HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Ford power locks
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:33:42 +0000


> Being in a hurry (and thanks to a bold burst of stupidity), I decided
> to cut through the tape and route the wires elsewhere.  I chopped through
> the tape in one fell swoop, and, as if I need to say it, sparks flew
> everywhere quite gloriously.

> Any tips or pointers are appreciated..

Next time, don't be such a dickhead and disconnect the battery before
you start.


Prat 8-(   I hope it costs you a fortune to fix it.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: dead battery needed to pushstart
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:33:52 +0000


> Do NOT operate your car without a battery installed (dead or alive). The
> battery is a critical piece of the charging system. Without one installed
> the voltages will be well above normal and will be unfiltered DC.


Amen to that....

I had a hire car fail on me once, a faulty regulator overcharged the
battery, which then boiled dry (in about 200 miles flat). Once the
battery finally dried out, the engine cut within seconds (right in
the middle of a motorway too 8-(  )

Practically all the electrics were trashed, including the radio.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
From: george@mech.seas.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Date: 18 Aug 92 14:59:04 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania, Mechanical Engineering


:Ooops.  My car doesn't have spark plug wires... no alternator.  My
:mixture is still rich though.
:

maybe you've not got enough steam pressure in the boiler.
From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Blueprinting - What is it.
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 00:24:02 -0500

 TC> (DOERSCHUK,DAVID OAKES) writes:
 TC> [description of blueprinting]
 TC> >1.  Take a die grinder and smooth the interior of the ducts.
 TC> >
 TC> >2.  Put the sheet of blue carbon-paper-like material between
 TC> >    the ducts, and bolt the ducts together.  Then unbolt'em.
 TC> >    From the pattern of blue carbon on the 2 duct faces (i.e.
 TC> >    the exhaust manifold and the head) and also by looking at the
 TC> >    pattern on the blue sheet itself, you can figure out what
 TC> >    parts of the manifold or head need to be ground away to 
 TC> >    make the junction smooth.
 TC> 
 TC> then what's porting and polishing?
 TC> is that the same as blueprinting?

In porting and polishing, the emphasis is on enlarging and smoothing out the
ports. The manifold gasket can be used as a template for matching up the ports,
but it is probably not as exact as the blueprinting method.
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: reducing understeer (and other questions)
Date: 19 Aug 92 19:08:58 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Aug19.190858.26168
Distribution: usa
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <1992Aug18.225137.2482@nic.csu.net> vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu) writes:
>In article <1992Aug18.220800.20332@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>>In article <1992Aug17.232828.2470@nic.csu.net> vpopesc@opus.uucp (Valentin Popescu) writes:
>>
>>>o  Can anyone tell me what the normal way of reducing understeer is? The
>>>   car in question is an 1985 Dodge Daytona with 2.2l Turbo engine and
>>>   front wheel drive. P195-50R15 tires. (It understeers annoyingly.. at
>>>   least compared to what I used to drive before)
>>

	To reduce understeer, decrease front roll stiffness or
increase rear roll stiffness.  Better yet, get Fred Puhn's
"How to make your car handle"...you probably will be able
to pick it up at a well-stocked trak/giant auto store.

--Ken
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zdem0a@hgo7.hou.amoco.com (Donna Martz)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Organization: Amoco
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 15:43:55 GMT

agwiii@fang.att.com (Grayson Walker (660-7949)(12/92)) writes:

>For easy access, it is hard to beat the Triumph TR 2,3,4 line.
>Easy to reach the mechanical bits and not much need to reach them
>very often. Even the body panels come off with just a screw-driver.
>(The engine was, after all, taken from the Standard Tractor.)

I agree.  Ten years ago I replaced the clutch and release bearing in my
3A under the shade tree in my yard.  It was no trouble at all, (lift the 
tunnel from the interior and you can access the transmission while sitting 
in the car).  This car doesn't have a very high saftey rating, but is LOTS 
of fun to drive around town and is Very easy to maintain.   As much as a 
like the Nissan that I now own, I think that the person who wants replace 
the tractor motor with a "Jap" engine is SERIOUSLY DEMENTED!
From: york@oakland-hills.lucid.com (Bill York)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: New tires for Integra
Date: 20 Aug 92 19:21:01 GMT
Reply-To: York@Lucid.COM
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Lucid, Inc.

I need to replace the uninspiring Michelin MXV tires on my '88 Acura
Integra, and I was looking for some recommendations.  My local tire
shop suggests Yokohama AVS Intermediates.  Anyone with experience with
these tires?  I'm not going to be autocrossing this car or anything
(my other car is a 911), but I would like somewhat better grip and
turn-in response.  If it ever rains again here in Northern California,
I guess that I would not want to sacrifice wet-weather traction on
this, my primary family car.

I'm also thinking of upping the roll stiffness a bit (in the long
run).  Anyone with experience in this area?
From: jefftb@hpmwtd.sr.hp.com (Jeff Brown)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 18:47:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Natural Gas Power - Good or Bad???
Organization: HP Santa Rosa Site (NMD MTA MWTD)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Pacific Gas and Electric has an experimental fleet of LNG ( is that right?)
trucks. It's is very clean but I believe they have a very short range. The 
application in mind are service fleet vehicles that can come home every night
for refueling. You might want to contact PG&E, but I think any wide spead 
use of natural gas as a motor fuel is at least years away.

Jeff Brown
From: lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Date: 13 Aug 92 19:56:16 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.146.12.28

>>>>I'm starting a new survey.
>>>>
>>>>What makes and models of cars are - in your opinion - best designed
>>>>in the sense of:
>>>>
>>>>   a). Easy routine maintenance...
>>>>   b). Easy repair...
>>>>
>>>>...at home (i.e. without a hoist and fancy tools)?


A '57 Chevy with a small block V8.  There is so much room in the
engine compartment, you just climb in over the fender, get in there 
with the engine, and go to work....except that you hardly ever need to.

  
Regards,

Jim Lockwood - KM6NK
notjim@acidqueen.eng.sun.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Large Drop in Oil Pressure on Decelleration
Keywords: Oil Pressure Grand Am
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 16:28:05 GMT

 have just one word for you...oil slosh..okay thats two words...but...
on hard stops, depending on location of the oil pump..you probably just
are sloshing all the oil toward the front of the engine and away from
the pump...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Turbocharger Rebuild
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 00:31:00 +0000


> Can anyone who has experience with turbocharger rebuilds give me some help.


I'd run it until it shows signs of failure, then go for a
professional rebuild. The real problem in doing the rebuild is in
checking/balancing it afterwards, and if thats wrong it will chew
itself up in no time. 25 thou play isn't a serious problem, and there
is plenty more life left in it yet.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:26:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> >info...I personally feel that he is trying to 'improve' the Mona
-> Lisa with >a crayon, however.

> Swapping a small block Chevy into Jauguar XJ's has been popular for
> at least 30 years.  The Chevy engine doesn't have the oil fouling

 Yeah.  The Jag motor isn't exactly real hot stuff, either.  Big, heavy,
longish stroke, small valve, and the transmission ain't exactly
wonderful to boot.

 Back when they were more common, there used to be a couple of companies
making kits to put the Pontiac Sprint SOHC six in the Jag.
                                                                     
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 23:32:46 GMT
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire help
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, Tom Santos <tom_santos@taligent.com> writes:

>What are the symptoms of having bad spark plug wires?
>I just had new platinum plugs put in and my timing set but something
>still seems a bit funny.

What you usually feel is an bit of a jerk when accelerating, rather
intermittant.  This is due to just one cylinder not firing
intermittantly.

The best test is to wait until it is dark, start the engine, open the
hood, and take a look.  If you have bad wires, you will see a "light
show" in the engine compartment as the voltage arcs around the OUTSIDE
of the wires.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
From: enns@waterloo.hp.com (Roger Enns)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Saab 900 Turbo problems
Date: 13 Aug 92 18:49:06 GMT
Organization: HP Panacom Div Waterloo ON Canada
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1scd1 PL5

I would suggest purchasing a shop manual on your auto.  Take a
look in it, and see if clutch adjustment is necessary.  It sounds
like your clutch is pooched to me, but maybe you'll get lucky.
If you want to replace it yourself, again, buy the manual, and
read through the procedures mentioned.  It is not an easy job!

With regards to your clunking sounds in the steering, why not
have a friend turn the wheel back and forth while you have your
head underneath the car.  Maybe you will be able to see what is
hitting.  A set of jack stands would make this much easier.

Good Luck, Roger Enns (enns@waterloo.hp.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine/special equip.
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1992 01:59:10 GMT

In article <1992Aug20.170452.5862@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, ehawrysh@bmers217.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh) writes:
>In article <23806@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, beglin@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Gordon Beglin) writes:
>|> I'm not too sure you need anything like the above. I have an '85 Ranger
>|> that *does* need a VOM or something for the indications, but my '88
>|> T'Bird outputs the codes over the "Check Engine" light.
>|> 
>|> Viola! Nothing more to hook up! Isn't this the way it should be--
>|> to be able to check your computer without (except for the jumper)
>|> leaving the driver's seat?
>|> 
>|> Maybe they've changed things on the newer models, but I can't see why
>|> they would want to de-invent helpful things like this.
>|> 
>|> BTW, I've had not trouble at all out of the EEC-IV that I haven't been
>|> able to fix. Just my experiences.....
>|> 
>|> Regards,
>|> Gordon Beglin
>
>I've got an '88 5.0 Mustang and have tried to obtain the codes through the
>"Check Engine" light, but to no success. I patched the proper wires, but
>when I turn the key, nothing. The light isn't burnt out, since it comes on
>when starting. I'll have to try it with the VOM. Could there be a fusible 
>link along the diag. wires that is blown?
>
>Evan
>
In just about every Ford EEC-IV I've seen, if you have stick, the error codes
are flashed on the otherwise useless "shift" light.
From: todd_oconnor@taligent.com (Todd O'Connor)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HONDA PRELUDE wiper skips/jumps/nasty!
Date: 21 Aug 92 18:22:56 GMT
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
X-Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 11:23:40 GMT
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d3


I had this problem on my Mitsubishi Eclipse but it was becuase the wipers weren't
"broke-in" yet.  We get very little rain here in CA so my wipers are used very
infrequently.  When I did have to use them a lot, in a rare shower, the wipers
skipped and jumped because they were leaving black rubber residue on the
windshield.  Razor blade the stuff off the windshield and the wipers seem to work
OK.

Todd
todd_oconnor@taligent.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward)
Subject: Re: Dura Lube
Organization: University of Illinois, Dept. of Comp. Sci., Urbana, IL
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 17:47:51 GMT

John_A_Pham@cup.portal.com writes:

>Does anyone know anything about Dura Lube?  The ad shows that
>Dura Lube outperform Slick 50, Mobil 1, Penzoil, and others

>John

Is this the new stuff by STP?  I just saw the new STP stuff at 
K-mart and it was making such claims, but, I can't even recall the 
name.  So what is this stuff?

ward
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: Clocks anyone?
Organization: I can't see any in the immediate vicinity...
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 02:02:15 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.224304.14958@i88.isc.com> dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
>Just clean up the
>contacts and it should be as good as new (or if it is a borg unit,
							 ^^^^^^^^^
>replace it with the quartz guts from Whitney).

And do it fast!  Otherwise, it'll try to assimilate you.

"Corroded contacts are irrelevent."  :-)

>Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
>Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
>(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
>dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |


-- 
				Kevin Brown

			    kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com
			    kevin@taronga.taronga.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Rear-end Bearings
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 14:36:46 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: auto, repair

 I don't know about the newer Chevy rear ends but many had inboard C-clip
retainers which hold the axle in rather than outboard retainer plates. The
10-bolts were this way as were some but not all 12-bolts. If you have C-clips
you must remove the differential cover to get them off and remove the axle.

 If you can see past the brake backing plate, look for the place where the
axle exits the axle tube. If you can see the end of the tube and it's just
sticking out, it's got C-clips. If there is a separate plate that hides the
end of the axle tube that plate is probably the retainer. 

 Bearings typically are removed by cutting them with a chisel. Do not damage
the axle itself. 

 On some axles the bearings are "permanently" lubricated and do not permit
greasing. Also there are oil seals typically inboard a few inches from the
bearing which you might consider removing and replacing. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: cfaks@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Alice Sanders)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: $400 to fix oil problem in Cutlass?
Date: 12 Aug 92 15:28:52 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Eastern Illinois University

My daughter called me from NM last night and told me that it had cost $400
to fix her car while she was on this camping trip.  She said the guy told
her that the 'oil lines to the engine were clogged and there was oil on
the spark plugs'.  He first tried to sell her something even more
expensive.  But then he said he would clean out the lines to the engine
and tune up the car, etc.  He charged her $400.  

I know when you go to higher altitudes, you sometimes have to get the
carburetor reset and get a different oil.  He told her no oil was getting
to the engine.  The car would barely go.

I'm interested in some opinions as to what this could have been and
whether $400 sounds reasonable for this work.  (Maybe he did something
with the rings, since the plugs were getting fouled.)

He said the seals were good.

Thanks.  

Alice
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: Rodney Weir <rjw@softserver.canberra.edu.au>
Subject: Temperature, humidity and performance?
Organization: University of canberra
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1a2
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 22:16:44 GMT

Can someone please shed some light on the subject of how the outside
temperature and humidity in the air affects engine performance.  I drive
a 1976 TX Gemini (1.6L) and it seems that whenever it is very humid or
raining, the car drives better than it usually does.  It idles smoother,
has greater acceleration and greater top-end.  Could this reflect a
problem with my engine or the way it is set up?  It is basically stock
except for a set of 4-1 extractors, a Weber 32/36 D/D carb and a
re-curved dizzy.   I have also noticed that on dyno test reports, a
figure is also quoted for temperature and relative humidity.  Can someone
out there explain this...

Cheers,

Rodney.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: '57 TR3 no engine go jap?
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:33:40 +0000


> plan to replace all that fine Lucas electrical hardware with something
> that actually knows how to get 'trons from here to there and back.


Just what don't you guys like about Lucas kit ?  Is there something
in particular that has offended you, or is it just because they
aren't made in the US of A ?


OK, so I completely rewired my SO's Triumph Herald a while back.
Just don't ask about Rover Sterling heated rear window relays  8-)

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: alarm system recommendati
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 05:16:35 GMT

Jeff Masterman (jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us) wrote:

: Buy a "Club" I don't want to have to listen to yet another false
: Auto-alarm. (G)...but seriously the HPD says the Club is better anyway.
: It goes across the steering wheel and prevents it from being turned.

It only stops the wheel from turning if the crook doesn't hacksaw thru the 
steering wheel.  I agree that it would probably stop joyriders, but if someone
is taking your car to a chop-shop, they won't hesitate to hack the steering
wheel.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: rossi@gvlf9-q.gvl.unisys.com (Pete Rossi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Why does car stall when going downhill or sudden stops???
Date: 14 Aug 92 14:44:23 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Paramax Systems Corp (A Unisys Company), Great Valley Labs, PA

My 1977 Camaro (305, 2bbl carb, automatic) has always had problems stalling
if I make a sudden stop or if I stop going down a steep hill.  It has done
this to varying degrees on and off ever since the car was new.

The only thing that makes sense would be the carb float adjustment is off but
I have rebuilt the carb several times over the past 15 years, and each time
the float has been right on.  I even installed a new carb about 2 years ago
and it still has the problem at times.  I had the new carb apart about 4 months
ago and it's float adjustment is set according to specs.

This problem seems to come and go to varying degrees.  For the past few
weeks it has been worse.  I want to dig into it first chance it get but I
am somewhat at a loss as to what to check.  I have checked just about
everything else.  It had a complete tune up - new plugs, wires, air filter,
etc.etc etc about 4 months ago and is running GREAT otherwise.  Getting
terrific gas mileage.  It has lots of power/pickup, etc..  It sometimes
hesitates a little when it is cold but once it warms up 5 minutes it is fine.

But, I will be driving along, running great, then I stop at a light and it
suddenly idles real rough.  At the next light it may be just fine...   If
I stop suddenly it will stall 9 out of 10 times.  After a stall I have no
problem restarting it.

This is driving me nuts!!!!    Any ideas?

=================================================================
Pete Rossi - WA3NNA                  rossi@gvl.unisys.com

Paramax Systems Corporation - a Unisys Company
Electronic Systems - Valley Forge Labs - Paoli, Pennsylvania
=================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Chevy brakes - caliper rebuild
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 92 06:55:44 GMT

Ken Tubman (dprkmt@inetg1.ARCO.COM) wrote:
: 
: One of the pads on the front disks of my Chevy Astro wore out before
: the other 3 pads.  I am wondering about the cause.  It is the pad on the
: *opposite* side of the rotor from the piston (outboard pad).  

It sounds to me like the caliper is not free to slide/pivot in it's yoke.
I'm not familiar with your car, so I'm being vague.....

Both pads should wear at the same rate.  Snce only the outer one is wearing,
I don't think it's the piston; if it were, the inner one would wear. (I assume
the piston is on the inside!)

With the caliper not sliding/pivoting properly, the pressure you apply pulls that
pad into the rotor, but then it cannot release itself as normal when you take
your foot off the brake.  There should be a little play there, as that's what
un-applies the brake pad.          

Try cleaning & greasing (anti-seize?) the sliding areas on the caliper, I would
think that would help.  Make sure you don't get gunk on the pads or rotor, 
though (included that to avoid flames).  Good luck.
--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 92 04:17:11 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <Bsw7zE.79u@taligent.com> todd_oconnor@taligent.com (Todd O'Connor) writes:
>In article <1992Aug12.004534.19969@athena.cs.uga.edu> James P. H. Fuller,
>fuller@athena.cs.uga.edu writes:
>>     I'd like to vote loudly and often for Jeeps.  They've been making
>>basically the same design since forever, they're simple as lawnmowers
>>and you can crawl under them without jacking them up.
>
>I'll second that vote. I'm on my second Jeep and just love 'em.
>

Triumph Herald/Vitesse.  The whole bonnet(hood) opens up forwards and the 
engine is just sitting there completely accessible just begging to be 
worked on...


-- 

Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand --