HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: drew@ophelia.cs.colorado.edu (Drew Eckhardt)
Subject: Re: Toyota Landcruiser
Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1992 07:59:38 GMT

In article <7750173@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> crs@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Charles Spillman) writes:
>> Mechanically the car's fine except for the speedo cable.  However,
>> I need some music in the thing.  The previous owner had installed a 
>> stereo, and I have speakers (2 6x9 ovals, and two cheap surface mounts)
>> but no place to stick them.
>> 
>Where did he find to put it?  The stereo in my '65 is laying on the floor.
>Of course, assuming yours is newer, some models actually had a dash.
>

<Snicker>  

It has a piece of Genuine Steel that goes from one side to the other,
with an instrument cluster on one side, assorted switches in the middle,
and a globe box on the other side.  There are foam pads on the 
top and bottom.

So, he cut away a small piece of the lower pad, cut a  square hole, 
drilled to round holes to match the stereo, and installed it there.  There's
a piece of black rubber cut to cover what the pad used to cover on the 
top and bottom of the faceplate, so it blends in and doesn't look like a 
growth.

It's in there good - blocked in with something on top, a bracket for 
a vent linkage (very attached to the firewall - it's for the vent 
between the hood and windshield), duct work on either side, and the
only way out is to pull the heater.

>> Summer configuration has to be a bikini top that barely keeps
>> the seats dry in a rain storm, and no doors.  
>> Not too many dry places to stick the speakers. 
>> 
>> So, where do people mount front and rear speakers in a landcruiser?
>> 
>> I was thinking of under the dash for the fronts, but the back speakers 
>> ought to be in back, behind the seats.  Wooden enclosures of some kind? 
>> 
>I'm considering the small enclosures rated for outdoor use.  Not great quality,
>but that helps solve the security problem :-).
>

I found a pair of cheap 6x9 enclosures, and discovered that the 3/4" 
web strabs I use to attach things on a frame pack work great for strapping
them to the landcruiser (It's hard to describe, but there's a 
long piece of metal connecting the roll bar and tube bracing the 
roll bar that has a few small web-strap thickness gapes between it and the 
wheel well) - they're real removeable, and might keep some water out. 

>> An ignition kill switch hidden under the dash or some other location
>> seems like a good idea - what have people done with this?
>> 
>I've seen one inside the glove compartment on a Land Cruiser.  The only 
>problem was when you had something heavy rolling around in there.  Life
>could get exciting in a hurry.

I'm sure.

-- 
Microsoft is responsible for propogating the evils it calls DOS and Windows, 
IBM for AIX (appropriately called Aches by those having to administer it), but neither is as bad as AT&T.  Boycott AT&T, and let them know how you feel.
From: jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us (Jeff Masterman)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Electrical Question: Mult
Date: 17 Aug 92 16:44:00 GMT
Reply-To: jeff.masterman@cutting.hou.tx.us (Jeff Masterman)
Organization: The Cutting Edge - Houston, TX - 713-466-1525

AES>Proposal: Install a heavy-duty (marine?) battery for the radio, plus
AES>an AB switch.  Drive to the site on the regular battery, then switch
AES>to the heavy-duty backup.  When it's time to drive home, switch back
AES>to the regular battery, start the truck, and drive home.  Recharge the
AES>heavy-duty battery either with a 110 V trickle charger at home, or by
AES>switching back to it after the engine is started.

AES>Any pitfalls in this? Will the truck's regular alternator and voltage
AES>regular (12 V) be able to charge the heavy-duty battery also without
AES>damage?  Are there other ways to do this?
There is a device called a battery isloator that is fairly inexpensive
and would not require any operator input (or mistakes). It seperates the
batteries during discharge but connects them during the charge cycle.
It is basically a heavy duty diode. I have seen plenty of them work.
---
 . OLX 2.2 . --T-A+G-L-I+N-E--+M-E-A+S-U-R+I-N-G+--G-A+U-G-E--
From: curtis@achilles.ctd.anl.gov (Jeffrey S. Curtis)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Tire speed ratings ?
Date: 14 Aug 92 19:19:08 GMT
Article-I.D.: mcs.1992Aug14.191908.9154
Organization: Argonne National Laboratory

In article <5415@naucse.cse.nau.edu>, met@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Millam Tackitt) writes:
|> NO, Do NOT assume this. An 'R' rated tire is the lowest rated tire they
|> make and a 'V' rated tire is one of the top [...]

Ummm.. "'R' rated tire" isn't a rating, it's a designation that the
tire is a (R)adial tire - maybe what you meant was the *lack* of a
designation before the 'R' means it's the lowest speed rating, and not
the 'R' itself.

Jeff
--
       Jeffrey S. Curtis         | Internet: curtis@anl.gov
Computing and Telecommunications | BITnet:   curtis at anlvm
  Argonne National Laboratory    | X.400:    /PN=Jeffrey.Curtis/O=olivia
        +1 708/252-5031          |           /PRMD=anl/ADMD= /C=US/
From: michaeln@hpcvnb.CV.HP.COM (Mike_Nason)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Vibration in drivetrain
Date: 23 Aug 92 08:39:22 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Co., Corvallis, Oregon

for what its worth my money is on the u-joint!  and if you do the installation
yourself, a good u-joint might run you 10-15 bucks. if you get it done in 
a gas station it'll run 20 for the joint and another 30 or so to get it done.
From: chrisp@regenmeister.Sun.COM (Chris Prael)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: '57 tr3 no engine go jap
Date: 13 Aug 1992 17:05:30 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA
NNTP-Posting-Host: regenmeister

From article <n06fet@ofa123.fidonet.org>, by Larry.Mc.Donald@ofa123.fidonet.org:
> 
>  saundersb@gtephx.UUCP (Bary Saunders) sez:
> 
>  > I have a '57 TR3 with no engine.
>  > I i thinking about putting a Toyota or Nissan drive
>  > train in it...
> 
>    Why not just buy a Toyota or a Nissan?
> 
>  > Has anyone out there done this?
>  > I have heard nothing but bad things about the
>  > original english tractor motor.
> 
>    Try talking to someone who actually owns one.

Good idea.  I don't know who Bary has been talking with about the TR-3
engine, but I would have to judge hir to be singularly uninformed.  Back
in the 60's when the TR-3 was a power in SCCA E-production, the engine
was reknown for its durability! The only component with a negative
reputation in racing was the transmission.  It wore out quickly in
racing.  Lee Midgely won a number of Pacific Division EP championships 
in a TR-3A.  The factory finally got tired of him blowing off the TR-4s, 
because that was their current product.  (THe guy who pulled the plug on
Midgely now manages the Nissan GTP effort.)
> 
>  > I love the lines of the car, but I'd like it to be reliable.
> 

That engine will be AT LEAST as reliable as you build it.  Hook up with
the nearest chapter of the TR club and learn what the engine wants and
needs.

Dropping another engine in the TR, whether of Japanese or other origin,
would be pointless and would screw up a great car.

Chris Prael
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk (Codesmiths)
Subject: Re: Rust protection spray??
Cc: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Reply-To: dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1992 22:33:48 +0000


>   I would like to find a good spray for rust protection.

Depends what you want to achieve; converting existing rust to
something more stable, or preventing non-rusty areas strating to
rust.

For existing rust, phosphoric acid will convert rust to black iron
phosphate, a good base for paint. You can buy this stuff off the
shelf as "Jenolite", but practically any commercial "rust eater" that
is pink coloured will contain it. It's much cheaper in bulk though -
I get mine in 5 gallon drums (but then I do have 2 Fiats & a Lancia)
for the price of 3 normal 1/2 litre bottles. Wirebrush the loose
stuff off first.

For continued protection, Waxoyl or similar is recommended. This is a
paraffin wax in a spirt solvent base, and is applied by a spray. It
only flows on a hot day, or after being stood in a bucket of hot
water, and the plastic sprayers are useless. I use a compressor &
paraffin/underseal spraygun with a long nozzle, but you can even
brush it on.  What you can't do is paint anywhere near this stuff has
been applied - steam clean it off first.


Neither of these magic sprays will work to preserve bare metal - that
needs paint, and not just a cosmetic topcoat either. I use Hammerite
or Smoothrite for covering rust spots until I have time to do them
properly - it works well as a single coat is long-term rustproof, but
it looks like shit.

          Andy Dingley    dingbat@cix.compulink.co.uk
From: larryf@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Larry Ferreira)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 17:46:36 GMT
Subject: Re: need Redline 800 number
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Rosa, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

In rec.autos.tech, wpc@po.CWRU.Edu (William P. Claspy) writes:


>  Could someone email me Redline's 800 number?  Couldn't find it on
>  the FAQ.

>  Thanks.
>  Bill


I copied this number for Redline Products from a previous post:

 1-800-529-8609


>  -- 
>  William Claspy			Case Western Reserve University
>  Internet- wpc@po.cwru.edu
>  MaBellnet- (216) 368-3595
From: sford@arrl.org (Steve Ford)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Stiff stick -- '85 Colt
Date: 12 Aug 92 09:17:11 EDT
Organization: American Radio Relay League


I own a 1985 Plymouth Colt (manual transmission) that's developed an
odd problem. The stick occasionally becomes very stiff for no
apparent reason. It shifts into the gates easily enough, but you
practically need two hands to move it left or right. This problem
will manifest itself for a few days and then disappear. Weeks later,
it's back!

Any ideas?

Steve
 .
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: tedebear@leland.Stanford.EDU (Theodore Chen)
Subject: Re: Gasoline in diesel engines....
Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 92 03:36:18 GMT


with the kind of compression that diesels achieve, we're talking
major detonation.  maybe aviation fuel might be ok.
you'll probably wind up with holes in your pistons.  or maybe
your heads will go flying through the hood.
-teddy
From: jtu@berlioz.nsc.com (James Tu)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: New type of belt?
Date: 12 Aug 92 17:11:54 GMT
Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation

I just got my alternator belt replaced and the new belt doesn't look like an
ordinary belt.  The inside part of it was notched on purpose.  They were sort
of semi-circular notches.  Is this a new type of belt which increases traction?

It's sort of the belt world's version of the ping-pong paddle with the tiny
studs to increase the control or spin.
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com (Kevin Brown)
Subject: Re: Help needed  '84 Celica GT
Keywords: celica
Organization: I can't see any in the immediate vicinity...
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1992 22:54:53 GMT

In article <BsutpM.3pD@news.udel.edu> iseman@chopin.udel.edu (Stephen Early) writes:
>In article <1992Aug10.151232.22214@sunstone.uucp> george@sunstone.UUCP (George Vogel) writes:
>>My problem:
>>
>>I have a 1984 Toyota Celica GT that my wife drives (no, that's not the
>>problem :) and it's been a great little car until a year ago when she was
>>involved in a minor accident.  It was hit in the front.
>>
>The problem we have now is that it
>>runs very hot, and will overheat if driven on a hot day.  I changed the
>>thermostat and radiator cap (which is the extent of my mechanical abilities), 
>>but it didn't seem to have any effect.  What else can I check/fix/have-fixed?
>>
>
>Probably have a damaged radiator from the front end hit.  I'd replace it.

I wouldn't.  At least, not until I knew that it was the culprit.

Any decent radiator shop should be able to pressure-test your radiator.  If
it leaks, they can usually fix it.

If they can't fix it, they can probably replace the core for less than the
cost of a new radiator.

Radiators are fragile enough that you might have problems finding a used one
in good shape...

>Steve


-- 
				Kevin Brown

			    kevin@nuchat.sccsi.com
			    kevin@taronga.taronga.com
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: dye@i88.isc.com (Ken R. Dye )
Subject: Re: Rear-end Bearings
Keywords: auto, repair
Organization: INTERACTIVE Systems Corporation, Naperville, IL
Distribution: usa
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1992 22:08:21 GMT

In article <1992Aug12.102939.11540@brtph560.bnr.ca> mjsutton@bnr.ca (Michael Sutton P025) writes:
>In article <1992Aug11.221947.18634@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, jimo@navaho.uucp (25656-o'keefe) writes:
>|> 
>|> Advice please...
>|> 
>|> I have a 87 Chevy G20 Van with a bad rear-end bearing.  The symptoms
>|> are that I hear and feel a rumbling sound from the rear of the van
>|> from 45 MPH and above.  I isolated it to the passenger side rear
>|> wheel by running the van in drive with the wheel raised.  In that

>I've done work on the rear wheel bearings in my 81 Datsun several times.
>In my case the bearings are not pressed in, therefore no special tool is
>needed.  The outer bearing simply falls out after I take the
>brake drum off of the hub.  The inner bearing is kept from falling out by
>a grease seal.  I simply remove the old seal and after replacing the
>bearing carefully drive in the new one with a wooden block and a hammer.

	Totally different than the GM RWD setup.  They have a
permanently sealed bearing that is pressed onto the axle.  This
unfortunatly cost $40 to replace 10 years ago; how much did this
end up costing you, jim?

--Ken
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: arup+@cs.cmu.edu (Arup Mukherjee)
Subject: Re: Color Match - Bullsh*t
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 92 19:56:45 GMT
Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon

In article <Bsvs7t.B5y@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca> white@watsci.waterloo.edu (Brad White) writes:
>In article <fagundes.713633188@vincent1.iastate.edu> fagundes@iastate.edu (Alex Fagundes) writes:
>>Hi,
>>  I recently tried this color match crap on my 76 Mavery and the front of
>>my car now looks like trash!  Appearently this stuff does not work at all
>
>I also bought this on tv, however for me it worked well.  

I tried this stuff too - bought it at a Thrift Drug for about $9... doubtless
there is some informercial that would have convinced me not to buy the junk
as it says "as seen on tv"... I have a black car (non-clearcoat): From certain
angles the car looks nice and shiny, from other angles, you can see streaks
all over the car (and no amount of buffing would get rid of them). 

Avoid the stuff unless you've got lots of minor scratches you want to fill
or something... For about half the price, the results are MUCH better with
Nu-Finish.

-Arup

From: Steve.Kaess@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Steve Kaess)
Sender: Uucp@blkcat.UUCP
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: reliable cars
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 01:19:41 -0500

 >
 > I am graduating from school and am interested in purchasing
 > a small reliable car
 > - preferably hatchback.
 >
 > Do you have recommendations of cars to consider buying
 > and cars to consider NOT
 > buying.
new cars --good
ford escort
saturn sl, sl1(not a hatch)
nissan stanza(not a hatch)
dodge/plymouth colt/mitsu mirrage/eagle something or other--all the 
same very reliable car
vw golf
ok
toyota tercell(too expensive
chevy cavilear(old design, but reliable and has anti lock brakes
mazda 323(prety nice)
mercury tracer-0-good--a nice car-I just did not think of it before
avoid
hyundai   poor quality parts, but a nice car--not quite as long lived 
as better models, dealers are all people who were kicked out of the 
arab bazzar for unethical business practices
yugo--no spares anymore(or sadly people who can make them)
In used cars I highly recomend the vw golf, the 90 or newer escort/
 
merc tracer, the colt under it's many names, the chevy cav.--just 
87 or so up--a good buy but not the best car in the class, and if 
you can streatch a bit a saab 900--a super car--just have a dealer 
check it out before you buy...good luck!!
From: georgej@gtephx.UUCP (Jefferson George)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Help needed  '84 Celica GT
Keywords: celica
Date: 19 Aug 92 20:42:36 GMT
Organization: AG Communication Systems - Phoenix, AZ

In article <1992Aug10.151232.22214@sunstone.uucp>, george@sunstone.UUCP (George Vogel) writes:
> My problem:
> 
> I have a 1984 Toyota Celica GT that my wife drives (no, that's not the
> problem :) and it's been a great little car until a year ago when she was
> involved in a minor accident.  It was hit in the front.
> 
> Our local Toyota dealer did an excellent job with the body work; no engine
> work was required (or so we thought).  The problem we have now is that it
> runs very hot, and will overheat if driven on a hot day.  I changed the
> thermostat and radiator cap (which is the extent of my mechanical abilities), 
> but it didn't seem to have any effect.  What else can I check/fix/have-fixed?
> 
> In the past we could run the A/C on the hottest of days, and the temp. gauge
> would never budge from the halfway mark.  Also, it leaks a little coolant
> after being driven (first time it's ever dripped _anything_).
> 
> Any ideas? 
> 
Wow, What a coincidence, my wife's 84 Celica has the same problem.  It also
had body work done on the front end too!  I did the same stuff u did and
changed the water, changed the hose with new clamps.  I did find a leak
from the radiator.  The problem went away for awhile after using a sealer but
the leak is back again.  A friend suggest that my head gasket might be broken,
but I do not know to confirm this...  Any ideas.


-- 
Jefferson George                                    
AG Communication Systems, Phoenix, Arizona 
Inet: gtephx!georgej@enuucp.eas.asu.edu   
UUCP: {ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!georgej 
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: ibe@world.std.com (ira b ekhaus)
Subject: Re: SURVEY: Home mech's favs>> newer cars and computer gizmos
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1992 01:55:36 GMT

hello,

While my car (an 82 buick skylark that I'd never recommend) was being
diagnosed I ran into a sales engineer for the test equipment (sun).
He made the point that if you have a PC, a $200 dollar device can give
you a very sophisticated home device for diagnosing the newer cars.
In my own case, a previous mechanic was insistent on a timing gear
change, while the electronic diagnosis (along with an honest mechanic)
disagreed with.

Eventually , states will not allow the older. simpler cars on the
road.  The DIYer's will have to confront the newer technology.  The
self reliant, computer literate crowd on rec.autos.tech seems to be a
good place to start this thread.  So..

How useful are these devices,  any first hand experiences?
Which brands are available and whose are best?
Can you rent these devices (would the AAA consider renting these)?

thanks,
ira
ekhaus
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: edhresko@hresko.EOS.NCSU.EDU (ERIC DAVID HRESKO)
Subject: Re: international scout advice wanted
Originator: edhresko@c00562-1403br.eos.ncsu.edu
Reply-To: edhresko@eos.ncsu.edu
Organization: Techno-Geeks Inc.
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1992 15:31:36 GMT



What to look for in a Scout:
	345 V8
	Torqueflite 727 3 speed automatic  TC-407 is the IH designation(I think)
	Dana 20 2 speed transfer case
	Should have Dana 44 front and rear axles.
	
I bought a '77 with rust for 1350, so 2K for no rust is great.  

As to the locations for parts, you are in luck.  Many manufacturers make 
aftermarket parts, like urethane bushings, etc.  If you need actual Scout Parts,
then check out Superscout Specialists or Giddum Up Scout.  I do not have their
addresses or phone #'s with me, but they advertise in the back of every 
Petersens Offroad and 4Wheeling.  They have a great selection of parts 
and other goodies.  If you have any other questions, please ask.  Enjoy!

	Eric
-- 


Eric

******************************************************************************
Eric Hresko		* Mail:  edhresko@eos.ncsu.edu                       * 
Kanki House of Steaks   * Voice: (why would you want to call?) 1-919-821-5168*
Dishwasher 2nd Class    * HK Rules!!! (But a FAL will do in a pinch)         *
DISCLAIMER:  I don't wear sandals, eat granola, or tiptoe thru the Tulips    *
******************************************************************************
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
From: pebrier@srv.PacBell.COM (Paul Brierley)
Subject: Natural Gas Power - Good or Bad???
Followup-To: rec.autos.tech
Originator: pebrier@boulder
Organization: Pacific * Bell
Distribution: na
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1992 16:22:06 GMT



I have a question for the wisdom of the net:

My father has been eagerly looking into buying a new diesel pickup (probably
a 1-ton extended cab for pulling a 5th wheel trailer), but keeps delaying
because each maker seems to keep coming out with a "better" diesel engine.

Now he has heard that Chevy is coming out with a Natural Gas truck, and
he is very interested in it.  Being ignorant to this technology, we'd 
sure like to hear about all the plusses and minuses.

- Is it cheaper to run?
- How does the engine run?  More or less power?
- Is it cleaner (i.e. exhaust, oil changes, etc.)?
- Can you get refills during a long road trip?  Or should he get one
     	that can run on gasoline as a backup?
- For a price, he can set up a filling station from his home gas service.
    	This takes a long time, but should be cheaper.


Any other info you can fill us in on?  Please e-mail to me, as I don't
always have time to check the net.  And thanks a million in advance
for helping us out!  I've told my Dad what a great resource the net 
is - now's my chance to show him.

Paul Brierley
pebrier@srv.pacbell.com
510.823.4870
-- 
---  Paul Brierley				Pacific*Bell      --
---  pebrier@srv.pacbell.com			San Ramon, Calif. --
From: ggg@hpsad.sad.hp.com (Gary Goodlund)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1992 16:50:47 GMT
Subject: Re: Gasoline in diesel engines....
Organization: HP Signal Analysis Division - Rohnert Park, CA
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech

Hi John,

  In a word..."DON'T!!" :-)

My mother-in-law made that mistake in their VW Rabbit Diesel sedan and it
made about five miles down the road.  It probably only made it that far
because there was enough diesel fuel still in the tank to dilute the gas
somewhat.  If I remember what my father-in-law said, the damage included
holed pistons and a cracked head.  I do remember that he got rid of the
car instead of fixing it.

Bye for now,
 Gary
From: rmrin@cbnewsk.cb.att.com (r.m.rickert)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
Subject: Re: Strange Taurus problem. (update)
Date: 14 Aug 92 18:42:37 GMT
Article-I.D.: cbnewsk.1992Aug14.184237.14131
Distribution: na
Organization: AT&T

In article <shaver.712869553@convex.convex.com> shaver@convex.com (Dave Shaver) writes:
>I wrote:
>> I have a 1987 Ford Taurus with 106K miles on it.  In the last few
>> months I've been having an annoying problem with it.  The first symptom
>> was the starter engaging and turning over the engine, but the engine
>> not starting.  [...]  I eventually figured out that I did not need to
>> wait the 30 minutes at all.  If I pump the gas a few times, it starts
>> right up.
My wife just bought a Sable and in the owner's manual it says that if you 
disconnect the battery (did you?) to let the car idle for a minute after 
starting so the computer can relearn the proper settings.

Does anyone know whether this is true for GM cars also?

-- 

Dick Rickert  AT&T Consumer Products Laboratory
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech