HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: mal@hobbes.genrad.com (Mike A. Long)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: request - Phoenix area brewpubs?
Date: 11 Jan 1993 14:42:35 -0500
Organization: GenRad, Inc.
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: hobbes.genrad.com

I'll be visiting Phoenix the first weekend of February (4-7).  If
anyone has checked out the brewpubs there, and can provide inputs, it
would be appreciated.

In the past I have visited Bandersnatch's (in Tempe near ASU) and 
Crazy Ed's Satisfied Frog (in Cave Creek).

I'm looking for new and interesting stuff....

So far, Bandersnatch's was great, Crazy Ed's was only so-so.


-- 

#include "~/.sig/witty_sig.h"
Mike Long		mal@genrad.com
(508) 369-4400 x3023	Genrad, Inc.	Concord,Ma 01742 USA
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: sm@jyu.fi (Seismo Malm)
Subject: Re: Make you go blind? (was: Re: homebrew cop tv)
Organization: University of Jyvaskyla, Finland
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 09:56:10 GMT

In article <Jan.5.23.38.56.1993.26129@pilot.njin.net> pfaffman@pilot.njin.net (Jay Pfaffman) writes:
>Excuse me, but how can one produce poison by distilling beer?  It
>seems that by distilling all you can get it higher concentrations of
>*something* & chances are that it'll be ethanol.
>
>-- 
>Jay Pfaffman, Computer Coordinator        pfaffman@des.edu
>Dwight-Englewood School, 315 E. Palisade Ave.                      
>Englewood, NJ  07631-0489                 201-569-9500
>pfaffman@pilot.njin.net if des crashes . . .

The only chance of producing enough methanol from othervice ok
beer, is distilling a large amount (100 l ?) and drinking the first
few desilitres of distillate. Situation is somewhat different if
there is a bacterical contamination in the beer.

seismo



-- 
sm@tukki.jyu.fi  (seismo malm)      finger for pgp 2.1 public key


Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White)
Subject: Re: dark beer
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1993 18:38:37 GMT
Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: IBM Rochester

In article <1ikdslINNr82@hp-col.col.hp.com>, rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) writes:

|> > Now if I can figure out why my pale ale is so dark when I only used chrystal malt
|> > (40 degrees L) and some light dry malt extract.
|> 
|> Probably because of excessive heat in your boil, causing
|> caramelization.  A good, rolling boil is necessary for good
|> hop utilization, but don't overdo it.  Also, you may be boiling
|> it too long - extracts need about 60 minutes.  If you are boiling
|> longer this may be the cause.
|> 
|> Rick


Those are good things to think about.  I boiled for 60 minutes keeping it
to a nice easy rolling boil.  I believe that my problem is that I didn't
really know what color this pale ale was supposed to be.  I racked it last
night and noticed that it is lightening up a bit.  I'll try not to worry
about it.

For those interested the recipe I followed was...

Pale White Ale
==============
1 lb crystal malt 40 degrees cracked and steeped in 2.5 gallons water.
Remove grains and add
2 lbs dry malt extract (light)
3.3 lb can of hopped amber malt extract (Hambleton Bard)
1 tsp bullion hops for boil
1 tsp irish moss

boil for 50 minutes and then add
1/2 oz hallertaur hops

boil for 10 minutes and add to 3 gallons preboiled and cooled water
pitched Whitbread Ale Yeast (dry)

When racking to secondary add
1 oz cascade hops
1/3 cups oak chips (boiled a little to kill little beasties)

Probably won't win any awards, but hey, why worry.

Cheers!
 
-- 

James White
From: YATES@MAINE.MAINE.EDU (Martin Yates)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Grolsch/Fisher Alsace Bottles
Date: 11 Jan 93 15:24:41 GMT
Organization: University of Maine System

I'm brand new to this world of home brewing and am still reading myself
and collecting equiptment.  I have inherited a collection of Grolsch
and Fisher Alsace bottles (the ones with ceramic stoppers, rubber washers,
and metal clamps.)  I like the idea of using these bottles but am concerned
about sanitation, proper sealing, etc.  Does anyone have any experience
with these bottles?

Thanks in advance,
Martin Yates
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: atl@suzuki.kpc.com (Drew Lynch)
Subject: Re: propane burners
Keywords: propane
Organization: Kubota Pacific Computer
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 19:24:41 GMT

In article <1694@tecsun1.tec.army.mil>, blyler@tecsun1.tec.army.mil (Todd Blyler) writes:
|> 
|> 
|> 	I am considering buying a propane burner for boiling etc. My
|> question is how many BTU's do I want? I can get 135,000 or 200,000 for
|> $65 and $43 respectively. I thought the 200 was a better deal but is
|> it going to be difficult to control?
|> 
|> 

Todd,
  I have a 155,000 BTU King Kooker that I bought at my local Brewshop
for about $75. I shopped around a good deal before purchasing it and
am very happy with the results.  There were several criteria for the
selection:

	1) Total heat output
	2) Controllability
	3) Cost

  First off, eliminate cost.  Everything I looked at was between $50
and $100, unless it was in some sort of elegant stand, or *very*
cheaply made.

  The main tradeoff is between total output and controllability.  The
most controllable burners I found were stove like (50-200 individual
small flames) with a max output of around 30k-50k btu.  I decided that
this was insufficient for my needs.  I also saw a number of "cajun
cookers" that basically have a gas jet in a vertical 2" diameter pipe,
producing a single, very tall flame. These had the highest output,
about 200k btu, but were very nearly on/off devices. From a friend's
experience, these also are very inefficient at the lower settings.

  The king kooker that I finally decided on has two main features. It
has a compromise between the two burner types, with about 16
individual flames generated by a fairly crude "burner".  It also has
an adjustment knob on the regulator rather than a small valve at the
base of the burner.  The knob is a couple of turns from fully closed
to fully open, rather than the 1/4 turn on the small valves.  With
this set up I have been able to make small adjustments in mash
temperature (2-5 degrees) accurately, or boil large quantities of
water or wort rapidly.  It comes mounted in a sturdy iron stand about
18" tall.

  Drew

-- 
+------------------------------+ Andrew Lynch, atl@kpc.com
| Congratulations, Bill and Al | Kubota Pacific Computer Inc. Santa Clara, Ca.
| Now, don't screw it up!      | (408)748-6345
+------------------------------+ Disclaimer: This is me, not them.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: fortner@hal.eng.ufl.edu (Dave Fortner)
Subject: Re: Source:  Where to get a large kettle?
Organization: University of Florida
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 93 12:17:15 GMT

In article <1993Jan8.191249.7746@PacBell.COM> smmyers@foghorn.srv.pacbell.com (Sean Myers) writes:
>In article <C0JrH0.Kvs@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu>, trwagner@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (Me!! Ted.) writes:
>|> 
>|> 	Where can one get a large enough kettle to brew a 5 gallon
>|> batch of mead/brew?  I have tried local stores.  I have seen a
>|> few 23 quart kettles and pots around my little city.  However,
>|> that only leaves about 3/4 of a gallon of safety.  (5.75 gal cap.).
>|> 	What is a safe size kettle for a 5 gallon batch?  Should
>|> I go ahead and fork over $30 for a 23 gal. Stainless kettle?  Or,
>|> hold out and try to find a canning kettle?  (And,where does one
>|> aquire one in a reasonable amount of time (2-3 weeks)?
>
>
>     Only $30 for a 23 quart stainless steel kettle ????  Here in the San
>Francisco bay area, I've only seen them for over $100.
>
>     Am I just looking in all the wrong places ???
>
Bass Pro Shop carrys large kettles at a fairly reasonable price. I don't
have thier catalog here with me so I can't tell you exactly how much they
run but I am sure that thier more than $30. If you are interested in
calling Bass Pro thier number is 1-800-BASS-PRO. They also have a 
special deal with FedEx, you can have them ship the order 2nd day air
for just $2 more than ground transportation.

Dave Fortner
Fortner-D@3mail.ksc.nasa.gov

Disclaimer: I AIN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR NOTHIN'
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: dmm0t@rincewind.mech.virginia.edu (David Meyer)
Subject: racking mead...when?
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1993 17:46:40 GMT


What is the proper timing for racking a mead off to a secondary.  I've
gathered from several sources that I should let the mead ferment
pretty much to completion in the primary, rack it off to a
secondary until it clears, at which point I bottle.

Do I have this right?  What kind of time frame am I looking at for the
mead to clear?  It's a plain mead, 15lb of honey in 5 gallons.  Also,
what exactly is happening while the mead is clearing - is it just
spent yeast falling to the bottom, or is more happening?

		Thanks,
			Dave

-- 
David M. Meyer                             Mechanical & Aerospace Engineering
dmm0t@rincewind.mech.virginia.edu          University of Virginia
NeXTmail ok
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: focbjel@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov (CHRIS BJELICA)
Subject: My second batch - maybe
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center
Date:  4 Jan 1993 08:39 EST  

I think I may have "killed" my yeast before letting the wort
cool down on my secon batch - a dark ale.  After I mixed
the hot wort with the cold water, it was at about 84 degrees.
I let it sit in my 63 degree basement for 2 hours, then I
pitched my yeast.

Anyway, this is day 3 without any activity in my air lock.

Now that it has cooled down, should I pick up another package of
yeast on the way home and toss it in?  Maybe make a yeast starter?
and what will the "dead" yeast do to my brew?

Or should I dump it and chaulk this one up to experience.  (I
can't relax, I have to worry).

Chris
cr829@cleveland.freenet
      or
focbjel@lims02.lerc.nasa.gov
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Trisodiumphosphate (TSP)
Date: 12 Jan 93 02:13:11 GMT
Article-I.D.: verdix.9519
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <HAK-110193161757@fp1-cc-21.uoregon.edu> HAK@oregon.uoregon.edu writes:
> [deletia]
>Is this the same TSP that painters use (ie. can I buy the stuff at the
>hardware store?) 

Yes.  That's about all I know about it.

>Is there something better than either of these chemicals for sanitizing
>fementers and bottles, etc?

Iodophor (an iodine and phosphoric acid solution) is a good sanitizing
agent, and it doesn't require a rinse.  I was seriously looking into
switching from bleach because I know it is only a matter of time
before I bleach myself, my clothes, my wife, or my carpet.  But I got
cold feet after reading some postings here to the effect that iodophor
turns plastic into cheese.

Would you mind posting a summary of what you find out?

--mark
From: gsw@thebrewery.EBay.Sun.COM (Greg Winters)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: bottle fillers
Date: 7 Jan 93 15:21:05 GMT
Reply-To: gsw@thebrewery.EBay.Sun.COM
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
NNTP-Posting-Host: thebrewery.ebay.sun.com

In article 778@miki.pictel.com, hamilton@miki.pictel.com (Charlie Hamilton) writes:
>
> Stuff on bottle fillers - editied for quick reading...

>3) No valve filler - This is my new favorite. Same as 1 & 2, except there is
>   no valve on the end, and you regulate the flow by crimping the flexible
>   plastic tubing connected to the hard plastic tubing. This allows you to
>   fill the bottle as full as you like.


I use the same as #3 above, but installed a plastic shut-off valve to the
end of the flexible tubing and attached a tube of 10" or so long which goes
into the bottom of the bottle. Very easy to shut off and get perfect fill
with very little practice. Very cheap and you can take a break if the phone
rings...

Greg
From: mark@verdix.com (Mark Lundquist)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: Racking to Secondary
Date: 10 Jan 93 16:26:51 GMT
Organization: Verdix Western Operations, Aloha  OR

In article <726512417.AA00000@blkcat.UUCP> Polly.Goldman@p2.f615.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Polly Goldman) writes:
>One suggestion for those of you who aren't sure that there's any point to
 racking to a secondary fermenter----
 
 Taste your trub when you finally do get your beer off it.
 
 If you like the taste of it, then you probably don't need to worry about its
 flavor transferring to your beer.  
 
 I thought it was one of the nastiest substances I have tasted.  Needless to say,
 I rack to a secondary fermenter.
>


Polly --

I brewed yesterday and thought of your article.  So, I did taste the
trub after racking (to the "primary"!) six hours after pitching.

Yuck.

We may disagree about single- vs. two-stage fermenting, but not about
the flavor qualities of trub.  Bleaah!  That maxxed out *my*
disgusto-meter.
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: econrad@world.std.com (Cromwell)
Subject: Racking to a secondary
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 18:49:49 GMT

What are the benefits of racking an ale or stout to a secondary carboy 
before bottling?

I think Papazian mentioned that it was important to get the beer off the
trub as soon as possible to avoid the trub breaking down and reentering
the beer, but it seems like this wouldn't happen with a quick ale (~2 
week primary ferment, then bottle).

I ask because my Colossal Stout just finished its fermenting eruptions,
and I was going to rack it to a secondary for a week before bottling.
Then I thought 'Why bother?'  This stuff is black as night, so clarity
is not an issue.

                           ...Eric
-- 
* Eric Conrad              ____/|             "Ah, now we're seeing the       *
*                          \ o.O|   ACK!       violence inherent in the       *
* econrad@world.std.com     =(_)=  THPHTH!     system!"                       *
*                             U                                               *
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: totty@flute.cs.uiuc.edu (Brian Totty)
Subject: ??? Beginner Pseudo-Lager Advice Query ???
Organization: Picasso Group, DCS, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1993 22:15:03 GMT

	I am a beginning (extract & specialty grain) homebrewer and am
	beginning to think about trying to make a quasi-lager.  I say
	quasi-lager, because my Hunter refrigerator thermostat only goes
	down to 40 degrees F.

	I was under the assumption that long-term lagering required
	temperatures very close to freezing.

	(1) Is there anyone with lagering experience who can tell me whether
	    or not the 40 degree temperature point will be a problem?
	(2) What books are recommended for brewing homebrewed lagers (I
	    only have the Papazian book, and it focuses pretty heavily
	    on ales, if I remember correctly)?
	(3) If people could email me any extract recipes for lagers they
	    like, I would greatly appreciate it!
	(4) Any general advice, caveats, etc. would also be appreciated

						Thanks Very Much,


						--- Bri

   /                       Brian Totty             o o
  /__  __  o     Department of Computer Science     o  
 /  / /   /          1304 W. Springfield Ave       \_/  "We have corn in
/__/ /   /               Urbana, IL 61801                Massachusetts too!"
Gradual Student         totty@cs.uiuc.edu
From: walker@main.mndly.umn.edu (TIM WALKER)
Subject: Re: KETTLE MASHING
Organization: the Minnesota Daily (U of MN Student Newspaper)
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 16:15:50 GMT

In article <C0Fu2I.In7@ddsw1.mcs.com> arf@ddsw1.MCS.COM (Jack Schmidling) writes:


>This article was rejected by Zymurgy's editorial department for some
>obscure reason, so I will post it here.

> 
>                           KETTLE MASHING
> 
>                          By Jack Schmidling

(Most of article deleted, save for the excerpt below.) 

Jack, I think I found the "obscure reason." It's this paragraph you wrote:

> 
> All the parts are available at a good hardware store.  For 
> those not inclined to hunt down the parts, a complete kit is 
> available from the author.
>

Personally, if I were an editor at Zymurgy, I would have run your piece, but 
I would have charged you full advertising rates for it. (Tim W.)
From: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: bottle fillers
Date: 7 Jan 93 23:22:34 GMT
Reply-To: feldman@hal9k.cxo.dec.com (james feldman)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation

In article <1993Jan6.192150.778@miki.pictel.com>, hamilton@miki.pictel.com (Charlie Hamilton) writes:
|>2) Pressure valve filler - This is similar to #1 above, except that the valve
|>   is closed by the pressure of the beer in the tube above. You open the valve
|>   by pressing the valve against the bottom of the bottle, but it requires
|>   much less pressure than the spring valve, and once it's started, you don't
|>   have to keep pressing. Otherwise it's the same as #1. The one I had used
|>   to piss beer all over the kitchen occasionally, and finally broke.
I've been using this one with no prob's.  I also have a locking hose clamp
on the rubber tubing for interuptions.  It's simple and easy to clean
completely.  I've been told it's slower than the brass one, but so far, I'm
doing 5 gal. batches, and it doesn't take that long.  As cheap as they are, you
could buy 4-5 for the cost of Phil's Philler(sp?)

--
Jim Feldman                         || This space for lease, contact your
Digital Equipment Corp              || Digital Sales Rep.
CSC/Colorado Springs                || 

My opinions are my own and in no way reflect Digital's POV (unless they're
charging somebody for me to give them).
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: hrad@ellis.uchicago.edu (Vince Hradil)
Subject: Re: easy specific gravity? == refractometer
Reply-To: hrad@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 00:00:00 GMT

In article <1993Jan11.223044.15250@twisto.eng.hou.compaq.com> costley@solo.eng.hou.compaq.com (Brett Costley) writes:
>Over Christmas break I visited the biology lab where my sister works.  She
>was mixing up some salt water for some of her sea anemones.  To check if 
>she had the right salinity she used this nifty little device.  I checked
>it out and noticed that it read both salinity and specific gravity.  It
>was basically just a tube with a eyepiece on one end and a plastic part
>one the other where you just sprinkled a few drops of the water.  You 
>then looked through the eyepiece and an easy to read line would tell you
>the salinity/specific gravity.  I don't know how much one would cost or 
>even if the thing would actually work with wort/beer or not but it would
>certainly be a lot easier to use than the cylinder and float.  I 
>unfortunately cannot borrow one from her to try it out with beer since 
>she lives 900 miles away.  I could see if she can find out how much they 
>cost and if she could get me one.  Has anyone ever seen anything like this
>before?
>

Probably a refractometer.  That is, it measures refractive
index of a solution.  The higher the concentration, the more
a solution will refract.  These instruments are very
convenient and accurate.  They are also fairly expensive.
My Cole-Parmer catalog has them for around $200.

Vince
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
From: don@tellabs.com (Donald Leonard)
Subject: Re: 2nd beginner help request
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 18:57:45 GMT


My second request prompted a flurry of responses. Many thanks to
those of you who took the time to send me beginners.Z

I'm one of those folks who always wanted to brew but never
did. Last week I had pleasure of trying a friends "homebrew". He
had several different kinds... an ale, a stout, and a wheat
(weiss?sp) beer. All were excellent... especially the ale.
I have a lot of reading to do before I'm ready. 

thanks again!
don
-- 

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Donald T. Leonard	|Honda Sabre	| "Bumpy trails? 
don@tellabs.com		|		|  Don't get mad get rad!"
..!uunet!tellab5!don	|Indy 650	|
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: davidp@snoopy.ds.boeing.com (David P. Peden)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Laaglander Dry Malt Results
Date: 5 Jan 93 21:38:28 GMT
Organization: Avionics Integration, Boeing Defense & Space, Seattle


Thought I would provide an update to the Laaglander Dry Malt
problem.  I brewed a 2 consecutive batches that finished at 
1.030, the first I gave up on and bottled, the second I 
talked to my Homebrew shop proprietor and he called Laaglander
. they said that Laaglander is too "pure" (complex sugars ??) to
be used by itself and is designed to be added to malt extract. They
sugested Yeast energizer. I repitched with Doric Yeast and addded 
yeast energizer, 3 weeks later fermentation has stopped at 1.008 !!
Total time of fermentation was about a month. Have not tasted the 
finished product yet but the samples tasted during bottling are
encouraging.  Oh well I only have another 48 pounds to use up.
Next time I'll try M & F...

+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
|   David Peden                    at davidp@woodstock.ds.boeing.com |
|   Boeing Defense & Space Group                                     |
|   Seattle,WA                        Tail Hook Ale Brewing Co.  :)  | 
+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Subject: Re: racking mead...when?
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 93 00:05:28 EDT
Organization: 5 Sigma Software
Reply-To: joseph@joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us
X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.5v5


In article <1993Jan4.174640.15901@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> (rec.crafts.brewing), dmm0t@rincewind.mech.virginia.edu (David Meyer) writes:
) 
) What is the proper timing for racking a mead off to a secondary.  I've
) gathered from several sources that I should let the mead ferment
) pretty much to completion in the primary, rack it off to a
) secondary until it clears, at which point I bottle.

You may want to rack it a third time after it appears clear.  It will
become brilliant after a few more weeks/months.

) Do I have this right?  What kind of time frame am I looking at for the
) mead to clear?  It's a plain mead, 15lb of honey in 5 gallons.  Also,
) what exactly is happening while the mead is clearing - is it just
) spent yeast falling to the bottom, or is more happening?

Yeast and protein are falling to the bottom, while a small amount
of live yeast continues to work on the mead.  You can figure a few
weeks from the time that visible fermentation is largely over before
the mead is really clear.  If fermentation gets stuck (say, OG 1.130
sticks at 1.030-1.070 instead of going all the way to .995-1.010) it 
might take, er, years ...

================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================
uunet!joebloe!joseph   (609) 273-8200 day   joseph%joebloe@uunet.uu.net
2102 Ryan's Run East        Rt 38 & 41             Maple Shade NJ 08052
Copyright 1992 by Joseph N. Hall.   Permission granted to copy and
redistribute freely over USENET and by email.  Commercial use prohibited.