HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: How to bypass cylinder hear temp. sensor?  (81' 200SX)
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1992 17:51:16 GMT

In article <413@bit.UUCP> thomas@bit.UUCP (Thomas Walter) writes:
>If I remember correctly '81 200sx used the LE Jetronic style system.

>IS there a cold start enrichment valve, that is controlled by this
>temp sensor? The later systems did not use an extra sender, or even
>the enrichment solenoid for cold start, but modified (lengthened) the
>duty cycle of the injecters.

there should be multiple sensors; there are two temp senders on
the thermostat housing in my 1987 Alfa (bosch L-jetronic), one
a cold-start sender (since disconnected due to an Alfa service
bulletin) and the other for engine management; one on the radiator
to control the electric fan; and another (the infamous `thermo-time
switch') to control the cold start injector.  these thermo-time
switches are notorious on older cars for getting strange, and causing
the cold start injector to either never enrich when cold, or open
up for long after the engine ceases to need the extra fuel.

they're also not too tough to check; you can pop the connector off
of the cold start injector, put a volt meter across the contacts,
and find out when the thermo-time switch cuts on and off.

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: roneill@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Anybody know how to remove a windshield?
Date: 4 Sep 92 11:48:21 -0300
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

This is an excellent way to remove a windshield, if not the
best.  Unless the windshield was installed improperly in
the first place, you will not be able to get it out
otherwise.

The other method that I have seen used by people in the
business is the use of large utility knives (not the small
ones used in hobbies and crafts).  These are particularily
good, if the windshield was installed using silicone, rather
than the traditional sealer.

It is definately worth the savings.

Good luck.
In article <a9RK02ms20VH01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>, msl30@ccc.amdahl.com (Michael Lucash) writes:
> In article <183405@pyramid.pyramid.com> pshyvers@pyrnova.pyramid.com (Peter Shyvers) writes:
>>In article <Bu0FKI.4wB@news.cso.uiuc.edu> emgg1058@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Matt Gaertner) writes:
>>>
>>>
>>>As the title says, Does anybody know how to remove a windshield?
>>>
>>>Recently while loading some lumber into my car, a board fell and cracked my 
>>>windshield. It has a nice spiderweb right in the center, about 9" in diameter.
>>>The repair shop says that if I can provide one, it would only cost ~$55 for 
>>>installation. My local junkyard is filled with escorts ( mine is an '84 ) but 
>>>I've heard that removing one intact is pretty tricky.
>>>
>>
>>When I replaced the windshield on my wife's old (Mitsubishi) Dodge Colt
>>(maybe a '78?) *removing* the windshield was a bigger pain than installation.
>>I remember sitting in the passenger compartment *kicking* out the windshield...
>>
> When we had to replace the windshield on one of our cars we used a length of
> piano wire and two blocks as handles. We put the wire between the glass and
> window frame and used it like a saw to cut through the glue.  It took a while
> and a little messy but we were able to get the window out without breaking it.
> 
> It might help if you took off some of the interior trim pieces around the  
> windshield so they won't get glue all over them.  
> 
> 
> 
>               Hope this helps
>                    Mike
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,ca.environment,sci.engr.mech
From: tylerh@cco.caltech.edu (Tyler R. Holcomb)
Subject: Electric cars get a jump start
Keywords: automotive, manufacturing, atmosphere, environment,
       electrical power, energy        
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 18:15:06 GMT


REPRINTED FROM CLARINEWS (UPI) WITHOUT PERMISSION

>From: clarinews@clarinet.com (UPI)
>Newsgroups: clari.local.california


	BURBANK, Calif. (UPI) -- A consortium of public and private
organizations has been awarded $6 million in state and federal grants to
develop a California-based electric vehicle industry and infrastructure
by 1994.
	Calstart officials announced Tuesday that the group will receive a $4
million federal grant and a $2 million state grant to develop advanced
electric vehicle parts and build a statewide infrastructure of charging
stations, service and battery centers within two years.
	The grants also will help the group to develop an advanced electric
bus and mass transit program.
	Officials believe the program will help transform the state's
struggling defense and aerospace industry into an advanced
transportation center.
	``California has always been a technological leader,'' Rep. Howard
Berman said. ``This grant will help us retain that leadership as well as
gain a foothold in the rapidly growing vehicle industry.''
	Calstart was formed last December to help the state compete in the
world market through advanced transportation. Officials believe the
program will generate more than 55,000 new jobs by the year 2000.
	The electric vehicle industry also will play a critical role in
meeting air quality standards, said Charles Imbrecht, chairman of the
California Energy Commission.
	The consortium consists of more than 40 public and private agencies
and businesses, including Southern California Edison, Pacific Gas &
Electric, Hughes Aircraft Co., Lockheed Corp., the South Coast Air
Quality Management District, the Los Angeles Department of Water and
Power and the Bay Area Rapid Transit District.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tyler Holcomb   *   "Remember, one treats others with courtesy and repsect *
tylerh@juliet   *   not because they are gentlemen or gentlewomen, but     *
  caltech.edu   *   because you are."  - paraphrased from Garth Henrichs   *
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kent@lightnin.Columbia.NCR.COM (Kent Richardson)
Subject: IROC smokes on start
Organization: NCR Corp, E&M-Columbia, Columbia, SC
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 21:01:08 GMT

Just wondering if any other Camaro owners have the same problem I do with the
car smoking a lot at startup. The amount it smokes seems to increase relative
to how long the car has sat without running(i.e. next day-smokes a little, 
after a week-smokes a LOT). I was wondering what this is and if anything can
be done to stop it. I think it may be dirty injectors?? The engine is a 
305 cubic in. (5.0L) with Tuned Port Injection. If it is'nt the injectors I 
don't feel like getting a $50 injection purge. 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: morris@mksol.dseg.ti.com (jerry a morris)
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
Organization: Texas Instruments
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 18:11:14 GMT


In article <1992Aug26.134956.25235@mlb.semi.harris.com>, jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
|>  Check the intake manifold bolts and retorque if necessary. I got roped into 
|> fixing up a neighbor's 305 Z-28 a while back and had to chase down a big-time
|> oil burning/fouling problem. Turned out that the intake bolts were not even 
|> 10 lb-ft tight. You could see bubbles coming out between the intake and the 
|> head, and who knows what going in. There was oil being drawn in from the valley
|> splash.
|> 
|>  Worn valve guides/seals is the other Usual Suspect. More work to get to 
|> though.
|> 
|>  
|> -- 
|> ##########################################################################
|> #Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
|> #living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
|> #sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#




What color is the smoke? if it is blue and is only there when you start the
engine it sounds like valve guide seals. 

If it is black then sounds like way rich mixture air/fuel mixture.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Cleaning spark plugs??
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 92 09:30:57 GMT

I have read that you should never use anti-seize on exhaust bolts, because it
forms an acid of some sort at high temps.  I don't worry about it, cause I 
replace all exhaust hardware with stainless (saves LOTS of time down the
road), has anyone else heard of this high-temp acid forming property of anti-
seize?


--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 01:18:25 -0500

 > let you know.
 >
 > Ethan, I wonder what you would consider acceptable mileage
 > and if you
 > haven't been getting it out of your engines then I wonder
 > why.
 >
 > (Yes, that's intentionally a little provocative.... nothing
 > personal,
 > I just wanted to spur some discussion on the expected vs
 > actual
 > mileage among the net readers.)
 
1st car-67 ford falcon--164,000 miles--no known engine work
2nd car-70 chevy impala- 145,000 miles--bad cam, several cyl. 
dead...still ran though:>
3rd car-73 plymouth fury I ex new jersey state police investigators 
car--135,000 worked great, sold it
4th car--74 datsun 260z--loads of trouble, but the basic engine was 
fine--sold at ~125,000
5th car-79 honda civic cvcc--needed head job at 50k, needed overhaul 
at 110,000 wore out at 130,000
6th car-vw type 3 squareback--needed heads because the valves were 
burnt, blew trans after 1 year no clutch 150,000
7th car-77 vw scirrocco- crashed it but no engine trouble
8th car-79 vw dasher gas--best car I ever owned--170,000 miles and 
the sherriff took it to satisfy a lein--I was gonna take the oil 
filter off and seize it but could not do it.
9th car-78 ford fiesta-150,000 or so--it just got real ratty and 
I did not want to spend money on it because my sister gave me the 
next car--no engine trouble though
10 car-now-80mercury zepher-103,000 miles on it engine is ok
 
what is common here--I drive fast--70-80
I cahnge oil with castrol or valvolene and a name brand(fram, 
motorcraft, a/c,purolator, lazorlite, or mann filter every time--
 
I use 20-50 oil most of the time
almost no engine trouble--all my cars are basicly good cars that 
were in ok shape when I bought em(all are used) and were taken care 
of but run hard...the only one that was no good was the honda...little 
piece of shit...the fiesta about the same model year as the honda 
was 100% better
Just take care'of a good car and it will care for ya... 
remeber kaess' rules
1)6 is better then 4
2)fi is better then carb
3)electronic ign is better then points
4)no turbo is better then turbo
5)CHANGE THE OIL AND THE AIR FILTERS
From: gridley@toe.CS.Berkeley.EDU (Frank Gehrke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Diesel "algae"
Date: 3 Sep 1992 03:47:46 GMT
Organization: University of California at Berkeley
Distribution: na
NNTP-Posting-Host: toe.cs.berkeley.edu

I'd second the reccomendation for Redline. I've got a Mercedes 240D with
140k and a Scout Diesel with 170k+ and have found Redline to reduce smoking
nailing(that noise when the engine is cold), improved milage and may help
with the high sulphur fuels found in some areas (Southern California).

There are some other products which can be used if the algae has already
gotten established. Redline isn't the greatest for this.  I'd strongly
reccomend some sort of add on filtration system (RACOR) or equivalent to 
help in water removal. Most diesels have a fuel return line going back to the 
tank from the injectors so the filter can help keep down the algae and
certainly prevent a very expensive repair should the injector pump become 
contaiminated.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vonb@iitmax.iit.edu (Robert Von Borstel)
Subject: Malm's Wax
Keywords: car wax
Organization: Illinois Institute of Technology
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 92 17:20:02 GMT

I want to get a good wax for my car.  From what I've seen,
having 'carnauba' is a must.  Anyone have any experience with
Malm's wax?  They advertise in R&T, C&D, etc.

$31 - wax,  $49 wax+polish

Any other recommendations?  Point me to a faq if this is
already answered.

Thanx.

Robert Von Borstel                . Internet:vonb@iitmax.iit.edu               
Illinois Institute of Technology  . NeXTmail:vonb@fred.iit.edu  
Academic Computing Center           (312) 567 5962
10 West 31St Street   Chicago, Ill  60616


-- 
Robert Von Borstel                . Internet:vonb@iitmax.iit.edu               
Illinois Institute of Technology  . NeXTmail:vonb@fred.iit.edu  
Academic Computing Center           (312) 567 5962
10 West 31St Street   Chicago, Ill  60616
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dougr@microsoft.com (Doug Rosencrans)
Subject: Acceleration concerns with '93 RX-7
Date: 28 Aug 92 18:27:55 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.

O.K. folks, I need some technical advice on what is acceptable performance on the 
new '93 RX-7.  Yes, I've had the touring version for 4 months.  Now the questions:

     For those that have had the opportunity to drive one, what was the performance
     like in 1-3?  How was acceleration from 1 to 2?  Could you "feel" the torque
     of both turbos?  What was max. mph related to rpms for 1 and 2?

I am asking these questions, because this is what I *think* that I am experiencing:

      In 1, when I step on the accelerator it doesn't seem that I am getting max. 
      boost from both turbos.  It is like only have one turbo and then just rpms
      and no acceleration.  This usually happens around 3000rpms.  For a car like
      this, I feel I should be able to take it to 30 or 40 in 1 before red lining?

      I get the same "feel" in 2.  In 3-5 I feel that I have all the power in the
      world.  I've had the RX-7 up over 150 with pedal to spare....

Before I take the car in, am I dreaming or what?  I don't want the mechanic to look
at me like - what you've got to be kidding.....

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

Dougr

Signature for rent or lease.......
From: jsw@umiacs.umd.edu (Jeff Webber)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 4 Sep 92 17:46:32 GMT
Article-I.D.: mimsy.60094
Organization: UMIACS, University of Maryland, College Park, MD 20742

In article <Bu274D.2uy.1@cs.cmu.edu> rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:

>Okay, so you can't reduce the risk of your car being stolen to zero.  Perhaps
>it's time to take a different tack.  How about increasing the risk taken by
>the prospective thief in attempting to steal your car?

You can go to jail for harming someone that is trying to steal your car
or your car stereo.   If the person dies you would probably be charged
with manslaughter or even murder.

There are just way too many lawyers in this country.

-- 
Jeff Webber /   U of Maryland Institute for Advanced Computer Studies
path: uunet!mimsy!jsw  phone (301)-405-6746 jsw@umiacs.umd.edu  DoD #243
1965 Ford Mustang Convertible                     1988 Honda Hawk GT 650
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: harling@pictel.com (Dan Harling)
Subject: Re: Pressurize Oil Before Starting ?
Organization: PictureTel Corporation
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:30:58 GMT

In article <1992Aug25.194059.24000@tandem.com> norcott_bill@tandem.com  (Bill Norcott) writes:
>Mechanical wear is only one of many kinds of oil-related failures,
>and oil-related failures are only one cause of engine failure. What
>about the possibility of internal corrosion, cracked heads, mechanical
>stress, broken timing belts, etc which can all wreck an engine?  The
>biggest cause of mechanical wear is on cold starts, that's the source
>of the claim that most of the wear is in the first 10 seconds.  On a
>warm start this is not the case, there is hardly any wear.  It's like
>saying heart disease is the #1 cause of death so if we cured heart 
>disease we'd live a thousand years.
>
>Instead of paying $560 to pump the cold oil around, you can get an
>engine block heater for less than $20 that heats the engine and the
>oil before you start the car.

The reason that less wear occurs on a "warm start" that a "cold start"
is *not* the fact that all the parts are nice and warm, but the fact
that there is still some oil left on the critical surfaces.  The longer
you leave an engine without running it, the more time the oil has to
drain back to the bottom of the oil pan.

I suppose a block heater would reduce the stress on parts due to
temperature fluctuations, and maybe help it run more smoothly when you
first start it, but it would do less than a pre-oiler for saving the
main bearings.
____________________________________________________________________________
Daniel A. Harling                        (harling@pictel.com)
PictureTel Corp.             Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
Peabody, MA  01960                 PictureTel, but they ought to be!
From: tmcdonal@ringer.cs.utsa.edu (Tom McDonald)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Bypassing head temp. sensor
Date: 27 Aug 92 04:22:43 GMT
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio

Thanks to all who responded.  I really want to avoid drilling into the
head or block itself, so what I'm going to try is to use liquid steel to
cement the sensor to the outside of the head.  It'll take just a little
longer to heat up, but should still work.  If not, I'll probably use the
dash switch idea and have to live with that during startup.  I'm on kind
of a time constraint to get this running, so I don't have a lot of time to
fool around with it.  I hope to start it this weekend and will post if 
it worked or not.  Thanks again.
						-Tom
-- 
Okay, one more time.  This is your brain. (egg)
This is your brain on drugs. (egg in frying pan)
Any Questions?
"Yeah, can I have mine scrambled?"
From: v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: IROC smokes on start
Date: 28 Aug 92 01:47:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Aug27.222855.14496@koko.csustan.edu>, james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy) writes...
>Its either fuel leaking past injectors or water build up somewhere that
>is coming out as steam. Or it could be a million other things!

neither......its oil trust me I had both manifestations 
of this (valve guide leakage and oil return-line leakage)...


definitely not water...


Shawn E. Thompson                         | Project Engineer/Mgr  (716)891-3375
v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu             | Leica, Incorporated
University @ Buffalo                      | PO Box 123
Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
"Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
                                                               --- Meatloaf
From: lockwood@acidqueen.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Lockwood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM 2.8L V6 oil leaks
Date: 25 Aug 1992 21:40:39 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.146.12.28

In article <1684E9450.R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu> R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu writes:
>>
>> The main problem is Chevy didn't machine the gasket surface, like
>>practically everyone else in the world.  They expected the wimpy narrow
>>little gasket to seal against the rough casting.  Brrp.  Wrong.  Also,
>> V8s tend to pump enough oil to the top end for the gasket line to
>>be below the oil level once they've built up a good layer of crud
>>blocking the oil return drilling at the back of the head.
>>
> 
> 
>    News to me.  On *ALL* the chevies I've had apart - and Fords
>and Chryslers - I have *NEVER* seen this "unmachined gasket surface".

It's there.  On every iron head, small block Chevy V8 I've ever seen.

You may want to take another look.


Regards,

Jim Lockwood - KM6NK
notjim@acidqueen.eng.sun.com
From: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu (David Kardelis- I am the NRA)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Draining gas tank
Date: 2 Sep 92 17:21:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Btyo8J.8yu
Reply-To: dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu
Organization: High Energy Physics, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign


	I have to drain a gas tank. The car has been sitting for several years
before I acquired it. The car started right up when I bought it, 
but after starting it several times. It was unable to start. 
I had noticed a leak o=in one of the gaskets on the carb so I 
took it off and replaced all the gaskets. Inside the
carb was all orange with varnish I assume. I cleaned it out and reassembled
it. 
	I now feel I probably should drain the tank and flush the lines,
maybe I should just replace the lines. It is a 73. But to the tank any 
shorcuts on draining it? Also what do I do with the gas I take out.
I do not want to just dump it. Are there recycling centers for gas? Could it
be used in something else like a lawnmower?  Also is there any product
in particular I should use after the tank is drained to remove any remaining 
varnish in the tank? What should I use to flush the lines? Fresh gas?
				thanks dave
==========================================================================
   David Kardelis		| I am the NRA-NRA Life
   Gradual Student in Physics   |
   Univ. of Ilinois		|	Looking for a new .SIG
   dak@uihepa.hep.uiuc.edu	|
   217-333-0505			|
Not necessarily the views of the ISSC or the UI At UC
==========================================================================
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:12193 rec.autos.sport:9557 rec.autos:21416
From: roneill@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos.sport,rec.autos
Subject: MAIL-ORDER COMPANIES FOR AUTO PARTS
Date: 4 Sep 92 10:16:40 -0300
Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

I want to purchase an overhaul kit and some other parts
by mail order from the U.S.  The one that I am currently
considering is Performance Automotive Wholesale Inc. in 
California, as advertised in "Circle Track" and "Stock
Car Racing".  Does anyone have any experience with this 
place?  What are the extra charges to ship to a 
Canadian destination?

Do any of the netters have any other favorite mail-order
places?  I am on the East Coast and would prefer if there
was something closer, and reputable.

Any info would be appreciated.

P.S.  The rebuild kit is for a Ford 250 ci, so some high
      performance mail-order shops may not carry parts
      for these types of engines.

Thanks,

Bob O'Neill <RONEILL@ADM.DAL.CA or @AC.DAL.CA>
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hruska@bnr.ca (Bob Hruska P840)
Subject: Re: How Fast is a Top Fueler???
Originator: hruska@brtph380
Organization: bnr
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 13:13:56 GMT

From article <3hcn7z@dixie.com>, by jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond):
> rudis+@cs.cmu.edu (Rujith S DeSilva) writes:

> 
>>What are these cars like, anyway?  I've never heard of them, or anything
>>remotely like them.
> 
> I'm not sure words can completely describe these cars.  You just gotta
> see 'em to appreciate 'em.  Watch for an NHRA Nationals near you.
> 

Or would that be "You just gotta FEEL 'em to appreciate 'em?"

-- 
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| Bob Hruska         DoD #1982 | email: hruska@bnr.ca                        |
| BNR Inc. - XPM Base Software |USmail: 35 Davis Drive                       |
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