HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ssave@ole.cdac.com (The Devil Reincarnate)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Installing CD players
Date: 15 Sep 92 22:11:10 GMT
Organization: CDAC, WA


  I want to install a CD player(changer) into my car which has a factory 
AM/FM Cassette.  I am quite satisfied with the existing stereo (read: "I
don't have money to spend on changing it" ;-)  )  How can I add on the
CD player with the least amount of hassle?   How can I use the amplifier
in the cassette player with the CD changer/player?  Any ready-made boxes
available?  The player does not have a CD in input. 

 Suggestions from Net.wisdom?

 Shailendra
 ssave@ole.cdac.com
From: moussavi@hplred.HP.COM (Farshid Moussavi)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 21:38:17 GMT
Subject: Results of Jetta door speakers
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car

Greetings netters!

First I wanted to thank everyone for their valuable input regarding
the Golf/Jetta door speakers.  I had Blaupunkt 5.25" mid/bass drivers
in the front doors (ACS 5400), and I wasn't getting enough bass (or
anything for that matter) out of them.  Well, I took my car to 
a good installer (Auto Fidelity Group in Mountain View, CA), and
they solved my problem - They just drilled a large hole in the door panel 
behind the speaker, and fastened the speaker rigidly to the grille where it 
always was, and presto!  The improvement was instant.  So in short, for all you
Golf/Jetta owners, I guess it is sufficient to keep the speaker on the
door's factory grille, but make sure there is a hole behind the speaker
so the speaker has some air to move.  The whole thing cost me only 18 bucks,
and I am very happy now. Thanks again, and happy listening!

Farshid
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Antenna's
Date: 8 Sep 1992 18:02:06 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: kmr4@po.CWRU.Edu (Keith M. Ryan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hello,
	Yesterday, some frat joker cut off the antenna to my girl's 
car, leaving about four inches. She has a four door '78 Cadillac De Ville,
with the 'premium' factory sound system [ no much premium about it 
but the price! ] This has the automatic motorized antenna. However,
much to my admonishment, she left it in the up position. So, she
needs a replacement one.

Here are some of my options:

1)	I have contacted Crutchfield's and they have two complete
	motorized antenna's which they carry, listing for $49.95
	and $75.95. I was told that the fender must be taken off
	to install them. If anyone has done such a job ( I have 
	worked on Mercury Cougar's and Topaz's ) how easy is the
	removal on the Cad? Any Hints or tricks I should be aware of?
	
2) 	Does anyone one know of another mail order place which 
	carries the appropriate antenna kits for less? The price
	I was qouted by the local Cad dealer sent me into sticker
	shock!

2) 	Does anyone offer just a replacement antenna stalk. The
	motorized part works fine. It is just missing the top 2
	feet of the antenna. So, if the stalk unscrews or something,
	can I leave the existing motor, but replace the stalk?
	Crutchfield does not carry any such. ( I called one of the
	Service Personal who I know and trust. He stated that there
	were none to the best of his knowledge. )

3) 	Failing those, I was wonderring if I can use a regular none
	motorized antenna. I know how to install them, etc. However,
	I havn't had a chance to open up the dash; so i do not know
	if the radio accepts a standard motorola plugged antenna. Can
	I do this on a Cad, or do they need a unique antenna? I can
	pick one up locally for around $10. They can be mounted with-
	out removing the fendor. The owners manual does not mention
	what impedance it need to be, and the like. Do Cad's follow
	the norm?

	Any help would be appreciated. I certainly do not want to 
lump down alot of money on an older car. Besides, I am a college stu-
dent, need i say more about finances?
-- 
The views and opinions expressed in the above post do not necessarily reflect 
those of the Management. The propositions contianed in the above are in no way 
intended to reflect the state of affairs, and any coincidence is purely acci-
dental. The Management makes no apologies for any possible reader confusion.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: perfbox
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 17:47:43 GMT



Is PerfBox shareware?  Is it Accurate? Can I get a copy?]


Short and sweet.. eh?

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: miles@ms.uky.edu (Stephen D. Grant)
Subject: Re: MAIL ORDER FOR ALPINE
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 05:49:55 GMT
Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences

erich.lim@cutting.hou.tx.us (Erich Lim)  writes:

>-> Does anyone have any experience with the Alpine 3566 amp?  With its 6
>-> ch mode of 4x30w and 2x60w or 5 ch mode of 4x30w and 1x160w, it seems
>-> like it would be a good choice for a front, rear & sub system.

>  I've never used the 3566, but have used the 3554 (50x4 or 50x2 and 150
>x 1).  I've used it to run 2 Orion 15" XTR's in a sealed box and it runs
>it loud, clean, and accurate.  Never had a problem with Alpines, and
>they have never shut down on me.
>Erich Lim

 I too used a 3554 and was/am very impressed with its performance.
I ran 2 8-ohm Rockford Fosgate 10s on the bridged 150 watt channel, and
a set of MB Quart 218s (6 1/2" woofer and a tweeter (sepperate)) on the
front 2 stereo channels. no extra crossover, very simple, clean, sound was
excellent. i'd like to use 3 of em in my next system. :)
From: cooper@plains.NoDak.edu (Jeff Cooper)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Pinout needed for Ford factory stereo
Date: 16 Sep 92 03:09:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: plains.20388
Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network

A friend of mine has gotten ahold of an older Ford factory
stereo, that he'd like to use, but has no pinouts for, and I'm
hoping someone can help him.  It's a digital display radio with
6 memories, bass, treble, balance and fade controls.  It's your
standard digital radio...

On the back there is a module plug-in that looks something like:
(excuse the ansi graphics)

+---------------+
|(1)		|
|(2) +-----+ (9)|
|(3) |-----| (a)|
|(4) |-----| (b)|
|(5) |-----| (c)|
|(6) |-----| (d)|
|(7) |-----| (e)|
|(8) |-----| (f)|
+----+-----+----+

Now as far as I can determine, the pinouts are:

1) Gnd
2) Right Rear
3) Gnd
4) Right Front
5) Gnd
6) Left Rear
7) Gnd
8) Left Front
9) ???
a) Gnd
b) ???
c) ???
d) ???
e) ???
f) Power Antenna

Now my question is, does anyone know what the rest of the pinouts are
(or even if mine are correct?)  I'd kindaa hate to blow the radio to
pieces by connecting +12v to the wrong connector!  I don't know what
model/make/year the radio came out, other than that it was produced
by Ford.

Any help would be appreciated!
-- 
"Life is pain Highness, anyone	|  Jeff Cooper
who tells you different is	|  cooper@plains.nodak.edu
selling something."		|  NeXTMail: cooper%midkemia@plains.nodak.edu
    - The Dread Pirate Roberts	|  (701) 298-0893
From: al1x+@andrew.cmu.edu (Amit Likhyani)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: For Sale:
Date: 14 Sep 92 03:47:42 GMT
Organization: Senior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

I have one more thing to sell from my old system:

It is a Pyramid PB 300G amp.  It is rated at 75 watts a side into 4 ohms.
It is bridgeable, but not 2 ohm stable.  

I am asking for $60 or best offer.
From: Alan_Boisclair@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Boisclair)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Using a separate battery: Perfect Interface or Bat Isolator
Date: 9 Sep 92 20:40:04 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

Dear Robert,
Battery Isolators, if purchased with sufficient current ratings, are completely
safe for hooking up a second battery to an already existing alternator.
Basically, all it really does is electrically separate the two batteries with
massive diodes and may have voltage sensors to detect whether the battery needs
a charge from the alternator or not.
        Most people that I know who have done this modification insist on a
DEEP CYCLE battery.  This means that is is capable of being very heavily
drained without causing much damage through plate sulfation.  The ordinary car
battery is only meant to give relatively brief high current drains, and
requires recharging relatively soon or permanent damage may result within the
battery.  The DEEP CYCLE batteries are used a lot with mobile homes for their
appliances when the vehicle is parked.
Good Luck...
        By the way, make sure that your alternator has sufficient current
capacity to handle the added load; calculate based on ALL optional equipment of
the vehicle being used AT ONCE, the ADD the current needed by the amplifier(s).
This at least should get you in the ballpark.
From: Alan_Boisclair@mindlink.bc.ca (Alan Boisclair)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Re: -=-=-=-=- Alternator Overload -=-=-=-=-
Date: 9 Sep 92 20:49:19 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

Dear Tim,
Once the maximum current output of a particular alternator is reached, that's
it!! The electrical system can start receiving some awfully harsh voltage
spikes from the maxed-out alternator; it will probably burn out not too long
after being put to this use for any serious length of time.
To get a more powerful alternator is usually not a problem; I've done it twice
already with domestic cars. Do some heavy duty price/quality comparisons; don't
get sucked-in by the PRICEY HYPE!  It shouldn't cost more than $150-$170 with
trade-in of the old alternator.  Super High Current Output alternators are very
pricy and the range can go quickly from the under $200 range to well over $400.
By the way, I have successfully used computer grade capacitors across the
Pos/Neg power cables in the trunk right next to the amplifiers.  My Alphasonic
amps were well-known for blowing their power supply cmos chip because of
turn-on or turn-off spikes; I used reverse diodes and zener diodes on power
lines to both amps and pre-amp equipment.  I also used chokes/inductors to
smooth the spikes by placing these in series with the tape deck/equalizers.

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: jreiser@scott.skidmore.edu (jason reiser)
Subject: Re: Amp problem..
Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY
Distribution: rec.audio.car
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 19:17:47 GMT

mgoodwin@nmsu.edu (Michael E Goodwin) writes:
> 
> 	Whenever I hook up my low-level inputs to the amp from the
> deck, I get very LOUD amounts of feedback. When I use low-level inputs
> from my portable CD player I get no feedback and everything sounds
> fine.
> 	The low-level connections from the deck to the amp work fine,
> but I'm too used to the better quality from the low-levels, and was
> wondering what could be the problem? I've taken the amp apart, and 
> found nothing visually wrong with it.
> 
	You stated that the noise is only present with the RCA cables
plugged into the amp.  By using a portable plugged directly into the
amp, you bypass both the deck and the cables.  Next, plug the portable
cd player into the front end (radio end) of the RCA cables.  If you
get noise, it is radiated noise in the cables... possibly too close to
some power source (ie. amp power cable, fuse box, other power
wires...).  If the noise is not evident, then the problem lies within
the radio or it's installation.  Is it well grounded?  Try moving the
ground... and keep it short.  Find a solid bolt and use a star washer
for a solid connection.  If this doesn't help, check the accessory
wire.  The wire that the factory supplies for accessory power to the
radio is FREQUENTLY a noisy source of power.  Use a SPST relay to
relay this power directly from the battery.  If you need help with how
to do this, drop me some E-Mail.

	I don't think the deck is the problem, because if I touch the 
> positive plug of the RCA cable with my fingers, I still get some
> feedback.

Even so, don't rule it out just yet.

> 	I've even used 3 different sets of RCA cables and all have
> produced the same results.

Try running a well shielded set outside of the vehicle, clear of any
radiated energy sources...  If the noise clears up, reroute the RCA wires
in the car.

> 	Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
> 
> Mike
> 

Best of Luck Mike!


				- Jason

Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: gtb6038@zeus.tamu.edu (BILES, GREG THOMAS)
Subject: Re: ++1-800-SHERWOOD number out there???++
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 05:57:00 GMT

In article <1992Sep4.101841.6754@spxtech.qc.ca>, babineau@spxtech.qc.ca (Andre Babineau) writes...
>Why do you want the phone number of a company which is manufacturing
>real cheap stock!!!
>They are so bad that your local dealer refuses to sell them any longer.
> 
>I'm sorry but I'm absolutely sure that you can find a lot better, sound 
>quality speaking, in other brands.
>The price is not the only thing!!!!
>What you want do primarly is to listen and enjoy music!!!!!
> 
>Andre Babineau,                 Securiplex Technologies Inc.
>babineau@spxtech.qc.ca          Montreal, Quebec   CANADA

Have you ever had a Sherwood amp?  Well, I have two of them.  One runs my
Kicker 15s and Pioneer 6.5" 3-Ways and the other amp runs my RF Punch
5.25" 2-ways and some Pioneer tweeters.  I spent aprox $300 on amps, one was
used.  My system is loud and sounds great.  The 50x2 amp that I bought for $135
three years ago is the one running the tweeters and the RFs.  It is only 4
ohm stable, but I ran my 15s with it at a 2 ohm impedance for about 8 months.
I have never had problems with them whatsoever, unlike SONY!!!!!!

Greg
From: cew6@po.CWRU.Edu (Carlin E. Wiegner)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Wanted to design a Car Stereo...
Date: 7 Sep 1992 18:48:33 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


Hi, I have an '86 BMW 528e and have decided that I would like to
upgrade the current factory sound system to something much better.
I was wondering if people could give me their advice. I am planning
on spending at $2000 over the next 8-12 months...

I want to get a surround sound system. I've seen the ones in some
magazines that have only a graphic equalizer on the display (no
tape or cd) and they also control CD players. How much would one
of these good sorround sound receivers cost? 

Next, what cd changer should I pair it with. I want at least 6 
disc capabilty... What brand, model, and cost?

Speakers: I have 4 speakers and want to upgrade these four and
add 4 more plus some sort of bass device. What brand of speakers,
size, location, and total cost?

Amplifier: I want to increase decibel level some but not a ton?
How many watts and what kind of amp (cost?)
Thanks...
CW
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: tumbush@tigris.eng.ohio-state.edu (Gregory J. Tumbush)
Subject: Passages through firewall and RCA suggestion
Organization: The Ohio State University Dept of Electrical Engineering
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 12:57:54 GMT

Hello all,
  I'm trying to find a way through the fire-wall of my '86 camaro to
run wire without drilling.  Has anyone had any experience doing this.

Also, about the ongoing R.C.A. cable question, why not make your own?
MCM has 100 feet of RG-59U coax cable with an O.D. of .240" for $13.95.
Then you can buy RCA plugs for $.73 for metal and $1.75 for gold.  I
would imagine that these would be better than you could pick up at
Radio Shack, especially with the gold connectors.

Comments?

Thanks in Advance,
Greg


Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: fitchitt@wam.umd.edu ()
Subject: 3 1/2" Drivers for a '81 Datsun 280ZX Dash
Keywords: 280ZX Dash 3.5"
Organization: Workstations at Maryland, University of Maryland, College Park
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 20:35:58 GMT

Hi, wondering if I could get some (more) advice.

I'm the guy with the 280ZX who can't make up his mind about what to do about
replacing the stock drivers (the choices suck)

On thing I DO know I need to just plain replace are the AWEFUL 3.5" 
Crackle and Humm drivers that are in there now. I would love suggestions.

They don't need to handle any bass, I'd probably either cross them over to cut
out the bass under 90 Hz or so, or maybe put a cap to cross them over.

Price IS a factor, more than $50 for the pair is too much. Some really cheap
options I saw were:

Radio Shack "Auto Sound" 3.5" Drivers... $8 each
Sparkomatic ??300 ($20 for the pair)

I know the quality on those is probably not so good, so I'm open to suggestions
They need to be able to handle more than 15 watts.

Thanks for any help!
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: Multi-amp question
Date: 15 Sep 92 11:55:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T


I am just trying to get an idea on how most people choose what
size amplifier they need.

Is there a formula to calculate how much power you would need
for a tweeter, if you have X power to your mid-bass.

For Exapmle:  If I were to get a set of Seperates
(tweeter/woofer) and use a active crossover, and choose to use
50W for the woofer, would I need 50W for the tweeter? or would
30W be enough?

Marc.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: Kevin_Bailey@qmgate.anl.gov (Kevin Bailey)
Subject: Yamaha amps?
Followup-To: rec.audio.car
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory, Argonne, Illinois
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 14:33:00 GMT

Does anyone have experience with Yamaha amps?  Specifically I'm interested
in the YMA-300.  Problems/praise/installation/turn-on thump/overheating
etc.

Thanks for the help,
Kevin

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin_Bailey@qmgate.anl.gov
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: mxl@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (marc.a.levy)
Subject: Alphasonic FA series
Organization: AT&T
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 15:13:40 GMT


Has anyone seen/listen to/purchase any of the new Alphasonic
FA series amplifiers?

I was going to buy a Sound Stream D200, when this amplifier
was reccomended to me.

If anyone has any info on it, please let me know.

Thanks/

Marc.
From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
Subject: How to determine wire size 1,2,4,8 ?
Date: 15 Sep 92 13:13:13 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology


First off, thanks, to all who responded to my questions about, signal
cables.  I finally bought two sets of Pheonix Gold signal cables.
Two 16ft lengths ended up costing $83.00. I looks like i'll end up
spending close to $200.00 for cables and wires alone by the time i'am
done. :(

This question concerns the power wire.  Is there a formula/guideline for
determining the wire size?  I realize that there are factors such as 
amp power output, distance running power lead, but i still don't know what
guage to use.  The biggest problem for me is cost. Prices seem to be
between $1.50 - $7.50 per foot.  I need at least 20ft.  


Here's the situation:
 
I have a 4x40 watt amp.  It uses a 30A built in fuse.  I will be adding at 
least another 100-150 watt amp for a sub. 


Here's the question:

For a run of 20 feet, and amplification of about 350 watts, what is the 
smallest guage power wire that i can use safely? And how is this determined?


BTW, this power wire will be fused at the battery, and will terminate
at a Pheonix Gold fuse/distribution block (MFB22 with BB2).

respond to net or e-mail

thanks,
                                                  .              
                                                 /                
Larry                            __/    ______ /                  
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov       /                \                 
                         _ _ _      __      _____  \------- ===   
            ---------- /  __ /    /  /    /__  __/            \   
         /            /  / ____  /  /       / /                |  
        |            / /___/  / /  /__   __/ /__              /   
        /_____       \______/  /_____ / /______/        --- ////   
             \_____           2 liter 16v       \_______/         
                                                                              

                            lb.'n till it Hz
                        
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car
From: brian@pawnee.eel.ufl.edu (Brian Gentry)
Subject: Re: Need Help with system installation in '91 Talon.
Organization: UF EE Department (student)
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 18:55:20 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.124113.20987@cas.org>, tjd28@cas.org () writes:
|> 
|> Howdy.  I am getting ready to install a competition type system in
|> my '91 Talon and I need some help.  I am thinking of going with either
|> 4 10" or 12" Kicker Subs.  2 6x9's in the factory positions for mid's,
|> 2 5 1/4's in the doors and 2 tweeters in the front window and possibly
|> a center channel.  Driving the woofers will be 2 punch 45 amps.

I guess you want LOTS of bass right?  I would suggest that you use
a more powerfull amplifier than the Punch 45.  As I remember, the 
Punch 45 can only produce about 30 watts/ch into 2 ohms.  The most
it should be able to produce is 45 watts/ch into to ohms.  This would
give you about 90 watts per amp or 180 watts total.  That's only 45 watts
per driver at the best case.  Good 12" drivers may need 100 to 200 watts
to reach their maximum excursion and thus give you the maximum amount of
bass.  I would suggest a US AMPS US-250A.  This amplifier produces in
excess of 200 watts per channel into a 2 ohm load.  There are other 
amplifiers on the market which may also fill your needs.
 
|> I want to go with an isoberic box in the trunk that will look like this...
|> 		   Trunk
|> 		 -------------      w = woofer
|> 		/   w /\ w    \
|> 	       /     /  \      \
|> 	    __/      \  /       \__
|> 	    |       w \/ w        |
|> 	    -----------------------
|> 
|> is this a good idea????

I'm not sure which cross-sectional view of your trunk you have drawn.
It doesn't look like any isobarik setup that I have seen.  In general,
if you want the most SPL, isobarik is not a very good idea.  Isobarik
takes two drivers and makes them act as one driver.  Because the drivers
have a tunnel that couples them together, you lose half the accoustic
power of each woofer.  So the net effect is that two isobarik drivers are
only as loud as one non-isobarik driver.  If you could draw a more clear
picture of what you have in mind for your car, I may be able to offer some
more suggestions.
 
|> I would really appreciate any suggestions on this idea and especially
|> on the amps and woofers.
|> 
|> 
|> Thanks alot,
|> 
|> Trav
|> tjd28@cas.org

			Brian L. Gentry
		   (brian@sioux.eel.ufl.edu)

Disclaimer:  I DO work for US AMPS incorporated.
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car,rec.auto.tech
From: trw@spl1.spl.loral.com (Tim R Witort)
Subject: Re: Car DATs
Keywords: DAT
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 18:10:18 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.131346.22442@athena.mit.edu>, tafrakes@athena.mit.edu (T. Andy Frakes) writes:
|> 
|> Does anyone out there have a DAT in their car?  I thought Ford offered
|> them their premium sound systems (T-bird, perhaps?).  What would be the
|> best portable for car audio?  If anyone installed one themselves, do you
|> have any problems with it?

   I have a Sony DTX-10 (?) DAT deck in my car. It also has a tuner and
is a full fledged CD changer controller. It's a standard DIN installation
and was very easy to install in my '91 Honda Accord. I've had no problems
with it and it sounds wonderful. I bought it from Crutchfield for $400US.

|> T. Andy Frakes (tafrakes@athena.mit.edu)

-- Tim
Newsgroups: rec.audio.car