HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Engine removal in an 1977 Olds Cutlass
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 23 Jul 92 23:11:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059


-> side.  I can not imagine how to get at this bolt as the firewall is
-> almost right up against it.

 The factory installed the engine/trans as an assembled unit.  In cases
like yours where clearances are tight, you usually have to remove the
transmission crossmember and lower the trans with a floor jack, tilting
the back of the engine down.  This often gets enough clearance to get to
the bolt.

 I usually go ahead and pull the whole thing; it's six of one vs. half a
dozen of the other, but you can clean the trans and put new front and
rear seals in while it's out.
                 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 19:16:42 GMT


In article <1992Jul27.170616.21276@bnr.ca>, (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> In article <1992Jul24.183321.25371@kronos.arc.nasa.gov>, chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry) writes:
|> |> In article <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> |> >Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a normally
|> |> >aspirated V-8 engine?
|> 
|> [some discussion deleted]
|> 
|> |> 
|> |> All of the above sounds good for a "mild" hop-up, damn near no-hassle
|> |> street motor.  This motor should produce OK low end and dynamite
|> |> midrange torque, and probably poop out around 5500 RPM or so.
|> 
|> I setup the governor to shift at ~5000 rpm based on the piston speed for the 
|> Pont 400 engine. The stroke is 3.75" which works out to a piston speed around
|> 2750 ft/sec at 5000 rpm. I have been told that with metals and bearings of 
   ^^^^

Ok, so I was asleep when I wrote this. 2750 should have read 3125 ft/min.


Ericy

P.S.   i ThiNk I aM AwakE nOw.   |^0   ZZZZZZZZ
From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Rear brake trouble Alfa Romeo Giulietta
Keywords: Alfa, brakes
Date: 31 Jul 92 17:19:46 GMT
Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson)
Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics

In article <1992Jul30.194748.26261@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
>
>the setup is nearly identical to that on my Alfa Milano (Alfa 75 in
>europe.)  the direction that you turn the adjusters on the brake calipers
>tends to be non-obvious and non-symetrical on these cars (they are italian,
>after all.)  i cannot remember the details, but if you can adjust one
>caliper, then when you go to adjust the other caliper, one of the
>adjusters turns in the same direction as the matching one on the
>first caliper, and the other turns in the opposite direction from the
>matching one on the first.  also, it takes a bit of turning before
>there is enough space.
>
I think the Milano at least has the same ATE caliper as on the
Alfettas: I don't know about the reborn Giuliettas. On the Alfetta the
four screws turn this way:
The outer pad screw on each side is a simple screw with an Allen head
and a separate lock nut. The lock nut sits down in a depression so it
is hard to turn at the same time that you use an allen wrench, but I
ground a cheap box wrench to make a special tool for it. Since these
screws DO have lock nuts they turn in a "natural" direction, the same
on both sides.
The inner screw is driven through a right-angled gear from a hex shaped
shaft: You turn the shaft (I just use a small socket) which runs at
right angles to the screw, sort of from above and rear, and it turns
the screw which is parallel to the disc piston axis. There is no lock
nut on this. As such it is not the same on both sides, supposedly so
that the normal vibration and such will affect both the same way. I
don't see this having much effect, but the result is that the inner
screw on the left side caliper turns clockwise to tighten while the
one on the right side turns counterclockwise to tighten. I remember
this by thinking "the left side is right handed".
BTW don't turn these too far without paying attention to what is
happening: If you unscrew the outer ones too much you will discover
brake fluid running around the threads, while if you loosen the inner
ones too much (turning the hex after the screw is actually at the end
of its travel) the hex piece may force its retaining clip out of the
way and come out. It can be put back without much trouble but it is a
surprise!
Bob Wilson
wilson@math.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: bjy@med.unc.edu (Brian J. Young)
Subject: resetting 'emissions' warning on Chevette?
Originator: bjy@addor
Organization: UNC-CH School of Medicine
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 21:03:31 GMT

Anyone know how to reset the emissions warning on a 1982 Chevette?  It is
a 'flag' on which is written "emissions" and partially obscures the odometer.
Many thanks in advance.

-Brian

Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:9970 rec.autos:18246
From: mizutanit@wharton.upenn.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
Subject: Replacing exhaust system
Date: 22 Jul 92 15:48:22 GMT
Reply-To: rec.autos.tech, rec.autos
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech, rec.autos
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

I'm thinking of replacing the exhaust on my 1987 Nissan Pathfinder with 
some sort of performance exhaust system. I would like to keep the truck
emmissions legal while gaining some horsepower.

I've heard good things about the Borla stainless steel exhausts, but they 
were quite expensive, if I recall correctly.

I'm also considering replacing the exhaust manifold with headers or a freer-
flowing manifold.

Anyone have any suggestions/comments?

Thanks in advance,

Taka
From: jca@bliss.fibercom.com (Chris "Cheesester" Akers)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:36:38 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: FiberCom, Inc., Roanoke, Virginia

In article <Bs43q3.7Bn@fmsrl7.srl.ford.com> tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
>On a related note...
>
>What's the net.wisdom on manual transmissions instead of
>automatics?  I know that torque converters are very inefficient,
>wasting perhaps 10-15% of engine power.  However, they are a good,
>repeatable way to get the engine up to high RPM.
>
>Any actual on-the-strip experience out there?
>
>Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>

At the drag strip, consistency is what wins races... not power.  Automatic
transmissions tend to act in a predictable manner, delivering quick, powerful
shifts (with no adverse effect on wear!!!) while very rarely missing
gears!  :-)  I do know some racers who swear by their manual transmissions:
"I'd rather eat worms than drive an automatic" -Dixie Deuce , and can drive
and launch them consistently.  If you're good... what the hell?
Chris.
  

-- 
   _____ ___  ___  __________________________________________________________
     /  /    /  / James C. Akers    jca@fibercom.com    uunet!fibercom!jca   |
    /  /    /--/ 703-342-6700 Moment of terror is the beginning of life-F242 |
___/  /___ /  / _____________________________________________________________|
From: jxt@calmasd.Prime.COM (Jawahar Tembulkar)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Carbon Buildup in engines ( valves ? ).....
Date: 21 Jul 92 19:19:31 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: Computervision, San Diego, CA

I am given to understand that cars can experience loss in power ( also
knocking, oinging, etc., ) due to "carbon buildup".

A few fundamental questions:

* How can one diagnose if in fact there is carbon buildup ?

* What causes carbon buildup
  [ I have heard some people say that if the overwhelming majority of
    trips in the car is of short distance, the engine does not get up
    to the optimum working temperature long enough to burn the carbon
    which is a residue of internal combustion.  Is this correct ? ]

* Can it be prevented
  [ Can regular long distance trips prevent carbon buildup ? ]

* How can it be "fixed"
  [ I have read on this newsgroup that taking apart at least part of
    the engine, and subjecting the carbon deposit areas to "crushed
    walnut shells" is the best way to remove the deposits.  Is this
    really the cae ?  What would such a thing cost ?
    Chevron, etc., sell a "Techron" based chemical which is supposed
    to clean feul injectors, etc.  Would this help burn carbon
    deposits ? ]

regards,


Jawa
 



-- 
* Statutory Disclaimer : These are merely my views.	*
* Jawahar M. Tembulkar, Computervision, R & D, 		*
* 9805 Scranton Road, San Diego, CA, 92121, USA.	*
* UUCP : uunet!calmasd!jxt	voice : (619) 587-3078	*
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 09:41:19 GMT

tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone) writes:
: 
: What's the net.wisdom on manual transmissions instead of
: automatics?  I know that torque converters are very inefficient,
: wasting perhaps 10-15% of engine power.  However, they are a good,
: repeatable way to get the engine up to high RPM.
: 
IMHO, I'd have to say that the only time I'd have an automatic is if I had to
drive in traffic often.  A manual is a pain at these times.

If you are looking for performance, you can most likely learn how to
shift at MUCH better times than an automatic would.  They are usually
set up for mileage rather than performace, and don't take the engine
up to optimal power range before shifting.

--

Dave Hinz  -  Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's.  Obviously.
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay for what you get.
hinz@picard.med.ge.com
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Door/vanity lights won't come on
Date: 28 Jul 92 18:25:00 GMT
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.

In rec.autos.tech, ccm038@rosie.ucdavis.edu (Jason Yan (can cook)) writes:

>A while back, the fuse for my door lights, vanity lights, trunk blew
>out.  I tried replacing the fuse with the correct one, but each time,
>it would blow out on contact.  Am I supposed to switch the vanity
>lights to the OFF position before sticking in the fuse?  Or is
>there a short somewhere that I should look for?  It's an 86.5
>Toyota Supra.

You have a short.  The fact that you might have some lights turned on when
you insert a new fuse should not cause it to blow.  There really is no
difference between switching the current to the lights with (say) the door
light switch and switching the current by inserting the fuse.

I assume that the vanity light is on the visor, and the trunk light is
on the trunk lid.  Since both of these move, I would start there looking
for damaged insulation on the wires to the lights.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,rec.autos
From: howardr@col.hp.com (Howard Rebel)
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 18:48:04 GMT
Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division

In article <BrwLuF.H4s@taligent.com> tom_santos@taligent.com (Tom Santos) writes:
>Has anyone messed around with synthetic oils like AMSOil or Redline?  I have
>heard that they are superior to petroleum-based oils in many ways.  AMSOil has a
>line of "superior" filtration products too.
>--
>Tom Santos                                 (tom_santos@taligent.com)

I have a car that was run on AMSOil for last 40K of the 70K 
miles on it.  The engine seems to have suffered.

IMHO:  Stay away from synthetic oils which suggest that you leave the
oil in the car for a long time.  Use a good brand of oil and change
it often (2k-3k miles).




-- 
Howard Rebel hpcsos.col.hp.com
Organization: Arizona State University
Date: Thursday, 30 Jul 1992 06:49:42 MST
From: Bob Kaneshige <KHAAV@ASUACAD.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: J B Weld?

In article <1992Jul29.135414.24644@m.cs.uiuc.edu>, ward@m.cs.uiuc.edu (Christ
Ward) says:
>
>I'm wandering if anybody out there has used this stuff as they claim it can
>be used...i.e. to fix tractor axles, the inside of an engine, or any of their
>increadible claims.  I used it because AFOM swears by the strange goo.

I was driving home one day when the engine just died and would not restart.
After getting the car towed home, I found that the distributor shaft had
snapped off at the bottom, just above the gear.  I had two choices, tear the
top end apart or try to pull the gear up through the opening in the intake
manifold.  I tried magnets, those long extension with 'fingers', even super
glue.  Since the gear is beveled, you had to lift and rotate...rotating it
is just about impossible w/o it dropping.  I finally put J B on the end of
a long bolt and stuck it on top of the gear and left it there over night to
cure.  I was able to pull it out very easily the next day.

  Bob
From: borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 15:50:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Voyager xmissions:  good?  bad?
Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) writes:

>I'm ready to buy a used Grand Voyager or Grand Caravan.  A while back there
>was a writeup in Consumer Reports about problems with the overdrive xmission
>that they first started putting in these beasts, I believe in 89.  Does
>anyone know when, if ever, Chrysler fixed the problem in the units being
>manufactured?  How can I tell if the one I'm looking at is a potential lemon?
>Is there a single standard fix, or was it a collection of problems?  Blah,
>blah, you get the idea.

I think you would be OK if the transmission had been replaced with a later
unit.  The latest version of the transmission (without the "Ultradrive"
name) share only 20% of the parts with the original design.


Donald Borowski    WA6OMI    Hewlett-Packard, Spokane Division
"Angels are able to fly because they take themselves so lightly."
                                       -G.K. Chesterton

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mack@isl.Stanford.EDU (mack)
Subject: Timing belt is fine, I don't know what the problem is (was Re: Timing belt replacement in a Sentra)
Organization: Stanford University
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 17:07:51 GMT


First of all, thank to all of you who responded on net or via e-mail.
They were all very useful as I will be replacing my timing belt even
though it's not broken!

Last week I wrote:

>I need some net.advice for replacing the timing belt on my Nissan
>Sentra 85. The original belt worked for 102K miles before it gave in,
>and the car died on me last Friday. I had it towed home (God bless

Well, in my spare time, I started working on the belt. First I wanted
to make sure that the belt was not working. So I opened the
distributor cap and then started the car. The rotar didn't turn
indicating that the cam shaft is not turning. I was quite sure that
the problem is with the timing belt. So when I opened it up, the
timing belt was intact, and everything looked fine. i started the car
again, and this time I noticed that the crank shaft is not turning.
Now, there could be many reasons for that such as the engine freezing
on me. Does anyone have any words of advice? Any other possibilities?

    Thanks,
    --mack

--
For as long as I know how to love, I know I'll stay alive.
I've got all my life to live, I've got all my love to give
and I'll survive, I will survive.          --Gloria Gaynor
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Paint Problem on New Car
Keywords: paint
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1992 13:45:44 GMT

jayc@hubcap.clemson.edu (Jay Crawford) writes:

>I washed my new car (6 months old) because it had some tree and bird droppings
>on it.  When I was drying, it looked like I had not washed all the stains off.
>I began to rewash these areas, only to see that the stains *were* gone, but it
>looked as if the outline of the stains were still there.  The area feels smooth
>to the touch, and yet it seems like the "ghosts" of the stains remain *under*
>the clear coat.  Is this possible?  Anyone have any idea what's happening and
>how I can fix this?  Thanks.
>-- 
>Jay Crawford          

>jayc@hubcap.clemson.ed

well, this is the same that happened to mothers car a few years ago, it
seems that a big bird decided to use her car for target pratice, and hit
it right on the nose, about three days later I finally decide towash tht
car, once I scrub the sh*t off, i find noting but BARE METAL, the birs
had some VERY acidic sh*t in his system, and took off the paint, sounds
somewhat like your problem, the only thing youcan really try is getting
some rubbing compoundand rubbing the area a little and waxing it up real
good...the stain did not go under the clear coat, but probably rather
took off the clear coat...does the area look duller that the surounding
area?, if so, the clear coat has been removed or thinned out...
u
From: met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Run On
Date: 23 Jul 92 18:13:20 GMT
Organization: Northern Arizona University, Flagstaff AZ

In article <1992Jul21.151937.1@sc9.intel.com> rcrandall@sc9.intel.com writes:
>
>
>I've got a 68 camaro with a 327 small block.  In the morning, if the
>choke is not completely off, and I shut the ignition off, the car will
>run on.  I want to know if anybody knows of the best method of getting
>the motor stopped in a case like this.  It has run as long as 30 seconds
>and usually backfires in the process.  
>
>Rob

leave the car in gear when you shut her down. 
when you get home tonight leave your car idleing, open the hood and turn
the idle screw up until she idles at around 1600rpm's. get the garden 
hose and turn it on to a slow but steady dribble. remove your air 
cleaner top and let the water from your hose dribble into the engine. 
If the engine starts to bog and die pull the hose away and turn the 
dribble down or set the idle up. then return the water to the engine for
about 10 minutes.
this will remove carbon build-up from the cylinders and probably remove
the run-on problem also.
NO this will not harm your engine. I have used this technique for 20 
yrs. and on every make of vehicle.

***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Cyclone GT *385*/427 3 deuces and a 4spd with a 9"locker
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto (now deemed repairable)
1949 1/2 ton Chevy pickumup truck $350.00
1965 "A" code Mustang
***************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: montyb@alpha.aosg.gsf.dec.com (Monty C. Brandenberg)
Subject: Re: What does GT mean in all these sports models ?
Organization: AOSG
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 18:02:58 GMT

In article <1992Jul29.223234.17504@nezsdc.icl.co.nz>, derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
|> It stands for Gran Turismo (I think that is spelt right).
|> 
|> Or Grand Tourer in English.
|> 
|> The curious thing is you would generally associate a convertible
|> with the Grand tour<tm> (of Europe) in question,  yet GT cars,
|> almost by definition, all have a roof.  
|> 

Ah, but then there are the variations on GT:

GTS:  Gran Turismo Spyder which gives you the open touring car.
Although, this has been bastardized in the US to Grand Touring
Sport which really means:  no power, an automatic transmission,
and a suspension that rides like a john boat in a hurricane.

GTO:  Gran Turismo Omologato (sp?) which is a homologated version
of the GT intended for some types of road races.  There aren't many
of these races so the designation is mostly historical at this
point.

					Monty
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: (Eric Youngblood)
Subject: Re: Increasing power?
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 17:06:16 GMT

In article <1992Jul24.183321.25371@kronos.arc.nasa.gov>, chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry) writes:
|> In article <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
|> >Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a normally
|> >aspirated V-8 engine?

[some discussion deleted]

|> 
|> All of the above sounds good for a "mild" hop-up, damn near no-hassle
|> street motor.  This motor should produce OK low end and dynamite
|> midrange torque, and probably poop out around 5500 RPM or so.

I setup the governor to shift at ~5000 rpm based on the piston speed for the 
Pont 400 engine. The stroke is 3.75" which works out to a piston speed around
2750 ft/sec at 5000 rpm. I have been told that with metals and bearings of this
era it can handle up to 3500 ft/sec (works out to about 5600 rpm). Would I benefit
by allowing more revs? (I was being conservative to prevent engine wear/damage)

|> 
|> So how does it feel?  Does it bog when the secondaries kick in, or is
|> it one smooth rush of power from start to finish?  Is there still
|> power left when the trans shifts?

The power output builds pretty evenly up through 3200 RPM and then it really
begins so pull hard up to the shift at about 5000 rpm. The 1-2 shift breaks the
rear end loose and it will get squirrelly on you if you are not paying attention.
It feels like its still pulling strong when it shifts and gives you a good kick-in
-the-pants. Also the 1-2 shift puts the rpm in the 3000 range for 2nd gear. Bottom
line is pulls best above 3000 rpm.

Street driving is a breeze and this idle is smooth enough to leave in gear at
stoplights. Allthough you can *definitely* tell there's some addition cam in the
engine. I would consider it streetable.

|> 
|> >Traction is provided by Goodyear ST P235R15 radials. Track times
|> >indicate an extreemly sluggish 60 foot times.
|> 
|> Do you have problems getting traction?  These tires aren't known for
|> their ability to grip the 'strip.  If you get serious about drag
|> racing, get serious drag tires.  You may need other traction remedies
|> as well.
|>

Traction off the line NOT! I cant get near full throttle until about 5-10 mph,
otherwise I'll just sit and spin. I will brake torque the drive train and then
apply about half throttle until after 5mph and then full throttle.


I appreciate everyone's comments,

so far the most recommended change is to the rear-end ratio followed closely by
alterations to the torque converter (higher stall) and tires (better traction). 

All of these could improve the numbers.

Thanks,		

Ericy
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech