HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com (Vikas Sontakke)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Date: 1 Oct 92 20:02:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: engage.1992Oct1.191127.28615
Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation


In article <160@io.trident.datasys.swri.edu>, johns@trident.datasys.swri.edu (Stephen Johns) writes...

>[STUFF DELETED]
>   6.2 vs 7.1 ( OK .9 ).  My personal best, timed using a friend with a
>   stop watch, is 6.8.  Need to go try it again with the new tires!
    ^^^^^^^^^^

That's very unreliable way of measuring 0-60 times.  After testing with a real
G-Analyzer such as Vericom computer on 3 different cars, I came to conclusion
that under heavy accleration, the speedometer has a tendancy to lag.  This is
easily noticeable in my SHO but I got similar results in Talon Turbo and
Honda Prelude.  Try this, acclerate hard from 0-40, as soon as the speedo
hits 40, drop in neutral; chances are the needle will go past 40.  Obviously,
once you are in neutral, you can not accelerate but since the needle goes past
40 and stays there for a while tells you that when the speedo touched 40, you
were actually doing (say) 45.

Vikas Sontakke		Digital Equipment Corporation, Maynard MA.
Internet:		sontakke@helix.enet.dec.com
    uucp:		{decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!helix.enet!sontakke
			sontakke%helix.enet@decwrl.dec.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mpalmer@encore.com (Mike Palmer)
Subject: Re: CAR ALARMS: My Story/FAQ
Organization: Encore Computer Corporation
Distribution: rec
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1992 12:11:04 GMT

holowczk@rwja.umdnj.edu (Richard Holowczak) writes:

>"Standard" features
>-------------------
>One thing to be aware of.  In the sales brochures, the alarms are
>listed with many "standard" features. For the Derringer, there is
>the convenient Dome Light feature, etc. The catch is, just because
>the alarm manufacturer thinks this is "standard", the alarm
>installer might not do it as part of the package price.  So make
>sure you find out about every last detail of the install *BEFORE*
>the installer begins.  I got burned on this for my install.  I was
>quoted a fairly decent price for the install, but when I picked the
>car up, the lights did not flash when arming or activated as
>advertised in the brochure.  The installer said that they only
>install this as an option, not standard.  Oh well, live and learn.

Unless the dealer specifically said "no flashing lights" you should
have got them if the brochure lists them as standard.  What would you
have said if he'd not protected the passenger door, claiming that too
was extra?


Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: FWD vs. RWD, Which is best.
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 92 20:40:36 GMT

In article 13355@texsun.Central.Sun.COM, dbernard@thewho.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) writes:
>How many new RWD automobiles are still offered? There's the huge
>GM line (Buick Roadmonster/Caprice/new Fleetwood).  Is the Crown Vic?
>The trend seems clearly toward FWD, but don't know if that's mostly
>fashion or not.

Let me tell you. Mercedes,BMW,Porsche,Ferrari,Lamborghini,Rolls Royce,Aston-
                 Martin, Jaguar,etc. are among the finest car manufacturers
                 in the world. There are many others. To my knowledge none of
                 these are into FWD. FWD was started because it is cheaper
                 to build and assemble the FWD configuration than RWD.

Current American Rwd models:   Buick Roadmaster
                               Chevrolet Caprice
                               Chevrolet Camaro
                               Chevrolet Corvette
                               Chevrolet/GMC trucks
                               Pontiac Firebird
                               Cadillac Brougham
                               Ford Crown Victoria
                               Ford Thunderbird
                               Ford Mustang
                               Ford Trucks
                               Mercury Cougar
                               Mercury Marquis
                               Dodge Viper
                               Dodge Trucks 

                               Surprising, isn't it? 
Andy.
From: chrisp@regenmeister.Sun.COM (Chris Prael)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: downforce and cornering g's (was which car handles the best?
Date: 2 Oct 1992 17:17:09 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: regenmeister

From article <22524@venera.isi.edu>, by jdeifik@isi.edu (Jeff Deifik):
> A car does not need any downforce to corner or accelerate or brake at over
> 1.0 g. 

Absolutely true.  In 1963, the prototype Cobra accellerated to 100 mph
at an average rate of 1.4g (obviously the peak was somewhat higher).
This car had no downforce devices and may have generated a bit of lift.

It is much more difficult to get >1g cornering forces with no down force
because of body roll and suspension geometry issues.  However, Road and
Track has measured a couple cars that did slightly better than 1g in a
steady state turn.

> For example formula 1 cars corner at 2-4 g (perhaps with downforce).

Bad example.  F1 cars generate a lot of downforce.
 
> The most telling counterexample to the 1 g limit myth is the top fuel drag cars.

Not really.  Ever notice those wings at the back?  They aren't there for
decoration.

The real point of the discussion is that the accelleration that can be
obtained by a car is not a matter of sliding friction (unless the car is
actually sliding).  When the car is not sliding, the rubber actually
cogs into the pavement surface.  This indicates that traction is limited
by how much of the rubber surface actually cogs into the pavement and
the shear strength of the rubber.  

Thus: The real determining factor is how great a sideways (or fore and
aft) load is borne per unit of contact surface. So, big contact patches 
are better than small contact patches.

Chris Prael
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
Subject: Re: corvair
Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 19:49:28 GMT

In article <3360188@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, zampicem@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Mike Zampiceni) writes:
|> You don't need sand bags in a Corvair trunk unless the tires are 
|> improperly inflated. Want to bring out that treacherous oversteer?
|> Then put in more air in the front tires than in the back like you
|> would for a front engined car. I've owned 8 Corvairs over the years,
|> and the best combination is usually 20 psi in front and 30 psi in
|> back. The sandbags are only good for padding in the event of a 
|> crash. Otherwise, they just make the steering unecessarily heavy.

Sound advice!

Everyone needs to keep an eye on their tire pressures.
Lower pressures increase the tire's slip-angle and make
a tire more prone to slide sideways.  Higher pressures
reduce the tire's slip-angle and make it less prone
to slide sideways.  

Based on the rest of the comments on handling I have seen
on this net, too many people don't understand the importance
of setting the right tire pressures.

Mark
From: synth@deepthought.unm.edu (Synth F. Oberheim)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: Timing belts on Honda
Date: 6 Oct 92 16:56:45 GMT
	<SYNTH.92Oct5120004@deepthought.unm.edu>
	<1992Oct6.111834.28956@linus.mitre.org>
Organization: SynthMedia Productions Ltd -- Now Appearing Nightly With DON HO


rll@frieda.mitre.org (Roberto L. Landrau) writes:

Roberto> synth@deepthought.unm.edu (Synth F. Oberheim) writes:
>Your '89 Accord's timing belt should be guaranteed until 90,000 miles --
>have you checked with your dealer to make sure?

Roberto> Have YOU checked with YOUR dealer to make sure?  The powertrain
Roberto> warranty thay our Honda dealer offered in 1989 was only 2 yrs/
Roberto> 24k miles.

The difference here is warranty vs. what the Honda dealer advises you
regarding Manufacturer's Recommended Maintenance.  In the latter I
would still think the dealer and/or Honda can be held liable.  If you
know something to the contrary, please enlighten us.

Roberto> Just because the timing belt passes a visual inspection
Roberto> doesn't mean it is guaranteed to last for a while.  I have
Roberto> heard of timing belts breaking without showing any signs of
Roberto> wear prior to that.

So have I.  But I don't think he would have a case if he couldn't
point to some evidence of premature wear before the recommended
replacement interval ...

Roberto> The conclusion has always been (it is probably in the FAQ)
Roberto> that if there is not enough clearance between the valves and
Roberto> the pistons, serious damage will occur if the belt breaks,

... which is the case on most Hondas ...

Roberto> so you should change the timing belt every 60k miles (whether it
Roberto> needs it or not).  SOme timing belts won't even last that
Roberto> long.  For most Hondas, 60k is safe (that's once or twice in
Roberto> the life of the car, anyway.)

To answer your first question, I did check with my dealer, and it was
they who informed me that Honda redesigned the belts in '88.  The new
belts are supposed to last for 90k, not 60.

Roberto> The first Preludes had serious problems.  A recall was issued.

Your source for this?  From what I heard Honda never issued a recall,
but rather sent out a bulletin in 1987 instructing dealers to advise
owners of all models to change the timing belt at 60,000 miles ...
 
>SPY MAGAZINE'S 1,000 REASONS NOT TO VOTE FOR GEORGE BUSH:
>#550: "I happen to think it was right" -- March 1980, on his support of Roe v.
>Wade.  #551: "My position hasn't changed. I am, uh, pro-pro-uh, pro-life."

Roberto> SPY MAGAZINE'S 1,000 REASONS NOT TO VOTE FOR DAN QUALE:
Roberto> #552: "I never smoked, but I did inhale" :)

I think the actual quote was "Ie nevere smokede, bute Ie dide inhal ..." :-)


===============================================================================
    :: :: :: :: ::     Synth F.    synth@deepthought.unm.edu    U S E N E T   
 :: :: :: :: :: :: ::  Oberheim    synth@yenta.alb.nm.us             in color!
===============================================================================
"A dozen pizzas?  Oh, it's those damn KIDS!"
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Newsgroups: rec.autos,sci.electronics
Subject: Sentry Auto Alarm info needed
From: petrisko@evax2.engr.arizona.edu (William Petrisko)
Date: 27 Sep 92 20:29:43 MST
Reply-To: petrisko@evax2.engr.arizona.edu
Distribution: usa,local
Organization: University of Arizona, College of Engineering and Mines, Tucson

I recently purchased a truck with a "Sentry Martian I" alarm system
instealled (using the term loosely.)  

I would like to get a copy of the pinouts, adjustment, etc...  this
alarm looks like it was installed in about 4 minutes, and i'm sure
a lot of the options aren't even hooked up... 

Any information would be appreciated.

-bill
--
bill petrisko                                  petrisko@evax2.engr.arizona.edu
   aka n7lwo                 ...!uunet!4gen!warlok!gargle!omnisec!thumper!bill
From: sharp@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Darrin Sharp)
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1992 18:10:03 GMT
Subject: Adding extra tire sipes?
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Newsgroups: rec.autos


	I was looking at some new all-terrain tires for my Jeep
	Wrangler. The guy at one of the tire stores told me he
	could add extra siping to the tires I was looking at. This,
	he claimed, would "be better than having studs" in snow and
	ice. He also claimed it has no negative effects on wear or dry
	road handling. All for $10/tire.

	The extra sipes he would add are cut straight, diagonally across
	the tire tread, every 1/2 inch or so. They go down to the the wear
	bars. No rubber is actually removed, it is just sliced with a 
	very sharp instrument.

	Anybody ever had this done done/heard about it? Does it work? Is
	it really not bad for the tire?

	Thanks,
	Darrin Sharp (sharp@fc.hp.com)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: dbr2@cec2.wustl.edu (Dhruva Bollam Reddy)
Subject: Re: Timing belts on Honda
Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 16:30:19 GMT

The owner's manual for my '84 CRX states that the timing belt should be 
changed @ 60K miles.  I procrastinated for over 30,000 miles until last
week.  Nothing happened, I just no longer wanted to take that chance 
(plus I got a coupon in the mail from a local Honda dealer) :-)
		
			Dhruva
Organization: Penn State University
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1992 11:01:18 EDT
From: <WJT101@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Why not a Taurus SHO Wagon??

Hello,
I was wondering why Ford hasn't offered the SHO engine on the Taurus
 Wagon.  Especially now that the Taurus SHO is available with an automatic
 transmission, I would think many "30-something"  wagon buyers would be
 interested in this type of setup.  Is there some engineering reason why the
 SHO powertrain can't be placed in the wagon??


--RICK
From: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: rec._autos_, pal, rec._autos_
Date: 6 Oct 92 15:20:12 GMT
Reply-To: wrat@unisql.UUCP (wharfie)
Organization: UniSQL, Inc., Austin, Texas, USA

In article <1992Oct5.005045.26294@nezsdc.icl.co.nz> derek@nezsdc.icl.co.nz (Derek Tearne) writes:
>The biggest Weenies are the ones who drive cars in the < 7 second bracket 

	The biggest weenies are those blubbering little needledicked
cretins who interrupt every discussion about performance in CARS with
chants of "Motorcycles are faster! Motorcycles are faster! Motorcycles
are faster!"

	Jesus Christ.  Look, you win, OK?  Motorcycles are faster than
cars.  Big fucking deal. Now why don't you go play in traffic?

	And don't forget to wear your helmet.
							W.rat
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: jcyuhn@crchh574.BNR.CA (James Yuhn)
Subject: Re: tips on buying used TAURUS
Keywords: taurus, used
Reply-To: jcyuhn@crchh574.BNR.CA (James Yuhn)
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1992 15:31:36 GMT

In article <1992Sep30.131435.15294@genrad.com>, sully@genrad.com (Mark Sullivan)
writes:
|>
|>in a few months i intend on buying a used 1986,87 TAURUS. does anyone out
there
|>have any suggestions on things to be aware of ??  how many miles does one 
|>expect to get out of motor & trans. ??  noises indicting "early life failures"
??		
|>
|>thanks in advance,	mark sullivan 	sully@genrad.com

  Much as I hate to say so, the '86-'87 Taurus' have had some pretty
  severe problems. The introduction of the Taurus was the first year 
  for the 3.0 liter "Vulcan" engine. In both '86 and '87, many Taurus'
  (and Sables) suffered piston slap problems. The cure - an engine 
  rebuild. Many of these automobiles had the engine rebuilt at about
  30K miles. I don't know how effective the rebuild is as permanently
  curing the problem. Ford has some type of extended warranty coverage
  on the problem - best check with a good dealer or a zone office for
  details.
 
  The best solution is probably to stretch and try to get an '88 model.
  Failing that, listen carefully under the hood for not-good noises,
  make sure the engine has already been rebuilt, check to car's service
  history, etc. The eary Tauri (?) are definately buyer beware items.
 
  Good luck, you might need it,
 
  Jim
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA (Andreas  Tovornik)
Subject: Re: About my clutch?
Reply-To: atovorni@engr.UVic.CA
Organization: University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 92 20:46:11 GMT

In article 300992031848@lafmacconsultant.lafortune.lab.nd.edu, j1moody@darwin.cc.nd.edu (Humpty Dumpty) writes:
>I'm worried about the clutch in my 1983 Nissan Sentra.
>The pedal pushes easily to the floor. It's hard to get it into reverse.
>And now I seem to be having a loss in power. It just doesn't have
>the pick-up it had several months ago.I push on the gas, the engine
>roars like it's supposed to, but the car doesn't move like it is supposed
>to. It's almost as if I'm driving on ice. 
>Is this my clutch? Do I need a fly-wheel adjustment?
>How much should this cost?
>Thank you much.
>
>Joe
> 


This is your clutch. It needs replacement. One trick about getting into
reverse when it doesn't want to go is to shift into first, then try re-
verse. If that fails, try shifting into first, letting out the clutch a bit,
and then dropping it into reverse....Works every time on my car.

Andy.

PLEASE EXCUSE MY OBVIOUS IGNORANCE.
From: chu@hanauma.jpl.nasa.gov (Eugene Chu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Re: T-bird engine for Mustang? (Was Re: SHO Engine for Probe)
Keywords: Mustang T-bird V6 Why not?
Date: 29 Sep 92 19:41:51 GMT
Article-I.D.: elroy.1992Sep29.194151.19572
Organization: SAR Systems Development & Processing, JPL

In article <BuoyvL.384@cs.dal.ca> smith@ug.cs.dal.ca (Sean Smith) writes:
>I'm sure that there's a market for people like me, who want a Mustang,
>find the 4 too wimpy and would probably kill themselves with 225 HP ... 
>I'd like to ease into it.
>
>	Sean

I think Ford is planning to drop the 4 cylinder Mustangs in 1993, and
replace it with a V6 of some form, either the 3.0 or 3.8 liter version.
The 3.8L was last offered in a Mustang in 1985, I think.  It's quite
capable, if my experience with it in a T-Bird was accurate.

eyc
-- 
>:<  Me:  Eugene Chu (Mr. Butterfly)        | Radar Science & Engineering  >:<
>:<  chu@hanauma.jpl.nasa.gov               | Jet Propulsion Laboratory    >:<
"T'is better to light a single candle than to curse the darkness"
But t'is so much easier to curse the darkness.
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: christyo@cae.wisc.edu (Buddy Christyono)
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Mitsubishi Galant question
Date: 2 Oct 92 18:56:36 GMT
Organization: U of Wisconsin-Madison College of Engineering

I have a 1991 Mitsubishi Galant GS equipped with 2.0L EFI DOHC engine,
power everything, 5sp. manual, 14" alloy wheels and Yokohama 379 195-65R14
tires. The questions are:
1. Does anyone drive this kind of car? If so, do you ever experience any
   notchy shifting and grabby clutch? My car's gears are difficult to 
   shift quickly especially from 3-2 and 2-1. Also it is difficult for me
   to shift smoothly since there is very little allowance in the clucth.
   if I lift my left foot a bit, the clutch already grabs and that causes
   some ejrking during shifting. I am told that these are problems from
   the design itself. The clutch is hydraulic and there is no adjustment.
   (these are from the Mitsubishi service personnel).
2. I hate the tires. Everytime I try to launch the car, the front tires 
   lose its grip and the front end veers (I think to the left). In the 
   rain, the front tires will squeal before the car goes, and sometimes
   the front end wobbles a few times before the car goes. I am sure the
   front tires just lose its grip. This happens far from maximum throttle,
   though. Even something like 2500-3000rpm will do. This bothers me a lot.
   I owned a Mitsubishi Cordia before, and it did not have this problem,
   not with its NITTO or Goodyear Corsa radials. My question: do you, net-
   ters have the same problem with this tire? Is it the tires that's the
   problem. Any suggestion for good tires? the wheels are 14x5.5, so I
   think I can only go to 195-width tire at most. I feel like going for
   205-50 tires, though.
Please send replies here or to me directly:
	buddy@optics.decnet
or	buddy%optics.decnet@vms.macc.wisc.edu

Buddy Christyono
ECE Dept. Univ. of Wisconsin-Madison
From: timd@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Tim Dasey )
Newsgroups: rec.autos
Subject: Want NISSAN Quest/ Mercury Villager Info....
Date: 30 Sep 92 15:32:10 GMT
Distribution: rec.autos
Organization: M.I.T. Lincoln Lab - Group 43

My wife and I have looked at purchasing the new NISSAN Quest (or Mercury Villager -
same car) minivan.  It seems to drive well, but there are a few questions I have:

-  Supply currently seems inadequate.  The assembly plant simply isn't putting 
them out fast enough yet.  Are there any indications that this is due to quality
problems, or just the usual slow startups?

-  Any opinions on the risk of buying the first year of a new model, before any
of the "bugs" are out?  I understand that the engine and many of the subsystems
are taken from the Maxima.

-  The brochure I got on the car is a little fuzzy about the warranty.  It says
a 3/36 bumper-to-bumper, but then later specifies a 1 yr. warranty on NISSAN
parts.  I told the salesman this implies to me that non-NISSAN parts were not
covered under the 3/36 warranty, or that the 3/36 only covered labor.  All he
could do was play the reassuring salesman (kept muttering "bumper-to-bumper).
Am I misunderstanding this?

Any other information on the Quest/Villager would be appreciated.

-- Tim

--
  -------------------------------------------------------------------
  Tim Dasey                    | Internet:         timd@ll.mit.edu
  MIT Lincoln Laboratory       | Office:           (617) 981-5991
  Weather Sensing - Group 43   | 
  -------------------------------------------------------------------
    
Newsgroups: rec.autos
From: mfolivo@sactoh0.sac.ca.us (Mark Newton-John)
Subject: Re: Right hand drive cars
Summary: Ordering one in US
Organization: Sacramento Public Access Unix
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 92 08:06:28 GMT


It is possible to order a right hand drive car in the US. No, not
one of those screwy US Postal Service Jeeps, but a Subaru Legacy.

Yes, a Legacy. But don't expect the top of the line model, they
have a special RHD model for use for rural postal carriers. For the
most part, I believe it was a basic Legacy, with the RHD from Japan
(I assume) intact. I doubt that the USPS, or postal carrier would
pay for a RHD AWD LS (got that?) model...


-- 
#############################################################
# Scaramento Public Access UNIX     sactoh0.SAC.CA.US       #  
#  (916) 649-0161, 722-6516 & 722-5068    E-Mail & USENET   #
################## default .signature file ##################
Xref: sparky rec.autos:22950 rec.autos.driving:5736
From: whs70@dancer.uucp (22501-sohl)
Newsgroups: rec.autos,rec.autos.driving
Subject: Re: NJ's Guv Jim says no to 65, was Re: speed limit
Date: 29 Sep 92 20:24:15 GMT
Distribution: usa
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ

In article <1992Sep29.181822.28330@watson.ibm.com> lpickup@vnet.ibm.com writes:
>In article <1992Sep29.155533.7838@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, whs70@dancer.uucp (22501-sohl) writes:
>...
>|>                                             Those that favor keeping
>|> it 55 rely on the old theory that if the everyone is driving 65 now when
>|> the limit is 55, then they will all go 75 if the limit is 65.  That
>|> has not proven to be the case at all in those states (over 40)
>|> that now have 65.
>...
>It hasn't??  Not that I'm against 65 or anything, but in the states
>that I've driven in which have 65 (mostly VT, NH and the states down
>the east coast: VA, NC, SC) people sure aren't going 65!

The average speed change has been about 1 to 2 mph.  Yes, folks still
go over 65, but not by 10-15mph as they have been with a 55mph limit.
Net result is that here in NJ, most folks drive between 65-70 when
conditions permit.  If you raise the legal limit to 65, most folks 
are NOT going to jump up to a speed of 75-80.

Standard Disclaimer- Any opinions, etc. are mine and NOT my employer's.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note - If email replying to me with an automatic addressing process
bounces, manually address the resend using one of the addresses below.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Sohl (K2UNK) BELLCORE (Bell Communications Research, Inc.)
Morristown, NJ             email via UUCP      bcr!dancer!whs70
201-829-2879 Weekdays      email via Internet  whs70@dancer.cc.bellcore.com