HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: exuclh@exu.ericsson.se (Calvin L. Hall, x 6521, s034)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Cracked Head Chrysler/Mitsubishi 2.2l
Date: 30 Sep 92 21:34:37 GMT
Reply-To: exuclh@exu.ericsson.se
Organization: Ericsson Network Systems, Inc.
X-Disclaimer: This article was posted by a user at Ericsson in North America.
              The opinions expressed are strictly those of the user and
              not necessarily those of Ericsson.

In article 250992122141@128.149.100.150, brein@gpvax.jpl.nasa.gov (Barry Rein) writes:
> I have an 1987 Plymouth Sundance with the Mitsubishi 2.2 liter Turbo. 
> Intermittently for the past year when it gets hot the car has been running
> rough then stalling.
> 
> It seems there is a cylinder head problem--bubbles in the radiator.
> 
> When I took it to my mechanic he said it's one of two things, either a
> blown head gasket, or a cracked cylinder head.  If it's the gasket it'll
> cost about $500, but if the head is cracked it will have to be replaced to
> the tune of $1000.  It's an aluminum head, and he claims it cannot be
> repaired by heliarcing.
> 
> I thought cracked cylinder heads could be repaired.  Has anyone else had
> cylinder head problems with this engine?  If so, what was done, and what
> did it cost?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> ******************************************
> *       Barry Rein                       *
> *       brein@dsfvax.jpl.nasa.gov        *
> ******************************************
> *       No clever comment.               *
> ******************************************


I have a 86 Dodge Caravan, 2.6. I went through the cracked block scenerio. 
It cost a total of $2600 at the local dealership. They convinced me
to replace the timing belts while the head was off.

The second time I blew a head gasket I decided to attempt the 
repair myself. I bought a good repair manual, checked out 2
more repair manuals from the library and got started. I tagged
and labeled everything to the extreme. I took the head to a 
machine shop and had it checked for cracks and they cleaned it
up on the mill. I reinstalled everything without many problems.
All together the job cost about $180. and approximately 16 hours
of inexperienced labor.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kelley@cwis.unomaha.edu (Sean Kelley)
Subject: Re: Wax Removal
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 16:45:04 GMT

	NOT!
>|> >The easiest way to remove wax is fairly simple.
>|> >Just go wherever you buy the wax that you use
>|> >and they should have a product called "rubbing 
>|> >compound". A myriad of companies make the stuff,

Okay, the EASIEST way to remove wax is to goto a automotive paint store,
ask them where there wax and degreaser is, and use it!
this is the stuff that you wipe a car down with before you paint, apply
decals..ect...it takes off the wax, not the paint, and leaves a clean
surface...
>|>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: balance shafts
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 1 Oct 92 23:50:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> at the moment, most people using balance shafts use a MITSUBISHI
-> patent and pay royalties to them for it.

 The idea is very old.  Mitsubishi may have a Japanese patent on it, but
in Japan you can patent almost anything just by making a tiny change to
an existing device.  Unless they can prove their balance shaft is a
significant improvement over Lanchester's, their patent is worthless in
the US and UK.
From:  (Eric Youngblood)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Calling F-body Suspension experts
Date: 2 Oct 92 19:40:27 GMT
Reply-To: Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Richardson, Tx


I am looking for anyone who knows how to tune 69-81 firebird/camaro
suspensions. The problem I am having is during the first 60 feet of
acceleration.  The right rear tire breaks loose while the left rear
does not.  I understand that the torque from the engine loads down
the left rear wheel and unloads the right wheel reducing its grip.

I have read about a technique : "suspension jacking" where the right
rear is tuned to carry about 50 lbs more weight than the other three
wheels, thus helping to overcome unloading during hard acceleration.

Other than installing some sort of drop links on the right side leaf
springs is there any other way?  A local speed shop suggested air shocks
that are under higher pressure on the right side, or traction bars. 
Any expertise or actual experience would be greatly appreciated.

As it is now I can barely apply half throttle at launch which is killing
off the line starts.


Thanks in advance,


Ericy
From: yuanj@ucbeh.san.uc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Distributor Problem?  Help wanted!
Date: 4 Oct 92 09:10:21 EST
Distribution: world
Organization: Univ. of Cincinnati

This is a help wanted.
Car: '87 Subaru DL
Symptom: Too Much Advance for the Timing.
Question: Where should I look for problems?

I adjusted the timing with the vacuum hoses (2 of them) disconnected from the
distributor, according to the Hayes Manual.  It is at 8 degrees before top dead
point (BTDP).

I then reconnect the vacuum hoses, and check where the timing is.  It it about
23 degrees BTDP.  I think it is doing something wrong.  When I go uphill after
a cold start, the car not only pins(sp?), but also stall occasionally.  I
believe it is the wrong timing that causes trouble.

The vacuum hoses has been replaced since I notice the timing problem.  I
thought of vacuum problem in the beginning.  Now I wonder if there is something
wrong in the distributor.  Maybe a "return-spring" is loose or broken?  Maybe
the diaphragm is torn or weak?  I have not decided how to tackle the problem!

Help please!  I appreciate your responses very much!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jeffc@ee.ubc.ca (jeffrey chow)
Subject: Are cylinders in performance cars honed??
Organization: University of BC, Electrical Engineering
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 16:44:52 GMT

Hi all,

  I have an dispute that I want to settle with a friend.  We were having 
a discussion about those engine additives which fill the tiny scratches
that may have developed in piston cylinders thereby reducing the amount
of oil that burns.
  I was speculating that if this product actually did the job then it would
also fill in the crosshatching found in cylinder walls when the cylinder
is honed during manufacturing. This would reduce the effectiveness of the
lubrication system.
  My friend did not agree with this scenario and backed his argument by
saying that the cylinders in performance cars (i.e., indy style cars and
other race track cars) are never honed. I think he's blowing wind.

  So the question to all you netters is: "Are the cylinders in performance
cars honed????".  If not, why not?

  Thanks, 
    Jeff
From: davet@ksr.com (Dave Teichholtz)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Jeep Wrangler Problem
Date: 1 Oct 92 10:50:32 EDT
Organization: Kendall Square Research, Waltham, MA



I have a problem with my Jeep Wrangler (1987, 6 cylinder, carb, 34k miles )
that I would like to throw at the net community. 

This vehicle usually gets used only on weekends to go the dump (maybe 5
minutes away) and during the winter I use it to plow my own driveway (no
commercial plowing). Yesterday on the way to work it died after about 20
minutes. I was just driving down the road, and it started sputtering,
backfired once, and then died. I pulled over to the side of the road, and
lifted the hood. Since it seemed like the ignition had cut out, I checked
the distributer wires, and the coil wire seemed to be a bit loose. I
pushed them all into the distributer and tried to start the Jeep. It
started and idled perfectly. I closed the hood, and drove the final 2
miles to work. During lunch, I took it for a short drive (under 10
minutes) and it seemed ok.

Driving home, after about 20 minutes (and 2 miles from home), it died again.
No sputtering this time, just stopped running as if I had shut off the key. 
If I waited about a minute or two, it would start and run for 10 to 20
seconds, and then die. If I try to start it without waiting, it cranks fine
but does not even try to catch. I had the car towed home (well, that AAA
membership paid for itself :-)). Since my driveway is a nightmare for trucks,
I had the tow driver drop it at the bottom of the driveway, and I started it
and drove it up. It ran for a couple of minutes before I shut it off.  The time
between the last time it died and the tow home was probably about 2 hours. 
(had to feed the kids)

My first instinct is an electrical component failure, and that it is affected
by heat. But is the minute or two that it sits before starting again enough
time for a component to cool?

Also, when I tried to start it immediately after it dies, I don't smell any
gas even after it cranks for 5 - 10 seconds which leads me to believe that
this may be a fuel starvation problem. I think I replaced the fuel filter 
about 2 or three years ago, although with three cars to maintain, It might
have been longer. (Come to think of it.. this might be the original filter)

Any idea's on this? I have some time to try to diagnose it, as we shouldn't
have any snow for a couple of months. (I guess I could save up my trash 
until my friends come over for Thanksgiving dinner and bring it to the 
dump then :-) :-))

Email is best, although I do try to read this category daily. 





--
============================================================================
David Teichholtz                 Kendall Square Research 
davet@ksr.com                    170 Tracer Lane, 
(617) 895-9466                   Waltham Mass. 02154-1379

Women think men will change after marriage.  Men think women won't.
They're both wrong
Lines: 20
Date: Mon,  5 Oct 92 08:22:17 MDT
From: earlyd@newt.ee.byu.edu (David Early)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: world
Organization: Brigham Young University, Provo UT USA
Subject: Valve Job=New rings/bearings?



I have a '74 Datsun 260Z.  Saturday we measured the
compression and found we had ~140psi in #1,2 and 6.
The middle three cylinders were down around 80psi.

I am a little concerned about the low compression on
the middle three, so a valve job may be in order.  

My queston: if I pull the head and have the valve job
done, does this mean I should replace the rings/bearing?

The car is not burning oil.  Period.  Also, the engine
bay is stripped down to the block, so a complete
rebuild wouldn't bee too bad, but not exactly what I
had planned on doing.

Thanks for any advice

Dave Early
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: alau@unixg.ubc.ca (Alaric Lik Lau)
Subject: Questions abou tl posting....
Keywords: psit
Organization: University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1992 22:50:10 GMT

I am wondering about a few things about posting a message on netnews:

How long does a message last on the board? How come some of them are there
forever, while mine was just there for a week? 

What decide the ordering of the postings? How come my article was always at
the end of the board and then was taken off the board before I knew it? 

When I typed :post, the system prompted me for a few things I couldn't 
understand:
keywords? What are they for? summary? Is it just like keywords? 
Distribution? How could I select the distribution? Say I just want my message
to be posted in Canada, what can I do? 

Finally, when my message was posted, there was a '?' between my name and the
subject, while everybody else had numbers instead of '?'. Why?

I would really appreciate some help from all you experts out there :)


Thanks in advance...

                                          Alaric Lau
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 02:39:39 PDT
Subject: Re: Engine cranks but not running
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


sorry, I missed on of your points. You said the old oil was over full and
smelled of gas. 
   2 posibilities.  
   1. Fuel pump pumpping but loosing fuel into the oil thru the diaphram. 
(mechanical fuel pump)
   2. The float in the carb has sunk and the fuel is just running out of the
fuel bowel down the engine. Too much fuel to burn. 
           mike

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: sharen@iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (Sharen A. Rund)
Subject: Re: CADZILLA
Organization: Lockheed Missiles and Space Co.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 92 14:52:36 GMT

>A question,
>    does anyone know if there is any aftermarket equipment for the
>500 cid Cadillacs of the late 60's to mid 70's?  I have a '75 Sedan DeVille
>(4-door hardtop) that I am putting on the shelf for a while and would like to
>dress it up a bit in the engine bay.  In the 50's a company called Detroit
>Racing made items such as headers, 2-4 and 3-2 manifolds and such.  Do they
>still exist?
>Thank you for your time,
>KILROY

Sorry it took so long to respond, but, my husband, Wayne< sez:

try either of these:

MAXIMUM TORQUE SPECIALTIES
201 Otter River Rd, Dept P
Gardner, MA 01440
508-632-2117

CADILLAC MOTORSPORTS DEVELOPMENT
30 S. Main St, Dept CC
Otterbein, IN  47970
317-583-3188

also, any hot rod magazine has this info - both advertise in 
Popular Hot Rodding

PS: There were no 500 cu in Cads in the 50's - Detroit Racing 
    was probably just a retailer not a manufacturer


-- 
________________       __        ________________   "They that can give up
\_________      \     /_ \      /      _________/  essential liberty to 
 \_________      \_____/  \____/      _________/  obtain temporary safety
  \___________________      __________________/  deserve neither liberty 
                     /______\                   nor safety."  
ALL disclaimers apply ....                           --Benjamin Franklin
From: nall@sun8.scri.fsu.edu (John Nall)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Zen, diesel engines, and glow plugs...
Date: 30 Sep 92 19:41:35 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Organization: SCRI, Florida State University

OK, the reliable old 1977 Mercedes diesel refused to start this
morning.  Last night, I drove it home from work, and parked it.
There was nary a sign of any problem.  Nor has there been any
sort of warning that it was planning to do this.  Usually it
starts with no problem at all.

So I'm determined to reason it out before doing anything in a
panic.  I have other cars to drive to work, so no rush.  But I
know little (read "about 2 on a scale of 1 to 100") about diesel
engines.  Perhaps someone would be willing to give tips.

CLUES:

This morning was colder than usual.  Car was running fine when it
was turned off.  Has been running fine for several months.  But
I *have* noticed that the glow-plug indicator (the one which says
to wait until it goes off before engaging the starter) sometimes
comes on while the engine is running.  This only seems to happen
when the engine is still cold, and it goes off, anyway, as soon as
I start driving.

So I figured there is a problem with the glow plugs.  I checked the
voltage at the plugs themselves, and there is about 12 volts at
each plug.  Although the manual says these are serial plugs, since
the voltage runs straight from plug to plug, it appears that perhaps
a modification has been made to use parallel plugs instead (I bought
the car used.  Very used.  Even, perhaps, misused).

Now the problem that I'm having thinking about this, is that there
are 5 glow plugs.  I can see one of them going bad.  Perhaps even
two.  But all?  Surely not.  And if they're in parallel, then why
doesn't it at least *try* to start, even if some of the cylinder are
cold?  Could just one bad parallel glow plug make the engine not
start?  Not even a little bit?

Thus the Zen.  I need to contemplate all this.  Advice appreciated.
Even bad advice.  I will filter.

Thanks,

John

--
John W. Nall              | Supercomputer Computations Research Institute
nall@mailer.scri.fsu.edu  | Florida State University, Tallahassee, Florida
From: pkss@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (philip.k.sikora)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: BMW 325 poor mileage?
Keywords: BMW
Date: 29 Sep 92 21:20:40 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsm.1992Sep29.212040.23295
Distribution: usa
Organization: AT&T

I have an '86 325es. Put on about 6K miles since I bought it (in fact, it's
for sale).
It's and automatic.
My best mileage was on our trip home from Maine. We were doing 75mph w/ the
cruise control set and the air conditioner on.  28mpg. Not sure what it
would do under more favorable conditions. Probably the same.
My friend had a '73 2002 that, invariably, would get 22mpg no matter
what.
BTW, that gauge is a vacuum pressure gauge. Some gross relation to possible
gas mileage. The more mechanically astute
can explain it better than I could ever hope to.

later
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jshin@hamp.hampshire.edu
Subject: Re: Worn out synchros......WHY?
Organization: Hampshire College
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 04:18:50 GMT

In article <1992Sep26.004551.1@hamp.hampshire.edu>, ycheah@hamp.hampshire.edu writes:
> 
> Hi! Those of you who follow this group may be familar with my on going problem
> with my '89 Subaru GL 5sp 4WD transmission. (Problem = Gears grind down shifting
> into second and third, and upshifting into second. Worse when cold.) I had a 
> similar problem with transmission earlier this year and the warranty co.
> put a used tranny (this current one) in. I tried to solve this problem by
> putting in various tranny oils. But no go. (Clutch is OK.) This time around
> I insisted that the warranty co. rebuild the tranny although it will cost me
> some bucks. The dealer opened up the tranny and found that the synchros for
> first and second, and third and forth were worn out. They all (especially the
> one for third) were worn thin. ie. if you placed them flat on a table, 
> they are not as "high" as the new ones. 
> 
> Question: What on earth could have caused the synchros to wear out this way?
> Is this normal wear, or is it a Subaru design defect, or is it coincidental
> that I have two in a row that wears out this way?
> 
> Yin-Chai
>
From: lis@at-mail-server.vitro.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Fog Lamps
Date: 2 Oct 92 18:47:15 GMT
Reply-To: lis@at-mail-server.vitro.com
Organization: Vitro Corp.


 Hi there-

I'm interested in finding fog lamps for both of my cars, an '85 Audi and a '91
Mazda 626.

The area where I live routinely gets 'pea soup' fog, so the lamps are not just
for show. I've heard good things about Hella, PIAA, and Cibie but I'm not sure
if it's just advertising hype-

Also, if anyone knows if either car is factory wired for the lamps, please let
me know.

Thanks in advance-

Larry Spector
LIS@at-mail-server.vitro.com
From: peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: SUBARU 4WD LOCK-UP
Date: 6 Oct 92 14:21:17 GMT
Reply-To: peterson@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Rodney Peterson)
Distribution: usa
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

I HAVE AN '87 SUBARU THAT HAS 4 WHEEL DRIVE.  RECENTLY
THE 4WD HAS BECOME EXTREMELY!!! DIFFICULT TO DISENGAGE.
IT ENGAGES READILY AND EASILY BUT IS A REAL BEAR TO GET
OUT.

I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO LOOK AND HE TOLD ME MY PROBLEM
STEMS FROM UNEVEN TIRE WEAR ON THE FRONT AND REAR TIRES, THAT
A SLIGHT DIFFERENCE IN THE TIRE SIZES, DUE TO WEAR, CAUSES
THE TRANSMISSION TO LOCK-UP.  MY CARE HAS 71,000 MILES AND
I HAVE RECENTLY REPLACE THE FRONT SET OF TIRES AND NOT THE BACK.
BUT TO HAVE THE 4WD LOCK-UP TO THE POINT OF HAVING TO JUMP ON THE
LEVER TO GET IT BACK OUT??!!

ANY ADVISE OR COMMENTS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.  I MAY BE
A NOVICE AT THE WORKINGS OF A CAR, BUT THIS ONE IS REALLY
DIFFICULT TO SWALLOW.

THANKS

ROD PETERSON
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dje@needle.Berkeley.EDU (Don Eilenberger)
Subject: Re: platinum plugs
Reply-To: dje@sword.bellcore.com (Don Eilenberger)
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 17:13:30 GMT

In article <1992Oct5.144132.23324@zeus.ieee.org>, jparadis@ieeefin.ieee.org (Jim Paradise) writes:
|> To make a long story short, my Civic was running like crap, was preparing 
|> for the worst (new catalytic converter, perhaps :().  Because netters' 
|> stories about plat plugs, decided to check mine just for heck of it.  
|> First plug I pulled the electrode was unrecognizable, others weren't as
|> bad, but were getting there.  These plugs had only 3500 miles on them!! 
|> These were Bosch plats.  I installed either Autolite or Champion plats in
|> my wife's 87 Sentra 1.6l 7k ago no problems whatsoever, and that was with
|> a roundtrip to FLA mixed in.  Here we have similary treated autos with no
|> major mechanical differences, reacting differently to these platinum plugs.
|> Hmmm.
|> 
|> Jim P.
|> 


Jim - on the Bosch plugs - the electrode does NOT protrude from the
ceramic center.. it is part of it, and flush with the ceramic. If
you had problems with them, my guesses are:

1. Something else wrong with the engine...
2. You got the wrong heat-range on the Bosches..

I've run them with great luck on a variety of Japanese engines..
mostly Toyota Supra's (regular and turbo variety) - and typically
haven't had ANY problems with milage in excess of 50,000 miles.

The autolite and champion plugs do have protruding electrodes
(the center one) - so they do LOOK different. Haven't really
had any experience with them.

Since I think the topic of this post was originally why platnium?
I'll put in my 2 cents worth:

1. They last MUCH longer
2. Some car manufacturer's call for them on certain engines
(Toyota on Supra engines)
3. They don't cost much more than regular plugs now (Bosch often
on sale at PepBoys or R&S or KMart for $1.99 a plug).

Don Eilenberger (dje@sword.bellcore.com)
From: rzdy@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Pinging with 1986 Ford Escort
Date: 5 Oct 92 01:23:54 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

Hi!
 I wonder if you can help me. I have a Ford Escort 1986 1.9L with 130K miles on
it, and lately, the past month it has been "pinging". I notice it when my
gas pedal is halfway, not when I put fully in or press it just a little bit.
Also this pinging is more noticeable when I go uphill. When I accelerate with
the gear in neutral (I have manual trasmission), I never hear any of this
pinging. I do not have a lot of $$$$ and I was wondering what the problem
is, how much it will cost, and how long the car may last if I do not fix it.
It does not have seem to have lost too much power. 
    Anu suggestions wellcomed!!

  Thank you

  Patrick MORCILLO
Engineer (Of the genetic kind!!!)


Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: esc@ulysses.att.com (E. Steve Crandall)
Subject: New inexpensive pre-oiler
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1992 13:22:34 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill


Has anyone had experience with the "Safety-Start" pre-oiler from
Decision Makers?

Basically it is a small inexpensive ($60) box that delays fuel and
spark for 5 seconds allow the engine to be turned over by the starter
motor with the oil pump lubricating the engine.  At five seconds fuel
and spark are turned on and the engine kicks over.  It has a temperature
sensor that allows the immediate starting if the engine is already warm.

The press release claims that "two major American automakers" are 
evaluating the technique and may install it in future engine computers.

The basic idea sounds good, but I have no idea if this is snake oil.

If anyone is interested the mfg is:

	Decision Makers
	617-332-6188  

	42 Nickerson Road, Newton, MA    02167

Any idea if this would violate mfg warranties like normal preoilers?


Steve Crandall
evan.crandall@att.com