HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Gary R Pimm)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: POWER FILTERS
Date: 20 Aug 92 03:03:10 GMT
Article-I.D.: tekig7.6636
Reply-To: garyp@tekig5.pen.tek.com
Organization: Tektronix, Inc., Beaverton,  OR.

In article <1992Aug19.202218.1@vaxb.acs.unt.edu> ig30@vaxb.acs.unt.edu writes:
>I am considering purchasing several power filters and would like to hear your
>opinions and experiences with WHISPER power filters and AQUA CLEAR power
>filters. I am particularly interested about reliabily, ease of use and
>maintainance, regarding these brands. I am also interested in other brands you
>feel are superior to the above mentioned.
>

Well right now I am using quite a colection of power filters. There is a
dynaflow 150, autoflow 150, whisper 300, aqua clear mini, and aqua clear 150.

Of all the filters I like the design of the aqua clear's the best.
Reason- the aqua clear has a block of foam as the bio filter. 
All the others use variations of the whisper's bio bag. If you dispose of the
element as recomended you through away your bio filter.

I load the aqua clear diffrent than the manufacturer recomends because I don't
use carbon in my tanks. I place a square of the bonded filter material in the 
bottom of the filter and then place two foam elements on top. One advantage 
of this is you get a large stable bio filter. This way I can clean the dirt
out of the filter with out disturbing the bio media. It also keeps the foam
pretty clean. When I do clean the bio filter I only clean one of the foam
blocks leaving the other undisturbed. Also if you need to setup a new tank
(assuming that you put the same kind of filter in your new tank) just take
one of the foam blocks from your existing filter and you have an instant "aged
tank".

So far I have not had any failures in any of my power filters.

Hope this info helps.

gary
>Thanks in advance
>
>Ruvan
>
>IG30@VAXB.ACS.UNT.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: srs@oasis.icl.co.uk (Steve Strong)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Internal power filters
Date: 19 Aug 92 09:10:25 GMT
Organization: ICL, Bracknell, Berkshire, RG12 4SN, UK
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I've got two tanks, both with internal power filters. Does anyone have 
any tips on how to lift these things out of the tank without all the 
rubbish flowing out again?

Cheers,

Steve
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Strong - email srs@oasis.icl.co.uk      | Wasn't me. I didn't say that.
               voice 44 344 424842 extn 2279  | Definitely got the wrong guy.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: kwilson@hac.com (Kevin Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Quarantine tank questions
Date: 14 Aug 92 00:55:07 GMT

Sherman@128.147.155.27 (Sherman Uitzetter) writes:




>   I have a 55 gallon marine tank and I want to get a
>powder blue tang real soon but this time I want to do
>it right.  What is the minimum amount of stuff I need
>to set up a quarantine tank?  Is 10 gallons big enough?
>How should I filter it?  Are you supposed to keep your
>quarantine tank running all the time so that it's ready
>when you need it, or do you just fill it with water
>from your main tank whenever you need it?  Obviously
>the only thing I know about a quarantine tank is how to
>spell quarantine.  Any discussion of this topic will
>be helpful.


>Thanks,
r

yes a 10 gallon tank should be adequate given that the size of the new specimen
is less than 4 inches.  Minimum equipment includes a 50 watt submersible
heater, an airlift tube with a foam filter placed at the base driven by a
small airpump, and subdued lighting.  In addition a small piece of Tufa rock 
should be placed in the tank to serve as a place to hide so as to make the new sspeciment feel comfortable.  The quarantine tank can be set up all the time, 
however, is really not necessary.  You can keep the foam part of the quarantine
tank filter in your main tank (or wet/dry filter sump if you have one)
to colonize the necessary bacteria and just remove it from the main tank and
place it in the quarantine tank when ready and you have instant biological
filter.---kevin

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Cannister Filters
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:29:18 GMT

In article <1992Aug17.134718.19011@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff) writes:
>I finally got a Fluval 403 for a 110-gallon tank, primarily because it allowed
>the tank to get close to the wall in the back.
>
>Now I understand that its hard to change the media because the cut-off
>valves supplied tend to break with extended use.  So my question is:

Question is moot IMHO, as I've been using my shut off valves for a couple
of years and, KOW, have never had a problem yet.



>Also the fish store owner says he doesn't bother with the spray bar, since
>its unsightly.  He simply has the return water jet out of a tube hanging in
>the tank.  Does this sound right?  Is it OK to dispense with the spray bar?
>Pros and Cons?

Up to you.  I use the spray bar to get a more even current in my 55 gal tank
with a 403, just make sure that bare tube doesn't flop out of the tank!!!



-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
3rd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
From: kevins@eng.auburn.edu (Kevin Sullivan)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Fluorescent Starter Socket Source, was Re: Lighting Question?
Date: 23 Aug 92 13:34:54 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Auburn University Engineering

I found a starter socket at an appliance parts store.
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: A ridiculously tall, thin octagon tank
Date: 18 Aug 92 02:48:27 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft
X-Disclaimer: I speak for myself only unless explicitly indicated otherwise

chris@unislc.uucp (Chris DelPrete) writes:
>I "inherited" a six-foot tall, octagon acrylic tank. 

To quote Brian Reid: "It's perfect for growing dope".

>And I never, ever want to >have to clean it out once it is set up.

Forget it.  It's impossible.  If you have water in the tank, you will 
have the bacterial slime growing on the walls.  If you also have light,
you will have brown and green algae.  You *will* have to clean the tank
regardless of the tricks you are going to devise.  Even if you have such a
low bioload that the bacterial slime is nearly invisible, the snail and fish
crap will accumulate.

Having said all that, I must say that a 6' tall column CAN look nice.
Instead of looking for a miracle filtration method, I would buy a magnetic
glass scraper and get a standard cleaning siphon, attach to it 18' of 
vinyl hose and rig up to it a 5-6' long, non-corroding handle.  With these
tools you should be able to keep the tank clean.

You will also need some sort of a telescoping handle for a fish net so
you can pull out dead fish and such -- I would not even think of trying
to catch fish in that tank.

For lighing, I recommend a low-wattage (150 W or less) metal halide bulb 
with a fan cooling.  You will need the intensity of light to punch through 
6' of water.  Plant long-leaved plants like Crinum or Vallisnaria gigantea,
which can send their leaves all the way to the top of the tank.  Use
low-light tolerant plants like Anubias and Java fern for the bottom
planting.  For the plants' sake and to make cleaning easier I recommend
using coarse sand for the substrate.

For filtration, my preference would be for low-volume power or canister
filter with the intake near the bottom of the column and a spray or
water-fall return.  I would prefer low-volume because with a low fish load
you don't really need vigorous filtration and a high vertical current a 
high-volume filter will create will really confuse the fish.
-- 
"Republicans understand the importance of bondage between a mother and 
child." -- Dan Quayle
 
Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Subject: Re: Angle Fish breeding temperature
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 15:38:36 GMT

In article raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design) writes:
>In article luke@tfs.com (Luke Matam) writes:
>>breeding. The temperature for breeding is listed at 86 F. This seemed very
>This is higher than required, mostly my angels (P. scalare) spawn at temps
>in the 80-82 deg F range. I believe that the absolute temp isn't as 

Mine breed every 2-3 weeks regularly, at 76 deg F.  I used to attribute it 
to temp flux per my water changes, but now I'm not sure.
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
From: mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Crickets for fish food?
Date: 20 Aug 92 13:22:37 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

In article <Bt8y55.rr@andy.bgsu.edu> graue@andy.bgsu.edu (Louis Graue) writes:
>
>There are lots of crickets in my yard now.  I wonder if it would be a good
>idea to catch some and feed them to my angel  fish?

I would recommend against this. First off, even if you don't spread
pesticides in your yard, crickets travel and fish ingesting them may be
poisoned. Secondly, a cricket is a good-sized bug, I think you'll find
angelfish too small to consume them successfully (they're better for Pacus or
larger cichlids like Oscars.) Also, I'm not sure how good a food
they are - maybe as an occasional treat since they are similar to what
the large wild fish eat, but you'd be better off culturing earthworms and
grindal worms as a live food than crickets. Finally, most pet shops sell
them as foods for herps and they're not that expensive to acquire, plus the
ones bought from pet shops *should* be free of pesticides.
-- 
"I am the chosen one."  | Copyright 1992 mattk@usl.com. Permission for
                        | reproduction in printed media or by pay-for-read
"And I Choose to be     | services explicitly disallowed. Permission granted to
shopping!"              | USENET and like free facilities.
From: erik@marge.phys.washington.edu (Erik D. Olson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Another Beginner's Questions
Date: 17 Aug 92 19:51:00 GMT
Article-I.D.: marge.erik.70.714081060
Distribution: usa
Organization: Cosmic Ray Labratory, University of Washington

In article <1992Aug16.135111.12329@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> mattk@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (matthew.kaufman) writes:

>>I would like to set up a FW tank with african ciclids, a catfish, and some
>>dither fish.
>If you want the fish to successfully breed, no catfish - it'll eat
>the fry, unless its a wimpy catfish like a corydoras, which should
>be kept in schools and *not* in african cichlid tanks!
>You probably don't need dithers, either, don't believe the myths about
>rainbowfish and suchlike being good dithers - cichlids do fine without
>dithers, once they get use to you and the schedule. Some sort of
>covering on the surface like floating plants is about all that's needed.
                              ===============

What sort of floating plant cover is succesful in a rift lake tank?
I was under the impression that most would just rot away.

It wasn't apparent from the followup that you were refering to riverine ("
soft water") cichlids, or east african rift lake ("liquid rock") cichlids.
If the latter, the original poster should know: ROCKS ROCKS ROCKS!!!  Put 
lots of hiding places in the tank (kind of rules out UGF unless it's lava 
rock).

   Erik Olson
   (maintainer of 60 gallon Tanganyikan tank with 150 lbs of granite,
    coral sand, baking soda/salt concoction, 5 J. marlieri, 2 N. lelupi,
    2 N. savoryi and 2. N. brichardi that haven't killed each other in
    9 months so far!)
---
Erik D. Olson				erik@marge.phys.washington.edu
UW Cosmic Ray Laboratory		     olson@phys.washington.edu

       "This is the spawning of the cage and aquarium" - TMBG
From: frazier@maverick.hrl (Greg Frazier)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Black Ghost
Date: 18 Aug 92 21:53:34 GMT
Article-I.D.: hacgate.22940
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

watts@susie.cs.scarolina.edu (Christopher Watts) writes:
: 
: I just became the owner of a 6" black ghost and I was wondering what is a 
: good food to feed this thing.  I was told that it really likes guppies but
: I can't feed it guppies everyday.  Any suggestions?

This may be off, since what I know has about blk. ghosts has been
gleaned from the net...

B. ghosts are basically blind.  I don't think that they will
eat non-live food, and they aren't thrilled about eating in
the day time.  If small fish cannot be found to feed them, I
would first try earthworms (bait shop).  Other alternatives
are adult brine shrimp and/or tubifex/blood/black worms
(all of which are available at fish stores, but might be
ignored by a b. ghost as too small).  They have surprisingly
large mouths, so if all you can get are feeder goldfish,
all is not lost... :-)

--


Greg Frazier	frazier@CS.UCLA.EDU	!{ucbvax,rutgers}!ucla-cs!frazier
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: fvr@broom.bae.bellcore.com (Frank Ricciardi)
Subject: Re: POWER FILTERS
Organization: Bell Communications Research
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 16:55:22 GMT

	The only pain in the neck about canisters is cleaning them out. In that
respect, outboards are easier.    





In article <1992Aug20.123236.7597@kong.gsfc.nasa.gov>, mstephens.520@postman.gsfc.nasa.gov (mark stephens) writes:
|> After suffering thru maintaining the old dynaflow filters, the one
|> with a 'real' moter at the base, I thought that the Whisper filters
|> were the best thing since sliced bread.  They were self starting!!!
|> Wow, what a concept.  They also are fairly whimpy filtration wise
|> and the water fall effect can be a nuisence.  Then I got an Ehiem canister
|> and have never look at another Whisper/aquaclear again.  The canister
|> allowed me to keep a tank in the living room (and my sig other!).
|> 
|> One problem with the Aquaclear is the sponge, when it gets cloged, tends to 
|> float up and have caused water to get out of the filter.  
|> 
|>          mark
|> 
|> In article <1992Aug19.202218.1@vaxb.acs.unt.edu>, ig30@vaxb.acs.unt.edu writes:
|> > 
|> > I am considering purchasing several power filters and would like to hear your
|> > opinions and experiences with WHISPER power filters and AQUA CLEAR power
|> > filters. I am particularly interested about reliabily, ease of use and
|> > maintainance, regarding these brands. I am also interested in other brands you
|> > feel are superior to the above mentioned.
|> > 
|> > Thanks in advance
|> > 
|> > 
|> > Ruvan
|> > 
|> > IG30@VAXB.ACS.UNT.EDU
|> > 
|> > 

-- 
________________________________________________________________________________
"If you got to it and didn't do it, may you never get to it, and do it again"


Frank V. Ricciardi

fvr@bae.bellcore.com

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Cannister Filters
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 13:47:18 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I finally got a Fluval 403 for a 110-gallon tank, primarily because it allowed
the tank to get close to the wall in the back.

Now I understand that its hard to change the media because the cut-off
valves supplied tend to break with extended use.  So my question is:
How do you change the media if you don't use the cutoff valves if you don't
want water on your floor.  The fish store owner tells me that rather than
use the valves he pulls the tubes right out of the fishtank every time he
wants to change media.  This, however seems inconvenient, particuarly if your
tank back is close to the wall.  Any tips?

Also the fish store owner says he doesn't bother with the spray bar, since
its unsightly.  He simply has the return water jet out of a tube hanging in
the tank.  Does this sound right?  Is it OK to dispense with the spray bar?
Pros and Cons?
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Subject: Re: Fluval Filters
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 16:51:34 GMT

In article <3V0ePB1w164w@saviour.UUCP> sf@saviour.UUCP (Sam howard     ) writes:
>Hi.
> 
>I currently have a 75 gal. with a couple of Oscars and 1/2 dozen
>Tin Foil barbs, and ...well...they're kinda messy eatters...  ;)
>right now, I am running two Wisper 3 power filters, but those darn
>fish are going to run me broke just changing the filter pads!!!
>
>So, I am contemplating a canister filter -- the Fluval 303 (about
>$60US mail order)...any comments about said filter?  is it too big?
>is it too small

Much too small.  Get the 403 and it -may- keep up with the pigs <G>.
I have a 403 on my 55 and like it a lot.  No problems and it is 
quiet.

>
>I was going to replace one of the Wisper 3's with the Fluval, should
>I replace both, or none?

I would keep one running.


>How about other types of canister filters?  Enheim, etc?
>

Eheim is nice (never actually owned one) but are expensive.  This is
an area of contention, but my personal opinion, FWIW, is that fluval
is the best value for the money.  I have a magnum 350 and am not impressed
with it (bought it to clean my reef tank and have never used it after
the first time...).


-- 
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior    Ban anchors, not reef tanks   "With friends like this,   
3rd year medical student		          who needs anemones?"
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine   Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: nclennan@churchst.ccs.itd.umich.edu (Neil F. Clennan)
Subject: Oscars For Sale! (Ann Arbor)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 11:12:42 EDT
Organization: The University of Michigan, Ann Arbor
Distribution: umich

I'm posting this for a friend. If you want some good Oscars and
live in the Ann Arbor area, make the call.
________________________________________________
 for sale to a good home:  one Tiger Oscar, one Red Oscar.  both are
 between 3" and 4" long, not counting the tail.  both healthy.  the
 Tiger is a bit aggressive, but a fine specimen.  why am i selling them?
 i've decided i like ciclids, but not to keep.
 
 if you're interested, call 663-0187, and we can arrange a time when you
 can come over and inspect the fish.  if they're to your liking, make an
 offer on one or both of them.  be prepared to transport them in your
 own bucket.  btw: the best times to call are after 7pm Mon-Fri, or
 between noon and 5pm on weekends.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu (David Russell)
Subject: Re: North American Crayfish - Info please
Organization: Clarkson University
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 21:06:45 GMT

From article <LEE.92Aug11150208@ace.syr.edu>, by lee@ace.syr.edu (Lee C Brink):
> 
>   I'd like some information on the standard crayfish.  I know the following:
> 
> 	1) Very territorial - I've had several killed this way
     Once I had 4 now I have one.... but, the one that is left has
     a very striking pattern, kind of like a diamond back rattlesnake.
> 
> 	2) Will eat anything - I feed them tabimin, but whatever hits the
> 		tank is fair game - Even the sunfish in the tank has taken
> 		some nips from the crayfish
     I had one go for a ride on the back of a 5 in goldfish once.
> 
> 	3) Coldwater - And with that, messy.
    Mine is surviving in a FW setup w/ Temp=78F
> 
>   I'd like to know the following:
> 
> 	1) Life span
   I don't know, but i do have one over a year old.
> 
> 	2) Max size
   Mine is only a few inches
> 
> 	3) Breeding (If possible)
   I have no idea.
> 
> +---------------------------+----------------------------------------------+
> | Lee C Brink	            | Office Support Co-ordinator at NPAC	   |
> | lee@nova.npac.syr.edu     | Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY 13244-4100 |
> |			    | 315-443-1722				   |
> +---------------------------+----------------------------------------------+

   Just down the road.
--
David M. Russell, Mechanical Eng. Dept.
Clarkson University, Potsdam, NY 13676
(315) 268-9806 
russell@sun.soe.clarkson.edu
From: kcwong@ssd.kodak.com (K.C. Wong 253-7926)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] Red Lobster
Keywords: need info
Date: 21 Aug 92 12:58:52 GMT
Article-I.D.: pixel.1992Aug21.125852.24130
Distribution: usa
Organization: Eastman Kodak Co.

In article <1992Aug21.014014.3802@rtsg.mot.com> bttrrch@rtsg.mot.com (Richard J. Bitter) writes:
>In article <1992Aug19.183254.29337@cbfsb.cb.att.com> goo@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (frank.m.macauda) writes:
>>
> .... stuff deleted
>
>4) $9.99 is probably not too bad of a price, the girlfriend got hers for about
>	$9.00
>			Rick
>

Holly cow! $9.99 for a crayfish??? I can imagine $9.99 for an electric
blue crayfish but not a normal crayfish... used to eat these critters by
the bagful down in Cajun country (missed those crayfish boil picnic). In
Lousiana these are pest which live in front of your yard, digging up holes
and piling soil above the hole.

Well, maybe these $9.00 ones are from New Zealand or Australia. They get
BIG down under.

Regards,
K.C. "killi nut in the making" Wong
kcwong@ssd.kodak.com
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: murf@spike.ucar.edu (John Murphy)
Subject: Re: Wet Dry + UG reverse flow debate
Organization: COMET/Univ. Corporation for Atmospheric Research, Boulder  CO
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1992 21:03:02 GMT

In article <shane-220892010742@a-mac.psy.uq.oz.au> shane@psych.psy.uq.oz.au (Shane Brown) writes:
>In article <1992Aug20.220243.24714@ncar.ucar.edu>,
>murf@spike.comet.ucar.edu (John Murphy) wrote:
>> 
>> For the last 2 weeks I have been going from store to store seeking advice
>> for a reef tank that I would like to set up.  I am planning on buying a
>> 75G setup, w/ wet dry filtration.   One of the stores I have been to
>> "highly reccommends" taking the return from the wet/dry and running   
>> it reverseflow up through an undergravel filter.  Another store that
>> I mentioned this idea to said that it was the worst thing you could
>> do.  He said that anerobic bacteria would build up and gradually deplete
>> the oxygen supply in the water.  He also gave several other chemical   
>> reasons for this being a bad idea (he talked like a biologist) that I 
>> didn't understand.  The advocate of the setup said how is bacteria going to  
>> form when the water is moving up not down and it has already been through the
>> wet dry filtration.   Both these guys have 15+ years experience with
>> marine setup, but I have know idea which is correct.   Does anybody
>> out there have any experience with this????? which is best?  wet/dry
>> nothing on the bootom?  wet dry + u/g and coral? wet/dry only and sand?
>> what do I do?????????????????????????
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> John Murphy			murf@comet.ucar.edu
>
>Hey, please correct me if I'm wrong, but anaerobic bacteria is by
>definition bacteria that makes a living out of living without oxygen, so
>how is this stuff supposed to deplete oyxgen ? My guess is that you'll get
>aerobic bacteria for ammonia-nitrite, nitrite-nitrate conversions.
>The question I would ask is if the wet/dry is used to take care of
>oxygenation and biological filtration, isn't the UG overkill ?
>
>(o  ) (o  )      ( o ) ( o )      (  o) (  o)  -------------------~
>...AND KIDS, FEEL FREE TO       Shane's Opinion: Guaranteed to be ~
>   TRY THIS AT HOME !!          worthless or you pay DOUBLE !     ~
>-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ ~_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-~

I thought anerobic bacteria was the bacteria that fed on oxygen not lived 
without it, but I could be wrong also.  If I am sorry, if I'm not then the
anerobic bacteria would compete with the oxygen supply with the fish.  Is
there anybody out there that has experience with a reef tank with coral on the 
bottom vs. nothing vs. sand????

John
--
John Murphy			murf@comet.ucar.edu
UCAR/COMET			(303) 497-8494
PO Box 3000
Boulder CO 80307-3000
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria