HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: evan@athena.mit.edu (Evan D Matteo)
Subject: Re: The Future of the Bike
Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 18:00:41 GMT

The recent discussion on "the future of the bike" has contained
several interesting speculations on further development of 
bicycles.

I am currently looking for an undergraduate thesis topic (mech E).  
I am looking for inovative (off the wall?) suggestions.  
An ideal topic would involve design of something USEFUL that
is not currently in production, rather than merely a refinement of 
an extant product.  

One suggestion was to design and build a reasonably lightweight 
hydraulic transmission.  I've seen reference to such a device
on the net but I don't remember the specifics. Any information
would be appreciated.

Also, if anyone has an idea what companies might be interested
in providing partial FUNDING (Specialized, Cannondale etc.) or names 
of people with this information, I would be appreciative.


THANKS!

--Evan Matteo

evan@athena.mit.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: curt@mcm.hp.com (Curt Simkins)
Subject: Re: LX DX XT XTR Confusion
Organization: HP Cardiology Business Unit -  McMinville OR
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:57:35 GMT

In article <ILH.93Jan22101223@chicago.lcs.mit.edu>, ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington) writes:
|> In article <C18GsM.E8B@cs.uiuc.edu>
|> tthiel@cs.uiuc.edu (Terry Thiel) writes:
|>    You forgot to mention that LX is not as well finished or durable as DX or XT
|>    either.  Of course if you have an LX bike then thats a strong incentive to
|>    defend it...
|>    -Terry
|> 
|> Terry: ENOUGH! ENOUGH! ENOUGH! ENOUGH! ENOUGH! ENOUGH! ENOUGH! ENOUGH!
|> 
|> I'm really getting tired of your "DX is better than LX because its not
|> painted and because that's what Bridgestone puts on my bicycle"
|> attitude....... 

   STUFF DELETED......
|> 
|> Terry, in case you haven't noticed, because you own a Bridgestone,
|> you're always the first to defend/worship them.  (And, because you own
|> DX, it has the ultimate price/performance tradeoff.)  You'll be happy
|> to know that my wife bought a Bridgestone this fall.  But, alas, it
|> only has an Exage drivetrain.  According to you, Bridgestone doesn't
|> put junk on their bicycles.  According to you LX sucks.  If
|> 
|> 	Exage < LX <<<<<<< DX
|> 
|> than what in the world is Bridgestone doing even messing with anything
|> less than DX.
|> 
|> Sorry, Terry and the rest of you, but I just boiled over.  Wow, I feel
|> a lot better know.
|> --
|> 
|>                                 Lee Hetherington
|>                                 ilh@lcs.mit.edu
  
   Don't feel too bad Lee, I think you just boiled over for a few
   of us..........Well said.

   

   Terry,
 
   It might help if you started using the "Reply" mode instead of the
   "Followup" mode and spare us the redundancy.

   Thanks,
   Curt
From: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Shimano and SunTour freehubs
Date: 25 Jan 1993 15:59:01 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

Jobst Brandt writes:
>Mark Chandler writes:
>> SunTour is coming out with evenly spaced cogsets.  I assume that
>> they'll be changing their shift levers accordingly.
>
>I don't believe there will be any change because looking at the
>control plate in the shift lever, I see uniformly spaced holes.
>.....
>The sprocket spacing of all but the smallest sprocket is uniform
>anyway other than normal tolerances on the order of less than 0.1 mm.

I meassured the spacing in several cassettes and freewheels.  The spacing
between Shimano and Suntour varys by up to 0.4mm (19%) - enough to 
significantly degrade shifting.

Shimano DuraAce 8 speed cassette: 3.0mm (constant)
Shimano Ultegra 8 speed cassette: 3.0mm (constant)
Shimano Deore 7 speed cassette: 3.2mm  (constant)
DuraAce 7 speed freewheel: 3.1mm (constant)
Suntour Superbe Pro freewheel:
    24-21  2.64mm 
    21-19  2.69
    19-17  2.84
    17-15  2.84
    15-14  3.10
    14-13  3.10
 So the spacing gets smaller as the cogs get larger.

Does anyone know/recall what Campy cassette spacing is?

The cogs themselves vary slightly in thickness, but it's less significant.

Regina freewheels also have variable spacing, but I haven't measured it.

Jobst Brandt writes:
>I have been using SunTour New Winner Pro freewheels with both
>Shimano and SunTour derailleurs with no difficulty. 

This works if you're not too picky about shifting quality.
--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
A vacuum is a hell of a lot better than some of the stuff that nature
replaces it with.        -- Tenessee Williams
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: neilf@delfin.com (Neil Frank)
Subject: Re: Loose headset
Organization: Delfin Systems
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:35:45 GMT

rafael@flash.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Ralph Grundler) writes:
: Scot Thorstad (miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu) wrote:
: : 
: : My headset starts getting loose about the end of every month or so.
: : How can I cure this problem?  I ride a lot of stairs and bumps, could
: : this be the problem? Mountain bikes are supposed to be tough, though.
: : Has anyone had any experience with one of those gorilla headlocks?
: 

Try using Locktite (sp?)... I am not sure which color is the stronger, but
I know from experience that it will hold a tight until your ready to clean
it......

-nlf-
-- 
Neil Frank		Delfin Systems		408-748-1200
neilf@delfin.com	Santa Clara, CA.
--              Wisdom is Gained Through Experience,            -- 
--        Experience is Gained Through Error.... "Unknown"      --
From: mack@risc.sps.mot.com (Gregg Mack)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: LOW ROLLING RESISTANCE TIRES
Date: 22 Jan 1993 07:44:10 -0600
Organization: Motorola (Austin,TX)
NNTP-Posting-Host: ome.sps.mot.com

A1WB@UNB.CA (A1WB) writes:

>I'M BUILDING A CAR FOR THE SUPER MILEAGE FUEL ECONOMY COMPETITION
>(ONE OF THOSE LIGHT WEIGHT SPECIALTY SINGLE PASSENGER VEHICLES)
>AND AM LOOKING FOR THE HIGHEST PRESSURE, LOWEST ROLLING RESISTANCE
>BICYCLE TIRE ON THE MARKET.  DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS?

Well, I'm sure that you'll be hearing from both the Michelin and the
Continental camps, so I'll let them argue over this (Pssst....
Michelin Super Compe H.D.)!  ;-)

You might also think about the tube.  I use the Madison Air-Seal latex
innertubes in my racing bike.  They only weigh 70 grams or so, and
suppossedly offer the lowest rolling resistance and better puncture
resistance than butyl tubes.  The only downside is that they lose air
pressure faster than butyl tubes.  The Madisons' suppossedly have a
thin butyl lining on the inside surface to help in this matter.
My tires typically lose 30 psi in about 3 days (don't know if that's
a linear relationship, though).

-- 
Gregg Mack                  ---------- __o       __o       __o       __o
gmack@paceline.sps.mot.com  -------- _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_    _`\<,_
Motorola RISC uProcessors   ------- (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)  (*)/ (*)
Austin, Texas  USA          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: shenry@cs.rice.edu (Sam Henry)
Subject: Re: Re: measuring chain wear? [summary]
Organization: Rice University, Houston
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:11:44 GMT

>pgf@cayman.com (Paul Fox) writes:
>
>>hi -- i once read a simple rule that could be used to determine if
>>your chain needs replacing ...

That's more than 12 1/16" instead of 12".  It means the chain has
"stretched".  That is, the accumulated wear in the bushings and pins
in the links of the chain has put enough slack into the whole chain
that is apparently longer.  This accumulated wear puts the links out
of synch with the chainwheels and cogs and will wear them, too.

-- 
sam henry <shenry@rice.edu>
Wanna ride?
From: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Spoke Tension by hand
Date: 21 Jan 93 13:51:14 GMT
Reply-To: whalen@starch.enet.dec.com (Rich Whalen)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Shrewsbury, MA


In article <1jlnp2INNebi@hpscit.sc.hp.com>, tim@computer.bri.hp.com (Tim
Phipps) writes:
|>From: tim@computer.bri.hp.com (Tim Phipps)
|>Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
|>Subject: Re: Spoke Tension by hand
|>Date: 21 Jan 1993 08:44:18 GMT
|>Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Computer Peripherals Division, Bristol, UK
|>Reply-To: tim%hpcpbla.bri.hp.com@hplb.hpl.hp.com
|>
|>: Huh?  I thought the idea of cross spoking is that the spokes touch.
|>: Are you talking about radial spoking?  
|>
|>No, but most cross spoked wheels have the outside spokes passing on the
|>inside of the inside spokes at the last crossing point before the rim, at
|>the
|>other two (maybe less) cross points nearer the hub the outside spokes stay
|>on
|>the outside.

The crossing on the inside by the outside spokes is called "lacing".  From
what I've read is helps support the other spokes.  It probably serves to
transfer sideways load from one spoke to another and therefore distributing
it better over the entire wheel.  If you look at a "standard" 3-cross wheel
you'll see that the two spokes that are laced at the outer most crossing
are joined to the rim quite some distance from each other.

|>
|>I don't know why they do this, it adds work to building a rim, you have to
|>bend the spokes and you can never get them straight again, you can't judge
|>tension by plucking and if a spoke breaks the one it crosses goes slack as
|>well.
|>
|>Cheers,
|>Phippo the Hippo.
|>

------------------------------------------------------
Rich Whalen

You don't know where these bits have been!
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: LX DX XT XTR Confusion
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 93 07:13:41 GMT

In article <2B5D9680.3653@news.service.uci.edu> schwarz@nucleus.ps.uci.edu (Randy Schwarz) writes:
>Shimano did a confusing thing this year. they reorganized the groupos.
>in 92 LX sucked. This year the LX groupo is a nice set of components.

what's bad about the '92 LX group?  is it related to durability or
to function?

-teddy
From: dodd@mycenae.cchem.berkeley.edu (Lawrence R. Dodd)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Demise of wool winter jerseys?
Date: 25 Jan 93 05:16:48
Organization: Dept of Chemical Engineering, Polytechnic Univ, NY, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: mycenae.cchem.berkeley.edu
In-reply-to: mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu's message of Mon, 25 Jan 1993 05:02:28 GMT


>>>>> "Michael" == Michael R. Volow <mvolo@ecsvax.uncecs.edu> writes:


  Michael> Is the wool winter jersey dead. Here, in the home of Performance,
  Michael> they had a few long sleeve winter jerseys, but in dark colors. Not
  Michael> too visible ...  But I sure would like to get a light colored, long
  Michael> sleeve wool jersey. Anyone know where?

On a related note, I was shopping for a winter jacket this weekend and I was
amazed by (1) the prices and (2) the lack of visible colors.  

What is it with every manufacturer making its jackets and everything else
almost entirely black?  Now I understand the principles of radiative heat
transfer with regard to black bodies, but I would prefer to have a jacket that
is bright fluorescent yellow like my wind-breaker so that cars will see me
prior to slamming into me.  Does anyone out there know the reason for the
prevalence of dark winter apparel?

Larry
dodd@roebling.poly.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: Richard_Hennick@mindlink.bc.ca (Richard Hennick)
Subject: Re: Removing cranks
Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 05:50:02 GMT

> Jens Kr. Kirkeb writes:
>
> Msg-ID: <Orakel.64@sarpih.no>
>
> How to I remove a crank without destroying anything?  The crank fits on a
> square, and is pressed on by tightening of a nut.  Now; to get it off, you
> should presumably remove the nut, and then pull the crank off.  Doing this
> seems to bend the (spokes?) that hold the chainrings.  Any tips anyone?


Yes, definitely remove the nut first.  :-)

The inside of the crank should be threaded as well, so that a crank-removal
tool can be screwed in.  This has a bolt inside it which is then turned to
bear on the end of the crank shaft (or axle), in effect "pushing" the crank
off rather than "pulling" it.

(No big semantic arguments from the nitpickers, please; the removal is done
by putting the tool into compression rather than tension, n'est-ce pas?)

--

                         0
            ___    >%  / \_
           / 0 \    |_=\__\
          |  O=_|   |/ \ |/\_%<       Richard_Hennick@mindlink.bc.ca
           -(*)----(*)---' (*)        (giant/axiom)

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Subject: Re: HELP PEDAL CONFUSION
Reply-To: paynter@bnr.ca (Stuart Paynter)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 17:46:53 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.084631.3271@peanut>, grubisichjas@bvc.edu writes:
|> Pedal Question-
|> 
|>       I have been considering adding clipless pedals to my Trek 970.  Yet I 
|> am confused to wich brand to purchase.  What do you recomend?

If you go for SPDs, I advocate buying the M525s rather than the M737s.  The
differences in ease of entry diminsh with pratice.  Take the extra money
you save buying 525s and put it into a good pair of shoes.

Cheers...Stu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: markm@iris.polymer.uakron.edu (Mark Alan Matties)
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Organization: Institute of Polymer Science, University of Akron
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 07:51:49 GMT

In article <68840001@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM>, eisele@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Jon Eisele) writes:
|> > I liked the ease and effectiveness of WD-40.  Anybody know where this
|> > guy is coming from in warning us off of it?
|> WD-40 seems to attract and hold dirt.  Also, you still need to apply
|> some other lubricant as WD-40 won't last long (especially if it rains).
|> 
|> Jon

what about wd40 as a cleaning agent then a "real" grease to lube the chain?

msquared

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
mark alan matties			u of akron
markm@iris.polymer.uakron.edu		dept of polymer science
"aoibheann beatha an scola/ire"		akron, ohio, usa
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 19:29:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Spoke Tension by hand
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech


Robert Perkins writes:

> I'm starting to rebuild/dish/true my wheels on my road and
> mountain bike.  How do you know when you have enough tension on
> the spokes?

There is a book on this subject that describes the procedure for
arriving at optimal spoke tension without the aid of any instrument.
In fact, this is the only way it can be determined.  A tensiometer
can subsequently be used to build other wheels to this same tension
but it must be manually determined first.  You can always read
about it at your bike shop without buying the book, but there are
other things that are worth your time there too.

> How does one know when a spoke is overtightened (besides it
> ripping out of the rim at high speed)?

Unless you have a rim that is not worth riding because it is too
fragile at the spoke supports, you cannot tighten spokes to the
point where they pull out of the rim.  You can't even do that
manually with a tight wheel.  If the rim were so weak that this were
possible, it would soon have fatigue cracks around the spoke holes
in use.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: sjm3@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SALEM JON MAZZAWY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: ???Pedros???
Date: 23 Jan 93 04:49:51 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

Let me just say:
    Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil+food coloring=Pedros Syn lube
This has been tested.   The Mobil brand is MUCH cheaper.
                                Salem
From: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Selle Italia Flite saddle
Date: 27 Jan 1993 18:45:49 GMT
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

Larry Denys writes:
>Chris Moll writes:
>|>A 150lb. friend had his Flite bottom out after a month or so of riding.
>|>So I sold mine to another, 160lb. friend :-)
>
>  I would like to know if this was road or mountain riding, and in 
>what weather conditions.  Mine has been used for almost four thousand
>miles on the road and its still fine.  I weigh 150 lbs.

This was on a road bike, in good weather conditions.  There's nothing 
unusual about his riding style.

When you perform tests-to-failure, you tend to see a wide range of
failure points.

Since saddle failure represents about the least dangerous
or even obnoxious form of component failure you can have on a bike
(you ride home standing), I don't think it's all that unreasonable
to gamble that you'll be on the better side of the failure curve
 - provided you can afford the expense.

Titanium stem bolts/quick releases, on the other hand...

--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
A vacuum is a hell of a lot better than some of the stuff that nature
replaces it with.        -- Tenessee Williams
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam)
Subject: Re: Non-cartridge hubs (was LX DX XT XTR Confusion)
Reply-To: Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com
Organization: Happy Man Corp., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:28:06 GMT

In <1993Jan24.211813.15255@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu> haker@whitewater.chem.wisc.edu (Michael Haker) writes:

>My questions: Are there any non-cartridge mountain bike hubs out there  
>which would be compatible with a shimano freewheel?  

Any threaded hub will take a freewheel with the same thread
standard, so it's really a question of the other specifications
-- spacing, width, holes, etc.  I'd expect you could find
suitable hubs, but lots of shops have stopped carrying good
quality freewheel hubs with loose bearings.

>Can you still buy  
>Shimano freewheels?  

It's getting hard to find high-quality freewheels, but you can
still get them.

>Is there anything special about Hyperglide compatible  
>derailleurs that require them to be used with hyperglide gears?  Or can  
>one rebuild a cartridge hub, and how hard is it (probably not as simple as  
>getting a bag of bearings and some grease)?

It's simpler but harder -- all you usually need to do is take out
the axle and pull the cartridges whole then replace them with new
ones.  Simple, in that you only replace 2 parts instead of two
dozen, but hard if you aren't used to pulling and pressing
cartridge bearings.  Once you get the hang of it, bearing
replacement can be pretty quick -- I've done it in under 10
minutes on the trail.
-- 
 Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com
Organization: University of Central Florida--Computer Services
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 09:01:21 EST
From: <FDHEIENO@UCF1VM.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Locking into Time pedals

I recently upgraded to '91 Time criterium pedals and racing shoes.  The problem
is locking into them!  It mabe just me but I'm having a devil of a "time"
getting a quick lock-in.  Any suggestions??  Oh, the cleats are the newer
small style.

Many thanks!
Dennis Weeks
dfw@physics.ucf.edu
From: ohlwiler@doc.bmd.trw.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Tire width question
Date: 21 Jan 93 12:19:21 MST

In article <1993Jan21.170825.24144@novell.com>, 
chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler) writes:
> In article <1993Jan21.152633.18381@mcc.com> spencer@mcc.com (Steve Spencer) writes:
>>I recently purchased a touring bike and I would like to install wider tires on it. 
>>It currently has 27x1 inch tires on Mavic MA40 rims. What is the widest tire that
>>will fit on this rim? I would like to put Michelin Hi Lite touring tires (27x1 3/8)
>>on it. 
> 
> Let's put it this way, "How much clearance do your frame and brakes have?"
> You can run 700x45C tires on these w/o problems (Bruce Gordon has been selling
> bikes with this combination for years).  Mountain bikes used very fat (2"+)
> tires on these rims also.  The Hi-Lite Tours (good tires, by the way) will
> be no problem.

Mark has been a source of valuable information in the past.  In this instance
his experiences do not mirror mine.  I had a Hi-Lite Tour casing blow on our
tandem.  The tire had about 800 miles on it.  The tread was still good.  Upon
inspection I noticed that the rim was cutting into the casing.  The rim was a
Sun CRT-16.  On the other tire the same thing was happening.  On my commuter I
use Wolber M59 rims, the same thing was happening.  Damn, other than this
problem I thought too that it was a fine tire, cheap and a kevlar bead.  I now
use Continental Top Touring Tires.  The tread is slightly more aggressive.  The
recommended pressure is 70 psi vs. 85 psi for the Hi-Lite Tour.  It also lacks
a kevlar bead.  The Continental has very strong sidewalls and wears like iron. 
I now run these on both the tandem and my commuter and carry a Hi-Lite Tour for
a spare, the best of both worlds.

Scott_Ohlwiler@oz.bmd.trw.com
From: chris@carnival.lbl.gov (Chris Moll)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Selle Italia Flite saddle
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:36:28 GMT
Article-I.D.: overload.1k3lpsINNa1q
Distribution: world
Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, California
NNTP-Posting-Host: carnival.lbl.gov

Larry Denys writes:
>  I think most of the people that post about bad experiences with the
>Flite should also post how much they weigh.  Obviously light weight equip-
>ment like the Flite is not meant for everybody.  
>...
>you have to realize a lot of this equipment is great for a hundred and fifty
>pound rider, but just is not designed to last under a rider that weights
>fify pounds more.

A 150lb. friend had his Flite bottom out after a month or so of riding.
So I sold mine to another, 160lb. friend :-)

--
Chris Moll                       (510)486-7891
---
A vacuum is a hell of a lot better than some of the stuff that nature
replaces it with.        -- Tenessee Williams
From: jwgst2+@pitt.edu (James W Gourgoutis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: WD-40 To Clean Chains???
Date: 28 Jan 93 18:38:27 GMT
Organization: University of Pittsburgh

In article <1k7d0pINNpqq@shelley.u.washington.edu> whit@carson.u.washington.edu (John Whitmore) writes:
>
>	The idea of reapplying 'lubricant' before every ride
>and anytime the chain becomes wet (read: after every ride) leaves
>me unsatisfied...  

	And we ALL know that you're NEVER supposed to relube a dirty chain!
This just drives the grit into the rollers, and accelerates wear!  I know, it
happened to me, back in the days when I used motor oil as a lube.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
James Gourgoutis       				   
Mechanical Engineering                                O   
University of Pittsburgh                           _ /__,     
e-mail me at:  JWGST2@unixd.cis.pitt.edu          (_) /(_) 
	       or JWGST2@vms.cis.pitt.edu
Thanks!           			   "Why am I so late?  It took me 
					    25 minutes to decide which bike
					    to ride!"--me. 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-       
--