HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:50:02 GMT
Article-I.D.: boi.C1H8FF.BG0
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Steven J Orlin (sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu) wrote:
: 
: In article <1993Jan25.121339.15258@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu> dwsmall@miavx1.acs.mu
: ohio.edu (Derek 'Enzo' Small) writes:
: >
: >Someone asked about a TH700 a while back and no one else offerd anything
: >yet so if you're reading... The TH700 is basically an electronically
: >controled version of the TH250 but for front wheel drive vehicles.
: >
: 
: Gee. you sound so convincing I'm almost afraid to say this: When did the
: Corvette become a front wheel drive vehicle?

Well, you just select "R" on the gear selector, turn your head and
mash the gas.  Turning is real quick, but for fwd, it'll really 
move! ;-)

Really now, the THM-700R4 is so large, I'm suprised that it would fit
into a fwd application!

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /     "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_______ 
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \       Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  / \  \___/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/   \_______/
From: rdi@cci632.cci.com (Rick Inzero)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Keywords: A-I-R PUMP, CHEVY
Date: 26 Jan 93 20:21:42 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Northern Telecom, LTD, Rochester, NY

In article <m_j35=r@rpi.edu> maessm@rpi.edu writes:
>
>The air pump does exactly what its name implies - it pumps air!  :)

Nobody's posted this yet, so here goes:
AIR stands for Air Injection Reactor (system).  It was introduced on
Chevys in 1967, mandatory for California cars, optional on others.

>Its purpose is to pump air into the exhaust system, either into the exhaust
>manifold or into the catalytic converter, to make the converter work efficiently.

At that time, it injected air into the exhaust manifold, very
close to each exhaust valve, so that the exhaust gas would 
continue to burn for a while once it left cylinder, reducing exhaust
emissions.  There were no catalytic converters at this time to worry 
about.

On 1967 AIR equipped cars, the carburetor, air cleaner, and exhaust
manifolds, and other miscellaneous parts were different than on 
non-AIR cars, and the factory tune up specs were also different 
(different idle speed, etc.).  Whether or not the car had AIR was also 
noted in the engine block code, which showed the engine assembly plant, 
date, cu in, and transmission as well.

---
Rick Inzero, President of the "Put The High Beam Switch Back On The Damn 
				Floor, Where It Belongs Society"
						rochester!cci632!rdi
Northern Telecom LTD				uunet!ccicpg!cci632!rdi
Rochester, NY					rdi@cci.com

-REAL cars have:
	vent windows
	side air vents down by your feet
	the high beam switch on the floor (the way nature intended)
	rear-passenger side windows that roll ALL THE WAY down
	doors that unlock with the ignition key
	doors that lock only when you hold the outside button in
	an engine with over 340 lb.-ft. of torque
	an engine with a NAME, like "Turbo-Jet" or "Super Commando"
	available *optional* power steering; powerful enough to
	  enable you to parallel park using only 2 fingers
	  :-)  :-)  :-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Olds 455 swapping and stuff
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:53:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I'm looking for swap info on Olds 455 blocks.  Basically I'm
-> wondering if the block is physically similar to Pontiac and Buick 455
-> blocks...ie to the engine mounts line up and are the width/head
-> clearances similar?

 It's approximately the same size.  The 455 Olds will fit in the
Chevelle and late Nova when using Olds engine mounts (all the mount
stands are different - my brother's 455 Pontiac powered Nova used mounts
for a Ventura with a 350 Pontiac - $42 brand new from the Pontiac
dealer)   It will also fit in a Camaro or Firebird - the '70-'81 Trans
Am came with the 403 Olds, so all you need are the TA mounts.


-> the Olds 455 block is the same size as the 350 block?!?!?! This
-> sounds a bit far fetched but is it true?

 There are two deck heights:

low deck:  260, 307, 330, 350, 403
high deck: 400, 425, 455

 You can identify them by:

cam cover almost flush with intake manifold valley ridge surface on low
deck blocks.  High deck blocks have about an inch step up to the ridge
surface, plus a raised hump offset to the passenger side. (for no known
reason)

 A high deck ought to go any place a low deck will; if it'll fit in a
Nova/Omega it will fit in a Firebird/Camaro.


-> Anyone have any experience swapping Olds 350 and 455 blocks?

 I put a 350 Olds in a friend's '68 Ford pickup.  It was about the
easiest engine swap I ever performed - a slight mod on the Ford
brackets, moved the crossmember back, and it fell right in.  Even the
shift linkage lined up!


-> Any comments would be appreciated...and any offers if anyone wants
-> the engine/ tranny/etc....its still in a car and running....

 It so happens Doug is looking for a 455 to replace the 350 in his
pickup.  You want to email a price?
                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: donald@sq.sq.com (Donald Teed)
Subject: Re: My Excel Squeals
Organization: SoftQuad Inc., Toronto, Canada
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 16:09:00 GMT

hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song) writes:

>mclk@troi.cc.rochester.edu (Richard Pace) says:
> >
>>I have a 1989 Hyundai Excel (standard 4 speed) that squeals loudly when I 
>>start it in the cold and also as I accelerate at low speeds.  I brought
>>it into the shop and they replaced a serpentine belt.  It didn't seem to 
>>help since it still squeals.  Any suggestions? 
>>
>>Ric Pace
>>mclk@troi.cc.rochester.edu

>What!   So you've got the same problem.   Please read my article about
>screeching mazda 323.

>So, it's not a serpentine belt.  By the way, it looks like the squealing
>does not happen all the time since you took away from the shop without
>noticing the squealing.   My mazda does that too.    I cannot bring it
>to  a service shop since I am sure that they will change something without
>really fixing the problem.   So I am still waiting until the problem
>gets a lot worse.  However, it does not seem to get worse since it started
>two years ago.   But very annoying.

If it is the sound I am thinking of, it is caused by salt
dried on your disc brakes and can be fixed by a wash.
There is a certain part of the brake which is always in contact
with the disc, I have heard, and so the sound continues to be made
whether you are coasting, stoping, or whatever.  If the tone of the
sound is related to the speed the vehicle is going, rather than what rate
your engine is rotating, then it is related to your wheels and
not your engine.  If the sound happens when you are stationary,
then what I am talking about does not apply.

--Donald Teed
From: exuptr@exu.ericsson.se (Sunbird a la 400ci)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevy small block ID???
Date: 21 Jan 93 21:28:49 GMT
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson.
              Any opinions expressed are strictly those of the
              user and not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article <1993Jan19.191234.19257@mcnc.org> brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks) writes:
>From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
>Subject: Re: Chevy small block ID???
>Date: 19 Jan 93 19:12:34 GMT

>In article <4976.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)  writes:
>>
>>-> Chevy V8s have a flat spot on the block in front of the right head,
>>-> about even with the block/head mating surface. Scrape the crud away
>>-> and get the engine serial # off that spot, and cross refernce that #.
>>
>> Not all Chevy V8s have numbers there, though.  Of the four I have on
>>hand, two have nothing at all stamped on the number pad.
>>   

>Often times this number gets shaved off, either accidently, or intentionally.
>If you look real close, you can see that it's about even with the top of
>the block assembly.If the top of the block is milled during a rebuild, it's
>very easy to shave the #s right off.

I've got a Chevy small block that doesn't have this appendage.  Is there an
alternate location for it?  Also, how can I tell I'm not really dealing with 
a Pontiac?
 -----------Visit the SOUNDING BOARD BBS 214-596-2915, a Wildcat! BBS--------
 ObQuotes:
 "Quick to judge, quick to anger, slow to understand..."
 "Ignorance and prejudice, and fear go hand-in-hand..."

    Patrick Taylor, Ericsson Network Systems
    exuptr@exu.ericsson.se                    "Don't let the .se fool you"
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:22:15 GMT

In article <Jan.22.12.43.11.1993.25844@trident.usacs.rutgers.edu> jcborkow@trid
ent.usacs.rutgers.edu (Jason Borkowsky) writes:


>kits) for the TH400)). I know there's also a TH700 transmission,
>
>                                                 Jason


When you said the TH350 holds 23.5 quarts, didn't you mean pints?



I've also heard of this TH700 as a late model transmission, or a newer
one; whatever you want to call it.

Does anyone out there know anything about it?
I'm interested as to how it compares with the 350 & 400.
I imagine more 'heavy-duty' or 'performance oriented' for those who don't
like 'heavy-duty'.




 steve
-- 
"If you love someone, set them free......If they don't come back....hunt them
 down and kill them."
-=sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu                 -???
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: TH350 vs. TH400
From: pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer)
Date: 26 Jan 93 13:08:15 CST

sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:

>In article <Jan.22.12.43.11.1993.25844@trident.usacs.rutgers.edu> jcborkow@trid
>ent.usacs.rutgers.edu (Jason Borkowsky) writes:


>I've also heard of this TH700 as a late model transmission, or a newer
>one; whatever you want to call it.

>Does anyone out there know anything about it?
>I'm interested as to how it compares with the 350 & 400.
>I imagine more 'heavy-duty' or 'performance oriented' for those who don't
>like 'heavy-duty'.

The TH700 is used by Holden here in Oz. It's a four speed, mechanically
controlled box which, I believe, is based on the 350 or 400. Apparently
it is used in the Corvette over there??

I would be interested to know whether it is similar in size to the TH350, 
and if it would bolt straight up to a motor in place of the 350. (cogs
whirring in brain as he thinks about the possibilities)

Cheers,
Paul.
-- 
Paul Heuer           | Phone  : +61 8 259 6453 | Air Operations Division - DSTO
pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au  | FAX    : +61 8 259 5507 | PO Box 1500, Salisbury
                                               | South Australia, 5108
                                               |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: doug@vatmom.COM (Doug G. Miller)
Subject: Re: Tire recommendation needed
Organization: The Vatmom Organisation
Distribution: na 
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 13:07:07 GMT

In <1993Jan19.134731.12611@pixel.kodak.com> berry@ssd.kodak.com (Mike Berry) writes:

>I own a Ford probe that has some eagle GA's on it that are virtually bald.
>Im looking to replace them, but I'm not sure I want GA's again, because
>I felt they had lousy wet/snow traction.   I was considering GT +4
>and some guy at the local Goodyear shop reccomended a tire by Cooper
>That supposedly had good traction.   ANyway, the size is 205 60 15  H rated.

The Feb '93 issue of Consumer Reports has tire evaluations in it; you 
might get some ideas there.  They don't include performance tires, but
your old tires are in the tests (fared below average during non-ABS wet 
braking and general handling).  The Goodyear Aquatred was the highest
rated, however they only rated "touring" tires.  The GT +4 is in the 
performance class, several steps up, and if you can spend the money it 
probably would do well.

It's always a hard guess, though, because suspension systems are designed
literally from the tire up.  Pick up some of the consumer automotive
and SCCA racing magazines at your local performance shop and see
what the autocrossers and unmodified road racers are putting on the
Probe.
-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Doug Miller                         | We were apes only yesterday.
Atlanta, GA     doug@vatmom.COM     | Give us time! 

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Doug Miller                         | We were apes only yesterday.
Atlanta, GA     doug@vatmom.COM     | Give us time!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Engine options 302 or 351?
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:17:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> I Have A high mileage FORD 302 in my '84 BRONCO that is getting
-> tired. When it goes, I'd like to either: 1)Rebuild the current engine
-> (302) or 2)Replace the 302 with a 351. I've heard that's that's a
-> straight boltup.

 Take a look at the oil pan on the 302, then compare it to the one on
the 351.  There are two 351 pans available - the front sump one and the
rear sump one, at least in passenger cars.  If either 351 pan will work,
you're home free, other than dipstick quibbles.  (if your 351 is an
early model, and you use a late rear sump pan, you'll have to braze a
piece of 3/8 brake line to the side of the pan as a dipstick tube;
otherwise all is fine)

 If the Bronco uses a special weird pan, you'll have to see if the 351
was ever available in the Bronco.  351 and 302 oil pans do NOT
interchange.  Nor do distributors or harmonic balancers, so make sure
you get the whole motor instead of semi-stripped like the junkyards like
to do.

 Everything else should be OK - carb, throttle linkage, exhaust
manifolds, etc will bolt right up.  If you have a crossover pipe
connecting the manifolds, you'll have to hacksaw it to allow for the
extra space between the heads; then just have a muffler shop patch a
piece in when it's mobile.
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GOODYEAR EAGLE GT'S/The Tire Rack -- HELP!
Date: 26 Jan 93 00:34:57 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: na
Organization: rutgers university

In article <1993Jan24.223653.25372@gandalf.ca>, began@gandalf.ca (Brian
Egan) wrote:
> 
> In <1jqjbcINNe72@MINERVA.CIS.YALE.EDU> stansbury-travis@yale.edu (Travis Stansbury) writes:
> 
> >I'm in desperate need of help.  I know next to nothing about tires (they
> >are rubber, right?).  However, I need new ones for my '86 CRX Si, and I
> >want neither crappy tires nor tremendous expense.  SOOOO... I noticed
> >that a mail order place called "The Tire Rack" (South Bend, IN) had a
> >special on Goodyear Eagle GT's in the right size for my car.... $66
> >(incl shipping).  So, is this a reputable company?  Are these good tires
> >(they are HR.)?  Could I do better for the money?  

      The Tire Rack is great. Just ordered another pair of tires from them
today. Thay usually ship them right away so the tires get to you within 5
days. They also have great prices.

    



James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu
 1990 GTi 8v

 Sub Umbra Petri
From: sstout@yukon.EBay.Sun.COM (Steve Stout, Mgr. Sales Negotiations)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: air pump
Date: 22 Jan 1993 18:11:22 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: sstout@yukon.EBay.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: yukon.ebay.sun.com

>  Or if your state doesn't have an inspection law, and you are not too
>concerned about being legal, you can just take the damn thing off and
>get a shorter fan belt, and plug the holes in the exhaust manifold

If you are going to do this, please notice that the threads on the fittings
into the exhaust manifold are pipe threads, not automotive.  ie they
taper.  Plug the holes with brass plumbing fitting and you will be
able to put the air pump back when the enviro-nazis get to you-
and they will, eventually.

'Steve

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!)
Subject: Re: MG carb question
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 07:50:46 GMT

hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann), though his/her name field con-
flicts with his/her signature, writes:

>I am about to come into possession of a 1974 MGB.  I understand they
>have some sort of dual side draft carb on them.  Can anyone give me an
>opinion on how hard these are to tune to each other?  I can rebuild any
>Holley you put in front of me, but I was sort of intimidated by this MG
>carb.  

>Any thoughts would be appreciated

From the proud (and at times cranky and bleeding) owner of a 1974 MG Midget,
here's what to expect:
	The mixture, through those funny pot things, varies infinitely by
	manifold vacuum and airflow.
	Therefore, to change the mixture curve, you must change the metering
	needle.
	There is *only* *one* jet!  This came as something of a relief to me,
	having spent God-knows-how-much time adjusting the jets on the twin
	Solexes of a BMW.
	The only adjustments that can be made without major work are idle
	speed and overall mixture.

Overall, the SU's are a little more prone to air leaks than lesser carbs, and
adjustment can prove a divergent process, so don't screw with it too much.

Balancing the two carbs to one another is pretty easy; you can buy, for a
relatively small sum, a tool that measures airflow at each carb intake.  As-
suming uniform compression, the airflow at idle should be the same.  When the
engine is off idle, you will learn to tell the symptoms of out-of-sync carbs
pretty damn fast.  It runs wrong, but in a distinct manner.

You should join the British cars mailing list by sending mail to:
british-cars-request@autox.team.net.  They're most helpful.  Also, call Vic-
toria British Motors at 1-800-255-0088.  They are most helpful and have largely
good parts prices.

Overall, though the SU's are funky compared to "real" carburetors (ho ho ho,
guess which existed first?) they work pretty well once adjusted, and once ad-
justed tend to STAY adjusted (unlike certain damn German carbs....)

But if the SU's are just too much, the consensus seems to be that you will get
better performance out of a big Weber or two; the conversion is a little out
of this college student's budget at about US$500.

Feel free to email me with questions.

Cheers!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael T. Chaffee       | mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu  |  ______    
"It has been said - mostly by illiterates and conserv-|  \    /   HATE
atives - that the belief in God is at the base of the |   \  /  is not a
American system, and that the United States is a prod-|    \/  FAMILY VALUE
uct of Christian piety."  -  Leonard Peikoff          |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dannyb@panix.com (Daniel Burstein)
Subject: sporadic oil burning, 88 voyager
Summary: 88 plymouth voyager w mitsubishi engi burning oil
Keywords: autos, oil, chrysler
Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC
Distribution: us
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 00:12:53 GMT

I have an 88 plymouth voyager, extended version (now marketd as "grand
voyager") with a curious problem.  at random times, it starts puffing out
clouds of buring oil. At other times, it stops.

This does NOT seem related to engine temp or time.  It can happen when
starting, or not.  It can stop after 30 seconds, or continue on. 
Somwtimes it will just begin when I pull up to a light, other times it
occurs when I'm driving at 30mph.  (Can't tell if it happens when I'm at
highway speeds, too much dispersion).

PVC is ok, no oil in air filter, gasket was cracked, but replaced with no
change.

suggestions from the mechanics:
  1) that the valve guides are worn
  2) that the oil wiper piston (? -explanation to follow) is getting stuck.

re: 2: I didn't realize this, but they tell me that there is an additional
piston element which kind of scrapes the wall to bring any residual oil
back down.  if this gets stuck, then oil remains in teh upper chamber and
ignites, etc.

so my questions to the greater NETLAND:

do either of these make any sense as possible dx?  the problem I face is
that getting confirmation of either diagnoses requires major engine
disassembly, and that's before any treatment.

a few other points: no loss of power, and no major change in mileage (I had
been getting something like 26 mpg, now 25 or so.)

compression tests performed by different mechanics have been up to specs.

---------

finally, the last mechanic suggested (no pressure, offered it as a
-possible- help) a heavy duty chemical fluch during the last oil change. 
it -seemed- to reduce the oil smoking from, say, 75% of the time to 25%. 
If I'm not imagining the improvement, does this really mean anything?

thanks

dannyb@panix.com

engine is the mitsubishi v-6, used for only 1.5 model years.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nau@ssesco.com (William Nau)
Subject: Not a bra
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 14:30:39 GMT

Ok, here's my case (may this should be in rec.autos, but I'm here anyway).
I drive my 1992 Probe into the city every day.  Sand and shit on the road
gets kicked up and beats the hell out of the front my my car.  I do not
want to put a bra on the car and I sure don't want to restart that old
argument about bras.  I am interested in other, possibly less effective,
methods of protecting the front of my car.  I would like to keep the
dollar amount at a minimum (eg something that I could do myself).  Before
anyone suggest that I change my driving habits, I can't.  You can also
tell me to grit my teeth and bear it (these are all arguments that I've
seen in the bra threads).  Well, that's kinda the default isn't it?

-- 
William R. Nau
Supercomputer Systems Engineering and Services Company (SSESCO)
511 11th Avenue South, Suite 216
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55415-1536
(612) 342-0003

nau@SSESCO.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zanca@cecer.army.mil (Russell Zanca)
Subject: Hyundai Excel 88 Auto Trans QUESTION
Summary: Hyundai Excel 88 Automatic Transmission Change Question
Keywords: Hyundai Excel Automatic Transmission
Organization: US Army Corps of Engineers Construction Engineering Research Labs
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 14:51:52 GMT


Nothing was wrong with car. Decided transm fluid change needed.  Did
this at great expense.  Told new valve cover gasket needed.  Changed
this with friend.  No more leakage of oil seems to occur.  But lost one
nut for holding down air filter cover.  Problem: engine now vibrates a
lot, and lurches and shakes when changing from park, reverse, etc.
Also, when breaking or beginning to accelerate more shaking, etc.  Once
going it runs well.  We were told we had to change gasket fast for fear
of problems with alternator.  Any ideas? Please let me know.