HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: breland@mcc.com (Mark Breland)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: getting Kalanchoe to bloom
Date: 1 Oct 92 14:12:06 GMT
Organization: MCC, Austin, TX

In article <10292274.69920.6071@kcbbs.gen.nz> Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) writes:
>mma@bellcore.com (Mary M Lau) writes:   
>>I brought a kalanchoe back in April and it bloomed  
>>for a couple of weeks indoor.  During the summer......  
>>dry out a bit to rest?  Is there anyway for me  
>>to get it to bloom like crazy again?  Do I need to  
>  
>Kalanchoe's only flower for a couple of weeks a year, sometime between  
>late winter and late spring. Either keep it indoors or plant it outside,  
>I wouldn't keep moving it back and forth if I was you, you could be  
>confusing it *8-)....   They are extremely hardy and very easy to  
>propagate from cuttings.  
>   

Weeelllll, I don't know about the couple weeks a year blooming thing.  Yes,
kalanchoe *are* extremely hardy, which is why I leave mine outdoors between
the last freeze of winter and the first of fall.  But the last two years, it
has bloomed continuously from March to September.  The trick I think is to
give it lots of water and diffused sunlight, and just not mess with it
otherwise.  You also might want to consider pruning it when you put it out
in spring and sticking the cut branches back in the pot for a thicker, bushier
plant.  They'll root by themselves, I always find "volunteers" on the
ground several weeks after a pruning session.

-- 

Mark A. Breland
breland@mcc.com  "...speaking only for myself, no others and vice versa etc..."
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: london@SunSite.unc.edu (Larry London)
Subject: 10/3/92 update of rec.gardens FAQ list files
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 07:35:14 GMT


This is the updated (Oct.3) listing of rec.gardens FAQ list files:

They are available for FTP from:

     sunsite.unc.edu
     
     Files are located in /pub/docs/sustainable_agriculture/recgardens;
     there should be no problem accessing any of them.      

Or request them from me via e-mail at:
(This process will be automated soon :-)

     london@sunsite.unc.edu 

---------------------------------------------------------

/pub/docs/sustainable_agriculture/recgardens:

----------------------------------------------------------
drwxr-xr-x  2    512 Sep 30 11:38 ben  (B.E.N. issues)
----------------------------------------------------------
-rw-r--r--  1   7269 Sep 27 00:58 bulbs.faq
-rw-r--r--  1  18008 Sep 27 01:02 fertilizers.faq
-rw-r--r--  1  25992 Oct  3 03:04 forcingbulbs.faq (NEW! from Kay Klier)
-rw-r--r--  1  15753 Sep 24 00:49 gardensoft.faq
----------------------------------------------------------
drwxr-xr-x  2    512 Sep 30 16:07 general (general info.)
----------------------------------------------------------
-rw-r--r--  1    987 Sep 27 01:04 peppers.faq
-rw-r--r--  1   7417 Sep 30 16:04 rootinghormone.faq
-rw-r--r--  1   6385 Sep 27 01:06 roses.faq
-rw-r--r--  1  36318 Oct  3 02:50 seedcats1.faq (NEW! from Kay Klier)
-rw-r--r--  1  34933 Oct  3 02:58 seedcats2.faq (NEW! from Jim Watts)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: pinky@milton.u.washington.edu (Robert Burbank)
Subject: Re: Natural squirrel controls
Organization: University of Washington
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 00:10:49 GMT

to keep the little beasties from my crocus bulbs and new 
bamboo canes i sprinkle lots of blood meal around them.
the little monsters keep their distance as long
as some is on the surface of the ground.  don't 
get me wrong, we feed them and love them but we also
love out bamboo and flowers
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: haines@eng2.eng.monash.edu.au (Andrew Haines, Civil, 1/113)
Subject: Mulching - stopping bird scatter - a hint that seems to work
Keywords: Mulch, birds
Organization: Faculty of Engineering, Monash University 
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 07:55:59 GMT

Anyone out there having problems with birds searching for worms/grubs under 
their mulch - and scattering it everywhere in the process?  I've had the 
problem - and thought I'd pass on a hint that seems to work.  (No claim to 
originality - I've pinched out of someone else's garden).

Basically you want to set up a barrier along the edge of the mulched bed, so 
that when the birds are scratching/flicking the mulch around it stays in the 
bed, and eventually gets moved by the birds back to the middle.  A cheap, 
effective, inconspicuous barrier is the black plastic mesh that is sold to 
keep leaves out of guttering.  (Such as GUTTER GUARD here in Australia - 
comes in rolls 10m long, about 15-20cm wide, mesh of 1-1.5cm).  Simply stake 
it on edge along the length of the mulched bed, and reduce your mulch raking/
path sweeping time by 90% !

It's worked wonders for me - I can now enjoy having blackbirds (European) in 
the garden again.  If you're not sure it'll work for you, do as I did and 
try it with one roll first.

Happy gardening,


Andrew Haines                       \ "You're all individuals!"
Computer Systems Officer              \ "WE'RE ALL INDIVIDUALS!"
Monash University, Melbourne, Australia \ "I'm not!" Monty Python:Life of Brian
From: ccaasal@ucl.ac.uk (Sally Lynch)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: ficus plants
Date: 5 Oct 92 10:14:44 GMT
Organization: Bloomsbury Computing Consortium

cf549@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jim Baker) writes:


>My sister in law recently moved to another state. She gave me a very healthy
>ficus tree. In a short few months, it has become a half naked mess. I happened to see this listing and thought someone out there might have some suggestions.
>If this is not the appropriate place for a posting of this nature, please feel
>free to forget you saw it. Thanks.

I think some ficus plants really hate to be moved. I was bought a weeping
fig which looked beautiful, but after a while behaved as though it had had
a nervous breakdown and dropped half its leaves. I was told to decide where to
put it and leave it there - keeping moving it to find somewhere it likes
just makes things worse apparently. It did recover and grew new little leaves
(until the summer when I forget to water it enough and it did the same again
- whoopsy - it's now recovering again!). I hope this helps, it probably
depends what sort of Ficus you've got.

Sally Lynch, University College London
email: s.lynch@uk.ac.ucl
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Anyone used GardenView 5.1 Landscape design software?
From: reed_mc@rpark.sdl.usu.edu (Reed McKenna)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 15:51:39 GMT
Distribution: rec.gardens
Organization: Utah State University (USU)
Keywords: landscape design software
Summary: Want review of any landscape design software.

I have been looking into landscape design software.  I have an acre of land 
and want to be able to update my landscape design easily.  I am interested 
in a computer program that will show me a 3-D view from any angle and "age" 
the plants to show me proportions of plantings at some future time.  
Gardenview 5.1 from MINDSUN does this plus will show appropriate colors for 
the season.  It costs $195.  What else is available?  Has anyone used 
Gardenview?

Thanks in advance.
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: What is it (red shrub)
Date: 30 Sep 92 04:12:13 GMT
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

Kay and Paul play 20 questions about a mysterious red shrub:
>>My best guess is one of the Euonymous species, perhaps E. japonicus??
>>E. bungeanus???
> 
> Doesn't look like the E. japonicus picture in Sunset, but from the
> description I guess there's a lot of variation, so I wouldn't rule it out
> completely.  No idea about E. bungeanus (the bungee cord plant?).
....
> 
> Thanks!  Do we have a mystery here?

I'd swear I'd seen it before.  Now if I can just get the right neurons to
fire (they've been on random-fire all day)...

Try: 
Cestrum nocturnum or C. diurnum   (jessamine)
Coprosma   (mirror plant)
Viburnum
Lonicera  (honeysuckle)
Osmanthus (fragrant olive)
Psychotria (wild coffee)
Ixora parviflora
Abelia
Milky sap?  Could it be a Codiaeum?
Tear a leaf and see if there are silky threads that spin from one side of
  a torn vein to the other (tear slowly).  That would indicate a Cornus
  (dogwood) 

The other possibility (and I hate to think it true given the precise nature
of your observations) is that we're dealing with a plant with pinnately 
compound leaves and opposite leaflets.

If none of the suggestions above help, and you can get hold of a cutting
with several leaves and a few flowers, flatten the cutting in a section
of newspaper, then roll it up (the cylindrical shape helps it withstand
mailing stresses) and mail it to me.  Yep, dry.  That way it doesn't rot.
The flowers are very important for ID.

Kay Klier
Herbarium
Dept of Biology
University of Northern Iowa
Cedar Falls, IA 50614-0421
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jrc@IEDV4.acd.com ( Janis Clark )
Subject: Re: DRYING PARSLY
Organization: Applied Computing Devices, Inc., Terre Haute IN
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 19:35:44 GMT

In article <1992Oct2.130019.4995@telerama.pgh.pa.us> kristen@telerama.pgh.pa.us (Kristen McQuillin) writes:
>janez@base.bellcore.com (Jane Zysk) writes:
>
>: 	Wow, that sounds like a pretty time/energy intensive
>: 	method.  Here's I've done for the last several years
>: 	with great success:  Cut as much Parsley, Rosemary,
>: 	Thyme, Basil, etc. as you want to dry (stems included).
>: 	Gather a bunch of the stems together and secure with
>: 	a rubber band.  Hang the bundle upside down in the house
>: 	out of direct sunlight and forget about it for several
>: 	weeks.  After the plant is all dried, the leaves just
>: 	crumble off.  I usually crumble the leaves over a cookie
>: 	sheet, 
>
>Here's an even easier way to remove the leaves from the stems: Put the
>dried herbs in a plastic grocery bag, tie the handles, and shake
>vigorously. The tiny bits stay in the bag instead of flying all over
>the room! Any stubborn leaves can be picked off by hand.

I've had good luck with a combination of the two methods above:
After gathering the herbs into bunches by the stems, I put them
tops down inside a paper sack and tie stems and the opening of
the sack together.  After that, I hang the sacks in a warm dry place,
usually from the tool shed or garage rafters until the herbs are 
dry.  The bags keep the herbs dust and bug free, and when the herbs
are thoroughly dry, any loose leaves are kept in the bag.  It 
seems to me that this was the recommended method in "Organic
Gardening" magazine.
 
Janis
-- 
	"Two roads diverged in the wood,
         and I,
	 I took the one less travelled by,
         and that has made all the difference."     - Robert Frost
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ramsey@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Brenda Ramsey)
Subject: premature bulbs
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 19:53:56 GMT

I recently purchased some Anenome, Ranunculous and "xxxx" bulbs
for "spring color".  Of course I planted them and now find that 
they have all sprouted and some are 3 inches tall.  Does this mean
that I am going to have flowers at Xmas rather than in the Spring?

-- 
Brenda Ramsey  (213) 825-3643
UCLA Computer Science Department
ramsey@CS.UCLA.EDU
..!(uunet,ucbvax,rutgers)!cs.ucla.edu!ramsey
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan)
Subject: Re: Cosmos Sensation reached 9 feet!
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1992 13:34:49 GMT
Distribution: usa
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center

When I asked about the shorter varieties "are the flowers as nice?",
I meant SHORTER COSMOS varieties! 
Of course I know there are lots of other kinds of flowers under
nine feet tall, and I've got two 70-foot borders full of them.
I'm now receiving lots of encouraging letters about growing begonias
and alyssum.   
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: grow@mindvox.phantom.com (George Row)
Subject: Re: a sick gift
Keywords: aphids
Organization: [Phantom Access] / the MindVox system
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1992 11:24:26 GMT

lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond) writes:
> 
> My neighbor gave me a cala lily with aphid looking things all over it. What
> should I do? (Don't say "get a new neighbor".)
 keep it away from other plants and spray with soapy water,
this will kill aphid looking things on contact so be sure to 
to cover the undersides of leaves etc so that it does mke
contact with all the pests, repeat a few days later if 
necessary.


George Row                  grow@mindvox.phantom.com  on internet
                            cfyx33@mgvax.ulster.ac.uk on Janet
University of Ulster at Magee College
From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Nursery Propagated Wildflowers
Date: 28 Sep 92 11:45:56 CST
Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City
Followup-To: rec.gardens

For $2 and a SASE you can obtain a list of sources for propagated United
States' native plants in your area from the Wildflower Center
Clearinghouse (NWRC, 2600 FM 973 North, Austin, TX 78725-4201).

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

Bob Batson
bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org
From: becker@cs.rochester.edu (Tim Becker)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Pruning Raspberry Bushes
Date: 29 Sep 92 19:04:57 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Sep29.190457.14486
Distribution: usa
Organization: Computer Science Department University of Rochester

In article <1992Sep25.194300.20006@col.hp.com> rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) writes:
>I just wanted to mention something that may not have been obvious from
>Mike's response - brambles are biennial plants.  The fruit only appears
>on the second year's growth, after which they will die back.  In other
>words, don't cut back any new growth unless it appears weak, because
>those are the canes that will fruit the following year.

I've read this before.  However, we cut our rasberry stalks down to
about 6 inches from the ground each year (when it's cold out) and we
get a good crop each year.  Anybody have an explanation for this
conflict?

Concerning yield amounts...  The person who gave me my original plants
told me to make sure I water "every night" -- esp. when they are just
starting to put out fruit.  He said that the plants will put out lots
more fruit.  I've seen this to be true.  We had a fairly wet summer
and we will probably get double what they usually produce.

Tim.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: getting Kalanchoe to bloom  
From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting)
Date: 1 Oct 92 19:25:20 GMT
Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand

mma@bellcore.com (Mary M Lau) writes:   
>I brought a kalanchoe back in April and it bloomed  
>for a couple of weeks indoor.  During the summer......  
>dry out a bit to rest?  Is there anyway for me  
>to get it to bloom like crazy again?  Do I need to  
  
Kalanchoe's only flower for a couple of weeks a year, sometime between  
late winter and late spring. Either keep it indoors or plant it outside,  
I wouldn't keep moving it back and forth if I was you, you could be  
confusing it *8-)....   They are extremely hardy and very easy to  
propagate from cuttings.  
   
 <--------------------------------------------->  
 < Kia Ora from Aotearoa. Pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz >  
 < Please DO NOT QUOTE more than 2 lines to me >  
 <--------------------------------------------->  
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: bednarek@picard.med.ge.com (Dennis Bednarek Mfg 4-6971)
Subject: Re: Carpet grass question
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 11:36:14 GMT

KELLY CHIANG-THAM (isckelly@nuscc.nus.sg) wrote:
: Our carpet grass which was newly 'laid' down 2 months ago is starting to
: show scattered patches of brown, like it's dried up.  Any suggestions
: for remedy?
: 
: Thanking in advance,
: Kelly

that is not unusual for fresh laid sod.  Usually it is an indication of 
either of two things.
1. that the soil was not adequatly prepared prior to sodding.  OR
2. there is not enough water to support this new grass that has not yet
	gotten a good working root system into the underlaying soil.

Suggestion water daily, and add a good starter fertalizer if it was not
	done prior to sodding.
--
------------------------------------
| Excuse me while I kiss the sky!  | 
|                            J.H.  |
____________________________________

The usual disclaimer of self and employer applies to all above comments.
#
From: harbirk@ifi.uio.no (Harbir Singh Kohli)
Subject: Florist Chain in Canada
Organization: Dept. of Informatics, University of Oslo, Norway
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 12:20:04 GMT
Originator: harbirk@slora.ifi.uio.no


Sorry for posting this here but I can't find any more appropriate, I tried
soc.culture.canada but it didn't work. 

I am wondering if there is a some flower shop/chain which does 
home deliveries in Mississauga(I can never spell it right)ONT, 
it is just outside Toronto, and will accept orders over the phone 
and charge to a credit card?

Also if there is anyone who knows about some cheap, places to stay
in Mississauga, I will be very grateful for that too. 


Thanks

  harbir
From: falk@peregrine.Eng.Sun.COM (Ed Falk)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Bonsai mailing list?
Date: 2 Oct 1992 23:33:34 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: peregrine

Hi all; is there by any chance a Bonsai interest mailing list?

ADVthanxANCE,

--
	-ed falk, sun microsystems -- sun!falk, falk@sun.com
	"What are politicians going to tell people when the
	Constitution is gone and we still have a drug problem?"
			-- William Simpson, A.C.L.U.
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
Subject: Re: BIOLOGICAL ALCHEMY
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 23:21:59 GMT
Reply-To: ahill@boi.hp.com
Organization: LaserJets by Bill & Dave
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3

mcelwre@cnsvax.uwec.edu writes:
<snip>
>
>                                    Robert E. McElwaine
>                                    B.S., Physics and Astronomy, UW-EC
> 
Well, you got the "B.S." part right, anyhow...
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: drip irrigation from a bucket?
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:54:23 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <1992Sep28.231906.8462@pony.Ingres.COM>, erickson@Ingres.COM (Rod Erickson) writes:
> Any references on a temporary, easy way to irrigate from a container of water?
> 
> I'm moving to a sunny, dry climate (Healdsburg CA), and want to get some vines
> started for visual screening.  When starting out, they'll need water at least
> daily; a drip system would greatly improve their chances of survival.
> The location doesn't permit keeping a hose in place.
> One day's storage capacity is a minimum; 4 days' would greatly expand our
> options.  Water conservation isn't a big issue, since we're on a good well.

You might consider sinking unglazed clay flowerpots with the drain holes
plugged next to the vines.  If you fill the pots with water, it will gradually
leak through the walls and keep things watered.   I actually made a series of
unglazed clay "cylinders with bottoms" in a pottery class (most useful
things I made!) just to help keep my whiskey barrels full of annuals watered
without taking up much space in the barrell.

Xref: sparky rec.gardens:7076 ba.general:3998
From: spider@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (kurt.krusinski)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,ba.general
Subject: roto-tilling hard clay
Keywords: east bay clay (rock)
Date: 29 Sep 92 18:11:34 GMT
Followup-To: rec.gardens
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

I'm wondering what the best time of year is for roto-tilling
hard clay, like that found all over the east bay.  Are roto-tillers
effective at all when the clay is hard & dry, like now?
I would hope to be able to chew up at least 4-6 inches, then lay some
good top soil down on top.  I would rent the tiller, so any suggestions
on size would be welcome....

Kurt Krusinski
Oakland, CA
kurtk@pc055b.att.com
From: chrisda@atlantis.CS.ORST.EDU (David Christensen)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Bulb suggestions
Date: 28 Sep 92 07:58:33 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Outreach Services - Oregon State University

I'm looking for suggestions for bulbs to plant this fall.  I live in mild
Western Oregon (zone 6) and have some prime space just opened up in a new
flower bed in the front yard (fairly sunny, well-prepared soil).  Having
gone the tulip/daffodil/bearded iris route already, I'm looking for some
interesting, possibly more delicate/unusual bulbs.  I've had something
called the "lenten rose" recommended for one.  I already have dwarf dutch
irises, and I *really* like those.  Any other ideas?

Thanks,
David  - chrisda@atlantis.cs.orst.edu
From: giraffe@altitude.Eng.Sun.COM (Ann E. James (Morgan))
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: When to prune grape vines
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:52:39 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Mt. View, Ca.
NNTP-Posting-Host: altitude

I have enjoyed this group for about a month now, but this 
is my first posting.  

I have a grape vine, white "seedful" variety.  My neighbor
planted it for me about 3 years ago.  This is the first 
season we have had a crop.  

My question is when do I prune it and how.  It has quite
a short stock ane branches out like a nut.  I would like
to get the stock a bit taller, and not have it go quite
so wild.  Can it be trimmed during the growing season or
should I only cut the branches when I am pruning?

Thanks in advance.

Ann
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: erickson@Ingres.COM (Rod Erickson)
Subject: drip irrigation from a bucket?
Keywords: water drip irrigation emitters
Reply-To: erickson@Ingres.COM (Rod Erickson)
Organization: Ask Computer Systems Inc., Ingres Division, Alameda CA 94501
Date: 28 Sep 92 23:19:06 GMT

Any references on a temporary, easy way to irrigate from a container of water?

I'm moving to a sunny, dry climate (Healdsburg CA), and want to get some vines
started for visual screening.  When starting out, they'll need water at least
daily; a drip system would greatly improve their chances of survival.
The location doesn't permit keeping a hose in place.
One day's storage capacity is a minimum; 4 days' would greatly expand our
options.  Water conservation isn't a big issue, since we're on a good well.

Is there an easy way to feed drip emitters from a container (bucket, barrel)?
Does this actually work?  (Low/variable pressure, etc).

(Apologies if this has been discussed recently.
 I'm pretty new to the newsgroup, and none of the FAQ's seem applicable.)

Thanks for any responses.  I'll summarize email replies.
-- 
	Roddy Erickson		(510) 843-6337		erickson@ingres.com		
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess)
Subject: Re: Lighting for indoor plants
Organization: SIlma Inc.
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 03:29:08 GMT

In <1992Sep26.201614.20604@serval.net.wsu.edu> rcrane@yoda.eecs.wsu.edu (Robert Crane - OTHER) writes:

>What I need is a light that puts outs out 100-140 microwatts per 10
>nanometer per lumen of blue spectra (440-495 nm)--what ever that means.
>Any help would be appreciated.  I'm completely clueless about
>good lights for growing indoor plants.

Try posting to [alt|rec|sci].aquaria. There are dozens of lighting
experts there that own planted aquaria and marine reef tanks.

I know there is a lamp known as Actinic 03 that puts out blue
at the photosynthetic wavelength but no red. Try also calling
the bulb manufacturers (GE, Phillips, Sylvania...)
800-555-1212.

Hope this helps. Why do you want the bulb anyway?
Andy
-- 
==============================================================================
Andrew A. Burgess            aab@cichlid.com              voice (408) 335 4779
==============================================================================