HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: landerson@jevex.waisman.wisc.edu
Subject: 70 Olds pushrod problem
Organization: Waisman Center, University of Wisconsin-Madison
Date: 22 JAN 93 16:03:33 CST

I have a 1970 Olds Cutlass with a 350 motor.  I recently installed a
Crane cam from Summit.  The lift is 456 and the intake and exhaust is 484.

After installing the cam we still noticed some valve lash.  A guy told
me to file down the rocker assembly's and that did take care of the
problem some.  I wasn't sure that was the best thing to do to solve
the problem.  Wouldn't that cause more damage in the long run?

Since the rocker assembly's were worn, I replaced them with new.  It
still has too much valve lash.

Of course I have heard many different opinions (different suggestions
from the Summet techs themselves).  What I would like is your opinion
on extended push rods.  I can't seem to find them anywhere and was told
that would solve my problem.  Do you think this is what it will take
before I dump any more money into this?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gjg2001@andy.bgsu.edu (Greg Gantzer)
Subject: Re: Oxygenated gas
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: bgsu
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 01:50:25 GMT

>    3) Do the magnetic "power booster" things that clip on to
>       fuel lines work as well with oxygenated gas?  (I can't
>       recall any brand names of these products, but basically
>       what they do is restore some positve charge to fuel.
>       Apparently negatively charged fuel is safer to transport.)
> 
> Please don't "flame" me.  Like I said, I'm new to the net, and like

You had better put on an asbestos suit real quick because you are going to
get flamed right off the net with this one.  One word describing these
power booster things--"Bullshit".  If they actually worked, don't you think
that every car manufacturer would install them on there vehichles to
increase power.

        __/__/__/__/  __/__/__/__/ __/__/__/__/
       __/                 __/    __/
      __/   __/__/        __/    __/   __/__/
     __/      __/  __/   __/    __/      __/
    __/__/__/__/  __/__/__/    __/__/__/__/
                gjg2001@andy.bgsu.edu
Posted-Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 13:08:10 -0600
Received-Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 13:08:54 CST
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 13:08:10 -0600
From: Matt Rein #3 <mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Replacing the Timing Belts at 60K miles
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Organization: mailEnteringNews at Honeywell SRC

> 	A friend hof mine has a Plymouth RS/Turbo (The same type of car as  
> Eagle Talon Tsi and Mitsbishi Eclipse). He drove the car so hard that it  
> reached its 60K line within 2.5 years. He was wondering whether he should  
> go ahead and replace the timing belt as recommended in the operation  
> manual, or wait as long as possible ?. He was so reluctant to do so  
> because  the dealer warned him to prepare for a two days job to get that  
> done. Consider the $54/hr cost of labor, that's going to be a Big charge.
> 
> 	Is there any sign (any particular noise) before the belt reaches  
> its termination? How much longer does a car like this could run well  
> without replacing the belt? 
> 
> Thanks for your info..
> 

A stupid question about not following, or better yet, not doing more
maintenance than recommended by the manufacturer doesn't deserve a
response but here goes.


Do you change your oil every 2 - 3 thousand miles or every 7000 miles like
the owner's manual says?  Remember the guy that wrote that manual is selling
cars.

Do you change the fluid and filter in your automatic transmission like the
manual says?  Or do you bitch when it needs to be rebuilt before 100k miles?

Do you change your drive belts in your driveway on a warm day when they
show signs of wear?  Or are you the person who chucks one on the road when
it is -20 with a windchill of -40?

Do you change your timing belt at (or before) 60k or do you let it break
on the road?

Are you just stupid or dumb?

Remember, no matter when or how you do it, if it breaks on the road it will
cost at least a tow ($60+) more than if you changed it before it broke
(plus the time it took you to walk to the phone and wait for the truck
plus the rental car while it is getting fixed).
Unless it breaks on the road AND you have a self-destructive engine in
which case you'll need to pay for a tow plus an engine rebuild.

Now what is cheaper???  $54/hr or ($54/hr + tow + new engine + rental car +
down time)

DA!

--
- Matt Rein
- mrein3@hp370d.cfsmo.honeywell.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
Subject: Re: Poor Economy--318 Mopar
Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 93 19:31:50 EST

In article <1jpakqINN7up@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com> tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
>
>For that matter, EGR helps fuel economy, too.  Was it removed
>or disabled before the engine was installed?

    NOT!  Diluting the intake mixture with burned/partialy burned
exhaust gas will only serve to reduce economy, since the fuel system
will have to compensate by adding more fuel.  Just disconnecting the
EGR _WILL_ reduce mileage, since the system will then tend to run
rich.

>
>Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>

                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo Hesitates/Stalls
Organization: CSU
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 13:40:31 GMT

>In article <2024@heurikon.heurikon.com>, jeffd@ex.heurikon.com (Jeff Durst) writes:
>>
>>	I bought a 1991 Ford Tempo GL brand new and back in November
>>	it started to intermittantly hesistate when warm at stop lights
>>	or stops signs.  It is always on acceleration that this occurs.
>>	It has also stalled three times since December 3.
>
 
  This shouldn't be the case w/ a new car - but you never know.  My
girlfriend's '86 Tempo was doing something like this and it was
just a clogged up fuel filter.  This was with 88,000 mi on it - but
if you got a batch of bad gas you could have gummed up the filter.
 
  I doubt this is your problem - but at least it is cheap to check.
 
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Martel               |
bob2@cua3.csuohio.edu    |  Lady luck must have been a wonderful girl
R1004@vmcms.csuohio.edu  |    -She's never been a friend of mine!
                         |                        Alan Parsons Project
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:46:49 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

OK. Here are some figures to support the "low mileage" of oxygenated
gas regardless of that "winter effect". I drove to Columbus, OH from
Wash., DC this past weekend, and have been using oxygenated gas exclusively
for the last several months, so when I started this trip, it was all
oxygenated. I drive a Celica turbo alltrack, which requires (recommended
anyway) 91+ octane gas. It had 87k on the odometer, and has had the
O2 sensor replaced recently and is in fairly good working order.

The gas tank holds 15.9 gallons, according to the manuals, of which
13.9 is about the max. usable volume. (This is important to show the
effects of the diluted oxygenated gas I experienced on the trip.)

All driving was pretty much highway, with some small portion of each
tank being city driving (<30 miles).

1st tank, 20.6 mpg - 241 miles, 11.7 gallons on fill-up, 100% oxygenated gas.
    driving was two 40 mile highway segments, w/ cool down of engine,
    and then continuous driving at about 65 mph.

2nd tank, 22.2 mpg - 251 miles, 11.3 gallons on fill-up, 26% oxy gas.
    driving was ~65 highway, with a 30 mile stretch of mountain driving
    to get to ski resort. (downhill was icy conditions - slow)

3rd tank, 24.2 mpg - 261 miles, 10.8 gallons on fill-up, 7.6% oxy gas.
    driving was ~65-70 highway, with 30-40 miles driven in Colombus.
    There were cool-down segments in Col.

4th tank, 26.5 mpg - 239 miles, 9.0 gallons on fill-up, assume non-oxy gas.
    continuous driving at 75-80, through the mountains.

It's pretty obvious that oxy gas is the culprit, as even driving at
higher speeds through mountainous terrain caused oxy gas to cut almost
25% off my mpg. Anybody know who we can write to to cancel this idiotic
approach to pollution control?

Ron

PS - the 26.5 mpg figure was a bit of a surprise, since the best previous
recorded mpg for highway driving was a little under 26 mpg, but this
was also the first time I did a continous drive at speed with only one
stop (bathroom:) before filling up.
From: shaig@Think.COM (Shai Guday)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo Hesitates/Stalls
Date: 22 Jan 1993 18:43:29 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: mickey.think.com

In article <1993Jan22.030956.22874@tandem.com>, norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott) writes:
|> 
|> You should not have to recreate it for them, if it happened recently
|> the trouble code for the problem is stored in the cars computer.
|> Ask them to run the engine diagnostic and tell you what codes the
|> computer spit out.  I am surprised they did not do this immediately.
|> It could well be that the idle speed control system is screwing up,
|> this happened on my '87 before.  Make sure they take a specific action
|> and record the results, such as "Engine computer diagnostic run,
|> revealed codes: XXX".  Don't let them refuse to take the car into the
|> shop and run the diagnostics.  Also, don't let them get by with just
|> adjusting crap, tell them to start swapping out components until they
|> find the problem if that's what it takes them.

While I agree with what you suggested, I have learned from my own
experience that their diagnostics leave something to be desired.
My car was fluctuating in RPMs from ~600 to ~1500 and occasionally
stalling.  They ran diags on it twice and no codes came up even though
the needle was fluctuating in a smaller range (range decreased when it
sat in idle for a while).  Even though the chief mechanic took a road test
with me and saw it flux, he couldn't tell me what was wrong.
They cleaned the sensor off-carb, and it helped but did not go away.
I finally took apart the thorttle body, cleaned it thoroughly,
tightened all the air hose fittings, and reset my computer.
It is now down to a reasonable flux of ~250 RPM at idle.

Moral of the story:  don't depend on the diags, as the FORD mechs
seem to come back with a standard reply: no codes = no problem.


-- 
Shai Guday              | Stealth bombers,
OS Software Engineer    |
Thinking Machines Corp. |	the winged ninjas of the skies.
Cambridge, MA           |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: windshield wipers
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 16:02:29 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.055442.2348@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes:
>>In article <1993Jan25.053722.22517@scott.skidmore.edu> jdrout@scott.skidmore.edu (JTD is lost) writes:
>>>yuri@amath.washington.edu (Yuri Yulaev) writes:
>>>> 	I need new wipers : my old ones too noisy and not very efficient
>>>> during good rain.
>>>> 	Yuri Yulaev
>
>	Try the Bosch wipers. Expensive, but worth it. Avoid by all means the triple-edge
>stuff advertised on TV. They are a rippoff IMHO.
>
>Christos.
      I'd kill for GOOD wiper blades. I've never seen Bosch wipers.
    Where do you get them ?

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bqueiser@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Brian J Queiser)
Subject: Taurus Technical Talk
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 15:55:45 GMT

Hey!  Does anyone out there get Taurus Technical Talk, a monthly
publication out of Dallas?  They advertise in the back of C/D or
AW (I can't remember which).  I sent for their free pamphlet, which
describes what they're about, but I was wondering if they'd really
be worth the $29 they're askin' for a year's subscription.  You
know, is it a page in length with a bunch of TSBs, or is it a magazine
filled with tons of info?

Anyone?  Anyone?

Regards,

Brian

bqueiser@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am the engineer, I can choose K.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Department of Engineering Mechanics
Ohio State University
Columbus, OH
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brims@bnkl01.astro.ucla.edu (George Brims)
Subject: Re: Natural Gas for Auto fuel.
Organization: UCLA Dept of Astronomy
Date: 21 Jan 93 09:49:11 PST

In article <1993Jan21.061820.19872@tfs.com> johns@tfs.com (John Stucke) writes:
>
>Hi All,
>
>I am looking for information on the use of Natural Gas for auto fuel.
>specifically I need information on how to convert an auto to use it.
This stuff is fairly common in the UK. In my student days I used to moonlight
with a security company that ran all its patrol vehicles on it. There was a
switch that let you flip back to petrol (gasoline) so you had a reserve, the
places you could fill up being a bit limited. Main advantages were: economy,
running costs were half as much per mile, a little extra power especially at the
top end, and the engines ran cleaner. The oil used to come out almost as clear
as when it went in, presumably there was less sooty carbon gunk in it. I assume
this would mean longer engine life but since they ran the vehicles for a year
then sold them with up to 70,000 miles on them I don't know about that!

George Brims
From: parker@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Disc brakes for 1st generation F-body?
Date: 22 Jan 93 10:38:05 EST


     A question to the Net regarding a Drum-to-Disc brake swap on a
first-generation ('67-'69) Camaro/Firebird:

     It is mentioned occasionally in Hot Rod and/or Car Craft, that
you can remove the spindles, calipers, and rotors from any GM A-body
(Chevelle, etc.) up through 1972, or any X-body (Nova, etc.) from 1968
through 1974, and swap these parts for the front drum assembly on
your F-body. Presumably you will need a disc-specific master cylinder
and proportioning valve as well.

     Is there any way I can use some combination of parts from a '75-'79
X-body, say the spindles, et al plus the upper and/or lower A-arms as well?
Does anyone know what changes were made in the X-body front suspension
starting on the '75 models? The Mitchell interchange manual shows a different
part number for '75-'79 spindles.

     I will be parting out my '75 Buick Skylark (Nova-clone) in the spring
and sure would like to use those discs on my '69 Firebird. BTW, if anyone
is interested I will have a slightly used ADDCO rear stabalizer bar setup
for the '75-79 X-body for sale cheap.


                                                Gary Parker
                                                Project Engineer
                                                Allen-Bradley Company
                                                Highland Hts, Ohio

E-Mail: parker@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: (Datsun Z) Suspension Work on 240
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 25 Jan 93 01:25:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> to replace the struts and springs.  The driver's side sags terribly,
-> so I guess that the springs have sprung.

 Don't forget to check the bushings, particularly the ones at the top of
the struts.


-> I've been checking out the catalogs, and I see a lot of the KYB
-> struts.  Are these things really as good as they say they
-> are?

 Yes.  Get the Gas-A-Just, which are DeCarbon patent models.


->   Is it worth it to put in the KYB compared to the Wal-Mart
-> specials? ($45 as opposed to $25-30)

 Long ago, back when I started using KYBs, I paid $95 each.  They were
worth every penny - and 15 years later, they're still like brand new.
                                                                           
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gwb@philabs.philips.com (Gert Bruning)
Subject: Old Mustang GT oil leak
Followup-To: gwb@philabs.philips.com
Summary: Need inexpensive fix
Keywords: oil leak, head gasket, oil pan
Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff Manor, NY.
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:07:07 GMT

During this winter a slow oil leak has turned leaker on our 82 GT. I think
it is leaking out between the passenger side cylinder head and engine block
gasket and also through the oil pan gasket. It is not an enormous amount but
now the car will leave a few drips on the ground whenever it is parked
somewhere. 
I am looking for a cheap fix since the car is old and I checked to see what
is required to replace both the head gasket and the oil pan gasket (major
plumbing jobs!!!). I am willing to try oil additives or go to a thicker grade
oil or both but am not sure how far. The car's engine oil is replaced about
every 3000miles including the oil filter. I have always used 10W30 oil.
Thanks for your help.

Gert   gwb@philabs.philips.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: MG carb question
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Distribution: rec.autos.tech
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 23:19:57 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.220550.10595@ac.dal.ca> rwinham@ac.dal.ca writes:
>In article <hellmann.728021357@sycamore.cs.scarolina.edu>, hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann) writes:
>> 
>> I am about to come into possession of a 1974 MGB.  I understand they
>> have some sort of dual side draft carb on them.  Can anyone give me an
>> opinion on how hard these are to tune to each other?  I can rebuild any
>> Holley you put in front of me, but I was sort of intimidated by this MG
>> carb. 
>Don't be. British carbs are generally dead simple, being the same design
>as many motorcycles have. Unless I'm mistaken, your carbs will have an 
>oil-damped dashpot on top, with a screw-off cap. This oil acts as a
>damper for a combination throttle slide and jet needle that responds 
>automatically to the vacuum in the carb throat. The throttle is 'downwind'
>of this slide/needle arrangement, and does nothing but restrict air flow
>as needed. I've never tuned dual SU's, but I can tell you that if they're
>like the one on my Mini, there's an adjustment on the underside for the
>needle jet, to raise and lower it in relation to the needle. This will set
>your overall mixture. The only other adjustment to be made is to synchronize
>the throttle valves so they are letting the same amount of air past...for 
>this you will need an airflow measuring device, called a Uni-syn, which 
>costs about $20. from a performance auto shop. Follow the instructions that
>come with it, and adjust your throttle linkages accordingly.
>If you can lay your hands on a manual, it'll help a lot to illustrate how
>they work. Oh, and make sure the oil levels in the dashpots are correct
>before you start. Good luck!

	Whitney/Warshawsky sells some pointer-type synchronizers for
about $10...consists of rods that slip on to the tops of the pistons
(oil cap off) and bend at 90 degrees to make sure the pistons
are at the same height.  Unfortunately, the ideal way to tune
(both the rod and uni-syn methods) is to do it under load, 
which is out of the question for most of us...

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dd@ra.cs.umb.edu (Dave Dunbrack)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 1978 Trans Am needs your help!
Date: 25 Jan 93 23:08:25 GMT
Organization: University of Massachusetts at Boston, Dept of Math and CS


  One thing I forgot to put in my last reply to this message; for those
interested in getting the most performance from their Pontiacs (even
those with chevy engines and 301's) you should subscribe to High
Performance Pontiac magazine. It has everything you want to know
about your favorite ride and then some, written by some of the most
knowledgable people ever to turn a wrench on a Pontiac. If anyone is
interested, I can find the address (I don't have a copy here...), just
drop me some email (that is where I got the production figures for the
WW engine).

	Dave
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Help with older GM transistorized ignition
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:27:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> If I'm able to locate the reluctor, stator, etc., will these parts
-> fit in my current (single-point) distributor housing? Can I adapt
-> some of the parts from an HEI unit (eg reluctor and stator)?

 Yes.  And the HEI stuff will probably work too.


-> Was this ign system discontinued simply because of cost or were there
-> other problems? If my amplifier is toast, are the parts available to
-> fix it? How can I test the amplifier?

 GM had it as an option from mid '60s onward.  If you have trouble
finding parts, don't forget to check with a GMC truck dealer.  Sometimes
they have parts the Chevy places don't.


-> think the HEI will fit if I manage to put one back (I know HEI won't
-> fit with Pontiac tri-power setups)  3) The HEI would look
-> out-of-place in

 You can install the reluctor and pickup from the HEI in any GM
distributor with a little fiddling.  You can mount the HEI's module
underneath the distributor or any convenient place, and use a regular
coil.
                                                                                                                  
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mjn@pseudo.uucp (Murray Nesbitt)
Subject: How about Wynn's? [was Re: How does STP oil treatment work]
Organization: Private system in Toronto, ON
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 04:39:20 GMT


> Sesh Murthy (murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU) wrote:
> : I bought some of the STP oil treatment and put it in my car. (It was
> : $.75 after rebates)  Does anyone know if/how this works.  
> : 

[Interesting comments on STP deleted.]

How about Wynn's engine treatment?
-- 
Murray
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nsx@chip.cba.ufl.edu (Mark Sterling)
Subject: Re: CRX Lost MPG
Organization: College of Business,  University of Florida
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 18:17:28 GMT

In article <ofN4C3S00UhW85Pr0b@andrew.cmu.edu> Christopher Bradley Devlin <cd1i+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:

>Have a 91 CRX w/35K miles, lost 4-6 MPG suddenly and has not returned
>after all relatively simple work done. i.e. plugs, air filter, etc.  Any
>help appreciated.

>Please respond to this account

>Thank you in advance

>Charlie

A cheap attempt would be to try some fuel injector cleaner.  I recently 
re-gained another 3 mpg on my '91 Civic LX when I noticed it had dropped.  
Maybe it was just a coincidence.  Though it had been about 7,500-10,000 
miles since I last used it.

Mark
NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu
From: dick@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Dick Lucas)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:48:06 GMT
Subject: Re: >>> how do i get taurus' antenna down? <<<
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Use a wrench and unscrew it.  The Taurus/Sable antennae (?) are a non-
retracting type.  Go to your local carwash and see what they do.  They usually
take it off so that it doesn't get ripped off by one of the brushes.

Dick Lucas  (2 Sable Wagons)