HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: xh2v@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU (Xiaojun  Huang)
Subject: Re: Civic SI clutch chatter
Keywords: Civic
Organization: University of Virginia
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 01:47:36 GMT


My 84 civic was working smoothly until yesterday morning.

It had been very cold(about 40 at night) and raining for a couple of days
Yesterday when I started my car I found that it started to give out blue
smoke, a lot of smoke. then I checked up the engine oil and found almost
drained.

I was told that it might be due to the worn out of a rubber piece inside
the cylinder which seperates the oil from the combustion chamber(Gasket).
Does anyone know what are the most probable causes of that?
Are there any simple ways to tell(I mean without going to the mechanics)?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

-Trent

Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: michaet@hubcap.clemson.edu (michael dale townsend)
Subject: Re: Whats a Geo Metro (explained)
Organization: Clemson University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 17:59:06 GMT

james@koko.csustan.edu (Jonas Grumpy) writes:

>This summer I saw an accident where a late model Metro was rear ended by
>a late model Camry or taurus. The sedan had light damage to the bumber and
>no visible deformation to the hood or fenders. The metros' rear bumber was
>where the backs of the front seats was. I just hope there was no one in the
>back seats. Have any of you noticed that this car has no crumple zone?
>-- 
>C MYSIG  ASIG4U 1RADSIG 2BADSIG SIG U 2     U R SIG   1SIGDOG    ADOTSIG

>Vanity .sigs, now only $35     

What about Geo Metro vs.  1970 Olds 98?
Michael
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Mercury Capri opinions? Convertables Abound
From: derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 23:18:24 GMT
Organization: Fujitsu New Zealand

In article <147520018@hplsla.hp.com> thatchh@hplsla.hp.com (Thatch Harvey) writes:
>       The report I read said that if the Miata hadn't come along to be
>a high water mark, that the Capri would be a decent car.  

But it did,  not only that it came along _before_ the Capri.  One could
argue that because the Capri came along the Miata was made to appear _better_.

Anyway if you want a rear drive live rear axle small open top roadster in 
the mold of the great British sportscar... Wait a short while.  There is 
a limited edition _new_ MGB roadster in the pipeline.  British motor
industry heritage bodyshell,  all new suspension package, 90's nose job,
multi valve V8 engine, style...

They are also talking of a couple of new designs from MG.  After all, now
the convertable has come out of the doldrums of the 80's and is becoming 
popular again who better...  (Jensen Car Company! - little chance of that 
now though :-( )

They are also talking of re-releasing the MG midget with the latest version 
of the 'A' series engine (Turbo charged? heady stuff indeed! ).

Looks like a good decade for those of us who like the wind in their hair.
Just saw a new Honda CRX - cute, really cute!  Might give one a test drive...


-- 
Derek Tearne. -- derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz --  Fujitsu/ICL New Zealand -- 
Some of the more aware dinosaurs were worried about the environmental
consequences of an accident with the new Iridium enriched fusion reactor.  
"If it goes off only the cockroaches and mammals will survive..." they said.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: Why not a Taurus SHO Wagon??
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 92 19:00:38 GMT

In article <1asf6lINNgq7@seven-up.East.Sun.COM> jfox@hooksett.East.Sun.COM writes:
>In article 110118WJT101@psuvm.psu.edu, <WJT101@psuvm.psu.edu> () writes:
>> Hello,
>> I was wondering why Ford hasn't offered the SHO engine on the Taurus
>>  Wagon.  Especially now that the Taurus SHO is available with an automatic
>>  transmission, I would think many "30-something"  wagon buyers would be
>>  interested in this type of setup.  Is there some engineering reason why the
>>  SHO powertrain can't be placed in the wagon??
>> 
>> 
>> --RICK
>
>I remember a thread kicking around dec's carbuffs notesfile in reference
>to an SHO wagon. I think it turned out to be a Ford exec who had it built...
>
>My feeling on it is that it would hurt the overall SHO image. For the same
>reasons you don't take the Mustang 5.0 platform and make a wagon out of it,
>or put the M5 motor in the 5 series wagon, you don't want to spread the
>SHO name in cars whose purposes generally stray from the hi-po sedan
>market.
>
don't know about hurting the SHOs image or not, but I wish the SHO 
would have been available when I bought my Taurus wagon - and,
yes, I'm in the 30-something... group, but my car is the wagon that
came with everything, 3.8 engine, all black and in the process of
being made to look _go-o-o-d_, e.g., front roof rack is off (back
one almost reminds you of a spoiler) - the grey on the bottom's
going next - it'll be black, then tinting on all the windows that
can be tinted (legally in CA), there's a lowering kit to lower it 
a bit in front for better handling on curves & turns - and, if
you've ever seen Thom Taylors black Chevy wagon, I'll have the Taurus
equivalent.....then let any one say that the wagon takes away
from the SHOs status, etc.....B-)

-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
	  
Xref: sparky rec.autos:22953 ne.forsale:4328
From: abyazi@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (farhad.abyazi)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,ne.forsale
Subject: 1989 Acura Integra-RS FOR SALE
Keywords: For Sale
Date: 29 Sep 92 19:10:46 GMT
Followup-To: abyazi@cbnewsl.att.com
Distribution: ne
Organization: AT&T



	1989 Integra RS with 65,200 miles
	Sky blue metallic
	5-speed  2-dr 
	Blaupunkt  AM/FM/Cassette with Amp.	
	
	$6800 or BRO. For immediate sale, due to financial problems.

	Please call Fred at (508) 960-4066.
From: pnelson@cobra.Tymnet.COM (Phil Nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Are Saturns really "rattletraps"?
Summary: really?
Date: 28 Sep 92 20:58:09 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: BT North America (Tymnet)

In article <1992Sep28.152228.29947@hubcap.clemson.edu> jlysagh@hubcap.clemson.edu (james joseph lysaght) writes:

>As an engineer let me tell you, time does not directly correlate to
>quality.  You can spend 20 years designing a car and it still be lousy if

In my experience there is a direct correlation between time and quality.
Sometimes it's not very good, but it is definitely a direct correlation.

>your design team sucks or if you have the most innovative, creative,
>skilled design team it is possible to design a good product in much less
>then average time.

I can't remember a rush project that didn't miss something important.

Usually several somethings.

But I never went to engineer school, maybe I'm not qualified to have an
opinion. Do they teach statistics in engineer school? All I know about
statistics is what I picked up here and there. Maybe I didn't understand
what you meant by "direct correlation".



-- 
Phil Nelson . pnelson@tymix.Tymnet.COM . San Jose, CA, USA . 408-922-7508

  The lamp of the LORD searches the spirit of a man;
		it searches out his inmost being.	   Proverbs 20:27
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
From: johns@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Stephen Johns)
Date: 30 Sep 92 13:27:08 GMT
 <stuart.717817096@yacht> <1992Sep30.063518.28782@leland.Stanford.EDU>
Organization: Southwest Research Institute, San Antonio

In article <1992Sep30.063518.28782@leland.Stanford.EDU> tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen) writes:

[STUFF DELETED]

>the daytona IROC R/T appears to fit your definition.
>0-60 in six flat, ET of 14.7 sec.  dunno about slalom.
>this is from car and driver, which drives the cars more
>conservatively than say, hot rod.
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
   Maybe than Hot Rod, but much more aggressively than either MT or R&T.
   C&D's 0-60 time is 1 second faster for my car, Supra Turbo, than MT lists.
   6.2 vs 7.1 ( OK .9 ).  My personal best, timed using a friend with a
   stop watch, is 6.8.  Need to go try it again with the new tires!
-- 
Stephen Johns, Research Analyst
Southwest Research Institute, SA, TX 78228 (512) 522-5751
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: pacyga@rtsg.mot.com (Jim Pacyga)
Subject: Re: Probe / Mercury Capri / Ford Capri - Which?
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 15:21:10 GMT

In article <1992Oct1.140507.19527@hasler.ascom.ch> kevinh@hslrswi.hasler.ascom.ch writes:
>
>In article <1992Oct1.103509.1@sdl.mdcbbs.com>, richardk@sdl.mdcbbs.com writes:
>|> Greetings car enthusiasts!
>|> 
>|> There I was, reading my car magazine last night, and it mentioned the release
>|> of the new Ford Capri in late '93. I have been following this news-group for a
>|> couple of weeks now and have seen various messages about a Mercury Capri. Is
>|> this the same car? And if it is, why are we over in the UK told that in the
>|> US it is on sale as a Probe?
>
>No, it's not the same car. The new Probe is basically a Mazda MX6. A roadtest
>was done in last months issue of CAR magazine who said, basically, that it was
>a very nice car (a Ford?) There was also "speculation" that it would be re-badged to
>become the new Capri. I doubt this very much, the damage done to Fords
>reputation, if they re-incarnated that name, would be immeasurable :-).
>
>kevinh@hasler.ascom.ch
>

This is partially correct.  The Probe is essentially a combined effort on the
part of Ford and Mazda (in which Ford owns a big chunk of stock).  There is
also a Mercury Capri (which is a Ford, since Mercury is just division).  The
Capri is available only as a convertible.  

--------------------+-------------------------------+
Jim Pacyga          | Motorola, Inc.                |
(708) 632-6903      | 1501 W. Shure Dr., IL-27-N258 |
pacyga@rtsg.mot.com | Arlington Heights,  IL  60004 |
From: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: PC's vs. Mac's... was: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Date: 2 Oct 92 15:30:11 GMT
Reply-To: bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ronald Bense)
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.autos, rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau) writes:

One of the best analogies I've seen, which hits aobut every single point
I've heard about concisely.

>Driving a FWD is like using a Mac: It is great for those who just want
>to get the job done without having to know a thing about the hardware
>and you don't care about performance.

>Driving a RWD is like using a PC: Much more powerful, but it requires
>the user to have some knowledge and expertice.

>Driving an AWD is like using a UNIX workstation and X windows: simply
>the ultimate!

It also remonds me of the race up a mountain in Co that I saw on TV
several years ago. It had well-known race drivers (the one I remember
is Bobby Unser) racing cars up this steep dirt track. THe reason I remember
this is because it was the first year that an Audi Quattro was raced
by Bobby Unser. He beat the competition flat-out, including his own
time in a RWD car. (There were no FWD, enough said?) By the way, since
I drive an AWD now, and have driven RWD and FWD, all in snow, FWD is
better in snow for complete morons who want to take off in it the same
way they drive on dry pavement. RWD is fine, and with a little knowledge/
preperation (such as adding a 50# bag of sand in the rear) they will
drive as well as any FWD. Of course, AWD blows them all out of the water,
including 4WD. (THere is a difference between them.)

Ron                          Think about this one (seen on a bumper sticker):
			     The road to hell is bumper-to-bumper
			     Make a U-turn to God.
The irony is priceless.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
Subject: Re: ALFA ALFASUD?
Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 18:17:34 GMT

In article <1992Sep29.214316.10247@uoft02.utoledo.edu> stx7175@uoft02.utoledo.edu writes:

>	Is anybody knows whether ALFA is still producing ALFASUD?
>	Just curious.

not under that name; but they still make an FWD with a boxer motor
in it, which is basically the same concept.

richard
-- 
richard welty                            518-393-7228
welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
  ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
    -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: anthony@lpi.liant.com (Anthony Beissner)
Subject: Re: Cold Idling Problem Due to Damp Weather
Keywords: Cold Idling, Damp Weather
Organization: Liant Software Corp.,  Austin TX
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1992 18:55:40 GMT

In article <1992Sep27.171520.14620@allegra.att.com> mbs@allegra.att.com (Mani B. Srivastava) writes:
>Since moving to damp, humid New Jersey from sunny San Francisco
>Bay Area, my 1984 Nissan Sentra (45K miles, AT) has developed
>a weird problem that I have been unable to get fixed after
>two visits to the mechanic. I was looking for any pointers as
>to what the problem could be.
>
>One day after I drove in the rain it developed the problem that
>it would not idle when cold - I have to keep press the gas pedal
>pressed until it warmed up ... otherwise the engine would run very 
>rough or just die. Parking the car for more than a couple of hours
>means going through this process all over again. The problem seems
>to be particularly bad on damp and humid days. The first visit to
>mechanic proved fruitless - they couldn't re-create the problem and
>the car ran fine for the next 3-4 sunny days. Then another rainy day
>- and the problem reappeared. This time I took it to a different 
>mechanic who also could not consistently re-create the problem, but
>found some carbon/corrosion in the distributor rotor. Replacing
>the distributor cap and the fuel filter seemed to fix the
>problem, and the car ran fine for 3 weeks in all sort of weather.
>Then 2-3 days back after another drive in misty/rainy weather the
>cold idling problem just reappeared.
>
>I would appreciate any pointers as to what could be causing the
>problem. I am particuarly stumped by the fact that the rainy/damp
>triggers the problem. In case it matters, I have recently been
>using the car much more intensively than I used to (< 2K mile/yr for
>the past 2 years in CA to about 800 mile/month for the past 2 months
>in NJ). I never had the cold-idling problem before, although I did
>need to warm-up the engine in cold weather to prevent stalling.
>
>Thanks for any tips,
>
>Mani
>
>===========================================================
>post : AT&T Bell Laboratories
>       600 Mountain Avenue, Murray Hill, NJ 07974-0636
>email: mbs@research.att.com
>phone: (908)-582-7766 (W)        (201)-301-2093 (H)
>===========================================================

Here's my WAG.  How long since the spark plug wires were replaced?  Moisture
could increase the leakage from old wires and cause problems.  On dry days, or
after the engine is warm and moisture has evaporated, the problem would go
away.

Good luck.
-- 
===============================================================================
Just say no to .signature files.        |             anthony@rmc.liant.com
===============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: pem@mahogany25.cray.com (Paul Martin)
Subject: Re: Wanna be disgusted?
Originator: pem@mahogany25
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 2 Oct 92 11:22:49 CDT


In article <1992Sep28.123020.28685@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, seymour@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Seymour) writes:
> Hello Networld.  Here is some trully agravating info 4 U. 
> 
> Those of us in Canada have been getting reamed with taxes lately- especially if you reside in Ontario.  Starting October 1st Ontario is not going to believe you when you try to get a second hand car registered - with respect to the purchase price.  On thi> s date new legislation goes into affect whereby the tax paid on licencing will be computed on the sales agreement price or a value in some bullshit book -which ever is more.  I'm serious.
> 
> I think thats enough for me. Time to start looking into that transfer to the U.S..
> 
> bitch bitch bitch
  
  Don't move to Minnesota then. That's the way the "sales tax" when you register your newly 
purchased used car, has been calculated for years here. Presumably this is to stop friends,
relatives etc from selling you a $10,000 car and writing out a recipt for $1000, so you would 
only have to pay sales tax on the $1000. The state then gets what it considers its due. 
  I don't object to that way of implementing their sales tax, eventhough I was hit by it a 
couple years ago when I bought an elderly Honda Accord for $1200 and had to pay sales tax 
based on a book value of about 2500, and I really did pay only $1200 to a person who was 
not a freiend or anyone I have seen since then. 
  However what I do question is whether they should even be putting a sales tax on used
vehicles at all!
  My two pesetas worth. 
Paul Martin
From: hacker@cco.caltech.edu (Jonathan Bruce Hacker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: taking fuses out
Date: 1 Oct 92 21:11:27 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu

jailbird@next03wor.wam.umd.edu (serial killer) writes:



>Hey guys anybody ever take a fuse out to protect someone from stealing  
>your car.  I was thniking if there's a fuel pump fuse I can take it out 
>when I get out of my car and then put it back when I want to drive.
>I figure if anyone steals the car they wont get very far since the only  
>fuel they'll be able to use is in the fuel line.  It seems that this is  
>the cheapest way to do it without installing an alarm.
>Any suggestions?

My concern would be that the fuse recepatcles are not designed to
have the fuse removed and inserted thousands of time, which is
what you are proposing in this scheme.  I would expect that after
a few months of this the fuse holder would become worn enough that
you start getting problems.  

Also, its pretty inconvenient to get at on a lot of cars.

-- 
Jon Hacker
Caltech, Pasadena CA
hacker@tumbler-ridge.caltech.edu
From: genet@hplsla.hp.com (Gene Taylor)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 21:59:54 GMT
Subject: Re: About my clutch?
Organization: HP Lake Stevens, WA
Newsgroups: rec.autos

>I'm worried about the clutch in my 1983 Nissan Sentra.
>The pedal pushes easily to the floor. It's hard to get it into reverse.
>And now I seem to be having a loss in power. It just doesn't have
>the pick-up it had several months ago.I push on the gas, the engine
>roars like it's supposed to, but the car doesn't move like it is supposed
>to. It's almost as if I'm driving on ice. 
>Is this my clutch? Do I need a fly-wheel adjustment?
>How much should this cost?
>Thank you much.
>
>Joe

The pedal pushing easily to the floor is not an indication of worn
clutch unless it is much easier than it should be ("easily" is a
relative thing).  

It does sound like your clutch is slipping and replacing it is the
standard way to fix it.  I just replaced one in my `86 Stanza 4WD
station wagon.  I got several estimates; all around $600; priced 
the parts at the local auto parts store (<$100) and decided to do
it myself.  Big mistake.  I got it done but spent much more than
$100 on parts (had to use Nissan parts when after-market parts
wouldn't fit) and would have been way ahead on labor costs if I 
had spent the same amount of time working a minimum wage job and
paid Nissan to do it.  I recommend letting Nissan do it.

Your cost should be less than $600; mine was complicated by the
transfer case that makes the 4-wheel drive work.  You should plan
to change the clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing.  Also,
the flywheel should be turned (similar to process used on brake
drums and rotors).  If the bell housing (which surrounds the clutch
assembly) is oily on the inside, the problem is a worn main seal
which lets engine oil leak into the clutch area and makes it slip.
In that case, I'd still recommend doing everything I've discussed
already, plus changing the seal.  I've had two cars with clutch
problems caused by a leaking main seal.  You may want to have this
done even if it isn't leaking; they DO wear out eventually.  It'd
be sad to have it go bad soon after installing new clutch pars.

-Gene
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: gerber@solbourne.com (Andrew Gerber)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket sunroofs - are they any good?
Organization: ParcPlace Boulder
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 20:57:00 GMT

In article <1992Oct6.200330.17647@unislc.uucp> bay@unislc.uucp (Bethanne Yukman) writes:
> One other really nice thing about the American sunroof that you are
> looking at is the fact that it automatically closes when you
> turn the car off.  So you don't inadvertently leave the roof open
> to theives.

This is a good feature?  I guess so, but here in Colorado I often
leave my sunroof open when in the garage, when in the supermarket,
when parked at relativly "safe" places.  Can you turn this feaure off?

I guess a lot has to do with the car - the only car I have with a
sunroof is my '83 Nissan Stanza; it's beat up enough that I really
don't worry about people stealing it.  I suppose if my 240SX had a
sunroof I might not leave it open so much.

-- 
/-----------------------------------------------------------------/
/ Andy Gerber		     / gerber@solbourne.com [for a while] /
/ ParcPlace Boulder, formerly Solbourne Software Business Unit    /
/-----------------------------------------------------------------/
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 20:20:18 GMT

In article 1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu, kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu () writes:
>Anyone have any comments/arguments on whether Front Wheel Drive (FWD) or
>Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) is better for handling?  Obviously this is a very broad
>subject but I have a friend that says FWD is best and I do not agree.  Anyone
>have some proof of either?

   This is a subjective can of worms you're opening up. I personally prefer
rear wheel drive because the weight of the car is more balanced between
the front and rear of the car. When road adhesion decreases and you want to slow
down, with RWD all you have to do is threshold brake (in heavy rain or snow.)
   It's trickier with FWD. Since the center of gravity is concentrated more
to the front of the car, and if the road gets slick, the rear of the car
has a greater tendency to lose grip on the road and the car will swap ends,
that is, spin out.
   Another typical FWD problem is the tendency to have torque steer with
higher horsepower engines (>180 roughly), and since the weight of the car
is more concentrated to the front, you get understeer or front end plow
around corners and in curves.
   Try driving two cars of roughly equal weight (like a 4cyl Mustang and
a normally aspirated Probe), and drive them hard on twisty roads you know
well. Make a few panic stops and accelerate on the curves. I let you come
to your own conclusions.

Andy.

Newsgroups: rec.autos