HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mascdb@gdr.bath.ac.uk (C D Burdorf)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Lotus Turbo Espirits...Used...$$$?
Date: 11 Dec 92 11:25:19 GMT
Organization: School of Mathematics, University of Bath, UK

In the referenced article, cew6@po.CWRU.Edu (Carlin E. Wiegner) writes:
>
>Does anybody know how much '87 or '88 Turbo Espirits go for?
>How reliable are Lotuses?
>Can I get one with 10-20k miles for less than 30k?
>They have limited slip, right?
>CW

Turbo espirit HC's are listed 9000 to 12000 pounds in the UK.  That's
for 87 and 88 models.
From: cka52397@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Slartibartfast)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: how does J. D. Powers determine a best buy?
Date: 12 Dec 92 00:25:24 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana


	{Annoying barbs at Clinton being maske by a seemingly valid
	question deleted}

	Yeah, Clinton _is_ suppressing the JD Power survey, but he won
the election.  Oh well, that is what I expect from someone who picked up thY
Sun-Times before the Tribune.


-- 
 Chintan Amin  The University of Illinois, Urbana Champaign  c-amin1@uiuc.edu
  "Public speaking is very easy!" <-- Quayle 10/88  ;-)
  "Unfortunately, the people of Louisiana are not racists" <-- Quayle, 10/12/90
NeXTMail Accepted  Go Illini *Holiday Bowl* Go Capitals Go Tarheels Go Cowboys 
From: knotts@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Tom Knotts)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 20:50:10 GMT
Subject: Re: JAPAN fair? US fair??
Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos

> 
>   I dunno here, this is a tough call I love this country but then I
>   don't love the BIG 3 automakers for their screwing of the American 
>   public, if it was a close call between a US car and a Japanese car
>   I would suck up my gut and buy the American one, up til now I haven't
>   seen anything close except Saturn and they are years away from having
>   a decent engine( noise wise).

Perhaps the larger engine is noisey, but I hear no significant amount
of noise in my SL. It is extremely quiet, much more so than my wife's
Ford Tempo, and quieter than my '79 Honda.

Tom
From: hhtra@usho72.hou281.chevron.com (T.M.Haddock)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: OLDsmobile name change
Date: 16 Dec 92 23:10:44 GMT
Organization: Chevron

In article <1992Dec16.142004.5004@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com>, c23st@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Spiros Triantafyllopoulos) writes:
|> In article <14030@texsun.Central.Sun.COM> dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM writes:
|> >its name.  GM did not pick an Italian name at random, or it could just as well
|> >have called its model the Chevrolet Antonio, or something.  Instead, it took
|>                                      ^^^^^^
|> >the name of an exotic, European, weapon.  Cars are often named after weapons-
|> >Cutlass, Saber, etc.
|> 
|> As far as the Chevy Antonio, does anyone know of car names that are actual
|> PEOPLE first names? 
|> 
|> Spiros

 Edsel, Pontiac, DeSoto, Hudson, ...

 
Xref: sparky rec.autos:30220 rec.autos.tech:16969
From: rtoth@athos.rutgers.edu (Robert Toth)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
Subject: Problems with 86 Buick Century
Date: 20 Dec 92 21:12:19 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.


I just started experiencing a problem with an 86 Buick Century.  The
Check Engine Soon lite has come on and the car is very hard to start.
It has a 2.5l with 3spd auto.  I think there is a problem with the TBI
unit because when you try and start it it makes a whistling sound and
pours fuel out of the injector when the key is at the run position but
the engine hasn't started.  I've looked through the Chilton manual and
it says to retrieve the error codes to ground the diagnostic connector
under the dash but doesn't say what the connector looks like.  The
only thing I see is the 12 position connector and a single wire plug
labled PACK CON.  If anyone else has exprerienced ths problem or cann
offer any help please do.  I am planning on bringing it to a shop
after the holidays.


Much thanks in advance.


...rob
-- 



**************************************************************************
*Robert Toth					rtoth@cs.rutgers.edu     *
*Telecommunications Technician						 *
*LCSR Computing Fac.			   !rutgers!cs.rutgers.edu!rtoth *
*CoRE Bldg Busch Campus							 *
*P.O. Box 879								 *
*Piscataway, N.J. 08855							 *
**************************************************************************
From: squigg@gssec.bt.co.uk (Stephen Quigg)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Vector Sex Wax 2000 or whatnot (was Re: >>>>Best undercover car)
Date: 17 Dec 92 15:51:54 GMT
Organization: BT Glasgow Systems and Software Engineering Centre, Scotland.


-- 
	F1 buggies develop 700-800bhp from 3.5l 
, and the Vector doesn't just weigh well over a ton , I think it actually
 weighs over two tons ....

Stephen Quigg
squigg@gssec.bt.co.uk 
British Telecom , GSSEC , Glasgow
(Nothing in any of my mail represents my Employer in any way)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,uk.misc
From: wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii)
Subject: Re: Immobilising a diesel
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 19:12:52 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]

Eddie Rooney (eddie@cstr.ed.ac.uk) wrote:
: Is there an easy way of immobilizing a diesel engine, in the same way as you might
: remove the rotor arm on a petrol engine, or disconnect the coil?  Any ideas
: appreciated.

Potato in the tailpipe?  Yank the glow plug wires (doesn't work as well in
the summer)?  Yank the fuel pump wires (if electric)?  Close the Jake Brake
(if it's got one)?  Obstruction in the air cleaner?  Remove the linkages
to the intake butterfly valve?

Somehow you've got to cut off the air, fuel or exhaust.  If it's a GM
rig then most of these are done for you automatically...   ;-)

Is this for use as a prank?  Or has someone been stealing your rig?

Wes Fujii
________________________________________________________________
      ___   ___ ___ 
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /    A real motor is an Oldsmobile Rocket 455
   /  HURST //  /    "This is NOT the new generation of Olds"
  /  /  /  //  /_________
 /__/  /__//  //  _____  \
          /  //  /    /  /      Wes "BANZAI" Fujii
         /  //  /OLDS/  /          Boise, Idaho
        /  //  /____/  /      wesf@hpdmd48.boi.hp.com
       /__/ \_________/ 

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: oberland@vax.sonoma.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: WHAT GM to Buy?
Date: 18 Dec 92 10:50:53 GMT
Organization: Sonoma State University

I need help.

My father has a friend who is in her 70's(should be around for 10-15 more
years, though).  She wants a nice car.
Problems:
She will only consider GM cars.
V-6 is a plus
Luxury cars are OUT, as she wants to spend as little as possible.
Small cars are out as well, a are sporty cars(she's no rece-car driver,
BUT she still drives competantly.

She needs a vehicle that will last 10 years, or about as long as she will.

15-18K is an acceptable range.(not including tax and such)ie:price without
a ton of options/avg price

Anti-lock brakes and Air-bag are a MAJOR plus to her.

Must be able to get out of its own way, but no hot-rod.

Any suggestions?(I told her to get an import or a 1-2 year old Volvo sedan)
She won't buy an import, and won't buy anything but GM.

Thanks, and I need ideas before the 24th(vax here goes down for 2 weeks).
Joe
From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Looking for Jeep YJ Opinions...
Date: 14 Dec 92 20:13:27 GMT
Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems


I have a 92 Jeep Wrangler with 11,000 miles.  I knew it would be uncomfortably
jouncy, noisy, spartan, etc., so have no problem with how it rides.  Performance
with the 4.0 is great, great heater, fun in the rough.

But an overpriced piece of ^#&$ from the reliability standpoint.  I have just
started talking to a lawyer, and we are going to pursue my state's Lemon Law
to get a refund.

Many little things go wrong, and go wrong repeatedly.  They are unfixable.
Chrysler Service has done what it could.

The sad part is, this is a very simple design, has lots of markup built into
its price, and has very little retooling costs from one year to the next.  But
Chrysler does not mind putting out this poor product.

I'm now considering what US car to buy as a replacement.  I'm looking at Saturn,
Taurus, etc.  But you know what?  I am so gun shy because of this experience
that I'll probably buy a Toyota.  I had 4 Toyotas before my venture back into
a US car company, and it's going to take a lot of convincing to get me to stay
with a US company.

Advice:  Shun the YJ/Wrangler.

	Dave
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: msulliva@news.ccutah.edu (Mark G. Sullivan)
Subject: <<<< H E L P (I need an engine) >>>>
Organization: University of Utah Computer Center
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 22:20:04 GMT

	Hello to all, I am looking (very hard too) for an EA63 Subaru engine.
This motor goes to a '76 4WD wagon. I have looked throughout the state of
Utah, but have had no luck. I can purchase a new one for $1,000 , but I am
hopeful I can get responses from my fellow netters. Any suggestions ?
		thanks,
				mark g. sullivan
From: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM (John Fox - SunExpress IR)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: SHO Electrical Troubles
Date: 14 Dec 1992 15:51:31 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: hooksett.east.sun.com

In article uupcb@cutting.hou.tx.us, david.bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us (David Bonds)  writes:
>  >>My 90 SHO mysteriously died once again.  My wife just called me to inform that
>  >>it does not start.  It does not even crank and there is no clicking noise
>  >>either.
>  >>
>  >>After 2nd Motorcraft battery died on me last August, I had put an 1000CCA
>  >>after market battery in it.  But I suspect for some obscure reason, after
>  >>12-15 months of service, batteries in SHO just quit.
>
>My battery died in much the same way a few months back.  It was the ORIGINAL
>Motorcraft battery, and the car is an '89.  Think they last more then a year,
>but much more...  I installed a battery that has (I think) 660 CCA, seems to
>of run it fine since then.  I had my mechanic check out the electrical and
>charging system since then, and it was fine.  I suspect the problem lies more
>with the Motorcraft battery then the SHO charging system.
>
>- Dave Bonds 
>- Internet : David.Bonds@cutting.hou.tx.us
>---
> . KingQWK 2.00 .6 # 145 . Borg Tagline Assimilator - Ver. 01.32.24.52.13 
>                                                    
>----
>+-------------------------------------------+
>| The Cutting Edge BBS (cutting.hou.tx.us)  |
>| Houston, Texas, USA    +1 713 466 1525    |
>+-------------------------------------------+


I don't know if it's already been mentioned here, but I thought Ford had
acknowledged this problem, and was replacing the front "grill" with a
narrower one?
I was in an accident back in June with my SHO, and the grill they used
definately is about 1.5 inches shorter than the original - and what I
see on regular Tauri.


John
































Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: rshankar@top.cis.syr.edu (Ravi V. Shankar)
Subject: Car Horn circuit
Organization: Syracuse University, CIS Dept.
Distribution: na
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 18:07:29 EST


I was in the process of fixing a new horn to my car when I noticed something
funny with the circuit. One of the wires leading to the horn is directly 
connected to +12 volts with only a 10 amp fuse along the line. The other is
connected to the negative terminal of the battery (ground?) with the horn 
switch in between.

Is there any reason for the horn to *always* have a +12 volt supply? The
horn works fine when it doesn't touch the car body. When it does touch
the car body, the circuit is complete, and the horn starts beeping even
when the horn switch is not pressed.

Should I mount the horn so that it is insulated from the car body? What
happens, if by some chance, the car's front end gets banged up? The car
in question is an '81 Toyota Tercel. I've checked the circuit diagram in
one of those Haynes manuals. It shows the switch between the ground
and the horn.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ravi
From: milo@dorm.rutgers.edu (Jim  mielo)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: lidar (laser) stealth car
Date: 15 Dec 92 18:27:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos
Organization: rutgers university

In article <1992Dec14.142909.24020@microware.com>, troyf@microware.com
(Troy Frericks) wrote:
> 
> Does anybody know if a black car reduces the effective
> range of lidar?  What about matt black?
> 
> Does a bra with head-light covers reduce range?


    Car and driver did an article on this some time ago. Black without
chrome is best. So is a car with small headlights. The chrome emblem on the
cougar they used in the test was good for a few hundred feet ( not a quote)
in detection range.They kept on blacking things out as they went along ie
trim pieces, headlight, wiper arms, etc. I think they finally got the car
down to about 800 feet before the lidar locked on. Look for an old issue,
it does a better job with numbers than I can.



> 
> -
> Troy Frericks                      Internet: troyf@MICROWARE.COM
> Microware Systems Corporation          UUCP: uunet!mcrware!troyf
> 1900 NW 114th St                      Phone: (515)224-1929
> Des Moines, IA 50325-7077               Fax: (515)224-1352

James Mielo
Rutgers College of Pharmacy '94
milo@dorm.rutgers.edu

 owner of a now fixed 1990 GTi 8v
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!)
Subject: Re: Flames for GM Body Holes!
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 22:42:00 GMT

ah190@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Pearl) writes:

>In the driver and passenger compartment (front) floor wells under the
>carpeting, there is a silver dollar size plug right in the sheet metal.
>Knock this thin plug out and you've got a view of the street - kind
>of like a Flintstone mobile.  Mine were easy to remove since the rust
>had nearly destroyed them.  Mind you, this was a car that had been 
>rustproofed several times.

>What is the purpose of these 2 holes?  Nothing connects to them.  My 
>gripe is that I would have had no rust at all in this area had there
>not been this break in the sheet metal.  

Those plugs are there for drainage during assembly.  I can't exactly remember
what needs to drain, whether it's paint or pre-painting chemicals or what, but
without those holes, SOMETHING would accumulate in a puddle in the floors.
Ironically, when I restored the BMW, the areas around the plugs were some of
the LEAST-rusted areas in the floor and wheelwell.  (BTW, check under every-
thing in the trunk.  There's probably a similar plug or two back there.)

If you ask me, the rust problem could be a RESULT of rustproofing, not an oc-
currence IN SPITE of rustproofing.  Where did you get the car rustproofed?  I
keep hearing about cars that had professional rustproofing done, either at the
shop or at the dealer, that started rusting a lot sooner than they should have.
I think the "professional" rustproofers get just a little too careless about
making sure no moisture, salt, etc. is trapped inside the rustproof coating.
This, BTW, is a fun game:  Look at cars that have Rusty Jones or one of the
other rustproofing stickers on them, and see if they're rusted.  More often than
not, at least around Chicago, they are.  Hmmm....
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael T. Chaffee        | mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu  |  ______    
                                                       |  \    /   HATE
"I chased a rainbow down a one-way street.  Dead end." |   \  /  is not a
     - S. P. McCall                                    |    \/  FAMILY VALUE
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rchong@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Raymond Chong)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: RE: NEWS OF 94' ACCORDS
Date: 15 Dec 92 17:14:07 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA

In rec.autos, erich.lim@yob.sccsi.com (Erich Lim) writes:


>   Yeah, the Accord is supposed to revised for 94 or 95 at the latest.
> Honda usually does a makeover every 4 or 5 years.  But the new
> generation Accord's are going to finally be equipped with the long
> awaited V6 to put it in the competition that has left the Accord in
> dust.  The Accord is also going to be slightly bigger (not much though)
> and is supposed to have a more low profile body styling.  That's all I
> have heard of for now..


	I remember reading in Business Week that they might consider
	scrapping the V6 engine for the next model year due to money
	constraints (apparently Japanese car makers aren't doing so
	well these days...)
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!)
Subject: Re: Removing Tyre Rubber from Driveway
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 07:03:46 GMT

cathy@cc.uow.edu.au (Cathy Nicastri) writes:

>Does anyone know how to remove tyre rubber from driveway

AAAIIIEEEEE!!!  Do you have to get it out before Mom & Dad come home?  Or did
your kid leave it there?  Or is it one of those cement driveways that seem to
GROW skid marks?

(Insert smilies in above paragraph.)

Seriously though, I can't say I've ever had to deal with that problem.  One
thing I would try would be TSP-90.  It's an industrial degreasing detergent,
but it seems to clean up damn near anything.  It's probably environmentally un-
safe, though; everything worthwhile is.  I would take an aqueous solution of
TSP-90 (guess who's studying for a chem final) and scrub it into the offending
marks with a push broom, then rinse after leaving it to sit for a while.  If
that doesn't work, you could try other soaps, detergents, etc. until you find
one that works.  I don't know of any product made for that specific purpose.

If it's an asphalt driveway, and the problem is a skid or peel-out mark, I
think you will find that it's burned into the surface of the blacktop.  The
only way to get rid of these marks will be to re-seal the driveway.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael T. Chaffee        | mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu  |  ______    
                                                       |  \    /   HATE
"I chased a rainbow down a one-way street.  Dead end." |   \  /  is not a
     - S. P. McCall                                    |    \/  FAMILY VALUE
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.tech
From: bowmanj@csn.org (Jerry Bowman)
Subject: Re: When I turn, it gets noisy.....
Organization: University of Colorado Boulder, OCS
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 17:03:56 GMT

In article <1992Dec11.113122.192@janus.arc.ab.ca> erkamp@janus writes:
>In article <9212080934.AA28233@enet-gw.pa.dec.com>, paulman@hkmeg1.enet.dec.com (HKO MANUFACTURING ENGINEERING  08-Dec-1992 1726) writes:
>>Hi,
>>
>>My car is an 85 Honda Civic with 56,000 km (Yes, 56,000 km).
>>
>>Since last couple of weeks, it starts getting very noisy with a "long, 
>>long" sound when I make a turn (say a right angle turn).   The faster I go, 
>>the louder the sound.  However, I don't hear the noise when I am going 
>>straight.   I can't locate the source of the noise, can anyone of you
>>tell me what and why it is?
>>
>
>Possibly related to the front brakes (rubbing?). Does the noise go away/change 
>when brakes are applied during turning?
>
>Bob

check out your c.v. joints.


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Real Life?!?! HA!!)
Subject: Re: Emblems, names and meanings...
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 04:41:46 GMT

wesf@boi.hp.com (Wes Fujii) writes:


>I was just curious where some of the emblems and names from the
>different manufacturer's come from (Ford is pretty obvious).
>In these days of "customer recognition" I'm sure that much
>attention is paid to these cosmetic details. 

Well, I can only speak for a couple emblems, but here goes:

Porsche's badge combines the emblems of Stuttgart and (I think) Munich.  It has
not changed one iota since the 356.

BMW's badge is an art-deco stylized spinning propeller, reflecting BMW's
aviation history.  Again, the only thing that has changed on this badge since
the 1920's is the style of the block lettering around the top that says BMW.

Audi's badge, five rings, symbolizes the five original corporations that were
amalgamated to form Auto Union : Horch, DKW, Wanderer, and two others I forget.
It's stayed the same since whenever Auto Union formed.

VW's "VW" emblem has been around forever, and I think the "Wolfsburg" emblem
you see once in a while is as old as the company as well.

MG's logo (its initials inside an octagon) has stayed the same at least since
the 1950's.

The Jag logo (Head-on view of a jaguar) has been the same since at least the
'50s.

Ferrari's logo, the crest of Maranello if I remember correctly, has stayed the
same since the birth of the company.

The crossed flags of the Corvette logo indicate racing, one of the original
reasons the 'Vette was built.

The Japanese logos are all SO unimaginative:  I think Subaru and Mazda are the
only two that have any badge other than the first initial of the company.  They
do keep changing, too; you'd think the Japanese weren't proud of their past or
something.

Rolls Royce:  Two R's, the same since the early 1900's.

Mercedes:  I don't know the origin of the three-pointed star, but it hasn't
changed since at least the 1920's.

Lotus's emblem is a yellow circle with a green triangle-like thing inside it;
inside the triangle thing is ACBC intertwined; these are the initials of the
man who founded the company, Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman.  The logo has stayed
the same since the company started.

In all, it appears the Europeans take things like the name badges more
seriously, and are more constant than either the Japanese or the Americans.
Wonder why.....


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael T. Chaffee        | mchaffee@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu  |  ______    
                                                       |  \    /   HATE
"I chased a rainbow down a one-way street.  Dead end." |   \  /  is not a
     - S. P. McCall                                    |    \/  FAMILY VALUE
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: brad@buck.viewlogic.com (Bradford Kellogg)
Subject: Re: '87 BMW 635csi
Originator: brad@buck
Organization: Viewlogic Systems, Inc.
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 23:55:36 GMT


In article <ahusain.39@comm1>, ahusain@comm1 (Asad Husain) writes:
|> In article <1992Dec14.195118.10783@viewlogic.com> brad@buck.viewlogic.com (Bradford Kellogg) writes:

[stuff deleted]

|> >If you can afford one, you will probably like it very much, assuming you 
|> >don't mind being perceived as an unrepentant yuppie.
|> 
|> >Asta la vista
|> What would you choose instead

I would probably go for something more like a Maserati 228, but this is
not for practical reasons, I hasten to add. A good example of a 228 would
also be costly, and probably more demanding than the BMW in maintenance. 

My comment about unrepentant yuppies was fecetious, reflecting only that 
the BMW does not fit my own sense of preferred image. When it comes to
cars, I prefer things that are unusual, at least slightly exotic, and 
not as widely coveted as some; in a word, something a bit bizarre. The 
BMW 635csi is an excellent car, and if you like it, by all means buy it. 
With a manual shift, I certainly would prefer it over anything from Lexus 
or Infiniti or Mercedes.

Given the choice though, I would look for something more offbeat, but that
is simply a matter of taste.

- BK
Newsgroups: rec.autos