HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: About clipless pedals
Date: 5 Nov 92 21:24:12 GMT
Article-I.D.: netcom.1992Nov5.212412.25670
Distribution: usa
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)

Geez, let's not get paranoid.

A clipless pedal system is much safer than a toe-clip/cleated shoe
system if you are solidly attached -- in other words, if you have
the straps pulled down _tight_.

If you ride with the straps loose enough to be able to pull your feet
out of the clips, then it is probably marginally safer to use clips
and cleats.

Maybe the safest of all is Jobst Brandt's use of touring shoes and
Shimano SPD's. Brandt is showered with complimentary stories about
his technical ability and expertise whenever I talk to people who
actually know him, so don't let his written persona put you off. He
is a well rounded and very experienced rider who's recommendations
should carry lots of weight. Like his bike. :-)
From: marc@hpsanaeo.nsr.hp.com (Marc Lee)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Avocet Low-Speed Inaccuracy
Date: 6 Nov 92 22:57:18 GMT
Article-I.D.: hpsdlss3.1det8eINN2mu
Distribution: world
Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsanaeo.nsr.hp.com

I think I remember a similar posting awhile back, but I didn't read it, so
at the risk of being redundant:

I have an Avocet 40 which gives extremely inaccurate speed readings (on the
low side) at speeds lower than 10mph.  I tried changing the magnet ring, which
didn't help.  The gap between the ring and the sensor doesn't seem to affect
this either -- it's still inaccurate even when the gap is zero!  Can anyone
help?

Marc Lee
San Diego Sales Office
From: jtyl@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (BJ)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Chain suck
Date: 6 Nov 92 15:26:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <BxA3tw.83C@news.iastate.edu>, twjm8@isuvax.iastate.edu writes...
>Here is my mystery:

>problem with chain suck until lately.  I bought an MB-1 about 6 weeks ago
>(yeah, the bug bit me good) and have had chain suck a couple times....
>Tonight, when looking at the bike upside down, I was goofing around pedaling
>the bike in the small-small gear.  It looks to me like the chain hits the 
>rear derailleur cable and bounces towards the chain rings when the chain 
>falls off the inner ring.  When the chain gets between the cable and the
>inner ring, the chainring bolts try to pull the chain into the chain suck
>position.  Is this the cause of my chain suck?  If so, can I get another 
>cable routing device to go beneath my bottom bracket that would route the
>cable further away from the inner chainring?  Anyone else have experience
>with this?  (I can hardly believe I'm treading new ground here.)

When my Specialized bike with XC-pro /MD was brand new, I experienced the
worst case of "chain-dropsies" anyone could ever imagine.  During one
22 mile mtb race, I had to get off my bike and put my chain back on at
least half a dozen times.  (We won't discuss my race time.)
Here's what I did to completely eliminate the problem.

1. I shortened the chain by a link or two.  This increased the overall
chain tension, making the chain less likely to fly off the small
chainring in a panic downshift.  Now my rear derailleur cage is fully
stretched when the gears are in the big-big ring/cogs.  This seemed to
help the dropsies immensely.

2.  I tighten down on the crank bolt a half to a 3/4 turn.  This placed
the chainrings closer to the centerline of the bike, smoothing out the
chain line.  Also a noticeable reduction in frequency of dropsies.  An
extra benefit is also smoother shifting in the granny gears.

3.  After the first two steps, chain dropsies occur only very rarely...
say, maybe once every 4 or 5 outings.  To rid the last residual occurances
of dropsies, I got myself a "Third-Eye Chain Watcher".  It's a $6 gizmo
that you attach to frame next to the chainrings and prevents the chain from
falling off the small ring.  I have not had a single chain dropsie or suck
from that day on.

One last possible cure that I never needed to use:  try switching to
a longer derailleur cage.  A longer cage can take up slack on a chain
much better than a short cage derailleur that is found on MB-1's.
+------------------------------------------------------------+
|               O               /^^*  *  O  ^^\              | 
|              /\,            /^    *   <|<   *^\            |
|             -\ -       /^^^^ /^^\    / \\  *   ^^\         |
|              /(*)  /^^^   /^^    ^  * \//    /^^\ ^^^\     |
|  \___Q    (*) /^^^^   /^^^   BJ Lau     \\   *   ^^\  ^\   |
|  /\ /\    ^^^ ^       jtyl@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu     ^   ^^\|
+------------------------------------------------------------+
From: shiba@riffnique.csd.sgi.com (Richard Shiba)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Ritchey Tires
Date: 5 Nov 92 20:50:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA

In <96240@netnews.upenn.edu> fhuang@eniac.seas.upenn.edu (RECKLESS ABANDON) writes:


>   Anyone have any opinions on Ritchey tires (mainly the W.C.S. ones).

	i like the Ritchey tires.  WCS series tires usually have
	an identical non-WCS model, the only difference being weight.
	(and maybe cost)  The weight savings is accomplished by using 
	a lower density rubber.  Thus WCS tires wear out in a big hurry.  	
	If you're concerned with weight, the short life and extra $$
	may be worth it.  If you don't care about weight, i'd just use
	the standard Ritchie tires.

>Also, what about the I.R.C. and Tioga tires?
 
	never used either of these brands.

		-rich
From: slo@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Loughran)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 14:42:59 GMT
Subject: Re: SPDs and Snow
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech


Use SPD in Snow? Why? You'll have to wear thin little bike shoes instead
of lightweight hiking boots with 3 pairs of socks.

Not only do these keep your feet warmer, but you need to get a good
kicking action when you're trying to get you and your bike up
a 25% slope of iced-over stream.

Mind you, even normal pedals aren't compatible with a pair of articulated
crampons. Maybe Look, who do ski-bindings too could come up with some
pedal bindings to take ski mountaineering boots so that you could get
off the bike and fit your skis or crampons for the technical bits.

Anyone tried using an ice axe for braking/steering on a bike yet?
I bet they're quite good for a deterrent in "technical traffic conditions" too.


	-Steve

ps. yes I know it rarely snows in Bristol but I am heading to the Scottish
Mountains for Xmas...
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Trailer with infant and toddler
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 02:07:34 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.134521.12093@waikato.ac.nz>
waldrond@waikato.ac.nz writes:
 
>Has anyone successfully hauled 2 children in a Burley trailer when the
>younger one is only 3 months old?   We have a 3 month old and a 2 year old
>and I'm looking for a way to put them in there, so that they'll both
>be comfortable. When we had only one 3 month old, we just put her in the
>car safety seat and strapped the car safety seat inside the trailer.
>There isn't enough room for the car safety seat and the 2 year old in the
>trailer. The 3 month old can't sit up by herself, so she needs some
>support.  What's the solution?
>
>Thanks,
>Dan
>waldrond@ruakura.cri.nz
 
We had a similar problem, but with a Bugger.  I basically made a thin
walled car seat to cradle the kid.  In particular, I took a rectangular,
plastic wastebasket (about 6 by 12 inches at the base, and about 18
inches tall) and cut off one of the narrow sides, tapering the cut
back along the wide sides toward the top.  I then strapped this like
a car seat to one side of the passenger compartment of the trailer,
tilted back enough so that the little one is half reclining when in
its seat.  A seat belt (through the back of the seat, and fastened to
the frame of the trailer) keeps the kid from crawling out.  A thin
pillow, folded in half around the kid's head wedges the head between
the walls of the seat; with one side of the wastebasket missing, the
walls are now quite flexible, but still rigid enough to hold up the
kid.  We used ours until the kid was 11 months old.  I suspect that
a similar arrangement might well work for a Burley.  (Had you asked,
I would have given you ours when you visited here two weeks ago.)
 
..Richard E+17
 
 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: polish@cs.columbia.edu (Nathaniel Polish)
Subject: looking for Franklyn Cycles...
Organization: Columbia University Department of Computer Science
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1992 20:44:45 GMT

Any help would be appreciated.

Nat Polish
polish@cs.columbia.edu


Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler)
Subject: Re: About clipless pedals
Organization: Novell, Inc. - Walnut Creek
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 18:10:27 GMT

In article <9167@blue.cis.pitt.edu.UUCP> jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis) writes:

[ lots of clipless pedal / shoe stuff deleted ]

>	Speaking of shoes, does anyone have any opinions on the Specialized
>Dirt Dogs on sale in the nashbar catalog for $29.00?  What kinds of pedals
>are they compatible with?  They look almost exactly like my Pro Dogs, except
>they are supposed to have a more "walkable" sole. 

The ones that Nashbar is blowing-out are compatible with most mtb-type
pedals.  They work better with pedals where the rear cage it taller than
the front one.

The shoes are pretty good.  Specialized had lots of problems with the
first version; uppers blowing-out seams, cleats that would only fit
a few pedals, etc.  The newer ones are better.  Unfortunately, they
lack the laces of the first-generation model.  This is, however, easily
solved with a good hole-punch (see your local shoe repair shop).  The
soles *are* pretty "walkable."

>
>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>James Gourgoutis       				   
>Mechanical Engineering                                O   
>University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
>e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
>	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
>Thanks!           			   "Why am I so late?  It took me 
>					    25 minutes to decide which bike
>					    to ride!" 
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
>-- 


--
Mark Chandler               Novell, Inc.          510/975-4522
chandler@wc.novell.com      Walnut Creek, CA
==================================================================
     The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's.
From: casseres@apple.com (David Casseres)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: quick-release skewer failure?
Date: 11 Nov 92 18:28:44 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Apple Computer Inc.

In article <1992Nov03.164354.22065@ima.isc.com>, joe@ima.isc.com (Joe
Chapman) wrote:
> 
> I had a quick-release skewer fail on me last week--it snapped as I
> was reattaching my front wheel.  This was the first time this has
> happened in ~20 years of riding on QR hubs, and the only plausible
> cause I could think of was a bent fork tang, which was not in
> evidence.
> 
> I'd be tempted to dismiss the incident as a freak occurrence, were
> it not for the presence of the legend "OPEN" and "CLOSE" on the QR
> lever; any mind so debased as to adorn a noble vehicle with such twit
> directives is certainly capable of specifying the use of anodized
> linguine in a critical component.  (Nashbar would probably flog such
> a thing as "our most technical high-carb hub", but I digress.)
> 
> Any comments (a) containing a possible reason I may not have considered,
> or (b) claiming that QR failure isn't as rare as I think?

I'm not sure I see how a bent fork tang could make the QR break; in fact,
short of using a hammer to close the lever, it's hard for me to see how
anything but a manufacturing defect could be the cause.

Here's my own experience.  A good-quality QR broke as I was closing it, and
I found that where the rod screws into the lever there were only about
three threads on the rod; these had stripped.  It was a few mm too short,
apparently, and had gone through the automatic threading machine and the
rest of the manufacturing process without getting noticed.

Wheelsmith replaced it instantly with a new skewer, even though they had
not sold it to me in the first place, and now I inspect my QR's as a matter
of routine.

--

David Casseres
Exclaimer: Wow!
From: keng@zcar.asd.sgi.com (Ken Greenebaum)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Glasses mounted rear-view
Date: 11 Nov 1992 23:27:08 GMT
Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc.  Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: zcar.asd.sgi.com

I have been using an eyeglass frame mounted mirror for years (10+).  Yes 
you do have to 'scan' by moving your head to take in a large field of view. 
However I 'scan' often since I don't have to take my eyes off of forward
traffic.  This gives me at any given time a much better idea of what is
behind, and soon to be passing me.  I do look over my shoulder before
attempting to merge, etc.

My mirror recently became lose.  Road shock would change its adjustment.

To fix it, I simply dissasembled it and retentioned the ball joint.

Very recommended...


								-Ken

BTW People occasionly walk up behind me and wave to see if I notice when
    I am wearing it away from my bike.
From: sery@crunch.unm.edu (sery)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Symmetric rear hub
Date: 11 Nov 92 19:49:37 GMT
Organization: /usr/local/lib/rn/organization

Jobst Brandt writes:
>
> [... stuff deleted ...]

>The result of this "fix" is that crank axles have more overhang than
>before, ground clearance in corners (from wider pedal spacing) has
>been diminished, rear axles have become wider with more overhang and
>we can boast of more gears.  I am certain that some of these gears are
>unnecessary and are sold by playing on the fears of riders who believe
>they may run out of gears.  In fact the durability is being sacrificed
          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>and those who stress their bike reap more axle failures and pedal
>grounding than before.  Some of these people are willing to replace
>this equipment frequently, either because the expense is not
>significant, or they are sponsored by someone who picks up the tab.

It's not just a matter of "running out of gears".  That extra gear can be
used to either increase the range or to decrease the gaps between gears.
That, to me, is more important than the decreased longevity.  That extra 
gear helps to optimize my limited abilities a little bit more and is worth
the extra expense. 

Paul Sery
Albuquerque, NM
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: "Paul Esposito Jr." <wk01155@worldlink.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Road Rash (WAS Clinchers vs. Tubular)
Organization: Performance Systems Int'l
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 03:24:46 GMT
X-Mailer: WORLDLink (3.11)

Performance used to sell a product from Cramer (makers of Atomic Balm of 
jock strap fame) called Suds(?). It was supposed to assist in removing 
grit from strawberries caused by sliding in baseball or astroturf burn. 
I bought mine after my wife and I took a dive on the tandem on a back 
road about 10 miles out in the middle of nowhere. We have yet to use the
product, but I remember having the coach spray me with it in high 
school. It worked.


paul....
wk01155@worldlink.com

My wife is the Electonic Weapons Officer. Doggie phaser set to stun.
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 21:52:21 GMT
Subject: Re: Symmetric rear hub
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

James Scott writes:

> I'm interested in building a non-dished rear wheel.  Do any
> manufacturers make symmetric road hubs?  I'm looking for a rear hub
> whose flanges are not offset to accommodate a freewheel.

Hold it, just a minute.  Let's first examine why wheels have "dish" or
an offset hub in rear wheels.  The complement of sprockets on the rear
axle are laterally located to be centered on the chainwheel of the
cranks.  This is intended to minimize the angle the chain must be
skewed to run across front to rear sprockets that are not directly,
one in front of the other.  In addition, when the chain is on the
outermost (smallest) sprocket in the rear the chain line should not
overlap the crank as it rotates.

For these reasons, the freewheel cluster is located in a specific place
on the rear axle.  After arriving at this location, it should become
apparent that the hub flanges either become displaced or move
perilously close together.  With the advent of eight speed clusters,
both of these events have occurred.  To make up for this geometric
deficiency, cranks have been moved farther apart and chainwheels moved
farther to the right in order to give the hub some relief.

The result of this "fix" is that crank axles have more overhang than
before, ground clearance in corners (from wider pedal spacing) has
been diminished, rear axles have become wider with more overhang and
we can boast of more gears.  I am certain that some of these gears are
unnecessary and are sold by playing on the fears of riders who believe
they may run out of gears.  In fact the durability is being sacrificed
and those who stress their bike reap more axle failures and pedal
grounding than before.  Some of these people are willing to replace
this equipment frequently, either because the expense is not
significant, or they are sponsored by someone who picks up the tab.

Fortunately, many of these "24 speed" bikes only tour the main, or
hang on the garage wall, so there really is no problem.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: tlt38517@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: deore lx opins
Date: 5 Nov 92 02:03:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: news.Bx80DC.8tw
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana

msw10@nepenthe.as (Michael S. Wong) writes:
>Not true. LX also provides "Rapidfire+" shifters and "dual-SIS" chainrings.
>although I may be wrong in saying that *only* LX has this as I saw a picture
>in this months MBA of an XT bike which had the same function.
>Michael Wong.
>msw10@ras.amdahl.com
I really don't see this as a big deal.  Especially since I still prefer thumb
shifters.
-Terry
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: javier@cs.toronto.edu (Javier Pinto)
Subject: Re: Glasses mounted rear-view
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Toronto
Date: 11 Nov 92 19:29:46 GMT

richard@pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) writes:
>>
>>HE>1. Have any experience with these?
>>
>>I got such a device a year or so back, and used it for perhaps a week.

>I got one from Nashbar a couple days ago ($6.95).  I've used it for
>a couple of hours and don't intend to use it any more.  What a pain.

I had a pair and liked the concept a lot. The ones I got where 'The third
eye' or some such a name. I used them until the were no longer usable. One
difficulty is that they have to be adjusted very often and eventually the
plastic wears out and they lose adjustability. Then I changed for a helmet
mounted mirror and used it until I crashed badly (the least of the problems
was that the mirror was shattered). The helmet mounted model did not have
to be adjusted much.

To the point (sorry for rambling), I strongly recommend them. Takes
sometime to get used to them. Lets you keep informed of what's behind with
a very minor twist of your head. It is much better than the handlebar types
(IMNSHO, of course). As somebody said sometime ago, you might find
yourself looking for the mirror when walking around.

Good luck!

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sjc@borland.com (Steve Correll)
Subject: Re: Summary: rebuilding Look pedals
Originator: sjc@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 20:33:14 GMT

In article <1992Nov10.182036.25947@borland.com> sjc@borland.com (Steve Correll) writes:
>Recently I asked how to disassemble a Look pedal to repack the bearings, and
>promised to post a summary. I received no answers...

...until after I posted the summary. Thanks very much to Eric Raymond
<raymond@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov> and John Erhardt <jte@ihlpm.att.com>:

1. For the old style pedals with the screw on dust caps:

  First you need to take off the dust cap and locking nut or .  The new model 
  should be similiar.  The spindle should have a few mm of side-side play now.
  You can tap out the spindle.  I used a screw driver.  I guess for the new
  model you could hold the spindle in a vise and tap on the pedal body.
  One set of bearings may come out.  Mine have a ball bearing cartridge and
  a roller bearing cartridge.  If they're still in the pedal you either
  need to buy a $40 tool to remove them or go to a shop that has this tool.
  I'm sure you could then clean out the bearings and re grease them.
  However I've always had the opinion that once the bearings are out
  you should replace them.  I've learned this through problems I had with my
  bottom bracket.  Loose Screws (I don't have the number with me now) has
  replacement parts.I don't know if the bearing puller will put them back
  in, you might need another tool.

  However, I've noticed that after a year and a half of heavy use my Look pedals
  are fine.  I'm holding onto the replacement bearings I bought and will
  probably use them in a year or so.

2. Seems that there are a few different types of look pedals.  They have small
  ball bearings and a sleeve bearing (maybe two).

  I didn't even try to find a replacement for the sleeve bearing, but I
  cleaned it up (not any recognizable wear) before replacing it.  The
  bearings are the the same ones you would use in a headset (1/32 ???).

  Basically there is the standard locknut arrangement on the out side, a
  set of 14 bearings on the inner race, and then a roller bearing and 8
  ball bearings on the outer race.  Your mileage may vary though.

  You may need a special wrench to undo the knurled lockring on the
  inboard side of the pedal.  My pedals came with the tool.

  There was one really stiff split washer on the axle which I didn't
  remove for cleaning.  Think you need a special tool to get it on/off
  without bending it.

  It's not too bad a job.  Some tiny parts to deal with.  Probably took
  me less than an hour to do both pedals.  Make sure you note the order
  in which you remove things. 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: weird@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (john.t.erhardt)
Subject: Re: Mavic Drivetrains
Organization: AT&T
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:21:18 GMT

In article <1duqv0INNp2s@overload.lbl.gov> chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll) writes:
>David Casseres writes:
Actually I did ride the Cannondale road bike once.  The one that comes with 
Mavic components for a few minutes.  From what I remember the shifting was
crisp but I wasn't doing any power shifts or trying to shift while really
hammering.
Maybe I'll go back to that shop and try it out again.

John Erhardt