HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jfh@cs.brown.edu (John F. Hughes)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Newbie question (iceboats!)
Date: 28 Dec 1992 20:29:58 GMT
Organization: Brown University Department of Computer Science
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: euclid.cs.brown.edu


I want to build a RC Iceboat. This should be *lots* easier than a plane,
for a number of reasons. (1) I've built two full-sized iceboats. (2) I've built
lots of models of boats. (3) It doesn't have to fly. 

But I have a problem: control. I basically need two controls: one to
tighten/loosen a string (the "sheet") and one to move the steering blade at the
front of the boat. I figured that a worm drive would probably be OK for the
latter, but it meeds to respond fairly fast. The sheet control can be
moderately slow. How fast is fast? Basically, it should go from one extreme to
the other in about 1/2 - 1 sec. 1 second would be pushing it...

Anyhow, here's my question: about how much will it cost me to do this. Remember
that weight is not a big problem here, so old and clunky stuff will suffice. 
Nor is reliability a big problem. If it craps out on me, I sail up to it on
my (real) iceboat and carry it home. But I do need, at the very least, a way to
xmit two channels of data to the boat, and a way to receive two channels at the
boat and convert them to actions (trim/ease sheet, turn port/starboard). 
I've seen chips (of the Radio Shack sort) that are nominally R/C xmit/rec'v
units, and cost about $5. I assume that lots more needs to be hooked to these
to make them practical. 

So....

Can anyone who is something of an R/C expert give me a hint on (1) how much
this might all cost to do, in a cobbled-up, used-parts, kind of way, and 
(2) how hard it might be to grow my own xmit/rec'v units from these one-chip
devices? We're talking, for those interested, in transmitting across distances
of perhaps 1 mile. 

Given the level of expertise I've seen in this group, e-mail answers seem
most appropriate. I'll read the news regardless, but my e-mail is
jfh@cs.brown.edu. Thanks lots. 

-John
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Pipe Dream as trainer?
From: frank@evax2.engr.arizona.edu (Frank Manning)
Date: 26 Dec 92 16:32:35 MST
Reply-To: frank@evax2.engr.arizona.edu
Distribution: world,local
Organization: University of Arizona, College of Engineering and Mines, Tucson

I'm curious about Byron Pipe Dream models.

As part of a senior-level airplane design course here, it has been proposed to
have students modify and fly Pipe Dreams. The students, most of whom have no
flying experience, would also learn to fly on unmodified Pipe Dreams, which
would use Quadra engines.

Does anybody have experience with Pipe Dreams? Are they suitable as trainers,
especially for students with no experience? How temperamental are Quadra
engines? Do they require any more or less maintenance than average glo engines?
Do they spray oil all over the place like glo engines?

Pipe Dream specs:

           Span:  83 inches
      Wing area:  1080 in^2
   Wing loading:  21 - 30 oz/ft^2 
         Weight:  10 - 14 lb
         Engine:  Quadra BQ 42 CD, 2-stroke, gasoline, magneto ignition
   Engine power:  2.8 Hp
      Structure:  Modular, aluminum tube fuselage, wings/tail bolted on

-- Frank Manning                                   -- And are we gonna get our
-- College of Engineering and Mines                -- pants sued off if a
-- Civil Engineering 100, University of Arizona    -- student sticks their
-- Tucson, AZ  85721  frank@evax2.engr.arizona.edu -- finger in a prop?   :(
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: gallaghe@gdc.com (Robert Gallagher)
Subject: RC Helicopters
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 11:48:02 -0500 (EST)
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Looking for inforamtion on the Schulter Junior 50 tail boom vibration. I 
understand that using the tail boom support from the Champion ( I think
its the 60 size version that closely ressembles the Junior), will reduce the
amount of tail vibration alot.  I have followed all the procedures for balancing
the tail rotor and it appears pretty well balanced.  Any thoughts would be 
appreciated.  Also, other information on the Junior would be great to know
about.  I have really just started to fly my Junior and can hover without 
the aid of training gear so far. To this date no crashes (knock on wood!?!).

Thanks in advance,

Robert T. Gallagher

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: seanp@seanp.btv.ibm.com(Sean Reilly)
Subject: ANABATIC Combat Slope Planes
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 92 18:16:17 GMT
News-Software: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.14c by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers
Reply-To: seanp@seanp.btv.ibm.com(Sean Reilly)
Organization: IBM T. J. Watson Research

I recently saw an advertisement in MAN concerning ANABATIC Combat(?) Slope gliders.
They come in packages of two and are supposedly sturdy enough to knock each other
out of the sky.    Are there any 'rules' for these yet?   Does anyone know if they are as 
sturdy as they say??

Sean P. Reilly                                            |     'Beware of moving BARNS and stationary HORSES...'
Burlington, Vermont                                                                                                          -SPR-    AUG 92.
From: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: Light Covering...
Date: 28 Dec 92 11:56:14 GMT
Organization: Rhein-Neckar-Informationsdienst Viernheim

ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:

>>No !! Don't use tissue like silk or nylon if you'd like to get a light
>>covering. It needs vast amounts of paint to get enough tension and
>>that will make the covering much heavier than any film covering.

>I disagree. Nylon or silk may not be awfully light, but Silkspan is. 
>The amount of dope needed to fill the tissue isn't much and the covering
>adds a huge amount of stiffness to the structure.

Hmm, I didn't find that 'silkspan' in my dictionary, sorry.
Could you explain what the difference is between silk and silkspan ?
Where can I get this stuff ?

>You can get Solarfilm from Indy R/C. Its cheaper than Monokote, something
>like $5 a roll. Problem is that it isn't a film that adds much stiffness 
>to the wing.

Also, it looses tension the more you use it, so I always had to
reshrink it every month or so. And it is very fragile, so not likely for
a rough every-day use.

-- 
  +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
  |   Torsten Leibold, Konrad-Adenauer-Allee 105, 6806 Viernheim, Germany   |
  |  UUCP: torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org    ..!unido!orfeo!rnihd!rnivh!torsten  |
  +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Beginner questions (again!)
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 14:58:58 GMT

In article <1992Dec21.190621.4619@tin.monsanto.com> lesnyd@monsanto.com (Larry E. Snyder) writes:


>You should fly a plane built to FLY, not a plane built to CRASH! A plane
>that is "indestructible" probably needs to be, since its wing loading will
>be high and it will fly HOT. The most fragile plane around, the SIG Kadet
>Senior, is also the easiest to fly. I had never seen one until last summer,
>when a newcomer brought one out. It was barely rolling when it simply lifted
>up off the ground at about 10 mph! And although this guy was a natural flyer,
>within a month he had moved up to a fast low-winger. The Kadet never crashed,
>and this guy never had an instructor. I'm not saying the Kadet is THE way to
>go, I'd probably recommend an Eagle or PT40 with ailerons, but I strongly
>recommend learning on a plane built to FLY, not built to CRASH (I said that
>before, didn't I?).

Oooooohh.. I'll have to agree with this one. I had some stick time on 
Paul Viverito's Kadet Senior and it flew just like a 2 meter glider. 
If I ever get into R/C thats what I would build. He had an Enya .90 FS
in the nose. Neat airplane! I think I could even have landed it.








-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Light Covering...
Date: 23 Dec 92 16:17:49 GMT
Organization: SDRC

Does anyone have any experience building very light HL gliders?
(6 oz. RC)

I was wondering what kind of covering material to use?  I realize
that Monokote is too heavy.  I have used some stuff called
Flite Cote.  It was light, but not very strong.

I have seen ads for Micafilm.  Is it as good as they say it is?

Would tissue and dope be advised?  Any other advice?
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Beginner questions (again!)
Keywords: rc
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1992 14:54:33 GMT

In article <BzH2qr.3IE@news.cso.uiuc.edu> jtg0707@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Jui Tien) writes:

>	1. Among the engine recommendations I received, I get the most recomm.
>	   for O.S. FP , follow by others such as Royal, Magnum...
>	   The one thing that stands out is the fact that there seemed to be
>	   just as many people that are for O.S. as there are people against
>	   such brand as K&B and FOX. In fact, the dislike for either one
>	  of these two brands is a little shocking!
>	   (More like hatred sometimes!) 
>	   Is there a good reason for this? What had either one of these 
>	   two brands did to earn such bad reputation? 
>	   I went down to the store to check out the engines, the K&B and FOX
>	   do look less *polished* than the O.S. engines. Are they really
>	   such bad engines?

My personal experience with Fox and K&B engines has been good,
but I don't have a throttle on my engines. I also haven't tried 
the latest K&B Sportsters.

OS and Enya probably make more refined carbs. I must admit that 
after taking lots of engines apart the OS's look beautiful out-
side _and_ inside.

>	2. Question of durability vs. flyability.
>	   Many people suggested that I should get planes such as U.S. Aircore
>	   or something called *Duraplane* as beginner trainers. While others
>	   suggested Balsa planes such as PT40 and the like. The prevailing
>	   opionion is that Balsa planes fly much better but are very fragile.
>	   The question is: how fragile is the Balsa planes? How much
>	   flyability do I give up by going to the *industructable* planes?

While not as robust as the Aircore airplanes (what is?) the balsa 
planes aren't any more fragile than any other airplanes. They do take
a while to build, though.

(I remember two years ago I built a pair of .09 powered balsa profiles.
I'd forgotten how much of a pain it was to put these things together 
even with the benefit of Hot Stuff. I'll have to start cutting ribs for
that Road Runner soon though 9-) )



-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu (Chris)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: $$$
Date: 2 Jan 1993 03:42:52 -0600
Organization: University of Minnesota, Duluth
NNTP-Posting-Host: ub.d.umn.edu


   What would the minimal cost of building a simple running rc
controlled air plane that would be simple to fly?
A complete utter newbie (me:) wants to know...
Please email me directly.
--
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Chris Busch     cbusch@ub.d.umn.edu =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
 C(o_o))        _                        "The use of COBOL cripples the
   (=)         (_ -|- -|- is the         mind; its teaching should, 
  --|--        language of choice.       therefore, be reguarded as a
   /^\      Protest the use of BASIC!    criminal offense." -E.W. Dijkista
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: petera@bcars630.UUCP (Peter Ashwood-Smith)
Subject: Re: First Trainer Questions
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 13:49:12 GMT

In article <1992Dec20.170241.973@bnr.ca>, martyg@bnr.ca (Martin Gallant) writes:
> 
|> I have narrowed down the engine selection to the OS.40FP (~$70) and the
|> OS.46SF (~$140), the latter strongly recommended by my local hobby shop.
|> Do I need to be messing around with ball-bearing engines for my first
|> plane, or is a plain bushing motor adequate?  I am prepared to spend
|> whatever time is required for break-in on a test bench.
 
   Both are good engines (I own both). Eventually though you will want a 
more powerful engine for an aerobatic trainer and the 46SF is FAR more
powerful. I recommend going directly for the 46SF or at least a 40SF. If
you get the 46SF ABC you may not want to break it in in the trainer
since it will be at 1/2 throttle most of the time.  

|> Coming from an automotive background, I am quite concerned about running
|> an engine without any type of air filtration. 

   I have never used an air filter and my 40SF is now 5 years old and running
strong. I fly off dusty gravel/grass with no problems. But if it bothers you
put a piece of pantyhose over the carb and attach with an O-ring.

   Peter
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: rcb@ncsu.edu (Randy Buckland)
Subject: Engine problems
Organization: North Carolina State University
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1993 15:59:17 GMT

I am currently having engine problems with a repaired Fox 40. The engine
was crashed in such a way that it destroyed the carburator and
sucked a lot of grit into it. I have replaced the carburator and cleaned
the engine out and installed it in a new plane. The problem is that I can't
get it to run for more than about 2 seconds. If I squirt fuel into the air
intake, the engine will start but does not appear to draw any fuel from the
line and just stops after a couple seconds. The lines are clear since with
everything dry, I can blow into the muffler line and hear air coming out
in the carburator. The following are the possible causes I can decide for it.

1. The model is built in such a fashion that the tank is fairly low relative
to the engine. The engine is side mounted with the fuel intake on top and
the intake is level with the top of the tank. Also, the plane is a tail
dragger and that places the tank lower than the engine when on the ground.
I can't get the tank any higher or the engine any lower, do I need a pump?

2. The piston and liner got scratched in the crash by the grit and when I
squirt WD40 into the cylinder and turn the prop, I get a little escaping 
gas as the piston approaches the top. As I loosing so much compression that
the crankcase suction that is supposed to draw fuel in is failing? How can
I test this and what is the solution?

3. I have set the needle valves according to the Fox literature but am
uncertain if they are right. Can someone with a properly adjusted
Fox .40 BB engine measure the amount of exposed thread on both needles
so I can check my setting? also, does the end of you high speed needle
have a bit of metal sticking off of one end or is the end of the needle
flat?

4. Is there any parts on the crankshaft directly below the carburator
that help the fuel draw that might have been damaged in the crash?
If so, how do you remove the bearings and crankshaft to check this?
When I cleaned the engine, I could not find a decent way to remove
these parts without major force being applied.

Any other ideas? or is it time to buy a new engine?
--
Randy Buckland                               "It's hard to work
North Carolina State University               in a group when you're
randy_buckland@ncsu.edu (919) 515-5491        omnipotent"       -- Q
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: Fox vs Supertigre, which do'ya like?
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 14:56:14 GMT

In article <1992Dec9.040003.18059@nevada.edu> duncan@nevada.edu (DUNCAN R MCCOY) writes:

>Partly as a result of this thread, which has been going on for
>a while now, I bought a Fox .40 BB Delux. What actually happened
>was that I called in an order to Tower for, among other stuff, a
>Supertigre GS .40. Just like last year the option was "we'd be
>happy to backorder you one - they'll for sure be in about mid
>December." "No thanks." Because of this thread, I subbed the
>Fox.

>Put the Fox on the test stand last Saturday. Started right up
>and would hold full throttle and good idle after one tank through.
>The carb setup is a little different - good thing to read the
>instructions. Fox has you start the engine at 1/3 throttle, then
>set the low end needle for a 2-cycle, then open up the throttle
>and set the high end needle. I'd never thought to do it that way.

If this is the Fox .40 with the "high back door" its ancestor
is the .36 Combat Special. The Combat Special does have nice 
starting characteristics (it has to, or you lose points on air-
time). It is a nice, strong motor, but no idea how it idles.


Iskandar

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Iskandar Taib                          | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@SILVER.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS                 !
From: dsprouse@n3igw.pgh.pa.us (Dan Sprouse)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Gas Motors
Keywords: OS.12
Date: 26 Dec 92 03:18:26 GMT
Organization: Sprouse Consulting, Oakmont, Pa.

Hello,

	I just bought a Keysho Out Law Rampage (gas power).  I had a few 
questions.  This is my first gas powered truck so I don't know much.

	1.  How do you determine fuel to nitro mixture?
	2.  When you give the truck full power, it goes then when you let go 
            of the trigger it dies, any ideas?  I think it might be the needle
	    valve.

	
							Thanks,
							   Dan Sprouse
==============================================================================
                           Daniel P. Sprouse
  __________          Lower Valley Ambulance Service       -----|-----
  | L.V.A.S.|_o_        Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania        *>=====[_]L) 
  |   151   |---\_                EMT                        --"-"--  
  =(*)-------(*)-'   Internet dsprouse@n3igw.pgh.pa.us                   
==============================================================================
From: rbono@necis.UUCP (Rich)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: MonoKote/SuperMonoKote (was FliteKote<=>MonoKote?)
Date: 30 Dec 92 17:28:57 GMT
Organization: still seeking it

In article <swhite.725657520@convex.com>, swhite@convex.com (Steve Whiteside) wrote:
> 
> 2) I haven't seen any SuperMonoKote around. Is this something that
> went the way of the dodo bird? Is MonoKote really SuperMonoKote in
> disguise?
> 

 This reminded me of a question that I have had for a while now.  No one
seems to be able to answer me so far.... and I don't trust the boyz at one
local Hobby shop, they seem to always want to answer me in any way that will
cause me to spend more money at their shop.

  Q) What is the difference between MonoKote and SuperMonoKote?

  I have a few rolls of each, and I can't really tell any difference in them.
Is this just a marketing term?  Maybe they changed the name at one point and
I have some 'old' rolls?  Or is it that some colors are called 'Super' and
others are simply the 'regular' stuff?

 Either way, I still need to know.  How can I get my plane to fly correctly
if I don't use the proper stuff??? ;-) ;-)


-- 
 /**************************************************************************\
 * Rich Bono                     IMRICH         UUCP:rbono@necis.ma.nec.com * 
 * (508) 635-6300                 NM1D          AMPR: nm1d@nm1d.nh.usa.noam * 
 \**************************************************************************/
From: dqwelch@sgidq4.sdrc.com (Mike Welch)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: FliteKote<=>MonoKote?
Keywords: Glider,Covering
Date: 30 Dec 92 14:00:23 GMT
Organization: SDRC

In article <swhite.725657520@convex.com>, swhite@convex.com (Steve Whiteside) writes:
|> I have just finished up the framework on my GentleLady. I started 
|> looking into covering materials and realized I had some FliteKote
|> left over from another project.  The GentleLady instruction sheet
|> recommends SuperMonoKote as a covering material. 
|> 
|> 1) Is FliteKote and MonoKote about the same when it comes to shrink
|> ability and weight?
|> 
|> 2) I haven't seen any SuperMonoKote around. Is this something that
|> went the way of the dodo bird? Is MonoKote really SuperMonoKote in
|> disguise?
|> 
|> 
|> Any other recommendations about covering the 'Lady?
|> 
|>                 |  The Gentle Lady is almost finished!     
|> \             __|__             /   It's my first RC plane.
|>  \______________|______________/    I can't wait to fly it!
|>                 O
|> Steven Whiteside
  
Congratulations!!  You picked a Great first glider.

I would reccommend that you use the strongest covering for the wing.
Monokote( or Super) is pretty strong.  The wing structure is pretty
flimsy before you cover it.  Do a little test before and after covering
the wing.  You'll be amazed.  I don't think you have to worry about the
extra weight of a heavier material on the wings.  You need the strength
there.

Flite Cote is light and could probably be used to cover the Fuselage.
You don't need anymore stiffness there.

				 Good Luck,

				Mike

******************************************************************************
  Mike Welch                 * "Gun laws go against Darwin's Theory.
  SDRC                       *  Let stupid people kill each other."
  2000 Eastman Drive         * 
  Milford, Ohio 45150        * "Governments should not mandate the
  Tel: (513) 576-2514        *  use of safety belts.  Let Natural
  Email: Mike.Welch@sdrc.com *  Selection work."  - me
******************************************************************************
From: chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Electric starters for airplanes (Built in).
Date: 21 Dec 92 22:16:45 GMT
Reply-To: chuck@drutx.ATT.COM (LucianoC)
Organization: AT&T, Denver, CO

Okay, I want to build a 1/3 scale airplane, and I want it to have a built
in starter motor. The plane has a nine foot wingspan and oodles of room in the
cowl available. I'd like to find an electric starter that will work with
a Super Tigre 4500.

Any Ideas?

Imagine me carrying my plane out to the flight line, placing it on the ground,
hitting a couple of switches on the transimtter (One for the glow plug heat,
one for the starter). When the glow plug heater is turned on it will heat the
glow plug anytime the throttle is below 1/3 and thus stays on. I hit a switch,
heads turn as my plane roars to life (while I'm standing behind it). I taxi out
to the runway and take off.

Wait it gets better.

I take my plane to traffic pattern altitude, set up for a dead stick landing
and kill the engine. I bring it around on final, of course I know I've got
the runway made. As I cross the threshhold I hit a switch, the engine roars
to life and I execute a go around.

Cool huh?

Chuck Luciano
chuck@csn.org