HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

    Welllll, sounds like fun to me. First your going to have to be sure
you get all of the wiring harness for the 91. The radiator if its still
in one piece should be kept but you'll probably use the one you have.  
(it fits the radiator support) You'll need to get a set of peddels for
the 73 stange along with the bell crank pivots  unless they went to
a hydrolic clutch on the 91. (I haven't had the money to look close)
if they did you maybe able to adapt from the machanical peddels to the 
master cylinder. 
   The motor mounts would be the stock 73 302 mounts unless they used the
same mount for the 351. (don't know for sure) and you may have to fab
a new trans crossmember. 
   The output shaft on the 73 FMX trans was a long one, you'll have to look
and see what the overall length of the 5 sp is and end up having a new 
drive line built. (most likely the original will be too short, but the 
good news is, if the slip yoke for the 5 sp is different from the
one for the FMX they can probably cut the old one off the 91 and put
it on the new drive shaft. )
   If the 91 has rear disc brakes you maybe able to adapt them over, if 
so do it.  You'll have to go to headers or use the head pipe off the 91
if you can route it. The 351 uses different manifolds  with slightly   
(sometimes) different outlet locations. 
  I'd keep you 9 in diff unless the 91 mounts right in and has disc
brakes. 
   I had a 73 Grande, but I didn't get this carried away. I just went to
the 11:1 70 351 4 bl and built up the FMX. I used to move my wife (girl
friend then, into the back seat from sitting between the sets by jumping it
alittle. With the FMX I'd take it to 70 in first 115 in second and go for
3rd. 
            Have fun !          Mike
From: vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Date: 26 Sep 92 06:46:31 GMT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications San Diego CA

In article <1992Sep18.161555.29625@ncar.ucar.edu> 
cbh@windsurf.scd.ucar.edu (Cri
s Hannu) writes:
>
>With all this talk about turbo/super-chargers, I thought I'd throw out a
>(stupid? maybe) question.  Has there ever been a V8 with a DOHC on a 
street
>car?  Is it even possible?  Seems to me this would be a good way to 
increase
>HP w/o decreasing the life expectancy of the engine (then of course you 
could
>slap a turbo on the DOHC and get some *real* HP).
>
>Cris
How about the Lexus SC400. An easy 250 HP from 4 liters (Maybe Ford 
should take note since their Mustang GT only has 225 HP from 5 liters!).

HALE TELECOMMUNICATIONS - Public Access Node, San Diego CA 619/660-6734 HST
vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)   25-Sep-92 at 11:47p
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 92 04:00:49 PDT
Subject: Re: Opinions on Ford V8-460 engine?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   For my 2 cents worth. Yes it is a good engine.     
   As to gearing, I have a 1987 Ford F250 SuperCab. When pulling on 
the flat it works just fine with 3:54 gears. When pulling hills I fine the
gearing a bit steep But! as it is, and since I run empty most of the time
I feel that the 12 mpg I get for normal combined driving fairly nice. 
   My truck is running the 5 speed manual (5th gear overdrive) and I forgot
to mention that it's 4x4. With it loaded, ie 9 1/2 foot cabover camper and
pulling my CJ5 on a trailer it usually gets about 10mpg average. Of course  
this drops when I get offroad even in 2 wheel drive. 
   If your looking for something that will tow and get better mileage I'd
look at a 86 or newer diesel. (Ford if used) and if you what new for 
Dodge. A lot of the 88 or so Ford F250 diesel's get about 18 -20 mpg and
have a lot of pulling power. (before about 87-88 they had a few expensive
problems)         
   For the truck your talking about, if its got 3:54's with and auto or
3:73 at the lowest it should do allright. 
          (IMHO)            Mike

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Any harm if I put too much engine oil?
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 18:21:08 GMT

naiming@eng.umd.edu (Naiming Shen) writes:


>I changed the engine oil yesterday for my Honda. It suppose to take
>3.7 quarters. So I poured 3 and half bottle of oil in. When I checked
>the stick, It was about half an inch above the upper limit mark.
>I'm wondering any harm can be done by this? 
>thanks in advance.

I would not worry about over filling by this little of an amount, but
overfilling your oil to much can cause harm, with to much oil in the
engine it will start to foam, not the engine, the oil, and it will not
lube the metal in the engine like it is suppose to, which is no good,
unless you like rebuiling engines...

From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 12:02:59 -0500

 NC> From: q1hl@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Nameless CS Student)
 NC> 
 NC> In article <1992Sep26.161552.26984@wdl.loral.com> 
 NC> rkr@spl1.spl.loral.com (Robert K. Rouse) writes:
 NC> 
 NC> >       What does the oil pressure relief valve do?
 NC> It is a bypass for the oil filter, to allow the pump to continue
 NC> circulating oil in the event the filter becomes impassable. The
 NC> oil may be dirty, but dirty oil is better than none.

I don't think that the oil filter bypass valve is the one Mr. Rouse has in mind.
The "oil pressure relief valve" is generally located at the end of the main oil
galley and governs the maximum oil pressure that can be generated by the oil
pump. If it were defective (i.e., stuck open or broken spring), it would
presumably affect the oil pressure over the entire range, from idle to the point
at which max oil pressure is designed to occur.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 03:40:25 GMT

In article 23743@i88.isc.com, dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:

>But on anything other than a smooth track, live axles suck.  Rough
>ride, axle tramp, etc. should not be part of '90s cars...shame
>on GM for the new firebirds/camaros!
>

If there was one thing to be changed on the '82 to '92 F-cars, it would 
be to ditch the live axle and adopt a Corvette rear-end setup. Guess
we'll have to wait another ten years...

Andy.

IGNORANCE disclaimer applies.
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 23:51:15 EDT
From: <QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: long lasting car wax?

Hi, is there any one knows any kind of car wax that can last long?  Those I
hav e used are mostly "easy on and easy off" (eg. tutle wax).  There
would be nothing left after a single car wash.  If I put wax on, I don't want
it to be "easy off"!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: DOHC on a V8 possible?
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 92 21:50:31 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <20774@drutx.ATT.COM> ljb@parkcity.dr.att.com (BLO54620-BonhamLJ(DR2194)240) writes:
>In article <1992Sep24.050846.15734@nezsdc.icl.co.nz>, derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
>|> In article <1992Sep23.004911.18189@ultb.isc.rit.edu> ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu writes:
>|> >In article <1992Sep21.155514.24743@news.cs.brandeis.edu>, andyh@chaos.cs.brandeis.edu (Andrew J. Huang) writes:
>|> >>Many DOHC V8s, but few american ones.
>|> >>
>|> >>Maserati, Ferrari, Mercedes, Rolls-Royces (?), Porsche 928,
>|> >>Lamborghini, etc.  That is, anybody worth half a damn ( :-), flame bait
>|> >>of course!)
>|> >>
>|> >>-andy
>|> >
>|> >I see you're forgetting the American-and-Damn-Proud-of-it
>|> >Carrol Shelby's Dodge Viper, and Chevy's Corvette ZR1.  
>|> >
>|> >Of course, the viper is technically a DOHC V10, but then again, the
>|> >Lamborghini's you mention are mostly DOHC V12's.
>|> 
>|> Didn't Lamborghini design the head for the Viper engine...
>|> 
>You haven't really looked at the specs or photos of a Viper have you?  Be honest now.

The only specs I have seen were pre-production ones and the article said
Lambourghini were going to help develop the head.  I have seen photo's but 
admmitedly I didn't pay much attention.  It looked ungainly and ugly and
I couldn't understand why they needed such a big gas guzzling engine.  

Perhaps lambourghini were dropped because they improved the fuel consumption
too much.

Give me a Lotus any day.  Small powerful engine, awesome acceleration, 
style, runs on lead free regular petrol.  At the moment i've only got an
early version of the engine in my car but give me time...

Q. Will anyone ever build an environmentally friendly supercar? 
A. The Lotus Esprit SE Turbo _is_ that car.

>the Viper's motor uses a good old-fashioned single cam in the block 
>which activates the valves via PUSHRODS.  It is not an over head cam 
>engine period.  It is in fact a graduate of that time test school which 
>teaches us that there is no replacement for displacement (except loss of 
>weight).  

Yeah, lets get back to the good old days.  STEAM power.  Now they were REAL
engines,  enormous displacement in those pistons,  cylinders you could stand
up in, that was engineering....

>I don't know what you've been smoking but it must be good stuff!

Smoking, now there's another habit from the past.  This is the nineties!  
Dual overhead cam,  multi valve engines have been around for over half a 
century.  It amazes me that anyone still tries to fool the public with old
pushrod 2 valve heads.  


-- 
Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand -- 
Some of the more aware dinosaurs were worried about the environmental
consequences of an accident with the new Iridium enriched fusion reactor.  
"If it goes off only the cockroaches and mammals will survive..." they said.
From: vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: The Audi Quattro Sport
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 92 23:30:11 PDT
Organization: Hale Telecommunications San Diego CA

In <18504.2ac1a4c6@ecs.umass.edu>,sylveste@ecs.umass.edu writes:
>The Audi sport quattro that you mentioned was certainly not a production
>car. The sport was a shorteden wheelbase version of the Audi Turbo
>quattro coupe.
(details omitted)
Actually, the car was a Limited production model as per either Group A or 
Group B rally rules for production rally racing. I beleive that for those 
races, Manufacturers have to produce either 500 or 1000 examples of the 
car for sale before qualifying it for racing (although these rules may 
have changed). More than likely, you wouldn't have found any at your 
local dealer. These cars are usually snapped up by buyers before they are 
even built. The version actually used by the Factory racing team (such as 
the one used for the Pikes Peak hill climb) were putting out somewhere 
around 600 HP.

HALE TELECOMMUNICATIONS - Public Access Node, San Diego CA 619/660-6734 HST
vreality@hale.cts.com (Vreality)   25-Sep-92 at 11:36p
From: hasch@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (Tsuma Kavazi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Wax Removal
Date: 5 Oct 92 23:23:42 GMT
Reply-To: roskar@kavazi.uucp.jhu.edu (Tsuma Kavazi)
Organization: Acme Money Launderers, Inc.

In article <kelley.718130704@cwis> kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley) writes:
->
->Okay, the EASIEST way to remove wax is to goto a automotive paint store,
->ask them where there wax and degreaser is, and use it!
->this is the stuff that you wipe a car down with before you paint, apply
->decals..ect...it takes off the wax, not the paint, and leaves a clean
->surface...

I've been having success with natural gum spirits turpentine. I was cautios
at first, tested it for bug removal on a small area, and no color seemed
to come off. My Honda Accord manual recommends it for cleaning road tar,
but I've noticed the treated surface a little rougher compared to non-
turpentine wiped areas.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rkr@spl1.spl.loral.com (Robert K. Rouse)
Subject: Oil Pressure Relief Valve ?
Keywords: oil pressure
Organization: Loral Software Productivity Laboratory
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1992 16:15:52 GMT




  Experts,

	What does the oil pressure relief valve do?

	Can it cause low oil pressure at idle?

 

			robert  rkrouse@netcom.com
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: RE: Zen, diesel engines, and glow plugs...
Date: 5 Oct 92 14:29:04 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

Many thanks to the several people who e-mailed me replies
on the original posting of this.  They were very helpful.

The reply *most* helpful was one which, in part, said:

   "A diesel engine needs all of its' glow plugs
    working to crank.  Not 4/5, but all".

I bought a new set of glow plugs, pulled out the old ones,
inserted the new ones, and she started right up.  Purred
like a kitten (well, a noisy kitten - it *is* a diesel,
after all :-)  

BTW, a set of 5 new Bosch glow plugs was $100.  Avarice,
thy name is Mercedes :-(

John

--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, Florida
       --Stop the Miami Hurricanes before they kill again!--
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: HP on a 305 (was re: swapping differential)
Date: 6 Oct 92 08:34:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> Most
-> people do not have the ALL-OUT, DECKED-OUT high performance engines
-> in their rigs.

 Yeah.  That's why they think sub-ten-second second 0-60 times are hot
stuff.


-> That's reserved for the select few that can afford it.

 Har, har.  Afford it?  I used to live like Scrooge just to save a few
dollars a week toward my ride.  The old '72 Capri was three colors of
primer and had burlap sacks over the seats to keep the foam from falling
out, but it had all the suspension mounting points relocated to change
the roll steer and antidive, gumballs on custom wheels (special
backspace and bolt pattern), and a 12.5:1 351C-4v with a Reed roller
cam and that sort of stuff, with a wide ratio Toploader and a reworked
Ford shifter, 'cause Hurst performance shifters suck if you have to
downshift.

 It was my only car during that time of my life, and it got me
everywhere I needed to go.  *Quite* rapidly.

 "Afford it" is a relative thing.  Lots of people can "afford it" - they
wind up getting written up in Car Crap and the like.

 "Yes, we had a locator service find us a cherry 1973 Super Duty
Firebird, then we took it by Lingenfelter's and had them core the guts
out and put in a Pro Street subframe and aluminum panel interior,
ditched the Super Duty 455 for an RHS all-aluminum 350 Chevy motor with
a 330 degree roller cam and two Dominators, had Boyd Coddington whip up
an entire suspension out of aluminum billet, had it painted at Posie's
and had the interior done by Tony Nancy, yeah, almost sprained a hand
writing the checks, but it was worth it... drive it?  Well, you can't
actually *drive* it, cause it doesn't have any lights or mufflers, and
we used the license plate off Bob's van for the cover shots... I tell
ya, this hot rodding stuff is really neat, y'know?"
From: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Wider Wheels
Date: 27 Sep 1992 23:59:19 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Why is it that slimmer tires are better in snow?  More pressure?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: A question about grease...
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 14:29:37 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 You're best off not to use any grease, just powdered graphite. Grease
which is thick at room temp may resemble wax or plastic at 0 F. Oils and
greases also help any dust and dirt to stick to the innards better. The
best thing to do, if you have the locks out, is to clean them and lube
with dry graphite.
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Balance shafts, engine vibrations, etc.
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 1 Oct 92 23:33:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I'm interested in some history information on the balance shaft
-> technology. I'd like to know who invented it

 It was invented around the turn of the century by a British gentleman
named Lanchester, who used it in the cars he built, which oddly enough
were called Lanchesters.  Lanchester used two counterrotating shafts
with bobweights running at 2x crank speed.  The arrangement reduced the
secondary harmonics generated by balancing the piston with
counterweights on the crank.


-> I'd like to know who invented it, and which cars today have it (and
-> how long they have had it).  For example, I know that 1992 Saab
-> 9000's and 1993 Honda

 The idea sort of died out until it was taken up by Ford/Germany
(Taunus) in the late '50s and incorporated into their V4 motor.  The 60
degree 4 couldn't be adequately balanced by weighting the crank, so a
single Lanchester type shaft was added.  (most later systems only use
one shaft instead of Lanchester's two).  This engine powered zillions of
German Fords, SAAB Sonnets, and stationary irrigation pumps.

 The next occurence I remember was '74 or so, when Kawasaki used a shaft
to balance a 180-degree vertical twin motorcycle engine.  In the later
'70s they used a shaft in a 750 twin, and Mitsubishi picked up the shaft
idea for one of the cars they were building for Chrysler.  They hyped
the engine as the "Silent Shaft."

 After that, balance shafts have turned up in a lot of engines.  They
aren't used univerally because they tend to convert low frequency, large
amplitude vibration into higher frequency, lower amplitude vibration.
Perceived vibration and noise usually tolerate lower frequencies better
than "buzzy" high frequencies, so shafts are mainly used on largish
inline fours.

=======================================================================
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
(Nazareth)               XJ900 TURBO at 15psi          DoD# 978  KotFAQ
=======================================================================
               
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Carb questions
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 12:31:23 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL
Keywords: junkyards, prices

 Actually I found one of the ads Holley has been running in the car mags
and they do appear to sell emissions replacement carbs outright. They will
send you a price list if you write them at

Holley Replacement Parts Division
11955 E. 9 Mile Rd.
Warren, MI 48089.

Only phone number given is some "InfoNow" line which is a 900 number, 89 cents
a minute (pretty cheesy if you ask me, and I know cheesy) : 1-900-773-7300.
They want you to enter 52-13-16 when you get in, probably a magazine/ad code.

 Anyhow, the 4BBL emissions carb they show runs $336. Their regular performance
4BBL carbs, with choke, would run you about $200 at Summit and they list a
big 2BBL at $139. So it looks like you pay a significant premium for the
emissions stuff, but (should) get a break on the 2BBL... I think your 2BBL is
a smaller, progressive linkage type while the one they list is a 500CFM
parallel one for 2BBL V-8s. But there is a decent chance you can get an
exact replacement direct. The ads make noises about each emissions carb being
specific to a particular model/yr when you order.

 This does not constitute a commercial endorsement. No warranties expressed
or implied. Your mileage may vary. Price excludes tax, title and dealer
prep. Do not put in mouth. May cause minor skin irritation. If symptoms
persist quit reading news. For further information refer to .sig
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Subject: Re: Car storage
Reply-To: ajb8886@ritvax.isc.rit.edu
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 22:48:39 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.132138.16629@rchland.ibm.com>, alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (Eric Alter) writes:
>In article <1a80npINN8n9@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, walkerr@yaya.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker) writes:
>|> 
>|> >what I need.  Basically I need to know the steps involved in the long term
>|> >storage of a car.  I recall someone posted a memo from one of the Armed Forces
>|>  I recently read an article in Four Wheeler, i think, well anyway,  They said 
>|> to put in fresh oil, drain and flush the coolant system and refill.  put it up
>|> on blocks.  Store the tires somewere, i assume next to the car would be fine.
>|> Ditch the battery,  if your leaving it for a long time, then just sell it, but
>|> still take it out.  Wash the car,  underneath and everything, get all salt and 
>|> dirt off.  Wax it and leave teh wax on to protect the paint and stick it in
>|> a garage.  Obviously these aren't in order, but hopefully you can figure out
>|> that you take the tires off after you bring it to the car wash.  Oh yeah, try
>|> and get the gas tank as empty as possible since the gas turns to varnish, well
>|> thats what i heard.   Just put the tires on, new oil,  some good gas, not 
>|> the 3 parts water 1 part something flammable stuff.  A new battery.  A wash and
>|> wax and it should be good as new.  And don't forget to take it off the blocks.
>|> 
>|> 
>|> 
>
>Why do you store the car on blocks?  What purpose does it serve?
>
>Something else you may wish to do to a stored car (read/heard from somewhere, I
>don't remember where) is to take out all the plugs and squirt some oil in each
>cylinder.  crank the engine for a few secs to allow the oil to coat the cylinder
>walls, and then replace the plugs.
>-- 
>
>Eric Alter		alter@rchland.vnet.ibm.com
>IBM Corporation		Rochester, Mn

Generally, the idea behind putting the car on blocks is to take the weight
of the tires/wheels.  Why?  Because left to themselves the tires would steadily
lose air, and the radials would deform from the constant weight of the car over
the same position, necessitating a replacement of all 4 tires at some much 
later date.

It also takes the load off the wheel >bearings<, which can bind if the car is
sitting in the same position for an extended period of time.

Plus it lets you check the bearings and condition of the brakes prior to
putting it back on the road.  I distinctly remember after leaving my car
sitting for 6 months, at least one drum brake had frozen, and the discs
on front had rust buildup on the surfaces, which wore the pads out rapidly.

Thus I make my contribution:  After taking the wheels off with the car on
blocks, smear some kind of anti-rust compound (or a lubricant that >can< be
completely washed away with a solvent later) to prevent rust buildup on the 
disk surfaces.  Pull off the drums in back and treat them as well.

Alex