HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 1978 Trans Am needs your help!
Date: 22 Jan 1993 23:43:53 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



I tried emailing this, but the return address seems to be invalid, 
so I'll post the reply:

> Article #44519 (44527 is last):
> Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.autos.rod-n-custom
> From: if7gjg07@serss0 (Confused)
> Subject: 1978 Trans Am needs your help!
> Date: Tue Jan 19 23:42:58 1993
> 
> Hello!
>         I was kinda hoping that someone out there would be kind enough to
> help me... I just recently purchased a 1978 Trans Am.  It came with a 
> 455 c.i.d. engine coupled to a T-400 tranny which makes the 4.11 posi
> rear end do its thing.  Although the mechanicals are not stock, I would
> like to make the car body and interiorlook stock.  Does anybody out there 
> know a decent place to get parts?  I need most of the interior, and a hood.  
> There are a few dents from Hurricane Andrew, but I can fix them...  I would 
> also appreciate it if Someone could tell me where I could find some Hurst 
> Hatch T-Tops, just in case.....
> 
> Also, in lieu of recent bandwidth conversation, could anybody tell me where
> I might be able to find the engine codes on a Pontiac Big Block, I am not
> sure of the year... that is why I need the engine codes...
 
 
From my 1978 Trans Am service manual:
 
"The fifth digit of the VIN is a one-letter code identifying the 
engine use on the car."  It then gives a table.  Code Z is the 6.6 
litre engine.
 
"The sixth position is the model year.  An 8 in that position is 
1978.
 
 
Now if what you are looking for is the location of the code on the 
engine, it says that for the big block pontiac (6.6 litre), the 
code is at 
 
"Machined surface on front of block below right cylinder head." 
 
 
I looked through the manual and could not find any other 
information relating to the engine serial number.

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Posted-Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 10:07:29 -0600
Received-Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 10:08:13 CST
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 93 10:07:29 -0600
From: Matt Rein #3 <mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To: rec.autos.tech
Subject: CRX Lost MPG oxy gas
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Organization: mailEnteringNews at Honeywell SRC

> 
> In rec.autos.tech Matt Rein #3 <mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com> wrote:
> >My Tempo mileage fell from 30 MPG to 22 with the winter/oxygenated
> >gasoline...
> 
> How can you tell if the gasoline is ``oxygenated''? There is a sticker
> at the pumps where I buy gas that reads ``May contain MTBE''.  Is this
> the same thing as ``oxygenated fuel''?
> --
> The opinions stated above are not necessarily my employer's.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> Roberto L. Landrau    KC1YP    landrau@mitre.org  rll@linus.mitre.org
> The MITRE Corporation  Bedford, MA 01730          rll@linus.UUCP
> 

In the Twin Cities area a sticker on the pump says something like, "blah
blah blah this pump dispenses oxygenated gas from ?Oct.? til Jan 31 blah
blah blah." 

--
- Matt Rein
- mrein3@cfsmo.honeywell.com
From: sharp@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Darrin Sharp)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:44:20 GMT
Subject: U-joint lubrication
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech


	For years, when lubing the U-joints on my vehicles, I've pumped
	grease in until I get clean grease flowing out from around all four
	dust seals. I've never had any problem with ruptured seals.
	But, the other day, I was browsing through an auto mechanics
	book and it said to only pump in grease until the seal(s) 
	swell(s) a little. 
	
	I'm not convinced I'm damaging the seal my way. I'm also not
	convinced the other way will lube the U-joint thoroughly.

	So, what is the recommended procedure?

	1) Pump in grease until clean grease flows from around all four
	   dust seals.

	2) Pump in just a little grease, until you see the seal(s) swell.


	-Darrin Sharp (sharp@fc.hp.com)
From: mab3474@zeus.tamu.edu (Myles Barkman-KG5AI Tx A&M Univ.)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Please help my Blazer!
Date: 25 Jan 1993 00:05 CST
Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: zeus.tamu.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

I have been having some trouble with my 90 Chevy Blazer for about a month.  
Occassionally while driving (usually accellerating) I loose power and the car
sort of buckles like it wants to stall.  As the car warms up, the problem gets
worse especially when I have to go from a stop.  Someone told me it could be 
water in my gas so I tried some remover and it seemed to help.  I put in some
really good gas too.  But the problem comes back sporadically.  When it is
really bad, I can't start the car.  When I try to start it, it just cranks
and cranks and often kicks really hard like the spark is firing at the wrong
time and kicking the piston down at the wrong time.  I have also smelled
Hydrogen sulfide a couple of times before I shut the engine off and then 
couldn't start it.  Someone told me it could be crap in my tank and I need to
get it pressure flushed.  Someone else told me to try techroline.  I did and
it didn't fix the problem.  I took it to the shop (had to push it the last
50 feet after stalling) and had the mechanic look at it.  He noticed the
engine not starting and didn't get to it til the next day.  Problem is, after
sitting for that long, it started right up and never acted up on him again.
He checked the computer on the car and it checked out.  He did replace the
fuel filter which had some restriction in it but he doesn't think that was
*THE* problem.  It had been nearly a week since I took it in and it still
works OK but I am afraid and the the mechanic is sure that it will happen 
again.  I just hope I can make it to the shop when it starts messing up again.
If anyone knows what is going on or has any ideas, please share your ideas.
When the car works, it works great.  When it doesn't, it sucks.  Since it
is so intermittant, I can't see it being the timing belt slipped.  
Thanks in advance for all help.

******************************************************************************
* Namenet   : Myles Barkman   aka 'Scanman'             Texas A&M University *
* Hamnet    : KG5AI          V.P. of W5AC-TAMU ARC        College Station TX *
* Internet  : mab3474@venus.tamu.edu   RACES          Grad-Dec.92            *
* Bitnet    : mab3474@tamvenus           ARES         BS Electronics         *
* Packetnet : kg5ai@w5ac.tx.usa.na         SKYWARN    Engineering Technology *
* ICBMnet   : 30.606 N 96.316 W        I never met a tornado I didn't like.  *
******************************************************************************
From: walkerr@teak.WPI.EDU (Robert A Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Engine options 302 or 351?
Date: 26 Jan 1993 02:11:18 GMT
Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
NNTP-Posting-Host: teak.wpi.edu

>He swapped a 351 into his Bronco but as I remember he swapped a 302 back
>in, or at least wants. He said that the 351 was too much power for the
>wieght and small wheel base of the Bronco and made it more difficult to
>control in touchy off road situations. BTW he has the 4-speed manual in
>his. The 351 also accentuated the old Bronco suspension rocking. My old
>Bronco bucked so much with the 302 I can see his point. The extra power
>and wieght could make it alot worse.

	What year Bronco are you talking about that has a lot of suspension
rocking, i have a '78 with a freshly rebuilt 351M, there is a lot of power
but i would still like more, I've expierienced no rocking of any sort, 
actually it handles better than a lot of cars i've driven, corners real 
tight with front and rear anti-sway bars, with almost no body roll, 
The only problem i had was axel wrap which was solved with a set of 
kicker shocks.  I do understand what you mean by hard to control in 
touchy off road situations, especially witht the low 1st gear of the 
T-18, in several situations were i needed to got REAL slow, i've found 
riding the clutch in 2nd better than 1st were the clutch just grabs and
you go.
From: tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com (Tom Leone)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Freewheeling engines, Eclipse timing belts (was: ... Timing Belts after 60K miles??)
Date: 27 Jan 1993 17:28:51 GMT
Organization: Ford Motor Company Research Laboratory
NNTP-Posting-Host: slee02.srl.ford.com
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5

About which engines are freewheeling: the "rule of thumb" is
that virtually all American engines are freewheeling, while most
European and Japanese (except Toyota, Subaru, and Suzuki)
engines are not.  When I say American, I mean American designed
and built, not a transplant or re-badge.

Source: Motor magazine, August 1991, for 1981 to 1990 cars.
(Shows a complete list by manufacturer).  The only
non-freewheeling American engines shown on the list are the old
Ford 1.6L (not 1.9L) Escort, and the Chrysler (Eagle?) Medallion.

Note that the GM Quad 4 and Toyota four-valves are freewheeling, 
so that has nothing to do with it.  I think it has more to do
with corporate philosophy.

Tom Leone <tgl@slee01.srl.ford.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: WHAT IS AN A-I-R PUMP ON A CHEVY CAPRICE ENGINE?
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 08:02:46 GMT

pzh@swan.dsto.gov.au  writes:
> mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
> << stuff deleted>>
> 
> >  Or if your state doesn't have an inspection law, and you are not too
> >concerned about being legal, you can just take the damn thing off and
> >get a shorter fan belt, and plug the holes in the exhaust manifold.  You
> >will get a little more power this way, because the engine will not have to
> >turn the AIR compressor.  Either way, it is not terribly difficult.
> >  Option three:  Just disconnect the pully and get a shorter fan belt,
> >so that you can reconnect it come inspection time!
> > 
> >Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
> 
> DO NOT JUNK THE AIR PUMP!! 
> The motors that use air pumps here in Oz apparently do not
> react well to having the air pump disconnected. The after-market workshop
> manual for my car (Gregory's brand) warns not to remove the pump or run the 
> motor without the belt even for short periods of time.
> 
> I must say, my first reaction to pumping air back into the exhaust ports was
> "what a stupid idea, I'll soon fix this".
> 
> Now can anyone tell me *why* the air pump shouldn't be removed??
I can not really think of any reason why removing the air pump would affect
engine performance.  It might be harmfull to your catalytic converter
(emphasis on MIGHT).  The only possible explanation is that on modern
engines with an O2 sensor, it might throw it off.  I don't see how an O2
sensor would even work on an AIR equipped car anyway, because it would be
fed straight air from the outside world, and it couldn't monitor the O2
left over after the engine like it is supposed to.  I think that this is
just a ploy to get you to keep your emmissions control devices in tact,
and to keep emmissions parts manufacturers in bussiness.  Just my $.02
 
Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu

P.S.  I drove an '80 chevette with the AIR pump disconnected for three years
and actually gained a few HP.  My brother's Malibu has the AIR pump
disconnected and it runs in the 15s on a bone stock 350.
 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kokerj@vccsouth10.its.rpi.edu (James Matthew Kokernak)
Subject: Re: Replacing the Timing Belts after 60K miles??
Reply-To: kokerj@rpi.edu
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 12:47:54 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.074048.23365@news.unomaha.edu>, mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden) writes:
|> > 	A friend hof mine has a Plymouth RS/Turbo (The same type of car as  
|> > Eagle Talon Tsi and Mitsbishi Eclipse). He drove the car so hard that it  
|> > reached its 60K line within 2.5 years. He was wondering whether he should  
|> > go ahead and replace the timing belt as recommended in the operation  
|> > manual, or wait as long as possible ?. He was so reluctant to do so  
|> > because  the dealer warned him to prepare for a two days job to get that  
|> > done. Consider the $54/hr cost of labor, that's going to be a Big charge.
|> 
|> When (or if) it goes bad, replace it then.  It is a BIG chore, especially on
|> front (or all)  wheel drive cars like this.  Most belts will live WELL beyond
|> the 100k mark.  Mostly the belt fails because of the rubber decaying, not
|> because of excessive miles.  If he is really worried about becoming stranded
|> some day, then have him change it.  Otherwise, keep your money.
|> 
|> Mike Golden - mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu
|> 

Is this engine freewheeling? I assume that is a 16v and probably not, especially
since it is made in Japan. You can let it go, but if the engine doesn't 
freewheel and the belt breaks, you're in for some MAJOR valve work. (read
$1000-$2000). If you don't want to spend $54/hr then have an independent
do it. I know someone with a Jetta GLi that let it go, twice. Cost him $1500
at least one of the times. The job shouldn't cost more than $250 on any car. The 
belt itself only *costs* ~$10. You'll probably be charged $30 by the mechanic.
From: murthy+@EDRC.CMU.EDU (Sesh Murthy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: How do you know when to rebuild an engine.
Date: 27 Jan 93 18:42:59 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.C1Izzt.AB9.2
Organization: Carnegie Mellon University

My 84 Century has 127 K (20K added in the last 4 months) and the
oil light goes on at idle if I do not use STP oil treatment 
(viscosity increaser as someone called it.)  There was a coolant 
leak somewhere but I plugged it using the aluminum flakes.
The car consumes about 1 quart of oil every 3000 miles.  There
is an oil leak from the head gasket but it is very small.  

On the other hand it runs just great getting 31 mpg on
the freeway and idles very well too.  I have no idea about the
in city mpg. (I physically advanced the timing to get the 31 mpg.)

I have never driven an engine till it had to be rebuilt. ( Other
drivers usually totalled my car for me before that.)  So the 
question is how do I know that my engine is ready to give up 
and die.  Is it going to be 
1. A slow process where I can watch for some symptoms.  What
are these symptoms.
2. or am I going to be stranded somewhere with something broken.

That is when should I seriously consider rebuilding my engine.

Also what do you guys think of getting an engine rebuilt at one
of the technical schools.  They offer to do the labour for free
(you pay for the parts) and they provide no guarantee.  I am 
inclined to take the risk and have both my engine and transmission
rebuilt at around 160K.

Regards,
Sesh Murthy
From: JEFFS@LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM (Jeff Schaefer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: CRX Lost MPG
Date: 26 Jan 93 15:00:47 GMT
Article-I.D.: iscnvx.1993Jan26.150047.23005
Organization: O/19-61

In article <ofN4C3S00UhW85Pr0b@andrew.cmu.edu>, Christopher Bradley Devlin <cd1i+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
> 
> Have a 91 CRX w/35K miles, lost 4-6 MPG suddenly and has not returned
> after all relatively simple work done. i.e. plugs, air filter, etc.  Any
> help appreciated.
> 
> Please respond to this account
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> Charlie
> 
> 
>
I experienced a similar decrease in MPG when I installed Bosch platinum plugs
in my '89 Civic DX. I also experienced a significant drop in power!  If I hadn't 
thrown the old plugs out I'd have re-installed them.  I have been told that 
the ignition timing needs to be reset with platinum plugs but I haven't had 
it checked yet.  Hope this helps!!

-Jeff
From: steve@tr.UUCP (steve chandler)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: importing kit car from UK to USA.
Date: 25 Jan 93 16:31:28 GMT

Has anyone out there imported a kit car into the USA from the UK. 
If so could anyone give me any tips on import paperwork, 
or any problems encountered.

cheers

steve


uunet!tr!steve
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mike@ravel.udel.edu (Michael James Porter)
Subject: F-150 Clutch
Organization: University of Delaware
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 22:34:59 GMT

Several months ago I posted a question involving a clutch failure
in an F-150 with a 5-speed manual, in-line 6cyl.  The problem
centered around stress cracks in the hub of the clutch, extending
from the spring cutouts to the edge of the hub.  Eventually, one
of the cushioning springs popped out and got between the clutch
plates, destroying the entire clutch.  The clutch was not 
particularly worn.  Everyone that has seen the clutch agrees
that this should not have happened (I saved the parts).

The dealer was not too willing to listen, prefering to take the
standard line of 'clutchs are a user repair, and not covered under
the 6/60 warranty' ('88, 50K at the time).  But, they did submit whatever
paperwork was required to get Ford to look at the problem.

I got busy with work and classes, and always meant to follow up by
writing directly to Ford, but never quite got the time.

Anyway, right before Christmas, I got a check from Ford for the
full amount.  I don't know exactly why they re-embursed me
(was the item on un-announced recall?  was the factory rep in
a good mood that day?) because the envelope only contained a
check, but I'm not about to complain (although with 3 or
4 Ford dealers nearby, I don't see why I need to go back to that
dealer.  Their attitude was pretty crummy)

Its nice to see a domestic auto maker stand behind their product.

Mike
From: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu (Terry Quinn)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: diagnostic code 17 on '88 dodge dakota
Date: 27 Jan 1993 22:59:37 -0600
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Reply-To: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu



> Anyone know what code 17 is?  
 
Engine running too cool.  You probably are getting only fair 
heater output also.
 
I just had the same thing, replaced thermostat and solved it.  Use 
a genuine Mopar thermostat...I used an aftermarket one first, 
it didn't fix it, found out later from dealer that some 
aftermarket thermostats leak too much to keep engine temp up. 
 
> Where can I get a complete list?
 
page 14-77 of the 1988 Electrical, Fuel, and Emissions service 
manual.  
 
(Sorry, couldn't resist).
 
> Steve
 

--
                                    Terry Quinn
                                     Germantown Hills, IL
                                      tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
from Compuserve . . .                  >INTERNET: tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: TH350 vs. TH400
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Date: 22 Jan 93 23:01:00 GMT
Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams) 
Distribution: world
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * 501-985-0059 * Public Access Usenet


-> TH350, but I thought maybe the TH400 would be a better idea for the
-> performance engine I now had. However, I ended up just rebuilding and
-> keeping the TH350 for the following reasons:

.....  the T400 uses a different spline on the tailshaft splines

.....  the T400 is a different length, requiring a shortened or
       lengthened (depending on version) driveshaft, and relocating
       the crossmember, and of course the rubber mount is different
       too

.....  rod type column shift linkage will work OK, but the cable type
       shifters won't

.....  kickdown actuation is different (electric vs mechanical)

 Fortunately, the speedometer cable fit.  It's about the ONLY goddamned
thing that'll bolt straight up.  Swapping the T350 for a T400 isn't that
big a deal when you know what you're getting into, but I'd been assured
by "experts" that it would drop right in.  A one-day job turned into
over a week of parts scrounging, since I had to send the driveshaft out
of town to be modified, and I paid a GOOOOOOOOD price for the wierdo
T400 yoke.  You know GOOOOOOOOOD price?   That's when nobody else in
town has one, and you need it *now*.
                                                                                            
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: aldridge@netcom.com (Jacquelyn Aldridge)
Subject: Help! Water in gastank
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 23:29:36 GMT

	Hi, the mechanic at the garage said I have water in the gastank.
He said when he pumped the fuel through the pump and into a cup there was 1
teaspoon of water per cup. 
	I'd just paid them to have the muffler replaced while stating that
it made noise and in the last week or so had lost power. They state that
the muffler was bad anyway. 
	Point is, now they say that they will have to take off the gas tank
to get the water out. That the vent hose was disconnected up near the inlet
and that that was probably how the water got in. It's been raining for
three weeks in Berkeley. 

	So, what do you all think? Could I put enough methenol (gas
treatment stuff) to take care of the problem? Is there any other  way to
take care of it? 

	After I picked up the car Friday with the new muffler I started
accross the bay bridge. Notice then I didn't have power enough to get up
past 35 mph. Got off at treasure island, put one treatment in on the advice
of the gas station attendent. Filled the tank and tried driving around
there. The problem got worse untill the car wouldn't go. Paid to tow it
back and put it in the garage's parking lot. Next day the garage called and
said they thought it was a serious fuel system problem. Later talking to my
dad they said there was no rust in the fuel they drew and that they could
probably take the tank off and drain it. 

	If the tsp/cup of water was for the whole tank then it could be as
much as a quart of water. But if they are drawing from the bottom maybe
it's less. 

	But if the water is stopping up the fuel lines, filter, or
something it might not run anyway. 

	Advice please. I need to figure out something and I don't trust
the garage people much anymore. Could you please post or e-mail
immediately.
    
-jackie-

From: chrisw@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Chris Wiles)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 16:09:40 GMT
Subject: Ca swap meet!
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech



	Just a reminder about the upcoming swap meet in Turlock, Ca.
This is the first one of the year and is sure to be a big one. For
those outside Ca, Turlock is located in the central valley. Just
north of Modesto or South Of Stockton.

	Chris Wiles

	P.s. Its held at the fair grounds.