HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Catfish in the African tank?
Date: 24 Jan 93 19:51:32 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

> Also I have 4 catfishes right now which I would like to keep in the Africans'
> tank.  I have two large (all are 2+ inches) Brochis splendens, and one large
> Corydoras agassizi, and one large Corydoras trilineatus.
> 
> I've researched the two Corydoras species and am fairly sure they can adapt to
> the African's water-hardness, but am not sure of the Brochis species, does
> anyone have any experience to substantiate one way or another?
> 
> 				-Matt

Upon further consulting of Dr. Axelrod's Atlas, I think the fish I named as C.
trilineatus may actually be Corydoras julii.

Anyone?

				-Matt
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: requirements for Lamprichthys tanganicanus
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 93 00:36:09 GMT

ARMANDO VELASQUEZ (c059rbm@utarlg.uta.edu) wrote:
: 
: 
: 	I'm interested in the water quality requirements for the
:  Lamprichthys tanganicanus. The usual stuff like 
: 
: 	ph
: 	disolved salts ( I here they are sensitive in this area )

They are like Tangynikan cichlids in this.  The closer you
come to the lake's conditions, the happier they are.  I don't
think you need to hit it on the head, but certainly keep the pH
above 7.8, and make sure the water is hard.

: 	nitrate sensitivity

Don't know.

: 	tank size requirements
: 	diet

They like a large tank.  They are very active fish, and will be in
constant motion.  I have only heard a bit about keeping them, but
one guy mentioned that he bought an automatic feeder, so that they
would get fed 5x a day - they like to eat.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6732 rec.aquaria:10355
From: 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Catfish in the African tank?
Date: 24 Jan 93 19:48:47 GMT
Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's

When setting up an African tank I want to eventually have the system set up to
maintain a high pH _an_ water-hrdness, right?  Is the best way to do this, just
to put some peices of coral in the water and clean them every so often so they
don't become encrusted with bacteria and fish stuff?

I've heard of some usiong crushed coral gravel, but I have read that it will
eventually lose it's buffering capacity.  Is this important, or is
water-hardness more important than pH to most Africans?

Does anyone know how a clown loach will do in reatively hard water?  I'd liek
to be able to have one (at least until the Africans start to grow up) in this
tank also.

Also I have 4 catfishes right now which I would like to keep in the Africans'
tank.  I have two large (all are 2+ inches) Brochis splendens, and one large
Corydoras agassizi, and one large Corydoras trilineatus.

I've researched the two Corydoras species and am fairly sure they can adapt to
the African's water-hardness, but am not sure of the Brochis species, does
anyone have any experience to substantiate one way or another?

				-Matt
From: cburns@ucs.indiana.edu (Chris Burns)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Catfish in the African tank?
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:35:14 GMT
Followup-To: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Organization: Indiana University

In article <1993Jan24.144847.14004@bsu-ucs>, 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu
wrote:

> 
> Also I have 4 catfishes right now which I would like to keep in the Africans'
> tank.  I have two large (all are 2+ inches) Brochis splendens, and one large
> Corydoras agassizi, and one large Corydoras trilineatus.
> 
>			-Matt

As others have said, keeping corys in an african tank is not a very good
idea, Synodontis or Chrysicthys are better choices.  Keeping corys by
themselves is not a great idea either.  Most will do much better as at
least a small group, preferably a school of 6 or more.

Chris
From: cavalama@bsu-cs.bsu.edu (Randall K. Spicher)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: snails, yum, yum.
Date: 25 Jan 93 20:55:24 GMT
Organization: CS Dept, Ball St U, Muncie, Indiana
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4



Anyone know what fish like to eat snails?  I'd like to control my snail
population the "natural" way.  I'm referring to freshwater fish.

R
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Fluval 303 Question [F]
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 21:47:51 GMT

In article <1993Jan28.040149.28802@crpmks.uucp> marcs@crpmks.uucp (Marc Snyder) writes:
>Hello all,
>	I'm going to be moving my Africans from a 30g tank to a 75g tank.
>I'm currently using a Fluval 303 for filtration.  Will this filter be
>sufficient on a 75g tank?  I was also thinking of using a "T" on the
>filter intake to run two separate intake tubes on opposite sides of the
>tank.  Is this a good idea, or a bad idea?  Will it work?  Thanks for all
>of the help.

I would consider a 303 serious underfiltration for a tank that sized 
with fish that dirty ;)  I use a 403 in my 55 gallon tank.   As for the
"T" idea, I don't see why it wouldn't work, but I'm not sure whether 
it would be worth the effort.

-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks    Nuke Gay Whales for Jesus  
3rd year medical student 		        
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: gs320005@wvnvms.wvnet.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: (F) Red Tail Shark
Date: 21 Jan 93 12:45:45 EST
Organization: West Virginia Network for Educational Telecomputing

HELLO,

I know a person that has 4 Red Tail Sharks and 3 Rainbow Sharks in a 20 long.
They are about 3 years old and 4" - 5" and he would like some more information
on them.

How can you tell male from female?
What should the water conditions be in order to get them to spawn?
What is the best type of food to condition them with?
Do they need a swing in temp to get them ready to spawn?

Thanks,

Neal Benson
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6773 rec.aquaria:10403 sci.aquaria:1920 rec.scuba:7172
From: larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com (Larisa Stephan)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria,rec.scuba
Subject: (M) Restricted live rock collection in Florida
Keywords: EDF, live rock, coral, aquaria
Date: 25 Jan 93 18:02:55 GMT
Reply-To: larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com
Organization: Hughes Aircraft ADS/EOS Electronics Lab

FYI for divers and aquarists out there in net-land.  The (M) in the subject
line is for the benefit of *.aquaria readers.

Reprinted without permission from the _EDF Letter_, vol. xxiv, no. 1 (Jan.
1993), p. 2:

Three Environmental Successes in Florida

[Skipping sub-topics on energy conservation and Florida panthers -- LS]

"CORAL REEFS: Thanks to efforts by EDF scientist Dr. Rodney M. Fujita and
other environmentalists, Florida will phase out the collection of coral rock
in Federal waters off the Florida Coral Reef Tract over the next three years;
harvest from state waters is already banned.  Coral rock, still teeming with
living creatures, has been harvested at the rate of one to three tons a day in
the area to supply saltwater aquariums."

-- Larisa
larisa@tcville.edsg.hac.com
From: c059rbm@utarlg.uta.edu (ARMANDO VELASQUEZ)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: requirements for Lamprichthys tanganicanus
Keywords: water quality requirements
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:02:00 GMT
Organization: The University of Texas at Arlington
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41



	I'm interested in the water quality requirements for the
 Lamprichthys tanganicanus. The usual stuff like 

	ph
	disolved salts ( I here they are sensitive in this area )
	nitrate sensitivity
	tank size requirements
	diet

	The search is still on as of today I have not located any 
	although a few net folks have responded   hopefuly I'll find
	some soon.

	P. Brichard says these fish are endimic to the main lake and
	are not a swamp fish so the ph requirements should be the 
	same as other lake Tanganican fish.

	Any comments and info would be helpful

			Thanks in advance
			Robert Montgomery
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: lucas@spot.Colorado.EDU (Michael A. Lucas)
Subject: [F] [M] killifish, 10 gallon salt tanks (bad idea?)
Keywords: killifish 10 gallon 
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 07:30:50 GMT

I have this very old (10 years) book on killifish.  These are some of
the coollest looking freshwater fish I've ever seen.  I've never seen
any like this at any pet store and I was wondering:
1.  Any good mail order places to get the fi or their eggs?
2.  Why are they so rare in the pet stores?
3.  Do they ever really get to look as good as they did in these pictures
    or was that just some freak mutated fish that the snapped a photo of?
4.  The book talked about some killifish association or something like that,
    is it still around?  Address?


AND, I have an extra 10 gallon tank.  I thought it might be neat to set it
up as a salt tank for an octopus or something like that.  All the pet 
store people say that it is a bad idea to set up a 10 gallon as a salt
tank and then convieniently started showing me thier wonderful selection
of 20 and 30 gallon tanks which WEREN'T to small for salt.  Maybe I'm
being too cynical but I'd like to get some advice on this from someone
who knows about this, and ISN't trying to sell me anything.

Thanks in advance.
Michael Lucas


Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: kjw1@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (kenneth.j.wagner)
Subject: Re: Strange pleco. story
Summary: No April Fool's joke.
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 01:20:08 GMT

In article <1jvg5aINNopr@shelley.u.washington.edu>, stick@carson.u.washington.edu (suzanne cherniack) writes:

> [stuff deleted]
> 
> My question is how the pleco. could've survived for four or so hours
> out of the water.  Are they used to tidal ebbs and flows, or what?
> I'm quite amazed at this and thought I'd post it.  Any replies would
> be appreciated.  

I read an article in Tropical Fish Hobbyist about clown pl*c*s.  It said
that the pl*c* is native to the Amazon basin.  Each spring the basin 
floods and there is an explosion of fish.  When the water recedes most of
the fish dry out or get eaten by birds.  But, the pl*c* will tunnel into
mud banks to ride out the dry spell.  Their gills resist drying and are
able to absorb some oxygen from the air so they can last through the 
summer.

Ken


Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: requirements for Lamprichthys tanganicanus
Keywords: water quality requirements 
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 02:27:48 GMT

In article <27JAN199313021702@utarlg.uta.edu> c059rbm@utarlg.uta.edu (ARMANDO VELASQUEZ) writes:
>	I'm interested in the water quality requirements for the
> Lamprichthys tanganicanus. The usual stuff like 

That's a simple one to answer.  Look at the name!  The fish is from Lake
Tanganyika.  Their water needs exactly match the needs of the Tanganyikan
cichlids.

>	ph

High.  Close to 8 pH is good.

>	disolved salts ( I here they are sensitive in this area )

12 dH or more.  The water has to be *hard*.

>	nitrate sensitivity

Sensitive.  Keep it under 20 ppm.  In fact, since the water is so much like
ocean water, a reef tank type set up may work best.

>	tank size requirements

Big.  Russ Feilzer of SCKC had his school of 1 male and 6 females breeding 
in a 40 gal tank.  The fish get large (4") and need plenty of open swimming
space.

>	diet

Typical lampeye: live foods like brine shrimp and mosquito larvae, flakes.
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
From: kwilson@cds002.hac.com (Rhodan)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: copper
Date: 22 Jan 93 22:28:34 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Company


more to come in a minute...
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: frazier@kona.cs.ucla.edu (Gregory Frazier)
Subject: Re: (All)  New African set-up.
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 19:40:43 GMT

01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu wrote:
: > 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu wrote:
: > : I.e.	how to set up caves for an electric-blue haplochromis-sized fish.
: > : 	the best type of filtration for this sort of set-up.
: > : 	best rocks/gravel to use
: > : 	et cetera
: > 
: > I use crushed coral as a substrate for my UGF. It helps keep the water nice
: > and hard.
: 
: Would dolomite keep the water quite as hard?  I would like to have a black
: substrate, so dolomite, it think, would be better for me.  If dolomite is no
: good, is it possible to get black crushed coral?

I've never seen black dolomite.  I have used dolomite as a substrate, and
the general hardness was over 20 dH.  Very hard.  I understand that marble
will also keep your water hard - obviously, dark marble exists, but I don't
know if you can find it crushed into gravel.

: Where would I go to find this egg-crate stuff?  I've seen it and know what it
: is, but hav never seen a 'sheet' of it for sale.

I've seen it in hardware and home improvement stores - it is used as a
sort of lampshade for fluorescent light fixtures (UCLA is full of them).

: Would gathering as much plain gravel as possible out, layingdown the egg-crate
: (if I could find it) as close to the UGF plate as possible, then replaceing all
: the normal gravel and adding 25lbs of crushed coral be a good idea?

Doesn't sound like a bad idea.  I'd remove all of the fish, first - they'll
do fine in plastic bags or buckets, as long as you complete the operation
w/in an hour or so (don't put nasty cichlids together in the same back or
bucket).

: One way or another, I think I'll probably
: build the rock formation right on the egg-crate, at least before the first time
: I tear the tank down.

Definitely do this.  Gluing is nice, but it puts the pressure on r.e.
getting the interior decorating done right the first try.  If you don't
glue, you *must* slope your stack of rocks - do not pile the rocks in any
way that you might knock them over when vacuuming the gravel.  Lava rock
looks bad, but it is light, which is a definite plus; the choice is yours.

--
"They thought to use and shame me but I win out by nature, because a true
freak cannot be made.  A true freak must be born." - K. Dunn, _Geek Love_

Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6702 rec.aquaria:10306
From: erik@marge.phys.washington.edu (Erik D. Olson)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (All)  New African set-up.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 19:02:22 GMT
Organization: Cosmic Ray Labratory, University of Washington
NNTP-Posting-Host: scratchy.phys.washington.edu

>> I use crushed coral as a substrate for my UGF. It helps keep the water nice
>> and hard.
>Would dolomite keep the water quite as hard?  I would like to have a black
>substrate, so dolomite, it think, would be better for me.  If dolomite is no
>good, is it possible to get black crushed coral?

I've heard dolomite doesn't quite hack it for keeping the pH up.  I use a 
mixture of crushed coral and dark gravel.

>Where would I go to find this egg-crate stuff?  

Go to any hardware store.  It is sold in 2x4 foot rectangles for use in 
suspended ceilings as a lighting baffle.

>> In one tank I use lava rock and it looks fine. In another tank the rock is
>> around 80% flattish river rocks and it looks better. Casual unbiased observers
>> seem to prefer the river rock from an aesthetic point of view.

>So just go for 'normalish' looking rocks?  Did you gather yours froma river, or
>buy them?  Where?

Go to a rockery.  Any of those places that specializes in large quantities 
of rocks.  I picked up 150 pounds of alpine green granite for .20/lb.  If I 
had known how much algae would grow, I would have gotten the cheaper stuff 
at .05-.10/lb instead.

>Did you use aquarium sealant to glue your rocks together as I heard 
suggested>to keep tyhe rocks from falling down when the fish sart 
undermining in the>gravel?  Would you recommend this?  One way or another, I 
think I'll probably>build the rock formation right on the egg-crate, at 
least before the first time>I tear the tank down.

I like you guys' ideas on this.  I don't use an UGF with my Africans [N. 
lelupi, N. "daffodil", N. savoryi, J. marlieri], but am worried they might 
start digging out under the rocks now that they're bigger.  I'll put 
eggcrate by itself covered with gravel on the tank base so the rocks wont 
crack the glass if they hit bottom.

   Erik
---
Erik D. Olson                              erik@marge.phys.washington.edu
UW Cosmic Ray Laboratory                        olson@phys.washington.edu
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
From: jpenix@uceng.uc.edu (John Penix)
Subject: Re: (All)  New African set-up.
Organization: University of Cincinnati
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:16:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan21.113054.13896@bsu-ucs> 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>I have a 30 gallon (standard) tank which is as yet (mostly) unpopulated, and I
>am thinking on making an African Cichlid tank out of it.  I am wondering if
>anyone has some suggestions on how to best set up a new tank for this?
>
>I.e.	how to set up caves for an electric-blue haplochromis-sized fish.
>
>			-Matt

A 30 will be too small for this size of fish when they become adults.  You
might want to consider smaller africans, like brichardi.  They would be
happier in this size of tank.  When the Haps reach 5-7" they will be
crowded and become very agressive.

-- 
John Penix                 Wife:    "It was sex and drink that killed
jpenix@uceng.uc.edu                  your uncle, sex and drink!"
University of Cincinnati   Husband: "Ya, he couldn't get either one
College of Engineering               of 'em, so he shot himself."   -Benny Hill
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6677 rec.aquaria:10255 sci.aquaria:1903
From: jolico@IRO.UMontreal.CA (Lucie Jolicoeur)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Help! Red gills!
Keywords: Goldfish
Date: 21 Jan 93 18:33:43 GMT
Followup-To: poster
Organization: Universite de Montreal

A week ago, he wasn't as dynamic as usual and was beginning to rub and
shake himself: not knowing what to do, I've put some methylene blue and
a little bit of salt in the aquarium.

3 days ago, I noticed a redness on his "chin": his gills were attacked!
So I replaced 2/3 of the water (because of the methylene) and pour in
some "LIFE BEARER" from "Aquarium Products".  It says that it will stop
both rubbing and shaking in less then 48 hours... Well, it's been about
42 hours, and he's not feeling better. But he still like to eat (his
dorsal fin goes strait up!). 

What can I do to save him? On the "LIFE BEARER", it's not said what to
do AFTER the 48 hours... Should I pour some of it(the same qty ?) UNTIL
he's ok? Or should I try another product(which one?) and change the water
again, risking giving him STRESS...

Please help me! This fish is not a decoration, I LOVE him!!

Thank you,

Claire-Helene

N.B.:Is it possible that "LIFE BEARER" is not working because it could be
     too "old"??
From: James.Bunting@dartmouth.edu (James Bunting)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: Exotic Aquaria phone/address
Date: 28 Jan 93 01:30:50 GMT
Organization: Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH
X-Posted-From: InterNews1.0a6@newshost.dartmouth.edu

I've read nice things about a company called Exotic Aquaria, which
deals in live rock; could someone who has dealt with them give me their
phone and/or address?
Thanks - Blair, Dartmouth Med. Sch.
From: sarah@astro.ocis.temple.edu (Sarah Breedin)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria
Subject: IceCap ballasts?
Date: 24 Jan 93 23:09:17 GMT
Organization: Temple University
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8]

I'm interested in information about IceCap electronic ballasts for
fluorescent lights.  Does anyone out there own one?  I'm wondering if
there's a justification for the high cost.  It looks like the going
price for one is $165 (from two different ads in FAMA).  A similar
shop-light type ballast might run as much as $20, if that.

The IceCap ballast will run 2-4 bulbs, totalling up to 450 watts, and
is allegedly unfinicky about the exact types and combination of bulbs.
Is adaptability true in practice?

There are lots of interesting claims in the ad, but it's kind of hard
to be sure what they're claiming.  (eg. "62% less electricity" Less
than what, and consumed by the ballast, the lights, or both?)

What are the bad aspects of IceCaps?  Any?  (eg. hums loudly, or
trashes your TV reception, ...)

Finally, one of the advertisers of this ballast, Champion Supply Co,
is quite close to where I live.  I drove by (at night), but couldn't
find anything that looked like a major distributor of electronic
equipment.  Anyone ever dealt with this outfit?

Thanks,
Ben (using Sarah's account)
Xref: sparky alt.aquaria:6728 rec.aquaria:10349 sci.aquaria:1913
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: Thin Mollies
Date: 24 Jan 1993 14:07:15 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
NNTP-Posting-Host: hplsdum.col.hp.com

weekley@helios.phy.ohiou.edu (Don Weekley) writes:
> 
>  Hello folks,
> 
> 	I seem to have a bit of a problem. I have a set of 3
> Black Lyretail Mollies that are extremely thin. I have been
> treating them and their tankmates using Tetramin Medicated 
> food and Aquarium Products Quick Cure for a week now. I started
> using the medicated food because they were thin and I suspected 
> an internal parasite of some sort, and then the next day two of
> the Mollies showed ICK (argh!).
>  ...

It sounds like these mollies are in bad shape because of the
conditions they are living under.

Black molies are best in brackish water and do VERY poorly in
fresh water.  Mollies in general prefer a diet high in green
vegies.  They love cooked lettus etc.

-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com