HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Those Stubborn stains
Keywords: Carboy cleaners, Nitric acid
Date: 18 Nov 92 18:19:03 GMT
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame

In article <Bxx8n0.9E9@wrs.com> miked@wrs.com (Mike Deliman) writes:
>In article <1992Nov17.173608.29363@advtech.uswest.com> mgooley@advtech.uswest.com (Mark. Gooley) writes:
>>If you're using nitric acid to remove carboy stains, be sure not to add
>>organic solvents to it: nitric is a powerful oxidizer and some such
>>blends have been used as rocket fuels, if memory serves.
>
>I'd reccomend against using *strong* nitric. It's commonly used to make
>things which go "boom". Rocket fuels? Well... someone on rec.pyrotechnics
>(aka "rec.bombmaking")  says "Use a remote controlled device to dump
>
>Strong nitric will nitrate organics, creating such things as
>nitrocelulose, etc. Most nitrated organics will deflagrate without much
>encouragment. Some will just plain detonate.
>
>Just my $.02, what it's worth. Milage may vary.

In order to make exposives such as nitroglyclerine or nitrocellulose a
mixture of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid is needed, the majority
sulphuric.  This is because nitric cannot attack most organics itself
and must attack a group already sulphonated??.  

A mixture of nitric acid and ethanol is excellent for removing srubborn stains
from glassware.  However, I continue to recomment against the use of nitric 
acid with brewing because it is an oxidiser that will chew up your fingers,
and shouldn't be necessary.

(anarchy lesson for today - manufacture of nitroglycerine.  Mix 70/30 sulphuric
nitric conc.  Fill bathtub with ice.  Put acid in beaker in bath with 
thermometer.  Drip glycerine in and stir well after each addition.  Note 
temp.  Continue dripping and stirring, but never exceed 10C.  Nitroglycerine
will form as a yellow oil on top.  NG is extremely unstable so avoid any 
temperature changes or shock.  However for reliable detonation a detonator
should be used).

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: khill@decserv1.eecs.wsu.edu (Keith Hill)
Subject: Moss Bay
Organization: Washington State University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 19:19:45 GMT


I was wondering if anyone knows the possible ingrediants that Moss Bay
uses for the beers.  I am trying to immitate it not duplicate.  I love 
there brews and have one every night!! Any help would be MOST appreciated
I would prefer mail. Due to the KAOS around here now. 
Thanks in advance.

Mr Hill

Only one reason for school is to learn the art of brewing and comsuming alcohol.

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: elwin@hubcap.clemson.edu (lawrence brown)
Subject: Emulating Dragon Stout?
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 15:41:21 GMT

I'm a rank beginner and I want to take a stab at something at
least vaguely like Dragon Stout (my wife's favorite brew).  Does
anyone have any suggestions (pointers to Cat's Meow recipes for
instance).  Is it a standard sweet stout?  I seem to taste
molasses in it; would that make it an old ale?  In case I'm
feeling really studly, could someone also recommend a good
liquid yeast strain for this project (I've only used dry yeast
so far).  Thanks in advance.

Larry
elwin@gamma.phys.clemson.edu
From: pozar@kumr.lns.com (Tim Pozar)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Water in San Francisco
Date: 15 Nov 92 23:14:05 GMT
Distribution: ba
Organization: Late Night Software (San Francisco)

In article <1992Nov12.182118.28153@netcom.com> jwsb@netcom.com (Justin Broughton) writes:
>I just read Dave Miller's book the complete handbook of home brewing.
>He seems to be very big on water quality, so my obvious question is,
>has anyone got the relevant details for San Francisco water and how 
>one would go about treating it?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Justin Broughton
>Configurex Inc. Oyster Point Blvd, South San Francisco, California

Anchor Brewery seems to love it.  When we took the tour of the plant,
they had high praise of SF water.  SF water come from the Hetchy Hetchy
reservoir, straight out of the snow-pack in the Sierra Mountains. Most of
the other communities around the Bay get their water from local run offs
or the Delta (yuck!).

Kenton Hoover (shibumi@joes.garage.com) and I have brewed several batches 
from SF water (together and separately).  Not counting the bad batches due 
to recipe flubs, the beer comes out damn good.

           Tim

-- 
Internet: pozar@kumr.lns.com               FidoNet:  Tim Pozar @ 1:125/555
UUCP:     ...!uunet!kumr.lns.com!pozar
Snail:    Tim Pozar / KKSF / 77 Maiden Lane / San Francisco CA 94108 / USA
Voice:    +1 415 788 2022
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: peterm@dtc.hp.com (Sweet Pete)
Subject: Re: Spoiled malt extract???
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 21:22:40 GMT
Organization: Where No Man Has Gone Before

Who is updating the FAQ?  This question would seem to be a good candidate to
include.
-- 
Peter C. Maxwell,                      ARPA:   peterm@dtc.hp.com
Hewlett-Packard Company,
5301 Stevens Creek Blvd, MS 53U/36,    UUCP:   ..!hplabs!hpdtlpm!peterm
Santa Clara, CA 95052-8059             (408) 553 2512
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: culliton@ceres.srg (Tom Culliton x2278)
Subject: Where to get siphon hose?
Organization: SRG, Arinc Research Corp., Annapolis, MD
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 19:14:02 GMT
Summary: questions about plastic tubing


The subject may be misleading, my questions are a bit more complicated
than just where to find clear plastic tubing.  Around here I've seen
tubing at hardware stores, boating supply stores, pet stores, farm
supply stores, mail order, etc.  Usually it's PVC, sometimes its
unlabeled, one of the mail order places had polyethylene, ...  So the
questions are more along the lines of:

1) Is PVC tubing OK?  What about polyethylene?  Others?

2) What about for high temprature use? (like siphoning hot liquids)

3) How can you tell if the tubing is food grade?  The sales droids I've
encountered are uniformly useless on this point.  Usually I sniff it to
see if any volatiles can be smelled, but this is obviously not a
definitive test.

4) The immersed outlet end of the PVC tubing I was using for a blow off
hose turned milky.  What is this from?  (There was a small amount of
bleach in the water to kill grubbies, but just barely enough to smell,
less than in some tap water I've encountered.)  The water?  The bleach?
Something in the blow off?

5) Can anybody recommend a reliable source of good, safe tubing?
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dbreiden@dsuvax.dsu.edu (Danny Breidenbach)
Subject: Re: Brewing With Friends
Organization: Dakota State University, Madison, SD
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 19:42:43 GMT

In article <1992Nov20.184734.1796@llyene.jpl.nasa.gov> julie@eddie.jpl.nasa.gov (Julie Kangas) writes:

>Sigh, I guess all articles need to have smileys posted every other
>line.  This was a weak attempt at humor folks, no need to take it
>seriously.  Heck, I invented it when I wrote the post.  It's not
>how I live my live as some people have thought.  HUMOR -- OK?

This reminds me of something annoyin about the newsgroup forum.  See, 
any fool can shoot of his or her mouth and offend or downright piss off
any number of people, and then when called to task for his or her post,
this fool can claim "I was just kidding, sheez why do you people get so
damned defensive ..." thus making the offended and/or pissed off parties
look like minor idiots while the true fool looks like a Witty Person.

I'm not condemning Julie by any means.  But maybe putting at least one
smilie would help.  Also, anyone who travels even a little bit is probably
sensitive to the issue of boorish clods bringing far too much carry-on 
baggage onto a lane as though it was his/her RIGHT to make other people's
lives uncomfortable for a while.  I.e., you hit a nerve, Julie.

I should say, though, that I agree that asking if it's OK often causes
more trouble than just doing it.  But, when there is a clearly stated,
well publicized regulation against it -- don't do it.  With the carry on,
the limits are clearly stated.  With the home-brew situation, the limits
are a bit fuzzy.

To the person who originally asked about the homebrew situation -- I would
put forth that you do not have a problem.  If you were doing something like
working with a person who gave the "lowest bid" (asked for the least home-
brew) or selling or whatever ---- you would likely be in deep water.  But
what you are doing is not significantly different from the time honored
tradition of brew partners splitting the cost and splitting the result.
YOu are splitting in a non-50/50 way and thus, the shares of the beer are
different.  Heck ---- if you're really concerend, call the BATF and/or 
a lawyer.  That's certainly safer then the armchair advice contained in
this forum.  (No offence to anyone :)

--Danny
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu (The Baker)
Subject: Hazey Cider
Organization: Purdue University Computing Center
Distribution: all
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 05:14:53 GMT

 I am currently looking at two mugs of my latest batch of cider.  One is cold
and the other room temp.  The room temp one is clear, the cold one is hazey.  
This confuses me somewhat, as this is also the first one of the batch to become
hazey when chilled.  There are no differences in taste or smell that I notice.
Any Ideas?

******************************************************************************* All animals are strictly dry, they sinless live and swiftly die.
But sinful, Ginful, beer soaked man survives three score years and ten
                                                -origin unknown-
*******************************************************************************
Edwin Sharp
esharp@sage.cc.purdue.edu
From: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Brewing With Friends
Date: 15 Nov 92 17:11:57 GMT
Reply-To: reb@Ingres.COM (Phydeaux)
Organization: E 4th St Home For The Overeducated Underemployed - Chicago Div.

In article <1992Nov13.053333.6501@nmt.edu> jking@nmt.edu ('Admiral JC') writes:
>    OUr Homebrew club was talking this evening and the following question 
>came up:
>
>    Given the current set of US Homebrew laws, a friend of mine came over
>to my house (which I rent) and together we brewed a batch of beer (My hardware
>his software (malt, hops, dextrose, etc.)).  Everything is done at my house and
>when said beer is finished he takes home most of it (I keep a six or so for 
>the trouble).
>
>    Is this legal or does it run afoul of some regulation?

Who cares, about the law. The main problem is that  you just gave away
a  great-tasting, lip-smacking  batch   of homebrew!   You  should  be
ashamed of yourself.

But don't worry,  go over to your friend's house and have a homebrew!

							reb
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Custom caps?
Date: 16 Nov 92 23:03:20 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Nov16.230320.16573
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL


Okay.  I got the information on coasters from American Coaster
(thanks, JS) - for general info, a 4", 3 color coaster on heavy stock
will run roughly 20 cents each for a minimum 2000 order.


The new question:  Has anyone got names of suppliers who do custom
bottle caps?  Is it reasonable to order 2 or 3 thousand, or is it something
I'd have to buy in quantities of a cubic gross?
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Subject: Re: Interesting idea for removing oxygen from bottles.
Reply-To: pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 13:02:41 GMT

In article <01050166.j0ebj3@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us> joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us writes:
>
>In article <1992Nov18.011219.11500@news.columbia.edu> (rec.crafts.brewing), pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Pierre Jelenc) writes:
>) ... The yeast will anyway consume the oxygen
>) that is present in the bottle.
>
>I don't think this is true.  The oxygen will not necessarily diffuse
>into the brew during the yeast's respiratory phase, nor will there
>necessarily be enough yeast to respire the oxygen before it can react
>with the beer.

The concept of a "respiratory phase" is an oversimplification. Yeasts
will prefer to use oxygen if it is there; even under conditions that
favor the Pasteur effect, there is still some respiration and anyway
there is little fermentable sugar during conditioning. If you were to 
bubble air through the beer, you would overwhelm the yeast, but under
normal conditions I think you are safe.


>
>)                                 In fact, I recently tried to oxidize
>) some brew: I filled one bottle only halfway, and shook it well to
>) aerate the beer. I let condition for 3 weeks, and did a blind test.
>) Neither my wife nor I could detect any difference in either taste or
>) aroma.
>
>Maybe you just got lucky.  Was this a light- to medium-bodied light-
>colored beer?  Oxidation doesn't always make these taste awful.  On
>the other hand, a dark beer ....  The easiest way to oxidize beer,
>anyway, is to add unboiled tap water at bottling time.  The undesirability
>of the resulting brew a few weeks later may surprise you.  Kind of
>like a combination of tinfoil and cardboard in your mouth, with dry
>astringent sherry overtones.  Yumm!

It was a simple brown ale. Actually there was another experiment, but
since it was a Trappiste, it's not surprising there was no noticeable
difference!

Pierre




Pierre Jelenc                        pcj1@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu 
                                    Columbia University, New York
From: mrmike@michelotti.ae.ge.com ("Mr. Mike" Passaretti)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Yeasties Life Cycle
Date: 20 Nov 92 19:00:51 GMT
Reply-To: Mike Passaretti <passaretti@crd.ge.com>
Organization: GE Aircraft Engines


Last week I had planned to brew, so I pitched 2 bottles worth
of slurry from the new SN Celebration and awaited its
awakening.  Well, it took too long, and I had a visitor last
weekend.  I'm going to be tied up this weekend.  Should I
leave it out, 'fridge it, pitch it, or toss it?  I'm leaning
towards "leave it out" and pitch again this weekend some time
into two more wine bottles hoping for brewing Wed or Thurs....
I'm one of those who was taught to pitch after it's fermented
out.  It's for a pale ale....

                                                        - MM
P.S.  It _did_ reproduce well.  I've got about 1/2" of slurry
      in the bottom of my wine bottle, which is more than I've
      ever had with any Wyeast starter.
-- 
passaretti@crd.ge.com           {whatever}!crdgw1!copernicus!passaret
mrmike@michelotti.ae.ge.com     {whatever}!crdgw1!copernicus!michelotti!mrmike
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: ulick@bernini.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Re: Spoiled malt extract???
Organization: OUC, University of Notre Dame
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 19:38:34 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.181315.23562@cbnewsm.cb.att.com> bench@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (daniel.benscher) writes:
>I have a can of M&F Dark Malt Extract (3 lbs) that has been in my
>closet for a year or so.  I just noticed it has a slight bulge at
>one end (like when a can of tomato sauce spoils).  Does this mean
>the stuff is spoiled?  (I have no idea if the bulge was always there
>or not.)  I'd hate to end up with botulism!

No, no.  Not this again.  Are we about to have botulism revisited so soon
after the last episode?  I believe the final result of that hashing and 
rehashing was that malt extract (or indeed, tomatoes) are too acid for
botulism, but if you're concerned spend $10 on another can.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 
+ 'There was a  master come unto the earth, + Ulick Stafford, PP-ASEL       +
+    born in the holy land of Indiana,      + Dept of Chemical Engineering, +
+ in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.+ Notre Dame, IN 46556          +
+      B'fhearr liom bheith ag eitilt.      +    ulick@bach.helios.nd.edu   +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: slndw@cc.usu.edu (Mark Taratoot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Cider.
Date: 18 Nov 92 14:56:41 MDT
Organization: Utah State University

Greetings.

I have started my first batch of cider and would like some comments.
So far I have used basic steps.
First I put 5 gallons of fresh pressed local cider in a sanitized
glass carboy.  I added metabisulfate and waited a day.  I added
Williams dry Ale yeast (mail order from california) and some yeast
nutrient.  A week later things were finaly beginning to come out
of lag, and I added Red Star Epernay II to the must.   Now it has
a nice layer of yeasty froth on top.  I am planning on racking
to a secondary in a couple of weeks.  Here is where I need comments:

I am considering adding honey and perhaps acid blend when I rack to
make a cyser.  Is this a bad idea??  Since I am now using wine yeast,
I thought it might be wise to boost the sugar a bit so they can
go off the way they like to.  On the other hand, since this will 
be my first cider and the orchard will be pressing all winter and
into spring so I can make MORE, I thought I should just let this 
one go with only cider.  Of course, I already sulfited and pitched,
so I have already altered it a bit.

Comments would be appreciated!

-toot
-- 

  Mark Taratoot                   * I BRU.
  DoD3323                         * DU U?
  SLNDW@cc.usu.edu              
  Watershed Science                     
  Utah State University
From: ritz@ritz.mordor.com (Christopher Mauritz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Quality of malt extract
Date: 22 Nov 92 15:36:55 GMT
Organization: Ritz International, Inc. - Import/Export Consultants
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

I remember sometime ago a university (in Canada?) did a study on
malt extracts from many different sources to check for the addition
of refined sugar.  Apparently, so many of the brands were
"contaminated" with added sugar that the school refused to publish
the brand names.

Could anyone here "in the know" provide more details?  I don't have
the facilities yet to do my own mashing and I'd like to avoid those
brands which add sugar to the "broth".

Regards,

Chris
--
Christopher Mauritz                 | It's conventional in the extreme. I
ritz@ritz.mordor.com                | guess I've seen too much, because I
{backbone}!rutgers!spcvxb!ritz!ritz | don't actually find her provacative
                                    | either.   -Bowie on Madonna-   
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: spgo@is.morgan.com (Stefan Goellner)
Subject: Great East Coast Beer Expo & Festival...
Organization: Morgan Stanley - IS
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 22:45:30 GMT


Is happening December 11th & 12th at the Washington Sheraton in DC, Fri 12-5,
and Sat 7:30 am - 11 pm. Number for info is 703-222-8486. I called, and this is
what I got: There will be... 
Several microbreweries
Homebrew suppliers
Beer Stein and T-shirt vendors
Homebrewing Demonstration
Supplier of some new decoction system
Presentation on/of Jacksons Belgian beer book
Papazian roaming around/signing his new book
A banquet on Sat from 6-8 with Papazian

I'm planning on being there. If anyone wants to meet drop me a line.

--
Stef            aka  spgo@is.morgan.com   DoD#0190 
'82 KZ550 (Commuter) '84 750 Interceptor (Toy) '86 Alfa GTV6 (Money drain)
                Warning: I brake for radar traps. 
        Disclaimer? I don't need no steenkin' disclaimer!


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc)
Subject: Re: Blackstrap Stout
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 17:49:35 GMT
Organization: Don't ask me, I'm Lost!

steve@caticsuf.csufresno.edu (Steve Mitchell) writes:
> I'd like any opinions on the following stout recipe.
> The style is intended to be something of a sweet stout.
> I'm calling it Blackstrap Stout:
> 
> 	7.4 lbs.   Dark malt extract syrup
> 	1 lb.      Black Patent malt
> 	1 lb.      Chocolate malt
> 	1/2 lb.    Crystal malt
>         1/2 lb.    Flaked barley
> 	1/2 cup    Blackstrap molasses
> 	3 ounces   Cascade hops (bittering)
> 	1 ounce    Fuggles hops (finish)
>  	           Edme dry yeast
> 
> 	3 ounces   Blackstrap molasses to prime

Well, since there's no roasted barley in it, I'd call it a Porter instead of
a Stout... also, 1 whole pound of Black Patent may be a bit much.  But,
it still sounds quite drinkable!  Let us know how it turns out!

Rick
From: jdecarlo@mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Help with causes of astringency
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:27:39 GMT
Organization: MITRE Corporation, McLean  VA

In article <1992Nov20.144935.19211@brtph560.bnr.ca>
 bcronk@bnr.ca (Bryan Cronk) writes:

>Second, I tasted some at bottling time, and from everything I've read,
>this beer has a definate astringency to it.  According to Miller, this 
>is probably caused by:
>
>1) Letting Hops sit too long in hot wort.  Well, I did let my finishing
>hops sit in the boiler for about 10 minutes after I took it off the heat,
>but Miller himself recommends 15 minutes, so I'm not sure that had anything
>to do with it.
>
>2) High PH in sparge water.  On the recommendation of my brew shop, I have 
>been using Lactic acid (17%) to adjust my sparge water.  I thought that if
>anything, my sparge PH was too LOW.  Those darn PH papers are not really
>precise, but I thought that I may have put too much lactic acid in.  Is
>this also a possible cause of astringency?
>
>Finally, compared to the Whitbred and Vierka yeasts I have used in the past,
>the EDME didn't seem to clear as well in the secondary, but I went ahead
>and bottled anyway since I was under time constraints.  Could yeast in
>suspension give the same type of taste characteristics as astringency?

Well, there is always a problem with verbal descriptions of flavors.  I'm 
certainly no expert, but have found people with various interpretations of 
astringency.

I believe two other things may possibly have contributed:

1) Infection.  Is this yeast from the same batch you used before?  Anything 
else change in the process?

2) Oxidation.  Any chance the beer oxidized during any racking operations 
after fermentation began?

Plus, as someone already mentioned, you may just be getting a lot of 
bitterness from the hops.  I have noticed an astringent type of bitterness 
from overly dry-hopped beers.


John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet:  1:109/131  Internet:  jdecarlo@mitre.org
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist)
Subject: Re: Those Stubborn stains
Keywords: Carboy cleaners, Nitric acid
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 15:12:47 GMT


Okay, clue me in.  If the unidentified stain is highly toxic, then
making it invisible may not remove it's geno-mutative side effects,
and you'll still have extra fingers to hold your mug with.  If it's not,
why worry?  Relax, and all that...  If normal caustic cleaners won't
affect the stain, will beer?
-- 
Jonathan E. Quist                              INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation
jeq@i88.isc.com  '71 CL450-K4 "Gleep", DoD #094        Naperville, IL
        There are many things a person should experience in a lifetime.
       Among them are an infant's first cry, and an infant's first laugh.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing