil (E205).  I had a nasty tip stall, until I added _alot_ of
wash out and a 'trip strip' to the top of the airfoil.

The Chuperosa, from Culpepper models was the best I've built.
The kit is very good.  Although the foam wing can be intimidating the first time.  There
are two version: Aileron or Polyhedral.  If your going to fly on a slope, I would reccomend
the aileron version.

  Nothing comes close the Chuppy's versatility.  It's great on a slope and will thermal very good 
when build light.  I've built two. The first one used the E214.  This is a relatively thick and under
cambered airfoil.  Is will slow down to a crawl when landing.

The other Chuppy used a SD7037.  This is an extremely smooth flyer.  I built it light (13.75 oz.)
I fly this mainly HL thermal.  It's a great plane.

Are there any other Chuperosa fans out there?

		

				Mike

******************************************************************************
  Mike Welch                 * "Gun laws go against Darwin's Theory.
  SDRC                       *  Let stupid people kill each other."
  2000 Eastman Drive         * 
  Milford, Ohio 45150        * "Governments should not mandate the
  Tel: (513) 576-2514        *  use of safety belts.  Let Natural
  Email: Mike.Welch@sdrc.com *  Selection work."  - me
******************************************************************************
From: jmoonan@ccv1.bbn.com (John Moonan)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Address for Fox
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:49:08 GMT
Organization: BBN Communications, Cambridge, MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccv1.bbn.com


Address for Fox from latest RCM is:

	Fox Manufacturing Co.
	5305 Towson Ave.
	Fort Smith, AR 72901

	Phone: (501) 646-1656
	FAX:   (501) 646-1757

					THANX, John
					SYSOP, 495th R/C Squadron
					Groton, MA
From: lew@4ccvw70.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Royal .46 engine
Date: 6 Jan 93 01:02:34 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvw70.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <1993Jan5.150720.12883@crd.ge.com> souza@crd.ge.com writes:
>
>I just bought a Royal Signature .46 BB ABC engine. Seems like a reasonably
>well-made copy of an OS .46SF for half the price. I haven't run it yet,
>but I noticed that the piston fit inside the cylinder is not nearly as
>tight as my other ABC engines (Royal .25 and Magnum .40GP), although it
>is definitely tightest near top-dead-center. Is this likely to be a
>problem? Any opinions on this engine?

That's the way ABC motors are typically set up. Just follow the break-in
procedure and the motor should do fine.









Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: wwebster@bnr.ca (Bill Webster)
Subject: Re: Engine problems
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 13:06:38 GMT

In article <LARRY.93Jan4085054@peak.psl.nmsu.edu>, larry@peak.psl.nmsu.edu
(Evil Engineer doin' it the Cowboy Way) wrote:
> 
> Strangely enough, after all those years of flattened Fox needle valve ends
> (on Fox .35 stunt engines), conventional pointed needle valves are now
> available. In fact these, plus the "stuffer" backplates are currently 
> considered to be the hot setup for Fox stunt engines.
> 
> Of course, one of the sure improvements for Fox .35s for many years has
> been to replace the [crappy] stock needle valve with a Supertigre version
> or equivalent..
> 
> L.
> "Yeh, Buddy..            | larry@psl.nmsu.edu (Larry Cunningham)|  _~~_
>  I've got your COMPUTER! | % Physical Science Laboratory        | (O)(-)
>  Right HERE!!"           | New Mexico State University          |  /..\ 
>  (computer THIS!)        | Las Cruces, New Mexico, USA 88003    |   <> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Disclaimer: Opinions expressed here are CORRECT, mine, and not PSLs or NMSUs..
> The first time I had sex, I was terrified. I was alone..


Okay. I'll bite.  What is a "stuffer" backplate and where do you 
purchase them?  I expect it's a new backplate to decrease crankcase
volume, thus increase crankcase pressure.

And, where do you get the pointed needle valve which still fits the
original Fox stunt spray-bar?

I've always found the Fox flattened needle valve works fine as long
as it never gets bent.  I cut the needle valve short and put a 90 degree
bend in it.  This way it avoids meeting terra firma.  Besides, it's
the cheapest spray bar assembly you can buy.  But, I do wish the
original Super Tiger assembly was still available.  The one from 
Kustom Kraftsman is okay but very expensive and you have to use
his needle valves (also expensive).

   Bill Webster (WWEBSTER@BNR.CA)
From: careyb@dallas.jsc.nasa.gov (Brian Carey 283-4181)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: What is a ferite bead?
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:59:46 GMT
Organization: MDSSC


What is a ferite bead? The one talked about below.

The "Y" harness might be acting like an antenna and causing interference
with the receiver.  I have had this problem and fixed it by running the base
of the "Y" cable through a ferite bead (one turn) to choke off the RF. This
worked with an airtronics receiver.  When I install servos in the wings of
my gliders I go ahead and put the ferrite bead in every installation and
have not had any problems since.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: manson@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Bob Manson)
Subject: Re: Great Planes P-51 & 4-stroke
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 17:48:51 GMT

By the way...

I've finished up a TopFlite P-51A that I built as a P-51D. I hacked up
the provided canopy to fit, but it looks pretty hokey. Does anyone
have any idea where I could get a scale canopy that would actually
look reasonable? (I checked with Great Planes, but they no longer have
the conversion kits).

Also, before starting on a 1/6 scale P-82 from scratch (the
sorta-kinda twin P-51) does anyone know of an existing kit for it?
I've asked quite a few of the shops here in Columbus, but nobody's
ever heard of one...
							Bob
manson@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: KEVINC@haven.adp.wisc.edu
Subject: Re: Rocket powered R/C (Estes Astro Blaster)  
Organization: UW-Madison Admin. Data Proc.
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 93 17:43:18 GMT

I thought you need a special license to use rocket engines of this size (past "D"). 
Does anyone know if this is true?

- kev -
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc