HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Molding
Date: 9 Nov 92 17:01:25 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <4134@bcstec.ca.boeing.com> mtw8527@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Mike Wallach) writes:
>What is the proper way to install/attach moulding to a surface/wall?
>Does it only need to be nailed up or should it also be glued/tacked
>so the moulding is flush to the wall thru out its run?
>If it should be tacked or glued what do you use?

I use 6d finishing nails. For base board, I drive one into each stud in
the wall just below the point where the moulding begins to form the top
fancy shaped edge (about 3/4" from the top edge). I leave a gap between
the floor and the bottom of the baseboard of about 1/8". If I'm going to
have carpet installed, I'll leave a larger gap and I'll drive a nail in
about 1/2" above the bottom of the trim in every other stud.

If the floor won't be carpeted, I install shoe moulding, driving nails
at approximately a 30 degree angle (whatever angle that hits something
solid). I put in nails wherever there's a gap.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
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                    | There are very few personal problems which
George Patterson -  | cannot be solved by a suitable application
                    | of high explosive.
                    |
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From: egreen@east.sun.com (Ed Green - Pixel Cruncher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Re: How to tell a REAL buyer's agent
Date: 10 Nov 1992 15:33:30 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, RTP, NC
Distribution: world
Reply-To: egreen@east.sun.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: laser.east.sun.com

In article 27521@news.arc.nasa.gov, jfouts@pioneer.arc.nasa.gov (Jeanne Fouts ACF) writes:
>
> If I had signed a contract,
>I would have not been able to switch to someone that I could work with.

Not true.  There is nothing (necessarily) binding upon you to use the
agent, only that the agent legally represent you.  Read the contract.
If it has any language binding you to the agent, laugh in her face and
tear it up (I find it hard to believe she would even try).


---
Ed Green, former Ninjaite |I was drinking last night with a biker,
  Ed.Green@East.Sun.COM   |and I showed him a picture of you.  I said,
DoD #0111  (919)460-8302  |"Go on, get to know her, you'll like her!"
 (The Grateful Dead) -->  |It seemed like the least I could do...
From: wb8foz@skybridge.SCL.CWRU.Edu (David Lesher)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Installing garage door openers
Date: 13 Nov 92 01:11:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: usenet.1duvc1INNl5h
Reply-To: wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu (David Lesher)
Distribution: world,local
Organization: NRK Clinic for habitual NetNews abusers - Beltway Annex
NNTP-Posting-Host: skybridge.scl.cwru.edu

Others said
# Chad> The manual explicitly says to place the thing at least 2 1/2
# Chad> inches above the tracks.  What can I do?
# 
# How about popping a hole in the sheetrock and putting the motor up between
# the ceiling joists.

Well,
I'm buying a house with maybe 1" of clearance. Popping a hole would be
a mite difficult - it's concrete above...

One Netter suggested a scheme she had where the arm was as long as the
door's travel so that the track was only farther into the garage, never
over the door. I can not use that either - across the garage just past
the door is a big steel beam from wall to wall.....

Any other ideas?

--
A host is a host from coast to coast..wb8foz@skybridge.scl.cwru.edu
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Shake roof maintenance
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 18:51:43 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

labelle@hfglobe.intel.com (George La Belle) writes:

> 
> 	Its that time of year again when a little mold starts showing on
> 	my roof. I've been told before that a little mold killer applied
> 	once a year is all I need. Many in my neighborhood have replaced
> 	their roofs already (~14 years old). I just received a flyer
> 	telling me this outfit will preasure clean my roof, then reaply
> 	"lost oils". Another neighbor tells me preasure cleaning actually
> 	dries out a roof and reduces its life.
> 
> 	What to do? Anybody have definitive answers to properly maintaining
> 	a shake roof? 

Not definitive, but what I've heard....

There's a lot of trouble with this in Seattle. The method there
is to either hose the roofing with a copper sulfate solution 
every few years, or run a few strips of copper or strands of
copper wire along the ridge of the roof. The runoff from the
wire or strips corroding, while quite weak, will not allow 
mold or moss to form.

Copper wire is cheap, and a few strands along the ridge won't
be noticable....

Gary Heston, at home...
gary@cdthq.uucp
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Ceiling Fan Recommendations Wanted
Date: 10 Nov 92 20:46:55 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee
Distribution: world
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

joan bullock says:

> According to a fan dealer I talked to a couple of months ago, Hunter _used_
> to be very good.  Not so recently.  The absolute best is Casablanca.  
> Followed by a number of other popular brands which I can't remember. 
> (Panasonic (?) comes to mind.)
> Try picking the brains of a couple of fan dealers.

well i tried that a while back when i was in the market for fans
and it was pretty predictable -- around here at least they tended 
to push whatever they made the most markup on

independent eveluations exist (i can't remember now where i found 
one -- consumer reports?) 

things to look for in the report i saw include blade pitch (not 
number of blades) and balance, motor amperage, lubrication system 
(oil bath best), etc -- hunter original was *the* best in terms 
of those characteristics -- some others (including casablance) 
were not quite as solid (oil-ompregnated brass sleaves and the 
like), but were highly rated in terms of looks 

the report to which i refer rated only the high-end models -- most 
manufacturers also make cheapies, which confuses the picture and
helps fan salesmen say most anything with contorted justification
 
-- 
mike langston <langston@cs.utk.edu>
department of computer science, university of tennessee
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: fireplace burning: firestarters
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 92 21:14:30 CST
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond) writes:

> 
> 
>  I just pruned a little evergreen (don't know what kind), a lemon tree, and
> a
>  camilla tree. I figure the trimmings will make good firestarters when they
>  dry out. So I've got them in closed boxes (cardboard) in the garage, and in
>  an old presswood cabinet outside.

They'll dry more slowly in enclosed spaces. They will, however, 
keep any green color (particulalry on the evergreen).

>  Is there anything I'm not thinking of in doing it this way?(pests? won't
>  dry?) And am I right in assuming these would be good kindling and smell
> good
>  to boot!?

Shouldn't have much pest problem. Once dry, they'll burn well, probably
have a nice fragrance, and will tend to pop and spark a little more 
than hardwood.

Gary Heston, at home...
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pfh@cray.com (Peter Hill)
Subject: Re: Saunas
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Distribution: na
Date: 10 Nov 92 07:49:01 CST

> I'm looking for info on sauna kits - mfg addresses, war stories, etc.

Finlandia Sauna
14010-B S.W. 72nd Avenue
Portland, OR  97224
503-684-8289
503-684-1120 fax
800-354-3342 outside OR

I purchased their FPC57 kit in August '90.  This is a 5'x7' precut kit
with everything you need including the heater (they OEM a Finnish
heater).  Since there was (at the time) no local dealer, they sold to
me off their contractor price list.  Good quality materials.

Since I'm now selling that house (in CO) I'm going to have to get
another sauna.  Same brand, and probably the same size, which I think
is the minimum size.  (Less than seven feet and I can't lie down
comfortably.) This time, I may get the more expensive free-standing
version.  That way I can take it with me when I move.  On the other
hand, I put 2x6 framing all around the kit, and it was really well
insulated.  It stayed hot for a long time.

They offer several kinds of wood - redwood, red and yellow cedar, and
(as I recall) hemlock, which they say is good for people who are
allergic to the other woods.  I got the yellow cedar.  Some people find
the scent unpleasant, but I think it's great for a sauna.

--Peter

-- 
___________________________________________________________________________
Peter Hill                     pfh@cray.com                 +1 612 683 5753
Cray Research, Inc.            655F Lone Oak Drive, Eagan, Minnesota  55121
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: dlinde@ns.encore.com (David Allan Linde)
Subject: HomeOwner's Association handover problems
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1992 16:54:15 GMT


   I attended a homeowners meeting last night after receiving notice in
the mail of the meeting to nominate new officers.  Apparently, our development
is now 75% full and the unit owners should now control the association.

   The meeting was being run by our currently contracted property management
group.  The first thing they read to us was a letter of resignation by Centex
Homes effective 5:30pm yesterday (the meeting was at 6:30pm).  We were then
told that Centex had sent no representative.

    We were told that this meant that unless we nominated and voted in at
least the 3 officer (Pres, Secret, and Treas.) there would be no one to 
authorized the current property management group to write any checks and
carry on our day to day business.

    Two CPA from our development blasted the absent developer stating that
it is customary during a association handover for the developer to provide
all homeowners with balence sheets of the current financial situation and
be present to answer any questions.

    The two CPA suggested that we don't nominate anyone and we reject the
resignation letter, but we didn't know what rights we actually had.  We
plan to just talk to the developer.  



There were a couple of financial sheets which the CPA then looked at and
found that the associated is currently 18,000 in debt!!!!!!  Since most
people  have already paid their quarterly assessment no new money is expected
until Jan. 1993 and there are some bills anticipated in December. 

The property management group admitted that 7,000 dollars were paid to raise
the outside wall another 2 foot.  This was done because the city of Plantation
had presented Centex with a citation.   The CPAs felt that since this was
a building code violation Centex should not have authorized the association
to pay it but Centex should have eaten the cost themselves.


Has anyone had any similar experiences.  Should we go ahead and elect a
board or should be get the financial stuff resolved before we take over.
Is this mismanagement?

From: stellaw@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Stella Kwong)
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 17:48:50 GMT
Subject: Hardwood floor over concrete slab ?
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house



     I am thinking of having a hardwood floor in the kitchen and the
     nook area. (total about 250 sq.ft). 
  
     Is it a good idea to put hardwood floor in the kitchen? Can I 
     clean the hardwood floor with water every other week? 
  
     Also, is there any problem putting hardwood floor on top of 
     concrete slab? I know hardwood floor can be glued instead of 
     nailed, but my contractor told me that the moisture from the
     concrete slab could create bubbles underneath the hardwood 
     and eventually it would damage the hardwood floor.  

     Is this true? Is hardwood floor over concrete slab possible? 
     

     Thanks,
     Stella
From: ef7@prism.gatech.edu (Ed Fair)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: HELP: My refer. won't refe!
Date: 13 Nov 92 14:28:35 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Information Technology

> >the duct was effectively blocked.  So I defrosted the freezer, but it just
> >frosted up in a week or two.  Again, I defrost.  Again, the coils are iced.

> >Is there something else I should be doing or looking at (like a new unit!)?

> In my case, the timer was bad (wasn't drawing the correct amount of current,

if your refrigerator is still making cold (even if too much cold) then
the core of your refrigerator is still a-ok and definitely you should
not dismiss it as irreparable.

the "defrost timer" is a simple timer, similar to one you might use to
turn on and off a table lamp at preset times.  instead of a simple off/on
for one circuit it is a off/on for two circuits.  when one is on, the other
is off, and vice versa.  one side of the timer is the "compressor"; the
other side is the "defrost heater".  (each of these circuits also works in 
conjunction with a thermostat, so the timer isn't the exclusive decision
maker for whether or not the compressor or defrost heater runs).  if you
get into a situation where the timer isn't working you get stuck in one
of two modes:  constant compressor or constant heater (with of course
consideration of the aformentioned thermostats).  most of these timers have
a screwdriver slot where you can manually turn them.  you might try turning
this and listening for clicking and turning off/on the compressor.
and if you're lucky you might find some test-points on the back of your
refrigerator that you can plug an amp-meter into to measure the current
being drawn by the defrost heater.  if you see current flow you probably are
producing heat.  or you can look in your drip pan - where ice+heat=water,
and it drips down into the pan.  the timer turns slowly so you may be able
to check it's operation by simply observing it over a day's time.  if it
turns you're ok.

if the timer's ok you may have a bad heater element or a bad heater
thermostat.

good luck!
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:14562 misc.consumers:19028
From: srj@key.COM (Scott R. Johnson)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
Subject: Filtrete Filters-- any opinions?
Date: 13 Nov 92 02:26:20 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Advanced Systems, Fremont CA


Hello all,

Has anyone tried the new 3M Filtrete filters?  Are they as good as the ads mislead me to believe?

My fiancee has really bad allergies, and I was hoping that they would work better than the old-style filters; however, I don't know if they cost more than the normal style.

Thanks in advance for the opinions,

-- 
--srj         It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing Milk-Bone underwear.
    o_O                                                        --Norm Peterson
   =( ) =     --all information given is the personal opinion of the author---
     U  Ack!  Scott Johnson  Amdahl Advanced Sys. srj@key.amdahl.com  623-2333
From: GioF@ultramac.uucp (Gio Favignano)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Questions on Cabinets from Home Depot,Bldrs Square, etc.
Date: 13 Nov 92 05:06:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: ultramac.1992Nov13.000623.97756
Distribution: world
Organization: Odyssey Ultraware, Inc

DL> This sign also says does not include countertop,sink, or
DL> appliances. I'm assuming this doesnt include labor either.
	The cabinet price should include labor for installing the cabinets only.
DL>  Do these cabinets come disassembled?
	The cabinets DO come assembled but will have to be joined. Doors may have to
be adjusted.
DL> Also, I wanted a blue countertop and it looks like they dont carry
DL> that color in their store
	The are hundreds of colors. If they don't have that chip then ask them. I
would strongly advise calling  a counter top (Laminating)manufacture. There
are many in the Yellow Pages. You don't usually have to be a contractor to buy
from them. Keep in mind that walls are very seldom square. take the total
length of each side and then the measurement from the two farthest ends and
with a little algebra you can get the angle. If you go to a counter top
manufacture just give them the measurement and the will do the math and some
will even come to the job sight to take the measurements.

GioF@oui.com    St. Louis, Mo.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: lp@well.sf.ca.us (Lily Pond)
Subject: fireplace burning: firestarters
Organization: Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 02:36:26 GMT



 I just pruned a little evergreen (don't know what kind), a lemon tree, and
a
 camilla tree. I figure the trimmings will make good firestarters when they
 dry out. So I've got them in closed boxes (cardboard) in the garage, and in
 an old presswood cabinet outside.

 Is there anything I'm not thinking of in doing it this way?(pests? won't
 dry?) And am I right in assuming these would be good kindling and smell
good
 to boot!?

Thanks
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: diane@camden.uswest.com (Diane Diesh)
Subject: gas fireplace/builder gripe
Reply-To: diane@advtech.uswest.com
Organization: U S WEST Advanced Technologies
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 18:41:08 GMT

We bought a house (new construction) in April of 1991.  The local
ordinances here (Boulder, CO) do not allow wood-burning fireplaces
in new construction--our house has two gas fireplaces.

Our understanding when we purchased the house was that both fireplaces
were roughed-in with a gas feeder.  It was our responsibility to
purchase gas logs and fit a connector to our home's gas line and the
fireplace's feeder.

Well, since we had lots of up-front expenses, we put off purchasing
gas logs until now.  And now we find that only *one* of the fireplaces
was roughed-in.  The roughed-in fireplace does not adjoin an exterior
wall, but rather is centrally located (as part of a structure that
functions as a room divider).  The feeder for this fireplace is directly
accessible from our basement, so getting gas to the feeder was no
problem.

The fireplace which was not roughed-in adjoins an exterior wall, and
is located above our crawlspace.  Getting a feeder attached now is
probably going to involve cutting a hole in our family room wall.

We feel that this situation was surely an oversite during the
construction phase.  We want the builder to remedy the problem.
They contend that the plans specified rough-in for only one of the
fireplaces.  Yet, I can't imagine why it wouldn't have been done during
construction, before the walls were in!  It just doesn't make sense,
does it?

This builder is very unresponsive.  They rarely return our phone calls.
My father thinks we have a good case for small-claims court (we suspect
that the cost will run around $500).  Ideas?

E-mail preferred...thanks in advance.
-- 
Diane Diesh
diane@advtech.uswest.com
Xref: sparky misc.consumers.house:14279 rec.gardens:7837
From: bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu (Bill Williams)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens
Subject: Re: aphids from indoor plant
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:43:17 GMT
Organization: St. Mary's College of Maryland
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d10
X-XXMessage-ID: <A71EE461CD0301D2@williams.smcm.edu>
X-XXDate: Thu, 5 Nov 92 19:46:57 GMT

In article <1992Oct26.051401.3764@midway.uchicago.edu> William J.
Buikema, wjb1@ellis.uchicago.edu writes:
>I've found that while soapy water does knock down the numbers of
pests on
>houseplants, it's almost impossible to actually kill them all.  I've
found that
>Safer's Soap is a nontoxic alternative to pesticides, and is
considerably 
>more effective than plain dish soap (it contains potassium fatty
acids).

I would second Bill's suggestion about Safer's, but with a caution: 
we've killed plants in growth chambers with Safer's!  I'd suggest
applying a little (as directed) on a couple of leaves and watching for
a day before doing the whole plant.
___________________________________
William E. Williams, bwilliam@oyster.smcm.edu
Divison of Natural Sciences and Mathematics
St. Mary's College of Maryland
St. Mary's City, MD 20686
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: R-values
Date: 13 Nov 92 20:34:09 GMT
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated

In article <1992Nov13.164122.18882@src.honeywell.com> hfunk@src.honeywell.com (Harry Funk) writes:
>Well, at the risk of calling into question my reliability :^), I'll take a
>stab at why someone who's *really* pedantic (me, for example :^)) might
>maintain that you get less total R-value *and* less R-value per inch when
>you compress fiberglass.  First, let me say that the loss is negligible for
>most applications.  That said, I'd base my conclusion on the following data

You are talking about a type of compression that is way outside the
question asked. You can talk about solid glass if you want, but that's
not really relevant to the subject of home insulation. Why don't you
talk about performance at temperatures around 10 to 100 degrees K,
where the "air" might be solid or liquid? Or go even further with
compression to neutron star densities? Going the other way, why bother
with fiberglass, just leave the walls empty, since your K factor
for air seems to indicate an R-value per inch of nearly 6?

Should we just try to see how silly we can be?

BTW, what do you mean by "the loss is negligible"?

-- 
My opinions are my own.
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: GE microwaves
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 92 16:19:26 GMT
Keywords: GE products

In article <1992Nov9.190953.2076@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> marsan@marsan.comm.mot.com (Mark Marsan) writes:

>A previous thread trashed Sears products - I guess it is time to trash
>GE products and repair services! 

Oh goody! My turn.

I bought a GE stove a few years ago. Lovely black color with a brushed
chrome top. Easy to clean and looked good in the kitchen. That is, it
looked good until the day I bought some lobster tails. They boiled over,
and the brine produced some lovely rust spots. Even the old Ducatis had
better chrome than that! (For you people who are not motorcycle enthusiasts,
Ducati had the worst chrome plating in the world).

My father always claimed that GE had bought the "planned obsolescence"
concept hook, line, and sinker, and that the stuff they produced in
the 70s and early 80s was so trashy they nearly went bankrupt. They did
a reorg in the late 80s, and their quality supposedly improved.

On the plus side, I have had two GE washing machines of unknown age that
you couldn't kill with an axe. That's why I bought the stove from them.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | If it were not possible to allow a little energetic
George Patterson -  | discussion between opposing factions, there would
                    | be no market for tire irons or band-aids.
                    |                             Sam Venable
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