HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: big alternators - tiny belt
Date: 12 Nov 92 15:23:31 GMT
Organization: The Cellar BBS and public access system

andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:

> In article <921109.110252.amiller@almaden.ibm.com> amiller@almaden.ibm.com (A
> >blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed) writes:
> >
> >Right now I limit myself to 100w/150w H4s in my main headlights and
> >130w in my fog lamps.  When I add Rallye-2000 cornering lights with
> >130w  bulbs my voltmeter starts reading below 12V.  By the way, there
> >are 100w/170w H4 bulbs and 160w H1/H3 bulbs available - you'll need
> >10g direct wiring with relays unless you want to burn up your dashboard.
> >
> >Alex
> >amiller@almaden.ibm.com
> 
> Does anybody else feel that for on the road use that 100w is a bit
> obnoxious?  Yes, its true that if you get good lenses and are careful
> about aiming, the light will mostly be low and not glare too much, but
> there are such things as hills, dips and etc.
> 

In a word, No.  For example, I dont know where you live, but I live in South 
NJ, out in farming country.  After 5 pm or so, most of the time, *I* am the 
only car on some of these back roads.  Deer, Fog, Debris are all bad things 
to hit while trucking along at 60Mph.  The *further* I can see, the better.  
I have my lights all wired up "properly".  High beams turn on the driving 
lights, low beams turn on fog lights.  All of the lights are aimed so as to 
give me the best possible lighting pattern without pissing other drivers off 
(Ie- low beams).  If my high beams are on, then that must mean, that there re 
no other drivers to piss off, therefore, I can have as many damn lights as I 
wish... Who am I going to piss off?  A tree?  A Deer?  I'd be a weenie if I 
drove on the highway with my high beams.. but I don't..

--
Dan Reed AKA Blu Max - blu@cellar.org - AnalCADGeek! - Industrial Music Maker
    68' Cougar XR-7, 89' VW Golf, 74' Honda CL360t, Vextrex Unit Lover
Legal for off-road use only, which may never be used on a highway....
From: roden@neutron.eng.ohio-state.edu (Christoph A Roden)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: changing wheel bearings
Date: 5 Nov 92 17:02:53 GMT
Article-I.D.: ee.1992Nov5.170253.16602
Distribution: na
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept of Electrical Engineering

I just replaced my front wheel bearings on an 81 Scirocco
You can rent the $200 tool from Recycled VWs in MI (313) 373-2300 for
$20. They mail it to you (by UPS takes a day or two if your within 500
miles)  and you can use it for 2 weeks and then you
have to mail it back.  They also have new Wheel bearings for about
$23.  The procedure itself isn't too bad; the tool comes with
instuctions.  The hardest part for me was getting the inner bearing
race off of the spindel it is pressed on to.  I was able to
eventually get it off using some WD-40 and a hammer and a punch.  A
2-arm  puller with small fingers would work also.  If you have any more
questions let me know.

Goodluck

Chris
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: randy@rdr.com (Randy Tidd)
Subject: Slightly used rear floor mats FREE
Reply-To: randy@rdr.com (Randy Tidd)
Organization: RDR, Inc.
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 21:48:40 GMT


Well my GTI was broken into while at the dealership (!).  They stole  
my Ricarro seats and the floor mats.  They tried to get my BBS wheels  
& Pirellis, but I had those handy-dandy wheel locks.  I guess they do  
work!

Anyhow, my insurance company sprung for a new set of floor mats, and  
it turns out that the thieves only stole the front ones -- so now I  
have 2 sets of the rear floor mats.  If anyone wants the old rear  
mats (they're in like-new condition, maybe they need a vacuuming or  
something), let me know, I'll give them to you for price of shipping  
(or you can come pick them up if you're near Falls Church, VA).

These are the VW GTI 16v floor mats from the dealer, value $105.00  
(yes that's right, one hundred and five) for the whole set, so I'd  
guess the rear mats are worth like $20 at least.


Randy
randy@rdr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu (Doug Rorem)
Subject: Re: Wiper problems on 86 Golf GTi.
Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 01:19:23 GMT

>I am wondering if it is possible to replace one of the spindles on the
>windshield wiper mechanism of an 86 Golf.  Only one wiper is screwed up
>and the spindle needs to be replaced. I would rather not have to replace
>the entire unit but I guess it can be done.   Just in case I am not coming

Are you sure the spindle is stripped?  The spindle on older VW's (i.e.
Rabbits) was steel, the wiper arm was aluminum.  What happened to mine was
the grooves in the wiper arm kind of sheared off and were left in the
steel grooves of the spindle.  I used a pin to clean out the aluminum
from the spindle and put the wiper arms back on tight (with lockwashers).
It seemed to do the trick.

In general, you have to be extra careful with these in the winter though and
make sure the blades aren't frozen to the windshield before turning them
on.  Otherwise they strip (like you mentioned).

Doug Rorem
University of Illinois at Chicago
rorem@bert.eecs.uic.edu
From: mgb5528@cc.utah.edu (Beck, Michael Gregory)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Lead Additive
Date: 5 Nov 92 16:21:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: cc.5NOV199209210261
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.4-b1


   Now that the government has taken out the lead of the gas in all of the 
nation's gas It leaves us early ('67 bug) air-cooled VW's out in the cold.  I 
was wondering about the lead substitute that is out on the market right now.  
How good is it for my engine?  If I don't put it in, what am I doing to my 
engine?  What was the purpose for the lead anyways? 

Thanks for the answers
Michael Beck
Michael.Beck@m.cc.utah.edu  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu (Joshua C. LaGrange)
Subject: I need knowledge of the fuel line system ('63 Bug)
Summary: I need to know a few things about the fuel delivery system on a 63 Bug
Organization: Union College, Schenectady, NY
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:24:14 GMT

I have a fuel leak from the hoses and apparatus under the fuel tank in my '63.  There is a small steel cylinder with connections, I believe, to the aux. tank, the main tank, and a line back to the fuel pump.  What is the name of this piece?  Where can I get one?  It also seems like the hose from the main-tank is attached in the following manner:  hose over nipple, hole in nipple, a pin thru the hose and through the nipple.  Is that the original setup?  What is?  What should I do to eliminate this leak?  It




 really is quite large.  I would appreciate any help as soon as possible, as I'm somewhat-concerned about safety.  For now I think that I'm just going to wrap duct-tape around the general area and hope that that helps.  Pleas email as soon as possible.  -Josh

-- 
Josh LaGrange                  *                    
Email: lagrangj@unvax.union.edu*                                               Phone: (518) 370-6908          *
My views may not represent the *
views of the Union College     * 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: Rear fog light installation?
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 21:03:23 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.155404.14824@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com>, mental@cntrol.enet.dec.com (ken mental) writes:
>
>
>	Has anyone installed a rear running (fog) light on an A2 Golf? I'd 
>	like to put one on my GTI, but have a couple questions/reservations.
>
>	I'd like to avoid drilling any additional holes. Is there any way 
>	to run the wire inside and not have to drill a hole? 
>
>	Also, does the taillight circuit have enough capacity left to handle an extra
>	couple amps (I think the lights are sold with 20W bulbs). Or will
>	I need to relay it With a relay, I'd have to run another wire all the way 
>	from the battery. Ugly.  
>
>	
>						Thanks
>						/ken 
>
>
>
>--
>
> 				       \  /
>Ken Mental			      \	\/ /		Volk swa gen
>mental@cntrol.enet.dec.com	       \/\/		Slow keg van

I have one installed on my 86 GTI. First, if you have a VW Golf Fog Light
Switch (as opposed to a Rabbit FLS), the switch has two positions...
1 - Rear Fog On....2 - Front & Rear Fogs on...

I'm not sure of the terminals, but you can figure it out with a
test lamp. The wire can be snaked down the carpet at the side
of the footwell on the driver's side, and then under the
plastic sill cover --- then behind the rear quarterpanel
trim piece, around the wheel well trim and out thru the trunk...
I don't remember if there is a place to snake the wire outside,
but you should be able to drill a hole, put some paint on the
bare metal, insert a rubber gromet and then slide the wire thru
the gromet.

The fog light can be mounted under the rear bumper on the driver's
side to the right (as you are facing the back) of the exhaust. Dont
put it close to the exhaust as your lense will get roached.

Also, the European tail lights have a position available for a
rear fog light. I believe it is where the "reflector" area is
either in the middle of the lense or next to the back up light. I'm not
sure if its worth getting a Euro tail light assy. though.

Ric Golen
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: yen@stsci.edu (Felix Yen)
Subject: Cracked VDO Odometer Gear Specification?
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 19:48:15 GMT

I fixed the cracked odometer gear in my '81 Rabbit by repairing the gear.
The repaired gear works, but not without making a snapping noise once
every mile.  So I would like to replace it with a new gear as described
in the FAQ (thanks Jan):

>    Other hint: Another approach I used on my '79 Rabbit was to go to a
>    hobby shop and find a small pinion gear for those electric race cars.
>    It had the right number of teeth, and same ID, but was slightly wider
>    and had an Allen set screw.  I filed off the outer edges to clear the
>    other worm gears and mounted it on the shaft with the set screw.
>    Looked weird, but worked OK.  The gear will cost about $3 and you
>    need the fine Allen key wrench.

It would be nice if I could buy the gear before I take my dashboard apart
for the zillionth time (my speedometer cable used to squeak).  However,
I neglected to measure the gear when I had it out of the car.  Can anyone
tell me what its relevant dimensions are?


Felix
yen@stsci.edu
(410) 338 4853
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
Subject: Re: gti headlight
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 02:39:42 GMT

	Since we are on the subject of headlights, what kinds of upgrades are
available for stock headlights? I saw H1 and H4 lights being sold with pretty
high wattages (80/100 and 90/130W) from J.C.Whitney (Autotech has them too
but they are about $10 more expensive). I think these are bolt on headlights
so are easy to install. The stock headlights really stink (35/55W?) and
I am wondering what the options for an upgrade are.

	Can someone please give us a roundoff of options, difficulty to install and
legality of aftermarket headlights? Thanks!

Christos.
From: alau@unixg.ubc.ca (Alaric Lik Lau)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: ***   neuspeed   ***
Date: 5 Nov 92 08:29:51 GMT
Organization: The University of British Columbia
NNTP-Posting-Host: unixg.ubc.ca



                   Hi-Performance Neuspeed Parts 

They give our beloved VW's even better performance!! Springs, sway bars,
stress bars, short shifters, performance chips, cams, etc. all specially
designed for each and every VW applicaion.

All Neuspeed parts are carried at competitive prices.
If interesed, send me an email with the model and year of your VW!
Both Canadian and US customers are welcome!

Alaric 
alau@unixg.ubc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca (Rob Silcher)
Subject: Re: Changing Front Wheel Bearing
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 14:48:24 GMT

Thanks to all who emailed me with procedures, tips and suggestions for 
changing the front wheel bearings on my Rabbit.

This was one of most successful first-time jobs I've had in a long time. If
you have the right advise/tips the difference between a long job and short one
can be immense.

I posted earlier that I would like to use the special tool that allows you to
remove the bearing without removing the spindle from the car. I didn't have
access to one so I attempted the job without it.

Special tools needed - I only had to buy one tool to do this job. It is called
a bearing race installer (or something like that). It is a small kit that has
6 different sized discs ranging from ~ 1" to 3.4 ". The discs have a hole in
the middle where a small piece of solid pipe about 4" long inserts. The cost
of the tool was $30 Cdn. As it turns out you could do the job without this tool
if you have the right sized heavy washers but this tool was really handy and 
made the job much easier. Another tool I had that makes the job easier but
isn't mandatory is a 2 legged puller.  I had one for removing the steering
ball joint from the spindle. It is not absolutely necessary but as with the
race installer it makes the job much easier.

My overall approach to this job was to remove the spindle with strut-attached
from the car. This saves your alignment. I feel that removing the entire 
assembly is a good approach because you are able to work in a comfortable area
instead of within the wheel well of your car. 

To remove the spindle with strut takes about 30-45 min. This includes trying
to remove rusty cotter pins from the steering ball joints. After the assembly
was removed I was able to remove my first bearing from the wheel housing in
less than 1 hr. The second time only took about 15 min. Installing the bearings
was even simpler. The basics of the job are: hammer out the wheel hub, smash
out the inner race from the wheel housing, remove 2 circlips, smash out outer
race from wheel housing, remove inner race still stuck to wheel hub (puller
used here), install bearing into wheel housing, install circlips, hammer hub
onto wheel housing. It's really much easier than I thought. If you have the
right advise (which I did from the people on the net) it is no problem.

If anyone wants a detailed procedure including problem areas I will be more
than willing to email or post. Just let me know. Again thanks for everyone
who helped out - I wouldn't have had the confidence to do it without your help.

BTW the front end feels 100% better after installing the new bearings.

Rob Silcher dp54@mc4adm.UWaterloo.ca
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: ECU problems?
Date: 6 Nov 92 20:14:09 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


Larry, I had the exact same problem that you describe.  One item that
you didn't mention that i experienced was, the car actually driving
itself in first gear.  The engine actually pulled the car without me
stepping on the gas pedal.

Anyway, replacing the Motronic Control Unit (MCU) in my car back in
February of this year completely solved the problem.  BTW, there is
a recall on this item.  I received a notice in the mail about 2 1/2
months ago. This "Recall" (Campaign RY) did not indicate which model or
year VW, it just stated "your car".

Call VWOA and ask about Recall Campaign "RY".  Again, the new MCU
absolutly solved the problems that i was having: engine reving (sometimes
as high as 2500-3000 rpm), pulsating type of engine revving while at
traffic light, and the engine pulling of the car in 1st gear (without
help from my foot on the pedal).

                                                   .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              
        Fahrvergnugen forever!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: eldred@rrunner.jpl.nasa.gov (Dan Eldred)
Subject: Re: 77 Bus won't idle
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:56:41 GMT

In article <1992Nov12.172926.5170@daffy.cs.wisc.edu> stephens@cat53.cs.wisc.edu (Philip Stephenson) writes:
> Hello all,
> I am the new owner of a 77 poptop.  It drives fine, but refuses to idle,
> either warm or cold.  I have done a minor tuneup (plugs, points, condensor),
> the cap & rotor look good, and as far as I can tell, the coil and plug wires
> seem ok.  When I try to adjust the idle speed by turning the air bypass 
> screw, there is no change in the idle speed.  Please respond by email or
> post if this would be of interest to others.  I am sorry if this is a FAQ,
> I am reasonably new to this newsgroup.
> Thanks in advance.
> Phil

Sounds to me like a big vacuum leak somewhere.  It may be obvious, like an
unplugged hose, or more subtle, like a leak in the brake booster circuit.
Just keep plugging lines until you find the problem (if that's the problem).

	- Dan
From: HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Good Mechanic Recommendation
Date: 10 Nov 1992 13:27:54 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu


The recent posting looking for a good dealer made me think, so in
the hopes of being helpful.........


I've found a good mechanic for German cars, I have a 84 Scirocco,
and wanted to pass the word along.  I've taken my car there for a
couple of years. The owner knows his stuff. I'm not affliated with
the business in anyway just a pleased customer.  I'm hoping this
will just post to my area, apologies if it doesn't.

Anyway, the place is

Eurotech
37350 Cedar Blvd. Suite L
Newark, CA 94560

(510) 794-6582
fax (510) 794-9210
From: pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Lead Additive
Date: 9 Nov 92 14:39:57 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <BxGBu1.4KD@ucunix.san.uc.edu>, dillongm@ucunix.san.uc.edu (Johnny Monocrome) writes:
> In article <1992Nov6.124825.24801@ncsu.edu> david@eos.ncsu.edu (JOSEPH WAYNE DAVID) writes:
>>
>>Michael,
>>
>>Your '67 VW bug has hardened steel valve seats and will tolerate
>>unleaded gas well. You might need to use the 89 or 92 octane to 
> 
> What about  '65 Bug?  Does it have the hardened valve?
> 
> Guy Dillon
> dillongm@ucunix.san.uc.edu
> 
> 

Has your engine been rebuilt, at least the top end?  Then the rebuilder
probably used new valve guides and hardened valve seats.  The general
understanding is that any head made on or after 1966 or so has hardened valve
seats.

There's one for the FAQ.  This one is more FA than any other I can think of.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
|        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
|           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
|                Louisville, KY               |                               |
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
From: pzl@remulak.unx.dec.com (Pete Lega)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: re: ECU woes
Date: 5 Nov 92 22:14:33 GMT
Article-I.D.: nntpd.1992Nov5.221433.24120
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3


	My 91 jetta (not GLI), had the crappy hunting around
	idle, not holding an idle on cold start. The dealer
	would tweak the mixture and then it would be fine
	for a month, and then crap out. After 3 interations,
	they replaced the OXS sensor and ECU and the problem
	hasn't recurred.

	Another unsolved recurring problem is a spedometer
	that shakes through 30 Mph. The cable gets replaced,
	and then its fine for 3 months, then the problem
	recurs.. any hints?

	
--
From: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: broken seat
Date: 10 Nov 1992 02:12:11 GMT
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu

I just suffered the breakage of the frame of my driver's side seat, both
sides, at shoulder level. I have the unit apart, and there is obviously
a mammoth stress concentration at this point, suggesting that others have
had and fixed this problem. The car is a German '85 jetta, 4dr base model
with sunroof (slight seat variation). Interestingly, even the non-sporting
seat is made by Recaro according to the label inside. From my experience,
including sitting in the seat, that name means little.

Is there any good way to go on this? Unless there has been an upgrade,
I'm afraid a used seat could have propagating cracks.

Thanks.

-TC
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: European spec Corrado VR6
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1992 14:40:33 GMT

aas7@po.CWRU.Edu (Andrew A. Spencer) writes:
> ah..i see..well..at least they used SOMETHING sort of modular like..this
> makes sense to me...i mean..why should they cast (forge???) 5 different
> pistons, just because they need five different sizes of motors?..they could
> use the same valves, pistons, etc..ah well. i suppose they all think that
> they have their own reasons for whatever they all do..thanx!

The VR6 is really the first of VW's second generation of water-cooled
engines.  For sharing common components, here are the all-time VW/Audi
engine families --- doesn't it look like they can share an occasional
component here and there?

    Horizontally opposed air-cooled engines (Type I/III)
	B4 8-valve	  1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.5, 1.6
    
    Horizontally opposed air-cooled engines (Type IV)
	B4 8-valve	  1.7, 1.8, 2.0

    Inline and V water-cooled engines
	L4 8-valve 	  1.0, 1.1, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 2.0
	L4 16-valve	  1.8, 2.0
	L4 diesel	  1.5, 1.6, 1.9
	L4 turbodiesel	  1.6
	L4 ecodiesel	  1.9
	L4 8-valve G	  1.3 G40, 1.8 G60
	L4 16-valve G	  1.8 G60

	L5 10-valve	  2.0, 2.2, 2.3
	L5 20-valve	  2.3
	L5 10-valve turbo 2.2, 2.3
	L5 20-valve turbo 2.2, 2.3
	L5 diesel	  2.2, 2.3, 2.5

	L6 diesel	  2.5			(not sure about this one...)

	V6 12-valve	  2.8

	V8 32-valve	  3.6, 4.0

    Horizontally opposed water-cooled engines
	WB4 8-valve	  2.0
    
    VR6 water-cooled engines
	VR6 12-valve	  2.8
    
You could also add in assorted pre-VW SEAT and Skoda engines, I suppose, and
then there are the Toyota engines in the Taro pickups, and who knows what's
being made in Brazil and Mexico...

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
From: drparul@vulcan.ksu.ksu.edu (TRANSCEND  G O D)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: parts needed
Date: 8 Nov 1992 16:59:09 -0600
Organization: Kansas State University
NNTP-Posting-Host: vulcan.ksu.ksu.edu
Keywords: windshield, front grill, hood for vw 82 rabbit with gti engine

 I AM LOOKING FOR VW RABBIT PARTS FOR MY 82 GAS POWRED FUEL INJECTION GTI 
 ENGINE....1.  WINDSHIELD
           2. HOOD
           3. FRONT GRILL
     
 MY CAR HAS OLIVE GREE METALIC COLORS ......BUT ANY COLOURED PARTS ARE WELECOME 
 PLEASE GIVE YOUR QUOTATION 



SHRINATH J KOTDAWALA