HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: liggio@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Vincent J. Liggio)
Subject: Re: Foam Cores
Reply-To: liggio@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu (Vincent J. Liggio)
Organization: Columbia University
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1992 01:38:43 GMT

In article <1992Aug18.214800.1782@iex.uucp> djones@iex.iex.com writes:
>I am expecting my foam cores from Wing Mfg to show up most any moment. These
>cores will form the wing for my Jensen Stick. Having never worked with foam
>before I am curious what folks use to cover them. I have considered the
>following options:
>
>1) Completely sheeting them with 1/16" balsa and the using Monokote.
>2) Completely sheeting them with 1/16" balsa and then glassing and
>   painting.
>3) Using leading and trailing edge 1/16" balsa sheeting with cap 
>   strips and then covering with Monokote.
>4) Glassing over the raw cores and then painting.
>
>If I should try glassing (something I have never done before...at least not
>like this) what weight of glass? And do I use epoxy thinned or polyester resin?
>
>What are the techniques that have been tried. Please post or send
>email and I will post a summary.

Glass it!  The foam is really not strong enough, and the balsa will not be
strong enough by itself since it is just sheeting.  I don't know if
monokote would do.

I have a 1/5 scale Rutan Long-EZ (canard-pusher w/wingtips), which has a
wing built of 8 sections.  The main wing is six pieces, and the wing tips
the other two.  The middle sections are glassed using 2 layers of 2 oz
glass, overlapping 1" into the next wing section.  The outer sections are
glassed using 2 layers of 3/4 oz glass.  The glass is applied in the
following manner:

Using a spray on contact adhesive (available at any art supply store),
spray the piece to be glassed with a layer of adhesive.  (The less the
better, but enough to make it stick).  Then apply the first layer of glass.
Using a mixture of 30 minute epoxy and rubbing alcohol (2x more epoxy than
alcohol), thinned to just above watery consistancy, 'paint' onto the glass.
Then repeat after the epoxy is dry with another layer of glass at a 45
degree angle.  Overlap at the different sections of the wing by at least 1"
(if your wing is only two pieces, then do the center separately from the
outer edges) The glass will feel rough, but this is fixed by using a
brushable filler (Something like Hobbypoxy H90 filler).  Use the filler to
smooth out the roughness.  Do not sand the glass itself...  Then paint with
your favorite paint (I used epoxy paint).

This method is not as hard as it might seem.  I used it with my Long-EZ,
which was my first RC plane I built (at the age of 15), and it came out
beautiful.  This is a similar method used to build the actual Long-EZ, so
it has to be very strong!

Good luck!

Vince
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: Steve.Rasmussen@bbs.oit.unc.edu (Steve Rasmussen)
Subject: re: Tire Gluing
Followup-To: rec.models.rc
Organization: Extended Bulletin Board Service
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 03:49:56 GMT

>paal-sb@hsr.no (Paal Steiner Berg) writes:
>  How do you guys glue foam tires ??
>  Do you use contact glue or CA ?
 
I use 3M-Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (#51135-08008), my brother is an
auto-body dude and borrows *cough* it from where he works. It comes in
5oz tubes and is enuff to mount 4-5 sets of tires. One neat trick is to 
put atheletic-type (cloth) tape around the wheel before you glue the tire
on, and when the tire is worn all you hafta do is slice across the tire with
an X-acto and the tire will come off in on piece.
  
And on the subject of tires, does anybody find that Arrows Pink tires
'chunk-out' far more easier than other tires? They wear great and have
decent traction when they stay together :)  I tried Arrows' new Mito
rears they stuck great but they wore quickly (I was using the 30's). 

            -- Drive fast, Steve Rasmussen.
--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  bbs.oit.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
From: wh20@iastate.edu (Gregory D Westwater)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: plane for sale
Summary: complete r/c airplane setup for sale.
Keywords: complete setup
Date: 1 Sep 92 18:51:16 GMT
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames IA


  I was intersted in r/c airplanes for a while, but lost interst.  I have a sig cadet mark 2 with futaba attack 4 radio and os max engine.  Fuel, props, etc included.  asking 200 dollars.  575 dollars new.  airplane needs some work, radio and engine are fine.
  contact  at home address:  gregory westwater
                             p o box 55
                             albion, ia 50005
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: mmcevill@mitre.org (Michael A. McEvilley)
Subject: Re: instructors
Organization: The MITRE Corporation
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1992 14:42:40 GMT

In article <1992Aug31.113607.2266@inland.com> bloom@inland.com writes:
> We have a guy down here who teaches for $ - actually $A45/hr, but maybe 
he
> > provides equipment in that!

I can understand the 'schools' of RC training that provide the aircraft, 
radio, fuel, etc, and teach you how to fly for a fee.  But then again, you 
have to watch out for them too.

There is a guy around here operating such a 'school', and he trains his 
students on three-channel (no aileron) aircraft first, and then 'advances' 
them to 4-channel.  
And he is charging for the 'transition' instruction from 3 to 4 channel.

I guess people will try to make a buck however they can!

Michael
From: bloom@inland.com
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: FAQ? (questions about engines)
Date: 27 Aug 92 08:37:34 CST
Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN

In article <1992Aug25.071452.9961@ida.liu.se>, gse@ida.liu.se (Goran Sedvall) writes:
> Is there any FAQ list for this group? I have a minor problem
> with a Webra 6.5cc engine. My engine doesen't run properly.
> It starts but stop again after a few secconds. I suspect that
> the glowing plug is to cold. How does an engine react when I
> use wrong glowing plug?
> Goran
> 

Assuming that your needle valves are properly set:
There are really only 3 possible things that can cause an engine to 
stop or lose a lot of rpm when you pull off the glow battery.
1. Too cold a glow plug.
2. Too cold a fuel or bad fuel contaminated with water.  Cold fuel 
is equivalent to low or no nitromethane.
3. Low compression in the engine.

I would do the following to solve your problem.  First, change to a 
new fresh fuel of at least 10% nitro of a reputable brand or one that 
runs well in one of your friend's engines.  If that doesn't fix it, 
then change to a hotter plug, e.g. a Fox R/C long idle bar plug or a 
Fox Miracle plug.  If that doesn't fix it, check to see if your 
compression is good.  Maybe you need a new ring or piston and liner 
if they are worn out or maybe you have a leaking head gasket.
From: gv9j@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: For Sale: Nitro Catamaran
Date: 26 Aug 92 09:36:14 EDT
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University

For Sale:
Aeromarine .60-.90 Catamaran.
Still Gel-coat White
I've done some lightening
The stuffing box is complete and tidy
I used to have a Picco .60 with a X457 in it, and it was pretty quick
$150.00
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: rsilvers@nynexst.com (Rob Silvers)
Subject: Re: remote camera and Re: Micro Video
Organization: Nynex Science and Technology
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 19:20:58 GMT

In article <1705@necis.UUCP> rbono@necis.UUCP ( NM1D) writes:
>In article <1992Aug28.190250.1@acad2.alaska.edu>, asdch@acad2.alaska.edu wrote:
>
> In my search I found the following items:
>  Camera:
>      Black and white, 240 lines
>      1.4 x 1.3 x 2.25 inches
>      2.5 ounces
>      7 to 14 Vdc at 80 mA.
>      $289.00
> All of these can be purchases from:
>   P. C. Electronics


	Please note that this camera is also available from

	Crimson Tech,
	ATTN: Beverly
	(617) 499-4685

	For about $179.00 last time I called.  It is a Chinon. (I think model CX-101)
	A color model may be out now for more money.

	--Rob.
From: cwatters@acorn.co.uk (colin watters)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: BMFA or SMAE?
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:43:10 GMT
Organization: Acorn Computers Ltd, Cambridge, England

In article <BtIoEC.AI8@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu> ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) writes:

>In article <17751@acorn.co.uk> cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters) writes:
>
>>I believe the recommendation from the BMFA (British Model Flight Association)
>>is to avoid channels 80+ or put two pegs on the board.
>
>Hmmmm.. Isn't the SMAE still the model airplane association in
>Britain, or has there been a SFA-type split? If so how did it 
>turn out?
>

The SMAE decided a new name was required a short time ago. I don't recall
them asking members (ie me) if they were happy with the idea. I just
read about it afterwards in the model press - Perhaps I didn't read the
news letter carefully enough.

There is a new model airplane association in the UK it is called the Model
Pilots Association (MPA). Officially they are not in competition with each
other. However the MPA association managed to aquire a national flying site
only a year or so after setting up. This sort of thing is bound to attract
new members.

I should add that I AM a member of the SMAE who have represented the interests
of modellers to the government and other official bodies very well for years.
I am not YET an MPA member.

 

 



 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|            _          | Email: cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters)       |
|    _      \ \         |                                                   |
|   | \______\_\_____   |---------------------------------------------------|
|   |-________--_____\  |                                                   |
|            / /        | Do it by remote control !                         |
|           /_/         |                                                   |
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: leenes+@cs.cmu.edu (Ronald Leenes)
Subject: Looking for Graupner ASW22 B270 data
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1992 13:21:30 GMT

Dear fellow netreaders,

Is there someone out there who has a Graupner ASW22 B270 electroglider.

Recently I got the fuselage for that plane, unfortunately I don't have 
that much data about the wings. I do know the wingspan and airfoil.

I am looking for someone who can do some measurements on his/her plane for me.

Another question:
Are there good US magazines about model gliders / electrogliders?

Thanks,

Ronald Leenes

romix@bsk.utwente.nl
Ronald.Leenes@SHAMO.SOAR.CS.CMU.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: noring@netcom.com (Jon Noring)
Subject: Information Wanted on Very Miniature RC Planes, Cars and Boats
Date: Fri, 04 Sep 92 01:06:29 GMT
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 

Hello,

After visiting my local hobby store and seeing some 'Z' gauge model railroad
equipment, it made me wonder how miniaturized RC planes, boats and cars can
get and still be controllable.  For example, most cars are 1:10 scale (or
thereabouts), but how about 1:50, or even smaller?  How small can RC airplanes
get, and still fly controllably?  The same for boats?  How small can/do
practical gasoline engines get for those micro applications?  (same question
for battery/electric motors).

Well, you know where I'm coming from.  I'd find it fun and challenging to
go to micro-miniaturized RC equipment.  Maybe this could form the basis for
a startup company.  half :^)   I believe that it would definitely be a big
thing.

I look forward to your feedback.

Jon Noring

-- 
=============================================================================
| Jon Noring          | noring@netcom.netcom.com | "The dogs bark, but the  |
| JKN International   | IP    : 192.100.81.100   |  caravan moves on."      |
| 1312 Carlton Place  | Phone : (510) 294-8153   | "Pack your lunch, sit in |
| Livermore, CA 94550 | V-Mail: (510) 862-1101   |  the bushes, and watch." |
=============================================================================
"If your annual income today is $50,000, you have the same buying power as
the average coal miner did in 1949, adjusted for taxes and inflation," John
Sestina, nationally recognized Certified Financial Planner;  quoted in 1987.
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: barber@ad.enet.dec.com (ANDREW BARBER)
Subject: Re: FAQ? (questions about engines)
Reply-To: barber@ad.enet.dec.com (ANDREW BARBER)
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1992 17:14:31 GMT



|>I don't think the laws of thermodynamics can be violated!  Nitro gives you 
|>more power thru more heat per power stroke.  Have you measured the 
|>head temperature of an engine running more nitro???  I'd bet a big dinner 
|>on this one.
|>
|>
The extra heat you get is just energy you can't use.  The ideal engine doesn't
get hot.  The exhaust should be cold.  This way, all energy is mechanical and none is used to heat up the exhaust gases.


|>  To demonstrate:  Place a 17 caliber steel shot on an asbestos sheet
|>  (observing all relevant OSHA, NIH, FBI and FDA precautions) next to a
|>  sixteen pound steel shotput.  Apply an equal amount of heat to both
|>  masses by heating for three seconds with a blowtorch.  Immediately pick
|>  up the two shots.  The one with the smaller mass will cause smoke to be 
|>  emitted from your fingers, indicating high temperature.  The big mass will
|>  still seem to feel quite comfortable to you.  Same thing happens in the
|>  engine -- the smaller mass of the glow element will get hotter than the
|>  larger mass.  Hot plugs use skinny wires.
|>
|>  Now, bandage your fingers and we'll move on to the heat capacity experi-
|>  ment.  Heat both masses to the same temperature.  For engineering purposes,
|>  they'll be at the same temperature when they're both cherry red (do the big
|>  one first).  Now, apply an equal amount of coolant to each mass (spit on 'em).
|>  and pick both of them up.  The one that we have classified as "hot" didn't
|>  cause the same reaction as it did in the first experiment.  Smoke is now
|>  being emitted from your other hand...  This is "heat capacity", the bigger
|>  mass is slower to heat up and slower to loose it's energy.  Cold plugs use
|>  fat wires and retain more heat.
|>
|>  Of course, I'm being facetious.  No sensible engineer would do such a silly
|>  experiment.  
|>
|>  He'd use a co-op student.


HEY! I resemble that comment!


Andy Barber
4th year Co-op student~
University of Cincinnati/EE

From: davel@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Dave Luiz)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1992 05:11:49 GMT
Subject: Re: R/C helicopters
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc

In rec.models.rc, Douglas.R.Beekman@dartmouth.edu (Douglas R. Beekman) writes:

    I would like to hear from somebody who knows about R/C helicopters.
    I've been flying R/C airplanes for a while and would like to give
    helicopters a try. I would like to know what model would be good for a
    beginner and whether or not a used heli is a viable option. I've been
    reading up on the subject, but there is nothing like a warm body with
    some experience to get advise from. I havn't been able to do this
    because I'm from Iowa and helis are not too popular here. Any advise
    would be greatly appreciated.

    Doug
From: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com (Pete Foss PO/46)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Re: US Aircore Trainer, Any Good?
Date: 26 Aug 92 15:51:36 GMT
Reply-To: pfoss@cmsa.gmr.com
Organization: .................

>
>Is the US AirCore Trainer a good plane to begin RC with
>(I will be getting an instructor to help me this time around :-)  )
>
>What engine would be recommended for this?
>
>Any strong suggestions about a decent beginer/intermediate radio setup?
>
>Thanks in advance for the help!
>
>Jeff

I have flown a couple for students with good success.  Any 40 size engine will do. I like OS 40FP for students because they are very easy to break in and reliable.  As far as a radio goes, get a 4 or 6 channel FM, dual conversion receiver with buddy box capabilities.  Futaba Conquest or Airtronics VG?DR come to mind.

Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: budd@elxsi.dfrf.nasa.gov (Gerry Budd)
Subject: Re: Carbon fibre and radio interferance
Organization: NASA Dryden, Edwards, Cal.
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1992 17:56:13 GMT

In article <steveg-240892093900@52.10.18.134.in-addr.arpa> steveg@resntl.bhp.com.au (steve garlick) writes:

   I've just finished a mould for producing glider fuselages. I'm planning
   to use carbon fibre tows to reinforce critical areas on the fuse. I want
   to run tows down either side of the fuse and some from the base of the
   fin and up. Does anyone have experience with RF problems with an aerial
   inside such a fuse. (Note, I dont plan to completely cover with CF, just
   2 strips down either side for vertical stiffening).

I've got carbon fiber tow laminated into the interior sidewall of my
Conquest 120 pattern plane.  I run the receiver antennae and three
long servo extensions the full length of the fuselage.  I've been
doing this for years with no problems.  However, I fly JR radios.  I
know some people who will not do this with their 1024 Futaba's.  They
have had some problems with their receivers and don't want to take any
chances.

--

Jerry Budd
budd@elxsi.dfrf.nasa.gov  ames!elxsi.dfrf.nasa.gov!budd
From: billg@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Bill Gingras)
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
Subject: Airtronics Batt Pack W/ Futaba Rx
Date: 28 Aug 92 14:45:00 GMT
Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA


This is another one of those questions that was recently answered on the
net but I wasn't paying attention at the time.......

Anyway, I recently bought an Airtronics 100 ma flight pack to use with a
Futaba Rx.  I figure that if I file off the three tabs on the bottom of
the Airtronics connector and reverse the power and ground leads, it
should work with the Rx.  What I want to know is, if the power connector
is plugged in backward, will I ruin the Rx?  On a power connector, only
the middle and one of the end pins on the connector are used, so I
figure if it is plugged in backward, the middle pin would be connected
and the end pin would be floating, causing no damage.  The socket on the
Rx, however, DOES have three pins in it, making my theory somewhat
suspicious.

Thanks!

- Bill G
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: cstone@nodecg.ncc.telecomwa.oz.au (Charlie Stone 4915162)
Subject: PAMPA Bibliography gets to West Australia
Organization: Network Computer Centre
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1992 07:25:37 GMT

 Some time ago, I saw a posting that mentioned the PAMPA bibliography
 of articles published on Stunt.  I wrote to PAMPA and now have my own copy.
 I can confirm that it is a comprehensive listing, and if you are looking
 for information on some facet of stunt flying, this is how to find it.
 The service was fast too, it was only about two weeks from enquiry until
 it was in my clutches in West Australia.

	Control Line flying here seems to be on the upswing.  We have a small
number of new fliers starting, a few RCers coming back for a dabble again
and some ancient wrinklies (like me) re appearing from 20 or 30 year
hibernations.  Its fun.   One of the attractions just now is  that more 
sport flying is being done, it seems to encourage the beginners.  Our club
is sponsoring Vintage A team racing (2.5cc engines and models built from
designs published before 1957).  The planes look great, they don't go
very fast and everyone has heaps of fun.  You dont have to win to enjoy 
yourself (it's even better if you do win of course). 

	We fly off a grass field at the end of our International airport, so 
noise at this location is not an issue.  We do encourage fliers to use mufflers
though, and the reason that we moved to this site was that we were chucked off 
the last one (much closer to home) because of noise problems.  Flying off grass
seems more restful and picnic like than kneeling on tarmac covered with small
rocks.  If you want to promote Control Line, I would recommend getting a smooth
grass field and seeding it with friendly modellers and vintage stunters (just
my opinion of course). 

	Iskandar asked about combat a while back, and yes, we can (and do) use
.40s for what is known here as OPEN combat.  Open used to be the only game in 
town when I was at my most active (clue - In the US a guy called Riley Wooten
was designing the VOODOO about then).  Over the last 20 years, FAI combat
became more popular and seemed to get the higher entry numbers  until 
the FAI introduced the rule that limits venturi bore size to 4 mm 
(less than 3/16"), now the class has almost died (in WA at least).

	Our Nats are usually held just after Christmas and in the first 
part of the New Year, except when they are in South Australia.  The South
Australians have had them at Easter on the last couple of times that they
have been held there.  This is apparently for the better? weather then.
The Nats are held in a different State each year and it is our turn in a
couple of years from now.

Charlie Stone.

 *******************************************************************
  											 
      My next trick is impossible;  Therefore I shan't attempt it.  
  											 
     C.Stone.    							 
     Perth, Australia.						      	
 *******************************************************************
														
Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
From: teemu@krksun.krk.fi (Teemu Hakala)
Subject: Re: Submarines anyone?
Organization: Radio Club of Kauniainen (OH2NRG)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1992 20:15:33 GMT

   Hello RC netters. I am new to this group, and would like to first say
   that I have enjoyed what I have read so far. You are friendly and helpful,
   which follows my previous experience with RC'ers.  

   I started with a swamp buggy (boat sort of), then gliders, powered glider,
   powered planes, and recently off-road RC cars.  I find my interest now
   turning towards the water again as I yearn for an RC submarine.  Most 
   people I talk to seem pretty cool on the idea - they think that I am all 
   wet.  But I find myself getting more and more interested.

   Has anyone out there on the net got any thoughts, suggestions (snickers	
   if need be) for me on the subject of submarines? Names of companies 
   sub kits and/or components would be of great interest.  

   I think it is the challenge of the thing (and the fact that I am now 
   flying a computer, not the submarine I dreamed about 15 years ago).   

   (Specific question: Are NiCad's the explosion hazard that I have heard
   about when used in the air-tight compartment of a submarine with the
   sparks of the electric motor?!!)


  I have read a book about every kind of scratch built rc-models. In it was
a sub, it looked quite bad, but I suggest that a lot of balsa and silicon
would do for your own sub. Yeah, rc-equipment is needed, and a lot of testing
w/o any electric devices inside the fuselage, but I think that it should be
quite easy to build a tight fuselage. Be sure to make the rc-hole very 
f*cking well sealed, you do NOT want any damaged batteries or so. (you can
"repair" no-salt-water damaged rc-stuff by letting it dry well case opened)

  But you must remember to dive it in water w/o salt, because salt water will
not allow radio energy pass thru it very well. I was planning to build one
some time ago, but then I realized that I have no place to dive it in. 

--
Teemu Hakala     |     E-Mail to :     | These opinions are mine, and so are
Kasavuorentie 9B | teemu@krksun.krk.fi | all those *ing mistakes. Do NOT think
02700 Kauniainen | Teemu.Hakala@krk.fi | abt. Radio Club when I make a mistake