HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: neilf@delfin.com (Neil Frank)
Subject: Re: Help! Freewheel wear!
Organization: Delfin Systems
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 16:33:41 GMT

sbtaves@icaen.uiowa.edu (Steven Bradley Taves) writes:
: 
: parts.   I was told when I bought the bike that I should replace the chain
: about every 4  months.  But I didnt get around to it until this week, which
: makes it about 6 or 7 months.  Now I have chain slippage when I get on it
: (pedal hard). I was told that it was the rear sprockets wearing with my
: old chain that now makes them incompatible with my new chain.  And I was told
: that I would need to replace the chainwheel and, freewheel, which would run me
: over $100.
: 

It is more how well you take care of the chain and how much it has been used 
rather than how long it has been on your bike...  Anyway, most chains can be
replaced without effecting performance if they are installed correctly... If
you are having problems with the freewheel and chain rings I suggest you check
the derailleur adjustments, most likely they need to be adjusted.  Also, I
don't know if you took apart the chain ring assembly to clean them... If you
did, then it is also possible that the chain rings are being bent by 
improperly tensioned bolts...  In other words, the 5 bolts that hold the
assembly together, need to be correctly tensioned otherwise the chain rings
are warpped sligtly causing the chain to skip...  

As in replacing the freewheel, I find this to be true only when the freewheel
has been used for quite sometime with the same chain....  The freewheel I
have on my bike (a Regina America) has been well used and I have yet to run
into problems when installing new chains....  As in the chain rings (Campy
Super Record) they have been on my bike for eight years now without one
single problem....  As a note, I tend to replace chains every 2000 miles...
In between changes, I make sure that the chain, freewheel, and chain rings
are clean and in good adjustment which can greatly add to the life of
a chain.....


-nlf-
-- 
Neil Frank		Delfin Systems		408-748-1200
neilf@delfin.com	Santa Clara, CA.
--              Wisdom is Gained Through Experience,            -- 
--        Experience is Gained Through Error.... "Unknown"      --
Organization: Johannes Kepler University Linz - Computing Center
Date: Thursday, 17 Dec 1992 10:01:06 CET
From: <K3018E9@ALIJKU11.BITNET>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Need tips on climbing hills w/ loose gravel
Distribution: usa

Try to breath as deeply as possible. To achieve this breath as slowly as
possible. Find a comfortale position on the bike.

S.
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:2675 rec.bicycles.misc:1559
From: nevai@mps.ohio-state.edu (Paul Nevai)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.misc
Subject: Trek 520 (or equivalent) - info is needed
Date: 15 Dec 1992 15:20:59 GMT
Organization: Department of Mathematics, The Ohio State University
Distribution: world
Reply-To: pali+@osu.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: ops.mps.ohio-state.edu
Originator: nevai@ops.mps.ohio-state.edu

I'm thinking of buying a Trek 520 (or maybe an equivalent touring or
sport-touring bike in the 1K range).  If you have any advice, opinion,
criticism, etc., please send me an email message.  Thanks. Take care...Paul

P.S. I am a happy owner of an 11 year old Schwinn Voyageur with a slightly
bent frame and a (formerly) happy (former) owner of a just stolen Schwinn
Crosscut (from the OSU Campus). BOTH are (were) FUN in their own way.


Paul Nevai                            nevai@mps.ohio-state.edu
Dept Math - Ohio State University     1-614-292-3317 (Office)
Columbus, Ohio 43210-1174, U.S.A.     1-614-292-1479 (Math Dept Fax)
From: dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: CAMPY CRANKS QUESTION;;;;;
Date: 15 Dec 92 01:45:24 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University


    I was wondering if it was possible to convert the Campy Record Crankset to
    be compatible (and work real well) with shimano Hyperglide.  I currently
    have a 600 STI grouppo.  The reason I am doing this is for the pure
    essence of beauty the Campy Cranks relay to the eyes as well as function.
    Either this or the Dura-Ace.

                                    Thanks for all help!

                                        -Dan

                                        
-- 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. McCauley IV
DHM1@NS3.CC.LEHIGH.EDU
Lehigh University
U.C. #29 Box 58A
Bethlehem, PA, 18015
From: Mike@f88.n106.z1.fidonet.org (Mike)
Sender: Jpunix@urchin.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Crank Pulling Problem!!!
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1992 23:24:00 -0500

DHM> I have a BIG problem.  I am trying to take the cranks off an old
frame
DHM> because the cranks are shot beyond belief.  I got one crank off but
the
DHM> other side (side with chainrings) the threads inside the crank
where th
DHM> crankpuller should screw in are totally stripped,

Try using a wheel/gear puller, the kind used to pull gears and stuff.
You may have to get one from a machine shop or auto parts. The kind I'm
talking about has arms that hook to the outside of the part to be
pulled
and a screw that pushes against the shaft to remove the gear, etc. They
come in different sizes so you shouldn't have a problem finding one to
fit.

 * SLMR 2.1a *       Take my advice, I don't use it anyway.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: you@taligent.com (Lawrence You)
Subject: Re: How to cold-set rear triangle to wider dropout width?
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Taligent, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 00:29:47 GMT

On a related subject...

I don't know if anyone mentioned this yet, but this year Bridgestone
spec'ed their RB-1 to have 128mm spacing if I'm not mistaken.  That's
right, not 126mm, not 130mm.  It turns out you can get the bike in either a
7-speed Superbe or an 8-speed Ultegra, so I guess they decided to kill two
birds with one stone and used one frame specification for both models.

Ooops.  Now I've done it.  This probably should have gone into
rec.bicycles.marketplace.  (So sue me. :-p)

-Lawrence

you@taligent.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: kenl@origami.cc.bellcore.com (Ken Lehner)
Subject: Shimano Road Shoes?
Keywords: duck_feet
Organization: Bellcore
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 16:24:12 GMT

Does anyone know how I can find out dealers (either local shops or mail/
catalog stores) that carry Shimano road bike shoes?  A phone # for Shimano
or their distributor (?) would be really helpful.

I use the R100, and I'm not sure if they make it any more.

Ken

P.S.  Does anyone know of road shoes that are wider than others?
Xref: sparky rec.bicycles.tech:2749 rec.bicycles.racing:940
From: h235_030@ccvax.ucd.ie (TOP GUN)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.bicycles.racing,rec.skating
Subject: RE: ASTM bicycle helmet standard coming
Date: 17 Dec 92 14:40:33 GMT
Organization: University College Dublin


In article <13DEC92.04080245@amazon.pfc.mit.edu>, stek@amazon.pfc.mit.edu writes:
> Regarding some standard on how well helmets stay on one's head, I suspect
> the biggest problem is finding a way to get people to adjust their
> helmets properly.  Some helmets are just plain more difficult to
> adjust.  It would be difficult to do, but their should be
> some standard for ease of adjustment/fit.  This would be harder
> to test, but would adress what i see as the larger problem.
> 
> Paul Stek
> Stek@pfc.mit.edu
THIS IS A TEST

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: bschwart@ferris.cray.com (Robert J. Schwartz)
Subject: Re: Cuts in Tires
Organization: Cray Research, Inc.
Date: 15 Dec 92 12:52:31 CST

I've had good luck booting casing cuts in both clinchers and tubulars
using duct tape or various reinforced packing tapes, whatever was
handy at the time. The thing to remember is that the tire casing has
lost support through the entire length of any cords that have been cut.
What I do is lay strips of tape across the cut, parallel to any cords
that have been cut. You get an X over the cut itself. For bigger cuts
use multiple layers. Duct tape works better because it's stickier, and
strength doesn't seem to be an issue.

I've used this method to produce bump-less tire boots for even very light
tubulars. It works better for narrower tires, I've had much less luck
squeezing extra miles out of MTB tires.

On a related subject, every so often somebody writes about booting a cut
tire in an emergency using a Power Bar wrapper, dollar bill, or some 
such. Carrying some duct tape and/or a piece of tubular casing in your
patch kit takes much of the adventure out of such situations. Tubular
casings work better than clinchers since with some brands you can peel 
the rubber from the casing, leaving a very thin layer of cords.

Bob Schwartz
bschwart@cray.com
From: Mike@f88.n106.z1.fidonet.org (Mike)
Sender: Jpunix@urchin.fidonet.org
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: SIS shifter questions
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 20:32:04 -0500

JKS>                     The shifter doesn't click into position as
JKS>positively as the one on my wifes bike which is similar. I think
JKS>that this might be part of the reason I am having difficulty in
JKS>adjusting the gears.

Have you tried replacing the cables and housings? This may help. Also
don't forget to adjust the angle of the derailluer to the chainstays.

 * SLMR 2.1a *    If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: ae505@yfn.ysu.edu (Frank Krygowski)
Subject: Re: Where's the Indexing?
Organization: Youngstown State University/Youngstown Free-Net
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 03:58:51 GMT


Hans-Joachim Zierke says: "There are some nice setups with old 
derailleurs: The old Suntour Superbe Tech might shift with Shimano
shifters, the old Huret Duopar with Suntour shifters."

Very Interesting!  How does one find out which levers would work
with which derailleurs?  My JUST pre-index Cannondale tourer has
a very nice SunTour Superbe Pro.  If I could get it to index with
just new levers (especially bar ends or SunTour Command shifters)
I'd be a happy man.

Frank Berto has a figure in his _Complete Guide to Upgrading..._
book which shows the cable pull for various levers, but more info
is needed.  Anybody got any?

Frank Krygowski ae505@yfn.ysu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: H.ZIERKE@BI-LINK.owl.de (Hans-Joachim Zierke)
Subject: Re: looking for DT Swiss address
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 92 07:04:00 +0100
X-Mailer: CrossPoint v2.0 R/211 [4F97]
X-Gateway: ZCONNECT UI bi-link.owl.de [RFC/Connect IIIb DOS v0.45]


On 09.12.92, ehouse@Apple.COM 
wrote about "Re: looking for DT Swiss address":

e> In addition, what they were able to tell me isn't enough for me to judge 
e> the quality of the system.  I'd happily pay that much for a 90%-efficient 
e> dynamo designed, built and warranteed to last 100,000 miles, but it's too 
e> early to tell if that's what this unit will offer.

You won't see a 90%-efficient bicycle dynamo. With big, heavy, standing
machines you might get 90% in some cases.

A Sanyo Dynapower is about 25% efficient, the bottom bracket dynamos of 
Union and Soubitez 35-40%, the new Union 9001 40-45%.  Engineers working
on this told me that the borderline for hub generators might be 70%, but
the DT hub will not reach this (a 70% efficient hub dynamo will always
be bigger than the DT).



Ciao
Hajo

--
Hans-Joachim Zierke  ##  Tel.: +49-30 / 394 8445  ##  Fax: +49-30 / 394 8447
                   h.zierke@tbx.berlinet.in-berlin.de 

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sjlt@leland.Stanford.EDU (Sean Lev-Tov)
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 92 17:18:14 GMT

In article <1992Dec14.050719.86107@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> dhm1@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DANIEL HILL MCCAULEY) writes:
>
>    I have a BIG problem.  I am trying to take the cranks off an old frame
>    because the cranks are shot beyond belief.  I got one crank off but the
>    other side (side with chainrings) the threads inside the crank where the
>    crankpuller should screw in are totally stripped, by some unknown reason.
>    Maybe a bike shop pulled a fast one years ago and replaced the cap nice
>    and tight so that I couldn't see the damage.  Well my question is:  How
>    should I go about taking this crank off without damaging the bottom
>    bracket shell.  I don't give a damn about the cranks, I'll break them if I
>    have to.  I already tried getting the fixed cup off, but failed.  I also
>    don't care about the bottom bracket.  All suggestions welcomed.
>    Thanks!!!!!!!
>
>                                                -Dan

	I had the same problem earlier this year.  A friend lent me an
	automotive tool called a pulley-puller.  It kind of has an adjustable
	claw that pulls on the spider of the crank while a screw in the
	center pushes on the spindle.  The screw was too big and I had to
	put a narrower bolt between the spindle and the tool.  I ended up
	breaking off one of the spider arms, and was then able to get a
	good grip and pull the crank off without damage to the frame or
	bottom bracket.  Maybe you could check at a car-service place for
	one of these tools.

	Sean Lev-Tov
	sjlt@leland.stanford.edu
From: mellon@a.chem.upenn.edu (Matthew T. Mellon)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: CRANK PULLING PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Summary: TOO MUCH TROUBLE
Keywords: TRY SOMETHING MORE BASIC
Date: 15 Dec 92 07:57:00 GMT
Organization: University of Pennsylvania

My goodness!!
	Hacksaws?  Sawzalls?  Put the fixed cup in a vise and use the
frame as a wrench (wouldn't the spider sorta kinda be in the way?)?

	Come, come now.  I've done this twice within the past few weeks.
The best, most time-saving, least costly, least destructive to the bike,
is to, no matter how much it hurts, remove the fixed cup.  Period.

	Here's how:  If a chainring is in the way, remove first off.
Be prepared to shed a little blood with each of these steps, as chainrings
do tend to pierce flesh with great efficiency--trust me--wear thick gloves.
Second, get that fixed cup out--no excuses.  Shoot the BB full of oil (I use
TriFlow, which works) from both sides--really load that sucker.  Then get
a closed BB fixed cup wrench (though I don't like how thin most Park wrenches
are, this is the only thing that will work here--it has a small opening to 
pass it over the spindle).  You may need another person to apply pressure
against the wrench towards the frame, in order to prevent a rather painful
slip.  Then, get that cup out!  Once out, put the crank in a vice, nice and
tight.  Then aim it towards a safe place, and hammer that spindle out of the
crank.  Be warned, it may get severly damaged, but $8 is no great loss for a 
new spindle, compared with hours of hacksawing, blade after blade after blade.
Anyway, it'll be off, and your BB cups will be OK (just pay attention to where
it lands).

	Jeez.  I sure hope nobody was going to suggest cutting the BB out
of the frame and welding in a new one.  Oh, about that retapping idea--the
metal for the threads has been stripped OUT, i.e. it's gone.  Forever.  You
could only tap it for a diameter larger than that of a crank puller.

	Hope I shed some simple wisdom.


				Mechanically yours,

					Matt




Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Need tips on climbing hills w/ loose gravel
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 92 09:15:17 GMT

In article <1992Dec16.183327.26048@u.washington.edu> miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:
>In article <1gnqetINNsaj@male.EBay.Sun.COM> warriors@eb5ts4.EBay.Sun.COM (Dave Maycon) writes:
>>I am talking about steep hills w/ loose gravel.  Does anybody have any
>>rules of thumb when combating these hills.
>>       
>Keep your butt on the seat and use the highest gear you comfortably
>can to keep from spinning out.  Hitting it with a lot of speed helps 
>too

but leverage may be a problem, too.  you'll probably find yourself
wanting to stand on the pedals to get more power, and that when you
do, the rear wheel starts skidding.  you end up balancing the need
for more power with the need for traction.  if you don't have bar
ends, you might want to try them out.  i recently got some, and they
help a lot.  if nothing else, they allow me to stretch out over the
bike (mine are l-bend) which helps my breathing, too.

are your tires up to it?  there's a big difference between a set of
smokes and a set of cheng-shin city tires.

-teddy
p.s.  this topic probably shouldn't be in rec.bicycles.tech.
more like rec.bicycles.misc, i think.  it can be hard to figure
out which newsgroup is the right one these days.

Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: praetzel@maxwell.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel)
Subject: Re: XTR 8SPD and thumb shifters.
Organization: University of Waterloo
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 15:40:17 GMT

In article <truesdel-171292185304@mac_dungeon.ics.uci.edu> truesdel@ics.uci.edu (Scott Truesdell) writes:

>Why are none of us surprised?!!!!  It has long been a sore point with
>consumers regarding Shimano's utter disdain for those who would dare
>challenge Shimano's engineer's omniscience regarding what parts absolutely
>cannot be used with any other parts.

I love the company.  Without them Suntour would probably still not be marketing
the slant parallelgram very well and we would still be awash in that idiotic
layout that Campy came out with oh-so-many decades ago.  Yes there are duds
along the way but then I don't usually buy first generation Shimano stuff.  You
have to remember that racing teams do tend to use the top of the line stuff
for a year before it hits the market and so it usually has some of the bugs
worked out.
  Now about those statements.  What is wrong with disclaimers.  How do you
look at a the disclaimers that are on other items (ie my new goggles "
This lens is not designed to withstand severe impact nor is it designed for
protective pruposes against hard objects.  The lens is for protection from
wind and snow only.  No goggle can protect the wearer against all potential
impact".  You have to remember that there are people out there who will take
out their 7 speed HG wheel and throw in a new 8 speed one.  When it all of
a sudden shifts on them during a stand and sprint moment all that they (and
their lawyers) can think of is sueing Shimano.  Would you expect a 5 to 6
speed swap to work?  Get real.  Disclaimers are inane but they are a sign of
the times not Shimano.
  Shimano is innovation.  Sometimes just for the sake of it but at least they
have draged Campy out of the stone age.  Now you can get dept store bikes
that are easier to use (a lot of people still seem to have trouble with
derailleurs though) and top of the line bikes that may not be faster (thats
upto the rider) but at least are a bit more fault tolerant (in the sense of
being able to shift where you could not with the old equipment).
  If I ever bought Campy it would be to hang on a wall because I would 
certainly never want to ride it.  Shimano.  Can't help but love them.
  - Eric
From: byczko@evax.gdc.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Chain design question (was chain maint)
Date: 16 Dec 92 18:27:25 GMT
Organization: General DataComm, Middlebury CT



	Regarding the question of special chain design to improve wear.
Jobst states the cheif menace of chain wear to be abrasive grit in the
pins. An additional factor is lack of lubrication.

	The motorcycle industry solution to this problem was the "O-ring"
chain; a seal that retains lubricant and prevents grit entry to the
roller pins.  Has this been explored with bicycle chains?  Would friction
be too high? Is it too expensive compared to a $5-10 throw-away conventional
chains? Perhaps someone on the net (Jobst?) has heard of this.

						Joe Byczko
From: mk@bigfoot.first.gmd.de (Matthias Kessler)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: XTR 8SPD and thumb shifters.
Date: 18 Dec 92 11:39:10 GMT
Organization: GMD-FIRST, Berlin

In article <BzDLHx.HoA@hfglobe.intel.com> jimw@hfglobe.intel.com (Jim Williams) writes:
>I was just told that you could use XTR hub and cog with XT thumb shifters
>and XT derailer.  Is This True?

YES! I use this setup since June and it works great. There's an eight click
in the thumbshifters which is for overshifting into the largest cog if your
drivetrain isn't properly adjusted. I've heard that this only works if you
use XT shifters *and* and XT rear derailuer. The XTR deral. doesn't work.
I haven't tried an XTR so I'm not sure if this is true.

The eight makes a diference. I have two MTBs. One with slicks, more a road
bike than a MTB. There the 13t between the 12 and the 14 is very noticeable
and on the real MTB the 12-32 gives you everything you need!

-- 
 Matthias Kessler, GMD-FIRST|                 | One Less Car !
 Germany, 1199 Berlin       | mk@first.gmd.de | Zappa for President
 Rudower Chaussee 5         |                 | #define Kohl void                                           
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: keenan@kanga.aero.org (Don Keenan)
Subject: Kestrel warranty
Organization: The Aerospace Corporation; El Segundo, CA
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1992 16:08:01 GMT

There has been a discussion of Kestrel's warranty. I recently bought a 
Kestrel and the Kestrel (not Schwinn) warranty is a lifetime warranty
on the frame for the original owner. 

In addition, if the frame damage is not covered by the warranty (i.e.
an accident) within the first five years of ownership, you may replace 
the frame at a reduced cost not to exceed one-half the current retail
price.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: chandler@wc.novell.com (Mark Chandler)
Subject: Re: Anyone using an 11-tooth cog?
Organization: Novell, Inc. - Walnut Creek
Distribution: rec
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1992 05:36:33 GMT

In article <PATRICK.92Dec14210839@casbs.Stanford.EDU> patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Goebel) writes:

[ 11-tooth cog stuff deleted]

>Question 2: What does it mean to "screw" the 11-tooth cog onto a *7*
>            speed cassette?  Does it take the place of the lock ring?

Yes, it replaces the lock ring.  Someone is offering Ti lock rings
and freehub fixing bolts (the large bolt that holds the "freewheel"
to the freehub) as well.

>Question 3: Do any other cassette hub manufactures (e.g. Campy, Mavic)
>            offer an 11-tooth cog option?

SunTour's MicroDrive uses an 11-tooth cog.  It's available in 11-24;
with 11-26 and 11-28 coming soon.

>Question 4: Are there any inherent problems in using such a small cog?

SunTour admits to having some problems with the early run(s) of their
11t cogs.  They claim that they haven't had any problems with the newer
ones (and will replace faulty ones).

>Many thanks for your help or opinions.
>
>Patrick Goebel                    E-MAIL: patrick@casbs.Stanford.EDU
>Network Administrator             VOICE:  (415) 321-2052
>CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd.   FAX:    (415) 321-1192
>Stanford, CA 94305                BEEPER: Temporarily Out of Order...


--
Mark Chandler               Novell, Inc.          510/975-4522
chandler@wc.novell.com      Walnut Creek, CA
==================================================================
     The opinions expressed above are mine, not my employer's.
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: iba@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Wayne Iba)
Subject: querey on poor-man's fiberglass (attn: Steve K. Roberts)
Organization: NASA/ARC Information Sciences Division
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 21:59:00 GMT


One at least one of BEHEMOTH's predecessors, they used
a "poor-man's fiberglass" to construct the trailer body.
As I recall, this consisted primarily of corrugated cardboard.  

Does anyone have construction specifications for this
stuff, or something similar that is durable, yet cheap and
easy to do?  A pointer to Steve Roberts' current email
address would probably be useful in lieu of actual instructions.

The idea here is to build a full-fairing for a very low recumbent
cycle (either 2 or 3 wheels), so if you have other ideas pertaining
to this, please send those along as well.

Thanks,
--wayne
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech