HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: While on the subject of cordless drills
Date: 29 Jul 92 16:41:55 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

In article <Jul.27.22.29.30.1992.19670@pilot.njin.net> 
	ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
[original poster attribute lost in the shuffle]
>> This contradicts everything I'd learned about rechargeable batteries -
>> one charges them when necessary, and in fact it is "a good practice to
>> fully discharge the battery pack" (or is this just hear-say?).
>
>It's a common thought.  It's also wrong.  It stems from
>misinterpretation of the "memory effect" that NASA found.  In
>actuality, memory effect is rare in most consumer electronics.  What
>can destroy a nicad battery is running it dry.  You run the risk of
>reversing one of the cells.

This is interesting.  I have a pair of heated insoles that have a
rechargeable battery pack.  The instructions explicitly call for
turning the heat up all the way and letting them sit (thus
exhausting the battery) before recharging.  Said instructions claim
that not doing so results in the batteries going "dead" sooner.

I would have presumed that these instructions were the result of
experimentation or something, yet seems to contradict what you say
above.

Dave
--
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
The heart and the mind on a parallel course, never the two shall meet.
						-E. Saliers
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: acuff@sumex-aim.stanford.edu (Richard Acuff)
Subject: Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?
Organization: Stanford University
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 18:27:50 GMT

I find that the locking shaft of most Panasonic cordless drills in
combination with the standard keyless chuck works very well.  Only one hand
is needed to change bits (ie. you don't have to remove your holding hand from
the grip), and I find I get a lot more leverage than trying to use the motor
on my friend's Makita.

	-- Rich

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rhoover@watson.ibm.com (Roger Hoover)
Subject: Re: Leveling a Jointer Table
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 18:24:31 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center
Keywords: Jointer, Sears, Level

In article <daniel.25@osefs1.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com>, daniel@osefs1.ssd.lmsc.lockheed.com (Daniel Sedergren) writes:
|> I did remove the table and clean and relube the slide mechanisims as they 
|> were pretty gummed up.

Ah yes, I see the dilemma.  The careful reader of rec.woodworking will
think back upon the discussion of waxes and other lubricants that can
be applied to cast iron surfaces.  The important point to remember from
these posts is that one should avoid using lubricants with silicone, as
they will rub off onto the wood and interfere with finishing.


|> Anyone who has solved this problem before, or who has a suggestion is 
|> welcome and encouraged to respond.  My wife will appreciate it, as it's her 
|> chest that I want to build.
|> 

Traditionally, there have been two techniques used to build up the chest
of a female.  The first involves the indroduction of silicone, but may
cause the problems mentioned above.  The second uses saline implants.  I
suspect that these may cause the cast iron to rust.  Note that both methods
are somewhat dubious and have been banned by the FDA.  I suggest that you
convince your wife to be happy with the chest she has and use your jointer
for something productive (like making sawdust).

:-)
roger
From: FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET (FABY000)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Benches
Date: 29 Jul 92 11:35:07 GMT
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU

I built the bench described in Woodsmith magazine. It was
published about 3-4 years ago.  I made the bench 6 feet long
using maple.  I did not add the drawers and cabinet but
left it open.  I purchased the two vices they recommended.
Having used the bench for two years I really like it and
would not change anything.  I built the bench for a lefty
since that is my disposition.It took me several weekends
to complete.  If you use oak it may be worth considering
purchasing a ready made maple top.  Several mail order
firms have them.  They are costly but it will save you a
lot of effort getting a even top. Roger Barry
From: myjak@titan.ksc.nasa.gov (Michael D. Myjak)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Woodworking watchwords
Date: 22 Jul 92 15:11:38 GMT
Organization: NASA, Kennedy Space Center

>      "Measure it with a micrometer, cut it with a chainsaw, fit it
>       with a sledgehammer"
> 
> The original was more poignant. Anyone remember it???
> 
-- 

Yes.. its the definition of Government work:

1) Measured with a Micormeter
2) Marked with Chalk
3) Cut with an Ax
4) Beat to Fit
5) Paint to Match


- Michael D. Myjak			
  Senior Technical Specialist, Systems Analyst
  McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Company - KSC
  MYJAK@TITAN.KSC.NASA.GOV

Fea'ture N.  Distinction; Characteristic; Perculiarity (!)
             A bug with documentation.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: guy@slustl.slu.edu (Guy Smith)
Subject: Re: Rewiring tools for 220V
Organization: Saint Louis University  Saint Louis, MO
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 14:27:13 GMT

In article <1992Jul20.232433.6689@u.washington.edu> whit@milton.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:

Thanks for all the response. I know how 220V works but I obviously have my
terminology wrong (for the record I've done major rewiring of my basement
and kitchen, with inspection). Others have made the point quite well though
that 220V is a somewhat different animal than 110V.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 23 Jul 1992 13:19:23 EDT
From:         Doug Cutler <UNCDWC@UNCVM1.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Keyless Chuck: yea or nay?

   Yes, like you I was very vary of them but when my old cordless had a
gearbox failure I got a Ryobi 12v which came with a keyless.  I find it
holds fine, what suprised me was how "fine" the action is, you have to
spin the ring many times to open/close it a little so that I usually use
the drill motor, no normally a feasible dodge with a keyed chuck.


  Doug. Cutler                       Office of Information Technology,
  VM Systems Programmer              University of North Carolina.
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: While on the subject of cordless drills
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:10:55 GMT

In article <HOLLEN.92Jul28081557@peg.megatek.UUCP>, hollen@megatek.UUCP (Dion Hollenbeck) writes:
> Maybe there are different types of batteries/chargers combinations.  I
> took my trusty 3/8" Makita to the service center because it would not
> work and was told that I had destroyed the battery by leaving it
> plugged in all the time.

Indeed there are.  For example, a Panasonic spokescritter was quoted in
WOOD magazine as saying that NiCad technology had improved to the point
where there's no longer any need to full discharge batteries before
recharging them.  (In fact, I'd read that one should never fully discharge
NiCads, even old ones, since some of the individual cells in the battery
may flip polarity if you do that.)  The instructions with my Panasonic
drill warn against leaving a battery on charge for more than ~48 hours,
but say nothing about when to recharge.
From: sbrooks@ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Susan Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: wood finishes for baby furniture
Summary: Baby Furniture
Date: 21 Jul 92 17:14:28 GMT
Organization: NCR Engineering and Manufacturing Atlanta -- Atlanta, GA

My husband was going to re-finish a Jenny Lind crib given to us by my sister. 
Before we got into the project, we checked at various home stores - Lowe's,
West, Home Depot, etc. - and all carried at least one type of "baby-safe"
finishes and stains.  We never did get to the crib because we found out the
spacing of the slats was too far off from safety standards (it was an old
crib) and just didn't want to take the chance on it being unsafe.
From: rjc@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (robert.cook)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Compressors & Air Tool opinions?
Date: 21 Jul 92 12:58:39 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbfsb.1992Jul21.125839.3400
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

I received some mail suggesting that I post my inquirey here.  Hope that's ok &
not asking for a HUDGE rehash.

I'm buying a 5HP/80 GAL compressor & tools.  I'm seriously looking at Sanborne
and Campbell units.  Prices are relatively that same.  PSI at 175, single phase,
etc, etc....

		Sanborne			Campbell

Price		$950				$850 > $950
CFM		22				18.8
Warrenty	2 yrs			 	1 yr, maybe 2. being checked
Cylinder	Alum. Sleeved			All Cast Iron
Wireing		pre-wired			maybe pre-wired
starter		magnetic starter		think it has magnetic starter
Made		Don't know			USA

I'm currently voteing for the Campbell due to the cast iron cylinders and the
American made, even though the 18.8 isn't as high as the Sanbore 22 CFM.

Tools - I'm leaning toward Chicago Pneumatic.  Top of their line.

Any experience or knowledge of these units or brands?  Seems most people are
fairly happy and have good service from most anything they have, outside of 
cheap tools.

Other opinions appreciated.

TNKS - Robert


---------------------------------M Y  L I F E  --------------------------------

Robert J. Cook - Field Engineer 		AT&T Technical Support Center
749 So. Robb Way				8300 E. Maplewood Ave, 200N
Lakewood, CO 80226				Englewood, CO 80111

Home: 303/980-5182				(800)548-8861 X6089
Work: 303/488-6089				(303)488-6089
FAX : 303/969-0355	    			(303)488-6015 - FAX
rjc@cbnewsf.att.com	< E-Mail Address >	att!att.com!cbnewsf!rjc
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: Re: More on 3-phase power
Date: 27 Jul 92 16:34:32 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Summary: What's a TRIAC?

In article <Jul.24.14.16.48.1992.27570@pilot.njin.net>, ron@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:
> > If you turn off the converter when the current is crossing zero, then
> > there should not be a significant transient introduced into the supply
> > side.  A proper SCR or TRIAC controller would do that automatically.
> 
> Proper or not, a SCR or TRIAC can't shut off excpet at zero.

OK, what's a SCR and a TRIAC?  What do the acronyms stand for, and 
what electrical behavior do they exhibit? (I'm trying to get an 
understanding of why one of these is benficial.)  Also, how are
they wired into the 3-phase circuit?  Are they rated, like most
other components, to handle 220V?

These sound interesting, but I'm getting conflicting feedback.  Some
responders have said a rotary converter won't cause *any* problems
on the input side of the line, but this thread implies there *will* be
potential problems. WHat's the real story?


Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Original_To:  BITNET%"woodwork@ipfwvm"
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 23 Jul 1992 07:17:00 CDT
From:         JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET
Subject:      wiring riddle

Today's riddle:

Since there has been some discussion on electrical wiring here, and I've been
unable to find a conference specifically related to wiring, I'm hoping somebody
can help with the following question.  After purchasing a house, I found the
four-way switch in my kitchen doesn't work properly.  Following is a diagram of
the various switch positions, and the results:

        two-way      four-way     two-way
        switch 1     switch 2     switch 3
         -----        -----        -----
         |   |        |   |        |   |
         |   |        |   |        |   |         Kitchen Light
         -----        -----        -----         -------------

          On           On           On                Off
          Off          On           On                Off
          On           Off          On                Off
          On           On           Off               Off
          Off          Off          On                On   *
          On           Off          Off               On   *
          Off          On           Off               Off
          Off          Off          Off               Off

The two-way switches work with the four-way switch in the "off" position, but
not with the four-way switch in the "on" position.  I suspect the four-way
switch is simply broken, but was wondering if a wiring problem might exist
instead.  Does anyone know how I can determine what the problem is?  Thanks
for the earlier replies on rust prevention and lattice cutting.  This will
probably exceed my quota for questions...

Joe Meyer
From: millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios)
Subject: Re: A Grizzly Tale, or Some Assembly Reqd
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 18:45:23 GMT

Well, I hate pompous people, and I figured Gary (Preckshot)
could use some support.

I hope your fingers heal, Gary.

Bill

------------------
                                   July 22, 1992
                                   William L. Millios
                                   84 Bay Avenue
                                   Atlantic Highlands, NJ  07716

                                   In Ref to: Complaint by Mr. Preckshot

Mr. Grizzly
AKA Mr. S. Balolia
Grizzly Imports
P. O. Box 2069
Bellingham, WA 98227

Dear Mr. Balolia

I recently read the letter from Mr. Preckshot to you, and your reply.

First, this is the 1990's, and the days of greasy-haired high
school students huddling in back rooms over a hodge-podge of
messily assembled electronics known as a computer is no more.
Computers are becoming accepted in a wide variety of applications.
I would be very much in shock if your company did not use 
computers in some way, shape, or form.

Therefore, I object to your snide tone when you refer to Mr.
Preckshot's "computer buddies".  First of all, I have never met
Mr. Preckshot personally.  I only know of him through the computer
network, which, as he states, reaches far and wide.  I converse
regularly with people (whom
I have never met) that reside and/or work not only in the 
States, but in foreign countries as well.

Second, while the tone of Mr. Preckshot's letter may not have
been the subservient "Please help me Great One" that you may
have been accustomed to receiving, your reply to him
made one big mistake.  You forgot that he was a customer.

Where I work, the customer always comes first.  No matter
what he/she says, wants, desires, or dreams of, it is our duty
to please this person.  If we cannot personally provide that which
they seek, we should at least leave them feeling positive about
their association with us.  One upset customer talks an awful
lot more, and has a correspondingly greater influence, than
one happy customer.  Therefore, it is in the best interest of
the company to avoid any dissatisfied customers.

Third, I am one of those people who will soon be in the market
for large woodworking machinery in the next few years.  I had
heard a variety of things about your company and your products
(granted, I must admit that most of what I heard was positive);
however, your flippant behavior towards a customer who spent
a large amount of money at your establishment has totally
alienated me from your company.  I will now seriously hesitate
before purchasing any Grizzly products in the future - I
may know that your products are good, but I also want to be
treated as a valued customer.

I would recommend that you do some reading on how to satisfy
customers.  Your attitude (as portrayed to Mr. Preckshot) may
have been appropriate for a foreman on a construction site,
but was most definitely not appropriate for this situation.

Sincerely,
William L. Millios
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: pal@coonawarra.att.com (p.a.layman)
Subject: A Grizzly Survey
Reply-To: p.a.layman@att.com
Organization: VLSI Technology Development Lab, AT&T Bell Labs
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 11:47:29 GMT

I am curious.  How many people out there that read rec.working
have decided to buy or not buy Grizzly products as a result
of discussions here?  Send your vote to me (p.a.layman@att.com)
and I will summarize back to the net and Mr. Balolia.
-- 

Paul A. Layman (p.a.layman@att.att.com)

From: king@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Phil King)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1992 19:20:43 GMT
Subject: Re: Home Brew Dust Collector
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Walt-

Something I have seen, but have not had a chance to try, is using a
furnace filter to remove the dust.  It won't work as well as the fancy
dust collector bags but would probably match a pillow case.  I have
heard of people spraying the furnace filters with PAM cooking oil to
increase the pick-up of dust - they plug quickly then, but are cheap
to replace.

Let us know how it works after you get it running.

Phil      king@lvld.hp.com
From: kassover@rumsey.crd.ge.com (David Kassover)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Instructions?
Date: 28 Jul 92 20:20:13 GMT
Organization: GE Corporate R&D Center

In article <1992Jul28.112925.20970@IDA.ORG> rlw@IDA.ORG (Richard Wexelblat) writes:
>I was at Colonial Williamsburg yesterday, in the newly-expanded
>Rockefeller Folk Art Museum.  There was an amusing "Hipponocerous"
>sculpture, part Hippo, part Rhino, carged out of a walnut log by a folk
>artist whose name, blush, I don't remember.  A guided tour came through
>and the guide waxed poetic about the sculpture.  Then a kid asked:
>Kid:	-How did he know how to make it?
>Guide:	-What do you mean?
>K:	-Where did he get the instructions?
>G:	-He didn't have any instructions.
>K:	-Then how did he know what to do?
>
>(Etc. for a few more rounds.)

But, doesn't *everybody* know the instructions for this kind of
thing?

Get yourself a block of wood, and carve away everything that
doesn't look like an effalump, or rhino, or whatever...




-- 
David Kassover             "Proper technique helps protect you against
uupsi!khazad!kassover	          sharp weapons and dull judges."
kassover@aule-tek.com                   F. Collins
kassover@ra.crd.ge.com
From: mparker@adobe.com (Mike Parker)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      wiring riddle
Date: 24 Jul 92 00:16:18 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View

In article <WOODWORK%92072307214979@IPFWVM.BITNET> JM01@SWTEXAS.BITNET writes:

>        two-way      four-way     two-way
>        switch 1     switch 2     switch 3
>         -----        -----        -----
>         |   |        A   B        |   |
>         |   |        C   D        |   |         Kitchen Light
>         -----        -----        -----         -------------
>
>          On           On           On                Off
>          Off          On           On                Off
>          On           Off          On                Off
>          On           On           Off               Off
>          Off          Off          On                On   *
>          On           Off          Off               On   *
>          Off          On           Off               Off
>          Off          Off          Off               Off
>

Switch 2 is installed wrong.
Here is switch 2 in the "cross" position, you can see that the light is off
and switching either 1 or 3 will turn it on.

______________  ___________  __________  ____________
              \            \/           /
               \___________/\__________/
                        
Here Switch 2 is in a correct "straight" position and this time the light
is on but switching either 1 or 3 will turn it off.

______________  _______________________  ____________
              \                         /
               \_______________________/
                         
And here is what you have, with switch 2 wired like this you just won't
ever get juice from left to right, lights out!

______________  ___________   _________  ____________
              \            | |          /
               \___________| |_________/
                         
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mmf@evolving.com (Mark Frazier)
Subject: Re: Handcutting Dovetails
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 14:13:13 GMT
Distribution: world, na, usa
Organization: Evolving Systems, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

tip@lead.aichem.arizona.edu (Tom Perigrin) writes:
: >>> Question about handcutting dovetails....
: >> Do you have a bandsaw or a tablesaw?
: > Whats your point?
: 
: The point is that I have a relatively quick and easy way to make such dovetails
: with either table saws or bandsaws doing most of the work for you...   you end
: up doing the clean up and fitting by hand,  but most of the hard work is down 
: by Reddi Kilowatt.    I described it here a year or so ago, and several other
: people commented that they did it the same way,  or had read articals
: from professional woodworkers teaching them how to do it that way.

Depends on your definition of "hard work". I used this technique to make the
drawers for my stereo cabinet. Six drawers, 8 1/2" tall. I think I put
8 tails in the joint. The first day, I spent 10 hours BENT OVER the 
table saw making the initial cuts. My back was extremely sore. It took another
20 hours to clean up with a chisel. They came out very good, but it still
took a lot of time to clean em up perfect with the chisels. Granted, this
is much easier than doing everything by hand, but it's not as easy as the
articles I've read (FWW on joinery) make it sound.

After that project, I bought a 24" Leigh jig.

MMF
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: removing laminate
Reply-To: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 92 15:15:16 GMT

In article <1992Jul26.175812.28031@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com> jsr@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com (Joe Riel 3752) writes:
>A related question.  How is the "crease" put into a formica top to
>make the lip at the edge of a countertop?  Can this be done at home?

Formica is a brand of plastic laminate. Like all plastics, it gets soft
if you heat it up. The rounded, raised lip of a typical "drip-proof"
countertop is made by milling the contour into pressed wood board, then
applying the plastic under heat and pressure. I don't see how you could
do this at home.

On the other hand, there are other plastic or vinyl laminates which are
flexible. Home Depot sells several. You might look into these.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |        Murphy's Laws of Combat
                    | . Professional soldiers are predictable, but the
George Patterson -  |    world is full of amateurs.
                    | . The easy way is always mined.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlloyd@cbnewse.cb.att.com (michael.lloyd)
Subject: tapping in aluminum chassis
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 18:52:03 GMT
Keywords: tap broke! removal?


Sorry if you see this twice; postnews was acting strange.

I am building a chassis for an amplifier project from aluminum.
During tapping the holes in the side panels, I broke a tap off
inside a hole. I assume that a screw remover can be used to extract
these things. However, the tap is made of high carbon steel, which
you can translate as I don't think I have anything strong enough
to drill a hole into the tap to insert the screw remover.

So, what would you do? I have a dremel with assorted attachments,
a hand drill, and access to a drill press. Is a screw remover the
best way to get the tap out? Oh, by the way, I'd like to keep the 
hole intact, if possible!

Please send email (if you can) instead of posting so we don't clutter 
the network. I'll summarize and post the results if there is any interest.

Thanx!
Michael Lloyd


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking