HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Freewheel Woes
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 21:50:54 GMT

In <lcp2faINN6p@appserv.Eng.Sun.COM> dlp@zule.Eng.Sun.COM (Dan Pritchett - SunSoft Engineer) writes:

>The first freewheel was an Suntour Alpha that lasted 1200 miles before
>shifting became very rough. The freewheel and chain were replaced and
>the shifting returned to normal. This new freewheel was also a Suntour
>Alpha. Last night the freewheel began binding and had pretty much
>seized by the time I got it to the shop. This freewheel has 1800 miles
>on it.

>The last time I replaced the freewheel, I discussed putting a better
>model on the bike. I ride the bike 3,000+ miles/year and would rather
>not replace freewheel and chain twice/year. The shop owner told me
>that the durability of a freewheel is limited by the durability of the
>sprockets and all Suntour freewheels use the same hardness sprockets.
>The price difference is for the freewheel mechanism.

>My questions are:

>#1 - Is this assement of freewheels correct? Is the driving factor
>on freewheel cost the internals and the gears are the same?

The freewheel cogs are essentially identical for all SunTour
freehweels I've worked on, except perhaps for the color of
the finish.  The freewheel body is where the big differences
are.  

This does not mean the cogs are the limiting factor on
durability, just the opposite: a good, sealed freewheel body
will last long enough that you may need to replace worn cogs
before replacing the body, while a poorly-sealed body can
seize up before the cogs look at all worn.

If you still have your dead freewheels, get just a new
freewheel body and re-use the cogs -- it's cheaper than
getting a whole freewheel.  Buy a better quality body.

>#2 - Is wearing out a freewheel every 1000-1500 miles considered
>normal?

Not by my standards.  A mountain bike will probably wear
freewheels out faster than a road-only bike because of the
extra water and grit, but a well-maintained freewheel should
last many thousands of miles.  OTOH, some of my friends
destroy mountain bike freewheels in under 1000 miles, but
their idea of freewheel maintenance is remove & replace, so
I can't blame the freehweel alone.

>#3 - Should I look at a different vendor for my next freewheel, like
>Sachs-Maillard or just move up the line in Suntour?

Having tried all three on my mountain bike, I'd say the XC-Pro
freewheel would last longer than either the Alpha or an
Aris, so if durability is your main concern, I'd go for a
better SunTour.  On the other hand, the Aris is easier to
maintain and has a better removal tool.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Hyperglide sprocket replacement
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 19:20:00 GMT

In <1992Sep27.031420.10955@dartvax.dartmouth.edu> Gen.M.Kanai@dartmouth.edu (Gen M. Kanai) writes:

>In article <ahlwqA2HBh104h@contempt.brisnet.org.au>
>rob@contempt.brisnet.org.au (Rob Amos) writes:

>> due to Killer Chain
>> Suck Crunchings) but am still on original rear cluster.  I have covered
>> approx 3,500 km on it.

>What?!?!?!!?  Shimano and many others reccomend you change both
>freewheel and chain every year!  3500 km!  Crisp shifts?  No way with a
>freewheel with 3500 kms on it!

For those used to thinking in king's toes, 3500 km is 2,175
miles.  I certainly don't need to replace my mountain bike's
freewheel this often, though it does take more abuse than my
road bike drivetrain.  The main failure mode of my mountain
bike freewheels has always been bearing wear, not cog wear,
thanks to all the muddy water flowing through the thing.
Since I started flushing and greasing my freewheel instead
of oiling it it seems to stand up better.

As for cog wear and shifting, my commuting/touring cogs are 
almost a year old and have barely-noticeable wear after around 
7,000 miles.  Perhaps Shimano's 1-year guideline is aimed more 
at selling freewheels than at smooth shifting?  
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kkrueger@cwis.unomaha.edu (Kurt Krueger)
Subject: Reynolds 531 sticker replacement
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 01:39:40 GMT

I have an old Trek frame that I would like to fix up for commuting purposes.
It needs repainting, and I've become rather interested thinking about some
fancy paint jobs I might try just as an artistic challange.  However, I'm
going to have to strip off the Reynolds 531 sticker (which has been partially
worn off as is), and I would like to replace it.  Someday I may sell the
bike, and it will go for more if I have some certification of the frame's
material.  Besides, steel frames don't look complete without the sticker.
My question is: How do I get ahold of a replacement?  I remember some years
back Reynolds offered an anniversary sticker and required a photograph or
other such proof before the sticker would be sent out.  Unfortunately, I
have no address to write to.

Kurt R. Krueger
kkrueger@unomaha.edu

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: pamela@keps.kodak.com (Pamela Blalock)
Subject: Vitus with Aluminum Steerer Tube
Organization: Kodak Electronic Printing Systems
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 22:33:22 GMT

I have a vitus fork with an aluminum steerer tube. We discovered that
the steerer tube was aluminum when we went to replace the headset. The 
shop tells me that these are dangerous and will break randomly and that
we should not put this fork back into the bike. Now we are looking at 
$200 for a new fork.

The bike is 14 years old. Apparently vitus swapped out these forks for
ones with steel steerer tubes 10 years ago, but they will no longer
honor this. There was no official recall, but supposedly an alert was
sent out warning of the danger. We were never informed.

Does anyone here have direct experience with this type of fork or 
potential failure? I can't tell if the shop is being straight with
me or trying to get me to shell out more money that I may not need 
to. 

Thanks for any help
pamela

-- 
Pamela Blalock                                     pamela@keps.kodak.com
Kodak Electronic Printing Systems, Inc             10 down, 2 to go!
164 Lexington Road, Billerica, MA 01821-3984       BMB mixed tandem finisher!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: MEDELMA@cms.cc.wayne.edu (Michael Edelman)
Subject: Tandemonium
Organization: Wayne State University, C&IT
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 13:37:00 GMT

There seems to bve a thread developing regarding what is, and what is not
properly called a "tandem". I checked my copy of the Oxford Bicycling
Dictionary (1993) and came up with the following:
 
Tandem: Bicycle with two cyclists pedaling in-line.
 
Twindem: Two cyclists side-by-side
 
Condom: Two cyclists facing each other.
 
Pandam: Cyclist in front, large asian bear in back.
 
Random: Cycle with indeterminate number of wheels.
 
          --mike
From: dp@world.std.com (Jeff DelPapa)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Since we are talking about pro equip
Date: 29 Sep 92 22:39:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: world.BvD2y8.Cw9
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA

I was slightly surprised to see such conventional hardware in evidence
at the olympic road races - specifically the wheels all seemed to be
conventional spoked construction, rather than the disks and composite
3 spoke wheels that I see at my local bike emporia.  Likewise the
frames seemd to be fairly conventional tubing, very much unlike the
composite wonders used by the timetrialing (which also happend on
regular pavement) contingent. Despite their ameteur status, the price
tag shouldn't be an issue. I havent been a racer in decades (in fact
my current hand injuries prevent me from riding non stationary
bicycles) and am just curious.

<dp>
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Advice on chains..
Date: 28 Sep 92 16:48:39 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

Dear Rec.Bicycles.Tech:

	I would like some advice on chains.  Specifically, how long can one
usually use the same chain?  I just read a post that said 2000 miles, but mine
seem to wear out in around 500 or 600 miles.  My bike is not indexed, and is 
just a simple 10-speed.  
	Is there much difference between "brand-name" chains and non-brand-name
chains?  Because my bike is not indexed, I have the choice of using virtually
any chain out there, instead of being limited to, say, Hyperglide compatible
only.  Presently I am using a Schwinn-approved chain, bought at the local shop.
This chain costs about $8.00.  I was wondering if brand-name chains last 
longer.  A Sedis ATB chain costs about $8.00 also, so I was thinking of trying
one of these.  Would it last much longer?      
	Please advise!  Thanks! 
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!                                     "A bonafide BIKAHOLIC, and DAMN
                                             proud of it!"    
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: brianh@hprisc-29.cae.wisc.edu (Brian Huilman)
Subject: Strange groupo discovered, seeking info...
Organization: UW-Madison School of Engineering
Distribution: usa
Date: 28 Sep 92 19:30:57 CDT
Originator: brianh@hprisc-29.cae.wisc.edu
Keywords: groupo, components



	As I trek across campus each day, I keep my eyes open for that rare
sight-- a decent road bike (everybody here has a > $500 mountain bike 8( ...)
Today I saw something that caused a double-take.

	The bike I saw was an old steel frame bike with the logo "Supercronos"
on the downtube.  This bike had a groupo I've never heard of:  "Zeus"  The
bike had Zeus brakes, quick release skewars, cranks, chainrings (with 2mm dia.
holes all around the circumfrence, just below the teeth.  obviously for weight,
but still strange...), hubs, headset, derailures (sp?), EVERYTHING was made
by Zeus!  Upon closer inspection, I found Zeus was manufactured in Spain.  Who
ever owned the bike had smarts enough to have Mavic rims and Vittoria Kevlar
clinchers so I'm assuming they know something of cycling.  The bike had a very
European racing geometry.

	My question:  does anybody know anything about Zeus components?

...

	Along that same line, would somebody please provide a fairly detailed
listing of major groupo suppliers (Campy, Shimano, SunTour, (fill in your
favorite), etc), the groups they make (best to worse), components included
in the group, the equivalency across manufacturers, benifits of this group over
another by the same manufacturer (or of another group by a different
manufacturer), price, personal observations, etc.?

	I realize this is a BIG request (and is probably already answered in
the FAQ), but I know I, and possibly many others, would GREATLY appreciate the
info.  Thanx in advance.

Brian Huilman           University of Wisconsin - Madison
                        Department of Electrical/Computer Engineering
"Avoid the Bonk"        brianh@cae.wisc.edu
             _   __o
           ___  `\<,    "Speed is the reward for hard training."
             -  O/ O
From: skelly@coral.bucknell.edu (Kelly Sean David)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Advice on chains..
Date: 6 Oct 92 06:18:13 GMT
Article-I.D.: coral.1as775INNb5h
Organization: Bucknell University, Lewisburg, PA, USA
NNTP-Posting-Host: coral.bucknell.edu

With respect to wheel maintenance. . . I got a rear cassette remover for under
$10 a while ago.  You connect it to the rear cassette (very simple) and pedal
forward and it will loosen the small cog on the cassette-- I think it's
mostly for 'roadside' repairs but it sure as hell beats a vise and assorted
other stuff.  With some degreaser, a cassette brush (or whatever they're
called), and some grease for the bearings, you can do a pretty good job
on your rear wheel.  Repacking the bearings (on my bike anyway) is very easy.
It pretty much consists of removing the rear spindle, cleaning the bearing
housing, greasing, and re-assembling.  I don't think this is something that
has to be done very often (your 'if there's noise from the bearings clean them'
is a pretty good way to do things, although after a particularly grimy ride
I'll do it anyway).  It's been my experience that a clean bike is infinitely 
superior to a grimy (better) bike.  Okay, I have a MTB, but I think the rule 
still applies.

-Sean Kelly
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

In rec.bicycles.tech, paul@panix.com (Paul Gatker) writes:

    >Neither will the glue in a tube unless
    >there is a hole that lets in air.

     They always dry up in my patch kits.

I have had the tubes of glue in patch kits dry out even before the first
use.  It looks like the glue tube gets worn enough around the edges from
bouncing around in the little plastic patch kit box to wear a tiny hole
in it.  The workaround I have found for this problem is to wrap the tire
boot material I carry around the tube of glue.  I make my tire boot
material out of sections of an old tire cut to about the length of the
tube of glue.  Two pieces nicely encapsulate the glue tube and hold it
tightly enough to avoid any movement inside the patch kit.

Once the glue tube has been opened, I rotate it out to my toolbox at
home and put a new glue tube in the patch kit on the bike.  Once they
have been opened, they seem to have a "half life" of about 2 months.
This is just long enough to let you forget about it and end up on the
road with a dry tube of glue.  By carrying one extra inner tube, I avoid
breaking the seal on the glue tube for most flats.  I patch the extra
tube when I get home from any old tubes of glue that are left over.
From: rschetge%arrl.org (Bob Schetgen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Hyper-Cracker?
Date: 2 Oct 92 13:26:35 EDT
Organization: American Radio Relay League

In rec.bicycles.tech, bobs@Think.COM ( Robert Schwartz) writes:
>
>a small device that you attach to your cassette and chainstay and then
>pedal the bike (backwards I assume) to loosen the cassette.

stuff deleted

>Has anyone in wreck.bike world seen/heard of/used this tool?  If so,
>does it work or is it a gimmick?  Any advice or anectdotes regarding
>this would be appreciated.

I haven't seen it in person or used one, but it's in the 
Nashbar catalog (#85, fall '92) on p 59. There are different 
models for standard ($6.25) or hyperglide ($7.25) cogs, of 
course. At that price, it doesn't seem worth a big debate. 
Buy one and try it.
From: jp11244@snoopy.umd.edu (Ricky deLeyos)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Computers on shocks
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:48:51 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park

Hello folx,
I just bought a Specialized Speed Zone computer for my mtb.
my problem is that the fork mounts for the sensor don't fit on the
Manitou forks at all. I saw the most recent issue of Bicycling
and how they mounted the sensor on a front reflector bracket.
I tried a Cateye bracket but it was still too small and the screw
wasn't long enough. Does Specialized sell special mounts for
shocks? Or does anyone else have a brilliant solution so I
won't have to spend over $10. Thanks in advance.
From: jlacoss@isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Phil Wood BB, how good are they?
Date: 6 Oct 92 17:34:17 GMT
Reply-To: jlacoss@paddington.isi.edu (Jeff LaCoss)
Organization: USC-Information Sciences Institute

In article <92273.091500FDHEIENO@UCF1VM.BITNET> FDHEIENO@UCF1VM.BITNET writes:
>Before I drop $90 on a Phil Wood BB I'd like a few opinions pro or con.  Are
>they just easier to service or smoother than the garden variety BB?  I don't

 Phil BBs don't need service for, well, a LONG time, if they are
installed properly. They are very smooth under load. They weigh a lot
due to the serious spacer tube.  You need a special tool to install
one.

 I like mine, and it's been cycled through a couple crashed frames
over the course of 12 years. It hasn't needed service.

	Jeff
From: msw10@nepenthe.as (Michael S. Wong)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Dart: H.C. vs. S.C
Date: 28 Sep 92 21:07:30 GMT
Reply-To: msw10@nepenthe.as
Organization: Sun Microsystems

I've decided on getting a Panaracer Dart for my front tire. However, I'm a little
unsure as to whether to select a Hard Condtion Tread pattern (smaller "dart" 
knobs alternate 2 and 3) or Soft Condition pattern (big darts, 1 and 2). For
completeness each is available with wire or kevlar bead, 2.1 or 2.2, and 
soft and hard rubber compounds.

I don't really spend too much time in either condition. Generally I ride in
gravel with small to baseball sized rocks, or a thick, finely grained, "dust"
(for those of you familiar with the Marin Headlands North of San Francisco,
typical trails are Miwok, Coyote Ridge, Eldrige Grade, Shavers Grade, Pacific Coast,
Fish Grade, Hoo-Koo-E-Koo, and Pine Mountain). During the Summer (for which I'm
concerned, I'll ride Storm Controls or Porcupines in the winter), these trails are
hard, but the surface gravel is at least 1" thick, enough to slide. Similarly with
the dust, which is finer and softer than sand and covers an even harder pack than
the graveled (sp?) roads. Both layers are thick enough so that the tire does not
necessarily "punch through" all the way to the hard stuff below. Conversely,
the trail beneath is dry and hard and the tire often does to make some contact.

Which tire is better or does it matter?

Thanks in advance!

Michael Wong
msw10@amdahl.com
From: troc@jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu (John A Savage)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Computers on shocks
Summary: computers on shocks
Date: 28 Sep 92 19:05:48 GMT
Organization: HAC - Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore

Well I had a similar problem, I drilled out the nut embedded in on end of
the magnet bracket, removed the screw and used one of those long electricians
ties, cost is minimal and the bracket fits anything!!!

Mail me for a better description if you need it!

John

Well I had a disclaimer once................
From: jbrandt@hplred.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 23:48:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Why no cantilevers on racing bikes? SORRY
Organization: Hewlett Packard Labs, Palo Alto CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Rabbi Bajzheet writes:                                                          
                                                                                
> Why do racing bicycles never have cantilever brakes? I mean...                
>                                                                               
> Cants are more powerful than conventional caliper/sidepull brakes             
> (whatever Shimano has decided to call them these days)                        
> Cants are lighter than sidepulls                                              
> Cants are easier to service than sidepulls                                    
                                                                                
That's not as nearly true as you would believe.  As has been discussed here     
in the past, all production bicycle brakes have the same mechanical advantage   
of 4:1 between the hand and brake pad.  This ratio is achieved at the hand      
lever while the caliper/centerpull/cantilever has a 1:1 ratio of cable          
movement to pad spacing change.  This condition arises from the ability of      
the average athletic hand having a reach and strength that makes this the       
best configuration.                                                             
                                                                                
Cantilevers are more expensive to attach, more difficult to assemble onto       
the bike and weigh more than sidepull calipers.  The assembly is done on the    
bike, the bike must be manufactured for the specific brake.  If all parts       
of the system are weighed, the cantilever is not lighter.  Whether cantilever   
brakes are easier to service is disputable.  I can replace a whole caliper in   
less time than I can adjust the pad position in three axes on a cantilever.     
The dangling cable parts are not simpler than sidepull brakes.                  
                                                                                
I believe that mud clearance is the principal reason for cantilever brakes.     
                                                                                
jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: tdsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Timothy Smith)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Broken rear dropout
Date: 6 Oct 92 22:09:40 GMT
Reply-To: tdsmith@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Timothy Smith)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, ctillier@phoenix.Princeton.EDU (Clemens Emmanuel Tillier) writes:
> (Mark Alexander) writes:

>>The right rear dropout (Campy) on my 18-year old frame broke last week.

>>Is a broken dropout a rare occurrence?  I have heard of failed braze
>>joints, but not this.

    Yes, broken rear dropouts are fairly common.  Fortunately, on a
steel frame they are fairly easy and inexpensive to replace.  (except 
for the new paint job, of course. But by the time a dropout cracks the
frame probably needs paint anyway...)

    I have broken two frames this way, one in three years and another
in one. I sold the first frame, and am still riding the repaired second.
Both failures were from fatigue, i.e. not from a single large loading.
    I assume hard, out of the saddle efforts are the cause. I also suspect 
that having a jerky sprinting style also contributes to the overload.  
I used to have to re-true my rear wheel every time I came back from 
sprint-practice days.  Now that I have stopped sprinting, I have no 
problems with wheel truing.  (For the record, when I was a decent sprinter 
I weighed 180 lb and could leg press close to 900 lbs.)
    I suppose hard lateral forces on rear wheel (from a jerky out of 
the saddle style) exceed the stress limits for the wheel/dropout structure.
If so, then a climbing style that exagerates the side-to-side flop of
the bicycle would also fatigue the dropouts.

Tim Smith
From: tboyd@reed.edu (Toby Boyd)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Strange groupo discovered, seeking info...
Summary: Rapidly vanishing past
Keywords: Huret TA Stronglight Zeus
Date: 1 Oct 92 07:16:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: reed.1992Oct1.071634.15919
Expires: Yesterday
Followup-To: Zeus query
Distribution: usa
Organization: Reed College, Portland, OR

Hello, All-
  Does anyone know if there is a source (other than garage sales and
auctions) for European components from the 60s and 70s? I'm only
a youngster, but I'm enamored of a cycling past full of names like
Tullio Campagnolo and Eddy 'the Cannibal'. My research indicates
that relatively little has been written on the history of cycling,
and that the technology itself is quitely dissolving in someone's
basement. Is all lost?
                      TB
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech