HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: richg@hatch.socal.com (Rich Greenberg)
Subject: Re: Drill hole in Porcelain Sink?
Organization: Hatch Usenet and E-mail.  Playa del Rey, CA
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 06:10:47 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.153629.14868@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> kls@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kenneth L Shellberg) writes:
>Over this past weekend, replaced bathroom faucet.  However, the liftrod that
>actuates the drain stopper couldn't be installed as the hole in the fixture and
>the hole in the sink do not match.  So, how do I enlarge the hole in the sink
>to allow the liftrod to pass through?  Given what I perceive to be the
>brittleness of porcelain, I am reluctant to jump in too fast.

One thing to try first.....
loosen the nuts which hold the fixture to the sink, and see if the fixture 
will move enough to clear the liftrod.  It usually will.
Then re-tighten.
(The voice of experience speaking.)

-- 
                
Rich Greenberg - N6LRT - 310-649-0238 - richg@hatch.socal.com
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Steam heating system
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:23:23 GMT
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <1992Oct2.224951.17622@netcom.com> greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough) writes:
>In article <1992Oct2.201951.4280@stsci.edu> davids@stsci.EDU (David Silberberg) writes:
>>My house's heating system was converted from water to steam a few years 
>>ago by the previous owner.  A plumber was recently out to see it and 
>>remarked that  while converting from steam to water is common, he has
>>never seen a house converted from water to steam.  
>I'd be curious to know what's involved in converting from steam to hot  
>water heat? Do you have to change the radiators, or can you adapt the 
>old steam units?

There was an articl in Yankee about the conversion TO steam sometime
withing the past 15 years, but not within the past 5 years.  Yeah,
thats kinka vague.  The article was pretty good.

The physics of steam heat are very different from water or air.  Any
"inefficencies" associated with steam are likely due to the startup
cost, the heightened importance of good pipe insulation, and the
relative difficulty of getting heat where you want it.  I cannot see
how, if all heat is eventaully put into the dwelling, using a 70% 
efficient furnace to heat water to steam is less efficent than using
a 70% furnace to heat and circulate water.  I may be wrong.

My house has steam heat.

-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
From: burton@misty.boeing.com (Brandy Burton-Tarantino)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Ventilation
Date: 25 Sep 92 16:58:53 GMT
Organization: Boeing Commercial Airplane BCS Support

>/ misty:misc.consumers.house / edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) /  6:37 am  Sep 24, 1992 /
>I am building a new house in the Boston area, and would like to engineer
>a ventilation system to keep the air fresh. This seems like just common sense,
>what with the house sealed up in a vapor barrier, and full of formaldehyde-
>emitting materials, and CO2-emitting humans. My problem is that all of the
>so-called professionals I have consulted all poo-poo the whole idea. Only
>the heat-recovery-ventilator salesman is enthusiastic. I even spoke with
>someone at an environmental engineering company that specializes in indoor
>air-quality issues. I have also spoken with 4 or 5 HVAC contractors.
>-- 
>Jonathan Edwards				edwards@intranet.com
>IntraNet, Inc					617-527-7020
----------
  In our new house -- Yes folks we got it and the FHA made them fix the
  plumbing problem ... thanx for the inputs  -- this is handled in a 
  really simple fashion -  above each of the windows there is a little
  slidy thingy  (looks like a inch wide strip with holes punched through
  about every ithatnh - strip behind has same size holes which are covered
  when slider is to left, open when to right - kinda like the top of a 
  salt shaker that you turn to open/close.  You leave that open - and in
  the bathroom there is a timer device that turns on the fan (set just
  like an automatic light timer).  The builder explains that this creates
  an airflow thru the house removing all the stale air - set it to go
  off as often and for as long as you wish.  Perhaps this would work for
  your application.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX    2   XXXXXXXXXXXXXX  T. E. Brandy Burton-Tarantino         X
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX   B    XXXXXXXXXXXXXX  uunet!bcstec!misty!burton@bcstec      X
X            Name your limitations, and you get to keep them.                X
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kls@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Kenneth L Shellberg)
Subject: Drill hole in Porcelain Sink?
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 15:36:29 GMT

Over this past weekend, replaced bathroom faucet.  However, the liftrod that
actuates the drain stopper couldn't be installed as the hole in the fixture and
the hole in the sink do not match.  So, how do I enlarge the hole in the sink
to allow the liftrod to pass through?  Given what I perceive to be the
brittleness of porcelain, I am reluctant to jump in too fast.

Thanks in advance

Ken

-- 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
- Ken Shellberg                 |   Internet: kls@ohstpy.mps.ohio-state.edu -
- The Ohio State University     |   CIS:      76247.1705@compuserve.com     -
- Geological Sciences           |   Voice:    614-292-2721                  -
From: jeff@claw.clearpoint.com (Jeffrey J. Griglack)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: siding options?
Date: 2 Oct 92 15:44:00 GMT
Reply-To: jeff@claw.clearpoint.com
Organization: Clearpoint Research, Hopkinton, MA

On 30 Sep 92 15:23:47 GMT, emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro) said:

Elizabeth>                             AND, most importantly, not every house
Elizabeth>                             built in the last century has real 
Elizabeth>                             historical significance--sad, but true
Elizabeth>                             and we pretenders may as well face it!--
Elizabeth>                             is your house significant for your area?

Thankyou for pointing this out.  I have been thinking the same thing
for a while, but have not "voiced" it to the net.  There have to be at
least 100 other houses just like my 1840s colonial in our town.  There
are three others on our street alone.  These things were knocked out
as factory worker housing and are not fancy.  If I want to make things
more comfy and easier to maintain with vinyl clad windows, I am going
to!  My house came with aluminum siding and I have considered ripping
it out and putting up new cedar, but not for historical reasons.  I
would do this because I like wood.  By the way, I would put on stain,
instead of paint, if we do reside with wood.
--

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Jeff Griglack             |"To mess about with typewriters and latch keys    |
|jeff@claw.clearpoint.com  | and call it work!"                               |
|jeff@fang.clearpoint.com  |                          -- E.M. Forster         |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: marcher@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Subject: Re: Mortage Negotiating?
Organization: Memorial University. St.John's Nfld, Canada
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:31:41 GMT

In article <27SEP199218514704@elroy.uh.edu>, englhq@elroy.uh.edu
(Franklet, Duane L.) writes:
> I am a first-time home shopper, and I've approached a few lenders
> to discuss the process and the fees involved. There seem to be about
> $1600 worth of miscellaneous fees: $375 appraisal and credit report,
> $175 underwriting fee, $100 processing fee, etc, etc. (I'm sure many of
> you know the story well.) In addition, a 1% origination fee seems
> to be pretty standard here in Houston.

I don't know how much of this would be any help to you since I am 
almost across the continent from you (St. John's, Nfld. & Lab., 
Canada), but I got the following deals when negotiating for my house:
	1) The bank that did my mortgage had a deal on the appraisal - 
I got a $175 rebate on the cost of this.
	2) The property I purchased had changed hands a couple of 
times in the past ten years, so the survey and location certificate 
had been verified fairly recently.  Because of this, the surveyor did 
an on-site visual inspection rather than a complete, 
get-your-instruments-out type of survey.  This saved me around $300.
	3) Finally, my lawyer is a distant cousin as well as a friend 
of mine.  She went to bat for me and got a $150 discount off the cost 
of her fees.  It helps to have friends/relatives who work in the legal 
profession.

Actually, if you have any friends/relatives in any profession that you 
will encounter when purchasing a house, they can be a great help.  Be 
sure to repay the favours - you may want to call on them again at some 
point!  I'm going to be cooking a lot of great meals in the near future 
- guess who's coming to dinner?

Hope this is some help to you.

Mary Elizabeth
From: faunt@dustbin.cisco.com (Doug Faunt N6TQS 415-688-8269)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: re: CAD software on a PC for home design
Date: 5 Oct 92 09:43:37
Organization: cisco Systems, Menlo Park, CA
Distribution: misc
NNTP-Posting-Host: dustbin.cisco.com

I asked here a while back about CAD software for home design, so I
could do drawings to submit to get a building permit, with no
response.  I have no previous experience with CAD systems. 

I went to a local computer store and bought "HOME" by Generic
Software, because it looked OK, cost $40., and supported an HP
LaserJet, which is what I have.  It seems to work pretty well,
although it's not perfect.  I suspect that if I redo what I've already
done, it'll have fewer glitches, but in general, it seems to do what I
want.

doug
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: PVC J bend + iron waste pipe = dribbly drain!
Date: 30 Sep 92 17:00:38 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

Terry S. Lee writes:
>On a 1950s house, I used PVC stuff to go from the basin to the iron/steel
>pipe coming out of the wall.  A PVC 'wall pipe' inserts into the iron pipe,
>a plastic ring and a nut keeps it in.  The PVC wall pipe presents a lipped
>surface, and with another nut hooks up to a PVC J bend.
>
>Well, the weakness in the system seems to be the plastic wall pipe.  Wishful
>thinking must have made the designers think that a pipe sitting there, with
>a crummy, hard, plastic ring with a hard plastic nut over it will keep water
>out.  Sure, by the time water gets there, it quickly travels across, down,
>and away, but I get an irritating dribble.  This happens on three installations.
>
>When I told the Home Depot plumbing guy my woes, he chuckled and said 'yeah,
>the PVC wall pipe doesn't seal worth a ...', and suggested I switch the hard
>plastic ring for a foam version that at least will compress under the nut.  It
>improved the situation, my dribble is now a drip.
>
>I am now advised to switch to the ol' fashioned, cast brass number that weighs
>about 5 lbs and costs about $17 a piece.  The only advantage it has is that it
>depends on threading to seal against the house drain system, not some silly
>slip fit pipe dream.  I asked if he knew of a PVC version of a wall pipe that
>seals with threads, and presents the lipped connector the J bend wants to see.
>He said he hasn't seen one.
>
>Tips, anyone?  I'm about to shove some plumber's putty all over, but it's messy,
>doesn't look good, and seems like a big hack to me.
>
>Thanks in adv.
>Terry Lee


I had almost the exact same situation in my kitchen.  The sink drain fed into
a pipe in the wall, with just a threaded female end sticking out.  I put in
a new sink and disposal.  I used PVC pipe to do this.  I had a male threaded
pvc piece (with a female glue joint on the other end) to thread into the
existing wall pipe, and it leaked.  So, I took my tube of silicon caulk and
laid a nice ring of it around the joint where the two meet.  No more leak.

Sadly, it looks as though I'll have to replace it, for other reasons: when
it drains, the dishwasher causes the waste water to back up a little into
the sink.  This is due to the fact that the drain point from the disposal
(into which the dishwasher empties) is at the same level as the entry to
the pipe in the wall.  Thus there is an insufficient  "drop" to let the
water drain fast enough.  Rather a pain, but that's the way it goes.
Fortunately, pvc pipe and fittings are dirt cheap.

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
From: tomgh@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Tom G. Horton)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 20:12:45 GMT
Subject: Re: alkalis, acids and chemical drain openers damage to pipes
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (SRSD MWTD)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house

Does anyone have experience with the enzyme type products like Enforcer
brand that are supposed to dissolve organic clogs and open slow running
drains?  The product is a powder that is to be dissolved in a pint of water
and used 3 days consecutively.

BTW, I believe that Crystal Draino is Lye (NaOH) mixed with Aluminum
shavings to intensify the reaction when mixed with water. Such an
alkali should not harm iron pipes, right?  I would be more concerned
about sulfuric acid contained in the commercial grade liquid drain
cleaners. I don't think that consumer liquids like LIquid Draino contain
any harsh acids or alkali.
From: root@candle.uucp (Bruce Momjian)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Help, cant remove faucets.
Date: 6 Oct 92 04:04:59 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: a consultant's basement
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Mark C. Lawrence (GA.MCL@forsythe.stanford.edu) wrote:
: In article <joel.718292952@hibp2.ecse.rpi.edu>,
: joel@ecse.rpi.edu (Joel Glickman) writes:
: >I am trying to replace the washers on a worn-out tub faucet. I remove the
: >center screw holding the faucet handle to the post, but the facuet handle
: >will not come off...

The method I used when I had this problem was to use a punch to bang on
the post through the screw opening.

By doing this, you are pushing the post out, rather than yanking the
knob off.
-- 
Bruce Momjian                          |  830 Blythe Avenue
root%candle.uucp@bts.com               |  Drexel Hill, Pennsylvania 19026 
  +  If your life is a hard drive,     |  (215) 353-9879(w) 
  +  Christ can be your backup.        |  (215) 853-3000(h)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: toddi@mav.com (Todd Inch)
Subject: Re: bathroom fan into attic?
Organization: Maverick International Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 02 Oct 92 20:12:28 GMT

In article <1992Sep23.163037.17793@yenta.alb.nm.us> ben@yenta.alb.nm.us (Ben Klausner) writes:
>wido@isgtec.com (Wido Menhardt) writes:
>>The bathroom is right under the
>>attic, and a friend suggested that I install the fan so
>>it will blow the hot/humid air right into the attic. 
. . .
>> I just can't imagine that that is good for the
>>wooden structure. 
>
>NO, NO, NO!!! This is one of the worst things that you can do. The last
>thing you ever want is additional moisture in your attic. It will eventually
>cause you to have to replace the entire roof! Since you can easily get to
>the attic, it's a lot cheaper in the long run to extend the vent all the way
>through the roof. 

I've gone into the details here before, but I once helped my dad, a
contractor, replace the entire roof, including the plywood over a large
attached garage because the owners had vented their dryer into the
garage.  

The composition roofing LOOKED perfect and was only about 5 years old,
but the steam had melted the glue in the plywood so badly that the
plywood layers no longer stuck together and you could literally stick
your foot through the roof.  To remove it, we just had two or three
people grab the edge of each sheet of plywood and rip it off of the
nails which were left in the trusses.

Dryer and fan vents are cheap & easy to install.
From: meltsner@crd.ge.com (Kenneth J Meltsner)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Mortage Negotiating?
Date: 28 Sep 92 17:14:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: crd.1992Sep28.171445.5179
Reply-To: meltsner@crd.ge.com
Organization: GE Research and Development Center



In article <27SEP199218514704@elroy.uh.edu>, englhq@elroy.uh.edu
(Franklet, Duane L.) writes:

|>I am a first-time home shopper, and I've approached a few lenders
|>to discuss the process and the fees involved. There seem to be about
|>$1600 worth of miscellaneous fees: $375 appraisal and credit report,
|>$175 underwriting fee, $100 processing fee, etc, etc. (I'm sure many of
|>you know the story well.) In addition, a 1% origination fee seems
|>to be pretty standard here in Houston.

The fees may not be negotiable, but the bank choice is yours.  Up
here, I found a local bank that holds its own mortgages.  I just
closed today on a ~$140K house with 10% down; my total fees (not
counting escrow and insurance) were:

Application              201.50
Bank Attorney            300.00
Various title stuff     ~300.00
NY State mortgage fee    900.00

No title insurance, no survey, no PMI, no appraisal fee, etc.  Look
for a "portfolio" bank in your area.  If you don't have one, you're
probably out of luck, since the loan reselling game is fairly standard
from bank to bank.


===============================================================================
Ken Meltsner                        | meltsner@crd.ge.com (518) 387-6391
GE Research and Development Center  | Fax:  (518) 387-7495
P.O. Box 8, Room K1/MB207	    | Nothing I say should be attributed
Schenectady, NY 12301               | to my employer, and probably vice-versa
================ Materials and Manufacturing, World O' Stuff ==================
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Subject: Re: Installing deadbolts in steel doors
Originator: mja@hercules
Reply-To: mja@philabs.philips.com (Michael Amato)
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff, NY 10510
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 19:28:29 GMT


In article <lcjm05INNq0i@news.bbn.com>, jdelsign@BBN.COM (John Delsignore) writes:
|> 
|> I have three run-of-mill steel-clad entry doors on my house...these
|> are your typical insulated steel entry doors.  They currently have
|> keyed knob sets, but I want to also install deadbolts in each of the
|> doors.
|> 
|> The doors are 1 3/4 inches thick, and it looks like there is wood
|> sandwiched between two sheets of steel along the edges.  Along the
|> edge of the door where the deadbolt belongs, there is some kind of
|> plastic knock-out.
|> 
|> 	|         |	  
|> 	|         |	  
|> 	| +-----+ |	 
|> 	| |     <-+----- Plastic knockout about 1" wide and 3" long.
|> 	| |     | |	 
|> 	| |     | |	   
|> 	| |     | |<---- Deadbolt belongs somewhere around here.	  
|> 	| |     | |
|> 	| |     | |
|> 	| |     | |
|> 	| +-----+ |
|> 	|         |
|> 	|         |
|> 
|> I've got some questions:
|> 
|> 	1. What's behind the plastic?

Sometimes wood, sometimes a dense fiberglass insulation material-
The metal may have template holes for the screws of the deadbolt assembly.


|> 	2. Where do I drill the holes relative to plastic knokout?

The deadbolt should come with a template that shows where to drill. Buy the
deadbolt BEFORE drilling, USE the template!. This way you will be sure that
the deadbolt will fit properly into the knockout area (alignment).

|> 	3. How easy is it to drill the opening for the deadbolt
|> 	   through the steel?  Is there a special drill bit required?

You can use a hole saw, but they are relatively expensive and you will
not use it for much else. I use the template to mark the required
opening and then use an old chisel or fairly sharp screw driver with a mallet
or a hammer and literally punch out the opening. Don't get too carried away
or the flanges for the lock cylinder/toggle will not cover the deformed
metal just outside the hole. This may sound crude but it works well.

|> 	4. How do you keep the drill perpendicular to the door?

I don't. If your going to drill it, do it from both sides. Again, use the 
template. 

|> 	5. What's going to go wrong?

The hardest part (IMHO) is getting the dead bolt recepticle position at the
right height (not to hard) and the right depth towards the outside (harder).
You want the door to seal properly when the deadbolt is engaged. Again, a template should be provided with the deadbolt.
|> 
|> Thanks, John D.

No problem. I'm sure you will here some other interesting comments/suggestions.

-- 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael Amato  DoD#0639 | "If pro is the opposite of con,       |
| mja@philabs.philips.com | then what is Congress"? - Will Rogers |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+
From: emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Cleaning Oriental Rugs
Date: 1 Oct 92 13:58:23 GMT
Reply-To: emolinar@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Elizabeth Molinaro)
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <1992Sep29.184144.1511@desktalk.desktalk.com> eric@desktalk.com
writes:
>Is there a way that I can clean my orienetal rug, ( a Boukara), myself.
>One idea I've had is to use an ELECTROLUX carpet cleaner with water only,
then let it dry. 
>Is it possible to just hose it down with water & let it dry outside?
>
>Thanx for any advice/input
>

        Professional oriental rug cleaners give the rug a bath.

        You can do it at home only with a pool (or extremely large
        tub!) that is filled with water only (no chemicals), a mild
        soap and a very, very soft brush.

        NEVER, EVER vaccuum an oriental, especially a Bokhara (the
        heavy Chinese jobbies, or a Turkish kilim, maybe, but not
        Bokhara's and the like with short fibers and delicate
        threads of silk, wool, and/or cashmere.)

        To clean, shake it out.  For heavy cleaning let someone else
        do it: they are insured and capable...and you'd be suprised at
        how inexpensive it is!

        Worth it, IMHO, for a once a year cleaning.

        Elizabeth

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: breland@mcc.com (Mark Breland)
Subject: Re: Electric Drill Recommendation
Organization: MCC, Austin, TX
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 15:07:54 GMT

In article <various and sundry> (several) write:

> (insert flame here)

Although not ever quite so knowledgeable and studied on the subject of
electrical drills as a couple of the more retentive respondents, I originally
posted a recommendation of Sear's based on experience/cost/durability.
Apparently, Sears' quality has diminished over the years, guess that means
my tool was acquired when it was the best available for the price paid.  Or
maybe I'm just one of those statistically insignificant who actually get value
out of their purchased goods and are happy about it.  As for having an IMHO...
hey, that's life, my drill makes holes and doesn't die. ;)


-- 

Mark A. Breland
breland@mcc.com  "...speaking only for myself, no others and vice versa etc..."

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house