HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Removing Valve Springs etc..
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 06:59:46 GMT

Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:
:  EV> I have an Alfa Romeo Giulietta (actually I have two) and would love to 
:  EV> replace my valve springs. I don't feel like removing the head, though.
: 
: Mercedes makes a tool that hooks onto the OHC and presses down on the valve
: spring retainers.  I would guess that a similar tool exists for use on the DOHC
: Alfa head.
: 
I have a tool which grabs the bottom coils of the valve spring, similar to a
gear puller setup.  Then you crank the handle, which pushes down on the spring
retainer, and PRESTO, the valve drops into the cylinder unless you filled it
with compressed air or soft rope.

I found it at a Whitlock (they have other names, it's a national chain, the one
with the Model T in the logo), and it was fairly cheap, maybe $10.00 or so.

Hope this helps!

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


From: Frank.Mallory@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Anyone know about aftermarket electronic ignitions
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 12:14:36 -0500

 AF> I have a 1978 Lotus with an Allison XR-700 electronic ignition which
 AF> was installed long before I bought the car.  Right now, I am having a 
 AF> problem with the car and there are many indications that the problem
 AF> is in the electronic ignition.
 AF> 
 AF> So, here are my questions:
 AF> 
 AF> 1. Is there a way to check the ignition module?  

Yes, there's a way to check it, but I it would take a lot of hunting for me to
find the info. The main problem is usually in the connectors between the
distributor and the electronic module. I have replaced mine with a terminal
block from Radio Shack.

 AF> 2. Is Allison still in business?  If so, are their current models plug-
 AF>    compatible with their older ones?

Far as I know, they are still in business. You can buy these units for $78 from
JCW.

 AF> 3. Does anyone have manuals/schematics/anything for the Allison XR-700?

I have the installation instructions, which do not include the internal circuit
diagram.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ericc@Arco.COM (Chang Eric(214)754-3562)
Subject: Re:  JB Weld?
Organization: ARCO Oil and Gas Company
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 14:31:35 GMT

ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:
: Yesterday I fixed my bicycles headset with this J B Weld stuff.
: It seems to have worked (I won't know for a long time if it really worked).
: I'm wandering if anybody out there has used this stuff as they claim it can
: be used...i.e. to fix tractor axles, the inside of an engine, or any of their
: increadible claims.  I used it because AFOM swears by the strange goo.
:
: Also, what is it?  Is it just a epoxy or what (comes in two tubes: hardner and
: steel).  I mean they claim it can be drilled, tapped, machined and so forth...
: etc

I use JB Weld for some non-critical applications.  I saw a demonstration in
which two valves were glued together on their flat ends, and the demonstrator
was asking people to try to separate them.  The stems of both valves (pretty
tough) were bent from the effort.  I tried to break it by hammering it, figuring
that shock would be more effective than stress, but was unable to.

JB Weld is good for applications which involve a large contact area, small gaps
and low stress.  I used it for a motorcycle brake handgrip and it failed.  Not
enough contact area.  I also used it for the bottom of a .45 auto magazine
, the plate popped off.  It failed once (not enough contact area, too much
shock).  There are cases where it has failed to adhere (probably too smooth of
a surface), and there are cases where the bond has shattered (somewhat brittle).
One guy tells me it works fine if backed up with a screw or fiberglass.  I used
it for a gearshift housing, but built up fillets with fiberglass.  It worked
until I could find a replacement (several months, a rare part).  Keep expiration
date in mind.   Good Luck.              Eric
From: mhoza@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Michael J Hoza)
Subject: Redline MTL
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1992 14:57:32 GMT

I am thinking about putting Redline MTL (manual transmission lubricant) in the 
gearbox of my 1985 Toyota MR2.  In general I have heard very good things about
this gearlube, especially in providing smoother shifts, but I do have a few 
questions.  Redline makes another gearlube which meets GL-5 and GL-6 specs and 
the Redline literature would seem to indicate that this lube provides the best 
protection and anti-wear characteristics.  The MTL meets GL-4 specs only a 
seems formulated to help the synchronizers with "friction enhancers".  My 
question is, would a friction enhancer also be a wear enhancer?  I know that 
the synchros need some friction to work but what are the drawbacks of this 
increased friction?  My owners manual recommends GL-4 or GL-5 spec gearlube, 
what does GL-4, GL-5, and GL-6 mean?  Does GL-6 supercede GL-5 and GL-4 or 
would a GL-6 lubricant not be recommended where GL-4 is required?  So, aside 
from helping the synchros, how good of a lubricant is MTL?  Also, I have heard 
very good thing about Mobil's synthetic gear lube.  Does anybody have 
experience with it?  Does it smooth the shifts as well as MTL?

Thanks in advance,

Michael Hoza
From: gss@btcase.bt.co.uk (Graham Sewell)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Is Stuck
Date: 31 Jul 92 08:10:03 GMT
Organization: British Telecom, Lion House, London.

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:


> They're better than 12-points, but the best are the Snap-On Flank Drive
>sockets I mentioned earlier.  Other tool companies may make something
>similar - and chances are, if they do, they'll be cheaper than Snap-On.

> Snap-On makes fine tools, but they're just too darned expensive.
>                                       
In the UK, a company called Richmond sell a set of spanners and a set of
sockets which work on the flats of the nut or bolt.  They were
reasonably priced and have got me out of problems in the past.


-- 
Graham Sewell                          Tel   +44 71 728 4851
Unix TP and Database Unit              Fax   +44 71 728 4883
PP506, Lion House, 72-75 Red Lion St, LONDON. WC1R 4RT
gss@btcase.bt.co.uk
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: car fails to crank in cold/rainy days
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 07:49:03 GMT

gt0963d@prism.gatech.EDU (Deeptendu Majumder) writes:
: It happened to me once before and it happened today.
: Last time my car was covered with snow. But this morning
: it was probably related to last night's major downpour.
: 
: Could it be a starter problem ? Can I relate a starter
: problem to rain/snow ? Last time also little tapping
: or banging the hood helped to start the engine. It was
: almost 7-8 months ago. Is it a loose connection that
: gets worse in cold or rainy situations. But it does
: not happen on a regular basis even when it rains heavy!
: 
I would check the wiring going to your solenoid.  Check, especially, the
small wire going to it from the keyswitch.  If it's a spade connection,
perhaps it is corroded and not conducting very well.  It doesn't seem
too likely to me that it would be the high-current side of the solenoid,
as those usually (always?) are bolted-on wires and don't go anywhere.
Spade logs, however,oxidize pretty rapidly if they are where road spray
can get to them.

Good Luck!

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
Pherrets are Phun!! 
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel)
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Organisation: TU Delft, The Netherlands
Organization: Delft University of Technology
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 13:40:03 GMT

In <1992Jul20.183632.12829@EE.Stanford.EDU> mack@isl.Stanford.EDU (mack) writes:

>I need some net.advice for replacing the timing belt on my Nissan
>Sentra 85. The original belt worked for 102K miles before it gave in,
>and the car died on me last Friday. I had it towed home (God bless
>AAA). How easy/difficult a task is it to replace the belt? I am not a
>very good mechanic, but I do most of my car's maintenance by myself.
>Any tips I should know?

Buy a new engine. If your timing belt came off while the engine was revving,
it is gone. Broken and bent valves, cracked pistons and a damaged head. :-(

You might have a free-wheeling engine, but that is scarce nowadays.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 16:39:47 GMT

In article <u96NqB2w165w@csource.oz.au> speednut@csource.oz.au writes:
>I drive a '80 Cortina TE (American's may not know this car - the Brits
>certainly would), and had the drive belt give way while doing 4000 RPM
>on the way to work. Apart from the instantaneous spinning of the motor I
>had no problems. I can't understand how such a problem would occur
>because the instant the belt snaps the valves stay where they are and
>the pistons can't reach up that far to smack them. It could only be if
>the high revs after the belt has broken cause a valve stem to shear.

>If there wasn't some sort of clearance, what would happen when the timing
>was out????????

obviously your cortina is a low compression motor.  in order to avoid
collisions between valves and pistons when the timing goes off, it is
necessary to compromise the design of the piston crown quite a lot.
this is why most performance motors are at risk if the timing belt or
chain should break.

usually if the cam timing is off by a couple of degrees (say, one tooth)
there isn't a problem, except the car may run like dogmeat.  in the
inline 4 2000 alfa motor (the alloy one from the 70s and 80s, not the
cast iron one from the 50s), there is actually about 15 degrees of useful
adjustment for cam timing, depending on what you want the motor to do
(power at high rpms, mid range torque, or maybe just pass emissions
testing.)

cheers,
  richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Euro Headlamps for '85 900 wanted!
Date: 28 Jul 92 06:51:50 GMT
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I would like to get headlights for an '88 900 Turbo, and as Andy, I need
the whole assemblies.  If anyone out there has info on these, please e-mail
me at the address below.  Note that they changed in '86 or so, the ones
I need are the aerodynamic type, with the sloped nose rather than the
straight up-and-down nose which was on the '85.

In other words, if  they are rectangular, Andy wants them, if they are
aero, I want them.

Let us know!

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:9920 rec.autos:18170
From: jimv@hienergy.Eng.Sun.COM (Jim Vienneau  - Sun Microsystems)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Re: Horsepower is a meaningless advertising term.
Date: 21 Jul 92 18:20:05 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: hienergy.east.sun.com

In article <1992Jul21.112458.4292@bb1t.monsanto.com> rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
>In article <1992Jul21.100528.7286@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>, weverka@spot.Colorado.EDU (Robert T. Weverka) writes:
>> In <1992Jul20.182720.26606@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>>>In <1992Jul20.153457.20046@cbfsb.cb.att.com>, rjc@cbnewsf.cb.att.com writes:
>>>|> 
>>>|> I'm looking at 5hp, 80 Gal tank, cast iron, compressor.
>>>
>> Horsepower is a meaningless advertising term.
>> 
>> A normal house circuit produces no more than 15 Amps of current
>> at 120 volts.  This is 2.4 horsepower at 100% efficiency.
>> To get more horsepower you need to run special wiring.
>> 
>>Ok, so what's the best number to use for comparisons?
>
>Rick.
>
>
>

Always use SCFM ratings at 90PSI to compare compressors. HP rating are
bullshit. I have a noname 2HP that runs 7.3 SCFM@90PSI, I just saw a 3.5HP
at JC Penney that runs 6.0 SCFM@90PSI. What's wrong with this picture? Also
my 2HP draws 18amps, their 3.5HP drew 14.7 amps. Under duty it was rated
as "special". It's special alright... In compressors like everything else,
you get what you pay for. Check out Harbor Freight, they had some decent
deals on compressors when I last looked.





--
Jim Vienneau, Sun Microsystems Inc - Billerica, MA
Email: jvienneau@east.sun.com   Amateur Radio: WB1B
Good old Ma Bell (well old anyway): (508)671-0372
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:10026 rec.autos:18348
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Fun pranks to pull with your car (Was: ++WHICH OIL BEST FOR)
Date: 23 Jul 92 16:40:36 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: Center for Microelectronics, MCNC; RTP, NC

> I've had a bit of fun with my older SAABs (they used 2-stroke engines until
> 1968) at gas stations.  Occasionally, I'll get strange looks as I take my
> gallon gascan out of the trunk, pour a quart of two-stroke oil in it, fill
> the gascan halfway or so with gas, shake it, and pour it into the tank, then
> fill the tank.  It's quite a production, really.  Anyway, this Yuppie Scum
> in a BMW was watching me from across the pumps, with the classic 
> 'what the hell are you doing' look.  I told him, "Well, the car has 210,000
> miles on the engine, and has never had an oil change.  I just dump it in
> here and figure it will take care of itself." At that point, I went in to pay
> and when I came out, he was STILL standing there dumbly, dazed and confused.

> I LOVE it when that happens!

> Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.

Sure keeps 'em guessing!!!

Reminds me of an article I read about a guy with a '56 Chevy who loves to pull
into the full service gas pumps and tell them to fill it up. If the attendant
hasn't ever seen one of these, he'll NEVER find the gas cap - it's hidden
BEHIND the left taillight. You have to turn an innocuous-looking piece of
chrome trim on the tailllight assembly, and the taillight hinges downward. 
(About as obvious as secret doors & passageways in a whodunit mystery).

More in the vein of the "jury rig your car or die" thread, I was riding with
a guy back to school in the pouring rain when the vacuum wipers on his
Javelin crapped out - while we were still 3 hours from school. Fortunately,
he had some baling twine in the trunk, which we attached to the wiper arms
and ran in through the windows.  The expressions of the drivers passing us
was priceless.

Anybody else out there who has some interesting pranks they pull simply to
enjoy boggling other driver's minds?
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: Cliff_Lum@mindlink.bc.ca (Cliff Lum)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: 25 Jul 92 00:28:16 GMT
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Distribution: world

> 
> rsoft!agate!ames!sun-barr!cs.utexas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!news.utdallas.e
> du writes:
> 
> Msg-ID: <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca>
> Posted: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 13:38:1
> 
> Org.  : Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a
> normally
> aspirated V-8 engine?
> 
> Deleted stuff about balanced and blueprinted engine.
> 
> In a recent magazine Hot Rod I think the editors put synthetic lubes in
> everything and got better elapse times. From mid 12's to mid 11's in the
> quarter mile.
> they used Red Line 75W-90 gear oil in the diff. MTL in the tranny and mobil 1
> in the engine. Although they could have used a Red line engine oil..
> 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: love@stacken.kth.se (Love Feuer)
Subject: Re: grinding gears when revving engine at high speed
Organization: Stacken Computer Club, Stockholm, Sweden
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 15:14:13 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.102442.21229@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>tr@samadams.princeton.edu (Tom Reingold) writes:
>: 
>: When I rev the engine to nearly redline, shifting to second gear is
>: very tricky.  
[ Deleted ]
>I have, among others, a '88 900 Turbo, which has the same engine (plus turbo,
>more or less), but a different tranny. 
[ Deleted ]

I didn't get the model of Tom Reingolds car but I can say the following
about SAAB:

The 900 (and its ancestor 99/90) is legendary here in Sweden for its
weak gearbox (and especially the second gear). It's the first thing
we check when we buy a used SAAB.
Check the synch rings, and if they seem to be okay, get a new gearbox.

The 9000 appearantly have no such problems at all. 

(If you want to drive old swedish cars without any problems, buy something
from the Volvo PV, Duett, Amazon, 14*, 16*, 24* or 26* series. They last 
forever.)

Love Feuer
love@lk.se 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Horsepower is a meaningless advertising term.
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 13:16:29 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 About running air remote: you could think about using Schedule-40 PVC pipe.
The small stuff is rated at 400PSI and it drops to about 150 at 2" diameter.
So you can run a reasonably big line underground (maybe way under in case it
bursts), get the flow losses down and also pick up that extra volume in the 
line; 50' of 2" line ought to give you about 7 gallons. 
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: tklohck@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (tim)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help with CV joint replacement
Date: 31 Jul 92 00:40:55 GMT
Reply-To: tklohck@etch-eshop.Berkeley.EDU (tim)
Organization: University of California, Berkeley

>I am about to undertake a CV joint replacement on my 1984 SUBARU GL wagon. I have
>never done this before. Anything to look out for? Any tips? Any special tools
>needed?

I had a problem with my '82 Subaru DL that I finaly traced to the wheel
bearing.  In the mean time, I had the whole half axel out.  I was after
the hub at the time (to take it to have the new bearings pressed in at my
machine shop.)  Once the hub is out, pulling the drive line out is easy.
You just need to take a punch (a narrow steel rod with a wider end) and
a hammer and tap out a pin on the transmision side and it slides right
out.  

Now getting the hub out is another matter.  It requires popping the tie-rod
end and ball joint with this thing that looks like a overgrown tuning
fork.  The people who know what they're doing call it a pickle fork.  You
also have to remove the break caliper and its bracket and the rotor of
course.  If you've never done break work, then there are a few simple yet
important things to know like don't torque the axel nut too much when
you're puting it back on, and DONT press the break pedal when your
caliper is hanging loose. (Duh.  This caused me much grief once when I tried to
bleed one side while the other side's rotor was being turned.)  Then the
only remaining tricky part is getting the axel out of the bearing.  It's
a pretty tight fit and really took me a lot of finnessing to pull it out
by hand.  Getting it back in required an aluminum pipe and a lot of
patient tapping with a hammer.

Now after all that about hub removal, the fact of the matter is that on
some models you don't have to remove the hub at all.  If you undo the
tierod, then you can turn the hub enough so that you can pull the axel
out of it without taking it out.  But like I said, it's a pretty tight
fit and I  think that would have been pretty  awkward in my case.

So all that was about getting the drive line out.  If you only want to
replace the CV joint (I assume you mean the outer u-joint and not the
one on the tranny side called the double offset razamatasm
somthinerother joint) and not the whole half axel, then you'll need some
more advice from someone else.  Usually, I think they replace the whole
axel, but I know you can take the axel in to a specialist and have him
fix part of it. (Netters?)

Anyway, e-mail me if you run into anything confusing.

Timothy Klohck
UC Berkeley Mathematics
tklohck@etch-eshop.berkeley.edu
From: jimd@pequod.gvg.tek.com (Jim Delwiche)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: 23 Jul 92 20:31:51 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Grass Valley Group, Grass Valley, CA

I saw a blurb on Motorweek a while back where a non-invasive
technique for removing carbon buildup was described.  This kind of
fits into the Popular Mechanics "Gee Whiz" category, so if anyone out
there has tried it and it worked, let us know:

Basically, the idea is to scrub the insides of the cylinder and head
with coarsely ground walnut shells.  There is some kind of gizmo which
I guess pumps these walnut shells down the intake side, and swirls
them around with sufficient energy to remove carbon deposits.  The
advantage, obviously, is you don't have to take the head off.  I don't
know--it might be necessary to remove the intake manifold or
something...

Jim
From: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM (Dennis Henderson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Chevy Headliner Replacement
Date: 29 Jul 1992 19:54:19 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems
Distribution: world
Reply-To: wdh@oversteer.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: oversteer


>I can tell you one thing that doesn't work:  spraying on spray adhesive that
>comes from an cloth shop.  The headliner fell down in less time than it took
>me to put it up.
>
>-- 
>Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Developmen

3M sells an aerosal adhesive that is designed for use in GM-style 'padded cloth 
on shell' construction.   The can specifically states that an intended application 
is "lightweight headliners". Lesser adhesives do not hold up (literally) in the high 
heat of an automobile environment.  They make an even more capable adhesive 
for underhood insulation retention.  The average 3M spray adhesive sold in hobby 
stores will not work. 

I replaced the headliner once.  It was fairly easy and came out looking very 
nice.  Worst part of the job was procuring the plastic clips that necessarily 
snapped when I removed the trim pieces.  

I wondered why I waited so long to do this job. 

..Dennis Henderson  DIY FYI


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech