HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) pine plants
Date: 16 Nov 92 15:39:51 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc.

In article <1992Nov15.211316.29076@athena.cs.uga.edu> maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu (Joan C. Maxfield) writes:
>Once upon a time my local fish store carried a cute little plant that
>looked just like a little pine tree.  Upon closer inspection I
>thought: "Hey, that looks just like Princess Pine!" Princess Pine,
>sorry I don't know the latin, is a small, vinelike, TERRESTRIAL plant.
>I guess some people don't care about growing plants in their tanks and
>just want some green for a little while.  Go back to that store in a
>few weeks and take a look at that pine plant, if it's the same plant
>that my store tried to sell it will be nasty and brown.  Ugh.  As for
>care of it, well, I'd guess some nice acidic, moderatly moist forest
>floor would do it just fine!  I say save your money for a REAL aquatic
>plant. 
>
>Joan
>
>-- 

Ditto here. I found some at the store and thought they looked neat. My
across the hall office neighbor thought so too and bought 2 bunch'es.

After a week they are brown with no roots, so the the store's. They
look like trimming from a juniper bush!

I wouldn't buy them and I'm glad I'm didn't!
+--------------------------------------+
|Huett Bishop                          |
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|
|Dallas, TX                            |
|                                      |
|Go Cowboys!!                          |
|                                      |
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |
+--------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: denise@pprg.eece.unm.edu (Denise J. Richards)
Subject: Re: Fluorescent lights: equivalent types?
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 21:10:07 GMT
Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque

In article <pflugrat.722010055@xray1.cshl.org> pflugrat@cshl.org (Jim Pflugrath) writes:
>
>Can some knowledgable person summarize which brands and models of
>fluorescent lights are essentially equivalent in spectrum/function/purpose?
>
>For example, is the PennPlax Natur-lux the same as a Vita-Lite?  Both
>claim to be "natural light".  And is the PennPlax aquari-lux the same
>as other so called "plant" lights like Gro-Lux?
>
>Jim


I would like to see the above also, but in addition someone
who knows who knows how the  color the light  will affect
tank appearance.  I had two 18 inch triton bulbs on my 55 gal tank
and was pleased with the appearance and colors in my tank.  
When one blew out, I bought vita-lites by mail order and hate
them, they give the whole tank a green appearance which looks
BAD. YUCK.  I don't know whether to get rid of the bulbs and get
some more tritons or will adding another light strip with a bulb
that emits another color cancel out the green?  I was thinking
of adding more light since I want lots of plants.

Lighting experts please help...

I am not the above, I am the below...
--Marsha
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     boggs@agps.lanl.gov (505) 665-6606
Los Alamos National Laboratory, P.O. Box 1663  MS J488  Los Alamos, NM 87545
From: moss@brl.mil
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Shedding in banded coral shrimp (M)
Date: 16 Nov 92 14:07:30 GMT
Reply-To: moss@brl.mil
Organization: Ballistic Research Laboratory

In article <1992Nov12.142125.44681@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu>, rezac@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
|> I have a coral banded shrimp which is in a 30 gallon reef tank with 2
|> damsels. It had been in a 58.  When it was in the 58 after about a week
|> it shed its  antennae and pincers and spend 3 days growing new ones.  That
|> was a month ago.  Two days ago it shed again (this time in the 30, after
|> having been in the tank for approximately two weeks).  Is this shedding
|> natural or the result of stress?  Is it harmful to the shrimp?  Water
|> quality in both tanks is good.
|> No nitrates, nitrites, or ammonia. pH 8.3 Salinity 1.022.  Any comments?

The shrimp will normally shed it's entire shell as part of the normal growth
process.  If it lost its antennae and pincers, that's not normal unless it
tangled with a tank mate.  Perhaps you saw the discarded shell and thought it
was the real thing, or a crab, mantis shrimp, etc. got a hold of it after it
shed when it was most vulnerable.  Shedding once a month is normal.  I don't
think growing antennae and pincers is possible in 3 days, most likely the
shrimp hid for 3 days which is normal after shedding, and when it appeared
again you thought it had grown new appendages.  I'm fairly certain that when
a shrimp losses a limb, it doesn't appear again until the next molting is
complete.

As far as water quality, shrimp require Iodine for proper shedding, and most
likely Calcium is important for shell formation/growth.  It wouldn't be a
bad idea to add supplements of these if you don't already.

-Gary
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Neons and stuff
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:25:53 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com

I come into work this morning and there is a 75 gallon tank, stand and covers  
sitting in the hallway. Mmmmm, I wonder if the guy who owns the stuff is going  
to set it up in the office or if he is selling it. He isn't around to ask. On  
another note, the wife woke up this morning to a dead Neon in the tank. It  
appears that they are just dying off and not being gobbled up buy the Seabay  
Mono. No explanation for the death. All other fish are doing fine. I have heard  
from people that Neons are tough to keep alive. Maybe I'll wait before adding  
more Neons and try some small Angels now.

--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Induced voltages
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 19:54:05 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <1992Nov20.180841.3042@wam.umd.edu> Jurassic Park as movie writes:
>In article <1992Nov18.175001.7499@cs.ucla.edu> jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu  
>(Jason Rosenberg) writes:
>..
>> probe must be a good conductor, and be non-corrosive.  The only  
>commercially
>> available one I've seen is made of titanium.

What about non metal conductors such as carbon. Graphite is cheap!





-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: [F]African Root in tank causing water discoloration.
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:28:26 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com

Any suggestions on how to clear up the tea color my water has from the African  
Root I put in the tank. I have added more carbon to my second nature filter  
with no luck.

--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria
From: scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Coppersafe opinions.
Date: 20 Nov 92 20:14:16 GMT
Organization: Stratus Computer Inc, Marlboro MA
NNTP-Posting-Host: scottsdale.az.stratus.com


I just poured the recommended dosage of Coppersafe in my tank to cure ick which  
my new Seabay Mono has. I would not usually go for this but a person at the  
fish store suggested it over the triple sulfa pills I had used in the past  
(successfully I might add). Who has opinions on the Coppersafe product? 
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: oleg@netcom.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Subject: Re: Old Aquarium Book
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 05:47:57 GMT

In article <1992Nov16.123058.15965@vax5.cit.cornell.edu> awhj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Fredericks) writes:
>  I'll check Ross Socolof's catalog "Mostly Ichthyology" which has lots of old
>aquarium books like the one you describe.

Can you post some info about that catalogue and where to get it?
-- 
Oleg Kiselev at home			...use the header to find the path
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
Subject: Re: chlorine/amine removers
Summary: What about ACE by Jungle?
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 16:03:12 GMT

In article <BxuEI3.HM6@newsflash.concordia.ca>, rclark@alcor.concordia.ca (Richard Clark) writes:
> In article <1992Nov16.230400.11552@Veritas.COM> joshua@Veritas.COM (Joshua Levy) writes:
> >My bottle of AmQuel ammonia, chloramines, and chlorine remover (by 
> >Kordon) is almost empty.  Is there any reason to buy a different 
> >brand when my current supply runs out?
> 
> Amquel doesn't have phosphates, which is nice.  But, it doesn't remove
> harmful metals like copper (novaqua is recommended for that - but I
> refuse to use it because of the phosphate buffers).  What I would like
> to see is Amquel which also removes metals.  I use Amquel myself, but
> would like to use something else.  I've heard Tetra makes a product
> that does what I want, but I don't know its name.

I have seen the Tetra product myself also (cant remember the name either).
I do remember, however, it seemed to be slightly more expensive than most
other products of this type.  What about ACE (Ammonia Chlorine Eliminator)
by Jungle?  Does anyone prefer one over the other (between Amquel and ACE)?

-- 
Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
School of Electrical Engineering  fundamentals while I'm asking a fundamental
Purdue University                 question....then fine, I'll pretend to be one"
From: awhj@vax5.cit.cornell.edu (Tom Fredericks)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) African cichlid questions
Date: 23 Nov 92 12:40:45 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

In article <1992Nov21.210632.12345@unislc.uucp>,
livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston) writes: 
> One more question:  How much salt should I add to my water for species
> from lakes Tanganikya and Victoria?  Also, I've got my water at about 78
> degrees F.  Is this ok?  Thanks.

  I add one Tablespoon of Epsom salts per ten gallons and one teaspoon of
Seachem's Marine buffer per twenty gallons for Tanganyikan fish.


 - Tom Fredericks
   Ithaca, New York
From: greenleaf@bchm.biochem.duke.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Help! Sick betta!
Date: 16 Nov 92 16:53:55 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Biochem


 Help!

I am not experienced in fish care, but I am an animal lover and I hate to see a
creature suffer.  A friend and former coworker left us a betta when she moved
away.  She is a fish lover and diver and is in graduate school in Maryland.  I
would have asked her directly but she's in Barbados or somewhere on a field
trip.  Rough, eh?  Anyway, she left us this fish, but none of us know anything
about fish care.  We're keeping Fernando in a 2 liter erlenmeyer flask with
some gravel at the bottom.  He was fine that way since this summer, but now he
is very lethargic.  He just stays near the glass and doesn't swim around much. 
I think his appetite is down too.  We feed him fruit flies and freeze dried
blood worms.  I'll tell you what I tried and I ask your opinion as to what I
should do for him.  The water we use is high quality deionized water, which
gets changed fairly often ( I can't say for sure since I'm not the only one
caring for him).  Suffice it to say, when it looks dirty it gets changed.  He
was kept on a desk in our biochemistry laboratory where we all work.  I'll
admit I was surprised when my friend said it was fine to keep him in just a
flask of water.  I was under the impression that a betta needed to be in a tank
with filter and pump etc.  But he had thrived for several months this way, so
who am I to complain?  I have CATS, for God's sake.  What do I know from FISH? 
All I know is that cats EAT fish.  That's not an extensive background, I know.
Anyway, I wondered if he was getting enough oxygen, so I hooked up a piece of
tubing to the house compressed air supply and have been gently bubbling air
through the water.  I also wonder if he could be cold.  So I moved him to a
more interior location in the lab.  He was on a desk near some windows.  I
assume fish do get cold, but how can you tell?  So far the temp of his water
went from 22 deg C to 24 deg C since I've moved him this morning.  The only
other thing I've noticed about him is that he blows big bubbles out his gills
every so often.  I don't know if this is normal.  

Well, that's what I can tell you.  Please e-mail me directly if you have any
sage advice.  I'm worried.  I don't want Fernando to die.

Thanks a lot in advance,

Andrea Skantar
Duke University Dept. of Biochemistry
greenleaf@bchm.biochem.duke.edu
          or
glab@bchm.biochem.duke.edu
From: jeffrey.astrachan@cccbbs.UUCP (Jeffrey Astrachan) 
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: FLOUNDERS
Date: 20 Nov 92 09:50:00 GMT
Distribution: world
Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection BBS - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-8248
Reply-To: jeffrey.astrachan@cccbbs.UUCP (Jeffrey Astrachan) 

Hi everyone.  I feel so badly writing that I only have a 10 gallon tank.
But I do feel I'm making the most of it.  I've been trying lately to
purchase more interesting looking fish.  My latest purchase was two
flounders, each about 2-inches in diameter.  I don't really know if I
need to do anything special with them.  My pH is quite low (about 6.2),
but all of my fish (about 12) seem quite happy.  I did have a really
horrendous ammonia problem about a month ago (over 7 ppm) and lost a
couple of my less-hardy fish.  It seems to have now leveled at about .2
ppm and all is good.  I have live plants (4, don't know names) and an
Aquaclear Mini power filter.  I've got two irredescent sharks, two fancy
zebras, a male betta, a snail, two albino cory cats, and a few others
that I don't know their names (I call them Bob, Lucy, and Harriet).  Any
suggestions on the flounder (even though they appear happy)?  Can you
tell if they are male or female???  They sure look the same to me!!  Oh,
I keep the temp steady at 74.

Any suggestions or thoughts are appreciated....Thanks!

Jeff
                                                                     
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dave@borland.com (Dave Draper)
Subject: Re: Golden Tin Foil Barbs
Originator: dave@genghis.borland.com
Organization: Borland International
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 22:47:20 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.144735.100830@watson.ibm.com> cliff@watson.ibm.com () writes:
>I recently purchased two large "Golden" Tin Foil Barbs.  They look just
>like tin foil barbs, but their backs have a golden hue.  The fish store
>owner says its a different variety, but now I'm wondering if the
>golden color is artificial.... Any tips?  THanks, Cliff

I have never seen a "Golden" variety but I have seen and kept the "Pink"
variety. I don't know if the "Pink" Tinfoil Barbs were a different species
but I do know that the body shape and behavior patterns were the same as
a generic Tinfoil Barb. I don't think the coloration was artificial as I
had 4 of them from the time they were 1.5" until they were around 6".

- Dave

-- 
Dave Draper                         |
Senior Engineer - Debugger & Tools  |     Losers make excuses,
Borland International               |     Winners make it happen!
dave@borland.com                    |
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tnnguyen@kilo.cs.umn.edu (Trung N. Nguyen)
Subject: Re: [F] Driftwood in an aquarium?
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 23:26:32 GMT

Can I just buy the driftwoods sold in pets store or mail-order places and
just drop it in the tank?  Can I assume that these driftwoods already bleach,
soak, clean, boil, etc. to get all the nasty stuff out?  I would like some
of these in my tanks but if I have to boil and soak them for a few months,
I think I can go without them.  Beside if this is the case, I can just pick
up any piece of woods in the park instead of selling out big bucks for them
at the store.
Some of these driftwoods claim to have been cleaned by sand blasting.  Does this
method get rid of the nasty parasites?

				Trung
------------------------------------------------------------------
! Email:                              Phone:                     !
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!                                       (612) 624-7807  (Office) !
------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: brian@picasso.icd.teradyne.com (Brian Hunter)
Subject: Re: Sweaty tanks
Organization: Teradyne, Inc. Boston MA
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 20:00:45 GMT

In article <1e90kcINNkh7@travis.csd.harris.com> marka@SSD.CSD.HARRIS.COM (Mark Ashley) writes:
>I'm planning on a chiller for my tank and by coinci-dink 
>one of the current fish magazines has an article on chillers. 
>It wasn't FAMA. 
>
>Anyway it warns about having a cold tank in a warm room.
>It said that the outside of the tank will start "sweating"
>if the tank is made of thin glass or a less than 3/8-inch thick
>acrylic. Does anybody have this problem ?
>Should I get a thick-walled acrylic tank ?
This would depend on your application, If you are just trying 
to keep a tank down to 80 F then no if this is to be a temporate
tank and you want to keep it at 55 then perhaps.
>
>It also suggests putting the chiller outside the cabinet.
>If my cabinet has fans for ventilation, would it be ok
>to put it in the cabinet then ? Chillers are not exactly
>works of art that I want exposed. 8-)
This depends on the chiller, Some have there own fans and if you cut
an opening in your cabinet so the chiller can get to the outside
air i would be ok.  They do put out a lot of heat.
>
>I'm planning to put the chiller like so: from the sump pump,
>to an Ocean Clear canister (chemical) to the chiller and
>the return hose to the main tank. There should be no 
>problem with this setup, right ? I'm also running out
>of horizontal space so I'll set these up vertically.
>e.g. the sump is below the main tank, the pump protrudes
>from the side, above that is the canister and above that
>is the chiller. Any problems with this ?
You must have a very tall cabinet.  I would run the chiller back to
the sump to gentle the effect on the tank.  The baytech chiller
uses a probe which you just put in the sump, no plumbing.

>
>Should I put foam on the sides of the tank for insulation ?
>How much power does a 1/4, 1/5, 1/6 HP chiller suck up ?
>Should I expect a big jump on my power bill ? Are these
1/4 will eat some amount of amps ~400 wts I would guess.
Your bill will depend on how often it runs.

Brian


Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: darrenq@linac.fnal.gov (Darren Qunell x3530)
Subject: HELP! Oscar has Hole-in-the-Head
Organization: Fermilab, Batavia, IL
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 18:34:57 GMT

I would appreciate any advice about treating an Oscar in the early
stages of hole-in-the-head.  I currently have a 7" Oscar in a 55
gallon tank.  The tank has UGF with a Whisper(4?) power filter.  His
tankmates include a 5" Tinfoil Barb, a trio of 4" Bala Sharks, and a
medium sized Pleco (4").   There are no live plants.  I run 15% water
changes every weekend.  Ammonia and Nitrite levels are typically near
zero, however Nitrate levels are around 60 ppm.  pH is slightly high
at about 7.6, although I've not tried to change it.

I am interested to know the typical causes of this disease as well as
effective treatments.  I believe there is a treatment called something
like "Paragon II" which claims to be effective against
hole-in-the-head, while not harming my barb or balas.  Has anyone used
this product?  Did it stop the disease?  Did the 'hole' heal
completely?  I have also heard that as a last resort one might try
tincture Iodine applied directly to the 'hole' while the fish is out
of the water.  Any comments here?  This seems hazardous to me.

Right now, the hole is about 3mm in diameter.  I had a former large
Oscar which died of the disease.  I tried numerous cures suggested by
pet stores to no avail.  They did not include Paragon II or tincture
Iodine.  Is there hope for the fishy?

I did find one reference in a pet store book on diseases. It
mentioned one of the active ingredients in Paragon II as a
treatment for Hexamita/Hole-in-the-Head.  It was a bit cryptic, and
offered no other explanation.

Please E-mail any responses to 'darrenq@adcalc.fnal.gov'.  Thank You.

Darren Qunell
darrenq@adcalc.fnal.gov
From: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org (Huett Bishop)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: sci.aquaria
Date: 23 Nov 92 17:14:04 GMT
Organization: Tandem Telecommunications Systems Inc. Plano, Tx.


I am trying to convert my non-instant on flouresant light fixture to instant-on.
Has anyone does this? I talked to the people at Home Depot and got nothing but
confusion!!

I have a Oceanic Single blub fixture which has a ballast system which is in line
with the power cord, will I need a new ballast or do I just need to add the starters
to the fixture?

If someone could email me the instructions for this conversion I would appreciate it.

(I asked for email since I'll be gone for a week or so and the answers will be
deleted by my server)


Thanks


+--------------------------------------+
|Huett Bishop                          |
| Tandem Telecommuncations Systems Inc.|
|Dallas, TX                            |
|                                      |
|Go Cowboys!!                          |
|                                      |
|email: hbishop@ttsi.lonestar.org      |
+--------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: ffujita@s.psych.uiuc.edu (Frank Fujita)
Subject: RFUGF -- too much?
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 06:28:18 GMT

I have a 29 gal aquarium.  In it I have a Aquaclear 802 powerhead
powering a RFUGF.  I've sloped the gravel (Black Beauty -- much bigger
than sand, much littler than 'normal' colored gravel -- a 'natural'
black substrate) so that most of the gravel is right above the lift
tube, with a moving out to almost none (just enough to cover the plate)
at the far end of the tank.  I use a few pieces of red slate to help the
gravel rise at a steeper slope in a few places.

What I'm noticing is that at my lift tube corner (where the gravel is
about seven inches deep), the gravel is sifting/shifting/moving.  That
is (I'm guessing but this is what it looks like) the gravel near the
bottom of the corner rises with the water pressure, and then falls back
to the plate as new gravel at the plate rises to the top.  

Is this good/bad/irrelavent?  The biological filtration would seem to
have no problem adapting to this situation -- however, I'm afraid that
one of my fish might fall into the 'quicksand', and be injured/killed.

I've put the flow control knob at the 'low' setting, and this doesn't
seem to stop the situation, though it reduces the speed of the activity.

Comments?

Frank Fujita
From: pflugrat@cshl.org (Jim Pflugrath)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Fluorescent lights: equivalent types?
Date: 17 Nov 92 14:20:55 GMT
Organization: Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory


Can some knowledgable person summarize which brands and models of
fluorescent lights are essentially equivalent in spectrum/function/purpose?

For example, is the PennPlax Natur-lux the same as a Vita-Lite?  Both
claim to be "natural light".  And is the PennPlax aquari-lux the same
as other so called "plant" lights like Gro-Lux?

Jim