HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Pete Paraska)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: How to trouble-shoot a Heat Pump???????????
Summary: Electrical problems
Date: 10 Sep 92 18:45:25 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: David Taylor Model Basin

I have an 8 year old Trane/GE heat pump which has the following electrical 
problems:

Friday:  Returned home to find the outside compressor unit and blower motor 
runningeven though the thermostat was not calling for the system to be 
running. (Also, the inside circulation blower was not running).  Inspection 
found that one set of contacts of the contactor (which switches the 
compressor and outside blower motor on/off) were fused together, causing the 
other set of contacts to be held together, since the "arm" of the contactor 
was now held "Down" by the fused contacts.  This explains these units 
running when the thermostat wasn't calling for it.  

Saturday:  Replaced Contactor.  Also, when I was inspecting the defrost 
relay next to the contactor, I broke the conection for the relay coil and 
had to repair it.  I'm not sure my repair was too good, but it work for a 
while.  The heat pump was working fine.

Monday:  I heard an explosion in the heat pumps vicinity from inside the 
house.  When I inspected the outside unit, I found that, apparently, my 
repair of the defrost relay had failed and alot of arcing took place here, 
making everything black.  I inspected the contactor and found that once 
again the contacts were fused.  

I'm not sure whether the failure of the defrost relay caused the contactor 
to fuse or whether the actual cause to the contactor failures is due to 
something wrong with the compressor, staring capacitors, blower motors, or a 
combination of the above.  

Does any one have advice on how to trouble shoot this?  Can/should I test 
the compressor current draw to see if it is in spec?

Pete
|////////////////////////////////////////////////|
| Pete Paraska       (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil) |
| David Taylor Model Basin, CARDEROCKDIV         |
|\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\|
From: mtw8527@bcstec.ca.boeing.com (Mike Wallach)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Exterior House Trim Painting
Summary: Exterior House Painting - Response
Date: 8 Sep 92 16:27:29 GMT
Organization: Boeing Computer Services, Seattle

In article <24511@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, odell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bernard O'Dell) writes:
> I can't thank you enough Stavros for your outstanding and
> thorough response to my request for info as to how to paint the exterior
> of an older house.  Obviously, you spent a lot of time in
> researching all this information.

Would you be so kind as to forward me a copy or repost the reply or you
received as I am planning to repaint the exterior of my house and the more
info I get on the subject the better. Thanks.

					Mike Wallach
					mtw8527@eeidf002.ca.boeing.com

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: jfw@jfwhome.FUNHOUSE.COM (John F. Woods)
Subject: Re: Beware when prewiring for telephone
Organization: Misanthropes-R-Us
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 15:10:27 GMT

In <LLZuqB1w161w@cdthq.UUCP> gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston) writes:
>Well.... It's not a matter or whether or not 10BaseT meets the Class B
>spec, it's whether or not the specific components you get pass,

Well, it's sort of both; the transmission line can (potentially) radiate
even if the actual computing equipment is inside well-grounded Faraday cages
(and vice versa).  Good coax cable won't radiate; I believe the stuff usually
sold as networking coax is well-shielded, but some coax sold for TV and CB
work isn't as well shielded (only 70% braid coverage in some cases).  Proper
open-wire balanced transmission line also won't radiate, but phone cable isn't
designed as an RF transmission line; I don't know whether or not 10BaseT-quality
phone line meets Class B specs.  And, of course, it's also worth remembering
that a lot of "Class B" home computers haven't actually been tested, or if
they have, were tested in unrealistic conditions (no add in cards, heavily
shielded cables to keyboard and monitor, etc); it's not infrequent that
adding a "Class B" add-in card to a "Class B" home computer results in a piece
of equipment that shows up on radars in other countries :-).

Of course, FDDI cable doesn't radiate much ;-).

>and even using Class B approved equipment can result in emissions that
>exceed the limits for your situation.

And in addition to what I said above about "Class B" certification being
essentially fake in many cases, this it true, too:  Class B equipment still
radiates RF at a certain level, which *may* interfere with other equipment,
and as a quick check of the FCC sticker on any Class B equipment will verify,
if interference happens, it's your fault and your obligation to stop it.
From: gary@cdthq.UUCP (Gary Heston)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 92 19:34:32 CDT
Organization: Garys' Home for Obsolete Computers

joffe%rtsmv1.decnet@edwards-vax.af.mil writes:

> 
> 	We are having a problem with little brown bugs that invade rice,
> flower, cereal, and any kind of grain products.  Does anyone have experience
> with these?
> 
> 	Is there an organic method of getting rid of these?  If not, what would
> be the best kind of pesticide to use?

After bringing home the groceries, put *all* grain products in the
freezer for two days, then store in heavy-duty plastic or glass 
containers (I used to recommend plastic bags, but some other folks
in rec.food.cooking report that the bugs can chew through them).
Freezing will kill the larvae and eggs, to prevent reinfestation.

To solve the infestation, either freeze or replace all your existing
stock of grain products, then *thoroughly* clean out your cabinets
with disinfectant (including vacuuming out all the cracks and crevices
to get spills). If you have any "strings" of garlic or onions hanging
around, they're probably infested, too. It'll probably be necessary
to pitch them.

Yes, getting rid of these bugs is a pain, but it can be done.

Gary Heston, at home....
gary@cdthq.uucp
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: pngai@adobe.com (Phil Ngai)
Subject: Re: Home security tips from a burglar
Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1992 23:50:19 GMT

In article 14579@gazette.bcm.tmc.edu, so690561@mbcr.bcm.tmc.edu (Susan Elizabeth Olson) writes:
>I'm
>interested to see if anyone else out there comes up with other home
>security tips that don't involve the purchase of a weapon.

Most of the people I know who own weapons feel this way:

Weapons are to home security as root canel is to dental hygiene:
you may survive, but you won't feel like it was that much
better than the alternative.

-- 
My opinions are my own.
Vote for Clinton: protect the right to keep and bear sporting goods.

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Thermostat question
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 92 04:04:28 GMT

In article <1992Sep9.233414.13133@nas.nasa.gov> blake@wk60.nas.nasa.gov (Matthew W. Blake) writes:

>..........................  My Thermostat is acting up (not going on 
>sometimes, etc) and I have no instructions or info on it.  
>
>1) What features would you suggest?
>   (timer to come on before getting up, etc)

Whatever you get, make sure that your existing heating system can interface
with it. I bought a new thermostat which has a switch to set the fan on
aout/constant. Turned out that my system doesn't have the solenoid type of
fan switch required. Timers seem to be universally OK, though.

>2) Suggested Brands (or to avoid)?

I have had both Honeywell and Robertshaw-Fulton and would recommend either.
The former seems to be a little more user-friendly, but it's about double
the price. I currently have a Robertshaw.

>3) Are they easy to install?

Piece of cake. Mine took about two hours, including running all new wiring
(which you may not have to do). That doesn't count the time I wasted trying
to get the fan remote switch to work, though.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    |
George Patterson -  | No city is large enough to support one lawyer
                    | No town is too small to support two.
                    |                        Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,misc.consumers
From: poole@admin.usask.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Security Alarms
Date: 9 Sep 92 21:13:08 GMT
Reply-To: poole@admin.usask.ca ()
Organization: University of Saskatchewan

|>In article <20131@drutx.ATT.COM>, bdm@druwa.ATT.COM (Brian Millham) writes:
|>
|>>in article <1992Sep4.190522.22493@access.digex.com>, sparkle@access.digex.com (Pat) says:
|>
|>> I was told by the Rollins people that, if my telephone line were cut,
|>> the central office in Atlanta would take immediate steps to notify
|>> the local police.
|>
|>> Was I misinformed, or is my system one step ahead of the competition?
|>
|>I think that you were misinformed, since the CO can't tell the difference
|>between a cut phone line, and a phone that is just unplugged from the
|>wall jack.  Imagine, if you unplug your phone because you don't want it
|>to ring, the cops show up on your door step.
|>
|>The above is true for standard residential lines.

This may not always be the case. I worked for company once that built such
an alarm system. The telephone company was the alarm "carrier" and in turn
each alarm company could use the services provided by the phone company.

The phone company would attach devices to your STANDARD RESIDENTIAL phone
line at the switching substation and in your home. These devices could
monitor your home 24 hours a day and did not care if you were talking on
the phone or not. (No, you did not hear funny noises on the phone while you
we talking.) I do not think that they worked well with a phone line that
used a modem but back then (7 years ago) there wasn't that many home
computers with modems. These devices could monitor up to 13 alarm circuits
in your home and could detect a cut phone line in about 30 seconds. The
phone company would route the alarm information to the appropriate
alarm company.

I do remember that the cost for this type of monitored alarm was very
competitive with other monitored services at the time. Alarm reporting
to the alarm agencies was quick, secure and reliable. This system was
installed in 1 province and 2 states at the time. 

BTW. There was also some ideas about using the same devices to read your
utility meters but I don't know what happened with that.

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Chris Poole
Computing Services                         CA*Net:  Poole@ADMIN.USask.CA
56 Physics Building                        Phone:   (306) 966-4807
University of Saskatchewan                 FAX:     (306) 966-4938
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada, S7N 0W0
From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
Subject: Re: Underground electrical wiring
Date: 15 Sep 92 01:52:31 GMT
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada

In article <1992Sep14.104047.127@cpvax.lonestar.org> b_lmcgilve@cpvax.lonestar.org writes:
>I am in the planning stages for building a garage and stable.  I want to
>run electricity and water underground to both.  What type of conduit do
>you suggest to run the electric lines in and should I lay it in the same
>trench as the water or build separate parallel trenches?  I will have a
>licensed electrician do the actual hookup into the meter and install 
>breaker boxes for me.  I just want to make sure that I understand what
>he is suggesting.  Thanks in advance.

Codes vary a *lot* on this from jurisdiction to jurisdiction.

Ours, for example, mandate minimum separations of about a metre between
power and telephone wires when wired at same level, or a foot when
different level.  I don't think they permit water lines anywhere near.

You don't necessarily *have* to put the wire in conduit, but your codes may
permit you to place the wiring somewhat shallower (here 18" instead of 26")
if you put it in PVC conduit (there's even a type of PVC water pipe that's
approved for use as conduit for burial).  Or, in some locales, simply
placing a piece of treated lumber over the wire is sufficient to permit
the shallower depth.

I suggest that you consult your inspector, and/or your electrician to
find out what's necessary and what your options are.  Especially on
trench prep - gravel?  How deep? etc.

Furthemore, since this is on a farm, the codes may be stricter than
residential.

I'm presuming that you're going to do the trenching yourself.  Get your
electrician to specify exactly what he wants, double check that with the
inspector, and do that.

Note that most locales are going to want to inspect the power lines before
the trench is filled up.

If you do the trench yourself, having the electrician prepare the buried
line isn't going to cost much.
-- 
Chris Lewis; clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
Psroff 3.0 info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Ferret list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: Whole-House Fan Choice is Not a Breeze
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 92 16:34:41 GMT
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC

In article <pzmn67l.greg@netcom.com>, greg@netcom.com (Greg Bullough) writes:
|> Direct drive fans are cheaper. They have that, and really only that,
|> going for them. Oh, yes, they're a bit easier to install, theoretically.
|>  
|> Belt-drives are quieter. And more expensive.
Interesting that you should say that.  I had the biggest whole-house fan that
one could buy from the Sears catalog (circa 1985 or so).  It was belt drive.
It squeaked a lot at medium to low speeds, no matter what I did.  The 
squeeking had a belt-ish sound to it (reek, reek, reek) as opposed to a bad-
bearing-ish sound (eeeeeeeeeee).

Maybe I just had a lemon.  I have no experience with direct-drive fans.

|> Remember, this piece of electrical equipment is going in your attic.
What's your point here?

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"I opened an STR on myself and I had to reject it."  -- Paul McGrath
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: kenney@milton.u.washington.edu (Michael Kenney)
Subject: Re: Hurricane Andrew's effect on building
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1992 05:49:14 GMT

In article <1992Sep11.222358.20588@Happy-Man.com> Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com writes:
>
>If you want taxes to pay for your damages after a storm,
>you'd better be able to show that the storm was far worse
                                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>than anyone could reasonably predict.  Otherwise, it's
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>just the normal course of business and you should either
>build better or save in advance for repairs.  Continually
>rebuilding inadequate structures is too wasteful to get my
>hard-earned money, thanks.
>-- 
> Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com    Happy Man Corp.  206/463-9399 x102
> 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA  98070-7399  fax x108
> We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor.  NextMail OK
>Info free; sample $20: Send POSTAL addr: Solid-Value@happy-man.com

According to Friday's NY Times, meteorologists examing the destruction
in the Homestead area concluded that wind gusts may have reached
200 mph in places  -  far worse than predicted.  Not many structures
can withstand that kind of wind loading.

I have no trouble with my taxes paying for the cleanup from a storm
such as that because you're talking about a 100 year storm.  I
certainly would'nt let an event with that kind of probability disuade
me from living somewhere.

BTW Andrew was only the beginning, there's a hurricane pounding Hawaii
as I write this.

----
Mike Kenney
UW Applied Physics Lab
mikek@apl.washington.edu
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: cfwpm@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Bill McGown)
Subject: Re: sand v. concrete patio
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1992 01:10:37 GMT
Organization: Eastern Illinois University

Kinda looking at this question from a slightly different viewpoint my
wife and I lived for some years in a house in southern Mississippi that
was about 90 years old. When we began to clean up the front yard we 
discovered a brick patio burried about 4" below the surface! Yep, it
was totally grown over with a nice grass lawn covering it. We removed the
grass and dirt and washed the patio off an it became our "new patio."

Now more to the point, it was almost totally level. It was on a 3" sand
base with maybe a 1/8-1/4" sand gap between each brick. The only place
we could see any evidence of settling was at the entrance way and the 
center. Both were easily fixed by removing the bricks and adding more
sand. I just don't think that you can find a better patio construction
technique that a good sand base with brick.




-- 
**************************************************************
W. P. (Bill) McGown                     Eastern Ill. Univ
cfwpm@ux1.cts.eiu.edu                   Psychology Department
                                        Charleston, Il. 61920
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: Sound insulation for ceiling/floor:  ideas?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 92 23:35:41 GMT
Keywords: sound insulation fibreglass

In article <Bu0K8G.8FD@world.std.com> edwards@world.std.com (Jonathan Edwards) writes:
>Several posters have mentioned that conventional fiberglass insulation will
>not do much sound absorbing. Is there an alternative material suitable for
>stuffing between joists and studs that would work better?

Vermiculite is available in this area. One poster a few days ago said
it may be better. You can blow this stuff in; it comes in the form of
asymetrical pellets about 1/4" in diameter and is sold in bags.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | "Under Consideration": We never heard of it.
George Patterson -  | "Under Active Consideration": We're searching the
                    |    files for it.
                    |         Kelvin Throop - The Management Dictionary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Subject: Habitat built homes 'right'
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1992 19:05:41 GMT

Quoted without permission from USA TODAY.  Written by Andrea Stone.

"Hurricane Andrew blew down whole blocks, but 27 homes built by the
non-profit Habitat for Humanity survived almost undamaged.

"In a nutshell, we built them right," says Kevin McPeak, a coordinator
for the volunteer group that builds low-income housing.

Word about Habitat's houses -- which at $35,000 cost about half the
average for a south Florida home -- comes amid charges that shoddy
construction added to the devastation.

Habitat's wood-frame houses lost a few shingles and windows; the center
truss of one was damaged.

They were built in the past three years and conform to hurricane
building codes.

But while codes let builders staple roofs on, Habitat uses nails, which
are stronger.  While builders aren't required to bolt frames to
foundations, Habitat does.

Says McPeak: "When a hurricane leaves (your) building standing, it's
nature saying you built a good structure.  We don't cut corners.""

Draw your own conclusions, folks.  I thought it might provoke an
interesting discussion.

-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
 
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines)
Subject: Re: Vented (i.e. opening) skylights
Followup-To: misc.consumers.house
Keywords: skylight
Organization: University of Virginia
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 19:13:21 GMT

In article <BuBo7n.K6G.2@cs.cmu.edu> goddard+@cs.cmu.edu (Nigel Goddard) writes:
>
>We're thinking of putting two skylights into the east-facing sloping
>...
>glazing.  We're thinking of Velux, and I've heard of Wasco and APC.
>...
>
>Nigel Goddard
>

I recently installed a Velux skylight.  It is extremely well made and
the documentation was excellant.  Many months and no leaks...

--
- Peter Vines : vines@virginia.edu : (804) 924-4644 : University of Virginia
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.uucp (24224-guthrie)
Subject: Re: repair plaster or drywall?
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 92 18:50:54 GMT

In article <1992Sep3.125937.239@v7.vitro.com> lis@at-mail-server.vitro.com writes:

>I recently began renovating my 1880's home .....
>
>My question is should I attempt to repair the plaster (horsehair plaster with
>wood lath) or should I simply drywall over the whole mess. I've never worked
>with plaster before, so any advice regarding its repair is welcome (if not for
>this room then elsewhere...)

Get a book which describes the old plastering techniques. Personally, I
would sheet rock over any damage to the ceiling and attempt to plaster
any damage to the walls. Rocking over the walls will cause you to have
to redo the mouldings. You will find it difficult (at least) to match
the old base trim.

In one restoration I worked on, we handled the problem by sheet rocking
over the walls and ceilings. We then stripped one room of the house of its
moulding and used it to replace sections (outside corners) in the other
rooms which were now too short. We put up modern stuff in that one room.

Incidentally, when you're working on an older house, remove as little of
the lathe as you can. The lathe actually forms a structural part of the
house.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I had been told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life to
                    | become as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot)
Subject: Re: whole house fan safety
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 92 17:01:44 GMT
Distribution: usa
Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com
Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC
Keywords: fan, safety

In article <1992Sep10.180725.3997@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>, psv2b@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Peter S. Vines) writes:
|> Whole house fans with thermostats should be avoided because
|> if there is a fire and the fan turns on due to the excessive heat,
|> the fan will feed the fire with extra air.

My Sears whole-house fan came with what I think was called a 'firestat'.  It
would melt and turn off the fan if things got too hot.  I tried to buy such
a gadget separately some years later and had absolutely no luck.  Does anyone
know where I could get one?

-- 
Topher Eliot             Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development
(919) 248-6371      eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com       {backbone}!mcnc!rti!dg-rtp!eliot
Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG.
misc.consumers.house archivist.  Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com
"I opened an STR on myself and I had to reject it."  -- Paul McGrath
Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house