HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: jgladu@bcm.tmc.edu (grungy (John F. Gladu))
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Name that Beetle!
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:30:10 GMT
Followup-To: rec.autos.vw
Organization: Systems Support Center, BCM
NNTP-Posting-Host: j.ssctr.bcm.tmc.edu

Well Paul, you're going to have to check your priorities, the windshield is
pushing you early and the brakes and fuel injection are pushing you late...

In article <1993Jan26.130012.6535@monu6.cc.monash.edu.au>,
pmr@daneel.rdt.monash.edu.au (Paul Richardson) wrote:
> 
> I'm interested in a better Beetle. I want McPherson strut front end for
> increased boot space, 4-bolt hubs so I can get decent wheels and tires, 
> independant rear-end, and preferably a flat windscreen,  1500cc or larger 
> engine is essential

'71 and '72 Super Beetles meet all of these criteria, but they didn't come
with disc brakes...

>disc brakes in front

I don't know when or if they came with discs...

> (I don't like the look of the curvy one - it bulges.).

The Super Beetles '73 and later had the curvy windshields...

> - was an 1800 available in the Beetle? How about fuel injection/electronic 
> ignition?

Fuel injection did come along in the late seventies, but I think they were
always equipped with 1600s (stock).

good luck choosing!

bcnu - grungy '61 dddpanel, '68, '69 Bugs, '90 Vanagon
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: tomh@wes.on.ca (Tom Haapanen)
Subject: Re: Used GTI's -- and rust
Organization: Waterloo Engineering Software
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 14:39:44 GMT

> jmps@cbnewsd.cb.att.com (J. M. Sauer) writes:
>> I just sold an '86 GTI and would say they don't have a problem
>> with rust.  The only rust I had was where dings scratched the paint.

hersh@expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh) writes:
> Hmm, the paint integrity on my 86 is one of the dissapointing things
> about it. I have several little bubble spots on the hatch and on the doors
> and the body around the doors. I already have had some of these fixed
> and now have a few more...

We repainted our '86 last year, mostly because of rust -- but I still think
it was remarkably rust-free.  We live in salt-happy Ontario, and yet the only
spots where rust spontaneously appeared was the rear apron welds under the
rear bumper, and a small spot under the black tape on the hatch.  All others
were dings or scrapes -- the big reason for the paint wad the extensive rust
around the windshield, caused by the idiots who replaced the first windshield
way back in '86.  Oh, and the car had had body panels repainted three times
already for various accidents and dings, so I figured it'd be nice to have a
car that's all oen colour!  :)

> My seat frame gave out on the drivers side and seat bolsters have worn
> through, but I am not sure if the seat frame crack was not linked to
> an accident last year (though ideally they should handle accident stresses
> as well)

Seat frames OK, reupholstered seat bolsters.  Replaced both mufflers twice
so far -- half of them under the muffler warranty.  :)

> My tranny also is holding up well (knock wood) at 90K.....

Ditto, at 92,000 km.

[ \tom haapanen  |  "only auto racing, bullfighting and mountain climbing are ]
[ tomh@wes.on.ca |   sports -- all others are only games" -- ernest hemingway ]
[ waterloo engineering software |     "to thine own self be true" -- polonius ]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: kpjone01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu
Subject: Re: Three wheelin' Fool..
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:16:32 GMT
Organization: University of Louisville

In article <25JAN199316320988@zeus.tamu.edu>, jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk) writes:
> 
> The Porsche upgrade sounds like the best option to me, but if you push your
> 911 hard enough (and hold on to the back end), it will lift the inside
> front wheel!  So it looks like you're out of luck...

But if I had a 911, I could have kicked out the back end and just kind of 
slid around the person in front of me.  That would take some fancy 
driving to do that in a FWD VW.  

> 
> Seriously, though, I wouldn't be too concerned about it.  Most people
> seem to agree that lifting the inside rear wheel isn't detrimental to the
> handling, and isn't a safety issue.  If you stiffen up the suspension a
> bit more, it may not lift quite as high; my Scirocco, which is very stiffly
> sprung, doesn't lift very much during most autocross runs.  In fact, if you

I think I will stiffen the car up a bit.  I realize that I will always have
a wheel up in the air but it would be nice to limit it a bit.  Some things 
are just bound to happen.


> If it really bothers you that much, then buy another car or don't corner
> so fast.  If you do buy another car, however, make sure it is of another 
> fine German (maybe Italian) marque, and not one of those rice-burners that
> is constantly getting in my way!

WHAT???  Not drive as fast???  That would be an insult to the GTi.  That is 
almost as bad as accusing me of going from German to Japanese.  Up until 
recently I have owned either VW or Porsche auto's.  (I did break down and 
buy and 87 Civic Si for $500 though)  I won't drive it!!!  I am just going 
to fix it and sell it so I can turn the $$ into a 911 or something decent.
 
Oh well....
 
Kevin


> 
> 
> --
> Jeffrey M. Mayzurk
> 
> ifcg550@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu (preferred)
> jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu
>
From: jss@greeble.Eng.Sun.COM (Josh Sirota)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Idle speed in Passat GLX
Date: 25 Jan 1993 18:43:10 GMT
Organization: SunSoft, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jss@greeble.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: greeble

My new Passat GLX wagon (VR6 engine, 5-speed) seems to idle at about 800rpm
regardless of engine temperature or outside temperature.  Even when the
engine is cold and it's 14 degrees out.  Seems to do okay though.  Is this
the way it's supposed to be?

Josh
--
      Josh Sirota			INTERNET: jss@eng.sun.com
      Multimedia Platforms		SunSoft, Inc.


Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: jbc@linus.mitre.org (John B. Campbell)
Subject: Re: New Beetles - NOT!
Organization: Research Computer Facility, The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:13:36 GMT

When I was in the British Virgin Islands last August, (have had a
second home there for 20 years) I wandered into the local
VW/Land-Rover dealer to see what was being imported.  They had a new
beetle (white) on order for customer delivery.  It was due in a couple
of months and had a price tag of over $9000.  (That distressed me
because as recently as 6-7 years ago they were selling for $4K or so.)

I didn't ask whether these were Brazilian or Mexican; they get 'em
from both sources.  Late models running the streets there have few US
features that tend to run up the costs.  No belts, no safety glass, no
pollution gear, no heaters.  And until recently they had the same
engine that powered my trusty 66 beetle.

Such a bug would make lovely transportation but couldn't pass many
state inspections in the US.
--
****************************************************************
*                                      *                       *
* John B. Campbell                     *   This space          *
* MITRE Corporation                    *                       *
* Bedford, MA 01730                    *   intentionally       *
* (617)271-3434                        *                       *
* <jbc@mitre.org>                      *   blank.              *
*                                      *                       *
****************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu (Jay Lonner)
Subject: Summary of replies
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.40    
Reply-To: 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu
Organization: Western Washington University
Date: 21 Jan 1993 21:23 PST  

Hello,

A few weeks ago I made a post in which I talked about some performance mods I
was considering for my beloved '68 Bug.  I got a lot of thoughtful and helpful
replies, and I appreciate the time everyone took to make them.  A few people
wrote to tell me that they would like me to post a summary of the replies, and
now that the discussion has died down that is what I am going to do.

But be warned -- this is like a 900-line long file, and has not been organized. 
I've kept the file headers and stuff so that I'd know who to address specific
responses to.  Anyway, here it is, and thanks again to those who responded!

Jay.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-
From: wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Date: 6 Jan 1993 20:25:24 GMT
Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA)
NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu


There must be some sort of rebuilding bug (sorry) going around!  Jay, I say
go for it!  Mostly.

>1) Dual port heads, ported and polished

Sounds great.

>2) New carb(s)...

I'd stick with "new carb" unless you want to get a Syncrhon and have to mess 
with calibrating two carbies.  Probably a single Weber would do a real nice job
for you.

>3) "Doghouse" fan and shroud

You've already got these!  "Doghouse" refers to how the fan housing sticks up
in front of the engine on the type I engines.  My type IV ('77 bus) engine is
called a "pancake" because the fan housing lays flat behind the engine.

>4) Remote oil cooler

Never had one, but from what I understand, especially if you are keeping your
engine stock, there really isn't all that much need for an external cooler.
Perhaps you could think about simply putting on a slightly larger than normal
sump.  I think Gene Berg makes some and if he does, they'd be superior quality.
That'd put a little more quantity of oil in the system, helping with the
cooling question.

>5) Get the crankshaft balanced...

If you're going to rebuild, it's best to do the WHOLE thing and do the WHOLE
thing right.  So get the crank balanced and polished.

>6) Free flow exhaust (but one the keeps the heater boxes!)

I've got a Monza that's just waiting to go on my bus.  I've heard a good free-
flow can add a fair amount of HP, but I don't know first hand.  There are some
cheesy ones out there, though, so be careful.

>7) 009 distributor


Yup.  Good idea.

As far as manuals, I'd just start at the beginning of Muir's chapter XV and
follow him step by step, using Bentley along the way when John gets vague.  And
none of this stuff will increase your emissions, in fact I'd wager that
by rebuilding the engine and keeping it in tune and running well will actually
put out less nasties than you are now.

Cost wise, you might want to check around local VW parts houses and see if
any of them have specially priced rebuild kits with all you need.  Otherwise,
use the lists in Muir and add it all up, including any costs for machining (try
and find a local machinist who does lots of VW work.)  You might want to check
around for a local VW club to help you find parts places and machinists.

And most of all, have fun ;-)

Bill
-- 
William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
wpc@po.cwru.edu
From: mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov (Mike Ross)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Date: 6 Jan 93 20:54:29 GMT
Article-I.D.: aio.1993Jan6.205429.9900
Organization: Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Company

In article <6JAN199310345747@nessie.cc.wwu.edu> 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu writes:
>
>With that in mind, let me list some of the modifications that I am
>considering...
>
>4) Remote oil cooler
>5) Get the crankshaft balanced (I'm not sure what this is either, but a local
>   VW guru told me it was a good idea to increase longevity and reduce
>   vibration, &c.)

All those mod's look good, but unless you're racing or high-revving,
the balanced crank will be expensive.  I would suggest taking your 
case to the machine shop to have the jug-holes (cylinder supports)
on the case machined perfectly parallel to the centerline.  This is
known, I believe, as having the case 'decked'.  Most cases have had 
these surfaces pounded, such that the cylinders no longer are perpendicular
to the crankshaft.  This causes a lot of friction and a hot-running
engine.

Regarding the remote oil cooler, I believe the dog-house oil cooler
is quite sufficient (make sure the thermostat and the cold-air baffles
and linkage are present and working). I WOULD recommend, however, an oil
filter, they make 'em where the spin-on filter goes on the oil pump at
the rear (REAR is REAR) of the motor.  A remote oil cooler WILL leak, 
or at least weep, and make a mess fairly soon.

Remember, stock is the most reliable and most long-lasting, unless you
love to tinker all the time with it.

-mike

-- 
******************************** mike@drseus.jsc.nasa.gov *****
* Michael L. Ross/C33 | Lockheed Engineering & Sciences Co.   *
* Robotics Department | 2400 Nasa Rd. 1, Houston, TX 77062    *
*(713)333-7094 voice,(713)333-7201 fax**********boring, eh?****



Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1993 16:53:50 GMT

A couple of things to ponder if you are going for a complete rebuild and
performance upgrade on an air-cooled engine.

Even if you are not going for high revs, a good engine balance will do wonders
for smoothness and durability.  But, you need to do the complete setup: crank,
pistons, rods, alternator pulley and most importantly the flywheel and pressure
plate. (The clutch disk is of little effect).  Doing a crank balance alone would
be a waste of money.   I went this full balance route on the '62 Bug I built up
some years ago (like in '69).  First I took the flywheel down and had the metal
bulk on the engine side of the ring gear turned down to where the metal thickness
was fairly uniform and equal to the ring gear thickness.  This dropped 8 pounds
of weight from the perimeter of the 22 pound flywheel.   Then I took all the parts
down to a company specializing in engine balancing.  (I used Precision Balancing
in Indianapolis, at the time: not sure if they are still there).  Such a flywheel 
trim and full balance gives you an incredibly responsive engine.  

The temptation with engine performance mods is to upgrade the clutch, but beware
of those center spring (Belville, I believe) or the so-called over-center clutches.
They are either in or out and difficult to use smoothly on the street.  Just go
for a good heavy-duty pressure plate and better disk material.

I noticed port and polish was on the list.  I did this as well, but found that
it was the cause of a valve failure about a year later.  Be careful to not
remove very much metal around the valve guides.  I completely removed the "bump"
around the guides so there was an more direct path.  This weaken the valve guide
so that it eventually began to wobble.  The valve then wobbled, which caused the
valve head to twist each time it hit the seat.  Eventually, PING! the head of the
valve fell off and found the piston.  The rest I will leave to your imagination!
Morale of the story, keep a fair amount of metal around the valve guides clear
up to their top.

I also agree with "decking" and line-boring the case.  

Another trick is to get a fan with fewer blades (I forget which years they
were on) as this will reduce the fan load at high revs.  Of course, you will then
need to keep the revs up to get the same cooling.  Removing the thermostatic
control ring also helps reduce air drag, but will cause the engine to be "cold
natured" during warmup.

Sounds like fun.

Mark
From: daris_b1@verifone.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: Engine mods
Date: 11 Jan 93 20:22:56 GMT
Article-I.D.: verifone.1993Jan12.062256.4762
Organization: VeriFone Inc., Honolulu HI

In article <1iff7kINNc2j@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:
>
    [ Stuff deleted ]
> 
>>3) "Doghouse" fan and shroud
> 
> You've already got these!  "Doghouse" refers to how the fan housing sticks up
> in front of the engine on the type I engines.  My type IV ('77 bus) engine is
> called a "pancake" because the fan housing lays flat behind the engine.
> 
Not exactly, "doghouse cooler" referrs to the repositioned oil cooler and 
fan shroud introduced on the 71 Beetle and Bus.

>>4) Remote oil cooler
> 
> Never had one, but from what I understand, especially if you are keeping your
> engine stock, there really isn't all that much need for an external cooler.
> Perhaps you could think about simply putting on a slightly larger than normal
> sump.  I think Gene Berg makes some and if he does, they'd be superior quality.
> That'd put a little more quantity of oil in the system, helping with the
> cooling question.
> 
Actually, Gene Berg preaches the merits of the "doghouse" cooler system.
Check out his catalog/tech manual.
>
   [ More stuff deleted ]
> 
>>6) Free flow exhaust (but one the keeps the heater boxes!)
> 
> I've got a Monza that's just waiting to go on my bus.  I've heard a good free-
> flow can add a fair amount of HP, but I don't know first hand.  There are some
> cheesy ones out there, though, so be careful.
> 
Monza exhausts are as restrictive as a stock system, but deeper in tone.
>
   [ Still more stuff deleted ]
>
> Bill
> -- 
> William Claspy		Case Western Reserve University
> wpc@po.cwru.edu

Regards,
   Daris
From: scottmo@tekig5.pen.tek.com (Scott John Mockry)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: thermostat
Summary: I would advise staying with the stock thermostat and louvers.
Date: 13 Jan 93 01:27:38 GMT
Article-I.D.: tekig7.8225

In article <12JAN199310095893@nessie.cc.wwu.edu>, 8635660@nessie.cc.wwu.edu (Jay Lonner) writes:
> Hello,
> 
> Is it advisable to remove the thermostat from a Type I engine and just leave
> the flaps open all the time?  I've heard that it increases airflow, but at the
> cost of rough startups (esp. in colder weather).  Are there any other side
> effects that I should look out for if I choose to do this?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jay.

Jay,
I would stay with the stock thermostat and louver setup. Gene Berg in
Orange, CA has done extensive testing on the stock cooling system and
has concluded that removing the thermostat, and louvers ends up making
the engine wear out quicker due to longer warm up. If you are concerned
with over heating and high oil temperatures check out your compression
ratio. One problem that occurs with rebuilt vw air cooled engines
(my opinion and Gene Berg's) is overheating due to the compression
ratio being too high for todays gasoline. The heads and case are often
flycut to improve the sealing area and this raises the compression above
the stock ratio. Adding big bore cylinders will do the same unless they
are shimmed under the barrels to increase deck height. My personal
experience has been that my engine (1775cc dual 42DCNF Webers and
9.0 to 1 compression) ran with an oil temperature from 240-260 degrees F
(outside air temp was 80-90 degrees F). Lowering the compression down
to 6.8 to 1 reduced the oil temp to 210 degrees even with outside air
temps of 100 degrees F.  This was using the stock 1971 doghouse cooling
system with a full flow oil filter.  The engine has 88K on it and still
runs great. All of this assumes that your carburation and ignition timing
are set correctly. Contact Gene Berg if you want to become an expert
on VW air cooled engines. 
					Scott
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Subject: Re: New Beetles - NOT!
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1993 13:55:42 GMT

In article <JBC.93Jan25161336@beowulf.linus.mitre.org>, jbc@linus.mitre.org (John B. Campbell) writes:
>When I was in the British Virgin Islands last August, (have had a
>second home there for 20 years) I wandered into the local
>VW/Land-Rover dealer to see what was being imported.  They had a new
>beetle (white) on order for customer delivery.  It was due in a couple
>of months and had a price tag of over $9000.  (That distressed me
>because as recently as 6-7 years ago they were selling for $4K or so.)
>
>I didn't ask whether these were Brazilian or Mexican; they get 'em
>from both sources.  

Sadly, Mexico is the only place where beetles are being built 
today. The Brazilian line closed down a few years ago, and the
Mexican line remains open due to a deal cut by VW and the
Mexican govt. to provide a "cheap car for the masses"....
sounds like deja vu all over again.


Ric

>Late models running the streets there have few US
>features that tend to run up the costs.  No belts, no safety glass, no
>pollution gear, no heaters.  And until recently they had the same
>engine that powered my trusty 66 beetle.
>
>Such a bug would make lovely transportation but couldn't pass many
>state inspections in the US.
>--
>****************************************************************
>*                                      *                       *
>* John B. Campbell                     *   This space          *
>* MITRE Corporation                    *                       *
>* Bedford, MA 01730                    *   intentionally       *
>* (617)271-3434                        *                       *
>* <jbc@mitre.org>                      *   blank.              *
>*                                      *                       *
>****************************************************************
From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: K&N Air filter
Date: 27 Jan 93 12:42:51 GMT
Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Distribution: na
Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA.

In article <81977@hydra.gatech.EDU>, gt7460c@prism.gatech.EDU (SHERIDAN,BRADLEY RYAN) writes:
>
>  Thanks to all the help on choosing a muffler last month. After finding out 
>the prices on the Gillette and Liestritz, I decided to try the Supertrapp. It
>is very loud! Fortunately, I usually can't hear it( the 600 watt stereo helps).

Hey Brad, next month can we send you a brochure on a Miracle Ear Clarifier?

:-)

Ric





>  For anybody looking at springs/shocks, I found Suspension Techniques/KYB's
>for $400 installed from BMVW in Palmetto,GA. They handle great, but don't ride
>as comfortably as stock.
>  I just got a K&N Air filter the other day. The directions recomend using some
>special oil on the filter(Which they sell...separately). Will this make much
>difference? Is there an inexpensive locally available substitute?
>
>Thanks for any advice:)
>Brad
>
>-- 
>SHERIDAN,BRAD
>Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
>uucp:	  ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!gt7460c
>Internet: gt7460c@prism.gatech.edu