HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rear-end Bearings
Keywords: auto, repair
Date: 17 Aug 92 14:06:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

In article <1992Aug17.123124.2315@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> jimo@navaho.UUCP (25656-o'keefe,james j) writes:
>
>I haven't done the job yet.  My auto supplier want $20 for both the
>outer bearing and the seal.  Since I have to open the differential in
>order to remove the axle, I plan to do both axles.  I'm figuring about
>$60 for the job (including bearing puller rental) barring any problems.
>
>I don't plan to replace the inner bearings.  If they are bad, how do I
>get them out?
>
 The inner bearings are probably held in by two cast iron caps (similar to 
main bearing caps) with two bolts per. The GM diffs I have had open use a
two-piece tapered roller bearing, with the inner part pressed onto the center
section and the outer held by the bearing caps and spaced by shims from the
side to set the ring-pinion spacing. 

 The outer bearings take most of the vehicle weight load; the inners take 
the torque load mainly and are reasonably well lubricated. If you change
out the inner bearings you may have to do a shimming session to get the
ring and pinion back to optimum geometry. With the axles out and the drive-
shaft off or the vehicle in neutral check for any play (side or rocking)
or lash. None that you can feel is acceptable. I don't know the numbers 
offhand and don't have the shop manuals handy. If you do decide to go
whole-hog then pick up a front seal, a set of pinion bearings and a fresh
crush sleeve too, as well as a shim assortment. Most adjustments require a
torque wrench that reads in inch-pounds. A dial indicator might be helpful
too. Many books show the use of Prussian blue to indicate the contact patch
of the gears and how to set it up correctly. No idea where to get it; try
machine shop suppliers I guess. Finally be sure your manual covers the
process in some detail; some Chitlins manuals barely acknowledge the rear
end's existence. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: 19 Aug 92 06:36:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: mr.1992Aug19.063606.19913
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

Eddie Kieger (efk00@cd.amdahl.com) wrote:
: 
: Only if you like going <= 45 mph at full throttle up hills...........
: 
: My ma had one & it was the BIGGEST piece of $hit I ever drove.
: 

Ah, so, you are saying, correct me if I'm wrong, that because it doesn't have
gobs of speed that it's a piece of shit?  Or is there something else you
aren't telling us?

Maybe your ma got a lemon...it happens.  Maybe it wasn't taken care of.
How about some details, or do you have nothing positive to add?

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mechanic's favorites
Date: 14 Aug 1992 00:42:50 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.146.12.28

In article <1992Aug13.212200.2819@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>In article <16eep0INN66i@smli.Eng.Sun.COM> lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood) writes:
>>>>>>I'm starting a new survey.
>>>>>>in the sense of:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>   b). Easy repair...
>>>>>>
>>A '57 Chevy with a small block V8.  There is so much room in the
>>engine compartment, you just climb in over the fender, get in there 
>>with the engine, and go to work....except that you hardly ever need to.
>>
>Even easier is the same car with an inline 6. I've owned a '55 Chevy w/ a
>V8 and currently own one with a 6. Piece of cake. You've got all that room
>because if something isn't needed to make the car run, it isn't there! Add
>

I think you got me on that one.  With a 6 and no heater I bet you could
stand on the ground beside the engine on the right side of the engine
compartment if you needed to. 


Regards,

Jim Lockwood - KM6NK
notjim@acidqueen.eng.sun.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ehawrysh@bmers217.bnr.ca (Evan Hawrysh)
Subject: Re: 90 Escort GT engine/special equip.
Organization: bnr
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 17:04:52 GMT

In article <23806@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, beglin@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Gordon Beglin) writes:
|> I'm not too sure you need anything like the above. I have an '85 Ranger
|> that *does* need a VOM or something for the indications, but my '88
|> T'Bird outputs the codes over the "Check Engine" light.
|> 
|> Viola! Nothing more to hook up! Isn't this the way it should be--
|> to be able to check your computer without (except for the jumper)
|> leaving the driver's seat?
|> 
|> Maybe they've changed things on the newer models, but I can't see why
|> they would want to de-invent helpful things like this.
|> 
|> BTW, I've had not trouble at all out of the EEC-IV that I haven't been
|> able to fix. Just my experiences.....
|> 
|> Regards,
|> Gordon Beglin

I've got an '88 5.0 Mustang and have tried to obtain the codes through the
"Check Engine" light, but to no success. I patched the proper wires, but
when I turn the key, nothing. The light isn't burnt out, since it comes on
when starting. I'll have to try it with the VOM. Could there be a fusible 
link along the diag. wires that is blown?

Evan
From: abeaumon@augean.eleceng.adelaide.edu.AU (Andrew Beaumont-Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Turbocharger Rebuild
Summary: Experiences ???
Keywords: Turbocharger
Date: 17 Aug 92 02:34:56 GMT
Organization: Electrical and Electronic Eng., University of Adelaide

Can anyone who has experience with turbocharger rebuilds give me some help.
I am putting a Garrett (AirResearch) T2 unit on a 1600 Fiat motor, i
bought a second hand turbo which appears in good condition except the 
shaft has 25 thou play in it. I have read the book by McInnes (?sp) on
turbocharging (HP books) which says 4 thou is normal for floating bearings.
All other parts (housings, impellers, wastegate, actuator) appear good.
I spoke to a shop who deals in them, this is what he said:
1) Rebuild kits are available (at $200) - includes bearings and seals
   but they are a recent addition and are generally not 100% successful.
2) Buy a new guts - cost $800.
3) Buy a good second hand unit $450. (how good??)
What is wrong with rebuild kits? if the shaft is ok, is it a simple job to
replace bearings and seals?. Is any special equipment required ?
Any special things i should look for when i 
disassemble it? Is $200 reasonable for bearings + seals?
thanks, andrew
From: Peter.Hammond@brunel.ac.uk (Peter D Hammond)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Idle speed won't adjust lower than 1200RPM
Date: 18 Aug 92 13:56:37 GMT
Organization: Brunel University, Uxbridge, UK
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

russell@ncube.com (Russell Randolph) writes:
<Stuff deleted>
: the throttle valve appears to be completely closed.  Here is what I've done
: to try and find the problem:
: 
: - Check mixture via propane enrichment.

: - Use propane around carb to check for leaks -- found none.

: Russell Randolph
: nCUBE, Beaverton, Oregon
: russell@ncube.com

Sorry Russel, I can offer no suggestions. I have a question: what are you 
doing wafting all this propane around your engine? i.e., what is `propane
enrichment' for mixture checking, and how do you look for carb leaks with
propane?
I have been looking for a way to find air leaks for a while. Is this what I
have been looking for?

Thanks,

-- 
BFN, Pete.

 Dept. Materials Technology | Disclaimer: SERC pay me | You sometimes have to  
 Brunel University          | to report my opinions,  |    listen to
 Uxbridge                   | not for theirs or the   | A lot of useless talk.
 Middx, UB8 3PH, UK.        | the university's.       |         N. Peart. (RUSH)
From: lusky@hal.gnu.ai.mit.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Blueprinting - What is it.
Date: 18 Aug 92 04:21:41 GMT
Organization: /etc/organization

In article <1992Aug17.175304.4557@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:
>In article <66032@hydra.gatech.EDU> gt8166a@prism.gatech.EDU (DOERSCHUK,DAVID OAKES) writes:
>[description of blueprinting]
>>1.  Take a die grinder and smooth the interior of the ducts.
>>
>>2.  Put the sheet of blue carbon-paper-like material between
>>    the ducts, and bolt the ducts together.  Then unbolt'em.
>>    From the pattern of blue carbon on the 2 duct faces (i.e.
>>    the exhaust manifold and the head) and also by looking at the
>>    pattern on the blue sheet itself, you can figure out what
>>    parts of the manifold or head need to be ground away to 
>>    make the junction smooth.
>
>then what's porting and polishing?
>is that the same as blueprinting?
>
>-teddy

I always thot the above process was called port matching.  My understanding
of blueprinting was that it was the process of checking all the dimensions
of all engine parts to assure that they are within acceptable specs.
Porting and polishing refers to making changes to the shape and surface finish
in the intake and exhaust ports of the cylnder head(s).
From: wjs@re3sc139h.gmr.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Recurring Problems with '86 Ford Escort
Keywords: Escort
Date: 21 Aug 92 20:05:11 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: None

I have a 1986 Ford Escort Wagon (really it is a '85.5) that has
had recurring problems with tie rods and TFI modules.

The tie rods (the WHOLE rod, not the end) have had to be replaced
every 25K-30K.  The dealership has always maintained this is normal
for this car.  I find this hard to believe that Ford would design a
part (a crucial part) that failed that often.  

Is there anyone out there that has had or heard of this problem ?

This same car also EATS TFI modules.  I have heard many say that it
is a heat dissipation problem because it is mounted to the distributor
which is bolted to the head.  I can understand this.  However, I do 
not understand how Ford can get away with not recalling a problem
that is so common and on such a widely selling car.  After all, when
these modules quit, there is no "limp-in" mode.  You are just stranded
wherever you might be.

							Thanks in advance for any info

							Walt

							wjs@re3sc139h.gmr.com


From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 16:43:03 GMT
Subject: Re: Brakes Question
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I've found that a medium sized pair of Vice-Grip pliers work very well in 
compressing the piston.  I have a pair with very wide jaws (not the regular
pliers jaws).  They look vaguely like the illustration below:

                        ___    
                 ______/   \_
                 |_____     _<-<-This is supposed to indicate the openning
                       \___/     between the jaws.  

I know that that's a pretty poor excuse for vice-grips but I hope you get the 
idea.  Like the person in the previous note mentioned, be careful not to 
compress the piston too far or you'll ruin the seals.

Good Luck,
       Gary

 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: koch@rtsg.mot.com (Clifton Koch)
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 -> 4.3L V6 swap help
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 16:22:05 GMT

jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:


> There is the Buick V-6 and there's the Chevy V-6. Just to be helpful the two
>divisions produced them in the same displacements. The Chevy is probably what
>you want; while the accessories change from year to year the blocks tend to
>stay fairly identical and hence you stand a better chance of making the swap
>with factory brackets, etc. The Buick version may also bolt fairly well; for
>years the Buick V-6 went into cars which also took the 305 Chevy and also the
>2.5l "Iron Duke" 4. However, if you are planning on performance upgrades I
>believe you'll spend less on the Chevy V-6; many parts are common to it and
>the V-8s. 

  I should have been a bit more specific about the engines.  Both the 2.8L
and 4.3L engines are Chevy.  To recap, I'm most interested in the following
information:

  Relative engine weights (how much heavier is the 4.3L engine).

  What type of motor mounts would I need.

  What type of tranny it'll bolt to.

  Any major obstacles such a swap may hit.

Thanks,
Cliff
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Cliff Koch
    Motorola Cellular Infrastructure Division
.. [uunet | mcdchg | gatech]!motcid!koch
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Aerostar info (tuneups, etc)
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 92 08:08:18 GMT

Codesmiths (dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk) wrote:
: In-Reply-To:  kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com (Kevin Brown)
: 
: > having seen the engine bay layout in [...] cars like the Toyota Supra,
: 
: > The American automakers can do a good job if they want to.
: 
: 
: Americans also start by making the overall car three foot wider ! I'm
: sure that might have something to do with the room available under
: the bonnet  8-)

Yabut, they still lay them out so you can't even SEE the important bits.

I have SAABs going back to 1960, with a good representation of the models/types.  In
EVERY ONE of them, I can get at the plugs easily, oil filters (where there is one),
etc. etc. etc.  On the newest ones (900,9000) all the fluids are readily checable 
from the perimiter of the hood opening, so Mr. Yuppie Scum <TM> doesn't have to get
their Cardan suit dirty.  The US automakers seem to just not care about making the cars 
'user friendly', and this doesn't just apply to the engine bays, either.

The controls & control systems on most American cars that I have driven SUCK.  To have
a HVAC system which you set a temperature on, and that is your only option, is terrible.
The Cadillac has 2 fan speeds, gale force and barely running, and on my parents', anyway,
you set the temperature, and if the coolant is cold, it doesn't know it.  The simple,
rotary controls are the best way to go, as you know where they are set without looking
at them (taking eyes off the road), but most cars have sliders, which give no information
without looking at them.  GM turn signal switches are extremely 'heavy' feeling, which 
might be why all those Caddy drivers never use their signals....too much effort :)

Handling is a whole topic unto iteslf, which I don't want to get into right now.  I guess
some people LIKE floating on marshmellows, but, DAMMIT, I want to feel the road, and,
incidentally, hear the engine.

Just my Sunday Nite Bitch <tm>

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: white@watsci.waterloo.edu (Brad White)
Subject: Re: Color Match - Bullsh*t
Organization: University of Waterloo, Waterloo, Ontario
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 17:21:29 GMT

In article <fagundes.713633188@vincent1.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:
>Hi,
>  I recently tried this color match crap on my 76 Mavery and the front of
>my car now looks like trash!  Appearently this stuff does not work at all
>with somekinds of paint.  
>
>     fagundes@iastate.edu
>        -another idiot who believed tv commercials!

I also bought this on tv, however for me it worked well.  I have a black clearcoat pinat job and some a**hole dragged their x-mas tree across my trunk, I
applied this stuff and the scratches are gone !!!  I wouldnt recommend it
though if the scratches are right through to the metal..  then since it is
only a wax the chance of rust starting is much higher that if you just got
it repainted...
Just my 2 cents..
Brad

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike Suter)
Subject: Re: improved Anti-theft technology
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 20:10:45 GMT

>As for the electronic protection, all those are by definition useless.

Well, I don't know if I would say ALL are useless (especially those
with ignition kill).

>Interesting story on the Infinity Q45. Parking authorities tried to tow one
>of these with parking brake on/in park. They COULD NOT get in for two hours
>(this was in NY where towing guys are pretty adept at getting into cars)

>A crowd gatherd to cheer the car on... At some point, they brought in a
>flatbed towtruck with 10,000 lb winch, and DRAGGED it up onto the truck.

I read that story also, but I thought it was a Lexus? 

Wish I would have been in the crowd--would have been fun :)

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: 76 Dodge Aspen (handling)
Date: 21 Aug 92 10:30:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpcvnb.61050022
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon


   I'm comming to the "net" as to avoid re-inventing the wheel. 

I have an older car - 1976 Dodge Aspen R/T that has seen better days. Not that
it's that bad but I bought it for my mother who let my brother wreck it about 
1980 or so. Its set around in verious stages of running but most of the time
it's just sat. 
   Here's the problem. When new as now the car has a drastic oversteer. 
I'd like to clean it up and set it up for a hillclimber. (don't want ANY over-
steer) Has anyone read or does anyone remember any cures for the beast. 
   I have my own ideas, but a short cut or two would be nice. 

   Ideas:
  wider tires = and about 2 inches wider in the back than in the front. 
  heaver duty rear springs (I don't think I can get heavier torsions for 
the front but I'll check it out) 
  Quickor engineering anti sway bars
  shock upgrade

okay what did I forget? 
Thanks, Mike Nason

michaeln@hp6400.desk.hp.com
From: owens@jonquil.uchicago.edu (Christopher Owens)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Body trim adhesive remover
Date: 14 Aug 92 14:18:01 GMT
Organization: Dept of Computer Science, The Univ of Chicago

Is it posible to remove automobile body trim (in particular, trunk lid
badges) from a modern (i.e. clear-coated) finish without damaging the
finish?  Does anyone know of a solvent or technique to accomplish
this?  I'd appreciate e-mail;  I'll summarize.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill)
Subject: How To Tell If Hot Manifold Air Intake Valve Is Bad?
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio, (USA)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 00:35:24 GMT


   Just curious if there is a way to tell if that little valve on the air
intake hose (83 Ranger 2.3 Liter) that controls the flow of hot air to the
air filter is bad? I just replaced the manifold air preheater because it
didn't have one but I think all the air may still be coming from the normal
(cold) air intake.
-- 
"A large creature about 7 1/2 to 8 foot tall. It was greyish black in color,
and as it went away from me I seen the backside of it walking as a man would
walk on it's hind legs."- Former Sheriff Oliver Potter, Vancouver, Washington
The Cryptozoology Information Network. Want on our Email mailing list? Amiga!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Tire speed ratings ?
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 19:32:28 GMT

In article <5415@naucse.cse.nau.edu> met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt) writes:
>In article <moseley.50.713750852@u.washington.edu> moseley@u.washington.edu (Steve L. Moseley) writes:
>>GT+4 P205/55VR16. Have they stopped putting the "V" on the tire size? What I 
>>as well. Can I assume that the tire I got is actually V rated even though 
>>the  "V" is not in the size designation on the tire?
>
>NO, Do NOT assume this. An 'R' rated tire is the lowest rated tire they
>make and a 'V' rated tire is one of the top. The speed and traction
>rates are DRASTICALLY different. Use of these dis-similar tires on your
>vehicle can and probably will cause a disasterous and possibly fatal
>accident.
>Verify the rating via the Tire Rack AND another Goodyear distributor.

geez, hasn't anybody read the bloody monthly posting around here?

there's so much authoritative misinformation flying around in this
thread that i can barely stand it.

there is a change in tire designation style in progress.  this change
is intended to restore more information about a tire's load capability
to the sidewall of the tire.

in the old, old days (well, the early 70s), tires had designations
like

FR70-14

this meant a radial, with a 70 percent aspect ratio, for a 14 inch
wheel.  the F was the load carrying capacity of the tire; it could
be used to guess at the tire section width, but didn't really carry
that information.

this designation went out of style, and we got metric and p-metric
radials (nearly the same thing.)  that was where

195/60HR14

came from, for example.  in this designation, 195 is the _section_ width
of the tire; 60 percent is the aspect ratio; 14 is the wheel diameter;
R indicates radial construction (NOT SPEED RATING; THE R HAS ABSOLUTELY
NOTHING TO DO WITH SPEED RATING.  GOT THAT!?), and the H is speed rating.
note that this designation, while it incorporates the section width
and the speed rating of the tire, loses the load carrying information.

a couple of years ago, it was decided to restore the load information.
the new designations look like this:

195/60R14  85H

and you guessed it, the speed rating moved to the end, and the 85
is the new, improved load rating for the tire.  it is, of course,
not a meaningful number on its own, but rather an index into a table
(just like oil weights are not really meaningful physical quantities.)

so these tires with the little v at the end of the designation are in
fact V rated tires and there is absolutely nothing to panic about.

you suckers better remember this; there'll be a test next week.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Removal of headrests
Date: 19 Aug 92 18:00:25 GMT
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC

In article <1992Aug19.123806.7046@ac.dal.ca> roneill@ac.dal.ca writes:
>I have always found that a hacksaw blade is a wonderful
>tool for removing headrests.  Just follow the instructions
>
Removal with a hacksaw blade? But what if he wants to use his headrests
later? :-)

 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|