HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sjg@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Steve Greenwald)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: BEWARE OF HEATING PADS!
Keywords: heating, pad, light, rock, sizzle
Date: 9 Apr 92 20:16:17 GMT
Organization: Univ. of Florida CIS Dept.

In article <aQj+Ck@engin.umich.edu> ftit@fraser.engin.umich.edu (Sergej Roytman) writes:
>
>In article <1992Apr4.145555.25181@athena.cs.uga.edu>, weaver@castor.cs.uga.edu (Mike Weaver) writes:
>|
>|I too had a snake get burned by a malfunctioning heating pad. STAY AWAY FROM
>|THEM!
>|
>
>I've been following this thread for a while; pity about the animals lost
>to or damaged by shorted-out heating pads.  I wonder, why not install a
>fuse inline to prevent overheating?  It's simple: just crank the pad up to
>the maximum expected heat-setting, measure the current going through it,
>get a fuse rated at a little above this current, and splice it in.  Now if
>your heating pad starts drawing more power than it should, your fuse blows
>and the thing turns off.

I think that this is a great idea.  The only thing I'd like to add is
that it would be extremely easy for some entrepreneur to make an inline
fuse assembly that has a long plug at one end (to go into the wall outlet)
and had a socket at the other (to plug the heating pad into).  That way
a splice could be avoided.

I might make one of these.  All I'd need would be a short extension
cord and an inline fuse holder plus fuse.  That way, if the heating
pad ever broke, just throw it away and plug a new one into the fuse
holder.

Determining the maximum current is a little trickier for this method 
since different heating pads would be used, but I think it is safe
to say that there should be some maximum current for a given size
heating pad that is the "danger level" for overheating.  Perhaps
some physics major could compute it?  Or perhaps even that isn't
necessary since the problem is with "hot spots" which have a 
small area.

Thinking about this, if the problem is only with hot spots then the
fuse idea might not work - the rest of the pad might be drawing
zero current and the hot spot might be drawing "normal" current but
concentrating the area so that it is dangerously hot.  Hmmm.

Perhaps a thermostatic fuse assembly placed over the heating pad would
be a better idea.  Place an array of fusible links over the pad to
cover the entire area so that if any hot spots develop the link melts
and cuts off the current.

Any electrical engineers out there?

-- 
Steve Greenwald, Ph.D. Student      Internet: sjg@cis.ufl.edu
Computer and Information Sciences
University of Florida               "The nice thing about standards is that you
Gainesville, Florida 32611          have so many to choose from". -- Tanenbaum
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: cohen@spot.Colorado.EDU (Matthew I Cohen)
Subject: My first Herp!!!  (help needed...)
Summary: beginner, help requested
Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 03:58:02 GMT

   Greetings, now-fellow herp-lovers!  I have just joined your ranks, but not
as planned as I had earlier suspected.  After my roommates had heard me
whine about whether or not to get a lizard for the past two months, they 
finally made my mind up for me and bought me a "red-headed Agama" (sp?) for
my b-day on friday.  
    Now, I've been lurking on the group for a couple weeks, so I know some
of the basics, but now I've been plunged full-force into the role of taking
care of such a pet.(which I am very psyched for!)
   first of all:  I need to find a herp-group in my area: if anyone knows of 
one in Boulder, CO, please give me a ring!

   Second:  living quarters:  the lizard is approx. 9" long from tip to tail,
and the tank is 10"x20"x12".  (I don't know the gallon measurement.)  Is this
big enough?  I think he is close to full grown (not a baby), and I can always
get something bigger later, but is this big enough 4 now?   
     I put a water bowl (big enough for him to bathe in), some sand (clean) and
a climbing branch and rock in there, which he likes.  I put a 75 watt bulb 
pointing down through the screen at the highest branch, which is where he sits.
Is this enough heat? or do I need to get a heat rock?

   Third: feeding:  He came with 12 crickets, and he ate 9 of them w/in 3 hours,
and the other 3 over that night.  should I not feed him again for a while?
Should I experiment with vegetables (lettuce, carrots, cukes, etc.) yet, or
let him settle down for a while first.  

   Fourth: Handling:  After reading the group for a while, I have refrained 
from trying to pick him up so far, and I'll probably wait a couple more days.
My roommates said that the pet-shop owner said that this species takes well to
handling, and he won't bite once he gets used to it.  Can anyone confirm/dispute
this?  

   Five: Identification:  does anyone have any information on this species? 
Also, how can I tell sex/age of my herp?

Thanx very much to people, and I apoligize in advance for the length of this
post, but I just deleted the monthly postings and FAQ's before I got my herp!!!
I also am very psyched/nervous about taking care of this 'lil guy, so I want
to get all the info I can.  

BTW, what was that lizard care book you guys recomend?  or is that only for
iguannas? 


Thanx again, and feel free to email/post as you decide.

Matt Cohen - recent inductee to the ranks of the herp-lovers!
Cohen@spot.colorado.edu
-- 
 Matthew Cohen  -+- a.k.a. Silver Sword!    : (Personality-indicitive quote) 
 Cohen@spot.colorado.edu - home machine     :  REALITY is for those people   
 1220 26th, Boulder, CO, 80302 -slow machine:    who can't handle FANTASY!   
          (303) 449-9035 -answering machine :                       -M.C.      
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri)
Subject: Re: Timor and other Pythons
Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 04:39:12 GMT
X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer
              Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and
              not necessarily those of CONVEX.

>>Spotted Python (Liasis maculosus)
>>Water Python (Liasis fuscus)

I've since seen photographs of these.  The photo that I saw depicted
them as brownish with lighter spots.  The guy with the huge atlas containing
the picture recognized the former as "Macklot's Python" and said that they
were fairly nasty, like their kin the Amethystine Python, and that most
Australian pythons (eg., liasis spp.) were nasty, except for the Children's
(which at a reputed 4 feet are smaller than I'm after) and the Carpet/Diamond,
which I'm avidly seeking.

>My best boa/python reference is: PYTHONS and BOAS by Peter J. Stafford, T.F.H.
>Publications, Inc. Ltd, 1986.

-- 


======================================================8--<
From: jb6k+@andrew.cmu.edu (Joel Bloch)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: BEWARE OF HEATING PADS!
Date: 6 Apr 92 18:49:12 GMT
 <seedman.702279627@vincent1.iastate.edu> 
 <1992Apr3.075423.9113@u.washington.edu> <1992Apr4.145555.25181@athena.cs.uga.edu><aQj+Ck@engin.umich.edu>
Organization: Doctoral student, English, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA

Would surge surpressors used with computers work in the same way? They
have fuses that are supposed to blow.
From: adam@zooid.guild.org (Adam Lawrence Salter)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Leopard Frog Chow!
Date: 15 Apr 92 22:53:52 GMT

From: gecko@zooid.guild.org (GECKO)
>
>        Frogkeeper writes:
> 
>>guess the subject says it all...I have him and I'm curious 
>>and what do I keep him/her in?  All water, 1/2 and 1/2? 
>>Thanks, 
>
>        The main diet of wild leopard frogs is grasshoppers, but
>they'll also eat earthworms, flies, spiders, and crickets (which can
>be bought at many pet stores).  Food must at least LOOK alive: if no
>live food is available sometimes liver or beefheart on
>a string/broomstraw does the job.
>
>         An aquarium WITH A TIGHT LID should be fine, but they like
>room to to leap (20-gallon at least if you plan on keeping it for
>any length of time).  Half water, half land is fine or a large water
>dish with the water changed DAILY. 
>
>         Some wild-caught individuals do not adapt too well to
>captivity.  If it doesn't eat, let it go.  Even if it does eat,
>consider releasing it.  That is all...
>
>                                                - GECKO
>
>
>gecko@zooid.guild.org


   As gecko said, the main diet of WILD leopard frogs is insects,
etc. Keeping a frog in an aquarium and feeding it live insects, etc.
is NOTHING like the wild! Do not play GOD and decide what it eats
and how it lives. The best thing to do would be to LET IT GO in the
WILD! Catching and keeping a WILD frog for a little while and then
releasing it is not that terrible, although it is extremely
interfering and sadistically cruel. PLEASE don't keep it for the
rest of it's life! Is the frog WILD? I've rarely seen domestic
leopard frogs. They DO NOT make good pets. You would probably be
better off with a domestic animal. Leopard frogs are not exactly
hardy animals. The population of leopard frogs in the wild is
rapidly decreasing in many places. Gecko has kept wild frogs and
other wild animals many times. He's kept them either until they die
or he decides to release them. He doesn't keep wild animals anymore
(although he is a bit hypocritical, considering that he keeps wild
caught fish).

  I'll PAY you to let the frog go! 

  I am not trying to control what you do, just encouraging you not
to control the frogs life.

   

                                                 -adam


                 "Controlled folly  doesn't mean to con people."
 
                                            -Florinda
From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: What do you feed a leopard frog---QUICK!
Date: 15 Apr 92 16:23:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <1992Apr14.222129.6123@news.eng.convex.com>, datri@convex.com (Anthony A. Datri) writes...
>>that may be helpful.  Water wise, I'd set him up in a terrarium (as opposed
>>to an aquarium).
> 
>Which means what?

   A terarium is a tank with a dry bottom - and aquarium is filled
with water.  You want the tank to be mostly dry, with a pool (usually
just a dish or bowl of water).  Don't want to drown the froggy.

					Pete

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . I've stopped looking for a job...
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .    I'm now begging for one!!!
From: stevep@wrq.com (Steve Poole)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Re: Constipation Again
Date: 10 Apr 92 20:20:13 GMT
Organization: Walker Richer & Quinn

In article <Qdsnima00VpPENDmBQ@andrew.cmu.edu>, "Jennifer E. Swofford" <jsap+@andrew.cmu.edu> writes:
> 
> For a little over a month, probably 5 weeks, my iguana, Savros, has been
> constipated.  She used to 'go' once a day, sometimes skipping a day. 
> Now, she's 'going' about once every 5 or 6 days.  
> 
> Now, here's the thing.  Well, the things.  About 5 weeks ago was when I
> stopped giving her Romaine Lettuce.  She loved the stuff, but, I just

I wonder if she's not getting enough water in her diet without the lettuce.
That's about all lettuce has in it, and maybe Savros' eating habits were
tuned to this large amount of water.

That's pure conjecture; it may not even make sense.  Kale is pretty high
in H2O; perhaps you should try lots of that for a while.
  - Steve

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- INTEL 80x86: Just say NOP -- Internet: stevep@wrq.com -- AOL: Spoole -- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mdtaylor@wc.novell.com (Mark D. Taylor)
Subject: Re: reinhardtii (was Re: Lucky herp)
Organization: Novell, Inc.  Walnut Creek, CA
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1992 23:47:04 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.224004.16874@odin.corp.sgi.com>, larissa@finance.esd.sgi.com (Larissa Williams) writes:
> 
> |> >> but they just call it a "Rubber Snake" and list the proper name (Calibari
> |> >> rheinharti ?) to avoid hassles.
> |> > 
> |> >Ross lists _Calabaria_reinhardtii_ as "African burrowing python".  As of
> |> >1990, no successful captive breedings had been recorded.  Dark grey/black
> |> >with orange/light brown speckles, no apparent neck.
> |> 
> |>    My guess is that it is a rubber boa.  I don't have my herp books
> |> here, but I believe they are indigenous to northwest Mexico and/or
> |> southwest US.
> |> 
> 
> It does sound like a rubber boa.  To my extreme disappointment, it _is_
> indigenous to those areas.  I've always wanted one, but since the rubber
> boa lives in California, it is illegal to buy one here.  Plus which, it
> is a 'threatened' species (I think).  In general, rubber boas are a very
> small boa, maxing out at three feet.  They are very friendly and if you
> wear them as wristlets, they'll sit there all day.
> 
> Smiles.
> 

What sounds like a Rubber Boa?  Seems the sign in the pet shop sim-
ultaneously identified it as Rubber Boa and Calabaria reinhardtii. Is
it a Rubber Boa (Charina bottae), or is it an African Burrowing Python
(Calabaria reinhardtii)?  This is like labelling it "Nile Monitor (Iguana
Iguana)".  The two don't seem to look much alike (he said, comparing
admittedly weak color plates), and then there are little matters like
Boa or Python, North America or Africa, Temperate or Tropical, plus
eating, drinking, and reproductive behaviors.

Anthony, what did you see?  I've forgotten the whole point of this
thing, BTW.  What were you originally asking about?  Let's start
over.  Were you as confused then as I am now?

More smiles.  Smiles until my face hurts.  :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

mdt
mdtaylor@wc.novell.com
From: eide@plains.NoDak.edu (Jason Eide)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: Iguans: dead or alive
Date: 7 Apr 92 15:39:31 GMT
Article-I.D.: plains.16506
Distribution: usa
Organization: North Dakota State University, Fargo

From pmitchel@locus.nalusda.gov Mon Apr  6 13:05:32 1992
Received: from noc.sura.net by plains.NoDak.edu; Mon, 6 Apr 1992 13:05:29 -0500
Received: from [192.54.138.46] by noc.sura.net with SMTP
 for eide@plains.NoDak.edu
 id AA09962 (5.65+/(SURAnet $Revision: 1.27 $)); Mon, 6 Apr 92 14:05:21 -0400
Received: by locus.nalusda.gov (4.1/SMI-4.1)
	id AA11228; Mon, 6 Apr 92 14:04:01 EDT
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 92 14:04:01 EDT
From: pmitchel@locus.nalusda.gov (Pam Mitchelle)
Message-Id: <9204061804.AA11228@locus.nalusda.gov>
To: eide@plains.NoDak.edu
Status: R

jason,
  
your posting about the ailing iguana struck a nerve.  I basically hate pet
shops...the ones that stand out in memory are the ones in which i *DON'T*
observe mistreated herps.  I try to frequent those.  Unfortunately the one
closest to my home, and with the best supply of pinkies, is the worst
offender I know.  Every time I go there I get a sick feeling of dread, my
stomach knots up, wondering if the skeletal collared lizards are still hanging
on, if there'll be carcasses littering the floor of the anoles' tank.  
Will the iguanas have something besides lettuce in their food bowl?
  
I have spoken up from time to time...the people working there vary in their
attitudes.  One woman immediately responded when I pointed out that the
gecko was licking his dry water bowl.  Another guy gave me a curt monosyllabic
reply when I asked if a tank of hungry-appearing lizards had been given      	food lately, then walked away.  The manager of the store appears to be so
arrogantly smart-ass that I don't think I'd ever say anything to him.
  
I know I should boycott this place, or be more insistent that they shape up.
What I don't understand is, are they cruel or just ignorant?  Even cat/dog
owners must glance occasionally at this shop's herps and be disgusted...

Lately I've been thinking that since I'm too chicken to make a big stink, I'll
write down all my comments and slyly tape it to the next tank of abused herps 
I see there.  I know this is cowardly, but I feel the manager of this shop 
would enjoy ripping into me if I criticized him.  As for whether pet shops
HAVE to try and keep animals alive...well, this manager has allowed a tank
of 4 obviously diseased Texas collared lizards to die off, slowly, one by
one, for months now....my guess is he figures someone *MIGHT* buy them, and
he can recoup some of his investment.  The idiot!  Though I admit I've been
tempted to rescue them.
  
An exotic pet store I get most of my herps at has _given_ me animals that
weren't doing well...only after trying first to _sell_ them to me!	

BTW, if you want you can post this to the net.  I can read (ftp) but not 
post, yet.  Hope your posting brings some interesting/inspiring replies!
  
pam
No. Virginia/ D.C. area
.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: pholland@iastate.edu (Paul J Hollander)
Subject: Re: new garder snake
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 15:49:03 GMT

In article <92104.235637TJS119@psuvm.psu.edu> <TJS119@psuvm.psu.edu> writes:
>Hi!  I'm thinking about getting a garter snake, but I really can't find that mu
>ch info on them.  They books galore on boas or pythons, but not a poor garder.

I've kept plent of garters, _Thamnophis sirtalis_ and _T. radix_. They are 
alert, moderately active snakes that are very hardy and generally adapt well 
to captivity.  Good beginner snakes; I started with one.  See Conant's _Field 
Guide to the Reptiles and Amphibians of the Eastern United States and Canada_ 
(Peterson Field Guide Series) and Raymond Ditmars' _Reptiles of North America_ 
and Wright and Wright's _Handbook of Snakes_ for natural history.  Try your 
university library.  If you can find it, Fitch did a terrific paper named
(approximately) "The natural history of the redsided gartersnake _Thamnophis 
sirtalis parietalis_ in Kansas" back in the 50's or 60s.  It's in the 
Miscellaneous Publications of the University of Kansas Museum of Natural 
History.

> So can I keep him in a 5 gal aquarium.  Is it big enough?  

You can keep a small one in a 5 gal aquarium, but a 10 is better.

>Will he eat crickets?  

Nope.  Try earthworms, fish (feeder goldfish or baitstore minnows), or small 
frogs.  If these are are hard to get, get something else that's easier to feed.

>The one book I saw said they love earthworms, but I can't get earthworms.
>What's the deal on the heat rocks?  Since so many people say 'Bad Bad!' 
>what else could I use? A lamp?  Will he get really tame? 

Garters never get as tame as a corn (for example).  But they generally get
fairly easy to handle.  A heating pad *under* *part* of the cage works fairly
well and isn't too expensive.  Turn it off at night to give them a natural
temperature cycle.

>And finally, are ribbon snakes better for beginners than garders? 

No.  My understanding is that they are more nervous and harder to feed than
the eastern garter, _T. sirtalis_.  Ribbons are another species of 
_Thamnophis_, but I'd stick to one of the many subspecies of _T. sirtalis_,
at least to start.

>Oh also, can some one please tell me of a
>good book to read on general care herpology and one on snake keeping?  

I'm not up on the most recent ones.  Can anyone comment on Chris Mattison's
_Keeping Snakes from A-Z_?

Paul Hollander    pholland@iastate.edu
Behold the tortoise: he makes no progress unless he sticks his neck out.
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: mdtaylor@wc.novell.com (Mark D. Taylor)
Subject: Re: Armadillo Lizard?
Organization: Novell, Inc.  Walnut Creek, CA
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1992 17:03:23 GMT

In article <1992Apr9.184038.13387@ra.msstate.edu>, Auferret@CVMMDL1.MSstate.EDU (Jennifer Au) writes:
> 
> 
>     I had a pet lizard that I got from a yard sale about 10 years ago. The 
> people selling it said it was an Armadillo Lizard. Has anyone ever heard of
> these? I've checked several pet stores and books and can't find anything on
> them. He was about a foot long, brown with scales/plates (?) that came to a
> point at the sides. His tail had points down the top and sides. His belly
> was soft, smooth and a black/brown color. Does anyone own one of these?
>             Jenny Au
> 


This sounds like Cordylus cataphractus (hope I got that just right).
A local high-priced herp shop has a some at $275 a pair.  Plated,
spiney, very cool.  Looks a little like a Uromastyx, finished. (Uro-
mastyx have spiney tails).  South African, I think.

If I can provide more info (which is truly unlikely), mail me. :-)

mdt
mdtaylor@wc.novell.com
From: v105mahs@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Peter P. Donohue)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
Subject: database of snake names
Date: 13 Apr 92 15:50:00 GMT
Organization: University at Buffalo
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41


   A while ago, someone mentioned something about posting a database of
scientific names and common names of all the snakes.  Is anything
hapenning with it?  I would still be interested in receiving a copy.
If it is printout form and needs to be entered, maybe someone has a OCR
program and scanner and can scan it in?  I could try - I have a scanner
and OCR, but have never used them.  Thanks.

                             Pete
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Peter P. Donohue - University at Buffalo, Graduate School of Management
bitnet:   V105MAHS@UBVMS                . I've stopped looking for a job...
internet: V105MAHS@UBVMS.CC.BUFFALO.EDU .    I'm now begging for one!!!
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp
From: cs4gp6ac@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (Lizard King)
Subject: Re: reinhardtii (was Re: Lucky herp)
Organization: Department of Computer Science, McMaster University
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1992 05:08:49 GMT

In article <1992Apr15.224004.16874@odin.corp.sgi.com> larissa@finance.esd.sgi.com (Larissa Williams) writes:
>|> >> but they just call it a "Rubber Snake" and list the proper name (Calibari
>|> >> rheinharti ?) to avoid hassles.
>|> > 
>|> >Ross lists _Calabaria_reinhardtii_ as "African burrowing python".  As of
>|> >1990, no successful captive breedings had been recorded.  Dark grey/black
>|> >with orange/light brown speckles, no apparent neck.
>|> 
>|>    My guess is that it is a rubber boa.  I don't have my herp books
>|> here, but I believe they are indigenous to northwest Mexico and/or
>|> southwest US.
>|> 
>
>It does sound like a rubber boa.  To my extreme disappointment, it _is_ indigenous to those areas.  I've always wanted one, but since the rubber boa lives in California, it is illegal to buy one here.  Plus which, it is a 'threatened' species (I think).  In general, rubber boas are a very small boa, maxing out at three feet.  They are very friendly and if you wear them as wristlets, they'll sit there all day.
>
>Smiles.

Hmmmm...

It seems to me that there is quite adifference between the Mexican rubber boa
(Charina bottae) and the Calabar burrowing python of Africa (Calabaria 
reinhardti).  C. reinhardti is a rich, dark brown dorsally with some lighter
blotching and the ventral surface is basically a uniform dark colour.  
C. bottae is a uniform grey/brown (light) dorsally with a paler belly.

As well, one is a boa, the other a python!  The pet store that labelled
the animal has it's wires crossed it seems.  If the common name is 
correct, then rubber boas are found through the western U.S. along the
Rocky Mountains.  I don't know if it's endangered or not, but considering
it's range, I wouldn't be surprised.

As far as keeping one (either), I'd be leery of an animal that is largely
nocturnal and likes to hide under a layer of dirt.  Might as well have a
terrarium with a plant in it! :-)

back to bed...

Richard
.
 
A
A
A
correct (or at least close) then it may indeed be 
Newsgroups: rec.pets.herp