HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mdb@netcom.com (Mark Bisgeier)
Subject: golf balls
Summary: New Titleist Ball
Keywords: Titleist ball balls
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 17:16:13 GMT

Anyone tried the new Titleist "low-trajectory" balata ball yet?

-- 

Mark Bisgeier              mdb@netcom.com
From: southard@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jim Southard)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:41:59 GMT
Subject: Re: Dave Pelz Golf Research info.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf

In rec.sport.golf, ckf@f16.cray.com (Charles K. Foley) writes:

> The person who was looking for this info originally was trying to locate
> the putter with the rails around the sweetspot (any mishit would send the
> ball off in the wrong direction, thereby teaching you to hit the
> sweetspot).  It's not available from Pelz...

After reading Pelz's book, I was interested in testing out this sweetspot
learning process but didn't have access to the special putter.

On my putter (Slotline Inertial) I took two rubber bands and wrapped them
around the putter head on either side of the sweetspot:

                           \   \
                            \   \
                     ________\   \_____________
                    /       |    |    |        \
                    |       |    |    |        |
                    \__________________________/
                            ^    ^    ^
                         rubber  |  rubber
                         band    |  band
                             sweetspot 

The bands need to be multiple-looped to take up slack, depending on how long
they are.  You want them long enough that the multiple loops build up a
"ridge" on either side of the sweetspot.  How far apart they need to be
depends on the thickness of the rubber bands and how many times they are
looped around.  You can make the sweetspot "window" as tight as you want by
moving the rubber bands closer together.  It sounds very unscientific (it
is), but I found it to work quite well.  If you miss the sweetspot, the ball
goes off-line and you get a rubber "thud" sound/feel rather than the usual
soft crack.

The only disadvantage I found in this method is that the rubber bands can
drag on the putting surface, especially if tend to drag the putter head a
little anyway.  I found that using the rubber bands "trained" me to float the
putter head a little above the putting surface, which may not be so bad.

You may or may not be able to do this on other putters, depending on how the
putter shaft connects to the head (the shaft may get in the way of one of the
bands). 

Regarding the putting track trainer, I found that two 2x2 boards laid parallel
to each other worked pretty well.  Adjusting the "tightness" of the swing
window is just a matter of giving one of the boards a nudge with your
putter.  This method only works with a straight-back straight-through swing
path, though; it doesn't adapt well to an inside-straight-inside arc.

Jim Southard
southard@fc.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: "william cochrane" <william.cochrane@canrem.com>
Subject: three wedges
Reply-To: "william cochrane" <william.cochrane@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 12 Dec 92 07:16:28 EST

There were two articles in golf magazines re using three wedges, and the
first, by Dave Pelz was far more interesting.  His thesis was that with
three swings, and three of four wedges a golfer would have very good
control over how far the ball travelled. First he analyzed current
results of shots from 100 yards in for the tour players, and found they
were accurate (in terms of line) but not accurate in terms of distance.

His system was that by learning only three different backswings (I think
they were called 7 o'clock, 9 o'clock, and 11 o'clock or full )  there
would be 9 or 12 different distances the ball would travel.  THis would
eliminate the need to "judge" each shot i. e. the shot distance would be
dealt with consistently, not by feel.

This requires some practise time to learn how far each wedge/backswing
combination travels, but after that we should be more consistent around
the green.  Pelz pointed out that you could put a piece of tape on each
club listing the distance you get with that club for each swing, because
the number of combinations would tax the memory.

Two other comments: I use the third wedge, and it is especially good
when you want the ball to stop quickly, e. g. shooting over bunker to
hole close to edge of green.

Second, Pelz is very analytical, and does a lot of quantitative research
to develop his theories.  Most of work is around the short game, and his
book on putting was fun to read.
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain)
Subject: Re: Looking for club buying tips
Organization: Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
Date: 17 Dec 92 19:58:54 GMT

jeffrey@iti.gov.sg (Jeffrey Goh (Sch-NS KSL)) writes:


: 	What I am looking for are some general "rules of thumb"

Go to a golf course/pro shop and try to get a measurement so you get a
idea of what you need to look for.  Like lie, club length etc ....
Then try to find someplace that will let you play a few rounds with a
demo set.  This should give you some sort of idea as to how well you
hit them or whether or not you even like them.  Try different demo's.

: 	For instance, do the various brands have any _real_ difference
: 	between them ?  They all look pretty much the same to me.
: 	Cavity back, Perimeter weighting, etc.. seem to be in almost
: 	all the sets I have looked at.  What else should I be looking
: 	out for ?  

This is pretty much true.  However, they are progressive perimeter
weighted clubs.  There are also irons that are more of a cross between
a bladed iron and a cavity back iron.  Hogan Edge and Powerbilt TPS
Advanced come to mind.

Basically I suggest just trying to find a pro who has a half a dozen
different demo sets and just play them and see what the various clubs
have to offer for you and *your* game.  As for hitting into nets
discount shops.  This method has really never given me much a feel for
the club  I'm hitting.

--tom
--
	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu

 While most peoples' opinions change, the conviction of their
 correctness never does.
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: engerise@rtsg.mot.com (Mathew Engeriser)
Subject: Swingweight
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 18:40:00 GMT

I would like to find out anything I can about swingweight, such as:

1) How important is it to have swingweight consistent on a set of clubs?
2) What do the swingweight numbers mean (i.e. E4?)?
3) What are good swingweights for different skill levels?
4) How to measure?
5) How to adjust (shaft, weight disks or powder, i.e. Golfworks club heads)?

Did I forget anything?

thanks in advance, matt
From: doc@webrider.central.sun.com (Steve Bunis)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
Subject: Re: Driver Advice
Date: 18 Dec 1992 16:00:00 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: doc@webrider.central.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: webrider.central.sun.com


I just recently rebought my entire set (my old set was stolen out of
my car trunk).  I looked, and hit, both the Bertha and the Midsize.
While I ended up buying the System 2 Taylor Mades for my 3 & 5 woods, 
I preferred the feel of the Bertha (with graphite shaft) over the Midsize 
and ended up buying it.  

As a Caveat - I had previously sent out over my company golf alias asking
for opinions.  I got many responses favorable to both of these clubs.
Bottom line is how it feels to you!  For me the Bertha won!

Good Luck,

Steve

In article 4698@Virginia.EDU, sak@Virginia.EDU ("Stephen A. Kimata") writes:
> Hello.  I'm looking for some advice about two drivers,
> specifically Big Bertha versus the new Taylor Made Midsize.
> 
> Has anyone used and compared these two drivers?  If so, which
> one did you prefer and why?
From: john@iluvatar.tip.duke.edu (John Jones / Duke University)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
Subject: Jack Nickalus Sports Center
Date: 17 Dec 92 13:39:15 GMT
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a5@news.cs.duke.edu
Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name.


  This past summer I had the chance to vist the Jack Nickalaus Sports
Center at Kings Island Ohio.  I was wondering if anyone else had the
chance to play there yet and what their comments were?  The only day
that I had a chance to get on the course was on Sunday, and of course
it was the only day that rained while we were there.  I was determined
to play anyway, and it really wasn't that bad.  The course was in
excellent shape.  There is the regular 18 hole course, and then there
is a short course.  The short course is not all par 3's.  There is a
mix of par 3's and 4's with the longest hole around 350 yards.  The
fairways were like some of the greens that I play around here.  It was
mid June and the fairways were green and plush, the rough was even
great, being green and the grass was just a little thick and not very
deep.  The prices did seem a little high.  I rented a set of Jack
Nickalus clubs and played 9 holes on the short course(walking) and it
cost me $35.  All in all it was a great experience and hope that we
will be going back real soon.  Would like to hear from anyone else that
has played this course.  Also in driving around the area, it seemed
like a golfers dream come true.  I saw about 10 courses in the general
area of Kings Island and heard there were many more.  If you have
played any of these courses too, let me know as I will probably be
going back next summer.


John Jones
Duke Univeristy / TIP Program
john@iluvatar.tip.duke.edu
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: dmr@apmaths.uwo.ca (Daniel M Racicot)
Subject: golf shoes
Organization: Applied Mathematics, U.W.O
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 05:00:26 GMT

I have a few questions about shoes. I'm a beginner but would like to get 
some for Xmas but don't have a clue what to look for.  

I'm a pretty bad player (110-115) so is it even worth getting them?
What are the good brands? I really want something waterproof.

Any help would be appreciated.
Dan
dmr@apmaths.uwo.ca
From: 6500sky@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Frank Sky)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
Subject: good, cheap oversized drivers?
Date: 17 Dec 92 01:03:39 GMT
Distribution: rec

Can anyone suggest to me a good quality oversized
driver for less than $100?

Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: mftjs@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (T. Jerry Scott)
Subject: Re: What does a golfer want for Christmas?
Organization: Educational Computing Network
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 13:16:54 GMT

As always, a number of good days of golfing with your buddies.  What we
really want is for those putts we need to make to go in, and for that
drive to carry the water on that  tough driving hole.  Also, for that
new gimick club we really think will improve our games.

But, alas, those things normally don't come at Christmas.  So we may as
well just enjoy any golf we can play, and hope for a better year in 93.

My always Christmas gift from relatives is for new Titleist golf balls.
They don't ever get old and it is always fun to still have a few new
Titleists to play with in the next round.

For all of you guys out there, have a nice Christmas.  My group will
spend 5 days at Myrtle Beach this year, playing the 5 best courses there
for a fee of $52 per day, which includes Motel room, breakfast, cart,
and green fees.  The motel is right on the Atlantic.

=====================================================================
Thomas J. Scott  (aka Dr. J.)			Phone: 309-298-1452
Western Illinois University			mftjs@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu
From: bsmith@stake.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (ROBERT SMITH)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
Subject: Re: Looking for club buying tips
Date: 17 Dec 92 20:56:22 GMT
Organization: Stakeholder Relations, NCR Corp in Dayton,OH

In article <1992Dec17.075234.22056@iti.gov.sg> jeffrey@iti.gov.sg (Jeffrey Goh
(Sch-NS KSL)) writes:
>Hi,
>
>       I'm wondering if the golf-gurus on this newsgroup can offer
>       some advice on _how_ to go about buying a set of clubs.  I am
>       not particularly concerned about the specific brand or set
>       recommendations per se, though these are welcome.
>
>       What I am looking for are some general "rules of thumb"
>       to go about looking for a decent set that I can start of
>       with and yet be comfortable with for some time (say about 5
>       years ? ).

        [rest deleted]

I am far from a golf guru -- hacker would be a better word.

Here's what worked for me when I was brand new to the game about 3 years ago. 
I went to all the golf stores around here (there are lots) and looked at sets
in all price ranges to get an idea of the market.  But something bothered me
-- in all cases, they were selling me an off-the-shelf set without regard for
what was right for me.

Then I heard about a local, non-chain store that sold brand name clubs as well
as assembled their own clone clubs.  They have PGA professionals working at
this shop.  I ended up buying a set of Ping clones that were custom fitted
for me (e.g. longer than standard, slightly larger grip).  To save money, and
because I was new to the game, I only bought a 3W, 5W, 3,5,7,9I, PW & SW. 
These 8 clubs plus putter were all I needed.  A year or so later I added the
even numbered irons.  I have been very happy with the clubs.  In summary, my
tip is to have a pro fit you for the club that is right for your build, and
don't feel the need to buy a full set, and don't worry about brand names.
-- 
Bob Smith
E-mail => Robert.D.Smith@daytonoh.ncr.com
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: "James F. Tims" <p00168@psilink.com>
Subject: Re: wedge advice
Organization: Semper Excelsior
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 21:48:53 GMT
X-Mailer: PSILink (3.2)

>DATE:   Thu, 10 Dec 1992 14:59:54 EST
>FROM:   IVERS@auvm.american.edu
>
>I have followed the two wedge/three wedge debate with interest.  Now I need
>some advice on this matter myself.
>
>I need to replace my sand wedge, a 16-year old Lynx tiger.  I now play Lynx
>Predator Golds (2-pw), which I love, but I am open to adding a different model
>(Parallax) or brand (I've heard excellent things about the Cleveland Classic
>and Taylor Made sand/lob wedges).
>
>Here are my questions:
>
>     1.  Should I buy a sand wedge or a lob wedge?  My game is not back to the

Exactly what is the problem with your old wedge?  Sure it can't be fixed?
I remember seeing Billy Casper in the 1976 Byron Nelson hitting irons
that he must have gone on the tour with.  Totally disgusting Wilson Staffs 
with no grooves left in the center.  Looked like a renter set.

I'd go with another a sandwedge, myself, rather than the lob wedge.  A
sand wedge seems more important than another regular wedge, but that's only
my opinion.  I don't know your expertise, but the benefits of the extra
wedge are minimal at doubledigit handicaps. Once again, just an opinion.
(I'm a 5, up from a 0.)


>     2.  Should I match the wedge to my irons, or if I find another one I like
>should I buy it?
>
Get one that feels right without regard to matching your other clubs.  
Benefits of a matched set only come into play on full shots, for the 
most part, where the swing weight and flex are significant factors.
Sand wedges are heavier, anyway, and sometimes have an 
entirely different type of shaft from the rest of set that it goes with.  
A sand wedge is only matched with the rest of the set in appearance.

Generally, a thin-flanged, medium-to-low bounce sand wedge is best.  The
monster flanges are useless for many types of lies in the sand and also
for many types of sand (concrete for example).  Thin-flanged sand wedges
are more broadly serviceable.  Big flange, high-bounce sand wdges have
a tendency to go 150 yards, 10 feet off the ground, when you meant to hit 
them about 50 straight up. 8^)  


I have an old (1962?) Macgregor Tourney with a copper face.  Still works 
just fine.  Sometimes the best wedges are in the used club bucket, by
the way.  Thought I'd mention it.


-jim tims

Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: jeffrey@iti.gov.sg (Jeffrey Goh (Sch-NS KSL))
Subject: Re: Looking for club buying tips
Organization: Information Technology Institute, National Computer Board, Singapore.
Distribution:  world
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 06:15:24 GMT

In article <tom.724622334@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu> tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu (Tom McCain) writes:
>jeffrey@iti.gov.sg (Jeffrey Goh (Sch-NS KSL)) writes:
>: 	Cavity back, Perimeter weighting, etc.. seem to be in almost
>: 	all the sets I have looked at.  What else should I be looking
>: 	out for ?  
>
>This is pretty much true.  However, they are progressive perimeter
>weighted clubs.  There are also irons that are more of a cross between
>a bladed iron and a cavity back iron.  Hogan Edge and Powerbilt TPS
>Advanced come to mind.

I'm curious about these progressive perimeter weighted things.
Since cavity backs are more forgiving than blades, does this 
mean that progressives are more forgiving than blades but less so
than cavity backs ?  

If so, then what advantages do these have over cavity backs, or is
it a matter of preference ?
- jeff

>
>--tom
>--
>	    Tom McCain            tom@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu
>
> While most peoples' opinions change, the conviction of their
> correctness never does.

Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: mftjs@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (T. Jerry Scott)
Subject: Re: good, cheap oversized drivers?
Organization: Educational Computing Network
Distribution: rec
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 13:19:05 GMT

In article <7169@ucsbcsl.ucsb.edu> 6500sky@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu (Frank Sky) writes:
>Can anyone suggest to me a good quality oversized
>driver for less than $100?
>
There are lots of these.  At most club builders, they cost about
$85-$99.  MIne has a red firestick shaft in it, and looks just like the
Bertha, except it is not as shiny.  Every city has such a shoppe.

Have a nice holidays.

=====================================================================
Thomas J. Scott  (aka Dr. J.)			Phone: 309-298-1452
Western Illinois University			mftjs@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu
From: lhuber@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Lee Huber)
Subject:  Re:    wedge advice
Originator: lhuber@troon.ncsa.uiuc.edu
Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp App (NCSA) @ University of Illinois
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:35:57 GMT


In article <92345.145954IVERS@auvm.american.edu>, <IVERS@auvm.american.edu> writes:
|> I have followed the two wedge/three wedge debate with interest.  Now I need
|> some advice on this matter myself.
|> 
|> I need to replace my sand wedge, a 16-year old Lynx tiger.  I now play Lynx
|> Predator Golds (2-pw), which I love, but I am open to adding a different model
|> (Parallax) or brand (I've heard excellent things about the Cleveland Classic
|> and Taylor Made sand/lob wedges).
|> 
|> Here are my questions:
|> 
|>      1.  Should I buy a sand wedge or a lob wedge?  My game is not back to the
|> point (I laid off at 22; dove back into it last year at 30) that I can justify
|> three wedges.  I am a competent sand player, better than average to good
|> chipper, average to below average pitcher, and a full pw well (high, fairly
|> accurate, 95-110 yds.)
|> 
|>      2.  Should I match the wedge to my irons, or if I find another one I like
|> should I buy it?
|> 
|>      3.  For golfers returning to the game; golfers who love the game but are
|> not low-handicappers yet or may never be; and golfers simply awed by the lure
|> and frustration of the game, read David Owen's piece in the November Esquire,
|> "Letter From Golf Camp."
|> 
|>       Thanks in advance for the help.
|> 
|>                                    -- Gregg Ivers


1.  Buy a sand wedge with some bounce if you are only going to carry 2 
wedges and play courses with sand traps around greens.  It is very tough to 
hit consistent sand shots unless your wedge has a wide flange and ~10 degrees
of bounce.  Personnally, I play Ping Eye-2's and have the matching 56 deg. SW.  It 
works very well for me both from the sand and from most fairway or rough
lies from about 85 yd. in.  The bounce only causes me problems from very
tight fairway lies or hardpan.  I have found that by practicing with the SW
from various distances 15 to 85 yd it is possible to get the "feel" for 
how hard you need to hit it.  A lob wedge is harder to learn to hit consistently,
not as effective out of sand, and will leave a bigger gap than I like between
it and the PW.

2.  Either way could work for you.  Having the SW with the same look and not 
too much greater swing weight than your irons makes it easier to adjust to in 
my opinion.

3.  That is a good article.

Hope you get a nice new SW for Christmas.

Lee Huber
Champaign, IL

o
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: whitley@mksol.dseg.ti.com (harlon whitley 952-2342)
Subject: Re: What does a golfer want for Christmas?
Organization: Texas Instruments, Inc
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 19:41:32 GMT

One of my worst golf gifts is/was these three
pieces of soap in the form of golf balls, along
with these plastic tees in the form of a naked
woman.  One would think that tees with naked
women would help keep you head down, :>>, but
you can't see the tee for the ball. :>>>

Happy Holidays!

Harlan
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: ckf@f16.cray.com (Charles K. Foley)
Subject: Dave Pelz Golf Research info.
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 21:29:46 GMT

Recently someone on this newsgroup requested contact information for
Dave Pelz Golf Research.  I was interested in this also since I was looking
for the Pelz Tracline Putting Track.  I searched a number of places for the
info and I finally tracked it down.  It seems that the company has been
bought and sold a number of times butt it now is located in Austin, Texas
and goes by the name of Independent Golf Research.  They can be reached
by telephone at: (512) 261-6493.

I was told that the only product they sell now is the Putting Track ($59.95
plus shipping).  None of the other equipment mentioned in Dave Pelz's
putting book is available.

The person who was looking for this info originally was trying to locate
the putter with the rails around the sweetspot (any mishit would send the
ball off in the wrong direction, thereby teaching you to hit the
sweetspot).  It's not available from Pelz (I recall reading that the putter
was ruled non-conforming by the USGA since it could be modified during
play), but I have seen something similar advertised in the back of Golf
Digest: it is a set of rails that can be taped to the face of your own
putter.  If I see it advertised in my next issue, I'll post the 
information.

Regards,

chuck

--
Charles K. Foley, Ph.D.
Cray Research, Inc.
P.O. Box 12746
Research Triangle Park, NC 27709			ckf@f16.cray.com
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: 21329JMK@MSU
Subject: Re: 6 Re: What does a golfer want for Christmas?
Organization: Michigan State University
Date: 18 Dec 1992 11:25:31 EST

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
>For all of you guys out there, have a nice Christmas.  My group will
>spend 5 days at Myrtle Beach this year, playing the 5 best courses there
>for a fee of $52 per day, which includes Motel room, breakfast, cart,
>and green fees.  The motel is right on the Atlantic.

Which courses and what motel?

Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
From: ws7111@albnyvms.bitnet
Subject: new subscriber
Reply-To: ws7111@albnyvms.bitnet
Organization: University of NY at Albany
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 06:13:14 GMT


Hi, just wanted to see what was on net.
                            Thanks,
 			Danny Noonan
			Bushwood C.C.
From: bhoughto@sedona.intel.com (Blair P. Houghton)
Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf
Subject: Re: new subscriber
Date: 16 Dec 1992 17:14:29 GMT
Organization: Intel Corp., Chandler, Arizona
NNTP-Posting-Host: alfalfa.intel.com

In article <1992Dec16.061314.11045@sarah.albany.edu> ws7111@albnyvms.bitnet writes:
>Hi, just wanted to see what was on net.

There are two possible answers to your interrogative:

    1.  Sorry, everything posted here is on spec; and,

    2.  Sorry, you want rec.sport.basketball or rec.sport.tennis.
	But we do have some lovely lawn, if you like...

				--Blair
				  "Sorry."