HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rob@phoenix.erc.clarkson.edu (Rob Logan)
Subject: Heli vibration guidelines
Reply-To: rob@phoenix.erc.clarkson.edu
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 15:31:28 GMT

Taken without permission from Dave Day's book "Flying Model
Helicopters"

1) If the undercarriage shakes, the imbalance is in the motor/clutch
assembly. For some reasion you will invariably find that only one skid
of the undercarriage will vibrate and this is the one on the side of
the advancing main rotor blade (left skid on the right hand turning
main rotors)

2) An out of balance main rotor will cause the tail to shake from side
to side. Don't confuse this with a low speed oscillation which can be
caused by a too sensative gyro. (1)move the tail rotor pushrod tord the
center of the servo or 2)decrease the gyro sensitivity)

3) If the tail vibrates up and down, this is caused by an out of
balance tail rotor.

---
Rob Logan           AMA        -----|-----   ARRL         n2qcn@k2cc.ny.usa.na
Clarkson ERC        IRCHA   *>=====[_]L)     EAA          AirBorn
Potsdam, NY 13699   PRA           -'-`-      PADI         USSA
work: 315-268-2292  fax: 315-268-6570        home: 315-265-2679
From: mc2@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com (Mike Cox 310-524-7792)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Small motor dyno
Date: 2 Oct 92 00:28:35 GMT
Organization: NCR (Torrey Pines Development Center)
Disclaimer: This posting does not neccessarily reflect the opinions of NCR.

I'm looking for information on building/buying a dyno for a motor
in the 1 to 2 hp range. Any ideas where to start?

Thanks,
       Mike
michael.cox@torreypinesca.ncr.com
From: seanm@terapin.com (Sean McCaskey)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Removing warps
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:43:39 PST
Organization: BBS

re: warped wing structure (uncovered)


  I would suggest a steam kettle.  Get the thing steaming real good and hold
the structure to be unwarped in the steam... After the wood has been steamed
for a while, set it in its new position (or a little further in the oposite
direction of the warp) and brace it with heavy weights so it can dry in the new
position.  I have done this on some wings that have been left uncovered for a
while and it seems to work well...your milage may vary.

---Sean---
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

	

	I don't have any plans for one but the metal would
have to be titanium to with stand the heat, I heard you could
buy one fairly cheaply, but no luck finding one so far.

chris wiles
From: fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: AZ Mini-Reno Race (QUERY)
Date: 29 Sep 92 13:20:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: tellab5.1992Sep29.132006.6060
Distribution: usa
Organization: Tellabs, Inc.

Does anybody know anything about the Mini-Reno style race that
will be held in AZ on October 9, 10, 11 ?

I've tried calling the phone number listed in the MA ad, but it
just keeps ringing!

I will be in Phoenix during that time and I would like to check
this event out.


					Thanks,
						Jeff
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________________
                                             
 F-14             |    _    |             | Jeffrey M. Fayne                
   Tomcat         |  /^ ^\  |             | Tellabs, Inc.   Lisle, IL  60532    
      ____________|_(  .  )_|____________ | 708-512-7726    FAX:708-852-7346
           --*/--|_| (___) |_|--\*--      | fayne@tellabs.com 
              *       O O       *     fjs | #include<StdDisclaimer.h>
_____________________________________________________________________________
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc,rec.radio.amateur.misc,rec.video,sci.electronics
From: hbg6@phx.mcd.mot.com (John Schuch)
Subject: Re: Airborne Kreepie Peepie Advice
Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Tempe, Az.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 15:37:21 GMT

In article <1736@necis.UUCP> rbono@necis.UUCP (Rich) writes:
>In article <1992Oct1.101827.12142@uxmail.ust.hk>, coggs@Cogwheel.COM (Bob Coggeshall) wrote:
>> No, Kreepie Peepie is not some kind of pervert, it is ham-radio television
>> transmitter...
>
> By the way, some of the small hand held TV's will directly tune these
>amateur TV frequecies..... It is easy to find out though.... Just set
>your transmitter and camera in your car and turn on the transmitter.  Then
>go walking into the store and as the salesman to show you the handheld TV's.

What would you tune the TV to to receive the ATV signals?

John


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: dave@bclwn.wn.bcl.co.nz (Dave Green)
Subject: Re: Responsibility In Magazine Article Writing
Organization: Business Computers Ltd, Wellington, New Zealand
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 21:06:49 GMT
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

mju@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (michael.j.urban) writes:

[... intro deleted ...]

: 	Sorry Howard, but this is all starting to sound like sour grapes.
: 	It is now very obvious that Jolly is the more objective observer.
: 	You complain about his viewpoint because you suspect bias, only
: 	to ask us to accept your own, which is clearly not objective.
: 	
: 	Since you have a financial interest in the issue, I find your
: 	use of this network for this purpose highly inappropriate.
: 	
: 	
: 	Mike Urban
:

Sorry Mike, I agree with the main points of what Howard was saying, ie. the
comments made by a reviewer on a particular model, kit, whatever, can make
or break market acceptance of the product. For this reason I beleive that anyone
writing a review has a responsibility to put in the time and effort to examine
the product and give it a fair and objective assessment. I've read of several
instances where a reviewer has found weak points in a kit and after pointing
these out to the manufacturer, the manufacturer has rectified the problem in 
future kits. This happens before the review goes to print.

A recent issue of Model Helicopter World (UK mag) had similar comments made on
this topic by one of their own reviewers.

On the rebuttal issue, a letter to the AMA rag may have been more appropriate.

Dave 	
-- 
    _     _
 / /_) / /   / /  / Dave Green <dave@bcl.co.nz>
/ /_) / /_  / /_ /  Ph: +64 (4) 801-6716  Fax: +64 (4) 385-2752
Business Computers Ltd, Box 3236, Wellington 6000, NEW ZEALAND.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: chapin@ssvax.gte.com (Barry Chapin)
Subject: R/C Gas truck Ni-Cad batterys.
Organization: GTE/SCSD
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:16:25 GMT

Hi,

In the past year, I have goten into R/C hobbying which I picked
up from my brother.  I jumped right in and bought a Gas powered
truck from Kyosho, the 'Outlaw Rampage' model, with an OS .21 engine.

I have built it (Which was the most fun) and driven it a bunch of times
for a few months now, but am sick of having to buy the batteries for
the Radio Control Unit, and the reciever in the truck itself.  It takes
8 size AA bateries to power the hand remote (a Futaba Magnum Jr. -2
channel)
and 4 more AA's that sit in the car for the reciever.  My Brother uses
Ni-Cads with a recharger.  What is the best brand of Ni-Cads to invest
in?  I have heard that the Ni-Cads do not last (stay charged) as long
as a set of store bought normal batteries.  Is this true?  Should I
Buy two sets, so I can use one set, and charge the other.?  Most
importantly again, what is the best brand of battery, and brand of
charger?

Also, I wish to put a small light on the truck somewhere.  Maybe a
few of them.  Where could I get the power for these?  Engine as a
generator or Batterys?  I want to run the car in a softball field at
night.  Could an LED on top of the antenna be ok, if drawing battery
power?  How about a brighter light, mounted to the Lexan body?

Thanks in advance.
You can post here or E-Mail me at:
CHAPIN%SCSD@GTE.COM

-Barry Chapin
GTE Government Systems
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 1992 16:06:31 EDT
From: <N42@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: hinges
 <Bv3DAK.4K4@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> <7068@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM>
 <66629@cup.portal.com>

Transparent monokote does have a delamination problem and as such isn't good
for hinges.  Putting it around compound curves isn't a problem if you take
your time and think about it.  As long as the sealed edge doesn't get any
direct air from the slipstream it doesn't delaminate.  We use transparent
colors on the wings of our gliders since it seems to shrink tighter, is lighter
 and has higher visability than the opaque monokotes.  For a terrific hinge
try using transparent booktape by 3M.  I got some at our college bookstore.
It has tremenous adhesive stregth and feels like ot is a mylar substrate.  I
also use it for mounting my servos in the wing.
Regards Scot Gregory
From: pge90@ecs.soton.ac.uk (Edwards PG)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: fun-fly machines
Date: 6 Oct 92 13:19:48 GMT


    Over the summer I practised lots and lots and managed to achieve the SMAE
(Society of Model Aeronautical Engineers) 'B' certificate.      

    The object of which would allow me to participate in next years 
national fun-fly championchips------


  ATTENTION   AMERICA  ----   and everyone else 


     I hear that there are some good fun-fly designs available in america
could someone give me a quick review of the current happenings, 
directions and plans available for this exciting branch of the rc world!!!

  I have been flying a Smith Special which is basically a flying wing,
a 'rod' fuz and about 3lbs in weight. I have also flown a Rara Avis
which is sort of a lightened Wot 4 powered by a 40 engine.  

I have been lucky enough to fly a wide assortment of fun-fly machines
but I am always looking for something different and new----


    so come on tell me about any home designs, their faults and success's 


Some Info:

  Some club records


touch and goes (360 degree turnaround)   --   42 in 2 mins
triple thrash  (take off, three loops, three rolls and land)   --   14 seconds
inverted 4ft limbo, 3 passes   --   11 seconds
time glide (20 second climb)    --   5min 34s



   Hope to hear exploits of other maniacs out there.


    Many thanks  Paul  ( pge90@uk.ac.soton.ecs )

%
%  Any manouvre can be done at least once !
%
%    just remember the plastic bag
%
%


Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: minnich@gn.ecn.purdue.edu (Randolph J. Minnich)
Subject: Re: Miss Martha
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 11:12:07 GMT

In article <BvFyyw.8A5@news.larc.nasa.gov> chaffin@sab45.larc.nasa.gov (Mark Chaffin) writes:
>Does anyone out there know if the Miss Martha is still being kitted?
>If so, who is kitting it.  
>Otherwise, does anyone have a Miss Martha kit they would like to 
>sell.  
>Please e-mail or post.
>

I scratch build Miss Martha's from a set of redesigned plans that
offers a trigear or taildragger setup.  My friend who redesigned the
structure, was able to construct a 4 pound plane with outstanding Fun-Fly
characteristics.  I thought he had build a balistic missile.

I don`t have these plans at school with me, but I`m sure I could get them
copied.  One warning.  I`ve build 3 planes off these plans so they are not
in the best of shape.  Any interest, E-mail me.  I`ll only ask for the cost
of coping and shipping.

Randy Minnich
minnich@ecn.purdue.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

                      Kyosho CONCEPT 30 

I' selling a KYOSHO CONCEPT 30 Heli with an OS 32 engine and its muffler,
and also with spare parts like a tail boom , an extra landing gear and
a complete set of instructions and manuals for its set up.  The chopper has
like 12 to 14 tanks worth of flying, NEVER been crashed.  Solid like a rock
whe hovering.  Excellent condition. For inquiries about the ship call me at
(408)270-5818.     
                      Thanks,
                              Hector. 
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Pulse Jet Home Brew
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 17:39:01 GMT

In article <1992Oct4.050629.10326@iunet.ann-arbor.mi.us> ansis@iunet.ann-arbor.mi.us (ansis_upatnieks) writes:

>    There is no way one of these could be flown at your friendly neighborhood
>flying field, or the field would be lost in a flash.  A deserted wasteland
>far from nowhere would be ideal.  I would like to know where the CL speed
>fliers do their flying and how they get away with it.  BTW, I am not
>associated with any company that has anything to do with pulse-jets and the
>above are my opinions and facts as I see them.

Well, they find a relatively remote concrete parking lot and 
fly. It doesn't have to be _that_ remote. Since they fly at an 
altitude of 10 feet, the sound is mostly reflected upwards. 
Its very loud nearby but is quite faint about 400 yards away.
They fly jet speed regularly at Fort Harrison in Indianapolis.

The flights also don't last any more than 15-30 seconds. Any 
more and you risk pulling your arm off. (As it is it takes 
big, burly people like Billy Hughes to fly jets and .60 speed).



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: rbono@necis.UUCP (Rich)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Converting control line aircraft for radio control flying
Date: 2 Oct 92 13:22:49 GMT
Organization: still seeking it


Ok, there have been a couple of posts talking about converting a profile
C/L ship to R/C.  I have been eyeing my Nobler for a while.  It sits there
gathering dust (I think there is at least 1 inch of dust on it so far, its
last flight was probably a good 20 years ago).  That is a good looking ship
(at least I thought so).  I do need to fix a couple of holes in the covering.
The hanger rash seems to be spreading over the years.

 So on to the burning question:  Has anyone ever converted a C/L ship to
R/C after it had been built?  I know that I would have to rebuild the vertical
fin and rudder, but don't know if I should make it any larger.  Also, I
need to split the flaps and setup the control mechanism for ailerons.
Of course, a new engine (now has a Fox .35, what else?) and a new fuel tank.

 I really don't know if I have the heart to cut into this ship.  She really
looks nice (except for the dreaded hanger rash)!  But I would love to see
this ship fly without being constrained by those metal leashes.

 Comments, experiences and suggestions requested....  Please post for all to
see.

  Rich
-- 
 /**************************************************************************\
 * Rich Bono                     IMRICH         UUCP:rbono@necis.ma.nec.com * 
 * (508) 635-6300                 NM1D          AMPR: nm1d@nm1d.nh.usa.noam * 
 \**************************************************************************/
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: lkawecki@novell.com (Lewis Kawecki)
Subject: FOR SALE: Associated RC-10 car and controller
Organization: Novell Inc., San Jose, Califonia
Distribution: rec.models.rc, misc.forsale
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:53:31 GMT


I am selling my Associated RC-10 car, Magnum Junior controller by Futaba, 3 
6-cell rechargable batteries, a protech super charger, and a set of street
tires for $160 + shipping.

I have the original box, tools, and manuals for the RC-10 car.  Yet, I no longer
have the box for the controller.

Everything is in great shape.  I just pulled it out of the closet yesterday
and it still runs like new.

If you are interested email me at:

lkawecki@novell.com
(408)473-8941   work phone.
From: lew@4ccvw46.scg.hac.com (Lyman Lew)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: C/L Combat Nats article in MA ( and Puma Engines)
Date: 6 Oct 92 19:41:40 GMT
Reply-To: lew@4ccvt2.UUCP (Lyman Lew)
Distribution: na
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Co., El Segundo, CA

In article <BvGD3K.8Bp@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:
> <Discussion on the Lubbock Nats, etc. deleted>
>|	BTW Iskandar, no, I haven't tried that door covering from
>|	Duck.  What's it good for?  I, for one,  never fly doors.
>
>No.. I think it might be useful for doublers, or whereever you'd use
>light ply. I was also thinking of stripping it for spars. No idea what 
>its like. 

The door covering is probably Luan Mohogany. It's pretty junky stuff but
it is used by some of the kit mfg. such as Sterling and Lanier. Mohogany
door skins are brttle and easily splintered when cut or drilled. I seen door
skins made from poplar or birch but it's usually a bit more than mohogany.
Most of these three-ply door skins are available at the Home Depot.

>
>|	All this talk about Texas and combat is because I'm pretty
>|	pumped right now.  Second weekend in Oct. I'm off to fly in
>|	the Combat Classic in Houston, free plane ticket courtesy of
>|	Jeff Dawson.  Of course, I'll probably go 0 for 3, but somehow
>|	I don't think that will keep me from having a good time, which
>|	is what its all about.
>
>Ah.. oops.. thats when Doc's meet is.. well let everyone up there 
>know about it anyhow...don't want Baldwin to get a heart attack if
>he has to give a Shuriken to Bear.. (the last time Bear got to the
>semi-finals)....
>
>Tell us all about it when you get back  9-)
>
>
>-- 
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
>Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
>Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !

To all you combat nuts, I just flown my FAI ship last weekend and it flew very
well. The plane is a modified Blaster I bought from Jed Kusik and the motor
is the Puma .15 that is advertised by the Hobby Club in RCM. The Puma runs very
well and seems to pull the plane around pretty well on .015x60ft lines. I'm using
a 7/4 APC on 10% nitro. I haven't gotten a rpm reading on the engine yet or a
the speed of the airplane but that will come later this month. Boy, those FAI ships
are sure touchy but it is alot of fun flailing my arm around get the airplane to
zig zag around the circle. Well, gotta go.....


Lyman Lew, lew@caesi.scg.hac.com



































	
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: paulm@storcon.UUCP (Paul Moreau)
Subject: Re: Cap 21 tail heavy
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 13:32:07 GMT
Organization: Storage Concepts, Inc.

In article <1992Sep28.124316.23161@tellab5.tellabs.com>, fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne) writes:
|> In article <1992Sep23.230232.16403@bohra.cpg.oz.au> jrp@bohra.cpg.oz.au (John Pitman) writes:
|> >Hi 
|> >Recently I posted about my tail heavy GP CAP 21 .40 size - it took 11.5 oz of
|> >lead in the front of the cowl, AND a 4.5 oz brass nut inside the spinner to
|> >balance it! The stab is built up , not solid, but the fin and elevator are
|> 
|> I had the same problem with a .40 size GP CAP 21 that I picked up at
|> a local swap meet. It needed about 1 lb of nose weight to balance
|> with an OS .40 SF!
|> 
|> Rather than throw that much weight in the nose, I opted to install
|> my OS .61 SF instead!  The balance was right on the recommended CG.
|> 
|> I had absolutely no problem flying it with the .61, in fact
|> IMHO it was the right power/weight ratio that I was looking for.
|> 
|> 
|> 
|> 				- Jeff
|> 
|> -- 
|> _____________________________________________________________________________
|>                                              
|>  F-14             |    _    |             | Jeffrey M. Fayne                
|>    Tomcat         |  /^ ^\  |             | Tellabs, Inc.   Lisle, IL  60532    
|>       ____________|_(  .  )_|____________ | 708-512-7726    FAX:708-852-7346
|>            --*/--|_| (___) |_|--\*--      | fayne@tellabs.com 
|>               *       O O       *     fjs | #include<StdDisclaimer.h>
|> _____________________________________________________________________________

  Better yet, I use an OS .91 Surpass.   I've used the .61 but thought it
  gave a little too much speed and not enough tourque.   The .91 with a
  13x8 or 14x7 prop was perfect (however, you had to land gently ...)

--
          _____________________________________________________________
          -                *                      _______   _~;       -
          -            Paul Moreau               |       =_= /        -
          -    Sr. Diagnostics Software Eng.     \   USA    /         -
          -         Irvine, California      --->  *-_  ___ /          -
          -     UUCP: ..!uunet!storcon!paulm         \/   \\          -
          _____________________________________________________________

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: schounj@edmund.cs.andrews.edu (Jeff Schoun)
Subject: RC10 vs RC10L
Organization: Andrews University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 21:29:20 GMT

Are local track has changed over to dirt oval raceing, some people are
running RC10teams with foams on 'em, others are useing the RC10l with
foams, this is vs onroad vs offroad, what do you netters think is best
to use? The track is VERY smooth, smoother then most road tracks.

Thanks all


Jeff

schounj@edmund.cs.andrews.edu

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: msw@meaddata.com (Michael Walpole)
Subject: Glowplug recomendations for OS32H Sought
Keywords: glowplugs,OS32H
Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 19:28:25 GMT
Distribution: usa

I have an OS32H engine in my Kalt Enforcer and I am having trouble
getting it to run properly.  When I lean the engine out enough so it
won't quit, it runs too lean in hover; however, when I richen it up
enough to run correctly in hover, it quits during transition from
forward flight to hover.  I have adjusted the carb and tried running
the low-end rich with the high end lean and vice versa.  In either
case the same problem still exists.  I suspect the plug because of the
way the engine quits.  (This is very disconcerting, but I did learn to
do autos this way!)

I am currently using a McCoy #9 plug and I have yet to try a Fox RC
Long or a K&B 1L idlebar.  The reason I suspect the plug is that the
McCoy is not an idlebar plug.  My guess as to what is happening is
that when I pull the power back to come out of forward flight, the
engine loads up with fuel, then when the throttle is advanced to
maintain hover the additional fuel blows the plug out.  I had a Fox RC
Long in previously and the engine ran the same way, but the plug was
worn out.

I would appreciate suggestions from anyone who has experience with a
OS32H in a heli.

BTW, The Enforcer flies real well.  I've just started experimenting
with setting up the acro switches on my 347 TX and I'll probably be
setting up the pitch curves for the throttle hold to start practicing
autos soon.  Anyone who is willing to exchange information concerning
setting up and flying Enforcers can contact me via email.  I would
enjoy starting a dialog concerning this heli.
_________________________________________________________________
 Mike Walpole     |      This space       |      msw@meaddata.com
 Mead Data Central|     accidentally      |...!uunet!meaddata!msw
 Miamisburg, OH   |      left blank!      |
(513)865-1086     |                       |
From: wre1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Wm. Randy Esposito)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: First plane
Date: 2 Oct 92 23:11:22 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Hi!!

I'm currently an off-road racer who is looking to get it to planes.  I am
looking for a electric sailplane because I allready have all the batteries and
a charger, and even a few extra motors.  I was wondering if anyone could
recomend a easy to build inexpensive and docile plane.  I do have some
experience working with building wooden kits.  Please email me at the address
below with any suggestions.  All help in this matter would be greatly
appreciated.


            Thanks.
-- 



---------------
Wm. Randy Esposito                "What is arrogance to your
Lehigh University                  enemies, is self-confidence
Bethlehem, PA                      to your friends."
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc