HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:51:25 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject:      Veneering stack laminated aprons

     I'm making a small semi-elliptical table with quarter-sawn sycamore
(it has a pleasing freckle/flake figure similar to quarter-sawn oak, but
more delicate).  I am stack laminating the aprons (three sections) and
facing them with band-sawn veneer.  The aprons are 4 1/4" wide, made
from five layers of 3/4" poplar and one layer of 1/2" sycamore (at the
bottom, so I can cut a bead without the secondary wood showing through).
I'm cutting each of the apron pieces with a router attached to a
cross-arm ellipse machine, registering them with dowels, and fairing the
faces of the glued-up stacks with a spokeshave.  The aprons are about 2"
thick in their middles, tapering to about 3/4" inch at their ends.  The
face veneer I've sawn is fairly thick - about 1/16".

     Finally, for my question: should I also veneer the backs of the
aprons?  I've always seen balance veneering for flat panels, but I don't
recall seeing such veneering in stack laminated constructions.

     Another question: does anyone out there have any bright ideas on
how to cut tenons on the ends of curved aprons?  I'm planning to set the
aprons on top of the legs and scribe along the sides of the legs onto
the bottoms of the aprons (the tenons are 1/2" wide, perpendicular to
the sides of the legs).  I'll square the lines around the front and back
of the aprons and knife the line along the face at the shoulder of the
tenon.  Then I'll set a square on its back on a flat table, clamp the
apron (curved side down) in a large hand screw, and adjust the apron so
the scribed line is aligned with the square.  I'll cut off the apron at
the end of the tenon with my RAS and cut the inside face of the tenon
with the RAS.  Finally, I'll cut the outside face of the tenon on my
router table.  If there is an alternative way to proceed, I'd like to
hear about it.

     Of course, I suppose it would be easier to use the tenoning jig on the
Unisaw, but Santa didn't bring me a table saw this year ;(

     This is my first attempt at joinery with curved components - it presents
lots of interesting challenges!

Jim Morgan
Brown Unversity
James_Morgan@Brown.Edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 8 Jan 1993 12:33:31 EST
From:         "Robert J. Milevski" <milevski@PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject:      Table Saw Extensions

Speaking of table saw extensions, have any of the Makita 2708 owners
ever ordered and used the wire extension pieces for this model saw?
I would like to know whether it is worth it to buy them?  Thanks in
advance.
From: golka@bnr.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Resawing with Delta 16 inch bandsaw
Date: 5 Jan 93 22:08:55 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research

In article <1iaj4kINNbl2@hp-col.col.hp.com> saksa@col.hp.com (Tom Saksa)
writes:
>I seem to recall someone asking about resawing on the Delta three wheel
>16 inch bandsaw.  I have this saw, and while I was out over the holidays
>I did some resawing on mine, but the post has expired on my system so
>I will post the results here.  I hope that it is of general interest.
>
>I tried resawing a variety of woods using the standard delta blade for
>this saw.  I was making some boxes and used a variety of woods from pine
>to hickory.  Most of the resawing was with stock from 2 to 4 inches
>thick.  Strangely enough I had the exact same bowing problem that the 
>poster mentioned with the blade tending to bow to the right.  The saw was
>set up to the best of my ability and the only way to get rid of this bow
>was to set the fence so that the wood feed at approx five degrees from
>parallel to the blade.  
>
>While I was at the local Delta sales/service center for another purchase,
>I mentioned the problem I was having.  The service rep pointed out that
>the standard delta blades for the three wheeled saw do not do a good job
>resawing because they are that shiny spring steel, thinner and more
>flexible to reduce metal fatigue over the smaller wheels, and do not have
>the correct tooth pattern for what I was doing.  
>
>He sold me two new blades to try cut from bulk stock.  The blades he
>recommended I try were a 6 TPI hook tooth, and a 4 TPI skip tooth.  I
>took them home and both worked very well.  He said that these blades may
>not last as long on the three wheeled saw or may not get tentioned well
>enough, but I was happy with the results and made lots of sawdust without
>any problems.  
>
>I guess this just underscores the importance of using the correct blade
>in a bandsaw!
>
Thanks, but how wide? were the blades? 1/4", 3/8" 3/4"? I know you aren't
supposed
to use grater than 3/8" blades, but I talked to someone who used 3/4" to resaw.
He mentioned
they bind on the gaurd if they come off the wheels? Anyone else using >3/8"
blades on 
a 16" three wheeler?

Thanks Bill Crick
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Jointers, Which one to buy?
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:44:43 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

I have the roller extensions for my Ryobi jointer.  They are helpful for the support of longer pieces but, because they are not a solid extension (i.e. there is one roller that is located about a foot away from the main table),  they don't contribute to straightening edges of long boards as much as a long solid infeed/outfeed tables would.  In other words, don't expect to get the same results from the extension-equipped Ryobi as you would from a jointer with a 30" infeed table. 
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: krb@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (Kevin Barnes)
Subject: Re: Water stained pine
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 19:12:23 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard NARC Atlanta
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1.3 PL5

1) sandn the wood wuth a very fine paper or steel wool.

2) treat (brush on ) pure denatured alcohol this will dry the wood as the alcohol evaporates. 

3) Prime away and paint.

BE REAL CAREFUL WITH THE ALCOHOL it is really flamable and you can't see the flame!!!
From: walt@eng.clemson.edu (Walter B. Ligon III)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Simple problem, solution needed
Date: 8 Jan 93 15:01:00 GMT
Reply-To: walt@eng.clemson.edu
Organization: College of Engineering, Clemson Univ.

In article 3p2@athena.cs.uga.edu, mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) writes:
>In building toys and small gadgets, I'm often faced with the following
>problem:
>  
>  What is the best way to make a clean, perpendicular crosscut in
>  a piece of molding or other wood considerably smaller than a 2x4?
>
>  [ stuff deleted ]
> 
>  Cheap miter box with back saw -- Best results so far.  Maybe I should
>    get a quality miter box with a finer-toothed saw...?
>


I've got a decent quality miter box and it is quite nice for this purpose.
One can be had anywhere from $75 to $150 with an 18" blade.  Depending on
how long your pieces are, you may want to build a set of extensions to help
support the stock for your cut.

Walt
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
Subject: Re: What to do after the fact [was WARNING (response to...)]
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 20:36:47 GMT

ben@angelo.amd.com (Ben Chang) writes:
: In response to an article where someone's fingers get chopped off....
: 
: I've heard that you should take the finger and put it in a glass of milk
: or salt water then get to the hospital for surgery.  Does that sound right?


No - it is not right. Why contaminate it with more junk?

Have someone find the piece - if they can do it safely. It should be
kept cold, but not frozen. Get victim and severed digit to hospital
as quickly as possible.

Bill
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw surface rust
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:17:22 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.


I have found it beneficial to polish the surface of my table saw buy using a wax with cleaner/polish in it!  What you don't want is any silicone in the wax because it may get onto the wood and cause finishing problems.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Subject: Re: German Hand Tools
Keywords: Gouges, Woodcarving, Germany
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:20:11 GMT

By all means get some #1 and #2 Phillips screwdrivers.  Although they
*look* the same as American ones, they are made in metric sizes and
will be a better fit on screws on imported electronic equipment or the like.
(Not what you were asking for, I know, but you might as well not miss
the opportunity; America is full of Phillips screws that no American
screwdriver fits!)
-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :    *****
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :  *********
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :   *  *  *
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :  ** *** **
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:22:13 GMT

Don Berry writes
>     For comparison, Woodworker's Supply sells the 36in
> clamp for $25, and the mini-clamps for $14 each.
> 
> Size   price    item #
> 
> 6in   $10.99   04489-1WJA
> 12     13.99   04490-0WJA
> 18     14.99   04491-1WJA
> 24     16.99   04492-2WJA
> 36     18.99   04493-1WJA
> 6in mini-bar clamp (set of 2)  $14.69  (item #01034-6WJA)
> 
> Harbor Freight:  (800) 423-2567

Woodworker's Supply is typically on the high side for price, except for 
powered tools.

Around here (No. CA) Home Depot and Costco sell the Mini-clamp set for
within $0.30 of the Harbor Freight price. Costco also sells a boxed set
of two 24" clamps for less than $30 - cheaper than the $17/clamp price
that Harbor's charging. Of course, you have to be a Costco member...

Some usage notes: Think of the mini-clamps as large capacity spring clamps,
and you'll be fine. I'd spend the extra $3 per clamp and get the regular 6" 
instead. You can't get much clamping pressure out of them. You have to 
seat the pads fully and squarely on the work - if you just try to clamp at
the edges (due to clearance problems) or try to clamp things that aren't
square to the pads, the pads will slip off. I would never use these clamps
for gluing, just for quick positioning to hold things while I get real 
clamps on (or to hold a jig in place). The one-handed clamping ability 
*is* nice sometimes (like when the wife can't come in to help out).

It cracks me up to hear Norm call them quick-release clamps. The quick
release isn't their main feature (other clamps have that) - it's the
"quick-on" that let's you postion and tighten the clamp with one hand,
freeing the other hand for holding the work.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@adobe.com
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Would a folding router table be sturdy enough?
Date: 5 Jan 93 17:59:17 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <C0Duuw.Ep5@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu>, smp@cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (Shailesh M. Potnis) writes:
> 

> 	My question is: would this arrangement be sturdy enough for medium
> duty use?  The top is 32 X 24 X 1.5" of particle board and Formica. 
> 

If the base weighs 300 lbs, it should be :-)

Seriously, have you considered building an extension table to the right
of your table saw and using the routertable top as the surface?  Assuming
you have a table saw, most saws weigh at least 200 lbs and provide a very
stable support.  You get the dual benefit of a saw extension.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: fleming@blitzen.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Joe Fleming)
Subject: Re: WARNING
Reply-To: fleming@blitzen.SanDiego.NCR.COM (Joe Fleming)
Organization: NCR Corporation, Rancho Bernardo
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 17:31:52 GMT

>
>My dad just chewed up two fingers on the tablesaw trying to take a
>shortcut.  He was ripping very small pieces (about 1" x 3/4") for some
>>
>>I have a few scars too, most notable is a saw scar 1/3 way
>>through my right thumb.  It only went partway through due to

You may add my name to the notched thumb club.  I was cutting small pieces for
an inlayed table and reached to remove a piece that caught on the throat plate
of the saw.  The piece kicked back with my left thumb riding the piece.  Thank
God I was only cutting 1/4" stock or I might have lost the tip of my thumb.

Joe Fleming
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: toml@xrxedds.UUCP (Tom Love)
Subject: drying green wood
Organization: Xerox EDDS, Herndon, Va.
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 14:20:46 GMT

i have access through a local sawmill to ungodly cheap roughsawn oak,
cherry, walnut, and occassionally other hardwoods.  it is, of course,
totally green. 

i am interested in information on the various ways i might dry this
sort of wood for use in cabinetry, millwork, and toymaking.  i am
familiar with a relatively low-cost (several hundred $ and lots of
man-hours) home-built kiln in FWW about a year ago, but am not sure i
want to invest the money or space in one (yet).

i am really interested in air drying.  i have a barn with loft which i
could happily dedicate to wood storage/drying.  it gets pretty warm up
there in the summer - perhaps 125 deg F?  properly stacked and
stickered, what would my odds be of getting a usable product?  how
long would it take to dry properly?  should i invest in one of those
moisture meters?

i guess i'm interested in (a) personal experience, (b) references to
books or articles, and (c) alternative approaches (commercial kiln?
haven't investigated).  especially item (b).

this seems like a general enough topic for discussion - anyone have
any thoughts?  thanks in advance.  (and thanks to all for knowledge
i've gleaned from this group over the years - happy new year!).



--

-----

Tom Love
Xerox Engineering Systems / Engineering Document Management Systems
607 Herndon Pkwy, Herndon, VA 22070  Voice 703-787-2027  Intelnet 8-440-2027
				     Fax 703-787-2110
Internet:   toml@xrxedds.com
            toml.herndon@xerox.com
UUCP:       ...!uunet!xrxedds!toml
XNS:        toml:herndon:xerox
From: roche@cs.rochester.edu (James Roche)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Changes to Frequently Asked rec.woodworking questions
Date: 4 Jan 93 17:17:02 GMT
Expires: 17 Feb 1993 17:13:22 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester
Frequency: monthly

34,35c34,37
< 	16). Which saw blade should I buy
< 	17). Where are the archives for rec.woodworking
---
> 	16). Which saw blade should I buy?
> 	17). Where are the archives for rec.woodworking?
> 	18). Where can I find cradle plans?
> 	19). Where can I find futon plans?
376a379,405
> 
> 18). Where can I find cradle plans?
> 
> 	1.  Garrett Wade
> 		$9.95 for plans for a "rocking cradle
> 		item number 14A03.SA in their 1993 tools catalog
> 
> 	2.  The Woodworkers' Store
> 		$4.95 for plans for a "four post cradle"
> 		item number 40360 in their 1991-2 catalog
> 
> 	3.  The August 1990 issue of Fine Woodworking has an article about
> 		making a cradle.
> 
> 	4. Bartley offers a cradle kit for $199.  If it's up to the quality
> 		of their other kits, this should be good.
> 
> 
> 19). Where can I find futon plans?
> 
> 	1. TODAYS WOODWORKER JULY/AUG 1989, VOL 1 NO. 4
> 		Queen size futon folded in half length wise.
> 
> 	2. WOODWORKER'S JURNAL NOV/DEC 1992 VOL 16 NO. 6
> 		"Standard" futon frame for standard 2 fold futon.
> 
> 	3. Fine Woodworking    July/August '89 NO. 77
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hamilton@batman.rtp.dg.com (Eric Hamilton)
Subject: Re: Power Switch on RAS ???
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 14:46:08 GMT
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <1993Jan11.213642.23188@mloeff01.cpchq.cpc.gmeds.com>, kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L) writes:

|> >>  And DON'T EVER, EVER, EVER try to cut pressure-treated 2 X 6's that
|> >>are still wet in the middle.
|> >
|> >	??? Why not ??? As I would have most assuredly have tried this, and
|> >likely will... could you tell me what to expect????....
|> >
|> >
|> This advice was a bit tongue-in-cheek however the warning was
|> definitely intended.  The wet pressure-treated (PT) wood caused
|> the saw blade to bind in the cut about midway through the cut.
|> The blade climbed in the saw kerf and jammmed stalling out the motor.
|> tor.  Having the saw jump as violently as it did was most disconcerting
|> (It would have been nice to have a thumb switch then!!) 
|> 

I tried mailing this but it bounced.....

Sounds like the blade might be heeling just a little bit - heel that's
not usually noticable becomes very noticable when cutting wet stuff.

RAS techniques for cross-cutting obstinate wood:

1) Check alignment and heel.  Often a misbehaving RAS is just out of alignment.
2) Start at the front and push back.  If you do this, be very sure where
   your other hand is.  This is not a technique for the inattentive - don't
   try it unless you know what you're doing.
3) Cut in two (or more) passes.  If this leaves a shoulder in the cut, then
   you can be quite sure that something is wrong, probably excessive play
   in the carriage wheels.
4) Wood that's not straight will bind badly if it touches the fence on
   either side of the kerf but not at the kerf.  Usually turning the workpiece
   over, so the other (convex) side lies to the fence will solve this problem.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Hamilton				+1 919 248 6172
Data General Corporation		hamilton@dg-rtp.rtp.dg.com
62 Alexander Drive			...!mcnc!rti!xyzzy!hamilton
Research Triangle Park, NC  27709, USA
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: parnass@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S)
Subject: Re: Sale on Quick-Grip clamps
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 20:19:13 GMT
Summary: clamp price nostalgia

In article <berry-050193092919@si.chem.upenn.edu>,
berry@a.chem.upenn.edu (Don Berry) writes:
 
  >     I saw these extremely low prices for Quick-Grip bar
  > clamps in a special flyer from Harbor Freight...
  > 
  > Size   price    item #
  > 6in   $10.99   04489-1WJA

I guess the manufacturer found its price niche
for these new fangled clamps.

They were just beginning to appear in stores 3 years ago.
Back then, I bought a bunch of them on sale for $7.99
at the local True-Value hardware store.

  > 6in mini-bar clamp (set of 2)  $14.69  (item #01034-6WJA)

Now, the same hardware store prices these clamps at $7.99 each
when they run a sale.

I use Quick-Grips instead of C clamps when I can because they are
so easy to tighten and don't mar the wood.

I don't use them for clamping wood to my drill press table because they
don't grip strong enough to prevent wood from moving if the bit begins
to bite into the wood.
-- 
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S  -  AT&T Bell Labs  -  parnass@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414
From: wagner@mala.bc.ca
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Recommendation:  Bandsaw and Air Compressor
Date: 11 Jan 93 18:10:05 -0700
Organization: Malaspina College

In article <C0pD5L.EnA@hpuerca.atl.hp.com>, sfk@hpuerca.atl.hp.com (Steve Katz) writes:
> 
> I am considering the purchase of two new tools:  a bandsaw and an air
> compressor.  I would appreciate your opinions and reasoning on what to
> purchase.
> 
> The bandsaw will be used for small to medium projects (small furniture, etc).
> In particular, I would like to be able to re-saw wood for drawer sides,
> and also would like to cut larger pieces, etc. than I can w/my current
> Craftsman benchtop band saw (the blade wanders, and the motor is not
> strong enough).  I would like to keep the price under $500.  What brands,
> sizes, features, etc. do you like?
> 
> The AIR compressor will initially be used for inflating things such as 
> bike and car tires, etc.  However, when finances allow, I would like to 
> get a good quality finish nailer, stapler, sander, and most importantly,
> sprayer.  What tools are the most demanding in terms of pressure and 
> volume?  What size motor do I need (110/220VAC) - 3HP, 5HP?  How large
> should the tank be?  What brands are good?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help.
> 
> 
Not much able to inform on the bandsaw, but the compresser is another story.

I use a 5 hp compressor made for Cambell Hausfield (spelling) and it't is
totally adequate for all the tools I own.  I do body work and the only time it
runs out is on my inline sander (airboard).  It's connected for 220 operation
only because I can use a longer power cord.  The only difference I honestly
found between 110 and 220 operation is when you get over 10' of cord on 110 it
sometimes won't even start.

With a sprayer, get a good water trap and don't install it any closer than
10 feet (conservative estimate) to the compresser feed.  Laquers and enamels
hate water and the sprayer will collect them.  Also install the compresser in
such a way that you can regularly drain it.  The tank will accumulate water ant
pass it to the system.

Also oil your rotary tools regularly.  Best bet is a couple of drops of good
air tool oil into the air feed before you plug it in.  Don't over oil though or
the sander will spit all over your nice new teak.

Personally I prefer air to electricity for all my small tool needs.  I've even
fed air to my small tools (bandsaw, fretsaw, unimat, drill press) with the use
of a small aquarium air manifold and 1/8" tubing to clear dust and crud.

73, Tom

Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 7 Jan 1993 11:40:16 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      What to do after the fact?

I was talking with an aquaintance some time back about his stub where his
index finger used to be.  He got careless with a circular saw.  I asked the
obvious question about reattachment and why he had chosen not to have his
finger sewn back on.  His response was that he had a mechanic friend who cut
his finger off and every time that finger got cold it turned blue and caused
him a great deal of pain....seemed to be a circulation problem.  Hence his
decision..

Its been awhile and I'm sure the procedure for digit reattachment has improved
but this has always concerned me when I contemplate the "what if" scenario..

My hands get cold ALOT,  would I rather deal with frequent pain or a
disfigured hand?  I'm not sure yet....I'll cross that road when I never come
 to
it but it is still a bothersome question..

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALL
From: kl@cveng120.veheng.det (Keith L)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Push Sticks  (was Re: WARNING (respons
Date: 6 Jan 93 19:20:07 GMT
Reply-To: kl@cveng120.veheng.det
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Your comments echo my sentiments about using my Leichtung safety rollers on my Delta TS!!!!!!!
From: speck@filter1.llnl.gov (despeck@llnl.gov)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Getting started woodcarving
Date: 7 Jan 93 02:20:38 GMT
Reply-To: despeck@llnl.gov
Organization: Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory

I'm looking to start carving and could use some advice.  I've
purchased Fine Woodworking on Woodcarving, but am also looking for a
definitive reference on chisel styles, purposes, and techniques.  I'd
like to pick up some basic used tools at a flea market or used tool
dealer, but I wouldn't know what features to look for or avoid, so a
reference for buying used tools would be nice as well.  Last but not
least, I have plenty of mail order catalogs but would like to know of
any good new/used tool dealers in the San Francisco bay area.

Thanks
Doug Speck
despeck@llnl.gov
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking