HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: podmorjl@NeXTwork.Rose-Hulman.Edu (Jonathan L Podmore)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.racing
Subject: Riding and Racing with Suspension
Date: 30 Sep 92 17:58:06 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Sep30.175806.14964
Organization: Rose-Hulman Institute of Technology

Distribution: world

Hello, I have just bought my first suspension fork for my MTB. After  
installing it on my bike I had a brilliant idea of testing it. So off I went  
and my first idea was to jump a curb, just like with my normal fork. So I  
headed for the curb and as I approached I pulled up and nothing happened,  
well, except that my tire went straight into the curb and I nearly did an  
endo. So this experience taught me that things are a little different when  
riding with suspension.

So what i am asking is for helpful hints on riding and hopefully someday  
racing with front fork suspension.

I will be most gratefull for any information, so I don't have to find out the  
hard way again when riding. 

Thanks in advance

Jon
podmorjl@nextwork.rose-hulman.edu
From: gkolstad@reed.edu (Geoffrey Kolstad)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: Ticketing illegal cycling (was Re: Bikes and sidewalks)
Date: 29 Sep 92 01:37:44 GMT
Article-I.D.: reed.1992Sep29.013744.28517
Organization: Reed College, Portland, OR


After being pulled over for running a stop sign and having the nerve to not 
carry my wallet with me, the nice police officer told me that he would 
have to take me to the police station until my "identity has been established"
Luckily I had a driver's license he could radio in and check on or that
motorcycle cop would have had a hell of a time serparating me from my bike
while he drove me to jail. There are a million reasons why all people on their
bikes should stop at all stop signs, but I don't know one person who does.

I hate being accountable!!!

Geoffrey Kolstad
gkolstad@reed.edu

ps I was stopped in So. CA.:(
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:22827 rec.bicycles.marketplace:489
From: dreeves@ese.ogi.edu (Doug Reeves)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.marketplace
Subject: Re: Burley tandem summary
Keywords: request for original survey
Date: 29 Sep 92 15:11:05 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Oregon Graduate Institute - Department of Env. Science and Eng.

Can anyone either re-post or mail me the Burley survey (if there
was such an official beast).
I'm seriousally looking at a Santana Vision ($2200) or the
more flexy and less well built and equiped Trek T100 (*$1300*).
We don't have a local Burley Dealer though, so I'm curious about
their "bargain" bikes.

Ride bike built for two,
D. Reeves


--
|B. Douglas Reeves  Dept. Environmental Sci.& Eng.   Oregon Graduate Institute|
|N6XHW on 146.900 in PDX                   dreeves@ese.ogi.edu everywhere else|
|  "... life itself represents a nonequilibrium condition." - James F. Pankow |
From: upsiu@mcs.drexel.edu (Paul Siu)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Tire size and riding
Date: 2 Oct 1992 00:43:18 -0500
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu

My rims are measured 27" x 1-1/8".  The bike was originally designed for
sport riding, so the tires measured 27"x1-1/4".   If I get 27"x1-1/8" tires,
would the bike be easier to ride (due to lower resistant?).

I ride in the city, and I worry that 27"x1-1/8" tires will not be sufficent
to protect the rims.  I weight about 145 lbs, do I need 27"x1-1/4" tires?

Thanks

Paul Siu
upsiu@mcs.drexel.edu
From: andre@avalanche.Canada.Sun.Com (Andre Giroux # let me outta here)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: roads & inconsiderate motorists
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:50:52 GMT
Reply-To: andre@avalanche.Canada.Sun.Com
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.

Hi.

What I am about to say maybe offending to some riders but it remains a true fact.
bicycles do not belong on heavy traffic roads. A nice ride in the country is the real
road bike use. streets are for cars. I understand bicycle is a mean of transport for
a lot of people. Bicycles sould be used on bike roads. there are more and more of 
these. I just think bikers are already invading a territory designed for car use, AND
are expecting them to be *kind*. A bike once hit my front fender with his pedal.
I was not stopped, not my fault ! . Not amusing....Plus a bike in town WITH cars is
a moving target to me.

andre

PS : bicycles belong in a mountain..., but it's very personnal....
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

"I know a lot of people who used to ski, I don't know anyone who used to
 snowboard"

 - from K2 Gyrator add

 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
From: tomk@netcom.com (Thomas H. Kunich)
Subject: Re: roads & inconsiderate motorists
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 16:25:12 GMT

In article <10557@baird.cs.strath.ac.uk> sproven@cs.strath.ac.uk (Simon B Proven IE91) writes:
>
>Roads have existed long before cars, therefore cars should not have exclusive
>rights over them.  In fact, back when roads in the UK were all of very poor
>quality, it was cyclists who campainged to have them improved - and then car
>drivers started to monopolise the use of roads.  Bikes are legal on roads
>other than motorways in the UK, which I can accept as the motorways were
>built specifically for car use (though I dispute the need for more motorways).

In the United States the League of American Wheelmen lobbied Congress
starting in about 1880 to build intercity/state highways with metaled
surfaces. This predates the _invention_ of the automobile by about 16 years.

So the interstate highway system was brought into being specifically 
for bicycles!
From: phoffman@crcvms.unl.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Bicycle FAQ problems!
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:53:45 GMT
Article-I.D.: crcvms.1992Sep30.135345.1
Organization: University of Nebraska - Lincoln

I am trying to do a anonymous FTP of the bicycle FAQ located (according
to information contained in a posting elsewhere) at draco.asc.uci.edu
I assume (incorrectly?) the login is: anonymous
However, I'm stopped short by the password prompt. Where do I go from here?
Trying to get my FAQs straight,
Paul
********************************************************************************Paul S. Hoffman	
Paul S. Hoffman			           INTERNET: phoffman@crcvms.unl.edu
OCLC Network Coordinator
Nebraska Library Commission    
1420 P Street	Lincoln, NE   68508
(402) 471-2045  fax: (402) 471-2083        "Solvitar Ambulando"
********************************************************************************
From: camlau@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (**bj**)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles
Subject: Re: damage to trails - cause found!
Date: 5 Oct 92 16:36:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <9rnzz!n@rpi.edu>, dinsmm@marcus.its.rpi.edu (Michael Dinsmore) writes...
>While riding my brand new mtn bike, i found out
>what causes damage to the trails.  No, it isn't
>mountain bikes...

>After I came around a bend I saw a guy and a gal
>going at it like bunnies!  Right on the trail!
>Hmmm.....What does IMBA say about yielding to 
>that???

Don't know what IMBA says, but I'd bunny hop around them.

+-------------------------------------------+
|               O               /^^\        |  
|              /\,            /^    ^^\     |   
|             -\ -       /^^^^ /^^\    ^\   |  
|              /(*)  /^^^   /^^    ^     ^^ |
|  \___Q    (*) /^^^^   /^^^   **bj**       |     
|  /\ /\    ^^^^                            |
+-------------------------------------------+
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles:22958 rec.bicycles.misc:753 rec.bicycles.soc:441
From: bb11807@thug (Brian A. Blow)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles,rec.bicycles.misc,rec.bicycles.soc
Subject: Re: DO YOU shower after a commute?
Date: 3 Oct 92 04:03:53 GMT
Organization: Medtronic, Inc.
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4

I am one of the fortunate to have a shower at work, so I take advantage
of it.  My commute is about 15mi, taking me about 50 min.  But it takes
me about 20-25 to drive it, so I don't consider the time a real problem.

And just to let you know that there really are companies that care about
commuters, Medtronic (pacemakers 'R us) has an incentive program for
commuters.  I carry a little punchcard with 25 squares on it.  Every time
I commute in, the security guard punches it.  Every 5 punches and I get
a free lunch ticket.  When all 25 are punched, I turn it in for a $10
gift certificate at a local bike shop.

Mention this to your employer; you might be surprised how willing they
may be to provide an incentive.  It really doesn't cost the company that
much.

My next punchcard is going to go toward a light set so I can ride later
into the fall.

--Brian

brian.blow@medtronic.com
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Lathe sanding - avoiding sanding rings
Date: 28 Sep 92 15:20:12 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1992Sep28.121915.17741@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines) writes:
>I've completed a couple of projects on a wood lathe; candle stands, lamps,
>etc... It's always quite difficult to eliminate or avoid rings around the
>object after sanding.  I use various grits, pressure, and speeds.  
>Are there tricks that I'm missing, or will I always have to manually sand
>the piece with the grain after I'm done with the lathe?

There's an old saying that goes "You must sand seven times with the grain to
remove a scratch made by sanding once across the grain". As far as I know,
you're stuck with sanding each piece after removal from the lathe.

patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | If you maintain your motorcycle yourself,
                    | eventually you will have two of them.
                    |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: kimnach@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (GREG KIMNACH)
Subject: Re: No more important safety rule than this.
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date: 29 Sep 1992 10:41 EST  

In article <1992Sep24.203340.8097@col.hp.com>, saksa@col.hp.com (Tom Saksa) writes...
>My daughters are getting to the age where they want to learn a
>bit about woodworking, and I want encourage them.  However, I also
>want them to learn about safety from the start.  No, they wont be
>running the old table saw, but pounding in a few nails can be bad
>enough when your aim is not that good.
> 
>What I would like to do is get them some safety goggles. I have a
>pair of child size safety glasses, and I can also find the type
>that kids use in Jr. High chemistry classes.  But what I would
>really like to find is the same type of goggles I wear only in a
>child size.  You know, the kind with the soft plastic wrap-around
>frames that you see in most hardware stores.
> 
>Can you get this type of goggles in kids sizes?  I am starting to
>think that the folks that make safety devices just assume that
>kids will never do anything dangerous. :)

I would like to add that it is equally important--though not as 
dramatically apparent--to protect the ears from the excessive noise in your
shop.  Hearing loss comes a bit at a time.

Greg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
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                                                                --R. Lebron 
Another version:
"It's not what you know, it's what you do.  And you don't know what to do!"
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Tablesaws and their warranties
Date: 5 Oct 92 15:48:38 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <1992Oct2.153859.20420@newshub.sdsu.edu>, oliver@delphi (George Oliver) writes:
> 
> Like many people in this group, I have tablesaw questions.  I am thinking
> about getting a tablesaw and am curious about how significant warranty
> periods are.

I think your best warranty is to use the tail off it during the first 90 days
and break anything that looks weak.  Most manufacturers and importers are
more receptive to complaints early in the life of the tool, and a lot of
times you can simply get a new part - you don't have to ship the whole
saw back.

>  I have a small garage and need a saw I can move around but
> I also want one that is sturdy and will last a long time.

The HTC wheeled bases sound like your answer.  However, I've got one and
I eventually decided to go back to building my own with heavy duty ball
bearing swivel casters I got at OSH (a local full-line hardware store).  I
figured I got better wheel quality by building my own.

>  I figure that I
> need some sort of contractors saw.  I have looked at the Delta, Ryobi BT3000,
> Grizzly, and AMT.  Because of price and possitive opions in this group, I am
> leaning towards the Grizzly.

In spite of a rather notorious posting I made a while back, Grizzly does
have a rapid parts replacement policy.  In addition, I've had no problem with
my Grizzly cabinet saw, although I did modify the fence extension because
the legs were flimsy.  I can't comment on the contractors saw.

>  However, the AMT appears to be of similar
> quality but they offer a 10 year parts warranty compared with the Grizzly 1
> year warranty.  What are peoples opinions on this.  Also, what do you guys
> think of the AMT brand.

There was a thread not two weeks ago on this very subject.  Opinions seemed
mixed.


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sat, 26 Sep 1992 18:36:26 EDT
From:         FABY000 <FABY@NMUMUS.BITNET>
Subject:      furniture design books

I built a dining table and chairs from a design that was in Wood
Magazine several years ago.  In fact I built two of these table and
chairs for two of my children.  The design is simple and plane looking.
You may want to take a look at it. Roger Barry
From: tennis@ziff.com
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: THE SMITHY combo tool
Date: 29 Sep 92 23:28:45 EDT
Organization: Ziff-Davis, Medford MA

A friend of mine is considering getting into metal working.  Has
anybody ever heard of "THE SMITHY", a metal-lathe/drill/mill combo tool?
I saw the adv in Popular Mechanix. Opinions wanted, thanks in advance.

Tony

Sorry if this is not appropriate here, but I did not see a metalworking IG.
From: johnk@ulysses.atmos.colostate.edu (John Kleist)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Window glazing
Date: 2 Oct 92 18:48:55 GMT
Reply-To: johnk@ulysses.Atmos.ColoState.edu
Organization: Dept of Atmos Sci, Colorado State Univ

David Bartnik writes:
|> I'm in the process of repairing a few windows around my house before
|> winter and I have yet to learn the secret of applying glazing to the
|> windows without it sticking to my fingers and putty knife. Hardly any
|> of the glazing sticks to the window and what does looks awful. I've 
|> tried applying it warm and cold and nothing seems to work.  Any help
|> would be appreciated.
|> 

I've been doing a lot of glazing lately.  Here's my $0.02:

1)  If the putty (glazing compound) is NOT sticking to your fingers, it is
probably too hard and should be replaced (or rejuvenated as has been suggested).
Open the can before you leave the hardware store and check that is soft and
sticky.  Last week I got a gallon of the stuff that had hardened on the surface.
It was very difficult to get good results.

2)  The windows need to be clean and dust free.  I like to remove all the
old putty.  A heat gun works well to soften the putty.  Be careful not to
overheat the glass (I cracked a pane this way.)  I clean up the wood with
a small stainles steel brush and use a vacuum to remove all the dust and
debris.

3)  Use lots of putty and press it firmly in place.  You will recover
any excess when you smooth it.

4)  A clean, smooth putty knife makes spreading the putty easier.  The
angle between the putty and the knife should be shallow, say about 20 deg.
Try smoothing in one continuous motion.  I do all 4 sides and then clean
up the corners.  If the putty sticks to the knife, try moistening the
knife slightly with water. 

5)  Practice.  I've now finished reglazing 8 windows (10 more to go); 
#8 looks much better than #1.
-- 
John Kleist                                   johnk@ulysses.atmos.colostate.edu
Department of Atmospheric Science             (303) 491-8220
Colorado State University                     (303) 484-3754
Fort Collins CO 80523
From: hsc@sybase.com (Howard Cohen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Smoothing a concave arc
Date: 25 Sep 92 01:14:04 GMT
Organization: Sybase, Inc.

In article <1992Sep21.211914.26156@eos.arc.nasa.gov> phil@eos.arc.nasa.gov (Phil Stone) writes:
>
>Various posts in this thread have recommended the use of a
>drill press-mounted drum sander for curve shaping and finishing.
>I have alway wondered one thing about d.p. drum sanders - is it
>bad for the drill press's alignment and runout to be putting
>pressure on it laterally, as occurs when using a drum sander?

Perhaps. It all depends on how much lateral pressure is actually applied.
You don't have to lean on the work to get the sanding drum to do its job.
I use router bits in my drill press (on the fastest speed -- I take light
cuts).  Its probably not great either, but I recently checked the runout,
and it was about +/- .001.  So I haven't caused any major problems yet.  I'm
not too concerned.  If the bearings go, then I'll replace them.

BTW, I have the Delta 14" bench model drill press.  

	Howard
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen
  hsc@sybase.com  {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc
  Sybase, Inc.    6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 510-596-3406
From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Delta table saw for sale...
Date: 2 Oct 92 23:50:38 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va.

In article <1992Oct2.163227.20018@adobe.com> bennett@adobe.com writes:
>
>Did you know that Delta's 13" planer, model # 22-661, which sells mail
>order discount for about $1100, is made in Taiwan? 
>

If true, this is a very recent development. All the 13" planers, as well as the
DJ-15 and DJ-20 jointers I've seen were made in the Invicta factory in Brazil. 
I'm very happy with my DJ-15, by the way (and I'd like to latch onto the 13"
planer). 

-Steve Strickland
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
Subject: Re: Delta table saw for sale...
Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Distribution: ca
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 23:26:47 GMT

Geoff Caras writes
> For Sale:
> Delta Tilting Arbor Saw with 52" Unifence....
> The tilting arbor saw looks similar to the contractor's saw except
> the entire table surface and wings are cast iron (HEAVY!)....
> It has a 1.5 horse motor and is wired for 220...
> I had a mobile base custom made for it by HTC ...
> If the price is right I will throw in the blade that is on it now, an
> 80 tooth carbide blade (very, very smooth)...
> $1100.00 or best offer.

I haven't seen this saw, so I can't comment directly on its value.
For comparison purposes Delta's 10" Tilting Arbor cabinet saw,
w/ cast iron wings and 52" Unifence is about $1220 new (out of state
mail order including freight). The mobile base is $170.

For the extra $290 you get:
	1) A new machine with full warranty
	2) 2 HP 220 volt motor
	3) Magnetic starter
	4) Fully enclosed base instead of an open stand
	5) Angle stops adjustable from above the table top

You do give up:
	1) $290 ($120 if you don't need the mobile base)
	2) The carbide blade (used)

The cabinet saw also has T slots, I don't know if Mr. Caras' does or not.
Again, I'm not flaming Mr. Caras, nor commenting on whether this is a
good deal or not. I'm simply providing a point of reference.
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BITNET@pucc.Princeton.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Mon, 28 Sep 1992 13:37:30 -0800
From:         RMTYE@BIIVAX.DP.BECKMAN.COM
Subject:      Re: benchtop jointers: opinions wanted

Hi John,

I was looking at small jointers (with similar criteria to yours) about 9
months ago.

Sears sells the same little jointer as AMT (they even have a smaller one too)
you can go see one very easily.

I didn't get one; but, They don't look bad except the out feed table IS
NOT ADJUSTABLE. The motor is rated at about 5 amps, which should be just fine
for edge jointing; but, a bit wimpy for serfiacing a piece of 4" wide oak.

I ended up refurbishing and old craftsman 4" jointer. After I cleaned it up I
mounted it to a piece of 3/4" plywood with an 8 amp moter, an old fan belt and
a home made belt guard. It works supprisingly well, doesn't take up much room
and if the whole thing were lighter it would qualify a portable.

The old jointer came with an adjustable out feed table. It didn't seem very
important; but, I wouldn't be able to adjust it for a really accurate cut
with out it.

Harbor freight has a cast iron 4" jointer for about $190 (including motor and
shipping). I believe it has all the adjustments and controls of a standard 6"
jointer. You might want to consider it.

                         Good luck....


                        Ron Tye (all opinions my own)

        How about postin what you finaly get and how you like it?
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: doshay@ursa.arc.nasa.gov (David Doshay)
Subject: Re: Bandsaw wheel brushes
Organization: NASA-Ames Biocomputation Center
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1992 16:34:09 GMT

.... original posting comments about cutting up a scrub brush and attaching
     with angle iron .....

You can also use an old tooth-brush. A little heat applied to the handle to
get a bend, and drill through the handle for attachment to the saw. Cut the
handle wherever to avoid  mounting problems.

David		doshay@soma.arc.nasa.gov

The thought police insist I tell you:
my thoughts, not NASA's
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 2 Oct 1992 13:23:04 EST
From:         Bill Alexander <ALEX@NKI.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: Window glazing
              1 Oct 1992 12:53:17 GMT from <bartnik@ACSU.BUFFALO.EDU>

On Thu, 1 Oct 1992 12:53:17 GMT David Bartnik said:
>I'm in the process of repairing a few windows around my house before
>winter and I have yet to learn the secret of applying glazing to the
>windows without it sticking to my fingers and putty knife. Hardly any
>of the glazing sticks to the window and what does looks awful. I've
>tried applying it warm and cold and nothing seems to work.  Any help
>would be appreciated.

I watched a profession glazier (?) working this summer. His trick was dipping
his hands into kerosene before handling the putty. It both made it more
workable and kept it from sticking to his hands.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevenj@microsoft.com (Steven Johnson)
Subject: General vs. Powermatic
Date: 05 Oct 92 17:26:10 GMT
Organization: Microsoft Corp.
Keywords: general, powermatic

Do people ever discuss table saws in this group?  (:^))

I have a question for owners or experienced shoppers in regards
to the Powermatic 66 and the General table saw of similar
price/construction.

How do these saws compare?  Does the General tilt the blade
toward or away from the fence?  Is the General a pretty well
made saw, or is it rougher like the Grizzly?

If you can't tell, I'm trying to decide between these two.  They're
both made in North America, but the General is made in that North
American third-world country called Canada.  I hear they drink alot of
beer up there to keep warm, but they may still be able to put together
a decent table saw.  Any experiences??

P.S. Jingoistic slander above is strictly jovial in nature -- I really
think Canada is a great place.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking