HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: ruby@raid.dell.com (Ruby Pan-Ratzlaff)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Drought-tolerant lawn grasses (was Zoysia)
Date: 16 Apr 92 19:50:34 GMT
Reply-To: ruby@raid.UUCP (Ruby Pan-Ratzlaff)
Distribution: na
Organization: Dell Computer Co

In article <1992Apr15.202350.3885@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes:
>jcj@tellabs.com (jcj) writes:
>> 	After dealing with the midwestern drought (I know, nowhere
>> near as bad as CA, but anyway...) and overseeding and watering as
>> much as possible and on and on, my lawn still looks terrible, so
>> I've decided to give zoysia a try.  Does anybody have an address of
>> a supplier of zoysia plugs?  Anything I should know about this stuff
>> aside from it going brown at first frost?  Thanks.
>
>You could also try some of the more drought-tolerant strains of fescue
>or bluegrass.  'Olympic Tall' fescue is highly recomended as a good
>performer by a number of sources, and it's pretty drought tolerant.
>'Midnight'  KY bluegrass takes the summer heat pretty well, and 'Monopoly'
>is wear-resistant and tolerant of low fertility.  'Regal' perennial
>ryegrass is also drought tolerant and somewhat resistant to a lot
>of insect pests.
>

Just to throw my 2 cents worth in.  The most drought tolerant grass I
know is a recently developed strain called buffalo grass.  I think it
was developed in Texas.  It may be a little pricey 'cause it's so new.
It looks like bermuda grass, and does not tolerate shade well.  I read
somewhere it's watering cycle is 21 to 45 days at a time (compared to 
Zoysia's 7 to 10 days)!  It can live through temperatures from 30 degrees 
below zero to 120 degrees!  Now, that's one hardy grass!  I don't know
if it's available outside of Texas, though.
-- 
-- 
the electron surfer				Ruby Pan-Ratzlaff
Dell Computer Corp				9505 Arboretum Blvd
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: kevin@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Kevin Harris)
Subject: Re: Bonsai list anywhere anyone?
Reply-To: kevin@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Kevin Harris)
Organization: Columbia University
Distribution: global
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1992 17:43:25 GMT

voyager@irishmvs.cc.nd.edu writes:
|> Is there a list for Bonsai enthusiasts?

I was going to reply to this via e-mail, but it's qualified as a 
Frequently Asked Question.

As far as I know, there isn't a mailing list for those of us who love
little trees. (BTW: if you know of one, please let me know.) There *are*
quite a few rec.gardens readers who either bonsai or collect bonsai. If you'd 
like to talk about your collection and/or your creations, go right ahead,
rec.garderns is a pretty accommodating group. 

OBbonsai:

This coming Saturday night, my wife and I are going out to dinner with a
couple of fellow-displaced-Texans who also are bonsaists. Will let you 
know how the obligatory plant talk goes...

kevin 




Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dealy@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov (Brian Dealy - CSC)
Subject: Discolored azaelia leaves Any Ideas?
Reply-To: dealy@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov (Brian Dealy - CSC)
Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 13:21:50 GMT



-- 
My azaelias (dont know what type) have been getting discolored leaves
for some time now. I live in the mid-atlantic region so Iexpect
them to start greening up big time any day now, but they havent done
as well as I have seen them do elsewhere, and I wonder
 
is it too much sun?
is it a bug of some kind?
not enough food?
wrong soil mix/ph?
something else?

the leaves are hard to describe, the discoloration is like something
is growing on them or else something is changing (chemically)
the texture if the leaves. I havent looked with a magnifying glass or
anything that intelligent yet. 

Any clues, things to watch for? 
advise for doing better? 

Thanks,
Brian
.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: My Son the Squid
Date: 16 Apr 92 18:11:05 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

kevinf@ecs.comm.mot.com (DX531 Kevin Fluharty) writes:
> My question is, "Is there any danger of any nasties leaching out of
> the tire compounds?" [of ooze hose]

I don't have data one way or the other-- this is just gut feeling and
some chemistry -- but MOST of the truly nasty carcinogens/mutagens/
teratogens in petroleum based products are non-polar.  That means they
don't dissolve in water very well.  I'll take my chances.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI  

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams)
Subject: Re: HELP: GRAPES
Originator: dadams@cherry
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 7 Apr 92 10:52:38 CDT


In article <1992Apr7.140324.7292@waikato.ac.nz>, poli2031@waikato.ac.nz writes:
> We have just shifted into a new place and it has got a grape vine full of
> grapes.  What is your advice as we are new to this?
> 
> 

The grapes should be eaten.
From: n5pph307.bnr.ca (Bill Hengeveld)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Discolored azaelia leaves Any Ideas?
Date: 13 Apr 92 18:58:07 GMT
Organization: Northern Telecom Inc.

In article <1992Apr13.132150.22916@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>, dealy@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov (Brian Dealy - CSC) writes:
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> My azaelias (dont know what type) have been getting discolored leaves
> for some time now. I live in the mid-atlantic region so Iexpect
> them to start greening up big time any day now, but they havent done
> as well as I have seen them do elsewhere, and I wonder
>  
> is it too much sun?
> is it a bug of some kind?
> not enough food?
> wrong soil mix/ph?
> something else?
> 
> the leaves are hard to describe, the discoloration is like something
> is growing on them or else something is changing (chemically)
> the texture if the leaves. I havent looked with a magnifying glass or
> anything that intelligent yet. 
> 
> Any clues, things to watch for? 


I had a similar problem two years ago.  In my case, the leaves were spotty &
turning 'yellowish' and new growth wasn't a deep, but a light green.  A clue that
you may be having the same problem is if the smaller leaves on your plant 
start dropping off when new growth starts.  I found the majority of the problem
was twofold:

A.  Not enough acid.  Use a combination of foliar and regular feeding with
     something like MurAcid from Miracle Grow.  This took care of the yellow
     color and helped the blooms as well.

B.  I discovered my plants had 'wet feet'.  Too much water.  I cut back on the
     watering and in some cases, transplated the azalia to an area with well
     drained soil.  Both tactics worked pretty well.

Hope this helps....

Bill Hengeveld
Northern Telecom, Inc.
> 
>
From: mueller@ssd.kodak.com (Steven Mueller)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Plant Id quiz of the day.
Date: 13 Apr 92 13:26:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak
Originator: mueller@massive


	Okay all of you expert and amateur plant id'ers (taxonomists?).
	Here is todays quiz.  I am in the habit of collecting seed from
	plants in a local park which look like they may have some
	potential of being used as landscape plants at my home.  I
	picked up some seed from a plant this spring, (still dormant)
	which I have successfully germinated and have seedlings about
	3-4 inches tall.  I've no idea what they are however.  Most plants
	in this park are labelled but this one was not.  Could be a
	weed for all I know.

	I was looking for something that would add a little winter
	interest to the garden and might even attract some birds.
	This plant has nickel to quarter size yellow berries (fruit?).
	It appears to be a vining type of plant.  It was growing amongst
	a group of spirea shrubs.  Of course there wasn't
	much left of it after a Rochester winter.

	The seedlings should provide some more clues however.  The stems are
	covered with very fine thorns.  The most interesting feature is a
	single thorn at the base of each leaf just above the leaf stem.
	The leaves are sort of an arrowhead shape and of a medium to dark
	green color.

	I know it's not a lot to go on, but any ideas as to what this is?


-- 
Steven J. Mueller
Senior Software Engineer
Eastman Kodak Company, Technology Consulting, 1-10-C, Mail Drop:39011
Rochester, NY   14653-9011	Phone: (716)25-37657 (C Bldg.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: marcos@pdx047 (Marcos O. Camargo)
Subject: Peach leaf curl
Organization: Intel Corp., Hillsboro, Oregon
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1992 16:40:27 GMT

Once a peach leaf curl there is nothing you can do.  Actually spraying
copper after tree leafs out may kill the tree.  Let the tree leaf out again
and pull all fruits this year.  Keep the tree healthy this year.  Next
year spray tree with lime sulfur (the least toxic fungicide to control
peach leaf curl).  Maybe some some chemist on the net can explain what
lime sulfur is (calcium polysulphide).  Copper eventually can become
a problem as a heavy metal in soil contamination.  Also suggest that you
plant a variety of peach called "Frost", which is peach leaf curl resistant
and you can purchase this tree form Raintree Nurseries in Morton, Wa.

Good luck,



-- 
Marcos O. Camargo             |  e-mail:  marcos@ichips.intel.com
Intel Corp.  JF1-19           |  phone :  (503) 696-4273
5200 N.E. Elam Young Parkway  |  FAX   :  (503) 681-9017
Hillsboro, Oregon  97124      |
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: amir@smsc.sony.com (my login)
Subject: Cure for Peach leaf curl
Organization: Sony Microsystems Corp, San Jose, CA
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 92 01:09:19 GMT

In an effort to not use any chemicals when not needed, I didn't spray my
dwarf peach tree this year.  I now have a terrible case of Peach Leaf
Curl.  I have started spraying with copper (which I hate due to necessity
of avoiding any kind of skin contact).  Is this the best solution?

Thanks for any help,
-- 
Amir H. Majidimehr
Operating Systems Group
Sony Microsystems
amir@sony.com  | ...!{uunet,mips}!sonyusa!amir
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay)
Subject: Re: Gypsum, Sulfur, pH, and clay
Organization: Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra, Australia
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 04:10:33 GMT

dougl@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com (Doug Leno) writes:

>in hpdmd48:rec.gardens jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes:
>In the "previous posting", I wrote: 
>>Evidently, gypsum can be used for soils with very high pH (>8.3) and that have
>>an actual drainage problem due to excess sodium.  In this case, it is the
>>calcium in gypsum that helps to break up the sodium-bound soil.

>I would like to know what the Sunset Western Garden book says about the
>relationship between pH and sodium-bound clay soils.  I was told that soils
>which are sodium-bound (as described better than I did) will have a pH of >=
>8.3, and that if soil pH is under 8.3 it cannot be sodium bound and hence
>would not be helped by gypsum.  Also, soil can be "clay" without having a

>"Being careful to note the special case of sodium-bound clay soils, which have
>a high pH (>=8.3), It should be noted that soil can have the structure of clay
>independent of its pH.  Since gypsum is intended to correct the specific
>problem of sodium, it will not modify the structure of clay soils that do not
>have this condition.  Therefore, when gypsum is added to such soils, no sodium
>displacement occurs, the clay structure is not modified, and calcium simply is
>added to the soil"

>It appears to me that differences in local conditions may be significant.

This last comment may be the important statement; so called 'sodic clays' 
are widespread here, and rarely have high pH. The recommended treatment for
breaking them up is lime, but if raising the pH is not desired, gypsum is
recommended instead.
-- 
Bob McKay		   Phone:	+61 6 268 8169	    fax: +61 6 268 8581
Dept. Computer Science		Internet:	rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au
ADFA, Northcott Dve 		UUCP:...!uunet!munnari!csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au!rim
Campbell ACT 2600 AUSTRALIA	ARPA:	rim%csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au@uunet.uu.net
From: eveleigh@mbcl.rutgers.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetle Grubs
Date: 7 Apr 92 23:32:44 GMT

In article <1992Apr7.124930.3127@infonode.ingr.com>, jim@doink.b23b.ingr.com (James B. Reed) write> In article <3662@prcrs.prc.com>, link@prcrs.prc.com (John Link) writes:
> |> I just dug up my garden to allow it to dry before tilling and
> |> planting.  I noticed many Japanese beetle grubs upon turning the soil
> |> over.  A few questions:  [ ... deleted ... ]
> 
> I think there's a better solution than chemicals.  (My memory's a
> little hazy, but hopefully someone who knows will write to correct
> my mistakes.)
> 
> There's some kind of fungus that is supposed to do the trick.  I think
> the fungus stays underground and feeds off of the grubs.  I'm not sure
> of the name (milky spore?).  It may take a year or two for the fungus
> to get really well established, you probably shouldn't use anything
> else to kill the grubs during that time (what would the fungus live on?)
<resat deleted>

	You're thinking of the bacterium Bacillus popilliae (spelling
is close but probably not exact).  It causes milky spore disease in
the Japanese beetle grubs, killing them while it multiplies itself,
maintaining the bacterial population for the next grub to come along.
You're right, you shouldn't treat with chemical insecticides during the
first few years of milky-spore treatment.  As for "never" having
to reapply, the manufacturers only claim 15 years, but who knows.
Speaking of manufacturers, there are two brands of Bacillus popilliae
preparations:  Doom and Grub Attack.  Grub Attack has had dud lots 
the past few years (no viable bacteria in the preparation!) and may
be unavailable this year.  Doom had no such problems.
	There are some beneficial nematodes that are supposed to 
be active against Japanese beetle grubs, among other things.
	Disclaimer:  I've never used any of these.  I'm just going
by what the garden and lawn books say.  I have a personal and 
professional interest in "bacterial warfare" of this type, sao Ill be following
this thread with great interest...
Dorothy Klein     Biochemistry and Microbiology, Cook College, Rutgers U.
DKLEIN@zodiac.rutgers.edu
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Street trees- How do they live??
Date: 14 Apr 92 21:02:14 -0500
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

monwel@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (douglas.w.monroe) writes:
> I have a question about street trees. That is, how do they survive with 
> little or no uncovered soil around them. 

With great difficulty.

> Most trees have a little 4 square
> foot patch in which they're planted, and that is the only area they can get
> water from. Most of what I've read regarding trees is that it is very important
> not to cover roots since this is where a lot of "breathing" and moisture
> absorption takes place. Am I missing something important here? Just curious.

Some tree species can take a lot more abuse than others; they are routinely
used for street tree purposes.  The lifespan of a tree in a concrete planter
is relatively short, anyhow -- something on the order of 5 years in a city,
I hear.  Major causes of death are dog pee, de-icing chemicals, and 
cars attempting to climb them.

If the person who designed the planting actually LIKES trees, they often
engineer in a few amenities for the tree.  Some plazas have concrete slabs
that float above the soil surface, leaving air space for the roots.  Sometimes
there are even underground irrigation and drainage systems installed for the
trees.  On the whole, though, engineers consider trees nuisances as they 
start to get a little older, since they can do nasty things like stick their
roots into pipe, or heave sidewalks, or impede snow removal...

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI
From: brian@baja.Corp.Sun.COM (Brian Edge)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: zoysia
Date: 8 Apr 92 20:53:31 GMT
Reply-To: brian@baja.Corp.Sun.COM
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: baja.corp.sun.com

I've seen Zoysia Grass plugs for sale in Handyman Mag.  Can
anyone out there tell me about how these are?


Brian
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Daniel Weber)
Subject: Re: Dandelions
Originator: dweber@nvs.ncsa.uiuc.edu
Reply-To: dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu
Organization: National Center for Supercomputing Applications
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 19:38:38 GMT


Speaking of Dandelions, I am curious about something.  Why do some dandelion
flowers become "SUPER" dandelion flowers?  I sometimes see dandelions with
a flower who's stalk and flower head is broad and flat, not round.  They
look like two or three flowers and stalks all fused into one.  Anybody know
why this happens?  Is it a mutation?  Does some parasite cause the flowers
to grow huge?  Or are they two or more that have naturally "grafted" themselves
together?

				-daniel weber
				dweber@ncsa.uiuc.edu
From: starkie@eddore.trl.OZ.AU (Brad Starkie)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Lawnmowers vs Environment
Keywords: The ultimate mower
Date: 10 Apr 92 00:27:48 GMT
Organization: Telecom Research Labs,Melbourne, Australia

If a hand mower seems like too much work there is of course the ultimate 
in environmently friendly lawn mowers a SHEEP or GOAT. I've been 
considering getting a sheep myself, as we have a lot of fruit trees
and goats would be more likely to eat them than a sheep I understand.
If you don't have much lawn it doesn't matter because you can lend it
out to your friends to mow their lawn for them. There is the added
bonus of wool and/or milk if you like and flesh if you're a savage.
If your local council doesn't allow **** them, igonre them or get
them to change the reg's. They`re much less of a
nuisance than dogs. They are quieter and their turds are more
innocuous. If you are going to get one be kind to it, have a warm dry
 spot for it, check its health and give it some attention. I
understand sheep raised as pets from lambs are faithful and good
pets, and good for kids.

Incidently I've got a 9000 ft2 block thats about 75% lawn, which I mow using 
a hand mower. The climate here Melbourne Oz is rampant grass weather.
Its the main weed I have to pull out of my veggie patch. I don't
think its such hard work if you don't try to trim it too short a 3
inch high grass seems easier to maintain than a trim one. About once a month I mow the high bits which takes about an 1 hour. Of course you can spread
this over the month and do 15 mins a weekend which isn't a bad
excerise routine. Also the more you use your lawn the less mowing it
will need. This is obvious when you look at the paths you may beat in
the lawn like the one I have from the kitchen to the vegie patch.

My brother rents a house on 0.5 -.75 acre which he also mows
with a hand mower, I don't know how he does it.

Brad Starkie
From: Bob.Batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: illegal plants--lobelia
Date: 9 Apr 92 19:45:43 GMT


In article <1992Apr6.145306.11700@hemlock.cray.co>,
dadams@cherry.cray.com (David Adams) writes:

> Recently we had a discussion about listing plants
> that were illegal.
> 
> Two days ago I heard that lobelia (Indian tobacco,
> pukeweed) was illegal, or at least that it could
> not be sold as an herb.  Does anyone know 
> anything more about it?  Do any catalogs

I found a listing for the seed of Lobelia inflata (Indian tobacco) in
a 1988 _Ethnobotanical Catalog of Seeds_ from J.L. Hudson, Seedsman.
The catalog costs $1 & the address is:

        J.L. HUDSON, SEEDSMAN
        P.O. Box 1058
        Redwood City, CA 94064

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Bob Batson
bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org
kcufgat!augkc!bob.batson


 * Origin: From the north forty in Kansas, USA! (1:280/322.3)
From: Ecology Center Fund <ecologycntr@igc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 06 Apr 92 10:20 PDT
Subject: Re: city composting sites
Nf-ID: #R:1992Apr3.150339.21663@hemlock.cr:1894889973:cdp:1453300021:000:911
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Apr  6 10:20:00 1992


The guy didn't know what he was talking about, but it's not his fault, really.
Though its true that many garden chemicals will break down in a hot compost
pile, the question is, what do they break down INTO?  In general, only the
chemicals' manufacturers know even the littlest bit about potential breakdown 
products of most commercial pesticides, and they aren't telling.

Much as I admire Kay Kliers wealth of knowledge, for instance, I don't
share her acceptance of glyphosate (Roundup) primarily for this reason.  Its
sold as a product that "breaks down on contact with soil", but i have never,
in a decade of trying, found any info on its breakdown products in soil and
their potential effects.  (Hint: breakdown don't mean the stuff gets less toxic.If table salt broke down, you'd get a toxic metal which burst into flames on
contact with air, and a poison gas once used in chemical warfare . ;))

chris
From: hammaker@apple.com (Rebecca A. Hammaker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: White Flies?
Date: 17 Apr 92 15:35:27 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Apple Computer Inc, Cupertino, CA

I recently noticed little white flies on
the underside of some of my houseplant
leaves. When I try to flick them off, they
fly around making a general nuisance of
themselves. Could this be the infamous
"white fly" that I've been hearing about?
Also - does anyone have any advice on 
how I might eradicate them? The plants
I have outside seem to be fine - the
one in the house is the only one that
seems to have these pests on it...

Any information or advice would be appreciated.

-Rebecca Hammaker
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: growing carrots (was -peat moss & carrots)
Date: 9 Apr 92 22:15:40 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

judi@laplace.biology.yale.edu (Judith S. Janette) writes:
> I saw this done on the Victory Garden. They even went so far as to plant  
> beets in with carrots and radishes in wide rows. And everything looked so  
> nice and grew so well, it made me SICK!!! Why can't they show just a FEW  
> weeds on these shows so that we know that these gardens are grown right  
> here on Earth by genuine humans?! 

Hm, maybe they should film my garden.  On the other hand, maybe most
viewers aren't impressed by rows of veggies mulched with the dead
weeds that had come up in between the rows (just pull them and lay
them down in the sun, and they'll never rise again...)

Kay
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jim@doink.b23b.ingr.com (James B. Reed)
Subject: Re: Japanese Beetle Grubs
Keywords: vegatable garden
Reply-To: jimreed@b23b.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL.
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1992 12:49:30 GMT

In article <3662@prcrs.prc.com>, link@prcrs.prc.com (John Link) writes:
|> I just dug up my garden to allow it to dry before tilling and
|> planting.  I noticed many Japanese beetle grubs upon turning the soil
|> over.  A few questions:  [ ... deleted ... ]

I think there's a better solution than chemicals.  (My memory's a
little hazy, but hopefully someone who knows will write to correct
my mistakes.)

There's some kind of fungus that is supposed to do the trick.  I think
the fungus stays underground and feeds off of the grubs.  I'm not sure
of the name (milky spore?).  It may take a year or two for the fungus
to get really well established, you probably shouldn't use anything
else to kill the grubs during that time (what would the fungus live on?).
Once the fungus gets established, you never have to retreat.

Even for the worst chemical-spewing non-environmentalist, the fact
that you don't have to retreat should be sufficiently appealing.

-- 
James B. Reed                | If at first you don't succeed,
DAZIX, An Intergraph Company | Find out why,
jimreed@b23b.ingr.com        | **THEN** try again.
(205) 730-8874               |
From: voyager@irishmvs.cc.nd.edu (Captain FlashHeart Khai Fiasco, late of the RFS Twilight Vale)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Bonsai list anywhere anyone?
Date: 7 Apr 92 13:04:39 GMT
Distribution: global
Organization: University of Notre Dame

Is there a list for Bonsai enthusiasts?

If not, I'd be interested in getting mail from people who
enjoy this particular hobby.

thanks!


richard Jervis 
Notre Dame,IN

voyager@irishmvs.cc.nd.edu