HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: deeds@oracle (Deanna J. Deeds)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
Subject: Re: Recent favorite project.
Date: 5 Nov 92 18:24:48 GMT
Article-I.D.: hacgate.23902
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

Amelia L. Scott (jill@super.org) wrote:
: About 4 weeks ago I finished the fabric for a project that
: surprised me.
   <snip>
:    From peanut-butter cups to flying carpets.....
: 
: 			jill@super.org
: 			Jill Scott-Piner


  This was delightful to read.  You've inspired me to get out
those cones of yarn for all those projects I've been wanting
to try, and get down to warping again!  It's just so much 
work until you get to the weaving -- the fun part !!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: clematis <clematis@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Redying faded silk shirt
X-Xxdate: Fri, 13 Nov 92 08:53:29 GMT
Organization: UW
X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d11
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:50:30 GMT

In article <1992Nov11.030407.19286@erg.sri.com> Marie desJardins,
marie@paris.erg.sri.com writes:
>I posted a question here a while ago, and didn't get any response.

I would have replied sooner, Marie, but I needed to learn to use the
editor! 
My experience with dye is pretty basic, I'm afraid. I use Rit, Kool-aid,
and Dylon dyes. They work just fine for me, and I'm interested in just
too damned many crafts to learn the Fine Art of Dyeing, with beautiful,
expensive dyes.
That having been stated, I would encourage you to experiment with the
faded blouse. You can't wear it now, anyway, right? I'm afraid that you
probably won't get it to be the original slate blue, but you might be
able to salvage it with a darker color.
First, I would try to get the blouse to an even color without damaging
it. Try a color remover (read the directions to make sure that it doesn't
eat silk!) or an extremely diluted bleach solution, rinsed vigorously and
immediately. My experience has been that silk sucks up dye like no other
natural fabric, and if you dye it dark, you're much more likely to get an
even color. I use as little water as possible, stir the garment for a
full half hour, and let it sit in the dye (stirring every once in a
while) for at least an hour to get an intense color.
I put baking soda and salt in my dye pot to fix the color onto the
fabric, then wash and dry to bone-dryness. You might not want to put a
silk blouse in the dryer, but perhaps you can iron it on high heat to
help set the dye.
I worked at a fancy-schmancy consignment store in Downtown Seattle for a
while, and the very first dye-rehabilitated garment I had was a gorgeous
dove-grey silk dress which had been sun-faded over the shoulders and
bodice to a very nasty pinkish-grey. It had sat in the display window
over a summer, I think. I snagged it for a buck, and brought it home,
thinking, naively, that I could dye it deep black. (I have since
discovered that pure black is not possible with Rit, under most
circumstances) 
I dyed it with three packages of black Rit, and simmered it on the stove
for two hours. I washed it, with 2 rinses, dried it, and ironed it. Not
only did it turn an amazing aubergine, but I think I invented sueded
silk, in 1982!
Right now I'm wearing a black bra which was originally beige (why don't
bra-makers realize that women with 38D breasts want pretty bras, too?!)
and a pair of long johns which were white but are now  yellow on the left
leg and pink on the right. 
Dying is way fun, and cheap, too!
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles
From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller)
Subject: Re:streched yarn (was Re: knitting with colors)
Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1992 00:20:51 GMT

Joann Bessler <joann@geology.ubc.ca> and various others comment and ask:

> By the way, I rarely roll balls of yarn -- my mother told me that
> it reduces some of the natural elasticity in the yarn. Any comments
> from the spinners?

Yes winding, especially tight winding of wool (not artificial) yarn will 
stretch it out and if left in the ball too long it will be permanently 
stretched and lose its elasticity.  I have a ball of yarn I wound (very 
tightly) when I was 10-years-old and it has NO give at all.

But, you can successfully wind yarn and not stretch it out by winding 
loosely and by leaving the starting end out while you wind.  When done 
winding, pull this end (from the center) until you have about a yard of 
yarn pulled out and wind this end loosely around the outsid of the ball.  
Then squeeze the ball to collapse it into the void you just created.  
Voila!  No stretch!

I use this method to rewind the ends of pull-from-the-center skeins when 
they are down near the end and starting to tangle.  No need to wind this 
kind of arrangement into balls.  But just try knitting from a loose skein!

My ball-winder machine has a large (3/4"-diameter) center post which allows 
the ball to relax once it is taken off the winder.  I am sure that this is 
enough to keep the yarn from stretching.

If you always knit from the center rather than the outside of these balls 
(either from the winder of from the by-hand-with-the-end-sticking-out 
balls) you don't have to contend with balls rolling around off the sofa, 
under the sofa, across the floor, etc.

--Jill

--
A. Richard & Jill A. Miller            | Miller Microcomputer Services |
InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu       | 61 Lake Shore Road            |
Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm EasternTZ | Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA    | 

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,alt.sewing
From: jill@super.org (Amelia L. Scott)
Subject: Stitchery Legal Question
Followup-To: post it or jill@super.org 
Summary: Can I hang my Picasso? 
Keywords: legal, copyright, Picasso 
Organization: Supercomputing Research Center (Bowie, MD)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1992 15:11:58 GMT

I've been stitching for so many years that I look for the
most complicated projects in cross-stitch available.  I 
like cross-stitch because the actual stitch is very simple
and plain and most of your effort is centered in color and
pattern.  Really good patterns look like pointilism (sp?).
	The pattern selection today is a lot better for 
intricate designs, so I think that more people are beginning
to realize that it's not a rustic/primitive/quaint-country
only craft.  I see many Victorian-style patterns, and some  
reproductions of Tiffany windows (like View from Oyster Bay), 
and even some Renoir reproductions, but nothing more modern.
	I'm not very artistic in the sense that I can't really
draw life-like images.  My skills are pretty rudimentary to my
eye.  I love geometrics and color combinations.  Picasso is a 
special artist to me, because he's the one that unlocked modern
art to me.  I never understood it, and couldn't stand most of 
it, until I studied his 12 sketches of the Bull in a poetry 
class.  (The teacher wanted us to be able to think logically in
imagery and translate it to our work, I guess.)  
	Using some engineering vellum, a coffee-table book of 
Picasso, and infinite patience, I have translated one of my 
favorite Picasso designs into a graph.  It's _The Dream_.  I 
want to stitch it and hang it on my wall at home, but will I 
have to hide this in the bedroom since it probably has a 
copyright on it?  I don't want to sell the design, I only want
to hang it on my wall so that I can see it and enjoy it.  Is 
there a problem with this?   
	I suppose that if this is out of the question, then my 
idea of translating the 12' x 60' mural of _Guernica_ into several
panels of blackwork, cross-stitch, and embroidery is out of the 
question.  
	Please don't flame me too badly.  I am usually *very*     
sensitive about copyrights and stealing ideas.

			jill@super.org
			Jill Scott-Piner
From: jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING! THE NITRITES ARE DROPPING!!!!!
Date: 6 Nov 92 21:20:23 GMT
Article-I.D.: ultra.1992Nov6.212023.8411
Organization: Ultra Network Technologies

In <1992Nov5.234934.20361@unislc.uucp> livings@unislc.uucp (Ross Livingston) writes:

[...]

-->Here's a brief synopsis of what happened:

-->Date    Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate         What I was saying to myself
-->----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-->9/28     0.0      0.0     0.0           Obviously, since I just set it up!
-->10/3      .5     trace     -            - means not tested
-->10/5     1.0       .25     -
-->10/9     1.75      .15     -
-->10/13    1.4       .25     -            Oh good, ammonia sloping off
-->10/18    1.5       .25     -            Still not much nitrite
-->10/26     .5       .35    0.0           I wonder when the nitrates will show
-->10/30     .5      3.0     0.0           Wow, where did the nitrites come from
-->11/3      .2      0.0     0.0	        Now where did they go?

-->And now, I'm still asking myself, when will the nitrates show up?  Is it
-->possible that the nitrites drop so fast?

They must be there. Perhaps your tests don't have the necessary
resolution. Since nitrates are not so important, many tests are
set up to measure large amounts. For example, the Dry Tab test only
shows amounts above 20 ppm or so and up to 120 or 200 ppm.

[...]

-->At first, I was changing 5g per week (3 times) until a local fish store person
-->told me to just let the tank go through it's radical changes on it's own and
-->it will happen a lot faster.

I disagree. What's the rush? A few days isn't a lot faster. Once any
nitrites show up, bacteria will collect and feed on them. They don't
need an overabundance. It's better for the fish to do the water
changes.

-->One last question I have is, how much does it help to 'inject' air into your
-->trickle tower?  Mine is set up such that the bottom of the tower is NOT
-->submerged, therefore air CAN get in, but not as readily as may be optimal.
-->If you recommend pumping air in, at what rate and what is the most efficient
-->way to do this?

I don't think this is necessary. The bioballs and surface flow would be
adequate to thoroughly oxygenate the water. I think we've all
been satisfied with George Booth's test that show we will never degas any 
ammonia in home tanks.

I think adding plants to get O2 in the tank and use up some of the
ammonium would be more wholesome and simpler than maintaining the
airstone in the sump.

-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: shine@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (stephen.c.shine)
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish When On Vacation
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 16:16:36 GMT

In article jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>In 01mbmccabe@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes:
>
>    weeks....Does anyone besides me think this might be a wee bit long for
>    a ~6" Oscar,  ~5" Tinfoil Barb,  and ~5" Pleco to survive unfed in a
>    20gal High tank
>
>For these aggressive fish it does sound like a long time.

I agree with Jim.

>If you don't want to try those machines, you could try the vacation
>feeder blocks. They have a slowly dissolving paste that releases
>food over time. The paste looks like cement! It will probably
>wreak havoc with your tank chemistry, but might work out.

A 6" oscar may eat that in a couple minutes.  Adam Craft put some
vacation feeders in with his oscars (about 8" long each) and they
gnawed on them until they were gone, took a day or so. And, as Jim 
points out, they made Adam's water conditions pretty miserable.
-- 
Steve Shine
AT&T Bell Labs    (908)949-8517
att!hoqub!shine   att!cbnewsh!shine
My opinions, not my employers, not my fault, blah, blah, blah.
From: mwerling@macbeth.umd.edu (Michael T. Werling)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Breeding Blue Tetras and Dwarf Gouramis
Summary: Anyone with tips, pleas reply!
Keywords: tetra gourami breeding
Date: 12 Nov 92 20:22:27 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: University of Maryland, College Park


My girlfriend has 2 blue tetras in a 5-1/2 gal tank.  She wants to know
any information anyone has about these fish, since they are not in the
book we use.  Sorry I don't know the latin for these.  Info on sexing,
favorite conditions, breeding methods and anything you want to tell us
would be helpful.


As for myself, I will be setting up a 29gal tank with Aquaclear 200
and plants (as soon as I build the tank stand).  I want to try to breed
Dwarf Gouramis (again, no Latin, sorry).  Any tips from those who have
done this would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance!

Mike (mwerling@linus.umd.edu)
From: gt7969a@prism.gatech.EDU (DEPUY)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: (F) Plant tank lighting question
Date: 9 Nov 92 15:25:48 GMT
Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology


   I have a question about how much lighting is needed for a healthy FW
plant tank.  I have a 135G (6 ft.) tank.  The plant book by James recommends
130W worth of light for a 5 ft.  tank, the fish store where I got the tank
recommends 180W (3x60W) of light, and a mail order place said 3 VHOs, 480W
is the minimum.  I'm comnsidering anything from 2 VHOs to MH with VHOs.
Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

Wynand DePuy
  wdepuy@isye.gatech.edu
-- 
DEPUY,WYNAND CRAWFORD
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt7969a
Internet: gt7969a@prism.gatech.edu
From: srh3@Ra.MsState.Edu (Steven R. Hollis)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M)[M]{M} - Please identify this critter
Date: 9 Nov 92 04:45:20 GMT
Organization: Mississippi State University


    Just saw something on the Discovery channel about the mantis shrimp.
Seems that in relation to size.  These critters have the hardest hit
in the animal kingdom.  Said the impact was about that of a 
.22 bullet and that it could shatter 1/4 inch glass.


I just report it folks I don't make it up

Steve

--
============================================================================
Steve Hollis---Your friendly          |  "What for you say you monkey, when
neighborhood zoology major/lit minor  |   you got little powder puff tail
srh3@ra.msstate.edu                   |   like rabbit----RABBIT?"
From: jason@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Jason Rosenberg)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Amonia
Date: 9 Nov 92 17:31:19 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.1992Nov9.173119.11605
Organization: UCLA, Computer Science Department

bjkramer@remus.rutgers.edu (Brian Kramer) writes:


>I just added a product called CopperSafe to my tank to treat ICK and 
>realized it was a big mistake since it supposedly kills all the
>bacteria.  Therefore my amonia has shot up.  

Whoa, don't panic completely.  When I used CopperSafe, it did affect my 
ammonia test.  That is, I set up a hospital tank, added ammonia remover/de-
chlorinator, and added the recommended dosage of CS.  Immediately, I got
a reading for the presence of ammonia.  The tank eventually cycled, while
the CS was still in the water (after about 1 week).  I know, because my nitrite
level shot up and then subsided, and now nitrate is being produced.  The ammonia
readings are still unreliable.  I was using a Tetra ammonia kit.  Mine was
a marine tank....

So, I would say that you should remain causcious, but don't panic just yet.....

-- 
Jason Rosenberg                           Computer Science Department
jason@cs.ucla.edu                         University of California
{uunet,rutgers,ucbvax}!ucla-cs!jason      Los Angeles, CA  90024
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: maz@Turing.ORG (Michael A. Zang)
Subject: Re: Oceanic tanks?  ID, please..
Organization: The Turing Project, Charlottesville Virginia.
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1992 11:55:44 GMT

     I've got an Oceanic 60gal cube. It's the best tank i've ever had.
  The glass is 1/2" plate, the top and lights are all first rate. If you're
  into aquariums for the long run it's definitly worth the extra bucks. 
  The cubic shape is great for certain fish too, i've got a 20" royal
  knife who used to be known for breaking heaters and tops. Since i put
  him in the cube though i've had no problems.
              Later,...Mike
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: cliff@watson.ibm.com (cliff)
Subject: Killing with Kindness
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1992 14:34:20 GMT
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM
Organization: A

I have a 110 gallon freshwater tropical tank and have been doing
20% water changes every week.  Someone told me that I should stop
immeditately as I was overdoing it and could harm the fish.  Any tips?
From: chuck.filson@canrem.com (chuck filson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: What slide presentations are available for club meetings?
Date: 9 Nov 92 23:18:12 GMT
Reply-To: "chuck filson" <chuck.filson@canrem.com>
Distribution: rec
Organization: Canada Remote Systems


RC>My club is having a hard time coming up with slide presentations every
RC>week.  Could someone who knows of presentations available from other
RC>organizations (like ACA, IBC, other clubs...) please tell me the
RC>title/subject of a presentation and who to contact to obtain it.  If
RC>it requires joining the specialty organization we're willing to do
RC>that.  I'll gladly post a summary if I get some replies.

  In Canada, you should contact the "Canadian Association of Aquarium Clubs".
    95 East 31 St.
    Hamilton, Ontario
    L8V 3N9

  It is similar to the FAAS organization in the US. It provides a number
of services such as breeders/horticulure awards and slide/film/video rentals.

Chuck
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: wkb@cbnews.cb.att.com (wm.keith.brummett)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Filter media
Date: 7 Nov 92 00:42:49 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnews.1992Nov7.004249.13448
Organization: AT&T


    In article <Bx9Fz0.7Ir@agps.lanl.gov>, boggs@agps.lanl.gov (Marsha
    topgun/ne) writes:
    > 
    > I replaced my whisper 300 and ugf on my 55 freshwather tank with a 
    > ehiem canister filter.  What I need to know is how often to replace 
    > the filter media.  It came prepacked with a nylon net for coarse
    > filtration, a HUGE bag of charcoal, and topped with floss. ...
    > I can't see the inside of the filter to see how cruddy it is getting
    > without disconnecting, so is there a rule of thumb to go by?  

    I'm running an Eheim 2017 on a tank, and here's how I pack it.  Bottom
    layer is several inches of Ehfimech ceramic noodles to break up the
    flow and collect crud.  Then, working upward, is a layer (couple of
    inches) of Ehfifix-grob (green easter-basket grass) and a double layer
    of Ehfifix-fein (fine white plastic grass) for biological filtering.
    On top is a thick layer of regular (polyester?) white aquarium floss.
    I don't know if this top layer actually filters anything, but it
    collects an enormous amount of bacteria slime in several months' time
    (that's how often I clean it).  I don't use bags for anything.

    Although the casing is dark green, I can see the top layer of floss
    through the plastic.  As long as it is lighter than the rest of the
    contents, I figure it's OK.  When it gets darker than the rest, I clean
    the canister.  To clean, I unplug it, close and disconnect the double
    I/O valves, and carry the canister to the edge of the sink.  I open the
    valves and let the water drain into a bucket.  I open the lid, remove
    and discard the slime-covered floss, then lift out the three plastic
    grass layers and gently rinse them in the bucket of old water.  I
    remove and rinse the noodles under tap water.  I rinse and wipe the
    interior of the canister, and inspect and clean the power-head lid. I
    then repack the filter, using clean floss on top.  I re-connect it,
    open the valves, and plug it back in.  About 20 minutes total.

    -- Keith

-- 
    | (614) 860-3187         Copyright (C) 1992, by       AT&T, Room 3B202 |
    | att!cblph!wkb  or,     W.K. Brummett and AT&T      6200 E. Broad St. |
    | wkb@cblph.att.com       All rights reserved.      Columbus, OH 43213 |
    `----------------------------------------------------------------------'
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: mriehle@nyx.cs.du.edu (Michael Riehle)
Subject: Re: (F) Snake Head fish- What is it???
X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University
	of Denver for the Denver community.  The University has neither
	control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users.
Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept.
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 92 00:21:56 GMT


Bob,

  Snakeheads are large, mean, decidedly piscivorous fish.  Even your
"agressive" tank is probably too timid for this guy.  My memory isn't
exact on this, but I seem to recall that snakeheads exceed 36" at maximum
length.

--No sig this week.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: boggs@agps.lanl.gov (Marsha topgun/ne)
Subject: Filter media
Organization: A-10, LANL
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1992 20:27:36 GMT


I recently bought a eheim canister filter for my 55 gallon tank,
which was previously filtered by a whisper 300 and a UGF. 
I am running on the ehiem only now.  The question is: How often do 
I change the filter media?  It is packed with a nylon net thing for 
coarse filtration, then a huge bag of activated charcoal and topped with floss.

The nylon net can just be rinsed to preserve the biological
bacteria, but how often to replace the charcoal (how long is the
charcoal good for anyway?), and floss since I can't see inside the filter to 
see how much crud is building up.	

I can't get over the amount of charcoal in this thing (I purchased it
prepacked) after the small amount used in the whisper 300's bio bags.


--Marsha
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                     boggs@agps.lanl.gov (505) 665-6606
Los Alamos National Laboratory, P.O. Box 1663  MS J488  Los Alamos, NM 87545
From: putzolu@toadflax.cs.ucdavis.edu (David Putzolu)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Algae Blennies? (M)
Date: 11 Nov 92 02:57:16 GMT
Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of California, Davis

Hello all. Just went by one of the local fish stores & they have
a big shipment of fish that just came in. Included in the saltwater
part were some "algae blennies". Light brown/rey colored blennies,
3" - 5" in length. I observed them eating brown hairlike algae
from all over the tank, somewhat like a pl*co, but marine & much
more actively. Can anyone tell me about these guys (nothing in
my three fish books w/pictures could be found).

1) What temperature do they like? From their bland coloration I
   would assume temperate. 
2) What algaes do they eat? Will they harm my macroalgae?
3) How well would they do in my reef-in-process? Would they harm
   invertebrates, large or small? How about macroalgae?
4) What is their diet once they eat all the algae available? Will
   what I feed my other fish (formulae 1&2, nauplii, brine shrimp,
   occasional varied worms, fresh seafood, etc) do the trick?

Thanks all. I _really_ liked the look of this fish, but don't want
to buy one if it would be unhappy in my tank, or my tank would be
unhappy with it.

| David M. A. Putzolu               | putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu               |
| Senior, CS & Psych, U.C. Davis    | op disclaimer(opinion : ptr mine)    |
| "Put your hand on the TV screen and repeat after me: I do hereby promise |
| only to watch the Ren & Stimpy show,  to make underleg noises during the |
| good scenes,  to wear unwashed lederhosen  every single day  of the rest |
| of my life! That's it! You are in our secret club!"                      |