HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: fisk@cvdv99.mayo.edu (Tom Fisk | 2D-337 STM | 5-4341)
Subject: Re: Studio Flash Kits (Q)
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Reply-To: fisk@mayo.edu
Organization: University of Arizona MIS Department - Mosaic Group
Distribution: usa
Date: 11 Dec 1992 21:47 -0700

In article <1ga2f0INNk9n@rave.larc.nasa.gov>, rlc@cyclone.larc.nasa.gov (Robin Cravey) writes...
> 
>SUBJECT: Studio Flash Kits (Q)
> 
>I'm in the market for setting up a small-scale home studio. I've been given a 
>lot of recommendations about equipment, but I've noticed a lot of ads for 
>Rokunar Studio Pro (SP) kits from various camera places (like Adorama, B&H, 
>etc.) Unfortunately, I can't find anyone who has used these or has any 
>firsthand knowledge of them. They seem to be a great buy so I'm wondering if 
>they're "too good to be true". My alternatives are White Lighting and Novatron 
>Monolights, but they are considerably more expensive for equivalent power and 
>accessories. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

I use the Studio Pro Home portrait kit for taking portraits.  The kit includes
two variable power (1/4, 1/2, full) 120WS strobes, stands, umbrella(s) (?),
a lower (40? 60WS?) strobe with a snoot attachment, barn doors and other etc.
stuff.  I can say the the system works as advertised and I have had fairly
good results with them.  I guess the one thing I would probably think about
again before buying is the power output of these units.  When bouncing from
an umbrella you lite output is fairly small and you need to use a slow film
(I would say 100 max).  The umbrellas are just white and do not efficiently
bounce the lite.  I have been thinking of getting some silver ones to improve
this situation.

Also the quality of the strobes doesn't appear that it would take much abuse.
I had a small child bump one of the strobes on the stand with hit the wall and
caused the modelling lamp to burn out.  $20 for a new modelling lamp!  The
fuse inside the unit also blew and I was dissapointed to find that an in-line
fuse holder was not used (fuse was soldered onto the circuit board).  I put
an in-line holder in for future replacement.

Would I get them again? Hmmmmm.....depends on the amount of available resources
($$$) I guess.  If I had the money I would go with Novatron or look at the
systems that Britek* puts together using their HS-1000 or PRO-500 strobes.

To summarize, I am happy with the performance that I get...but you get what
you pay for.   Tom.

*Britek - manufacturer only - call 1-800-925-6258 for dealer near you. 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas B. Fisk          +----------------------------+  Internet: fisk@mayo.edu
Mayo Clinic             |   If you don't know where  |  Voice: (507) 255-4341
200 First Street SW     |  you're going you'll never |  FAX: (507) 255-5484
Mail Stop 2D-337 STM    |         get there.         |
Rochester, MN  55905    +----------------------------+
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hamm@weejordy.physics.mun.ca (Craig Hamm)
Subject: Re: WD-40 Remover?
Organization: Ocean Sciences Centre
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 01:21:26 GMT

	My direct email bounced, and FAST.

	Try acetone.  But no guarantees.  It SEEMS to thin anything!

-- 
  Craig Hamm, Memorial University,|   
  Newfoundland, Ocean Acoustics__/   
  DoD #1500,      ____________/          
  1981 Maxim 650 /            
  _______________| 

Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: alc@gdstech.GRUMMAN.COM (Al Chang)
Subject: Re: Bessler 23c non flat negs
Organization: Grumman Corporation
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 14:33:03 GMT

In article <Bz9v1E.51A@cup.hp.com> markt@cup.hp.com (Mark Thompson) writes:


   I picked up a beseler 23c about six months ago and have been fighting this
   problem, thoght i would throw it out there.

   It is a 23cXL fairly recient model.  The negitive carier has four large
   centering pins that have a grove in them that the edge of the neg goes into.
   The problem is that when the carrier is closed the neg is not heald totaly
   flat.  I have to be really careful not to touch the carrier after focusing
   or the neg will move and end up out of focus.  This has lead me to think
   about getting a negatrans.  It would be nice anyway for making working prints
   rapidly (if any one has one for sale [35mm] let me know). I would really like
   to know what experiences people have had with these carriers.


There are two different problems stated in you posting: problem
knocking the neg. carrier and the negative not being flat.

With most enlargers if you touch the carrier it will knock it out of
focus along with the composition. The problem with the Beseler 23/45's
is that there is a 2 inch arm on the carrier that sticks out of the
enlarger. Now with the negtrans, there is more sticking out. (Isn't
there a mechinism to crank the negative?) I just got use to it

Just my $.02 worth, but I don't think a negatrans will help it you 
have a tendency to hit the carrier after you focus since it the
carrier is held down the same way for both. (Take that comment like
most with a grain of salt since I don't own a negatrans.)

With Beseler 35mm full frame carrier, there is less surface
held down than the 'standard' 35mm therefore the negative is curved
more. If you have the full frame, you may want to check out the
'standard' 35mm. Also, you should alway try to stop down as much as
possible I normally expose at about f8 - f11 to compensate for the
film being curved. There is only two ways that I know of that you can
get a flat negative, a carrier that uses glass or a carrier that has
fingers that pulls the negative flat. (Like what the use on a beseler 
4x5 negative carrier.) 



--
******************************************************************************
Al Chang (516)346-6757,  FAX: (516)575-0965, email: alc@calvin.grumman.com
Grumman Data Systems, 111 Stewart Avenue, MS D12/25, Bethpage, New York 11714
******************************************************************************
-- 
******************************************************************************
Al Chang (516)346-6757,  FAX: (516)575-0965, email: alc@calvin.grumman.com
Grumman Data Systems, 111 Stewart Avenue, MS D12/25, Bethpage, New York 11714
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.photo,misc.forsale,ga.forsale
From: ychen@hubcap.clemson.edu (Eric Chen)
Subject: Good Canon Body & Lens-Cheap-$380
Organization: Clemson University, Clemson SC
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 01:17:13 GMT


1.Canon AE-1 Program body, black, with multi-exposure mode, flash
coulper.
2.Canon 35-105 FD macro f:3.5-4.5 (72mm filter), not EF
3.polar filter 72mm for above lens
4.UV filter 72mm for above lens

in a mint condition

will give you one week warranty to let you test the camera.

$380 for all of them.

This is a firm offer. You need to pay for the shipping. 

Please do not confuse this camera with chrome body or non-program body,
please do not confuse this lens with other cheap Canon EF or non macro
lens.

(For more information or price list in the market, please refer to the
Shutterbug or Popular Photography magazines.
Example: Shutterbug Dec. p.120 AE-1 bk w/50mm f1.4 .... $289 used
	 Shutterbug Dec. p.98 35-105 FD Canon ........$295 used
The Macro lens is sell for $390 new in the market.) 

Eric
(803)6548817
ychen@clemson.hubcap.edu



Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: patten@lumchan.ifa.hawaii.edu (Brian Michael Patten)
Subject: Looking for autowinder for Minolta X-370
Organization: Institute for Astronomy, University of Hawaii
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 09:33:35 GMT


  I'm looking for an autowinder for my old Minolta X-370.  If
anyone has one they'd like to get rid of, or information where
these might still be sold, please contact me by e-mail.  Thanks.


  Brian M. Patten
  Institute for Astronomy
  University of Hawaii
  patten@lumchan.ifa.hawaii.edu
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hsong@ardour.bellcore.com (G. Hugh Song)
Subject: Canon EF28-70/f3.5-? II vs. EF28-105/f3.5-? USM
Organization: ...
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 92 23:07:35 GMT

It is pretty well-known that EF28-70mm/f3.5-4.5 II is an excellent 
piece of glass.   I have also been told all the good things about the new
EF28-105mm/f3.5-? USM.   Several questions for you:

1. Is the front element of EF28-70mm/f3.5-4.5 II nonrotating?
2. Just from a glance, it looks like that it can 
   accommodate a filter with no problem.  Is there any problem with filters?
3. Is it worth $260.00?

I know that it had been around $175.00, and that it was discontinued.  
I found a store which has one.  But their price is just too high.  
And the store is not a reputable one, either.   Additional $120 will let
me buy the new EF28-105mm/f3.5-? USM.  However, there has been no
lens test for this yet by lens testers in the net or in the magazine 
publishing houses.
So the final question is:

4. Which is the better buy between the two?

Thanks a lot.

	Hugh
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: accwai@math.uwaterloo.ca (Andy Wai)
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Film Flatness
Organization: Math Faculty Computing Facility, University of Waterloo
Distribution: na
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1992 20:44:52 GMT

In article <337@metran.UUCP> jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts) writes:
>accwai@math.uwaterloo.ca (Andy Wai) writes:
>[...]
>: P.S. I'm a studio still life guy.  I shoot under close to ideal conditions.
>:      So there :-)
>
>So you shoot close-ups?  To me, that's no where near ideal!  First, you must
>have a macro lens, that is made for close focussing.  Normal lenses lose out
>when close-focussed.  Then, if there is any depth to your subject, [...]
>That is why practically
>every full-page product shot you can find in magazines was done in large
>format.  Study these carefully and you will be able to figure it out.

Thanks for the advice.  In any case, one would hope that somebody who
specializes in large format macro would know about these things already.
Sigh...  It's probably time to give this thing a rest before it turns
into a shouting match.  Got to run, sorry.

Andy Wai
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: n3022@cray.com (Jim Knoll)
Subject: Olympus Stylus Recommendations
Keywords: Olympus
Reply-To: n3022@cray.com
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 16 Dec 92 07:27:37 CST

I am thinking of getting a point-and-shoot instamatic-type
35mm camera.  The one I really like is the Olympus Stylus.
It is pocket size, has built in flash, auto-everything (focus,
exposure, advance, and rewind), red-eye reduction system,
and the list goes on.

My goal is to have a camera that I can bring with to places where a
35mm SLR would be too conspicuous.  Also, I want the camera to easily
fit in my pocket.

Does anyone have any experience positive or negative with
the Olympus Stylus?

Thanks in advance...

Jim
From: kting@cse.unl.edu (Kea Ting)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Does Minolta X-700 allow shutter priority auto mode
Date: 15 Dec 1992 15:28:31 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: cse.unl.edu
Keywords: Minolta, camera

hasker@cs.uiuc.edu (Rob Hasker) writes:

>fourie@odie.ee.wits.ac.za (Andre Fourie) writes:

>>I have purchased a 2nd hand Minolta X-700 camera.
>> Somebody told me that the camera can be used in shutter priority mode 
>>as well.

>I just checked the manual, and the answer is no.

Well, I have the mode on my maxxum 7000i. I used it for a few times only.
Before I got my 7000i, I used my old Olympus Om 10 at the apature
priority mode all the time. So when I move on to 7000i, just feel that
is the most natural mode to use. You can live withoud the shutter priority
mode. :-)

--
soon

University Of                  Disclaimer :
Nebraska-Lincoln               I always speak for myself.
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Vivitar 2x for Hasselblad
Date: 16 Dec 1992 12:17:22 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


I own a Vivitar 2X fo my Hasselblad.  Despite what the Hasselblad propagandists
say, it works just fine (I bought mine second hand for a very reasonable price).

In theory, according to Hasselblad the non-mutar 2X's are not great at widest
apertures, but I have not found this to be the case. I use it on my 50, 80 and
120 mm lenses with very good results (the 50 becomes a very sharp 100mm lens
and is very hands, and the 80 becomes a great f 5.6 portrait lens).  Although
Hasselblad warns against using even Mutars with the 120, I have had entirely 
satisfactory results with mine.

The elements DO NOT come out..this is a mulit=element (6 or 7 I think)
lens.

It is also a third or less the price of a mutar.
brian
Newsgroups: rec.photo,comp.graphics,alt.cd-rom
From: graeme@labtam.labtam.oz.au (Graeme Gill)
Subject: Re: Viewing Kodak Photo-CD on X-Windows
Organization: Labtam Australia Pty. Ltd., Melbourne, Australia
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 02:29:17 GMT
Followup-To: comp.graphics
Keywords: X-Windows, Color quantisers

In article <1992Dec15.095548.17173@cc.tut.fi>, jk87377@cc.tut.fi (Juhana Kouhia) writes:
> 
> A year or so ago I tested various quantizers; the results are
> following:
> 
> Rlequant with the default values was the best one.

	The quantiser in xli is a slightly enhanced version
of the one in relquant. For best results the -cdither
flag should be used.

	Graeme Gill
From: phan@boole (Phan Huy Lan)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Looking for a 80-200 Tokina ATX, 2.8
Date: 18 Dec 92 02:52:27 GMT
Organization: Ecole Polytechnique de Montreal
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6]

hi, i'm looking for a used 80-200 F2.8 or
100-300 F4.0 Tokina ATX zooms, Pentax mount,
auto or manual focus, in good condition
if U have such lens and want to sell it,
please contact me via email about condition
and price.
I'll prefer a canadian seller since it's easier
for me to get the lense. Thanx..
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: hasn@midway.uchicago.edu
Subject: Prints from Slides
Organization: University of Chicago
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 16:24:29 GMT

Hi
I just processed some slides I had taken in VT (when
the colors were changing) and they came out 
stunningly (mostly primary colors blue, green
and red which were really radiant).  I wanted to
send some of these as prints as chrismas gifts so I
took it over to the photo shop who printed directly
from the slides for about a little over buck a print.  
They suck.  They seem to be totally underexposed
and the color is dingy and dark. Is this normal or
did the shop not do a good job? Should I take them to
a good place like Helix or Calumet?  I subscribe to
Popular Photo and the prints they made from slides 
are great. What should I do.  These are great photos
and I would still like to make prints out of them.
Thanks for any advice.
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger)
Subject: Re: Need help getting dark B&W sky
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 23:25:50 GMT

In article <1gii8nINNmge@hp-col.col.hp.com> sparks@col.hp.com (John Sparks) writes:
>In article <1992Dec13.061722.25059@unislc.uucp> erc@unislc.uucp (Ed Carp) writes:
>>I have examined "Moon And Half Dome" as well as Adams' other well-known
>>(and not-so-well known) photographs that show sky detail.  I have also
>>examined "Examples", and his three-volume set "The Camera", "The Negative",
>>and "The Print".  In none of these books does he suggest that he had to
>>do anything to get the darker sky other than by using #12 (yellow) or
>>#25 or #29 (red and deep red, respectively) filters.  Indeed, with some of
>>his prints, printing down the sky would have been very noticeable.  If you
>>want to see a sky that is somewhat suggestive of this particular style, I
>>refer you to "Monolith, the Face of Half Dome" (1927), in which he gives
>>a lot of technical details about how he made this picture (using a #29
>>dark red filter) - "The Negative, pp. 4-5.
>
>Well, I don't know about "Moon and Half Dome", but this summer at a John
>Sexton workshop, he had some origional Ansel Adams prints including things
>like straight prints and final prints of such well known images as 
>"Moon Rise Hernandez" and "Clearing Winter Storm" and the amount of sky
>burning took me completely by surprise (the straight prints had basicly 
>white skys with almost no detail).  Adams may have gotten the dark skys simply
>by using a red filter, but I would not be at all surprised to find that he
>printed down the sky as well.  When you are talking about someone with the
>darkroom skill of Ansel Adams (or even someone with much less skill than him),
>you will NEVER be able to determine what was done to make the print unless
>you also see a straight print.  Adams' darkroom manipulation cannot be
>detected.

This is absolutely right.  In fact, Adams typically printed skies lighter
in the early stages of his career, moving into dark skies later on.  

It's one way collectors distinguish between 'early' and 'late' prints by
Adams of the same negative.
From: bu890@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Brian Segal)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Hasselblad Film Flatness
Date: 17 Dec 1992 05:05:58 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu


The "standard"Hasselblad is a 80mm f2.8, not a 90
The Softars are not lenses, they are filters.
If you have never used one and insected the images with a loupe
you can't really offer a serious opinion.

brian
From: mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: I Hate Grainy Pictures
Keywords: HELP
Date: 13 Dec 92 18:48:15 GMT
Article-I.D.: athena.1992Dec13.184815.3306
Organization: AI Programs, University of Georgia, Athens

In article <1992Dec13.071511.21745@news.acns.nwu.edu> mjg@nwu.edu (Michael J Graven) writes:
>Michael Covington (mcovingt@aisun3.ai.uga.edu) writes:
>
>> If underagitation reduces grain for you, then a shorter development time,
>> with normal agitation, should do the same.
>
>One would think so.  But my efforts didn't show that.  The contrast on the
>normally-agitated film at recommended time was about a grade higher, which 
>is a real consideration when you're trying to fit mixed-race basketball 
>teams in a limited-contrast-range halftone.

So reduce the development time further, to get the desired contrast.

-- 
:-  Michael A. Covington     internet mcovingt@uga.cc.uga.edu :   Verbum caro
:-  Artificial Intelligence Programs       phone 706 542-0358 :    factum est
:-  The University of Georgia                fax 706 542-0349 :  et habitavit
:-  Athens, Georgia 30602-7415 U.S.A.     amateur radio N4TMI :   in nobis...
From: jay@metran.UUCP (Jay Ts)
Newsgroups: rec.photo
Subject: Re: Need help getting dark B&W sky
Date: 16 Dec 92 02:07:12 GMT
Organization: Metran Technology, Tampa, Florida

sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi) writes:
: In article <1992Dec14.230432.22996@leland.Stanford.EDU> prodger@leland.Stanford.EDU (phillip prodger) writes:
: >In article <1992Dec13.191205.27332@craycos.com> sog@craycos.com (Steve Gombosi) writes:
: >>In article <180600010@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM> antonsen@hpcndaw.CND.HP.COM (Tim Antonsen) writes:
: >>>The sky in the Sierras is a remarkably deep blue. The sky in Texas is, I'm
: >>>sorry to say, not the same. This probably explains your problem.
:
: <suggests that part of the problem was caused by Mt. Pinatubo eruption> 
:
: Not according to my friends at NCAR - at least as far as the Pinatubo effect
: is concerned. Of course, skies will *still* be less blue than they were
: in Adam's day - and I'm not particularly optimistic about that, either :-(.

I would not expect the volcanic eruption to have a large effect on sky
blueness.  It mostly comes into play in sunsets and lunar eclipses, where
sunlight is passing through hundreds of miles of atmosphere before the
effect shows up.  When you look straight up, almost all of the atmosphere is
less than a few miles away.

I think that much larger factors are humidity, synthetic pollution (smog)
and altitude.  If you want deep blue skies, try to get away from the cities,
high up, and wait for dry weather (maybe winter).  The Sierras during this
time of year might be kinda nice...!
-- 
Jay Ts
uucp mail: uunet!myrddin!tscs!metran!jay
phone: (813) 979-9169
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: ka1gt@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (robert.m.atkins)
Subject: Re: Dumb Photographers
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 18:09:22 GMT

In article <7030016@hpunila.MSR.HP.COM>, rkatos@hpunila.MSR.HP.COM (Ray Katos) writes:
> 
> I found a much more disturbing occurance.  In a number of museums, 
> art galleries, where flash pictures are expressly forbidden, people
> insist on taking them.  Aside from the inconsideration, the obvious
> next step the curators will take will be "NO CAMERAS", then none of
> us will get pictures. My solution is if you are caught taking 
> unauthorized pictures, your film will be confiscated and destroyed 
> and you will be escorted off of the premises.  I know this is a radical
> step, but some people just don't believe that rules apply to themselves.

I agree completely. A LOT of people in this country (USA) don't believe
rules apply to them. What really pisses me off is the average standard of
behavior of photographers (and others) in National parks and similar places.
Despite numerous signs NOT to feed animals and NOT to approach wildlife I
have seen appalling behaviour, from whistling and shouting at animals, throwing
food, waving shirts etc. just to make them look at the "photographer" (I use
the term here to mean anyone with a camera). I've seen people go up to large
mammals (elk, bison) and jump up and down to get their attention, while their
parner comes in with a P&S camera to get the picture (from maybe 10ft). 
Sometimes (but not often enough) the animal gets annoyed and goes after the
idiots. Take their film away? - I say feed them to the bears.

===============================================================
Bob Atkins  AT&T Bell Labs  email (direct)  att!clockwise!rma
===============================================================
Newsgroups: rec.photo
From: kienwen@zoo.Princeton.EDU (Kien Wen Sun)
Subject: telephoto lens forsale
Originator: news@nimaster
Organization: Princeton University
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 19:00:22 GMT


I have one telephoto lens forsale:

Sigma 400mm/f5.6 APO, new in the box with warranty card

I don't think I will have any chance to use this lens(it's a gift)
I will sell it for $420 ( with a new 72mm filter ,cost we $30)
I forgot to mention it is for Canon EOS mount.Anyone interest please
e-mail me.(ps. I pay the shipping)