HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: stevensd@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (Doug Stevens)
Subject: Buick 3.8L to 3800
Keywords: burned out transmission and engine
Organization: Purdue University
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 19:35:57 GMT


The torch converter went out in my dads car.  He thought he could make it to the
shop about 20 miles away.  Trying to get the car to the shop he burned out the
motor (at least thats what the mechanic told him).

The mechanic said the best thing we could do is an engine/transmission swap.
This is all fine and dandy, but his car is an 85 Buick Park Avenue and
supposedly the 85 engine/transmission was unique to that year.  So we would have
to replace it with a 85 engine/transmission (with however many miles are on it).

If we are going to invest the money to fix the car, we want to put a newer
engine in the car.  Does anyone know it would be possible (easy) to swap
drivetrains/computer with a newer car.  If so, what years and engine types will
work. 

Thanks for the help, Doug

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       stevendd@mentor.cc.purdue.edu      stevensd@mentor.cc.purdue.edu
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From: gt3930b@prism.gatech.EDU (NICHOLS,STEVEN MALCOLM)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Toyota Tercel Low Fuel Warning Light
Keywords: warning light stays on, any info?
Date: 15 Oct 92 17:17:15 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology

Hi,

I have a question about low-fuel sensors.  The low fuel warning light on my
1983 Toyota Tercel stays on permanently, regardless of actual fuel level.
I have both the Haynes and Chiltons guides, but beyond showing me how
to take apart the dash to get at the light itself, they don't tell me anything.

It seems that I can ignore the light, or take the bulb out, or try to
fix the sensor.  So my 4-part question is:

	1) How does the sensor work?
	2) If someone is familiar with this problem, what
	   is the most likely cause of failure?
	3) Is this something I would have a chance of fixing 
   	   without great effort/expense?
	4) If so, where would I get information about the sensor?

Thanks for any help people can give me!  If you e-mail me, I will summarize
and post the replies.

Steve
gt3930b@hydra.gatech.edu
From: chifang@sybil.cs.Buffalo.EDU (chi fang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Car Losing Power
Date: 15 Oct 92 21:35:18 GMT
Organization: State University of New York at Buffalo/Comp Sci
Originator: chifang@sybil.cs.Buffalo.EDU

Hi, My car is a 84 SURBARU GLC sedan. Last weekend I drove to a state park,
there were lots of steep up-hill sections, and my car managed to move like a
turtle. At one point I pressed the gas pedal hard trying to accelerate, and 
I could feel something was losing traction and smelt something burning.
This happend several times, and these days my car is becoming worse and worse.

I think the problem is with the clutch which might have been worn out, what
do you think? Might there be other problems?

And if I go to a mechnic to replace the clutch, HOW CAN I MAKE SURE THAT THEY
REALLY REPLACE A NEW ONE FOR ME?  One of my friend found after a car accident
that the alternator which he replaced in a rapair shop 2 month ago wasn't a
new one but a rebuilt. Does this happen quite often?

chifang@cs.buffalo.edu
From: bhhardy@cs.utk.edu (Barbara Hardy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Oh dear oh dear... (Was Re: Carb Questions)
Date: 13 Oct 92 12:22:29 GMT
Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville
Summary: Confession


So, Louise, you know you that part about feeling stupid and cursing?
Well, I bought a better manual, and they made a pretty big deal about
the order in which one should tighten down the air cleaner cover. Now,
I have been treating this pretty casually, exposing my ignorance on
this topic. 

On this car, there is a rubber gasket-type thing between the top of
the air horn (I think that is what the air horn is) and the air
cleaner. This gasket thing is attached to a metal plate which supports
the... um, something related to the fuel system. Anyway, you have to
lift this off to take off the carb. I found that if I did not tighten
the wingnuts on the air cleaner, I could still wiggle this gasket
thing some. (Oh... VACCUM LEAK). So I tightened everything down good
and snug and guess what? 

Sigh.

So... I have taken a lot of the advice that people have offered, and
now that the car is running again, I can perform a lot of tests that
require a car to be running. :) 

Someone suggested that the ignition timing might be off, as well. It
was. This was the first time that I had done the timing myself, and it
was pretty exciting seeing that little dot come around and hang out
where it was supposed to. (To anyone out there who is just getting the
hang of fooling around with your car, take heart. If there's hope for
me, there's hope for you.)

So THANK YOU to everyone who has helped me out! 

Barbara

From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 92 19:07:32 PDT
Subject: Re: F350 vs F250 front springs.  Interchangable?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

   Well here I go again, putting my foot in mouth anyway. 
When you go to the junk yard looking for springs, look in the door
frame for the GVWR rating of the rig your thinking about getting the
spings off from. As the gvwr goes up the springs will be stiffer. 
   Check the one on your truck first so you have something to compare 
with.  I've go the 87 F250 4x4 with the 460 and 5 speed, its not to
bad on or off road except for the expansion joints in the concrete roads.
I don't know the GVWR rating on mine but I believe it has the "towing"
package. 
   Also something to think about is the tire/shock combination on your
rig. You might try a narrower tire if your running something a little
over sized and/or a little softer shock. 
   Also, remember if you run empty alot, usually you only need about 
45 - 50 psi in the tires and not the  70 psi you use when carring a
camper or something. Makes a big difference in the ride. 
                Mike Nason

disclaimer: this note will self destruct in a couple of years anyway. 

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: Radials on '60s era cars?
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 18:26:25 GMT

In article <1992Oct9.015145.17654@muddcs.claremont.edu> aroe@jarthur.claremont.edu (Napkin Ball Warrior) writes:
>In article <1992Oct08.161847.26172@i88.isc.com> dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye ) writes:
>>In article <1992Oct7.214440.4916@clipper.ingr.com> greeven@clipper.ingr.com (John Greeven) writes:
>>>many '60s era cars with radials I've also heard that the suspensions
>>>were not designed for radials and the combination can be bad or
>>>even dangerous.  At the very least I would only consider putting on 
>>>4 new radials and not mixing radial and bias ply tires, right?
>
>My '68 Chevelle ran fine on radials with the stock suspension, but I went
>out to get new shocks later on anyway.
>
>>        My parents just bought a '67 that had bias ply tires on it.
>>Mom couldn't believe how bad the thing handled, since she had also been
>>driving a similar vintage car with radials.
>
>Awww, come on!  It wasn't THAT bad, at least from what I remembered, bias

	That's just it; you *don't* remember...My mom didn't remember,
*I* didn't remember.  They seemed fine because we didn't have
anything to compare to!

	If you don't believe me, I've still got the 8.55x14's in
my garage...still mounted.  You are welcome to take them out for a
spin!

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: serpent@admiral.uucp (Eric Lanier)
Subject: AIR COOLED
Reply-To: serpent@admiral.uucp (Eric Lanier)
Organization: The Grid/Waffle BBS, 203-661-2873, -1279, -0450, -2967
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1992 07:08:42 GMT

  Greets, does this group reach anybody in Germany?  I'm looking for info
about high performance products for VW type-4 engines to mainly go into a
Beetle.
 
 Eric

--
serpent%admiral.uucp@yale.edu (Eric Lanier) <yale!admiral!serpent>
The Admiral's Public UNIX - Greenwich, CT - System Administrator: Doug Fields
(HST/V32) (203)661-2873 -- (PEP/V32) -1279 -- (V32) -0450 -- (V29/MNP6) -2967
>FREE!< Unix shell accounts, Usenet access, and Internet-style mail available
From: colombo@bronco.fnal.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of power to guages
Date: 12 Oct 92 22:00:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: bronco.1992Oct12.160036.1
Distribution: na
Organization: Fermilab Computing Division

In article <1992Oct12.172752.1207@njitgw.njit.edu>, J.R. Pych writes:
> Greetings fellow netters.
> 
> While driving down the highway this afternoon, I glanced at my dashboard
> and was surprised to see my gas and coolant guages had quit (they were in
> the position they normally are after turning off the ignition).
> 

I've had a similar problem, the ignition key isn't turned back far enough.
Thatis, from the *start* position to the *on* position.  Many gauges zero
on startup.  I also noticed my turn signals and heater fan didn't work.

-- 
 ___________________________________________________________________________
 *****  *   *  From the e-net desk of: Rick Colombo CD/DCD/DSG    *    *
 *      **  *  Fermi Nat'l Acc'l Lab   708-840-8225 Fermilab     * *   *
 ***    * * *  P.O. Box 500   MS 369   Feynman Computer Center  *****  *
 *      *  **  Batavia, Ill. USA 60510 Colombo@fnal.fnal.gov    *   *  *****
 *    Of course I speak for Fermilab, Congress and the President... NOT !!!
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: jjolly@jjolly.b24b.ingr.com (Jack G. Jolly)
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of power to guages
Organization: Intergraph
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 13:03:26 GMT

A friend of mine had a similar experience - was traced to a loose ground
wire behind the dash.
Organization: Senior, Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Fri,  9 Oct 1992 11:40:13 -0400 
From: "Russell E. Hoffman, II" <rh2y+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Radials on '60s era cars?
Distribution: usa

While we're on the subject of radials on 60's cars... My brother has a
69 Chevelle 2door that he usually runs pretty big meats on (60 series,
about 12 or 13" of tread, 14" rims), but when we were working on my
Camaro, which had radials on when we bought it (Eagle GT's), my brother
thought he'd try out the radials on his Chevelle. Well, the handling
improved like a zillion percent, and now he's wondering if he can get a
set of big meats in radial. Anybody know if such animals exist? And
would the wide radials still be a noticeable improvement in handling?


Thanks,
Russell Hoffman                 | 1970 Split-Bumper Camaro SS
rh2y+@andrew.cmu.edu            | 406 Small Block   13.5:1 CR 
Carnegie Mellon University      | Tunnel Ram 2x650cfm 4bbl    STREET DRIVEN
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

-rwx        1 joe_user                   806 May  1 23:38 file

r - indicates you can look at the file
w - indicates file can be hosed
x - indicates file contains bugs

From: chism@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Wayne Chism)
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 21:10:52 GMT
Subject: Why not . . BOOM !!
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Loveland, CO
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Having just replaced the 'in tank' electric fuel pump in my
beater commuter car, this question comes to mind. . .

How can a DC motor - with commutator, brushes and their
associated arcing operate in a gas tank with assurance that
no explosion will occur?  Obviously if the tank has gas in it, 
the pump is full of liquid and in the presence of no oxygen,
no problem.  BUT, what happens if you run out of gas?  Now
it seems that there could very possibly be the ideal mixture
of air and gasoline vapor in the tank to produce an excellent
bomb!  But it doesn't happen!  The pump is not sealed - i.e.
the motor, commutator, etc. are indeed exposed to the gasoline
and or vapor in the tank.

Curious!

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup)
Subject: Re: Any harm if I put too much engine oil?
Organization: Open Software Foundation
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1992 15:50:06 GMT


Besides the oil foaming problem, there's another (remote) problem that could
go wrong. A couple of years ago, I took my car to a QuickLube place (yeah,
I know, I was in a hurry, and noone would take my used oil anymore- thanks
greenies- not!) and told them to put in six quarts of 15w50 (the six was
because of a slight oil leak; the 15w50 was because of the miles on the
engine). They ended up putting in seven (I knew, as I had brought in a 
case of oil), but I didn't know this. The combination of the high oil
pressure and my "spirited" drving style and high revs snapped off a
couple of gear teeth on my distributor (whose shaft also drives the oil
pump).

-- 
Kenneth R. Crudup, Contractor, OSF DCE QA
OSF, 11 Cambridge Center, Cambridge, MA 02142	+1 617 621 7306
kenny@osf.osf.org			OSF has nothing to do with this post.
	    "Motor oil?!?! <splut> YOU GAVE ME MOTOR OIL?!?!"
Organization: Sophomore, H&SS general, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Date: Wed,  7 Oct 1992 01:08:52 -0400 
From: Paul M Taylor <pt1e+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Holley Probs.

I have a 650 Double pumper Holley on my 400 smal block chevy. 
Everything stock except the carb.
Carb was rebuilt by speed shop. After assembly on the engine. A bog is
noticeable. This bog is an off idle bog. Right after idle the car pulls
exceptionally well. No problems. The 400 should have no prob digesting
the fuel so I inspected the carb. The primaries are only trickling fuel
when gas pedal is pressed. This also affects idle with the car sounding
like it has a miss in it.  The car I assume is running fine only after
the back barrels kick in.
Any ideas as to what is wrong with the primaries on my carb?

Thanks,
Paul

Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1992 21:31:59 GMT

In article <1992Oct12.140611.20951@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> dje@eve.Berkeley.EDU (Don Eilenberger) writes:
>
>
>Chris.. and all:
>
>1. This is a very BAD idea... if you happen to accidently cause a spark,
>or some other electical disturbance - check out the price of a new
>computer...
Good point...  they cost more than O2 sensors and the shop time to install
them :-)

>
>2. Testing Ox sensors: Basic procedure is actually quite simple, and only
>really requires a brain and a good quality VOM (volt-ohm-meter).
I think I at least have the meter...

[ detailed testing procedures deleted ]
Thanks! they are most useful.

>
>Don Eilenberger (dje@sword.bellcore.com)
>
>DISCLAIMER: Any advice is worth what you pay for it, in this
>case nothing. Your results may vary, or you may be a total
>klutz who blows up your car. The information given here is
>JUST information - not a recommendation or suggestion as to
>actions you may take. So there.

What!! I can't call you for warranty work ?  Geez... :-)

It's actually about time for a new vehicle anyway... maybe I'll just
act like a total klutz and blow it up.  It'll certainly eliminate
the immediate frusterations :-)

Chris

Chris Elmquist, N0JCF
elmquist@SSESCO.com
73267.2711@Compuserve.com
(612)342-0003@work (8am-5pm CST6CDT)
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Calling F-body Suspension experts
Date: 8 Oct 92 16:24:36 GMT
Article-I.D.: i88.1992Oct08.162436.26312
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL

In article <5608@ssc-bee.ssc-vax.boeing.com> simnet@ssc-vax.boeing.com (Mark R Poulson) writes:
>In article <1992Oct02.194027.19898@bnr.ca>,  (Eric Youngblood) writes:
>> I am looking for anyone who knows how to tune 69-81 firebird/camaro
>> suspensions. The problem I am having is during the first 60 feet of
>> acceleration.  The right rear tire breaks loose while the left rear
>> does not.  I understand that the torque from the engine loads down
>> the left rear wheel and unloads the right wheel reducing its grip.
>
>A very common problem. The things to do would be:
>
>	Remove the rear antisway bar (very important).

	why remove the very thing that can help your problem?  You
can adjust the rear bar's links (down on left, up on right) to create
a static pre-load that will add pressure to your right wheel!

--Ken
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Interactive Systems Corp., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(800) LAI-UNIX x341			much experience			 |
dye@i88.isc.comm						archy	 |
From: enns@waterloo.hp.com (Roger Enns)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: when to shift?
Date: 16 Oct 92 17:09:25 GMT
Article-I.D.: waterloo.Bw84zq.6Ls
Organization: HP Panacom Div Waterloo ON Canada
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6]


 (QXF1@psuvm.psu.edu) wrote:
: Hey everyone, I've always been told shift up early will help to get better
: gas milage.  Some say shift at 2000 rpm, an article in a magazine even said
: at 1500 rpm.  I believe shift up earlier will give better gas economy.  The

In my 1979 RX7, I get substantialy better mileage cruising at
4000 rpm than at 3000.  In town, I never leave 3rd gear.  I don't
shift to fifth unless I am going faster than 60mph.  My point is,
it depends on the engine characteristics.  

--
Roger Enns (enns@waterloo.hp.com) Panacom Automation Division, HP
C-GIIV Dragonfly, 1979 RX7 13B, 1985 Colt
From: neves@aristotle.ils.nwu.edu (David &)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: poor running, esp. when cold
Date: 9 Oct 92 21:53:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: ils.1992Oct9.215338.21227
Organization: The Institute for the Learning Sciences
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

I have an 81 Tercel that sounds horrible when cold.  It makes a
sputtering type sound when at speed, but not when accelerating.  Along
with the sputtering it seems that the car doesn't have as much power
as it should but I can't tell if it is misfiring.  Also, when
sputtering the speed doesn't seem to keep constant.  

The idle is bad when cold.  I took it into 2 places and both said I
needed a $150-$200 tune up.  They didn't see any problem with the
choke and one of the places did $30 worth of carb cleanup (worthless).

When the engine is fully warmed up the sputtering goes away and the
idle is very smooth.  It might just be my imagination but it doesn't
seem to have as much pickup, even when warm.  It has no problem
starting when cold.

I did the tune up myself by replacing the cap/rotor/ignition wires/PCV
value/fuel filter (someone else did the spark plugs) and set the
timing (it was 10 degrees off) but I still have the cold running
problem.  The car does start easier though!

I know I have a small hole somewhere in the exhaust system and was
told that the valve cover gasket might be bad because there is oil in that
area.

Before I talk it into a 3rd (sigh) place I thought I would ask here
for suggestions on what the problem might be.

-Thanks, David

--
neves@ils.nwu.edu
Institute for the Learning Sciences, 1890 Maple, Evanston Il 60201
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist)
Subject: Re: oxygen sensor  !! YES !!
Organization: SSESCO
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 18:24:52 GMT

In article <29360@life.ai.mit.edu> pwu@tang.ai.mit.edu (Peng Wu) writes:
>
>I am very much interested in knowing how the NEW O2 sensor responses to the
>test procedure you used to test the OLD one.  I try to rule out a connector
>problem or other problems that you unintentionally "fixed" when you were
>working on the sensor.

I specifically looked for and tested this issue...  I plugged and unplugged
the OLD sensor many times and made certain that I had the best possible
connection to the sensor wire and to ground when I was taking the readings.

With the input to the computer grounded, the motor idled very well... when
I reconnected the OLD sensor, the idle began to oscillate and roughen within
seconds.  This behavior seemed logical given the erratic readings I was
getting on the voltmeter from the O2 sensor.  I was working at the
sensor end of the wire rather than the computer end.  The sensor had
about a 10" pigtail (single conductor) before it hit a connector.  It was
at this connector that I performed my checks.  The contact inside the
connector looked clean and bright and I scraped the meter probe back
and forth many times to ensure a good connection.

I'm willing to bet my next paycheck that there wasn't an intermittant
connection.

Chris

Chris Elmquist, N0JCF
elmquist@SSESCO.com
73267.2711@Compuserve.com
(612)342-0003@work (8am-5pm CST6CDT)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Subject: paint code help needed
Reply-To: "mike knox" <mike.knox@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 12 Oct 92 18:23:30 EST

Hi:
 
I'm trying to located the paint code number for my vehicle so that I
can order some touch-up paint, but can't seem to find the number!
 
The vehicle is a 1989 GMC S15 Jimmy.
 
I've looked in the door jams, under the hood, against the firewall and
in the glove box. All no good. The only thing that looks close is a sticker
in the glove box that is supposed to be option codes or something. It's
just a *lot* of 4 or 5 digit numbers without explanation.
 
Does anybody know where the paint codes are located, and what type of a
number I should be looking for? It's a two-tone grey and blue color, and
I'm looking for the grey number. GM has too many greys and silvers for
me to "take a guess".
 
Any help would be appreciated.

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mike Knox                  |     Fido: 1:229/15
    Brampton, Ontario          | Internet: mike.knox@canrem.com
    CANADA                     | RelayNet: ->CRS  (Public Key: 22319)
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 * DeLuxe2/386 1.25 #4782 * 
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: gonorv@mist.CS.ORST.EDU (Gonor Vincent Felix)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Noisy suspenstion
Summary: ontrol arm bushings (?)
Date: 12 Oct 92 04:56:33 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Oregon State University, Computer Science Dept.

Greetings 

I have an '84  plymouth tourismo duster that has incredibly noisy front 
suspenstion.  The noise was not audible when I bought it around seven months
ago, but surfaced about a week after I bought it as a very slight squeaeking
whenever I went over a large bump i.e. speed bump.  It has progressed deispite
my attempts to fix it until at present it loudly protests to the slightest 
movement in the suspension.  The local dealer did a lot of head scratching
and then charged me for the can of WD-40 he sprayed on everything that moved
under the car.  I have localized it (I think) to the bushings on the rear of thecontrol arm, but disassembling them revealed no visible wear, and grease and oil
have no effect. The car has ~80,000 miles on it and I have no idea what the 
previous owner did in the way of service.
Please email ANY advice to me.  Thanks in advance

	Vince
     
-- 
Paul M. Mickel				Internet:mickelp@darkstar.oes.orst.edu
Oregon State University                 UUCP: ...hplabs!orstcs!mickelp
Corvallis, OR 97331   USA               #include <stddisclaimer.h>