HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: rbennet1@neumann.une.edu.au (Robert Bennetts.)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Big Move coming up
Date: 22 Jan 93 11:38:45 GMT
Followup-To: rec.aquaria


	Hi all...

	OK, in about a month from now, I am going to have to move into college.
	It will be either a 4 or 6 hour drive away from where I currently am, and I was wondering if any of you fishy geniuses (geniii?) have any advice what to do with my aquatic beasties.
	I currently have :

		One reef tank 3ft 40 gallon with wet/dry filtration and protein skimming, live rock and corals, anemones & fish.

		One 7 gallon freshwater community/plant tank dynaflo 1 filtration
		one 5g freshwater loach tank aquaclear mini filtration.

	I was considering either:

		Setting up new 5 or 6ft reef tank at my brothers appartment near where I will be living, and transfering my reef to that, and setting up maybe a 20gallon tall in my flat at college and moving both the freshwaters to that.

	or
		Setting up two tall tanks in college (whatever would fit) and thinning out my stock to fit into these (except that I am very attached to my pets and really wouldn't want to get rid of any of them).

	Another problem may be that I would possibly have to move everything out of college 2, 3, or 4 times a year during semester breaks.

	Has anyone got fish on campus, and can tell me how they manage?

	Also, when moving, should they be bagged with just air from an air pump, or should I try to get a small bottle of oxygen.
	I have asked around about the oxy they use at the local aquarium stores, and have been told that in Australia, I need a medical certificate to hire the medical grade oxygen that the fish stores use, but I can easily hire industrial grade oxygen.  Can anyone tell me what impurities are likely to occur in Industrial grade, will it just have some other atmospheric gasses mixed with it, or might it contain contaminant that could be nasty to my fish, etc.

	Any one who can help me with anything at all would be gratefully appreciated...

	Thanks very much in advance...


          ----------------------------------------------
          |rbennet1@neumann.une.oz.au|   __    The Fish|
          |Ross Bennetts             |  /. \/| In The  |
          |Alstonville,NSW Australia |  \__/\| .sig    |
          ----------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: keo@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Oldenburg)
Subject: Bala Sharks
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:23:42 GMT

Does anybody know anything about Bala Sharks? I just bought 4, but
the guy at the store didn't know much besides that they were fine 
for a community tank, and they aren't listed in the book I have.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Kurt Oldenburg
(The Evil One)
From: luden@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Tilapia: Of any value to aquarists?
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:54:26 GMT
Organization: Lehigh University Computing Center

In article <C1646y.EnB@uceng.uc.edu> jpenix@uceng.uc.edu (John Penix) writes:

>In article <1993Jan20.155856.28143@bnr.ca> dbailey@bnr.ca (Douglas Bailey) writes:
>>In article <25201@galaxy.ucr.edu>, boots@watnxt14.ucr.edu (k steven thomas) writes:
>>|> In article <connolly.727418596@vincent2.iastate.edu> connolly@iastate.edu  
>>|> (Patrick H Connolly) writes:
>>|> > Concensus question:  I have a number of medium-sized tilapia.
>>|> > Are they of any value?  Shouls I even consider talking to a shop
>>|> > about giving them away?  I'm running out of room and I've
>>|> > got 1 male and 4 females (Spawn-o-rama), every week or so.

>What ever you do, do not release these fish into a lake.  They are very
>good survivers and can easily replace native species.

They cannot survive water temperatures under 55 F, if what I've read is
true, and if iastate means iowa state, unless you release them 
near a nuclear reactor cooling water outlet, I don't think they'll last 
through the winter.  

Talapia is a species that is widely cultured for food, even in the U.S.
So, you could put a pool in your basement and feed them until they're 
big enough to eat.  

Dean Nelson den0@lehigh.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Subject: Re: Mantis Blues
Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC
Distribution: na
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 23:21:24 GMT

In article <C1FCE6.2A6@hpchase.rose.hp.com> dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy) writes:
>Secondly, they provide food for the other animals in
>the reef. As opposed to some of the other people on the net I believe in the
>"feed as little as possible" school of thought with regard to fish in a reef.
>Forcing the fish to forage for food among the "small critter" population helps
>reduce the nutrient load. It also provides a check on the small critter
>population (kind of like a real ecosystem ya know :-).

    A pair of mandarins will wipe out most of the small critters you
may have in your tank in no time flat.  I can see the small critter
population blew up when my 2 mandarines died, and crashed days after
I put in a new pair.  I think mandarins prefer small critters in tank
over live brine shrimp since I feed my tank live brine 4 days out of the
week, Formula II the rest of the times, and the small critter population
still crashed.  One other problem w/ not feeding daily (at least in
my tank), pygmie angels pick on my clams and corals.

    I have a pair of clowns in my other tank.  The small critter
population is fairly stable.  I feed that thank 4-5 days out of the week
as oppose to everyday.  The clown will eat small critters when they are
hungry.  Best of both world, clowns never go hungry, I don't feed
everyday.

    Best possible solution:  don't out any fish in your reef tank.

-Anthony
From: John Opsomer <jo14@cornell.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [F] flying fox vs. pl*co
Date: 22 Jan 1993 19:58:58 GMT
Organization: Cornell University
Distribution: world
NNTP-Posting-Host: cu-dialup-0421.cit.cornell.edu
X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7
X-XXDate: Fri, 22 Jan 93 20:02:46 GMT

Now that you've heard both sides of the argument, I bet you're REALLY
confused as to what to get... I just want to add that there ARE kinds of
pl*cos that stay smaller than others (a good book is "A Fishkeeper's
Guide to South American Catfishes"), but they are sometimes hard to tell
apart.  But then again, the same holds true for the 2 (3?) kinds of
flying fox-look-alikes, of which one is "nice" and the other(s) nasty. 
I'm not sure which one is the "nice" one anyway...

If you"pl*co" you mean "algae-eating catfish", here's some suggestions
for you: the twig catfish (Farlowella) remains small (max. size: a
pencil, both in length and volume!), the brittle-nosed catfish (Ancistus)
looks more like a pl*co and remains at less than 8in, and if you really
want small, go for a bunch of Otocinclus catfish, who eat algae and never
grow over 2in.

One last thought: if you were looking for a fish to take over the
tank-cleaning duty for you, none of those will do it for you!  In fact,
since they eat a "fiber-rich" (!) diet, the produce a large amount of
waste (relative to their size), so that you still need to do frequent
water changes and yes, ...scrape off excess algae :-(  If, however, you
want to keep one of these fish for its own sake, then by all means, go
ahead!  The real trick to avoid (excessive) algae is low fish load and
healthy plants (which another story in its own right).
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: A20076@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Dan Whitaker)
Subject: Re: What kind of tank sealer?
Organization: Motorola
Date: 26 Jan 1993 13:25:20 MST

------------------------- Original Article -------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: Dmerrill@bnr.ca (Dana Merrill)
Subject: Re: What kind of tank sealer?
Followup-To: rec.aquaria
Organization: BNR
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 20:18:38 GMT

In article <hellmann.727977425@sycamore.cs.scarolina.edu>,
hellmann@cs.scarolina.edu (Doug Hellmann) wrote:
>
> scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com (Scott Colbath) writes:
>
> >Hi all,
>
> >	I am getting ready to seal the office tank and I was wondering if
> >anyone out there has suggestions on what kind of silicone to use on it. Are
> >there any brands specifically for aquariums?
>
> Scott,
>
> The cheapest way to do it would be to go to the Wal-mart or K-mart and
> pick up a monster tube of GE silicone.  It says that it is safe for
> aquariums, and best of all, the monster tube only costs about $2.50
> compared to a little tube of special aquarium sealant for 4 or 5.  The
> only thing is that you need a caulk gun, but you can probably buy one
> for about $2 if you don't know someone who has one.
>
> -Samantha

That's right Samantha, one word of caution though.  Try to make sure that
it specifically says something about aquarium use. Some sealer is intended
for uses such as bathtup calk and contains fungicides!

dam

==================================================================

Dana Merrill                                Bell Northern Research
DMerrill@BNR.CA                         Research Triangle Park, NC
==================================================================

If you can't find any at department/home supply stores that are
identified as safe for aquariums, most neighborhood fish stores
carry it, albeit it is more expensive.  Not much of a consideration
if you only need a small amount.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: patti@hosehead.intel.com (Patti Beadles)
Subject: Re: [M] Salt mixes
Originator: patti@hosehead
Organization: Intel Corporation, Hillsboro, OR
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1993 21:46:42 GMT

I've had absolutely no problems with Instant Ocean for as long as I've
used it.  Since I'm draining and refilling the Monster RSN, I considered
switching to a different brand, but the more I thought about it, I
couldn't think of any reason to do so.

I had bad luck once with a batch of Reef Crystals precipitating
something nasty-looking.  I gave away the rest of the package, and
haven't used it since.  I've heard good things about Tropic Marin.
I've also heard a rumor that the CoraLife salt has a problem with
long-term stability, but I have no first-hand experience.

sylvia@hplvec.LVLD.HP.COM (Sylvia Budak) writes:
>I could do my massive water change with this new salt without the aquarium
>having that milky appearance.  There was just a hint of this with the Coral 
>Life salt, and it vanished within an hour.

Hmm ... milky appearance?  How long are you letting the water stand
before using it?  Except in rare emergencies, I always let my water
age overnight at a minimum, and usually more.  From everything I've
read and heard, freshly mixed saltwater should never be put into an
aquarium.
-- 
Patti Beadles  503/696-4358 | I don't speak for Intel, nor vice-versa.
   patti@hosehead.intel.com |
   75555.767@compuserve.com | If it wasn't for the last minute,
or just yell, "Hey, Patti!" |             I'd never get anything done!
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: c059rbm@utarlg.uta.edu (ARMANDO VELASQUEZ)
Subject: testing
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    
Keywords: cichlid test
Organization: The University of Texas at Arlington
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:20:00 GMT




    sorry just a little test

Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10416 alt.aquaria:6784
From: MDP106@psuvm.psu.edu
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Red Devil purchases
Date: 26 Jan 93 18:57:53 GMT
Organization: Penn State University

RED DEVILS COME IN A VARIETY OF COLORS DEPENDING ON THE INDIVIDUAL INCLUDING
WHITE,WHITE W/ ORANGE, ORANGE AND EVEN YELLOW.  I OWNED ONE PATICULAR FELLOW
WHO WAS ALL WHITE(ACTUALLY PINKISH) ACCEPT FOR HIS SIDE FINS WHICH WERE
ORANGE.
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: chapman@cs.cornell.edu (Richard Chapman)
Subject: Re: [M] Questions from a novice
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 17:05:20 GMT

putzolu@cs.ucdavis.edu (David Matthew Putzolu) writes:

>In article <74277@cup.portal.com> John R Hoffman, jrh@cup.portal.com
>writes:

>> - One of the yellow-tailed blues seems very aggressive.  Is there
>>   anything I can do about this?  Should I get rid of him?

>Damsel is a synonym for aggressive, did you know that?
>There is a fair chance that if you get rid of him, another damsel
>will become the meanest (pecking order will assert itself).
>If you hate aggression, lose the damsels. However, if the tang
>is a fair bit bigger than the damsels, and the clown is well, they
>should be able to hold their own.

In my 38 gal, I have 2 blue damsels and a clown (perhaps percula,
perhaps oscellaris, but with bigger fins in proportion to body size
than any I've seen in books) all about the same size, and the clown is
definitely the alpha fish (the damsels can outswim him, of course,
plus they are more willing to hide in the coral, so I don't worry
about them too much).

>> - The dealer will do free water tests.  Should I really invest in my
>>   own testing kit?

>Will the dealer do this for you forever? Is it convenient? If so, save
>the $! There is no inherent benefit to doing them yourself, unless you
>require very accurate tests (like LaMotte) for a reef or something.

So, how good are LaMotte test kits? I have tried a few cheaper kits,
and am generally unhappy with the accuracy -- I find that the
color in my vial doesn't look like any of the colors on the charts
(Marine master, Kordon, SeaTest, Aquatest). 
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10303 alt.aquaria:6700
From: laurence@cco.caltech.edu (Dustin Lee Laurence)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fish in the Workplace
Date: 21 Jan 93 05:22:49 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu

ayresr@gtewd.mtv.gsc.gte.com (Rich Ayres) writes:

>...So, what, in general, is the credibility rate of fish
>stores?

Remember when Hitler promised Neville Chamberlain "peace in our time?"

(Speaking from the marine side of the hobby)

-- 
Dustin Laurence       "As sensitive and broad-minded humans, we must never
                       allow ourselves to be in any way judgmental of the
laurence@alice         religious practices of other people, even when these
caltech.edu           people clearly are raving space loons." -- Dave Barry
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy)
Subject: Re: [M] Salt mixes
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 18:41:21 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.3 PL7]

Steven Debol (Nelson) (sdebol@data.med.umn.edu) wrote:
: In article <C1HqG7.5v8@hpchase.rose.hp.com> dbs@hprnd.rose.hp.com (Dave Sheehy) writes:
: >I have similar experiences to Sylvia's. I can mix some Instant Ocean in a
: >5 gallon bucket, throw in a power head, leave it for several days and
: >there will still be undissolved salts in the bucket. Reef Crystals on the
: >other hand dissolves instantly. 
: >
: From what I can remember (I've never tried this "experiment" directly),
: the only times I've ever had trouble getting the salt into solution is
: when I didn't have at least 5g of water.  Even if it was just slightly
: lower than the 5g mark.            

Good point. I often make a concentrated solution and dilute it the final
specific gravity for adding it to the tank. Instant Ocean doesn't lend itself
well to this sort of short cut but Reef Crystals does. I have made up normal
density batches of salt water and I honestly don't remember if there was
undissolved salt left over.

: Of course, this is probably just a coincidence but it can't hurt
: to check if you've got enough water...

I think you may have hit the nail on the head.

: Steve Debol                       "The fear is all in your head,

Dave Sheehy

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: keo@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Kurt Oldenburg)
Subject: Bala Sharks
Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston Illinois.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 18:17:02 GMT

Does anybody know anything about Bala Sharks? I just picked up 4,
but the guy at the store didn't know much besides they were fine for
a community tank and the book I have only lists Red-Tailed Sharks.

Any information would be appreciated.

Kurt Oldenburg
(The Evil One)

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: june@Cadence.COM (June Petersen)
Subject: re:  Aquaclear 300 problem
Organization: Cadence Design Systems, Inc.
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 01:07:03 GMT

This is in reply to the guy who wanted to know how I got a
sponge sucked up into my Aquaclear filter (I mistakenly
deleted the original post).  I misunderstood the original
post and assumed that the poster did what *I* did, which
was to cut off a bit of sponge and stick it in the
*tube* that sucks water into the filter.  I didn't even
think of slipping a sponge on the *outside* of the tube.
I posted to warn folks that if you put a sponge inside. 
the tube, it's important to sew or somehow affix it into
place.  Sorry for the confusion...

TTFN,
June
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: johnh@tigger.rl.af.mil (John Hawthorne)
Subject: Re: cichlids
Organization: Rome Laboratory, Network Design Facility
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 15:47:02 GMT

>In article <1993Jan17.043422.23004@bnr.ca> Justin Wintour, justin@bnr.ca
>writes:
...
>>One last query - my unside down cat fish has taken to lying next to the 
>>intake tube on my mini aqua clear. I thought it was being sucked in, but 
>>after turning off the filter, he struggled to remain there. My question 
>>is if these fish come from naturally turbulant water, or is he just a 
>>little weird! (She/he is the only one of her/his kind in the tank, if 
>>that could affect behaviour. It is a mystery to me!)

I would say that this is normal behaviour for an upside down cat.
Mine is about 10 years old and has always liked to hang out in one
spot next to an object of some sort, often a filter tube.  I'll bet
that if you give yours a nicer place to hide, such as under a rock,
you will hardly ever see it.

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: "mike primorac" <mike.primorac@canrem.com>
Subject: aquarium services offered
Reply-To: "mike primorac" <mike.primorac@canrem.com>
Organization: Canada Remote Systems
Distribution: rec
Date: 25 Jan 93 22:03:29 EST

        Hi, I'm posting this message for a friend of mine
 who has lots of experience regarding fresh and saltwater
 aquariums.

        If you've been having trouble with your aquarium
 or would like a professional to set one up for you, then
 you're in luck because Craig at Eco-Life Aquariums is the
 man to call.  Also, if you would like your aquarium cleaned
 and maintained on a regular basis he can make pre-arranged
 house calls.  The rates for these and many other services
 are quite affordable and Craig takes personal pride in
 providing a pleasant service with a smile.  Please call
 (416)-793-5963 after 8:00 p.m on weeknights and ask for
 Craig LeMasurier.

        From personal experience I can tell you that he
 made a considerable difference in the way that my reef
 looks.  Since I have subscribed to his service I find
 that the corals are doing much better than before and
 my mushrooms have rapidly divided.  It was money well
 spent, and the price was highly affordable too.

 Mike Primorac
--
Canada Remote Systems  - Toronto, Ontario
World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044
From: ipkh@cs.mcgill.ca (Kwok Hung IP)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Want recipe for beef heart (*Please*)
Date: 22 Jan 93 03:54:48 GMT
Distribution: na
Organization: SOCS - Mcgill University, Montreal, Canada

I am looking for a good beef heart recipe so that I can process my own
at home. Anyone?

Thanks in advance.

=============================================================================
Jack Kwok Hung Ip         | McGill University 
ipkh@binkley.cs.mcgill.ca | Montreal, Quebec, Canada 
=============================================================================
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: RFEWSTER@SUVM.SYR.EDU
Subject: Wanted: Info on leaf fish
Organization: Syracuse University
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 93 16:31:52 EST

I have recently gotten some leaf fish.  I have forgotten the scientific name,
but if I saw it, I would know it.  the Genus begins w/P and the species is
scho..something.  Does anyone have any information on these fish, and/or
experience in keeping them?
                                              Bob
Xref: sparky rec.aquaria:10395 alt.aquaria:6768
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria
Subject: Re: SURVEY RESULTS hot off the presses
Date: 26 Jan 93 04:09:48 GMT
Reply-To: oleg@veritas.com (Oleg Kiselev)
Organization: Palo Alto Killifish Loft

fred@mks.com (Fred Kratky) writes:
>Unfortunately, our population base is a little smaller than San >Francisco.

The Los Angeles population base is much greater than that of the SF Bay
Area (SF itself is a relatively small city).  However, the level of
enthusiasm of the So. Cal. hobbysists is much lower and there is no
major general purpose aquarist society.  There is a large and active
herp group, there is a small but active killie group, there is a
relatively well-establisehd ACA affiliate, but no general aquarium
society whic caters to a wide spectrum of interests.

I have no idea why this area was blessed with such a strong interest
and support of the hobby.
-- 
Don't blame me, I voted Libertarian.

Oleg Kiselev                                             oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software                           ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
From: wmack@en.ecn.purdue.edu (William J Mack)
Subject: Red light
Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 93 20:55:33 GMT

The new Aquarium Fish magizine has an article about tanks at night and says
to observe nocturnal fish behavior, red light can be used without distracting
the fish.  Would I need a special red bulb in order to try this, maybe like
the kind used in film development?  Could white light be filtered with
something as simple as a red transpancy to get the necessary spectrum?
--Something in my gut tells me this wouldnt be to effective.  How could I go
about getting ahold of a "red" bulb if this is what I need?  Are they  
expensive?  Thanks for any help.


-- 
Bill Mack                        "If you expect me to be an expert on the
School of Electrical Engineering  fundamentals while I'm asking a fundamental
Purdue University                 question....then fine, I'll pretend to be one"
From: ayresr@gtewd.mtv.gsc.gte.com (Rich Ayres)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: More on cichlids [F, duh]
Date: 21 Jan 93 16:35:37 -0800
Organization: GTE Govt. Systems, Electronics Def. Div.

Again, a message I tried to post earlier about Blue Rams...

Has there been any difinitive answer as to the classification of said fish?
I had once seen them listed as Microgeophagus Ramirez (hence Ram?), then
later as Apistogramma Ramirez, or something like that.  What is now 
accepted, and is this the same as a 'butterfly cichlid'?

How about my Bolivian Rams?  Is Apistogramma Altispinosa correct?  (they're
looking out of the corner of the tank at me, as if they are too, pondering
the question).

Ah, one more, before I shut up, I have a pair of Cichlisoma Spirilum (sp?),
or I think they've been called Jade Eye Cichlids, at home.  I think that
they are no longer on speaking/jaw-locking terms.  Does anyone (in SFO) 
have a female or two to peak Brutis' (that's his name) interest in a
new mate?   Alternatively, tips on getting 'spring in the air' would be
appreciated.  

Thanks,
Rich


-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|	Richard R. Ayres
|	ayres@mars.mtv.gsc.gte.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria,alt.aquaria,sci.aquaria