HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: nucci@microwave.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jeffrey J. Nucciarone)
Subject: Re: How to store a car for 6 months
Organization: NASA GSFC Code 913, Climate and Radiation
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 14:45:11 GMT

In article <C0GB4s.5B9@ns1.nodak.edu>, csmith@plains.NoDak.edu (Carl Smith) writes:
|> In article <C0G172.4L0@icon.rose.hp.com> dsantos@hprnd.rose.hp.com (David Santos) writes:
|> >    - Set some mouse traps in and around the car to prevent those little
|> >      critters from eatting you upolstery. 
|> 
|> Nibbles in the upolstery are the least of your concerns with mice.
|> They have the bad habit of building nests in your heater/ac air
|> passages, and when you fire the car up for the first time after
|> many months you are hit by the intolerable stench of aged mouse
|> droppings and possibly dead decomposing mouse carcasses.
|> 
|> To fix the problem you are usually stuck dismatling the dash and
|> scrubbing out all the heater/ac ducts very thouroughly...
|> 

and thats not all....   several summers ago I went away for 2 weeks
and left my car, a 1982 Jeep CJ-7 with the 258 cid 6, sitting in
the driveway. When I returned, it ran terrible, almost as if the
choke were stuck on. It had been damp while I was away, so I shrugged
it off to water accumulation in the gas tank. I dumped in a can
of dry gas and drove off, huffing and puffing all the way, to refill
the tank with fresh gas.  Things improved somewhat, but not enough.
Ok, time to lift the hood....  I had continual problems with the
Carter 2bbl gumming up so I figured it was up to its old tricks
again; armed with my trusty can of carb cleaner, I unscrewed the 
2 bolts hold the compromise designed (gotta love 'dem old AMC
engineers) air cleaner housing, fought with the lid (compromise
designed), and......

and....

yup, a family of mice had built a nest in my air cleaner. It came 
complete with half eaten nuts for food. Too bad for the mice
(and me) as they were all sucked into the air filter as soon as I
started the engine. What a mess.

Needless to say, after I cleaned out the nest, the Jeep ran fine.....

/Jeff
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hamilton@eng.umd.edu (Andrew W. Hamilton)
Subject: EFE system causes engine ping?
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 93 03:08:26 GMT
Organization: Project GLUE, University of Maryland, College Park

Does anyone know why my '78 Buick LeSabre pings when I rev the
engine in Park, but does not ping in the same situation if I
disconnect the violet striped EFE vaccum hose from the EFE valve
pipe?  (301 2-bbl, engine code Y)

Performace doesn't seem to suffer with this hose disconnected, but
It just seems a little odd that the pinging goes away.  Should I
just leave it disconnected?

Andrew
From: scholten@esseye.si.com (David Scholten)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Taurus Computer
Date: 11 Jan 93 17:35:47 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Smiths Industries


Thanks to all who pointed me in the write direction in being able
to read out the fault codes from the computer.  I found the Chilton book
that talks about how to do it with an analog voltmeter.  However,
they also make clear that Ford claims a breakout box is needed otherwise
connecting straight to the computer connector will guarantee a computer
failure. Is this true?  Has anybody connected straight to the computer
connector with out a breakout/interface box?

Thanks
Dave Scholten
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 8 Jan 93 18:19:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> |> Does anyone know of a mail_order source for 90/130W H4 headlight
-> bulbs? |> The brightest I can find locally or mail_order are 80/100W,
-> and I'd really |> like to have the extra wattage.

> With the extra wattage, you'll be able to see the other drivers
> giving you the 1-digit salute, too!

 With decent lights, properly aimed, it's not a problem.  My Hella
5-1/4s have much less glare on low beam than the goofy midget lights on
new GM cars.  I got my 90/130s from a mail order place called MIAH some
years ago.

 Around here, you can't just drive around on low beam, no matter how dim
your lights are.  The rednecks go into a frenzy working the high beam
switch, so then I just sear their retinas for revenge.  Keeps me from
getting bored, anyway.
                                                                                   
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: How to store a car for 6 months
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 93 22:57:54 GMT

In article <1iffl5INNssl@tamsun.tamu.edu> dlb5404@tamsun.tamu.edu (Daryl Biberdorf) writes:
>In article <C0G172.4L0@icon.rose.hp.com> dsantos@hprnd.rose.hp.com (David Santos) writes:
>>    I saw a show, I think it was MotorWeek, that discussed this topic.  The
>>hosts recommendations were:
>>    - Set some mouse traps in and around the car to prevent those little
>>      critters from eatting you upolstery. 
>
>"In" the car?   Well, assuming that a mouse could get in the car, I'm not
>sure which would be worse -- having chewed-up upholstery or the stench
>of a rotting mouse carcass caught in a mouse trap in the car.  Yuck.
>The stench would almost certainly take a lot of work and time to get
>rid of.  I think I'd find some other way to deal with mice in the car
>(such as finding a way to guarantee that they don't get into the car).
>

my husband bought some cars from a fellow who kept them in a 'barn'
of sorts, the animals around the area considered it [the barn] theirs -
some of the cars had most of the upholstry gone due to rodents chewing
on them and, one car had a nest of ground squirrels in the rocker panel

but, putting the car up on jacks should dissuade a lot of that where
the little varmints won't get in the car as easily - also, wherever 
you store it, hopefully, someone can/will check on it once in a while -
stored cars have been known to get stolen...

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG
Date: 4 Jan 1993 23:16:14 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:
>-> on your engine?  Oh yea, this "Clean" gas was clear as water, but
>-> here in Ontario, a jar of gas has a vivid yellow, while Michigan gas
>-> has a reddish color to it.  Is there anything to this coloring?  Can
>-> it be counteracted (ie what can make red colored gas look yellow?)

> Most gas is clear to start with, then dyed to distinguish grade.
>145 octane aviation fuel used to be purple, for instance.  I don't know
>what the colors are for others.

Correct.  Dyes are also used to distinguish gasoline sold for
commercial purposes (eg farm fuels) from consumer fuels.

I don't know the colors either.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown)
Subject: Re: What is the resonable oil comsumption?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 93 16:16:31 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: DG-RTP Graphics Group
Followup-To: rec.autos

In article <solbourne.com>, kucharsk@solbourne.com (William Kucharski) writes:
|> 
|> While reading article <1993Jan11.152320.16193@dg-rtp.dg.com>, I noticed that
|> brownr@hydra.rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown) said the following:
|>  >
|>  >I would not call 1 quart/1000 miles normal for any reasonably new car.
|> 
|> How about an RX-7?  :-)

I knew when I was typing this I should have said "gasoline piston-engine" car.

Randy 'Wankel THIS' B. ;-)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jnissen@austin.ibm.com ()
Subject: Re: Fiero problem
Originator: jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 12:26:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: IBM Austin Advanced Workstation Division


In article <vines.726436714@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov>, vines@blacks.jpl.nasa.gov (Ken Vines) writes:
> After installing a new distributer cap, rotor and sparkplug wires,
> my '85 fiero V6 will not start. It cranks OK, got spark on the
> wires, but no luck starting. I was careful to not switch the
> sequence of the wires, but now I'm beginning to wonder.
> 
> The front (trunk-side) bank is 1-3-5, the rear is 2-4-6 and the
> firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 according to the shop manual. I cant
> be sure which terminal on the distributer is 1 since the timing
> mark is wore off and its not mentioned in the manual.
> 
> The stock cap has a 2 printed at one of the terminals, that is the
> only indication of the starting order. Am I right?
> I doubt I was able to twist the distibuter shaft while removing the
> rotor. The ignition module connections are fine.
> 
> It's also possible something got disconnected, but everything looks
> OK. Do I need to remove the battery terminal to reset the computer?
> Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance...
> 
Are you sure the firing order is 123456?  That sound strange.  I have	
usually seen firing orders that tend to jump around a bit like
135246 or something like that.  I don't have a technical reference here
but from the sound of it the firing order you have sounds wrong.

You can tell where post number one is if you turn the motor over and align
the crank mark with the mark on the timing case (should be there, probably
covered in oil and dirt).  Pop off the distributor cap and look at where
the rotor is pointing.  Compare it to the original cap.  Does it point to the 
number one post?  If not you may have to turn the motor over one more 
revolution (distributor turns once for every two turns of the crank).

I would first check your documentation, than go for it.
-- 
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
 _/      Jim Nissen                jnissen@jnissen.austin.ibm.com  _/
 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: rangwal@wk56.nas.nasa.gov (Akil A. Rangwalla)
Subject: Transmission problem with a Mazda 323
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, California
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 93 20:47:00 GMT
Distribution: usa

  I have an automatic 1988 Mazda 323.  The automatic
 transmission has an overdrive feature which can be
 turned on manually.  Recently, transmission refuses
 to shift into overdrive even at speeds greater than
 50 mph on a level road (engine is running pretty warm
 according to the temperature gauge).  Could there be
 a simple fix to this or am I looking at major $$'s
 in repairs.

 Thanks

 Akil Rangwalla.
From: robrick@erenj.com (Bob Brickman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: GM ECM Serial Data
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:29:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: usa
Organization: ER&E, Clinton, NJ.  Opinions solely the author's, not the Company's.

In article <93Jan11.103644pst.11561@alpha.xerox.com>,
Michel_Denber.WBST147@xerox.com wrote:
> 
> 	"I want to find a way to read data from in into a computer.  (So far I
> can
> only get a readout with p's and x's.)  I have modified the signal output
> voltage to match the required input by my computer.  Also, I have been
> able to determine that the data rate is 2400 baud (with aid from an
> oscilloscope)."
> 
> Bzzzt.  It's actually 8192 bits/sec.  (I'm assuming you have the "high-speed"
> P4 ECM.  The older C3 is 160 bits /sec.)  I've often wondered about the session
> where the GM engineers decided on these numbers.  What I wouldn't give for a
> few ounces of whatever it is they were smoking at the time.  I guess they're
> making progress though.  At least 8192 is a power of 2.
> 
> 	"Can someone tell me how many start bits, stop bits, and whatever the
> signal coming from the car has?"
> 
> They can, but they won't.  Give up.
> 
> 	"(Any other information on this signal would also be appreciated.)"
.... etc.

    I saw a couple articles in September 1992 "Automotive Engineering"
which gave brief descriptions of the SAE J1850 and J2178 standards for the
serial communications network and message format. Perhaps these may be of
some relevance to you. They still don't describe how to interpret the
content of a message packet, but it may indicate how much of a job you have
ahead of you if you want to "roll your own".  Buying a package from Diacom
sounds pretty cheap by comparison.
				Good luck,
    Bob Brickman       <robrick@erenj.com>
  -- disclaimer: the preceding represent my personal opinions and do not
reflect the opinions, policies, or practices of my employer
From: boutzev@lcaohp2.epfl.ch (Lubomir Boutzev)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Date: 8 Jan 93 23:12:46 GMT
Reply-To: boutzev@lcaohp1.epfl.ch
Organization: AI crazed sickos.

In article <1993Jan8.185219.28648@nosc.mil>, koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:

|> hmmmmmmmm, I don't know *what* it was you saw, but the 'hummer' is not
|> aircooled... it's powered by the second-generation GM conversion engine and is
|> liquid-cooled...
|> 
|> Walt K.

here are details of what I really saw:
I travelled across Germany and stopped every 4 hours at highway restauroutes 
in order to get some rest.
This time there was an unusual for german mentality crowd around some military
colored vehicles.
I went too and I saw a all-road US-force vehicle that had crushed the
back of a civilian VW passat.
The GI had his feet a little loose on the brake. Or he was not used yet to german
beer.
After the formalities were over I went and talked to the driver.
This was something like 2 years and 6 months ago.
The guy was polite enough to explain me that the vehicle he was 
in charge of was a hummer.
Automatic transmission and 8 cyl air cooled dieselo he said.....
Torsen limited slip differentials. Went near 110 km/h when in good mood.
He didn't agree to show me the engine.
He was also unable to tell me how could I buy one in Europe.
Hmmmmmmmm. That's was what I've seen and heard from an american soldier
driving what he called a hummer. This piece of machinery looked like the very
same ones we have seen on CNN during the desert storm reports.
Either he had a different model of hummer either he was "misleading the ennemy"
either the technical training of the US army has to be improved.
BTW the hummer in quetstion produced a engine noise very similar to the
ones typically made by engines that have to spin a good size air-cooling
turbine. 
Go find out.... 
L.B.

P.S. 
The long gone mythic Citroen 2CV (2 cyl boxer petrol front wheel drive)
was air-cooled.
This was probably one of the greatest french cars that made words such as
speed, performance, acceleration obsolete when compared to friendship,
fuel-economy, low-cost, everlasting life and fun. 
In memory, RIP.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: vetter@mtu.edu (STEVEN J. VETTER)
Subject: Re: Is water pump going bad at 65K miles in 89 Accord Normal ??
Organization: Michigan Technological University
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 15:38:53 GMT

s5ugxk@almserv.uucp (Girish Kumtheker) writes:
>
>
>Hi,
>
>
>My car has been diagnosed with a bad water pump, with estimated
>repair cost at $ 350 - $ 400 ( that includes replacing the belts and
>timing belt .. they need to come off anyway, so replacing them now saves
>labor ).
>
>I have 1989 Honda Accord 4 Dr with 65K miles . My question is
>is this a normal thing to happen to lose water pump at this mileage
>for Accords ????
>
>
>Please send E mail to s5ugxk@fnma.com, 
>
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Girish Kumthekar
>s5ugxk@fnma.com
>
>
>
>-- 
>
>Girish Kumthekar		Unix Technical Support
>
>E mail address : girish@fnma.com 

  Yes, this is completely normal.  Honda reccomends that you have your water pump at least checked
  as routine maintenance at about 60K.

-- 
Steve Vetter     DISCLAIMER-  The opinions expressed here are not those of
vetter@mtu.edu                my employer,  because I don`t have one yet.  If  
                              you wish for these opinions to be your company's,
Damn it's Cold!!!             or not, send e-mail to :  vetter@mtu.edu 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com (Mike Zintel)
Subject: Madness due to carb backfire (2)
Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1993 17:01:07 GMT

Thanks folks for all the ideas. Last weekend I rebuilt the Holly 2100 with
the intention of raising the float level to make things richer. The float 
setting was 1/8" low so I adjusted it to spec. I drove the Scout about 100
miles and it only popped on two occasions. Both times were after idling for
a few minutes.

I will drive for a few weeks and see if things remains stable. The truck has
fooled me before.




-- 

Mike Zintel		zintel@mdd.comm.mot.com
Motorola Mobile Data
Bothell, WA
From: sheriffp@Software.Mitel.COM (Peter Sheriff)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Holley 2300 leaks internally...Fix????
Date: 6 Jan 93 17:29:15 GMT
Organization: Mitel. Kanata (Ontario). Canada.


    The symptoms sound a little like fuel percolation but it sounds like
it happens even when the engine is cold so that would be out. Have you
checked the float level? I guess that you changed the float valve and
seat when you did the rebuild but it sounds like the residual pressure
in the fuel line might be forcing gas past the float valve into the
float chamber and then overflowing into the carb throat. It may be worth 
checking for a bad float valve.

                                 Pete
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gcagle@dracula.mentorg.com (Greg Cagle)
Subject: Re: 90/130W H4 QI headlight bulbs wanted
Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1993 18:55:49 GMT
Reply-To: greg_cagle@mentorg.com
Organization: Mentor Graphics
Keywords: 
Followup-To: 

Try J.C. Whitney, (312)431-6102. Part number 14-9375A, $11.95 each.

- Greg

In article <64350004@hpcss01.cup.hp.com>, garyg@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Gary Gitzen) writes:
>Hi,
>
>Does anyone know of a mail_order source for 90/130W H4 headlight bulbs?
>The brightest I can find locally or mail_order are 80/100W, and I'd really
>like to have the extra wattage.
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Gary <garyg@cup.hp.com> San Jose, CA
>

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greg Cagle                                     Platform Technology Division
greg_cagle@mentorg.com                          Mentor Graphics Corporation
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: floyd@eng.umd.edu (Greg Butler)
Subject: Carter Quadrajet?
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 93 03:37:25 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland
Summary: What's the story? 
Distribution: usa

 
Is that a typo?  Everyone knows Quadrajets are (were) made by
Rochester, right?  That's what I thought until I picked one up
the other day that had written on the side:
 
     "MFD BY
      CARTER
      CARBURETOR
      FOR GMC"
 
I had never heard about such a thing before I saw this.  I have a
book that covers Quadrajets pretty extensively, and it had no
mention of Carter ever producing them (then again, the book is
about Rochester carbs, so why would it?).
 
I haven't been able to determine what it came off of yet, but so
far I know that it is a 750 CFM model, and was possibly used on a
'73-'75 model, assuming the info on Rochester Quads applies.
 
I would like to return the carb to running condition, all it
needs is a rebuild and both throttle shafts replaced (from one of
my junk carbs), but I am concerned about parts availability.
 
Before anyone asks, yes, it is a Quadrajet.  It says "Quadrajet"
on the side.  Besides, I've been rebuilding and running them for
a couple of years now, I know one when I see it.
 
So, does anyone have any info on these Carter Quadrajets?  Are
they fairly common and I'm just ignorant?
 
Now, one quick aside:  What is the white powdery stuff I'm always
finding in my carbs?  How do I clean it out?  Carburetor cleaner
doesn't do a thing to this stuff.  So far I've been scraping it
out, but what about the passages I can't get to?  It doesn't look
like oxidation from the carb, but I can't rule it out.
 
Oh, BTW, Carb # 7044266.
 
Many thanks, Greg.
 
 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Ford Taurus Computer
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 00:09:40 GMT

In article <1993Jan5.190302.8197@esseye.si.com>, scholten@esseye.si.com (David Scholten) writes:
|> I have an `87 Ford Taurus 3.0L engine.  What I would like to
|> know is how to read out the error codes from the computer.
|> 

You can read the fault codes use the information to replace sensors by
yourself, and you will save a ton of money, plus you won't feel that
you are getting ripped off on unnecessary repairs.

You can read the codes out yourself using a simple analog Volt-Ohm
meter you can buy at Radio Shack for $15.  Your local library probably
has the Chilton's or Mitchell's book on electronic engine diagnosis,
in the reference section.  This tells you how to hook up the VOM and
read the codes, what the codes mean, and the step-by-step diagnostic
for when you get the codes.  I have used the Mitchell's book and 
found it excellent.

Basically, you hook a jumper wire between two of the pins of the STAR
connector, attach the (-) lead of the VOM to another pin, and connect
the (+) to the (+) terminal of your battery (this is with the VOM
set on 0-15V DC scale).  When you turn on the ignition key the needle
of the VOM will start to swing and by counting the pulses and writing
down the digits you get the error codes.

For about $50 you can get a diagnostic tool that plugs into the STAR
connector and has an LED and a beeper to flash/beep out the codes.
This has no wires to hook up and also includes a manual that lists
all the codes and how to diagnose them.  I went the cheap route because
it is simple to hook up the wires and the VOM has many other uses besides
reading trouble codes.

I believe with the Taurus all you have to do is jumper the two pins
on the STAR and the "check engine" light will flash out the codes, can
somebody confirm this?

It takes maybe five minutes to read the codes out, for that they
charged you $50.  It could take longer if they followed the diagnostic
steps in the book which confirm that it was actually the TPS.
However, they probably saved time by just swapping in a new TPS from
their inventory and checking to see if the codes were then normal.
This involves unplugging a connector and removing two screws, a five
minute job at most.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Rust Neutralizer?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:20:05 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

 The rust killers all seem to based on phosphoric acid; the paintable ones
are phosphoric acid in a latex base.

 They do not penetrate very far. They are suitable for light surface rust, 
but deep pits or rust deposits will not be fully converted. These should
be taken care of mechanically, with the rust killer used to passivate any
small pits, etc.


-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech