HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: smee@bristol.ac.uk (Paul Smee)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Mobile Fidelity....
Date: 16 Dec 92 09:48:29 GMT
Reply-To: P.Smee@bristol.ac.uk (Paul Smee)
Organization: University of Bristol

In article <1992Dec12.210233.16182@nntpd2.cxo.dec.com> winalski@adserv.enet.dec.com (Paul S. Winalski) writes:
>The claim is that, since gold is a more malleable material than aluminum,
>the gold foil will adhere more closely and more smoothly to the pits in the
>CD, thus providing a better surface to be read by the laser, and reducing the
>number of read errors.  As far as I know, nobody has ever conducted experiments
>to test this hypothesis.  I noticed that MFSL has stopped making this claim
>in their packaging of Ultradiscs.  

Sounds like marketing hype to me.  I could believe that explanation if
CDs were made by gluing thin metal foil to the plastic substrate, but
that's not how I understand it to work.  My impression is that the
metal coating is deposited (an atom at a time) by sputtering or vapor
deposit in vacuum, and in that context malleability shouldn't enter
into it.  

-- 
Paul Smee, Computing Service, University of Bristol, Bristol BS8 1UD, UK
 P.Smee@bristol.ac.uk - ..!uunet!uknet!bsmail!p.smee - Tel +44 272 303132
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: monitn@rebecca.its.rpi.edu (Nicholas Monitto)
Subject: Re: Cassette Deck Dilemma
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 02:16:21 GMT

logan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Logan Shaw) writes:

>In article <1722@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM> bsmith@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (ROBERT SMITH) writes:

>[ question: whether to repair / replace broken 10 year old cassette deck. ]

>>        -  I pay to get the old deck fixed.  Least cost option. (I'm broke
>>these days.)
>>
>>        -  I buy a new modestly-priced deck (maybe $300).  Is it possible to
>>get an adequate deck in this price range? What brands? Any 3-head ones?
>>
>>        -  I wait and save money (very un-American) and buy a better deck, but
>>will this be another dying medium, like LP's.  

>Personally, if I were you, I'd get the Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1.  I'm not
>sure how much they cost, but I know they're < $500.  If I remember
>correctly, it's not a 3-head one, but it performs better than many lower
>end 3-head decks.

>Perhaps you could get a used CR-1A or something for a few hundred dollars.

>I think I'd avoid the DCC option - if things work out like they have for
>every other electronic item ever, the performance and reliability of
>currently available $800 DCC decks won't compare to that of the $300 models
>that ought to be available sometime in 1995 or so.  (If the format doesn't
>fall flat on its face or something.)

If you're sold on getting a 3-head cassette deck, you can get one for around
$300. J&R Music World (NYC mail-order/store discounter) sells an Aiwa (I
think it's the ADF-800 or something similar) goes for about that much. Also
the Sony TC-K690 3-head goes for around $300. The Aiwa is a well-rated deck,
although I've never used one. The Sony K690 is a slightly revamped version of
the K620 from a year or 2 ago. A friend of mine owns one, and we've both used
it with no complaints.

I suggest you not dismiss the Nakamichi out of hand, they make excellent 
components. Audition a few decks at a dealer, and start shopping around if
you decide to buy a new one.

This is all in my opinion. I can dig up statistics and answer questions if
anyone wants.

Nick
monitn@rpi.edu

>Adios,
>  Logan
>-- 
>                              _________-_________
>                              ________---________
>                              _________-_________
>                              _________-_________
Newsgroups: rec.audio,rec.music.cd,rec.music.classical
From: daniel@netcom.com (Sam Daniel)
Subject: HELP!!  -  The Record Shelf & The Audiophile Network
Followup-To: rec.audio
Keywords: music audio
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Distribution: ba
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 20:40:32 GMT

I'm trying to find two audio related programs which should be
available here in the Bay Area:

The Record Shelf, hosted by Jim Svedja, and

The Audiophile Network, about which I have no information

Please respond with air times & station callsign (frequency too, if
possible).
-- 
*
Sam Daniel          *   UUCP (Smart):  daniel@netcom.com
Paramax Systems     *         (Dumb):  {...}!uunet!netcom!daniel
1001 W. Maude Ave.  *          Voice:  1-408-235-2661
Sunnyvale, CA 95131 *     Disclaimer:  It's only my opinion, but it's
                                       a DAMN good one...
From: bill@bilver.uucp (Bill Vermillion)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: WHY NOT USE A BIGGER DISK FOR SONY MD?
Date: 20 Dec 92 16:34:25 GMT
Organization: W. J. Vermillion - Winter Park, FL

In article <1992Dec18.223827.24443@ll.mit.edu> rhoades@ll.mit.edu (Captain Chaos) writes:
>One reason is that a 2" disk is a _lot_ smaller than the CD, so it's more
>convenient.  If you just want another 5" CD, get one of those CD cartridge
>players for the car and put your CDs in cartridges... ;)
>

And isn't this the same size disk that Sony has used in their
'electronic' still cameras - the ones that look like 35mm
reflex cameras, for about the past 5 years.    


-- 
Bill Vermillion - bill@bilver.oau.org  bill@bilver.uucp
                - ..!{peora|tous|tarpit}!bilver!bill
From: co940@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Nicholas E. Damato)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Why do people buy speakers that cost >$1000/pair ?
Date: 18 Dec 1992 17:44:52 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


in article 46047 Alex asks: Why pay more than $1000 for a pair
of speakers when you can build them yourself for less.
 
to which i reply: Build me a speaker with a bass response of +-
2db down to 20 Hz for under a thousand dollars and I'll make you
a millionaire.
 
ned.
From: bhoughto@sedona.intel.com (Blair P. Houghton)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: DCC and MD Quality
Date: 18 Dec 1992 22:29:06 GMT
Organization: Intel Corp., Chandler, Arizona
NNTP-Posting-Host: stealth.intel.com

In article <1992Dec17.192744.86020@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> jap1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (JOSEPH ALEXANDER PADULA) writes:
>It is a sad day indeed when "CD quality" is the aspiration for new media. 

Hey, it worked for "PC Compatible..."

				--Blair
				  "Uh-oh.  Here come the lawyers."
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: James Tantram <gpz750@bnr.ca>
Subject: Re: Magneplaner Question
X-Xxdate: Thu, 17 Dec 92 15:36:47 GMT
Organization: BNR Ltd.
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d9
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 15:29:39 GMT



I've just spent most of Sunday measuring a friend's Maggie II's
using the DRA MLSSA system and am now very familiar with its
woofer and tweeter panels and its "crossover".

The crossover is outrageously simple: 1st order/1st order;

The low pass is simply an inductor working into the woofer panels
6 ohm impedance (below 3 kHz); above 3 kHz, the woofer
panel Z rises to 12 ohms at 20 kHz, and the phase rotates
accordingly: this is a pretty bad x-over design for a 1st order.

The high pass is equally simple, being just a capacitor.

Anyways:

The only things that can cause you're drivers to crap out are:

1.  shorting connections across the output-less drivers;
2.  Blown fuse (you probably wired your fuse replacer incorrectly by the
way);
2.  open connections between driver section and inputs or 
    crossover and driver;
3.  fried inductors/capacitors (maybe the cap but highly unlikely
    for the inductor).
4.  blown woofer or tweeter panels.

Do not hook these speakers to your amp until you know the problem!!
Any of these cause could lead to very low impedances and resultant
amplifier damage!!

Your best bet is to do the following:

0.  make sure all connections are secure and non-shorting.  If they are go
    to step 1.
1.  Disconnect the woofer and tweeter panels from the crossovers but
remember
    the polarity to the woofer and tweeeter (woofer positive will be
connected
    to inductor, tweeter positive to capacitor : mark these wires!)
2.  Connect the woofers directly to your amp's outputs and play some
tunes.
    If any one side is dead, a woofer is cooked and your SOL.  Use
speakers
    as room dividers.  If sound comes out of both channels, you're 
    still OK.  Go to step 3.
3.  Disconnect woofers from amp.
4.  Wire a 4.7 uF bipolar electrolytic capacitor in series with the
positive
    lead on each tweeter panel.  You now have a first order high pass/
    tweeter.
5.  Connect the high passed tweeter panels to your amp.  Play tunes.
    If any one channel is dead, we're back to room dividers.  If both
    channels work you're in real good luck; the dead o/p's are either
    a connection problem or blown cross-over parts. Continue below.
6.  The inductor's probably still ok, so wire it in series between the
    woofer's positive lead and the red bananna connector an the
    back.  Wire the woofer -ve lead to the black bananna on the back.
7.  Read the value off the side of the capacitors and replace with 
    equal value poly-types.
8.  Wire tweeters back up with new caps and fuse and enjoy!!

Don't bother trying to replace either woofers or tweeters with
Magneplaner items: the manufacturer wants $100's for just one
panel!


Good luck, I know what you're going through!!

Dave ( P.S. I'm not "James": my user ID is screwed).
Organization: The American University - University Computing Center
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 13:28:16 EST
From: Ryan Scott <RSCOTT@auvm.american.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Europe power vs US Power

I a I am planning on buying a portable CD player nad battery powered speakers.
 Now the trick is that I am going to Europe next semester and I do not necessar
ily want to use batteries.  Now can I buy a DC converter over there that would
provide the same voltage as a US adaptor?  Can I neglect the cycles difference
and no have to worry about the  DC voltage being any different?????


____________________________Ryan A. Scott_____________________________________
                            Washington DC
From: bcc@tools8teradata.com (Brian Cantin)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: technics vs denon
Date: 12 Dec 92 00:06:56 GMT
Organization: NCR/Teradata Business Unit

In article <1992Dec10.104835.11018@bristol.ac.uk>, smee@bristol.ac.uk (Paul Smee) writes:
|> In article <1992Dec8.024540.6629@nmt.edu> drkhoe@nmt.edu (ONID) writes:
|> >Me, I would pick an Onkyo... of course if I had the dough... maybe a Marantz
|> >or some other high-end...
|> 
|> Is this maybe a cultural difference?  I never thought I'd see the words
|> 'Marantz' and 'high-end' used in the same sentence.

You mean again?  The 10b tuner was really the beginning of the modern high end business.

|> 
|> -- 
|> Paul Smee, Computing Service, University of Bristol, Bristol BS8 1UD, UK
|>  P.Smee@bristol.ac.uk - ..!uunet!uknet!bsmail!p.smee - Tel +44 272 303132

-- 
Brian Cantin
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: evan@top.cis.syr.edu (Evan Cheng)
Subject: For Sale: NAD 5000 CD Player
Keywords: NAD, CD Player
Organization: Syracuse University, CIS Dept.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 92 20:28:19 EST

Hi folks.

I am selling my NAD 5000 CD Player. It's a single-box British designed
player. Recommended by Stereophile (Class D, October 1992).

It has all the common features that any good CD player has. But it also
has a very nice variable output and you can remote control its volumn. I
found that connecting the variable output directly to my power-amp to be
worthwhile when I don't need any balance control. Without going through
my pre-amp, the sound is much more transparent. (Mind you, I have a very
good pre-amp - PS Audio 5.0 - so it's not saying my pre-amp is bad.)
Stereophile said that the variable output is worse than the fixed-level
output. I agree. (Yes, I connected both the variable and fixed-level
outputs to my pre-amp and tested them.) But it will take a pretty
discriminating pair of ears to detect the difference.

I also compared the sound of this machine to Rotel 955AX. My NAD5000 has
better-extended low frequencies. It's not quite as transparent as the
Rotel player, but there isn't a gross difference. Also NAD 5000 is not
quite as sensitive to the cables as Rotel does.

So the conclusion is that it's one of the best entry-level CD players.
But it's still entry-level. Therefore I am selling it and am planning to
get a Melos CD-T Bit player. Therefore you are getting a good deal.

The list price for this player is $499. I am asking $300 for it. I
bought it three months ago, so there is 21 months parts and labor
warranty left. It is (of course) in mint condition, and I have the
original manual and box for it.

Just one last thing. I am leaving for my vacation on the 24th but I'll
be back on the 13th next month (year). So send your reply as soon as
possible so we can arrange something now.

Thanks.

Evan Cheng
(evan@top.cis.syr.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: shiv@bnr.ca (Shiv Naimpally)
Subject: Re: tweaks for cheap speakers
Reply-To: shiv@bnr.ca (Shiv Naimpally)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 18:43:17 GMT

In article <12DEC199222565782@rigel.tamu.edu>, mjf9968@rigel.tamu.edu (Pi(3.143832666)) writes:
|> 	I wanted better bass response out of my el-cheapo
|> Yamaha speakers (model NS-4), so I pushed them back against
|> the wall.  (They had been sitting out about 8-10 inches from
|> it.)  Voila!  More bass.
|> 	Now, however, I'm really noticing how "mushy" the
|> bass is.  Was the bass always this mushy, and I just didn't
|> notice it before?  Or is this another effect of the speakers 
|> being closer to the wall?  And most importantly, is there 
|> anything I can do to "tighten" up the bass, without losing too 
|> much of the response, that will cost very little?  (If I had 
|> money I'd just buy some better speakers.)
|> 	In other words, I want a free lunch.
|> 	Any suggestions?
|> 
|> 	Living better through chemistry,
|> 	Mike "Pi" Freeman
|> 	MJF9968@rigel.tamu.edu

Get an equalizer. Pick up an eq with 10-12 bands per side.
You should be able to get one used fairly cheap. This will allow
you to compensate for your room acoustics and should allow you to
tighten the bass. You may be able to move the speakers back out
(if you can, get some speaker stands with spiked feet - a fairly
inexpensive tweak).

Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu (Mike S.)
Subject: Re: Speaker Advice
Organization: BITS, St. Louis, MO
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 16:53:25 GMT

mlm2@crux1.cit.cornell.edu (Mark Lee Margolis) writes:

>Anyone have any opinions on the Infinity SM112, Infinity Reference 5, 
>Infinity Reference 6, EPI 120-III, Advent Heritage, or Advent Laureate
>speakers? I am looking for a new pair of speakers and I have seen these
>and I wonder what people think/know about them.

I just auditioned some Infinity Ref-6's a few days ago.  I thought
they sounded good.  Had pretty tight bass, and imaging was decent.

Listened to Advent Heritage at another store, but I only spent a
minute or two with them.  (the SO was in a hurry :)

I wound up choosing Definitive Tech DR-7's, because the imaging was
incredible (IMO), and the low and high ends were both very good (as
good as the BP-10, again IMO).

Mike
-- 
mike%jim.uucp@wupost.wustl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: A10035@email.mot.com (Scott Lindsey)
Subject: Re: Help? Surround Sound Amplifiation Suggestions
Organization: Motorola Corp. Man. Res. Ctr.
Distribution: usa
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1992 13:46:41 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.223855.19544@speedy.aero.org>, jcd@punch (John C. Davis) writes:
> 
> I have an investment in my stereo and would like to upgrade to Dolby Pro  
> Logic without scrapping my initial investment. I would like suggestions on  
> how to add amplification to my system. (eg integrated amplifier w/ Pro  
> Logic, Pro Logic w/o amplification and seperate amplifier etc...)
> 
> My current system is:
> 
> Adcom GTP 500? Remote Control Preamplifier
> Carver 1.0t Amplifier
> B&W DM 220 Speakers
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated?
> John C Davis
> jcd@punch.aero.org
I am in a similar situation with a high end 2 channel system.
 I visited a local place and the options are limitless.
There is one system which takes and amplified source and sends part of the 
to two rear and one middle channel. It has attenuators etc. About $79, probably
the worst choice.
Then for about $150 more, you can get a 10 watt/channel in the rear system which
takes line level signals... No front and center. But you can use your TV.

For about $400, you can get a Onkyo system (I'm not excited) which drives the
rear at about 40 w/ch and the center at about 60 (I think). But I haven't
seen a system which takes a hi-fi stereo input and puts out five line level
outputs. When I do, I will probably pick it up, as long as it isn't too 
expensive. Then you can pick and choose all other amps and speakers..
>
From: gianos@leland.Stanford.EDU (Edward Alexander Gianos)
Subject: ATTN:  Technics SL-NP1 owners, I gotta question
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: us
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 08:22:36 GMT

Hey guys!

I have a Technics SL-NP1 portable CD player, and I have noticed that
it has been skipping a great deal more.  Or, should I say that I have 
noticed it has been skipping at very small bumps....

I have used this both on my desk and in my car, blah blah blah....

BUT, my question is:  Is the little 1" disc that sits on top of the CD
(it is attached to the lid) spring loaded or anything?  I am wondering
if I might have lost the spring, or if the spring was never there......
Mine just kinda flops around........

Thanks!!!

Ed
gianos@leland.stanford.edu
Newsgroups: rec.audio
From: dap@portal.vpharm.com (David A. Pearlman)
Subject: Re: Mobile Fidelity....
Organization: Vertex Pharmaceuticals, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 19:10:31 GMT

In article <jberger.66.0@novell.com> jberger@novell.com (John Berger) writes:
>In article <1992Dec14.172739.26180@oakhill.sps.mot.com> rvkl60@aus18a25.sps.mot.com (Tom Mathes) writes:
>>From: rvkl60@aus18a25.sps.mot.com (Tom Mathes)
>>Subject: Re: Mobile Fidelity....
>>
>>As for sound quality, I do notice a difference.  I listened, back
>>to back, to the standard CD issue of Pink Floyd's "Dark Side of
>>the Moon", and the MF version.  The MF version has *much* more
>>pronounced deep bass.  For example, the drum "heartbeat" at the
>>opening and ends of the disc aren't that dramatic on the standard
>>CD issue; they sound much more realistic on the MF issue.  The music
>>seemed to take on more "air" about it.  I thought I was just
>>imagining things, but I could more easily pick out individual
>>sounds/instruments/voices on the MF release than on the standard
>>release.
>>
>>Same goes for Floyd's "The Wall".  The standard CBS CD issue 
>>sounds pretty good, but the MF pressing has superior sound,
>>IMHO.  Bass again is more defined and deeper/louder, the
>>transients aren't compressed sounding, but unfortunately,
>>tape hiss is more pronounced sounding.  
>
>>If you *really* like the musical piece, buy the MF release.  To
>>me, it's worth the money if you want the best possible sound.
>
>I had the same experience with "Goodbye Yellow Brick Road" by Elton John.  
>To top it off, the standard release was on two disks, and the MFSL was on 
>one disk.  Better sound (again, more 'air' and better bass), and no disk 
>changing.  Two good reasons for this disk.  Unfortunately, once you have 
>actually trained your ears to hear the difference, you will always know that 
>it's there, so beware....you could build an expensive habit (if you haven't 
>done so already with your equipment)!
>
>John

And then, eventually, the record company may come along and remaster
the album for the benefit of all and issue it at reasonable prices. Now
you can get "Goodbye Yellow Brick Road" on a single CD, properly mastered
from the original tapes, for < $12 on sale from Polygram. 


dap


-- 
=============================================================================
    David A. Pearlman

Vertex Pharmaceuticals Inc.                     email: dap@vpharm.com
From: henry@monod.biol.mcgill.ca (Henry A. Pasternack)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: Sovtek tubes.
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:06:05 GMT
Reply-To: henry@monod.biol.mcgill.ca (Henry A. Pasternack)
Organization: SRI International


   R.G. Keen writes:

>You are right on the inductor input filters. Much better, just heavy
>and expensive.

   I am still soliciting opinions on whether the problem of filter
resonance is troublesome when using LC power supply filters.  Bear
in mind that although the resonant frequency of the filter can be
made lower than the passband of the amplifier, it is nonetheless
quite possible for the *envelope* power to vary at sub-audible
frequencies (as when a bass drum roll is played).

   Any practical advice would be appreciated.

>>    1) Is the effective 10,800 Ohm load per tube reasonable?
>
>The effective load per tube is half the plate to plate in push-pull, 2700
>ohms.

   You're right, my mistake.  Just to clarify: in a push-pull amplifier,
the effective load-line is one-quarter the plate-to-plate load impedance.
If you double up on tubes, the effective load seen per tube is twice
that value, or one-half Rp-p.  I meant to say something like "10,800 Ohm
plate-to-plate load per tube."

   Still wondering if this is reasonable.  I suspect it is because the
Williamson amplifier specified a 10k Ohm transformer with 6L6's, and
triodes, unlike pentodes, seem to get more and more linear (albeit, less
efficient) as the load impedance goes up.

-Henry
From: drkhoe@nmt.edu (ONID)
Newsgroups: rec.audio
Subject: Re: technics vs denon
Date: 15 Dec 92 04:40:55 GMT
Organization: New Mexico Tech

In article <1992Dec14.100406.23956@bristol.ac.uk> P.Smee@bristol.ac.uk (Paul Smee) writes:
>In article <Bz1u1H.KH9@ssesco.com> nau@ssesco.com (William Nau) writes:
>>In article <1992Dec10.104835.11018@bristol.ac.uk>, smee@bristol.ac.uk (Paul Smee) writes:
>>|> Is this maybe a cultural difference?  I never thought I'd see the words
>>|> 'Marantz' and 'high-end' used in the same sentence.
>>
>>Marantz has a wide variety of equipment.  THey make shit for Sears, but
>>also make some stuff that will clearly give Denon/Yamaha a run for their
>>money.
>
>Did occur to me that it might be that Marantz market different parts of
>their range on different sides of the pond.  (And, I should probably
>admit that I own a Marantz EQ551 -- gathering dust in the attic -- and
>an SP50 -- in active use.)
>
>There are certainly cultural differences as well.  For another example,
>Technics is much more highly regarded in the UK than it seems to be in
>the US.  Not that I'd tack the label high-end onto Technics either, but...
>

Marantz makes some very outstanding equipment...  They have two CD players
which are reference standard and their AX-1000 DSP is the only kind in the
world...  They also make amplifiers which are of better than mid-range
quality...

>-- 
>Paul Smee, Computing Service, University of Bristol, Bristol BS8 1UD, UK
> P.Smee@bristol.ac.uk - ..!uunet!uknet!bsmail!p.smee - Tel +44 272 303132


-- 
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Computers are bad for you, they cause brain cavities... Even Crest can't help!
"Shouryuken" - Ryu | The piper has lost his way... the mice have ran away!
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%---drkhoe@nmt.edu---%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%