HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: dvr@doofus.b15.ingr.com (Village Idiot)
Subject: road bike gearing
Keywords: gears, ratios, road bikes
Reply-To: dvr@doofus.b15.ingr.com
Organization: Intergraph Corp. Huntsville Al.
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 15:16:45 GMT

Howdy!

I have 2 road bikes that I bought new when I lived in flatland country.
Now that I live in northern Alabama, I've found that the gearing just
does not offer me low enough gears so that I can make it up the long
hills around here.  Both bikes have 6 cog freewheels and 2 chainrings.

The Schwinn has a 52-40 chainring set and 28-14 freewheels with a
Suntour Cyclone derailleur.

The Raleigh has a 52-40 chainring set and 28-13 freewheels with a
Shimano 600 derailleur.

What I'm looking for is a way to get more of a "low-end" in my
gearing on both bikes (i.e. "granny" gears).  I've heard something
about derailleur "carrying" capacity (??) but I'm not sure what
it is for these 2 derailleurs.  Should I buy a smaller (fewer teeth)
chainring for each bike, larger (more teeth) freewheel cog, or both?
Will these derailleurs "handle" this range of gears???  Help!
-- 
*******************************************************************************

Doug Roberts                             E-mail: dvr@doofus.b15.ingr.com
Senior System Engineer
Federal Systems Division                 Phone: 205-730-1760
Intergraph Corporation
Mail Stop IW1510                         FAX: 205-730-6956
Huntsville, AL  35894-0001

*******************************************************************************
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: That ole dishless wheel...
Date: 17 Nov 92 15:42:56 GMT
Organization: University of Exeter, UK.


Right. I've got some actual real numbers on this, after someone pointed out
a bit of a flaw with my offset rear triangle theory.

OK, start with a standard MTB with 135mm rear axle and 122.5mm BB spindle.
Measurements of the rear hub (based on Campag' Olympus) are :

Drive side locknut to drive side flange = 45mm
Drive side flange to other flange = 60mm
Other flange to other locknut = 30mm

On a standard wheel, the rim is 67.5mm from either locknut. If we put the rim
directly between the flanges, we have to move it 7.5mm away from the drive side
With me so far? Good. To get the rim back on the centreline of the bike, you
then have to offset the rear triangle 7.5mm towards the drive side. Then, to
regain correct chainline, you need a 7.5mm longer BB spindle. 122.5+7.5=130mm
I know these exist. If you used one with fully adjustable chainline, you'd be
well on the way. I think that sorts than one out, unless anyone thinks of 
anything I've forgotten??

Mikey D

-- 
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: Terry.Parks@launchpad.unc.edu (Terry Parks)
Subject: Handlebar stem from hell
Organization: UNC Office of Information Technology
Distribution: na
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 00:34:48 GMT

I have an aluminum frame Trek with Shimano components. I cannot
get the handlebar stem (I believe that's what it is called) to
come out. The wedge is loose (I can hear it shake up and down).
I've tried pounding it down to loosen it, using larger and larger
hammers and have simply flattened out the top. I hooked a winch
to it and pulled to about 1000 pounds but nothing happened. I took
a rod, put it through the bottom, through the wedge and banged on
the bottom, to no avail. I put the stem in a vise and tugged on the
fork with a three-foot pipe. I've liberally applied loosening oil
throughout my trials. Comments please?

--
   The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of
     North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information
        Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service.
           internet:  laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: sesh@leland.Stanford.EDU (John Christophe Schlesinger)
Subject: Re: CHANGING TO STI??????
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 92 02:51:02 GMT

To the guy looking to switch over from 7-speed 105 downtube shifters to STI:
I must disagree with everyone else who says you need to go out and spend all
that money on a new 8 speed freewheel.  I have seen people with STI on 7 speed
stuff and (supposedly) it works OK.  The only thing is that the shifters have
one extra "click" at one end of their range where the derailleur doesn't
move anything (since they're 8 speed shifters, they have 8 clicks, rather than
7), but other than that, I think they'll work fine with what you've got.
From: cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale MTB's (was Cannondale Crit)
Date: 18 Nov 92 10:37:30 GMT
Organization: Computer Unit. - University of Exeter. UK

Gregory D. Surbeck writes:

   >One problem he has had with it is the components -- they wear out.
   >This isn't a remark launched at frame quality, but at their choice of
   >components.  The Suntour (XC Pro?) have just not stood up to standard
   >mtn. bike abuse.  He has lost front chainrings during cranking, broken
   >the cassette, etc.  He has had to invest over $100 in replacing broken
   >components during normal mtn. biking since February.  When he took it
                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

As the self-appointed Defender of the Realm of SunTour, I can't let this pass
:-). First, define "Normal mtn. biking". I have broken SunTour components, but
only through my own carelessness. Don't take this as an insult to your friend,
but in my experience premature component failures are usually due to either
poor maintenance or excessively aggressive :-) riding style. If your friend's
definition of Normal is six-foot drop-offs, big gear mashing up all hills,
air whenever possible, multiple muddy stream crossings, an absence of bike
cleaning and zero workshop time, then he is going to suffer component failures
no matter _who_ makes the bits.

The chains are crap, though. See many earlier posts for pros/cons of SunTour
stuff (did anyone compile those "SunTour kicks ass" posts, BTW?)

main()
{
	if (offence_flag==1)
	{
	  int i=0;
	    while (i<100)
	      {
		cout << ":-) ";
  		i++;
	      }
	}  
};

Mikey D 
--




"Ride and find where all the freedom has gone..."

Michael J. Davis          |   M.J.Davis@ac.uk.ex.cen
Dept of Computer Science  |   M.J.Davis@cen.ex.uk.ac
University of Exeter      |
UK                        |   #include<disclaimer.std>




   








--
From: davef@gandalf.rutgers.edu (Dave Fischer)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: chain pins
Keywords: Shimano Must Die
Date: 18 Nov 92 21:58:18 GMT
Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J.



I had a broken chain the other day, and needed a new link and a pin.
The guy at the bike shop (a great place, I don't think he would try to
rip me off) told me that with the new shimano chains, you can't
replace pins, but rather have to put in a new pin whenever you take
one out.  The new pin is 2X as long, and you put it in and then snap
off the end of it with a pliers.  And they cost $1 apiece!
This has something to do with the hyperglide system, but I'm not sure
exactly what.
In any case, I guess I'll be cleaning my chain with it ON the bike
from now on.
Anybody know about this?
-- 
Dave Fischer    davef@gandalf.rutgers.edu
"Growth for the sake of growth is the ideology of the cancer cell"
                                               - Edward Abbey
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 18:24:05 GMT
Subject: Re: Road rims for tough roads...
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Rat Sorbet writes:

> I have been riding on a set of Mavic MA40 rims, and I have been
> riding on the local bike paths which arent in such good repair, and
> I quickly gained a nice flat spot on the rim.  Could someone
> reccomend a more durable touring rim?

There is no rim that can survive grounding to any significant amount.
You might want to know that the rim section you are using is also
successfully used for MTB's on some of the roughest conditions.  The
difference is that you are using either too small a tire, insufficient
inflation pressure, or both.  A bit of care on where you place your
wheel also helps.  On the other hand I use those rims with Avocet ROAD
tires on all sorts of rocky roads at a brisk clip without rim damage.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
From: sgccses@citec.oz.au (Stephen Spence)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: I want to buy an indoor trainer - but which one ?
Date: 19 Nov 92 23:21:04 GMT
Organization: CITEC

I have sold my old bike and now have the cash for a new indoor trainer.
There are so many brands and types.  I NEED HELP !!!!!

Any body out there have one ?  What do you think etc

thx

-- 
Stephen Spence                |
CITEC                         |
Australia                     | Because I don't Care
612 07 227 6969               |
sgccses@citecuc.citec.oz.au   |
From: t4d192@rick.cs.ubc.ca (Bruce Paul Dow)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Human Powered Vehicles
Date: 17 Nov 1992 23:00:39 -0800
Organization: Computer Science, University of B.C., Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: gambier.rick.cs.ubc.ca
Summary: Mailing list?
Keywords: human power, hpv

I understand that there is a mailng list for those interested in human powered 
vehicles. I would be very grateful if someone would email me on how to 
subscribe to this list.

Thank you in advance

Bruce




Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech,rec.sport.triathlon,rec.bicycles.marketplace
From: jbutt@kean.ucs.mun.ca
Subject: Re: Oakly shades
Organization: Memorial University. St.John's Nfld, Canada
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:57:46 GMT


In article <03NOV92.13008151.0076@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>, E5EM <E5EM@UNB.CA> writes:
>  Has anyone out there tried a pair of the new Oakly Sub Zero shades?
> I'm thinking of buying a pair and would appreciate any comments.
> Also, are they only available in black iridium?
>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Spoke lub defies laws of physics
From: <JONQC@CUNYVM.BITNET>
Date: Tuesday, 17 Nov 1992 19:01:24 EST
Organization: City University of New York/ University Computer Center

> John Leong writes:
>
>> Around the mid 80's, DT spoke packaging suddenly began specifying
>> not to use petroleum based products on their spoke threads and
>> that's why I switched.
>
> From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
> I am curious how this was phrased.  I am sure that DT didn't say that
> oil would be ineffective or, for that matter, detrimental but I can
> imagine why they may have given such advice.  DT is deverifying into

I rummaged through my piles of bike parts but could not find any of
the old DT spoke packs that had that advisory message.  I guess I used
them all.  However, I definitely remember that it was back in the mid
80's, right after DT stopped selling their spokes in boxes of 100 and
switched to blister packs of 37.  As I recall, there was a short one
sentence message on the package that specifically said not to use
"petroleum based products" on the spoke threads; no reason, nothing
else.  At the time, I thought this was odd because their spokes would
always come covered with a light coating of oil and fine grit
(probably from the manufacturing process).  I used to spend a lot of
time cleaning off the spokes before lacing.

Nowadays, DT spokes come already cleaned, in packs of 20.  I don't
know if they still carry the same recommendation or not because the
last batch that I got from Performance seemed to be hand bagged
without an official label - only the size was written on the plastic
bag, in Magic Marker.

It beats me why DT made that recommendation but I just figured that
since they made the spokes, they must know what they're talking about.
Does anybody else remember seeing this message on their DT spoke
packs?

John Leong
JON@QCVAXA.BITNET
JONQC@CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: rkd@pt.com (Ray Downes)
Subject: Re: Cannondale Delta V question
Organization: Performance Technologies, Incorporated
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1992 13:37:43 GMT

>In rec.bicycles.tech, vvkmj@sven.lerc.nasa.gov (Keith Jackson) writes:
>>The guys at the shop don't know what to do with the
>>little pulley wheel just above where the brakes will go.

mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh) answers:
>Take it off and use a regular cable cable stop in the back.  The front
>may be a little trickier.  If you do want to set it up with the "Force
>40" braking, you'll need a piece from Cannondale that clamps the end
>of the wire from one cantilever (over the pulley) to the end of the
>housing that goes toward the other cantilever...forget that, you'll
>have to find one of these to see how its done.

I think Cannondale no longer uses the pulley for '93, opting for a
little swinging lever of some sort (to which the cable attaches, as
opposed to the old "mid-air" stop-block). I seem to remember Suntour
has something similar as well. 

Me, I want to ditch the pulleys (as said, easy on the back), perhaps by
using one of the IRC "widget" dealies (kinda expensive) ... I need
something that will clear (at the very biggest) a 2.2 tire AND
fenders (yes, suspended front fender).
-- 
Ray Downes, Performance Technologies Incorporated		rkd@pt.com
315 Science Parkway, Rochester, New York 14620		  
Voice - (716) 256-0200, FAX (716) 256-0791
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: blake@wk60.nas.nasa.gov (Matthew W. Blake)
Subject: better cantelever braking
Organization: NAS, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, California
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 20:30:07 GMT

I just purchased an Ibis Uncle Fester tandem and spent the weekend flying
down the road, we love it.

One problem:  poor braking.  It has standard Shimano Deore DX cantelever
brakes that I believe are properly adjusted.  They feel mushy and due to the
weight/inertia (I assume) they do not stop us very quickly.  What is the best 
way to get much shorter distance braking?  I'm not worried about heat 
dissipation issues, I'm talking about emergency fast stopping.

Matt
blake@nas.nasa.gov
From: kwh@cogsci.ed.ac.uk (Kevin Humphreys)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Out of Control Front wheel
Date: 17 Nov 92 13:26:13 GMT
Organization: Centre for Cognitive Science, University of Edinburgh
In-reply-to: oscar@crackle.Berkeley.EDU's message of 13 Nov 92 21:57:48 GMT

(this email address doesn't work btw)
oscar@crackle.Berkeley.EDU (Oscar DeMartino) writes:

> I have a touring bike that is about 10 years old.  I have never
> been able to ride it with no hands.  I remove my hands from the
> bar and the front wheel starts to wobble.  The faster I am going
> it takes to get out of control but never more than 30-40 yards,
> 3-4 seconds.

Identical problem to my tourer (which actually is also quite an old
frame).  It drastically improved recently when I fitted a new headset.
Apparently the fork crown race in the old one wasn't a very good fit,
and the headset could not be adjusted properly to get rid of all play.
It still occurs a bit at certain speeds with the new one, but
accelerating by one or two mph stops it.  However, with the bike fully
loaded now, front panniers and all, it doesn't occur at all, so I
guess some of the problem is due to the frame being designed to handle
well as a loaded tourer.  It took me a long time to discover that the
headset was a main cause though - I'd been through the front hubs, had
the forks checked for straightness, had the frame checked for
tracking, and thoroughly annoyed everyone I ride with by complaining
about it...

Good luck

Kevin Humphreys
Centre for Cognitive Science
University of Edinburgh
From: jbrandt@hplred.HPL.HP.COM (Jobst Brandt)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 17:38:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Colnago double down tube bike.
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Laboratories, Palo Alto, CA
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech

Terry Thiel writes:

> My brother just bought a new Colnago from a bike shop in Chicago.
> It's one of those with the double down tube.  He got it for $1200
> with Dura-Ace STI and the new SPD clipless pedals (Dura-Ace).

This may be a good price for a good Italian frame but I'm not
convinced that Colnago has always built good frames.  In particular
the dual tube and crimped tube bikes (whose tubes are more or less
square) come to mind.  The double tubes, whether seat tubes or
downtubes have distinct disadvantages over the conventional layout in
that both bending and torsional rigidity are substantially reduced for
the same amount of metal in the tubes.

This design seems to be in the same vein as the curved tubes used for
TT bikes these days.  There is no valid reason for most of these
excursions in design other than to be different.  And since subjective
appreciation overshadows the claimed benefits, it is difficult to
prove or disprove their validity.  Frame flex measurements are avoided
by the bicycle press not to mention strain gauge measurements of peak
stresses that would clearly quantify the differences.

The dual tube design has been around for a long time as in women's
frames (mixte).  These have always been weak against the slightest
impact to the front because these tubes are weaker than single round
tubes in bending.

jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca (Ken Iisaka (the mad pianist))
Subject: Re: CHANGING TO STI??????
Organization: Dept. of Computer Science, University of Ottawa
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 92 00:20:07 GMT

In article <1992Nov23.211728.20331@eng.umd.edu> naru@eng.umd.edu (Naruhisa Takashima) writes:
>
>So looks like, even though you might have 105, you'll still need 
>new cassetes and derailer.

Nope.  Even though the new 105 has a 8 speed cluster, the current 7 speed 
cluster will function adequately.  If you find that the indexing is not quite
as accurate as you'd like it to be, simply replace the cassette spacers with
3.0mm spacers instead of the current 3.1mm spacers.


-- 
Ken Iisaka               \ NEXT RECITAL  |12:00 pm, Thursday, January 7th, 1993
kiisaka@csi.uottawa.ca     \ Produced by |National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa
AI Lab, University of Ottawa \ CBC Stereo|Berg        Sonata, b minor, op. 1
H: +1 613 237 6642 W: 564 8155 \ 103.3 FM|Mussorgsky  Pictures at an Exhibition
From: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Symmetric rear hub
Date: 16 Nov 92 12:13:51 GMT
Reply-To: mackinto@oasys.dt.navy.mil (David Mackintosh)
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.tech
Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD

In rec.bicycles.tech, cs92mjd@cen.ex.ac.uk (M.J.Davis) writes:

>At last! When this thread started I pointed out that you would have to offset
>the rear triangle (and indeed quoted the Manitou as an example) but no-one
>seemed to be listening :-(.

Yes, we were listening, but what about the chain line issue?  With an
asymetric rear end do you then offset the BB also?  Use an extra-long
spindle?  Long chainstays to minimize the chain angles?  Shaft drive?

David Mackintosh
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Adjusting cantilever brakes
From: london@clover.arc.ab.ca (Mike London)
Date: 23 Nov 92 21:58:20 GMT

truesdel@ics.uci.edu (R. Scott Truesdell) writes:

>First, the power of the Shimano 'low profiles' can be maximized by sliding
>the brake pad all the way down towards the boss. This increases the length
>of the primary side of the lever and decreases the length of the secondary
>side of the lever. Unfortunately you don't have complete freedom with this.

It seems to me that the length of the "secondary" side is just the distance
from the boss to the rim, and the other relevant length is that of the
entire lever. Neither is affected by the position of the shoe.

Mike London
london@oil.arc.ab.ca
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: mattf@cac.washington.edu (Matthew Freedman)
Subject: Re: Cannondale Delta V question
Organization: U.W. Information Systems
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 17:27:35 GMT

In article <1992Nov19.015446.27499@leland.Stanford.EDU>, lloyd@leland.Stanford.EDU (William Koenig Lloyd) writes:
> Everyone around here sounds like they don't like the force-40 stuff at all.

I think Force 40 is the greatest thing since fat tires!

Seriously, the first time I rode a Cannondale Delta-V, I was more
blown away by the brakes than by the suspension. Probably because I
had high expectations of the suspension, but I had never even heard of
Force-40. 

There is a slight problem with lack of rim clearance, but it hasn't
really caused any trouble for me. The 93 Force-40 has been redesigned
to give a bit more clearance, and less "mushy" feel. I don't know
whether the new one has the same amount of power.

	-- Matt
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Cannondale MTB's (was Cannondale Crit)
From: doachs@next-1.gac.edu (Dan A Oachs)
Date: 18 Nov 92 15:04:58 -0600
Distribution: usa

In article <1992Nov16.224923.20405@schbbs.mot.com>  writes:
> Does anyone share the same enthusiasm for Cannondale's mountain
> bikes that some have recently expressed for their road bikes here
> in .tech? What about the suspended models? Do they really provide
> a suspended ride?

	About three years ago I bought my first real Mtn. Bike.  It  
was a Cannondale 400.  I loved it so much that I rode it every day  
until it literally fell apart.  I also competed in two bike races in  
which I got third and secont places respectively.  I believe that  
Cannondale is a wonderfull company.  When I accidentally broke my  
front fork they quickly replaced it without any hassle.  Then later  
when I broke the frame they again quickly replaced it.  After riding  
it too much I bought a new 1992 Cannondale  1000.  This bike is so  
good I can't wait to race again!  I have not had any problems with it  
at all.  I also believe that the bike shop I bought it from is also  
wonderful.  Since I'v had such sucess with this bike, my best friend  
bought one as well as my brother and his friend.  I'd like to say  
this to all those who do not like Cannondale, In my mind Cannondale  
is the BEST. 
--
                                        /\
                                    /\/\/\/\/\        
|                =  o            /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\            
|Dan Oachs      =  < -        doachs@next-1.gac.edu                    
|             = ( ) ( )     /\St.Peter Minnesota\/\/\                
						          
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
From: jimw@hfglobe.intel.com (Jim Williams)
Subject: Re: frozen shocks
Organization: Intel Corporation
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 15:37:28 GMT

miolnir@stein.u.washington.edu (Scot Thorstad) writes:

>In article <1992Nov13.153836.9398@norfolk.vak12ed.edu> jpitts@norfolk.vak12ed.edu (Joseph R. Pitts) writes:
>>dai@kevlar.rtp.dg.com  writes:
>>>  While riding around Mt Snow this weekend (actually, the summit is open 
>>>  for skiing, so the mountain itself is closed to biking),
>>>  my Trek DS2 front shock froze up. It was snowy and about 20 degrees.
>>>  When I got back home, I threw hot water on it to free it up, but things aren't
>>>  back to normal. I seem to be leaking oil, ( damaged seals? ), 
>>>  which indicates disassembly and rebuild (under warranty, I hope).
>>>  Is my diagnosis correct?
>>>  And what can be done to prevent it, or fix it in the field? 
>>>  The only thing I can think of is to add shock boots and carry lock de-icer.
>>>  
		<Stuff about Shock oil deleted>

I was talking with a TREK dealer this weekend and he lead me to believe that
the early DS2 had some out of spec seals.  When was the last time you heard 
of this happening on a motorcycle.  Seems as though I have ridden a motorcycle
at this temp before with no troubles.  I would take it  up with TREK.  Don't 
mention the Hot water part.

Jim,