HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rogerv@sco.COM (Roger Vortman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: a friendly warning on bamboo
Date: Mon, 06 Apr 92 19:58:27 GMT
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.


>One warning on growing bamboo outdoors.  It can be quite rampant and spread
>like a fiend.  You can have bamboo plantlets coming up quite far from
>where you actually planted them.  Maybe this is less the case in the really
>marginal climates.  I can`t speak for those.  I have a neighbor who planted
>bamboo in 3-ft boxes.  He thought he had taken adequate precautions because
>he also dug down a bit and surrounded the boxes on the outside with sunken
>cinder blocks.  Well, he was wrong, and he is now finding bamboo shoots
>in his lawn.   Just a friendly warning to all would-be bamboo growers.

There are at least two main varieties of bamboo, "running" and "clumping".
The running varieties are very vigorous and aggressive, but can be dealt
with as well.  I am very suprised that a 3 foot box would not prevent the
spread of the bamboo.  A person in our area who specializes in growing
bamboo (and has some very beautiful, large, boxed specimens, in addition to
lots of starters, etc.) says that the rhizomes/roots will not go below
18" in the ground.  Actually, he says 12", but says use 18" to be safe.

There are also other methods of dealing with it, like digging a narrow trench
around the bamboo that is about a foot deep, and cutting any rhizomes/roots
that cross it.  Also, if you cut the shoots off as the come up, this will
control them.

Also, the clumping variety tend to spread much slower, as they stay in a
clump, and the clump just gets larger, rather than sending up shoots far
away from the main group.

I would like to hear more about this...was the box in the ground?  Was this
a matter of not providing a solid barrier?  Concrete blocks in the ground
can move apart after a period of time if they are not anchored.  I was 
advised to put a continuous strip of sheet metal (18" deep) around a bamboo
garden, or to used a raised box that has no contact with the ground for
18" of depth, etc.

Since I really like the look and the vigor of bamboo (after it is established,
of course), I would like to hear the whole story here.  If what I have heard
and read is all wrong, then I would like to know before I plant any bamboo.

Thanks.

-Roger
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jcj@tellabs.com (jcj)
Subject: Source for zoysia plugs?
Originator: jcj@sunhc
Organization: Wazmodyne Industries
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 14:00:38 GMT


	After dealing with the midwestern drought (I know, nowhere
near as bad as CA, but anyway...) and overseeding and watering as
much as possible and on and on, my lawn still looks terrible, so
I've decided to give zoysia a try.  Does anybody have an address of
a supplier of zoysia plugs?  Anything I should know about this stuff
aside from it going brown at first frost?  Thanks.

-- 
		        jcj@tellabs.com
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Recommendation for bulbs to plant in spring
Summary: ranunculus and anemones and ... will come up
Date: 7 Apr 92 16:18:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: gtephx.1992Apr7.161819.4207
Distribution: usa
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Apr6.144047.26735@cbnewsi.cb.att.com>, acura@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (james.r.feeney) writes:
> We are looking to plant some bulbs in our garden. Are there types that
> can be planted now and will do well, or must bulbs be planted in the
> fall? 
> 
We stuck a bunch of ranunculus, anemone and gladiolus bulbs in the ground, also
some asiatic and oriental lilly bulbs this spring, and they came right up. Some
bulbs are considered spring bulbs, and some bulbs are fall bulbs, but even most
fall bulbs come up in the spring anyhow! Your local nursery will have bulbs that
can be planted now. Glads should be planted every two weeks or so to give yourself
blooms that don't all come at once. Hollyhocks can also be planted now as bare
root plants. I think freesias might also be planted as bulbs now.

Good luck and have fun.



-- 
--Mindy in Phoenix            
******************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic
AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering
From: sfinfroc@luke.eecs.wsu.edu (Scott Finfrock - Grad Student)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Enquiry about Fungicide "Benlate"
Date: 16 Apr 92 05:36:06 GMT
Organization: Washington State University

In article <kuoi82INN1ul@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes:
>Tony Plate asks:
>> Enquiry about Fungicide "Benlate"
>> Does anyone know anything about this fungicide?  
>> I hear that it is banned in the U.S. 
>
>you hear wrong -- benlate is *widely* used here
>

The maker of Benlate has withdrawn support of it for application to
ornamentals.  As I understand it that makes it effectively illegal to
use on flowers, bulbs, etc. but it is still ok for lawns, fruits, vegetables,
trees, etc. (I don't know why).  Supposedly you can still use any that has a 
lable thats lists ornamentals but any new batches won't have that on it.

This is, apparently, rather a problem for gladiolus growers (and, I'm sure,
others) for whom Benlate was a sort of keystone fungicide.

Scott Finfrock


--
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Looking for water garden mail order
Summary: Lilypons
Date: 10 Apr 92 16:32:20 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <2460@voodoo.UUCP>, mnb@voodoo.boeing.com (Mike Burr) writes:
> 
> I just aquired a man-made pond which is a little too sterile for my
> taste.  I'd like to add some interesting water plants, fish, etc.
> Anybody know of some good sources?
> 
Since I'm at work and don't have these things here, I don't have an address for
you - I'm sure somebody out there will - but the most wonderful wishbook for
water gardens comes from Lilypons. They advertise in all the good gardening
magazines, and their catalog has zillions of kinds of water plants, as well
as supplies for the pond, and even some packages with plants, scavengers and
fish. (they do not have much of a selection of koi, other than to be able to
get some from them.) Someday, I will get around to building a little pond in
my yard (after hubbie quits giving me reasons why I shouldn't), and then I
will get out their catalog and have a VERY hard time deciding what I want in
it.

Mindy

-- 
*****************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm       FAX: (602) 52-7111
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu              Voice: (602) 582-7374
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Foliage plant industry statistics requested
From: C.B.Christie@massey.ac.nz (C.B. Christie)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 92 03:51:12 GMT
Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand
X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c


Hi there

I am trying to find an email address to a person or the Statistics
section of the Florida Dept of Agriculture.

Alternatively an email address to  J.N. Joiner or somebody else at the
Department of Horticulture, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences,
University of Florida.

Or contacting any person that may be able to give a reliable estimate of
the foliage plant industry in the USA and possibly over the world.

Direct replies by email would be appreciated alhtough there may be some
interest in this information elsewhere within the network.

Thanks in anticipation

Bruce Christie

C.B.Christie@massey.ac.nz
From: Ethan.Hack@newcastle.ac.uk (E.Hack)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Enquiry about Fungicide "Benlate"
Date: 16 Apr 92 12:32:40 GMT
Organization: University of Newcastle upon Tyne, UK NE1 7RU

In article <92Apr15.104236edt.431@neuron.ai.toronto.edu>
tap@cs.toronto.edu (Tony Plate) writes:
>Does anyone know anything about this fungicide?  I hear
>that it is banned in the U.S.  My family in Australia has
>been using it to control powdery mildew on grape vines.

Benomyl, the active ingredient of Benlate, is a systemic fungicide.
This means that it is taken up by plants, in contrast to older
fungicides, which stick to the outside surface of the plant.  Its
mechanism of action is highly specific to fungi, so that it has low
toxicity to other organisms (that's why plants can safely take it up).
One should, however, bear in mind that other components of the
formulation may have their own toxicity--compare the recent postings
on glyphosate.

Benomyl was hailed as a wonder fungicide when it was introduced 20-odd
years ago.  Its specificity reduced worries about poisoning other
organisms, and its systemic properties meant that growers could use 
fewer sprays than with older fungicides.  Unfortunately, there is a
catch: fungi can readily develop resistance to it.  A single mutation
in a fungus provides complete resistance, and resistance seems to have
no adverse side-effects, so the resistant fungus grows just as well as
a sensitive one.  In some cases where control with benomyl was used
intensively (and short-sightedly), it became completely ineffective
only two seasons after it was introduced (an example is control
of grey mould on grapes in Switzerland).

When benomyl becomes ineffective in controlling a particular disease,
it is generally withdrawn from use for that disease, but it may still
be used for other diseases.  This may be what you heard about.

If you want more information, there is a good, clear review on
fungicide resistance in the 1991 Annual Review of Phytopathology
(volume 29, pp 421-442) by T Staub (from which I obtained the
information about grey mould on Swiss grapes).  This should be in any
halfway decent university library.

>Are there any effective alternatives?

There is a wide selection of fungicides available for controlling
powdery mildew of cereals.  One would expect these to work on powdery
mildew of grape vines as well, but I don't have any specific
information (grape vines are not a major crop in the UK!).  Resistance
to some of these alternatives is also a problem, although in most
cases it is less serious than with benomyl because the resistance is
not as effective.

Ethan Hack
Department of Biological and Nutritional Sciences, The University,
Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 7RU, England
E-mail: Ethan.Hack @ newcastle.ac.uk
From: Ecology Center Fund <ecologycntr@igc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 10 Apr 92 08:39 PDT
Subject: Re: Rhaphiolepis indica (Indian Hawthor
Nf-ID: #R:1992Apr9.195441.5226@constellati:695553999:cdp:1453300027:000:442
Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!ecologycntr    Apr 10 08:39:00 1992


In Berkeley, Raphiolepis is known widely as a "landscape architect plant",
in other words one which will survive even if planted in completely 
inappropriate locations and given no care, or worse, given too much care.
Consequently, they're planted all over.  They seem to grow anywhere from
pH 5.0 to 8.0. Sun is better, though light shade doesn't bother them.
Around here you can usually find one blooming just about any time of year.
Chris

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: sdg@wag.caltech.edu (Siddharth Dasgupta)
Subject: Lime tree
Summary: Need help on lime tree
Keywords: Lime
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 23:12:34 GMT


We have a dwarf Bearss Lime Tree. The problem is that as soon as the
flowers mature into tiny limes, most of them fall off the tree. Last
year from a profusion of flowers, we got only one lime! Is there
something obviously wrong (like too little water or lack of a
particular nutrient)? Please help. I read this newsgroup infrequently
- so please e-mail to sdg@wag.caltech.edu. Thanks a lot.
From: karen@synopsys.com (Karen Vahtra)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: I think I killed my boxwoods :-(
Date: 9 Apr 92 23:09:58 GMT
Organization: Synopsys Inc.

In article <1992Apr9.143457.11472@wuecl.wustl.edu> jab3@cec2.wustl.edu (John Alonzo Breen) writes:
>1.  How long should I wait before I pronounce them dead?
>
>2.  Should I have covered them up when we had sudden cold snaps?  I
>assumed they didn't need it, since they're evergreens.
>
>3.  Should I pull off the dead leaves, or leave them alone?
>
>4.  Is this an unusual number of bushes to lose on a first attempt?
>



I've got an additional boxwood question.  I have a large 25 foot hedge
of them in the front.  Unfortunately one died this winter.   My horticulture
friend says it is because I aggressively trimmed it.  They are probably 10 years
old, I don't know, I've only lived there a year.


1.  How do I make the hedge look okay with one missing plant?

2.  Any hope for the dead one?  I tried fertilizer.


3.  Any suggestions for getting a new one to grow super fast?

Karen
From: tony@scotty.dccs.upenn.edu (Anthony Olejnik)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Request for Public Domain Lawn/Landscaping SW (Mac or PC)
Date: 8 Apr 92 18:02:53 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

Does anyone know of any Public Domain / Shareware Software
(for either the PC or the Mac) on Lawn care/landscaping/gardening?

Thanks in advance.

--tony
From: machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Rhaphiolepis indica (Indian Hawthorn) question
Summary: oooops!
Keywords: Indian Hawthorn
Date: 10 Apr 92 23:21:31 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona

In article <1992Apr10.162823.6674@gtephx.UUCP>, machanicm@gtephx.UUCP (Mindy Machanic) writes:
> > Rhaphiolepis indica and about all the tag says is medium shrub.  It is
> > an evergreen with pretty pink flowers.  What I'm interested in is some
> > information on the plant's habit and culture.  Also, soil preference
> 
> We've got a white one in our front yard here in Phoenix. We planted it last year,
> and it's done a great job of getting fat. They're supposed to get to be about
> 4-6" tall and around (that's a medium shrub to some people, but it's a pretty big
> one to me!) In the spring, it sent out zillions of flowers - quite pretty. After


OOPS! I mean it gets 4-6 feet not 4-6 inches!

Mindy




-- 
*****************************************************************************************
Mindy Machanic  (AG Communication Systems/Quality Engineering, Phoenix, AZ)               
UUCP: ....!{ncar!noao!asuvax | att}!gtephx!machanicm       FAX: (602) 52-7111
Internet: gtephx!machanicm@asuvax.eas.asu.edu              Voice: (602) 582-7374
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Elephant Ear 
Date: 12 Apr 92 17:11:04 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <92101.084400U27468@uicvm.uic.edu>, Nancy Bulinski <U27468@uicvm.uic.edu> writes:
> I purchased a bulb for what I believe is called an "elephant ear"
> palm.  

Sounds like "elephant ears", Colocasia esculenta, also known as taro.
If so, it's a member of the Araceae, the philodendron family.  Likes warmth,
nutrients, and water, and can be moved up in pot size as fast as the old
pot fills with roots (unpot it to check).  I use it around here for
"screening greenery" in the summer in semi-shade -- makes a good disguise
for another d**n compost pile, as my former landlord referred to them...

If your plant has simple, rather heart-shaped leaves with lobed edges,
you've probably got a Colocasia.  True palms tend to have fan-shaped,
pleated leaves or once pinnately compound leaves.  I don't know of any
that are "bulbous", but I'm not too knowledgable a principarian.

BTW, the "new" name for the palm family is Arecaceae; Palmae is
preferred by us romantics and those who think a traditional name is
more fun than strict consistency.

Kay Klier   Biology Dept  UNI  


Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: jwagner@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Judith O Wagner)
Subject: Re: I think I killed my boxwoods : -(
Organization: The Ohio State University
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1992 16:39:50 GMT
From: sdg@wag.caltech.edu (Siddharth Dasgupta)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Tuberose?
Date: 16 Apr 92 06:04:51 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA

In article <1992Apr15.132502.23192@cbfsb.cb.att.com> djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) writes:
>Last night, while reading Evelyn Waugh's "While the Going Was Good" I came
>across a description of "great spear-shaped white flowers, sheathed in
>barbed leaves" and "giving off a scent of almost stifling richness" and
>reported "throughout Arabia to act an an aphrodesiac among women."
>
>I assume this is tuberose.  But I don't recall tuberose leaves being barbed,
>and earlier in the book Waugh mentions tuberoses by name--so why does he
>not name them here (although, the book is compiled from other books,
>so the earlier reference may have come later, when he knew the name).
>
>Could this be something other than tuberose?
>
>(By the way, someone emailed me that I should add tuberose to the "Scents
>the Whole Garden List", which I will eventually do when I update it.)
>
I think there are other tropical flowers that might fit the
description of Waugh, but none comes to mind now.

I have a question regarding tuberoses. I puirchased 2 tuberose and 2
gladiolus tubers from the local nursery and planted them the same day
in one corner of the garden. The two gladioli bulbs sprouted (tho' at
different times) but nary a sign of the tuberoses. Do these bulbs need
special care (like an extra dose of N or extra water) or could this be
From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: cyprepedium
Date: 7 Apr 92 17:19:50 -0500
Organization: University of Northern Iowa

In article <73022@netnews.upenn.edu>, Ellenb@mac.dev.upenn.edu (Ellen Bart) writes:
> I tried to post this earlier, but I don't think it worked, so here goes again:
> Has anyone been able to successfully propagate North American Cypripediums?
> At the Philadelphia Flower Show, one of the growers displayed C. calceolus in
> his exhibit.  He told me it had been propagated by root cuttings.  However,
> I think I recall reading that, at this point, this was unsuccessful, and
> one should not purchase these plants because they had been removed from
> the wild -- and in many cases, are threatened or endangered.  

Cypripediums can be propagated by rhizome divisions (not root cuttings);
however many of the plants offered for sale are wild-collected (read:
selfishly dug from natural habitats, destroying entire populations).
Cypripedium acaule is almost always wild-collected.

I know of only one grower who is sucessfully growing and dividing
various Cypripedium species; he's also made the first successful artificial
hybrid, C. pubescens x C. reginae 'Genesis'.  (I consider the common
North American yellow ladyslipper to be C. pubescens, not the same
species as the European yellow, C. calceolus).

I have also seen "growers" who steal plants from natural populations,
plunk them into a bed in the fall, and lift and sell them in the spring,
calling them "cultivated plants".

Me?  I wouldn't purchase any orchid species without being darn sure that it
was _propagated_, not lifted from a natural population.  With good care,
less than 20% of plants removed from natural populations will survive.
I've had my first taste of attempting to grow Cypripedium candidum in 
a greenhouse and transplant to a reconstructed prairie (the plants were
from a railroad prairie that had been sold to an adjacent landowner,
and the landowner was going to bulldoze it).  I've had a 60% survival
rate over 2 years, and even with expert coaching from Carson Whitlow,
Philip Cribb, and Mark Chase, it's been a real struggle.

Kay Klier   Biology Dept   UNI
(I work with natural hybrids between Cypripedium species)
From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Enquiry about Fungicide "Benlate"
Date: 16 Apr 92 17:15:30 GMT
Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston)
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennesee, Knoxville
NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu

Scott Finfrock writes:
> In article <kuoi82INN1ul@utkcs2.cs.utk.edu> 
> langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes:
> >Tony Plate asks:
> >> Enquiry about Fungicide "Benlate"
> >> Does anyone know anything about this fungicide?  
> >> I hear that it is banned in the U.S. 
> >
> >you hear wrong -- benlate is *widely* used here
> >
> 
> The maker of Benlate has withdrawn support of it for application to
> ornamentals.  As I understand it that makes it effectively illegal to
> use on flowers, bulbs, etc. but it is still ok for lawns, fruits, vegetables,
> trees, etc. (I don't know why).... 

this is really a rather delicate issue -- let me reiterate a portion of my
original posting (which scott omitted and which may be relevant):

> perhaps your source is thinking of the recent alledged 
> problems with benlate DF contamination -- but that is a 
> long and extremely murky story unto itself...

i believe only dry flowable (DF) is involved here -- users of WP and
other formualtions have not to my knowledge made accusations 

a florida grower out there may be brave enough to provide specifics 
(but check with your lawyer first ;-> )

------
Michael A. Langston  <langston@cs.utk.edu>
------
Gentlemen!  You can't fight in here!  This is the War Room!
   -- Mr. President (Peter Sellers) in Dr. Strangelove
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house