HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: darryl.rowe@tfd.gwinnett.com (Darryl Rowe) 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
Subject: Re: DOES AMERICA SAY YES TO JAPAN? - Off track!!
Date: 27 Dec 92 15:30:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: The Fifth Dimension - Louisville, KY - 502-423-8654
Reply-To: darryl.rowe@tfd.gwinnett.com (Darryl Rowe) 


aki <aki@akidamme-233324.worldbank.org> wrote:

AK>strike! wah wah wha!".   The American industrial machine has
AK>for years depended on the stupidity of the American people to
AK>continue to buy their inferior products without question for
AK>"Moms apple pie".

Strike/get pay raise -> costs increase -> prices increase -> net loss in
pay (due to taxes and overhead)

I look, I shop, I buy what _I_ determine to be the best - regardless of
who makes it.  From what I'm seeing, the "If its not made in the USA
don't park it here" people are cutting their own throats.

AK>are out of a job, they just want to make as much money as they
AK>can, it's the American way.  So the germans, japanese and everybody

Indeed, the minimum wage should be expanded, IMO, to include graduated
pay scales and a _maximum_ wage.  Some (though not all) of these
presidents and CEOs who are making outrageous sums don't really do
anything to earn it.  In our company, the president makes 400% more than
the people who do the work and wants to hire entry-level people to do
the work - impossible in our situation.  I've advised that they at least
hire people familiar with the software to no avail (their salary
requirements are too high).  Paying for it with high turnover, too.
Current record for an administrative assistant is one week before she
resigned.  Plus the president wants to _network_ on top of the above and
still get by with temporaries and entry-level people rather than
specialists.  As for me ... well, spaghetti code means job security ...
or something like that.  :)  So far.  Till I leave as well.

AK>We have GOT to quit blaming everyone else for our problems, plain and
AK>simple.  We haven't corrected our economic problems because we
AK>haven't identified it as being OUR problem and not generated by
AK>somebody else.  Go ahead blame everyone else, if the "American"
AK>companies go out of business, they have no one to blame but
AK>themselves...

I agree.  But I think a lot more of the blame goes toward the
politicians and their proclivity for deficit spending.  Which has spread
to the "common man" - too much debt, so of course you want more $.
---
 . SLMR 2.0 . Backup not found: (A)bort (R)etry (P)anic
                             
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
From: 6sigma@halcyon.com (Six Sigma CASE (Brian L. Matthews))
Subject: Re: Getting rich -- this is no joke!
Organization: The 23:00 News and Mail Service
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1993 20:00:37 GMT

In article <1993Jan3.061435.3402@netcom.com> erc@netcom.com (Eric Smith) writes:
|In article <1993Jan3.001640.16834@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> stank@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (Stan Krieger) writes:
|>U.S. social security is not a pyramid scheme; it's a Ponzi scheme
|>(i.e., pay off the early investors with money received from later
|>investors).
|Social security is not quite the same thing as a Ponzi scheme.  When
|people discover the truth about a Ponzi scheme, they stop investing,
|and it comes to a sudden end.  People have already discovered the truth
|about social security, but it shows no signs of ending.

Of course the consequences of pulling out of your normal Ponzi scheme
aren't quite the same as deciding not to pay social security any more.

Brian
Newsgroups: misc.consumers
From: phr@telebit.com (Paul Rubin)
Subject: Re: electric razor experience
Organization: Telebit Corporation; Sunnyvale, CA, USA
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1992 01:58:52 GMT

In article <1hn4paINN329@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> jxs18@po.CWRU.Edu (Jerry Sy) writes:

   Now I got a brand new Braun 2000 (2-position) ($47 at wal-mart).
   It definitely shaves closer than norelco, will work with or without
   the cord (norelco 805 only works cordless).  downside, it is VERY
   noisy and it feels like you are holding a massager on your hand due
   to the strong vibrations. other advantages, replacement blade is
   cheaper ($15 compared to $20 for norelco), more compact in size,
   has autovolt feature (works anywhere from 12v-220v AC or DC).  I do
   like the pop-up trimmer of norelco better than braun, braun's
   trimmer is too close to the foil and might catch your sideburns.
   well, I'll just see how long this thing last.

The Braun foil blade may need replacing more often; I don't know.
The Norelco rotary blades are self sharpening.  My Norelco is over
5 years old and I've never replaced the blades.  It is a 660tx
and it is autovolt.  I'm surprised if the 805 is not autovolt.
From: frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Seeking advice to get rid of fleas
Date: 23 Dec 92 19:16:22 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Xyvision Design Systems

In article <78545@hydra.gatech.EDU> cc100aa@xray.gatech.edu (Ray Spalding) writes:
>Does anyone know of an effective way to get rid of fleas living in
>furniture and carpet?
>
I have had great luck with a flea trap.

A 10" skillet with a bare bulb clip light centered over it.  Add about
quart of water and a tablespoon of dish soap.  Place in a cool, shut
room.  Come back it two days to find a bowl full of dead fleas.


-- 
	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Distribution: world
From: GioF@ultramac.uucp (Gio Favignano)
Organization: Odyssey Ultraware, Inc
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 03:09:11 CDT
Subject: Re: T1-11  What is it?

In article <1992Dec18.004703.132832@ultramac.uucp>,
Ref: T1-11 What is it.
>I have it on my house and have a terrible problem with mildew.  I assume
>that the siding is the source of the problem.  I do not have any of the
>usual causes for mildew - house is well insulated & has proper vapor
>barrier on heated side of insulation, house is on high foundation on a
>steeply sloping lot so there is no water standing, no trees close to house
>to shade it & retain moisture on the house.  I can't say for sure that
>the siding is the problem, but I would never take a chance on it again.

>Steve


Agreed! I do not like the product much myself. Basically a cheap way of
sheating a house or building.
Gio
GioF@ultramac.uucp (Gio Favignano) 
St. Louis, Mo.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: saskaw@thelma.unx.sas.com (Kathryn Wisniewski)
Subject: Weevils in Grain (SUMMARY)
Originator: saskaw@thelma.unx.sas.com
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 14:00:44 GMT
Organization: SAS Institute Inc.
Keywords: bugs, food, yech, gross, weevils


This is a summary of the responses I got to my
post asking what to do about weevils (moths and
worms) in the grain products in my cabinets.
Thanks to all that replied.

Several replies were from people as desperate
as me!  The recommendations I got, in order, are:

(1) Throw out all grain products, whether or not
    you think they're infested. This includes
    rice, flour, cornmeal, cake-mix, and cereal.
    (I did this).

(2) Clean the cabinets thoroughly. (ditto).

(3) Store any new grain in plastic or glass 
    containers. (NOTE:  I did this, and the bugs
    got past the lids on the glass containers, so
    make sure you have an air-tight seal).

 -OR-

    Store new grain in the refrigerator or
    freezer to kill the little creatures and make
    it hard for them to get to the stuff.

(4) If all else fails, call the exterminator.


I'm going to try the freezer approach, since I don't
have much in there anyway.  Thanks for your
friendly responses. This was my first post and I
found it quite pleasant!
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg)
Subject: Re: How to go low?
Organization: The College On The Other Side Of Route One
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 18:56:18 GMT

In article <Bzy0wq.6yE@boi.hp.com> bobpassl@boi.hp.com (Bob Passell) writes:
=Another request for net.wisdom!
=
=I have my house on the market, priced $100 dollars below
=the nearest $100,000 that I think its worth (hint: way less
=than 1/2 million, that's for sure ;-> ). My realtor says
=that I need to go to $?79,900 in order to sell it. Personally,
=I think she's wrong, and I have some measure of respect for
=her telling me news that I don't want to hear. However...
=Keeping in mind that her contract is up on 12/31/92

=Homes in our area sell for just about what we're asking all
=the time, in an average of 90-110 days. We've been on the 
=market for 95 days and have had lots of activity but no
=offers. I have called a sample of the realtors bringing
=clients through and not one of them has said "lower the
=price, stupid" even though I've led them to the point 
=where they could graciously say so. I'm not in a hurry,
=but cripes, I _do_ want to sell the house.

What *did* they say about why no one made an offer?

I'd recommend calling a few REs and getting MVAs from them. There's only
one reason that a house doesn't sell, and that's price. If no one has
made an offer, it may be that the asking price is indeed far out of line.
Date: Monday, 21 Dec 1992 08:40:23 MST
From: <AOAFF@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Logs made of rolled newspaper

I have one of those contraptions to roll newspapers. Can anyone give
me any hints on how to feed newspaper through it without having the
paper unravel when adding the next section? Thanks, Allen.
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: blown-in cellulose and recessed lights
Date: 30 Dec 92 05:09:29 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Dec29.203550.4039@phx.mcd.mot.com> fredch@phx.mcd.mot.com (Fred Christiansen) writes:
>To insulate my 1700 sq-ft attic to R-30, I can buy fiberglass batts for
>about $600 or cellulose for the same plus/minus small change.  However,
>the pros can do it for me for $500 for batts or $400 for cellulose (I got
>5 bids).  I'm inclined towards the cellulose; in fact, before the ceiling
>was drywalled I installed air vent chutes where I have intake vents.

I'd still go with the fiberglass (or rock wool - I will see if I can ferret
out a source for you), simply because of the compaction/moisture problems with
cellulose.

>However, one problem with cellulose that I haven't solved yet is what
>to do about my recessed lights and attic scuttle hole.  I have recessed
>lights in my 3 walk-in closets (code requirements could only be met by
>using 'em), 2 bathrooms, and over the kitchen sink.  I checked the info
>that came with the lights and they want insulation backed away by 3 inches.

>I asked one installer what they do and he said, "Oh, the guys just brush
>the cellulose back away from the lights."  Sounds quick, dirty, and slapdash
>to me.

Me too.

>Are there better ways?  Could I erect some kind of barrier so that
>the full depth of cellulose could be had right up to the 3" demarcation?  Thx.

This is in the wiring FAQ.

Use recessed fixtures that are rated for full insulation burial.  They
cost a bit more, but they're fail-safe.  They have thermal protection etc.
They work - we've tested their thermal cutouts quite a bit...

Canadian codes (or rather, inspector/bulletin rules) require that
non-direct-burial-rated recessed fixtures are surrounded by a approximately
8 cubic foot plywood box - to make absolutely certain no insulation falls
over top of the fixture.  Not a great idea...
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: manes@magpie.nycenet.edu (Steve Manes)
Subject: Re: Drywall Repair Questions
Organization: Manes and Associates, NYC
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 19:48:00 GMT
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7]

Jon von Zelowitz (vonzelow@adobe.com) wrote:
: In article <1992Dec29.143654.12316@nynexst.com> smierch@fun.com writes:
: >2) In a couple places where drywall sheets butt together, the horizontal
: >   joint is visible as a raised line on the wall.
: 
: I believe this is an example of why some people say not to hang the
: sheets horizontally. Since you can only fasten those horizontal edges
: every 16", and there is nothing holding the panels down except at
: those points, there is more chance of bumpy joints.

Either method of drywall hanging has its problems.  For vertical
applications the problem is weakness at the long vertical joint,
especially if one or both edges have been scored and snapped.  In
a metal stud frame, the flexibility of the wall may lead to cracked
seams.  In a wood stud frame, I've seen the seam pop completely when
the stud underneath apparently warped and loosened the drywalls screws.
I prefer horizontal drywall application, especially in high walls.
Staggering the seam helps stiffen the wall and distribute stresses.
-- 
Stephen Manes					   manes@magpie.nycenet.edu
Manes and Associates/Commontech-NoHo		   New York, NY, USA  =o&>o

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: gregw@NeoSoft.com (Greg White)
Subject: Epoxy paint on concrete floors
Organization: NeoSoft Communications Services -- (713) 684-5900
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1992 16:40:06 GMT

Due to our large menagarie (Two dogs, four cats, and four ferrets) 
and due to the inevitable mistakes,  my wife and I are considering
pulling up our needs-to-be-replaced carpeting and replacing it
with something more pet-resistant.
 
Ideally we would like to put down ceramic tile.  However the cost
is prohibitive at this time, but we would like to leave that
possibility open for a later date.
 
My thoughts were to level out any rough spots in the concrete slab
and paint the floor with a durable epoxy paint decorated with
designs and washable throw rugs.
 
Has anybody tried this and can anyone give recommendations on brands
of epoxy paint? Pros, cons, etc.
 
Also any pitfalls to later installing ceramic tile over the paint.
Will it have to be removed (Can it be removed?)
 
Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks,
 

-- 
Greg White
 
=== POST NO SIGS ===
From: rrw@sunset.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: are mortgage points tax-deductible?
Date: 23 Dec 92 04:32:38 GMT
Originator: rrw@sunset.cse.nau.edu

From article <1427@pdxvme.pdx.csd.mot.com>, by cah@pdx.csd.mot.com (Chris Huey):
> wouldn't know.  Best bet is to consult with a tax accountant.  
> 
> -- 
> Chris Huey                                               Motorola Computer Group

  Since I just finished re-financing my house, I was talking with my CPA
 today.  What he said in a nutshell is that on a RE finance, neither the
 points NOR the fees are deductible in the year they occur.  What 
 happens is that the points are deductible over the life of the loan, 
 and that the fees MAY be used to adjust the basis of the house (ie,
 the cost) if and when it is sold, depending on other factors such
 as whether a gain or a loss is involved, and whether it has been
 used as a rental.

 This is in Colorado, although I assume that the Federal implications
 are the same nationwide...

- Bob Wier

  ---------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ----------
                   College of Engineering
      Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff Arizona
  Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | WB5KXH | fax:602 523 2300
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: allen@tessi.com (Allen Warren)
Subject: Re: How to go low?
Organization: Test Systems Strategies, Inc., Beaverton, Oregon
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1992 19:26:05 GMT

pjh@mccc.edu (Pete Holsberg) writes:

>In article <Bzy0wq.6yE@boi.hp.com> bobpassl@boi.hp.com (Bob Passell) writes:
>=Another request for net.wisdom!
>=
>=I have my house on the market, priced $100 dollars below
>=the nearest $100,000 that I think its worth (hint: way less
>=than 1/2 million, that's for sure ;-> ). My realtor says
>=that I need to go to $?79,900 in order to sell it. Personally,
>=I think she's wrong, and I have some measure of respect for
>=her telling me news that I don't want to hear. However...
>=Keeping in mind that her contract is up on 12/31/92

>=Homes in our area sell for just about what we're asking all
>=the time, in an average of 90-110 days. We've been on the 
>=market for 95 days and have had lots of activity but no
>=offers. I have called a sample of the realtors bringing
>=clients through and not one of them has said "lower the
>=price, stupid" even though I've led them to the point 
>=where they could graciously say so. I'm not in a hurry,
>=but cripes, I _do_ want to sell the house.

>What *did* they say about why no one made an offer?

>I'd recommend calling a few REs and getting MVAs from them. There's only
>one reason that a house doesn't sell, and that's price. If no one has
>made an offer, it may be that the asking price is indeed far out of line.

Or . . . maybe this time of year is not the best for home sales?  I've
owned and sold two previous homes, and I sold both of them in the spring.
I studied the market, got comps and talked with several real estate
people.  This time of year is exceptionally slow for home sales.  Why?
The holidays, school, winter approaching, etc.  Yes, your asking price
could indeed be way out of line, but if someone is REALLY interested in 
your house, there's nothing stopping them from making a low offer, is there?
I have a colleague who took a position with our company here in Oregon 
while he and his wife still owned a home in California.  He moved up to
Oregon to work and he lived in Oregon, she with the kids in California,
for over 6 months before they sold their house, and they got several
offers over 25% lower than the asking price.  If you're a homebuyer, and
you want a house, there's no risk in actually asking your agent to
submit an offer of 10% or more less than the asking price.  Sure, some
offers are so ridiculous that a realtor will try to talk a potential
buyer out of making the offer simply because it's too low, but if the
offer is not too far off from the price, there's nothing really stopping
a potential buyer from giving it a try.

allen
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Propane leak detector
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 92 22:06:50 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Bob Wier) writes:
  [  about propane leak detectors ]

> I looked in some of the instrumentation catalogs
> here and the price is BREATHTAKING. We are talking
> maybe a kilobuck  - this is in the Davis
> instrumentation catalog.  

Check with RV, "manufactured home", and boat dealers. The first two
are major users of LP and propane, and can probably refer you to 
some less expensive sources. I think some boats, notably house 
boats, use some LP/propane, and may have some that will detect 
gasoline vapor as well (fire on boats is a *major* paranoia).

Have you looked into digging a trench from your basement to the
outside, and putting a door into the basement wall? No idea if 
your yard slopes that much, or if you have room for that, but 
it seems there should be *some* way to put a floor-level vent
in that would satisfy the code requirements. Even if you call the
vent a basement entrance....

(I hate knee-jerk building codes; they're usually idiotic....)

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: asalerno@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (antonio.j.salerno..jr)
Subject: Re: Whole house humidifiers.
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1992 19:48:11 GMT

In article <1992Dec30.184020.3845@nsisrv.gsfc.nasa.gov> john@ice.stx.com writes:
>I'm looking for a good Humidifier to install on my furnace.  I have looked
>at AprilAir and Sears versions so far.  They operate in completely different ways.  One has a spinning drum and the other sprays water into a metal mesh. Anyone have any reccomendations on which type/brand is better and on how
>hard to install these things can be.  Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>John DiMarzio
>Hughes STX Corp.
>john@ice.stx.com

I just had an April-Aire model installed on my furnace.  I asked the same 
question you just did a month or two ago and only got a few responses.
(I won't repost the whole summay here, e-mail me if you want it).

Basically what I found out is that there are many different types of
humidifiers.  The drum type - which roll a drum (or belt) around in a pan 
of water and then the forced air kind, which force air through a screen 
which has water running over it. (These are the only types I considered)

I counted out the drum type because I don't want a pan of water sitting around
exposed to the air blowing around in the ducts.

Of the forced air kinds, there are two, one that collects the water 
in a pan and keeps recirculating it over the screen.  This one requires 
cleaning of the pan and has a pump (to pump the water over the screen).  
The other, does not collect the water, it lets it run over the screen and 
then down the drain.  No pan and no pump (unless there is no drain near 
your furnace).

I finally settled on the April-Aire model 550.  It is a non-recirculating
type.  The water is trickled over a mesh that the air is forced through.
Then the water drains out of the unit.  I draind it into the condensation
pump for the air conditioner (so I didn't have to buy another pump, I don't
have a floor drain near the furnace.  I did have to change the pump
destination to be indoors).

I had it installed.  I could have done all of it except connect it electrically
to the furnace, but I really didn't want to spend the time.

My mother has had an April-Aire recirculating unit on her furnace for about
ten years and has never had a problem with it I could not fix.

I believe the drum (belt) types require more maintenance (cleaning), but
are much easier to install.

Tony
-- 
=-=-= These opinions are nothing but my own, and I may not even want them =-=-=
Tony Salerno
antonio.j.salerno@att.COM                "These pretzels are makin' me thirsty"
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: hester@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Bob Hester)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1992 16:38:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Propane Refrigerator Question
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO