HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 3 Jan 93 20:09:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> The idea was supposed to lower pollution.  It sounds to me like a
-> ploy that results in 5 to 25% more gasoline burned per mile.

 Yep.  And lots of MTBE advocates still claim there's no drop in
mileage, or even that they get better mileage.  Meanwhile, many of us
have cars that won't even *run* on the stuff, much less get reasonable
mileage.

 With the varying mixtures of low-grade fermented dinosaur droppings,
MTBE, alcohol, and camel urine currently sold as "gasoline", fuel
economy and driveability vary widely.

 By the way, the requirements for gasoline used for NHTSA fuel economy
tests and EPA smog tests are throughly specified, and it's nothing like
what you can buy at the pump in 1993.
                    
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bill@uluru.tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Subject: Re: Ford Tempo (Heater Problem)
Reply-To: norcott_bill@tandem.com (Bill Norcott)
Organization: Tandem Computers, Inc.
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 22:19:59 GMT

In article <1ijtv6INN443@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, an078@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Carter E. Bing) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> 	Greetings,
|> 
|> 	I have a 85 Ford Tempo and the heater is dead. The car has a new
|> engine and the heater core is new. I took it to a local Ford dealer in
|> my area and seem to think that the problem is with the engine head not
|> allowing to the water to circulate to the the heater core. For a mere
|> 1000 K they can put a new head on my engine and they think that will
|> solve the problem. 
|> 
|> 	After talking with a friend or two they seem to think, like I
|> do, that the dealer is trying to stick one in me. Their reasoning is
|> that if the water wasn`t circulating through my engine then the car
|> would run hot which is far from the case. I was wondering if anyone on
|> the net has run into a similar problem and if they could recommend a
|> solution.
|> 
|> 

It sounds to me like your thermostat is stuck open.  This prevents
your coolant (which goes through the heater core) from heating up.
This would also account for the fact that your engine is not running
hot.  This is a $10 part that takes maybe 1/2 hour to replace.

I am curious as to why you have a new heater core, did you replace it
to try and fix the problem?  When you turn on the fan, is it merely
weak heat or no heat whatsoever, even with the engine warmed up?

If it is no heat, you also want to check that the door on the heater
duct is not stuck shut, which would prevent the hot air from mixing
with the cold.  Is the problem the same with all heater positions
including defroster?  	If you open the glovebox you can remove a 
cover and get at the heater core.  Verify that it feels warm when the
engine heats up.  Does any air come out the vents with the fan on?

In no case would I go for a new head, not to mention the fact that $1000
is a ridiculous price for one.  If they haven't already replaced the
thermostat then it is an obvious ripoff, since that is the most obvious
thing to check for.  And even if they were guessing, as I am, rule #1
is always eliminate the cheap stuff first.

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------|
Bill Norcott			GUARDIAN POSIX project
Tandem Computers, Inc.		
10600 N. Tantau Avenue		PHONE:  (408) 285-3253
Cupertino, CA   95014		EMAIL: norcott_bill@tandem.com
From: murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Volvo Diesel Engine rebuilding help needed
Date: 6 Jan 93 15:30:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C0Fv3B.A0L.2
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

Friend of mine has a Volvo 740 GLE, 6 cyl turbo-diesel (made by 
VW and I think used in the VW bus) with 150,000 miles on it 
that is acting bad.  He noticed some problems and took it to 
the dealer, who said that it needed to be rebuilt.  
The price tag: $6000.  (He drove it for 10 miles with the oil
light on so I am sure it needs a rebuild.)  

I told him that he could get the engine rebuilt/replaced for
less but when I called the engine rebuilders locally (in 
Pittsburgh) but none of them had this engine.  I am trying 
to see if he can get it done for less than $3000.

I need some help.  Can you recommend someplace where can I get a 
good used Volvo diesel engine.  My friend is located in Westchester
county New York, so someplace in the Bronx would be ideal, but he
is willing to pay for shipping.

Else can you give me the name of a rebuilder who can rebuild/swap
this engine for less.  (preferably in the NY area)

If it is not possible to get a good used/rebuilt engine is it possible
to swap in some other diesel engine.  I keep hearing about the
Cummins engines.  Can they be swapped in?  The car has an automatic
transmission, and is RWD.  If he can get a good American engine
and transmission in there he is willing to spend more money.

I assume that putting in a gasoline engine is a bear.  Am I right.
If he can locate a gasoline engine what else does he need to swap
in? 

Thanks for your help.

Regards,
Sesh Murthy
PS: The car is in the IBM parking lot and can stay there for a few
weeks if necessary.  

Is there a Volvo mailing list  where he can ask this question?

The car is in wonderful shape otherwise.  The automatic transmission was 
rebuilt 3 years back at 90,000 miles.
From: edh@wheeler.unr.edu (Ed Hackett)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AutoNotes #7
Date: 12 Jan 93 21:33:19 GMT
Reply-To: edh@wheeler.unr.edu (Ed Hackett)
Organization: Desert Research Institute, University of Nevada

In article <4554.88.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us> dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:

> Lucas' new ABS system is supposed to be lighter, smaller, and cheaper
>than contemporary units, and will incorporate a "gee, why didn't *I*
>think of that?" feature - a built-in hill-older for manual transmission
>cars.  It's about time!
        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I think that it's about time _again_ would be more appropriate.
Studebaker introduced an optional hill holder clutch in their 1947
models.  I had a 1950 model (bullet nose) that had this feature.
It worked like a charm.  Push in the clutch and the brake,
set the hill holder and take  your foot off the brake.  As long as you
held the clutch down, the brake would stay set.  The brake released
as you let the clutch out.

This car also had anti-lock brakes (they were not big enough to
lock the wheels) and traction control (not enough power to spin the
wheels, even in snow).  It would seat 6 six foot tall cowboys,
wearing their hats, and got 27 mpg.

It always amazes me how that now it takes a $1000-$2000 dollar
computer based system to do what was done 46 years ago with a simple
mechanical linkage and a ball type check valve in the master
cylinder.

 Ed Hackett   edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu     The Desert Research Institute 
 DoD #0200  WMTC  BMWRA  DIOC             Reno, Nevada   (702) 673-7380   
 KotLS  KotLE  DotD #0003      Motorcycling is not a life and death matter.
 900SS  K100RS  501 CAMEL      It's more important than that.    __=o&o>__
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: Steering wheel angle
Organization: The Ohio State University
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:40:31 GMT


>
>: Anyone out there know if it is possible to have the steering wheel angle
>: changed without an alignment??  The car still tracks perfectly; it doesn't
>: pull off to the side.
>

Absolutely!   The column that holds the wheel, has splines on it.  My dad's
Taurus came from the factory with an off-center wheel.  So when he took it
to get alined after 70k, he had the place pull it off and re-center it.
Its fine now.

-steve
-- 
"If I wanted your criticism....it was in my former life."
Steven J Orlin                   /\  /\  /\  /\  /\  /\
sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu/  \/  \/  \/  \/  \/  \
From: maessm@rs6303.ecs.rpi.edu (Mathieu J. Maessen)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Plymouth Acclaim `91, how to fix lighter?
Keywords: Plymouth, Acclaim, 1991, fuse, lighter, how_to, fix
Date: 10 Jan 93 18:24:26 GMT
Article-I.D.: rpi.z5_36v_
Reply-To: maessm@rpi.edu
Distribution: usa
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.

In article <1993Jan7.233438.19482@compunet.uucp>, tony@compunet.uucp (tony) writes:
|>   cigarette lighter.  One day I had an appliance plugged in and when I
|>   unplugged  it I saw sparks and after that the lighter no longer worked.  Also, the
|>   dashboard lights and the turn signal light quit working at the same time.
|>   Is it likely this is easy to fix?  If it is just a matter of a single fuse
|>   which one would it be?  If it may be more than a single fuse, what else

It will probably be only one fuse.  On my car, the fuse for the cigarette 
lighterwas also the fuse for the horn, the dome light, and the air conditioning 
compressor clutch.  before you replace the fuse you might want to check the 
cigarette lighter for a short circuit, since you saw sparks coming from it.
-- 
Mat Maessen   N2NJZ		| maessm@rpi.edu
------------------------------- |-----------------------------------
The opinions expressed in this message definitely do NOT reflect the
views of RPI, Roland Schmitt, or BAPP
--------------------------------------------------------------------
(c) 1992 Fake-sig Co., Inc.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jimd@fraser.sfu.ca (Jim Davies)
Subject: Re: sugar in gas?
Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1993 04:26:29 GMT

louislam@iastate.edu (Louis C Lam) writes:

>>Indeed, if granulated (table) sugar is used, it will simply clog the
>>line and filter.  Sugar does not dissolve in gas very well.  Powdered
>>sugar might be capable of damaging an auto engine if someone was evil
>>enough to try it.  Things that make the fuel burn much too hot such as
>>napthalene moth balls dissolve readily...

>One of my friends told me that his friend's Corrado was damaged in this way.
>Someone poured some sugar and salt (!!) into the fuel tank... The mechanic
>said he found a lot of impurities in the cylinders, and the engine was 
>completely damaged.

Sugar in the gas has to be one of the greatest urban legends of all time
ranking up there with the dead-guy-in-the-Corvette-that-had-to-be-sold-for-e
$100.00-because-of-the-odor story. I remember seeing one of Champion sparkplugs
technical leaflets a few years ago that tested this UL. Sadly, I dont have access to it now, but the article stated that increasing the sugar in the gastank to
about 20 pounds had no affect whatsoever on the engine, which ran OK even after
sugar was puored into it. On the other hand, a relatively small amount of
Champion spark plug cleaning grit, introduced into the carb, has immediate,
and lasting effects ;-)
JD

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Subject: Re: Won't start when wet. (jeepster)
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 17:46:31 GMT

In article <C0nsBC.3BG@atherton.com>, carlos@atherton.com (Carlos Chang) writes:
> I've got a 72 Jeepster w/232 motor.  Whenever it rains heavily, my jeepster
> won't start.  Turns over but it doesn't sound like ignition is occuring.
> Can anyone suggest areas to check for moisture that could keep her from
> starting.  I'm thinking about going over( by guessing) the electrical 
> system and dabbing some silicone junk or spray over the areas that might
> get wet.  Is this dangerous?  As you can tell, I'm not too knowledgeable
> about this so your suggestions/advice is very much appreciated.  Gotta get
> this fixed before attempting a run to tahoe.(snow)
> 

Get some Wire Dry and spray the sh*t out of all your plugs and plug wires,
also the *inside* of the distributor cap.


-- 
 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *    Of course I speak for: Fermilab, Congress and the President... NOT!!!
From: david@trsvax.tandy.com
Date: 04 Jan 93 17:50 CST
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Diagnostics
Message-ID: <107200002@trsvax>
Nf-ID: #N:trsvax:107200002:000:605
Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!david    Jan  4 17:50:00 1993


I hope this is appropriate subject for this group. I have an interest in 
hearing from anyone whom has an opinion about the Snap-on scanner, part
MT2591-2989 (Deluxe Scanner w/Fast-Track Troubleshooter System), $1,600.00.
Failing that, does anyone have an opinion about the Snap-on 4 gas analyzer,
part # MT3100A, $I can't count that high?
And finally, the printer (serial/parallel) for the scope. Is there any 
reason why any old S/P printer from some large international computer 
company, wouldn't work?




     Ya'll be good!                              DISCLAIMER:
						 Delete (USE YANK AND PUT)
From: efk00@cd.amdahl.com (Eddie Kieger)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Convert points -> electronic ignition?
Date: 11 Jan 93 22:49:45 GMT
Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA

Howdy all:

I am soliciting ideas on the best (tm) way to convert a '74 small block 
chevy 350 from points to electronic ignition. 

I have seen generic conversion kits in catalogs, but it seems to me that 
it would be easier (and maybe cheaper?) to just drop a (used) HEI 
distributor into the motor. I am under the impression that chevy went 
from points -> HEI in '74, so is the block the same for the points and 
HEI motors?? Am I dreaming, or would this work? What other
parts/work/connections would be needed to complete the conversion
besides 
the distributor? 

Is it better to go with a conversion kit & keep the old distributor? 
Any suggestions appreciated.

Please respond via email, as I (unfortunately :-( ) don't have the time 
to read this newsgroup often.

Thanx in advance for your help.


Don't tread on me..........................................I bite
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Eddie Kieger                             efk00@cd.amdahl.com 
For Pay:      System Design Engineer     Amdahl Corp.
              Bringing you better mainframe computers
For Fun:      "River Rat"                SBU-XI SPECWARGRU1 (USNR)
              Bringing hellfire and brimstone to a river near you!
From: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee <jslee>)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: AC Delco oil filters?
Date: 4 Jan 93 22:59:27 GMT
Reply-To: jslee@nrtc.nrtc.northrop.com (John Lee)
Distribution: usa

> mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com writes:
>Be careful on the PF51->PF52 usage. The PF52 has an anti-drainback valve while
>the PF51 does not.
>
	This is true; a PF52 will sub for a PF51 but not vice versa. I
suppose I should have the -> point the other way (  <-  ).

	The PF47 is anti-drainback valved; the PF40 is not. The only
difference between the PF25 and PF35 is the can size. The PF35 is about
33% taller, meaning more filter capacity. Make sure you adjust for this
when checking oil levels after a change.
JSLee
From: koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines
Date: 10 Jan 93 17:00:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: nosc.1993Jan10.170037.5621
Organization: Naval Ocean Systems Center, San Diego

In article <4578@sicsun.epfl.ch> boutzev@lcaohp1.epfl.ch writes:
>In article <1993Jan8.185219.28648@nosc.mil>, koziarz@halibut.nosc.mil (Walter A. Koziarz) writes:

>|> hmmmmmmmm, I don't know *what* it was you saw, but the 'hummer' is not
>|> aircooled... it's powered by the second-generation GM conversion engine and is
>|> liquid-cooled...
>|> 
>|> Walt K.

>here are details of what I really saw:

	[ much deleted... ]

>The guy was polite enough to explain me that the vehicle he was 
>in charge of was a hummer.
>Automatic transmission and 8 cyl air cooled dieselo he said.....
>Torsen limited slip differentials. Went near 110 km/h when in good mood.
>He didn't agree to show me the engine.
>He was also unable to tell me how could I buy one in Europe.
>Hmmmmmmmm. That's was what I've seen and heard from an american soldier
>driving what he called a hummer. This piece of machinery looked like the very
>same ones we have seen on CNN during the desert storm reports.
>Either he had a different model of hummer either he was "misleading the ennemy"
>either the technical training of the US army has to be improved.
>BTW the hummer in quetstion produced a engine noise very similar to the
>ones typically made by engines that have to spin a good size air-cooling
>turbine. 

well, I have no doubt that you recall correctly what that particular GI told
you; but, as you suggested, he *was* incorrect...  the hummer is most assuredly
powered (if you can call it that) by a GM 6.2 liter, second-generation
gas-to-Diesel conversion engine and is most assuredly liquid-cooled.  I
appologize for that GI's lack of familiarity with his vehicle (lord help him if
he ever needs to make a field-repair... all that liquid coolant will surely
confuse the living h*ll out of him...).

Walt K.

p.s. -- hummers can be purchased by civilians in the U.S. I have no idea
whether they are available elsewhere, however...
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Subject: Re: Leaking brake fluid.  How to find leak.
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:25:45 GMT

In article <ahusain.41@comm1> ahusain@comm1 (Asad Husain) writes:
>Hi there.
>
>I seem to have a leak in my brake system.  Every 2 weeks I have to fill up
>my master cylinder with brake fluid.  What can I do to find where the leak
>is.   I have tried to look for obvious leaks but can't find any.
>
Check the brake calipers and rear brake cylinders, any rubber line and any 
metal line that runs right underneath the car, by the frame or axle.
-- 
"Nobody tells a Navy man when he's had enough to drink, cause only a Navy man
 knows when he's had enough to drink!"
-Steven J Orlin   sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu  /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Subject: Re: Symtoms: vibrations on accel, decel = bad driveshaft?
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 14:22:19 GMT
Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL

- Bent driveshaft (but this rarely happens without a memorable incident)
- Transmission tail mount broken/rotted
- Pinion shaft loose on differential
- U-joints about shot
-- 
##########################################################################
#Irresponsible rantings of the author alone. Any resemblance to persons  #
#living or dead then yer bummin. May cause drowsiness. Alcohol may inten-#
#sify this effect. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Billy!#
From: jimf@centerline.com (Jim Frost)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oxygenated Gasoline and Low MPG (super unleaded?)
Date: 8 Jan 1993 15:46:05 GMT
Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.202

bense@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Ron Bense) writes:
>In rec.autos.tech, jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond) writes:

>>Methyl teriary butyl ether, CH3*O*C4H9, a very high octane fuel that

>How does a chemical that only supplies 1 O atom, but requires
>as many as 10 O atoms for a fully combusted (H2O and CO2) product yield
>a lower amount of pollutants at the end? Or are we just switching the
>types of pollutants around? (Forgive me if this has been answered previously,
>but, like so many, I just tuned in.)

The gas burns more slowly and completely, which I believe will yield
fewer NOx emmissions and more CO2.

One thing that just occurred to me is that by dropping fuel efficiency
by 10% or more you boost fuel tax revenue by the same amount.  Hmm.

jim frost
jimf@centerline.com
From: pnkerton@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Phil Pinkerton)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 17:02:25 GMT
Subject: Re: Holley 2300 leaks internally...Fix????
Organization: HP Information Networks, Cupertino, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

I had a similar problem. Turns out one of the floats had a micro-crack
along a solder seam. I replaced the floats and the flooding stopped.
I guess the float would take in gas keeping the valve open.


Phil
From: andrew@airs.com (Andrew Evans)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Adiabatic engines (was Re: Soviet Air-cooled diesel engines)
Date: 8 Jan 93 22:24:04 GMT
Organization: Infinity Development, Waltham, MA

dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) writes:

> The US Army Tank Command has done a wad of research on what they call
> an "adiabatic" (I know it's not the correct word, but it's what THEY
> call it) Diesel that runs without any external cooling at all.

Quite a few years ago there was a feature in Popular Science about a
gasoline adiabatic engine that Smokey Yunick invented.  It was a
two-cylinder/four stroke engine, carbureted, with a turbocharger.  The
exhaust heat was used to pre-heat the intake air in two stages.  The
turbocharger was used not so much for high boost, but to stuff the
expanding air into the combustion chamber, since it tended to want to
come back out the carb when it got hot.  The performance figures were
outrageous: something like 150 bhp for an 80 ci two-cylinder engine.
PS said all the auto companies were driving the hell out of it, trying
to make it ping, but it wouldn't.  The combustion chambers had some
high-swirl intake ports and pistons, I think.

Anybody know what ever happened to this?

-- 
Andrew Evans (andrew@airs.com) - Infinity Development Systems - Waltham, MA
From: rhoades@ll.mit.edu (Captain Chaos)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tires: BFGoodrich vs. Goodyear
Date: 6 Jan 93 00:12:17 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: MIT Lincoln Laboratory

In article <1993Jan5.160238.25695@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> Al Mark <amark@inst-sun1.jpl.nasa.gov> writes:
>
>Don't fall into the trap of looking for tires with higher treadwear
>ratings.  These ratings are determined by the tire manufacturer....there
>are no comparitive standards in the tire industry.  Generally, the tire
>manufacturer is honest, however treadwear is related to
>"softness/hardness" of the tire.....i.e., the lower the rating the
>"softer" the rubber compund.  The "softer" the tire, the more adhesion. 
>

I think it is the Comp T/A HR/VR with the 340 rating -- other T/As may
have different numbers.

My understanding is that the treadwear number is a reference number, compared
to a standard tire (whose treadware is 100).  What's non-standard in the 
industry (unregulated) is the 'standard' tire.  So I'd expect that each
manufacturer is indeed self-consistent, but that due to differences in,
say, Goodyear's 100 tire and BFGoodrich's 100 tire, the ratings for
different brands are difficult to compare.

On the other hand, I think temperature/traction ratings are standard,
and you should go for A's in both.

For a reference point, I have 195/60-15 Comp T/A HR4s on my Mazda, and have
put 40,000 reasonably aggressive miles on them.  As a result of infrequent
rotation, two are worn out (and were worn out probably 5k ago), and two
are fine (another 10k?  not sure).  I am trying to decide on the replacements
as I type this.  I'd wanted to switch to a non-all-season, but I am wary
of mixing tread-patterns and don't want to pop for 4 tires while 2 are
still good -- advice?.

Andrew
rhoades@ll.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech