HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: djt@merlin.caltech.edu (David Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re:      Re: Drawers
Date: 26 Jan 93 21:01:00 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology
NNTP-Posting-Host: merlin.caltech.edu
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41

In article <9301261524.AA03230@edwards-scy.af.mil>,
"Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL> writes...

>      I also find myself building drawers for a secretary that I am
>      building.  

*** Stuff deleted...

Hi Jim,

	I find myself in need of a secretary too, could you send me the
plans you are using to build yours? I don't particularly care if she
has drawers or not, as I am sure she would look equally good in a dress!

					Dave.
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: Forstner bits...
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 16:01:19 GMT

In article <1993Jan19.194623.25188@kodak.kodak.com>,
kroth@sunshine.Kodak.COM (David Kroth) writes:

> Anyone ever used a forstner bit in a hand held electric drill?
> What were the results like? 

> I need to drill a 1 3/8" hole for a clock movement (a mini clock
> from Clockit).  I am willing to spend $20 for a forstner bit
> but not $300 for a drill press.  If I buy the bit, will it even
> be useable?

I have used forstners up to 1 7/8" in a hand held drill, the larger the bit
the harder it is to control however. Since this is a one time deal I would
go ahead and use it, be sure to clamp your work piece securely and start the
forstner dead vertical (it will tell you if it isn't vertical :-). You won't
get as good a pocket as you would with a drill press, but if you are careful
it should be acceptable.

			-Pete-

* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *
From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 27 Jan 93 19:38:08 GMT
Organization: CTS Network Services (crash, ctsnet), El Cajon, CA


	I had to stop work in the shop until I got some rest and my fingers
healed.  The fingers are fine with only the lose of feeling on the tip of one.
The project ships Friday.  So I can get back to completing worthwile things
and not sattelite passengers to examine the Polar Ozone.

	I have a sewing seat nearly completed.  It uses Melmine covered MDF
with Oak trim and a plastic sliding tray.  The first one used file folder
rods and is complete.  The second needs opulustory (sp?) to complete and the
last needs assembly.

	A christmas Music box needs ears and finish to complete.  THe sewing
desk is designed and ready for wood and my daughters study desk needs the last
trip to the lumber yard for the piece that I screwed up and I need to install
the door to her doll house.

	DonB
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 13:42:59 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject:      Re: wood filler
              22 Jan 1993 07:01:34 -0600 from <mvrjl@CBNEWSG.CB.ATT.COM>

On Fri, 22 Jan 1993 07:01:34 -0600 robert.j.lansing said:
>I'm looking for a decent wood filler to repair some chips
>in a piece of furniture (wood species - fir).  In the
>past I've tried various wood fillers - plastic wood,
>Elmers wood filler, etc - they don't work very well..
>Any recommendations?
>
>-Bob Lansing
>mvrjl@mvgpf.att.com

I just received a copy of Woodworkers Supply Finishing catalog (or something
like that).  The info it contains is about 80% finishes and the like.  They
have a colored-stick-wax thingy that you heat up and drip over the damaged
area and let cool, you then heat up a special tool again and scrape off the
excess.  Lots of colors, I'd never seen this stuff before although it's
probably been around for awhile.  My mother-in-law has some Ethan Allen
furniture that was damaged during a move and I've been wondering if this
would be a good application....basic wood fillers just won't do..
This "system" of wood repair has a proper name but I don't have the catalog
with me..

Jeff Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALL
From: markw@hpcss01.cup.hp.com (Mark Williams)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 18:05:16 GMT
Subject: Re: HOCK INFO PLEASE
Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking

Hock plane blades are excellent replacement blades available in sizes for most
hand planes, from small block planes to 2-5/8" jointers.  They are made from
very high carbon steel which is very hard (Rockwell hardness 62).
They can be sharpened keenly and hold an edge very well.  

Interestingly, they are made by a small company in Mendocino, Ca.  They are
widely distributed, ranging in price from $18-25.  Sources are Garrett Wade,
Whole Earth Access, Woodworkers Supply.

Note that for hand tools, high carbon steel give the sharpest edge but is
brittle.  For this reason, old plane blades and modern Japanese plane blades
were laminated: high carbon cutting edge, mild steel or iron backing.  This
was and still is a good way to build a hand plane blade.  With careful 
tempering, a blade can be made of high carbon steel which is very hard 
at the cutting edge, but softer and more resilient for the rest of the blade.
All files are made that way, high carbon steel tempered hard for cutting
but annealed soft at the handle.  You can see the discoloration on most
new files from the annealing on the handle.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bclaus@cs.wright.edu (Brian Clausing)
Subject: Re: Polycarbonate prices (was: Re: want to drill and thread holes)
Organization: Wright State University
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 17:59:47 GMT

From article <4177@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca>, by clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis):
> In article <4320154@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes:
>>>In article <4320145@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>>>   You want to use a little thicker material, but 3/8" ought to do it.  With
>>>>   3/8" polycarbonate, you will have plenty of strength.  Also, the stuff
>>>>   is does not pick up scratches like lexan or other types of acrylic.
> 
	[ Polycarbonate and acrylic (polyacrylate) are two different
	kinds of polymers. ]
	[ Discussion of correspondent's diction deleted. ]
> 
> If you hadn't had the phrase "other types of", I'd only be able to remark
> that Lexan doesn't scratch any worse than any other kind of polycarbonate.
>

Furthermore, Lexan isn't polycarbonate: it is polyacetal.  Lexan is
resistant to scratching and last time I looked was rather expensive.

Brian Clausing
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Subject: Re: What wood goes well with Birch-veneer ply?
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 23:58:16 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.143004.9637@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> 
walsha@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com (It ain't what they call you, it's what you answer
to. -Bill Clinton) writes:

>I love birch venner ply. Does anyone have any ideas on an
>common wood to use for trim if you like the look of natural wood?

>-- somthing that goes well with birch or stains the same shade.

A few years ago, before I had a table saw, I built a huge (60"H X 66"W X 30"D)
computer desk/cabinet/bookshelf entirely out of 3/4" birch ply.  I brought the
computer-designed plans for the plywood pieces to the local lumber yard and
they cut the more difficult pieces to my specs.  Then I had them rip some 8'
1-by birch into 1/4" thick strips which I used to edge-band all the plywood.
The desk came out beautiful (stained a dark color and waxed) and is still in
perfect shape after 7 years of daily use.  I still have some of the original
1/4" edge-banding stock in my wood pile.  It's the best stuff for birch ply,
in my opinion.

Regards,

Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, California
badboy@netcom.com
From: steveo@think.com (stephen anthony)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: workbench height
Date: 26 Jan 1993 20:21:36 GMT
Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation, Cambridge MA, USA
Distribution: usa
NNTP-Posting-Host: custard.think.com


In thinking about the design of a workbench for myself, I quickly decided 
on the width and length. However, the height dimension seems a little 
more difficult to figure out. I thought I'd see what net.wisdom had to
offer for ideas.

I'm 6'2", and plan to use the bench primarily for hand tool work. Planing,
shooting, dovetailing, etc. I will probably be doing some router work
also. So, what height is appropriate? I believe (I don't have the plans
in front of me) that Frid's bench is 33" high. I think (but am not sure)
that this would be too low. Would 35" be more appropriate? 34"? Other?
Maybe 1 or 2 inches doesn't matter all that much, as long as it's in a 
reasonable range?

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

Steveo
-- 
Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
Software Engineer              	  |   with out singin' the blues"     |
(617) 234-4000                    |                                   |
steveo@think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |
From: simpson@steam.Xylogics.COM (Reid Simpson)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: ROUTER TABLES
Date: 28 Jan 93 19:29:25 GMT
Reply-To: simpson@steam.Xylogics.COM (Reid Simpson)
Organization: Xylogics, Inc. Burlington, MA, USA 01810

The adjuster knob and tube is useful for accuracy but turning it 50
times in a confined, upside-down position is rather tedious. I use mine
but I wish I knew of a better solution...

Reid.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reid Simpson							 Xylogics, Inc.
Software Engineer			     53 Third Ave. Burlington, MA 01803
simpson@Xylogics.COM						   617-272-8140
From: ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Date: 28 Jan 93 17:53:33 GMT
Reply-To: ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com (Jamshed B. Ghandhi)
Organization: Becton Dickinson Research Center


 In article 2294@bdrc.bdrc.bd.com, ghandhi@bdrc.bd.com 
(Jamshed B. Ghandhi) writes:
|>
|> Talking about the Delta Deluxe Unigard (new version 
of the old Uniguard) 
|>
|>>Can you or somebody describe to the rest of us in 
some 
|>>detail how it mounts? 
|>
|>Sure, I'll try.  To start with, this guard differs 
|>from the old unigard in that the vertical support is 
|>on the right instead of the left.  Keeping this in 
|>mind, the device includes a large, U-shaped piece of 
|>steel tubing ~ 2 in. OD.  
|>
|>
|>                   OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
|>                 OO   WW                    O
|>             OOOO                           O
|>      _______I_I___________________________ O
|>      I  X         X   IOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOXOOOO
|>      I  front of saw  I
|>      I                I
|>

Thanks for this information. Your ASCII diagrams were
quite helpful.
********
Following, Robert Haar asks
********
A couple of questions:

How high can the guard be raised above the table top? 
( I would need
about 5" clearance for a sliding cutoff table that I 
use.)

Can the the whole guard be remove or swung out of the 
way easily? 
(There are some operations such making the cheek cuts 
on tenons
that would seem to require this.)
*****************

And I respond;

The two-piece guard can be "flipped up" like the old 
uniguard giving a roughly 5 inch vertical clearance.  
Also, the bent portion of the "arm" up to the utility 
backet (WW in the ascii diagram) can be removed 
quickly by unscrewing a single knob.  Finally, the 
entire are could be removed/tilted out of the way by 
loosening 3 nuts.

Jamshed B. Ghandhi
Computer Aided Engineering
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: rangwal@wk56.nas.nasa.gov (Akil A. Rangwalla)
Subject: Re: Cabinet Making Schools
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, California
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 93 08:04:26 GMT

In article <1993Jan19.134529.6503@shearson.com> bprisco@shearson.com writes:
>How do you go about finding schools that offer carpentry
>and/or cabinet making?
>
>I have checked the continuing education classes offered by
>the local high schools and came up with nothing.
>
>I'm looking for schools that are located in the Long
>Island area of New York.
>
>Many thanks in advance.
>
>Bobby Prisco
>bprisco@shearson.com
>

I have a similar request as above.  I'm looking for schools in
the Bay area.  If anyone knows of one, either post or email to
me.  Thanks.

Akil.
From: wack@ariel.ncsl.nist.gov (John Wack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Name your favorite blade
Date: 22 Jan 93 21:48:13 GMT
Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology

In article <1993Jan22.180121.16097@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> apoyner@as.arizona.edu writes:
>In article 4987@ttinews.tti.com, bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas) writes:
>>I was actually intending to get the Freud but needed the blade in a hurry
>>(like today) and the only one available locally was a Pirahna.  The cuts
>>on my table saw (with the 50 combo) are smooth as glass so I have no
>>complaints, perhaps I just got lucky.
>>
>
>I think you got lucky.  I already had this blade when I bought my contractor's
>saw, so I thought I was fixed up.  Wrong.  I was most disappointed in the 
>quality of the cut.  I eventually bought a Forrest and the delight in the
>quality is finally obscuring the pain of the price (like childbirth?  :-)
>

I've got both blades.  The Pirahna's cut was great at first, but seemed
to dull much quicker than the Freud combo - using the same material, etc.
I think the Freud combo is a pretty good blade and seems more stiff than
the Pirahna.  I've had both resharpened mail-order at WoodCraft and the
Pirahna cuts pretty well, but the Freud still seems to slide through the
wood better.  My local woodshop's owners recommend the Freud and advise
against the Oldham (sp?) blades, based on customer comments.

-John Wack


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: hope@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (edward m.hope)
Subject: Re: Spiral Cutting Jig
Organization: AT&T
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:52:59 GMT

In article <9301201534.AA04458@edwards-scy.af.mil> "Jim Johnson 7-9535 (6518 TS/EN)" <jjohnson@EDWARDS-SCY.AF.MIL> writes:
>      Do any of you have plans, comments or experiences with making a jig to
>      cut reeds and spirals into dowels?  The jig would obviously have to
>      index the cutter to the dowel location for the spirals for
>      repeatability.  Maybe some magazine has run an article on the subject.
>       I would appreciate any help you netters can offer.
>
>       James Johnson
>       Standard Disclaimer



I believe Sears has a gizmo that you can attach a router to to make spirals.
Although I have not used this gizmo, reviews I've read have been positive.

Has anybody used this gizmo or know its real name?

Ed Hope

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: mlord@bmers63.bnr.ca (Mark Lord)
Subject: New Workbench (was Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....)
Organization: BNR, Ottawa, Canada
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 22:14:06 GMT

Well.. I just finished a big project, so to speak.

A workbench.. the type with a big end-vise and lots of dog holes.

This particular bench is based on the new plans from Veritas Tools 
(a spin-off of Lee Valley Tools).  They have a series of bench clamping
gadgets that work well with a 7.75" grid of 49/64" (3/4") holes, and have
designed a rigid, easy to construct bench to go with them (or the other way
around.. the gizmos go with the bench?).

The distinguishing feature of this bench, is that it uses a 2.5" thick 
top, laminated from hardwood plywood, which makes it easy to achieve a
stiff, thick, and flat working surface.  The top is made up from two, 2" thick
laminated slabs, 10-11" wide, and about 6' long.  These are then glued down
onto a .5" plywood "substrate", with a 4-5" gap between them to form a central
tool trough.  Then the 7.75" hole (round doggies) grid is laid out and drilled,
giving zillions of possible clamping configurations.  

Finally, I added a perimeter skirt of 2x6 maple, drilled for doggie holes on
the sides, to made a very rigid and HEAVY work surface.  Fantastic!!

The whole thing sits on top of a maple trestle [sic] base, held together by
a combination of lag bolts and long threaded rods (all concealed).

Total weight:  somewhere between 200 and 300 lbs.  

To all of that I added the novel "twin screw" end vice from Vertias, with a
large maple jaw drilled for dogs on the sides and top, matching those on the
main benchtop.  This vice uses a pair of 1.25" acme thread screws, with small
sprockets and a bicycle chain connecting them, causing them to turn in unison
when either handle is used.  Nifty.  

Next on the list:  a curvey study table for my SO.
From: jayl@kiddercreek.Eng.Sun.COM (Jay Littlepage)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: 9.6v vs 12v cordless drills
Date: 22 Jan 1993 15:16:38 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Distribution: world
Reply-To: jayl@kiddercreek.Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: kiddercreek

In article Mux@hfglobe.intel.com, gregt@hfglobe.intel.com (Greg Tollefson) writes:
>
>
>
>I am looking into cordless drills.  What is the performance gain by
>going to the 12v cordless.  The cost adder is 20-30%.  Can both 
>handle 3" drywall screws into 2x4's?  Any other WOW.
>
>Greg T.
>
>
>-- 


i bought the porter-cable magnaquench when it first came out (around 4
years ago?) and was the only 12v on the market.  i wanted to be able to
drive 2 1/2" + drywall screws as well as lag screws (with pilot
holes).  it's a champ - i haven't tryed any reasonable driving task
that it hasn't handled.  one of my best tool investments, and well
worth the premium, IMHO.  my only complaints are that 1) it's a heavy
bugger if you're using it at awkward angles and 2) porter-cable hasn't
come out with any other tools that could share the battery pack.
---
-----------------------------
Jay Littlepage
Sun Technology Enterprises IR
jayl@kiddercreek.Eng.Sun.COM
(415) 336-3525
(415) 961-1604 fax
-----------------------------


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: stevep@sparky.se.hou.compaq.com (Steve Pinn)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 26 Jan 93 19:26:03 GMT
Reply-To: pinn@cpqhou.se.hou.compaq.com
Organization: Compaq Computer Corporation

Great idea!

I have just recently finished a walnut china cabinet for our dining room,
the design leans towards spanish and (hopefully) complements the table
and chairs that I built 15 years ago! (my wife is happy)

6 months ago I completed a queen anne style coffee table, the top is a
wonderfully figured walnut burl the legs are cabriole with a trifid foot.

Currently I am making to end table (side tables) for our living room to
go along with the coffee table.  Tops are once again walnut burl (veneer
applied over walnut lumber core ply) with the same style of legs as the
coffee table.

At the same time I am buiding a dressing table for my daughter.  The style
is basically a Newport, bracket feet, the material is all cherry solids.
In the past when building case work I have used plywood or raised panels
this is the first piece that I have built which has to take in all aspects
of wood movement and it is quite a challenge.  The tops of this dressing
table and the drawer fronts are curly cherry, the figure is wonderful.
I looks as if the wood was flaming (no comments please).  I am going
to try my first attempt at carving shells on the lower drawer fronts.

I uncovered two "tricks" while building these projects that I would like
to share, both center around VIX bits, these are used to help center
pilot holes when mounting hinges.  The first is that a VIX bit is excellent
to center a pilot hole when mounting and piece of material which has
already been drilled and countersunk.  In the past I have had trouble centering
the pilot hole when attaching one piece to another.

The second is in mounting moulding using french dovetails.  These are 1/4"
dovetails cut inside the moulding, the "pin" portion is mounted to the
case and the mouding slips over the pin.  This allows the wood to move
without cracking the case or moulding.  The difficulty is when you are
mounting the "pin" portion to the case, keeping it aligned so that the
moulding goes on correctly.  I took a 3" long piect of the moulding drilled
a 1/4 inch hole throught it from the bottom so that it was centered in the
dovetail.  I then bored that out to 1/2 inch.  Install the pin slide into 
the jig moulding and hold it in position against the case.  The access hole
lets you mark the pin so that the pin can be screwed to the case and then
a VIX bit can be used through the access hole to drill the pilot in the
case.  The result seems to be a well aligned piece of moulding.  

In reading my own post it seems extremely confusing without a diagram, if
anyone wants a clearer description or diagram please call or mail.

Have fun - Steve (713-374-4304 - day)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: baziuk@bcarh452.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Walter Baziuk)
Subject: Re: Pipe clamp pipe summary?
Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 20:52:27 GMT

In article <C1Kwv8.LHL@cgl.ucsf.edu>, edman@cgl.ucsf.edu (Jeff Edman) writes:
|> I recall seeing a discussion (or several) on the use of black  vs
|> galvanized vs aluminum
|> 3/4" pipe for clamps. After pricing black pipe last weekend ($10/5 ft;
|> threaded), I concluded
|> that there must be something cheaper.
|> 
|> Does anyone have or wish to summarize the pipe clamp pipe discussion?
|> 
|> Thanks.

Theck out your local junk/scrap dealer. New black
pipe is expensive around here also. I managed to get
3/4"x5' black pipe from a local place (Cohen's) for only
$2.00 a piece. The threaded pieces were actually longer
than i need, but they cut them to length for us!

As long as the pipe is true, who needs new ones?

-- 
Walter Baziuk  P.Eng                              Bell-Northern Research
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bitnet/Internet: baziuk@bnr.ca                    VOICE:  (613) 763-4334
UUCP:            uunet!bnrgate!baziukbcarh452    FAX:    (613) 763-2626
Surface Mail: Stop 145, P.O.Box 3511, Station C, Ottawa, Canada, K1Y 4H7
------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I just want to be the Norm Abrams of System Engineering"
          My opinions are my own and no one else's
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
X-VMS-To: IN%"WOODWORK%IPFWVM.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU"
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 1993 08:50:16 -0500
From:         "Wile E. Coyote" <BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU>
Subject:      Hock or other replacement blades

Greetings!

Jon R. Bryan writes:

> ...stuff deleted.
>I wasn't happy with the Stanley until I put a Hock iron in it.  Now it's
>really sweet, but cost an extra $20.  Record might (or might not) use
>better steel.

Where did you get your Hock iron?  The only place I've seen them advertised is
in Woodcraft's mail order catalog.  I'd like to shop around to find a good
price.

Does anyone know of other aftermarket plane blade manufacturers?  Any
recommendations?  Thanks!

.......
:  o/ : Bruce Hulsey
: <|  : Univ. of Arkansas for Medical Sciences
: / > : internet: bbhulsey@life.uams.edu
:.....: bitnet:   bbhulsey@uams