HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: michal+@cs.cmu.edu (Michal Prussak)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Date: 14 Sep 92 14:32:43 GMT
Article-I.D.: cs.BuKoEK.C31.2
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

In article <basiji.716269296@milton> basiji@milton.u.washington.edu (David Basiji) writes:
>
>You may not believe this but I think the *absolute* best book as
>an introduction to auto mechanics is the "Idiot's Guide" to Volkswagen
>repair. The exact title escapes me but it's something like, "How to
>repair your Volkswagen, a guide for the compleat idiot" and it's put
>out by the John Muir Press. This is the _air-cooled_ version, not the
>later one for the rabbit, et al.  
>
>Phenomenally skillful, humorous, and transparent writing and illustration.
>Truly one of my favorite books on any subject.

I'll second this recommendation - I have a book in the same series for
78-83 (?) Hondas and it really helped me through a lot of repairs.
After 2 years of using this book, I begin understanding what the
Haynes manual is talking about. (Haynes manual is a good complement to
this book, although hard to understand for a newbie, it is far more
complete, including wiring diagrams and things like transmission
overhaul). I like this book particularly because it has 1-2 paragraphs
on every step as opposed to 1 line in other manuals. It tells exactly
which bolts to undo, with what wrenches, and it mentions the pitfalls
to avoid.

Unfortunately, as far as I know, these idiot books were only written
for 10 year old Hondas and Volkswagens...

Michal
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: nbrotz@poplar15 (Norb Brotz)
Subject: Re: A/C manifold gauges question
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Date: 9 Sep 92 18:22:17 CDT

Sorry about the previous mispost (Yea, the newsreader did it :^))

mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) writes:
: 
: I concur with James Swonger's comments on A/C gage pressures and
: diagnosis.  The inner R12 scale can also be used for a quick charge
: check.  That scale basically indicates the temperature of R12 that
: would give that pressure reading.
:
: In the early morning a car usually has had time to cool down to
: ambient temperature overnight and it is not yet being heated up by
: the sun.  Threfore the ambient temperature is usually the same as
: the temperature of the A/C system.  If you connect the gage at this
: time, the inner R12 reading should match the ambient temperature
: if your have a sufficient charge.  
: 
: If the indicated R12 temperature is less, you are undercharged.
: If the indicated R12 temperature is more, you are overcharged. 
: Rather simple and you don't have to deal with those higher running
: pressures. This method is not precise (doesn't actually tell how much
: freon to add/subtract) but is the next best thing to watching a sight
: glass for bubbles.
: 
: regards, Mark    (mark@wdc.sps.mot.com)  Tempe, AZ

I interpreted this to mean that you testing with the A/C turned off.
The above test really isn't adequate. This is because the normal system
contains a combination of saturated R-12 vapor and liquid R-12 (with
some oil mixed in).  The pressure in the system is then that of the
saturated R-12 vapor. If the pressure is lower, either the gauge is
busted or there is no liquid R-12 in the system. If the pressure is
higher, then either the gauge is busted or there is another gas (air)
mixed in with the R-12. You really have to measure the running system.

Norb Brotz 
nbrotz@cray.com
Obviously my personal opinions, having nothing to do with reality.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
Subject: Re: Motor oil is motor oil... or is it?
Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 00:51:29 GMT

In article <nataraja.716161135@lead5> nataraja@rtsg.mot.com (Kumaravel Natarajan) writes:
>QUESTION: Is it bad to go from one kind of oil (say crude to
>Mobile 1)  How about mixing the two?  The back of the Mobile 1
>bottle says it's "fully compatible with conventional oils".
>Anyone know?

It certainly doesn't hurt anything to go from dinosaur oil to
synthetic.  In fact most synthetic oil makers used to recommend
waiting until the engine was broken in to start using synthetics,
because the lubrication was so good the piston rings would never seat!
I don't know what they're recommending now.

Switching back to dinosaur oil after synthetic shouldn't hurt
anything, but you obviously lose the advantages of the synthetic oil.
And mixing them is OK according to most manufacturers, but the
benefits are reduced proportionately.  That is, you wind up with an
oil that has most of dinosaur oil's properties and most of synthetic's
expense.

 -- Chuck Fry  Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: epc1@quads.uchicago.edu (Merlin)
Subject: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Reply-To: epc1@midway.uchicago.edu
Organization: University of Chicago Computing Organizations
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1992 20:10:20 GMT


If I were to recommend THE authoratative book on C shell scripts, I 
would recommend The C Shell Fild Guide;  on C programming language, 
K & R's The C Programming Language;  on motif programming, Heller's
Motif programming Guide; on investments, Graham's The Intelligent
Investor....


What is/are THE authoritative book/s on automobile mechanics.  I would
like to learn both theory and practical instruction.  My goal
is to be better than 80% of the auto mechanics.  How do auto mechanics
learn their trade?  (besides hands-on experience).

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

-- 
En Pum Cho					
University of Chicago Class of 1994
math & economics major
epc1@midway.uchicago.edu
From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: 323 fails to start
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1992 23:08:00 -0500

 > Hey netters, my friend's 88' Mazada 323 sometime fails to
 > start although
 > most of the time it works just fine.  When it fails, there
 > is no response at
 > all after turning the key.  Lights on dash lit up but the
 > starter was
 > working at all.  What could be the trouble?  Thanks.  :-)
 >
 
try making sure the cables to the battery are clean and tight...it 
also could be a short in the battery it's self...



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin)
Subject: Re: Aftermarket turbo kits
Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 15:35:13 GMT

In article <BuC218.5oz@cup.hp.com> dhepner@cup.hp.com (Dan Hepner) writes:
>From: serafin@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Mike Serafin)
>
>>>>Why don't you just trade your car in on one with the factory turbo?
>>
>>>I second this motion. 
>
>>Ok, but where do I find a factory built turbocharged F250 4x4, 460ci, 5sp,
>>pickup?  
>
>Buy a Dodge.
>

If I wanted a diesel I would.
From: dug@athena.cs.uga.edu (Douglas Brown)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Supercharged vehicles
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:12:21 GMT
Article-I.D.: athena.1992Sep8.161221.28786
Distribution: rec.autos, rec.autos.tech, rec.autos.sport
Organization: University of Georgia, Athens

I've been hearing some about the new "supercharged vehicles."

Does anyone out there have any comments on these.  Are they good?  Are they
bad?  Compared with a turbo charger?  What does everyone think?

I know of the Ford Thunderbird SuperCoupe, Pontiac SSEI, Buick Park Avenue
Ultra, and a few more are supercharged.  Are there anymore?

dug
From: pzh@myna.dsto.gov.au (Paul Heuer)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Supercharged vehicles
Date: 14 Sep 92 20:33:20 GMT

danapple@vicor.com writes:

< lots of stuff deleted >

>Max, as in Mad Max, had a clutch on his supercharger.  The first

That was movie land! The supercharger has two rotors with very small gaps
between them and the casing walls. If you disengage the drive to the blower
you will all but stop the flow of fuel and air into the motor. That is one of
the big drawbacks of supercharging - the blower is always running and taking
power from the motor. Don't get me wrong, I love the sound of a blown motor
(V8 preferably), and the blower should last longer than a turbo as it spins at
about the same speed as the crankshaft and doesn't get as hot.
Now if the car makers had put the same amount of thought into supercharging that
they put into turbocharging many of these problems would be solved by now.

Cheers,
Paul.

Paul Heuer,                                     E-mail : pzh@aeg.dsto.gov.au
Avionics Engineering Group                      Phone  : +61 8 259 6453
Aeronautical Research Laboratory                FAX    : +61 8 259 5507
Defence Science and Technology Organisation     Post   : Bld 37 TSAS
AUSTRALIA                                                PO Box 1550 Salisbury
                                                         South Australia 5108
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Subject: Re: Snow Tires
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 16:08:55 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.164545.1@vmsb.is.csupomona.edu> cvetp034@vmsb.is.csupomona.edu (Mike Cancellier) writes:
>I am moving to North Dakota next year and need some recommendations on snow
>tires.  I have lived in Southern California all my life and have no idea about
>conditions there in the winter. Please email responses
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Mike
>-- 
>
Hey Mike,
	Good luck!  Having spent a couple of years in South Dakota before coming
to Indiana, I can tell you that winters up there are terrible.  However, the local
people know how to handle it very well and you will find that everyone knows
what to do differently in the snow.  I don't know the laws in the place you will
go, but many people I knew opted for chains over snow tires.  I simply had all
seasons on front wheel drive cars and was able to move adequately.  I do think
that snow tires are a good idea but if you have a rear wheel drive car you will
have some tricky times ahead.  Four wheel drive is best IMHO but FWD is second.
I don't have any particular brand to recommend and since you will only need these
tires for a few months out of the year, you will be able to use them for many
seasons.  Therefore, you might want to spend more initially realizing that you
won't have to replace them every 30 - 50K miles you actually put on the car.

		--Michael Buening
		internet:mikeb@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
From: sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Messy Valve Cover
Date: 14 Sep 92 11:52:45 GMT
Distribution: usa

In article <183468@pyramid.pyramid.com>, ihusain@pyramid.COM (Intisar Husain) writes:
> I just bought an 84 mixima, and was doing valve adjustment.
> Found almost 1.5" in diameter of carbon stones under valve cover.
> I cleaned as many as possible, but I am wondering where do they come
> from, and is it ok to clean it by opening the oil pan from the bottom
> and then clean the overhead cam with somekind of solvent.
> Thanks
> Intisar.
     I would not advise doing that.  If you pour solvent into the engine you
will loosen up a lot of sludge.  All this sludge will not come out durring your
cleaning, it will mix with your oil and clog up the oil filter and the screen
in the pickup of the oil pump.  If this happens a loss of oil pressure will
occur which will damage your engine.

                                         mike sylvester
                                         sylveste@ecs.umass.edu
From: sgm@otter.hpl.hp.com (Steve Methley)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Advice on white exhaust fumes
Date: 8 Sep 92 14:59:13 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Bristol, UK.

I always thought that, with a warm engine:

black smoke = soot, rich mixture
blue smoke = oil, worn engine
white smoke = steam:

I suggest your head gasket leaks, not surprising after 165k miles!

Cheers,
Steve.
From: dsivewright@vax1.umkc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: NEED HELP - PARTS SUPPLIERS RESEARCH
Date: 12 Sep 92 19:17:22 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri - Kansas City

Does anyone of know where I can find information/resources concerning part
suppliers in the U.S. and around the world?  Are there trade magazines that I
can get that publish statistical data about who supplies whom, who makes what,
where major parts manufacturers are located, etc.  
Yeah - this is for a grad research project and NO - I don't know shit about 
cars!
Anyone supplying info will have my undying appreciation and will have my first
born son/daughter named after them.
E-Mail is best as I don't get to read NEWS often but post all the flames you 
want about grad students who are stupid enough to take courses outside their
discipline.
Really - if anyone just has an idea as to where I can get started it would sure
help - thanks to all kind souls in advance,
					   DSIVEWRIGHT@VAX1.UMKC.EDU
From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: What's a good one??? was Re: CLUB Story
Date: 4 Sep 92 21:53:54 GMT
Article-I.D.: research.1992Sep4.215354.2347
Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc.

In article <1992Sep2.092607.282@lrc.edu> little_re@lrc.edu writes:
>    Allright, so what is the best way to deter a thief??  I've considered
>a Club-type device, but like someone said earlier, just cut the steering
>wheel.  I've considered an alarm, but don't have the money right now.  
>Is there a good, inexpensive way to make a thief look at somebody else's
>car??

	Someone suggested removing the computer and carrying it with you.
Someone else suggested removing the coil wire and carrying it with you.  Both
options seriously disable the car, although professionals could very easily
start carrying spare coil wires and computers.

	At any rate, all but the most sophisticated thieves (read: all of the
teenage joyriders in Newark, NJ) will be deterred by the above two methods.

	Note that the car CANNOT be started w/o both the computer and the
coil wire in place.  It has to be towed.

YMMV,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114   1983 Harley-Davidson FXWG Wide Glide (She lives!)
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	   (I need another bike for this space!)

Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC agree with any of this anyway?
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: brooks@mcnc.org (Ted Brooks)
Subject: Re: Good books to learn auto mechanics?
Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1992 17:26:57 GMT

In article <1992Sep14.063101.4193@osf.org> kenny@osf.org (Kenneth Crudup) writes:
>gave me a $700 repair estimate for a 15-year old $400 car. Now, I curse at and
>bang on other folks' cars, and they even *work* afterwards. Mostly, though,
>JG DeArmond is right about intuition. Stuff like this tends to come naturally


Intuition is often times what ocurs the second time you do a job, after you
learned the hard way the first time :-)

Sometimes, intuition can be "learned" from experience. I think lack of 
Lack of intuition is often times caused by people not learning from the first
time around, or not having a sufficient knowledge base to draw from, or simply
refusing to THINK before they act.

Enough of educational theory :-)

To learn to fix cars is much like learning many other skills. Read. Analyze.
Assimilate knowledge. PRACTICE - time and again. Know when you're getting
in over your head, and ask for help, or wait till tomorrow, when the problem
may look a whole lot clearer. Seek out a mentor if possible.  And take your
time. Haste makes waste may be a cliche, but it's true.

Maybe I have "the gift" of intuition, or maybe just an intense interest in
understanding things mechanical. But I taught myself to fix cars by reading
every book in the public library on the topic while in junior & senior high
school. Then, when friends who had cars but little knowledge were stumped by
routine repairs, I would say, "I know how to do that! You just....". Amazed 
at my skill & knowledge  :-)  they would ask me to fix it for/with them, 
little suspecting that I had only _read_ how to do the job, never having
actually _done_ it before.  Still, we managed to fix most stuff without
screwing it up. 
 
Ted Brooks
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Disclaimer: The opinions expressed are my own, and do not reflect    |
| those of my employer. Advice is free, but you get what you pay for.  |
|                               ________                               |
|                         _____|  1955  |_______                       |
|                        /      Chevrolet      /                       |
|                       /______  BelAir  _____/                        |
|                              |________|                              |
|______________________________________________________________________|
From: neilw@informix.com (Neil Williams)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Dirty oil after change?
Date: 7 Sep 92 17:30:24 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

My SO recently had her oil changed at a local gas station.  When I went
with her to pick up her car, I took a look at the dipstick.

I was very surprised to see that the oil still looked pretty dirty.
I've never checked her oil immediately after a change before 
(she has an '89 prelude), but I know that my oil looks clear and
brand-new after a change.  Unfortunately, I did not check her oil
prior to the change.

Questioning the mechanic, he said something to the effect that you
can never get out all the old oil and it mixes with the new to make
it look dirty.  I didn't buy his story, and suspect we were charged
for service not performed, or they didn't change the filter.

Is the mechanic correct, or am I right to be suspicious?  Oh, previously
the oil hadn't been changed for about 5k miles.

Thanks,

--Neil
-- 
Neil Williams: neilw@informix.com

Seen on my last trip on United: "If you are seated in an exit row 
and can not (sic) read this card... please notify a crew member."
From: Michel_Denber.WBST147@XEROX.COM
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Brake Disc Tolerences: Correction
Date: 11 Sep 92 14:44:00 GMT

I want to make a correction to a message I sent out earlier this week about the
disc tolerences on my car ('88 Celebrity).  As someone pointed out, I got
carried away with zeros.  So, let's see if I can get it right this time: the
limit on lateral runout is four thousandths of an inch, which should be 0.004",
and the limit on thickness variation is one half of one thousandth, or 0.0005"
(three zeros - not whatever I wrote before).  Can you tell I scored higher on
the SAT verbal than math?

			- Michel

denber.wbst147@xerox.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: disc braks again
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 09:27:55 -0500

 LB> This is correct (according to an article in _Machine Design_ #12 1992
 LB> reference issue).  An added note: when the vehicle is moving forward
 LB> the servo action tends to engage the front shoe and disengage the back
 LB> shoe.  And vice versa when going in reverse.  My guess is this is why
 LB> the front shoe is typically larger than the back shoe (you do less
 LB> backing than forward, and reverse speeds are much lower than forward
 LB> speeds).  Of course, just because the back shoe tends to be disengaged
 LB> doesn't mean it doesn't contribute toward the braking effort (it does).

None of this was true for Mercedes. All shoes were the same size, but usually
with different lining compounds on front vs rear (and at times, two different
compounds on the same shoe). Front shoes were usually made from aluminum,
whereas rear shoes were cast iron. Fronts always had two leading shoes, whereas
rears had one leading and one trailing. Smaller diameter wheel cylinders were
used on the rear.



Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: gdj1@cec1.wustl.edu (Gary Dewayne Johnson)
Subject: 1989 Olds Calais - Quad 4 Problem
Followup-To: gdj1@cec1.wustl.edu
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1992 17:09:06 GMT

I have noticed this problem for a couple of months now.  I don't
understand it, so any advice would be appreciated.

This is the problem:

	Sometimes, when I am going about 20 - 30 miles per hour,
	and I decide to speed up, say to pass, it will hesitate
	for a second.  I think this is actually a need for a tune-up.

	Another problem occured the other day (Saturday) when I
	stopped to talk to someone for a second.  The car idled for 
	about 2 minutes, when I went to leave, it sort of backfired
	and then it took off like normal.  I say sort of, because
	it was a small backfire.  Could this be an exhaust problem,
	or even worse, a head gasket blowing.  I don't think it is a 
	head gasket, because I have lost no coolant since I bought the
	the car eight months ago.

	Finally, when travelling at about 38 - 42 miles per hour,
	and I start going up a hill, it will stutter and then finally
	select 2nd gear.  I think this is just the fact that this is
	a bad gear ratio selection (too wide) on the three speed 
	automatic transaxle.  I wish it was a closer ratio four speed
	automatic transaxle, this would make the car accelerate better
	and probably eliminate this hesitancy in gear selection.

Gary J
Graduate - EE
gdj1@cec1.wustl.edu

PS - Response by e-mail preferred, but not necessary since I
     read the group regularly.
From: limpach@elvis.CWRU.Edu (Pat Limpach)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Geo Prizm tranny leak
Date: 14 Sep 1992 22:57:48 GMT
Organization: Information Network Services, Case Western Reserve
Distribution: world
Reply-To: limpach@po.CWRU.Edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: elvis.ins.cwru.edu


Hello all,

 My friend has a 1990 Geo prizm with a slow leak in the automatic 
 transmission- it appears to be seeping around the gasket seal and 
 through the bolt holes holding the cover on.  The car is close to 
 the end of it's warranty (47K mi.) and she would like to get it fixed 
 before the end of the warranty if it needs it.
 
 The dealer claimed it was "normal seepage", but drips form in one or two
 days, and this doesn't seem normal to me.

 Should the dealer replace the gasket,or  should I just make sure the bolts
 are tightened to spec.?
-- 
Patrick Limpach      .      .      "I like to have a machine named elvis on 
CWRUnet Network Engineer    .      my network.  That way, when I ping it, it
216-368-2982   pjl4@po.cwru.edu    comes back with 'elvis is alive'  " -?
limpach@po.cwru.edu
Xref: sparky rec.autos.tech:12422 misc.consumers:16360
From: wagener@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Pamela Pincha-Wagener)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,misc.consumers
Subject: Re: Rain-X leaving cruddy film on windows?
Date: 9 Sep 92 20:55:49 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Distribution: usa
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle

ybsim@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Yah-Bin Sim) writes:

>In article <1891n7INNakv@agate.berkeley.edu> abulloch@garnet.berkeley.edu (Anthony Bulloch) writes:
>>In article <1992Sep4.220209.9491@icus.ICUS.COM> 
>>lenny@icus.ICUS.COM (Lenny Tropiano) writes:
>>
>>>I just applied some Rain-X to my windows, and it seems after a day or
>>>two a dry-film of some sort appeared on the windows, side windows and
>>>the sunroof.  Has anyone else had this experience?  

The only time I've had that happen is when I didn't buff off
the Rain-X film that forms after it dries (sort of like
with any polish.) I've never had any problems with it after a
couple of days. I'd try cleaning and reapplying according
to the directions.  I really love how well the stuff works.
Believe me, living in Seattle gives me more than enough
wet conditions to test it with.  The only gripes I have
with Rain-X is that one can't put it on a wet windshield,
and it doesn't last as long in really wet weather.