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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Sep 1992 12:11:32 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Plans for Food Dehydrator

It's taken me a little while; but, I've found some of my dehyderator plans.

I originaly thought the plans I's used came from popular mechanics DIY
encyclopedia; but, I couldn't find them there. I now suspect (87% shure) that
they came from Mother Earth News.

The plans I've found are a bit diferent from the ones I used; but, look like
they should work pretty well. They're pretty simple, with a designe for
elelctric and solar modles. They also refer to a more complex and more
efficient designe (The picture looks a lot like the one I built).

I'll send a copys of the plans I have to any one who sends me a SASE (business
envilope with postage for 4 pages (should be under 1 oz)).

According to my plans the more complex plans are available from:

        Cooperative Extension, U.S.D.A.
        Roberts Hall
        Cornell University
        Ithaca, NY. 14853

        Ask for Fruit Dryer Plan 6202



                Ron Tye
                2540 Country Hills Rd #142
                Brea, Calif. 92621   U.S.A.
From: mwagner@next.next.com (Mark Wagner)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: tuning a jointer
Keywords: jointer jet
Date: 1 Sep 92 20:57:17 GMT


I bought a Jet 6 inch jointer (new) about 6 months ago.  In the first
project in which I used it (jointing edges before gluing them up) it
worked ok but not great.  I found that the edges were smooth but not
straight (such that butting two jointed boards up against each other 
would leave a bit of a gap in the middle).  At first I thought that my
technique was lacking but now I'm beginning to think the machine is not
tuned properly.

The books I've consulted seem to say that this will happen if the infeed
and outfeed tables aren't perfectly parallel.  The problem, though, is
that I know of no adjustment on the machine for this.

Any advice would be welcomed...  Please either post or e-mail me directly.

mwagner@next.com
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Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Wed, 9 Sep 1992 10:39:39 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: Dado blade sizes

I've had good luck with a Freud 8" stacking dado on a 10" Craftsman
contractors saw; but, I've never tried to cut a 2" slot with it eather.

I believe a stacking dado puts less strain on the shaft than a wobil dado.

                        Ron Tye
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: equacken@encore.com (Eric E. Quackenbush)
Subject: Re: Under $500 6" Jointers
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:28:05 GMT
Keywords: jointer

I have the Jet JJ6, the predecessor to the one you are looking at.  I have  
been very happy with it and I've had it about 3 yrs now.

On the down side, when I received it the cutterhead was damaged and after
a few months the fence seemed to bow.  Both times my dealer just sent me
replacements.  I later found by putting the bowed fence between to blocks
of wood I could straighted it by standing on it and it stayed.  Now I have
a spare fence.

Eric Quackenbush
equacken@encore.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: SYSGAM@SUVM.SYR.EDU (Glenn A. Malling)
Subject: Re: Ceder siding crack repair
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 14:44:16 EDT

In article <1992Sep2.171510.108@ipact.com>
lakia@ipact.com writes:
 
>
>I need to repair the ceder siding on my house where it has
>cracked (actually done by the contractor slobs).  The
>building wrap exposed and I need to fill up to 1/4 inch
>cracks in a few places.
>
>My question is what type of filler should I use?
>
>
>Thanks
 
If you're talking about cedar clapboards I'd just replace the board.
They're not that hard to get out without damage to surrounding
boards.  Just pry it up a little at the bottom and cut the nails
with a hacksaw blade.  Also the board above and out it comes.
Cut the new board to size, slip in place nail, and finish.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: majewski@spsd630a.erim.org (Ron Majewski)
Subject: For Sale: Router table & bit
Organization: Environmental Research Institute of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan
Distribution: usa
Date: 9 Sep 92 21:32:37


For Sale: Sears Craftsman Router Table
          Model # 25444
          With Fence, guard, and miter guage
          Good condition
          $32 (UPS shipping included)

          Amana Carbide Tipped Router Bit
          1/2in dia plunge straight bit (#45427)
          2-1/2in long cutting surface
          1/2in shank
          Excellent condition (used only once -- really!)
          $19 (Postage paid)

Terms:    Postal Money Order up front

Contact:  Ron Majewski
          (313) 994-1200  x2480  (please use voicemail if I don't answer)
        
          Thanks!
--

Ron Majewski (majewski@erim.org)

The Environmental Research Institute of Michigan

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov (Soren LaForce)
Subject: Re: Advice about workshop tools
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Ames Res. Ctr. Mtn Vw CA 94035
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 15:29:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep8.185710.119245@marshall.wvnet.edu>, rcbi27@marshall.wvnet.edu (DBRUM) writes...
>In article <1992Sep4.121225.8765@icd.ab.com>, korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg) writes:
> 
>>  My wife will of course not give up
>> her parking spot...
> 
>Your problem here is going to be dust. My woodworking shop once shared a
>two-car garage with someone else's car, and I finally had to rig up a
>partition out of sheets of plastic and tape and twine in order to be 
>properly accommodating. A very, very, very fine layer of dust would settle
>all over the car, dust from the table saw, I believe, which, I believe,
>produces the finest, peskyest dust of all--dust so fine that even whiring
>down the highway would not remove it sufficiently; 

I believe that saws (and other power tools) produce an electrostatically
charged dust.  I think it is the charge on the dust, not its size, that
makes it cling so.


--Soren            laforce@xenon.arc.nasa.gov
From: kgp2a@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Kenneth G. Pote)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: AMT tools and quality thereof
Date: 15 Sep 92 18:36:48 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Department of Biology, Gilmer Hall, University of Virginia

I received a catalog  yesterday from a company called AMT (American 
Manufacturing and Tool Company). The prices for their tools are unbelievably 
low. WHat is the consensus opinion about the quality of their offerings?
I would appreciate hearing about any  of your experience with this company.
-Ken
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 10 Sep 1992 06:58:31 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Dado blade sizes

The instructions that came with my contractor saw (Delta) state the a 6"
dado is the limit.  I do not recommend a larger one and personally would
not even try it.  I use my dado often and have seldom had a project
where a larger blade would help.  In those cases I use a router or some
other approach.  Roger Barry
From: bwb1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (BRENT W. BENSON)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Black Walnut
Date: 9 Sep 92 17:31:25 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <18k8lpINNnes@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ag423@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Fran
k Fijalkovich) writes:
>
>A friend of mine has a black walnut tree in his back yard that he
>wants removed. Does anyone know if tree is worth anything and
>who would be interested in buying it ? It is about 2 to 2.5 feet
>in diameter. Thanks in advance for any info.
>
>                       Frank
>--
>
Around here...Penna... sawmills will not have anything to do with backyard
trees because they all have nails, staples, etc in them that ruin saw blades.
In fact, the small sawmills that will cut up odd lots for individuals require
a deposit to cover the cost of the blade, refunded if the blade is undamaged.
As they put it: You buy the blade at the start of cutting, they buy it back
when finished. Someone with a chain saw type portable sawmill might be
interested, however.  It would be a shame to have good walnut wasted.  The key
to its value is having the lowest limbs start well above the ground.  This is
another problem with backyard trees as they grow in the open and keep their
low limbs.  In the woods, low limbs are shaded and die off while the tree is
young, leaving clear wood in the trunk of the mature tree.
From: emw1@drutx.ATT.COM (Eileen M. Waitman)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: hardwood floors
Keywords: re-finishing
Date: 11 Sep 92 17:48:38 GMT
Distribution: rec
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO


I would like net.opinions for finishing hardwood floors.
Watco oil based or polyurethane?  Pros/Cons on each.
Or should I even be considering the oil based?
Thanks
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Hutch building suggestions requested
Summary: need help
Keywords: hutch, cheap wood
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1992 17:40:45 GMT

Hello All.

I am interested in getting some net.expertise on my next project, by far the
biggest thing I have ever built.  Specifically, I could use some advice on two
points.

A) I'm building the Hutch from Norm's first book (New Yankee Workshop), but I am
planning to build it out of oak instead of pine like he used.  Has anyone else
built this hutch, and especially has anyone built it out of hardwood.  I am having
a hard time visualizing what it would look like in oak.

B) (This is a more general question)  This is the first project I have built with
drawers, an internal frame, etc.  I am curious to know where I can "cheat" and not
use hard wood.  Can I make the carcase frame from pine since it doesn't show?  How
bout the drawer sides?  And the drawer backs?  I would appreciate any advice,
experienced or not, email or post is fine.

Thanks everyone,

ak
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: neek+@CS.CMU.EDU (Craig Marcus)
Subject: Dado blade sizes
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 15:11:53 GMT

I have the Delta 10" Contractor's table saw,
and would like to know if anyone w/ a similar
machine actually uses 10" Dado blades for
cross cutting.  Many times I would like
to simply cross-cut a 2" deep x 3/4" wide
notch in (for example) 4/4 oak.   When buying
my dado blades, the local wood supply warned
me not to use more than 6" blades on the 
contractor's saw, and therefore I cannot
raise these to the desired 2" height.  

Any similar experiences ?

Craig.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: dado blade & birch
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 14:24:16 GMT

>gonzo@tversky.psych.washington.edu (Rich Gonzalez) writes:
>
>>I just bought my first dado blade (acu-edge, carbide tipped).  Have
>>been practicing on pine, and happy with the results.
>>Then I switched to some scrap birch I have in my shop.  It just chipped 
>>away and the results were ugly (luckily I didn't get hurt).

One kludge to this problem is to use a utility knife (or one of those
nice Japanese marking knives if you have one) to score the two edges
of the dado prior to cutting. This prevents chipping quite well but
requires very precise measurement and scoring.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Advice about workshop tools
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 17:11:50 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.121225.8765@icd.ab.com> korsberg@kirk (Ed Korsberg) writes:

>Will the table saw "behave" or work differently when its cold
>(eg 38 degrees F) than warm (90 degrees F) ?

I'm working in an unheated single car garage myself, so I can empathise.
I get some relief by using a small electric heater which has a fan in it,
but I don't want to cut it on every time I'm in there, so I work in the
cold a lot.

I have a Grizzly table saw, with belt drive rear-mounted motor. In cold
weather, the motor takes a little longer to come up to speed. That's the
only difference.

When I worked professionally as a carpenter, I had occasion to use many
different power tools in temperatures ranging from 5 degrees to 130
degrees (those are measured, not "in the shade"). I never noticed any
problems caused by the cold. We *did* lose one or two tools because
of excessive heat, though.

One suggestion on making your shop more liveable. You might add a heavy
duty plastic dropcloth as a roll-up partition between the two halves
of your garage. Not only will it make it a little easier to heat "your"
half, it will prevent friction with your "better half" by cutting down
on the dust on her car.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: steveo@think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Spar Varnish
Date: 8 Sep 1992 12:51:01 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: olen.think.com


Howdy All,

Just this past weekend, I built a picnic table (ala Norm's), and decided
that a nice forest green color would suit it admirably. So taking Norm's
advice regarding an exterior stain, I visited my local paint store and told
the guy that I had a picnic table, with lots of horizontal surfaces that I
wanted to turn green. He recommended an exterior stain and that the
seat surfaces should be finished with a coat or two of spar varnish
(ie, exterior polyurethane). When I asked why, he said that the stain
would chalk, and the chalk would rub off on people's seats. The SV would
prevent that.

My concern is that it would be akin to paint; eventually
blistering/peeling and need scraping, and re-SVing. The last I can handle,
but the others...

So, does anyone have any experience with this? Or is this a tradeoff
situation, of either put up with scraping, or put up with the chalking?

Thanks!

Steveo
-- 
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Application Engineer              |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
From: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Using a timber drill
Date: 7 Sep 92 14:20:46 GMT
Reply-To: david@talgras.UUCP (David Hoopes)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tallgrass Technologies Inc.


I do some voleenter work at a local historic site.  Saturday we started in
on a new project that involves timber frame construction.  I had never done
this before, but the other guy seemed to know what he was doing, and I can
always learn.  My friend is a hand tool nut.  He wants to do this whole
project by hand.  For drilling the 2in wide holes through these 6in wide
oak timbers (to start the mortises), my friend presented me with a 
timber drill.  I was a little sceptical.  It looked like a lot of work.  
However, we gave it a try.  I was truely impressed.  The chips that it 
takes out are almost 1/8 in. thick.  What really impressed me was that 
there was little if any drift. I know that if you tried the same thing 
with a spade bit and an electric drill you would never be to sure where 
you where going to come out on the other side of the timber.  After 
drilling a few holes, I was converted.  I was ready to agree that we 
could do the whole project this way.

However, this morning I can hardly move my arms.  We only drilled 6 holes,
and we have 5 zillion to go.  So, I am back to wondering if there isn't a
better way to do this.  Any sudjestions?  I need something portable that
can bore a 2 in. hole through a 6 in. oak timber.  It needs some way to 
guide it so that it will go straight through.


-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Hoopes                              Tallgrass Technologies Inc. 
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x323                Lenexa, Ks  66214
From: eap@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Edward A. Parrish)
Subject: Advice on Lathe
Originator: eap@dean2
Organization: Vanderbilt University School of Engineering, Nashville, TN, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 15:37:37 GMT

I'm going to purchase a wood lathe and would appreciate the
netwisdom in selecting one. About 12 years ago, I bought
a Sears lathe - very rudimentary - for hand work. When I
moved about 5 years ago, I sold it (hung onto several other
large tools, tho). Anyway, now I'd like to get back into
that portion of my hobby.

This time I'd like at least one screw control to advance the
cutter rather than only being able to do so by hand. I picked
up from this group that Craftsman table and radial arm saws
of todays vintage are not as good as some years ago. Thus,
the question - what is recommended?

Thanks, Ed.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com (Les Bartel)
Subject: Re: Cutting aluminum on a table saw
Reply-To: lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Dazix, An Intergraph Company
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 15:57:12 GMT

In article <6879@vtserf.cc.vt.edu>, cohill@vtserf.cc.vt.edu (Andrew M. Cohill) writes:
|> In article <1992Sep14.210943.14277@eos.arc.nasa.gov> phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone) writes:
|> >I have heard that it is possible to do nice clean cuts through
|> >aluminum with a table saw.  Does this apply to relatively thick
|> >(1/8") stock?
|> >
|> 
|> We used to routinely cut aluminum stock up to 1/4" thick with a
|> hand-held circular saw.  Use a moderately fine tooth blade; on a 10"
|> table saw you probably want something like a 40 tooth blade.  Wear
|> goggle--the chips go everywhere and have a lot more kinetic energy than
|> wood.  Also wear ear protection;  the noise will scare the hell out of
|> you.  Bit it's quick and easy.

I have heard that it works even better to turn the blade around so that
it turns backwards.  You probably don't want to do this with a carbide
tipped blade though.  I have not tried this, so I can't vouch for this
from experience.  Yeah, I think it might be a little noiser than cutting
1/4" plywood :-).

 - les

-- 
Les Bartel			lester@naomi.b23b.ingr.com
Dazix, An Intergraph Company	uunet!ingr!b23b!naomi!lester
Huntsville, AL			(205) 730-8537

There are three kinds of people in the world:
Those who can count, and those who can't.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: daved@convex.com (David Dorfman)
Subject: Re: Need Plywood Source 3/16-1/4"
Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:52:13 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

In <2938@contex.contex.com> frank@marvin.contex.com (Frank Perdicaro) writes:

>In article <1992Sep9.125909.7055@engage.pko.dec.com> muldoon@books.enet.dec.com (Steve Muldoon - Correspondent-at-large) writes:
>>
>>In article <65528@cup.portal.com>, JEFF-G@cup.portal.com (Jeff - Griffin) writes...
>>>Can anyone recommend a source for multi_ply 3/16 or 1/4" plywood?
>>> 
>>>Hardwood on both sides is preferred but hardwood on one side w/Poplar on the
>>>other is acceptable.
>>> 
>>>I'd like these in 4x4' panels (though 2x4' would suffice).
>>> 
>>>Sources in MA, RI, CT preferred but Mail_order houses would be considered.
>>> 
>>>Thanks,   Jeff Griffin
>>
>>         A quick look at the Boston Yellow Pages (1989) yields
>>      15 entries under "Plywood and Veneers". Boulter Plywood

I can vouch for Boulter Plywood, they have excellent quality and a lot
cheaper then somerville lumber.


>>      in Somerville, MA is a retail dealer specializing in
>>      plywood -(617) 666-1340.
>>
>There is a place in Woburn called Atlantic Plywood.  I have dealt with
>them, and they seem ok.  They will have what you want.  They only sell
>to the trade; this can be a problem.   617 933 3830

>Summerville Lumber can be pretty good with plywood if you can find the
>right guy.  Try to go in on a weekday morning.

>F
>i
>l
>l
>e
>r
>F
>i
>l
>l
>e
>r
>F
>i
>l
>l
>e
>r
>F
>i
>l
>l
>e
>r
>-- 
>	 Frank E Perdicaro, Systems Admin, etc.		Xyvision Color Systems
>      Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.		101 Edgewater Drive
>   inhouse: frank@marvin, x5572				Wakefield MA
>outhouse: frank@contex.com, 617-245-4100x5572		018801285
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 11 Sep 1992 19:59:20 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      Selecting Drill Press

I just purchased the Delta 161/2' drill press primarily because I wanted
as many speeds as possible.  Larger bits and circle cutters should be
run at slow speeds.  Also, the benchtop Sears model I had for several
years worked well but besides having few speeds and none slow enough it
also severely limited the size of wood I could bore into.  Roger Barry
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: luoni@jasper.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni)
Subject: Re: Hutch building suggestions requested
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 21:40:56 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <14SEP92.21758284.0026.MUSIC@NMUMUS> FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET> writes:
>My personal opinion is if I am going to make a piece of furniture then I
>want to use the same wood throughout.  The finished product is beautiful
>inside and out.  Practically I do not worry much about expansion and
>contraction when the same wood is used.  To me using less expensive wood
>inside a chest or other furniture item lessens its attractiveness and
>seems to be more like factory made stuff.  Just my opinion.  Roger Barry
I generally agree with this, but if I am using cherry or mahogany
,which are fairly soft "hardwoods", I will use hard maple for the 
drawer slides and other friction wear pieces for long life.  Factory
stuff has many more comprimises made than just two kinds of wood.
Factory stuff often uses bad, but quick, joinery and cheap laminates
and particle board.
From: Flatline@qube.OCUnix.On.Ca (Flatline)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: My name is Tim, and I am a molding nerd...
Date: 5 Sep 92 20:39:02 GMT
Organization: The QuBE BBS

I'd like to be a molding nerd but I can't find Real Molding planes. Has 
anyone ever made a pair of molding or raised panel planes?

-- Via DLG Pro v0.992
From: fkilpatr@afit.af.mil (Freeman A. Kilpatrick)
Subject: Re: Trading Cards ? was (Addresses...)
Organization: Air Force Institute of Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:11:53 GMT

howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel) writes:

>What trading cards?  I have not been in Sears if a while can
>some one shed some light on this for me.

You have to be one of the very *special* exclusive members of the
craftsman tool club.  They have the very tough entrance requirements
that say you must have bought some craftsman tool at some time in the
past (probably with a credit card).

Sorry you had to find out this way.... :)
-- 
Alex Kilpatrick  fkilpatr@afit.af.mil  
"Where the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1 1/2 tons." 
---Popular Mechanics, March 1949