From: bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw
Subject: Re: 12 Volt Conversion DONE!
Date: 1 Sep 92 07:29:53 CST
Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO

In article <1992Aug31.183900.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu>, pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu writes:
> In article <1992Aug31.073653.4434@bb1t.monsanto.com>, bjgaed@bb1t.monsanto.com writes:
>> Possibly a bus
>> generator would be a better idea for a Ghia?  On a bug, the voltage 
> 
> What's a bus generator?  I thought they were all the same.  Although some idiot

The issue is only the mounting of the voltage regulator.  I think most 
busses had the VR mounted on the generator, as does the Ghia, due to 
the battery being back in the engine compartment.  Thus the difference 
would be two tapped holes for the mounting screws on the generator and 
a "211-..." part number.

> Don't forget the idle cut-out solenoid!!! (If you have one) If you don't put in
> a 12V one, your car won't run (but it certainly won't diesel;-)

The 28 PICT carb didn't have one.

>> On a bus and Ghia you will need a horn relay.  The 12 volt doesn't 
> 
> I didn't see a relay for the horn.  I only have one horn, and it seems to be
> wired directly.  Where would I find this relay?

Had an e-mail on this from a mechanic.  Shouldn't have said "bus" as 
this relay was probably only on Ghias with the dual horns.  It is on 
the upper left side of the spare tire well in the Ghia.

> Did you get the manual choke kit and wiper transformer from JC Whitney?
> I just know this is going to start another JCW thread, but what quality of
> stuff was it?  If not JCW then where did you get it?

I did get these from JCW, but they are available other places.  They 
are probably all the same product.  I looked at the voltage divider at 
a parts store and it's the same item as JCW.  The choke kit works O.K. 
but the installation directions appear to have been translated from 
another language.  I will see how it holds up through the winter.  
Kind of hard to adjust properly, but it appears to be a copy of the 
early VW manual choke mechanism from the 36 hp.

> Oh, I almost forgot, what about the headlight relay?  I looked at 12V version
> of my 6V relay, and they had different numbers of contacts.

I didn't have a headlight *relay*, and the headlight flasher 
(lichthupe) was removed from the car many years ago when it was 
brought into the country from Germany, as it is probably illegal here. 

You will note I had the same problem with my turn signal flasher:  
different contacts.  Check the 6V and 12V units and see if there are 
numbers stamped on the fiber insulation under the contacts.  Usually 
if the contacts have the same numbers the wires just switch, and then 
you can try grounding the extra contact.  A relay is pretty easy to 
understand, compared to a flasher.  There will be a control lead 
coming from the switch, a hot lead, and a lead to the lights; closing 
the switch connects the control lead to the battery and current flows 
through the relay coil to ground, thus closing the contacts and 
connecting the hot lead to the lights.  Alternatively, the hot lead 
may be connected internally to both the contact and the relay coil.  
Then the switch connects the control lead to *ground* causing current 
to flow and closing the contacts.  

 C--o------- From Sw.(Hot)      C--o------ To Switch (Ground)
 C                              C
 C                              C
 C--o------- To Ground          C--o
                                   1
 V--o------- Hot Lead to Batt.  V--o------ Hot Lead to Batt.
----o------- Leads to Lights   ----o------ Leads to Lights

(4 Contacts)                    (3 Contacts)
        


    
 C--o (Case Ground (no terminal)    C--o (Case Ground (no terminal)
 C                                  C
 C                                  C
 C--o------- From Switch (Hot)      C--o
                                       1
 V--o------- Hot Lead to Batt.      V--o------ Hot Lead from Switch
----o------- Leads to Lights       ----o------ Leads to Lights

(3 Contacts)                        (2 Contacts)

(I've never seen the "2 contacts" setup as it wouldn't gain you 
anything over just connecting the battery to the lights via the 
switch, but I suppose it's possible.  Not the sort of thing I would 
expect from German engineers, though.)

You can just experiment with the 12 volt relay before installing.  
Connect one contact to the battery and try grounding each of the 
others and the case (if metal) in turn.  When the relay clicks you 
have located the coil circuit.  With your static timing light you can 
then figure out if the lead from the switch connects to the battery or 
to ground when the switch is closed.  Then you can figure the rest 
out by using the relay to light your timing light.  You probably can't 
hurt the relay if it is out of the circuit and you are using the 
correct voltage.

Hope this helps.


> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
> |pH Fred == pgheit01@ulkyvx.louisville.edu    |         "What we lack         |
> |        == ..!psuvax1!ulkyvx.bitnet!pgheit01 |   in enthusiasm, we make up   |
> |           University of Louisville          |         for in apathy."       |
> |                Louisville, KY               |                               |
> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-- 
--Electric Monk            (Bruce Gaede); 
                            e-mail: bjgaed@ccmail.monsanto.com

"...and then time started seriously to pass."
--Douglas Adams, _Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency_
Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw