HDTenEightyP/NetNews huggingface dataset:
From: gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov (gary preckshot)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: H&A No. 1 bandsaw
Date: 22 Jan 93 20:40:12 GMT
Organization: LLNL

In article <4320141@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
> 
> cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill) writes:
                        ^^^^^^
> This is probably a babbit bearing.  The way this works is the bronze stuff,
> which is actually a specific alloy called "Babbit" is melted down and poured
> into the bearing so that it mates exactly with the part that turns, in this
> case, probably the wheel shaft.

Hogwash!  Bronze is an alloy of tin and copper and looks "bronze".  Babbit is
an alloy of tin and lead and (suprise) looks like lead.  Bronze bearing
sleeves are a common bearing used in less-expensive tools.  Nowadays, babbit
is only used in applications like large generator or machine bearings and
automobile crankshaft and rod bearings.  It used to be used in railroad
car brasses, but the advent of roller bearings changed that.

Automobile bearings are kind  of a special case, since they consist (usually)
of a thin steel shell faced inside with bronze or copper.  A thin layer of
babbit is coated onto the copper and a badly worn automotive bearing will look
"bronze" on the inside because all of the babbit is worn away.  This is not
true for poured babbit bearings.

>>  Is is feasible to replace
> >these bearings?  What's involved?

Yes.  If the shaft isn't worn, you can get a replacement bronze sleeve from
your local bearing supply.  You find bearing supply stores in industrial
areas or farming areas, for obvious reasons.  Dimensions available are
usually the standard inch fractions, and shell thicknesses are usually 1/16,
1/8, or 3/16.  You'll need to push out the original and measure.  The shells
are usually 0.001 to 0.003 oversize for a press fit.  You have to ream
the pressed-in shell to size to fit your shaft, even if you also fabricate
a new shaft.

If the shaft is worn, you need either to replace the shaft with one you or
somebody else makes or *grind* the current shaft undersize.  Often, you can
find drill rod of the right diameter, and it's already ground to a smooth
surface.  Then it's just a matter of cutting to length, installing some
shoulder spacers and retainers (depending on how your original shaft is
held captive).

> 
> To restore these bearings, you take melt down the babbit and add a little
> new babbit (to compensate for the wear) and then pour it into the bearing.
> There is an excellent article on this in one of the Fine Woodworking
> condensations.  I will look for it at home.
> 
> 

Nonsense, as posted above.  If it don't look like lead, it ain't babbit.

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: jrm@cbnews.cb.att.com (john.r.miller)
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Organization: AT&T
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 20:41:07 GMT
Summary: delta tablesaw

In article <4320137@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
> millios@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (william.l.millios) writes:
> >In article <1993Jan13.224536.7933@hpcvusn.cv.hp.com> kam@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com writes:
> 
>   The "Cabinet" saw mentioned above, for $900, is, I believe, the Delta
>   "Tilting Arbor" Saw, which is listed by Tools-On-Sale for $935.
>   This saw does not sit on legs, but the base is entirely enclosed,
>   and the extensions are solid cast iron, not painted grey stamped steel.
> 
As a followup, does any know the differances between Delta's Contractor's
saw, cabinet saw and Unisaw? The cabinet saw looks a lot like a Unisaw --
I just wonder if it is the same inside.

			John Miller
From: pollack@dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu (Jordan B Pollack)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
Date: 25 Jan 1993 12:30:58 -0500
Organization: Ohio State Computer Science
Reply-To: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: dendrite.cis.ohio-state.edu
In-reply-to: HUNTRESS GARY B's message of Fri, 22 Jan 1993 11:59:00 EST

Second child is due next month and most of the nursery has been done,
but I have managed a couple of projects slowly in the last 6 months:

1.  A child's fantasy bookcase (so the baby gets old toybox with
shelf): 48 by 33 with 4 shelves (2 moveable), with veined and painted
figures of Babar and Celeste on the sides, and a yellow "Crown"
molding. Made with expensive Weyerhauser prejointed Poplar, finished
with Watco dark walnut.

2. Changing-table-top for a pink lacquered oriental-style cabinet,
simply a 17  by 35 by 5"  dowelled frame with a 1/8 masonite
support. Made of left over poplar and watco finish from #1. 

3. Nursery Clock: Pine, 17" diameter, 7" hands, in the shape of a
smiling sun with 12 points of fire (using CAD). A Funny thing happened
during this project. The Cherry Hill non-toxic toy paint didn't look
very good over the pine. I tried a second, and third coat, to no avail.
I was about to strip it and prime it when I sanded with a finishing
sander/220 grit, and wasted one strip of sandpaper to get a
brilliantly smooth and bright finish. 

The next several hours of free time will involve retrofitting a 30"
unifence to the cheapest delta saw, the noisy 34-670. Anybody else
attempt this?  I can tell already that drilling the 7/16th holes 1.125
below the tabletop will require some cleverness. I know I should sell
the motorized saw and just get a better saw, but there is no room for
a 27" table plus a hang-out motor in my micro shop...







-- 
Jordan Pollack                            Assistant Professor
CIS Dept/OSU                              Laboratory for AI Research
2036 Neil Ave                             Email: pollack@cis.ohio-state.edu
Columbus, OH 43210                        Phone: (614)292-4890 (then * to fax)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Subject: Re: Cutting plexiglass
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1993 03:30:23 GMT

In article <1993Jan22.111139.1276@mala.bc.ca>
wagner@mala.bc.ca writes:
 
>In article <dubin.727550682@spot.Colorado.EDU>, Mark W. Dubin writes:
>> With regards to cutting plexiglass:
>>
>> The obvious problems are chipping and melting due to heating from
 
>I cut both aluminum and plexi on both my chop saw and my table saw by a liberal
>application of bees wax.  I get mine in a cardboard tube from my fine woods sup-
>plier.  I use a hollow ground "fire tooth" plywood blade.  (it's also useful for
>the bandsaw as I find it keeps the blade from jamming on tight radiuses).  Just
>start the unit and rub it on the sides of the blade.  Cut a little into the tube
>to fill the teeth and cut away.  Seems to keep chips clearing and keep heat down
>at the same time (By aluminum, I don't mean sheets, only bar and other stocks).
>--
A couple of years ago, I needed to rip some square aluminum
tubing and used my circular saw with a (non-ferous) metal                       =
cutting blade.  Had problems at first due to heat build up.                     a
I didn't have anything better at hand, so I used candle wax to
lubricate the blade...take a 12" long candle, hold it at one end,
and briefly touch the other to the spinning blade every foot                    )
or so of cutting.  Worked for me (and I still have all my fingers).
 
..Richard E+17
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Secret compartments WAS Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
From: <XID@psuvm.psu.edu>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 11:14:58 EST
Organization: Penn State University

In article <C19otJ.Cr4@icon.rose.hp.com>, billt@core.rose.hp.com (Bill Thomas)
says:
>Does anyone know of any sources of designs, plans, and ideas with hidden
>compartments?
There was a good article in Fine Woodworking, Jan/Feb '89 (no. 74),
p. 42-46.  It showed various ways to do false bottoms and false backs
in drawers, secret compartments behind desk pigeonholes, hollow posts
in bed frames, trays under tables, spaces in tops and bottoms of
cabinets, and secret doors in the back of built-in cabinets.  Definitely
worth a look.

David Glick    xid@psuvm.psu.edu
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:44:40 -0600
From:         Jeff Roberts <JROBERTS@UTDALLAS.BITNET>
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....
              22 Jan 1993 10:59:00 -0600 from <HUNTRESS@NPT.NUSC.NAVY.MIL>

On Fri, 22 Jan 1993 10:59:00 -0600 HUNTRESS GARY B said:
...............................  Well, I'd like to start a new
>thread:..................

 <stuff deleted>

O.K. you talked me into it,

I've been really big into saving money (or rather, not spending it) so I do
alot of garbage picking and here's my latest find:

I rescued a 6 drawer dresser from a friends shed, complete with water damage,
tons ofmouse turds, and even a whole mouse nest!  It was ugly, had really
 gaudy
hardware and the top looked like a banana....made from something that wasn't
wood.  Unwanted drawer movement was about .5 to 1 inch (any direction you
want).  Yep, this was a raise the titanic project.  I tore off all the frilly
stuff and got the internals back in order.  I then went to the back yard to
the "old used fence wood" pile, (previously scavenged....of course) and layed
out a design that incorportated the fence wood and some old 1 by pine that
had been scavenged (never buy what you can get for free) and glued and nailed
it right over the outside of the existing carcass.  BTW our house is
decorated in Santa Fe style so ruff fence etc. looks completely natural.  I
attacked the pine with a draw knife and left is ruff looking, carved some
"bullets" into the pine drawer faces.  I now have to make a cradle for
the whole thing (out of scavenged 2 x 4 that will be draw knifed).  Cradles(?)
are used to lift Santa Fe style trunks off the ground....so you just gotta
 have
that.  I'll use scavenged horse shoes bent at a little less than 90 deg. for
the pulls (aleady have them)..

Wife's reaction when I first brought the dresser home:  Hmmmmm

Wife's reaction as the project progresses:  WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO DONE WITH MY
                                            NEW DRESSER!!

Total out of pocket expenses:  About 10-15 bucks give or take (gas, nails,
 glue
                               finish etc.)


Jeff "That ain't junk, it's good stuff"  Roberts JROBERTS@UTDALLA
From: davek@informix.com (David Kosenko)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: How do I start with $500?
Date: 25 Jan 93 04:28:00 GMT
Organization: Informix Software, Inc.

David Burris writes:
>I've used circular
>saws that would not cut straight. Sometimes it was the blade, sometimes
>it was the saw itself. Try a new blade first. If your saw can't cut
>straight, it ain't much good. Then again, some skill is involved in
>making a straight, true cut.Practice makes perfect, or something like
>that.

In this case, I disagree.  You will NEVER get a straight and true *freehand*
cut from a circular saw, I don't care how goot it and/or the blade is.

Now, with the addition of an inexpensive straightedge guide, you can make
wonderfully straight and true cuts with your circular saw without a whole
lot of skil ;-).

Dave
-- 
Disclaimer: These opinions are not those of Informix Software, Inc.
**************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
 but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date:         Sun, 24 Jan 1993 22:53:23 EST
From:         Jim Morgan <JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET>
Subject: Re: Hey! Lets have a survey....

>Posted on 22 Jan 1993 at 12:12:41 by HUNTRESS GARY B
>
> ... I'd like to start a new
>thread:  I'd like to hear about the projects that everyone is
>working on, just finished, or is planned for the future.
>
Excellent idea, Gary!

     I have just finished (well, maybe I'll put on another coat of Watco in
another week) a semi-elliptical pier table made of quarter-sawn sycamore which
I bought in Illinois last summer and carted back to Rhode Island.  This table
is similar to one built by Bill Clinton(!) featured in FWW a couple years ago,
except that instead of turned legs, I used tapered spade foot Adam-style legs.
I think the piece looks more interesting with both curvilinear and rectilinear
components.

     Before that, I built a bird's-eye maple & ebony cradle for my 2-year-
old's babies; it might get pressed into alternative service if she has a
sibling sometime.

     Before that, I spent several months adding a bathroom, complete with
a custom ceramic shower (I originally wanted to build a bathtub, but the
required 4-1/2 inch thick concrete sidewalls would have been too much
weight for our 3rd floor).

     Next up: a pair of serpentine front QS oak nightstands, to complement
a serpentine front oak dresser my wife refinished several years ago.


Jim Morgan
Brown University
From: norm@strobe.ATC.Olivetti.Com (Norm Carpenter x3055)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: NYW bashing; was 'HOMETIME'
Date: 26 Jan 93 23:03:09 GMT

: 
: He has, believe it or not, 9 routers in the New Yankee Workshop.
: 
: Draw your own conclusions.
: 
: Bill
: (who wishes he had Norm's subsidies)

I understand,  from a seminar he gave here,  that he gets his routers
from the different companies for free (just so they can get their
labels on TV).  He says he has so many now,  he doesn't ever change
bits,  he just picks a different router off the shelf.

Norm

*******************************************************************************
norm@oliveb.OLIVETTI.COM

                 "Watch this space." -- Acme Advertising
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: ameres@ithaca.cat.rpi.edu (Eric Ameres)
Subject: Re: Will glue hold joint?
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, NY
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1993 15:39:13 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.204306.11390@data-io.com> ricko@Data-IO.COM (Rick OBrien) writes:
>
>My question is on how to connect the rails and stiles to ensure a strong 
>joint. Currently, I'm planning on getting a rail and stile set of router
>bits to cut an ogee and a short (about 1/2 inch) stub tenon on the inside
>of the rail with the complimentary mortise on the stile. I'll glue up the
>joint and drive two brads into the tenon from the back of the door. This
>appears to be how the non-custom cabinets I've seen in stores are made.
>
>Will this joint be strong enough for normal use, or would a couple of dowels
>in each joint be better?
>

  I have been in the same exact situation and here's how things
proceeded.

  First, I thought I'd go with the cope and cove method you describe.
I bought matching rail and stile cutters for the moulding head I've
got for my radial arm saw.  Cutting the sticking worked just fine, but
the "tenon" on the end of the rails turned out to be a nightmare.
Because of the narror width (~2") of the rails, I was consistently
creating alot of expensive firewood.  I tried putting a miter slot in
my table and using a miter gauge (later with clamp) and things got
better but not perfect.  Tear out was also a problem and after reading
in FWW about how this joint is the weakest but "easiest" I decided to
look elsewhere.

  Second try, dowels.  As a concept this was great. Plenty strong.
Withought a good doweling jig (in my opinion, should be optimized for
edge joining) the results were horendous.  Alignment was a nightmare.
Progress went very slow and any bit of twist/warp in the wood was
amplified.  One good door resulted plus more expensive firewood.  Exit
dowels.

  After reading the FWW article (this month's), I knew mortise and
tenon was the way to go but with 23 doors ahead of me and no mortising
contraption to help I turned to the wisdom of my "Complete Manual of
Woodworking" and found "corner bridle" or finger joints!  This is
basically a through motise and tenon with an open bottom.  Because
it's open on the bottom I could cut the "mortises" with my dado
(horizontal in the radial arm saw).  The tenons were more or less
straightforward.  

Since the cuts are all done with the peices flat on the table, it
downplays the straightness of the wood a bit.  The joints seem VERY
strong (lots of long grain glue area).  This method also seems to be a
lot quicker at producing good results.

Anyway, that's what I'm doing until I gat a real mortising chisel
drill attachment doo-hickey and a drill-press.

Eric.

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Eric Ameres,  Software Engineer                 ameres@cat.rpi.edu
New York State Center for Advanced Technology in Automation & Robotics
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute - CII 8313, Troy, NY 12180-3590
From: sjc@cs.purdue.edu (Steve Chapin)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: workbench height
Date: 28 Jan 1993 17:11:42 -0500
Organization: Department of Computer Sciences, Purdue University
Distribution: usa
	<1993Jan28.160804.9457@cbfsb.cb.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bredbeddle.cs.purdue.edu
In-reply-to: mcarey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com's message of Thu, 28 Jan 1993 16:08:04 GMT

}} In article <1993Jan28.160804.9457@cbfsb.cb.att.com> mcarey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (michael.e.carey) writes:
}} 
}} In addition,
}} I am thinking of having a bench that is about 24" high to use as
}} an assembly area for larger projects.  Has anyone ever had a use
}} for a very low bench?  I am fairly new at this an can be talked out
}} of the low bench if net wisdom insists.  Most of my work has been done
}} on benches 30-32" in hight and I have used a make-shift bench with
}} saw-horses because at times, the 30" bench was to high.

I'll have to check on the height, but I got a great assembly bench for
a song a couple of years ago.  It used to belong to a clockmaker, and
it's big enough (4' x 10') to lay out a full grandfather clock with
all the parts for assembly.

The sucker has a 2" thick oak top, and I got it through an ad in the
paper for < $100.  Now, moving it in a few months is going to be a
thrill :-)

sjc@cs.purdue.edu                 Steve Chapin                 ...!purdue!sjc
    loose == set free; lose == misplace, or fail to win, gain, or obtain
         their is possessive; there is a place; they're == they are

       "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of
       human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full
                 well he will never sit."  (Elton Trueblood)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: badboy@netcom.com (Jay Keller)
Subject: Re: Finishing Redwood
Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services  (408 241-9760 guest) 
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 08:53:36 GMT

In article <1993Jan26.204053.5445@cbnewsj.cb.att.com> 
hope@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (edward m.hope) writes:

>I built several picnic tables out of redwood this summer. When I bought
>the wood it was black looking so I planed everything down. The wood 
>looked great, bright red. I sealed them with Thompsons water seal and
>they looked great for a few months but now are turning black again.
>
>Does anyone on the net have any suggestions for a sealer/clear finish
>for redwood. It must also be for outside use. I have several requests
>for more picnic tables for this spring and I would like to keep that 
>redwood look.

I am also interested in this.  I built the kids a beautiful sandbox last summer
out of gorgeous redwood - I waited until I had collected enough boards with
combination heart- and sapwood so the boards are all beautifully striped.
So far I've given it 3 or 4 generous coats of linseed oil, covered it during
heavy rains, and it still looks great after 6 months.  I want to build a
picnic table to match, but I'm sure it won't get covered in the rain (we don't
get rain in the summer around here), and I'm wondering if the linseed oil is
going to work.  I am willing to re-oil it a few times a year if that will
keep it looking good.

Regards,

Jay Keller
Sunnyvale, California
badboy@netcom.com


Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
From: patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r)
Subject: Re: Hardwood Floor repair
Organization: Bellcore, Livingston, NJ
Distribution: rec
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 93 01:05:00 GMT
Keywords: hardwood floors

In article <1993Jan21.215016.11711@acuson.com> worth@acuson.com (Douglas Worth) writes:

>- One of the previous owners decided that they did not like part of 
>the hardwood floor and glued linoleum (sp?) down to it. What would be
>the best way to get it off?

Since you're refinishing the floor anyway, anything goes. The older glues
can be disolved with mineral spirits. If it's a latex compound, you'll
just have to scrape it up; applying enough water to disolve the glue will
probably wreck the wood.

>- In the water damaged part one of the boards is split length wise
>for about 16". We put as much weight (I knew there was a reason to
>keep all of those text books) as we could on the other parts. We are
>expecting to replace some of the boards in this section. The floor is
>2" oak strip and I do not think that it is tongue and groove because
>there is lots of nails in it. Is it possible to do patch work like this
>or are we crazy? After we repair the damaged section we are planning to 
>sand and refinish it. My boss recently did his so I do have someone with
>some experience who can help.  

Even if it *is* tongue and groove, you can replace the board. Check with
building salvage yards to see if you can find an exact match. To get the
old board out, use a circular saw. Set the depth of the blade to the
thickness of the board (probably 3/4") and cut along the length of the
board along both sides just inside the crack. Use a good wood chisel to
split the thing up and pry it out. You can also make lots of saw cuts
until it just comes to pieces, or use a router and chew it up. You now
have a hole in the flooring with a tongue in the board on one edge and
a groove in the board of the other.

Cut a replacement piece of tongue and groove and test fit it. When it's
ready to install, rip the bottom of the board off along the inside of
the groove -

Before -

        _____________________
       |___                  |___
        ___|                  ___|
       |_____________________|

After -

        _____________________ 
       |___                  |___
           |                  ___|
           |_________________|

Now put the tongue of the new board in place, and drop the other end down.
You might want to glue this board in; otherwise, use finishing nails,
countersink them, and fill the holes.

Before cutting, make *absolutely sure* that there is a subfloor (cause
that's all that will hold this thing together. One of my rooms is carpeted
because there's a broken board in the middle and there's no subfloor.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
                    | I was told that the best defense is a good
George Patterson -  | offense, so I made up my mind early in life
                    | to be as offensive as possible.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan)
Subject: Re: Hock or other replacement blades
Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 15:38:19 GMT

BBHULSEY@LIFE.UAMS.EDU ("Wile E. Coyote") writes:
: 
: Where did you get your Hock iron?  The only place I've seen them advertised is
: in Woodcraft's mail order catalog.  I'd like to shop around to find a good
: price.

In Albuquerque, Woodworker's Supply.  Otherwise, mail order is probably
your best bet.  I haven't seen a tremendous variation in price in the
catalogs.
-- 
Jon R. Bryan	(505) 844-2015	<=>	bryan@isrc.sandia.gov
Sandia National Laboratories, Intelligent System Sensors and Controls
 
From: gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1993 21:40:20 GMT
Subject: Re: How do I start with $500?
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server