HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: distef@carson.u.washington.edu (Sandra Distefano)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: Help! I am desperite
Date: 19 Nov 92 18:07:50 GMT
Article-I.D.: u.1992Nov19.180750.19382
Organization: University of Washington

leslianne@seahcx.UUCP (Leslianne Heimbeck) writes:

>In article <089SB8S4@cc.swarthmore.edu> sstockw1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Sarah Stockwell) writes:
>>

>Sarah is right, the shampoo works great!  It's called Mycodex (sp), with
>Pyritherins and Carbaryl as the insecticides.  It's sold for cats and dogs,
>but as Sarah knows, it works very well on rodents too.  One word of caution
>though - don't let it get into the eyes, it's very irritating! 

>I suggest that when you are letting it "soak in", wrap your li'l one in a
>washcloth to insulate him/her a little, then cuddle her. Make sure the
>shampoo stays on for the full five minutes for maximum effectiveness.

>Regards,
>LH

In addition to getting the mites off the animal, it is essential
that you get it out of his home.  I know other people have mentioned
cleaning the cage and environs, but I just wanted to stress that
it really is essential to get rid of all the little buggers or you
risk reinfection (if mites is what you have).  Wash the cage in 
hot soapy water and then soak in cold water and bleach (hot water
makes bleach not as effective) and then rinse.  Throw away all 
bedding and toys you cannot sterilize.  Clean the area around the 
cage.  You might consider sterilizing the cage more than once (once a 
week for three weeks or something like that).

If it really is mites, your vet might be able to test for it.  When
my budgie got scaly face the vet took a skin scraping and looked at 
it under the microscope and saw the mites.  Maybe the same is possible
for your rat (although different mites hide in different places so they
may be hard to diagnose that way.  In birds there is a mite which hides
in the cage during the day and comes out at night to feed on the blood 
of the bird.  Unless you actually see the mites, it is hard to 
diagnose).  Also, if it is mites, you should ask the vet if the 
drug Ivermectin would be appropriate.  It is a drug which is injected
and is very effective against some parasites.

Good luck.

Sandra
distef@u.washington.edu
From: alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu (Amy Young Leith)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: Rabbit worry
Date: 19 Nov 92 15:19:03 GMT
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington

In article <1992Nov19.052616.21569@bmerh85.bnr.ca> myhui@bnr.ca (Michael Hui) writes:
>Meanwhile, my Big Wig, the big bundle of bun, sure knows how to play:

I'll add to the list as well... 

Dink took the cake last night.  Scot and I were heading to bed, and we
found him frolicking on the waterbed in the blankets.  So we lay down,
watch some tv, while he walks all over us.  Finally he settles down
beside Scot (he's been much more lovey with him lately) and commences
to lick his arm from fingertip to elbow (his loving little grooming
ritual).  Then when Scot rolled over, Dink came in between us and
settled down in the crook of my arm.  Scot was petting him, and fell
asleep with his hand on him, and he just snuggled down into my arm and
dozed off.  About two hours later he woke up and started figiting, and
then got up and went to play. 

And now he's laying about four feet in front of my chair all stretched
out giving me that "I'm so cute and you won't play with me...." look.

I will also comment on the picking up thing... Dink loves to be held.
I make sure that when I am picking him up to take him to the cage, I
carry him differently than when I pick up to play or pet.  He knows
the difference. 

amy
-- 
alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu for personal mail
			    All business mail to alyoung@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
       I only speak for myself.  Anyone who thinks differently is a fool.
From: mjc+@cs.cmu.edu (Monica Cellio)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: Buns and "leashes?"
Date: 23 Nov 92 15:46:45 GMT
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

almanb@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Bob Alman) writes:
>Anyway, they are simply a
>single line which forms a loop where you put the bunny's head in and a length
>of free line with a clasp on the end which goes behind the front legs and clips
>to the junction point on the bunny's back. 

Warning: I don't know if this is typical for these, but without really trying,
Stuart and I broke that plastic clip-like thing that holds the whole operation
together on our first (and so far only) outing.  Stuart was sufficiently
surprised at actually being outside, though that he just stood there munching
grass with the remains of the harness wrapped around him, and didn't try to
take off.  (The only time I've been able to carry him without him squirming,
by the way, was on the way back upstairs from that outing.  I guess he was
too happy to care.)

Before spring I'm going to try to construct something out of leather and
velcro.  I'd be much happier if the harness couldn't tighten around his
neck, anyway.

Monica
From: lpman@gatecom.UUCP (Mike Flemming)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Ferrets
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 16:46:04 EST
Organization: Gateway Communication Inc.

Hi I have been considering getting a ferret for a pet. I am relocating to
Arizona in a few weeks as was wondering if they are legal there. Also
whats the true story with ferrets I suspect what I see in the media is
mostly hype, am I right??? What kind of care level do they require??
Is it similar to a cat in respect to its care or is it alot of work???
How about domestication, will it destroy my house???? Any help would
be much apreciated.
Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: beckers@quip.eecs.umich.edu (Becki Kain)
Subject: Re: FERRET intestinal blockages
Organization: University of Michigan EECS Dept., Ann Arbor
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 23:49:52 GMT

In article <1992Nov14.052217.1670@udel.edu> hartman@thorin.cis.udel.edu (Nancy Hartman) writes:
>In article <viking.721633808@vincent2.iastate.edu> viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson) writes:
>
>>	WARNING!!!  Rubber products, such as balloon bits possibly left
>>about after a child's party, can be injested by ferrets and can block
>>the stomach.  Signs are dehydration, a firm belly, skin that does not
>>return to normal shape quickly when pinched, and a listless carpet shark.
>>Run that Hoover before you let them play.
>
>In case all of you haven't noticed yet, ferrets are *VERY* prone to 
>intestinal blockages.  The main culprits are rubber items which 
>expand when they come in contact with the digestive juices.  But
>just about anything (including their own fur!) can cause a blockage.
>
>I strongly suggest using a laxative (Laxatone, Laxastat, Lax-aire, etc...)
>once or twice a week as a preventative (about a 1 ince ribbon of the 
>stuff, more if you suspect possible blockage).
>
>Only allow rubber/latex/foam toys under supervision and *throw them away*
>at the first sign that pieces are being chewed off.  Brush your ferret
>during shedding periods.  And be careful not to leave any "tempting" 
>objects around.
>
>And, most importantly, always keep an eye on the litterbox.  Gross as that
>may sound, the litterbox is one of the first indications that something
>is wrong with your ferret.  Remember, ferrets have an annoying habit of
>not acting sick until they are at death's door, so as owners we have to
>be keenly aware of our ferrets' behavior patterns, intake & output, and 
>sleeping habits.  If there is a change in any of those, we know that we 
>should be concerned and check for signs of illness.
>
>- Nancy 
>-- 
YES,  my now deceased (from an human accident) Chaos almost died from an
earplug that she had eaten.  She had it in her like two days before she was
taken to the vet for sugery.  I was up with her for two weeks afterwards feeding
her heated babyfood until she recovered.  Even though I don't cage my rats, it's
times like this that you have to so that you can watch the litter box.  It's no different than what you would do for a human child.  btw, linatone is a laxative too.

beckers

and tieke, nero, escher, tigger, riki tiki tavi, josephus
Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: viking@iastate.edu (Dan Sorenson)
Subject: Re: let's talk cows
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 02:00:28 GMT

czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon) writes:

>>sbp2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (SARA BETH PIWOWAR) writes:
>>
>>>COWS make great pets; everyone should check this out.

>Aren't they a little rough on the furniture?

	Yeah, and they're pure hell on the carpet!

< Dan Sorenson, DoD #1066 z1dan@exnet.iastate.edu viking@iastate.edu >
<  ISU only censors what I read, not what I say.  Don't blame them.  >
<  "This isn't an answer, it's a pagan dance around a midnight fire  >
<   written in intellectual runes." -- Rich Young                    >



Newsgroups: rec.pets
From: "Amy Young Leith" <alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: Darwin was neutered!
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1992 16:40:23 -0500

In article <4650034@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> almanb@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Bob Alman) writes:
[...]
> As a footnote I will mention that I have seen pronounced behavior mod in the
> first male. He was VERY aggressive toward the other (we thought we had bought
> females) Now he's docile and no longer sprays...ever! But the other guy took
> over and he was hell-bent to kill the other one. I don't think they will ever
> get along, but hopefully the rage will be lessened. I would recommend
> neutering males as soon as it is possible before they develop these habits.
> I'll post how this works or doesn't work a few months from now after the 
> hormones are gone etc.
> Bob ]

I was always worried I was neutering too early, for the pet store I
bought Dink from didn't know his exact age.  However, I figured if he
was humping everything in sight, he was sexually mature... 

I must have gotten to him in time, although early, for he never
sprayed (that I know of, and judging from his litter box when I get
lazy and don't keep it nice and new, I'd know...). 

But you know something funny?  He's CRAZY over stuffed animals.  He
LOVES them.  He'll drag them around, dig at them, snuggle with them,
hide them, you name it.  We moved our water bed, which at the head,
has a hole to get in between the two pieces of the drawers, and when
we moved it, there were a bunch of little stuffed animals in there.  

amy


-- 
alyoung@kiwi.ucs.indiana.edu for personal mail
			    All business mail to alyoung@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Dislcaimer:I only speak for myself.  Anyone who thinks differently is a fool.
			(This means NOT my employer!!)
From: ardie@UIUC (R.D. McClary)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: trap door spiders
Date: 18 Nov 92 13:27:08 GMT
Organization: Department of Plant Pathology

In article <adwright.722031855@vincent1.iastate.edu> adwright@iastate.edu () writes:
>From: adwright@iastate.edu ()
>Subject: trap door spiders
>Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 20:24:15 GMT
>Is any pet store selling trap door spiders as pets? I had some once when i
>lived in Africa (found them in my garden). I put them in an aquarium filled 
>with dirt. They would tend to build the tunnels next to the glass so they
>were fairly visible. It was sort of fun to watch them crawl up the tunnel, open
>the door and pull in whatever insect happened to walk across the door. 
>I miss those guys! Are they indigenous to Africa alone or can they be found in
>North America too? They make a nice, low maintenance pet and could probably
>work well in a terrarium too. Any info appreciated.
>Al
>
>
>
>
     I understand that trapdoor spiders (at least the Australian variety) 
can have a rather nasty bite.  A fun pet spider is the common heavy-bodied, 
mostly black jumping spider (Phidippus audax).  They are even LESS 
maintenance, and they make the most incredible twisting leaps as they assult 
flies, some of which may be twice the size of the spider!
From: njl@druhi.ATT.COM (Nancy J. LaRoche)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Re: Rabbit worry
Summary: Alfalfa cubes are TOYS, not a substitue for hay!
Date: 20 Nov 92 19:31:10 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.052616.21569@bmerh85.bnr.ca>, myhui@bnr.ca (Michael Hui) writes:
>    he likes to sharpen...by gnawing on his compressed hay chew block,
>    and eating the hay in the process, of course.

This happened to remind me of an error that a lot of people whose rabbits I
work with make, and I thought I'd mention it in case of the bunny-folks out
there are making the same mistake...

The compressed hay chew blocks (alfalfa cubes, whatever) are great for
chewing exercise, but the hay that is ingested should not be considered as
the hay that is important to the diet in helping to prevent hairballs.
Regular, unprocessed hay should be used for this purpose.  Although alfalfa
can be used, it is too rich for some bunnies (causes diahrrea), and
fattening for others.  I personally like grass hays--timothy, oat, etc.

Nancy LaRoche (HRS)
att!druhi!njl
From: lpman@gatecom.UUCP (Mike Flemming)
Newsgroups: rec.pets
Subject: Ferrets
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 92 23:23:31 EST
Organization: Gateway Communication Inc.

Hi I posted earlier regarding ferrets and wasnt able to get back online
so apparently I missed the responses. I am considering a pet ferret, I am
moving to AZ. are they legal there?? Are the horror stories about killer
ferrets the usaul media hype?? How about their care, are they a "high 
maintenance" pet??? 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: Breeders
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:50:37 GMT

In article <Bxz3uK.Eru@mentor.cc.purdue.edu> thompssp@feserve.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson) writes:
>
> (Deleted)
>
>
>     One last thing---I am thinking about buying THE REPRODUCTIVE HUSBANDRY
>OF BOAS AND PYTHONS by: Ross. I have heard that this is the BEST book out for
>anyone wanting to get in to breeding snakes. Does anyone have this book that 
>would care to comment? I would like to get a little feedback before this 
>starving student spends $90 on a snake book!!
>
I have the book.  It is the best thing I have seen for boas and pythons.  It
does not address any other knd of snake, though a few things (like plans for
a home built incubator) could be useful to others.  *But* Ross' book is not
a cookbook.  It does not say that you will get babies if you do a, b, c, 
..., n.  IMHO, there is nothing on the market that comes close to being a 
breeding cookbook.

If $90 is too high, join the Chicago Herp Society (address in faq).  Their book
service has it for around $75.  Buy three books from them, and you have at the
least paid for your membership dues and gotten their monthly newsletter and
membership packet free.  The membership packet has a bunch of care in captivity
sheets and is almost worth the membership all by itself, IMHO.  (I'm a 
corresponding member of the CHS.)

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
From: thompssp@feserve.cc.purdue.edu (Steven P. Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Mice
Date: 18 Nov 92 19:42:36 GMT
Organization: Purdue University


     I am wanting to purchase a large quantity of mice. All I am really 
interested in are frozen ones. Does anyone know of anyplace where one can
mail order a bunch (ie. 100 ??) of frozen mice? I am interested in regular
size mice and pinkies also!

       Thank You for any help you can give!!!!


                                                  ~Steve
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: kamalm@sco.COM (Kamal A. Mostafa)
Subject: Chem hand-warmers (was Re: Emergency)
Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc.
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 17:43:36 GMT


jmm7076@ultb.isc.rit.edu (J.M. Maurer) writes:
 | 
 | ...But this made me think about getting a large quantity of the
 | small chem hand warmers.  You can get them at any sporting goods stores
 | and they last 8+ hours....
 | 

I've wondered about the chemical hand-warmers too...  Is there any chance
that a herp could bite (or claw) thru the plastic container-baggie and
get to the chemicals?  I suspect that the stuff is pretty toxic.

Has anybody actually used these things for herps, with or without incident?

-k
From: dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Tame?  Snakes
Date: 21 Nov 92 02:02:21 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University

In article <1eivafINNckj@uwm.edu>, hodgeman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (William Hodgeman J
r) writes:
>
>I've heard all this talk about "tame" iguanas, but what about
>snakes?  Can you tame them?  How do they respond to people,
>compared to igs?
>
>Bill Hodgeman
>(hodgeman@csd4.csd.uwm.edu)
>

In all my experiences, I have encountered many tame snakes.  Most pythons and
boas usually are "nippy" at youth but as they are handled everyday by their
owner, they gradually become tamer. (Though this is not because the snake is
being trained.  There are no recorded instances...as far as I know...that a
snake was able to be trained.)  This doesn't mean every boid follows this
pattern.  Reticulated p.  in my experiences have always been bitter, and a few
boas (tree boa for ex.) will bite sometimes.  This is not to say every snake
is totally trained.  My burmese which I though was the tamest snake in the
world (you could kick it across the room and it wouldn't do anything...not
that I would ever do this!) turned on me once while handling food.  A pretty
nasty bite!  Well, I won't comment on the other snakes since I never actually
owned any. Well I hope this helps.


DISCLAIMER:  These views are my opinions based on my experiences in handling
and owning these snakes.  They are at no time to be based on actually
scientific and studies done on snakes.


    -Dan
-- 
*******************************************************************************
*Dan McCauley       (Lair of Sam, Lisa, Spot, Spot II, and Victoria)
*                              ...with carcasses of dead smelly vermin!
*******************************************************************************
From: bzandrew@amiganet.chi.il.us (Bill Zandrew)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Brown Ig Head
Date: 15 Nov 92 17:34:14 GMT
Organization: Amiga Network Information Systems

In article <92315.142008KAB137@psuvm.psu.edu>, KAB137@psuvm.psu.edu writes:
>Hmmm....I've got a puzzling question...My Igs hav been with me now about two-
>three weeks...they were fairly green when I got them. Now both of their heads
>have turned brown...like they were burned (but I know they weren't) and I was
>wondering if I should worry.  Is this common, or a sign of sickness?
>-=Kymberlie, and Ren and Stumpy=-
It's probably going to shed its skin.  This happens to mine periodically.
From: nigel@pathos (niggley mon)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: help! VERY sick Tokay...
Date: 17 Nov 1992 07:32:35 GMT
Organization: Plant Biology Department, U.C. Berkeley
Distribution: world
Reply-To: nigel@pathos.berkeley.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: pathos.berkeley.edu
Summary: Very sick gecko... any suggestions?
Keywords: Gecko Tokay

HI folks,

I was just at Bio 1A bio-diversity lab (I took a couple of my herps to
add to the fun) and ran into a VERY sick Tokay.  From what I can gather
it came in thursday from western scientific and has eaten all of one
cricket since then.  I've been told that the gecko seemed fine when it
came in, but that it escaped for 10 min a one point (possible injury on
recapture?).  At the moment it is in terrible shape.  When I first saw
it it was at about 65-70C and completely immobile.  I knew something was
wrong when it let me put my hand in it's cage to retrieve the pinkie. 
On close inspection it was actually very hard to tell if the por thing
was even still alive...it appears to take 3-5 breaths then stop
breathing for 20-30 seconds.  I got a lamp out and raised the temp of
it's cage to 80-85C and sprayed it with water to prevent dehydration...
it was too weak to lick the water off it's eye.  I decided to try force
feeding it water to keep it hydrated, when I put my hand in the cage it
mustered enough energy to open it's mouth and threaten me... I squirted
water in.  I repeated the process with a couple of (very) small meal
worms.

Is ther anything else I can do for this poor critter?  What should the
cage temp be for a sick Tokay?  (for a healthy one?)  Would butter worms
help? Any other helpful suggestions?

thanx

-nigel

PS: E-mail will reach me faster than posting a reply.


Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: bagus@netcom.com (Mark E. Ruedy)
Subject: Re: EMERGENCY: SNAKE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 00:50:31 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.150304.29411@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
>My problem is that
>the snake yesterday has become very bloated looking where the rat lump has
>increased considerably in size.  I wouild appreciate it if someone could tell
>me if this a serious problem or if this is one of those normal snake things.
>

This freaked me out two, when my Boa first got big enought to eat rats.  The 
scales around her food were stretched out so wide you could see between them.
After a couple days I could see I was worrying for nothing.  I am not
a professional so don't take this a gospel, but I would give it time.

good luck
mark
From: berk@techsys.mcws.fidonet.org (Berk Walker)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Southern Alligator Lizards - questions
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 92 08:50:12 PST
Organization: Private for Now

I have a pair - ~ 14" overall.  Nasty buggers.. I made the mistake of 
grabbing them too low.. and found that they, in fact, do have teeth. :)

This biting thing might be a good thing, as possibly I could dip some 
ground meat in vitamins and "hand" feed them once in a while.  ?

Does anyone know how to determine sex of these?  Any other tips?
Thanks -

Berk Walker                           berk@techsys.mcws.fidonet.org

Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: jgraham@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu (the End)
Subject: Old World Chameleons ?
Organization: Indiana University
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 05:05:47 GMT

Hello,

Do the chameleons fair well in captivity ? Are they difficult to keep healthy
and feeding ? Are they being raised in captivity ?

If so, what should I expect to pay and what are my options ?

Anyone with info please contact me. I've had much luck with big pythons
but this is new ground for me.

Thanks,

Jim
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 14:28:22 EST
From: <SAB145@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: IGUANA PENS???

dear iguana lovers and readers,
      christmas is coming and my iguana (app. 16") needs a new home.  i was
looking at getting a 20 gallon long aquarium or building a pen.  please help me
make a decision.  i also would like any information or methods of pen building.
thanks in advance.
                               scott
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp