HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles

                FABRIC SURPLUS SALE

Getting rid of my surplus fabric.  Send me a check or money order for
$12 and you will receive at least 6 yards of fabric in 1/4 yard cuts;
24 different fabrics; mostly cottons suitable for quilting.

Some cuts will be fat quarters, some will be reqular quarters, a few
will be other rectangular shape equivalent to 1/4 yard (405 square
inches).

If you prefer a particular color family, let me know and I will try
to accommodate.  

If you prefer more different fabrics, please state size of cut you
want and I will send as many as I can to make up the six yards.

Send $12 personal check or money order to:

Karen Robinson 
36305 - 312th Avenue SE
Enumclaw, Wa.  98022
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: kjc7435@ultb.isc.rit.edu (K.J. Cater)
Subject: Need mail order address for cloth painting(ready-made sweatshirts)
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 03:13:30 GMT

I am looking for the address of any mail order companies which sell
pre-drawn designs on sweatshirts for a friend who does cloth painting
(preferably companies in the U.S.A.).  Please send replies via e-mail to
my address: "kjc7435@ritvax.isc.rit.edu".

Thanks!

Yours sincerely,

Miss Kerry Cater.
From: kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Quilt Design
Date: 25 Jan 1993 19:12:44 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

Hello!

This is:  kw0426@shire.ac.arknet.edu
My mother has designed the most wonderful quilt, and is interested in
entering it in contests, and in publishing the design.  It is a 
Japanese Motif inspired design.  Does anyone have information that could
help her, or know where I could look?
Thanks so much--
--Ken
From: gts@po.CWRU.Edu (Grace T. Soule)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival
Date: 23 Jan 1993 01:30:05 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
Reply-To: gts@po.CWRU.Edu (Grace T. Soule)
NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu


Can anyone tell me when the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival
is this year?  It was around May 1 last year, and I need to know so that
I can arrange vacation time (and take out a second mortgage
for all the yarn I'll want to buy).

Todd
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:2670 rec.crafts.misc:1006 alt.sewing:3872
From: wrr3118@tamsun.tamu.edu (Rick Russell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.misc,alt.sewing
Subject: Re: Mail-Order Source For Unique Stuffed Animals?
Date: 25 Jan 1993 10:43:07 -0600
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: tamsun.tamu.edu

In article <1993Jan25.145721.11016@ncar.ucar.edu> rehak@rap.ucar.edu (Nancy Rehak) writes:
>You might want to check out the pattern books at your local sewing stores.
>One of the big names (Simplicity, Butterick or McCall's) has a chicken pattern
>(I don't see a chicken listed below) that a friend of mine made.  Of course, if
>you are after very realistic patterns, these may not be what you want.  I also
>have seen some pretty nice and more unusual and realistic stuffed animal
>patterns in the Vogue books.

If I were to make my own attempt at a stuffed animal, I'd want a
pattern that is a good tradeoff between realism and sewing difficulty.
Of course, I guess the level of tradeoff would be entirely up to me
:-) !

Anyway, keep the replies coming folks, I'm getting some good ones.
I'll post a summary shortly. And by the way, I will read alt.sewing &
rec.crafts.textiles at least for a while, so I don't miss any news
posted replies.

Thanks!
-- 
#      Rick Russell | TAMU Meteorology | wrr3118@tamsun.tamu.edu       # 
#     "Tomorrow! Tomorrow! I'll claw ya, tomorrow!                     #
#      It's only a litter box away!"               - Bill the Cat      #

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: lsc@ssd.intel.com (Linda Cline)
Subject: Re: quilt program for computer?
Keywords: Knitted Vest
Organization: Supercomputer Systems Divison, Intel Corp.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 00:24:35 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.144143.16420@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca>, kao@adam.unbsj.ca (Kim Osborne) writes:
|> Hi, I got the xstitch program yesterday and it is great! I was wondering
|> if there was a programout there for quilts. Also, does anyone know
|> if there is a list that deals with quilts? Thanks!
|>                                           Kim 

I mentioned the Seattle Textile Computer User's Group (STCUG) when 
I posted information about various cross-stitch programs recently,
and the STCUG newsletter from October 92 deals with quilting software
packages.  It mentions a variety of programs available, mostly
commercial products, and a shareware program that is available on
their DOS disk #3.  You can request a back issue of the newsletter
for $1.00 from STCUG P.O. Box 17506, Seattle, WA, 98107, and the
disk for $4.00 (there are some other programs on the disk as well).
The software programs mentioned in the newsletter include "Quilter's
Design Studio", "PC Quilt" (one version available shareware on the #3
disk), "Quilt Top Designer" (for MAC), "Quilt" (just a screen saver, 
also on the #3 disk), "A Quilter's Aide" (HyperCard stack also on #3 
disk), "The Electric Quilt", and "Block Base" (database of quilt 
block designs).

There are some files available in Library 6 (Sewing and Quilting)
of the Crafts Forum on Compuserve.  These include a review of 
"Electric Quilt" software, the "PC Quilt" shareware program 
available on disk mentioned above, "Quilt" screen saver, and 
"Quilter's Aide" HyperCard stack.

	linda

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
"Now, here, you see, it takes all the running you can do, to keep in
the same place.  If you want to get somewhere else, you must run at
least twice as fast as that!"	
                                        Lewis Carroll
Linda Cline                             Through the Looking Glass
Intel Supercomputer Systems Division 
email: lsc@ssd.intel.com
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

 
Xref: sparky rec.crafts.textiles:2696 alt.sewing:3885
From: alg@cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
Subject: Knitting Maillist
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:43:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1993Jan26.204345.11443
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853


I would like to talk with the person who was interested in starting a knitting
maillist.  Unfortunately I've lost track of her name and address. If you
remember who this person is, please contact me.  Thanks!

					-Anne
Anne Louise Gockel			Cornell Computer Science
Internet: alg@cs.cornell.edu		UUCP: cornell!alg
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
From: vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: knitting camp!
Date: 21 Jan 1993 16:23:47 GMT
Organization: Inter-University Consortium for Political and Social Research
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: tdis.icpsr.umich.edu

In article <C168oy.7tw@panix.com> ilaine@panix.com (Liz Stokes) writes:
>In article <1jh9hfINNs3s@terminator.rs.itd.umich.edu> vln@icpsr.umich.edu (Victoria Neff) writes:
>>In article <1993Jan15.131204.13665@hemlock.cray.com> jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister) writes:
>>> Is anyone else interested in knitting lace?  What have you made?
>>
>>I'm interested in this question, too.  I'm a spinner and knitter.  I haven't
>>knit any lace, but I'm interested in seeing how fine I can spin (haven't
>>really pushed myself lately), and I'm assuming some sort of lace is the
>>logical end result.  However -- I'm not a lace person.  I won't wear it.
>>
>>So -- what else do you do with lace?  I suppose I could just frame it.... :-)
>
>	Put it on everything - sheets pillowcases, towels, curtains, 
>tablecloths, aprons...  - there is never too much handmade lace.
>					-Liz

Geez, I was thinking I'd be doing my fine-spinning with wool (my fave), but
you guys are telling me it has to be cotton or linen, no?  I mean, if it
goes on linens....  :-)  I'm not sure I want to commit myself to knitting
with linen -- I'm not sure I'd think it was fun to knit something so
inelastic.  Maybe I'll just frame it after all....  :-)  Nice wool doily.....

And lace socks would mean I had to shave my legs.....  :-)














Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Attn: Ron Parker
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 13:01:56 -0500

  MB> From: mberteig@cco.caltech.edu (Michelle Berteig) Newsgroups:
  MB> rec.crafts.textiles Organization: California Institute of Technology,
  MB> Pasadena
  MB> 
  MB> Hi, This message is for Ron Parker, of Fibernet.  Sorry to be taking
  MB> up the space, but I've misplaced his address.  Anyway, Ron, I've tried
  MB> to call Fibernet to download some of the cross stitch programs, but
  MB> whenever I call the number I got here for Fibernet, 1-218-583-4887, I
  MB> get a recorded message that says, "We cannot complete this call as
  MB> dialed, blah blah blah..."  Have any idea what the problem might be? 
  MB> Thanks for your help!
  MB> 
  MB> Sincerely, Michelle Berteig
  MB> 
  MB> mberteig@cco.caltech.edu
  MB> 
  MB> ---
  MB>  * Origin: The Black Cat's Usenet <=> Fidonet Gateway (1:109/401.0)

I have the same problem as well.  I have been trying to call Fibernet up, with
no luck so far.

Lola
From: judys@sytex.com (judy smith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Maryland Sheep and Wool F
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 11:54:23 EST
X-Maildoor: WaflineMail 1.00r


GTS>Can anyone tell me when the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival
GTS>is this year?  It was around May 1 last year, and I need to know so that
GTS>I can arrange vacation time (and take out a second mortgage
GTS>for all the yarn I'll want to buy).

GTS>Todd

Todd, The Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival is almost always the first
weekend in May at the Howard County Fairgrounds. I will
be glad to post the info as soon as I get it this year.
Judy/Washington, DC

*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*
*  Judy Smith                   *
*  INTERNET: judys@sytex.com    *
*  GEnie: JUDY.S                *
*  PRODIGY: TXXT92A             *
*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*
---
 * OLX 2.1 TD * If this were an actual tagline, it would be funny.
From: Marina.Salume@corp.sun.com (Marina Salume)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: gold needles
Date: 27 Jan 1993 17:18:01 -0500
Organization: Cornell University

>I have been reading a lot of British needlework and cross-stitch
>magazines in the past six weeks. A VERY expensive habit that I picked
>up over Christmas break. They all advertise 24 carat gold needles,
>both #24 and #26. The asking price is usually about 6 pounds sterling
>for three. The obvious advantage to these needles is that they would
>not rust. Has anyone seen an ad for such needles in American or
>Canadian magazines, or have you seen them in your stores? I would like
>to get some. I have no objection to ordering them from England, except
>that it is kind of a hassle. Any information would be gratefully appreciated.
>Deborah

This ad was in the Oct.92 issue of "Just Cross Stitch" magazine:

Anne Powell Ltd will sell you 6 different sizes of solid 9 ct gold 
tapestry needles, (size 24 to 13) for prices ranging from $23.00
to $98.00--I guess the largest needles are the most expensive.The 
ad says the needles are English-made.

Call 1-800-622-2646 to order by credit card. Or send $4 for a
color catalogue, or $10 for the catalog plus linen swatches.
Their address is:

P.O. Box 3060, Stuart, FL 34995

--marina.salume@corp.sun.com
From: debram@hpsmtc1.cup.hp.com (Debra Mallette)
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:35:35 GMT
Subject: Re: framing
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles

   Use a large flat blade screw driver.  For extremely hard woods, hit
   the handle with a hammer.

   Good luck,
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: want to drill and thread holes
Date: 22 Jan 93 16:41:48 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <4157@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
> 
[stuff]
> 
> You really stepped in it.
> 
> One should be cautious about making assumptions about how "new" people are.

C'mon now, Chris, Phil even said he was new to tapping!

> Phil has been around here a lot longer than you, longer than almost anybody
> else here.

He'd have to have more than 33 years experience, both as a machinist and
in construction, as well as a few other areas.  Maybe you've made an
assumption yourself.  I never said I was new.

> And careful reasoning (rather than "oh no, you're crazy, you must
> be new, don't do that!"

I never said that.

> I agree tho.  Even in aluminum, 289 threaded holes is gonna be a bitch.
> 

And you agreed with what I did say.

How about responding to what I did say instead of what you reconstruct I
would have said if I was as nasty as you think I am.
From: rmt@pioneer.net.com (Richard Tweedie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Oxy/Acet welding problems
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:50:45 GMT
Organization: Network Equipment Technologies

>   **DELETED**
>Does anyone have any comment about the size of the rod (with regard to
>the thickness of the material I'm welding,.080") and the technique I
>mentioned about keeping the rod in the puddle as the puddle is moved
>along.  Is this what everyone does?
>
>Thanks again, Corky Scott

 Tried  to send email, but bounced.  

I know your concern--I have rebuilt a wrecked luscombe, and my (at the

 time) tired Stinson (well it is getting due again!).  Also have been 
 building a Thorp T-18.  Anyway, like so many other things, the 
 pressure depends.  FOr example I have a Harris torch set.  It is 
 designed for equal pressures, but many are not.The type of welding, 
 tip and thickness can all affect the most desireable pressure
 settings.  While adjusting the torch is what directly affects the
 flame, not enough pressure will result in a cold weld or not enough
 penetration because not enough total flow is available.  Too much
 pressure makes the flame unstable and hard to adjust.  I use 3/32
 rod for most of the chrome moly work.  1/8 for the really thick
 (.125 and above).

 WHile ordinary bricks have worked out for me to put the work on,
 watch out for **WARPAGE**. A 90 degree joint in chrome moly
 tubing pulls in to less than 90 when it cools unless in a jig
 of some kind. 

 Yes, I run the rod in the puddle along the weld.  I learned in a 
 welding class at junior college and reccomend it.

 Good Luck

 Rich Tweedie
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: bwilson@eng.auburn.edu (Brian Scott Wilson)
Subject: Re: anybody do much blacksmithing?  how about fo
Reply-To: bwilson@eng.auburn.edu
Organization: Auburn University Engineering
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 17:50:41 GMT


Go ahead you Lazy SCA'er
From: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Determining Aluminum from junk metal
Date: 26 Jan 93 12:49:11 GMT
Reply-To: plumpe@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Plumpe)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.crafts.metalworking, arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes:
=jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes:
=: I have some scrap aluminum but am unsure if it is actually Al or
=: just pot metal.  They are castings of several pounds.  Is there
=: some easy way to determine aluminum from some other metals/alloys?
=: It at least fails the magnet test!
=:
=: Several years ago I recycled some large pieces, and the guy at
=: the recycling station filed a piece to clean it up, dripped something
=: from a plastic bottle onto it, and stared for a few seconds.  But
=: I have no idea what the solution was.
=
=Could have been lie.  Aluminum will for hydrogen gas (bubbles) in a lye
=solution. Don't knnow what pot metal is but if it a pot, it is is probably
=aluminum.  the most common other cast metal is zink or some alloy of it.
=This can be tested by melting some.  It will melt with a hot soldering iron.
=js

    Or maybe it was silver nitrate, to detect magnesium (they make flares
out of magnesium, don't they? 8-( ).  To quote from "How to Cast Small
Metal and Rubber Parts" by William A. Cannon, TAB Books, 1986:
    "-- apply a drop of 1 percent silver nitrate solution to the freshly
filed surface of the metal.  If the metal is magnesium, a black stain
will appear immediately.  Aluminum and its alloys will remain unchanged."

	      -DaveP
From: stavros@agora.rain.com (Steve Culliton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: recommendation for band saw for cutting Al tubing
Date: 24 Jan 93 21:19:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: agora.C1Dn8o.GAw
Organization: Open Communications Forum

In article <8386@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM> steveha@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Steven L Harris) writes:
>In article <laird.727719113@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu> laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird) writes:
>>I'd like to cut some chimes out of aluminum.  (What do you think
>>they'll sound like?)  I'd like to get a small (table top) band
>>saw, but I can't find any blades of that size for aluminum.
>>
>>So...will a table top model hold up to cutting a couple hundred
>>chimes?  Which one should I get?  Where can I get blades for Al?
>>
>>thanks!
>>
>>--kyler
>
>
>
>Normal woodworking blades hold up reasonably well to cutting
>aluminum.  I am building an aluminum airplane and use normal
>woodcutting blades all the time to cut the aluminum.  Wear
>hearing protection, it is really loud.  And never cut steel, it
>will ruin your blade instantly.
>
>Steve

How about just using a simple, cheap $8.00 tube cutter?  
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: arf@ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Re: Determining Aluminum from junk metal
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:40:30 GMT
Organization: ddsw1.MCS.COM Contributor, Chicago, IL
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu writes:
: I have some scrap aluminum but am unsure if it is actually Al or
: just pot metal.  They are castings of several pounds.  Is there
: some easy way to determine aluminum from some other metals/alloys?
: It at least fails the magnet test!
: 
: Several years ago I recycled some large pieces, and the guy at
: the recycling station filed a piece to clean it up, dripped something
: from a plastic bottle onto it, and stared for a few seconds.  But
: I have no idea what the solution was.
 
Could have been lie.  Aluminum will for hydrogen gas (bubbles) in a lye
solution. Don't knnow what pot metal is but if it a pot, it is is probably
aluminum.  the most common other cast metal is zink or some alloy of it.
This can be tested by melting some.  It will melt with a hot soldering iron.
js
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Subject: Re: How to remove cross-threaded bolt...?
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 20:38:41 GMT

iceman@camelot.bradley.edu (Christopher Ice) writes:

>In <C1C94H.KMI@athena.cs.uga.edu> mcovingt@athena.cs.uga.edu (Michael A. Covington) writes:

>>How should I approach the problem of removing it?  So far, I've put a C-clamp
>>on the blade (rendering it immobile) and have used an open-end wrench on
>>the bolt, with no success, even hitting the wrench with a hammer.  Spraying
>>WD-40 on the bolt and leaving it for 30 minutes didn't work.

>You aren't using a big enough wrench!  Try using a 1/2 drive socket wrench and
>a good length breaker bar.

>Take heed!!!  The threads have already been ruined.  You will have to re-tap
>the spindle with a larger thread.  The centerline of the new thread must be
>ABSOLUTELY inline with the axis of the spindle or the blade will wobble.  If
>you don't have the tools/know-how/facilities to do this, maybe a local machine
>shop or community-college will help.

I don't think the bolt threads have much to do with centering the
blade. If the bolt is off center it will of course contribute to
unbalance, by the amount of its own mass, but the blade is almost
surely NOT centered on the bolt. That, for a typical blade, would mean
a 5/8" bolt rather than the more likely 3/8" or 5/16" or some nearby
metric value. The blade fits over a shaft or a shoulder on a washer,
and is pinched by another washer held by the head of the bolt. This
pinch action is critical because it is what lets the blade slip when
you hit a knot, rather than throw the saw at you!
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
>+--------------------------------------///-------------------------------------+|    Chris Ice, CMfgT                 ///         Bradley University           |
>|    iceman@camelot.bradley.edu   \\\///          Peoria, IL, USA              |+----------------------------------\XX/----------------------------------------+


>		      You will be the secret agent....
>	    penetrating to the very heart of their control center.

>			          _   /|
>   				  \`o_O'  Ack Phfft!
>   				    ( )
>   				     U
From: whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: recommendation for band saw for cutting Al tubing
Date: 24 Jan 1993 00:16:58 GMT
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu

In article <laird.727719113@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu> laird@pasture.ecn.purdue.edu (Kyler Laird) writes:
>I'd like to cut some chimes out of aluminum.  (What do you think
>they'll sound like?)  I'd like to get a small (table top) band
>saw, but I can't find any blades of that size for aluminum.

	A good cut in thin aluminum is going to be impossible with
a toothed blade; instead, use a 'chop saw' with an abrasive
metal-cutting blade (and find one that is NOT incompatible with
aluminum; clogging the blade is a common problem with soft metals).  
Be aware that aluminum dust is flammable, and dispose
of it promptly... you DON'T want to make an accidental 
thermite fire.

	A simple bandsaw, like a hacksaw, will 'grab' the tubing
where an abrasive tool will not.  The cut quality is better, too.

	John Whitmore


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking